Evening star., 1915-03-21
WHEN IN MOURNING.

Mourning is far less rigid In It's regu-
lations than formerly, considerable
| laxity being shown by sensible folks in
the observance of prescribed periods
of conventional mourning. While one
| does not wish many black gowns.
| nevertheless there must be sufficient
| number to meet stated demands.
Severe frocks are no longer seen. Fash
ion permits designs which, while not
elaborate. are, at least, stylish. 1t is
not uncommon these days to see a
| woman of fashion who must keep up
her social duties attired in an evening
gown of black crepe de chine, trimmed
with black crepe. and made with low
neck and half-length sleeves. Tailored
suits are usually made of serge or
similar material. with bands and but
tons of trimming crepe. A black din
ner gown may be made with black
chiffon yoke and undersleeves. AS a
wearer of mourning will not be going
| out formally. fewer dress articles will
| be required.
! Small, close-fitting hats should be Sc
| lected. The trimmings should consist
| of bows or folds of dull black ribbon
! or silk. Velvet is not permissible. The
crepe hat is permissible. and it can be
| beautifully constructed and made
| wholly graceful and becoming. The
| widows long veil of silk grenadine is
seldom worn more than six weeks, and
| is often replaced entirely by a shorter
1 veil, draped on small hat and allowed
! to hang loosely over the face, extend
| ing to the collarbone. This affords
sufficient protection, and after the first
| days of mourning may be removed
from the hat or draped in the back.
| and a-veil of fancy mesh or Brussels
net, bordered with crepe or dull silk.
| worn over the face.
r., The climate and conditions of ones
| life must to certain extent govern
the observance of mourning. 1t would
| be unwise for delicate woman to
! shroud herself in the heavy folds OF a
| long veil in hot weather. for instance.
to a girls young face hidden be-
| hind the depressing gloom of even the
shorter grenadine veil.
| 1t is interesting to note the badge OF
, world. Black is the badge of grief
and loss in Europe and America, ex-
pressing the shutting out OF all light
| and joy of life, and dominance of the
darkness and gloom of deep sorrow
| 1t was also the mourning color of the
ancient Greeks and the Romans of the
| time of the empire. Black and white
striped expresses the mingled sorrow
Grayish brown, the color of the earth
to which the dead leturn. fittingly
symbolizes the sense of mourning In
Ethiopia. Sky-blue expresses In Syria.
Cappadocia and Armenia the assured
hope that the deceased has gone to the
heaven beyond the skies.
Deep blue is the mourning color in
Bokhara, as it was in Rome under the
"kings and priests to Cod is the
mourning color worn in France at the
death of cardinals and formerly for
kings Violet Is the Turkish emblem
of grief for the deceased. Yellow, typi-
flying the sere and yellow leaf, is the
color of mourning in Egypt and in
Burma. In Brittany widows among
the peasantry wear yellow caps as an
expression of bereavement. White. the
emblem of hope. is the mourning color
of China, as it was in ancient Sparta
and in Spain until 1898. In many parts
of England it is still customary to
wear white silk hatbands in mourn
ing the death of young unmarried peo-
pie.