Evening star., 1915-10-25
Gray and Silver Gown by Cheruit.

did not proclaim themselves across the
street, just as she has believed that
drapery swung around the body is more
| effective than ornamentation gotten
through the application of another col
or fabric. It is because she has fol-
lowed these creeds so successfully
through her costumery that her gowns
rarely go out of fashion. Barring a
few minor details that have to be al
tered, one can wear a Cheruit gown for
seasons after it was made.
| Her clothes appear to be more simple
| than they are. One who goes through
| the world without a personal maid, as
do SO many Americans, even when
| there is plenty of money to have one,
| has a difficult time with typical
Cheruit frock, yet, after the drapery
! is well adjusted and all the hidden
hooks and eyes made to meet, the ef-
| feet is that of a gown that might be
slipped over the head and could be
fastened in the dark. Whether the
same lines without her presence is not
easy to tell, for nothing shows SO
quickly in the making of gowns as the
absence of the master mind. The abil-
ity to make ones touch felt through
any medium proclaims the master. No
subordinate, no matter how well train
ed and drilled in the same turn of
mind, can achieve the same result.
In Gray and Silver.
The suit brought over here from the
house of Cheruit shows, however. in a
most comforting manner. the SAME
usage of moonlight colors that we are
used to see from there. The material
of the suit is gray velvet, the fabric
of the bodice is silver lace. The two
assembled together make up remark
ably lovely costume.
There is something reminiscent in
this coat of the one she put out last
autumn. That rolling collar is the
same; 1t was launched from this house
early in August and was not taken up
by the other designers until last spring.
It is more exaggerated now than then,
and is. therefore. more in keeping with
the Girondist styles with which we are
by now tolerably familiar
The coat is longer than the majority
Of the new models, and it is only grace
full over a skirt that is reasonably
narrow Do not make the mistake of
putting long, full coat over short
full skirt The average figure looks
rather ridiculous in the combination.
The American designers, the best of
them, have insisted with quite some
success upon a moderate width in the
hem when the skirt Is mass Of swirl
ing fabric. and the effect is the proper
one. The lack of weight Is also con-
sideration to any woman.
The waist line is indicated by loose
girdle that runs through slides at the
back and sides, tying care1essly in
front. The skirt is entirely plain. The
sleeves are long and put into regula-
ton armho1es, trick which Cheruit
has always advocated. Even when the
world of dressmaking went quite mad
over the kimono sleeve, this house went
against the verdict and continued to
use small armholes and sleeves that fit
the arms.
Metal Lace for Bodice.
The woman who is in doubt about the
kind of bodice she should wear with
her best velvet coat suit. which she
should keep for formal afternoon af-
fairs. might do well to copy this idea
of a silver lace one, provided she places
the metal over something transparent
and soft
Flesh pink chiffon and net serve we'll
Gray chiffon is good. The harsh threads
of the bullion fabric must be softened,