Omaha daily bee., 1915-10-19

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In planning a wardrobe for The fall
and winter a woman must take fore
thought OF her social and professional
activities, which call for garments Of
varied types. all OF which must be smart
in appearance, practical to a certain de-
gree and convey a suggestion OF her per
sonality.
Although the majority of the foreign
modes, upon which American adaptations
have been built, incline TO favor youth
full figures, the middle-age1 woman has
not been neglected II IL not that her
condition OF being fair, fat ana 40 is en-
phasized in the garment build for her,
but rather that the lines associated with
eternal 20 have been sufficiently modified
for her service and that In their adapta-
ton she may look her best without eny
Of the pathos and foolishness sometimes
Incorporated in young looking garments
worn by youth-forsaken women.
The straight lines Of the skirt are be-
coming alike to old and young, to the
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thing OF q consolation to know that a
few Of the high class houses insist on re-
tanning comparatively narrow skirts, not
so much for the sake Of the skirt ap-
pearance. but rather to accentuate the
extreme flare of the coat line. Even a
woman who must acknowledge the pos
session of hips may wear such a model
Then, too, the arrangement OF the
trimming on many of the suits and
dresses is such that will appeal to wo-
mankind in general There are bretelles,
epaulettes, narrow girdles and vestees, all
contributing length OF line and by
using contrasting trimming. adding a
note Of decoration to the garment
/ trimmed.
| There is, however. one type of dress
that only the young girl may adopt
That is the model and its several variants
projected by Callot. Jenny and Cheruit.
It has to do with an astonishing wide
skirt and close fitting bodice whose
severity of line is mitlgated only by
the lucious and extravagant fabrics used
In the development OF the model.
One such gown. for instance. Is made
gathered at the top and bordered from
knee to hem with bias bands OF black
grosgrain silk The skirt itself is shaped
upward toward the sides and drops q
little at the beck. 1t is fully six yards
through the hem.
1 The attached bodice shows an old-timt
scanned back. a dart front and buttons
that fasten the garment from waist al.
most to the throat line. At that point 4
is cut off squarely. the upper edges meet
ing the ends Of a round collar Of cream
eolored maline over rep silk. the malin'
being bordered with two rows OF narrow
plated lace. The sleeves are wrist length
and close-fitting, and by way Of emPha
sizing the return TO sO-called feminin,
figure lines. there Is a patent leather bel
that appears to draw in the waist.
: Black. by the way. gives promise OF Z
splendid vogue for evening things. II Il
employed in maline. velvet. satin
spangled nets and furs for ali manne
Of formal garments. After black. per
haps one may say that pink Is preferred
II Is the color OF youth and in the new
velvets and satins IL has delightful two
I tone effect that is quite irresistible.
One calls 20 mind dance frock Of pin
. chiffon velvet that Is an exponent OF
graceful ensemble induced by wonder
: fully simple lines. The skirt IL caught u
on one side against the left hip. some