davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01

laid on that material in lust the same
wav. The second diagram on the
envelope shows the pieces numbered
as they are to be put together and
will be help in the construction.
The pattern gives all the seams, there
fore, you have only to cut around the
outside edge and there are no cal
Cu!ations to make. ....... .g.E
First smooth out the pattern care
fully and identify the different parts
belonging to each separate garment,
that is. the over-bodice, the guimpe or
lining and the skirt. If you wish to
avoid a piecing on the back gore OF
the skirt, it will be we'll to join two
straight widths and lay the edge
marked by the three crosses on the
seam. The present ashions call tor
wide skirts and there are no materials
woven that will avoid the joining OF
either selvaged edges or piecing and
which is better will always depend
upon the special fabric.
After smoothing the pattern out
and pinning the various parts into
place, mark the notches with tailor's
Chalk, do not cut them for if you cut
the notches you will destroy the edges
of the seams. Cut on the outside
edges of the pattern. 1t is then
very simple matter to lift the upper
piece of material and to mark the
notches on the underside, tor the
notches always are found on the edges.
To mark the basting line or any con-
H. 1t porforotinpc nSe
tracing wheel, If the material allows
as this is the quickest and easiest
method. and you mark the two thick.
ness at once If, however. the wheel
will not serve for the special material,
mark all the perforations with tailors
tacks and in any case use the tailors
tacks for the single perforations. 10
make these tacks, take long needle.
full of fine thread and for all lines OF
perforations take a short stitch over
each perforation and leave long loop
between each two. If you must mark
single perforations. take single
stitch but leave long thread. After
YOU have taken all these stitches
through the perforations clip the long
stitches between the perforations, at
llie CeIlClS, tltSil pun VAN
nesscs of the cloth apart and clip the
threads that you find between, then
YOU will have the markings on both
sides of the garment. The process Is
really a much simpler one than it
sounds. and has the great advantage
of avoiding any permanent markings
on the material. If you mark with
chalk or with pencil, there is always
possibility of stain, although for
some materials it is quite possible to
use them, and the method is little
more rapid.
As the first step in the making, take
I'D the darts in the lining fronts, using
the double seam that we have des-
scribed in previous lessons. In this
picture, the blouse is all ofthe Georgette
crepe but if you like the little piece
visible in the square neck OF lace, you
can apply lace over the lining as
directed on the envelope. Join the
shoulder edges. then as the next sten
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01
Pellerines Tafeta.

Fur wraps are not the ~nlv fash
ionable ones however. There are
really wonderful scarfs and little canes
Of ostrich and of marahou, both singly
and in combination with silk that are
fascinating and they are very generally
becoming. There is an effort to in
troduce the 1890 pellerine OF taf1eta to
be worn in combination either with
wool or with linperie gowns. A
charming one that has lust reached
this side of the sea is made Of change
able taffeta. blue and old rose. It
consists Of rippling little cane with
ruf1e at the edge and one midway OF
its depth and it is finished with high
collar with a rolled over portion. A
band Of velvet ribbon is ARRANGED at the
base of the collar which falls at the
front in loops and ends and is held bv
ornamental pins. Taffeta lends itself
to such little wraps with great success.
We see them edged with ruff1es and we
see them treated in a great many
different ways. They are always
pretty and they are always attractive.
and If the color is well chosen, single
one can be utilized with many different
costumes. With suits the scarfs are
of course to be preferred but even in
the early season we may look tor
number of street dresses with little
capes of silk and collarettes Of feathers
make a very attractive finish and give
lust the suggestion Of the wrap that
seems desirable, during the early
season at least.
In spite of the tendency toward the
use Of silk for dressv costumes. fine
sereeis being exploited in great many
new and interesting ways. In the
corlier season there was great deal
Of talk of light colors and undoubtedly
generous amount Of grey will be worn.
but the dark blues hold their own, al
though in the handsomer costumes
the material is relieved by embroidery
or by accessories of one sort or another.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01
Leather Trimming
the Latest Fad

1ECK girdles Of suede leather
M in various fashionable colors,
l y weighted with ends and supplied
with slides of oxodized metal. They
are smart worn with shirt waists and
leather belts.
Vestees and collar and cuff sets OF
suede leather in all prevailing colors.
New and interesting petticoats IN
real farthingale style, that is. with
three ruffles arranged over each hip.
each of these rufaes finished with a
hem in which featherbone is inserted.
Extremely dainty camisoles made
with straight edges and shoulder straps;
The material is lowered taffeta covered
with net and finished with straight net
bands. The flowers take the form OF
garlands of pink roses and are attractive
under the net cover.
Work baskets of cretonne lined with
pongee. The lining is supplied with
pockets and there are handles by means
Of which the baskets can be carried
with ease. The cretonne is draped
at the ends and held by small cushions
of black and colored satin which serve
the double purpose of holding needles
and pins and Of providing ornament.
Sports suits with skirts showing
stripes and coats of plain color the
material for which is the new Khaki
Kool in antique blue and white.
Wide brim sailor hats showing
trimming of birds in realistic feathers
but fiat and silhouetted against the
brims in place Of being stuffed after
the usual manner.
Exceedingly beautiful scarfs for
evening wear of white net showing
conventional patterns in white beads
Of varying sizes.
Wrist bags Of handsome black silk
richly embroidered in steel beads:
They are made in what might be called
over-skirt style. They consist OF the
bags with scalloped over portions. both
Of which are drawn up by strings to
form a frill at the upper edge.
Exceedingly attractive sports suits
made of Khaki Kool. in a wonderful!
variety Of stripes and plain colors. 1t
is light of weight and durable, con-
seuuentlv ideal for summer costumes.
Exouisitely dainty night gowns OF
handkerchief linen, white with seams
piped with pale blue.
Handkerchief lawn, which is a
cotton material with a linen finish,
in delightfully."- dainty summer-like
colors and designs for the modest price
of fifteen cents yard.
Leghorn hats for seaside and
mountain wear with very wide brims
on which Peacock feathers are painted
and crowns of black velvet finished
with bands of Roman ribbon. ..
Close fitting tur bans, in what are
known as fatiron shape of white straw
bound with white satin and trimmed
each with large white bird posed
fiat on the crown. ....
Tailored suits with faring coat!
that terminate little below the hir
line and measure three yards at theil
lower edges.
Exquisitely dainty graduation gowns
of fine white organdie trimmed only
with embroidery worked onto thu
material.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01
Summer Furs Another Whim OF Fashion

A smart model that makes a good
example Of the use Of embroidery Is
made with coat OF the Russian blouse
order embroidered in grey all the way
down the side where the fastening y
made. A suit Of grey gabardine -
lined with rose pink and the edge OF the
lining is allowed to extend trifie be-
low the edge Of the coat to give note
Of color, while the pink reappears in
the collar. The suit is Of course de-
signed for the young girl. but i gives
evidence Of the tendency. The. EN-
broidery used for such materials as
serge and indeed that which is seen on
taffeta suits, is Of the heavy sort worked
with rather coarse thread. 1t Is en-
ceedingly effective. and handsome.
and the simple designs are the pre-
ferred ones Often. circles and simple:
zeometrical forms are used with good
effect. It Is the color that gives the
result and the simple design can De
used successfully if it is we'll handled.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01
Organdie as a Trimming.

Touches Of white and Of lighter
colors are much used on dark costumes
and a real novelty is found in the
application Of organdie to tailored
suits. An attractive one that bears
the stamp Of we'll known name shows
an inserted pocket at each side OF the
front Of the skirt. The openings are
embroidered with white. The loose
little coat is finished with Aaring
collar of organdie and designed to be
worn with rather large iabot OF white
lace. Strins Of white organdie are
basted inside the sleeves. under the
edge Of the coat and under the edge o.
the skirt. They appear approximately
one-eighth Of an inch belowthe edgesot
the garment itself and they are double.
The effect is dainty and not the least
inconeurousasa first thought appears,
although practical women will tee! tnae
the edge on the skirt NAV he omitted.
The organdie is basted into place Tor
easy renewal. A costume that mas
been much admired is made all OF dark
blue but with big collar OF white
Georgette crepe that is embro,dered
with dark blue in simple Chinese
design, the embroidery heing executeu.
for the most part in rather bold darn.
ing of heavy silk. Georeette and
touches of organdie are indeed much
used on these dark costumes and they
certainly brighten them wonderfully
and add to their becomineness. Since
the dark costume is an essentially use
full one which every woman likes TO
own no matter how many OF lighter
sort she may possess the feature IS >
good one. .. ). III
There seems absolutely no limit to
the ingenuity Of the designers and TO
the wav in which fabrics are used but
it is difficult TO find gown that does
not show taffeta or gros de Londres,
in one way or another. They produce
effects that are exceedingly beautiful.
SO beautiful that we may well be glad
of their vogue. At first thought the
combination Of serge with chiffon
appears a little extreme but the great
designers seldom make mistakes OF
such sort and the contrast is an at
tractive and good one.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01

THERE is no more fashionable
irock for the young girl than the
one that is made with sleeveless
scyer-bodice. The design illustrated
Is very attractive one and at the
sane time very simple one Any
nil who can sew straight scam can
I make the dress herself if she will
follow the directions, and there are
{ numberless appropriate materials. In
che picture, plaid taffeta is shown
over ! lining or guimpe OF Georgette
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01

crepe, but you could get this same
color effect with various other ma
terials. You could use plaid hand
kerchief linen or a plaid cotton wolfe.
s. II something simpler were wanted, or
you could use plain material trimming
Il in some way. Whatever, is chosen.
the process Of making will be the same.
On the envelope is given a diagram
I showing the pattern laid out on ma
sterial forty-four inches wide. To
make as shown here it will be neces-
I sary to cut the guimpe or the lining
+ x..-. d;8>.A.t ,,,a+Ar;al hut = will ha
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-01

moment Tor while they
The
- Appropriately the palmer dresses would Dc made
veil oe and the like FOR the
oddly yoke allows
& potuniy for dnbuid
The Press., 1916-10-19
POLAND.

Mrs Clara Baker and Miss Helen Baker left last Wednesday for Boston where they will spend the winter. G. Gale Skinner of Hillsborough returned home Friday after spending some time with Rev. N. B. Cook and Miss Blanche Cook.
 Rev. David Jones of Ellington will preach in the Congregational church Sunday morning in exchange with the pastor, Rev. B. F. Case.
 The district superintendent, Rev. G. G. Scriviner. will hold the second quarterly conference of the Lee Methodist church Oct. 25. At the union meeting of the Y. P. s. O E, held in Ellington Friday evening, our local society obtained the banner for the best average attendance at the local meetings.
 A number from this place attended the fair at Springfield Among them we find MT. and Mrs. William Ayers, MT. and Mrs. A. Esten Clough, MT. and Mrs. Myron G. Sparrow.
 A union meeting of the Y. P. s O. B. of the Congregational church and the Epworth League of the Lee Methodist church was held in the Congregational church Sunday even- ing.
 Rev. James A. Wood of Fall River, Mass. a former pastor in the Lee Methodist church called on some of his old parishioners Saturday. He preached in East Hartford the Sunday following.
 The democratic caucus nominated Monday evening representatives Jesse Dearden and Henry Martin; justices of the peace, Frank w. Gardner, Frank A. Luhrsen. John Johnson, William l.. Ayers, Harry Wood and A. F. Ridder.
 The following nominations were made by tte republican caucus held in the town hall Friday evening: Representatives, Lewis B. Price and Ablal L. Metoalf; justices of the peace, Edwin S, Agard, Charles S. Hurlbut, Loren H Reed, Gilbert P. Babcook, Henry M. Hansen, John I. Rhodes.
 The Home Missionary society of the Lee Methodist church met Friday afternoon with Mrs. Geo. H. Mort )n. The following officers were elected President, Mrs. l.. E. Hall; vice. president, Mrs. L T. Jewett; secretary, Mrs Geo. H. Morton; corresponding secretary, Mrs N B. Cook secretary of literature, Mrs. l.. R. Sparrow; treasurer, Mrs. J. H. Steele
 The record of attendance in the
The Press., 1916-10-19
HOME NEWS.
LOCAL NOTICEs.

Matter under this head 10 cents per line. E-Free demonstration of Velvetina Toilet Speolalties, Friday from 3 to p. m. Facial massage given free. Eaton Drug Go.
 CARD OF THANKS. The seniors of Staf- ford high school wish to thank all the people who were SO generous in giving food and patronizing the s. H. 5. booth at the fair.
 We wish to express our thanks to all nelghbors add friends fn their kindne s and sympathy during our recent bereave- ment. MRs. CHAs. BAssETT AND FAMILY.
 To our neighbors, friends, the mem bers of the Modern Woodmen of Ameri- ca, and also to the spinners, we wish to express our sincere thsnkfulness for the kindness and sympathy extended to us during our recent bereavement.
 MRS. ALoID DAI6LE AND CHILDREN
 Hart schaffner < Marx Clothes, Mod ern Clothing Go.
 For Ladies' and Children's Suits, Coats, Sweaters Dresses, Hats, Hosiery, Underwear. etc, for Fall and Winter see them first at Wasserman's.
 Gold Seal Elastic Rubbers are the best, therefore the cheapest. Modern Clothing Go.
 -Dutchess Trousers 10c button, $l a rip. Modern Clothing Co opp. post office.
The Press., 1916-10-19
STAFFORD SPRINGS.

John Hancock is confined to his home with illness
 A social dance will be given at the Redmen's hall on Saturday evening with music by Woods orchestra.
 The A. O. H will hold dance at St. Edwards hall on Friday evening with music by Lynoh's orchestra.
 MT. and Mrs. Fred wildey and daughter, Harriet, and MT. and Mrs. Alonzo Graves went over the Mo- hawk Trail Saturday and Sunday.
 Mir and Mrs. Chas Moore have moved into their house on Crown street which has been under repair since the fire which they had some time ago.
 Grace Church Notes: Rev. Niles Wright Hermans has accepted the call of the parish and will enter on his rectorship here Wednesday this week. He will have the regular services next Sunday.
 Miss Maud Estella Chapman of Norwich. recently teacher of grade six of the borough schools, was united in marriage to Everett Byron Gallup at Norwich on Wednesday, the 4th. MT. and Mrs. Gallup will reside at Howard. R I.
 Charles Bassette. age 63, who lived on East Main street died Tuesday afternoon from the result of a shot through the mouth which came out near the right ear. He was alone at the time. A revolver which was own- ed by him was found under his body. Whether Bassette killed himself in a fit of insanity or the death was accidental is not known. The funeral services were held in Sr Edwards church Friday morning at 9 clock. MT. Bassette has lived here 20 years, coming here from Canada. He leaves a widow and five children, two sons, John Bassette of this town, Chas Bassette of Chicopee Falls, Mrs. AL fred Donath of Mystic, Mrs. Fred Guyette of Monson and Mrs. William Baldwin of this town.
 A meeting of those contributing to | the Diamond Ledge fund was held at | the First National bank Monday after noon. The amount of the fund at that time was S62l. As there is about $3O still pledged, but not paid in, the total amount will probably be about $65O. This will leave, besides the $550 needed for the purchase of the land, about $ loo available for the improving of the highway to the ledge and for other purposes. The results have been far beyond the expectations of those working for the object, and the unusual success is largely due to the untiring efforts of Rev. J. W. Ballantine, Mrs Artemus Kellogg and the Misses Minnie and Hetta Ellithorpe. At the meeting a com- mittee was appointed consisting of Wm. Park, F. H. Baker and F. G. Sanford to make arrangements for the presentation of the property to the town and with power to make arrangements for the expending of the surplus on improvements needed.
The Press., 1916-10-19
WELLINGTON

There will be a choir rehearsal at the church Saturday evening at 7.3O.
 c. F. Reed, with his gasoline saw is busy making stove wood for MT. Cosgrove and others.
 Mrs. Brown is with friends in New Haven expecting to attend the Pageant at Yale bowl with them Saturday.
 Having received certificate for in- crease of U. S. pension, am able to say the department is very kindly and explicit in it's advise as to details that if followed all complications will be avoided.
 South Wilmington.
 Visit of district deputy. Work on the M. M. degree. MT. and Mrs. Harry Denman spent Sunday with friends in Willimantio. Gardiner H. Hall left for Walling- ford last week Friday to attend school.
 Special communication of Uriel Lodge, F. & A. M. Saturday evening" There will be no nominations for representatives by the democrats this fall in the town of Wilmington. Regular meeting of the W. O. T. U. at the home of the president, Mrs. E. J. Holman, next Saturday after noon at 3 o'clock.
 At the republican caucus, held here last Friday night, George P. Bugbee and F. Romaine Tucker were nomi- mated for representatives. Wm. H. Bracket, F. W. Pratt, Frederic s. Tyler, Charles s Amidon and Eddy H. Burdick were nominated for justices of the peace.
 West Wilmington. Miss Jessie Converse is spending a few days in New London. George Rosebrooks has been spend ing a few days with MT. and Mrs. Charles Korner.
 Miss Marion Hall, teacher at the Riverside school, spent the week end at her home in Marlboro.
 Mrs. Merriok J. Pratt and two daughters. Ethel and Estelle, and MT. Perry of Providence motored to Pleasant View on Sunday.
The Press., 1916-10-19

Neils Jensen of New Haven was with his mother, Mrs. Marie Jensen, for over the fair.
 MT. and Mrs. W. B. Snow of Water town, Mass, were guests at Rev. J. w. Ballantinc's on Columbus day,
The Press., 1916-10-19
SOMERS.

MT. and Mrs. Thurston Cooley of Shelburne Falls are visiting in the home of Dr. A. l.. Hurd.
 Misses Margaretto and Ella Grover have had as recent guests their nephew and his wife, MT. and Mrs. Wm. Chapin of Brooklyn, N. Y.
 The republicans have placed in nomination the following: Represent. atives, R. l.. Keeney and Ernest s. Fuller; justices of the peace, Charles $. Fuller, A. Vaill Smith, Arthur Brainerd and Fred l.. Woods.
The Press., 1916-10-19

Feel languid, weak, run down? Head ache Stomach s'off ?" A good remedy Is Burdock Blood Bitters. Ask your druggist. Price $1.
The Press., 1916-10-19
ASHFORD. WestfOrd

John Kowats will sell his farm and personal property at auction next Wednesday at 10 a. m.
University Missourian. [volume] (Columbia, Mo.) 1908-1916, 1916-07-16
NIL EXTENSION BULLETIN
TAKES UP COUNTRY ROADS

least two feet of filling, and the road
way graded smoothly that a vehicle
NAV pass without shock over the cul-
vert.
Corrugated iron culverts are more
desirable than vitrified-clay pipes. as
they resist shocks of traffic better.
are easier to handle and cost approxi-
mately the same The life of such cul-
verts depends upon the ability of the
metal to resist rust. Piues of nearly
pure iron have given good results.
Concrete is, in most cases, the best
material for use in the construction
of highway culverts When properly
constructed. these culverts last indefi-
nitely. and are usually lower in cost
than those made from other durable
materials. In the construction of con-
crete culverts it is essential that good
materials be used. The concrete
should consist of proper mixture of
portland cement, sand and broken
stone or gravel. The quality of the
concrete depends largely upon the
thoroughness of mixing, and should
be placed in the forms Immediately af-
ter the mixing is done.
University Missourian. [volume] (Columbia, Mo.) 1908-1916, 1916-07-16

The average country road requires
MANY culvert structures, and frequent
ly the cost for maintaining them takes
a large part of the available road
funds. leaving but little for other work.
1t is therefore important that the cul-
vert be built in such a manner so as
to reduce this maintenance cost as
much as possible.
According to bulletin being issued
by the Extension Division of the Uni
versity on Country Roads" the con-
structiOn of cheap perishable culverts
is usually expensive in the long run.
Ordinary wooden culverts are no
longer desirable, as the life of such
culverts is not more than three or
four years, and while in use they are
a continual annoyance and expense.
Vitrified-clay pipe culverts are sat
isfactory. where openings larger than
II to q inches in diameter are
not needed, and the cost is cOmpara-
lively small. Such culverts. however,
cannot safely be used where they are
directly exposed to the shocks of traf-
fic. They should be protected by at
University Missourian. [volume] (Columbia, Mo.) 1908-1916, 1916-07-16
WHITE SHOES IN GREAT DEMAND
Enamel Is Now on Market to Make
Possible the Change.

Will the white shoe survive? This
is the question that a great many
retailers and manufacturers of shoes
are asking The demand for white
shoes, forecasted a year ago by ex-
perienced members of the shoe indus
try, has been unprecedented, and the
popularity of white kid and calf. which
began in the late fall and continued
throughout the winter and spring, is
now augmented by the call for shoes
of white canvas and cloth. The craze
has extended so far that many deal
ers want shoes all white.
Making shoes white is done by means
of an enamel that was put on the mar
ket early in the season. Most of the
retail stores sell a white enamel
which the customer can use to freshen
the white surface of heels and edges.
The white shoe for summer wear,
has grown to be a staple in the sense
that 1t is so well liked it will continue
from year to year
Past actions Of the public prove that
1t demands frequent changes in shoe
fashions nowadays. For that reason
it is evident that no one color or other
one style feature can live very long