The sun., 1916-12-17
., ELEANOR HoYT BRAlNERp.

THE cult OF the negligee comes
with the capitalization Of So
cicty. Not that the women of
such a society loa: more than their sis
ters OF more primitive standards, but
that they do their loafing differently.
Life is rather strenuous for the aver.
go modern m She spends far
more OF her time In places and occu-
pations for which a negligee would be
unsuitable than her mother did, and
the unitarian wrapper of other days
would have little appeal to her; but,
when she does have an idle hour an
her own home she needs to relax very
thoroughly, and she likes garments in
which she can he absolutely comfort
able.
Moreover. TO he absolutely comfort
sble. this woman must he at ease not
only physically but mentally, and
req lization that one is looking well
tsnds toward this desirable condition.
Your modern woman. feminist or nom
feminist, is still feminine. still has her
az AhNs may eho tC
In the shape Of mannish clothes and
cropped hair. hut they more often run
TO ~frivols: ana the day when smart
clothes and brains. luxury and earnest
sndoavor were even less likely than the
lion and the lamb to lie down together
. past. dead, buried and forgotten.
To be sure. there arc all kinds Of
negligecs. as there are all kinds Of
women; but even the practical things
are seldom hideous now and there's no
excuse for any woman with even a
modest dress allowance looking Q guy
IN her Longing robe.
The cheap cotton crepes come In
oeautiful colors and even tho veriest
novice can make ono OF the simple
robes on good lines. for which patterns
arr sold. There are lovely challics at
Nsronablc prices and the corduroy
robe In gay colors can be made up
very ~inexpensively II one watches for
che inevitable short length sales. En-
fsctive silks may be picked up cheap.
30, and a very small remnant will
Ntcn DO enough for an extremely
pretty and piquant matinee. II it isn't
adequate for a robe.
Color and line arc the important
things. II a have texture. too,
% much the better. and some touch
Of originality in detail may give cachet
- a robe that would otherwise be
commonplace. but trimming can be
dispensed with altogether IL the robe
10 graceful and becoming.
strong and well defined movement
toward such simplification OF detail Is
making itself felt In the province OF
the expensive negligee this year; and
the meet interesting things shown are
typical OF this feeling for picturesque
and luxurious simplicity. The flmy.
d%iaphanous robes and sacks OF the
chiffon and tulle and lace and net and
silk nosegay type are still with US. and
such models at their best seem daintier
and prettier than ever; but the robes
that halt the passing women and draw
sirhs OF admiration or covetousness
from the crowd are tho clinging.
straight. picturesque robes such as
rOrtuny has created. He has his
rivals now and tho movement has
called into play the talents Of several
We'll known artiSts-artists whose
names have hitherto had no assOcia-
lion with woman's dress.
In their wake. but at a distance, fol-
N~rless gifted designers. and the man
ufacturcrs. realizing the possibilities
IN the fad. are turning out MEDIEVAL
and italian robes that, as a rule. fail
. strike tho right note.
There Ia a robe-of Fortuny origin,
u7less memory 10 at fault-that illus
tres perfectly the possibilities In this
new cult and that is tho despair OF the
designer who wants to make a model
b. the gross. In the first place the
velvet Of which II Is made Is very Won
derful, supple as softest crepe. richly
tustrous with a bloom on the lustre.
extraordinarily beautiful in the depth