Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-10-07
WHAT To PLANT IN AUTUMN
surprisinr Number OF Trees. shrubs
ind PcrcnninIs Which Grow In
Fall M wen ns thc spring.

Autumn has well been called natures |
second spring. but how few gardeners
seem to make the most of this opportun- |
itv. always overlooking the important |
fact that a number of things may be |
plontcd To much better advantage in the
fall than i'm the spring, while others are
planted fully as well In the fali as III
the spring, thereby leaving more time 10
attend to the innumcrablc details Which
must be done in April and May, writes Ia
X. Parkinson in the Boston Tfanscrlpt'
Another fact worth considering Is that
with many classes of plants II whole sea-
son may he gained by planting this au'
tumn instead of waiting until next sprlhs'
Possibly one of the reasons why 1all
planting is not more generally practlceu
is bccattec most of TIE things to be set
ont in the autumn are trees, Shrubs ana
roots, and to the average amateur gar
dencr there seems to be decp-rooteo
fear of attempting to planr either trees
or shrubs in any case; which Is an abso-
lutely groundless idea but remains never
thcless. TO be sure. Il tree or shrup
costs more than many packets or seeus'
but it lasts for many years. whereas the
seeds must be sown every year or two
at the outside
1t will be well for the autumn gardener
to bear in mind two things. The first that
some Of the things sown or planted IN
the fall have to mako a considerable
growth before freezing sets in, while oth-
ersx remain dormant until spring. Inc
second, that certain plants which may
succeeded finely when planted in the IAN
| in one locality, VIII fall in another, al
though the conditions appear to be lden-
| teal. In this latter case, observation ana
| experience must be the teachers, as well
| as the hardness of the winter and CHAR
acter of the sumner season. In localities,
for instance where long dry summers
are tho rule, fail planting will usually
give the best results with all classes OF
plants for which the winter does not
prove too severe.
As a general principle. then. the classes
of plants suited to fall planting include:
Shrubs--An sorts Of hardy decorative
varieties. except the cvergreens.
| Trces-Both towering and ornamental
except those which have very thin bark
such rs the birch and beech and those
whose roots are large and fleshy, like TIL;
magnolia and tulip tree.
Fruit Trces-All kinds. except the stone
fruits
Perennials-All hardy herbacaeous sorts
usually found in the hardy border
Bulbs-All the hardy bulbs. such as tn
lips. hyacnths. narcissi, hardy lilies, etc
Roscs-Rugosas, hybrid perpetuals anr
hardy climbers
Seeds-SuCh ANIMALS as are self-sowint
under favorable conditions. Sweet peas
sown so late that they will not start. an'
covered deep in n well-drained situation
will come up much earlier in the sprin:
than seed sown in April.
In all autumn planting the question o
| winter protection Is most important. an
the care with which II is done will deter
mine the success of all fall operations
The object Of winter protection is t.
3 guard against the alternate freezing ant
f thawing, by Keeping them frozen; to pre-
2 vent their starting too early in the spring
] and to protect them from bright sunshin
e and cold. trying winds. The point then
. is not to mulch the beds too soon, or I
/, smother half grown plants with too muc
I. mulch.
t The use of the right kind of materia
- in mulching is essential, and it must b
$ of a nature to protect and shade tn
plants and soil, while admitting air an
|. not absorbing too much moisture. TIL
II best materials are dry leaves, meado'
o hay. and light. dry. strawy manure
Meadow hay and manure never use fires
manure will stay in place, but the leave
- will have to be held down by wire netting
either put around the bed Din the case {
a small bed) or laid over it and pinne
down. Mulch should never be put on III
til the ground Is frozen hard and continue
cold weather has set in. AS to how niue
covering to put on. about six inches wi
u generally be sufficient except in the col,
u er sections of the country, where eight {
y possibly 10 inches will he required.
! Having decided what is to be plante
> and sent the order, prepare the soil ar
have everything ready by the time II
II plants arrive SO tn there will be l
II delay in getting the trees or shrubs
> perennials into the ground.
II Too much care cannot be taken in pr
III pairing beds for such thinEs as will o
ie cupy them for several years. The BET
or borders for perennials shrubs, or bull
may be made by tronching two spad
deep and working in n goodly supply
IL Well-rooted manure as thoroughly as po
sible. In setting fruit trees or ornament
trees. try using n stick of % per Ger
dynamite. 1t is perfectly safe TO hand
and the results are infinitely better tn;
- whore the hole is Gug by hand. Whe
the hole is dug with a spade, it should
four feet in diameter and three feet dee
taking care to brcaE up the sub-soil. b
u not to mix it with the upper or top so
Put in plenty of manure and incorpora
10 thoroughly with the soil. Where the s.
n Is heavy and poorly drained, some SC
ID of under-drainaCc must he provided.
I'd small beds this may he done by diggi
+ out to depth Of three feet and ,hrowi
N in a foot of broken bcick. stones or &C
mt ashes,
\ word as to how deep to plant. Tire
. and shrubs should be set about two inch
deeper than they stood in the nurse
~ row. Pcrcnnials about the same dept
v those having crowns, just deep cnou
to have the crowns show. Bulbs are I
ortcl planted too near the surface. Sol
kinds, such ~ California lilies, ilumbold
nd WashinEton;anum, etc do best when
from 10 to - inches deep. llyaClnths,
40 lips, narcssus, and similar large bul
i, from four to six inches deep and I
-, smaller bulbs n hit shalower