davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1916-04-13

who desire the election OF the Demo
cratic state and national ticket to join
with US In repudiating the political
machine built up in this state for the
use and benefit Of the builders. with
federal patronage as Its chief corner
stone.
RESOLVED, that the delegates
elected at this convention to the state
convention to be held at Pocatello,
Idaho, May 10, 1916, are hereby In
structed to vote as unit on all mat
tiers coming before the said state con-
vention.
Done in open convention, April 10,
1915, at Grangeville, Idaho.
w. w. BROWN,
Chairman.
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1916-04-13
LOCAL SCHOOL WINS RACE
Long and Howard Finish First i'm An.
nual Cross Country Run With

In the first annual cross-country
run held here last Saturday the
Grangevilie high school won IA points
the Nezperce boys winning 6.
The teams, each composed Of three
men, started at the postofiice, RAJ up
Main street to the court house, turned
north and after crossing the railroad
tracks turned west and ran to a
point about two miles from the start
ing point. They returned over the
same roads and finished at the post
Office
John Long, Of the local school, fin
ished first and Dennis Howard, am
other home boy, took second place.
Howard was only few inches behind
Long at the tape, the latter covering
the course In 81 minutes and 81 Sec
onds. Long has always been consider
ed the best distance man in the school
and lived up to his reputation. He
was still good for another mile after
finishing the four and Dennis was
also In good shape.
Fogg Of Nezperce, crossed the line
a minute after Howard and was close
the G. ii. s. Fike took fifth place.
A4otkEtts tnC OtnCl AtCZRcitc Olu
not finish. He and Long had kept the
lead all through the race until they
were within a block of the finish when
the plucky Nezperce runner got a
Ecramp in his legs and had to drop
out. He deserves credit nevertheless
and win probably be dangerous rival
in races to come. Medals were pre-
scented to the winners of the first three
places
The roads were in a bad condition
which accounts for the boys not ma
king as good time As was expected
The course the boys covered Is a little
over four miles In length and is espe
cially suited for cross-country race
A large crowd witnessed the race
and also contributed toward financing
the event. When 1t was seen that oul
boys had bested Nezperce and woI
the race the crowd went wild" be
cause victory over Nezperce is al
ways well received by the Grange
villeittes.
AS football has been discontinued
in the two schools the cross-country
run viii be made an annual affair Il
take its place. The run held Satur
day was scheduled to take place las
| fan but because of muddy roads 1t had
to be postponed.
| A dance was given In Schmadeka'i
hall In the evening in honor of tn.
visitors which was well attended.
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1916-04-13
POLITICAL ANN0UNcEMENT.

desire to announce that will be
a candidate for the Office Of Assessor
on the Republican ticket, subject to
the primary election to be held Sept
10. 1916.
CALVIN HAZELBAKER.
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1916-04-13

Paper, felts, roofing. See Madison.
w. @. Hill, the whitebird black
smith and machinist, was in the city
Tuesday.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12
Pattern No. ssOs Laid on Material ss Inches Wide.
Materials Of Other Widths will Require Different
Layouts.

Bring the shoulder edges together and
baste carefully, then make the seams
exactly as you have done in the skirt.
II you are using a thin material. take
up double seams as already de-
scribed. II you are using a heavy
material, take first seam on wrong
side and stitch on basting line. Bind
the edges with seam binding and press
open.
The sleeves are Of the "set-in'' sort
and are TO be joined to the arm-hole
edges before the under-arm seams are
closed. Take care that YOU put the
two together with the notches exactly
meeting, the single larger perforations
in the sleeves at shoulder seams. Pin
and baste. Stitch with double seam
or single scam exactly as directed for
shoulders. Pin the under-arm and
sleeve edges together Basic and
stitch, using either one or two seams as
the material requires. Gather the
sleeves at the lower edges between the
double crosses. Cut Innings for your
cuffs exactly like the outside. OF the
material of the dress if you have it,
If not. Of the lining material. Join
the ends of the cuffs and of the lining
separately. Press the seams open
and lay the outside over the lining,
the right sides together and seams
exactly meeting. Stitch along the
lower edges on the perforations indi-
eating the basting line, then turn the
cuffs over on this seam and stitch
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

the figure on one side will run up and
on the other side run down. You can
only told crosswise, to cut two pieces
together, when the material is plain
such as serge or linen.
Mark all the perforations and
notches, and mark the row Of tiny
perforations one-half inch within each
edge very carefully for it is these
that indicate the basting and sewing
lines. Mark through to the underside
with tailor's tacks, then when you
have pulled the two thicSnesses of
the material apart, pin the pieces of
the blouse together and lay aside
while making the skirt.
Leave the right side Of the blouse
full size but cut the left side off one
half inch nearer the front than the
line Of large perforations; for II you
leave them both the same size, there
would be a very wide lap which would
be uncomfortable to the wearer.
II il is necessary to economize very
closely on the material, cut the second
front from paper, and lay your pieces
out on single cloth in place of cutting
double. Lining materials usually are
thirty-six inches wide and the manner
in which the pieces are laid out in the
diagram will serve you.
Take up the darts in the front of the
body lining by bringing the corre-
tponding line Of perforations together
IN the right side. Stitch as close to
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

Underface the lower edge Of the
material and making the undertaking
about one and one-quarter inches in
width. Cut lining for the belt exactly
like the outside but cut off on the line
Of tiny pcrforations indicating the
seam, then arrange over the under side
Of the belt, allowing the seams in the
belt to extend beyond the lining and
baste into place. Turn the seams Of
the belt over the lining baste again
and turn the edges under TO form a
hem and fell in ,place, taking the
stitches through the lining only.
Stitch all around the belt as illus
trated. Arrange it over the blouse
between the perforatoins near the
under-arm seams and tack to position
at the under-arm seams.
For high neck blouse, cut a lining
ior the collar just like the outside. Lay
them together, the right sides meet
ing. and stitch along the upper edge
and across the ends on the basting
lines which you have marked with the
tiny perlorations. Then turn on right
side and baste carefully along all
stitched edges. Turn the seam allow
ance under on the lower edge Of the
collar and of the lining and slip the
edge of the blouse between them to
the depth Of the perforations which
indicate the SEAMS Paefc ~arafullv
and stitch all around the collar one
quarter Of an inch within the edge for
a finish. If you have made the dress
with a square neck, you will finish the
neck and front edges together. Cut
bias strips Of material one and one
half inches in width. Turn one-quar-
ter Of an inch under on each edge and
baste, then turn the seam allowance on
the neck and front edges Of the blouse
over on the right side and baste.
Arrange the trimming strip over the
neck and front edges and miter at the
corners. Baste into place and stitch
along both edges.
To make the frock as it is here will
be needed. 81 yards Of material a7
inches wide, 215 yards 80 or a. for the
blouse; 5 yards a7, ~ yards 80 or a.
inches wide for the skirt. for the II
year size.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

buckles. In this case, the buckles arc
rhinestone The gown can be copied
IN many different materials, il will be
lrefty TO make the llounUes and over
bodices Of tafeta for example with
Just the under bodice Of net or chiffon
or OF all-ovcr lace, or, net can be used
Tor both the ilounccs and under-bodice
with the ovor-bodice only ol the silk
Crepe de chine could be treated in
much the same way TO be charming and
georgctte crepe is most attractive. for
IL is liitle thinner than crepe de chine
and consequently a little more light
and airy in effect
THIS is one OF the pretticst and
quaintiest frocks that can be
found. As il is shown here, it is
made from one OF the new spring
silks with the trimming Of lace. It is
exceedingly dainty and girl-like in
effect and il is really ideal for after
noon functions. II It were made Nth
a lower neck it would be utilized Tor
dinner and formal evening occasions
also. The bell or flowing sleeves are
exceedingly interesting and the fitted
todicc with the full skirt makes one
OF the new features. Here there is a
trimming. OF lace applied over the
bodice as we'll as over the skirt ana to
roduce the effect, a straight piece Is
4rranged over the bodice and mitercd
81 the corners.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

Besides being a fashionable frock,
It is a very simple and easy one to
make. The pattern gives both the
seams and the basting line. The
diagrams show you just how to put
the pattern on the material and how
to put the pieces together. You can
not 60 astray if you follow the direc-
tions
The material chosen for the demon
ttration is thirty-six inches wide and
the material shown on the figure is Of
the same width. Should you be using
a fabric either wider or narrower. it
will of course be necessary to change
the layout for cutting, but the dia-
gram will help YOU nevertheless for it
shows the direction in which the pieces
should be placed and how to fold the
goods.
After you have pinned the material
carefully into place, mark all around
the outer edges with tailor's chalk, for
this pattern gives the seams. and this
marked line is the one on which you
will cut. For the pieces that are laid
out on the material in full width, cut
two lengths and lay the right sides
together, taking care that the figure
or nap runs in the same direction in
both, otherwise. you will find that
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

treated with singular success. and
often the costumes show certain quaint
ess Of draping and line that is especi-
ally well adapted to the materials. A
skirt Of serge with a draped tunic or
over skirt Of gros de Londres and a
short loose coat Of the silk with a
big flaring collar Of chiffon touched
with bits Of gold embroidery is ex-
quisite, and there are various similar
examples of prevailing features to be
found.
Undoubtedly capel will be much
used An attractive costume Of putty
colored faiile silk is absolutely simple
and almost severe in line and make,
save for the girdle which is richly
embroidered in blue floss and extends
a little up the back as well as around
the waist and for the bands Of em-
broidery which edge the deep cuffs.
but is given its note OF distinction by
the short shoulder cape of navy blue
serge. We are seeing a great many
unusual combinations. Serges are
trimmed with broadcloth. gabardine
is trimmed with poplin and cotton
voile is combined with silk.
A charming frock designed for after
noon occasions OF a simpler sort is
made with a full skirt Of white voile
tucked at the belt, and with bodice
that shows white voile making the
front and blue taffeta at the back
The kimono sleeves which are entirely
new and interesting are very wide as
they approach the wrist and are gath
cred into deep oddly-shaped cuffs OF
white silk. while the white silk also
makes the girdle and white lace the
high collar and the little chemisette
effect.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12
FADS and
FANCIES of
FASHION

NHRlSIM past and over. the
question of summer fashions for
the mid-winter resorts is one Of
the paramount interests in the realm
of dress. II we do not 60 South for
the severe or mid-winter, we can at
least discuss the fashions and CLEAN
from them suggestions fox the warm
weather fashions to be used later
There is always something fascinating
about new styles and there must be
something especially attractive about
the exploitation of summer fashions
in mid-winter TO induce so many
dealers to put aside the possibilities Of
the late season in order to exploit the
coming one.
At this writing the really. important
features Of the Southern fashions are TO
be found in the general picturesqueness
Of effect, in dropped shoulders and in
fancy sleeves, for they are apparently
on the greater number of dressy
toilets; with plain bodices, sleeves are
always more elaborate. Il appears
that weNcannot be plain in every
detail, We must find relief in one way
or in another.
White is always first choice for the
Southern resorts, for the coat suits and
for the simple one-piece gowns for
morning wear. A most attractive
model OF the latter sort is made OF
white flannel trimmed with white silk
braid. The simple straight gathered
skirt is trimmed we'll up the left OF the
front suggesting an opening. although
in reality none exists. The perfectly
plain bodice is made with bell sleeves
and with a high daring collar, and is
finished with a braid edged belt, with
generous Tapped ends, which is held
by a smart buckle OF black enamel.
Ii is an exceedingly attractive costume.
an exceedingly fashionable costume
and withal perfectly simple costume.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS
SSo3 with Basting Line and Added
Seam Allowancel Evening Bodice for
Misses and Small Women 10 and Is
years.
so22 With Basting kinc and Added
Seam Allowance) Flounced Skirt for
Misses and Small Women. 10 and Is
years.
S953 With Basting Line and Added
Seam Allowance) One-Piece Dress for
Mi ses and Small Women. 10 and IS
years.
So2o With Basting Line and Added
Seam Allowance One-Picce Dress tor
Misses and Small Women. 10 and Is
years.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12
GooiLM

again one-quarter of an inch within
each edge for finish. Arrange the
cuffs over the sleeves. the right sides
together and open edges meeting the
edges OF the sleeves and the seams to-
gether. Baste and stitch through the
outside only. on the perforations indi-
eating the seam and leave the lining
free, then turn the cuffs down and turn
the sleeves over on the wrong side
Turn the seam allowance on the lining
under on the perforations and arrange
over the seams. Pin and fell in place.
10 make a neat finish.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

II can be worn for numbcrless occasions
and it is one of the really valuable
gowns for which the practical woman
is always on the outlook.
A coat suit of ivory broadcloth is
made with a full haring skirt the
hounces Of which appear to fall in
plaits as it approaches the lower edge,
with a coat in wrist length that is
abundantly full over the hips with a
rolling collar and fronts that are I'm
ished in two points above the waist
line, one which laps from left TO right
and ono from right TO left. There IS a
button in the center OF each, buttons
hold the turned back revers in the
peplum and buttons finish the collar,
but absolutely no other trimming is 10
be found, the costume depends tor its
beauty upon lines and hneness OF
material.
A smart example Of the plated skirt
is found in white gabardine with
plated skirt that forms moderately
broad box plat at the front and short
loose coat with a very high fiaring
collar and bell shaped sleeves. The
fronts Of the coat are turned into
revers that are faced with ribbed
silk.
Without the white costume no
Florida wardrobe is complete and these
make excellent examples Of what is
liked for that famous resort. As a
matter Of course. there are coat suits
and one-piece gowns of color and the
blues. tans and grays are favorites.
but nevertheless the white costume
must always exist and the white
costume is especially charming this
year.
For the dressy suit. silks are ex-
tensively used. tafeta and gros de
Londres are favorites and there is
satin that is promised much vogue.
They are very charming and they are
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

THIS is one Of the newest and
and most interesting Develop
ments Of the onepiccc trock.
II is really in one piece for the bodice
and skirt are cut together. AT the
front. they are left plain but AT the
sides and back they are shirred and
stayed by a narrow belt and the or
namental belt is arranged over the
shirrings to be buttoned into place
at the ends. On the figure. the front
OF the bodice is faced TO give the
chemisette effect. That treatment is
a pretty one but not necessary AMI the
plain dress can be made without il.
The collar can be round or in sailor
style. On the figure, gabardine is the
material with trimming Of poplin,
but this is lrock that can be used
Evening journal., 1916-01-12
LE But ATTRACTIVE GOWNS = by MAY MANTON

1T WOULD be hard 10 find two ma
terials that combine to give a prct-
tier effect than chiffon with gros
dc Londres over bodice The CON
;rast is an exceedingly good one and
both fabrics are charming in them
se,vcs. The gown is a very graceful
and attractive one and at the same
time a very simple one The hounces
are straight that can be either plated
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

or gathered and they are arranged
over a plain foundation The little
under-bodice consists Of lining
which is faced at the arm-holcs and to
which the sleeves are attached, and the
full yoke is arranged over il. The
ovcr-bodice is the simplest garment
in the world to make. II is closed at
the back and the pretty fullness under
the arms is held by ornamental
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

for gabardine and for serge. for broad
cloth and for poplin and wool ma
terials OF the snrt aud also for silks.
grOs DC l.ondrcs and tafeta and tbs
various others that are 10 be worn
throughout the late winter and spring.
while It is equally desirable for the
washable fabrics that always are
interesting at this season Of the year.
Linen or eingham in this way would
result in a charming warm weather
trock.
For the 10 year size viii be needed.
6l4 yards Of material q inches wide,
s yards 90 or Al or } yards 81 With
q yard 50 inches wide to trim as
shown on the figure. The pattern
S9,o is cut in sizes for 10 and rs years.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12
Al FASHIONABLE SCHOOL FROCK
HOW TO MAKE 1T - TOLD BY
MAY MANTON.

THIS is a season at which new
frocks are sure to be in demand.
a For the spring and summer, the
Russian styles are exceedingly smart.
The little frock illustrated is made
with blouse and plated skirt which
is attached to a body lining. 1t can
be buttoned right up to the shoulder
and finished with high neck. in true
Russian style, or the neck can be cut
out TO form a shallow square in the
'front.'. For immediate wear, the high
closing will be the preferred one, but
mothers are likely TO be considering
the materials for the summer as well
as those for the spring. For such, the
square neck has unquestioned ad-
vantages.
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

he edge as possible. then turn on the
wrong side and stitch on the markings
indicating the basting line. Close
shoulder and under-arm seams in
exactly the same way, then turn the
right edge under on the tiny perfora-
tions indicating the seam, then again
on the perforations and stitch for
hem. Finish left side for underlap;
II you are using a heavy material, turn
the seam under-on the, tiny perfora-
tions and turn the raw edge in the
second time TO form a narrow hem
and stitch: for thin material. re-
Evening journal., 1916-01-12

quiring strength, cut a straight strip
the width Of your pattern from the
edge TO one-Quarter Of an inch beyond
the perforations, seam it to the edge
and turn under on the seams, turn the
extra seam width under and stitch
on the lines Of perforations Whether
you are using a high neck dress or a
square neck. finish the neck edge. To
do this, underface with bias strip of the
lining material cut three-quarters OF
an inch in width, for that will allow
YOU TO take up a seam and make an
inturn. and still give a facing as wide
as you require. Put the lining aside
and begin work on the skirt.
There will be straight widths to be
Joined to obtain the necessary length
and in cutting, you have, Of course,
allowed a half inch seam on each edge,
for the seams in the pattern are on
the outside edges only and cannot be
placed where joining of straight widths
is required. Press the seams open
carefully, then form the plaits by
folding on the lines of the smaller per
forations and tapping the folded edges
to the larger perforations and to the
center back which is indicated by the
line Of tiny perforations marking the
basting lines Now Join the back
edges below the notches, that is, il
you are using a light weight material
and there is no selvage, bring the two
together on the right side as close to
the edge as you can, turn again and
stitch on the perforations. II you are
using a heavy material, bring them
together on the wrong side, stitch and
bind each edge with seam binding.
Cut two straight strips of material
as long as the placket is deep and
make one two inches and the other
one inch in width. Underface the
right side with the narrower Of these
strips. Stitch one long edge Of the
wider to the left side. Fold your strip
at the center and turn the outer edge
under and lap over the seam and
stitch into place. Lap the underfaced
edge over the extension, baste care
fully and stitch firmly across the lower
edge of the undertaking. Lay the
lining over the skirt, right sides to-
gether, the lower edge of the lining
meeting the upper edge of the skirt,
center fronts and center backs to-
gether. Cut a bias strip of your
lining material one inch in width and
lay over skirt, the edges exactly meet
ing, and haste. Stitch through the
lining, the skirt and this strip. on the
basting line. Turn the strip Of facing
up under the lining. Turn the edge
under for inturn and stitch on the
outer edge.
As the first step in the making Of the
blouse, you must finish the front edges.
To do this, cut bias strip OF the ma
terial TO match the skirt the length Of
the blouse. two and three-quarter
inches in width. Lay this strip under
the edge Of the right front, the right
side of the trimming strap coming
against the wrong side of the blouse.
Basic and stitch on the tiny perfora-
tions in the blouse, then turn the strip
over onto the right side of the blouse,
and baste carefully along the edge.
Turn the outer edge under for one
quarter Of an inch and stitch along
each edge as illustrated. Underface
the shoulder edge. To finish the left
side, make a tiny hem taking up just
the one-half inch you have allowed
beyond the line Of large perforations.