davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1915-07-06
LATEST FASHION NOTES
from the FASHION CENTRES

ingiy beautiful In design. Jet and
steel are combined too to give good
effects and women who like brilliant
ooloring will perhaps welcome the
suggestion OF a chain in Roman striped
effect with tassel of beads in har-
monizing colors as finish. Beads will
enter into the manufactured articles
too and shoe buckles of beads and
various other ornaments Of the sort
are being shown. Beaded belts and
beaded buttons are novelties also and
exceedingly beautiful ones. Some OF
the newest blouses sent over from the
other side are made of white organdie
with small buttons covered with the
same, showing small red and blue
beads arranged in effective designs.
Bead belts are exploited by the most
exclusive dealers and are advocated
for wear with linen and cotton cos
tunes. They are exceedingly beauti-
full in color and in design, sometimes
showing floral motifs. sometimes
stripes and sometimes Egyptian effects.
Beads OF various sizes and various
colors are used. but the small beads
can OF course be handled with greater
success for the more intricate patterns
With the general tendency toward
ouaintness and old-fashioned effects.
il may also be well to study the bags
Of our grandmothers and our great
erandmothers and TO copy them as
FAR as may be. They are very beauti-
ful in color for the most part and the
motifs suit present day dress ad-
mirably well.
Evening journal., 1915-07-06
DANCING FROCKS A

IN THE diagram. the pattern Is
shown laid out on material thirty
six inches wide. II II is to be
made Of two materials as il is
here, the sleeves and the front
portions will Of course be cut
from a different material and before
beginning the work It will be ncccs-
sary TO cut the pattern for the front
Of the skirt and the pattern for the
front Of the blouse through on the
third line Of perforations from each
front edge. but these different portions
will all be laid out on the material
exactly as they are on the diagram,
90 that whether the pattern Is to be
used for one or two materials, the
suggestion for placing viii be avail
able. The Puritan collar with the
wide cuffs are prettier made Of organdie
than OF anv other material az organdie
Is perishable and will require renewing
frequently. il is we'll to finish them
with separate bands and attach 70
position with snap fastenings. As
matter Of course, this suggestion is not
on the envelope for space viii not
allow. but Il is good one to be borne in
mind.
For the lesson We viii suppose that
We are using figured and plain silk
in blue or some such color with bands
Of eros grain ribbon and are making
the collar and the cuffs Of organdie.
After having cur the two portions Of
the pattern through and laid tho dill
.erent pieces out on the different ma
terials, fold a portion Of your material
lengthNiso for the back Of the blouse
and the back Of the skirt and for the
remaining pieces fold crosswise il there
IL no figure or nap. as YOU will need
two Of each piece and can then cut
them both az the same time. II there
is figure or nap. cut the strip IN two
lengths and .ay them together, the
right sides facing and with the figure
or nap taking the same direction in
both, that YOU may be sure 10 cut
for opposite sides OF the garment
Trace all around the outside edges
with a tracing wheel or with a craynn
or with basting thread, but be sure
YOU get a perfect outline. for that
outline is the hasting line and the
bastins line is all-important Tor Il
pfcetrNcs tnt shapthhc7e ~ Ahc e't
mcnt. With silk, you will cut only
three-eighths OF an inch beyond thi.
marked outline, but Il your materia
should be the wool voile that will be
worn next season. etamine or any
other fabric that trays readily, allow
twice that width, otherwise your seam'
will disappear before the stitching
is done.
Having cut the pattern for the from
Of the blouse and the front Of the skir
through on the periorations, We vii
Of course allow seams on these edge
as well as on the others. Mark all th
perforations. the notches and III
outside edges through TO the unde
side OF the material with the tailori
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

DEAD embroideries and bead ac-
cessories can hardly be said TO
- have sprung into favor, but
they are gaining ground so rapidly
that thev have become somewhat inn
portant and since there are many
women who can do the bead work
successfully, this is a good season at
which to discuss the matter Trim
minps, chains, embroideries and the
like are very beautiful when the
rolors aud the beads are well chosen
and the patterns are well worked out:
The embroideries are Of course worked
over staml ed patterns, but the chains
and some Of the bandings arc manu-
tured on the looms that we're 50
familiar a few years ago when the
making Of such bid fair TO be a craze.
II is always possible to obtain good
designs from the dealers who sell the
looms and the beads, but great many
women will be clever enough TO make
their own and when the design IS
made for oneself, it always gives
sense Of individuality and distinction
otherwise to be obtained. Bead bags
arc gaining even greater tavor than
they have had heretofore and the
bead bags depended from bead chains
make exceedingly beautiful finish for an
afternoon toilette. A handsome one
exploited by an important dealer com
bines black, old rose and green. The
lurse is mounted upon a gun metal
frame and is finished with a bead
fringe. 1t is Just big enough TO carry
change conveniently and makes a
pendant for chain which is exceed
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

The hoop skirt in any real form has
not been accepted and II is safe 70
say, will not be. but our skirts must
fare and there arc various modiica-
tons Of the hoop skirt indeed appear
ing from time 70 time. An interesting
one is found on a new gown designed
for afternoons or for informal dinner
wear. II consists Of white tulle with
white chiffon and the chiffon is en-
broidered in white and gold. Incl
dentally, il shows also the per-
sistence Of the tunic idea, for there
is an under skirt Of the embroidered
chiffon, and, over il, long full skirt
or tunie Of the tulle and this over
skirt is open at the sides and weighted
across the lower edge with gold fringe.
II is shaped to be longer at the back
and at the front than at the sides.
At the sides, the under-skirt is. wired
with hoops approximately htteen
inches in length, and, as a result.
stands out through the openings OF
the tunic TO give the fashionable
breadth and bouffant effect and there
is a wide girdle of the chiffon that ex-
tends we'll down over the hips and is
edged with the gold fringe. The over
bodice which suggests the bolero idea
is Of the embroidered chiffon and be-
meath it is the thinnest Of tulle into
a guimpe with long sleeves. The
neck is slightly open and finished
with wide rolling collar OF the chiffon.
A second model designed for a young
girls dancing frock Is Of white tafeta.
There is a full skirt and at the lower
edge is, first a ruffle, then three puff
ings separated by heavy cords and
these cords are hrm enough 20 distend
the skirt and give quite the effect Of
modified hoop skirt. A pretty feature
and an unusual one is the finish at the
front where there is a large corded
bow Of the silk. The bodice is in the
pretty round neck style with draped
short sleeves and with a tucker Of
soft tulle that is eminently becoming
and dainty.
The cretonne which has been mem
toned go many times and which has
been put 20 so many uses, persistent
and constantly appearing in some new
forms. Just now, there is a marked
fancy for garden costumes Of all sorts
and little girls, garden costumes con
sisting Of sleeveless aprons, becoming
sun bonnets and simple little baskets.
all Of the cretonne, are much exploited.
There are also boleros of the .cretonne
designed for the grown-ups which can
be worn over any white costume and
which are really very pretty and
quaint in effect. They are made quite
simply with the edges cut into big
scallops or left plain as may be and
edged with fat braid. As a matter OF
course. tbs success Of all such gar
Evening journal., 1915-07-06
FASHIONABLE. GOWN AND HOW
MAKE IT-By MAY MANTON
TO
HOW

under and baste the two together
through the center, leaving the edges
free Slip the lower edge Of the blouse
between the two thicknesses at the G,
upper edge Of the belt with the center Z
backs and the large perforations at
the center front exactly meeting and
the single pcrforations in the belt at
the under-arm seams. Baste carefully
and stitch firmly into place. then we
will be ready for the skirt. 3,
Join the portions. taking up double
seams as already described FOR the
sleeves, then gather at the upper
edge between the double crosses and
slip the gathered edge between the two
thicknesses at the lower edge Of the
belt, placing the center backs and the
large perforations together and the
side seams at the perforations in the
belt, baste and stitch. Then apply
banding over all edges Of the belt
as in the picture. To give the effect
Of a fold at the lower edge. slip the
gown on the wearcr, determine Just
how many inches above the floor you
desire the skirt 10 be, measure with a
yard stick from the floor up, every
few inches, for the entire width Of the
skirt and place pin at the exact mark.
Remove the gown, turn up on the indi-
Gated point and haste. Again try on
the wearer to be quite sure that the
line is even Then hem the skirt It
il is long enough, or, II not, undcrface
il 70 the depth Of seven inches and
apply trimming over the stitching to
give the effect Of a band.
To make the collar and the cuffs
separately, cut from orEandie and
either make double or underface 70 the
dcpth Of one inch. Have them hem
stitched by machine or finish with plain
etitching or with rows Of French knots,
with briar stitching or with any fancy
stitchery that you may like. Cut a
second collar-band from the organdic
and cut the lining just Ike the outside:
In this case, seam the two notched
edges together, then turn over on the
seam. Turn the seam allowance at the
upper edges under and baste. sir
the collar between them, taking uF
lust the seam allowance, baste u
carefully into place and stitch Aftei
having finished the edges oil the Guns
Join them 20 straight bands Of oreandle
making exactly as you have made tn
collar. Sew snap fastenings on tn
collar and on the eolar-band and o.
the bands Of the cuffs. Arrange III
cuffs over the sleeves exactly a
directed on the envelope, turn tn
bands under the sleeves, and sew th
under portions Of the fastenings to n
sleeves. You will then snap the cola
and the cuffs into place and, when the
are soiled, il will be easy to remoy
and wash them. II in place Of Il
organdie you are using material ths
will be sewed TO the gown, Join n
band TO the neck edge Of the Dire
exactly as directed and slip the COLI
between the two upper edges; arranl
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

ments will depend upon the taste and
discretion with which the material is
chosen. IL is to be found in really
beautiful colors and designs that are
well adapted 10 the purpose. but in
the cheaper grades, il is apt to be
crude and aggressive.
So-caiicd sports costumes. but which
are really simple coat-suits, that are
designed for morning wear. are being
developed along exceedingly interest
ing lines. Mention has already been
made OF the Jersey silk costumes and
OF the taffeta coats and we now have
entire suits of satin, which material.
while hardly related 10 the sports
idea, may fairly be said TO be affiliated
when found in the same brilliant color
ing. A notable costume, exploited by
an important house, is vivid green in
color with collar and cuffs Of royal
purple. There is a plain skirt
and a genuine sports coat knotted
with a sash. The effect is pictur-
esque and consequently seems to
belong TO the season and any
novelty is Of course interesting. but a
costume as conspicuous az this one,
would. Of necessity. only be adapted
to limited use, in the grandstand at
the tennis match, or at a polo tcurns-
ment. il would perhaps be in keeping,
but even for sports costume, the
coloring seems a little over-done and
extreme. Italy has scarcely been en-
gagged In the universal struggle long
enough to have its influence really
reach the world OF fashion, otherwise
We might think that the use Of the
vivid green could be traced TO that
d., source. Paris is emotional before all
else and we may be certain that Italy
having Joined with France in its ter
rible struggle, the colors Of the Italian
flag and the Italian influence generally
will be manifest in the coming styles,
il they have not already appeared.
Neck wear makes an important fea.
ture Of summer fashions. Some ol
the newest ruches to have appeared are
Of organdie, very full and plated and
exceedingly becoming and attractive
eminently well suited 70 the summer
gown. They are 20 be found both IN
white and in color and they consist OF
very wide plated frills with very narrow
ribbon which often is black. 70 be
used for the closing. The very charm
ing blue that is known as Soldiers,
is favorite color, but rose tints and
violet tints are 10 be found also and
white is general favorite for genera
wear. The full ruff1e makes pretty
frame for the face and the organdie !,
go thin and light that the ruches are
not open to the objection Of extrems
warmth.
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

TTHlS scns.n D. c-=rn - one ui
embroidery and Of braid and
a latest fashions provide the
needlewomans opportunity. The
snartest blouses are embroidered.
the most costly and the most elegant
children's dresses are finished with
needlework Of one sort or cf another
and even the little boys costumes
have been robbed Of their severity
and are finished with scalloped edges
and with simple, embroidered designs
Hand work marks the most exclusive
gowns. With the aid Of transfer pat
terms, any woman who understands
the elements Of sewing should be able
TO embelish her gowns and her chill
dren's costdmes and to make the se-
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

taeks that 80 often have been de-
scribed. As a first step, we will Join
the two materials for the front OF the
blouse and the front Of the skirt. II
YOU are making them as in this in
stance with banding arranged over
the seams. make these joinings with
the scans on the right side and take
lust the seam allowance, press the
seams open and arrange the bandingH
over them and sew into place at each
edge. either by hand or by machine.
n YOU do not care for the banding,
and are going 10 finish the seams with
either cordings or pipings, it will be
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

necessary to take the seams up on the
wrong side and in such case, either
TO WHY each edge closely or to bind
the edges separately and 70 press open.
Turn the front edges under to the
width Of the scam allowance, then
turn again on the first line Of perlora-
tions for the hcms, haste and either
stitch or fell by hand. The sleeves are
Of the raglan sort and are the easiest
in the world TO make, since there is
no fitting 20 be accomplished. Pin
the edges to the edges Of the blouse,
taxing care 20 meet the corresponding
notches exactly and to make the lower
edres come together evenly. For the
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

cessories Of her home beautiful in the
best and most approved manner. No
trimmed underwear is ever so dainty
or so satisfactory as that which is
finished with ueedlework. The labor
is not excessive as the simple designs
are the preferred ones and the stitches
required are only Of the elemental sort
that. Il not already understood. can be
mastered in a brief time. For under
wear and for many Of the household
linens. hne work is Of course essential,
but for the gowns and suits. bold
effects are the ones sought and heavy
threads are employed that I'll up
rapidly and make a good effect with
out close labor or any considerable
expenditure Of time. To get the best
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

the collar separately, scam the upper
edges together and turn on the seam.
Turn the seam allowance on the lower
edges under and slip the neck edge be-
tween the two thicknesses, letting tine
edges extend just TO the marked out
line Of the pattern. bdste and stitch.
Underface the lower edges OF the
sleeves. using bias strips Of material
threc-quarters Of inch in width and
then gather the blouse at the lower
edge between the double crosses. Cut
two belts. ono Of the material and one
Of the lining material. Turn the scam
allowance on all edges Of each belt
Evening journal., 1915-07-06
LENGTHWISE FOLD

the cuffs over the sleeves with the
notches meeting and the large perlora-
tions at the seams and underface both
cuffs and sleeves together with bias
strips Of material one inch in width.
Lap the fronts Of the gown with the
large perforations meeting and baste
carefully into place. Then stitch the
skirt to position, leaving Just opening
enough to make a comfortable placket
and sew the buttons on as illustrated.
To make the plain gown suggested in
the small view, cut the front OF the
blouse and OF the skirt full size and
proceed exactly as directed.
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

IL dainty himy materials fashionable for dancing
"a frocs and lace and take conspicuous place For
have both afeta and satin and there will be
generous use Of frs and ruchs together with embroidery
executed sometimes silk threads sometimes with beads and
combination Of the Skirts full and harng
trimmings the fact Frequently cords arranged
edge rules wired and under skirts
rued Materials soft and pabe they take exquisite lines
folds they abundany full without of bulk and
they ehangy graceful and bowy effect Net in eocrs
frequently layer another and when the treatment
udcousy handled really wonderful effects obtained
suggestive Of the shmmens coors Of opals sometimes of
the orchid in its marvellous variations For foundation slips thin
silk is liked.
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS
s6s4 Gathered Blouse. 10 and Isy years.
s6os Flouneed Skirt. I6 and rs years.
szo7 Fancy Waist, 10 and IS years
s7o7 Three Tier Skirt. 10 andns years.
ss67 Empire Dress. 10 and IS years.
s67s Empire Dress. 10 and ISyears.
s6s7 shirred Dress, IS and Is years.
szss Infants Coat, and Cap. One Size.
s7zs Child's One-Pieoe Dress.
10 6 years
szze Boys Suit. 4. ami s years
Evening journal., 1915-07-06

sees Gown with Raglan Sleeves. - 70 a bust
joining, baste the seams on the right
side as directed for the bandiugs az
the front and stitch carefully on your
marked outline Of the pattern. Then
apply the banding over the seams. or.
for a plain scam or Tor piping or tor
oording. take the seams on the wrong
side as already directed Baste tbs
undcr-arm and sleeve seams together
on the right side and stitch the smallest
possible scam, then turn and stitch
again on the wrong side on the marked
outline. As a next step, gather the
blouse az the neck edge between the
double crosses Make the collar-band
double and since We are going 70 make
Omaha daily bee., 1915-04-29
DIR. SACHS CHOSEN
TO HEAD ALUMNI
Creighton Medical Men Hold Clinics,
Business Meeting and Banquet
During Day.
SENIOR CLASS IS RECEIVED


Over 200 alumni Of the John A.
Creighton Medical college were on
hand at the annual business meeting
of the alumni association at the Hen
shaw hotel, the headquarters of the
medics, yesterday evening. The men,
bershiD of the organization numbers
about 500. 1913 of whom are prac-
ticing in Omaha and vicinity.
Dr. Adoiph Sachs Of Omaha was Sc
lected president Of the alumni for the
succeeding year. DR.. T. 7. Harris, chief
police surgeon OF this city. was elected
vice president, while DR.. Rudolph R'x Of
this city was reelected secretary and
treasurer. The two outgoing officers arc
Dr. T. J. Dwyerl president. and DR.. @. r.
Dishong, vice president. Dr. Rix holding
over
Following the business meeting came
the banquet in the rathskeller the iarg-
est Of its kind ever staged by the needles.
The large room could not accommodate
the overflow OF medics. and the attend
anee even SURPASSED the antcipations Of
the committee. DR.. NJ. J. Ford acted as
POSTMASTER. while many were the fluent
extemporaneous outbursts which came in
response to Or. Fords introductions
Many more alumni are expected in town
today TO swell the attendance TO an even
greater figure. \, sr
Tuesday morning marked the opening
OF tho fonr-day clinics scheduled by the
clinic committed Cases were clinicei
as scheduled by Drs. A. Sachs. l. B.
Bushinan, II. L. Arnold and II. W.
wishtnfan.l while additional clinics were
introduced by .Drs. Newell. Jones and
Mary Strong, Following the clinics lunch
was served to the entire alumni present
in the dining rooms of the hospital.
Clinics this morning included cases
by Drs. T. ]. aDwyer. c. {. Allison and
L. A, DerInody A clinic by Dr. q. A.
Young at. 2'p. m, Thursday at st. Jo-
seph's hospital hab been announced by
the COMMITTEE in addition to the printed
1chedule. - >,
At the banquet last night the entire
membership OF this years senior class
forty-slx IN number. were admitted to the
alumni organization %
Tonight the nied.cs will attend the an.
nual pan-alurnnl banquet at the Com
mercial club, ana tomorrow night the
commencement exercises at the Brandeis
theater.
Omaha daily bee., 1915-04-29
Face EruptiOns Have
Deep Significance
Often They Indicate I'm
purities Deep in the
Tissues.

The results shown by g. S. s. IN clearing
the skin reveal how searchlngly and how
deeply this famous blood purifier attacks
blood troubles. Facial eruptions are more
often significant OF impaired nutrition result
ing from faulty elimination Of body wastes.
Most people realize this to be true. And
ret II IL q difficult matter 70 convince such
people they should avoid those harmful drugs
such as mercury, iodde Of potash, arsenic
and so on. s. s. s, gives Just ms good effect
without the destructive results, because II is
more searching. II goes deeply into the cir
culation wherever the blood flows, but 1t does
not remain to cleg the system. And its effect
10 complete and thorough as Indicated by
blood tests. One Of the strange things today
10 that SO many people are welded to the
notion that mercury is the one antidote. IL
Ia not so. There is IN 3. s. s. a product OF
nature that Is rated enc Of the most potent
principles known for the complete elimination
of blood troubles.
Wherever you 60 there are people who
know this to be true from their own expert
ence, for II has been clearly shown there Is
enc ingredient In s. s. s. as essential to
health II the blood be impure as the nourish-
Ing elements Of the grains, sugars and salts
OF our daily food. Get a bottle Of S. s. s.
today Of any druggist, but insist upon 8. s.
g., accept no substitute. And II your case il
peculiar or OF long sta nding. write TO the
Medical Adviser, The swift Specific Co., 10t
swift Bldg, Atlanta, Ga.
Omaha daily bee., 1915-04-29
CHICAGO WHALES GET
THIRTEEN RUNS OFF K. C.

CHICAGO. April 1s.-chicaEo made sev-
enteen hith for total OF twenty-six base.
OF Snsef Johnson and Adams today and
peunaed' out is-to-i score against KAN
sas city flack with triple and three
singles and Hanford with two triples and
a nnsle led the attack on the visitors.
whose errors paved the way for a number
OF runs. Brown was battling In the
nnlncneS sore RHE
chicaso 80 $3.50 Oi Eis II
Batteries; Johnson. Adams and Easterly
bnHenroth; Brown and Fischer
Omaha daily bee., 1915-04-29
RACING BILL REPORTED
IN SENATE or ILLINOIS

SPRINGFIELD, NJ, April IA bill
legalixins horse racing. with bookmaking
included, was favorably reported in the
state senate today.
Under the provisions OF the measure a
racing commission OF five members is 20
be appointed by the governor, each 90
hold office six years and 20 receive sal
aries Of $500 a year
Under the terms OF the bill 10 per cent
OF al admission fees and bstting COM
missions are to 50 70 the state.
Omaha daily bee., 1915-04-29
Another Valuable
Dog is Poisoned

A valuable Airedale belonging TO j.
De Forrest Richards. cashier OF the
Omaha National bank. is the latest vic
tim OF the dog poisoning that has been
going on in Omaha for last two weeks
Over dozen other fine animals have
been killed IN the same way. Mrs. Rich
ards decIafos she thinks the brutal work
Is being done by thieves. who ere first
trying to clear the residence district OF
watchdogs. which might interfere with
the work OF burglars.