Arizona republican., 1916-05-05

IT TIE fashions of this coIu1na seassonscould be | described with any one word it would be composite" They repres em a great many different periods and they ssfve eviderCe of ercat many sources d inspiration. Although in the end they arc olir own foy a1 that i sought i. suggestion and what has gore before is modi- fed and adapted and changed to suit present day needs.
 The very latest adviccs from aero.s the sea assure us that Chinese embrcfderies gre to be extensively used. Chinese ooboring is being largely employed and the Chinese influence are apparent Some time ago 1t was dlscovcredtha the dressrnlkers aud designers were looking at Louis XIV perol and they arc giving us various evidences of that fh-. As natural sequence wc must look for Chinese effects for China became iiplomnicasy affiliated with I'rance during tke reign of the previous Louis and Chinese materials entered largely into the flshicns of h:s day.
 It has been said ,sd great measure.of truth hat the fashions Of today are not of ono sort, but arc ,f several, determined by the dress makers of Paris ard the women who follow in thc wake of enc adopt one style and the women who followed in the wake of anotber adopt another st yle This yeaT we have the Louis XIV influence just referred do we have the Eugenie period largely drawn Npon for suggs ston and we have still earlier nretee-,th century inhu- enccs apparent wherevet- we turn. Because of the interest in the vatious warning countries of Europe. the 2e1saf, costuE1es- are being studicd and considc-ed While 1t is to be hoped that designer of repute would not consciously nlke such comtinat;oits as the Louis XV period with the Eugesie, neverthaess modifCd- tions of al! these periods are to De found and there will he features of them Ill. worked into really new designs.
 The Chinese embroaieres referred to are always so rich and handsome that they make r,,i htttf fn otxya thp hoe cfha 10 be treated as they are by the great designer they must be sparingly used, in bits only and undoubtedly we will see embroidery suggestive of the Chinese inspirat sJn upon costumes. that are in no way related to the Lotus period The gown that is shown here makes good example It is made of Goorgette crepe combined with Pussy Willow and the embroidery giv,f just q little hint of the Chinese in the design nd in the coloring The skirt is simple straight gathered one tucked, with bands of ribbon for trimming and ribbon trimming makes an important and notable feature of the spring and summer fashions Ribbons never were more beautiful. They are to be found in the most exquisite weaves and plain col0s with dainty finished edges, and they are alsoto be bound in wonderful brocades and velvet effects that are superb. They are being used as bands upon skirts, they are being used for trimming of almost every known sort. They being employed for the making of the hand0mest 2irdles that the season has to show The7 are extensively used for trimming of hats Ribbon bows and ribbon trimming are fauiliarb but this season has brought us hats of straw with the crowns completely covered with ribbon.in new and entirely inter esting way.
 Some of the clever designers from across the sea are pulling the edges of the ribbon down between the crown and the brim to form an . irregular frill against the face The effect is a very charming one, ii is generally becoming and it certainly is novel A fancy of the season is for the hat trimming. the girdle and the little silk bag or reticuie. that must be carried with every afternoon costume if it is complete. to be made of one and the samr ribbon. A notable example shows broad brim Leghorn hat. the