Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-11-05

headdress that was built up Of every
thing the wardrobe contained. to judge
from the pictures of them that remain.
We have gone backward farther than
usual this season for an inspiration for
new fashions, and the artistry and
variety of the centuries that reached
upward from the Norman conquest to
the days of Catherine de Medfci have
been overhauled to make an American
costume.
So these co1lapsible hats are taken
from the period when men delighted to
wear the brilliant plumage. Francis
I was a king who knew a good hat
when he saw one, and Henry " had a
dashing taste in choosing headgear
Over the fat face of blum King Hal
there sat a collapsible hat with white
plume. and coming nearer our own
times the grand monarch liked to cover
his head with soft hat and a sweep
Ing feather.
It was to all these potentates that
Paris went for the hats we are now
trying to adjust to our twentieth cen
fury faces, and the result is not at all
bad. The soft crown is usually of vel
vet and pulled into whatever shaping
the features of the face demand. The
inglorious tam was only a forerunner
of the most expensive hat of this win
ter. 1t led the way to vast assort-
ment of crowns that are formless and
usually without ornament.
The height is an important factor
but it is governed by the Individual. If
one elevation is not attractive the
into another. Such manipulation is the
delight and the despair of women.
Whatever else the crown may be in the
new shapes it is not low or round. If
l.; = hn h xrytr
crinoline, but the material is not
mounted over a strong foundation as in
other days.
1t is the irregularity of the crowns
that gives the seasons hat its peculiar
suitability to faces that appear hard
and almost repellent under hat that
goes around in an even circle, Ignoring
the shaping of the features beneath.
The blessed part of the whole bust
ness is that the definitely small hat is
not the ruling shape, although it stands
in good favor. There is a strong lean
ing toward exclusive shapes that re-
mind one in a joyful manner of Du-
mas Three Guardsmen. D'Artagnan
may have worn a hat that Suzanne Tai
bot has turned out for American
women.
after the grand monarch and bear
names that take US back to days when
fighting was the breath of man and
countries went to war as they went to
II.
French woman is adopting felt with
far more enthusiasm than we are; pos
sibly because Of the price of velvet and
all materials sold by the yard. When
satin is $40 q yard and velvet from $40
to $40 one does not turn to it readily
for headgear.
1t is highly probable that we will
wear more felt as the season advances
than we thought was advisable at the
beginning of the season. OF course,
velvet stands as the first choice, but
there are thousands who are wearied
already of this fabric which sweeps
and pertinacity of a plague Of locusts
as soon as August reaches its maxi
mum heat. At any rate, these sweep
ing felt hats of the musketeers are re-
must present something excessively
fascinating to catch our coins as this
month progresses.
#<S
The shaping of the musketeer hat is
exactly what one expects. There are
no surprises. History repeats itself
The piumage is differently arranged.
however, from the great floating feath-
er that was considered part of the cos
tumery in that epoch among men.
Several short plumes are used instead.
These are laid over the crown that IS
denied into a careless shaping with
the hands. Usually the colors are smoke
gray and deep sky blue. which are
guaranteed to mingle happily and live
together in long harmony.
Another hat that pleases the woman
who cries aloud for a touch of strange
ness in millinery is the peacock affair
suggested by the fashion for eastern
costumery that shows itself in the
usage of Cashmere shawls. palm-leaf
embroidery, Hindoo chemise robes and
Egyptian evening gowns with embroid-
cry copied from century-old mummy
cases
This hat is also exclusive. 1t is like
a tilted saucer. The top surface is in
one piece, rising bit in the middle.
The brim leaves the head entirely after