Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-12-27

Fortunate is the proud possessor OF q
real Paisley shawl. for these rare old heir
looms. with their exquisitely delicate yet
daring colorIng, arc not all genuine one
must remember that there are three distinct
kinds OF cashmere shawl-the Indian shawl
she French imitation and the Paisley copy.
SIN another kind OF Indian shawl Is the
patchwork shawl. composed Of little pieces
of marvellous needlework. sewn together
IN by chance one should own that pretty
rarity. an Indian cashmere, then. indeed
one should be happy. for 1t Is worth it's
weight in gold
since Damo Fashion has decided 20 smile
.upon everything suggestive OF the Empire
poriod. our beloved relies have not escaped.
No matter how insinuatingly she may look
iupon our shawl we could not commit the
airocity OF slashing our Indian cashmere.
Its French initiation, or the still more
beautiful Paisley. may be cut up. with some
hesitation to be made into charming COM
bnations so appealing TO lovers OF artistl'
cally daring accessories. But the Indian
shawl should be worn only as a scarf. as
were those belonging to the ladies OF Jo-
iHephnes court That fascinating Empress
N was who caused the worldwide passion
for these shawls. When her distinguished
.eonsort came homo from the French eXpedi-
ltlon into Egypt. bringing with him some eN-
loulslto Indian shawls. she took an instant
hncy 20 the beautiful things. When Ma
uoleon told her that II took two Hlndus
two years to make one OF them, she uttered
surprised little Mon Dieu" and ordered
one 70 match each OF her gowns.
II II there is any immutable article OF dress
dssIgned for eternity. II Is this ancient
karment They have been worn for thou
bands OF years In the East by q people who
resent the idea of change and TO whom
egery custom is u form OF religion. They
have woven into the delicate web OF the
hbrlc some OF the symbolism that they
bye. In the form OF tho pine cone. In all
~ the Paisley and Indian shnwls there is
! suggestion OF this pattern Sometimes II
Abpears In whimsical guise, but there II Is,
The pine cone. The mystic Hindu had
not spent years weaving single shawl for
rolhing, when once fashion accepted them,
- could not supply the demand. Napoleon
booked With dlsfRvor upon 30 much money
being paid outside OF France. So a French
factory was established and tho Indian
bhawls were carefully and successfully
copied
England was slower than France 10 adopt
he fashion. Is II not always 80? But when
fney did accept the ahawls. the manufac'
pure was nearer perfection than the French
4hawls. In 1890 the little town OF Paisley.
scotland, had become perhaps the most
iamous manufacturing center I'm the world.
Queen Victoria encouraged the vogue by
fuylng seventeen In one year. bride felt
Pat her trousseau was incomplete without
real Paisley. But. alas as always hap
PENS, when the abundance OF home manu-
iAetnro enabled the 'bourgeolsie" TO put Il
on, the aristocrat put It OF. The beautiful
Slowing stun was folded carefully In the
ssdar chest 10 be brought forth for this
generation's pride and glory.
The peculiar beauty. the value and his
tory, all make this lovely shawl partleu-
larly appealing. Shall we cut Il up, or Try
% Initiate the art OF our grandmotlfers, who
Eore this shawl quantity. with dignity and
charm?