The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-04-09

style in the millinery of late
 spring and early summer, if - one excepts the enormously tall high tailored models trim med with towering bows of ribbon or nodding roses which marked the first weeks of the season. These have given a certain character to the 1916 spring, but as warmer weather ad- vances the tendency seems to be to- ward hats of lower crown and wider brim-styles of more picturesque quality in short; which is quite as it should be, for summer is the time of times for lovely picture hats!
 Perhaps the most notable feature in millinery now is the use of textiles, not only in trimmings but for whole crowns and brims; and indeed many of the new hats are entirely covered with textile fabric which may be any thing from costly Chinese embroidery to modest striped linen at twenty five cents the yard. It is the sport hat, naturally, that takes to itself linen covering, but there are many models for formal and dress wear that show silks satins and other rich fabrics in combination with straw; or used all by themselves. Of the latter sort is a very stunning model by Georgette. the brim of peacock blue straw braid in narrow, overlapping rows, and the crown of satin in the same shade with embroiderieS in various colors. The top of the crown is oblong and the satin. is sewed to this oblong crown with an over and over button hole stitch done with bronze silk floss. There are five rows of buttonholing around the crown. joining strips of the satin, one row in plum color, another in old pink, another in gold and so on.
 Peacock Blue Favored Shade.
 It Is surprising how much peacock blue one sees in the new millinery It is deep, greenish blue which one calls peacock for want of another name-there may be some special French cognomen for it, but peacock is the shade it most resembles Lewis has evolved stunning creation of shirred black tulle whose piece de re- sistence is great dragon fly wrought with blue and green beads which is poised over the front of crown and brim. A frill of the black tulle flut- ters over the brim's edge, and an- other frill stands crisply up from the high crown. For wear with this inn posing hat the milliner recommends earrings with pendants of blue and green stones set in pearls. There is an art in choosing earrings to match the hat-nothing gives a woman more complete effect of chic than this clever little touch of matching ear rings. If there is a cockade of blue ribbon on the hat and eyes and ear rings are blue also, the effect is en- trancing.
 Odette has 8 wonderful black tulle model, the tulle draped without shir- ring over a low-crowned, wide-b brim- med picture shape of leghorn. A tiny frill of the tulle stands out beyond the brim and is caught to it by mar row band of jet sewed to a band of peacock blue ribbon. At the brim's edge also are two pink roses with black and peacock blue leaves.
 Tulle Sprouts From Tall Crowns.
 Height is added to height by ad- ding upstanding pleatings of tuIle to tall hat crowns, the tulle appearing to sprout from the inside of the hat in some miraculous manner. This ef- feet is illustrated in the hat of braided black straw with narrow mushroom brim of wired black tulle. and a wide pleated frill of the tulle rising from the crown. Braided straw is excess sively fashionable this season and on a hat of this sort it can be easily managed. seven by tyro in the mill linery art. The straw is braided sep arately and then tackled lightly to the hat. A piece of stout crinoline is cut first, and fitted around the tall crown. Then the crinoline is pinned out on the table and the straw braided over it, the ends being folded over the edges of the crinoline strip. The whole strip may then be easily at- tached to the hat frame. Do not try