The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-04-25
q, ELEANOR WoyT RpAI>ERD.

one is at last beginning to
have "A clear idea of what is
On bc worn as well as of what the
designers have shown
ON the whole the situation seems
rc,ssuring. but 1t is unquestionably
IN the dressy frock for evening or
formal afternoon wear that the new
,,odcs are at their best. Occa sionally
ono sees a very good looking street
fror, Of an extreme type and some OF
tho streets suits built on aggresslvely
rcG,sh lines are attractive. but the
average woman of good taste has
edopted denatured versions OF the
new seasons silhouette for street
uear and the women more daring are
not. as a general thing. very success
ful in their ventures.
on the other hand there seem to
no quantities of charming frocks on
view at the restaurants, the theatres
and the various festive functions that
are being crowded into the last weeks
before the summer exodus. The pref
,iest of them are concocted very
largely OF lace or tulle. and that fact
accounts for their charm. The full
ness and bouffancy of the new skirts
loses any hint of awkwardness or
heayiness when interpreted In airy
,,uffs. and IL necessary one can even
,e,ain the suggestion Of clinging lines
no using a close underrobe as a back
Ground for frivolousiy billowing folds
cr founce. Of semi-transparent ma
terisl
Even when the tullc or lace skirt
- (,,s stt,A oil
as great fulncss 1t may he tolerable.
There IL. for instance, the quaint black
and yellow frock from Paquin. which
appears in our large sketch.
The upper part of its bodice and its
,onr close sleeves Of black lace are
simple and clinging. but from the bust
line down It flares riotously. First the
neach color taffeta bodice--an eX-
onisite shade. half yellow. half pink
aares out below the Hat black lace
surplice folds in a crisp little plated
peplum. shorter in front than in the
back and bound narrowly in black.
Below that long. very full over
skirt Of black lace. running down to
noin, in front and back and up at the
sides, fares still more audaciously and
black tulle turned upward from the
edge-an edge. by the way, slightly
stlfened to emphasize the flare. Under
this overskirt Is a short petticoat or
black tulle. which also flares. though
less widely than the .overskirt. and Is
finished by "A wide ruche OF the tulle.
spray and long tendril of roses Is
80, among the folds of tulle at the
left side Of the overskirt.
All of Paauin's models are radical
n their silhouettes. At least one may
saw this Of all of her models sold to the
trade. What her private customers
NAV call for and obtain remains to he
seen. As a result of this pronounced
newness. what has been said above
concerning evening and street models
n particularly true Of the Paquin
creations. The dressy frocks of tan Ia,
lace. tulle. from this famous house
are generally speaking. adorably PIC
turesaue and attractive. Inc trocks
and suits for simple wear leave some
thing to he desired.
one trick Of Paauin's many dress
makers are copying. This Is the lining
Ct full skirt with contrasting Color
cossibly trimming the under edge In
sore way and. II the ultra short ana
full folds do not reveal TINS unuer
orn,mentation enough. catching up
the hem slightly in at least one pace
number OF the Pauuin tanetas
eyplolt this idea one which many OIL
,be importers brought over is in a
delect,ble shade of blush mauve or
ninkish blue and has the bottom oil l's
mi short, ruched skirt faced up WIN
CAV cerise along whose edge are SET
little clusters of roses in colors tohlhs
IN with both the frock SILK ana inc
lining. IT,,
Another full short skirt of eel pluf
t,ffeta is faced for eight inches Win
very narrow overlapping pinked rms
NJ orchid taffeta. among whose frlli-
,ess tiny roses are tucked here ano
there.
Flowers are used in many ways OF
the evening frocks. Wherever inc
oyerskirt is caught up-as II Is sc
often caught up in one place or an
other one is likely to find clusters OF
flowers. They nestle in ruches ana III
bodice frills. They ornament girdie'
and finish the ends of ribands. tsu-
ally they are Of diminutive size bu'
Cabot uses large full petalled roses on
several of her models, a. do worth
and Beer.
on the cirdle Of a dainty white tune
and silver lace frock these small flow
ers afford the only note Of color and
are posed upon wide girdle OF silver
tissue. At each side Of the front OF
Mis- grdle graceful trailing spray
nj flowers falls from the girdle tor
N a point several inches below me
bottom Of the girdle. These spray'
a-" securely fastened toward the top
Nlt left free to sway as they will be-
low, and tho effect is very good indeed
On this frock We find again thu
broad turned up plated frill Of tull'
huShinc the skirt bottom. and the
only other trimming Of the full white
illle skirt is band of silver lace W
each Of Is sides. The whole jacket
Ike bodice is of silver lace, save fol
full Chemisette OF tulle.
The simplicity of this model and Tho
,aSn with which II could he COPIED
should recommend it to the woman
VINO wants "A smart dance frock mad,
a. home.
Another delightful frock in white
ana sllNer-a scheme favored as mucl
Tor some purposes as black Is foI
r. has the Comparatively narrow
n'derSkIrt ard wide fure above, whici
j. concession to womens affection
,o' tHn" lines Many OF the best