The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25

friil and flare with n will when she
chooses. and Callot still gives sanction
to straight lines. as do many Of the
other French houses, though they are
inclined to limit such effects to the n
piece utility frocks. There Is Il very
perceptible insisteuce also upon the
plated skirt. and Tor the tailored suit
intended to do duty on through the
autumn such a skirt Is at the moment
a safer guess than any form of the
circular or fulled skirt.
Innumerab bic women. while resign
ing themselves To increased quantities
OF material. have realized that the
faring and :ulled skirts were vastly
u~nbecoming to them and have vigor-
ously protested. Plated skirt effects
are an excellent compromise and their
increasing vogue IL easily understood.
Even the very sheer materials are
often finely plated from waist to hem
and sometimes fall with but little Hare,
although there are organdy frocks
plated IN TITS fashion and so fulled
in at the waistband and held out by
hillowing underskirts that they are
very far indeed from straight lines.
Tie skirt cut straight or compare
lively straight. plated into the waist
band enough to give ample fitness nj
the bottom, but with no pressing of the
plaits. is often seen and in soft ma
teriai is graceful and pretty: but the
wearer must have the plaits very care
fully posed II she is not slim.
In spite OF the in~disputable feeling
for straight lines. those lines are. how
ever. the exception. and throughout
this summer at least min VI OF ten
, OF the modish frocks will flare widely
in the skirt. What Will come with the
autumn one can only guess.
And to go back TO that matter OF
summer silks. the checked and plaided
taretas In pink and white are made
up into attractive frocks OF an exceed
ingly frivolous sort. frilled and shirred
and full and usually relieved by uHier-
sleeves. collars. petticoats. SC, Of
white muslin. the whole having a de-
l~lghtfully new fashioned. old fashioned
air. one frock in such pink and white
pla.ded taffeta had only its collar and
sleeve frills OF white finely emhroid-
cred antique looking bat!ste-Nh!l 10y
way Of substitute fSr n white petit
coat It's full skirt displayed n deep
bottom band Of black velvet, very ir-
regular in lower line. and appearing
from under a group % narrow fringed
taffeta ruches set on the skirt IN deer
points. repeating the pointed line o'
the skirt bottom. There was a touch
Of black velvet at the side ~ the waist
line. too. and the note o! black was
distinctly chic.
blue and white. green and white
yellow and white are shown In The
CHECKED and plaided taffetas, but pink
and white is first choice. Indeed. pink
Is first choice in everything light hueC
this summer. Pink underwear. pink
frocks. pink millinery. /. IL n pini
season. il one cia-,-- as pink al III,
shades from flesh 90 bright or deer
rose and berry and shrimp
The pink organizes are partici.
larry deleciah.e. ana. toy The way
organdy is once more the darling OF
many OF the Partisan fashion makers
notably Paauin. In delicate tones ant
exquisite quality this material Is
fashioned INTO the aries. and da.nties'
Of full. frivolous frocks. Net and lace
and wolfe de sole and hatisto are softer
more easily hand ed. but ursardy hat