davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1916-09-20
few DEPARTURES
IN FALL FOOTWEAR

Mems hats for fall show in a very
marked degree the effect of the war and
resulting raw material conditions Light
colors are being featured because they
must feature light colors. Pearl. gray,
tan and natural shades will be much in
evidence. Dark colors will be shown Of
course, and sold as heretofore, but m
stability of these colors in the cheaper
lines will influence the dealers to en-
phasize the light colors realizing that
they will give the Wearers surer salts
faction in addition to the fact that they
are decreed most fashionable. II. the
matter of shape. the military influence
again asserts itself. especially in the eft
hats, which are toward lower crowns
and broader and f1atter brims. Also
narrow silk bands will be in vogue again,
intensifying the military aspect Of skcse
soft hats for fall and winter Accord
lngly trooper" shapes will be very pop
ular. Some of these hats have the mar
row bindings stitched on while others
have the raw edge or welt edge brims,
The turned under binding is also a fcS-
ture of some of the models. Besides the
shades of pearl and tan. olive drab of
the tone worn by our soldiers Is popular.
Apple green is another good shade. In
tact, green in various shades is the
dominating notes in the soft hats for
the season. Even where the felt is OF
tan, pearl or steel, green often appears
as the contrasting trimming effect,
Browns are shown to some extent-a
great deal more than either black or
blue, which for this season are in the
background. Another new feature in
soft hats is the shadow mixed effects
shown chiefly in dark greens. oxfords
and steel. Next in popularity to the
trooper" shapes will be the alplnes with
slightly dropping brims. Fedora shapes
are also shown somewhat TELESCOPES
are not well defined in the early edicts
SO it is believed they are not highly re-
garded for the season. Optimo shapes
are for the present suffering part al
eclipse.
Each succeeding season sees a more
noticeable retirement of the stirr hat
For this fall and winter derbies are shown
In very conservative shape, in fact show
but the very slightest variations from
last season. trifie wider brim, a some
what lower crown and a little less round
Ing OF curl. Whatever departures Are
noticeable in these stiff hats will be q
tendency toward emphasizing lighter
colors. Pearls, tans, steels and dark
browns are shown more for this fan
than has been observed for several sea
sons past. There are also contra sting
schemes IN the trimming effects, black
bands with the light pearl, and in the
other shades the bsS1ds will be of a
lighter tone Of the same color as the
foundation.
In caps the vogue ia toward very
Scotchy patterns. Jockey shapes are
most fashionable, even though these
styles have not as yet found the popu-
lartty Of the more conservative golf
shapes -
The Washington herald., 1916-09-20

Separate waists answer so many OBJ
legations that We are as ever Ioath to
forsake them. The sober Colors of
fashions rainbow are USED with suits
especially steel gray. navy and deep
red. Blouses of chiffon. GeOEgette.
taffeta, faille. net and tafTeta and satin
often portray colors such as char
treuse, Copenhagen. Cyclamen and
gold. white, gray. maize or blush
with or without black or white lace,
have long sleeves and open collars. or
as fancy wishes high collars.
The bit of color on sheer white
blouses mark them 1916 models. Waists
are often worn outside the skirt. A
MILDLY blouse of crepe de chime has
the fullness belted in with a sash.
Then there is a Close-fitting striped
taffeta blouse which reaches to the
knee and buttons down the front.
a silk jersey waist has flower
embroidered on the left side with an
other flower embroidered on the oppO-
site sleeve.
White Georgette lace and fIet lace COM
bine to make an effective blouse. The
waist has a she'll collar of the crepe in
serted with a wide band of the flet, and
edged with a knife pleating of the crepe
and it is brought around and fastened
with a knot of turquoise velvet ribbon.
The sleeves are of crepe with inserts OF
hlet gathered very full to the elbow and
from that ale huge puffs OF crepe to the
wrists finished with a narrow band of the
turquoise ribbon.
Serge and black satin comprise the most
obliging One-piece frocks. Old-time cash
mere is again used Navy blue with
black. black with pink natter blue with
mauNe. or royal blue with black are good
combinations One-piece dresses OF taf-
fetas jersey. velvet satin Charmeuse.
ribbed effects. brocades and pile fabrics
element are vital factors in the trend of
fall fashions.
marine blue charmeuse and black
Chantilly lace combine happily in a dis
tinctive gown. The corsage has an unique
stiff. wide Charmeuse collar topped with
a wide ruffled black net collar. The long
sleeves Of black net with pointed lace
cuffs have three-Quarter length over
sleeves. There is a plested charmeuse
skirt with the sides draped and the un-
derskirt distended from the hips across
the back. Pleated black Chantilly lace
shadows the front skirt panel
The Washington herald., 1916-09-20

When the fairies restored their presents
Ito the princess, afterwards famed for her
200 years nap, they made her good and
lovely, rich and wise, but in modern times
sleeping beauty would wish to have
conferred upon her the gift of dress in
etinCt," for the American women crave
fhat as most precious boon. Nowadays
I'VE must credit her with possessing it,
for the standard Of good taste and the
understa ndinS of what to wear places
the American woman in a class by her
self There is nothing frivolous about
studying the clothes problem. Those who
give it the most thought and then ap-
parentIy forget it, are the ones most
practical and best dressed.
Autumn is the season when the greatest
fashion changes occur. The practical
sartorial ideas originated without the as
sistance OF foreign designers, has given
Us worldwide fashion reputation.
3 Inspirations for fall garments have been
taken from many periods and countries.
Russia, the ancient costumes Of Poland,
the MOyen age. Louis Fifteenth period,
are among those that contribute their
quota.
Broadcloths, velour de laine. velours,
The Washington herald., 1916-09-20

MY thought was that a proper corset,
the corset of the future, should be a
physical aid to women. 1t must support
certain organs, protect others; that II
should do its part to remove superfIuous
flesh in some parts and to "fill in or
develop contours in other parts.
''Hpgiene was uppermost in my mind.
The next step was to make it conform
to appearance. or style as you call it.
1T has been a process of education -
continued Mr.. Kops. Women have seen
the value of this idea. Today it is not
so much appearance as it is comfort,
hygiene and appearance. The three have
been satisfactorily combined
When I first started" said Mr.. Kops,
L gave good deal of attention to the
women who had too much flesh. But I
found that too slender women had lust
as hard time to be healthfully corseted.
And, continued Mr. Kops, while /
gave only a secondary thought to style
value, that, curiously enough, came right
almost by itself. Corsets do not deviate
so much as many fashion writers would
have you believe by their headlines" he
continued with a twinkle in his eyes.
"Corsets have for some years past fol-
lowed closely the natural lines Of a per-
feet physical form. I don't believe there
will be in our time any great change.
nip may be taken in the waist. But
it's simply nip and not, as many
fashion writers would have you suppose.
tightening that would compress any
organ"
When asked as to the new ideas in
corporated in the Memo corsets for the
coming season Mr.. Kops said:
I have two very interesting ones,
which think all women will like to
know about One is for women who have
tired or weak backs. It is a supportinx
band, or rather series Of overlapping
bands, which goes inside the corset at
the back Just below the waist. This
band follows set of muscles which tire
easily.
1T was some time before I got the
right idea-it has taken several years to
make II thoroughly practical Now I
have 1t. The supporting band, though
It laces up with the same eyelets as the
back lace, is a bit tighter. This allows
The Washington herald., 1916-09-20

Being fashionable implies more than
merely picking the right costume these
days. The fashion DEGREES the lady's
figure and how the costume should be
worn. so the selection of the proper
corest is as important a matter as the
selection Of the gown.
Ready-to-wear American corsets have
reached a high state of perfection.
Today a woman who is able to pay
from $3.50 to s. can buy a corest at these
prices and it will be fitted to her by
more than a mere saleswoman who is
found in the core st department-an ex-
pert. She has studied the organs Of the
body in their relation to proper coresting
She knows the different types Of the
American wOmen's figures. She Is up on
the fashion silhouette Of the day. In
short they teach women to corest them
selves from the inside out and not out
wardly only.
Manufacturers of American ready-to-
wear cOrests have made this possible
So great has been their inventive energy
and their business capacity that Ameri-
can corsets are now sold in all the Zig
cities Of the world. They are sold even in
Paris-in the delectabIe Galleries La
fayette fO- instance Could more be
said of the woman who knows?
One of the biggest Of these American
corset firms is the Memo. Mr.. Daniel
Hops started to manufacture his
unusual corset twenty-three years ago.
In a recent interview Mr.. Kops said:
when I started to design American
eorsets I had been educated along other
hf2es- But in my research 1 saw what
harm had been done to womankind by
wearing ill-htting Corsets.
Corsets had been made up to that
time more with the idea OF style. Seem
mgiy no attention had been paid to COM
fort and less to hygiene
The relation Of the corset to woman
health had not been siven enough study
practically none.
II first took the physical structure l
studied physiology. learned women's
anatomy. studied women's Ills and their
causes. / found that many women suf-
fered physical ailment because they COM
pressed some organs and misplaced
others, due to the nature Of their corset.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-20

for the correct curve in the back q,
the corset under the dress. The under
band, tighter makes back rest with
out spoling the outside contour.
The other invention, the 'wonderlfft.
bandlet as we call It, is to support the
organs of the lower abdomen. Tt lis an
underbelt attached to the corset sides
under the corset and fastening in front,
out OF sight entirely. 1t is to hold up
weakened physical organs or too much
flesh, which drops naturally by the law
of gravity. -- -s-...' :. -.
Every woman knows that a corset has
tendency to pull down on the figure by
the end Of the day This bandIet correets
this" -, :. -
The Butler weekly times. (Butler, Mo.) 1881-1918, 1916-09-14
All Stamp Taxes Removed Friday
Night.

Kansas City, Sept. 9.-Tele-
grams received in both Kansas
Citys by internal revenue collect
ors yesterday afternoon instruct
ed them that the stamp taxes
would be no longer effective after
midnight last night.
This action was unlocked for by
the federal officials as the repeal
of the bill was only passed by con-
gress Wednesday. It was expect
ed that the tax would be effect
i've until the first of the year.
The Kansas City, Mo-, revenue
from the sale of stamps amounted
to about $1,000 per month. The
tax of 1-8 of q cent for each D.
cent value on cosmetics will be
removed as well as all stamps on
documents, such as deeds, bills OF
lading, bonds, notes and insur-
ance papers.
The bill creating the tax passed
congress December l, 1914.
The Butler weekly times. (Butler, Mo.) 1881-1918, 1916-09-14
Bates County Fair-Continued.

Speer.
Yearling bull: John Speer.
Calf, either sex: John Speer.
Sweepstakes-3 Beef Breeds.
Best bull any age: LIST, w. A.
Baker; End, G. G. Deweese.
Best cow or heifer any age: LIST,
w. A. Baker; End w. A. Baker
& Son.
Swine and Sheep.
w. w. Perry and C. z. Baker,
superintendent swine. Claude
Baker and Eugene Blankenship,
superintendent sheep.
Best boar 2 years and over: LIST,
w. A. Baker; End, S. Y. Burks,
Bolivar, Mo.
Best boar l year and under q:
LIST, w. w. Perry; End, w. A.
Baker & Son.
Best boar under 6 months: LIST,
w. A. Baker & Son; End, l.. S.
Paddock.
Best sow 1 year and under q:
LIST, G. L. Argenbright; End, w.
A. Baker & Son.
Best sow 6 months and under
IL: LIST, w. A. Baker & Son; End,
s. Y. Burks, Bolivar, Mo.
Best sow 8 months old and un-
der 6: LIST, w. A. Baker; End, S.
Y. Burks.
The Butler weekly times. (Butler, Mo.) 1881-1918, 1916-09-14
Christian Science Services,

Christian Science Services and
Sunday school will be held each
Sunday in the Probate Court room
at the court house. Sunday
school 10 a. m. Services IL a. m.
Subject, matter"
All are cordially invited to At
tend.
The Butler weekly times. (Butler, Mo.) 1881-1918, 1916-09-14

Bates county: Homer Bartlett.
Corn.
Best 10 ears of corn, any varie-
ty: LIST, w. q. Baker; End, G. M.
McGovern. .
Sweepstakes on white corn, G.
S. Kersey.
Sweepstakes yellow corn: w.
b. Baker.
Best 10 ears of corn, all one va
riety entered by boy under Fl /:
Jack Brandon.
Best 10 ears of corn, all one va
riety entered by boy under 21 {:
E. A. Smith.
Longest 10 ears of corn, all one
variety, entered by boy under 81 !:
Lloyd Baker.
For 3 tallest stalks of corn,
same to have at least one good
sized ear on it: Horace Furge-
son.
Sweepstakes, white or yellow,
best 10 ears Of corn: j. r.
Wright.
Sweepstakes, best 10 ears Of
corn: w. z. Baker.
For 6 most perfect ears of corn
raised in Bates county: Dale
Brandon.
Best 10 ears Of corn entered by
boy not over Is years of age: E..
A. Smith.
Best 10 ears of corn, one ear
to be from each acre of 10 acre
plot: w. d. kersey.
Culinary Department
Mrs. Sam Davis, Mrs. Sam
Walls Mrs. John Harper, super
intendents.
Best burnt caramel cake: Mrs.
ID. &. Newsome.e
Best loaf salt rising bread: LIST,
Mrs. T. j. Smith; End, j. w. Poi
fenbarger.
Best one dozen doughnuts: LIST,
Mrs. j. w. Poffenbarger; End,
Mrs. Glenn Deweese.
Best one dozen cookies: LIST,
Miss Julia Deacon; End, Mrs.
Boyd Williams.
Best nut cake: LIST, Mrs. Lula
Ilelwig; End, Winifred Pharis.
Best cocoanut cake: LIST, Mrs.
p. H. Norton; End, Mrs. Lydia
+. Strein.
Best layer cake: LIST, Mrs. j.
S. Meyers; End, Mrs. J. w. Pof-
fenbarger.
Best fruit cake: LIST, Mrs. T. J.
Smith; End, Mrs. Glenn Haggard.
Best loaf of bread baked from
Golden Grown flour, LIST, Mrs. B.
p. Powell; End, Mrs. p. II. Nor
ton.
Best sweepstakes dozen rolls !:
Mrs. Roy Wilcox.
Best loaf Of bread made from
Royal flour: LIST, Mrs. B. P.
Powell; End, Mrs. John Ray.
Best cake from Royal flour:
LIST, Mrs. C.. H. Rains; End, Mrs. j.
w. Poffenbarger.
Best loaf of bread made from
Aristos flour: LIST Mrs. E. X.
Wolfe; End, Mrs. Frank Van
druff.
Best layer cake: LIST, Mrs. Lula
Helwig; End, Mrs. d. G. New
some.
Best angel food cake: 1st, Mrs.
Frank Holland End, Mrs. Roy
Walker.
Best caramel cake: LIST, Mrs.
P. H. Norton; End, Mrs. Glenn
Deweese.
Best sweepstakes loaf of bread:
Mrs. i. S.. Wright.
Best sweepstakes dozen rolls:
Mrs. l.. S. Wright.
Best sweepstakes cake: Mrs.
Meyers.
Best chocolate cake: LIST, Mrs.
H. H. Burk; End, Miss Stella Hen
dirk.
Best jelly cake or roll: LIST,
Mrs. j. w. Poffenbarger; 2nd,
Mrs. T. j. Smith.
Best dozen light rolls: LIST,
Mrs. Roy Wilcox; End, Mrs. l..
). Wright.
Best ginger cake made by any
ady in Bates county: 1st, Mrs.
W. B. Herrell: End. Mrs. f. H.
Roster.
Best devils food cake: LIST,
Mrs. Lydia Strein; End, Mrs. Wal
:er Classify.
Best chocolate cake: Mrs.
Frank Allen.
Textile and Art.
Miss Flo Miller, Miss Pearl
2osser, Mrs. Grant Moudy, super
The Butler weekly times. (Butler, Mo.) 1881-1918, 1916-09-14

End, Mrs. Geo. Dixon.
Handsomest hand made por
there: Mrs. II. H. Burke.
Handsomest silk quilt: LIST,
Mrs. Sam Davis; End, Mrs. l.. s
Wright.
Handsomest Navajo blanket
Mrs. Frank Allen.
Handsomest handmade cur
tains: Mrs. Rosamond Scroggs
Mrs. Il. s. Wright.
Handsomest hand made baby
cap: LIST, Mrs. Lem Sargent
End, Mrs. H. s. Latham.
Handsomest hand made baby
sacque: LIST, Mrs. Elmer Miller ;
End. Mrs. Lon Ray.
Handsomests hand made boot
ces: LIST, Mrs. Elmer Miller; End,
Mrs. Elmer Miller.
Handsomest baby dress: LIST,
Mrs. O. A. Heinlein; End, Mrs. O.
A. Heinlein.
Handsomest embroidered lunch
cloth: list, Miss Rosamond
Scroggs; End, C. w. Hit.
Handsomest centerpiece: LIST,
Mrs. VIM. Seelinger; End, Mrs.
Elmer Miller.
Handsomest sofa pillow: LIST,
Mrs. Clabe Stuckey; End, Mrs. w.
H. Hupp.
Handsomest pin cushion: list,
Mrs. j. w. Poffenbarger; End,
Miss Julia Deacon.
Handsomest quilt with pieces
set on: LIST, Mrs. j. S. Meyers !:
End, Mrs. Il. S. Wright
Best quilted quilt: 1st, Miss
Laura Church End, Miss Laura
Church.
Handsomest hand made hand
kerchief: LIST. Mrs. Clabe Stuck
ey; End, Mrs. j. w. Poffenbarger.
Handsomest hand made dresser
scarf: Miss Ella Godson, Mar
shall, Mo-; End Miss Edna Clark.
Handsomest hand made piano
scarf: 1st, Mrs. Lem Sargent !;
End, Miss Rosamond Scroggs.
Best specimen of tatting: 1st,
Miss Mary Rodgers: End, Mrs. P.
II. Norton.
Best specimen of eyelet work !:
LIST, Mrs. J. w. Poffenbarger; End,
Mrs. Lem Sargent.
Best specimen Of carnation en-
broiding: LIST, Mrs. Clabe Stuck
ey: End, Mrs. II. Herrell.
Best specimen of rag carpet {:
Mrs. j. w .Pofenbarger.
Handsomest home made corset
cover: LIST, Miss Rosamond
Scroggs; End, Mrs. Elmer Miller.
Handsomest home made under
skirt for lady: LIST, Miss Ella
Godson, Marshal, Mo-; End Mrs,
j. w. Poffenbarger.
Handsomest home made. shirt
waist for lady: LIST, Miss Minnie
McGill: End, Miss Ella Godson.
Handsomest home made combi-
nation suit: Mrs. j. w. Poffen-
barger.
Best piece of fancy work by
Bates county girl between the
ages of 10 and 16: 1st. Mrs. Nc
Ginnis: End, Miss Reta Kerrens.
Handsomest table cloth with
pair of napkins: LIST. Mrs. Glenn
Ilaggard; End, Mrs. W. II. Hupp.
HandsomeSt pair of embroid-
cred pillow eases: 1st, Mrs. Leta
Helwig; End, Mrs. Glenn Hag
gard.
Handsomest embroidered towel:
1st. Mrs. Elmer Miller; End, Mrs.
Leila IIelwig.
Best specimen of Irish crochet:
1st. Miss Edna Clark: End, Miss
Ella Godson.
Best crayon work: LIST, Miss
Mary Middleton, Clarksville, Mo-:
2nd, Miss Dorothy Arnold.
Best oil painting: LIST, Miss
Edna Clark; End, Miss Mary Mid
dletOn.
Best water color: LIST, Mrs. Ed
Waller; 2nd, Mrs. w. r. Curry.
Best pen picture: LIST, Miss
Mary Middleton; 2nd, Miss Mary
Middleton.
Best specimen of pencil drawing
by boy or girl under 16 years,
Irene Seelinger.
Best collection of hand painted
china by resident of Bates coun-
ty: LIST, Miss Edna Clark; End.
Mrs. Frank Ream.
Best collection of old relies, age
md workmanship considered: LIST,
Miss Edna Clark.
Best specimen of reed work,
Mrs. Frank Allen.
The Butler weekly times. (Butler, Mo.) 1881-1918, 1916-09-14
o.I.C. White

M. Fish, Bolivar, Mo.
Best boar / year and under 2:
L. M. Fish.
| Best boar months and under +:
list. L. NJ. Fish; End, w. X.
Thomas.
Best sow 2 years and over: LIST,
L. M. Fish; End, w. R. Thomas.
Best sow / year and under 2:
L. M. Fish.
Best sow 3 months and under 6:
l.. M. Fish.
Duroc Jersey.
Best boar 2 years and over: l..
M. Fish.
Best boar l year and under q:
G. T. Dewitt.
Best boar 3 months and under
6: LIST, L. NJ. Fish; End, G. F. De-
Witt.
Best SOW 2 years and over: LIST,
L. M. Fish; End, G. f. Dewitt.
Best sow l year and under p:
LIST, L. M. Fish; End, G. F. De-
Witt.
Best SOW 6 months and under
70: LIST, L. M. Fish; End, G. F..
Dewitt.
Best SOW 3 months old and un-
der 6: LIST, l.. M. Fish; End, &. +.
Dewitt.
Sweepstakes.
/ Best SOW, any breed and 6 or
more of her pigs: LIST, G. L. Ar
genbright; End, W. II. Thomas.
Best sow any breed l year or
over: LIST, w. A. Baker &. Son !;
End, S. Y. Burks. .
Shropshire Sheep.
Ram, l year and over: LIST, E.
Il. Laughlin; End, G. l.. 'Argen-
bright.
Ram lamb year: E. E. Laugh
lin.
Eve / year and over: LIST. E.
+. Laughlin; End, G. l.. Argen-
bright.
Eve lamb ] year old: E. E.
Laughlin.
Oxford. .
Ram l year and over: E. E.
Laughlin.
Ram lamb 1 year old: E. e.
Laughlin.
Eve l year 'and over: E. f.
Laughlin.
Eve lamb l year: E. E. Laugh
lin.
Horticultural Department.
E. M. Bice and Verne Peak,
superintendent.
Apples.
Ben Davis: LIST, Mrs. P. c.
Fulkcrson; End, E. Brandon.
Huntsmen Favorite: E. E.
Black.
Jonathan: LIST, Mrs. II. j.
Smith; End, E. E. Black.
York Imperial: E. E. Black.
Grimes Golden: LIST, Geo. Ar
genbright; End, E. E. Black.
Minkler: Mrs. Edison Snider.
Greening: Mrs. J. T. Smith.
Best plate of apples any varie-
ty: E. E. Black.
Pears.
Best plate of keifer pears:
Robert Sturgeon. |
Best plate of pears any variety:
LIST, H. N. Harper; End, Robert
Sturgeon.
Other Fruit.
Best plate of pllms: LIST, Mrs.
Philip Pry; End, Mrs. Edison
Snider.
Best plate Of grapes: LIST, Wal
ter Arnold; End, Mrs. T. j. Smith.
Best plate of pears any variety
H. N. Harper.
Farm and Garden Department
Il and Agriculture.
Roy C. Baker, Ed Frazier and
Everett Brandon, agriculture sup
erintendents. f. D. Miller and ID.
F. Owens, garden superintendent.
Best 7-2 bushel Irish potatoes
entered by boy under IS: Harley |
IgnO.
Best head of cabbage: Mrs.
Ira Wiser.
Best peck Irish potatoes, en-
tered by lady living in Bates coun-
ty: Mrs. Hamilton Herrell.
Best IL bushel Irish potatoes
by man living in Bates county:
u. s. Paddock.
Best peck sweet potatoes any
variety: Mrs. Gus Helwig.
Best squash, any variety: LIST,
Claud Farrisham; End, Mrs. Ira
Wiser.
Peck largest onions: E. A.
Smith.
Largest pumpkins: j. r.