Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-11-19
Tendency Toward Longer Skirts and Full Goats

the days when women had the time or
opportunity to make an elaborate-tyfler
for the street, another for the house
and still another for the afternoon: We
are too busy or we pretend to be. IT'S
an actually and a pose.
There are tailors-and they are legion
who are more than eager to make =
street suit that has light skirt, one
that is both moderate in width and
short. but not too short. Their prtceis
not diminished by the diminuticn OF
material used: don't hope for that bpt
their cut is better and your appearance
is far better than IL YOU had let them
make it according to many of the. pat
terms they insist upon at first.
If the jacket is short. then the skirs
may be slenderly full. which Is the
motto of the hour. and the other way
around is also true. that II the jacket
is colonial or revolution. whenever
you may wish to call 1t, then the skirt
must be short and all fullness taken
from the front wherever IL is possible
to do il without making one look Ike
"A picture from 1910 in a sheath skirt.
If the tailor whom you consult has
a pattern of one of those new GOATS
that built up above the waist. line
by series of skillfully arranged
gussets especially placed in the front.
then you can safely rely upon il for
the original touch which we all hunt
for a needle in a haystack
Contrary to the first assertions Of the
early autumn, there are high. straight
fur collars still in fashion. They are
not in first fashion, but as long as fheN
are worn at all certain women VIII
cling to them for the sake of warmth
and because they dispense with the
fretting worry Of how to hide the neck
when a low blouse is worn. For no
matter what fashion has decreed our
women have not yet taken up with the
high boned collar to any extent
The better collar. however Is the ono
that is high and deep ~ tn" bach and
covers part of the shoulders the,
spreads itself down 10 the bust. y
makes n picturesque back ground fyi
the face keeps the neck warn, ;.siG
when made of pcltry. as it should" be
unless one has handsome furs to apps
separately, it gives the winter touch
which adds to the effect OF a SUIT.
:;
The colors are rich this winter. Black
is not looked upon with an approving
eye. and it is not attractive In the fab
RIGS which are chosen for these suits.
ranging, as they do, over severely
! limited area. Broadcloth. of the ex-
| tremely supple weave, is insisted upon
| by sufficiently strong authorities to
| make it fashionable. but there Is no
| appeal from the popularity of velour.
This fabric has been immensely i'm
that ran threadbare under the least
rough usage. Today il stands KNOCKING
/ about with the gabardines and serges.
and its dyeing has also been so perfect
! ed that one gets the richest shades OF
the winter in il.
Blue for some underlying reason
| that we can't fathom. does net hofd its
place except with u few exceedingly
| smart designers. and the preference Ia
given to deep tones of red that nearly
every woman can find it in her heart tn
wear. -
Bordeaux, with its twin sister shade.
Burgundy is sought by the exclusives.
as well as by those who only want Z.
warm shade on cold day. Bottle grceu
! and several tones of brown, such as
| copper, bronze, Havana. are taken up
| by hundreds. There are more daring
| experiments with green than with the
! an who can carry of this color is 80
proud of the fact that she fiaunts' her
I superiority in the face of the public
| whenever she can. ''-t-'-
| Whatever else is insisted upon in the
| new tailored suits il does not receive
the emphasis that is placed upon the
ciinging effect of the skirt. The woman
who wears a skirt that spreads out
from the hips or the feet proclairrs
are again discarded. The skirt lining
/ is of soft satin instead of taffeta- That
| is why velour is preferred to other fab
RIGS; 1t swirls into the figure instead
| of away from il. There is no trimming
| on any of the newest skirts, unless it
| be fanciful stitching, and the best
! suits show this method of adornment.
which came into fashion a year ago
and was quickly abandoned.