davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

not as persistently. 1t is true. as the
cane-seat hats of last summer. me
easy way to get away from tins de1ect
Nv the way, the usage OF becoming
colors beneath the brim OF the nat IS
growing in fashion. 1t is not done
with the hats of open straw. put with
those of Opaque straw as we'll
II is easy to offset the effect OF hard
straw against the brow and the eyes.
and the woman who has perception
of ali the little tricks that enhance the
face should not fail to line the orlH,
Of her hat. ,;o,
In the fine. black straw hats, which
are excessively popular today. the mn.
liners are putting, even on the Wioest
brims, few inches Of corded SILK IN
a good color. The choice of the color
depends good deal upon the eyes. Tor
we know that the truest art Is TO en-
nance their coloring as much as pos
sible bv costumerE. ~
bingham is coming back into fashion;
Its more luxurious sister. checkea
linen, has been raised to the top notcn
of stvle, and the American makers OF
the commonplace Scotch fabric nave
Immediately put 1t out on the counters
The wide and the small checks FORM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

has the money to indulge in a perma
nent wave and the judgment and OPP
portunity to find the right person to
nut in this permanent wave for dozens
do il and few should be chosen.
The warnings against hats with par
rots have been sounded more than once
in the last month. and 1t is no longer
necessary among the fastidious women
of large cities. There are hundreds
of women who are constantly asking
If the hat with the parrot is a wise
purchase. The answer is in the mega
tive
That peculiar kind of Mexican grass
which is used for many hats is in
good taste. but it should not be worn
in the streets of a large city. The one
objection to it for the women who
sunburn or freckle easily is that II
allows the light to mark the face up
in most distressing manner. although
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

up his trousers it was raining in Lon
don, which was merely an admission
to mans slavishness to English fash
the fashions of icy St. Maritz on the
hottest days of an American August.
The American climate calls for cotton.
linen and Chinese silks when it is at
its worst. from the 18th of June to the
18th of September
Bingham is cheap and most admira-
BILE frocks of it can be made at home
and with its advent into fashion wom-
en- should make the best of it. The
blue -and-white checked linen is also
admirable. even if bit more eX-
pensive than bingham. and the dress
makers have already turned to it for
frocks for garden parties and even for
afternoon weddings in the open.
The emphasis that fashion allows us
to put upon belts and girdleS allows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

brimIess. and the French say that there
is no woman over sixteen years OLD
whose eyes can stand a brimless hat
The turbans of today are becoming
because they go out at the upper edge
and down and out at the lower edge
This gives them some of the rakish
appearance of the hats that were worn
bv men when Beau Brummel led Eng
land. and later. in $50. when at
tractive clothes for men gave their last
departing gasp.
On the large hats the tendency OF the
brim or din downward is severely held
in check On the small hats. the mil
liners allow it to almost obscure the
face, and women like this for several
reasons the chief of which is that 1t
allows them to hide their uncurled
summer locks.
Every woman knows that hair is
nuisance in hot weather. unless she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Dainty Summer Dresses.

ELOWERED cotton wolfe is one of the
prettiest summer fabrics. and there
are lovely colored organdies and deli
cately hued batistes. These are gem
erously trimmed with narrow quillings,
touches of hand embroideries and show
ers of ribbon bows The sleeves are
always wide. Some of these dresses
are worn over a princess slip of tat
feta or washable satin. which has a
crinoline or haircloth lining arranged
in the form of strips on the under
side. Other ideas simply employ a
cable cord inserted at intervals from
hem to hip.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

US to swing a gown into significance
through this means.
Marie Tempest was among the first
women to adopt the tight. pointed silk
bodice with the voluminous organdy
skirt. This fashion has gained fol-
lowers ever since she exploited it.
Women have found in the fashion
reversal from the commonplace that
pleases them.
Even if one has a large waist. this
tight bodice does not disclose it in an
unattractive manner. for the signifi-
cant artistic reason that il dips itself
into the outstanding drapery of the
skirt. 1t is slightly pointed in front.
and often at the back. or the entire
lower edge is cut into battlements-a
touch of the Elizabethan era that was
brought out with the Sir Walter
Raleigh ruff. the queens farthingale
and the Amy Robsart sleeve.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

of white may be made up in sections of
Ave f1ounces, each one deeper than the
other and hemstitched together with
yellow. This gives a flaring effect.
A flame-colored sleeveless nightgown
has a deep curve for the armhole, out
lined with fine val insertion and inset
at the lowest point with square
medallion of lace. Over the top of
the shoulder is a bow of satin ribbon
with several long loops and ends fall
Ing over the bare arm to give some
suggestion of covering.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

This basket or dish can be placed on a
mat of ferns. Green candlesticks can
be used with white candles and pale
green shades. or white shades with
decoration of smilax and ferns around
the edge Use plain white cards deco
rated with spray of lilies of the val
ley. and letter the names in silver.
Following are directions for con-
structing some of the dishes contained
In the menus:
The cream sauce for the potato GRO
quetS should be rich yellow cream.
which can be obtained by adding a lit
tie yellow vegetable coloring to the
cream sauce. The same sauce for egg
croquets should be colored pale green
with spinach juice. In making the egg
and olive sandwiches use only the yolks
of the hard boiled egg and mix with
the olives. chopped fine. and little
mayonnaise. The potato balls can be
scooped out with a vegetable cutter
made for that purpose. Boil the balls
in slightly salted water until tender.
but be careful that they do not lose
their shape. Add two tablespoonfuls of
chopped parsley to a pint of cream
sauce for the parsley sauce.
Cake confectionery is made by cut
ting angel food or sponge cake in fancy
shapes and dipping them into fondant.
Sponge cake dipped into yellow lemon
fondant, and angel food cake dipped
into pistachio fondant. are nice for the
yellow and green luncheon. Use crys-
Recipes are given for all the unusual
dishes or those not so well known.
Grapefruit Cup.
Grapefruit. white grapes. pineapple
juice. Cut nice large grapefruit in
halves crossways. Remove the seeds:
with a sharp knife separate the pulp
from the skin and remove carefully.
Separate the membrane from the pulp.
Take an equal quantity of white grapes
skin and remove seeds and add to the
grapefruit; then add pineapple juice,
using about six tablespoonful to six
grapefruit. Fill this grapefruit mixture
into the fruit cups and top with white
grapes. left whole. Orange juice may
be used instead Of pineapple juice if
preferred. and orange pulp instead of
grapes, but in any case top the cups
with grapes to give the right color or
effect.
Daisy Canapes.
Six eggs. one dozen sardines. bread. /,
one teaspoonful lemon Juice. salt and |
cayenne pepper. Cut thin slices of |
bread into daisy shape with a sharp !
cutter or knife. If knife Is used 1t is |
best to use a pasteboard pattern to go |
by. Fry a delicate brown on both sides in !
hot butter and serve on a medium sized |
platter.
Cut the hard boiled eggs into halves.
chop the whites very fine, and run the
yolks through a sieve. Remove the
bones and skin from the sardines and |
rub into a paste with little of the
oil. Season with lemon juice, salt and |
pepper; pinch of Cayenne will be l
enough. Spread the bread with this !
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
sp,ei,l Correspondence Of The Star.
NEW YORK MAY

NEW YORK, May %, 1916.
~ UIvEZ moi. jeune homme. is the
cry of the fashionable hat. A
NJ. young girl who is noted for her
~ good dressing appeared at
smart afternoon dance in remarka bly,
good costume of green and black.
lightened up by long spats of pale gray
!, suede: the gown was an indefinite
green and black silk. with it's hem ten
inches above the floor. and the loose
green velour tied loosely below the
waist line with knotted girdle of the
same fabric. the black hat had a down
ward slanting brim that shaded the
eyes and covered the ears. its only
trimming short band of green ribbon
: tied in bow at the base of the neck
with long streamers tina: blew out into
the air as she danced
Because she was an exceptionally
good dancer a young man came over
to her and told her that it was not
necessary for her to wear the follow
me. young man" streamers.
Back in the days of 1910 and since
these flying streamers at the back of
a hat were given their nickname by
the beaux of France. and it was so
especially like France that it should
see in these reckoning fingers of rib
bon the symbol of coquetry and the
desire for chase.
Such streamers need a special type
of face The demure woman with staid
ideas and no coauetry cannot carry off
the hat which is symbol of allure
And yet she has begun to wear these
streamers - the demure woman al
though they were not intended for her
by the milliners.
They are also worn by that now
rare type of woman who has what is
I, called the mid-Victorian face-a face
which is sweetly pretty. seemingly in
nocent. usually with lmpid eyes and
an unsophisticated mouth.
II man would ever take the jude-
quickly know the truth. a truth which
he has never guessed or has always
debated through the centuries-tbat
the woman with this type of face is
usually the biggest coquette of her
day: that she knows every one of the
man compelling tricks. as the north
west Indians put it,
This Is dropping into the psychology
of women, however, and not the fash
ions of spring: and vet the foundation
truth is that the two should never be
separated. When a woman knows her
type ana dresses accordingly to it she
is successfully turned out.
When a designer sells a patron a
gown that is fashionable and which
goes not bring out her personality she
second rate designer: and the
worldtis full of her kind not ONLY in
America. where few people make a
pretense of being designers but also
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

the leading design. The square Of
color may be bright or dark blue,
black apple green or golden brown.
and if you want to be in the forefront
of fashion remember to use the check
rather than the stripe.
The prophets say that the popu
larity of the latter is on the wane and
that polka dots and squares will grow
in power with the sun. The polka dot
is already dancing about the town.
One already has the chance to wonder.
with Peter Newell that il. when pass
ing a girl wearing a polka-dot frock.
one played a little tune, would the dots
come out to dance? The trouble is
that one does not Nhave a flute or
mouth organ in the pocket at the right
moment.
Well. the polka dots and the checks
will surely shelve the stripes. and
linen tussor and Bingham are the
fabrics that bear these designs once
again. as in the sane and wise days
when women dressed according to the
climate. For decades it has been an
American joke that If man turned
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

a n excellent way to clean straw
~ berries and destroy all germs is
- to place them in colander,
rinse in cold water. hull and pour over
boiling water. drain and follow i'm
mediately by cold water. When can
ming Strawberries, if you wish them
to keep their original red color. add
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar to each
quart of berries.
Canned Strawberries.
To can strawberries or raspberrieS
and retain thier natural color, flavor
and form. wash and pick over the ber-
ries carefully. putting them into the
cans AS you do SO, do not handle them
but once Fill the cans full. then shake
them gently and fill again. Put on
the rubbers. Make a strip of one
half pint of hot water and one cup
of sugar to each pint can of fruit.
Boil briskly five minutes. pour the hot
sirup over the berries and screw the
tops down about half way. Put the
cans into a dripping pan and pour
little hot water around them. Set into
a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Take
out and screw the tops down as tight
as possible, let stand about an hour.
then try the tops again and screw
them down more. If possible. The ber-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Straw and Leather Trimmings,

g TRAW braid is new trimming.
~ For instance. on long garment of
dark blue serge 1t is used in a wide,
latticed border. On a dress of change
able taffeta straw braid is combined
with bits of black vanished leather
Shining white leather is used to trim
long full garment. 1t faces the hem
and turns over half an inch on the
outside. and above this Is a narrow
line of the taffeta. The small collar,
straight coat sleeves and small, curved
hip pockets are all finished in the same
manner. On a short. fiaring coat a
wide half-belt made Of bright red
satin is narrowly striped with black
shining leather.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Dry.Cleaning Window Shades.

ITO dry-clean a shade. spread it full
length on the kitchen table or
floor and rub thoroughly with dry salt
and cornmeal. renewing the mixture as
it becomes soiled Then dust we'll with
soft duster. The shade need not be re-
moved from the roller. and. this method
does not pull it out Of shauo or cause it
IN crack.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
MADE WITH MINT.
Mint Jelly.

Mint Jelly.
ITO make mint jelly pour two cups
Of boiling water over bunch OF
freshly bruised mint leaves. then SIM
mer gently for ten or fifteen minutes.
Strain, then to a pint OF the liquid ado
one package of currant or lemon or any OF
the gelatins, or half package OF gelatin
that has been soaked in little cold water
reserved from the amount measured out.
Add sugar to sweten and lemon juice to
make as acid as desired. Stir until
dissolved and set away to cool. AS the
mixture begins to thicken stir in two
tablespoonfuls of capers, then pour it
into one large mold or into individual
molds and set away to harden.
This will also make a good mint
jelly: Add handful or 1resh m'ns
leaves. on the stalks. to eight cups OF
apple juice. add sugar and boil. When
done lift out the mint stalks.
Orange Mint Relish.
Take four large oranges, peel care
fully. slice and cut into cubes the size
of dice. Add an equal amount of pine
apple prepared as above. sprinkle
with four tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar. two tablespoonfuls of fine chop
ped mint. one tablespoonful of lemon
Juice and one tablespoonful of sherry
wine. If the pineapple is not fully
ripened. crush enough to add table
spoonful of juice Stir together light
ly, so as to prevent MASKING the fruit.
Serve cold in sherbet glasses and
garnish with candied cherries or fresh
berries
Mint sherbet.
Take six lemons. two oranges, two
cups Of sugar. two cups of water, one
large bunch of fresh mint. the white
of one egg and a piece of green mint
the size of a pea. Squeeze the juice
from the lemons and oranges. Pour
cold water over the Feelings and put
on the stove. allowing it to come to a
boil. then pour 1t over the sugar and
mint which has been cut up fine. Cover
and allow it to steep for an hour Then
strain over the juice of the lemons
and oranges Dissolve the green leaf in
a little of the mixture until it is clear
and then add to the juices Mix the
ingredients together. the white Of an
egg we'll beaten and put in the freezer.
Serve in sherbet glasses garnished with
tiny sprig of mint.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Mint Punch.

stalks of mint. Chop fine. put them In
a mortar with four or fve tablespoon
fuls of sugar and grind to a paste, or
rub them in a bowl with a spoon. Boil
together for Ave minutes a pound of
sugar and a quart of water. Add the
juice Of three lemons and the mint
When the mixture Is icy cold, freeze.
Serve in punch llasseA
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Orange Followers.

Rich pie pastry, candied orange peel
English walnuts. sugar, one teaspoon
full orange juice and one teaspoonful
of pineapple juice. To each half cup
full of the candied orange. peel add a
few chopped walnut meats. about a
fourth of cup. then add the fruit
juices and little powdered sugar.
Both the orange and nuts should he
chopped very fine. Roll out some rich
pie pastry and cut into squares. Spread
some of the orange and nut mixture
over each square. and roll up like a
jelly roll Bake in a moderate oven
until a delicate brown. Nice to serve
with a salad course.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

People who do not wish their jewelry
to go out of fashion should buy the
heavy decorative kind.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
ODDS AND ENDS OF SUMMER FASHIONS

s7f7HE peplum still bloue
a is
- outs
berthas give dainty
frocks o
whit
oftn
to
under
he new
for like
r
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Candied Orange or Lemon Straws.

Cut the yellow peel into narrow strips
Have ready a heavy strip. made of one
cup of graduated sugar and cup of
water. Put the rinds into the boiling
strip and cook until clear. Remove.
roll in coarse white sugar. lay or sheets
of brown paper and put in a cool. dry
place to become crisp. These make
pretty garnish for goose or game birds
of any sort.
EMMA PADDOCK TELroRD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
The Seasons SMALL Hats Are GROWING ike1


W. Downward Dip Bm Are the Rhe Tmbans of odaWamng
Against
No for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

| There are thousands of great dress
makers who make beautiful gowns
with novelty touches. but when they
are selling these gowns they care little
| whether the buyer is light-hearted
| coquette or serious-hearted SUI
/ fragist: whether the lines Of frivolity
are painted on the surface of the skin
| or whether the lines Of sorrow are
marked in by experience.
There are large hats and small hats
| today Take your choice. or. have a
| few of each if you do not object to
| spending money. If YOU are bit skill
| full with your hands it is not necessary
! to do the latter to have sufficient sup
ply of summer hats at a reasonably
small cost
| 1t is with millinery as it is with
gowns: the prices are high and low
and the styles are the same. The dill
| ference lies merely in the workman
ship and the quality of the materials
used To some people this matters i'm
mensely; to others not at all.
Even to that class of women who
| have always preferred the best OF
everything there comes a spirit of lrri-
| tation when she finds that every COS
tune she wears can be bought at one
| third the price somewhere else AND
| irritation has glided into emulation or
same houses and getting clothes at the
same prices.
| The most expensive dressmakers in
| town say that the greater part of
! their income is derived from the orders
of rich women who live outside of
New York. They want the hall mark
| of a great house labeled in their
| gowns, and the secure feeling that they
| are wearing a new fashion. which has
been decided for them by one in abso-
| lutte authority.
| In New York. as in a few other great
cities. the small priced garments
| Just as smart in their outline and
manipulation as the high priced ones.
| And the sad part of it is that none
of them last for long time. far
| as their fashion goes. Therefore, the
should spend an enormous outlay on
clothes. when she can cut this in third
and still be in style
| It is almost impossible to buy an
original gown in this country. and it
is only natural that rafting good
price should be asked for one when ii
| is satisfactory.
| Speaking. therefore, to the rich as
well as the poor. there is every reason
to believe that a small amount of
money will buy many hats and many
gowns this season, for the reason that
some of the best styles are already
priced low and that summer finery does
not demand the fine workmanship of
winter.
| Therefore, the fact that wide variety
| is permissible should be welcomed by
every woman. She wants small hats
for some days and large hats for
others. and. since almost every hat has
a brim. she will find them comforta BILE
in the sun or in the shade
| We have had turbans with us before,
! but in the main they were unbecom-
ing. The reason Is that they were
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

then put the whites of the eggs on the
petals and the yolks in the center and
you Will have daisy appetizer.
Lily Salad.
Hard boiled eggs, mayonnaise and let
tuce leaves. Take as many eggs as
there are guests TO be served and boil
hard Cut the white in petal strips
and run the yolks through a sieve
Spread some we'll crimped lettuce leaves
with the yellow mayonnaise dressing:
arrange the white petal strips on this
circle or to represent petals. and fill
the center with the yolks of the eggs
rubbed to a paste with some of the
Serve on individual plates
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

Nothing could make a prettier CEN
terpiece for a green -and-white lunch
con than a silvered basket or silver
dish hlled with lilies Of the valley.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Another Method.

Have the fruit fresh and in perfect
condition. and all utensils used must
be absolutely clean and the Jars or glasses
sterilized by scalding. Mash together
with silver fork equal quantities of
fruit and sugar and let it stand until the
sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Then put
into Jelly glasses or pint jars. filling them
to the brim, and leave uncovered and ex-
posed to the sun for two days. putting
them in cool, dry place over night Seal
and keep in cool. dark place. This re-
tains the flavor of the berries and the
jam is rich and delicious
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28


A
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
CANNING STRAWBERRIES

ries will keep indefinitely. and each
berry will be as shapely as when first
picked. and will retain its color and
flavor.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28

on the Place Vendome and the Rue
de la Paix.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-05-28
Sun-Cooked Strawberries.

Sun-Cooked Strawberries.
To preserve strawberries in The sun.
put equal parts of the berries and
sugar into a porcelain-lined kettle on
the stove and boil them for ten min
utes, then turn the mixture out on meat
platters and set in the sun. and leave
there for one day or even two. Cover
the platter with netting to keep flies
away. Sun-preserved strawberries are
considered better than those cooked in
any other way.