davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08
collar with a washable satin aaring

collar with a washable satin aaring
rill.
The two street costumes are de-
signed one for the mother and one
for the young daughter and they
give interesting suggestions for the
hloused coats that are such pronounced
favorites. which will continue their
popularity throughout the coming
season. The woman's costume is
made with a convertible collar (which
may be worn as it is here or turned
up closely about the throat with the
fronts of the coat Tapped one over
the other to give the real Russian
effect. The young girls costume
shows cape which makes one OF
the latest innovations. The skirt is
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

in the semi-circular style and the
coat is bloused with a circular pep1um,
SO we have fare below the hips as
we'll as at the lower edge and over
the shoulders.
. Pockets are all important just now.
The costume at the extreme right
shows them inserted in curved open
ings and these openings are finished
with trimming portions. With it. is
worn blouse with a back closing,
and the back closings sound the
latest note. The sleeves too are inn
portant for fancy sleeves make the
cry of the moment. and the Aaring
frill that finishes the collar will be
becoming to most faces.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

There is great deal OF gold used as
we'll as silver but silver on the pink is
especially charming. 1t gives just the
youthful effect that belongs to the
dcbutantc's gown. White over silver
gives peculiar effect but very dainty.
A most attractive frock designed for
the school girls Christmas dance is of
silk net over silver gauze. 1t consists
of simply a full straight gathered
skirt but it is extended over the hips
by means Of wire and over this wire
is arranged a garland of silver roses
that combine silver with pale pink.
The bodice is one of the prettiest for
the school girl. 1t has a round neck
but not exaggeratingly round. 1t
gives pretty and becoming lines. The
fronts of the blouse are draped up
over the shoulders and are caught to-
gether with silver ribbon. There is
garland Of smaller flowers outlining
the neck and edges Of the drapery.
With the gown is to be worn a girdle
Of blue embroidered with, silver.
1t is very charming frock and an
essentially girl like frock. 1t would
be difficult to find more charming
one, for the combination of blue and
silver is dainty in the extreme.
Since the holidays really make the
younger contingent's season frocks
that are designed for their use are the
ones of especial interest. For the
brunette who revels in red, there is an
exquisite tulle in American beauty
shade combined with velvet that
seems ideal for Christmas day. The
skirt is that simple straight gathered
one that sometimes seems ubiquitous
yet never monotonous. In this
instance it is hung over foundation
of soft satin and is extremely full.
There are five bands of velvet ribbon,
one at the lower edge and four set at
intervals above until the uppermost
is found few inches below the belt.
At the edge of the skirt are loops
OF the velvet ribbon The bodice is
of velvet with tulle sleeves. 1t makes
a pretty round line at the front with
V at the back and there is little
turned over portion approximately
two inches in width which is edged
with tiny black fur. The bodice is
finished at the lower edge in points
and entends over the skirt. 1t is
a very handsome dress and an essen
TALLY Christmas dress and it can be
worn for the afternoon dance as we'll
as for evening,
Pale blue and brown make beau
tifu combination. One of the pref
tiest dresses seen has Just been COM
pleted Tor a boarding school girl who
expects tc dance and skate through
here entire vacation. The material
is soiree silk which is beautiful, soft
and lustrous. The entire skirt Is
cut at the lower edge in great big seal
lops an6 these scallops are faced with
little quilting OF she'll pink ribbon
with bunch Of little roses at the
center Of each. They are slightly
wired to give, the fashionable fare
and the under side is visible in the
movements OF the dance. The tllnic
is a straight gathered one with a
frilling and putting of brown tulle, and
the fulness is held in place with bands
of brown velvet ribbon which is one
inch in width and tiny little rose buds
arranged to give an exceedingly dainty
effect, The bodice is in slightly sur
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

An exquisite frock that comes from
the house Of Beer is made of chiffon
in a peculiarly beautiful shade Of
rose. Its straight full skirt is shirred
at the waist line to form little trill
above, 1t is finished at the lower edge
with a wide band of silver lace and
there is draped over it chiffon scarf
that forms succession of festoons all
around the skirt, each point OF drapery
being held by big silver rose. The
bodice is the favorite one for the
young contingent. Simple and full
with round neck finished with
wreath of silver flowers, but in this
instance it includes short straight
sleeves that have silver lace like that
which finishes the lower edge Of the
skirt. As matter Of course the foun-
dation beneath is Of shimmerng satin
in peculiar shade Of rose.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08
SIDE PORTION
OF SKIRT

must not fold it crosswise, for If the
material has figure or nap you will
find that that figure or nap runs in
one direction for one side of your
garment and in the other for the other.
You must take two lengths Of your ma
terial and lay two right sides together
before pinning the pattern into place,
taking care at the same time to see
that the figure or nap runs in the same
direction in each piece; then when you
have pinned the front side of the skirt
and the front side of the blouse into
place you cannot possibly 60 astray
right side and one for the left side OF
the garment.
Lay the portions of the skirt aside
until we consider the blouse.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

As beginning, cut an opening in the
right front of the blouse on the line of
three smaller perforations and under
face the edges Of this opening with a
strip Of the material of the gown or of
the trimming material, as you like.
Cut straight strips Of material three
quarter inch in width and undertake.
the front edges Of the blouse. These
edges are shaped and cut bias. By
sewing straight strips for the under
facing you will preserve the shape and
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

sleeves toward you while doing the
work. Bind the seams with silk
seam binding, turn them up under
the blouse, and tack to the shoulder
seams to hold them in place. Cut
lining for the collar exactly like the
outside, either of the same material or
of the trimming material, as you like;
lay the two together, the one over
the other, the right sides meeting,
and haste into place, then sew all
along on the basting line which is the
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

and mark along the line OF tiny per-
forations nearest the edge to obtain
the seams and the sewing line. Mark
the notches and the perforations with
the tailor's tacks as you always do.
then pull the two thicknesses OF the
material apart. You will notice that
for the pieces cut on the fold. the
material has been folded leugthwise,
but for the side portions Of the skirt
and the front OF the blouse it has
been made double; that is to say. you
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

w THAT Is known as the one-piece
w gown or the gown which con-
w sists of bodice and skirt joined
by means OF a belt, has been pro-
nounced favorite of the winter and
will unquestionably continue all its
smartness throughout the spring. 1t
is we'll adapted to the spring season.
for with the addition Of some slight
wrap such as a fur OF, feather boa or
scarf of some sort it can be worn upon
the street as we'll as within doors. This
one shows some very new and inter-
estinp features.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

81 i0,N ; tins season are eXCc,,-
n 'icna.y varied. hut while this is
s5 >srnpallv true there are certain
INIT rant characteristics that are
d. Ginnion ~ all. Skirts must flare.
iR sblauset- Effects are much liked.
iue biel. an, convertible collars are
sssl'se .at,i rived ones. IN the illustration
r. Ri Wn. costumes desioned for
sr.t9us needs hui those OF the grown
include Just these important tea
ne cn.piecc gown at the extreme
isfi shows one OF the prettiest yaria-
Tins Q! the high neck and long
sleeves. In the picture it is made Of
~ crHIe popl,n with velvet making the
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

row of tiny perforations nearest the
edge. Turn on the edge, haste care
fully along the, edges, and press. Then
arrange the collar over the bodice, the
right sides meeting and the center
backs and the center-fronts exactly
together. Basic the two neck edges
on the basting line, holding the collar
toward you, and stitch. Turn the
collar up and fell the lining into place
over the seam. Turn the collar over
on the perforations.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08
BODICE FOR A MISS

THIS is one of the prettiest and
newest of the evening bodices.
The low neck line, which is almost
straight, is extremely interesting for it
marks something of departure. The
arm drapery also is exceedingly grace
full and exceedingly attractive. There
is lining, over which this bodice is
arranged and for high neck, the lining
is faced to form yoke. The sleeves
may be used with either low or high
neck, if liked. On the figure, net is
trimmed with rosebud banding to be
very charming, but the bodice IS a
pretty one for silks for crepes and
the like - we'll as for the thinner
nets, faces and materials Of more
flmy sort. For daytime use, the
suggestion made in the back view is a
good one. There, taffeta is used for
the draped bodice with ail-over lace
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

A most attractive gown designed
for debutante consists Of chiffon in
graduated shades Of rose. There is
skirt of five sections. The lower skirt
is of the palest shade or rose and each
successive section is little deeper than
the last, each also is finished at the
lower edge in wave effect or in
succession of shallow scallops and these
scallops are outlined with narrow gold
trimming. 1t gives a very beautiful
color effect and also stiffens the thin
material and aids in giving the broad
lines that are SO essential in the pre-
vailing fashions. There is foundation
of pale /fose colored satin and the
outer skirt is very wide and full falling
in wonderful folds and lines. There is
a perfectly plain corsage Of taffeta
faillette exactly matching the upper
most section of the skirt. 1t is draped
at the neck edge with light rose chiffon.
Rose chiffon also makes the plaits
that form the sleeves. There is a
girdlc Of crystal beads and trimming
Of the same beads hold the frills to.
gether over the shoulders. The color
effect is charming, the methods are
simple but it took designer of won
derfu) skill to conceive the idea. Chit
fon is favorite material. 1t also is
ideal for dancing gowns and the COM
bination OF rose color and silver il
really fascinating.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

plice style forming . deep v at the
front and one at the back. Within
the edge it is finished with narrow
band Of brown velvet ribbon and over
that are little quillings of tulle with an
extra one that turns up against the
neck. The sleeves are the short pulled
ones, all of the tulle terminating in
frills and velvet bands with rose buds
q. dotted here and there. There is
very deep girdle terminating in sash
ends at the left Of the front with
big pink rose as finish.
.aessssss
A most attractive young girls dress
is of yellow satin draped with two
burnous plaits over each hip. The
bodice consists entirely of yellow tulle
over a silver foundation and between
the foundation and the tulle are ar
ranged roses, which, yelled by the
thin material give a fascinating effect
There are really wonderful effects
that can be- obtained by laying one
transparent material over another and
lace as we'll as tulle frequently is used
in that way. An exquisite gown is
made with bodice of lace over flesh
colored net while the skirt consists of
turquoise blue taFeta with an over
skirt of tulle in the same shade ar
ranged over it and caught together
at the lower edge with velvet roses
at intervals OF some twelve or fifteen
inches. Both skirts are plain and full
and hang in straight lines but there are
ribbon streamers suspended from the
belt that give very charming effect
and the bodice Of lace is extended below
the waist line to form peplum. It is
draped over the shoulders and forms
a 50 uare effect in the front and back.
Across the back there is a girdle of
roses which also serves to hold the
fitness of the side dAapery in place.
The tulle beneath the lace is very
charming and the velvet roses give I
very deep color that is beautiful.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-01-08

for the yoke and pretty short sleeves.
For the 16 year size will be needed,
1Y yards offmaterial FL inches wide,
;1Y yards SO, or yard a inches
wide, with 3 yards of rosebud banding
and e yard I8 inches wide for the
yoke, collar and sleeves.
Here is just straight, simple gath
cred skirt, yet which is exceedingly
fashionable and rendered somewhat
unusual by the introduction OF little
wire beneath the rosebud banding
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24

under-bodice Of satin. The fullness In
the sleeves Ia gathered into 4 hand Of
velvet about the wrist. to which en-
broidery 10 applied. This forms 4 SOFT
frill about the hands. The embroidery
appears again across the crepe bodice.
and II In the touch Of distinction which
places this gown In the front rank Of
things fashionable. II Ia dooe with
heavy silk thread In long stitches. and
In Ike the gown In color.
A frock Of this kind. worn with q
fur neckpiece and smart velvet hat.
is equal to the requirements Of any
afternoon function. Il may be made
Of blue velvet and worn over q gray
underskirt. In the costume pictured
the shoes are black with gray tops.
There are bags for everything. but
principally there Is the fancy bag Of
silk or velvet for shopping. Besides
these kinds, the showier bags OF bead
work and those crocheted Of heavy silk
thread and decorated with beadz are
elegant Injuries for those who have
timc and money TO put into the making
NJ them.
Shopping hags are o; moderate size
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24
TURNED To Old
FRIEND cARDul
And Soon Was Perfectly Wei and
Strut'g, And Better That, She
Had Ever Been, Says
Kentucky lady.

Narrcws Ky.--Mr~ &. r. Askfns cf
this place writes: ~Ahpns Is years
ago ! had get into ian-dewn state.
my back aeAed all Ne. iime, felt weak.
my bones seOnacd 10 asAe all over l
had weighed only To- ms when \
married.. and never bad been right ~.
bust since ! reached wamAnAocd {
but after my marriage | aaeEed 10
get worse ali the time for two years
until at this time my hruiher's
wife advised me 70 take Cariui.
Therefore, began taking n. and In a
short while | began 10 Improve, my
health and strength began TO be built
up and also my flesh.
After my frst ehtld's birth, ever two
years had passed BY. bur the
didn't appear. My husband got me
some medicine from eur doctor. which
did me no good, tho he intended n to
bring the about, for he said tho
blood was going 10 my head and eaus-
ting IL to ache. which also helped TO
make me 30 diEzy. 30 turned TO
my aid friend Cardui and began TAX
Ing II aud soon was perfectly
well and strong, gradually gained
flesh until I weighed about is6 lbs.
and was 80 stout and strong. better
than | ever had been"
cardui, used by thousands Of wom'
en-, and prescribed by physicians. must
be q good medicine. Try lt.---Adv,
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24

| knew. but II was hard to aecust0m her
self to the idea OF death and suffering
inflicted under her very eyes.
An oath from Upton made KynaH.
ton turn He saw John Wilkes. the
old engineer, step 10 the table and.
picking up the dipper. help himself
to drink OF water.
The dipper was still immersed In
the water when there came another
fiat, smacking report, followed by .
cragh as Of a stone on a board Tho
bucket broke into fragments and fell
from the table. the water dripping
down upon the floor.
Mr., Wilkes stood gazing upon the
ruin.
What the" nv calculated help
lessly.
Bullet through the east loophole."
said kynaston shortly The bucket
Was In the line OF iire- Now. you've
done It. Mr. Greaserl That's all the
water we had"
Hour after hour the defenders sat
beside their loopholes watching the
allow advance OF their besiegers. The
Mexlcans did not dare advance across
the open under the fire Of the rifles
from the house. They we're obviously
waiting for night 10 cover. their real
approach, Kynaston dreaded what
the night would bring. for there WAS
no way 10 prevent the Mexicans from
getting to close range under cover OF
the darkness Then. when the be-
slegers were within striking distance.
II would be difficult indeed for the de.
tenders TO reply to the overwhelming
intensity OF the fre that would be
opened upon the house so soon ~ day.
light should come.
While Kynas,on was cudgelinx his
brains to find some solution to the
problem he saw old Wilkes pottering
about the house, carefully gathering
up all the empty tin cans. These the
old man strung on o piece Of rawhide
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24
SYNOPSIS.
-7--

Automobile Of Miss Dorothy Upton and
friend. Mrs Pane. breaks down at New
Mexico border patrol camp. commanded
BY Lieutenant KynaSton. The two WON
en- are on way to IniI:s * Miss uptou's
father, located few rnIlss across the
Mexican border. Kynaston leaves women
at his camp while he goes with "a detail
10 investigate report Of villa gun runners.
Villa troops drive small force az Car
RAMA across border line aud they surren-
der TO KynnAton. Dorothy and Mrs Fame
stii al camp when kynaEton returns with
PRISONERS. Blind Mexican priest appears
In camp and claims internsd Mexicans
have In the spoiis brought across the line
a wonderful emerald bell stolen from n
shrine by Zapata and taken from him by
Carrabxa troops. Priest 10 searching for
the emerald In order 10 return II TO the
shrine kynaston nnds Jewel and reports
20 department headquarters Major Up
dyke appears from headquarters to take
charge OF valuables captured, Priest
and emerald bell disappear. Kynasson
slips across border with one man TO aid
Upton family surrounded by Vtliistaa.
The water supply runs short
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24

that had been brought to the house to
be made into a lariat His curiosity
thoroughly aroused. Kyuaston asked
What are you doing with that,
Mr.. Wilkes7"
Cant GIT no muleoells," said the
old man sententiously; they're all In
the stables. So I'm amin 10 string
all thesS cans on piece o. rope an
hang EN- across the front an back
roads after dark. Anybody stumblin'
against EN- II rattle EN-. an that II
give us warnin'."
That's what iva been trying TO
think OF. Now, II we only had some
watert"
There was no water. and the whole
garrison knew II, For hours the de.
tenders, sticking close to the loop
holes, knew thirst--grimy, dry-eyed
thirst that froze The smile on the lips
and cracked the corners OF the mouth.
A shot from the corral smacked
asainss the rear wall Of the house.
Instinctively the man behind the door
post took cover. A moment after the
shot was dred . man came forward
from the corral. displaying 4 dirty
handkerchief on the end Of . stick.
Mr.. Wilkes spoke sxcitodly:
Don't you do II! Anybody that
goes out hsrs now Aint rot no sense,
They'll gst you into the open and
shoot yoa down. Dunt pay no sttsn-
ton to 'sn!"
you must recognize t." said Ky.
nas.on. Come on. UPTON, we'll zee
what they want"
But little time vas given. There
came a crack from the right. and .
ballet whixsed uncomfcrtahiy close to
Kynastons shoulder. landing with .
vicious whit tn tho mass OF clay chink-
ing that formed the chimney, Down
came the hAif-baked staf With = rattle.
Mr., Wilkes, thrustins his ID
through crack between too Of the
logs, AIRED two shots In rapid success
sion
"You'li walk home, consain you. II
you 20 at ALL" he growted.
kynaston saw two OF their horses
down in the dust OF the corral. A
storm OF curses came from the edge
Of sAs clearing
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24

shopping bags, with black velvet far
In the lead. All are decorated with
steel beads. and prices ascend 40 the
beadwork grows elaborate. They range
between 1--WE and twenty-five dollars
for really handsome bags, but those en-
tirely Of coiored beadwork mount on
up TO hundred dollars
There are less expensive bags made
OF iafreta or failie silk and decorated
with narrow plsihngs OF the silk
These are usually In colors and
changeable effects. But tina handsom,
est bags are conceded to be those OF
velvet wrought with steel beads and
having bead frlnges or tassels. Many
women make them for themselves. and
they are act La the least difficult for
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24

Ing OF clothes falls to the lot Of wom-
en-. and therefore the drcssmakers'
dress has become the vogue.
In climates that permit, II Is worn
with fur neckpiece and muff for the
street. Where the weather In colder
n separate coat. long and warm. covers
the one-piece frock.
An afternoon gown OF exceptional
beauty and elegance is shown here. II
Is combination of chiffon velvet,
georgette crepe, and satin. The skirt
has an overdrape and is set on to Il
deep plated yoke OF the crepe. A
northumberland pattern in leaves IL
applied to the yelve; and crepe where
they are Joined. The bodice and sleeves
OF crepe IRE posed over a sleeveless
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24
rsuar 20 Emergencies.
Robert

The cook had beau, aud Robert
was very much interested Ia him.
"why does tina, man SIT there and
never say anythingr he asked.
HE does hs tnikin' when YOU uns
alu't there. He's me own company,
nd you're not invited" said the cook,
well. excuse me-" said Robert, who
could tnes hint. hut thought may
be you might like someone you, knsw
stay arounG II he wasn't nice ID you"
''Gowan." exclaimed the cock.
whats me two fsts ferT
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24
HeM. SKIN TROUBLES
rhst Itch, Burn and plshe0rs hy
Using cuttoura. rriai Free.

Ths Soap to cleanse and purify the
ointmAnt TN soothe and heal RAahsa.
ecssmaa. pimnles. dandruf and. sore
hands yield 10, treatment with CatiaurA
Soap and Ointment Relief 10 immedi.
ate and healment. In most cases. oom-
plsts. speedy and permanent
Free sample each by mail with Book
Address postcard, Cuticara. Dept l.
Boston. Sold everywhere. Adv.
The Dickson County herald. (Dickson, Tenn.) 1907-1979, 1916-11-24
FIX. 2zs.,
= 81


The long undervess Of a bright con.
trasting color and material to the tall
ored suit Ia seen In the new winter
models from several az the Paris
houses This vest nhows when the
coat Is opened. When the cost IN
closed the suit locks like morning o.
afternooO simple ITALICIZED suit. whss
It Is opened one slimpsss the betxht
color Of the satin. which Is af,en
adorned with embroidery. These vest,
ARE copied after Louis XIV and I4osIs
XVI models generally.