davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

Wool crepes are about the most
worth while novelties in dress goods
for summer wear They fill much the
same place as wool challie and nuns
yelling. being soft, light In weight and
durable. But the cI epe surface is
prettier than a plain surface. The
crepes come In all colors and are
used for negligees In fancy shades
and for afternoon. evening and home
gowns.
This fabric is really elegant looking.
It runs about forty inches wide and
Is sold at Is cents yard, or even less
1t does not take much reckoning to
find that an ordinary dress requires
less than five dollars as an invest.
ment for materials.
The novel afternoon dress shown in
the picture Is made in one piece, al
though the bodice and skirt are cut
separately and mounted on a light
underbodice of thin muslin. This
bodice is made separately and fitted
to the figure. extending below the
waist line. The back portion of the
crepe bodice is cut to extend over the
shoulder and is joined to the front
portion several inches below the
shoulder seam in the underbodice.
The front portion is cut out at the
sides in bolero jacket effect and is
fulled into belt at the waist line in
front and at the seams below the
shoulders. The short belt across the
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

excellent for the tourist.
For dressy waist a good model.
made Of net and shadow lace, Is
shown in the picture. The body is of
ne: with border of lace at each side of
the front. and sleeves of lace. These
are finished with hemstitched cuffs.
A standing collar at the back is made
of the lace with scalloped edge and
| wired to hold its position.
Narrow black velvet ribbon is used
in band about the neck and around
the cuf s. At the neck 1t fastens at
one side with hook and eye Small let
buttons complete the design. to which
it is easy to add a color note by
basting in a figured ribbon below the
line of the bust. on the under side of
the net
A little garment that Is likely to
prove a friend in need is pictured In
the knitted waistcoat of wool yarn. 1t
is sleeveless and shaped to fit the fig
ure, reaching to the waist line at the
back and little below in front. It is.
in fact. vest to be worn under the
suit coat when the weather demands
it. Reinforced with this cozy little af-
fair the suit coat will do duty for q
heavier one and tighten the tourists
baggage by that much
JULIA ROTTOMLEY.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

while on pilgrimage to Rome. built
him a cell 1000 feet up the mountain
side. and, upon his recovery, vowed
to devote his life to the conversion of
the mountain tribes. Around his cell
there has grown up city Of more
than thirty thousand. which bears his
name. and which is known to the dry.
goods buyers of all countries.
An abbey was built. and its Irish
monks. distinguished throughout Eu-
rope for their devotion to learning,
here made safe retreat for their
studies. Centuries before the Renais-
sance the monks of st. Gallen studied
both Greek a1d Latin. and painstak-
ingly copied many Of the ancient
texts. These manuscripts are still
preserved in the library Of st. Gall,
and they form a priceless nucleus Of
It's collections.
Considerable American capital has
been attracted to this energetic little
manufacturing city. Some of the
great factories, with their scores Of
highly intricate. almost-intelligent ma.
chimes, are entirely owned by Ameri-
can manufa cturers, who regularly Wis.,
it their plants and make preparations
for this country's seasonal supplies.
The American consulate at ST. Gall IS
a very busy Office. and it has to do al
most solely with the embroideries and
the machine-embroider laces of St.
Call and of the surrounding villages
for American consumption.
Another town that has suffered Sc
verely by the war Is Calais, which
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
LEES SURRENDER
At APp0MATT0x
Date Should Be irrevoca5ly Fixed
in the Minds. of the Amer.
lean People.
BY ]. A. WATRous.

Gieutenant-Colone. u. 8. A.. Retired)
7 Am writing on Wednesday. April
8. but thinking of April 9. fifty
years ago, when two powerful
American armies came together the
last time to fight after having fought
for nearly four years in score or
more great battles, not to mention
many smaller ones: the day upon
which one of these armies, that of the
Army of Northern Virginia, which had
been under the command of Gen Rob-
ert E. Lee ever since June, 1862. sur.
rendered to General U. S. Grant. COM
mander of all the armed forces of
the Union.
1t was a great day for both armies.
and. for that matter. the whole ma.
tion, the South az well as the North.
though Lees army and the South did
not look upon it from that standpoint
at the time. | am Of those who have
always maintained that the supremest
kindness ever manifested toward peo-
pie was extended t. the South when.
under the leadership of Mr. Lincoln,
the rest of the Union prevented the
South from leaving the Union to build
up southern confederacy That is
why say. fifty years after the mo-
mentous event. 1t was a great day for
both armies and the nation.
Many things happened at Appomat.
tox aside from the one overshadowing
event. One of them is the fact that
Grants soldiers and Lees soldiers be-
after the surrender.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

front Is braided with soutache braid
matching the crepe in color. A short
belt braided in the same way extends
across the back.
The waist is cut with v opening
at the neck in front and standing turn
over collar at the back. This collar
is faced with black satin, which is
decorated at the edge with a pattern
put on with sand-colored soutache
braid. Cuffs of the crepe are cut with
turnover upper edge which Is also
faced with black satin and finished
at the edge with the soutache braid
as on the collar. A separate stock OF
black satin with fat bow In front I'm.
ishes the neck.
The dress fastens with fat pearl
buttons down the front. Covered but
tons made OF black satin might be
used to good advantage In place OF
the pearl A shaped piece set on at
each side carries a little pocket.
Machine stitching with silk like the
crepe in color makes a decorative fin
ish at the seams.
1t requires about FIVE yards Of dou-
BILE width goods for this dress. SO that
the crepe aud the satin cost not more
than four dollars. leaving a sufficient
balance to pay for the buttons, braid
and silk thread. and also for the bit
of thin muslin that makes the under
bodice
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
AN ECHO FROM GETTYsBURG
Carrying Away of Lees Wounded
Soldiers Characterized as Most
AWesonre Spectacle.

One Of the most dramatic incidents
of the Civil war was the retreat of
Lees army after Gettysburg. with its
hundreds Of wagonloads of wounded
soldiers.
A woman who lived by the road
down which this long line of scream
ing, groaning and dying men were
being hauled told me recently that It
was the most awesome event of her
life. They went by her home during
the night.
But even the wounded had to make
way for the guns. When the artillery
came laundering along the road the
officers in command of 1t forced the
wagons loaded with wounded to give
them the right Of way, which was
done
A good many of the thousands Of
the Union wounded 1T Gettysburg
were brought to Phila delphia war hos
ritals by railroad trains. The nearly
5000 dead in blue and gray who lay
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

The experienced traveller soon
earns to travel light" or, in more ex-
plicit terms, to take along as little
luggage as possible. Going on sight
seeing journey requires somewhat diff.
ferent Quitting from going on visit.
But one must Re prepared to meet
emergencies in either case. For the
tourist hand bag and good-sized
suit case will carry about all that
the sight-seer needs. unless it is that
everlasting problem. the extra hat.
And the parcel post or express com
panies will look after that.
Blouses and bodices are made of
such sheer mat, rials fat good sup
ply of them takes up little room.
Wash silk pCngee. and crepe de chine
b!ouses. made in plain tailored styles.
are to be relied upon for wear while
travelling. Fancier h'ouses of chiffon
or lace will be needed. but one or
two of them will serve for those oc-
casicns that -equire something more
dressy than the tailored blouse
An elegant, new model in crepe de
chine is shown In the Illustration
strictly tailored and suitable for wash
silk or pongee 1t is finished with
a turnover collar and turned back
cuffs. The seams are set together
with hemstitching, which is decora.
tive feature on waists of this kind. A
little pocket at the side and white
buttons with black rims complete the
smart design. Similar waists in pom
gee are frightened with brilliant red
or green buttons. or with buttons bor-
dered with black like those on the pic
tured waist
Besides these, there are the waists
OF plain voile having small tucks and
little strong lace used in their con-
struction. They Withstand wear ana
tear as well as silk fabrics and are
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
WOULD NOT HAVE FALTERED
,'ation of the War No DisioyaIty
Was Possible.

1t is true that no one foresaw how
gigantic a war 1t was to be. The talk
ut first was of $4,000 men and so
days. But suppose it could have been
foreseen that the conflict would last
four years; that 100000 men would
be enlisted on the Union side: that
the Union casualties would be, $1,000
killed In battle. $4,000 died of wounds.
1879 900 died from disease and $4,000
died in prison and bv accidents. would
the awful toll have dismayed the loyal
people Of the nation? Would the
South have been more than sobered
by the corresponding losses for itself?
IN the year after Gettysburg and the
Vicksburg surrender the campaign to-
ward Richmond. BEGINNING with the
Wilderness, was still to be fought,
arr; to prove the bloodiest episode Of
all, with the Union loss in killed and
wounded of over 10000 in Virginia
alone 1t was up to then the most
DESTRUCTIVE war Of n0deTn tire that
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

flag leading, another down the line.
the beginning and the end of all Me-
mortal days. Two rode in front. the
horse of one refractorily impatient of
the bands big, booming drum; the
little girls. clad in white and bearing
wreathes; the local boys brigade: the
long line Of carriages. noticeably few.
er than last May. with their precious.
sad remnants; the young men of the
Spanish war; the bands: and. in the
rear. as in the var. the flag whose
stars had been kept intact.
Shelby scanned the faces in the car
riages: once in sudden hope because
of a wave of the hand. 1t was an.
swered by slip of girl beside him
whose feet kept time on the curb Els
turned away from the last carriage in
sharp disappointment. Ripton's fail
ure dragged him down little. and
all that gaping crowd: even the young
thing beside him whose skirts the
skirtling wind blew back from sIen-
der ankles. 1t shock out over their
heads. the passing flag.
Look, There he Is! Sne cried.
An iron-gray man In quiet suit and
plain tie. the feet within his dusty
shoes marking time despite their
weary lag: his face drawn In suf.
fering beyond WEAKNESS or weight of
fag-pole: but about his mouth the
look of the grandfather who fought
under Perry, and of the ancestor who
fell on Lexington Common one April
morning; his eyes full of the spirit
of 81.
Shelby beamed on the girl her
own pride glowing his heart.
Mother knew him." she explained
shyly. glancing at her black frock.
and father-that was he who waved
father and found him on the train.
He wanted to go back three days
ago. But We asked him to carry the
flag"
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
MEMORIAL DAY.

To stately monuments that point
To mansions in the sky.
And village churchyards green and still
Where generations lie.
Once more we bring the fairest flowers
That crown the rolling year,
Once more about our hero-dead
The nation drops a tear.
The armies of the Blue and Gray
Their endless bivcuac keep.
The soldiers of the war with Spain
In camps of silence sleep.
Not one among them died in vain.
Each dauntless spirit glows
A beacon-fire on Glory's heights,
Alike for friends and foes.
So scatter them with blossoms sweet
Cniumb'a's gallant dead.
White lilies like the northern SHOWS,
And southern roses red:
Some pcrshed Of the fever-stroke.
Some fell beside the guns,
And some we're right. and some were
wrorg.
But ali were Freedoms sons
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
Who? Oh. the pelle? She of II

Who? Oh. the belle? She of tnf
slim waist and the simmer ankIes'
George" said Ripton. in his voice
a touch of gentle dignity new to his
friend. we'll just not mention-her
ankles. They don't - among m,
kind
Shelby buried his amusement and
his smart. to follow eagerly In the
wake of this CHARGE straw. She'll be
there. The women are great on re-
unions. Bet you'll find her on the
train" He rose oh, you're going
all right. old man See you tomorrow
about fixing you out
AS they walked the platform. wait
suit and plain tie according well with
his iron-gray hair, Ripton looked the
part of prosperous country gentle
nan, albeit one with touch OF sport
ing blood. as was evidepced in the gay
border of his handkerchief. Not his
the nervousness and the uncertainty.
His bearing was dignified. his tread
firm. and more noticeably accented on
the right foot. as became one who was
going back to keep sep with the
boys Back farther yet. to things in
herited and conventional.
Shelby, who, for the last few weeks.
had in turn steadied him, sObered him.
cajoled. fiattered, browbeat and in
spired him, poured every ounce Of his
own vigorous will into the other 8
vacillating temperament. found him
self undistanced, unable to approach
this quiet, self-contained man BY
whose side he trotted. and was dimly
aware that the change was inward as
well as outward His last words OF
counsel and pleading Glove to his
tongue as he gazed helplessly at his
own handiwork. Perplexity wrote
her beady sign across his forehead
He could only rasp out, as he helped
his friend mount the steps: mot q
drop. not drop mind"
Understanding what the other would
do for him. Ripton wrung his fat
clammy hand and. as the train pulled
out. carefully replaced the gay hand
kerchief with white one. its R fas.
tidiously arranged to view.
Three days passed. Thursday Shelby
surreptitiously hung around the sta.
ton. Friday he met the trains openly
and took the bar.room crowd into his
confidence. Bet Bills full" they
sniggered, ''of the spirit OF '61."
Martial sounds hurried him to the
main street. There they came-a big
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

in neutral Switzerland. 1t has
seen it's trade of centuries
growth swept away by a struggle in
which its people have no interest. St.
Gall is town of one industry and
that for the export trade, says the
National Geographic society. 1t is u
worId-famous center for the manufac-
ture of machine-embroidered white
goods, and its wares have found sale
over the whole earth. 1t has done an
annual trade IN these articles with
America of between six and seven
million dollars a year. It also had
heavy business with the countries of
Europe and South America and those
of the Orient Since the outbreak Of
the war its export routes have been
closed, while some of its largest Gus
toners have been forced by their war
expenditures to stop all purchase of
soreign-made luxuries.
The town has grown wealthy
through the centuries. and 1t has con-
tinually developed it's one industry,
built many factories, large and small.
where an important percentage of the
embroidered white goods of the world
are worked. and through all the
neighborhood around the city the
same industry has found development
as a home industry, in which hand
machines are used
Crew Around Monks Cell.
st. Gall perches high UP on noun
tain shoulder. considerably back from
the Lake of Constance. It grew up
around the mountain cell of learned
Irish monk, st. Gallen. who. taken
sick here in the seventh century
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
S[:(CALLL7' 7|4}R 7|E@RzI!k It

though it has been looked on by tour.
lists as merely threshold Of cont.
mental Europe, is in reality one OF
the four greatest machine made lace
cities of the world. 1t is as a CEN
ter of manufa ;tured laces that Calais
in peace times is most widei7 noted.
Calais Is a lace town Almost
everything about it has some bearing
upon the filmy, delicate webbing
the world. Should tourist miss his
Paris express-a thing, by the way,
which is most improbable, for the
Calais-Paris connections are excellent
and find himself forced to spend
scme hours in the city. the first thing
he remarks is that there seems to be
a dozen or more women to every man
upon the streets. While, of course,
the relative disproportion Is nowhere
near SO great, still girls and women
do largely outnumber the men. az
Tie lace industry is continually draw
ing them from the surrounding coun-
try to it's factories.
The loiterer next notices lace signs
everywhere. upon commission houses
and factories. Generally. these signs
appear in three languages. French.
German and English In spring and
autumn he will meet a continual
stream of his countrymen. buyers for
the big importing houses.
OF his own free will. however, ths
traveller seldom stays. He is always
willing to leave Calais for most any.
where. There are plenty Of self-cen.
tered. serious. hustling business
towns at home, and there is no oc-
casion for enduring the monotonous
twentieth century atmosphere when
on. is on a pleasure trip. There ara.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

nevertheless, many things worth Sec
ing in the fiat dingy. strictly practical
port city. Visits to the great lace fac
tories are we'll worth while. and
usually give one a new reverence for
the possibilities of insensible machin-
cry. To see the most intricate pat
terms mingled in foam wave OF ex.
euisite lace possibly of several colors.
with gold and silver threads. and all
this done by a massive. complicated
piece of machinery. at one end de-
vouring thousands OF thread strands
and, at the other. giving forth lace
&c 1al to the highest cunning of the
human hand, is to witness almost the
perfection of mans inventive genius.
And then, this piece of machinery op.
crates automatically. much like the
player-piano.
Calais shares with Nottingham.
England, the hoEors for the manufac.
ture of machine-woven laces. The
other two leading lace towns make
what are known as the embroidered
and burnt out" laces on entirely diff.
ferent machines Calais smuggled It's
industry from England, but it has add
ed to the original English processes
and machinery enough to be in posi-
ton to claim perfection of its own.
Aside from, and beyond. its niomeu.
tary military interest, Calais has the
liveliest interest for the person wide
awake to present-day marvels. as 4
world center If lace production where
all the famed handmade lace genre
are initiated on machines
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
Many Women Volunteers,

Undoubtedly quite number of
women served as soldiers in the Civil
war. disguised as men. And many
more, who would have liked to go,
sought the opportunity in vain One,
who made application to the officer
in charge of the draft bureau at New
Work. wrote: Pardon the liberty /
take; but am an ablebcdied woman,
and. II you will enlist me. will put
On soldiers clothing and go. Thera
shall never be anyone the wiser un
Ill my time has expired. think {
should make better soldier than q
great many men who are always taik-
ing hui won't fight"
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
The Historical BACKGROUND.

A war in America ould not have a
certain glamour for Europeans that a
war in Europe has for Americans.
A great battle at Humansville. or
Podunk or Dobb's Ferry would have
no traditional interest compared to
battles around Verdun. or for Strass-
burg. or in Poland. Think of Verdun,
a place of French and Germans bat
Ting with modern guns; and of Ver-
dun. the place where was first marked
off by treaty the beginnings of French
and German national or racial lives.
The lack Of great deal of such ira
ditionai interest is happy enough.
Thank heaven 1t is not with us. But
the historical background across tho
water helps the war news greatly,
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

most the last. Of good millinery and.
good dressing at the present time.
Time rather than money is the i'm
portant factor for success. and If only
anxiety did not rob women OF their
beauty, women might claim to be
looking their best under the restraint
they are putting on their love of lux
ury.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28
The Swords Of Grant and Lee

Methinks tonight catch a gleam
OF steel among the pines.
And yonder by the liled stream
Repose the foemen's lines;
The ghostly guards who pace the grount
moment stop to see
If Ill is safe and still around
The tents Of Grant and Lee.
'Tis but dream: no armies camp
Where once their bay'nets shone
And HeSper's calm and lovely lamp
Shines on the dead alone.
A cricket chfrps on yonder rise
Beneath the cedar tree
Where glinted meath the summer skies
The swords of Grant and Lee.
Forever sheathed those famous. blades
That led the eager van!
They shine no more among the glades
That fringe the Rapidan
Today their battle work Is done.
Go draw them forth and see
That not stain appears upon
The swords of Grant and Lee.
Today no strife of sections rise.
Today no shadows fall
Upon our lanG. and meath the skies
One flag waves over all;
The Blue and Gray as comrades stand.
AS comrades bend the knee,
And ask Gods blessing on the land
That gave US Grant and Lee.
So long as southwark. wide and clear
POtOn,aCS 8 river runs
Their deeds will live because they were
Columbia's brave sons
So long as bend the northern pines,
And blooms the orange tree.
The swords will shine that led the lines
= OF valiant Grant and Lee.
Methinks / hear q bugIe blow.
Methinks / hear a drum:
And there. with martial step and slow.
Two ghostly armies come:
They are the men that met as foes,
For tits the dead / see.
And side by side In peace repose
The swords of Grant and Lee.
Above them let Old Glory wave,
And let each dtathless star
Forever shine upon the brave
Who led the ranks of war:
Their fame resounds from coast to coast
From mountain top to sea:
No other land than ours can boast
The swords OF Grant and Lee.
= Author unknown.
The Prince George's enquirer and southern Maryland advertiser. (Upper Marlborough, Md.) 1882-1925, 1915-05-28

Good Grooming Prevails.
CT hats there seems SO little to say
tLas to say anything may be supertlu-
GUS They are all small, most OF them
are black. although few flowers are
to be seen as trimmings Wells are
general. and the tight coiffure of the
moment gives all women the effect
Of having small heads, To see hair
puffed out in these days makes one
feel quite uncomfortable. 1t looks so
slack and a little bold Neatness,
.rimness. and extremely good groom
ing arc tha first elements snG al