davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1915-02-24

AN ORDINANCE PROVIDING FOR THE
MAINTENANCE OF LIGHTS AND
GUARDS AT PLACES WHERE
OR OBSTRT CTFD
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

skirts fell modestly half way between
knee and ankle and were invariably
of fiannel-which does not cling. But
bathing suits at the Paris beaches
were alluring affairs in the way Of
little sleeveless tunics above full
boomers, worn with or without stock
ings, as one chose. And by and by
the bloomer-tunic bathing suit came
to America and was received with ac-
claim. 1t is really perfectly modest
affair and much better for swimming
than the skirted costume.
So woman has been gradually edu-
Gated UP to the pantalet idea and its
coming has not created half the ex-
element and horror that might have
been expected. Some of the skating
costumes of the winter show short
skirts-just to the knee-over "panta-
lets" of silk which meet the top Of
tall skating boots. These so-called
pantalets are really no more nor less
than ordinary silk boomers, like the
boomers worn beneath bathing skirts.
and they are rather pretty idea In
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

waiting; really prettier than the trans
parent lace f1ounce which hung be-
low short dancing frocks last season
a daring idea but not always a grace
full or charming feature of the CO.'S
tune.
The pantalet frock which will
doubtless attract most attention,
among today's photographs. Is the
really delectable dance frock of lace
and crystal paillettes and beads, a
model reproducing the frilled and
hoop-skirted creation of early Vic
torian days. The pantalets, worn I'M
der the short, lace-frilled skirt, are
of silver tissue, shirred around the
ankle and finished with a fringe OF
crystal beads. The skirt is very wide
of gathered net as far as the first
lace rutfle. Below this is very thin
white silk, run with a hoop at the
hem. The lace ruffies are pailletted
with crystal and are set on the skirt
with crystal bead fringe. Under the
net overskirt is the skirt of thin silk
to which are attached the two lower
ruffles. Crystal bead fringe trims this
silk underskirt over the hips, showing
through the net drop. The bodice Il
made of strings of crystal beads and
the bead sleeves are especially beau
tiful. White silk roses trim the over
skirt and are tucked into the girdle,
1t would be a prude indeed who could
raise any possible objection to the gay
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

it's name is-food. Eat properly at
all times If you want to retain fresh.
fair complexion into old age. In
proper food can turn even the love-
Hest skin of sirlhood into dull. life
less, muddy skin at thirty. It is hard
to resist good things to eat (and
drink but resist one must, II the COM
plexion Is valued. One cup of coffee
a day can hurt nobody, but four cups
Of coffee day will soon ruin the best
complexion. Too much butter. oil. fat
and rich gravy or fried food will make
the skin coarse, and perhaps cause II
to break out. Too little oily food. on
the contrary. will give leathery skin.
easily wrinkled. Every woman knows
the danger Of sweets. Over-indul-
gence in candy and pastry Is almost
certain to ruin the fine texture Of the
skin. The rule of one sweet day.
one meat day. three pints of water
a day and plenty of fruit and vegeta-
bles Is a safe one to go by.
And Just little ecret-speaking of
vegetables-the girl who eats gener-
ously of carrots will be rewarded
with a fair white skin and blush-ross
cheeks.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

little fringed pantalets which peep so
coyly from under the fluffy skirt of
this delightful Victorian gown.
If the aforesaid prude has anything
to object to, perhaps she would bet
ter conflne her attention to bodices of
opera and dinner gowns of the period
and leave inoffensive little pantalets
alone. Certainly the decolletage of
the pantaleted gown in another illus
tration leaves little to the imagina-
ton. The skirt and short train are
of white taffeta brocade and the train
Is bordered with sealskin. Under the
draped and slashed skirt is visible the
pantalet-of white silk with an edge
of silver lace and narrow trimming of
sealskin. A bow of silver ribbon gives
special coquetry to the pantalet. The
bodice-so- called--is made of strip
of silver lace, draped over at one side
with the white brocaded taffeta, and
little seal colored chiffon and some
cleverly arranged sealskin effect a
trim girdle. The rest of the bodice is
pearl beads
I Pantalets have strange relation
ship to Turkish trousers in another
gown superbly colored dinner
gown of peacock blue and silver bro
icade. The draped overskirt and twin
point train are bordered with hand
some silver lace, the bold pattern of
which carries out the Oriental sug-
gestion in the gown. The brocade is
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

in q wonderful shade of peacock blue.
very beautiful in combination with sill
yer; the pantalets are of purple satin,
also silver trimmed, and the bodice
is of silver lace over flesh tinted satin.
A piping of purple velvet edges the
bodice at the top and the slippers are
purple and silver brocade
In the afternoon frock of bronze
toned velvet, pantalets are introduced
as a coquettish detail. They do not
obtrude themselves at all for they are
of bronze-toned taffeta with bands of
bronze velvet and blend in with the
color scheme of the costume. They
are. moreover, not gathered around
the ankles but taper to the shape of
the leg, fitting closely over the bronze
silk stocking. The gay, swinging tas-
sells which decorate the pantalets are
their chief claim to coquetry. The
frock is q particularly charming one
for formal afternoon occasions, and
even If one chooses to omit the panta-
lets, the style of the costume is worth
considering carefully. The skirt of
velvet is circular in cut and flares
widely at the foot, though the weight
of the velvet holds this fare in soft,
heavy folds. Because of the uneven
length of this skirt 1t is faced with
light tan silk, to match the tan chiffon
in the bodice; If desired, the skirt
could be cut in ordinary length and
this facing and the pantalets omitted.
The bodice of bronze velvet is slightly
draped at the waistline above a shaped
girdle which gives the effect of a
pointed basque. The manner of slash
ing the bodice in deep points over a
yoke of chiffon is clearly indicated in
the picture. The sleeves of chiffon
have draped velvet cuffs to the elbow.
Over the tall collar OF chiffon is skel-
eton strap collar of velvet-an inter
esting detail which adds to the smart
ness of the bodice. Bronze beaded
slippers accompany this costume.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

aers of the pantalet. Riding brooches.
for one. A few years ago all women
used side-saddles and the daring spir-
Its who adopted cross saddles (to-
gether with bifurcated riding gar
ments) were frowned upon heavily by
Mrs. Grundy. But the comfort and
grace of cross-saddle riding soon es-
tablished this tomboyish method-to
quote those who still believe it repre-
hensible-and riding coats over bona
6de breeches are such an ordinary
sight now that nobody turns around
to look at them. Pajamas, also, had
their share in accustoming Mrs. Grun-
dy to the idea of women in bifur-
Gated garments. So many women
wear pajamas nowadays that they are
kept regularly in stock in all the de-
partment stores, in varied assort-
ment of sizes and qualities. Next
came r-bathing-suits. A few
seasons ago all bathing suits, In
America at least, had skirts to the
knee or an inch or two below the
knee. generation ago bathing suit
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26
LG7z1N2K12u k~l6AAM5
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the head to hold the hair back from
the face, or don a boudoir cap If you
prefer. Draw basin of warm-al-
most hot-water and drop in a heap
Ing teaspoonful Of borax. Lean over
the steaming water a moment or two,
manipulating the flesh Of the face over
the steam. Then, with a soft face
brush and pure glycerine soap, scrub
the face thoroughly, cheeks. brows,
chin, nose and the skin all around the
ears which has way of becoming
grimy in winter if not carefully at
tended to. When the face is beauti-
fully clean and glowing, massage 1t
patiently for ten minutes with good
face cream, using two fingers in a
light, firm and persistent stroke, al
ways tending upward. Here is an ex-
cellent recipe for skin food.
Half an ounce each of white wax
and spermacetti. An ounce each of
socoanut oil and lanolin. Two ounces
Of oil of sweet almonds. Melt all to-
Eether in porcelain saucepan. re-
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

T is much more difficult to keep
the skin in fine condition through
the winter months than from
April to November. In SUNNI err
time perspiration takes care of the
complexion. 1t keeps the pores open
and the skin free of impurities. 1t
bleaches the skin also, and makes 1t
younger and fresher-less leathery, in
fact--so that rosy color CLOVIS through.
After several months of winter
gaiety the complexion seems to have
lost all this freshness and bloom. Lit
tie lines have appeared again on the
forehead and around the mouth.
Viewed in a strong, mid-morning
light, the skin has a yellowish. lifeless
look. 1t is muddy, dull and lifeless.
OF course one has stayed up late.
night after night-a gay season de-
mands that-and of course one has
eaten more or less of rich, unwhole-
some foods. But the real trouble
comes from dryness of the skin and
exposure to dust and winter winds.
And there is just a possibility that the
face has not been washed enough.
This arouses some indignation in the
woman who protests Immediately: Il
have my warm bath every night ana
my cold sponge every morning"
Granted; but how much of that warm
bath does the face get, and how much
Of the cold sponge in the morning?
Very few individuals sit in the bath
tub and carefully wash the face be-
fore beginning to splash the water
over arms. neck and shoulders. Even
when the body Is luxuriously bathed
twice a day, the poor face often gets
but dab or two night and morning.
The face, especially In winter.
should be thoroughly washed with q
clean washcloth, or with the palms of
the hands, every night and every
morning; at night with warm water
Into which pinch of borax has been
dropped. and in the morning with
very cold water-as cold as can be
borne. Once or twice q week, pref
erably twice. the face must be treated
to regular scrub-bath, a massage
and an application of cold cream.
This operation will consume at least
half an hour If 1t is properly per-
formed and should not be hurried.
First. tie ribbon snugly around
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

move from stove and beat in an ounce
of orange flower water and three
drops of tincture of benzoin. Continue
beating until the mixture is soft and
fine of texture, about the consistency
of rich cream. Then set in a cool
place in covered Jars.
After the massage, bathe the face
again in warm water, then rinse in
cooler water. then again in cold water.
Finally, go over every bit of the face
with a lump of ice. holding the ice.
partly covered by towel or a clean
wash-cloth.
After this treatment the face will
but there are other things which
must help the bath and massage.
Plenty of air in the lungs Is an I'M
perative necessity. Nine women out
of ten breathe too lightly-a good
deep breath almost never gets to the
bottom of their lungs. This is another
reason why the skin is better In the
summer. Exercise demands deep
breathing, and deep breathing drives
impurities from the blood. Stand
before your open window each morn
ing, wrapped in a warm bath
gown, of course, and draw in
slowly twenty deep breaths, expell-
ing them slowly, also. Then close the
window. HE to the bathroom and take
your cold plunge-or sponge. as you
ppefer-rubbing the whole body brisk
ly with a rough towel afterward. Dur
ing your daily walks in the street,
walk as fast as you comfortably can,
with head up, and remember to draw
as long, deep breaths as you can. In
cidentally, deep breathing helps to
keep down the waistline. Nothing
burns up excess Of fat in the body
like plenty of oxygen.
If you notice that the muscles of
face and chin are sagging and dis
pleasing little lines are beginning to
appear around the eyes and mouth,
use this stringent wash two or three
times each week. Add teaspoonful
Of flne table salt to a cup of fresh milk
and battle face and neck with the
mixture. Do not wipe the face dry;
pat it lightly with the palm OF the
hand. The milk should be allowed to
remain in the pores Of the skin. Sew
eral women who have tried this vouch
Tor its wonderful results In Tightening
up sagging face muscles and smooth
Ing out lines.
There is one other item In the treat
ment Of the complexion In winter
a most important item 1t is. too. And
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

he skating costume. If the top OF
The skating boot were several inches
lower and the "pantalet" correspond
ingly longer, the effect would be hor-
rible, but the tall boot gives an effect
of trimness below the knee-length
skirt and an inch or two or full
bloomer.
The Pantalet As This Winter Sees It.
Several costumes from the most ex-
elusive retail establishments in Man
haitian have been selected for today's
page, to give an idea of just how the
pantalet up-to-date makes part OF
woman's ensemble. That the effect is
not very fearsome, after ain most will
admit. In fact, in one or two of the
pictured frocks 1t is rather capti-
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26
SUEDE SPORT JACKETS FOR THE
SKATER.

r INSTEAD of the old-fashioned
spencer, or "hug-me-tight" of
knitted shetland wool, which gives
extra warmth under the motor coat
or skating coat. the modern girl wears
a very natty sport jacket of soft suede,
tailored to perfection and provided
with knowing little straps and buckles
here and there. These jackets come
In brown, green and crimson suede.
stitched deliberately in self-tone. and
they fit very smoothly under the outer
coat
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1915-12-26

j mors of them had stirred the
fashionable world, of course, for last
season pantalets were seen at some of
the European summer resorts-the few
Fairgrounds of Europe not devastated
by war. But thus far pantalets had
been merely a rumor-only 81 fear
some possibility, as were bustles and
hoop-skirts about year ago. Now,
fashion has adopted both these gro
tesque styles from an earlier era, so
there seems no reason why pantalets
should not have their little day also.
Pantalets on the Stage.
The first pantalet appeared, as has
been said, back in November, when
young woman stepped from taxi
cab In front OF Delmonico's wearing
short frock of biscuit colored Chit
fon, distended over several hoops, be-
low the skirt pantalets, also Of bis
cult chiffon, were gathered into a lit
tie frill just above the ankle, show
Ing Just an inch or two of cream
colored silk stocking and patent
leather slippers. Next day all the pa
pers recorded this astounding occur
renee and in no time pantalets dis
ported themselves in the show win
dows of the big shops, and Haunted
their demure coquetry in the fashion
magazines.
Last season pantalets made ten
tative appearance on the stage. One
example is cited in the negligee Of
white chiffon and lace, pictured to-
day. There is something indisputably
fetching about this negligee in spite
of its fearsome boldness. When it
appeared every woman in the audi
ence breathed a long "Ah-ah!" OF APP
probation, but no woman dared to
copy the fascinating garment for her
own wear at home. Most husbands
would have objected those who did
not object would have jeered. But
this season pantalet negligees are the
craze and some of them are enchant-
Ing For example, negligee of pink
Georgette crepe and silver lace which
has coat of the pale pink crepe,
embroidered in silver, falling to the
knee, above baggy pantalets OF silver
lace over pink silk, gathered under
anklets of swansdown. The wide
sleeves of the coat are edged with
swansdown and the garment is belted
with pink and silver brocade, the
sash-ends, falling in front. supporting
silver tassels. The negligee in the
picture has pantalets of white MESA
line silk edged with swansdown. Over
them is draped = sort of tunic Of white
chiffon, gathered OF the back into q
crystal bead tassel. A little coat Of
lace. edged with swansdown. opens
over the white messaline underslip,
and a conventional rose in old pink
and green adds a smart and telling
color touch at the waistline. The cap
OF white messaline and swansdown
has crystal bead tassel.
Pnntalets on the Skating Costume.
There have been several forerun-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03

| The federal reserve board made pub
lie yesterday its weekly bank state
ment as at close Of business October l.
Telegraphic communication with New
Orleans having been interrupted, the
! figures for the New Orleans branch Of
! the Atlanta federal reserve bank show
t ing the condition Of the branch as at
close of business September 2s were
| used.
| The statement indicates net cash
| withdrawals of about $13,0OO,0oO and a
decrease in gold reserve of about
| SO. 500 900. The decrease in the banks
gold reserves is more than fully offset
| by the deposit of more than $S,0O0,0Oo
of gold with federal reserve agents to
reduce their liability on outstanding
reserve notes. and to release maturing
commercial paper. The New YORK
bank shows an increase OF $3,9o0.ooo
in it's gold reserve, while Philade lphia,
ST. Louis, Boston and Chicago report
the largest Withdrawals of gold for the
past week.
The banks increased activity is in
Dictated by the gains shown in the
totals of Investments held The amount
Of commercial paper on hand decreased
by about S1.80O.OO0 since the end Of the
previous week. largely as the result OF
the liquidation by October 1 Of con-
siderable amounts of paper held by the
nlchmond and Dallas banks. Bank ac-
ceptances on hand increased $1,SuU, 900,
tne boston bank reporting practically
the entire gain.
OF the total amount of bills on hand
I2.9 per cent was paper maturing
within ten DAYS, compared with IL
per cent the week before. while the
percentage of paper maturing after
ten but within thirty days shows but
a slight change A considerable in
crease since the previous week is
and livestock paper maturing after
ninety days, Dallas alone reporting a
gain of SS52,ooO of this class of paper
There has been practically no change
in tine amount of United States bonds
on hand. The Cleveland bank reports
an increase of about $2,OU0,uUo in the
amount of municipal warrants on hand
Gains under this head are also report
ed by all other. except the southern
banks, The ratio of earning funds
Including bills and investments) to
capital stands now at about $50 per
cent, as against 144 the week before
and 1o4 three months ago. During the
latter period the amount of earning
funds increased from So millions to
SIG millions. the highest figure report
ed since the opening of the banks
Reserve deposits. as distinct from
government deposits. show a net de-
crease of S5.200,OOO. New York. Phila-
delphia. Chicago and St Louis report
ing smaller net figures than week
ago
Federal reserve agents report a total
of $141.000.000 of notes outstanding.
against which they hold s123,30O.OOU
of gold and $1s.1o0,Oo0 of paper. AL
most SS,OO0,OO0 of reserve notes were
issued by them to the banks during the
past week. The banks report S122,-
100000 of notes in circulation and
net liability thereon of s14.205.0O0.
Resources and liabilities of the fed
eral reserve bank at Richmond at close
of business October l, were as fol-
lows:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
CHICAGO GRAIN.

CHICAGO. October 2.-Official an
nouncement of big falling off in the
volume of the French crop gave con-
siderable strength today to wheat
prices here. The market closed strong,
rs to 11z net higher. with December
at 96xa $50, and May at 50. Corn An
ished " to / cent under last night.
oats unchanged and provisions at an
advance of tn to Is.
Buying impetus in the wheat pit be-
came the most apparent after the at
tention of traders had been directed to
the prospect of greatly increased i'm
ports being needed in France. The in
ference was drawn by leading Chi
cago authority that as much as $780,
600, 900 bushels would have to be
shipped from other countries to meet
French requirements. 1t was further
more asserted that even this huge total
would be inadequate If the German
forces in France were expelled and the
supplies in the French war zone were
not saved for the civilians of that area.
In this connection. however. the fact
that freight rates on the Atlantic
had reached the highest point ever
known exercises somewhat of re-
straining influence on the bulls.
Rains in Canada and forecast of
general showers over the entire domes-
tic belt tended to lift the wheat mar
ket almost from the outset. Sotwfth-
sanding that a number OF spectators
were free sellers on the advance, no
pronounced bearish result was at any
time noticeable. and the close was at
virtually the top level of the session.
Corn weakened enough to touch the
lowest prices so Tar this season. The
favorable weather acted as a stimulous
for sellers, but covering by shorts was
at times on a liberal scale.
Oats remained almost stationary.
Commission houses absorbed the Offer
ings.
Higher prices in the hog market lift
ed provisions. There was no abatement
In the export demand for cured meats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
TOME DEFEATS CENTRAL.
Blue and White Beaten by Maryland
Team, 81 to 2.

Specl4i U1spatcn 10 Inc S0af
PORT DEPOSIT, Md, October I'm
a rather slow but Interesting game the
Tome School foot ball team opened its
season here this afternoon by defeat
ing the Central High School of Wash
ington. 27 to I. Tome outweighed the
visitors several pounds and had no
trouble in advancing the ball through
straight foot ball. Drummer. the Tome
fullback, was the star of the game,
gaining at will through the line or
around the ends, while his running
through a broken field and his punting
were of high order. Wooster, at left
tackle, was a tower of strength in the
line and fast in running down at kick
offs. Capt. Phillips and Miller. at ends.
covered Brunner's long punts well.
Lynch, at quarterback, used good judg-
ment in his plays and handled the Wis
itors punts we'll. Central High early
found Tones line stone wall and re-
sorted to the use of the forward pass.
The High School boys We're entirely
outclassed. however. until the last few
minutes of play, when. by series of
clever passes, they carried the ball to
the 35-yard line. Here Capt. Ockstadt
made short pass to Cham bliss, who
evaded the Tome defense for touch
down. Ockstadt kicked the goal and a
minute later the whistle blew. Lineup
and summary: