davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
Ribbons and Silks.

10 IBBONS are much used for dress
w trimmings and millinery in wide
and narrow widths, in plain. brocade,
gold thread. broche prints, velvets,
MORE fancies and grosgrains.
Narrow ribbons and black velvet are
used as braid effects for hats, AMI mar
row founce trimmings will appear on
hat crowns. and in cabochons, feathers,
new wing and tail effects on the popu-
lar floral crown millinery. In fvn-inch
or wider widths ribbon il used as a
part Of dress for pepllms. susperders,
etc. Sometimes whole rolls of mar
rover width ribbons are used on a sin
gle dress.
The ribbon bag is in many designs,
whether for vanity, fitted and lined: for
shopping. for the opera. for slippers.
for knitting. or for whatever use the
pocketless gowns. Many Of the new
parasols will be entirely covered with
ribbon. even the handles.
The use Of ribbon under a chiffon or
models in these waists are in rather
full and bloused effects Of two or three
layers. beginning with a foundation or
lining, over which is the ribbon, then a
yelling. over which finally comes a
jacket or sleeveless effect Of net or
chiffon.
Some Of the handsomest silks have
floral motifs consisting of violets and
rosebuds. with their leaves and stems,
the design appearing like bouquet
Satin brocades are also in large bou-
quets and wreaths on grounds Of deli
cate color, such as pink, straw and 9th
er evening shades, the flowers in nat
ural colors. Tinsel effects are seen on
failles. crepe de chimes. mousselines
and voiles, brought out in flowers to
enrich the design.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
NeckWear and Vei|inqs.

a MONG neckwear 1t does not matter
3A what the design of the collar if it
has an open front. While there are
few extreme dresses seen with high
collars. the majority are made with
low. fiat collars. or those with high
backs and low fronts.
Some cape collars are made to lie
fiat. while others have collars with
high standing backs attached, with the
points turning on either side forming
a v.
There are many attractive styles in
collar and cuff sets. The collars may
be either fiat or with a high back and
low V front. The cuffs are medium in
depth and follow out the design of the
collar. Some sets are simply finished
on the edge with hemstitching or a pi-
cot edge, while others are deliberately
trimmed. Ruffies of lace or net about
an inch in width are sometimes ar
ranged on the edge in as many as four
rows and are finished at the head with
hemstitching. The same idea is carried
out on the cuffs. Among novelties are
leather collar and cuff sets. They are
in colors well as white.
Guimpes and vestees are in many at
tractive styles. Net, organdy, batiste,
wolfe. marquisette and georgette crepe
are the materials employed in their
making, with embroidery and lace for
trimmings
Pleatings Of net, organdy and maline
are used in various ways. Pleatings on
wide bands are used to wear inside Of
| a high fur or coat collar. Pleatings
are also used in making collars, the
pleatings being used on both the up
per and lower edge of the ribbon band
surrounding the neck.
Loose flowing face wells will be much
worn this spring. Some are circular,
others are draped. The circular veil
| with round opening in the center
which hts over the crown of the hat is
used to quite an extent. Lacy eff
| fects with woven scroll patterns are
especially effective in wells of this
kind. Some are gathered onto an elias
over the crown Of the hat. Some hang
in straight lines to the shoulders. while
others are finished with a ruche or
band. which may be caught around the
throat. Wells usually match the color
! of the hat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

press Eugene attached to the dairy
maid skirt of Marie Antoinette.
There was strong attempt to bring
back the half high, round opening Of
the neck. This is interesting for a
certain psychological reason. which is
that the French women have ceased to
wear a deep decolletage of any kind
since the war began. and this fact has
undoubtedly influenced fashion. Some
exceedingly smart theater frocks and
afternoon dance frocks made of trans
parent fabrics have low Innings. but
there Is a collar that extends well up
toward the ears.
House frocks and ordinary blouses
are made with the round. half low
opening at the neck. brilliant Egyp-
tian embroidery being the finish. in
stead of the usual turnover collar,
which is not adaptable to a round neck
Coats, on the contrary. have dropped
their high collars and have wide, roll
ing collars that fall back from the
neck and end in revers that reach to the
bust.
One Immediately sees danger in the
combination of the blouse with the un-
finished round neck and a coat with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
SEWING ROOM PROBLEMS

wash materials. and a cotton or linen
skirt carefully sewed in this way will
not sag at the sides or back.
A small hammer kept on the sewing
machine will prove invaluable. A few
smart taps on the thick seam that re-
fuses to go under the machine foot
fiattens it and makes it easy to sew
through. A hem folded and creased by
passing the hammer smoothly and firm
ly over the edges requires no basting.
Gathers tapped lightly with this handy
helper do not slip or bunch up while
being sewed.
When making plated skirt after
the skirt is completed turn it wrong
side out and sew a tiny seam down
the back of each plait for a certain
always hang straight and require one
half the pressing. This is a great
help for wash dresses.
For tucking material that will not
cloth. chiffon, ETC., cut a piece of card
board the size of the tuck desired.
then take a warm iron and with the
cardboard measure off the size Of the
tuck on the goods, pressing 1t AS you
go along After doing this stitch them
good as, if not better than, II you had
done the work with a tucker.
X
Letting down hens for a fast-growing
child takes much time and trouble. Did
you ever try stitching in a tuck on the
wrong side of the hem. fyou are fortunate
enough to own a chain-stitch machine, a
minutes work will lengthen the garment
the width Of the tuck. Even with lock-
stitch machine it takes far less time than
picking out hem and turning it again.
Almost all new cotton frocks shrink in
washing and need letting down in the
skirt. Before the dress goes to the tub
take out the wide hem and turn 1t again
at half the width. This will bring the
edge of the new hem to the crease in the
bottom o. The skirt, which gives a straight
guide fo.o lasting. In almost every case
the skirt comes out of the wash Just the
right length, with ITO streak of dirt to
mark the old line.
Having decided on the width Of the
bias band that you need, and having cal
culated the amount of material that will
be required for them, cut the material on
the bias and then draw straight lines
across this material in strips of the width
that you wish your bias bands to be-
When this is done join the bias ends Of
the material together so that the ruled
lines meet. Press the seam open and
then begin to cut on the ruled lines round
and round, starting either at the top or
the bottom. The result will be one long
bias strip which will make nice, even
bands. You can purchase in large stores
ready made bias folds in bolts of twelve
yards at small cost.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
HOW THRIFTY HOUSE WIVES
SERVE CHEAP CUTS OF MEAT

Ut ia not necessary to buy the most
extensive cuts of beef or other meat
q in order to obtain the most delicious
and nutritious results. Tenderloin of beef.
for instance, the most expensive and the
tenderest cut in the animal, is tasteless,
and has to be treated with high season
ings and squeezed juice from the round
to make it even palatable.
Neither the tenderloin nor the sirloin
10 as iuicy or nutritious as round steak,
a. chuck steak or the tender little skirt
steaks which the butcher takes home
usually for his own delectation.
Here. then, are some inexpensive yet
satisfying and nutritious meat dishes.
that may assist the frugal housewife in
working out her daily menus.
Beef Olives.
Cut in small slices one pound of lean
beef from shoulder or shin. Mix quar-
ter pound Of sausage meat with an equal
quantity of stale crumbs and spread the
slices Of meat with the sausage mixture.
Roll up in the form of olives, tie firmly.
then season with salt and pepper, and
dredge thickly with flour.
Put two taDleSpOOn1ulS OF dripping III d
frying pan and brown olives in it. AS
fast as brown lay the olives in an
earthern dish with q few slices OF carrot
and onion. Add little catsup to sea-
son, cover with boiling water or stock
and cook slowly three or four hours.
Andy's Beef Stew.
The old business men Of lower New
York still talk of Andy's beef stew, al
though Andy has been gone now these
many years. l have the directions in
his own handwriting, legible and plain
'Take," he says, "a fiat bone steak,
weighing about three and a half pounds.
and carefully remove all bone, skin, fat
and gristle. Cut the meat into small
half-inch squares and rinse in cold
water. Fill a three-gallon agate pot half
full of water, set over the fire and let it
get warm.
Meantime. scrape two good sized car
rots and slice also three good-sized onions
and two green peppers. Put all the vege-
tables in a chopping bowl and chop
medium fine Next. put meat and vege-
tables into the hot water, boil twenty
minutes, add one quart can Of red toma-
toes and let all boil slowly for one hour.
Then add one dozen medium-sized
potatoes, boil twenty-five minutes longer,
season to taste with salt and pepper, add
one tablespoonful each of table sauce
and tarragon vinegar, one-haf teaspoon
full Of celery salt and serve Immediately"
This il enough. of course. to furnish Q
big family with a satisfying meal and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

ornamentation which the adoption OF
the Bourbon and Orleans fashions IN
evening gowns has instituted. Metal
roses are easy to make. but remark
able designs in colored beads. metallic
laces. various ways in which satin
roses are applied to the surface OF
frocks. yards and yards of Egyptian
embroidery placed on thin fabrics as
well as heavy serges. intricacies OF
narrow braiding-these are not tricks
which appeal to the American dress
maker. nor are they done we'll by that
vast variety of needleworkers in the
upper floors of the dressmaking de-
partments.
Therefore, one can easily reckon on
the possibility of danger in applying
French trimmings made by American
hands to fashionable frocks.
Racially. America does not look well
when ornamented with foolish trifles.
There is something about the faces OF
our women, their peculiarly indie
pendent stride. their whole manner of
confidence, that ill BELTS the gentle.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

colorful coquetries of an era when
women dressed like dolls.
II Hermione were speakinS-that
enhancing creature evolved from the pen
of Don Marquis-she would typify in
her one person all the verbal foolish
nesses Of this day by saying: Their
aura does not permit of it. IL you know
what l mean"
There are plenty of fashions. which
the American woman can. choose from
all that will be offered her this month
without attempting to go against her
type. There are some women who
really look we'll in the sartorial foibles
of Nine de Montesran, and IL they and
their dressmakers are quite sure OF
this fact. let them: tighten the season
up in such array. The average Ameri-
can woman however. had better cling
to the less sensational clothes which
represent more fully her independent
attitude toward the world.
Dress should not only portray char
acter. but should reflect the psyche
logical attitude Of the times.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

mATIENCE and deliberation should be
u applied first Of all to a careful
studying out of the patterns that are
to serve as models for the future gar
ments, and to the cutting of materials
and Innings. Silk and wool materials,
however light, should be cut all one
way, that is, with the nap falling in
one direction.
In fine cloths, where the nap is hard
to distinguish, hold the material to the
light and you will discover which way
the nap runs. The nap should always be
allowed to turn downward. Patterns in
summer fabrics of printed designs
must be matched with infinite care, and
from two to four yards more allowed
for a woman's costume than is required
for making in plain material.
When making garments of wool, it is
To do this, leave it folded with the sell
wage edges meeting and roll smoothly
in dampened sheets and lay away for
twenty-four hours, or until the sheets
become dry. This saves great deal of
future trouble and also acts as a
sponging process, making goods of
smooth surface proof against rain spots
as we'll as shrinking.
When making dresses or SILK or any
lightweight material, instead of French
scanning them lay the edges of the
seams even and run through a narrow
hemmer. This makes a smaller, neater
finish than French scanning, and you
have the seam sewed up and finished
with one stitching. This is a saving of
time and the seam will not draw.
Before cutting out thin silk. chiffon,
ETC., take a large towel or white cloth
and tack it over your cutting table,
drawing it very tight. Fasten with
small tacks to the under side of the
table, Pin the goods and pattern to
this cloth, which holds it firmly and
prevents slipping.
The easiest way to make skirt is
to sew all of the seams and press them.
except the back one Bind this on each
side and leave open until the skirt is
entirely finished. even to the band.
When fitting simply pin 1t together.
You will find the work much easier to
have 1t open in this way and the bind
ing prevents it's stretching.
sew the seam by machine. then stretch
1t with your fingers as much as the
material will permit. allowing the
thread to break. Now sew the seam
again. keeping it well stretched all
the time. This plan may be applied to
any fabric, but it is especially good for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

trimmed with embroidery and often
braid. Metallic laces were lavishly
used, and a good deal of that new
kind of metal gauze which has been
dyed in faint colors and which looks
strikingly oriental.
There was no attempt to revive the
loose bodice with any kind Of skirt.
Even the separate shirt waists of fine
chiffon and wolfe. which, by the way,
are also covered with brilliant
Egyptian embroidery, as many Of the
transparent gowns are, do not sag over
The belt to any extent.
The drop shoulder and the long
sleeve made their appearance In all
kinds of separate waists and gowns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

ner.
Chopped Beef Loaf.
This is excellent hot or cold. and Ia
good to have on hand for emergency
use, as in cold weather it will keep for
several days.
suitable tin. so that the slices when
cut may be of attractive size.
This beef loaf may be served hot as a
dinner dish, with boiled rice or mashed
potato heaped lightly around it, and the
following day the remains of loaf can
be sliced and each piece broiled,
These daintily broiled slices, placed
garnfshed with spoonfuls of spinach,
each fattened and decorated with q
slice of hard-boiled egg, form as appe-
tizing a meal as an expensive beef
steak.
A hard-boiled egg may be introduced
into the center of beef loaf before bak-
ing, showing prettily when sliced.
Vealettes.
Purchase veal cut from the leg in
slices as large as ones hand and about
half an inch thick. On each slice Law a
large tablespoonful of dressing made
from bread crumbs beaten egg and a
tablespoonful melted butter. Roll up
the slices, pinning with toothpicks to
keep the dressing in.
Put on baking pan in the oven, and
bake about three-quarters of an hour.
basting often with melted butter and
hot water. When done, thicken the
gravy, pour over the veal and serve on
EMMA PADDOCK TELFoRD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
Three Good Cleaners.

A RAW potato dipped in brick dust
~ will remove the rust from steel
knives without securing.
Do not use water or oil to clean gilt
picture frames. as both are injurious.
Instead, apply the white Of an egg
with soft cloth and solve the DIM
Guilty.
Wash tortoise shell in tepid water,
dry and rub with olive oil. Polish with
a cloth or chamois.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
To Mend China.

DUT the pieces together carefully, tie
firmly and boil in sweet milk for
half an hour. China mended in this way
will last for years. When washing fine
chinaware, place two Turkish towels,
one crossing the other, in the dishpan
before filing it with hot water. Put
only dish or two in the pan at a time.
Chinaware will not be likely to get
nicked If this plan Is followed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
Toothbrush Case.

A RT ticking 10 very appropriate for
~ making toothbrush cases. They
should be lined with gum tissue and
finished with seam binding around the
edge. with loops to hang by. Always
place the bristie end inside to protect
from dust germs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

nier skirt, but it had high shoulder
line. square decolletage and tight
sleeve that was set in at the armhole
proper and finished with deep ruffies
above the elbow. However, the bodice
of this spring will be that of the En-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

1890 in the skirt and 1870 in the waist
seems odd to the layman. but any
body who follows the whirligig of
fashions is not surprised at the juxta-
position.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

novel spring sports hat is made Of
satin and stitched to resemble quilt
ing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

THE the Pann French
Also Have Up Their SeeveBue Algerian Be
Danger
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

France Is the home of graceful orna-
ment, and if all this work were con-
centrated in the hands of its needle
workers the red flag of danger would
not have to be run up, but the truth
is that the American needleworker is
not especially skilled in that kind of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

an open neck and fiat revers, but some
method will be found to obviate the
evident ugliness that results from COM
bining the two.
Another tortuous turning of fashion
through which the woman who would
dress well must skillfully walk is the
importance attached to ornament this
season by the French. There is every
commercial reason behind their at
tempt to beribbon and befurbelow all
garments. Thousands of needleworkers
among the women of Paris are clamor-
been given a large share of the work
of turning out fashions for this spring
and summer
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05

Possibly one should add alpaca as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1916-03-05
Chopped Beef Loaf.

enough left over for second days din
ner.
Evening star., 1916-01-08
LOOKING THEM OVER
WITH BILLY EVANS
Stories and Facts About the Diamond Star


er'Somers
was
g. In
third
block ball the
m as ase sana @ % aeou sss @ feet in front the
to
that Garrett showed
in o
strike
any
When he got Close TO
Wallace
"Mr Wallace would please call
Bobby smiled Garrett proceeded
ned that Mr. Garrett nobodys fool " ~
Evening star., 1916-01-08
BY a. C. BYRD.

A meeting of the members of the Co
lumbia Athletic Club was held a few
days ago, at which preparations fol-
| the coming track season were made
| A captain and manager were elected
and the relay teams practically chosen
Besides the relays it was decided to
enter several men in the open events.
Johnnie Mahoney, for several years
| identified with track and field sports
in Washington as a member of various
club teams, was elected manager OF
the team. and will handle all arrange
ments relative to the matching OF
relays and entries in the various
meets. Joe Davis, who did splendid
work last season, has been chosen to
captain the squad. Relay teams to run
two miles, half a mile and one mile
will be developed. .
There are several men out for the
teams. all of whom have had quite a
little experience in track ssports: Harry
Knight. X. Knight, Joe Davis. Johnnie
Mahoney, George Hecht. Johnny Bowen.
Leach, Shipley, Johnson, Roberts,
Stevens, Beatty, Farrell and Buette.
The Washington State teams defeat
Of the Brown University eleven New
Year day seems to have convinced
western followers of foot ball that the
sport has attained just as high a stand
ard on the Pacific coast as in the east
That is true, too, if one accepts as alb
solute comment by Earl Sprackling
former all-American quarterback and
assistant coach at Brown. made right
after the contest last week Here is
Sprackling's opinion Of the Washing
ton State College team:
Washington State defeated us today
because Dietz had the better team; but
we do not feel that We are disgraced
by any means. AS a matter of fact, We
lost to the greatest foot ball team we
have played during the 1915 season, and
when 1 say that I am making no ex-
ceptions. but including even Harvard
No team that we have been up against
has the wonderful offensive and de-
fensive strength of Washington State,
and We can cheerfully admit that Pull
mans victory was earned"
Whether the Washington State eleven
was as strong as Harvard. it certainly
must have been much more powerful
than Brown, to judge by the accounts
Evening star., 1916-01-08
CLUB FOR GWINNER.
Pittsburgh Magnate Willing to Buy
Cleveland Team.

NEW YORK, January s.-After a
long conference here yesterday between
James A. Gilmore, president of the Fed.
eral League; Harry Sinclair. owner of
the Newark Federals; Edward Gwin-
ner. president of the Pittsburgh Fed
erals. and c. B. Comstock, vice presi-
dent OF the same club, President Gill
more said Gwinner would buy the
Cleveland Americans if he could agree
on terms with the banking committee
that is now running the club.
The price is nothing like what has
been reported" said Gilmore, but it
still is a little high. We know what
the club is worth, and when the com
buy"
Gilmore would not make any definite
statement as to whether Sinclair would
buy the New York Nationals lust
now Sinclair is out of base ball. he
said. but am not saying he will not
be back. think Sinclair would be a
good man to own a club in New York. I"
Denial was made by Gilmore that Sin
clair owned any stock in the Chicago
Nationals or st. Louis Americans under
the new order of affairs. while Mr..
Sinclair conducted the negotiations for
the Cubs for Mr.. Weeghman, he did not
put a penny in the club. nor did he loan
Mr.. Weeghman a penny" said Gilmore.
Gilmore said nothing would be done
players until the base ball atmosphere
clears. He announced that the Federal
League meeting planned for New York
January IL has been postponed, owing
to the inability of Phil Ball of ST. Louis
to attend on that date
Evening star., 1916-01-08
MORAN STOPS COFFEY.
Irish Giant Helpless on Ropes in the
Ninth Round.

NEW YORK, January S.-Whatever
claim Jim Coffey, the Roscommon
giant, enjoyed as possible heavy
weight championship contender went
shooting skyward last night at Madi-
son Square Garden, when Frank Moran
of Pittsburgh, for the second time
within a couple of months, admins
tered such severe punishment that for
humanitY's sake Billy Gibson. Coffey's
manager, threw a sponge into the ring
as a token of defeat. This was in the
ninth round and will be recorded as a
technical knockout, although Coffey.
helpless and hanging on the ropes. was
still on his feet when the contest was
stopped. 1t was a repetition of the first
meeting between the pair with Corey
knocked out standing on his feet. with
the difference that Moran took six
rounds more to accomplish his object.
The big garden was packed as tight
as ever in it's history. Unofficial reports
placed the receipts at $4,000, which is
$1,000 more than was taken in at tie
first meeting of these two heavy
weights. Corey, with youth. height,
reach, weight and skill all in his favor,
went up against a cool. deliberate an
tagonist who showed that he could hit,
and against the handicap of a former
defeat