davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17
Russian Blouses are Being Worn with Serge Skirts

as could easily have been foretold, the
fancy has been productive Of other
scarfs Of various sorts. We cannot all
afford the kind of fur that is desirable
for summer use, nor do we all consioer
the fur scarf an entirely corntotable
one to wear during the summer months
Some CT the later developments OF the
scarf idea are very charming. Wide
scarfs. of. black and white satin are
shown that are most attractive ana
generally becoming. There arc scarts
Of chiffon and scaTfs of silk and OF al
most every material that can be made
to drape the figure gracefully and be-
comingly. We are having a great
number of painted fabrics and painted
accessories and the shoulder scarfs OF
chiffon with pointed ends is very
charming creation, Chiffon. OF good
quality has sufficient warmth to make
it practical wrap as well.
Whatever influences may be at work.
suggestions from the Victorian era
meet one at every turn, and the scarf
and the pellerine are important features.
The Chinese influence that has been
mentioned so many times in connection
with fashions, is bringing about some
rather curious and Observation-Disclosures
ing combinations and effects, To a
great extent, the Chinese idea is ap-
parent in color rather thantin treat
ments and some Of the parasols that
are designed for out of town use are
made Of Japanese silk Of Chinese
yellow bordered with affringe Of blue
or perhaps alternating sections of green
with blue. The peculiar shades that
are familiar in the Chinese materials
and Chinese decorations being the
ones chosen. but now and again one
sees real Chinese motif for embroidery
employed upon costumes OF one sort
or another. hi. Recently, an afternoon
three-piece costume. Of, taheta was
noted with embroidery in a distinctive
Chinese design forming a border Tor
the coat and for the tunic and utilized
to provide the trimming of the entire
costume. There was a suggestion OF
the familiar dragon and the color was
that which we all know as the Chinese
but the work was executed with. heavy
threads and in the rather rapid manner
that is known in the embroideries OF
the day, assuredly as far removed
from the real Chinese work as any one
thing could be from another. In some
way. the design did not seem to suit
the treatment. The peculiar fasci-
mating in the Oriental work is found in
it's marvellous finish and detail. With
out those features it lacks the essential
charact eristics.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

arms. Join the ends of these bands
Turn the right edge under for one-half
inch and fold at the center. Now slip
the gathered edges of the sleeves be-
tween the two thicknesses and haste.
Then stitch firmly into place and cover
with little strips of the lace banding.
Sew frills of lace to the edges. Basic
the sleeves in the arnl-holes with the
seams at the notches and the single
perforations at the shoulder seams and
take care to hold the sleeves toward
YOU and stitch firmly Then trim the
seams off to half their width and cut
bias strips of the material one inch in
width Turn one long edge of each
under for one-quarter OF an inch. Ar
range them over the seam hem the
edges into place. a
To make the skirt of founcing, close
the back seam below the notches.
Thencut straight strips of material one
and one-half inches in width for
undertaking and two and one-halt
inches in width for extension underlap.
Join one long edge of the facing to the
right side of the opening taking up one
half inch seam. Turn on the seam
and haste along the edge to keep it
straight. Then turn the remaining
edge under one-quarter Of an inch and
hem into place. Make the underlap
exactly as directed for the back of the
bodice, then lap the undertaking on the
right edge over the underlap on the left
and pin into place. Stitch the UNDER
lap to the undertaking along the lower
edge.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17
SKIRT
X

side edges of the pattern and to mark
the basting line, and for the material
from which this frock is made, it will
be easy to do that with a tracin0wheel,
for such material can be trusted to
hold such markings as long as will be
required for the making. If wool or
other materials are used, it will be
necessary to mark with tailor's tacks
which were described in previous
lessons. Mark all the indicating
notches and circles, never cut the
notches as so doing Injuries the seam.
As the first step, close the shoulder
and the under-arm seams, that IS, take
I'D tiny seam on the right side, then
turn and sew the second time on the
left side this time following the line
that you have marked from the per-
forations. Turn the seam on the
right back edge under and turn the
edge under again on the perforationss,
and stitch by machine or hem by hand:
To finish the left side, cut strip OF
material the length of the bodice and
one-quarter of an inch wider than the
distance from the edge to the per-
forations. Seam to left back with the
seam on the wrong SIDE then turn on
the seam and haste the edge. Turn
the extra one-quarter of an inch under
on the remaining edge which will bring
the fold exactly at the circles and hem.
To trim after the manner shown here,
arrange straight strips Of insertion at
the right side of The front as shown in
the picture, then cut straight strips OF
material to be one and one-half the
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

ing costumes for the woman who
strolls upon the beach with parasol
over her head or who looks on at the
game Of golf or who will sit on the
piazza Of the Country Club and dis
cuss the latest score, but it is hardly
suitable for the woman who means to
make a record and who perhaps will
be champion before the season is
closed.
Manufacturers, are perhaps, bit
over Jealous. There is limit to all
things and it is hardly wise OF SEN
sible to convert to Sports use,
materials of the most exquisite sort.
fabrics that are FAR better adapted to
afternoon visiting coats and to uses
of such sort. Among the latest out
put IF silks, is variation of the
Jersey that is woven in ribs and which
Is really superb in its richness OF
quality, in the depth of its color and
in the folds that it takes. 1t is costly,
too, as a matter of course, and it
might we'll have been reserved for
digni6ed uses. yet it is exploited as a
sports silk and already. the typical
sports coat has been seen made thereof.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

Perhaps ono OF the prettiest de-
velopments of the fancy for accessories,
takes the form of beach sets. The
set consists of hat, scarf, a parasol
and wrist bag all to match and the
very latest material is figured chiffon.
The bags are lined with white or with
colored satin to give them strength.
the shoulder scarfs are lined with
similar material to give them weight
and to make them practical and the
hats are treated in the most dainty
way. that is, with shirrings and puff
ings and little flowers to make them
charmingly picturesque and attractive.
They are really morning sets to be worn
upon the piazza or upon the lawn or
wherever one may be, but everything
is to have name in these days and
since these sets were first devised for
Palm Beach, they go forth under the
name of Beach sets to whatever use
they may be put or for whatever
occasion they may be used.
The fur scarfs that are being. ex-
plotted for the summer, have been
freely DISCUSSED in earlier letters, and
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

In the diagram that is shown on the
envelope, the pattern is. laid out on
material with the skirt on the length
wise fold. lit is cut from, houncing
no piecing will be necessary since the
desired length can be purchased. The
remaining edges will be placed exactly
as shown. For short sleeves and
round neck, cut the pattern out one
half inch beyond the indicating circles,
then lay it on the material as directed.
The PATTERNS new one with the seams
and the basting line, therefore, it is
necessary only to cut around the out
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

a high collar, a
great many Of the
so called Russian
blouses are made
with rolling collars
and with that
wonderful way
which we have OF
utterly disregard
ing the suitability
of a material to a
treatment. the
really Russian or
rather belted
blouses oil the net
have been shown
with big patch
pockets. That
the net is far too
delicate a material
to allow of such
pockets for in them
selves they weight
lit and pull it, does
not in any way
deter the designers
and manufacturers.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17
How to Make a Child's Fr0ck
Whio 1aee

! length Of the round neck. Whip lace
to one long edge rolling the edge as
you sew, gather the other edge. and
arrange over the little bodice. Then
undertake the neck edge. with bias
strip Of material taking both the ruffie
and the blouse in the seam Next,
close the seams of the sleeves using the
double seams already mentioned, then
gather at both the upper and lower
edges between the double crosses. To
finish the lower edges, cut two bands
of material two inches in width and
long enough to fit the little wearers
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

model is an exquisite shade of rnauve
hemmed with narrow band OF fine
white suede and worn with white
suede belt. Quite as matter OF
course. it will accompany white
skirt and preferably, that skirt will be
white silk of some sort or OF white
serge. The Russian idea is a con-
spicuous one and the Russian blouses
are found in silks and in similar ma
terials and also in net when they are
adapted to quite different uses Very
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

s@NHILDREN always can be relied
upon to stand in need of new
frocks at this season of the year.
Some Of those prepared during the
earlier season will have met with one
disaster or another, and such a little,
model as this one must find its welcome,
1t is very simple and easy garment to
make, yet it gives an exceedingly
smart and dainty result. In the
picture, the skirt is made of embroid-
cred founcing and the frock treated in
that way is extremely fashionable
while at the same time labor is greatly
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17
Worn

charming ones are made Of white net
to wear over silk skirts and they make
a rather dressy variation Of the Sc
pararte blouse idea. II they are
pretty enough and the accompanying
skirt is suitable, they make afternoon
costumes, but the model is one that
can be converted to use at almost any
hour OF the day. We no longer adhere
strictly to any given model, and while
the typical Russian blouse is closed
to the left shoulder and finished with
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

Suitability Is a
word that has be-
come nearly ex-
tinct. If the
threatened short
age in certain d.
rections we're to
teach us the proper
uses to which the
various materials
and treatments
should be put, it
would be far from
an entire mis-
fortune.
Among the later
developments OF
the sports idea
must be mentioned
the Russian blouses
of the jersey. silk
that is such a
favorite. 1t really
is a delightful sum-
mer material. A
verv charming
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

.DATHING suits this season are eminently
Il attractive and often give picturesque
effect. The one that is shown here makes
a good example Of the season at its best 1t is
short without exaggeration and it is made Of a
black and white striped satin trimmed with
plain black. The combination is as fashionable
as any that could be suggested but the silks and
satins for salt water use, provide a variety Of
plain colors and stripes. Plain silk or satin with
scalloped edges, bound, makes an exceedingly
handsome and a quaint suit. -E
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1916-06-17

reduced, but plain material can OF
course be used with the lower edge
hemmed or trimmed with ruffle or
finished in any way that may suit the
special mother, The process of making
will be the same, the only difference
required between the skirt Of houncing
and the skirt of material is to be found
in the cutting. For founcing, the edge
marked by three crosses must be laid
ontthe crosswise fold in place OF on the
lengthwise fold.
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1916-03-11
Die Y. M. c. A.

1mter6GIt Rohnlitta9s urb abeno.
aurie in @ngliid. 2eien, 56rei.
ben un6 8uhitabierelt, @lementar-
Iebre uro @ronntatif meroen ge-
lcbrt.
gla6mittogs iduIe Is Goge in Ser
@oAel $500 pro Monot.
46enoidule (D1outog, Mtittmoa,
6reitog) $3.50 per Morot.
9ei @rlanglttie Der eriteu ul6
5meiten 8iirgerpapiere miro uuent.
geltlid 9ot erteilt. 8remoe peroen
nj ieOer utoglifen 8eiie u~rteritiibt.
II. II. 6arneg Str. Sci. 3pler 1900.
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1916-03-11
ONDAQNSvN e. es' ss4
gOrseidrittenes gaabeuiae.
CALVE & GASPARRI

9tGaite ISOLDE: 9orriet gtorlotte s.
So. Renfol6s u 8onegan; @iIbert
Grnbs & Selen alton; Iburber &
Ma0iion; 6labiao, @eleL aend.
4nain 9rio; Crpbelm Reiie 8ode.
gldtmee tGglid 2t5. aben0s 8.15.
Breiie Mdtinees geite Site
25e. oitsgenommen 5amitne mo
5alrttag. GinIge tDenige 81 Soc.
@nIerie Zoe. glbenos: 10, Is, so
un0 75t.
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1916-03-11

Tlit unenoIihsm llubtboesn gina
Gr5eGeu5 BON Maindu in ibr,n Sim
msrn herum uoer maHts enDIoie BE,
Iprsungen, Ssnn INNER no9 nt6t
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19
|25TRGHHDREN
NILLENIERTAIN
|. SCH0FELD FOLKS
"Children's Evenings" at Big
Post Are Proving Very
Popular

/ Especial Star Bulletin correspondence
SCHOFTFhD BARRACKS, April 10.
This evening the 25th Infantry am
basement hall viii be devoted to an
entertainment given by the children
kof the regiment The entertainment
Twin be conducted by Mrs. o. ]. w.
Scott, Mrs. M. McInham Reynolds and
Mrs. Robertson. and viii consist prin-
Icipally Of songs and reeitations. The
"children,s evening" at the hall have
proved very popular with the regi-
ment and large attendance is ex-
pected. Chief Musician Leslie King
will be on hand with his excellent
band. A pretty program in three col
ors has been printed at the regimeHtal
print-shop. The program will be as
follows:
PART i.
Trio Happy Children We
( Miss Phyllis Reynolds, Master YER
non Reynolds, Miss Vivian Reynolds
Piano Duet Angels Serenade'
Miss Ruth Scott, Mrs. Scott
Recitation Prayer of Noah"
..........s.......M Miss Elese Lowe
Chorus Sleep Baby Sleep .......
Cherrie Spratling, Dolores Coleman,
Charles Owens, Kenneth Barbour,
10 Ito Lowe, Francis Knox. Dorothy.
Smith, Louise farrell, Louise
Sprague.
Recitation-"T Wreck of the
Ocean PET. Miss Bertha M. Patton.
PART. II.
Song and Chorus. Happy Easter
Bells" ............s. .....s.......
Miss Phyllis Reynolds, Miss Vivian
Reynolds, Master Vernon Reynolds.
Recitation Daddy" Miss Ruth Scott
Vocal Duet The Balmy Breeze"
Miss Viyian Reynolds, Master Yer
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19
PENINSULA SALE
STIRS INTEREST

The Peninsula property of Louis
Abrams viii be sold at auction by The
James F. Morgan Company, Ltd, next
Saturday at noon and much interest
is taken In the sale by prospective IN.
vestOrs and real estate men.
The property Is OF 26,140 square
feet, improved with i've bedroom
house, servants quarters, fernery.
garage, etc. The beach fronting on
the premises affords splendid bathing,
and there Is good llshinR close by.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19
WRITES OF HARDSHIPS
IN CHASE AF TER VILLA

Descriptive of the hardships for
men and horses met IN the chase after
Villa across the Mexican deserts, q
letter from Capt. James e. Fechet,
7th Cavalry. has Just been received
by his wife. Capt Fechet recently left
Honolulu for the mainland, being as
signed to duty on the border.
Forced travel and scarcity of food
and water are mentioned as among
the things which try the troops.
Horses In large numbers have died,
he says. Most Of the marches have
been made at night, and in two nights
of hard marching the captains COM
pany made IS miles.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19

non Reynolds.
Recitation Children's Easter Of 3
fering' $4,000. $500. .s......
Charles Owens. Vivian Reynolds.
Vernon Reynolds, 10 10 Love, Ken
meth Barbour.
Vocal Duet $ Daddy's Little Girl
/. Miss Ruth. Scott, Master James
Scott.
PART III.
Drill Butts Manual ...
Master Edgar Knox. Master Bur.
nett Barbour.
Vocal Solo, Nine ........
$500. $500. Master James Scott
Dialogue True ..,.......
Miss Dorothy Smith, Master Fran
els Knox
Chorus THE Laughing Song"
Miss Phyllis Reynolds. Miss Vivian
Reynolds, Master Vernon Reynolds.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19
ANSWERS MARRIAGE
QUERIES WITH Pen

Because she was unable to speak
her answers to the matrimonial que
ries as put by the minister. for the
reason that she is deaf mute, Miss
Mary Atapu wrote the necessary an
swers with q pen yesterday afternoon
during her marriage to George Naone.
The ceremony was performed BY Rev.
Samuel X. Kamaiopili, assistant pas
tor of Kaumakapili church, at his
residence. Mr.. and Mrs, Naone both
are Hawaiian.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19

twenty-five wireless stations in and
about San Antonio, Tex, have been
dismantled by federal officers.
Commander Theodore G. Fenton, u.
IS. N, retired, died at the naval hos
pital at Philadelphia, aged So.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19

Examined ana found correct. u.
Med. lie Breton, auditor.
Corresponding Secretary lie Breton
makes this reference to the fund and
the method of handling it:
In addition to the general fund of
the society. especial fund was Gre
ated during the year for the benefit
of the families of the men lost on the
submarine Ed off Honolulu in March,
1915. Many of these men left wives
and mothers entirely dependent on
them for support. and, were it mot
for the prompt action OF the relief
society these poor women would have
been left in destitute condition.
Over $4500 was received from Mrs G.
B. T.. Moore. donated by the citizens
of Honolulu for the benefit of these
families, to which amount was added
the proceeds Of a lecture organized by
ladies OF Washington, D. c.. and a
sum received from the q. s. s. Mary
land. These contributions, aggregat-
ing S6,413.01, were placed in the F-4
fund, which has enabled the society
to make a liberal monthly payment to
each widow and dependent mother,
deprived of their means of support
through that unfortunate accident. -
It is in the interests Of the general
navy relief fund that the ball is to
be given at the armory May II under
the auspices of the ladies' of the ma
val station headed by Mrs. c. j.
Boush. i.sfls
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1916-04-19
SPLENDID WORK
Of navy Relief
SOCIETY SHOWN
Twelfth Annual Report is Made
With Details of IA Fund
Distribution

Splendid work OF the Navy Relief
Society and its handling OF the "a
fund is brought TO, notice by the re.
ceipt in the last mail OF the twelfth
annual report OF the organization.
It viii be recalled that the F-4 is
practically the only special fund
which the organization has and the
value OF placing this money in the
hands of people who understand how
to distribute It so as to accomplish
the most good is at once apparent.
Assistant Treasurer Reynolds gives
the following detail Of the F4 fund
and its expenditure:
Receipts.
Fund collected at Honolulu. .$4,514.51
From U. S. s. Maryland ......s 844.50
Entertainment at Washington 1.05405
$s,413l0I
Expenditures.
To beneficiaries ...... 81, 90
Balance on hand Dee. 81, 1915 s.s17D l
ss,4ls.Ol
2. w. REYNOLDS, s
Assistant Treasurer, Navy Relief
The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1916-06-29

instrument on board a
ship. Its first use is to
MM direct the ships course:
~ and its second to take
- bearings. of which there
are two kinds: First, celestial
bearing of the sun, moon, stars
and planets, which are taken for
the purpose OF determining the
compass error; and second, terres-
trial bearings of points of land,
lighthouses, lightships, buoys, and
so forth, for the purpose of ascer-
tanning the position of the ship by
means of cross bearings.
The card, which is extremely
light, weighing about 1SO grains,
is supported on steel pin work
ing in a jewelled cap. 1T carries
six or eight magnetized needles on
It's under side, which, under the
influence of the earth's magnetism,
cause tito take up a north and
south direction. This arrange
ment mounted in a glass-covered
bronze bowl, which is carried in
gimbals, thus enabling the card to
retain a horizontal position while
the shipi is pitching and rolling. A
vertical black line called the Sub
ber's, line" is painted On the innerD
surfaceeof the compass bowl. Tbs
compass bowl and pinnacle are
placed in suchsa position that. the
lubber's line is in vertical line
with the ships keel aud at the for
ward side of the compass bowl.
The lubber's line is used tolenable
the helmsman To- steer cofroctay to
ia degree. ASbrassA cover, orcap,,
shaded somewhat Ikea bowl, and
having a glass window through
which the card is watched, and an
arran cement on each side FOR hold
ing lamps, is used ITO light the
Compass at night.
The compass card is divided on
Its periphery into $50 degrees,
frequently numbered from 0 de-
grees atnorth and south to 80 de-
greesN at east and west. Some
cards, however, are divided for 0
degrees at north to 800 degrees,
the numbers increasing to the
right. The four principal points,
north, south, east and west; these
are called cardinal points, each
differs in direction from the ad-
jacent one by 80 degrees, or 8
points. Half way between the
cardinal points, at an angular dis
tance of 45 degrees, or 4 points,
are the ter-cardinal points,
named northeast, southeast, north
west and southwest. Midway be-
tween each cardinal and inter-car-
dinal point, at an angular distance
of 229 degrees or 2 points, is a
point whose name is made up of
that of the cardinal and inter-car-
dinal point north-northeast,
east-northeast, east southeast, and
so on. At distance of one point
or Tx degrees from the cardinal
and inter- cardinal points is point
which bears the name of that car
dinal or inter-cardinal point joined
by the word by" to that of the
cardinal point in the direction of
which it lies; as north by east,
northeast by north. The Tx de-
grees between the last mentioned
points are divided into four parts
called quarter points.
There are two types of magnetic
compass in use; the liquid. or wet,
and the dry. The bowl of the
liquid compass is filled with liquid;
usually solution of alcohol and
oil. The card is thus partially
buoyed with consequent increased
ease of working on the pivot, and
the liquid further acting as a
shock absorber to decrease the vi
bratiOns of the card when DETECTED
by reason of the motion of the
The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1916-06-29
wo out when winning run was scored.

Two out when winning run was scored.
Hammond / 0 2-l0
M, S. P.-0 l 0 l l 3-lI
SUMMARY:-First on errors: Hammond 6: M. S.
P5 Left on bases: Hammond I2: NJ. S. P. Q.
Stolen bases: Conrad, Gardner, White, Brad,
Fan. Della. Sacrifice hits: Dineen, Viii 2, Lee,
Shields. Two-base hits Bush Wag 2, Shields.
Three-base hits: Fan. HOme-run: Bush. In
nings pitched: by Quinn. 8; by White, 8; by
Dineen. 5; by Lee. I; by Van. g; by Brad. l: by
Wag, l. Hits: off Quinn. 4; off White. s; off Di-
neen, Z: off Lee 10: off Van. 2; off Brad g. Struck
out: by Quinn, 2: by Dineen, 5; by Lee, 4; by
Van, 8; by Brad,l. Bases on balls: off Quinn. |;
off White, 1; off Dineen, g. off Lee, 5; off Van, l:
off Brad, 8. Wild pitch: Wag. Hit by pitcher:
by Dineen, s: by Brad, l.. Passed balls: Quinn,
1; Wag, l. Time of game, $50. Umpire, Tolen.