The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1915-02-15

ton Says Leg of Mutton Sleeves and
FIounced Skirts Are Seen In Fres-
Goes of $500 Years Aso-orgin of
Styles.
Washington are no such
things as new styles in women's fash
ions, according to Pierre Clerget, di-
rector of the high school Of commerce
OF Lyons, France, as Ii appears by the
annual report Of the Smithsonian insti-
tuition.
Pierre Clerget after reviewing fash
ions from the days of the Egyptians to
the present time shows that many
new" styles for 1915 were known In
the period B. 6.
"An English archaeologist, Mr.. Ev-
ans" writes NJ. Clerget, found In the
Mycenaean palace OF Knossos in Crete
some freseoes painted AGO years be-
fore our era showing ladies Of the
court clothed in resplendent garments,
with enormous leg Of mutton sleeves
held to the neck by narrow ribbon;
their bounced skirts. ornamented with
embroidered bands, are expanded be-
hind by enormous bustles."
Thus is the bubble Of the modern
creation of styles pricked
1t was during the reign of Francis |.
and Henry H.. IN the fourteenth and
fifteenth eentarieS. that womens
gowns took on lines conforming to the
body. having previously been chiefly
tunics or robes. Women then appeared
with fitted doublets, skirts and wraps
with collars. And this, says the author.
was "the starting point of fashion
which will sleep only for perpetual re-
awakening, making evolutions In irreg-
ular cycles at the will of its creators.
''The reign Of Henry ". brought us
the great bell skirt, built on springs,
which we find later with the crinoline,"
he says. "Then toward the end Of the
seventeenth century the fullness dimin-
ished giving way to padded dresses.
Reduction in the size of the skirt con
tinued until about 1850, when fullness
again came into fashion, and by 1885
the skirts were ridiculously full. There
was another reaction, the hoopskirt,
gave way first to the hustle, then to
the one piece gown.
skirts We're very full again toward
graduations, with a partial return 10
fullness In the back, ended In 1860 and
1865 in the eliminating point OF the
crinoline. This marks the departure
from orientalism and brings us toward
the epoch when very simple and
straight robes were worn, until we
reach the other extreme, the clinging
gown, not forgetting the harem skirt.
an exaggerated revised edition Of the
eccentricities Of the period from 1905 to
1916"
And so the cycle revolves.
After outlining the effect upon styles
exerted first by monarchs and then
more recently by modistes, NJ. Clerget
gives an expose of the manner in which
many styles are created and of the
tride often necessary for their coming
into being.
"Any striking idea may inspire a
fashion," he says. Under Louis Phil
lippe all fashionable young men Of the
capital wanted their trousers plated at
the hips like those of the African
chasseurs. Trocadero ribbons became
the rage as a souvenir of the voyage
OF the Duke Of Angouleme to Spain,
and the Russo-Japanese war gave us
the kimono. 1t is to the passion for
I sports that we owe the English styles,
the success of the tailor made costume,
/ the fashion for furs and leather gar
ments.
Literature also has been a great In
spiration, as shown by the works of
Victor Hugo. The use of white mus
Inns was the inspiration of Taglioni, as
were the waves Of the Danube taf-
fetas, while 'Atala' collars and the
Marie Stuart hats were successfully
worn.
"And, while we have spoken up to
this point simply of clcthing, we should
not think that this Is the limit Of fash
IONS domain. 1t controls conversation,
the manner OF walking, how to shake
hands. Such word as 'epatant' (stun-
ning) owes to fashion its recent admit
tance to the Dictionary of the Acade-
my The general use Of such drink
as tea. the abandonment of wine in
certain circles. vegetarianism, may all
be regarded as fashions. The passion
for travelling and for sports becomes
widespread. there is less taste for
home, there Is less desire for books and
interior ornaments.
what are the economical results Of
fashion," asks M. Clerget- And his
answer Is Many and varied"
Changing fashions. he points out,
tend to aid first one commercial branch
/ then another. and so on indefinitely.
In the matter OF materials. he says.
the demand Is growing greataI Tor