Evening star., 1915-04-04

neck The average American, like the
| Anglo-Saxon, has a full neck and these
| runies and bows and pleatings are not
for her When she can wear them, by
reason OF thin neck. she looks we'll
in the picture. but she need not de-
spafr when she nndS them unbecorninE.
They are not essential to fashion.
Popular prejudice has retained the
open neck for the day. although an eye
for beauty holds to the usage Of some.
thing soft and white above tho collar
on rough coat Tho way to get this
with a low blouse Is to baste in the COL
lar OF the coat itself line of white in
whatever shape and material one fan
cies.
Women who have accumulated flesh,
even slightly, on the line OF the shoul-
ders or at the back of the neck should
use exceeding care in adopting any
neckwear that accentuates it. They
must be careful of turnover collars in
every way, for a fraction OF an inch in
fabric added to that flesh gives one
| round shouldered appearance.
The popularity of the one-piece frock
has to certain extent mitigated the
problem of the separate blouse; We,
every woman has one suit for spring
and summer and she also has separate
sport skirts of corduroy. linen and
pique, which demand certain kind OF
simple blouse. All kinds OF white ma
| terial that wash are used for waists,
but quantities of embroidery and lace
are still omitted. The smart ornamen-
tation is colored linen in the red and
blue Of the French flag used as rolf
over collar and cuffs
Striped muslinS are also used as coil
i lar and cuffs and breast pockets also
for whole waists. In truth, the striped
blouse In silk and lawn is the fash
| ION most featured at the moment IL
can be worn with all white suits but
| 1t looks especially well with the omni-
| present ubiquitous suit of thin blue
serge.
There are also colored linen blouses
| IN bright blue. pinks and apple green
The flesh pink crepe de chine blouse
| with roll-over collar and elf-covered
| buttons fastened through silk loops is
| retained for the spring. There Is no
change in the shape of these waists
| They have regulation armholes. long
small sleeves, turnover cuffs and which
ever type of collar one prefers. An in
| teresting feature is the return of the
| pleated ruftle in front.
There are SO many tricks in the trade
| OF clothes that one sees and tries to re-
member to pass one. Sometimes they
| interest women more than the impor-
| tant features. There is that new meth
Cd or lacing up a frock in the middle
| OF the back. 1t is done by a velvet cord
through large round buttonholes that
are heavily overcast. At the end Of the
cord are short spikes of cut Jet.
| The idea was brought out in black
| taffeta afternoon gown, but ii has been
| copied in all kinds of materials. 1t is
especially effective on the bodice that
has that new turtle-tail in the back
that goes outside the skirt and drops
down for a space of five inches. It is q
| good feature for linen frocks. and one
such gown in oyster white is laced with
blue velvet ribbon through blue button
holes, finished with small silver spikes.
Another new trick in fashions In fas-
| tening a gown is the use of immense
hooks and eyes covered with a material
in the same color as the frock. or to
contrast with It. These are used in
front or back. preferably in front.
On gown of black silk they are COW
cred with white satin. and there are
white satin collar and cuffs to carry
out the color scheme. The smart wom-
an who wore this frock completed the
idea by an oblong turban of white
satin with a jet ornament and white
uppers to her black slippers.