The Hawaiian gazette., 1916-04-18

and scrambling for coppers thrown
hem by the troops. Upstream the
Biblical tradition holds. The second
tight we moored by a dNmed shine
sihouetted among the palms in the
clear starlight. One could not help
moralizing upon the new lap we were
pursuing in the continuity of hi tory,
when one heard LowIander of Pc tn
point out the Building to his mate as
4" Yon corner hoose."
Navigation Dinieult
Navigation above this place until
one reaches Amara, where the stream
widens, become slow and difficult. One
passes the Narrows and the Devils Fl
Row. and the river makes sudds n twists
and turns. The physical features of the
.ountry are familiar to our India
troops. The villages semble those O.
he Puniab, on the northwest frort er
Nalnt Saith might be a quart Of D ra
.Ismail Khan. The sam slOping mul
walls enclosing the haveli or court "a !;
for vegetation the date palm, with an
occasional null errv or wilIOw fed bv
irrigation channels. A few of the houses
are of sun-dried brick, but there is Al
,ntire absence of ornamental on save in
he two-storeyed hal"oHied buildings of
he merchants and officials on the river
front. where the woodwork is lat 'ced
ana fretted.
Some of the riverain Arabs are hand
some, he continues, and have a certain
hawk like dignity and grace of eur
iage. For headgCar thew wear the
'.efieh and aagql The kefieh, check
red cOtton cloth, generally Of blne
md white pattern, is"kert in its p'a"e
Nv the aagal, a double plat Of goats
hair
Amara Lively Town
Describing Amara, thirty one m los
Upstream from Kalat Saith, the most
considerable town between Pa RI aNi
oagdnd he saws. it is now tePming with
tribesmen and all the hotsam and jet
lam which follows in the wake of the
var The British flag flies over h,
Turk al la"racks, and the British
Tommy, seated on n bench in his blue
hospital suit, surveys the TigrS with
he same cOmplacPncy as he watc Q l
he writers Of thu Nla, s inc or Thames.
The LAMAR is sla"ious aud stone
'oofcd Some thirtvfvP feet in height.
as in Bagdah, aud the r'afts are local
Zed, as in all the cities Of the East. At
very turning from the min thorough
| are the street names are inscribed IN
| Cn1lish besides the A able cha "actrrs.
| There is an opportunity here for an
| maginative touch, but one fnIs no
| nenclaturr viii h is truly british. The
Book al Casnr"eu Of the Arabs has be
| .omo nlniu Butche = Street y the
SOCK nj. Khaharcen, "Pakcr's Street
| 'Sa npc~ Street, "PoutO0n Street,
| Soap Street, pro- lain th" needs o.
| he hour, AS if the scrb" of llarUuN-al-
EaRchih had never existed.
Arabian Nights Scenes
Every fftv ya:ds o. 50 there is an
| Arab cafe, whc~p the IcuiZenS Of the
ann, h 0l"d in their kcfch. squat on
| lirh backed wooden benches and eX'
| hargr cultural cOU III 'EtS on the usI
less Of tn" hour. S,mr play dom n res
| others sit and 9 we into vacancy. Thes'
| lark taverns are crowded. 1t il at
Amara that tn caravan route from
| DiZful in Pc s'a meets the TiVris, and
he town is the Headquarters Of the ga
cans. A group Of Kurds passes in the
street with the high hulFous hats OF
"ough felt, their smooth locks hanPin2
free and clipped about their ears Like
he mahsuda or powinlahs Of Afghan
stan. jew in his Turkish fez DO nj
ound with a kehrh is ProcIa ming &c
an Arab policeman. now a servant OF
the British Raj, that he has beer
obred OF piece of silver. A scholarly
'oOk ing Pcrsian from nizfnl is apprais
ing a skein of wool at tn" opposite
tall. A wild-ryeI Bukhtiari planre'
nervouslY into the cafe aud hurries n
and threading these new caught, suler
people, there passes the proud. well
groomed figure of the NoHng British
sui altern, uprn when authority sit'
lightly, and whose competence to han
lie the tribes Of the desert or Tho
mouutnincer is paIpabIe at a g'ance
back view or front, down the whole
length of the street.
In the meanwhile Amara is IA mere
ripple in the Meso"Otaminn bnrkwater
Ahead of ny, 80 miles up the river, a"'
the Turks, We c pushing on our ole
paddlrbox, to he in time for the ud