davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-05-18
Plated Skirts of Striped Materials are Smart

THE bright days that we are
having just now. or the bright
= days that are allowed us between
the grey ones, are so delightfully."-
suggestive of the warm weather and
of outdoor life. it is not surprising that
the sports costumes should be LARGELY
exploited and largely discussed. I'm
doubtedly, they are of exceptional
Importance this year and of exceptional
charm. A great many verv beautiful
materials are used for their making
and the winter resorts have set the
example of sports costumes that are
at once practical yet essentially
feminine and attractive in effect If
only we may be spared the exhibition
of the sports costume worn upon the
street. to the matinee ard for similar
occasions. all will be we'll but here in
New York, at least we have a big
public who admires sports clothes
without belonging to the circle that is
at home in the country clubs and uoon
the golf links. consequently the sports
costume is worn out of place since It
cannot be worn in place II New York
is to stand as an example for the rest
of the Country, the word Of warning
cannot be spoken too earnestly The
sports costume is desirable onlv for
morning wear at the summer resorts
where sports will be en;oved as y
looker-on. if not as participant and
for the actual INDULGENCE thereof
While it would hardly seem necessary
to make such an utterance. exnerience
goes to show that costumes worn out
Of place have vulparized manv
fashion and the sports costumes are
too attractive and too desirah'e to be
allowed to meet with such fate
There has been some little talk to
the effect that the Jersey silk was not
altogether practical for skirts but i
seems of too liqht weight to stretch
seriously and dressmakers are learning
to overcome the tendency. An ex-
ceedinrlv beautiful costume seen re-
Gently is made with Il skirt Of striped
green and white silk and coat Of
plain green trimmed with white. The
skirt is nlaited to bring the green
stripes all on top but for the depth Of
the yoke these plaits are reversed so
that at a glance one gets the effect Of
a white yoke with green below. The.
coat is a perfectlv simple plain one
but with loosely knotted sash Of the
same that is finished with fringe at the
ends. The white collar and cuffs give
lust touch Of liohtness and Of smart
ness. More substantial costumes
those designed for the women who
really take sports seriously, are ant to
be made of the wool Jersey, the skirts
with less fullness and more often plain
with perhaps few plaits at the sides
and of generous width. However. it
is accomplished or whatever way it i
brought about, the fullness Of the
skirt for general wear is massed over
the hips and the tendency is apt TO
appear to modified extent at least in
skirts of sports use. Some of the
newest sashes are knotted very loosely
1t the front in what is known as
'echarpe" or sling style, the application
Of the name being found in the form OF
he knot. A pretty one is of shamrock
green with sash Of the same but with
he collar, cuffs and pockets of green
md white check.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-05-18

UnquestionabTy. great many rnrc--
piece costumes are being made FOR
street wear. that is to say gowns and
coats of one material although the
gown usually will consist Of the skirt
and blouse trimming Of heavier
fabric with the blouse itself Of the
Georgette crepe that serves SO many
uses Of tulle or of some other thin
material For afternoon occasions.
he neck finish runs to the extreme.
either it consists of very high collar
which in some wav suggests the
necessitv for a giraffc-lile neck or it is
cut we'll below the collar line in the
half low stvle. that while it is pretty
when it is beco ming it is so apt to be
trying that it does not often meet with
very marked success. A really
beautiful gown which gives evidence
of this latter feature is adapted to the
afternoon dance, to the hotel dinner
or to the theatre. 1t comes from the
distinguished house Of Martial &
Armand. 1t is made OF chameleon
taffeta showing a wonderful COM
hination of red. blue and lavender
and it is combined with burgundy red
tulle in most marvellous way, The
skirt proper is Of the tulle finished with
q box plating OF the silk at the lower
edge and there is pannier like drapery
ri taffeta which allows long plain
line at the front but provides much
distended hips. The bodice is of the
taffeta to the line of the low neck, it
covers the bust line and is extended
straight over the arms in the old time
wav Above this bodice is yoke of
tulle that comes within few inches
of the collar line and this yoke is
softly full over band of blue ribbon
approximately half its width. The
ruffed sleeves terminate just above
the elbows It is charming costume
Tor the woman with perfect throat
and neck but the line is one to be looked
upon with judgement by anyone else.
A gown from the house Of Bazau, which
is made Of soft brown poplin with
tulle bodice shows the neck cut lust
a little below the collar and with a
fiat plated ruche living down over the
bodice as finish. In various similar
wavs the tendency is constantly ex-
plotted. This last neck line can
scarcely be called half low, for it ter
inmates Just a trifle below the collar
but it is trying to the average woman
nevertheless and it marks tendency
that cannot be overlooked The line is
pretty only when becoming. Small
dresses wearing high collar. The
high collars are many of them, buttoned
right up the front as high as it is
possible to wear. They are Of course
shown upon the costumes designed
for somewhat simpler afternoon
occasions but the tendency toward
the high neck is apparent nevertheless.
While they will not be exploited to
any considerable extent on this side Of
the sea during the summer atleast, they
make feature which cannot be over
looked. A very new blouse designed
for wear with tailored suit is made
Of lace and Georgette crepe and is
exceedingly dainty and attractive with
a collar that is straight at the front
extending up quite to the chin and be-
coming circular at each side to widen
out into frill at the back which ex-
tends we'll up over the hair and this
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-05-18

collar is wired to maintain it's perfect
shape. 1t is clever idea and an idea
worth needing for it gives the high
effect without discomfort inasmuch
as the collar is cut down at the front
and passes comfortably under the
chin. A very lovely gown, again
designed for afternoon wear is OF white
Georgette crepe with deep border OF
cut work in dark blue. The skirt is
made straight and very full about one
or two inches shorter than the found
alton which is Of soft white silk facet.
with blue to match the embroidery
this blue extending just little above
the depth of the border on the skirt
itself. The bodice shows the bordered
material used with exceeding clever
ness and the half low neck referred to
above makes a feature. The sleeves
are in three-quarter length. IN
doubtedly. the style. is an ideally
comfortable one for midsummer wear
and for the woman who can adapt it
with safety, it has advantages without
number.
Russian blouses of thin materials
were mentioned some weeks ago but
they. are growing in number and APP
pearing in so many different forms
that they seem to demand further
exploitation. A very charming cos
tune seen at a display Of French
models consisted of an elaborate skirt
of black taffeta with deep white yoke
and belted blouse Of Georgette crepe
- loA G.: =. l.
low the edge of the yoke Separate
blouses of the crepe Of pongee and Of
various silks are being very generally
exploited and are pretty to wear in
place OF the more conventional blouse.
Some few of them are finished in
genuine Russian style closed to the
left shoulder and with a high collar
but in compliment to the coming
season Of warm weather. notifications
are general and very lovely blouses
OF Georgette are seen with. big rolling
collars that give the open neck.
Dainty and attractive ones are made
of white with collars and cuffs of color
and are worn with girdles that are
richly embroidered with beads
Blouses of pongee are much exploited
lOO dlld dAC pLClly III OIlAllS wear
and practical women are always quick
to recognize the advantage of fashions
of such sort. In one of its latest forms,
the blouse has appeared in handker-
chief linen in dainty colors suggestive
of the spring flowers and the linen
blouse will find thousand uses.
For the street there are all kinds OF
fascinating little collarettes of tullc
and of lace and ostrich trimming are
feing generously used. They make
a really ideal finish for the spring
costume, they are generally becoming
and they are offered in such wide
variety that something should b
found to suit. each face. There are
the simple ruches that fit closely about
the neck, there are cape collars and
there are collarettes Of numbefless
kinds. The combination of ostrich
with soft crepe or with ribbon il very
charming and exceedingly becoming
for the ostrich has a softening eject 7
and suits almost every face.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-05-18

gowns Join the ends of the cuffs
and of the lining separately using
single seams and press open, then
gather the sleeves at the lower edges
between the two crosses, and arrange
the cuffs over the lining with the seams
and the edges exactly meeting Basic
the two together well within the edges
TO allow scanning. Join the unner
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-05-18

measure the number of inches from the
center front of the belt to the edge Of
the blouse and cut an opening just that
many inches to the left of the front OF
the skirt UNDERTAKE. the front edge
Of this opening and finish the back
with extension lar
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-05-18
are Popular for Children,s Goats

make really important needs of the spring and of the
summer for there cool days found the height the
season while motoring always brings demand for wraps for the
whole family The models that shown here excellent
he girls coat and absolutely simple and chdke
In the picture it made of black and white check velour
made Of light weight dark blue serge Over the back is b the
end Of which buoned into place The tiny fock Of
the newest sort with plain bodice and full Aaring skirt
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-05-18

3ONGEE is being much worn this
season and the striped pongees
are exceedingly handsome as
5H as exceedingly smart. This one
'mbines blue with natural color
q the gown is one that can be made
Hilable for many occasions The
sie chemisette and haring collar
Ide Of organdie. The blouse is ?
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
Third D. c. INFANTRY
ROUTS CAVALRY TROOP
Camp Ordway Invaded During Mimic
Attack.

Cavalry Troop A, D. c. National Guard,
received an order about 10 O'Clock yester-
day morning to hurry to the south of
their camp to repulse an expected at
tack. The Third Infantry were the at
tackers and they completely routed the
defenders.
The Cavalry men are to give a dance
tonight at Fort Myer to which all
former members are invited
Capt z. W. Fullam is the latest victim
of an accident. His mount shied into a
ditch, inflicting injuries on Capt Fullam,
who went to the hospital at Fort Myer
for treatment.
Orders to move have not come to the
Guardsmen at Camp Ordway, but officers
and men are reassured by the news of
the movement of National Guard troops
from Wyoming. Kansas, and Wisconsin
to the border. Preparations, are being
made at the District mobilization camp
for a quick departure when the orders
finally arrive
Applications for relief for dependent
relatives are coming in slowly. II was
stated at Brigade headquarters last
night that there will probably not be more
than twenty or twenty-five applications
from the entire camp membership.
Officers of the Second United States
Cavalry and OF the District militia gave
dance last night which was attended
by many Washingtonians, including sew
eral members of local society circles.
Members OF the militia and the Third
Infantry Band will attend the Pres Club
Board of Trade ball game on Wednesday
as the guests Of the organizations.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
D. c. CIVILIANS WILL
enter rifle SHOOT
Commissioners Decide to Send Add
tional Teams to Jacksonville.

Two civilian teams Of marksmen, in ad-
dition to the team OF Guardsmen, will be
sent from Washington to the national
rife match at Jacksonville, beginning
October II.
These teams are to be composed of
meS1bers of rife clubs. one made up of
high school students. including last years
graduates, and another composed of
members Of local organizations. includ-
ing life and annuatsnembers of the Ma
tional Rifle Association.
Both these teams will be selected by a
competitive shoot, open to individuals
affiliated with all clubs. The national
match course will be fired twice at the
try-out Sept. 30 on the range at Win
throp, Md. The range will be open every
day except Sunday, for practice. The
only expense attached will be for meals
at government prices. Accommodations
will be offered at the camp.
This arrangement is made possible by
reason of the War Departments de-
cision to admit to the national competi-
tion one or more teams from each state
and territory and the District, in addi-
ton to the militia marksmen. Congress
recently made an appropriation to meet
the cost of transporting the teams.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
START work ON HOME :
FOR FREER ART GROUP
VIII Require Two Years to Complete
MiIhon-Dollar Structure.

Work on the fence which is to hide
the new home Of the Freer Art Collec-
ton. at the corner OF Twelfth and B
streets southwest, from the curious eyes
Of the public, was begun yesterday.
II Is estimated that It will take about
two years to complete the building for
which Charles L. Freer gave a million
dollars. The building Is to house the
valuable collection which Mr.. Freer is
presenting to the people OF the United
States and IL to be built of pink granite
to harmonic with the red stone of the
old National Museum building and the
white stone Of the east wing of the De-
partment Of Agriculture building, be-
tween which 1t is to be built
The collection was made personally by
Mr.. Freer, who Is an art connoisseur
and includes a particularly fine collec-
ton Of the works Of whistler. At pres
ent the collection, which is being aug
mented, contains more than FIVE thou
sand works Of art
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS
START VOYAGE TONIGHT
Will Leave on Trip Down Potomac to
Old Point Comfort.

"All's quiet along the Potomac" win
not apply tonight, for 300 Knights Of Co
lumbus will go voyaging to Old Point
Comfort, Virginia Beach and Norfolk.
They will leave on the Norfolk and
Washington boat from the Seventh street
wharf at o'clock.
All arrangements have been made for
gala time. There will be a cabaret
show followed by dancing until midnight.
Tomorrow morning the knights will
breakfast at the Hotel Chamberlain at
Old Point Comfort, followed by a special
mass IN the chapel.
Surf bathing at Virginia Beach and a
sightseeing trip in Norfolk are among
the amusements arranged. The party will
return to Washington on Monday at
o'clock.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
ROOT FOR UNIVERSAL
MILITARY TRAINING

Elihu Root has come out publicly as
faVortng universal military service.
Through the Association for National
Service, he has given an interview in
which he urges that the men of the
country be made to feel their duty as
citizens to be prepared to defend the
country.
The old way OF waiting for war to be
declared and then calling out volunteers
Is obsolete" he declares. The National
Guard system is not adequate and can
not be made adequate to meet the needs
OF national defense under any real as
sault under her rights. Universal train
ing and readiness for service not only
are demanded by plain common sense,
but they are essentially democratic"
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
KEEP YOUR BUTTER COLD
If YOU HATE BACTERIA

Bacteria in butter do not grow and
thrive in butter in cold storage, according
to report OF DR.. Don c. Dyer, of the
Department Of Agriculture, who has been
investigating the subject
The strength OF butter does not come
from this source, but from the acid gen
Grated in sour milk from which butter is
made. In order to give the high flavor
which people demand IN butter, milk must
be left standing until 1t sours before
churning. This high flavor becomes on
flavor" after being stored for any length
of time.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23


Isaac Cans, one of the most widely
known business men of Washington, has
become a member and treasurer of the
firm Of Saks & Company. Inc, Of which
he has been general manager for years
and which was Incorporated at Whining
ton, Del, yesterday, under the laws of
that State.
The Saks company. dealers in mems
and boys clothing and furnishings. is
one of the oldest and largest in that
line of business in Washington. For
many years 1t has occupied quarters at
the northwest corner OF Seventh street
and Market Space.
Oficers of the new corporation
named in the articles filed at Will
mington are: President, Isadore Saks;
vice president, Joseph I. Saks; treas
urer. Isaac Cans; secretary, George s.
Daniel
Mr.. Cans rise In the business world
has been achieved as the result of
indefatigable industry and diligence
and his activity in the world Of COM
merce has been matched by his con-
slant interest in civic affairs. His
is recognized as a reward of merit.
There will be no change in the pro-
gressive policy of the business as q
result of the Incorporation. it was
announced.
An Englishman has invented a cover
for hatchways on vessels that operate
on the principle Of a roll-top desk.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
The TouDn Crier

The West Virginia Society of wash-
ington will hold a business meeting
at the Ebbitt House on Friday. Oc-
tober 6.
The BIOomingdaIe Orchestra, under
the direction of B. J. Wrightsman.
will resume rehearsals for the season
this evening. at Bethany Baptist
Church, Rhode Island avenue, near
Second street northwest.
The Washington District woman's
Foreign Missionary Society of the
Methodist Episcopal Church is to hold
its annual meeting in Union NJ e.
of officers and superintendents are to
be presented and Bishop w. F. Nc
Dowell is to deliver the principal ad-
dress,
Members of the Drill Corps of Kali
Iipolis Grotto will hold a hop" on Oc-
tober 10. at the New Willard Hotel
The Drill Corps. will make special
trips to Philadelphia and Alexandria
as it has done to Baltimore. to person
ally invite members of the Masonic
order to attend.
The Biblical and Literary Society of
Adath Israel congregation. under di-
rection OF DR.. Benjamin A. Grossman.
will hold its next meeting in the YES
The first fall meeting of the North
Capitol and lexington Citizens As
sociation will be held in the Matthew
G. Emery School. Lincoln road and
Randolph place. Tuesday evening at
80 o'clock.
housewarming at the new head
quarters of the Hughes Club at Fif-
teenth and F streets will be held to-
night Local business men will be in
vited. according to the report of the
committee on arrangements.
The AshIar Club of Master Masons
will meet tonight in its club rooms,
Old Masonic Temple, F and Ninth
streets northwest. The entertainment
will include music by Clifford Stumph,
soloist of Epiphany Church. There will
be several lectures.
Garfield citizens under the sponsor
ship of their Citizens Association and
Home-School Association will stage a
country fair with exhibits of home
cooking and needlework and work
done by the children at the play
grounds during the past summer at
the Garfield School, in Alabama av-
enue southeast, October 26 and 81
The College Equal Suffrage League
will meet at the Munsey Building on
Monday night at s o'clock. Reports
on the annual convention will be
given.
The Legion of Loyal Women will
hold the first fall meeting and rally
at the Raleigh Hotel on Monday even
ing at O'Clock. Mrs. Ada weiff.
president will be in charge.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
FRENCH EMBARGO LIST GROWS.

Fifty Articles Added, state Depart
ment Announces.
The State Department yesterday noti-
fed American shippers that the French
government has added some fifty articles
to the French embargo list.
The new list will interfere to some ex-
tent with American shipments to Swift
zerland because OF the French embargo
provision which prohibits the transit
through French territory of articles on
the embargo list.
The additional list includes metallic
ores, asphalt, chemicals, animal oils and
electric material.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23

An Englishman has invented a cover
for hatchways on vessels that operate
on the principle Of a roll-top desk.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
HoBoEs INVADE MEMPHIS.
Frosty Air Starts Annual Mfgrs-
tfon south.

Memphis. Tenn, Sept. 7.-The first
frosty air of fall has started hoboes MI
grating south. Florida and the coastal
regions Of Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi
and Louisiana are the destinations of the
tourists who ride trains but do not buy
tickets.
Travel is not confined to freight trains
alone. Many tramps have been found in
the tops and blinds" OF fast passenger
trains. Tramps failing to find favora-
BILE opportunity to make train" have
appealed to police headquarters for lodg-
ing here.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
CALVARY BAPTIST CLASS
AIDS MISSIONARY WORK

Financial support OF the missionary
work OF the Calvary Baptist Church and
the purchase Of a scholarship for a young
woman about to enter college are a part
OF the contribution of a young ladies'
class Of the church
The class was entertained at its
monthly dinner last night by Miss Flor
ence NJ. Brown. general secretary Of the
Young WOmen's Christian Association.
who is teacher Of the class, In the cafete-
ha Of the association
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
Bulgarian Chamber to Meet.

Berne, Sept. 2-The Bulgarian Sobranje
will assemble October Is, the Bulgarian
minister to Switzerland announced today.
THE Sobranje will vote an expression Of
confidence in the government and also
will vote on expenditure for carrying on
the war" the minister said.
The Washington herald., 1916-09-23
KELVINIA CASE CLOSED.
Lansing Officially Informed Mine
Sank Ship.

The case of the British steamer Kel-
vinia was closed yesterday afternoon
when Secretary of State Lansing was
officially informed that the vessel, which
had twenty-eight Americans on board,
was sunk by mine and not a torpedo,
as previously reported.
The information came from the British
Admiralty, being forwarded in a cable
from the American Embassy.