The Washington herald., 1915-02-03
NEW YORK
FASHION
LETTER
by
A4RH La ROClLIE

Stripes are going to hold very
definite place in the fashions of the
next few months If indications are
to be trusted. They are judiciously
used in the newer models, and nave
much style. much significance.
These new stripes are inspired
doubtless, by the Directoire element
in fashion-an element that has been
present, in many guises, even dis
guises, ever since last summer; an ele-
ment, likewise, that has been called
on many times in the past, since
its establishment in France after the
first fall of monarchy over a hundreo
years ago.
Black and white stripes were the
most striking. the most characteristic
of the stripes of the Directoire pc
rIod and they are most prominent to-
day.
However. coIored stripes are en-
ployed, too. One interesting model Is
a silk afternoon frock, of dark brown
and white, with stripes of four or nNe
widths symmetrically arranged, Ihe
skirt is cut with much fare, and the
stripes meet diagonally in seam
down the center front-a treatmeh.
that calls for care, but that IS oouilu
to be effective If nicely carried out
The full skirt of the moment sNIs
great play to these stripes. a ~ IIA
of black and white silk, OF heaES
w.avs Is made in circular fashion, so
tbat at the back the stripes run
STRAIGHT across the figure, and AT the
front run directly up and down. rms
ts boldly planned skirt, but II Is
quite successful. ,,,-
There are some good stripped SILK
,,oI1as-voile in silk. cotton ana WOOL
has come to the fore again. Dy Ihe
n,a,,-tbat are made up for afternoon
80 and in warmer weather Will
,aLa admirable frocks for garden
marty wear Usually. when these
yoiIes are in black and whlte' Iheg
are made up over white One that Is
worth mentioning rs made with iuli'
tucked underskirt-an oVersklN cut
straight, and tucked in at the waist
and hips SO that the blacK sur
ahort an inch wide-meet at the
waist1ine. This manipulation OF the
stripes is very good.
The overskirt. like most OF the black
and white striped skirts, is finished
With a hem of black: satin in this
case. although it is sometimes OF vel
vet. And the skirt in question Is scar
1oned at the bottom-so the hem Is
scalIoped. The uneven line at the low
er edge of the skirt. made uneven
either by scaIIops or points, Is per
sistent thing and one that is highly
desirable in a circular skirt. For 1t
takes a combination of sartorial art
and arm fabric to make the hem OF
circular skirt proof against saggins.
Tucks Again.
Perhaps the revival Of tucks is in
line with the use of stripes, for well
defined tucks give much the effect Of
stripes.
| The other evening 1 saw charming
debutante's dance frock, made Of taf-
feta, with a fiaring skirt gathered in at
the waist. There were four tucks of
graduated width around the skirt. But
| the graduation was of an unusual sort.
For the top tuck was the widest-quite
four inches wide. Each tuck dropped
an inch, in width, so that the one at
the hem was only an inch wide. The
effect was novel, a little topheavy. per-
haps, but worth trying for a change.
In the new lingerie waists fine tuck
| ing is employed to dispose Of fullness
At the shoulder seam. Tueking Is al
ways desirable on thin cotton and