The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1915-08-13

on the market since July and the
people who copy each acceptable
fashion in large qualities are already
at work. Soon the shops will offer
them as the first and most authorita-
tive ideas in winter fashions Whether
or not they prove to be all that their
agents claim for them is a doubt that
will not deter hundreds of women
from buying them, because they are at
hand and fall clothes are always need
ed as soon as the first chill makes its
appearance, except by those lucky
ones who always find a suit or frock
left over from the preceding season,
which happens to fill the first neces-
sity.
There is a strong tendency in each
of the fashions that are advanced as
forerunners of what is to come in
October toward flattened hips For
the last few months we have grown
quite large in that spot; we have
avoided any appearance of slimness
and given ourselves over to gathers
and plaits at the waist line. This
fashion was deplored by all but the
excessively slender, yet as all the
models called for a certain amount
of fullness from waist to ankles there
seemed no other way to arrive at 1t
except through wide circular skirt,
cut to which the majority of women
objected
The latter method of cutting the
skirt. however, is the one that is adj
vanced today and the unevenness OF
the hem. which is sure to result, is
offset by accentuating it and using
cord or plating as an edge.
To quiet the rebellion against this
Der of women the Spanish tlounce has
been revived on all kinds of skirts,
or rather on skirts made of various
materials. Organdie, broadcloth, CAB
erdine, velvet, batiste mad satin are
| the fabrics that show this deep ruffle;
it gives the necessary fullness at the
knees without increasing the girth
around the hips. I
1t may not matter very much how
one achieves that line of slimness at
the hips and width at the ankles; the
main thing is to be we'll assured of
the silhouette and then work it out
through any channel one desires. 1t
is in just this divergence of method
makers have a chance, of success
There is silver lining to the cloud of
full skirts if these individual treat
ments are welcomed especially will
the incoming of the deep fiounce with
| the smooth hip line please the women
who have looked unpleasantly abnor-
NAL in the skirts that were gathered
/, about the waist.
AS to the frankly circular skirt
which is growing in favor among
those who decide on the fashions,
there is a silver cloud to it also. A
band of some kind of opposing fab
ric is dropped below the uneven edge
of the hem which frames it in, or
rather gives it straight selvedge.
| The introduction of this redeeming
feature has turned encouragement
| into optimism. 1t may be possible,
after all, say many, to wear circu-
lar skirt with confidence in its be-
havior, something that has been inn
possible since circular skirts were in
vented.
In the prevailing taffeta frocks that
will be worn without coats on warm
days and with them on chill days, the
skirts are scalloped, not unduly, the
edges corded and the uneven line
held together by five-inch band of
double net which is slightly gathered
and steadied ON its lower edge by a
thick cord of the taffeta.
If you are not familiar with this
method of finishing an uneven skirt
hem it is quite worth your while to
try it. The effect is good because
the skirt has the appearance of be-
ing actually finished; the ragged edge
does not always give this.
Copyright, 1915. by the Mcclure Newspa-
per Syndicatel