Evening star., 1916-04-14
REPRODUCTIONS OF OLD
PORTRAITS IN CLOTHES
BY ANNE RITTENHoUSE.

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
NEW YORK, April 13-It was on the
cards that Fragonard the painter of
that dainty and extravagant French
period, would come back into the fash
ions. when it was quite settled that
the leading dressmakers would dip into
those gay and stormy days when the
Louis of Paris reigned.
Beer showed a good many of these
gowns in his spring models during his
opening on the Place Eendome. and the
try as admirable examples of the tend
ency of all the new fashions.
We talked a good deal about 1870. 1910
from Louis Philippe and the mid
Victorian days. but the genuine note
struck by the spring fashions is Louis
XIV and even further back. for the mil
liners have taken up the epoch of Louis
XIII for their inspiration and the new
cornucopia coiffure is adopted from the
headdress of Louis ks time.
The house of Drecoll is emphasizing
the gowns of Louis XI's time and one
Of the most fashionable brides in Eng
lish society. because of her connection
with the prime minister, Mr.. Asquith,
wore q splendid Louis XI frock of white
satin.
Fragonard Styles Are Frivolous.
There is an essentially youthful note
struck in all the Louis XIV styles, al
though there must have been stout and
middle-aged women then as well as now
In America the look and spirit of youth
fulness is continued so far into the dawn
ing of old age that the dressmakers have
lous of Fragonard styles to women forty
five years old.
There is nothing of the hoopskirt in
any of these gowns, but there is a dis
tended hip drapery that distinctly
changes the silhouette from the fiat
tened hips that have prevailed for sew
eral years. The French designers, as
well as the American ones. realizing
that it is not possible to put emphatic
panniers on every gown, have tested
perry below the waist in a half hundred
ways. 1t is usual to depend on the ma
terial and not on cerclettes to get the
outstanding effect.
AS silks and brocades of all sorts and
also metal laces are the ruling fabrics
for evening gowns. it is easy to acquire
a most graceful distension of the hips
without stiffness. 1t was Fragonard's
idea to hold up the draperies with
punches of roses. and Beer as well
flowers and ribbon and used them with
lavish profusion. The shops in New
York. realizing this, are bringing out
quantities of flowers, not SO well made
as the French ones. the making of
which is an inherited art in certain
families. but well enough done to use
among drapery.
No Falling Off in Metal Laces.
The Fragonard colors of blue, pink
and white are taken up by those who
follow the fashions of France before
the revolution. One gown which came
over from Beers collection could easily
have been worn at Versailles. The
skirt and bodice were of silver lace, a
material which shows no sign of dimin-
ishing. 1t was extensively used. Its
luxurious sister. silver gauze. which
has recently been dipped into faint
Fragonard colors. has not had as long
life Even gold lace did not keep it's
grip on fashion, but bright silver and
gray tarnished silver laces are beloved
by all the designers
In the gown by Beer the slip of sill
yer lace had bouffant overskirt of
blue silk caught at the hips with large
pink roses. There was another pink
rose at the waist.