Evening star., 1916-10-01
Narrow Skirts From French Workshops

over the arm. although some of them
we're managed in the old way by .
ribbon loop placed near the hem ana
slipped over the wrist. This is the
more secure way, although it II not
as graceful as the other.
The new gowns have detached
trains of embroidered velvet lined with
a contrasting color of satin. and some-
times partly lined with fur. in medic.
val fashion. Doeuillet has an immense.
ly attractive evening frock of oxidiz-
ed gray net, heavily embroidered with
tarnished silver roses dropped over
flesh pink satin. with part of tho
bodice and the sides and back of the
skirt, which extends into a long train.
made of dahlia-red velvet.
The balance Of dignity in the new
fashions is thrown on the side of tho
long evening skirt with the train. but
a remnant of the present fashion Is
in a short line across the exact front
of the skirt. No French designer
seems to have considered whether The
skirt was long or moderately short.
however. in placing a train on 1t. When
there is so much uniformity of opinion
among the French houses as is shown
in this. it is only fair to believe that
America will accept skirts with trains.
Not only Callot, but several other Of
the designers have Endorsed with en-
thusiasm the gown with the finely
pleated skirt; above it is a long waists
ed, straight bodice made of metal-em-
broidered net.
One of the best models built in this
manner is of pearl-gray satin cloth,
the entire skirt of which is laid in
eighth-inch pleats and a glitering cut
rass bodice made of gray net, heavily
embroidered in silver threads and gray
silk floss.
Walking suits from the best houses
have finely pleated satin skirts. weight
ed at the hem by Gothic points of deIis
cate soutaching and fancy stitching
| combined. and the coat, which is quite
| as apt to be long as short. will also
be edged below the waist with these
points of ornament. often belted
across the front only with wide
girdle of metallic embroidery.
Nine. Paquin has herself created an
exceedingly good looking street suit
of velour, in that rich, warm tone once
| known as dregs of wine. The skirt In
| laid in two-inch pleats with fatty
| ornamented hem, and the jacket Is
| nipped in sharply in two places at the
| back to allow the material to sag over
1t: the wide right front is carried well
across the figure at neck and waist.
| This coat does not extend more than
| three or four inches below the normal
| waist line, and the top of it is finished
| with one of those new collars that
| wrap around the neck like a muffier:
| it is made of bright. warm tone Of
| red velvet edged with gray rabbit.
| I This story of clothes is too far ad-
| vanced to go deeply into the subject
| of the draped collars of the hour but
| just a word to put you on the sharp
| lookout for them. The American de-
| signers call them guardsmen's capes:
| the French designers name them after.
| the revolution, but on neither conti-
| nent have they ever been worn they
| will be worn this winter. They Will
no longer remain over the shoulders,
| but will be pulled up to the brim OF
| the hat in the back. and up and across
| the chin in front.
To see just such collar at a smart
| fashion opening is like regarding q
| lightning change artist. 1t hangs to
the waist, it mounts to the crown OF
| the head, it is thrown around the neck
| twice like a muff1er, and 1t is sharply
| pointed at each ear and sedately drawn
across the breast to form a kerchief.
| These collars are made of velvet
| edged with fur, and Of all kinds of soft
peltry.