davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

SCOPE grouping and regrouping of
brilliant splashes of color and beauty,
moving, shifting and sliding.
Never have American women worn
such goodlooking clothes, and this
may be explained by the fact that all
the leaders of style are in this coun-
try; the exquisitely frocked Americans
who usually drift over the European
continent from March to October. leav-
ing Rome at Easter. watching the ten
mis- matches at Nice. going to the races
in Paris in June and motoring up and
down the coast of Normandy and Brit
tany during July, to foregather at
Deauville the 1st of August and then
go on to London in September for the
new plays are in this country doing ex-
actly the same thing.
Clothes are perceptibly changing. Fl
will not need an announcement from
Paris next month to tell US that hoops,
panniers and faring skirts with ruff1es,
pleatings and puffings have been aban-
doned. Our women have foreseen this
decision and may have stolen the
thunder of France.
Skirts are full, yes. but they cling
to the figure so closely as to argue that
petticoats also have been Abandoned.
unless they are made of wash satin
with an embroidered scalloped edge,
which is the accepted fashion.
Wide tucks have taken the place of
frills. and picot edging runs riot over
all clothes.
Bodies have grown simmer and
simmer. until they have become moth
ing more than foundation for the
huge eighteenth century collars of or
CANDY, stiffened muslin or wired net
that rise high in the back, roll well
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30
WHEN TREATING FRECKLES

I7NHE girl of today, in all things
sensible, is especially sensible in
her attitude toward tan, freckles
and all the other/complexion disturb
ances consequent upon exposure to Old
sois too violent rays. In the days OF
Rgrandmamma the idea was, of course
Ithat no woman save a clodhopping,
heavy-muscled peasant would consent
to having her skin show signs of ex-
posture to sun and wind.
whether grandmamma were fair or
not, blonde or brunette, she would have
avoided touch Of tan or a crop of
freckles as she would the plague
even If to do this meant keeping her
face covered with heavy barege veil
or refraining from being outdoors at
all in the warmest, sunniest part of the
day.
This was in period when it was not
considered quite well bred for wom-
an to be too healthy. 1t was in the
day when girl with a No. S foot
pinched it into a No. shoe, when
eighteen-inch corsets were considered
medium sized and when the real LADY,
never showed more than the very tip
OF Her DAINTY toes. How shocked would
these dear old souls have been to have
seen their grandchildren as they are
today-rtding across country in the
very asme sort of saddle used by their
brothers, and guiltless of anything
more skirtlike than the peplum of a
riding coat; romping on the tennis
court in broad, fiat-heeled sneakers.
veilless, hatless and even gloveless.
with the sun at it's zenith.
Then the pendulum swung back
with a vengeance. Folk grew tired of
this too nice sort of girl, who guarded
herself with greater care than inmates
of a zenana, as far as compilations
go. And then came the rage for the
outdoor girl. Wells were discarded,
gloves were abandoned and sleeves
rolled up. The new fad took with a
vengeance. Young girls didn't con-
slider themselves quite smart unless
they could show a good coat of tan
Shopgirls back from their weeks va
cation proudly showed faces burned,
freckled and blistered: for such was
the indication that they had been on
an outing. Society girls returned after
a summer in the country with arms
and neck the hue of leather. and cared
not a whit at showing their young
shoulders with the line of demarcation
between fair skin and tanned in plain
view. OF course, this was period of
transition, and it did not last long.
And SO We have come around to a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30
Collars of the Season.

N1ANY changes in the appearance OF
AV4 a dress can be brought about by
varying the neckwear. Collar and cuff
sets of white organdy, edged with three
hemstitched pin tucks and embroidered
in each corner. are for practical wear.
An organdy collar shaped like the calyx
of lily, with high rolling collar in
back and two little capes over the Shout
der, is entirely edged in picot
Voluminous neck rufus are for summer
evening wear. One made of innumerable
folds of soft white net forms becoming
frame for the face.
With frock of colored linen surplice
arrangement is appropriate. A surplice
collar of white georgette crepe. embroid-
cred in white in a delicate trailing de-
sign and edged with val lace. should ex-
tend over the entire front of the bodice.
Finish the edge of the surplice at the
waist line with little ruff1e OF lace.
A double frill would also be pretty
with such a dress. The upper frill could
be Of white chiffon and the under one OF
4 set white net embroidered with tiny
ssS -,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

foreign countries. France reserving to
herself the right of creating her own
fashions when November arrives; but
the only spark of interest that the
preaching fashion openings. which are
to be held on scheduled time and in
large numbers. despite the fact that
every French heart has thought of
nothing but the great summer offensive
since the LIST of July, is that the Ameri-
cans. through necessity and sympathy,
will leave millions of francs in Paris
during the month Of August.
There is little in France today" said
the woman, that can give any new
ideas to the American woman for the
rest of the season. When the August
openings take place 1t is certain that
many changes in clothes will be shown.
but nothing startling or revolutionary"
She realized also that these ideas would
not get to America until September,
and not be adopted until October:
What caused her expression Of sur
prise and amazement after a years abb
sence was the smartness. originality
and bri1liancy of the clothes worn by
the American woman, in contrast with
those of France.
She did not find any original ideas in
this country; there was nothing here
that she had not seen by the dress
makers in Paris. and many of the &C
cessorfes of fashion which we are talk
ing about good deal she had seen
adopted by the FrenchWomen Tor the
last six months.
1t was the wholesale application of
these ideas and the altogether admit
rable way in which they were carried
off by the American women that gave
her a pleasing surprise.
She admits that she has taken whole
week in New York, going from shop
to shop, through the theaters and res
taurants and streets. just for the pleas
ure of seeing the thousands of well
turned out women who foresather in
and about New York. just as though
the social season had not entirely
ceased.
The long cool spring and late sum.
mer, and the more important fact OF
the lowering war with Mexico, have
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

IKE. the same klnO tnat existed curing
the Spanish american war.
Xxx
New York has been the mecca of the
American people, because prosperity is
spelled with ten capital letters. and the
average American idea is to deposit
for pleasure.
The wholesale call for the national
militia in June. which sent nearly all
available men to camp or to the border.
has turned the summer resorts into
veritable Adamless Edens. and few
women will consider any Eden that
hasn't an Adam.
Such, therefore. is the astonishing
situation that confronts America-cool
weather, abundance Of money and a
scarcity of men at the pleasure resorts
"a trilogy of conditions that have
made this country, especially the east
ern part of it, the best dressed spot on
the planet at present
Whatever exodus to Europe may have
been suggested was quickly nipped in
the bud by the great offensive which
started the LIST of July, with its request
from London that there should be no
travelling on the continent or to and
fro between France and England, eX-
cept by few persons on serious bust
ness bent.
The American women have no idea
of getting caught again in Europe, as
they were in 1914, and even the fashion
reporters. I among them. have decided
that it is quite useless to go to Paris
this summer to see clothes.
The clothes are here, and those which
are shown to the buyers between the
10th and 21st of August will change
hands rapidly in France and be sent by
the swiftest ships to this country. so
that we will see them here practically
before the French people do.
New York has lent itself admirably
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

and fathers and brothers in their hour
of pain or recovery. and not to make of
themselves birds of plumage.
The one bright spot in Europe" she
said. (which is look Id forward to by
the dresSmakers And women of fashion,
is San Sebastianin Spain: There are to
be the races this surnmer, and all other
forms of outdoor amusement which are
usually associated with DeauvIlle- King
Alfonso and his English queen are. to
be there for the season, and wherever
gay heart exists in Europe 1t will find
an outlet for gayety in that brilliant
spot on the Bay of Biscay."
She spoke of the Bots as having it's
usual number of promenaders and the
Bois du Boulogne as being filled with
the only happy class in France-the
children--uniess it be the soldiers just
they are the gayest and most smiling
people in that country"
Her belief is that the Frenchwomen
are not looking forward with any in
terest whatever to the openings that
Will occur for the American buyers in
August She knows France well enough
TO realize that these commercial affairs
are never intended, like so many politi-
cal notes of the last two years. for
home consumption"
The truth is the other way around.
France has always shrugged her Shout
ders over any idea that fashions are
settled during the three weeks that for
eign buyers are permitted to view the
clothes which have been designed for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30
Pointers ON Swmnmn@r Styles

point at the front. This girdle imme
diately suggests the line of the tight
bodice of the Marie Antoinette period.
The newest frocks. both of American
and French design, show this pointed
line whether on the girdle or the bodice.
The summer frock of thin fabric,
whether it be new or old, can be given
this new note by the addition of silk
or ribbon girdle made on pointed can
vas frame 1t is most convenient to
fasten this at one side with many well
fixed hooks and eyes.
Sashes, too. are much worn this sum-
mer, and one of the charming new
dance frocks shows a tight pointed
bodice and a wide ribbon sash drawn
slantwise at the regulation waist line
and tied in a bow at the side with long
ends reaching to the hem of the skirt.
One of the striking sash ribbons
shows crosswise stripes in the accepted
pastel shades, corn color. pink, blue and
white, or corn color, pink, green and
white This ribbon can be very eff
fectively finished with three or four
inch white silk fringe.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

There are many elbow sleeves-tight-
fitting ones, finished with frills of lace
"a fashion which has brought in the
soft, mousquetaire glove and the long,
Biarritz glove that has no buttons, but
slips over the hand and fastens with
strap and buckle at the wrist.
White. corded silk hats have worked
their way to the front and have taken
the place usually held by black ones.
They are touched with f1ange of black
chiffon under the brim and trimmed
with white or black peacock feathers.
fiaring, slantwise, around the brim.
Everywhere one sees the foolish little
belts that Cheruit first brought into
fashion and that Jenny made popular.
They are not more than an inch wide
and sometimes go around the figure
twice, Topped at the side with long
ends. III.
Steadily, but surely, the high waist
is creeping in The young women are
wearing these cravat belts well up
under the bust short jackets that
flare out at the hips.
The small, checkerboard silks in
white with a color have been brought
into the fashion by the young girls of
the Long Island set. They are soft taf-
fetas that closely resemble the best
quality of bingham at a distance, and
are made up without any trimming, the
slim bodice half covered with a cape
collar of old muslin that hangs within
an inch of the belt.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

! the Aston has invented, where hedges
and trees and hills seem to grow as
naturally in the upper ether as on the
surface of the Observation-Disclosures is the
choice, here one finds the well dressed
American women.
With all the money spending going
on in New York, with the dressmakers
so rushed through the summer that
they hardly have time to take vaca-
lions, with the restaurants filed and
the dancing as gay and lively as in the
earliest phases of it, there is no doubt
in the mind of the fashion reporter that
the good clothes are met together in
New York, even though they separate
and regroup themselves every few days.
The season on Long Island has pro-
longed itself, and the women who motor
in at MONDAY to sit beneath the foun-
tain at Sherry's for two hours while
they eat brook trout, ice cold salad and
cold tea in long glasses. touched with
strip Of grenadine. provide a fashion
picture every day.
No one seems to "stay put" this sum-
mer. Bar Harbor and Newport are not
sufficiently powerful to hold any one
+ for any length of time. California,
Texas and Kansas are represented by
women who are ordering new hats and
gowns, finding out the best new dishes
and going here, there and everywhere
by train and motor.
II one could get an aeroplane view of
the women on the continent they would
appear like a quickly turning kaleido-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

period when women have a very sane
and sensible attitude toward tan and
freckles. II a woman is going to lead
an outdoor life all summer. she real
from tanning. If she has a tendency
to freckles she can simply console her
self with the recollection that Nell
Gwynn. Louise Lavalliere and several
other celebrated beauties of the past
were also much be-freck1ed. and then
submit to her freckling process. In
the meantime she takes precaution. es-
pecially at the outset. that tho tan
ming process shall not be too severe.
She avoids blisters. which are quite
likely to leave a scar, and she uses
moderation.
For the woman who has but a few
days outing at a time the present-day
course is usually to take real precau-
ttions against tanning or frecklfng at
ming process is usually rather painful.
and if it is not to be permanent IL
might as well be avoided.
But in the meantime our ideas about
beauty have been changing. We no
longer think that the fair sex" Is pre-
ferably actually fair. The tall English
blonde and the sunny haired Saxon ara
not our only types of feminine beauty.
We admire the olive-skinned women OF
Spain, the Neapolitan and Roman girls,
with their nut-brown compilations.
and the piquant Partisan whose COM
plexion, Though never rudy, could sell
dom be called pale. Our present-day
idea of a typical American girl in
cludes in her many charms face and
arms evenly coated with a permanent
tan of health. Outdoor sports in win
ter are so usual nowadays that this
slight tan continues from year to year.
So here is the preventive which
if beauty experts were to tell the
truth. they would have to agree was
most effective. 1t is simply pure cold
cream and fine rice or any other harm
less complexion powder. The cold
cream should be put on rather literally.
rubbed in and only lightly rubbed of.
And the powder should be generally
applied with a large powder puff. OF
course. as a result, your appearances
will be not exactly what you might
wish. and there is no denying that IL
this treatment is to do any good the
powder will show.
However. if the skin is treated this
way it will Withstand even an all
day trip on the water without being
painfully burned, and If this treatment
is applied for the first three or four
exposures of the summer the skin, in
stead of being blistered. will acquire
the tan in an even coat
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30
Caramel Custard.

Caramel three tablespoonfuls of SUI
gar by putting it in a saucepan and let
ting it dissolve. Stir constantly until
the sugar is melted and of light
brown color. Beat two eggs without
separating until very light. add two ia :
blespoonfuls Of sugar, then one cup of
milk, mix thoroughly and add the hot
caramel. Pour into custard cups stand
them in a pan of hot water and bake
about thirty minutes
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

At any smart restaurant after the
theater hour or for lunch you can pick
up acquaintance from so many parts
of America, and even Europe. that you
feel as If some continental congress
were in session and that you will be
able to renew old friendships of every
kind.
These garden settings that New York
has achieved where once there was
brick and mortar lend themselves as
enchanting backgrounds to the gay and
admirable plumage of the women.
Whether it is at the Biltmore Cas-
cades on the twentieth floor. where a
panorama Of two rivers. a great bay
and an ocean stretch lends itself as a
moving picture to the scene. or in the
Japanese gardens of the Ritz, where one
dimes in black and scarlet pavilions.
with a stormy brook rushing under
tiny bridges and around rocky islands,
and where the guests throw bread to
the goldfish in the water and feed the
sparrows on the rocks, or in the Italian
gardens in the afternoon, where pigeons
circle and swirl to the floor and couples
dance through long pergolas twined
with flowers, or take their dinner in
the hanging gardens of Babylon that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30
Chocolate Farina Pudding.

~ NE pint Of milk and four table,
II u spoonfuls of sugar cooked in a
double boiler until the milk Is
hot, then add slowly two tablespoonfuls
of farina and cook ten minutes. Beat
two eggs very light, add one-half
square of chocolate. grated; to this add
the cooked mixture and bake in mod
crate oven thirty minutes. placing the
baking dish in a pan Of water. Serve
hot with plain cream.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30
Marshmallow PUDDING.

Dissolve two teaspooniuls OF granu-
lated gelatin in one-half cup of hot
water. strain and when cool add one
quarter of a cup of sugar. few drops
rf any favoring desired and the un-
bc,.cu whites OF two eggs. Beet ill IT,
setner about fifteen minutes or until i,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

Here and there, at the great and small
dressmakers, one sees women whose
clothes usually create sensations. but
they do not indulge in caprices. mere
ly ordering necessary costumes for the
change of seasons. No one would be
more Mortified than the dressmaker If
a really smart woman in France in
dulged in the vanity of clothes in this
stormy hour.
Even the clothes on the Riviera are
simple. for the women who are there,
no matter how large their purses and
how great their social power. are min
istering to the wounded. walking with
the blind and crippled and reading to
the conyalescent
They are there to be near their sons
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

~ f all fabrics chosen for the simple
| II II morning frock bingham is the
" most generally satisfactory, and
of all designs this season the striped
sorts are in the lead. The chief ad-
vantage about striped fabrics is that
they actually trim themselves. when
carefully planned in the making. A
striped bingham in red, gray and white
is very attractive when made with a
straight-gored skirt made up on the
lengthwise of the stripe, with large
stitched pockets running in the OPP
posite direction. A deep yoke and sleeve
portion is made of the goods running
| crosswise of the stripes with lower
waist section of stripes running up and
down of the goods. Striped Bingham
made with the stripes running diagonal
ly, meeting at an angle at the seam
running from the hips down the side of
the skirt. is also attractive.
Were designers to try to drive out
the jumper style they would be unable
to do it. For there is no style so uni
youthful, whether it's owner be sixteen,
thirty-six or sixty, than this-and in
cidentally no style that SO cruelty re-
veals a too abundant endowment of
frock-one that you can slip on before
breakfast and. II need be, wear till can
die light-a frock of this sort is exact
ly what you want, and in the midsum-
lner supply of wash frocks you will
surely want at least one jumper effect.
Linen Is always attractive when made
up in this fashion, but linen is very
high. A skirt and jumper of this in
dull sky blue would be very attractive
when combined with a girlish little
blouse made of some inexpensive null
embroidered with dots or flowers of
blue. The collar should, of course, be
open at the throat, and the sleeves
trimmed with little imitation valen-
ciennes lace.
Girdles are more in vogue this sum-
mer than they have been for several
seasons. Although the predictions made
when full skirts first appeared that
tight bodices would come in their wake
have not materialized, experience has
shown that the bouffant skirt does de-
mand at least the semblance of a waist
line. The girdle accomplisheS definite
waist line even If it measures twenty
eight or twenty-nine inches.
Perhaps the most successful girdle is
the one made with a decided downward
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30
SUMMER FOOD FOR CHILDREN

thickens. Pour into a mold and serve
with plain cream.
Orange Sponge.
Soak one teaspoonful of graduated
gelatin in a. little cold water for fifteen
or twenty minutes. then stand it over
hot water until thoroughly dissolved.
Add one quarter cup of sugar and one
half cup of orange Juice. Beat the white
of one egg very stir. Pour in the orange
mixture and beat all thoroughly. Stand
in a pan of ice water or in cold place
for fifteen or twenty minutes. then beat
again. Turn into a mold or small dish
and place on ice. Serve plain.
Crackers and Preserves.
A very delicious dessert is made OF
preserved blackberries or raspberries
and soda crackers crushed to powder
Serve by putting tablespoonful of the
cracker powder upon service oil the
berries, and pour cream over all. TINS
dessert is quickly prepared and Is a
surprise in it's delicious flavor.
Philadelphia Tapioca Pudding.
Cover one cup of flake tapioca with
cold water and let it stand two hours.
stirring occasionally with a fork to sep
arate the Jumps. Put in a kettle with
a pint and a half of water. Slice three
tart apples and add to the tapioca to-
gether with sugar to sweeten. Stir all
tokether and cook until the apples are
soft and the tapioca clear. Serve hot
or cold with cream.
Wheat Pudding.
Put one-half cup of any of the pre-
pared wheat preparations. about the
same quantity of sugar. generous
half cup of seeded raisins and a bit of
ground cinnamon into pudding dish
with two quarts OF milk. Put in oven.
cover and bake about two hours or until
thickened. stirring occasionally as the
top begins to brown. When nearly done
| stop stirring and let 1T brown nicely on
top. Cool and serve with cream
Cornstarch and Fig Dessert.
/ Make a plain cornstarch pudding. Have
ready some figs that have been stewed
gently for two or three hours. and serve
'ie .>iddinG covered with The s'ewea figs
.iteteaa OF milk Q. cam. ,-7t a..
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

to this situation: it has gone quite mad
over the garden idea, and 80 one sees
well filled restaurants between noon
and midnight, the women in smart
clothes coming from every state in the
Union.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-30

oNE-PIECE FRoCK WHICH GIVES
THE EFFECT OF A SEPARATE
JACKET AND SKIRT. 1T Is OF
Blue FABLE WITH CREAM
LACE VEST AND NARROW VEi~
VET BELT,