davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27
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Zx2Gz2z1l2 LETS

~ERFECT good grooming means
exquisite care of the person and
also of the things that pertain
= to the person, and this exquisite
care does require great deal of time
not bit of doubt about that-but
1t is time well spent and care that
brings its own reward in personal sat
isfaction. Lucky the woman who Is
so situated financially that she may
entrust all the little duties of groom
ing to capable maid. On stated
days her hair Is washed for her, her
flngertips are manicured for her, her
face Is massaged, her stock OF cold
creams and powders is renewed with
out any strain on her own memory;
her boot buttons are sewed on, missing
tapes are speedily supplied on under
garments. and every bit of glass,
china. silver and ivory on her dressing
table Is kept in spic and span condi-
tion. All without the least trouble to
herself.
But the average woman must at
tend to all these details of good
grooming herself, in addition TO the
thousand and ono other things she
has to do; and there is nothing that
needs doing over oftener than re-
pairing of apparel and freshening up
OF boudoir belongings. Not even the
handsomest set of dresser silver in
town can make a dresser attractive If
its lace cover and pincushion need
| laundering or show bows of faded.
| limp ribbon. Much better have pillow
slips of ordinary machino-h emmed
white muslin that 80 to the wash
every Monday. than chaise Tongue
loaded with embroidered lawn and
lace cushions that are eternally wait
Ing for the leisure moment when they
may be removed and Numbered afresh.
Brushes should be cleansed thor
oughly at least once a week for II Is
their duty to abstract dust and CRIME
from the tresses that should even II
they do not, receive the nightly halr'
hour brushing. In order to cleanse
the bristles without softening then'
certain care must be devoted TO TINS
labor. Once a hairbrush has lost lt'
crispness and stiffness OF bristle IL Il
useless, and might as well be throwi
aside, for 1t will merely stroke an,
smooth the hair. rubbing IN the oil
land dust, instead Of whisking II GU
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

a weeks use can readily be conceived
These belongings. along with the nall
buffer the shoe horn and the coirura
pins of shell and amber should be
religiously cleansed once in so often
and that not less often than fort
nightly.
Jewelry is another item of personal
belongings that suffers from neglect
in the matter of cleanliness. There
are strings of pearl beads, worn DAY
in and day out. all through a season
that are so covered with perspiratlon
and dust that they actually feel greasy
TO the touch. 1t may be necessary 10
polish every bead separately with
soft cloth but the result VIII repay
the trouble. Jewelry set with colored
stones in imitation of gems looks vast
ly better If treated to an occasional
bath with warm water and drop OF
ammonia; a small brush should De
used to get into the crevices.
The very dainty woman renews mo
Innings in her hats when they begin
to look the slightest bit soiled; ana
coat collars are regularly cleaned VITA
prepared cleaner that comes FOR the
purpose. The shoe bag should never
go through winter without VISIT 10
the laundry. and dresser covers should
be changed for fresh onas e'srv week
the year round.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

as a good brush should. Wash the
brushes in hot water in which a lit
tie ammonia has been dropped. Dip
the brush up and down many times.
then rinse in clear, hot water, then
in cooler water, and finally in very
cold water. setting it to dry, bristle
side down, on the window sill-in sun
shine If possible. Never dry a brush
bristle- side-up, for the moisture will
run down the bristles into the back
and help to soften the brush.
Clean and polish the backs OF silver
brushes before washing the bristles
II the silver back is washed in warm
water and polished with chamois once
week, cleaning with silver polish
will not be necessary more than once
in several months.
Ivory backed brushes. or any ar
ticles of pyroxylin should be wiped
clean with cold water. Plunging such
articles into hot water turns them
yellow, and washing soda or ammonia
should not be used to aid in the clean
ing except for brushes, and then the
back must be held out of the water as
the bristles are dipped.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27
FOR THE BOUDOIR WRITING TABLE

seated beneath the ordinary gas or
electric lamp in the room. The bou-
doir writing table may be of mahog-
any or OF cream enameled wood to
match the other furniture In the
room. and it is usually dainty, slen-
der-legged affair with a glass top on
which rest writing-pad, electric lamp
and perhaps a slender vase OF fresh
flowers. Very exclusive is new writ
ing pad of cream saffian leather and
cream MORE silk with blotter In the
cream shade and fittings of carved
ivory, A similar pad of blue safiian
and MORE silk has fittings Of silver.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

lineage if not Of over developed men
tality. The new turbans are designed
to make the head look as small as
possible and the woman with large
face must be very careful in selecting
one of these little hats for the very
small hat is dangerously apt to make
large features grotesquc. For the
woman with small, mignonne features
is the tiny turban that has no brim;
and even then the hair must be ar
ranged very close to the head ana ears
so that the turban may appear sum
ciently large for grace. brim or
one sort or another saves the day, In
most cases. and many of the new
turbans have brims; either infinites-
imal-like the rolling brim OF the
model trimmed with an appllqued
straw fower-or stupendous in height
like the brim of the model called
His Holiness" or "The Papal Tur-
ban" Both of these hats, so different
in style, are authoritatively smart ana
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

~HE desk Is being superseded
these days. in fashionable bou-
~ doir and dainty guest-room, by
small writing table conveniently
placed near window and supplied
with an arts ,ically shaded electric
lamp so that writing letters before
bedtime becomes a pleasure. Here
tofore the occupant OF the guestroom
has had to write her letters while
daylight lasted-because the nicely
appointed desk In tho guest-roon
was not furnished with sufficient light
at night--or to scribble them off on
n book balanced across her lap while
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

in mind Is a wide-brim sailor of white
hemp with rather "hoppy." graceful
brim. The straw brim shows only at
the edge, according to this seasons
mode, deep fanEe of bluet taffeta
covering the brim to within an inch
of the edge. The top of the crown
is covered also with bluet taffeta and
around the crown is a band of striped
blue and white ribbon. the stripes
vertical. Folds of the taffeta hold this
striped band against the hat, and n
blue rose is caught at one side. For
Palm Beach wear with fllmy afternoon
dresses is shepherdess hat of vio-
let milan with Il violet facing under
the brim and a band of white gros-
grain ribbon around tho crown sup
porting a cabuchon OF violets and pale
green leaves.
Flower Hats Return With Spring.
Perennial is the return OF the flow
er-turban. For some women 1t never
loses Its charm, and each season as
tute milllners sec to it that the be-
loved flower hat is presented in new
guise. Especially lovely are small
turbans of white straw and white
satin, with pure white azaleas encir-
cling the crown. Small turbans made
entirely of green leaves are sold al
one large New York shop for five dol.
lars each and nearby is supply OF
big, waxen- petaled white gardenias a
half the five-dollar price. The sam
pie hat that draws women like bee'
to this counter is a green-leaved tur
ban adorned with white gardenia
} posed under n glass case on mos
adorable wax beauty with red golc
hair. The idea of tho leaf turbar
with Its white gardenia is really ,
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27
Notes and Novelties.
AN EIGHTFOLD WATCH.

n HE graduation-day watch, ready
4 for February sweet girl gradu-
~ ates, may be worn eight ways,
and all the ways are suggested by va
rious straps, pins and fobs which
come with the watch in an attractive
leather case. The watch, a high class
timepiece with a generation or two
Of good record behind it. has been
put up in this new and delightful man
ner--with eight accompanying Access
sories-by Fifth avenue jeweler and
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27
BOUDOIR SLIPPERS OF BROCADE.

9AERY dainty slippers for the bou-
doir are of brocaded satin in L
" color matching the negligee
These slippers are in the nature Of
"scuffs," or heelless mules, having
only a sole and toe, the sides and
heel of the foot being uncovered. For
a January bride pair of brocade
mules of this sort has just been fin
ished by a friend. Both sides of the
slipper soles-the sort that may be
purchased in any shop where worsted
and crochet needles are TO be had
are covered smoothly with white satin
brocade, and a triangular piece of the
brocade, fitted over the front of the
sole. makes the slipper-toe. This toe
portion is deep enough TO come we'll
up over the instep and is finished all
around with white silk cord, knot
and loops of the cord making dainty
finish. Similar slippers of red and
gold brocade match a rich-hued ORR
entail neglgee, and there are slipper.
of pale pink brocade, embroidered on
the toe with crystal beads to match q
lovely boudoir gown of pink chiffor
| and lace
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

Wood backed brushes and other
toilet belongings may be treated once
in while TO a little furniture polish
and rubbed briskly with clean cloth.
This will impart to the wood the lus-
trous sheen of pristine newness and
will add greatly to the appearance of
ones dresser-top.
Another belonging that Is too often
sadly neglected Is the powder pun. or
the chamois powder pad which Is used
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

charming one--and after all the COM
bination costs one but $3.50, not much
more than the five dollars one intended
to spend for turban when starting
out.
Two flower hats are displayed side
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

by side in a 34th street shop, and II
is hard to tell which is prettiest One
of them is pictured here for your de-
leCtation because the ribbon bow Of
fers new idea and inspiration. 1t Is
made of two wards of wide gray.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27
HEMP and Silk Turbans in Small, Pert
Shapes Haze Fetching Style Rose Col
oredH Haze Special FAVOR Glazed
Stra,u Much Used AS Trimming
Flo,uer Hats Fascinating.

American Beauty and coral. 1t looks
as though rose hats wcro going to
have special favor little later on
and it will be well TO keep this in mind
for future confirmation. A stunning
type of rose hat, repeated in coral
and in old pink, has wide, slightly
dropping brm of hemp. faced under
meath with taffeta in exactly the same
shade. The rather low crown, in
pleasing proportion 10 the wide. droop-
ing brim, is covered with the taffeta
and around the crown is a band made
of two folds of taffeta edging Il CEN
trail strip of plcated taffeta. Against
| the crown at one side are caught two
very small, conventional flowers of
taffeta, and at the brim's edge are two
| overlapping. ungathered frills of chif-
| fon also in the rose shade. This
model, repeated in the various rose
shades, and in charming shade OF
Japanese blue, was greatly admired In
the window OF Fifth avenue mil
liner.
Applique Ornaments Give Small-Hca(
Effect.
It is still fashionable to have &
small, compact head effect. expressive
Of dainty fcmininity and patriciar
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

the idea has met with instant sue
cess. AS it lies in the daintily linet
leather case, the little gold watch i,
attached to a broad black ribbon with
gold slides and around it are grouped
the various attachments, a gold
brooch for fastening the watch to the
bodice, a bracelet for wrist wear, two
buckled fobs for sport wear. one rib
bon, the other suede; a daintier FOB Of
black erosgrain ribbon mounted with
gold, and two neck-ribbons of black
and white ribbon in different lengths,
each with gold clasps and slides. y
graduating gift indeed for a happy
girl is this eightfold watch.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

to spread powder evenly over face and
neck. Women who would not dream
of using cotton washcloth for more
than a day or two without relaun-
dering, will apply powder and rouge
to their faces with the same pad or
puff week in and week out all through
a season. Since the chamois or the
bit Of lambswool In its brisk travelling
over the skin absorbs unto itself a
large part of the impurities that
emerge from the pores and also any
surface CRIME that may have settled
on the skin. the condition of cleanli-
ness of either puff or channels. after
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

new, and both are trimmed with new
Paris devices, in one case of silk and
in the other case beads.
The roll-brim turban is steel blue
in color and is made of pressed milan
of fine quality. The conventionalized
chrysanthemum applqued over the
crown, is of steel gray silk. The
"Papal" turban Is made of taupe col
ored taffeta and chenille, the latter
covering the tall brim. The orna-
ments are of Jet and steel beads. This
is the only hat pictured on today's
page that sets well down over the
head. Tho effect is necessary with this
rather severe shape, to secure good
lines and a becoming ensemble. a
third turban of violet milan has an
excellent line, sloping from forehead
up to high peak at the back; line
that always lends height to its wearer.
Pansy purple velvet ribbon is ar
ranged in new way at the back of
this hat and the color scheme takes
extra interest from a large seed-pearl
ornament which in pin form is thrust
through the crown of the hat.
Weird Colors, and Again Soft, Art
Tones.
Some of the spring hats seem to owe
their inspiration to costumes designed
by Bakst for the amazing spectacles
| of the Ballet Russe-the talk of the
metropolis just now, and no doubt
Bakst effects have been aimed at. In
mind is q wide-brimmed sailor of
cream hemp. of which only quarter
of an inch of hemp shows at the brim-
edge Under and over the brim is
black satin; the crown Is also black
satin and around its base IS wreath
of splendid cherries in bright reds and
pale and deep orange. Another hat
in the same window is of gamboge
.itraw-for the benefit of those who
are not artists it Is explained that
gamboge Is sort OF "Sreenery-yal
lery" shade used to depict young will
low leaves in spring. This gamboge
straw sailor has a black satin crown
and a wreath of olives strung on fine
Jet beads. Less astonishing and emf
nently pleasing is n Palm Beach trav-
cling hat of taupe colored straw
wide sailor shape with a fiat band and
bow of taupe and fawn grosgrain rib
bon.
Another Palm Beach hat which vii
. make charming summer hat later
, on for the woman who keeps its style
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-01-27

4" Ill up and down Fifth avenue
straw hats strike the inspira-
tional note now. The moment
y y holly wreathS and Christmas
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1916-09-08

When sports clothes made their ap-
pearance up-to-date women came and
saw and were conquered by them.
They are not classed among the fads
Of a season now but acknowledged as
q new departure that promises to be-
come q permanent institution. They
have added a lot of color and vivacity
to the apparel Of women, and have in
fiuenced styles In other lines. AL
ready specialists in designing them
have demonstrated that their charac-
ter and style lie in lines and in ma
terials as much as in color.
A separate skirt in a handsome
plaid, shown In the picture, is not
classed among sports skirts, although
1t might be. But 1t reflects the style
of the sports skirt. 1t Is made ankle
length with bias edges Of the goods
joined in a seam down the back and
the front. Pipings and parallel rows
of most workmanlike machine stitch
ing places it in the class that is dis
tinguished by fine tailoring-and there
is nothing better.
The saddle-bag pockets, introduced
early In the season. proved an inspira-
tion for several pocket effects which
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1916-09-08
CHAPTER xlv-continued.

Faithful friendv' He caught he1
hand roughly from the bride. 'There
is something in all this 1 don't under
stand. Have 1 been mad-or dream
ingT
Dreaming, Richard"
''Oh, l remember-'the men who fol.
low mirages die That was the night
when she came to give me God
speed and it was for that man who
came to me that night on the plateau
who saved me? Was it your"
Yes"
And everything-all you said-was
lie, charitable farce?"
"It was the truth. "~s
He did not speak for moment. He
bent lower in the saddle, as though
to penetrate the twilight that hid hel
from him. And suddenly it was hel
hand that sought his and held it.
81 am sorry" she said. 81 did not
mean to hurt you"
81 have to thank you," he answered
unevenly
Then gently he freed himself and
pulling his horse round in the middle
of the road, galloped back in the di
rection of the barracks.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1916-09-08
LATE MODEL IN SEPARATE SKIRTS.

removal of her coat discloses her finery
in these thin materials, sometimes
hand embroidered, more often machine
embroidered, and often finished off, in
either case, with fancy needleworll
stitches. In the summertime her frilled
bonnet is much like her dress, and in
winter time it is apt to match her coat.
The little frock pictured above is of
machine-embroidere batiste in a fine
quality. Among the embroidered tiOunc-
ings there are many patterns that
seem made especially for children's
dresses. The flower designs are dainty
and the work fine. Such pattern is
needed for the little dress shown here.
Frills are set in the short sleeves and
they are made Of the same fiouncing
as that used in the skirt. The skirt is
set to a short baby waist, and what lit.
tie needlework there is, is done by
hand.
The finest Of organdie edgings and
fiouncings are used for making those
| dressy bonnets. with double frills about
the face, that have permanent place
! in style for little children.
The bonnet shown has puffed
crown and is trimmed with a soft
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1916-09-08
Once-Overs,

The wife who is plainly dressed and
does not have the luxuries you en-
joy is not necessarily unhappy, and
she may be getting much more out of
life than you are getting.
1t may be that she and her husband
are laying up money for their old
age, while you and your husband are
spending all you earn.
When the time comes that you
should be taking comfort and be free
from worry, you may find yourself
worried because of your scanty saw
ings, while the woman you pity to-
day may then be secure in the
thought that she has enough TO sup
port her to the end of her days.
So do not waste your pity on the
woman who is so plainly dressed.
She may have more sense than you
at the present time and more COM
fort in the years to come.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1916-09-08
SLEEPING IN QUEER PLACES
EneIishman Chooses Narrow Plank
12o Feet Above the Ground
for Siesta.

A short time ago i man was dis
covered in the lunch hour fast asleep
on a plank. His arms were hanging
down, one on each side of the board,
which was about foot wide. He was
snoring gloriously, and quite careless
of the fact that If he turned over for
greater comfort he would tumble out
of bed" 120 feet, tor that plank was
part of the scaffolding erected for the
repair of a church spire.
A similar disregard for danger was
reported lately during the erection of
an electrical plant. One Of the men,
engaged on the tall chimney, missing
his mate at the lunch hour, went UP
the half-finished chimney to find him.
He discovered him fast asleep on a
narrow ledge of brick inside the shaft
fall from which meant drop OF 81
feet.
The other week a circus arrived in
certain town, not a hundred miles
from London, at an early hour, after
a long journey and performance the
previous nlSnL. AS consequence rev
of the company got any sleep. That
day there was the usual procession and
the afternoon performance. The lion
tanner had had very rough time be.
cause of the illness of one of his
beasts.
The evening performance arrived
and the man had to pretend to go te
sleep with his head on the body of q
couchant lion, finishing up the per
Torrance by springing UP and put,
ting his head in another lions mouth.
But when the jumping-up time came
a gentle snore was heard. The mar
was fast asleep with his head pillowet
on lion.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1916-09-08

Gibraltar has been the scene of 13
sieges and many battles. Its rocky
slopes have run red with blood. Early
armies rained their arrows against 1t
and their battering rams tried to pow,
der it's natural walls centuries before
the age of powder and iron balls. For
this is one of natures strongholds, this
western gate of the Mediterranean.
This cliff of solid limestone was one
of the Pillars of Hercules, beyond
which it was though anciently no man
might venture and live. Beyond was
Ultima Thule, the last island, the end
of all. Later the Phoenicians. ventur-
ing out into the Atlantic to the tin
mines of Britain, had a way station
and fort on the rock. Centuries later
the Carthagenians erected watch tow
ers upon it to observe the galleys of
their Roman enemies. The Romans
captured it, and the Goths took it from
the Romans. The Moors got 1t next
and held it for 800 years. The Moslem
hosts landed there to overrun Europe.
Always the power that held the rock
was a power dominating world CONF
merce, and never since the days of
Hercules has the rock been so forbid
ding as it is this minute.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1916-09-08
This Really Happened,

Not one woman in dozen will be-
lieve this story, although it is true.
Every other week Bill Smith can prove
it by rolling up his left pants leg. The
alternate week the proof is in the
laundry basket.
Bill works in shop where a man
must have forearms. He has solved
the underwear-sleeve problem by hav-
ing them cut off above the elbow
The other day he bought new union
suits, and showed Mrs. Smith on one
arm how much he wanted cut off. The
next Sunday morning he donned the
suit and found she had cut off the
right arm and left leg. He apprised
Mrs. Smith, but she retorted such a
blunder was impossible"
But Bill had the proof, and he still
has 1t; for on the union suit there is a
seam around the left leg just below
the knee, where the cutoff has been
put back.
Bill says: "As we sew We rip, and
if we snip, inadvisedly, it's best to sew
1t ON again."