davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1915-10-27
Braids in Vogue.

Although black braids are most
prominent, those to match the color Of
the dress are to be found in various
widths and shades Soutache is used
in straight rows and braided patterns.
Very narrow gold or silver braid is
used as an edge to other braid. either
black or colored. put on in a braided
pattern or in several rows. Flat bind
ing braids not over two-thirds of an
inch wide are used for binding and
piping.
Certain parts of a dress or jacket are
braid trimmed. For instance, collar.
pockets and cuffs rather than the lower
and front edges. Soutached pockets
and collar are very smart. or soutache
pockets alone may form the entire
trimming of a separate skirt. What is
called soutache embroidery is the In
terweaving of soutache braid and en-
broidery stitches of heavy silk.
Both net and chiffon bands and
founces are soutached in color to
match, or in black. These are used as
fiat trimming. Even cloth dresses
are thus trimmed, and many evening
and afternoon dancing frocks are large
ly trimmed with SOutache. Broadcloth.
soutache, chiffon and fur forms smart
combination when rightly combined in
croSSWiSe effects.
appear on the buttons in place of but
tonholes. and as an ornament as well.
Seutaching is also mingled with en-
broidery. done with Angora or zephyr,
this usually appearing on collar, cuffs
and belt.
Evening star., 1915-10-27
BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE.


Special Correspondence Of The Star.
NEW YORK, October EFF each
French designer gives the American
buyers a gown with dropped shoul-
der, extending over that. part of the
arm which is intended to be covered
by the sleeve, and another gown which
has a small regulation armhole sup
porting long. tight sleeve, which must
be chosen? It's a nice question.
The makers Of clothes were not quite
certain, evidently, exactly what fash
ion or silhouette they wanted to es-
tablish, or, maybe, they were hesitant
for good reasons about establishing g
Just one and letting the others slide.
The American woman is confused to-
day over the result. No sooner does
she go about copying the sartorial
tricks of her immediate ancestors in
the female line than she. is confronted
with the latest costume showing the
fashions of the men of 1892. To clear
up this confusion it is well to be ad-
vised that one style is as fashionable
as the other. Wear whichever one
suits your fancy or your figure.
Take the frock sent over by Jenny.
intended as dance frock, with un-
usually wide. full skirt of taffeta. quite
plain. and a bodice of silver lace which
is high at the shoulder line in the
back. has dropped shoulders and huge,
short puffs for sleeves.
Contrast it with the gown given yes
terday by Callot, made with postillion
shoulder cape, long sleeves, high
standing collar. and you will breathe
easier about choosing the autumn
wardrobe. for you will come to the
conclusion that you can wear anything
you-please. So You can-within limits.
This Jenny gown is quite new-and
is being copied in different fabrics and
colors. In black chiffon velvet and
blaS net studded with dark blue and
whNe crystals, il serves for an older
woman; in geraniun red with bodice
of gold lace and white tulle pufrs for
sleeves, il serves for the type of young
woman who can afford to be very dar-
Each designer has featured sleeves
Evening star., 1915-10-27
Again the Jumper Blouse.

an office likes an apron for the same
purpose. l knew very famous woman
editor who always wore a black silk
apron OF dainty cut, edged with fine
black lace, and with dainty pockets
The housewife likes an apron that
will catch the spots incidental to
housekeeping or gardening and that
can be tubbed and still remain pretty
in color or form. Then. too. it helps
her to have an apron with pockets of
sufficient size to carry her keys. note
book and pencil and handkerchief, and
perhaps purse. for most housewives in
the course of mornings work have
to pay out small change to tradespeo-
pie and the like.
But Of all aprons made for Christ
mas gifts the most attractive is the
fancy-work apron. with its deep pock-
cts, into which the woman of leisure
can tuck her knitting and embroidery
or dainty sewing. This apron must al
ways be fancy, with lace or silk ruffies.
embroidery. ribbon bows and decora
tive device that can be added by the
woman who makes It.
Color is invariably used. and wash
Evening star., 1915-10-27
~ YTE -'
hE ECHEN
- a FL AZ
Ealibut a la Poulette.

Take two pounds OF halibut. and ar
range in small steaks. freeing from
skin and bone: then cut into narrow
strips and season with salt, pepper and
lemon juice. Cut two onions in slices
and lay on the fillets, then set away for
half an hour. At the end of this time
have ready one-third cup Of oil. Dip
the steaks n this, roll, skewer into
shape and dredge with flour. Arrange
in a creased casserole or baking dish
and bake twenty minutes in a moder-
ate oven. Serve with white sauce and
two hard boiled eggs sliced for gar
niSh.
Skewered Smelts.
Smelts skewered in rings (using a
wooden toothpick to hold heads and
tails together), dipped in milk, well
Toured and fried in deep fat, make an
attractive fish course. The skewers
can be removed before serving. as the
fish will usually keep their shape.
Garnsh the plate on which the fish
Evening star., 1915-10-27
>..::>WOn\dNS <> W.
SVGWpOlt q

silks are excellent for making up such
aprons. 1t is also a good thing to
choose colors that will become the
woman to whom the apron is to be
given. Blue suits blue-eyed or black
haired woman; pink or mauve. a wom-
an with pink cheeks or a young girl.
and red flowers on gray ground look
pretty on older woman.
Cretonne and dimity make up pref
tily into aprons, but fowered or striped
silks are most attractive, with rutties
of plain colored silk or of chiffon on
the edges and pockets. In any case
make the apron one that will hold
sufficient amount of fancy work and
that will wear we'll
To obtain this pattern, which comes
in sizes "a. 2S and 80 waist measure,
send 10 cents in coin or stamps to
Lucille Gordon, care of The Evening
Star Be sure to state number and
size of pattern wanted and give your
name and address.
Evening star., 1915-10-27

When washing oilcloth tablespoon
full of painters size added to a pailful
of water will give a glossy surface
and make it wear much better than
when washed in the ordinary way.
Evening star., 1915-10-27

are served with cresS and slices of lem
on rolled in finely minced parsley. II
the smeltS are to furnish the main part
OF the meal pile them in the center Of a
not platter and surround with a border
of mashed potato, or mound the potato
and encircle with the fish for a border
Fish Souhae.
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a
saucepan and melt without browning.
Add one tablespoonful of -four. stir
until blended, then pour in one cup of
warm milk. When thickened and
smooth add the yolk of one egg, one
cup of any good prepared fish, a table
spoonful of cream and a tiny bit of
havor1ng essence and pepper to season.
MIX carefully and well. fold in the
white of one egg beaten stiff and
dry. then fill ramekins or paper cases
three quarters full. Brown in a quick
oven and serve very hot. Chopped
parsley may be added if desired.
Norwegian Bread.
For those who like barley Norwegian
bread should be nearly as agreeable
as ordinary brown bread or even more
palatable. We who appreciate brown
bread should be nearly as agreeable as
Norwegian cousin: One pint barley
meal, one-half pint aham -four, one
half pint flour, one teaspoonful of salt.
four teaSpoonfuls of baking powder,
one pint milk, bake in a moderate oven
forty minutes.
Custard Soufle.
In place of the conventional baked
custard, try custard souffle for des-
sert, made after this recipe: Into a
double boiler put two tab1espoonfuls
of butter, and, when it melts. add two
ia tablespoonfuls of -four. When blended,
pour in a cup of hot milk. Cook the
mixture. stirring pretty constantly. till
it is thick and smooth. Then pour in
the yolks of two eggs, beaten hard
with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Re-
move from the fire and let the custard
cool Then add the whites of eggs
beaten stiff. and pour into buttered
baking dish. Bake for twenty minu-
utes in moderately hot oven. Serve
either with crushed fruit, jelly or some
frothy sauce.
Evening star., 1915-10-27
TODAY'S HOUSEHOLD
AFFAIRS.
BY MARY LEE.

recipe for chocolate sirup to be
used in drinks is as follows:
Mix eight ounces of good cocoa with
sufficient hot water (not boiling) to
make a stifr paste. Then thin the
paste with more hot water. Do not
use too much water the first time in
the hope that this will make a thin
paste. If you do the mixture will be
lumpy. The result will be the same
as when flour is mixed with too much
water at first. Next make a sirup with
water and sugar in equal proportions.
Rock candy makes much richer sirup
than ordinary sugar and Is more deli
cate in flavor. Six pounds Of the sirup
to eight ounces of cocoa is the right
proportion. To every pint of water
allow one pound of sugar. Thus. to
sweeten eight ounces Of cocoa three
pints of water and three pounds of
sugar will be necessary. Put the sirup
and cocoa paste into a vessel Set on
the fire and bring to a boil. Cook for
three minutes; then the sirup is ready
for use. 1t can be used not only as a
drink, but also as a sauce for ice cream.
Homemade Soda.
A homemade soda water is sure to be
enjoyed Boil together two pounds gran
ulated sugar. three pints Of hot water
and two ounces of tartaric acid for five
Evening star., 1915-10-27
Household Hints.

To clean white enameled furniture
remove all dirty marks with a flannel
dipped in methyated spirit. Then wash
at once with tepid water to which has
been added a little fine oatmeal. Never
use soap or soda
Evening star., 1915-10-27

| this season. The only shape that has
| oeen omitted from the vast variety Of
fered is the elbow one. These single
puffed sleeves are the features of the
Jenny dance frock, because they show
| that the 1S40 style, which was revived
| In the early nineties, is again here. 1t
! gives startlingly different line to our
! figures and is not generally liked.
There is no doubt that the dropped
| shoulder line is accepted 1t rounds
| the back, takes away from it any
semblance of military breadth and
! straightness, and it is rather remark
! able that it should return to fashion
at time when it is no longer con-
sidered in good form to let the shoul-
| ders fall.
The les-o'-mutton sleeves. also the
| full one usually shown as the bishop
have come in again, especially on one
piece frocks. On jackets the long,
small sleeve rules. The bell shape
which was introduced by Mrs. Vernon
has evidently played itself out, al
! though the gowns we are approaching,
which were worn in the middle of the
nineteenth century. had exaggerated
from the wrists and edged with fur
| 1t Is sleeve that has never failed in
favor. but for some reason it was not
| held long in fashion after it's recent
refncarnation. Things that are quick
ly featured on the stage are quickly
| dropped.
The form Of leg-o'-mutton which has
been generally adopted has no exag-
| gerated fullness. 1t hangs away from
| the elbow and is held in at the top by
some form of cap, and at the wrist by
a deep. tight. ornamental cuff that ex-
tends half way to the elbow
Again the Jumper Blouse.
There is no indication that the Jump
er blouse will be frowned upon this
autumn. 1t comes out under another
name and Is really quite in keeping
| with the medieval armor effect that is
being produced in SO many ways on the
| newly made frocks.
F.! 1t calls for long sleeves OF a differing
| fabric from the skirt and always such
/ sleeves present a delightful opportun-
| ity for skillful economy
Evening star., 1915-10-27

To insure kerosene lamps giving a
clear and bright light boil the interior
parts of the lamp in vinegar and soda
at least once in two weeks.
Evening star., 1915-10-27

Gilt will appear on millinery.
Evening star., 1915-10-27
AMERICAN FASHIONS.

Experience has taught every woman
that the useful Christmas gift Is more
appreciated than the useless one. for
the reason that the first is constant
reminder of the affection of its giver
ami makes life pleasanter to its re-
cipient. This apron pattern calls for
both plain and fancy aprons, and aprons
are forever useful and nearly always
becoming If daintily made. They also
serve the purpose Of prolonging the
Evening star., 1915-10-27

Waists are being made nowadays of
a lovely changeable silk in the most
exquisite shades of orchid, peach, sun
set and blue.
Evening star., 1915-03-19
Parkway Proceedings.

An interesting move has been made
toward acquiring the land necessary
for the connecting parkway between
Potomac and Rock Creek parks, in
the request of the War Department
that the Department of Justice ex-
pedite legal proceedings TO dispossess
the present occupants of the public
reservation on the east bank of
Rock creek. This is not the first
time that the United States has un-
dertaken to clear its land of private
occupation, the United States mar
shall having twelve years ago pro-
ceeded under special act of Con-
gress to attempt custer, but being
checked by temporary restraining
order which apparently has had a
permanent effect. Again in 1910 an
endeavor was made to clear the land,
without result, and now once more
the United States is to try to regain
possession of a tract that, according
|, to the War Department, has been
occupied for years by private inter
Evening star., 1915-03-19

steady thing. 1t is in politics the
year round. 1t never relaxes its
watchfulness. Its own interests are
constantly kept in view. Its repre-
sentatives are always on the job.
Tiger, tiger, burning bright, in the
watches of both day and night.
Tammany's opponents, on the
other hand. are too much like mob
eager enough. and with good
cause, but unorganized, and for that
reason too often ineffective. They
rush together like "a militant clti-
zenry," but without trained file lead
ers, or plan of battle. They face
veterans who know how to fight, and
are prepared.
The great value OF a permanent or
eanization has been borne in on the
republican national leaders, and
some OF the most prominent OF them
have taken steps to effect one. not in
imitation of Tammany's, but for
keeping alive among the rank and
file OF the party interest i'll party
matters between campaigns. Politi-
cal literature is to be distributed, and
changes in issues and the introduc-
ton Of new issues promptly dis
cussed The Republican Publicity
Association" charges itself with the
task OF keeping the torch alight
where heretofore the glim has been
doused Immediately after an election.
1t has no purpose to boom anybody
for office, but only to provide lead
ers after they have secured nom
nations with material for campaign
purposes against the common enemy
Evening star., 1915-03-19
PARTY ORGANIZATIONS.

In addressing party friends in New
York last night, former Senator Bur
ton paid tribute to political organ
;zations. He said nothing new, it is
true, but what he did say comes in
pat enough now. Almost on the eve.
as both parties are, of a great con-
test for control of the country, every
word OF encouragement from leading
sources for systematic party work
has much value Mr.. Burton speaks
as one who has performed such
work, and prohted by the work Of
o,hcrs-as a practical man, and not
as theorist.
In the irreverent lingo of politics,
an organization is called machine,
and as such derided and denounced.
Political machines, it is often assert
ed. are the curse of the country
Nearly all the ills of government are
ascribed to them, and the men in
charge tagged as bosses.
Tammany is held up to censure
as an awful example, and the boss
of Tammany as the arch-boss. Tam
many, it must be admitted, is pretty
bad. But good lesson may be
learned from Tammany. Politics is
no htful matter with the Tiger, bu,
Evening star., 1915-03-19
Declaration of Policy.

We are all remalnin' neutral down
TO Pohick on the Crick.
We don't take any sides when ar
guments is flynn thick.
Bill Boyer was Frenchman 'cordin'
to his family tree
An Tony Miller's folks was once as
German as could be.
The grocer is Italian an the black
smith is a Swede
An we've all been friends together,
helpful in the hour OF need.
Sometimes we mention ancestry an
bygone names an dates,
But even then we always talk an
think United States.
We're waitin' an we're watchin' fur
the time to come at last
When the glory OF the future dims
the sorrow OF the past.
We try to do our duty as we see it
day by day
An find no fault with those whose
duty lies another way.
When differences rise about a
mortgage or a lease,
We take 'em to O'Brien. He's a
justice of the peace.
We've all been raised as friends an
that's the way we're goin' to stick
We are jes' remainin' neutral down
to Pohick on the Crick.
Evening star., 1915-03-19
Washington's Vital Concern.

Senator Pomerene struck the key
note of community interest and con-
Germ in his speech before the Board
of Trade last night. with the fiscal
relation OF capital and nation as his
text. His words were pointed. SYM
pathetic and inspiring. Not enough
of orr legislators appreciate SO clearly
as Senator Pomerene the combine i
legal, equitable and sentimental
foundations of the nations obligation
toward the nations city. an obli2a-
tion not exclusively or primarily that
OF untaxed property owner, and not
born recently or III 1878. but dating
from the very creation of the city.
The national obligation OF proper
tionate contribution toward the
maintenance and development OF the
capital is equitable in its nature, CD
based primarily on the cirou1n-
stances of the capitals creation,
which imposed upon the nation not
only the necessity of fulfilling an i'm
piled pledge. but the obligation and
responsibility which without words
are coupled inseparably with exelu-
sive and unlimited power and con-
troll; and (2) it is based secondarlly
on present and continuous condi-
tions enforcing both the original
and renewed obligation upon the
nation as the untaxed owner of a
large fraction of Washington's real
estate and OF over 5000 acres of the
unplatted portion OF the federal dis
trict. This obligation is as Just and
as binding today as it was at the be-
ginning OF the century National
recognition OF this obligation is crys-
tallized in the organic act of 1873.
Maintenance intact OF the organic
act is not only thus point OF honor
with the nation, but is strongly urged
by the dictates OF national pride.
During the period when the national
obligation. tardily recognized in 1873,
was neglected, the capital was ma
tional shame, by-word and re-
proach. Since the nation has re-
turned even half way to its original
obligation the capital has become an
object of national affection, in whose
attractiveness and in whose welfare
the whole American people take
PRIDE
Elsewhere in today's issue is a
summary of some of the facts and
arguments concerning the relation
OF nation and capital which have
been printed from time to time as
editorial correspondence of The Star.
This article breathes the same spirit
as that OF this section of Senator
Pomerene's speech and gives to his
conclusions on that subject an em-
phatic and vigorous amen"
Evening star., 1915-03-19
Mr., Clark's Vacation.

Mr.. Clark, freed from care for 4
season. will soon be among his old
nelghbors in Missouri. He ought to
be, and probably IS. in a comtorta-
bic frame OF mind. He held the
scales level as Speaker during the
session OF Congress, saved the freSl-
dent from defeat in House caucus
on the ship bill, and saw his pred1e-
ton verified as to what the session S
record would be. His view before
the session began was that no I'M
portant legislation outside the
routine would be enacted. None
was. An attempt to go beyond the
routine was made, but failed, and
carried down with it two of the reg
ular supply bills.
But, although "iar from the mad
ding crowds ignoble strife, Mr..
Clark will not be out of hearing, and
some of the sounds issuing from the
conflict may interest him. Some will
bear his name.
Notwithstanding the fact that he
has put himself definitely on record
several times as Wilson man-ln
the sense that Mr. Wilson will be
the logic OF next years democratic
situation-Mr. Clark is still the hope
of those democrats who think that
Mr.. Wilson could be turned down
for denomination without the step
costing the party the election. Mr..
Bryan is OF course out of the ques-
ton. as is Mr.. Marshall. Both are
members OF the administration Mr.
Underwood does not figure in the
calculation.
But Mr.. Clark does. As the anti
Wilson democrats see the matter, he
still has all the popularity he had at
Baltimore three years ago, plus the
admiration always aroused by good
loser. He has carried himself so well
in defeat the list of his friends has
been materially heightened.
Asked to reply to Mr.. Clark's ar
gument, that refusal to renominate
Mr.. Wilson would be a confession
by the party of failure and make its
nomination next year worthless,
these men are vague. They contend
that Mr.. Wilson has not wholly alb
sorbed the party, and could be sep
arated from its leadership without
sure defeat for it; that under Mr..
Clark's leadership it would have a
chance, and that the chance should
be taken. OF course they hold that
under Mr.. Wilson's leadership next
year the party will go under.
Mr.. Clark, in optimistic mood, sees
good times coming; and if they ar
rive, and bide a bit-at least until
next nomination day-this demand
for him will probably lose some OF
its insistence. For good times, even
if not the direct result of Mr. Viii
sons policies, will cover a multitude
of what are now considered and
called his mistakes.
Evening star., 1915-03-19

ests without warrant. The case
should certainly be settled definitely.
If the present occupants have
title to the land they should
be compensated under condem-
nation proceedings. If on the other
hand they are merely squatters
they should be ousted, although the
proceedings to effect this carry to
the Supreme Court. Assuredly this
case should not serve as blockade
of the park-connecting project.
Evening star., 1915-03-19
An Advocate of Variety.

What makes you think that gov,
ernment ownership would solve oul
economic difficulties
4 never said it would solve them,
replied Senator Sorghum But ii
might relieve the monotony OF dis.
cussion by creating some new ones
Evening star., 1915-03-19
Illegal Nets in the River.

During recent years considerable
trouble has been caused by fisher
men in the lower Potomac who have
persisted i'll extending their nets SO
Tar out INTO the river as not merely
to interfere with navigation. but to
prevent the passage of the shad and
herring to the fresh water spawning
grounds. In consequence of this IL
legal enterprise the fish supply has
been noticeably diminishing, and last
year 1t was announced that special
effort would be made this season by
the authorities to prevent this prac-
tioe. 1t appears. however, that in
spite of the regulations issued by the
War Department.. nets are being car
r1ed out farther into the stream near
the mouth of the river than ever be-
fore. \ steamer of the engineer
service is kept busy in Chesapeake
bay and its tributaries to guard
against violations, but it has to cover
so much territory that the fishermen
of one section are able to plant their
nets with impunity while the vessel
is patrolling another region. The War
Department should increase the pa
troll force. The destruction of the IL
legal nets and the prosecution of
their owners should be the deter
mined aim OF the federal authorities,
so destructive to fish life and SO fla
grantly in defiance of the govern
ment.
Evening star., 1915-03-19
No Militancy.

Have you any militant sufragists
in Crimson Gulch?"
Nary" replied Bronco Bob. when
the school teacher dropped a hint as
how she'd like to vote we'd have
been glad OF chance to shoot up
anybody that 'ud interfere with her.
But by common consent we turned
the polls over to her an all stayed
away SOS there wouldn't be any
chance of her bein' embarrassed"