Evening star., 1915-12-10
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.
correspondence of The Star

NEW YORK, December 10.-Even
granting the popularity and the salts
faction given by the one-piecc frock as
a substitute for an elaborate coat suit.
there are still many blouses needed by
those who cling to coats and skirts en-
tirely, or at least have one such cos
tune for which they need something
more than wash shirt waist.
| The Frenchwomen are not given to
combining fancifQl waists with suits
of cloth. preferring the original fash
| ion of mannish shirts, but the French
| designer knows the American public,
| and caters to it in many ways, pro-
viding clothes that are never worn in
Europe. or at least on the continent
| So, every once and awhile. We get a
most aliuring blouse from Paris. The
| best OF the Houses oter there indulge:
| in this Kind of designs. although the
! field of waists. separate ones showed,
| belongs to America Even their white
wash waists are superior to ours. as a
| rule, for they understand the art of
| giving them distinction without orna-
| mentation. which is, after all, difficult
thing to do
| They seem 20 have the most amazing
| power of handling the fabric. even
| though it be commonplace muslin. with
| an artistry that results in simple
/
waist. We have too much trimming,
as a rule, although the days are gone,
| happily. when We thought it necessary
| to heap embroidery on lace. even on a
waist that vas Intended for the morn
ing hours.
/ The dressmakers here are offering
fewer sepa rate Llouses than for several
seasons. because they are pushing the
two kinds of costumcs-the coat and
| skirt that carries a plain muslin waist
= fa Oil r.
frock that serves for all the hours
given over to social recreation.
! Once in while they present some
! thing quite charming as a bait. but
they usually persuade one into buying
| it by saying that il has just arrived
| from the other side.
! New fashions are constantly coming
across this month, despite the activities
French costumery lost was on the
/ Arabic, and enough was drowned then
; to stave Off fate for 4 time.
| Each week sees the importation Of a
| new idea. a new costume, a new hat.
The fashions are not changing in the
sense that the silhouette is cha nging.
or the fabrics; but there are enough
novel and untried touches to give a
decided hilip Of interest to new clothes.
| The blouse shown in the sketch is
one of the importations, and was in
vented by Worth. This house seems to
nave been paying considerable atten-
ton TO this garment, for several have
arrived here for the dressmakers as
well as personal customers, and each OF
them is quite alluring.
The material he has used is pale Jel "
low chiffon, with lace that is sufficient
,ly tinted not to offend the sense Of
at the wrists and neck tend to bring
out the tones OF the chiffon.
The front is pleated and snugly
tucked into the belt of the material,
ny IA la,-sK. tL<.I
sleeves are frankly leg mutton, u
shape which the house Of Worth en-
/ pnasizes this season. They are trans
parent and fall with much fullness over
the long, tight cuff.
! Worth also revives the jabot in this
blouse. point which is very worth
While paying attention to, for IL may
mean that the minor fashion which had
so long and successful a run "A few
years back viii be !einstated.
Jabots Should Return.
II he brings back the jabot Worth
vii! be true to the epoch from which
We are taking many of our costumes
The Girondists, the American revolu-
uonaries, the courtIers Of pre-revolU-
tlonary days, wore the jabot with rare
lace From these epochs we have bor-
! rowed the cape, the position collar.
the hlSh-crowned hat, the coat with
the naring peplum and long waist. the
small mum, the lavish use of fur. Why
not the fun fall of lace, pray?
something must be invented to soften
me high collars we wear, especially on
the street. where one needs a line OF
white to show between the edges of the
uitra-hlsh collar of peltry or cloth
"hen this collar is in the form of g
straight band that has no opening. ther
there is no place for piece of white
pnt every one does not wear tie kline
OF neckpiece that covers the chin.
| IN plain white shir: waists the Jabo'
OF the material edged with hemstitch.
ing is effective. and On certain kinds OF
fancifui biouses to be worn with vel
vet suits, or on blouses that are par
OF 1rocks. the jabot of admirable lace
gives delightful touch.
Are the Low Collars Going?
The woman who looks her worst, ant
feels 1t. in high collar on blouse is
watching the development along thi:
direction with misgivings. She may de
clare that she win never wear one. but
che will. Few people defy a prevailing
fashion with comfort or persistence.
i True. the high collar on blouse
tmakes the coat more becoming. Thai