Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-05-17

NATIONAL BOOT AND SHOE
MANUFACTURERS AssocIA-
TON:
GENTGEMEN:
The shoe manufacturing bust
ness is confronted with many seri-
Gus problems, and it is difficult to
single out those that are the most
serious --".
Prices of all materials that en-
ter into the construction of shoes
tfrom leather to findings) are
soaring, and the underlying causes
with reference to most of these
materials. particularly to leather,
may be laid to the restrictions in
the supply of raw materials.
"Calf' offers a fine illustration of
the situation. At least 20 per
cent of the calf skins tanned in
the United States are imported.
and between so and SO per cent
of these come from countries that
have placed an embargo upon
their expectation. The en-
barge might just as we'll start
from those countries permitting
expectation, from the difficulties
surrounding their shipment. .
y A large sale Of calf skins in the
hair was made to a large Boston
leather manufacturer this week.
the prices paid being as follows:
9 to 12-pound skins, $3.50 each.
F.. { to 9-pound skins, $500 each.
Calf skins. weighing less than
Z pounds, 1855 each. .
This makes the cost of calf
skin in the hair 33 cents per foot
for the small, light skins, and 80
cents per foot for the skins meas
uTing 9 to IL feet. such as are
used in mems shoes. Adding an
average cost Of 9 cents per foot
for the manufacture of these skins
into leather and the additional
cost on the table in the leather
store of over AZ cents per foot for
colored calf skins, and this is the
leather that must be bought by
shoe manufacturers after present
supplies are used. .-
There is no relief in sight from
still higher prices for calf shoes,
both black and colored, and the
substitutions that are offered will
net prove satisfactory or compare
with the real article. Colored
calf skins or side leather which
has been snUffed and then ''paint-
ed" have never been satisfactory
to the wearer and are only make
shift at best.
The prediction made three
months ago that a good grade of
mems calf shoes would cost 80
cents Fer pair more for fall de-
livery than the shoes delivered
last fall has been demonstrated
by the experiences of the past few
weeks .-
The Increase in the cost Of sole
leather and upper feathers still
continues, and in Boston yesteT-
day Union and Oak sole leather
was selling at So cents per pound;
Colored Chrome Calf at Al and AZ
cents per foot; Black Chrome
tvelour and gun metaD at AZ and
AZ cents per foot. This is for
leather to come from hides and
calf skins purchased on today's
market "~.
There is no probability so far as
it is d,sCussed among business
men and in the press, that the war
in Europe will end this year; and
should it end. the negotiations for
peace will, in the light of past ex-
periences, take fully six months
@ There is nothing in sight to show
that manufacturers supplies or
labor will be any cheaper for the
next II months. New standards
Of value will be established and
maintained, and the old retail
prices must be forgotten. ~,
The educational campaign that
is being carried on through the
trade journals has been effective
in the giving of information to re-
tailers that enables them to appre-
ciate the situation. but the retail
ers Can hardly be brought to reali-
zatiCn of the strength of the shoe
market today, or the strong posi-
ton that leather for shoes ocep-
pies in the market. II has been
for the past season. is now, and
will remain fer some time sell
eTS' market. ..
- Very truly yours, ...-
IT,. JOHN S. KENT, -.-.....
.....- .-.-@' .--.. President. +