The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-03-26
Now That There Are Rumors Of Grin.
oline the Crispy Materials Are
Again in High Favor

| not wear the evening frocks we'll. 10
n.uch the worse for the matrons.
Youth. as usual. Is served. The rest of
us make shift to he as youthful as we
can.
Skirts are a trihe longer. so the re-
port runs. The trifie IL. in many cases.
n trihinE matter indeed. Still. II Is
there. in the authoritative models; and
it In certainly IA move In the right
direction. Setting aside the scruples
In point Of good taste. the exaggerated
shortness Of the skirts vas becoming
an offence against harmony Of line
and extremists need checking; 80 II
is to be hoped that the French verdict
| will make itself felt.
The hip drapery that achieved such
popularity In the winter In still with
us, though not inevitable. II one pre-
fers "a more normal hip line. there are
models that will supply II: and even
on the extremely bouffant skirts the
point OF greatest width IL not always
at the same place.
Many skirts have "A sharp outward
| flare Immediately below the girdle or
wais; line and where. as Is often the
case. the silk Is not crisp enough to
maintain this sharp flare naide the
designers add a lining OF supple. very
light weight hair cloth. or INTRODUCES
narrow horsehair lace or other sup
port.
Large quantities Of these various
horsehair s%tiffenings are used this
spring: but they are very cleverly
: handled and the modish skirts have
not yet N unyielding. stubborn suS-
gestiOn Of the old time h~oopskirt. The
skirts are held out more or less. but
they are not stlfty held out. They
HI. We an %audacious yet yielding air.
They can be packed into small spaces.
yet they expand gayly when they have
the chance and. as every woman has
found to her sorrow. they do interfere
sadly with tucklng an entire week end
outfit into one suitcase. AS was pos
sibie but u short time ago.
Many OF the tafeta evening frocks
have skirts quite untrimmed. unless
their elaborate drapery can be counted
as trimming. and even the bodice may
ne practically untrimmed aside from
some effective decolletaEe finish.
Color and line are entrusted with the
effectiveness: and II an artist does the
work. the confidence often il justified.
The colors in the evening silks are
lovely-ra;ner frank. youthful shades.
most Of them. hut not crude. true
eighteenth century p.Dks and blues
and yellows and green's and lavenders
with u bloom on them and. occasion
ally. something moro vivid, such as
brilliant cherry or emerald ar range
or blues. and always the practical ana
sniar black with its relieving CLEAN
If bright Jet or silver or gold, the
white and blu X or black and white
combinations. and tho whites.
Flow cred silks. preferably in large
designs. and striped silks play import
II parts among evening materials
and the metallic brocadcs are even
hundsomer than they have been.
There are new metallic nets aitd It's
sues, and cloths. too. are in demand.
and one Of these which the manufac-
turer calls scintlline makes up very
effectively in some Of It's colorings.
The texture is that OF a coarse file:
mesh net on grenadine in metallic
color and, though II has a slight stiff
ness. 1t lends itself very effectively to
extremely full skirt folds which CLEAN
WIN Color IN tnelT SndOONS ana Win
metallic lustre in their high lights.
The orchid and silver scintilline !s par
ticularly attractive and the flame is
! good.
| Drops .. silver cloth are in many OF
the new imported models and over
these are hung nets. laces. chiff"ns.
s!l"er trimmed. or silver nets in COM
oina,ion with other stuffs.
The Klein model pictured here, for
example. has a drop Of supple silver
cloth n over this Is a very full silye,
net bordered in tiny deep pink roses
and iounced in watermelon pink tat
fe;a. To accent there are shoulder
bands of bright jet and rhinestone.
Silver continues to be lux more
freely used than gold: but once in a
while gold has It's turn. as in a Dire
coll model Of brilliant green tafeta
and black tulle whose deeply sca.lopeJ
taffeta skirt falls over a voluminous
plated founce Of black tuile and has