The Kennewick courier-reporter. [volume] (Kennewick, Wash.) 1914-1938, 1916-03-09
THEHOME GARDEN
ROSE CULTURE

ROSE CULTURE
In taking up this special subject OF
rose culture, you will find the general
rules for preparing, planting and cul.
tivating the soil is similar to the treat
ment that almost all shrubbery should
receive. wv
The location, character Of soil,
drainage and climatic conditions de-
termine somewhat the manner Of pre-
pairing and after treatment of the soil.
Our soil here in the Kennewick Valley
has natural drainage, with but very
few exceptions, so it is not necessary
to make any particular provision for
that. Choose a nice sunny location
to plant your rose bush, as you will
get much better blossoms and have a
healthier and sturdier plant. --
In preparing the soil for either fall
or spring planting, stir the ground
thoroly at a depth of at least two feet
and at a distance of one foot on each
side of where the plant is to be set.
1t is much better if this preparation of
the ground is made some time in ad-
vance of planting. If thus prepared
a few months in advance, would ad-
wise working in some we'll rotted ma
nure with the soil, and wet thoroly,
but if it is not possible to do this, and
you prepare the ground for immediate
planting, do not use any manure what
ever, as it is unsafe. There is great
danger of the manure burning the lit
tie ROOTS, and possibly killing the
plant, or at least dwarfing its growth.
The manure can be worked into the
top soil after the rose bush has start
ed to grow. r.-
Planting .. .-s..
When you are ready to plant, dig a
hole little larger than necessary to
take in all the roots nicely, placing
the rose bush deep enough so that all
the roots are well covered, but never
so deep as to cover the first branches
where they start out of the main stalk
Mound up little loose dirt in the
center of the hole and place the plant
on it so as the roots will take nat.
ural position. Now fill in the hole
about two-thirds full with the top soil
tramping the dirt with your feet
good and firm. Pour the hole full of
water and let settle before filling in
the balance of the dirt which firm
lightly, leaving an inch or two Of loose
soil on top for a mulch.
Before planting, cut back all bruis-
ed roots to a nice clean cut with a
sharp pair of primers or knife, also
top prune heavy, thinning out all the
weak growths and dead branches,
shaping up the bush nicely. Never
leave over three or four main branches
and shorten in all laterals to three or
four buds.
In planting climbers, do not leave
over three main branches, and train
in fan shape. Tie firmly to the trel-
lis as the vine grows, so the wind will
not whip them to pieces.
Plant from 2k to 8 feet apart when
planting in a bed, depending upon the
varieties planted. If planting in the
spring be sure to get them in the
ground early, as the rose starts to
grow very early in the spring. Now is
a good time to plant.
Irrigation
There is one thing above all else
that you must do, if you wish to be
successful in growing first class roses
and that is "water systematically and
thoroly." One cannot expect to use
little nozzle sprinkler and supply
water to grow a good bush.
About all that a sprinkler does is to
bake the surface of the ground and
let the roots starve.
The best plan is to run small ditch
in and around the bush and turn q
light stream of water on, so as to
thoroly soak the ground down to the
roots, then as soon as the ground can
be worked, cultivate lightly with a
rake or hand cultivator, leaving a nice
mulch of loose soil around the plant.
Irrigate and cultivate frequently thru
out the entire season, giving special
eare the first season after planting.
Before the hot weather sets in,
mulch the ground around the plants
with strawy manure, which helps to
retain the moisture, keeps the ground
cool, preventing the burning Of the
bark where the soil comes in contact
with it, and also fertilizes the soil at
the same time. 1t is an excellent plan
to mulch all plants with leaves, litter