The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-27

A
 after period of history to
 A1 achieve the modes of the mo- ment. It is a curious but altogether fascinating hodge-podge of styles and who can say, at this stage. what will prevail? There is hint of the stately Directoire in redingotes and hats; a soupcon of Victorian demureness in some of the little gray gowns of spring; lovely Vatican effects in dance frocks. dashing and coquettish reminders of costume ideals of the beautiful Eugenie when as Empress, she set the styles of Europe. The couturiers, themselves, seem to be at odds. Lanvin has become enamored of the flamboyant Spanish type and her Spanish dance frocks are positive ly thrilling in their splendor of color with artful subduing of black tulle and lace. Poiret, again the self-ap- pointed apostle of the mode and an important factor in the fashions of spring, is all for Breton peasant eff fects-effects of fifty years ago rather than now when even the folk of Brit tany are spelling their picturesque dress with modern innovations in the way of ready made raiment from the y, lifted high at the hips; Callot makes alI draperies take the long lines advo- cated by this house. Premet and Jenny follow the wind of the mode as it bloweth. Their frocks are always chic and always charming, replete with originality and that prettiness that appeals to the feminine soul, but lacking in the subtler meanings and purposes which more serious cou- turters sometimes try to incorporate in their creations.
 Silk For the Spring Frock.
 There is reason apart from caprice of the mode, which makes silk woven materials so exclusively fashionable this spring. Paris can get silk a-plenty-and she cannot get much else; so perforce, silk a-plenty goes into the new froclzs. Almost all the silk mills are busy, for the war has not invaded their territory; but fine cotton-woven stuffs and worsted- woven stuffs are scarce and the couturiers have compromised with necessity by making tailored suits half wool and half silk, and adding bands of cloth, here and there, to chiffon frocks-just to strike an even balance.
 Silks in Paris mean silks here; so the spring afternoon frock Is of silk. And after all, what else should 0 dainty spring afternoon frock be made of? When once silk is used by itself, elaborate trimming in the way of ruehing, cording, piping or crosswise arrangement of the silk pattern gives the desired suggestion of gaiety-for all frocks are gay now and winsome and coquettish! When two fabrics are combined lines may be simpler but the motto of fashion this spring seems to be Variety" anything like plain ness must be sedulously avoided.
 Show through" effects are the very X keynote of the moments mode. Sheer bodices of chiffon and net are imposed on underbodices laid in tucks or trin- med with metallic lace or velvet rib bon appliqued in the dignified Greek key pattern. Skirts of chiffon have ruffies or flat bands of silk placed close together from hem to belt. This hori- zontal trimming of the skirt is per- haps the most characteristic note of the 1916 spring. The effect will un- doubtedly be overdone because 1t is an effect so easily copied in all ma terials: but in it's novelty just now, it is charming.