Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-09-22


bought new gown on the merit of
the sleeve; in fact, one seldom
thought anything about that part of
gown, and in evening gowns they
were non-existent.
But now sleeves have come to the
front. and from Paris especially we
are receiving enough inspiration in
the way of new sleeves to make up
for the lack of definite decision in
other directions.
Next to the line of well-turned
collar worn by woman with a
graceful neck there is no line in
woman's dress that possesses more
possibilities than the line of we'll
designed sleeve and a graceful wrist
No one ever knew this better than
Sarah Bernhardt, who has always
spent much thought on the fit of her
sleeves and their arrangement about
the hand. French women usually pay
much more attention to this detail of
dress than do American women, who
spend no end of thought in having
the skirt and neck line of new
gown fitted to perfection and let the
sleeves go with almost no alterations
at all.
But now the sleeve is coming into
its own, and the sleeves and cuffs on
the new gowns will really command
more consideration than this. For
they are built in such wise that they
must fit to be attractive, and they
must be fitted more carefully than
any other part of the new gowns.
In gowns and waists the sleeve is
usually long with well-fitted cuff
portion. In coats and many suits
the sleeve, narrow midway below
the elbow, flares at the hand Direc-
toire fashion, thus giving a tempting
glimpse of the well-httcd waist sleeve
beneath.
At the shoulder many of the
sleeves show surprising amount of
fullness. Leg O mutton sleeves are
even seen in many of the new de-
signs, and there are puffs and frills
and ruffes galore. In evening gowns
the sleeve is sometimes merely an
exaggerated puff introduced at the
arm hole, though, of course, the
sleeveless evening gown still has a
certain claim on the attention of the
woman with matchless arms.
Fur Is Everywhere.
Even on blouses made Of spider
web textures-voiles and nets and
laccs-wc shall soon have fur trim
ming. Some times the fur is in the
guise of cuff and some times as a
point or banding above the elbow.
A good many practically inclined
and economical women last year re-
sisted the temptation of buying suits
or coats with fur trimming, feeling
that fur would be "all out" very soon
and that a fur-trimmed garment
would become extremely out of date
by the time a second season had
come. This was commendable eau
ton, to be sure, for it did seem last
winter that the fur craze was burn
ing itself out. But, as matter OF
fact, fur is even more apparent now
than ever, and it is worn in a dozen
ways that no one dreamed of last
winter.
Fur-trimmed sweaters are decided
ly characteristic of the coming au-
tumn and skating costumes made
sweater fashion of wool will show
| extensive fur trimming on the collar,
and there will be matching woolen
skirts also banded by fur to go with
them.
Miliiners have thought of dozen
new ways of making fur attractive
on hats and designers of gowns are
using it extensively in trimming event
ing gowns. With silver and pearl
trimming short gray fur is used
very effectively on some of the most
dazzling of evening gowns.
But the fur of this season Is OF
better quality than the fur of last
year. Fortunately perhaps for the
back yard cat, whose lot we arc told
was so hazardous last winter, women
of fashion are demanding and pay
ing for better fur than was the case
year ago.
Accessories to Match.
There will be tendency this win
ter to wear hats trimmed with the
same kind of fur that the collar and
muff is made of. There never has
been anything very attractive about
combining various sorts of fur in one
get-up-white fox and sealskin or