Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-05

| often done the artistic thing without
any followers, and later each Of his
startling ideas have been taken up and
| used as something popular. They were
| nearly always refused in the beginning
! and rarely have they brought TO him
a reasonable monetary success from
! the Americans. He is rich. as all those
| French designers are. but he has never
made his money. as they have, through
| highly diversified wholesale channels,
although he has dominated fashions for
| the world as has no other one person.
| ahty in the business. He does the
thing in heroic size and makes the
world gasp, then host OF followers
come along and twist and turn the Idea
! to more commercial advantage and
reap the harvest of coin.
1t is natural that the swaying back
to the Russian styles should bring in
any kind of f1aring long coat. therefore
that Polish production now known as
the best blouses. notably by Cheruit.
who introduced it early in the summer
without any followers.
All her new coats flare widely at the
hem, as do those by Callot. who held
to this model last summer when nearly
all the other prominent houses were
| featuring long, fiaring jackets.
! Cabot still uses the belt on coats, al
though she does not avoid that pinch
ed-in effect to which she gave such
! slightly below the normal waist line
! and not tight. There Is no hint of Vic
| torianism there. She is also true to
type in evening gowns.
Her narrow skirt has not been en- =
larged, which may account for SO many
narrow evening frocks being worn at
Newport this summer by leading So
c1ety women who are always dressed
by Callot throughout the seasons.
whether or not they go abroad. She
| uses trains. snakelike affairs, as she
has always done, and Cheruit also
brings out lovely white brocade even
! ing frock that has a long. twisted train,
that crawls along the floor after the
| wearer.
These features are surely not Rus
| sian, and they, along with the dtrec-
toire and Girondin tendencies of MILL
merry. will serve to Offset any undue
popularity of one leading style. which
| is always an unfortunate thing for
| commerce well as for the indiyid-
| ualists. who cannot look their best un-
| less they are allowed some latitude in
choosing styles.
The novelty of the house Of Paouin
| Is the colored jacket Of leather which
is added to cloth skirt. Probably this
| was suggested to her by the fashions
of the medieval soldier who wore a
| leather Jerkin when he was not able to
buy armor. 1t goes back to the time of
Robin Hood and his forest men, And
from this period also comes the revival
OF the dark-green hunting cloth that
| is featured In the new collections With
skirt of Lincoln-green broadcloth
and jacket or jerkin of leather fas-
tened down the front. high of neck and
| long of sleeve. we may bear some faint
resemblance to the gay young adven-
| turers and fighters of those much sung
days.
| Paquin's jackets are closely modelled
after the warriors protective coat of
early medieval soldiery. but the skins
are much softer and more suitable to
! feminine figures. There is little doubt
! that they will make an attractive addi-
ton to the costumery of the winter
| especially as they are to be lavishly
| trimmed with fur. unlike the habit Of q
| warrior.
The use of leather on street suits is
not exactly new. 1t was ventured last
| spring, and during the late summer II
was advanced on the first cloth suits
advocated for autumn wear. It is i'm
mensely attractive, and gave women a
new way to adorn a cloth jacket
The all-leather jacket has not been