Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1916-02-28

Ihis is the day OF tho shoe Never
before has footwear been at once such
Il vital. spectacular and extensive fac
Tor IN the life Of the world The bel
Ngcrcnt nations OF Europe are scour-
!nG the earth for leather TO cIothe tho
icct OF their armies. AT the same
time woman has seen fit to lii, her
skirts just II little higher than ever be-
fore, making ii necessary for her shoe
tops TO rise and meet them. This not
only requires more leather but IL
brings shoes into vastly more pronl-
nent position, with the result that
they have changed from lnconspicu-
Gus black or tan accessories to really
brilliant and colorful creations-at sl5
pair
Thus shoes have become the most
important article III the wardrobe OF
the wcll-aCcoutrcd woman. High shoes
low shoes. medium cut shoes. colorcd
Shoes. and. most OF all. white shoes
are SO popular that some OF tho manu-
facturcrs. II is reported. have refused
war orders for army shoes TO Keep up
with the home demand. The woman,
who. a couple of years ago, neglected
her footscar in tho greater interest of
her hats and frocks, now spends a
day in selecting a SO pair OF shoes
and buys the rest Of her apparel to
match them. II wanted a light gray
suit this spring, but [ bought blue
TO 20 with them is the sort OF thing
tho retailers or ready-nadc wear arc
constantly hearing.
An Different Hats.
One firm offered over fifteen hundred
separate styles OF shoes this season
and is Still manufacturing new ones
II looks If the future were going
to evolve the individual pair Of shoes
the same as the individual style OF hat
In such case, the American nanufac-
tlrcr who was responsible for STYLES
in women's shoes will have started
something he couldn't finish. AZ It is.
the manufacturer is having his trou-
blcs Retailers Will not buy more,
than Il few pairs OF one style at "A
time, for fear that the next week Will
find them out OF date. On the other
hand, II one particular style proves
popular they rush the manufacturer
with orders and are indignant IL there
is any delay. Under these crcum-
stances. the manufactures is at his wits
end to know how many shoes OF any
one style to make.
The good old times when he planned
his spring line of shoes in the fall and
his fall line OF shoes in the spring are
in the distant past. Now he is lucky
to keep three weeks ahead Of the
game one firm last fall praiuicd a
pamphlet for It's custom, showing
the styles that were to be popular in
the spring. The first illustration was
a sidc-lacc gypsy boot OF tan kid. no
doubt inspired by the fact that the
demand for gypsy boots last fall was
enormous. AZ tho season progressed.
however. the fad died out. and not "a
single side-lacc gypsy boot is the
market this spring.
White IL One Fad.
lust at present white fad is In
progress Waite shoes twelve and if-
teen inches high are in great demand.
and the white low shoe is also pop
Ular. one Philadelphia firm has placed
Il large number OF white Colonial
pumps, with high wide tongues and
various styles OF buckles on the mar
kct. which are achieving great success.
The manufacturers are afraid OF the
white fad, however. Widespread pop
uIarity usually has the effect of kill
ing an article. Then. too. the large
amount Of advertising given the fact
that they were washable is likely TO
prove a boomerang. AS matter or
fact. they are washable with the
proper preparation. but retailers have
received many complaints from Gus
toners who had failed to produce re-
suits with Ivory soap and water.
The rumor that skirts are to he
longer this season is causing some
uncaSines among manufacturers, with
hundreds of fiftccn-inch boots on their
shelves. While the fashion magazines
are still showing the short skirt, which
brought in the fad for high boots, in
New York the longer skirt is begin
ming to make it's appearance, the skirts
OF some OF the latest stage costumes
being only about three inches from
the floor. This viii probably kill tho
demand for the high boot, which soon
will be drug on the market.
Another difficulty presented in the
manufacture of shoes is the excessive
demand for wooden heels. The manu-
facturers Of this article cannot keep
piants are in turn held up on theirs.
Shoe men are emphatic in their asser-
tions that they would certainly go into
tho wooden heel business if they were
sure the demand would last.
wnr Complexities situation.
1t Is consistent with the inconsis-
tency Of woman that She should sud-
denly evince Il desire for styles in shoes
lust as n war broke in Europe, compli-
eating the leather situation In this
country and creating Il tremendous de-
mand FOR army shoes. Every large
war ordcr for shoes filled in the United
States causes n rise in the price OF
leather here. the supply OF which is
becoming so scarce that the shoe man
ufacturers are pnnic-strlcken. Oblvi-
Gus to any commercial stringency eX-
cept in its effect upon her own pocket
hook, the Amcricait woman OF fashion
has gone scrcnely on demanding more
and more styles In shoes and even
leather coats and trimmings on her
hats and skirts. Tho shoe plot thickcns.
The SOURCES OF the leather supply.
which were formerly considered inex-
haustiblo. arc beginning to show signs