Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1915-02-07

great, and Immediately things were
closed--no lights were allowed, the |
cafes could not be open. the theaters
were shut down, and a curfew told the |
people that their lights must be out |
II was natural that this should affect |
business. hut now things have
changed and are taking on much |
more normal outlook.
The dressmaking houses which have
kept open are doing business with
the United states at least, and Rodier,
the great manufacturer of fabrics re-
ports that he is furnishing materials
TO the Cabot Sisters, Cherut. Premet
and Beer.
The theaters are opening and many
are crowded, hut not BY the fashion
able audience one would expect under
different circumstances The women
OF Paris are avoiding the extremes
which have always been their hobby
in style The very light skirt has
been discarded, but The very fun skirt,
which WAS thought would by this
time be The Parisian style OF the mo-
ment has not as yet been fully accept
cd. However, the gowna which were
worn by he actresses had certain ele-
ments worth remembering.
A dress of blacl, velvet, which was
worn by French actress, had long,
tight-fitting sleeves and q square, low
neck. with n Medici collar in the back
The skirt was full and drawn IN
around the bottom 4 length Of the
velvet was draped over the hips and
ended in a train. The entire gown
was devoid of trimming, which gave
richness that no amount of embel-
lishment could have aided.
Long sleeves are to he seen on all
gowns. | asked a prominent New
York dressmaker not long ago if she
would make long sleeves for summer
and she replied: Il most certainly
win unless my customer insists other
wise.
A charming afternoon dress Is pic
tured herewith which shows some
what the bolero effect, together with
the long sleeves, which are most
striking features Of the present styles
The waist is made with an underwalst
of crepe de chine with the bolero eff
feet in wide lace The sleeves of this
outer waist are short and the lace
while long net sleeves extend to the
wrist Tho skirt Of crepe de chine is
shirred several times at the waist and
hips, and II is finished at the top with
q fril Of itself Three graduated
bands of net are the only trimming on
the skirt. This is a frock which may
be worn again and again, as its long
sleeves and high collar give il q dis
tinctly daytime cir, while the ma
terial makes 1t elaborate enough for
many evening functions.
The separate waist takes on differ
ent features with the changing of the
season, and there is no end to the
numerous models, although they ali
bear a resemblance one with the
other.
This season the high collar has been
the newest note in these waists. A
few good models have been made with
the high collar, but it is much hard
er to achieve than the waist with the
round. wedge, or rolling collars.
Some of the waists are made with
a V neck and high collar above it,
leaving a little Of the neck or chest
exposed This is unique but gives a
look of something left out, or unfin
ished that it is scarcely popular. 9th
ers are made with a straight band
around the neck and ruff of net or
chiffon above and below It, The best
of the high-neeked waists button
straight up the front, from the waist
line TO top of the collar. A stunning
waist which l saw not long ago was
made with the collar in one with the
body of the waist, the shoulder seam
extending into the side seam of the
collar. This collar wrinkles around
the neck charmingly and was held
from working down into Il string
around the neck by bones at the back
and sides of the collar
1t does not seem possible that these
high collared blouses and frocks VIII
altogether supersede the low collars
which we have been wearing so long.
The women have felt the comfort Of