Evening star., 1916-10-01

tions. Their handiwork is superb. the
material is gorgeous and the prices
well. they are beyond even the pa
thence of the rich. Those who have
watched clothes through September
sit and laugh, for here they see things
reversed-the costly original appear
ing after the cheap imitation.
Is it any wonder that the women OF
wealth and fashion are irritated over
being offered almost the identical
things that have been bought during
the four weeks preceding by those
who forced their way to the bargains
early in the crush?
Not only one class of people but
several are interested in the trick
turned by the house of Callot in wait
ing until all the other. French houses
had shown straight, full and longer
skirts. before it threw out on the smart
world extra short skirts with narrow
er hens than we have had for two
years. short coats and evening gowns
that are short in front and have long
trains at the back
The latter feature was not shock
ing a surprise to the buyers and the
American public, because several
houses, notably Doeuillet who has a
wonderfully good collection this year
had already attached train to an
evening skirt. 1t was the shortness of
Callot's skirts that shocked. This
house absolutely changed the silhouette
of the month Not bit Of fullness
was allowed in its skirts, except what
straight line from the waist They
not only displayed all of the ankle, but
a goodly portion of the leg above it.
The coat suit which this house turn
ed out seemed to have been modelled
after the costumes of the Scottish
troops. The skirts were tilted straight
and so abbreviated that even the hard
ened buyers gasped. The coats, with
their metallic buttons narrow belts
and long sleeves. were not unlike the
| uniform jackets worn by the killed
troops.
II the buyers thought that the house
would make dignified evening skirts to
offset the introduction of the train.
they were mistaken, for the skirts were
from twelve to fifteen inches above the
attached at the waist or shoulders.
spread out behind. This silhouette
made one think of a kangaroo leapfng
through space with the aid Of its strong
tail, it's forefeet raised high in air.
Four years ago Paul Poiret exploited
in Paris and America very short
faring minaret skirt with long train
spreading out on the floor. and even
the grace OF mis- amazingly smart man
nequin. who wore it. Paquerette, could
not keep the onlookers from bursting
into shouts of laughter and derision.
But all the eccentricities of the house
of Callot have not equaled those Of
Paul Poiret. and the buyers, although
expecting the capricious and bizarre
from both these houses have never
failed to be more surprised at what
Callot did than what Poiret did. This
time there was no procession Of man
nequins at the house of Paul Poiret, on
the Avenue d'Antin, so the new house
Of the Callots, on the Avenue Matignon.
in the Champs Elysees. garnered all
the thrills over clothes that there were
in Paris this year.
How any woman with a sense Of
-umor II not sanity, can wear the CAL
lot evening gown in it's entirety, realiz-
ing how much she looks like a kan
garoo in full leap. will be difficult
question to explain. Let us hope that
with this, as with many another &c
centric French fashion. the public will
be amused and pass 1t up, keeping only
that part which it likes.
There Is no doubt that it is the train
| on the evening gown which counts, and