The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-04-13
THE ROSE GARDEN

In planting roses select site that IS protected from strong winds in early spring and summer; but avoid plant ing under big trees as too much shade will not give good results, and the roots of the threes are detrimental to rose growth.
 The ideal location is south to southeast exposure where they can have the sun for at least two thirds of the day.
 Any good garden sofI will do for roses, provided it is well drained. The fall is the best time to prepare the ground; spade in a liberal coating of stable manure, and let stand rough all winter, as soon as the ground is fit to work in the spring the soil can be broken down with a digging fork and well raked and made ready to plant.
 Planting
 The spring is the best time to plant roses, and two year old field grown plants are the best
 In planting be sure that you plant deep enough to cover the bud or graft junction at least two but not more than three inches, bear in mind that deep planting is one of the most essential things in rose growing; make a good wide hole and place the plant in posi- ton in the center, then spread the roots so that they do not cross one another, sprinkle some fine loamt on top and work it in between them, then fill in the hole, tamping down tT1e earth with your foot or stick making sure the plant is firm. The distance between tpe plants depends on the va rieties, Hybrid PerpetuaIs, take about two feet apart each way, the Teas, and Hybrid Teas, from eighteen inches to two feet, stronger growing varieties a little more. The plants should be cut down to within two or three inches of the ground after planting.
 Pruning
 Pruning is one of the most impor- tant parts of rose culture; and the best time to prune is in spring after the frost is out of the ground and the buds begin to swell, in pruning Hybrid Per petuaIs, first cut out all dead and weak. wood leaving only strong heal thy canes. cut these back to five or six buds, if weak growing varieties cut a little closer, Teas, ad Hybrid Teas, require about the same treat ment. only a little more severe cutting back; say two or three buds.
 Climbing roses require practically no pruning except to cut away all the dead wood, and any other you may think necessary to prevent crowding.
 Cultivation
 As soon as the frost is out of the ground, remove the covering that pro tected the plants all winter, and if stable manure was used the rough straw can be raked off and the fine litter forked into the ground along with some bone meal and wood ashes, but be careful not to dig too deep or you may injure the roots of the plants, as the season advances see that the ground is kept cultivated and all weeds kept down, and if the season is very dry see that the plants get plenty of water. When watering be sure to give enough to soak the ground well, and cultivate the next day so as to make a mulch on. the surface to keep the moisture in the soil.
 Insects and Diseases
 stGreen fly or ..aphis," can be con- trolled by spraying with any one of the nicotine extracts sold by seed stores. These are most convenient to use, but a good home mixture can be made by taking 1 ounce Blackleaf, 40 to 50 gallons of water, to which can be added about 1-2 pound soft soap, or ivory soap. The spraying must be very thorough to be successful only those touched by the spray are killed.
 For the Rose Chafer' little can be done except to go over the plants and pick them off, and drop them into a dish of Kerosene.
 The only remedy for Red Spider" is frequent spraying of the foliage with water through a hose, the higher the pressure the better the results.
 For "NIi1dew,'' dust the foliage with flowers of sulphur, applying when the dew is on the plants. Another remedy is a solution of sulphide of potassium made as follows: take one half cake of ivory soap and dissolve in boiling water, at the same time dissolve one quarter ounce sulphide of potassium in one gallon of water, add the soap and -stG thoroughly. apply with a spray Rump.-Horticultura Dept. G. w. FRAZER,
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