davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

material with the: selvage or straight
side and piece on, using a one-half
inch seam, press this seam open,
dampening first, then pin down the
remainder of pattern and finish
cutting.
While your cloth is still laid IN
the fold place the part of the collar
marked with three crosses or that
fold, pin pattern as before and cut.
Before cutting the remainder of the
garment the material must be opened
out full width and the two cut ends
placed together. care being taken to
have the right side Of the material
facing inside, .(most all wooden and
silkS=material have the right side
folded inside, but one should be
sure Of this before cutting,. Pin your
goods together very carefully, smooth
ing out all creases with the hand
before inserting pins.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

be extensively used both TOR gowns
and for street costumes. On the street
we shall wear also q great many suits
made Of silk combined with wool. We
shall see the cape idea developed in :
thousand interesting z'2-s
A very handsome coat suit that Is ~
90 to Florida during January is made
Of banana colored silk with cloth.
The skirt is gracefully full with a panel
OF the cloth at each side. 1t is laid in
an inverted plat and extended to form
a short band around the lower edo-.
At the front and at the back silk Is tn
material and there is y short tuntr
Of the silk which extends lust a lev
inches below the Jacket. The coat =
Of the tailored sort but the belt -
formed by ribbon inserted in a casin.
and drawn IN to form shirrings. u
buttoned right up to the neck with ,
high collar that Is finished with ,
haring frill. and the sleeves are cut IN
one with it in kimono STYLE Finished
at the elbows with circular ruf1es
These ruf1es, the Jacket. the perlnr
and the lower edge Of the skirt all ar'
cut in big scallops and bound with six
A very handsome bolero Gesture I.
Of blue serge with faille. Tho short
skirt is very full with a drapei arrr,
over skirt. The bolero is Of the ser-'
with silk sleeves and deep silk cuffs T',r
sleeves are in leo Of mutton stvle. tn
collar forms a good effect at the ha-',
which is Of silk edged with = fcl1 !.
serge. The vest is Of silk emhroi1e-rl
and it extends, below the 'ackci
reveal this last feature.
There are all sorts ri nov ties
sorts Of interesting combinations -"
all sorts, Of new features cver WI
to chat AMI to discuss. Tho suits
two materials are han lsome and
hlouses 70 go with thc-, ore ne
Net made in tailored style +. y
nortant denartnre. A handsor.,."
is buttoned RIGHT IN to tho nc-h
ished with y rolled ove eoi'ar an1 o..
sleevec. The edges ar" af s';'for"
and the sleeves are sliahtlv "re'' a.
cuffs ! IN handkerchief dr,,erv.. hut y
a simyle blouse. and shows the
~tinctivc tailored touch. N''ias-'
effects have appeared in net as
fascinating French blouse is !. adr VA
the characteristic simplicity II
military styles, and with knoll N"tt
holding it is place! IT is Of the,ne' -
worn with a four-in-hand tie
exactly suits it's SIMPLICITY. Wits net
treated in such ways with silk 80.
vcrted to other odd uses and with CO.,
and serges adapted to most ir,n'rtan:
costumes and with cotton glorifed 70
have indeed a season ct opportunI1
before us, a season Of interest and a
season of charm.
Skirts will flare and fare abundant!v.
Every known devi,e is being used @
bring about that effect: Circular
skirts in which plaits are inserted Ire
, shown, box plated skirts thar are Hat
below the hips and aaring freely at the
lower edge are seen, and the faring
circular skirts that fall in what we
once called sodets, are. conspicuous.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

For yoke apply material over fronts
and back above perforations, and ar
range straps over fronts, straight
edges under edges of yoke. Turn
shaped edges up a. illustrated and
attach with buttons. Turn front
edges under on perforations for hens.
Turn pockets over on perforations.
Close shoulder and under-arm seams.
Join collar to neck edge. Arrange
trimming straps owe sleeves, notches
meeting. Close sleeve seams and
place in arm's-eyes, notches meeting,
single perforations at shoulder seams.
Finish belt and arrange. over waist
line. tack to position at under-arn
seams. Lap right side Of front over
eft, large rerforations meeting. Stitch
to position below double ~perforations
and close latove with buttons or but
tonholes or in any manner preferred.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

The back of the dress will be cut
first, 80 pin just the length you will
need for the cutting Of this piece.
The back piece Of your pattern is
perforated with the letter B. On the
center back of this you will find three
crosses which signify that this shall
be placed on the fold of goods, be
very careful to lay exactly on the
edge of the fold; now pin your pat
tern securely to the material and
cut at the very edge Of the pattern:
cut your notches. In
A piecing will be necessary on the
side of the back at the lower edge,
do this by taking a piece Of the
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

Fit the parts marked A. D, E and
L on the material so that they will
be on the straight Of goods as symbols
call for. and also place SO to cut with
the greatest saving of material Cut
all OF these pieces, using extreme rare
to cut close to the edge Of the pattern.
After cutting all notches and before
removing the pattern, each and every
piece must have tailor tacks placed
where the basting line perforations
are, the yoke line marks. where pockets
90 and the center front and back lines,
different colored thread may be used
for the different markings, such as
red for center lines. blue for pocket.
position and so on.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18
s'HOW TO MAKE A ONE-PIECE
u DRESS TOLD 7

In putting a garment together,
great care must be taken to match
all notches; when care is taken at
this stage the gown can prove only q
success. =
The smaller diagram Of the two
Illustrated will show you how these
notches are placed together.
Each notch is numbered and the
corresponding numbers show where
the different pieces of the garment
are joined together.
The lesson for this dress is given for
the cutting of material forty-four
inches wide (the average width Of the
material mentioned as suitable for
this pattern.) ..~g, i.
All WOODEN goods should be thor
oughly shrunken before any attempt
IS made at cutting. u. ~.
Particular attention must be given
to this; as neglect OF shrinking will
often times ruin a dress by leaving
marks Of pressing and waite. stains.
Examine your material and ascer-
tain if it has a nap, up and down, and
if it casts different shades when the
material is held with one length run
ming up and the other down.
Poplins and serges leave no nap or
up and down. broadcloth has and must
be cut with the nap running down on
all pieces, velvet and velveteen both
have a nap, but must be cut Just the
reverse from broadcloth. they must
have the nap going up to give them
more lustre and SO that they will. shed
dust. X l'tSF
We are now ready Tor the actual
cutting Of the garment. 5ssSE
Lay the material out on the table.
and place several rows of pins through.
it to hold in place and prevent slipping.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

EtwG.-EEEEra LIZ
This dress is designed especially for
misses and small women, it will prove
good looking and serviceable whether
developed in poplin, serge or broad
cloth. 1t would be attractive to have
the collar, belt, pockets and sleeve
trimmings OF a contrasting color OF
shade from the dress itself.
Before cutting your material, study
your pattern carefully in all of its
details, also the illustrated diagram
included with the pattern. Study
the symbols. these tell you what
parts are to be laid on the fold Of
goods, which ones on the straight
Of goods, etc. The pattern has to
be laid on differently for different
width Of material.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

For the coat suit a great many inter-
4 esting materials are to be found. Serge
and gabardine are the favorites. Broad
cloth is to be much used, poplin is
greatly in vogue and there are a great
many silks that are quite youthful
enough for girls and which are in every
way desirable for small women. eros
de Londres is a pronounced favorite.
1t shows atiny rib that differentiates
it from taffeta while it IS much the
same in weight. Poplin suitings are
to be found in all silk, in mixture of
silk and wool and in all wool and the
weave is fashionable whatever the
material. Also a great many costumes
will be made Of two materials, silk with
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

Take the piece of your pattern.
marked F (Which is the front). and
lay the side with the large. round per-
torations on the sewage Of the ma
terial with the wide or bottom part
Of the pattern at the open ends of the
material.
! The portion marked S (the sleeve)
IL next pinned on with the line of large
p%errfoorations. being placed parallel with
the sewage. Lay this sleeve portion
yon material where the widest part re-
mains or opposite the upper part o: the
front. 0#
Pattern No. s7s3 Laid on Material ~
Inchss Wide. Materials of Other Widths
will Requi1A Different Layouts.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

The long coat shows a wide belt and
patch pockets, and these are two i'm
portant features Of the spring fashions.
The coat suits illustrate the favor Of
the cton and also Of the loose jacket
with wide sleeves; They are charming
costumes one Of which is madeof gabar-
dine with bands Of satin while the
other is made Of checked serge with
Just a bit of velvet on the collar. The
sports costume shows a Goa of striped
glove silk with a three-piece skirt, the
front edges Of which are Tapped. The
model is a smart one for outings Of all
sorts, becoming, girl-like and attract
i've and can be utilized throughout the
entire season. eg.s sa.E %
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18
DRESS

7-HIS is the time of year when
the wardrobe must be given close
attention.
IL Is most essential that one should
be properly clad for all occasions.
therefore, before selecting a gown
give careful thought to the occasion
Tor which it is to be worn, the kinds
d. material best suited and the style
and color which will be most becoming
to you.
Pictured is an exceptionally smart
and comfortable dress for the present
season. q
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18
HINTS FOR
T HE HO ME
NEEDLE
WOMAN
HOW TO EMBROIDER A PILLOW
CASE IN ENVELOPE STYLE"

THE scalloped edges are to be.
padded and buttonholed. The
4 ribbon is to be worked solidly or
in outline stitch. The leaves, flowers
and dots may be worked either solidly
or as eyelets. The stems are to be
outlined. Any initial can be used.
To make the case cut a strip thirty
one inches wide by sixty-one inches
long, fold to form a flap sixteen inches
deep with a case twenty-five and one
half inches in depth, Transfer the de-
sign and work the scallops at the sides
of the case through the two thicknesses.'
ssEs. n. ,...- .1..... sE7g
. ,y.ee.r ~ 9e, ..a~ r.ll.&o
DESIGN FOR EMBROIDERING
AN INFANTS SHEET AND
PILLOW CASE,
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18
~~:AAx ;s$"~
r. &xF =

THE scalloped edges are to be
padded and buttonholed. The
leaves, flowers and dots may be
worked solidly, as eyelets or in a COM
bination OF the two. The stems are to
be outlined. The centers are to be
worked solidly.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

coming fashions are very
ing, very attractive in line,
full and very generally be-
And there Is a certain youth
Apparent which renders them
nv desirable for thes younger
Or gent.
- the illustration are shown excel
Nv models. There is a long coat
is useful for travelling and for
--toring and for different occasions,
LtYnen it Is desirable to cover the frock
beneath. There are two street suits
and q costume showing one of the
. p~rettiest Developments Of the sports
coat, which is used not alone for
sports but for many other occasions.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18
SIMPLE IMP F7]REyO,CKS FOR GIRLS

7 YERE is one OF the newest and
smartest little frocks to, be made
1 from washable materials. 1t Is
such a simple frock that It IS e.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

peciaIly adapted to their
use for it can be wash
ed and ironed without
the least difficulty. II is
essentially smart and It
is distinctly novel. The
belt is passed through
openings cut tor the
purpose and arranged
below the waist line.
and below it are pock-
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

cts with prettily-
shaped upper edges.
The material illus
trated is striped galatea
trimmed with plain,
but it would be easy
to copy this dress in
linen or in piqus Or in
Bingham or in any
similar material and it
can OF course be util.
lied for the wool ma.
terials. Pink or blue
linen with the trim
ming OF white seal
loped as it is here
would be charming.
The new ginghams are
fascinating in colors
and designs. Plaid
Bingham with the trim
ming Of a plain always
makes a good effect.
No faati,ro az thu
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-18

new fashions is more interesting than
the persistency of the over-bodice idea.
Here is a charming dress for the school
girls which shows that feature most
a%ttractively used. On the figure the
skirt is made from embroidered
1ouncing.
The sun., 1916-09-02
SUIT OVER SOCIETY PHOTOS.
Fifth Avenue Photographer says
His Negatives Were stolen.

Charged with selling copies Of photo
graphs of persons prominent In society
that were printed from stolen negatives.
Adolln Blank and George Stollcr. .
West Foriy-seventh street. were brought
to forkville court yesterday on "A sum
mons obtained by Aram Kazanjian. a
photographer OF 107 Fifth avenue.
kazanj!an said that he and Stoller
were once in partnership, and that when
they separated he bought the rights 10
all the negatives in the firms possession
Many OF these negatives were stolen by
m employee. he said. and turned over
to Blank II Stoller Kazanjian said
that Blank and Stollcr's agents have
been selling them In L.cnox and other
sum~>ar places for s. each.
kazanjian exhibited letters from Mrs
George W. Folsom. Mrs. John T.. Par,
sons. Mrs. Frank A. Nanderlip. Mrs
John T., Alexandra. Mrs. Alfred q. Van.
derbilt and others protesting against III,
public sale Of their pictures. Blank anc
Stoller said they had a right to III,
negatives under their old contract, =,
the case was adjourned to September :
The sun., 1916-09-02
VERA CRUZ LANDING
AIMED AT HUERTA
Object to Crush Him, Not Com
pei Salute to Flag. Demo-
Gratis Assert.

That President Wilson sent troops to
Vera Cruz not to compel n salute from
Huerta but to crush the latter's power.
IL one OF the points upon which en-
phasis is laid In the Mexican chapter Of
the Democratic campaign textbook. is
Presidents Mexican policy the book
says:
1T should be remembered that always
In the Presidents mind there had been
reservations as to the extent Of the sac
riices which the United States Gov
eminent could make in order to avoid
armed clashes with one OF the Offend
Ing Mexican factions. The purpose be-
hind the Vera Cruz expedition was much
the same as hat IN the Presidents
mind later when he ordered Gen.
Pershing to lead ar expeditionary force
into northern Mexico to break up the
Villists faction. which was behind the
Columbus raid.
"In both cases the President felt him
self eminently justified In utilizing the
power Of the United States In crushing
the faction of M%exicans who were de-
liberately and with sinister designs en-
gagged In the commission Of intolerable
wrongs against the United States.
THE American forces were not
sent into Vera Cruz to compel a
salut Of the American flag. When
Huerta refused the Presidents ulti-
matum hi created a need that more
complete reparation be given for his Of
fences. That was the sort Of reparation
which the President was intent upon pro-
curing. In a word 1t was TO break the
waning power OF the dictator and to
bring his bloody reign to an end. since
In no other way could normal interna-
tional relations be restored"
The sun., 1916-09-02
MYSTERY IN CALL FROM SEA.
ship, Possibly Naval Vessel. in Dis
tress In Cuban Waters.

WASHINGTON. Sept. THE Navy De-
partment Is making efforts tonight to
locate a ship in distress somewhere In
the vicinity OF Cuba The wave-length
of her last wireless call for help !ndi-
Gates tina she is either a nava craft or a
recently built steamer.
The call for help. which was picked
UP shortly after s o'clock this morning.
gave no clue as to the location OF the
shin In distress. The steamer Alliance
OF the Panama Railway Line. and the
steamer Zacapa received the call while
some two hundred miles north of Cr!s-
tobaI. The message indicated dire dis
tress and flashed. something which was
recorded as y. y. O. Then there was
silence and all efforts to resume wireless
exchanges failed.
Admiral Benson. chief Of naval opera
tions, directed to-day that a call be sent
out broadcast from Guantanamo, Cuba.
To all vessels in the vicinity to keep IA
sharp lookout for the ship. a severe
tropical storm has been raging there.
The sun., 1916-09-02
BRITISH EXULTANT.
Mig Chang~ In whole War situa-
ton Seen in RumaniR's Action.
specia. cable Despatch 10 THE Sun

LONDON. Sept. Opinion 81 ali kinds
here seems agreed that the entry OF Ru-
mania into the war and the rapid and
vigorous offensive on the rev 400 mile
front spell success for the Allies at an
earlier date n n had been hoped.
The Daily Telegraph ascribes To high
authorities OF the Foreisn office the
opinion thai the outlook has been COM
ple,ely changed in the past forty-e!ght
hours. The rapid development OF the
Balkan situation has surpassed all ex-
pcctatlons. II says. and ~ proceeding NJ
such a rate in favor of the Allies that
the most important consequences may
arrive ir a far shorter time han was
expected.
All Information IN Government cir
cles shows how careful and complete
were Rumania's plans and preparations
for her campaign and how promptly she
carried them out. The Daily Mail learns
that Rumania has complete mastery OF
the Danube
German newspaper comment upon Ru-
mania's action Is contradictory. Some
papers betray anger and alarm. while
others profess indifference and uncon-
Germ. saying that Rumania has COM
mittcd national suicide. Several papers
which nave always maintained that Eu-
mania never would join the Entente now
say they expected it all along
The sun., 1916-09-02
REDFIELD IN
Replies 70 Hughes's CHARGE o.
Playing Politics In once.

~ ObhSG
PORTLAND. Me-. Sept. William C.
Redheld. Secretary of Commerce. to-
night replied to the charges of Charles
r. Hughes that appointments to the
posts of Director of Census and SUPER
intendent Of the Coast and Geodetic Sur
vey had been made for political reasons
without regard to the efficiency OF the
service. 1t is proper. he said. that an
Administration should render an account
OF Its work and that the Department OF
Commerce welcomed the most searching
inquiry and the fullest publicity.
The Republican candidate at the out
set" he said. mad a criticism OF two
appointments In the Department Of
Commerce. alleging in substance that
they were the replacing OF effective.
scientific men with political appointees.
The incident. trifiing in Itself. however.
shows that the candidate is willing 10
snatch at any straw and without inquiry
make baseless assertions affecting the
fitness ard worth Of honorable gentle
men whom the open records show to be
efficient and loyal public servants
The census work. he said, was found
10 be so much beh!nd that the large ex-
penditures upon much Of II were wasted.
Soon after Mr.. Harris succeeded Mr..
Durand as Director of the Census" Sec
rotary Redield said. "he found the work
in such backward condition that he
called In to assist him ar expert COM
mission. consisting of four Republicans
md one Democrat. This expert commit
tee reported that although three and
one-half years have now elapsed since
the enumeration. much OF the Thirteenth
Census work is still uncompleted.' Who
ever Is disposed to urge the claims of
Mr.. Durand as al able administrator is
recommended TO read the roper. CO the
above anne committee"
The sun., 1916-09-02
TEUT0N LINE Is SMASHED.
berlin Admits Russian victory In
New Lemberg Drive.

~PETRoGRAD, Sept. 1.-The Russian
drive for Lemberg has been renewed with
great fury and with success. TIL Ger
mans officially admit Russian gains in
an attack aimed at Halicz. the key to
Leg,berg.
In a single days fierce lighting on the
eastern front yesterday the Russians
took 1890 Teuton prisoners. Of whom
2.4O0 were Germans, and six cannon and
ffty-fve machine guns.
The hottest fighting was on a sixteen
mile front In Gal.cia. between the Zlota
Lipa and the Dnicster. near Neouw, the
part Of the front nearest to Halicx. The
Russian statement says fighting IL still
going on there. and the German state
ment. telegraphed here. admits the Ger
mans gave way in the southwestern part
Of this line.
Major-Gen. Mikitin. Russian division
commander. was killed to-day by a bull
let In the head while inspecting trenches
near the village Of Labusy. six miles
southeast Of Baranovichi.
The sun., 1916-09-02
PUSH ON.
In Cooperation with Russian ms Men.
G Austrian Second Line.

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- ~. "'o.'u. WV !.
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The sun., 1916-09-02
SEABURY FOR OPEN FIGHT.
TO Exclude whitman From

Judge Samuel Seabury has declined TO
approve 81 the attempt being made to
exclude Gov, Whitman from the lnde-
p%endence Icagre primary on the ground
OF fraudulent names on his petition. In
a telegram given out at his headquarters
Yesterday, Judge Seabury SAID, assuming
the objection made 10 the Whitman petit
ton was a good one. he hoped II would
Ice Withdrawn. and added
Il have no desire to be rid OF an
opponent In the league primary by
reason Of q legal t""hnicality. I am
heartily in favor Of the direct primary.
n the present law Is So technical that
Il is dlfiicul, to avoid mistakes in COM
plying with II. II therefore you are IN
favor Of my candidacy | request that
you withdraw this legal objection. 80
that enrolled voters may make n free
choice between Gov. Whitman and my
SELF
II was announced yesterday that 4
Seahury primary committee Of Hughes
ProIressives had been formed. with As
semblyman Hamilton Fish. Jr.. as chair
man Philip Roosevelt Of Oyster Bay as
secretary, and Charles s. Aronstam Of
Brooklyn. treasurer. Nineteen counties
are represented.
The sun., 1916-09-02

the Turks. The enemy suffered severe
losses. In the region OF Ognott we
captured prisoners and three machine
guns.
ROME. Sept. THE official bulletin
by the Italian war Office says:
In the Val Campelle. between
Phima Lunetta and Malaga Cenone.
our troops counter attacked and
drove back the enemy. who left sew
eral hundred dead as well as thirty
five prisoners in our hands. In h
upper Dogma Valley there was hostile
heavy artillery fire.
In Albania during the morning OF
August 80 our composite column occu-
pied Tepelemni. on the Noyusa. after
n rapid march over very difficult
ground. The Greek garrison with
drew. At the same time d~etachments
OF Bersaglieri made a feint on h
enemy's position on Monte Gradist
and Monte Trubes. on the right bank
OF the Noyusa.