davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30
DOLLS TO SHOW HISTORY OF
DRESS.
THE evolution Of women's dress

THE evolution Of women's dress
for the past 1000 years will be
illustrated at the fashion expo
sition to be held coincident with the
National Federation Of Woman's Clubs
convention May "a to June 3 In Madi-
son Square Garden. Critic, creator and
just plain everyday lover of good
clothes-the last meaning the unso-
phist!cated public generally-will have
a chance to recognize just what have
been the inadequate. discarded in
huenceS and the adequate, re-
tained influences brought to bear
upon feminine attire up TO date.
Mrs. Charles Hewitt Wright Of Pitts
field. Mass. who has devoted her life
to this study since tho early ago Of
8, when she first put scissors into a
worsted doll. has prepared Q lecture on
the subject OF Influences on Women's
Wear" illustrated by doll mannequins
in the attire of periods from 800 A. D.
down to the present.
Among the costumes shown will be
an English woman In the year 800, a
French lady OF rank in the year 500,
Byzantine costume Of 900, a French
queen, 100; Empress Anna Of Ger
many. 1881: the steeple headdress OF
the fourteenth century: consort Of
Charles TX. Of France. 1914; Dutch
lady OF rank. sixteenth century: Span
ish lady. 1896: favorite court costume
Of Marie Antoinette and costumes of
h pompadour period.
From the pompadour period tho
present fashions Of l915.lsl6 largely
derived their inspiration. There will
also he shown the proper costumes
for trained nurses. children's nurses
and other servants, and the costume
OF the Scotch "fisherwoman. which 10
not without its influence on present
day apparel. though It has remained
unchanged for 500 years. The up to
date American costumes for spring
and summer, 1915. will also be shown
and a forecast for the fall will be given.
In her lecture Mrs. Wright will dis
cuss the effect Of peace and war, kings
and %peasantry. climate and environ
ment upon the common and uncom-
mo- fads and fashions VI woman. An
other feature of the fashion show Will
be the country club and beach scene
for the exploiting Of sports costumes
and bathing suits on living. models.
One OF the novelties will be n COM
bination bathing and sports costume,
suitable for water, land or air. Many
new devices In parasols to match beach
costumes. as well a. In the costumes
themselves. will DO shown.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30

her face del.ghtful.y before starting
on its sloping. downward way.
White sat!r-an ivory Nhite-and
black velvet were the materials. anG.
would lend themselves admirably to
any color worn under them. but the
model IS copied IN other color.ngs and
even in one tone effect.
These Ions. all e~nveloping capes are
multiplying and are promised con
siderable g during the summe
months, being easily thrown on owe
airy toilets and exceedingly pic
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30

plic,ty carried to the point OF aNecta-
ton.
Particularly IN the province OF the
separate coats ana capoS are the COZ
.ars fantastic and picturesque. The
topcoat n ordinary stree, or motor
coat may be conventional enough as TO
collar. though even there one finds
curious effects sometimes, but when
a designer steps into the realm o. the
evening COa and cape or of the
DRESSER carriage cloak he turns an
cifulsent fancy loose, particularly in
regard 70 the collar.
The collar IL the crux OF the chic
wrap to-day said tho importer who
showed the back and white cape Of
our large group. 1T gives the wraps
,ts character. has everything TO do
with the way the wearer looks in the
model"
The manncquin wearcr looked un-
commonly well IN that black and white
model. She was long and slim enough
to carry the fun folds and tho horizon
tai bands. and tho BrobdingiEagian COL
lar OF black velvet could not make
her look dressy. out rose to frame
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30

embroidery Of dark blue. Embroid-
cries. by the way. are almost all Of the
spidery sort, traceries rather han
massed motifs. though tho latter are
occasionally used by ali the designers,
Dark blue and biscuit or beige or
any one Of the shades related to these
two Is another combination OF color
much used by both milliners and dress
makers. but next the face these neu.
trail tones are exceedingly trying and
tie knowing mllllner uses a dark fac
Ing or brim or fold 10 keep q beige hat
from asking too much Of the wearar,s
complexion, while the charming bSagS
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30
T0DAY's BEAUTY TALK

You can make a delightful shampoo
with very little effort and for a very
trihing cost. II you get from your
druggist a package Of canthrox and
dissolve a t%easpoonful in a cup OF hot
water. Your shampoo IL now ready.
Just pour a little at a time on the
scalp and rub briskly. This creates an
abundance Of thick, white lather that
thoroughly dissolves inc the
dandrur. excess oil and dirt. After
rinsing, the hair dries quickly. with a
GUINNESS that makes IL seem heavier
the0 II IL, and takes on a rich luster
1t . pleasure.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30
black stripe.

taffeta had It's ends bordered in black
but by way Of avoiding suRges-
ton Of mourning a bunch Of coral and
purple flowers was tucked into this
sirdle.
There Is. too, an extraordinarily lika-
the Fifth avenue shops whose general
character Is rather like that Of the
white and black costume. though de-
tails differ. Tho lower part OF the full,
wide skirt Is Of dark blue taffeta, the
upper skirt and bodice are of pale pink
taffeta and %chifson--a shade slightly
deeper and pinksr than nesh color.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30

The borders OF the chiffon are emrboi-
dered in narrow tracery OF dark blue.
This scheme Of dark blue and pale
pink occurs often In frOcks. blouses
and millinery. and some Of the prettiest
blouses made 10 accompany dark blue
suits-particularly the dressier suits OF
dark blue taffeta-are Of pale pink
chiffon or Georgette with narrow bor-
ders of dark blue chiffon and a little
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30

ing bottom OF the skirt were Of black
tareta as lustrous as the white.
The sleeves were quite short, a fea-
ture OF many OF this seasons models.
and white chiffon softened the square
neck line. while in the back a big
square collar OF white chiffon. bordered
in black chiffon. fell from the top of
a high taffeta fold that lay up against
the neck. The sash girdle Of white
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30

very clear.
We are told that IN Russia an &.
America blue IS used in the i.crdrl-
ton OF the outfit for a baby e 80
parents desire a 10y and pink 4 10
preference IS FOR n girl. and then -
old stork brings just Whichever ora
he pleases regardless Of tho q .N-
scheme; so the wise mother us~s ,,'a
pink and blue in her layette. \ RS
sian maiden no only wears pin. N
her r'rlhood. but adorns her W. ~
trousseau nlentifu,lY With mr. -
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30
WHY PINK FOR A BABY GIRL

wv IIiY pink for The girl baby a.l
w blue Cor the boy? TIE ,,l-
son fo- TIE distinction - 40:
The sun., 1916-10-28
Another Menace to the Forests.

We directed attention recently To-
attacked the hickory trees in com
munitieS near New York. arousing
fears among land owner and woods
mel that these fine Americans may suf-
fer the same fate that overlook the
che>tnuts. The American Forestry
Association now ISSUES II warning that
the white pine blister rust menaces
rlnus strobus, one of the most impor-
tant timber trees of the continent.
1t is estimated that S26l 100000
worth of trees are in danger. The
disease is present in the forests Of
Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont.
Massachusetts, Connecticut. Rhode
Island. New York, New Jersey, Penn
s%ylvania. Wisconsin. Minnesota, and in
the provinces of Ontario and Quebec
in CANADA. New York and Wi>con-
sin have established quarantines, and
several State agricultural boards have
adopted measures to prevent the ship.
mcnt of infected white pines, currant
and goosclerry bushes.
As in III" case Of the chestnut
blight. no cure for the disease is
known. Affected trees are doomed.
and spores are blown In currant and
coosebcrry leaves. on which they
terminate. Infected leaves produce
millions of spores. which are carried
by the wind for miles. poisoning the
pines on which they lodge.
The American Forestry Association
urges tree and shrub owners wher-
ever the white pine blister rust has
appeared, IL destroy currant and
g%ooseberry bushes. diseased white
pines and those that have been cx-
posed to infection. by these heroic
measures the spread of the rust will
certainly he retarded and may he con
! trollcd. Meantime II Is obvious that
the authorities should take vigorous
action Ia enforce effective regulation
against the transportation of diseased
| shrubs and trees In interstate and
intrastate commerce.
The sun., 1916-10-28

That honor" means surrcndcr.
That nominal peace means actual
war.
That fair play 10 the people means
keeping secret until after election the
Lusi,ania reply Of February IL.
That UNFOLDING American rights
means delay in refusing $1,000 for
every L.usitan.a life.
That temporary imaginary gain for
labor means more han steady progress
through arbitration.
That "c,v!l service" means reward OF
politicians.
Thai, "saiutInr the Nag" means
trampling upon it.
That preparedness means the rcsig-
nation OF the War secretary who advo-
Gated II.
That devotion to public service
means Bryan. Daniels. Baker, ct al.
Tia; economy" means unprecedented
Wast-fuincSs.
That needed appropriations means
pork barrel.
That eight hour law" means one
tempting men To work beyond ,lsh;
hours FOR extra pay.
That a proper tariN" means one
which had us at tho verge Of panic
until war came.
That firm goycrnment' means vacil-
lation. tcmpurizing. compromise and
abdication of principle.
That declaration for a single term
means playing politics FOR a second term.
That prom!s" 10 reduce cost 90! Nv
ing means unparalleled increase.
That hero OF our Revolution" means
Mexican Jrigand.
The sun., 1916-10-28
For the Court OF General Sessions.

Judge DELEHASTy. who happens to
he n Democrat. should he reelected
by the combined votes of Republicans
and Democrats because he Is Il good
Judge and 1t is to the public interest
to keep him on the bench.
This Is n case where the straight
and plain and true principle of judi
cial elections applies, If 1t ever APP
plies. Judge DELEHASTy was APP
pointed to the bench for fitness. by II
Republican Governor. lie has iusti-
fed that appointment 10y servic"
which the Non-Partisan judiciary
Committee Describes rs having won
unusual praise" The qualities AS
cribed To him by the same close oh
pcnology, extraordinary Industry and
sound and humane Judgment" There
has never been the least question of
his great usefulness in this important
criminal court.
Judge DELEHANTI, as was proper,
received both the Republican and the
Progressive nominations for Judge of
General Sessions. In the Democratic
primaries about $500 Of the votes
cast were for him. He deserved the
Democratic nomination and he dc-
serves the votes on election day Of
all independent Democrats who be-
lirve that partisan politics should not
control the courts.
The sun., 1916-10-28
How Mr.. Wilson Saved the Pieces.

Mr.. WILSON must regard as I'M
timely and awkward the debate in
the House of Lords upon recent Ger
man submarine activities, with par
ticular reference Ia the exploits of
C-l3 on Nantucket. Baron REREs.
FORD and Baron S%yDENHAM, both naval
authorities of the first order, mnde
some embarrassing comments (cm-
barrasslng from Mr.. WILSON'S point
Of view upon the presence of United
States destrOyers when Captain HANS
ROSE sank one merchant ship after
another. including the Stephano,
which carried passengers. Baron
| BEREsFoRD did moi hesitate to say
| that the action of the United States
In sending d%estroyers To the scene
was mot quite within the bounds of
! neutrality: and Baron SYDENHAM
took the view 1--WE quote from II Lon
don dcspatch) that the presence Of
American warShips actually enabled
Germany to defy what President VII.
son had described rs II sacred and
indispulable rule of international
law"
As these eminent critics are known
to he humane gentlemen, 1t cannot
be the cnsc that they regret the res
cue work of the American ~destroyers,
which brought into N~ewport--a de.
s,royer base, by the wny-236 pas
sengcrs and ~snllors. Had Admiral
GLEAyEs's iOtllln not been rushed out
when the news was flashed to New,
port that the West Point and the
Slratldcne had been %torpcdocd by
I-53 II great many Of the cnstaway'
Of the five ships sunk would have
been drowned, for an hour after the
The sun., 1916-10-28
CauseS Of Confidence.

To THE EDITOR OF THE SCS-Sir. The
President is beaten by the Independent
thinking voters Of the whole country :
by the voters of New Jersey who resent
boss rule from Washington by the in
dependent voters Of New York state
whom he has defed by his Murphy-Sea-
bury-Wilson alliance. Republican sta
bility will succeed this four years polit-
ical mess at Washington. whitman's
triumphant election-and he will lead
Hughes by 20, O0O-will be another re-
hinder to the so-called leaders OF the
Democratic party here that William Sui
zer's Americanism still lives. Against
Mr.. Hughes nothing has been said but
political trash of the rottenest kind.
And the President knows he is beaten
and 81 do his party leaders. II he is
willing. as he says. to abide by the ver-
dict of mankind. he won't have long TO
wait. lie will get it in about Two weeks.
THEoDoRrs VAN WICK.
NEW YORK, October -.
The sun., 1916-10-28
shadow hay at shadow Lawn.

you did not protest then. Mr., Wilson, for
fear You would have To- night. '-J"hn nan
cock. Jr.
They r,.c from the tombs Of the ocean aud
from graves In "A foreign land.
These phantoms that come from another
world to question ami understand;
on the autumn breeze their voices float.
plaintivc and weird and thin.
As they ashland thev get M answer
IL they died for a scarlet sin.
Did they err when they took the word Of
him who promised them on his faith,
Know YOU thu terror that shakes n man
WHO'S facing n chidinG wrath?
That they who sailed on the surging seas
or dwet OIL an alien sod
Could hold the pledge he had made to
them as they'd put their trusi in
God?
Was Il a crime for them to believe our
nag Vas dcnr to the heart Of him
Whose home they haunt as the twilight
comes and tho hopes % day grow
dim?
Vas their sin too dark who would Qurs-
tion him where they train his foot.
steps now.
These souls that were sent 10 an evil fat1
and to death through a broker vow
hut there's never n voice that shall an
swer them. for what could tho an.
swer be?
They died on land, for his oath was false,
or they persisted beneath the sea.
The night grows dark and the phantnns
pass, and never the dead shall know
That the word he spahe was II woakling's
word. the seed that the towards SOW.
EpwApD 3. VAN ZiLE.
The sun., 1916-10-28
what Is the Right Thing 10 DO With
n RO0mful Of Good Magazines!

To THE EDITOR OF THE SuN-Sir: !
have recently come into possession ~ n
room.ul OF old magazines. n lifct!mc's
collection. ! do not want TO give them
away or throw them away before trying
70 sell them. In this day OF paper
shortage 4, seems to me they might hc
valuable perhaps they might be valua-
hle for IL. back numbers ~ such fine
old publications. as the century, Nur-
pcr's and S~cribncr'S, which are among
them. Cannot your readers tell me
what to do with them? T.. :, W. W.
AsBvRY PARK, y. J., October 26.
The sun., 1916-10-28

last person had been taken on board
II destroyer an angry sea sprang up.
the wind blowing half a gale. Naval
officers doubt whether II single II of
the boats dropped from the doomed
ships would have kept atloat.
What did Mr.. WILSON say in his
note to Germany on the william l..
Frye case October IL. 1918? He
declared that 'thc requirement In
Article 30 of the Declaration (of Lon
dom that before the vessel is de-
stroyed all persons on board must he
placed in safety Is not satisfied by
merely giving them an opportunity
to escape in lifeboats." II was this
passage that Baron SyDENHAM must
have had in mind when he spoke of
Germany's defiance of Mr.. WILSON'S
sacred and indisputablc rule Of in
ternational law.
Does Baron SyDENHAM suspect the
President of ordering out the destroyer
iiotilla In the nick Of time. not only
tn perform II service To humanity but
to save the fragments of the sacred
and indisputablc rule Of International
law and obviate the necessity of call
ing Germany to account? The Strnth-
dene and West Point were already at
the bottom of the sea and their crews
tossing in ship boats when Admiral
AUSTIN NJ. KNIGHT. commandment at
Newport, under hurried orders from
Washington. despatched the destroyer
ilotillu to the war zone" of Nam
tuckct. GLE>vEs arrived in time to
save all hands aboard the five mer-
chant vessels shellei and t~orpedoed
between q \. NJ. and 6 +. NJ. (: In fact,
he saw some of the ships founder,
and he stood by To avert any unplcas-
ant consequences 10 the German Gov
eminent. although that was not In
his orders. Afterward the Navy De
partment announced that Captain
HANS Iosr had done his work within
the law.
Ii was u close call for the Admin
istration. If Captain HANS ROSE did
not borrow the American navy for
salvage purposes, he by putting in AT
Newport ave Mr.. WILSON the chance,
which the President eagerly seized
to avoid pressing the principle laid
down in the William l.. Frye ease
Luck was with the Administration
too. Had an American sailor in n boat
of the Strathdenr or of the We>i
Point been drowned before GLEAyES's
de>troyerS raced to the rescue soutl
of Nantucket 1t would not have beer
possible for the Department To testif!
that Captain ltoSE had done his work
within the law. OF curse the state
ment could never have been mad,
without ignoring the cases of tn,
West Point and Strnthdcne. Baror
BtErSFoRD and Baron SypESHAM arc
baying on the trail. but the fox Ia,
run To cover.
The sun., 1916-10-28
The Better Road.

"You ask what roud ! propose TO
travel" Mr.. IIrCHEs said to his audi
cnce In Boston. Then he described
The road he will take.
Were the way stations of Watchful
Waiting. Too Proud to Fight. Serving
Humanity in Mexico, Executive Sur
render. BRYAN, DANIELS and BAKER
on the route?
No. Mr.. HrGHEs. not having II One
Track Mind. will he able 10 run II few
express trains. The road he will
travel has no curves. no open switches,
no broken block signals: and, besides
being straight, 1t is rock ballnsted.
The sun., 1916-10-28
A PitifuI Intellectual CapNze.

We would call attention to this re-
nMrknble utternncc by the World.
III every word that Mr.. HUGHES has
said against President ALLISON were true,
II every Republican indictment against
the Wilson Administration were true. II
every accusation against the President
and hi. associates in Government were
Just and righteous. the peace. the Sc
curlty and the future OF the American
people would still demand the %reelec-
ton OF WOODROW WILSON"
Who will not conclude. upon Tcrus-
ing this. that the WorId has at last
been swnmped by the very effective.
ness of its " campaign?
The sun., 1916-10-28
Has the sparrow RefOr med:

That supposedly incorrigible bird
the English sparrow has counsel he
side IL NJ the bar of h~umanenesS.
where it il 81 continually arraigred
for It's traditional villalnic~. A plea
Is made for 1t by OHr Dnmb inimdis.
which rises tn object To- the suggeS.
ton of the League of American
SpOrtsmen that colleges, schools and
boy scouts be enlisted in n united as
sault on the little bcggar. The moral
contention of the defence l. that the
character of Il child mus; suffer from
the practice of killing. and that when
you encourage Il child 10 kill II bird
he Is not likely to stop with the shoot
ing of sparrows.
But the little Boston paper does not
limit its argument to tn" moral or
sentimental sides of the defence. IL
says hluntly that the Department Of
Agriculture. which advocates the
slaughter of the sparrow. has much
10 learn. II quotes the biological Sur.
,cy rs authority for the statement
that II brood of young >parrows has
destroyed 1000 alfalfa weevil In a day,
and cites Professor DE L.oAtH of the
Georgia Agricultural Experiment Sta
ton In proof of the assault of n thou
sand sparrows on Il field Of millet in
Tested with army worm caterpillars.
''In approximately forty.eight hours
Of the worms" These bits Of evil
dence should interest our " DIR.
HoRSADAY. who wrote Of the spar.
row: after twenty years Of nc
quaintancr | am obliged tn say that !
never saw one catch n worm. Il cater.
pillar or an insect of any kind"
According to JAMES BroKIAND OF
London, who is quoted hy counsel for
the defence, the farmers of Hungary
succeeded in doing away with III,
sparrow, WhcreuIun 'within five
years ia" country was Ovcrrun viii
insects aud ,hes" same men were cry,
ing for the bird 10 he given back I,
them lest they should perish. Tho
sparrow was brought back and, driy
ing out the hordes OF Devastating in
ScctS, proved the salvation Of TN
country The Massachusetts STAT,
nrnith"l"gi>', EDWARD How F0E
rrsII. writes that the destruction q
IN" sparrow might result In the In
GREASE" uf insects, particularly tn
row WAS impaired /" destroy.
summing NJ, III" Sparr"W'S coinSo
makes III" broad assertion that hi
client u changing hi> habits nnh hf
coming more and more an inscctlyt
The sun., 1916-10-28
THE CAMPAIGNS COURSE.
what Constitutes the Purchase Of
Votes?

TO THE EDITOR OF THE SUN-Sir. For
several days the newspapers have been
stating that the result of the election
in Illinois depends on the women. / see
now that after ian inspiring talk with
the President Mr.. Ford has decided to
raise the wages of the women workers
in his factories to the same minimum
ms the men, and that in all probability
all women workers in Illinois and other
suffrage States would receive by mail
news of this new beneht conferred on
ome workers by the manufacturer and
the part President Wilson had In inspir-
ing IT,"
I am not clear as to what constitutes
buying votes and should be glad To be
enlightencd. A. T..
NEW YORK, October 20.