The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-09
by ELEANOR HOYT BRAlNERD.
ND now "a military ban Is put
\ upon tho fun skirts

A Nj now a military ban Is put
~ upon tho fun skirts
To he sure, the protest comes
from British sources. Even
JofYre would hesitate TO tell the Dress
makers of Paris that their modes
should hc changed in the interests of
the French army. But. while the
French army may respect the aspira-
tons Of French dresmakcrs and their
customers. IL is undoubtedly true that
French drcssniakcrs and French woin-
en- are devoted to the army and II 1t
could be established that the extra
widths going into the fashionable
skirts are in any way detrimental to
the interests of the French soldiers and
the French cause there would speedily
ne such a skirt collapse IA would glad
den the hearts of the many women
who hate those same fashionable full
skirts.
one could wish that the French Min
lister of War would take the matter up:
but the chances are that only the
swing of fashions pendulum will n
The triumph Of the full skirt and the
disseminated must wait with what PHI
losophy they can muster.
Certainly even in the straightcst
of the straight line models there is no
sign of narrowing skirts. There are
tailored costumes whose skirt width is
only moderate. but even the moder-
ately narrow skirt is not to be found
outside the province OF tailored
clothes. There are full skirts and
EULER skirts. and Jules skirts. From
ngnnyU fhGNn yam may ynnln NnttP
choice.
And Yet SO soft are some of the ma
tcrials II SO c~levcrly are they handled
that skirts enormously wide at the
hem. hut unStincrcd. sometimes APP
proNimato straight lines in spite of all
thor iluifincss, II these models arc
shown side by side with the most am
bilious Of crinolincs.
Cabot. whose eagerly awaited and
tardily delivered models arc this sea
son, at least 50 FAR as The models
for The trade are concerned. scarcely
triumphant enough to justify the
cascrncSs or the waiting. gravitates
twiNt straight lines and ~bouffancy-
an eclectic course entirely IN accord
ancc with the principles Of art and
tut IN lIlIlIItS VI lile nouSe tL ShIlOt.
There are evening gowns in the
Callot collection that in line are more
frankly of Vatican and his fellows
than any other models OF the season
though the designers have scorned the
naive plnks and blues N lavenders Of
the period and carried out their idea:
in luscious fruity yellows, gorgeou.
flame ami black ~brocades. wonderful
greens. There's a Cabot fancy fol
hanging a Vatican back drapery from
q necklet of flowers that furnishes tn,
shallow round decolletage of a tull,
bodice in front and drops in a point a
the back-but that detail is illustrated
on the opposite page.
And there are the Quaintest Of oil
fashioned real Lao collars and cuff!
on a little black taffeta frock in which
the ordinary woman would look {
trump, though II is an adorable thin,
Ior the right type. A sketch OF thi
model Is given, but one must see tn,
frock on the right woman 10 appreG
ate its charm, and must note the ex
Nuisite quality of the yellowed lac
and the delightful design and c~olorini
OF the Powered ribbon finishing tn,
entire front line.
Another very simple Cabot mode
mat has been we'll liked is the straigh
little frock Of blue Eabardine, button
ing down the back and associate,
with a loose sleeveless coat. In boil
of these models. as in many Others
Cabot has retained the long. rattle
close sleeve, instead Of following TIT
tendency toward full, or draped sleeves