davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07
NEW COATS

NEl UT coats for autumn and win-
 ter are longer Short tall, k.a2j thin and stout women must be costunied. and while a 36-lnch long coat may be quite long on the woman of petite dimensions, on ltrg- CT woman it is mere jacket. There fore, there is tendency to speak of medium length coat as fingcr-tip length of the longer model by indicating how near to the skirts hem it shall come. A suit running fnger-tip length will. 1t is predicted, be the most popular model for this season. However, many great deal shorter are to be seen, and in the handsome dressy suits developed of rich velTets and satins many coats are so long that the merest glimpse of the skirt is permitted.
 The greatest possible variety obtains in the treatment of collars. The tendency is to favor high type of col lar, or rather one that may be worn high if the Wearer so desires. The scarf collar with long, graceful ends is to be seen, and also a great many novel choker effects.
 Rich colorings are featured in many fall and winter suits. A number of dark reds. purple and wistaria. several shades of green, African brown and navy are listed as favorites.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07
TRAINING YOUR CHILD
BY MRS. McCUNE.

V5 ANY of the pioneer grandmoth- 1k1T CTS possessed of wonderful hearts and heads were yet
 forced to fight out the prob lem of mere physical existence for themselves and theirs alongside of their husbands. They learned very quickly that if horse is "soft in the mouth" the worst thing you can do is to pull on the bit constantly. Yet their ideas of raising" their own chil- dren is best epitomized in the familiar order of the mother to the nurse "Go out and see what Johnny is doing and whatever he is doing tell him to stop." The evil results in the case of the horse were direct and easily traceable. | In the case of the sensitive child this constant pulling on the bit" worked a more subtle and far reaching ruin. We would by no means decry whole sale the methods employed by our grandmothers in training many of the great and good men of the world: we would plead that the mother of today. released from the physical strain of merely prolonging life, is expected to make line art of shaping the young fife entrusted to her guidance.
 The progress of the world is clogeed with self-conscious, self-distrustful persons who. lest they do something wrong, do nothing at all. We will find that in the childhood memories of these negative personalities there fig ures largely the constant head shaking of we'll meaning but unthinkjng mother, who believed she was doing her full duty by her child if she re- strained every impulse of his in this donkey fashion. "The heart of man is prone to all evil and backward to all good," the Bible does tell us, but it also tells us we must become as little children" to enter the kingdom Of heaven
 Undoubtedly the reason this method of training has become so popular a tradition from generation to genera tion is because it is so easy, requires no mental effort and fits all emergen cies. The man who votes the demo- cratic ticket because his father voted it; the religious devotee who prays be- cause it can't do any harm and may do some good, and the mother who puts a veto on every natural impulse of her child, all belong to the same class the mentally lazy. The evil effects Of this laziness may stop with the voter and the devotee himself, but in the case of the mother it may amount to criminal negligence toward the child.
 A child generalizes very quickly. when his infallible judge-his mother
 -pronounces a number of his acts "bad" which his child's brain declares good" he is bound to reach one of two conclusions, either of which is fatal. He will begin to mistrust his mothers Judgment or, as is more often the case, he will dacide there is something wrong with Aimself. Then the activi-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07
HOW TO WEAR YOUR CORSET Many Useful and Timely Hints On This
 Very Important Subject of Today.

Now abaut facing: I'ha1esbeen ,e corsetfere tor about 20 years, ,, and T find that lacing a corset has more to do with the fit a9l corset than ybutwould think. Ehe following is the proper way to fit a.. corset: Use hve-yard lacing, knot lends of five yards. In- sert ends of ,la1,es in toy eye2hts (from under);l puq1 haces through eyelets evenly until Vemporary knot Is be- tween the top eyelets; continue in serting. .from under on down until you come to tape sWaist line. The middle or center of thd waist tape is the waist line proper. EAsre skip one hole lNo. D, inserting laetng in eyelets (No. p nearest lower etage waist line Insert 1aces then from lover in eyaetsg(No. D skipped on the same side; leave loops. Contmueslacingon on down from under to eyelet opposite fhlllest partsof hip (not bottom of corseD and make double runner loops. Chntinue lacangsdown to bottom ofScorset from oven tying ends in a permanent, knot on each side. Leave your lacea knotted each side of top and bottom df corset Pull corset as far apart. as faces win permitr six to eight inches, s,re ady forsadjusung.
 Now, how to- sadjust corset. Com paratively few women ta1re the time or trouble to find Aout how to adjust a corset properly. New, hayang<1ek your corset six to eight inches apart, sfand with heels togetheH; place the corset we'll down on the heHre back and front; be sure that the w7aigt tape tor the smallest part of thei corset) is on the waist line of the hody. Now 1so many ask me if it makes a difference which hook you fazsten first. Hind in fastening the top hook fast it holds the corset on the figure. Take the bottom of corset on front steel sln each, hand; fasten the hook neIt ito the .bottom, then the bottom hooka then, open the top hook and fasten. sthe sremaiufng hooks.
 Grasp the-eorset at thesbottom with both hands and take a tdeep breathiand pull yourself up in yetur corset Pull the back of the corsetl well down into place Now fasten your gagters front. only we'll inside of tfle limbs so that the gartersswill not telr the cloth from the front stay. This heeDs the skirt from wrinkling and afiOws freedom in stepping up. Now taefe lacingdn each hand and give@a firm, a1en pulltstraight out (not up or downl and drop them. Do not tie. This anchors the corset at the waist line. Take hold of the hip loops the same asAthe waist Line; dra- very snug
 Do not pull H1ee corset together at the bottom. The corset when adjusted completely should be openl two end half to three inches equally distant at top and bottom and center. Tie tenn porarily Take up the slack in the lacings from the hip loops up to the waist, also from the top of the corset down to the waist. Drnwupsthetslack; tie the waist laces with a single loop about ene-half inch to the tnsidesof the back steel and insert the faces under the steel in the most convenient hnl- low of the body. Again pull hip places; tie with single Ioop.~the same as the waist, 4one-half inch from the back steel; insert faces understhe- back steel.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07
BAD HABITS AND THEIR CURE Draw On All Your Reserve Will Power and You'll Win In the Effort to Break Them.

flesh to form such deep gutters. Even an attempt to do so will be checked by the presence of the plaster. Deep lines give one an older look. and for this reason the drowning habit shCuj" be checked before it is too late. If lines have been formed 1t Is advisable to try to remove fhem by applying liberal amount of cold cream and mas saging with the finger tips. The mas sage will be most effective if it fol- lows steaming or washing of the face in hot water. The tips of the fingers should be dipped in cold cream, and then, the skin of the forehead should be deeply stroked from the middle line out over the temples.
 Going from the forehead to the feet, let us next consider the habit of walk ing with the feet turned inward, thus making one pigeon-toed. This is a habit that sometimes arises from a sore corn or some other ailment of the foot which causes one to walk in the most comfortable manner despite the effect the position of the feet has on ones gait. If you are among the guilty I suggest that you try walking an imaginary chalk line. Place one foot directly in front of the other. The ex- ercise will also be helpful to one who has just the opposite habit, that of turning the feet out too far when walk ing.
 It is really sad to see the number of women, and men, too, who are round shouldered. Whenever I see man or woman sitting in such an unnatural position l can imagine hear the lungs crying out for air. It is impossible for them to get sufficient oxygen when the framework of the body Is so doubled There are many causes of round shoulders. Among them are muscular or constitutional weakness, rapid growth, overwork, impure air or ill., ventilated rooms, acute illness, near sightedness not corrected by glasses, and lack of proper exercise. As soon as the cause is located strenuous effort should be made to remove it. A very simple procedure which will help in slight cases is to form the habit of sitting in the position illustrated. If you have a few minutes to relax make good use of your time and sit with the hands locked behind the head and the chest thrown out. Get the habit of walking with the abdomen held in, the chest out and the head held com- fortably erect. If you desire to prac- tice an exercise which will straighten round shoulders, you VII find the fol- lowing a very splendid one Stand erect with the arms extended at the sides, on a line with the shoulders, the palms of the hands pointing outward Then throw the arms backward in an effort to have the backs of the hands reach. Ten chances to one you won't be able to do it at first, but in time you will be able to accomplish the feat.
 If after reading the above you re- solve to correct any bad habit wEich you have acquired take your intimate friends into your confidence. Let them remind you of your fault when they find you indulging. They'll be only too willing to help you.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07
Walk a Chalk l1ne
 If TOuI8 Plgeon-toed
BY LUCILLE DAUDET.


 lEW ID you ever stop to think that lSAl rather the result of following
 good habits? This is an inn portant and a very serious matter when it is borne in mind that every one desires to be other than homely. Many of us are burdened with more bad habits than we are blessed With good habits, so for this reason talk on the breaking of bad habits will prove of interest to large percentage of readers.
 The breaking of bad habit is very difficult task, and only by persistency and an exertion of will power can 1t be done. One encouraging thought is the fact that the second attempt will be much easier than the first.
 Among the most common bad habits is the one of nail-biting. Conscien- tious mothers try hard to break this fault in early childhood, others pay no attention to it at all. However, the habit is sometimes not started until .one has reached a mature age. 1t IS then the duty of the offending one 10 break the habit herself. The practice is not only detrimental to attractive nails. but, 1t is an ugly sight to see woman chewing with fiendish fervor tha tins of her fingers. Some women ara string-minded enough to stop the ha ahit without any local help others rao,,ire assistance. It is when the hands are unoccupied that one 1rl- dulges in the habit; therefore, the rem edv is simple enough. Merely cover tha fingers with gloves or finger ups cut from old gloves. It will be mpos- sihIa then for the nails to be bitten.
 Another common habit is lip-biting' persons of a nervous temperament are g,,ilty of this. Two remedies have to he applied for this trouble. The first one consists. of measures to overcome the nervousness. Of course, if 1t IS oi serious nature a physician should be called in. If it is slight the patient should begin at once to effect cure Plenty of sleep. exercise. nourishine food and a change of environment are needed to restore strength to the nerves. And then to break the lip-bir' ing habit the lips should be covered with quinine so that just the minute the teeth reach them the person will be reminded of her effort to break the practice. The habit not only twists the face out of shape, but it cracks the skin of the lips so that they always look unsightly. Many women have been known to bite or wet the lips with the tongue just before entering z drawing room in order to bring colol brings the color, but in time 1t injuree to the lips. The action certainly the skin to such an extent that the greatest amount of color will not hide the roughness of the skins texture.
 Browning is nothing more than { habit. Sometimes it is caused by eye strain, but quite frequently it is dont when one is thinking intently. Whe1 convenient the guilty person should place piece of adhesive plaster on the forehead, as shown in the photograph It will then be imnnssihle to draw tht
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

ties of the little mind, instead of being directed to the outward world in which he will have to live, are directed in- ward. He begins studying and watch ing for himself and criticising his ev- cry movement lest he make "blun- der." From this time he will have as much chance of growing up into a pow erful, fQrceful. original personality as the man who watches his bicycle has of learning to ride
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07


 stances it is really nothing more, than a square yoke cut out at the neck. i~l RGANDIE, which is very thin Fl and sheer, does not need ln@G heavy starching, and it is per-
 haps better to do all the stiff ening of this material with gum ara bic. Add two tablespoonfuls of prepa red gum arabic water to a quart of luke warm water and dip the organdie, aft CT it has been dried. into this. Roll the garments into tight roll and al- low to get partly dry Have ready an atomizer containing lukewarm water. and with this atomize the outside of the roll, which will be drier than the inside. Iron the starched organdie on the wrong side as far as possible. ARIS decrees that the skirt length for the fal. be from lAI four to six inches from the
 floor and not an inch shorter Truly this is good news to the maior- 1ty of women, for though many of the extremists did go in for and wear skirts that were twelve and fourteen
 
 servative woman did not wear it above seven inches. It was largely due to this fact that the majority of women adopted the laced boot, for this style Of shoe has been featured with e 16- inch top, this affording an ample view of the angle. On the contrary, the but ton shoe does not lend itself to so ex- trenle height, consequently the mere conservative woman continued to wear it, and did not adopt the very short skirt. She realizes, also, that the but ton boot, when we'll fitted is infinitely more dressy and feminine than the laced shoes. The styles for fall are very attractive though not at all splashy in appearance. White and black glazed kid is to be extensively used, white tops with bronze vamps will also prove popular. Invariably white pearl buttons are featured ol else buttons in the same shade as the vamp. Button boots featuring clott topped and kid vamps will be showr in one-tOned effects in very attrac. tive manner. Stitching and perforat ing will also be featured, though ir conlDaratively conservative design
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

the waist. YOU VIII HIu tHdt in getting corset large enough to' IL the hips, if that is the case, you VIII require about one or two sizes larger.
 You will notice sometimes 3 corset will poke out in the back if you draw the corset up too tight at the top, then it destroys the lines in the same cor set. I have found when fitting cor sets that the majority need just lit tie shaped V taken up at the top of the corset next to steel of the lacing. That will correct that fault If your corset gets too large you may take seam right down the middle of the back each side next to this same back steel lac ing. If it is a 25 and you would like it 24 or 22, take up one-half inch seam each side or one inch seam each slde.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

PH TT upright, don't flop. It is an AI ungraceful and unrestful hab- A.7a1 it, which, unfortunately, many
 people fall into. It's bad for he lungs, for the figure, and bad for
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

HT1 HEN the handle knobs come off HtW tin or agate dish covers good
 way to make them good as
 ever is to tack cork o. in place of the lost knob Put larger end of cork against cover just over the hole left by the old knob, and drive a good sized tack through from the un- der side. One cork will stayton and last as long as the original knob
 ~ OTHING will better draw out in tM fammation caused by tears EA4 than to soak the eyes in hot
 water. To do this the cloth should be wet and laid over the lids, renewing as soon as the heat subsidies Ter minutes of this makes the whole face red, and as the blood recedes the lids bleach with the rest of the skin. E6l RINKINtf with meals greatly hAt dilutes the saliva. making mastication all the more diff1-
 cult; besides, in this way, the contents are easily softened and wash- ed dowE before being properly chewed. The painfully distended stomach, tbat feeling of being bloated and uncom- fortabIy full" arises in most cases from drinking with meals and is again caused by gas.
 f~ HOEs that are too large cause N almost as many corns as those kMl that are too small and ill-
 fitting stockings. which are either too short on the toes or so large that they lie in wrinkles. cause great deal Of trouble. If there are callouseE on tnc feet, tlie spots should be well rubbcI with piece of pumice stone not the powder, but the small stone that comes for that purpose.
 FIT HEN the wash boiler or any Riv pan or kettle. begins to leak
 " at an unexpected moment, and
 1t iS not convenient to get il soldered or to buy new one. a good some-made cement is made by taking the white of an egg and some fine coal or wood asl es and mixing together un- til paste is formed. Spread this mix ture On the hole on the outside of the vessel and hold over the fire until the egg is baked and it hardens. You vii be surprised at the durability of this simple ce,..enI.
 lV@Tl IRL possessing delft fingers car create most charming little bo
 leros from dainty odds ant
 ends A background of heavy pAt, braided to match the color of thu
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

the complexion. Th0AnaplCsOl siC1n8 up" will straighten the back, strengthen the lungs and greatly improve the f1g- ure and general health. and in conse- quence, the complexion
 ~, o not use salts ofttartar on dark
 hair. It's use will brighten N light hair and make it fluffy.
 When light hair is very oily, lemon juice may be added to the sham poo water. The daily use of the curl ing iron will often cause the hair to become harsh and broken. This is caused by the heat, which takes away the natural oil. See that the iron is only moderately'hot. orabandon its use completely.
 EN HE hands are fully as express
 Ill sive as the face. The most beautiful face will lose it's
 charm if accompanied by hands which are not well groomed and cared for. The beauty of the hands is just as dependent upon the health as is the complexion. A hand cannot be beautiful unless it is useful looking. An undeveloped hand is not beautiful; hand to be beautiful must look as if it could do it's share of the worlds work
 N excellent shampoo is made by AV melting ordinary white soap. - cooling, adding a little alcohol
 say. half cupful to a pint of melted soap-and beating in an egg or two, Rinse the hair first with run ming warm water. Apply some of the shampoo mixture, rinse again, use more soap and egg and give a final rinsing. M any white substance shows on the brush and comb, you may know that your shampoo has not been suc- cessfully mixed.
 NY) URNING or itching sensations
 lN produced after bathing in 4 either warm or cold water,
 lasting from a few minutes to half-hour, are likely to occur in per- sons with naturally irritable skin and especially when there is tend ency to hives. The cause lies not in the bath itself, but in a digestive or nervous disturbance, and should be corrected through restricted diet and plenty of exercise. In these cases the bath should always be quickly taken, and every particle of soap removed, the body dried without friction and dusted freely with a powder consist ing of equal parts of starch and zinc nxidn .
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07
THE USEFUL
 CASSEROLE

M M est forms of cooking utensils
 k=r and one of the most practical
 and convenient.
 i Foods baked in the casserole under go such changes as render them more easily digested, and the improvement in flavor is mark cd. The long, slow baking in the earthenware receptacle ]. conserves all the nourishing constitu- l ents of the food and presents them in 7 the most paiatable form. Leftovers nay be metamorphosed into tempting . .MeFsels by being cooked in this dish, ] which is taken directly from the oven
 to the table,
 i When there is boiled fowl left oy CT 7 the casserole offers a welcome change from the inevitable stew or croquette. The meat should be cut into small ] pieces and mixed with half as much 1 beef or ham or tongue. The stock I from the bones and the leftover gravy
 should be added to the meat in the cas- 1 eerole and covered with bisqult or ! pie crust.
 i Rice makes palatable and nutri- i tious casserole dish. Arrange the rice in butterod casserole, sprinkling each layer with grated cheese and cov- : CT with tomato sauce. Cover with bread ! crumbs. dot with butter and brown in ! the oven. The tomato sauce should be ] highly seasoned to make savory dish. ! Spinach or other greens may also be
 served in the casserole or in ramekins.
 Moisten the beef stock and form hol- i lows in the spinach into which raw j eggs may be dorpped. Sprinkle with l salt and pepper and bake until the
 whites of the eggs are set.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

skirt to be worn with the tiny coat, is decidedly smart Most effective are the black satin or black broadcloth boleros, embroidered in colored silks or inset with lace medallions heavily worked with gold or other metallic threads. These models are really only apologies for coats, for in some in- stances it is really nothing more, than square yoke cut out at the neck.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

lV|Vl IRL possessing delft fingers can vE create most charming little bo-
 leros from dainty odds and
 ends. A background of heavy pAt, braided to match the color of the
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

(W0l LOTION recommended to whit NV en a red nose is made of seven l and a half grains of tannic
 acide and two and a half ounces of lcamphor water After the acid is dissolved the hose is moistened several times day and at night, the liquid drying on.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

EN HE following treatment is ex- lB WI cellent for clearing the com Sy plexion: Rub the face over,
 just before washing 1t, with two teaspoonfuls of flowers of sulphur mixed in half pint of new milk. This mixture should stand little while be- fore it is used.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07
BY MADAME COMBRE.

Wl GREAT many people find lt dlI- IAVl ficult to find a corset that will |ky fit the hips and also fit above
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

the complexion. The.habitsof sitting up" will straighten the bach, strengthen the lungs and greatly improve the f1g- ure and general health. and in conse- auence, the complexion.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

k RITTLE nails are often due to MSG bad health. Nails that are in &za@ clined to brittleness should
 be treated daily with a little pure white petroleum ointment. The petroleum ointment should be well rubbed over and into the nails and also worked into the under part of the nail just above the finger tip.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1916-11-07

fE~l ID you ever stop to think that IHkYI being beautiful is habit, or tG rather the result of following
 Oood hahitsP This is an inn