Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-12-31

, about an immense jeweled design in
old silver and colored stones placed in
front.
There is no chance that medievalism
will disappear from the new gowns.
Every evidence impresses one more
deeply that medieval gowns Will grow
4, in fashion and even become more &c
centric in their workmanship as spring
advances. Straight lines from shoulder
| to heels are sought by most OF the
well dressed women in the country.
The belt at the normal waist line is
rarely seen, except between a white
blouse and a tailored skirt. The belts
that are put on outside blouses ana
one-piece frocks are sometimes placed
at the normal line. but they are loose.
ornamental and do not attempt to hold
in the material beneath.
The one-piece frock is still running
a deadly rivalry against the coat and
skirt. and the manufacturers OF clothes
say that 1t is winning every week Fur
coats, as we'll as long cloth coats with
lavish fur trimming, are really respon-
sibIe for the partly successful boycott
up the topcoat with so much eager
ness that they are willing to throw
aside any other garment that keeps
them from wearing it, The thin one
the hour, but the sensible woman has
one good coat suit in her wardrobe.
-
Another reason for the popularity of
the one-piece frock is the insistence
upon late afternoon entertaining which
is made by the masses of people. and
not by the few idle ones as heretofore.
A fashion that will not be discarded
In 1917 is to match an evening wrap
to the gown or. If economy holds one
to only two evening wraps. they must
harmonic with ones evening frocks
and. If possible. match two of them. AS
peacock blue, green and three shades
OF red are the colors most frequently
chosen for evening wraps, it shows that
evening gowns themselves display
partially toward costume colorfng.
The dahlia shades are rising in favor,
and smart turbans are covered with
large dahlias in their deeper shades.
There will be a suit of a deep purple
and an outside blouse of another shade
of purple to contribute to the dahlia
effect. This Is true In afternoon clothes
and it has gained followers in evening
clothes. Certain smart women who
come into fashionable places look like
dahlias in full bloom. as every part of
their costume represents some one
shade Of this flower 1t may be that
season. Such is the inference.
II q woman takes up this idea for
the evening she will find that one
wrap will suit several gowns. but there
is a tendency today to have several
wraps in the wardrobe and have them
made at home out of lengths of velvet
or satin trimmed with furs that one
has or that one can pick up at sale.
This Is a return to the fashion of
twenty years ago. when even women
with small incomes owned several
evening wraps. They are simple to
make. as they are merely capes or
capelike coats that hang full from a
or q
of the gown.
The newest French evening wraps
have the entire upper part Of fur and
the lower part Of brilliant brocade.
Several Of them look like portieres
made of bright velvet and trimmed
with q broad bullion galloon. The
somber evening wrap and the black
wrap have practically disappeared.
There is. however, an immensely good
new one which has its top of old ivory
colored brocaded velvet, to which q
sweeping cape Of black panne velvet
is attached in wide. futed pleats which.
ing Of plain ivory velvet This cape is
extraordinarily full and it is slit at
the sides. with Immensely wide cuffs
put into the Sits which serve as
sleeves.
Every cable brings from Paris the
news that tho skirts of 1917 win be
narrow. All those IN the watch towers
have proclaimed the coming Of this
enemy 10 Iuli shIrtS since iaSt Septem-
Der. but only in limited segments Of
society WAS the news acted upon. The
manufacturers had the material for
full skirts. the average woman wanted
full skirts. the wholesale houses turned
them out by the thousands. and 1t was
only left to the exclusive women and
their dressmakers to cut down the
width and lengthen the hem.
Even now there are skirts that are
slightly gathered to the waist line, and