davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

HE new jewelry which is being
shown by American manufac-
turers to retailers for the
fall and winter trade Is char
acterized by diminutive designs.
This is true Of all classes OF jewelry.
from the cheapest to that set with the
c~os,liest II precious tones The large
designs in vogue during the reign OF
the tight skirt are not to be used for
general wear. but must be reserved
for costumes especially adapted to
them in type as well as color.
This attempt To adapt jewelry to
the type of costume with which II is
10 be worn as well as have II match
or blend in color l. another novelty
Of the season. Heretofore, IL n is
10 believe the manufacturers and re-
tailers. jewelry has been designed,
manufactured and sold to customers
regardless of their age or condition
or how it wa to be worn.
Did you ever ask a customer II shc
intended Ia wear the jewelry she was
buying in the morning or the evening:
IN the house or on the street, a
Fifth avenue Jeweller was asked.
Certainly not he replied. "All We
aim at is to make a sale. IL Is 'ne
customers privilege to wear the jew
elry when she pleases."
Yet this jeweller admitted that a
large part of his trade was with per-
sons who he was sure did not know
when most of the jewelry they bought
Of him could properly be worn. About
the only advice given in this establish
ment has heretofore been about we'd
ding and engagement rings. A maj
asking for a wedding ring is showr
. plain gold ring and advised whether
a light weight or a heavy weight RIM
is the fashion. II he asks for an en-
gagement ring he is informed as t.
the prevailing fashion and also tol'
the stones suited to the birth months
Now all If this is to be changed
Retail jewellers as we'll as the manu-
~facturers OF jewelry appear to hav'
walked up and suddenly come to
realization II the fact that appro
priateness in jewelry something
more than harmony in color. In tn
future a salesman is to do somethinl
more for a customer than offer a ira
Of the tewelry asked for and watc
her fingers.
He is to make suggestions, explana
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

tons. which designs are suited To-
street wear, which go best with silk.
wool or cotton. He is also to find out
II the purchaser intends the jewclry
for personal use or for another person.
II for personal wear he is to give her
the benefit Of his knowledge Of APP
propriateness. Is 1t too young or too
old for her? Is the color or design
fitted 20 bring out her defects or her
good points? How does II go with
her eye and hair? These are points
to be considered.
In other words the jewelry sales
man is to become an intelligent dis
penscr of his wares. He is to do for
jewelry Just what milliners have been
doing for ats and bonncts.
Just why jewellers have been So
slow in attempting to train their sales
! people and through them educate the
public in the appropriateness Of jew
elry 1t would be hard to say The first
notable attempt in America to break
away from the hclter SHELTER method
of manufacturing and selling jewelry
, seems TO have been made some four
wears ago when a Fifth avenue jeweller
exhibited in his Shop window a r
in which various precious stones were
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

The industry has undergone complete
ira nsformation in the last fifteen
wears. The great oil mills arc II m
the most modern methods with the
latest improved machinery. The pro-
duction Of olives last year amounted 10
3,S35,Sl6 500 pounds and of olive on
455. 5S4. 900 pounds. This crop was
produced on an area Of 3,5l6.5l1
acres. The eight .Andaluslan provinces,
with Seville and Cordova leading, i'ro-
duced 6l.39 per cent. of the nation :
entire olive oil output.
A seventh of the worlds output OF
wine is produced in Spain. 1t totals
about half "A billion gallons u year
Nearly 100. 900 tons of grapes 20 into
he manufacture of raisinS. The total
area under vines is 3,203,.66 acres
Cranes grow IN ali pirts If tn" ma
ton, but the principal vineyards arc
in Catalonia, Aragnn, New ana olh
CASTLE. Valencia and Andalusia.
other important agricultural pro-
luctions are oranges. nuts, beans. pea
nuts, melons. peppers, tomatoes wheat
barley, corn and rice. Almonds arc
produced I'm enormous quantities, and
the industry is undergoing rapid i'm
provement through the new system OF
intensive cultivation,
!, Let no one think that Spain is lag
ging altogether behind In the race oi
). nations. In many respects, especially
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01
ropAY's BEAUTY HINTS

To whiten and beautify the COM
plexion permanently we have found
no better preparation than a lotion
made by dissolving four ounces OF
spurmax in one-half pint hot wa
ter, then adding two teaspoonfuis
glycerin. This removes any pim-
pies, shiny, muddy or sallow aH
p~earance, and will make any one S
skin clear, smooth and velvety. 1t
Goes not show or rub of like pow
der; in fact, it seems a part OF the
skin; and for removing tan and
freckles is u~nequaled.
It is r-sssary to shampoo more
frequently in the warmer weather
because Of excessive dust and the
fact that the head perspires more
ard is usually more exposed to the
weather. The easiest-to-use and
quickest-drying shampoo that we
can recommend to our readers can
be prepared very cheaply by dissolv-
ing a teaspoonful of %canthrOx, OBJ
tanned from your druggist, in a cup
of hot water. This rubbed into the
scalp creates a thick lather, soothing
and cooling in it's action, and very
beneficial to scalp and hair. After
rinsing the scalp is fresh and clean
and the hair dries quickly and
evenly and takes on a bright luste'
and soft hufiness that makes 1t seen
very heavy.-Adv.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

though others must needs be sen to A :,
cleaning establishment because made
ovcr chiffon or silk and very d%aintily
trimmed.
Little flowers Of chiffon or silk are
sometimes Used upon the more elab-
chiffon, lace. nct and silk, and similar
flowers trim the boudoir cap that is
t, oe worn with the negligee.
They are altogether ielectable, these
boudoir caps. and the woman who
can't look pretty in one is plain in
deed: but considerable taste and
thought must be expended upon get
ting the right one. The caps are as
varied and tricky as hats, and The
woman look absurd. 1t isn't enough
that the cap is attractive-though that
is a thing many women do not seem to
understand. 1t must suit he negli-
gee with which it is worn, and it must
suit the wearcr's individuality as well
must be tremendously becoming.
Luckily there are caps for all types
and the simple mob cap, which was
the first incarnation Of the boudoir
cap and is still its most ordinary ex-
preston. is seldom selected by women
of fastidious taste.
There are caps with close bands and
full crowns, all of lace and hand
shirred and corded net and trimmed
in narrow velvet ribbon. There are
close fitting caps with straight LONG
lappets of lace falling down each side
of the face and reaching to the waist
line after the fashion portrayed in onC
of our sketches.
There are close little caps with scan
frills of lace falling over forehead anC
hair from below "A fillet of narrow rib
bon and jabotlng down the back II
double frills to a point below the wais
, line, while the long ends of the file
i, ribbCn minglc with the froth of lace.
There are caps bizarre. caps auda
4 cious, caps absurd. caps dcmure. cap
delicious. and no woman who has
. few dollars to spend or has clever fin
l gers and taste need he without on
or two of the charming things.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

the I'esCado F'r!tO n II there are
salmon steaks ON the bill nf fare tn"
salmon Of the BAY Of BisCaN order
one Of those and have II fried. You
win thirk it all very delicious. But
still YOU have yet to learn of the fun
cXccllcncy Of the fried foods of Spain,
especially the fried iish. II j. at
Seville that fsh is fried better than
anywhere else IN TO civilized or an
civilized world. And don't go to any
of the high class restaurants to get
the fish at its best. Don't go to any
cstauran at all, but to one of the
t,h shops. There arc many of these
unique little hsh shops in Seville.
They arc the popularity of tho town
And everybody in town, ..Sh ard .DT
uatrcaiHHs them. After II" t'@.t.-
you -ry S"a IN" Crowds--''1t.e st~"~'
| urchins and sty,ishly d,os>od folk
gathering about them and taking grca'
interest in tho personal selection ri
the fried fish. They have II wrapp'c
IN brown paper and take Il home viii
them 10 eat with their finger
And M other can do :" much viii
an egg as the spanish chef. II thu
man\ delicious egg lishoT ono of th'
best known is Gypsy egg or lIucvo'
n Ia Flamenco, rs the natives call II
Formerly this delightful dish was
speciality Of the Hotel dc Madrid II
Seville. Nowhere else could it b
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01
HAIR ON FACE
NECK AND ARMS
WHAT CAUSES II

Nature does not produce coarse rtSo
horn growthS of surrrtiuous hair. rhcy
are caused by tn, uuW.se use OF s~o-cdiieI
hair TcnoNerS
The only way Il ain control OF src7
gruwths Is To- dcvlta.I2c them. IL Is M
moss Die To- accomplish this result with
pAstes and ruh-un preparations, because
thrN only remove ht.r tom the surface
of tia, skin. De Miracle. the original
liouil Icpllatorv. dcv!'lli2es nH,r by -.
;ackirs il uuier :j.H Skin AS we'll ~ ~
.ca aga.
limitations Of w. N''lC'~ a-s al worR
l,s- as pt~t's ana run-on l-ep1ra-7-7
because they ltCk certain ingredient
that De Miracle t.oI" contains, which
-iNc I the power To- rob hair OF ITS vital
ity-its III" SuSttuiHg force
Insist ON the genuine i" Miracle and
YOU wll, gct thu original liquid HAIR 70
mower rth""s ~" Worthless limitations
refuse lh"'u IL Miracle Is sold ~
three sizrs, zoe. 81 90 and g. 90 bottles
The larger s'H,~ are thu mort economical
for d,rinttulug SITS and largo users t'
buy. If your dealer VIII not supply you
Cldor direct frum Us TN truth ahou'
tho treatment of supertuous hair mailed
in plain scaled envelope on request, Dt
Miracle Chemical CO., Dept, NJ, Pall
Av. and l29th ST.. New York.-Aav. .,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

In agriculture, she could give America
valuable pointers. That part of Nalen-
ella lying between the mountains and
the Mediterranean is the most in
tensely cultivated region in the world.
Its rainfall averages but seventeen
inches a year. Yet so fertile is the soil
and so skilled it's workers hat il pro-
duces crops worth an average of $40
an acre. There are districts where
100 acres support 100 families and
where single families live On the prod
ucts of four-tenths of an acre. Farms
are rented at less han $50 an aCre
and the tenant pay As cents an hour
for pumped water. which flows in
"a stream Of 200 gallons a minute. AL
most all farming is done by hand, as
minute attention is given to crops and
even to individual plants.
Spanish bread is good and nutri-
tious, but exceedingly nard. It's cold
drawn. seamless crust. Devonian char
acter Of the interior and dainty COLOR
ing make II unique among breads.
Delicately Drowned at the top it
shades into a rich cream color at the
ends Roscos. a form of bread. are
shaped like miniature handbags and
weigh about three ounces each. Pany-
bles are little round biscuits always
eaten or November /. At Barcelona
they may be obtaiaed all the year
round.
Among epicures Spain deserves a
place on the map mainly because of its
sherry wine. Jercz de la ~F'rontera is
the only place in the world where rea
sherry is produced. The name sherry
is a corruption Of "NerNcs,' the
, ancient name Of Jercz. which dates
back to the Roman and Greek occu-
patton Of southeastern Europe wher
il was inhabited by Suahians. Swee'
sherry is never used for local con
sumption. At dinner in Jerez one l.
served at the beginning Of the mea
with a wine that is almost colorles'
and very dry After dinner a sherry
Is brought as dark as mahogany anC
with almost as much body az port.
The red wines of the Marquis d'
Fiscal are esteemed all over the coun
try. Among the most noted of tn
sweet wines are T%arragona port, mos
catel, malaga and the Pedro Jimin"'
of Jercz. Little crabs and snai.s ar
, eaten ny the Spdilldtu as ~ rus w
his wine.
Wine is used with pleasing results II
tho cookery Of Spain. Torlia, a di-I
chiefly eaten on Good Friday, consist
Of slices Of bread dipped in sweet win
or sherry. fried in oil and then CoVele,
with honey and water. somewhat les
outrc is Empanado de Iamon, anoth"
Dish in which sherry is used. y Sic
~ ham is put between W ,lsc"S "
bread and dipped in sherry, and tn
sandwich thus made is dipped in eEi
and fried.
Spaniards and frying pans are tn
c~onr1dcratcd subjects II Spain. The,
understand each other well. and tn
Spanish chefs manipulation of tn
skillet is tho marvel of all other lands
Tha, j. why the f;iol ti,h and ONE
lots II spain arc tho best in tho world
When IN Madrid, II YOU vould sam
pie SPANS Skill with the skillet, orde
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

tiful gem. tourmaline is not ex-
pensive. Since 1920, when two boys
picked up a fine green tourmaline at
the root Of a tree in Mount Mica,
Maine. tourmalines. like amethysts,
have been practically within the reach
of everybody.
I'urru~ees ara vcpases Arc Uher
gems ihs nave lost value ny inc dis
oovery Of American mines or nuner-
Gus specimens. Though the Persian
turquoise is still the most highly
priced, many beautiful specimens have
been taken from American mines.
T~urpuoises, even the best. are affected
by soap and water to such an extent
h a turquoise rings should always he
removed when washing the hands. To
detect a spurious turquoise, or one
that has been improved" is an easy
matter. All that is necessary is to
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01
ny RUTLEDGE RUTHERFORD.

CPAlN is not famed as an epicurean
-. land. Yet the American never
fails to like the eating there.
He likes the estaurant the quaint
marketplaces, the ~promenades and
the peculiar customs. There is a
certain weird fascination about IT all
that is not easy to explain, unless 1t
he hat 1t is so different from any
thing to be found elsewhere. one
wonders IL there Is not some strange
affinity between the peppery dishes
and the olive comp'exioncd senoritas,
the dark red wines and the soothing
olive oils. Almost like the harmonic
ing Of contrasts II seems sometimes
the blending Of the wild with he
gentle. The stringed music, soft and
ton, augmcnts this impression no
little.
Pepper. olive oil and garlic are the
ch~aractcrizing seasonings of spanish
cookery. And very excellent are they,
too. when not overdone. Garlic finds
a fixed place in the kitchens of the
high and low. In the former 1t is
used sparin2ly. in the latter very pro-
fusely. Meats In tho better class places
homes and rcstaurants-arc given
pleasing relish by being slightly
rubbed with garlic before cooking. In
the places of the ,owcr element the
garlic is smearod on the meats ant
everything else to a degree almost un'
bcarahlc To those not accustomed TO II
Capsicum. which when grounc
forms the cayenne pepper OF
Is the favorite pepper seasoninG
Sometimes these peppers are stuffed
and they are served in various forms
Red or green. hut generally green
they are first heated on "A gridiroi
and then steamed in order that tn
skin may be easily removed. the
form an excellent mixture in "A sa!a'
with tomatoes. Pimentos are eater
Extensively and the canning OF then
is an important industry In Barcelona
Spain ranks FIRST amors the DIV
producing nations Of the word. ana
also the greatest producer ot owe o.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

cause il is the birthstone FOR those
born in February beautiful rings Tor
LADIES are Sc, with it.. For such pur-
pos,., however, me lighter shades OF
IT,. At,h- nT- G.,,ally usoS.
~Tourmalines are to be used in IN"
new icwclry to a greater extent than
heretofore if the public taste is found
to approve the new designs offered 10y
the jewclry manufacturers. In colol
they range from black through light
brown, blue, green, red II honey yell
low. some nf the shades are very
rich and it is richness rather than
brilliancy that determines the value OF
"A tourmaline.
Red tourmaline is occasionally &c
much Hike a ruby that IT can only bs
detected by an expert. Though a beau
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01
Evolution From the Old Time and
Homely Wrapper Has Brought Wide
Assortment of Beautiful Things

square decolletage. The am chiffon
draped cloudily with the rose to form
graceful folds that could hardly be
called sleeves and falling down the
back to form a Ash tail train drapcry.
That Is all there Is to II. but every line
is lovely and the co;oring is delight
-.
One might instance scores Of such
diaphanous robes in chiffon and silk
or chiffon and net or chiffon and lace,
and there are wonderful robes made
almost entirely Of cobwebby lace. with
only Innings Of chiffon or perhaps Of
flesh colored net; but there are sim
pier and more practical robes that. II
less subtle in their allure. still have
much charm.
The short model Of our cut. for ex-
ample, is very dainty and attractive in
fine dotted net Of cream tone over a
chiffon or soft silk slip. There is a
deep band Of lace around the bottom,
narrower lace bands on the flowing
sleeves and the neck ruche and two
bands Of light blue satin ribbon are
run through puffs of the net arount
the hips and at a low waist line, giving
the ROBE becoming, straight lines de
spite its fulness..
This same model is made up in finel,
dotted swiss, but is, Of course, a littl,
less hkable in this material becaus,
not quite so soft.
Dotted swiss with very small en-
broidered dots set closely together
which is n Of the old time material
enthusiastically revived this season
Z has been much used by the makers o
high class negligees this summer. an
some extremely good models arc mad
I up in 1t, many Of them beirg fashione,
, 'so that they can be put in the tub
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

handsome silks or satins when worn IN
the house in the afternoon or evcnlnS
i. az exception - this rnlc.
Some w9mcn whose taste III weaving
Jewels is above question contcil" that
from the point Of age diamonds arc IN
uppropriatc to a woman under thirty
Those green bcryls known AZ cmcralds
are also thought by some to he nppro-
pirate only for tn" middle aged ana
elderly. M To a few years ago am"
thys,s ais" Wor" considered gems
worthy of the dlgnified matr"n. Now
that they have become very plcNtiful
il would seem that the appropriateness
Of this stone should he Gaueed by the
hccomingness If It's color to the wear
cr and the type of the costume. Be-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01
Simplicity Of Line the Rule in Crea:
tons for Morning Wear--Attrac-
tive BoudOir CAPS to Match

Tie topaz selected to he pinked u
packed in magnesia. asbestos or LINK
and carefully and gradually heated I"
a low red heat, then gradually ana
carefully cooled. If the temperature
attained has been sufficiently high. n
not too high. the highly priced rose
petal pink topaz Is the result. III The
heat has not been sufficient the result
is n bright salmon pink. IL the heat
has been too great or continued too
long the color of the stone completely
disappears. o
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

wash the suspected stone In strong
ammonia water. This solution Will
not aifect the true stone, but II Will
invariably expose the false.
The topaz is one of the few gem
tones of which the Improvement IL
done without secrecy. The beautiful
rose pink topazcs that are SO Wonder
fully tinted and so generally admired
are products Of art, not nature. The
delicate coloring Of this gem is h re-
suit OF "pinking." applied to a yellow
or a brown topaz.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

waist, not of the peek-a-boo kind. and
n white sailor hat with a blue band.
Her only pieces of iewelry were a bar
pin and the plain gold pin holding her
watch.
\ woman seated at the same table
wore an ccru waist trimmed with real
lace. a string of real pearls with a
diamond and turquoise pendant and
fastening her waist a brooch composed
of "A large topaz surrounded 10y pearls.
Besides she had on n watch chain of
platinum set with pearls and amethysts
and a bracelet with five beautiful corn
flower blue sapphires.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01

placed on scraps Of materials suited
10 them, ~ color. The idea ~as 10 new
that it attracted much attention in the
trads. As y result this Kew move Ia
make jewelry suited In design ana
material to the wearcrs sprang into
existence.
To judge the timeliness OF tire move
one need only look at the women met
in public places. The majority of them
appear to give not the slightest
thought to the appropriateness OF the
tewclry they wear. The question Of
expense is not involved here. one OF
the best dressed women noticed In a
%lunchroom a few days ago was "A shop
girl wearing a ten cent bar pin. With
a neat blue cotton skirt she wore well
kept black shoes. a white cotton shirt
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-01
!, ELEANOR HOYT BRAINERD

e DR. UONT BNAINEV ID.
INNER ncgligecs at their best
-, arc adorable things and even
~ when Of a very simple and in
expensive type they are often
charming.
Each year our designers seem to
understand the problem better, to ge.
further away from the old time wrap
per, and while there liz too much Of
the cheap and trashy In the negligee
field there is also an increasing pro-
norton Of really artistic and dainty
ncgligees at varying prices.
The pretticst are expensive. because
they are not only Of fine materials but
represent skilful designing and care
ful workmanship: yet many Of them
have an air OF extreme simplicity. and
indeed the gorgeous negligee has no
place in the summer wardrobe.
No matter how exquisite or costly
the boudoir gown or tea gown may be,
its beauty must lie in its artistic lines
md color scheme, the fneness of its
materials, the perfection OF its work
manship. not in elaboration: and the
robe that fulfls this ideal is as lovely
a garment as a pretty woman car
wear.
A ease in point is the trailing
gown skctchcd for this page. Any
thing simpler. so far as curtailing Of
trimming is concerned, it would bt
impossible to imagine; yet any woman
Of taste would feel that the charm o.
the model justified the high price
asked for it. A straight yet clingin,
robe Of silk crepe in the loveliest o
rose shades. Hydrangea blue chifoi
drsped very slightly at the waist lin
IN front. lying latly over chest an
shoulder and partly yelling a dee
The Hattiesburg news., 1915-04-05

nervous could not sleep, then would
be SO tired mornings that I could scarcely
get around. 1t seemed almost impossi-
BILE to move or do bit Of work and
thought never would be any better un.
til / submitted to an operation. COM
menced taking Lydia E. Pinkham's Veg
etable Compound and soon felt like q
new woman. ! had no pains, slept well,
had good appetite and could do almost
all my own work for family of four.
] shall always feel that I owe my good
health to your medicine. Mrs. HAY.
WARD Sewers, Hodgdon, Maine.
If you are i'll do not drag along until
an operation is necessary, but at once
take Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable
Compound.
If you have the slightest doubt
that Lydia e. Pinkham's Vegeta-
BILE Compound will help you, write
to Lydia E.Pinkham Medicine Co.
(cOnfidentiaD Lynn, Mass, for ad-
vice. Your letter will be opened,
read and answered by a woman.
and held in strict confidence.