Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-10-29
and Silver Cloth and C0l0red Metal Tissues

usual price Paris ala not intend this
to be done, and yet TO do her full jus.
the glory Of her clothes she viii re-
ceive more profit, II as much. than she
has received in recent years.
Why? Because all work, fabrics and
dyeing have become expensive beyond
counting in Paris. The cost of satin
went up to SO a yard. broeade went
up to $40 yard and more and panne
velvet went up to $40 and more.
The government allowed its I'M
wounded and unneeded needleworkers,
cutters. filters and colorists TO come
back to Paris for brief spell and as
sist the great designers in their work.
but the designers paid well for this as
sistance. Every worker in Paris has to
receive far more than was ever paid in
France, because the necessities of life
have risen to such high prices. Even
charcoal which is needed to keep one
from dying in Paris winters. is almost
beyond the reach of the majority. 1t is
not easy to get, and when 1t is gotten
it takes up most of ones income.
All of these reasons contributed to-
ward the prices Paris has asked for
our winter clothes. If the buyers did
not pay the prices they could not get
the clothes, and If they returned TO
America empty handed IL would have
meant financial failure for their fl MS.
America was able TO pay the prices be
cause America was prosperous. was The
buyers argument. but the tre:neu las
question that faces the American WON
en- today is. whether or not they will
pay what is asked them for these mag
nificent garments.
Paris asks S400 for tailored suits that
were SITS. Evening gowns cost be-
tween $500 and $500. Wherever fur
was vas used the price went up possibly
the price jumped ahead. Chiffon blouses
brought SIS and $50. Topcoats brought
$3.50. Satin street suits cost anywhere
between 5000 and $3.50.
1t would be wearisome to give you a
list of prices. but remember that the
initial cost of each gown had in add-
ton so per cent duty to be reckoned
when it was brought to this side.
A gown that cost sae0 would have
$40 added to it. If the American firm
asked $50 fat it would not be taking
into account any of the travelling ex-
penses of costly French trip.
One three-piece suit cost a New York
importer s1,10o to land on the pier. Any
one of the superb metal gowns by Bull
loz cost an importer between $3.50 and
$3.50 to land.
Look at some of the gowns in detail.
Cabot made a dinner gown of green
silk in an exceedingly rare color and
weave. and the entire bodice across
the back and extending over the hips
was like a brilliant beetle worked out
with infinite skill through the medium
of unusual metal threads. semi
precious gems and touches of especial
~ dyed floss.
Bulloz made q gown for Miss Elsie
Ferguson which is a museum piece. It's
cost was reckoned anywhere over $3.50.
Miss Ferguson wore this on the OPEN
ing night of her new play.
1t is q straight, medieval gown of net,
which is SO entirely covered with gold
bullion threads that not a particle OF
| the net is visible. The lower petticoat
! is of a specially woven piece of solid
| gold lace, and the swinging. medieval
drapery from the shoulders at the back
| that extends over the arms to the
wrists and is caught at the hips and
| trails to the ground is of black lace
| heavily embroidered in gold threads in
an ecclesiastical design of the four
teenth century. 1t is commonly sup
posed to he the longest piece of uncut
! lace drapery ever used in the making
of clothes.
| Take another gown made by Bullox
for Mary Garden. This Is called Grise-
! lids. and she viii wear it when she
sings the title role of the opera of that
name. 1t is a medieval frock of pearl
gray satin which has a long tunic
dropped over chemise of gray chiffon.
| The bodice is entirely embroidered in
| jewels and held by gold and silver
threads.