Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-11

| SAo AuTuelOWS. we naQ grown 8CCuS-
| toned to a line of featherbo on a reed
In our fiounces. but this arrangement
| seemed now formidable. We are safe
however. until September. anyway. For
| the latest idea in skirt widening applies
not to the hem. but to the hips. and IL
| accomplished, not by a machine OF
wire or reed. but by the skiliful placing
| Of a bit of haircloth.
-.
Do not conjure up visions, at this
dread name. Of the organ plaits and
godets. stiffened for their entire length
with heavy. almost impenetrable hair
cloth. weighing pounds and pounds. and
firing to the strongest. The new YER
sion is very innocent. light and frivo-
lous in comparison. This new name is
erin braid, and it is open in weave.
transparent and very flexible. 1t first
appeared some time ago as erin lace. to
be used as a neXt-to-invisible support
for high collars. Then it was adopted
for transparent hat brims, and then
tulle frills. Now the very latest use of
it is to hold thin skirt slightly out
from the hips, SO that the material
swings freely from the waist when the
wearer Is in motion. No one will OBJ
ject seriously to this.
v
due widening of the hem. until our
skirts became public nuisances as they
were in Marie Antotnette's nrst friV.
olous days Of Queenhood. when ladies'
hoops obstructed the traffic, caused
panics in theaters and made riding In
carriages almost impossible II there
was more than one woman for each
coach. If we have only to swing our
hips a bit like a peasant woman or
Highland piper. we can resign our
selves to that.
Afternoon and evening frocks are
the ones which are going to demand
the wearing Of two petticoats with
them. Afternoon gowns especially
circumference just now. Occasionally
the order Of flounces is reversed and
the widest one comes at the top and
the narrowest at the feet, while for
anything but ruf1ed skirts. the persist
ence of a somewhat narrower under
skirt is noticeable.
In general, however. these frocks
have an ample hem measurement OF
several yards. the narrowest about
three. while the widest run into six or
seven. For the evening taffeta skirts
doubled under at the foot over lace
petticoat of modest proportions. or
tulIe skirts with moderately narrow
underskirts of silk or satin. rival the
founces, which for afternoons may be
said to reign supreme.
xE
Morning dresses are still quite con-
servative. Many cloth tailor skirts
show a measurement Of little over two
yards. II more material Is used 1t Is
pretty apt to be plated into smaller
proportions. Taffeta and soft silk
street dresses are apt to have straight.
gathered skirts, trimmed horizontally
with bands, shaped tucks or narrow
frills in rows. Frocks Of chiffon and
crepe over taffeta have graduated
bands of silk tailor braid on a skirt
which is hardly over two and one-half
yards at the hem.
These straight lines for utility and
haring. founcing ones for frfvolity
show an extraordinary consideration
for appropriateness and comfort on
the part Of the designers. which almost
I leads US. to hope that the date is not faI
distant when dress may realize its true
aim. which has been defined as the
perfect applicability to the require
ments and station Of the wearer with
due regard to effectiveness Of appear
| ance." It must be confessed that Its
aim is fairly comprehensive. II this
states 1t fairly.
To return to petticoats for our after
noon garments. 1t has been stated that
there are usually two of them, a
! thicker one underneath for modesty
and thinner one on top for extrava-
gance, or for effectiveness, whichever
! you may like to call 1t. The under one
may easily be of cotton material. al
though it is apt to be Of taffeta. soft