The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-23
BOIHERSON1E PROBLEM OF THE SUMNER COAT SOLVE
Radical Change in Silhouette Gives
Designers Wide Latitude
for Originality

I from the neck in tho back and on the
shoulders, its base falling consider
ably below the base OF the throat, is
also seen. This was a Paouin idea
OF last year and Is repeated by the
| same house and by others. when
cieverly handled II has both charm
and comfort for hot weather wear,
but most women prefer to have the
nape OF the neck covered by a coat
| collar. and in combination with FAR
ing high frock collars this dropping
but big coat collar usually gives a
bunchy, thick look.
A very smart coat using this collar
Is In black tafYeta and built on what
we have been wont to call Russian
tunic lines. The full body r. shlrred
in at the normal waist line by four
rows Of corded stirring. and the tre-
mendously full coat tunic reaches to
the knees.
A very wide collar falling away
from back and shoulders in the Pa
quin style is Of beautiful plaid taft
feta, whose dark blue ground is barred
on by satin stripes in black.
green. dark blue and soft yellow.
There is a wide band Of the plaid
around the bottom OF the coat and on
each OF the wide short bell sleeves.
Instead OF being shirred in all
around the waist some good models
have shrred cordings across front and
back only.
A model OF this class in black taffeta
and satin stripe has a high. close COL
lar surmounted by a ruche OF tulle
and frills OF tulle below the cuffs
The tunic falls in deep points at
each side OF the front and curves
upward in front and back. A note Of
brilliant color relieves the sombre-
ness in the rather small buttons OF
vivid coral red.
Silk golfne. velvety OF appearance
but very light In weight, makes good
looking and becoming afternoon coats
often cut on somewhat tailored lines.
and there are numerous semi-tailored
models In black, dark blue and all the
popular sand. castor and mode tones
OF bengaline. popln and faille.
The heavy crinkled crepes and pom
gees are much used too for the tailored
and semi tailored sort OF silk coat and
some OF the narrow shouldered. fiaring
skirted, loosely belted and amply
pocketed models in these silks OF
natural color are admirable for
tailored street wear when cloths are
too heavy. They are usually lined in
soft silks. often OF striped. checked.
dotted. futurist or sprigged design.
but some OF the smartest models have
Innings Of quaint black print linen.
Among the more dressy and pic
turesque silk coats. from which we've
been depressing. there are many white
models-usually Of taffeta. sometimes
OF faille or charmeuse or heavy crepe
They follow the general lines already
described and are often entirely I'M
trimmed. save for ruches OF the silk, !
self-cording. scalloping. pinkng. &c. |
Over light summer frocks these full !
fiaring yet simple coats will he charm
ing and rather more adaptable than
the similar models in light colored
taffeta, which are. however, even more
tempting In themselves. There are
many pinks among the latter. pinks Of
all tones from flesh and palest rose
petal to deep brilliant cerise and peach |
and coral and rose, and all are lovely.
a watermelon pink changeable taf- !
feta is we'll liked for such models and
Is finished by fringed or scalloped
ruches which give glimpses in their
full folds Of the brilliant under side of
the silk.
One delightful pink taffeta model Is |!
illustrated here. II was OF an ex-
quisite light rose shade and quite I'M
trimmed, unless one can call few
silk covered buttons trimming. The |
fronts fell straight. the back fared /
gradually, but on the hips the ma
terial was closely shirred to give ex- !
ceedingly full sides to the coat skirt. !
The collar was a very high, close one. |
which crushed down with wearing and !
was held In shape by a buttoned strap |
running up the collar front.