davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23
LATEST FASHION NOTES

of our grandmothers and great-grand-
mothers and whether we really resort
to their measures or not. Nothing Is
certain, but it is very doubtful that
we will give up the freedom from
restraint which has resulted from the
rebellion against anything like really
tight corset. 1t is difficult to con-
ceive of woman Of today conserving
under any conditions to repetition
of the lacing in that was an accepted
fact in the middle of the last century,
but it is never wise to assert what will
or will not be worn, for Dame Fashion
exercises potent charm. and she has
been known to exercise Judgment and
good sense entirely, and there often
seems to be no limit to her power.
Unquestionably Aaring skirts are to
be the rule, however, and circular
semi-circular, plated and gathered
models are shown, tut because this
is true, it must not be understood that
the long becoming tunic is passe.
Recently there have arrived some
advanced models from Paris and TUNES
showing just wee bit OF the skirt
beneath were found in that collection,
while no less an authority than Lucille
is exploiting some tunics in her output
of early models for the trade. In the
collection there is shown very beau
tiful gown Of dark green silk faille
designed for afternoon wear. The
simple bodice is almost plain with
full long sleeves. but it is relieved OF
severity by little vestee of tucked
muslin which is cut in one piece with
the standing collar, the latter being
high at the back and pointed upon
each side Of the front. The skirt is
long, very full and has tunic that is
laid in plaits at the waist-line. and
is edged with a band Of black tulle.
below which just a wee bit OF the
skirt is to be seen. There is very
wide draped girdle Of the material
which is arranged just at the normal
waist-line, and the lines OF the entire
costume are eminently charming and
attractive. An entirely new model
and one which is replete with interest
is made of taffeta in one OF the new
shades known as citron. 1t combines
pointed bodice with V-shaped neck
and full gathered skirt which is dis
tended by means Of bonings which
extend to about the knees. The bodice
is completed with full long Bishop
sleeves Of shadow lace, and there are
two frills Of this lace arranged on the
skirt, and each Of these frills is headed
with band OF frayed silk which is
shirred slightly and is set on to form
succession of small points. What
ever else may or may not be true, the
Spring is to be season OF quaint
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23

That we are to wear short coats is
IN established fact. but short means a
great many things and may be inter-
,reted a tiny little jacket suggestive
II the Elton idea and may be inter-
oreted a coat Of finger or of wrist
ength, consequently while short is the
alismanic word of the season it really
represents variety. Skirts must be
Iull in one way or in another, but the
Iullness may be achieved by circular
tut or by plaits and often the plaits
are laid in way to suggest the panel
effect>and to give straight lines when
the wearer is in repose. Gabardine is
one of the first favorites, but French
sserge will be extensively used, broad
cloth is always good fabric for Spring
wear. poplin weaves, in wool and in
silk. are to be extensively used and
there are certain satin suitings that
ire n1arvelously rich and beautiful in
effect and which will be exceedingly
fashionable for dressy afternoon cos
tunes.
Evidences Of military influences are
10 be found and braid trimmings and
the straight closed collars that will be
warm in the early season but the
exaggerative effect is not chosen by
the good dressers and with the coming
warm weather open, rolled collars will
take place of the closed ones Colors
. vary, but the sand and the putty
shades are to have great favor and
the lighter tans are to be much worn.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23

favorite at the present. In addition
to its other advantages it has only
two seams and is easy to make, but it
is we'll to caution the home dress
makers that sagging must be avoided
if good results are to be obtained and
to avoid the sagging certain steps must
be taken.
OF necessity there are two bias
edges scanned together at each side Of
the skirt, and these bias edges will
stretch Clever dressmakers attach
the skirt to the band and let it hang for
a length of time, even,pulling and drag
ging the seams to facilitate the stretch
ing process, and when they feel that
all the sagging is accomplished that is
likely to be, the skirt is trimmed off
evenly at the bottom. There is talk
about irregular skirt edges, but as a
matter of fact, they never look we'll
and are not used by those who know
how to handle materials and designs.
The young girls costume that is
shown here is made of one OF the
French serges in the color known as
Rocky Mountain, with a fine, thread
like stripe and is trimmed with collar
and cuffs of black velvet. The skirt is
the semi-circular one just discussed
and the yoke coat is of especial interest,
for yokes are to make a feature OF
coats as we'll as blouses. Here the belt
is arranged over the fronts, but some
girls will like it passed through open
ings in the seams and under the fronts
to give straight effect.
The little girls coat also shows a
yoke which produces the Empire effect,
and the Empire coat is sure to be be-
coming to children's figures The little
irocks show one on Empire line and
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23

w IE are not quite certain what
NJ will be the accepted styles
for actual Spring, and will
not be until the last word from Paris
has been spoken, but there are ten
denotes, and through some subtle
power there seems to be mental tele-
pathy" sufficient to state that all de-
sigpers are working along similar lines.
Evidently we are to have very wide
haring skirts, with little trimming for
the street. and we are to have much
of the raised waist-line. with what is
known as the pinched-in effect
little above what is known as the
natural waist-line Whether the cos
tune is designed for the street or tor
the house. there is a very marked
effort to introduce crinoline and small
waists, and the effort is too general to
be disregarded. The far-famed Mrs.
Castle is now appearing in musical
comedy which calls for the newest
and smartest Costumes and many
of her skirts are distended with boning
to give the real crinolne effect. al
though as yet. nothing like hoop
skirts have appeared That we will
not wear anything suggesting crinollne
en- the street is foregone conclusion
for present conditions would render
such fashion absolutely impossible.
but we will give the suggestion in
stiffened facing and in trimming that
causes the skirt to stand away from
the ankles, and in various other treat
ments of that sort While in the
indoor costumes we may look tor
various notifications and suggestions
of the crinoline idea, and since crino-
line and the normal waist line always
go hand in hand we may appear to
have laced ourselves after the manner
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23

There are many new and beautiful
blues that are fashionable, green's and
violets also take prominent place
while great deal Of black with color
may be expected. Whatever influ-
ences the world largely influences
dress. Black, of sad necessity, is in
great demand across the sea ,undoubt-
eddy it will appear here also, but re-
lieved by color used in attractive ways
Circular and semi-circular skirts
always are graceful, but perhaps the
semi-circular is a little more Of the
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23

FEBRUARY is practically be-
n tween seasons month, for while
: we have many cold days we also
have mild ones that bespeak the
coming spring. and the thoughts of
womankind are sure to be turned to
new and pretty costumes with which
10 greet the bright sunny weather
when it shall have come to stay.
Here, in the illustration are shown
some Of the newest and smalt test
models for coat suits together with
children's costumes that are as pretty
Ind as charming as can be.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23

one the low French line, and the two
are equally fashionable. In the picture
only one is made of flouncing, but the
Empire frock also is straight at its
lower edge, and can be used for
flouncine or bordered material.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23

effects, and that fact is evident wher-
ever one goes. The slightly raised
waist-line is favorite, and a great
many Of the new gowns are showing
narrow bands completing the bodice.
with double frills OF the material below.
A most attractive gown that is to 60
South this week is made OF light
weight taffeta in white with dainty
black figures. just the sort Of silk TIT
a generation ago was known by the
name Of summer, but which today we
call chiffon taffeta. The skirt is Of
moderate width with wide puff
arranged one inch or more above the
edge, and this puff is shlried to form
its own heading at upper and lower
edges. There is long full gathered
tunic that is edged with band o!
black ribbon, and the little short
wasted bodice is trimmed with velvet
ribbon and finished with trill Of the
same, and with plated frill below.
There is a vest of fine white muslin
and there are muslin under-sleeves,
and the daintiness and charm Of the
costume are difficult to describe.
Unquestionably we shall see great
deal OF black and white. Of sad neces-
sity black is being extensively worn
across the sea, and conditions always
influence fashions. But here black will
be relieved by color, but black never
theless will be conspicuous in the
Spring costumes. An extremely hand
some street suit designed for Palm
Beach is made Of black French serge.
There is moderately full skirt gath
cred at the belt, and at each side OF
the front, and there are simulated
pockets, the effect being produced by
little line of blue MORE, which might
be a facing and this facing is out
lined with narrow ball-fringe. while
again outside this line, there is en-
broidery in gold and black threads.
The coat is full at the front. extended
only to the waist-line and it is finished
with a sash of black satin ribbon. but
in each front, there is conventional
design embroidered with the gold and
black, and the sleeves are similarly
finished at the wrists. The back OF the
coat is plain and loose, falling just
to the lower edge Of the belt, and the
sash falls in two long, straight ends to
the edge Of the skirt. There are
tiny revers which meet the flaring
collar, and both collar and revers are
of the blue MORE.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-01-23
HINTS for the HOME NEEDLE WOMEN
HOW TO EMBROIDER
A ROUND COLLAR

TIME scalloped edge is to be button
holed, the stems are to be cut
lined, the sprays of leaves and
dots can be worked solidly or as eye
lets. The dots in the center of the
circles can be worked as punched
work, as French knots or as tiny eye
let's. When punched work is used the
ovals surrounding the dots are to be
worked solidly. When French knots
or eyelets are used they can be
worked either solidly or as eyelets.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-06-24
WHAT OUR NE|GHBORS SAY
Vermont Must Turn to Dry Farming
and Thus Profit by Experience
OF Foreign Countries.
tFrom the Bennington Banner. }

tF'rom the Bennington BannerD
broken the shortage OF precipitation dur
ing the growing season for several years
should teach growers Of crops to learn
something of the methods of so-called
dry farming which is the only kind of
farming there is In some sections OF this
country and in many places abroad. In
practice dry farming means chiefly
constant cultivation to conserve the
moisture there is in the ground After
every rainfall crops are cultivated just
as soon as the ground can he worked
This stirs tho surface of the ground and
while the land may look to be dryer It is
only the top layer or mulch and radiation
Of moisture underneath is stopped to
larger degree. The Italians are the most
successful dry farmers" In the world,
and in some parts of Italy and in this
country raise fine crops where there Is
almost no rainfall after the seed Is plant
ed In the spring. They save what mcst-
ure there is by keeping the surface
stirred every few days. While in Yer
mont We have no fear OF failure of
rainfall, 1t Is a good thing FOR every
farmer and gardener 70 know that after
his potatoes. corn and other cultivated
from a dry spell by frequent cultivation
and stirring of surface soil. Without
fail after every rain the cultivator should
be used until the crop growth gets large
enough to shade the ground
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-06-24

solution for this purpose Five quarts OF
cream OF lime dime slaked to consistency
Of cream, pint Of zlnoleum, one
quart Of kerosene. This mixture" adj
vises Lewis, should be well stirred and
diluted with an equal amount Of water,
then applied with force-pump through
a fine nozzle. Used in this way, the
solution will accomplish three things
more rapidly and easily than II applied
with brush; a thin coat Of whitewash
will be evenly applied and spread with
force enough to put it into small cracks
and crevices; the zinoeum will kill any
disease germs which may be lurking in
the house; the kerosene will destroy or
drive out all red mites, and to some ex-
tent body-lice. the former being easily
exterminated by this spray, and the lat
ter by means of a good lice powder in
connection with the spray"
While the house is In the process Of
being cleaned. remove all portable fix
lures. such as nests tnever use nests
which cannot be easily handled), roosts,
feed hoppers, etc. and give them 4 good
washing in boiling water, then dry them
In the sun. If there are window storm
curtains brush them Thoroughly. also re-
move all the old litter and burn It. In
returning the nests to their places put
some tobacco stems in the the bottom to
discourage lice Sunlight and plenty Of
fresh air are both essential to the good
health Of the fowls.
DESIRABLE HOUSE.
\ house. cox2o feet in size. 9 feet h.gn
in front and 2 feet in the back. will
provide ideal conditions for both sunlight
and fresh air, II ox5-foot window
fra me Is put In on the south side (ths
| high sde), and provided with muslin cur
tains for very cold nights. and two 3xi-
foot window-f frames. with glass sash. are
all provided for the game side The feed
should also be clean and fed in a clean
/ ~ manner. All moudy or musty grains
, and mashes should be avoided. and no
rnoistene1 food such as a mash. should
ever be left from one feeding to another.
Tn" drinking vcsseis must be kept sweet
and clean. and he filled with fresh wa
ter. Every four weeks they should be
washed out thoroughly with boiling wa
ter. to which has been added some good
disinfectant. Never permit aiing fowls
20 drink out Of the same vessel as the
others. at least. take the precaution of
putting some harmless antiseptic In the
water The birds. as well as the
house. must be kept clean by providing
them with a place to dust themselves in
The easiest way to do this Is to cover
the floor Of the entire house a foot deep
with drT earth or If this is out Of the
question. provide large box filled with
a mixture Of sifted coal ashes, sand and
pound Of insect powder A filthy yard
will always breed Infection very quickly
If there is ample room. provide as large
a yard As possible: the best way IL TO
have tW" wards for each pen. and keep
one ALWAYS planted to green crop
thus disposing of the surface drop,ings
and al the same time turning them 70
nod
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-06-24
NEW ENGLAND FARM OPPOR.
TUNTrJES.
(From the Boston Transcr

tFrom the Boston Transcript
1t cannot be repeated too often, nor
spread abroad too widely, that agricul-
tue in New England is full Of oppor-
tunity. Here is wonderful Industrial
section. with many manufacturing towns
and cities About them lies. close at
hand, much tillable land, some farnled.
some idle. At greater distances. but
nowhere at a really great distance. are
other farms and potential farms. Com
paratively few Of all these acres are
producing efficiently; comparatively few
of them are remote or inaccessible
that with suitable organization their
products cannot be transported success
fully and marketed to advantage. Yet
while New England industry Is meeting
stronger and stronger competition from
Western and Southern manufacturers,
New England Is buying its food and farm
products from these same sections. al
though II could buy more cheaply from
it's own farms II only its own farms
We're developing to meet its need. On
the seizure by New England agriculture
OF its own markets and opportunities
| and on it's realizat ton of the fact that II
holds the fortunes Of New England large
ly in its own hands. depends the future
of New England itself
At the present. the most promising
means Of overcoming such unfavorable
conditions OF production and marketing
seems TO he cooperation. Whereas in
dustral business long ago recognized the
utility and necessity Of organization and
combination, even among competitors,
agriculture has remained indvidualistic.
Farmers have stood too largely each to
himself selling. shipping. and buying as
he could or must. He has lacked the ad-
vantages of central organization that
through its officers could find the best
markets. ship in large quantities at the
most favorable terms, and In general
direct and control conditions in ways
utterly beyond the individual producer
Cooperative organization. although II
does not and cannot remove all the Diff
ficulties of agriculture. lessons these diff
| ficulties a great deal especially In mat
ters of selling and distributing.
All the directions in which cooperative
! association can make itself worth while
are probably not yet recognized. Neither
Is the simplicity Of organization that is
sufficient for some Of its purposes. Thus
when the production of horses. especial
" good draft horses, promises for years
to be steadily profitable. both because OF
the home demand and because of the
depleted stables OF Europe, association
| together Of New England farmers for
joint ownership of stations offers
practical way to meet the situation
Sires of the necessary pure blood and
high qualities cannot usually he bought
for less than $500. a price manifestly too
high for most small farmers. But ten
| farmers together, by such purchase
can provide colts of such a quality that
one of them as four-year- will sell
for at least enough TO return the original
investment and meantime by farm work
! have earned it's own keep.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-06-24

-, =,
''''"'' p',t wv" so"ie herosehe III 'ne DOT
e''' VI ~, !" "n.'h 10 orop the rose
'ee.'e' "''oi pi'hi"s 'heih OIL
ne aSparahus season ends this
month"; 80 'he ped Will need attention.
i-et '"e e'"'hs gro" ana heip them TO
ue'e'op os heeiHhs uo"h the weeds
cultivating, and adding an application of
quick acting commercial fertilizer, say
800 pounds of superDhosphate for ex-
ample. II is not too late to SOW beans
in fact, unless beans are planted In sue
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-06-24
SALARIES PAID IN SKINS.

tFrom the United Mineworkers' Journal)
1t is not a generally-known historical
fact that from IVA to lisa territory now
known as Tennessee formed a part Of
North Carolina. and that in 1855 the Ten
nesseeans, becoming dissatisfied with
their government, organized a State gov
eminent under the name OF "Frankland,"
which was maintained for some wears
The State thus organized was afterward
dishanded and territorial Tennessee was
AGAIN annexed TO North Carolina. says
recent writer on the subject
In lS3S, in a speech by Daniel Web
ster ON the currency, he gave the follow
ing as among the laws passed by the
Legislature of the State of FARMLAND -
BE il enacted by the General Assembly
of the State OF FARMLAND and II is here
by enacted by the authority of the same.
that from January !, 1880, the salaries of
this commonwealth be as follows;
His excellency, the governor. per an
mum. 100 deersllins,
His honor, the chief justice, per annum,
800 deerskins
The secretary to his excellency, the
governor, per annum, 800 raccoon skins.
The treasurer of the state, $50 raccoon
skins.
Each county clerk 500 beaver skins.
Clerk of House of Commons, 30 raccoon
skins.
Memehers of the Assembly, per diem.
three racccOon skins,
Justices fees for signing warrant.
one muskrat skin.
To the constable for serving a N.l.t....
one mink skin.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-06-24

tending summer egg production. How
ever, II the hens are given care these
drawbacks are not nearly as serious as
many people allow them to become 1t
Is another case Of a stitch in time saving
many times nine, If these pests are al
lowed to gain foothold, It will require
very hard work to eradicate them 20
they Will not affect the summer egg
Yield. Mites are more serious than lice
because they breed much faster. Mites
live on the hens only at night. going
off onto the roosts and walls OF the build
ings during the day. The lice stay on
the hens all the time. To kill mites. the
roosts. nest boxes. dropping boards. the
walls of the building and the floors must
he sprayed with powerful disinfectant
or kerosene all II oil IS used on the
nest boxes, care must he taken to allow
II to dry on before they are used or the
eggs will taste Of the oil. All drOppings.
litter dirt. on the foora In boxes and
dropping boards must he removed. The
spraying should he repeated weekly for
several weeks until not mite remains.
Lice arc found usually under the vent on
the hips and around the roots Of the tail
Of the hens. A busting with good louise
powder will remove t;cm. IF the flock is
too large to handle Ice can be kept down
below the line Of much harm by provid-
Ing a dry dust bath In this the fowls
will cleanse themselves ~ most Of the
lice
The dust bath may he made of n low
sided dry goods box filed with road dust
into which has been mixed some coal
ashes. small amount of lime, and a
faw tahlespoonfuls of powdered sulphur
Place this dust bath in dry sunny cor
ner Of the hen house
HOW TO TREAT "RROODY" HENS
A serious disadvantage to good sum
mer egg yield Is a hroody hen. Not only
Is she losing time when she gets hroody--
time that she should he producing valuable
esgs-but II the eggs carry fertile germs,
or the males have not been removed, she
Is damaging the eggs. For these reasons
the most valuable producers of eggs are
those breeds known as "non-sitters," be-
cause they show little or no disposition
to become broody. The single comb White
T>eghorn has demonstrated her superiority
as a non sitter and is now used by a
large proportion Of the leading egg pro-
ducing farms.
Where a hen shows disposition to
sit, coop must he provided and the hen
allowed 10 remain in II n day or so to
cool off the broody habit. This coop
should have Slated bottom to allow air
to pass freely through and prevent her
making comfortable nest She should
he placed in the coop the first night she
shows her broody disposition and kept
there. for a day or two. then released.
and II still broody returned to the coop.
Az all this requires time and patience. II
is far better to use the non sitter where
eggs are the object,
BY practtcing the hest methods not on
~ can the egg producer get a better
price. but he can get more eggs and at
a time when they are produced easiest
and at the least cost.