davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-08-29

top of sleeve and again at the wrist. A re-
turn to another old fancy is evident in the use
of great gaugings in mounting coat and dress
skirts. Heavy in effect but distinguished.
DUTCH REVEALS.
Barnards best efforts are usually given 20
the perfection of womens tailor costumes and
garments. but this season he has demonstrated
equal taste and skill in little silk dresses
charmingly youthful and novel productions
For example. a "Rubens' frock Of wondrous
shade of pink, in shining velvet, with a square
economically designed, low cut and short
sleeved corsage OF flesh colored tulle en-
broidered in silver and straightly closed with
silver buttons The very full velvet skirt as IT
Joins the round Corsage is gathered over
thick cord Similar elegance and simplicity are
achieved in blue taffeta, lightly shot with palest
pink. Il is belted with silver and further
adorned with two admirably placed pink roses.
To add grace upon grace, the skirt IS lined with
mink silk and finished with an under frill OF
finely pleated pink tulle A pretty Parsienne
has ordered several Of these dresses built on
the charming Dutch model; she declares she
will wear with them only Dutch ornaments, and
now she is ardently engaged in seeking the
correct objects in gold silver and colored
stones A trimming for new Barnard skirt
Of soft black silk. effectively simple, is realized
BY two one-nch wide machine tucks, placed
several inches apart; the edges OF the tucks are
stiHened slightly by an inside cord.
Richness Of color contrasts rules in the
Bulloz collection For example, dress of soft
pink satin and tulle, edged with bands OF sable
fur and trimmed with pink roses and Mus
coyite" dress Of dark green silk, with big
ribbon sash Of shaded green and long pocket
slashes of rich embroidery. An evening dress
Of blue tulle was prettily adorned with quaint
ties OF pink roses, shaded by the tulle over
dress. A "Marquise" dress Of white satin, PINK
embroidery and gold lace trimmings was ex-
ouisite. And another of pale blue tulle and
coral silk.
Among the successes of Nine. Jennie's is
counted a "coachman" dress, buttoned straight
up and down in front and with proper collar,
double cape, huge cuffs and hip pockets.
Imagine the dash Of it!
"Polichinelle" collars, "schoolboy" and ''vag
abond" one piece dresses are charmingly youth
full. and fetching is long loose, belted coat
with great cape sleeves.
The new, high crowned hats dispute suprem-
acy with the large low crowned hats that dis
placed the small. round ones so long in favor.
But the newer forms. the position "giron-
din" and in fact all the "Drectoire' forms are
more in harmony with the new tailored
costumes. A silk plush-coyered Directoire hat
sponsored by Talbot, has the crown OF It
circled by long, blue ostrich feather. dropping
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-08-29
French Co~triers Have Pre-
pared Their Supeive FasddiousmeS1ay Mod
Subtle Reserve and the Dark
CIR C0lors i'm the Models for Their Own Womem---
All Keep. UP the Spirit of France

of silvery gray satin. In fetching contrast is
a little dress named "Polichinelle" made OF
the new stiff black satin-it is really the old
satin Duchess but woven rather softer. This
new stiffness makes it stand out in delightful
fashion, according to the latest edict. 1t has
a short, full skirt, with the front breadth
shirred in the middle to the depth of two or
three inches; the side breadths are trimmed
with clusters of two-inch tucks, narrowly
edged with velvet ribbon machine -pleated into
tiny fittings. The little corsage, very simple
and straight in line, is fastened at the neck
and again at the belt, but left open between to
show line of the chemisette made of gold
embroidered lace laid over white tulle. The
straight, not very high collar curves low
as it meets in front. Long and close, the
sleeves are separate from the armhole of the
corsage.
Every house has its own method of sustain
ing the fitness OF evening and afternoon
dress skirts. Monsieur Weeks has designed
new petticoat for this purpose; it is quite
scant and inside the hem, under two or three
narrow pleated frls, is run a soft, slender bone.
Above the knees it is attached to a deep yoke
of strong net and narrow white ribbon
strengthens the few seams.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-08-29
~ Margaret McKenna-Friend

an .,- ~ .t.. -.,,--r .sro.+ nd %
e. - - '-,.,s;.;o,s Frsnch-
i - ,,.;,l ,,.. ~, 49, ',,s,,a1 at+e1+ion
~. ..-...-..,,, Inn. -,s+,--li,, ,.itb the changes.
~ .1o e.-;7l ,.orl5 t-org5+ about bv the pres
--;.;. g., r-,,,.e chic e.o,gr.,s ,y;ll he Of
i.a.o-.,. ..,,,-,,+s- thar, Leree,-orc r &c quite
$50 ,t.- Tho ,,or-e, or The FRENCH Grand
.,4 ,..;ri f-o,,.- o-, ,.,,, -,d. ,rat aDnroaches
--..:-. -. i-.... ~ .or,b;nat;o1 of
...l- --..--..-, d..-;-.- .t.... ,,,h,-o, +;r,ee
IHE FOkLiJN IFADA'
Since the pa-isien7e never eeiects her autumn
aud ,..,-+e- ,,.,-5-,be ,;l late in October, it is
-l.,- cha. . 4r,,,,, wonderful dieolav Of modes
made this month by I'll the great designers OF
Paris is primarily intended Tor their ioreisn
clientele. ia it oo.o- r-lca supreme ana
greater variety oi modes have never seen oi'-
played his variety is not altogether peas
ing in all its details. picturesque. 10 De SUI
bat in tie effort 60 pro-1ce no'eiues mere -
danger of expanding into the realms Oh up
hosiery decorauon-a slrcHaTsement OF iIlilS
and turoeiows and meaningless loopings' WIN
modest but ominous. bust-es and skirts hugeiy
c.stcnded above pettcoats strengthened by
wives and ha.rcioth. However this support
ing medium IS deity hidden and the general
effect is soft and Hou TO a degree. In many
cases much i-.ncs is concentrated on the side
brcadt5s and kept in place by strong under
stitches. the prouading effect desired IS gained
by leng,hwse 5oning. One example OF a new
skirt, short enough to show the pretty ieet
dressing gives an impression Of considerable
length by reason OF the irregularlty OF outline
at the hem. This fancy particularly notice
able among the productions of the Maison
Redeem. IS expressed in a sharp POINT at eacn
side It is douoiy emphasized IN a SKIRT OF
lovely violet velvet with tour points the TWO
back and front shorter than those on the SIDES
Alysys f., his element in de7l;ng with
historic .F.-,s M pa5f.r, ebo,ys this sea
son eo--. ~ r,is -,o.+ s,,ocessf,l DESIGNS Par
+.,.,,-l, .l-,;..d , ,,,,,.., ,,,i.a .C,-;sold,
which he b-e made or ,of. thick qrav
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-08-29
BULLOZ MODELS.

Monsieur Bulloz achieves this object by
band of horsehair. attached to an upper part
ending at the knees with an effect quite SIM
liar; but, in general, the bone run into the hem
seems the favorite method. At this house
short, full jackets with clever fare at the
back, are Endorsed. They are amazingly
youthful. One of the prettiest examples is OF
blue cloth. trimmed with wide band of heav-
lily ribbed black silk; the ribs have the effect
OF coarse stitching; the same trimming is on
the edge OF the full skirt. Monsieur Bulloz i'm
presses on his customers high chokers OF tulle
or lace, edged narrowly with fur; quite after
the manner Of the old instrument of torture,
these collars are very high and perfectly
straight, causing the chin to be held high
A favorite color combination OF tile season
prominent at this house is dark blue and soft,
tender cerise color used in the belt or cravat
and in cunning touches that fash into being
in unexpected places. Reddish purple and blue
and blue and reddish brown, also dull brown
with blue are already favorite combinations OF
color. good color effect, and original, was
noted in a costume Of blue cloth with lining
of pale gray cloth; a long narrow sash, oddly
arranged, was lined with the gray stuff, and the
big collar and loose, wide cuffs were made OF It,
All shades OF gray, all shades Of purple, and
much white with black adornment will COM
pose evening and dinner toilets for the French
grandes danes Always these colors have
been counted as second mourning in Paris, and
as nearly every one will be wearing mourning
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-08-29

top Of sleeve and again at the wrist. re-
turn to another old fancy is evident in the use
of great gaugings in mounting coat and dress
skirts Heavy in effect, but distinguished.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
Port Cotton Movement

New Orleans: Middling. 7%c; recepts, 9009 sales, 4650; stock. s60, 65s.
 Galveston: Mddling, Sc receipts, 22.666; exports, 57ss: sales, 1899; stock, 555.s02.
 Mobile: Middling, 71ac; receipts. 243; sales, 800; stock, 5S,013.
 Savannah: Middling. 7Ac; receipts, 13,- s04; exports, 25,Sss; sales, 1882; stock, 321- 923.
 Charleston: Middling, 7ssc; receipts, 17Si; sales, 100; stock 139.524.
 Wilmington: Middling, 7ssc; receipts, 1349; stock. 46.534.
 Texas City: Receipts, 43l5.
 Norfolk: Middling, 7a4c; receipts, sl56; exports, sS73; sales. 1927: stock, 64,470.
 Baltimore. Middling, Sc; receipts, 24S1 exports, 2657; stock, 696s.
 Boston: Midding. s.0oc; receipts, 233 stock S965. Philadelphia: Middling. s.s5c stock, 1874 New York: Middling, S.10c; exports, 2323 stock, S7,297. Minor ports: Receipts, 22sS4s stock. 174,, 952. Total today: Receipts s1,2s2; exports l 40, 474; stock, 1.S21, ,0S0. 1 Total for week: Receipts, 4S5,se2; ex ports, 241.072 1 Total for season: Receipts, 5,572, ,6s5; ex 1 ports, 30S6,029.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
WEEKLY COTTON
 MARKET REVIEW
Reactionary Tone Follows New High Records of
 Past Week

New York January 15.-After making new high records for the season early in the past week with active months selling more than s6 a bale above the low level of last month. the cotton market encountered increased offerings
 There appeared to be more selling by trade interests and houses with south. ern connections which led to the belief
 that hedges were being sold against spot supplies in the interior, while the appearance of such pressure, combined with the extent of the recent advance imparted quite a reaotionary tone to the sentiment of local traders. Reactions of about s1 per bale have been followed by renewed firmness dur ing today's trading. however, while investment demand again became moro active on the failure of hedge selling to become either urgent or generaal reports of an improving demand in the domestic goods market, talk of nereas- ing activity on the part of Manches- ter spinners, and further advices from
 the south tending to strengthen expec-
 tations of a much reduced crop next season.
 The census figures on supply and dis tribution for December showed increas
 ing consumption by domestic mills as we'll as relatively small stocks in the hands of manufacturers at the begin ming of the year leading to predictions of an increasing or steady demand from
 that source during the balance of the season, while the continued heavy move ment to the ports. and the large for
 warding from the Liverpool stock have
 suggested continued activity on the part of exporters.
 Clearances of 22s.oss bales for the week against 294,303 last year, fell rath- CT short of expectations based on the large amount of cotton reported on ship board at the close of business week ago, but fluctuations in the exports are attributed largely to the uncertain sup ply of ocean tonnage.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
NETWORK MARKET
 IS AGAIN FIRM General Cotton List Closes Steady at Net Gain of ' to 12 Points

New York; January 15.-Cotton showed renewed firmness today with March con- tracts selling up to within ? points of the recent high record, and with the gen. eral list closing steady at net gain of to F points, as compared with the closing quotations of last night.
 The market opened firm at an advance of to points in response to relatively firm cables and private advices attribu- ting the strength in Liverpool to a better trade in Manchester and increased calling by spinners. There was some further selling here for southern account and some of the larger spot interests ap- peared to be selling a little october, but the offerings from such sources were not heavy enough to suggest any general weakness in the southern spot situation. After showing a net advance of about 10 to II points, there were moderate reac- tions under realizing and continued trade or hedge selling. with the active months selling off or points.
 The pressure, however was at no time active or aggressive, while there ap- peared to be 8 broadening of western and local investment buying on the de- cline, with prices reaching the best point of the day in the late trading and clos ing within a point or two of the top.
 Reports of continued steadiness in the southern spot markets helped the mar ket during the afternoon. while buying was also encouraged by the heavy spin ners takings.
 New York Cotton Futures New York, January 15.-Cotton closed sfead1.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
OSCAR FULGHAM BURIED Former Sheriff Bravely Defended Ne gro When Attacked by Mob

Huntsville. January -tSpecial)- )-The body of ex-Sheriff Oscar Fulgham, who died in Birmingham Wednesday night, was brought to Huntsville this afternoon and inferred in Maple Hill cemetery. with services by the Rev. F. l.. Wear.
 MT. Fulgham was 57 years old and was a bachelor. He was sheriff of Madison county in 1900. when a mob stormed the county jail and took out a negro named Clark. charged with criminal assault, and lynched him. Sheriff Fulgham defended the jail bravely against the mob of sev- eral hundred and they finally got pos session by sneaking in the back way and setting fire to a barrel of tar which sent suffocating fumes throughout the build ing.
 The sheriff stuck to his post and was found unconscious and almost suffocated During recent years he had been con nected with the Southern railroad and with the internal revenue department.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
EXPLOSIVES FOUND
 IN STUDENTS ROOM

New York, January 15.-Police today found dynamite and nitroslycerine suf ficient to wreck several city blocks in the room of George Cesare, a former Columbia student under arrest on a charge of stealing a valuable micro scope. Cesare had become 50 worrie ] lest atmospheric conditions set off the explosives that he told his fears to 9 fellow prisoner. who in turn informed the police.
 Officers found the room fitted up as scientific laboratory, with many evi- dcnces that the young man possessed remarkable knowledge concerning high power explosives. One document found indicated that Cesare had invented an electrical fuse which he had offered to the United States government for $100,- 900, and that 1t had been tested at Fort Hamilton. There were several plans for submarines, and for underwater fuses for torpedoes.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
FLOUR PRICES ARE
 AGAIN ADVANCED Week-End Sales of Produce and Commodities Prov
 ing Satisfactory

Flour prices were again advanced yes- terday 10 cents per barrel on the Bir- mingham market. This places Michigan four at $S05 and Tennessee flour at $6S5 Spring wheat flour, however, was ad. vanced to S.75, or 55 cents above for. mer quotations. The advance of whea quotations on the Chicago market is held responsible by local dealers for the ad vanced price here, and the steadily in creasing export demand is accountable fol high prices prevailing on wheat product. in America. Prices generally are firm other products are proving satisfactory.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
STILL HAS
 TENDENCY ID SOAR
The European Demand and Farmers Holding Reserves
 the Cause

Chicago, January 15.-European demand with no sign that American farmers were ready to part with reserves sent wheat up again today. Corn also was affected The May wheat option commanded d phe- nomenal value, $1454 a bushel. Closing prices were unsettled at 1iac to aisq2A above last night. Corn finished slsashc up. oats at a gain of 1is@1l4c. and pro- visions unchanged to soG32ise higher.
 Export clearances of 1,449,oo0 bushels of wheat for the last 24 hours. a rate that threatened to sweep the big terminals fere, formed hint enough for bulls. Liver pool quotations also had jumped and vir- tually the entire floating supply at Buffalo was reported as having been laid hold of to meet the wants of Belgium. Sales to foreigners today were estimated to ex- ceed 2000,00O bushels Meanwhile there was no pause in the buying by millers.
 Export corn sales increased to an esti- mate of 1,50o,o00 bushels. The sudden ex- pansion generally was regarded as neces- sary to supplement thrilled orders on other foodstuffs. notably rye. Oats re- flected the strength of corn. Provisions hardened with grain and hogs.
 Chicago. January 15.--Grain and pro-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
Censorship Established

New York, January 15.-Announcement was made today for the telegraph com panies that censorship had been estab- lished at Fl Paso Junction on messages to and from Mexico. Code would not be accepted, 1t was said. and messages must be written in English. Spanish or French.
 
 fleece medium wools are reported at better prices and fine and fine medium territory has been steady.
 Foreign markets both in the colonies and in Yorkshire are stronger this week and South America has advanced again on the cleanup of stocks in Buenos Aires and Montevideo.
 Missouri % blood, 29Gs0c; A blood, 290 BOG; braid, 25c; Kentucky and similar, # blood. unwashed, 29@30c; $ blood, un- washed, 3Ods1c; X blood, unwashed, 30 @3lc. Secured basis: Texas fine, F months, 57@5Sc; fine months, 56057c.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
NEW ORLEANSIS
 STEADY IN TONE No Great Volume of Bllsi- ness Done and Bulls
 Are Shy.

New Orleans, Jannary 15.-The cotton market displayed marked steadiness to- day, although no great amount of business was done and the bulls were not much Ill evidence. Offerings were scanty and buying came in steadily, much of 1t ap- parently coming from outside traders who were impressed by the idea that the great advance in the price of grains would cause heavy planting of grain crops in the south this spring at the expense of cotton. The market closed within a point of the best of the session at net rise of 13 points,
 The large forwardings of cotton to mills from Liverpool, reports from Manches- ter of a better business in cloths and continued good reports from spot centers in the south were the main bullish feat ures of the session. Early in the day there was considerably bearish talk about liquidation of long cotton, but prices were not depressed below the level of yesterdays close.
 Expectations of a heavy export move ment during the remainder of this month held offerings of short cotton down to small proportions.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
RECOVERY MADE STOCK MARKET
Dealings Larger and Move.
 ment Broader, Although Restraint Is Still Felt

| New York, January l5.-The stock mar |ket made a very considerable recovery today from it's inertia of the early part rof the week. Dealings were larger and the movement broader. Standard or rep resenta tive shares made little progress however, and were under pressure throughout the session. This restraint .as ascribed to foreign sources, which are believed to have renewed their efforts al liquidation.
 Most of the prominent international is |fues, particularly the transcontinentals |1he metal stocks and United States Steel |tef1eeted this condition. Canadian Pacific being the only notable exception. That ftock became very active in the latel trading, rising almost 3 points from its early low quotation. Missouri Pacific sud fenly became extremely active at great Pr advance on rumors of substantial finan Eial backing.
 Important geins otherwise were onct more confined chiefly to the special clas. Il Ipf stocks, in some of which were evidence. |lpf pool manipulation American Linseet | lfommon and preferred were materially af | lIected by the high prices quoted for tn, | Jaw products. American Tobacco, Con N solidated Gas and the Automobile ant billed issues rose from 1 to 3 points, ant here was a 5-pont gain in Virginia-Car 'ina Chemical preferred. Westerr Jnion's continued strength was explained i py it's very favorable annual statement Best prices and greatest activity were wit
 iessed in the final dealings.
 Forecasts of another large cash gain by local banks were accompanied by a reduc l ion in 60 and 9o-day loans to and 3i Ter cent, all longer loans being made or IN 31e per cent basis Foreign exchang, Ifas higher on cessation of selling of Lon
 lon bills. New York and Philadelphia of Hlered lower terms for prime commercial
 aper.
 Another advance in wheat options t,
 fighest quotations for some years gav
 Additional point to the extraordinaril. Ihrge shipments of foodstuffs during tn
 urrent week. Present indications sug
 Hest another huge excess of exports ove IImports for that period. Bank clearing
 Disclosed more normal conditions at lead Hng reserve centers. 5s..- H Bonds also broadened with an increa SC,
 emand at higher prices for various con
 ertible issues, including Chesapeake an.
 phio, Baltimore and Ohio, Southern Pa
 fife and Missouri Pacific.
 Total sales, par value, aggregated g,
 P, ,O00.
 United States government bonds wer
 unchanged on call
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
DOCTORS Doziier Doziier Specialists
Nervous. Blood. Skin, Rectal, GeuIfo- Urinary, Female md Chronic
 DtseaseA

We treat scientifically chronic nerv- ous. blood. skin, genito urinary and fe- male diseases. also cancer, scrofula rheumatism and morbid condition of the heart. lungs. liver. kidneys and pel- vic organs of men and women; and by reason of long experience, modern methods and excellent facilities, effect cures in as short time as possible and with moderate expenses to patients.
 We furnish medicines without extra charge, and give our patients the bene- fits to be derived from X-Rays, Violet Rays, Ruby Light Baths, Medicated Vapor and Nebulized Inhalation and everything that we can make available for the speedy cure of our patients.
 914--the famous German remedy for Specific Blood Poison--is scientif- ically administered by us.
 Our Medical Institute was established in Birmingham over 25 years ago and Is one of the best equipped medical in- stitutions in Alabama.
 We make no charge for consultation and examination.
 offices 2O2O1s First Avenue
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
Bonds
Mercantile Paper

New York, January 15.-Mercantile
 hper. s1s@4 per cent; sterling exchange |rm; 60-day bills, $4.s1 58; for cables .S5; for demand, $4.S3.S5. Bar silver Rc. Mexican dollars. 3716c. Government |pnds steady: railroad bonds strong. Time bans soft; 60 days, per cent; 90 days |N per cent; six months, S14@31a per cent hall money steady; high, 21a per cent; rul- hg rate, ? per cent; last loan, 2N per [snt; closing bid, 2 per cent; offered al I4 per cent.
 London, January 15.-Bar silver, 2g 13-16d .er ounce: money, 1 per cent. Discount |ttes: Short bills, 2ls@2h per. cent three
 Sonths 2H per cent.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-01-16
IMPROVEMENT IN
 BUS|NESSF ELI.
Confidence Is Replacing Un- certainty, According to
 Bradstreet

New York. January l5.-Bradstreets will say tomorrow:
 Conditions in trade and industrial quar- ters re awakening to improved impulses while confidence is replacing uncertainty As yet actual business has not gained the pace displayed by the spread of optim- ism, orders being of the steady, pro- gressive type. rather than spirited How ever. conservative Improvements Is re- fieeted in a number of lines. and while orders calling for immediate shipment continue to dominate. there is more dispo- sition to pin faith to the future.
 Bank elearings for the week Were s3, : O79, ,7o4, ,o0o. a decrease of 10,7 per cent from last year.
 Wheat exports were a,l29,199 bushels, against 6.713. 2S9 bushels a year ago.
 Failures in the United States were eoa compared with 4l3 last year. in Canada, 62 compared with 6t last year.