davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

not close to 1t. Sleeveless and boldly cut out
on the shoulders and below the arms, the up
per part OF this polonaise takes a bolero ap-
peara7oe which, however does not destroy the
skiliully planned long lines of the garment
The slightly bloused under-arm portions
and the mousquetare sleeves belong to the
sham under-waist, also in CLOTH to which is at
tached the almost concealed lower dress. With
this costume Is worn a grape-purple velvet tall
turban heightened by a sash ribbon bow ap-
Piled diagonally to the crowns apex. At one
end of the turban pair of loops slant abruptly
to the lower edge of the brim. The more dar-
ing the bow, the better is it liked.
The woman who bought the grape-colored
hat thought she was wearing the most unusual
thing in ribbon knottngs until she encount-
cred plum-color- CARRIED friend whose dish
brimmed velvet hat carried a sash grosgrain
bow Of four enormous loops. Two Of these
loops lowered high above its tall crowns back,
while, from the other side Of a huge knot
kindred pair of loops spread downward to
touch the edge of the narrowest of brims This
is a shape that the mdde-aged matron Of
average height-or over-is certain to like.
She will assuredly find it appealing if she sees
il upon the woman for whom the model was
created 1t is worn with a one piece gabardine
frock in plum shade, whose plain back and
front Join on the shoulders under single bands
in soutache embroidery and across the sides
with self-straps, buckling at the waist-line.
These detached belts hold in finely sidepleat-
ed under-arn forms which give necessary full
ness to the skirt between the gored front and
back sections.
Its horrid to have to think Of chilly days,
for they advent winter Nevertheless the days
and the winter are slated to arrive, and that
early autumn breezes are almost upon us the
advance models in lightweight wraps clearly
announce. We dare not ignore these garments.
for they are going to be needed shortly More
over. we honestly do not wish to do so. They
ar too unusual and too alluring to be over
looked
Most unusual is the collar of an almost en-
veloping coat in cloth Of that adorable shade,
Chinese amber Had we not been told that the
great piece of self-toned velvet, accurately
fitted 70 the shoulders, was a neck finish,
should innocenhy have spoken Of it as a short
cape. For it extends half way down the back
half way to the elbows, and would cover the
bust did its side edges meet But they arc
widely separated, obviously to expose fronts
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

closed diagonaly from right TO left between
the threats base and the hips base. From
there the fronts drop to within FIVE inches Of
the skirts hem which elsewhere is covered.
Only slight ripple has this garment, and all
Of that waviness comes at the sides and the
>back. 1t fits smoothly from across the shout
ders, with which are cut the upper halves of
the sleeves, TO within an inch so Of the
waist. where the cleverly added extra fulness
shows in a cluster Of tiny gathers With few
shallow "take-ups" set far apart the lower
halves of the sleeves are attached to the up
pers, and thus remain practically straight and
almost equally wide at the wrists. Here the
cloth is evenly turned back and the long but
tonholes worked along its centre are brought
over large buttons in deepest amber, matching
the quartet fastening the coats fronts. Diff
cult would it be to find more novel cuff. Or
a simpler.
TUSSORE A FAVORITE MATERIAL.
Tussore always makes a bid for favor as
material for early autumn wraps. This season
It is registering a decided hit in the sort Of
wrap which every woman who goes about at
all needs as a protection to the afternoon cos
luIuG. rev VI tIlSSS SIN NOdNS WlOi4J NCESA
the frock, which is fortunate circumstance, as
the frocks for early autumn are fetching affairs.
Yet most Of the wraps are a trife longer at the
back than elsewhere, after the fashion OF
garment in gray tussore whose panel drops
straight from the ends OF the shoulders. max
ing two definite lines TO hallway over the hips,
where they button-not OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES
the side seams OF inordinately wide fronts.
From these buttons the panel flares in unison
with the coats fronts, which are half covered
by immense square patch pockets. To make
these receptacles the more salient they are
provided with flaps of two-thirds the dimen-
sions Of the square. Equally striking looking
is the collar of this model In widely striped
faille. in deeper shade of gray than the tus
sore it drops over the back after the manner
of shallow hood. This turned back lower
edge continues across the shoulders doubles
self gradually into long ends, and these, hav
ing crossed at front, run backward over the
hips to lose themselves beneath the panel back.
Undeniably shoulder cape of circular cut is
the attachable upper portion Of a coat in white
tussore widely bordered with white mohair
braid Quite TO the waist line it ripples and
covers all save the forearms OF sleeves whose
cuffs are broad and bit haring. It's collar is
so broad that, untrammeled, its corners would
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05
By MERCEDES CARRIES

~URPLE clad ladies are everywhere but
- particularly it such exclusive resorts as
Il Bar Ha-bor. Newport and SOuthamp-
,on. II LADY IS not wearing a grape shade,
then almost certainly she is an exponent Of q
mum hue. F-r the ianumerable tones Of these
,vo luscious .,-..s are smart for early autumn.
Th.v rro~ise 90 he fashionable throughout
,,xt winter. tut Madame Modish, most tickle
II her sex. nay suddenly change her fancy.
The ha: vt.-a IS making the success Of this
..sson aro-- Che women who are reluctantly
,bando-ing ,ae st.f-brimmed straw sailor, is
eaued The Pilgrim" Really. it is a sugar
Iosted sailor having an inch and half wide
brir. AT It's best it is in black velvet banded
n. width Of ,ts tall crown with a royal purple
novelty plush scarf whose ends join at the lett
side under q CIT stee. Egyptian ornament
A Iunoesc1c woman Of the Southampton
colony bought this hat % wear with a purple
absline frock whose under dress at either side,
;s drawn W IN wide double box pleat. This
treatment produces the .nuch-to-be-desired
irregular hem an effect repeated in an over
dress dropping a tri6e below the knees at the
sides and end.rs there 10 show the whole Of
sraight-fallng 'front.' gathered to the waist
band The hie- girdle Of the blouse also ends
at the sides. where Il runs under a closely fitted
one.piece front cut from shoulder to bust into
sharp poin, which is filed by high-colored
whit, batiste s-mPe.
The irreguls- hem Of another skirt in purple
grape-colo1e5 5-e cloth scarcely shows below
polonaise whose single-breasted fronts but
ton straight from the knees to the chest. where
the slightly turned bach throat is trimmed with
double short aoot in white lace The jabots
emerge from the ends Of an evenly turned-over
cloth collar standing high about the neck, but
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

phase Of the Hungarian turban, and perhaps it
is. but the hat which most suggests the semi
Oriental is long, very small turban whose
velvet brim extends TO the top OF crown
from whose centre rises pair OF slender
paradise pluInes in canary. They are rooted IN
A slender leaf ornament in cut steel which
holds them loftily from the crowns apex. Put
thft chapeau above well filed out oval face
end the effect will be long worth remembering
Coo plumes, the long, spirally, incense
ouent sort are going to be fashionable tor
FIRST" season hats. And because these trim
mings look as though the autumn breeze
would play havoc with them do not be afraid
TO buy them. All are wired. but so delicately
that the interrogation curl seems natural
cir who invariably wears black autumn hat
has ? Goa aigrette at either end a a velvet
urbsn whose left side brim is split and the
divisions rolled into cornucopias. Through
their open ends emerge the-er-rooster tails
Where the points Of the cornucopias meet at
the centre of the brim's base is diamond
shaped ornament in black, blue, green end
yellow fine beads.
Supposing that you always wear large hatsf
Some women do if they are tall, have guam
tity os hair and wish their faces to look dime
sized" Much as the milliner would desire
YOU 70 choose a tiny shape because sheer
he-knows they are the smart thing Tor the
hour" there are plenty Of broad-brlmmed ei-
fects. Take the fine French felt whose brim
rolls widely at one side, to be depressed at
tn opposite one the better to show wonder
fully attractive bow in two fiat loops pointing
forward and single flatter loop pointing
backward. There are no huttering ribbon
ends. for it is not frivolous model, although
its rather square crown is covered with hat
roses and foliage in worsted. Fancy tins
shape in royal purple, its bow in dull gold
pcotedged purple ribbon and its crown all
but concealed by mass Of exotcs IN shaded
mauve worsted
Then there are the felts and panne velvet
shapes in pastel tones with black velvet bands
encircling crowns-round or square-trmmed
at the base with an ending in skunk or summer
sable. and having wide brins carrying tiny
nosegavs. At times the brim is denied down
ward in four places and the nosegays nestled
in the cavities. Many Of the wide shapes carry
sash ribbon bows and just cluster OF velvet
roses Chenille is used or oddly linked tar
nished silver band-chains upon certain shapes,
and there are any number Of handmade pref
ties" called bird pumage. But it would be
hard 70 find denizen of the air wearing any
thing like unto them.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

That the black and white handkerchief, in no
sense resembling the mourning expression OF
that accessory, is regarded as ulua-chic9
When above quarter inch a-jour hem come
a series of three cluster bars, between whose
stripes are rows Of tiny black dots. Again, the
bars in wider form will be of cleverly mingled
lines in the maybe combination on white or
black. Very smart are the black handkerchiefs
bordered solidly with white and maybe me
dalton marked at one corner.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

There are YET fair enough days
LETT i'm The calendar 10 commend
10 ones consideration fhiS gar
den frOck Of VeIium tinted crepe
Georqeffe and uaIiHeS. win a
crOSSsOVer cOrsage and turns
back CUTS OF yeIIHm tinted char
HIeuSe.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05
She Who is Smart Wears the Same Shade Of Grape or Plum
N0w-Tussore Is q Likable Material for Early
Autunil Wraps, and Hats Pilgrim,
Mandarin or C0Q1e Nodes

II would be folly 10 even attempt model ut
your hair is not ali but fat) having the narrow
est OF slightly-roled brims coming against an
oblong crown, delicately depressed trlfle
along its lett side. You may have slender,
spiral fancy on this shape, and wear IT for
running about. Or make the hat deliberately
simple by ordering its brim headed with black
Jet ed -ing, two INCHES broad, and as stiffiy up
standing as a privet hedge. 1t is heightened,
wherever height is most desirable, with Man
DARN aigrette.
If you do not know the Mandarin, be care
ful not to say so, for that slenderly fluffy
stand-up is the last cry in chic trimmings. 1t
is on some of the best looking of the tiny
turbans, notably a model whose black velvet
brim folds backward to ultimately develop into
four turrets lying hatly against a rose felt
crown At the LETT front a Mandarin is die
tatorally posed. Milliners call this model
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

That the most artistic OF door stop contriv-
ances is basket filled with fowers3 Unfad-
able exoties they arc, and unbreakable, too, for
they IRE in painted iron like the basket which
holds them. Despite its substantial fat base,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

That quaint looking novelty in expensive
handbags is six-sidcd? It's fat front and back
have each single centre gore, whose greatest
width. coming at the base OF the bag forms
one OF its sides. To these cores are scanned
under pipings--triangles having one blunt end
These ends. coming at the top OF the gore
help 20 form the sixth SIDE which also is the
metal mounted opening, and to which is linked
the widest Of strap handles. The bag is most
chic in black pin seal and polished silver,
though it is good in seal brown and dull gold.
That hand-woven Chudda shawls are again
being worm In their present incarnation they
are fashionable for summer evening veranda
wraps. and very charming they look with
white CT pale toned frock. Smartest OF all are
the shawls in gray of delicate shade, with an
embroidered bordering in Persian medallions.
Ivory-toned shawls in Chudda weave are SINH
larry embroidered and are exquisite affairs nm
shed with designs in dull reds, blues and
greens. mingled as only colors can be blended
in Eastern India.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05

That unique and attractive sewing set
holder is in the shape of doll2 The doll, seat
ed on a low pedestal in cardboard coming
through Sits cut in the lid OF a square box,
has wide-spreading skirts, extended by erino-
line petticoat Between her hands which ap-
parently hold out the sides OF the skirt. runs
a stout cord forming reel for from three to
six spools of sewing silk. Along the top OF the
box lid runs thickly padded pin cushion, below
which scissors and bodkins are held in place
by ribbon straps while at the back OF the skirt
a needle book is attached The doll may be
CARRIED in any quaint fashion. but is prsttiest
when dressed as an 1860 belle.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-09-05
Pointers from the
Woman Who Knows

the receptacle appears TO De OF "o'e" ie0Hs
filed TO OVERLOOKING with garden blooms OF
the larger type, like roses, peoples and morn
ing-glories.
That the smart hand coverings worn with
riding and golf costumes are gauntlets IN two
materials? The palms and cuffs OF the gloves
are in cape skin, while the backs are in Isle,
so that. while the hands are actually covered
with thin, cool fabric, their cuticle IS insured
against injury. Both materials wash satistae-
torily, as most women know.
That for the country no sports costume &c
cesssory is so smart as the walking stick? The
average girl contrives 70 acquire tanciiul
head in silver hammered brass or carved wood,
and then begs, borrows or-yes, she's been
known to steal-a blackthorn, hazel hickory,
maple malacca or bamboo stick from her
father OF brother Then she gets the wood pol
ished to the highest degree Of lustre attain
able. Crook handled oak sticks are also deemed
very desirable, even by the cir. who can afford
a more fsncful top if the feminine athlete
goes in for accessories of the sternly praeti-
cal order
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
HENS WINTER RESIDENCE
MADE or PACKING BOXES

house is covered with roofing paper
and the floor with straw. At the back
of the house is the roosting pole, six
feet long. The nest is small wooden
packing box. The drinking water is
kept in a tin can and the gravel and
oyster shells In q small box on the
floor
The cost Of this house was: roof
ing paper. $2.25: window, SO cents;
nails. Is cents; uprights, IS cents: to-
tai, 1886.
The hens cost rs cents aoie II. They
will be used to supply the kempster
family with eggs until spring. when
they viii ind their way into tas pot.
The mothers were Rhode Island Reds
and averaged IA eggs each for the
year. The eggs we're produced at
about II cents dozen. The daugh-
ters have started In to keep up the
family record. and Mr.. Kempster sees
no reason why they should not do it
They will be kept in the henhouse all
winter and will not be used for breed
ing purposes. but simply for egg pro-
duction.
The backyard poultry man usually
fails because he undertakes too much.
according to Mr.. Kempster. The av-
erage city lot is not big enough for
meat production. egg production and
breeding purposes all at once. The
male bird generally makes himself a
nuisance BY his early rising propen-
stiles and places his owner in dis
favor with the neighbors. Egg pro-
duction IL the most practical and
profitable to undertake on town lot.
The male mird il eliminated, and the
hens may be eaten In the spring when
thev are worth abost 8 cents . pound.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

ing Christmas carols for those who
want them.
They are to be called the Clio
Carol Singers" said Miss Laura Searcy,
to whom much Of the credit for this
organization Is due. The movement
will help to foster the right Christ
mas spirit in little children" she says.
Miss searcy has secured assistants
who are training greups Of children.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

dresser or a kitchen cabinet or even
a bedroom suite, but as house. Mary
d. and Jennie F. and B. NJ L. have
been surpassed in their ingenuity
and by . man.
H. L. Kempster Of the poultry de-
partment of the University has built
q henhouse Of packing boxes. 1t is in
his backyard and is used to house not
merely one little red hen but six.
The house is six feet square, with
one 2x3 feet window In the front.
Half of the window is glass. The
other half of 1t is open. The entire
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Each group will be composed Of ten
children. accompanied BY chaperon.
Any persons interested, who would
like to sing or help chaperon. would
be gladly welcomed. Their repertoire
Of carols will be as follows: God
Rest You. Merry Gentlemen" "Good
King wencelas." SILENT Night" and
'.Hark, the Herald Angels Sing"
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

liams in The Rosary" the phoeoplay
Of the year.
Wednesday and Thursday. Robert
Edison in THE Cave Man"
Friday. Lyman Howe,s Travel Pic
lures.
Saturday. Frederick Perry in "Doc-
tor Rameau."
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
CHILDREN TO SING CHRISTMAS
Candle In Window Is Sign for Group
n Sfroek Tn SfOn-

Don't forget to place q candle in
your window Christmas eve or Christ
mas night, If you would hear the chill
dren sing.
Scores of little children will pass
through the streets Of Columbia on
those nights from to 8 o'clock, sing
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Two very desirable. large rooms,
connecting. parlor floor. attractively
furnished, electric lights, furnace
heat. hot bath, suitable for two or
three bachelors. Business men pre-
ferred. Location unsurpassed. Ap-
ply at once at go Locust street
Phone 1876. Sip.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Room and Board Southeast room
at 507 Hit street, opposite Horticul-
ture Building. Phone 1275-Green.
". 81.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

For Rent-Two furnished rooms in
modern house at 1406 East Broadway.
Phone 602-Red. W. 81 tt.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

That classic of the Helpful Hints
to Housewives" column, the packing
box. has again come forth, not as
hatbox or shoebox or a trunk or
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Wanted-Two quiet young men to
occupy nicely furnished front room in
quiet resident home; fireplace (fuel
furnished) and built-in bookcases.
May sleep either In room or in cool
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

For Rent:-Northeast room-heats
well-$10. 400 Matthews. b. 77-tf.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

One nice room. hot and cold water,
steam heat and Hight. Call or Phone
"A, w. B. Novel;. IN. 84.)
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Wanted-Three or four unfurnished
rooms In modern house for light
housekeeping. Ls4
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

between the Missouri Store and the
ri Beta Phi house, containing one S.
bill and two 81 bills and some cur
rency. Reward If returned to this Of
fee. 79tf.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
AT THE THEATERS
THIS WEEK



Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday
the Owanda-Prince trio in singing
and talking act Archer and Carr.
comedy singing and talking.
Thursday, Friday and Saturday the
Davis Castle trio in q singing act.
Walsh and Fink, comedy singing and
talking.
Monday night Shadows Of the
Past" in four reels featuring Marc
McDermott and Mabel Trunnell.
Tuesday. "The Money Master" in
four parts featuring Frank Sheridan.
Thursday. "The Harvest" in three
parts featuring Louise Vale.
Friday, "west Wind" in three parts
featuring Darwin Karr.
Saturday, The Guilt" in three
parts.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Wanted-Two quiet girls for nice
sunny room. Add. e. in care Mis-
sourian. Rs0
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

For Rent:-Room for two girls with
table board diagonally across from
Missouri Store. M. 90
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
Brosdmy Odeon.

Monday. THE Queen Of Jungle
Land" featuring Edith Sterling, Lula
Warrenton and Sherman cambridge.
Tuesday. "A Bath House Tragedy"
featuring Peggy Pearce and Deck
Smith.
Thursday "The Broken Coin." also
Jane Novak and Frank McQuarrie In
the kiss Of Dishonor."
Friday. "Under New Management" "
featuring Gertrude Selby and Roy
Grifith.
Saturday. "The Girl of the Dance
Hail." featuring Agnes Vernon and
Holcomb Blevins.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Lost:-A large cameo pin the day
Of the game, between Rollins Field and
317 South Fifth. Return to Mrs.
George Kehr at above address and re-
ceive reward. X. rs tt.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

VIII the gentleman who borrowed
the umbrella from me in the north
stand at the X. U. game please re-
turn to sos Sanford. B. Is tt.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Lost:-Silver wrist watch. Jac-
cards on face. Reward for return to
Missourian Office. B. "A tt.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
ROOMS FOR RENT

For ent:-Nice large front room
near Cafeteria for boys. SOC s. 5th St.
J. 81.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
sleeping apartment: within easy dis.
lance Of University. Address M
care University Missourian. 7stf

For Rent-South room nicely fur
0ished, 301 College. Ess
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
ROOM AND BOARD

Home surroundings for students re-
naming in Columbia during the holi-
days. Home cooking and Christmas
cheer in private residence close in.
Enquire Alpha at this ofiice. B. 81 IT,
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE.
As acre tracks ON East Walnut
street, $1,000 each.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05
MISCELLANEOUS

Dancing lessons taught privately at
709 Hit st. 75c per lesson. Phone
1125-White. CITIES.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

COI1Hbla Tkeafor.
Monday and Tuesday, Kathlyn Will
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

Lost:-Kappa Alpha pin on Broad
way. Return to Stephens College.
w. "A tt.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

For Rent-Residence, furnished or
unfurnished. modern. hot water heat.
Barn. lis Paris Road. Phone 1862
Red or 6S3. D66tf.
University Missourian., 1915-12-05

room house on Moores Boulevard.
lot 50-150, $1,000.
The Leon reporter. (Leon, Iowa) 1887-1930, 1915-10-14
Nineteen Dry States.

When South Carolina voted "dry'
she was the nineteenth state to enter
the dry column. The other arid
states are: Washington, Oregon, Ida
no, Arizona, Colorado, Kansas, Okla
homa, Iowa, North Dakota, Tennes-
see, Arkansas, Alabama, Georgia,
North Carolina, Virginia, West Vir-
ginia, Maine, Mississippi. The total
population of the dry states is H.
344,043. The population of the TWEEN
ty-nine wet states is 64,628,223, &C
cording to the 1910 census. Ohio is
the only state to vote this fall on
state wide prohibition. The state wide
prohibition amendment voted on in
1914 lost by majority of nearly one
hundred thousand, and the county
option law was repealed by about
Twelve thousand majority. In addi-
ton to the state wide prohibition
the people of Ohio will
vote on an amendment which will pre-
vent a measure voted down twice in
succession from being brought up
again for six years.