Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16
BY RICHARD HARDING DAVIS.
sALONIKI. Greece. December 6.

BY RICHARD HARDING DAVIS.
SALONIKI. Greece. December 6.
At home We talk glibly of a world
war. But beyond specializing in NUM-
tions and as to how many Americans
will be killed by the next submarine
and how many letters the President
will write about it, we hardly appre-
ciate that this actually is a war of the
world. that not only in Europe. but
that all over the globe. every ship of
state. even though it may be trying to
steer straight course. is being vio-
lently rocked by il. Even the individ-
ual, as he moves from country to coun-
try, is rocked by it. not violently, but
continuously.
1t is in loss of time and money he
feels it most. And as he travels he
learns, as he cannot learn from map,
how far-reaching are the ramifications
of this war. in how many different
ways it affects every one. He soon
comes to accept whatever happens as
directly due to the war, even when
the deck steward tells him he cannot
play shufilboard because, owing to the
war, there is no chalk.
In times of peace to get to this place
six days, but now, owing to the war.
in making the distance we wasted f1f-
teen. That is not counting the time in
Paris required by the police to issue
the passport. without which no one can
leave France. At the prefecture of po-
lice | found a line OF people, French,
Italians. Americans. English. in col
umns of four and winding through
gloomy halls. down dark stairways and
out into the street. l took one look at
the line and fed TO Mr.. Thackara, our
consul general. and. thanks TO him.
was not more than an hour in obtaining
my laisser passer.
Time Wasted for Vises.
The police assured me l might con-
slider myself fortunate. the time they
usually spent in preparing a passport
is two days. 1t was still necessary to
obtain wise from the Italian CONSUL
ate. permitting me to enter Italy. from
the Greek consulate to enter. Greece
and. as my American passport said
nothing of Serbia, from Mr.. Thackara
two more vises. one to get out of
France. and another 10 invade Serbia.
Thanks to the war. in obtaining all
these autographs two more days were
wasted. In peace tunes one had only
to go 10 Cooks and buy ticket. In
those days there was no more delay
than in reserving seat for the thea
ter.
War followed us south. The win
dows of the wagon-lit were plastered
with warnings to be careful. to talk to
no strangers, that the enemy was us
tening. War had invaded even AiX-les-
Bains. most lovely of summer pleasure
grounds. AS we passed, il was wrapped
in snow; the Cats Tooth, that towers
between AK and Chambery and that
lifts into the sky a great cross 200
feet in height. was all white: the pine
trees around the lake were white, the
streets were white, the Casino des
Fleurs, the Cercle, the hotels. And
above each of them. where once was
only good music. good wines, beautiful
flowers and baccarat, now droop in
Vulnerable Red Cross flags. Against
the snow-covered hills they were like
little splaShes of blood.
Foreigners Accuse Italy.
War followed US into italy. But from
the war as one finds it in England and
France, it differed. Perhaps We were
too far west. but. except for the field
uniforms of green and the new scab-
bards of gun metal. and. at Turin, four
aeroplanes in the air at the same time,
you might not have known Italy was
one of the allies. For one thing, you
saw no wounded. Again, perhaps it
was because we were TOO far south and
west. and that the fighting in the Tyrol
is concentrated. But Bordeaux is far
Their from the battle line of France
than is Naples from the Italian front,
and the multitudes of wounded in Bor-
deaux, the multitudes of women in
black in Bordeaux. make one of the
most appalling, most significant pic
lures OF this war. In two days in Ma
pies | did not see one wounded man.
But ] saw many Germans and Germa n
signs. and no one had scratched Mumm
of the wine card. A country that is
one of the allies. and yet is not at war
with Germany, cannot claim to take
this war very seriously. She even leaves
herself open to suspicion.
In Naples the foreigners accuse Italy
OF running with the hare and hounds.
They asked what is her object in keep
ing on friendly terms with the bitter
est enemy of the alieso Is there an uu-
Outstanding that after the war she and
Germany will together carve slices off
Austria. Whatever her Interior OBJ
ject may be. her present war spirit does
not impress the visitor. 1t is not the
spirit of France and England. One
man said to me. Why can't you keep
the Italian Americans in America?
over there they earn money and send
millions OF IL to Italy. When they
come here 10 fight, not only that money
stops. but we have TO feed and pay
them.
Stranded in Their Own Country.
II ulu very grateful NOT
as though Italy was seriously at war
You do not find France and England.
or Germany, grudging the man VINO re-
turns TO fight for his country his ra-
tions and pay. And Italy pays her SOL
diers cents a day. Many of the re-
servists and volunteers from America
who answered the call TO arms are bit
ferly disappointed. They expected to
be AT once led TO the firing line. In
stead. after six months, they are still
RGUS llS G1S E1~ a.