davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07
Suggestions for Garden Party Frocks

somewhat more mature model than
those already described combines plain
net with embroidered net. There is
\ straight full skirt of the plain material
and this skirt is edged with wide
band of the embroidered net with
picot edges at the sides leaving panel
at the front and one at the back.
Above this edge at about knee depth is
an inserted band, approximately ten
inches wide and between this band and
the lower there is single band ar
ranged across the front and back. The
bodice will be of interest for several
reasons. 1t is closed at the back and
some of the best dressmakers, including
the we'll known ones of Paris, are
advocating the. back closing. The
neck is cut out just little below the
collar and finished with an outstanding
frill of the embroidered net. The
front and back of the blouse are plain
but the sleeves and side portions that
are cut in one with the sleeves are Of
the embroidery, and there are little
trimming portions at the sides that
extend down over the skirt that are
most fascinating and unique but which
defy description. The girdle is formed
of two strips Of narrow velvet ribbon
and there is perhaps no tendency Of the
season more remarkable than this one.
Narrow velvet ribbon in two or in
three rows is much used to form
finish for lingerie frocks, and it is as
charming as charming can be-.
A gown that makes part of June
trousseau and which will be utilized for
various afternoon occasions is made
with a low neck that covers the shout
ders. with straight bertha and with
bell-shaped elbow sleeves. The ma
terial is organdie and the trimming is
flet lace. The gown bears the magic
name of Boue Sisters and consequently
comes with something of authority.
The little bodice is softly tucked at the
topand gathered at the lower edge. It
is embroidered over the front with
trailing vine all of white and the
sleeves also repeat the embroidery.
Both the sleeves and the bertha are
edged with straight lace banding. The
skirt is straight gathered one that is
so extensively used. At the lower edge
is puff of the material and above it a
tucked band of generous width. The
lower edge of the skirt and the two
edges of the tucked band are 6nished
with flet lace and banding Is arranged
over the skirt in vertical lines to give
a panel effect. There are two bands
ofcorn Powered blue velvet ribbon that
form the girdle, and at the left OF the
front there are two loops with a tiny
little yellow rose as finish. The hats
to be worn with these, costumes will
vary greatly in size and In style and in
shape, but there is very marked
tendency toward the broad brimmed
sailor Of lace trimmed simply with
narrow bands of silk or .ribbon around
the crown.
s,t:xr.tssisssss -.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07

and sleeve frills of black net edged
with Royal blue and the same Royal
blue makes the girdle. Beneath the
gown is slip Of the flesh colored net
that is so generally used and on this
net are bands of blue ribbon No
matter what the real foundation of the
gown may be, the slip of thin material
is used between it and the gown itself,
and the flesh colored net is a favorite
for the purpose. 1t gives just faint
-. tinge that is most attractive and It IS
very generally becoming. The slip
may be trimmed as deliberately or as
simply rs the demands of the special
costume require. The very latest
models are not exaggerately short
For dressy afternoon and for evening
: wear they are few inches from the
ground only. The beauty Of the net
gowns is greatly enhanced by this
treatment. Exaggerated shortness is
not pretty in such materials.
A gown Of colorcd oreandie is Of pale
pink The skirt consists of a success
ion Of narrow puffs with ruffles below,
and under each puff is inserted nile
green ribbon: nile green ribbon also
makes the sash The color combi-
nation is charming one. delightfully."-
reminiscent while at the same time it is
new and it seems to belong to the
debutante by right Of natural selection.
Organdie is an old time material,
that is to say, it is revival and it is
really fascinating in the quaint models
. that are so becoming to the younger
confident. A very lovely. one is COM
bined with point d'esprit lace. There
is a straight full skirt of the organdie
on which are arranged a succession of
scant puffs of the point d'esprit, set at
intervals below each puff is ruffle of
the point d'esprit and under each puff
a band of blue ribbon which is half it's
width. There is quite plain bodice
that drops a little below the waist line
and to this the skirt is attached, and
the bodice falls away from the figure
quite loosely. There is very deep
cape Of the organdie that is edged with
.4point d'esprit puff under which is blue
ribbon. A blue ribbon sash completes
the costume.
A gown of colored organdie is of pale
pink The skirt consists Of success
ion of narrow puff with ruffles below,
and under each puff is inserted niie
green ribbon; nile green ribbon also
makes the sash. The color scombi-
nation is charming one, delightfully."-
reminiscent while at the same time it is
new and it seems to belong to the
debutante by right Of natural selection.
While as matter of course, there are
gowns of other materials and a great
many attractive ones are worn, there
is a wonderful charm about the net
and the organdie that makes them
deserved favorites, and brings them
forth in predominating numbers. A
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07

\ Tlast we are having garden party
~ weather and as matter OF course.
garden party gowns will be the
one in demand They are exquisitely
charming for the daintiest of materials
are used, and the organdie and net
which are favorite fabrics lend them-
selves with perfect success to the pre-
vailing fashions. They seem
pecially we'll suited to the quaintness
that makes the seasons essential
feature, and the gowns that are being
worn and those that are being exploited
are fascinating. Simple white cotton
net of fine quality is preferred to al
most every other material, for while
organdie is much seen, the net gowns
outnumber even those of that material.
The net is treated in every known way
however. In some instances it is EN-
broidered, in some instances it is conf
bined with other materials, in some.
the plain net is ruffled and pulled and
hounced to make it's own trimming.
The picot edge or the cut hemstitching
which has become such an accepted
one for many materials is being largely
used, but there is something OF a ten
dency among the best dressmakers to
use the simple cord, that is to say, to
turn the edges under once and to sew
a tiny little cord between the two
thicknesses. 1t ma es a pretty finish
and durable finish and it causes the
ruff1es and hounCes to stand away alter
the prevailing mode so that it has a.
great many advantages OF it's own: A
very charming gown which exploits
that feature, is made of white net deli
cately embroidered by hand. There is
a foundation OF white washable satin
and over it a slip of flesh colored net.
The flesh color gives the white just a
faint color that is eminently attractive:
The neck line is half low and round
with frill that suggests bertha. The
skirt is almost impossible to describe.
but it shows panel front on which is
embroidery while the sides and back
are full and rufles and somewhat
draped. The blouse or the pink net
slip is trimmed with pink ribbon and
the pink ribbon also appears in moder--
alton on the skirt. There is sash OF Z
the same ribbon. A rather unique
gown, one that sounds once more the
note of strong color which has been so
remarkable this season, is of white net.
1t shows a hounced skirt, each founce
headed by puff under which pink
ribbon is inserted, and blouse that
is made with long unlined sleeves Of the
net but worn with an over-bodice that
is almost plain although cut out to
form deep V. Still another gown
that gives evidence of the tendencysis
made of white net combined with
filet lace in cream. The net is darned
to form a wide border and makes the
upper part of the skirt. To it's lower
edge is attached the fiet lace APP
proximately ten inches wide. The
blouse is all of the 6let but the bertha,
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07
Tnffeta and Serge are SerWceable for Girls Dresses

II is scarcely too
early to be consider
ing the school frocks.
Happily, the children
still have some weeks
Of vacation ahead but
time always is needed
to prepare the ward
robe and wise mothers
are considering the
problem. Here, are
two very good models.
They can be repro
duced in the washable
materials Of the early
season or in lightweight
serge and fabrics Of
such sort.
The younger girls
dress is especially we'll
adapted to serge and to
such cotton materials as
gabardine and challis.
Body and skirt are cut
in one-piece and simply
held by means Of a belt.
There is a box plat at
the front and one at
the back so that it is
absolutely simple and
child-like. The pic
ture shows it in a sum-
mer weight serge with
the collar of white serge
banded with blue, and
is worn with a black
patent leather belt,
The same color effect
could be obtained in
linen or in cotton ga
bardine or even in ging-
ha, Chambray could
be treated in this way
with perfect success
and there are many
plaid ginghams that
would be charming
with trimming of plain.
The dress with the
shirred girdle is en-
inently simple but is
adapted to slightly
thinner materials since
it is shirred to form the
girdle. Below the yoke
it is all in one and in
the picture, a checked
gingham is trimmed
with plain colored
chambray. If a more
dressy frock were
wanted, it could be
copied in tafeta.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07
"a Smart Charmeuse

To make the blouse as it is illustrated
ii will be necessary to place the collar
and the sleeves on a different material,
but the diagram, nevertheless. shows
you how they should be placed. The
skirt is shown laid out on material
forty-four inches wide and charmeuse
can be obtained in that width, SO that
you can follow the diagram exactly.
Pin the patterns carefully into place,
then mark the basting line which is
indicated by the tiny perforations near
the edges and mark the various in
dications as has been directed in
previous lessons. Cut on the outside
edge of the tissue for all the seams are
allowed. The best finish for the skirt
is hem and since it is straight it is
easy to allow it. Therefore first mea-
sure the pattern and mark the length
you desire, then allow enough below
the edge to make a fourinch hem.
All the seams must be made in the
double or the French style and the
frills that are to be joined to the collar
and the sleeves must b. whipped on,
of the hand finish that is found in the
best models is desired. First make
the hens on the blouse as directed,
then gather at the shoulder edges and
close the shoulder and the under-arm
seams. After you have cut the strips
for the frills, have them finished with
picot. Gather the frills for the sleeves
and join the lower ones to the bands by
whipping the edges closely. rolling as
you whip, but to do this nicely, you
must trim off the seams to leave
scarcely more than one-sixteenth of an
inch, in place of the half-inch that would
be needed for other material. Basic
the upper frills to the upper edges Of
the bands, then close the seams of the
sleeves. gather them at the upper and
lower edges and whip the lower edges
to the bands and frills together. Place
them in the armholes as directed and
bind the seams carefully with bias
strips of the silk. For the collar, whip
narrow entire deaux, or lace to the outer
edge, then gather the frills and whip
to the edge Of this scanning, as it is
called. using the roll already mentioned.
Arrange the collar over the neck edge
and undertake with a narrow bias
strip Of the silk. Gather the blouse on
the perforations at the waist line and
insert tape to regulate the size, or If
you prefer, adjust to the figure and
stitch a narrow band over the gathers
Close in any way that you may like.
If the whipping OF the frills and cuffs
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07
Days
T.HIS pretty after
noon frock and

THIS pretty after
noon frock and
the useful coat
that is shown with it
are designed for the
young girls and for
small women with girl
ish figures. As they
are shown here they are
designed for the coming
season and they will.
perhaps make their
keenest appeal to those
who are preparing the
college and boarding
school wardrobes, al
though the girls who
are going to the noun
tains for August will
find the coat and the
frock none too warm.
The coat is made Of a
mixed cloth and is
really comfortable for
automobiling or even
for piazza wear on a
September evening if
the resort is we'll up in
the hills. The frock.
as it is shown here, COM
bines blue summer
weight serge with blue
charmeuse satin and
the braiding of blue is
applied over white
serge. 1t could be
copied in a variety of
materials. If some
thing cooler and lighter
is wanted, it could be
made of tafeta or it
could be made all of
charmeuse satin, or the
simple frock, it could be
reproduced in linen.
Pink and white or blue
and white, or one color
with trimming Of white
would be charming.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07

N -NHARMEUSE satin is always
lovely material and Paris has
decided that it is to be one
5spi the, sInartest for between seasons
and early Autumn. This gown shows
Iit combined with embroidered net.
The color Of the silk is rich
grey and the lace is ivory white.
THE two combining to make
Emost charming effect. Both blouse
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-09-07

and skirt are simple, neither one re-
Squires any technical knowledge for the
making. The envelopes that accom-
pany the patterns, give diagrams for
cutting Of the material and for the
putting together of the garments SO
that there is no thinking or no planning
TO be done, it is only necessary to
follow the directions and the few
supplementary ones that are given
below.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-03-20
STATE FUND TO
HELP EMPLOYERS
Plans to Get Inspections Start
ed in Behalf of the Safety
Movement

Cooperation by the State Insur-
ance fund with manufacturers in es-
tablishing more safety devices is an
nounced by Albert L. Allen, assistant
manager of the State Insurance Fund
to-day. The fund, says Mr.. Allen,
has passed the 10000 policy mark and
is writing policies at the rate of from
thirty to forty per day and the head
quarters of the fund will be located
on the first floor of the Masonic
Temple, Harrisburg, with branch
offices in Philadelphia, Pittsburgh,
Scranton and Altoona.
THE experience of the State Fund
has been extremely favorable with a
very low loss ratio in comparison
with premium income and forecasts
substantial dividends at the end of
the year." says Mr.. Allen. THE large
number of policies issued for small
premiums by the State Fund COM
prises a class of very desirable risks
from which few claims originate as
compared to the aggregate income.
THE inspection force, working un-
der the schedule rating plan, which
has been adopted by the Common
wealth, is in the field, visiting en-
ployers for preliminary inspections
preparatory to the inspections for the
official rating by the Pennsylvania
Bureau. The inspectors will give
safety engineering service and advice
to employers which will enable them
to perfect their plants and improve
conditions to a degree which will per-
NIT the greatest possible reduction of
premium"
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-03-20
SPRING WARNING
FROM DR.. DIXON
Says That Fresh Air and EXer-
else Are the Best Tonics
For Everyone Now

Warning against too much atten-
ton being paid to Spring tonics when
the geese start to fly northward and
the bulb plants begin to show above
ground is sounded by Dr.. Samuel G.
Dixon, State commissioner of health,
in a weekend health talk issued to-
day. The commissioner holds that
fresh air, exercise and attention to
diet are better Spring tonics than
those which come out of bottles.
The commissioner says that home
remedy manufacturers also get busy
in the Spring and that a wave of
Spring tonic excitement gets started
in the land. The commissioner says:
The tonic which the vast majority
of individuals need at this period of
the year is fresh air, exercise and a
simpler diet. Owing to weather con-
ditions many of our activities are
restricted in the winter time. There
is also a tendency to eat excessively
of meat and fatty foods. AS result
when the Spring arrives with it's
warm days many of us are like fur
mace that has been so choked with
fuel that it doesn't draw well.
You cannot buy relief from these
conditions at a dollar a bottle. Medi-
cine will not make up for over eating
and under exercise. The high death
rate which almost invariably prevails
at this season of the year from pneu-
monia, tuberculosis and other respira-
tory diseases is largely due to the re-
duced physical resistance of indivi-
duals, which makes them particularly
sensitive when the sudden changes of
temperature ocur which are common
at this time of the year. Old people
are susceptible as they are housed
more closely during the winter time
than young folks.
Let your Spring tonic prescription
read something as follows:
!. Eat meat but once a day and
sparingly.
2. Those not under the Doctors
care should take a glass of water be-
fore retiring for the night and one
an hour before breakfast.
8. Get all the fresh air possible.
Sleep with your windows open.
5. See that your clothing is heavy
enough to protect you against sud
den changes of weather.
6. Walk in the open air five or six
miles a day.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-03-20
CEREAL CROP IS
HELD BY WEATHER
Conditions Not as Good as
Formerly According to the
State Statisticians

Pennsylvania wheat and rye show
indications of being only about ninety
four per cent of the average condition
at this time of the year according TO
reports made to the statistical bureau
of the State Department of Agricul-
ture. The acreage devoted to wheat is
about one per cent. greater than last
year and rye is about the same.
Weather is blamed for the backward
condition. Seldom in the last decade
has the wheat crop been less advanced
than at present.
Estimates made to the department
are that twenty-five per cent. of the
wheat crop of 1915 or 6,232, 900
bushels, remains in the hands of the
farmers.
Reports show an increase in pure
bred livestock in the State. There
are about / 500 stations, the same as
last year: $500 bulls, an increase of
$40; boars 7,400, increase of 900 and
rams 3,490, an increase of 290. The
number of steers being fattened on
farms for market at this season shows
a decline as compared with last year.
More lime is being used on fields
in this State now than for years, this
fact being due to the lack of the
foreign potash supply. Seventy eight
per cent of the farmers are using
commercial fertilizer, decline of ten
per cent, the use last year being 2S5
pounds per acreage The total ferti-
lizer used was 33S.520 worth S7,S1S,-
500 against 3S1.92O tons worth ST.
943, 500, in the previous year.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-03-20
NEW LEAGUE IDEA
ONE HUGE JOKE
Al Lawson Says Groom Is
After Free Advertising;
Atlantic Prospects

AL. w. Lawson, promoter of the
Atlantic Yeague, says the Pennsylva-
mia State League is a fake. While in
Reading he handed out the following:
II called up Leo Groom at Lancas-
ter to-day and he assured me that
Lancaster intended remaining in the
Atlantic League. lie said l should not
pay any attention to the Pennsylvania
League talk, as he was only doing it
as an advertising stunt to get fans
talking about the Atlantic League. I
told him that 1 didn't like his methods
of getting advertising.
There is no room for = Pennsyl-
Nania League, as we have the best
towns in this territory. and there is
nothing left for the other fellows.
they mention York, Williamsport, Jer-
sey City and Trenton. l had the op-
portunity of getting these towns for
our league, but they have no grounds.
IheN also mention Harrisburg. | am
positive that Harrisburg would never
think OF Joining a league like the
Pennsylvania circuit.
Holds Key ut Reading
''As to Reading" continued MIR.
Lawson, we hold the key 20 the sit
uation here. Our grounds are located
in the hear of the town. I've had
a club in the northeastern section
and know that the only place for
a team to pay in Reading is at Lauer's.
Baseball has never paid in the north
end of the town because it too far
out. The idea of putting a club here
to buck my Atlantic League team is
ridiculous. When / came to Reading
several months ago | looked over the
situation very carefully and spoke to
about 500 fans on the ground question
They all agreed that Lauer's Park was
the place, and ] made up my mind
that if I couldn't get this ground I
would pass up Reading. The New
York State League sent three repre-
sentatives TO Reading and they dropped
Reading because they could not get
the Third and Elm grounds"
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-03-20
State League Promoters
Hand Out More Publicity

Reading. Pa, March 20.-The pro-
moters and managers of the new Penn
sylvania State League will hold meet
ing at the Bellevue -Stratford, Philadel-
phia, on March 2S to effect a perma-
nent organization and arrange other
details for the coming season. The
season is scheduled to open on May 10
and continue to Labor Day, whether
the league pays or not.
Abraham Rosenbluth, q New York
lawyer, said to represent protected
baseball interests opposed to Al. Law
sons new Atlantic League, and Leo
Groom, local manager of he United
States League team here some years
ago, say that they have leases on three
parks-Island Park, at Harrisburg:
the Lebanon Fair grounds, and the
Circus Maximum here-and that ne
gotiations for grounds in Lancaster
and Jersey City will soon be closed.
Other towns being considered are
Trenton, on account of Sunday base
ball. Hazleton, Chester, Pottsville and
possibly Williamsport.
Managers in prospect are George
Crockill, Harrisburg; Mike Donlin.
Lebanon; Arthur Devlin or Doc
Seaman, Lancaster, and Lew Ritter,
Reading.
Groom says organized league capital
is back of the new circuit. He is a
borther of Bob Groom and once
pitched for the Pittsburgh and Boston
Nationals.