Arizona republican., 1916-10-04

A coat of English cloth cut on exactly the same lines as a mans coat, spcllf service for more than one season.
 Of the Second Empire coat of maI hogany velour delaine with gray satin lining and krlmmer trimming, has raglan sleeves and fastens at the neck and hin Silk cords ornament the sides. Seven rows of stitching finish the bottom, the lining of gray satin matches the stitch ing.
 A coat of blue Bolivia cloth has Chasuble back. The straight panel back collarettes and stoles are like precious blue and Silver embroidery. The high col- lar, adjustable so 1t can be worn either open or closed, is of gray lined with blue. When open it takes the shape of fan-shaped Medicis collar At the slightly low waist line the coat belts itself across the front.
 An evening mantle developed in scar- let velvet has large medallion in front embroidered in black and gold. The high collar has black fox on one side and satin on the other, just as the cuffs are partly of fur held by straps of the material. A deep cape of the material is banded with the fur
 Of violet panne velvet a wrap glori. ously trimmed with touches of metal and chinchilla fur, has a deep pointed collar finished with tassel at the back The front section of the coat forms a muff with fur bands.
 Separate waists answer SO many ob- legations that we are as ever loath to forsake them. The sober colors of fashions rainbow are used with suits, especially steel gray, navy and deep red. Blouses of chiffon, Georgette, taffeta, taille, net and taffeta and satin often portray colors such as chartreuse, Copen! hagen, cyclamen and gold White, gray, maize or blush with or without black CT white lace, have long sleeves and open collars, or as fancy wishes high collars. The bit of color on sheer white blouses mark them 1916 models. Waists are often worn outside the skirt. A middy blouse of crepe de chine has the | fullness belted in with a sash. Then there is a close-ftting striped taffeta blouse which reaches to the knee and buttons down the front.
 A silk jersey waist has flower em! broidered on the left side with another flower embroidered on the opposite sleeve.
 White Georgette lace and flet lace combine to make an effective blouse. The waist has shell collar of the crepe inserted with a wide band of the flet, and edged with knife pleating of the crepe and 1t is brought around and fas- tened with a knot of turquoise velvet ribbon. The sleeves are of crepe with inserts of filet gathered very full of the. elbow and from that are huge puffs of crepe to the wrists finished with a nar- row band of the turquoise ribbon
 Serge and black satin comprise the
 most obliging one-piece frocks. Old time cashmere is again used Navy blue with black, black with pink, nattier blue with mauve, or royal blue with black are good combinations. One-pieceI dresses of taffetas, jersey, velvet, satin; charmeuse, ribbed effects, brocades and. pile fabrics-element are vital factors irI the trend of fall fashions. A marine blue charmeuse and black Chanti1ly lace combine happily in a dis tinctive gown. The corsage has anl unique stiff, wide charmeuse collar topped with a wide ruffled black net, collar. The long sleeves of black nett with pointed lace cuffs have three-quar- ter length over sleeves. There is a pleat- ed charmeuse skirt with the sides draped and the underslirt distended from the l hips across the back. Pleated black Chantilly lace shadows the front skirt panel
 The Russian dress lends itself well to 1.-the style of the moment A frock of bottle green plush has embroidered
 designs worked out with multi-colored
 beads. The pockets are lined with satin
 to match the material The belt stops
 in the front of the pockets, leaving the
 sides free. A stitched satin collar reaches nearly to the ears. The skirt IS banded with chinchilla and the same
 fur IS repeated on the waist. :.
 A one-piece dress of elephant gray 1 zibeline has cartridge pleats appearing in waist and skirt. The front of tha
 bodice is slightly gathered to a yokel
 and opens over a deep cream lace vesb The beaver collar fastens in front witl