davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Der Deutsche correspondent. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1841-1918, 1915-09-07
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Der Deutsche correspondent. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1841-1918, 1915-09-07
9iiDtr Eielu.
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Der Deutsche correspondent. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1841-1918, 1915-09-07
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Der Deutsche correspondent. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1841-1918, 1915-09-07
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Evening star., 1915-04-11
FASHIONABLE PLAIDS.

IT HE yelling of plaids is a happy
thought, for they are more or less
harsh when used alone. The yelling is
effectively done by means of long
tunic of voile, leaving uncovered only
a very small amount of the plaid frock
beneath. A color for the voile Is Sc
lected SO as to harmonize agreea bly,
with the tones of the plaid. and may or
may not match one of them.
Sometimes one or more wide bands of
satin. matching the voile. are mounted
on the tunic. This method. besides
toning down the plaid. also gives sta
bility to the overgarment of plaid.
This same idea of toning and soften
ing plaids may be accomplished by a
different method. There are sheer voiles
woven in plaids and checks, which are
being used with good effect for the
upper strata. A somber-tinted founda-
tion produces the same effect of soft
ening. Even when the colors of the
plaid are fairly bright they always
have a more subdued appearance on a
transparent material. Light fine cloth
is good material for the foundation
Evening star., 1915-04-11
New Touches which
Women Should Know

liked: tho regulation armhole had to be
varied. and SO a new placement of the
sleeve has arisen which might be
called an ada ptation of the raglan Idea
Improvement Noted.
The top Of the sleeve is cut into a
deep point. which runs to the collar
band. 1t narrows the shoulders and
gives less military look than we
were led to expect would prevail
After all. this pinching in of the shoul-
ders is not general. but it is significant
1t is strongly 1870.
Doeiullet tried out this shoulder line
In the winter. SO 1t is not strictly new,
but his trick has been vastly improved
upon. 1t is used more in coats than
In gowns. It's chief disadvantage lies
in tho fact that 1t will be Well-nigh
impossible to accomplish at home
The average American tailor is such
an admirable master of cloth and
sewing that we may not have any fear
of its being well handled In a low
priced suit. There are few things that
our tailors cannot do when they have
once seen the model. In this fact lies
the secret OF the excellence of our
ready-to-wear street clothes and the
admirable appearance of a vast num-
ber of our women on small incomes
contrasted with the street appearances
Of the working women of other ma
tions.
Evening star., 1915-04-11
But if Women Take to Slippers When Hot
Weather Comes They Will Look Like Ten
Year-Old Girls - Twelve Inches From
Ground Is Measurement of Some Skirts,
and, Strange to Say, the Critics Are Silent

the thick and the thin, the curved and
the straight. the bowed and the flesh
less striding along with no covering
but stockings between the heel and
the hemo This is not a pleasant
thought.
The carrying of 1t out may add to
the beauty of a feminine procession.
1t appears on the surface as though we
were to be asked to approve or COM
bat one of the most remarkable fash
ions that has been put over by the
dressmakers in decades
The women have taken to it like fish
to water. They leap at the idea OF
walking about in an untrammeled
fashion. They have been hobbled so
long that they swing like pendulum
to the other extreme. Skirts that are
six yards wide and ten inches short
delight them. A walk down New
York's 5th avenue at noon makes one
rub the eyes and ask If the Russian
ballet girls have forsaken the stage and
gone on promenade.
Two conditions are responsible for
these costumes: The zeal of the boot
maker and the vogue for the wide
skirts. Every one found that the lat
ter was hideous, II long; six yards
swirling around the insteps or ankles
took every particle of grace away from
a womans figure, SO the hem was
combine beauty with fashion. and at
this juncture the American bootmaker
saw his chance and produced the high
laced shoe and it's more dressy COM
panion. the buttoned cloth boot
But for Observation-Disclosures!
charming fashion. indeed. for the
young woman with a good-looking foot
and ankle, but for the grandmother.
no matter how strongly she retains
semblance of youth, this fashion should
be taboo.
America has developed race of
young women for which some histo-
rian should find a name. They are
as important in their way rs were the
Amazons. Reckless young boys have
named them the kewpies. Social stu
dents are trying to classify them. The
type exists in every stratum Of our So
cial life. They come from the factory
and the millionaire drawing room
they stand in the subway and they run
their own cars: they go to work at
o'clock In the morning and they have
breakfast in bed at 10.
For them all the fashions in the
world seem to be designed. They wear
Evening star., 1915-04-11

~ IMPLICITLY in line is strong
~ feature, and 1t shows the
~ straight path along which the
winds are going. There is no compli
Gated drapery or ornamentation. Nat
urally, the French designer uses more
skill in the manipulation Of material.
and effects are usually simpler than
the methods when the American sew
ing woman goes to copy them.
One Of the we'll known 5th avenue
importing houses in New York said
yesterday that 1t was no easy matter
10 rush out new gowns these days. The
trick they turned in other times of
taking an order for a frock Saturday
afternoon and delivering 1t Wednesday
morning was too difficult to contem-
plate now.
The fashion for putting a picot edge
everywhere has gained in importance
and when there are yards and yards OF
il on one frock time must be allowed
for such work And yet this trick of
putting the tiny pointed edge instead
Of a hem contributes to the seeming
simplicity of a frock.
Jet Is Popular.
Jet is used in quantities, as every one
expected. Jenny likes 1t well and puts
it under tulle more than she does over
1t. There is a strong feeling for the
styles of 1910 and 1870. both of which
call for quantities Of lace and artificial
flowers. Often the latter is used under
the former or to loop 1t up into the
festoons which the Empress of France
liked. That 1840 pointed basque. with
its straight decoletage. also copied by
Eugenie to show her lovely neck and
shoulders, is used by Callot as well as
other houses.
There is also the medieval decollet
age. which is cut in a straight line
across the collar bone and which Is dis
tressingly ugly. Cheruit and some Of
her followers almost discard the deep
decollete line and bring the frocks well
up on the chest. The square front
with the high neck is smart.
Although the high collar Is reckoned
as nrst fashion, the best houses sent
over the neck. which 10 opened in q
v in front. outlined by a handkerchief
collar in soft material. Organdie en-
broidsred in colors IL feature Of many
gowns. It often extends from the neck
| to the waist, forming q vest, q double
collar and also pair Of turnover cuffs.
In the minds OF all the designers q
| strong purpose ran to keep the hips
| smooth and the waist trim. The Sec
| ond empire waist line 10 as frequent as
the normal line. but the balance of
power 10 toward the latter. Evidently
there was some perturbation about the
armhols. The kimono sleeve was not
Evening star., 1915-04-11

~ VEN at the height of the craze
lh for the imitation of Russian
1T. ballet costumes. there never
~ were such high boots and short
skirts as now. victorianism allowed
inches In order to show the fiesh-col-
of q woman with a well-turned ankle
and an arched instep.
We still have those two requisites
necessary for short skirt. The Amer
,can woman has the best looking feet
in the world. possibly barring the
Spanish woman. among those nations
who wear shoes. She is conscious of
the fact and the manufacturers cater
10 1t and the rest OF the world imi-
tates her. But even Nictorianism at
it's best, or worst, never allowed wom
en- to wear skirts so short as the ones
that have come upon us at the coming
of spring.
Twelve inches from the ground is the
measurement of few of the newest.
A hem that ripples six and eight inches
above the floor Is already commonplace
in the large centers of fashionable life.
The strange part of 1t Is that the crit
ics are silent. Are they stunned. or
did the bitter and unsuccessful fight
against the hobble skirt and the split
skirt leave them too discouraged for
further attack? We read no diatribes
against the new fashion: we do not
listen to sermons attacking 1t. as we
did when the boo waists be-
came barred from some churches.
The cartoonists are strangely silent
about this amazing fashion. And 1t is
really amazing. We who saw it COM
ing on were prepared for a storm of
criticism: yet. here the fashion is pop
ularly launched. and the only comment
anent it is left to the reporters, not the
reformers. Between these two classes
in womens apparel there is a vast
gulf Of difference fixed.
When Slippers Come.
So far the effect of a skirt cut ten
inches from the floor is mitigated by
the high boots worn: but what of the
effect when the warm weather makes
women discard the boots and go In for
pumps? Are we to have the sight OF
Evening star., 1915-04-11
Tempting the Palate
With Delicious Liver

have pound and half of liver in
one piece. Wipe 1t with a damp cloth
and trim 1t neatly and then put In
some strips of salt pork with a lard
ing needle across the top. Bake in a
hot oven for half an hour, basting
often, and serve with brown gravy
made in the baking pan.
Still another method is to add lit
tie lemon juice to the liver gravy. This
gives it a piquant flavor that is de-
cidedly tempting. The lemon is added
to the fat, after most of 1t Is poured
away, and then flour and butter rolled
together are added. and then enough
water to make gravy of the right con-
sistency.
Evening star., 1915-04-11

q IVER is one of the meats that
tempts the spring appetite. It is
~ savory and 1t is not heavy-two
points most decidedly in its favor at
this season.
There are many ways of cooking liver
and for that reason it might very well
make it's appearance on our tables
more often than 1t does simply fried
and served with bacon.
Moreover, there are two good kinds
Of liver: Calls liver and lambs liver.
And the lambs liver. although much
cheaper than the other kind. is de-
licious when properly cooked. So,
when the price of calf's liver is pro-
hibitive or when it is not to be had
even for a price, try lambs liver for a
change.
With Gravy.
To begin with the best way to cook
liver and bacon is to wipe off the
slices of liver with a damp cloth and
then to drop them, with two slices of
lean bacon to every one Of liver, into
smoking hot fat in deep kettle. Let
them brown like crullers, remove them
for a moment to a piece of brown
paper, then put them on a hot plat
ter Oliver and bacon together). sprin-
kle with salt and pepper and serve. If
a gravy is desired. spread a little
melted butter sauce, well seasoned,
with the liver.
Another way Of preparing liver is to
brown slices of 1t in a skillet and, as
soon as they are Drowned on both sides,
to remove them to baking pan,
dredging each slice with flour and
sprinkling with salt and pepper. Cover
the pan and bake for three-quarters
of an hour.
To prepare liver with cream gravy.
slice the liver a third Of an inch thick,
drop for a second into boiling water
and slash the edges of each slice a
few times to keep them fro mcurling.
Then brown in hot fat in a skillet.
Remove the slices Of liver to a sauce
pan and cook till yellow sliced onion
in the fat and then add 1t to the liver
with enough cream to cover. Simmer
for ten minutes, covered. and then
serve. seasoned with pepper and salt.
A Different Method.
Another way to cook liver with bacon
is to soak the slices for twenty min
utes, then to dry them and roll them
in -four, and then to brown them in
the fat in which slices of bacon have
been cooked crisp. Then pour OF most
of the fat. add hot water and -four to
the rest and pour over the liver for
gravy.
Evening star., 1915-04-11
NOVELTY BELTS.

A attractive belt in black and white
~ is unlined and ornamented with a
series OF black ribbon lacings in ir-
regular length. in three-strap erect
The ribbon is passed through black
eyelets. and similar eyelets are used
to adjust the size.
Patent leather belts are trimmed
with white kid and with white stitch
ing in striking effects in various
widths Belts of patent leather COM
bined with calfskin are smart Among
the favorites are black inset with tan,
red. blue or white. One Of white kid
edged with black patent leather is
made with two gold rings on each side
and fastened with buckle of patent
leather edged in gilt.
A belt of suede in French gray is
made with gilt slide on each side and
fastened with an ova1-shaped buckle
of the leather edged with rim of gilt.
Evening star., 1915-04-11
AND RED EMBROIDERY.

toed, fat-heeled and reached far above
the hem Of her skirt. It was consid-
cred a Poiret fantasy.
Today our best women are asking for
these high Russian boots. The man
nequins who showed off the new fash
ions in New York wore them.
Another fashion of the hour which
was introduced at the Paris openings
in February Is the high-laced satin
Evening star., 1915-04-11

boot to be worn in the afternoon and
evening. IT has taken the place in
smart usage of the satin slipper. The
mannequns in Paris are supposed to
introduce the newest footwear along
with the newest gown and their high
satin boots, made of the gown ma
terial. worn at the private openings
for American buyers, instantly started
a new fashion.
Evening star., 1915-04-11
Amusing Place Cards.

n F you have photographs Of friends
whom you wish to entertain at
luncheon or dinner. cut out the photo
graph heads and paste them on bodies
cut from magazines or other pictures
Very amusing results can be obtained
in this way. Mount these composite
people, with your friends heads, on
little cards, and label each with the
name of the person to whom the head
belongs Small snapshot photographs
are the best for this purpose.
Evening star., 1915-04-11

woman with the long foot and the thin
ankle look in these Russian ballet
skirts and boots? A card of warning
should be put up in every dressmaking
house in the country concerning them.
When Paris first took up for men
and women the almost square-toed
Evening star., 1915-04-11

OF course, they can wear the short
skirt and the high boot. for nature
seems to have given every one of them
the possibility of looking fascinating in
whatever happens to be the idea of
the moment: but how will the tall
woman. the short. stout woman, the
Evening star., 1915-04-11

everything that Is launched with brill
liancy and bravado. They are the de-
light of the dressmakers and the des-
pair of their imitators. They are not
French, nor English. They owe moth
ing to any race. or any land. or any
training. They are made in America.
Evening star., 1915-04-11
Fashion for spats Continues.

The foot fashion which England has
forced upon the world Is the wearing
of tan or gray spats at all hours Of the
day. This is an established custom
among Englishmen. but 1t Is now the
most popular fashion among American
women. They wear this cloth upper
over the most extravagant patent
leather pump with high Louis XIV
heels.
Women who go in for sensible shoes
and these are also quite fashionable
this spring with the two-layer heel and
fat shoes-also place the tan and the
gray spat above them. One might safely
assert that the strong rivalry at the
moment Is between the spat and the
laced shoe, each being in tone or
tan.
There seems something incongruous
in the juxtaposition of a cloth spat
above a. Louis XIV patent leather slip
per; realizing this there has come
about a fashion for fancy uppers made
of corded silk of thin suede, of heavy
brocade
One sees these on the street in the
afternoon admirably harmonizing with
the skirts above them. Summing 1t
up, there seems no place for the un-
covered ankle in the fashions OF this
spring, but the warm weather VIII
surely change this condition, higa sa
shelved in the closet when the first
hot day strikes town.
1t has always been a curious coincf-
dence in fashion that new things are
brought out at unsuitable seasons The
designers advance the high neck and
the long sleeves when spring comes
and the high boots for dancing when
summer is scheduled. and the trans
! parent blouse when the snow begins to
fly. Possibly these are just advanced
runners of the fashion. If we do not
feel tempted to dance In high satin
boots or brocaded spats this warm
weather season, we shall probably find
| the fashion in full swing by September.
Dancing in High Boots.
When Nine. Paul Poilet was here she
| introduced the fashion for wearing the
regulation high Russian boot in white.
red and tan leather It was square
Evening star., 1915-04-11

High-waisted dresses are not so fash
ionable for children as they were in
tho beginning Of the season. Dresses
with tho belt at the normal waist line
are In better style.
Evening star., 1915-04-11

BROWN WAS COMBINED WITH
OF TAFFETA, AND TAFFETA
TO WHOLE
Evening star., 1915-04-11
Shorter Skirts Bring Much Higher Boo

shoe laced up the front and made up
OF a combination Of patent leather ana
tan-colored cloth, 1t was called the
Argentine. All the men. except Eng,
lishmen, wore this shoe abroad. ana
after this example the women took 1t
up. 1t reached America this winter
and was scoffed at. Now 1t Is accepted,
even by conservatives. 1t Is the street
shoe Of the season. and we look upon
1t with kfndliness and buy pair our
selves, although we wondered in the
beginning of its reign how any one
could make her feet so conspicuous.
The blocked toe of the French has
been changed to the pointed American
class Of young women who like that
shortened appearance of the feet which
the short vamp and the square toe give.
Deep tan cloth, usually with a heavy
twill, Is used for the upper part, and
dull or patent leather for the vamp.
the heel and the bands up the front
The fashion for this color has brought
back the laced Russian leather shoe
in It's natural tan. The smartest wom-
en- are wearing 1t in the morning. laced
high on the leg with their short-skirted
suits of covert cloth, or khaki-colored
gabardine, or Scotch check in red and
brown.
For afternoon wear there are all
manner of high boots with colored
cloth tops, especially in tan and beige.
Some Of these are made in the com
monplace fashion with a dull leather
bottom and a suede top fastened with
small smoked pearl buttons: but the
newer ones are far moro fanciful
They are of beige -colored cloth with
only the vamp and heel Of vanished
leather. The bootmakers and many
women claim that this type of shoe
makes the foot look smaller; and 1t is
a point to be remembered by the wom-
an with long foot that a break be-
meath the instep. between the vamp
and the heel part, is a trick that al
ways seemingly shortens the foot.
However popular these boots are, they
look entirely unfit for the street. They
are good enough for afternoon occa-
sions in the house or for the motor.
but they look out of place with any
kind of fashionable street suit.
The bronze boot has also been re-
vised 1t comes in the most fragile
workmanship. which makes 1t suit
able for the afternoon dance. but not
the morning shopping. Unfortunately.
too many women do not discriminate
nicely between these occasions.
Evening star., 1915-04-11

"a VEN at the height of the craze
lIa for the imitation of Russian
1T. ballet costumes. there never
IL were slIch hiph boots and short
Evening star., 1915-04-11

When Nine. Paul Poilet was here she
the fashion for wearing the
regulation high Russian boot in white,
red and tan leather It was square