davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07
LATEST FASHION NOTES
 from the FASHION CENTERS
By MAY MANTON

IN SPITE of the cold winds and icv
 streets, there is d tendency that
 gives evidence of the fact that new season is upon us. but as matter of course, none of these costumes should he considered by the stay-at thomcs for a great many weeks to come Their real purpose IS only to indicate what we may cxrect. for assuredly thcrc is some thing lncongruous in a straw hat on cold cav, yet now and again impa- tent buyers seem unable to wait, and the fact that straws are exploited all too often seems to mean that straws arc worn. with the result that some of our nidwinter costumes are rather more remarkable than attractive NC are restless, we women. we are ever seeking the new, and it is a thousand rities that we do not make up our minds to enjoy the present without always reaching out for the future lust now there is a little uncertainty as to what is to be the accepted style for the Spring. The designers. arc discussing and con sidcring and a-c working hard and We are promised a fair number of Paris openings. There is u4qucstion- ally marked tendency toward a return of the 1850 period with its pinchcd-in waist, and full skirts, but tendencics only can be reported at tais tine. and just what will really be accepted is still problem. While un- arestionabIv the fuller skirts have come. and whenever all the designers give evidence of one dominant idea. VIC may he assured tbat that idea will prcdoninate to a certain extent at least. just how far we will surrender the comfort of straight lines is little uncertain. To be sure. the full skirts that are gathered give suggestion of the small waist whether it really exists CT rot, and there is a certain picturesque charm about summer goods made in the simple styles that so far have been choscn Muslin and ruf1les, broche effects and simplicity of cut and design. by force of nature go hand in hand All the output of cotton stuffs gives evidence of pre- pondcrdnce of hrocaded and broci c effects. and nothing could be pretticr or more quaint than the organdie; and voilcs that already arc being ex- plotted. and while to a certain extent. this tendency may be lookcd-for. it is not improbable that VIC shall have still another surprise before Spring really is determined. Paris has not heen sleeping. it has been working hard if under great strain, and just what Paris will show will not be know, for several weeks to come Q
 What we arc now offered. is correct and charming for the South, and the models that are exploited for the dainty cotton stufs can of course be reproduced in crepe de chine and in other fabrics to be suited to the colder North, but we must wait d little before Spring gan fairly be said to be established.
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

A N exceedingly handsome gown
 "A of quite different sort is made from one of the Rodier crepes with a raised flower effect in heavy threads in Napoleon blue. The skirt is perfectly straight and plain, gath cred at it's upper edge, but it Is finished at the lower edge with hem of soft crepe de chine matching the blue in shade, but the upper edge of this hem has tiny little ruching of crepe de chine. The bodice is double breasted Eton that extends just to the waist line, and it is finished with double row of medium sized buttons covered with the silk and all the seams are corded with the silk. It is exceed ingly interesting and it is exceedingly smart and attractive and also delight fully reminiscent Ii is evident that all the bolero andS Eton effects are being employed and the Eton unques- tionably IS well adapted to such ma terial as the brocaded crepes and the little boleros are put to thousand attractive uses. A tendency toward full skirts that can be made to flare is not to be overlooked, but 1t also is evident that all women are not pre-
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

of the silk could be changed and crepe de chine could be used in place of the charmeuse, and also if lace founcing is not liked and something more sim pie is needed. net can be substituted or chiffon, or indeed any other ma- terial; or, crepe de chine could be used for the over-portion of the blouse and the draped tunic over the satin. If the demand is for com mcncement frock, all white could be used, or a very charming dress could be made by the use of the new cotton crepe, or still more dainty one by using sheer cotton marQuisette over a silk foundation.
 For the r6 year size the blouse will require I5s yds. of material 27 in. wide, I 1s yds. 36 or A in. wide, and 1% yds. of lace 9 in. wide for the over portion, B yd. IS in. wide for the yoke and IS yds. for the chemisette and under sleeves if high neck is used. For the skirt and girdle will be re- quired 5 yds. of material 27 or 36 in. wide, 2I yds. A, and for the tunic, ? yds. of f1ouncing 20 in. wide, with A yd. I5 in. wide for the insets.
 r UNDOUBTEDLY many of the handsomest evening garments - of the season are made largely of lace. This one shows houncing combined with charmeuse satin. It is eminently graceful, eminently at tractive and withal eminently simple. The skirt is just plain one iii two piece style with the houncing drapeo over 1t to form a tunic and with a
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

[ HERE is a garment modelled
 after the middle ages that
 really shows that period at its test. It is graceful, it takes be- coming lines, yet is cut with a sim
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

Of the bodice are placed two narrow frllls, so arranged as to give the effect of big scallops, and also to give a suggestion of the bolero idea, while in reality the blouse is absolutely simple and plain. As a matter of course, wide girdle; accompanies this frock and disappears under the frills. l. THERE is no. combination more
 fashionable or which gives a
 smarter effect than black and white. Here is gown which is made of charmeuse satin over striped silk and which IS exceedingly interesting for many reasons The faring tunic that is arranged over the skirt to the depth of a yoke is very much liked. The blouse is made with raglan sleeves and the contrast of the materials IS singularly effective. Altogether the gown is one of unusual smartness, yet it is perfectly simple. The blouse and the skirt are joined one to the other and closed at the front, and here buttons covered with the material are used for the purpose. There are a great many ways in which the de- sign can be varied. Plain French serge or gabardine could be used with striped or with plaid, or broadcloth could be combined with velvet or with charmeuse satin if plain color is liked throughout, or plain material used in place of the black and with some color substituted for the stripe would be pretty. It is a season of combinations and fabrics are woven with that fact in view, so 1t is an easy matter to find two that will harmonize. Among the pretty materials for indoor are the new crepes, and one of these would be charming used in place of the plain black material with char mouse satin substituted for the striped silk, and if the dark color is not becoming, little chemisette could be made of white for white is generally becoming and is correct with every combination.
 K IOTHING makes a prettier conn
 IN bination than plaid wool with charmeuse satin and this gown is most attractive. The tunic flares generously and gracefully and the skirt beneath IS just narrow enough to make a good effect. The blouse is finished over the skirt in true basque
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

plicity that marks the costumes of that period. In the picture, the overdress is made of beaded net, and is worn over a plain slip, but this is a garment that can be used for a variety of materials. It would be exceedingly handsome made of
 velvet with embroidered bands or bands of fur, and 1t would be very beautiful made of faille silk, and it would also be handsome made of charmeuse satin; in fact it is equally appropriate for heavy materials and for the thinner ones, and plain net over a slip of charmeuse satin Is won-
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

IT would be hard to find a prettier
 frock than this one for young girls and for the small women, for it is exceedingly becoming to women of youthful figures as well as to the girls themselves. It is simple, it is easy to make and it is charming. In the illustration, pale pink char mouse satin is used in combination with white lace houncing and rosebud banding. There is a plain two-piece skirt with insets of houncing at the seams and there is straight hounce or tunic over it that is draped at the left side. The bodice is in Japanese style, but fitted under the arms in conformity witb the latest style and the pretty little bib portion made of lace is charming while the wide draped girdle is important this sea-
 son. As matter of course the color
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

derfully beautiful. The neck edge can be round or V-shaped, so that becoming line always can be found and the lower edge can be made straight or pointed. Beneath such tunic should be worn narrow skirt.
 For the medium size will be needed for the tunic 5 yds. of material P in. wide, 31s yds. 36, 27s yds. A, with "A yds. banding 312 in. wide, or I12 yds. 2 in. wide.
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

THE third figure shows gown of
 plaid serge with trimming of
 A velvet and vest and collar of washable satin. The satin is little simpler in effect than the usual sort. and consequently better adapted to the serge. The model is new and much liked, the faring tunic is exceed ingly smart and the raglan sleeves are found on the newest models, while the vest effect makes a really important feature of prevailing fashions. For mid winter, the materials are among the best that could be chosen, but if plain color is wanted, broadcloth would make up charmingly in this same way, or gabardine or poplin, or the tunic and the blouse could be made of broche material, with the skirt of a plain one Women who are thinking of the South and of the needs for warmer weather will like the model made from one of the silk crepes. with trimming of charmeuse satin, for crepes are exceedingly fashionable and the new ones are light in weight. The simple skirt is in two pieces, the tunic in three and is gathered at the upper edge. The blouse tells its own story. The three portions of the gown are joined by means of belt and closed at the center front.
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

but not straight, being slightly gored to give modified circular effect, and it is trimmed with two gathered ruff |, fles on the lower edge and with group of three at knee depth. and its simple little bodice is made with round neck and long sleeves, the neck being hn- ished with q turned-down frill. The sleeves are gathered and finished with ruffles that fall over the hands in
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07
NAKfHE9w

fashion. The woman who i. or the outlook for the handsome and prac- tical gown with which to begin the early spring will find it difficult 70 think of anything better than this model. Since the der-skirt can be made of lining material and over faced with the satin, only a small quantity of material will be needed. Often it will happen that the eow, which is to be rcmodellcd supplic7 material for the tunic and blouse with skirt in contrast an entirely fresh costume can be fashioned. As matter of course, the materials may be any thing that contrast well, one with the other. Plain wool over plaid or striped wool is handsome and there are great many striped serses that are not showy but are singularly beautiful in color, one of these with a blouse of satin would make an ex- ceedingly handsome gown and very serviceable one as we'll. For the chen;- sette. white is to be preferred to color. but it may also be made of faille or of satin or of organdie or of pique.
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

For the medium s;1e will be needed yds. of material 2 or ,36in. wide, 33s yds. A in. wide, for the blouse ard skirt, 5 yds. 27 in. wide, 312 yds. 2b in. wide, 5 yds. A in. wide for the sleeves, collar and tunic, and yds. of ribbon 10 in. wide for the girdle.
Arizona republican., 1915-02-07

nrccp,pr,oN or pArrrpNs v '. ~ > VI ~ sr ; s369 Gown with Long Circular Tunic. <, "A 34 to 42 bust. l. : With Long or Three Quarter Sleeves. --- ,, S4II Fancy Blouse, 34 to A bust. ! With Three Quarter or Long Sleeves. s382 Three-Piece Skirt with Tunic,
 24 to g waist.
 With Tunic Perforated for Cutaway Fronts. with High or Natural Waist .se Line. 4 S377 Gown with Deep Tunic 34 to A bust.
 With Two-Piece Skirt, Long or Three.
 Quarter Sleeves.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-24
ADVANCE MATERIALS FOR SPRING GOWNS ARE HERE
fashions Wait on the Openings Promised by Paris Dress
makers---Work of American Manufacturers and
Oesigners--- More Funess in the New Skirts

pear with variations in light weight
serge, gabardinc broadcloth. linen, Sc.
and in the black and white checks for
which popularity is once more prophc-
sled. Trig and clever little tailored
suits these are too, though more Amer
lean than French in air. and particu-
larry we'll adapted to country wear and
travel
Rather more French in character.
though stll severely tailored, are the
fitted in coats with their short naring
basqucs and their narrow belts posed
just little tight and drawn in snugly.
instead of being left loose like the high
belts that appear on some Of the
straight coats.
These fitted in coats are shown both
In ono tone worsteds and IN the checks
and the narrow belts are usually made
OF two materials. On a smart little suit
of black and white check wool, for
example, the back OF the belt is Of the
checked material thus avoiding any So
ruus cutting of the length in the back
while i'm front the narrow band and
buckle arc Of black patent leather. ON
a dark blue gahardinc--and dark blues
appear to bc as popular as cvcr-the
back Of the narrow belt il of patent
leather and the front Of white leather
harmonzing with the high white satin
collar and Hat turnbaCk cuffs Of white
satin
Most Of these coats stll sport high
collars. or ut least collars high in the
back and only slightly open In front.
the coat fronts closing high across the
chest. This has been the accepted vim
tor mode. and it may he that the
southern models have merely echoed
the winter idea and that the opening
viii give us coat fronts more adapted
To- VAIN weather comfort. but tho
fashion has been an attractive one. and
If one wears u coat at all with tailored
costume ono is likely to need chest
protection. The Norfolk has always
been popular summer model and IT,,
unless l,ft entirely open. closes high.
That the high all around close collar
in coat, bodice or blouse will prove a
popular model mode is not credible.
There has been an iusistcnt effort to
establish Il this winter. but tho average
woman has refused to accept II even in
cold weather and only a martyr on
fashions altar will adopt it for hot
weather wear. That II will be- shown
is certain. but that Il Wi, be generally
accepted is not belicvablc, and though
decollc'agc may not be 80 pronounced
In daytime frucks as it was last yclr
the collar rolling or rising more or less
high at the back of the neck and leav-
ing the throat free in front Is fairly
sure to be the accepted mode of the
summer. IS it has been of the winter.
with the Russian blouse models the
high. straight, all around collar looks
well and one secs il in some Of the
most attractive advance models Of this
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-24

warm over boiling water, when you stir
in half a pint of stfiy whipped cream
ana use at once.
Tournodus de Buuf--Cut the tournc-
dos from the tilct of beef, bat them out
lightly, sautoz, and serve garnishcd with
artichokc bottoms filled with a mush-
room PURGE. For this we'll wipe one
hair pound of mushrooms, peel them
and cut Off the stalks. Put the stalks
aud trimmings into a pan with a little
salt and freshly ground black pepper
and just enough water to float them all,
Bring this all to the boil, simmer for
twelve to fifteen minutes, then strain
through fine muslin. Now put the
trimmed mushrooms into a pan with this
liquor, rather more than half a gill of
milk, together with pinch of salt and
a dust of pepper. Bring it all well TO
the boil. u7cn let IT simmer gently for
fifteen minutes; at the end of this time
lift off the pan, let the mushrooms cool
an their own liquor. then lift them out,
draining them as you do 50 back into
the pan, dry them carefully and rub
them through sieve, using half an
ounce Of butter to work them through.
Now strain the liquor onto half a pint
Of brown sauce and stir it all over the
fire til il thickens and will coat the
spoon. Next stir in the PURGE and keep
the pan containing this in the balm
marie, or in a larger pot, three parts full
of boiling water, till wanted
Saddle Of Lamb Mettcrnich -Braise
the saddle. and when cooked lift it out
a nd nltpp IL On "A dish thep uitb n shar,,
knife remove the fillets on either side u
he bono and cut these into even sized
slices, keeping tho knife rather on the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-24

class, as in the sheer white muslin
frock that figures in the large group
on this page. Here the cachct of the
fruck depends upon the charm of
material and line and the severity OF
its detail--the tailored suggestion gain
ing piquancy from association with
the sheerness of the white stuff. The
full skirt and Russian smock arc
guiltless OF trimming beyond lines of
heavy self-oording, but this heavy
cordng well placed gives more orlGi-
nality and smartness of effect than
any amount OF elaboration. There is
clever girdlc too in gay stripes OF
blues and ycllows.
Another good model upon exactly the
Same lines, save that the smock "a
longer has an under skirt of fine linen
in a soft and lovely shade Of cool Srcel.
The smuck Is of white wolfe trimmed
at the bottom in three two inch bands
Of the green linen and the long sleeves
are trimmed in the same way; but there
! is a little narrow cluny lace let in on
| the upper line of the bands and soft
cning the fronts, shoulder lines AMI
collar.
Russian biousCS of shorter measure
and combined with fun tunics appear
| both in cottons and in silks, and tho
simple little model in blue silk which
| IS sketchcd in the central group was
| importcd this month from a famous
| French maker and was priced absurdy
high despite its dcmure simplicity. 1t
would lend itself uncommonlY well to
Iany Of the soft cottuns or silks, but Is
very smart IN taffeta fallc, This siIS
promises 10 have a decided vogue, liz"
IAN tho faillcs and the soft tdGfctas, and
/ The merchants are already showlnS
! lovely colorucs in it.
! Apropos of colors. the new impetus
! to American manufacture of textiles
| finds an echo in the diStinctvcly Amcr-
, can names attached to the new color
,ings i'm domestic silks, wuollcnS aud cot
tons We have Palm Beach sand a soft
shade of the ubiquitous sand color;
Newport tan, a few tones lighter; Rocky
, Mountain blue. a olcat, warm medium
blue which X likely to find much fayOr {,
! Gettysburg gray, &c.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-24


arc l"t custom axe constantly on 'h'
"al'h Tor something new ana inherent
ne '"hSomme should De lEht '"'orcu
ana EarhIShcd WIN Puenellcs prepared
as follows; MeE hNc ounces OF nul'er
ana WORK INT" II seven ounces "l pr'"u-
'ruI'lnS' hl"'stchhS II an WIN "p"u'
SUI oil cream or new mix III you nave
Sih""lh. MN" paste ahout III" con
S'"''h'y oil mat used Tor e'Iairs' N"rN
INTO TINS Wh"n 'ooi Two or more rEH
Soihs' a aust "t sugar salt ana coralllhc
pepper ana las'ly TWO ounces "t gratcd
fdrmeSan cheese TEST piece ny
poachihE II IN niue DolllhS STOCK
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-24
SPECIAL NOTICE

7-7'---7-7-'7-'1--7'-@'7-7-''-7'---0-7-"-7''-' =
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-24
=, ELEANOR uo,r nn,iNEnD.

~ rlTu tho holidays left behind and
N tine Southern season on Ncw
w Works winter seems to be
travelling the downward slope.
ron, &. within sight, the shops are gay
,.,h lrn, hucd cottons and silks, daffo-
5Is are ,uloom in the florists windows.
somewhere spring is whistling and
dancing her vtv northward. and already
8, men arc making ready for her coming.
II, boo -u,c. We are Sti,l wearing vel
,o,sanJ frs. IL We arc lucky enough to
,c, velvet and fur and we are likely
r., vclr ilDm for many weeks to come;
.ut u ..ut humanity possible To be
neatly Interested IN them. Even wcere
.cy appeal olWlusly from bargain
counters women pass them by 20 finger
,rfo-o ;.o now musins ana summer
six. and linens. Che advance models in
,ro.b. aud suits. the flower trimmed
uus ~ straw.
Uul,-. ono is southern bound it IS
o.U to coutcu, oneself with looking at
..os, advance models There are among
ZEN many SURE 90 bc fairly satieiactuyy
throughout the spring and summer. and
.. is quito possible to plan simple linen
and muslin fruckS that the twiXt sca-
sons scamstre-s can make and tina. will
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-24

he reasonably modish all thruu-h theI
,om,ns season. but the fact remains
tha Paris has not had her innings, and
'5olsh kingdoms fal! Paris intends TO
AYE her innings.
Enough ot the famous couturict.s nave
"auucd openings to insure a Loudiy
lyNnS Of clover models, and Enough,
haa been said before in THE SU&, the
mutations in materials must handicap
the genius of the designers TO n certain
eSt'nt this very limitation may bring
oIt even more than the usual originality
3" Line and detail. \ few late season
and advance models have filtered through
The Custom House within the past
month. but not until the openings IN
!aris aru past and the results can he
mined MP will the question Of the lines
and features that are to prevail IN dress
curing sprng and summer be definitely
understood.
Even then there will be chance for
much modification and adjustment,
Noteoric successes will live their short
DAY aud die OF their own popularity.
Women having seen what the dress
makers want them To wear will de-
'.de what they want To wear but I'M
u. Nc see what is offered our fashion
IDEAS are u solution and not all the
sNiiu. effort, Of American designers 20
Wropllate those ideas VIII move Us
-reauy.
|, sens to bc on the cards that there
VII. ID" rather more than the usual
divergence between the showings Of the
''ron- French houses. Empire. 1880
i''o Russian, Oriental and crossbrecd
modes of innumcrablc types are in
inc running and advance models have
'oqueticd with all Of these influences.
That there is to be more fulness
N The skirts is q thing decided: yet
many OF the best houses appear to
favor conservative measures in this re-
Eard, and some Of tho smartest skirts,
though ample enough for freedom, flare
not Al ai
Iuon there is that matter Of the
tun.r H., obituary was written long
'so out certain of the newest models
rom authoritative sources naunt tunics
Nnponrcrncdly as though the poor
,'.nS- mad never died at all.
And II We are tp bc nippcd i'm at the
"'i'illnc--Wcll, there are uncommony
cd looking new coats and bodices
'nal viii not do it for Ms.
" '''' Nlbl' u rs Wise NOT 10 lllnEt
''. ION, IL is best to wait until there
'. been opportunity to see and COM
pare all the new models and to note
which way the favor of tho best judges
~ no. Tho waiting viii not be long
'nl 30 tho meantime there is amusc-
''.n' lu studying the avant COurers
'"' 10 guessing at their significance. In
meantime too ono can safely OK
'"'W"nt with few inexpensive spring
'.H summer frockS. sure to prove usc-
'' II not the very latest word in the
seasons fashions.
Too Russian blouse, the bOlcro and The
' ."nstn coat. either straight or bcltod
".1"r snuSly JUST above the uatura
waist limo ana narlnS very considerably
'F.r 'n" hips. arc tho suit coats most
emphasized by domestic manufacturers
anu featured most often in the latest
imported models. Tho long suit Goa
"'r los, prestige oven during the winter
.1 naturally, with a spring season
..'ad, its popularity Is more than cvcl
..holy TO wane.
Tb' straight little hin length models
''' or without high placed belts, tina
'-'n been so much liked in covert, ap