The Birmingham age-herald., 1916-07-09

the tone of her costume. There are colors and colors also; a tailored suit of natural linen is possible for summer wear, or one of dull green linen, but linen in the violet or lavender tone should be avoided as the plague.
 Of Satin-striped VoiIe in Dark Blue
 Tones.
 Every line Is cunningly designed to give length in the afternoon gown of dark blue satin-striped voile, mounted over dark blue taffeta in the skirt and blue chiffon in the bodice. The long V at the front of the bodice, showing a narrow vest of lace Is excellent for stout figure and the fronts of the bodice are cleverly brought over the taffeta girdle to prevent sharp cross wise line where girdle and bodice meet. The deep cuffs, giving trim effect at the wrist, are excellent also. Though without gathers at the top, the skirt has graceful flare, a facing of stiffening being inserted in the hem. The bodice Is of course draped over carefully shaped and fitted founda- ton, featherboned at the waistline so that trim lines are secured.
 The stout woman Is apt to be tiny bit vain of her foot and ankle for wonderfully slender ankles and slim, pretty little feet are often the posses sion of women with extremely stout, ungainly figures So the stout woman is fastidious about her footwear and quite rightly wears the daintiest but toned boots and the smartest pumps nd ci1 ct ch When she selects her gloves, she should see to 1t that they are rather loose than tight, for a tight glove strained over fat hand Is painful to the artistic sense.
 Wraps Should Conceal, Not Reveal,
 The Figure.
 The stout woman usually looks her best in a long wrap or coat whose graceful cut makes her appear much slighter than a gown that is fitted in to the curves of her figure. Two very good wraps are pictured; one a loosely belted coat of black gabardine with collar and cuff facings of black taffeta and the other a dignified wrap for middle-aged matron, loose, ripple garment of gunmetal cloth and faille of the same shade with big button and loop trimming of the silk. This model comes also in taupe and in black with lining of white or pale buff soiree silk, a handsome new silk with a very lustrous sheen.
 Both Of the evening gowns pictured are admirably adapted for extra size" figures; the dance frock Is dainty enough to please anybody, yet every line is calculated to make Its wearer look simmer than she is The bodice and f1aring tunic are of black satin embroidered with gold thread and the edge of the tunic Is defined Under this tunic i~ of gold tissue yelled with black tulle. The yoke and lit,le sleeves are of black tulle. A clever idea is the draw ing of the draped satin bodice over the waistline; beneath Is a boned, fitted lining. A long loop of white pearls adds to the suggestion of long lines on the bodice. The second even ing gown is of black satin with black chiffon introduced at the foot of the skirt to give a soft effect. The long panels running the length of the skirt are good idea for a short, stout fig ure. The surplice bodice, edged with jet trimming, is draped over a guimpe of black tulle. and the graceful lines of the bodice. trim yet not in any way tight. attest carefully fitted and featherboned foundation beneath Sleeves of this sort will be found more becoming to very plump arm than mere frills at the shoulderline.