The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-30

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little requisites had become inexpen-
sive in comparison to what they used
10 be before American manufacturers
began to put up goods AS attractively
~ the :srcIgn producers and as satis-
factory for temporary use. although
lacking in the pungent. lasting quail
ties.
The shops along the Rue de la Paix
and Bond street with m above the
door that are upon the labels Of the
fiagons and little chests that orna-
meut the dressing tables of palaces
throughout Europe have left their
spell on the senses e American
women tourists. Many arc they who
while abroad have secured a tiny botfp>
Of some foreign named extract which
has fingered In their belongings long
after they have returned to the gaso-
lene scented atmosphere of home.
Many Of these goods are not procur.
able in even the great shops here and
are not known except among those
who live most of their lives abroad.
where these articles are put up in
large quantities for individual buyers I
rather than for the general trade.
There is a great deal of choice as
TO perfumes among the different ma
tons. Franco and Russia using great
amounts which cost fortunes each
year. Specialists are employed by the
leading manufacturer who spend
their lives travelling about studying
and perfecting new effects and COM
binations that are experimental with
In fragrant laboratories.
It is only within comparatively re-
cent years that Americans have be-
gun to understand the potency and
power OF perfumes and scents. For a
long time their use was considered
barharous and in bad taste. and ever
to-day there are those who shudder
without quite knowing why as some
drift Of lilac or Spanish leather comes
to them when a lady passes by their
table in a restaurant.
Books have been written that tell Of
the mysterious power that perfumes
have upon the health. the spirits and
the appetite. Invalids are revived by
them. and the smelling bottle. which
used to be regarded a. the browning
bit Of nonsense In q woman's accoutre-
ment. is now admitted to be among the
saving forces OF life.
The prejudice against the use of per-
fumes has gradually yielded to intelli-
gence. and the domestic producers are
how placing their goods on the coun-
tiers at prices which make them posi-
Die for women whose means may be
limited.
Even rouge and powder are now ad-
lnitted to he better than greasy. un-
clean looking compilations. The mod
ern way of keeping and using these
accessories TO dress places them among
the luxurious aids to beauty. But Just
as my lady's dressing room has been
made exquisite with the myriad
sachets filled with odors from Persia
and Japan skilfully softencd with orris
and powders that preserve their flower
suggestion for years the price has
SCARED. and the buyers have found that
In this particular line the foreigners
can Guido US.
Their powders especially have a VEL
vety scftness and weight as we'll as a
delicate odor that cannot he APP
preached ny our makers. The Ameri-
can made article looks we'll. but it is
harsh and dry when il is compared
with the carefully packed and ripened
foreign product. Yet the name in
which we use these wares makes tho
more temporary value Of the domestic
article satisfactory, especially for the
atrical purposes.
The Partisan cultivates her perfume
individuality. and everything from her
boots to her brougham carries its sug-
Cestion. Long after she is laid in
her lacy marble tomb in Pere lie
Chaise her books, her toilet nipple
ments and her garments will suggest
her presence.
The sachet is the ideal manner Of
pertaining individual belongings and
the duties Of the femme du chambre
include the care of this dainty luxury.
Flower scents are not so well liked
now as they used TO be. The Orient
furnishes a different variety of these
odors. incense and century year old
essences having their part in the
goods sent out over the Continent, and
in greater quantities to Russia. per-
haps, than TO any other country in
the world.
Some OF the more modern of these
scents would be astonishing to Nine.
Pompadour. although many of them
are stolen from the more simple
pomades and perfumes of her time.
II was then the fashion TO make up
perfumes at home. much as house.
wives do preserves. n there were
voinen who gained great fame for
their skill in this particular. The in
vention OF new scents and the revival
Of cd ones is now IN absorbing fad
with most of the Partisan dealers.
Musk, so long dcspised, is now
esteemed as A combination factor with
more delicate odors.
There are eXtant recipes from the
old court days. printed in French and
Italian, telling how creams and I'M
Guents can he made up from flowers
and herbs dried and powdered, mixed
rose altar and woods, such as cedar
and sandalwood This wood, long
used for fans and for small chests to
contain gloves and trinkets. Is becom-
ing marvellously popular, especially
With men who do not care for the es-
kentially sweet scents.
IL is put NJ in small bottles. sold in
the New York stores at a good price.
The Paris perfumers, however, viii no
doubt perfect it and bring ii to our
markets in quantities admitting OF a
more plentiful use and AT prices that
would help to increase its sale.
Like Spanish leather, the odors OF
sandalwood do not seem to suggost u
scent SO much as a receptacle which
held gloves or handkerchiefs.
Tit odors of the magnolia flowers