Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-06-04

a suit of black alpaca trimmed with
white in the way of buttonholes belt
and cuffs, but. is it came during the
most violent winter weather we had. 1t
did not make a strong impression on
women who were not thinking of sum
mer clothes.
Today they are glad TO remember it,
and tailors are turning out extra smart
! suits of black, blue and dull Wine-col-
ored alpaca. often the coats have no
| lining, although it is difficult TO per-
! suade any tailor to make q skeleton
| coat. You may remember what tus-
| sic advanced Americans had with the
American tailors some years ago in
| trying to persuade them TO take the
padding and interlining out of coats.
| They thought that Strengthened shout
| ders and q padded back We're neces-
| sary to any eood-ftting coat
/ 1t took fully three seasons to con-
| vince them that we would not wear
padded coats any more and that we
skeleton coat which hung from the
shoulders and had no artificial curves.
This coat had a lining. but today there
| is newer movement on foot to rob
the coat of even that in a hot season.
Cheruit has started a fashion for
lining thin coats with thin linen in
an opposing color. and this is A most
comforting fashion. However, its OBJ
stacle is that the linen lining brushes
so easily that it is constantly in need
of a hot iron and a skillful hand
1t is really better to leave out the
lining. If YOU can find a tailor clever
enough to do il without spelling the
silhouette of the coat. IT, however,
the preference is for lining of some
sort in order to give body TO the out
side material. then the softest China
silk in a pastel shade is chosen
The Chinese silks. known as pongee.
tussor and shantung. have swirled up
! into the highest fashion. They are
used in their natural color, and when
1 hi 10 -
of color is introduced. usually vivid
shade in the way of stripes or flowers
| The accepted silhouette for q suit
this summer is carried out in happy
manner by these Chinese weaves The
pleated skirt and the short jacket, with
its ripping fullness at the sides. its
ornamental belt. in part or whole. and
the bell-shaped sleeves and rolling col
lar with their fscings of some brilliant
ia brio. are all features that arc well
carried out by the scftness of pongec.
1t cannot fail to he significant that
the pIeated skirt advances with the
| summer. We are very, very tired of
panniers and hip draperies EXCEPT in
evening gowns. and already the skjts
| of many ioopinss and twistings and
vague lines. punched NJ above the
knees, have become shopworn. They
are sold from $40 up in the great cities
at the rcady-to-wear shops, and, there
fore, the better dressed women have
turned in mass to the straight picat-
ed skirt that may have a yoke or orns-
mental pockets to break I'D it's severity
of line.
Poplin is an Irish fabric that has
come and gone through the decades
In America il is woven in both silk
and cotton threads. and the latter has
been widely accepted for separate
skirts as a substitute for linen and
cotton duck.
The better weave of Irish poplin is
a first cousin to faille because OF the
slight cord running through it, but it
is not only endurab1e but delightfully."-
cool in summer. whereas faille has
neither of these qualities. \ we'll
1 chosen poplin frock or suit gives the
same service as serge and easily be-