davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

arms. Join the ends Of these bands.
Turn the right edge under for one-half
inch and fold at the center. Now slip
the gathered edges OF the sleeves be-
tween the two thicknesses and haste.
Then stitch firmly into place and cover
with little strips Of the lace banding.
Sew frills Of lace 90 the edges. Baste
the sleeves in the arm-holes with the
seams az the notches and the single
pertorations at the shoulder seams and
take care 20 hold the sleeves toward
YOU and stitch firmly. Then trim the
seams of to half their width and cut
bias strips Of the material one inch in
width. Turn one long edge Of each
under for one-quarter Of an inch. Ar
range them over the seam hem the
edges int9 place.
10 make the skirt Of flouncing, close
the back seam below the notches.
1hencut straight strips OF material one
and one-half inches in width for
undertaking and two and one-half
inches in width for extension underlap.
Join one long edge Of the facing 10 the
right side Of the opening taking up one
half inch seam. Turn on the seam
and haste along the edge to keep it
straight. Then turn the remaining
edge under one-quarter Of an inch and
hem into place. Make the underlap
exactly as directed for the back of the
bodice, then lap the undertaking on the
right edge over the underlap on the left
and pin into place. Stitch the under
lap TO the undertaking along the lowe
edge.
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

side edges Of the pattern and 70 mark
the basting line and for the material
from which this frock is made. Il will
be easy 60 do that with a tracing wheel,
for such material can be trusted TO
hold such markings as long as will be
required for the making. II wool or
other materials are used, Il will be
necessary TO mark with tailor's tacks
which were described in previous
lessons. Mark all the indicating
notohes and circles, never cut the
notches as so doing Injuries the seam.
As the first step, close the shoulder
and the under-arm seams, that is, take
up a tiny seam on the right side, then
turn and sew the second time on the
lett side this time following the line
that you have marked from the per
iorations. Turn the seam on the
right back edge under and turn the
edge under again on the pcrforations,
and stitch by machine or hem bv hand.
To hnish the left side, cut a strip Of
material the length OF the bodice and
one-quarter OF an inch wider than the
distance from the edge to the per-
forations. Seam TO left back with the
seam on the wrong side, then turn on
the seam and haste the edge. Turn
the extra one-quarter Of an inch under
on the remaining edge which will bring
the fold exactly al the circles and hem.
To trim after the manner shown here.
arrange straight strips OF insertion at
the right side Of the front as shown in
the picture, then cut straight strips OF
material to be one and one-half the
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

THE love Of outdoor life has grown
and is growing with such ra-
pidity in this land Of ours, that
greater and greater attention is being
paid 10 suitable costumes for this
sport and for that Dealers have been
very quick 10 seize upon the idea and
to put forth a great many attractive
costumes labelled Sports" " Some
few Of them are really practical and
they might be worn during the game
Of golf or tennis, but the greater
number belong TO the spectators
rather than to the participant and
should rather be called spectators,
costumes than sports costumes. They
are pretty, they are attractive, they
are picturesque and they will add
greatly TO the pictures Of summer life,
but women who love the game, for the
games sake, who play golf with zeal,
who enjoy the game Of tennis for its
exercise and its health giving pro-
perties, wear costumes that allow the
freest Of movement, that will not
hamper in any way. Tramping over
damp meadows in pursuit Of the golf
ball, calls rather for a skirt of sturdy
material than a dainty silk, and suit
ability IS. after all, the first requisite
Of really good dressing. The so
called sports costumes are pretty
and attractive and they will undoubted-
ly be much worn at the summer resorts.
They do indeed make ideal costumes
for morning wear. Whether one walks
or motors or whether one sits on the
piazza or visits the Country Club, the
costume is correct. The materials
are comfortable and satisfactory from
that point of view and the styles are so
generally becoming that they are a
real boom. The actual lover of the
outdoor games, however, chooses very
different garments and thinks far more
Of the sport than Of the costume. The
skating fad OF the winter brought
forth a great many picturesque and
striking effects, but a visit to the winter
resorts where the outdoor skating was
enjoyed to the full, was quick to reveal
the fact that the greatest enthusiasts,
the most eager skaters, were far more
intent upon going upon the ice and
enjoying Il, than upon the costume
they wore. The latter must be COM
Portable, they must serve the purpose
and they must be suitable, but no
woman who really is an enthusiast in
the matter Of outdoor life, consents to
devote all the time and consideration
70 the selection of her clothing that
the general display Of 80 called
'sports" costumes would suggest.
The delicate Jersey silk is a very
beautiful fabric, it makes very charm
Evening journal., 1916-08-04
Russian Blouses are Being Worn with Serge Skirts

as could easily have been foretold, the
fancy has been productive of other
scarfs of various sorts. We cannot all
afford the kind Of fur that is desirable
for summer use, nor do we all consider
the fur scarf an entirely comfortable
one to wear during the summer months.
Some Of the later Developments Of the
scarf idea are very charming. Wide
scarfs OF black and white satin are
shown that are most attractive and
generally becoming. There are scarfs
OF chiffon and scarfs Of silk and Of al
most every material that can be made
to drape the figure gracefully and be-
comingly. We are having a great
number Of painted fabrics and painted
accessories and the shoulder scarfs Of
chiffon with pointed ends is a very
charming creation, Chiffon Of good
quality has sufficient warmth to make
il a practical wrap as well.
Whatever influences may be at work.
suggestions from the Victorian era
meet one at every turn, and the scarf
and the pellerine are important features.
The Chinese influence that has been
mentioned so many times in connection
with fashions, is bringing about some
rather curious and exceedingly interest
ing combinations and effects. To
great extent, the Chinese idea is ap-
parent in color rather than in treat
ments and some of the parasols that
are designed for out Of town use are
made OF Japanese silk of Chinese
yellow bordered with fringe Of blue
or perhaps alternating sections Of green
with blue. The peculiar shades that
are familiar in the Chinese materials
and Chinese decorations being the
ones chosen, but now and again one
sees a real Chinese motif for embroidery
employed upon costumes Of one sort
or another.
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

Perhaps ono Of the prettiest de-
velopments of the fancy for accessories,
takes the form Of beach sets. The
set consists Of a hat, scarf, a parasol
and a wrist bag all to match and the
very latest material is figured chiffon.
The bags are lined with white or with
colored satin to give them strength,
the shoulder scarfs are lined with
similar material to give them weight
and to make them practical and the
hats are treated in the most dainty
way, that is, with shirrings and puff
ings and little flowers to make them
charmingly picturesque and attraotivs.
They are really morning sets TO be worn
upon the piazza or upon the lawn or
wherever one may be, but everything
is to have a name in these days and
since these sets we're first devised for
Palm Beach, they go forth under the
name Of Beach sets to whatever use
they may be put or for whatever
occasion they may be used.
The fur scarfs that are being ex-
plotted for the summer, have been
freely discussed in earlier letters, and
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

In the diagram that IS shown on the
envelope, the pattern is laid out on
material with the skirt on the length
wise fold II It is cut from nouncing
no piecing will be necessary since the
desired length can be purchased. The
remaining edges will be placed exactly
as shown For short sleeves and
round neck, cut the pattern out one
half inch beyond the indicating circles,
then lay il on the material as directed.
The pattern is new one with the seams
and the basting line, therefore, it is
necessary only TO cut around the out
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

a high collar, a
great many of the
so called Russian
blouses are made
with rolling collars
and with that
wonderful way
which we have Of
utterly disregard
ing the suitability
Of a material to a
treatment, the
really Russian or
rather belted
blouses oi the net
have been shown
with big patch
pockets. That
the net is far too
delicate a material
to allow of such
pockets for in them
selves they weight
lit and pull it, does
not in any way
deter the designers
-. 80. Il q. ~. A 90. 49,. -.
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

charming ones are made Of white net
to wear over silk skirts and they make
a rather dressy variation Of the Sc
psrarte blouse idea. II they are
pretty enough and the accompanying
skirt is suitable, they make afternoon
costumes, but the model is one that
can be converted to use at almost any
hour Of the day. We no longer adhere
strictly to any given model, and while
the. typical Russian blouse is closed
to the left shoulder and finished with
Evening journal., 1916-08-04
How to Make a Childs FrOck

CHlLDREN always can be relied
I upon TO stand in need Of new
irocks at this season Of the year.
some Of those prepared during the
earlier season viii have met with one
disaster or another. and such a little
model as this one must find its welcome.
II IS a very simple and easy garment to
make, yet il gives an exceedingly
smart and dainty result. In the
picture, the skirt is made of embroid-
cred houncing and the frock treated in
that way is extremely fashionable
while at the same time labor is greatly
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

length Of the round neck. Whip lace
10 one long edge rolling the edge as
you sew, gather the other edge and
arrange over the little bodice. Then
underface the neck edge with a bias
strip Of material taking both the rufile
and the blouse in the seam. Next,
close the seams of the sleeves using the
double seams already mentioned, then
gather at both the upper and lower
edges between the double crosses. To
finish the lower edges, cut two bands
of material two inches in width and
long enough to fit the little wearer's
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

model is an exquisite shade of mauve
hemmed with a narrow band of fine
white suede and worn with a white
suede belt. Quite as a matter Of
course, it will accompany a white
skirt and preferably, that skirt will be
white silk of some sort or Of white
serge. The Russian idea is a con-
spicuous one and the Russian blouses
are found in silks and in similar ma
terials and also in net when they are
adapted to quite different uses Very
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

Suitability is a
word that has be-
come nearly ex-
tinct. II the
threatened short
age in certain di-
rections we're to
teach US the proper
uses to which the
various materials
and treatments
should be put, it
would be far from
an entire mis-
lOIN uilts
Among the later
developments Of
the sports idea
must be mentioned
the Russian blouses
Of the jersey silk
that is such a
favorite. Ii really
is a delightful sum
mer material. A
very charming
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

reduced. but plain material can OF
course be used with the lower edge
hemmed or trimmed with a ruf1e or
finished in any way that may suit the
special mother. The process Of making
will be the same, the only difference
required between the skirt Of founcing
and the skirt Of material is to be found
in the cutting. For fonncing, the edge
marked by three crosses must be laid
on the crosswise fold in place OF on the
isnQthnise fold.
Evening journal., 1916-08-04

DATHlNG suits this season are eminently
ID attractive and often give picturesque
effect. The one that is shown here makes
a good example Of the season at its best 1t is
short without exaggeration and it is made of
black and white striped satin trimmed with
plain black. The combination is as fashionable
as any that could be suggested but the silks and
'atins tor salt water use. provide variety of
plain coors and stripes. Plain silk or satin with
scalloped edges, bound. makes an exceedingly
handsome and a quaint suit.
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1916-06-06
McADOO ADMITS CHARGES MADE IN THE DAY
BOOKS EXPOSE OF INCOME TAX STEAL!

Noted Investigator Conducting an,
Expose of the U. S. Income Tax
for This Newspaper ~
In the reply made by w. G. Nc
AdOO, secretary Of the treasury, to a
letter from Rep. LObeck, chairman of
the house committee on treasury eX-
pendituTes, which is investigating
the question Of whether the income
tax can be collected without public
ity, confirms every charge, except
one, that I have made in my income
tax articles.
The only difference is in the
amount Of the tax steal MCAdOO adj
mits there are wholesale evasiOns Of
the law throughout the country, but
upon the advice Of an official of the
treasury dept, known as an actUary,
denies that the fraud amounts to
S32O,OOO,OOO year, as l have charged.
The secretary also admits that
with his present force Of clerks and
revenue agents he cannot hope to
prevent the frauds or detect the
thieves.
McAdoo says it is impossible to get
accurate figures on the gross ma
tionaI income. This, ! claim, is the
best possible argument for throwing
open to public inspection the returns
made under the income tax law.
The statements upon which the
secretary relies to cOntrOveTt my
charges are for the most part inaccu-
rate and absurd.
His actuary estimates the national
income at $2O,OOO,OOOOOO, without
giving any basis for the estimate.
The absurdity of this estimate is evil
dent when it is realized that the value
of manufactured products alone in
1914 was $24,OOO,OOO,OOO, as shown
by the U. S. census official figures or
$4,000, 100000 more than his esti-
mate of the total national income.
Even for 1910, when the national
Income vrroC Ok MOI. cant loCc +boD q,
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1916-06-06


estimate of Prof. Willard L King Of
the University of Wisconsin, who de-
voted an entire book to the pTesen-
tatiOn of his estimates. Similar es-
Inmates were made by Sir George
Paisch, Hon. L. G. c. Money and
other economists.
Sec'y McAdOo's actUary quotes the
estimate of the income of Great
Britain by Sir George Paisch at $12,-
000,0OO,OOO for 1914 He then
places the income of the U. S., which
has more than twice the population
and almost twice the per capita in
come, at once $2OOOO,OOO.OOO.
Multiplying the population by two
and allowing for twice the income for
each person in the U. S. would mean
four times the income of Great
Britain, or $48,OOO,OOO,OO in 1913.
My estimate of national income of
the L. S. for 1914 was placed at only
,$46,OOO,OOOOOO.
The misleading character Of the
actuary's computations is illustrated
by the fact that he first lists a large
LAuAALDC4 VI 10 VI pAOpCALy 90 DC4L46
nOn-revenue producing, of which the
bulk are nOn-taXable, such as goV-
eminent reservations, parks, church,
es schools etc..
These items he estimates to be VaI4
ued at 100000. He then SUBJ
tracts these non-taxabIe items from
the value of the taxable real proper-
ty, instead of from the total wealth
Of the U. S. At best, this is an indi4
cation of gross ignorance or careless
ness.
The actuary charges that I failed
to deduct anything for expense Of
conducting business" On the con-
trary, made allowance for every. ex-
pense, including cost Of materials,
wages, rent, interest and deprecia-
ton, as l will show in detail at the
hearings before the. congressional
,Cr,, v,,iffno
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

drew jackson beat some IL Wcllinctun's vet
Grams who made unavailing charges against
the Americans al the Battle " New Orleans.
Many a man present III the pirates Christ
mas eve ~mcrrymaking could put his hnnd ~ NV
easy fortune buried near at hand. Nut IN after
years Lafitte and his men were driven out I'M
American men If war. and h. took refuge IN
South American waters. where ~ died.
The tide came III and time passed and %I.afittc
and even his beautiful wife became shadow
memories.
Now back we 90 u Hollands cobblcr shop
and sit AZ the feet ~ The wise ud man.
Where Lafitte's home stood. the tide las
washed away the land and hurricanes have shift
ed the shore line, 80 that the site II now IN
der water he said. AZ ~ trimmed 4 boot with
one " the blades fashioned ny n kings armor-
err.
During nv civil War. 4 mysterious shin
ran the blockade. II ~ believed that IA that
ship were men descended from those who had
followed Lafittc.
Once on Clark Island | found u gold watch
and chain which | lated sold for $50. An the
treasure that %Iafitte left either was taken
away by the ship that called there during the
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

There is little or nothing il thc calling ~
pirates To prevent a man from being a gentle
man.
SO. when there was 4 dance at the homo ~
jacques Iafitte on Clark Island. adt lining
Padre Island and across NIadre Hay from Point
Isabel, then outside If the United States. there
was nothing To hinder the gathering NJ goodly
company. Nor was there lack W good cheer.
for ships from half the world had stocked thc
cellars Of American history's pirate ~ luxe.
Such was the gathering on 4 certain Christ
mas even more than 100 years ago. Sacrc ana
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

Par Bleu. That was a night long 10 be re-
membered' The home Of the pirate blaEed
with light. All Of the pirate crew were happy
and many an honest sen brigand. warmed by
the profits from the sale Of stolen goods. fairly
glowed. Ii was a night when thr best sine
flowed and the best friends rnarrelcd Nana
can say more.
Things were most successful. TIE tunta;
fitte's men had lu-rl faaay 4 mrryaantman
within reach III .ivir stronghold had made
usually good hauiS. Net since the days nt
Galveston Island had tsc-c been such gs.us.
In later days %I-liitte fled Spanish lands ana
his men left their hnurts In tho Mississippi
delta islands ANA went nurthward ~ help IN
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21
GXIEMm1erU ae]
|@MS@tls9Tz

lis n fair wind. Before the ship dance tuc
porpaises. and the flying fish leap al play.
The vessels high bows have ports near the
top where the men with flint lock muskrts
may fire on the foe. 4 few long guns ARE W.
the deck. For these BE- pcrilouS times. on
81 arms. They bear a lion and n castlr-th the
arms II Aragon and CASTLE, the Royal Arms
81 Spain.
The ship j. high n the stern. square rugged.
a galleon If the Scvcntcenth Century. about u
day out II the port II the True Cross I'LL
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

made a single motion with the long. thin blade
he was holding. and cut a piece u tough leather
with as much ease rs though il had hcen a
piece Of butter.
The old man smiled like 4 gEume. Sudden
ly about him was the glamur u uld Spain. lie
was a little man commanding 4 galleon. Be
low him on the decks were sailors in 4 kings
uniform. each man with long pistols ard cut
lasses Of Tcdelo steel. Then the halvstoncd
decks faded into a rough board floor A burru
brayed out in the yard and the galleun became
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

PHILADELPHIA, Pa, Sept. 2l-Rcv.
Philip X. McDeyitt was cunsecratcd bish-
op Of the Catholic diocese Of Harrisburg
N The Cathedral Of SITS. Peter and Paul
here today before a large congregation
and z number Of visiting preIates and
priests. Archbishop Prendergast was the
consecrator and was assister BY Bishop
fItfmaurice Of Ere. Pa, and Bishop Ne
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

Civil War or has been washed away by the
sea. Coins have been found there and ON
Dryers Island. across from here. but I never
heard that Wreford found any large treasure
ON Clark Island and he worked n long time
there"
So n"~ VA take another jump from rae cob
hlrr's cabin thar stands near Hollands well
kept little house. ard this time the reader
must consider = tired businessman. :. II. Wre-
ford ri Wall Street.
WEXFORD was rennted IN hc fairly well of"
rs such things went among New York hrok-
ers about thirty years ago. And this il The
story CLEANED from the additional narrative ~
John Scanlon. who told vi his aSoc;ation With
Wreford in the later treasure hunt.
Scanlon was found al the Luna Bar al
Brownsville.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

Richard X. Fox gold belt. cmblcmatic VI
the broncho bnsting championship ~ TIE
world. The bucking contest viii ~ \ lead
ing feature Of pendleton's seventh annual
Roundup carnival, which was opened to-
day and viii be continued through the
week. Many other frontier sports and
festivities are also included III the carni-
val program.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21

tate NJ her father. Antonio Manzo. The
defendant in thc action i Il local box man
uiactEr1ng company. Name was employ
"a by the defendant company August ?.
1913. when he was sen; on an errand ont
side the plant. On his return he alighted
from a street ear, and, a. he did 20 was
killed ny an automobile The petition states
hat the company disclaims liability for
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21
Interesting Point of Liability.

JERSEY CITY. y. J.. Sept 2l.-Nheth-
er an employer j. liable for the death Of
an employee on m errand outside Of the
plant i the interesting question presented
in an action which came NJ for hearing to-
day in the Hudson Court ot Common Pleas.
The action was brought by Miss CelcStiue
Manzo, suing as Administrative If the es-
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21
8rcncho Busting Championship.

PENDLETUH. Ore. Sept. 2l.-Cowboys
vie boast III wv sbiliiy wv tame the widest
hroncho that ever cayorscd over the plains
have gathered her, from many western
states and from Canada ~ contest for the
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21
The moonlight fell like aShrou0 about them Blooo flowed

bench again and the blade beside him-why
that was only 4 shocmaker's knife.
But the motto II these tales il Pirates
First, 50 On with the next story.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1916-09-21
lin the Illinois Cavalryman.)
BY JOHN CARROLL
Fifteen mea on a dead mans chest,
ro-ho-ho, and a bottle OF rum
Drink and the Devil had done for the resi-
Yo-ho-ho and a bottle Of rum

Lay the stakes ~ the table. doubloons.
pieces If eight, pound notes. pesos. florins,
~guildcrs. and gems. then roll the dice. the
dice made from dead mems bones.
Fill the flagons. lay aside the flint lock pis-
: tolls. gather round il the good hold - the
good ship Good Cheer" The Jolly Roger"
is nailed to the masthead and the tales ~ the
Pirates of Point Isabel are "a ~ told. Now.
hearken ye WELT