The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-23

II is always a difficult problem. that
separate coat for summer wear. Motor
coats. sports coats. evening coats are
easily found; but the dressy separate
coat for afternoon wear and the smart
separate coat for street wear seem to
puzzle the designers when the summer
season comes round.
This year the modes are propitious
however. The new frocks suggest
coat possibilities, consort amicably
with coats and "moules' OF many
types, and the radical change in sill
houette gives to the coat designers
more latitude for variety and original
ity than they have had in many day
That the opportunity is appreciated
the food Of picturesque coat models
pouring from both foreign and do
nestle sources proves.
Some Of these models are fantastic
az are some OF the new frocks. Many
Of them are picturesque to a degree
that would have given the average
woman pause early in the season. but
very large percentage OF them have
pqusncy and charm.
me can find conservative coats Of
course; but outside the province OF
the severely tailored travel, motor and
street coats conservatism, as we have
known conservatism. Is not greatly in
evidence.
The silk coat is the thing, and the
ELK coat Is a,coat OF rampant fulness.
Of faring width. OF exaggerated ruches
and collars and fiounces.
At its smartest 1t Is likely to be in
taffeta or faille; yet the designers
have been wise enough to temper the
sudacty OF line. in many cases by
e<ing the old favorite charmeuse or
other soft satin which. even at its
fullest insists upon dropping instead
IT flaring. II is in this concession that
the conservative will find comfort. and
a combination Of modishness with re-
serve: but II must be admitted that
the best looking Of the satin coats are
rather for evening use than for after
noon wear, and that, for chic after
noon toilet. taffeta is given first place.
Some handsome dark blue satin
coats are an exception to this ruling:
yet even they look old instead OF
properly frivolous and will be more
i.key to appeal to the elderly matron
IMAM to youth or near youth.
As a matter Of fact the silk coat
of The season has a pronounced ten
dency toward looking old" The full.
msntlelike lines are responsible ror
this and the only way to offset the
note is to exaggerate the lines almost
TO the point OF absurdity--to make the
coats so daring that only youth could
take the dare.
Hence the extremes Of the coat
season. Many women will delight in
them, but others will sigh for the
Gays when straight swathed or cling
Ing coats topped straight cling ne
irocks and II was not nearly so dim
cult to be consistently modish as IL
is this season.
There's the trying thing about this
summers fashions. Once departed
from the old no half way measures are
possible. With the very new coat
there must be the ultra new frock. the
ultra new hat. To he In the picture
one must he entirely in the picture or
look extraordinarily absurd. To be
sure one may look extraordinarily
ehsurd even when completely a Ia
Uode from top to toe, but there Is
nodish absurdity and there Is alb
furdlty that does not achieve modish-
ress, and between the two the average
feminine mind conceives a great gulf.
GENERALLY speaking the smart silk
coats of the season are Of two types.
the capelike or. TO speak more ac-
curateiy, mantlelike type. and the
slaughter line, widely flowing type,
In the matter Of length there 10
considerable diversity. Three-quar-
ter length and half length are both
much in evidence, but the bottom line
is often very irregular.
Many shorter coats OF silk are ap-
rearlng, too. quite as full as the longer
ones, quite as narrow OF shoulder
and high Of ruche or collar, but as a
rue distinctly more youthful in air
II not more graceful.
Occasionally among these short
coats one sees a model very graceful
as well as chic. A little fun, slightly
draped mantle OF bright rose char
meuse was a case in point. II had
snort very full cape, but side and
front displayed an embryonic kimono
sleeve. front lines sloping up toward
me bust and draped just the merest
bit to give a graceful flow.
high soft collar in the back.
scar; of matching tulle running under
the collar and ending In very big
'nou nd short wide ends at each
sd" Of the chest, and there one had
a most delectable little summer wrap
that was Enthusiastically of the new
season and yet not too aggress!vely
Of IT,
Snort, very full coats of taffeta in
hack or blue are numerous, and are
sad 10 b. finding ready sale. which
should indicate feminine approval
The model In black taffeta sketched
iof this page is fairly illustrative.
lhoHg details vary greatly and the
ish ruche often supplants the collar.
collar of black or blue velvet--as
N" SIX is black or blue--provcs much
more becoming next the face than The
'dHe'a ruche or any other tafYeta fin
',"' a'f Il is doubtless this considera-
ZION that lads the designers to adj
NJ touch II velvet to so many OF the
coats IN dark color, while the coats OF
,SA' color more often have the silk
IN collar or ruche.
lI.' matter Of the collar or neck
nh'Sh is considered enormously i'm
-" often the cruX OF the design.
'hF' Tor where SO many models are
tP'i'N'mately on the same naring