The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-01-30
SPANISH VOGUE GROWS, BUT
ALL WOMEN CAN'T BE OUAIN
b DIMANoR HOYr BRAINERD.

TT hooks as though we would have
to be "Quaint" next summer. The
Russian ballet may do something
In the line of interfering with
~hat is usually called "the trend of
fashion: but IL the advance models
IN ummer frocks are to be considered
as swallows that may forecast IL they
cannot undo a summer, we are not to
be Russian. save by way of exception.
If the designers have their way,
Spain will press still closer to fashions
footlights. What has been for a year
past known as the Spanish nov
ment" has gained ground inc its
debut. One laughed at the first hip
wired skirt, as n laughed at Poiret's
first lampshade tunic. One said,
amusing. but impossible"
Models with hoops at the hip line
perslstently appeared. Then came an
ultra chic fashion fete in which sew
eral Of the famous French dressmakers
showed that they had been coquetting
with the Spanish idea, and Ianvin
came out boldly for it. Since then the
designers have found courage to launch
many picturesque and charming eve
ming frocks OF the Spanish order and
women have found courage 10 wear
them
How far the fashion will go remains
TO be seen. Not very much further,
ono is inclined to believe. The hip
hoop and swaying skirt does not adapt
itself To many types Of costume, and
after all femininity in bulk still has
its conservatism. a conservatism built
along queer lines but none the less a
deterrent.
Only a few probably will go clad
b 10 Goya, but there will be the few;
and for them the designers are build
ing up not only evening frocks but
some very charming summer frocks.
such as the blue and white muslin Of
our large group. a soft medium blue
and white stripe the material is, sheer
and crisp and fresh. The full tucked
skirt opens in front to show a narrow
petticoat Of white muslin, and at a
point Just below the widest natural
nip line a reed or crinoline Is run
through the sheer material. distendina
the skirt just a little. while below the
hoop h folds fall full and straight.
: The bodice has its Spanish note too
In the very deep tab collar of finely
embroidered white muslin which falls
from the top Of a high close collar
band. There is a knot OF dark blue
taffeta at the throat, and there is a
narrow girdle Of dark blue taffeta at
the waist. The frock is simplicity IL.
self, but daring for all that.
The Spanish note. however, one
would Call picturesque rather than
lust AaN
q%uaintness is one would find It difiicul,
to tell. The feminine vocabulary
makes II cover some distressing things,
and at Its best it is a quality that
demands much of the wearer.
A woman need not be pretty to be
successfully quaint. and she may be
beautiful, chic. dashing. yet look like
u trump when she essays the quaint
mode. There Is a certain old fash
.Oned occurrences, a lavender and rose
leaf "Reminiscences of Erandnother's
youth. a non-militant femininity about
the frock that calls forth the COM
ment, How quaint" And Of all the
difficult things that the average woman
attempts to do in the name of fash
ion. looking quaint is one of those that
may prove to be the most disastrous.
Still we will all try to be at least
quaintish 4 fashion insists. Fortu-
nately she promises to offer ample
alternatives, and the demure little
flounced and fichued and capped and
crinolined and ribboned summer frocks
are for those who like them-or for
those who feel themselves moved 10
wear them. Almost any woman likes
them.
The new models for Southern wear
have nan frocks Of this sort scat
tered among them-simple little frocks
0 dotted and sprigged and cross
barred muslin. frocks of sheer white
ribbon trimmed, frocks Of net and