The Washington herald., 1915-10-10
By MARGARET WADE.

::
With the question of dyestuffs assum-
ing the proportions to create quarrel in
the Cabinet at home and international
disduietude involving our relations with
London and Berlin, what wonder that
the color of miladys gown becomes even
more important than the line of her
bodice or width of her skirt? For the
woman who believes in American fash
ions the season of 19l5-1916 affords a here
tofore undreamed-of opportunity for put
ting her faith and patriotism TO the test.
and adopting not only the models now
being exploited in the autumn style
shows from New York to San Francisco,
but also in employing the home-woven
and hone-dyed fabrics modelled on the
imported goods of former years.
That the home products fall far short
of the foreign weaves in finish and color
IS regretfully conceded by the majority
of American manufa Cturers, importers,
and modists, as we'll as by their patrons.
but according to great American mer-
chant the fault is not in American
workmanship or artistic PERCEPTION, but
IN the climatic conditions of the Eastern
States. where the oldest mills are sit
uated, which conditions make fast colors
impossible in many of our made-in-
America fabrics.
Too much sunshine is evidently as
detrimental to the coloring of the nat
ural silk or wool as too little. as is
shown in certain industries where skilled
chemists and foremen have como from
the manufacturing centers of France and
Austria to direct the output of the
American mills. These same mills are
now threatened with suspension unless
supplied with large cargoes of German
dyes. or unless the women of America
agree TO wear the neutral tints in gray
and brown. which are procurable from
native ingredients. or the practical and
never out OF style combination Of white
and black.
Mrs. Norman Gait. whose forthcom-
ing marriage TO the President of the
United States. makes her the most
Ialked-of woman in America, as we'll
as the subject of numerous cable dis
patches, is the sponsor of the white
cloth tailored suit as well as the all
white dinner and afternoon gown.
During the past week Mrs. Gait has
been wearing a coat and jacket of
the latest w"ave OF white serge show
ing d heavy twill and dull finish The
skirt is six inches off the ground with
the circular flare. but is not more than
three yards wide at the hem. which
aS skirts go IS medium width. The
Jacket which is braided in military ef-
!"cts across tho front. has the hign
collar and the long close coat sleeves
coming well over the wrist as well
the new line in the under arm,
seam. that shows the return Of the
curved waist line.
Very dainty low -h0es entirely in
white leather. with silk hosiery also
plain white. and q small black velvet
hat trimmed with a single black ais
Tette. with white gloves We're part
OF this extremely becoming street
-uit
On another and cooler afternoon the
Fresident's hride-to-be wore a tailor
cd suit on much the same lines but
of dull gray suede-lIke cloth with
black fur collar. black hat and black
shoes
Although there is a marked absence
If color IN all of Mrs Galt's gowns
and suits, she is not in mourning.
For the woman who will have her
GOWNS from Paris or from London even
in war time there will he wonderful Gre
atoms OF a new combination silk show
ing metal threads interwoven with silk.
and coloTed only as silk can be Colored
at Lyons or Bordeaux These most eX,
Qonsive weaveS of the season will have
tn" advantage of being beyond imitation
% that the woman who has a brand new
iIoported gown will enjoy the satisfaction
If knowing II is in fact in name eN
siUSi-c.
Mr;. George Narye. wife of the Am
haSsIdor TO Russia who has been making
short visit home to give her Washing
ton ard New York friends the opportu-
nit of seeing several handsome gowns
n tn" latest mode before saiIinS to re
ruin her husband abroad.
ifavin" spent 4 part of the summer in
California, from which State M. Marye
N"r appointed 10 the diplomats service.
Hir. Mcryc took advantage of the direct
inl, "rtations from the Orient. which were
nd" 10 her orders. R-cCadcs in white
and -nil. odd tones i'll PINK. yellow and
chinese blu satins. almost un-
known in Europe. are coming into the
nit"d States via San Francisco in such
large invoices that if the European war
lasts arothor year American women of
cXtralagant tastes may look to the
l'aCif:c rather than the Atlantic ports for
tn" material Tor their more elegant at
tire.
Mrs Mary has selected white velvet
|: "radod in gold for what may bc con-
s.dcred her lpndsomest dinner gown
Sf" has also n White satin gown with
the new drap"d skirt and open front, the
litter showing n nCt:iCoat of some new
metal ran lace in hotn gold and silver.
An example of good dressing along
neutral lines and tintS. IN no way the
result of eNpedienCy. is that of Miss
Calestone EuStis. OF WASHINGTON. famous
rom Bar Harhor to Aiken. 5. G, for her
wonderful variety of gray gowns The
Htter range from tailored costume OF
nrchair for travelling to silver satin and
soft gray tulie CrnhclliShed i'm old family
lace for dinner parties. During the be-
tween season. which is now the only
season Miss Eustis passes in Washing
ION. she is wearing a one-pieCe Gown
nt radium silk that to the uninitiated
would seem to be 4 surerlatively choice
nonsee. but in silver color rather than
the unbleached tint
The fashion of bright or light col
ors in sports suits. introduced at
Newport. in the pas summer. is hold
ing it's own through the Washington
autumn. when the Country Clubs are
the social centers of the Capital as
regards both official and resident
families.
Mrs. Arthur Lee the youngest
daughter of former Senator Henry G.
DAVIS. one of Washington's best dress
ed matrons. is wearing a gold colored
Jersey cloth skirt and coat severely
plain. but of skilled workmanship,
that is the envy of all her friends.
TIL" jacket is finished in collar and cuffs
that on cool days look like fur. but
are presumably Angora wool. A soft
white hat with close clipped aipreffe 4