The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1915-05-23
BY ELEAvoR HoYT BRArNERn

CMMER frocks have been mo-
nopolixing woman's attention for
the past two months; but Just
now the summer coat seems to
have stage csntre.
II IL always . difscuit problem. that
separate coat for summer wear. Motor
coats. sports coats. evening coats are
easily found; but the dressy separate
coat for afternoon wear and the smart
separate coat for street wear seem to
puzzle the designers when the summer
season comes round.
This year the modes are propitious.
however. The new frocks suggest
coat possibilities. consort amicably
with coats and ''moules" of many
types, and the radical change in sill
houette gives to the coat designers
more latitude for variety ana original
ity than they have had in many day.
That the opportunity IL appreciated
the flood of picturesque coat models
pouring from both foreign and do
nestle sources proves.
Some Of these models are fantastic,
as are some Of the new frocks. Many
Of them are picturesque to degree
that would have given the average
woman pause early in the season, but
very large percentage Of them have
picuancy and charm.
One can fnd conservative coats Of
course: but outside the province Of
the severely tailored travel. motor and
street coats conservatism. as we have
known conservatism. IL not greatly in
evidence.
The silk coat Ii the thing, and the
silk coat Is coat of rampant fulness,
of faring width, Of exaggerated ruches
and collars and hounces
Al its ssnartest II Ia likely to be in
taffeta or faiile; yet the designers
have been wise enough to temper the
audacity OF line. in many cases By
using the old favorite charmeuse or
other soft satin which, even at its
fullest. insists upon dropping instead
of haring. II Is in this concession that
the conservative will ind comfort. and
9 combination Of modishness with re-
serve; but It must be admitted that
the best looking OF the satin coats are
rather for evening use than for after
noon wear, and that, for chic after
noon toilet, taffeta is given first place
Some handsome dark blue satin
coats are an exception to this ruling
yet even they look old instead Of
properly frivolous and will be more
likely 10 appeal to the elderly matron
than 10 youth or near youth
As matter of fact the silk coat
OF the season has pronounced ten
dency toward looking odd" The full.
mantleiike lines are responsible ror
this and the only way to offset the
note is to exaggerate the lines almost
TO the point OF absuriity--to make the
coats so daring that only youth could
take the dare.
Hence the extremes OF the coat
season. Many women will delight In
them. but others will sigh for the
days when straight swashed or cling
ing coats topped straight ciInging
frccks and it was not nearly SO ditfi-
cult to be consistently modish as IL
~ this season.
There's the trying thing about this
summers fashions. Once departed
from the ofd no half way measures are
possible. With the very new coat
there must he the ultra new frock, the
ultra new hat. To be in the picture
ene must be entirely in the picture or
hook extraordinarily absurd. To be
sure, one may look extraordinarily
absurd even when completely a In
mode from top to toe, but there liz
modish absurdity, and there is alb
surdity that does not achieve modish-
ness. and between the two the average
feminine mind conceives a great gulf,
Generally speaking the smart silk
coats OF the season are OF two types,
the eapelfke or. to speak more ac-
curateiy. mantlelike type, and the
straighter line. widely flowing type.
In the matter of length there Is
considerable diversity Three-quar-
ter length and half length are both
much In evidence. but the bottom line
b often very irregular.
Many shorter coats of silk are ap-
pearing. too. quite a. fun as the longer
ones, quite a. narrow OF shoulder
and high OF ruche or collar, but as a
rule distinctly more youthful In air
II not more graceful.
Occasionally among these esort
coats one sees a model very graceful
rs well as chic. A little full. slightly,
draped mantle OF bright rose char
meuse was case in point. II had
from the rear the appearance Of n
short. very full cape. but side and
front displayed an embryonic kimono
sleeve. front lines sloping up toward
the bust and draped just the merest
bit TO give a graceful flow.
A high soft collar In the back a
scarf Of matching tulle running under
the cellar and ending In very big
chou and short wide ends at each
side OF the chest, and there one had
a most deiectabie little summer wrap
that was Enthusiastically OF the new
season and yet not too aggressiveiy