davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1915-04-03

Will help TO CAIN ner LnlS year. TUE
expect to spend my usual $40 for a
hat (Which really can't afford) be-
fore April fourth.-Bemardine."
"Bernardine" has inadvertently hit
upon a tremendous and persistent
phase in the psychology of woman.
Cleopatra dissolved pearls in wine.
This was a unique, artistic and dra-
matte exploit and therefore worth the
price in comfort to her soul.
In Just the same way, every little
girl who works today likes to waste
money lavishly in her own pet fash
ion. And this is real economy be-
cause it gives her so much joy. Often
it is the only way she has to express
the artistic or dramatic instinct with
in her.
1t may be because she loves sculp-
ture and line and not for vanity's
sake-that she has high priced
corset made to order.
A certain woman teacher proclaims
proudly that she has never bought
pound of candy in her life-but has
a splendid library where her artistic
soul takes it's pleasure.
And a little factory worker who
supports her mother and her crippled
brother keeps a flower blooming in
her room the whole year round. Il
can't afford it." she explains to the
practical critic, ''but should cry my
self sick without it.
Which brings us back to Bernar-
dimes Easter bonnet.
The hat is an expression of artistic
feeling in which every woman in
duIges. For a great many it is the
only art expression possible.
If it gives to Bernardine or to any
other girl who works the pleasure of
the artist, if it eIeYates her for the
moment to the company of the great
dreamers, the poets and the painters,
then a hat is economical at any cost.
But there are different ways and
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
PLEASING TRANSFORMATION on
WALNUT FURNITURE.

Surely there must be many wom-
en- who possess as do an old bed
stead and bureau handed down not
from the good old times when furni-
ture was worthily made after good de-
signs. but from the days when the
csbinetmaker strove to see how heavy
he could make piece and how much
he could spoil the beauty of the wal
nut by 'ornamenting' it with fancy
carving, A handsome and once ex-
pensive set of this kind descended
to me. What should do with it in
a modern home? Perhaps the way |
solved this problem by remodeling the
clumsy pieces may be interesting to
Others writes a contributor to the
Dallas News.
Nearly all of the large headboards
of the walnut beds of a generation
back had a wide panel of plain wood
near the bottom which was usually
hidden by the pillowshams. l had a
carpenter remove this panel from my
bed by saving through the posts at
either side of the headboard; he then
screwed cleats at the back of the POSTS
to hold the rest of the headboard firm
and secure, leaving it about Is inches
higher than the footboard. This sim
pie alteration made vast improve
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

These newer neckwear styles, which
in the beginning seemed to be al<y
reaching in character. are now fash-
Toned to turn over the collar band.
Turnback cuffs and collars Of en-
broidered lawn, batiste or linen are In
splendid style position. They promise
to continue their vogue until the next
season and may develop along very
charming lines.
Bits Of real lace. oddments Of valen-
ciennes and other laces OF this char
acter can be used to splendid advan-
tage In making these new style collars
and cuffs.
It may be that with the introduction a.
the new style quaintnessss which char
acterize the revival Of sncient modes
now dominating an style tendsnciss
fashionable women viii buby thelI-
selves. as did the women Of old. IN
making yards OF hand hemstitched
bouncing for the trimming Of summer
frocks or IN whipping and rolling RUIZ
fies made Of very sheer linens for the
adornment OF the finer gowns.
To make neckN ear Is to indulge IN
very dainty handworlx. the counterpart
OF which commands high prices Ia Tie
shops.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
BECAUSE OF
THE WAR

BECAUSE Of the war many Of the
spring modes will be distinctly
military in character-tn fact, the
smart style suits for midwintsr wear
are decidedly military in effect and so
-replete in their trimming motifs. with
the various insignia which distinguish
the dress Uniforms OF the various le-
gions. one can almost recognize the
regimentals. Well liked is a Russian
Cossack uniform in which can be
traced the tendency OF the spring
styles toward the full skirt and fitted
bodice.
Colors for cloth suits are dubbed with
new names. All Of these are of war
like character. Battleshfp gray Is the
name for that color, Of which q famous
war correspondent spoke as so subtle
a tint 1T dissolved into the mists of
the landscape" In passing let it be
noted that the name is a neutral nom
&c plume. :.'.
Sand shades are everywhere. New
voices sing solos about the colors which
will bloom in spring fashions, while
they call our attention to the efforts al;
ready being made to provide q cheerful
atmosphere among the trades by an.
early introduction of colored millinery
+coIored hosiery and shoes and very
brightly colored wells and other dress
accessories.
Later on we shall speak of lgodet
folds, organ plaits and circular skirts
ad infinitum. The close cut shoulder
and the tapering waist will also enter
into the scheme Of things entire, and
don't be at all surprised to see tight
fitting sleeves, buttoned from waist to
elbow; bodiees tightly fitted, with
row Of knobby buttons traversing the
line from waist to throat with order
Iy nicely and severity. T. 20
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
TIPPERARY HAT
NOV in FASHION

Dame Fashion has prepared D. spe.
cial skypiece for -sympathizers with
the allies-the Tipperary hat.
And get this-no hat of the kind
and style was ever worn in Tipperary,
as can be proved by any stonethrower
who ever lived in that famous county.
The Tipperary hat is the outcome
of the popularity of Its q Long. Long
Way to Tipperary," which is sung by
the British expeditionary force and
condemned by some of Tipperary as
misrepresenting them. On the cover of
the song sheet is the picture of
Highlander, wearing Scotch bonnet.
Now, Dame Fashion, being somewhat
confused on. geography and the dis
tinct costumes of the various arms
of the British forces in the field, has
jumped to the conclusion that the bon
net worn by the Highlanders is a Tip
perary product, so they have modelled
their creation on the lines Of the
Scotch bonnet. A score or so of these
''Tipperary" hats are now being worn
by Portland girls
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
NEW YORK RESTAURANTS.

T LUNCHEON and tea hours in the res
taurants are almost as gay as the
evening session, but whereas all the
restaurants are busy and brilliant from
6 o'clock on only a few favored ones
enjoy popularity at luncheon and tea
time. This favor shifts from season to
to season. and the tea place you found
SO gay on your last visit to New York
may be as dull and quiet as q country
railroad station between trains when
you stroll in this year. New Workers
go where the crowd goes, and fancy
is tickle in restaurants as in everything
else. To see New York at tea in the
restaurants one must know the ropes"
and go to -the right places 7where
dancing is the feature or where the
English custom OF permitting women
their cigarettes after the cup OF tea is
followed. E~s-@ up. hi. - ?. !:
Brown and dark green seem to be the
favored restaurant colors, and with
both of these shades blouses Of the
fashionable sand color predominant.
This sand shade Is very pale tan,
somewhat the tint OF natural or un-
bleached silk, and natural silk stock
ings. are having q great vogue.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

Cravatted styles for wear with the
severe new shirts are in vogue, as well
as the lingerie topped velvet or silk
made choker effects. ..
The ascot, which offers a white neck
band with colored tie for folding. is
a warmly welcomed vogue.
Striped silks and satins are in the
very heyday of voguish supremacy.
These charming waists tone beauti-
fully for wear with the neutral tinted
tailleur Of cloth.
These striped silks, as well as the
novelty effects, figure very largely as
modish touches for blouses OF lace and
chiffon made along rather severely cut
lines.
They are selected for the modelling
OF collars and cuffs for these waists.
lending a touch Of supreme elegance
and tonal beauty to these otherwise
rather fragile appearing blouses.
In odd contradiction. blouses OF
crepe de chine, satin, corduroy or Grape
are made with trimmings OF white
pique.
OF course the dark colored silk or
flannel, which is accompanied by collar
and cuffs Of the newer lingerie types,
Is extremely modish.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

You must wear strings on the back
or the side Of your hat the coming
spring If you would be strictly in the
modish picture. The motor hat Illus
trated here shows you just how chic
the style is. The hat was developed in
beige suede with square crown and
a narrow English brim. A band Of
beige grosgrain ribbon encircles the
hat, with two ends falling over the
brim In. the back. On the ribbon band
are appliqued fat chrysanthemums Of
leather.
In the center Of the picture q novel
collar and vest OF lace are shown. The
vest Is buttoned straight down the
front with tiny black velvet buttons
and Is finished at the top by q straight
high collar Of the velvet. Emerging
from the top of the velvet collar Is a
lace collar. which falls TO the shoulders
in the form Of q cape.
At the right is pictured directoire
collar of cream net with an embroid-
cred border. 1t is cut OF abruptly be-
low the ear and held In place by an
inch wide ribbon Of black velvet, which
closes with a single snap fastener be-
meath a fat bow Of the velvet.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
SEMI.TAILORED
SUITS WILL Be
IN VOGUE AGAIN

According to the advance styles for
spring, there Is every reason to believe
that semi.tailofed suits ysill be popular
and that they will emh1dy many new
ideas. Among these are yokes OF q
wide variety Of shapes and styles,
some OF these extending across both
the front and back, same in the back
alone and others in INST the front,
and OF all shapes, Including round,
square and crescent shape. The lower
part OF coats will show much more
fulness, and will be set on to- yokes
either shirred or plated, and others
will be seen set on plain and the full
ness at the bottom be made through
the flaring effect, being plain where ii
Joins the yoke.
Yokes also appear on the skirts, and
II is thought that they will be one
of the leading style features of skirts
for the season. The SKIRT is set on in
gathered form or 1t is Lain with yoke
set over it. The double skirt effect
with the ail-around yoke is new fea-
ture that promises 70 be leader
among the STYLES for next season.
The dip front is another idea Of the
advance models, the coat being Gu.
short in the back and with the pointed
effect IN the front. en- one model
was seen the same effect in the tunic.
the front dip reaching to the bottom
OF the skirt.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
SKIRT HAN FRS.

Skirt hangers are easily made and
can readily be sent through the mail,
says the Detroit Free Press. About
IL inches of mercerizcd betting is re-
quired for a pair OF skirt holders. Cut
the betting into two eqEal pieces; fold
one piece in half and IA the fold fast
en- the top of a threeiach safety pin
by stitching the goods close to the
pin. Then sew the two ends togeth
er In French seam. enclosing q bone
ring. Before joining The ends, cross
stitch flower spray or the recipients
initials on the front of the hanger
The skirt is attached at the band tc
the pins and suspended from the
hooks by means of the rings. These
hangers solve the problem of a crease
less skirt.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
PLAIN GINGERBREAD.

One cup molasses, II cup lard, "
cup butter, / tablespoonful soda dis
solved in hot water, tablespoonful
ginger, " cup sour milk. Thicker
with -four to soft dough. Warm the
molasses, lard, butter and ginger and
beat them for 10 minutes before adj
ding the milk, soda and -four. Roll
out, cut and bake in a quick but not
too hot oven. When cooked brush over
with whites of egg. Keep in tight tin
box .--4-. IT.. -.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

artist-weaver can weave only about q
square yard In the course Of a year. At
the Gobelins this square yard costs
about $3.50. which does not include
taxes, insurance, interest on cost Of
plant rental for the apartments of the
weaver. etc. ~
The art OF weaving tapestries was
undeEstaed IN tie remote ages RHd<Was
discovered but little later than the art
OF mural decoration. Of which branch
OF art It. Of course. really forms q
part. It Is q long journey, however
from the coarse, and crude examples
Of tapestry used in ancient times by
wandering tribes to decorate their
tents to the sumptuous textile paint
ings of the fifteenth, sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries. used by the rich
and noble to decorate their wonderful
palaces.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

~broche," which Is not q shuttle nor
yet a bobbin and for which there is
no equivalent word in English. The
picture is developed upon the warp by
the wool carried by the broche.
The number OF warp threads which
are covered by one pass of the broche
and one thread Of the wool are only as
many as are included in q single shade
or tone Of color. ...+ II. H.. ......
In background scenes and skies the
wool thread may cover at each pass
from thirty to sixty warp threads, but
when personages or their costumes are
being woven 1t rarely covers more than
two or three. In high art haute lisse tap
estries. well filled with personages, the
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

ment in the appearance of the bed.
Next the bureau was taken in hand.
This had the usual large, square,
beveled mirror in a plain frame, but
attached at either side, and swinging
loose from an deliberately carved
framework. The carpenter first de-
tached the mirror from it's supports
and unscrewed the framework which
had enclosed it from the lower part
of the bureau The mirror was then
hung on the wall above what had be-
come in effect an oldfashioned chest
Of drawers, and / am more than
pleased with my walnut bureau as it
appears now. l might add that the
cost of all of these alterations was
less than two dollars. ..s s.-.-.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
NEW DRESS MODELS.

Crossbar taffeta is used for making
one of the new dress models. The
skirt is full and has five cordings
from the hip line to the deep hem.
The bodice is equally plain, made
with the neck pointed in front and
round in the back, and finished with
a fichu of silk net. Short cap sleeves
are edged with fur. Another model
carries out the same idea of cordings
in the full skirt, and is shown in yell
low faille, with white lace sleeves in
half length. - .T........ e.. ....s>. Z
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

experience be must have to make .
finished product that win be satisfac-
tory 70 himself and others.
So It came about that only very great
artists IA the days or the best period
sf tapestry weaving we're employed to
weave tapestries A tapestry Is q dec
orative painting In tissue, and the
loom, sheswarp ana tive wool are 70 the
weaver what the brush, palette and
paints are to the painter Of pictures
There are two kinds Of tapestries
shauts nsses and rbasse hsse. or "up-
FIGHT warp" and horizontal warp"
rhe cobelins are woven In haute lisse.
buf at Beauxais. Aub.sson and Malines
only basse lisse IL used.
In both kinds the warp threads are
stretched on rollers very faulty about
twenty-five TO twensy-six to the inch.
The Interviewing Is done with q
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
TAPESTRY HUNG DINING ROOM

But the person who likes q wide and
varied information will find much
pleasure in tracing the history Of
tapestries. They have been used at
great tournaments. at the funerals Of
important personages, at royal mar
riages and at the coronation OF popes,
emperors and kings. Great generals
carried them to war. AS banners in
patrician homes they have always oc-
cupied the place Of honor. and In
churches they have helped to add to
the mystical feeling Of the worshipers.
There are two museums in Eu-
rope devoted exclusively to the exhi-
billions of tapestries and textile prod
ucts-the Gobelins in Paris and the
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
REEFSTEAK Pie

Cut steak into inchlong pieces.
Stew with bone barely covered with
water Parboil a dozen potatoes.
When both are cooked put in a layer
of beef, with salt and pepper and a
little chopped onion; then one of
sliced potatoes, with little butter
and so on until the dish is full. Pour
over all the gravy in which the meat
was stewed first thicken with -FOUR.
Cover with crust and leave slit in
middle. Bake in moderate oven.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
SHIRTWAIST AND SKIRT. FAST.
ENED TOGETHER SECURELY.

One woman says she has solved the
question of fastening her .shirtwaist
and skirt together securely and econo-
mically, without pins to bother with
or tear the waist, and she can dress
much quicker than ever before. Her
device consists of three large hooks,
two in the back and one in the front,
sewed securely to the corset four
inches below the waist line, and tapes
fastened in loops to the belt Of the
shirtwaist to correspond with the
hooks, the right length to hold the
waist in place when the tapes are
slipped over the hooks. The waist
cannot slip up, and the skirt band will
stay in place without help if the band
is sufficiently tight. The belt of the
shirtwaist is stitched on the inside OF
the waist, so there is no chance OF
its showing above the band Of the
skirt. + .-s ~. ~ ~
CHOICE OF VEGETABLES.
Selection of the vegetables for din
ner has much to do with the success
of meal Those which resemble each
other should be avoided, as squash,
sweet potatoes and parsnips, and with
these pumpkin pie should be omitted;
also, more than one vegetable requir-
ing the same kind of dressing. as
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
WHITE BROTH.

Place in large urn on moderate fire,
heavy knuekle of veal. cover with
cold water. add handful salt and skim
when boiling. Put in two large, well
scraped carrots. one turnip. one whole
onion speeled), one parsley root, three
leeks and some celery. Boil on slow
FIRE for six hours. Strain and keep
for general use.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

Mis-. lt-"What do you suppose is the
great attraction about these aero
meeas" Sayit-''The attraction of
grayitation. Boston Transcript.
JConstanee-"Is it an engagement
Clare with new ring)-"No. Just
skirmish. "-Tit-Bi
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
BANANA PIE.

Free enough bananas. from skin
and coarse threads to fill a cup, when
the pulp Is pressed through a sieve or
ricer. To the pulp add beaten egg,
e cup sugar, ! cracker powdered fine,
y teaspoon salt, little cinnamon, 3
tablespoons molasses, 1-3 cup cream,
Is cup milk. Mix thoroughly ana
bake until firm in fry-pan lined with
pastry as for squash pie.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
BAKED TOAST.

Dip each slice Of toast as it comes
from the ,toaster in boiling milk, but.
ter, salt and lay in deep covered
dish. Have enough boiling milk in a
saucepan to cover all well. When the
slices are packed salt and pour in
melted butter. Cover closely and let
stand in hot oven for 10 minutes be-
fore serving. This is very good for
inyalids. ~ " "...:'a - -~ :
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
BAKED APPLE PUDDING,

Six large, firm apples (grated), 8
tablespoonfuls butter, u cup sugar,
ggs-whites and yolks separate, juice
of lemon and half the peel. Beat
the butter and sugar to cream, stir
in the yolks, the lemon, the grated
apple and lastly the whites of eggs
Crate nutmeg over the top and bake
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
RY A BRIDE.

spoonful of baking powder, ] tea
spoonful salt. Work up very lightly
and quickly and do not get too stiff.
Pour over ingredients for pie -
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

Perkins looks worried. Must. have
some big problem on his mind. ;" Yes.
He's trying to fit a 1910 mortgage to a
1911 touring car."-Life.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

-HE agreeable effect OF tapestry
used sparingly in this hand
some dining room inspires me
u TO write something about tap
estries IN general
In the making OF tapestry, az in the
making Of life, the busy weayer's nm.
ished product 10 hidden from him.
Neither, TO carry the parallel a little
farther, can change the finished tap
estery any more than he can change
the finished product az his life. The
artist in paints or words or architec-
ture can change his painting or ms
written article or his building but the
tapestry weayers work must remain
% IL II woven. Talent and skill ana
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

A wagon manufacturing company of
Louisville, KY, has begun work on
5000 portable kitchen wagons for the
French army.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

Private Owen Ross of the British
garrison at Gibraltar was upheld for
killing Ernest Palm, a German pris-
oner ofNwar who was trying to escape.
creamed carrots, or a vinegar dress
ing, as cahbages, beets and spinach.
Variety in Harors, rather than those
that bear near relation to each 9TH
er. gives the most satisfactory results
and is the most appetizing.
TO CLEAN MOTHER or PEARL.
Handles OF archaeological or other
articles of the same material may be
restored by cleaning with pure olive
oil and rubbing with 4 nail brrsh. fol-
lowed by . rubbing with piece Of
chamois.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

CRUST FOR MEAT PIES.
One quart -four, tablespoonfuls of
lard, 2k cups milk, rounded tea
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05

Crocetta In Florence. Those exhibited
at the Gobelins have been selected
with especial care so that each piece
shall be an object lesson to the stu
dent. Most tapestry historians fail to
award Flanders her just rank as the
greatest of all the centers of tapestry
weaving. For over three centuries the
Elemish tapestries collapsed. all others
in magDifoence and excellence, but
gradually France, as she grew in inn.
portance. absorbed the weayers and
ateliers Of Flanders. and at the pres
.ent time France has 1t about her own
way with the tapestry art, d,
.as slA~'tf
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-02-05
RECIPES TRIED AND FOUND VERY SUCCESSFUL By
WOMEN OF HONOLULU r.. 49,

until nicely Drowned. Eat cold with
cream. -