Evening star., 1915-10-10
Carly Winter Fashions Modified to Suit All

>S
wlngs are thought Of only whsA the
hat 10 made of tiny feathsrsL
Another attractive feature IN some
the very new gown; Is the ,ntrc 70
waist. Worth 10 responsible for this
innovation. That house has always
liked the ceremonial in clothes. going
In strongly for the dIsnined English
lishman. although both the "boys~ are
lighting in the trenches for Franco.
The uncle. who runs the house. 10 op
posed to many OF the modern features
through manneauins at public places
| was never allowed, and well known
| members OF the half world were not
allowed in the house. When one
courage IL required. and monetary loss
II involved. to insist upon these eiimi
nations. then one can get q btrd's-eye
s~ Wsr,, Of the dignity Of II. ,.,S house Of
msroially or artisticaliy. but II exists.
Now that the arm has closed its his.
toric London house. the Paris creations
may become more eminently French,
but. 90 far. there 10 no evidence Of IL.
Only America matters now with the
makers Of clothes. and Worth believes
rightly that there 10 . large number Of
Americans who do not like the modern
tendency toward girlishness and friv-
olity In clothes, especially for those
whose youth has gone.
vances for this winter have their cas-
caded trains lined at the sides with
satin in pale color. Some one who
wanted 4 simple gown from which were
a - M hof
surface Of most OF the Vatican frocks
asked Worth II he could make It. His
answer was a pinkish red velvet with
ming on It. The deep decolletage was
cut in the English manner and hello
over each shoulder by q band OF red
velvet ribbon. ending in q bow that
stood almost to the ears.
1t was necessary that the French de-
signers CHOOSE chiffon or silk for the
best of their afternoon frocks. because
they did not have recourse to a variety
Of fabrics SO long as the Germans hold
the Industrial towns Of northern
France.
True. Rodier. the fabric maker, put
up new mills and went on with his
work as though the Germans were in
their own country. not his. but France
had on hand. and found easy to get. a
mass Of chiffon. so the fashion was
created for frocks of that fabric. and
them.
These chiffon frocks are in entranc-
Ing colors. There IL nothing damboy-
ant-green that has gray In 1t, pale
purples. yellow. called orangeade; crow
blue. taupe a-plenty. Moleskin Is re-
vived to trim the taupe-colored frocks.
and sealskin Is here to touch or the
gowns Of deep brown and pale gray
blue.
There are few frocks Of heavy ma
terials. They would be unbearable un-
der heavy topcoats in this climate. so
the woman who wants one good frock
that will serve many purposes can be
suited easily this season.
These thin gowns carry little adorn-
ment in the way Of white at the neck.
Nearly all of them fasten straight up
coats, or have a single faring collar Of
white organdie that goes out sharply
from the neckband and reaches to the
tips of the ears.
r
Fur IL used for collars and cuffs. even
on the fiimsiest OF frocks, and Il IL ar
ranged to turn down when there Is
high coat collar with which to reckon.
Chiffon voile. or cloth. is made up into
morning gowns to wear under any kind
Of warm coat a. q substitute for the
regulation coat suit. The wearing quail
ity Of this weave Of chiffon has been
satisfactorily proved and women liked
it as well as. II not better than. serge. It
is lavishIy trimmed with ribbon. usual
ly Of velvet, although the ribbed silk
ribbons are effective. Rows Of II are
placed around the skirt. as belt. Guns.
and sometimes a. pleating placed De-
low tho hem.
One Of the most effective Of these
chiffon frocks for afternoon wear.
which will be copied here in many col
ors with different fur. is moleskin chif-
fon with a gathered skirt flowing Into
soft fuilness at the ankles and run
with vertical graded bands Of mole
skin. The points reach toward the
waist. but end about six inches below
IL The blouse has collar and GUNS OF
the same fur and there is girdle OF
In ali these gowns the sleeves are
long. There is no experimenting Win
the length. but q vast variety OF eApsl .h
ments are made with the shape and the
trimming. Paquin features sleeves ana
produces a dozen or more good .GeA..
The modified leg-o'-mutton Is un,ver-
saIiv used The length OF the cum os-
nends on the whim OF the dressmaker'