The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-04-19
REAL COFFEE.
strong. Thoroughly Cooked. Rich OF
Taunjn. MiIkIess, Sugarless.


To THE EprroR OF THE SuN-Sir. The
contribution Of Edward Aborn to your
discussion Of coffee making IL most
enlightening in that II brings out clearly
the chemical distinction between the
real drink Of the true coffee lover and
the feeble imitation of it affected by
those estimable II neurasthenic old
ladies whose self-defensive precept de-
clares that coffee should never be
boiled"
Mr.. Aborn states that the infusion
resulting from a momentary contact OF
boiling water With the finely pulverised
berry contains but 0.29 grains OF fannie
acid TO the cup. while the thoroughly
cooked brew is enriched by 2.40 grains
or more OF that sinful extractive. In
this difference we have undoubtedly an
explanation OF the fact that we'll cooked
coffee II a nne, robust and palatable
beverage, while the product OF the mo-
mentary contact or incomplete cooking
Ia a fiat. insipid and unsatisfying trav-
esty thereof. My suspicion OF years
thus 10 verified: II II tannin that makes
good coffee 80 extraordinarily good
and there IL nothing whatever In the
coffee bean that the real devotee OF the
drink does not want.
Tho ordinary American, represented
IN countless homes wherein the degus-
clamorings of hunger, Is brought up in
pitiful ignorance OF the true merits Of
coffee. From childhood his taste Is
vitiated by gulping down with his food
weak, dishwatery decoction OF I'M
substantial coloring matter 30 unat-
tractive In it's own right that he must
have resort to drenching II with milk
and A sickening dose OF saccharine con-
lection In an effort 20 seduce his palate
t,,tA - go tp0 NAfh mi
And II In the making OF this parody
on the real thing there remains In it,
after an absurd and needless process
of settling" few particles OF honest
coffee grounds and a suspension of the
pulverized berry the stuff Ia condemned
by neighborly housewives as muddy"
The truth Is that the mud" In the
mess of our ordinary domestic habit
IL the only part OF It possessed Of any
real virtue, for the rest is merely a
vapid stain. Coffee, forsooth The
great mass Of the population scattered
over our broad and smiling land never
has tasted any.
All the substance, the body. ma full.
strong. rich flavor that results from n
liberal use ~ tho bean and thorough
cooking. all tho supreme virtue that
makes real coffee superior TO the choicest
NJ liquors and almost the equal Of fine
family beverage because OF profound
ignorance OF its existence. an ignorance
resulting chiefly from systematic per-
version of taste through years OF pam
dering 10 the sweet tooth" OF child
hood. Coffee adulterated with cream or
sugar. even II properly prepared be-
fore the crime Is committed. is coffee
robbed OF rs distinctive excellence and
utterly ruined for the taste OF those
who love II for its own peculiar charac-
ter and worth.
Quite as II requires moral effort for
one whose forebears scklied their salads
with acidulated sugar to overcome the
disadvantage Of early training, so also
IL requires years OF prayerful renun-
citation to rid ones self completely OF
that childish rerversion OF taste which
yearns for sweetened drink and u
learn really to appreciate clean.
STRAIGHTFORWARD. outstanding coffee with
no nauseous imposition OF infantile Sc
duction; and only when this reform Of
debased sapidity has been accomplished
can there begin real education in the
higher ethics OF inhibition. But when
| at last ones addiction 10 the candied
| abomination Of childhood has been re-
placed 10y a distinct repugnance toward
| any communicating adm!x.ure with the
pure beverage. then and not I'll then
is the way opened 10 a lifetime Of en-
j,yment VI the superb coffee served in
the epIcurean communities NJ Europe
/ and from them introduced into a Few
! a very few, alas of the most discrlm,-
| mating hotels. restaurants and house
/ holds OF our own gastronomlcally be-
| nighted country.
Away with uncooked coffee, vain
/ Utilization ~ the nostrils and IA,
/ ,sIppoirtWert 10 the palate, Those
/ who have earned better will have moth
| ing to do with the insip.d attenuation
/ and II their constitutions won't stand
r substantial drink they prefer pur,
/ water t. any eTnascuatcd imitation OF
| q noble brew. FRED MErCALF.
] PLAtSFtELn. ~. y. April II.