Evening star., 1915-03-14
Many of his best evening frocks were
black. made of lace and jet and OF

black. made of lace and jet and OF
quantities of tulle.
Callot showed evening frocks in
Several of the best evening frocks were
in violet and lavender A sensation
was caused by a bridal gown. which
Callot has not shown before. made of
the bodice quite decollete. AS brides
have not worn the low corsage for
many years, this innovation. along
with the use of green emmrbiodery,
The skirts were narrow for all oc-
casions, but then Callot has never toll
Grated the full skirt. White satin
frocks were made somber by long,
ing from the shoulders in the back
Splendid brocade played its part. as
one must always expect at this house,
and figured failles combined with gold
and silver were made into afternoon
and evening gowns.
In special evening frocks COM
bination of variously colored crystals
placed on self-colored net were used
to give an opalescent effect Every
where one saw draperies OF tulle f1ow-
ing from the shoulder to the hem In
another color from the gown. Here
and there were frocks with the en-
pire waist line, very much like those
Josephine wore, with the huge orna-
ment in the front holding sweeping
skirt lines of plain satin.
Cheruit for Simplicity.
Cheruit held her clientele firmly.
Her collection Is said to be as artistic
and as likable as those she made In
the summer and last February. One
who knows this talented woman would
feel quite sure that she would go
toward mauve and simplicity. Callot
is ornate, Cheruit is simple. 1t is
argued by her admirers that the styles
she has shown this season will outlast
the moment because they are not
founded on freakiShnesS, but serious
ness of line and coloring. They are
Parisian and suggest the reign OF Louis
XIV, of which she is a student and an
admirer. and there is also touch of
Louis Philippe.
Her tailored suits have short coats.
reversal from her silhouette of last
August which ripple at the sides from
the waist. Her skirts are full. after
the 1S4S pattern, with the fullness clev-
erly adjusted at the sides. leaving the
fronts fiat. The hem is well above the
ankle, and the mannequins show high
boots instead of pumps with all the
street frocks. Those laced at the side
are still worn as they have been over
here since December. Cheruit shows
many sequins as the other houses do.
also paiIletes and beading. The decol-
letage in evening frocks is exceedingly
low in the back and unusually high In
the front.
Most of her bodices are fitted over
the bust. and are buttoned or laced up
the back. There is every evidence. un-
! happily, that the waist that fastens in
| the back is to return, and that it is
| to be tight. She does lessen her hold
on those deep, capelike collars that
extend from the neck to the waist in
!; the back with points that meet in the
| front.
She also uses the empire waist line
| on tailored suits and the skirts Of
| some of the jackets are cut in godets
to fit the hips yet ripple. The pre-
| ferred colors are mauve, silver gray,
corbeau blue. which she uses season
after season, and the new soldier blue.
| Her reason for these colors is: That
| if the wearer goes suddenly into
| mourning, they can be utilized" Poor
| France!
Jenny Still Rising.
The rise of Jenny, the designer on
| the Champs Elysees. is as sensational
as the rise of the late Nine. LIE Franc,
| under the firm name of Premet. This
spring her opening was eminently
successful. She featured taffeta in old
rose colors, and failles in rosebud pat
| terms on a green ground. Still she held
with galloon of some kind, as last
year she bound her skirts with silk
| braid.
| She accentuated the normal waist
line, but sometimes brought it to a
point in front in the manner introduced
! in New York last November at the
| fashion fete
!, Last summer Beer was brought to a
sudden stop in the preparation of his
models by the war and. therefore, had
a belated opening in November, but
| this season he managed to have his
house open on schedule time. Ameri-
cans. especially. like his clothes, and
the buyers usually have success with
them. and. yet, next to Callot he is
| most disagreeable to US, declaring that
he doesn't care what we think of him
or his work. Maybe he was peevish
when he kept on reiterating this.
Maybe. meant it. However. that is
| far from the point of what he showed
at his openings.
To begin with, there were many eton