The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-29
~ ELEANOR HoyT BpAINERD.

A 4 the moment Of writing Paris
~ openings have not all been
held, but fashion secrets are
secrets no longer. Every one knows
fairly well what to expect OF the
various designers. and as a mat
ter Of fact those same fashion secrets
were hardly startling enough to call
for Jealous guarding.
Which isn't for q moment to be
construed as meaning that Paris has
not turned out It's usual quota Of
charming models. Judging from the
things which the Importers have al
ready brought over the sketches of
other things TO come and the report
concerning the output OF the French
houses we are to have n season Of
models even more than usually
charming. Tho fashion makers gath
cred their forces in the FACE Of dis
aSesr last year and achieved what wal
- ear . radical change in tho modes
- any n season In likely to bring
out IN this day Of dross eolectic!sm.
We got our full fiarlng skirts. our
moro trinity indicated waists. our mar
row shoulders and SGT In sleeves, and
even the hardest OF reactionaries wns
forced to abandon her tight skirt and
hsr ultra baggy bodice.
Having swung far enough to carry
line of change the pendulum now
settles back q bit and the autocrats
Of fashion busy themselves with I'D
5ustments. The change Of silhouette
n established. Now let US modify It.
let us play with the new idea. let us
even coquette with the old ideas. Ex-
captions are interesting. concessions
are allowable. 1t is the rule that
must occasionally be changed, and the
rule has been changed. Moreover.
even the exceptions are not too re-
dictionary. The full skirt. for in
8N1IlCtt - tNlutINiy Win uo AOA u tOil
siderable stay. No M dreams of con-
testing it's sovereignty, but 1t is ham
died in many ways, is adapted to many
types of'fgure. And that fitted waist
well, one is conscious Of u more
defined waist curve in practically all
Of the new models, but that does not
mean that we must accept the nipped
In rather thar shor wasted bodices
that consorted with the full skirts Of
the spring. Only one type of frock was
really charming in the spring show
ing, and only n type OF woman
could successfully wear the type Of
frock, though many tried 1t with dis
astrous results. Evidently the French
having taken counsel of women's
tastes, and this autumn, II the signs
and p%ortents hold good, there is to be
far more provision for the average
woman han there was in the spring.
Livery HloulSl "oildH 10 Hol = NC
urged into rivalling famous dancers
or stage favorites dressed by Lucille.
A very fair proportion of the newest
models stands for dignity and grace.
There are ladies frocks in goodly
numbers; and. though frocks there
will be, as frocks there must be in
order to satisfy that large element Of
our womanhood hat considers moth
ing 'chic' unless it is spectacular,
It seems probable that being modish
will be a simpler matter than usual
for the woman of quiet tastes.
To begin with, the skirt length, as
THE Sun noted long ago, is to be
perceptibly longer, though not too
long for comfort and grace in the
flowing folds. And that waist curve,
It is often a matter of the corset
rather than of the frock, the latter
adjusting itself TO the corset lines in
stead OF being cut with a decided
ourvs Of its own; yet. even in the