The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1916-12-04

Having w nat lhS OiiidH w hS
Buys should Know About Dress Ma
terials'' as his subject. Mr.. w. L.
Austin. merchandise manager Of MIL
Ter and Rhoads, made helpful and
interesting talk Friday before the
home economics section of the Vir-
ginia Educational Conference. He
said:
In years gone by the matter of
personal appearance and neatness in
dress was not stressed among all
classes SO much as in our present
day life" declared Mr.. Austin.
To have a Sunday best, which was
also used for all special occasions,
was the rule in almost every house
hold.
Before the day of the paper pat
tern, which Is now an Indispensable
part of the dressmaking program. the
usual style was the tight waist and
full skirt; and nine out OF ten pur-
chases of dress materials were made
up in this popular fashion.
Whether the sleeves travelled from
the tight-titting. through the mazes OF
the bishop, leg-o'-mutton. OF plando-
lin belt style. through the hell-fiared.
seven gored. or full pleated fashion;
and whether bustles, hip-pads. hoops
or erinoline were used. the usual an
swer to the customers query OF How
shall ! make this dress?' was, Well.
/ would suggest that you make II tight
waist and full skirt.
But In this day and time. when
we are living three years In one. and
styles change with the wintry winds
or the summer zephyrs. the woman
who would make dress for herself
or her daughter first pays visit 10
the pattern counter.
She has already decided whether
the dress is to he for street wear. or
travel, or whether for evening wear
or Sunday service: and she selects
from the illustrated styles the one
best suited to her taste and purpose.
provided with this chart, with ev-
cry fold, seam and connection notched
or indicated, she is ready to purchase
her materials at the dress goods
counter.
Now comes the question OF what
the woman who buys should know
about dress materials
Must Analyze Subject.
First, We must analyZe the sub
tect, and we find that purchasers of
dress materials must be divided Into
three classes, and so their needs are
taken In the following order:
First. style.
Second, quality.
Third, price.
We must take for granted that
every purchaser of dress materials
wants her finished garment to be
stylish and she also wants good quail
ity. Costly thy habit as thy purse
can buys is true guide today, as 1t
was in Shakespeare's time. although
many buy silks on cotton salary,
because someone else wears silks.
THE adage of today for the one
at tsnFY
salury should be she who must count
the cost will find her wardrobe suit
ably filled. If she allows neatness to
be the keynote. and suitability mark
her choice
"In the manufacture of dress ma
terials there are four principal classes
OF fabrics used--wool, silk, linen and
cotton.
ITO arrive at what the purchaser
should know. let w first look into
what our three classes who buy dress
materials viii want.
s.F.aFs&-Gtyle:- woman tn whom
style ia paramount. and the cost price
and wearing qualities are not con-
sidered. To have such a taste one
should also possess the means; and
We can all imagine what comfort 1t
would be TO be able to say give mo
twenty yarls or this brocAde silk.
please without having to ask the
price.
Change Apparel often
'.rhe woman Who demands style
above all else must change her ap-
parel often. as last weeks styles are
today; SO she never gets
the maximum wear out Of a dress
before II Is cast aside for q newer
fad.
Her wants are generally supplied
from the lighter weight materials
which lend themselves freely to the
fieeting fashions of the moment and
much wear.
"Such AZ Gibbons. seorgette crepes.
chiffon broadcleths, crepe de chimes.
moon-glo' sAtins, etc; dainty materials
whose shimmering sheen bespeaks
their worth and whose ripping folds
bewitch the eye. The wearing quality
of q piece OF dress material does not
appeal to her. nor does the low price
tempt her In her selection Of dress
material. for these are not the pro-
teges OF style.
Now, let US SEQ what number two
will want. whom she comes ashopping
for drese materials. She wants style
and she wants good quality. but she
wants durability, also: for she does
not cast q garment aside 20 quickly.
~ number one. When she makes Q
dress she does not se.ect the ultra
freak style (which win DO popular
only a few days and which II design
ed only for those who can AFFORD q
new dress as often ~ they desire; but
she selects pattern whose style will
endure for whole season.
Then for next enaa0n ahA kakAn fhia