davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02
PARIS MODELS FORESHADOW STRAIGHT SKIRT LINE

tons Still BOutfant
but an Impressive
Minority Scorns Sug-
gestion Of Hoops
B, ELEANOR HoYr BRAiNERD.
KTRT collapse and straight lines;
-. prophecy Is busy with them.
and though no one can aay
what fashion will do before
autumn. some Of the imported frocks
do look IKE the shadows Of coming
events connected with that same SKIRT
collapse and those Same straight lines.
To be sure. q majority Of the
models brought over from Paris BY
New York buyers are boufYant or
mildly faring or both, but q very i'm
pressive minority scorns even a sue-
gestion Of hoops or horsehair OF hip
drapery. Moreover these revolutionary
modeis-for reactionary frocks arc
revolutionary IL only they react thor
ouChly enough--bear on their inside
belts tho names of some Of tho most
famous stars in the Paris dressmaking
constellation.
Chcruit, Jenny Doeuillet, LAnvn,
Worth. Callot. Drecoll, all have In
d.,,,ed ,bat 1ar,ny skirt. hin Dr..
...,.. IT,, !. -. -. at.
'.''' "Pp'N g." ~ ~' "
pou'ce are "oe esse"''ai W "'ouishness'
Most or these dressmakers oner a
choicc. concede the now familiar skirt
flare or drapery and the fitted bodice
lines to the women who like them, but
for the women who don't-and they
are legion-they make ample provision.
Skirts are full OF course. That Is
imperative. II they may be as straight
as chooses 10 nave tnem, ana the
s~tra>shtness OF inc may eNtehd All inc
way up 10 inc shouIoor IL ono ikes a
'rock oi 'ht' type SUIT GOATS .'aro
or AZ ieast riPpio ireely aoout INC mp
VT '''ow d" p'"O'''an! eNeLs 'neSe'
" M ~ ~" ""S O'
~" VI lbs ."sn
"''9
.t, -, 60 - 49,
cmn,asi,cd mis- ,o,nt Many bonffant
,r,cts u.oro nh -,
tho mos, sucressfu, models from tho
uari, operinys-and most Of these
models have appeared in other collec.
tons. but in no other rroup have we
sccn so large a sprinkIlnc Of straight
line creations.
The aIacrity with which approving
90 argue that wonen. or at least many
women, would be glad to dodge a Pc
Rod of crinolinc. and tho rance are
that their prayers will be heard be-
iore many moons. In the meantime
they can COPY ono of the new straight
frocky II they have not the money or
the inclination to buy one.
Naturally the trotting frock Of
serge or gabardine or silk or what
YOU will is particularly addicted to
straight lines: and charming things
have been done in this field. A very
successful Drecoll model of the class
was pictured in THE SIN last week
and an exceedingly popular model
from Lanvln is illustrated on this
page. II is of dark blue serge, wide
of skirt but large Of waist and 40
quite straight in line, despite its un.
extended skirt width.
Tho waist is marked only by ono
of the very narrow little girdle belts
that I.anvln and Cheruit like; and the
length of line Is emphasized by a mar
row panel OF light greenish blue creme
set into the front Of bodice and skirt.
This panel is ornamental by crosswise
groups of little narrow shirred straps
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1916-04-02

Taffeta is the preferred silk for suits,
and since it never lends itself grace
fully TO severe tailoring the French
designers have used Il chiefly for coat
o: the short and fanciful order, such
as the Doeuillet model already de-
scribed. Sometimes n coat OF this KIM
is accompanied by a full but simple
skirt, the fantasy being eft entirely
10 the coat, but there are models
Amarillo daily news. [volume] (Amarillo, Tex.) 19??-current, 1916-07-01
Ip~~l ~llI~ MICRO
LAYER Ol. WOMAN

NukRIf IN. Ark jane 'o s.
r.. '.I sheriff 81 Gordon
~ NorrH. This afternoon Is m
n.-.g.. NJ r Birrs negro. vHo
f. r.-.rr is said tn have shot
ana t..t IRE Urrsarf q white
Woman .. uIckV west of hero
rH. r.c md Sir, Hoesar' 1-.
I . N.. quarr',.l over land
owned hy .. woman and occupied
't Htgs should Oh, negro h.
coughs a.. returned h.-s f .
. De- lyrgI..
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22

ing attempted by every other means
to counteract the effect of the Taven-
ner attack, first by studied indiffer-
ence, then by Misrepresentation, then
by threats and warnings, they are now
seeking to discredit him. In this way
they are doomed to the same tgnoble
failure that has attended all their o.
forts.
Representative Tavenner knows the
benefit OF government manufacture, be-
cause of the fact that the greatest ar
senal in the country Is in his district.
He is familiar with its operations and
is able to show how much more cheap
ly and how much more honestly Uncle
Sam can make his own supplies than
they can be made for him. If it is
pork" to save the people money by the
use and improvement of great ord
nance plants already established and
in operation, then the interests will
have to be allowed to harp against it.
The impression which the people
have is that the real pork is in the
kind of preparedness the interests are
fighting for and which Clyde H. Taven-
ner is fighting against.
Meanwhile, the question that will
naturally be uppermost in the minds
of the people is, why doesn't the Navy
league take Mr.. Tavenner up on his
proposition-or show some valid OBJ
lection to so doing.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22

Have you ever awaited yourself of
the opportunity to obtain free agri-
cultural bulletins from Uncle Sam? If
not, you should do so at once.
The department of agriculture has
just issued a new list of bulletins,
which includes some of the most in
teresting and valuable pamphlets ever
offered to the public.
Five or six bulletins are available to
each applicant. You can obtain them
by marking not to exceed six of the
following list and mailing to Congress
man Clyde H. Tavenner, in care the
capitol, Washington, D. C. Be careful
to write your name and address very
plainly in making your application.
Farmers Bulletins.
22-The Feeding of Farm Animals.
34-Meats; Composition and Cook
ing.
51-Standard Varieties Of Chickens.
55-The Dairy Herd.
61-Asparagus Culture.
1.-THE Lining of Soils
106-Breeds of Dairy Cattle
170-Principles of Horse Feeding.
79-Horseshoeing
1S5-Beautifying the Home Grounds
203-Canned Fruits, Preserves and
Jelliess.
204-The Cultivation of Mushrooms
205-Pig Management.
213-Raspberries
220-Tomatoes.
239-The Corrosion of Fence Wire.
245-Renovation of WORKOUT Soils.
255-The Home Vegetable Garden.
256-Preparation Of Vegetables fol-
the Table.
257-Soil Fertility.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
HEAETTHEuTALKS<<
Drady,n.D.
The Lad at Sixteen.

The street is great university. 1t
graduates more young men than any
other institution in this country, Civ
ing an optional course in sexual phyi-
ology. On the street, the lad of is and
under learns more than his father
thinks he knows at 20. The course is
didactic, but effective. On graduation,
the boy is a genuine Smart Aleck and
he knows as much as the most boast
full simpleton that airs his views in
the barborshop or the corner saloon.
In order to uninform the graduate
Of the street, there is now a move
ment under way to have young men,
If not young women too, taught what
every human being has a right to
know-the truth about life. The vic
ious views impaired to the boy on the
street lead directly to disaster. The
ignorance Of the man about town is
phenomenal; even he seldom realizes
what fool he has been, until it is too
late to save his health from utter ruin.
II is a fathers sacred duty to see
to 1t that his son receives competent
instruction in the great truths Of life
before the boy is misled. by ignorant
companions. II the father himself
does not feel competent to teach the
boy these things, let him ask the fam
lily doctor to do 1t. The boy and the
doctor can have friendly little talk.
man to man, and get things straight.
This, we believe, is a lot more effec-
tive than lectures or instruction given
to classes of boys. When you take the
boy all alone for a confidential chat.
you impress him more positively than
when he is one OF class, we think.
Real knowledge never yet spoiled
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22

were taken up, and she a,s
that mine was for a dlnersn, 80. see
from hers. I began to expl,,n. 'auon
Il dare say you will biama -.
you have beard ~ Wien
Clara told me all abou. yor.
rage and divorce" she inter-n. mai
i may as well say right here ' .s
don't consider you In Tho lat. ss1
blame. Indeed I dom. see hon ss' .
could have acted otherwise sa
why not make the break RICH. H.,
! concluded to plunge.
Il am not divorced man.r..
i have never been married I az
you must have made a roIstaka sf
whom have you taken meY
She looked at me in aston,s,~
clara gave me no name exceut nm
She said your other name womb ~.
later If the affair proceeded" s
I am quite sure there has h.,
mistake. l began to tell you = -
minutes ago, when you interr,a...
me-" ssea
,, "Oh, my goodness graciousw
Don't disturb yourself. Your ...,..
is perfectly safe with me- But !.
greet that you should have falle, ~.
the wrong hands. Is there anytbin,
can do to right mattersr'
mo, no. nor'
HOW do we know that il you bava
made a mistake Fate has notm
The young lady was apparent,, :.
least Gained by this. At any rata Al.
seemed interested. took out nv cara
case, drew card and, having n.,
ciled my address On it. handed 4 "a
her, asking her to let me know hov
her affair with VIII came on,
few moments later the train sovad
up, the guard cried. "Dunew and
handed my new found friend out Of
the train. She gave me an embar.
raised smile at parting. saw her an.
ter a carriage driven by a coachmau
In livery and roll away.
heard nothing more Of the matte,
till one day l received a note SIGNED
by a name did not recognize a,
among my acquaintance. As soon A
I had read few lines I knew It was
from the girl who made the mistska
To keep her promise she informed ma
that the matter which had come TO
my knowledge had not materialized
She seemed much mortified at hayin.
entered upon 1t in the way she had.
wrote asking permission to call and
received it. 1 found one who had
lived In af1uence. but. having been
reduced to want, had gone to the CITY
to earn her living. She had so suffered
from lionel ness that when friend IN.
dertook to make a match for her IN
a rather crude way she was tempted.
She discovered that the man she was
/ to meet did not suit her.
I found her ready to be consoled in
the matter and consoled her. but not
without 1.-The bother of courting."
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22

any one. But ignorance is to blame
for a tremendous amount of unhap-
piness and misfortune in this world.
We must work without cessation to
batter down the vicious double stand
ard which has done incalcuable harm
to the race. We must undertake to
teach our boys the truth, that they
may preserve their health by virtuous
living. We must show them, from the
hard standpoint of common sense and
self-interest, that, in spite of all the
barbershop and saloon and street cor
ner ribaldry, the clean, continent
young man is the consistent winner in
the long run.
At l6, at the latest, the lad is en-
titled to fair start, and it is I'D to his
father or guardian to see that he gets
if
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.
VaiUe of yasaljDa-

Is the white or the yellow-colored
vaseline preferable for medicinal uses
is Vaseline good when kept in tin cans?
Answer-The color is insignificant.
The preferable container for vaseline
(petrolatum) is the collapslble tube.
Open cans or Jars soon become con-
minated and will infect wounds.
Wh0Oping.C Cough Vaccine.
Would you advise the administration
OF whooping-cough vaccine after the
whoop begins?
Answer-Yes. by all means.
The Amber Beads Agair.
Are amber beads good for goitre?
asks G. D. ].
AnsWer-As good as pink pajamas
or green socks.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
PATRIOTISM IN THE WEST.

"The west is Indifferent to prepared
ness"
That was what Newcomb Carlton,
president of the Western Union Tele-
graph company. told the members of
the National Special Aid society, an
association formed in New York for
the purpose of boosting the prepared
ness program.
Speaking of the men of the west, he
said:
81 fear that we can't depend on them
for patriotism; they are too much alb
sorbed in business, and they haven't
much faith in a defense society start
ed in New York City"
In some ways Mr.. Carlton is right.
He is quite right when he said that the
west is Indifferent to Johnny-get-your-
gun preparedness; that it is absorbed
in the business of peace and that it
has small faith in defense societies fos
tered by battleship constructors and
makers of munitions of war.
But as to the patriotism of the men
of the west
The best evidence Is what has been
written on the pages of American his
tory by the men of the west, concern
ing wars the United States has fought.
Also the noisy clamor of the munition
maker is not the vests idea of real pa
triotism. New York can find no paral-
lei to her draft riots Of the Civil war
in any part of the "unpatriotic" west.
! North American Home.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
WARRIOR OF AZ BATTLES DERIDES
u. s. LIMOGES.
ny CEN ISAAC Z SHERMQ0D.

Representative in congress from Ohio,
veteran OF AZ Civil war battles. deco
rated by President Lincoln for con-
spicuous gallantry. From recent
speech in congress).
In all our history from the first proc
lamation of the federal constitution, no
political party, no leading statesman
nor publicist, has ever before advocat-
ed great standing army and navy in
time of peace. Whenever we are liable
to be confronted with an armed enemy
l will vote for as many armed men and
as much money as the president may
demand; and furthermore, will volun-
teer to go to the front, which is more
than any Of the powerful array Of cul-
pable curmudgeons, who originated
this war scare, will ever do.
At the end of the five-year period for
the proposed defense program this
country would then be expanding on
its army and navy more than any ma
ton in the world in time of peace ever
expended We now have the second
strongest navy in the world with no
enemy in sight, and nothing to do but
waste powder in target practice, con-
coct war scares. and give tone and pol
ish to our f1amboyant Washington So
ciety. In the name Of the Great
Jehovah and the continental congress
as General Ethan Allen remarked, what
has become of that vital plank Of the
Baltimore platform pledging the dem
ocratic party to economy and the aboli-
ton of useless Offices?
I understand that the continental
army plan of Secretary Garrison orig
mated in the war college, which was
the favorite militant child Of Colonel
Roosevelt Hence the scheme has a
wild and woolly flavor.
How utterly idiotic is the idea that
any European nation, exhausted in
| fighting men, with business and in
dustry paralyzed, loaded down with a
debt that staggers belief and cannot
be paid, with it's land filled with mil
!, lions of widows and five times as many
fatherless children, with millions OF
MANNED and crippled soldiers-legless
armless, insane and sightless-is 60
ing to make an impossible crossing OF
5000 miles Of ocean, with an army that
it is impossible to equip or transport
and attack 1OO,OOO,OOO people of the
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
sHODDY GOODS.

Americans who pride themselves on
the superiority Of America in things
mechanical will hardly enjoy the fol-
lowing arraignment Of American ma
chinery by Lieutenant ]. e. c. Scott,
aeronautical engineer of the British
aviation corps:
I'VE are constantly having trouble
with the machines made over here. Do
you know that, in this country, the
manufacturers actually do not under
stand the specifications imposed by the
purchasing governments in regard to
motor manufacturing-th quality of
steel and such things? You have not
a single motor that is satisfactory, and
there are only about six makers in the
United States who produce machines
that can really fly. Even these can
not compare with the average home
made machine"
Lieutenant Scott has put his criti
cism Of American machines and ma
terial in a very kindly way. Perhaps
he preferred to believe ignorance rath-
er than intent to blame for supplying
goods below specifications.
Richard Harding Davis, war CORES
pendent, recently returned from the
Balkans, is not so tender of American
feelings. Perhaps he is more thor
oughly acquainted with American
manufacturers, or feels freer to criti-
CHE because he is one of us. At any
rate he puts his finding more boldly,
like this:
"They believe over there that we are
false friends. You know the French
army found that when they bought
shells from American manufacturers a
number of the shells fell about five
hundred yards from the mouth OF the
gun. They bought shoes from US and
found they were made of paper instead
of leather. Such things have become
generally known and the French have
an idea that We are trying to make
money out of their misfortune
America recognizes the fact that
many Of its manufacturers are crook
ed. 1t has passed pure food laws to
prevent the adulteration Of foods; pure
drug laws to prevent the adulteration
of drugs, and there is now pending
before congress measure designed to
prohibit Interstate commerce in adul-
terated and misbranded goods of any
sort. That is our record at home, bui
it is regrettable that the greed OF
American exporters was too great tC
permit US to keep our family skeleton
locked up in the closet of the states.
The man who adulterates goods Of
any sort and sells them for first class
goods is thief, unworthy to associate
with the men who break into stores OF
rob at the muzzle of a pistol. The sam:
law that incarcerates the burglar, the
porch-climber and the highwaymar
should apply to the adulterator ant
misbrander.
With what sort of reputation
America will emerge from this wal
is doubtful. but from present indica
ton it will not be of nature to de
velop a boastful spirit.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
A NEW ANGLE OF THE AT
TACK.

A Washington special dispatch to the
Chicago Tribune develops d new angle
of the systematic attacks in the warfare
being waged by the ammunition inter
ests against Congressman Clyde H
Tavenner. The dispatch referred tC
reads:
Charges that Congressman Tav-
venner of Illinois has hoodwinked
Henry Ford into believing him
pacifist when, in truth, he is moth
ing more than preparedness pork
seeker were made here tonight by
the Navy league Of the United
States.
In a letter to Mr.. Ford A. H.
Dadmun, secretary Of the league,
takes up the purported plan Of
Mr.. Ford to distribute copies Of
speeches by Mr.. Tayenner in
countrywide campaign against
preparedness, calling attention to
Mr.. Tavenner's expressed willing
ness to join the Navy league in
framing bill for adequate de-
Tense if the league will support
his proposal for government man
ufacture of munitions.
Secretary Dadmun also points
out that Mr.. Tavenner introduced
two bills in congress calling for
the enlargement of the Rock Is
land, H., federal arsenal, situated
in his district, at cost of $1,000,
600 and an armor plate factory to
cost 100000. In conclusion the
b letter says that Mr.. Tavenner lis
shown up as man seeking to use
! preparedness TO secure pork for
= his own district. He offers to join
= with the Navy league if it will
adopt program which will help
him get that pork"
Now isn't that TERRIBLE Congressman
Tavenner has not by spoken or writ
ten word declared himself agains
preparedness. He has fought, and Il
still fighting the evils that have be
come part of the manufacture of mu
nitions productive of results directl,
opposite to preparedness. He is fight
ing the expenditure of millions annual
ly for the benefit Of the trust withou
producing any benefit to the cause O
preparedness.
= II is exposure Of this long abus
made in his speeches on the floor of tn
national house of representatives tina
Mr.. Ford wants spread broadcast owe
the country-and is willing to pay TO
its distribution, Mr.. Tavenner havin,
exhausted all the resources and priv
iieges that belong TO him In the mat
ter Of circulation of congressional lit
erature.. The facts are what hav
attracted Mr.. Ford and. recognizing II
Mr.. Tavenner an honest man witt
courage Of conviction, who knows wha
he is talking about, the Detroit man /
anxious that the country should b
d Weakened to a realization of what 70
years has been going on in Washing
ton
The dread Of the exposure OF pas
plots has aroused a keen solicitud
in the minds OF the interests about Mr.
Eord's estimate OF Mr.. Tayenner. Hay
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
The Daily Story,
A Mistake in Identity - BY Oscar Cox.

Having been invited to spend the
week end at Seabright. On Friday after
noon, suit case in hand. appeared at
the railway station. A pale faced child
poked a bunch Of violets under my
nose and looked an appeal to buy them.
l did so. and putting them In the but
tonhole Of my coat | strolled toward
the door through which passengers
were going to the trains.
Are you WHIP
The voice came from a very pretty
girl who was looking into my face in
quiringly. Ny name is William. and
1t is 30 common for men that 1 was
not especially surprised at being asked
the question by a stranger. thinking
her to have made mistake in the per-
son. My reply was:
ut is"
II supposed so by the vfolets. Come;
let US get on to the train. / have my
ticket"
She slipped her arm through mine as
confdingly as IL belonged to her. Not
knowing what to do I did nothing, but
l fully intended to make her aware of
her error at once.
THAT last letter Of Clara's," she said
as We walked to the train, decided
me-"
Curiosity here stepped in to take a
hand l wondered what Clara had
said In the letter.
"Um," l said by way Of saying moth
ing. But by this time we reached the
car steps, and handed the young lady
in. She took seat, and I sat down
beside her. I had thus far taken no
advantage of her mistake. l would let
her go On little further before head
ing her off. I have noticed that If a
woman has anything to say she will
usually say it without encouragement.
CLARA is Just too lovely for any.
thing" said the girl.
"Umw
"She has been very kind to me.
When she wrote me that you had
grown tired of your lonely life, that a
in the world the most desolate, that
you wished she would introduce you
to some girl who would make you a
good wife and without the bother of a
courtship, l realized that it was the
same for men as for women, and, while
| didn't like your words-'the bother
Of courting'-I felt that in the main
you were right. Then received her
letter making the arrangement for US
to spend the week end with her and
saying that you would meet me fol-
this train and would wear a bouton.
Mere of yiolets"
l had got the whole story in a nut.
she'll. There was none of that shooting
out in different directions like burst.
ing rocket. but concise narration of
facts. Just then the conductor came
along taking tickets. My companion
showed one for Dune. a station not
quite so far as Seabright. Both tickets
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22

Congress is again considering the
Stephens bill-in a slightly altered
form from that in which it appeared
last session - making it illegal for
dealers to sell articles below the price
fixed and advertised by the manufac-
turer. The purpose, of course it to
protect the regular" dealer from the
"cut-rate" dealer. There are some arg
uments in favor of the measure, but
it is extremely unlikely if the bill
could stand the test of constitutional
ity. So far as the consumer is con-
cerned, he is naturally opposed to it.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1916-02-22
1890. 900 AS WARS LOSSES.

Special Gable to the Washington Post.
London.-The gross casualties of the
war to January, 1916, reached the enor-
nous total of 14,96OOOO. These figures
have been computed from official
statements of the losses by Great Brit
ain and her allies, and are estimated
for the Teutonic allies.
The number of killed is estimated at
one in every five of the gross casual
ties, and prisoners also at one in every
seven. Upon this basis 1t Is found that
the total killed number, 100000 pris-
oners 2,140,00O, while 100000 have
been wounded.
There are now at least 81 100000 men
under arms in the different theatres
of war,