Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-18

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
NEW YORK. July II.
60HERE is again the excited talk
anent Paris openings. the abil-
III ity of her people to design, the
q reason why the American peo-
pie should attempt to design their own
output of clothes for a season, and all
the other gossip of that kind.
This kind of conversation has been
brought to the forefront of news for
the last three years. but was crystal
1ized into Il vivid issue when the war
started in Europe. At the first of Au-
gust the new fashions had been ere
ated. so all that the model houses
had TO do was to mobilize a force of
people to make the gowns that were
ordered by the American buyers.
This is much easier to write about
with 1lmness now than it was then
IT locked for a time as though the
skies had fallen on the dressma king
world. Panic ensued. and naturally.
Millions of dollars were involved. 1t
was quite easy for the theorists to
say that Americans should invent new
things, but 1t was like asking baby
to walk when it could not stand.
Well, the war openings" and their
success are history. They smacked OF
the courage of soldiers.
Then last February came along.
Again the agitation was started. Sure
" there was no need for American
buyers to go to Paris. after having
had six months in which to try to
grow wings But possibly the wings
fhoyy had not
been asked to grow; at any rate, the
buyers took their lives in their hands
and sailed for the danger zone.
They got caught there through the
first period of the submarine scare and
came near not getting home for sew
ranted. And now. here's the old story
cropping up again. IT is July. ana
gowns will be ready in Paris for the
autumn openings. In June it was COM
openings: that the dressmaking houses
were paralyzed; that there was no pos
sibility Of getting cloth enough to
make up model clothes to show the
considering Paris as center for new
fashions were quite absurd, and the
risk was too great.
However. along in June came the
usual letters from the great houses.
led by Worth, saying that the usual
number of new frocks would be ready
for inspection. Lo, every one knew by
that token that Paris was ready for
business. and as long as she delivered
the gowns to buyers on the spot just
80 long would she set the fashions for
the world.
Trade has its heroes-many of them
women-as we'll as peace has its vic
tories, and submarines or no subma-
rines, the buyers will be there to see
what Paris has to offer. not SO much
because they have faith or lack of
faith in America to design its own
clothes. but because, being shrewd mer-
chants. they know that our people will
ask what Paris has laid down for the
winter: and should they find out that
Paris did set the fashions and our mer-
chants were not there to see the act,
they will hesitate to buy what is Of
fered After all. the final verdict al
ways lies with the public.
Naturally. there is no way of speak
ing with the voice of one having au-
thority this early. No one but buyer
of merchandise in large quantities is
very much agitated. for women don't
want new clothes until the last Of Sep
TENDER: but they like to have their
ears to the ground and know all the
gossip.
yt "a oos,y1 To