Pine Bluff daily graphic. (Pine Bluff, Ark.) 1893-1942, 1916-10-15

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as free as possible from disease by
methods that cannot well be followed
during the growing season. It is true
in general that whatever the disease
the affected portions Of the plants
should be cut in the fall and the
shortened bushes sprayed. 1t is as
sumed, however, that spraying will
not have been delayed until fall. but
. will have been carried on as a control
measure at frequent intervals since
spring. The diseased wood removed
in the fall, together with the old
leaves and debris underbrushes, should
be burned. In case of attacks by rust
canker and leaf spots, the diseased
wood or leaves should be removed
and burned even during the growing
season.
For powdery mildew, the control
spraying for the simmer spores
should be with lime sulphur or potas-
SUM sulphid. After cutting back in
the fall, the plants should be sprayed
with lime-sulphur or strong Bor-
deaux mixture. The control sprayings
for rusts should be ammoniacal cop
per carbonate. The fall spraying
should be with strong Bordeaux
mixture.
For leaf spot, leaf blight and an
thracnose, the control sprays may be
either Bordeaux mixture or ammoni-
acal copper carbonate, and the fall
spraying should be with the former.
Leaf Bl0tch.
Leaf blotch, also known as black
spot, is common and very injurious
disease. The first symptoms are the
appearance of irregularly shaped
blackish spots on the upper surface
of nearly full grown leaves. In this
stage the trouble may be controlled
by several sprayings with ammoniacal
copper carbonate or Bordeaux mix
ture, but if these precautions are not
taken another stage Of the gungus
develops in the same spots. The fun
gus in this later stage lives over the
winter on fallen leaves and sets Up
new infection in the spring which
can only be prevented by raking un
and burning the fallen leaves and
spraying the dormant bushes with
strong Bordeaux mixture.
Canker.
Another disease to which roses are
subject is canker, which starts with
the appearance Of small reddish
patches on the green parts generally
Of one-year-old growth. Such infected
areas may increase until the entire
stem is surrounded and may extend
for several inches along the branch.
The only advice to be given is to cut
away vigorously all diseased branches,
and it may be necessary to cut back
entire bushes if badly infected. Cover
the exposed surface made by this cut
ting with paint or tar. This diseased
material must be burned andthe dor
mant bushes sprayed with strong Bor-
deax mixture in both the autumn and
early spring. tss
Propagating BY Cutting.
Climbing roses are propagated
mostly by hardwood cuttings made in
the fall. Many cut flower roses may
be propagated in the same way. Hard
wood cuttings are taken from the dor
mant wood Of winter, while softwood,
or greenwood cuttings are taken
when the plants are in active growth
To make a hardwood cutting, good
strong, well-ripened shoots. of the
past summers growth should be Sc
lected These are better if cut be-
tween the time the leaves fall and
freezing weather. I left until after
cold weather there is danger of in
jury from freezing. They should be
cut into pieces of five Or six inches,
the upper cut just above bud, and
should be tied in bundles with raffia
or with string that does not rot easily
if exposed to dampness.
Aftor 10 ho1iro DIain1v thew ShO11ld
be buried in moist sand, tops down,
and placed in a cool cellar Or buried
in the open ground below danger of
frost. They should be planted in the
open ground in the spring about or a
little before corn planting time, so
that one or two eyes, or not over one
inch of the cutting is above ground,
which will leave four or five inches
in the ground. Care must be taken
not to iniure the calluses that have
formed while the cuttings were bur-
led. Sometimes better results are OBJ
tanned by planting in partial shade.
Frequently cuttings made in winter
or early spring do nearly as well as
those made in the fall, but in the
north there is always danger of the
wood being injured during the win
ter.
How to Cut Roses.
There is right and wrong way
to cut roses. The CHOICE Of the latter |
properties Of the plants, it
is pointed out. This applies particu-
larly, of course, to rase plants chosen
and grown especially for cut-flower |
production. Such roses will be largely |
of the perpetual blooming sorts.
When a rose is cut from such plants |
tea roses or other perpetual bloom
ers-- only two or three eyes of the
seasons growth of that branch
should be left on the plant. This
should give the roses very long /
stems. Succeeding blossoms should
Us cut close to, the ground. 1t will
seem like destroying the bush to take
SO much off it., but if the object is
the production of roses, the cutting
away of the sulplus wood will attain
The desired end.
If the spring pruning has not been
sufficiently severe the plant is likely