Evening star., 1916-12-10

made Of chiffon or panne velvet and
always in a gorgeous color. The bcits
which is placed at the normal waise
line. is an extravaxant afrair OF col.
ored crystal or bullion. or any other
bit of decoration that recalls the art
Of other days
There has been a dipping into old
Aztec designs for clothes worn In the
street and In the house. but the Ma
poleonic era is also productive OF much
that il desired.
One such blouse gives a good idea of
what all the others are. II is OF brill
liant green chiffon, draped over thin
yellow satin. and hangs In loose folds
to the hips, with the immense cape col-
lar that is low In front and has Its
edges embroidered in black. II Is
fastened in front with square cut Jet
buttons. and the belt is made OF four
loose strands of jet beads. held in place
by unusually large black and white
Napoleonic canoes. This is worn with
a black velvet skirt. II a woman wants
to adopt it for the house. IL will bring
any black skirt into the highlight OF
smartness.
The woman who is more interested
in her street clothes than those for her
house. though this is the wrong idea
to take of apparel. will find informa-
tion possibly not to her liking in the
last story from Paris that Paquins
along with many other great designs
ers. is lengthening skirts to the ankles
and cutting them only two yards wide
The experts insisted that this was the
new fashion as early as september
but the Americans have gone on wear.
Ing full, short skirts. except the rev
who realized that they were not be-
| coming and who insisted upon the mar
| row one that came below the shoetops.
alrt
short ones. and Paduin is making them
| both narrow and long The grain or
| comfort in this change is that nothing
| is uglier than full skirt for the street
| that reaches to the ankles. If IL grown
| longer, let us be thankful that 1t grows
narrower. !.
All the straws show the tendency
! toward 1912 and 1880 in street clothess
| women. One Of the smartest new blue
| cheviots made for the south has coat
| that looks like daguerreotype, with
| its full peplum, Its immense pocketa,
F., revers and shawl collar that rises to.
| the hair in back. The sleeves OF thia
| coat are quite small, but the immense
| cuff makes up for II.
| The introduction of dull gold and sil-
yer buttons. fat and large. on these,
early nineteenth century street cos.
| tunes make the resemblance to the
| mems apparel of other days even more
| significant. 1t is now only step to
| the pleated skirt, with the starcfeds
ruffied front. the high cambria collar
! that stands out from under the chin
and the necktie of polka dot stlk
| wrapped twice around the neck and
| finished with flowing ends in front.
| No one knows vet whether the short
| or the three-quarter coat will be in-
| sisted upon for the height of the win.
| ter season. Each has its adherentsr
| and it is to be hoped that each set OF
| women will follow out the line that
suits the figure best The introdnc-
| tion of the huge pocket fiat across the:
| hip is not new, but France seems-to,
| insist upon il in the ultra-smart tall,
ored suits she is making for tho
70, icra 1t is probably her swan song
about hip drapery. This immense zap.
| lands itself as background to the ar
| rangement of the huge buttons Ind.
tabs of velvet ribbon. and It is very.
difficult indeed to make the French give
, themselves UP to the utterly plain suit,
| which they think lacks all traces OF
femininity. and for this reason. ali
| touches of necessary coQuetry.