Evening star., 1915-01-31

III ceived from the important
IL houses in Paris that the Feb
~ ruary dress openings will be
held as usual, beginning the 9Th of the
month.
Poiret is still busy with the army,
where, it Is said. he has been sketch
ing and making designs Of new
clothes in the long stretches of in
activity that the war reports de-
scribe In the phrase nothing spe-
cial to report" Other houses. however,
have women at their head as designers,
and the mills and dyers are sufficient IN
number to provide colors and fabrics TO
furnish ideas in clothes for the American
public.
Cheruit is already prepared with her
new models; Jenny expects to make an
unusual harvest by reason OF her nov
elites designed in her artistic new
house UP on the Champs Elysees; Beer.
who had a belated autumn opening
that succeeded very well, indeed. will
be prepared with spring models; Worth.
who had the greatest success last sea-
son during the war that he has had in
Ave years. will show his new models on
the Rue de la Paix as well as In Lon
don, presenting to the American buyers
a sympathetic ensemble of wounded
soldiers In the upper floors and gowns
in the lower floors. There probably
will be no soldiers at the moment of
the opening, but the memories of his
improvised hospital cannot fail to hang
around this sedate and aristocrattc
house where the soldiers have been
cared for by the elder Worth as in the
1870 days
Callot to Open on Time.
Callot will open on time. This house
Hov
been fearfully busy sewing garments
and rolling bandages for the hospitals.
with the help of American women. es-
pecially Mrs. Herman Harjes, the bank
ers wife, who established private
field hospital. and was also one of the
prime movers in the American ambu-
lance which was formed by many of us
in the dining room of Mrs. Myron 7:
Herrick in the first confused days of
the war.
Bernard, on the Avenue de fOpera,
has been showing winter models all
along. to the American buyers VINO
ae1os. aeS 'hs the 0Usnss' waser and Bring
new things to keep going the trade
in women's apparel that was threat
ened with sudden death through bat
tie and murder. Jouda, the talented
drapeaux": but many of these men
will be released by their governments
Belgium and France-to carry on
the industry of clothes in Paris during
the month of February. This release
is made easy because certain regi-
ments are not in active service for
weeks at a time.
One Frenchman writes. for instance,
trenches for eighty-five days without
firing a shot Evidently. France has all
the men she needs and is just hui
namely saving life. which Gen: Joffre
gained him the alteration of his SOL
diers.
Premet will also have an opening. SO
will the house of Drecoll. which pre-
pared such a wonderful collection last
August. The minor houses. such as
Bourniche, Elise Poret, Agnes. Cauet.
will also have openings on schedule
time So the only question now con-
Germs the number of buyers who will
20 across this week and do their usual
trading for models.
It Is reasonable to suppose that the
number will not be as large as usual.
but the models brought home will be
plentiful. as all the commissionaires
are going, or are already there. and
they will do the buying for dozens of
dressmakers.
Every one who thinks kindly on this
subject will realize how happy Is this
season, for this is the one year of
all that the French houses need our
trade. Why should We send hundreds
Of dressmakers over there in the fat
years to buy their ideas as expressed
in fabrics. and withhold from them
the trade in the leanest and most tragic
year France has known since the COM
mune? It wouldn't be sportsmanlike.
The importation of French ideas does
not interfere with the American trade
In women's apparel. On the contrary,
II stimulates 1t. We can add what
France creates to what we create and
thus present to women q wider choice.
And. what is more significant, we put
money, in a legitimate manner. in the
hands of those who are well nigh des-
titute-the working women of France.
Far, far better be of help in this prac-
tical way than by contributing to idle
ness in withholding trade and then
sending a dollar to foreign relief work.
Gowns That Have Arrived.
Already there are frocks in the shops