davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
Late Market Quotations

chiea go Estimated for Tomorrow
furnished By Long Commission Co.
zoz12 Main Telephone No. 1901
Hogs, 5000: cattle, 5000: sheep.
1900: wheat. 90: corn. 2lo: oats, 49,
Liyerpool Close.
wheat. unchanged to y lower;
corn, unchanged to y higher: oats,
unchanged
Wheat and -four. 7Ss 300: corn, T.
600; oats, $1,000.
Northwest Whea. Receipts
Minneapolis, 74s cars: Duluth. COS
cars; Winnipeg. 1.s41 cars
Chicago Cash Grain.
CHICAGO, Nov. 24.-Wheat-No. 3
red. s1-eoG1- os&, No hard, 81. OF
q .o3: No. spring. s361-02
Con-No 8 yellow. 641ac; No,
yellow, s3A s4c; No. yellow, 6o1s
665c: No 6 yellow. 5ezc; No.
white, s2gsehc; No 3 mixed. e3A q
SIC; No. mixed. 81 y @G2hc; No. 8
mixed, 5eds1c; No. mixed, $50 Coo
oats-No. white, 3sA q ssc; No I
white. ssG SIC; Standard, 39A G4ee
Peoria Grain.
PEORIA. Ill, Nov. 24-Corn-Afar-
ket Ia DC higher No. white, 63iac;
No. white, &c; No. white, 6e1.c;:
No. yellow, CSC; No. 4 yellow, 81 Y
465kc; No. yellow. 5sA 960Ac;
No. mixed, 5sA G5sEc.
Oats-Market &c higher. No 8
white, CSC bid; No. 4 white, 35Ac-
Kansas City Cash Grain.
Furnished by Long Commission CO.,
402ia Main. Telephone No. 1901
KANSAS CITY, Nov. 24--Wheat-
No. 2 hard. sLo591.06; No. 8 hard.
new, 9eLkc9s1.01; No. 4 hard. new.
so6s5c; No. 2 red, new, s11o: No. 8
red, new, s74 s9c; No. red, new, 80
@s7c.
Corn-No. 2, s21sc; No. 8. Sig
61tac; No. 4, so96011sc No. 3 yellow,
&C; No. 4 yellow, coz 961c; No 2
white, e29621zc; No. 8 white, Sic:
No. 4 white. 609 5000.
Oats-No. 2. 3sA 63sAc: No. 3, 81
637iec: No white. 51a1361sc:
No white. Bah 9ssc; No. 4 white,
s49351ec.
ST. Louis Cash Grain.
Furnished by Long Commission Co,
ST. LOUIS, Mo-, Nov. 24.-Wheat-
No. red, new. 1.1391.15; No. 3 red.
new, s1.06g1.10; No 2 hard. odd,
S1.04.
Corn-No 2. e4c; No. 3. 531ac: No.
8 yellow, 641zc; No. white. SIC; No.
3 white. 6sgs3xc
oats-No. 2, 3e@3shc: No 3,
35hc; No. white, 361s 93Ic; No 4
white, 36937c.
Chicago Live Stock.
CHICAGO, Nov. 24--Hog receipts
1900; market SC lower. Mixed and
butchers, s5.ao9S.s0: good heavy.
s5.95G6.s0; rough heavy. s6.15G63
light, s5.6596.55; pigs, S3.7595.7o.
Cattle receipts 10000; market
steady, weak. Beeves. $3.50 q 1030;
COWS and heifers, s2.709s.0o; Texans.
s6.1597.00; calves, $6.0o49.T.; west
erns, s6-200s.30.
Sheep receipts 10000; market
strong, 1Oc higher. Native. $1,000
$50; western, S6.10@6.60; lambs.
s7.251s.30; western, s7.40G9.35.
Chicago Live Stock-Ciose.
CHICAGO. Nov 24--FIog rece Dts
44,cc0; mac-et shade higher to sc
lower Mired and butchers, s. Ju@
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

$50; good heavy. s515g6-s5; rough
heavy. s6.15Gs-35; light, $5.6546.50.
Cattle receipts 5000: market slow
to weak: top 5000
Sheep receipts 5000; market
strong. Zoe higher. top $3.50. Lambs.
top $3.50.
St. Louis Live Stock
EAST ST LOUIS, Nov. 24.-Cattl7
receipts 1890: market steady. Texas
receipts 500: native beef steers. $3.50
@19.20; ysariing steers and heife-s,
SS.5061o.2O; COWS, s5.506T.oo; stock
ers and feeders, sT.o0G7-e5; calves,
sso091o.50: Texas steers, $3.50
$50: cows and heifers, s4-o09s.bo.
Hog receipts 1000; market 1oc
higher. Mixed and butchers. $s.45G
s.s5: good TO heavy, ss.so9s.so;
bulk. s6.4566.so; pigs, ss.oo97.25.
Sheep receipts 1900; market
steady. Sheep and ewes, $5.5o0s.25;
lambs. sS-2569.15: yearlinss. $500
$50.
Kansas City Live Stock.
KANSAS CITY, Nov. 2s--Cattle re-
ceipts 5000; market steady. Steers.
s5.5o99.s5; cows and heifers. $4,000
CTS; stockers and feeders, $500
IT'S; calves. se.0o9s.T5.
Hog receipts 5000: market strong.
109l5c higher. Bulk, s6.4o96.65;
heavy, s6-50@6.To; medium, $6.409
6.75; light, ss.3o@6.65.
Sheep receipts 5000; market loo
higher Lambs, ss.40Gs.s0; ewes,
s5.0095.75; wethers, $4.259S.25.
rh;.,.n orad,,e>
CHICAGO, Nov. 24-Butter-Ex-
tras, Sic; frsts. soc; dairy extras, 26
929c: dairy hrsts, 230Ac.
Eggs-Firsts. 2sk 02e,ic: ordinary
firsts. 261a@27hc-
Cheese-Twins, 15A 9151Ac; Youn
Cheese-Twins. 15A 816hc: Young
Americas, 16@16hc.
Live poultry-Fowls, 81 Ole;
ducks. 1O@13hc; geese, 10013c:
spring chickens, 12c; turkeys. log
1Sc.
Potatoes-Receipts 80 cars: Mime.
sofas. 55@60c per bu.; Wisconsins, so |
@60c per bu.a S-sfcoE
Chicago Seed Market.
CHICAGO, Nov. 23.-Rye-No. 2, |
nominal; No. 8, 94c.
Barley-566ssc.q
Timothy-s5.00Gs.o0.
Clover-s1o.o0@1so0
st. Louis Hay.
ST. LOUIS. Mo-. Nov 23.-Market |
strong on high grade. y Receipts at /
st. Louis, IA cars; at East St Louis. 8 /
cars: choice timothy, $500; No. l
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
Society Is Wrong.

There is something radically
wrong with society when it can't get
on without the Introduction of those
innovations which are morally demon
alizing. Society in Keokuk is crazy
over the dance and the social card
party. But the dance parties are see
Iiect Yea, but many gee more than
they ought to zee at these times and
places. / hear someone saying, 'Stef-
fey, you are not modest Listen, I'm
too modest TO hug another mans wife,
or his daughter or sister, even IL it
ts done to music.
Naaman, the man, was a great
man. man held In high esteem; he
was honorable, promoted to the high
est trust, captain of the host Of the
king of Syria ne was mighty man
Of yalour, in word, he had every
qualification for an able general, but
he was a 1eper.' But. That little
word, how significant IL is. We should
all be happy, but for something. The
sinner would be happy, but for his
sins, and these sins, like the leprosy
Of Naannan, are at once painful, IN
slightly, disgusting, and a disgrace.
''Naaman questioned the method
for his cleansing, and we
FAY how foolish was hen But the
sinner acts even more foolishly when
he questions the method for his sal
walton. Sinner, the cure for your lep-
ROXY is ,sinnple-'geIieve on the Lord
Jesus Chrfst, and thou shalt be saved
Jesus lie the only cure. There is none
other name under heaven given
among men whereby we must be
saved! Don't question the remedy.
Place yourself in His hands
Tonight the sermon subject will be
Choice and Decision" Services at
1880 o'clock
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

The Weather Year ago Today.
Fair. Temperature, High So, Low 3s'
Remember Laxative Brono Quinine
cures a cold in one day. There is
only one "Brorno Quinine" Look for
signature r. w. GROVE. CSC.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

Timothy. $500 17.5o; No , t,r,.,
S12 COG 1850; No. timothy. se@o3
Hoo. ''o
New York Produce,
NEW YORK, Nov. 24.-Nour M,
kee dulI, unchanged. -
Pork market firnsr. Mess, sl7n
1900. 800
Lard market stronger. Midi. We
spot, se.4oGe.50.
Sugar. raw, market firm. ceptrs.
gal test, s4.T7; Muscarsdo s9ts,
500.
Sugar, refined. market firm g,
Loaf, $3.50: crushed, $3.50; powdered
$40; graduated, se.o096.o5.
Coffee Rio No. on spot. TIC.
Tallow market quiet. City, Ixd
country, 7GTjzc; special, Sc.
Hay market firm. Prime, 81 80. "
3, s1.o591.1o; clover, sl.05sl2o.
Dressed poultry market ir7egula
Chickens, 1sG30c; turkeys, l5asd
fowls, 1291T1ac: ducks. 13G1gc.
Live poultry market unsettIe
Geese, 14915c; ducks, l5717c; fowl
1914 915hc; turkeys, 12914c; roos
ers. 11k@13Ac; chickens, 1870
Cheese market firm. State mil
common to specials. 121s 9l6c; skin
common to specials, s01S&c
Butter market firm. Receipts 4,esS
Creamery extras, 53c; dairy tubs,
131c; imitation creamery hrsts, cs1
a4c.
Egg market firmer. Receipts 5,7;C
Nearby white fancy. soG63c; nearh
mixed fancy. 3s@45c; fresh, 3594i&
New York Money Market.
NEW YORK, Nov. 24-Money y
call, 1A percent
Six months. az percent
Mercantile paper, percent,
Bar silver London, 26kd.
Bar silver New York, SIZE
Demand sterling, s4.69S G4ss LII
Horses and Mules.
ST. LOUIS, Mo-. Nov. 23.-Horses
Heavy draft, extra $500. .s1S5G24
Heavy draft, choice-good. 14O9ld
Eastern chunks. ex. quail. -. 14oGla
Eastern chunks, plain 1890. 75Gll
Southern horses, ex. quail. :. 7oq1a
Southern horses, plain 49,. 400
Choice drivers. with speed. lOG23
1O0G21
Plugs ....... SCI
Mules-Although the demand was
little weak, there was steady ma
ket for good. fat cotton mules an
miners. and big draft mules ioun
fairly satisfactory outlet.
- Sl3onlV
- - 1s1E bsnds .. 1O0Tl4
I ~ III hands .. 65G1
- ~ All hands ... 45a
Plugs .... 259
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

destroyed In the vicinity Of soiante
by a mine explosion.
"a German attempt to capture one
Of our posts, was repulsed in the vos-
ges, i'm the vicinity Of CalIes-sur.
PIanns," the statement says.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
What Mloht Have Been

Marshalltown Tlmes-Tribune' o,sa
near I,eMars a farm sold .ne an|
dav for s212.5o an acre. ana ; !C ID
I could have bought that pia nal
s15 an acre long after we "e''
ried. Tough, isn't It!
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
There with the Dreams.

narghaIItovn Times Republican:
Wasn't the first Leigh Hunt a poet?
And hasn't the second one fine
working gix-cyIinder Imagination?
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

OF lot !, block 5, city OF Keo-
kuk LAB II
Work to begin on or before the Isl
day of April, 1916, and to be fully
com pleted on or before the list day o.
Hay, 1916.
So much of the cost of the construc
ton OF the said improvement as is by
Law assessable against abutting prop
ert-. TO be assessed against the pri
yately owned property abutting on
said Improvement, in accordance with
the law governing the same, and pay
rneDr to the amount OF such assess
rnent for such work will be made In
assessment certificates, bearing inter.
est at the rate Of six percent per an,
nun issued in accordance with law,
the city to incur no liability other
than the duty to make the special as
sessment above referred to and issue
assessment certificates to the con-
tractor therefor. Said assessment GER
t,ficates shall be accepted by the con-
tractor in full payment for all work
done under his contract without re-
course on the city OF Keokuk.
Each bid must be accompanied with
a certified check, in separate envei-
one sa.d check TO be drawn on some
known responsible bank, and made
navable to the order OF the City Treas
urer OF the City OF Keokuk, in the
sum of two hundred $4,000 dollars.
Eacf, envelope must be addressed TO
the rfty of Keokuk and endorsed with
the name OF the bidder and the I'M
nrovenent such check and proposal
are for Certified checks accompany
inc nroposals will be returned to the
bidders when the con-
tract has been awarded, and also to
tho bidder to whom the contract Is
awarded when he shall have entered
into contract for the construction OF
said Improvement with the City OF
Keokt1k and given bond in the sum OF
nine hundred $4,000 dollars. with
suretiss to be approved by the City
Council of the City OF Keokuk, for the
faithful performance OF his contract.
Tho contract will contain a provision
that the contractor shall guarantee
the Improvement to remain In good
repair for the period Of two years from
ana after the date of its acceptance
bv the CITY Council. and the bond will
contain a like condition.
In case the successful bidder shall
fail to enter into contract with the
civ of Keokuk for the construction of
said Improvement or furnish bond as
herein required, and as required by
law, the certified check deposited by
him with his bid shall be forfeited to
the city OF Keokuk as agree and liqui-
dated damages.
The right is reserved to reject any
and all bids.
The proposals received will be
acted upon by the City Council OF the
Citv Of Keokuk on the Goth day Of No
vernber. 1915.
Published by authority Of the City
Cornell of the City OF Keokuk
o. w. SANDBERG.
City Clerk of Said City.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

at three O'Clock FOR an interview. but
would have nothing to say"
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
GOVERNOR CLARKE
Is AGAINST WAR
Created Surprise When He Takes
Stand Against Preparedness
s-.---- Stann pcde.

MUSCATEE, Iowa, Eov. 24.-Gov-
ernOr Clarke IN Unequivocal terms al
tackled the noyeyn eDt toward prepar.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
Something 10 Wrong With II When
worsen Gamble Al Card 5arsieA
Preacher Declares IN
Sermon.
HITS NEW DANCES, TOO
Rev. s1ersy Claims Playing fer
Prizes AZ Bridge, and Bowling
for Turkeys. is Form IF
Gambling

In the services last evening in the
revival at the First Methodist Pro
tssrant church, the pastor, Rev Stst-
fey. delivered one Of The strongest
sermons Of the series, On national
city, society. and individual Ieprosy-
He STATED: The ranking carker
upon or political life, as nation. Is
or Tore OF money II is this that
stands behind and makes possible the
existence OF the liquor traffic. and our
system Of graft These problems chal-
lsuge the attention OF ever patriot
particularly II he prays. Thy kingdom
come. thy viii be done in earth rs II
IS IN heaven No christian can vote
for the saloon, and I'd prefer charges
against member Of this church If
knew he voted for the saloon and I'd
hare hin accommodated
This city with its beautiful seen
cry, miles Of paved streets. beautiful
public buildings, residences, and its
business houses is a delightful place
TO live. But II Is leprous- II has
gambling, dsns Of vice, and there is
not week passes but that the Lords
day is desecrated- Wherever there is
card playing there is gam bling And
the society clubs that sit down and
play for trophy representing SO
much money are gambling Just as
much az the gambler. IN the garret
Of some old building Who are play
ing poker for money. II you don't
believe there is gambling going on In
ksokuk, go down Main street and
look in al the windows OF the shoot
ing galleries, and the bowling alley.
For what Il that poultry n the win
dow Some man who plays the game
wins # The merchant has just as
good right TO sell groceries and dry
goods on Sunday as does the man who
runs a cigar store to sell cigars
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

Read what Duffy's did for MIR. James
Kilroy,
Last winter l had stomach trouble
30 bad that al | could eat was milk
toast for two months straight. tried
all kinds of medicines and they all failed
10 do me any good. | went to several
doctors, but got no results, until was
advised to get dollar bottle of Dufy's
Pure Malt Whiskcy. After using one
bottle / found great relief and got so
could cat hearty meal of meat, pota-
toes, bread and tea, and now, believe
me, / would not be without bottle OF
Duffy's in the house. Since using II
have gained many pounds. Before I
weighed but 125 pounds and today I
weigh 154, am strong as bull and do a
hard days work. want to say that l
owe all my thanks to Duffy's Pure Malt
Whiskey. and want the world to know
what It has done for ne-it's wonder
ful medicine. "-(Signed) Janes ]. Kilroy.
1E52 Larrabee St, Chicago, Ill.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
NOTICE TO CONTRACTORS.

SSElS1 Proposals Will Dc ESle-SSQ
by the City Clerk OF the City OF Keo-
kuk, az his Office In Keokuk, until 6
O'Clock .. m, on the 2sth day OF No
vsnbeT, 1915. for the construction OF
the following described Improvement,
ss Per plans and specifications now on
file N the Office of the said clerk
approximately 3.4S5.s feet OF per-
manent cement sidewalks. in the City
OF Keokuk, particularly described as
follows, to-wtr:
Cement sidewalk Is feet wide
IN front OF lot 4, block 5, city 50 II.
Cement sidewalks feet wide in
front Of the following described lots,
ro-wit:
Lots and s, block 9, Revees,
Perry & Williams addition. 100 II
LOIS I, 2, 3, 4. and 6, block
addition .............. 900 #.
Lot 5, and east Eve feet OF lot
s block 8. Kiibourne's add. So It.
South 10 feet of north 20 feet,
of east % feet, lot 5, block
~, Kilbournes' addition. 10 IT.
addition ......... $50 #.
Lot 1. block q. Estes addition so It.
Lot y, block 80, city, except
rear as "a It front y ..116.s #.
Lots II, u, IS. IA, 16, II. Is,
1e, 20. II. ~, AZ. ~. As, IS,
II. 4s, AZ. 50. 81 and 50, Rah-
dall's addition 1907 It,
Lots I, 2, 3 and g. block p.
CITY wv -.
Cement sidewalks alongside OF the
following described lots, to-wit:
Lot II, block 13, Kilbourne' adj
dttIon ..............1 40 It.
Lot 4, Randall's subdivision OF
outlot No OF RandalPs Ad. 1le It.
Rear so feet. lot II, block 156.
Tot block 152. city... 40 IT.
Lot 6, block 9. R., P. & W. Add. 40 Il.
Lot s. block 13 R., p & W. Add. 40 It.
Lot e, block 81. Leighton's Add. 40 IT.
Lot 7. block 70, city Of Keoknk lao It.
Lot 6, block 50, city OF Keokuk lao 1t.
Lot - block 157, city OF Keo-
KUN 1Aoft.
Gem eat sidewalk feet wide
aIorpefde NJ the front / As feet
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

St. Louis Hay.
ST. LOUIS. Mo-, Nov. 23.-Market
strong on high grade. Y Receipts at
ST Louis. IA cars; at East St. Louis.
cars: choice timothy, $500; No.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24
FRANCE

CONTINUED from page H.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

Chicago Seed Market.
CHICAGO, Nov. 23.-Rye-No.
nominal; No. 8, 94c
Barley-566ssc.f
Timothy-s5.00Gs.00
Clover-s10.00 I19OO.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1915-11-24

MuIes-Although the demand was
little weak, there was steady ma|
ket for good. fat cotton mules an
miners. and big draft mules ioun
fairly satisfactory outlet
Evening star., 1915-05-02
PUMP OF 1915 CLINGS
TENACIOUSLY TO FOOT

R HERE is one pleasant thing about
u the pump of this spring of 1915.
If the foot is once persuaded to squeeze
through the narrow ankle opening, it
is likely to stay in place.
Yes. the pump of 1915 clings tena-
ciously to the foot, for the reason
that it is built well up over the heel
and the instep- 1t is no longer the
low-cut pump that is cut out almost
to the toes. 1t fits smoothly and snug
Iy we'll over the instep and holds itself
in place.
And really this new pump is not SO
solutely essential. But then even a
pump cut out over the instep ought
always to be adjusted with the help
of a shoehorn And as for toe room,
there is as much of that i'll these new
pumps as there is in any of the sea-
sons Shoes Although they are all cut
on an apparently narrow last they are
quite comfortable.
MANY inexpensive little shoehorns
are sold, and one might well invest IN
several of these, SO that one Will al
Ways be on hand. Some with handles
that are shoe buttoners are sold III
little leather cases. The handles fold
shut and SO make the shoe horn very
small and compact The cheapest of
these costs less than cents. II is small
enough so that it could be easily car
ried in the handbag.
Evening star., 1915-05-02
Glove Cleaning Day.

ut is poor economy to buy chea
gloves They soon lose Their shape,
and nothing looks more. ta~dry than
ugly gloves. Never put gloves on the
hand when cleaning them with Saso-
line. The friction has been known 10
ignite gasoline. To clean white and deli
cate colored kid gloves, dip cloth in
gasoline and then in prepared chalk, and
with this rub tho soiled places on the
gloves. Repeat until they are thoroughly
clean and you will never again use the old
method of putting them on your hands
and then dipping them in the hulo.
Use in the open air.
soiled may be cleaned with mixture
of finely powdered fuller's earth and
alum. This should be well rubbed in
with a clean piece of flannel, and then
thoroughly brushed off with a soft
clean brush. Whenever black kid
gloves become rubbed or scuffed. or
begin to show a little white, squeeze
little black oil paint on the place
rub it well, and the gloves will be IKE
new Ink mixed with the white or an
egg will also renew black kid gloves
Assemble all your gloves and nave d
mending day. Always mend with cot
ton. as silk cuts leather. Every woman
who has had the delightful task OF
nending torn gloves knows that the
stitches often pull out very quickly.
This dificulty may be obviated by but
tonholinH around the edge of the torn
part before drawing the edges To-
gether
Evening star., 1915-05-02
FANCY GINGHAMS,

TT HE new ginghams are great favor
ties for children's dresses. Plaids
predominant. While the decided blue
and white and the red and white ara
in evidence. black and white Ia very
popular. partly due to the fact that
this plaid launders well and is a dressy
comhinati tion.
striking dress is made Of fns
striped gingham. in combination of
straight and bias widths Not a partt-
Gle of trimming is used other than the
goods itself. The circular yoke of the
skirt reaches just below the hips, and
is made of the material cut bias. a
seam in the front of the yoke bring
ing the stripes together within q point.
from which they extend downward and
toward the back. The flounce Is made
of the goods cut straight. plated and
Joined to the yoke with a tucklike ef-
feet. The waist is made with a round
yoke. with a seam in the center, at
which the stripes meet, with the same
pointed effect as on the yoke of the
skirt. The wide front plait of the
waist is cut straight and the body of
the waist is on the bias. The upper
part of the sleeves is cut straight, with
cross-grained cuff about four inches
long. Altogether the dress is a charm
pay the evident care which is required
to make it.
Many women will like to know how
to cut a shirt waist from a small guam
tity of gingham or other printed ma
terial- Take the length required for
the front, and cut it down the center.
Add box-plait to one side of each
st-ip and insert vest of pique or any
other white goods you may have on
hand. Buttons sewed through both
plait and vest will hold the right side
in place, and the joining will be under
the left plait. The strip for box-plaits
can usually be taken of the widths
used for sleeves. Another way to save
ma terial is to take two widths for the
fronts. cutting the backs from what Ia
left and piecing them under what
seems to be a panel. with a half-inch
tuck on each side. This panel strength
ems the back of the waist. and is es-
pecialIy becoming to a stout or short
waiSted figure.
Evening star., 1915-05-02

at the hem, gives one even more nope
for successful alteration.
Pleating is in high demand and the
knife-pleated tunic. therefore. which
was considered as an unfa shiona BILE
garment, can be made into skirt by
the addition of deep band. 1t may be
of satin if the skirt is of cloth, or cloth
if the skirt is of silk. No one objects
to these combinations nowadays.
Then there is the question of the long
sleeve to he answered. Suppose the
gowns of last year, also the coats, had
three-auarter sleeves-what then? For
tunately, fashion has brought about the
use of double sleeves. The upper part
is opaque the lower part, transparent:
therefore one can add chiffon or mus
lin net or lace to n short sleeve and
bring it down to the wrist These low
er sleeves are very often full as well as
transpa rent and they are finished at
the wrist with a velvet bracelet and a
narrow ruff1e. All these details are
good to remember when you are up
against the task of altering sleeves.
1t is not a particularly helpful fact in
fashion that hip yokes. as welt as
shoulder yokeS are acceptable, Tor the
reason that skirts are SO short that no
one needs a suggestion as to how to
lensthen them. The task of shortening
them is easy If by chance skirt
needs an extra depth of three or fve
inches remember the hip yoke and use
it instead of band at the hem unless
it is question of matching the fabric.