davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18
In Your Guest Room

HERE is little courtesy that any
 guest will appreciate, even if 1t is only the unexpected overnight guest of your husband who may never visit the house again. It is guide for trains. mails, church, meals and any other in formation which the casual guest may desire. all duly printed or written out and framed in some artistic manner. The more elaborate of these guest cards are illuminated like some of the old fashioned texts" and printed by hand with fancy lettering. They may be tilted on a small stand on the desk or dressing table or hung on the wall in
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18
A HAT YOU CAN MAKE

stitch the three together on the right side with contrasting stitching. The stitching may be in even rows around the .brim1 or it may be in fanciful scrolls or points to add trimming touch. A good way is to put the dark silk in the bobbin and the lighter silk in the needle if you are using a light fac- ing for the hat.
 For the crown several ways are pos- sible. A two inch band of buckram may be sufficient to hold >puffed tam of silk, or you may wish to line the tam with a very pliable lining. The crown may be cut in four sections. the points meeting n the center. Sew brim and crown firi.ily together and finish with a bias band of the silk or a grosgrain ribbon. Such a hat needs little trim ming, but ribbon or head cabochon will add just the right touch.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18

, or to make it of c matching color in a different material. Both of these meth ods are practical if the blouse is made at home or by a dressmaker. but when the garment is to be purchased it is not always a simple matter to obtain Just the right blouse. However. the attrac- tive blouse illustrated here shows how the necessary and desirable results may be obtained.
 This is a blouse of two colors Of georgette crape. the darker color easily matched to the suit. The body of this blouse is of the new and interesting shade of rose. and dark blue was cho- sen for the trimming sections. There is an effective treatment of the blue in- terwoven with threads of silver. the silver color further carried out by tiny buttons that trim the sleeve caps and collar.
 Velvet tams are most modish. and the one pictured is black velvet over gray felt rim. Exactly the right trimming is a solitary rose in silvery tones se' squareiy in front.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18

THE vogue of ''ioppy" hats is here for early fall. and 1t is a style that the handy girl may well follow. These so called "hoppy' hats are usually of the satin or velvet variety. and very often the material from the new fall frock may be used in their manufacture.
 A pattern of soft buckram Is first necessary. The brim should be mod erately large, or for the tall girl or the girl with a long enough neck it may be extremely large. After laying this buckram brim on two layers of silk or satin. either of the same color or lighter contrasting color for the facing of the brim, cut the top and bottom covering, allowing enough material for turning in around the edge. Stitch these two together on the wrong side, turn them right side out, slip in the buckram lining and then proceed to
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18
FALL TIPS

As a straw sent out to show Il which direction to look for the win of fashion. there is a new afternoo frock made of plum colored chiffon ant satin. The skirt has an apron iron outlined by ribbon. The sim. tight bod. ice has long. wrinSled sleeves of tn, chiffon. which cling to the arm from shoulder to wrist The decolletage Is slightly low and quite round. l. makes one think that the run1or may be true of the elimination of collars on bodices and blouses in the new gowns and even with separate blouses.
 The French designers are indulgins In round or renaissance neck lines. minus the high. rolling collar which has prevailed in America for over a ~~S
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18
ONLY MEASLES

liquid as long as there is tempera- ture. After that 1t should be ample and nourishing. No meats, not even broth. should be given until the rash has disappeared, and all fruits should be avoided until that time. It is the convalescent period that is fraught with danger. as the bronchial glands are certain to be inflamed. There is always danger of pneumonia. and the patient at that period Is susceptible to tuberculosis. If the patient is chile he must not be allowed to go back tt school until the cough has ceased ant he is well nourished and of norma weight.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18

scarfs, according to authorities. Cara cal is almost impossible to get, so will be scarce. Seal will be as good as ever, and skunk also.
 A good deal of ermine is to. be used in stoles. short capes and tippets, gener- ally without tails: For more fnex- pensive fur. petit gris. or gray squirrel, is to be used in the better qualities. Muskrat, bear and kolinsky-red sable are found as adornnent on the new long coat models.
 The first long winter coat models shown are extremely attractive. They have the same suave shaping that the summer. automobile and top coats have Very extreme models are apparently
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18

HOW often we see young women who.
 after few years in the business world. become careless about their ap-' pearahce and seem to lose interest in everything.
 What is the use," they will tell you. Sabout bothering with every little thing7 7 Work is a ceaseless grind. Who notices whether my hair Is dress cd becomingly or not? These girls take . narrow view of life. Yes. every one notices. Indeed many of the busi- est women in all lines today take a most pardonable pride in their looks anc dress their hair most becomingly.
 The girl who loses interest in her looks. who twists her hair up "any old way" and who looks on life as -ceaseless grind" will, if she ever as- sumes charge of home of her own. develop into 2 most indifferent house. kAAnA--
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18

ness to the scarf. The nun Is pillow shaped, outlined with ermine.
 The other set Is Russian fitch rather elaborately set up. Tails predominate in the composition. and the high scarf is lined with brown chiffon.
 Selecting the blouse to wear with the coat suit is always a difficult under taking, for the reason that this blouse must be pleading and correct, seeming to be part of the costume instead of a thing apart" To fill its mission com pletely 1t must give a costume effect rather than take on an air of detach- ment. About the only way to produce this happy condition is to introduce in the blouse pieces of the suit material
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18
PAINT SPOTS.

TNO remove paint from glass wet the
 spot with strong liquid ammonia, being careful not to let the ammonia run down on the window paint or var nish. After two or three applications scrape gently with a piece of soft wood. then rub with a paper wet with am- monia-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18

up the sides and across the bottom q the curtains about nine inches from tn, edges. Embroider the corners of the bottom of the band in cubes in ths brightest harmonizing color note of th room.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-10-18

some conspicuous place to catch the eye.
 Such a convenience often relieves the guest of asking embarrassing ques- tions and also saves the hostess many anxious moments.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

ness below the eyes is often indicative
OF serious kidney trouble.
Next to the shape OF the lids. the
lustcr of the eyes proves their claim
upon youth. Dim and faded eyes are
tokens of age, though sorrow and
anxiety sometimes dim the eyes OF
women young enough to have still
sparkling orbs. The great enemy to
lustrous eyes is--overstrain. The great
preserver OF lustrous eyes is-rost.
Eyes that work every minute their
possessor is awake fade early. The
fading process Is FASTENED II close,
concentrated work is done by artificial
light. Cultivate the habit of looking
off now and then-away from your
work. Look out of window to the
horizon II you can. II this is impos-
sible allow your gaze TO rest dreamily
on tho farthest wall as though II were
looking off to the horizon.
There Is nothing like ordinary salt
water to keep the eyes clear and free
from infamed rims. Red-rimmed
eyes are hopeless dctractors Of beauty
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

and 1t is pity that so many women
allow such condition to go on with
out doing anything to stop 1T. Plenty
of sleep. day or two of rest from
close work. and n daily bath in very
hot water with n pinch Of salt, should
relieve an ordinary case of red trimmed
lids.
Boracic acid will relieve and
strengthen tired and innamec eyes:
and there is nothing like boracic acid
bath to make the eyes quickly pre-
sentable after a hard crying spell. Use
tcaspoonful of boracic acid to a half
pint of warm water and apply to the
eye with an eye-cup. A good substi-
tute for an eye-cup in an emergency
is an ordinary tablespoon. Pour
enough boracic acid solution into the
spoon to fill it brimful. Press the
spoon up against the eye and open
and shut the eye several times in the
solution. II will not hurt at all and
your eyes will feel rested and relieved.
Massage around the eye should be
given with the greatest care and with
II feather-light touch. The tip Of one
ullStT may be uSeu very uHntly, or
better still Il firm yet soft camel's hair
brush. The stroke should be even
and should be carried in one sweep
from the inner corner OF the eye out
along the lower lid and then back
along the upper lid to the nose again
Vaseline will make the lashes and
brows grow luxuriantly. II faithfully
applied twice a day. Apply with a
very fine brush on the upper and lower
lids near the roots OF the lashes. and
with a fiat, eyebrow brush on the
brows. This brushing OF the eyebrows
will make them appear more slender
and arched also. One may have the
eyebrows shaved now. The narrow
est arched line is left Mt the center Of
the brows. the hairs above and be-
low being shaved close. Eyebrows
meeting over the nose give the face a
harsh, masculine look and the hairs
should be plucked out with tweexers.
The further tho brows run around to-
ward the temples. however. the larger
will the eyes appear.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

Goya costume as worn by Miss Fitziu
the new prima donna who has made
her debut in "Goyescas," is pictured.
1t is made almost entirely of black
lace chantilly in the skirt and the
sleeves and Spanish lace in the man
tilla. Under the black lace gown is a
foundation of bright colored satin.
The black gauze fan is decorated with
brilliant flowers. The lace mantilla is
gracefully draped over the sleek Span
ish coiffure with stiff little ringlets in
front of the ears.
In her "Goya" model put out this
season, Lanvin combines black tulle,
white and crystal beads, and silver
gauZe ribbon. The silver ribbon is
made into rosettes which are caught
against the floating skirt OF black
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

the other couturiers have been trying
TO convince femininity the world round
that Vatican, Louis Seize and Second
Empire style-influence was dominat-
ing fashion this spring. LanYin. quite
properly comes back at them with the
indisputable assertion that Second
Empire fashions are In themselves
Nalesquez types revived In the days
of the Empress Eugene, who rcigned
undisputcd queen of fashion during
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19
GeautX& Eyes

INV beauty of the eyes depends
II upon so many things that II is
scarcely fair to credit the eve
~ itself with being beautiful. Big
eyes. for instance. are not in them
selves beautiful; they may he actually
ugly If they stand out from the face
IN the manner popularity designated
/ pop eyed" The same eyes in an
other head, where the bony structure
is different, might be very beautiful.
II all depends upon the shape of the
lids the size OF the eyc-socket, and
the contour of the cheek bone below
the eye itself ON the delicate shape
OF the lids, their width of opening,
and SO ON. depends the expression OF
the eve.
Therefore, as so much depends on
the shape of the lids the greatest pos
siblc care should bc taken, as youth
passes, TO preserve this line. Age
shows In the eyes when a slight pull
ness begins to reveal itself in the lids
especially in the upper lid.
swollen eyes may come from lack
OF sleep. II your eyes look pufry
and smaller than usual. you may not
notice it in your mirror but will sigh
TO yourself: How old | am gettingi"
Try night or two OF long, sweet sleep
and see what difference IT will make
with your eyes. The beauty" sleep
that comes between nine o'clock and
midnight Is most OF all beautifier
for the eyes, which are thus spared
straining themselves over sewing or
printed pages by artificial light Pufry
eyelids-above the cycs-may come
from gouty condition OF the system.
II your upper lids seem to overhang
the "bow OF beauty" In swollen or
puffy manner-and you are sure YOU
are taking plenty OF slecp-try dieting
n week or so. Abstain from sweets
and from all red meats. Eat plenty OF
fruit Except strawberrios) and drink
plenty OF water. II not we'll estab-
lished, the gouty condition will be
driven away and your eyes will look
younger forthwith. But should the
puffy aal swollen condition be under
the eyes. In the lower lid, hesitate not
about consulting a doctor, for pufnt
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

tulle. banded again and again with
clustered beads. No mantilla accom-
panies this gown. but the huge sleeves
OF tulle suggest the mantilla effect.
This effect Is notable again in the
Lanvin dance frock pictured. Never
were such sleeves as these OF floating
black tulle, and they afford just the
right contrast with the costume of
cream lace. spangles and orange -hued
satin. The Spanish silhouette is al
ways hounced and the flare occurs
at the hip rather than at the waist
line. In this Lanvin model the flounce
OF cream silk lace Is attached AZ tbe
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19
Flame and Orange Replace Pastel Tints of Last
Season Lanvin the Authoritative Exponent of
Spanish Styles Chantilly Lace for Flounces-
Tall Combs Uphold Andalusian Coiffures.

~ old Madrid. where softly sighs
OF love the light guitar" fashion
Is turning now for that indis-
- pensable Something new" with
which TO tempt jaded fancy. With the
premiere of the Granados opera,
"Goyescas." at the Metropolitan Il few
weeks ago a new impetus was given
TO fashion and n new style ideal was
established. Feminine Imagination
was fired Immediately by the possibil-
tiles in Spanish modes, Spanish col
ors, Spanish sashes and Jackets and
allurlng mantillas. and now the dress
makers are rushed to death, applying
black lace over orange satin and
touching up flame colorcd dance
frocks with spangles and purple ro-
settles.
For color is the strong feature In
the Spanish costumes one may riot
in color. rovel in it-have a perfect
orgy of color. No more pallid baby
blues and washed out pinks for tho
brilliant brunette type of woman
whose inmost soul has been yearuinr
for the deep. rich huos that best set
off her beauty Now she may have
n scarlet and orange frock glitterinE
with spangles. and mautilla-wrap Of
black lace over flame silk splashed
with gorgeous blooms
Lan,in sets the Pace N Spanish
Modes.
over in Paris one astutc couturicr
is able 20 say that She forosaw the
coming craze for Spanish costumes
and proves It by a number OF brilliant
frocks and wraps put out early i'm the
season. And while I.anvin has been
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19
Black Lace in Demand.

In "Goyescas." the Granados opera
which tells a story OF old Madrid. Miss
Anna Fitziu as Rosario" wears q
wonderful black lace costume designed
after a Goya painting, "Maja Vestida"
tthe clothed maja) In the Prado
Museum at Madrid. Nearby hangs the
companion painting "Maja Desnuda"
(the unclothed maja) and some rather
laughable misunderstanding have
arisen concerning the maja costume
copied after the Goya painting in the
Prado. 10 be worn on the Metropolitan
Opera House stage IN New York. The
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

all the Spanish opera coming at this
psychological moment to fire feminine
fancy Is but a coincidence.
Perhaps the fetching raiment OF
Miss Geraldine Farrar-now Mrs.
Lou -Tellegen-in Carmen" has had
something to do also in establishing
the Spanish vogue.
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

the Second Empire, many women
turned to Valesquez motifs for cos
tunes designed to astonish the social
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

world. SO It is perfectly reasonable
that Spanish styles should appear with
Second Empire styles now and after
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

AWhIte
a FPOCk with
TOreadOFs
JaCket Of peapIs
an-d TulLe Sleeves
SuG,6SStlNGs
the F1antlILa
Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-03-19

~ old Madrid. where softly sighs
4 OF love the light guitar" fashion
is turning now for that indis-
, 1916-04-15
Censored at Jamaica.)

Paris, April l3th-The War Office last
night gave out the following colnmuniqoe:
Between the rivers Somme and Disc, our fire
silenced that from the enemy trenches west
of Parvillers in the region of Roye. IN the
Argonne, we exploded four camouh ITS at La
File Morte, Haute Chevouchee, aud Vau-
quois. Afte1 some fighting with gre 'ad $,
ve occupied the southern edge of two ctat-
ers in front of our trenches in the sector of
Les Courtes Chausees. West OF the Mense,
the bomhardmeut continues with 9reat vlo-
lence ia the regions Of Hill 304 aud, Dead
Mans Hill. East Of the Meuse and in the
Woevre district, the artillery to-day display
cd less activity and 10 infantry actions oc-
CURED.
Petrograd, April 13lh-Last nights Official
report is as follows: On the Dvina front south
of Dvinsk region. there has been some cam
nonading and rife fire in various places. In
the Lublin region, sou Invest of Pinsk, our
volunteers were successful in various en-
gagements which were undertaken.
London, April 13th-General Headquarters
issued the following yesterday evening: Last
night we made Il successful raid on the enc
my trenches near Richebourg La Avone. AS
a result the enemy suffered several casualties.
West of the Pilkem-Y pres road the enemy
made three unsuccessful attacks. In the first
he gained a footing in our trenches, but was
quickly driven out. The other two attacks
were entirely repulsed, the enemy leaving
about 25 dead in front of our trenches. In
this area we bombarded The German trenches
to-day. There has been considerable artiI-
lery activity northwest of Wytschaete and
Souchez. In this neighbourhood, the Cana
dian troops inflicted heavy losses on the enc
my during last week.
Berlin, April l2th-Oficial: Italian front:
Lively artillery duels are going on in several
sectors. Near Riva the enemy was elected
from several salient trenches and from one
defensive wall south of Peronne. The Italian
attack thus ended in complete failure.
The Hague, April 13th.-According to a
, 1916-04-15

lives, said that he was awaiting full 'n!orma-
ton before taking action, bur that plelimina-
ry Instructions had already been tel4Graphed
to the Spanish Ambassador III Berlin.
London, April 12th.-Sr Edward Grey
stated in the House of Commons yesterday
that the British and French Governments
had presented q memorandum to the rau-
trails who had protested against the seizure
Of enemy property passing through their
ports. He declared that the effectiveness
of an economic blockade vas being main
tanned ia every possible way. AIR. Asquith,
il a speech, described TO the Common the
general result of the recent Paris conference
of the Allies. He said the most inn ortant
results were the r~eattirmation Of the entire
solidarity of the Allies, the establishment of
the identity of their views, and assurances
of unity of action in the prosecution and con-
duct of the war. He said that his visit to
Italy had been signalled by manifestations
on every side of the traditional friendship
between Italy and England, which had been
accumulated by brotherhood in arms.
Ell Paso, April 12th.-A five hour battle
occurred on Sunday between the CarrauSa
garrison at COntreras and the bandits. The
outlaws led after losing 70 killed. -Four of
De Facto Government troops were killed.
Washington, April l5th-SecretatY Lans-
ing stared to-day that Great Britain's note
III reply to Americas protest against the sell
zure of 38 Austrians, Germans and Turks
from the American steamer "Chiua" near
Shanghai does not close the case to the salts
faction of the United States.
Washington, April 12h.-The American
Ambassador to Turkey is expected to sub
NIT his resignation tomorrow. Mr.. Elkua
of New York is mentioned as his successor.
New York, April 18th. According to Wire
less al vices it is understood that the German
reply to the American note in respect to he
sinking Of several steamers says III part that
the steamers "Englishmau" eagle Point"
"Manchester" Engineer" aud "BerwIudvaio'
were destroyed by German submarines IN
accordance with the rules Of war. 4 Ger
mnu submarine did torpedo a ship III the
vicinity OF the spot where the explosion on
the Sussex" occurred out evldeuce available
indicates that this ship was not the Sussex"
london, April 12tn.-Lloyd's to-day an-
nounces The sinking of the Italian steamer
"Union", having been torpedoed by a sub
marine. The new British steamship "Sena-
tor "a vessel of 3,497 tons has also been sunk.
1t is believed that ell hands were saved.
The Brattleboro daily reformer. (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1913-1955, 1916-06-22
NEW CANADIAN VICEROY.
Report That Lord Curzon VIII Sue
coed Duke of Connaught.

OTTAWA, Ont, June 22.-Canada
will have a new encouragement this
autumn if present plans are carried
out. 1t is learned that the duke of
Connaught will likely close his term
as Canadian viceroy some time in the
fall. There is a report that Lord Cur
ION of Kedleston, former viceroy of
India, will be his successor.
The duke of Connaught had ar
ranged to leave Canada in September,
1914, and the prince of Teck had been
announced as his successor. The duke
ana duchess Of CoInaught with the
Princess Patricia had made prepara-
tions for their departure for England
and the prince of Teck was about to
sail for England when the war broke
out. The prince went to the front with
the British forces and is still there.
The duke of ConIaught announced
that he would continue in Canada.
Events are so shaping themselves that
the duke and duchess of Connaught
now see the way clear for their de-
parture from Canada.