New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-08-05

those one is used to in Paris. re-
member one Mardi Gras in the Champs
Elysees, the air thick with confettl anu
the ground covered with bright niue
paper disks like sand on the seasnore'
the shouts of laughter as men, women
and children, old and young, peitea
each other and banded Jokes. bu.
this crowd was a different matter ~
had serious business on hand. IL was
there TO testify to the national spirit
and the national unity.
Aeropanes Far Overhead.
Every cross street added its thou
sands. every footpath its hundreds to
the silent, steadily marching throng.
One could easily imagine the sans Gu
lottes gathering for the taking OF an
other Bastile. They only paused 10
gaze skyward at the war aeroplanes
circling far overhead for their protec-
ton. and they took their places in quiet
orderly precision in the densely packed
masses that lined both SIDES OF the
route from the Arc de Triomphe to the
Invalides.
As the little PROCESSION passed
through the silent ranks of this strange
Paris crowd, the tricolor-draped conn
on the caisson and the President OF the
republic bareheaded and on foot as the
chief mourner, the cry "chapeaux'
went ahead, and every hat came OIL
until the last man had gone by. And
then they waited in silence again until
the ceremony at the Inyalldes was nm
ished and the President drove back,
this time in his state carriage, to the
Flvsee Palace. The cheers broke out
then, and President Poincare, with
, General Galieni by his side, rode
through a madly shouting multitude.
The crowds are sobered and steadied.
There are too many women IN Dlack,
too many men on crutches, too many
with an eye gone, too many bandages,
too many uniforms for the old life TO
20 on. Truly, Paris is city that has
seen the enemy at the gates and too
brief time ago to forget 1t yet.
Boulevard Scenes Lacking.
As one sits on the terrasse Of the
Cafe de la Paix one misses many IA
miliar features. The old man who sold
maps of Paris is no longer worrying
you with his wares, nor is the other
old fellow who offered picture post
cards. nor the chap with the latest
popular songs. nor the i'm tation artist
legged pictures that he will si"n before
your ewes. and. sacre nom dun CHEN,
Of all the half hundred guides" who
formerly insulted every stranger who
crossed the Place de POpera only one
is left. War is not all horror.
But there is something else missing.
What has become of that painted and
powdered. lace -gowned and high-heeled
procession with penciled eyebrows and
carmined lips that used TO walk the
beat from Rue Scribe to the Rue Auber
hour after hour, until some young and
foolish American-or. better still. some
cid ard silly dotard- ended the days
agony? | see two OF the old guard and
half a dozen recruits. but the brigade
seems to have been disbanded And
any night one can walk from the Place
de POpera to the Madeleine without
being strangled with feather boa
But one must not try to walk too
late. for at 10 o'clock at night Paris is
dark. London thinks that her streets
are unlighted at night, but compared
with Paris they are brilliant. This
darkness of Paris goes back to the
Middle Ages. 1t means block after
block of the grand boulevards with
cut a lamp. and side streets along
NhiNh ollC must 6NIlOHi ltGl one > WY,
There are no cab ranks waiting here
the night through. so that one never
has to walk more than ten minutes be-
fore finding a taxi. There is no Lei
cester Square, Coventry Street and
Piccadilly Circus through whose massed
battalions of pelicans and snipers one
must fight ones way at midnight In
Paris every blind is drawn by o'clock,
or the sergeant OF police will know
the reason why, and there is no stray
CLEAN OF light TO cheer. There is no
music in the restaurants BY 10 o'clock
the nightbrds have sought their roosts
and the late wayfarer prowls a lonely
path. hoping vainly to meet a voiture
drawn by a knee-sprung bless6 to help
him on his way.
1t is so with many of the old fam.!-
lar features of Paris. Ny window
looks down over the Trocadero and
across the Seine to the Tour Eiffel the
Champ de Mars, the Ecole Miitaire,
the Invalides. Notre Dame and all the
great Rive Gauche, while away to the
left rises Sacre Cpur on the Butte
Montmartre. Looking down so, il is
the same Paris, but know that when
go down into the streets | will find
different city, a city sobered and in
tensifed, a people at war, united n
thought and heart for the sacred cause
of la patrie.