davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

trade. These French houses said they
were trying to prevent any creations
of theirs from getting into Germany or
being sold by German firms. This was
natural attitude for them to take
against country with whom they were
at war, but 1t became extremely COM
plcated when it applied to German
firms in America.
So much of the dressmaking trade in
this country is governed by firms with
German names that the situation was
tense These firms have put millions of
dollars into the French houses. The
president of the syndicate took the at
titude that no buyer could enter
French house without passport signed
by him, and this was resented by the
American houses. They declared they
would not submit to 1t. They had the
situation in their hands; of that there
was no doubt. France has only one
market for her c1othes-America-a
| if only a few Americans were allowed
to buy, where was her support to come
| from?
| The house of Callot saw the light first
and resigned from the syndicate. This
| looked omnous in Paris. because it was
thought that the American houses that
refused to accept the terms of the
syndicate of nine would turn their
orders over to the big houses that had
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

be called half -and-half effects, two
distinct colors being used in the faded
or somber fashionable tones OF the
present fancy. For instance. silver and
slate gray. dull slate gray with dull
tobacco brown. gray with a slight
tinge of blue combined with faded
pastel blue, and shades in ashes Of
roses used with neutral grays and
tans. Black Is used with everything.
Just as two colors are often combined
in one costume. so are materials in
different weights or weaves. Chiffon 10
seen combined with worsted or with
silk. Net and silk are much combined.
and SO are lace and net. Ribbons are
much used. not only as a trimming,
but as part of the costume. Entire
skirts are sometimes made Of row
after row OF wide ribbons.
Shoulder capes. sleeve caps and cir
cular-cut hounces are posed on sleeves
and shoulders of the new suit coats.
Capes also appear on separate coats.
Milliners are also making tiny Shout
der capes as matching neckpieces for
spring hats. As a rule, suit coats are
short with a raised waist line. or they
are in bolero form. sometimes falling
over a vest with a basque. BasQues are
very full. springing out well from the
hips. The line of the Jacket at tho lower
edge Is a gentle slope from the front
toward the back. Half-belts and belt
trimmings are much used. The front
closings are In great variety. single or
4 tngs. or cut away in deep circular out
| lines to show small vests
! While sleeves are usually long. there
is tendency toward very short ones
which accord with the full skirts now
In vogue. On coats there are variations
Of nat sailor collars. shawl collars and
nat cape collars. Capelike collars with
double and triple tiers are seen on q
few new designs.
Snug-htting collars, wrinkled and
very high. are used on dresses. BiaS
bands Of silk. boned and ornamented
with bows and loop ends of the same
material. are seen. Simple. high stand :
ing turnover collars are made OF stiff.
ened tulle or mousseline de sole, or a
sort of starched crepe lisse. Other high
collars stand away from the neck in a
stih, straight line. Some button
Istraight down the front in a continu-
Gus line with the bodice.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16


FROM
A
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16
FASHION CHANGES PREDICTED

TvERY variation of skirt fullness
IT.. is to be found among new dress
models. which are reproductions
OF the periods of 1880 to 1850. They
are short and full and usually much
trimmed Many are in crinoline style.
the hens having stifrened facings,
oordings or bonings. The stinening
may be at the hips or at the foot of
the skirt. or in both places.
Sometimes the fullness of the cut and
the stiffness OF the material are all that
are required to give the crinoiine ef-
feet; then. again, sometimes the petit
coat. stifened artifcially or made or
stiff tafeta or grosgrain, supports an
outerskirt of light and soft material.
Separate petticoats Of crinoline are
sometimes worn underneath the dress
skirt.
Special features of the new skirts
are oversktrt draperies, founces and
band trimmings. Most of the fuIlness
is rassed at the sides over the hips.
and there are some skirts with fuilness
everywhere. Some dressmakers feel
that II is sufficient for tho dress skirt
to be cut very full. without artificial
meane OF support or extension: others
not only cut their skirts wide, but use
add a petticoat stiffened with reed
bones. cords or crinoline facings.' Some
very fashionable petticoatS are made
entirely of black lace founcings and
trimmed with bows of pink ribbon
They are very short and very full. Less
extreme are very short and full petit
coats made of wash silk in pink. blue
or white, and trimmed deliberately with
dounceS Of maline lace.
There 10 considerable variation In
the treatment Of the figure at the
waist line A natural result Of the
full -gathsred skirt IL the normal waist
line. Just now the line is more In
straight-around than in pointed ef-
feet. When the bodice and skirt are
Joined together to form a one-piece
dress the belt Is quite narrow. or IL
may be narrow across the back and
wider In front.
Many dresses are made In what might
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16
Special Correspondence of The Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
NEW YORK, January IS, 1916.
E1HE only people who are not in
terested in the new fashions
that go south in the early win
q. ter are the southerners.
After all, the only scheme of launch
ing new things at this time Of the year
is a commercial trick which is to be
highly commended. 1t gives a chance
to stimulate trade at a moment when
II badly needs it. This season. trade
has been overstimulated, overelectri-
fed. until the leading shops have had
to Introduce new clothes and new ideas
at shorter intervals than ever before.
There have been gossip. battle, rumor
and actual hostility in the field of in
dustry concerned with the making of
fashions, so that the public as well as
the merchant has been keyed up to a
situation that has been as interesting
as a film of moving pictures.
Consequently, there has been no lack
of excitement and advertisement. and
therefore clothes have melted away
from shops like dew in the sun You
cannot move about among those who
sell or make clothes without hearing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

material. If they have not the effect of
floating clouds they lose their point.
One of the most effective of these
frocks has all its layers cut in points.
those below the knees being weighted
by silver roses; fesh-colored chiffon is
substituted for satin an underslip.
There is another smart evening gown
of white net which is slightly trimmed
with fur and touched off with jeweled
bodice. There is a strong rivalry in
evening gowns between the bodice or
jeweled net or bullion lace which goes
, straight under the arms and the rather
prim little bodice. that matches the
| skirt and goes over the shoulders. The
latter is especially well carried out in
frocks of pink and blue taffeta.
And writing of white reminds me
that turbans of tiny white feathers
have returned to fashion. They have
evidently taken the place of the toQues
of flowers that Paris always sends to
the Riviera the last of January.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

nile garland of small pink and blue
roses is attached to stiff stems Of
green velvet, each rose separated by a
Single velvet leaf and each leaf attach;
r sa Morning glories arc form
I'd Of gold gauxe painted in delicate
shades Of mauve and with leaves Of
green. and mapve-co oi,n l.. c ~
Velvet roses in pink, mauve and blue
have leaves of black chantilly lace,
edged with chenille. or black net edged
with let. The stems are covered with
chenille or Jet, according to how the
leaf is outlined. Orchids are used in a
single flower with sprans OF maiden
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16
Cleaning White Lace,

ELICATE laces which have become
~ soiled may be cleaned beautifully
by squeezing them through skim milk
to which little bluing has been cdd-
ed. They come out of their bath look
ing like new and are just the right
dried and ironed between cloths over Q
Turkish towel pad.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

fashion put gray and yellow together,
and nearly all of these dance combina-
lions owe their popularity to their in
PRODUCTION in dance gowns of tulle:
The latter are still very much liked.
and the majority of new ones are built
along these lines, some of them daring
the combination of gold and red tulle.
Although tulle is the word commonly
used, the fabric in these gowns is real
ly white silk net. 1t has really a
strong mesh, perishable, though, as it
looks, and it renders good service if
enough of it Is used in one gown.
There must be layers upon layers of it,
and the favorite way of finishing it is
to put a picot edge on each layer.
The expensive part of these silk net
gowns Is that one cannot be sparing of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

hundred models to this country which
were bought by the shops at enormous
prices and Immediately copied and sold
by them. This gave active impetus
to new trade.
The situation then leaped into
rivalry between production and con-
sumption. This is the first rule of bust
ness, and nobody was more delighted
than the public. who really received
the full benefit of it. New gowns, new
ideas. new colors, followed on each
others heels like a flock of sheep
There was a trilogy of reasons for this
demand for new things in America and
plenty of money to buy them.
Heretofore Paris mourned the fact
that she had to prepare fully 1000
gowns semi-annually for the inspec-
ton of American merchants. Out of
this immense production hundreds of
gowns were left on the hands of the
creators. Between these seni-annual
exhibitions Paris had to supply the
whole continent of Europe with
clothes. also a goodly part of South
America. in addition to private custom
in North America.
She reaped millions monthly for do
most capacity. 1t was too much to ask
of one city. even if that city is the
source Of all fashion inspiration.
This was changed in the twinkling of
first day of August. 1914. Paris has had
the leisure which 1t craved. While it
held the American trade and became
sure of its semi-annual work, its need
for production almost ceased with
these two exhibitions.
The women of Europe have no time to
spend on fashions and no money to
spend on clothes. The thousands of
Paris. or passed to and fro over the
ocean like shuttles. stayed in America
and bought their clothes in America.
Here and there. Paris had a few gowns
wealthy Americans who went to Paris
for war relief work saw their chance
to help the sewing women by ordering
their usual quota Of clothes.
But these were mere drops in the
bucket compared with the full ocean
that sweeps into Paris throughout the
seasons. This paucity of work. at
time when money was desperately
installment Of clothes which Paris
evolved in her leisure moments and
which are really exquisite. 1t shows
what Worth and Poiret have always
conterded-that Paris is always at her
best when she works under inspiration
and not compulsion.
This is not true of talent and skill;
it Is only true of genius. The former
need compulsion in order to bring
them into flower; the latter needs
leisure to fulfill its ideals. Expression
itself Is compulsory to genius.
Added to all this commercial activity
introduced n
way of a battle between the French
syndicate and the American buyer. BY
the time this goes to press peace may
be declared through the dissolving of
the syndicate or the resignation of it's
president, Paul Poiret.
The formation of nine of the greatest
houses in Paris into syndicate of de-
tense was aimed, primarily, at German
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

hair fern. In addition to the natural
shadings, there are those in cerise or
bright coral.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-01-16

been excluded, such as Beer. Georgette,
Doeuillet, Bernard, Martial ct Armand,
Drecoli and a half dozen smaller houses
such as Arnold, Germaine, Mauer, La
ferriere. Green, Weeks. to say nothing
of the big English houses of Redfern
and Lucille.
All these houses are favorites in
America, and with Callot at their head
they represent formidable list of COM
petitors against the remaining eight
houses. 1t is not difficult for even the
layman to comprehend the complica-
tions that arise through this fight. Next
month, If by that time the syndicate
has not dissolved or lessened its Sc
verify, Paris will be the center of one
of the most interesting sartorial fights
in it's history. How these eight houses
can be blind to the fact that they will
lose thousands of dollars at time
when they are praying for money to
keep their workers from starvation is
a question that annoys and irritates
those who are SO happy to do every
thing for France; and by the way, if
Jeanne Lanvin has really left the
syndicate 1t leaves only seven houses.
To go back to the original paragraph
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29
PERSONALS.

Mr.. Sam Blum is spending the day
in New Orleans on business.
Prepared Horseradish and Paprika
at DYER-LEHMANN'S.
Mr.. Harry Aicklen of New Or
leans was here today.
Heinz Crabapple, Current and
Grape Jellies at DYER-LEH-
MANN'S.
Mr.. A. G. McLavy of Baton Rouge
is here today installing Western
Union clocks in the Evangeline and
the New Theatre.
The Morgan City High School will
observe Thanksgiving Day with a
holiday.
A fine and complete line Of Tooth,
Hair and Clothes Brushes, at Belan.
ger Drug Co.
Frank E. Bernard, Jr., of New Or
leans was q visitor here Tuesday.
II you fail to get your Review re-
gularly, please call 27S and the mat
ter will BE promptly remsdied.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29

Mr.. Rene Nicaud of New Orleans
was in the city Tuesday.
For Tapioca ring DYER-LEH-
MANN'S.
Mrs. S. H. Clements of Lake
Charles returned to her home yester-
day after a few days here with her
son, Mr.. Burl Clements, and wife.
MONEYS self-filling Fountain
Pens with radium point-Guaran-
teed 20 years with repairs, if neces-
sary. Peoples Drug Co.
The conservation boat, Opelousas,
in charge of Commissioner W. S.
Holmes, put in at local docks here
last night for fuel and provisions.
The Opelousas is on an inspection
tour of the local coast line. They
continued on their voyage this morn
ing.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29
THANKSGIVING CLOSING

The following merchants have a
greed to close their places of bust
ness on Thursday, November So
Thanksgiving Day at l p. m.
Toerner & Young,
r. f. Brieter,
Jolley Bros,
Dave Kahn & Co.,
Dyer-Lehmann & Co.
John Dalton Co.,
j. F. Bass.
The Morgan City Review.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29
THE THANKSGIVING
FOOT BALL GAME

An interesting game is looked for
ward to by the School Football fans,
when NJ. c. H. S.will meet the ST.
Martinville High School Team on the
local grounds, on Thanksgiving Day.
ST. Martinville has fast team,
and recently held New iberia to a
small score, although New iberia had
previously held Boys High to the in
significant score of Z to O. The Nor
gan City High Team has not been
scored on yet, and expects to mainy
tain its record.
New tricks are being practiced
constantly, especially in the way of
end-runs. We are given to under
stand that the St. Martinville Team
depends largely upon bucking the
line, as they have very heavy full
back
Morgan City's lineup is the same
as in the Jeanerette game. viz
Himel, Center.
Toerner, Right Tackle,
Coburn, Right End.
Hamilton, Right Guard,
Granata, Left Guard,
Egle, Left Tackle,
Bourgeois, Left End,
Dyer, Quarterback,
Moncrief, Left Halfback,
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29
THE DOROTHY OF
WISCONSIN HERE

The Dorothy, forty-foot launch.
of Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, put in
here yesterday after thirty-day
trip from her starting point. She car
ries Captain G. T. Goodwin, Mr.. J.
N. Wells and their families. Her
route was down the Mississippi from
Lake Geneva to Plaquemine, hence
thru Louisiana waterways and canals
to this city. The trip has been made
by them for pleasure and for the
purpose of seeing south Louisiana
with a view of locating permanently
in this section. Captain Wells states
that Morgan City is the best town
they have come to along the southern
waterways and is attracted by the
city and its location and industries.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29
House for Rent
With electric light
water and sewer con-
nection. Phone 2.
J. E. B A S >

There is more Catarrh In this 49,
Of the country than an othef =, n ~
put together. ana loI nnctoi1 pFt
.pe osfa 10 local Il remedies and BY .s s
" failing to cure with local -
local disease. greatly Influenced need g. =
stitutional conditions ana .ns HsIrS
quires constitutional .w.aH
chen1y & oo cos. Toledo. ONO: is ,ss
a au'i' acts ,hrG the Blood on nth ,he .sssi
Surfaces Of the System system, One On y ~
Dollars reward is offered ,or esN
that Halls Catarrn Iu. ..,r.on ~
Send for circulars and test'moh
~ CHENEY & CO.. Toledo o.
Sold by Druggists. go
Halls Family Pills lor eohs"I
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29

Thanksgiving Services will be held
tomorrow at the resbyterian church
at 10 a. m. Rev. Mclean of the
Presbyterian Church will preach the
Thanksgiving sermon.
Messrs. C. r. .Brownell and L. j.
Bass will make talks at the Union
Thanksgiving service tomorrow at
the Presbyterian Church.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29

We have just received a carload
of sewer pipes, and can make close
prices on your work. We are agents
for STANDARD" Portland Cement
and will quote you prices in car lots
and less than car lots at attr2 tive
prices at Dyer-Lehmann Co.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29

Regulate the bowels when they
fail to move properly. HERB1NE is
an admirable bowel regulator. It
helps the liver and stomach and res
torres q fine feeling Of strength and
buoysncy. Price Soc. Sold by Belan-
ger Drug Co.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29

Rev. C. C. Weir left today for
visit to Bunkie, La.
Fresh nuts Of all kinds, soc per
lb, at DYER-LEHMANN'S.
The Morgan City daily review. (Morgan City, La.) 1916-1920, 1916-11-29

See our display of jeweIry at low
prices. Xmas. presents. Peoples Drug
Co.
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1916-01-01

sides, thus causing it to stream upward.
You may ask why the heated air does
not flow out at the bottom of the
chimney if il is pressure that makes 1t
move. The reply is that the pressure
is exerted from all sides, at bottom as
well as at top. In fact, there is a
slight superiority OF pressure at the
bottom. depending for its amount upon
the height of the chimney. Fifteen
pounds TO the square inch is the mean
or average pressure Of the atmosphere
al the earth's surface, but in proper
ton as We ascend the pressure grad
ually decreases.
Your final question is apparently
based upon the idea that the atmos-
phere must be confined inside Of some
thing in order to be subjected to pres
sure. This would correspond with the
notion that has sometimes been ad-
vocated that We are not living on the
exterior Of a globe, as we think, but
SHELF But there is no difficulty in
comprehending the pressure Of the at
mosphere, even though the air lies in
the surface OF a globe. with open. IN
impeded space all around it
ATMOSPHERE PRESSURE DUE
To ATTRACTION OF EARTH.
The atmospheric pressure is due to
the same force which gives weight to
solid bodies, VIZ, gravitatiOn, or the at
traction Of the earth, which always acts
in the direction of the earth's center
The atmosphere consists of a certain
quantity Of oxygen, nitrogen and a few
other invisible gases. mixed together
in nearly fixed proportions. Every
particle of these atmospheric gases is
drawn toward the earth's center, and
consequently has weight
The weight Of a single particle is al
most enthusiastically small, but the
combined weight of all the air parti-
cles composing the atmosphere is about
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1916-01-01

TASHINGTON. D. c.. Jan. IL
I" have discovered a new world
It is the world Of Alaska It
belongs to you and to me and is a part
of Uncle Sans big farm We have
had IL about so years and have never
realized the wealth under our feet
The discovery, on my part, reminds
me of the Hindu who was devoured
with a great lust for dimonds. He lived
on a small farm upon the plateau OF
Deccan. He sold his farm that he
might hunt for these precious stones
He travelled all over the world and
spent a life time in the search AT
LAST he returned home TO learn that
the diamond mines of GOlcOnda, the
richest of the then world. had been
found on his own little farm And, so
for almost a lifetime, I have Travelled
through foreign lands seeking strange
things to write about and now f1nd
the strangest things right here in my
own country and almost under my
feet
Has Is Acres for Each L. $. Family.
Alaska contains more than One-siXth
OF all the land under the American
flag. It has so much that II il were
ali divided equally among the citizens
Of the United states there would pc
Is acres for every family and leave
some 70 spare. Alaska is almost three
times as big as Germany, France
Austria-Hungary. or the Spanish
peninsula II Is Olit-NlllE NAAel--
the Atlantic states from Maine 10
Florida. larger than all OF our terri
cory north of Tennessee and east OF
the Mississippi river.
II Alaska could be lifted up and
dropped down upon the main body OF
our country, with its eastern end touch
ing the Atlantic ocean at Savannah,
the weSternmost end would be in the
Pacific ocean beyond Los Angeles the
territory begins not far west OF Los
Angeles and ii extends Uncle sam
dominion almost to Japan When
was at Nome, I was 5000 miles west
of San Francisco; and the mainland
of Alaska is less than 40 miles from
Siberia at Bering Strait The island
Of Attn. at the end Of the Aleutian
chain. is not far from Alaska. From
north to south Alaska reaches almost
as far as from Canada to Mexico
Is n World in its Variety.
This mighty territory is a world IN
the variety of its lands and waters II
is country Of seas, lakes and rivers,
and of almost as many islands as the
empire of Japan. II has a vast conti-
mental mainland, with mountains ana
valleys. rolling plateaus and great
lowland plains I Travelled thousand
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1916-01-01
Frank C. Carpenter

Copyright. 1915. BY Frank
6. Carpenter)