The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-07
Nothing So Handsome, So Varied and
in Their Most Desirable Forms So
Expensive as These Garments

looked IKE chlpmi'nk skin and that
echoed exactly the tones in the
leopard skin trimmed this coat, the
stripes running along the bands and
around the high collar.
Chinchilla and c%hinchilla squirrel
are used too for striped trimming
effects. being applied in wide bands
that emphasize the stripe. A fine
~breitschwanz or caracul trimmed IN
h gray fur is extremely effective.
but. OF course, chinchilla and its imi-
tat'ons are trying to many COM
ple.ions.
Real chinchilia. like rea. seal. real
ermine. sable and the othe.. rare furs,
has risen in price until only the few
can wear IL. yet full flowing coats Of
this beautiful sllvcry fur are shown.
One gorgeous chinchilla coat. very
ample and of flve-eighths length, wa.
trimmed only in itself. but a lined
with n wonderful glowing yellow on
the COZ de roche shading.
Moiesltin lends itself charming.y To
the full cont skirts II the day and il a
highly favored trimming fur for cloth
end velvet. as are seal and beaver. all
three making handsome wide band
- 'NA' ~ it''fN ''fAoe . .
out uncomfortable b,lkiness.
The ve.vet coats of this season are
really lovely and upon them the de-
sigrers rave lavished their skill and
inspiration as well as the handsomest
Of materials. Where to begin in talk
ing Of them one hardly knows. There
Is more variety of line here than in tho
! furs or cloths. because the exquisite
ln.. - Al. ,1- H. -
/ things possible: and so We find ret
only the general types described iN
connection with fur coats. but in
Vulnerable variations upon these t,'pes.
Collars are on the same order as
those used for the fur and cloth coats.
The tremendously high fur collar Of
the mum or "hoker variety In fist
favorite. with the high roll collar. tho
collar rolling up and ava. from i
line a little below the base Of tho
neck and the pelerlne collar as alter
natives.
often the collar is OF velvet. fu"
trimmed instead Of icing entirely Of
fur. and this opens the way for origi-
nality.
All Of the dark We vets are used for
afternoon coats by the a makers.
Black. Of course. has first place be-
aus of its all around adaptabil.;y. but
ver,. dark browns. the dark greens
Srays. prunc. dark blue. the stripe and
castor tones. the annie and sulphur
yeiiows and the Burgundy and Bor-
deauX reds appear In the display %
afternoon coats. Without exception
they are fur trimmed. most often IN
some dark long haired fur like skurl;
or i,s cheaper relatives, but any ami
every effective fur from Sab c to beaver
! is pressed into service.
Beaver IL. by the way. n great favor
ito and harmoniZes delightfully."- with
many shades OF velvet. With seal and
mole and the lark ong haired furs it
il a sianCb, fo- the coat Of fairly mod
crate price.
Kolinski trims some Of tho lovelicst
Of the velvet coats. but IS by no means
.Geypensivc. though il seems 80 in
comparison with some OF the brow
furs II most closely resembles.
Among the velvet coats much
originality in sleeves, as well as in
collars. IS possible. and the dropped
shoulder often appears in these coats.
as in the mosi!sh bodice.
One handsome afternoon coat OF
dull blue velvet trimming in skunk
has this dropped shoulder line en-
phas!zcd by lines Of fur n its sleeve
wrinkles softly from tho elbow to the
hand. The collar of this coa is Of
;hc velvet uurdercd in FUR and rolls
Nigh in the back hut low in front.
The bottom of this coat il considerably
shorter In ron than .a the lack and
bordered narrowly in fur.
But while the narrow line OF fur
hos its uses, il il the more messed
iur effect that il telling upon the VEL
vet coat. the Wild band on the bot
tom. the big collar. Some. Of the lands
around the bottom ar" NOR" than 81
loot wide, hut this sort OF thing calls
for the short pile. supple furs.
Cape arrangements are seen upon
some OF the chic velvet coats as wei,
al upon cloth models and enter into
the schemes uf many l~-tut!fu, eve
ming cnats-but the evening "a is
another story.
\ hint Of ;hc military theme which
the French couturiers SO resolutely put
aside this season creeps into a few
of the street coat models through his
CAPE motif. hut this Is in connection
with cloth coats rather tina with
those Of velvet. ON TIN" velvet coat
tho cape Is more likely 10 take on
lines artistic rather than severely chic,
y and very frequently It has 10 do chiefly