The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-03-21
~ ELEANOR noYr BRAINERD.

W. ,o. Ss:, 30 g.. you s.. ..,,,
'OrA heard the question
continually wherever
French frocks were on view at the
New York openings. Moreover, the
tone. like the question. held a doubtful
note. The usual aggressive cocksure-
ness of the importer who has chosen
and brought yer a collection or
models rl%ghtfully wearing h names
OF the most authoritative French
dressmaking houses was lacking.
Each buyer was conscious that ne
had nothing sensational to OFFER. Buy
ing had no been the usual blithe
business. There had been no oppor-
tuni,y Of studying French fashions
outside Of the dressmakers' salons.
Fashio matters had seemed discon-
certingly topsy turvy.
And so there was a disturbed and
anxious look on h face OF the I'M
porter who watched and weighed the
~reception accorded TO his showing.
He was even apologize when criticism
was adverse.
But materials we're limited, you
know. Don't you think they've done
wonderfully well considering the cir
cumstances?"
II Paauin and Cabot and Cheruit
and the others could have heard that.
And yet they themselves would
probabIy be the first TO admit that
their output is not up 70 that OF
normal years. The thing was In
eyitable. That they have been able 20
make the standard as high as II is
speaks elouuently for their artistry.
ond a large percentage Of the frocks
they have sent us are very charming
in spite OF all the difficulties that lay
I'm the way Of their production.
Models Of a superhly elaborate type.
and frocks for Erande toilette are very
few. one misses them Tor thelr
beauty's sake. but n a understand
Their absence. On the other nano'
frocks for Informal evening wear for
afternoon wear. frocks IN the derni-
toilette class, are unusually attractive
and speak loudly of that talent for chic
simplicity which Is one Of the French
dressmaker's most valuable gifts.
II is in this field that the imported
models score heavily. Some American
designers have produced tailored cos
tunes and serge frocks hat compare
favorab!y with anything h French
houses have sent over. but at the FISK
of being considered unpatr.otc one
must admit that the French versions
of the seasons 1890 and 1870 tenden-
cic>. a. exhibited in frocks OF a dressy
sort. are more successful. whether
taken from the viewpoint OF clothes
or pictures. than most OF the models
for which American designers are re-
sponsihle.
\ few exclusive dressmakinR houses
here IN New York which have very
strong foreign affiliations and cater 10
a restricted trade have given us
models that compare ~favorably with
anything h importers ave 10 show:
and one manufacturer who supplies
very high grade models 10 the dress
making and speciality trade all over
the ountr has, to a rather surpris-
ing degree. reasoned his logical way
to about the same conclusions at
which the best French makers seem
~ nav i'S 80 80
most all the features hat have been
generally emphasized in Paris and he
has obtained his s~ilhouettes. his effects
of line. through many Of the same de-
vices that have been used by the best
OF the French designers. But when
complimented upon his achievement
he proved surprisingly modest.
I'm glad you think my things stand
comparison with the French models"
he said. but Paris is wonderful. wal
or no war"
Then he talked about dressmak!ng
g~eneralities and the American eagle
did not so much ss flap his wings in
the gray salons. though he might well
have screamed for honest pride.
But this was TO be a story about
French frocks. II il difficult 10 be
frank about them. difficult to be Just.
The glamour az past achievements, OF
great regulations cling round them