The Washington times., 1915-03-15

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NU keynote Of the hats this spring
V No more does defniteness of
outline melt into fioppy plumes
and indeterminate phantasies. Even the
shapes have their martial suggestion TOT
the army and the navy are well repre-
) sented by the most favored models OF
the season, the helmet and the sailor
The passing weeks are emphasizing
these more and more. as the crown Oh
the helmet rises to TeqItonic fierceness,
while the sailor Is nearly as fiat as the
headgear Of a true Jack tar. No matter
what the material or the use. these two
silhouettes are dominant IN the nillin-
cry world this spring.
OF materials. perhaps the most orig
inal is that heavy new straw Variousiy
'pipestem,' and basket" 1t is usually
woven in two-tone effects, and the re-
suit, though often attractive, sometimes
has the disadvantage of clumsiness. In
Milan straw is favored. for its glisten-
ing smoothness is eminently adapted to
severity of line. The rough hemp
straws are used for the helmet type al
have been called into service to face the
under brims Of dressy models and sailor
hats Of faille.
Milllners have hailed with joy the ap-
pearance Of Georgette crepe and have nave
lost no time in putting 1t to variety
of uses. Trig sailor hats of this dainty
yet substantial. material are sharing
honors with similar shapes developed in
straw. Indeed. transparent hats may
now be donned at any time Of day. as
this same Gaorgette crepe has been
skillfully manipulated in the most elab-
crate .garden-party hats, and wonder OF
wonders, huge picture hats designed es-
line. waterproofed, finely woven and
prettier than ever, rivals even the crepe
at some millinery shops.
Never did trimmings interfere less
with outline. Indeed. in many cases, the
punches of flowers, fruit, or whatever Is
used are carefully appliqued fiat. so no
venturesome blossom dares to lift its
head over the rim. Quills seem to be
sturdier than ever. for in most cases
all the fluffy down has been removed,
and even the remaining portion Is ruth
lessly pruned down into determined. an
guiar lines. Quill centers. or whips -
are casually introduced at each corner
of the tricorn models in remarkable at
titudes that lend a vast amount of chic
TO the ensemble.
Velvet and satin predominate among
the flower trimmings. both for walking
and dressy hats. Oddly indeterminate 9
colorings are seen quite as frequently.
as vivid. punches Of fruit in futurist
luridness. However. whether 1t is fruit
flower or grain. the general effect is al
ways the. plumpness Of sampler vege-
tation. However. no matter how gay
the colorings. they are often counter
balanced by a yelling of crepe-a sort
Of floral sandwich being the result.
All the picturesque qualities of other
days are embodied in the liberal use
of streamcrs, which may be short and
coquettish or long and very. very un-
sophisticated The short kind flap
aayly at the back of small sailor hats
like Intellectual little rudders. and gros-
grain. the most nautical ribbon OBJ
tainabie. is used. Velvet and heavily
ribbed grosgrain ribbons appear on the
garden hats and some shepherdess shapes.
knotted and looped in a way truly
bewildering. Grosgrain ribbon is used
in this manner only in the narrower
widths, while the velvet may be half an
inch wide. or even five inches.
Surely Miss 1915 should be pleased with
the hats prepared for her ladyship. for
they are dainty. practical. and oh, so
becoming, all at once. When has she
had such riches before?