davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14
By MAY MANTON

great width as the special material
will require. For lawn crepe de chine,
pongee and the like, three-eighths of
an inch should be sufficient. but for
wolfe and other materials that are
apt to fray. little more width will
be advisable. 1t will be advisable to
line the yoke, collar and the cuffs with
the same. and if you lay your pattern
out carefully on the material you
will be able TO cut these Innings out
from what otherwise would be waste,
but take care to cut as carefully as
the outside, with the indication
for the straight of the material faith
fully followed
After having cut out your waist,
fold all the portions OF the collar
and cuffs together and each larger
piece separately and lay them aside
neatly. Then. as a first step. turn
the front edges under on the lines of
smaller perforations and stitch the
hens. Gather the back across the
upper edge between the double
crosses, then lay the outside of the
yoke owe. the back. the right sides
together and the lower edge of the
yoke meeting the upper edge of the
waist. Basic carefully. distributing
the gathers evenly. then haste the
lining over the under side of the back
in exactly the same way. Stitch the
seam, taking care to follow the marked
outline of the pattern, then turn two
portions of the yoke up with the
seam between them. and haste to-
gether, then haste the yoke and the
lining together. well within the edges,
but with the. edges meeting. Gather
the fronts at their upper edges be.
tween the double crosses and join TO
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14
FADS AND FANCIES OF FASHION
By MAY MANTON

Y /ERlLI are fashions all things
" 10 all people just now. One
sees the same idea made won
derfully beautiful on the one hand
and utterly travestied on the other.
We are having such an unusual oppor-
tunity both in the way of designs and
colors, that it should be easy for all
women to be becominely dressed, but
with some curious inability to see
herself in the true light, the average
woman is exceedingly apt to select
what looks well on her friend and for
get entirely that while the friend is
tall and svelte OF figure, she herself
Is short and rotund.
Short skirts unquestionably are
fashionably, but that IS no reason that
the woman of shortest stature and
greatest breadth need exaggerate the
tendency. There never was season
of greater charm. when its essential
features were easier adapted TO the
L1A - 1ASC - OiAN mat Nah
tie exaggerated and made utterly
absurd. We are to wear many founces
a great many frills and sCallops are in
evidence everywhere and all sorts of
quaint, pretty effects, but let US hope
that every Dressmaking Salon will be
lined with mirrors, when the process
IT salagtannr = ,4,lnr
styles really belong to the few ard
they are wise and appropriate only for
the woman who can afford to wear
costume a few times and then throw
1t aside, for everything that is extreme
Is marked in effect aid whatever is
exaggerated, is readily recognized and
soon grows wearisome and the wise
selection for the woman of moderate
means Is the medium of any fashion
whatever 1t may he. IF skirts are
wide, she will never choose the widest
If they are narrow, she will avoid the
narrowest and so on, but say what we
may in contraVention, there is GER
tain tendency in the feminine mind
that might be called shecplike and a
great number go blindly after the
leader, let that leader go as far astrav
as she may. Up-to-date designs
always can be found in the reliable
houses and what is better, good de-
signs are offered by the good dealers.
We must grow away from the notion
that the label, of necessity, means
desirablility, if we ever are to be
really well-dressed. 1t is the woman
who adapts the fashions to herself, not
she who strives to adapt herself to the
fashions, who achieves distinction in
matters OF dress and this season with
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

tune. but it can be made Of % ar
dine or serge to make an eNcellcnt
one for the cool days and II. Ce=i q
is one that can be copied in any ma
terial that is adapted to BOYS use
1t would be an every day suit OF i
dressy one as one material OF another
is used for the making. The girls
dress is made with straight skirt that
is joined to a yoke and with a quite
separate over-blOuse that extends down
over the hips and forms sash at the
back In the picture. the dress itself
is made of embroidered flounCing
and the over-blouse is made of cotton
crepe. The misses costume il made
of the taffeta that is such pro-
nounCed favorite this season, with a
blouse of crepe de chine The little
bolero is sleeveless and the skirt Is
lifted to 4 modified Empire line and
is finished with an unusual belt.
Nothing is more fashionable and per
haps nothing is more serviceable than
taffeta but there is no model of the
season that cannot be changed iii
effect if made of different material
This dress would be smart of linen,
of cotton crepe or cotton wolfe, or
it could be made with skirt and blouse
of a lingerie material and the little
bolero of taffeta in some pretty color
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14
SUMMER FASHIONS are FASCINAT

are made in the picture are all good
aud it will be noted that there is a
certain picturesque element to be
found which is perhaps peculiarly ap
parent in the costumes for the little
boys and little girls. The Empire
gown that is shown or one womah's
figure makes an excellent example OF
what is admirable both for street and
for indoor wear. 1t is what might
be called Empire Princesse, for the
body portion and skirt are joined to
make one piece and while there is the
high waist line to suggest the Empire
period, there is also wide and fiaring
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

fashions and fabrics both are
fascinating this season. In spite
of the fact that we started out
with some apprehension as to what
effect the war might have upon the
supply of fabrics and the supply Of
designs, the season has proven to be
one of exceptional fascination and of
infinite charm. We made something
of a sudden jump from narrow skirts
to very wide ones, but already there
is a tendency toward moderation
and the really smart costume is the
one that shows extremely becoming and
graceful lines. The suggestions that
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14
The Influence of Dress

I world today is the power of
dress. 1t sways the mind of
all; the wise, the foolish, the good, the
evil; the rich, the poor the old and
the young. Good clothes are the
creators OF opportunity in society,
business and religion. The well-dressed
person exerts a psychological influence
that is irresistible. Good clothes are
staff to lean upon. during life, and
monument builder over ones ashes.
If wives and mothers realized to what
extent dress influences husband and
children. there would be far less slip
shod, unkempt women wandering
about home from early morning
until late afternoons The disheveled
housewife is a source of widespread
decentralization, that begins as soon
as the husband discovers that her
careful attention to dress when she
was being wooed, was for effect; and
HOT iOI IT'S illlluGllIC duI
the days of home making. 1t is easier
after this becomes apparent to allure
him away from the home; he sees the
tidy nurse, 5aleslady or Office assistant,
always smart-appearlng and the COM
parison with his unpresentable help
meet is unfavorable to the sweetness
he sought in married life. The untidy
carelessly-dressed mothers influence
on her children too is not salutary;
for carelessness in dress is evidence
to those skilful interpreters of human
nature, of carelessness in thought, if
not in speech, and the child natu-
rally rebels against a government not
systematic. stable and prompted by
high motives.
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

rows. it is put on in some simple
shown way at the left of the picture
illustrates not alone an excellent model.
it also gives evidence of the favor
shown TO checked fabrics. The skirt is
of the gored, circular sort but with
Tapped edges at the front that are al
ways good. The coat hangs loose from
the deep yoke and while it is exceed
ingly fashionable and takes most
graceful and attractive lines it will be
learn that it is an easy garment to
make and also to fit. If preferred, it
can be made a little longer, but for
summer the short coat is good one.
Women who are thinking of outings
which may take the form OF travel
ling. where one stops over at hotels
from time to' time, will find this suit
very desirable one. 1t can be worn
with lingerie blouses while travelling
and with a pretty silk one for the
hotel dinner
Mothers of small boys and little
girls will not fail to be interested in
the designs for the younger folk. The
little boys suit is made with most
becoming jacket and loose blouse. If
the material is linen, pique or the like.
it is just an every day summer cos
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

meeting, and stitch. Basic as indi-
Gated in the diagram, then stitch close
to the edge and stitch all around the
remaining edges of the band for
finish Sew button on the neck-band
at the center back and sew one near
the front edges at the perforations.
then work button-holes on the collar
band to match these buttons, or work
button-holes in the neck-band as well
as in the collar band and use studs in
place of the buttons. Lap the hens
on the fronts with the large perfora-
tons meeting. Make button-holes
through the hem on the right front
and sew buttons on the hem on the
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14
THE REVIVED SHIRT WAIST-HOW TO MAKE 1T

TINE simple, untrinmed. plain
blouse that is really the shirt
waist has -etIIued to favor
and Is one OF ,..v most fashionable
garments for the Spring and Sum
mer IL is really not at all difficult
TO make, yet for so many seasons we
have been wearing the fancy blouse
that the art of making the simpler
me has largel' uon into disuse
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14
Decline of Family Life.

THE signs of the present day
indicate startling tendency
toward the disruption OF the
family life Not only in the larger
cities is this tendency apparent, but
even in the village it is becoming
more and more noticeable. Domestic
science and economy are decidedly on
the wane, and family ties are holding
our people less firmly together than
in the past. Our steadily growing
commercialism is undoubtedly The
principal factor that is bringing about
this state of things; the youngsters
catch the moneygetting spirit that
dominates the community, and the
love of home becomes secondary to
the desire to accumulate. The old
time housekeeper, in the calico gown,
is giving way to the club woman with
bejeweled fingers; and the restaurant
is succeeding the family kitchen.
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

skirt. In the picture, the material is
linen banded with embroidery and
it is exceedingly handsome, but it
would be easy to copy this gown in
G. b trdine for a more useful costume,
or in taffeta, poplin and in many
another material, always varying the
trimming to suit the fabric On the
silk. velvet ribbon is being extensively
used and often in place of straight
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

May Manton Patterns for these De-
signs may be obtained by sending 10
cents for each pattern wanted to the
Fashion Department Of this paper.
Fashion Dept.
Gentlemen
enclose 81. for which send me
the following patterns:
Send Pattern No. Size. -.
Send Pattern No. 49,. Size. -.
To (Name) Observation-Disclosures.
Street and No.. Observation-Disclosures.
City ............ State. ...
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

lining over the seams. Turn the cuffs
down and you will be ready for the
over-portions. Arrange the lining over
Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1915-05-14

NNE of the greatest powers in the
I world today is the power of
dress Ii SWANS the mind of
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-05-08

tells the American willingly that the
Germans are a great people and that
as yet the Germans have not exhibited
their full military strength OIL either
front of battle. The Englishman who
goes out to fight or who would go If
some physical disqualification or age
did not prevent him from going. has
little use for his brother man who,
able to fight, rests at home on the
feather bed, feeling that his services
will not be needed.
Making of officers.
They are training officers at Alder
shot as they are training enlisted men.
For the most part it seemed to me that
the officers had been given some pre-
liminary training either in what we
Americans call school brigades or in
some of the organizations semimili-
tary in nature which England, like
other countries, has in numbers. The
young officers work from reveille to
taps every day at their task of learn
ing. Anyone of the veteran noncom-
missioned officers now serving as drill
masters knows more of camp cam
paigning and battle matters than any
| of the commissioned ones under tutel-
age. But these youngsters wearing
the insignia of rank for the first time
| seemingly are much in earnest. They
have a lot to learn, but they are try
ing to learn it quickly, for Englishmen
seem to know the dire need of trying
to combine thoroughness with haste
in the present time of danger.
The women of England, like the
women of Germany, France and Aus
tria, are working as hard in their own
way as are the men. There is no line
of endeavor outside that of the actual
bearing OF firearms which the women
of England are not following. The
boys work and the girls work, and
their aid, it is said here, has bull
warked the general strength of the
nation. 1t always has been %inconceiv-
able to an American boy why the av-
a Englishman has looked upon
woman as Just a little bit his inferior.
| The American learned long ago that
woman was mans superior, certainly
in moral courage and very likely,
when the pinch comes, in physical
courage. have heard it said in Lon
don that this war is bound to change
the view that the Englishman for CEN
turtles has taken of the Englishwoman
and, for that matter, of the woman
of every other nation on earth.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-05-08
LONDON IS IN
CONSTANT FEAR
OF zEPPEL|NS
Extraordinary Precautions Are
Taken to Guard Against
Air Attack.
BIG TOWN A SERIOUS PLACE
No Enalishman Underestimates the
Task Ahead Of Autobiography
Taxed to Draw Men to Re-
crultlnq Offices.
BY EDWARD 3. CLARK.
Cstan Correspondent Western Newspa

(Stan Correspondent Western Newspaper
Union.)
London.-When you look drowsily
from your pillow out of your bedroom
window at the sky over London and
see some f~ieeting cloud suddenly
picked out shiningly you know that
the searchlights which are the sen
tries of this big city are on duty. Lon
don expects a visit from the Zeppelins
and vigilance is in no wise relaxed.
The old words of the hymn, Watch
man, What of the Night?" constantly
recur to n who walks the gloom
%shrouded streets.
London at night, however, is not
wholly dark. Today, or should one
say tonight, there is one light where
once there we're ten, but the one suf-
hoes to allow the stroller to pick his
way and to avoid the street corner pit
falls. There are guns still pointing
skyward from many a London roof
They are harmless looking weapons
from the viewpoint of the street, but
they are of long range and are said
to be of deadly precision.
Thus far, or at any rate up to the
time of this writing, London has been
immune from the attacks of aircraft.
What may befall some night no one
knows. The signs of warning are still
posted along the streets. The city
jewellers are told not only to beware
of the bombs of an enemy but of the
falling fragments Of the shells of the
home guns exploding in the pathways
of the aeronaut invaders.
Humorous Side of It.
There is a somewhat humorous fea
ture about one type of the displayed
poster Of warning and instruction
One great sheet has on it in black sill
houettes the types Of the alien air
ships and those of the home land. The
people are asked to study them and tc
learn the differences. A man nigh,
as we'll try to commit to memory the
whole table of logarithms from minus
infinity to plus infinity as to fix in his
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-05-08

volunteers. They are young men
from school. the government depart
ments, the shop, the farm and the fac
tory. Thus far England has main
tanned its strict standard of military
requirements from the standpoint Of
the stamina and general physique of
the men allowed to enter the ranks.
So it is that at Aldershot the thousands
undergoing training are sturdy youths
capable of enduring the hardships OF
the soldiers life in field and in bat
tie.
Daily n hears discussed the ques.
ton as to whether or not before this
war is owe this country must resort
to CONSUMPTION. There are men who
are holding back from enlistment who
think that the foe can be overcome
without their aid. The men who so
think apparently are disdainful of the
desire of the authorities that nothing
shall be said or thought which shall
tend to belittle the strength OF the
enemy. The average Englishman
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-05-08
FOUND AFTER LONG SEARCH
After Inheritance Went to Sea and
Stayed Longer Than
Planned.

San Francisco.-George Storah is a
man OF many travels and adventures
and also many troubles. His chief
trouble is keeping track of his family.
Just twelve years ago he was found
in San Francisco, after a nationwide
search, employed as a feeder Of pigs
by Chester Edwards. The boy had
come suddenly into an inheritance and
was restored to his family. Then he
went TO sea in a German tramp and
again lost his relatives.
Now he has written from Bridge
port. Conn, asking the Call and Post
to help him find his sister, Mrs. Royal
Gardner, whom he last heard from in
Fruitvale. Il went to sea-" he writes.
Tin a German ship and stayed longer
than / had planned. and now l can't
find my relatives"
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-05-08
Oldest OF
)%(n)gu10dgTt0g Canals

The Toulouse side of the canal
Riquet pushed through in about two
years, having at one time a force OF
1900 workers, including GOO women.
while 1000 others were busy on the
mountain reservoirs and bitches. The
first stretch on the east side was as
far as Trebes, beyond Carcassonne.
and, as locks abound, It took more
time. The first important town you
come to is Castelnaudary, a dead, pro-
vincial town with the usual central
square surrounded by sleepy cafes
The harbor is finer than hat of Tou-
louise, and the town rises from 1t to
the octagonal church tower with a GER
tain gray dignity for all the buildings
are of stone on that side Of Naurouse.
From Cas~telnaudary on to Beziers
the Black mountain is ever on the
left, while to the right are distant
glimpses of the Pyrenees. The coun-
try becomes more and more southern
in appearance until you reach Carcas-
sonne, which rises up from the Aude.
the most medieval sight in France
From then on the country is wholly
given over to the grape, and you can
see the peasants busting the leaves
with Bordeaux mixture. At the Crosse
river the canal sends an eighteen
kilometer branch down to N~arbonne,
whose cathedral spires are plainly Wis
ible against the southern sky. Then
all the country becomes an ancient
lake bed converted into a mammoth
plain of vineyards. 1t is the former
marsh country of the old Lake Ru-
brensis, which calls to mind by its
geological history the ancient Lake
Bonneville of the state of Utah. Out
Of it you drop into the Mediterranean
marshes by the Malpas tunnel, l2O
meters long. This is an extraordinary
knot of thoroughfares. Above the hill
is the old Roman road from Beziers to
Narbonne; through the hill is Riquets
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-05-08

try. 1t is a broad, fertile plain shut
in on both sides by low hills like the
Platte valley in Nebraska. A rare
thing in France, where villages
abound, it is a country of scattered
farms, even the churches with their
octagonal brick towers in the Tou-
louise style having only n or two
houses about them. Flocks of geese
are in every barnyard, for goose is
the mainstay of the local meat supply.
White oxen do all the work in the
fields, but are too ~''molasse," the boat
men say, to draw the canal boats. A
New Highlander would say they T as
slow as cold molasses. The canal
banks are lined with elm and plane
trees, and the views between give a
series of moving farm pictures that
stand out with a Coloradolike clear
ness, for this country is what Henri
Martin, the Paris mural painter, calls
the land Of limpid light.
1t takes from one to two days to
reach Naurouse, where the divide is.
Here one has the best chance to see
nOW duhlllaDlg AlquCb PidhhCu hAo
work, for it was there he solved the
chief difficulty of the canal, the prob
lem of water supply. Up to the north
and east, for twenty-five miles at least,
extends the Black mountain, the most
southerly ramifcation of the Ce-
venues. On the Toulouse side is the
River Sor. and on the Mediterranean
were many small mountain streams
running into tributaries of the Aude.
the chief river on that side. Riquet,
who lived at Revel, not far from Nau-
rouse, had given twenty-five years of
study to the problem before he proved
to the kings commissioners that he
could tap the Sor on n side and
bring the Alzau, the Lampy, and
three other mountain streams into a
reservoir above Naurouse.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-05-08

mind the trifling variations in con-
struction and contour of the airship
of the enemy and of the airship of
the friend. When night has fallen the
task of differentiation would be null
tiplied until learning the Bible back
wards, with Shakespeare, Moliere and
the dictionary OF all the languages of
the world thrown in, would be a job of
comparatively easy accomplishment.
London is not so full of marching
troops as once it was. The volunteers
go quickly to the training camps. The
enlistment efforts are as energetic as
they have been at any time in the
past, but, of course, as the material,
or at any rate the willing material, is
used up, the recruits diminish in num-
Der, at least such seems to be the case
at least, one seldom meets ar able
bodied man OF soldier age.
English ingenuity has been taxed to
get new and striking word allurements
to draw men to the recruiting offices.
One recruiting poster which was sup
posed to be a paragon of strength
either has been torn down or has been
covered up in nearly all instances. 1t
was an appeal in these words: Give
your strong right arm to your coun-
try" Above the words was the pic
ture of a strong right arm, but, unhap-
PLY, the arm was detached from the
shoulder, and the significance of the
thing was such that the military au-
thorities had a second thought and
withdrew the amputated arm from the
service for which it was intended.
London a Serious Place.
This big town is a serious place.
No Englishman underestimate appar-
emily the task which is ahead of him.
An official said to me that a belittling
OF the foe or of his strength was the
last thing desired by the authorities.
1t is known here, for constant express