The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1916-09-24


snts to the princess, afterwards famed
for her 100 years nap, they made her
good and lovely, rich and wise, but in
modern times sleeping beauty would
wish to have conferred upon her the
gift of dress instinct" for the Ameri-
can women crave that - most precious
boon. Nowadays we must credit her
with possessing it, for the standard Of
good taste and the understanding Of
Whist 10 wear places the American
woman in = class by herself. There is
nothing frivolous about studying the
clothes problem. Those who give it the
most thought and then apparently for
get il, are the ones most practical and
best dressed.
Autumn Is the season when the great
est fashion changes occur. The practical
sartorial ideas originated without the as
sistance of foreign designers, has given
Us 4 worldwide fashion reputation.
Inspirations for fall garments have
been taken from many periods and coun-
tries. Russia, the ancient costumes of
Poland, the Moyen age. Louis Fifteenth
period. are among those that contribute
their quota
~Brosdeioths, velour Dc laine, veloura
dnvetines, l1bafdines, xibeiines, jerseJ
and pile fairies are the materials rem
orally sought for. Features of the suit
are the longer coats and skirts. 1t may
be safely affirmed that the skirt within
a few inches of the instep is no longer
rated dowdy as it was few weeks
previous.
The question raised as to the width,
of the skirts to be worn with the three
quarter length coat is answered by saying
that heavy materials do not exceed from
three to three and a half yards, the
wider skirts of lighter weight material,
know no limit to the yardage.
The waist line is slightly above the
normal IN some of the tailor suits and
separate coats. Collars are high and hug
the throat closely. The military collar,
high fur collar, or collar turned back
with wide reveres to show the vest. arr
prominent
Sleeves are snusly fitted at the top, sei
in at the regular or extreme shoulder
line, though certain types show unex-
pected fuliness at the top.
Fur, braid and embroidery are used
lavishly for trimming. All skirts have
some fuilness at the top with = ten
dency to push the fuliness to the back
MODIFIED circular, pleated effects and
many gored models are used. Skirts
di.tended by stiffening ut the top of the
back or below hip and knee continue to
be worn.
There is . pronounced vogue for the
long tunic and various pannier ideas
One cannot refrain from mentioning
pockets OF every description.
A two-pieee suit Of elephant gray
broadcloth trimmed with smoked fur has
= e<>e 1>~~%k s>.t->A 80: ca.
back and front. Fur bands are run un-
der short tabs Of the cloth outlining esch
side Of the front. The collar il Of fur
Deep pockets on the coat are fl,
trimmed. The long sleeves are set il
ut the normal arm hole with tab trim
mina. The cloth belt is trimmed through
the center with q fur band and cut il
one with the front. A belt made Of fun
ID run through cloth slashes on the full
skirt.
A blackberry oolored broadcioth
trimmed with seal e made in simple con-
jacket i oollared with fur. The JACKIE,
side portions ere gathered At the line Of
the jacket. The skirt has = plain front
panel and gathered side. Below band
6ne shirring, there is 4 pocket at each
eide Of the front panel.
Separate coats are made in both
straight and fare effects. With the ex-
eeption Of sport coats and sport" these
days 10 an elastic term, costs are IS to
IS inches long.
Belts are used on motor and street
coats. Collars Of every variety from the
high standing collar to the cape and
sailor collar are different-very different
this fall both on the coats and suits.
Modi6cations Of kimona styles and ben
sleeves or those with Z fulfness caught
ct the cuffs, are seen on the utility coats.
There b Z eall for coats Of mixtures,
tveeds, velours, checks and plaids, wool
velour broadcloth and pile fabrics. Fur
6imminGs again have liberal use.