Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-21


a suit and a one-piece frock for con-
slant service, and probably the mar
ried man put it correctly for all women
when he said that his wife brought the
subject up to him semi annually. every
day for a fortnight. invariably decided
in the end according to her own de-
sires and was dissatisfied about her
choice, no matter wha, 1t was for the
rest of the season.
This discomfort about the choice Of
ones clothes does not limit itself TO
the decision between a suit and a one
piece frock; it spreads its peevish
tentacles over the entire years outht
in clothes.
Were you ever really satisfied with
the costumes you bought? Have you
ever known any one who was? Isn't
it the common thing to say that one
thought that such and such sun
would be satisfactory. but that II mas
not been; that a gown didn't Mt after
all: that hat wasn't becoming to
change in the couture or that the
frock that one had the least respect
for turned out to be the foundation
stone of ones wardrobe!
There Is no remedy. evidently. TOT
this state of affairs. 1t comes about
through the same rule that governs
everything in human life. which is,
that it is not possible to find out what
one likes until one has tried 1t for
substantial period of time.
Women buy clothes because they like
their appearance on some one else: or
because their price fits the purse: or
because they are advocated as the last
word in fashion from Paris by some
one who wants to sell the garments
regardless of whether or not they suit
the person to whom they are sold: The
saleswoman is commercial being.
Even il she is an artist. she must sup
press that side of her temperament in
order to be a success. If she can COM
bine the two she Is a rare being and
can command her price in any CONNER
cial center.
One of the advantages of blouse buy
ing is that the average woman can get
half a dozen to suit her different needs
and moods. This week they are un-
er-ending carpet. The design and the
color constantly change. They have
reached degree of variety and
gayety that has not been touched in
back two decades in sartorial history
to And the equal of the blouses of to-
day. as far color is concerned. In
that day women were wont to wear
these separate blouses without coats
and they were considered entirely
smart for informal evening wear with
a o!dck- skl-..
Those were the days when the Amer
lean woman did not consider it neces-
sary to put herself into diaphanous,
decollete garment as soon as the night
lights were turned on. We look back
upon those days II, witt. shrek of
horror, when we think how fearfully
and wonderfully We were dressed; but
IL that fashion were to descend upon
us we would regard II with pleasure.
One of the admirable laws Of human
nature is that we accept placidly what
we have often rebelled against bitter
ly; and II We are tainted with being
inconsistent. or of light and variable
character. lacking the foundation stone
Of persistent loyalty in our likes and
dislikes. it is altogether satisfying. to
fall back upon Emerson's answer, that
consistency is the vice of small minds.
In those days two decades ago when
women considered themselves quite
sn"ruy dressed in a pointed blouse OF
brilliant taneta and long black
skirt. these separate garments were
usually. built from opaque materials;
even the candy striped. morning shirt
waists that were bursting over the
horizon. were of linen and cotton.
The former was made with superior
ornateness. the latter with masculine
severity. This gulf Of difference was
placed between tnefn 10 SnO" tnat one
was made for gayetv and the other for
activity.
During the twenty years that have
elapsed the separate blouse has run
through long ganut of changes. 1t
fell into the hands OF the needlework-
ers. who, skillful and unskillful. used
Up their leisure time and much that
should have been devoted to better
purposes. IN applying the methods Of
making a patchwork guilt to a shirt
waist. II vas a hodge-podse. a series
Of broken lines. vague surface. built
Up from hand mbroidery squares and
N mounds OF fine tucking. embroidered
eyelets and French dots, short and
lons ends Of several kinds o. lace, in
Unfortunately blended. rolled and
chine embroidery.
This may appear TO be a severe ar
raignmen, of the once beloved blouses
sincere hope that this fashion and this
needlework will never return.
~
Although the straight. stiff sailor
that was irnmortalized BY Charles Dana
Gibson has come back into fashion
the maRnish blouse has not come with
II. The face beneath the hat and
above the blouse which M. Gibson
drew and which has gone into history
rs the typical American face, has not
been met on the highroads and byway.
Of this continent IN recent years
There are still hundreds of women
Who say that they were the artist's
model and who will cherish this truth
or Notion down TO their graves but
whose faces bear no more resemblance
20 the original drawing than do the
faces of the girls who are now taking
up the sailor hat that was q sign and
symbol of his work
And yet. who knows but the face will
return with the fashion? woman.
by taking thought. may not add an
inch to her stature, but by taking a
bit more thought she can surely change
the shape. expression and complexion
Of the face. Possibly IL might be bet
ter 70 put the blame or praise on cos
metics instead Of thought, unless one
perceives the fact that an admirable
use of the former must be governed BY