Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1916-10-13

with the collar, Cufs and buttons Oi the
fur, and fur buttons make something Of
q feature of these new fashions, and
promise TO be extensively used In
door gowns also show fur used in
various ways, but as matter of course
IN greater moderation. narrow landings
being the most general form in which
they appear.
There Is considerable discussion ON
the subject of coats but finger and
wrist lengths probably will prevail for
suits with long coats for afternoon
visits and for evening wear The
waist line both In suits and in gowns is
something of a problem for IL appears
IN many forms. One designer will put
forth the raised or Empire line. another
prefers the long straight line of the
Moyen age, and a third clings To- the
natural waist line. although nothing
Of the "pinchcd in effect is TO be met.
Judging from indications IL is to- be a
season of very great variety and also
OF great opportunity.
Colors are singularly beautiful
There will be great deal of rich darl,
red worn. Burgundy and Bordcauv
shades are iavorites and there is a new
red that Is known as Rivouac, that Is
lust a little unlike either of the others
but rich and dark and especially bcauti-
iul In velvet. A very striking three
piece costume that comes from the
house of Buloz, is made of velvet IN
this color and gives evidence of the
modified Moycn age effect that UNI
doubtcdly will be seen 20 some extent.
he bodice OF the velvet extends we'll
10 the hips IN almost straight lines.
The full sleeves of Gcorgcttc IN match
Ing color are attached dt the dropped
shoulder line and both the bodice aud
sleeves are enriched with embroidery
in gold thread, but this embroidery is of
the new sort which is obtained bv
machine stitching over stamped
design, and in this instance, that de-
sign takes the form of a succession OF
diamonds arranged to form borders and
edges in a most effective manner. The
bodice is made with high neck and
straight standing collar and the emf
broidery enriches all the lower portion
and gives the effect OF a wide girdlc.
The skirt is plain over the hips, but
arranged In very full gathers at the
front and at the back. The short
little coat is quite suggestive of the
military with a perfectly plain loose
back with belted front and Is trimmed
with mink on the edge, mink collar
and mink cuffs. II is an exceedingly
beautiful costume, in It's color, in its
combinations of materials and in It's
embroidery, Il can be taken as indi-
eating the essential feature of the new
fashions.
Embroidery undoubtedly is to be
extensively used, every possible kind
of embroidery, the machine stitching
that is put to wonderful uses and also
the hand embroidery of the heavy
effective sort. On one side there is 20
be noted a marked tendency toward
the Chinese and Bulgarian designs
and all the Oriental and semi-oricntal
effects, but on the other there will be
met such simple effects as a single
conventional flower outlined with silver
or with gold, or a spiders webs worked
with silver thread or with gold thread
giving a wonderful lacc-like and iasci-
mating effect A very handsome after
noon gown Of charmcusc satin is en-
riched with embroideries on the bodice,