Arizona republican., 1916-10-04

When the fairies restored their pres- tuts % tle princess, afterwards famed Tor her 100 years nap, they made her good and lovely, rich and wise, but in modern times Q sleeping beauty" would wish 10 have conferred upon her the gift of dress instinct" for the Ameri- ean women crave that as most precious boon Nowadays we must credit her with possessing it, for the standard of good taste and the understanding of what to wear places the American woman in class by herself. There is nothing frivolous about studying the ciotl g. problem. Those who give it the sno5s thought and then apparently for gel 1t, are the ones most practical and best dressed.
 Autumn IS the season when the great est tashon changes occur. The practical sartorIal ideas originated without the as- sistance of foreign designers, has given us a worldwide fashion reputation.
 Inspirations for fall garments have been taken from many periods and coun- tries. Russia, the ancient costumes of Poland, the Moyen age, Louis Fifteenth lcuod, are among those that contribute 'theJr quota.
 l. Broadcloths, velour de laine, velours, ,ouyeunes, gabardines, zibelines, jersey and pile fabrics are the materials gen. erally sought for. Features of the suits are the longer coats and skirts. It may be safely affirmed that the skirt within a few inches of. the instep is no longer Sated dowdy as 1t was a few weeks previous.
 The question raised as to the width rf the skirts to be worn with the three quarter length coat is answered by saying mat heavy materials do not exceed from three 10 three and a half yards, the Sider skirts of lighter weight material, know no limit to the yardage.
 D The waist line is slightly above the normal in some of the tailor suits and separate coats. Collars are high and hug the threat closely. The military collar, high fur collar, or collar turned back HFith wide reveres to show the vest, are prominent.
 Sleeves are snugly fitted at the top, set n at the regular or extreme shoulder hne, though certain types show unex- pected fullness at the top.
 Fur, braid and embroidery are used l7vishly for trimming All skirts have some fullness at the top with a ten- dcney to push the fullness to the back. Modified circular, pleated effects and many gored models are used. Skirts distended hy stifening at the top of the back or below hip and knee conti1dc to be worn.
 There is a pronounced vogue for the long tunic and various pannier ideas. One cannot refrain from mentioning pockets of every description.
 A two-piece suit of elephant gray bToadcloth trimmed with smoked fur has q three-quarter length jacket semi-ftted back and front. Fur bands are run un- der short tabs of the cloth outlining each Side ot the front. The collar is of fur. Deep pockets on the coat are fur trimmed. The long sleeves are set in ai the normal arm hole with tab trim ming. The cloth belt is trimmed through she center with fur band and cut in one with the front. A belt made of fur IS run through cloth slashes on the full skirt.
 A blackberry colored broadcloth trimmed with seal is made in simple con- scTvatve lines. The medium length jacket IS collared with fur. The jacket has the back fitted and scanned. The side portions are gathered at the line of fhe waist and extend over the skirt of the jacket The skirt has a plain front panel and gathered side. Below band inc shirring, there is a pocket at each side of the front panel.
 Separate coats are made in both straight and flare effects. With the ex- oeption of sport coats and sport" these days IS an elastic term, coats are 45 to %S inches long.
 Belts are used on motor and street coats. Cellars of every variety from inc high standing collar to the cape and sailor collar are different-very different r-this faD b"th on the coats and suits
 Notifications of l,irnona styles and beIl sieeves or those with fuliness caught ni the cuffs, are seen on the utility coats lilere IS cali for coats of mixtures tweeds. veiours, checks and plaids. wool velour, broadcloth and pile fabrics. Fur trimmings again have liberal use.