The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-14

III tiV ou S'i''' II
son Square show. but In spite OF
motor mania society with a large 81
still takes Il mighty interest In thcI
horse and goes to see it.
Perhaps hat is the keynote OF
change in Horse show status. smart
folk 20 to see the horses now. In
the old days they went very largely
Tor the purpose OF seeing each other
and being seen by the multitude.
Driving has lost ground on socictys
list Of diversions. but riding, II par
ticularly hunting. are more than ever
a part Of the fashionable gospel. ana
SO the woman of fashion still assumes
an interest In horsefesh, whether she
feels 1t or not. Perhaps she lays more
stress upon that interest nowadays,
In connection with such country rem
devious as Piping Rock; but even IN
town she puts on a smart irock ana
goes to see the horses. and where she
goes the crowd, like Mary's lamb. II
sure to 90.
The modes ot this year would have
tent themselves admirably to a horse
show season, rivalling the most brilliant
one Of blessed memory. Such NelNcts
and furs for the afternoon crowd,
such elegance and sparkle II dalntl-
ness for the boxes of the evening, such
tim and piuuant sport!ness for the
tailored costume OF the woman who
goes 70 morning sessions and visits
the stalls or crowds close IL the
ring or in a box talks knowingly about
the gcegecs and deliberately ignores
- A-.-t- II l. . ,N-, yfIAfn
It is in the tailored and scmi-taIlored
models tina; SOM OF the designers
mos, distinguished victories have been
won this year. There is much mo-
notonv in the general run Of street at
tire. The favori;c details of fashion
are repeated mistakenly and copied
In innumcrable cheap forms. Already
one grows wofully tired of cheap
fur and Russian coats and chin or
muller collars. though at their best
all Of these things are enormously
effective. But here and there "A street
costume of severity. or AZ least of
comparative severity. strikes an ar
resting note. gives the impression Of
extreme modishueSs without great
pretcncc.
sometimes Tue Slllsll AlAtN- = sl'AN
a matter Of cut. III suprcm,ly clever
tailoring. and this style Of costume is
perhaps the rar,L. among fashion sue
Cesses. So few designers have the
courage TO attecs.. "a fuSing Of SIM
pllcity and Originality and 50 few OF
those who do make the attempt sue
coed IN It.
This past week has demonstrated
that fact. but. reviewing h mod.sh
and would-bc moiish clothes seen here,
there and everywhere, ! HAD a few
trig tailored costumes lingering IN my
memory.
one of green chamois cloth was act
ually severe. The woman who wore
II was Of the tailored type, beautifully
sroomed from tip to toe. simple. small
hat with "A velvet drapcry. whose
simplicity was an audacious thing and
carried the narrow hat Silhouette 70
soaring height in the back; high boots
demurely black. hut beautiful in finish
ard fitting like Il glove, heavily
stitched immaculate gloves of fawr
color, a round muif. unnceded save foi
scenic effect. The suit itself had az
untrimmed skirt. laid on the sides II
soft. urstitch"d and impressed plaitS
and cut 10 have ample flare rs we.
AZ ~fulncss. though il was 10: DIS
tended nor shortened to the point ot
exaggcration.
Tho coat was rather short. ca
away n little in front to dip downwar,
toward the back and fitted In quite
snugly ut the vast line. The clever
ness with which this fitted wa!s'
curve and flarIng fun coat skirt wa:
achieved through small plalts or dot
taken in the side fronts aad s.opini
backward and downward was ap
parent to II one who appreciate:
good tailoring, and the detail uf thu
front opening. the simple but smar
fur collar, the pockets, were all cN
Ccllcnt. Nothing conspicuous, moth
ing bizarre or extreme, yet the wcarer
with her smooth coiifurc. her per
fectiy adjusted veil and her hou
tonnicre Of yellow and wallhower re,
pompon chrysanthomums. stands on
from among a host "f more fussii,
dressed as the very essence o
modishness.
Some very che tailored effects ar,
secured in cape costumes. though tn
best Of these moiclS have been copie,
so often and with such undesirable
modification that they have alread,
lost their appeal to the fastidiou'
Jcnny's Position, for instance, delight
full as II was in connection with a stii
untrimmcd, huge crowned hat, ha
lost caste through ovcrgrcat famil
iarity. but it has been the inspiratio
for some very attractive cape stree
irocks and suits.
Callot's simple black satin mode
with its plain short flaring skirt an
its plain long slccved bodice. who's
upper part is a fiat yokclike cape 60
lar, falling just a little over the slcev
tops, b%uttoning down the front like tn
bodice and topped by a straight undo
collar of mink fur. is charming in III
satin, in velvet md In Goth.
Somewhat like this cape arrange
mcnt in line is tho fur and velvet car
collar OF the brown duvctyn mod,
sketched for our central grOu'
though in this case the cape section
removable and the bodice may |
worn with or without it-a most d'
sirable thing in this land Of winter
TOO cold for coatlcss street Costum
and rooms too hot for fur Capcs al
chokcr collars of fur,
This model has a quaint air, thong
II Is sinpl" enough in its own wa
Al 1g, .l 49, .-l