Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-09-07


that Paris blouses in their fas- |
cinating freshness and daintiress,
are several times cheaper than II
she were there to buy them. A
dweller in Paris is authority for the
assertion that before the present war,
all prices in the shops frequented by
Americans were marked up" some
times fifty per cent, just after the
Grand Prix and before the influx of
summer tourists. Even at that, the
French prices seemed amazingly lit
tie to the shopper. accustomed to
American prices, based of course on
heavy custom duty and the expense of
bringing Paris goods across.
Dark Colors Prevail.
Dark shades, such as navy, steel
gray. coffee brown and deep, splen
did red. take precedence over lighter
colors in Paris for the fall and winter
blouses. For matinee and restaurant
wear with dressy tailleurs there are
white blouses in lace. georgette and
chiffon, exquisite affairs, so soft and
sheer with their incrustations of lace,
that a blouse might almost be drawn
through a bracelet. There are tailored
linen and silk blouses also. for the
morning, with dainty touches of color
in hemstitched band trimmings and
rows of stitching done with colored
silk. The latter effect is very smart
indeed, since silk stitching is one of
the modish trimmings for fall. From
the Galleries Lafayette comes a blouse
Of sheer white handkerchief linen
with tiniest bands of green linen hem
stitched to collar and cuff and small
green onalith buttons closely placed
up the outer side of the sleeve and
part way down the front. A design
OF interlocking squares is stitched in
green silk on the front of the blouse,
below the bust and this design Is re-
peated on the sleeve, just above the
turned back cuff. Silk stitching on
linen Is an entirely new style-note:
the couturiers invariably stitch with
silk throughout, in costumes of wool,
mohair or silken fabric. to assure the
soft lines. distinction and better quail
ity of workmanship that silk stitching
gives a costume; but this fall, stitch
ing in colored silk Is used as a very
effective trimming, not only on cloth
and silk frocks and wraps but also on
blouses Of thin linen weave. Even
embroidery done by hand or machine
initiates the parallel line effect of silk
stitched trimming. This is observable
in the blouse of white cotton wolfe
embroidered in long scrolls which
show parallel lines in coarse stem
stitch between rows of embroidered
dots The fullness Is added to this
blouse by groups of pin tucks, run
by hand at the shoulders, and should
err seams. armhole seams and other
details are hemstitched. The blouse
is very simple and daintily neat, with
it's closely buttoned front and cuff
and It's collar high about the throat.
The buttons are covered with white
satin.
Buttons, Buttons Everywhere.
Three dozen buttons are none too
many for your fall blouse. Never
we're SO many buttons used-they are
truly a dominant note in autumn
trimming. They are placed in groups
OF two, three or even six, in straight
rows; in fanking lines they march up
and down waist front and sleeve.
They are in all sizes and of almost all
materials, from solid gold and silver
to wooden moulds covered with fabric.
Onalith and bone buttons are specially
fashionable, and many of the fancy
buttons show rings within rings Of
pearl, steel, onyx, amber and jet
Some are as large as demi-tasse
saucers; others are as tiny IS beads
OF the latter sort are the buttons on
a white georgette blouse which shows
rev vest effect, the fronts, lanked
with tiny, satin-covered buttons, d.
Vidins to reveal a fiat vest of white
satin which is cut straight across at
the chest to show the bare neck below
a very tall collar, feather boned at
sides and back. The vest motif is
emphasized by stitching the georgette
blouse to the white satin lining In a
deep oval. the lining being cut out
for two inches below the collar-line
all around. leaving the sheer georgette
transparently over the neck. The
deep satin cuffs have a double line
of buttons up the back and narrow
nare-frills of ungathered georgette
piped at tho edge with satin, fall be-
low the deep satin cuffs. A turnover
OF the piped georgette fits over the
feather-boned collar.
Simpler in style but also very smart
Is a white tailored blouse of the new,
very lustrous soiree silk. with cuffs
strapped in like storm coat and the
high, turnover collar that Is a fea-
tture OF fall waists. This model is