The daily telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1901-1926, 1916-09-29

When the faisses restored their pre-.
ents TO the princess. afterwards fame
Tor her 100 years nap, they made he
good and lovely, rich and wise, but i
modern times sleeping beauty" woul
wish to have conferred upon her Ia
gilt OF dress instinct" fer the Ameri
can women crave that as most preciou
boon. Nowadays we must credit heI
with. possessing it, for the standard o.
good taste. and the understanding q
what to wear places the American
woman in class by herself.> There i;
nothing frivolous about studying the
clothes. problem. Those who give It the
most thought and then apparently for
get IT are the ones most practical and
best dressed.
Autumn is the season when the great
est fashion changes occur. The practical
sartorial ideas originated without the as
sistance of foreign designers, has given
US worldwide fashion reputation.
Inspirations for fall garments have
been taken from many periods and coun-
tries. Russia, the ancient costumes of
Poland, the Moyen age, Louis Fifteenth
period, are among those that contribute
their quota.
Broadcloths, velour de lainc, velours,
duyctines, gabardines, zibelines, jersey
and pile fabrics are the materials gem
orally sought for. Features of the suits
are the longer coats and skirts. Ii may
be safely affirmed that the skirt within
a few inches of the instep is. no longer
rated dowdy as it was a few weeks
previous.
The question raised as to the width
of the skirts. TO be worn with the three
quarter length coat is answered by saying
that heavy materials do not exceed from
three to three and half yards, the
wider skirts of lighter weight material,
know no limit to the yardage.
The waist line isyS lightly above the
normal in some Of Tie tailor suits and
separate coats. Collars are high and hug
the throat closely. The military collar
high fur collar, or collar turned bacl;
with wide reyeres to show the vest, are
prominent.
Sleeves are snugly fitted at the top, SET
In at the regular or extreme shoulder
line, though certain types show unex-
pectcd fullness at the top.
Fur, braid and embroidery are used
iavishly for trimming. All skirts have
some fullness at the top with ten.
dency to push the fullness to the back
Modified circular, pleated effects ant
many gored models are used. Skirt!
distended by stitching at the top of thu
back or below hip and knee continue II
be worn.
There is pronounced vogue for tn,
long tunic and various pannier ideas
One cannot refrain from mentioning
pockets OF every description.
"A two-piece suit of elephant gra,
broadcloth trimmed with smoked fur ha
three-quarter length jacket semi-fittet
back and front. Fur bands are run I'm
der short tabs of the cloth outlining eacl
side of the front. The collar is Of fur
Deep pockets on the coat are fu
trimmed. The long sleeves are set il
at the normal arm hole with tab trim
ming. The cloth belt is trimmed throug
the center with fur band and cut j
one with the front. A belt made of fu
is run through cloth slashes on the fu
skirt,
"A blackberry colored broadclot
trimmed with seal is made in simple cor
sentative lines. The medium lengt
jacket is collared with fur. The JACKIE
has the back fitted and scanned. TIL
side portions are gathered at the line @
the waist and extend over the skirt O
the jacket. The skirt has plain fror
panel and gathered side. Below ban
fine stirring, there is a pocket at eac
side of the front panel.
Separate coats are made in bot
straight and fare effects. With the eS
ccption of sport coats and sport" thes
days is an elastic term, coats are IS t
48 inches long.
Belts are used on motor and sire,
coats. Collars of every variety from til
high standing collar to the cape an
sailor collar are different-very differer
this fall both on the coats and suits.
/. Notifications of kimona styles and be
sleeves or those with fuliness caugt
at the cuffs, are seen on the utility coat
There is q call for coats of mixture
tweeds, velours, checks and plaids, wot
velour, broadcloth and pile fabrics. Fl
trimmings again have liberal use.