The sun., 1916-10-08
Moyen Age Lines Are Conspicuous,
but There Are Signs of the Re-
turn of DirectOire Styles

as the robe OF a Pharaoh's queen In ali
Egyptian painting. the upper part OF
black chiffon. the lower of black satin,
the trimming an effective embroidery
Of tiny bright blue beads and dull gold
threads intricately interviewer.
And. quite different In line from
either Of these models. il "A dark blue
cloth froCk whose skirt IL even mar
rover around the bottom than that OF
the Egyptian model. but has tiers OF
fiaring LOUNGES slashcd at the sides
hung over this narrow foundation.
The bodice Is very severe. high necked
and spreading sleeved and all the edges
OF the frock are embroidered in the
narrowest possible design with cerise
chenille.
All three models are pictured on
this page, as Is another attractive Cal
lot in supple. finely corded silk OF a
pinkish beige tone. with embroidery
In very small pink beads. The skirt
Of this frock is far from narrow. II
IL indeed uncommonly full. but the
opening at the bottom Is small. the
fulness being caught in on each side
In an effect that vaguely suggests
Turkish trousers.
On the whole the Cabot skirts are
perhaps narrower than those of any
other authoritative house. but there
are plenty Of exceptions among the
Callots to prove the rule. The lines
are straight. yet here again many en-
ceptions come in. skirts are certainly
longer and trains are frequent In eve
ming frocks. the double rain hguring
in some of the models. as in those
from several others OF the first rank
houses.
Lanvin Is frankly given over to the
straight, short frock. but not so short
as the frock Of last season. Her
models. as a been said before, are
youthful In air. but they are charming
and wearable. and have sold perhaps
more rapidly than any of the imported
models. This maker il not yet where
h can charge Cabot prices. but her
prices have steadily mounted and are
now in line with those Of most of the
first Enthusiastically so.
TIL Lanvin model is simple in gem
eral outline hut often ornate in detail
and always has its note of originality.
The two frocks sketched for this page
are fairly typical but lose much OF
their cachet in losing their color.
one is Of ivory b~roadcloth over black
satin. the satin showing only slightly
where the skirt Is opened up the sides,
but used for sleeves. for IA very wide
girdle and for a rolling collar that
stands well away from the throat
The ivory broadcloth is deliberately
but ~delicately embroidered in fine
tracsry Of black. and under the from,
opening of the collar. at the wrists
and in the few buttons are vivid
splashes Of fame red cloth.
More sober but still more effective
is "A straight little frock of brown
velvet in IN exquisite quality. sof,
and light as crepe n with no sugges.
ton of thickness ever where the skirt
is shirred n hangs full but straight
; There Is a very decided Moyen AG,
feeling about this frock. due not onl,
to its straight lines and dropped wais
but also to Its collarless. shallow. ova
:. neck and the horizontal lines of en-
! broidery that are the only trimming
l embroidery in dull gold on brown
; tulle. The brown of the velvet is
|, delectable shade for which II Is hard 4
| find a name. a medium tom that 1
: not maron q Iowa nor wood. bu
indesCribahly soft and lovely.
y This model is being much copied il
various shades. though in no colo
u does II seem so beautiful as in tn
original brown, hut the average WON
u an balks AT the hard, dark neck line.
This feature. either in "A shallow
2 oval or in the still more medieval lln'
! running straight from shoulder y
4 t.