The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-09

AiOCA III nevy Ot1O VhOSo OCAo0
overskirt opens from waist TO hem on
each side to reveal . very full under.
skirt Of dark blue foulard dotted at
rather wide. intervals BY coin dots OF
white.
Striped silk In dark tones II effec-
lively combined with cloth in n Of
the tones by some Of the designers,
but the idea needs to be exceedingly
we'll handled in order to DO successful,
the combining Of fancy and plain ma
terials In q tailored or semi tailored
model having q lamentable suggestion
Of makeovers about It unless the re.
suit is good looking enough to defy
criticism.
Tho p~etticoat front already mem
toned has appealed to many Of the
French designers and frequently Is
merely an inset panel instead Of q
bona fide underskirt. Lanvin. In par
ticular. has exploited this idea and.
with the impracticality Of the artist
who scorns to take matters Of cleans
Ing. &C., into consideration. she has
introduced these petticoat panels in fine
lingerie materials upon dark hued
street costumes. There Is a dark
brown and blue changeable tafYeta
frock. for example. whose straps and
plaitings are piped narrowly. In blue
taffeta-
II has a little shoulder cape Of the
taTeta. with a dainty and unusual
high. rundown collar Of embroidered
muslin. and a narraw inlet panel OF
the muslin extends down tho centre
front OF both bodice and skirt. widen.
ing slightly as It descends. Narrow
bands Of hand shirring and cording
run across this panel for its entire
length.
Another Lanv!n model. sent over for
a private customer, IL on the same
general order as this brown one,
though in details II differs. The ma
terial Is dark blue taffeta and the
front panel Is Of flesh organdy. as
is a big collar bodice that falls low
over the shoulders Of a loose little
bolcro.
some Of the pretticst Of the imported
summer frocks. II no.. the most COM
pllcated or pretentlous. are these
simple models In thin figured silk
crepes chiffon and foulard. the last
mentioned ~masQuerading under vari-
Gus names. but still the beloved, prac.
teal foulard in its very thin rad!um
qualities. White grounds figured In
dark blue have been chosen FOR some
successful models Of this type in crepe
or chiffon: and q little dark blue tat.
feta Is likely to be used as trimming.
Some red and white crepes and
foulards. chiefly in cherry shades, are
successfully exploited too. though one
Cabot group contains a peculiarly un
attractive red and white fou!ard. TIT
beige and very light tan with a limi,
OF green In them are figured effective
ly in dark blue OF black and used FOL
chic foulard or crepe frocks, and ther
there r the striped designs in these
same materials. which are always at
tractive. II not quite 81 popular q.
they were a little while ago.
One of Doeuillet's simplest model.
has been extremely we'll liked and I.
a very thin. crinkly silk crepe Of de-
lightful texture striped in two tone'
Of blue on a white ground. At firs
glance It appears TO be highly nso
p~hist!cated. but examination reveal!
that in the shaping and plating o.
skirt and bodice. sleeve and collar snt
girdle more than the ordinary dress
makers cleverness has been Gale,
into play. There are narrow plated
frills OF blue taffeta for trimming. a
shaped waistcoat girdle OF blue taffeta
and a collar Of sheer white rolls vel
away from the throat at the sides. as
is the way OF many Of the seasons
collars.
This is q short sleeved mode! and
it has plenty Of company in that mat.
ter OF sleeve length. for afternoon