Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-19

who VIII pay good prices, but who re-
fuse the exploited fashions of the shops.
Every great dressmaker OF Paris has
suffered from an excess of favoritism
here. As soon az the wholesalers or
those who cater to the trade of the
one house the country is flooded with
them, the fashion is soon done for
and the dressmakers lose trade.
Well, whatever the result, here is
leading features of the season. The
former Is easier to wear than the lat
ter. but they go admirably together
The redingote is able to stand a lavish
amount Of fur. and 1t looks as though
women will shortly resemble the men
OF Peary's arctic expedition. Even the
chfns are to be smothered in peltry.
Inc simpler redingote, however will
be more dignhed. The best models
are IN dark blue. Of course, for there
ID no genuine diversion from this color
Tor street clothes, and there is not an
inch Of trimming on it except a pos
ttllion collar of satin or velvet It has
cord OF silk that outlines a long
slides OF the cloth placed in a slant
ing line around the figure. The sleeves
are long. plain and finished with a
postillton cuff.
iHo tHree-qudrter sleeve mas not been
In fashion for three seasons. although
the shops have constantly offered il
to US In wash blouses. but IT is utterly
left out of the reckoning this autumn
Coat sleeves. no matter whether the
jacket Is long or short, are small and
finished at the wrist with a variety of
cuffs. the best being the triple turnover
with a cord or braid finish.
Sleeves in blouses and one-piece
frocks are often modelled after the leg
O. mutton pattern. The shoulder line
is necessarily lowered either by the
way 1t is cut or by fitted cap. To
this. the sleeve is gathered in su:h a
way that it bulges at the elbow. TnJs
is always an ugly line II it is left to
fall over the wrist or even the forearm,
but In the new sleeve there is a long
fitted wrist piece which extends high
at the back and marshals the fullness
into place.
Evening frocks are without sleeves,
only a piece of tulle showing. Callot
makes her evening gowns with mar.
row drapery. no fullness below the
at the hips. and finishes the skirt
With a train. pointed and untrimmed
The tendency to bring in a higher
decolletege and make the upper part OF
the bodice Of Opaque material, to avoid
prevailed for years, has fallen to
naught. for the new frocks are built
up OF tulle and beads and crystals from
the waist as before. There is only a
wisp OF tulle on the shoulder. although
on some Of the Callot frocks there is
still that cape-like ripple of lace from
the back Of the shoulders to the hem Of
the skirt.
All the flower shades are used for
the evening: on the street one will see
various shades of dark red
~
Burgundy. that deep plum color of thu
revolution; Bordeaux and claret are
some of the new tones for outdoor
wear: the brilliant Garibaldi red will
be chosen for house frocks. for hat
trimmings, for belts on blue suits and
in evening wraps. France has gone
quite wild over red. and the dyers have
done their best to give us artistic tones
in it. The fashion even spreads to all
the deep pink shades; coral, geranium.
rose and peach are used.
Vatican purple has been returned to
evening gowns as well as to various
kinds of garments, especially as a lin
ing to coats. rs overdrapery to green
or blue chiffon or satin evening frock,
and for that new kind of satin slip that
is like woi kman's blouse, minus the
shocking. open at the neck, with high
collar added from the back, and q
loose belt of the satin. This is consid-
cred smarter than the blouse that is
tucked under the belt. 1t provides that
long line which the cuirass frocks
show. 1t Is really an ornate jerkin,
the kind worn by medieval soldiers who
could not afford a coat-of-maiL
1t matters little what kind Of blouse
one wears under the coat, for not an
inch of it shows until the coat is re-
Except in the occasional jacket
with the lncroyable revers, the coat
is fastened up to the chin, is single
wrist. There is no exploiting of
blouses to match the suit. Outside of
the colored satin jerkin, which does
not fit the figure, the white wash
guiltless of trimming, made of
heavy silk or linen, will be the accom-
panying garment to the cloth street
suit.
The one-piece frock serves all other
occasions, and the long coats to wear
over it are SO numerous that they, like
fur, require a chapter and not para
graph.
Worth instituted the reign of the
princess frock and, although his mod
els in it are exceptionally ugly. think,
yet the fashion is successful, and the
only hope is that the women with un.