davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30

nm HERE is a great variety in the
new waist styles. There are
q dressy waists made of lace, chif-
fon, sheer silk crepe and novelty silks
with smart new touches, such as the
full sleeve. crepe collar, bolero effect,
etc. Then there are the semi-tailored
models for practical wear. made with
touches of color in narrow bindings
down the fronts, pockets, collar and
cuffs or the combination of materials
of different weave or of contrasting
colors.
Among practical waists is the nor
folk style, with broad pleats and tai
lored belt. There is a fare in the
skirt which slightly ripples over the
hips The smock type of waist is in
loose, straight cut Coarse linen waists.
loosely woven cottons in gold, Belgian
blue tan, gray and rose are finished off
with big buttons. Various styles of
binding and broad belts are used.
sometimes of leather, and sometimes of
self-material heavily stitched. Sepa-
rate skirts are frequently made of the
same fabric as these tailored waists,
as fancy material in waist is more
attractive when worn with a matching
skirt than when worn with a skirt OF
contrasting material.
Dimities in solid color and in con-
trasting shades are among the new
est thin waists. White dimities in fine
striped patterns are very smart when
trimmed with bindings of colored,
striped or plaided dimities. Broken
stripes in color about one inch wide
alternate with stripes of solid white.
For the slender woman extremely wide
frills are used in the front or side
front. This extra width allows the
frill to fall in cascade effect, thus CIV
ing a graceful finish to the front.
A surplice waist Of blue taffeta is made
with a darted surplice front which
Joins to straps that pass around the fig
.ure and button at the back in belt
form. The sleeves are long and semi
fitted, with edges embroidered in gold.
The high collar extends at the back
and sides only.
A waist in basque style is made of
organdy of two colors and two thick
-nesses The front has shaped dart
seams from the shoulders, and Is COW
cred with folds Of organdy. It closes
directly down the front with button
holes and velvet trimmed organdy but
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30
Concerning Footwear.

TT HE continuation of short skirts in
street suits and afternoon dresses
forces the wearing of high boots and
shoes. High boots of dark-colored satin
are mong the novelties for spring. The
newest design in street boots has n
gaiter effect which buttons up at each
side of the back strap.
AS substitute for the popular
standardized slipper. a new form is
shown with a broad bracelet strap that
passes around the ankle. The toe Of
the slipper is ornamented with a SINH
lar design in metal, and sometimes the
bracelet strap is embroidered to cor
respond. At the back il runs almost to
the height of an ordinary Shoe In ad-
dition to slippers for afternoon and
evening wear cut in this bracelet FORM
there is a model for wear with neglige
garments. This has the bracelet strap
for the ankle and the converging in
step strap, but at the sides all of the
leather is cut away. exposing all of the
boot except the top of the toe. The
hosiery always matches the shoe or the
costume.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30
Broiled Hamburger Steak.

Broiled Hamburger Steak.
HN HE beef should be cut from the
? round and passed twice through
the meat chopper, Press the
chopped meat into fiat steaks about
athree-quarters of an inch thick. Sea-
son with salt and pepper. sprinkle a
little -four over II. place II in fine
wire broiler and broil over Goals or in
a gas stove.
Jollied Eggs.
A variation on scrambled eggs. Place
two tablespoonfuls Of milk In a sauce
pan Ono butter) ADD two slightly
beaten eggs. Scramble with fork until
eggs are set. not hardy
Bran Biscuits.
Use the bran. not thd flour, one-half
cup of wheat bran. dne-half cup OF
wheat flour. one teaspobnful Of baking
powder. one teaspoonfu1 OF melted but
ter. one saltspoonfuI d salt. enough
milk TO form good dough to roll out
Bake in moderate ovenl +
Mashed Baked Hominy.
Mash leftover coarae hominy thor
ouKhly; to each cup add one egg and
two tablespoonfuls of milk. Bake
about thirty-hve to forty-hve minutei
in a moderate oven. When the egg u
set II is ready. y 1AA1
Apple Snow.
Whites Of three eggs beaten to a stin
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30
FOOD FOR THE CHILDREN

froth. two tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar, three tablespoonful Of thick
apple sauce or the apples were sweet
ened when stewed. diminish the amount
OF powdered sugar.. Heap in tall
glasses and serve cold (uncooked).
Rice and Figs.
Boiled rice which has been left over
may be utilized. provided 1t is thor
oughly cooked. Stew a half dozen
good ngs until tender, chop. mix with
one cup Of the rice. add some of the
liquor from the figs and about a cup
Of milk. Bake in a small open pud-
ding dish for fifteen minutes. Sugar
may be used at discretion.
Custard.
Four eggs to a quart of milk. one
large tablespoonful of sugar. a tea
spoonful Of vanilla and a dash of al
mond extract. Sprinkle a pinch of
nutmeg and a pinch Of cinnamon on
each custard IL baked in individual
casseroles. or over the top Of single
one.
Prune Sou6de.
One dozen large, we'll cooked prunes.
chopped nne, some Of the Juice accord
ing to the size Of the eggs), the whites
of four eggs beaten to a hard froth.
Mix prunes and beaten egg. Butter a
baking dish and bake; begin to bake
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30

best when short. Every two inches
that is added to it's length adds to its
awkwardness.
1t is. owing to this knowledge that
the feminine public took the problem
of the full skirt into their own hands
and solved it by cutting it to absurd
heights. They preferred to look young
and be criticised than to look old and
be ignored.
1t does not seem possible to set ones
self against the tide and refuse to
wear a wide skirt, and it seems difficult
to get any one to make it. There is no
shibboleth so dangerous to individuali-
ey as that universal one of tailors and
dressmakers: Every ones wearing it"
Women are insisting that their street
skirts be made without eXaggerating
fullness, and this is probably as far as
any one will get. If the dressmakers
are determined to spread six yards OF
material around our ankles the maJori-
.ty of women will proba bly, submit, and
in SO doing they will add years to their
age as well as inches to their hens.
The long, full skirt is peculiarly awk-
ward in the evening. 1t cannot obtain
dignity, and yet it looks though We
will have to face this fashion. There
are advanced gowns in which the trim
med skirts flow on the floor, front,
sides and back. So far We have held
our own quite well against the inroad
of ugly ideas and transformed original
awkwardness into a marked degree of
grace. The best wish is that we con-
tinue to do it.
If the farthingale or distended hip
line becomes universal some of the
awkwardness will be lifted. If this
idea becomes exaggerated through
public usage we shall enter into an era
of troublesome costumery. but if it is
wide circle away from the ankles then
it will redeem the extra full skirt.
One of the pronounced features of
the new Breton style of gown is the
apron that is often used in the front
and back of a wide skirt. This will be
taken up by the house of Cheruit and
several other designers. 1t has been
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30

appearing in exclusive models since
Christmas. but it takes more than sew
eral weeks insistence on fashion to
popularize 1t. !.
gown, trimmed with bands of taupe-
colored picot ribon. there is regular
Brittany apron with a bib OF taupe
faille silk. The surplice bodice of
taupe chiffon. with its large lego
mutton sleeves that reach to the wrist,
has a small cape collar of pan velvet.
edged with taupe marabou. which flares
as high upward as downward. does not
meet in front and is fastened by
necklace of taupe velvet ribbon.
In other and more extreme gowns the
Breton apron. with its bib. is used only
in front. Its wide strings form a Cir
die, and they are tied into a fiat bow
at the back or twisted into a knot
with long ends. The attempt to intro
duce a second color into the gown by
means of this apron has not been sue.
cessful, but it will be further modified.
by strong shades of light blue and
pink, mauve and yellow. which are
coming into evening gowns.
Any woman who likes simple lines
which give elegance is distressed when
the fashion promises profusion OF
trimming, and ii is time for this dis
tress to be shown. With the exception
of the new Poiret gowns, the fastidious
woman finds everything overloaded.
Jenny, as well as any one else, is re-
sponsible for this movement in dress.
Many of her clothes are quite enchant-
ing, but they do not owe their charm to
simplicity of line. She uses bands
upon bands of fluffy trimming going
around the figure.
Lanvin, who speaks with such au-
thority these days, is standing spon-
sor for that ancient kind of trimming
which we somehow always associate
with the costumes of the Spanish court
testers. 1t consists in dozens of tabs
of ribbons pointed at the ends and laid
over each other in straight lines.
Those are often edged with white or
bla ok rhinestones.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30
Paris Designers Planning Garments for Spring We

their models for their fashionable
patrons. but the department houses
make their money in selling hundreds
of cheap models.
commercial expert, one would say II
does not seem probable that the French
decision. IL carried out, will AFFECT the
American public.
the French dressmakers to create mar
row skirts. In regard to the present
silhouette. they have the bit in their
teeth and they propose to go as far
and as fast as they wish
The farthingale. which means the
distended hipline. will not be abandon
ed. 1t is part and parcel of the entire
dress movement for the spring. 1t
YIELDS together the two dominating
ideas in dress, that of the Spanish and
advanced in the exhibition of French
models in New York the latter part of
November.
The two significant features of these
apron. They will result in this kind of
silhouette for spring; a flattened spanel
effect down back and front and f1uted.
distended sides. The circular skirt will
be used. but on it will be placed many
kinds of trimming. Callot will not
but Jenny, who represents the other
school, will get her effects with novel
attachments of various trimmings.
Lanvin will be definitely Spanish. and
Paul Poiret, who is. happily, in the field
of feminine costumery again, is strong
ly Breton. The former has taken Goya
and Velasquez for her models and the
latter has taken the natives of Brit
tany. more in their glorious past than
in their present. =
All of this shows that no one has any
intention of going, back to narrow
skirts, although Ca1lot will have no
hesitancy in keeping down width in
her evening gowns. and she will con-
tinue to have one of her side widths
trail on the floor, to follow after the
wearer like a toy alligator drawn by a
small boy.
Three or four of the distinguished
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30

grated nutmeg. two teaspoonfuls OF
powdered ginger. two teaspoonfuls OF
powdered cinnamon. one teaspoonful OF
powdered mace, half a teaspoonful of
powdered allspice. one teaspoonful OF
salt and one teaspoonful of baking
soda.
Put the suet into a saucepan, add the
milk, bring to boiling point and boil
for FIVE minutes, then pour 1t over the
bread crumbs and the sugar mixed to-
gether.
When nearly cold. mix in the flour
currants well cleaned, raisins. peel
spices, lemon juice, salt and soda. Mix
well and add a little more milk IL not
moist enough. Pour into large
creased mold, cover with creased paper
and steam steadily for eight hours
Turn out and decorate. Serve with
hot milk or hard sauce.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30
twenty-five or thirty minutes before
time for serving.

time for serving.
Nut Loaf.
Mix together one cup each of roasted
and finely ground peanuts and walnuts
one quarter teaspoonful of pepper. two
cups and a half of fine bread crumbs. a
, tablespoonful and half of mixed sweet
herbs thyme, sage and summer sa-
vory). When we'll blended, add two eggs
slightly beaten and mold with the
hands into a loaf. Place in well but
tered roasting tin and cook in mod
crate oven about ten minutes. Then
pour over it cup of hot water into
which a tablespoonful of butter has
been stirred. Bake about half an hour
basting frequently. When well Drowned
put on a hot platter and make a nice
| brown sauce in the pan in which the
and cranberry jelly.
Waldorf Salad.
For this appetizing salad use CUP
each of apple and celery. then add a
| fine, or, If preferred. butternuts OF
black walnuts. Season with a French
dressing, pile on lettuce leaves and
keep in a cool place until ready to
serve. This will serve about four peo-
pie.
Eggless Plum Pudding.
| Three-quarters of a pound of chopped
suet, three-quarters of pound OF
sugar, three-Quarters of pound OF
currants, three-quarters of pound OF
bread crumbs, three-quarters of q
pound of -four, half a pound of raisins
three cups of milk, half pound OF
candied chopped citron peel. strained
Juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-30


Short Promised With Adoption Brittany Ideas Form Banded
Dstnded Hips AponCaeng American aeThe New
| Gowns and andB Rhinesone
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02

Davies and a grandniece Of the late
Frederick Townsend Martin, Miss Da-
vies has been visiting her aunt, Mrs.
Archibald Gourley Thatcher. at ~
East Fifty-frst street,
Mr.. Mckee Is a grandson of Mr..
and Mrs. Henry Sellers Mckee. who
have been prominent In this city and
Pittsburg, He was graduated from
Harvard in 1913.
Announcement has been made of the
engagement OF Miss Caroline Alden
Weir, daughter Of Mr., and Mrs. J.
Alden Weir, to George Page Ely Of
this city and Old Lyme, Conn. Miss
Weir was introduced to society sev-
cral years z and since her debut has
been much interested In philanthrOpic
work, having organized each season
severa. Of the entertainments given by
amateurs for charity, Her father Ia
the president Of the National Academy
Of Design, having succeeded the late
John w. Alexander.
Mr.. Ely Ia a o Of Mr.. and Mrs.
George Ely OF Old Lyme. Conn. Ma
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02

sor Of this annual entertainment. has
spent much time in France aiding In
the work Of helping the soldiers made
blind in the war. The association car
ries on m extensive work among the
blind at It's headquarters, III East
F%ifty-ninth street.
As usual the entertainment will be of
a novel character md II will be given
under the patronage Of President and
Mrs. Wilson and persons prominent In
society. Acting on the various COM
mittees will be MRS. Peter Cooper
Hewitt, Mrs. Lawrence L. Gillespie.
Mrs. Bradley Martin. Mrs. Lorillard
Spencer and Miss WInifred Holt.
An entertainment will be given on
Friday afternoon at 4 o'clock at the
new Coterie Club, 40 West Fifty
eighth street, for the bene1t Of the
British women's Maternity Hospital
in Petrograd. The London patronesses
of the hospital include Oeorgiana Blu
chanan. the DuchAsses Of Beaufort,
Sutherland and Marlborough. Lady
Somerset, Lady Mary Murray. the
Countess Of Cairns. the Countess Of
Selborne and the V~iscountess Helms
ley. The work ID under the protection
of the Empress Of Russia.
The programme will include Russian
and Polish songs and dances and an
address by the Hon. Mrs. Bertrand
Russell on the work Of the British
women who have established hospital
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02

Giles Of this city. formerly Of London.
England. Miss Grimes IL a descend
ant Of Lord Chichester Of Donegal.
Ireland. She MAS graduated from the
University Of Chicago and Is at pres
ent studying At the New York School
Of Fine and Applied Arts.
Mr.. Giles IL a grandson Of Admiral
John Giles, II. N, who served under
Lord Howe. His father. now dead.
retired as q commander in the Royal
Navy after long years of active SER
vice.
Mr.. and Mrs. r.. Fulton Cutting an
nounced last week the engagement of
their daughter. Miss Ruth H. Cutting,
to Reginald l.. @. Auchincloss of this
city. Miss Cutting has been out in
society for three years and Is much
interested in charitable work. Mr..
Auchincloss Ia q son Of the late Ed
gar 8. Auchincloss and q grandson. OF
the late Samuel Sloan.
Mr.. and Mrs. Julien Townsend
Davies Of West Islip. l.. l.. have an.
nounced the engagement OF their
daughter. Miss Alice Martin Davies
to Henry Sellers Mckee I'd. a son OF
Mrs. Wood Mckee OF 555 Park avenue,
Miss Davies has not been formally in
troduced to society owing to the fact
that her family Is in mourning. She
Is q granddaughter Of julien r
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02

Leonard Wood, Mrs. Newbold lie Roy
Edgar. Miss Margaret Cameron. Mrs.
Bruce Clark and Miss E. Louise Sands.
The committee IN decoration includes
Mrs. Belmont Tiffany. chairman: Mrs.
Arthur Scott Burden. Mr.. Lawrence
Grant White. Mr.. Frederic r.. King.
On the committee on supplies are Mrs.
Newbold lie Roy Edgar. chairman,
Miss Margaret Cameron, Miss l..
Louise Sands.
Miss Bell Gurnee is chairman Of
the committee on Red eros member
ship: Miss Ruth Draper Is chairman
of the flower. girls committee. and Miss
Edith Wetmore. chairman of the com
mit,ee on horticultural society men,
bership.
The exhibition will be open until
April IL inclusive.
The proceeds to he turned over to
the war relief committees will OF
course be used for European chart
ties, while that portion which goes to
the American Red Cross will be added
to the fund for the establishment OF
Red Cross units. or base hospitals.
Three of these units Of 500 beds each
have been assigned to New York city
in the plan for preparedness, to he
used az emergencies may arise. The
STATS Of the New York Hospital. Belle
Il and Presbyterian hospitals have
volunteered the personnel to handle
these units.
The equipment for each unit costs
$25. 900. and includes furnishings. med
icine and accessories for 500 beds. also
operating tables. &c. One chief sur
geon with 20 surgeons under him; one
chief nurse with as graduate nurses
and 80 non-professional attaches. form
a stan for each unit. Already $3S, 900
has been raised toward the $4,000
fund, Mrs. f. Henry Hartman having
donated $4,000; Mrs. Jacob IL. Schiff.
$4,000. and Mrs. Andrew Carnegie and
Mrs. Whitelaw Reid. 81, 900 each. This
fund must be completed by May /.
Mrs. Gustave Schirmer announced
last week the engagement OF her only
daughter. Miss Gertrude Schirmer. to
William Rodman Fay. son of the late
Mr.. and Mrs, Joseph Story Fay. .Jr..
Of Boston. Miss Schirmer's father was
the late Gustave Schirmer. head Of the
music publishing firm OF that name
and she Is related to many families
that have long been prominent In this
city.
MIR. Fay was graduated o Har-
yard In 1907 and later from the Har-
vard law school. He IL "A mcanber of
several prominent clubs. including the
Somerset. Tennis and Racquet. Nor
folk Hunt and Dedham Polo and
Country clubs.
Mr.. and Mrs. Ralph Oliver Smith Of
20 Washington Square West have an
nounced the engagement Of their
daughter. Miss Margaret Guthrie
Smith. to Henry Douglas Lawton Of
Rye. N. Y.
The engagement was announced re-
Gently Of Miss Vesta Lucille Grimes.
daughter Of Mrs. Frank r. Grimes of
Paw Paw. Mich. to Cecil Dashwood
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02


and Mrs. Belmont Tiffany. vice-chair.
man, has assumed active MANAGEMENT
NJ ne Garden.
M. x,....,a. w..
"ar ,sc'et So,''ee
american runo TOT rTench Wounoeo
and New York County chapter OF the
American Red Cross will share the
proceeds OF The tea garden the frst
day. Assisting Mrs. william A Prime
" cha,rr,or 10 ;h. too ga, rom
lee. o.. ~. 49,. -. ...Sr"
''''ee au nv Aor"ier orkani1a'
ions. VIII ne MISS Anne Morgan. Mrs.
Ethelbert Nevin. Mrs. A. NJ. Dixie. Nine.
Ia COmtesse dc In Cree, Mrs. Robert
Lincoln Campbell and Mim Marie
Io,,se Emmo,
nj. ,,I.,s,, -o. a.. A..
.""n" "eeH anu '"e
eoii",.''eeS io. eacn Is as io!OWs:
vacation Wax Reflex
sonI",''er ann american n TOT
rrehch "ouhu"o' Mrs, william a.
rrime: 1r' chairman MISS anne MOT
Ian. Mrs. E'ne'ner. Nevth, Mis' =. NJ
nHke' Mne, Ia ,omtesss DE Ia 'reze.
Mrs. tooert lncoi "po MISS
"'ar'e i<ou's7 .'"Npet.
-Lnnerlean AmoulHnce-n no
p,t". VIE ,.voeI' HaIoN. snA',mAn
Ms rSsu ". " E'c I', nv
X vsndarhi,, Mr. ~ A,e"smdsr
Mrs William Greenoush. Mrs William
Hamilton Russell, Mrs. willard d.
Straight.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02

L. Richard OF this city. will be cele-
brated in the chantry of st. Thomas's
Church ON the afternoon Of April "a
at 1880 O'Clock. Only relatives and
a few. intimate friends will witness
che ceremony. which will be per-
formed by the Rev. DIR. Ernest M
Stires, rector Of the church. After
ward there will be a reception at the
home Of Mrs. Claus A. Spreckels, aunt
Of the bride, GAO Park VENUE. Miss
Wooster has been passing the greater
part Of the winter here with her aunt.
The bride will have as her only
attendants her sister. Miss Edith
Wooster. and Miss Ruby Bond. who
will come on from California for the
wedding. Richard =. L~ounsbery will
be best man and the ushers will be
Harold c.. Richard and George N.
Richard. brothers Of the bridegroom:
John Eglnton, Jr.. Daniel L. Lawton
Of this city, Brice 8. Evans and Rob-
ert l.. Hamilton Of Boston.
Mr.. Richard will give his farewell
bachelor dinner on April 81 at the
Calumet Club.
Arrangements have been completed
for the wedding Of Miss Ruth Doug
las. daughter of William Harris Doug
las. to Howard A. Plummer. and 1t
will be celebrated In st. Thomas's
Church on the afternoon Of April q
at 4 O'Clock and will be followed by
IA reception at the ST. Regis. The
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02
Continued from Ftrst Page.

tiasr and after an absence Of several
Oaars Mrs. Clement c. Moore expects
60 be in Newport.
Mrs. Alfred g. Vanderbilt has re-
Gently purchased in Lenox. Mass. part
uf Erskine Park. the estate Of the late
Mr.. and Mrs, George Westinghouse.
The villa now standing on the place
will be moved by George Westinghouse,
WAo inherited 1t from his parents, to
y part OF the estate known as Deer
Park. Mrs. Vanderbilt has acquired
more than 800 acres. on which she
viii build. She has leased for the SUM-
Aer Ventfort Hall. the country place
6uilt bv the late George II. Morgan.
What promises to be OF the most
attractive and interesting features of
the International Flower Show, which
opens al the Grand Central Palace
On Wednesday. will be the Red Cross
Tea Garden. Here society will help
% raise money for various war relief
funds.
THE tea garden will he an artistic
rendezvous for tea and dancing during
mo afternoon and evening of each
day Of the exhibition. There will also
be recitals by vocal and instrumental
artists, exhibitions Of classic and mod
ern dancing. moving pictures and vari'
Gus other diversions. Young women
Of society dressed as Red Cross nurses
representing all the nations to be aided
Will serve as mattresses at The tea
Gables.
Among those who will dssist on the
opening dGy are the Misses Mildred
Reeves. Maud Slater, Gladys Water.
bury. Helen Rives, Gabrielle Warren,
Marie Rodewald. Geraldine Adee, Anne
Bradley. Katherine Crosby. Gretchen
Damrosch, Georgia Appleton. Marie
johnson. Helen Flake. Naomi Towns.
END, Katherine Price Collier and Ma.
eie Louise Emmett. Their costumes
designed by Miss Marjorie Curtis. are
decidedly quaint, being red, white, and
blue, the skirts striped vertically In
t4iese colors. They will wear chic little
R1ssian caps. A clever poster for this
day has been designed by Miss Fannie
Taylor.
Mrs. William Kinnicutt Draper, Sec
Fetary Of the New York County Chap,
Ter Of the American Red Cross. IL
chairman Ct the tea garden COMMITTEES