The Prescott daily news., 1916-05-12
ORCHARD AND GARDEN CROPS
No. 6. Orchard and Garden Crops. By J. $. Knox, Extension Horticultur-
 ist, University of Arkansas.

!
 Plan of Garden-Few of us realize the importance of some definite plan to follow in our garden work. We plant the garden in a haphazard fash ion, without any reference to the kind of plants. time they are to oc- i cupy the soil, and the space they re- quire in growing Gardens that are planted in the above way can never give as good results or as much pleasure as the ones that are carefully planned before the planting season comes on, and then carrying out the plans made. There is generally time during the winter when the av- craze farmer is doing very little, and this is the proper time to make a plan for the garden that is to be planted during the spring and summer.
 Arrangement of Plants-The plants should be arranged in the garden ac- Cording to the length of time they are to occupy the soil, as well as accord ing to the kind of culture they re- quire. Plants like asparagus, rhubarb and the various kinds of berries gen of years, and for this reason they should be placed to one side (prefer- ably the north) of the garden. They are then out of the way in cutivating the annual plants which are not such high growers generally. After the perennial or long season crops have been cared for, we may begin the planting of the short season crops as soon as the season opens. Plants like beets, radishes, lettuce. peas. cab bage, etc, can be planted very early in the season. and as soon as danger of frost is past we can plant the ten der vegetables, such as tomatoes. egg plant, peppers, sweet corn. squashes, cucumbers, etc.
 Companion Cropping - Sometimes. especially where the space is limited it is desired to get as many different kinds of vegetables as possible from that small area. In this case we may make use of what the gardeners see k consists in growing two or more crops in the same row at the same time or of planting other vegetables in be- tween the other rows. For example if We have cabbage planted in rows three feet apart and eighteen inches apart in the row, We may put d hill of lettuce between each hill of cabbage and then SOW row of radishes or tur- nips between the row These crons could be removed before a great deal of damage had been done to the cab base, and in this way we have threo kinds of vegetables where only one is commonly grown This, however is very hard or exhaustive on the soil and so heavy fertllizing is essential
 Succession Cropping - Here is where so many of our gardeners fall down on the gardening business ev- cry year. If we expect to have fresh vegetables all through the summer we must make different plantings of the same vegetable. For example. we plant crop of beans in latter April. thiiN NiNF' p'SAli Ao bthi III June. anu probably last for three weeks or a month and then all Is oyer: but if we make one planting in latter April and another about three weeks later. and so on through the growing season. we can have beans for several months that have been picked from the vines in our own garden. With some of the early maturing vegetables we can grow one crop and harvest 1t and then grow second crop on the same soil. but this method is not to be recom- mended if it can be avoided, because of the increased chance of the last crop being attacked by disease and in- sects more severely.
 Use of Hot Beds.-The farmer who desires to grow his own plants should construct hot bed similar to the one described in Farmers Bulletin 255. The hot bed is especially useful in starting plants like cabbage, tomatoes, egg plants, peppers. etc. and after the plant shave been grown it can still be used as cold frame. The ma nure used in constructing the hot bed will still be good to use as a fertil.