The state herald., 1916-10-13

of the sky, and the glittering gold nne
yellow of the Russian ORTHODOX
church edifices.
From Tashkent we started on de
tour Of Kokand, seeing en- route tn,
fertile cotton fields of the Ferghani
and Kokand districts, Of which thu
city of Skobelovo is the administra
tive center. This town also is new
md without interest. Some mile,
away is the old and ruined city which
1t has replaced, whose crumbling mue
walls and deserted streets bear wiz
ness to the power of the railroad (,
draw people to itself.
Dead Age Is RevitaIized.
From Andijan, near the border oI
Chinese Turkestan, the Transcaspiar
railroad stretches to the port of Kras
novodsk. on the shore of the Caspian
sea, distance of more than 1.1W
miles, but the portion between Kokand
and Andljan is without interest fol
the traveller except for occasionai
views Of snow-covered mountains on
the Chinese frontier. But on leaving
kokand for the trip to the Caspian
we leave the newer cities of the Rus
sian occupation and enter regions Of
old civilization and historic anc
archaeological interest. After n dusty
journey through unwatered plains we
reached the old and delightful city OF
Samnrkand, known TO all students a.
one Of the outlying seats Of Greek cuh
ture. The present town Of Samarkans
is the third city to be erected on prae
tically the same spot, although the old
est Greek settlement was laid out per
haps three miles from the present site
There Is little to be seen Of the place
now except bricks and outlines OF
buildings covered for the most parl
deeply In the sand which had driftet
and blown over them for so long.
Baxaars Are Interesting.
But 1t Is not alone for Its memories
Of the past that Samarkand is interest
Ing to the traveller. There is busy
but always sedate and grave bushes,
present In the city. and u stroll AROUND
the bazaars is full Of surprises. The
streets OF the native town are only
Just wide enough for one carriage ai
blocked II there were more than
very few horse-drawn vehicles In ths
city. As II is. nearly all freight anc
farm products are brought In on cam
els or on donkeys. The latter are thu
same sturdy, gray. and Intelligent lit
tie beasts seen throughout the Ens
and In Mexico and South America
They tnke their duties solemnly anc
refuse TO be distracted by noise anc
confusion. Whole professions Of the
little fellows pass through the narrow
ways or stop to be unloaded In from
Of the shops. which are nothing mor'
than platforms built nt the side of thu
street md surrounded with shelves'fol
merchandise. Some OF the streets II
the bazanr nre 40 narrow that thcl
are like corridors In a building ant
are covered from the houses ON eaci
side by archcd roofs. 80 that one cur
walk around and keep dry even In th
hardest rain.
On all sides there sit, gravely sip
ping their endless cups Of ten ans
eating sweetmcnts nnd dried fruits. IN
dark.fnced merchants, many Of then
with long boards dyed red and with
green turbans. showing that they hnv
made the long holy pilgrimage h
Mecca. The brillinnce md charm o
the scene are extraordinary. Men ans
women are clad In long. flowing gown
Of the brightest silks In startling bu
always harmonious combinntions-yeb
low. red. blue. and green.
Not infrequentiy the little street
are dwarfed by the appearance Of
long string OF caincls bringing hug
bnles Of cotton or the heavier kind
Of freight from the country dIstricu
These animals ARE picturesque. but n
stupid md vicious that they hive b
be tied In long line with one
the intelligent little donkeys In from
to show them where to 20.
The next city Of Importance on ID,
line Of the railway on the wny b
Krnsnovodsk is Bokhnrn. The old his
torIc town In some Ave miles from III,
rnilrond. with which II In conncctes
by branch line and by one Of IN
worst carriage ronds have ever beer
over.
New Bokhnrn or kngnn In the sea
Of n Russian political ngent. who T.
the representative Of the imperial gov
crnmcnt at the court Of the cmir
Bokhars, the most important nstw
sovereign Of this part Of the world.
In its way Bokharn In the most IN
terestIng Of nil the old cities Of Turke
stan. II was for centuries celebrated
ns n theological center of Mohan
mechanism.