The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-16
ny ELEANOR HoYT BRAINERD.
YHEN a first class Fifth ave-

\A/ nue. house advertiSes hoop
Wv skirts 1t is time for even the
ults1 conservative woman to
put +. sew R%at'ers into her skirt.
The advcrus,>.icnt has appeared. SO
have the gathers. There are stu
protests. still women who Insist that
they never. Eve will he slaves"
but the ma jority seec,n to have gone
over to the new silhoue,tes with res
ignation. even with enthusiasm.
Paris likes tho new modes. New
York is learning to like them. The
skirt that seemed cNaggcratedly full
in March looks conservative in May.
and latest models from famous design
crs are quite as full, often fuller
than those of the early openings.
Bands of horsehair are freely used
for spreading skirts, and the more
radical reeds run In around the skirt
between shirrings are no longer en-
ceptional. while pe~tticoats ruffied and
bouffant and quite sturdy enough
to hold out the skirts worn over them
are plentiful in all the shops.
That women will actually revert
To the old fashioned h%oopskirt even
the credulous can hardly believe. and
the less extreme hoopskirt of the re-
cent advertisement may not find ready
sale: hut many "A skirt wild enough
to belong in the summer outfit of a
civil war time belle will he Haunted
bravely along this summers ways.
Some Of the very recent variations
upon the theme are delectable enough
10 soften the most severe prejudice
--.l... bIttaptr. sI,,,, f,iIa Thnra
IL. for instance. in a certain Fifth ave-
nue. shoop an afternoon frock which
would make more han n kind of
hutter in any summer crowd.
It's skirt. which swells u almost
70 hoopskirt dimensions, is of the
sheerest organdie and is ~festooned with
many narrow, overlapping ruffies up
almost to the hip line. Not a touch
Of trimming. just the sheer white
fufiness. crisp and cool and delight
fully feminine. OVER this skirt is worn.
surprisingly enough. a little coat OF
dark blue %taffeta, nipped in at the
waist. finishing in a full short peplum
frill below the waist, showing a tiny
white vest that narrows as 1t asccnds
until II disappears where il meets @
nat collar of white. The short,
slightly belllng sleeves have little
frills of white. A frock almost any
one could copy successfully. but that
only an artist would design.
Delightful things are done with
ruffies and frills this season. The
irregular bottoms OF the wide skirts
offer ample opportunity for individual
treatment of this sort. and frilliness
goes well with the general outline and
the summe stuffs. Even below dsrk
or bright colored and widely haring
overskirts Of silk or linen or e
wool one often catches n glimpse OF
white underskirt frills vaguely remi'
niscent of pantaletfes. and MANY over
skirts running up at the sides un
cover soft white fri.ls. Sometime
these same long front and back anc
short side skirts uncover only ankle
at the sides and are themsnlve'
trimmed in frills or built up entirel.
Of deep overlapping ~fiounces.
A costume in which a erandmothe'
Of the present generation might hav'
made afternoon visits and which wa
interesting rather than beautiful
though authoritatively sponsored. ha
one Of these pointed front and hacl
and short side skirts in blue and greer
plaid silk, the two founces and tn
overskirt all being very sharpl,
pointed and shaped to fare widely
Over this plaid Skin; fell a mantle q
plain dark blue silk. cut 10 flare a
widely as the skirt fiounces and no
much more than waist length at tn
sides, but running down in a lon
point in front. This mantle was line
and faced with plaid silk. n
quaintcr model has no been shown |
this season of things best describe
by that overworked adjective.
Even the June wedding gowns ma
he fiounced. and though the traditiono
slim silhouette In association with
veil has firm artistic foundation. shoI
frocks OF faring skirts and founce
nave been prepared for some of I'll
seasons brides. and the wedding vel
shortened accordingly. Only a piquar
and pretty bride should dare the RI
volt. but cleverly worn the arrange
ment has its merit.
In nets and laces soft ruf1es ri
into all sorts of vagaries. being so
enough not to interfere too RADICAL
with the general outlines. but eve
in crisper stuffs they are daring. Oh
In quite used by now TO seeing the
standing on their heads. since u
frill set on INSIDE down was launcht
at the spring openings and has bee
very considerably used, especially I
Paquin, who. not content wi
tops%yturvydom. likes to a,low II
frlll to turn down naturally here Ar
there around a skirt bottom, formir
irregular points. It is quite possib
too. il the frock is of %taffeta, that Il
upturned part Of the frill will show
lining of contrasting color and tn
it's edges will be lightly fringed.
Edges bound in contrasting color
in self folds are liked, and every so
Of pointed and scalloped and battl
mented edge is made use Of by the d
slgners.
Accordion plating. though not
perfectly IN line with the trend Of SIX
modes as the more bouffant frills al
~founces, is much used for more co
sentative effects and offers a gracef
way Of attaining great skirt leng
without an aggressive spread. \
accordion plated skirt with some sc
of shallow hip yoke and 50 cut that
does swing out n little toward the be
tom is good in any heavy crepe
soft heavy silk. and in white such
separate skirt Is a useful thinE I
wear with net. crepe Georgette a
othar shper b'nnspS or IN may he col