The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-03-21

grapes and gervals produced the I'm
pressionists.
Russia has the reputation OF being
the epicure of the nations. II is sup
posed to e out secret service men
disguised in sable and high boots like
stage nihilists, who seem to be book
ing suspects for Siberian exile when
they are really %cornering the best yield
Of the vineyards.
They get the finest cigars. the most
exquisite pictures. the ~loveliest rugs.
the blacklist pearls and the sweetest
music. And so one would think they
would know the best things To eat.
wouldn't one?
You would expect that among
these springing bronzes and tremen-
dous green o thoughts you would
find menus Of Partisan marble
streaked with primrose yellow and old
Chinese blue.
You might dream Of breakfasts OF
yellow wine and scarlet strawberries
with brown coffee snd amber Ciga-
rettee. Or Of frozen dinners for hot
nights served on wistaria walled ter
by passionate eyed slaves while
mighty zithers sounded together with
h plash Of sullen waves against
sombrs rocks.
And 20 I hoped to get that sort OF
thing in the way Of menus and 70
have the Prince tell me just how TO
mix tho caviar and lemon on the
hrown bread and II rum were best
with tsa in It or not. md how much.
and II Il were right 10 say teaspoon
fus or teaspconsful.
md I thought we might sit on low
embroidered prize deus with bowls OF
pale narcissus about on the floor as
one does at Edmund Russell's and
talk ike Her1nione in THE EVENING
Sun.
But the Prince had already two
entirely correct afternoon tea persons
not ~ ali like mode,s-revolving
around the studio taking the usual
patter as to Maltese be!ng an idiot
and hawthorn porcelains coming into
their w at last.
And It seems he doesn't consider
food al all except in a vague sketchy
way that means something must he
eaten now and then, and-when YOU
can't escape it-there are dinners
with dishes that you must dodge
cleveriy.
Meats Of ali kinds Troub~tzkoy alb
hors He associates them with lead
bodies. cemeteries. morRues. dissect-
ing rooms. a frolicksome lamb chop
in It's simple paper frill flls him with
loathing.
There Is something revolving about
a steak to him. He thinks OF the
original cow-happy. sad orbed. moo
ing In the twilight while being PACED
by an antiseptic farmers boy In white
duck.
You 80 her going home happily
" the lea with her fatted calf frtsk-
ing along by the stone wall and then
how can you contemplate tho idea
Of a oroiled steak with anything but
feelings OF hate?
That's the way an artist feel.
about II. and now this Ia the secret
bond between the Washington Square
studios with the Ash nets and the man
DARN coats or the piano and the little
Italian table d'hotes where the ancho-
vfes are served one al q time and
tho ravioh beckon through the Glcam
Of Macdousal alley.
Prince Troubetxkoy admits the viz
tues OF the famous Bortsch soup,
which IL the national pride, but he ir
not ovcrenthurastic about Il. wen
whom T. u done without the use Of
meat Juices.
IL IA. however. . wonderful soup
and Il IL made best IN London AZ the
Ritz, and possShly they make II at
tho Ritz hero. In other places 4 does
not seem to have tho punch. The
Fenoh chef does not quito like he
idea Of putting sour milk in q soup
tureen, although ne will put whipped
res on tho top Of a II Of clam
bouilion
You canno mako soup without .
stock. which Is ehe not Foundation
part q Il, and this stock can b made
from boufllon tahletA from vegetable
eBencas. strengthened with vino and
! spfoaA Prom this you build up the