davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1916-09-24

cut in one from neck to hem. but held
in loosely by narrow girdles, Many
are narrowly plated, Almost all have
effective touches OF embroidery and
fur is on a large percentage Of them.
Indeed the fur mania Is already be-
coming q post. The cheapest model
must have It's fur or near fur and
there is something ineXprcssibly for
lorn and tawdry about cheap fur upon
cheap materials. Where n can af-
ford good fur. we'll and good. by that
Is not meant sable, C%hinchilla. genu-
inc seal, &c, but rat and domestic cat
and poorly dyed concy and similar
pelts have neither beauty nor ele-
| gance.
Rabbit. In some Of its dyed forms. Is
effective. and muskrat, OF curse. as
sumes many acceptable guises. but
We are evidently to have IA delugc OF
shoddy, cheap fur trimmings.
Most OF the suit coats have fur
collars-high %chokers. high roll collars
or big cape collars: and many Of the
II piece frocks in cloth or velvet also
nave these fur collars. Naturally such
a collar-the chin or stock collar in
particular-would be a torturing thing
for Indoor wear. but some Designers
have been sane enough TO make these
! collars detachable or. more clever still,
to make them so That they may be
worn as tight chokers or loosened and
50 turned down that they appear to be
merely wide fur bands across the backs
Of satin or chiffon nat collars.
Sometimes a very deep band OF fur
trims the bottom Of one Of the straiGh,
n piece frocks. Sometimes there arc
only narrow bands or. perhaps, onl,
collar and cufTs. The dark blue serg,
Ia first favorite for this class OF frocks
but serge In other %colors, velvet. satir
and chiffon cloth or s%eorgetts crep,
are frequently chosen.
The dark blue serge Is likely TO have
bits OF colored embroidery In wool OF
silk. and metal for trimming. and tn,
straight ono piece frock Of satin o.
velvet. at its best and simplest, offer
has thread run metallic embroidery
spiderwebby designs in fne DUH and
silver. thread.
Ono especially good looking mode
Of pronounced simplicity and an elc
gance equally pronounced ~ OF mol,
color satin in beautiful quality. heavy
yet wonderfully supple ana very lus
trous. 1t Is straight as a pipesten
and Is held about the low waist lin,
and hips by a narrow girdle of thu
satin wound loosely twice around tn,
body and knotted at the back.
a very wide band Of the metalli,
threaded tracery in dull gold and silve'
~vA - - -- A
a shoulder yoke of the embroidery AM
more Of the embroidery about the wild
elbow Of the tightly cuned lonl
sleeves. Embroidery. too. Is on tn
satin ball buttons. There 10 q littl
collar of genuine moleskin and line
Of the fur on the cuffs.
Mole Is one Of the most successfu
furs and limitations Of It abound. som
Of them unqualifedly bad. some at
tractivs in color. though mono hav
The sun., 1916-09-24

the beautiful lustrc and shadinrs Of
the real mole. Al Of the taupe shades
and the smoky ana soft rrays are cx-
trcmcly modish, not only I'm frock ana
suit materials but for relieving colors
with the dark blues. burgundy.
rrunelle and various purple tones.
The French makers have ,ised n
good deal of satin and velvet in rrays
and of The volycty finish woollcns as
well, trimming them sometimes with
gray FUR. sometimes Viii brown FUR,
which is C~uriously successful upon GER
tain shades of gray. Docuillet has n
conservative ms lovely satin model
in this smoky gray combined win
gray chiffon embroidered In duh silver
and trimmed in kolinsky.
A Bulloz model which has appealed
10 many buyers is in dark blue FIR
serge and gray volvet-the velvet of
the radium quality. llGht and supple as
satin. Practically the entire bodice
and tho upper part OF the skirt to a
point below the hips are OF the gray
velvet. narrowly side plated. The rest
OF the skirt Is Of plated blue serge
and a loose. straight slashed n cir
died coat cover the gray velvet OF the
frock entirely and Is trimmed In gray
fur.
Bullos. by the way. has sent =
some exceedingly good models this
autumn, after slumping a bit last
spring. One Moyen Ago evening frock
Of his In cream lace. wonderfully EN-
broidered in gold and silver and yelled
in black tulle gold embroidered. has
found great and well deserved favor,
and he has some delightful 'little
frocks' OF tho straight type. with Gu
The sun., 1916-09-24
JMN FROCKS ON PIPESTEM LINES; SOME HAVE TRAINS
Mania for Fur Manifested in Diversi,
fled Collars on the Suit Coats.
Embroidered Trimming Popular

to hem, ana worth's clever brown
satin frock and coat. the satin coat all
brown and fur trimmed, the skirt from
the hips down killed and Of satin. the
rest Of the frock beige cloth-or was
Il lustreiess silk crepe ?-absolutely
without waist curve and embroidered
in stitchery Of brown and dull red and
dull gold.
One could multiply examples. but
some Of the French houses have been
little affected by the epidemic.
b Jenny. In the main. clings to waists
slightly nipped and skirts full and
fiaring. She never goes as TAR as the
curious front frills on the skirt ton
OF the sealskin trimmed. deep red
tafYeta that figures in n Of our
small cuts. George,tc. too. shows
some faring skirts and fitted waists,
| as, for that matter. do most Of the
houses, particularly in connection with
| youthful looking evening frocks.
Cheruit has some stunning coat
costumes. and Drecoll. as usual
The sun., 1916-09-24
Paris Models Display Many Variations
Of the Moyen Age Type in Evening
Gowns and Utility Frocks

that do great credit to the traditions
of the house.
There s the black velvet Of our GEN.
trial sketch, for instance. exquisite In
materials. effective and stately In line.
No moyen age note here but the fitted
and pointed basque and the draped
oveTskirt and train over "A petticoat
Of beautiful black lace. No color but
brilliant and pearl trimming to tighten
the bodice and add to It's festive air.
There 10 another Of worth's black
velvets that has appeal to many buy
ers. and It. too. has the fitted bodice.
but the skirt is set up over the bot
tom Of the bodice with a full heading
that makes the waist line look smaller.
and the skirt. though full and trained,
Is not draped up. Brilliant again are
some crushed pink roses tucked into
the bodice front and trimming the
tiny sleeves.
This house has Q liking for embry-
onic but definite sleeves Of tulle in
connection with decolletage, and one
finds the same tendency in the models
from various other houses. though
there are still plenty of the extraor-
dinarily naked effects with only
shoulder straps to assume bodice re-
sponsibilities above the bust.
As for trains. well. Paris Is unmis-
takably flirting with them with a view
to honorable proposals OF serious we'd
lock. There are more trained frocks
among the models this autumn than
there have been in several years. Often
the train Is quite separate from the
raSt az NhA alt-t a~ 800 -..Gt.. -
thrown yer the arm. In several in
stances 1t il so arranged that 1t can
be hooked up to form n very graceful
back drapery when the wearer prefers
TO have 1t short. but can be allowed TO
trail at will.
A very charming evening frock OF
black velvet. black tulle. silver cloth,
silver lace and jet illustrated this
arrangement. Tho underskirt was
Of black tulle, Jet embroidered over
cloth Of silver and shirred very full at
the Sides. Over this was draped a
front panel Of black velvet. and in the
back n small square train Of velvet.
lined with cloth Of silver, hung loose
from the underskirt or could be caught
up to the girdle. forming a graceful
drapery and showing gl!mpses of the
silver lining.
Double rains appear on several good
models-two narrow poin,ed section.
falling side nv side. held loosely 20.
gether in some way for half THAR dis.
lance and then dropping in separate
noipt.
while practically ali n, Pho SHIRT.
are longer than thew have beon ma.
ioritv of the trained models s,i,I have
moderately short fronts and sides or
undertakes entirely short with trains
entirely seporate. There arc bouever
n few frm.i, .u,.;, a. i,.v,. h.,., mon,
The sun., 1916-09-24
WHAT WOMEN, ARE DOING

hosiery: that, in short. they must r..
member that they arc dressing foo
business and not for a bali. And THIS
is not tho only employer who takes
such q step.
But suppose the poor dcars are
dressing for a ball? Suppose Mamie
who lives in The Bronx has been asked
by her beau to go to a dance at 3, aud
she works on lower Broadway and
doesn't get through till after 6. or
nay he has TO stay till Z or later 70
help the boss out with some letters
and there isn't possibly timo TO get
home and shed her working toys and
put on the glad rags-especially with A..
a car strike on. as seems the normal
condition now say. what is poor
Mamie to do II she can't dress for the
ball before going to work?
There are several things these men
who object to fancy dress on their stc-
nographers might do. They could de-
clare Saturday "A day Off. To he sacred
in the lives of working girls 10 dress
and dancing. No doubt the girls would
be glad to arrangc to do their party
going on that one day and hc demurs
little grubs the rest of tho week. or
! the bosses could provid" pr.mp.u;
rooms in their establishments aud THO
end Of tho afternoon off on party
nights.
DR.. Anna Howard Shaw on De-. tr .
South last winter after her severe IL
ness stopped off for = visit will Mrs.
Ella Bigss. president Of IL" N!ss.s-
sippi Woman Suffrage Ass"'iat ON. \
white haired old negro in th' aoti.'-
hold made himself her special attend
ant, but by and 10y IL seemed 20 ne
family, glad as they were to have Or
Shaw waited on. mat ne was rather
OVERRIDING 1t and that she was ou-
c%ouraging him strangely for q woman
who likes to wait Oh herself.
At 3 =. NJ. say. he would boil up a.
her side with "A glass of water. Tie"
yo' is. Mis- Anna he would say viii
a pull OF his forelock.
Mis- Anna would tip him . da"
and take tho water. which probably s'e
didn't want. At 1905 or th"reihoG'
again he would he at her elbow WITH a
shawl, or some cake. or Il Huushad' 'r
fan or what not and ''iIcah yu' j.. Nj
Anna" And shed tip him and tp HIN
again as tho performance Went On
hour after hour. At last Mrs. Ri--'
demonstrated.
The servants say Joe is democrat %
ing the kitchen with his foray. Cor
this and that to bring YOU she pro
tested. why ever do YOU k..n "H
tipping him for things }op dom
want"
The sun., 1916-09-24

r!ous Oriental and peasant embroidery
motifs.
And here We are back 70 those
straight frocks. Every house shows
them-witness the brown velvet. sea!
trimmed. from Doeuillet that is pic
turcd on this page and Premet's high
collared blue serge, plated from throat
The sun., 1916-09-24
D ELEANOR HoYr BRAiNERD.

"HU honest truth about the
Paris models Is that they are
what the domestic designers
expected them to be and quite in line
9TH what the most able Of those de-
mestic designers had ready for the
trade before the openings occurred in
Paris.
This does not mean that Paris has
Dot, ~ always. sent us beautiful
things. Masters Of color and line are
not likely to lose their cunning. even
under wars handicap, and the famous
French houses have turned out some
extraordinarily attractive models.
along with others not DO attractive;
but the clientele that inspires Paris
lrsssmakers to their supreme efforts
b not spending fortunes on clothes.
not needing clothes Of the sort that
can for the expenditure Of fortunes.
and the Paris dressmakers unques-
0onably miss the incentive.
Models this year were created
largely for the American trade. and
the American trade. though It lays
golden eggs Of monstrous size and Is
cherished accordingly. does not. in
spite Of all the Franco-American fell
iowship. from Lafayette down to the
American aviation corps. appeal to
the French artist as Supremacy worth
while in terms Of art. As a frank and
oenfding French artist in dress put
10 - us last winter: You Americans
buy clothes. but you do not know
Clothes"
That this same artist gave out for
publication glowing dithyrambs con-
cesning the beauty and grace Of the
American woman and the unerring
skin with which she wore her clothes
does not Offset the revelation Of that
moment intense. and 1t was not the
iirst time we had heard a like ver-
diet from French lips.
%, when the Rue de la Paix falls
hack upon American trade for its in
sDiration. perhaps 1t does not reach
the dixxiest heights to which II is
capable Of soaring. and n need not
wonder that the imported models are
enthusiasm provoking only in spots.
They are interesting on the whole,
Come OF them are very beautiful. many
Of them distinctly ordinary and lack
ing in both novelty and distinction,
That IL heresy Of the most heretical
seet, Of course, but It Is truth. and
there IL really nc reason why one
sheuh speak with bated breath OF
Sv0sy Paris made frock. even II one
aAmits without hesitation that Paris
- ths cornerstone OF the foundation Of
~ dressmaking art
n 10 more difficult than usual thi.
yeas to sort out the models without
leeatng at the labels or appealing FOL
in1ormation. The established house.
d not cling o. closely to tradition as
they once did. Worth has his moment,
OF giddy frivolity: Paul Posret occa'
sionally essays the demure. Yet the
morked characteristics dominate. anC
there are plenty of frocks to which Il
= easy to afix the name Of the maker
Worth may have achieved adorable
dance frocks for youth. but he has moi
forgotten his dowagers and royaltie.
and gentlewomen Of dignity as we'll a.
charm. His black velvet gowns are a!
lovely. a. emphatically grande dame
- ever, and there are several OF then
The sun., 1916-09-24

this type OF frock heavily and Paris
sanctions the emphasis. though Paris
is hardly so insistent as New York
upon the idea.
Everywhere one sees these little
frocks, straight as a pipestem. often
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19
THE LONE STAR RANGER
 story he 7exaPa People 3y ZANE GREY

you-will you be-" Her voice failed.
 It seemed to Duane that she must have discovered what he had begun to suspect-that her father and Law son were not the honest ranchers they pretended to be. Perhaps she knew more' Her appeal to Duane shook him deeply. He wanted to help her more than he had ever wanted anything. And with the meaning of the tumultuous sweetness she stirred in him there came the realization of a dangerous situation.
 'I must be true to my duty" he said, hoarsely.
 If you knew ne you'd know could never ask you to be false to 1t"
 "Well, then-rl do anything for you"
 ''Oh. thank you, I'm ashamed that believed my cousin Floyd! He lied he lied. I'm all in the dark, strangely distressed. My father wants me to go back home. Floyd is trying to keep me here. They've quarreled. oh. know something dreadful will happen. I know Il need you riff Will you help mel"
 "Yes." replied Duane. and his look brought the blood to her face.
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19

won. The opening of that big basket was an event. Poor, starved little beggarS, The havoc was wrought in that household. The needs now were cheerfuIness. kindness, help, action and these the girls furnished with a spirit that did Duane good.
 "Mrs. Laramie, who dressed this baby?" presently asked Miss Long streth. Duane peeped in to see a dilapidated youngster on her knee. That sight, if any other was needed, completed the full and splendid es- timate of Ray Longstreth and wrought strangely upon his heart.
 "The ranger" replied Mrs. Laramie.
 "The ranger" exclaimed Miss Long streth.
 "Yes. he's taken care of us all since since" Mrs. Laramie choked.
 "Oh, So you've had no help but his," replied Miss Longstreth, hastily. No women. Too bad. I'll send someone, Mrs. Laramie, and I'll come myself"
 sIt II be good of you" went on the older woman. You see. Jim .,ati few friends-that is. right in town. And they've been afraid to help us-' afraid they'd get what poor Jim- That's awful!" burst out Miss Longstreth, passionately. "A brave
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19
"it Was a Dead Mistake"

a rustler, thief, a red-handed ruler of the worst gang of robbers" replied Longstreth, impressively. Floyd bowed his head at that, as | if the significance had just occurred | to him. But he was not long at loss. She's going to find it out sooner
 or later. I tell you she knows now
 there's something wrong out here. | She's got eyes. Mark what 1 say Ray has changed, I know. But she hasn't any idea yet that her
 daddy's q boss rustler. Rays con
 cerned about what she calls my duty
 as mayor. Also l think she's not sat | isfied with my explanations in regard
 to certain property"
 | Lawson halted in his restless walk | and leaned agains. the stone mantel- piece. He had his hands in his pock- | cts. He squared himself as if this was his last stand. He looked desper- ate. but on the moment showed an
 absence of his usual nervous excite
 ment.
 'Longstreth, that may well be true"
 he said. "No do'Ibt all you say is
 true. But it doesn't help me. I want
 the girl. If I don't get her-I reckon
 we'll all go to he'll"
 ! LOngstreth gave slight start,
 barely perceptible, like the switch of | an awakening tiger. He sat there head l down, stroking his mustache. Duane's | conviction was that LOngstreth right | then and there decided that the thing
 to do was to kill Lawson. | Lawson no more caught the Hateful significance of line crossed, limit
 reached, decree decided than if he
 had not been present. He was
 obsessed with himself. How, Duane | wondered, had man of his mind ever | lived so long and gone so far among | the exacting cOpditions of the South west? The answer was, perhaps, ! that Lnngstreth had guided him, up-
 held him. protected him. The com
 ing of Ray LorGstreth had been the
 entering-weGge Of dissension. | You're too inpatient" said Long | streth. Ray might be won. She
 might marry you to save me, but she'd
 hate you. That isn't the way. Wait.
 Play for time. Let's plan to sell out
 here-stock, ranch, prOperty-and
 leave the country. Then you'd have a show with her."
 q told you we've got to stick | growled Lawson. "The gang won't | stand for our goiug. It can't be done
 unless you want to sacrifice every | thing"
 "You mean double-cross the men? Go without their knowing? Leave them here to face whatever comesF | q mean just that" 1 'Tm bad enough, but not that bad | returned Longsteeth, "If I can't get the gang to let me off, I'll stay and | face the music. All the same, Law
 son, did it ever strike you that most
 of the deals tho last few years have
 been yoursw
 "Yes. If I hadn't rung them in there wouldn't have been any. You've had cold feet, and especially since this ranger has been here" | "well, call it cold feet if you like.
 But l call it sense. We reached our limit long ago. Then we had to go ! on. Too late to turn backw
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19

their games and drinks and Quarrels except by some decided move. Ex- citement, greed, appetite were rife m them. Duane marked. however, a striking exception to the usual run of strangers he had been in the habit of seeing. Sneaker had gone or was under cover. Again Duane caught a vague rumOr of the coming of Poggin, yet he never seemed to arrive. More over the goings-on among the habitues of the resorts and cowboys who came in to drink and gamble were unusually mild in comparison with former conduct. This Hull, how ever, did not deceive Duane. It could not last. The wonder was that 1t had lasted so long.
 Duane went often to see Mrs. Lara mic and her children. One afternoon while he was there he saw Miss Long streth and Ruth ride up to the door. They carried a basket. Evidently they had heard of Mrs. Laramie's trouble. Duane felt strangely glad, but he went into an adjoining room TulItE lllih iuttl tutlu
 Mrs. Laramie, I've come to see you" said Miss Longstreth, cheer fully.
 The little room was not very light, there being only one window and the doors, but Duane could see plainly enough. Mrs. Laramie lay, hollow checked and haggard, on a bed. Once she had evidently been a woman of some comeliness. The ravages of trouble and grief were there to read in her worn face; 1t had not, however, any of the hard and bitter lines that had characterized her husbands.
 Duane wondered, considering that Mrs. Laramie was going to regard the daughter of an enemy.
 50 you're Granger Longstreth's girl?" queried the woman, with her bright, black eyes fixed on her visitor.
 "Yes," replied Miss Longstreth. simply. ''This is my cousin. Ruth Herbert. We've come to nurse you, take care of the children. help you in any way you'll let us.'
 There was long silence.
 Well, you look a little like Long, streth." finally said Mrs. Laramie, ''but you're not at all like him. You must take after your mother. Miss Longstreth. I don't know if I can-if I ought to accept anything from you. Your father ruined my husband"
 "Yes, I know." replied the girl sad ly. That's aii the more reason you should let me help you. Pray don't refuse. It will-mcan much to me"
 If this poor. stricken woman had any resentment it speedily melted in the warmth and sweetness of Miss l.ongstreth's manner, and no sooner had she begun to talk to the children than both they and the mother were
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19
SYNOPSIS.

The time of the story: about 1875. The place: The Texas COW country. The chief character: Buckley Duane, a young man who has inherited lust to kHl. which he supprrsses. In self-oefenSe he shoots dead a drunken bully and is forced to Zee to the wild country where he joins Bland's s outlaw band. Euchre. an amiable rascal tells him about Jennie. a young girl who 1asf been RsSpsted and sold to Bland for a bad fate. They determine ;o rescue the girl and restore her to civilization. Eu- chre has just accommodated. and is re- porting the outlook to Buck. Euchre is killed Buck kills Bland and is danger OUsly wounded by Mrs. Bland but es- capes with Jennie. Jennie is abducted Buck never sees her again. but kills her abduCtor. Duane barely escapes death at the hands of lynchers for a crime he new CT committed. He goes to see Captain MacNelly of the Rangers. who hands him a pardon on condition that he join the Rangers and assist in breaking up the outlaws. Duane accepts and goes to the outlaw headquarters on secret mission. lie meets Colonel EonEstTsth. mayor Of Fsirdale. and Miss Ray Longstreth and her cousin. Ruth. Buck arrests a robber in Jongstreth's home and announces that he is a Ranger. The colonel shows mark ed enmity. The new Ranger secretly or ganizeS a vigilance committee.
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19
Bu ZANE GREY

T can go to Ray, tell her that. make her believe I'd tell 1t broadcast-tell this ranger-unless she'd marry me-"
 Lawson spoke breathlessly, with haggard face and shadowed eyes. He had no shame. He was simply in the grip of passion.
 Longstreth gazed with dark, con- trolled fury at this relative. In that look Duane saw a strong, unscrupu- lOus man fallen into evil ways, but still a man. It betrayed Lawson to be the wild and passionate weakling. Like the great majority of evil and unrestrained men on the border, he had reached a point where influence was futile. Reason had degenerated. He saw only himself.
 But, Floyd, Rays the one person on earth who must never know I'm
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19
Sheep.
HAY AND GRAIN MARKET.
F. o. B. Denver. Carload Price.

Hay.
 Buying Prices. Colorado upland, per ton. .sli.OOgl5.OO Nebraska upland, per ton. l2.0Og i5.oO Second bottom Colorado
 and Nebraska, per ton. 1O.JO4 1l.5o Timothy, per ton ....... .l6.5Ou l'.3o Alfalfa, per ton .-....... lO.OOu ll.oV South Park, choice, per
 ton I7.OOg1s.0O San Luis Valley, per ton. li."utL lo.5o Gunnison Valley. per ton lG.OO c i1.OO Straw, per ton .......... 4.2O
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19

Boulder.-Tungsten concentrates, 6o per cent, slG to ST per unit: crude ores, So per cent, SIS; 9 per cent. s9.i0 to sl2; l0 per cent. ss70 to slO per unit
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19
MISCELLANEOUS MARKETS.
Prices Quoted for Metals.

Bar silver-115sc
 Spelter, per Ice lbs. &: Louis s!G. Lead, per 100 lbs, New York s7.OD. Copper, casting-S27121a.
Tombstone epitaph., 1916-11-19
Gram,

Wheat. ch. mill. loo lbs, buying s2.32 Rye, Colo. bulk. 100 lbs. buying. l.6O Idaho oats. bulk. buying. ........ l.5O Colorado oats. bulk. buying. 1.4o Corn chop, sack, selling .......- 1.SO Corn in sack. selling ..-....... 1.II Bran, Colorado, per 100 lbs, sell
 ing .... ..... 25