davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1915-10-08
A NEW FROCK AND HOW TO
MAKE IT, BY MAY MANTON

the collar on the bias fold and the line
of large periorations in the cuffs on the
bias in place Of on the straight; but,
in these days a great many materials
arc woven or stamped 20 give the
effect Of bias plaid, while they are In
reality straight and Of course such
material greatl simphhes the labor.
The process Of making will always be
the same. Again. th dress can be
made OF one material throughput and
Il a serge or gabardine were TO be used,
d would be well to treat il in that way.
although there are always possibilities
and advantages in combinations. They
give good color effects and they serve
the very practical end Of helping ma
tcrially when remaking is under
consideration.
One of the diagrams shows the
dress laid out on material "A inches
vide skirt and blouse an together
Il you have decided TO make il as
shown ia the picture. OF two ma
tcrials, it will be necessary only TO lay
the skirt, collar and cuffs on the plaid
aud the parts Of the blouse on the
plain but 20 follow the same general
plan for the one diagram serves per-
iectly for both needs. The second
diagram shows all the pieces numbered
as they are TO be PUT together, that &
60 say, when you are making the dress
on will remember that one goes to ON,
Evening journal., 1915-10-08

for the cuiis, llien aIians o,eI .,.
blouse with the center backs exactly
together and underface as you have
already underiaced the cuffs and the
sleeves. Roll the collar over on the
perlorations. As you will have dis
covered by looking at the diagram. the
material is not wide enough to cut
the skirt in enc piece, therefore. you
will have TO cut it in sections and as
first step, these SECTIONS must be
joined. the selvage edges meeting.
Take single seams only and on the
wrong side and press open carefully.
Turn up the lower edge for hem or
underlace it as you have planned 10
do. then form the plaits by folding on
zach line OF smaller periorations aud
tapping to the succeeding line Of larger
rertcrations and tapping c lines OF
smaller perlorations nearest the back
edges 10 meet those edges. Close the
back seam.
Evening journal., 1915-10-08

and two goes 70 two. so IL there is any
doubt in your mind as TO which edges
are TO be Joined, it viii be necessary
only TO glance at the diagram 20 make
sure. There is only one ollar given.
but It caa be attached either TO the
high OF TO the round neck. For the
high neck, IL must be cut off little on
the periorations near the front edge.
but the Two collars have exactly the
same shape and the sewing on is done
~ exactly the same way. For the high
Evening journal., 1915-10-08

b,stiug thread as you may like. As
a first step. in the making. Join the
shoulder edges Of the blouse. taking
up first a vcrS narrow seam on the
right side and then turning again on
the wrong side and stitching on the
marked outline OF the pattern. Join
the sleeves to the arm-hole edges and
TO do this. haste them together with
the notchcs exactly meeting and the
single rcriorations in the sleeves at
the shoulder seams. Cut bias under
Evening journal., 1915-10-08

7 ARLY au,umn is always a time
OF exceptional interest in the
matter ef school irocks. This
year the real novelty is found in
the onc-piece dresses. as they are
called. or those that are made with
skirts and blouses that are Joined in
enc way or another to make complete
Evening journal., 1915-10-08

7so4 Boys Norfolk BLOUSE Suit o to 10
years.
1908 Boys Suit. a to years.
With Straight Trousers, with or with
out Standing Collar.
ss7a Boys Suit, 70 years
With Straight Trousers ar knickcr-
bockers. with Collar or Neck Band
s63i Boys Suit. to 10 years.
With or without Applied Yoke
s6Iz Boys Suit. 4 TO s years.
Evening journal., 1915-10-08
from the FASHION CENTRES

It will be remembered perhaps that
few weeks ago, mention was made Of
white neck-wear with colored bands
and this new gown accentuates the
tendency commented on at that time.
Really marvellous effects are OBJ
tained by combinations OF materials,
and among other tendencies are to
be noted, is the one of the broadening
hip-line An interesting costume sent
over from Paris and which is supposed
to exemplify some of the tendencies
expected for the autumn output, conf
bines skirt Of black and white checked
silk. with plain bodice of black faille.
The skirt is full, pointed joined to a
yoke that extends to just below the
hips, and at the joining is arranged
cord inserted in tuck of the silk which
causes the full skirt to stand away from
the figure and TO accentuate the
breadth. At the lower edge Of the
skirt are three tiny little ruffies Of the
silk. The bodice is quite plain, except
for a little fulness at the under-arm
seams and is finished straight at the
waist line, with a little frill below
the tucked silk that extends over the
skirt. The sleeves are long and plain,
sewed to the bodice at the dropping
shoulder line and at the arm-hole seams
narrow frills appear again. There are
upturned. haring cuffs and there is
turned-ovcr collar with deep points OF
silver mesh net which is exceedingly
handsome and exceedingly effective.
The bodice with its slight fulness at
the under-arm seams, is especially
noteworthy, since we see a great many
evidences. Of that feature in the in
coming styles. We all know that
elaborate skirts always mean COM
paratively plain bodices, but the
woman accustomed to modern ways IS
not ready for the plain, boned one and
this model with its slight fullness under
the arms has come as a compromise.
In the collars and cuffs, there are hints
of the Navarro period referred to
above, but the costume is quite indi-
vidual and cnly suggestive in bits, 80
to speak.
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS.
S74I Coat with Plaits "a to a bust
Ssos Plated Skirt with Yoke, "a to 81
waist
ss45 Plain Blouse or Guimpe. 81 to "A
bust.
sz34 Princesse Gown, "a 70 40 bust
Ss7I-A Two-Piece Empire Skirt,
"a TO 81 waist.
86S4 Yoke Waist with Box Plaits.
"a to 40 bust.
s6z5 Two-Piece Gathered Skirt, "a to
81 waist.
s676 Gown with Circular Flounce,
a 10 ~ bust
Evening journal., 1915-10-08
The Pieces Numbered as They are to be
Put Together.

notches exactly meeting. Then cut
two bias undertakings one and one
quarter inches wide and tho length OF
the sleeves at the wrists. Join the
ends and arrange over the cuffs with
the right sides together. Stitch the
facing to the cuffs and the sleeves on
the marked outline of the pattern.
then turn the facings and the seams
up on the under side and stitch or
hem the edge into place.
For the front edges, cot straight
undertakings Of the material one and
thrcc-quarier inches wide. Lay over
the right sides Of the blouse and stitch
the edges together, always following
the marked outline OF the pattern;
turn neatly. baste into place and stitch
again one and one-quarter- inches
within each edge, but take care not to
extend the stitching quite TO the lower
edge OF the blouse. for you want to
stitch on the lower edge as in the
illustration and % get tho mitred
effect. Cut the lining for the collar
the same as the outside and stitch
the outside edges together as directed
Evening journal., 1915-10-08
BOYS SUITS THAT ARE POPULAR

ored effect prevails, but this season
there is license allowed in the cos
tunes of the younger boys that is
exceptional and exceedingly interest
Evening journal., 1915-10-08

THE now materials are both
handsome and Interesting for
many influences have been
at work Owing. no doubt, To the
prominence ol Seotlard in the great
world drama plaids are many aud
exceptionally beautiful lor we not
alone have those suescHcd hy the
sailnus claus hut also variations
and sonicl icw combinations that
are q delight e. the exc. for they
combine rich col0rs without
plarinc elect. Nelrcts are TO be
extensively used boih .is THINNING
and for entire gowns, and velvet
always makes good ciiect
Western Kansas world. [volume] (WaKeeney, Kan.) 1885-current, 1915-05-08

/ have just completed an examina-
ton and abstracting of the county
properties by order of the board of
Commissioners at the April meeting.
How about your titlee
ADV. W. 81. Swiggitt.
Western Kansas world. [volume] (WaKeeney, Kan.) 1885-current, 1915-05-08


RI. Beans photo studio will be
open on May e-10-11.-Adv 2t-
Bring in your hogs, Monday, May
3lst- All kinds Farmers Union
Adv. 10 st.
The Freshman class of our High
school. entertain the sophomores at
reception at the High school this
friday evening.
= R. c. Wilson was in Topeka this
week attending the State Sunday
school convention. He returned
Thursday evening.
Several of the young people enjoyed
six o'clock breakfast at the DeBoer
home, Thursday morning. All pres
ent report a great time.
VIM. Shrenkler of Kansas City,
Mo-. arrived last Friday evening to
look after his business interests here.
He left Wednesday evening for Cor
ham.
and rainy Tuesday evening the thero-
mometer registered around the
freezing point. but the fruit crop re-
ceiyed no damage.
Last Tuesday l. c.. Gleason sold
the Gleason ranch twelve miles north
of town to w n. Hall of Hays. Lew
will hold public sale consisting of
horses, cattle, farm machinery, etc.
on Tuesday, May Is.
The Farmers Union will buy your
hogs, Monday, May 31st. All kinds.
They will make two more shipments
before harvest. The number you
have for sale should be listed with
W. G. P. Rhoades.-Adv 10 St.
On Thursday the Farmers Union
purchased the D. Fl. Hentlle building,
now occupied by the Myerly hard
ware store and will remodel same.
They aim to be located in their new
headquarters about June 1st-
Chase Wilson arrived home last
Saturday evening from Emporia,
where he had spent the past two
weeks visiting Mrs. Wilson's parents.
Mrs Wilson and little son will make
an extended visit before returning.
w G. P Rhoades reports the first
Farmers Union hog shipment the
biggest in the history of the county.
Five carloads were purchased at Sc. so
per hundred. The total average for
the five cars were 326 pounds each
and amounted to $500.
The first division of the High
school Senior class will present the
"Village Lawyer next Friday even
ing, at the High school auditorium.
This is an up-to-date play and will be
rendered with much skill as has al
ways been the custom of our High
school plays. Tickets on sale at the
drug store Tuesday morning.
Mrs. W. Y. Herrick expects to go
to Hays the last of this week or the
first of next, to secure rooms for her
self and daughter, Lacy, also Miss
Hockersmith, who teaches at the
Normal school this summer. Mrs.
Herrick expects to take course in
domestic science and art, while Lacy
wild take gymnasium work and violin
| lessons.
Last Saturday evening Mr. and
Mrs. Peter DeBoer very pleasantly
! entertained a number of the boy
/ friends of their son, Guy, at seven
4 O'Clock supper in honor of his twenty
second birthday. After short chat
the guests were invited to the dining
room, which was beautifully decora-
ted in red and white, and where a
delicious three course supper was
served. The remainder of the even
ing was spent in playing games. The
boys, who had had jolly good time
departed to their homes wishing Guy
many more happy birthdays The
following were invited: Fritz Staatz
Neil Ufford. Eddie Keraus, Earl anC
Audley Croft, Day Moore, Charley
Mertes, Frank Locker, Frank Chalt
and Fred Shaw
L
Western Kansas world. [volume] (WaKeeney, Kan.) 1885-current, 1915-05-08
II you need a Real Estate loan see
The Wa-Keeney State Bank.-Adv 2.
Carpet and Rug Weaving

We are prepared to weave genuine
old time Rag carpets, Colonial rag
rugs, Fluff rugs from worn Ingram or
Brussels carpets. Portieres, Porch
Pillows. etc.
Rag rugs are all the rage. Prepare
rags as you would for rag carpets.
Let US do the weaving and you will
be surprised and pleased with the
results We furnish the best warp,
use the latest improved Newcomb
Loom, fill orders promptly and guar
antee first class work.
Prices gladly quoted on request.
Call and see our samples.
Mrs. A. J. Wineburner.
Phone 153. Wa-Keeney, Kansas
Evening star., 1915-04-04
CHICAGO GRAIN.

CHICAGO. April 3.-After taking a
downturn in response to peace rumors.
the wheat market today advanced
when developments failed to confirm
hopes that shortening of the war
was In sight. Feeling at the close
was unsettled. with quotations 1sa1 Y
above Thursday nights level Corn
finished 1-16 off to a like amount up.
oats unchanged to BaA lower, and
provisions at rise of "a to 10 cents.
Wheat prices broke rather sharply at
first, but offerings were absorbed on
resting orders, and it was not long
before shorts attempting to cover
found the market virtually bare of Of
to continue to hold attention, which
soon appeared to center more on the
big export clearances-1. $4,000 bushels
for the day. In this connection, Kan
sas City dispatches brought word that
most of the three fourths of a million
bushels of wheat remaining there
would be loaded out as fast as cars
could be obtained. and that stocks
would be next to nothing by May l.
Illinois, Indiana. Missouri and Kan
crop damage tended to discoura go
wheat bears in the last part of the
session. and il was noted that the Liv-
erpool market held steady regardless
of the supposed better outlook for
peace. In the end, belief seemed to
have increased that Europe would be
obliged TO come to the United States
for large quantities Of breadstuffs this
month, as tonnage promised to be
scarce and vessel rates high for ship
ments from Argentina.
Corn swayed with wheat A late
rally was helped by reports of big ex-
port clearances of corn and by buIlish
estimates of corn reserves on farms
oats had only narrow range Trad
ing was almost altogether local
Gossip of foreign government orders
put strength into provisions Offer
ings, however, Increased to a material
extent on the bulge.
Evening star., 1915-04-04
COTTON MARKETS.
NEW YORK.

NEW YORK, April "A storm area
in the Atlantic coast states and low
temperatures generally throughout the
belt, but particularly in the southeast
caused considerable strength in the cot
ton market today, and prices were well
sustained throughout the entire ses-
sion. closing almost at the top and 9
to 16 points above the close of Thurs
day.
Both the New Orleans and the Liver
pool markets were closed, which per-
haps accounted for some OF the activity
in New York. Wall street, which. sold a
good deal of cotton prior to the holi-
day, seemed inclined to replace it's lines
and showed quite a good deal of enthu-
siam the bull side partly in antici-
patton of largely reduced acreage In
addition. the marKet was affected by
large spinners takings for the week
and better reports from the dry goods
section. In the latter market one of
the important features of the week was
said to have been the advance of nc
per yard on several leading lines of
bleached cottons. The scarcity of dye
stuffs has caused important lines of
cotton goods to be withdrawn from sale
and large contracts have been turned
down by some of the manufacturers,
while others have greatly reduced their
range of colors and patterns. Accord
ing to Manchester cables, American
coarse yarns there were Nd higher,
with buying restricted throughout. De-
mand from India. China and South
hand, sales OF print cloths at Fall River
for the week were 275.000 pieces COM
pared with 10000 last year, while cur
tailment was slightly ahead of year
ago 1t was said of the May contract
here that increasing pressure of hedge
selling has been noted and that these
sales will be liquidated through tenders
of actual cotton.
Evening star., 1915-04-04
RESERVE BANK
OF RICHMOND SEVENTH
Weekly Report Shows Total Re-
sources and Liabilities Total
ing SIS, 900.

The federal reserve bank of Rich
mond has Sl5,50T, 900 of total resources
and liabilities, seventh of the twelve
banks of the system in Importance
based upon this showing. Resources
and liabilities as shown by the week
ly statement at close of business April
/. are as follows:
Resources-Gold coin and certificates,
sS.767. 900; legal tender notes Ger
titicates and subsidiary coin. s42, 900:
bills discounted and loans, $685., 900;
investments. $4,000: all other resources,
s2S.000
Labilities-Reserve deposits, s7,9S4-
00o: due to other federal reserve banks
$l2f3.000; federal reserve notes in cir
culation. $i,099,0O0; capital paid in,
S2211,000.
Combined resources and liabilities of
the federal reserve banks at close of
business April 1-2 are as follows:
RESOURCES
Gold coin and certificates. .S233, IS 900
Legal tender notes, silver certificates
and subsidiary coin. n.............. ., ,627 900
Bills discounted and loans:
Maturities within 20 days. .......... $1O.0II 900
Maturities within 60 days. 15.2i4 600
other ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. S.3J9, 900
Total. l..-..................... $33 67S. 900
Investments 81. .293. 900
Due from federal reserve banks:
Items in transit. Observation-Disclosures. 10, 2S9 600
All other resources. Observation-Disclosures. $500. 900
Total resources. s......-...........S $3.50. .674 900
LIABILITIES.
Capital paid in. Observation-Disclosures. $50. 123 600
Reserve deposits. 293, ,9o4, 900
Federal reserve notes In circula-
tion (A. -................... 9,597, 600
net liability
Total liabilities .-............s .s339, ,674, 900
Gold reserve against net liabilities tBJ sI.6qo
Cash reserve against net Liabilities tB) 9U.3Tc
Cash reserve against liabilities after
setting aside 1910 gold reserve
against net amount of federal re-
serve notes in circulation b.. 92.oro
April 1-2, 1915.
Al Federal reserve notes in circula-
ton -; ..............-..... s43.a7s.ooo
Deduct: Gold and lawful money In
hands Of federal agents for
retirement of outstanding notes. :. 33779 900
Net liability of reserve banks upon
outstanding notes. s.................. ss,5s7, 600
OBJ After deduction of items in tran
sit between federal reserve banks,
Evening star., 1915-04-04
FINANCIAL LOCAL AND OTHERWISE
BY I. A. FLEMING,

gold in it's vaults for the Argentine
government. From March S to March
20 Sf1.100,00o had been thus set aside.
ana leading newspaper of Buenos
Aires discussing the situation has pro-
posed that certificates having the in
dorsement of the British treasury be
issued against it. and that these certif-
icates be made lawful in the gold re-
serve against Argentine paper money.
Argentina also has an important
amount of gold ear marked in New
York which it has been unable to move
under existing shipping conditions.
Even If there was no difficulty in trans
porting gold, this country does not need
more at this time. We have no use for
gold except for bank reserves. and
these are ample already for all the
business there is in sight. When the
federal reserve act went into effect, it
released at one stroke bank reserves
amounting in the aggregate to five
times the greatest net imports of gold
in any one year of our history"
Evening star., 1915-04-04
TREASURY STATEMENT.

The condition of the United States
Treasury at the close Of business yes
terday was:
Net balance in general fund, $3o.477,-
$40.
Total receipts Friday, $1.765,865.
Total payments, $2.261.353.
The deficit this fiscal year is 93,468,-
367, against a deficit of $2S.431, ,9s9 last
year. exclusive of Panama canal and
public debt transactions.
Evening star., 1915-04-04
FIGHT FOR ROCK ISLAND.
Stockholders, by Proxy Committee.
Name Candidates for Directors.

NEW YORK. April a. The contest
for control Of the Chicago, Rock Island
and Pacific Railway Company assumed
a new phase today when the proxy
committee made known the names of
the following stockholders to be voted
for as directors at the annual meeting
April IL: w. Emlen Roosevelt, capi-
talist, railroad and bank director; Will
liam J. Mathison. merchant and bank
director; Timothy S. Williams. presi-
dent Brooklyn Rapid Transit Company.
and Charles Hayden. senior partner of
Evening star., 1915-04-04
J.P. MORGAN & co.
NEW YORK PRODUCE.

NEW YORK, April 3.-Flour-Quiet.
Rye f1our-Dull.
Buckwheat-Steady.
Cornmeal-Steady.
Rye-Dull.
Barley-Dull
Wheat-Spot, steady; No. . red, 1.6l Y
and No. hard, 1.65A, all rail elf.
track export; No. l northern Duluth.
1551a, and No. 1 northern Manitoba,
165, elf Buffalo opening navigation;
futures, steady: May, 1.61B.
Corn-Spot steady: No. yellow. S3A
elf. to arrive.
Oats-Spot steady.
Hay-Quiet.
Hope-Quiet
Hides-Steady.
Leather-Firm.
Pork-Qutet-
Beef-Steady.
Lard-Firm: middle west, s,s3as.s3.
Tallow-Dull.
Wool-Steady.
Rosin-Quiet-
Turpentine-Firm: machine barrels.
471s.
Rice-Steady.
Enthusiastically.
Holiday in sugar and coree
Evaporated apples-Nominai
Prunes-In better demand
Apricots-Quiet
Peaches-Dull and weak
Raisins-Neglected.
Evening star., 1915-04-04
DRY GOODS MARKET.

NEW YORK. April 3.-Wide sheet
ings and wide printed shirtings ad-
vanced in price today. Cotton goods
we're firm, yarns steady and burlaps ir-
regularly higher. The imports of dry
goods are Increasing. Linens were
very firm and knit goods advanced.
Evening star., 1915-04-04
Comparison of Stocks.

The recent prominence given to in
dustrial stocks prompts US to offer the
following comparisons. showing the
market prices of few of the leading
dividend-paying issues. with the net
income basis on actual investment:
Evening star., 1915-04-04

In the cable operating expenses of
s230.50o. The value Of telegraph lines
and equipment has been increased in
the last year by S3.S51.79S; there have
been added to the land line plant 2.44o
miles of pole line, 27.45s miles of iron
wire. 1882 miles of copper wire and
2,464 miles Of wire in cables, large
portion of the latter being under
Evening star., 1915-04-04
FIRST NATIONAL BANK
/ WILL SELL

81 400 Washington Gas SO at Io41a.
x5,OOO Georgetown Gas 50 mt 1O4.
81 900 Wash. RSy. & Elec. 40 at S1A.
81 900 Capital Traction 80 at los.
$4,000 Potomac Consld. 80 at IOOa4.
I05 Capital Traction mt 50.
rs Wash. Rwy. pfd. at S41s.
80 Wash. Rwy. common mt no.
100 Washington Gas at s2A.
II Georgetown Gas at 102.
10 Mergenthaler Mt 1S3.
: LanstOn at IS.
20 Wash. & Southern Bank Mt 1OI.
10 Bank Of Warrington mt 233.
5 Riggs National bank at 5O4 ex div.
100 Continental Trust at I:O.
20 Franklin Nat. Bank at 129.
:5 McLachIen Bank. Corp. Ibid wnntedb.
10 Federal Nat. Bank at 40.
100 Real ESTATE Trust at 81.
30 East Wash. Savings ibid yvanted).
10 \. & w. Steamboat at 175is.
10 Graphophone pfd. at 90.
20 Heurich's Brewing at 1O6.
100 Wash. Base Ball Club Ibid wantedD.
10 Washington Storage Co. at So.
Is Gayety Theater mt 145.
/ WILL BUY
s2.OOO Washington Gas SO at 1851.
$1,000 Wash. Rwy. & EIec. AZ mt sos.
1000 Potomac COnsld. SO at 1OOA.
30 Capital Traction at SO.
- Wash. Rwy. Dfd. at S3A.
30 Wash. Rwy. common at S7M.
IS Washington Gas at II.
20 Georgetown Gas at s..
10 Nergenthaler at 17c12.
10 Bank of Warrington at c05.
10 Munsey Trust at 95.
80 United States Trust toffer wantedp.
80 Graphophone com. (offer wantedD.
Subject to previous acceptance or
cancellation. All executions for cash
Buying and selling orders on all listed
stock and bonds solicited
Deliveries for cash at your own bnnk.
THOMAS L. HUME. Broker.
1410 G St. Rooms ell Tel NJ 1916.
WANTED-REAL LIVE BROKER TO SELL
stock Of window shade carrier company: TEN
THOUSAND OF these carriers have been sold
in Washington indorsed very highly; active
broker have controlling interest Of stock
IL desired There 20.o00 shares in all.
Par value $40. Box 3l4. Star office.
Evening star., 1915-04-04
CHICAGO.

CHICAGO, April s.-Hogs-Receipts. g.
5000 head: strong. Bulk: S.s5ao 70;
6.5Oa7.00: rough, 6.50a6.6o; pigs. 5.6oa
Ca Cattle-Receipts. 100 head; steady:
Native steers: 5.soas.7S;e oos COWS y oo ana
Sheep-Receipts, 1000 head; firm.
Sheep, 725as.40: lambs. 7.75a10.15.
Evening star., 1915-04-04

Sir Charles A. Parsons, tho distinguished
engineer, has given $4,000 to the Royal
institution, London, for the general pur-
poses Of the institution
Evening star., 1915-04-04
LIVE STOCK MARKETS.
NEW YORK.

NEW YORK. April s.-Beeves-Re-
ceipts, 319 head: no trading.
CaIves-Reoeipts, 231 head: weak
Common to choice. Sa1l.76.
Sheep and lambs-Receipts, 2'Sso
l Hoss@Receipts. 2,o4e head; no trad