davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

Of fashionable women intent on their
spring wardrobes.
This procession OF midinettes would
be a very salutary study to the sor.
OF American woman who complains
that she cannot, on $4,000 a year or
some such paltry sum. dress herself
in the height Of fashion. And NJ.
Worth himself pays first Of all a
tribute to the we'll gowned woman
not the woman Of the $4,000 a year
income, but the so cents a day work.
ing girl.
Think OF it," he excMims as ne
seats himself ready for the interview
with Sun correspondent. mot only
do these women manage to keep alive
on that paltry sum but they keep
themselves up to the mark. They
don't wear old clothes. they don't wear
last seasons fashions, there Is mono
OF the spirit Of don't care, not even
the very excusable falling of which
comes sometimes when one Is nervous
and harassed, as most OF these women
are with so many OF the men at the
front-fathers. brothers and husbands.
Some one has said that the war has
proved very good test by means Of
which the people OF strong character
may be separated from the weak. The
strong ones have gone right on with
their daily work without showing wha.
IS going on in their hearts and souls.
while the weak have become COM
pletely disorganized.
Il think OF this saying when I see
IN" brave little women coming to get
their daily allowance In the clothes
they have made while their hearts
were, perhaps, breaking. Yet they
have put into them all the care AMI
thought they would have spent II WORK
were plentiful and wages sure: IL they
had no dear ones Offering their lives
Tor their country: in word, II thing
were as they should be-
For a special example OF their ex-
uaordInary ability did you notice their
skirts?"
The interviewer allows that she did
AS you know" he continues after
your expression Of admiration has
subsidized, when the war broke out the
ecant. tight fitting skirt was worn by
all except few. Now the full shori
SKIRT is the decree Of the smart woman
ana all these working women have &C.
'omplished this change Immediately.
And the point Is they have accom-
pushed II on so cents day! dom
know how they do II. wish did"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

leave his mouth as il rests half hid
den in a maze OF stubby beard directly
under his nose. the smoke curling
up noseward and eyeward until you
wonder how he breathes and sees. He
smokes a two inch cigarette In the
same manner as German smokes IA
pipe. at the end of long stem.
It Is his sympathy. his common
sense, his helpfulness and his humor
which have endeared him to hundreds
OF Columbia men. When he is asked
a question he answers II forthwith.
For instance, one young man asked
him about the field OF journalism.
Don't stand In the doorway OF
journalism too long" said he, "for you
may catch cod. It's good door to
enter and pass through. but don't
lnger there too long"
Another student asked him concern
ing the money returns OF writing.
authorship" he replied, SIS a very
poor support. ! doubt IL there are $50
persons out Of 100000 who support
themselves from periodical writing.
And let me say that In the forty years
I have been writing for periodicals
have not met nor do ! know Of more
than two or three good editors"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

dignity and the dignity OF her cos
tune.
To-day We have to modify on.
modes to suit the conditions Of that
word sport. as we use the term in
France. meaning everything that il
embraced in that word athleticism.
How said the designers. can women
wear these full skirts and yet walk
and remain athletic?' The answer was
simple. Cut them on Hence the
reason OF the short skirt. And who
complains? Nobody
1t is not only the hand work and
lace making industries that have been
affected by the return OF the full skirt
and the petticoat. At present all COM
mercial Paris seems to have turned
into huge shoe shop.
Every true Parisienne has a pair OF
shoes with white kid tops. just as she
must have a set of ermine, and the
white top shoes are just as conspic-
uous in the window dislays as they are
On the boulevards. But beside them
are shoes with tan and checked tops.
boots with short vamps and boots with
long vamps. which seem to suit the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

things that will take the average
young man long time to learn in life
Is that there Is no second chance"
"Col. Roosevelt told me that his
courage and successful work were due
to his villa will to be strong in
body"
zone Of the things a college educa-
ton ought to give a man is a chance
to think for himself. The younger
generation has got to find out things
for itself"
"A man who Is in love with his job
has nine-tenths of what life will give
him."
"All men have the intelligence Of
their calling"
Brander Matthews has always been
loyal to New York. although he was
born in New Orleans in 1852. He was
graduated from Columbia in 1871. and
entered the law school, where he de-
voted more time to letters than to
Coke and Blackstone. In 1893 he was
appointed a professor, and two years
ago. when he accepted a class dedi-
cation. he wrote:
81 accept your dedication as a
birthday gift-so to speak-on my
coming of age as a professor"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09
His Establishment Fl
nancing $50 Young
Women Who Are
Dressing Well on so
Cents a Day

French foot; the Inevitable Louis
Quinze heels higher than ever and the
Spanish heel which Americans prefer.
NJ. Worth Is ecstatic over the help
that has been given the shoemaking
industry by the demand created by the
short skirt.
THE woman Of to-day certainly
while this fashion lasts must take as
much pains in selecting bier shoes as
her hats" he says. IF she can have
but one pair she must have a we'll
made, expensive pair; IL she can afford
several pairs the shoes must be stud
led for the ensemble just as Is the hat.
There is no neglecting the foot any
more"
And in the matter Of design. will
the war inspire anything new"
You mean zouave Jackets, military
coats, revers. buttons?" NJ. Worth
shakes his head disdainfully. Ca
prices. Caprices. We have made q
few military models. some of the new
blue cloth, the Joffre cloth the soldiers
wear. but these are eccentricities, most
of them, u tell che truth, inspired by
a demand from America.
Being foolish is not the same as
being handsome. 1t is very foolish
for a woman to ape masculine modes
or to feel that a great and serious
event like war should inspire ideas
for her costumes. 1t belittles it's dig
nifty to think Of 1t in such a connec-
ton. I predict that the war will be
followed by period OF great serious
ness. particularly in the fashions"
And the price Of clothes after the
war: will that ascend?"
II do not think 50. I see no rea-
son why 1t should. 1t Is true that
the wool goods manufactured in many
places, Journal. Lille, Roubaix. are
cut of for the present but that is only
a temporary condition. The silk in
dustry has scarcely been affected. We
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

So We drift easily into the subject
OF the moment, namely. that Of the
short skirt which Paris has decided
shall be worn.
"And what about that full skirt?" is
asked.
The adoption Of the full skirt
means. OF course. the return Of the
petticoat and the return Of the petit
coat means the employment OF thou
sands OF women who were absolutely
driven out Of work when the demand
for hand made lingerie and lace prac-
tically ceased. There never was a FASH
ion tablished that has had a better
underlying motive.
The American woman who orders
her Paris model OF full short skirt
with tight fitting corsage which must
be worn with it to keep the harmony
complete must naturally order at the
same time her petticoats, the most
feminine Of all garments. In ordering
these she is performing the truest Of
all charities, giving help to those who
want to help themselves"
Remembering some OF the foot and
ankle displays Of the boulevards ex-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

The skirts should not be too short"
says NJ. Worth. Just above the ankles
! consider the correct length. and per-
sonally, l think a pretty ankle is a
very pleasing sight"
Then. fearing perhaps that this
anatomical lightness is scarcely con-
sistent with the dignity OF the Maison
Worth, he reverts TO type:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

pert opinion is asked on this point.
The word short" in Paris at presen;
really means short when applied to
skirts. and in order to get the skirts
short enough to suit the taste Of some
OF the fashion mongers the boots ara
made higher. so that "a skirt which
reaches to the top Of the boots" has
a new meaning.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09
@R@

when the full skirt which measures
five yards about was worn by the
woman of the Second Empire remem-
Der she did not live as do the women
OF to-day, and so there were no such
problems facing the couturiers Of her
time. The full skirt was not only
very full but long as well. She stepped
into her carriage and SO preserved her
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09

- VERY saturday morning in
r. Paris the stroller on the Rue
- de la Paix at a certain hour
may see parties Of young
women Of the midinette order con-
vergng to a particular point. Their
costumes, II not made Of the very finest
material, at least bear the genuine
marks Of up to date fashion. One
discerns just the right tilt to the hat.
line to the Jacket, flare to the skirt, II
Is evident that whatever changes the
var has brought 1t has not altered the
chic appearance Of the Partisan work.
ing woman.
The procession finally disappears be-
hind the portals Of No. Z. This place
American women distinguished by
Their taste in gowning do not need to
BE- told is the famous Maison Worth.
At the present time the establishment
is financing $50 women at the rate Of
frame day. Each Of them receives
in addition her franc and a quarter
from the Government, and on this she
lives. a total Of about so cents. That
is not all; in her appearance she is a
credit to the house which cannot al
ways furnish her with work but re.
tains her faith and waits with her for
happier times.
Naturally at the moment there Is
not work enough for The big corps OF
helpers. AS you stroll through the
gray walled, mirror lined rooms you
note a plentiful supply OF goods. ex-
Quisite costumes. wraps. blouses, every
thing. in fact, but customers. 1t is the
same story everywhere in Paris
among the smart dressmaking estab-
lishments. Just as much work as can
be given out is distributed among the
most deserving. There is no letdown
in the display OF energy. but one
misses the constant going and coming
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-09
ARIS FASHION MILL GRINDS ON IN SPITE OF WAR
Women of France Typ
flied, Says M. Worth,
by His Brave Midi
nettes, Who Are as
Chic as Ever

" VERY Saturday morning in
r. Paris the stroller on the Rue
- de la Paix at a certain hour
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
Prepared Meal for Burglars

fFOm the NeW OTh Suh'
 South Bend. Ind.-Masked thieves. who tipped their hats and shook hands with their victims on departing, broke into the home of Perry Korn, six miles west of the city. and compelled mem- bers of the family to leave thelr beds at the muzzle of revolvers to help them find va1uables in the house.
 The men fled to South Bend. where later they were captured and confessed They are, according to the police, Ern- est Arnold, Ralph Mcintyre and Louis Eartol, all workingmen with families in this city. They have been out of work for sometime and turned to thievins as the only method of feeding their wives and children, according 10 their confessions. About $50 in jewelry and rrehended when they attempted to pawn Korn's watch.
 Mrs. Korn told the authorities tho three men were the most polite bur- glars she had ever heard of. They en-
 cred the room where she and her hus- ,and were sleeping. awakened them and begged their pardon for doing 1t, and asked them kindly if they would not just as soon conduct them through the house.
 They told Mrs. Korn they were starving, and asked her to prepare them meal, which she did. Before leaving they shook hands with the farmer and his wife and apologized for their rough treatment. As they left one of the thieves said: You will be surprised come day when you receive this money Fa,x these trinkets back. We are not ( ninals; starving wives and children y 's+cornpelled us to- aot depptretbly.'.. feal. a N sa ? f7, 4
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
SPORT NOTES

New Haven. Conn.,. April f.-Guy Nickalls, the Yale coach, said today he did not consider the 20 days water practice of the Yale crew adequate preparation for meeting Pennsylvania $ veterans Saturday, but he expected the eight to give a good account of itself The crews average weight is 176 pounds
 Pinehurst, N. C., April 1.-F. K. Rob- eson, a New York school student. to- day maintained the lead gained in the first qualifying round of the fifteentl, annual united north and south anna teur golf championship, finishing al the head of the field with total oi 155.
 Francis ouimet. national amateu, champion; Walter J. Travis of Garden City, L. l.; and Jesse Guilford of In- tervale, N. H., tied for second place with 156. Phil Carter of Nassau, L l., and Irving S. Robeson of Rochester made 157 each for third.
 New York. April 1.-With one ex- ception, the amended general and ath letio rules prepared by special com mittee of the Amateur Athletic union have been approved by the A. A. U board of governors A mail vote was taken and Secretary Frederick W. Ru- bien announced tonight that the vote registered approval of all rules, ex- cept the Marathon race rule, which provided that any competitor receiving coaching assistance or refreshments during a race should be disqualified
 Chicago. April 1.-Harmony has re placed internal strife among the big base ball leagues for time at least, accord ing to John K. Tener, president of tn, National league.
 "The season of 1915 promises to be on, of the best professional baseball has ex perienced,' he said. '@rhe war in Europ, will keep people with money to spenc at home ana their attention naturally vii turn to outdoor sports
 Tener is on his way home from tn, San Francisco exposition. lie conferre, here with E. B. Johnson, president O the American league.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
Arrests Two-Ton Elephant


 When is a parade not a parade?
 Because Harry Schultz, a New York animal trainer, and Patrolman McMan- us, who upholds the majesty of the law in Jersey City, couldn't agree on this question, Schultz and Mary, his two-ton elephant, were arrested yesterday and for several hours were in durance.
 McManus maintained it was a parade to march an elephant through the streets of the city limits. carrying two trick dogs on her back.
 What did you want me to do? Carry Mary in my arms?' was the retort of Schultz, who was engineering the trans portation of the animals from Newark to New York. He explained to Justice O'Brien that his motor truck went on strike after entering Jersey City, and refused to move another inch.
 Schultz was in too much of a hurry to wait for repairs, so he and Mary de- cided to continue on foot. They didn't get very far when they ran afoul of lfc- Manus.
 Standing in the center of the road. he lifted his club majestically into the air.
 Halt" he cried. If Mary heard she didn't heed, and McManus had to perform a quick sidestep to save himself from being mixed up with the soft road. Schutz didn't have permit for an animal pa- rade, and was marched off to the First precinct police station. Mary and the dogs were taken to the shelter house of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals in Jackson avenue. but when Schultz explained matters in court he was permitted to go. with Mary and her friends.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
LINDsAY'S LEG BROKEN
Painfully Injured When Motorcycle
 Collides With Automobile

IT. Lindsay, son of w. !. Lindsay. yesterday sustained a compound frac- ture of the left leg above the knee. and is at present confined at St. Vim cents hospital as the result Of col ]. Hiding with an automobile which was driven by D. j. Bates manager of the Blue Ribbon shoeshop.
 The accident occurred on the Mount Pinson road on the east side of Five Mile creek. According to eyewitnesses Mir. Bates was ascending the hill and was about to make the curve when Lindsay, who was riding motorcycle' crashed into the left fender of the car The occupants of the automobile were thrown forward by the impact and Judge k. NJ. Hagood and W. NJ. Candle, who were with Mir. Bates, re- ceived minor injuries.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
BE CAREFUL OF YOUR
 MANNERS IN THE STREET
ny IRENE WESTON

If you take stroll along any of the principal streets of city, you will have many opportunities of observing some remarkably bad habits on the part of pedestrians. and the peculiar thing is that they seem to be more pronounced in New York than anywhere else.
 You will frequently meet girls of IA to 20 years. four or five in a line. who never offer to separate or make way for you or anyone else.
 Again, you will find men. ~three, and sometimes four abreast-the end man with his head turned at right anglees to his line of march, so that he cannot see what is ahead of him, and is bound to bump into persons coming from oppo- site directions, with no chance of get ting out Of his way.
 Other persons will continue walking for ward and gazing sideways into store win dows, or perhaps some advertising boa rds and without reducing their speed collide with anybody who may not be quick enough to avoid them
 Sometimes it may be a man or woman walking alone, apparently absorbed in | SO-ANsAAihe oAi Ol lllciT line or DTDEreSS, so that they cannot see what Is before them-and sooner or later you will see them either bump into someone, or splash Into pool of mud or water.
 Others may see an elevated train or surface car approaching. They rush at breakneck speed past or through every one-as If not another train or car would come in thousand years. Sometimes they Jostie parcel from the hand of lady or child. and continue on with out an apology possibly thinking they have accomplished something very praise- worthy in catching the train thus. and entirely regardless of the annoyance or damage they have caused.
 This class of persons may inwardly con slider themselves very industrious but they seldom gain anything by such ac- tivity. It is the calm, cautious. steady
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
STRAWBERRY CROP
 HURT BY FR0STS

Washington. April Reports to the agricultural department tonight from Louisiana said that three-fourths of the strawberry crop of that district already set, was killed by frosts on March 21, causing a reduction of 800 cars in the shipment of this fruit.
 "The planters are setting another crop the report added, but heavy shipments will be delayed for two weeks. Reports from the Carolinas, central Alabama and Arkansas indicate no damage. but crops are two weeks late"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
Continue Efforts

Honolulu, April 1.-Repeated tests were made today of the diving tube construct ed by engineers for the purpose of facili- tating the work of raising the submarine F-4 from the bottom of the ocean outside the harbor here
 Two divers experimented with the ap- paratus, going down to considerable depths. Ii is understood the tube proved satisfactory and it is expected that the divers will use it tomorrow at the spot wehere tho F-4 is believed to have been located.
 Lieut.. c. E. Smith. commanding the submarine flotilla here, is assembling the stfivaging material available in this port and organizing his forces for thorough operations Work will be begun, it Is said. before divers and apparatus arrive from the mainland.
 movement was begun in Honolulu today to raise relief fund for families of the crew entombed in the submarines .
 Public memorial services will be held after the bodies are recovered.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
DIVING APPARATUS SENT ID HONOLULU
Admiral Moore Proceeding With Work Pending
 Arrival of Divers

Washington. April 1-Rear Admiral Moore, in charge of operations to raise
 the long submerged submarine F-4 from the ocean bed outside Honolulu harbor, l cabled the navy department today that he was proceeding with the Work. pend ing the arrival of special diving apparatus and expert divers from New York. The apparatus was forwarded to San
 Francisco late today to be shipped to
 Honolulu on the cruiser Maryland. Rear Admiral Moore's dispatch said he would
 not be able to report any progress for several days but that he was making preparations to lift"
 The diving apparatus is due to reach San Francisco late Monday night and lthe five divers were under orders to pro- ceed immediately to embark on the Mary land.
 Dr. G. W. R. French, who has been ob- serving their experimental work in Long Island Sound for several weeks, will ae- company the squad to Honolulu. That the divers were entirely confident of their ability to work on the ocean bed 300 feet below the surface, was indicated tonight in statement by Secretary Daniels, al- though ne said there was considerable risk" in diving operations at such depth. The statement said:
 The great depth in which the F'-4 lies, about 270 feet, places her outside of the reach of ordinary diving operations with out the special appliances with which this party is equipped. When these deep sea divers reach Honolulu it will be possible for them, with their experience and spe- cial appliances, to go down to the wreck. Hoisting slings and chains can then be attached.
 Divers Experienced '"The navy deep divers have been down as deep as ETA feet in Long Island Sound and are confident they can work at a depth of 300 feet or more. Even with | experience however, there is considerable risk in diving operations at such great depth.
 "I am determined to do all that is hu- manly possible in order to ascertain the cause of the disaster in order to avoid a repetition of this.'
 Secretary Daniels, after conference with Naval Constructor Taylor and Rear l Admiral Griffin, chief of the bureau of steam engineering. issued another state ment replying to what he considered un- warranted criticisms as to the condition of the submarines engines and boilers. Causes assigned for the loss of the F-4." he said, ''are that her engines were 1 of poor design and tht her battery re- quired overhauling. The engines were in | every way reliable and were in good working condition. Recent reports from | the F4 show that both engines were | in excellent condition during a 4s-hour
 run. As to the battery, a report of Jan
 uary, 19l5, states that ab overhaul had 1 been completed and that the battery was l in good condition.
 An abundant supply of battery ma terial was in store at Honolulu, so that there was no reason why the battery should not have been in splendid condi-
 ton at the time of the accident as in- deed there is no evidence that it was
 not. Therefore. nothing within the lSnowl- edge of the navy department warrants any doubt as to the condition of the en- l zines or batteries of the F-4."
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-04-02
NEW LEAGUE
 IS ORGANIZED

The Greater Birmingham Amateur Base ball league was organized last night at Wimberly & Thomas store and the fol- lowing officers were elected: President, R. D. Crow; secretary. Tom Edwards. league:
 The Glee-Cola company. American Steel Powderly, Postoffice, Avondale Cotton Mills, Pratt City and Green Springs.
 The Greater Birmingham league will open on May l and will play only on Saturday afternoons. It is expected that this will be the fastest amateur organ ization within the city limits.