Evening star., 1915-07-25

torianism which pervades our costumes.
unobtrusively. the gathers at the wrists
are tied In tightly with bracelets of
black velvet ribbon
1t Is probable that this type Of sleeve
will suggest Itself as the easiest way
out of the contending and various fac
tions when one has to do the choosing.
Its chiefest fault is that 1t is not gen.
in its worst light A compromise be-
tween 1t and the more flamboyant style
known as Elfzabethan would not be
amiss.
Although the bell-shaped ending to
sleeve was used SO commonly last
autumn that fastidious ones avoided
1t, there is good reason to believe 1t
will show itself on many of the new
frocks. Modification will set in. it will
be considerably shortened. Its bell-like
mouth dropping few inches below the
elbow. and beneath 1t full pun of
some transparent fabric; a more artis-
tic trick in the minds of many is to
cover the lower arm with a tight cuff
of lace that extends we'll over the hand.
This trick. you see. is Italian.
There are other sleeves that are cop
led from those worn by the kings
jester, gone from the throne now ex-
cept on the stage. These are in two
parts, one tight, extending to the wrist.
the other swinging loose from back Of
the elbow with its edges sewed together
except for the few inches where the
arm slips through. On summer frocks
OF organdie and lace. or even thin silk.
the effect is especially graceful.
The sleeve that is frankly old fash
nation can take on a new lease of life
by being cut of at the elbow, then
faced with color and dropped over a
full cuff Of white batiste or organdie
which ends at the wrist in a small frill
and a bracelet of black velvet or satin
ribbon.
At the present moment there is no
contradiction to the styles in sleeves
and 1t is probable that one is safe until
the late autumn at any rate. August
may bring surprises from the French
houses which will dominate the styles
here toward Christmas. but 1t Is more
likely that the mass of people will buy
their early. necessary fall clothes from
the American models, which were begun
by the manufacturers In June. They
have never had a lasting success, be-
cause the manufacturers themselves
copy all the newer fashions in Novem-
Der, ousttng one set with another.
-
All that was rumored about the pop
ularity Of muslin this season came
true 1t is an evidence Of good sense
on the part Of the American people.
Serge and silk are excellent materials
to keep for the occasional day in the
warm weather period, but for daily
usage nothing Is better than some va
riety Of wash muslin.
Paris is usually backward about in
Producing any kind Of wash frock ex-
cept the elaborate and expensive one
made of exquisite fabrics and covered
with hand embroidery, but this year
she has taken up with a variety Of
wash frocks that have been copied
over here.
1t is never necessary. however, to 20
across the water to get ideas in thin
daytime frocks. for they are our espe-
cial property; the southerners can give
out dozens Of attractive ideas in
days work. for they depend on them
Tor all occasions during six months in
the year.
As early as June one was surprised
to see so many one-piece wash frocks
on 9Th avenue. They were usually in
fine striped fabrics, made with full
skirts and loose blouses confined at a