Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-09-24
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.


~ NE of the interesting phases of
III " American fashions is to stand
u W by the side of the race track
and watch few fashions in
the contest for the blue ribbon of popu-
larity.
This race usually occurs in September
and March. The observer considers it
as a species of sartorial sport but the
men behind these fashions regard 1t
with anxiety and deep concern.
They have brought these models from
Paris and they have probably risked a
great deal of their money on them. and
some force outside of themselves seems
to put certain gowns and hats on this
race track OF fashion and bring them
into a sharp contest.
Probably the manufacturer makes his
money. out of this race. II he does. he Is
quite content. for by the time December
comes re is ready to put another set Of
models on the track.
The high-priced dressmakers regard
this race in September and March as a
blessing not in disguise. Through it they
are enabled to make their discard of
certain gowns before the actual season
opens. Women of fashion rarely get
their autumn and winter clothes until
October. If they buy early models be-
fore then their wisdom and experience
teach them that these clothes are mere
ly stock-gaps which tide over the in
term between the faded summer f1nery
and the new winter equipment.
The woman who goes into the shops
the first of September and buys an au-
tumn gown should be well aware of the
condition that exists in the dressmak-
ing world. If she feels that she has
made her own choice for the next four
months she will awaken from her gay
dream in another two weeks probably,
when she will see the several winners
of the ribbons on the race track taken
up by the thousands and sold for SIS up
The women who go to their dress
makers late in October for fastidious
selection of clothes can easily put their
hands on this. that and the other model
which may be passed up without pro-
test even by the dressmaker. If, on the
other hand, a woman who has small OPP
portunity to learn the results of this race
in September. through living in a small
community or not being interested in
fashions themselves. but only in her in
dividual selection of frock. goes to the
takes what they offer her, she is very
apt TO be saddled with the blue-ribbon
fashion that she may regret after she
sees herself repeated as in mirror be-
fore the first frosts have turned the
leaves.
Even as short time as week ago
the Moyen-age gown that hung straight
from the shoulder and was girdled
about the hips with a separate sash
was offered as a first fashion, written
about. photographed and widely ac-
claimed as new model from Paris that
deserved attention
Well, 1t got It. The shops showed
these gowns to the enormous trade that
arrives In New York the last of August.
Not only did the women and men buy
this model in various forms for their.
firms which were dotted from coast to
coast, but the women instantly wore
the frock on the avenues and in the
restaurants. and they were followed by
the hundreds of others who always
come to New York in droves at that
time Of the year to see all that is new
and take away as much of it as their
purses will permit.
So 1t was that by the first week in
September one saw these Msyen-age
frocks In satin, gabardine and serge
and In combination of materials on fig
ures that were stout and slim, tall and
short They were on the stage in the
first of the seasons new plays, and
women went home to copy them with
the aid of a small dressmaker and q
few lengths Of material.
Thus the situation stands today. The
women who go in for clothes that are
not cut out by the package like dancing
dolls insist that nothing could make
them touch one of these Moyen-age
frocks. Women who were delighted
with their appearance the first Of Sep
TENDER, and who thought that the gown