davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25

a diaphanovs crispnoss all its own and
rcpays an artist for skllful designing.
Many Of the prctticst orgardy frocks
are lightly beaded IN white or coior
Some arc merely sclf-trimmed with
tiny tlcks, frills, &c, and have clever
touches OF contrasting co,or in rib
bon girdle, sleeve knots. &c.
White collars and cuffs or under
sleeves are usually put upon the
organdv frocks in color though In the
case of the well behaved flesh pink
there is often no departure from the
flesh tone Citrou. mauvc and oil h
pinks arc favored organdy colorings
and there is much white organdy.
sometimes H-the ivory white tina il
iked ~ we'll for batistc and linen.
More elaborate trimmed effects in
orSandy ore offered and are frequently
lovely, though IL ~ n question whether
this material is not at Its hest when
at It's simplest. Line tracery of silver
embroidery on white or pink orEandy
IL lovely aud delicate enough not to
detract from the airiucss that is the
peculiar charm Of the material, but
the organdy froCks heavily lace
trimmed leave something to- he desired.
II lace is used in quantity with or
candy the finer. lighter laces are best,
hut some Of the best houses use much
hlet. Black chantilv or rose or pink
organdy is a French fancy; but the
French designers are likely to intro
duce n hit Of black chartllly into any
light lined sheer frook.
Net rivals organdv in light
ness and modishness. though the ef-
fects secured with II are very different
from those obtained through organdy.
The most successful Of the net frocks
are. perhaps. those That dispense al
most entirely with trimming other
tnan the net itself and ribbons frills.
ribbon run putting. tucks, shirrirg. rib
bon bows anuttcr and probably \
flower or two tucked somewhere. Such
Is the ideal creamy net frock, but
there ar" lovely little net frocks into
which silk enters discreetly. The white
point d'esprit Of oar sketch is In the
latter class. and with its e~gregious
collar OF the net. its widely spreading
skirt aud it's sof, bodice drapery and
glrdle Of white tafftta is az charming
as it IL extreme.
Worth's models with t1lle skirt, ard
odd waist p!nching little hodices %.
plain or lowered taffe'a have proved
tremendously successful for summer
evening wear. bat can for youth,
though many a matron refuses to hear
The call.
Sleeves are developing eclectic ten
denotes as the season progresses. me
never knows where to find them.
They may run Town 10 the knuckles
or lose heart and stop half way be-
tween shoulder and elbow. They may
just reach the elbow or wander IN
0oeSn 10 thrse-quarter length. They
may fare like pagodas or puff or
droop or flow or cling.
Thoy MAJ even t~:sarrca- a!.occ.tc..
leaving a shoulder strap or little frill
around the armhulo or dropping fChti
ur transparent cape 'o do their work.
" a RUE. ;l'v are '.'l ana NOR, ''
less transparent, but "A very COOL
looking model in Cicl blue and dark
blue tafeta dispcnses with any druup-
Ing fulncSs IN its long sleeve and IN
PRODUCES The transparency oddly m 'Aa
shape of a .aC" uud'rarn extending
the fu4i lcrs'n ~ IN" sleeve from
armhole 20 hand.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25
Difficulties Beset Good
Taste in Seasons JeWelry

the mark, for corsage ornaments are
now being used not only for the eve.
ming bodice hut sometimes for loop
ing up founces. Those who desire
gorgeous pieces ~ jewelry for evening
wear are finding tina; the same mount
Of decoration can he obtained from
these pieces as from heavy necklaces,
and they are much more agreeable FOR
summer wear.
In summer many people leave their
most valuable Jewels In safe deposit
and satisfy themselves with pieces ~
minor value, which require less care.
For this reason canoes. coral and gar
nets are strongly to TN" fore for wear
with OF Victorian cut, and SO are
antique bits OF gold work.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25
Possibilities of
New Wall Decorations

NNE 90 the ncweS decorative fads
Is the aspiration Of gay
Colored CH!ntZ. c%rctonne 81
linen 20 walls and door panels. a stNle
which offers an opportunity for the IN
production ~ color ~ a very effective
way. II Was douht,es- the colorfli
possibilities Of the idea thai; led Ed
ward Ascherman to make use # It,
since as a leader of the Wiener Werk-
static movement in this country INA
IL exactly what he seeks. for color il
a religion with the disciples Of this
new art cult.
An actual example viii serve as an
excellent illustration Of the possibili-
ties of the use II rlotous color to re-
DEEM a dun room. The problem to be
solved in the case referred to was
twofold. The room Mas rather small
end IL was dark. 4 sense Of space
must he created and the room en-
Iiypned.
In order TO expand the area aGd get
tha. benefit II every inch of space a
silk finish wall paper IN "A soft French
graz was applied, This was not only
restfil to the eye. hu, possessed a
iuHll1bls thhlliN lHhl nii w fll'' W
rejecting the light from one wall tn
another.
All the woodwork IN TN" room, base
boards. doors and window trim. was
painted white to harmon!Ze with tn"
Wall surfaces, and a narrow mahogany
moulding was added to give the
straight lines Of which the futur!sts
are so fond and 10 give charactr"
to- the background. with h fo"r
rtained a serviceabl. wood brown the
setting left only the need Of glorious
color for contrast. This was supplied
by-a linen fabric with a background Of
intense yellow over which were
srlnkled flowers in bright colors and
green leaves,
The material was first applied in Ito
Pun width, twenty-five inches, 10 the
frleze. and next the panels of the doors
were stretched with il. Tt" Vcrtl"aI
strips in the doors suggested the ap'
uearance 81 q garden in whlCh tai
araiks ~ golden glow were growing
and with the illumination afforded by
the frieZe the room WAS hi,"1 as viii
tire ~efu!g.n"I 81 bright Sunshine.
Carrying ont the sunshine IDEA, tn
gray velvet chairs were upholstered n
the back with yellow which cnrelupe'
the sitter Ike "a mantle and Net wa!
Z not sufficiently strong to offend tn
rye. Other chairs Of rattan, stained
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25
BY ELEANOR HoYT BRAlNERD.
IEvER vas there a more trium

plant season for the summer
silk. Foulards and pongees
have been summe resources year
after year. crepe and charmeuse
have served certain summer purposes
and now and then taffeta has crept
into something approaching popular
i,y: but his summer all of the famil-
lar silks are in favor, with a few new
weaves To boot. and as for tafetas-
well. ,affetIs are not n mode. They
are an epidemic.
The general character OF the sea-
sons styles. the periods from which
the designers have drawn their in
spiration. account for this tidal wave
of silk. The very soft silks like ra-
dunn. crepe and their kin lend them
selves readily To fulncss apd frills.
The crisp tafetas lend themselves
readily to bouffancy and flare. to plait-
ings n ruchings and self-trimming
of every sort. F'aille. gros de on
dres and other weaves. usually ac-
counted too heavy for summer service,
have. like tafeta. the necessary body
for certain modish effects, and the
: tremendous fancy for combinations OF
thin stuffs like chiffon. Georgettes.
wolfe, &c. with silk makes the weight
90 the silk a matter OF no consequence.
So madame walks IN silk attire from
morning until the next morning. or.
a, least. she may II she hoose and
has the money 10 indulge her whims.
Tn. most delightful 81 morning
frucks are made up in tub silks. and
provided one can have the services W
an Intelligent ~laundress are not so
.~Xtravagant as they sound. The chi
ncse and Japanese tub silks come in
excellent qualities and in more attrac-
ave Culorings than ever before. one
can find almost any desired color
scheme among them. IN striped or
plain Effects. and there are domestic
silks ON the same order that deserve
place beside them.
Then there are other domestic tub
silks. like La Jerz. hat have sprung
INTO instant popularity. Wash crepe>
uf various kinds are on the list for
morning frocks. the thinner and
softer wcaves being made mp with
great simplicity but with less OF the
tailored note than is usually given Ia
the heavier wash silks. A heavy TUT
crepe which IL used by many OF the
high class blouse and sports frock
makers tailors beautifully withou,
losing the suppleness that is the
,hief harm OF crepe The shirt
makers cali Il mannish crepe and 4 is
much used as a shirting material for
men.
Al ~ these tub silks and thu
various types Of pongec are not only
admirable morning frock materials hui
ar" greatly liked for sports wear and
to- a certain degree A., the oace that
the linens occupied. Linen is by NJ
means eibowed from the stage. but 1,
does not adapt itself 10 the prevailing
lines as do the softer materials. and
Ike the heavier silks 4 g ~ its hest
this summer when combined with a
softer or thinner material such as
handkerchief linen or vote.
The Jersey silks and the many new
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25
THE WEEK END WARDROBE.

IT HE visit over the week ,Nd is one
of the summer pleasures. To be-
tttingly Sowned on all occasions
during such a visit II yet not he
lurdened with luggage demands care
iul planning. II one travels with "A
smart week end case the necessary
clothes can he got into il If ln]g-niuusly
packed.
A suit of black or dark blue %taffrtl
IL suitable for travellinr and with tn"
addition at n diessy blouse ran do SER
vice on several occasions. The hat
worn with this suit, II a mart straw.
can he used for afternoon wear Il II
good booking sports hat az Panama ar
l.rehnrn iH not To- be corn,
Even for n short stay "A wulnan
should he. equipped VIII two or three
white tub skirts and several hluusrs
Ia wear with them they takr M little
room and one must look fresh and i'm
macNla,e durng ones stay in = friends
home. with these tub skirts shuulh
take along n lcas, tN" piqua pct'i-
coats with scnllopcl edges or pos
s;bly an undcrsk!rt Of heavy white
crep" de chine
with the untinE costume on" may
wear white huCkskiu shoes, with per
raps brown or dark blue leather strap
pings. \ plain or blue and white polka
dot tie may carry ont this color scheme,
4 soft WOO, nr silk wcat"r Wi, surely
he needed, \ top coat of tweed or
corduroy could be carried owe ones
arm 10 avoid packing
For semi-dress n sol, frock Of white
crepe dc chine or I'm" handkerchief
linen Will he necessary for tho lawn
party the hostess might give or for q
! tea at the country club.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25
BUTTERFLIES FOR FLOWERS

r. VERY season brings some novelty
r. in forsl arrangement, Th!s
IL summer butterflies hover over
houuirts or the shallow flower basins
in which single flowers are displayed.
Some of the butterflies are made ~
,elluioid. Others are the real thing.
not alive, Of course, but mounted IN
so l!felikc "A way that they seem to
be. These butterfly ments are
supported on very fine wire, 81 hne
mai 4, il hardly perceptible. The wire
is usually long enough to reach well
shove the flowers 10 give the idea Of
lowering butterflies. though II Is often
shortened 40 that the butterfly rests
IN II flower.
Cclluloid and china butterflies also
come and are intended 10 stand on
he rim Of a vase or on the LIP m n
flower basin.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-06-25
FLARE N FLUFF N FRML IN The SUMNER FROCKS
Some Straight Line Models Also Seen-Pink First Among Light Colors
Airy, Dainty Frocks of Organdy Turned Out by Paris Artists
Simple Modshness in Net for Evening Wear

Weaves Of silk that resemble knitted
stuffs are a class in themselves n
there are some very handsome things
among them. running in price as high
as $40 a yard. These come in the
favorite sports colors and the more
loosely and fancifully woven stuffs are
reserved for sports coats. though the
more closely woven silk jersey in plain
or striped effects IL liked for entire
sports costumes.
When one turns from sports and
morning dress to general utility. trav-
cling and trotting frOcks silk again
leads the procession. To be sure. Il
often goes hand in hand with chiffon
or G%eorgette or wolfe or grenad!ne or
m~aruuisette for coolness' sake. but il
is quite capable OF assuming all re-
sponsib!lities unassisted. Taneta leads
in this field. but much il done with
crepe de chine. radium and light weight
! satin, usually Of rather dull finish.
The dark blue taYeta frock and the
frock of dark blue tafeta n dark
: blue thinner stun rave been repeated
until one IL weary OF seeing them. Yet
between the cheap and unsuccessful
frock of this type and the really chic
model there is a yawning gulf which
even the most casual glance reveals.
All OF the famous French houses
have turned out quantities of dark
blue models In tsffeta or faYeta and
thinner material, and Americah artist
dressmakers have modified and
adopted these models and added other
models OF their own. so that one sees
innumerable frocks OF this kind that
are eminently successful. though the
others are legion.
As a matter Of fact nothing looks
cheaper than a cheap taneta OF poor
quality. II one cannot AFFORD a good
quality IN this silk II II decidedly The
part OF wisdom 10 buy some other ma
terial. but such preachment liz useless
In n season when tafeta Ia a craze. and
We shall see wrinkled and spit and
generally demoralized dark ! taft
.e,a. ON streets and trains all through
the summer.
J. model in supple and lustrous mn
rine blue tafe'a that has a note Of
novelty In spite of it's olo and ma
terial is Illustrated among our small
cuts and has a very cleverly fashioned
=. 1T falling straight and full In the
back but having q double tunic front
The Washington herald., 1916-01-01
CHICAGO GRAIN MARKETS.

Chicago. Dec. Si.-There was a sensational break
IN December wheat today from l.gh TO I.eoA.
compared with closing Price Thursday Of l2ix.
This big decline a reflection OF the dullness
in the cash market, we'll in tho lack OF
buying power fer the futures. Those who were
trailing the supposed longs in the December fu-
tlre, and who expected a sensational advance in
prices, were the grestsst sufferers. It was gen
orally belieEed that the open interest In December
wheat Iretty we'll cleaned up early in the
week and that the big longs foreseeng probable
decline in values, closed out their lines.
The MAY future Sold from l.2sa to Is and the
July from, In to Li;s. Those months closed on
Thursday at Lzs and 1.2ss. respectively The
cash trade here corhned to 70 0Oo bushels to
millers- Reports from the seaboard claimed that
demands from abroad generally out Of line
The spripG wheat markets held relatively hrmer
than Chicago but Winnipeg wired that the strength
display ed there more less superficial with
big long speculative interest in the market as a
buyer. Foreign buyers have refused to follow the
upturn in wheat. but Europe was reported as
sellers in order to profits. Tho big traders
talking bearish. and have been sellers on all
the haId spots during the last few days
Leses Of y to N cents made in the corn
market. There was sharp upturn in values
early but the decline in wheat caused price breaks
along the entire line.
Fractional losses were shown 10 oats that mar
ket holding up well, when the declines in wheat
and corn are considered Cash sales were rs 600
bushels for domestic purposes and 100. 90 bushels
for export
The Washington herald., 1916-01-01
STOCKS BOOM ON
/ YEAR'SLAST DAY
Prices for Specialties Advance
From Four to Eight
Points.
DUE TO AUSTRIAN NOTE
Activity Complete Surprise Coming
Before a HoEday-New High
Records Made.
DUE TO AUSTRIAN NOTE

New York, Dec. a.-The stock market
today furnxshed an appropriate closing
10 one of the most spectacular years In
the history of Wall Street On heaNy
dealings that totaled almost one million
shares new hig records were made IN
many issues. with gains ranging from
TO more than s points in the specialties.
The increased breadth Of the market
wa dus to the favorable reply from
Austria to the American Ancona note
|Tfa activity was distinct surprise, in
aspnuch as markets preceding a holiday
are usually dull and uninterestins
Opening prices showing gains ranging
from a fraction to points rejected the
betterment in sentiment resulting from
tho Austrian note. The upward trend
continued under leadership Of the oil
shares up to the early afternoon, when
nroft-taking resulted in slight recess
sions. The aggressive buying movement.
however, was resumed in the late deal
ings, and Anal prices were around the
oese
Distinct Improvement occurred in the
railroad shares, which rose from one to
two points. Coppers were strong, with
American Smelling and Refining at the
front Steel common was stronger
throughout and touched the new high
price Of SO IL for this movement
OIL Merger Rumors.
Buying OF the soil shares-California
Petroleum and Mexican Petroleum-was
accelerated by persistent reports OF fur-
ther progress toward a merger OF those
companies into the Pan-American Petro-
leur and Transportation Company.
Mexican Petroleum common sold at the
highest price in its history when it rose
ten and a quarter points to 124 1-2. Cali
fornia Petroleum shares sold at the high
est level since 1919 The proposed merger
Is said to include the most prominent
banking and oil interests in the country.
New York Central touched new high
price for the year when it. sold at no L.
American Smelling and Refining head
cd coppers. touching the highest level
since 1907. when it sold at lJI.
Tire stocks were strong. both on the
stock exchange and on the curb. Good
rich advanced nearly point and Ajax
rubber touched a new high figure.
The Washington herald., 1916-01-01
BRADSTREETS REVIEW.

New York. Dec. 31.-Bra dstreet's week
ly report tomorrow will say:
While wholesale traders have expe-
rienced comparatively quiet week, due
10 the taking of inventories. the sea-
sonal pause Is less marked than In other
years, and in some instances orders con-
tinue to come out in a way that hampers
stock taking.
On the other hand, the industrials toe
busy to take account OF holidays, pro-
coed to higher ground. Holiday trade al
many points was of record proportions
orders already booked for spring deliy-
cry are heavy, stocks in the hands OF
final distributors are exceptionally low
and hopes of an early ending of the
European wars having well-nigh van
ished; the consensus of opinion is that
goods will have to be bought here on an
Increased scale and at higher prices, not
only by our own people, but by foreign
customers as well.
To the foregoing budget of favorable
tidings must be added the fact that mail
order houses report record trade, that
jobbers have received relatively large
flling-in orders at a period OF the year
that usually affords respite from pre-.
vious activities. Some travelling men, af.
The Washington herald., 1916-01-01
EPISCOPAL.

The vestry and rector of Emmanuel
Episcopal Church, in Anacostia, have
acknowledged the gift from Mr.. and Mrs
Charles F. Roberts of handsome stain
ed glass memorial window. given In
memory of their infant son, Nathaniel
Cobb Roberts, who died the early part
OF last year The window represents
Christ as a Shepherd holding a lamb in
His arms. The window is beautifully
colored and has taken the place of the
windows which formerly were used with
in the altar rail at the church.
On Tuesday evening of the past week
the Christmas entertainment and service
for the children of the Sunday school
was held in the church and parish hall
in street. A brief service was held
in the church before the entertainment
when each child present placed a Gift In
a manEer which had been erected at the
foot Of the entrance to the chancel in
the church. A cantata entitled How
Come Little DolIies Came to go as Mis-
sionaries." was presented by four girls
OF the school, Dorothy Latimer, Martha
Hagan, Elizabeth Lindsay and Emily
Mulligan. Miss Marion King instructed
the children. and Miss Alice Leapley
played the piano Santa Claus distributed
gifts to the children.
The Washington herald., 1916-01-01
METHODIST.

Ground will be broken this morning
at 10 o'clock for the chapel of the Mount
Pleasant M Il. Church. South. to be
located Mt Sixteenth and Lamont streets.
This will be a preliminary structure. to
cost about 10000. which will be used
for meetings of the ~congres alton until
1t Is out-grown and the complete cburcn
as planned can be erected.
The program will include addresses by
the presiding elder of the Washington
District, Rev. o. III. NJ. Canter, and by
the pastor of the church, Rev. Forest
j. Prcttyman. ID. D., who is also chaplain
of the Senate. Rev. ]. l.. Kibler will
deliver the opening prayer and grouna
will be broken bv Rev. WV Tudor; Mrs
]. J. Printup. president of the Woman's s
Missionary Society of the Church: w.
A.. Benne nett, chairman of the board Of
stewards; ]. L. Carpenter, superintendent
of the Sunday School; and +. A. Frost,
president of the Epworth League. -
The exercises will include the signing OF
the contract by George A. Meyers, for
the building committee and by the con-
tractor, w. A. Kimmel
DR., James Shera Montgomery will have
for his subject at the Metropolitan
Methodist Church tomorrow morning
"Twice-born Men" In the evening DR..
Montgomery will conclude his series OF
sermons on "Our Country and the Eu-
ropean Conflict" by speaking on 'Our
Country-A Providence"
Beginning Again will be the theme
of Rev. DIR. w. r. Wedderspoon's New
Year sermon in Foundry Methodist Epis-
copaI Church tomorrow morning. and In
the evening the subject will be THE
Nations Future"
At the morning service the Sacrament
of the Lords Supper will be admins
tered.
The Week of Prayer will be observed
by services each evening next week. eN-
cept Saturday. The general topic Will be
Strength for the Way"
At Union NJ +. Church tomorrow
morning there will be holy communion
and reception of new members, with brief
addresses by the pastor. Rev. John Mac
Murray In the evening at o'clock the
pastor begins the Sunday night series OF
sermons on the subject. Satan, alias
I.ucifer, alias The Devil"
The first sermon In the series will be
upon the theme. "Satan-Who Is He!
Whence Comes He?'
On Thursday nights during the month
Of January the prayer meeting hour Will
be used for meetings Of the Soul Win
ners' League, when one of the very best
textbooks on soul winning will be studied
The Washington herald., 1916-01-01
COTTON MARKETS.

New York. Dec. J.-The cotton market was finn
today. although realizing sent prices of from the
best. Austrzs reply to the last note OF the United
States in the Ancona case and the strength Of
securities caused good purchasing in the forenoon
but later trading fell of, with the close 8 at Is
points higher.
Spot here 10 points higher at 2nc, with
sales Of 100 bales. Spot at Liverpool II points
higher. with fair amount Of business. the basis
Of 7.s2h for mdupland. Futures in the English
market finished quiet, but steady at Z net gain OF
to POINTS
Port receipts for the day were 81 rs bales against
90 ssl bales year ago. New YORK warehouse stocks
are 5454 bales, against $50 bales last year
Exports for the day Aggregated g. Isl bales com
pared with 10 So bales last year. Todzy's total in
cluded 2,T7 tales to Great Britain esc4 bales to
France, and 80 bsles to the continent Clearzncrs
for the amount to O. s9 e3 bale- compared
with 2a6I.7l0 bales last year The amount brought
into sight for the week New Orleans figures va,
u az bales. against 80 80 bales last y-sr and 49,
% bales two years ago.