The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-06-13
Pavilion in the Palace Gardens, Seoul.
Businesslike Way in Which She Is
Waking Her New Possession Out
of Centuries-Long Sleep

morning for a glimpse Of Fusan. Hail
ing kurufnas we were soon on our way,
the unners making good time.
First II was notable that the
authorities are hard at work improv-
ing and charging the harbor accom-
modations, which will loon include a
pier for vessels up to 0 1000 tons The
japanese have taken hold Of this port
to make II a great commercial gate to
Asia. Work Is In progress to that end
in a dozen directions. and IL a great
commerce can be coaxed this way
they will be ready for 1t.
The Government railroad that now
runs to Seoul and Antung Connect
ing there with the South Manchurian
railroad to Mukden and 80 to Vladi-
vostok. Pekin or &c Moscow) will soon
have a branch to Gensan, the most
promising port OF the eastern coast
line. The railroad is broad gauge.
making the cars roomier than In
Japan, where the rule Is narrow
gauge. Other branches are planned.
There are more Japanese than
Coreans in Fusan. and even at a first
glance 1t was a $ to dinerentiate-
$4,000 Japanese, $4,000 Coreans. Fusan
for long has been settled by trading
Japanese. The better classes Of
Coreans disdain trade altogether, pre-
ferring as elegant an idleness as they
can manage. and as 1t proved they
can manage II on very little. The
japanese quarter Of Fusan Is like a bit
OF Japan, neat, clearly. we'll built.
while the Corean quarter Is shabby.
dusty, dirty, tumbledown; little shops
huddled along the sides Of the streets,
their wares spread out on mats in
front Of them. All as Of a people with
out hope or prospect In life.
The present condition Is. however.
described as greatly improved, both
as to the condition Of the people and
the aspect Of The quarter, over the
look OF things five or ten years ago.
This change Is reasonable. but there Is
much room for further improvement.
When 1t came to leaving for Seoul 1t
was a fine train that carried us. in
GLIDING a dining car with meals for
/ yen and ~ yen, not perhaps as good
as to cooking and service as in Japan,
but not bad, the price considered.
The country resembles Japan, but
the valleys are broader. Cultivation
is general wherever arabic land Is
available. You get your first glimpse
Of the great work OF afforestation in
progress under the Japanese Govern
ment.
on hundreds Of hills as o speed
along you see literally thousands OF
small black looking objects scattered
over them. These are young ever
greens, pines. hemlock, spruce. frs
destined to redeem the hills Of their
y.-- .1 nnoA N await fnraGf
land, II had. under the taxing tyranny
OF the Corean kings, become bare as
the back Of a crab.
The last mountain tree had been cut
down centuries ago.. Henc not only
timber scarcity. but a rainfall without
anything to hold II from flooding the
valleys. II will surprise n to learn
that in two years-1911-12-the jap
anese caused the planting Of 5000, 900
young trees. and as many in the W
years succeeding. 1t was difficult at
first to prevent the Coreans from
stealing and burning them; but they
stopped it-Japanese fashion.
1t is a run OF eleven hours to Seoul.
which we reached before dark. driving
to Sontag's Hotel, which in the days
before annexation was run by the
Corean Government as a house for
entertaining foreigners Of consequence
for whom 1t was no possible to make
provision at the palaces. 1t Is in the
old legation quarter and nicely sit
uated. A good bed after a long rail-
road journey and a light supper Is the
best haven in the world. You will
sleep without dreams.
Morning In the Land Of the Morning
Calm is certainly delightful at this
time Of year in Seoul. pronounce 1t
Sowl II you would do 1t offhand. but II
you want to be very elegant and pre-
else, say Sow-ool, shortening the 100"
until it Is the merest murmur. The
Japanese never get it right n so they
sidestep it by calling 1t keijo. The
air Is clear and cool, the sky blue, and
a softness that Is not enervating per-
vading ala climate for moving in a
beatiic dream on the wings Of morn
ing. Truly one walked abroad with a
lifting sense, and making one long for
that dear one Of all the world to share
the pure delight OF II.
The streets away from the legation
quarter are generally not too inviting.
The japanese have, however, taken
hold with surprising firmness and
are metamorphosing the town, making
broad n and laying the founda-
lions OF a fine city. These evidences
fix themselves pleasantly on your
senses in this morning calm.
Note this stately Corean approach
Ing you. His long, spotless white
skirts are swinging with his long
stride. His curious black gauze hat
with the truncated cont crown and
fiat brim engaging his quaint and curl.
Gus tOpknOt IL worn with MalvOlian
swagger. His long p!pestem IL held
now like a court chamberlain's wand
now like a marshal's baton. His gray
mustache and silver wire chin whisker
speak for a long life OF %dandyism: but
his expression Of we'll bred scorn OF
you and all to you belonging Is the de-
lighting caDstOne of hia rooted ma