The sun., 1916-10-08
By ELEANOR HoYT BRAINERD.

|HE first s%prinkling of autumn
models from the French houses
was slightly Disappointing.
Things were lovely because VI the
lovely materials used for them. but
they seemed. az one captious critic put
it, pretty much of IA muchness.
The first collections shown for the
benefit IF dressmakers and buyers
brought the same sting OF disappoint-
ment, though there were high lights in
the pictures. but now that the story is
All told, one az usual takes of ones
hat To the genius back Of the great
dressmi king houses of Paris. The
Callots were worth waiting for-and
there was waiting to be done. for ven
in war times Cabot Spurs. solidly in
trenched by long years OF great sue
cess. maintain their customary inde-
pendence. an independence verging
on insolence and vastly trying to the
tcmpcrs of buyers.
stake 1t or leave it," That is the
Ca.lot attitude. and unless you can give
the high sign you will not ever have a
chance To take IT,"
Well. the artistic temperament must
he taken into consideration even where
It trays the edges OF the business
temperament. and though each year
many buyers rage and imagine vain
things. they usually go back and pay
Cabot prices and submit to Cabot con-
ditions. for they are artists. the Cal
lots. and To return to our muttons,
their gowns are worth waiting for
and paying for.
In n big department store IN lower
Broadway there is. since the coming
of the Cal,ots and some late Lanvin
and Bul'o2 models. n collection Of inn
ported frocks and costumes that has
prodded our rather ~perfunctory inter
est into fcrvid enthusiasm. II ie n
pleasure to write about that collec-
ton. Almost one could w.e.d the
dithyrambic pen OF tho Partisan Jour-
nalist who tries to 10 Justice to the
fashions of the moment.
For her. is what one expects OF
Paris and does not always get. Thu
models are many. hut remarkably vel
SeltCIPu. ana u sur VI tSlUElN ldTEt per-
cen,agc hear the unmistakable Pa
risian stamp. which is more han one
can say OF many importations carry
ing famous French m
Cabot and l.anvin head the list. with
Bulloz II good third. Each Of these
three houses is represented by many
models. and practically all Of the num-
bers have unusual originality ant
charm.
Cabot ~ course tx Of the old guard
but never clings SO fast to tradition
that she IL not ready with new idea.
for each season. Lanvin. starting will
extraordinary success in tho drcssini
Of Partisan children. has in a yer,
short time worked into the first ranl
of French drcssmakcrs. hut retains
youthful flavor that would limit he
clientele were not all women deter
minedly youthful nowadays. Bullo2
trained by the famous Beer and re
yarded by that erratic but successful
artist in clothes as his successor. lef
the house Of Beer after one or Nv,
successful seasons for "A gorgeou
Champs Elysees house ~ Bulloz, bu
left the Champs Elyt',. Establishment
eve more hastily.
He has the artistic temperament 1
pronounced form. has Monsieur Bullo:
hut he has the artistic t. 80 ga "a wit
II. There. were seasons hon Il won
dered where his cary ~ mis- ha
gone. hut those were tn ,spas whc
Bulloz did not mean Bal r> Now h
ir hack in tho old neighhorh" Il and
This autumn's showing il . 'e iruste
he will hay In be rcckunr! with /
discussing the great hos = %. tn
coming decade.
Huw e. describe = tallot" The pal
,of wisdom IL not 10 attempt Il "criI
ton. So much depends upon uuanCe
Of color, suhtletics Of line, ,Nuui.!t
textures. There is a wonderful. hlac
and gold brucade Cabot evening COW
that has a bodice Of gold lice owe
palest pink chiffon, "A petticoat of lilac
Chant!lly lace over the pink, the mo-
graceful Of draperics and train !
gorgeous broCade-a typical call,
evening gown.
But s.dc by side with il is Callot
Egyptian gown, straight and clingi,