davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
PRETTY REBELS IN FASHIONS REALM.

tended into a tab at each side, defined
by large white pearl buttons. The
waistline is slightly raised, dispensing
with q belt of any kind.
The skirt shown is cut to instep
length, but this greatly added length is
an innovation that is in the expert
mental stage. 1t detracts from the skirt
both in comfort and smartness. The
chances are that skirts will make some
concession to the new mode as to
length, but good sense will not extend
them below the ankles. The shorter
skirt is cleaner and better looking.
Two pretty rebels in the realm of
fashion have successfully defied the
law that hats shall be untrlmmed, or
almost without trimming. They are
pictured here, making room for soft
feathers in abundant ornaments. Then
decorations, in both cases, are made
of ostrich feathers. But all the feath-
ers that grow apparently are used for
the small, exquisitely made trimmings
that milliners are applying to hats of
velvet or felt or velours. These orna-
ments, like those of bead and silk en-
broidery, and tinsel and metal braids,
are fiat and they cling to the shapes
as If to efface themselves. But they
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

ture, would look well. 1t resembles a
branch of fine twigs with snow cling
ing to them, or the frost on a win
dow pane.
An all-velvet hat at the right has a
brim of medium width and n soft
crown. Everyone is familiar with os-
trich wreaths. The flues of the feath-
ers used In this n are long and
slightly curled. Their scanty arrange
ment gives the wreath a flowerlike ap.
~pearance. 1t looaS much like the beau
uful ragged chrysanthemums which
appear along with it in the fall. 1t
terminates in two standing half plumes
ut the left, back of the shape. These are
placed back to back as if to brace one
another up while they still maintain
that ostrich plumes are the best of
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
PITTSBURGH ON EDGE OF ASIA
In Baku Persian and Tartar Million
aires Ride In Jeweled
Cars.

I'm afraid that ! shall have to tell
my great-grandchildren that the Cas-
plan Is very little to look at. at least
from Baku, writes Ii. G. Dwight in the
Century. 1t has no color and 1t smells
outrageously of kerosene.
Baku, however, is something to look
Mt. (Baku is the Russian trans-C auca-
sian seaport on the Caspian sea- 1t
is a kind of Pittsburgh dipped in Asia.
and 1t tickled me beyond measure. Not
so long ago it was a wretched fishing
village inhabited chiefly by Persians
and Tartars, who were too stupid to
sell their land to prowling oil pros
pectors. SO those same Persians and
Tartars now roll in gold. And they
don't know what on earth to do with it.
The consequence is that nobody but a
millionaire can afford to live in Baku.
But what a fantastic hodgepodge of
civilization and barbarism! What
types! What costumesl What NOR
alsl
Above all, what motor cars-satin
lined, emblazoned, gilded, jeweled.
skithering there on the edge of Asia !
It's too good TO be true, but 1 shan't
tell you about it. What l want to tell
o about is a park the Russians have
made there on the shore of their Cas-
plan. They always do those things
well, o know. No green thing will
grow for miles around Baku. but those
russians have coaxed n few trees TO
sprout in tubs in that tidy little park.
n bands far better than l ever heard
IN Central park play you Ts~chaikowsky
II Rimsky-Korsakof. not to say Wag-
ner and Verdi and Bizet. And Won
see the extraordinary crowds
that lsten-the Russians, the Persians,
the Armenians, the GeorgianS. the Les
ghians, the Tartars, the wild, the
swarthy, the fiery, the rainbow col
oredl My son, when in doubt, 90 to
sat there in the park one after
noon, smiling their Caspian, tapping
my foot in time to their "Glinka."
When l suddenly made a discovery:
That coon song we used TO sing
when we were young, Lou. Lou. |
YOU" came out of Life for the
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
EXCELLENT DESIGN FOB SEPARATE SKIRT.

mer. As a rule colors are subdued, by
comparison with the bright and often
violent co~lor-cOntrasts in summer
skirts. But this does not signify that
they are duh.
The introduction of cross bars of
white or black on fabrics that show
color contrasts in plaids or checks
gives them life and sparkle. Pipings
of n plain color, matching the cross
bar, add a happy touch in the finish of
their skirts. This is apparent in the
skirt pictured.
This model is made with the front
cut on the straight of the goods and
the back on the bias. Both pieces are
attached TO a fitted yoke cut on the
straight and plped with plain white to
match the cross bar. The yoke is ex-
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

events has opened n new chapter in
the history of the American Negro,
a chapter more fateful than any writ
ten since the great reaction of apathy
settled upon the nation after recon
struction days. Once more the Negro
is becoming a vital problem.
The most impressive development
Of the last few days so far as the
Negro is concerned is the moral ia
tgue with which white people have
viewed him.. For a long time the
country travelled on the moral mo-
mentum generated by the abolition
lists and by the political results of
the Civil war. That no longer exists.
Outside of a small group Of rela-
lively dumb reformers, nobody cares
seriously. Disfranchisement is an ac-
cepted principle in the South. Jim
Crow" laws no longer arouse com
ment. Segregation is growing, South,
West and North. The most frequent
feeling on the part of whites is one
OF helpless, hopeless acquiescence in
forces which they feel unable to chal-
lenge.
The old belief in equality is dor
mant. Orators will not admit it. no
one whose political faith must be on
parade can afford to admit it, but
the truth is hat race prejudice was
never stronger. Not even the Chris
tan brotherhood of man is a owe
tul enough motive to weld together
different races belonging to the same
religious denomination.
Until the European war shut off i'm
migration and forced American in
dustry to summon the workers of the
South segregation of all kinds ap-
peared destined to grow greatly. The
movement was from below. Largely
1t lacked leaders. But it swept on.
same ruthless instincts and the
same moral fatigue exist today. Yet
industrial necessity has brought for
ward new factors. In the factory,
shop and construction camp another
future is opening.-John Vance Che
ney, in the Chicago Herald.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
FIX. &mmA
Use an Emptx Drawer

For the m who must press an
occasional waist, an empty drawer, in
verified, is a capital ironing board. The
wood at the bottom of the drawer, be-
Ing ~unvarnished, tells no tales of the
use to which it has been put. Where
a writing desk is lacking, an empty
drawer, Inverted and then partly re
placed, furnishes a roomy fiat space
for writing materials. The second
drawer of the average bureau is about
the right height for this purpose.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

tenng IN unusually large assembly of notables, a familiar fure ionad tbo,
a nu asked hem to congratulate him o his good Iuck. He had ucceeded. he
s"q,. IN nvendng an instrument by which people could talk from Baltmore
to Washington. H" D"u"Oe
IL is 10 be regretted that our learned American statesmen and nevsronor
men received the statement as a huge joke, and suggested that the only wov
me amable inventor could retrieve his reputation for sanity vs 70 t+
mem III to drinks. 1t was not until q few weeks slater when conprase made
IN appropriation for DIR. Samuel f. B. Morse to continue his work on a
telegraph I'M iron Baltimore to Washington that the tree gatherers learned
ner error md the fact that they had entertained a geniusu novnres since
uat time thu tree has been known as the Morse elm.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
caressed the Wronu Hand.

The Broad Ripple car was crowded
n she and her young man were stand
ing just inside the rear door.
She leaned against the young man
and he held to the door which served
as a support for the conductor also.
She reached over and patted a hand
conductors hand. Passengers
on the rear platform smiled. The con-
ductor winked and squeezed her hand.
Block after block the caresses con-
tinued. She looked %contentedly up at
her young man-and he didn't know
what he was missing mol what the real
platform passengers were laughing
about. Neither did she.-Indianapolis
News.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
New Discovery

Margaret, aged eleven, had just re-
turned from her first visit to the ZOO.
WELL" said her mother, smiling,
did you see the elephants and the
giraffe and the kangaroos?"
Margaret looked thoughtful.
I'VE saw the elephant and the gi-
raffe and the dang-ger-roos."
"What?" said Mrs. Blank.
"The dang-ger-roos. 1t said these
animals r D-a-n-g-e-r-o-u-s.'"
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
Pink for a Baby Girl

Why pink for a baby girl and blue
for the boy? The reason for the dis
tinction is not very clear. We are told
that in Russia and in America blue is
used in the preparation of the outfit
for a baby if the parents desire a boy
and pink if the preference is for a
girl, and then the old stork brings just
whichever one he pleases regardless
of-the color scheme so the wise moth
er uses both pink and blue in her lay
cite. A Russian maiden not only wears
pink In her girlhood, but adorns her
wedding trousseau plentifully with
this hue.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
AFRO-AMERCAN CULL|NCS

When Booker Washington pub
lished his account of his own life 10
years ago, at the moment the National
Negro Business league had just been
launched, before the library ut Tus-
kegee for which Carnegie partly paid
had been built, and before the famous
lunch with President Roosevelt, his
educational work was in full tide. 1t
Is now possible to see his lpbors as
a whole and in perspective, as we'll as
to give him credit for many accom-
plishments that with natural modesty
he himself attributed largely to cir
cumStances or to others.
The main facts in Booker Washing
tons career are well known: How
he was born in a slave hut in a re-
mote part Of western Virginia, a year
or two before the Civil war broke out;
how after the war his stepfather and
mother (his father is ~unknown) re-
moved to Maiden. w. Va, to work
there in salt and coal mines how, held
back by his step-parent but encouraged
by his mother, he learned to read and
attended night school; how in 1872
he walked, begged, and worked his
way to Hampton institute: and how
after his graduation from Hampton,
the path Of opportunity opened before
him when in 1881 he was appointed
organizer and teacher of n new Negro
normal school at Tuskegee. Many
may not know that the most important
day in his later career was that on
which he delivered an address in 1895
at the Atlanta and Cotton States In
ternational eXpoSition-one for which
President Cleveland sent him a letter
of thanks. A few doubtless know that
the last ten years of his work were
done with a body and nervous system
worn out by inceSsant labor, so that
repeatedly he was on the point of
breaking down. This is told in a re-
cent publication with all the detail
which is possible in a volume of 300
pages, and in Il manner not uuskilled.
The m~arshalling of facts is effective,
though there is some repetition: and
If the style is undistinguiShed and
sometimes awkward, and the general
paragraphs or chapters on the times"
of Washington vague and clumSily in
terpolated, the writer atones for this
by the manifest enthusiasm he brings
to his book. He feels, though he can
not fully express, the touch of the epic
IN this first great Negro leaders career.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
lLaces for Underwear.

Lace is always the fashion on under
wear, but the different kinds of laces
go in and out of style. At present flet
lace and Irish crochet are the smart
laces, but the fine valenciennes laces
are so beautiful they have a permanent
place of their own.
The edgings, insertions and medal
lions are used alone or with hand en-
brOidery, the latter, of course, adding
incidentally to the loneliness and value
OF the underwear. In evening under
wear ribbons, buds. chiffon flowers ana
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
Blunt ~Insinuation.

A fashionable painter, noted for his
prosaic output, was discussing at a
studio tea in New York a recent scan
dal in the picture trade. "Look here,
DC man." said a noted etcher, do you
paint all your W p%ictures?" 81
do" the other answered hotly, "and
with my own hands, too" "And what
do you pay your hands?" the etcher
inquired. I'm thinking of starting an
art factory myself"
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

are too brilliant to be lost sight of.
The hat ut the left of the picture has
a crown of velvet and a brim of felt.
II is one of many two-color shapes.
There are various color combinations,
occasionally a light and a dark
shade Of one color are combined in this
way. On almost any of them a spray
OF fancy ostrich, like that in the pic
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
Value Of LearnIna.

Learning, If rightly applied. makes
a young man thinking, attentive. in
dustriOus. confident, and wary; and
an old man cheerful and useful. 1t
is al ornament in prosperity, a
refuge In adversely, an entertainment
at all times; 1t cheers in solitude,
and gives moderation and wisdom In
all circumstances.-Palmer.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
Sailor Bands Match Dress.

The mannish sailor is observed I'm
many instances and varieties, although
the canotier shape, with a slightly
dropping, wide brim, was seen in larger
numbers. The most interesting note
about the sailors is the band. wide or
narrow, according to the fancy of the
owner. but made OF the same material
as the dresa.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
"The Telephone Ranq."

"And the telephone rang!" is the
burden of some verses read lately,
describing all the things that happened
and didn't happen in consequence. The
way one woman escaped wearlsome
trips up and downstairs in response
10 phone calls was by using a desk
telephone with a very long cord. Then
she took the telephone upstairs. down
stairs. or on the gallery, wherever she
happened TO be. When the bell rang
the interruption was at least close at
hand
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

stuck in the mud, and a passing rookie,
who looked like a soldier, was hailed
by the colonel, and told to send some
men down to help get his machine
out of the mud, and this is the way
Colonel Young told him to deliver the
message:
"The colonel of the regiment pre-
sents his compliments to the officer
of the guard and requests that a de-
tail of the guard be sent to help an
automobile out of the mud"
The rookie, of course, hastened>to
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
In Woman's Realm
separate Skirts, in Almost Any Number of Models, Are a Feature of
the Season, as Their Popularity Never Seems to Wane-
Two Millinery Models That Are Somewhat Diff
terent From the Ordinary.

The separate skirt, like the shirt
waist, seems to return every season.
Like perennial flowers, II is sure of a
welcome. Among the new models for
fall n winter there are many made
of plaid and barred woolens. a good
number In plain fabrics, and few
stripes. This is simply a reaction from
the all-prevailing stripes of midsum-
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

message: "e
mud" SCI d" ""o ~" " "e
Lieut. C. Anton Stephan, who heard both ends of the message has
ueVseu a scheme fol training the men in the repeating of messages some
INT ourlng the night different men OF guard are given a message he
su arus repeat IL % the corporal If the guard the corporal tells the sergeant
and thu sergeant carries the news to the lieutenant Then the massoSe aS
received and as sent is compared.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
NothInu Doino.

Anxious Mother-Your lips are aw-
fully red, my dear. / hope that young
man who just left DIDN'T
Pretty Daughter Cnterrupting)-No.
OF course he didn't. If my lips are red
it's because he made me so angry 1 bit
them.
Anxious Mother-Did you get angry
because he tried TO kiss you?
Pretty Daughter-No; because he
didn't.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

years ago this was the popular resort
of the nations statesmen, who were
wont to assemble beneath its shade,
tilt their chairs against it's trunk and
spin many historic yarns, punctuated
by well-aimed salvos of tobacco juice.
Here, also, came the newspaper r
respondents from newspaper row, just
above the hotel on Fourteenth street,
and heard the latest political achieve
ments discussed with careless in
formality.
One day when the tree was shell
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
GirdIes of sill

Brocaded silk for girdles and other
trimming is in demand 1t gives the
same sort of touch of color that en-
broidery does, If skillfully used, and.
of course 1t is far less work to tuck
In a bit of brocade than it is to en-
broider even a simple pattern by hand.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

with commemorative exercises OF
dignity and eloquense the little log
cabin that was LincOln'S birthplace has
been set apart as a shrine. One lesson
Of the great life of the e~mancipator. n
lesson for two races and for all man.
kind, has been that the humblest origin
need not prove a mortmain tc check
the Will to rise. The Southern Work
man tells the story of one who came
'up from slavery" in an Alabama town.
The father of John Guss Frazer was
a freedman. The son went from the
farm to town and entered the service
of a tailoring establishment. He was
paid 30 cents a day for errands and
odd jobs. He watched the others
press clothes, and soon he had an iron
IN his hand n was earning a dollar.
Finally he bought the business. Then.
with n chair, he started a barber
shop. He bought and sold cattle. He
purchased a cement-block machine.
made his own blocks and built n
three-story building to hold the bar
Der shop, a store, a lodge room for
rental and an undertaking establish
ment. He built a house for himself
and beside it a cottage hotel. The
buildings are all of them erected on
the very ground where his father once
worked as a slave. Yet there are
cynics who hold that a man who is
born to a lowly lot in life must fold
his hands in the tacit acceptance of a
pr~ovidential dis%pensation, and deny TO
the world the inspiring pattern of toll
answered from tranquility"
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

British aviators have found that
horsehair cushions provide enough
elasticity to counterfeit the vibration
of aeroplanes and make the use of
magnetic compasses possible.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

A machine has been perfected in
saxony that embroiders designs mn.
Ion three dozen pairs of stockings at
once, a battery of needles making 2s8
stitches simultaneously.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30
Different system.

MY wife constantly posters me for
money. Does yoursf'
mo; the people she buys things
from do that"-Boston Transcript.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

A recently patented combined type.
writer table and chair fold together
to form a cover for a machine and to
economic floor space.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

Numerous economies are claimed
for a new automobile that can be run
by gasoline or electricity or a combi-
nation of the two.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

The steady advance of the American
Negro is a conspicuous proof of the
principle that progress can be had by
peaceful methods. Year by year Tus-
kogee institute issues a Negro Year
Book which is a sort of log of the
forward movement of the race. The
1916 edition has just been issued.
At the particular moment the mat
ter is one Of unusual national impor-
lance because of the new migration
which is sending Negroes from the
South TO the northern and western
states. The European war seems to
be opening closed doors to the race,
With the stOppage of immigration and
the actual dearth Of labor in some
fields fresh opportunities have come
TO the farm workers of the South. Ne
groes are replacing aliens from many
nations.
This industrial migration will
doubtless have far-lung effects. If
1t advances sufficiently it may lessen
the tension of the race problem in the
South. At the same time the greater
educative facilities of the North and
West are likely to play a powerful
part in making the southern Negro
something different.
Altogether the unconscious turn of
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

AS a race, the tallest people in the
world are the Bororos, of the south
west of Brazil. They average six feet
four inches In height.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

Several French lighthouses have
been equipped with lenses that enable
their lights to be seer from fifty to
sixty miles at sea.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

OF English invention is a new lubri-
cant for cutting screw threads in ain
minum more satisfactorily than here
tofore possible.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

In times of peace London contains
l6 embassies and legations represent
alive of foreign countries.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

The Chilean government has ap-
pointed Il commission to make a study
OF the water power available for nv.
d%roelectric development.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

Several types of compressed air on.
Grated hosting machines have been
designed for use in places where the
fire hazard is great.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

pale colored satin ribbons make the
lingerie so fascinating that it seems a
crime to cover ii with a dress.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

Skins Of the damson plums are be-
ing utilized in England to produce a
blue dye.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

Pliers have been patented by an
Illinois inventor to split insulation and
remove II from wires neatly.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

A sanitary guard has been invented
to prevent persons handling spigot
outlets.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

Lightning is more frequent in Ill.
nois and Florida than in any other
states.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

A dredge built in Holland for The
government of Uruguay crossed the
Atlantic ocean under its W steam
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-30

hold nt only the 10 clubs but a rubber coat and hat fin nroStdont oIvYors
takes with him when he gofs. PNN"' AWAY"
ne PRESIDENTS golf game is characterized by steadness and care. He
pay what Is knoWn as a short game" taking two shots to cover n dis
lance panee another player might attempt in me-. The presidents long suit is
putting. He is steady and accurate.
Fresden Wilson's definition of golf may be nw TO sol epeorle He
says: Golf Is a n Intellectual attempt to put an elusive ball inoa an obscure
hole with uncomfortable instruments"
Most of the presidents gofng is done 1t the Washington Country club
across the rive in Virginia. This is a small club made III mostly of govern.
ment officials, people from the Smithsonian institution and the scientific
bureaus. There are n social features; it is exclusively golf
Players at the club have learned to treat the president as he likes to he
Gated merely another member of the club. He is 10Y no sneciaI
consideration or courtesies. He is always traled by the secret service mon
The president always takes the eaddes as they come and nayS ~
caddie 30 cents, the customary charge for IS holes.