The sun., 1916-01-02
~ ELEANoR HOYT BRAINERD.

being shown for the beneft OF the
southwark bound, and as for the de-
signers and manufacturers. they are
speaking Of last winter" as though
the winter Of l9i5-i6 were mere
matter Of history.
But the women are wearing their
winter clothes. and some uncommonly
attractive winter clothes. They are
even buying more winter clothes. lured
thereto In some cases by after Christ
mas bargains and In other cases
tempted by new variations Of ideas
which have become hackneyed In the
original form Of expression.
The Ritz-Carlton fashion show,
coming late in the season. gave the
dressmakers some charming themes
with which to play. and the models
shown for the Southern season show
the influences Of these ideas. as do
some winter models brought out by
way Of postscripts to the main sup
ply; but. as usual. the hats and frocks
and coats prepared to meet the needs
Of women going South show no actual
departures from winter modes and are.
in fact. but those same modes trans.
planted into materials suitable for
sunshine and mild weather.
with no chance Of a gay Southern
season In Europe the French dress
makers will not have their usual op-
portunity to try out experimental
modes for the coming spring. Egypt
and the Riviera offer no setting for
fashion shows. even II women had the
heart for preening their fine feathers
in either place, and even Biarritx and
Tangier. while out Of the main path
Of the storm. will miss most OF their
habitues. So once more Americans
are the chief customers, and II is
not likely that anything really new
will be tried out for them before the
regular spring openings.
Many Of the midwinter clothes are
appropriate for wear In milder clt-
mates. thanks to the present day fash
ion Of winter wearing Of chiffon and
taffeta and other materials once dedi-
Gated to summer uses. To be suro
most Of the winter frocks and suits
are fur trimmed. but a touch of fur
10 permissible nowadays. even on sum
mer frocks. and II Is the modish coat
that Is lavishly fur trimmed. many
Of the frocks showing but q very lit
tie fur or none at all.
Substitute q little shoulder cane Tor
your heavy coat. and there you are
equipped for warmer climes.
1t is easy to find the shoulder cape
or to have one made after a good de-
sign. The French drapers have
played with the cape idea very effec-
lively and one may have . cape IN
almost any length from that OF Cal
lots cape collar. which lies hatly over
the shoulders and curves up high and
close about the throat. buttoning down
the left side from ear to shoulder
point, to Worth's gorgeous vclve: and
sable full length cape. passing
Jenny's little elbow depth coat capes
en- route.
Even mere collars. not frankly hall
cape half collar. like the Callot model
often have q tendency capeward.
A chic little frock OF gaba cdine and
taffeta illustrated in our large cut hal
longs to the cape class. The collar
lines suggest the Puritan collar which
came upon US with such a rush last
summer, but It falls from q very high
standing collar instead Of lying
smoothly over the shoulders, and be-
tween the fronts appears this high col
lar band of fur. The collar Itself is o.
gabardine. the bodice Of taffeta anG
the simple full skirt OF taffeta
trimmed In horizontal. rather wide
bands OF gabardine up to the hip line
Deep cuffs too are OF the gabardine.
A very engaging little model of tn,
simple sort that Parisiennes are wear
ing now is a good frock for a make.
over. and nevertheless unuuestion
ably smart. With the fur eliminated
the collar would be less extreme ant
a swathed silk cravat would he sat.
isfactory substitute: and. indeed. w
have seen a copy of this frock. partly
finished. in white serge AMI whit,
tafYeta. with a cravat OF brilliant ng.
ured silk In futuristic orange and blu,
and purple. which. while demanding
considerable Of a wearers complexion
WAS q very jolly. youthful looking a.
fair.
A jaunty caps coat model. not 70,
every woman. but attractive for the
right woman. has . worry short coal
rippling out widely around the hips
and pinched In snugly at the wais
line, though the pinching In Is done
by rutting and draping OF the soft ma
terial rather than by stiff tailoring
To add to the Quaintness a cape fall,
just to the elbow around sides ant
back. leaving the sharp waist curve In
view. This cape has a row Of buttons
and buttonholes straight up the mid
die of its back and the coat fronts
turn back over It in a tailored collai
with notched revers.
Naturally this coat, poorly made ol
badly worn. would play havoc with the
figure, giving It indescribable bunchi
ness OF line: but on a slim younl
mannequin IL was as charming as l,
was quaint
Jenny has short cape that falls
from a high wrinkled fur borderet
choker collar. to girdle top In front
but dips down below the hips in the
back. Doucet's lovely white and silver
evening model has a little cape Of sill
yer lace. Paquin's stunning blue vel.
vet coat has a short cape bordercd II
gray fur across the back.
30 1t goes In frocks and coats, ant
then there arc the separate capes, thos,
adorable little shoulder capes with
mu6 and perhaps toque en- suite
Some Of these are all fur, like tn,