The Washington herald., 1916-04-09
Inset PANELS in
SKIRTS POPULAR
New Designs Give a False
Appearance of P etticoat
Through Split Overdress.
SPLIT FRONT In BODICE
Combining Of Two Materials Affords
Opportunity for Testing Arts
Try Of Modiste.

Once in a while a checked suit of
marked distinction looms up on Fifth
avenues horizon and proclaims its
smartness as far as one can see IL, but
in between these exceptions flow streams
of checked suits at all prices from
S7.ss up, and each one proclaims its am
bition loudly instead Of sinking into the
background as does a dark blue suit of
little merit. Among the imported models
one finds very few checked suits or trot-
ting frocks. It Is to the domestic manu-
facturers that the flood OF them Is due
The combination Of two materials in
one model extends to street wear as
well as to dressier costumes and some
Of the smartest of the dark blue suits
and frocks are built up OF cloth and silk
in the same color, while occasionally
the silk used shows several colors,
though the cloth is m one tone. Skirts
OF silks almost hidden under folds Of
cloth and lower sections OF cloth join
ing hip yokes or upper sections Of silk
we have had for long time: but these
methods OF combining two materials are
still with US.
The overskirt Of cloth opening all the
way up the front to show a petticoat of
the silk figures in a number of the new
tailored models. Bernard and Geor-
getts both showing a liking for this type
OF skirt below a comparatively short
coat or coat bodice Bernard has also a
very wearable coat frock in navy blue
serge, whose serge overskirt opens from
waist to hem on each side to reveal a
very full underskirt Of dark blue foulard
dotted at rather wide intervals by coin
dots Of white.
Striped silk in dark tones is effective
" combined with cloth in one of the
tones by some of the designers, but the
idea needs to be exceedingly well han
died in order to be successful the COM
bining Of fancy and plain materials in a
tailored or semi-tailored model having
a lamentable suggestion of makeovers
about 1t unless the result Is good look
ing enough to defy criticism.
The petticoat front already mentioned
has appealed to many Of the French de-
signers and frequently is merely an in
set panel instead OF a bona fide under
skirt Lanvin, in particular, has ex-
plotted this idea and. with the imprac-
ticaity Of the artist who scorns to take
matters Of cleansing, etc. into considera-
ton, she has introduced these petticoat
panels in fine lingerie materials upon
dark hued street costumes. There Is a
dark brown and blue changeable taffeta
frock, for example. whose straps and
plaitings are piped narrowly in blue taf-
feta-
It has a little shoulder cape of the taf-
feta- with a dainty and unusual high.
rundown collar OF embroidered muslin,
and a narrow inlet panel Of the muslin
extends down the center front Of both
bodice and skirt widening slightly as II
descends. Narrow bands Of hand shir-
ring and cording run across this panel
for its entire length.
Another Lanvfn model, sent over for
private customer, Is on the same gem
eral order as this brown one, though In
details it differs. The material is dark
blue taffeta and the front panel Is of
mesh organdy' as is a big coHRr bodice
that falls low over the shoulders of a
loose little bolero.