davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
No. 6so4

as positive that longer skirts, still
full and more elaborately trimmed
will prevail, while still another advo-
Gates the draped effect, moderately
long and full. Seems to be a case Of
you pays your money and takes your
choice" for all are beautiful as we'll as
practical. Artistic effects are achiev-
ed with skirts showing fiounces of
different colors and materials. An ex-
ample may be cited in a skirt of ripe
green faille, trimmed with jet and
satin. It has two iounces, the upper
flounce being in green, the lower one
in black peau de sole. Accompany
ing the skirt is a charming coat of
black peau de sole, which completely
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
No. 6sas-66aa.

covers the green founce. In another
instance a two-founced skirt will have
a third founce falling from the waist
to veil the upper founce of the skirt
in some very thin material, like
mousseline or net, sometimes plain,
sometimes embroidered.
Beauty of line and wearableness are
features combined in especially at
tractive frocks of serge and broad
cloth. At present the light weight
smooth twill serge is the most popu-
lar because it is the most seasonable.
Gabardine is as popular as ever and
there are several new varieties Of this
material among the spring and sum-
mer novelties.
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
Wreaths For Personal and Household Linens
Dainty and Simple Designs That Supply A Vital Neec
of the NeedIevvoman

rule to follow is always to have the
stitch at right angles to the edge. This
means that in wreath the stitches
must swing with the curve, yet if
one is to secure the proper smoothness
in the finished design there must be
no overlapping of stitches nor any ex-
cessive amount of space between the
stitches. To get them just right re-
quires nicely of execution, but a
little practise and sincere effort will
quickly result in perfect work. Swing
the stitches gradually with the curve,
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
Spinach Salad

Materials-Use for this spinach left
over from that cooked as a vegetable.
Drain it very thoroughly; season with
salt, pepper and little lemon juice;
press into a mold and set on ice until
ready to serve. Turn out and garnish
with slices of lemon and hard-cooked
eggs. Serve mayonnaise OF boiled salad
dressing with this salad.
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
BY KATHRYN MUTTERER.

IN marking personal and household
linens wreaths supply a vital need
Of the needlewoman. The designs
shown here are of the greatest i'm
portance in the decoration of table
cloths. napkins, doilies, handker-
chiefs, lingerie and other linens that
are simply scalloped or hemstitched
and require a little more than a sim
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
NewIdeas In Sandwich Making
If Well Made and Carefully Sc
lected. They Give The After
noon Tea A Note OF Excellence

INV YHEN in doubt, serve sand
N/ wiches" in a good motto
w for the hostess who enter
tains either with a formal
tea or the more informal afternoon
party.
If bread is used it should be made
especially in large square loaves. 1t
should be at least one day old and
should be cut in very thin slices. But
ter should be creamed before spread
ing. Sandwiches may be kept perfectly
fresh for several hours by wrapping
in a dampened napkin and placing
where it is cool.
Mock Pate de Fois Gras Sandwiches.
Equal parts of boned and skinned
sardines and cream cheese, mashed
to a pulp together, produce a combina-
ton which tastes almost exactly like
the goose-liver pate, is much cheaper,
and not as indigestible. Spread on
whole wheat bread.
Almond Sandwiches.
Almond sandwiches of all varieties
are delicious for the tea-table. Cut
the bread in thin slices, spread with
butter and put on a layer of finely
chopped almonds, to which has been
added a light sprinkling of salt, and
dash Of lemon juice; lay over another
slice of buttered bread, cut into small
ovals and press a blanched nut in the
centre.
Chopped Beef Piquant.
Clipped beef, chopped very fine and
mixed with mayonnaise, is a simple,
inexpensive, and delicious sandwich
filling. No one would ever be able to
identify the Clipped beef.
Novelty Sandwiches.
Chop fine one small onion, nine OIL
ives. one green pepper, one chow-chow
pickle, and one cup of grated cheese,
Then add enough mustard dressing to
form a paste when mixed with other
ingredients. Spread this on slices of
buttered entire wheat bread
saImagIndi Sandwiches.
Cut in thin slices brown bread,
whole wheat bread and white or rye
bread; butter each slice lightly and
spread with a paste made by chopping
very fine some cold boiled ham.
Moisten the ham with salad dressing
and spread on rounds of buttered
bread; place the white bread rounds
between the brown bread and whole
wheat bread, press lightly together
and serve on a plate garnish d with
watercress.
French Sandwiches.
Chop one cup of white meat of
chicken, three olives. one gherkin and
one tablespoonful Of capers Add to
this half a pint Of mayonnaise dresss
ing; thin with a tablespoon of tar
ragon vinegar. Spread on thin slices
of bread, roll and tie.
Mock Crab Sandwiches.
To half cup Of grated cheese add
four tablespoons creamed butter. half
mustard, one teaspoon Of anchovy.
& teaspoon each Of salt, paprika and
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
coIors and Compilations.

Light blue makes blond complexions
look ashen.
Dark blue sets off a blond COM
plexion in high relief by supplying a
suitable background.
Blue is unbecoming to a L: Inette,
unless her cheeks be fiorid If she Dc
sallow it makes her face look tawny.
Green has the same effect as blue
upon brunettes, but makes the cheeks
of a fair face look pinker.
Red heightens the effect Of pale bru-
nette beauty.
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
CONSTRUCTION cUIDE66O6

well to do the handwork first.
To make the garment, slash to left
of center front on long line of small
20" perforations ;underface the right
slashed edge. and sew an underlap to
the left slashed edge; finish for a
closing. Close under-arm and shoul-
der seams as notched. close center
back seam. Turn under lower edges
OF front and back on lower line of
small 30" perforations for hem. Lap
the lower edge OF back on front.
matching the upper small 20" perfora-
tons and close with buttons and but
ton-holet as illustrated Slash front
and back Y inch above and below the
indicating single small 20" perfora-
tons to pass ribbon through.
AS a protection to the buttonholed
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
BY MAUoE HALL

Dy MAOOE F1ALL
PREPAREDNESS for the woman
Of fashion means fortifying her
wardrobe with white frocks,
white wraps, white hats, white
shoes, white stockings and white ac-
cessories to complete the toilette
The war in Europe has caused the dye
supply to be cut off. with the result
that white has become intensely pop
ular. Next in order are biege, rose
and navy blue.
BY next fall this condition of af-
fairs will have changed, whether the
war continues or not, for already
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
Home Dressmaker's Corner.
Pretty Combination That Meets the Demand of til,
Fashionable Figure
+ fashionable Figure

The back is placed on a lengthwise
thread of the material and the piec-
ing cut from the selvage edge II the
is to be embroidered, it is
Evening journal., 1916-02-10

/" HE envelope chemise is one Of
the daintiest Of the new con
ceits in underwear AS shown
here, it closes at the left side
front and is trimmed with en-
broidery. Nainsook, crepe cloth or
lawn may be used for its development
? s-S yards of S6-inch material being
required.
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
oard Party sandwIehes.
Salmon Sandwiches.

Favored buffers are much "a favor
for sandwiches. Fresh, unsalted but
ter is the foundation. This is first
creamed, then the favoring material is
added and the whole is beaten until
thoroughly blended and smooth.
Among the popular iavorings are
olives, anchovy, sardines, cheese,
chives, parsley, parprika, caviar and
salmon.
Evening journal., 1916-02-10

having them crowded close together
on the inner edge. and on the outer
edge spaced as far apart as one dares
without showing the running stitches
beneath.
Evening journal., 1916-02-10
Nos. 66oo-661o

paste and vinegar and two tablespoons
of chopped olives. Spread between
rounds of white bread.
Card Party Sandwiches.
Cut thin slices of white bread into
pieces the sis and shape Of playing
cards, fill with highly spiced, finely
chopped meat, moistened with mayon-
naise dressing. Slice picked beets and
cut out tiny hearts and place them on
the slices in the positions of the spots
on the cards.
Salmon Sandwiches.
Mix the salmon with a mayonnaise
dressing, about one-half cup being
sufficient for the small sized cans.
Mince the fish fine, bones and all, and
add the dressing. Remove the soft
crumbs from French rolls and fill the
space with the fish mixture.
Evening journal., 1916-02-10

To cut and make the combination is
a matter of but a few hours, and only
a little more time is required for the
embroidery. The material is first
carefully folded in half Sc thai the
front may be placed on the fold. When
Evening journal., 1916-02-10

INV YHEN in doubt, serve sand
N/ wiches" in a good motto
" for the hostess who enter
Anan.n .lAIn.. ...lAh Erar.rna al
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
FOUR SHIRT STRIKERS FINED
,'nion Threatens National Strike to
Organize All Workers.

Fines imposed on four disorder,ly
.triking shirtmakers in the Iomos
Court yesterday were followed by q
statement from the headquarters OF
the Shirt and Boys Waist Makers
Urion, l75 East Broadway, that efforts
would be made 10 organize the shirt
industry throughout the country, even
if it was necessary TO call general
strike.
Strikers fined were Bertha Stein,
ineteen. 80 Suffolk Street; Herman
sledgelow. twentysiX, 80 East Fourth
.treet; ID. Mazublu, twenty-nine, All
=: st Fifth Street, and Simon Gerson,
twenty-five. 302 South Third Street,
Brooklyn. They we're charged with IN.
terfering with Patrolman Ros\ and
Dunne. who were protecting other
eLirt makers who had refused to strike.
zach was fined $40. Jail sentences are
promised the next disorderly striker.
An official Of the union dug down for
the $40
According to B. A. Larger, general
orpanizer of the United Garment
Workers Union. the first move IN tne
threatened general strike will be the
summoning out Of the remaining 3D.
600 shirt makers outside the city who
sre employed by New York manufac,,
.urers. The total number. employed
in the industry throughout the country
Larger said. was 100000.
Samuel Gompers, president OF the
American Federation of Labor. Will
confer this morning with the leaders
# the shirt makers strike.
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
RAIDED POOLROOM
STREWN WITH JEWELRY
45 Prisoners, Crap Players, Re.
fuse to Claim Property.

Inspector Ryan's men who raided
"Half Dollar" John -anger's poolroon
early yesterday morning found tha
the floor was Uttered with soli
watches, gold chains, pocket knives and
pawntickets.
None Of the forty-fvs prisoners
would claim any Of the property. From
this unexpected scorning Of jewelry
the police derived the theory that IN
smashing their way into the poolroon
they had accidentally discovered the
headquarters Of gang OF Hsrlems
notorious dips" Several veteran
pickpockets were in the crowd, the %.
lice said. On the proprietor, brother
of Half Dollar john" the raiders
found S5i5 in change and $4,000 il
bills of large denomination. lie VA
held in $500 bail.
The other forty-four prisoners, oil Q.
whom gave fictitious names, were o..
raigned efore Magistrate Simms II
the Harlem court and fined SO each Or
pleading guilty to indu!ging in q cn'
game.
A lively fight occurred when the ps-
lice interrupted the dice game, bet
billiard cues, chairs and tables 500,
gave way before nightsticks.
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
Bituminous Coal Dispute
Due to Reach a Settle
ment To-day.
ANTHRACITE CASE
COMES UP THURSDAY
Railroad Brotherhoods Give AS
surances of No Imme-
diate Action.

Prospects OF an amicable settlement
OF the three most important labor dis
putes now pending in the country were
so bright yesterday as TO lead TO op-
timistic statements BY all the leaders.
Railroad men VINO are seeking an
eight-hour day agreement, bltuminous
coal miners who are conferring with
onerators 70 obtain the installation OF
the mine-run plan as well as increased
nav. and anthracite miners who have
made ten demands upon the operators,
all agreed that prospects Of conces-
sions had removed ell danger OF costly
strikes.
The most tangible cause for nope Is
given by the principals IN the nitu-
rinous coal conferences being held at
the McAlpin Hotel. Tables Of increased
costs expected to be brought about oy
the use of the mne-run system Will De
introduced by mathematicians acting
for both sides at this mornings con
ference. 1t is generally believed tnat
An agreement will be reached under
which the mine-run plan and silgnV
increase in pay TO the men Will oe
reached to-day or tomorrow.
The anthracite problems, which are
considerably more complex, Will not
come up for consideration until next
Thursday. That the conferences were
nostponed until that day is accepted as
on indication OF the general belief that
the bituminous coal settlement Will be
reached before that day.
The chief obstacle to an early agree
mont between the miners and antnrs-
! cite operators lies in the insistent de.
mand of the miners for recognition OF
the union. The operators have refused
IN do this heretofore on the ground
that il would compel them to deduct
union dues from the pay OF their men,
whether the men desired TO join the
union or not. II is believed that the
increased pay that has been tentatively
discussed as acceptable to the mine
operators would be sufficient to cause
the union officials to abandon their
other demands.
Assurances that there would be no
strike of members OF the various rail-
road brothe rhoods involved IN the pres
ent demands for shorter WORK day
were found in the statement beng sent
bv the Brotherhood of Railroad Tram
l men to their mem DeIs buiVu6hcNS
| country. In the document is detailed
statement of the thirteen demands OF
/ the men. which show for the first tlme
lust how the eight-hour day would al
/ feet the various runs.
In the statement is this paragraph:
"It must be understood that this Is
not a strike ballot. 1t is an expression
Of opinion which, if voted upon favor
ably. authorizes the chief executives
; and committee to present the demands
included in the ballot 10 railway COM
panies and to represent the men on
all questions that may arise in con-
nection with the presentation
It is explained that adoption OF the
demands set forth in the ballot will
mean more to the men on the drag
than on the preferred runs. The slow
train. that do not make the mileage
within their time limit will show the
profit accrung from time and half
for overtime.
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
DEMOCRATS HIT FOES
APPORTIONMENT PLAN
Say Republicans Project Vic.
lates Article of Constitution.

Strenuous opposition has developed
among Democratic members OF the APP
portionment Committee against their
Republican associates over the deter
mination OF the latter TO adopt its new
rule OF apportionment.
The Republicans engaged in the work
Of dividing the state into Assembly
and Senate districts were charged yes
terday By the five Democratic members
with attempting TO distort the constl-
tutional provision TO increase their
partv's strength. The Democratic
members, Senators Robert /. Wagner
and Thomas II. Cullen and Assembly
men Joseph NJ. Callahan. Joseph ID.
Kelly and Peter McArdle, issued a
statement deploring the Republican al
legged coup.
I'VE warn them" they said, that
they can never satisfactorily explain
10 the people of New York why New
York City's representation in the Leg
islature decreases, although its popu-
laton has increased. We propose
rules of apportionment which, If adopt
ed. will give TO the City OF New York
five more Assemblymen than the Re
pubicans now propose to give IT. New
Ork county now mas tnirly-oHe AZ
semblymen, based on the census OF
1905, and il is proposed By the major
ty OF the committee TO reduce this 20
twenty-three, based on the census OF
1915.
"0f course. there il fundamental
difficulty with which we are confronted,
Cor the way the constitutional provision
on reapportionment is framed shame
fully discriminates against New York
City. II provides such an anomaly
as the apportionment Of only one AS
semblyman to every $1,000 citizens in
New York City, as against 900 in
Putnam County, $4,000 in Schuyler and
IS. 600 in Yates. In our opinion the ap-
portionment rule contemplated by the
Republicans does not respect the con-
stitutional requirement that the unit
of representation in the Assembly shall
be found by dividing the entire citizen
population of the state by 150."
It is pointed out by their opponents
that the Republican majority can di-
vide its twenty-three Assembly dis
tricts among nine Senate districts only
by having five Senate districts contain
three Assembly districts and four Sen
ate districts two Assembly districts.
This, they contend. violates Article 3,
Section 3. of the constitution.
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
'P.S.C. APPOINTEES UP TUESDAY
Finance Committee Will Pass on Whit
man Nominations.

From Star Correspondent Of The Tribune
Albany, Feb. 27.-The result of the
Senate Finance Committees hearing on
Tuesday on Governor Whitman's ap-
pointments Of Travis II. Whitney and
Charles s. Hervey as Public Service
Commissioners and on his appointments
to the Industrial Commission is await
ed with deep concern by Republican
politicians throughout the state.
There was report tonight that the
Finance Committee would oppose the
confirmation of Mr.. Whitney. but mem
bers of the committee declared that no
definite action had been decided upon.
This plan was agreed to in Difference
TO Senator Robert Wagner, the minor
ity leader. who asked that definite ac-
tion be postponed until his return from
the Democratic convention at Syracuse.
Senator Robert X. Lawson. OF Brook
lyn, is the chief opponent Of the con-
iirmation of xessrs. Lynch, Wizard and
Lyon as members of the Industrial
Commission. His opposition IL based
on the Diamond candy factory fire in
Brooklyn. A number of civic societies
have Joined in the fight.
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
Mrs. Gorton Expects Hus-
band to Return in Dream
TO Confer with Her.
SHE WAITS FOR HIM
TO SUPERVISE BOOK
Volume Will Tell Doctors Views
on Vegetarianism, Children
and Other Topics.

Almost any night now, Mrs. Bertha
Rehbein Gorton expects the spirit OF
her eighty-four-yenrold husband who
died last Tuesday, TO reappcar at 2o'
Eastern Parkway, Brooklyn, TO guide
her in caring for the famous "eugenlc
twins"
"No. he hasn't appeared yet she
said last night. "But would not be
surprised 10 have him come soon. lie
told me before he Died that he would
come back TO confer with me about the
twins and TO direct me in preparing
for publication his book called 'Eu-
geniology.'"
This book will be the epitome of Dr.
David Allyn Gorton's life, his WIDOW
cvplained. From the long sleep when
he craved lust before he passed away,
he will supervise the final compilation
of his views on eugcnics. sex detefini- j.
nation and vegetarlanism. Inc phy-
sician was eighty years old wheh ms
wife. twenty-sevcn years MS JUNIOR
presented him with twins. David Allyn
and Leonora. As his literary secre-
tary. his wife shared his interest IN
eugenics.
Mrs. Gorton looks for his visitation
in the medium of a dream. She says
he was not a Spiritualist.
ale always drew his intuition from
dreams" Mrs. Gorton continued
whenever he had difficult case he
seemed to know by some strange pre-
monition just what to do. But alter
the crisis was over he could never de-
termine the dreamlike source OF his
power.
81 am certain he will came back TO
commune with me, as ne promised. lie
left directions, YOU know, that the
twins were 20 be reared on p vegetarian
diet
Mrs. Gorton was asked IL her hus-
band left any message for the Brook
lvn Eugenic Society, which he founded.
Yes" she replied. He told Mrs.
Obendorfer, the president, that the so
oietv would hear from him."
The widow refused to make pubic
p poem called "Bchind the Veil the
last thing that DR.. Gorton wrote be
fore his death His last comment on
the European war was that the fighting
would not cease until justice had been
done.
Residents in Brooklyn Heights were
astonished to learn that DR.. Gorton
had promised 10 reappear among them
from the grave.
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
BELONG TO A UNION?
THEN BUY A DRESS SUIT
Bay State Workmen Start Beau
Brummell Movement.

Worcester, Mass, Feb. PA move
ment TO have union workmen appear
at their social affairs in dress suits
has been started by the moulders or
ganization. In connection with plans
for its annual concert this week, the
union has sent out word that male at
tendan.s should wear formal evening
clothes.
Officers Of the union said that the
idea found sucn ready acceptance that
they had taken steps to extend 1t 10
other unions, with plan in mind to
have it made the subject OF ofhclai
action.
There is no reason why the laborer
should not appear at his sfter-dinner
affairs properly gsrbed. II would re
move one Of the artificial lines that
now separate the classes, and. believe
me. some of our workingmen would
look fne," said Richard J. Thornton,
business agent Of the union.
New-York tribune., 1916-02-28
GERMANY STANDS
ON LINER PLEDGE
Continued from page |

ions of prominent experts in tic En-
tents countries. Appendices 70 the re-
cent German note are said TO rontain
proofs of all these contentious, includ-
ing Photographic copies Of the secret
orders. There is, therefore, Germany
contends, no such thing as "defen-
sively armed" merchant ship aaoat.
Any gun carried on merchant yes
seIs. whatever its stated purpose, could
destroy a submarine with one shot. II
is therefore impossible for sub
marine 10 give warning to an armed
vessel. This principle. It IS contended.
was recognized by the United States IN
the modus vivendi note TO the Allies.
and only repudiated by Preside. Will
son when Germany proposed to trans
late il into action.
There is therefore no warrant for
"reopening" the Lusitania case. Ger
many has acknowledged liability for in
demnity. which Secretary Lansing
thinks equivalent TO a disavowal, and
has given assurances that the crime VIII
not be repeated.
The Presidents purpose in the cor
troversy which begins Tomorrow is de-
fensive rather than offensive. In spite
Of the uncompromising attitude shown
in his letter to Senator Stone, he IS
not disposed to force the fighting with
Germany. He is content TO shelve the
Lusitania case for the present and de-
vote his energies TO an attempt to
avert a crisis by obtaining some assur-
ance from Germany that defensively
armed ships will not be attacked with
out warning.
There is. however. apparently no
common ground on which the two gov
crnments can begin a discussion. State
Department officials see no solution ex-
cept in an appeal TO the Enterte gov
crnmcnts that their guns will not be
used against submarines which try 10
warn them. Even this arrangement
might not be acceptable TO Germany.
The principal hope seen by Admin
istration officials rests more on chance
than on diplomacy. Il is pointed out
that there arc very few American
travelling on armed ships. A gr5a.
many such vessels may be sunk there
fore without involving this govern
ment. Furthermore, IT is believed tina.
German commanders Will exercise eX-
tremc caution and will attack armed
vessels only when they are convinced
that there arc no Americans on board.