Evening star., 1915-06-13


X
Wise travellers must also patronize
the blouse shops. Pilgrims to the ex-
position will not be able to dispense
with them. as for land travel they are
necessity. Space is limited in the
compartment of car. 1t used to be
SO on the transatlantic liners. but these
days staterooms are more generous in
size, and the practically unlimited ac-
cess to the bagge hold has solved the
problem of packing a weeks wardrobe
into small space at sea. 1t would be
difficult, however, to pack gowns
enough for a coast-to-coast trip, es-
pecially in the summer. with its prob
lens of dust. heat and changing tenn
perature, in the small compass of hand
baggage. Nothing is more annoying
on a train than to have ones compart-
ment SO crowded with bags and bundles
that there is barely room for ones
self ANY one can store away five
b1ouses and look fresh and dainty and
feel respectable all the time. At the
end of the journey. trip to the laun-
dry repairs all the ravages of cinders
and alkali dust.
AS to the details of the seasons
blouses, the collars, sleeves cuffs, etc.
which date them more readily than
anything else. we may observe that al
though the decree of high collars went
forth in February, a decided relaxation
is to be noted. The compromise effects
are being varied all the time, and many
of the frilled models are frankly low in
cut Many retain the collar only in the
back.
Perhaps we are growing more inde
pendent and courageous than of old,
and are daring to dispute these arbi-
trary DEGREES of unseen powers. On
many models high collars still remain.
however Sometimes they are double
one Advance models for fall show a
revival of the old-fashioned black
stock. They are indescribably chic for
those who can wear them, and very
lightly starched linen with points
sharply standing away on each side.
and bound up to the chin with black
ribbon.
Sometimes there is a fold of black
satin around the neck, with two dogs
ear points of linen in front. There
are also net arrangements, two little
plated frills standing up and two
turning down. with a black ribbon be-
tween them. The same thing appears
as cuffs on a blouse of the finest white
net, with no other trimming. The
whole body of the blouse. and the
sleeves, is lightly. plated in ACCORDION
plaits. Fine-meshed net was largely
used three years ago. Its extensive
use for summer gowns has made the
revival of it quite natural tor olouses.
There is no more satisfactory mate
rial for either.
The sleeves of the season are near
ly all long. Unlike collars. they have
made no compromise as yet with the
temperatures A few three-quarter
lengths are seen on good models, but
the rule. Nearly all are set in with
a normal armhole. Sometimes they
run up onto the shoulder in raglan
effect, and sometimes they are cut
line gives an opportunity for jour,
hemstitching or fine cording. which
is seen on the French waists.
very few, in the softest, thinnest ma
terials. show the kimono cut, and In
general the armhole is very trim. The
bishop sleeve in modified form, set in
at the shoulder, or gathered from
dropped cap, is favorite. 1t is usual
ly finished with a small bracelet cuff
and plated ruf11e falling over the hand.
normal in sleeves. though there is
often a slight swelling of the top part
when it is set into deep cuff.
pretty model has little frills. turning
at lHtSTHdiS up tHc iSHsla
of a cuff which reaches to the elbow.
Most of the E:odels fasten down
the front, few close at the side. and
the surplice front is also seen. A
new idea is to trim one side of a sur
plice closing with a turned-back
plated ruff1e Sometimes there is one
rever, bordered with hem of colored
linen, or ruf1ed at the edge, or cut
into scallops buttonholed or bound
with color. The bolero idea is applied
to washable blouses in the form of
lines of hemstitching. which outline a
Jacket form upon the material. An
other new idea is to cut the back of
the blouse and the collar in one 'un
broken piece. A revival of Irish cro-
chet lace is predicted. and one or two
imported models show 1t, but f1let is
the lace of the season for wash fabrics.