The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-30
Dolly Meets Ann Hd0iland, Perfunler De Luxe, and Hears Americans Are People With No Sense of Smell
 lNo 9 aInseh ahces sahonr reen xdt to N YoN
By DOLLY DALRYMPLE
YN VERYBODY who knows me knows
 " of my intense dislike for perfumes; kA nunsent heavy, odoriferous scents


 A pungent. heavy. odoriferous scents all but kill me and while I know that perfumes have swayed nations and more 1 than one King has been betrayed by the
 seduction of "an invisible fragrance" l cannot help feeling as do, or did, about perfumes.
 1 Cleopatra, we are told, adored the odor
 of the Champa flower and Lotos; the
 combination must have filled the air
 heavy with incense; as far back as Lilith
 in the Garden of Eden, some poet has sung of all the flowers pouring forth 1 their sweetness to make a fragrance all 1 her own. Marie Antoinette loved the ne- i liotrope, and it was especially grown for her in gardens along the Riviera. The l Empress Josephine loved musk, it is said, | and at Malmason the walls are so inn pregnated with it that the plaster when
 torn away to be replaced, were redolent | of the odor approved of by Napoleon queen. Wilhelmina of Holland cast her vote for eau de cologne, quarts Of 1t l being used for the morning bath The past few seasons in New York
 when so many oriental plays have been 1 produced it is said that a revival of | the exotic perfumes of the far east has | taken place and the story is told Of the
 man who went to a moving picture snow
 where an oriental film was being dis l played and where the manager in order l to add a touch of local color, burned some of those pungent taperlike things | that are used in Chinese joss houses and | at summer resorts in the mosquito belt. gentleman of fussy aspect entered. 1 He sniffed the air sharply and then ad- | dressed an usher.
 Young man." he stated in the tone of | one who is not to be deceived, T smell l punk
 1 "How't that sir?" asked the youth. q said,' repeated the severe man, that
 I smell punk
 l "Oh, thatE be all right" said the
 usher reassuringly. q can let you sit in 1 a box where nobody'I notice it.' | That's exactly the way I've always felt that somebody ought to put em in a box where nobody could smell 'em-those 1 highly perfumed, stifling, heavy, pungent 1 ladies (and gentlemen), that smell | punk.
 | I said that's the way I've always felt; that's true; but my smelling faculties ! have undergone a remarkable change since 1 went to New York a short time ago and had the pleasure of meeting a "Perfumer de Luxe, in the person of
 Mrs. Ann Haviland, whose business it is to perfume people with perfumes that suit their especial style; to perfume homes, to perfume theatres according to their kind
 Mrs Haviland has a very attractive studio" in one of the fashiona ble smaller streets just off Fifth avenue, where all the really 'swell' artists reside You walk into a tiny building and you'll see Mollie O'Hara's name in big letters
 And everybody knows that Mollie O. 'Hara I;- ,-;,, .ia ,aC l in New York; the other door leads you 1 to Ann Havands "studio,' which is ar 1 tstic from the front door to the little 1 garden she's built on fve-foot lot which the back windows overlook. | Dull lights, in browns and deep golds- rugs harmonizng with these soft nuances and shades, draperies in oriental designs l form the furnishings of this attractive place. When Mrs. Haviland appears in l her artists gown she is quite a picture, as she holds in in her hands some long, slender sort of tube-like glass things in | long waisted senderer looking bottles, 1 and lets you sniff abit of some de- 1 licious odor. You sort of feel as if the 1 Elysian fields have been opened to you and that bliss is yours forever more. I Really, I am on fairly good terms with
 perfumes since met Mrs, Haviand. Up
 to that time I passed them in the street
 and didn't even nod my head; bus this clever woman revealed to me a side of perfumes that I'd never suspected they possessed She explained to me how
 every person has their own individuality l in perfumes as well as in bonnets and
 gowns, and that the artistic perfumer should study her subject and make per 1 fume to suit each individual.
 For instance Mrs. Haviand said, 1 1.-TWO women came into my studio the
 other day; one of them was rose wom- lan--large, insistent, overwhelming, in her 1 physical pulchritude and personality; the other was a modest little violet-shrink-
 ing, entirely without personality, and as passive and inane as baby. Now, the | woman of Amazonian proportions, do you 1 think that I'd let her wear an animal 1 perfume, asynthetic, civet, amber or
 musk? Never. What I'd use would be a distilate of seductive, elusive odors, something to take away from her bigness
 and her ponderosity. Now with the vio- | let woman it would be different; she | should wear perfume that would greet you when she entered the room; some thing to bring her out, infuse her with
 personality; something heavy, perfume
 that would be remembered. That is the
 manner in which I go about choosing a perfume. Of course l never make the same kind for any two people, just as a good bonnet maker never makes two bon nets alike for any two people.
 | Americans are people without 2 sense of smell,' Mrs. Haviland declared
 "The American child has it's ear culti
 vated the child is taken to symphony concerts and taught the sense of sound it's sense of sight is cultivated by seeing
 beautiful paintings, but the poor little
 noses are merely stuck on pretty little
 faces to be admired, and powdered; il
 the nose is unduly large or eXaggeratedlS .,.z1 ne
 saged and worked on, but taught sense
 of smell-that it is really intended for
 never"
 Then I knew why hated perfumes my
 ter Mix sugar and flour, add egg
 water salt and butter and stir smooth
 Cook to a cream in a double boiler; ado
 half teaspoon of vanilla Let it cool [ 4la. s..A- l-.Ix a1