davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1915-05-02

her closet From some of them she has
extracted the silk Innings for petticoats.
or bit of lace to make a collar. but
none was suited to her style of living.
There was no charity in giving her
the clothes, yet her rich cousin thought
differently.
AS there are few women who can
find the right person to whom they can
give clothes. If that person is going to
sell them for SIS. it is far better to
secure the ca sh and give 1t away. Many
women do this. Some of the best
dressed women are known to sell their
clothes for charitable purposes; this is
good business and good charity. 1t
meets the demands/all the way around
the circle.
In going over the seasons wardrobe
it is best to stake ones chances on the
wide skirt staying with us until July
or August There are dressmakers who
are prophets, and who say that we
shall probably wear the full skirts for
two or three years at least. There are
others who say it will be out of fash
ion by midsummer. The only way to
he even partly safe is to compromise
on moderate width with leaning to-
ward fullness.
If your last summer skirts had long
tunics the remedy is easy. That tru-
ism has been repeated over and again
for two months. The added fact that
the new skirts. both pleated and circu-
lar. have wide bands of different fab
ric and sometimes of different color
Evening star., 1915-05-02
SEWING ON THIN MATERlALS

machine, place the edge to be gathered
under the foot and sew it, then draw
the upper thread until the ruffie has
the desired fullness. This is a good
way when one wants ruffies of varied
fullnesses. A long piece of ruffiing may
be gathered at one time and then used
as needed.
To properly shirr a wide skirt by
hand, quarter the top and mark each
quarter with bright thread, then shirr
each section separately. If you use
three or four rows of shirring, use as
many needles for the purpose. Start
the first row, then the second and re-
naming ones. Run a few inches on
the first row, follow it up with Sec
ond, etc Draw up the threads and
distribute the gathers by stroking
them evenly into place with a needle
Remember, in distributing these small
gathers, not to have each row the same
length An increase of one-half inch
in each lower row is necessary to give
the natural curve over the hips. II a
heavy shirring is desired, make a short
stitch and one long one. Continue so
on each row. Fine stitching makes a
more compact shirrlng.
Fine laces should be carefully placed
on a frock, and all superHuous points
and the like are slipped under slashes
and stitched on the wrong side. Less
valuable but expensive laces of other
kinds and very gorgeous trimmings of
odd shape and pattern are used in the
same way This keeps the pieces whole.
and they may be used repeatedly
Evening star., 1915-05-02

You may employ separate fabric as a
hem, but you mustn't use 1t for a hip
yoke.
There has come about an odd COM
hination of fabrics in the last month
which allows pleated skirt to be at
tached to a straight. lonE-waisted,
beltless blouse of another fabric This
idea is very helpful to the woman who
is altering clothes.
Take, for instance. white serge
gown copied from late Callot model
in which the long. straight. girlish
blouse was of white satin attached un-
der a line of embroidered scallop be-
low the waist to a knife pIeated skirt
white satin sleeves were laced at the
back from wrist half way to elbow
with blue and red silk cords through
white embroidered eyelets, and there
was n turnover collar of white embroi-
dercd linen.
AS strong the belt and normal
waist line seemed to be among the ma
jority of gowns. there is also a very
fashionable frock that calls for
straight line from shoulder to hem I.
ii slim until il reaches the hips where
the side pleating begins to spring out
and give il A flare. These frocks have
low hip pieces formed of embroidery or
machine cording to break the long lines
down the body. They are especially ef-
fective in white linen trimmed with
pale yellow and in pongee and shan
tung.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Simple Graduation Dresses.

wv HITE is always in better taste for
wv graduation dress than are coll
orS of any shade. 1t is not we'll to
even wear a color under white. There
is delicate girlish charm in all-white
which makes it more fitting than col
ors. Sheer, white, washable fabrics
are more dainty and appropriate for
graduation dress than silk, satin or
net. Often the question of the ma
terial to be worn is decided by vote.
as the general effect is much better
when the entire class is gowned in the
same material, even though the de-
signs and trimmings may vary. A
batiste dress is lovely. 1t would be
simple and charming trimmed with a
pretty design worked with coarse linen
floss. This makes a very pretty trim
ming. and the work goes more quickly
than the solid embroidery. An easy
way to get a good-fitting girdle ID to
make foundation of silk betting. to
which bones may he attached in the
height desired at front, sides and back.
Sew the material to this. lacking in
yisibly. Any form of sash end or bow
trimming may be used.
Evening star., 1915-05-02

thoughts, but the fact remains thar the
hand she finally gives you is limp and
llfeless. Whatever magnetism it NAV
have contained is frittered away before
1t reaches you
Whether person realizes it or not.
there is lot of meaning in a hand
snake You can gauge mans char
acter-or a woman's, either-more ac-
curately in single, brief meeting of
the hands than in month of ordinary
observation of features and actions 1t
is possible to school the features into
lmmobility. to guard even the ewes
windows of the SOUL though they are
so that they will betray nothing of
the thoughts that lie behind them But
the contact of the hand reveals every
thing. 1t is the instantaneous COM
mingling of electric currents which
puts you ION the wire" In a flash of
intuition you see the real man or wom-
an with whom you are dealing
There are handshakes and hand
shakes There is the quick, nervous
handshake, which means that you had
better say quickly what you must say
at all-and the less of it the better.
There is the effusive handshake, which
indicates that there is an ak to he
serve as grindstones There is the in
different handshake, which we all
know, the insinuating handshake.
which we should all be weary of the
cdresslns handshake, which is some
times agreeable and sometimes the re-
verse, and the limp handshake, the
giver of which will seldom prove a
friend in adversely. sometimes the limp
handshake only indicates timidity.
There is the timid handshake, which
is generally that of the innocent and
ronfding And there is the firm, kind
ly and magnetic handshake. which
heartens You up when you are down
cast and sends you on your way wit h
your head up and warm glow in your
heart. And the man or woman with a
handshake like this is the man or
woman that will make true friend.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
THE ART OF Shaking HANDS

N7OW that kissing has gone out of
INV fashion. perhaps women Will in
time acquire the gentle art Of
shaking hands. From time immemorial
they have punctiliously kissed one an
other. friends and enemies allke-While
philosophers have scoffed and men gen
orally have looked on in mute amaze
ment.-and all without thought of
anything more than the merest social
courtesy Doubtless most women are
possessed with the vague idea that a
handshake means rather less.
However this may he, the woman who
can bestow a hearty. cordial hand
shake is almost as much of rarity as
the proverbaI white crow. When You
do hv chance encounter her you will
find about her a breeZiness, a straight
from the -shoulderness that plainly in
dicates that she has lived much among
men-and good. honest. square dealing
men at that. Also, should you be for
tunate enough to gain her confidence.
her criticisms frank but just. her
friendships sincere and her heart gen
erous.
some WOme n-SOme men. too. TOR the
matter of that-are too narrow, too
trivial. TO be capable OF the warm.
sympathetic clasp of the hand that is
the involuntary expression of good fell
lowship and kindly feeling. They may
be glad enough to see YOU. but even
while they are extending their fingers
for the customary salute their eyes are
furtively scanning your features and
your attire. and they forget everything
cI IN he discovery that hat iS
unbecoming or that your gown is one
Of last seasons made over.
A woman of this type is proba bly,
quite unconscious of the trend of her
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Hats for Little Girls.

IN RESS hats of fancy and BRAIDED
W. nets, soft braids. lace or leghorn'
have trimmings of velvet ribbon and
tiny flower buds in wreaths. sarlands
or knots.
little bonnet OF leghorn has tiny
flower festoons peeping through the
straw A little French cap of en-
broidered batiste and lace is finished
by the daintiest bit of applique Iower
trimming The chin bow and stream
ers fasten with a snap fastener. A
dainty model of faintest pink satin
and lace frills has a white ostrich
wreath and one pink azalea. For a
little brunette girl there is a Tuscan
straw, with orange ribbon and ap-
pliqued orange flowers. Very fetch
ing is a little hat of fine white hair
braid and pink chiffon with little pink
flower rings and bow of twisted pink
satin.
Evening star., 1915-05-02

stock. She might have to carry twenty
or thirty gowns over beca use she could
not find purchaser for them.
She had no difficulty in getting clothes
at this price. and the list of her clients
reads like the social register There
is not a fashionable debutante. bride or
smart matron that she docs not know
sufficiently to give her an opening to
bid for her clothes. and she has often
had the chance to buy for 500 the
whole OUTFIT of rich woman who is
going into mourning.
1t would seem so much kinder to give
a gown to some one who needed it THAI
to sell it for IS. especially when one
does not need the money. The answer
to this statement is that it is difficult
for rich women to give their clothes
away where they will really help
Women who are not in society cannot
wear these clothes, as they have no
social opportunities for them. and the
women who have the opportunity dc
not care to be seen in the gowns that
have been exhausted by their friends.
or put the amount of money into it
that it needs for alterations.
There is much good reasoning about
this statement young woman o.
high birth and admirable social al
liances who is poor enough to work for
her yearly income was given two dozen
gowns and hats by a rich cousin, and
every one of the garments is still IN
Evening star., 1915-05-02
77 HEN facing a circular skirt of
NAV transparent material 1t is much

007 HEN facing a circular skirt of
NAV transparent material 1t is much
w simpler to lay the material you
are using as a facing over the hem OF
the skirt and shape accordingly, than it
is to use a straight band which must
be plated at the top. 1t is always bet
ter, however. to cut skirts and tunics
made of sheer materials sufficiently
long, SO as to turn a hem.
When sewing taffeta. use a thin. fine
needle. The blunt end of needle long
used is liable to pucker the goods and
the stitches will not be even. A heavier
needle may be used in sewing china
silk.
To tuck chiffon and other sheer ma
terials, one must first baste every tuck,
using dressmakers' pins, which are
finer and sharper than the ordinary
pin Place the chiffon on the lapboard
hold it to the board with pins, lay the
tuck with a measure and then pin and
baste ii in place. Lay all tucks, press
the material. and stitch.
An easy way of making hand tucks
in lingerie is to crease the first tuck as
usual for machine tucking and adjust
the tucker, but do not thread the ma
chine. Then run through the tucker
The needle will leave distinct line
along which to run your hand sewing
The marker also leaves line for the
next tuck 1t is best to sew each tuck
as il comes from the tucker. since han
ding obliterates the marks. This
method insures absolute accuracy, with
the daintiness of the hand sewing, and
can be done in less than half the usual
time.
Evening star., 1915-05-02

season. She gives $40 for good coat
suit. and sometimes SIS for a three
piece suit. When asked what her profit
on such purchases, she said that
she could rarely sell gown for more
than SIS, and that her trade was very
brisk Al this price.
She did not think that 81 profit on
an IS investment was unusually good
because her expenses were heavy: she
had to keep open shop in the fash
iona BILE district, to offset the capital
she was constantly putting in her
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Graduation Fans.

EANCY fans are in wonderful assort-
ments this season In white and
decorated designs. The handles are of
imitation ivory, in white, and colors
and some with elaborate figure decora
ton The coverings are of various ma
terials, some in Dresden silk and
others of materials similar to washabl
and silk fabrics.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
English Jumbles.

These are similar to rich cookies, but
are cut in rings Or fancy shapes. They
are always acceptable at tea or lunch
con, and are delicious for picnics when
packed so that they do not break
Cream together one cup of butter and
two of sugar Add five well beaten
eggs, one cup of thick, sour cream,
into which teaspoonful of soda has
been beaten; teaSpoonful of orange
or lemon extract. and flour to make a
soft dough which can be easily rolled
out. Flour the molding board well.
turn out on it a tablespoonful of
dough at a time. dredge lightly with
flour, and roll thin with n Toured roll
ing pin. Dip fancy cutter into flour
and cut the dough into cakes. Place
in a buttered dripping pan and ba ke
until nicely Drowned. These may be
varied by sprinkling them with sugar
just before baking. or in combining
two sets of dough SO as to make fancy
or marble" jumbles.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD-
Evening star., 1915-05-02

commercialists for any kind of gar
ment.
One of the best known women in New
York engaged in this work thinks that
So is a fair price for her to pay for an
evening gown that has been worn only
three times and belongs to the season.
She often gives only IS for gown that
cost $500, if it belongs to the preceding
Evening star., 1915-05-02

Simple and effective is a morning
dress of cingham made with full skirt,
with a bias band around the bottom.
and the waist. with three box pleats
starting from deep yoke.
Evening star., 1915-05-02

When planning the summer ward
robe why not keep in mind the summer
vacation and where you are going to
spend it? If you are going TO the shore
add some fluffy dresses for afternoon
and evening wear.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Drop Gingerbread.

Beat to cream one-half cup of
brown sugar and one-half cup of but
ter or lard that has been softened. Add
two well beaten eggs. one cup of mo-
lasses, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon.
a tablespoonful of ginger. half a cup
of sour milk with "A teaspoonful of soda
beaten in, and lastly three cups of
flour. Cover the bottom of d dripping
pan with buttered paper. drop the
dough on in spoonfuls, giving the ca X es
ample room to rise, and bake flch
brown in a moderate oven.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
SUNDAY MENU.

BREAKFAST.
Oranges.
Cereal.
Fresh Macke-el, Creamed Potatoes.
Water Cress.
Popovers.
Coffee
DINNER.
I.entil Soup.
c,disbe. Pickled Tomatoes.
Reef Stew. Tomato Sauce.
Rired Potatoes.
Escallcped Tomatoes.
Spinach.
Fig Pudding.
Coffee.
SUFFER-
English Galatine.
Saratoga Chips.
Lettuce Sandwiches.
Baked Custard.
Gingerbread.
Tea.
Evening star., 1915-05-02

Some women. when gathering a ruff
fe, make a long, loose stitch on the
Evening star., 1915-05-02
English Gelantine.

ALANTINE is a favorite English dish
VI for luncheon or buffet suppers 10
one-half pound of finely minced beef or
veal allow the same quantity of lean ham
or bacon, one-quarter pound of bread
crumbs. a teaspoonful of salt and a half
teaspoonful each of pepper and grated
nutmeg Mix all together with the yolk
and white of one egg wellbeaten, and
form into a smooth. sausaselike roll,
bind in a pudding cloth and simmer very
slowly for two hours in boiling water.
When cold take the roll from its cover.
glaze and cut in thin slices.
Tomato Sauce.
Cook a level tablespoonful Of chopped
onion in two tablespoonfuls Of butter,
thicken with a level tablespoonful of flour.
add one large cup of strained tomatoes
and cook until smooth Put on the back
of the stove and let heat.
Beefsteak Left-Overs.
Beefsteak left-overs should never be
thrown away. as it can be utilized IN a
variety of ways. If thick and lean II
makes a nice sandwich or helps out the
pla tier of cold meat for tea or luncheon,
by slicing with very sharp knife INTO
the thinnest of slices like roast beef.
If Won prefer it as hot dish try this
method of preparing it: Mince fine, and
for each cup of meat add tablespoonful vi
of chopped ham and half as much bread
crumbs as you have meat Moisten the
crumbs with little hot milk and add to
the meat. Season highly with salt. pep
per and chopped parsley, or substitute
little sage or onion juice for the parsley.
Beat one egg light and add to the other
ingredients Take a piece of fresh brown
paper and butter well, or grease with olive
oil.
Place the meat mixture in the middle OF
the uaper and shape il into brick
shaped loaf. Fold the paper about the
meat and over the ends as when doing
IN a parcel, turning the ends under the
loaf 50 that it will not require tying.
Place the parcel in baking pan and put
il in hot oven. Bake for twenty-five
minutes Then carefully remove the pa
per from the meat and place the Drowned
loaf upon a heated platter Pour tomato
sauce bout it or serve with horscradish
sauce.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Possibilities of a Shank of Beef.

While prices yary according to locality.
an average size shank costs about 40
or 30 cents. and contains, besides the
marrow bone, about five pounds OF Soid
meat. assured after cooking, and pint
of fat, after trying out, that can be used
for shortening and cooking. Having pur-
chased a good sized shank. cut out all the
best of the lean meat, taking care to re-
move the stringy pieces. and dig the
marrow from the bones. Chop meat and
marrow and you will have quantity OF
delicious steak. tender and well formed.
Season slightly with salt and pepper,
make into pats and put into cool place
until needed for cooking. This gives
enough for three or four meals according
to the size Of the family. At this season
it will keep for some time. Boil the rest
Of the shank and when tender take the
meat from the bones. utilizing II when
well seasoned in a meat pie or loaf. GRO
quettes or a delicious little stew, warming
up some of the slices in the stock, which
is also utilized in soups and gravles.
Beef Croquettes.
Take a pint of the soup meat and
mince fine, adding a tiny bit of onion
to season. Add salt and pepper, a little
celery. cloves or savory to flavor: then
add a quarter cup of good stock and
mix well. Add the white Of a small egg
or a portion of the white of one large
egg and mix again, then take the meat
from the stove and set in a cool place
to get cold. Make into croquettes, roll
in the beaten egg yolk. then in sifted
bread crumbs and fry a rich brown IN
hot fat. When ready to serve, stick a
tiny sprig of parsley i'll the pointed
end of each croquette.
Beef Stew With Tomato Sauce.
Cut off some slices from the boiled
shank Of beef, put into the frying pan
two tablespoonfuls of the dried-out fat,
and when hot put in couple of slices
each of onion and carrot and let them
brown. Stir in one cup of canned to-
matoes and a half cup of the beef stock
or gravy, also a bay leaf. bit of sum
mer savory or any other seasoning, as
preferred. Simmer half an hour. At the
end of this time. if the stock has been
used, thicken with teaspoonful of flour
stirred smooth in a little cold water.
Add the cold, sliced meat. simmer hve
minutes to heat through, add more salt
and pepper, if necessary, then serve.
A Butter Substitute.
For seasoning vegetables and sauces
that are TO be served hot, saving can
Evening star., 1915-05-02

These are the days which the poets
Iaud and the people neet.with reslgna
Iion. but not always enthusiasm.
Housecleaning. moving to the country,
making clothes for the hot weather,
de oat ting on the vacation that must be
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Beef Stew With Tomato Sauce.
A Butter Substitute.

For seasoning vegetables and sauces
that are TO be served hot, a saving can
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Auburn Molasses Cookies.

To one cup of lard and butter mixed
and melted allow two cups of molasses,
two spoonfuIs of soda dissolved
first in two tablespoonfuls of boiling
water; then, beaten INTO the molasses
until IT foams, two eggs. a pinch of
salt, a tablespoonful of ginger and a
teaspoonful of cinnamon. Add flour to
mix very soft, and let the dough stand
for an hour before rolling out. Cut into
cookies of an inch thick and bake in a
rather hot oven until a rich brown.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
RECIPES FOR SPRING MEALS

he effected by, using eqHal Iudlttti'9
of butter and flank fat. Melt these sep
arately and combine while hot Cool
before using. When used with not
dishes this can scarcely be detected
from butter, but the dish in which IT
enters needs to be served hot
Bread-Saving Suggestions.
Where one has a careless maid. apt
to slice more bread than can possibly
be eaten at a meal. it is an excellent
plan to have the loaf on the table. Very
pretty circular bread boards, plain or
lettered about the rim, with some
apropos quotations, can he purchased
al reasonab BILE rates, and form a pretty
addition to the family table. With A
good. sharp bread knife the task of
serving as loaf giver is pleasant one.
Should the loaf grow dry before it is
finished. try making boxes" for cream
ed oysters, sweetbreads, hard boiled
eggs, or anything else that is used with
a cream dressing.
Bread Boxes.
Cut the bread into slices about an
inch and half or two inches thick,
and divide these slices into as many
cubes as they will make. With a sharp
knife cut out the crumbs in the center.
leaving box-shaped cavity. Butter
the bread boxes and set in the oven to
crisp and brown lightly. Just before
serving time, fill with leftover fish
faxed fine, mince of chicken, deviled
eggs, chopped ham, or a mixture of
veal and ham, pour a thick cream
dressing over box and contents and
serve hot.
Fried Bread Crumbs.
Fried bread crumbs make an attrac.
tive garnish for fried halibut or COD
or a roast of veal Dry thoroughly in
a cool oven. Melt a tablespoonful OF
butter in the frying pan, and when
smoking hot put in half cup of coarse
crumbs. Shake the pan and stir the
crumbs until a golden brown. then lay
on butchers paper to absorb any grease
that may be left
Fig Pudding.
This. also, has bread crumbs as i
foundation. Mix lightly together one
half pound of grated bread crumbs
one-half pound of figs chopped fine. six
ounces of sugar, six ounces of suet
chopped fine; three eggs. half a tea
and milk to make as soft bread
dough. The figs will chop without stick
ing if little hot water is poured over
them Pour on buttered mold, steam
three and half hours. and serve with
whipped cream, foamy, or wine sauce.
OatcakeS.
In old-fa shioned English households
oatcakes are nearly always kept on
hand. While they are more sppro-
priately eaten after lunch with cheese,
they come in well at any time. To
make them. says an English bonneville,
take piece of dough as large as
your fist Make an equally large ball
of oatmeal from your breakfast por-
ridge, into which you rub lard or drip
ping and salt to make the same con
sistency as bread dough Then work
the two balls together until thoroughly
mixed roll out thin, cut into circles
with a tin or wineglass. and bake