davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20
The Silk Sweater Assured Another Summer of Popularity = The Sport Skirt Is Business Like But the Sport Waist May Be As Frivolous
 As It Pleases- Sport Hats Have Dash.

tons. So there is wide choice in skirt and waist combinations. both as to material and color.
 Pastel Shades Replace Bold Hucs.
 There is a tendency toward softer, daintier tints in sport garb this sea son. Two items of sport dress show it plainly; the necktie and the sweater. Last summers sweaters and ties were calculated to strike sensitive taste into color blindness. This summer wa shall have quieter, daintier hues it seems. Some of the new silk sweat CTS are charming. And by the way silk sweaters are to be as fashiona- ble as ever they were, so the woman who spent twenty dollars for one last season may take heart of grace. Many of the new models combine two colors, not only in ground and border effects, but in more striking manner: for instance Q sweater of pale yellow and black silk has yoke of black well below the armpits; then comes yellow silk to the hipi then a bordergof black. The sleeves are black as far down as the elbow and then yellow-to core spond with the color division in the sweater.
 And that reminds me-one does not speak of one's sweater any more; that is if it is an expensive silk affair of the de luxe sort. Then 1t is a field coat"-rather delightful phrase that, borrowed from ones English cousins, and surely more applicable to a smart knitted silk jacket than the humble term, sweater. A new field coat is of rose pink silk with a border of black and white checks. The coat fastens high to- the neck and has straight, high collar which buttons around toward the left side. There are wedge-shaped block check pock- cts below the waistline at either side The long sash has block checked ends finished with rose pink tassels.
 Sweater Sashcs Tie at the Side.
 One ties one's sweater sash far around under the right arm now in- stead of in the center front and the sash is knotted closely around the normal waistline instead of rather low in the Oriental manner This is so that the field coat may flare below the waist with the flare of the skirt and give the snug, close effect above the waist that is desirable just now. To match the rose pink and block check field coat just described there is d stunning sport hat of burnt bread bas- ket straw with tall crown and im- mense mushroom brim, the crown and upper brim covered with applique rose and black silk checks.
 very attractive golf costume is in the combination of violet corduroy coat and lavender and white taffeta skirt Silk is none too fine. you see, for q morning on the links. This skirt. of lavender and white striped taffeta is cut in four gores. the stripes arranged obliquely, with inverted pleats at front back and side seams The violet corduroy coat is a new model with decided flare below the waistline. 1t has two belts, one run ming all the way around and the other across the front only. The Norfoll pleat. running from the upper belt tC the bottom of the coat is new fea.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

@ HE Englishwoman takes such A comfort from her afternoon cup M of tea; such solace, such recu- <aE peration, such rest for worried or weary nerves, that it does seem d pity more of her American sisters do not follow her good example. In America. afternoon tea is a pleasant relaxation-if one has time for it; in England, it is custom as unalterable as the laws of the Medes and Per sians-or the recurrence of the din- ner hour. Indeed the average English woman would far rather omit dinner from her daily routine, than afternoon tea Everybody takes tea at four thirty or five o'clock; the lady of the manor, the housekeeper in her rooms, the maids in the scullery; the woman who is shopping pauses in her ab- sorbing occupation and repairs to a ';tea place" for her indispensable cup; the stenographer in a busy office lays aside her work, puts on a tidy little apron and assists the junior office boy to prepare tea for the .entire office staff.
 A good many women, having ex- perienced the delight and comfort of English afternoon tea, have made, valiant efforts to establish the custom in their own homes over here; but sooner or later. after the novelty wore off, something more important was sure to interfere with the pleasant 1it- tie rite. The serving of tea at five o'clock became spasmodic, dependent on other engagements and finally was discontinued altogether. The trouble is, that the afternoon tea custom, over here in America, is more or Jess of a pose and it's artificiality soon makes an end of it, no matter how good are intentions at the start.
 In the restaurants. however. it f1ourishes apace. Tea hour is the most crowded hour of the day and would be the most prosperous hour for mine host of the hostelry except that at it's best. the afternoon snack cannot be made to cost any more than about so much. Even as it is one pays rather exorbitant sum-at fashionable tea place-for the cup that cheers and an accompanying muffin. American women are not tea enthusi- asts-not by any means. If they do not prefer hot chocolate with halo
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

fer of white silk striped with orange The coat Is worn with a pleated skirt of black and white striped serge and a black raffia hat having two silk to- matoes in orange color. Imagine the smart and unusual effect!
 The Tennis Maid Clings to Washable
 White.
 Devotees of tennis will have none of the gay colored sport apparel that ap- peals to adherents of golf; perhaps because white, cool and fresh from the laundress, is the only possible choice for a blazing tennis court on hot day. Golf is a serene and unwilling pastime. Between strokes, one cools off while strolling over the green; but
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20
F@ HE dainty little summer morn
 ing frock of sprigged lawn or
 | dimity is having a lonely time

N ing frock of sprigged lawn or A dimity is having a lonely time N&% of it these days. Nobody wears It but old ladies and very small girls whose mothers do not care for rom pers. All the rest of femininity spends the morning hours, and most of the afternoon as well, in sport clothes There areSAany advantages about the summer wardrobe made up of sport clothes and evening gowns and women have been quick to find them out. One is so comfortable in sport clothes: so ready for anything that may come up, be it 8 walk, or a sail, 9 game of tennis, a round of golf, or afternoon tea at the club. Sport clothes will stand deal of rough usage without being unpresentable. Of course one would like to be spic, span and inn maculate every moment; turned out in fresh outfit with each new morn; but if that is impossible no one thinks any the less of one. if one's sport skirt happens to be wrinkled, if ones sport blouse shows signs of having had its sleeves rolled up the day before for strenuous match of tennis, if the ribbon on ones sport hat has faded, or ones sport shoes have not been whitened since yesterday.
 Separate Skirts and Sport Waists For
 Golf.
 This is the era of the separate waist and shirtwaist-only one must call 1t a blouse, these days; or preferably. q. "bloose" if one is extremely Parisian and up-to-date. Singularly enough it is not at all necessary to wear a man. nlsh, tailored blouse with a rough and ready sport skirt-not at all! Ones tennis blouse may be of Georgette crepe daintified with hemstitching. and one's golf blouse of pink and white striped satin, if one so elects. The sheerest, most elaborate linserie b1ouses were worn last summer at fashionable summer resorts, with golf and tennis skirts of flannel and avn ing-striped cotton; and signs at the Southern resorts this winter point to the same custom for this year.
 The pastel striped golf blouscs are sure to be popular; they are so com fortable in their loose grace of line. and so becoming with their soft, faint colorings. For golf wear is a wash able satin waist in pale blue and white accompanying a gored golf skirt of white washable gabardine with corded stripes. The skirt nas q wide belt oi the material with a lap and two but tons, deep patch pockets also lapped and buttoned, and group of buttons down the front. The blue and white satin waist has long sleeves and a high turnover collar and tie of black moire ribbon.
 Another golf costume combines . gored skirt of white satin finished pique with belt and pockets trimmed with pearl buttons; and long-sleeved blouse of white silk striped in cerise each stripe being outlined in black A narrow black moire ribbon makes the tie. For golf also is a sport skirt of awning stripe cotton gabardine fir green and white, with buttons oi green bone. and tucked blouse o pale green Georgette crepe with hem stitching and groups of tiny pearl but
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

fish fashion with quilted teacosy-. and the small jugs of cream and sugar. with sliced lemon for those who pre- fer Russian tea. When the tray has been set on it's table beside the hostess the maid goes back to the kitchen for the muffin stand; one plate of which will hold slices of thin bread and butter, tiny sandwiches or minute bis- cults, halved and spread with butter. On another plate will be little cakes for the guest who has sweet tooth.
 Any maid can be trained to serve tea in this simple manner deftly and perfectly, and without special direc- tions from her employer except "Tea. Ellen," when the bell is answered. But the wise hostess will have the tea served by the new maid many times. when there is no guest in the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

light blanket cloth with a line of red border that occurs at the edge of tho coat, on the sleeve and across the pocket The coat is shaped by darts which are concealed under curved box pleats running from shoulder to pocket at front and back. Of course this natty sport costume is accom- panied by a red and white striped necktie and red silk band on the soft white felt hat
 A separate sport skirt of white
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20
guests prefer highbaIls to tea. This ample preparation for the afternoon highball pro- vides cracked ice bowl,
 glasses and bottle
 and syphon
 nv-

racks.
 enthuse over coffee, also crowned with whipped cream and served with little sweet cakes as a late afternoon pick me-up. But vast numbers of them insist upon real pick-me-up as ob- servation in any smart restaurant at tea-hour will attest.
 There are households, however, in which the excellent custom of after noon tea Is kept up, year in and year out; and there are hostesses who make a practise of serving afternoon tea regularly on special at home day every week. Other hostesses who do not bother about afternoon tea every day, because of the press of more inn portant affairs, have 0 standing order in the kitchen so that when a caller is being entertained of an afternoon; a neat maid-without any evident sig nal on the part of the mistress brings in the tea tray and establishes it costly. quite as though it were a custom in that house every afternoon the year round. This is pretty hos pitality that is rather to be commend ed, and If there is a bit of pose about it, it is 8 very harmless one.
 If there is a special set of tea para phernalia things will go much more smoothly in the kitchen, for after be- ing used, the tea things can be put back in their proper place. all ready for instant use next time. Dainty ap- pointments for afternoon tea service give the same eclat to modest men age as a we'll trained and correctly garbed maid. One feels that one's hostess of the afternoon, simple and unpretentious as her home may be. Is to the manner born and has always been used to the little luxuries and niceties of life.
 A special tea table Is great con venience. for it is awkward when books and photographs must be re- moved from the living room table to make room for the tea things. One of the Colonial candle tables with hinged top will be excellent When not in use this table may stand against the wall. The maid can bring it for ward and lower it's round top in a twinkling, ready for the tea tray. On this Tray should be set out the pretty tea cups. teapot--covered in the Eng
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

drawing room. to be sure that the service is quite as itashould be.
 One muffin stand is of wicker with plates of bright-colored English china. Mahogany muffin stands are hand somer, but they are also heavier than this convenient wicker model Alter noon tea for one can be daintily served in the guest room when guest has arrived by late afternoon train if there is at hand an attractive little teaset
 For men guests the complete high ball set of glass and nickel is1recom- mended Twill make "afternoon TT a popular diversion at that house.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

blanket cloth has a border of blue at the hem and oblique pockets of blue with white pearl buttons. The belt is of blue and white kid. A sport coat of the same white blanket cloth flares out from the waistline, buttoning trimly down the front with fiat white pearl buttons. There is no color on the coat save at the knee, where a border of orange runs just above the hem, but with the coat goes muf-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

,ALavendep
 and w hIte TaffgJa Sport Sklpt with Violet Corduroy
 Jac ket to MatCh
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-02-20

A For the GolfiSt:
 White
 BIaNket Cloth Stplped lnRed. q Red Tie
 8nd Red Ratband
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
PAPER FAMINE IS
 PLANT OF EDITORS
War Effects Paper Production
 British Factories Busy With Munitions

NEW YORK. April 26.-The short age of white print paper and means for meeting the unprecedented situa- ton were discussed today by newspa per publishers from all parts of the United States in attendance at the annual convention of the American Newspaper Publishers Association.
 Because the demand for print paper is expected to be greatest, as usual during the next 90 days. the publish CTS were urged to employ every meth cd of saving. even 10 the cutting down of magazines.
 Reasons for the shortage of white paper were outlined in report by Lincoln E. Palmer manager of the association. He pointed out that the demand for print paper began to in crease in the spring with the increase e circulation and the greater de mand for advertising space. In ad dition, the European war had diverted from England and Scandinavia many South American publishers who are now seeking in the American market. Furthermore the manufacture of high grades of paper also has drawn heav- fly on the supply of materials foi lower grades.
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
TROOP WITHDRAWN
 FROM MEXICO
Small Cavalry Force Relieved By Inauguration of New
 Motor Trail
fBv 3eview Leased Wire)

COLUMBUS, N. M., April 26.-A troop of |. s. cavalry arrived here to- day, having been withdrawn from Bo- cao Grande, 25 miles south of the bor- der on the old motor trail used by trucks bound for the front The new road, which is said to be better and shorter. cuts off the American camps at Boca Grande and Espia, necessitat- ing fewer troops to guard the line in consequence.
 Heavy traffic over the old road. lead ing west along the boundary and thence south through Boca Grande and Espia to Ascencion, seventy miles from the frontier, has so rutted it that truck trains now are being routed di- rectly south from Columbus to Las Palomas and thence southwest to As cenciOn.
 All reports reaching here today in dicated that beyond few local move ments toward the preservation of the American line. General Pershing's s command remains inactive and concen trated in the main about Namiquipa and Colonia Dublan.
 The report of Colonel Dodd's recent engagement was followed by numbers of conflicting rumors, but none of them were borne out by official re ports.
 Captain Willis of the army aero corps, who was injured in the fall of an aeroplane in the Sierra Madres sey eral days ago. left today for San An tonic to recuperate.
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
MEXICAN WEST COAST GROWS
 1URbULANT
Anti-American Outbreak Oc- CUTS At Salina Cruz, Fore
 ing U. s. Merchant Vessel
 To Seek. Safety At Sea !,

SAN DIEGO, Calf, April 26.-Re- ports of an anti-outbreak at Salina Cruz, state of Oaxaca, Mexico, after the fight at Parral between troops Ui troops O the United States and Car ranza soldiers or ciylnans were brought here today by officers Of the steamer Roanoke. of the California, South Sea Navigation comlaDy. The sentiment against the Americans was so intense, at one time they declared, that the American vice consul request ed Captain R. D. Dickson to take his ship to sea without waiting to load the remainder of the freight piled on the docks for shipment to the north
 At Mazatlan, where the roanoke made a stop conditions were quiet, Captain Dickson sad.
 The Roanoke brought 35 passengers and a cargo Of gold and silver bullion, coffee and sugar, valued at more than s75O.OO0. The coffee shipment, SO,OOO sacks is said to be the largest brought from Nicaraguan and Guatemalan portbssince 1912.
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
HOUSE DEMOCRATS IN OPEN SPLIT ON
 PHILIPPINE BILL
Presidents Letter Favoring Freedom For islands In 4 Years Fails To Change Op- posing Minds
(ey Review Leased Wirel

WASHINGTON, April 26.-House Democrats in conference tonight were unable 10 agree on the Philippine bill notwithstanding a letter from Presi- dent Wilson endorsing the measure. The conferees adjourned until tomor- row. Such vigorous opposition 10 the bill occurred that even some of it's supporters admitted that it's fate was 
 In his letter, handed to Representa- ;atives Jones. chairman of the House insular affairs committee today and read tothe conference, the PresIden said that to clear up any doubts as to whether he favored the bill as it pass cd the Senate with the Clark amend nent for independence within four years, he wished to state that he un- qualifiedly endorsed it and hoped it would pass without amendment.
 Representative Jones made Ions speech and proposed a resolution to bind the House Democrats to vote for the bill. Representative Conrey of New York submitted as a substitute a resolution declaring that no action be taken looking to the independence of the Philippines until full, fair and compelete opportunity be given to hear from ali parties interested in the is lands and whose interests are to be affected by the proposed legislation.
 These resolutions. will be the basis of tomorrow nights conference.
 Representative Garrett of Tennessee moved to table the Conrey resolution but withdrew his resolution when there were protests of "gag-rule.''
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
50 MILLIONS RAISED FOR OIL MERCER.

NEW YORK. April 26,-Arrange- ments have been made here, accord ing to Harry Sinclair of Tulsa, Okla. for financing the new S50,000.0O0 in dependent oil producing and refining company which will have it's principal offices in New York, Chicago and Tulsa.
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
DOLLAR, LIFE SAVER.

SEATTLE, Wash. April 26.-To a silver dollar, Thomas Dunbar. q realty agent. attributes the saving of his life today when Buck Leo a former res taurant keeper, fired point blank at his breast Dunbar was stunned by the blow of the, bullet striking the silver in vest pocket
 Apparently under the impression that Dunbar al least had been wound cd Leo shot himself and died soon afterwards The two had quarreled over roomins house transaction.
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
OLYMPIA DEMOCRATS
 MAKE BRYAN DELEGATE.

OLYMPIA. April 26.-R. Nj. Fuller, chairman of the Thurston county
 Democratic central committee, an nounced tonight that a majority of the delegates from Thurston county had agreed to send the Democratic state convention in May, pledged to work for the selection of William Jennings Bryan of Nebraska as a delegate from Washington state to the national con vention at St Louis. Mir. Fuller an- nounced that action was being taken
 to 'infiict silent rebuke" upon the
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
NlNN

stand pat Democrats of Nebraska who refused to send MT. Bryan to the national convention as a delegate from his home state.
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
FATAL SHOOTING IN rAlLUP, k=N MEXICO

LEN, X. NJ, April 26 Charles NIr H,, bar tender. sh)t and killed 'I}ick Levi. gof Gallup. and i."scf 70
 wounded Henry Moore lato ,lii- af-
 iternoon inAa saloon h3.s. ;loore, whose home is at Plainviev, Neh:as- .ka. wt&s., en to an Albuquerque hos ,, .tag Murray's only statement. was !tlaf he Fad to kill them. H. IS uft
 'de{ arys 3
Bisbee daily review., 1916-04-27
GEN. REYES 10 SURRENDER.

TORREON, Mex. April 26.-AIter a conference today with General Ire vino General Jose A. Gaziola, chief of the medical staff of the Carranza army announced that satisfactory arrange ments had been made for the sur render of Canuto Reyes and his lieut. enants. All have accepted amnesty on terms offered by General Trevino.
The Topeka state journal., 1916-11-02
WHEAT THIEVES ARE ACTIVE.
Whole Wagon Loads of Grain Stolen
From Hoisington Mills.

Hoisington, Kan, Nov. with
wheat nearing the two dollar mark
on local markets, western Kansas has
started sending in reports of the lat
est form of specialized thieving-the
wheat thief. A full grown man can
easily carry ten dollars worth of wheat
and the thieves often get away with
as much as a wagon load at a time,
stealing it from the open and unpro-
tected granaries which are common in
fields.
Henry McAfee, a big wheat grower
of Barton county, had nearly all the
wheat in one of his open granaries
stolen last week and finally nabbed the
thieves when they came at night with
a grain wagon.
Car thieves have been causing some
trouble here by boring holes in wheat
cars and letting the grain run out on
the ground while the cars are stand
ing on the siding. In one case an
elevator bought wheat stolen from it's
own cars.
The Topeka state journal., 1916-11-02
NOT AN EGG IN WHOLE TOWN.
Stores and Houses in Scott City With
out Hen Fruit All Day.

Scott City, Kan, Nov. 2.-For the
first time within the memory of
many of it's oldest citizens Scott City
was eggless Tuesday. That is, there
wasn't a single shellful of eatable hen
fruit to be had at any of the stores
and judging from the number of calls
for eggs from customers, there were
few larders in the city that were much
better off from an egg standpoint.
The reason for this unusual scarcity
of eggs at this time of year is a puz-
zle. So far this year the weather has
been mild and entirely conducive to
good egg-laying. The whims of hens
is a problem, however, that neither
grocers nor anybody else seems able to
solve.
Relief. from the egg famine seems
to be forthcoming only from the i'm
portation of the cold storage brand.
The local retailers are so accustomed
to depending on country produce to
supply their demand for eggs that the
sudden exhaustion of this source has
placed them squarely in line for the
cold storage egg statesmen.
The Topeka state journal., 1916-11-02
LOVES HIS ENEMIES
Won Hindenburg Wants Peace for
ssWhole Blood Stained World"

London, Nov. 2.-The Berlin Vor-
werts, commenting on the interview
with Field Marshal Won Hindenburg
yesterday in which he discussed many
phases of the war, says, according to
a Berlin dispatch forwarded by Am
sterdam:
HE advises France to be reasonable
and not to act as a further obstaNe to
peace. This advice will have a better.
chance of being heard abroad if we
show ourselves reasonable too. If we
are going to draw this war on indefi-
nitely then the whole of Europe will
bleed to death and America and the
colored races would be our heirs
But we want Europe to live not
Germany only, but all the nations
said Won Hindenburg. We want
France to live. We see her now bleed
ing white but we have never hated
her. We want peace also for England
and Russia, peace for the whole
blood-stained world"