The Union times. [volume] (Union, S.C.) 1894-1918, 1916-06-09
MAKING FELT HATS
The Process From RaW Material
to Finished Product.
MANY BRANDS OF FUR USED.

Are Cleaned and the Various Grades
Of Hair Are Mixed and Worked Into
the Required Shape.
One OF the very Interesting exhibits
I'm the division Of textiles of the Ma.
tional museum at Washington shows
clearly just how such hats are made
from the fur to the finished product
and includes many Of the latest and
most popular styles ready to wear. as
well as special shapes manufactured
for particular foreign markets. The
exhibit Is accompanied with photo
graphs illustrating scenes I'm the fac
tory OF one of the largest and best
known American hat manufacturers
These enable the observer to connect
the materials, apparatus and finished
products shown into tangible story
In the manufacture OF one OF the
most popular brands OF American hats
the fur OF North American beaver.
South American nutria. SaXony hare
and English and Scotch conry are used
When the peltS OF these SuimalS are
received ut the factory ~ are first
washed with whale oil soap. after
which the long, coarse hairs are re.
moved. since they would tend to make
the felt too rough. The skins are then
treated with nitrate OF mercury. proc.
csS called "CarcotinC." which gives the
fur its feeling properties" making il
knit together when hot water and pres.
sure are applied. The SKINS are then
hrnShp1 n yyhi
all the dust and other foreign sub
stances.
The skin next goes 10 n cutting ma.
chine. where revolving shears strip
away the fur. cutting it so close that
1t appears To have been shaved Off.
From this machine the fur is carried
away on an endless belt or apron, Oh
which it lies complete. just rs it was
in the pelt, and it is hard to realize
that the skin below has actually been
removed. This Is to facilitate the work
or the sOrterS who select from the belt
as it passes them just the parts desir.
Ell for various grades OF hats. The
sorting is according to color and quail
ity. each sorter selecting Il different
part. such as the side or back, suitable
Although cleaned. carroted and sort
cd, the fur is by no means ready for
use. 1t has to be seasoned. Just like
lumber, and Is stored until ready for
use. Some manufacturers have mil
lion or two dollars worth of fur sea.
soning In storage. When the fur IS
properly seasoned 1t Is mixed in GER
tain proportions to produce the desired
texture and color. and from here on
the work is not done mechanically but
by hand, being mainly n question of
art and Skill. After various portions
OF different kinds Of fur have been Sc
lccted the actual mixing is done by a
machine which blows them about I'm
ing is perfectly even.
A certain amount OF fur Is then
weighed out, according to the weight
OF the hat to be made, and blown
upon a copper cone perforated with
many thousand tiny holes, SO that il
looks like n sieve. The cone is about
three feet in height aud as wide at the
base. An exhaust fan operates inside
and below the cone so that the air and
fur are drawn from the outside The
air passes through the openings. bur
the fine particles Of fur stick and GOV
or the whole surface.
The cone holding the film OF fur Is
inclosed in a snugly fitting jacket and
lowered into n vat Of boiling water
This develops the felting properties OF
the fur, the Particles OF which mat and
lock together. enabling the thin. deli.
cate film Of wet fur to be lifted from
the cone. The resulting cone OF fur is
very delicate embryo hat except as
to size; In that respect 1t might be the
hat for giant
"A bundle OF about twelve OF these
large forms is rolled in a wet condi.
tion until the tbers knit together
slightly. giving the hats hardness and
strength. Then they are put into
sizzling kettle. where they are strunk
ia hot water. beaten and manipulated
until they are between ten and four.
teen inches in diameter. Each hat Is
then stretched, pulled aud blocked
with the aid OF hot water until It takes
the form Of regular hat with crown
and brim
IL the hat is to he a soft one it has
only TO be placed on block and fin.
iShcd with fine sandpaper, which gives
IL velvety appearances The outside
band and binding and the sweat band
are then added. after which the brim
il curled.
Stiff hats, or derbies. are saturated
with a solution Of sbellac before they
are blocked. They are then put into
an oven until they become pliable.
when they are blocked with ire.
mendous pressure OH a mold which
shapes and curls them at one opera
ton. Following which they are lined
and trimmed.