davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1916-12-10

Hurs must needs adapt themselves to
De vhims OF fashion. and many women
want even their sables to conform to
the mode of the moment.
The big soft draped collars, cape
collars. capes. &C. have taken femi-
ninity by storm. and save in the case
o. the handsomest grades Of fox are
The prevailing modes In neck furs. The
straight stole or scarf Is shown also,
t. ia less modish than It was last
winter. and the same Is true OF the
sraight stock or chin collar. though
pms women wisely cling to this high,
close collar when the thicker shoulder
CELEBRATING lines Of the newer ollar
are ~unbecoming.
Erm!ne, alone or trimmed In other
fur. Is perhaps leading In Christmas
snall furs. A misnomer that Is now.
adays. when small furs" are quite
likely, so far as the neckpiece Is con-
cerned, to reach to the waist line oil
around. Its q festive fur. Is ermine;
and, even II one has other furs. prac-
tea. dark furs, there's always . place
10 the we'll dressed woman's wardrobe
for something IN this soft white fur
which belongs with afternoon or eve
hing costume.
Kolinsky trims many OF the best
Joking ermhe cape collars effectively
end mole and ermine are lovely to-
gether, With what isn't mole lovely?
Not . W. youthful fur. perhaps.
though youth wears II: but 90 supple.
70 lustrcus. go exquisite in color shad-
shss, 80 kind to almost every color
With which one could want to USE 1t.
The limitations Of this fur. though
often attractive, lack much Of the
tone and texture that make the genu-
Inc mole exquisite. and so tho genuine
FUR lose. little OF Its prestige through
'he lavish Use Of the limitations. by
reason Of its extraordinary softness 1t
lends Itself better than any other fur
10 The draped and very full collar ar
fhhgements, and can hardly make
. mistake In giving mole furs to any
or" past g~irlishness.
Among dark furs not extravagantly
hlrh IN price kolinsky In prime favor-
Tf' with skunk for second choice. but
!oA IS, as always. tremendously popu-
lar aid Is offered not only In the con-
Nent!onal animal scarfs but in many
nay Mig shoulder collars as well, taupe
o''d fox being particularly liked for
'l' 'Fpc of collar.
'hrcoon, Hudson seal. beaver and
INC o'Hnipresent rabbit in it's various
"'.fh1linns are the Inexpensive furs
NOS m demand ANY one OF the mod
IN collar shapes, so long az it Is big
'iN round or melon shaped mum
n"h' % "a ~iy SAT" Christmas hazard.
J. "N want. 20 add "A fur hat II will
J b., .nmr modification of the
The sun., 1916-12-10

face by collars OF ALgora in warm.
soft gray or beige or white and have
cuifs of the same contrasting color.
There are separate stock collar and
cuff sets too In gray and in white that
make attractive and practical gifts
and may be worn with colored
sweaters.
The slipover sweater. opening only
enough to allow slipping ones head
through. are having great popularity.
and while the first Of these were not
practical for all kinds OF YEA because
they were slightly low In the front At
the neck the designers have overcome
that difficulty in various ways.
Some Of the newest models have
hiRh-iow collars that may be turned
down to leave the open V or drawn
up and draped high about the throat.
other models are made after the high
neckcd fashion Of ordinary sweaters.
but open down only rs far as the bust
line. Above this line they may be
huttoned or rolled back In fiat collar
fashion.
Some of the brown sweater cap and
scarf sets are particularly nice this
season, soft warm rather deep browns
being relieved by sand or amber or
other light tones. even by the we'll
liked brownish yellows. There are
unusually good greens also among the
seasons woollen things-not the bright
hard green OF the average domestic
shai.;g set. but soft. grayish ana
brownish greens, sometimes fccked
with heather colors. Burgundy. Bor-
deaux, %prunellc have made their way
The sun., 1916-12-10

sorts OF bags, motor trunks. luncheon
cases, &C., that are we'll fitted and have
"A smart air, even II they haven't the
elegance of leather articles and will
q wear 80 we'll.
The high cost OF leather IL particu-
larry emphasized IN foot wear. but
women seem 10 he buying elaborate
dress and street boots as nonchalant,y
az though prices were not soaring.
Eighteen dollars is NJ unusual priC"
for a pair OF good looking dress boots
and $50 10 charged for some boots that
were slj earlier in the season. How
over. light Colored, high heeled and
impractical boots women will have.
and many such boots are. so the sales
folk say. being bought for Christmas
gifts.
AS for slippers. fancy slippers are
always acceptable II can make sure
q their fitting, and there are plenty of
-iippcrs with a say and Christmas!ik"
air. Silver broc2de. gold brocade, satin
embroidered in gold or silver or in
beads, plain satin slippers handsomely
bucklcd, bronze slippers with bronze
buckles. gray suede slippers steel
p idcd-all Of these are dclightfu,. and
q pair VI them tucked into n slipper
Dag Of hrocade and metallic lace are
as dainty n gift as a woman's heart
could desire.
Or perhaps one chooses skating
boots for the gift. They may he had
In white, in pearl gray, as well az In
The sun., 1916-12-10

than any other. being offered at prices
TO suit all pocketbooks.
Now that The bag OF fabric or beads
plays so important a part. the leather
bag Is. as a rule. relegated to sheer
usefulness and assumes "A practical
air. The envelope bags or purses are
still In order. hut there is an incrcHs-
Ing liking for leather bags OF ample
size. bags ma will hold checkbooks
and samples and vanity cases and
even small packages.
II Is far easier to ind this type OF
bag than IL was a year or two ago.
and another type of bag that has
lcaped into favor and will be a popular
Christmas gift Is the overnight bag.
IA little larger than the largest shop
ping bag, fitted with small sized toilet
things and much less bulky than any
thing Of the kind We have had. save,
of course. the motor bag, which r. its
nearest relation.
The fitted dressing case. once an un-
usual luxury OF this side OF the At
lantic. is very generally carried
and may be very costly or compare
lively inexpensive. according rs III"
toilet articles are French ivory or real
ivory or tortoise shell or silver or
gold and as the leather Is expensive
or cheap. though for that matter no
good leather is cheap to-day. Luckily
black cnamcllod duck has been brought
- n perfection that makes II very
present thlr and l. made uu VITO al.
The sun., 1916-12-10

black, heavy but soft, correct from the
sporting standpoint. low heeled. heavy
Soled. laced almost to the toe tips, but
50 smartly cut, $ 70 beautifully made
that they do not suggest clumS!ness.
Add "A pair of skates 10 the pair Of
boots. put both boots and skates int"
% skate bag " cloth ana tIr and y"H
have a cif, that VIII make IN" girl
VINO skates proud and happy.
OF t." WOODEN sports hosiery we have
spoken in another place, and of the
silk hose which are always reliable
christmas gifts there is little 20 tc,l
that is new The fine, plain, n tone
SILK hose arc still the ~fIvoritcs, and
though freakish hosiery comes and
goes the really we'll dressed oma
passes II by.
Boudoir slippers of many kinds are
or interest to the christmas shopper.
and whether one buys felt bedside
shoes or mules Of embroidered satin
or heolcss little affairs OF lace aUd
satin ribbon and tiny silk flow ~
must depend upon the woman who ia
to get the slippers.
The lar" and ribbon tr.fes are dam
~ thiuEs, h~armonizing with the p'-
quaint houdoir caps that are another
popular Christmas gift and with matt
nccs or robes NOR" artistic than sub
stantial. but for comfort and actual
service satin Turkish slippers Of good
quality or. better still, the satin slip
per somewhat TX" A Turkish slipper
The sun., 1916-12-10

but the prettaess must be OF the sort
suited To- the woman who Ii to wear IT,.
We've been gradually educated TO the
cult OF the negligee; but, even now, the
average woman has no use for the
cphcmcrai trifie of net or chiffon or
lace. trimmed in ribbons and tiny silk
flowers. that is usually the first thing
shown when one asks for an attractive
matinee.
There must be many. many women
who wcar these things or canny mer-
chants would not provide them in such
quantities. but n mus he sure hat
the woman to whom such "A negllgee
goes is the type Of oma who will
wear II. If she isn't. give her some
thing that viii provide at least an APP
probable degree OF warmth and does
not 50 loudly call for a French bou-
doir setting.
The sun., 1916-12-10

across the ends. They are extraordi-
narily practical and comfortable YER
sions of the old time hug me tight and
II In a pretty color, look very wei
when a coat front is opened.
Any woman can knit one aOd the
cost is slight. while they can be worn
under a o that would not allow the
bulk OF a sleeved sweater. One version
Of this scarf. worn at "a country club
recently, was In white Angora and in
the centre front OF the clinginG girdle
like section was embroidered a gay
futuristic nosegay OF many bright coll
ors. The dash OF color and the ground
OF fuzzy white were as effective as q
chic waistcoat when the coat OF the
blue sports suit was thrown open. The
cap OF white Angora had for trimming
an embroidered motif like that on the
hat.
The sun., 1916-12-10

II isn't so easy 10 get the practical
matinee that is AZ the anne time
dainty and coqucttish. but such things
a. exist.
There are. for instance, delectable
IT 70 sacks OF the supple, lustrous.
rather heavy wash satin-hut bcwnr"
uf taking liberties with the washing
qualities Of this matorial-lincd. for
extra warmth, with china silk or Alba
tross cloth. trimmed In soft. creamy
lace that. like the satin, will wash
tied with ribbons. Mad" on flowing.
"-'ceful lines in an ~cNquy..t" light
color. such a matinee should satisfy
even a coqucttc. and Yet 1t is comfort
abe and. as compared with many Of
the things offered. practical
Trimmed in swansdown. tho satin
matinces are pretty and becoming. hut
less utllitarian. and on the whole the
The sun., 1916-12-10

And while one talks of woollen things
for sports wear. the woollen sports
hose must not be forgotten. Looking
at the high heeled. pointed toed. light
colored boots in which a majority of
the women go teeter tottering up and
down the avenue, one marvels at tho
temerity OF the merchants who display
the thick, soft. fine hose Of wool.
hecked or plaided or plain with plaided
tops; but smart skating boots are az
practical as street boots are unprac-
teal and these woollen sports hose are
definitely OF the mode.
When one turrs 10 gifts for inside
wearing. the casual friend is likely to
choose some usual hit OF ~frivolity: but
where intimacy permits. the depart
mcnts Of negligees and underwear offer
inspiration for givers.
Any woman loves a pretty matinee.
The sun., 1916-12-10
LEATHER WASTE VALUABLE.

c HOES are goinr up physically ard
y the price too Is mounting. The
manufacturing says that the cost
II labor Is crcr'Nr aud that leather =
daily becoming scarccr. Yet II has
o"en pointed out that scrap leather
might easily ~ turned into a source IL
revenue hat would lower tno COS, "
producing boots ouG shoes
Any II who has been In a shoe
factory knows how abundant Is thu,
scrap and how apparently hopeless,
seems to no the problem OF making
profitable us" OF the stuff. \ chemical
establishment In Alsacc has lately dis
covered an un~susp"ct"i use for this
leather waste.
Much has been written IN tho pas.
few months about the extraction of
nitrogen from the air md the nced Of
nitrogen for explosives and for tho ro-
plonishm'n' pr m. sod I'm tho Holds.
THIS AlS"fi9u .ncarn has Ievcloped a
uroyoS, hv winch leather scrap can hr
Transformed INTO n highly valuable
pi~tros,uoH- t,I'i,.l,r. Vt the same
tim" In making This fertilizer II il pos
s.hle To recover from the waste leather
something hh. 20 per cent. OF its
tann.u.
The process IS Thus du,hly hcuen, .al.
In the first p.l.,. leather scrap from
which the taunn lt- not hcrn eN-
tractcd Is of comparatively li''lc value
as n fertilizer. hut when the waste
material is freed ,f its lHnuIu II be
comes a very l,lntl source of nlur,
The sun., 1916-12-10

The color Is the crux Of this matter.
however. Imports are unreliable and
stocks already sadly depleted. Do
nestle offerings. while good looking IN
line and detail. are. II must be ad-
mi,ted, far from satisfactory In color.
The tones gre az a rule hard and
crude and unbecoming. and many
women are because of this fault turn
ing to the all white sets. which in
soft ieecy wool are more becoming
and look uncommonly well, even II
not no gay.
The same difficulty In the matter Of
color Is making itself felt In connec-
ton with sweaters. The silks seem
to offer softer tones. possibly because
the imported stock both Of sweaters
and thread. being more expensive, has
not melted away quite so rapidly as
have the woods.
The sun., 1916-12-10

swansdown rhymes better with the
chiffon or G~corcettc models.
Adorable little sacks like extra
loose, straight slipover blouscs are
made M in the Simplest OF velvet bro
cades. In silk hrOcades co.. and fin
ishrd with lines Of fur or narrow
binding of plain color or metallic braid,
and these are picturesque and COM
Portable, though not OF the very prac-
teal Clnsa. because they do not cleanse
easily and viii not stand overland
wear. They look. TOO. more like ar
tistic drawing room garh than like
bouduir attire for any ordinary woman
and belong in tho class with the WON
dcrful Fortuny robes, Of which more
another time. such robes must not
trail at the end OF a dissertation on
Augora sweaters and woollen skating
hose.
The sun., 1916-12-10
\, ELEANOR HOYT BRAINERD

'OHElSTMAS shopping began
cIri.r than usual this
~ season. Some Of the shop
p.rs were moved by consideration
for ~salcsfolk. some by realization
rat they themselves would have
N easier time at the beginning
II the fray than in the full heat OF
,a,tle. and man. by current warn
ncs that hccausc of uncertainties and
,mpossihi.ities affecting importations
,he worms would most distinctly be
for the early birds this Christmas time.
&c, though the turmoil began early
Z. shows every sign OF lasting late.
and the fact that things offered for
.,le are on the whole higher In price
ne slightest effect upon the shopping
fever
The furr!ers are having a good sea-
pn even though the weather clerk
has persistently turned a deaf ear to
their requests for Arctic temperature.
There has been more than the usual
ehange In both fur coats and I'm III
furs. and though handsome conven-
%,onally shaped furs Of highest quail
Ms are always beautiful enough to
nave distinction the less expensive
The sun., 1916-12-10
Big, Soft Draped Collars Have Taken Women by Storm
Very Smart Sweaters for the Skater
Attire for the Boudoir

\ beautiful silk sweater or even n
separate scarf In silk IL "a gift sure
to prove acceptable IL chosen In q
color becoming to the receiver. but
for wear without a coat when the en-
ve!oping top coat is left behind at the
edge Of the ice the soft fieecy woollens
are the thing. Some OF the prettiest
of the bright hued sweaters. particu-
larry those Of wool without the fuzzy
nap Of Angora. are softened about the
The sun., 1916-12-10
FURS, SKATING TOCS AND NECLIGEES -
ALL TEMPT THE CHRISTMAS SHOPPER 80

The scarts knitted Of wool longer
and narrower than the average neck
scarf, and worn straight around the
body under the arms. crossed In the
back over the shoulder blades. with ar
end drawn forward over Zach shoulder
and down to tuck under the girdle Sec
ton. are made this season not only in
plain colors but with narrow contrast
ing borders or with contrasting stripes
The sun., 1916-12-10

Russian turban with a tall brushlike
front trimming or a fiat jewelled me-
tallic or embroidered ornament. and
here again mole Is omnipresent. No
other fur lends itself 20 well to an en-
tire hat. but the other pelts are COM
bined cleverly with velvet, satin, an
tique cloth. &C.
Skating toys Of all kinds are In order
this Christmas. provided the woman
In question skates. and most Of the
younger women do skate, along with
all the girls.
Fur skating sets. including cap, COL
lar. mum and possibly skate bag, are
offered In the popular furs. but OF
course are II successful somewhat
expensive. SO are the smartest of
the fur trimmed chenille, cloth, velvet
and angora sets. yet there are delight
ful things not prohibitive In price. and
when one turns to the wool sets OF
fine angors. brushed wool. &C. II Is
possible to find very attractive sets at
comparatively low prices.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-07-06
GREEN FUNERAL
IS SIMPLE
Only Children and One Friend
Follow Woman Financier
10 Grave

BELLOWS FALLS. Vt. July o.
Tim body of the worlds riches,
woman" Mrs Hetty Green, was
buried here shortly after noon ON
Thursday. with the most simple
ceremony Under plain granite
shaft which IS inscribed with only
The family name. the woman hnan.
cicr's body rests beside rha: OF her
husband who died IA years ago.
Burial was in the family plot beside
the Emmanuel Episcopal church
Accompanied by Col. r.. III. II
Green, Mrs Green's son. Mr. and
Mrs. NJ - WilkS, son-in-law and
daughter. and Mrs Herbert II Ban
croft. a lifelong friend. tho body ar
rived. an hour late. from New York.
The caskct was vnry plain. white
carnations. resting on a cover 80
hroadcloth. Rev Alfred C.. Wilson,
The rector. conducted the services.
All the attendants accompanied the
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-07-06

BIZ WYRON W. GILLETTE
1stnn Correspondent Detroit Tines
CRAWLING, Mich. July 5.-tor'f
lads from the Detroit University
school. some OF them little more
than tots, who are camping at MV..
let lake. near CheboyRan, for eight
weeks. gave the soldiers an ezaui
ton here yesterday afternoon mat
opened the eyes % many. Marching
from the train 10 brigade headGu9r
tiers. the youngsters were warulr
greeted along he route Thor
drum and bugle corps is one ~
any regiment might well envy
One OF the youngsters 20 'tr
party was Daniel Smith. son o. Ma.
Daniel W. Smith. Of Lansing ADS
Gen. OF the Michigan brigade &c.
with about half regiment
cheered the boys upon their arrival
and escorted them with a moIo'ed
detachment through the camp THE
boys In the party were \ AIoafa,
n. Bingham, c. Black. R Campte
&. Coquin, J. Coates, u. 'oI'. J..
Doyle. c. Donnelly. y DOW x u.r
ham. r. Dryer. Edward, V. El'
man, r. Evcrham, " Gilbert j.
Glass. G.. Guishert. ". Hickey, D.
Hinchman. J. Hinchman, VI KrU
nedy, r. Klippel, 5 Iarimer V. Ny
ers. A. Mcdonald. d Kelsey. r Nc
Weigh. C. Palmer, J Palmer q
Ray, W Ray. J. Remick, : ROBIN
son. Donald Ross. Davis Ross G..
Schenck. \. Sissman, -. Smith, g..
SLOVENIAN. f. story, X Thomas. VI
Ulman. W. Walker, J Walton x
Watcrworth and G. Waterworth. Tho
party was IN charge OF Major Trnes
! dell and six lieuterants
Company funds Of the Thirty-hrst
regiment with the departure FOR
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-07-06
Vdnderlip's Broken
Toe Costing Street
$40 Per Minute
BY UNITED PRESS.

NEW YORK. July Sit is cost
ing wall-st. about $50 for every
minute Frank A. Ysnderlip's big toe
keeps him at home. The toe was
fractured when the president OF the
National City bank took a jump into
his bathing pool up at Scarborough
the other day. Vanderlip was told
he would have to stick around home
for several days-maybe 10. In the
meanwhile, because Vanderlip cant
get downtown TO give his personal
attention TO il. all negotiations for
the new 100000, 600 French loan are
being held up.
Figuring six per cent on this
sum. vanderlip's little fracture OF
the big toe and the 10 days at home
will really be worth about sl64.2s0
In interest lost.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-07-06
G. Q. ?. SPLIT on
REVENUE BILL
Many Republicans eSert
S.andpatters On New
Measure
EY United PRESS

WASHINGTON, July t-Three
Republican ucu b,rs OF the ways
and mean. commijtco toda. desert
"a thc stand pa leadership 81 Rep.
FCrdnc,. OF saginaw. and voted VITA
che Democrats IN favor Ca reporting
The Democrat revenue BIN to the
house liza. passo-, Rep Furdncy
made a Woaun Cor n adverse rruog
IN tho EymorraIc measure aut the
only Republican committeeman WIN
-uppoyt,d him we've the dycdip-the-
wool staulfaucrs Reps Moore, of
PENNSYLVANIA, Green OF Iowa and
sloan ur y, ra "a. Those R,puoh.
cans uHo voted with tho democrats
were Reps. Hin ct Connecticut,
lgsworh. of Ohio. CaIdn'r OF
Nt--a, us,tt> Republican ranks
have .v,u split wil, open by the
I,worrltlc rttgnso bill Many OF
be H.. .l,.an congressman intend
,o vua Tor .s, m,t.ur, iu their
pa-'y haa.r Rep James X Mann,
ls- auunrl,ai bus intention 10 tgh.
ST., p...u.. ..ou Tho moment II IS
taken cap tomorrow unit the final
ron eau This NH place a larse nuGv
ler OF rhc minority members in Jta
position OK haNms deserted tacc
care. g..s
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-07-06
Pa,nfinders Enter Protest.

The ra.hriuders club has taken
action Oh me proposed execution oi
SIP Roger Easement, the Irish pa
ra-. and has sent Telegram ~
protest. 20 President Wilson as ioi
lows Whereas. the press has.
SINCE our last meeting. advised '1"
world OF the conviction and scam
sentence for treason OF Sir RaEg
Easement. and. whereas We ar, "0
principle most emphatically opposed
ro capital punishment and psr.iru
hr'y 20 the execution OF this man
who has done 80 much FOR an man
kri. therefore, be Il resolved. tha
8 is he unanimous sentiment ot THIS
club that Sir Roger Easement should
no, De- executed and De 81 further
resolved tina, We petition his eN.
cyll.rcy. Hon Woodrow Wilson. q.
exert hrs utmost influence rs a clu-
zen ~ The world. and ths pre- .d'rt
of his great free nation 90 pre- ems
such execution. and be b. further
resolved thar copy Of these rcso.
mgons BE- spread upon thc minutes
~ This organization. and copy or
SEN, 20 his exceiiency. The Hon.
Woodrow Wilson. by telegraph
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-07-06
GoIviIle indian Reservation
upsn to Settlement IuIy 5 to II

Uncle sam g. offering bus r.tzaus
au 0gpor.gu.tF POO Co.. r. good t,ue IN
tho opcn.ra OF rf f..rf ION I'M
Eastern Washington Rra ration
points ago SPOKANE nr VIM VIII
lgf B.. rbc mos. direct au1 logical
gateway 'J 'an reservation 10 f.
NOR, acr. ib. f9 J0 u.d 30 be-
opened than aa other pl.r Wilbur
o. also tsr r,aiquarfrr af .Fr o.. S.
CouW,. .orrr % psb.r Lands.
Drawing viii take place t pakane.
Wn july - Low round .-Ip fares
viii b, on sale 'p RegsuHp Points
a. VclO a5 Eorfh Pacific CO.'S points
via The Northern lac4o EaiIway.
Write tor roscrtdiIr. iJF.f. rates
and information ro g. j Hricktr.
General Immigration tr.t. SIS
Northern Pacific Railway. ST. Paul.
MINI T. F. Ryan. D.fupt pauen.
ger hgeut. Room I23. Majestic Bldg,
Detroit Mich Phone Main 332.-
Adv
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-07-06
wuIskrY KILLED nm.

Md u viii ruin ar XIII any man
that keeps drinking ~. DO YOU want
to get rid OF the drink hahitf ! can
helm YOU / was victim of drink
aud was absolutely and permanently
cured bN an effective, reliable homo
remedy. the formula aud rights !
rurphnsed and made within the reach
az every human being burdcn"d W. D
thu curse uf drink. VI causes uo sick
ness or remaining away from wori
or business Il also builds M and
Str,uuthons and tones the system. II
completely removes all craving, d.
sire or taste for or need for stimu-
lants 90 any kind An alcoholic po.-
son is AZ ongr eliminated y" mat
ter whether you are periodical
moderate or occasional drinNcr or
hphjtual druukRrd J can Favc YOU. II
Won have y friend who drinks writ"
me ~ one who appeals 10 me VIII
he overlooked OF neglected An cor
rtSpoudnurr confidential. can rrfer
YOU TO hundreds OF people right m
Chicaso II YOU houostlN drslre -
be forever fr"e from the curse ~
driUk here is an opportunity YOU
should noe overlook Address J. a.
Frar,f, sos south Iraruorn-st.. ca
cage. IN ADV.