davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

single velvet leaf and each leaf ate
tached to the main stem by three small
rhinestones. Morning gIOries are
formed of gold gauze painted in deli
cate shades of mauve and with leaves
of green, and mauve colored cycla-
mems have leaves OF sheer silver lace.
Velvet roses in pink. mauve and blue
have leaves OF black chantilly lace
edged with chenille or black net edged
with jet. The stems are covered with
leaf is outlined. Orchids are used in q
single flower with sprays of maiden
hair fern. In addition to the natural
shadings there are those in cerise or
bright coral.
This time OF the year, when SO many
theater parties are being given, de-
mands pretty matinee costumes, and
the first one pictured is a very dressy
suit of plum colored matelasse cut
Russian style with deep bands Of black
fox fur. The sleeves are bell shaped
and the draped fur tirban is very
smart. The next costume is rather
more striking in it's shepherdess effect
"a navy blue and white wide striped
satin combined with navy blue panne
velvet. The quaint little cape with it's
pointed, tasseled end is mOdish to a
degree, and the bands OF skunk fur give
ballast to the design. This costume
must be carried just right in order to
realize itself.
Maroon velvet develops tho hand
some suit with its double Hare OF
squirrel fur The skirt is full and the
shoulder line of the loose sleeves is cut
low. Squirrel skin also gives the high
color. This suit is made of such lux
uriant materials that they carry the
design without other trimming.
The next outfit is of tan velOurs and
a green pin stripe cut with a marked
flare and banded with narrow seal
The trig little cap to match has a
black silk tassel held by a seal pompon
and matches the stole scarf. The last
costume is somewhat dressier, a re-
ceptfon gown of brown silk net COM
bined with wide velvet ribbon and
lynx fur. Velvet ribbon sash ends
held by a pink French rose make a
very attractive girdle. The simple
bodice has odd cuffs fur edged, while
white fox scarf gives a dashing
touch to an already graceful design
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

ter1a1s the important place accorded to
wool jersey cannot be overlooked.
This material was advanced some two
or three seasons ago merely in ex-
perimental way. Smart women looked
upon it doubtfu11y and did not favor
it with any marked degree of patron
age. For one thing, it seemed to re-
semble too closely an old time under
wear fabric and one of the names by
which it was ockinette-in
dicated its apparent lack of suita bi1ity
for the expression of outer raiment.
7 However, the exigencies of the in
cipient season have forced the atten-
ton of designers and manufacturers on
jersey cloth. 1t has the advantage of
being very light in weight, and, if
properly cut, its stretching propensi-
ties are mininized- Last summer
there was a good deal of silk jersey
used. It had the advantage of being
costly, which kept it more or less ex-
elusive. Doubtless we shall hear more
about this aristocratic member Of the
jersey clan as the weeks go by and
winter gives way to the spring season.
Just now, however. it is the wooden
fabric that is arousing greater inter-
est, since it is being employed for
the beach suit. In between models in
dictate that smartly dressed women are
not averse to adopting it for the street
tailleur.
Every one feels that the Spanish
movement in dress is bound to be a
success, although it's progress will be
slow, and it may be that the minor
features of this new style will be
adopted before the entire silhouette
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

eraIions of dress in the matter of be-
comingness is the neck line. If you
have a becoming neck arrangement
you have done much to solve the
problem. AS a general rule, it may be
said that the front of woman's neck
is more graceful than the back and
that the collar that shows the turn of
the throat or collar that is actually
high is more becoming than the collar
that marks the Zine of decapitation."
1t is only the very young and very
beautiful who can stand the trying eff
feet of the collar that shows the back
of the neck, the line below and behind
the ears.
Another thing that makes for be-
conningness in the neck arrangement is
neatness and simplicity of outline. The
bunchy, complicated effect at the neck
gives a Earring note that detracts from
the appearance of the rest of the gown
One reason why the simple kerchief
effect worn by the Puritan women of
old was so generally becoming was be-
cause it was perfectly simple in con-
struction.
Another detail Of dress that makes
or mars becomingness is the sleeve
ending 1t seems needless to say that
the sleeve that is supposed to be long
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01
For a Babu' Lauette

YHHE latest idea of a suitable and
convenient receptacle for the new
baby's Iayette is to provide a small
wardrobe which has its interior fitted
one half with drawers and the other
half with a closet and hangers. Such
9 wardrobe will suffice for the young
ster for many years after it has passed
the baby stage, and if it is selected of
a wood to correspond with the mothers
furniture it will look well in the room
and be more durable than a wicker bu
reau.z
Some OF these wardrobes have deep
drawer at the bottom of the shallower
drawers which will hold afghans and
bulkier wrappings, while the top draw
ers win hold the tiny silk and wool
shirts and hannels, the slips and petit
coats and the dresses. The little coat
and wrappers hang on the scented pad
ded hangers in the closet compart-
ment.
a very nice hamper for the baby may
be manufactured out of a frewood box
or shirt waist box. The latter may
have it's lid padded with cotton wad-
ding on top and then be covered with
dAalun or cretonne. Inside a little till
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01
. . oe . . . . . . 0 . . . . . . .

should be long enough to cover the
wrist, yet how many dressmal1ers there
are who habitualIy cut our sleeves Off
an inch too short! There is nothing
that so enhances the beauty of the
hand as the cuff that is long and trim
and well fitting.
The part that colors play in the
matter of becomingness cannot be-
overestinated. Much as would dis
like to go about in a colorless world,
the truth cannot be denied il the fact
that the darker colors are more gem
orally becoming than light colors. Yet
if lighter, brighter colors were well
combined and well selected this would
not be the case. Perhaps it is well to re-
member that, next to black, dark blue
is the most easy color to wear; dark
gray and such dark shades as tete de
negre other dark browns and dark
greens come next then light neutral
shades of tan and gray
The greatest detraction from becom-
ing dressing is woman's endless quest
for the new effect. If you have found
the style that really is becoming, why
not be content in sticking to it? 1t
can be adapted to the requirements of
changing fashion, and no one but your
self will become weary of it.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

ONLY one woman in ten dresses be-
corningIy.
If you study the dress of women you.
meet at the next reception you attend,
at the next club meeting or when you
ara taking a walk in the city streets
you will agree with this verdict. And
you also probably will agree that the
trouble is not usually because they
do not spend enough money on their
clothes that they do not devote
enough thought to the subject. The
trouble usually lies in the fact that
they think of their clothes quite apart
from their own individuality. They
judge a piece of fabric merely on it's
merits, whereas one should never Sc
Iect material for a gown without con-
stantly having in mind a vision of
ones own personality, the hue of the
complexion, the defects as well as the
good points of ones face and figure
1t is a hackneyed remark to say that
a thin tall woman should not wear
stripes running up and down, and to
saw that the short fat woman should
never indulge her taste for trimming
running around about. But even
though oft repeated it is apparently
still unknown to many.
One of the most important consid-
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

may be added with the aid of two
wooden supports on the sides of the
box. The till may be simply a wooden
framework with denim bottom and
loops on the sides to lift it readily.
The interior of the box and the inside
of the lid should also be lined to match
the outside of the box, which then. is
quite ornamental as a window seat
when not otherwise in demand. A
wooden box may be painted and en-
ameled outside if you do not wish to
cover it with cretonne. Baby's initials
can be added on top in gold letters.
A hamper recently made for baby
had the inside of the lid filed with a.
great bow of pink ribbon to match the
other trimmings. This bow could be
removed and temporarily attached to
the coach afghan at will.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

The high collar. in the low evening
gown is the first attempt to establish
the new idea.
AS for the farthinga1e, that reed that
distends the hips and allows the edge
of the skirt to fall Imply toward the
ankles, it is already seen at dances.
One has to go back to the sixteenth
century to get the origin of the far
thingale, and the fact that it lasted
through the seventeenth century is a
commentary on its popularity. But
one must look to New York and not
France forFits revival in the year 1916.
Long before Jeanne Lanvin, Worth and
Poiret started their Spanish move
ment a designer in New York had her
manikins wearing it. This was as long
ago as last April.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

R OW that new fashions are be-
NH ing shown there is a particu-
~ lar interest attached to the
materials used for the COM
position Of the same. since fabrics have
good deal to do with the beauty and
style OF any given model.
1t is known that the dearth of dye
chemicals will influence the use of
light colors. The latter have been in
q state of restraint and allegiance dur
ing the past several seasons because of
the tremendous vogue OF black, dark
blue, dull brown and certain of the
green tones. Now, however, it is stated
that the dye shortage will make almost
imperative the adoption of pale colors.
White, of course, is supreme always,
war or no war, and following white we
shall probably see biscuit tones and
pale gray being particularly favored.
Silk fabrics have not been as Sc
riously affected as the other textiles
Less silk has been used than worsteds,
azad therefore there is more in reserve
upon which the present fashion makers
may draw; also there are many bril-
Aantly hued silks which fashion retired
as too pronounced or gay for average
wear. but which may now be brought
forward to ill in the gap made by the
usually desired and heretofore obtain
able colors.
For the tailor made there is a tricot
BaDeEu1ne, winch, as ITS name 1nd1-
Gates. is a straight across weave, diff
Terminating it from the diagonal effect
OF the gaberdIne of other seasons. Just
now It is well liked in dark blue and in
cream. French serge, which is a per-
ennia1 favorite, is exploited in several
OF the newest tailleurs. Speaking gen.
orally, it is unadorned and depends for
patronage on the faultless lines and
perfect workmanship of the high class
models.
A lot Of Worsted checks are being
advanced: they are of the duvetyn
order, but have a more decided nap
than their immediate predecessors.
Although checks are to be excellent,
according to the high authorities, the
variety that is being Endorsed just now
Is more of an outlined bar design than
that of the regulation check. One
notes that these pIaids have light
grounds barred in dark colors.
In scheduling the list of new ma
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

which also have been revived as a
feature of the new models.
In some instances the collars are al
most waist depth at the back, and they
emphasize the long shoulder line which
is now considered modish. In many
cases the sleeves are banded with a
friIIing or ruching of the collar fabric,
the latter being expressed in white
lawn, organdie or net.
Flowers, both natural and artificial,
are at present the most desirable
adornment on the voIunninous skirt or
on the bodice. The boutonniere for
wear with the tailored suit is usually
a single flower Of medium size, encir-
cIed with various flowers stiff1y ar
ranged. Roses, gardenias. peoples
and carnations are correct. Apples of
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01
SHRED OYSTERS

(tHOP twenty-five large oysters fine.
add the beaten yolI1s of two eggs,
two tablespoonfuls of cream, sufficient
dry breadcrumbs to thicl<en and salt
and pepper to taste. Fill the cleaned
shells with the mixture. Put little
pieces of butter on top and bake in a
quick oven until lightly Drowned.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

Folks need a lot of loving in the morning
The day is all before, with cares beset-
The cares we know, and those that give
no warning;
For love is Gods own antidote for fret
Folks need a lot of loving at the noon
time
In the battle Iun, the moment snatched
from strife
Halfway between the waking and the
croontime,
While pickering and worriment are rife.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

First-Cotton.
Second-Paper.
Third-Leather.
F'ourth-F'ruit and flowers.
F'ifth-Wooden.
SiXth-Sugar
Seventh-WOo
Eighth-India rubber.
Ninth-Willow.
Tenth-Tin.
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01
~ #: Need a Lot of Loving

Folks hunger so for loving at the night
time,
When YEARLY they take them home for
rest
At slumber song and turning out the light
time
OF all the times for loving that's the
bestl
Folks want lot of loving every minute
The sympathy of others and their snliIel
Till life's end, from the moment they be-
gin it,
Folks need a lot of loving all the while.
Ladies' Home Journal
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

Such designers as Premet, Beer and
Lucienne advocate the return of the
elbow sleeve for thin dresses. Indeed,
many of the most charming models in
corporate the short sleeve, which, it
must be confessed, seems the logical
accompaniment of the fchu-lilze collars
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

Eleventh-Steel.
Twelfth-Linen.
Thirteenth-Lace.
Fourteenth-Ivory.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT.
Twentieth-China-
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES.
Thirtieth-Pearl.
FOrt1eth-Ruby.
Fiftieth-Golden.
Observation-Disclosures
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

than the front Perhaps this not be criticised but rather to be praised
kindred ensemble
may away tat has
stately
fashion An instance Of this found in dress Of
shades the cornfower the
polished of azu according the light strikes It.
Chimes tafetas
interesting bouses with flesh ooor white
yOw avorte coors Fluffy uches
Of that
The Bridgeport evening farmer. [volume] (Bridgeport, Conn.) 1866-1917, 1916-03-01

~ gown separate blouse down the back The ines
by the effect Of yOuth-and might also say
Wearer.
In the majority of instances buttons used where
sometimes continued from the nape of the neck
sort of decoration appears also the front of the gan
the whole it is considered chic to have them
It may appear broad statement to say that the desi
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-08-15
ASHES OF LATE JOHN
ALFRED MAG0ON TO BE
INFERRED AT NUUANU

Mrs. John Alfred Magoon, widow Of
the Honolulu attorney who lost his
life when be fell from an unfinished
fridge in Baltimore, Nd, arrived here
today with the ashes of her late hus-
ban. She was accompanied by her
daughter, Mrs. Orville N. Tyler, Capt
Tyler of the 4th Cavalry and EtoG
Magoon, her son. >.
The funeral services were to be
held at o'clock this afternoon from
the family residence at Keeaumoku
and Lunalilo streets, to which friends
and acquaintances of the family are
invited. Interment was to be in the
Nuuanu cemetery following the SER
vices and at a time convenient to the
family. Services at the cemetery
were to be private, with no pallbear-
ers in attendance. Rev. Henry II.
Parker, pastor of Kawaiahao, was to
officiate. J.: ~. -....=.. =:
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-08-15
GERMAN OFFICIAL
CABlEGRAMS

GERMAN HEADQUARTERS RE.
PORT, Aug. l4,-Western war thea
Southwest of Thiepyal and Po-
zieres roads the English yesterday
morning had entered our most adj
vanced trenches, 700 meters long
They were elected last night by eoun-
ter attacks. Before Guillemont and
the line adjoining south, hostile mass
attacks were repulsed. The enemy's
losses were the heavier. Likewise
two strong FreEch attacks in the dis
trict of Maurepas, east of Hem, broke
down. Only now it was reported that
the French on the night of August Is
attacked the village of Fleury and our
positions east. They were flatly re-
pulsed. Hostile hand.grenade attack
yesterday northwest of Thiaumont
works tailed. On and south of canal
Labassee lively fighting is going on.
Hostile patrols frequently are more
vivacious. Especially northwest OF
Rheims, strong accommodating detach-
.ments advanced after extensive fire
preparation. Enterprises without sue
cess. East Bapaume English aero
plane was forced to land in an air
fight. !. e.. # ..:@
Eastern war theater.- Hindenburg's
front. hostile thrusts were repulsed in
the district OF Skroboy and Oginisky.
At the canal south of Vygonouskoye
lake. German detachments dispersed
Russian yanguards with considerable
losses for them. Near Zarecse, on the
Stochod front, engagements against
advanced enemy was decided in our
favor. Strong hostile attacks direct
ed against Luck and Graberka dis
trict, south of Brody, were repulsed.
New attacks failed. Parts Of the enc.
my which interrupted repulsed by
counter attack. More than 800 pris-
oners we're brought in. Also west Of
Monasterzyska the enemy attacked in
vain, and suffered great losses in our
fire. Balkan front.-Nothing import
ant. Even feigned activity of the enc.
my has ceased. .."....,. ..-. ~.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-08-15
OCEANIC BOATS
TO HAVE MORE /.
single BERTHS

The. Oceanic line has arranged a
very definite improvement on the
Sierra, Ventura and Sonoma in the
service between San Francisco, Homo
lulu and Sydney, according to re-
port from San Francisco. On each
vessel Is staterooms are to be remod-
eled to single passenger instead OF
twopassengeT cabins. HUI -
Work already has been finished on
the Sierra at Pier 81 In San Francisco
with this intent and there will be quite
a change in the cabin accommodation
of the liner when she arrives here
August 81. 49,. -.
The upper decks of these steamers
have always had something of the
western ocean idea of beds and
berths," just like a hotel, instead Of
hunks and deck walk to the bath
room. <.1-.. III.
But the passenger department of the
company has pleaded so hard for more
rooms that the change is
being made. The Ventura and Sono-
ma will go under similar changes
when they arrive at San Francisco.
They win also have the wooden deck
ing renewed as has been done on the
Sierra. .-.. .. -. F.. -. ...s: T..
The Spreekels interests are also
for .,ther improvements in
the way of service and the general
comfort of passengers while passing
through tile tropics ~. ! r..
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-08-15
.FUJIMOTO HELD;
CHARGEISFIRST
Degree MURDER
First Arrest Detained and Other
Suspect Released for Lack
.. OF Evidence ~. l.. /.

The latest developments in the
WAIKIKI murder case are the arrafgn-
ment OF VI. Fujimoto in police court on
charge of numbering II. Emoto> on
the J. y. Castle premises last Thurs
day night, and the release of NJ Ka-
nemoto, the other suspect. Fujimoto
will have a hearing before Judge Mon
sarrat Friday morning.
Forestalling habeas corpus proceed
ings instituted Monday afternoon in
Fuiimoto's behalf by Attorneys Lorrin
Andrews and W. ]. Sheldon. Sheriff
Charles H. Rose placed a charge of
first degree murder against him. The
defendant had been held for several
days for investigation and Judge Ash
ford scored the police for such ac-
tions.
Andrews and Sheldon, appearing
this morning for Fujimoto, said they
were ready for the hearing, but Prose
cutting Attorney Chillingworth asked
for the contin rance until Friday on
account of the indisposition of the
prosecution principal witness, Tome
Emoto, who was nearly killed with
her husband and who is now near
death at the Green's hospital. ~
Il have been informed" said Chill
lingworth, that the woman will either
be sufficiently recovered by that time
to give us some valuable information
or will be passed beyond recall
Arthur McDuffie, chief of detectives,
ordered Kanemoto's release, after the
latter's proffered alibi had been In
vestigated and found to be flawlessr
according to McDuffie. -. -. ~.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-08-15
MAINLANDERS
ARE AFRAID TO
COME TO ISLANDS

Thousands Of people want to come
to the Hawaiian Islands, but are
afraid to do so because of the uncer.
tainty OF travel" said Charles x,
Frazier, who returned today on the
Matsonia from the nationl meeting Of
the Ad Club held at Philadelphia.
There is feeling on the main,
land" continued Frazier, that after
enc gets over here it is extremely diff
fieult to get away and this Is keeping
many from coming and should be cor.
rected." ........ ... -
That the Hawaiian spirit. has IT,.
Vaded every section of the United
States. even to the small hamlet, and
las become a fad at all entertain
ments is the good word brought by
Frazier.
Il did not enter rneater, cafe or
any place OF amusement but what
heard something appertaining to- the
islands, and everybody is singing Ha-
waiian songs. have never seen
anything take hold OF a people as
the spirit Of Hawaii has" said Frazier.
Nov, II Honolulu wants tourists 70
come here It must assure them that
the accommodations will be sufficient
to take care OF every one, and IL 1t Is
not done Honolulu will never receive
the enormous patronage that she de-
serves"