Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-02-04
YARDS OF STITCHING ON
SEVERE TAILORED SUITS
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
NEW YORK, February 4.-Paris has
launched stitching as the chief orna-
ment of coats and skirts. Callot did
it last August in that famous gown of
green stitched in red, Boosting the first
square pantalettes. That gown and
those pantalettes had their day, and
quite thrilling day it was, and then
interest in them died out as a fame In
it's socket Pantalettes have been worn
all winter without causing the on
lockers head to turn. Even an expert
in clothes could not tell whether a
woman was wearing pantalettes or
narrow underskirt.
When the public found out that the
only thing that surprised them was the
name they turned their attention to
something else While these square
trousers created comment. the bands of
red stitching went unnotice1l: but to-
day the experts have fastened their
eyes on the minor fashions.
Callot struck a note which slowly
seeped through the fashions into the
new gowns. Two of the best gowns
sent over from Paris in December owe
their brilliancy to colored stitching.
The threads had been specially dyed
for this stitching; they outlined the
belt. marked off the hem and simulated
shoulder trimming.
In that vast field of girls costumery
the idea met with cordial approval
Now it has appeared in the. newest of
the coat suits for older women.
New Trousseau Gowns With Stitch
ing.
For the marriage of that winsome
beauty and well known Parisienne,
Mile. Forzane the house of Premet
made the trousseau. In the coat suits
and on the one-piece frocks of cloth
quantities of stitching were used This
was done in silk thread to- match the
color of the cloth, or in opposing thread
to create a color scheme.
In this trousseau, as, IN the new
gowns that are now arriving in Ameri-
ca, it is shown that this stitching IS
treated with artistic perception. 1t is
not commonplace. 1t is carried out IN
a manner that makes it. conspicuous
and gives it character. certain kind
of coarse thread is used and often
fancy stitch is put. 1nTone OF those
long. loose stitches that look like en-
broidery. ------- - -------.-'--- =
One gown is of blue gabardine. and
owes it's distinction to this stitchery.
The short skirt has rows of it at the
hem and the 1aring coat, which is but
toned from hips to neck, has lines OF IL
from shoulder to hem, also around the
hem, the wrists and the edge of the
high collar. The belt is made of
stitched piece of the material. but owes
it's character to a large square buckle
of patent leather The collar" by the
way, is copied from those organdy ones
that Frenchwomen have worn, but
which American women have almost
ignored IT springs out from the neck
band to the ears. forming cage, as 1t
were, for the neck. 1t can be worn
high and low, which is comfort to
the woman who realizes that she must
wear he. winter suit in the spring.
Belts Still Hold Their Own.
In this blue gabardine coat as in
all the other new ones that have ar
rived from Paris, there is no evidence
that belts will be dropped. They are
made of the material of the coat. of
an opposing material and of all kinds
of leather. On the one-piece frocks
the belt is simulated by colored Stitch
ing. in some cases running under
loosened pleat which comes up from
the skirt.
This is Lanvir's Idea. Cheruit clings
TO what is kuown2as the crayat belt,
which is a narrow strip of material
that fastens in two or three places
across the front. =
II is safe to assume-that Is, as safe
as any assumption can be IN chahg-
ing fashions-that both the belt and
the stitchery. plain and ornate, VIII
be carried along toward the summer