South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1915-10-27
Paris is Buying
American Fabrics
Broadcloth, Velours and
Velvets Made in This
Country Superior.

II will interest many women 10
know that this year even Paris IS Duy-
ing American fabrics for her suits and
coats. American broadcloths were as
great feature of the Paris openings
as were American velours, and Amer
lean broadclOths are the best In the
world. The velours of this year, too,
are distinctly American products. They
are an Improvement on the duvetynS
first brought out in Paris. As every
buyer OF duyetyn OF the earlier manu-
facture probably knows, it did not give
satisfaction in wear. 1t grew shabby
easily because the construction OF the
goods was wrong. This, however, has
been remedied by an American manu-
facturer who is producing a silk and
wool velour with a silk warp and cash
mere filling which wears threadbare
before il grows shabby. NelVets and
all members Of the corduroy family
are also being used for suits and coats,
and there are many combinations OF
silk and broadcloth. Gabardines and
serges are in vogue, though the latter
will be more popular in the spring.
AS the most popular cOlors, there
are four staple shades, with varia-
tions. Of course. They are African
brown. which is a tone two darker
than the tete de negre of last winter
a rich dark shade Of bottle green:
navy, now known as "crOw blue" and
rich red, which the manufacturers
look upon as a dark horse for spring
Variations are blackberry, darker than
last years prune: taupe shades, one
known as field mouse" and darker
tone called graphite There is also
the new blue, almost wOrn-lOoking in
its grayishness, which does not seem
to be very popular.
No Regulation Length.
Styles are more prolific than cOlors.
Paris, this year, has given so great a
variety Of styles that the only excuse
for any woman dressing like any other
woman in the same community will
be because she has not the courage
Of her convictions. Never was there
such an array of really beautiful
things.
There is no regulation length for
suit coats, for instance. In fact, some
coats have no skirts. or basques. at
all They end at the waist. Others,
again, will have nothing below the
waist in front and long tails in the
back. and Still others are made TO end
at the waist in the back with a skirt
in front draping to a long pompadOur
on the hips behind, which is the very
full skirt, giving 'he appearance of a
coat that is short in front but reach
ing to the bottom OF the skirt in the
~
short in the back and long in front.
But no matter how one finds it, there
is always fullness over the hips where
there is a coat skirt at all, even when
the back and front are straight.
a very beautiful model seen in New
York was of field mouse broadcloth
cut out and stitched on taffeta of the
same shade in a scroll design to SIM
ulate embroidery The skirt was very
full and flaring, and the jacket came
only to the waist all round, and was
caught in the front by a belt effect,
the ends Of the belt being drawn
through buttonhOles and left loose. On
many Of the Jenny models. nearly all
Of which have coats with a short full
flare skirt, buckles are shown on belt
and semi belts The Jenny suits may
almost be picked out by their military
air. a sort OF intangibility of cut Of
coat and swing Of skirt which is un-
mistakable.
The Keynote.
But the keynote of dress this win
ter is the sO-called three-piece suit.
of the redingote family. AS yet only
few of these have been seen out of
France. The popular idea back of
this new note in dress was to meet
the demand for a costume which could
z be worn as a trotting suit and after
noon frOck, being the really truly
three-piece suit with skirt and coat
OF the same material and the waist
made up-in combination with gayer
materials.
The later development Of the redin-
cote family. however, has been
brought out by both Jenny and CallOt.
These have the bodice and skirt, TO
within a quarter from the bottom, of
n material entirely different from the
coat. CallOt has shown some with
the upper three quarters of the dress
Of an entirely different color which. !
except for the ID or 15-inch band at
the bottom of the skirt. makes the
dress look like an evening dress. One
of the Jenny models. which has proved
very popular and is now being made
up by the most conservative of dress /
making establishments, is of brown
broadcloth brown silk and brown in
destructible wolfe. all the same shade,
with a white lace waist.