davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

are very attractive this year and
gingham with bands Of plain material
makes a useful morning dress. Cotton
eponge shows some most attractive
plaids and it always makes a smart
and good effect trimmed with linen.
One diagram shows the pattern laid
out on material thirty-six inches wide
and that is the favorite width for
linen. The other diagram is numbered
to show you how the pieces are to be
put together. With the help Of the
two there should be no difficulty what
ever in the making Of the frock.
First smooth the pattern out nicely
fold the cloth lengthwise and lay the
pattern out as indicated. The seams
are all allowed, therefore. you have
only TO cut on the outside edges Of the
pattern. After pinning each part
carefully into place, cut neatly and
accurately along the edges Of the pat
tern, then mark an the perlorations
and notches as you always have done,
but also take care TO mark the line
Of tiny perforations near each edge
with different color chalk or thread
because these indicate the line on
which you will baste and sew and
you will want to recognize them at
glance. Carry the markings through
TO the underside with tailors tacks
that have been described in previous
lessons, then we will be ready to begin
the work of making.
As the first step, cut the openings
for the belt because it is much easier
to do this while the pieces are separate
and before the seams are sewed. They
arc to be cut between the single per-
forations You will find them in the
front and in the back. To finish the
edges you can either bind them or
scallop them or underface them.
As the next step, get the pockets
ready for use. In the picture the upper
edges arc scalloped but on the envelope
there are directions for overfacing.
The overfacing would be used if the
scallops are omitted. After finishing
the upper edge in whichever way you
prefer. turn the seams on the ends on
the lower edges under, then arrange
over the fronts of the dress with the
upper edges at the lines Of perfora-
tions, haste into place and stitch
carefully along each end and along
the lower edges. Next close the shoul-
der and the under-arm seams. To dc
this, take up a tiny seam on the right
side. then turn, baste carefully and
Evening journal., 1916-02-18
from the FASHION CENTRES
By MAY MANTON

now plating Of plain color The fancy
little coat that accompanies the cos.
tune is Of navy blue taiieta with the
collar and cuffs Of the striped. which
bv the way. is blue and white. Awning
stripes are shown in material OF many
weights. Apparently we arc TO have
a season of stripes and of stripes that
are conspicuous to a very great extent
II these examples arc somewhat ex
tremc they are indicative. We may
not see rcplicas but We viii see 'niiu
cnccs Of the sort at work.
Capcs may he iaol;cd for in every
possible variation. We see a great
many coats in cape effect, with sepa.
rate capcs and With cape collars and
VIC sec cape collars and little fancy
canes adjusted over blouscs Paris
has chosen garniturcs Of this sort Tor
simple plain costumes 10 relieve their
severity and often 10 give a touch OF
daintiness and perhaps Of color. AT
ready many Of them have appeared on
this side Of the sea and they arc so
generally becoming, so attractive and
so thoroughly satisfactory that they
are quite sure TO meet with a ready
approval and response. A charming
one is made Of Acsh colored mousellnc
with narrow frills Of tullc and trim
ming Of black velvet buttons IL rip
nlcs prcttilv over the shoulders and ia
finished with one Of the high chin
chin" collars that apparently VIII
extend their favor into the spring
For immediate wear sports cosiumct
are in demand and wool Jersey cloth is
the lavorite material An exceedingly
handsome golhng costume, ordered tor
Palm Beach. is OF that material m
hunters green and the use OF green tor
sports Of al kind makes something OF
notable feature. The Jersey cloth ls
light Of weight, is pleasant TO wear
il takes attractive and graceful lines
and is altogether 20 be commended.
Abroad il IS being used for coats as
well as for suits and some OF the hand
soonest coats for motoring and travel
ing and the like are made Of that ma
tcrial. II is 10 be noted IN white as
we'll as in color and white skatini
suits are much in demand, bus ioi
golhng and for sports OF the kind a
the Southern resorts. green - an IN
questioned favorite.
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

fell the lining over the seams. Place
the sleeves in the arm-holes with the
seams at the notches and the single
perforations at the shoulder seams but
for this take up only single seam on
the wrong side taking care to sew
neatly along the perforations. Bind
the seams with a narrow strip OF bias
lawn or Of scam binding that can be
purchased ready for use. Turn up
under the dress and tack into place
at the shoulder seams. Finish the free
edges of the collar with the scallops
il YOU are using them or with your
trimming material and arrange over the
dress with the center backs and notches
meeting. Underface both the collar
and the dress with a narrow strip OF
bias material, either scallop the front
edges or trim them. Line the belt
with the material and finish the edges
either with the scallops or with trim
ming, and slip il through the openings
YOU have made for the purpose. Work
buttonholes in the right front 81 the
dress and work one button-hole in
the right end Of the belt. Lap the
right side Of the dress and of the belt
over the left, the larger perforations
exactly meeting.
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

NOTWITHSTANDING the fact
IN that February is the month set
for the most important French
openings. new models are arriving by
every steamer and an sorts OF prcdic-
tions as to what will bc fashionable Tor
the spring are to be heard where dress
is a subject OF discussion. Apparently
there is nothing radically new. De
signers have rather reverted TO earlier
periods making new out OF old by
additions and by applications of later
Developments. 1890 and 1875 iniiu-
ences are traccablc also W. find some
Of the influences Of the earlier French
periods Louis NN and NNl. One
might almost say that each designer
has a period Of her own, in any case the
designers are free TO adapt and 60
adjust and TO make something new
out of what has been with such taste
and discretion as they have at COM
mand. The very very wide skirts and
the great abundance OF material used
In these advance models come with
something OF a surprise. Europe IS
economizing. Women Of social stand
ing are not rushing into eXtravagances
in dress. Whether or not these cos
tunes which require yards upon yards
Of costly material will gain a hold
there is a problem; that we will accept
them il likely 20 be true They are
pretty and they arc attractive and
questions of economy are not consid-
cred as closely on this side of the sea.
There are really wonderful materials
and wonderful combinations, and
there is such clever adaptations that
practically the designs are new, let
them be inspired by what period OF
the worlds history they may. In the
earlier time they had no such variety
Of fabrics as we have today. Methods
Of stiffening were crude compared to
our own. We have improved, VIC have
modified and We are being shown some
thing that is really our own and that
is attractive in the extreme.
A quaint and interesting gown that
comes from the house Of Jenny illus
tratcs several of these points besides
being attractive in itself II is made
Of one OF the new faillc silks which is
beautifully soft combined with chiffon
and is a delicious blue in color The
skirt is very wide and full straight and
gathered of the chiffon trimmed witt
graduated bands Of the silk. but 1t il
arranged over a fur pctticoat Of orchiC
pink taffeta and this taficta is stiff
enough to give quite the effect OF crinu
line without any of its rigidity. Tn
bodice is buttoned down the front an
is entirely Of blue taheta. 1t is draw
into a girdle and below the girdle an
across the front there is plated ruct
Of orchid pink ribbon with a pic,
edge. The back is left plain. II
long sleeves suggest the leg Of muttc
idea but are not exactly in this styl
Below the elbows they are OF chifio
banded with faille, above they are
the taffeta. The bodice is plain
suggests the 1890 period but it do,
not III with the snugness that belonge
10 that time. Ii is loose enough 20 I
becoming and it leaves a waist {
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

SOFA (IYifh BasfiHg Line and added
Seam AHOlUance) Child's Dress, 4 TO
years.
20 launder but the pockets are a little
unusual in shape, the belt is. passed
through openings made for the pur-
pose and these two features separate
Z from the generality and give 1t a
ouch Of distinction. In the picture, 1t
IS made of white linen and the edges
are scalloped. That finish is a very
pretty as we'll as very fashionable
pne and the scallops do not mean
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

By MAY MANTON

Of the lining. then join the outside 10
the lining along the lower edges. Seal
lop the upper edges Of the outside only.
Now Join the lining to the sleeves with
the seams meeting the seams in the
sleeves and bring the seams that join
them on the right side. Turn the
outside or scalloped portion up over
the lining and over the seams, then
stitch into place at the lower edges Of
the scallops. If you are making plain
cuffs without the scallops, you will
seam the outside to the sleeves and
Evening journal., 1916-02-18
pEscRIPrloN on PATTERNs.

5000 Fancy Blouse, "a TO AZ bust.
sso3 Plated Skirt with Yoke, "a TO 81
waist.
RsAo with Basting Line and Added
Scam AIowance) Yoke Blouse, 81 to
A bust.
$3.50 with Basting Line and added
Scam Allowance) Draped skirt, "a TO
81 waist.
5000 Blouse with Vest Effect. "a TO ~
bust.
sso4 with Basting Line and Added
scam Allowance) Yoke Skirt with
Gathered Sides, "a to 80 waist:
$500 with Basting Line and Added
Scam Allowance) Loose Coat, 81 TO
a. bust.
500 with Basting Line and Added
Seam Allowance) Plated skirt with
Yoke, % 10 32 waist.
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

sew the second time exactly on the
line Of tiny perforations that indicates
the seams.
As the next step, close the seams OF
the sleeves in exactly the same way.
To make the cuffs with the scalloped
finish, cut the Innings just like the out
side. Join the ends OF the outside and
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

The buttons and button-holes make
a very pretty and very fashionable
closing and also they are practical, for
when the dress requires to be washed
and ironed, it can be opened out fiat
in a way that renders it exceedingly
easy TO handle.
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

IT Is none too carly to be thinking
about the summer frocks. For
the younger children nothing is
better than the one-piece style and
this little model make an excellent
example Of that style. It is a plain
title garment, easy to make and easy
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

great amount Of labor, but as a matter
Of course, IL a simpler dress is wanted.
i can be finished with straight
stitched edges or with bands of ma
terial or with any trimming that may
be liked. There are a great many
pretty materials and suitable ma
terials for this frock. The ginghams
Evening journal., 1916-02-18
FI ECTION FOR($A GIRLS AND CHILDREN

unprecedented variety there great deal Of talk about sosge
the war conditions but il is difficult to discover any real lack
Undoubtedly great many and brown shades Will be worn
there may few coors difficult to obtain but the general
is beautiful varied and practical and what more could we
desire. 49, -.
wonderful color effects that shown in cotton have pen
commented upon and again but this season really outooe
M predecessors in that There wonderful coors 70
be shown In cotton gabadne there in silk and since notable
feature Of prevailing fashions is to be found IN really ongn
color used trimming with queer tones that feature an I'M
portant .- H., -.
excellent suggestions both for indoor and Tor street costumes
school girls always like the MILDLY costume The one at the
extreme left S7Ao novel and attractive and smart IN te
extreme il be used for great many different materials
In the picture made OF plaid cotton eponge cofned win
white linen makes very smart dress Tor the warm weather
For immediate would be pretty made plaid serge wn %
The beted blouse shown in So7 while not midoy m
any sense gives much simplicity OF line and Is most az
tcve The pockets make novel feature and pockets at hans
over the belts are delight the girls heart while hey Se
exceedingly The model will be found gooq one pqtn
the materials the present well the future IL would MAKE
up most atractvey cotton gabardne in pque or N sa
and is equally good for and fabrics OF such sort
Norfolk always liked and the norfolk coats are
becoming The here has pretty shaped yoke ana o
Evening journal., 1916-02-18
DESCRIPTION on PATTERNs

s74o Girls MILDLY Costume 10 be
Shirred or Smoked, 10 to "a years.
SOFIA Girls Coat, s TO Il years.
szss Girls Norfolk Suit. s 10 IA years
S6I7 Girls Dress, 8 to "A years.
$3.50 Girls Coat, to g years
SOFA Child Coat, TO years.
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

patch pockets. In the picture II
made Of navy blue gabardine with
trimming OF soldiers blue broadcloth.
The color combination is a smart one,
the combination Of materials also IS
good and altogether the suit is most
attractive.
OF course coats arc needed for the
spring season for we have a great
many cool days and rainy days. There
are three excellent models in the
group, one designed for the older girls
and two for the little tots. The older
girls coat is shown in chcviot and
cheviot is a sturdy sensible good ma
terial for coats Of the sort, but II could
Of course be copied in serge or IN any
material Of a similar sort. The pockets
are novel and the coat is very loose
and an easy one to slip on. Incl
dentally, II is an easy one to make too
and consequently it has great man,
features to commend il.
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

and culfs or embrOdcred with color. ScaIoped
edges are to be seen on many Of the new French
models and bit Of color is very pretty and at
.ractive without meaning great amount OF labor.
All the dropped shoulder effects are fashionable
The costume that shows that feature also gives
new and good line for vest and includes a skirt
that is full at the sides but plain at the front and
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

tattCtd WITH idIc
hounces show
that feature at
tractively used.
Ii is a very
smart gown, a
very handsome
gown and at the
same time it is
a simple gown
TO make. The
bodice has the
advantage OF
being available
for two different
uses. II it is
made with a
yoke and with
long sleeves it
becomes adapt
ed to simple
everyday occa-
sions. T n c
draped skirt is
made over "A
foundation on
which I h c
nounccs are ar
ranged.
The separate
blouse is always
a need. For be-
tween seasons
there are a
variety of ma
terials being
used that are
new to the pur
pose. therefore
Of especial in
terest. Fin
light weigh
wool voile ant
6ne challis ar
advocated hs
Paris and are
admirable flr
certain occa
sions. silk voile
will be added
20 the list also
and silk voile is
exceed dinghy
beautiful. The
crepe de chine,
tafeta and tub
silks hold their
own as a matter
of course and
cotton voiles
and handker-
chief la W n s
make an i'm
portant feature
Of the washable
fabrics. Col
0red waists arc
being greatly
exploited, also
white waists
trimmed with
-olored collar
Evening journal., 1916-02-18
PRETTY SUGGESTIONS FOR The

livery change Of brings with needs Of varied sort he
change from spring. while yet here, already
the
illustration will prove helpful and suggestive.
daped the
g. exediney The gown that made Of quainy howed
Evening journal., 1916-02-18

rT-HE late winter is apt be season at which mothe
renenishine the school wardrobe and making ready +
4 warmer days that are to come This season o
really exceptional opportunity for the fashions are most at
nd AZ the same time absolutely simple for simple occasions
~ enr IN new fabrics fascinating in the extreme and
New Britain herald., 1916-09-23
STORY Her Side---and His How Cora Temple Solved
 By
\ The M eeting

hourt a troubled Cora with in him should be dream that Wanda should be forfard movement Of David alAost Like oo seemed the quality Das eloqunce oo~ or sncery fever which their feeling though the great auditorium were oes exciting spread through the reached climax of his speech . r half audience was
  lips was thunderous cheers
  frantic David sat down.
 the David ope for his his whispered word or stood Cora followed little anteroom off stage
 What doctor?" Hartley smiled Hes a qud his throat almost stupd Something made her turn to the sparkling appariton of Wanda could herself Coras knees cuy bundered into it. Then of fdarkne her she helpful coldne face and nicely Now, Wanda take them in
  Wanda a weakly 
 
 
 am to exclaimed with kiss You
  while you?
 me must" She Hartley
  that Where's David?" Cora cried suddenly, little all %
New Britain herald., 1916-09-23
Ve,us for 7xeater Goers 1and Women Readers
"HOUSE OF GLASS;
 POWERFUL DRAMA

The attraction at the Lyceum on next Tuesday evening will be Conan x Harris production of "The House of Glass; easily the most powerful drama seen in New York for many seasons Originally presented at the Candler theater as far back as last september, this play enjoyed a record or eight months of capacity audiences, The House of Glass;" has a particu- lar appeal just now as it's theme coin cides @largely with the reform views of the large proportion of citizens with respectato the errors committed by the courts in sending innocent people to prison. It is @ powerful sermon and at the same time a most fascin- at1ng and gripping drama of the modern school. It brings forward the remarkable case of a young woman convicted on cfrcumstantial evidence, who is pursued and persecuted by the police force after she had been the wire of man of position and wealth Tor ten years. Margaret Case had been paroled, but was nevertheless the vic tim of police insults, notwithstanding her years of good behavior and her record of charitable deeds in happy home. The play which was written by Max Marcin, outlines the career of an innocent girl, who fell in love with housebreaker and is convicted of crime through association, possessing no knowledge whatever thereof. Margaret serves a brief sen tence and Is released on parole she leaves New York under an assumed name and settles in Kansas City. as a stenographer, eventually becoming the wife of her employer Through her devotion, and the husbands great ability, he becomes a power in the railroad world and ultimately, Is called to New York to assume con- trol of a great railroad system. As Mrs. Lake, Margaret has achieved so- cial distinction, and when a detective, who had been instrumental in her Imprisonment recognizes her he be- gins a vigorous persecution of the helpless young wife. There are in numerable stirring incidents leading up to what has been called the most thrilling dramatic climax seen in any play of recent years.
 Prominent in the cast to be seen in this city will be Miss Adeline O'Connor, as Margaret Case, Robert Middlemas, as Harvey Lake, Clyde F'o- gel, Hal Mordaunt, Foster Williams, Charles Reigl, Amelia Meyers, Ber- tram Miller, Martin Malloy William T. Hayes and Sonia Jasper Seats now selling at Crowell's.
New Britain herald., 1916-09-23

ing obscene literature which is only a pamphlet advocating the regulation of the families especially of the poor. But it, the play, does advocate doing away with the false modesty which prevents mother imparting know ledge as to sex hygiene to her daugh- ter, and shows in a striking manner how the failure on the part of one mother to do her duty along that line results in the shame and death of her darling child.
 The story of the district attorney doomed to a childless old age be- cause his wife, a gay butterfly of society, prefers it's attractions and pleasures to the joys of motherhood, is told with delicacy and acted with a fineness of touch that permits of no offense. MT. Tyrone Power has done nothing in his notable career as an actor that exceeds his artistry in the trying role of the district at torney.
 There will be four performances daily at 2 and 3:30 afternoons and and 9:30 evenings. Seat sale tonight at CrOWell's.
New Britain herald., 1916-09-23
LAST CHANGE TO SEE
 HILTON AND DOLLS

Tonight's performance at the Grand
 theater of the Million Dollar Dclls,"
 brings to a close one of the brceziest
 hurlcsque shows that has appeared at the popular playhouse this season. Each appearance of the troupe met with favor by audiences of the S. It. O. variety and the farewell this evening will, no doubt, prove to be the banner night of the week. As an entertainer, . Lew Hilton has filled the role assigned him in a capable manner and assisted by such worthy co-workerS as "Sliru'V V Kellan, Bob Ferns, Alice Lazar and Grace Seymour has put plenty of life into the attraction. A re-appearance of the company at the Grand theater at a later date will no doubt be ap- preciated by the theatergoers of the Capitol City together with the many suburban patrons of the house. The brand of comedy dispensed by the en7S tertainers has been free from anything objectionable, and the catchy songs rendered through the course of the two scenes, are still being sung, hummed and whistled on the streets.
 For the next week Manager Scollan has secured one of the formest bur- lesque troupes on the road, in Bert Cooper's Globe Trotters." Direct from New York where they have made g sensational run, the "Trotters" headed by some of the best that could be secured will, no doubt, Ego big at the theater next week. The program the same, matinees commence ing at 2:30 and evening performances at S:15. The box office is open at o'clock in the forenoon every day for the convenience of the patrons.
New Britain herald., 1916-09-23
WHERE ARE MY
 CHILDREN ?" COMING

That daring photoplay, "Where Are My Children?' which is now creating such a tremendous sensation in Bos- ton will be seen at the Lyceum be- ginning Wednesday afternoon. The agitation against the showing of the film which has increased daily since the opening performance in Boston has not yet resulted in denial of the privilege of showing it to the anxious public, and it is to be hoped that the crusade will not succeed, as the lesson taught by Where Are My Children ?" is a much needed one judging by the occurrence of the past weeks, when beautiful young wom- an of good family was the victim of malpractice.
 "Where Are My Chi1dren?" is not an advocacy of birth control" al though there is in the picture an ap- parent sympathy for the poor en- thusiast who is convicted of circulat-
New Britain herald., 1916-09-23

left breast. She aimed for her heart, of course, and she almost turned the trick. l imagine she has a pretty, good chance of pulling through if in-' lection doesn't develop. The stiletto hadn't been used for some time, and there were several small rust spots on it. But here comes your breakfast"
 Her voice had been absolutely emotionless as she told me the story. As she busied herself with setting out attractively on small table the de- licious breakfast Katie had brought. I had a queer idea that if it were not for the publicity that would inevitably follow, Lillian would not very much regret the ultimate success of Grace Draper's attempt at self destruction.