Evening star., 1915-03-22

substitutes which are really not hair at
all. One CT these is a fiber from a
South American tree. called yunio.
1t has a thin inside bark which readily
separates into fbers OF reddish brown
tint. bearing some semblance to human
hair They are not durable. however.
and are used only in cheap articles.
! such the rats and switches found
In the ten-cent stores. Hemp is also
used for these articles. and wool when
su omitted to a Strengthening process is
used for still better grade of goods.
Manufacturing human hair into the
articles added to the feminine couture
is an elabora te
Improved Machinery process. Il Will
Sorts Human Hair. ~ tho future
by several machines recently invented
in this country, The hair is first wash
ed. dried and sterilized. 1t is then
sorted for length by a sort of carding
machine. After this the different
shades must be separated. This is
most important of all, because several
shades may he taken from tire same
head. but the woman no pays q high
price for a switch wants il to be abso
lutely uniform in shade
The long eest hair. which ear be iroNen
into the best switches for hraiding. IS
most valua BILE. although shade and
quality are also considered. Naturally.
curly hair may bring . slightly higher
price than straight but the demand for
straight hair of good quality is always
strong. The mechanical devices for
curling hair are SO much improved a S
to almost rival nature. Light hair in
undesirable shades may be dyed. Hair
dyes have been greatly improved and
are now almost permanent. but nat
ural shades are always given prefer
ence If they are known. Short hair
Is made up into cheap switches, puffs,
transformations and the other articles
included in the feminine hair arrange
ment.
1t is rather odd to note that heads
must be made to fit the hats rather than
hats to fit the heads, s might be sup
posed. When the large hats were i'll
vogue it was quite usual for the mil
liner to send a customer to a hair
dresser for another set of puffs,
switch or a coronet braid. or some
other piece of artificial hair. which
would enlarge the apparent size of the
head This year the woman wearing
the small hat has had difficulty in
slowing away the hair nature has real
ly bestowed upon her.
The small coiffure came into vogue
prominently last year, just about the
time that the European war shut of
the supply Of importations for the
American hairdresser. 1t may be con-
sidered timely for them. The war de-
veloped the craze for the Tommy Atkin
turban, which necessitated sleek,
boyish style of hairdressing that rem
dered most women independent of any
hair save that growing from her own
head.
1t has been observed for years that
the small hat is apt to accompany the
skirt that is narrowest around the bot
tom. The skirts last summer and fall
were tighter than for many years and
the Tommy Atkin turban reached the
limit in small hats. Now the skirts are
being widened and Dame Fashion has
already announced that the large hats
will be prominently in vogue for the
spring trade. Already some Of those
shown for the Florida season almost
approach Merry Widow" dimensions.
The large hat calls at once for false
hair and the American hairdressers are
preparing to meet the coming demand.
In addition to larger supply OF un-
manufactured human hair to be e1-