davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1916-08-06

are covered with cross-stitching. worE.
ed in opposing colprs.
Long buttonholes on coats OF thin
cloth are embroidered in gayly~colorvd
worsted threads. and silk belts made to
go with coat suits have the surface
covered with an exaggerated cross
stitch in turquoise blue. bright green
and scarlet.
One of the fantasies in the use OF
cross-stitch is to put it around the
crown of a black velvet satin hat It
gives the one touch of color needed.
and after this is done the milliners omit
any other trimming.
White organdy collars, which reach
| to the line of the hair at the neck and
almost to the line of the waist. arc now
ornamented with cross-stitch done on
the hem in any one Of the pastel
shades
Net blouses in white or cream, worn
with linen coat suits, have narrow lines
of stitching from shoulder to
wcist.
Such are the uses Of Victorianism,-as
transmitted through the channels OF
French art.
Evening star., 1916-08-06

than to send bales Of muff1ers and knee
caps of assorted sizes to the men in
the trenches and the women in the
desolate homes. In the meantime. we
had learned how to handle the knit
ting needles We found them as fasci-
mating as our grapdmothers use to
think them.
And now we knit our own sweaters.
Probably the fact that we know how to
do this has little or nothing to do with
the fashion for them But the coinci-
dence is fortunate.
Many new ideas In sweaters are
manifesting themselves every week. 1t
is quite possible to trim homeknit
sweaters with ostrich or one of the other
feather trimmings which can be bought
by the yard. but there are many knitted
finishes for these sweaters that are de-
cidedly effective.
A new idea Is to make collars and
cuffs on bright-colored wool sweaters
Of white angora wool. The effect is
soft and attractive. Another new idea
is to make all white collars and cuffs
separate from the sweaters-not to
knit them on--and to sew them on.
They can then be Quiokly ripped of and
Cleaned This arrangement makes 1t
necessary to clean the whole
sweater syeFy time the white collar and
cufss look sotled
Evening star., 1916-08-06
Ideas for AutWnnm Sweaters

the least dampness makes 1t look be-
.draggled. Any of these trimmings adds
much to the charm of sweater. and
In view of the prediction Of a wide use
Of fur trimmings next winter we are
justified in looking forward to many
fur-trimmed sweaters on the skating
rinks.
Nothing could be more suitable In
both appearance and feeling than a
heavy wool sweater Of bright color
trimmed with some softening fur or
feather edging 1t Is TO be hoped that
either the ingenuity Of our own manu-
facturers or the submarine merchant
men will supply us with all the brill
liant colors we need for dyes, Wool or
silk sweaters in various shades Of rose,
green. bright blue and warm brown
are specially appropriate for winter
sports.
Our enthusiasm Tor the unfortunates
of Europe when the war broke out led
many of US to master The art OF knit
ting. Our enthusfasm for ths said un-
fortun4tAS did not wear out but We
learned Of more helpful things 70 Do
Evening star., 1916-08-06

that it was fashionable to carry a
monkey. Such a thing was unheard of!
1t could only be done in an era like
this. when unusual fashions in clothes
and sensationalism in behavior ran riot
in the most polite segments of society,
All that is nonsense. Mrs. Castle, as
an audacious young dancer. quite ready
through her personality to do anything
In the way of fashion, was only copying
the most pious queen that England
every had-Catherine of Aragon.
This devout Catholic and severely
demure woman who lived an exemplary
life always carried monkey, as one
can see by the engraving of her which
hangs in the British Museum. The
daughter of Isabella of CASTLE could
never have been classed as frivolous,
audacious member of the footlights
who called every woman after her, as
Evening star., 1916-08-06
PRESERVING SUGGESTIONS.

packing the fruit in sterilized cans,
then cooking in a larger vessel of
water Hike large kettle or wash
boiler; packing the fruit in jars and
in kettles on top of the stove, then
packing in sterilized jars: cooking in
the sun; and, in the case of cranber-
ries, pieplant and green gooseberrleS,
ing every crevice with cold water until it
runs over and closing air-tight. This
process is only possible with the three
fruits mentioned. as their own acids
are germ destroyers.
Fruits packed in the jars and then
cooked keep their shape better. and
are therefore more attractive to the
eye than those cooked, then packed IN
the jar. The latter process, however.
is quicker for ordinary home use,
where one is putting up just a little
fruit at time. In canning, the pro-
portion of sugar varies according to
the natural sweetness of the fruit and
the use for which it is intended Fruit
that is to DE used on the table for a
sauce" is best put uy with sugar,
while that intended for cooking pur-
poses may be put up without any. For
preserves. some fruits call for pound
others but half or three quarters of
a pound Of sugar to each pound of
fruit. E@. r So"
Sun Preserves.
Fruits that lend themselves especial
ly well to this method Of preservation
are strawberries, cherries. white cur
rants and red respberries. one pound
of fresh fruit to one pound of sugar.
Put a layer of fruit in the bottom of
La preserving kettle and add one or two
tablespoonfuls of water Alternate the
layers of sugar and fruit. Heat care
fully until the sugar is melted, avoid
ing il possible the breaking up or
Crushing of the fruit. Boil five to
seven minutes, then pour the mixture
in thin layers onto large platters and
set in the sun for a day. The mixture
should thicken or jelly on the platter.
Evening star., 1916-08-06

q OOK over your supply of cans and
II jelly glasses. See that the tops
~ fit and that you have a good sup
ply of fresh rubbers on hand.
The Preserve Closet.
The preserve closet should be cool
and dark. If it has glass door hang
a black curtain in front of 1T. If the
sides are plastered give it fresh coat
of whitewash before stocking up with
new fruit, and keep charcoal in it. Pre-
serves are not half SO apt to spoil In
a thoroughly clean atmosphere. AS
each can goes in see that it is per-
fectly alright and plainly labeled 1t
is a good plan to wrap straWperrles.
coyers to exclude the light. In this
case mark outside the wrapper. Make
orderly rows of the fruit, with a lntie
space or a pasteboard card separating
the different kinds. In. this way one
can quickly find what they seek WITH
Iout an exasperating search.
Do not forget the thirsty days that
are coming, and put up plenty of fruit
juices to be used in refreshing drinks
throughout the year These can hardly
be classed as luxuries. but as additions
to the dietary that win spell both health
and economy, for the family
All fruits from the market should De
very carefully washed. also those from
the home garden unless certain that no
,nsecticide has been employed and no
dirty or objectionable irrigation water
applied. Currants must be picked while
ldry. AL fruit should, be ripe, sound
and fresh. Use the best sugar. and
nreferably granulated. free from any
blush tinge, and the purest spices.
Remember. the success Of canning
depends on perfect sterilization. To at.
| tain this.put jars, covers, spoons and
other utensils to be used in the work
| in a kettle OF cold water, set on the
stove and allow. the water to come to
| the boiling point Keep it there at
| least fifteen minutes There are sew
| eraI methods Of canning These arfs
Evening star., 1916-08-06

After the mixture has cooled and
thickened. transfer 1t from the platter
to sterilized jars and seal or cover with
paraffin
Fruits that lend themselves especially
well to this method of preserving are
peaches. apricots, raspberries and
plums. Carefully wipe or pick over
fruit to be preserved. Cut peaches,
plums or apricots in half and remove
the pit. Spread fruit on racks or
boards and set in the sun to dry for
one or two days The fruit should not
be left out overnight to gather mois-
ture. One pound of brown sugar
twhite sugar may be used If preferred.
one pound of fruit. Pack alternate
layers of fruit and sugar in jars, being
careful to have the top layer of sugar.
The sugar will dissolve gradually and
form a thick. rich sirup around the
fruit. The mixture should be kept COW
cred. but need not be. sealed.
Preserved Blackberries.
Blackberries are seldom preserved.
They are either canned, spiced or made
into jam. If you prefer them richer.
however. select large, perfect fruit, not
too ripe, weigh and put into glass jars.
filing nearly full. Put into saucepan
sugar and water, as much sugar as you
two pounds of fruit. Let this sirup
come slowly to a boil. skim, cook ten
minutes, then pour into the jars over
the berries, filling to the brim.
Riley NJ Fletcher. an expert on the
uses of fruit, especially the southern
fruit. gives US the following currant,
black berry and raspberry recipes:
Blackberry Cordial
Crush and strain berries, allowing for
each quart one-half pound loaf sugar,
"a teaspoon each of cloves and CHINA
mon (powdered) and a grated nutmeg.
Boil all together fifteen minutes; cool.
and for each quart of sirup add one
half pint brandy. Bottle. Dose: From
one teaspoon to wine glassful.
Blackberry Brandy.
Mix equal parts Of fruit juice and
Evening star., 1916-08-06

brandy, for each gallon allowing one
pound loaf sugar.
Blackberry Jam, No. 1.
Take equal weight of blackberries and
sugar (and fruit), no water. cooking
slowly together till sugar is dissolved,
when boil fast for thirty minutes.
Blackberry Jam, No. Q.
If blackberries alone are used take
but three-fourths pounds of sugar to
each pound of fruit and proceed as
above.
Red Currant Jam.
Wash, stem and weigh currants, al
lowing equal weight of sugar, adding
it when fruit has been boiling three
minutes. When dissolved and at boiling
point, remove and place in jars.
Currant Raisin Jam.
Wash, drain, seed and chop two
pounds of Muscatel raisins and place in
preserving kettle. Meanwhile have
ready, washed and stemmed, sufficient
white currants to make three quarts of
juice when mashed and strained. Add
to, this three pounds of sugar and stir
the sweetened juice into the raisins.
Mix well and let slowly come to a boil.
skimming and stirring until it is thick
and smooth. Let cool, place in jars and
seal
spiced Currants.
Three pounds sugar, five pounds cur
rants, one pint vinegar, tablespoon of
cloves, cinnamon, ginger and allspice,
with one teaspoon salt. Simmer care
fully three hours. then bottle.
Currant Catsup.
To four pounds washed, stemmed cur
rants add two pounds brown sugar and
one pint of vinegar. Simmer until suf
ficiently thick. then add spice Zone
teaspoon each cloves. pepper and Gin
Evening star., 1916-08-06

~ PORTS clothes have given the
~ sweater an added lease Of life. The
colored silk sweater coat of the
sumner Will be worn next winter. and
for skating. which Will doubtless have
much of It's last years vogue. there is
every probability that heavy wool
~ eaters will take it's place.
harabou is much used in Paris for
trimming silk sweaters. In this coun-
try swansdown and other soft feather
trimmings Will be substituted for the
prohibited marabou. We are all of US
enough in sympathy with the laws that
protect the wild birds to be quite will
ing to forego any of the feather trim
mings that have come under the ban OF
the law. What is still called marabou
is sold by the yard In the shops. and
answers every purpose of trimming ad-
snirably.
Ostrich feather trimming is also used
TO edge sweater hens. collars and GUNS
II Is not SO suitable for sports wear az
the so-called marabou trimming. for
Evening star., 1916-08-06

Pied Piper chanting the melody of a
new fashion. But there is the monkey
as an evidence that the fashion which
Mrs. Castle revived was neither auda-
cious nor modern.
After all, the carrying of animals by
women of fashion has sifted through
all the ages, but, bound by a narrow
vision, we think it belongs to the fertile
brains of the hour.
A glance over the portraits of the lat
ter part of the eighteenth century and
the first part of the nineteenth will
show that the Englishwo of fashion.
the most conservative members of So
ciety, carried squirrels on chains set
with precious gems and attached to an
exquiste1y carved ring worn on the lit
tie finger.
1t was from them, probably, that the
smart young girls at Palm Beach last
Evening star., 1916-08-06

Currant Ice and Sherbet.
To each quart of juice allow a pound
of sugar. Let gently heat until sugar
is melted. then cool and freeze. Serve
with stemmed currants sprinkled over
the ice in sherbert glasses. Sweet rasp-
berry sirup will lessen the tartness and
give variation of flavor. For sherbet
add the usual whipped whites OF eSgA
Currant Cup.
Cook into sirup a pint each OF sugar
and water. When cool pour 1t over
stemmed currants and set on ice four
hours. Serve in sherbet glasses.
Red Currant Wine.
To a quart each of currant Juice and
sugar allow two quarts of water. Place
in a cask unstopped. for three weeks,
when place bung in loosely for week
longer-until all danger of fermenta-
tion is past. Then seal tight and let
stand a year before using.
Raspberry jam.
To every pound of raspberries allow a
pound of sugar. and to whatever pro-
portion of raspberries used allow one
fourth weight of currarts. Wash and
strain currants and cook juice with
the sugar about twenty minutes, then
add the raspberries, whole, simmering
together twenty-five minutes. Bottle
and seal at once. '9s0
Raspberry Ice.
Mix one quart red raspberries with
one pound of sugar, the Juice Of an
orange and lemon, let stand an hour,
strain. add a quart of water ana
freeze.
Raspberry Royal
Use four quarts of best berries, Pour
over them one quart vinegar and add
one pound sugar, mashing all to q
paste. Let stand in sun four hours,
when strain on Juice and add one pint
brandy. Bottle, seal and place IN cell
Evening star., 1916-08-06

The fashions that concern us most at
the present moment are the crewel
rose and the sampler stitching.
No matter how far a woman is from
Paris, she can use both of these methods
of trimming with lavish hand.
On whatever material she wishes to
put these colored worsted threads she
can do so. Even organdy serves as
suitable background. 1t can be ar
ranged in bands on coarse net and used
in very much the same way as ribbon,
as ribbon has been employed for sew
eral months.
Narrow yokes on one-piece frocks and
Russian blouse suits of thin material
Evening star., 1916-08-06

The colors of those days were well
enough. for even the artists tell US that
we have rarely had such splendid tones
as were then produced in crystal-in
the famous Bristol glass, for instance.
and in crewels old silks and shawls.
But the guilt of the Victorian era rests
ed in the fact that It's people did not
know how to combine these colors. In
the best society they sank to the level
of the worst taste.
The manufacturers dipped the ma
terials in magentas, green's blues and
Evening star., 1916-08-06

makers behind them, mingled them all
up in such way that the merest tyro
of art outside of Great Britain would
have shuddered with horror.
Today, and probably this autumn. we
will have the roses Of Victoria com :
bined with the artistry of Paris; and
again we say that there was really
nothing bad with Victorianism.
1t is not alone in the wearing of par
rots. the adornment of ourselves with
wooden roses and the carrying Of bird
cages on our little fingers that We have
hardened back to other times (a1though
the world labels the innovations as
"audacious originalities of this epoch"1.
Take. for instance, the far r-famed ex-
ploit of Mrs. Vernon Castle and the
monkey that she carried cuddled up in
her arm in all public places where she
Gid not dance.
Mrs. Castle has ceased to be a leader
of fashion. but she had glorious day,
and now that she intends to start
theater of her own next winter in New
York she will undoubtedly regain her
old sway, if she desires it 1t is the
dancers who give us the fashions. these
days, as it is the actresses who do it
in Paris.
Mrs. Castles monkey was a small af-
fair, but it contained in the small space
of it's little body as much ugliness as
any one could gaze upon and keep sane.
Mrs. Thomas, who was Mrs. Frank
Gould, outdid Mrs Castle by carrying
three monkeys instead of one. wrapped
in the folds of her mourning veil, which
might have been white or Black.
And so, the world threw up its hands
and there ripp1ed through the press all
over this continent the amazing news
Evening star., 1916-08-06

When the girl with the bird appeared
on Bellevue avenue the experts who re-
membered that this was famous trick
of the women of the early Victorian
days had a sharp realization that there
must have been a good deal that was
lovely in that period if this girl with
her bird was a symbol Of 1t.
The impression was sharpened by the
appearance of fashionable doll.
charmingly dressed in the tartan taft
feta plaids, with tilted hat on her
elaborate chiffon and a tiny gilt cage
with painted bird swinging from her
little finger.
This doh had been made as gift and
copied from an album which held the
Evening star., 1916-08-06

purple that would have made Paul
Poiret and Paul Tribe cry out with de-
light: but the mass Of women for whom
these fabrics were dyed, and the dress
Evening star., 1916-08-06

around a Florida raccoon by a chain.
There's nothing new in any of these
startling fashions. They've all been
done, and by far more sedate women
than we.
Evening star., 1916-08-06

a YOUNG girl, dressed in q,
IN fr.lled muslin with a blue
IN SASH walking along Bellevue
S q avenue at Newport one day
last summer, created "A sensation by
carrying = small bird CT brilliant
plunaags in a fragile gilt cage swung
by ring from her little finger
How the people gossiped! 1t was q
delicious tidhjt to feed to them in an
otherwise dull season. Last summer,
there was lack of balls. of great din
ners and of vaudeville entertainments
la Newport. The waT, the state of the
countrys finances and the fact that a,
few great families were in deep mourn
ing were contributory causes to this
commonpiaceness.
The city by the sea, in which SIM
plicity is exploited with the same kind
Of artificiality as 1t was by Marie An
toinette at the Petit Trianon. came
very near being actually simple for
lack OF incentive to be otherwise.
Therefore, when Mrs. Herman Oel-
richs. with the artistic aid of Mrs.
Conde Mast and Frank Crowninshield,
held a fashion show at her house in
the name of a war charity she was
thrice biest both by the residents of
Newport and the outsiders. And when
a young girl. of undoubted charm and
prestige. sauntered along the avenue,
to the Casino and the Hilltop Inn
dangling a bird in cage from her
finger she was greeted as one who had
saved season from that innocuous
desuetude which Newport loathes.
The idea was greeted with ripples of
applause for its audacious novelty. Yet,
il was a revival from Victorian days.
OF course. that period was ugly. Out
of its depths came much that was pain
full to behold, and a great deal of II is
attributed to the bad taste of a worthy
queen who liked Scotch tartan plaids
for interior decoration.
We have learned to repeat all Of this,
tempt for Fictoranism. That long
period represented to US the use of
painted frying pans tied with satin rib
bons as wall ornaments waXed flowers
under glass globes, embroidery done in
colored worsteds. samplers with, mot
toes in cross-stitch used as pictures
and women in tight bodices, small hats.
floating wells, a variety of draperies
and an excrescence of the silhouette be-
low the waist.
So much for the way that tradition
and repetition stamp certain impress
sion upon our brains, which, the seek
ers after truth tell US, is the fault with
our mental attitude toward every
thing; that acQuiescence of tradition,
instead of curiosity and research, fiat
tens the mind to a low level of men
tality.
Evening star., 1916-08-06
women really looked like this doll there,

women really looked like this doll there,
was nothing to cayil at
her novelty to herself very long. All
winter we have been beseeched to buy
exquisite Chinese, bird cages with brill
liantly plumaged birds seated in them''
to be hung in any room OF the mousse
whether cottage or a palace.
Tiny birds that glistened like beetles
then came into fashion Instead OF the,
canary, which, resembled a newborn
chicken.
The milliners seized upon this. sym
boil of victorianism, the gaudy parrot,
and painted it and embroidered 1t on
such quantity Of hats that the price
quickly sank to SO cents.
Who was the lady who called herself
a lady, in the early Victorian era, that
did not have a half hundred artif1cia!
parrots to her credit? The making OF
these was the fashionable way in which
to spend her leisure In her rooms there
was always stuffed or painted bird
perched on a golden rod, and with skill
full fingers she originated parrots on
canvas, heavy net and strips of wood:
She did not wear them, but she used
them to adorn her home.
And when we think of those days We
shudder at the. remembrance, of all
those. gay birds that were as, precious
then as a Whistler today, and yet dur
ing the last five, months our daring,
dashing. modern young women have
displayed. as the crowning note, of mill
linery audacity. a painted. parrot on
their hats.
The parrot has passed as a novelty
and a fashionable pastime in millinery,
but another bit of victorianisni Is
creeping over the land.
1t is the worsted rose. France. look
ing at the past for her clothes tnSptra-
tion. instead of the present and future.
has lifted another bit of fancy work out
of early Victorianism and flung it into
the current of, the most daring modern,
fashions. Her nimhle-hngered needle
women knew we'll how to fashion the
crewel roses. that were part OF cos
tumery before the civil war.
She is teaching the. rest of the. world
to use these Victorian roses, which
were once used for interior decoration,
ready have, tulle, and satin gowns
caught up with bulbous roses, made Of
soft fine wool. in enchanting colors.
Serge suits are caught at the waist
line and neck with small roses In
green, scarlet, yellow and black. In
formal linen suits. in the natural tone
Of the, linen, thread, have black and
green worsted roses somewhere on the
surface where they catch the eye and
do the most good.
For some months France has been
wearing hats trimmed, with large.
worsted roses and Alpine flowers done
in green and white wool.
Satin coats and capes made for in
formal evening and afternoon wear are
caught with huge pink or crimson,
crewel roses. and even parasols have,
one enormous worsted flower to give.
color to their somber- black or plain
white surface.
France is making these roses less
cumbersome and with more seductive
color combinations than the women OF
the Victorian era did.
Evening star., 1916-08-06
ictorianis1n With French Flavor, Part of Fashions

TRANSFORMING the Beauty the PrnAr Paris
WoBed Roses Fit for Gowns Silver laces Castle Borrowed
Catherine and Newport Went Back the Duchess Of Dne
Cros-shtchng Becomes Popuar-Net Blouses
Evening star., 1916-08-06
Currant Ice and Sherbet.

namon). Boil Ave minutes longerIstralu
and bottle.
Evening star., 1916-08-06

Mix equal parts of fruit juice and