New Britain herald., 1915-02-05
Embroidered Arrow Trimming Now Appears on Suits in Unexpected Places They Are the Striking Details of the Smart Spring Suit Particularly Good Spring Model Has Pearl
 Gray Cover.

The embroidered arrow is one of the striking details on the smart suit of the spring. These cmbrOideries are not new, but they are unusual, be-
 cause many seasons have elapsed
 since their last revival, and in their
 present form they appear in unex-
 peCted places.
 One of these places is on the shOul- ders of the jackets. but not crossing them. The arrow itself starts on the seam, running from collar to arm eye. and it's head rests upon the corre- spending shoulderblade By this means the arm eye is very definitely indicated and a narrow effect pro- duced
 This appearance of slenderness is quite frequently repeated at the back, where pair of arrows starting at the waist line. point straight upward. When these four arrows, two at the shoulders and two at the waist, are embroidered on the back of jacket it's narrow effect is almost extreme and oddly in contrast with the lower portion of the garment, which nearly always has considerable flare.
 Arrows Are Double Headed.
 Particularly good among the ad- vance models for spring is pearl gray cover. The back of the jacket is distinguished by a quartet of large arrows pointing down from the shoul- ders and up from the waist. It shows, however, novel phase of the embroidery in that the lower pair of arrows are double headed. Of course those extra heads have a mission to perform-tle mission of holding the material where it is pleated at the belt line. This makes a fan flare at either side, which clearly em- phasizes the small waist effect, which is a feature of many a spring gar ment.
 From the front no one would ever suspect the gray covert-from Callot, by the way-of carrying arrows. Broad straps of the material, start ing from the shoulders, cross below the bust upon a closely fitted waist coat, and from where they cross are trimmed with closely placed, long buttonholes, tipped with small but tons of gray horn. This novel style of trimming is repeated from the wrists almost to the elbows on the backs of the closely fitted sleeves.
 In view of the tendency toward flare in skirts, the japon of this Callot suit is a surprise. Most of the material is in an overdress, which stands in wide, irregular folds away from the narrOwest of underskirts-an under skirt, by the way, which scarcely shows. The contrast of the wide skirt and the narrow shoulders is al mOSt a shock.
 Rows of Arrows Best Trimming.
 Rows of small arrows make the smartest sort of trimming for a spring tailor made No better way exists for indicating the limits of the yoke at the base of the hips. But the yoke is not necessarily all encircling: in fact, it rarely is so, for the new skirts show tendency to run straight from waist to feet at the center of back and front and to break their course by a yoke at the sides only. What better for this purpose than a row of closely set, down pointing ar rows?
 To narrow the appearance at the back, a row of longer arrows, start ing at the belt, may partly fill in the space between the side yokes. This is the sole trimming of a skirt be- longing to tailored suit of darkest blue cheviot serge. Although one might expect to find down pointing arrows on the jacket, in this case they go crosswise. At the waist line they cover the shirring stitches, which cause the jacket to ripple about the hips. The jacket fits closely to the figure, and would be too severe but for the flat lying, widely turned back collar of white satin.