davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
John Dyche who proposes revolutionary mail order method
of reducing the cost of clothes for WOrklng
class WOmen in small towns.

owe can beat his prices, of course,
for his manufacturer maintains gold
and white showrooms, beautiful models
and takes the buyer from the empo-
rum to dinner. For which he charges
Mr.. Buyer literally And for which
therefore the consumer must pay in
turn. SO ! believe that union friends,
at least, are go,ng to buy from the
Standard Union Merchandising Asso-
citation in preference to the emporium
of their town. They'll like the idea
of supporting the label, too, when it
brings value along with it.
eve shall have to educate the con-
sumner at first, suppose. leave that
largely to the labor secretaries"
woman acquainted with some Of
the details of the cost of production in
the clothing business, when asked
whether she were or were not enthu-
siastic about the proposed scheme, said
these two things:
81 always have and | always will
think that the mail order house is the
greatest democratizer of goods in the
world. 1t is also the ultimate COM
mercializer o. products. 1t slips out
of all Il cost of showing and persuad-
ing the new styles and new materials.
1t serves its purpose best in standard
lied articles. It has always, too, in the
clothing trade been. think, guilty OF
furnishing a sort of competition, not
in distribution. but in production that
has been classed as unfair.
But | viii. add that the idea does
seize the Imagination The consumers
label idea, the ultimate right OF the
consumer to insist on proper condl-
tions of the labor involved and to get
from materials fairly low cost, may
indeed be with us, not spiritually, but
materially"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
So August and September Points

drops half over the hips, and its fronts,
though short and pointed, fasten with
fiat, round buttons almost to the throat.
Its collar, cut in one with the back
fern, comes high against the neck, but
turns over in line with a seam brought
considerably forward of where the
shoulder joining usually comes This
scheme Of having the collar end in line
with the shoulders is followed in the
blouse Of an ivory colored serge frock,
whose side-plaited skirt is panelled at
either side by a double inverted box
starting from a V-pointed broad tab
like strip Of cloth extended to the hips
base and producing the appearance Of
a broken yoke. Both plaits and panels
swing from a doubly stitched narrow
belt, overlapped at either side-direct-
ly under the arms-by square pocket
flaps. But for a slight blousing of the
underarm forms above the pocket flaps
the belt might be suspected of girdling
a one-piece frock, for the plaits Of
the skirt, at front and back, precisely
correspond with those starting from a
square yoke of shoulder width. In al
most startling contrast to the ivory
tone of the serge is the velvet collar
and tie in royal blue velvet, whose dark
hue so near the face might not become
the wearer were there not an inside
collar in embroidered white handker-
chief linen.
Black serge has a reputation for be-
ing hideously unbecoming, and usually
il lives up to its evil name. But GER
tain girl, who has the daring TO wear
whatever her fancy dictates, fortunate
ly also possesses the art Of knowing
how to get the best results from what
ever material she selects. On a par
ticularly stunning black serge frock
she has a tall, rolling collar. whose
velvet facing comes fatty against an
inner one in white lace. This is sup
ported by white tulle guimpe, gener-
ously revealed by the widely opened
fronts of the bodice. Mysteriously
crossed at the waistline, these fronts
hide the top Of skirt which resem-
bles the lower section of a polonaise
abruptly curved off at the knees, and
its edge held down by row Of buttons.
Below the line OF this oddly shaped
upper section the skirt acquires a fare
which is remarkably abrupt in contrast
with the hatness about the hips. Yet,
despite it's peculiarties, this is exactly
the jupon to appeal to the woman who
is torn between admiration for a wide
effect about the ankles and the secret
consciousness OF having hips too wide
for gathers or plaits in the region OF
the waist.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
AMERICANS TO CARE
FOR SERBIAN BABIES
Red Cross Send Two Doctors to
Take Charge of Mabel
Grouitch Hospital.

Serbian war babies are to be cared
for in an American Red Cross hospital.
DR.. Louis Taylor Jones, formerly
director of a baby hospital at Rock
Creek Park, Washington, and DR..
Catherine II. Travis, of New Britain,
Conn, sailed for Europe yesterday on
the V. Constantinos to take charge Of
the institution.
The hospital will be known as the
Mabel Grouitch Baby Hospital, in
honor of Nine. Slavko Grouitch, wife
of the Serbian Under Secretary Of
Foreign Affairs, in recognition OF her
services for the American Red Cross.
Before her marriage Nine. Grouitch
was Miss Mabel Dunlop, of West
Virginia.
DR.. Jones will act as medical adviser
until October, when he will return to
this country, leaving DR.. Travis in
charge. On July 30 two trained
nursese will go to join them, with ad-
ditional hospital stores.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

THE little gold label that spells
4. "Paree" and its sturdier "Union
Made" relative are insignia
whose value to the clothes-wearing
public is in both cases a disputed
point. For the Paris label costs mi
lady mint, and often flaunts itself on
mere native New Jersey products; while
the union mark in its twenty-five years
Of struggle for recognition is still
among the climbers. But while the
Paris label is still an unsolved prob
lem, there's a labor man gone ahead
and started something that will put
the union label on its feet. And his
bigger idea concerns reducing the cost
of living for the workingman and his
wife.
John Dyche, for ten years secretary
of the international Ladies' Garment
Workers Union. is the man. And a new
sort of mail order business is the plan,
the plan by which he expects to give
the union label its just recognition and
at the same time to provide union
women with just the clothes they want
at just the price they can pay.
From the New York factory to your
home" is Mr.. Dyche's idea, which at
first reading sounds just like any other
mail order business.
But it isn't. For Mr. Dyche pro-
poses to eliminate most of the things
that ordinary mail order houses greatly
stress, and that all wholesale houses
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
AT SOUTHAMPTON.
lBy Telegraph to The Tribune. ]

Southampton, Long Island, July 10
A meeting of the board of governors
was held this morning at the summer
home of Mrs. p. B. Wyckoff to elect
officers, appoint committees and outline
plans for the dog show next summer.
Harry Pelham Robbins was elected
president; Rufus L. Patterson, vice
president; Henry D. Whitfield, secre-
tary, and George Barton French, treas
urer.
The new governors are Harry P. Rob-
bins. Miss leila de Milhau. Mrs. Peter
B. Wyckof, Mrs Harry W. McVickar.
G W. Curtis, George Barton
French. Henry G. Trevor, J. Lorimer
Worden. Henry d. Whitfield ard Rufus
L. Patterson.
Mrs. Peter B. Wyckoff was elected
chairman of the committee of arrange
ments, and will be assisted by Mrs. H..
W. McVickar, Miss Celia de Milhau.
Mrs. G. Warrington Curtis and Mrs.
Harry Pelham Robbins.
The patronesses for the 1916 show
will be Mrs. Henry G. Trevor, Mrs.
Goodhue Livingston, Mrs. j. Lorimer
Worden, Mrs. Sydney S. Breese, Mrs.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
Two thousand last week!
Thirteen hundred this week!

thirteen hundred THIS WIEN.
This is the programme of The Trib-
une Fresh Air Fund for a fortnight.
Part of it has been accomplished; part
Of it is in the making.
Between July II and II two thousand
boys and girls, tots of from five to
twelve years o. age, were taken from
tenement homes and all that that I'M
plies.
They were sent to the antipodes.
Two hundred and fifty more made the
same trip yesterday. More than thou
sand others will join them by Friday OF
this week.
II was not TO somewhere in the Ant
arctic Circle they went. The antipodes
of a city tenement is a farmhouse set
ON a hill where all the breezes OF
heaven can get at it-trom the garden
gate of which stretch miles upon miles
of smiling country summerland.
Oh. it was hot in the tenements yes
to-day and the day before, and last
Saturday and Friday. The man or
woman used to a comfortable nome
would scarcely have survived the tor
ments Of those days in such surround
ings. Words cannot describe what me
jewellers in the congested districts had
to endure.
These are the worst days of the year
in the dwellings of the very poor. That
is why The Tribune Fund is stra1nlng
every nerve to send as many children
as possible away from them at this
time. ,,I
More than three thousand children
roscued in two weeks is not a bad rec
ord as such things go, but think what a
pitifully small number it is in compari-
SON with the whole number of children
in the tenements who cannot. escape
the horrors of the place where fate mas
left them. -
They cannot escape; they must De
rescued if they are to have relief. Ihey
cannot be rescued unless kind people
viii open their purses and their hearts
to support the work of rescue. II kind
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
How Not To Be Awkward
How to Hold the Hands-How Not to Fidget.

she tried ner habitual poses before the
mirror. She noted that even when as
suming the nonchalant air of buttonlng
or unbuttoning her glove she kept her
elbows in a rigid line.
"Not successful" was her honest de-
cision in The matter. 81 never before
envied the Venus de Milo"
After some effort she attained well
balanced idea of just how to grace
fully dispose her hands and arms when
entering a room.
The next thought that occurred to
her was to find out what she did with
Ter hands when at table. SO she
placed a small table and chair before
the glass and tried her appearance
again.
For it's better" she concluded. ito
make a circus of ones self in the pri-
vacy of ones boudOir than to be a
show in public"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
n x It's Raspberry Time x

raspberries into each portion just be-
fore serving.
Raspberries in Iceland.
Melt one-kalf ounce Of leaf gelatine
in a pint of milk with two ounces Of
loaf sugar. When the sugar and gela-
tine have thoroughly dissolved, allow
the mixture to cool and then add the
whites of two eggs whipped to a stiff
froth and a wincglsssful of sherry.
Whisk the ingredients until very stiff
and mould in a pan with tube. Chill
and turn out Of the mould. Fill the
centre with fresh raspberries and
whipped cream slightly sweetened.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

dress for a cause. Remember, the
union label hasn't failed by any means,
but it has been slow, and, relatively, to
the increasing number of union MEM
bers, it has lost ground, though &C
tually it has increased its field"
"And what about the retailer, the
owner of the Main Street Emporium,
where are concentrated all the styles
there are for the women of Oshkosh
and Goshen 2"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
By ELSIE CARROLL.

TT OW not TO be awkward is a ques-
I'll ton often equal to What shall
/ do with my hands?" If the
latter is settled, in nine cases out OF
eleven it will settle the former prob
lem.
Business Of opening the pocket
book" exclaimed an observant man
who was idly watching the women en-
ter public dining room.
His companion turned her pretty
head. 81 think ! enter a room very
well she half stated, half asked.
Another woman, third in the trio,
answered:
"No. You don't. Yo- keep your arms
too close to your body, and, not being
over stout. it makes you look straight
Up and down, like an exclamation
mark"
When the first woman reached home
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

gsbardine model-in the fashionable
marine blue-whose skirt, laid in clus-
tiers Of side plaits, alternating with
single broad "boxes," practically form
ing panels, swings from yoke whose
lower edge runs TO four sharp points
Over the top edge of the yoke which
also forms a raised belt, drop PAIR
Of square pocket flaps. outlined wi'h
self-toned soutache. the sole trimming
of skirt whose bolero's fronts are
eIaborately braid embroidered.
This bolero is among the most extern
sive Of its Vi since its loose BACK
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
Almond and Raspberry Ice Cream.

0CALp three cupfuls of cream with
- half a cupful of powdered sugar
~ Remove from the fire and add
the beaten yolks Of six eggs and scant
cupful OF almonds that have been
blan:hed and pounded. Cook in
double boiler until thick, take from the
fire. flavor 20 taste with kirsch and
freeze in the usual manner. Freeze
separately raspberry juice that has
been heavily sweetened. Pack in lay
ers in a plain mould and bury in salt
and ice for four hours.S Press fresh
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

HATEVER else the fashionable
w girl may have wearied OF. she
w cannot justly complain that
her skirts are so much alike that she
NAV as well wear one Of them as an
other of them. For among the newest
models are skirts of widely different
STYLES, vet each one exactly suited to
the Jacket or the blouse which goes
with il. With a belted jacket in CAB
ardine. somewhat on the sports order,
though much shorter, goes p circular
cut skirt Of severe plainness. 1t could
not possibly be more unlike a second
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
When the Trade Union Wife and the Con-
summers Label Mail Order House
Meet, What Then?
The High Cost of Dressing. Says
the Man Who Will Introduce
Them to Each Other, Will Be-
come the Least and Not the
Greatest of WOman's Trials.

spend thousands Of dollars for. His
advertising will not cost him any
thing, for example, for the $50 labor
papers in the United States will carry
on his publicity with great vigor, and
the labor secretaries will supply him
his mailing list He will have no show
rooms; he will have no statesmen. In
short, since the merchandising of an
article including all
the stages after its manufacture until
il is in the hands of the consumers
the most expensive process a whole
saler meets, Mr.. Dyche merely reduces
the merchandising to its smallest de-
nominator, which is correspondence
and delivery, and that of course makes
the consumers price shrink.
"And just where does the label come
in ?" Mr. Dyche was asked.
shall touch nothing that is not thor
oughly unior lied. which is to say, moth
ing that cannot be bought at a better
price and better value than its nom
union competitor. The union label has
so long been an ideal; now it's to be a
practical reality.
up to now, you see, the union label
has in some cases stood for good prices
and in some cases not. So that a
union man or a union sympathizer
sometimes got his moneys worth and
sometimes he didn't. Well, that sort
of thing does not go in daily affairs.
You can't buy clothes for ideals; you've
got to buy them for value. 1t takes
sacrifcial martyr spirit TO buy his Sun
day suit with the flame of righteous
ness burning bright; and you never
could get his wife to buy her spring
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

~ HAT the day of the hand-painted
watering pot has arrived? If you
4 would be strictly up TO date in
the matter of gardening tools the tin
watering vessel which has a thin coat
ing of white or green paint must be
done over with enamel lustre, and when
thoroughly dried hand decorated with a
spray Of your favorite flower. Some
times a sentiment suitable to the posey
is added. The fashionable watering pot
holds about two quarts of fluid, tas a
narrow but very long spout and a high
arched handle. In every respect 1t dlf-
,ers in appearance from the substantial
affair which your gardener has for real
use among the growing flowers.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
Country Welcomes 1000 Tots,
But Has Room for Many More
All That Is Needed to Rescue Tenement Children
from Their Swetering Homes Is Money
SIS Will Send One.

hearted people will give the money
there is nothing 70 prevent the sending
of every child that needs 10 go TO the
country away for a fortnight.
The Tribune Fresh Air Fund could
double the number to be sent away this
week if the funds were at hand to meet
the slight expense There is no lack OF
country. There are miles upon miles OF
it where no child ever runs. There are
homes by the thousand in 1t where the
latchstring hangs out TO any childish
hand that can get near enough TO pull 1t.
Ii costs less than So TO give a tene-
ment child two weeks in the country.
This is not fiction; it is stern TACT
There is no exaggeration Of need here.
the picture is greatly underdrawn. IL
you believe in the need help send the
children away; if you don't, spend the
noon hour to-day walking in and out OF
tenement hallwsys.
CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE TRIBUNE FRESH
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
Do You KnOw?

"HAT for the weekend visitor VINO
cannot conveniently carry other
luggage than a small handbag
there is no extra blouse nicer than the
one in habutai, since it may be rolled
into the slenderest of bundles and Still
not crease? The girl who goes away to
stop from Friday evening until Mon
dav morning at a quiet hotel can man
age perfectly well with a pair OF these
houses to wear with the skirt Of .er
tailored suit. The one needed for tennis
or golf should have loose short sleeves
and a wide, fat-lying collar, while the
blous. needed for formal wear might
have sleeves to cover the wrists and
surpliced-crossed fronts.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

- THE report Of the State Board Of
Charities is accepted, a personal
seapegoat for the admitted inefi-
,;,nt, intOlerable administration on
p.,s,n's Island does not bear the face
.,Nrs. Dunphy, former superintendent
the Chldren's Hospital and Schools.
After careful questioning of Com.
u;,.;Oner Kingsbury's inspectors, the
,,r.jejsns and other employees of the
;.l,pd. II is indicated by the charities
,onmi,tee that the pernicious air of
~, island had two fundamental causes
and that the charges against Mrs. Dun
rsy could not be substantiated by an
;mpartial Investigating committee.
The roots Of the problem lie in two
,hases Of the administration, the over
,-owding and the custom of the courts
which placed side by side for care the
delinquent and the merely dependent.
siree there is no Matteawan for feeble
minded the practice of the court so
arises.
Point by point the Board Of Inquiry
pOinted out the obvious flaws in the
nresent treatment Of committed chill
dren. They drew attention to the plac-
inc Of men and women, at $40 a month,
into the responsible positions Of caring
for the children in the community most
needing experts. Ten dollars month
j, the wage Of periodic and semi-re-
sponsible drunk" Of Migrants. So much
for the angle on the problem slanted at
BY The board. Better buildings. better
supervision, surely, were and are at
fault.
The Fact Remains.
No investigation, however. can re-
move the other patent fact, that Mrs.
Dunphy tolerated intolerable cOndi-
lions.
at is time that the attention Of the
public should be given to the problem
Of the feeble-minded," said Mr.. Robert
". Hibberd, secretary Of the State
Board Of Charities, chairman Of the
State Commission on Provision for the
Mentally Deficient and former Com
missioner Of Charities in New York
City.
100000 Detectives.
There is a deal Of excitement over
the possibility that 1000 mentally de-
fec.ive children on Randalps Island
were no; given all the care that they
might have had, but have we begun to
worry over the fact that no provision
at al is made for over 100000 mental
detectives who are not on Randall's
Island, but are al large in the state?
They are the peoples problem, the
vomens problem especially. l know
Of no task that the women of this state
could set themselves more important
to the welfare Of the state than the
task Of securing adequate care of the
mentally deficient.
Special Guidance.
I'VE must realize this: these feeble
minded children and adults, over 20O,-
600 Of them in New York State alone,
cannot possibly lead happy and useful
lives without our special guidance and
care
More than that, their presence
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

I0faI july II. No - y
Contributions preferably by check or money
order. should be sent 20 the InOuhe FIesh Ar
Fund The Tribune. New York;
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20
By Sarah Arlington.

II HE little gold label that spells
l. "Paree" and its sturdier Union
Made" relative are insignia
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

TO THE TRIBUNE FRESH
AIR FUND.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-07-20

I'VE must realize this; these feeble
minded children and adults, over 200,-
900 OF them in New York State alone,
canno. possibly lead happy and useful
lives without our special guidance and
care
More than that, their presence
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-02-17
STATES ATTORNEYS Are
DENIED RIGHT TO REPLY
CONTINUED FROM PAGE EIGHT

the presence In the court room OF Hr.
H. G. Ogden. editor OF the Intelligen-
ceT. who Well designated as the owner
OF string Of newspapers. who was
busy giving publicity TO the states
side OF the case. and said that be and
rs associates were not trying the
case In the newspapers.
State Shut on
Al the conclusion OF Mr.. Wells ar
Snment. the master intimated that he
thought he had no discretion In the
matter and would allow the attorneys
OF the gas company TO 20 ahead with
the case on such lines as they saw AZ.
This meant. in effect. that the aror-
neys for the state would BE- denied the
privilege at this time OF Offering any
evidence In rebuttal TO the charges
made by the witnesses for the gas
company, and that another line OF
evidence would probably be present
ed from now on. dealing with the
technical questions involved In the
whole case. However. - is possible
that other witnesses may be called
10 testify later on along the line OF
testimony that has been given during
the past FIVE days. To say that the
decision OF the master Is a great dis
appointment for the attorneys OF the
state II putting II mildly. They had
made preparations to put on a case
In rebuttal immediately and expected
70 nave the privilege OF doing so.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-02-17
Why Is 1t Difficult to Walk
Straight With My Eyes Closed?

The reason We cannot do this al.
ways IS because when We walk natu.
rally the steps taken by our right
and LEFT feet are not o. equal length.
This difference ln the length Of the
steps 81 due To- the fact that our legs
are never exactly the same length.
We think ~ them generally as OF
the same length but they are not.
and this viii be- proven ~ you meas.
ure them accurately Now. then.
the longer Of the legs will always
take q longer step than the shorter
one. and 10. if our eyes are shut.
We walk On circles. unless we have
something 10 guide u.s. When We
walk with our eyes open We are
able 20 overcome this tendency 20
walk IN circles. because our eyes
help the brain % direct the Iora on
n straight course. The matter Dr.
that our eyes are very necessary DO
keeping our bodies balanced on our
feet and 90 o. very dimcult 10 learn
20 keep the body balanced with tho