davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
DRESSES AND COSTUMES

TNHE flare at the feet of skirts of
dresses and costumes is very
pronounced, i'll many instances
being emphasized by the use of feather
boning or a deep facing of stiff taffeta.
Sometimes a drop skirt is made with
less fullness, but the overdress is al
ways flared, and many times bouffant
in effect. Summer dresses always have
full skirts, and many are made with
overskirts or ruffies. or tiers. giving a
full effect.
A founda ZION skirt of plain or figured
taffeta is often yelled with a skirt of
georgette crepe, which may be trimmed
with bands and narrow ruffies of tan eta
Skirts of georgette crepe are some
times made with an overdress of hs-
ured taffeta. which is draped slightly
on the sides and is open in front, show
ing a skirt of crepe. Some extreme
STYLES are hoped just below the hIpS'
giving a dstended effect which is only
becoming to slender figure. Others
are draped slightly on the sides, while
others are in hustle effect.
Waists of dresses are closer fitting,
and yet do not fit the figure snugiy eX-
cepting in extreme cases There are
many basque effects, some of which
fasten in front and some in back. Pep
lums, which extend below the waist
line, are frequently seen.
Sleeves are in variety of styles.
Some are set at low shoulder line
and others are finished with caps. A
few are made very full above the ell
bow, but usually the fullnes is at the
elbow or slightly below. Wing sleeves,
semi-angel sleeves and modified bishop
sleeves are among the favorites. ODD
cuffs are also employed to give sleeves
a finishing touch. many being in gaunt-
let or flare effect.
Collars are in various forms. HlSn
standing. fiat and high back and low
front collars are all equally wen llkeo
Taffeta in plain and fancy erects, IN
stripes and plaids and Pompadour Ell
fectS are very popular, as are also Satln
surfaced silks, fables and other corded
effects. Joffre blue, rose tones, grays
from a slate to dove shade. green ana
pastel tones are the prominent coiors
for spring dresses.
The skirt of pretty taffeta dress Is
cut very full and has wide painter
drapery at each side. A wide girdle
of taffeta is embroidered in SILK.
yoke and OVERLAND collar are OF geor-
gette crepe.
A clever one-piece dress of navy blue
taffeta has gathered girdle of the
same. The flared skirt is finished with
four narrow ruffles. The sleeves are of
chiffon taffeta to match the silk.
street dress of taffeta. combined
with lace and chiffon, has wide girdle
with sash bow on the left side. deep
roll collar and turnback cuffs are of
white wolfe and lace. The skirt is
trimmed with two ruffled bands.
A spring dress of messaline silk and
chiffon is trimmed with marabou. The
pretty blouse is shrred above and be-
low the waist line, cut to two points
in the back. The collar, cuffs, girdle
and the bottom of the tunic are trim
med with marabou.
The combination of chiffon and silk
is seen in an afternoon dress Of taupe-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

colored chiffon. with Il satin stripe OF
natter blue. The tunc is Of taffeta,
falling in cascades at the sides. The
waist is made in surplice effect.
\ smart dancing frock is made of tai
feta, in combination with chiffon and
net. The skirt is cut fun, with novel
pannier drapery at each side. 1t has
a high collar OF silk. combined with
lace. and wide heIl-shaped cuffs OF
silk.
An attractive gown. combining fow-
cred silk with embroidered chiffon ha 4
the yoke, sleeves and wide panel q.
the skirt made Of chiffon The sGiri
is cut very fun with a double tier
drapery in pannier effect un each side.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
SKIRT.

to match the gown. Even bright con-
trasts are permitted.
1t is quite natura! that this should
be so, when many of the new spring
gowns have deep facings of brightly
colored ribbons that are intended to
show the Wearer walkS-for in
stance, a gown of graz taffeta which
has slight embroidery of cut steel
and self colored silk. it's wide hem
lined with broad ribbon or turquoise
blue with a white edge. 1t seems as
though the drescmakers We're not able
to leave the hens of the skirts alone,
for many colors are introduced in vari
Gus ways on the inner or outer surf1"e.
While this is the fashion. no one neil
spend undue effort in getting d pet
ticoat to match frock. Any color Will
do. provided il is not an ugly one.
Although black and white striped silk
appears in the directoire hats, par
asols, shopping bags and silk spats, it
does not appear in its old abiding place,
the petticoat.
Among the popular colors are purple,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

petunia cherry red. apple green and
copper brown.
There is no longer any doubt about
the return of the upper skirt which
goes by various names, but to the old
timer is better known as the over
skirt than tunic. 1t was included In
the revival of both the Louis Philippe
and the Louis XIV styles, and has now
caught hold of the popular fancy as
an excellent way TO either make over
a gown, or produce new color scheme.
Sometimes it appears as a Slorifed
pannier. even Sloritied hustle,
which is placed at the sides as well
as the back. Again il follows out the
.l,a OF the Brittany apron. from which
MANY of the shapes are directly Dor
rowed
There is strong effort being made
in France to bring back aprons on
afternoon and evening frocks, but so
far the suggestion has not met with
much success. What the future holds
no daughter Of prophet would at
tempt to say.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
Kitchen Convenience.

K EEP a high wooden stool With
strong rungS in your kitchen.
the gas stove which needs continuous :
stirring, bring it over and sit down.
resting your feet on the rungS When
the cooking is done you Will get up
much refreshed. Use it when You haI E
vegetables To prepare.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

fourth of a teaSpoonful of mace. The
mixture may be baked in patty tins or
small round loaves, if preferred, put
ting currants into some, almonds or
to be lighter in this way. The cakes
may be plain or frosted, and they will
grow richer with the keeping if placed
in stone jars.
Dried Apple Cake.
Soak a cup and a half dried or evap-
Grated apples over night in cold water.
then stew soft the day before using
in half cup OF molasses. Cream
together one cup sugar and half cup
butter Add two-thirds of a cup sour
milk, then the apples. Add next two
we'll beaten eggs. teaspoonful cloves.
two teaspoonfuls cinnamon, grating
of nutmeg and three cups -four sifted
three times over with half teaspoon
full soda Mix thoroughly. using the
hands. Have ready one cup seeded
raisins. two-thirds cup currants and a
little shredded citron. A few finely
chopped butternut or hickory nut
meats are an addition. Put a layer Of
the batter in a paper-lined cake tin,
then sprinkle in some OF the fruit and
nut mixture Follow with the dough. then
ter at the top. Bake IN a slow-bread
oven, covering the cake with buttered
paper, if inclined to brown too fast on
top.
Snow Jelly.
This is an easily prepared dessert
whose attractive name fits it's appear
ance Wash carefully four tablespoon
fuls of rice and cover with two quarts
of boiling sailed water. Cook slowly
without stirring until the rice is tender.
drain in colander and shake until
each kernel is separate and distinct.
Set aside to cool. Meanwhile have
soaking a quarter box of gelatin in a
half cup of water. Twenty minutes
for this part of the program is good,
more is better. Pour over the soaked
gelatin one cup of boiling water and
add one cup of sugar. Set in dish of
hot water until dissolved then mix
with the cooked rice. Whip a pint of
cream until light and dry and stir in
lightly with the rice. Flavor with
sherry or maraschino and pour into a
mold that has been wet with cold water.
Put in cold place until thoroughly
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16


NEW YORK. April 15.
E7HE merchants who sell materials
are in happy frame of mind
because of the amazing amount
needed for every costume. but
the thousands of women who buy their
own materials and have their gowns
made up at home are not so happy
because, with material at its present
price, the pocketbook has to stand
severe strain.
Everybody gives some excuse for the
further raise in the prices of fabrics.
and some of them are as foolish as
the one given by an old darby in
Aiken. He had been selling spinach
to one of the smart cottages there. and
when the cook complained of his high
prices and asked the reason. the darby
answered that it was the war. Civil,
Spanish, Mexican and European were all
one in his mind. All he knew was that
somewhere, somehow. prices had been
raised because of a war. and he was
going to get in on the high tide of
afiiuence.
Fortunately. there not enough
French novelties in fabrics to make
any reasonable rise in the prices, and
the American mills have been supply
ing for some time the same kind of
weaves that are demanded by the new
fashions. The prices are therefore
moderate.
Gabardine and serge are still at the
height of fashion: so are taffeta and
faille and chiffon. Georgette crepe,
Jersey cloth, brocaded silk or satin.
and even soft broadcloth, are serving
the seasons demands. \ soft chiffon
taffeta that has an embroidered gold
or silver flower is difficult to get and
lutte expensive. but it is the pinnacle
%! fashion for evening gowns
Moire cire is the novelty fabric of
the hour. 1t is purely French and eX
pensive. but it will probably become as
common as the waXed ribbon that
suzanne Talbot exploited in millinery
two years ago This fabric is now
used for ball gowns and raincoats and
the gamut between. Mart ct Ar
rnand makes the raincoats and Callot
makes the ball gown of this fabric,
and both are desirable. They might
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
VARIOUS DISHES FOR APRIL
Veal Birds.

Veal Birds.
~CY outlet of veal cut thin. Take
lM out all the fiber and cut
into small pieces about two
TO three inches. Pound these pieces
out, thin and fat, with a rolling pin.
Have ready a forcemeat made of one
half cup bread crumbs, one slice chop
ped salt pork, one small onion Drowned
in butter. bit of parsley, lemon juice,
salt and pepper. and held together with
milk or beaten egg yolk. Spread each
bit of veal with this forcemeat. Roll
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
Caramel CuStard.

CdIdllGl SuSIdIu.
Put one-half cup of sugar III Il
smooth frying pan and stir until it
melts and becomes a rich cinnamon
color. Pour ii into a pint of rich milk
or thin cream that has been Scalded,
add teaspoonful of vanilla. a salt
spoonful of salt and half cup of sugar
and let it simmer until the colored
sugar is absorbed. Set it away to cool.
When cold add the beaten yolks OF
eight eggs, strain to be sure it is
smooth; pour into baking cups and
set in a pan of hot water and bake UNI
til firm. Serve cold. This will make
eight cups. Or make plain custard.
putting In less sugar than usual Then
stir in two or thre" tablespoonfuls of
caramel made in this way:
Put two cups of granulated sugar in
a clean saucepan, set on the back of
the range and stir until it browns.
Pour into it slowly one cup of boiling
can for future use 1t keeps indefi-
nitely 1t is nice served as a sauce
with the custard or with apple dunn
pings.
Biscuite Ice Cream
To two quarts of whipped cream al
low four eggs, three-fourths of a cup
Oh thTee-louTlHS OF d cup VI
water and a teasponful of vanilla. Boil
the sugar and water together for TWEEN
ty-five minutes. Beat the whites of
the eggs to a stiff froth and gradually
pour over them, still beating. the hot
strip. Beat the yolks and add to the
whites and strip. Place the pan in an
other vessel of hot water and cook for
ten minutes. beating all the time. Set
away to cool. When quite cold add the
vanilla and mix the cream in lightly.
Pour in a mold and pack in ice and
salt. Cover with a piece of carpet
and set away for three or four hours
to harden. Four tablespoonfuls OF
maraschino or sherry may be used in
place of the vanilla, If preferred.
Plain Boiled Custard.
Scald a quart of fresh milk. using "A
double boiler to avoid scorchinG. Beat
the yolks of six eggs, add six table
spoonfuls of sugar and saltspoouful
of salt and beat again. In the making
of boiled custard the longer beating
of the yolks is allowable. Pour the hot
milk slowly into the bowl containing
the eggs, stirring constantly while so
doing. Never stir the eggs into the
hot milk or your milk will curdle.
When we'll mixed pour all back into the
double boiler and stir constantly until
smooth and thick, like cream. 1t will
grow thicker as it cools. Take from
the fire, strain, and when cool flavor.
Vanilla is the generally admired sea-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

be included in one spring outfit. to the
posSessor's delight.
Women are constantly asking what
this new fabric is and how it is pro-
cured, so it may be interesting to eX
plain that ii is plain MORE turned
wrong side out and heavily waXed
through a mechanical roller process.
The raincoatS have not the MORE de-
sign: they are plain silk done over by
the cire process.
No matter what material YOU choose.
whether cheap or expensive, you must
face the fact that twice as much of it
is needed formerly. And another
truth that must be faced-and this does
not bother the layman as much as the
experts that gowns are no longer
built up from one fabric. We have
slipped back to the days when women
thought it artistic to employ several
colors and materials in one costume.
This sartorial path should have a red
lantern and a barricade put in front of
it. for every step upon it is dangerous;
and. as it has been opened wide and
made easy for all wayfarers in fash
ion. we must expect to see many
atrocities committed in the name of
In searching for the reasons why
several of the new evening gowns have
high necks and long sleeves it is not
difficult to put the finger on them.
France, where these models were de-
signed. no longer approves of women
who wear decollete gowns. Even at
the theaters the smartest Parisienne
wears a frock that has tulle extending
to the collar bone. if not higher. and
this also covers the arms to the wrists.
This mode of dress is considered dig
nified.
Another reason why France is send
ing over SO many of the frocks is that
our social season is supposed to be
over. and our women may desire them
for informal evening gowns. the kind
that constitutes large part of the
continental woman's wardrobe.
There is growing tendency to
heighten the decolletage in the front
with transparent material. even though
it may be low in the back. the new
evening bodices are built of en-
broidered tulle or chiffon. Callot will
take tulle in three shades of violet.
like orchid. mauve and wistaria, build
il over a lavender lining and drape the
tulle to the base of the neck. drop it
over the back as cape let the full
ness cover the top of the arms and
catch it up at the wrists with brace
let of orchid satin ribbon.
Other gowns made Of tulle in any
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
Pound Cake.

The old rule, and there is none better.
calls for one pound each butter, sugar
and flour. ten eggs and a half wine
glass each of wine and brandy. Beat
the butter to a cream and add grad
ually pound of sugar, stirring all tho
while. Beat ten eggs without separat-
ing until they become light and foamy.
Add gradually to the butter and sugar
and beat hard Sift in one pound sift-
ed -four and add the wine and brandy.
Line the cake pans with buttered paper
and pour in the we'll beaten mixture.
Bake in moderate oven. This recipe
may be varied by the addition of
raisins, seeded and cut in halves, small
pieces of citron or almonds blanched
and pounded in rose water. Some old
fashioned housckeepers always add a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

ion. each of the new ones has dis
tention of the hips that holds out the
skirt placed over it. Brilliant colors
are used and there is no attempt made
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

reduction, and we are yet buying mar
row petticoats. including the sinking
ones of jersey cloth, which cling to
the legs like stockings. In some fash
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
Paris Brings Out Several Novelties Among FaEori

IA ORE Ce and How 1t IS Observation-Disclosures of Materials Take Jump Upward
w New Petcoas Exaggerated Hoopst Brilliant CoEOve Back
Agn-Puay Wide Stresh Delta NeckEnsh
andt the Uses Which They Are Put.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

high prices for the last two months,
and they have been copied in eX-
pensive fabrics.
So far there has not been a sweeping
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

Mix together Two and oue-half cups
of graham flour, one cup each of milk,
molasseS and seeded raisns, two small
teaspoonfuls Of soda, a pinch of salt
and a half teaSpoonful of ginger. Steam
two hours in u buttered mold. never
allowing the water to stop boiling for
moment. Serve with d hard sauce. or
the following liquid sauce, which is
one of the most reliable pudding
sauces made: Beat piece of butter
the size of an egg with pow dered sugar
until it is Il light cream. Set to one
side. Put = cup of boiling water into
a small saucepan and stir into it one
teaspoonfuI of -four mixed with a little
cold water. Cook until clear. smooth
and of the consistency of thin starch.
Take up the bowl containing the butter
and sugar mixture, and while one
beats it energetically let another pour
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

The Duchesse de Vendome is credited
in Paris with exploiting the so-called
delta decolletage. She is the distn-
guished mother of the recent royal
bride. the Princess Philippe de Bour-
bon, who was her royal highness
Marie Louise d'Orleans and whose mar
riage took place in Paris.
This delta decolletage is in the form
of a delta and is worn in the evening
by the smart Frenchwomen. 1t is quite
considered becoming to women, and
those who do not care for the extrava-
giant nudity of the last decade may
turn to this halfdecolletage with en-
thuSiasn.
A high collar is not necessary on
such gown. although many of the
Frenchwomen who are in actual mourn
courtesy in their dress to the millions
who are bereaved. wear a high, faring
collar of tu1le above this delta open
ing. Each woman must decide on this
for herself. because straight line
upon the base of the neck is not always
attractive, even when it is of trans
parent material.
The new delta opening has appeared
in some of the best jackets. These
coats are made of taffeta or faille a
present and will be made later of
Chinese silks. They fasten at the neck
with two or three sayly colored but
tons. then flare open in delta shape to
the waist.
The demand for petticoats makes the
mill men smile. At the present mo-
ment they are probably more eXag-
gerated than they will remain. The
reason is that the French houses made
a feature of them and sold them at
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
Queen of Puddings.

Take one quart of milk, one pint of
bread crumbs, the yolks of four eggs,
one cup of white sugar and the rind
of one lemon. Beat the yolks and
sugar together. then stir in the crumbs
and milk and bake until a light brown.
Beat the whites of the eggs to stiff
froth, stirring in four tablespoonfuls
of graduated sugar. Place over the
top of the pudding a layer of tart
jelly-currant is very good-and over
all spread the egg froth. Bake in the
oven until this meringue is a light
brown. Served either hot or cold, with
or without wine sauce, 1t is an APP
petZing dish. For special occasions an
addition of currantS. and raisins makes
this pudding even more delicious.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

chilled and set. then turn out on a fiat
dish and pour around it preserved ber-
yies or maraschino cherries.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
Steamed Pudding.

soning. but lemon is also used. SerV
very cold.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

and pin with toothpick. Salt and pep
per. dredge in -four and brown on all
sides in part suet and part butter; ado
one cup rich milk and let simmer for
one half hour. Heap in center of plat
ter and surround with boiled carrots cut
in small cubes. then green peas.
Any spring salad may be used, but
the following is delicious: Crisp white
sliced cucumbers. sliced tomatoes,
green peppers, asparagus tips, French
dressing.
Rice Pudding.
Into the beaten yolks of two eggs.
stir well one and a half cups boiled
rice. four tablespoonfuls sugar two
cups milk, two tablespoonfuls melted
butter. one-half teaspoonful vanilla or
same of grated nutmeg, then fold
in the very stiffly beaten whites of the
two eggs. Pour into a buttered bak-
ing dish. set dish in pan with water
and bake until 1t sets and is brown.
Coffee, Bavarian Cream.
Bavarian cream is most delicious
and especially nutritious. Soak two
scant tablespoonfuls of gelatin for a
couple of hours in a half cup of water
Add a pint of boiling hot strong cof-
fee that has just been freshly made
strain and sweeten to taste. Cool a
little. and while cooling beat a pint
of thick cream to q stiff froth Pour
in gradually the coffee and gelatin.
continuing the beating until the whole
mixture is thickened. Pour into a mold
and set aside to cool. Then place in
the ice box until needed Serve with
an abundance of whipped cream MANY
people who cannot drink coffee without
Inconvenience find that coffee sor,,ad
in a cream or jelly agrees with them
perfectly.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16
An APRIL LUNCHEON.

Decorations -Da ffodils or other spring
flowers
MENU.
Grapefruit
Stuffed Olives. Sailed Almonds.
Veal Birds. French Peas
Salad. Sailed Crackers.
Ice Cream. Fancy Cakes
Coffee.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-16

color have long. tight. transparent !
sleeves that reach to the wrist and
are guiltless of trimming. while Lam
win puts balloon sleeves of tulle or
chiffon into the evening gowns. gath !
ering them at the wrist into deep
ruffie of lace.
1t is evident that France, aided by
America, is determined to make the
most of sport clothes. At two of the
best openings in New York more than
100 models were shown in high-priced
suits for the opening. nearly all OF
which were of Jersey cloth.
There is a large Importation Of
sweaters from England. first. because
the Englishwoman is supposed to
wear the best sport clothes in the
world, and secondly. because English
prices are much lower than French
ones. France, as usual. is celebrating
her open-air garments and running the
prices of sweaters to such amazing
amounts that only d foolish American
would attempt to buy anything but
the cheapest. Channel asks 1920 for
one sweater and short skirt of Jersey
cloth to go with it, He embrolderS
sweater in gold thread
This treatment of such cloth only
shows that the French have difficulty
In understanding the real meaning and
use of the Anglo-SaXon sport clothes. |
If Deauville We're in fashionable swing
at the present time and Channel were
dressing the smart women there. as
usual, one would see many replicas of
this two hundred and-twenty dollar
sweater on women whose only exercise
consists in getting out of bed at noon
and dressing five times day.
The English sweaters are exceedingly
good looking and sportsmanlike. and
they shown with wide-striped
skirts, such as We're worn last year.
Not only are cotton. linen, muslin and
jersey cloth striped, but many of the
most alluring silk costumes are made
Of fabrics that have stripes woven in
Or suggested by applied ribbons. Callot
uses narrow Powered ribbon to stripe
black taffeta gown. and other design
ers put siX-inch black and light-blue
ribbon together to form a skirt.
Paquin will use velvet and chiffon
in stripes, and Lanvin will use black
and white either in woven material or
in stripes of silk sewed together.