New Britain herald., 1915-03-26

ploit the cut-in-one or kimono idea Sleeves are nearly always set in
 Among fabrics are many decide ly new shades In gray there seem to be endless tones, but almost as much
 may be said of the variations in blue 1 Combinations of hues, like gray and butter-color, are in good taste for a f l ternoon costumes. The white range in
 cludes cream, oyster, palest gray and l ivory-anything except chalk That ] pallid shade is employed only for col 1 lars, cuffs and waistcoats. Very 1 striking magpie effects are found in 1 broadly striped silks, but they are not
 more striking than are the pompa- dour patterns nor certain of the fig
 ured taffetas. These latter patterns
 are snade up with plain silks Foulards
 showing dots set very, very far apart
 arc the grande chic in that material. l Jenny Models Most Popular.
 In considering the salient features 1 of the models from the leading Pari- 1 sian houses, it must be admitted that 1 the creations of Jenny, who has of late attained great popularity. are most important. She introduces l1ght-colored coatees with dark skirts makes a frock's upper portion--the 1 part from the shoulders to the hips of satin and the rest of net or lace,
 and uses the diagonal line from the throat to the armpit in developing
 bodices. -a y~ +ss
 'Paquin's decidedly military taste
 finds vehicles of expression in
 striped soft ribbon so strongly re-
 sembling braid that it is easily mis-
 taken for it, and in the use of dull red
 upon dark blue serge. Paquin, who
 startled every body by combining linen
 and satin has launched still more
 startling idea in a fuschia shaded taf-
 feta frock. It's purple skirt faced
 with cerise, dips deeply at either side
 and these points are weighed with roses attached to the facing and only showing as the wearer walks At front and back the skirt is quite short. Paquin still makes the pannier. loopet1 with either ribbon or roses, and has a penchant for bodices deeply V'd up- on the hips at front-center.
 Callot's skirts are the only ones sue- gestlng scantiness or a tendency tow ard draped effects. Her best creations are elaborate coat-wraps, and on some of these she has stetched( her love for roses to the extreme by using them in rows trailing from the shoul- ders over the sleeves to below the e1 bows.
 Cheruit is rather Quak erish and subdued this season. She is using a great deal of gray. Her skirts show tiers of five deep tucks and she tends decidedly to stiff cuffs and to collars making a deep line over the shoulders. She runs the gamut from a bust deep {yH frock to a chiffon cape-c collar falling to the waist line.
 Drecoll's skirts dip at front and are raised at the sides, as are Lelong,s. His suits are severely military, and his Jackets seem shorter than those from other houses. A most successful , effort in blue voile has a white taffeta Jacket embroidered in dark blue and l a dark blue voile girdle, self-shade 1 em broidered. That is his way of 1 bringing the skirt and jacket of a suit 1 into complete harmony. A long point | ed cuff in voile inserted in tlie sleeves l Is another of Drecolrs individualities l Tn second exceptional model cream | lace and black net ruffles are com- | bined ... | Tulle Ruff1es Worth's Contribution.
 Worth makes t,1l1e ruffles stand out 1 py edglng them with a slender silver 1 cord. The ruffles are on a lavender 1 satin and tulle gown whose bodice is em broidered with lavender and whose sklrt carries bead embroidered bands | on one of which a sapphire note is in- troduced in the form of an ornament on Worth gowns colored beading is taking the place of rhinestones to great extent. At that house they are using stiff grosgrains, silk which may be looked for in large quantities among next autumn's models.
 Doucet still shows many ruffles, and in connection with a five-tier founced skirt has brought out a bodice with an outside applied vest spreading across the shoulders and bust, and running to a sharp point below the waist.
 Georgette is using all manner of crossed effects. She has launched one of the most popular of this seasons three piece costumes.