Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-07-23

hundred good combinations Tor nVe
bad ones. 1t may be that this rapid
advancement in the manipulation Of
color combinations through sweaters
and hats will put US far on the right
road when the autumn appears.
One thing is true-that we have a
sharply awakened sense of color. and
any one who has studied the American
sense In relation to clothes has con-
f1dence. probably exaggerated IL one
is an American. that we can learn
anything il we put our minds and
shoulders to the task.
The French consider us. without
question, the best-dressed nation in
the world next to France, and this
art of dressing smartly. as opposed to
to learn from France. has been mas
tered in the last fifteen years.
We were the worshipers of the
pretty face, and everything in clothes
contributed to enhancing that one fea-
ture, and in this nation we saw the
apotheoss of the muslin, the rose and
the ruff1e at the neck: but. little by
little. we have laid hold upon the sig
| nificance of the entire silhouette. the
pose of the hat and the Importance
of well chosen details.
1t is a big lesson, one that France
probably had to learn for herself CEN
turtles ago, but in our intelligent out
reaching toward the fundamentals of
this subject. and the ardent way in
which we have become disciples of
Paris. the supreme apostle of dress.
we have far outdistanced every other
nation in the world in the knowledge
Of clothes and their relation to women.
When it is a free-for-all race in
fashions, as it is this month, and when
the American continent is showered
with rioting colors that can be as
that we should think of at this mo-
ment is how to swim among these
colors without getting wrecked
If you are in doubt about your color
sense there are certain things that you
should dismiss without consideration.
and you will have to be buckled up
against temptation. because these GER
tain things confront you on every
side.
Orange, for instance: cIashing com
binations of black and white; all the
ranges of tone in purple; anything in
green that is deeper than cucumbers
and young apples; all the tones of red
and certain blues that are mixed with
gray, with purple or mauve. Possibly
blue is the supreme stumbling point
Of women. 1t looks harmless in all
its gamut Of shades, vet it is as dan
gerous as a third rail.
There are few women who can come
out in the sunshine wearing a mixture
| of these colors. One need not run
from all of them because they are
dangerous. for there are minor COM
binations of black and white. and es-
pecially green and white that are ad-
r in mid NJ
should feel ashamed that she cannot
employ the skill of an artist in
choosing colorS for her costumery She
should remember that she can look her
best in subdued eolors.- provided there
is skill in the making and wearing.
| She should not grieve that she cannot
| turn from dark blue serge to mod
| ern frock of purple and red; but she
has cause for grievance if she is not
able to make blue serge look con-
splcuously smart in any gathering.
those who rarely change the color of
their gowns, but who know how to
make each accessory size up to its full
est value and impart significance to
the whole.
against colors, or, lastly. it may be
common sense that has turned wornen's
thoughts toward white costumes Be
the reason what 1t may, the pleasure
Bile fact is that one sees at all the
resorts hats, shoes, gowns and para
soils in white.
There is tendency to wear black
velvet slippers with enormous cut sill
yer or steel buckles with the costume,
and possibly to add a narrow fange
of black tulle or chiffon to the brim
Of the hat.
Again, white colonial pumps will be
worn with onyx colonial buckles, in
stead of white kid ones, and on the
"a Tod
feathery tendrils of black peacock
feathers.
White taffeta is not a preferred fab
ric for these frocks. Satin has come
back into the arena and pushed its
rival out of the ring.
In combination with satin is Georg-
cite crepe, in a quality so fine that it
resembles chiffon cloth. With it's
slightly pebbly surface, which is the
leading characteristic of this make of
crepe, 1t is preferred by many women
to its smoother and more expensive
weave.
We have turned in clothes as in art,
to the old Chinese colorings. and the
French designers have led us to use
bit of Chinese embroidery in lieu of
a solid color, where color is required.
A bit of brocade at the waist line, a
bow of it on the hat. "a hem of it on
the skirt. is strongly commended by
the highest authorities.
The odd, apparently vague in out
line Chinese designs are copied in silk
and in beaded embroidery on ceremoni-
Gus frocks, and even pieces of jet are
used on tulle hats. cut to resemble
gentle dragons.
There is a new country hat worn
| with muslin frocks which is definitely