Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-04-18
BRITISH WOMEN
EYES DAUGHTERS
DESPITE THE WAR
Vernal Millinery Includes
ssPeace" Turban and
"Hottentot" Hat
MODES IN MANTUAs


written specially for Evenins Ledger
BY ELLEN ADAIR
LONDON, April /. - Despite all this
talk Of wartime economy In matters sar-
foEiai, / am convinced that woman is
much the same all the world over. and
still clings to her little weaknesses in
dress. Nevertheless. the little tailor who
claimed exemption from military service
AZ one of the recent Tribunals, on the
srounds that woman could not get along
without his assistance, received short
Ehrift at the hands Of the military repre-
tentative
But, the Iadiesl What win they do for
Clothes when am gomez" walled the lit
sle man.
let them do without them !" was the
stern answer
This. indeed, is going a shade too far.
ia Il not7 True. the ancient Briton was
able TO exist. when the climate of Eng
land was even more glacial than II is to-
day. clad chiefly in a little paint--a cos
tune, 50 cynics inform us, which is not
50 obsolete history would have us be-
neve. IL the dresses of the beauty chorus
n 50 many theatres are any criterion.
ECONOMY IN DRESS URGED.
Certainly the paint system would be
economical For the cost of a few pots
OF enamel--but perhaps 1t were better
not to pursue this thought farther.
Let II suffice to say that the women OF
England are being urged not to buy
unnecessary glad rags" and, IL clothes
must be bought. then let them be durable,
and suitable for all occasions"
Luxurious boots, hats, gloves and wells
are to be Stunned, This Is all very dis
concerting. But what is one to do when
big blue posters headed, bad Form in
Dress" cast reproechful eyes at one at
every turn in the street? Injunctions such
as these make one feel that to be shabby
In wartime Is to be most truly fashion
ablei
But here comes April. and with 1t comes
the call-the cajolery of clothes True
the young men are in khaki--so are many
of the young women, If they belong to a
patriotic order of war-workers. But what !
OF those who for some reason or other
do not don the one and only shade? |
What of the inonensve soul who regu-
larly each vernal equinox has been accus- |
toned to burst forth in new $40 suit? [
IT is hard for such to take last seasons |
garment to the back Kitchen table, and. |
by the aid of little sponge impregnated |
with evil-smelling ammonia, to clean and |
press and renovate
DuCAL HAIR CUT.
=. But economy is here and economy will
lay- understand that certain noble |
luke has recently been having his hair
|cut by the equally noble duchess, so as to
save money. 1t is said that the duchess has 1
fixing pudding basin on the ducal pate,
and then shipping off all the hair that can
be touched by the scissors The result, l |
am told, leaves nothing to be desired.
Another well-known duke actuated by a
desire TO practice economy shaved himself
the other day. When interviewed. his
grace said that he was naturally much cut
up, although facing the ordeal manfully
He added that he had never been in such
n scrape before-that, in fact the occa-
ristied with difficulty.
spite of the new economy posters
= sheir stern injunctions, ] notice that
ing millinery is popping up every day
u quickly as the crocuses in the parks.
and with as much variety of coIOring.
There's the new peace" hat--in turban
shape--with two white doves perched i'm
inquisitive fashion in the crown. The eff
feet of this hat was curious when worn
on the head of an elderly woman some
what devoid of hair.
A certain wellknown duchess was
sporting" on her dark little head a very |
chic hat of French design consisting en-
tirely OF white violets. with two large
birds poised aloft-one black and one
white. This craze for birds is quite recent.
Another spring hat is the "Hottentot'-
Fashioned of hedgehog straw, and trimmed
with starting conglomeration Of ribbons.
Short capes have just come In, and in
Ragent street on sunny afternoon one
sees many three-tier affairs, chiefly of
Eahardine or taffeta The "Jehu" cape is
quite Short has three tiers. high collar
OF black velvet. and rows of queer little
buttons running down to the waist-line.
The CHARITY Girl cape is less complex
with a soft turnover collar of silk or
ksltIste and a black bow beneath. 1t runs
70 point at the centre of back and front
and falls short over the shoulder-line SO
as to display the elbows
-Pelarines" and quaint old fashioned
aehus are much in evidence-another
wartime economy perhaps. since in
every garret there are sure TO be ancient
trunks Allied with grandmamma's clothes
WAR WORKERS COSTUMES.
Suits for war workers are everywhere,
and apparently are created In England
and in England only They rather SAVIOR
has a coat cut on mannish lines with
Raglan sleeves and innumerable pockets
IL Is three-quarter length, and is worn
over breeehes, putees and spats to match
A thick white silk shirt is adorned with 4,
= stock tie, and the whole Is completed
by cloth cap. Worn by young and
slender girl, this costume is decidedly
attractive.
Among war workers. the "coat-dress"
too. Is immensely popular. II Is very .
economical, easy 20 put on, and will wear | !
. it last thread. With no absolute waist
line II s deftly nodded 10 the hgure, with {
ifs nlsats stitched and hattened. The !
sleeves are long and rather close-fitting.
yet allowing OF perfect freedom. Various
feE1meniai colors are generally displayed /
IN the tie or belt worn with this costume
From Paris comes the decree that the
severely tailored suit shall be the fashion
Tor the women Of all the warning e0un-
tries. At the same time. Paris Is Great q
ing extra frills and fufbeIows for the
women OF America, and she has decrsed
khRt for America the modes shall be
frankly Louis Ky or Louis XVI To ?
bring the tailored suit into line with such
periods Is no easy tasiS-yet most sue !
esssfuly achieved
Walking in famous Rotten Row this !,
msFnsnss where women OF the highest :
z4Hk aers c0ngregatsd. noticed that
afIaF all there WAS no vogue 50 universal
IS that Of the severely tailored suit, fash
I1ned q dark material, and cut on simple
though excellent lines. /