The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-10-03
WAY LEA TO PLANNING FALL WARDROBE
Early Doubts Over What the Myste-
rious They" Might Be Wearing
Settled by the Best Designers

, ItIt vi INV SIeeNe Is vi sim, ClOSe
fitting at bottom. but widening to
meet the chiffon upper section. which
widens as IL descends. so hat the
widest point Is at the elbow. The
little chemisettc and collar are of
chiffon embroidered and trimmed In
lite buttons. and an odd frill or run
OF wine velvet stands out from the
collar top around SIDES and back. A
hip yoke across the front OF the
skirt IL Of embroidered chiffon and
below 1t the silk falls straight and
only IA little full. 1t is in the back
hat the model departs from conserva-
tism. AS will be seen from the sketch
there is n deep narrow yoke OF chiffon
with turned back corners or wings
faced with velvet. The bodice fits
trinity and joins the skirt in q corded
seam at the waist line. The plaid
skirt, full in the middle back. Ia
draped high owe the hips, the jaboting
fail being faced with velvet. The
drapery il a little above the widest
point of the natural figures hips and
partakes slightly of the hustle. widen
ing the wearer's figure. from q front
view, only a little.
The other draped back in the same
group has the drapery arranged much
lower. but there is the fiat middle
back. in this case marked by n long
slender piece Of lace. and the drapery
flares out toward the sides. There
is, however, no fulness right over the
hips. The extra width is laid in flat
plaits slanting sharply backward from
the waist line and fiaring below the
hips into the drapery indicated in the
picture.
Many backs are made interesting by
cape arrangements, deep or shallow.
and in anything from velvet to tulle.
or by skilfully manipulated trains. a
lumber OF lovely evening models arc
entirely Of transparent or semi-trans-
parent stun such as tulle or chiffon,
save for Il swathed girdle and eparate
little train in silk or velvet. The frock
is made comfortably short and the
train may he caught up over the arm
for dancing.
There are other trained models. more
stately and evidently designed with no
hought of dancing; but even these
are usually rather short in front. This
makes for comfort IL not for grace and
we have grown so accustomed to this
snort front. trained back idea that II
does not offend the eye as 4, did when
the short frock first stormed fashion
centres.
Irregular skirt bottom lines are ap-
parently as we'll liked as ever. though
to-day the irregularity i the skirt
is likely to he supplemented by the
fulness Or frothlness Of some sheer
petticoat.
one French firm that has recently
opened a New York branch shows q
very full skirt, falling in straight folds
in back and front but fiaring and much
shorter ut the sides, over "A lace I'M
derskirt that is also short. The same
firm Is responsible for n velvet skirt,
curving up a little in front Ia show
just n tritle of full satin trousers which
reveal their character only when the
wearer IL in motion.
Hip yoke effects Of various kinds
continue to be popular and many
clever ways Of securing this effect
have been found.
Jenny has among her many simple
and wearahle one piece frocks n model
in velvet and chiffon whose full chif-
fon upper skirt section has a fiaring
velvet lower section tina. runs up on
the chiffon in what may perhaps be
best described by the paradoxical
term blunt points. So full Is the
whole skirt that one does not notice
the slender, long points of chiffon
running down into the velvet, except
occasionally as the wearer moves.
The velvet sections end at hip yoke
line with a little dull metallic tassei
for finish. There Is a little tassel at
the bottom Of the narrow, plain flesh
colored chiffon chemisette in the taupe
chiffon bodice and a very little dull
metal embroidery is used on the
sleeves.
This frock Is fairly typical of a con-
scrvative, practical class Of afternoon
frocks in which Jenny has excelled.
Other houses have contributed charm
ing models of the same sort, but Jenny
has turned out quantities Of such mod
els with clever high collars. sleeves
Of the new wide elbow sort. full skirts,
simple bodices without blouse, but not
tightly fitted: narrow belts and a gen.
eral air of modish simplicity.
For wear under the new long coats
such frocks Will be invaluable, and
though the rather severe all velvet