davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08
Dignity and Splendor the Keynote of Winter Fash ions The Touch of Gold Transforms a Black Gown Sumptuous Fabrics That Might
 Be Woven of Cloth of Gold Yet Have
 Light and Cinging Qualities.

TT is to be golden season. Any of
 H the openings that are drawing
 E femininity from far and near
 @ from the great stone palaces of upper Fifth avenue, from the even greater stone apartment houses that flank street after street of the west side, from cosy stucco homes in the suburbs of Westchester, the North Shore. the Oranges-it Is a golden season that women come to consider and enthuse over and plan for.
 The costumes themselves foretell it in their rich hues of bronze and brown with ruddy dashes of autumn color; in their neutral tones frightened by gold embroideries or rows of the fash ionable stitching done with silk thread, in their creamy whites with gold lace and in their airy blacks, also with gold lace and great golden roses to give the accentuating touch. And these golden costumes are dis played against backgrounds that bring them out to perfection; against rugs and draperies of golden tones. or black with weird Chinese figures in dull gold. Great golden chrysanthemums, vivid nasturtiums and pale tea roses stand about in jars of brass or jugs of Rookwood pottery. It all makes picture that one will not soon forget; this promise of the Midas season of 1916. Away back in the fifteenth cen tury king of France spread his golden carpet, the Field of the Cloth of Gold, to do homage to an English king. In this twentieth century year 1t is the French coutouriere, who spreads the Field of the Cloth of Gold for the enhancement of women the world over. and perhaps the splendor of this season will go down in the annals of dress as an unforgettable season, just as the exploit of Francis
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

the First has become an unforgettable happening in history.
 Golden Tones Even In Street Costume.
 Glance at the windows of the big shops, these days, and you will note the preponderance of brown and gold tones in tailored garb. Stunning suits of copper brown. chocolate brown. coffee brown cloth have silk stitching in gold thread, embroidered motifs done with gold floss and the touch of beaver or skunk fur that brings out the color scheme. Brown velvet hats accompany these tailleurs, or black hats with unique ornaments of gold lace or beads; even the smart walking boots are of tabasco brown glazed kid; or of black kid with buttoned tops in the fashionable tabasco color.
 But 1t is with evening gowns we have to deal today, fascinating as the fall tailored models are; and in even ing gowns particularly has Paris found opportunity to revel in golden gleams and glints. The Midas touch is everywhere, in wonderful gold faces. in ld-embroidered tissues, in sump- tuous brocades that look as though they could stand by their own weight yet are astonishingly light and soft to the touch. There are brocades for evening wraps combining mammoth gold roses and black velvet grounds in such patterns as were never seen before and there are gold tissues as fine and soft as chiffon itself. Gold tulle there is. also, to float about the shoulders in scarf fashion or in layer upon layer in filmy dance frocks.
 Some of the jeweled and spangled trimmings shown for new evening frocks are Oriental in suggestion and are so heavy that, used on a dance frock of tulle or net, they must be supported by featherbone hoops run
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08
Crepe Lauishly Used inMourningFrocks

IA EVER have mourning dresses H possessed more charm and dis
 tinction than they do, these days of materials in contrast. Bands of crepe or scant ruffles of crepe are set all the way up skirts of black Georgette or chiffon, and the short ness of all frocks, making a display of slim ankles and dainty buttoned boots or slippers. gives the mourning costume a less somber. woe-begone air. Silk frocks of black taffeta or faille matinee are distended at the hem by facings and have tucked or corded panels and tabliers of the silk hanging straight from the girdle Black fox fur. dull jet beads and quantities of crepe are used to trim mourning frocks for formal occasions Simple frocks of black albatross, mo- hair or mohair and worsted mixture are tucked and corded and have broad cuffs and collars of hemmed organdie or white Georgette.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

a band going around the figure under the armpits Over this band is a swathing of tulle, and the shoulder straps serve to hold up the whole-if one may call such an apology for
 bodice a whole" Of course, the structure of tulle and shoulder straps is draped over a carefully fitted foundation, for the waistline must be small and trim this season, in evening gowns at least. Featherbone woven girdelin, which is shaped to the figure and fits exquisitely into the curve of the waistlne makes an excellent
 foundation for draped evening
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

gown. The craze that has spread over the country for Hula dances and Hawaiian songs played on the uku- lale ("u-ka-lay-le" as the natives of Hawaii pronounce it), has found ex- pression in costume and new evening gowns are trimmed with double looped feather fringes. Jenny started this fad and picture of one of Jennys feather-fringed frocks is shown on today's page. This costume is made of gold-colored soiree silk and the ostrich fringes match in tone. The pleated silk tunics are faced with an inch or two of stiffening so that they swing and sway with each movement of the wearer, displaying the delicate ostrich fringe to advantage. The bodice has a deep fitted girdle and a little bolero of the golden soiree silk and gold tulle is draped over bust and shoulders.
 Black Velvet And Gold.
 Nothing shows off gold fabric like black velvet; and vice versa. Doucet has brought out a dance frock of black panne velvet with pointed, looped tunic over. a petticoat of gold lace, and draped panne bodice over yoke and sleeve-puffs of gold lace. At the girdle is a golden rose. A brilliant gown pictured. is of black velvet striped with gold tissue. If the skirt suggests a striped sport garment it is none the less authoritative as an ex- ample of new evening costume. And note its new length to the instep-a axc11Icixrn v1tra in this length. The bodice is made of gold lace and gold-colored ribbon, and gold tissue rose nestles in a band of black fur at the waistline.
 Another black evening gown pie tured shows gold bead and jet em- broidery on black tulle. The em- broidered skirt hangs in straight lines, but over it floats an Oriental sort of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

ed sleep, a walk. however brief, in the fresh air. and time to dress, bathe and attend to the everyday matters of the toilet which. neglected. make one soon feel like jaded. discouraged wreck. 4a,.4 sNSs
 composed and smiling face must always be presented to the patient; the mother who cannot keep distress and worry out of her eyes should hire an outside nurse. no matter what it costs her. An immeasurable part of the cure depends upon the patients utter trust and confidence in the face that bends over, the bed. Sick eyes read their hope or their doom in the eyes that gaze down at them, and the amateur nurse must learn to be cheer ful, calm. firm when painful things must be endured or hateful medicines taken, and must be always bringer of peace and of hope to the sufferer.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

related to her by no ties of kinship or friendship, earns every bit of her stipend, but too often the price of her services is far beyond what her employers ought to afford except in the case of most serious illness. Tn the old days, when there were no trained nurses, every mother made 1t her business to acquire knowledge valu- able in the sick room; if she did not set herself to learn it, racking experf- ence sooner or later taught it to her.
 No mother should take upon her self the sole care of a sick child. There must be helper to relieve her of the harder tasks in keeping the room and bed in order, to run errands, to answer the telephone, to see call CTS, to carry trays to and from the kitchen, and-most important of all ito relieve the mother-nurse at cer- tain hours so that she may have need
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

dancing skirt, several yards in width and distended by featherbone tubing hidden under a trimming of sequins., There is faring tulle peplum dis tended in the same fashion at the hip. The finishing touch on this costume is bar pin of gold and topaz, which fastens one of the tulle shoulder straps.
 Very splendid truly, is the opera gown of gold-colored velvet draped in cascade effect below the hips, the veil vet trailing down to merge with the folds of gold-eolored tulle that form short train. This gold tulle starts at the shoulder in short sleeve drap- cry, is drawn to the waistline, where the tulle forms butterfly sash-bow, and then flows downward over the skirt in loops and folds to make the train. Superb Is the stomacher orna- ment of amber and crystal beads which accomplishes a bodice front, with long fringes that hang over the skirt.
 Gold and white evening gowns are replacing the silver and white models that were the rage this summer. There is an opulence about the gold and white gown that makes it more suitable for winter than the moon- light gleam of white and silver, which was so exquisite on summer night. The gold and white dance frock pie tured is from Beer. The floating tunic of white tulle is embroidered with delicate design in gold thread at the corners and beneath is skirt of silver lace. The fitted bodice Is of white satin with embroidery of gold beads crystal and jet.
 Flamingo red and nasturtium yellow have come in with the favor for gold. A wonderful new evening gown for a. young matron is of f1amingo red chif- ion velvet with tulle of the same shade
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

iy careful coiffure is being made. The hair, first shampooed to beautiful fuffiness, is waved in large, loose waves. either with patent curlers. hot irons. or the tedious .water-wave process which is worth while because it gives the most natural effect of all Then with a clean tooth brush dip up a very little brilliantine and pass the brush lightly over the waves. Arrange the hair immediately and put on a net to keep the waves from falling out of place. The hair should have a furnished appearance as though it had been brushed for hours till every hair gave out glint of soft light.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

R HERE is more and more ten
 a dency, these modern days of spe-
 - cializing in everything, to send for a trained nurse the moment sick ness develops in the home. Partly through distrust of her own capabili- ties, partly through fear of that dread thing-illness and its possible conse- quence that ones very heart refuses to face, and perhaps sometimes through incidence. the modern moth ern refuses to accept the responsibil- ity of the sick room, and because 1t is so very easy to summon trained helper who will shoulder all the re- sponsibility end all the distasteful tasks of the sick room, telephones post haste for an experienced nurse at an enormous wage Undoubtedly the nurse, considering her ministra- tions to her patient, her loss of sleep, her sacrifice of self to people who are
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08
Stomachers In Jeweled Effect.

bodice.
 Stomachers In Jeweled Effect.
 In the bands of rich fabric which form the upper part of many new evening bodices there is opportunity for use of splendid fabrics. There are almost-made bodices on display in the trimming departments: affairs of hand-run net and lace, or of gold embroidered tissue with shoulder straps attached, all ready to be added to several yards of tulle-and be- hold! One has a fashionable dance frock. Hawaiian fringes of ostrich are another trimming for the evening
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-10-08

AA NE cannot be lazy and possess @ M beautiful hair-unless Nature W has been very. very generous in
 V her gift of naturally luxuriant, wavy, fluffy tresses; and not to one woman in hundred is Nature thus kind. Ordinary heads of hair require regular and unremitting attention to look their best; many heads of hair require such attention to look well at all; but no feature of beauty responds more quickly and satisfactorily to the right sort of care than the tresses that-uncared for-are too often woman's chief detriment rather than her rightful crown of beauty.
 If ever there is a time when the hair needs special attention. that time is the autumn. Summer suns, sum- mer winds and summer seas have done their utmost to spoil the beauty of the locks It is difficult, too, to sham poo the hair properly while one is sojourning at a summer hotel--one is
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-06-23
| TEDESCHI ATTACCANO
IRUSSI NELLA VOLTNTA
81 Dice Che Won Mackensen E.
ALA Testa delle Fore Teu-
toniche dell'Est

I'm telegramma da Petrograd dice che
tire armate tedesche. probabilmente agli
ordln del maresciallo Won Mackensen,
hanno preso roffensiva contro lie forze russo
del generate Brusllon che nela regione
di Vladimir Volinsk minacciano Ia base
tedesca di Kovel la fortezza di Lemberg.
L'ala sinistra russa procede vlttoriosa nella
sua marcia attraverso la Bucovina ricac-
ciando indietro le forze austriache del gen.
erale Pfanzer. Parte di queste forze hanno
dovuto rfugarsi in territorio rumeno, dove
saranno certamente internate sino ALA fine
della guerra. L'altra parte e. in ritirata
vers Carpazil, ma seguta davvicino dalla
cavaleria cosacca che non lie da uuartiere.
Un telegramma da Atene dice che sara
presto tolto II blocco che gil alleati avevano
stabilize sulle coste della Grecia, avendo II
governo greco acetate lie domande degli
alleati. La smobilitazione dellescercito
greco lascia prevedere una prossma often
silva degli aleati dalla zona di Salonicco.
diretta specialmente contro lie forze bulgare
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-06-23

that the Irish rebellion has been renewed
and that the British Government is sup
pressing the news. American reports are
probably the exaggerated outgrowth of de
scriptions OF scenes attending recent flu
nerals of Sim Fein victims of the rebellion
Meanwhile. though opposition to the pro-
jected settlement of the Irish question
which developed within the cabinet itself
came as an unpleasant surprise, there has
been no really serious hitch i'm the negotia-
tions which are expected to be advanced
to an important stage by today's Nationalist
conference at Belfast.
At the Belfast conference Devlin. who
will be supported by Redmond and Dillon,
is threatened by the opposition of the Cath
ullc Bishops Of Ulster. Doctor Machugh.
Bishop Of Derry, published letter stating
that he and Cardinal Jogue Bishop Mac
Rory and Bishop McEnna, whose control ex-
tends over the six excluded counties, are
against the Loyd-George proposals.
There is little expectation that the Bel
fast conference will vote against the Lloyd
George proposals.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-06-23

Industrial Commercio, barone Ezio Nor
purge. deputato di Cividale.
Agricoltura. avv. Giuseppe Canepa, depu-
tato Ill Geneva J.
Poste on. Rossf
La Camera del Deputati e. convocata per
quail II nuovo ministero fara' lie sue dichia-
razioni, lie sedute saruno aggiornate, non
pero' prima d aver votato | credit prov
vsorii fino al 81 discembre del corrente
ammo.
Dopo che lie navi da guerra aileate
avevano bloccato porti della Grecia dopo
che gil alleati avevano preso attire misure
di rigore per rispondere allatteeRiamento
sempre pu' favorevole agll imperi centrali
che IL governo di Skuludis andava assu-
mendo. II governo greco ha ceduto ed ha
accordato tutte lie dotnande presentate dale
potente della Quadruplice. e cioe':
Vera completa smobiltaziono delreser-
cto greco mel piu breve tempo possible
Immediate sostituzione del gabinetto
Skulddis con un gabinetto sensa cOlore po-
litco ed offrente lutte lie necessarie garan-
ze per una benevola neutralita' verso lie
uotenze della Quadruplice.
Immemidato scioglimento della Camera
del Deputat segui to da nuove elezloni gen.
erali mel periodic di tempo stabilize dalla
costtuzione soltanto dopo che sara stata
completata la smobiltazione dell'esercito e
rimeso IL corpo electorate nellie sue cond.
zioni normali.
Sostitublone d certi funzonari II cui at
tegiamento, lspirato da influence straniere.
ha facilitate attentati contro pacihci cit
tadini ed INSULT contro lie legasioni degli
alleat quet che ST trovavano soto la
loro gurisdizlone
Mentre 81 aspetta che lie domande sIano
messe in alto. ST dice che una suuadra
navale alleata soto gil ordint dell 'ammi-
raglio francese Moreau ha avuto ordine di
incrociare davanti al Pireo, che 81 sono
fatti | preparativi per 10 sbarco di reparti
armati
L'accettazione delle domande degli aleati
e. stata communicate al ministro d Francia
da Alessandro Zaimis II che ia supporre
che questi abba sostituIto Skuludis nella
presldenza del Consiglio greco 81 dice che
zaimis e. neutralista, ma ha smpatie per
gil alleati
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-06-23
BLOCKADE OF GREECE
TO BE RAISED AT ONCE
Athens Hints at Return of Eleu-
therios Venizelos to Premier
ship After Demobilization
ATHENS. June "a.


The blockade placed upon Greek shipping
by the Allies to enforce their ultimatum is
expected to be raised at once as a rsult
OF the acceptance of the demands Of Eng
land France and Russia by the Greek Gov
ernment. lntimaton that such action would
be taken was given today by the ministers
Of the Entente Powers.
As soon as the rehabilitation of the
Greek Army Is brought about general elec-
tions will be held.
In the meantime Alexandra zaimis is act
Ing as premier, but 1t rs believed that il
will not be long until Eleutherios Veni-
zelos, the most aggressive of the pro-AlIy
leaders, will be at the head of the Gov
ornment.
Following are the demands made upon
Greece by the Allies and accepted by the
Greek Government:
First. Real and complete rehabilitation
Of the Greek army, which must. with the
least possible delay, be placed on n peace
footing
Second. The immediate replacing of the
present Greek Cabinet by a business cab
met having no political color and Offering
all necessary guarantees for the applica-
ton of benevolent neutrality toward the
Allied Powers and sincere consultation of
the national wishes.
Third. The immediate dissolution of
the Chamber, followed by new elections
after the period required by the Constitu-
ton and after general rehabilitation has
restored the electoral body to normal con-
dtions.
Fourth. Replacement of certain police
functIonaries, whose attitude inspired by
foreign influence, has facilitated attempts
against peaceable citizens as we'll as insults
against the Allied legations and those under
their Jurisdiction"
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1916-06-23
CONQUISTE ITALIANE
LUNG0 LA VALLARSA;
UN NOTEVOLE BOTTTN0
Armi Munizioni Catturate dagli
Italiani in Piccoli Combatti-
menti ad Ovest del Lago
di Garda
IL MINIsTERo COMPLETE
ROMA. "a Ginpn,

ROMA, % Giugno
Tn communicate ufHcale pubhlicato oggi
dal Ministero della Guerra dice che gil
italiani hanno conuuistato nuove posizionl
nella Vallarsa lungo la quale hanno iniziato
un movmento offensive, II communicate
dice:
Nela Vallarsa moi abbiamo occupato
nuove posizioni al di la d Ron1ini ad est
del picco di Meszana sui costone del Lora,
ad ovest del Monte Pasubio.
Fucii. munizloni bombe sono state da
moi prese al nemico.
Lungo la fronte Posina -Astico 81 O.
avuta attlvita al artiglieria da ambe lie
parti.
Ecco II testo complete del rapporto del
generate Cadorna pubbiCato Qui erl sora
dal Ministero della Guerra:
Martedl II nemico attacco' lie nostre
posizion nella Vale di Ledro sulle
pendc merdional del Monte Sperone,
ma dopo un vivace combattimento fu
completamente respinto
Teri dal Lago di Garda ALA vale del
rAstico 81 ebbero dueli di artiglieria
piccoli combattimenti nei quail le
nostre truppe presero al nemico una
mtragliatrice, numerosi fucil ed una
quantita' di munizonl.
Sull'altopiano d Asiago, ad eccezi.
one di piccoli attacchi in dirczone di
Monte Magnabosch nellie vicinanze
d Mandriele. ad ovest di Marcesna, IL
nemico rimase strettamente sula di.
fensva resistendo accantamente ALA
nostra avanzata G contestandoci IL ter
reno passo per passo.
La nostra artigleria di crosse cali.
bro ha di nuovo bombardato la stazione
ferroviarla di Toblach nela vale della
Drara.
Nessuna novita 81 ha da regstrare
sulla fronte delIsonzo.
Tn aeroplano austriaco ha lancato
un numero dl bombe sulla cittadna dl
Bassano. senza pero' rluscIre caus-
are damn serli cd far vittime.
Giunge notizia da Parigi che una barca
italana, Maria fu incendata martedi da
un sottomarlno tedesco. a quanto afferma
un communicate pubblicato Madri e
trasmesso allAgenzia Havas. L'equipagglo
fu salvato
| nuovi sottosegretarii dl State hanno pre-
state giuramento oggi nellie mani del presl-
dente del consglio. on. Paolo BoselI. EssI
sono:
Colonie, conte Pletro Foscarl, deputato
d Mrano.
INTERIM, avv. Giacomo Boncell, deputato
d Brescia
Finance, avv. Gualtlero Daniel, deputato
di Tregnago.
Transport, prof Ugo Ancona, deputato dl
Gemona.
Giustzla on. Vassallo.
Lavori PubbIcl, avv Roberto De Vito,
deputato di Glullanova
IstruaIone prof Angelo Roth, deputato
di Alghero