The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-10-17

Louis XIV. Louis XVI, Revo-
- lutionary. Consular. Restora-
ton? Would you prefer to
pose as Vatican shcphe. dcss or Cos
sack? Have you a penchant for crino-
lint or for Turkish trousers?
There's really nothing to prevent
your INDUCING any such whim this
fall. SO long as you remember to keep
your shoulders slim and your skirt
hens ample. Prodigality in bodice
material and scantinsss in skirt mate
rial are the two thou shalt nots VI the
seasons modes. Aside from these re-
strictions one may go as far as she
pieases IN almost any direction and
will probably find herself in line with
ideas promulgated by some one of the
French fashion makers.
Just as the m liners must have said
'high crowns and then devoted them
selves to DEMONSTRATING how unlike
each other hats with that ne limita-
ton could be made. so the drcssmakcrs
must have said slim shoulders and
full skirts: and then whirled off. each
n at her own particular tangent.
Certain modes have been So quickly
picked up and popularized by the
manufacturers Of cheap suits. frocks.
&c. that one is likely to overlook
this element Of infinite variety. I'M
les. she studies carefully the groups
OF models turned N by the authorita-
nice prologue to- the choosing OF Il
winter wardrobe. one nay not want
an exac copy OF any one of the i'm
ported models, may not be able to have
II even II she wants 1t. but the survey
vii. he Illuminating and will encourage
the cult of individuality rather than
adoption of the IN des most generally
exploited.
II you know what is becoming to
you. madam, there Is no reason this
season why you should not wear it.
Even If abhor the short. full skirts
n yearn for long, cling.ng lines
we'll. Cabot has her usual picture
gowns this year, and Worth. though
smiling on hoops and %flounces. still has
his models of dignity and quiet charm.
II you don't want to pinch in your
waist line you can expand in the best
oil company. II fiaring fulness offenda
your taste YOU full skirt can fail
straight. You may bust.e or pannier
or 80 smooth hipped. You may have
your sleeve puff at top or middle or
bottom. Your high collar may cling
or fare. Your bodice may fasten
down the back or down the front.
You nay wear narrow gird.e. wide
girdfe or no g.rdle at all. Your after
hoo frock may be OF velvet and fur
or Of chiffon and lace. You may top
Nnttp hnuA Ia, IN riItcpl,ralx sp,n1l hat
or an extravagant.y large hat.
And all this tends to make the new
seasons clothes interesting. Probably
we shall settle down later To a few
adaptable costume motifs and ring
u changes pom them, but certainly
the . designers have offered ample
variety from which to choose.
The models with eXaggeratedly long
waist Inc deeply pointed bodice are
among the extreme things that the
season has brought forth. They have
been foreshadowed by models Of the
past two seasons. but now we have
them in their radical form, and oddly
enough, along with the curved in
waist line and deep bodice point come
other deep pointed bodices with
s%traighter lines-the Italian bodice Of
old days, long. plain, curving but
slightly at the waist.
Both types Of bodice are welded to
full skirts that flare out frivolous.y
below the severe combining lines of the
bodice, and most Of the experiments
along these lines have been made in
evening frocks.
There is Worth's frock Of satin and
tulle with its long. narrow bodice
point. its hoped pannier skirt effect.
its fiuttering velvet bows, a most
frivolous creation this for the house
OF Worth. that purveyor to conserva-
tives and particularly 10 English
fashionables. but n Il the most
charming Of the new seasons hoped
modes.
There are plenty Of skirts stiffened
in one way or another. and where
the skirts are not stiffened in any