The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1915-03-14
If Not Exciting

sibly that Is the reason SO many OF
the frock backs are more than usually
interesting.
Possibly the thing that first makes
a strong impression upon one who
examines the new French models is
the preponderance Of back frocks.
A very considerable percentage OF the
smartest looking and most succeSsfui
models which are duplicates OF the
originals shown at the French open
ings are developed in black with or
without relieving touches Of color
ether than white More often than"
not white is the only thing used to
tighten the black.
One can understand the psychology
of this, but whether American women
will consent to a black spring season
Ia doubtful. Most Of the black models
are susceptible Of successful copying
in color, yet one doubts whether the
eolored frocks will have tn cachet
of the black ones, and so "leverly
have the designers handled TT l. black
stuffs that the resulting models sell
dom have sombre air. They are
piquant chic, delightful in spite OF
their back.
In one group OF thirty-five frocks
as consistently attractive as any one
collection shown here eight models
were In black very lightly relieved by
white, four we're in black and white
without touch of color. three were
In white and black and three were In
all white. Add to that two grays and
four dark blues and you will under-
stand that the display was not a gar
18Th one. but, as has been said before.
the frocks were almost without ex-
ception eminently attractive.
Paauin has done rather more with
color than most OF her peers, put
many of her models are in suDdueo
and subtle combinations of color, with
glowing touches of warmer color tn
girdses or other detail. One very
much admired Paauin model. for ex-
ample, is OF many layers Of dark blue
tube over a soft metallic blue fonnda-
ton with a soft girdie OF brocade rib
bon In which mauves and beige and
rose tones are blended upon wine
red ground. Paaufn has used too, for
gardles upon serge frocks and wool
or silk suits. curious vide beige or
ivory or dark blue ribbon. thick, soft,
loosely woven and suggesting a satiny
but rough silk and wool texture, with
borders of inch square block checks
In bright co.ors, usually dull red,
bright blue and gold.
Drecoli has been very successful
with black and with white and black
some of the most admired models
brought over having emanated from
that house. There too one finds the
very full skirt, but in such soft ma
terials that there Is no impression OF
bulk, and the Drecoll frocks are as q
rule rather less short than those of
Panuin, while the bod,ces are simpler.
Indeed paquin has in numerous In
stances, elaborated and complicated
her bodices beyond the point OF
charm
Doepiliiet shows some good conser-
yative models rather more fitted, IN
many instances. than most OF the
French frocks.
That mother Of the fitted bodice. by
the way. In less important than IL was
expected to be. The vast curve is
more clearly Indicated an aAiiioSt A't VI
the French models than II was asst
season. but OF actually fitted or boned
boalces there are comparatively few
the large majority having loosely ad-
1usted bodices that do not blouse.
Once in a while one runs across
trim little bodice pointed back and
front or hattlemeated, nipp.ng the
waist closely above a fun skirt: but
these are the exception rather than
the rule. and the exceptions occur most
often among evening frocks, where the
picturesque always has more latitude
than among day time frocks.
Lanvin, who caters chiefly to youth
and airily ignores the problems Of ma
turity and avotrdupois. goes In rather
more heavily for the very picturesque
than most of the French houses: but
i'rem@s. cheruit and even the youth