The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-31

I
out In the morning fussily dressed.
There's no excuse in taste for the latter
and she's conscious that in nothing she
wears Is she more fetching than In her
nsl-nishly tailored footing suit with
| It's adOrably feminine accompan iment
of dainty and immaculate blouse, neck
wear, &c
Months ago. when the covert suits
! first made their appearance THE SUN
uttered a hope that they might lead
| the way toward a renaissance Of the
severely tailored costume. II would be
a fortunate thing II Miss Walls theory
/ would take fast hold upon the imagina-
tons of the American folk who make
clothes ard the American women who
wear them.
At a popular shop on lower Broadway
/ there was this week q little showing OF
costumes meant 10 illustrate some Of
! the possibilities in domestic designed
! costumes Of the smartly plain tailored
| type. il occurred too late for sketches
/ Of the models TO be presented here to-
| day, hut the display, though not put
] forward as vastly important, was in
| some respects very interesting
! one suit OF black worsted with
4 hatrlno stripe Of white at inch intervals
was particularly successful and an eN-
ccllent commentary on the doctrine adj
Nanccd above The beautifully tailored
coat was built on one button cutaway
lines. sloping gracefully from the bust
! in an almost straight line to a poin;
bccomingly below the hip curve and
merging into a hack that rippled slightly
in the middle.
The coat was comfortably loose yet
curves at the waist line and above. Coli
lar and cuffs were plain, with Just a
note Of white in the facing. The one
luzcnge shaped wool covered button at
the bust had white centre. bordered
heavily in black.
The skirt hung smoothly over the
hips with clever arrangement Of plaits
and circular cut that gave ample fulness
without too much fare. Every lire was
good. The designer had considered the
profile as well as the front and back Ga
thing too often neglected just al this
period OF changing silhouette), and the
stripes had been handled 70 excellent
advantage. both for purposes OF trim
ming and of line.
The good looking manneQuin who
showed the suit wore with 1t a tailored
blouse Of barred dImity with high turn
down collar and clever black cravat,
rather mannish patent leather shoes
with white spats, heavy one button white
gloves with black stitching ana the
iaunticst and simplest Of small straw
hats Contrasted with. the women in
, fussy street costumes who watched her
progress around the room. the girl
looked phenomenally well groomed and
j modish.
Z Done as well as that, the severe tailor
] made is all right no matter what hap
! pens in Paris. Miss Wall. as the French
themselves would phrase it, has reason.
There was another clever tailored cos
tune In the exhibit that. though at
tracuyc. was too spectacular for or
! din. ~ wear, yet had its message. The
spectacular element was due to the fact
That q loose coat OF English red which
?, is but the hunting pink Of long usage
was combined with a skirt Of midnight
/ blue, fine twin serge Of gabardine. on
certain summer occasions this thcatri-
p, cal note would pass. but not for. NOR,
, sober wear. All Of which the designer
q doubtless understood perfectly, but dis.
regarded in order 10 make h!a point
70 and he made H.
!. The skirt, without relaxing its afr ot
j severity. was just bit draped and thC
e grace OF the broken lines was attained
y without any suggestion of business by
D the device of following, at a discreet
l distance the lines Of the modish riding
u habit skirt There was no clumsy
punching Of materia. no pronounced
uncvenness about the hem-just little
lifting of folds in the right places and
the suggestion was there.
For country or resort wear In summe;
Hkable models were shown in which
the skirts were Of white broaCclotl
OF serge or gabardne or cheviot anC
the coats in warm color, and, while In
these colorings the costumes were effec'
tive for exhibition purposes, lines ant
details recommended the same models
for plain tailored street costumes II
more conventional color.
In linen, monte cloth and silks easily
Icrumpled We're several suit and sepa
rate coat models in which the Goa
tails were. by one mode or another