The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-09-12
VELVETS AND FURS RULE
!" IN THE NEWEST FASHIONS

fects and sheer tunics wired out at
the hip line after the fashion Lucille
has made familiar here. Some of the
Georgette models are delectable.
There's no denying that. but none
of them IL for the woman Of quiet
tastes who dislikes the radical.
II Is not only Georgette who exploits
] Planners. wide hips. draped effects.
Almost every house sponsors models
with these features. though I'm some
collections they are the exception.
There are eve little bustles, soft. I'M
aggressive. formed 10y tucked up
drapery. but affording hustle lines for
all that.
The wide hip line is shown eve by
such co~nversatiNes az Worth and Ore
coll. Worth has a black velvet din
ner gown that is "a case In point. vet
manages To be u typical Worth model.
elegant. dignifed. reserved. Thu
bodice. c~linging and plain front and
back. IL drawn into the figure by folds
AT the sides OF the waist and held there
by rhinestone buckles. Below the
skirt front falls in soft. scant. straight
folds. and the back in a narrow. square
rain. but at the sides the front and
back stand out sharply over the hips,
and below this are open. each side.
jaboting to show a lining OF delicate
pink satin. There In a little Of the
pink about the decollete bodice. but
the shoulders are wide. short sleeves
are OF silver net strung with rhine
stones and gold beads.
In some cases hip width il given
merely by full outstanding peplums
or bodice or short coat In others the
sides Of the fun skirt or tunic are
looped up ut the hip line so hat the
fold above the lacking stands ont in
frill fashion.
This revival Of pannier draperies
and the ~reappearance Of the tunic In
various forms are among the sur
prises. although the late winter models
might we'll have prepared ny for such
events. The Cuirasse bodice. which
suggests the basque recently defunct.
though with n difference. IL another
III h surprises. and Georgette IL its
most enthusiastic promoter.
Almost all Of the importers have
brought over her Cuirasse model.
whose long. snugly. yet easily fitted
waist is formed entirely Of horizontal
lines of putting. This long bodice.
coming well down over the hips and
finished by n short. fun skirt. headed.
perhaps, by a soft. deep fiaring frill.
Is not to he worn 10y every figure.
is not even lovely on "a figure slender
and graceful, but II has been much
admired for some reason OF another.
A good many of the new tunic
models have TUNES only aroun part
OF the skirt. at back or front or sides.
and irregular lines. in n form or
another. have very largely supplanted
the straight unbroken skirt lines Of
the spring.
\ modish brown velvet which IL
Illustrated in u large group has a full.
plated tunic in the back above AN
I underskirt horizontally tucked. while
the front Of the skirt Is unbroken save
10y "a wide band OF fur about a foot
above the hem. The velve bodice ex-
ends Just n little below the normal
waist line and fits snugly. being held
in at the waist across the front by IA
velvet belt. Around the neck IL "A
curious collar composed Of a high band
uf fur To whose lower edge is at
taChed a deep frill of velvet. The
frill IL headed by a cord OF velvet,
which ties on each side OF the front.
the ends being finished by balls Of fur.
Another brown velvet model has IA
belted bodice with short peplum and
a skirt plain in front, but with three
shaped %iounces set at intervals down
the sides, the flare of the tiounces re-
peated in the flare Of the peplum sides.
This model has an odd. plain. little
yestee and high, tight. choker collar Of
fur. As we have said before, comfort
has nothing To do with fashion, but IL
il TO be doubted whether the close