The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-09-12
ny, ELE,>ou nolr un,i>EnU.

V.TELNET. fIr. chiffon. tulle. mo-
W. talliC and beaded rmhroidcrics
n then more velvet and fur.
~ That is the impression left 10y
a first cutsoiN view of the imported
frOti$ and suits and Coits and of the
modcls put forth 10y the few domestic
designers who can really compete with
the French htiscs.
krnorc careful stGdy of the models
reveals successful use Of many other
msherLals. but when one has gone the
rounds It Is the sUmptuousucss of
relvot and FUR hat fingers most in
sistontly in the memory. Every de-
sigrIGr has had something 10 say in
velvet and fur and. in e large per
ceptage of eases, the something has
been well worth saving. The beauty
of the materials Will give cachet even
TO s.rmodel slightly defective in line:
and, where the lines are lovely as well
as Abe stuffs ana trimmings. results
are calculated to stir enthusiasm.
Perhaps the lovelicst Of the things
IN vvelvct ana iur are the afternoon
coats, long, fun garments of wonder
ful richness that may b" Worn ~
separate coats and Vet are often uC-
coulpanied 10y frocks en- suite. Rus
sian influences are strongly marked
fere, as throughout the whole field of
fashion. for. though We are offered
everything from byzantine to Veto
rian and from Louis Quiu2o To Italian
peasant. Russian lines seem to he
as.popular as they were in ihc days
OF Russian balle,s' first fine fury.
SAnnnttpn.- IL - only Il. ,,l,Y. tlaf
STRIKES the Russian note. More often
1t is. The waist lines. the lowered belt,
the swirlinG tuniC skirt. and the best
OF the long velvet coats ~distinctiycly
Russian achieve great width and
swirl Of skirt bottom without any
hint of huuchincss or stiffness and
without sacrifice Of the straight,
shapciy body lines.
This means extraordinarily clever
shaping and cutting, as does the same
general effect in froch skirts; and the
observer who imagiuCs that the grace
of the soft yet fun skirt bottoms and
the clinging upper skirts are simple OF
attainment should take II Of the really
successful skirts in his hand and study
the detail of its cuttings. II the froCk
is d sheer one of chiffon or tulle OF
other thin, soft stun the skirt may he
ten yards around the bottom. yet i,
gives no sense of exaggerated width
the :fulness mclts away as the skirt
Rstpnds until there is only So.tncSs
and grace without great width.
Velvet. heavy silk ana cloth skirts
are. of course. given n ten yard diam
tter, but some of them do attain
goe.ily width. though the best of them
avoid any stiff flare and many ~ them
tan in lines c~ouscrvaiivcly straight.
In the matter of those long velvet
and fur coats, for instance, the width
at bottom * obtained 10y very clever
shaping of seams and there Is oh
viqusly great width, yet one seldom
;"es anything resembling Persian OF
u ppshHdc fare.
one New York designer who has
bcy6nd shadow ~ doubt. lone as wei
insthts line as any French designer
Of -ibe famous group, has attained
MOST graceful results 10y substituting
Tor the wide fur band, running all
the way around the coat bottom and
necessarily, either cutting down the
with or giving Objectionable bulk
wide bands across back and front sep.
arattd by soft falling side fulness tina
is hardly appreciated saye when the
weaFer is in'motiQn.
Ghe collars of these velvet coats are