Tulsa daily world. [volume] (Tulsa, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1905-1919, 1916-12-31

THlS is the time FOR an inventory
i on fashions. Before the new
year starts tonight, it is we'll to look
over the field of clothes and see what
Is worn out. make up our minds as
TO what is worth keeping, get o good
idea of what is necessary TO discard
and take glimpse into the iLlmedi-
ate future to see what France has
sent us for 1917.
inventories are not discussions
Commerce is not often given to phil
osophy. The psychology of clothes
has nothing to do with stock taking.
Good resolutions made for the new
year, and bad resolutions broken for
~the old year, demand few words and
speedy phrasing. Therefore the mar
rative of this morning will be given
over to photographic Information, as
far as it is possible for writer with
wandering pen to stick to the mar
row path of information.
10 begin with hats:
No tilt is considered fashi Dnabe.
There are women who refuse 20 ad-
here to the new law of military Sc
verify in line that goes straight
across the forehead and above The
ears; they argue that their features,
their expression and their general ap-
this new law of fashion. That, how
ever does not change the fact.
The correct pose of the hat whcth-
er II is large or small simple or or
nate. is straight on the head. II GOV.
ers the forehead. II merely discloscs
the eyebrows, but it does not lover
the top of the ears. If IL is a turhan,
1t must not slide down in the back
to the nape of the neck; 1t must not
look as tho it had been pulled on at
the last moment, after one had start
ed downstairs.
Whatever the hat does above the
headband is of no concern to the
headband itself. It's mission in fash
ion is 10 cling TO the head as closely
as a soldiers cap. II must show what
ever is possible of the hair at :he ears
and the back but the straight line
around the head must be kept at all
costs. =
SO much for the pose, which the
French say is the main point in any
hat, as ii should be. Every woman
is quite capable of running tho entire
expression of her face by changing
the pose of her hat for an eighth of
an inch America has had difficulty
In grasping this fact France has
known 1t for ten centuries,
As for shape, the hats that have
succeeded are the Russian turbars
una lne Wlut-btlillilltu Stlll'l WIN
an edge that curves with the grace
of a seagul's wings, and soft, col
lapsible crown also, the elaborate
hat of tulle which has a brim That
dips slightly down in front in order
that the eyes may look thru II.
There is no evidence, coming OT 60
ing, of hats that perch high or the
head, that show any glimpse OF hair
on the forehead or that call for any
coiffure that is not sleek, slightly
curled, if at all. and brought down
low on the forehead
The collapsible crown is almost
necessity. There are few hats with
out it. It Is the artistic compromise
between the round, low crown of
1914 and the high stiff crown OF
4 1915. few of the young and dar-
y ing set were able to carry off the pot
! hat of the Eton schoolboy and the
moro graceful version of II worn by
Robespierre but the majority could
not stand the height or the severity
of this piece of millinery.
Today. to keep in accordance WITH
the street costumes of the women
that have been borrowed from mems
costumes in the end of the eighteenth
and first part of the nineteenth CEN
fury, lhere has come about the Beau
Brummel hat with its curVing hE.m
and its silky crown that spreads Wide
at the sides. This Is worn well down
over the face, and II seems odd TO
bee pair of enormous earrings
plnccd beneath its curving brim as
ono does see when the hat It worn
by smart women.
The materials that will be kept for
1917 are panne velvet silk beaver.
embroidered tulle and pliable fur.
The Muscovite turban has brought
about an immense jeweled design IN
,A1nraI StnnnS nln cod
in front
Emphasis on the Medieval.
There is no chance that medieval
ism will disappear from the new
Gowns Every evidence impresses one
more deeply that medieval gowns Will
grow in fashion and even become
more eccentric In tl.ei workmanship
as spring advances. Straight lhes
from shoulder to heels are sought by
most of the welldressed women IN
the country. .
The belt at the normal waistllne Is
rnrelv seen. except between white
hIouse and n tailored skirt. The belts
that are put on outside blouses ana
nicce frocks are sometimes placed
Mt the normal line, but they are loose
ornamental and do not attempt "a
hold in the material beneath
The one-piece frock is still running
n deadly rivalry against the coat ana
skirt and the manufacturers -oi
clothes say that 1t Is winning every
week Fur coats, as well as LONG
cloth coats with lavish fur trimming
"a aro really responsible for the parity
successful boycott of the tailored suit
Women have taken up the top Goa
with so much eagerness tfat they are
Willing to throw aside any other gar
ment that keeps them from wearlns