davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
Smart Petticoats.

A FULL taffeta petticoat is pulled
~ into q haircloth band at the bot
tom. and is lined with China silk 1t
has practical pockets. gathered around
cord and pointed with a rosette 1t is
almost dressy enough to be an outside
skirt.
Another pettiooat is tafreta-yoked,
with a deep chiffon flounce made to
stand out all around by means of alter
nate rows of taffeta cording and taffeta
milliner's folds.
petticoat to hold out the dancing
frock is made of net, chiffon and crepe
de chine. with reed around the bot
tom. Crepe de chine forms the top, the
body is of net, and the ruffies are of
chiffon.
vivid-colored petticoats in emerald,
cerise and purple are worn with black
and white suits. Nothing looks SO well
with shepherd checks as these bright
petticoats. 1t is mistake to wear a
black and white skirt with a black and
white suit. One kills the other
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
Fashions and Fads.

Wood canvas is one of the spring
ia brics.
Hair dressing is generally close and
simple.
Almond green is a fascinating spring
shade.
Handkerchief are in Haunting. bril-
liant colors.
One of the most popular sleeves is
the bell effect.
Wooden wolfe is likely to be a ia
vorite this spring.
Linen dresses will be trimmed with
rickrack braid.
Lavalliers with a cameo pendant are
sometimes seen.
The gayest of awning stripes is not
too gay for skirts.
The new evening gown should be
short and very bouffant.
Bodices are inclined to be skinny
and with ample sleeves.
Plain gold bracelets still have fair
amount of popularity.
A great many of the spring costumes
are made Of black silk.
The high collar is not going to be
very much worn this summer.
Slippers of gold or silver are worn
with frocks of any color.
A big silk rose tucked in the waist.
belt or dress is the latest vanity.
Very bright trimmings are seen on
somber dresses or tailor suits.
Early Victorian bodices are demure-
ly cut with a point in front.
Sleeves tight-fitting to the elbow are
finished with deep falls of lace.
There is a growing demand for the
long, old ia hioned guard chains.
A popular style of suit coat is the
semi-ftted, close-shouldered cut.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

wider than they have been for MANY
seasons. They are cut circular, gored
or plated. The favored and practical
length is six inches from the ground.
A suit of taffeta has the coat finished
with plated peplum, with a sash end
in front. The skirt has box-plaited
sides. and is trimmed with bands Of
velvet ribbon in harmony with the
jacket.
Another suit of tafeta has box coat
IN hip length and cut very full, hang
ing loosely from the shoulders. 1t is
trimmed with wide bands of velvet.
cookbook ng suit is of serge in
eton type jacket with standing collar
The skirt is fuil with panels of cluster
plaits, each panel trimmed at the bot
tom with rows Of braid to match the
| jacket.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

seem to handle i, in the most graceful
way.
She has sent to this country a gown
of black net and velvet ribbon, that
is entirely suita Bile for the middle
aged woman who does not want to ap-
pear like a fedgling. and such gown
is rare these days. The foundation or
the skirt is black chiffon. with loose
strips of black velvet ribbon hanging
over it in the Spanish effect. Above
this is slinslke drapery of white
and black lace. BY the way. sings Of
transparent materials are exceedingly
smart for hip drapery. and Nine. Joire.
who is the head of the Paqun estab-
lishment, has made a feature of them
on street and evening gowns There
is really no need to describe them
further. for all you have to think of is
surgical sling used to rest wounded
arm.
The bodice which is quite low in
front. is of black and white lace. and
it is made quite high at the back by
u wide band of black velvet ribbon,
lined with black silk. which is made
to stand straight up across the back
of the neck. around the armholes and
then down the front of the blouse.
forming surplice below the decol-
letage. then crossing around the waist
and going to the back. where it hangs
in two ends Above IFS crossing at
the back there are long ovais of jet.
linked into each other and forming an
attractive definition of the waistline.
One of the other good variations of
this renaissance neckline is to drop it
a bit lower than the collarbone in
front. round it up slightly at the outer
edges to reach the shoulder line and
finish it in the back with n turnover
collar of white organdy or crepe. This
has been effectively done in the new
gowns to be worn in deep mourning.
One thing seems to be as nearly Ger.
tain as anything can be in fashions;
this is that the round neck in after.
noon bodces and evening gowns is to
be the fashionable line of decolletage.
In one of Jennv's admirable black
and silver gowns there is a Brittany
basque in fine jet on net. the peplum
below the belt being cut into battle
ments that are held out by the stiff
ness of the silver embroidered taffeta
used for the skirt: the decolletaGe
gives the appearance of being gem
uine 1870 one. Upon close eXamina-
ton it is found that the short. puffed
sleeves of tulle and jet that are placed
well below the shoulder line are held
up by cleverly arranged gusset Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
ividuality Reig1s i'm the New Spring Fashions

there. The blouse has the new and &C
cepted renaissance neck, which means
straight line to the collarbone and
finished with a turnover collar of some
soft fabric or embroidery. There is as
much chiffon used as serge in this slim
little bodice: there is also pink rose
and long loose sleeves of blue chiffon
over rose-colored net.
II YOU don't like panniers you need
not have them. for there are just as
many good models without them as
with them There is usually some kind
of drapery on the hips, but you can
choose from a half hundred WAYS. some
of which are so inconspicuous that YOU
would have to tell your friends that
your gown is punched up in the ne"
manner.
/ Jenny has sent over two especially
attractive gowns with hin drapery. to
which no conservative woman could
object: one has skirt of black SILK
with u figured satin design on II and
hem. which is Surel.' not more than
| four yards wide: the hin draperT
, formed of a piece of the silk used with
its sewage going around the figure.
/ loosely falling nearly to the knees and
punched up on the hips just below the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

~ NE of the delights of early April
II is maple sugar, prepared in a
W variety of appetizing ways. We
have the Indians to thank for the art
of making the real maple sugar. and
the early settlers took their cue from
them. While the process of making
was crude in the extreme the product
was pure. which is more than can be
said of much of the trade sugar and
strip in the markets today. The
wholesale dealer takes the common
cane sugar or glucose, puts into it
about tenth as much real maple
sugar. and we eat it on our cakes and
waffles.
According to reliable estimates, seven
eighths of the sugar and strip sold to-
day is only partly maple, or made en-
tirely of other products. In the west
corncobs boiled in water are used
to furnish the foundation for a home
made maple strip, while extract of
hickory bark is also utilized for the
furnishing of near pie" flavor in
combination with brown sugar or
glucose Ohio was the first state to
draw a line on the whole deception,
and its food commissioner has been in
defatigable in seeing that all the maple
sirups sent out from that state are
what they purport to be. The remedy
for paying maple sugar prices for
simply a maple taste, which may be
nearly all cane sugar or glucose, lies
with the consumer According to the
national food laws, the product must
be correctly labeled as to ingredients.
Sometimes these labels are written in
/, almost inflnitesimal characters but get
out your glasses il need be and see
what you are buying.
Sucre a la Creme.
Boil together a pound Of grated maple
sugar and a half cup of rich cream
until the strip forms a soft ball when
rolled in a saucer with a spoon. Cover
the bottom of well buttered tins with
a layer Of chopped butternut meats and
pour over them the candy. Let it hard
! en- a little and mark into squares with
knife.
This is popular CONNECTION among
the French-Canadian peasants, who
also use the boiled cream and sugar
for icing a delicate white cake.
An excellent layer cake is made by
using this sucre a la creme with the
butternuts for the filing. then frosting
the top layer with the cream without
the nuts.
A. delicious pudding sauce is made by
melting maple sugar in cream or even
An old-fashioned preserve, still a
favorite among the Catskill mountain
people, Is made of maple sugar and
plums. Melt the sugar in a little wa
| ter and cook with the plums, allowing
pound for pound. This gives a tart
sweetness especially delightful to the
palate.
In the maple sugar regions. delicious
little baking pbwder biscuit or rolls
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
Lye as a Cleanser.

DULVERIZED I've can be bought in
" cans with perforated tops. 1t is so
useful in the household that no house
keeper can afford to be without it. If
put into the sink, it keeps the drain
clean. the I've uniting with grease and
making a soap. 1t is invaluable for re-
moving grease and stains from pots.
pans and kettles, and especially the
garbage pail, which should by all
means be kept clean. A long-handled
dish mop should be kept on hand to
be used when cleaning with I've, as it
Is exceedingly injurious to the hands.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

IA smartly dressed society woman at a
restaurant dinner Two days after
saw the original gown exhibited at an
opening, which goes to show how dif-
ficult il is to get ho'd of anything that
is not reflected by some one else.
There are few women who will rebel
sufTi GENTLY against long sleeves to put
them out of fashion. 1t is passing
strange that long sleeves will always
come in with Nthe advent of warm
weather instead of cold. but the modern
version of using transparent fabrics to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

waistiine: the bodice is conventional
combination of iridesceut crystals on
net, and the joining of the two would
for all the world look Ike a skirt and
separate blouse if the belt had not been
featured 1t is made of blue satin and
has pleatinss of the black and blue.
standing high IN in back and rather
queer blue satin ornaments holding
them in place.
The week that this gown came out
il was worn at the same time by a
distinguished young actress ana by
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
In the Sick Room.

mLACING a watch under tumbler
near the bed of a sick person will
give him or her relief from the ticking,
which is often very trying to sensitive
nerves. If there is no timepiece near
a sense of loneliness may be felt, but
if a watch is laid under a tumbler, even
close to the bed, the ticking is almost
inaudjble
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

SUNDAY MENU.
BREAKFAST.
Oranges. Cereal.
Omelette. water Cress.
Waffies Maple Strip.
Coffee.
DINNER.
Oyster Soup. Radishes:
white Fricassee Of Chicken with Pop
corn Border.
Mashed Potatoes. Parsnip Fritters.
Lettuce with French Dressing.
Maple Ice Cream.
SUPPER.
Rolls. Veal Loaf.
Picked Pears.
Waldorf Salad. Waters.
Roquefort Cheese.
Maple Sugar Layer Cake.
Canned Pears.
Tea.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
To Brighten Windows.

IF you wish to make the panes of your
windows glossy and bright after
washing and drying them. rub them
overiwith cloth moistened with water
in which some salt has been dissolved.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

And what is the condition now 1t
is this. y good customer with a large
purse walks into a fashionable dress
making place and is shown gowns. She
likes one immensely She asks il It
is a Cheruit or Doucet.
Neither: it is from Arnold is the
answer. she designs for some of the
greatest Parisiennes. There is no du-
plicate of this over here; she designed
II for this house
And who made that evening gown"
asks the customer further. Worth or
1.anvin?
ut is by Monjaret. | know this is
new name 20 YOU, madam. but Mile.
Monjaret was the artistic and delight
full premiere with Paul poiret and now
that his house has been closed since
the beginning of the wa the buyers
have found that his discinie can make
wonderful gowns. If you buy it you
will not see yourself as in mirror
al every party.
please have your manneGuin put on
that amazing wrap with ruff7es and the
Louis XIV vest in front asks the Gus
toner. Was il made by Paquin?
NO, indeed: ii is by Royant. whose
fame in Paris for wrans has been
great for four wears. The glory of
leading the new fashions in sport
clothes at DearvilIe has rested between
Royant and Channel. You Americans
have not been familiar With these
names. but no smart woman in Europe
goes without a wrap from one of these
two houses
Now. you can see for yourself how
easy ii will he TO persuade women to
wear gowns that are not reflected on
every side. Here are some of the chan
nels along which rebellion may run:
If you don't like skirts that fare
out into ten yards al the hem you can
wear the barrel skirt to which Cabot
Doeuillet and Bulloz have given their
approval. II is really newer and more
original than all the other skirts. and
II is not generally known or handled.
Even Some of the best dressmakers
show models that are not true to type.
BY the way. Bulloz has one of the
best models made of fine blue serge
that looks like silk, the hoops of the
barrel placed on the under side of the
skirt. holding il out in a modified man
ner above the knees and letting it fall
in at the ankles. The hem of this skirt
does not measure over three and one
half yards, probably, and the top of
u Is laid loosely. but fatty. over the
hips.
The odd feature of this gown is the
placement of a few dull pink silk
roses on the barrel hoops, here and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

Uniformity Styles Have Lost Their Prestige Among the Amer
l. Houses France Find Customers This Comy-lon
Barrel Skirt of the Season. Which May Take the Place Of the
Wide Novehy-Odd Features of the New Gowns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

1esh-colored tulle. that hugs the top
of the shoulder
This is ohered as a brand-new frock
at smart 5th avenue shops. and YET
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

Florence Walton has been dancing in
a marvellous gown with just this ar
rangement of the shoulders for the last
two months.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

Pongee silks now have awning stripes
bright red, green or blue. set beauti-
fully on the natural pqRgee-colored
ground.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

1t goes without saying that hundreds
of women are going to revolt against
the renaissance neckline which cuts
straight across the top of the shout
ders, leaving the bare neck come out
like a column from a huge basic frame
work.
1t is not easy TO explain why this
moyen-age neckiine has become fash
ionable during an era of Louis Nv and
Louis Philippe fashions. unless one re-
members that Cheruit and Premet have
emphasized this kind of necklne for
several gowns from being true to type.
The French designer never likes to
be accused of copying pictures or
periods exactly; she would think that
such slavishness would be an insult to
her genius for original designing: she
would frankly own to the source Of
her inspiration, but she would always
add something to the gown to keep it
from being a COPY, This curious neck
line is an example
There is no doubt that some Of the
French designers eXaggerate this last
feature to the point of freakishness.
and others, like Paquin, for example.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09


far cry to the woman living on 'ural
delivery route to say that she has
chance to he dressed differently from
her neiehbors, because Paul Foiret fell
out with his neighbors. Yet such is
the case If u handful &C the great
dressmakers in the void had not de-
cided to keep their models this spring
from the gaze of eve. urHrr VINO
wished to pass through tH"r doors.
and if the big ioue-tca' buyers had
not bccom" inceHs@a 0F-~" TINS edlct;
and if all the ruiro" i"nSs bakers had
not rushed to the front to lain Amer
lean money for their %-rSs. We should
all b. wearing s!uulicateS of te"
certain models throughout this stu
pendouS continent.
The thing that was devoutly wished
by the merchants. Therefore. has come
to mass. American women have found
out the reasons for The coming over OF
so many gowns from minor houses IN
Paris. and they arc bring literally
without demanding the names of the
great houses that heretofore ruled the
world of fashion Who Knows how far
this situation n7a-- carr the dress IN
dustry into high ho1"~ty"
No one will deny that the false la bel
usage had become scandal in the
mercha ndisinG of wocens clothes
Every one blamed ever one else for
II. out ifdt II "dS u''fs every ohe
knew As the public always pays. so
the public is a1wa--s blamed for what
ever goes wrong. The rich American
women wore gowns that bore the
Ia bel of a few French firms and SO, for
the sake of trade. the clothes people
said there grew IN a vast industry in
this country of using fal-e labels.
But in the twinkling Of an eye has
sounded the trumpet of doom against
this condition. The few great houses
I'm France said they would not sell to
any one they did not care to. and the
American houses took their revenge by
buying half of their stock from minor
houses who had never had a chance.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

cover the arms robs the long sleeve of
its terror.
1t is fascinating to go among the
many French gowns that are offered
for inspection and try to CLASSIFY the
different kinds of sleeves; and the next
thought is that any woman who does
not care for one kind may have
chance at several others.
There are even sleeves in evening
gowns. and some of them reach to the
knees. There are mouSnuetaire ones
of silver or gold net that. before they
are put on the arms. look like the
stockings of some greedy child hanging
on a Christmas mantel. When they
are put on the arms the entire length
is wrinkled up between wrist and arm
hole.
In all this vast variety of sleeves ono
kind is missing: nothing fits the arm
without q break or bulge between the
armholc and the cuff There are coat
sleeves that start out TO be quite con-
ventional. but which run IN when they
get below the elbow or reach the wrist.
one of the most amazing sleeves in
an evening gown is nothing but pair
of long mitts Of lace that are made
OF the ends of lace and tulle drapery
that flow down the back of the gown.
As the Wearer spreads out her arms
either in talking or dancing she widens
the back draDery until it looks like the
wings of a butterfly.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

The odd feature of this gown is the
placement of few dull pink silk
roses on the barrel hoops here and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
Maple Parfait.

Try this while you have your maple
sirup. Scald one quart of milk in the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09
Maple Cocoanut Squares.

Put in kettle a scant cup of maple
strip and a tablespoonful of butter.
When it boils add a grated cocoanut
and cook over a slow fire until done;
which will be when it hardens If drop
ped in cold water. Pour on to a but
tered marble slab or in a buttered pan,
and when hardened sufficiently cut into
squares and wrap in paraffin paper.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-04-09

NEW fUFk, NNTII ., I'I".
Ne recoils with irritation ano
WEAKNESS at any further men
ton of the doinSs of the De-
fense Syndicate in Paris. be-
Arizona republican., 1916-04-28
American conferees Enroute

SAN ANTONIO. epril 27.-MaJor General Hugh l.. Scott, chief of staff, of the American army, was on his way to Fl Paso tonight to discuss with Gen eral Alvaro Obregon, Carranza's min ister of war questions incident to the presence of American troops in Mexico. Accompanied by Major General Freder- ick Funston, General Scott left here at $50 o'clock tonight. With them went their respective aides.
 Just what Generals Scott and Fun ston are going to discuss with General Obregon and just what preparations they will make, remained here unknown tonight It was assumed that General Obregon has received special instruc- tions from his government to guide him in the conference and little credence is given the unofficial report that Gen eral Obregon was prepared to demand that definite time be set for the with drawal of the American troops.
 It was not anticipated by Generals Scott and Funston that all would be adjusted after one brief talk with Cen eral Obregon. It was regarded as
Arizona republican., 1916-04-28

more likely that the first conference would be merely one of series and the intervals might be long enough for both General Obregon and General Scott to communicate with their re- spective governments regarding the various suggestions as they were made. General Scott has no plenary powers and it is believed that General Obre- gon has no authority to enter into agreement without first submitting it to Carranza.
 It is believed here that the confer ence probably would take place in Juarez, the Mexican town opposite Fl Paso. It is understood that the United States government has, no objections to General Scott and Funston meeting the Mexican representatives on Mexi- can soil and it was realized that Gen eral Oregon might not care to carry on the discussion on American soil
Arizona republican., 1916-04-28

their common object" Discussion of the conference was the chief occupa tion in Fl Paso tonight pending arrival of the officials who will participate in it.
 General Obregon, according to q mes sage received late today by General Gavira, commander of the Juarez gar rison, left Chihuahua City tonight and is due to arrive in Juarez at 9:3O d. m. tomorrow. Generals Scott and Fun ston will not complete their twenty three hours ride from San Antonio un- til 6:30 o'clock tomorrow evening.
 5,On account of the late arrival of Gen erals Scott and Funston it is thought likely that the conference will not be- gin until Saturday and that possibly only the preliminaries will be settled then. The real work of the conferees may not be reached before Sunday.
 The meeting place cannot be settled until the arrival of the participants. Mexican officials thought today, how ever. that it probably would be held in the customs house in Juarez. They pointed out that General Obregon's su- perior rank as minister or war Tor the Carranza government entitled him to the privilege of remaining on Mexican soil.
 The customs house is a large red brick building standing in block of it's own on the main street of Juarez only short distance from the inter- national bridge where General Scott held his famous conference with Villa who then had not relapsed into his ban dit ways It's rooms are spacious and cool and comfortably furnished in the Spanish style. Soldiers now keep guard at the entrance, in the center of which stands machine gun. backed up by a chest of cartridges.
 All the meetings will be secret. It is believed here that the number of per. sons will be very limited. Genera