Evening star., 1916-09-17
gners Exhibit Fall Gowns for Americans

dome in Paris last winter, but which
was never taken up in this country.
These gussets inserted from neck to
waist make q deep delta effect
The sleeves are gathered at the top,
sometimes made after the genuine leg
o'-mutton shape which is not approved
by American dressmakers and which
has been altered by many Of them into
a more graceful shape, which is but
toned tightly from the knuckles of the
hand to just below the elbow. then far
ing to the armhole. where its fullness
is slight enough to be put into a few
well streaked gathers at the back.
Whatever else sleeves are, they are
tight from the elbow down. Guns OF
fur are frequent, but they fit the wrist
and flare upward and outward to hold
the fullness of the sleeves as 1t mounts
toward the bend OF the elbow.
Fur collars are made in this shape.
often pointed in front. fitted tightly
to the shoulders and f1aring upward
and outward to the ears. Satin, velour.
jersey and velvet are the choice of ma
terials for these suits.
The prophecies for directoire and first
empire styles have come good. There
are gowns of dull blue satin that have
small jacket effects attached to the
skirt, half covered with gray soutache
embroidery, which are cut in a straight
line just under the bust and then
dipped to long points of braiding over
the hips.
The street coats that have been de-
scribed might have been worn in
France under the directory. The three
quarter topcoats, which are the strong
est feature of the new fashions. are
belted so high under the bust and have
such narrow shoulders that they in
stantly suggest costume worn by
Tosca. The skirts of these coats are
full, cling to the figure and are COW
cred with soutache or embroidery.
There is band of fur on the outside Of
the heh,-this is a novelty borrowed
from the Russians-and deeper band
on the inside.
Heavy satin is used as frequently for
coats as velvet, and bright dark blue
seems to be the choice Of the French
designers. Both of them are heaped
with fur. Nutria is used. rabbit. brown.
gray and white. but not many of the
coarse, long haired peltry. The fur this
season must be fiat and pliable, SO that
1t can lend itself to all the SOFT curves
Of the material.
Bernard has turned out black satin
coat with brown fur that the American
dressmakers think will have long run
of popularity. 1t follows the fashion
Ol last year, III tHdl IL HAS Wluo, us
tended openings at the side. exactly
below the waist, that are heavily corded
at the edges. There is black gown
that goes with this. with a deep renais-
sance yoke of gold lace, but the ma
jority of women will buy the coat, prob
ably. without the gown.
It would be terrifying to have a
statistician measure in miles the en-
broidery used on the new gowns. 1t
would make a new burden for our
minds to carry, which are already feel
ing the burden Of this departure in
clothes.
If there is one thing that France
knows how to do better than any
other place in the world it is needle-
work. She has called up all her re-
sources in this line today. All her
needleworkers are not under the colors.
but they are under orders to cover
every piece Of material that goes out
Of Paris with the most complicated en-
broidery.
The designs are drawn from several
sources of inspiration. China, Japan
and Russia are the nations which are
represented The majority of the de-
signs. however, are reminiscent of the
Moyen-age-those sumptuous and ex-
quisite patterns that were produced in
stained-glass windows in Paris from
the twelfth to the fifteenth century.
There are bits Of embroidery on street
suits that look as though they were