Five Mile Beach weekly journal., 1915-02-19

\ spite of efforts to discourage the
wearing of mourning In Europe,
there are hosts of women who In
sist upon it. The women Of the
higher classes no less than those of the
middle aud lower classes feel that they
must pay, If In only a modified form.
this tribute of respect to the relatives
who are slain ON battlefields or die In
hospitals.
The somherness of garb this season
adhered to by English and French
women has Influenced American fash
ions. 1t has also brought about the
more scrupulous wearing Of mourning
smart world. This mourning is a modi-
fed form In which white Is tastefully
combined with black.
One might as well expect the soldiers
of France to desert their colors and
leave their country to its fate as to ex-
pect F~renchw0men to lay aside their
mourning wear.
For many years it has been the Gus
tom for Frenehwomen to wear what
is known as complimentary u
ing-that is. they wear Grape for a
friend for thirty days. In Germany
the custom Is quite as common.
For many decades the Englishwoman
has not only worn mourning for her
friends and relatives. but 1t is Gus
tomary for her to wear court mourn
ing at the death of a king or queen.
There are IN this country many fami-
lies that are more or less distantly re-
lated to people on the other side Of the
water. and 1t follows that they will
wish to wear the appropriate mourning
garb when they learn of the loss of
their friends and relatives.
Mourning has been brought into dis
repute more on account of the ridicu-
lous manner in which it has been Sc
lected and worn than because of the
somberness of it.
There are certain rules that must be
adhered to for mourning wear. Grape
is the only material that is absolutely
correct. 1t is a material that is manu-
featured for this purpose and no 9th
or. Gowns may be made of any n
of several dull finished black mate
rails. but the trimmings and %6nishings
should be crape.
The woman who wears a black chip
hat with a ribbon bow and possiHiY
a feather with a Grape bordered veil
hanging down the back Is a caIdcature.
Therefore if one desires to don the
mourning garb it should be done cor
rectly or not at all. II a long veil is
to be worn the hat should have a
rounded or dome shaped crown.
With the wearing Of a draped veil
no other garniture is permissible. even
the length of time for wearing mourn
ing is established. The custom of the
present is. however. much
more lenient than it was in the past.
For one wearing mourning for a ia
Their or mother. sister or brother. the
length of time for deep mourning Is
one year. six months for second
mourning and six months going out"
For children the wearing Of MOURN
ing Is one-half this length of time. but
the conditions are the same.
Undoubtedly the newestnyeil on the
market is the one named in honor of
the ex-Empress Eugene of France.
who has been dressing in deep mourn
ing since 1879. The veil Is of silk
brussels net bordered with English
Grape. 1t has a collar attached to one
corner of the veil, which is finished
around the neck. after which the veil
is thrown back over the small hat.
covering the face and then draping in
careless folds in the back.
Quite a number of the very newest
hats of Grape foundations are more or
less deliberately trimmed in either or
naments or wide fancy bands of duh
Jet. ORA CNE.