Evening star., 1915-12-05
BY RICHARD HARDING DAVIS.

social
low normal.
A year ago the gray green tlda'
wave OF the German armies, that
threatened to engulf Paris, had Just
been checked With the thunder OF
their advance Paris was still shaken.
The withdrawal of men to the front,
and of women and children 70 boi
deaux and the coast, had left the city
uninha bited. The streets We're as at-
serted as the Atlantic City Boardwalk
In January For miles one moved pc
tween closed shops. Along the Aishe
the lines had not been aug ~
bo,,rlv from the front ambulances'
oarrxirs the wounded French and
British officers, unwashed, from the
.-ohas n undiscovered bullet-scar-
red cars raced down the SSo,..s .s
honlayards In the few restaurants
open, YOU met men who thal MOI i.,idS saS
mad left the firing line, and VINO 49, aI
deieuner, and the pgrthase -, sunset
cirarettes and underclothes, by Suhss
would he back on the Job. In 'hose
davs Paris was inside the nre !'ies
War was in the air; you sinelt H. %"
it, heard it. ;s;ting
paris might remain here week anu
not know that this country Is "aennS
the greatest war in history. ne
walk the crowded streets II IS l'hposst
Me IN believe that within forlS rtliieS -
- jIJions of men are facing each
other in a death grip. Ihls IS 20. ~ :,
because a great wall OF sii5i So
heen built between Paris ana 'ne l5oL,
.nd second because the spirit OF a.
Give TOO resilient, occupied
with 100 many interests, 70 d4io" ~
one thing, even war, 10 opsess -.
people of Paris have accepted tug
as they accept the risG ,d snow
~ winter hut they are not going 10 let
II beat them. In consequences me th;r
windows are again dressed ~ -
best. the riosks announce ne tbe
ray,,as operas: in the gardens OF tHe
Iu,emhurr the beds are hrliiiaht "itii
autumn aowers. the old gentlemen ha
resumed their games oi - -
Champs Elysees swarms WIN % ,he
rtaeas and at the aperltf hour on ts
sidswalks there are no empty cHaiis
Al many of the restaurants y Is IN
nossible to obtain table.
Is No Longer Gay Paris.
II is not the Paris of the days before
the war 1t is not gay PARIS. hu' :
is a Paris going about her business q
usual" This spirit of the peoPie
awakens only the most sincere aoiiiii
tion. 1t shows great calmness'
courage and a confidence that ior ne
enemy of France must ne hisi .h
work for the wounded and ior lis
families OF those killed in action Aiu
who have been left without supPoi
continues. Only now, alter Seat
bitter experience. II Is no lonEei ~
tericaI. 1, has been systeHlatized' mace
nore efficient 1t is no longer the MoI
Of amateurs. but Of those VINO oE oAilS
practice have become experts ~
In Paris the signs OF war dIe ~
nearlv as much in evidence as the ac
tiyities OF peace. There are many sol
diers hut in Paris you always sa" SOL
diers The only difference IS that nov
they wear bandages or aavai.se ="
crutches And. as opposed TO these efl-
dences OF the great conflict goins on
only forty miles distant are the mower
markets around the Madeleine, the
crowds OF women IN front OF tne y
els furs and manteaux in the Rue ae
la Paix. ,xs< :.
II is not that France is indifferent 70
the war. but that she has proved htt
self She has faith In her afH4es, ~
her generals She can AFFORD 70 wall
She drove the enemy from PARIS. she
is teaching French in Alsace IN time.
when Joffre is ready, she J" III dflNe
the enemy across her borders ~ her
faith in Joffre she opens her shops.
markets schools. theaters. 1t Is not
caIlousness she shows but that cour-
age and confidence that are the lore-
runners Of success
But the year Of war has brought GER
tain changes The searchlights have
disappeared. Il was found that to the
enemy in the air they were less or
menace than gnid. 80 'he greas
shafts of light that with majesty used
To sweep the skies or cut a pain INTO
the clouds nave disappeared Ana near
ly all other lights nave disappeared
Those VINO drive motor cars claim the
pedestrians are careless. the pedestri-
ans protest that the drivers OF motor
cars are reckless In any case, 70
cross a street AZ night IS an adventure.
British Soldier Disappears.
Something else that has disappeared
is the British soldier. year ago he
swarmed. now he is almost entirely abb
sent Outside Of the hospital corps. a
British officer IN Paris is object of
interest. In their place are many Bel
gians: almrst too many Belgians
Their new khaki uniforms are unsoiled.
Unlike the French soldiers you see, few
are wounded The answer probably is
that they cannot return TO their own
country. and must make their home IN
that of their ally. And the front they
defend so vaIiantly is not SO extended
that there is room for all. Meanwhile.
as they walt for their turn in the
trenches. they I'll the bouleyards and
cafes
This is not equally true of the French
officers. The few you see conva-
lescents or on leave. II Is not il was
last October, when Paris was part Of
the war zone. Cntt a few days ago
until after IN the evening, when the
work of the day was supposed to have
been completed, an officer was not per
rnit1rd 70 Sill idle in a cafe. And now
when you zee one you may be sure he
is recovering from wound. or is on
the general staff. or has been released
for few hours from duty
II Is very different from a year ago,
when every officer was fresh from the
trenches-and fresh is not quite the
word, either-and he would talk freely
10 an eager. sympathetic group u the bat :
lie OF the night before Now the wall Of
-silence stretches around Paris. BY
posters Il is even enforced upon you.
Before the late minister of war gave
up his portfolio, b. piacards he warned
all when iu public places to be careful
OF wha, they said 'Taisez vous. Me
fez-ycus Les oTeilles ennem!es vous
ecouteat BE silent BE distrusiuI.
The ears Of the enemies are listening.
This warning against spies vas placed
in tramways. railroad trains, cafes a
Gartoouist refused TO take the good ad-
Gice seriously HIS picture shows one
Of the woman conductors in a street
ear sskiug :. passenger where he is go
ing The passenger points to the warn
fTg S.lrnce. lie says, some one may
be listening
Other Changes Noted.
+Th,re are other changes. a year ago
Gold was king. TO ina gine any time
or place when il is not is diffcuIt. But
tojs.- an American twenty dollar bill
gives you q higher rate OF exchange