The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-02-14
No Sensational Modes So Far This
Season---Colors More Subdued Than
Usual---Plenty of Pretty Costumes
for Spring and Summer

L
the checked effects ranging from large
to small and echoing the various
wcaves familiar in connection with
black and white.
Occasionally, in the Irregular
checked designs line Of white enters
the scheme very effectively. one Of
the best looking imported models
| brought over by Fifth avenue tailor
| last week was in one of these tawny
! yellow and black checks, made severe
| ~ plain With skirt of only moderate
width and coat on modified Norfolk
! lines bcted rather closely by a narraw
belt Of the material trimmed in black
leather. buttons of the cloth with
black centres.
| In silks. faille of ono sort or an
other appears to he in first place. but
| il is by no means alone in the field.
and though silks of greater softness
but Of considerable body are we'll liked,
the gossamer wcaves have their popu-
| larty too Mention has been made OF
the taffcta Gros grain; hut there is a
taffcta almost as sheer and soft as the
for dc sole, which itself resembles an
ethcrializcd China silk Of exquisite
quality.
This flor de sole In the Cabot stripes
| l. charming thing for the summer
frock and ought to find ready sale. \
wide stripe. Of two inches or "A little
more. in delicious rose, Is flanked, let
" say. by "A very narrow stripe Of
black on each side, on a ground OF
warm ivory which forms stripe al
ternatng with the rose. or perhaps
the color Is "A bright soft blue instead
of rose and the ground is light beige,
white the black remains the same.
There are dotted effects in this
same silk. big coin dots as large as
a quarter in dark blue or black. scat
tered at rather wide intervals over a
surface Of beige or sand color.
stripes. plain broken, Powered,
dotted. openwork; stripes of every
conceivable sort are featured. Ribbed
! weaves. too. are everywhere: though,
naturally. It Is among woollen cloths
, that they have their greatst success
Checked and plaided silks are shown,
but not 50 enthusiastically as was
, expected, Highland affiliations having
been expected to influence the manu-
2 facturers in favor of tartar. effects.
\ good many of the new models are
coming over in grays. the French ap-
; parently having naif "A mind to trans
fer neutral tin, popularity from tn,
T beige to the gray tones: but gray is
, by no means generally becoming
, / though for that matter, neither Is
: beige. Battleship gray is distinctly
, trying and there have been other
shades recently launched that arr
worse but the French are now eX'
: plotting softer and lighter grays with
- ~" pinkish or creamy cast that rem
II drrs them far less cruel to the aver
u age complexion.
= Gray Is used also as q relieving
: note to a considerable extent. ant
. ribbed or gros grain silk waistcoats
o cuffs, &c, Of gray are appearing tr
e connection with suits OF blue or dul
e red or violet or deep purple. Their
l. are some very attractive rather rough
woolcn suitings and coat material
r in which a lovely rose red of "A sof
e fruity tone Is lightly mixed with gra!
. and some excellent French models us'
n this rose and gray motif with relieYinl
" gray.
P. Cursory examination Of tho i'm
10 ing models already displayed leave
10 one with a pleasant sense of reliei
= There is really no necessity for in
n slant and drastic change in one
shape or gait. If one has kept at al
= in step with late winter and 'twiX
q. seasons models there is not even al
- solute necessity Of changing one
- frocks, save from desire for some
~, thing new.
= For We seem to be very nearl
where we have been for severe
~ months past We perhaps must abar
don moyen age lines pure and sim
II pie, but we may keep our large waist
If We please. Premet will Mt thos
III large waists rather more snugly tina
r. Cabot or Cherut. and all insist firml
le upon hattening us in back and from
Or but the much discussed pulling in
as corsets and actual pinching in Z
or waists Is. II would seem. to be r
n more general than It was last seaso
s. with a certain type of frock one doe
i'll a bit Of II: but there's no necessit
O. Of wearing that type of frock unle'
ID, one fancies il.
he And there are other survivals. One
IN more the kimono sleeve has refuse
to die. though 1t admits that its healt
T. Is not what II was. The tunic HI
he not been relegated to the limbo
t; forgotten modes, though IT does n
es dominate as Il did. Russian blouse
es double skirts, wide girdles, Sleeveless
is evening bodices, all retain Parlsis
lie sanction.
o. What are the things that are di
ferent? Well. that brings us back
de the point from which we starte
Ike Nothing seems to be enormously, ra
'rt ically, outcryingly different. The di
'st ferences are in the little things.
he