Evening star., 1916-09-13
OF Interest to Women

V V OlllNll
piece suits will be worn. another
buyer answered: You bet they viii.
It costs Sl.1oo to land one such suit by
Doucet In this country"
II one mentions the fact that en-
broidery was never so lavish since the
fifteenth century. the depressing
answer Is: Yes. and II needs the for
tune OF fifteenth century king to pay
year that the Americans have the
wealth of the De Medicis."
Not Prices, But Styles.
One has a clutch at the heart that all
these frightful prices paid for clothes
in Paris this summer mean that we can
no longer be decently clothed without
parting with our last penny. 1t is all
right to consider the lilies of the field.
but they have the advantage over us in
not being amenable to the law. Neither
have we the advantage of being fed by
the ravens. like Elijah, for we haven't
the gift OF prophecy to pay for the
food.
Well, nothing is as bad when you face
1t as when you talk about it. and in
some way we shall all see to 1t that wyB
get something like these clothes that
are now being unpacked from French
tissue paper. r4
What are they like? Do they por-
tend any cataclysm in style? Are we
on the eve Of another sartorial revolu
ton And mainly. and most emphati-
cally. will the clothes OF yesteryear serve?
Here are the answers: The clothes
you have will serve for while. but
probably not for long. No cataclysm
Is foreshadowed, but experts think we
are gliding through the eve Of a revolu-
ton.
Looking over everything that has
been taken out of its boxes SO far. ono
comes to the conclusion that France
would have immensely liked to use the
directoire, but that she wanted to use
up the materials she had on hand;
Therefore, she decreed full skirts and
Jackets with much fullness in the pep
lum. Sleeves are also long and fuit-
The demand of the dressmakers, there
fore. will be material and more mate
run from $3.50 yard for cloth to S20
and $25 yard for special brocades.
The buyers had to gamble on how much
material they would need and buy every
ing that 1t would be difficult, II not
impossible, to procure the fabrics here.
Callot for Marrow Skirts.
Two houses stand out for narrowness.
These are Callot and Bulloz. The lat
ter is a close imitator OF the former
this season. Their evening gowns are
not only quite narrow. with trains. but
their street suits have short and mar
row skirts.
on skirts this year victorianism IL
dead. The wide skirts have no ufsten.
sion, no crinoline. and make no enort
to flare out from the figure
The Louis Quinze style. with ITS Ger
clettes and panniers. is dropped. or,
namental pockets are placed here ana
there on the skirts. but 1t Is said that
| the smart women in Paris VIII not nave
them.
that holds to the barrel skirt but the
| outward curve that it makes Is caused
by narrowing the hem into wide
| band. Callot's Jackets are short. but
| nearly all the other houses make three
quarter-length coats for suits, and the
topooats nearly full length.
The topcoat will be in Its glory this
season. That much is settled over here:
| The one-piece frock, therefore, Will
triumph over the tailored suit. as far
| as numbers go. The American woman.
however is peculiarly fitted to wear
the tailored suit. and IL she gives 1t up
she will make a serious artistic mis-
! take. The lack Of men workers in
France and the garment strike here
produced a comparative dearth of plain
| coats and ekirts.
| The suits that have. been brought
| over, however. are very good looking.
| II a woman wears one with brflliancy
she will look like a miniature Of one
| of her ancestors.
| Collars are high and rolling. Revers
is slim. such as a dandy would like.
and the full peplum falls in various
| convolutions over the hips.
| There is room enough, however, for
4
age Americans wardrobe. The one
| piece frock is a necessity, IL one leads
any manner of social life. The topcoat
| is lavishly trimmed this year. when it
| Is used for ceremonial occasions and
! in satin. heavily soutached. 1t has
reached the apex of fashion.
What of the Moyen AgeP
The problem of the Moyen age will
| strike women during the next week 1t
| is now in full tide. but will it swiftly
ebb? 1t came over in expensive gowns:
| it is already selling at a reasonable
price at all the ready-to-wear shops.
No one argues against the prophecy
| that it Will have tremendous run
| among all classes of people for the
next two weeks, but it behooves the
woman on an average income to in
| quire intofits chances of holding on un-
| til Thanksgiving.
| 1t has grown to be custom to buy
| the first autumn clothes at this time
| of the year, even under the full knowi-
edge that the models from the great
| houses have not yet been shown. The
American manufacturers and the minor
houses in Paris make up a combina-
tion Of clothes that floods the country
with early autumn models the first
| week in September. and this arrange
| ment is quite advantageous to every
! one concerned. 1t takes the edge OF
, all surprises, for 1t fureshadows every
| thing and allows the majority of wom-
en- to make a careful selection when
the first of October arrives with the
last shipments of French models
II you want to be mirrored in the
fashion glass of the hour, see to it
that you get the exaggerated Moyeu
pa Sor