Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-10-14

Shadlngs Produce Beau-
tiful Effects Paris Eve
ming Frocks Reach the
Probable Limit Of Short
ness - Bleu D'Horizon
the New Shade Of Delec-
table Hue.
~ NE waits for the big openings
IL to be made sure of what Is to
be what in winter evening ap-
" parel. All through September,
tailored street costumes and useful
little frocks of taffeta and faille have
been the chief interest-both in the
shops and in the fashion magazines.
Here and there a dance frock, or a
stunning evening wrap has appeared,
like an exotic blossom, come to bloom
before its appointed time in promise
Of what is to be; but at the important
openings, late in September and early
in october formal raiment, which is
to say, evening gowns and wraps and
brilliant costumes for coming recep-
tons, debuts and weddings, occupy
the center of the stage. They are
chief interest now. and tailleurs be-
come the incidentals-part of the
show because they must be represent
ed, but posing modestly in the back
NJ cd tn 10 e
wondrous. shimmering garb for gas
light wear.
Colors in evening gowns are to be
soft, rather than vivid. this year: as
colors in street costumes are neutral
rather than definite. In adopting
sombre tones for her out-of- door
raiment, the Parisicnne also expresses
her sentiment of seriousness in deli
cate, subtle shades for the evening.
Pastel tints, indescribable orchid tints
and ombre shadings produced by
mounting one elusive tone over an
other, are In favor, and if here and
there a radiant gown appears, 1t is
by way of variety and not to be con-
strued as representative type.
"A New Color That Has Caught Paris
Fancy.
Bleu d'HorZon is the lovely new
shade fashionable now in Paris, and
one learns with relief of q modish
color that has about ii no martial sug-
gestion There is, on a summers day,
hazy blue-violet where sky and sea
have their meeting, and this impalpa-
BILE exquisite tint has been caught and
held by the skilled manufacturers Of
fabrics in mouSSelines, chiffons, satins
and other materials for evening cos
tune. Sometimes the bleu d'horzon
Is produced by mounting one shade
of tulle over another--a most lovely
effect when we'll executed. Jenny has
accomplished this result in a dance
gown of blue, violet and flesh pink
tulle, the flesh tone being placed be-
tween the outer violet and the inner
blue. This misty, violet tone pro-
duced is indescribably beautiful, and
there is no trimming on this lovely
gown, unless one may term trim
ming" the brooch of lapis lazuli ringed
with amethysts, which catches togeth-
er the tulle Of the decoletage
In faint primrose yellows is a dance
frock by Callot Soeurs which bears
the usual Callot stamp in trimmings
Of gold fringe and sequins: for CAL
lot. you remember adores brilliant ef-
fects. In seasons Of great brlliance
in evening apparel. the Callot gowns
CLEAN and glisten and scintillate with
metal brocades, gold and silver laces
and the like. This year brilliance is
reduced to its lowest dimension but
Cabot finds way, nevertheless, to
introduce the cleaning touch--as evil
denCa. In ,Nio
tured The foundation is of primrose
yellow satin. the gathered skirt hay
ing a gold fringe and over this Is
dropped a wide skirt of tulle in a
fainter primrose shade; a voluminous
skirt indeed, with a hounce of the
tulle applied at the knee under orange
silk embroidered spots outlined in gold
cord. Two rows Of darker orange
spots border the skrt-hem ana the
orange and gold embroidery outlines
the decolletago Of primrose tulle. The
bodice is of primrose satin with n tab
at the front to give the new princess
effect below the waistline and over
the shoulders Is a guimpe of the tulle
with sleeves of gold sequined net
Notable Is the double tulle founct
which ais gathered around the waist
separating at the front at either side
of the princess bodice. This boufran
fiounce Is in character with fall style!
which call for all sorts of puffs tuck &c
up draperies and rufiies In the vicnit,
of the waistline, to give the effect o
hips. So far, Paris allows only al
effect Of hips Actual hips, Of flesh
are considered gross and unbeautiful
but one may have all the hips on
pleases. of tulle. shirred silk or chif
fon
The couture worn by the maid II
the primrose tulle frock Is the fash
ionable fad for youthful heads. TIL
shape. of the head is well defined b.
the low bandeau Of filigree gold whicl
Is drawn low over forehead and ear
and the ends of the hair arc tucke
under at the sides in what Is Gale
the Castle" style. style affected b
Mrs. Vernon Castle.
A Brilliant Restaurant Gown In Blac
And Red.
Rouge ct noir is the color schem
for a stunning supper and dance gov