Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-04-12

Long before the spring blossoms began
to poke their tiny noses above the soil, the
spring costume had evidenced itself. 10
say spring costume Is perhaps an erroh-
eous statement. one should pluraliIe-
costumes. then, for such bewllderihB
variety, such maddening pot-pourrl I'M
pressed itself upon that that the woman
who wished to be smart without being
weird or bizarre-and this Is n char-
acteristlc desire of the Philadelphla
woman-was in quandary as TO just
what she ought to buy.
But now that Easter is almost upon u.s.
the styles have become stabilized
The modes are still varied, 1t is true nut
it's the variety of art-the intermlngUlnE
of colors that makes up RAINBOW pro-
ducing a sort of prismatc effect OF delicate
tints and pastel symphonies.
If one can fasten the fashion to any
particular artist, and one usually can
vatican is the man. Enhancing shep-
herdess frocks of beautiful MORE ana
faIlle. to say nothing of the charming
Dresden patterns, make the modern wom-
an look as though she had stepped down
from one of the canvasses OF the Famous
French painter
Fragility, both of texture and OF color
Is the keynote of the seasons evening
gowns The basque tightly fitted but not
ntDpcQ IN, occupies Il pIplIllllNl'N P'''Ne 49,
the modes, although there are many other
distinctive features, such as the graceful
capes of embroidered, beaded. or passe-
menterie. Skirts, however continue to be
full most of them measuring five inches
from the ground. The latter is relet
from the exaggerated shortness OF last
winters frocks.
FouIard is one of the newer fabrics for
evening and afternoon wear 1t Is IN line
with the revivals which have been crop
ping up so regularly, Brocades and shot
silks are also good. Gold and silver
worked silks come in every imaginable
shade. The blues are smart, two new
shades are named azure and Wedgwood'
They are particularly handsome in taille
Another rather interesting note is the re-
turn of long sleeves. These are made OF
tulle, chiffon or any transparent material
and are usually shirred the full length OF
the arm with a pointed, fanlike cuir fall
ing gracefully over the hand.
One has to get used to the effect Of the
short, fun skirt with long court tralh IN
back This inconsistency Is to be seen III
many smart evening gowns. These trains
develop from a panel at the back, falling
from the shoulders and trail for two or
three feet behind like peacock's tail.
Scarcity of materials, especially woolen
goods is considered a calamity over here.
But the materials which the thrifty trench
are using to keep themselves clothed indi-
cate as clearly as the wounded men the
full horrors of war. Woolens are not az
a premium-they just can't be had. All
kinds Of substitutions have been resorted
TO- the most common of them the alpacas,
mohairs and such materials, which we as
sociate with the costumes OF our grand
mothers
on afternoon gowns bouffant lines are
Iagg hnuffaut Paris faVOrs rather stiff
materials, and the result is a rage for
alpaca, mohair and similar fabrics for
suits and house frocks.
Novel effects have been introduced For
instance, there Is the new shallow collar
line drawn straight against the base OF
the neck at the front and back, and point
ed on the shoulders. A bias band OF white
organdie or tulle Is used to outline this on
dark gowns especially and is made wide
enough to reach to the chin.
And there are pockets on tailored frocks,
feature heart-shaped pockets ornamented
with strips OF black patent or light colored
feathers, embroidered with colored silks or
beads and then set on the material
Coat suits feature the draped collar. This
rises quite high at the back in sort Of
capuchin cape outline terminating in
shawl or wide reveres at the front. Pip
ings on skirt collar and cuffs In shades
Of beige, tan and mustard are noticeable
Gabardine. serge. alpaca and mohair are
the favored materials, but the demand for
these Is so great that less desirable ma
terlals viii by force Of necessity come 10
the front.
Three-piece suits have come into their
own again. A blouse of tulle chiffon or
georgette matches in color the tailleur
and Is embroidered with strands of metal
lie thread
one OF the hlghest-salarled buyers In
Philadelphia, who has Just returned from
Paris. declares that the diversity Of ma