davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1915-09-12

has something to do with the fact
that most sensible women are genu-
inely disturbed when they have to give
up vast deal of time and thought to
the choosing and alteration of clothes
Each of the women who are regard
ing the prospect of buying new clothes
for the autumn is far more concerned
part OF the costume, unless it be the
high-crowned hat. which is really a
nerve-racking knot for the woman
with long face to unravel.
If skirts are full, the women ask,
just how full should they be? What is
the dividing line between beauty and
ugliness. between extreme and moder-
ate fashion? In other words, at just
stop and still be in the picture of the
moment. So far the answer to these
questions has been somewhat vague.
They are of the same character as an
answer received by cable the other day
from some one in Paris who was asked,
also by cable. to tell of the dominant
fashion condition. Her answer was:
''Busts no higher. waists no smaller"
Unconsciously, the sender Of this
cable provided enough amusement in a
large Office on hot day to take off
the edge Of heat irritation Even the
one who paid for the two cables
thought the money well spent. for
sheer entertainment sake 1t was
comedy in a theater cooled by ice.
The truth concerning skirts is that
many varieties are offered no wom-
an need actually worry. Even the full
tunic is admitted. True, the skirt be-
meath the tunic is not as narrow as 1t
was last November. when Jenny and
Callot flooded the country with skirts
that had narrow line about the an
kes, but A sharp contrast IS still made
between the tunic and the lower skirt
Both cut circular. and each is
fitted at the hips, for the umbrella
shape rules on majority of the
gowns. When this wide. circular cut
is thoroughly understood and well
managed 1t is far prettier than the
skirt which is full at the waist and
narrow at the ankles. This was the
most trying model that has been ex-
Evening star., 1915-09-12

hips, falls Imply around the ankles.
its fullness folding up on itself. and
with hem sometimes irregular and
sometimes even.
There is no struggle to keep the full
ness from falling in front of the knees:
for that idea of squaring off the front
Of the gown and putting the fullness
at the side is evidently put back on
the shelves with last years fashions.
1t was never attractive, but it was
tolerated and accepted because 1t was
one Of the ways out Of a serious sar-
torial disaster.
The idea Of cutting the hem into
points was strongly indorsed by the
French designers during the last year,
but 1t was overpopularized in America
this summer and it is probable that the
majority of wome mare tired of it. All
the cheap ready-made frocks have been
as ragged and uneven at the edge as il
they were worn by an American Indian,
and this raggedness does not form a
suitable frame for any kind Of feet and
ankles except the excessively pretty
one, which American women are more
apt to possess than any others, for
whatever our other anatomical defects
we are very sure Of the superiority of
our feet. 1t Is not due to our shoes.
Lovely feet and ankles are our racial
characteristics.
brought about the faring coat. cut off
below the hips, which is marked out
front and back by an unusual number
of seams. This is an exceedingly be-
coming method of making jacket for
woman who is not slim and who can
Evening star., 1915-09-12

! ed, and the general cut is quite man
! nish except in dressy blouses.
| Many separate skirts are pleated.
| with tailored belts. Three-tiered mod :
| els in dressy skirts are shirred where
! the fullness appears at the sides and
| back only.
Evening gowns are of net, brocaded
weaves, tinsel broche. beaded effects.
STYLES. The bodices are extremely
simple and skirts full shirring is
much used. as the fullness must be
heid In IN some manner. and this
treatment is best for silk and satin,
The formal evening dress is sleeve
LEGS and very decoliete. both front and
back. A favorite shoulder strap is a
string Of rhinestones or jet
Gable cords are used to hold out
skirts at the hem. giving almost a
crinoline effect. Young girls like This
style for dancing frocks. The wide
girdle that almost forms the bodice is
still a favorite.
The rofiies OF the newest beruf1ed
i skirts extend in close succession from
waist line 10 hem, but in the back only.
Ihey are direct Introduction 70 the
coming hustle modes
Suit coat lengths are more varied
than FOR many seasons past. Some are
to the waist line only, others hin
length and long redingote STYLES Sep,
arate coats are long, almost covering
the gown beneath
Bet"een-season hats are interesting.
one or navy blue taffeta, somewhat
elongated toque. Is trimmed directly in
ta1a 'ie fea,ber cluster ter, short curled
back by a somewhat higher cluster
curled into the form of question
mark. The new hat models are de-
cidedly large or decidedly small.
Evening star., 1915-09-12
Ribbon Fancies.

ID ANDINGs from two to three inches
" wide are in heavy corduroy cords.
Gros de Londres, poplin cords and striped
landings Of every national combination
and faille. These landings are seen on
the first fall hats of semi-tailored style
as band and small bow of made orna-
>ment. The tailored style of hat does
not need large bows, but this class of
hat is not dressy. and a different hat
will require wide moire, satin or faille
bows. especially in combination with
ostrich feathers. Some ribbons have
threads of gilt at the edge. others a
pfcot edge, or contrasting stripe,
usually black or white. or in the ma
tional stripes suitable for each country
color stripe may be on the edge, or
the various colors may be grouped in
the center. Hat bands of faille have
woven patterns, and also applied de-
signs.
Girdles, sashes and children's hair
bows OF taffeta are in designs of lilies
and roses. and moire effects in stripes
Evening star., 1915-09-12

plolted in recent years: only the slim
NEST, most youthful figure could stand
IL. Inc majority of women have la
bored with it increasingly. There has
never been season since its inaugu-
ration that the average woman could
handle it with skill or grace.
X
The trouble is that even women have
allowed their waist measurements to
grow large in a way that would have
scandalized. not only the Victorians,
but all our near ancestors in America.
Fashion has aided and abetted athletics
for a decade. and all the books in the
world written on the subject of how
to grow thin have not succeeded in
producing the twenty-inch waist of
other days.
When to a large waist was added
gathers and pleats, the effect was often
ludicrous. Great artists like Cheruit
and Worth smoothed out the fullness
over the hips and waist by means of
straps or irregular yokes that lifted
the waist line, but kept 1t fiat. But
there were thousands OF dressmakers
who had not the faintest idea how to
manage this excessive amount of ma
terial caused by the demand for full
superfluity of grotesque looking
women.
This season such fullness at the
waist line will be eliminated to large
extent which is good news to all but
the emaciated women. The cut of
skirt which is widely adopted and domt-
mates the field of clothes is what was
once known as the umbrella skirt.
There is no better name for It, 1t fits
the waist, is smoothed out over the
Evening star., 1915-09-12
NECKWEAR NOVELTIES.

A COLLAR which is almost small
~ cape has round or square back
with revers in front and each shoulder
cut open. A high collar fastening with
three pearl buttons in front has a wing
on the sides turned over. but not flat
tened. Marie-Odile collars are worn
with black silk tie knotted as a four
finland or two-loop bow. Two novel
ties are fat collars of white Georgette
crepe, hand embroidered. and a design
Of wide neck frill in plaits with mar
row black taffeta ribbon at the neck
line. and cuffs fastening with blue
pearl buttons. The material is soldier
blue organdy. Quaker collars are pretty
with a tiny edging of lace or fine vine
Of hand-embroidery around the plain
edge.
For a change. white organdy collars
have hem of Delft or soldier blue.
yellow, stem green, lavender or pink
with windsor tie of the color. Linen,
piaue and gabardine collars of a half
Evening star., 1915-09-12
lg Skirts Shown the Newest Autumn Models


and still more fur Is the slogan OF tho
fashion makers. There may not be
great quantity OF neckpieces worn. as
fashion does not indicate any loose COW
ering for the shoulders that will hide
their lines. but so much fur is demand
ed elsewhere and in such unusual guam
titles that II is more probable the fur
riers will spend sleepless nights Won
dering where to get 1t.
The cuffs. for instance, on every
Jacket are now muffs. They extend to
the elbows and flare to a width of
eight and ten inches at the hands. This
Is part of the Russian influence, and
there is every reason to believe that
these immense bell-shaped accessories
will be sought by every woman who
likes to take UP the extreme thing.
In addition to such lavish use OF
peltry on the sleeves. the hems of
skirts, as well as Jackets. are smoth-
cred in bands Of fur. Evening wraps
are in the nature of Russian coats. and
one of the newest by Callot. has entire
sleeves of fur that are shaped out from
the shoulders into great width at tho
wrist. There are other evening coats
that have round Victorian tops Of seal
skin. with all the edges outlined with
ten inches of sealskin. AS for flaring
fur redingotes-that's another chapter.
Evening star., 1915-09-12

not wear the absurd little coatees and
boleros of the hour.
Some Of the new models show this
coat in Robin Hood green. lavish]y
trimmed with red fox. The skirt of a
particular model is cut on the plan Of
hem, and the coat reaches within six
inches of the knees. From shoulder to
hem of the jacket there are outside
corded seams at intervals of five and
six inches and the fronts are fastened
from chin to waist with Jet buttons
After the coat leaves the lower edge OF
the waist it ripples into fullness. which
does not stand out from the figure in so
exaggerated manner as the new Rus
sian coats, but falls Imply against the
figure.
There is coachman's collar and wide
cuffs of red fox, which are striking but
not as becoming to the average face as
wolf pointed like fox.
Il
The coat with the turned-down collar
will be seldom seen. The individual
lists may insist upon It as a means of
coming into sharp contrast with the
masses. but, roughly speaking, the coat
of the day is fastened to the chin, for
there never have been such high col
lars; they are the features of all the
new jackets, as well as blouses
One can call them by any name.
Coachman serves as well as anything
else, but some designers are giving
them all kinds of historic names. They
are attached to the neckband, they are
fastened straight up the 'front.' they
are cut to flare away from the face and
the chin is entirely covered by the ex-
Evening star., 1915-09-12

roll are very appropriate for tailored
suits accompanied by the now very
smart windsor tie in stripes, plaids,
som5er shadings, or plain colors in a
tied bow, four hand or knotted sail
or tie. Black and white checked taffeta
ribbon is jauntily worn as fiat or
folded band or outstanding collar, loose
ly tied in two loops and short ends. A
black edge on organdy collars is in
good style. Some plated frills to be
worn as outstanding collars are five
inches deep. curved away slightly in
front to allow the chin to rest naturally
low and have ribbon tied in front.
Net. lace, crepe, organdy and fine en-
broidery are used in the making of
dainty removable vestees to be worn
with blouses as well as tailored suits.
Revers effects have oval. square. round
ed and pointed turnover tabs In front.
A large cape collar In white has hem
or piping of color. With 1t is worn a
shaded or plain crepe or windsor tie Of
silk of the same color. A new boudoir
cap is jockey shape made of net with
visor front, and tiny frill OF net all
around. New ostrich scarfs initiate fox
furs, with one end bushy as a tall
would be.
Evening star., 1915-09-12

treme ones, which reach to the tip Of
the ears.
If they get larger they may serve as
hats, and, even as 1t is. 1t is not possi-
BILE to wear wide fat hat with large
brim in connection with the collar. for
the face would be eclipsed. There is
no doubt that these collars made of fur
will be immensely popular. but the fur
riers are anxious1y asking if their ac-
ceptance by the majority of women will
decrease the sale of other kinds of fur
neckpieces.
1t Is probable that women will never
be persuaded to give up pieces of peltry
| that cover the shoulders; 1t is the re-
| naming savage instinct in them to
ding around their bodies the skins of
| wild beasts; this truth was proved dur
| ing the summer, when every woman
who could afford the price of a fox.
| white or otherwise, arrayed herself in
| 1t. even on days when mosquito net
| ting would have been too warm a COW
ering. She temporarily reverted to the
cave-woman.
The furriers, however, need not spend
sleepless nights wondering where their
rent Is to be obtained, for paradise is
opening to them. Fur, and again fur,
Evening star., 1915-09-12
Virginia Pickle, Without Cooking.
CoI0rS to Be Worn.

1R LUSH mauve is a new shade. Tho
~ Watteau idea of light pink and
blue are seen in glace effects. bouquet
designs, embrofderies, brooches. etc.
Bright yellow and deep flesh shades ap-
pear as f1nishings of navy blue gowns.
Black and white is still smart. Sand
color and horizon blue blend well, as
does also the palest pastel blue and
deep old rose. Maize combined with
bottle or Russian green tones up the
somber effect at once. Three new
shades are currant, blackberry and
mulberry. These colors are exquisite in
velvet, and also look well in wooIen
and silk dress goods. All shades of pur-
pie will be worn. lavender and mauve
for evening coat suits are made o.
navy, black, graphite gray. bottle and
Russian green, African brown, mahog-
any or mulberry. dark metal shades OF
gray and grayish blue. Deep purple
suits are trimmed with beaver fur.
Evening star., 1915-09-12
and figures. Satin ribbons in evening
shades are used for sashes, girdles and

and figures. Satin ribbons in evening
shades are used for sashes, girdles and
bands on net, crepe and other frocks
Nvvy, mulberry, bottle green, taupe,
African brown, dark purple, battleship
gray and dregs vf wine are leading
colors.
Tinsel ribbons are used for f1chulike
bands under transparent net, crepe,
chiffon and similar waists. Narrow tin
sci ribbons and metal buttons are used
on neckwear. Bright shades of satin
ribbon look well as bretelles on a waist
of sheer goods under the fabric Sashes
of one end and loop from a small bow
or fluffy rosette look well at the back.
Evening bodices are made entirely of
alternate bands of val lace and rib
bon. Entire waists of wide ribbon are
veiled with net. Evening dress petit
coats are also made of net, decorated
with several rows of satin ribbon. Bou-
doir caps of lace, net and ribbon fasten
with snaps. Baby caps of narrow ribbon
have the rows interviewer like a chair
seat, and are edged with lace or novelty
trimming.
Evening star., 1915-09-12
Pickles and Tomatoes.
while hot and this will keep for years

while hot and this will keep for years
II desired.
Rine Tomato Pickle.
one eailon extra ripe toha.oes' one
saiion caopase' one quart oi oh'ohs'
one-half dozen green peppers, one cup
of salt. Chop fine, mix well and let
drin two hours then add three table,
.
spoohi uls oi hiuslaro' Two oi ginger.
two of tumeric, one of cloves. one OF
ce!eryseed and one OF cinnamon All
spices are ground. Five cups OF sugar,
one-half gallon or vinegar. Boil thfr-
ty minutes.
tomato hel1sh without Cooking.
NHop hne oiie peck OF ripe tomatoes
Add to the nuIn the next morning forr
large green peppers, nine onions and
three heads of celery chopped fine with
one-half cup OF salt, four cups OF vine
gar. one cup ow white mustard seed.
TWO pounds OF brown sugar MIX thor
oueis ""u eah unoooheo'
India Relish.
Slice one-half dozen green tomatoes
and take out as manv of the seeds a.
Won can easily Remoy. the seed, o,,o
.ou e"H io'e 'he ses aiso
and chop together with two onion.
shce dozen medium sized cucumbers
ana put al IN stone jar. cover with
salt and let stand twenty-four hours.
Dram. pour Two cups OF vinegar ana
sInu,S - .co,d .nd dr.f, asai, Ms
a paste with a little cold vinegar three
ia tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoon
eaCh cinnamon tumeTlc.
one saiespoonIul eacn cioVes ana an
81 oSu a Piett VI sliesar, auu "
~ lwo .aoI uis OF white musta'u
s1 s1u anu mint tne Specs anu veseta
,,,in,,+.s st,sri al " poli, cooR .Men,y
r,amu'es: mas,: ,, s.IrIihs < almost constani
W. t.t ,r.o sai Jat'' ias ioi auisn
oa 'uiii feai oHei 'he up anu
se"i'
Whole Tomafo p;ch1s
Wash, wipe and weigh seven mounds
of small yellow near-sbaned tom.toe.
D.. ..
pounds of sugar, one half ounce each
e''.h eiiiiahioh anu "hoie cio'es' t"o
- me- pepp.
snicas IN Gao,l IT,
drop in the tomatoes. simmer gently
until clear, pack in glass jars, boil
down the sirup, pour over them and
seal
Co1,rado s,r,.& r,,,,,,.. p:.l
AiAS'
Wash 200 small cucumbers nut IN
crocL ,,d snr;nk,. ,,,;., T.. :,
aNo OPP iihhie Win one pint Oh
salt Four on enough boiling water to
cover and let stand twenty-four hours.
Po,ir off water hoi1 until scum rises
skim and pour over pickles. Next day
a1ur, while boiline Pour hack on nick-
1as Nav, dow dr.in otf Golf u.ta +.L.
a pint of vinegar and two pints of water
Let boil, add few pickles at time
10 Just scaid. rake on ana put In not
II uit jars anu eoSer Win the toiio"ihs
sold two Quarts of yipe,ar one
ounce cinnamon bark, one ounce all
spice whole, one-half ounce whole black
pepper, one tablespoonful of alum. two
cups of brown sugar. one ounce tu-
meric. four or Ave green peppers cut
fine Boil. pour over pickles and seal
while hot
Evening star., 1915-09-12

put out with rosewater, according to
Frances great general, but truth is
shown. and, a new path blazed and mil
neers who go into new country and
show the others how to follow; thus it
was that the woman wage-earners
taught all other women that time aud
vitality are the great factors to guard
in life and that it is far wiser to waste
mere money
This is a revolution you will ad-
NIT. and the people who have profited
most by it are the shops. ALI of which
Evening star., 1915-09-12

Collars
The New Fashions From AdFnh Dgner Effort Boom Home Indus
Using More Mena-FW and Still More Slogan From
Waist Line Be Smane Rtnhouse the Latest Predictions of Styles
the Coming Winter
Evening star., 1915-09-12

Quaint taffeta gowns for evening have
tight little bodices and a reminiscenct
of Marie Antoinette in their panniers.
Evening star., 1915-09-12
SUNDAY MENU.

BREAKFAST
Grapes. Cereal with Hot Milk.
Fried Green Tomatoes.
Crisped Bacon.
Toast.
Coffee.
DINNER
Cream of Celery Soup.
Picked Tomatoes.
Roast Duck. Orange Jelly.
Sweet Potatoes. Fried Egg Plant.
Lettuce and Green Pepper Salad.
Apple Dumplings. Lemon Sauce.
Coffee.
SUPPER.
Lettuce and Cream Cheese Salad.
Cold Boiled Ham.
Mustard Pickles.
Chocolate Cake.
Iced Tea. Apple Sauce.
Evening star., 1915-09-12

Gowns of silk faille have velvet coats.
Evening star., 1915-09-12

Millinery favors taffeta and fur.
Evening star., 1915-09-12
Old Scotch Brick and Breck.

One part of green tomatoes. one part
of ripe tomatoes, three large heads of
cabbage. one-h half dozen green peppers.
one-half dozen ripe peppers and one
dozen large onions. Cut up fine and salt
heavily, let stand overnight. drain off
the brine, put in a kettle with three
pounds of brown sugar and enough
vinegar to cover them. Cook one hour.
Just before taking from fire put in one
tablespoonful of grated horseradjsh.
ground black pepper. cloves, three of
celery seed. if desired
Evening star., 1915-09-12

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
NEW YORK. September IL, 1915.
F1HE designers say that there will
be a struggle for less full
skirts before the winter is well
q advanced. That is a drop OF
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-06-09
THE MAN WHO DARED

even then, when / should have
felt gratitude for the man, l
only hated him the more; hated
him for the debt l owed him.
Oliver suspected something of
what was going on in my mind.
He took a different tack, a gruff
impotence in his voice at the
vicious angle of my weakness.
Martin dragged and carried
you here at considerable risk to
himself. He is not particularly
popular with the police, to whom
he Is well known, and there was
a big chance that he might have
been Jailed on a charge of hav-
ing beaten you up, 'strong-arm-
ing you, or a dozen other things.
HE has been to my office sew
eral times. He knew l was a
friend of yours, and of Annals.
He telephoned me at home what
condition you were in, asked me
to come to the office and said
he'd bring you here if 1t was
agreeable to me.
"'rm doing this explain
ed Martin when he carried
you in, for HER-nOt for
him. 4 amt got much use
for a guy that acts like this
when-well, guy that pre-
tends to be on the level
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-06-09
CROWD SEES
WEDDING AT
MOOSE SHOW

One of the most largely attend
ed weddings In the history of
Tacoma took place in the open air
of Market street last night, inside
the Joy Streak" of the Moose
carnival.
Miss Florence Thrall of Mid
land was the bride. Lemuel Carr,
1929 NJ street, Milwaukee rail-
road man, was the groom. Lo-
reno Dow gave away the bride.
and Justice Dewitt M. Evans per-
formed the ceremony.
Several thousand persons re-
NAMED absolutely still while the
ceremony was being read. At the
conclusion, when the nervous and
bashful groom leaned over to
kiss his bride, a yell arose from
the throng that could be heard 20
blocks away. The young couple
received dozens of beautiful gifts
from members of the Moose lodge
and from local merchants.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-06-09
CLUB TAKES UP
CAMPAIGN FOR
TACOMA GOODS

Planning a vigorous campaign
to induce Tacomans to use goods
manufactured in Tacoma, the
Commercial club trustees have
invited manufacturers, commits
sion men, and the city council, to
dine with them at 1915 Friday,
to discuss plans for launching the
scheme.
Tacoma factories are now man.
ufacturing practically everything
of common use except cloth, and
the Commercial club is eager TO
induce Tacoma housewives to
get the habit" of demanding Ia
coma-made goods.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-06-09

Q.-I help my mother a
great deal with the work
about the house and my
hands get so red and rough.
How can keep them smooth
and white? ADA.
A.-The treatment of rough
hands varies with differtn skins
Some women can use diluted
glycerine with benefit, some not
at all.
Vaseline will keep the skin soft
but IL sometimes promotes the
growth of hair. For hands which
crack and bleed, use sweet oil, or
olive oil, though mutton tallOw
exccls either. 1t should be ap-
Piled generally at night and COW
cred with loose kid gloves.
When hands look parbOiled,
after washing, soak them in vim
egar.
Strong odOrs of onions or fish
may be removed from hands by
rubbing them with mustard wa
ter. L.
For stains upon fingers or nails
use peroxide or LEMON juice.
To keep hands from becoming
stained when pairing vegetables
use the knife under water so fan
rs possible.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-06-09

have associated for five years
have recently married. Is 1t
proper for the boys to con-
tinue addressing the married
girls by their first names?
F.. A.
Alt certainly Is proper for
both the boys and the girl to
continue the old habit of using
the first names. Why should or
binary human cordially and
good will be changed simply be-
cause u girl has received the right
TO put "Nirs." before her name?
There Is no reason-except con.
sideration for u jealous person.
Consideration for the jealous,
whether man or woman, usually
makes both absurd. 1t would
certainly seem the height of the
absurd to address as won Al
stine," the little girl for so long
known as "Annie" or Dot"