davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10
Directions for it's Making

The bodice and tunic really make
the feature of the costume. The en-
vclope that accompanies them is ex-
ceedingly clear. The neck line given
in the pattern is the round one 50 that
there will be no change to be made.
At the under-arm edges if the fronts Of
the bodice are circles. Fold on the
double smaller circles and lap to the
larger ones, to form upward turning
plaits. As the next step, finish all the
edges of the BODICE In this case,
turn the seam up on the right side and
sew it into place lightly with running
stitch. Then sew the velvet ribbon
over it. Lap the back over the front
as directed and attach the right side
to position, taking the stitches from
the underside, through the double edge
of the material but not through the
ribbon. Lap the left side and haste
into place. Then mark clearly just
where the snap fasteners must be
placed to attach it firmly and ac-
curately. Remove your hastings and
sew the fasteners. To make the tunic
on the lengthwise fold, it will be
necessary to join the selvaged edges of
the material, to get the required length.
Then close the back seam and press it.
To get the finish illustrated, turn the
lower edge under first one-half inch
then again for two inches to obtain the
hem you have allowed and sew it
lightly into place. Then arrange the
first row of velvet over the sewing and
the ether rows of velvet as illustrated.
Sew to position at the upper edges
only. Turn the seam on the upper
edge over on the right side between the
circles. slipping the material as ne.
cessary to make smooth turn. Then
sew the velvet ribbon over the edge.
Arrange the tunic under the edge of the
bodice, allowing the bodice to extend
over to exactly the width of the seam.
and take care that the points come
exactly at the circles. Sew it into
place as directed for the under-arm
edge, and all the work of making will
be done. Adjust the gown on the
wearer and mark the neck line Of the
bodice on the guimpe, then it will be
easy to mark again one and one-half
inches above that line and to finish
with picot, or to cut off a little below
the line and to sew lace to it, but the
lace can not be made to give the per-
fectly smooth finish.
As illustrated and as discussed here,
the costume is adapted to formal after
noon occasions, but it can be varied in
many ways, and it can be made from a
variety of materials. By emitting the
guimpe and finishing the sleeve edges
with ruffles of lace or Georgette crepe,
the gown would become converted to
evening use.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10
Worn for Mid Summer

only trimming is little band OF con-
ventionalized flowers around the crown
which is embroidered with tiny beads
onto the material itself The beads
are very beautiful in color and they
really make singularly striking effects.
Much Of the bead embroidery is simple
to do, in fact none of it is really ex-
acting for even If the pattern is in
tricate, it is necessary only to follow
the design. The actual work consists
merely in sewing the beads where they
belong.
What we know as the sports but
which are really the outdoor costumes
are bringing about some extremely
interesting developments. One Of the
latest fancies is combining the MILDLY
with the cape. An exceedingly smart
model shows blouse of the regulation
sort but with deep cape that is al
most too big to be called cape collar
that rolls away from the neck and
ripples over the shoulders in a most
fascinating way
Hats for midsummer are of various
materials, but some Of the smartest
and best liked are of flexible hair braid
woven to form a plaid Of delicate pastel
colors that is exceedingly attractive
for warm weather wear. The hats
take the simple regulation form Of the
wide brimmed sailor and the accepted
trimming consists Of band of MORE
ribbon finished with fat tailored bow
without ends
Bathing suits have been discussed
again and again for many of them are
so extreme as scarcely to avoid mention
but as might have been forseen, the
costumes selected by women of the
best taste, while they show many Of
the newest features, are by no means
bizarre or by no means extreme. An
extremely handsome one seen at
nearby beach is Of striped salt water
satin, black and soldiers blue, and the
suit is made in what might be called
the harem or Turkish style with very
wide full boomers that are Joined to
The blouse. no skirt being worn in conf
bination. There is girdle as finish
and the shoes are high and laced Of
black satin bound with blue. The
stockings are black silk and the hat is
all blue 1t is very handsome cos
tune. a picturesque costume. smart
costume and at the same time it is
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10
Wide Brimmed Hats Being \

A NY discussion of the weather
~ however great the temptation,
is apt to be trite, but the con-
ditions this season are so extremely
unusual that one may be forgiven 1t
has been so cold and so lacking in
summer-like conditions that the sum
mer fashions really have been held
somewhat in allegiance However,
lovely the organdie, net and filmy
costumes may be they are not inviting
when the weather is cold and damp
and here in New York, we have had
cold and dampness until we are bit
weary. There are always. however
certain indications to be cleaned and
certain novelties to be seen and Of
course the month of weddings will al
ways bring beautiful costumes and
certain important events, while the
trousseau are apt to be suggestive.
1t is evident that the Russian blouse
is to be favorite throughout the sea-
son and a hint that may be CLEANED
from advance information that comes
from important designers. gives evil
dence of still further favor. 1t is
shown in net and ii is shown in other
tIllll lIldtcIldlS DIS we'll DIS III the ItdNlcI
ones. A very dainty and charming
one that makes part OF a trousseau is
of sheer white organdie to be worn
over skirt of taffeta. 1t is wonder
fully dainty garment and really
fascinating garment for organdie is one
OF the lovliest fabrics that ever was
woven The blouses are called Russian
and they are to a certain extent, for
they are belted and the blouse and
skirt portions are cut in one but all
sorts OF liberties are taken with the
neck, the V-shaped necks, the round
necks. the rolling collars and other
finishes that certainly are not Russian.
are to be net. The organdie blouse in
question is finished with a big rolling
collar suggestive of the cape idea. To
further enhance its daintiness. the edges
are all finished with picot. there is no
trimming sewed on.
Every variation of the cape Is maxi
ing itself manifest We have cape
wraps of all sorts and all kinds and
cape collars in almost limitless variety.
The summer furs have really developed
into great many summer wraps that
are fur trimmed and there are very
handsome and at the same time service
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10

able capes shown OF chiffon cloth with
bands Of fur. They are bit more
comfortable than the entire fur wrap
unless one is motoring, and while the
motor unquestionably is very big
and influence in determining the STYLES
has to a great extent. entirely altered
as yet and there are women who must
provide costumes without consider
alton Of the car Capes OF the thin or
materials fur trimmed and the dainty
creations Of one fabric and another are
meeting with very general favor and
ready acceptance
Although it is warm weather or
supposed to be, the tendency toward
the high neck is apparent. A very
new bodice garniture consists OF very
deep cape collar Of white organdie
that is cut in nine cores to form big
godets over the shoulders. The upper
edge of each gore forms scalloD and
in each gore is laid single plat at the
base OF the scallop, and there it is
attached to neck band of black velvet
ribbon by black velvet button. The
ribbon also makes a tie at the front
and there is a very full ruche Of the
organdie with bound edges that COM
pletes the upper edge Of the band, 1t
is a charming creation and a very
generally becoming creation. but in
spite OF the very thin material, the
choker Of velvet might not be COM
Portable on an extremely warm day.
Aneck garniture that will perhaps meet
moro ready acceptance in the warm
weather allows Of an open neck at the
front It consists of little chemisette
with V-shaped neck that is finished
with draped collar of net that is ex.
tended to form very wide scarf and
which is finished with a once over
knot The edges of the collar and
scarf arc finished with black satin rat
tine braid and bands Of the braid hold
the fullness in place. 1t is very
dainty accessory and thoroughly
comfortable one tor immediate wear.
Beads are almost ubiquitous. Bead
embroidery is used in every possible
way. 1t not alone trims gowns and
separate blouses. it also has appeared
en- hats A new one for country wear
takes the almost universal shape Of
round crown and wide brim sailor and
is covered with crepe de chine The
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10

costume that bespeaks the good taste
and the refinement OF the wearer.
The boomers are 80 wide that they
require no skirt and at the same time
they allow perfect freedom of move
ment, Handsome suits that at the
same time give evidence to the fancy
for bright color are made of black
satin, the edges cut in big scallops and
bound with rose or with blue or with
green as the case may be. Shoes never
have been so handsome. They follow
the general trend and are high and
laced at the front, while they are far
more shapely than one would expect at
first thought Altogether the cos
tunes make most attractive showing
while at the same time they allow not
alone the dip into the sea but tussel
with old Neptune, if one is minded to
enjoy such treat. Since sitting on
the beach is part of the enjoyment OF
the bathing hour, wraps and hats and
parasols are shown. A great many Of
the latest are made of rubberized silk
and are exceedingly handsome and at
the same time they serve their purpose
well. Hats are apt to be of the same
material and sometimes the parasols.
but in the case OF the handsomest out
fits, the fact that the material is rubber
lied is discoverable only upon close
observation, it is not apparent at
glance. The Khaki Kool that has
been put to so many uses is employed
for bathing suits, too, and natural
color with bands of red, makes a very
handsome effect. The Russian blouse
with breaches that are suggestive of
the riding trousers beneath is favorite
model. These trousers or breeches are
buttoned closely about the knee and
below but are generously full above.
They are handsome and attractive in
effect, more shapely than the regulation
boomers while they serve the same
purpose and with even better results.
A new outing skirt that has recently
been received from Martial and Ar
mand. 1t is of a serviceable Scotch
cheviot comfortably full, not exagger-
atedly so, with yoke. Below the.
yoke, the front and back portions are
turned over in pointed revers to form
pockets and they are piped with silk in
a bright color. There is a wide belt
or girdle of the material which is cut
in one with the yoke. s.- ..5.. ~"
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10

general directions for the making. The
guimps is shown on all over lace thirty
six inches wide and the skirt here is
made of houncing, therefore, it must
be laid on the crosswise fold whereas
in the diagram it is shown on the length
wise fold, but the directions for making
will remain. Since it is laid on the
crosswise fold there will be no piecing
required. The guimpe, bodice and
tunic are laid on material thirty-six
inches wide, which is the accepted
width for taffeta today
AS the first step we will make the
guimpe. Smooth the pattern out. lay
it on the material as it is shown, then
pin carefully into place and cut around
the outside edges. Mark the basting
line and all the markings with the
tailors, tacks that have been described
so often. There is no marking in the
pattern for neck line as low as this,
therefore, leave the guimpe as it is and
wait until the bodice is cut out to get
the line exactly as you want it. Close
the shoulder and under-arm seams,
using the double seams, then turn the
right back edge under on the circles
and turn the edge under again on the
cam, and hem. Finish the left for the
nnderlap, that is, underface to the
depth of the circles with a straight
strip of material Finish the lower
edges Of the sleeves, either by having
them hemstitched by machine then
cutting to get the picot edge or by
sewing lace to them. Cut the cuffs.
which are foundations only, from plain
net and arrange the sleeves over them.
Close the seams and place in the arm
holes as directed. For this use, gather
the blouse at the lower edge and join
to the peplum for the peplum will
hold it perfectly in place and is far
better than the casing with elastic.
The skirt to be worn under this
tunic should be finished at the high
waist line but without the friil, there
fore, you will cut it off one-half inch
above the first line of circles. Sew up
the back seam using the double seam
below the notches. Then undertake
the right side of the opening, finish the
left with an extension lap, that is, cut
one strip of material one inch in width
and another two inches in width and
the length of the placket. UNDERTAKE.
with the narrow strip and join one
long edge of the longer strip to the left
side of the opening, fold at center and
hem the remaining edge into place over
the scam. Lap the undertaking over
the extension lap and stitch together
firmly across the lower edge Gather
the skirt at the upper edge Adjust
the betting over the figure and sew the
fastenings into place. Be sure that
it fits exactly, then arrange the skirt
over it and undertake the upper edge.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10
Simple Fr0ck for a Miss

THERE is no more
suitable morning
costume to be Of
fered for the young girl
than this one. 1t is
very simple but at the
same time it is smart
and it can be copied in
linen or in cotton. or
in one Of the silks that
are so generally used.
In the picture. however.
it is made Of linen and
the little chemisette,
collar and cuffs are of
Georgette crepe, for
Ceorgette crepe is used
in combination with
linen as we'll as with
silk, it being one Of the
most useful materials
that ever was offered.
The frock has the es-
sential simplicity Of the
sports costume and can
be utilized for such pur-
pose, but also is per-
fectly suitable for
general out-of-town
morning wear, and the
costume that can fill
that need always is an
important one. Pongee
is one of the best liked
materials for uses of the
sort and the pongees
this season are es-
pecially beautiful and
attractive They can
be found in the natural
color and in dyed
shades and both are
fashionable. Natural
colored pongee would
be pretty with the
chemisette. collar and
cuffs Of blue or pale
green, or one could use
a striped pongee for the
skirt and trimming
with plain pongee for
the blouse. There are
various ways in which
the model can be
and there are
1umberless variations
hat can be made.
The present is es-
;entially a season Of
materials. Many de-
igns can be converted
o one use or another
imply by utilizing a
|iferent material and
making certain very
light changes.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-08-10
\ Handsome Costume and

'HlS is one Of the smartest COS
tunes for the dinner, for infor-
nal evening wear or for the after
noon dance that could be offered, at
che same time it is one OF the simplest
80 make. The bodice and tunic are
made Of white taffeta banded with
slack velvet ribbon, and the guilnpe
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09

John Redmond, speaking to his Water
ford constituency, declared home rule is
safe If Ireland STAYS sane. Consumption in
Ireland would he the most fatal thing that
could happen. No permanent exclusion OF
any part of Ireland from home rule can
be tolerated
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09
CHELSEA HOTEL BURNS
yo~s of $4,000 Whom Orange County
House and Livery Arc Destroyed
stable slightly Damaged.

Chelsea, Nov. 1.-The Orange County
Hotel and the hotel livery connected with
1t were burned to the ground early this
morning, and the livery table of William
Davis, located eight feet away. was saved
only after hard work by the Chelsea fire
department assisted by many volunteers.
The total loss is estimated at Sl2,0n0, with
an insurance of 5000 There was no loss
of life and all the livestock was taken out
of the barns.
The fire started in the third story of the
hotel, being discovered by Homer Kings
bury, the Fershre stage driver, who
roomed in the building. He was awakened
by the cracking of flames and he quickly
spread the alarm throughout the building,
all of the occupants being able to leave
the building in ample time. II the mean
while the flames had been discovered from
the outside and o. D, Tracy of the fire de-
partments gave the alarm to the fire de-
p3rtment and tho villagers.
Vt is supposed that the fire was caused
by defective wiring. Flames were first seen
In corner Of the third story Of the build
ing. The prompt awakening Of Mr. Kings
bury probably averted loss of life
The hotel and livery barn were owned
by Il. d. Barnes and the livery stable was
leased by Ben A. Goodrich. The latter
lost a quantity Of hay in the barn. Mr.
Barnes carried insurance Of $500 on the
building and furnishings. He bought the
property 20 years ago next April and hac
operated il AS a hotel all the time since
then except for five years when G. +
Dickerson had charge.
The hotel was built in 1851 and cost af,
Np
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09
VIRGINIA GREATEST SOApSTONE
STATE.

In the production of soapstone the Uni
ted States ranks first among all countries,
and Virginia produces about ~ times as
much as the four other producing States
Maryland. North Carolina Rhode Island.
and Vermont The waste from hreakaGe
in quarry ing. saving into slabs, manufac-
turing. and hnal transportation is so great
as to render success in the industry "A mat
ter OF skIllful manipulation. The value of
the stone is in large measure proportion
ate 60 the work done upon il. In the rough
il Is valued at s. or less a ton out when
sawed into slabs its value is increased To
about SIS. and when made into laundry
tubs il may attain a value Of about $50 \
ton. The production of soapstone and tale
in the United States is steadily increasing
according to the United States Geological
Survey. Department of the Interior In
100 it was % short tons, in 1910 il was
10, ZIG tons, and in 1915 it was 1851 short
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09
FOUL PLAY SUSPECTED
Autorsy Performed on Body Of Charles
Buyer. 7S, Found Dead in Wcy-
bridge Rnrn.

Middlebury. Nov. Am autopsy was
performed upon the body Of Charles
Buyer. aged %. who was found dead
Monday morning in the barn of Edward
B. Ploof Of Weybridge.
1t was at first supposed that Buyer
died suddenly of natural causes. Later.
suspicion Of foul play arose and the
funeral set for Wednesday was postponed
until to-day. when II was again put off
until tomorrow morning
Doctors NJ. H. and S. n. Eddy. r. n.
Prentiss, P. l.. Dorey. z. H Martin Of
this place. and DR.. p. II. Stone and DR..
Whitney Of the State laboratory at Bur-
lngton went to Weybridce and per-
formed the autopsy to-day. The result
could not be learned as the physicians
and authorities refused to make any
statement.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09
RISING COST OF
LIVING INNESTIGA

Washin Eton, NOV. 5.-The rising c
living is being investigated by the e
ment to ascertain whether the in
ing proices are being pushed upwaI
lawfully. Wherever that is found
the case, persons responbile will be
ished 10 the full extent Of the law. a.
ing to Attorney-Ge Gregory.
The department of Justice Is ir
eating the recent abnormal and susr
increases in the prices of various
carries of life. especially coal. VIII
any such increase is found TO have
due to conspiracy OF other unlawf
ton the department will invoke a
the offenders the severest penalties
the law prescribeS."
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09
ONE-HALF OF NEW MEXICO Il FUR
Lie LAND.

OF the IS, 49,, 80 acres Of New Mexico
nearly half is public land and li,r1,"n
acres State land. Ranches cover l2,"o.uH
acres. somewhat less than 10000 is Gull
tivated, and less than $4,000 acres is IT.
riGated. OF the irrigated area 2rA."n acres
belongs to individualsSor partnerships, a.,
no acres TO commercial organizations, Gn.
0l acres to cooperative or community or
caniza tons. and 3O.N0 acres to Indians.
The remainder is irrigated under govern
ment recla nation. and the area so served
VIII be conside raby increased when the
lands below the Elephant Butte dam are
utilized.
one Of the greatest mineral resources of
New Mexico is coal. which occurs in the
large fields west Of Ration, at places near
Cerrillos, about Gallup. and in several
other areas. There are also Naluab BILE
mines Of gold. copper. silver, lead. and
zinc The total production of these metals
in 1915. according to the United States
Geological SURVEY, Department OF the In
terror. had value of sl9,y7a, 4fN. nf which
SIS. 49, .G;4 was copper an output that
gives New Mexico considerable prominence
as a copper producer The output of gold
was 81. vs.. 0'5. The value of the coal mined
in the State in 1918 was 81 49, '6l
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09

sidered. There were informal discussions
by some of the prominent shoe retailers
Ten new members were admitted to the
association. which now includes practical
ly one-half OF the retail shoe dealers In
the State. A six o'clock dinner was served
by Landlord Rowen. Is dealers and sales
mon participating. Afterward, the deal
ers adjoured to the hotel parlor. where
George w Durham OF the wholesale Arm
Of Durham Bros. Co. Of Brattleboro gave
an interesting informal talk.
As guests of the Barre shoe retailers,
the visitors we're taken later in the even
ing to Rowland hall, where the play
ground carnival was in progress. All
Joined heartily in the funmaking and at
the close most of the retailers were ready
to depose that they had attended the most
successful gathering in the History Of the
association. The next meeting will be
held in Burlington during the third week
in February.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09
AND

f. e. Barber Of the municipal court
caused an inquest to be started to-day.
Assistant Judge f. Il. Pier of the county
court is presiding. Attorney-General II.
u. Barber and states Attorney o. y.
Hughes are examining the witnesses be-
nina locked doors. Two police officers
Sheriff G. f. Mann and Deputy Sheriff
Z. l. Knapp. who are the only persons
supposed to possess keys to the lock up
were questioned to-day. It vas announcer
That more witnesses would be examined
tomorrow. Besides the whiskey vine
and rum that disappeared keg OF ale
had been tapped and most of 1T was
missing when inventory was taken
preparatory to selling it by order of the
court.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1916-11-09
SUES AUTO DRIVER
FOR $4,000 DAMAGES

Rutland. Nov. Miss Mary Costello
OF Poultney to-day sued Harold r
Thompson of this city. an omobile
agent. in Rutland county court to ne
cover $4,000 on the ground that she
suffered a broken leg owing to the de-
fendant's negligent driving She al
leges that Thompson invited her and
three companions to ride from this city
to Poultney on September 20 and that
bafore they had left the city he drove
his machine in such a. careless manner
that it left the highway and plunged
into an old cellar hole, the plaintiff be-
ing thrown out. Thompson is a mar
ried man. The entire party had been
at the Bardwell rathskellar just before
the accident.