Evening star., 1915-06-27
1ilitary Ideas Missing in New Feminine Headgear

patterns. is a newe- material FOR coun-
try hats than chintz A pretty sailor
OF indigo and white crepe had its hrim
lined with leghorn ard the edges done
in blue wool in blanket stitch. Wider
shap are made of colored tussore. or
embroidered pongee. or rows Of belt
ribbon STITCHED together. A charming
model is a modified Rehoux sailor of
which is of black straw. while the
crown is of rows of colored silk fringes.
and a tassel falls from the tip.
For street or travelling wear when
something more compact than sailor
is desired. the small boat shape still
holds its own. MANY little hats OF this
type have been inspired by the head
gear of other countries and of various
professions and trades Spanish shapes
initiate the bull fighters round or boat
shaped hat. with irs large porlpons
One model has small pompons of black
wool dotted at intervals all over II
Ecclesia stical diGnitaries have been
forced to contribute new forms to mil
linery. Another model, which is deVel-
oped in straw and velvet or straw and
tulle. is like nothing SO much as
chefs cap. The Chinese shapes, which
were introduced at the beginning OF
the season. have gone the way of the
straw students cap and the Jockey
cap of another season and become too
popular Their influence is still felt.
however, as the Idea was too good to
a ba ndon altogether. A souvenir of
them is the use OF tassels. On a wide
black straw shape a tassel was used In
new way An orange Erosgrain rib
bon was tied around the crown In a
single bow on one side. Upon the other
q loop of orange silk was passed under
the ribbon and then down through the
brim, and an orange tassel dangled
from the under side at the end of the
loop and swept the shoulder of the
wearer.
Military ideas which cropped out IN
February have heen suhdued to mere
suggestions We all feel too deeply
upon the subject Of the war. our
thoughts are too much absorbed by II
as 1t is, and we do not care to have
our clothes reflect them. Small cloche
shapes are taking the place OF trt-
cornes and forage caps. very shiny
weave of satin has been introduced for
millinery. and is combined with straw
in a sort of heret shape. Birds as trim
ming are appearing on early fall mod
els placed fat across the top of small
toaues. Birds cut out of velvet and ap-
piled fatty to a shape are seen occa-
sionaIly. Flowers also are cut out In
this way and follow the tendency to
keep the trimming fiat. The lines OF
the crown are left unadorned in the
newest hats. Suede and kid and patent
leather are used for travelling hats,
which are designed for hard service.
They have no trimming at all, but big
nailhead pins of jet or balls and other
shapes made of beads.
The simpler afternoon hats show
revival of leghorn and Natter and
Boucher effects In lace. roses and rib
bons Here the wide sailor finds re-
yiyal in the shape which turns smartly
up in the back and is filled in there
with roses, while a ribbon passes over
the top and under the hair. Not every
one can wear this shape, for 1t is apt to
dwarf the importance of the face and
make the head appear all hat, unless
the countenance under 1t is unusually
worth looking at. We should never
forget that the hat is only the frame
for the picture. 1t must be subordi-
mated to the face, accentuate its good
lines, distract attention from its poor
ones, intensity too pale complexion,
tone down a too fiorid one. Do not
think of it, and consider buying it, as
a pretty hat, but in its relation to your
own face and head first. and then to
the gowns with which you intend to
wear it. Study yourself in it and dnd
out the most becoming tilt at which
to pose it.
Copyright. 1881