The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-22
=, ELEANOR HoYT BRAINERD.

-HE summer has brought forth
some charming little things as
accessories Of dress, and now
autumn fads and fancies are begin
ming TO make themselves felt, though
the summer vanities linger.
Some Of the gay silk sweaters are
taking unto themselves soft wool lin
,ngs. Linen and straw outing hats are
giving way to sports hats OF felt.
Summer footwear is disappearing from
the shoe shops. Velvet and fur are
asserting themselves. Autumn hats
are displayed on every side.
Those first autumn hats are inter-
esting always. BY the last of August !
one is tired OF straw and tulle and
lingerie headgear, eager for novelty,
and a hat is usually a woman's first
concession to changing seasons. The
all feather hats. especially those in all
white, have been quickly picked up,
and the small velvet toques are selling
readily too, though the thin silk beaver |
or hat plush is newer than velvet and
promises to be an autumn fad. Stiff
little top hats Of mannish shapes in
this glossy silk beaver are considered
chic for tailored wear and do look ex-
ceedingly well on a woman to whom
their severity is becoming. For trim
ming they have something almost neg
ligible-an ornament Of finely cut steel
or beads or a wool.en flower or some
stiff little feather brush-or perhaps
they are quite untrimmed save for the
encircling band. With an absolutely
plain well tailored suit built up on the
new lines, one OF the high, saucy col
lars and cravats and n pair of the one
color, dark. very high buttoned boots.
such a hat puts the dot upon the 1
Of a thoroughly up to date tailored
costume.
When Italy finally entered the war
THE SuN prophesied a millinery craze
for coques' feathers and the bersa-
glieri hat. n the event has fulfilled
the prophecy. for the bersaglieri hat.
jaunty and picturesque. has beer with
us Tor weeks past and is likely to have
a great but brief popularity, the brew
lily being due to the ease with which
the idea may be taken up for cheap
millinery. But while the b~ersaglieri
model, with its streaming coques'
plumes. may die of overpopularity, the
voSue OF coques' piumes is Likely to
mrer, and they are being used for
Whole toques. for the brims of velvet
or felt toques, for plumes, for brushes,
for brim edgings, in any and every
way.
Woollen flowers. used by the milli-
ners all summer on straws and linen
and silk. are r%eappearing on velvet
and felt and fur. and fatty applied
conventionalizec flowers of other ma
terials are also liked. A little toque
shown by several of the importers is
the one Of black velvet pictured here;
tight fitting. brimless. its crown much
higher on one sid han on the other,
and for trimming a fatty applied
wreath Of green leaves separating
Futurist blossoms hat are alternately
purple and cardinal.
Ruches of many kinds in everything
nom organdy to velvet and fur are
worn, and most of them now are chin
celebrating. though many of the early
summer models confined their soaring
tendencies to the back of the neck.
The latter are more generally becom-
Ing, but where a throat and ace can
stand ii the high ruche all around is
attractive. A pretty n in organdy,
easily copied. has outstanding and
downfalling plated frills, both deeper
In the back than in the front, sep
arated by a close fitted stock of silk,
cut with a wide. deep tab falling down
over the organdy plating in the back.
Many new high stocks or cravats
end high collars are coming in. and
mos: of them have lingerie tabs of
some sort in front-usually plated
tabs, hemstitched or ace edged. These
soft tabs are added even when the
collar has an air of tailored severity.
Scarfs have not had the vogue they
enjoyed a few seasons ago. yet no
woman is without a few, and, well