davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

The milliners have turned to simple ef,
fects, as they have been doing OFF and
on for several years, but this season
the simplicity is not accompanied by
soaring prices. There is moderation.
Whether or not America will FOLLOW
their example no one can tell but the
milliners here. 1t is probable that the
same truly terrible valuation VIII be
put on French hats or their copies with
the explanation that the war risk or
getting them adds to their monetary
value. II the expensive plumage Is
lacking and only ribbons or bows OF
satin prevail, such as the French are
wearing now. then it will be difficult TO
demand a hundred dollars for one
hat, as has been done so often that the
wealthy pay the price without caVii.
The very high turban. by the way,
appears in the new Paris millinery
1t is the kind that was exploited TWO
years ago, and looks remarka Oily
strange in contrast with the fiat shapes
we have accepted. When several bows
of wide ribbon are added. outstanding.
then we seem to be giants. The French
have always liked this style OF hat far
better than the so-called English Shapes
which have dominated recent millinery,
and it is not unlikely that they VIII
swirl them back into first fashion.
Mile Forzanne and several leaders or
fashion over there are using this hat to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

Special Correspondence of The star
NEW YORK, August :. 1915
CT may sound silly to talk of furs in
Ill August. but those who deal IN
them are discussing the subject
g with vim.
There is much to be said of peltry at
this moment The war has caused seri-
Gus changes in the handling of II. Inc
order given out by the Russian govern
ment to- cease the export of furS from
that country has caused two sets OF
opinions here. Many furriers are de
lighted that America will have the
chance to supply an enormous quantity
Of peltry and that her trappers will not
face bad winter. Last season they
came near starvation through an order
to suspend work for some technical
reason connected with the handling of
80 many skins without market.
1t is said that much of the stock of
last year was depleted although the
retailers do not agree with this view.
because the brilliancy of the American
winter of 1914-15. with its even tenn
perature. did not occasion wide de-
mand for heavy furs. and the scarcity
or money. or rather. the hoarGlnS Oh
much of it. influenced women to be
more economical than they have been
for a quarter of a century.
There is no doubt that the cessation
Of fur exports from Russia to England
and France will give the Canadian and
Alaskan trappers a busy season. but in
normal years such a condition, so adj
vantageous to our commerce. would
have had highly stimulating effect.
Now. however. we must reckon with
the fact that it was France that pre-
pared the furs for the world. no matter
In what land the animals were trapped
ard skinned.
We were quite content. along with the
rest of the fur-wearing peoples to let
Paris shape and dye the skins until
they were suitable. Here the fashions
in shading and shaping were evolved:
here the length and breadth of peltry
formation was determined, and no one
has SO far questioned the annual verdict
as II was issued by the French houses.
which for decades have been the mas
tiers in this kind Of work.
a. 1t may seem strange to the layman.
especially the one that always cries
out for Americna things for American
people. that in Deltry-producing coun-
try we wait on France to send US back
the finished product: but Africa does
not cut. polish and shape it's diamonds
into the settings that fashionable
women prefer. That. too, Is done in
Paris. One must look at the thing from
the point of view of fashion: IT is the
ruling one.
Furs are not desired in the manner that
our far ancestors wore the skins of beasts
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
Stylish Accessories.

A N especially valuable piece of neck.
~ wear, designed to fill in a cut.
away bodice or blouse, is made of all.
over lace, with a cascading frill which
may be finished with a tiny hand-ap-
piled edge, a similar edge being given
the vandyke shaped collar which falls
over the high collar. 1t fastens at the
throat with three lace buttons The
same design could be carried out in
net and lace, or organdie, with a plisse
frill for the cascaded lace.
A very attractive neck ruffle is made
OF chenille spotted net. 1t is gathered
on firm net band, two layers being
used, held together in front by two
bands Of ribbon velvet, the uppermost
one being secured at the left side by
a small rose of pink, mauve or yellow,
according to the dress it is to accom-
pany.
A favorite rufie OF black or white
tulle has black ribbon velvet stitched
on the edge. The special feature OF this
neckpiece is a great chou or rose effect
at the back, in the center of which is
a bouquet of handmade satin roses.
from which two trails fall down the
back. Toward the front the ruffie di
minishes in depth, the chin just nest
ling cozily in the soft fullness.
An extremely smart neck ruff1e is OF
chiffon taffeta held together by long
ends Of the same, two coquettlsn roses
giving a finishing touch at the side at
the neck and one rose placed at the
center of the ends, joining them to-
gether.
A smart little muslin vest, fastened
with crochet buttons, has a fiat pleated
ffill falling over the close fitting col
lar band This Is a handy piece OF neck
WEAR, sometimes made of striped cam
brio. A sleeveless vest of tucked net
muslin. or chiffon. or with the addition
/ of pair Of sleeves would dress up the
scantiest bodice. A plisse frill falls
over the high collar. and two narrow
hlcci- rih"or velvet bands serve to holo
AZ &. hi.. collar in position.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
Fashions FOR AUGUST

m LAIN felt hats untrimmed. are
W. worn for sports. They are made
q in bright yellow, green, blue and
pink, and also in white.
Smocks are now made of jersey cloth,
and are delightfully."- soft and supple. In
spite of their fullness.
Buttons seem an odd hat trimming.
vet three big white pearl buttons are
fastened on the twilled ribbon band
that encircles. the crown OF oroao-
brimmed black velvet hat.
Beads are embroidered in a design
that incrusts the ends of some OF the
new black silk and satin handbags.
They are mounted In silver, and nave
strap handles Of ribbon or st'tcheo
silk.
Cretonne flowers are cut out and
glued on the crowns and brims OF
white hats. They make enective TRIM
hing and, of course, when they fade or
become tiresome they can easily be re-
moved with the aid of little water.
A white silk tam o-shanter hat SHOWS
a worsted cord and tassel as its only
decoration.
The new skirts in black and white
stripes. of cloth and silk, are maze 50
that the black stripe overlaps the
white. and at the hips only the black
shows. Lower, where the stripes open
out. the white Is visible.
Wide awning striped ribbons are
formed into belts. with buckles OF sill
yer or brass. to wear with white skirts
and blouses.
Crepe de chine hats are not nov
city. but there are some especially
pretty midsummer models OF this fab
rio. Sometimes soft rucning Of the
fabric encircles the crown, and some
times a little frill of it is laid around
the brim.
Jersey scarfs, in wide stripes. are
used about the neck as girdles with
white morning frOcks.
A band of straw braid Is used to en-
circle the crown of figured crepe de
chine hat.
Pockets that apparently or really
button over the belt are much used on
frocks and coats for both children and
grown-ups.
| A hat with the wide brim slashed at
each side and curled upward in two
little points is a novelty.
Buttons are to be largely used as
dress trimmings. present indications
| predict.
Big Quaker collars are made in many
materials. First of organdie or other
| plain, sheer white fabric, they are now
| made Of white or colored null and
! even of lace or all-over embroidery.
Velvet psrasols nave followed vel, ct
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

eral sheets of newspapers will answer
the purpose just as we'll. and can be
burned at once. They can be used
under crib pads also.
A chair without rockers may be con-
verified into roller chair by means of
attaching roller skates to the legs.
Take one pair of skates and cut each
skate in two crosswise, thus giving a
complete roller for each chair post. At
tach the rollers to the legs by means
of metal clip riveted to the skate top
with an upright for screwing into the
chair.
An emergency table in the sick room,
and one not often thought of. can cas-
lily be managed where there is ma
chine that has a drop head. Open the
machine and push the leaf over the bed,
and 1t will serve as a convenient table
for the person therein. square of
rubber cloth under a white cover will
protect the wood from hot dishes or
glasses and make" it look attractive.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
Picked Fruit.

G WET pickles are very appetizine.
~ whether made of peaches, pears,
cantaloupe, watermelon or cucumbers.
The manner of preserving the strip 10
the same for all. For every eight
pounds of fruit allow four pounds of
brown sugar, a cupful of whole mixed
spices-stick cinnamon, allspice and
cloves-cassia buds and a quart of
cider vinegar. Tie the spices in a thin
bag and boil them and the sugar with
the vinegar Skim and boil until
clear, then add the fruit and cook
until tender. Pack it into jars, boil
the strip a few minutes longer, then
pour while hot over the fruit. Let II
stand overnight In the morning drain
off the strip, boil for five minutes and
again pour over the fruit. Repeat this
for Ave consecutive mornings, then seal
the jars and keep in a cool place.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
To Make Vegetable Curry.

IT. AXE five ounces of butter, chop
very fine four medium sized on
ions. Melt the buttef and cook the on
ions in it until they are a deep brown.
Place on saucer in the oven a table
spoonful of curry powder and leave it
for ten minutes. then mix smooth with
little milk or cream. Add to the
onion mixture and cook gently for two
hours at least, stirring occasionally.
Cut into neat squares a small vegetable
marrow, cucumber, one raw apple.
two tomatoes and some string beans,
all of which have been cooked. Place in
the curry mixture and cook for thirty
minutes. Serve very hot with rice or
serve ice cold. Almost any leftover
vegetables may be used in the curry.
such as peas, caulifiower, etc.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

in France going their usual two-a DAY
rounds of the dressmaking houses.
Callot and Cheruit, the two houses
that always have significant IN.
fluence on American fashion, are not
vet open. The latter house always de-
fers it's openings until the others have
finished their business, although some
of the buyers do not wait for the event
1t is quite safe to assert, however. that
when this is the case the buyer who
leaves will receive all the Callot mod
els he desires
So as the huge auction sales in Lon
don are not held this year and the
Paris openings are not. over yet tne
furriers here are uncertain which way
the wind will blow by October. and
this may be the reason that even the
most important fur houses here are
selling fur garments at unusually low
prices 1t is good time for the pur-
chaser who merely wants fur; but the
woman who fears being saddled with
a garment that is not in keeping with
the fashions will go warily about buy
ing peltry now.
Yet there is hope even for her. The
world is full of excellent furriers who
cut and At a fur garment with skill,
and the price of their work, added to
the low price of precious fur now.
would not total the amount a woman
would have to pay for new garment
or neckpiece when October comes, and
she would probably get far better
value for her money. She should look
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

makers, are feeling the famine in new
cloths. No European woman would
wear aigrets today. not from sense
of belated tenderness toward the birds
whose torture they countenanced as did
the Americans by making the aigret
fashionable and high-priced. but from
a sense of sadness that expresses
itself in sober dressing. To wear jewels,
gayly colored clothes. aigrets, flash
ing and conspicuous novelties. would be
in the worst Of taste. Even the gayest
and most irresponsible set Of women in
Paris and Vienna would not so Of
Tend public opinion; 1t is certain that
such influence must have its weight on
the faminine apparel in the world.
Therefore, aigrets are barred in Eu-
rope, also other high priced plumage.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
ElEl pFUL I'm THE SICK ROOM

| ~ EFT from the druggist a box OF
II paper straws. Take one of these
W straws and bend it about three
| inches from one end. Place the long
| end in a glass and you will have a
| model drinking glass for an invalid
| This will be an invaluable help to any
one who is taking care Of a very sick
person Hold the glass close to the
patient and he or she will be enabled
| to drink water or take a dose of medi-
| cine without the effort of raising the
head.
When a night lamp is necessary in
the sick room, although bright light
would be undesirable, take an ordinary
wax candle, light it and burn until the
out the flame and cover the top of the
wax with common salt. Light the black
ened end of the wick and faint but
steady light will be given out
A wash boiler or tin box will answer
for a temporary refrigerator in a sick
room Fasten strings to the corners of
a piece of flannel and spread 1t in the
top of a boiler, tying the strings under
the bottom to hold it in place. Lay the
sary. Spread another piece OF flannel
over it and put on the lid. Bottles Of
milk or drinking water may be slipped
underline flannel in the bottom or laid
with the ice on top.
The danger Of slipping when getting
out of a bathtub will be greatly de-
creased il a nickel handle is screwed
to the wall at Just the right height to
make it convenient to be grasped for
support. Such an aid is especially help
full. to any one suffering from rheuma-
tism.
when YOU need a cold cloth and
haven't ice try wringing clotn out OF
cold water and shaking 1t briskly IN
the air. The rapid evaporation Will
give you almost an ice-cold compress.
After fastening a small sponge to the
end of a ruler moisten the sponge with
spine of the patient from the neck
downward. This will cure sleepless-
ness.
If your patient is seized with nausea
and loss of appetite at the sight ana
smell of food, take one-fourth or q
pound each of allspice, cinnamon and
ground nutmeg; mix these and put
them in a ten-inch square OF musiin
| that is fine enough to keep the spice
| on damp cloth in the oven. and place
over the patients stomach while eat
ing.
One of the very best remedies for
| constipation Is the frequent drinking
of good buttermilk, especially just be-
| fore retiring and on arising. Every
morning before breakfast drink glass
of buttermilk, and the result will be
noticed within a few days.
| When there is sudden need of rub
L. -. :ng M nci.c Is at hand, SCI
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

hats into popularity. One is made of
black velvet, with plain bright green
silk center.
Scotch plaids in silk will be used to
trim the returned petticoats which
women find necessary with the fash
ionable full skirt
There are to be some petticoats with
jersey tops, and these. of course. wear
far better than the petticoat that is all
taffeta, for new flounce can easily be
put in place of the first one when that
becomes worn.
Sleeves on some of the new evening
frocks are no more than little ruff1es,
sometimes of tulle edged with beads,
and sometimes held out with fiex-
ible wire at the lower edge.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

the exclusion Of all others, even for the
theaters, and the Galleries Lafayette
are featuring them. SO let us look for
them.
X
The shapes are not exaggerated in
any Of the fashionable hats. They are
not even first cousins to those curious
things that were adopted by the smart
ly dressed to their satisfaction and by
the badly dressed to their undoing. You
remember the hats of yesterday that
needed the most skillful posing and
perfect coiflng for their success? How
many unfortunates went down to their
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
FRILLS FOR ALL OCCASIONS
Button Trimming.

n UTTONS are to be featured in the
~ autumn styles: in fact. they are al
ready featured in the spring styles.
Big ivory buttons are used on cloth
one-piece frocks with striking results.
The link button idea is developed on
some of the new frocks. Two large
buttons are joined by a band of silk or
a cord and are thrust through two but
tonholes in the sort of standing collar
that does not quite meet under the chin,
and through the sleeves open at the
wrist.
Pockets Persist.
DOCKETS persist in fashion. They
are employed on many frocks, even
on those of the sheerest and thinnest
material. A white cotton wolfe frock
shows two huge pockets on the skirt.
their flaps embroidered heavily in white
soutache braid. Cloth suits, too, show
pockets of various sorts. and so do
heavy one-piece frocks. Perhaps the
newest phase of the pocket is the little
shirred bag that hangs from ribbons
fastened at the belt. This is feature
of many of the ready-to-wear one
piece frocks-and good feature, too
I, Two-Towned Skirts.
9 kIRTS in which two materials or
~ two colors are used are increasing
ly noticeable. The serge frock of the
spring that was made with a taffeta
yoke section was an instance of this
style. Now the yoke section has
lengthened; until in some cases the
skirt is really composed of two equally
wide strips of material The upper
strip is usually thinner-in the case o.
a silk and serge combination it is Of
silk. when net and wolfe are used it il
OF net. ,,,,t.,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

Waistline Is Now Omitted Altogether.
Straight Front and Back, Slightly Curved
Sides, With Gown Hanging From the
Shoulders, Is One Fashion Seen in the Lat
est Arrivals From Paris-With Russian
Exports Cut Off and French Houses
Handicapped, Question of Furs Will Give
Much Concern to the Carefully Dressed
Woman This Winter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

las covering. Half the world cares little
whether the fur keeps them warm; the
| object of peltry-wearing these days is TO
! add another pound of fashionable clothing
| to the person for lOveliness.
| Unless furs are as fashionably shaped
rs ones frock they are useless in the
shops No one is more bitterly aware of
this than the merchant who must invest
in the new shapes and peltries while
thousa nds of dollars worth of such mer-
chandse lies in cold storage.
The furriers to it that the shapes
change as often as does the silhouette. OF
oftener, and this keeps women either buy
ing or altering. The profits are fine, no
matter which way the wind blows, to those
who prepare furs and who are skillful
enough to rearrange petrY without much
additional expense to their staff.
Fur shaping is a serious business. The
ma jorty dislike the work and prefer to
give it over to the men who do nothing
else Fur buying is a serious business,
because no amount of money invested is
guarantee that the garment will last out
the season. AS to its being possible for
the next winter, there is rarely any hope.
Because of this condition. the dealers in
semi-preciouS furs have reaped a harvest
during recent years. Women of wealth
would prefer to put their money into
well-dyed "a nd-shaped piece of peltry
whose value did not prevent its being
thrown away when it's fashion was over.
such the colored foxes, the ponyskin
coats, the stamped moleskin, their semi
precious furs would make a good showing
during a short winter season These in
expensive furs were not of Paris. They
were made here. and some Were well made
by foreign furriers, who found trade and
high wages in this country.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

The bodice of pretty one-piece frock
has a single large rever. weighted with
Il rosebud or two.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
SUNDAY MENU
npE EEAST

Cantaloupe.
Rice Mold
Salted Markerel or Herring in Cream.
Whole wheat Gems.
Coffee.
DINNER.
Watermelon.
Cold Roast Lamb. Mint Sauce.
Dreamed Potatoes. Peas.
Lettuce and Green Pepper Salad
Peach Ice Cream.
Sponge Cake. Iced Tea.
SUPPER
Baked Beans and Onion Salad.
Brown Bread and Butter Sandwiches.
Fresh Gingerbread and Cream Cheese
Balls
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

FRocK OF GREEN TAFFETA TRIMMED
WITH BANDS YOUNG GIRLS
BROWN SERGE JACKET WITH A BROWN
NEXT FRocK SHOWS A BLUE
AND WHITE STRIPED SKIRT AND
THE RIGHT IS OF PALE PINK
A SASH
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

The precious furs from nearly all over
the world always went to France and
found their way back to the lands that
had produced them. Whether or not Paris
can take care of this trade this summer
remains to be seem She has handled the
clothes question with all her old-time skill
and not left the rest of the world in doubt
concerning the silhouette materials to
be adopted, although she will not attempt
to r~oduce her usual immense personal
trade for the women who have always
gone to her for their clothes This work
she leaves practically to America. the
only country, except the Argentine. where
fashionable clothing is sought and bought
1t may be that America will supply the
Argentine. and it is rumored that several
OF its buyers are coming to New York to
buy French models or their copies
The non-freedom of the seas has kept
the great bulk of American travellers
away from France, and there is no
reason to doubt. therefore. that the
women will buy all their clothes, in
Guiding furs, from the American mer-
chants who have representatives now
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

Your hat may be made of sstr rel
material; sH%
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08
Sour Milk Pancakes.

Stir into a pint of sour milk tea
spoonful of soda, a half teaspoonful of
salt and -four to make good consist
ency for baking. Have the griddle hot
aud well CREASED, bake the cakes in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

A hat with the wide brim slashed at
each side and curled upward in two
little points is novelty.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

Pockets that apparently or really
button over the belt are much used on
frocks and coats for both children and
grown-ups.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

Big Quaker collars are made in many
materials First of organdie or other
plain, sheer white fabric, they are now
made Of white or colored null and
even of lace or all-over embroidery.
velvet parasols nave followed vel, ct
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

Buttons are to be largely used as
dress trimmings. present indications
predict.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

When there is II sudden need of rub
L. -. .ing M mons Is at hand, SCI
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-08

Beat two eggs light and add to a pint
of sour cream, into which a teaspoonful
of soda has been beaten. Add half
teaspoonful of salt and -four to make a
thin batter. Pour in well creased waf-
fie irons. which must be piping hot.
Turn the iron the moment it is filed.
shut it and in a few moments turn
again. When the waffies are brown
on both sides, place in layers and
serve very hot, cutting through the
layers to serve. Eat with plenty of
honey and butter.