The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-02-20
SPRING STYLES WANDER NOT 71~ q
FROM PATH OF LATE WINTER
J, ELEANOR HoYr BRAINERD.

uI6 TcII1UteSt pOSSlulllty Va uiS
seeing II. Perhaps that had
something to do with the cffiorescence
Of new materials and models during
the first week Of February.
OF course there's a chance that the
merchants merely grew tired Of try
ing to tempt women with bargains in
mussy and shopworn winter frocks
or furs for which the thermometer
argued no need: but It's pleasanter to
think that those same wise men of
Gotham went through grounding day
in trembling suspense. and when the
invisible sun had set behind murky
clouds shouted: aha! An early
spring! Bargains to the rag bag!
Spring goods to the counters and show
rooms"
Whatever the cause. the effect was
there. The French openings not hav-
ing occurred. though they were close
in the ofilng. a large percentage of the
new February models were of domestic
design: but. here and there an i'm
ported frock fiirted its folds. avant
courier Of things to come later In the
month, and many Of the domestic
models were charming.
This Is not one Of the blind guess
Ing seasons. Novel details. ever nov
experiments in line may come: but.
on the whole, the chances IRE that
spring and summer fashions will
travel the paths the late winter fash
ions have pointed out. We are not yet
through with the full short skirt and
the little fitted bodice. We've more
to say to tho cape collars and the rib
Nm NV{sVn m fnpS and thu hnrSahnir lara
hoops.
The two strongly marked tendencies
are toward the Spanish and the Louis
Seize: but many another influence
makes itself felt. and the day has gone
by when period dressing was an i'm.
operative thing. We may dress in any
period. from early Egyptian to Cubist.
u We but do 1t effectively. though as
tho multitude is always sheeplike and
must needs follow. certain conventional
lines are underscored each season.
Not only that. but daring designers
50 mingle details chronolcgically in
harmonious that II would be a wise
period that would know its own frock.
And what difference does it all
make? As we have said before. n fair
proportion OF the new frocks shown
40 far are charming. and that should
be enough for the critics.
Velvet and fur have faded out of the
shops. Light line and summer stuffs
have taken their places. and once more
the cry OF wolf. wolf ancnt attrac-
tive materials seems to have been UNI
justified. Last year. when in the face
Of seemingly insupcrable obstacles i'm
ported materials maintained their rec
ord, every one said: Wait until next
year." Well. we have waited. and
again foreign looms, in spite Of tire.
mendous odds against them. have SEN
US beautiful things. Just what ths
condition of the wholesale market is
In respect TO these imported stuffs
trimmings, &C., n does not know: bu;
certainly, for the moment, the retail
shops Indicate no dcarth Of supply.
TaHetas are. as the statesmen put II
f.g0ing strong" and though We are tolt
that the supply OF French taffetas is
sadly limited. that news IL not =,
alarming as IL would have t"en a few
years ago. for American silk factories
are turning out Very Creditable things
in tafYetas now--are indeed turning GU
a good deal of the taffeta that you
madam, are buying as the importc,
article. The pussy willow type OF tat
feta Is an American product. too. ant
the newer soiree.
American looms ave woven som'
delightful silks Of the radium sort also
lind some brocades that are we'll ahea'
Tor any previous achievements. though
(when 1t comes to the handsome bro
kcades and novelties we must still yiel'
Nhe pas to Europe and the HUNDREDS
BOf years hat have gone 10 the max
Ting OF her silk Industries.
Striped taffetas of every !mag!nabl
leort-one tone. Two tone, many tone
Regular, irregular, satin and tanet
kNhiffon and taffeta, lowered and plaii
k--are offered in all the modish o!o
Lsnd checked effects, even huge plaids
lin wonderfully h~armonized coloring
follow at a distance.
In Woollen stufYs checks are par
kticularly emphasized. and the shee
!etufs show a good many crOssbar an
lcheck designs, but up to date the SILK
Elean much more heavily towar
letripes.
4 Some OF the simpler striped silks ar
made up into unp~retentious it'll
U1TOCkS tNdt nave Il 'tVu "' y
iemartness in spite of their s!mplici''
land that would be very useful in
ysummer wardrobe. A dark blue an
biscuit stripe, for example, in satin an
staffeta, was used. as indicated in on
sof our small sketches. with no trim
ming save the vest OF biscuit and tn
lband on the skirt bottom. formed G
Overlapping dark blue strips. Til
Handling Of the stripes did the res
land "the rest" was very satisfactory.
Striped models, from h hands {
iAmerican designers, also often IA
because the designer has juggled wit
1.-The stripes too theoretically. The RI
Ssuit Is cut up, suggests a crazy qui
Tor a picture puzzle, cuts the fIgu'
iwhere 4 should not u it. acccntuatt
"a line where il should not accentua'
Ut; but handled sk!lfully the stripe, an
particularly the rather old stripe. hi
~IeXcellent possibilities even in the mo!
inexpensive materials.
The wide. regular stripes in ga
color and white are shown in almo!
every material, from the cheapest
muslins to the most costly Of six
Cotton gabardines, linens, lawn
.voiles. mohairs. marquisettes chiffon
radiums. tafYetas, &c, all show the
stripes, and irregular striped a
rangements are almost as numerou