The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-01-30

a hundred looks well in a fchu. hut
there is a good deal in the adjustment
of one. :. definite surpliCe or narrow
V neck line. close To the throat AT the
sides II without height in the back.
Is n of the most unbccoming things
THAI: the other n~inety-nlne out Of the
hundred women can wear. but push the
fichu away from the reck at the sides.
roaden the top Of the V, let the
curve of the shoulder and more OF
the ches; show, and your ilchu or cape
collar is more wcarable,
The French designers seem to ap-
preciatc this fact and one finds this
wider V line not only in tiChu, but in
many OF the soft low collars. which,
through rolling a little bit high at the
back. often roll n~egligently away from
the base Of the throat at the sides.
showing the whole throat instead al
just "A slender V In front. This ar
rangement is noticeable on a good
many Of the prettiest new hin blouses,
and while it easily ~dcCenerates into
mussiness. 1t is undoubtedly becoming
and attracting while the collar is fresh
and new.
The fchu. like the cape collar. gives
n desired dropped shoulder lire and
this effect is obtained also by dropped
armholes. shoulder Jokes running
down over the eev tops and kimono
cutting. Yes. the kimono sleeve once
more does the phPniX act. For that
matter 1t has never really subsidized
into ashes. 1t has undergone all sorts
OF notifications, but its smooth, re-
vealing shoulder lines are too becom-
Ing and graceful TO be discarded, and
among both the new frocks and the
new coats one finds many a kimono
sleeve top or sleeve. almost always,
however. with the under armhole
seam running we'll up to the arm and
preventing any undue bagginess.
The very long close sleeve mas prac-
tically passed. The long sleeve with
full top and close deep cuN, whether
with greatest width at top or at ell
bow. has had its vogue and Is still
worn, as is the full long sleeve droop-
ing over some form Of narrow cum or
wristband: but the sleeve OF the future
shows signs of being abbreviated and
taking unto itself little undersleeves
Of muslin or chiffon or other sheer
stuff. when 1t is not frankly short or
Of elbow length. The short sleeve Is
always shock!ngly abused and makes
distressing disclosures, but II Is COM
Portable. particularly as n warm
weather mode. and most women will
welcome 1t II 1t Gusts the long sleeve
for most purposes.
Returning to that hchu detail again
for a moment, fchus IF cream net or
fin soft white muslin OF organdy are
used on some very quaint little
s%prigged and dotted muslins which
have the white trimming introduced
elsewhere too. and the trimming of the
material into which n touch OF color
enters with white Is often very effec-
tive. A frOck sketched for one of our
small cuts illustrates this idea, a tichu,
skirt fiounces II short sleeves of fine
cream net with scalloped INC en-
broidered edges being used upon "A voile
whose cream ground is sprinkled with
tiny sprigs in yellow and rose and
cornfiower blue.
Still more attractive are the narrow
futed frills OF white organdy or very
sheer white muslin that are applied to
figured muslin In many of the newest
imported models. A thin fine muslin,
on whose white ground hair lines OF
lavender are so closely placed that the
material at a distance looks like a pale
lavender. has inch wide aute1 mills of
white muslin running around the full
skirt between groups of tucks, and its
wide rolling collar. bodice front and
short sleeves are finished with similar
frills.
Dark color. OF the other hand, Ia fire.
quently used for trimming white, dark
blue and white being particularly liked.