The sun., 1916-11-26

| AHo pettlcobt OF metalilo IAC0 OF OF
metal embroidered tulle IL used with
all types Of evening frocks. and flow
Ing sleeves, or short, straight sleeves
Of these same metallic laoes and
tulles are ordinarily used II there arc
any sleeves at all. The pulled and
fuller sleeves of early season expert
ment seem to have been abandoned.
For grande toilette all save the
debutantes give first place to the
decolletage low and square in front
and either low and square in the back
\ or lower still and v shaped in the
back. Tttre are. Of course. many ex-
ceptions to this ruling-bodices cut
low and round. oval. falling of the
shoulder. v shaped-but the square
cut front Il the dccolletage Of the mo.
ment.
Never were such beautiful brocades
worn by New York ONE as are
being worn now. For that matter.
since old Venetian days have
the manufacturers turned out in
quantity such sumptuous and lovely
metallic brocades. and. whether the
materials have brought about the
modes OF the modes have brought
about the materials, the evening
frocks Of the season lend themselves
admirably to the use Of these bro
cades.
One type of frock In particular suits
these gorgeous stuffs. the frock with
under robe or pett!coat and bodice OF
lace or embroidered tulle over which
unbroken lengths Of silk are cleverly
draped. As has been said before. this
Is q difficult theme to handle success.
fully. especially when. as IL often the
case. the brocade Is toe rich with gold
or silver TO be very supple: but some
dressmakers achieve genuine triumphs
In this field. and tho brocades used are
} objects OF art.
As for cloth OF gold. cloth Of silver,
metallic tissues. metallic laces. they
are used in %profusion. and. oddly
enough. often enter into very demure
effects. their glow and simmer cloud
lily yelled or pceping out discreetly
here and there.
Tho average evening frock starts
with a foundation Of silver or gold
even II II II going to end In the debu-
tante's white chiffon. and where all
metal lace Is too pronounced there ere
fine white laces. run with silver or
gold thread as fine. that look as
ephemeral and fairylike as frost.
Flounces or full! petticoats OF lace
billow on the sides Of many evening
frock skirts that are quite fiat in front
and back; and. while bouffant hip dra-
perles no longer have the vogue they
had last season. tho general tendency
10 10 give the silhouette q very wide
aspect from front or back view. but to
make II look thin or narrow when
viewed from the side. Tho unSuided
waist and the flaming straight sleeves
Of many frocks help to ~accentuate this
effect.
However. there are still numerous
evening frocks that show we'll defined
waist curves. usually associated with
very full skirts or tunics flaring
widely at he sides over narrower pet
ticoats. These often have q fiat panel
or under petticoat down the front of
the skirt instead Of continuing their
fiaring fulness all around. and one fire.
quently sees a bodice and fairly mar
row skirt OF brocade with very full
tulle yelling tho skirt around sides
and back and used in the fiaring
sleeves. A beautiful light blue and
silver brocade made up after this FASH
ion with violet tulle and touches OF
deeper violet velvet was very attrac-
tive.
Paillettes cannot be overlooked in
any discussion Of evening frocks this
winter. They are enormously used,
often with results reminiscent Of stage
chorus and spangled stage adventur-
esses; but skilfully and discreetly
handled they are an excellent trim
ming, particularly adapted to the
evening frock Of sombre color. Some
very likablc frocks In dark blue. black.
brown and the wine reds are chiefly
Of tulle and paillettes and opalescent
and light hued paillettes are used with
charming effect upon lighter colors.