The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-04-18

'"Hcs nave mourning else In common
and their wide divergence in line and
general character illustrate exceilently
the elasticity OF present day fashion
In spite Of the prevailing sentiment in
FAVOR OF the wide skirt. short coat
type. A large majority Of the models
do show the wide skirt and short coat,
but one may wear anything, provided
II is chic.
This bum and white cloth costume
OF the large sketch is unmista kably
modish, though II has a character dis
tinctly its own; and It's fitted, long
waisted coat with long waistcoat and
naring long basdues, over skirt
which, though full. Is draped into
close lines, instead of fiaring. would be
becoming to many women who could
not successfully wear the Callot model
pictured beside It. The draped skirt
OF the costume is Of fine cream white
broadcloth. the coat OF cloth in a
lovely yellow tone that is hardly so
deep as bun. and the yellowed laces
cleverly drape the cream and yellow to-
gether.
There is a good deal Of yellow
among the French models-chief,y
canary. mustard and orange, the last
used most often as a bold relief to
dark color. though some daring but
beautiful dinner and dance frocks In
orange taffeta are shown, and there Is
shot taffeta in orange and blue that
is very beautiful.
Aprcrbs Of orange and blue, ono
very smart model in dark blue tafYeta
and chiffon has its sleeveless blue
chiffon bodice embroidered very
slightly but effectively in blue and
orange. and has long sleeves OF orange
chiffon narrowly bound at tho wrist
by blue taffeta and buttoned snugly
with blue silk buttons.
Bright green is often introduced as
brilliant relieving color too, md &C.
casionally ono sees a whole evening
frock Of emerald green tafYeta or
MORE and tulle.
New shades Of familiar colors are
many. and some of them are lovely.
The primrose pink. for instance. is
charming. but the light grained yell
low. called cane" though much used
especially by the milliners. IL very
trying and not particularly beautiful
!: one omits black from the color
ca a the blues carry all before them
Never was there such a season for
blues-and that IL not intended for
joke. but for a cold statement OF fact
I'VE simply can't keep good dark
blues in stock" a wholesale dealer la
menteG the other day.
81 thought ! bought enough dark
blue taffcta and faille and wolfe and
chiffon to swamp me and IL fairly
melted ~,
wherever | can lay hands on it,"
Paquin is using much dark blue
even for evening frocks, usually in
tulle and relieved by some metallic
foundation or trimming. Some Of the
iridescent blue palette trimmings
are exceedingly effective in this con-
nection. Gold and silver are used too
Ia relieve the sombreness Of the dark
blues. but save when massed for some
| one, bold note on an evening frock
are likely TO he used delicately or
sparingly. A most li<able frock Of
dark blue wolfe. for example. illustra ted
here. had its entire front down to the
hip line. as well as shoulders and back
yoke. embroidered all over In a fine
spdery tracery Of silver thread. There
was wide band of the same en-
broidery around the bottom of the full
straight skirt. The back II the frock
hung stnight and fun from the yoke
Wolfe has unpuestionabiv come into
its own again and. particularly in
dark blue. is in great demand. "A thing
! over which women should rejoice. for
never was there woollen material
more practical and comfortable for hot
weather wear. Grenadines are much
liked too, and CLEANLINESS and some very
good short coat suits are shown in
these materials over taffeta.
Going back for a moment 10 that
blue wolfe model with the straight full
baCk-the use of tho straight un-
fitted back with a fitted front Is sane
toned 10y many Of the best French
houses. and such an arrangement is
often becoming to plump figure than
waist line nipped in all around.
one can even have fnock fairly
straight from shoulder To hem and
not he quite out of the picture. That
type Of frock is not so much worn as
IL was last year. but il j. seen, and
some women tn whom it is becoming
very wisely cling to il.
one Of the best dressed women In
New Works smart set had luncheon
at the Ritz Saturday in a frock evil
IDENTIFY just from the drcsSmaker's
hands, that fell straight for It's full
length in the back ard was but very
loosely girded in front. Clever plating
but not a trace Of flare. The frock