The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-30
q, ELEANOR HoYr BRAINERD,

80 yOMEN have chung to their furs
w this spring--with good and
w sufficient reason. The mode
makers assure us too that
summer furs will lie, as they we're last
year, a summer fad, and in proof Of
their prophecy show new collars and
roles Of ermine. white fox. mole and
o,her furs designed especially for the
new season.
Jenny's fiat deep collar Of short
haired fur is brought out with new
touches and will consort more amicably
with our midsummer weather than
s,o,es and collars that rise high against
the throat. Other fiat wide collars
akin to this one. but differing in line.
arc offered. and the straight scarf OF
fur IL recommended; but where one
woman will wear summer furs a thou
sand will wear a neckpiece Of taffeta or
tule.
Ostrich and marabout are In evil
Aence too. as they always are when
summer neck rufus and boas and
sarfs are shown: but 1t Is with tulle
/ and ,affeta that the designers Of such
novelties have chiefly worked, and they
have achieved astonishing variety.
There Il a very considerable degree OF
charm az we'll as variety In the show
Ing.
The models range from small close
collars to deep picturesque capes. but
the chances are that the simpler and
less eccentric things will be the most
popular, as they are the prettiest. Big.
81 .~s ,-l.~ e,nN~. - H,,1t~ Nlcl ,.,tsA
ribbon and given q touch Of gay color
By q little flower or nosegay tucked
somewhere among the airy folds are
provided in black and the dark colors
and in all Of the delicate and bright
hues.
Often these tulle ruches are made in
Two tones. one yelling the other. Dark
blue tulle IL p0lted outside with beige
or peach. dark brown IL associated with
soft rose, cerise goes with deep purple.
clear cool sea green overlies white.
In the light colored ruches for sum-
mer evening or afternoon use little
flowers are often set at intervals all
around the collar. but the black or
dark colored model for stree wear
usually confines itself to the one nose
gay already mentioned.
Narrow picot edge ribbon IL some
times tightly ruched and runs around
the centre Of the tul.c ruche. tying In
big loops and long ends, at the front.
The collar does not always surround
the entire throat. or at least the big
ruched part OF II Toes not. For the
to whom a big fun ruching
under the chin is unbecoming there
are models in which the large full
ruChe extends across the back only,
while a close collar Of ribbon. or per-
haps only ribbon ties. hold this ruche
In its place.
Fanciful models innumerable are
siied to the more practical and veal
able ones. a bic ruche Of coral tulle,
for instance. has a cluster of purple
ostrich tips set among the fiutiinoss
al the back.
The best looking OF the all taffeta
~ hes Is. possibly, the one formed OF
two shirred frills OF taffeta. one frill
Z little wider than the other, both very
full and each cut at both the upper
and the lower edge. in deep. rather
slender points, picot edged. The petal.
Ike effect is lighter and more grace
1dl IMAM tNe oTulIldIS StTdiSut tust tt
ihaliow scallop. This same ruche l.
made with only the foundation ruche
o. taffeta and two inner ones OF tulle
matching the taffeta in color. but the
effect is hardly so good as that secured
By using only taffeta.
The cape collars OF tafeta are new
and some Of them are very piauant
though they commend themselves for
wear over thin summer frocks rather
than Tor other purposes. Designers
have experimental with this cape
IDEA In taffeta. chiffon. lace and tulle,
and It is hard to tell where cape collars
end and shoulder capes begin.
A softly draped cape Of supple
bright green tafYeta. edged with many
tiny picot edged frills and turned over
a. the top to form a collar, also Dor
tered with numerous frills, knots III
FILLED. pointed ends at front. In fchu
fashion. A plain. Puritanical cape OF
royal blue taffeta Ats smoothly owe
shoulders and chest. crosses In from,
md Is drawn hack under the arms tc