The sun., 1916-09-03

cards carry many new and fantastic
names. all fairly descriptive.
For the moment the purple tones
are given prominence--a prominence
that Is calculated to make one hesi-
tate about choosing anv one Of them.
not because they are not beautf. ul, but
because they are likely to be worn
too generally. Already the milliners
have hoated the purple hat to popu-
larity with all classes, and before the
season IL fairly on the fastidious
woman will be tired Of the purple
hat she chose enthusiastically from
the hrst showing OF autumn millinery.
The same o~versuccessful career
may await the purple fabrics; but
there are many wonderfully lovely
shades among them. and some of these
shades in exclusive materials may
survive the deluge. Most Of the inn
ported purple materials. whether dark
or light. have a slightly reddish tone.
and the domestic stufYs too exploit
many Of the reddish, fruity puppies,
though on the whole they are bluer in
tone.
Wine shades approach the border
land Of the puppies In some cases, but
Burgundy and Bordeaux and similar
have been taken up very enthusiastic
cally in Paris.
There are some new greens among
the handsomest materials-greens Of
bronze tone. most Of them. though
there are exceptions to this even
among the dark greens. and many
clear and bright greens are offered In
lighter shades.
"Haricot rouge" kidney bean red.
bivouac are only less popular than
the wine reds: and mahogany. that
trying and UNACCEPTABLE color. 10 being
pushed.
The browns are possibly the most
satisfactory line Of shades shown, and
though one hears less about them than
about the puppies and reds II would
not be surprising II in the long run
they proved to be the favorites of the
winter season. They range from light
est beige and champagne down
through castor and such medium
shades as maroon TO the very dark
tete do negre. or African brown. and
the Java brown. which Is a new tone
akin to these two.
Beige takes on various tones. all
modish, some more gray than brown.
others more brown than gray, and all
soft and lovely. The grays. too. run
throueh innumerable tones, some OF
them differing but very slightly, yet
individual for all that: and espe-
cially In velvets grays are very desir-
able.
All OF the gold and mustard and
lemon and orange toned yellows are
included In the new showing, and an
amending procession Uf pink. rU~s n
light red tones files before ones eyes
wherever materials are displayed. Az
for blues--there Is n end TO the var!a-
lions upon the word blue. Bleu Vierges
Is a new arrival; Patrouchka Is an
attractive medium tone; Hague IL soft
but rather ineffective (hence the
name p: Tornado is a good very dark
blue dashed with gray: petrograd has
a touch OF green in it. and all Of the
! blues familiar during the past year are
1 repeated. No n save the makers
will remember the names; but they
have a certain interest. as have the
names Of the new fabrics.
There are the cloths. for example.
The handsomest Of them have soft
velvety surfaces: and because we
learned several seasons ago to ASSOC
ciate this sort OF surface with velours
de laine and duvetyn we will prob
ably lump all OF these ultra modish
cloths under the heads OF velours de
la!ne and duvetyn: but the manu-
facturers and importers know better.
There are velours de LANES and
duvetyrs. to be sure; but there are
nc suede weaves. too. suede glace,
suede twill, &c. all suggesting suede
leather In finish. but differing In weave
and weight. The chenille cloths are
thicker than vetOurs de laine, but
wonderfully light. G!be!ines are
silky, hairy. lighter IN weight than
ever before. Moquette Is a new wool
with a velveltlike pile. Gloveskin
cloth Is what it's name implies. Snake
skin has a slightly rough though soft
surface.
Serges. gabardines. broadcloths and
variations upon them are less ex-
elusive than the velvety woollens,