davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21
Waving Presses
 for Waveless Heads

N NLY the woman who has strug-
 & A gled, through all kinds of
 weather, with lank tresses that
 " refuse to fluff and insist upon gathering themselves into spiky wisps, can truly appreciate the incalculable blessing of curly hair! The wavy- headed one goes blithely and placidly on her way, taking for granted in manner that Is maddening to straight locked sisters, her enviable f1uffi- ness and waviness, in weather damp or dry, In sea mists and sea spray that make the straight-locked one un- lpresentable, and in breezes and in gales that make the straight-locked one look like a witch.
 An unspeakable blessings gift of the gods-is naturally curly hair, and from time immemorial woman has struggled with unruly, pipe-stem straight tresses, seeking to impart to them that bewitching waviness that frames the face so becomingly.
 | The trouble is, that only an expert art can initiate the effect of nature. Wavy hair that grows so" really waves very little, the undulations are subtle and they never change. Arti- flcially curled hair is usually curled too tight, or the waves are uneven, l1umpy, or worse still-frizzy. Very flew women can wave their own hair satisfactorily and even the profes- sional marcel -waver Is apt to achieve result that is depressingly stiff and rigid until forty-eight hours or so have taken the eGge-so to speak-off the crisp ridges. Some heads of hair wave more easily than others; a good deal depends on the quality and the texture of the hair, its coarseness or f1neness, the amount of oil in it and the condition of the scalp. Very fine. limp hair that becomes oily soon after shampoo, takes on kinky. frizzy wave which may disappear entirely in a damp breeze or after being slept upon overnight, and such hair must be curled often-much to its detri- ment-if the wavy effect is sought after by its possessor. Life during the summer months. to such an unfor- tunate, is 8 period of slavery to curl ing iron or "kids." The constant wearing of hat, with consequent heating of the head, takes an arti- ficial wave out of the hair very quickly and many women who wear a sport hat continuously in summer. even at luncheon hour-a practice encour- aged by custom and fashion just now
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

new models, all fluttering little frills from edge to belt. It measures five yards around at the foot and one may compute for her own satisfaction or discouragement-th amount of i chiffon pleating necessary to make eight or nine flounces on this f1aring skirt. The frilled sacque of chiffon is also stiffened mysteriously-so it appears for the fllmy chiffon seems to stand out from the figure all by itself, appreciably adding to the floating ef- feet of the negligee costume. Tubu- 1 lar featherbone cording, hollow and made of fine horsehair, was used to give this chiffon sacque it's beautiful airiness.
 Organdies Seem Starched But Are Not
 Milady's white muslin" donned for the afternoon seems to be as stiff1y starched as ever her great-grand- mammals WIS; but as a matter of fact there is not particle of starch in it. For some reason or other starch that humble instrument of the laundress-is under the ban as far as feminine garb Is concerned. A starched frock or blouse or petticoat always seems to convey the impression of commences and cheapness and fab rics are so cobwebby fine these days that one dreads to think what would happen If starch did become fashion able. But there is a certain sugges- ton of starchy crispness in the lin- gerie frock of organdie or tucked batiste which flares quite as mon- strously as the dance frock of tulle or the tailored skirt of mohatr, or worsted material. The dainty lingerie dress of hand-tucked batiste measures eight yards around and all this ma terial-for tucking must be done on straight, ungored breadths--is shirred into the belt. Most of the fullness Is pushed to the sides and at the cen- ter front and back rows of shirring hold the skirt down trimly over the hips. This full skirt is worn over a white silk petticoat also very full and trimmed with rows and rows of lace frills; and under the petticoat is a dainty contraption known as bobbi- net-hoop. This is petticoat made of fine white bobbinet and run with three very light featherbone hoops, each hoop being hidden under a frill of the bobbinet.
 The tucked lingerie frock just de- scribed shows another feature of the f1aring silhouette - the tight-fitted bodice. It was inevitable that trim waistlines should come back into fashion as soon as skirts began to spread out How else, was a thick and clumsy effect to be obviated? Woman must reveal the secret that she is slim somewhere; if skirts are tight it is all very well for bodices to be loose and baggy, but If skirts pillow out and entirely disguise slen- derness or enbonpoint then waistlines must be made to prove that slender ness is there indeed. The revelation of a slim ankle is not enough-for all the fiaring skirts show slipper or but toned boot to utmost advantage-but ankles do not always prove slender ness of figure; as everyone knows
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21
WASHABLE KID BOOTS
 MEET WOMAN'S APPROVAL

~ HE other day young woman
 wearing fairy-like pair of V speckless white buttoned boots, ripped blithely across a muddy street to join some friends. "Oh, my dear," remonstrated one of the other women. How could you wade through that mud in those beautiful shoes!" The owner of the white boots laughed. Why, a sponge and little water will clean them off as easily as slate!
 One never has to worry about them a bit--theyre washable kid, you know" Only a few years ago wash able chamois gloves were brought out to be a boon to womankind. and now there are washable kid boots and pumps which may be made as dainty and spotless as when new in the wink of an eyelash. Truly the labors of woman are being frightened and also the expense of dressing attractively, for kid-that most beautiful and sat- n-smooth-fitting fabric-could only be cleaned a few years ago by a bath in ill-sm cling naptha or visit to the dry cleaners. No messing with sticky
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

many stout middle-aged women have 1 tiny feet and slim little ankles; so the responsibility of proving a graceful, girlish figure under all the billowy skirt f1ounces devolved upon the waist | line and forthwith bodices became 1 tight and trim. Even draped bodices are draped over girdles made of crin- oline with supporting stripes of feath- erbone, and some bodices have actu- ally seams and darts boned under heath like the tight fitting waists of the seventies and eighties.
 Resilient Stiffening Used Under Soft i Silks.
 While hoops are usually used to dis tend transparent frocks, the best re- suits are achieved in costumes of silk, worsted, pongee, linen or other on-transparent fabric, by facings of some stiffening fabric of light, resilient character. The desired, attribute for such stiffening is that it shall be crushless, springing back to it's origi- nal residence after being sat upon, crowded into theatre seat or packed in trunk. Otherwise it could not perform its duty: that of holding the lines of the costume exactly as the dressmaker intended them to be. The gay little crinoline maid pictured, | tripping along with her parasol raised, wears a very modish frock of printed taffeta distended by deep facing of resilient fabric in the skirt. This holds out the edge crisply and a petticoat with two hoops distends the skirt below the hip. The bodice is small and close-ftting in contrast with the full skirt.
 Paris Favors the Fartllingalc Effect.
 Many of the couturiers allow the edge of the skirt to fall Imply. but distend the hips in exaggerated man. ner. This effect is shown in two il- lustrations. One is a Premet frock
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

pastes or liquids when one whitens ones footwear now; no smearing of sole and heel with unsightly daubs that must be wiped off later; one ap- plies plain water with little sponge and-presto! ones tall, smart buttoned street boot, or slim dancing slipper, or sturdy sport oxford, Is white as drifted snow. Mothers appreciate this new washable kid especially for the cleaning of little boots Is a much easier and daintier job than 1t used to be in the days of liquid powders and pastes.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

of silver lace and ciel blue taffeta. The fitted girdle of blue taffeta Is embroidered with silver roses. The Breton, apron and the f1ounces over the hips are supported lightly by fac ings of stiffening fabric. The other frock. by Jenny, is of. saffron colored taffeta with appliqued rose embroid- cry In tea-rose and pale pink shades. The skirt is lifted at either side in simulated farthingales which reveal suggested petticoat of cream net and silver lace.
 Hoops are seldom worn under the tailored suit of serge, broadcloth or mohair and worsted mixture. A fac ing of resilient stiffening under skirt, peplum or cape collar gives much the better effect in lines.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

less back muscles-essays the momen-
 tary effort. Result: more or less back strain and not unlikely some serious injury to delicate internal organs. Tn the housefurnishing stores now there are convenient trunk-tables, just the right height to bring the tray under ones hand with no wearisome bend ing of the back. These tables are strongly built and are about the size of the average dress-trunk tray. The filled tray may remain where it Is on the table until the man of the family appears to do the lifting, for there will be no immediate necessity of get ting the tray off bed or floor.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

by means or r1DDOnS tlcu afOulAu
 the head after the shampoo.
 irons are too hot, for women have not the patience to use them correctly. If heated over a gas flame the iron should be carefully wiped free of soot before being applied to the hair and the heat tested on bit of tissue paper Irons that scorch white paper will certainly take the life out of the hair. Much better use an iron not quite so hot and hold the twist of hair around 1t longer. Haste in curl ing the hair makes pretty enough wave for an hour or so, but the wave soon straightens out again. Hold each twisted lock over the iron while you count thirty and you will keep your wavy tresses several hours longer. And twist each lock between the fingers before you wind 1t around the iron; this makes a much more natural, and a more enduring wave
 The metal curriers' make a very pretty, loose wave, but it would be torture to wear such contrivances at night Few women do disfgure them selves with night curlers any more for the hair may be waved in an hour during the morning. while one pot ters about the house, and the curriers' hidden under becoming boudoir cap. The business woman may wear her curlers for an hour before going to bed. and soft silk nightcap will pro- tect the waves.
 Water-waving the hair is tedious process, but the result is soft. very natural wave and fuffiness that makes each hair stand up from the parting as naturally wavy hair does After the shampoo the hair is par tially dried and then white tapes or ribbons are bound around the head and the hair pulled carefully ur in puffs between. Then the locks are ldried in the sun or by flaming.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

is one to achieve it in the home
 D sewing room?
 That is the burning question just now with thousands of ambitious home dressmakers-and other dress makers who claim for themselves measure of professional skill. For unless the flare conveys an impression of floating lightness, of tripping daintiness, 1t Is 8 failure. And when one realizes that from ten to thirty yards of material must go into that engaging flare, the problem becomes still more serious: for something Just what one must discover-will be required to support all the yards and yards of fabric in the light and float ing effect so desirable. Without such support, the great quantity of fabric will fall Imply back upon itself in iines-graceful enough to be sure but then limp and clinging lines do not happen to be the fashion!
 Woman's Walk Changes With Her
 Skirts.
 The f1aring silhouette has accom- plished a definite change in woman's carriage. She walks differently, stands differently and sits differently. The languorous, dropping pose which attended limp, narrow skirts has dis appeared and femininity now stands erect and upon both feet-and moves daintily and blithely instead of with gait expressive of nervous exhaus- tion. This is something to thank the haring silhouette for, truly!
 But this has nothing to do with the how of the fiaring silhouette-which is the question we are immediately Interested in at the moment For one thing, there are hoops. Not the clumsy Arrangement of wires and straps which distended petticoats back in the sixties. but quite adequate hoops for all that One of the illustrations shows light skeleton-hoop for wear under dance frock or a lingerie frock whose fabric is too airy for the light weight resilient facing of stiff fleming fabric that may be inserted in a costume of silk or serge. This hoop, you perceive is not only a hoop; it is also farthingale, the looped attachment at the hip distend- ing the skirt sideways while the cir cular hoop at the bottom holds out dounces prettily from the ankles. The actual hoops are lengths of feather bone, a lighter weight being used in the farthingale attachment. These strips of flexible bone are run under shirred castings in white wash net, the ehirred edges of the net forming a dainty puff which softens the line of the hoop under a sheer frock. Eight narrow white ribbons suspend the cir cular hoop from a ribbon belt and the farthingale is sewed three of the ribbons at front and back, short strips of ribbon catching the sides of the farthingale together to make the ex- tending loop at either hip. This hooped device is so light that one scarcely knows one is wearing it. and the net and flexible featherbone crush easily into a chair, making it much easier to sit down than in the sixties, when one had to proceed as carefully in at- tempting sitting posture as does the family dog when he walks round and round the spot in which he has elected to lie down.
 The negligee petticoat is worn over a net and featherbone skeleton-hoop like the one pictured, except that there is no farthingale attachment at the hip. The petticoat is one of the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21

cover the straight natural hair with a wavy transformation from morning until dinner time. The wavy trans-
 formation makes a becoming frame for the face and cannot be detected
 under the shady brim of sport hat. Before dinner. when one dresses for the evening, the transformation may be discarded and the natural tresses brushed and waved for the evening coiffure. This is really very prac- tical arrangement and saves deal of trouble and worry about ones ap- pearance all day long, for sea breezes and mists. boating and even the vio- lent exercise of tennis will have no power to make the beautifully wav- ing locks of that transformation fall in unsightly wisps over face and neck.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21
TRUNK PACKING MADE EASY.

"A ANY lame back results from
 H lifting heavy trunk trays. Just
 auA when ones packing Is finished. no one happens to be nearby to help lift the full trays into the trunk; trays litter up bed, floors and chairs and since the task of replacing them in the trunk will take but moment, the average woman-who probably takes little or no exercise and has almost use-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-21
Twenty and Thirty Yards Filmy Fabric in New DanceF Frocks- -Peplums, Panniers, Umbrella Pleatings, Panels and Capes Aid La Ligne" In the 1916 Silhouette- M odern Hoops Fairy like Affairs.

~HIS fetching. floating, fairy-light
 silhouette of the moment-how
 is one to achieve it in the home ~ sewing room?
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
LoweH Maintains
All Votes Sworn
in Are Illegal
IN COMMUNICATION 10 COUNCIL
SAYS LAW NOT EFFECTIVE
TILL JAN. 1.

In a written communication. filed
with the city council fast evening,
Judge 5. A. Lowell holds that all
votes sworn in at the December city
election are Illegal and void for the
reason that the law under which such
certificates were made out did not
become operative until Jan. /, 1916.
However, he thinks that the provls-
ions of the state constitution may
validate the election lie requests
that the city attorney give an opinion
on the matter His communication
is as follows
To the Mayor and Common Council
of the City Of Penlleton
Permit me to call attention to the
peculiar situation which exists as
touching those persons who voted al
the recent city election under certit-
Gates supported by affidavits of two
freeholders.
Such procedure was supposed to
have been authorized by the provision
Of Chapter 20 of the laws Of 1915
providing for permanent registration
Of voters.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
Mnman sncs for Dlrorce.

Alleging that her husband, Willis J.
Hillman, has driven her away from
home, Martha Hillnan today filed
suit for divorce. The couple were
married in Ritzyille, Wn.. in Septem-
Der. 1914, and it was last August, she
alleges, that her husband ordered hef
out Of the house She accuses him
moreover with addiction to liquor, and
with refusal to contribute to the sup
port Of her / year old daughter by a
previous marriage. She alleges her
husband owns a 10 acre ranch near
Freewater valued at $4,000 and con
tracts other land She asks for $50
per month until further orders of the
court. and $275 with which to pay
her attorney and costs w N. Peter
son is her attorney
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06

In my judgment that act did not
become operative until January /,
191, and therefore all OF the regis
ration by certificate at the munich
pal election in December, 1915, cleo
ton was ana is void and OF no ef-
feet
1t is possible that the provisions OF
the constitution Of the state may val.
idate the election and the voting re,
pardless Of void registration, but as
suredly under existing conditions, the
law cannot give to the certificates the
element of hermanency which the act
OF 1915 contemplates.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06

T. B. Gurdane the new CHIEF of
police. has not yet named his force
of assistants and stated that he would
make no appointments until Mayor
Best RECEIVERS more from his injuries.
Night Officer VIM, Scheer, who has
been on the force for many years is
said to be pretty sure or retaining his
job Elmer f. Turner is said to be
slated for a berth on the force, Chief
Gurdane took office this morning and
Alex Manning, the retiring chief, has
been at the office most Of the day
assisting in the turnover and packing
up his personal belongings The old
force is still working today and will
continue until the new appointments
are made
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
In For An oyster supper.

Last evening just as the new coun-
ell went into caucus, some one pro-
posed that if any one man should
receive the unanimous vote for an
office he would have to answer for
his popularity with an oyster supper
Judge Fitz Gerald recorder, was the
only one to receive such vote ana
he declared he would rise to the oc-
casion.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
Tramp" Osborn in Jail.

"Tamp' Osborne ot Hood River
who used to pitch for the La Grande
team Of the Western Tri-State league
/. is serving out a 800 fine imposed up
on him at Hood River for assault and
battery. Because the Hood River
bastile is. cold in winter, he has been
transferred to The DalIes. Osborn is
an old time pitcher and, When here
once, got into trouble by reason OF
his reputation as a card sharp He
is not the same man as Wheeler os-
born, star PendletOn twirler.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06

reyersibility The under part is made
in two pieces opening down the front
to the waist line, in order that It may
be donned conveniently. The smock-
ing allows for fuIness over the bust
Yoke, panel, belt and tunic are made
In one piece, detachable for the pur-
pose Of reversing The plain side,
helped by an attractive collar and
cuffs, is suitable for business wear
Ey shifting the wastlnc up or down
removing the collar lower part Of the
sleeves delcting the plnrls drop SKIRT
and other features the gown can Dee
made to do duty for any occasion dur.
ing the day or night
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
Real Winter Near Weston.

c. F.. Little forest ranger for the
district IS miles east Of Weston,
along the old toll road between Walla
Walla and the Umatnla river, is in
the city for a few days while the gov
ernment is preparing winter quarters
for him. He has been living in a tent
up to now but when the thermometer
went down to 10 below he decided
that the real winter was approaching
and asked for few days layoff
When he left there were two feet OF
snow at the station. The govern
ment will build a cabin for him so ne
can go back in a few days
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
AskIng boundary Changes.

The comfy boundary board is toda.
considering two petitions for the
change Of school district boundaries
One petition asks for the cutting off
Of three sections from the Echo dis
trct and the adding Of them on 10
the <taufiel5 district O. L. Dunning
member Of the stanfield board and
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
Wants to Put on Popcorn Wagon.

J F. Miller last evening applied t,
the new city council for permission
to operate a popcorn wagon in from,
of the Pastime and Orpheum thea
ters, representing that the proprietors
of those playhouses would not oh,
ject There is Mt present an ordi.
rance against such wagons He Of
rered to pay a license fee Of $100 peI
Year The matter was referred &c
the street and license committees.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
Seeking Information

Stewart and Company Of Denver.
Colorado writes the Commercial as
sociation for Information regarding
opportunities in this section for cap
ital Of from $500 TO $4,000. The
company states it receives almost ev-
cry day inquiries for data concern
ing Pendleton and surrounding coun-
try.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06

respectfully request that the ques-
tion be referred to the city attorney
for his opinion and II his view is in
accord with mine as herein set forth,
then, upon his report, that the coun-
eli direct the city recorder to notify
each elector as provided by Section
Q Of said act that the attempted reg
istrauon is void, and that the cards
will not be placed in the permanent
registrar Of electors.
This is "a matter OF general public
interest.
Respectfully,
STEPHEN A. LOWELL
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06

\ lady, who does not care to make
public her name, this morning asked
the East Oregonian to tell its read ars
that heated rock placed in a stove
at night would prevent the coils from
freezing She states she has tried
this method of protecting the coils
and has found it successful. The
rock will keep warm an night, she
states.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06
All DaY Fnll of SNOW.

Pendleton has been pelted by snow
flakes all day shortly after S O'Clock
this morning the snow began falline
and has continued all day without
cessation. The total fall has probably
been a couple Of inches on top Of the
snow already on the ground. Farm,
ers would be willing to see six or eight
inches more.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-01-06

J. q. Wallace are representing the
petitioners while A. o. Garden, clerk.
and T.. b. Elder, one of the Echo di-
rectors are here opposing it. The
other position asks for the cutting off
Of 20 acres from the Ferndale district
20 add on to the Milton district W.
w, Barnes is representing the petiti-
oners and w. \ Wallace and J. B.
Saylor Ferndale directors. are APP
peariRg for the demonstrators.