Arizona republican., 1916-10-04
By Dorothy Dare

 specifying underclothes. The adoption of this expression is timely, for it has reached so much importance in the mod- ern wardrobe that was not even thought of a generation ago. The increase in luxury in every department of feminine garb has made lingerie one of the prin7 cipals in preserving the contour of the figure.
 The makers of under garments today watch every fashion tendency and are specialists in their line. We certainly must give them credit for the daintiness and careful workmanship identified with the new lingerie.
 Rather interesting is list describing Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe which menl tons twenty chimeses of dainty silken mousseline bordered with gold" and though la Pompadour trimmed her night robes with fine pearls, little did they dream of the marvellous selection of undergarments that the woman oi today has at her disposal.
 White or flesh pink or rose shades are chiefly used. Silk crepes, wash sat ins, crepe de chimes, printed crepes, silk voile, souffle, de soie, pongee, glove silk, sheer lawns, linen badste and wash crepes are pre-emininent both in the elaborate and simple under-apparel.
 Exquisite hand embroidery and light laoes, mostly Valenciennes, embellish the dainty new models. A profusion of net IS used both for trimming and founda- ton. Filet lace enriches many an under garment. Organdy embroidery in all white and gray has the call Ribbons are used unstintingly in bows or knots in beading or in transparent effects under net.
 White, pink and blue ribbons mus, give way to old blue, lavender, peach, tea rose and mauve colors. Moire rib- bons garnish great deal Of the lingerie. Narrow black satin ribbons are glimpscd on flesh pink gowns. There is an enlarging demand for glove silk underwear. These garments are made less severe in cut than those of previous seasons and have insertions of Valen- clennes lace as dainty as could be de- sired.
 An envelope chemise woven in a rib- bed effect made up in both surplice and empire styles, with shoulder straps of satin, has bloomers to match, finished with very tiny lace frill and inserts oi lace above the hem.
 A recent display of lingerie was of pale sea foam green wash satin trimmed with Georgette Flowers embroidered in self color with dark leaves lent be- witching loveliness.
 A set of garments made of lawn and net. embroidered in pansy tints, had in- terest added to 1t by means of the col ored shocking. A second set of pink lawn trimmed with white net was smocked with delicate lavender and embroidered with baskets heaped with flowers in pansy tints. 4 Two color underwear is entrancin9 when carried out in crepe de chine. The pale shades interwoyen in pink and pale blue, white and gray and primrose with powder blue, are unquestionably new The knicker portion of one set was trimmed lengthwise with washable nef frills, fastening at the knee with a rib bon flower nosegay. The floral design. embroidered on the undergarments are prettiest when in pastel colors.
 Night gowns are so elaborate as to almost infringe upon the rights nf the pegligee. A gown of silk printed crepe embroidered in gray is made Ea,pire with belt of the material softly knot- ted. and trimmed with Chanti1ly lace and shower rosettes of pink ribbons and rosebuds. The cap to accompany this gown IS raised on a bandeau faintly embroidered in pink with bunch of roses on the side. Night dresses trimmed with colored laces matching the rib- bons on the gown are shown in Empire effects. The distinguishing element of the gowns, envelopes and negligees is the use of panels in front and back. the outline defined by lace, or embroidery insertion.
 Pajamas for boudoir wear of pink silk jersey with belt of same finished with pink silk tassel are recommended for their laundering merits A novelty silk pajama has full trousers gathered into an elastic band at ankle finished with . wide ruffie. The coats are made witt double breasted effect and wide pleatec ;frin at neck.
 Silk pethcoats are helpful adjunc for the present style dress. Fashion stil inelines to the frilly, fluffy corded un. derskirt The rustling of taffeta is one, more heard in the land For the cos. tune taIlleur two-tone or moire taffet; will be in the lead. Messaline. satir and various pattern silks measure iron o to , yards around the hem. Ricl ccolors in shades of rose, green. buff blue, red and gold, as well as taupe ant putty are assured welcome.
 After years of absence Paris ha smiled approyingly on this dress ac cessorv--the skirt-and does not hesi tate to send it to US trimmed i every which way. so that it will dis tend the outer dress. The Parisienn