Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

and the transport wagons. In the
streets the crowds were cheering Denys
Cochin. the special ambassador from
France. He made speeches to them
from the balcony of our hotel. and the
mob waved flags and shouted, "Zito!
Tito" / once wrote the same scene
and placed it in the same hotel in
Athens in Il play Col. Savage pro-
duced. In Athens the local color was
superior to ours, but George Marion
stage managed the mob better than
did the Athens police.
Athenians Are Perplexed.
Athens was in a perplexed state of
mind. She did not know if she wanted
to go to war, or wanted peace. She
on which side she wanted to fight.
People told you frankly that their
heart beats were with France. but
that they were afraid of Germany
IF Germany WINS" they asked,
what will become of us? The Ger
mans already are in Monastir. twenty
miles from our border. They have
driven the Serbians, the French and
the British out of Serbia and they
Then. why don't you go out and
fight for yonr king" 1 asked.
He won't let u.s." they said.
When the army of a country is mo-
bilzed it is hard to understand that
that country is neutral. You expect
to see evidences of her partisanship
for one cause or the other. But in
Athens, from shop window point OF
view, both the allies and the Germans
are equally supported. There are just
as many pictures of the German gen
erals as of Joffre, as many post cards
of the German emperor as of KING
George and King Albert.
After Paris. it is something of sur
prise to see German books. portraits of
German statesmen. composers and mu-
sicians In one shop window. con-
spicuously featured. evidently with in
tent, is an engraving showing Ma
poleon III surrendering to Bis
marck. In the principal bookstore
books in German on German victories
and English and French pamphlets on
German atrocities stand shoulder to
shoulder. The choice is with you.
Signs of War on Every Hand.
Meanwhile on every hand are the
signs of nation on the brink of war;
of armies of men withdrawn from
trades, professions. homes: of men
marching and drilling in squads, COM
panies, brigades. At times the columns
were so long that in passing the win
dows of the hotel they would take an
hour. All these fighting men must be
fed. clothed. paid. and while they are
waiting to fight. whether they are goat
herds or piano tuners. or shopkeepers.
their business is going to the devil.
And their families and employers are
limping along as best they can with
out them.
We left Athens on the first boat that
was listed for Saloniki ! should have
hQy NC
on her. During many years on various
vessels in various seas, she was the
most remarkable Every Greek loves
to gamble; but for some reason, or for
that very reason, for him to gamble
on shore is by rules and laws made
very difficult. In consequence, as soon
as the Hermoupolis raised anchor she
became gambling he'll.
There were twenty-four first-cfass
passengers who were in every way
first-cIass; Greek officers. bankers, mer-
chants and deputies on their way home
to prepare for the coming election. and
their time on the steamer from ii
each morning until 4 the next morning
was spent in dealing baccarat. When
the stewards, who were among the few
persons on board who did not play
tried to spread a tablecloth and serve
food, they were Indignantly rebuked.
Anchor Ship to Play Baccarat.
The most untiring players were the
captain and the ships officers. When
ever they found that navigating the
ship interfered with their baccarat, we
came to anchor. We should have
reached Saioniki in a day and half
We arrived after four days. And all
Of each day and half of each night
we were anchored in midstream, while
the captain took the bank The hills
of Euboea and the mainland formed
a giant funnel of snow, through which
the wind roared. 1T swept the ship
from bow to stern. turning to ice the
woodwork, the velvet cushions, even
the blankets. Fortunately, il was not
that kind of a ship that supplied sheets
or we would have frozen in our berths.
Outside of the engine room. which was
aft, there was no heat of any sort,
but, undaunted, the gamblers in caps
and fur coats, their breath rising in
icy clouds, crouched around the table,
their frozen fingers fumtling with the
cards.
There were two charming Italians on
board. a father and son-the father
absurdly youthful. the boy incredibly
through the Levant. They watched the
game, but did not play. The father
explained this to me MY dear son
is born gambler" he said. so. in
| J
I will not play until after he has gone
to sleep
Later the son also explained. "My
dear father" he whispered, els an in
veterate gambler So. in order that I
may reprove him. l do not gamble-at
least not until he has gone to bed"
At midnight left them still watching
each other. The next day the son said.
II got no sleep last night. For some
ason, my dear father was wakeful.
and it was 4 o'clock before he went to
his cabin
Snow-Clad Walls Overlook Gardens.
When we reached Volo the sun was
shining. and as the day was so beauti-
| full, the gamblers decided they would
remain on board and play baccarat
The rest of us explored Volo. On the
mountains above it the twenty-fou
villages were in sight, nesting on the
knees of the hills. The redtiled houses
rose one above the other. the roof OF
one on a line with the doorstep of the
neighbor just overhead. Their white