The Monticellonian., 1916-10-12

! sea. n distance of more than LOO
miles hut the portion het1een kokand
and Andijan is without interest for
the traveller except for occasional
views of SnOw-coyered mountains on
| the Chinese frontier. But on leaving
| Kokand for the trip To the Caspian.
we leave the newer cities of the RuS-
sian occupation and enter regions of
old civilization and historic and
archaeological interest After dusty
journey through nnwatered plains We
reached the old and delightful city of
Samarkand, known 10 all students as
| one of the outlying seats of Greek cui-
| ture. The present town of Samnrkand
| is the third city 10 be erected on prac-
| tically the same spot, although the old
est Greek settlement was laid cut per-
haps three miles from the present site.
There is little to be seen of the place
now except bricks and outlines of
buildings covered for the most part
| deeply in the sand which had drifted
and blown over them for So long.
Bazaars Are interesting.
But Il is not alone for its memories
of the past that Samarkand is interest
ing to the traveller. There is busy
but always sedate and grave business
present in the city. and Il stroll around
the bazaarS is full of surprises. The
streets Of the native town ire only
just wide enough for one carriage at
time. and traffic would be greatly
very few hOrSe-draWn vehicles in the
city. As it is. nearly all freight and
farm products are brought in On cam
els or on donkeys. The latter are the
same sturdy. gray and intelligent lit
tie beasts seen throughout the East
and in Mexico and South America.
They take their duties solemaly and
refuse To be distracted by noise and
confusion. Whole professions of the
little fellows pass through the narrow
ways or stop to be unleaded In front
of the shops, which are nothing more
than platforms built at the side of the
street and surrounded with shelves for
merchandise. Some of the streets in
the bazaar are so narrow that they
are like corridors in building and
are covered from the houses on each
side by arched roofs, So that one can
walk around and keep dry even in the
hardest rain.
On all sides there sit. gravely sip
ping their endless cups of tea and
eating sweetmeats and dried fruits, the
dark-faeed merchants, many of them
with long boards dyed red and with
green turbans. showing that they have
made the long holy pilgrimage To
Mecca. The brilliance and charm of
the scene are extraordinary. Men and
women are clad in long, flowing gowns
of the brightest silks in startling but
always harmonious combinations-yel-
low. red, blue, and green.
Not infrequentiy the little streets
are dwarfed by the appearance Of IA
long string of camels bringing huge
bales of cotton or the heavier kinds
of freight from the country districts
These animals are picturesque. but So
stupid and vicious that they have To
be tied in "a long line with one of
the intelligent little donkeys in front
TO show them where to GO.
The next city of Importance on the
line of the railway TN the way to
Krasnovodsk is Bokhara The old his
toric town is some five miles from the
railroad, with which il is connected
by branch line and by one of the
worst carriage roads | have ever been
! over.
New Bokhara or kagan is the seat
of II Russian political agent, who is
the representative of the imperial gov
eminent at the court of the emir of
Bokhara, the most important native
sovereign of this part of the world
In its way Bokhara is the most in
teresting of all the old cities of Turke-
stan 1t was for centuries celebrated
| as a theological center of Moham-
mechanism.
Does 1t Fit?
A MANS