davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1916-08-13

OF France did not respond in any
important measure to the mill
tary influence when her armies
lean public will incorporate into its
clothes it's enthusiasm for prepared
ness.
There has been no event since the
Spanish war which has so stirred the
mothers, sisters and sweethearts of the
American continent as the calling out
of the National Guard to the Mexican
border.
There has been as much keen grief,
sorrow and nervousness over this
event as there was among the women
of France when the men were sent to
the front. and il was probably the
black shadow of the great war that
kept the women of this country from
any optimism. To them, mobilization
meant war and guarding the border
the possibility of being shot by raid
ers.
To the danger of the bullet they
added the more probable danger of
illness and heat prostration. New
Mexico and Texas are not states that
offer either cool breezes or healthy
climates. and experimenting with camp
conditions on a huge scale offered all
the possibilities of epidemics and Sc
rious individual illness.
~
There have been few cheerful women
In this country since June. although
they have not said word against
Mi do hair
duty of protection. Many have given
up going on pleasure trips SO that they
can be somewhere near the border or
else in their own homes. where they
are in touch with the post and teie-
graph Offices
For this reason the cities are filed
day and night with groups of women,
as though the season were autumn in
stead of midsummer. and the resorts
near the great cities. especially those
near New York. were never SO crowd
cd. because, for some reason. no one
wants TO be away from home for any
length of time. and communication to
and fro is admirable.
Therefore. the conversation. the emo
tions and the sorrows of the season
seem to be particularly attached to. the
calling out of the National Guard.
When a condition like this exists in
France ii is instantly reflected in the
clothes. and il is a significant fact to
the student of fashions that America
is showing today a strong response by
Incorporating red, white and blue in
some measure into its summer gowns.
The best part Of this Introduction of
patriotic colors into feminine apparel
is that the red and blae of the Amer
fcan flag are especially good They
are tones that can be mingled with
white, sweet gum, beige. dark blue and
gray. and as these latter tones are the
chief ones for foundations this year
the flashes Of red and blue against
their neutral surfaces carry no objec-
tion. They enliven the season.
So far there is no uniformity in the
Evening star., 1916-08-13
0rgandy Dresses.

A excellent white organdy dress
has a pink linen girdle and a tiny
border of the pink linen binds the
ruffies on the skirt and sleeves and
also binds the collar and the cuffs
Another smart combination is a ligh,
tan organdy with a darker shade OF
linen. almost brown. for the bind
ings
dress of yellow organdy is
trimmed with innumerable little ruff
nes of itself. White grosgrain picot-
edged ribbon bands the cuffs and col
.ar and crosses surplice fashion over
the blouse. This may also be made in
all white
A quaint old-blue organdy frock is
tucked. frilled and embroidered in its
own color. There are pink roses at
the waist line, black velvet streamers
and a white organdy super-collar over
collar of blue organdy
Evening star., 1916-08-13

panies now sell charming designs for
these things
For a long time it has been possible
to buy machine e-embroidered shelf
edging in heavy white cotton. Now the
design for this edging can be bought
and transferred to white cotton bands.
1t consisted of tiny kitchen utensils
bowls, coffee mills, pepper pots. spoons
and teapots. There are similar de-
signs to apply to the ends of kitchen
towels. The same designs are very ef-
fective worked on buffet and serving
table scarfs for the simple dining
room. They are most effective in blue
on white.
The swallow and bluebird remain
favorite designs for embroidery. and
they may be bought in numerous atti-
tudes to apply to centerpieces and
table doilies. to towels, bureau scarfs
and other linen.
Cross stitch is used. and very ef-
fectively. too, for embroidering towels.
and it can be quite as effectively used
on children's dresses. Worked in pink
or blue on white it gives charming re-
suits.
The woman who does much embroid
ering should buy several sets of the
alphabet in transfer patterns. She
will then have any letter she needs,
whenever she needs it.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

chiffon is used for afternoon capes in
resorts, at the casinos, country clubs
and polo fields.
For motoring there is the italian
cape of dark blue cloth lined with
the red Of our flag in taffeta or satin.
There are also actual Red Riding
Hood capes worn by the younger set,
the pointed hoods hanging between the
shoulder blades.
Tripping around through the resorts
one Is convinced that the cape has
forged its way to a position above the
coat. True. the motor coat is. still de-
sirable and no one neglects it, but the
cape is the fashionable garment. The
original devices that are worked out
in it give it wide appeal to the rest
less woman who insists upon new
things even though she has no old
ones.
In the evening. to wear with white
satin gowns, there are wraps of red
chiffon lined with blue chiffon. with
hood capes almost covered with bands
of white marabou. At dinner parties
in the open the women keep these
capes on during the evening and they
make very attractive setting for
low gown and bare head.
BY the way the continued talk of
Evening star., 1916-08-13

a heavy trimming and a sheer fabric
that fur banding on chiffon and crepe
bring.
Cords and tassels are favored for
girdles. Sometimes the cord is in
reality a fold of silk and the tassels
are weighted balls of the same ma
teria1.
Aprons and hip yokes are simulated
with embroidery on many of the new
skirts.
The neck line that is off from the
shoulders or very nearly so and
straight across the back and front con-
tinues in good style.
Cotton net has proved itself a vaIu-
able adjunct to our list of fashionable
fabrics. It is occasionally used in
colors for afternoon frocks.
In keeping with this fashion there is
a new wash ribbon. for lingerie, with
tiny edge of gold or silver metallic
thread. -
Beaded slippers win probably enjoy
something of a vogue this autumn, and
another fact about footwear-this one
perhaps not so welcome-is that prices
are still soaring. At least the woman
who is planning to buy shoes, IL she
knows the conditions that exist in the
shoemaking business. ought not to be
unwilling to pay a higher price than
ever for goods of really first-class
workmanship.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

management of the flag colors. All our
women and their dressmakers seem to
have worked it out in ways pleasing
to themselves.
1t may be only an embroidered
miniature flag that ripples across the
corners of wide. white organdy col
lar. or a brass army buckle fastening
blue and red ribbon belt, that gives
away the fact that the wearer is in
clined TO the military: and as soon as
any of these symbols appear there
rush in a host of limitations.
The small flag has come to be quite
a favorite way of expressing ones in
terest IN the National Guard. The en-
broidery is done in loose stitches. The
flag is impressionistic rather than de-
tailed. and the effect is quite good.
Another minor way of using blue
and red is in cross-stitching put at
the edge of cloth suits or gowns. 1t
is used in blue serge one-piece frock
in which the skirt is made of circular
ruffies, and the short Russian Blouse.
finely pleated from shoulder to hem.
is made of silk voile with a band of
serge at the bottom. On each ruffe
and at collar and cuffs is cross stitch
ing done IN red and blue silk.
Red. blue and white ribbon sashes
are widely accepted. Sometimes the
stiff flag ribbon is used with a large
silver or brass buckle in front. as was
the fashion ten years ago. when the
waist line was considered an important
part of the anatomy and was not elm
mated or evaded, as it has been for
the last six years.
Muslin frocks in flesh color. white
and pale gray, with ruffies which are
Evening star., 1916-08-13

Cut some spongecake into slices and
put layer of them at the bottom OF
pie dish. Then put layer of the
stewed fruit, and SO on until the dish
is filed. Press contents down so the
dish may be quite full. On top place
a plate and a weight upon that. Leave
cake till following day Turn out on
dish. and on top of it spread beaten
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar
(; Sprinkle little sugar over the ton
and bake in a cool over until the whites
are set.
Gooseberry Jelly.
Stew one quart of gooseberries with
/ half a pint of sugar in two quarts OF
water. When the fruit is quite tender
| remove the pan from fire and stand
until cold. Then return to the stove
to heat again. By doing so the fruit
will be made a better color Dissolve
| two ounces of gelatin in a little water
and add half a pound of sugar Wher
the fruit is stewed to. a pulp, strain
the juice carefully and add the gelatin
and sugar. with enough water to make
/ three pints. Wet molds. pour juice into
! them and leave them to set Whipped
cream goes well with this jelly.
Gooseberry Fool.
|
! stewpan with cup of water and halt
pound of sugar. Let stew very
| gently until the gooseberries are per-
fectly tender. then remove them from
| fire and rub through hair sieve. Let
stand until cold. When quite cold add
a half-pint of cream and if the fruit
is sour more sugar may be added.
| Gooaaborru Tr{f<are
! Fry one pint Of green gooseberries
in butter until tender Then mash
them to pulp with fork. Take the
yolks of three eggs and the whites of
two. tablespoonful Of sugar. a table,
spoonful of cream and one of milk,
ounces of -four. Thoroughly mix these
| ingredients and add gooseberry pulp
| to them. Boil for a few minutes to
thicken, then drop pieces of required
| size into frying pan containing boil
ing fat: fry and sift with sugar before
! serving.
Cream Whips.
| Cream whips. when served ice cold.
are both refreshing and nourishing.
| Take one pint of rather thick cream,
| add sugar to make quite sweet, and
then wineglass of orange juice and
one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Stand
| the mixture in a pan of crushed ice
| fifteen minutes. Then fold into the
| whipped whites of three eggs and
serve at once. heaped high in wine or
| sherbet glasses.
iced Tea.
| Iced tea is so popular that ii seems
| rather absurd to even call the house,
| wife's attention to 1t, and yet the glass
of iced tea properly made and cor
! rectly served is the exception. not the
| rule. on private tables. For some
reason the idea obtains that tea Of any
sort. brewed in any way. may be util-
lied for this purpose. the only thing
necessary being to add water and
| serve. The truth Of the matter is just
the reverse. In the first place, one
| must have good tea II q savory brew
10 to be made. The teapot (Which
should be china) must be thoroughly
scalded before the dry tea-a scant
teaspoonful for each cup Of water and
one for the potts put into It, The
water must be fresh and just boiling.
Evening star., 1916-08-13
IF YOU EMllBROlDER

goes rapidly. Especially if you work
in beads of several different colors is
the work engrossing.
This year. as in every other year,
they are new stitches and old ones
revived Nothing will more quickly
teach you these stitches than a lesson
or SO with good teacher. The time
and money thus spent will be well
spent for after instruction you will
be able to go ahead and work the new
stitches perfectly. LaZy-daisy stitch,
Venetian laddering, eight-strand stitch,
satin stitch. feather stitch and eyelet
work are all extensively used in the
summers embroidery.
AS to the household linen supplies
you may yourself plan and stamp: they
are legion. All the paper pattern com
Evening star., 1916-08-13
To Keen Suet.

IF AXE out any skin there may be,
and then put the suet in a sauce
pan and place on a warm but not hot
fire and let 1t melt gradually. When
quite melted pour it into a pan of
cold water. When quite hard wipe it
dry. wrap it in white paper and when
wanted for use it may be rubbed on a
crater.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

the revival of first empire styles is
actually changing the coiffure before
there is a strong evidence of the
Josephine frock itself. The hair is
and often there is no formed knot.
simply a bunch of small loose curls
held at the base by two ornamental
combs. preferably jet.
Among all the small straws sweep
ing down the current of fashion this
August is one which shows that jet
will probably be featured this autumn.
Jenny has a new topcoat heavily
banded with rabbit, which is girdled
with jet. and there are white tulle
gowns dropped over satin which are
touched up with jet at waist and
shoulders.
There is the hat of tulle and jet
which is worn with white or pastel
afternoon frocks, but no one can hold
this up as a new and sweeping fashion
forsake it. Mrs. Asquith, for instance.
is one of the prominent European
women who are never without toque
of jet. A correspondent from London
writes that when Mrs. Vernon Castle
danced for charity before all the nota-
a play which was written and acted by
Miss Asquith, the premier's wife wore
her inevitable black toque with
short cloth of gold. military jacket and
velvet skirt. Quite a costume,
Had Mrs. Asquith been Mile. Monna
Delza the world would instantly have
said. Behold, startling new fashion
"a daughter of the Regiment de
Luxe And we would forthwith begin
to consider a cloth of gold military
jacket!
Another effect of the mobilization of
the National Guard on American fash
ions-to go back to the beginning of
this ARTICLES the introduction of a
new kind of sweater called the poncho
It's straight piece of fine. colored
wool with an oblong opening at the
neck. each two selvages caught at the
waist line under the arm with an orna-
mental band. These selvages. as well
as the opening at the neck are orna-
mented with brilliant Indian en-
broidery
These sweaters hang in straight
line back and front, and the width of
the material is so wisely chosen that
it does not extend more than an inch
over the top Of the arms.
*
In choosing one. be quite sure that
it is small enough. Its smart air is
instantly obliterated if it is too wide
across the chest and falls Imply be-
low the shoulders.
Who brought in ginghams? 1t may
have been Miss Margaret Hawkes.
worth, that exquisitely dressed dancer.
who. ensconcing herself in bungalow
where she can raise chickens. has
ginghams de luxe made by fashionable
dressmakers, which she wears as an
appropriate accessory to her summer
activities.
Following her example, young girls
at the resorts where there is afternoon
dancing wear brightly colored ging-
ham or calico skirts with sweaters to
match.
Sitting in wicker chairs at the side
Evening star., 1916-08-13
To Make Window Shades.

NN7 HITE window shades may be made
w out of Indian head linen. which
sells for IL or Is cents yard.
Tack one end on the roller hem the
other end and insert the curtain stick.
These will launder well and WIFI last
for years.
Evening star., 1916-08-13
Hash in Peppers.

nut the tops Off from three green
" peppers and soak them in cold
water while preparing the filling. Mix
one cup of chopped cold meat and one
half cup of chopped potatoes. and sea-
son with celery salt. Drain the pep
pers and fill with the hash mixture.
Bake in q hot oven about twenty min
utc1.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

The Victorian capes which were
ushered in last February with 1s40
and 1870 hats to match did not sue
ceed, but the Victorian shoulder scarf
that wide piece of fur which looked
like a position collar slipped to the
top of the arms-has been entirely
successful.
But the peasant cape has outdone all
others 1t may be short or long. of
tulle and ermine, or of black satin
faced with blue, with a hood that
stretches across the shoulders built of
the two colorS
Wherever possible. the dressmakers
use a contrasting color as a lining,
even if the material is as unsubstan-
tiaI as tulle.
A gathered cape of gray chiffon is
lined with horizon blue-for the hori-
zon is blue in France. although it is,
as rule, gray in America
Iridescent taffeta lined with tulle or
Evening star., 1916-08-13
Currant Ice.

o make currant ice boil two cups of
water and two cups of sugar to a
sirup and add two cups of strained cur
rant Juice. Heat it. boiling hot and
pour it over the whites of three eggs
which have been beaten to a stiff froth.
Whip all together, cool and free:a. ~,
Evening star., 1916-08-13

lines of the tennis courts at smart
country houses are young married
women wearing simple frocks Of Poiret
cottons. closely patterned after the
vivid. cheap stuffs that are worn by
the negroes of the southern states.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

Turkey red calico and different
varieties of cotton which can be bought
at small prices are made into separate
skirts and worn with short blue
Jackets of linen or with sweaters of
Jersey cloth. On the tennis field in
smart country places one sees short
blue linen skirts with red MILDLY
blouses trimmed with white sailor col
lar and cuffs.
None of these vivid combinations is
worn in the city. They are kept for
the open air, but as fashions are as
significant today in the country as in
town no reporter would dare omit
them.
The use of such brilliant coIors in
hot weather has been strongly objected
to by those who think that women
should look cool, whether or not they
feel SO. but surely there has been
shown enough evidence of the fact that
women care nothing for the climate
and the calendar .in choosing their
clothes to convince any one that argu-
ment against red in August is futile.
One might argue also that the wear
ine of furs, the constant usage Of
capes on afternoon gowns and the
high shoe which reaches to the calf
of the leg are fashions which are in
compatible with the thermometer.
OF course they are. SO are chiffon
and tulle in winter and slippers and
openwork stockings when the snow is
on the ground; but il is beating the
air in vain to endeavor to convince
women of this.
AS for the fashion fore apes-those
singularly artistic garments which
Paris has affected for years-they
have taken on new beauty since wom-
en- realized that they form an artistic
background better than any other
garment.
The fiimsy materials which are
often used in their building keep them
from giving any actual warmth. and
there is no doubt that they convert
somewhat faded gown or one that is
not quite up to the minute in its man
agement into a most acceptable cos
tune.
The basis of their construction is the
French peasant cape which Callot and
Cheruit both brought into fashion
early last spring. This hangs in rich
folds from shoulders to hem, swing
Evening star., 1916-08-13

At a hotel in New
on a hot day. one of
members Of the Long
a checked violet and
without any trimming
lar of white organdy.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

Water that boils any length of time
becomes insipid. Let the infusion
brew three or four minutes, then
strain and cool. Serve in tea glasses
half filled with crushed ice and garnish
with a slice of lemon. Sweeten to
taste.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

ing well away from the figure. not
meeting In front. and built up across
the shoulder line in some fanciful man
ner.
Evening star., 1916-08-13
War FURRY Creates Many Novel Military Fashion

DATOTC Co incorporated Variety CosnesTh Poncho Sweater
With Indian Embroidery Another Which Shows the CentSmat
Evening star., 1916-08-13
Tea Punch.

A pleasing variation of the conven-
tionaI iced tea, and especially nice for
a betweenmeal refreshment. is tea
punch. For this make an extra strong
brew of tea, fill glasses with crushed
ice, add one teaspoonful of powdered
one or two maraschino cherries. Pour
once.
Frozen Nut Custard.
Prepare a plain boiled custard in the
proportion of one quart of fresh milk,
one cup of sugar and four eggs. or, if
eggs are scarce and high, two eggs and
two tablespoonfuls of corn starch.
When cold flavor the custard with one
teaspoonful each of almond and rose
extract. To each quart of custard add
cup of finely chopped nuts, peanuts,
almonds or English walnuts, then
freeze the mixture in the usual way.
Red Currant Ice.
Wash and pick ripe currants from the
stems, then press through a sieve until
one pint of juice is obtained. Cook one
pound of sugar in one pint of water
until thick sirup is formed When
cold add to it the fruit juice. then
freeze. Serve in sherbet cups with the
meat course at dinner.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

cut in tiny scallops and edged with
piping of the material. have wide
crush sashes Of the flag colors in thin
satin. finished with an irregular bow
at the side of the back and two long
ends that are also scalloped and plped,
each with a contrasting color.
Young girls are wearing Russian
hlouses of white muslin and silk Jersey
which have triple marine collars in
red. white and blue. This shape of
collar is in itself fashion that has
sprung into wide popularity since
mobilization took place in America.
At the resorts near New York where
Informal afternoon clothes are worn
to tea dances and country clubs young
women have taken up the idea of
wearing sport suits made up of red
Jersey skirts. blue coats. white shoes
and white hats with bands of red,
white and blue around the high crown.
Some of these hats look like Mexican
sombreros, modified to suit the girl
and the place.
Evening star., 1916-08-13

York, at lunch
the best-known
Island set wore
white gingham.
but a cape COL
Evening star., 1916-08-13
Gooseberry Cake.

Stew two pounds of green goose
berries with half pound OF sugar
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1916-10-14
LITTLE STORIES FOR BEDTIME
Peter Doubts His Own Eyes.
Copyright. 1916. uy T. w Burgess
Bv 9H0RNrON ". ECRGEsS.

~ THORNTON ". b RFESS.
II you cannot believe your own
eyes what can you believe? You
know there IL an old saying that
seeing IL believing But as Peter
Rabbit stared across at the highest
hole in the side OF the big pit in
Farmer Browns garden he actually
doubted the truth OF this In fact
he doubted IL he really saw what
his eyes seemed 10 see He blinked
them two or three times. then look.
ed again His eyes told him the
same thing that they had told him
before. They told him that Did
Mr. Toad was sitting right at the
entrance 10 that little hole halfway
between the bottom and the upper
edge OF that deep pit, with its
straight walls, and that was some
thing Peter couldn't believe. He
Just couldn't, that was all He turn
cd his head and looked ABOUT the
garden. Everything looked just as
usual there There was nothing
wrong with his eyes. Then he look
cd back Al that little hole There
sat Old Mr. Toad looking just RS
natural as possible
Was he dreaming Peter turned
his head and gently bit one of his
long hind legs. just TO make sure
that he was awake. There vas no
doubt about it, he was awake re
felt those sharp teeth, There was
nc dream about those Once more
ne looked over at the little hole.
There sat Old Mr. Toad just as be
fore
81 don't believe it," exclaimed
Peter right out loud
Don't believe what" asked
funny little voice. II was the voice
OF Old Mr. Toad.
- don't believe my own eyes"
said Peter. "or my own ears, either
for that matter
What's the matter with them ."
aslSed Old Mr. Toad
Say" replied Peter, are YOU
really Old Mr. Toad or not 90
Old Mr. Toad ohuekled tie
Chuckled for long time before h.
replied $50 far as / know I'm really
old Mr. Toad" said he II don't
think | am any one else Don't !
look natural? What's wrong abouJ
me ="
You look natural enough. re-
Piled Peter You look too natural
That's what is wrong you look too
natural, II YOU were down on the
bottom Of this PIT YOU would look
all right But YOU are up in that
hole. halfway 20 the top, and you
simply can't he there. that's ali
You can nv and YOU cant climb
so how can Won ne in that hole
You can't. and that is all there Is
about H. There's something wrong
with my eyes"
Again Old Mr.. Toad chuckled T.
vas funny little chuckle way
down In mis- throat Perhaps Won
are right. Peter" said he Perhaps
I'm not up In this little hole but ]
think am Goodness knows. I've
bad hard enough work getting here
Please don't try 20 make me think