The Washington herald., 1915-01-27
NEW YORK
FASHION
LETTER
BY
A4RE LA ROCQLE

disappointment and distress to many Of
the followers of fashion. Some seek deep
and abstruse reasons for the rather sud-
den change from clothes that marked a
tremendous advance from the conven-
tionaI rules of fashion-rules that had
persisted for century, and. with slight
intermissions, for centuries before that.
Others lay the change simply to the inev-
liable fact that fashion is change. One
clever little French dressmaker. trans
planted to New York from Paris, lays
this, like many other evils, to the war.
IF Paul Poiret had not been caIleG
to the front" she laments we should
never, never have been troubled with ali
these flounces. For Mr.. Poiret-he
worked, always. toward simplicity"
When one remembers the erratic Min
aret tunic. which oSpanated from Poiret,
one, at first, disagress with the little
Frenchwoman. Yet erratic as that tunic
was, it WAS not. "fussy.'' There was
certain wide sweep and dignity in its
lines that saved it. Poiret always
works for dignity and simplicity and per-
haps the dressmaker is right.
Some New Details.
SINCE fashion is made up of details
this season. II behooves the woman
who WOULD dress well to look to details
II they are important, they are worthy
all attention.
One finds many interesting details in
the short, high sleeves of the new even
ing gowns. Some of them are tiny pufrs,
made of stiff silk, trimmed with rose
buds and frills of lace. Then there is
the sleeve that is made Of a five or six
inch ruffle of lace sometimes wired a
little at the bottom to flare out in the
same wide manner as the skirt One such
sleeve was dropped over a tiny, close
fitting sleeve Of tulle. edged at the bot
tom with three bands of narrow black
velvet ribbon. The lace had silver
threads worked into the pattern, and
these threads were stiffened at the lower
edge to hold the lace out, hoop-fashion.
Leghorn hats are another detail of the
coming spring fashions. Already they are
much work at Palm Beach and other
Southern resorts. They are decidedly in
keeping with the full-skirted frocks. es-
pecially when they are big and are shaped
into a modified poke bonnet. Much col
oTed tulle is used on these leghorns-big
bows and puffs and strings and stream
ers Of 1t.
There is a new pump for afternoon
wear that is interesting. It is something
like the Colonial pump of recent renown.
excepting that the tongue is in one piece
with the vamp. So cleverly shaped is
II, however. that II gives no discomfort
to the high arch and instep.
Figured net, white ground with how-
ers in coloi Is one OF the fabrics of the
moment-and a very pretty one It is. 1t is
well suited for full. fiouneed skirts; and
the large colored figures break its mo-
notonous surface ckarmingly.
Worsted embroidery is another fad OF
the moment. Much Of It comes from
Paris-on hats. on serge frocks, and even
on cotton. The worsted Is in bright
colors. the embroidery is coarse and ef-
fective.
From Palm Beach one hears that much
sand and putty color Is worn-in serge
in linen and in silk, as well as in satin
and fraille. A novelty is sand-eolored
organdy. A lovely frock In which II Is
used shows a lace tunic swung over the
full organdy skirt. an organdy bodice
trimmed with lace. and faded violet
velvet girdle.