Evening journal., 1915-05-06

NEW YORK. May s--Nowhere is
the American idea OF directness more
strongly felt than in clothes. Paris
offers wealth Of ideas and America
selects one. After weeks of hesita-
tion. while the popularity of one style
or another in the priceless collection
received after a perilous trip across
the Atlantic, quakes in the balance,
the American public, at last, places
emphasis on one chosen feature and
the coatee dress becomes universal;
not tailored creation as the name
implies. but a sheer confection of
lace. net or batiste. topped with
gay silk or lingerie jacket.
So cavalier have fashions become.
they carry us bac' to the Cromwellian
era Like spirits of the old French
empire, society in lingerie dresses
trips across the velvety lawns or loi-
tors in old rose gardens. The other
day. ] CHANGED upon a party enjoy
ing tea in the far corner Of a green
lawn under the shade OF a mulberry
tree: the black wicker furniture. up
holstered in broad stripes, strewn
with apple blossoms. was as striking
in effect as The frocks the girls wore.
vivacious dark-eyed Miss, who
served tea at the glass-topped table.
carried off we'll the style OF the smart
coatee in frOck that bespoke the
couiurier Jenny. The bodice OF allOver
embroidery, nipped in at the waist as
fashion approves. showed from be-
meath the iaunty jacket Of dark blue
taifeta silk. The Quakcrish collar and
cuffs OF white organdy made a con-
Meeting link with the billowing folds
of organdy. laid in deep crosswise
folds. panoled with embroidery and
trimed with Valenciennes lace. which
formed the skirt
That she was deyotee to the fad
Ct fancy shoes. one could easily guess.
TOR her pumps were the last word in
style: the heel. back and vamp was of
patent leather and The uppers Of white
kid 10 match the white silk stockings.
Beside the low chair. garden hat
carelessly dropped. glistened in the
sun. for ii was one OF the new dark
LluC shiny straws. The crown was
oircled with tulle with pond lilies be-
renth and, like all other broad-brm-
med garden hats, II had black velvet
etreamers attached to the back; these
eprawled on tho grass as if they we're
tired of their voyage through the
wind.
The guest Of honor. an artist Of
fame who is making the best of a
war-enforced exile, was a credit To
The maker of the clothes she wore;
what could be smarter for woman
passed thirty than a symphony in
Black and white? Again the coatee
was the chief detail Of the costume;
this time Il was short Iouave
Jacket Of exquisite baiiste. heavily
embroidered II opened rs she lounged
in her chair. showing "A waist Of plain
batiste Flouncing repeated in the
sleeves and skirt yoke. and a lower
skirt Of plain batiste, cut circular that
T. might fare the more. needed only
the black and white. blazer striped,
girde to bring out it's style. so per-
foctly was every detail worked out
The skirt cleared the ground by
about four inches; mature women
have all adopted this length as more
/ becoming than the extremely short
/ skirt. Below tine skirt a trim white
huckskin tic laced in black could be
seen. Her white Milan straw, medium
/ IN size. with brim flaring just enough
/ to soften her face. sported a bow OF
/ the blazer striped silk and her slen-
1 der-handled parasol. resting open on
/ the back Of her chair completed the
/ LECTURE of an up-to-date woman we'll
| dressed.
So diverse are the effects gained with
these Jackets il is hard to believe so
many frocks have the same feature
, Here. is a ccatee of robins egg blue
I taTeta. fitted through the body. hav-
! ing falng tails, and "leg o. mutton
sleeves set in with narrow frills re.
vived from Victorian styles. This Is
worn with voluminous skirt OF net
There is frock of cotton crepe, en-
/ hroidered and hemstitched IN PINK
with coatee OF pink linen; while a
model of voile and filet lace has .
Jacket of black faille cut on the boil
/ ero order. Indeed. there is no end tC
the materials. Dolly Warden taifetas
deep old-world pink and brilliant blue
CARD OF THANKS.