davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
Good Reason Why Season Will
Go Down Into History as
Age Of Gold.
EXPENSE GIVEN NO THOUGHT
Gowns Designed for American Women
Command Prices Which Few
Years Ago Would Have Been,
Considered Fabulous =
Brief Descriptions.

New York.-It is not an exaggera-
ton to say that clothes are made OF
bullion. That is why this season will
go down into dress history as the age
Of gold.
Possibly, when the de Medicis
reigned in, Italy, and when the most
gorgeous trousseau in the world was
prepared for the young Catherine,
Princess Of Florence, who was to mar
ry a French king, the son of Francois
Premier, there might have been such
gowns included as France offers Amer
lea today.
The only single item of expense that
the dreSsmakers forgot to place on the
gowns of today was precious jewels.
There is feeling on the part of many
women who pay for these new clothes,
that there must be q diamond hidden
somewhere in the folds.
Everything that could be devised to
create expense was thought of and
used. Every animal in the land gave
up its hide; every glittering stone that
could be produced from crystals, nat
ural and artificial, was gathered to-
gether and facetted by skilled work
men and raised 40 per cent of their
original price. All the bullion IN the
land that was not real gold was spun
into threads miles and miles long and
laid in great heaps at the sides of
needleworkers, who were paid their
own price for the workmanship that
has not been equaIed since the six
teenth century.
Stained glass windows, historic altar
clothes and jeweled robes placed about
the madonnas in gothic churches, gave
up their designs, in order that the
American woman's gown might be
more sumptuous in appearance.
Where ordinary furs could not be
used, expensive processes were invent
ed to shave these hairs into reSem-
blance of the peltry of precious ami
mails. and the cost was added to the,
gowns price.
sprinkIed With semi-Precious Gems.
The designers of clothes looked to
the jewelers. to help them get quanti-
ties of brilliant quartz, artifcially col
ored onyx and peculiarly cut bits of
glass that could be sprinkled over the
surface Of tulle, satin and net.
A fine, new thread of gold was spun
which would hold these semi-precious
gems in place. This was made of bull
lion threads in three colors-red, blue
and Roman gold-which were skillful-
ly wound together into tiny ropes that
would loop themselves into masses of
color on brilliant surface.
Peculiar crystals were found by the
men who know mineraiogy, that could
be cut to exactly resemble the great
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
CLOTHES NEVER MORE GORGEOUS

had crowded the Institutions Of Paris
were given work to DO Ia which they
were skilled and superior
Whole surfaces Of gowns were So
closely embroidered with bullion.
threads that they resembled q if.
teenth-century coat OF mail When
the French designers began to fash
ion all these magnificent materials
into gowns for American women, they
painted the lily and gilded refined
gold fn other words. they heaped
precious peltry on some precious
gems. held them together with bul-
lion, worked rare lace into the, spaces
and provided a foundation Of metal
tissue that was revived from the
twelfth century.
The High Price Of Dressing.
And now do you see why this Pc
riod will go down into history as the
Age of Gold? Everything win glitter
that women will wear. this winter, and
it will be gold, silver, steel, crystals
and gorgeous fabrics. It is not posi-
Bile, however, to buy such clothes at
the usual price. Paris did not intend
this to be done, and yet, to do her full
justice, she does not believe that out
of the glory of her clothes she will re-
ceive more profit, if as much. than she
has received in recent years.
Why2 Because all, work, fabrics
and dyeing have become expensive be
yond counting in Paris. The cost of
satin went up to $40 a yard. brocade
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
CHAPTER ].

The Street stretched away north
and south in two lines of ancient
houses that seemed to meet in the dis
lance. 1t had the well-worn look Of an
old coat, shabby but comfortable. It
was an impression of home, really,
that it gave. There was a house across
and little way down the Street, with
card in the window that said: Meals,
twenty-five cents" The Nottingham
curtains were pinned back, and just In
side the window throaty baritone was
singing:
Home is the hunter, home from the hill;
And the sailor. home from the sea.
For perhaps an hour Joe DrummOnd
had been wandering down the Street.
His slender shoulders, squared and
resolute at eight, by nine had taken on
a disconsOlate droop. Prayer meet
ing at the corner church was over the
Street emptied. The boy wiped the
warm band of his hat and slapped it
on his head again. All!
Across the Street, under an old allan
thus tree, was the house he watched, a
small brick, with shallow wooden steps
and-curious architecture of the Mid
die West sixties-a wooden cellar door
beside the steps. In some curious way
It preserved an diT Of distinction aH6Hs
It's newer and more pretentiOus neigh
bOrs. The taller houses had an appear
apoa Of Y1rofootion rothor than of no "a
rOnage. 1t was matter of self-reSpect,
perhaps. No windows on the Street
were so spotlessly curtained, no door
mat so accurately placed, no yard" in
the rear so tidy with morning glory
vines over the whitewashed fence.
The June moon had risen. When the
girl came out at last, she stepped out
into a world Of soft lights and waver-
ing shadows, fragrant with tree bios
SONS hushed of its daylight sounds.
The house had been warm. Her brown
hair lay moist on her forehead, her thin
white dress was turned in at the
throat. She stood on the steps and
threw out her arms in a swift gesture
to the cool air. From across the Street
the boy watched her with adoring,
humble eyes. All his courage was for
those hours when he was not with her.
Hello, joe"
"Hello, Sidney"
He crossed over, emerging out of the
shadows into her envelOping radiance.
His ardent young eyes worshiped her
as he stood on the pavement.
"Pm late. I was taking out hastings
fOr. mother =
Dh, that's all right"
dney sat down on the doorstep, and
tn boy dropped at her feet. She set
It'd herself more comfortably and
DIR wv a long breath.
How tired 1 am OIL haven't told
yd l. We've taken a roomer" She
W S half apolOgetic. The Street did
h approve of roomers. 'It will help
W Ith the rent. It's my doing, really.
Mother is scanda1fzed."
Joe was sitting bolt upright now, a
little white.
'Is he yOung?"
Hes a good bit older than you, but
that's not saying he's DID,"
Joe was twenty-one, and sensitive of
his youth.
He'll be crazy about you in two
days."
She broke into delightful laughter.
'Ill not fall in love with him-you
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
Unusual Effect.

A tip from the dressmaker at home
is to line the pointed overskirts and the
shorter tunic skirts, and even the skirts
themselves, with a bright contrasting
color Of satin. Revers are also lined,
fiaring cuffs likewise. The effect of a
dark blue or black satin dress, lined
with crimson, bright blue, pearl gray OF
white, is so attractive that one stops
to admire the ensemble.
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
Ribbon Hats and Muffs.

For betWeen-season wear the milli-
ners have cleyerly evolved some
charming sets, either in ribbon or vel
vet.
For instance, one milliner is showing
a little hat in plated rosewood cOlored
ribbon, the crown encircled with velyet
to match. And to accompany it there
is a large muff of the velvet and rib
bon.
Another toQue was Of shot taffeta
ribbon, the muff accompanying it fin
ished with a fringed aounce.
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
Vacation Reflection.

] have had some treats in my little
excursion, not the least of which was
the gazing en- some-albeit the small
est-of the everlasting hills" and on
those noblest children of the earth,
fine healthy trees, as independent in
their beauty as virtue; set them where
you will, they adorn and need not
adornment.-Ge George Eliot.
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18

virtue of friIls Of tuHe and is not wide
ly distended, though very full, has an
overskirt of apricot taffeta striped
widely in velvet the same shade and
draped little at the sides over a.
full underskirt of apricot tulle. The
bodice is of tulle and lace, and
narrow band Of mole fur bordering
the skirt front and sides is continued
to form gfrdle across the back.
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
For Hlappiness

If thou wouldst find much favor an0
peace with God and man. be very low
IN thine own eyes; forgive thyself
little, and others much.-ArchbishoE
leighton.
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18

bodice of jewels.
jewels Of the fifteenth century, the
Sapphires and emeralds that hung over
clOth-of-gold gowns and were imbed-
ded in the stomachers of Elizabeth,
Catherine de Medici and Mary, Queen
of Scots.
The old method of using fiat gold
threads was brought back into the pro-
cess Of gown-building. Its old name
Lame was kept. The name was taken
from the method by which this gold
thread was pounded and beaten until
it became a supple blade of grass and
could be run in and out of the net in
any design attempted.
Marvellous NeedIework.
Needleworkers were called up from
the furthermost recesses of French
art work, and Belgian refugees who
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18
Broad Bands Of Fur.

The use Of fur is Indicated on all
sides. Broader bands than heretofore
will appear on dresses.
Middletown transcript., 1916-11-18

E.lSS0Y

fBy 2. 3. sELIsERs. Acting Direelof
s'.fday Seeprl Course. Moody Bible
stitute. chicnsQ
The sun., 1916-10-22
Priceless Document at Fairfax Court House Was Falling to Pieces From
Rude Handling. but Has Been Made Perfect Again by Marvellous
Achievement Of an Expert Restorer Of Manuscripts

pl!shcd nearly the impossible and
worked almost a miracle In the COM
plete restoration he has effected. The
authorities OF Fairfax county, as evil
dencc of appreciation of his work. have
had embossed in gold letters on the
black morocco cover which now en-
cases the will, Restored in 1910. Tn
der Authority Of This Court. by Will
lam Berwick. Restorer OF Manuscripts.
Library OF Congress- There ie no
other inscription on this cover except
THE Last VIII and Testament of Gen'l
George Washington
Although the work was begun by
Mr.. Berwick In 1910 II was but recently
completed. The r%estorcr. working odd
days and intervals sometimes widely
apart, needed much time TO bring the
manuscript to It's present form.
As soon as he finished with the Will
of Gen. Washington he began the res
toration OF the Will Of Martha Wash
ington. returned by Mr.. Morgan to
Fairfax county. The elder Mr.. Nor
gan having had the Martha Washing
ton will In his possession. and having
bound and preserved 1t carefully, IL
was in much better condition than that
of the first President and gave Mr..
The sun., 1916-10-22
THIRD PAGE AFTER BEING RESTORED y WILLIAM eeRWcK.

Thanks to the foresight Of the ON
Gals Of the library of Congress and the
intricate and expert work of Mr.. Ber-
wick the documents as they were
written are accessible to every one
There Is no charge or fec to view them.
The court house In which they are
kept was built In the same year that
Gen. Washingtun's will was probated
and filed. 1900. The building and the
most precious OF it's contents are of
the same age. ZIG years.
Gen. washington's will as restored
Is perfect as It came from his hand
and has the few impcrfcctions he left
In II. including some occasional lapses
In photography AMI the omission OF
his anne ut the bottom nf page %. not
withstanding the fact tnat he began:
I'm the name Of God. Amen. l.,
George Washington Of Mount Vernon.
IA citizen of the United States and
lately president of the same do make
ordain n declare this Instrument
which is written with my own hand
and every page thereof subscribed
with my name to ho my last VIII &
Testament. rcvoking all others
This omission may have been due
to the fact that the .ast three words on
that particular pag" are city OF
Washington" II is easy to surmise
that having just written Washing
ton" and ~engrosscd in thought. tho
Father of his Country naturally mis-
took the name of the city for his own
and thought hat he had signed as in
the preamble he undertook To- do.
The sun., 1916-10-22

nectlons OF the first Presidents familr',
~concurred In the suggestion that the
will should be restored at the court
house. Forthwith the repair work was
begun. Although Mr.. Berwick has
handled some OF the rarest and most
valuable manuscripts aud documents
in this country and Europe. he de-
clares that he never approached any
with the W that anne upon him as
he assumed the task of restoring
W~ashinSton's will. This feeling was
increased by the deplorable condition
OF the paper committed to his charge.
He faced IL with q sinking heart ana
had serious doubts whetl er he ever
could restore what his associates
called his patient"
With infinite patience. with expert
knowledge and profound sense OF the
importance of the patriotic undertake
ing. DR." Berwick began his surgery.
one by n the twenty-five sheets,
about the size OF foolscap. with writ!n-
on both sides. were separated and
treated. The instruments employed
were very thin, very keen knives
| camel's hair brushes. the inevitable
paste pot. a metal tank for soaking the
pages. a press. and last and most i'm
portant Of all. the gauze or crepelin,
with which the mending is mace Sc
cure and n new or tougher surface
age obtained.
This gauz". an eXquisltely tnr tex
ture OF silk and linen. H. extrcm"l,
f'imsy TO look N and demands tn. moo.
delicate handling. but once apple,
The sun., 1916-10-22

unso ana dirpi,, nLos dic,,sod do,
pussi,u v~olfb,u,d ~ nno ,nun,I,.
r,n,,ot,l N,u rl, e., orrtor. d.
foics ar ,,i.h ,,rri,,s - S,o,,jo, Tho,,
soon, r,,r, .uh.,,,,i,,
"Tbn c,fr,,,n ..,,r n.u, ,,,oo,a
,b, crir,o ., -, d,, IT. ,au,,or hos
"a f.vnirr ,b,o I,.pi,o d,, 10 m,r
,,,Ls you .,r,ior, ia ,ho oya ,,,hon,
r,,rt,vcro.s ~ ,,,r ,.o,, ma, n. 500.
his dor vjl Il, Two same"
While ,bo L,.r,r or ba,,,rd mas In
d,Xiur dop ,harac,cr sbc toyed win
tho I.,,,rs an h,,. a.,k Sho nick,d an,
nm. FROM tho lnt drew tho ,ct,er IRON
tho ,uv,,nnc and smiled she onrr,I
,hn nancr Incl, NJ boir ~ n urh,
fan color ,f,d win a hin, rihbor Lnu,
was disclosed
This cnmc Yesterday. II ia from n
former customer" she EXPLAINED, "Thc
woman bouph, , Cog from me some
The sun., 1916-10-22
THIRD PAGE OF GEORGE W~AsHlNoTONS Will

the journey to and from Richmond. the
careless IL afrectionate handling to
which the precious manuscript was
subjected did not tend to its preserva-
ton. Finally 1t became a thing OF rags
and tatters. Its ~custodians. with the
best intentions. added to its peril OF
early and complete obliteration by per-
sistently folding II lengthwise, follow
ing the original fold OF the clerk OF
1900.
IN time. after much opening and
fclG.ng. the pages cracked and divided
along the lines Of the creasing. Then
some past and zone Official. with the
tenderest of purposes and most awk-
ward OF methods. undertook to repair
the damage and prevent extension OF
1t. Bits of glued paper and court plas-
ter were put across the torn creases.
AS the months and years went by
these patches themselves split. leav-
ing the pages again to fall apart
through the centre.
Court authorities after anxious con-
situations decided that the broken
parts should be sewn together and 80
fastened securely as possible. This
rough and ready z was applied
and through immortal words. written
by immortal hand. went impertinent.
inquisitive needles. carrying coarse and
obvious strands of thread. directed not
| the skilful and n!mblc fingers OF
a woman. but by the heroic notions
of sewing and repairing belonging ~
the average man.
There was no dainty and careful
stitching. The Job seems to have been
done in n hurry. probably with hastily
borrowed needle and thread. OF
course the cure was worse than the
disease. Zach needle thrust but fur
Their wounded and punctured what had
once been clear and beautiful manu-
script and left the faces of the pages
d%isfigured by s%prawling. irregular and
obviously masculine emergency stitch
ing.
Gradually the manuscript went from
bad Ia worse unt.l each time worr
page resembled the tattered wings OF
a butterfly that had played hide and
: seek with the propeller OF an aero
The sun., 1916-10-22
DOGS VICTIMS OF BIG LUXUR

Chihuahuas. They are queer Little
codGers, these MeNicans. ao'-.t as blk
as a bugs ear-thrcc pounds = con-
sidcrcd the correct weight, ! believe
either completely void If hair or hay
ing u coat go short and slick IL has to
be viewed by the aid Of a macnifyiuc
glass. They are extremely FRAN and
have a habit az shivcring continually,
no matter what the temperature.
There l. no question but the woman
possessed some Of the finest ~ the
breed IN this country. She WIS inor-
dina;e.y proud of her success with
them. To go the dog valet idea one
better she made a special trip tn Mexico
and brought back with her an attraC-
tive Mexican girl to act as maid 10 the
C%hihuahuas. On formal occasions tho
maid appeared in native dress, thus
adding local color.
There Just isn't any limit.
In West Thirty-seventh street. II YOU
are passing that way. you Will come
The sun., 1916-10-22

and the rest of the winners, she likes
the thrill Of victory and considers that
one way to get it," | suggested.
There are an awful lot Of Caesars
and Napoleons going TO waste. then"
was the answer. Why. the pride Of
a mother exhibiting baby's first tooth
IL pale in comparison with the pride
of this exhibitor iiuttering a few fool
ish ribbons"
TIE man was warming up to his sub
ject.
why, look here he said. dragging
deep on a cigarette and almost blowing
the smoke through his ears in his en-
element. II know "A dog oma who
brushes the teeth of all her dogs every
morning. Yes, she does. Can you
imagine II?
Il went down there one morning n
she was out in a special room she keeps
for her dogs. One of them, a Yorkshire
terrier. was standing on n table. As
sure as I am telling YOU that pup had
his lips drawn back from his teeth. bar
ing them. and his mistress was scrub
bling them with tooth paste.
"She brushes them hat way right
along, has special brushes made for
the purpose. Each dog has his W
brush. At first they didn't like the
idea a hit, but now they tiguratlNcly
C"y for it. They will not eat their
reakfast in the morning until they
have their teeth brushed and their
hangs caught back with ribbon bows
Can you beat it,
No. / assured him. II can't even
tic it,
And | know another oma with n
couple OF million dollars worth OF time
and money and nothing to do wit II, 40
She breeds P~ekingese. Has a big coun-
try. estate down on Long Island where
the dogs can got plenty Of exercise and
fresh air.
This woman employs n japanese
valet for her dogs. All this Jap has To
do is to pay attention to the pups. lie
has to see to it that they get their
baths at just the right temperature,
that borac!c acid Is dropped In their
eyes every morning, h "A they have
their medicine IL they need II. that they
dine wisely and not too well. that they
are brushed and combed and pcrfumed
right up to the minute.
Then of course he has charge OF
their clothes too. In summer this task
is quite light. the wardrobe consisting
mostly OF collars and lcashes. But In
winter when there are fur coats to he
kept in order and sweaters to clean and
blankets to press 1t keeps the dog
valet on the hum.
"A large wardrobe trunk accom-
panies the Pekcs To The shows where
they are to grace the ring, This is in
charge Of their valet, who has II
crammed to the lid with canine toilet
articles. clothes, special foods and nc
cessorics. He dolls them up like a lot
OF d~cbutantes their first season out"
Pretty soft for the Pekes!
Which reminds me hat last winter
at one OF the fo~rtnlghtly shows in the
Japanese room at B~ustanoby's res
taurant there occurred n striking ex-
ample OF the lengths to which women
viii go In the dog game.
A certain woman OF wealth con-
ceivcd . violent fancy for Mexican
The sun., 1916-10-22

One of the first difficulties with
which Mr.. Berwick had TO contend
was the stitching lone by those who
tried To preserve the Will with thread.
Whore the stitches had not broken
away Mr.. Berwick clipped them apart
carefully and withdrew them with
,weczrrs. The apertures left by the
withdrawn threads made the toughest
problem tho expert had to overcome
and many times he was almost ready
10 cons.gn the hands tina did h work
To the eternal flames.
After the countless holes and tears
had been flied the pages were soaked
and pressed into pcrfcct smoo,hness.
de icate knives were employed TO
scrapc away stains and foreign parti-
The sun., 1916-10-22

plane. Early in 1910 Herbert Putnam,
Librarian Of Congress, asked the Fair
fax county authorities for permission
to make photographs Of the will. They
replied that the will was in such for
lorn condition that a satisfactory series
Of photographs OF its forty-two pages
was impossible. Mr.. Putnam's per-
sonal inspection confirmed this dismal
report.
Then came a long and somewhat
trying series Of negotiations. The De-
partment OF State. appealed to. offered
to restore the Washington will as II
had restored the Declaration OF lnde-
pendence II the document were
brought from the court house 10 the
District Of Columbia. The Fairfax OFF,
cials. backed by the counts. decided
that this was impossible; that an act
OF the Virginia General Assembly
would be necessary to enable them 10
consent to yet a temporary removal.
In the meantime the will, now toe
fragile and badly torn for further ham
ding. was kept in a non-tireprooi
wooden box in the office of the Fairfax
county clerk Of cour..
Finally Librarian Putnam and Gail
lard Hunt. chief OF the division OF
manuscripts. hit upon a definite solu.
ton OF the difficulty. In charge of the
repair section of the manuscript d!r!-
sion is William Berwick. said 10 be the
greatest living expert in the restora-
ton Of old manuscripts. Impressed
with the task before him and file,
with &, desire to prpsprNp the trpimpn.
dously important and interesting relic
Mr.. Berwick eagerly met the view D
Mr.. Putnam and Mr.. Hunt that If tn,
mountain could not come To- Mahom''
then Mahoinet, in the person ~ NJ
Berwick. would 60 10 the mountain. ol
10 the will at Fairfax Court House.
The Fairfax people. supported h,
Lawrence Washington and other con
The sun., 1916-10-22

"ls that 50? I'm sorry. | really
could not tell without seeing him.
Positively refuses To eat his biscuit,
Have you tried castor oil? Give him a
good dose of oil right away. lie Will
take It? Make him take It. You
are stronger than he is, aren't you?
DO that, and II he is not better to-mnr-
row bring him over 10 town. Yes, that
vii! be plenty Of time 20 have a doctor
Up goes the receiver with a sigh.
II sold that woman "A Pomeranian
tive years ~ and she has been camp
ing on the wire ever since. II her dogs
nose feels n bit warm, II he snce2es or
harks out of key or shores in his sleep
she calls me up in a panic.
she seems to think | ought to know
exactly what ails him. II is like asking
"A doctor to d%iaGnos" a case withou,
ever seeing the patient. ,They tele-
phone me at all hours Of the day and
night to tell me Fin yawncd twice in
succession or Edo failed to relish his
breakfast food.
Dog people are n strange crew.
They eat. sleep, talk, think. live dog
No other subject interests them, !
have had Ia establish "A rule: while al
table no mention OF dogs or | leave.
often | dine with a friend who !,
an enthusiast, She understands my
dinner rule ana suffers torturcs uhsorv-
Ing II. All the time we are dining SHE
wears a firaway, distract look. II
the service Is slow she loses all patienr,
and complains loudly. You shout,
hear the sigh of relief with which sh,
pushes back her chair and says;
"'Come on. now; let's sit down an'
have "A really good time
"A really good time TO her means
buZ2ing about dogs"
Mrs, Hall believes dogs are an indie,
OF character.
"a fussy. nervous woman viii In
variably have a fussy, dog. on,
that runs around. jumps up and dowI
and yaps." she says. "A oma of 70