Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03

to the hustle effect in some way. Near.
w all the great houses show at ieaSt
one gown in which the material Is
caught up high at the back below the
waistline This does not give the So
called 1880 effect as much as 1t gives
the Vatican effect of a Bourbon period.
Many of these evening frocks look as
If they had been designed for one OF
Mozart's operas.
1t is this kind of drapery. this loop
ing and punching. this gay garlandlng
with roses, that gives to the new
clothes that marked air OF IrlVoIts
which is not in keeping with the serl-
BUSINESS of the times. 1t seems strange
to try to turn women into lot OF
sheperdnesses when most of them are
yearning to wear the brassard OF a
Red Cross nurse on their arm. 1t has
been said, however. Of the women OF
the later Bourbon periods that tney
knew of the sword hanging over their
heads, and INDUCED in frivolity and
caprice to forget it; that they wore
masaues in order that the world might
not see their apprehensive terror
France. certainly. had no heart s,; TINS
able Vatican women. but she might
have done so to save herself from con-
tinuous sorrow She knew that the
garments were not to be worn out by
her own people.
All signs, whether Vatican. Geor-
gian, directoire. Girondin. bourbon.
Combine to put simplicity OF the stage
for a time. 1t will be hard to maintain
ones good opinion of ones SELF IN
plain satin froek in the evening. Some
fur and a bit of colored crystal must be
added to bring one into the accepted
picture.
AS for the woman who finds herself
with frocks having really narrow lower
skirts, no matter how voluminous the
tunic, will have either to discard them
There
no semblance of this kind of evening
frock in the first fashions. AS lace
flounces play SO important part, how
ever, in the construction of the new
gowns. hope is offered for happy and
not too laborious Encouragement Of
frock that has not entirely served its
day.
1t is easy to say that the majority Of
coats are long, but that does not give
broad view of their peculiarities. 1t is
difficult to lump the many shapes which
the buyers have brought over into one
period or classify them by one name.
The milliners. for instance. decided that
hats must have high crowns this win
cided. evidently in conclave. that coats
were to be long: after that important
decision each went his or her own wav
and played on the original themes. That
is why one fundamental idea rules. but
there are more than a dozen express
sions of it.
All the coats smack Of those worn
during the French revolution by the
men. The redingote may be. possibly,
a different garment from what Is ac-
copied as revolutionary, but there are
features incorporated in it that are
Girondist. The accepted line is to have
the body part follow the lines of the
figure. and the lower part swing out by
reason of it's cut, but with the excep-
ton of the Russian coats. which will
be excessively popular, there is no evil
dent intention to make the coat form
wide circle about the figure, as did the
minaret tunic. You see. the new Rus
sian adaptations are not taken from the
ing now under the car. They really
look more like those worn by Santa
Claus than anything else.
1t is probable that coats will become
more and more like those worn by
Robespierre as the season advances
capes on the shoulder, but the Russian
idea will hold firm in the lavish usage
of peltry. which was not part of the
fashions in the revolution.
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Cloth and velvet are used for these
long street coats. whether they be the
redingote that reaches to the top Of
the skirt hem or the Robespierre coat
that just clears the knees Faille is
also employed when thescoat is for aft
ernoon wear and trinaned with fur
Silk Is featured TO outdoor wear this
season. although the; average Ameri-
can may not consider 1t sufficiently
warm, it will admirably suit those who
live In the south and southwest; that
should be joyful news to them, for the
tashion makers have nearly always left