The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-09
Paris Arbiters Of Fashion

The house has shown us liking fof
loose. full coats t~oo-coats narrow at
the shoulders and faring below to
very ample fulness at the bottom.
One Cabot model in dark blue serge
or gabardine with a loose coa Of this
type trimmed in many rows Of mar
row waxed braid and made with q
high. straight. braided collar has At.
tanned speedy popularity. and already
one sees the model worn on the street.
glad Of something different from the
ubiquitous. slightly ftted coat ripping
full below the waist line.
An Egyptian model In black tulle
and gold has been brought over In
most Of the Cabot collections, and
though sometimes shown in gray and
silver or other combinations Is dis
tinctly at it's best in the black and
gold. Trained effects on clever lines
and evening skirts more than ever
irregular about the bottom are other
Cabot notes and the frocks embody-
ing these ideas. and but little faring
or bouffant. have been bought so
quickly that in many cases. they
could not be shown publicly.
Indeed. the importers say that their
! imported models are selling more rap
idly than ever before and certain
houses that plan for elaborate OPEN
ing displays of importations have dis
posed OF 80 many French frocks to
private customers that their opening
programmes have been considerably
cur,ailcd. No one Is going abroad to
do her own Paris shopping, n that
fact doubtless accounts for tho pick
s.v - ~ -.lNf. AAos ..o sLA
fruits of buyers hazards.
or course there are women too fas-
tidious to wear tho gowns shown and
offered to all the world and for them
private orders filled: but the New
York drcssmakers Of the best class are
likely to have an extraordinarily big
season this year and already the adap-
tation Of foreign models n the pro-
ducirg Of variations upon French
ideas arc going mcrrily on.
The first warm days at the end OF
March brought out a good many
spring street costumes and frocks.
though with accompanying furs. The
best were. rs is usual in spring. "
dark blue. with occasional attractive
things in the beige. sand. cornstalk
and kindred light shades. Checks were
even more numerous than the dark
blues and less chic. There are far too
many Of them and their similarity is
more aggressive than that Of the dark
blues.
Once in a while a checked suit Of
marked distinction looms up on Fifth
avenues horizon and proclaims its
sMArtness as far as one a see il.
but in between these exceptions flow
streams OF checked suits at all prices
from $1.9S up. and each one proclaims
its ambition loudly instead Of sinking
into the background as does a darl;
blue suit OF little merit. Among the
imported models one finds very few
checked suits or trotting frocks. 1t Is
to the domestic manufacturers tina,
the food Of them Ia due.
The combination Of two materials In
n model extends to street wear as
well as to dressier costumes and some
Of the smartest Of the dark blue suits
and frocks are built up OF cloth and
silk in the same color. while occa.
} ionally the silk used shows several
colors. though the cloth is in one tone
Skirts OF silk almost hidden under
: folds Of cloth and lower sections OF
, cloth joining hip yokcs or upper Sec
tons Of silk We have had for a long
time: but these methods OF combining
two materials are still with US.
The overskirt OF cloth opening all
the way up the front 10 show a petit.
o "a of the silk figures in a number
of the new tailored models. Bernard
. and Gcorgette both showing a liking
for this type OF skirt below a com
partively short coat or Goa bodice
Bernard has also a very wearable Goa,