Walker Lake bulletin. (Hawthorne, Nev.) 1883-1926, 1916-08-26

ways climbing to the brow of the
cliffs on one hand and to the noun
tainside on the other, but all within
the great walls. Many buildings stand
out prominently, churches, palaces,
monasteries, but the general impress
sion is of a crowd of old, irregular,
pinkish-tiled roofs.
Early Morning In the Market.
Now let us go and walk in the town
early in the morning. One must be
an early bird to catch the worm here,
for everyone is astir with the sun,
and business is most brisk in the mar
ket before 8 a. M; by 9 a. m. all is
over. Some of the country people
come many hours tramp over the
mountains to Ragusa market from
Herzegovina, and occasionally from
Montenegro. They start in the night
and arrive with the dawn-these stall
wart, handsome men and women, not
white and tired, footsore and weary,
but strong, gay and ready for many
hours yet of strenuous activity They
have carried heavy loads of farm prod
uce on their heads in big round
baskets, walking over sharp, loose
stones, or have driven laden ponies.
Now all their goods must be sold and
good bargains made, and then the
baskets must once more be filled with
town goods needed at the distant
farm, and by ten o'clock work, gos-
sip, refreshment must be over and
the homeward climb begun.
What manner Of men and women
are they who work so hard and look
so hardy?. They are tall, muscular,
brown, very jovial with each others
but shy of strangers, and shyer still of
a camera.
1t is crowd full of color, blue and
red predominating, but all wearing
his or her national dress, so that those
who understand know at glance
what district each comes from.
On Sundays the town was thronged
again with peasants come to spend
a gay and sociable day, first attending
mass at Greek or Roman Catholic
churches Gas many Of one as Of the
other), then endlessly strolling up
and down the main street and chat
ting volubly.
Trau Is still Medieval.
OF the many fascinating old towns
on the coast and islands Of Dalmatia
perhaps the mountaineering is Trau.
near Spalato. 1t Is scarcely changed
at all since medieval times, and though
it is full of subjects for brush and
camera, but few travellers dare test
its accommodation and, therefore,
never come to know it. It was only
by lucky chance that we found
new and clean house outside the walls
where We could picnic with enjoy
ment. Trau has no street wider than
twelve or fourteen feet. All its build
ings are of massive stone, all the
lower windows barred, its piazza
paved with great flags, its cathedral
porch one of the richest in carved
thedral was built in the early thir-
teenth century, the glorious west door
being dated 1910, and is indeed the
pride of all Dalmatia. 1t is also signed
with a Slav Raduanus," or
"Radoyan" in native speech. At Trau
the people were smaller and darker
than at Ragusa, dressed in brown
homespun, and the men wore the
queerest little red caps on the side OF
the head One cannot imagine any
headdress less useful or ornamental,
and only great antiquity can explain
its use. Towards the open sea Trau
was guarded in olden days by a cas-
tie, now in ruins.
The busy town of Spalato near by
has more history than book would
hold. There stand yet the massive
walls Of Diocletians palace, the low
er tiers being now shops and houses.
His mausoleum is the cathedral, his
temple the baptistery. The great
black marble pillars of the octagonal
cathedral are worn by worshipers Of
differing creeds, the frieze Of pagan
dancers smiling down on all alike.