davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Seward gateway., 1916-04-25

 furnishing and delivering standard railroad cross ties and piling to the Alaskan Engineering Commission for use in the construction of the Alaska Railroad, as hereinafter described.
 Class I.
 100000 Sander Eallroad Cross Ties tc be used in the construction of section of line along north shore of Turnagain Arm between Kern Creek and Ship Creek Junction.
 Class 2.
 15O,OOO Standard Railroad Cross Ties to be used in the construction of Matanuska Branch Line and Main Line from Matanuska Junction north ward to Willow Creek.
 Class 3.
 2,OOO Standard Filing in lengths 20 to 40 feet to be used in same territory as material called for under Class 2.
 Native spruce and hemlOck timber for making cross ties and piling can be secured from certain designated sections of the Chugach National Forest Reserve and from other public lands lying without the Forest Re serve as described in the General Conditions and Requirements.
 One-haB of one per cent of the tot al amount involved in the bid must be deposited with each proposal as a guarantee that the successful bidder will execute formal contract with bond, if required, within fifteen days after receipt of notice of award
 No bid will be considered for less than 5O,OOO ties or 500 piling.
 On or about the 18th of each month, payment will be made for all ties and piling accepted during preceding month, less 15 per cent, which will be retained until completion of entire order.
 Specifications, Form of Proposal, General Conditions and Requirements, Form of Contract and further in- formation may be had at the Offices of the Alaskan Engineering Commits sion, Anchorage and Seward, and at the offices of the Alaska Road Com mission in Valdez and Juneau.
 Bids will be opened at the Office of the Alaskan Engineering Commission, Anchorage, Alaska, at 200 o'clock P. M., June 10th, 1916.
 The right is reserved to reject any or all bids. No bids will be consider ed from employees of the Alaskan Engineering Commission.
 Alaskan Engineering Commission.
The Seward gateway., 1916-04-25

SPECIAL Mems wOrsted derby ribbed union suits, $2.OO. Brown 6 Hawkins, Quality First"
The Seward gateway., 1916-04-25
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
 Alaskan Engineering Commission
ADVERTISEMENT

Sealed proposals are invited for furnishing and delivering standard railroad cross ties and piing to the Alaskan Engineering Commission for use in the construction of the Alaska Railroad, as hereinafter described.
The Seward gateway., 1916-04-25
Ee322EYa aRL9N0

LLieutenant General Count Cadorna. the Italian commander in chief, Grown Prince Alexander of Serbia, Premier Pachitch of the same country, Premier Asqulth of Great Britain, several other members of the cabinet and General SIT Douglas Haig, commander in chief or the British forces on the continent. Pro mier dc Broquevllle of Belgium. General Gnlnsky, aid-de-camp Co Emperor Nich- olas. and the Russian ambassador Go France. A. P. 1swolsky. will take part fin a war conference in Paris. Premier Brland of France will preside. The con ference ls looked upon in Paris as Of the greatest importance. as it will decide the Joint policies to be pursued during Che next period of the war.l
Evening star., 1916-06-25
New Beach Hats.

G ELECT some bleached corn husks
- and dry them. Strip them intogeg-
ular widths and braid them neatly and
evenly. overlapping the ends carefully.
Sew the braiding around and around in
the shape of a crown, and sew securely
with white linen thread. Widen the
rows of husk into a brim. Trim with q
twist of ribbon with or without a bow
at the side.
With practice and little ingenuity -you
can form the hats into any shape you
wish and invent all manner OF novel
styles in plating. The husks may also
be used as a trimming. forming them
into roses and leaves, and making
wreaths of them to surround the crowns.
These hats may also be trimmed with
natural dried wheat ears. and with beau
tiful dried grasses Dried husks mingled
with ratfia in different colors will work
up into artistic effects too numerous to
Evening star., 1916-06-25

for alteration; they have the same
kind of ambition that civil engineers
have for overcoming obstacles. and to
these women it is no use giving ad-
vice. To ask them to discard a gown
because it is out Of fashion would be
to run against their most cherished
desire. which is to build upon old
foundations.
1t is a bit more difficult to advise
about coats than about skirts and
frocks. The short ones are at the
highest apex of style now. but this
fashion is to be expected in hot
weather. What will come with the
autumn no one knows except that
there is a whispered rumor in the air
that the modified directorie coat may
come in.
Each succeeding wave of fashion has
dressed the upper part Of the figure
above the waist with more slimnesS.
and today the newest top coat from
Paris is fitted to the figure above the
Evening star., 1916-06-25

IN gathering roses for sweetmeats or
Ill the potpourri jar il Is well to proht
q hy the methods OF the Bulgarians.
who are the makers of the finest grade
Of altar Of roses in the world, and the
Arrenians. who make the most deli
cate of rose conserves and preserves
During the Bulgarian rose harvest
the Young men and maidens rise before
the sun does, then tramp away to the
great rose fields to gather the blossoms
while the dew is still on their petals.
After the sun has dried them their rich
est fragrance has vanished. on this
account the picking is all done in the
early morning. Their roses are OF but
two varieties-the damask and musk.
both of which contain the largest per
centage of oleoptene. which is the
LIQUID and odoriferous part of the
altar.
AS these roses do not grow in their
full perfection anywhere else, we must
content ourselves with any fragrant
roses that can be obtained in their
freshness.
A unique and greatly appreciated
present to a bride IA few years ago was
a beautiful potpourri jar that was
afterward filled with the roses and
other flowers preserved from the we'd
ding. AS a jar of this kind VIII hold
it's fragrance for years. the sentiment
attached to preserving the wedding
blossoms is at once apparent. When
roses are gathered little by little until
the desired number is obtained. gather
early in the morning. Strip of the
leaves and dry on papers spread on the
! floor in an unused room. When you
have half peck of fine. dry leaves
take a large china or glass bowl, strew
a handful of table salt on the bottom.
then three or four handfuls of the
| leaves. Follow with more salt and
more leaves. and so on until all the
| leaves are used, covering the top with
salt Let this remain Ave days. stir
ring and turning twice day When
they seem moist add three ounces of
bruised allspice and two ounces of
bruised stick cinnamon Let this re-
main week or so, turning daily. Now
| ii is ready for the permanent jar.
! Mix together one ounce OF bruised
! cloves and cinnamon. two nutme gs
! coarsely powdered. two ounces of gin
| ger root sliced Thin. ore-tale ounc@
/ bruised 2a..ce :. our-hi..f Joi.tu ~ drtet.
| iayeRd$ uoW ers, Two ounces of sliced
Evening star., 1916-06-25

causes them to be forever at the busi-
ness
1t is the difference between the
trained and the unframed mind-the
expert and the amateur. The French
woman buys few clothes, but she buys
them exceedingly well. She knows
how to concentrate on hat and coat
and gown for three weeks out of the
season. She rarely buys more than
one entire costume at time, and then
she dismisses the subject until she is
in need of more clothes.
This method should appeal to the
business efficiency of every one, and
vet there are hundreds of women who
show contempt of it and go through
life wasting and mismanaging their
clothes incomes in a shocking way
They take a vrtuous credit to them
selves for not spending much time on
the selection of clothes. and then buy
in hurried manner something that
they are persuaded into. which neither
fits them nor is becoming and which
they finally discard or wear to their
own discredit until the season is over.
Is this good management? Is this
careless attitude toward spending
money a virtue that one is to be con-
graduated upon possessing?
And yet in this manner of buying
clothes women will be contemptuous
Evening star., 1916-06-25

~ NE, of the best liked hats for sum
L j mer is the picturesque affair with
a wide brm, one side rolled and
flowers on the lower brim. White
organdy bonnets with lace frills and
flowers are for midsummer wear. Flat
effects in large hats are simply trim
med with velvet or narrow Ottoman
ribbon bands, or a large bow of six to
eight inches wide. A pagoda shaped
hat of open straw has a very floppy
brim and a high, pointed crown. A very
large sailor is trimmed with band
of old blue ribbon, with a pearl cabo-
chon.t and is worn tipped down and
up toward the back. Lemonade color
straw pokes are trimmed with orna-
ments of the straw made into large
knotty heads.
A very smart hat hiss brim of straw
and the crown of felt. Another has
light weight pastel shaded felt for the
brim and crown, with a facing of
straw.
Very tall, close-fitting hats should
be worn by only the round faced girl
They are trimmed with puffs of tulle
forming a bow, full and high, perched
at 1ne DaCR ana Top Vi the Ilo"I II, "a
high on the side. Dropping brim eff
fects are in the Peg Woftington and
Dolly Warden shapes
Hats with a f1oppy drop to the brim
are trimmed with wreath of flowers
and long ribbon strings of picot- edged
ribbon or velvet streamers. Trench
shape turbans are made entirely of RIB
bon. pretty use of ribbon is where
narrow velvet ribbons are laced all
over a hat and tied here and there IN
quaint bows.
An 1870 asilor hat is small. oblong
and rather fiat, the brim at the back
orten being turned up as nest for
flowers There is high sailor with a
lifted brim for ribbon or Mowers
\ box-crown sailor is odd. as is also
four-cornered sailor, and the sailor
with the back sharply cut off. Sport
hats are made of color and white strip
ed mohair, Jersey silk. etc. A smart
sport hat is made of ribbon with
white cord edge and a black straw
facing Linen and taffeta are also fa-
vored sport hat coverings. Porcupine
straws are among the braids used for
sport hats.
Pokes and mushroom hats are popular.
Hair hats in dainty shades are worn, as
are also models trimmed with hair lace.
The various haircloth facngs now sold
c2ma. " .disfaIelL widths and are used
Evening star., 1916-06-25
MIL LsIEIlE,RY I'm LATEST MODES.

for hat trimmings and for stiffening
bands and bows.
MaIine looks well on a hair founda ton.
as does also creme in combination as tho
crowns or facing. Rich handmade en-
broideries are applied to straw as a
trimming \ useful novelty. two ot
which may trim hat. is q. large spike
head on long hat pin in imitation
pearl. jet. crystal, coral. seed pearl, etc.
Helmet and leaf wings are smart
Glazed effects and wax finishes ara
much used. Straws in contrast show
tan and pink blue and lime, and Afri-
can and French blue. High ruche effects
for hat trimmings are of tufle. horse
hair, lace or ribbon. Many ribbon wings
are effectively used.
Evening star., 1916-06-25

waist with old fashioned darts in the
front over the shoulders there is d
double cape and high. rolling collar
stands back from the neck.
Surely there viii soon be a violent
protest over the land against the re-
turn of the Merry Widow hat. Its ac-
ceptance has been gradual, but 1t seems
to be established at last
1t is all very well in summer time
in the open spaces. but what VIII We
do with ii if it lasts through the
winter 1t has an eXtravagant brfm.
an evenly balanced. regular brim that
stretches out from the face like a sun
shade.
AS yet. il has no name, but it is said
that Paris created il through a MeNi-
can inspiration. its shape is taken
from the hats worn throughout Mex
leo ana il is offered to us as a pleas
ant little reminder that we are having
troubles of our own with our neigh =
bors on this continent.
In fashion France is neutral.
Evening star., 1916-06-25

low ones fancy anywhere in arranging
a wardrobe that is intended purely
for the immediate present.
A word of advice, however. should
be given to that class of women who
take advantage of sales in order to
prepare themselves for the future. This
class grows larger and larger every
year in America. its size being in +.
creased through the persuaslveness OF
those who have bargains to offer.
Next week clothes will probably be
at their minimum prices for the season.
In the shops and at the dressmaktng
places clothes will be offered at what
is called below cost At these sales
a wholesale clearance of everything
is made by the commercialtsts, as they
do not care to carry stock any longer
prices are tempting and the clothes
suit the fashions of the hour there
are hundreds of women who take ad-
vantage of these bargains and buy cos
tunes that they think will give them
good service when the frs frost comes.
The process of buying good clothes
at reduced rates at this season is one
that appeals to the economist, and on
the surface, it seems an efficient way
TO dispose of money, but, in truth. 1t
is one of the most hazardous expert
ments.
II is one of those instances in which
majority do what only small
minority are capable of doing A wom-
an who does not keep herself well
advised concerning the changes in
clothes runs every chance of putting
into her wardrobe that which should
never be taken out.
The latest thing in June is apt to be
the oldest thing N October. The cloth
suit that looks admirable in the shop
and which is guaranteed by the per
suasive seller as Frances latest pro-
duction may not give service more
than three times during the hot
weather. and when one gleefully takes
IN from the closet in October with that
yirtuous feeling OF forehandedness 1t
will present such pitisble contrast
70 the new clothes that it can never
be worn.
If A woman has an Immediate use
Evening star., 1916-06-25

for the clothes that she buys at bar
gain prices she need have little hest
tancy in taking advantage of whatever
sales there are this month
It is true that the minority who
keep abreast of the changes in clothes
are not wearing the exact silhouette
Of April. but in buying these April
clothes. which in some cases are at the
irreducible minimum one can feel that
they are quite good enough for the
next two months.
Thousands of women Will be wear
ing them, and unless YOU cherish an
ambition 10 he one of the exclusive
minority, or TO show your neighbors
what is to be. rather than what Is.
there is no reason why YOU Should
Evening star., 1916-06-25

that the Russian blouse effect has van
ished
There are dozens of models which
incorporate all these features and
which are now placed at prices below
cost and are entirely tempting in the
quality and workmanship involved.
The question 10 ask oneself is
whether they are worth while as an
investment. | think not. If a woman
has no hestancy in buying a gown
on the basis that ii has enough ma
terial in it for alteration into another
style. then she will not be deferred
into putting her money into skirts
that are built for eighteenth century
pictures
There are women who have q passion
Evening star., 1916-06-25

not wear the clothes of today until
the middle of September.
The reason for accenting the proph-
ecies that come from Paris, that We
shall wear slim skirts, which was done in
the first part of this story, is gently TO
warn the bargain buying woman against
exaggerated fullness, especially over the
hips.
A correspondent writes that there IS
not pannier in Paris, and, while this
may be an exaggerated statement IT
is wise to take il meaning that
we should avoid the buying of pan
nierS over here.
There is an additional statement that
the waists of ali garments are above
rather than below. the normal, ana
Evening star., 1916-06-25
Candied Orange Peel.

m OVER orange peel with cold water
" and bring slowly to a boil. sim
merng until it is soft Drain 1t. and with
a spoon scrape out all the white part
Cut the yellow part into thin strips and
drop into srup made in proportion OF
one cup of sugar TO half cup Of water.
boiled until il threads. Cook the strips
of peel in this for five minutes. drain
and roll in granulated suSar.
Evening star., 1916-06-25
Special Correspondence of The Star.

NEW YORK. June "a. 1915.
1n0 T GIVES one a feeling of dis
w III couraSement to hear that
Paris is filed with change and
x restlessness regarding clothes
Its SO hot" we say, and new clothes
are such "a nuisance, so why can't We
rest serenelY till autumn"
The personal standpoint, however. is
not the one that governs the output
of clothes There is commercial
standpoint. which is important to both
France and America.
France is restless because she is ex-
perimenting with new ideas to launch
in August During the month of July
the great and small designers work
like beavers in the half-closed dress
making houses all over the city. 1t
is quite probable that they have
formulated their styles. and. although
there is a surface appearance of keen
rivalry among them. and they are. ap-
parently. quite ignorant of what the
others are striving for. and will shrug
their shoulders and say they have no
Evening star., 1916-06-25

Beets retain their delicate. sugary ia
vor much better if baked instead of
boiled Put in the oven with little wa
ter in the bakepan and turn frequently.
using a knife as a fork allows the juice
to run out When very tender 'and at
this time OF the year old beets require
several hours) remove the skin. slice
and serve with little olive oil and tritie
of lemon juice or with pepper salt ana
butter, as preferred.
Beets as a GarniSh.
Beets as a garnsh are always effective
unless used in combination with carrots
cold green of cucumbers or lettuce or
attractiXe.
Beet Cups.
Beets, like tomatoes. may be cut into
cups after boiling and chilling, and a
potato or other salad served in them.
Boiled Beets.
Boiled beets. like most other root
vegetables. are insipid if boiled in soft
water. They require to be plunged at
once in salt water. either hot or cold. In
the latteF case DFlnB quichly 70 tle Doil-
ing point, then boil rapidly for an hour
and a half for young beets and an hour
longer-or forever as an old cook book
quantity puts it--for old ones. In pre-
pairing beets for either baking or boiling
they should be washed thoroughly, but
care exercised not to break the skin or
tips of the roots. nor to trim off the
leaves too close. If they are bruised or
cut they bleed" and lose their distinctive
color.
When tender lift one by one from the
saucepan, without piercing the skin. drop
into cold water for a moment, when the
skin will slip off like a glove; then re-
turn to the water in which they were
boiled to cool. unless they are to be eaten
hot In this case cut the beets in thin
slices or small cubes then put in a sauce
pan with the amount of butter needed to
season, sprinkle with pepper and a little
sugar toss lightly until heated and serve.
Another time use hot cream instead
of butter. adding when hot a teaspoon
full of lemon juice and the same amount
Of sugar. In seasoning beets. hot or
cold the Germans use whole cloves.
which give an extremely pleasant
flavor.
QQoCkzTEkE0RQ~
Evening star., 1916-06-25
JUNE ROSE PETAL SWEETS

orrisroot. two ounces of dried orange
and lemon peel. ten grains of musk and
whatever you have in the way of dried
violets. Glove pinks. tuberoses, orange
blossoms. lemon Verbena and bergdmot.
A little dried rosemary is also good.
Now pack the rose leaves in the jar IN
layers, putting the fragrant mixture OF
spices, etc, between each layer. hen
filled pour in liquid mixture made
from pint of Florida toilet water, the
same amount of magnolia water, with
the essential oils of jasmine, rose
geranium, violet. rosemary or any 9TH
er perfumes desired.
Shake and stir every few days and
open daily a few moments. taking care
not to leave 1t uncovered any length
of time. The best time to open the jar
is in the morning after the rooms have
been freshened and prepared for the
day Rose leaves and other fragrant
flowers may be added all through the
season. but salt must be used also as in
the beginning. This will retain its
delicate fragrance for a quarter of a
century and should be in evidence at
the silver wedding.
Rose sirup.
Rose sirup is most delicate and deli
cious in summer when added to glass
of water by the spoonful. 1t also
makes a delightful addition to a cake
or pudding Cut fragrant roses in full
bloom and spread on a brown paper or
tray to prevent mildeW. When you
have collected enough to make a glass
full or two, put the leaves in small
saucepan, with just enough water to
cover. and simmer until tender. Meas
ure out as much sugar as you have
bulk of leaves and cook together until
a rich, sweet sirup results. Pour into
bottles or pint cans and keep in a cool.
dark place.
Rose Flavoring.
An easy way to prepare rose havorins
for home use is to fill bottles or jars
with rose petals. packing them down
tightly to make the essence as strong
as possible. Pour in enough fresh alco-
hol to submeree the leaves, cork tight
ly and set away for few weeks until
the alcohol is thoroughly impregnated
with the flavor of the roses.
Crystallized Rose Petals.
Select re, !eci, fragrant blossoms
separate into ielalS, spread on au III
Evening star., 1916-06-25

verted sieve and stand in the air until
dry, but not crisp. Make heavy slrup'
using one cup each of granulated sugar
and water. and cook without stirring
until il spins a thread. Flavor this
sirup with q few drops of essence OF
rose and color with a tiny bit OF CO
clinical. Now drop the leaves IN one
by one. using a fine wire, take out ana
drain on the creased sieve. Turn once
in the process of drying, which will
take several hours If the leaves then
look preserved and clear they VIII need
no further dipping, but if the petals
seem dry and not candied, dip again,
dust with sifted sugar and dry. Serve
on bonbon saucerS.
Homemade Altar of Roses.
Select two glasses, one small enough
to ft in the neck of the other. Partly
fill the larger jar with fresh fragrant
petals and invert it over the smaller,
in which has been placed fine. abso-
lutely clean sponge soaked in olive
oil. Prop up the two bottles in the
strong sunshine until the petals are
withered. then remove and fill with
the fresh Keep this up during the
rose season. utilizing all the petals that
can be obtained When the season is
over. rinse the sponge in alcohol and
you have the essence of altar. II you
have a large quantity of petals you
may squeeze the oil out of the sponge
without adding alcohol, which gives
the real altar. By diluting either altar
or extract you have a delicious flavor
ing.
Preserved Roses.
Take q jar of the same dimensions
top and bottom-straight-u and down
shape is desirable because its contents
may be turned out easily-and on the
bottom sprinkle a layer of granulated
sugar. then a layer of rose leaves and
so on until the jar is full the last layer
being sugar.
When filed paste two or three layers
of paper over it to make alright ana
set away in cool dark place where
the mice cannot get at it, The oil In
the rose petals crystallizes the sugar
and by autumn you Will have deli
cious confection.
Beets Your Best Tonic.
Boiled beets served with oil and salt
we're favorite dish with the old Greeks
and Romans. who held that they kept
the blood pure and inspired the appetite.
.aaiish and German housewives follow
the same cult andNprepere -beste- t8.1n