New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-08-29

for uncounteU months ahead, they rule in the
scheme of color They are trimmed with sill
yer. steel with jet and pearl embroidery and
pearl beading. The corsage is cut with the
Italian line across the front-straight from
shoulder to shouder-but at the back it
descends into deep ~" The sleeves are
long and tight; the skirts are short, with a
long, slender overtrain.
MORE OR LESS FULNESS.
Some of the collections OF new gowns are
marked by skirts of excessive fulness out as a
rule the new skirts are only moderately full;
and it is plainly evident a strong effort has
been made to preserve the line To say that
skirt is short and full expresses little; it
is the manner in which the fulness is gained.
In the Martial and Armand collection the
fitness is achieved in a variety o. ways;
some skirts appear as full at the waist line
as at the hem, but at the waist it IS only an
appearance Of fitness Wide godets, cleyerly
inset, complete the scheme. The manneNns
walk with a majestic freedom Of gait IN
fnitely graceful and admirable The fat ap-
pearance back and front, so noticeable in al
recent models, continues, and the hip funess
is even more pronounced than two months ago;
in silk skirts this hip fulness is pushed up
into a charming pannier effect Particularly
attractive in this collection is an evening dress
of old-fashioned China pink. The chic little
bodice is cut very low and square below a
tiny Modesto of white orgsndy muslin What
fitting there is to this little waist is achieved
by the underarm seams, and it frankly buttons
in front Several inches below the armholes
there were narrow extensions that passed to
the back TO meet and finish in a tiny knot. The
perfectly plain skirt is pulled into panniers by
clusters of large, flat roses of three shades OF
magenta rose.
Thoroughly indorsed by every house is the
little. od-fashoned round waist with curved
and boned-yes, boned-back seams, and they
are huttoned plainly in front. This little cor
sage is marked feature OF Madame Rcbertss
collection Delightfully."- quaint is a dress OF
dark blue silk hung over a foundation skirt OF
pale brown, the frlls of which glimpse en-
ohantingly, ard touches Of the same charming
color are in the corsage ard the sleeves. The
skirt OPENS over a plain, straight tabher, and
has quite immense fitness on the side.
The Jenny collection, extraordinarily pro-
life in fresh ideas, beautifully expressed in
charming colors and elegant fabrics, is par
tculary marked by the revival Of the old.
many scanned basques. The waist is fiat and
close, with its many seams. Not tight about
The bust. it is snugy drawn in at the waist line
and Immediately below fares much fulness Of
pleats made by seam extensions that reach 10
the side fronts. Blousing effects are no longer
countenanced at the Maison Jenny. The tul-
ness is there. but it is pulled down very close
and slightly belted. Among the details is a
full skirt edged with deep iringe-a renln-
iscence OF the pretty transparency Madame
Jenny made popular two seasons ago, and
which had many fcllowers-pretty belt and
crava, effects gained by the use Of narrow rib
bon-inch and half wide-and straight plain
chokers, not transparent, but solidly built Of
the fabric Of the corsage. Wholly fascinating
is an evening cloak of quite enormous fitness
made of rich black velvet 1t is lined with white
and trimmed about the hem with an immense
ruche OF thickly plea'ed white sJk.