davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22
No set Rules In Fashion

THAT Fashion is aAcapricious tyrant
 who rules her subjects with rod of iron is a popular but mistaken mo- tion. Things are. in fact. rather the other way. Certain broad rules must, of course. be followed. but there Is no iron fist of unintelligent despotisrn.
 Somebody once said fashion was made for fools. but he was certainly not right in the sense he intended. Never Was the fact that Fashion is the most broad minded of {darnes better illustrated than at the present moment. when, within the dimensions of a skirt as brief as 1t is broad. woman may follow her own fancy in the matter of clothes If she incIines to the modes of fifty years ago she may be Victorian in so far as Vic torianism may be compatible with the indisputable presence of ankles and un- aerstandings. Or, again, she may pre- fer the martial severity of braid and button, the long lines of the Russian suit or the loose comfort of the Cos sack coat Tn any or all in rotation her ttturnout'' is equally fashionable, pro- vided always that the style suits her personaIity and figure. Once that knot ty point is settled the rest is plain sail ing.
 Then there is the matter of sleeves. Sleeves, in a double sense. loom large oh the horizon this season. They offer a wide field for the exercise of origi- 4nality, taste and discretion, with this single exception-that, in the case of the suit, the choice is necessarily some what limited. The time when a frock was dated by its sleeve has passed away. The leg-o'-rnutton sleeves of the early nineties, the balloon sleeves that came after, the straight sleeves that heralded the opening of the twen- tieth century or the one with many mn inh N1yoo modes that followed, are one and all used by the dressmaker of today.
 Another reverses the process, but, finding the way of perfect freedom of choice little to it's taste. throws breadth of outlook to the winds and seeks the narrow path as it hears the end of it's brief life. One puffs at the shoulder. Another has no such enlarged notions of it's own importance, but pursues the even tenor of it's way from armhole to wrist and the bell sleeve opens un- abashed over cuffs of lawn or lace, whichever you please. One sleeve is set into a normal arnhole, another droops languidly from some point above the
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22

T7SAAEIOIS have been Qg1iescent in
 this realm of clothes for many years. There have been no Kate Greenaway or aoufet de Gonvel to establish a revolu- taon. Simplicity. severity. comfort. form fhe <rilogy which has ruled all ideas general has been the acceptance of this law that the majority of us have thought that Juvenile costumery was settIed forever along a certain groove and that quantity and quality were the ad1uncts to good dressing for the young.
 No mother minded the fact that her woungatsr had a dozen frocks OF slips Gut on The same pattern and made possIbly out of the same material There was not even a definite struggle after variety in color.
 There are some who put down the c4aauge in cfildren,s clothes to Che- xuit and L.anyin, both of whom are ex- perts In this field of coatumery. Their houses were turned over for the de- signing of new things for American children more than the French children, for they ven realized that there was little money to be spent in Europe on juvenile clothes.
 Many of the new things arriving dn 1hfs country have been met with more astouishmeut than approval, but, like all fashions and many other changes, familiarity has brought acceptance. The general acceptance of a change in chiIdren's fashions has not yet set in, and It is too early to prophesy whether ! or not the revolution will be farreach- sing,
 As an accentuation of the change that has taken place in small garments there is a new frock advanced as the most correct model for spring; it is made of brown gaberdine embroidered in yellow, with a yellow satin blouse.
 The use Of this fabric and this color fs unusual In chtldren's clothes. and it shoNsz thai eve assH tending away from thes conventional theories Of what should be worn and dipping into the region of the unknown. It is quite true that the tiniest youngsters have worn wooden clothes when no attempt was made for fashion and only comfort and health were considered. but whenever there was even the smallest altar to fashion raised in the sewing room small children were kept to washable materials.
 Whare the laundry question does not
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22
A GIBE FROM
 THE MlLLINER

A SUCCESSFUL milliner makes the
 assertion that 99 in 100 women don't know how to put on their hats. And, as just about 99 in 100 women have to put on their own hats. this lack of slSiH is almost depieraBle.
 The, gravest fault in inc Way women put on their hats is that they. don't put them on far front enough. The hat must come well down over the forehead, ], in spite of predictions made last year that we would again show much of the hair under our hats. This prediction is justified only in the case of the hats that tip well up the back and show the hair there.
 One reason why we don't get our hats far front enough Is that they aren't big enough, very often. It is. an economy if your head is unusually large to have your hats made to order. For then they can be worn at the right angle and will give the right appearance.
 If your hats are becoming they don't need hair about the face to soften them and make them more becoming If the straight line of hat against skin Is not becoming, don't pull out a fuzzy lock here and there to soften the line. In stead, make one curl in the middle of the forehead and pull it out so that it makes a thin fuzz or bang all across the forehead
 If the line of the hat over the ears Is trying, make a curl just over each ear "a definite one that gives definite effect. Don't just use the stray locks that you can pull from the hair on top of your head.
 The new hats that have been shown for southern wear still maintain the line that is low over the face. Some back. but the front is always pulled down.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22
soMETHINo eRoMIMa.

( UT flowers at this season are ex-
 pensiVe. but they will soon be cheaper. Even now if we put by 50 cents a week we can have somefhing growing always in sight in our living rooms. Growing plants of ivy that give a charming touch of growing green to room cost no more than 25 cents. and these will grow more or less Indefinitely if watered occasionally and given plenty of air. And if we buy one of these ivy plants one week we have just that much more money to spend for flowers later on. One week we can in vest in a little pot of ferns. and again in a primrose or begonia. Begonias give great satisfaction, for they lit- eraIly stay covered with bloom for
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22
m oTHNss and those wl1o ars

m M OTHERS and those who are interested i4f the designing
 Of youthful clothes are the
 " A two classes of women who realize the importance of the change In childrens costunezs
 The one slogan in the nursery sew Ing room was that there should be plenty Of each garment in order to se- oure the hygienic cIeanl mess that each n30ther lights for with all her energy, dlscardlng to the winds the old tradi- aon that "a peck Of dirt is necessary z
 There WAS custom growing in popularity among mothers Of small children to keep them dressed in all white or light colored wash frocks all the year around Warn, steam heated houses probably explain this style. as he&yy 1xocks are too warm for wear Indoors. and long heavy coats are per- esctly warm enough over the cotton &cQcks for wear in our mild winters.
 The drst child wears a. Charming sSnock of white linen, the stitching be- ang done in pale blue. Interesting gEnocks, H1ore elaborate than the dia- noud pattern. adorn the yoke, while 4he collar cufxs and skirt hem are fh- sshed with simple featherstit tchtng This makes an ideal play uniform The next girl wears . school frocl of kings blue linen cut with a kiited Nleirk and eorselef top. which zs belt ea and worn over white batiste gRiKnpes Ali edges of the corseiet are aeaIloped with darker shade of blue linen floss. The simplicity of this frock puts ft in the hands of every mother.
 The tall. splndling child is clothed in Q pretty frock of Scotch plaid Gingharns
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22

blue and green, with a smart blue patent leather belt. The cleft bolero isl piped around the .edge and trimmed with white pearl buttons to match the little white pique collar and cuffs, while a little blue velvet four-in-hand tie gives the right touch to the neck.
 The sturdy girl next pictured is ap- propriately garbed in 8 jumper suit. plain pink chambray combined with pink and white plaid. The ball crochet buttons give becoming touch. This jumper suit is worn over 8 serviceabie. guimpe of white pique. edged with strong torchon lace
 A demure lassie is proud of her plaid ginghan frock-a gay blue, red and
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22

elbow and a third, boasting no inde- pendent existence. forms part and par eel of the corsage, of which, indeed it is merely an extension in one particu- lar direction.
 waistcoat here. a collar there, @ spray of flowers, some tulle and a taa- sel i've call 1t a rufde for cOurtesyl- these are some of the trihes by the help of which the clever woman of small means contrives to lend to her ward robe something of the diversity which characterizes the outfits of her wealth fer sisters.
 Flowers, too, deserve more than a passing notice. Tight bouquats and posies have given way to trailing sprays and festoons. Not fntrequently the sheath-like drapery, generally of con- trasting shade, which in many gowns encircle the figure from bust Go hips. is pIentifuIIy sprinlzled with flowers and the coiffure. the waistband. the sleeve and the garter have au Euc- cumbed to a howery passion
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22
A YOUTHFUL BELLf

THHIS party frock for the schoolgirl is
 quite asN important as the dance gown of her older sister: 1t certainly. is just as pretty. Fashioned Of pale blue taffeta. top corded raf1le overhung with 9 creamy net edged with shadow lace and made with a little bolero, accenIu
 ated by q French wreath of tiny pink rosebuds, this frock makes the dainti- test4kind-ef necessity for holiday festi-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22

FOOD FIRST AT cHILp's PARTY. IT LITTLE children under six are hard A to entertain. They are generally restless and shy and do not know how to enter into games as quickly as when they are older One of the best ways we have found to overcome thiB shynes- and reserve is to have, the ''goodies
 first. After all the little ones have come Go the party usher them into the dining room and bring on the birthday cake, the ice cream, popcorn balls and candy. One may then stand back and see their little cheeks flush, their eyes widen with delight and their joy burst forth. When they have eaten their on and received the little favOrs dear co their childish hearts they are ready for the peanut hunt, the merry Fomp and the other jolly games.-Good House keeping
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22
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green plaid checked off with pin stripel of bright yellow. The skirt is box plated1 the belt cut on the bias, like the vest, and the long waisted top trimmed with white pearl buttons. Please notice the dainty white organdie collar and cuff. set she wears.
 The adorable baby at the end plays in a quafnt little pinafore of beige blue linen, bound around all edges with black silk braid and buttonfng hygien : icaAy on the shoulders. How brave the
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-03-22
kExilN FILLET.

Chalu 3U. First row-1 SD. bl. SD. Second row-1 sps bl, 2 SD. Third row--7 SD. bl, SD. Fourth row-1 SD. bl, 2 SD. Fifth row-4 SD. bls SD. Sixth, seventh and, eighth EoWs--l SD, bl SD.
 Ninth row-1 SD, bl. SD. Tenth row-7 SD. 1 bl Tsp. Eleventh row-1 SD. bL 2 SD Twelfth row-7 SD. bl, ] sp. Continue until length degirod
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
FIRE LOSS DIMINISHES
Damage Caused During 1916 Placed at $34, ,474-Fivc Changes in Per sonncl of Department

New Britain's fire loss for 1916 will be substantially less than that of the previous year, according to. the an nual report of Chief Robert M. Dame, now practically completed. With little more than a week of the old year re- maining, the loss is estimated at $34,474. The decrease is partially eX plained by the efficiency of the depart ment and the speed with which ap- paratus has responded to alarms. Many of the fires would have been threatening but for timely discovery and quick and efficient work by the firemen. There have been 1855 runs for the department, large propor- ton of them being for minor fires. The biggest loss was during Novem- Der when the Hugh Reynolds store house on Commercial street and the Reynolds block on Main street were partially gutted.
 During the year there have been vacancies in the department. Death caused two, Captain John O'Brien of Engine Go. Mo- dying September 9 and Michael J. Claughsey, veteran driver of Engine Co. No. 3, receiving fatal injuries at the Washington street grade crossing accident December 9, A. pension and the resignations of James Toomey and John Higgins were ac- cepted.
 There were four fires in which horses were burned to death, death claiming a total of seven. The pull motor carried on Hook & Ladder Co. No was used five times, two times successfully.
 fires the new Kilbourne house in Stanley Quarter and Sloper's garage during January; Mueller's cigar store in March; the Reliable Laundry in June, the Reynolds fires during November and the burning of the Abraham barn on Rockwell street and cellar fires on Lafayette and Broad streets this month.
 Death stalked in company with three of the calls for aid Miss Annie Russell received fatal burns at a fire April 1 dying the next day and Mrs. Josephine Moras and her two chill dren. Stella and Nellie, received fatal burns June IT. July 3 firemen were called when Munson was killed by ' lightning on Blake road.
 The annual report of Chief of Police William J. Rawlings will show a vast increase in the amount of busi- ness coming under the jurisdiction of his departm Arrests have in creased 25 or 30 a month, the patrol wa agon has made many more runs ana complaints to be investigated have in creased. General growth of the city with en1a ~ging of business and in
 crease of populatio is credited with -L->i.-~~ pAana'aSihkA-
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
Whole Nation United in De- termination to Amalgamate All Resources in Answer to Premier's Program.

London, Dec 21-While the morn ing papers give much prominence in American and / other foreign com ment on Premier Georges speech, the question of peace was secondary to- day to the discussion of the projected national service. The comment every nation to mobilize. The description of Rowland Brother, president of the board of agriculture, of Great Britain as a beleaguered city and his dictum ''war may be won or lost on our cornfields and potato lands" are fea- tured as furnishing the keynote to a national effort.
 The parliamentary correspondents of the newspapers contribute reports of the governments scheme which some say embraces all the males of sixteen to sixty and others seventeen to f1fty-siX The civil conscripts, ac- cording to these accounts, must place themselves at the disposal of the state for the duration of the war and must consent to be transferred to any part of the country where their sup port is needed. Filling the ranks in the essential war industries such as shipbuilding, railroads and mines will be the first step. Enrollments will not, however, be confined to manual workers and everybody from the Ies- ure rich downward must either vol unteer or eventually be forced into national work. The employment will be allotted according to respective capacity.
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
TO BUILD NEW FACTORY
Landers, Frary & Clark Will Erect Large Addition on Washington St. for Manufacture of Pocket Cutlery

In line with previous expansion made necessary by the healthy growth that has made Landers, F'rary & Clark the largest cutlery manufac- turing company in the world. that concern today made application to Building Inspector Arthur N Ruther- ford for a permit to erect a new fac tory building on Washington street.
 This new plant will be located on property formerly owned by the old Humason &, Beckley companyS and will be of brick four stories in height and will measure 30X177 feet. Work will be started on the structure as soon as possible.
 This latest addition will be devoted entirely to the manufacture of pocket cutlery, according to statement made by the officials today. It is also
 understood that this concern is plan- ming to purchase the right to manu- fracture another high grade culinary article which, it is said will further augment the enormous business of tha nnnananE.
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
CARSON ON ARMED SHIPS
Government Cannot Rccognizc Dis tinction Between Unarmed Ships and Those Armed for Defense.

London, Dec. 21, 3:55 D. m.-"The government cannot admit any distinc- tion between the rights of unarmed merchant ships and those armed for defensive purposes" said Sir Edward Carson first lord of the admiralty, re- plying to a question today in the house of commons. Continuing Sir Edward said:
 Merchant captains enjoy an inn memorable right to defend their ves- sells against attack, visit or search by any means in their power, but they must not seek out the enemy to attack him, that function being reserved to ships of war. So far as I am aware all the neutral powers take the same view"
 The first lord of the admiralty said the British government was devotine it's continuous attention to the theory and practice of defensive armament.
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
on Note More Than Appeal Based on Determination Conserve Amercs ee Bengs Must Take Notice Message and Presidents Unnchug Attitude
LANSING'S STATEMENT

  The he follows is 
 
 
  in
  the of send until Monday Of course the
 
  lv denies thatt that vast the oft the vii   of  defn the wh the Houen eno
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
NEW BROKERAGE FIRM?
Wealthy Investors Said to Bc Dis
 satisfied With Condition Here.

It Is not improbable that before long new brokerage house may be established in New Britain, if reports to that effect can be taken seriously It is said that a number of wealthy and influential investors have become very much dissatisfied with the man. ner in which several brokerage houses in this city have treated them during the past few weeks and as a result are seriously considering bringing an- other firm into the city.
 One of the mon said to be interest ed in the movement was asked con- corning the plan and admitted that such a project had been discussed. Should a new firm be brought here it is understood that it will De a branch of well known New 1ork exchange house that would also handle local stocks and securities.
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
SENATE HESITATES
 TO ENDORSE NOTE BOrah Has It Referred to Foreign
 Relations Committee THEY WANT TO STUDY IT
Resolution Says It Is Sense Of Body That Presidents Action Represents Overwhelming Public Sentiment State Department StOrmed.

Washington, Dec. 21.-A resolution strongly endorsing President Wilson's peace note, introduced in the senate today by Senator Hitchcock, was sent to the foreign relations committee on objection by Senator Borah who said the senate had not had sufficient op- portunity to consider the note
 The text of the resolution says:
 'It is the sense of the senate that this action of the president represents the overwhelming public sentiment and earnest desires of the people of the United States"
 On motion of Chairman Stone of the foreign relations committee, the note was ordered printed in the Congress siOnal Record.
 The despatch of the notes brought the greatest array of envoys to the state department seen here in months The German, British, Japanese, Italian and Brazilian amba a15a Ol'5 were early visitors. The Bulgarian and Persian ministers also called, as did charges of the other legations.
New Britain herald., 1916-12-21
%
 Whole List Breaks When
 5O,OOO Shares Are Dumped
 in at 1041z and 1051z at ~ Opening of Exchange.

New York, Dec. 21-Extreme weak ness bordering upon demoralization marked the opening dealings on the stock exchange today. The war shares broke from one to eleven points.
 The most sensational feature was the offering of 50,00O shares of Unit ed States Steel at 1041a to 105 F against yesterdays closing price of 1oS. Never before in the history of the exchange has a single block Of ' such steel been recorded.
 Stocks which broke sharply includ- ed Atlantic Gulf and West Indies, In dustrial Alcohol, Crucible Steel, In ternational Paper, Republic Iron and Steel Lackawanna Steel, American Car, Colorado, Central Leather Pitts hurgh Coal and Utah Copper.
 The selling seemed to come from all quarters and reported further un- loading margins. A renewal of liqu- dation was large1y ascribed~rtc~ Presi- < dent Wilson's note to the bellgerents.
 Transactions in steel continued on an enormous scale. the total amount ' ing to 22o.o0o shares within the first .slalf hour, at between lO4k and HO61k.
 
 5000 shares, with one lot of 15,000 shares.
 Rails Included in Break.
 Even rails, which have been gen. erally strong in the midst of the re- cent liquidation gave way in the first rush of selling today, Reading selling off over point and Union Pacific 1 E = Although the market continued fe- versh rallies were registered in the first half hour of from to ' points.
 Sales of all stocks in this brief pe- riod approximated 50,000 shares.
 There was quiet accumulation of stocks, notably rails where the initial losses were soon changed to gains. A With the market still extremely nervous and much confusion, in the irregular recoveries, brokers were re- ported as urging their customers to refrain from further trading until ,r conditions became more settled E.
 Commission houses discouraged buying of the more volatile special ties except for cash. Increased of ;. margin, as much as 50 per cent was demanded in some instances, even for standard shares.
 Recoveries proved of brief duration steel falling to 104 soon after II sa. o'clock with similar recessions in oth- m CT industrials.
 Liquidation on the second setback was less general but seemingly no less imperative than that which attended the opening.
 z, Other stocks in which transactions were heavy up to 1 o'clock were E Anaconda, 47,300 shares; Marine, 37, 300; Marine preferred, 59,900; Cru cible, 2S,600; Reading, $500; Unior v Pacific, 1900. Steel during these three hours sold high at 106 h, low a 102; Anaconda high 31a, low 80 N Marine high 26aA, low 23A; Marin, preferred high 9O1 low SC; Cru eible high 57, low 52; Reading higl 107A, low 100; Union Pacific, higl 1495s low 144h