The daily telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1901-1926, 1916-09-29
,z=~7> Shin$lAgr 0ri8nd are The New 1l0dSS'

When the fairies restored their pre-!
ents to the princess, afterwards fame
for her 100 years nap, they made he
good and lovely, rich and wise, but i
modern times Sleeping beauty woul
wish to have conferred upon her tn
gift of dress instinct" fer the Amcri
can women crave that as most preciou
boon. Nowadays we must credit hei
with possessing it, for the standard o,
good taste and the understanding Of
what to wear places the American
woman in class by herself. There is
nothing frivolous about studying the
clothes problem. Those who give II the
most thought and then apparently for
get 1T are the ones most practical and
best dressed.
Autumn is the season when the great
est fashion changes occur. The practical
sartorial ideas originated without the as
sistance OF foreign designers, has given
US worldwide fashion reputation.
Inspirations for fall garments have
been taken from many periods and coun-
tries. Russia, the ancient costumes of
Poland, the Moyen age, Louis Fifteenth
period, are among those that contribute
their quota.
Broadcl2ths, velour de laine, vetours,
duyctines, bardines, zibelines, Jersey
and pile fabrics are the materials gem
orally sought for. Features Of the suits
are the longer coats and skirts. It may
be safely affirmed that the skirt within
a few inches of the instep is no longer
rated dowdy as it was few weeks
previous.
The question raised as TO the width
of the skirts to be worn with the three
quarter length coat is answered by saying
that heavy materials do not exceed from
three to three and a half yards, the
wider skirts of lighter weight material,
know no limit to the yardage.
The waist line isSS lightly above the
normal in some of tie tailor suits and
separate coats. Collars are high and hug
the throat closely. The military collar,
high fur collar, or collar turned bacl;
with wide reYeres to show the vest, are
prominent.
Sleeves are snugly fitted at the top, sci
In at the regular or extreme shoulder
line, though certain types show unex.
pected fullness at the top.
Fur, braid and embroidery arc used
lavishly for trimming. All skirts have
some fullness at the top with a ten.
dcncy to push the fullness to the back
Modified circular, pleated effects ant
many gored models are used. Skirt
distcnded by stiffening at the top of thu
back or below hip and knee continue t
be worn.
There is apronounced vogue for til,
long ttlnic and various pannier ideas
One cannot refrain from mentioning
pockets of every description.
A two-piece suit of elephant gra,
broadcloth trimmed with smoked fur ha
three-quarter length jacket semi-fittet
back and front. Fur bands are run I'm
der short tabs of the cloth outlining eacl
side of the front The collar is of fur
Deep pockets on the coat are fn
trimmed. The long sleeves are set il
at the normal arm hole with tab trim
ming. The cloth belt is trimmed throug
the center with a fur band and cut i
one with the front. A belt made Of flu
is run through cloth slashes on the flu
skirt.
A blackberry colored broadclot
trimmed with seal is made in simple con
servative lines. The medium lengt
jacket is collared with fur. The JACKIE
has the back fitted and scanned. TIL
olQe pOTUUllS dlC SdlllClCu d. tllC IIC v
the waist and extend over the skirt o
the jacket The skirt has a plain fror
panel and gathered side. Below ban
fine shirring, there is a pocket at eac
side OF the front panel.
Separate coats are made in. bot
straight and fare effects. With the cx
ception OF sport coats and sport" thes
days is an elastic term, coats are As
4S inches long.
Belts are used on motor and sire,
coats. Collars of every variety from tn
high standing collar to the cape an
sailor collar are different-very differer
this fail both on the coats and suits.
Notifications of kimona styles and be
sleeves or those with a fullness caugt
at the cuffs, are seen on the utility coat
There Is a cali for coats Of mixture
tweeds, yelours, checks and plaids, woc
velour, broadcloth and pile fabrics. Fl
trimmings again have a liberal use.