davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
Linen SUITS LIKED
MATERIAL POPULAR WITH FASH.
IoNABLE EUROPEANS.
Sketch Shows Model In Soft Silver
Gray-collars and Trimmings Of
Rich Fur Accompany Coats
Made of White Linen. II

My drawing shows a linen costume
which was specially created for the
racing season at San Sebastian. writes
Idalia de villiers, special c~orrespon-
dent Of the Boston Globe. The color
of the suit was a beautifully soft silver
gray, and the panel embroideries on
the skirt were executed in washlne
silks in the same color.
The coat had an exceptionally full
basque and the waistline was very
slightly raised. Then there was a su-
perb collar of chinchilla.
This suit was created for a we'll
known Spanish beauty who has a villa
ut Biarritz, and who never fails to
make a sensation, by reason of her
wonderful clothes, on the Grande
PLACE in August aud September. This
same lady has ordered IA number of
linen suits in brilliant colors, such as
sapphire blue, orange, rose Duburry
and Gar violet.
Almost all these linen coats have
collars or trimmings Of rich fur, and
they are to be accompanied by fragile
blouses in flmy tulle and by large fiat
brimmed hats covered with hutter's
plush or crepe de chine. Linen suits
In very brilliant colors will play a
prominent role in the world of fash
ion this summer.
They will be simple in detail but
highly original in design. They will
Vie with the dead white dresses and
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

little trouble, however, most artistic
ones Il be made at home at very lit
tie cost.
Two strong pieces of cardboard will
be needed, each TO east S inches by
IL inches, and about half a yard of
holland, cretonne or linen. The ma
terial must be double the size of one
piece of cardboard, allowing . or 8
inches over, both in length and width.
To make: lay the pieces Of card
board down on the wrong side of the
material as in small sketch. leaving l
inch between the cardboards. Now
nick the edges of the material all
round mucilage them or brush e
with paste and fuSten them down to
the cardboard that lies on the inside
of the blotter.
When this is quite secure aud dry,
take two pieces of paper the size of
the cards, white or colored, and paste
them over the cardboard so that none
of the edges of the material show. The
little pieces Of material between the
two boards form the backs; the ends
of these must be cut to the height of
the backs and neatly pasted down.
Sew at the top of this back on the
inside al end of fine elastic, and Sc
cure the other end TO the bottom of
the back. Cut several sheets of white
blotting paper a trife smaller than the
blotter and slip under the elastic; this
holds them firm and a kind of book
Is made.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

ton. Pansies and nasturtlums are in
this class. Nasturtiums are particu-
larry effective in bowls of old blue
or delicate green china, or in glass
bowls with the delicate green stems
showing through the glass. These
flowers may be used in thick clusters.
Use with the blossoms a few of the
leaves, but never combine other foliage
with these flowers. Peonies are beau
tiful when placed In a wide-mouthed
vase that permits them to arrange
themselves naturally.
Sweet peas should be cut with the
longest possible stems, and no attempt
made to arrange them before they are
put into vases. Use only white, pink,
pale yellow and lavender together. The
deep colored do not harmonic we'll
with the delicately colored. Drop a
handful into a vase, give it a shake,
and each flower will seem TO settle
into the place where it belongs.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

Hawtrey was in every way Elllman's
superior. He could swim and shoot
better, and outpace him and once
he challenged Gilman to a boxing
match and bruised his lip and black
ened one eye.
Gilman IA thinking. He found II
difficult to detach his mind from his
invention. But now and again the
thought of HGYtrey would recur to
him in an irritating way. The eli
a arrived that afternoon when he
came quietly through the woods and
overheard Hawtrey's declaration.
why do you stay with that slow
coach, dear?" he was asking. whats
simpler than TO throw him over and
come away with me? He doesn't care
for you. All that interests him is that
boat of his"
He put his arm about her, but she re-
pulsed him quietly.
You know you've married a clown,
Nancy" went on Hawtrey remorse-
lessly.
"Yes," she said gravely. But still,
he's my husband"
That was all Gilman heard, for he
came slowly up the path and they saw
him. But Hawtrey called m~ockingly
in welcome, and neither suspected that
Gilman had heard.
I've got a surprise for you both"
said Gilman the next morning.
What, a surprise" inquired Haw-
trey. Really, Gilman, your inventive
ness Is astounding"
you are the life and soul Of the
place." said Nancy, mockingly.
II want you two," Gilman went on,
ito come aboard my boat. She's fin
ished. and I'll take you on a submarine
cruise round the lake."
"Not If | know it," answered Haw-
trey. "None of your submarines for
me-"
"Of course, If you are afraid" said
Gilman.
"What the devil are you talking
about?" demanded Hawtrey angrily,
with a glance at Nancy.
"Well, If you think it's too risky you
ueeuH COne.
SIN not afraid OF anything you can
plan," sneered Havtrey. 'Shau we go,
Mrs. Elliman?"
"Tl go II you want me to-" answered
Nancy, not to her husband, but to
Hawtrey.
Il guess we may as well see the poor
old buffers invention" said Hawtrey,
with a short laugh
Eliimaa led the way along the plank
aboard his craft. She was a big
m~odel--1ust large enough to contain
the three of them. They were tightly
wedged, however. and had hardly
room to turn round. Gilman leaped
alsoard and pushed of. He started the
electric engine. Then he reached up.
pulled down the hatch, and bolted it.
They could Q nothing through the
! frosted pane, and the Light was very
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
Friction Baths.
Is Tnlue.

A salt rub in the morning after a
hot night is very invigorating. Use
ordinary oarse salt, or the sea salt
that is bought in boxes. Soak a hand
full in a small quantity of water. Then
rub the skin briskly with it, body and
limbs, until a glow results. After this
some bathers like either a hot or
cold sponge with fresh water, while
others consider that the salt water
has a tonic effect if left to dry in.
Just plain dry friction, too, is ex
cellent In stimulating the skin. A
loofah, a mitten Of linen crash, or
n knitted of q hard cord material,
are all good to use. This follows the
ordinary daily sponge bath-or, to
replace the bath, use the friction with
water, dipping the mitten in cold wa
ter and rubbing briskly, drying each
part before proceeding to another.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
The Model.
Submarine
@
Blu GEORGE MUNSoN
VCoDyright, 1916. by W. G. ChapnanO

W. ~ ShaphAdhsl
The quiet man is often deceptive.
Jim Hawtrey did not know that when
he made love to Elliman's wife. Eli
man was an inventor, and he had rent
lake to conduct experiments with his
model submarine.
He had known Hawtrey long before,
and invited him to pay them a visit,
to cheer up his wife. Nancy Gilman
was lonely. She had married her hus-
band four years before, and when
there are no children four years is
the dangerous age of marriage.
Hawtrey was one of those fellows
who do not understand quiet men.
He was the life and soul of his club,
and he started a Irritation to while
away the time. But what was play
to him vas tragedy to poor Nancy.
Her quiet, sober husband, always
pottering about his boat, was a foil
for the brilliant blackguard who
planned to betrsy his home. Hawtrey
soon enlisted Mrs. Elliman's sympa-
thies against her husband, yet so
subtly that at first she herself was I'M
aware of the part she played.
When Hawtrey brought down a~deer
Gilman was sent to skin it, and Haw-
trey took Mrs. Gilman for a row, re-
turning to find Gilman in a disgusting
state, and his fingers bleeding from
a bad cut of the knife. 1t was Haw-
trey, again, who put q dead %porcupine
In Elliman's bed. And it was Haw-
trey who feigned illness and sent him
on a ten-mile tramp through the woods
to a nonexistent doctor, while he made
love to Mrs. Gilman during his abb
sence.
That was what awakened Gilman
to the part he was playing. But then
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

the close-1tting turban TO the very
broad-brimmed sailors. They include
mushroom brims, those that show a
colonial inspiration, the Napoleon, and
many 'tams." Many inequalities in
width abound in a single brim and all
sorts of curvings, droopings, and lift
lngs make them interesting.
Trimmings are eXquisitely made and
they are designed TO emphasize the
contour of the shape, or at least not
to interfere with its lines. Tinsel
braids, bead and silk embroidery, mar
row ribbons and fancy feathers are
among the most important trimmings.
AT the center Of the picture a wide
brimmed mushroom shape is shown.
1t is made of black velvet and the fac
ing is of satin in a contrasting color.
1t will be noticed that the brim widens
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
In Woman's Realm
Coat Suits for Fall and Winter Show Little Changes in Style,
Though Their Designers Have Been Successful in Turning
Out Becoming and Beautiful Garments - Illustration
Shows Some Of the New Millinery Styles.

A review of numbers of new coat
suits for fall and winter reveals only
minor changes in style and no radical
new departures in trimmings and fin
ish. But styles are reserved and ele-
CANT, lines are trim and becoming, and
colors are beautiful, so the new fall
suits are destined to satisfy even an
exacting taste. Manufacturers say
that ONE are growing more discrim-
mating and that the demand is for
good materials and exact workman
ship as well as smart style.
AS to changes in styles, coats are
longer than they have been and many
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
Double Faced Tailored Suits.

Among the early fall shows are a
considerable number Of severely cut
tailored suits made of double faced
materials and colored tremendously.
One of the most attractive of these
seen last week vas of deep wine pur-
Pile faced with puce. The skirt was
cut with straight front and back pam
els and circular hips and the hem was
uneven so that with every movement
the light facing Of the under side was
visible. The bottom of the skirt was
blanket stitched with heavy purple
floss and a very little of this stitching
was used on the cOut, which was cut
snug round the shoulders, but with u
rippled body. The collar was high and
stood out well from the chin in front
and was piped with seal.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

dim. The gathering of the engine
seemed to I'LL the whole boat.
"Huhl Nice sort Of tripr" sneered
Hawtrey. won't we see more than
this on the observation trlpT
The peculiar look on Elliman's face
startled him. The air was very stuffy,
anyhow.
"Put back" Hawtrey said angrlly.
what sort of practical joke is this?"
Nancy" said Gilman, do you love
this man? Do you wish for a divorce,
or am l your husband?"
"What" yelled Hawtrey, leaping up.
$50 you've been eavesdropping, have
you, you cur? Take that hatch of in
stantly or I'll thrash your
"If you wish t drown hrre, you
may raise the hatch" responded ELI
man.
Hawtrey sank back with a curse.
Gilman was undoubtedly the master
Of this situation.
"Hawtrey, I'm not as brilliant as
you" said Gilman. IF 1 were a red
blooded man like you I'd challenge you
to a duel-not because l want to de-
tain Mrs. Gilman against her will, but
because it's my duty to protect her
against blackguards like you. As 1t is,
I'm going to offer you another sort of
duel" He picked up three objects
from beside him.
1.-Two of these are oxygen MASKS"
he said, with q reservoir of oxygen in
side. The third has no reservoir. The
air in here will be exhausted within
half IN hour. Mrs. Gilman will wear
n of these masks. You shall take
your pick of the two others. They look
exactly alike, only one is not charged.
The n who picks the oxygen will WIN
Mrs. Gilman"
what nonsense !" yelled Hawtrey,
breathing heavily. Let us out at once,
confound youl"
He raised his fist th%reateningly, but
Gilman only looked at him quietly and
held out the two masks. Nancy said
not a word. Her eyes were on her hus-
bands face.
(which do you choose?" asked ELL
man.
Hawtrey began to buster. Let me
out !" he shouted! IL didn't come here
to fool with a lunatic. Old man." he
added, "Tm sorry for what 1 did. I'm
sorry I've fooled you. 1t was only u
joke between Mrs. Gilman and me.
For Gods sake let me out" he pleaded,
clasping Gilman about the knees in
his AFFECTION. I'll go straight away,
l swear it. /"
Gilman unbolted the hatch. A food
of daylight streamed in. As Hawtrey
leaped for the entrance he saw the
plank still in position and the shore
within ten feet. The vessel had never
moved.
That was what Nancy saw as she
turned to gaze at her husband wonder
"Ha, ha!" laughed Hawtrey. II
guess you fooled us, s~lowcoach, didn't
you? Mrs. Gilman"
But in the pointing of Nancy's fin
ger there was something so imperious
that Hawtrey hurried away. A minute
or two later they saw him sink
through the bushes, and out of their
lives. And Nancy turned to her hus-
band.
Forgive me-forgive me !" she muir
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

hand with smart-looking. The longer
skirt is not as attractive as the short
model.
A good example of the new styles
appears in the street suit shown. 1t
is of duvetlne In dark brown and en-
ploys a little silk braid Of the same
color, with bone buttons for adorn-
ment. The skirt is plain and moder-
ately full. The Goa is an excellent
model for a stout figure, with an I'M
broken line down the front and a flare
to Its skirt that Is not calculated to
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
How to Arrange Flowers.

Flowers to be cut for use in vases
must have long stems. Dahlias are
very fine for vase use. Do not crowd
into Il vase flowers enough to supply
half a dozen vases. When grouping
cut flowers, remember that quality
and not quantity is what should gov
cru. Have stalks long enough to lift
them well above the vase in which
they are placed. Before cutting bios
sons, study the general appearance
Of the plant from all sides. Let the
plant itself tell you how its blossoms
should be clustered.
ShOrt-stemmed flowers should be
placed in low, fiat bowls. They are
especially attractive for table decora-
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

tailored suits which are so dear to the
hearts of our more exclusive Pari-
sienneS.
AS l said, in a recent article, the
true Parisienne will wear pure white,
black and white or soft gray, ali
through the summer and AUTUMN For
her, brilliant colors are out of the
question. She has known so much of
sorrow and anxiety since the outbreak
of this terrible war that she has no
inclination to appear in brlght-hued
gowns.
But the lovely American and Span
fish girls in our midst have other ideas.
For them the great dressmakers and
ItailOrs in the Rue de la Paix and Place
IVendome have designed costumes in
butterfly tints, and for this fact we
feel intensely grateful, for a linen suit
in bright rose linen, or even in emer-
aid green, is Il CHEEKY sight on a glo-
rious summer day.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

widen the figure. Even the collar
lengthens the neck and shoulder lines.
Three pretty new hats, each an ex-
ponent of its particular kind of mil
linery, are shown in the group pic
tured. They are of velvet and Of felt
and velvet. So far, velvet dominates
the season, but there are close seconds
to 1t in popularity. Hatter's plush,
velours, felt, and soft, brilliant silks
and satins are used, alone or in con-
junction with velvet, for making the
new shapes.
Shapes the coming fall are charac-
terlzed by great variety in size. from
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
Mirror Balls for Table.

New decorations for the center of
the dining table are mirror balls set
In standards of dark wood just big
enough to poise them.
Mirror balls do not limit themselves
to white mirror color. They come also
delicately tinted In yellows, pinks. wa
ter greens and blues. They effective
ly reflect the lighting, crystal, silver
and floral decorations of the table,
not to omit the people gathered about
the board.
Especially effective is n Of these
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
To Remove Glass Shoppers.

1t often happens that a glass stop
per becomes Obdurate and refuses to
come out, yielding neither to persua-
sion nor force. Next time 1t occurs,
try holding tn neck of the bottle in hot
water until the neck is thoroughly
heated. Then drop a few drops of oil
on 1t where 1t fits into the bottle leave
1t stand for five minutes, and you will
find that the stopper ~ill come u
easily.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
Study Your Good Points.

There are two little rules which,
when understood and learned. ought
to form a basis for any woman who
wants to look attractive. The first is
bring out your good points and the
second is conceal your bad ones. In
other words, the art of dressing de
Ponds upon your remembering that you
are an individual and determining tx
nctly what kind of an individual you
are.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

at the back. Its simple decoration is
made Of a ruche of box-plaited ribbon
tied in a rosette at the base of a spray
of fancy feathers at the front.
The small turban at the left is In
burgundy felt with a wide collar Of
velvet about 1t. Velvet ribbon in two
shades is drawn through sIashes in the
collar. Loops of gilt cord and two pen
dent balls finish the trimming.
The small colonial shape at the
right is in black velvet trimmed with
two curving feathers in black also.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
credIt to Farmers, wlx..

The Of the farms are eco,
nomically important. They feed the
men who till the farms; and until
men can go to work without breakfast
and to bed without supper. the women
whs feed them must be given credit
for their share in the growing crops.
The food they preserve is no small
item in the national wealth.-Saturday
Evening Post.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

great luminous balls set in among one
OF the large shallow basin bowls, used
now as a little lake for single floating
flowers, gives a pleasing fantastic eff
feet which may be further enhanced
by posing here and there on the ball
several of the new celluloid butter
flies that come for flower bowl deco
ration.
Mirror balls are becoming popular
also for porch decoration, and In the
very large sizes for garden adornment.
For garden ornaments they come set In
wrought metal standards,
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09

inch-wide strips. braided carefully so
that all raw edges are folded in and
the braid rolled into round or oval
mats, from a few inches In diameter
to larger size. The braids are stitched
into place on the under side as they
are rolled.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
For a True Bias.

To obtain a true bias place the mate
rial tiat on the cutting table and with
a ruler or u yardstick laid across one
corner draw a line with chalk or col
ored pencil. Use this line for a guide
In cutting.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
Chintz Table Mats.

No one need be without table mats
II they care to follow these directions,
which even the children can carry
Out. The result Is pretty n useful.
The mats are braided from strips OF
bright colored chintz- 1t is torn into
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
Blotter Always of Use.

A blotter is one of the most useful
things either to have for ones own use
or to give to a friend.
They make most handsome presents,
but are expensive to buy. With very
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
ALWAYS PAY for plsohedlence.

Obedience is economy. ~Dlsohedience.
extravaganza. He who disoh-ys the
laws of nature has a doctor bill to pay.
lie who disobeys the laws If his coun-
try has q lawyers bill to pay.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1916-09-09
On Your ParasoI.

Embroider your name on d narrow
piece of silk ribbon and sew it on the
strap or inside of your parasol. 1t
provides an excellent and ~lnconspicu-
Gus mark of ownership.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09
Returns From Durkee.

Deputy Game Warden George Ton
kin returned yesterday from Durkee
where he took John Meeley, also
known as John Irvine, who was found
guilty of shooting Chinese pheasants
at Durkee last March. Meeley was
arrested this week at the Shumway
ranch near Echo. His sentence Of
500 and so days Jail was suspended
by Justice Planting.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09
DON Gloves % settle Dlspute.

Sequelllng a SNOWFALL episode OF
last winter, ten round bout with
padded gloves was staged last night
at the Frank Frazier barn on Tutuilla
creek between Harry Minnis and Al
Richardson, colored porter at the st.
George Hotel. Last winter Minnis
droIped a SNOWFALL on Richardson's
head and the mill has been brewing
ever s!nee. The news of the bout
ssrresg oYeF, The city .sast evening ana
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09
Eoothan Star Here.
Pendleton

Harold Casey, star Pendleton
high school football player. is back
from Portland where he has been
visiting. He will turn out for foot
ball again this year. Casey was one
of the grittiest players in eastern Ore
gon last year. He has been working
most Of the summer in a harvest field
and is in good condition.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09
Echo Road Now Good.

w. ]. Wattenburger, road super.
visor of the Echo district, is here to.
day and reports that, as result OF
the strawing which has been done,
the road to Echo is now in good
shape. In all about 12 miles has been
strawed this side of Echo Mr.. Wat.
tenberger has also been improving
the butter creek road by putting on
hay spoiled by the spring floods.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09
Boost the Roundup.

Pendleton boosters who wish to let
their friends and relatives know
about the Roundup. can do so by
using Roundup envelopes with type
and illustration printed in beautiful
colors. These envelopes may be Sc
cured in any quantity at the East
Oregonian office for one cent each
Adv.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09
\ shipment From Germany

Sol Baum has just received a ship
ment of so dozen Roundup dolls
from Germany. They were IA months
On the road with a $4,000 shipment
of toys consigned to NJ. Seller & So,
Of Portland. The shipment was seiz-
ed BY the allies and held in a prize
court for long time before it was
finally brought through.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09
visited Hellx w. G. T. II.

The county officers of the w. C. T
Y. visited yeserday with the w. C. T.
U. organization at Helix and session
was held that indicated the Helix so
eiety to be in flourishing shape. Many
OF the members are preparing to at.
tend the state convention to be held
in Pendleton from october II to goth.
The Officers making the visit included
Mrs. ]. c. Woodwork, president; Mrs.
A. F, May vice president. and Mrs
g. w. Rugg, secretary-treasurer.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1916-09-09

Henry ]. Taylor, chairman Of the
natatorium committee, announces
that owing to the cold weather today
the natatorium will be closed today
and tomorrow morning. Provided
the cold weather continues there is a
possibility the tank will be closed fol
the year. The place, It IS said, will be
able to pay all Of It's bills in good
shape as good season has been en-
ioyed.