The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1916-03-29
LACE AND ITS ANCIENT
STORY.

Twenty-seven pieces of antique lace
have been collected and lately exhibit
cd at the Little Gallery, New York
city. Spanish and Italian laces We'd
for interest In the assemblage, but
of the former. the most representative
was q gown of ancient Spanish lace
from tho estate OF the Countess Inella
of santa Fe. Spain. This was eigh-
teenth century work, done when noble
families had their own lace makers.
It is of pure silk fiber. imported from
China. This means that II can be
washed without injuring the lace.
Despite its $50 years It is In perfect
condition.
The most expensive piece is italian
grospoint. This Is a straight strip
about . Ia yards long. valued At
$500.
From Spain again IL collar of
OPAQUE crystal beads on net, with a
fringe of beads and a pattern of roses
bling their favored motif for
lace. 1t is much like a small shoulder
cape, rather more unusual than beau
tiful.
Venetian rose, roseline and Flemish
lnces of the seventeenth century lay
side by side with some Burano edging.
OF the early history of the latter little
is known. The thread was brought
from Flanders, 1t Is said. as the flax
OF the locality, when equally fine. was
not equally strong. The designs of
antique Burano are denoted as being
a conventional treatment of flowers
and ornaments. 1t was worked on a
pillow, but not with bobbins. The idea
of the pillow was that the work
should be at suitable height for the
maker and to lessen the necessity or
handling. In 1885 the industry of
Burano lace-making was dropped;
but In 1879 II was resumed. The new
makers now copy not only the cid
lacea, but laces of any model
Aiencon, supreme among French
laces, was found In the collection.
Alencon lace was In the forefront OF
lace-maling activity at the time when
France was estimated TO have more
than 5000 persons employed In the
industry. (Today half the lace makers
of Europe are claimed by France. and
this would place the number at about
125.o00.) In 1878, the name point
de France" began to be confined TO
point d'Aiencon. This IL a pillow lace
In the sense that the parchment pat
tern rests upon a pillow while being
wrought out. The work is done with
q very fine needle.
Needle point lace is the art In which
one needle and thread are used in
forming the design. IT has never been
successfully initiated by machines for
the reason that a machine cannot pro-
duce a buttonhole- stitch, and needle
point 10 built up OF buttonhofe stitch
and other ioopings. Bobbin lace Is
more nearly initiated than needle
point, but here. as the machine can
not make a regular plat, the texture
is not easily mistaken.
There was shown in the cole ctfon
one example of bohbin Milan that
dated from, the seventeenth century.
A fifet bedspread was worthy of
note II, Also was of the seventeenth
century. and was valued at 5000. At
about the center the word Ttgrfs'
was worked into II; and the tabled
wolf of Romuius and Remus, with
gargoyles, and some well-dressed gem
tiemen with wings, were q part of
the wsii-filled groundwork. It's exact
st tory was as obscure as the origin
of lace itself, which Is wholly un-
known, as both Flanders and Italy
bespeak its invention. and close stu
dents of the subject distinguish GER
tain free stitches In earliest embroid-
cry as lace stitches.