The gazette-times. [volume] (Heppner, Or.) 1912-1925, 1915-02-19
Correct Setting
of Fruit Trees

every Spring survive, even through
the first season. The nurserymen get
the big end of the blame for these
losses, when 1t Is more often the fault
OF the party who sets out the trees.
Great care must be exercised in
handling trees that are to be planted.
or set out. The packing should not
be removed from around them till
one is ready to set them out or heel
them IN, as 1t takes but very short
oime Tor exposure to sun and wind
10 ruin the roots. II for any reason
the trees have been unpacked or the
packing seems inefficient, the trees
may be carefully removed and held
In. This is accomplished by placing
the trees on a slightly sloping spot,
a shallow trench being dug for the
roots. Place the trees in thin layers.
covering them well above the roots
with moist earth. A thin cloth or
layer OF straw over the branches for
the first day will furnish protection
from sudden exposure to the sun after
the trees have been confined in the
shade so long.
After Packing Is Removed.
AS soon as the trees are removed
from the packing Tor the ground IL
heeled I'M, they should be trans
terred to a vessel of water, to guard
against the roots becoming dry dur
Ing the process of setting out.
A common wash tub makes a very
suitable vessel for this purpose, as it
can be carried from place to place.
of a oarrel can be arranged on a sled
and hauled with a team, which af-
lords much more room for trees.
sort of thin mud-paste may be used
IN place of the water, and this is fine
as 1t not only dampens the roots well
before being placed in the ground
but. some of the mud will cling to
them and be buried with them at the
time OF setting.
The holes into which trees are to
be set, should be of generous dimen-
slons and put down to good depth
to insure sufficient moisture and am
pie room for root development. The
roots of the trees never should be
bent or doubled up, but should lie
w tuCll lull ltUSIU.
Pruning New Trees.
In placing the trees in the holes.
the roots should be well pruned
especially all bruised or broken ones
being removed. The tops of the
trees also should be pruned back be-
fore being set, the head and root
system being Of practically the same
proportions. Leave from four to six
branches, six to II inches long, on
apple. plum and pear. Prune peach
trees back to the second bud.
The trees should be in the ground
an inch or more above the point at
which they grew in the nursery. Fill
the hole about one-third or one-half
full of fine soil; pack 1t in well
around the tree; pour in from one to
two gallons of water, depending on
the state of the soil. When the
water soaks into the soil (and not
before) finish filling in around the
tree. Press and smooth this last
layer, to prevent the escape of mois-
ture. but do not pack 1t.
1t is important that the trees be
son after setting out.
Often some branch will begin to
wither and die, and such should be
removed as soon as noticed.
The soil usually settles a little
around the trunk of the trees, and
this space should be filled in, else
great damage will be done by the ex-
posure to sun and wind below the
proper point.
A mulch of well-rotted straw or
hay will prove highly beneficial IL
placed around the trees shortly after
they are set out, as it will prevent
the escape of moisture, keep down
weeds and act as fertilizer in pro-
noting rapid, thrifty growth.
Give the Trees Room.
The question of how much space
to leave between the trees is one that
occasions much argument. This
should be regulated largely by cir
cumstances. If the trees are to be
kept well pruned back they may be
as near as four yards apart, while
those which are to be allowed more
free growth in the tops should be at
least 20 feet apart. The question of
distance depends entirely upon the
system Of training and richness of the
soil.
Thorough cultivation is necessary
to develop the peach crop as the tree
during the time of bearing REQUIRES