The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-02

,Srocks are concerned that generaliZa-
an does not apply; for changes of
season have little to do with that de-
nartment Of the clothes problem. A
few velvet dance frocks laid aside;
little fur omitted from trimming
,chemes and evening frocks for white.
and summer may be interchangad
rulle and chiffons and laces are as
much in place on a December night
a. in a night Of midsummer.
Some adorable little dance frocks
~ organdy, batiste and other lingerie
stufs are appearing and the best OF
these have, perhaps. more perfectly
than any other up to date creations
Of fashion the true Victorian flavor,
rhyme more perfectly with hounces
and crinolne, with velvet neckbands
and Hopping brimmed Leghorn hats
and nippcd in waists. The crisp. sheer
white organizes. in particular. are
erninently Of the period and II the
girls who buy them can attune them
selves to white muslin and blue rib
hons. men who remember the grand
mothers Of these same girls and regret
the passing Of the type may have o
season Of content.
Not that the organdy and ribbon
mode Is likely to have any strong in
f,uence on feminine psychology. The
modern girl will manage to be ultra
modern even IL II pleases her to mas
ouersde as her own grandmother: but
a, least an occasional summer girl
will look the Victorian part this year.
Some OF the designers become even
-. IL
Of Victorian ideas as the season adj
vances. With Cabot sturdily arguing
the case for the women who cling to
straight line frocks and a multitude Of
women slowly and thankfully COM
Ing to q realization that they need
not willy nilly accept the extremes Of
the new silhouette and that host Of
discreet compromises are offered 70
them, these ultra Victorian manifesta-
lions may he regarded with interes-
even with applause, and quite without
alarm.
They will suit some women and
many girls admirably. II is to he
hoped that these same women and
girls will appreciate the fact and give
us the pleasure OF seeing them in the
frocks. II is. too, prayerfully hoped
moreover that the women and girls
who are not adapted to Victorian
modes will appreciate the fact and re-
strict their ambition to less aggressive
phases Of modishness.
Some OF the silk frocks Of the radi-
cal crinoline type are as charming, IL
no, quite so perfectly in the picture.
As the muslins. Taffeta is used for
most OF them. II has the crispness
along with suppleness that is so de-
airable where crinoline effects are to
~ Appropriated without the support
OF the hoop skirt that once extended
silken skirt folds.
Horse hair bands, fine, flexible but
more effective than one would ina CINE
from looking at them, are sewn into
hens and sometimes encircle the skirt
a. intervals up to the knees, but these
offenders are too yielding to produce
any real stiffness and skilfully intro
duced do not interfere with grace OF
movement and the soft flow OF folds.
One example OF the very Victorian
srock is illustrated in a small cut on
this page and there is no denying the
quaint charm OF the type, even though
one NAV MT elect IN 20 clad in such
fashion The sill, "a ,aNe,a ~ This
su,nhur ,e,Iou, ,h,t has haon a nou
old fashion during the past year and
each Of the many ruffies on the full
crnolined skirt is narrowly edged
with lace after the fashion Of long 400
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