The farmer and mechanic. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 18??-19??, 1915-08-17
PLANS CLOTHES
FOR YOUNG MEN
Usefulness viii End When No
Longer Feel Young, De-
sjgner Says
New York Times.

will cease" says A. c.. Peine of hi
cago. when ] am no longer able 10
feel young act young, and thlnk as
q young man does. For when a man
has reached a certain age limit he
cannot see things through the eyes of
youth"
As "A designer Of clothing for young
men Mr.. Peine has upset some of the
cherished traditions of the profess
sion. His workshop in its truest sense
sees very little of him. He roams
around the country at large, ming
ling with the men whose tastes he
must satisfy, whose desires he must
anticipate. These men he associates
with in their clubs. their sports, their
pleasures. and their business life. His
trip from coast to coast take in the
big universities and the small col
leges. every and any place where
young men congregate. Mr.. Peine
has an engaging personality. and 1t
is Easy to imagine that wherever he
goes he is taken as lone of the
crowd" and not al a prying outsider.
The sources Of style are many and
complex. Mr.. Peine has little use OF
styles produced through common
agreement.
at is not the idea ITSELF" he says,
.but the suggestion which that idea
makes on the receptive mind that
leads to originality in style creation.
Today. for instance, l may be walk
ing along Fifth Avenue n see there
two men. What they wear is of lit
tie consequence except to wake in my
mind certain discrepancies in their APP
pearance that might be remedied by
the substitution Of a different line.
another treatment Of their style of
dress. With the mental picture of
what would really suit these men 1
work out the whole effect. The
faultiness Of their attire lends itself
readily to the suggestion OF improve
ment. and something new is created.
Besides this critical process there are
the differences which all good dress
ers affect and which may easily be in
corpOrated into a design. The tail
Ors to the select have ideas that may
be of value. / keep in close touch
with these groups, both here and or
the other side. There may be de-
tails of dress to be adapted fro n tn,
fashions in wOmen's wear.
when I have picked up an idea
and drafted my design, the work has
not been completed until 1 nave Sc
cured the finished garment in JUS
the style / had in mind. 1t is mo-
sufficient for a designer to come
close in the actual garment to tn
mental picture he had formed o.
that article. He must get a perfec
ANouits Il " W. thio W. "a ot AAAAS
made a dozen or more garments jus
to get the one effect we desired. Th'
rest are thrown away.
In different parts of the cOuntr
different styles are required. Specia
models are produced for d~ifferen
parts OF the country. Particular at
tentiOn is paid to special requirement
in given sections. For instance. tn
narrow shoulder styles that are eager
ly taken in New York are not s
popular on the coast, wher- a bi
coat is desired. with full shoulder.
well built up. This sort Of Specialize
ton requires a careful cOmbing fO
Ideas in the various sections of tn
country. 1t wouldn't do for me t
stay in Chicago and plan what tn
men OF the whole country are t
wear. My ideas in that case woul
be limited to what I saw in Chicag'
ut is this specialization that ha
led to the amazing of the your
mems clothing business. Ten yea
ago clothes designed especially fc
young men were unheard Of. W
had youth sizes which were mac
about a half an inch mailer a
around than the 80 to SO sizes wor
by older men. but. as far as style w,
concerned, the young men were wea
ing the same designs as their elder
Today the larger retailers have SCI
arate departments and separate blu
ing organizations for handling your
mems clothing. Style is featured. "
have d sizes. shorts and stouts,
that every young man., regardless
ms physical makeup, may be attir,
in up-to-the-minute dress. 1t is re
ting to be more and more the hal
Of buyers to let the price go hang.
long as the style is something ne
and attractive. A suit made Of t
same fabric we may use in a numb
could be sold for 25 per cent. le
than our model, and yet ours be pr
ferred simply because our style a
tailoring were better. In manufa
turing our product we try to get
far away from h machine idea
possible. Where it is possible to 81
stitute hand work for machine VIC
we do SO. There is no machine c,
ting in our factory. The work