davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1916-08-24
COPPERS N Y
Boston Stock Market

when issued.
The sun., 1916-11-12

could wear. and there arc too very
wparahle low hcrcts of fur with small
hrlms. turbans of fur, close fitting. long
and sloping from very moderate height
in front up 20 n high peak in tn back,
little bonnets of fur with the smallest
of visor or poke brims in front.
After mole. ermine, rabbit, Kolinsky
and seal are perhaps the m!llincr's IA
vorite furs; but all of the dyed and
cleverly treated furs In imitation of
handsomer pelts are put to use.
Where the hat Is not wholly of fur
or made with a fur crown above a
have a close fitting brim OF fur topped
by a draped crown Of velvet, or to have
at least a trimming OF fur.
And with these fur hats and fur
trimmed hats go the most delectable
OF neck furs, muffs, bags. Almost any
scraps of fur will furnish the founda-
ton for n neck piece and mum if the
woman in possession OF them will look
about patiently enough for models to
copy. Velvet or silk or chiffon may be
made to bear the brunt Of the respon-
sihility, with the fur used merely as
accent.
A high, wrinkled chin stock of vel
vet, for example. may be hordcr~d at
the top by fur. held in front b. fur
buttons, and il will look uncommonly
chic in company with n fur banded
velvet turban and a little drapcG muff
of velvet with fur heading its end
friIlS IN a 1ouble frill mr. piprrpt
The sun., 1916-11-12

without going In for the anatomical
revelations of the too narrow skirt.
Ehe one piece frock Is simple and
practical. the top coats. even in cheep
versions, are comfortable and good
LOOKING garments. the suits are varied.
PUT not. as a rule, extreme: sleeves
ana skirt lengths are fairly conserya-
tive; colors for street wear are. in the
main, rich but sober; evening clothes
are sometimes striking. but almost in
variably graceful.
Yes. this is to be n season of attrac-
tive clothes for m The eScep-
TONS which are many. only emDha-
size the rule.
n goodly proportion OF these excep-
tons are to be found in the new mil
lincry. There are quantities OF charm
ins mats. but there are also quantities
Of very try ng hats, and it often hap
pens that ;he charming models are the
trying ONES.
The general tendency Of the small
hats To fit closely around The head and
Hare outward as they ascend or to run
up to egregious heights on fairly
straight lines is not IA tendency fat
tering to the average face. and the
tiny mushroom or cloche brim that Is
the usual alternative TO the hard close
line about the forehead is trying too:
but 1t IL difficult to find the little roll
ing brim that is kind to the face and
the couture beneath.
Some of the small models, notably
those from Lewis, soa to dizzy heights.
and willie enormously chic upon Just
h right type OF woman. are pure
caricaturc upon nine out Of ten women
who try them on. The height may he
attained through an outstanding velvet
frill If exaggerated aspirations. bv a
straight small crown climbing far TO
break at last into an oddly drapcd
swirl of bcret. by an arrangement of
outstanding plumes or wings. by a
soaring bow, in any n of multitudi-
nous ways.
Hussar and g%reuadier ideas enter
n these high narrow models: and
while some Of them are more thar a
bit spectacular and all are somewhat
extreme for conservative taste. there
* no denying that certain models Of
this type are vastly piquant when we'll
worn. one III particular. very high.
small and round Of crown and in n
black felt that looked like velour
with a tiny v.sorlike brim in front and
an ornamcn Of coque plumage stand
ing straight in 'front.' and ~softening the
front angles of the uncompromising
crown was worn at "a popular tea
place by a slim. erect. good looking
brunette In a trim tailored costume Of
deep green vclours de lainc. collared
high in fur. II looked extraordinarily
mar IN. it is doubtful whether any
uther woman IN the 70 m could have
worn it with equal success.
\propos Of ieathery iluinagc. the
milliners are showing many towering
shapes whose lines are carried high by
exquisite paradise al heron feathers.
Has imitation reached perfection. or
have the plumage laws beer moditicdr
Close fitting. draped velvet turhans
whose drapery Is swept III 10 great
height al some point and brought down
The sun., 1916-11-12

often swcl's to proportions hat make
il an acceptable substitute for a coat
IN all save bitterly cold DAYS.
Tho long. wide, straight. supple scarf
of fur is still one of the neck furs
much liked for this use, and such a
scarf is matched up with hat, mum
and perhaps bag OF the very latest
types.
In the Fifth venue crowd a few
days ago "A pretty blond girl wore a
tailored suit OF tornado blue suede
cloth, and with 1t a Russian turhan OF
mol"skin, trimmed In a brush Of dull
silver threads held by a cabochon of
coral vclours de lame heavily emhroid-
cred in gold and silver. She carried n
round muff OF moIeskin and swathed
round her shoulders and throat, with
the ends hanging down each side of
the back, was a wide, long scarf of
mole lined in coral vclours de laine.
The cape in one form or another Is
perhaps the most modish of the large
neck furs, though not so becoming TO
some women as the scarf, and II is
presented in many different lengths
and shapes,
one model falling in a sharp point
TO waist depth in the back. rounding
upward to n high waist line in front.
fullcd "A little around the neck and sur
mounted by a big soft roll or stock
collar, is mad up with slight varia-
lions in all Of the modish furs. Round
capes. square capcs, long Capcs. short
cape collars. capes in one fur and
apes combining two furs are all worn
The sun., 1916-11-12

little velvet cherries falling like mar
row fringe from the outer edge OF his
crown.
II YOU like your cherries growing
high and without any special spanish
flavor. choose "a pannc velva hat with
straight three inch hrim. straight and
slightly. high drapcd crown and trim
mincs NJ velvet cherries posed closely
all around the top of this crown. Pos
sibly "A very narrow line of fur runs
The sun., 1916-11-12

the relieving ornament of a tailored
hat.
4 good deal is done with ostrich
feathers handled In a new way in
stead Of being used in clusters of
plumcs. The f,ies are laid Nat over
velvet or silk ~ form n soft band
trimming and urod merely as 4 band.
or perhaps continued into an upstand-
Ing ring above the band.
Tins ,ipr ~ ostrich are laid about
the edge uf a wide hr!m. ana occasion
ally a cluster Of these minute tips Is
posed f~etchinrly soincwher" on hrim
nr crown. but Of the beautiful big
ostrich p'rins there IS less than last
seas MS tentative revival led one TO
expect.
EXtravaGantly large hats are 10 he
seen ~ every good millinery shop: and
most Of them are beautiful ever when
too enormous for the average" w"tnuu's
wear. The ultra large hat came in
last season. but seems to have waited
until this autumn for popularity; and
even now II is viewed askancc by the
conservative and tho practical.
In the frs, place It must, be supcrla-
lively well handled tn bc successful.
Its beauty Is SO greatly n matter of
linc that only - master artists hand
can give It's spreading brim Just tho
right droup hcrc. just tho right lift
there. and the master artists work il
expensive.
The very large hat must he en-
phatically a thing Of elegance. Ifone
cannot afford to pay for the elegance
a model of medium n small size is q
safer choice than The extremely large
The sun., 1916-11-12

model. Moreover. tho extremely large
hat snuffs out the ordinary face and
figure. n it's relation to the figure Is
evcn more important than its relation
10 the face. n fact which many women
do not seem to appreciate.
Among In" unusually large hats ~
tho season there Is considerable di-
vcrsity OF crown and hrim. Round
low WI straight low crowns.
straight high crowns and modified
heret Crowns are al used, and tho
wide brims droop here or there, accord
ing To the inspiration Of the designer.
Some Of tho hrims are straight. hut
extra width curves. even If slight
ones are moro desirable than the per-
fectly straight line. Tho wide brim
dropping slightly at the sides. tn"
nrim dropping NJ ono side hat lifted "A
little on the other. the hrim dropping
AL around and perhaps narrower in
front than elsewhere. the brim turned
MP abruptly IN front. the hrim rolled
back upon itself NJ the loft front and
straight or dropping elsewhere all
these variations are modish and the
trimming may he what one prefers. Il
swe. ping spray OF feather, a single
flower or metallic ornament, "A hand 81
bow of fur.
\ majority Of those hypcr-larGc hats
arc in velvet. hut silk and plush and
black lace and metallic lace are al.
used for such models. and n number
Of the latest dress hats show wild"
frill hrims of the black lace turned
mp IN halo fashion against tho front
"f III" crown. the rest Of the hat being
Of velvet.
The sun., 1916-11-12
BY ELEANOR HoYT BRAINERD.

r NERYWHERE one looks In a
r. crowd one sees fur. There is
- fur on the frock. fur on the
coat. fur on the hat, fur for the nun,
fur for the bag. fur for the cape or
stole or collar, and since Of course all
the world cannot go clad in costly pelts
every animal whose coat Is susceptible
OF manipulating and dyeing into imi-
tation OF tho costly fur or even into "A
charm Of its own is sacrificed to fash
ION.
In millinery one finds fur used more
boldly than It Is usually-less in mar
row landings. more as a material.
There are countless turbans entirely or
almost entirely OF fur. and they are
among the most attractive small hats
of the winter.
The lighter, suppler furs that can be
handled like fabric are OF course those
most often chosen for such models,
moleskin being in first place, and
there are shapes to please all tastes.
The Cossack or other Russian models,
trimmed with some stiff straight brush
or feather fancy posed in front, the
trimming usually held by IA Jewelled
or metal embroidered ornament, Is a
prime favorite, and, II not too high, is
not very trying,
More extreme %grenadier models in
fur are FOR the few. as are the high,
narrow, soft, bcret crowns Of fur above
tiny dropping brims of felt or velvet
but there are low, boat shaped fur tur
bans. given height by some rakish bit
of trimming. that almost any woman
The sun., 1916-11-12

mcrcst line TO the gigantic and pic
turcsIuc brim Haunted by many a
handsome dress hat.
The moderate brimmcd hats OF this
class will probably not be shown until
after IN extreme and dashing
models have been urged upon the
scarchcr. but they will appear at last
and somr of them succced in looking
distinctly modish. despite their tingc
Of conservatism in contour.
The straight brim IL rather more in
evidence than the roll brim in these
mo .els. hut roll brims are numerous
too. and hrinis dropping all around are
shown in many widths. The straight
hrimmcd low crowned hats are some
times given a Spanish note-a note,
10y the way. that In elusive form is
recognized 10y many OF the French de-
s.Cncrs this season. one Is not asked
20 pose C~armen-wise. but some slight
touch given to a hat testihcs to Span
ish influence without accomplishing
the point.
one Partisan house has sent out de-
liGhtful velvet hats. straight and mod
erately low Of crown. straight Of hrim
and trimmed around the brim edge
with little velvet cherries. The hrim
may he anywhere from three inches
to six or eve inches In width.
Another French milliner lets the
tiny velvet balls or cherries danglc
from the brim edge by very short
threads In fringe fashion. instead OF
applying them directly to the brim.
Still another builds up a turhan fitting
closely and rising straight hut naring
into n little soft fiat beret crow with
The sun., 1916-11-12
a, ELEANOR HoYT BRAINERD.

n REssMAKERs' manufacturers
merchants, have had their in
- nings. 80 far as winter fish
ions are concerned. Now the women
are rendering their verdict. After all
the last word is theirs. and many a
node tentatively launched in August
or September meets shipwreck when
the winter season is fairly on, whom
the women have selected from what
IL offered them the things they like
and want to wear.
Not that the women always choose
wisely. The feminine crowd IL not to
BE- depended upon in matters OF taste
and its psychology Of dress il a won
lerful and fearful thing. but II makes
M choice according to some whimsical
rule Of its own. and while here and
there a woman Of individuality and
excellent taste may try to stem the
tide, 1t is the crowd that creates the
fashion atmosphere that makes a
seasons modes attractive or ugly. fam
Astic or conservative.
And now that November Is here
and Horse Show, opera. social func-
tons are on the taps. winter modes
are crystallizing. "Crystall!zing" is a
poor word for any process involving
90 much OF s%oftness. Of flowing ampli-
tude. Everywhere one looks one sees
/ supple folds and velvety or furry sur
' faces.
The woman who has bought her
winter wardrobe on upper Fifth aves
nue. and its neighbor.ng side streets
may have expensive fur and satin and
velvet and cloths. and the lite fac
tory girl who does her shopping on
Grand street or Fourteenth street may
b. wearing cheap velvet and satin and
cloth and imitation fur. but the family
resemblance between models and ma
terials Is very distinct. THE Coloncl's
Aohs III !Aths . ~ ElSt'lS
not only under the skin" but outside
the skin nowadays. and though Grand
street may NOT have so much to do
with making the modes as i'!fth ave-
nrc. its crowd is "a quick to swing
into the current of thosc modes as the
crowd that swarms in, the uptown
shopping district.
So to read winter modes Alright one
must take the whole Of Manhattan into
account. though for fashions high
lights one Zoos to tho exclusive shops
and the folk who make up the clientele
~ such shops; and the whole Of Man
haitian Is apparently Ia dress rather
better than usual this season.
Wherever one sees "A mixed crowd
one is impressed by THE fact hat there
II more taste and less frcakishncss
abroad than there has becn in recent
seasons. We have lost tn" aggressive
fare. rcga.ned the straight silhouette
The sun., 1916-11-12
STRENGTH OF E
y ECENT experiment. with insects

have demonstrated their re-
markahlc muscular power. y
wood hectic weighing lS6 Grammcs and
less than two inches long can pun a
little wagon loaded with ffty-six
erammcs, or thirty times its "
weight. When a load OF c~ighty-tpur
grammos was piled on the wagon the
beetle pulled il an inch; this was
forty-hvc lines It's own weight. When
It's legs were attached 10 a small dyna-
momcter tho insect oNcrtcd q force of
fifteen Srammcs which is az IL a man
Weighing 200 pounds were able TO raise
a ton
A Hercules beetle proved his right
To the appcliatiOn, FOR though he
weighed only 90 Grammcs and was
only three inches long, he pulled III
gramnlcs and walked off with n weight
OF five pounds on his back. II a pro-
p%ortionatc weight were put on "A man
he would he crushed TO death.
\ houscny, held by the wings and
brought close to a match, lifted 1t up
by its feet. To perform a proportion
ate feat a man would have to lift a
lean twenty-siX feet long and thir-
Teen inches thich.
II is an old story that a flea can
jump 200 times its own height in the
air. \ man would have To jump over
the 1000 foot high Eiffel Tower to
equal the feat,
The muscles in insects are actually
much larger proportionately than in
man. Prof \. Schmidt estimates that
if n ant can pull an object OF ten
times It's W weight n man would
equal the task IL he lifted a weight onc-
twentieth that, of his body. This is
%expiicable on tho basis of the far
greater muscular equipment Of the ant,
a. compared with man.
The sun., 1916-11-12

low on the other side are good looking
If drapcd by Al artist. hut practically
all of the small high hats hav the
very narrow line Just above the brim
edge, and this is the line hat is trying
to so many faces-to all full faces
and that makes exigent demands upon
the couture.
with this limo filled in or widcncd
"a hat becomes more woat1blc. hut as "a
llOrr!tied mil,incr walled Whcn the
heresy WAS ~propounded tn her.
Madame. tho hat loses all of is
cachct. is not az tn" moment So
there YOU are. madame Of the fuil face
YuG may lac of the moment or YOU may
look what conservative friends con-
slider your best.
Still. it is possible to combine the two
The sun., 1916-11-12

results. II you rorsakc the province Of
the high and narrow crowned hat.
Possibly you can wear successfully
one NJ the shapes that INT close around
the forehead but flare outward from
the instant OF starting aud So el!mi-
nate the narrowed in line just above
the top of the head. There are host
ut these shapes. often approaching
tricuruc lines and usually depending
almost entirely upon clever ilU"S for
their modlshncss. IN" trimming being
but a single ornament of some Kind.
And 4 this kind of hat is u" more
becoming than the y that Is ttll and
narrow, try a low crowned, hrlmmci
model. oh. yes, they are 20 be found,
{ plenty OF them. IN many crown shapes
and in all widths of hrim from the
The sun., 1916-11-12

rhincstones and posed we'll up on IN"
left ron of the rather high fur crown
one could multiply Instances Of such
Coduetry indefinitely. hut every crowd
nowadays furnishes Illustration Of the
point involved.
The sun., 1916-11-12
SMALL HATS FLARE AND SOAR, BIG HATS TWIST AND G

Both Kinds May Be Charming and
Also Trying to the Face of Any
but the Right Woman---Hussar and
Crenadier Types Notably Piquant
When Well Worn---The Spanish Note
Seen in Some Straight Brimmed,
Low Crowned Hats From Paris
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-04-28
School Diplomas Granted
in Cumberland County
Stecial 10 he Telegraph

Carlisle, Pa, April %. - Announce
ment was to-day made here by County
superintendent of Schools ]. Kelso
Green, fthe persons in the county
who have made a sufficiently high
average in the recent examinations
and who have been granted common
school diplomas. A number of lower
end pupils are included among them
being:
New Cumberland - Mae Naomi
Conley Rose l.. Cramer, Mabel Eckert,
John owen, Emanuel Reiff.
Camp Hill-Katharine NJ. Goosz,
Lawrence Il. Shuckman.
Allen-Miriam Neisley, Edna Enck,
Clara Strickler, Alma M. Niskey, Ida
Romano Enck, Arthur Enck.
Mechanicsburg Al;ce Duncan,
John c. Zacharias.
Others are: Mary Anderson. Bow
mansdale: Rachael Flower, Ethel
Kraybill, Boiling Springs; Helen SUIT
ton. Lillian c. Walker. Raymond Il.
Raudabaugh, New Kingston.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-04-28

in the potato growers buying their
seed promiscuously throughout the
country and they expect to get good
seed. ! know that sometimes we do
get good seed in this way. but usually
the odds are against us and we run big
chances of not only getting a moor
Yielding strain, but disease as we'll
'lhe main reason why potato seed tends
TO deteriorate for a grower is because
he has not selected it properly.
The usual method of selecting seed
IS from the bin, but here you cannot
tell whether a particular tuber that
you may select comes from a high
yielding hill or from a low yielding
one. The hill is the individual and il
will reproduce itself TO large extent.
| am satisfied that there is no easier
method of increasing your potato Yield
than by hill selection in the field. 1t
requires some little time to do this.
but YOU cannot spend your time to bet
ter advantage.
THE proper place and time to select
potato seed is in the field during the
summer time when the stalks are in
good condition. Go through the field
at this time of the year and with small
stakes or wires mark the best hills.
Then in the Fall, before digging time.
take up these stalks, discarding ali
such that do not come up to YOUR
standard. and you will have the very
best possible seed. If you are grow
ing potatoes very extensively, select
sufficient seed for a seed plot and use
the potatoes from this plot for your
main planting.
THE seconds in the high Welding
hill are worth as much for seed as the
prime tubers, but don't get into the
habit of using seconds entirely for
seed, because the great majority of
your seconds come from the low yield
ing hills.
"Oftentimes we have difficulty here
in Pennsylvania TO keep the seed from
sprouting early in the Spring. If YOU
do not have a good cellar in which to
store your seed. l would advise bury
ing it. There is a little more work
connected with this operation, but
when property done the tubers come
out in good shape"
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-04-28
GOOD SEED NEED
OF POTATO PATCH
State Department of Agricul-
ture Presents Views on Rails
ing Fine Crops

The use of good seed in potato plant
ing is being urged on Central Penn
sylvania farmers by Sheldon w. Funk,
farm adviser of the State Department
Of Agriculture, who declares that there
are four essentials for success with po-
'tatoes. soil and fertilizer already being
discussed.
Speaking of seed Mr.. Funk says:
THE use of good seed in potato plant
ing, believe, has been neglected more
than any other single. factor. Many
people have come to believe that if
they use their own seed for several
years the potatoes tend to run out. or
in other words deteriorate. This results
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-04-28

"Fatty" Arbuckle will appear at the
Colonial to-day and tomorrow in
new two-reel Key
Funny "Fntty" stone comedy called
ArbuclSIe at His Wife's Mistake"
the Colonial that is filled with
funny situations. In
this feature Arbuclle will be supported
by an all-star Keystone cast. On the
same program are two ell-known
stars of the speaking stage, who will
be pleasantly remembered for their
parts i'm previous Triangle plays. will
liam Desmond. who has appeared at
the Colonial i'm Peggy and Bullets
and Brown Ewes" and Jane Grey who
played the leading role in Let Kitty Do
It," will appear i'm a new human inter-
est play called WAITS" i'm which Ar
thur Raeburn CWilliam Desmond), a
young theological student, is made the
victim of practical iokers among the
upper classmen at the seminary. when
a punch served at the reception follow
ing his ordination is strengthened with
rum. The bishop unfrocks him as soon
his condition becomes apparent.
Rene. the bishops daughter. with whom
Raeburn is i'm love, repudiates him In
his despair Raeburn drifts to the slums
where he falls under the influence Of
Rags tJane Grey), a pretty piano player
in a saloon. She falls in love with him
and attempts to redeem him, which she
does in most interesting manner.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-04-28
4AEPLAYy|EHE*TH 2|H /! y i;
sA!s,4A1k i Electrical Attraction };y..7aS
TRre.S!ent. .oqd FutureS'~ ~

can actress. will be seen at the Regent
to-day only in n re-
Fannie Ward In turn engagement of
"The Cheat" at The Cheat" a Jesse
the Regent i. LaslSY production
presented by Para
mount
Miss Ward is seen as an extravagant.
frivolous member of Long Islands
smart set. She, unfortunately, CANDLES
and loses a $4,000 Red Cross Fund en-
trusted to her care How she secures
the money from a wealthy Japanese and
In attempting to repay arouSes his
anger and is branded on the shoulder
with a red-hot iron, are but few of
the thrilling incidents.
Miss Ward Is given an opportunity to
display her wonderful. collection OF
Jewels, and a number of the latest
Partisan gowns.
Miss Ward is supported by n cast Of
unusual excellence, including the Jap
anese actor. Sessue Hayakawa.
Tomorrow only, the distinguished
American actress. Helen Ware, will ap-
pear in Secret Love a dramatization
of Frances Hodgson Burnett's novel,
THAT Lass o Lowries."
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1916-04-28

Human Driftwood" the World
Film feature. with Robert Warwick
and Frances Nell
"HumRn DriftwOod" son. at the Vic
nt the Victoria toria Theater to-
dav. tells in n
dramatic way the story of a rich young
bachelor who becomes infatuated by a
on his good graces to gain admittance
to his apartment, I'm which she later
admits her pals; band of crooks. who
attempt to rob Hendricks safe.
Years later as the head of reform
society, Hendrck is sent for 10 clean
up the vile conditions existing in an
Alaskan mining camp
He is confronted there by terrible
conditions, made so through the sim
ister influence of a bad woman. There
is girl in the camp whose presence
mas been an enigma to the miners