The Irish standard., 1915-07-03

enriched with tinsel and woven with
the pomegranite design. This was
favorite design in the Sixteenth CEN
tury and was very prominent in the
pageants on the occasion of the mar
riage of Arthur, prince of Wales, and
Katharine of Aragon, and when the d.
vorce Of Henry VIII. and Katharine
came to be agitated, the badge became
a party one.
chasubIe Derived from Cloak.
The chasuble, like kindred vestments
used In the church, was derived from
the Roman cloak, worn by all classes
in the Graeco-Roman world. It was
worn by the clergy as liturgical gar
ment, but it was not until the Elev-
enth century, when the cope had been
established as liturgical vestment,
that the chasuble began to be reserved
as special to the Sacrifice of the Mass.
The chasuble was originally a tent
like robe which fell in loose folds be-
low the knee. Its obvious inconveni-
ence for celebrating the holy mys-
teries, however, caused its gradual
modification. The object of the change
was primarily to leave the hands of
the celebrant free for the careful per-
Torrance of the manual acts, and to
this end process of cutting away at
the side of the vestment began until
the tent-shaped chasuble of the Twelfth
century had developed into the simple
vestment with its straight lines of the
present day. Until the Tenth century
the chasuble was quite plain and then
the custom of decorating with or
phreys, that is, gold or rich-embroider-
ed ornaments representing sacred
scenes, became common. Sometimes
only the vertical orphrey is seen and
sometimes vertical and horizontal,
making the cross. The cross is always
used now on the chasuble and this
vestment is used exclusively in the
Sacrifice Of the Mass and by the cele-
brant. The cope has changed little in
its centuries of use, although the
shield-shaped hood is more commonly
now smaller cape around the shout.
ders, usually richly embroidered. The
cope is used at Benediction of the
Blessed Sacrament, at the asperges in
the mass, and is worn at funerals and
in professions.
The two pieces in this collection are
marvellous examples of embroidery;
the orphreys are especially fine and
are the work of the famous men who
did embroidery in Toledo in the Fiji
teenth century. They are among the
finest textiles in the world and by far
the finest in any private collection in
this country. On the chasuble have
been embroidered three scenes won
derfully impressive and full of feeling
and yet eminently decorative. "The
Betrayal of Judas" in which the cruel
faces of the soldiers, Peter striking
one of them with his sword, and the
calm, unresisting figure of the Saviour,
are clearly depicted; Christ Praying
in the Garden," in which a beautiful
golden robe falls in graceful folds
about Him, near Him the apostles are
sleeping, and in the distance the rab
BILE is seen approaching; "The Cruel
fixion,' with the two Marys at the foot
of the cross, and two angels floating
above it. Lovely little landscapes make
backgrounds in the three scenes. The
cope is heavily and beautifully EN-
broidered with the pomegranite design
and with orphreys of scenes in the life
of Mary which might be the Five Joy
full Mysteries. On the hood of the cope
is an impressive scene of God the
Father holding the crucified Christ az
If to the gaze of mankind. Here il
shown the metal work which makes
the embroidery SO sumrtuous. Above
the cope which hangs between thu
doors is gold strip enriched with sill
yer of Seventeenth century Spanish
work which was part of an altar from
tai used in the private chapel of thu
deposed King of Portugal. The pat
tern is scroll with fruit and the col
ors are lovely.
Cope. Of PenitentiaI Violet.
Another wonderful piece is the beau
tiful cope of penitential violet Of
which the worn surfaces only add t,
the beauty because of the manner IL
which the light shades across it. Allow
it is an example of Petit-Point Of tn
Sixteenth century, fine example Q
English work, showing scenes from tn
life of Christ. Among the most gol
geous Of the textiles is the dalmati
of salmon-colored ground with silve
embroidery. Although 1t is Eighteenth