davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Denver star., 1916-09-09

on the "blackman."
This last order of his affects
about four hundred colored
employees. among which are
about clerks. The disgrace
full thing about it is that white
laborers and white messen-
gers are (by virtue of this or
der given to understand that
they are above the applica :
ton Of same simply because
of the complexion of their
skin
HuMILIArING CONDITIONS.
The present condition. tho
youthful in age. is already
very humiliating to men who
would believe that they are
citizens of the United States.
During the preparedness par
ade held here in June some
person circulated printed
cards all over town. signed
"Justice" with these words:
The American Negro
watch him. First in
war, first in peace, and
last in the preparedness
parade
Compare this verse with
verse with conditions which
have existed in the past two
months. namely:
Bringing up the rear Of the
preparedness parade by Ne
groes;
Slaughtering sacrifice made
made at Carrazal:
Lynching ol innocent Ne
groes in the South:
Recent introduction of Jim
Crowtsm in State, War and
Navy departments; and it will
be agreed that the writer of
the card referred to gave a
most felicitous and concise
expression of facts.
The Denver star., 1916-09-09
TURNS LIGHT ON
BOURBON SOUTH.

NO stronger light could be
turned on the bourbon South
the gross injustice existing
there from a political point Of
view, than the appended let
ter received by the Amster-
dam News from Hon. Joseph
Z. Manning, of Birmingham.
Ala. who has been touring
the North for some years try-
ing to expose this condition.
Mr.. Manning is a former
member of the Alabama leeis
lature and former postmaster
OF Alexander City. In his
letter he says:
Senator Tillnan. of South
Carolina, is reported to have
wePt while in a speech last
week in the Senate. He de-.
plored the sectionaIism of Mr..
Hughes in referring to the
domination of the Southern
democracy of the general gov
ernment.
rs it sectional to state that
while there are 1es,7oo white
and 335,o46 black male c,ti-
zens of voting age in South
Carolina that this State poll
ed 48. 1856 votes for Wilson, Is
It sectional to state that never
congressman are elected on a
like vote?
Alabama elected Senator
Underwood on $4,000 votes.
This State has 400, 900 black
and 100000 white male citi
zens Of voting age. Iowa. a
State having about equal the
population of Alabama, elect
ed Senator Cummings on a
vote of 2o5,832. while the vote
for all candidates totaled 427.
Io2. The vote for all candi
dates in Alabama was S1,137.
THE reason for the condi
tion in Alabama is that laws
are passed to prohibit a fair
ballot and in Iowa all citizens
may vote and have their votes
counted as they are cast.
In Alabama. as in South
Caolina, there is a o olitical
repression by a political party
In Iowa there is political free
dom.
1T is not sectionalism to r.
cite fact.
There were those who
cried sectionalism when slav
cry was attacked.
This issue is up to Mr..
Hughes and he should not on
ly talk of sectional domino
tion of the government by the
Southern democracy, but he
should show how and why this
oligarchy is in the saddle in
the South as we'll as ruling
the entire American people.
The friends Of human
rights ought to see to it that
this issue is heard and that
these wrongs be corrected. 1t
is not enough that this regime
be overthrown at Washington.
Their political deviltry ought
TO stop in the South.
joseph c. MANNING"
The Denver star., 1916-09-09

The Star believes in, and therefore supports the
Hon. Chas. E. Hughes for the Presidency.
We are supporting Sam D. Nichoson for Governor
because he has, can and will make good
We are supporting VIM. Dickson for u. S. Con-
gresham because believe he will represent all
the people.
We are supporting John W. Gillespie for District
Attorney, because he is fearless capable and honest
and stands for human rights.
James C. Starkweather William M. Robertson and
Leon Hattenback are our candidates for State
Senators.
The Star asks that you support the above friends.
The Denver star., 1916-09-09
WILSON SlAPS At RACE
Jim Crows Them BY
Federal Order.

Ger mas just been issued Oy
the chief clerk of each of the
State, War and Navy depart
ments to the effect that COL
ored men employed in these
departments. beginning Aug :
ust Q. shall use during Office
hours only such toilets as are
sestside for them. The or
der very clearly specifies GER
tain lavatories for the use of
white women, white men and
colored men.
The toilets assigned color
ed men happen to be similar
to the others. but are located
in the short corridors of each
floor. while toilets for the use
of white employees are situa-
ted at either end of each cor
ridor. The three depart
ments being under one roof
have one superintendent Of
building. Col. Harts. u. S.
Army. He is the official who
initiated this business and
whose signature appears on
the order.
Col. HARrs REsPoessiBi.E.
During his incumbency as
superintendent OF building (al-
so military aide to President
Wilson) he has enacted Jim
Crowism' whenever an OF
portunity arose. His first act
Of oppression happened early
in the year. when messengers
we're restricted to the use Of
certain elevators. and later
the Colonel cecreed that ex :
eept during certain hours
messengers cannot ride at all.
This rule. while very unjust,
still remains. Owing to the
fact that there are quite a
number Of white messengers
who we're thereby affected. no
protest was made and neither
was any discrimination ac-
knowledged when subse-
ouent order forbidding mes
scnRers to eat lunches in the
corridors was issued.
1t is plainly visible now that
these previous reforms were
directed at the Negro, as the
order issued to day is the
most drastic that has ever
been introduced here, not bar
ring Mr.. McMcAdoo's bold
attempt to segregate in the
Treasury Department.
, Has INFLUENCE WITH THE
PRESIDENT.
In the State, War and Ma
Wy departments there are
scores of white messengers
and white laborers who, by
this order. are permitted to
use the most convenient lava.
tory, while a Negro. recog-
nized by the Civil Service. is
compelled to walk a block
past a place of supposedly
"public convenience" Col.
Harts also has the titled of
Superintendent Of Public
Buildings and Grounds, and
has considerable influence
with the heads of departments
because of his proximity to
the President. and seems to
be able to put anything over
The Denver star., 1916-09-09
Col0RED MEN FIRED WHOLE
SALE BY DEMOCRATIC
ADMINISTRATION.

Washington,-Among the
numerous other particulars in
which his preaching has diff
fered from his practice. Pres
ident Wilson can point to his
record in the matter of race
discrimination. In his speech
at independence hall, Phila-
delphia, July q. 1914. Presi-
dent Wilson said that we
make no difference between
one race and another, and
that we did not set up any
barriers against any particu-
lar people.
On other occasions. partic-
ularly while he was candi-
date for the presidency, he
gave assurances that he would
not discriminate against Col
ored citizens of the United
States. Notwithstanding
these assurances of support of
the equality before the law
and in governmental affairs,
great discrimination has been
practiced not only in the de-
partments over which the
president has indirect control
but also in appointments that
are made by the presiden,
himself. Under Republican
administrations the policy was
pursued of appointing a COL
ored man to fill a vacancy ere
ated by the resignation. death
or expiration of term of a
man of that race. This pol.
icy was reversed by the fol
lowing Colored persons have
been succeeded by white men
William H. Lewis assistant
attorney general $4,000; ]. c.
Napier, register of the treas
ury. So. 600; Charles w. An
derson, collector internal rev.
enue. New York. s.. 500: Hen
ry Lincoln Johnson. recorder
of deeds. $4,000: Ralph W.
Tyler. auditor for navy de-
partment, $4,000; c. F. Ad-
ans, assistant register Of the
treasury. $4,000: Joseph E.
Lee. collector of internal rev.
enue, Jacksonville. So, 500: N.
w. Alexander, register of the
land Office, $4,000; J. E. Bush.
receiver public monies. Little
Rock, Ark, $4,000: Charles
A. Cottril. collector of inter
nal revenue, Honolulu, 81. 500
T. V. McAllister. receiver of
public monies, Jackson, Miss.
S2.soo: Robert Smalls, collect
or of Port. Beaufort, S. c.
$1,000; James 4. Cobb special
assistant district attorney.
Washington. D. c. So. 900.
Diplomatic and Consular
Service-Henry w. Furniss,
envy extraordinary and min,
lister plenipotentiary at Port
au Prince, Hayti, $4,000;
George H. Jackson. consul.
Cognac, France. $4,000: Jas.
w. Johnson. consul. Corinto,
Nicarau9a. $4,000.
Colored Civil Service En-
ployes. Pension Officer. D.
Venning, 2Io7 Fitzwater ST.,
Philadelphia. Pa; w. A. Rob.
inson. now practicing law.
Chicago, ILL.,: w. H. Connor.
now practicing medicine, Fl.
Wayne. Ind; John Ratley. IL
tn and You streets N. w.,
Washington. d. c.
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

handsome and It is so simple that Il can
be copied by any woman who can
thread a needle and take the ordinary
stitches. The second hat shows silver
soutache applied over simple little
design on the outer edge of the brim.
and simplicity makes an essential
feature Of the best models of the sea
son. Elaborate trimmings are not
shown and hats such as these are being
offered by the most exclusive dealers.
The embroidery on one and the braid
on the other makes the only needed
trimming and YOU can see at a glance
that they are easy TO obtain.
The second illustration shows neck
tics and girdles They can he made OF
ribbon or OF silk and they arc designed
to be embroidered either with beads or
with French knots. They are eX-
ceedingly dainty and attractive and
they will give a smart touch 10 any
costume. There is a necktie TO match
each girdle but il is by no means
necessary to use the designs in sets
The neckties and the girdles alone
often will be found preferable. Neck
ties Of the sort are much liked worn in
combination with the crepe de chine or
the Georgette blouses that are needed
with tailored suits. The girdles will
Of necessity. belong with the slightly
more dressy costumes. Some Of these
costumes will call for neckties as well
and some will not. The designs are
very simple and easy to work and ex-
tremely attractive when completed.
Any preferred coloring can be used.
II something very dainty and Paris
like is wanted, Il would be pretty 70
make the borders in pale pink crystal
beads and TO work the flowers in the
crystal beads with the stems and the
leaves in pale green. II something
more practical and serviceable is
wanted. It would be pretty 10 carry
out the whole design in cut steel beads
or perhaps in Jet beads on a white
ground or on black ground or on a
colored ground as may be. There are
countless opportunities for in
dividuality, for color can be varied
again and again Beads are to be
found in such wonderful variety. both
as 10 quality and color. that there is
no limit to be set TO their possibilities
The designs also are good for French
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10
Fashions Have a Practical Side

seems an ideal time to consider home
sewing and home dressmaking and to
create for ourselves costumes that be
long to ourselves, that reflect something
of ourselves and are not merely pur-
chased for a given sum.
We are using some very striking
color contrasts. The woman with the
color sense has a rare opportunity.
Patterns for embroideries can be pur-
chased from one OF a dozen sources.
and the work is so simple and it IS done
with heavy threads that I'LL up 80
rapidly that it represents only the
minimum Of time and labor. ANY
given pattern can be made your own by
individual handling of color no matter
how many times the design may have
been exploited treated in different
ways. Every French opening, every
showing OF imported models en-
phasizcs the needlework and the fur.
Needlcwork is easy TO obtain and the
fur does not need to be used eX-
travagantly 20 give fashionable effect.
Il is a season Of opportunity and it is a
fortunate thing that it should come az
a time when so many families feel the
need Of economy. We cannot cheaper
food without detriment to health.
We must have good homes and warm
homes II we are to rear the family in
the way Of life to which it belongs.
Clothing and its manufacture affords
an opportunity. and the fashions this
season would seem TO have been de-
vised especially with that thought in
view for they are simple, they involve
no intricacies and gowns can be made
without difficulty. Il is the treatment,
the color and the finish that give them
elegance and charm.
At the moment, street gowns are Of
especial interest. They are exploited
in unprecedented variety and with UNI
precedented charm. We are not very
original, we women, on this side OF the
sea in spite OF our claim. We have
walked always, far more than our
French cousins, but we had to wait
for Paris to be deprived Of its cabs to
learn how fascinating the simple walk
ing costume can be. Today all Paris
walks, consequently, Paris is wearing
chic gowns that are designed especially
for that use. She sets the example chat
we all should study and follow. Ex-
aggeratedly short skirts have been over
done and vulgarized as they were fore
doomed. We will wear comfortably
short skirts bu not vulgarly short
skirts throughout the Autumn and the
Winter. The walking dresses are
made in the simple one-piece style Of
comfortable length, of comfortable
weight and of suitable material, to be
essentially smart and attractive.
Later, suits will Of course supplant
them to a great extent but the suits
also give evidenceof the same endency.
And we are writing Of Autumn just
now, the time that means a brisk
atmosphere and when the street gown.
worn with a fur scarf is the most salts
factory garment one can own
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

or in darning or with French knots or
with beads as the blouse is made Of
one material or OF another For the
simple everyday blouse to be worn with
the tailored suit, plaid taiieta and
striped tafeta are iavorite materials.
For the more dressy blouse, talfeta in
light colors and in lowered effects will
be extensively worn, while among the
simpler materials, cotton wolfe and
crepe continue favorites and crepe de
chine always fills a place. Challis is
one OF the newest materials and the
most practical for simple everyday
wear The striped blouse in the right
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

Blue serge and blue gabardine are
such pronounced favorites that were
they not 50 practical and susceptible
OF so many variations, they would
almost become wearisome. A gown
that is Of the gabardine in dark blue
shade is simple in the extreme, yet
handled in such a novel way that one
completely loses sight of the tact that
blue serge is not a novelty. The
skirt is box plated in the front and
in the back, TO form a panel effect,
and there are one or two plaits at each
side but il hangs limp and straight, 1t
does not flare and it reaches TO about
the top Of the high laced shoes. The
bodice is cut in the simplest possible
line. quite plain but with long close
fitting sleeves set in corded arm-holes
that suggest the over-bodice effect
These sleeves are finished with narrow
turned-back cuffs of purple taille and
the blouse is high at the back with a
very slight Y at the front and shows
a double wide collar with deep points
over the shoulders. the under one
being Of purple faillc and the over OF
white satin while there is belt OF the
Idllle lldk II Wbfu dl the Waist hNt e
are FIVE buttons ornamenting each
sleeve from the wrist up and the
little bodice is closed at the under-arm
so that there is a row Of buttons over
each under-arm seam. These but
tons are of black braid but are EN-
broidered with gold to give a touch
Of brilliancy. As a finishing touch
there is a little pocket inserted in
each side Of the front and the edges
Of these pockets are finished with
cords and with tassels that hang pref
tily over the belt. We must have
something that hangs, something that
swings. something that gives the tassel
effect il we will be really smart. That
treatment is novel and an attractive
one and the little bit of gold used on
the buttons has been most cleverly
handled. 1t means brightness without
garishness and gives the relief needed
1t is touches Of such sort that stamp
the artist
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

series as well as garments. There is
every opportunity for the woman who
knows how 10 use her needle TO give
distinctive effects to her costumes.
Not alone are gowns themselves en-
broidered, accessories that are treated
IN such ways are the smartest and
handsomest that can be found.
The Illustrations that are shown here
give suggestions. The hats are copies
Of models shown by the best dealers.
On one the embroidered design is a
simple conventionalized daisy to be
worked with chenille. The petals
mean only the lazy daisy stitch. that
consists Of one long loop. held down at
the point OF the petal. and the center
can be filled with French knots or with
disc covered with silk or velvet or
with big button This hat shows a
fashionable shade Of red velvet and
The daisy is worked in black chenille
Eifh yellow center. II is exceedingly
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10
The Present is a Season of Embroidery

. knots for French knots always can be
substituted for beads and some very
chayming effects can be obtained by
embroidery II that sort. IL is easy 20
get any desired color effect and the
work is the simplest in the world to do.
To obtain the best results transferthe
design to tissue, then haste the tissue
over the material and work through
both, tearing the paper away when the
work is done.
Sometimes one secs French knots
and beads combined TO make a charm
ing effect and the designs that are
shown here can be treated in that way
with great success, for there is no
design that cannot be varied again
and again. and often il is the varia.
ton. the personal touch, that makes
the greatest element Of success. The
borders for both the neckties and the
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

THE present is a season TO inspire
thoughtful consideration. We
hear on every side Of curtailed in
comes and at the same time of in
creased cost in living. Il seems in
evitable that when two such con-
ditions come together, economy will
be a necessity. There is, perhaps, no
economy within easy reach which
represents a bigger gain than that Of
making ones own costumes in place OF
purchasing ready made or by putting
the work out TO an expert. This sea-
son there is a wonderful opportunity
for the individual maker and II women
will useit Alright, they not alone will be
able 20 economic, they will be able to
combine with that economy a ward
robe at once distinctive and individual
Il is one of the drawbacks Of the ready
made clothing that il is duplicated
again and again. Even the costliest
French gowns that are exploited as
models will be seen repeated here and
there and everywhere. II is no un-
common thing to meet a recognized
Worth or Lanin or Peret model in
a half dozen different colors at a
given gathering Of fashionable women.
Those who are at all familiar with
what the dealers have to offer, can re-
cognize at a glance just from what
source a costume is obtained. II is a
well known fact that the really best
dressed woman is she whose dress is in
dividual. who chooses her costumes
for herself and is not stabishly held by
the dictates Of fashion lust now
with all this wonderful needlework
done on what are really simple gowns.
il is quite possible to create individual
gowns and suits that will be distinctive.
that will be elegant and that will be-
long to ones self without any undue
effort. Home dressmaking is not
difficult to do Perfect patterns can
he had for a trihe. The purveyors Of
the patterns have done all the cal
culating and all the hard work. The
woman who makes the costume has
only TO follow the directions and to
use a little good judgment and dis
cretion. The designs are so simple
today that there is nothing difficult to
be undertaken. II is the treatment,
the material. the combination of color,
the effect that distinguishes the hand
some gown from the ordinary one
The woman of taste. the woman OF
judgment, the woman with an eye for
color. should be able to create for her
self costumes that will be far more
distinctive in the truest sense than any
that are offered ready for use, let them
come from whence they may, be as
costly as they may Home sewing
has. unhappily, fallen greatly into dis
use, and this is an excellent period at
which to revive It. The dressmaker
who comes into the home and works
under the direction OF the mistress
thereof, should he a real boon today
and since we are studying economy
along scientific lines and domestic
science with a view to promoting
efficiency and careful expenditure It
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

Embroidery makes an important fea-
ture Of the newest fashions and the
work done with worsted threads fills
up so rapidly that il means very little
time and very little labor while Il is in
every way smart and effective. Bright
colors are the chosen ones to use on a
dark background, and combinations OF
rich reds and blues and greens and
yellows that are suggestive OF the
Russian peasant embroidery are much
liked.
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

hand corner shows 1t in colonial yellow
and white TO be charming in the eN-
IRENE while at the same time It is es-
sentially useful and comfortable. Chal-
lis washes as perfectly as linen and II
has just enough weight and warmth to
guarantee satisfaction during the
months in which Jack Frost holds sway
The little turned-over collar and
cuffs Of handkerchief linen give a
smart finish, for linen and challis
make an excellent contrast. On the
silk blouse, il would be pretty 70 use
organdy or Georgette.
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

Tblkl Is NO garment ct greater
usefulness than the separate
a blouse and here are some OF the
newest and prettiest designs for its
making. We shall wear both open and
high neclSs this season. consequently
Zach woman is free TO choose. The
high collars will be very high. however,
and the open necks win mean a variety
a collars. the sailor collar. the square
collar and abe roll collar. The sailor
and the square collars afford excellent
opportunity Tor the embroidery that Is
40 important Just now. They can be
Embroidered with conventional figures
81 the corners or they can be em-
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

is made of a pretty challis with trim
ming of ribbon. but since it can be
made with low neck and with short
sleeves, it can be converted to dancing
use il a different material we're chosen.
The frock with the belted blouse can be
made Of two materials or of one. A
plaid or a striped serge over a skirt Of
plain blue would be pretty or a blue
serge throughout with trimming OF
taffeta or with collar, cuffs and pockets
embroidered with worsted threads.
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

THIS present season is essentially
one Of opportunity for the home
woman Needlework OF every
rossible kind is in vogue. Soutache
braid Is utilized to give the most iasci-
mating effects and embroidery with
cads enriches a great unany acces-
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10
For King Baby and His Big Sisters

DELTED or Russian blouses and
n berthas make two of the i'm
portant features OF girls fashions
The models that are shown here ex-
emplify them. used to singular adj
vantage. The frock with the bertha
Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-11-10

so4o (lVth Bastng Line and Added
Seam Allowance Blouse with Full
Fronts, "a TO a. bust.
Seam Allowance Blouse with Tucked
Fronts. "a TO a. bust.
$500 with Basting Line and Added
Seam Allowance Blouse with Shoulder
Piece 20 10 20 bust