The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1915-03-21
BY MARGARET WADE.

lar emphasis on the difficulties of the i'm
porters OF high-class models and mater
ials for their women patrons, Washing
ton is, to all appearances, well supplied
with all the essentials of good dressing
at least for the early spring.
Although Congress is no longer with
US and official society as listed in the
Congressional Directory has played a
minor part in the season OF 1915. the
evening musicale at the home of the
President of the Federal Reserve Board
and Mrs. Charles S. Hamlin, the after
noon at home of the Countess di Ccliere.
with the uninterrupted series of teas and
dinner parties Of a less formal char
aCter all show the feminine portion of
the Capitals smart world to he fully
rrcparcd for every occasion. and accord
ing to the opinion of the average woman
and all mon I'VE have no men milliners
in Washington they are quite well
dressed as when London. Paris. and
Vienna were only a week or at most
only a fortnight away. The cargo of
the Now York arriving at the New York
customs house March l is said to have
brought to these shores the entire out
put of a dozen Paris houses that were
closed in August. but reopened in De-
ccmber expressly to supply the American
trade. Which is practically the only
trade left TO Paris now. The steamship
Philadelphia has also brought a more
than usual supply of gowns. hats, para
soils and accessories that are being
eagerly purchased by modistes and mil
liners for individual patrons all the way
from New York to California
The Countess di Ccllerc wife Of the
Ambassador from Italy. and Nine Riano.
wife of tho Amba ssador from Spain, are
tw" neutral hostesscs of the diplomatic
e,.la i,,
dress as well in manner. fSS the fash
ionahIc world.
Roth ambassadors are showing a de-
cided preference for noncolored gowns.
The Countess iii rcIcrc is wearing a
superb gown Of satin and jet entirely in
black. with necklace of pearls as her
only ornament. The satin is of very
rich weave and according TO an al
most universal fashion with diplomatic
matrons has a long. graceful train. The
overdrapery is of jet in fine, close geo
metriCal lines.
Mmn. Riano. the Youngest amhas-
SadrcsS in Washington. where she made
hcr debut as Miss Alice Ward ten
twelve years ago. is wearing white
satin dinner gown that gains its dstinc-
ton entirely from the richness of the
material and the extremely smart lines.
which show the hest features Of the two
Silhouettes now ContendnG for first place.
The skirt is narrow about the hem with
drapcry about the hips. suggesting with
out emphasizing the pannier idea.
Mrs. Clarence Moore. who was Miss
Mayhcllc Swift. of chicago. is one of the
prsscnf-day Washington leaders who has
accepted tho new silhouette in skirts.
This is shown in all Mrs. MOore's dane
ing frocks. and in a very handsome din
nrr gown of chiffon velvet in the silver
gray shade that promises TO rcappear In
cloth suits at Easter time, under the
name Of Confederate gray.
Chevy Chase" is the name given TO
tho lightest shade of a new tan color
that is being featured in cloth. crepe
and tareta. This has already found a
sponsor in Miss Alexandria Ewing. the
dehutante daughter of the Commits
Sioner of Patents and Mrs. Thomas
Ewing. jr. Miss Ewing looks charm
ing in her tailored suit of light
weight serge in this new color, with
chiffon blouse of the same tone. low
French shoes of patent leather. host
cry 10 match her skirt which is mar
row at the hem hut with pleated
back and very jaunty little coat
with high collar. Her hat at present
is = turban Of black velvet. which, no
doubt, will give place TO one of the
round sIraws as III" season advances.
Incidentally. it may he said the tur-
han is waning. and all smart hats
shown by tho most advanced millincrs
for the Faster season have brims OF
from three TO six inches. Many of
Them turn up at the back to show the
couture, but the hrim is there.
piher shades of brown which we will
hear freely mentioned as the season
advances are "knIckerbOCker, which !
has = decided tam tone. and "Mojava.
" hich is said to he the natural sand !
color Of the Arizona desert.
There ar" also new blues hy many
names. and old blues by new names. |
blue is IN" name of a |
color taken from the American flag !
melIowcd slightly and shown in satin |
and ianeta that frequently forms the |
for the midnight blue Sc
gums and spangles that are prime |
ravoritcs for trimming dancing froCks !
and dinner gowns. Mrs. Charles Nc !
'hnrd. wife Of the Interstat" Comm"rc" !
Commissioner, wears a beautiful aft
crnoon gown Of this color with it's |
"vcrdrcss Of black net encrustcd IN /
the blue and black scquins.
RattIcship gray is just what its name
impIicS-th" color Of our great ships.
painted tn match ia" dun gray sea. xnd
thus b., imCnuspicuUus as possible to
he enemy. should We have an enemy.
the color is not pretty. but
il is new. and rs worn by Mrs Joseph
] otter, who has tn" complexion of a
W clI-Cared-for baby. il is 81 ylish and be
coming Mrs. Letters gray gown is one
" tn" silk finished cloth fabrics made
for afternoon wear. with =, CAV lining
Df cherry cOiorcd silk and insertions of
ihc same Colorcd velvet forming a long
point on either side Of the clOse-fittlnS
skirt from belt to knee. This relief Of
color shows in tn" high girdle under the
fun-draped bodice. which is finished
with a vcstc" Of white lace. Thus little
Of tn" dull gray is about the face. The
hat worn with this is a large Conven-
Iional sailor Of cherry color. with sim
gle red rose laid on the top of the brim
at the left front.
Molly Pitcher blue is the revised
French blue. also the AiC" blue of ten
Years ago. Mrs. Arthur Lee is wearing
a smart and becoming dinner gown