davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

generous dimensions. The straight
collar is draped about the throat.
An extremely elaborate evening
gown, the inspiration from which
plainly comes from the period of the
second empire is made Of a rich brocade
combined with silver lace. The bro
cade forms the low bodice and pam
nier skirt which is short at the sides
and front but long at the back. The
lower part of the skirt consists of two
overlapping flounces of the silver lace
which are arranged on foundation OF
white taffeta and this skirt is boned to
give distended effect. The brocade
is very full and arranged in big gathers
at the waist line and it has none of
the fullness Of the earlier period. 1t
takes beautiful lines and folds, the
bodice is simplicity itself, low with
shoulder straps over the guimpe of
lace and the guimpe forms a very
beautifully draped sleeves that fall to
the elbows.
We will not wear hoop skirts. We
never would accept hoop skirts but we
have boned petticoats and we have
various devices for giving the dis
tended effect. These devices mean
greater grace and are marked i'm
provement but the suggestion comes
from an earlier period nevertheless.
An afternoon gown of blue silk and
blue mouselline emphasizes the exceed
ingly ample skirts and also the sim
plicity of cut which makes such an
important feature. The very wide,
straight skirt is of the silk finished
with five narrow bands edged with
picot. The bodice is of the mouseline
with silk covering the lower portion
and the sleeves. which are puffed and
full, show draperies at the elbows
which are graceful and attractive
while the cuffs fit snugly at the wrists.
Tn The silk is applied over the monselline
give a pretty effect. The mousettine
itself is machine stitched with course
blue thread to make most attractive
finish. There is high faring collar
OF pale pink that emphasizes the con-
trast in color that makes such a notable
feature of spring fashions.
We will wear colored blouses and
neck garnitures Of contrasting color.
Colored organdie for separate colors
and vests makes feature of the open
ing displays. and pale pink. light blue
and lavender are the favorite colors.
Blouses of rose color and of blue to
be worn with the odd skirt or with
the tailored suit are conspicuous. Alto-
gether color is emphasized in many
and in notable ways.
Striped materials are conspicuous.
They are found in silk and in wool
and in cotton. Many of them seem
too gay for anything but sports use
and certain materials are being ex-
tensively employed for the making of
winter costumes for skating, for hockey
and for purposes of the sort, but the
stripes also appear in silks and in some
Of the new designs. A costume from
georgette, for example, is made with
skirt which consists of two hounces
showing striped silk cut on the crosses
and these flowers are edged with mar
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

now plating of plain color. The fancy
little coat that accompanies the cos
tune is of navy blue taffeta with the
collar and cuffs of the striped. which,
by the way, is blue and white. Awning
stripes are shown in material OF many
weights. Apparently we are. to have
a season OF stripes and of stripes that
are conspicuous to very great extent.
If these examples are somewhat ex-
IRENE they are Indicative. We may
not see replicas but we will see influ-
ences of the sort at work.
Capes may be looked for in every
possible variation. We see a great
many coats in cape effect, with sepa-
rate capes and with cape collars, and
we see cape collars and little fancy
capes adjusted over blouses. Paris
has chosen garnitures Of this sort for
simple plain costumes to relieve their
severity and often to give touch of
daintiness and perhaps of color. Al
ready many of them have appeared on
this side Of the sea and they are .
generally becoming, so attractive anu
so thoroughly satisfactory that they
are quite sure to meet with ready
approval and response. A charming
one is made of flesh colored mouselline
with narrow frills of tulle and trim
ming of black velvet buttons. It rip
pies prettily over the shoulders and is
finished with one of the high "chin
chin" collars that apparently will
extend their favor into the spring,
For immediate wear sports costr mes
are in demand and wool jersey cloth is
the favorite material. An exceedingly
handsome gol6ng costume. ordered for
Palm Beach. is of that material in
hunters green and the use Of green for
sports of all kind makes something o.
notable feature. The jersey cloth is
light of weight. is pleasant to wear
il takes attractive and graceful lines
and is altogether to be commended.
Abroad it is being used for coats as
we'll as for suits and some of the hand
soonest coats for motoring and travel
ing and the like are made of that ma
terial. 1t is to be noted in white as
well as in color and white skating
suits are much in demand, but for
SoilIHS dlIu iOI SpOIlS Vi tllc MIN ttt
the Southern resorts. green is an UNI
questioned favorite.
Striped Jersey cloth is among the
new materials too. An exceedingly
handsome suit is made of that MAJ.
terial with a plated cape across the
shoulders that is novel and inter.
esting A costume designed for
motoring, for travelling and for occa-
sions of the sort is Of wool Jersey in
white with trimming of red. The
gored skirt is all white. The Ca
shows plaits under the arms and IS
edged with band of red and finished
with double cape of the same. which
makes very good effect while the /
cuffs that finish the full sleeves are Of !
the red also. The combination is any
effective and a picturesque one and
the costume serves to illustrate the
very great favor which is shown the
jersey cloth. s...-..
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19
LATEST FASHION NOTES
from the FASHION CENTRES

NOTWITHSTANDING the fact
N that February is the month set
tor the most important French
openings, new models are arriving by
every steamer and all sorts of predic-
tions as to what will be fashionable for
the spring are to be heard where dress
is subject of discussion. Apparently
there is nothing radically new. De-
signers have rather reverted to earlier
periods, making new out of old by
additions and by applications of later
developments. 1890 and 1915 influ-
ences are traceable, also VIC find some
of the influences of the earlier French
periods Louis XIV and XVI. One
might almost say that each designer
has period of her own, in any case the
\ designers are free to adapt and to
ad Just and to make something new
out Of what has been with such taste
and discretion as they have at COM
mand. The very very wide skirts and
the great abundance OF material used
in theses advance models come, with
something of surprise. Europe is
cconomizing. Women of social stand
ing are not rushing into extravagances
III dicSs. WuctucI VI IlOI IucSG COS
tunes which require yards upon yards
Of costly material will gain a hold
there is a problem; that we will accept
them is likely to be true. They are
pretty and they are attractive and
questions of economy are not consid-
cred as closely on this side of the sea.
There are really wonderful materials
and wonderful combinations. and
there is such clever adaptations that
practically the designs are new, let
them be inspired by what period of
the worlds history they may. In the
earlier time they had no such variety
of fabrics as we have today. Methods
of stiffening were crude compared to
our own. We have improved, we have
modified and we are being shown some
thing that is really our own and that
is attractive, in the extreme.
A quaint and interesting gown that
comes from the house Of Jenny illus
trates several of these points besides
being attractive in itself. 1t is made
Of one Of the new faille silks which is
beautifully soft combined with chiffon
and is delicious blue in color. The
skirt is very wide and full, straight and
gathered of the chiffon trimmed with
graduated bands of the silk. but it is
arranged over fur petticoat of orchid
pink taffeta and this taffeta is stiff
enough to give quite the effect of crino-
line without any of it's rigidity. The
bodice is buttoned down the front and
is entirely of blue taffeta. 1t is drawn
into girdle and below the girdle and
across the front there is plated ruche
Of orchid pink ribbon with a picot
edge. The back is left plain. The
ong sleeves suggest the leg of mutton
idea but are not exactly in this style.
Below the elbows they are of chiffon
banded with faille, above they are of
the taffeta. The bodice is plain. 1t
suggests the 1890 period but it does
not fit with the snugness that belonged
to that time. 1t is loose enough to be
becoming and it leaves waist of
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19
GIRLS AND CHILDREN

unprecedented variety there deal Of talk about
the conditions but difficult discover real lack
Undoubtedly and brown shades will bc
and there be few coos difficult obtain but the
output beautiful varied and practical and what could
desire.
The wonderful color effects that shown have been
commented again and again but this really oudoc
all predecessors in that There wonderful coos
be shown in cotton gabardine there silk and notable
feature of prevailing fashions be found really bright
color used trimming with quicter that feature
portant r 4~ 4
The group illustrated shows very good designs and ma
excellent suggestions both for indoor and for
School girls always like the MILDLY The the
left 874o novel and attractive and the
extreme, and be used for great many different materials
white linen 1t makes dress for the weather
For immediate would be pretty made of plaid serge with blue
The belted blouse that shown in so17 while MILDLY
gives much the simplicity Of line and
ctve The pockets make novel feature and pockets that
the belts delight the girls heart while they
exceedingly The model will be found good both for
the materials of the present well the future would
up mos; aaSvs cotton gabafdn in pqgs or in gaatea
Norfolk always liked and the norfolk always
becoming The here has pety shaped yoke big
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

of the lining, then Join the outside to
the lining along the lower edges. Seal
lop the upper dyes of the outside only.
Now join the lining to the sleeves with
the seams meeting the seams in the
sleeves and bring the seams that join
them on the right side. Turn the
outside or scalloped portion up over
the lining and over the seams, then
stitch into place at the lower edges of
the scallops. If you are making plain
cuffs without the scallops, you will
seam the outside to the sleeves and
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19
Pattern Laid on
Material So Inches
Wide. M aterials
of Other Widths
will Require
Different Layouts.

The buttons and button-holes make
a very pretty and very fashionable
closing and also they are practical, for
when, the dress requires to be washed
and iraned, it can be opened out fiat
in way that renders it exceedingly
easy to handle.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19
HOW TO MAKE A CHILD'S DRESS

IT IS none too early to be thinking
about the summer frocks. For
Z the younger children nothing is
better than the one-piece style and
this little model make an excellent
example of that style. 1t is plain
little garment, easy to make and easy
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

patch pockets. In the picture, it is
made of navy blue gabardine with
trimming of soldiers blue broadcloth.
The color combination is smart one,
the combination of materials also is
good and altogether the suit is most
attractive.
; OF course coats are needed for the
spring season for we have a great
many cool days and rainy days. There
are three excellent models in the
group, one designed for the older girls
and two for the little tots. The older
girls coat is shown in cheviot and
ckeviot is sturdy sensible good mkl
terial for coats of the sort, but it could
of course be copied in serge or in any
material of a similar sort. The pockets
are novel and the coat is a very loose
and an easy one to slip on. Incl
dentally, it is an easy one to make too
and consequently it has a great many
features to commend it.
The coat with the box plaits is good
both for little boys and for little girls.
For the little girls, it would be closed
from rig hit to left but for the boys,
from left to right. The box plaits
give pretty lines and almost any SEN
sible coating material could be used
for its making. Broadcloth makes
good coats and there is spring weight
wool velours that is very good for
such use. 1t can be had both in plain
colors and in checks.
The coat for the very wee children
is made full below yoke which is
always a pretty feature. In the pic
ture, it is made of colored silk with
collar and cuffs of white, but it could
be used for the washable materials a.
we'll as for those of silk and of the wool. !
1t would be pretty made of drap d'etf
or of cashmere in a good quality or on
any similar material. Glove silks are
among the materials to be much used
this season. The coat of glove silk |
would be very pretty and for warmth
there could be a lining of any needed
weight.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

to iaunder but the pockets are a little
unusual in shape, the belt is passed
through openings made for the pur-
pose and these two features separate
it from the generality and give it
touch of distinction. In the picture, it
is made of white linen and the edges
are scalloped. That finish is very
pretty as we'll as a very fashionable
one and the scallops do not mean
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

great amount of labor, but as matter
Of course, if a simpler dress is wanted,
it can be finished with straight
stitched edges or with bands of ma
terial or with any trimming that may
be liked. There are great many
pretty materials and suitable ma
teTials for this frock. The ginghams
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19
PRETTY SUGGESTIONS FOR THE

livery change Of brings with The
change from winter to spring while is
Illustration, will prove helpful and suggestive " ~
exceedingly smart The
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

sew the second time exactly on the
line of tiny perforations that indicates
the seams.
AS the next step, close the seams of
the sleeves in exactly the same way.
To make the cuffs with the scalloped
finish, cut the Innings just like the out
side Join the ends of the outside and
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

taHcta WITH lace
hounces show
that feature at
tractively used.
1t is a very
smart gown, a
very handsome
gown and at the
same time it is
a simple gown
to make. The
bodice has the
advantage of
being available
for two different
uses. If it is
made with a
yoke and with
long sleeves it
becomes adapt
ed to simple,
everyday occa-
sions. T h e
draped skirt is
made over a
foundation on
which t h Q
hounces are ar
ranged.
The separate
blouse is always
. need. Forbe-
tween seasons
there are q
variety of ma
terials being
used that are
new to the pur-
pose, therefore.
Of especial in
terest. Fine
light weight
wool wolfe and
fine challis are
advocated by
Paris and are
admirable for
certain coca.
sions. Silkvoile
will b added
to the list also
and silk wolfe IL
exceed dinghy
beautiful. The
crepe dc chine,
and tub
silks hold their
own as q matter
Of course and
cotton voiles
and handker-
chief la " ms
make an Inn
portant feature
81 the washable
|abrics. Co..
bred waists are
oeing greatly
exploited, also
white waists
trimmed with
collar
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19
A SELECTION FOR

THE late winter apt be at which mothers are
warmer days that This season offers
really exceptional opportunity for the fashions attractive
and the absolutely simple for simple occasions While
the offering fabrics fascinating the and
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-02-19

md cuffs or embroidered with color. Scalloped
dges. are to be seen on many of the new French
models and bit of color is very pretty and at.
sractive without meaning great amount of labor
All the dropped shoulder effects are fashionable
The costume that shows that feature also gives a
new and good line for vest and includes skirt
that is full at the sides but plain at the front and
Arizona republican., 1916-06-13

FINANCES and
MARKETS
Republican A. p. Leased Wirel

NEW YORK, June 12-(Wall
street.-The reasonable inference to
be drawn from todays market was
that the selection of the republican
national ticket and the virtual col
lapse of the progressive movement
were altogether satisfactory to the
important financial interests of the
country. Stocks opened with a strong
tone. gathering greater momentum
later and extending TO almost all
classes of securities. The further sue
cesses of the Russian armies against
Austria also were helpful factors in
their effect upon speculative senti-
ment. There was occasional recesses
from best quotations and a marked
reduction of activity in the latter part
of the session.
United States Steel recovered It's
long dormant leadership on an ad-
vance of l SIS points to 81 3-S, ac-
companied by huge overturn of the
stock. Other issues dependent in &
measure on future tariff condition!
were significantly active and strong.
Important rails. almost without ex
ception, improved substantially owe
| last weeks final prices
Motors. fertilizers and numerous
unclassified specialties exhibited ir
regular strength. Mexicans were back
ward on Intervention rumors an,
metals Jagged until just before tn
close when 1t rose briskly with Amer
lean Can. The one new high recor,
of the day was made by Americas
Beet Sugar, which rose 4 IA t
81 1-2.
Total sales OF stocks amounted I
1000 shares
Bonds were firm. Total sales pa
value s5,l70,00O.
! U. S. bonds were unchanged o
call
Arizona republican., 1916-06-13
POCAHONTAS STARTS
GREAT DEVELOPMENT

Permanent operations on a large
scale have been decided upon by the
Pocahontas Copper Queen Mining
Co, for its holdings near Mayer, was
the important announcement made
Tuesday by w. H. Skinner, who was in
the city to attend the annual meeting
and election of officers and directors.
This movement has been decided
upon for the reason that the belt on
which are located their interests has
attained prominent rating in recent
months as has been determined by ex-
ploration of the Binghamton, the Cop
per Queen and the Blue Bell, all Of
which are closely located to and sur
round the Pocahontas. The action de-
cided upon at the Pocahontas meet
ing to resume, is due primarily to at
tractive conditions in the old and new
workings and the close proximity of
the custom works of the Gray Eagle
Reduction Co., in affording a market
J of less than a three mile haul Previ-
! Gus operations by the Pocahontas
were attended with an excellent show
! ing in ore bodies, and the gold, silver
and copper values were satisfactory
also.
Arizona republican., 1916-06-13
Tempe News Notes
NEW POSTAL BOXES
ON VILLAGE ROUTE

Another important addition to the
village delivery system in Tempe is
being made this week with the installa-
ton of a half dozen new letter collec-
ton boxes at various corners on the
carriers route. Bids for the job which
were submitted some time ago, have
been opened by the Washington Of
ficals and the oon'lt.ct for the cree
tin'l Of the Ia >es let &c d. G. Buck.
When the six new boxes are up there
will be total Of nine, located at i'm
portant street intersections in town
and within easy access of but block
or two from any residence or business
house. The boxes are being placed at
Seventh and Maple, Eighth and Farm
ers', Eighth and Mill, Eighth and Van
Ness, Sixth and Forest, Center and
Seventh.
The carrier will make the regular
collection from the boxes when he
makes his route in the morning and a
second collection will be made in the
evening just before the outgoing mails
are dispatched.
Arizona republican., 1916-06-13
DROP IN PRICE Of
COPPER IS POSSIBLE

Following the enormous advance that
has occurred in the price of copper a
slight reaction would be no occasion
for surprise, says Geo. L. Walker in
the Boston Commercial
The producing companies are sold
out farther in advance than they ever
were before, however, and there is no
reason in the world why they should
mark down prices, while many reasons
exist to restrain them from doing so.
Sellers of all raw materials try to
protect their customers. They do not
mark up prices except when such ad-
vances are warranted by existing con-
ditions. The copper producers have
sold very large amounts of copper for
delivery as far ahead as the first quar-
ter of 1917 and unless conditions de-
velop over which they have no control
and which are altogether unlikely to
develop, approximately the present
level of prices will be maintained at
least during the coming ten months
or a year.
Arizona republican., 1916-06-13
LOS ANGELES MARKET

Los ANGELES. June 12.-Prices
quoted are for livestock weighed and
delivered off the cars without feed
and water
CATTLE: ION foot cross weight
No. ] steers weighing 900 to 1900 lbs,
s7.h0@790: seconds. s7.00@7.40 thin.
s4.0OT4.50.
COWS AND HEIFERS: No. l
s6.50M7.20; seconds. $5.7566.50; COM
mon thin. s4.50m5.0o.
BULLS AND STAGS: Good, $3.50
$50; medium. s4.50m475.
CALVES: Light weight. $1,000: me
dunn to heavy, $850m9.50.
SHEEP: fper head) Desirable WOO
wethers, ss.5067.n0: ewes. s6.50@6.75;
sucking lambs, s5.75m6.o0.
HOGS: lizard grain fed) $50 to 25(
lbs. ss.37b mS.50: $50 TO 400 lbs, $500
Ms.25: 200 lbs mp. $e.25mS0O.
| POULTRY: Rroilers, 16c to 1Sc
/ fryers. 23c to 25c: roasters. 25c: OLE
cocks. &c; light hens. Ice: heavy hens
poe; light turkeys Csc; heavy turkeys
26c: old ducks, 15c; young ducks, 1sc
young geese, Ice; squads, unquoted.
Arizona republican., 1916-06-13
WICKENBURG AND
SWANSEA PROJECTS
Proponents of Reopening
Swansea w orks and
Building New One At
Wickenburg Have Had
Innings With Committee

With the arrival here today of Ar
thur c. Cole, for many years smelter
superintendent for the Greene Cananea
and one of the top-notch smelter eX
perts of the United States, the course
of action of the Phoenix Chamber of
Commerce with regard to a smelter
at Wickenburg win probably be deter
mined.
A special meeting of the mines COM
mittee will be held at two o'clock this
afternoon, at which time Mr.. Cole will
place before the members proposition,
having as its object the opening of a
smelter for custom ores in central
Arizona.
The Chamber of Commerce has been
active for the past week on the smelter
proposition. 1t has considered the re-
Mobilization of the Swansea reduction
works, and the construction of a smell
ter at Wickenburg. For several rea-
sons, the committee has leaned toward
the latter proposal, as best calculated
to serve the interests of the copper
silver and lead producing districts OF
Central Arizona, and as calculated t.
duu " MdTlCOpd County IL new anu
tremendously important industry
Claims of several sites in this vicinity
have resolved themselves into a con-
sideration of Wickenburg, this conclu-
sion having been reached after f. w
Akin of Wickenburg had presented ar
guments favoring his town as in sew
eral ways the most feasible.
Difficulties that face an organization
movement consist chiefly in securing {
hard and fast agreement with pro-
ducers. to insure tonnage. Argument:
/ in favor of the Swansea project have
| included statements that the region
1 tributary to Wickenburg could produces
no adequate supply of ore, and in re
buttal it has been said that the con
struction of a smelter there would
cause the immediate development o
numerous prospects into regularly pro
ducing properties, and thus great.
benefit the district.
Similarly, proponents of the Swan
sea smelter, which has been out o
commission for several years, urge it
proximity to a large producing field
its ability to handle a great tonnag
! without a great outlay for construc
ton. its real modernness in spite 0
assertions to the contrary and the pos
sibility of having 1t ready to receiv
ores long before a works can be bull
by the Hassayampa