Evening star., 1916-12-05
BY ANNE RITTENHoUSE.
Special Correspondents. of The Star.

Special Correspondence OF Inc star.
NEW YORK. December 4.-Whenever 4.
the fashionable set moves here and
there with the regularity of rising
and falling tide. going to Hot Springs,
coming back to Long Island, galloping
down to Aiken, drifting on to Palm
Beach. back to Newport for the sum-
mer. the designers get out a goodly
array of new and persuasive clothes.
One would think that in the realm of
sport apparel the last word had been
said, that every brain had been fag-
ged from trying to think of something
new. At one time there were women
who confounded the Piping Rock Club
with Columbus Circle on Broadway
and thought the word sport" applied.
in the phrase of famous chorus girl,
to a gent who opened wine and wore
a top hat"
Most of us know better by this time
and the majority recognize that there
is one word in English slang which
covers two activities. between which
there is a great gulf fixed. The set
that hunts Is the leader in sport
clothes. but it is by no means the only
set that desires and adopts them.
The Incoming Short Coat.
Heretofore. we have associated the
sport coat with long garment that
covered the rest of our apparel. but it
is evident, if the designers have their
way. that we are to look at short coats
for outdoor activities.
Some of the new ones built for Aiken
and Palm Beach barely cover the
waist line. and one already sees them
at the week ends on Long Island,
which continue throughout the coldest
part of the winter, much to the up
building of health and happiness.
There are women who tell you that it
is entirely necessary to own friend
in the country in order that one may
be able to wear the best looking clothes
of the season. They insist that the
things that are designed for sports are
better than those designed for balls
and luncheons. 1t is true that colors
strain of savagery to like the bril-
liancy that looks like Turner plus
Bakst. Even the most conservative
woman far past fifty would wear some
of these colors If she dared. and the
youngster who has no chance to exploit
them on the streets of a city works
overtime to get chance to do it in
the country.
Velvet in Gay Colors.
The sketch shows a suit designed for
Aiken. which may be worn when the
polo season is in full swing, in that
pine-laden atmosphere over the red
hills. where one is bound to feel that
the turmoil of life is a very foolish
thing If one can escape it.
This coat is quite short. flares bit
at the hem. and is reminiscent of Pier
rot's jacket. with its huge buttons on
sleeves and front. except for the gor-
geousness of its coloring. 1t is a bril-
liant orange in thick velvet. lined with
bright blue satin. The buttons are
covered with the velvet and the two
pockets in front are corded with it.
There is ruff of combed skunk around
the neck and there is also one of those
new caps that dominate the smart
world. cap that rises high in front
| drops low at the back. and is orna-
mented with metallic discs and COL
| ored tassels.
| This type of headgear is featured
| more by the public than by the milli-
| ners. although the latter express sat
isfaction with it. IL not preference for
| 1t. 1t Is not universally becoming, and
| the woman with round or a stout face
should not even try it on.
The women who go in for country
| life and who motor in the daytime or
| errands appear to have abolished the
| hat with brim. They have not only
| taken up these high velvet caps, bi,
some of them go in for the skull car
I mense ornament in front