davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-03-27
CHANGING FASHIONS SIGN
 OF HIGHEST CIVIL LAYTON

Washington. March 26.-Monsieur
 Pierre clsrget, director of the High
 School of Commerce, Lyons. France.
 says in a recent publication of the
 Smithsonian institution, that fashion is
 a social custom, transmitted by imita- tion or by tradition; that it is form of luxury in ornamentation. He con- tinures by saying that the caprices of fashion are both frequent and sudden, It is changeable, unreliable, frivolous, and thrusts aside the most careful cal culations. It domineers its universal following, reigning supreme over all classes of society in which the taste for finery dates we'll back toward the very beginning of the world.
 Up to the thirteenth century, wom- en's costumes were chiefly tunics or robes marked by natural simplicity, but in France in the fourteenth and fif- teenth centuries, under Francis I and Henry II, dresses were designed to fol-
 low the lines of the body. Women then appeared in fitted doublets, skirts, and wraps with collars. The sleeves were lleg-ofmutton and balloon shaped, filled with plaits or very tight. At the time
 of Henry III the pointed waist was held in place by a stiff corset, and was ac-
 companied by puffed sleeves, the dress already having the hoop petticoat. The reign of Henry " brought out the great bell skirt built on springs, which was later found with the erino- line. The tendency toward fullness in
 the skirt kept increasing until 1905,
 bringing some dresses to enormous pro-
 portions. Then toward the end of the seventeenth century the fullness dimin-
 ished, giving way to padder dresses
 worn under mantle wraps, though re- appearing again later. Reduction in the
 size of the skirt continued until about lt5O when fullness again came into
 fashion, and by 17S5 the skirts were rdiculously full and expanded with great hoops. There was another reaction and the hoopslkirt gave way, first to the hustle, and then in 1893, to the
 one piece dress, with no ornamentation. Greek robes were seen at fetes and on
 the stage. The directoire dress eXag-
 gerated the plaited style and resem-
 bled the trousers skirt of recent date The empire costume with the high
 waist was another transform, ton Of
 the directoire showing tendency to fullness in the form
 In 1895 there came a more general style for all classes. Skirts were worn
 very full again toward 1910 and, after
 passing through all sorts of gradations.
 with partial return to fu1lness in the
 back, thus style ended between 1860 and
 lsoo Tn the eliminating point of the crlnoline. This marked the departure
 rom orientalism and brought us to-
 ward the epoch of simple and straight
 ropes, which continued until the ex-
 tfeme clinging gowns were reached
 while today we seem about to revert agaln to more voluminous style of dress.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-03-27

Beginning with Worth in 1S46 the best known modiste has been the ere ating artist of fashion The modiste seeks out the designs, fits the forms harmonizes the lines and styles, eX- hibits the models, and then the selec- tions are made by public opinion ex- pressed at the races at Auteuil and Longshamp. The complete results Of these races told in the Paris papers often omit the most important feature of the day-the birth of new fashion
 Once created, there is haste to make known the new fashion. and since it is no more feature of the royal courts, where once it reflected the personal de sire and will of the sovereigns. today the styles are made public by models at the race courses, on the streets, on the stage. and at social functions. and particularly at the theatres where the dress of the ultra social set is playing an increasing role.
 The influence of the costumes in cer- tain operas and plays has been felt to a considerable degree. Literature has also been great inspiration. as shown by Louis Maigrons book, "Romantisme ct la Mode. which says "romanticism creeps from books into daily life through social diversions" The mas querade thus makes some pretensions of reconstructing fashions history by ap- peallhg to old engrayings for aid in costumes. There are many other in- f1uences to which the trend of fashion may lay claim; military uniforms, for elgn costumes, sports. and religious be- liefs. Fashion does not limit its field to dress alone; 1t affects art, architecture literature, furniture, travel, sports, hair dressing and even social custom and demeanor
 1t has affected many industries caus- ing great increase or decrease in the demand for and the selling prices of fur, plumes, jewelry, toys. artificial flowers, perfumery. false hair, rice DOW der and rouge, within a period of but few years It has created one indus try and done away with another by dis placing its products but at the same time it has impeded the new one bs demanding immediate results regardless Of the cost of installation of new ma ehlnery and new materials, thus tend ing toward inferior qualities which are not durable
 Despite it's abuses and demands. il seems that we cannot do without fash ion; we follow it willingly, most of us welcoming its changes. Obviously we cannot do away with it: that was at. tempted by religious, royal and civil laws years ago, and found of no prac- tlcal avail; so that we accept it for what it is worth.
 Fashion has become scientific study. and Is approaching an art. The appear ance or new style of garment is the visible sign that transformation is taking place in the intellect, customs, ana business of people; that rise of
 nations has been so indicated, making lashlon a subject of ethnoloeie inter. est. It has also beeh remarked that where the same style of clothing has been used for centuries, as among bar- parlous peoples, civilization remains practically stationary, but on the other hand in Europe one sees evidences of great comfort and rapid progess in the 'esolution or fashion, marking a state or high civilization
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-03-27
Pledger-Johnson

Lyerly, Ga, March 26.-tSpecial.) Miss Ruth Johnson and Mir. Lonnie Pledger of Trion were married Wednesday night at the home of the bride, the Rev. H. l.. Hendricks of Summerville officiating. They will make their future home in Trion, where MT. Pledger is employed.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-03-27
HUNTSVILLE

Huntsville, March 26.-(Special.) )-Ex- Gov. R. B. Glenn of North Carolina de- livered an address on the liquor traffic in the presence of large audience at the First Presbyterian church last night. Governor Glenn said that the Rev. Brooks Lawrence, head of the anti-saloon league, of this state, had received a letter, in which he was given warning that every effort will be made at the next election to elect a wet legislature The anti-saloon league, he said, is financially strapped and can make the fight in Alabama only on the prayers of the good women and the penny contributions of the men, He predicted that the whole United States would be as dry as Russia in 10 years
 Ben Maddox and Vinie Sanders, young men of Dallas village, have been arrested and lodged in jail on charges of burglary and grand larceny. They are accused of robbing the store of John Reynolds in Dallas a few nights ago and stealing several articles of stock. Most of the stolen goods was recovered.
 The second season of the Huntsville Golf club began this afternoon with a nine-hole handicap tournament in which majority of the GO members played
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-03-27

10 create gold pool of s1OO,OO GOO with "hlch to relieve the pressing embarra ss- ments of New York city and notwith- standing a. speedy organization of the pool. nevertheless, the city was compelled to pay large amount of money in order to secure the drafts with which it's foreign oDligations on current account could be met But for this pool the city. would nave been compelled to face protest of it's notes.
 Then within week or two it was dis covered that the quotations for bills of exchange were so high and the bills them serves We're so scarce as to make it i'm practicable for American merchants who owed on current account in England and Europe to secure these bills so that the national banks of the United States in voluntary and in unanimous cooperation provided gold pool of $100,00OO0O whose effect was speedily seen in the lowering Of the rates of exchange.
 Now, IS bankers say, the shoe is on the other foot. In fact, some of the gold which was sent to Canada in the early fail or last year is coming back, refecting thereby the very low rate of exchange. Anybody who has debts to pay in Eng land or in Europe now can get exchange in plenty, but the fact is that there are practically no debts on current account against the United States in Europe We have paid all the obligations of this kind and we are importing comparatively noth- ing
 One of the Complications
 One of the complications which turk in this unparalleled situation is due to the fact that our new tariff law is substan- t1ally dead. Imports are small, relatively speaking, and a considerable portion of the custom house receipts, represent pay ment of tariff dues upon goods which are taken out of bond. The tariff is ineffec- tive because imports have so greatly fallen away. No one can tell what relation the tariff will bear to the situation when nor nal conditions are restored. Some of the authorities are inclined to think that, leav- ing out the question of protection, it will be found essential when Congress meets next winter to modify or amend some of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-03-27

HEAR GOV. GLENN. ORPHEUM,
 SUNDAY
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
Smuggling
In Drugs !?

Habit-forming drugs are being
struggled into the Sound cities,
and cached, in direct violation of
the federal anti-narcotic law, in
the opinion of internal revenue
officials, who have begun figor-
Gus investigation, following the
death Friday night at the city
hospital in Seattle of ]. II. Dur
yea, coal passer on the U. s. S.
Charleston, of the Bremerton
navy yard, who was picked up on
Second ave. in a dazed condition.
On Duryea were found drugs
totaling in value 500. They in
cluded 600 morphine tablets, lis
cocaine tablets, and two cartons
of yen-hee, powerful derivative of
opium.
The federal authorities will
make every endeavor to trace the
drug supply to its source.
Since the anti-narcotic law be-
came effective, March 1, several
attempts have been made to dis
pense quantities of drugs in Taco
ma. but the work has been car
ried on with the utmost caution.
the perpetrators fearing the stern
hand of Uncle Sam.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
OUEVLI MAY LAND
HOSPITAL POSITION

he would not be a candidate for
the position II any jealousy or
ill-feeling on the part of fellow
practitioners should develop.
He said also that he realized
fully the advantages of prevent
ing such professional feeling by
the Importation of an outside
man, If a satisfactory one could
be found, and would not be a
rival to such a man.
However, Chairman Slayden
said he was In favor of a local
man for the position. He prob
ably will stick to this position
despite any urging from the local
medical association.
DR.. Quevli,, at the recent ma
tional gathering Of tuberculosis
specialists at Seattle, was acclaim
ed as one of the country's real
experts, and was elected unanl-
mously to a position on the execu-
tive board.
Chairman Slayden gave an as
surance that political appoint
ment would not be made.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
CALLS MILLS DOWN

The council today was arguing
and hearing remonstrances over
paving improvement. The ses-
sion was growing weary, and
Commissioner A. U. Mills slipped
off to a corner, filled his pipe and
settled down for a brief smoke,
when an old man in the audience
chamber sidled over to him.
Say, Mister Commissioner, :"
wheezed the old man, in a tone
loud enough to be heard all over
the room, You've fought for an
ordinance prohibiting smoking on
street cars and jitney buses,
haven't your"
why, yes, certainly" replied
the commissioner, between puffs
on his old black pipe.
We'll, Mister Commissioner,
there's a lot of women in this
council chamber, and I don't
think you have any more right
to smoke here than I have on 4
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

DR.. Christen Quevli, one of the
foremost authorities in the world
on tuberculosis, doomed today as
the most probable head of the
Pierce county sanitarium, to sue
coed DR.. Kirkwood, who resign
ed recently, following ugly
charges of mismanagement and
personal misconduct.
With DR.. G.. Stuart Wilson and
DR.. Quevli the two chief appli-
cants for the position, the ad-
vantage seemed to lie with the
latter.
He held conference today
with Chairman Slayden and Com
missioner Reed, offering to take
the headship of the institution for
$3.50 a month. Under this ar
rangement, he was to devote
three or four hours a day to the
active management and personal
care of the patients, and to sup
ply an inferno at his own ex-
pense.
He made it plain, however, that
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

sweeping like scythe, first de-
scended on the Tennenbaum
home, destroying four of its
women and children, and then, as
though guided by the Unseen
Hand, picked its way to the Cohen
home and there snuffed out the
lives of the mother and four OF
her little ones?
Shortly before the Tennen-
baum home was struck, the
guests, Mr.. and Mrs. Barrett, went
out to call on some friends in the
neighborhood. They missed
death by barely half an hour.
Neighbors and friends only
shrug their shoulders or say, III
was Gods will" when the men OF
the Cohen and Tennenbaum fami.
lies cry out in their anguish
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
CITY TO SELL
LAND ANYWAY

Declaring that the Metropolis
tan park board had no authority
or no excuse for objeeting, the
city council today over-ruled a re-
monstrance by that board to the
proposed sale OF a three and one
half acre tract near snanawav,
and ordered the land sold.
A chicken rancher near Spana-
way, wants the land, to increase
HIS ranch. II Ii east OF the Pa-
cific avenue paved road, and en-
tirely disconnected from the city's
park property near the lake. The
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
TO SET NEW
R. R. RECORD

On Thursday of this week Ia
coma will experience new rec
ord in railroading.
During five hours and 40 min
utes on that day, a special train,
fully equipped, will roll through
Tacoma every 10 minutes. Thir-
ty-four Shriner specials, carrying
the lodge members from Seattle
to San Francisco, will pass
through this city at the rate of
once every 10 minutes.
Each train will be equipped
with sleepers, diners, and every
regulation piece of equipment.
The "a trains will follow each
other in 10 minute order all the
way to the exposition city.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

e CINCINNATI, O.. July H.
Stranger than fiction was the
tragic fate of the Cohen and Ten
nenbaum families in the tornado
that devastated whole sections of
Cincinnati Wednesday night.
The Cohens lived at 572 West
Sixth st; the Tennenbaums at 643
West Eighth st.
Three city blocks separated
them.
Mrs. Esther Cohen and Israel
Tennenbaum were sister and
brother.
Visiting at the home of the
Tennenbaums were Mr.. and Mrs.
Meyer Barrett, Indianapolis,
brother-in-law and sister of Meyer
Tennenbaum.
Why was it that the storm,
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
FIND RANK BOOK

The police have in their pos
session a bundle of papers, includ-
ing a life insurance policy and q
bank book, found several days
ago at the 18th street dock. The
insurance is made out to Arthur
Carl and the bank book to G. A
Nelson.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
TAX HEARINGS COMING

Mayor Fawcett today appoint
ed Commissioners Mills, Atkins
and Woods to represent the city
of Tacoma on the county tax
equalization board. for 1915. The
board begins its sessions In Au-
gust.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

why were our families so pun
ished, while hundreds of other
families all. about us were unin-
jured?"
By another miracle, equally
strange, the men of the two fami
lies escaped with their lives.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

Israel and Meyer Tennebaum,
father and son, were sitting inAthe
kitchen of their home. The tor
nado swept them through the open
door into the back yard and there,
almost buried them, although un-i
injured, under a mass of dirt and
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
HOOD UNDER ARREST

Attempting to cash $50 check
on the firm of Mccormack Bros.
without having funds In the bank
l.. Hood, who claims to be an ad-
vertising man, was arrested by
the police Saturday night.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
ROB SPENCER HOME

Burglars entered the home of
Frank Spencer, 2549 jefferson
avenue, by prying open a rear
window, last night, and stole $50
in cash and suit of clothes.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

street car.
Mills blushed wildly, hastily
knocked the ashes from his pipe,
and pretended to busy himself
with the council work. The audi
ence applauded heartily.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

was found alive.
The area between the Cohen
and Tennenbaum homes suffered
great storm damage, but no lives
were lost in this section, except
in these two families.
1t will be weeks before Cincin-
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

natl fully RECEIVERS from the disas-
ter. Along the lines of railroads
entering the CITY from the west,
for several miles, practically every
telegraph pole is down and wires
are in a twisted mass.
In the west section of the city
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

Turrell Bros. beg to thank the
public for their mighty response to
their Shoe Sale Advertising that
appeared in The Times Friday
evening.
If you were in the store Satur-
day you'll understand how it was
if you did not receive proper atten-
ton.
This week-more salespeople-
better service-big shoe bargains.
See windows.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
. o . @ o o . y o . q o . . . q
@ FUNERALS &

@ FUNERALS &
o o o 3 q o o @ o o @ o o 8 % q
Irving c. Wise; from Buckley.
King company's parlors: Tuesday
at 2:30; interment in Tacoma
cemetery.
Charles Geiger; held this morn
ing at 8 o'clock from st. Leo's:
l.. M. Gaffney had charge of the
funeral.
James Tilton; this afternoon
at 3 o'clock from Buckley-King
companies; interment in Tacoma
cemetery.
Mrs. Korin j. Erickson; this
afternoon at 2:30 o'clock; from
Cassidy & Allen company's; in
terment in lakewood cemetery.
William Hooker; this afternoon
at 1 o'clock; from G.. c. Mellinger
company's.
Mrs. Dora Fetterle; tomorrow
afternoon at 2 o'clock; from l..
M. Gaffney company's; intermen!
In Tacoma cemetery.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

land will be sold at auction, and
is not worth more than $40 an
acre, II is said.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

everywhere, plate glass windows
are out, shattered by the force OF
the winds, and here and there the
ruins of a business house or resi-
dence.
The death of more than .
score of citizens and the injury OF
half hundred others stunned the
entire city.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12
DEATHS
y q q o q o q 90 u

w. A. Stewart, age So, died
yesterday at a local hospital. lie
is "a native of Tennessee, and ia
survived by a brother in Mem
phis. c. c. Mellinger has charge
of the body.
Michael O'Neil, age 6S, died
this morning at a-local hospital
His body was removed to G. G.
Mellinger company's.
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1915-07-12

slums, IN 1.-THE Dawn OF a To-
morrow" This is the latest Pick
ford release to be sent west. and
is said to be one OF the most
beautiful dramas ever brought to
Tacoma movie house.
The chronicle=news., 1915-01-12

Major Charles Townsend, w. }. Ken
ncdy and Capt Charles Swopc, bore
the proper returns to Indicate that
the four important witnesses had
been found and lad acknowledged
the demand that tEcy appear here to
testify.
The witnesses, two of whom are Of
ficcrs of the state militia who fig
ured conspicuously in the strike,
Stephen Shectz of Weld county, and
Lieut.. George KGoh of Montrosc. are
the only witnesses 40 far subpoenacd.
The subpoenaes isgucd for them did
not specify ans date other than they
We're to appear al once. They re-
spondcd Immediately.
The only reason we ordered these
subpocnacs issued was that VIC were
anxious to find these witnesses and
to be doubly certain that they would
be here" said Attorney Manly, one
of the attorneys for the prosecution
who has been assigned the job of
handling the .lerocnacs Tor the
prosecution.
I'VE will not issI:e any more sub
poenaes until We know when they
will be wanted. That is impossible
until the jury is obtained. Our wit
ncsscs are the list endorsed on the
information filed in the Pueblo coun-
ty district court last October, witt
twelve additional ones which were
endorsed on the information last No.
vember."
Attorney Manly declined to state
that William II. Gambling is in the
city Or even that he had seen him.
was learned that Gambling visited
the clerk of the courts office and for
few minutes was Il spectator in tho
court room.
Judge Burke intends to expedite
the examination of jurors, If not by
shortening the examinations. then
by lengthening the hours. lie called
night session for last night. He
made the announcement, in open
court yesterday when Attorney Ton
Devine stated that he had an import
ant business engagement for the ev-
ening and could not return. Judge
Burke respected the attorneys wish.
cs and withdrew his order for a
night session.
81 wish to serve notice on the at
torneys now, however, said Judge
Burge, that hereafter they must
hold themselves in readiness for a
night session every day. ! will hold
them frequently.