davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1916-10-29

oils upon germs usually found in the
air. on walls or on the human body the
experimental tests were made as fol-
lows:
The end OF a fine platinum wire was
covered with selatine containing the
culture to be tested. This wire was
fixed into a cork and the cork put into
the end Of a test tube. In the bottom Of
which was some of the oil used. At
the end Of a given time sterilized eela-
tine was pricked by the germ bearing
wire and then heated TO bring about
growth. The bacteria tested in this
way were golden staphylococcus. strep-
tococcus. colibacilli. tetragenii and
bacilli virgule. OF the five 1t was
found that the golden staphylococci
had the greatest power OF resistance.
1t was found that the germs were
still alive after being exposed to the
vapors Of the following oils for sew
enty.two hours: Angelica. patchouli.
lemon. bitter orange. Juniper and san
DIAL, but were killed when exposed Ia
French geranium, peppermint, orig
anum, pine and thyme, Exposure fog
sixty hours was long enough to Kill
the germs with the scent of absinthe,
cedar. cubeb, Algerian geranium, and
forty-eight hours was sufficient 70
sterilizs by the rehabilitation from
Ceylon and Chinese cinnamon, Glove
lavender. French and Indian verbena
extract Of Jasmine and tuberose.
Results were more or less contra.
dictory when tests were made fol
forty-eight hours or less. Sometimes
germs seemed TO be dead after twenty
four hours. and in other cases the
same germs were alive after thirty-siS
hours Of exposure. Further expert
ments showed hat the t%etragene
bacilli we're killed In forty-eight hours
by all the oils except bitter orange
peppermint and cubeb.
Streptococcus wa killed In forty
eight hours by all the oils except bitter
orange. The virgule bacillus was mad,
innocuous by all the oils after only
four hours. Colibacilli could not re-
sist the vapors for twenty-four hours
of Ceylon cinnamon, Glove, French
verbena and t~uberose. The COLDER
s~taphylococci We're also killed In TWEEN
ty-four hours by the evaporation from
Ceylon and Chinese cinnamon. lavcn'
der. Glove. verbena, jasmine and tube
rose.
Further experiments went TO prove
that many OF the bacteria were KILLED
in less than an hour by the vaporizi'
ton from the oils mentioned, and n
some instances only IA few minutes o.
exposure TO these oils meant death e
the germs.
The sun., 1916-10-29
frock of blue satin.

little models have delicate embroidery
in rh.nestones upon the foundation
slips. twinkling elusively through cob
web and moonshine Of fine silver laces
and colored tulles.
Much black Is 10 he worn In the
evenings his winter, a fact that will
delig..: the Of limited dress
allowance. for a smart black evening
frock gives better service than any
other. Quantities OF Jet will he used
as trimming and crystal will often be
used with II.
Black and gold and black with silver
are both chic, and there Is a strong
feeling for black and white once more.
White satin embroidered IN Jet COM
n.ued with black vclvet or with black
nile Is sponsoret - numerous good
houses.
Gray evening frocks are also exceed
inr,y good style. and with silver and
The sun., 1916-10-29
|SUPERCHIC EVENING WRAPS

was unilstened and allowed to drop,
70. the scarfs came into play, tighten
inC across the shoulders and. though
almost invisible, holding the coat ~
that the wide fur collar ran like a
broad fur band around the figure at
the dropped shoulder line to where
the soft folds were caught up al the
bust in front.
Ermine Is much used on the evening
coat. so are kolinski, ~chinchilla. ssuir-
rel. taupo, fox. all the fashionable peits.
Velvet. plain or b~rocaded. is perhaps
first favorite in materials, but the
wonderful satin brocades and the
hyper modish metallic brocades are in
great demand for evening coat pur-
poses.
Plain satin IL modish too but must
he used with great ~prodigali,y ami
heavily fur trimmed II II Is to have
the right air.
For loss expensive coats the velr
tina class Of velvets and the beautiful
velvety Woollens in light and vivid
co'orings are excellent. and properly
made and fur trimmed such a coat
achieves considerable smartness and
harm, even thought It cannot rival
models made OF the wonder fabrics
that this season has brought forth.
Many cape models are offered, enor-
mously full and sweeping. but OF ma
terials too soft for awkwardness. and
there are. too. combination cape ana
coat arrangements that suggest tho
antique dolmans in ~spotheosis ana
succeed In being hic as well as quaint.
Where the foundation garmap
The sun., 1916-10-29

lines. though even the most houffant is
very likely to collapse toward the bot
tom.
Waists are large and usually at the
normal line. with the general sill
houette fairly straight. There are
some exquisitely simple and graceful
Greek models. a reflection Of the
D!recto!re and First Empire feeling,
ana I'VE famous designers have gwen
US frankly eighteenth century models
such as the blue satin model Of our
sketch.
Among the short evening froCks. as
among the long ones metallic nets
laoes. Cloths, embro.deries and bro-
cades are much IN evidence and metal
lie cloth foundations are used under
transparent or semi-transparent stuffs.
Yelled arrangements calling for layer
upon layer OF filmy stuTs are more
than ever popular ard some exquisite
The sun., 1916-10-29
Never So Much Metal Agint Among Fabrics and Trinmngs-Th The Dom
inant Note Of Luxury and Eegance-Many Gowns With Trains
Oriental Robes and Moyen Age Straight Lines Both Followed

that n first speaks in any dis
cussion of the new models for evening
wear.
Never within the memory OF the Old
est fashion chronlcler was so much
metal aglint among fabrics and trim
mings, and the makers Of fashion have
not hesitated to make use Of these fab
RIGS and trimmings. have. indeed, hailed
them with acclaim and used them with
reckless prodigality. Why hesitate
when designers and work folk have
achieved beauty and richness without
offending the laws Of good taste?
Metal cloths of surprising su~ppleness
and softest sheen are offered In ali
shades Of gold and silver and in a long
line OF exquisite c%olor!ngs sho, with
gold or silver. For frock foundations
these fabrics are charming. and APP
parently all the famous dressmakcrs
The sun., 1916-10-29

have appreciated that fact. for through
yelling tulle. laces. chiffons. &C.. one II
very likely TO catch the CLEAN OF a
metallic cloth somewhere about a mod
ish evening frock.
Then there are tho metallic laces,
richly heavy or. more often. fine as
spun sunshine or silver dew. and the
cream or black laces shot through
with gold or silver. Metallic brocades
Of wonderful beauty are to be found
among velvets. silks. tissues. Metallic
embroidery landings. motifs. orna-
inents are legion. and where embroid-
cry Is applied to a frock by hand II is
almost sure to have its threads Of gold
or silver II II is not entirely In fine
tracery OF gold or silver thread.
And II metal IL not the relieving
note OF the evening frock then there
is probably the sparkle and glow Of
crystal, of paillettes. or bead or Jewel
.mbroideries. All OF this in combina-
ton with velvets and silks and tulles
and laces OF surprising lovellness,
The sun., 1916-10-29

with touches or sFlashes OF fur thrown
In for good measure.
Truly this Is "A season OF surprising
luxury in womcn's clothes. That II
should be so seems rather inappro-
pirate when one considers the horrors
Of the year. but. after all, lavish en-
b~roidcr!es. handsome trimmings. rich
fabrics mean money in the pockets II
innumerable work folk who sorely need
Il; and doubtless II Is not from sheer
artistic fervor that the fashion auto
Gratis of Paris have deliberately made
this "A season of eXtravagancc and
costly elegance. America is for the
moment the great market, America
has money, much of it the result Of
the war that has impoverished Europe.
Eth hlen. let America pay.
And America appears to pay with
enthusiasm. The most costly models
have found ready sale and the hand
The sun., 1916-10-29

soonest materials are melting rapidly
from the shops.
With all this dominant note Of ele-
gance there is wide variety. variety
even greater in evening wear than
elsewhere. For several years past we
have had q monotonous procession Of
short. fiaring. airy. youthful evening
frocks. An evening frock was a dance
frock. and on the Procrustean bed OF
the dance frock were all models
stretched.
Now one may dance II one will; but
It is not absolutely necessary that one
shall dance wherever evening dress is
worm. and dancing In some OF the new
and chic evening gowns would be a
trifie difficult for the average woman,
Stately trained evening gowns. some
of them long about the feet as well as
trained. are among the seasons models
and II they do not lend themselves
readily TO fox trott!ng they are grace.
full and picturesque enough TO econ
cile a woman 10 occasional repose.
The sun., 1916-10-29

perhaps n little fur are often lovely.
More red than usual Is IN the eve
ing programme OF the French design
ers; and though there Ia a prevailing
prejudice against the color for evening
veal some OF the new models are well
calculated to batter down the preju-
dice. particularly certain models In
currant red relieved by emhroideries 81
gray silver and worth's models OF ruby
velvet tul,e and paillettes.
Rose and silver. straw and silver,
blue and silver. white and silver. apple
green and silver. quantities OF lame
tissue in metal and soft color-one al
ways comes back TO metal. The even
ing frocks Of the winter promise to be
very largely a matter OF CLEAN and
glow and Cutlery and yet. as has been
said before, the metal Il 20 cleverly
used that Il seldom sounds a harbar!c
note.
The sun., 1916-10-29
PERFUMES HAVE CURATIVE
AND ANTISEPTIC POWERS

TT IL now moro than twenty years
since attention a called to the
Antiseptic qualities of perfumes.
IT was suggested then that the fact
that few cases of tuberculosis existed
IN the flower growing districts of
France was attributable to the atmos-
phere being full of the germ killing
odors OF the fiowei.. II was also
pointed out that many workers In per-
fume laboratories were free from dis
eases Of the respiratory organs and
that those with bronchial affections
often cured themselves in this atmos-
phere filled with the orders of the vola-
tila oils.
And now This theory based upon
years Of observation has been o
frmed by several series OF scientific
experiments as to the germicidal
qualities of essential oils used In per-
fimes. Chamberlain of the Pasteur
Institute in Paris, Cadeac. Meunier and
snetchensko experimental along the
same line, and now Charrin presents a
note TO the French Biological Society
emphasizing and supporting their CON
c!usions.
Tests were FIRST made upon the
germs Of glanders and yellow fever
ana those germs were easily killed by
ne ordor of the essential oils. Later
experiments were made with . num-
oer Of oils under ordinary tempera-
ture. Tho oils found most effective
were Cey1on cinnamon. Chinese CHINA
mon. Glove. origanum, French gera-
mum, Algerian seranium. Indian YER
eem, lavender. %patchouli. angelica
juniper. sandal. bitter range cedar
thyme, lemon. peppermint. French yer.
bena, pine, absinthe and cubeb as vel
d extracts Of jasmine and tuberose.
In order To test me action Of the
The sun., 1916-10-29
NTER EVENING FROCKS CLEAN N GLOW AND GLITIEF

out n passing vogue, tndt Woihoh III
bent upon youthful effects and that
the short and c%oauettish evening frock
though without crinoline suggestion,
Of course-will be popular when the
Moyen Age and Renaissance and kim
bred modes have one back to the
museums whence they sprang.
Who can say2 Meanwhile both types
are here and women can choose what
best suits them.
For the long. straight Moyen Age
evening gown. the superb metallic
brocade and the rich velvet and SILK
brocades Of all kinds are particularly
suited: and many Of the Paris houses
have sent out stunning models Of this
type. Bernard even gives us a Moyen
Age gown all in silver. a wonderful
lustrous, supple silver brosade trimmed
in silver lace and silver gauge. long,
straight and severe Of line. simple Of
detail, softly cleaning.
As straight as tho Moyen Age
gowns. hut with a difference, are some
OF the Directoire evening gowns that.
so we are told. point the way we shall
all take a little later-long. straight,
sheathlike. trailing gowns that make
one wonder whether II is possible we
coquetted with crinoline only last
spring. In velvet these are lovely. and
In some of the soft brocades as well.
Oriental robes, too. must be taken
into account when dwelling upon
straight and clinging evening robes.
! The Egyptian frock from Callot, for
example, while In n class Of Its own.
hints at a feeling In the air, and the
swathing Oriental girdle over skirts Of
full, soft. straight hanging old APP
pears In many adjustments.
In larger numbers como trained
evening gowns not so uncompromts-
ingly straight and picturesque-1talian
Renaissance with a dash OF modernity.
frocks Of no one period but subtly
fashioned with graceful draperies and
flowing lines, with bOdices making Just
n slight concession TO waist lines, per-
haps with gauzy skirts frankly short
and even flarinc n bit. though trailing
wisps or imposing squares OF train.
Worth has found himself In his ele-
ment In this type II gown and has par
| ticularly liked ideas CLEANED from Italy
Of Renaissance days. He makes a
closely fitted though unpinched little
bodice ending at the waist line. save
perhaps for a little point in front, and
sews a very full soft skirt TO this bod
-. g.. ~ $50, "a torn =
1870 -. =. -. 49,,
49,. tt. ,.,,. go, .u.ro,s.r,
-. o.. ~. -, =" o.,
-. ytc,-r.g,, roJel. IN
-. AZ W.. -. g., H.. o,o,.,,
s.a 49,. 80 .rn.i,,.a h,,n'
- ."I,."s - $50.
.- ~ -
"
@'
Dpuiiiet mas a nu'noer OF sn'ista'-
tory trained evening gowns that are
OF no oenhl'e period nut appropriate
ioNe!ihess Wherever touhn' Like az
the rest ne Is enamored OF metalii'
e".C'S, s'el '"t"' sN.i ".e. sn''i
'uie' "'n e~tu.S,e '.N..' ''anh'
oNeiu'ap,'!' s"uIe' Hnu man
some Oh 'nese .ruI,eu sNI'eo Vi nus Ions
IN 'front.' put usually tnes are Oh anhie
OF lhs'ep iehe'h III ir'h' ana "a sues
~niie tne traih Trails uarro"is On INK
hoor'
oh. 'hoee ,ralns' those trains MOI
merely bpu'!lets traihs' 'u' every
bodys trains one never Knows wha'
they VIII 40 next ihey Iehd ooupie
IVes' t"o mario" sections ia'iins from
To-" OF h!eh "a'st me OF ~shou'uers III
The sun., 1916-10-29
=, ELEANOR HoYr BRAINERD.

~ HERE are simple evening frocks
this season. but they are likely
L 10 blush unseen, 80 fascinating
are the evening frocks Of superelegant
type.
And yet ,hs4 statement Is hardly
fair to the nsw modes. for II gives an
impression OF barbaric and spectacular
seriousness. while many of the SUI
oremely elegant evening gowns are
neither barbaric nor gorgeous. They
are doubtless built up OF luxurious ma
,~erials, but often the materials are
handled go %artfully hat they lose their
sgeressiveness, and By virtue of Its
ines a gown may have a certain air
Of simplicity wen when It CLEANS with
metal and jewels.
otll II is OF the sumptuous evening
The sun., 1916-10-29

EAU CLAIRE. Wis. Oct :7,--The ium-
Der wagon of years ago with Old Dobbin
as the motive power came into It's own
once more when Henry Thames and
Hattie TIL drove from Eau Claire coun-
~. a distance OF nearly nifty miles. to
Wabasha to no marvled. Mr., and Mr.
Leigh Meyer. who accompanied the
couple, acted a. witnesses. They drove
away In the wagon On their honsymoon
TIN.
The sun., 1916-10-29

\ FEVER was there such a sea
son for evening coats and
wraps.
Not a garment In a woman's ward
robe lends Itself moro readily u the
extremes OF picturesque lu~suriousness
than the evening wrap It may be ms
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
nine FIRE ALARMS
within four HOURS
Engines Kept Busy Answering Calls to
Minor Blazes.

Fire apparatus was kept on the run yes
terday afternoon when nine alarms were
turned In from various sections of the
CITY within a period of four hours. The
alarms began to come in shortly before
noon and kept the department busy until
O'Clock responding to extinguish small
oiases. Only H15 damage was done in all
eight fires. and In several cases the dam
age was too small to report
A nre at 45S o street northwest, occu-
pied by Martha Taylor, did SIS damage
to one Of the living rooms. Twenty-Five
dollars damage was done by a fire in a
shed In the rear of 1886 Sixth street north
west. The premises are occupied by
Mrs. Caroline Mason.
Among the other fires was one at 91l
Twenty-sixth street, occupied by Mrs.
Fannie Austin, damage, SO, caused by
an overheated stove. Fire In the premises
at 2226 1 street northwest, occupied by
Mrs. Clara McCauley, did s. damage.
Fire OF unknown origin did small dam
age in back room of an unoccupied
house at S4 street southeast.
The engines were called to extinguish
what was thought 10 be a blaze when
fire was started in n new stove at 210
Eleventh street northwest A brush fire
at Fourteenth and Chaplin streets north
west, and fire in a chimney of the house
occupied by Rose Crown, at 21S Tenth
street northeast, made UP the afternoons
alarms.
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
YOUNGSTERS THRONG
FANCY Pigeon SHOW
Birds of International Repute Seen at
Arcade Exhibition.

Birds Of international reputation, fancy
pigeons and poultry. were on exhibition
at the second annual show given yester-
day under the auspices Of the Washing
ton Center. American Racing Pigeon
Union, at the Arcade. School children
were admitted without charge to see
what a true homer looks like. Hun
dreds Of tickets were distributed by the
association. The youngsters came 90
early and in such numbers that the doors
We're opened at $50 instead OF the sched-
uled time. 10 o'clock.
Fanciers thronged the hall during the
day, showing unusual interest In the
prize winners. which were picked Friday
night.
The owners of the birds and their
classes follow:
Class A. first, W. F. Dismer: second.
w. w. Koch; third. F. z. Dismer. Class
B, first. J. D. Becker; second. w. r.
Dismer: third, z. c. Koch. Class c, first.
d. c. Buschall: second. z. c. Koch: third.
W. E. Koch. Glass d, first, ID. c. Busch
all; second. w. F. Dismer; third. J. l.
Becker. Class E, frst, w. r. Koch: sec
ond. c. A. Dusterhoff; third, W. r. Dis
mer. Glass F. frst, D. c. Buschall; sec
ond. Walter Norwood; third. w. w. Bee
than. Class @, first. z. F. Miller; sec
ond. Walter Norwood; third. E. c. Koch.
Class H. first, w. F. Dismer: second, c.
A. Inthicum: third, J. c. Ladd. Class /,
first, D. C. Buschall Glass J. first, W. H.
Fugitt. Class K. first, F. E. Dismer.
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
IMPORTS and EXPORTS
OF u. S. SHOW INCREASE
Figures Reveal that America Is Extend
ing Trade at Phenomenal Rate.

A large increase in both the imports
and exports of this country for the ten
months of this year. ended with October.
over a corresponding period Of last year
is shown in a report by the Bureau Of
Foreign and Domestic Commerce of the
Department OF Commerce made public
yesterday.
The value Of merchandise imported for
the first ten months of this year was
s. .Oo9 SSS 1888, as compared with 81, IS, ,2s7 SIS
for a corresponding period last year. In
these periods the exports totaled A,A3,-
S26.271 this year and s2.Ss7. 60, Ia last year.
The report shows that the United
States is building up a substantial and
increased trade with nearly every coun-
try Of importance In the world
The effects OF the war are evident, and
there has been a considerable falling on
in the trading with the countries which
have been blockaded.
This fact is especially shown in the case
of Germany. For the first ten months
of this year the exports from that coun-
try were valued at s.. 1.11s.2s1. as compared
with s11.T7,S5s for the same petiod last
year. During these periods the imports
to Germany amounted to IS. .235. 80 in 19le
and $409I2,6 ,6S8 in 1915.
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
.NDORSE Plan FOR
RECREATION PARK
Tennis and Croquet Courts to Be Con-
structed at Brighhsood Reservoir.

Plans to establish q large recreation
park at Brightwood reservoir were ap-
proved yesterday by the board Of control
OF Rock Creek Park.
The plan for improving the tract was
recommended by Melvin c. Hazen, Dis
trict surveyor. and while all its features
have not as yet been adopted, II was de-
cided to make a start at this time by in
stalling tennis and -croQuet courts and
facilities for other games, with benches
and tables for spectators. and to make
further improvements later.
The board now has at its disposal SUM-
cient funds to begin Improvement work
without asking Congress for appropria- =
tons.
A recommendation was also received
by the board from Col W. w. Harts, en-
gtneer officer in charge Of public build
ings and grounds. for q survey Of the en-
tire tract by landscape architect with
view to making II q large recreation
park and providing transportation fscili-
ities to make Il easily accessible 70 the
public.
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
FUR STORE ROBBED
FOR SECOND TIME

Another daring theft OF furs from the
]. NJ. Giddlngs & Co. clothing establish
ment occurred early yesterday morning.
when for the second time within three
weeks thieves smashed a heavy plate
glass show window of the house at 1910
II street northwest and stole a valuable
fur coat.
On November 13 window smashers
broke into the store and stole a coat
valued at $3.50.
When the manager of the store arrived
at the business house yesterday. he found
the window smashed for a second time
and a coat valued at 1896 missing. The
coat taken yesterday was described as
lady's very deep black cashmere velour
with fox trimmings.
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
CUPID RAIDS RANKS
OF SUFFRAGE PARTY
Two More Workers in New York Head
quarters Prove Easy Targets.
spsiai % ne washingson Herald.

spsciAi % ne washingtn Herald.
New York, Dec. cupid is an anti
sunragist. II not, why IL he plucldng
the most promising young women from
the ranks Of the suffrage workers and
planting them by the freside?
He began with Alberta Hill, star of
suffrage parades. and then he took Ethel
Gross. the pretty secretary Of Mrs. Har-
riot Stanton Blatch, and ever since his
bow and arrows have been busy deci-
mating the votes army.
s Yesterday two girls fell victims, Mar
3orie Cullen, secretary and switchboard
operator for the New York City Women
Suffrage party, and Sarah Addington.
assistant press chairman Of the National
Woman Suffrage Association.
Miss Addington yesterday took the
train for Richmond, Ind, where she
will sew on her trousseau for her mar
fiags In February to Howard Reid, a
young New York lawyer.
Marjorie Cullen was married at st.
Stephens Church to ]. Edward Hum
phreys. jr., as ardent a suffragist as she
r.
Marjorie was taken to the church IN
Mrs. Carrie Chapman Cats car by the
special request OF Joseph, the chauffeur
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
GEORGE G. THOMAS
WITH GUGGENHEIM

Answering an advertisement in a New
York paper two years ago was the way
George G. Thomas, former chief clerk
in the Postofiice Depa rtment. secured the
position of third deputy commissioner OF
charities of New York City, at a salary
Of 5000 per annum.
He has since resigned that position to
become attiliated with the Guggenheim
interests. as a member of the staff Of
the American Smelling and Refining Com
pany, with considerable increase in sal
ary, having charge of the supply pur-
chasing department.
The yellow poplar, or tulip. is the larg-
est broadleaf tree in America.
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
NEGRO SLAYER REPRIEvED.

Springfield. Ill. Dec. 2-"Chicken Joe"
Campbell, a negro sentenced to hang
for the murder Of the wife OF Former
Warden Allen at Joliet Penitentiary was
reprieved until March 16, by Gov. Dunno
today. This Is the second time Campbell
has been reprieved. He was to have
been executed December s. but the time
was extended to give him an opportunity
to carry his case to the Supreme Court
The Washington herald., 1916-12-03
sANDUsKY MAYOR ARRESTED

Sandusky. Ohio. Dec. 2-Mayor Robert
Koegle was arrested today on q secret
Indictment returned by the Erie County
grand jury charging him with neglectng
his duty in criminal cases. Koegle, as
chairman OF the five commissioners run
ming the city under the commission plan,
acts as mayor.