Evening star., 1915-05-23

a CURIOUS study for those inter-
IN ested in the history of cos
N\ tune is the widespread results
6 & of an accidental cause in the
national adoption Of some detail Of fash
ion. A great king, for example. develops
scalp trouble and loses his hair, so every
gentleman of his day shaves his own
locks and adopts periwig to be in the
movement.
A modern emperor has a defective
left hand and wears a bracelet to aid
him in using table implements, and
every young officer in his empire with
any pretensions of smartness promptly
puts a bracelet on his own left arm. A
great officer loses an arm. and the one
sleeved jacket is assumed as the dis
tinguishins mark OF a hussar forever
after.
Perhaps if we knew the real inside
history of every radical change in the
mode we should find many queer rea-
sons and quaint stories. The immense
vogue of silk this season is said by the
cornoscenti to be due to the fact that
war has closed the wooden mills OF
northern France, while the more south
Arly SILK factories are sun tui HihS 'Ns
materials. and the production of the
Italian mills is uninterrupted
Whatever the reason. the fact is un-
disputed and indisputa hle-silk is trl,
umphant. Though for a time II seemed
as il the French supply were threat
ened the makers have raliied lneit
forces and huge shipments are neins
exported to the American markers.
Domestic silks are so much improved OF
late wears that our choice is truly
wide one.
To start in pedagoEic fashion. from
the general and proceed to the par.i9,-
ular, il may be said that the crisper Sill
ken fabrics are in the lead and that the
patterned is trying hard to supersede
the plain. All the designs and color
ings are discreet The Poiret colors
and Martini patterns are now only
found in the occasional lining of neu-
tral-colored topcoat Black and white
combinations are simply legion. ana
stripes have imposed themselves upon
everything. In these two particulars,
indeed. it behooves the woman VINO
likes to be a bit exclusive in her dress
to he rather careful
Along with the crispy fabrics there is
very noticeable revival of Erenadlne
and. above all. of voile. of which more
anon. Fabrics. of course. are the found
alton Of dress. The question of which
comes first-the fabric or the fashion
reminds one of that other hoary-headed
Interrogation. Which came first. the
hen or the egg This season it seems
as IL the fabrics have It, and as there
lives not the woman who does not
fancy herself in silk, let us rejoice in
our blessings and buy a silk gown.
TafYeta undoubtedly leads. so far.
among the weaves. whether patterned
or plain. cry charming are the new
tafYetas with small self colored figures.
a stripe. spot or a small flower
When the small flower in several pastel
colors appears upon a plain ground.
like an old brocade. II seems made for
flowing skirted. tight-bodiced. elbow
sleeved gown, like the ones in which
10 the gros de londres. with it's slightly
cutting bread and butter. For street
wear. the hair-line stripe of white on
a dark blue or black ground Is very
satisfactory. For evening the new pale
shades are ravishing even to read about
primrose pink. buttercup yellow. or
child lavender-even the names are ire
sistible.
10 the gros de I-ondres. with its slightly
ribbed surface, and It's suggestion OF
old fashioned richness of material. 1t
10 flexible and gathers well. but there
10 a firmness about II which recalls the
silk that would stand alone
The new pussy willow ta1etas are SO
soft and supple that one can really
hardly tell them from silk finished fou-
lards This admirable fabric comes in
an endless variety Of design. Harle-
quin diamonds are pretty and newer
than the checkerboard effects which
have grown so big and aggressive as to
be better used nowadays for Innings.
There are Dresden flowers for the
youthful, and revival Of polka dots Of all
sizes.
Newest of all are the small all-over
conventional designs, like the diaper
patterns seen In ancient Persian minia-
lures and apparently always joy to
the oriental artist.
Another seryiceable weave, now
grown more beautiful, is surah. while
foulard is shown in dark, rich, flow
cry patterns. like ancient brocade as
different as possible from the niggling
designs that were formerly used for
this material Both of these silks are
cool. light and not easily crushed. quail
ities which recommend them for daily
wear in summer.
The newest thing In one-piece frocks
10 the coat-backed gown, which is ideal
for "communing." for the necessary
shopping expeditions. or for journey.
Nothing seems nicer for these trim
looking frocks than silk serge though
a similar material called silk khaki by
the makers ts perhaps even better. In
the silent colors' of Rodier these ma
terials are simply Incompatible for
i. ~ -ooo~o (.