Evening journal., 1915-03-27

NEW YORK. March 27.-with the
first breath of spring weather. cos
tunes begin to take on spring-like |
cOlorings. Hats i'm gayer colors or |
trimmed with bright flowers and fea- |
theirs announce to the world that |
spring has returned even when the |
suit OF dress remains of the sOmber |
colors of winter.
Covert cloth has been the novelty |
in winter suits and is very popular in |
! the spring, for it is light in color and |
combines with many things. A new
cloth called buck-skin covert is the
newest of this type.
A few days ago | received announce
ment cards from Fifth avenue dress
making establishment, of a private
view of their newest models. From the
| general salesrOOms I was guided into
gray and gold elevator and from
there to an artistic room also IN gray
and white and gold. The simplest of
small stages occupied one side of the
room. few chairs were placed care
lessly around the room, and We made
, ourselves comfortable for the review.
Boleros were the most striking fea-
( lures shown. Short little bobby sleeve
less jackets, some cut square and
straight around. others scallOped or
slashed. These were worn over full
blOuses which bloused a trifie over the
/ belt or girdlc instead of being pull
ed straight down. Most of these were
lOng-sleeved, while others had the bell
sleeves, three-Quartcr or half-length,
wide and unbound at the lower edge.
/ The skirts we're full and short. most
of them being built on peasant lines,
with full apron-like overskirts front
and back. divided on the sides and
/, showing a plain or rufhed underskirt
beneath
Another noticeable feature in these
a dresses was the fact that they were all
made with normal waistline. an in
teresting fact when one thinks of all
the lOng-Waisted and empire lines
which are shown as forerunners OF
, spring and summer fashions. II is a
fact that the frocks made on empire
lines are decidedly for the girlish
figure while the rOund-waisted frocks
suit all styles of figure more or less.
Another type Of costume shown here
was taken from the 18th Century
French costumes. The waist was in
doublet effect slashed several times
front and back through which the
creamy white chiffon blouse peeped.
A short pleated peplum finished the
lower edge of the waist. This was
worn over a full skirt with a pleated
ruffe on the bottom. An interesting
thing to remember Is that these pleat-
ed rufiles which are used on the bot
tom of so many skirts are pressed
fiat and put on the lower edge with
out a heading Of any kind.
In these dresses the long tunic was
shown in many different styles. Some
times with a pleated lower skirt show
ing just below. and again with an un-
derskirt of flmy lace.
One of these frocks | will describe
in detail. rhe skirt had a long blue
tunic striped with a thread of yellow
and crossed with satin stripe. This
was slashed up about eight inches and
faced upon the upper side with plain
blue. The pleated underskirt of plain
blue just peeped out from beneath the
tunic
A short bolero jacket also slashed
and bound with plain blue is worn
over q white chiffon blouse with
narrow pleat down the center having
. narrow frill on either side. The
long sleeves had deep fiaring cuffs of
the striped silk with frill of the chif
fon around its edge. The collar Of the
blouse was very high with a frill of
chiffon above and below.
Another little dress which sported
short bOlero jacket and chiffon
blouse having deep bell sleeves OF
the chiffon. had a skirt which showed
a new evolution OF the tunic skirt The
skirt was Of blue chiffon taffeta with
two box-pleatings around the bottom.
The skirt was the full length in the
back. but the front was the depth Of
two box-pleated ruffieh shorter. and
beneath were two box-pleated frills Of
/. white chiffon. The effect was stun
n ming.
Contrast ie a strong note in the col
or combinations of the. season. Many
/, dark jackets were shown with white
or light colored skirts. Wide leather
I belts were used on some of the dress
os. One white serge dress had a red
patent leather belt which was very
= effective indeed.
e A white chiffon afternoon dress
showed the raglan sleeves with sur
plice fronts of filet lace and 4 loose
panel Of the tilet lace in the back The
unusual skirt was made OF chiffon
with three graduated bands Of shirred
2 silk applied Each band WAS shirred
upon cord top and bottom which