davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22


the New York show is an institution
of long years standing and since its
occurrence marks the opening of the
gay winter season, society attends it
from force of habit and the frocks,
hats and furs worn by society at this
event fix the fashions for the winter
over considerable part of the coun-
try.
Furs Whatever The Weather.
The thermome has a discomfort
ing way of leaping upward in the
Indian summer days of early Novem-
Der, but one always hopes it will re-
frain from such acrobatic feats Horse
Show week; and that crisp northwest
wind weather will welcome the out
stepping of furs. For furs make their
official bow to the season with the
Horse Show and are worn whatever
the thermometer chooses to do. Furs
having been very much the thing all
summer long, one cannot feel the same
keen thrill at their first winter appear
ance in the fall; the chief interest
this season lies in the new lines and
shaping of fur garments. not in the
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22
A Doll for the
Debutante

:" FEW seasons ago when Teddy
"a Bears were at the height of
their vogue, pretty girls OF
grown-up age-or at leasA of grown
up appearance-toted cute little bears
about with them and no matter how
formal an occasion there were likely
to be several Teddy Bears present.
tucked under dinpled arms. Now the
debutante, who simply must have
fad. is carrying fascinating. fashion,
ably attired dolly under her arm OF
an evening; but there is really much
more raison d'etre for the doll than
there was for the Teddy Bear The
latter was purely ornam ental--if one
ignores his fetching characteristics as
pet--.while the French dolly is a
very useful little person. Under her
distended petticoats of silk, lace and
bowknots. is a party bag to hold slip
pers. kerehief and vanity outfit. In
fact, I'll there is of the dolly as far
as anatomy goes, is from the waistline
up-the spreading skirts accomplish
the rest, and two dainty little feet
clad in fashionable buttoned boots are
attached to the hidden party bag,
showing beneath the lace petticoat.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22
Pianos and Their
Personality

- URELY pianos have personality,
and their personality reflects I'M
~. mistakably the personality and
the tastes of the individuals who dwell
with them. There is the stiff and
angular personality of the upright
piano in country house best parlor;
worsted mats and china ornaments,
flanked by piles of hymn books that
adorn its top and you know, looking
at it's primly closed front that it is
opened only on Sundays. There is
the always-open upright, gaudily
adorned with silk "drape" and lit
tered with ragtime and popular song
successes-one feels without looking
that there are enlarged crayon por-
traits and plush "parlor suite" in
its vicinity. And there is the cozy
baby-grand, set cat-a-cornered i'm
charming room, with low vase of
roses reflected in the polished wood
Of it, a broad bench set before it and
some really good music on the rack
over the keyboard. Such piano
makes the most delightful background
for graceful woman and bespeaks
the artistic and gracious personality
of the owner Of the home.
A piano always closed gives for
bidding and austere aspect to room.
The lid should be shut down at night
while the windows are open, for ex-
tremes of cold and heat are very bad
for any piano; but during the day,
keep the keyboard in sight even II
there is no one to play on it, and set
a few leaves of music you like on the
rack. This Is not altogether pose
someone may be tempted to sit down
..ad run over the notes; and the music
one loves and keeps in ones living
room speaks for ones tastes as clearly
IS the books that are scattered about
Tn tables. Mahogany candlesticks are
best for the piano, for metal ones are
apt to emit an annoying tinkle unless
Nperfectly balanced and heavily
weighted. Vases of flowers. set on the
piano, should be placed on dcilies or
small linen mats and photograph
frames are best kept off the piano top.
unless they are tapestry frames we'll
padded at the base. 1t is mistake
to crowd the piano with ornaments,
and whatever the decoration it should
possess dignity and grace. Two wooden
candlesticks Ranking small bust of
Mozart or Wagner Is an excellent COM
position in decoration. Keep the piano
free from dust and once In two weeks
Arub It with preparation of lemon oil
to bring up the natural beauty of the
wc~A
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

all-in the huge enclosure at the
Horse Show-must have arres.ing
characteristics, either in line or color;
but this splendor is more often put
in the wrap-wraps are feature OF
Horse Show exploitation of clothes,
and most of the occupants of the boxes
keep their handsome wraps over the
shoulders of their evening costumes
if modern evening costumes may be
said to have shouldersl For Horse
Show wear and supper wear after
ward, is a brilliant evening gown OF
splendid color. On ground of apricot
silk, the palest yellow flushed with pink.
are great, glowing tulips in fame and
orange shadings. The girdle of black
velvet ribbon, twisted three times
around the figure over foundation
of featherbone girdelin, supports
sash of black tulle weighted at the
ends with gold roses. The bodice Is
of apricot tulle with floating sleeve
drapery that is very graceful. Jet
beads outline the neck and fall IN
festoons from shoulder to hip.
Rigid Rules For The Riding Girl.
There is strict code of etiquette
governing the costume of woman
riders in the Show. Riding habits
must be of the most formal type and
in the skirted style for side saddle
wear The riding costume pictured IL
entirely correct, of black cloth with
double breasted coat, beaver top-hat.
black glazed kid boots and white stock
and gloves.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

mohair and worsted mixture trimmed
with bands of brown velvet embroid-
cred in gold. The hat of bisque vel
vet with matching feather is trimmed
with mink fur and a gold tissue rose.
tinted buttoned tops carry out the
color scheme.
An evening wrap for Horse Show
week is of spotless ermine, all the lit
tie black tails that have been removed
from the pelt having evidently been
garnered to make a fringe on the
deep cape. AS though the wrap were
not handsome enough in itself, it's
maker has added collar of chin
chilla, another costly fur, cut in an
altogether new hood-like shape.
The last word in fur neckwear is
the straight, unshaped length of pei
try which Grapes itself anyhow around
the throat, giving the smart, careless
collar effect now in vogue.
Coat Frocks The autumn Vogue.
Last season they were called trot-
ter frocks; now coat frock is the term,
and the idea is that one wears them
without a coat, a strip of fur being
drawn around the shoulders to give
the formal, outdoor suggestion, or If
need be offer extra warmth. A great
many of these smart little coat frocks
are of navy blue serge, some are of
black cloth, and there are many
models in the favored brown. On
Moyenage lines is the frock pictured,
of taupe satin with edges silk stitched
in the same shade, and bands of
smoked fox at collar and hem. The
long, loose lines of this costume carry
out the Moyenage idea and the frock
is a very smart one, just completed
for Horse Show week. The beaver
continental hat. bent sharply UP from
the face is dashingly smart also, and
the costume is matched by buttoned
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

.ly cropping up, and when every type
of costume must be matched with an
appropriate bag or be utterly spoiled
in effect. The day is long past when
one or two handbags would see
woman through a season. Two dec
AIDES ago the woman with one good
leather shopping bag and one plush
reticule for opera glass and kerchief
was quite sufficiently provided for day
and evening; now there must be bags
and purses of various sizes for shop
ping and calling use; special auto
mobile bag. conveniently roomy for
use in the car; various silk bags to
carry with dressy costumes and a
whole set of evening reticules, some
tiny affairs containing a powder puff,
others big enough to hold dancing
slippers and fan. and all made Of
richest fabrics in shades matching the
evening wraps.
A fine taste in handbags marks the
woman who is fastidious about the
little things of dress, and there are
women who have fad for handbags,
collecting beautiful and unusual speci-
mems, some Of which may not be car
ried more than once a season. 1t is
astonishing how much one may pay
for a little thing like llandbag-if
one sets out to be Individual and dis
tinctive in ones taste. Some of these
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

bronze and gilt beads in an allover
autumn deaf design, with a dull gilt
frame set with coral. For the deb
utante there are enchanting theatre
bags all white, with crystal beads and
fringe and lining of white silk;
sometimes dainty pattern in moss
rosebuds is wrought against the
crystal background. A theatre bag
for an older woman is of purple and
white beads with design of violets,
lining of violet silk and frame and
chain handle in dull silver.
| The beaded purse in striped effect
| should not be hard to make, if one
knows how to do beadwork of this
| sort. Steel and jet beads form the
regular stripes and are combined in
| the crocheted fringe. The balls are
made of steel beads, the ring which
| slips over the finger, also. From this
ring depend six strings Of steel and
jet beads which support the purse.
| A handsome silk bag of unusual
shape. has the high, narrow frame Of
etched gun metal, the bag itself Of
deep blue faille silk with an embroid-
cry of metal threads in silver and gun
metal effect. The massive silk tassel
and braided silk handle add no small
distinction to this stunning reticule
for afternoon bridge use.
Black silk bags embroidered with
dainty border patterns in steel are in
good style and not eXpensive-as one
counts expensiveness in bags nova
days. Just as one has been trained
by gradual degrees to count SIS a
modest price for pair of buttoned
boots, and $12 a reasonable figure for
la velvet hat shape; SO does one accept
without demur the fact that ones
handbag is costing three. four. or six
dollars where it used to cost dollar
ninety eight. practical and attract
!, i've model in afternoon handbags is
of black silk of heavy bengaline
weave; the reticule itself, drawn up
at the top on silk cords, is entirely
hidden under founce of the silk,
embroidered with steel and jet beads
in conventional border pattern. A
second flounce, circular in cut and not
gathered like the longer fiounce. turns
over from theltop of the bag. This
circular fiounce is scalloped at the
edge and embroidered with two rows
Of steel and jet beads. The handles
are broad straps of the silk which slip
over the arm. This bag is shown also
in blue faille with steel beads and in
brown fail1e with bronze beads. The
] brown costume for autumn is entirely
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22
Stule Reminders for Horse Sholu Week

and in mole gray, taupe and. brown
shades these coats promisesto be the
sensation of the week-so far as
clothes are concerned in the interest
of the Show.
Wells that trail down the back to
the waistline have been made SO com
mon by hundreds of would-be smart
young persons who can get the wells
but not the automobiles that should
accompany them, that the we'll dressed
woman is wearing a very trim, closely
drawn face veil with its ends securely
tucked out of sight at the back. These
wells are in fine hexagon mesh pattern
with dainty hand-run or dotted de-
| sign. 'tssf
Gloves in ivory or, bisque shade are
bit smarter than dead white ones;
and gloves are now deliberately
stitched on the back.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

furs, themselves. Several very hand
some coats are being finished for
Horse Show week; one of these is of
seal trimmed with broad bands of
mole; another of ermine, white fox
and ruby velvet in striking combina-
ton. The wrap has deep yoke be-
low the armpits Of ermine and
twelve-inch band of the same fur at
the foot; the center portion is ruby
velvet, and narrow borders Of white
fox separate the ermine and velvet. A
big, soft hood of ermine, lined with
ruby velvet falls down the back with
a silk tassel swinging below the hips.
The sleeves, set on the low yoke of
ermine, are of velvet, with broad cuffs
of white fox.
The mink coat pictured will make
it's initial appearance in this country
at the Horse Show. It's fitted lines,
ripple skirt and deep cape crossed in
surplice fashion are in distinctive style
and one should not overlook the full
sleeve gathered into deep cuff Of
the fur This beautiful coat will ac-
company tailored frock Of brown
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22
The Girl Who Rides Must Dress According To Rule
Furs Make Their Official Bolu Horse Show Week
Pontine Goats Likely To Be the Seasons Sen
sation : Gorgeous Wraps Feature.

and garment manufacturers and shop
keepers and upstate visitors whose
single concern is looking at the fash
ions worn by fashion.
At the Gedney Farm horse show,
the twenty-third annual Westchester
County Show, society was out in force
and the show ring was laid out against
background of tall trees. The
seventy parking spaces round about
were. damned with touring cars and
smart four-in-hand carts and on the
lawns strolled the same men and
women who will be the observed of
all observers in the boxes at the Gar
den show in November. This was an
affair of society indeed, and its ex-
clusiveness was married by no gaping,
curious crowd trying to see all it could
of Paris fashions to make a dollar
entrance fee worth while. But since
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

n HE opening winter season calls
n for boots, not pumps, with the
~ afternoon street costume. and
buttoned boots are prescribed by
fashion with all formal or semi formal
tailored suits. All black buttoned
boots, made of soft glazed kid that
fits foot and instep as smoothly as
silk. are coming In but boots in COM
bination effects, Of dark or neutral
toned glazed kid with light buttoned
tops have fashions full endorsement
for autumn and winter wear.
A new material that is creating a
sensation this fall. is pontine: one side
showing cire or waxed surface, like
fine. soft leather; the other side, silk.
velvet. cloth or velour Very. stunning
coats of pontine with smart little hats
to match. are being turned out for
afternoon wear at the Horse Show.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

lady's bridge winnings of an evening.
An English pattern is seen in one
bag, although the bag itself comes
from Paris. The roses in shades Of
pale pink to warm burgundy, with
leaves in silvery green, are massed
against background of crystal beads
and the fringe is Of beads in three
shades of rose pink. This bag has q
most beautiful frame of silver In
Italian carved style with inset pearls,
garnets and slabs of pink onyx; the
cord handles are in shaded Spink. to
match the tones in the bag.
Steel beaded bags are liked best for
day use and there are bronze and
amber beaded bags for the new brown
costumes SO fashionable this year. A
particularly handsome model has
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22
sdtion Gorgeou.

- HOUGH the big horse show held
n annually in New York early in
November is the seasons officiale
- opening. sartorially speaking;
there are other horse shows from So
ciety's standpoint quite as we'll at
tended by the elite and perhaps even
more enjoyed because the sightseeing
public takes no part in them. These
are the smart affairs preceding the
great show at Madison Square Gar
den, exclusive shows and fashionable
shows, though the world and his wife
do not come to cape at the fashion
ables who come to look at the horses
and at each other. At the big show in
November one may look at the horses
indeed from society's standpoint
they are the only thing worth looking
at-but one looks at them over the
heads of dreSsmakers and milliners
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1916-10-22

h q EEPING up with handbags is an
X arduous task, these days, when
q so many new and fascinating
y Y styles in reticules are continual
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1916-05-19
WOMEN'S CLUBS HOLDING
MEETING AT FAIRBURN
Mrs. H. H. HirSCh, of Atlanta,
Delivers Address. on HUI
name Education

An address on humane education was
delivered at the Fifth district conven-
ton of the Georgia Federation OF Wom-
ems clubs in Fairburn Tuesday morning
BY Mrs II. H. Hirsch, of Atlanta. secre-
tary Of the ladies' advisory board of the
Atlanta Humane society. Mrs. w. II. S.
Hamilton. of Decatur. presided at the
meeting. and the convention program in
cluded a number or interesting talks.
The address by :-rs. rIirsch was a
part of the propaganda by the Atlanta
society to educate people. particularly
children through their parents, to be
humane in their dealings. not only with
animals, but with other people.
The humane society has issued a card
Of thanks TO those who contributed to
the success OF the bridge party given
Monday afternoon.
The prizes were donated by Mrs. ]. p
stevens. Mrs. A. V. Guide. Mrs. r. K
RambO and Mrs. Joseph Burge.
Others contributing were Schlesinger-
Meyer company, ]. NJ. High corporation,
Brown & Cochran, Proctor Coal COM
pany. Atlantic Ice and Coal company,
Sterchi Furniture company, J. Kunian-
ski company, Capital City club, Pied
mont Laundry company.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1916-05-19
JURY TO BE DRAWN
FOR TRIAL OF ILLNESSES
Many Challenges Expected
and 100 Names viii Be
Taken From Jury List

The jury for the trial OF Victor F..
Innes and Mrs. Innes, which will be
held Monday week, will be drawn Thurs
day. Deputies were ordered Wednesday
by Judge Ben Hill, of the superior court,
to arrange to draw the jury this week.
Judge Hill asked that 100 names be
drawn for the jury list of the trial,
instead of the forty-eight usually
drawn Counsel, both for the prosecu-
ton and the defense, il is expected, will
exert unusual care in the selection of
the jury for the trial of the Illnesses.
and for this reason the large number
of jurors will be provided by the court.
The Illnesses will go on trial Mon
day, May %. While no official announce
ment has been made it is expected that
counsel for the defense will ask a sew
erance Of the cases. All Of the eight
indictments against the Illnesses charge
them jointly. Counsel on both sides are
gathering in the final details, and it Is
understood that both the state and the
defense will complete their preparation
next week.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1916-05-19

the streets, get them registered and
roomed at the hotels. go with them
up to their rooms.
The Scouts are scattered all around.
and everywhere they exemplify those
two words stamped on the little silver
shields:
ION Duty"
The veterans depend on them to get
across the streets, to get into the ele-
they make some of the old men dizzy,
to put them on the street cars, to give
them directions, to perform hundred
other personal services.
And the old men love the boys, and
lean On them for guidance and support,
and affectionately pat them on the head
and feel. lump in his throat, and
thrill run through him like an electric
shock.
General C. w. Hooper it was, COM
mander of the Alabama division of the
United Confederate Veterans fine
figure Of an old man, with his white
hair. his erect bearing, his voice that
rang like steel on steel-it was Cen
eral Hooper that started the fireworks
with a resolution which he read as soon
as the reunion had been opened with
prayer.
First. the resolution reaffrmed the
LOYALTY of the United Confederate Vet
Grams to the government of the Cniteo
states; second, it. pledged the support
of the United Confederate Veterans to
the government of the United States in
the present world crisis; third-and 1t
was here that the fireworks broke loose
the resolution said:
We recommend that every male
citizen over sixteen gears of age,
residing in the United States and
it's territories, be required to i'm
mediately report to the probate
Judge of his county, or other like
officer, under penalty of the law,
and there swear allegiance TO this
government against any and all
foes, whether internal or foreign,
that may attempt to hinder or de-
stroy the rights, property or liberty
of it's citizens.
Maybe they didn't stand up on their
feet and give the rebel yell when old
General Hooper read that paragraph?
And maybe the sons of veterans, and
the grandsons and the daughters, and
the granddaughters, didn't get a revela-
ton, right then and there, in a sudden
and overpowering way, of what it means
to be
There were the old men who fought
the United States, once upon a time,
and fought until they were exhausted,
but not defeated-there were these men.
who knew the glory and the tragedy of
the Civil war, reaff1rming their allie
glance to the government they fought
and calling upon the present genera
ton to say where it stands against any
and all foes"
1 have an idea some hyphenated
Americans would have got a good case
of religion-patriotio religion-if they
had seen the veterans adopt that ring
ing resolution.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1916-05-19
L. 5. iuenBest
Army in History
UnderNew Bill
Senator Chamberlain, Offering
Measure to Senate, Says 1t
Should Be Welcomed by All
Who Are Not PrejudiCed

WASHINGTON, May 16.-Revised
figures on the army reorganization bill,
as agreed upon in conference and SUBJ
mitted to the senate today by Chair
man Chamberlain, show that the new
army will be even larger than announced
when agreement was reached.
Careful analysis shows the maximum
strength in peace time will be 211, 1000
officers and men, including $4,000 staff
troops, Philippine scouts and unassign-
ed recruits and that the war strength
will be 236,500 troops, which will bring
the aggregate strength of the regular
army to 261,5 The national guard
would total $4,000. making a total of
7lS,5OO available.
The results OF the work of the con-
ferees," Senator Chamberlain told the
senate, must as a whole be welcomed
by all who are reasonable and unpreJu-
diced, as a good bill. For the first time
in our history We have provided for an
army that is we'll balanced throughout
and which will be an efficient fighting
machine. The regular army will no long
err be a hit and miss collection of regi-
ments and battalions, as it has hereto
fore been.
PROFIT BY WARS LESSONS.
Not only are the higher tactical units
properly provided for, but the internal
structure or regiments and companies
of all arms has been improved to meet
the requirements of lessons learned in
recent wars.
THE company units will no longer be
skeletons, but real working units of
about two-thirds war strength. An in
fantry company will be 100 men in
peace and $50 in war; a troop of cav
airy will be 20 in peace and los in
war; a battery will be 126 men in peace
and 100 in war.
THE bill provides for the education,
selection and training of civilians in
time of peace for the duties of officers
in time of war, and to a great extent
they will obviate the hasty selection of
untried and unknown persons for COM
missions on the outbreak of war.
The national guard will have greater
inducements to improve and progress
than was hoped for before, and it will
be on trial during the next few years
to prove the claims made by it's repre-
sentatives that it was only held back
from becoming a real asset in our ma
tional defense by forces over which it
had no control These obstacles it is
hoped have been removed in the new
bill and time alone can tell whether or
not the national guard will take its
place as an important factor in the
army"