The sun., 1916-08-20
ARISIAN y RECKLESS
Periods and Peoples Madly Jumbled
In Early Styles, but With
@f- D--.t
Charming Results

, receive. II cleverly used. ana that 10, IL
appears. to he extremely modish.
And, by the way. the fur belt,
whether running all the way round or
used merely across the back. as In
this Jenny model. is seen upon numer-
Gus costume coats and separate coats
and Is often successful.
Another Jenny model, and one likely
to achieve swift popularity. losses only
a high fur collar as tribute to Russia
and combines a jaunty. straight short
coat back with a long wasted Moyen
Age front without inJuring the. feel
ings Of either. The material-weI1. the
material is dramatic French; for Il
IL velvet Of the new red-bivouac-
and its beautiful rather dull tone holds
n suggestion that hurts II one be over
sensitive to associations. Where but
in France could n In all serious
ness and patriotic fervor classify a
color as inspired by the blood stained
soil of the country"7 One must TAXI
ones fashion very seriously to lend II
such aid as that without wincing.
But II II q lovely color. this
bivouao red. warm without being
bright. and It will doubtless be much
used. There Is n little cloth. along
with the fur. in the trimming scheme
Of Jenny's bivouac velvet model. and
this cloth. on the o a fronts. along
the lower edge OF the low belt and
around the cuffs. Is embroidered
lightly in dull gold-more symbolism
II one chooses to take It 90. though
Jenny probably applied the gold only
because Il looked well
The straight. soft. very high fur
collar Of last winter Is evidently to
have another season. though the big
rundown collar and cape collar Of
fur will he much worn. The Russian
feeling insures the new lease Of life
for the high straight collar: and.
where It .s not quite plain. II nay
perhaps be less high. though close and
straight and may have a little stand
ing or turnover collar of embroidered
cloth or velvet above II.
Martial Armand. FOR instance. gives
to one of his models a straight medium
wide band OF fur around the throat
with n little standing collar Of gold
embroidered dark blue cloth rising
above the fur. the points quite high
at each side Of the chin. A narrow
Ire OF the embroidered cloth falls be-
low the fur band around sides All
back. This model has a Louis XIV.
hack - much distinction, slightly
fitted. with the typical Louis Quinze
hint OF graceful curves and with en-
broidered motifs ard bound button
holes decidedly OF the period: but tho
front OF the coat-Rnss!an. Indublts-
bly, Russian. straight. full. belted. yet
melting tremendously into the Louis
Nv. back and with nothing 6~lssonant
about the harmony.
Bulloz loves the Russian-he loves
the Italian. too. but that's another
story-and lie does much with the
low waist and straight long front lines
that are classad as Moy,n Age. He
has a deep ivory cloth mode, trimmed
In Hudson seal in which the Russian
collar and tune and the long waist
are most fellcitously combined.
B~roadcloth Is once more in favor.
hut soft. light. glossy zibelines and
cloths OF the velours de laine type
have not lost n OF their hold upon
the public fancy. and velvet promises
to be enormously worn. I,odier, the
magician of the French textile world,
has achieved IA fibre velvet" which
Is to velvet what fibre silk Is Ia silk
and which is likely to he used greatly
as a substitute for velvet. lie has
brought out a new cloth. too. concern
Ing which n hears much and which
the French dressmakers have bought
freely. so that We are fairly sure to
see many smart models built up of II.
II is OF the loose woven, rather
rough homespun class. and is known
as Burella cloth. the texture having
been modelled. so report says. upon
Soma OF the cloths worn by the
monks. As for colors-who shall saw
what will moro surely and generally
appeal TO feminine fancy and he the
fad color Of the winter season?
So far the soft browns are much In
evidence. There are beautiful reds for
which the French show a lihing-the
new hivouac, ruby and the wine shades
being dark enough for satisfactory
street wear.