The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-09-05
Russian Influence on Fashion Still
Felt, Though Not So Strongly
as Last Year

I, from the front Just enough to allow
sinking the chin in II. Or 1t may
stand out sharply, front and back,
after the fashion of the sealskin col
lar that was a feature of the green
velours coat sketched for this pag
Whatever the exact shape, the fact
remains that any one who has even a
comparatively small quantity of good
fur car find Use for IL In the collar of
an autumn coat, even though the fur
does not appear elsewhere on h suit.
Braiding and embroidery. often self
colored. aid the fur in many instances
or are used where fur Is dispensed
with.
A clever handling of both the braid
and fur trimmings IL illustrated in the
brown suit pictured here. The coat.
like 80 many of the new coats, has the
unbroken front line, falling fairly
straight. but Is given the side curves
and held In at the sides by embroid-
cred pocket flaps heading fiaring skirt
, f~ulness. The collar Of fur. high and
soft, is ined with bright hued velvet,
and a corner of this collar turned
back in front affords n splash OF the
gay coaar against the sober brown.
The coat buttons run up the collar
side, implying that the collar corner
has been carelessly turned back.
may be turned up at any time, pre-
senting an unbroken line of fur.
This line Of buttons is at the left
side and continues down the oat to
the bust line. Just inside 1t is a
narrow band Of brown braiding and
7 heavy gold embroidery, which Is on
tinued to the coat bottom, and just be-
low the base OF the. collar the narrow
band of braiding and embroidery Is
supplemented by a wide band OF sim
liar trimnSag running down to the
bust line. There Are braiding n m
broidery on the fo,ket flaps and on
the cuffs and the modal.. though by
no means SNOWY or ~pres.atious. has
much Elegance and would look well in
velvet.
Brown is evidently viewed favor
ably by the designers and importe.e.
for there are good models In all the
modish shades of brown. from the
light beige and tan shades To the
African brown, which Is even darker
] than the familiar tete de negre. With
fur, braiding or embroidery and a
touch OF bright color or metal 1t APP
pears again and again among the m
ported models, and some OF the love-
lest costumes shown, so far. are in
velvet OF the light brown with a faint
p,nkish tone, trimmed in dark brown
fur and braiding or embroidery.
There are charming frocks, 100. in
light brown veNet. one good model
in such material has a skirt draped
slightly on the sides to give a full hip
flare and an Uneven line at bottom. the
pronounced side fu.ness falling in
fiaring folds below the point where II
is tucked up. while the front and
sides fa.l straight and. OF course.
longer. There is a narrow edge of
dark brown. fur around the skirt bot
tom and lines OF the fur trim the front
OF the simple bodice, opening over a
chemisette of tulle. A narrow brown
velvet ribbon holds up the high fiaring
full collar of tullc. The bodice II
the dropped shoulders with long
sleeves OF chiffon fu.led !Ito velvet
cuffs, and the gold buttons give a
bright noe.
one sees a good many of these gold
buttons, an echo probably OF things
military. and c.everly used they very
effectively tighten the sombreness of
some otherwise entirely
dark. Sc many OF the smartest ma
terials this fall are extremely dark
in zone that the hint Of gold in but
tons or braiding II not overdone comes
as a welcome relief.
Steel embroideries appear too, though
the milliners have done rather more
without steel than have the dress
makers. a great many OF h best
looking French hats being trimmed
only by some original ornament in
steel beads.
But to return to that light brown
velvet frock. Its tucked up skirt
drapery is a phase of the mode that
mas come somewhat as a surprise,
though in view of the increasing ten
dency toward side flare Of coat skirts
and emphasis upon hip width 1t should
taave surprised no one. The widest
line Of the silhouette has in many
cases moved up from skirt bottom TO
hips. and though there are still p.enty
Of wide skirt bottoms a-swirl. there is