Evening journal., 1915-06-21
One of the New Normal Waistline
Frocks Made in the Popular
Blue Taffeta.

NEW YORK, June 2l-For the nrst
time in three long years. waistlines
return to their normal place.
logical review of the past few months
disclose two distinct reasons toc this
change in fashion; first, the full
skirt. and second, the corset. II is
not surprising that the waistlile
c8pered about when corsets were
trico and the silhouette straight up
and down; but now that skirts are
vcluminous and corsets real stays
nipped in at the sides, the Joining or
the waist and skirt naturally comes ct
the smallest part of the form, name
ly. the waistline, as nature placed 1t.
II has taken many months TO bring
about the evolution. and even yet
there are those who are loath 10 give
UP their stay-belts and back to nature
corsets. When Joseph. in the early
season exhibited silk frocks with nor
NAL waistlines, many admired this
couturiere's courage; but few recos-
nized the step as a style prediction
so soon to be realized.
Today, smart frocks have trim
waists, definitely marked. Whether
you are summering at Hopatcong,
| escaping the heat at a beach resort,
OF passing the easily season in town.
| il is impossible 10 be oblivious, to
this one feature, at least, of the mode.
Again and again. fashion repeats her
self in the ever prevalent blue tai
feta dress. Wherever the New Yorker
goes, you see it, If any one thinks
I she can dodge the clothes issue by
packing up and hiking off to the coun-
/ try. the mountains or the shore, she
is sadly but surely mist On. In
the Adirondacks you will find all the
! style of the Avenue There are the
girls with their summer furs. wide
sailor hats and Japanese parasols,
! ansplanted whole from New York,
without the veneer of style spoiled
or blemished.
At one hotel. three hours by bus
from the station, a girl from the me-
! tropolis wore a taffeta frOck that liter
ally followed letter for letter the Vic
/ torian mode. II was made of the
! perpetual blue taffeta with waist nor
] NAL and skirt sectional. formed OF
seven tiers each successive tier fuller
/ than the one before. gathered at the
top and corded to the section above
\ the bodice was plain save for an in
verted. V-shaped vest of organdy, and
a soft organdy collar; this was pro-
i duct of a New York dressmaker. per-
feet so far as style was concerned.
So incessant is the demand for blue
/ taffeta for these dresses, that the
stores have difficulty in keeping it in
stock. The craze is apparent in every
department. Hats are of the French
D., sailor type; on these the brim Is
slightly wider at one side than on tho
other. and they are worn a tride tilt.
ed. OF blue straw. blue taffeta or blue
French crepe. they are trimmed with
wings. a single bead ornament. OF
gauze flowers, wired in shape Pumps
are shown in navy blue leather
4. smartly piped in white. and even darl
blue gloves in gauntlet style have
been introduced But these are not as
popular as the white silk gloves, fin
ished with the Queen Elizabeth frills
and worn on the outside of the dress
for even blue, to be really chic. mus
have a dash Of white for contrast.
The fancy for the popular blue wi
be restricted. however. by the shortag
of dye material in this country. On
| manufactured NiHht lit statement Alt
we may be thankful TO get any colo
at all if the war continues; and this. II
doubt. accounts for the makers of silk
irving to force black-and white effect
, for midsummer and fall Already "
are seeing. hero and there, in these new
normal waistlinc dresses, smart black
, and white effects One silk manufa,
, iurer is showing a great variety Of Gre
clan designs in black and white, an
: black and gold. So unusual and orig
} nal are the patterns, that they hay
, taken the trouble to have each copy
riphted. lest manufacturers of inferic
: materials duplicate the designs. If thi
; house successfully launches these silk
7 on the market, and from their record
past seasons they undoubtedly vii
, women will soon be wearing froeks wit
silhouctted Dicky birds and checker
boards the conspicuous theme OF the ms
terial.
This dyeing and manufacturin
= question. however. is a chapter by II
I self. After all. what does II matte
| whether the dresses with their new
found waistlines are white, black o
/ cclored. so long as the result is wha
. the French term "chic?" This yer
> thing is brought about in the tu
r frocks Of the season where all shade
= OF green. blue and tan are used.
] At Long Beach this week. ther
{ vsrc any number of smart ponge'
linen. artificial silk, and cotton rstin