Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1916-11-18
FASHlONDOM
By MRS. KINGSLEY.

lK0 I is a curious season as regards
color schemes. Possibly they
S may be classified into a sum-
mary that will help those who
are now choosing clothes.
III one wants splash of color Il
should be barbaric; II one wants
gown In color il should be subdued.
Brilliant reds. blues, puppies and yell
lows are avoided In large pieces, but
they are used slngly or mingled when
belt or cuffs or collar are required On
frock In a neutral tone.
Yellow Ia strong Chinese shade
seems 20 be the only brilliant color
that has been adopted for suits and
evening gowns. but when ii Ia chosen
for the former 1t is for country usage
and when for the latter II is usually
made In a daring frock with amber
tulle and worn with dull gold slippers
and usually there Is touch Of Chinese
blue somewhere. possibly given by
jewelry instead OF fabric.
There are not many OF these brilliant
yellow evening gowns, and only a rare
few for the afternoon, but the yellow
suits in Jersey cloth. North Carolina
homespun and crepe de chine are in
creaslng In fashion. II is strange that
the latter fabric should be taken nm
for country and sport wear. but the
good weayes OF 1t have been found ad-
mNable for summer frocks: and in a
season OF much fullness and drapery
one searches the shops for materials
that are pliable and graceful.
Even women with white hair ara
wearing soft tafeta in gray-bIne
trlmed with pink roses. The very
presence OF gray hair suggests these
tones In order 10 make one look <n,ors
1Iaa Y ever like the women OF Louis
xN.'s reign.
Ihe styles OF Louis XIV. are decided
" aiuring although they are intended
Tor the evening md do not satisfy the
demands OF the daytime. The style.
OF Louis PHILIPPE are rarely attractive
ana easily slip into awkwardness and
positive ugliness.
riding clothes for summer wear are
mostly OF an Informal type. and rood
looking habits OF linen are shown IN
DOTH side-saddle aud cross sa ddls mod
els. The light weight wool habits in
tan and In black and white check ara
llked, too model seen here a few
days since ~as OF linen and made With
the new hare coat. The same modal
can DO made In light weight woolen
material
The outstanding three-tier skirt ia
particularly alluring, each yolant rjs-
ing higher at the one side, and rather
suggesting the material has been casu-
ally swirled round the figure. An effec-
tive black tulle demi-toilette arranged
after this manner had the fussiness Of
each Hounce accumulated by a ruche OF
the same. while the bodice was mount
ed over cloth OF silver and was drawn
under deep shaped belt OF jet and sill
yer embroidery.
Another supremely attractive even
ing toilette was black tulle. the hem
OF the plain. full skirt hand embroid-
cred In a taperlng design with Jet
beads aud bugles and mounted over
ivory charmeuse. A corsage OF the
tulle. again mounted over satin. was
arranged rather like a Greek peplum,
the shoulders held together by n let
cabochon and leaving what can only
be described as q high oval-shaped
decolletage. this being completed by
long. graceful and transparent wing
sleeves OF the tulle. the deeplsh point
weighted with q tassel. Nor was that
all. the final and ciinching touch oc-
curing ln long. narrow train OF ivory
satin embossed with bold design OF
black velvet. .