The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-03-19
D. ELEANOR HoYT A RID.

w" s 5;:, : :;;s :: s;,s; ] FER :
large collection Of i'm
ported model dresses. they are a
good deal the same-only more so"
That sums up the situation neatly
enough. only not all of the new models
Are more So A certain percentage
r %perceptibly longer of skirt and not
all are wide of hip and hooped Of skirt.
Still. the general impression left by
q survey Of the fashion field Is n of
distended skirts and bunchy outlines.
Extremes strike the vision more forci-
bly, than things conservative and linger
more definitely in the memory. One
remembers the premet models more
clearly than the Dreoolls.
They are uncompromisirg. those
Premet models. Many OF them are
cleverly designed. tremendously inter-
esting in detail. but royalty regardless
OF the ordinary woman's limitations.
IL you can't wear Premet models sue
cessfully. then wear something else"
Is the challenge flung out by the house,
and in spite Of the aggressive hip
width. the bouffant skirt draping. the
big sleeves. the amazing collars. those
models are finding ready sale. Prob
ably copies Of them will be toned down
. bit to meet individual needs. but
there IL always "a crowd that adores
extremes and will have them whether
they are becoming OF not.
ITS this way" said a Western
woman who makes clothes for the
moneyed contingent in "a large town.
i've never done a bigger business
than ! have this year. and I've never
had a harder tim In satisfying my
customers. The girls are all right,
They come in and pick up the fullest
and bunchiest and shortest model in
the shop and say. Isn't this too dar-
ling. ! must have one like this. only
a little fuller and a little shorter
But most women don't like the
clothes and don't like themselves in
them after they get them. They know
they don't look well in this year,
dresses. but they don't struggle much
It's the husbands that make troull,
for me. They don't like the styles
now. ard YOU can say what you pleas,
a out suffrage and parasites. but il
does upset almost any woman IL hav,
h"r husband tell her she looks like ;
Il light in a brand new. expensive dress.
Perhaps organized effort. concerto,
a slon on the part OF husbands. woul,
a cOmplish a fashion revolution. hui
in lividual criticism doesn't seem t,
have stemmed the flood. and the meI
may get used to hoops and hip drap'
CT 'es. Presumably there were womcl
OF all shapes and kinds in the days %
Louis Seize and Of Victoria and al
wore the frocks of those periods: and
II tradition be true. men We're ever
n. ,re gallant then than now. Thos,
y. re the good old days when. accord
in- to a~nti-suffrage report. men re,
garded women as queens II kncl
before their thrones.
Cheer up. Mesdames. Husband
my be become reconciled to l9l,
n odes. nay even work up enthusiasm
f.. them.
Evening dresses show Louis Seiz,
~ 1uences rather more plainly tina.
the models for daytime wear. The!
II nd themselves more readily to Wat
tcau and Boucher and F~ragonard an,
Natter effects. while the stree
dresses and afternoon dresses take OF
more of the 1880 characteristics
though only IN a very general wa.
have the designers chung to pcrio,
ideas at all. There Is a certain Yer.
castle agreement as To- the iniiIeu -
that are to prevail in the season. Tina
IN all. Each designer makes what h
Vl OF the theme.
The predominancc Of black an