davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1916-07-23

VUTHEN fashion decreed full
w ness as q swing of the mo.
distic pendulum from scant
lines, the designers Immediately
Tevolutlonized dress. They employed
every means to emphasize faring
lines, from gathers and corded shir-
Rings to hoopskirts and haircloth fac
ings, This change in the silhouette
was protestingly accepted at first,
but, when femininityhad accustomed
itself to voluminous skirts and
pinched-in waist lines, the creators
of the prevailing modes allowed
themselves full sway and the result
is seen in the picturesque frocks of
the present
In accordance with the gradual
widening of skirts the top coats as
well as wraps, for more formal wear,
took unto themselves broader pro-
portions. In the beginning the full
lower sections Of these coats we're
attached to semi-ftted bodices or
tightly fitted yokes; now they boldly
flare from the shoulders. They, too,
are distended by corded shirrings,
featherboning and haircloth facings,
since they must be even wider than
the frock worn beneath.
The charming wraps and coats de-
signed for midsummer wear are in
truth works of art Only the love.
Hest of materials are employed in
the making. The more elaborate
coats are fashioned of soft, supple
}atteta, fallle, brocaded silk, cordu-
roy. mirror velvet or of such cloud
like transparencies as GeOrgette
crepe, tulle, chiffon or metal tissue.
Fad for Summer Furs.
Quite the most elegant of the sum-
mer evening wraps was designed by
a famous French couturier. Brocaded
crepe, in rich tones of rose and gray,
is the material used. 1t is a volumin-
GUS garment cut over medieval lines
with long, flowing wing sleeves. The
fulness is confined about the waist
with a girdle formed of cords and
tassels Of blended gold and silver.
The shimmerlng lining is OF silver
gray charmeuse.
OF a decidedly different type is
npOthar ovarIup cOat of hnttlaahin
gray faille. The coat flares from the
shoulders and forms deep ripples
about the hem. 1t is lined with e
pompadour silk, while gray fox fur
forms the turned.down collar and
cuffs.
The vogue for summer furs has
gained such remarkable favor that
the majority of the high-priced wraps
are trimmed with peltry of one va.
riety or another. There are evening
wraps of rich white satin, with bands
of white fox about the cape collar,
and slashes in the sides, through
which the arms are slipped; long,
enveloping capes of radium velvet or
Georgette crepe.llned with char
neuse trimmed with bands Of tailless
srmlne, .moleskin or sealskin; and
Elegant wraps Of chiffon taffeta
Nopped by broad shoulder capes of
hort.haired peltry.
1t would be disappointing, in this
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1916-07-23

TO prevent doornats from tzaying
take large packing needle, some
medlum-sized string, and with this
buttonhole stitch all round the edges.
The stitches should be about one
inch apart and about one inch deep.
This prolongs the life Of a doormaf
for months.
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1916-07-23

tho front, which terminate in en-
broidered arrowheads. The full
sleeves, finished with wide cuffs, are
Joined to the drop shoulders without
fulness. The turned-down collar and
revers are all Of the material.
Porch coats are dainty wraps Of
silk to slip on over your frock when
the evening chill enters the air. Some
are OF three.quarters length while
others are quite short. In fact. there
are Frenchy little corrections which
are a delightful mixture Of shoulder
cape and dolman. If you find that
you cannot afford to buy one Of
these charming wraps make one for
yourself as they are very simple in
construction.
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1916-07-23

ton under the sun. There
is a marked preference
shown the Gobelin blue
and gold weaves. A stun
ming evening wrap of this
material has a skirt por-
ton across the front
shirred at the top over a
cord to form a narrow
frll. The back is full
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1916-07-23
By Suzanne Latour

interesting story of summer wraps,
not to find an old fashioned model
of changeable taffeta. Who could
imagine hoop.skirt era without this
charming material. Those who trans
form the silkworm's thread into won
derful fabrics were far.sighted
enough to prepare for the present
demand for changeable taffeta and 1t
is 10 be had in every color combine
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1916-07-23

length and the sleeves are attached
to the dropped shoulders with a frill
corresponding with the skirt of the
coat. Three rows of corded shirring
finish the neck line and Aared, up
standing collar adds a charming
touch of modishness to this wrap. 1t
is lined throughout with gold colored
chiffon
The daintlest of evening wraps,
fashioned to slip over the dance
frock, is of white Georgette crepe
lined with the same material in rose
color 1t Is lavishly trimmed with
row after row of box.pleated ruch-
ing with Dicot edges. The wide, bell
shaped sleeves have three rows of
ruching to form each cuff and the
wide, cape.lIke collar is trimmed in
the same manner.
But there are other coats quite as
worthy of note as evening wraps,
even though they were designed for
more practical use. l have in mind
the smart motor coats, the dashing
sports coats, the attractive steamer
coats, the comfortable topcoat for
"rough.and.ready" wear and the
porch coat.
The Utility Coat.
The popular motor coat this sea-
son is of gray alpaca. sand.colored
rajah, English homespun, Scotch
tweed, suede cloth or French serge.
In every Instance it is a roomy, well.
tailored, much.pocketed affair with
collhr that buttons high about the
neck. An unusually stunning model
is of natural colored shantung silk
of coarse weave. The roomy
sleevea aye set into wide, straight
armholes, and turned-back, faring
cuffs, caught together with narrow
straps Of the material, are a distin'
gushing feature. The broad collar
buttons high about the throat, then
rolls downward over the shoulders
like a cape. A lining Of black and
white printed silk completes the
smart effect of this coat.
BY this time every one who visits
the smart shops is familiar with the
many phases of the sports coat. The
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
 BRASS BUTTONS
From the New York Tribune.

From the New YOrk Tribune.
 Along with the glamour of war is fast
 vanishing the glory of brass buttons The
 chsnge from the highly ornamental to the protective and strictly utlitarian in the uniforms of fighting men has had
 something to do with it. But so has the
 increasing adoption of the uniform as a badge of peaceful service and it's elabora- ton in countless liveries. In confirma-
 ton of which we wish to quote from a letter recently written to the Naval and
 Military Record" a British publication
 by a correspondent who signs himself "Lieutenant Commander Royal Navy
 He writes
 While on a weeks leave in London I some hotel or railway official to De exact, twice for a hall porter, twice for guard and once as lavatory attend ant being credited with the latter po- sition by none other than second lieu tenant in his majesty's army, who con- sidered me grossly ignorant and impef- tinent when l informed him that couldn't give him the information re- quired. In these circumstances it is hardly surprising that one does not gel the marks of respect one is entitled to. " This is indeed the extinction of TO. marice If generals are to be confused with brakemen and admrals with mes sengers what is to become of war? He
 roes there are a-plenty in every land will. ing and anxious to devour shot and shel and hardtack, but if humble pie of this sort is to be added to their fare we feai for their patriotism. There must Dc something conceived to take the place of brass buttons
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31

The family of Dr. Timothy Dwight,
 who died recently at his home in New
 Haven, has long been identified with
 Yale university, of which Dr. Dwight
 was formerly president. He changed Yale
 college into Yale university, and suc- ceeded in practically doubling the insti-
 tution's endowments. Dr. Dwight was
 born at Norwich, Conn.,, attended the
 Norwich schools and later entered Yale,
 graduating in the class of 1S49. During
 his last year as president of Yale the
 class celebrated it's fiftieth anniversary
 ir Dr. Dwight's home. He held the chair
 of sacred literature in the Yale Theolog-
 elected president of Yale college in 1886.
 He had occupied his new position only six months when he was recognized as
 one of the most popular executives Yale ever had. During the 13 years of his in- cumbency more donations were made to the institution than had been made dur Ing the lS0 years since the lOunOlnS OI the institution in 1701. The building of Osborn hall followed the famous Yale fence" episode. Mrs. Osborn donated $2OO, 900 for memorial to her husband. It was decided to use the site of the fence for the new structure. Graduates and
 undergraduates of Yale drew up a huge petition protesting against the removal of this historic landmark. A meeting of the corporation was held and Dr. Dwight delivered this characteristic ultmatum: "Gentlemen, the corporation did not con- sider it wise to endanger a gift of $2000 900 for the sake of a little sentiment. You know it is an old saying that lightning does not strikeNtwice in the same place. I suppose that the best reason that has ever been given for this phenomenon of
 nature is that given by the small boy, be-
 cause it does not have to-. Good day. gentlemen
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
MT. Harding's Forceful Address

In this time of animating oratory at Tuscaloosa on the occasion of the one hundredth anniversary of the city and the eighty-fifth anniversary of the University of Alabama, no speaker has given the people of this state more food for reflection than w. P. G. Harding, in his address before the Alumni association yesterday.
 While the alumni discourse, as a rule, is expected to be more practical than the baccalaureate homily, it not often happens that so timely speech, or a speech of such profound interest, is heard at the university as that which MT. Harding delivered. He be- gan by saying that he would not dwell upon the past, "rich as it is with les sons of it's trials and triumphs," nor would he "pose as prophet and at- tempt to rend the veil of the distant future." Instead it was his purpose to speak of the present and of that immediate future which lies within our horizon and which we can make what we will" And MT. Harding kept in large and fruitful degree to that promise.
 After alluding briefly to the effect of the European war on the commerce of this country and telling of the prog ress which the government was mak- ing in military preparedness. it was we'll. he said. for us to consider pre-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
THE WOLF OF WALL STREET

out. that makes life uneasy and un- happy.
 The man who commits murder fears the dark. He@is not at peace with him. self. His hell is upon earth. Some times 1t becomes necessary to kill in self-defense. Under such conditions the law condones, but conscience fingers, and it's twinges are most unpleasant. R
 It was not many years ago that a prominent Memphis man, who had com mitted cold -blooded murder and through money and influence escaped his just punishment, died of acute alcohol ism at the city hospital. As the end approached he sat up in bed and pleaded with the shadow of his victim. It was a sad spectacle; one that brought tears to the eyes of those present. All was for gotten. The man did not know his sur- roundings. He saw only the eyes of the man he had murdered.
 No doubt in the dark hours the ".Wolf of Wall Street. will have his moments of regret that he did not employ hi, genius as God intended him to employ it. He will awaken to the fact that clean living is the best living and that crime and crookedness never pay in the end.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31

] paredness from commercial and Tn
 dustrial point of view.
 Great as have been the strides of the south since 1881, the year of the grad. uation of Mir. Harding's class, this section nevertheless has not become highly specialized in the arts and sciences and in manufacturing but IS, as MT. Harding points out, still es- sentially an agricultural region with cotton as it's principal money crop.
 In constructive thinking MT. Hard ing was particularly strong when he discussed the rural credits bill in which the south is vitally interested. This section, he said, had for many years labored under the "curse of ab- sentee landlordism and it has suffered from the evils of the tenant farming system" The rural credits act will Fopen the way for the organization ot national farm loan associations, which will make loans on farm lands on long time, the interest in no case to exceed 6 per cent. The farmer who is oper- ating with limited capital will be af- forded an opportunity of improving his land by ditching, fencing, diversi- f;ao+;a,, ,ul +bo oroo+ioy, of ciloc and other buildings for the promotion of cattle raising. Under the rural credits law "the thrifty tenant farmer will be given an opportunity of becoming his own landlord" MT. Harding said that southern agriculture would re- ceive a wonderful stimulus from the new system. and that many of the young men growing up on the farms whose ambition now is to go to town, twill find it to their advantage to make study of scientific farming and to practice it as life vocation"
 MT. Harding closed his admirable
 
 address with far-visioned discussion of Alabama's water courses-water- ways for navigation and water power for developing electric energy and producing nitrates from the air, for which purpose Muscle Shoals is per- fectly adapted.
 One reason why MT. Harding's ad- dresses are always well received by thoughtful men is because of their "meatiness" and clarity of expression. His university address should. be pub lished in pamphlet form and widely distributed throughout Alabama.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
THE WORLDS GREATEST PORT

From the PlttSburg sun
 According to figures compiled by the
 bureau of foreign and domestic commerce,
 New York, is now the greatest port Sof
 the world in commerce. During the past
 year it showed an aggregate foreign trade
 of the value of s2, ,125,0 ,000,000. which exceed
 ed by $9O0 100000 the commerce of London,
 which is now the second port. The ex-
 ports from New York totaled in value
 s1, ,1s4 0oo, ,OOo, while London's was s696,0Oo- 0OG. This remarkable showing is due, or course in a large measure to world con ditions but with the proper effort put forth to secure and hold foreign trade this enviable position should be main tained. The time is now ripe to gain in stable commerce what we will lose when peace is declared
 The position that New York has won as the greatest commercial port in the
 world is additional reason why the gov ernment should do whatever it can toward making the great wharves easy of access The deep channel to the Brooklyn navy yard should be constructed by all means. Our largest ships should be guaranteed free passage from the high eas to the yard at any stage of the tide The amount of money necessary for this work
 should be appropriated and the work be- gun without needless delay.
 l In connection with the report of the | business done by the various ports. of the world during the past year it is inter- esting to learn that New Orleans is the seventeenth city in the world in impor- tance. Boston is the nineteenth. and Gal weston the twenty-second Other Ameri. can ports are lower in the list. It is ir New York that the majority of people of the United States are interested. A great fleet of merchant vessels clearing from other ports on the Atlantic, where 1 railroad facilities are comparable with New York, would naturally tend to divide
 trade and lessen the importance of the metropolis But there can be only one New York in the world, as much as we are at times inclined to ridicule the pre- | tensions of the folk who hail from thai 1 great city.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31

From the Memphis Commercial-Appeal. HHE story has been told. The last
 chapter has been written. Lamar,
 the Wolf of Wall Street" is now in the federal prison at Atlanta, where he will serve his fiye-year sentence un- less pardoned or paroled.
 The lesson is one that should have it's effect. Crookedness does not pay. Here Is man whose unquestioned ability would have. possibly made great man. He might have looked death calmly in the face knowing that he had lived his life we'll, had lived honestly and applied his talents in a useful way. His end un- der such conditions would have been one of calm serenity. Instead of this he took the crooked path and must pay the pen atty of his misdoingsA.
 After all, honesty is the best policy. The gains of theft do not pay. The right way of living may seem hard for a while, but it is not nearly so hard as the wrong way of living.
 It may seem easy to employ fraudulent methods to gain money. but there is that aftermath of worry, that constant dread of detection, that fear of being foun,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
Gasoline Prices

I'll have to hand it to The Age-Herald for 1t seems that everybody reads it.; that Is everybody who is interested in gasoline" said G. T. Wofford of the Wolf lord Oil company. You know we have entered the gasoline field in Birmingham and carried our announcement in The Sunday Age-Herald that we were pre- pared to furnish a better grade of gaso- line with more power, more miles per gallon, and therefore, it follows that our product will prove more economical in the long run.
 "So, in your Mondays issue you car ried story about our concern selling gasoline at a lower price than anyone else and we have done nothing but an- swer the telephone, people wanting to know just how cheap we were selling it. Of course, 1t was mistake as we are not selling gasoline cheaper than anyone else but we are selling a better grade with more power, which in d sense, is about the same thing"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
"CoNTRoLLERv OR "CoMPTRoLLER'

From the Kansas City Star. To the Star: How does it happen that Kansas City has & "comptroller" instead of a ''controller?'' We have icon. troller'' of the currency, not ''comptrol- Ter" Which is right? J. c. All the verbal shsarps, we believe, are on the side of controller" The word comes from the French, "contre role. " It means a person who keeps counter roll or check on the accounts of others. Webster defines 1t as "one who keep a counter roll to control accounts
 Apparently somebody who wished to be impressive thought controller too sim pie and devised comptroller" There Is a French word, "compter," ito count" which gave the word plausibility. The Ox- ford Dictionary suggests that the "compt" of comptroller arose from confusion with the obsolete "compte," "count." " Vizetelly's Desk Book" remarks that controller derived from the French 'contre role,' and indicating "a person whose office it is to keep counter roll or check in the accounts of others, should not properly be spelled comptroller which word originates in false deriva- tion from 'compter,' to count"
 But "comptroller' sounds rather grand, it has a good start, and it isn't going to be dislodged without a struggle.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
Swiss Military Training

Testifying before the Senate commit tee on military affairs, Dr. Iheodore Christen of Cincinnati, formerly captain in the Swiss citizen army stated that the strength of Swltzer- lands obligatory military training lay in nroviding an adequate defense and increasing individual efficiency with out creating militaristic spirit in the nation.
 Asked what effect this training had on the efficiency of the individual, Dr. Christen said that man gets from the army his civil rating. If he makes a good record in the army his standing in civil life is assured, but if he makes a poor showing he will have an ln- ferior rating as citizen. Naturally, for any young man worth while thls condition spurs him to do his best, so that he may not begin career under a handicap, due to his own shortcom- ings.
 A great many Americans have an idea that compulsory military train sgJhas an injurious effect on busl- ness and industry, but this is not the case in Switzerland. The original training service of sixty-seven days comes in the twentieth year, and after that time a man has for seven years only thirteen days in each year. His career is barely started when he IS called on for his longest service. He is ready for it, as all his arrange ments are made in advance. Some em- ployers pay their men part of their wages while they are doing military duty and all keep their places open.
 A favorite bugaboo of the paciflsts is militarism, although, as matter of fact, hardly any two definitions of the word agree. It is Dr. Christen's opinion that compulsory service does not create a militaristic spirit in Switzerland, but on the other hand curbs it to some extent. The man who has been a soldier learns what war means, or might mean, and the experl- ence has a sobering effect which makes him averse to exposing himself to such hardships and dangers without just cause.
 Whether or not one considers the Swiss plan an ideal one, it has worked admirably in the present upheaval ot Europe. Thanks to their we'll trained army, the Swiss, although small na- tion, have remained at peace and in a security amply safeguarded.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31

the vegetable drugs are something else
 again. About half of our crude drugs have been coming from abroad, even dan delion, jimson weed and burdock, because of the lower cost of collection due to foreign wages. Some of the vegetable drugs, of course, cannot be grown here at all because of climatic conditions, but Indian hemp, dog grass. German chamo- mile, belladonna digitalis, aconite, gen. tian ltcorice anseed, fennel and sage might, it is said, be profitably cultivated here at present prices. Ginseng and gol- den seal have been profltably grown in Pennsylvania, and why not some of these others, particularly as under cultivation they will be of higher potency than those hitherto imported.
 nesota long ago grew experimental crops of drugs, and some of the largest drug firms conduct drug farms. If the war is protracted individuals might, the phar- macists say, find 1t worth while to try drug farming, and as loyal Pennsylva- nians they would like to see Pennsylvania get in on the ground floor. Pennsylva- mia, they say, raises large crops of to- bacco, really drug. Why should not other drugs also be grown here to ad- vantage and profit? Is it one of the un- considered possibilities that the wars far reaching disturbances is to bring home to us?
The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-05-31
LIFE IN OYSTER BAY

From the Cincinnati Times-Star
 Living in Oyster Bay has It's responsi- bilities. Man cannot follow life's dull routine There is more to be done than performing the duties of ones calling and the chores about the place. For in- stance, we notice that the village station agent, druggist and justice of the peace were pressed into service when George Won l.. Meyer led handful of "repub- licans'' up Sagamore Hill on Monday to surprise the Colonel who sat with dic- tated speech awaiting them.
 Joining the delegations that call on the Colonel and helping to i'll "the trophy room'' seem among the per- quisites of Oyster Bays parochial life. The Oyster Bayite does not have to de- pend on seeing the fast train go through or listening to the sounds Tapping of the shores. Everytime he sees a ''bunch' approaching the raised portcullis of vir- tue citadel. all he has to do is to "tag on.' His reward is a view of the Colo ne's gyrations as that ex-dignitary goes through the agonies CT the presidential fever which afflicts him.