The sun., 1916-12-17
DRESSMAKERS HIT
BY NEW PARIS EDICT
Banning Of Dec0llete at Opera
FOrerunncr Of Greater
Economies.
FALL1ERES TO THE FORE
Great Exempler Of Simple Liv-
ing Will Be Head Of Eco
nOmic Council.
FALLIERES TO THE FORE
Special corresposlescs TO The srx.

Special C~orvespo~lescs 10 The SrN.
PANS, Dec. 1T was many a long
month after the wal had begun before
could get rid Of the feeling that
her ally. England. had not yet realized
.lwenty-elght months Of dcrce struggle
or rather Paris. Is beginning to
ask herself II she has as yet realized fully
and completely what It means. The awak-
ening process began about a fortnight
ago. being started by what appeared a tri-
matter. An official note was issued
nobody would he admitted into the
four theatres that receive a State grant
Opera. Opera Comique, Theatre Fran
Gals and Odeon) until the end Of the
war. unless dressed In ordinary city
clothes. ANY other attire would be
vigorously refused admittance."
This ukase was issued BY NJ. Daiimier,
who. as Under Secretary Of State for
the Fine Arts Ministry. Is the supreme
head OF those four theatres. The immc-
date cause of its being issued was
reported TO he the scene at the reopen
Ing or the Opera. a few days before.
when some men had ignored the mana
gerial notice tina evening dress would
not be exacted. and many women had
come In low recked evening gowns and
wearing blazing Jewels.
Even . Walter Held Up.
As n ixtter of fact most Of the men
We're foreigners TO whom the Opera and
full dress are synonymous, indeed the
~houlevardiers insist that the only Paris
ian present In evening garb was the
worthy Prefect of Police. Evening dress
lfor men) was always the exception,
even before the war. at the other three
state theatres. \. few days afterward
n man In evening dress was stopped as
he entered the Opera. Excuse me-" he
exclaimed. II am In my working clothes.
! am a head waiter"
The order was a blow TO the CHIEF
industry OF Paris-dressmaking--as IL
discouraged women from ordering new
gowns. This trade had recovered from
the early effects OF the war and was
working overtime. not merely making
dresses for export. but for home use.
]; Immediately set itself to devise a new
form of gown which would pass 40
"tenue de WILLIE ,town dress) and yet
be fit 10 wear in the evening.
The controllers (the ticket inspec-
tors ut tho entrance to n theatre, are
going 20 have a hard time deciding what
amount OF low neckedness makes a
gown an evening dress. 1t IL pointed
out that NJ. Deschanel, the Speaker In
the Chamber of Deputies. always pre-
sides In evening dress. and the question
is asked II he does not como under the
order.
Suggestion to Close Opera.
Tho order was accepted quietly. n.
every order that Is due to the war is ac-
ccpted. hu, the logical French mind an.
NOT help asking whether II Is the dress
or III" entertainment which ought to bt
barred and II any ster should h. taken,
should II not be. to close all places OF
entertainment: rather than decree IN
what garb they should bc attended.
But this sumptuary ordinance wa.
soon lost sight OF In n further decree
In order to save electric power and Goa
tfor the sake OF murition factorics) al
theatres, concerts, circuses. music hall,
n cincinas are to be closed one night
n week. The theatres have chosen FL.
day lalthough one would have expected
Monday. always a dull day for theatrcs)
the cinemas Tuesday and the others
Wednesday.
This closing once a week represents n
loss to tho Assistance Publique ,Poo,
kelief), which collects 10 per cent. or
all entertainment tickets Of $780, 900
year. Incidentally II may be noted tina,
Gounod's Faust" Is still proving 10 h.
the Operas best drawing card. Its re,
ceipts the first time given after reopen.
ing were the best OF the season, ovei
1927. The concert and music hall.
have pctitioned to close at 10 40 insteat
of II i. NJ. each night instead of closin,
one night. arguing that the saving o
lighting would thus be greater and tina.
the, employees would thus not lose an en-
tire days pay. but as yet their reques
has received NJ reply.
Food Regulation RumOrs.
But after all these new regulation
affected only the ~supernui,ies OF life
they did not touch the necessities. Then
just as II these regulations had been pu
out as mere ~feelers. more serious step
were taken. The rumor spread that
National Economies Council was to ~
created to propose means Of reducing IN,
country's outlay and regulating its foo,
supply. II was further said that al
shops were to he closed at 8 r. NJ. bu
this proved an exaggeration.
The police order, after explaining tina
II was due to a wish to saw factorie
working for the national defence from
any possible shortage Of electric or "a
power. petrol or gasolene. decreed tina
after November Is no shop should us
electrical. gas or gasolene lighting afte
6 =. NJ. except those whose principa
and normal object was to sell food.
Thus shops were allowed to use othe
forms of lighting. such as candles. IL the,
wished to remain open after that houi
Candy shops. confectionery shops an
afternoon tea rooms We're not ranked a
food slops. but drug stores, hair dresser
and tobacco shops were to be able I
continue their usual lighting. The ligh,
Ing order was TO be suspended on Sat
urdays and on tho eve of public holI
days. Cafes and restaurants were
close at $3.50 r. NJ In the earliest day
Of the wal they closed at s. then at .
with $3.50 for restaurants. and then a
10 80, 30 that the new regulation dc
prives them Of n hour.
News Came a. = shock.
It II impossible to deny that the ne,
regulations. or rather hat the fact tina
new regulations were necessary. csps
cialiy when It was freely said tina
among the economies would be one II nc
two days a week without meat, cam
as a shock to Paris. But 4 few day
before the new national loan had bee
issued. the loan Of victory. without
hint that more was wanted than none
to keen the army properly supplied,
Every n knew that the cost of Twin
had increased enormously. but no or
had been deprived Of anything. Certai
articles. like sugar. had been hard I