New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-12
cSO

must look even further back to find the so1rce''
of many of the little accessories used-coilars,
berthas cravats, cuffs, belts and sleeves. In
several instances have seen used on velvet
dresses and garments the heavy French CO.
lonial laces, hand-woven from coarse linen
into wide-rneshed. geometrical designs that
prove extremely effective on this elegant ma
terial saw an example OF this heavy lace on
a rich velvet garment in the Premet collection.
and the accompanying muff long. round and
slender had wide ruffled ends lined with the
lace. NJ Tolmann's specially, chosen from
laces and embroideries is in evidetce TINS
season on several of his charming toiletes.
He intends to use great deal OF these dainty
stuffs in the near future in the preparation OF
toilettes for the Riviera, as they are peculiarly
suited to the wider skirts that, now really
accepted, will run the span OF lite usually
allotted to a mode.
FOR THE REAL FRENCH WOMEN.
Madame Grandjean, who expresses in her
designs what is known as the traditional
French taste. and which she generally bestows
upon private customers, is particularly partial
TO pannier effects on evening dresses. Truly
have been produced this season are especially
adapted to this stately fashion. In her PAN
nier dresses punches of flowers or loops OF
ribbon are used to hold the pannier folds IN
place. An evening dress OF thick, rich PINK
silk was stately with short, square train which
fell over short skirt, ful-hounced with white
lace.
The altogether charming old-fashioned min
Cling of black velvet ribbon and pink roses on
dresses OF thin black materials. when presented
in this collection, found instant favor. The
black velvet ribbon was used in several strips
hanging from the belt line, supporting and lift
ing into festoons long, full overdress OF black
tulle above frilled pettcoat. The pink roses
were clustered at the edge OF the low, straight
across the-shoulder corsage and again at the
belt-line.
Modern to the last degree, but elegantly con-
servative to meet the tastes OF his 'partculiere
clientele. Monsieur Weeks this season puts into
enticing form ideas he has culled from old
Russia" in long, ample garments OF rich bro
cades, fur trimmed, and he shows the splen-
dor OF Venetian velvets OF regal coloring with
ornamentaton of metal embroidery, high fur
collars and superb Innings. Of great elegance
is long garment of 'tete de negre" velvet
the whole upper part is covered with magnih-
cent hand embroidery executed in several pale
shades of color ard united with metal threads.
This stitching solidly covers the fabric, but
as it descends below the waist it strays lightly
down onto the velvet, proving the genuineness
of the work The wide, loose-turning cuffs
and the immensely high, curving collar are OF
plain velvet each one different tone OF color
selected from the embroidery. and the garment
is lined with dull blue satin. The splendid gar
ment which stands out in my mind with great
distinctness is of black velvet and built on the
lines of the French "bonne femme country
cloak. with the addition of dolnan sleeves and
a novelty in the shaping OF the collar; this,
after meeting in front, lengthens into one long.
narrow end which is thrown over the lef,
shoulder; big tassel weights it. This beau
tifu cloak is embroidered about the shoulders
and TIE tops of the arms with shaded rides
cent blue beads, and it is lined with blue.