The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-04
By ELEANOR HOYr BRAINERD.
-HERE was a time when Amcr,.

cans laughed at "lc sport" n,
Paris dressed II, but that wa,
yesterday. To-day even tn.
most fantastic or impractical oi
French sports costumes would no:
cause a ripple of mirth or excitemen,
IN New York. n SO fast are the man
ufacturcrs turning out sports Clothes
or the latest types. so uncondi,ionally
is womankind surrendering to the fad
mat even the rcmotcst Of small towns
west. north. east and south, will ac.
cept a post -impressionist silk sports
costume calmly before the season /,
over.
but II IL not fair TO 1eer at this new
tashion mania 1t has It's funny
phases, It's ahsurdlties. its abuses. hu
on the whole II is picturesque and CAV
and convenient and adaptable. one
noes not need to choose the most spec
tacular thing offered. II is quite pos
siole TO catch the note of summer gay
ety without looking like n cubist pat
tern, and the larger part of the models
a. up for the American trade. while
not perhaps suited to the toughest 4
sports Wear. are practical enough for
most summer day wear In the count
or at any summer resort.
moreover these sports costumes are
very generally becoming and are tre-
comfortable. Small wond, r
mat they are having a riotous car,-r
OF hectic popularity.
II all began with the silk sweater.
NOT mat women had not had sports
costumes before, and attractive ones
out white serge or pongee or corduroy
sults and hand knit wool sweaters were
Tor . long time the limi, OF imagina.
uon n ambition in the line of sports
INCOMES Inc rest OF the money waut
~Aeo expensive blouses and accessories.
linen the silk sweater came Haunt
ing Its beauties along the way. and
tnose who could afford 1t. or who
couldn't anord 1t but had the money.
oought silk sweaters. hand made SIX
sweaters. at high prices. Immediately
women yearned for silk sweaters. and
the manufacturers poured on, "A t,nud
OF machine made silk sweaters u.,r
SILK sweaters. fibre silk sweaters A.,
10 meet the demand from those who
coul not or would not buy the hand
made article.
Ana hard on the heels of this silk
sweater idea came the debut of SILK
Jersey as a material for sports coats
ana sports suits. Since Their the de-
siShers nav given us sports clothes
OF SILK poplin, OF crepe de chine. Of
satih. even OF chiffon cloth, thong
thls last named material Is usually
combined with something a trine more
substantial. Silks have been woven
especially for sports skirts. and combl-
nations Of silk. such AS crepe and chlf-
ION. tussor and poplin, saAin and silk
Jersey, are numerous.
But with all this silken extraya-
ance the woollens have not been ell
bowed from the STAGE. They are SIN
the practical and desirable thing for
most OF the actual sporting urposcs
and no country or resort outfit is conf
Pie'e without "A oolle sweater or
sports coat and the woollen or tub
skirts to 20 with il.
The woollen sweater has los:
ground before the sports coat. ami
though still in demand is in the chic
wardrobe likely To be an affair of thin
but warm shetland ar fine angora for
wear under coats. rather than the
heavier woollen garment OF Old. The
shetland sweaters in gay and delicate
colors. with scarfs t. match, are dainty
yet very warm. practical and service
able and are excellent for slipping on
under the motor coat or any covcrall
coat, since they have little bulk. for
all their warmth.
Apropos Of things TO slip on under
coats. the walstcoats Of soft suede that
can be buttoned to the throat and
have long sleeves Of silk are smart
looking and, though designed orisi-
nally for the riding costume, are
pressed into service for general sports
wear.
Wool jersey is perhaps the woollen
material most used for the short
sports coat and the sports suit. Il
IA the advantages Of light weight
and ~suppleness and wears well. but
there is considerable complaint about
its saGging ~propensitics.
In various shades of rose. blue. tan.
green, purple and yellow il is used to
an extraordinary extent and new
shades in 1t are constantly appearing.
striped wool Jersey and other fancy
designs are offered too. though this
material is most frequently used in
b'''' '''i WIZ N'illtSA4HE tbibT OF
material in collar. cuffs. belt, SC, IL
there is contrast at all.
Plain wool jersey skirts with coats of
stripe have been successfully exploited
by Chanel and other French designers
n taken up by American manufac-
turers. and striped skirts with plain
coats. collared and cuffcd in the stripe,
are liked.
still. as has already been said, the
plain one color sports suit of wool II
very smartly cut and tailored and pro-
Nided with good pockets, belt. collar, |
&c, Is probably first choice among the
wool sports suits for the fastidiOus |
woman. She may select a bright color |
or AZ least n cheerful one. She doubt
less will. but she reserves more fantasy |
for her less practical silken sports gar
ments.
our artist has sketchcd several ah- |
mirahle models OF this more conserva-
tive Yet very modish class, but In black |
and white n OF course loses the
charm that soft bright color and de-
lightful texture give. a good suit in
tan or warm beige had a plain but
ample skirt, patch pockets ornamented