The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-04-18
), ELEANOR HoYT BRArNERD.

w the seasons silhouette-and
w opinions on that subject run
the gamut from enthusiasm
eeatuse--the details Of the new modes
~ tremendously interesting. Already
ths spring openings seem remote his
,ory and most Of the models displayed
q, them have become an old story.
A,n the inspiration afforded by those
model frocks, the tendencies hey in
Sorsed, tho little original notes to
which they owed their success, are
keeping things humming in the Dress
making world.
The fastdiously well dressed woman
rarely wears a French frock that has
t,en shown at the openings for the
trade or an exact copy of such a frock,
mt the frocks she does choose owe
much to those same models. and some
o,e French designer IL likely to infiu-
,nce very obviously her wardrobe for
the season.
vr,s year there is rather more una
nmity than usual among the French
touses-unanimity as to general
characteristics. Whether all the mas
ter minds OF fashion worked along
the same lines or some OF the master
minds declined TO work at all and ac-
eep,ed the obvious conclusions OF last
seasons tendencies because that was
simpler Than blazing any new trail.
che fact remains that practically all
NJ the we'll known makers are COM
m,,,ed TO the programme OF very short.
full skirts, normal waist line. basques
slightly fitted. ruches. tucks. fiat bows.
buttons floating layers OF tulle. billow-
ing founces OF lace, reckless fulness
Of taffeta. faille. gros de Londres. SC.
Really this increase in the number
Of yards required for modish frock
IS a serious matter for the woman
whose dress allowance is limited.
When four or Ave yards Of silk
would make a frock one might aspire
even to the choicest stuffs; but now.
when double that amount or more is
needed. ones discretion must do battle
ysIan,ly with ones tastes. Three dol
lars and a half is a modest price for
O handsome silk. as handsome silks 20
to-day. and many an unpretentious
plain silk OF exquisite texture Is priced
a. high as $3.50 Multiply that by
eight and you have an expensive
proposition even before the dress
maker has put scissors into the ma
torial.
The same is true of the simple
frocks of tul,e. lace. chiffon. &c. They
NAV not be deliberately trimmed, but
amazing quantities OF the filmy stuffs
mount accordingly. Then the trim
mlngs that have so modest an air. the
folds and ruches and corded shirrinss
and bows. &C.. mean hand work, ana
there again comes expense. No, Tor
all their demure Victorian air the
!rocks Of to-day are not cheap and our
purses have often suffered less Sc
yerely in days of greater gorgeousness.
I, seems that at last the American
woman has accepted taffeta. For many
seasons past Paris has been urging II
upon her, but though tn" models
might show 1t and the fashion jour
nails might exploit II. the women would
rot wear il. Now. having taken 1t up,
thev are as feryent as they were cold.
High grade imported taffetas In de-
trabc colorings are already exceed
ingly scarce. and IL Is difficult To ma
even the finer qualities OF dome>u Tic
,affeta In the modish blues. for in
stance, though our silk factories have
been turning out great quantities OF
this silk, much of IL admirable in
quality
The American made pussy willow
taffeta Is in great demand and is really
charming stuff. practical as well as
pretty. which i a thing one cannot
say for all taffetas, their wearing quail
flies being more or less uncertain ana
their cleansing qualities being more
uncertain rather than less.
S;ll. taffeta in good quality is an
admirable summer silk. and its crisp
softness lends itself particularly well
n the prevailing modes. so its popu-
lsrity is easily understood,
For the woman to whom the some
what aggressive character Of even the
Simplest ,affeta Is Objectionable there
are the innumerable combinations or
this xix with softer stuffs such as
wolfe. etamine. chiffon. tulle. &c., and
from the amount Of such materials
matched to taffetas by shoppers II
would seem that every woman in the
country Is going TO have frock OF
this type.
Three piece costumes-frock and
coat, or frock. blouse and coat--in tar
frta and soft sheer stuff are legion
every French house having shown
them. The coats as rule are or 'he
Short typc. either fitted or very loos"
and Vagu" in line, and some or them
combine a snuGly fitted front with "A
loose "apelike back. Cabot has very
Successful model in taffeta and lace
whose blouse and skirt figure in our
large picture and whose clever little
f0lero Of silk reaches only to the waist
In" N front and resembles a softly
draped surplicc bodice, while in the
bach the little jacket is a trife longer
and very loose. The peplum of tho
lace blouse shows below the coat, and
though the many cross lines ana mar
Ing folds would he unbecoming to any
taf" a slender woman, the model,
tthcr with or without the coat, Is very
attractive. This lace blouse consorts
vel. too with less radical skirt and
coat and j. worth noting as a posi-
bih'y for general uses.
There are good many peplum
tIluscs and bodices of one sort and