The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-05-31
FRENCH WINES.
How They Have Helped the Soldiers
Of the Republic.

Professor Letulle has written n de-
lightful address on alcohol, which is
now published in the Rcuue ScientifQue
by the authority of the Academy Of
Medicine. 1t is an eloquent appeal to the
soldier. and Is presumably written to
save those who crave alcohol for alco-
hol's sake. 1t gives the information
wanted by the soldier who has not
the time or inclination to plunge into
the toast and water discussion, Of the
subject. Most Of the questions per-
picking to the layman are answered
In these rules and the reader finds an
admirable discrimination between the
different kinds Of drink.
The professor puts up q warning
against distilled liquors. as distin-
guished from the fermented. and
adopts as q standard for the troops
the fermented wines OF France az we'll
as other fermented drinks like beer
and cider. In most cases French SOL
diers have happily escaped from the
habit Of taking absinthe. This evil Is
fortunately a localized III. and escape
has come through a we'll taught and
strong minded resolution to leave the
stun alone. NJ. Reinach. indeed, has
pointed out hat the worst effects Of
alcohol are seldom witnessed in the
vineyards. and he asserts that alcohol
ism did not exist in France before the
imports Of industrial spirit.
Professor Letulle records the proud
prominence Of French wines. There Is
even a touch of poetry in his rules
and dlction. He writes In the spirit
Of much that has been said and suns
In all languages Of the great "crus''
OF France. The excellence Of these
wines a been u%ndisputed since the
fifteenth century, when the most cele-
brated vlntages are mentioned for the
first time. OF late years the price OF
claret has ruled higher than hat OF
other red wines. yet II has been able
TO hold its own Notwithstanding the
ravages OF the phylloxera and the
adulteration which at one time was
damaging claret in the British and
American markets.
In a military and medical sense
French wines hold an exceptional
position. Among French soldiers
coming from districts devoted en-
tirely to vineyards. alcoholism. or
the abnormal effects OF alcohol,
Is almost unknown. According TO
medical authorities this freedom from
the nervous disorders caused by alco-
hol is the result OF the wonderful
bouquet and aroma which distinguish
French wines and brandy from sp.r-
its distilled from cereals. Something
OF the mellow maturity OF autumn
M the glory OF fading leaves lies in
these old "crus' OF France. which the
soldier ven :.ow enjoys. These quail
ties OF richness and color are due In
the first place TO the richness OF the
soil, and secondly to the way in which
the must IL cultivated. This Is accom-
plished by careful fermentation and the
must which collects Is not drawn off
until IL has not only cooled hut become
thoroughly clear. which takes from
eighteen to twenty days. The wine thus
made Is not affected by mildew or ex-
posture TO bad weather. is far healthier
than spirits. !ts quality is more equa-
bile. while its body and bouquet are
substantially improved. The wine Is
drawn off when there Is no more sugar
in the must. When kept II has an
aroma y. rose ard violo'. an We
d@,ictt. amhrh", the body which grow
IN bottle is what the Frenchman ap.
prcC.a'es,
In these wines, continues Professor
Letu'ic. the alcohol is neutralized by
GcmUlcents. Ike glycer!re, as~trincents.
Ike tannin. and refreshing acids. He
writes like n sensible man. He IL \
chemist. hut he writes for the expc.
rienced man. who without learning IN
the psychology OF alcohol is able 20
know exactly the condition ~ hts head
the next morning. Scotch or Irish, ar
can know the exact distinction by the
delicate nervou promptingS from the
base of his skull. The professor knows
this. hut he wears his learning with
a Gall!c ease. lie admits hat there -
no chemical formula for the sensations
that rad!ate from the back ~ a mans
head the next morning, hu. nothing
is more certain than tho existence Of
these after distilled liquors. Fer
men.od wines. however, are a helm 20
the soldier. lie has a grievance
agains, John Rarloycorn. hu. II Is no
doubt q grievance that IS al tho bot
ter for ventilation.
The conviction after reading this
address "a French soldiers ~ that tho
blame. " blame there ne. Is rot all
or one side.