davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
New Clothes, New Carriage

how far we have really advanced, in
our sartorial progress. from the days
of 1860, when full, swinging skirts were
properly accompanied by short, mine
ing steps. No; we don't like to mince.
When hobble skirts demand shortened
gait we, haltingly, and after many ac-
cidents, fall into 1t. But as soon as
wide skirts return, our stride length
ems.
We like to minimize the effects Of the
worldwide on fashions. We see a few
gilt buttons, little braiding and many
hats modelled on different military caps,
but on the whole we say that the war
has had little direct result on fashions.
Yet perhaps it is the war that has
actually brought this new figure into
being. Full, short skirts were created
before war was declared-but not be-
fore the feeling for war began: and It
Is said that one Of the strong reasons
influencing their fashion this autumn
in Paris Is that SO many Parisiennes
have to walk. Their automobiles have
been volunteered or requisitioned for
work at the front
So. perhaps, If the war had not been.
short, full skirts would have had no
more vogue than the famous but short
lived lampshade tunic that Poiret in
troduced few years ago.
The full, short skirt is here, how
ever. and with it other style details that
demand upright shoulders and straight
ened back. Don't rest too much con-
fdence in the new corsets; give them
chance by standing up.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

business 1t is to write on dress, to mir
ror accurately the passing show, to put
before the public the whims, the ca
priciousness. the vagaries, the follies.
the intrigue, the high and low finance,
and never-ending movie" called dress.
To these writer's the eminent and I'm
minent Paris fashion show gives ma
terial in a dull moment in that dark
and newsless hour that comes between
sunset and sunrise. when the Septem-
Der fashions are finished. the December
ones have not arrived. the February
openings in Paris are far OF. Then here
comes this windfail. this piece of news
Of the first magnitude. this insistence
on the part Of the great designers
themselves that they will come to this
and show in their own names,
without middlemen, what they have
created. II it turns the tide Of style.
so much the better for every one. ex-
money into a winter outfit.
Taking the idea carried out at Mrs.
Oeirichs' fashion show Of American
gowns In Newport in July. the frocks
will be shown in the guise of playlet;
and that quite delightful and cultivated
Frenchman. Boutet le Monvel, will be
In charge Of the literary part Of 1t.
Roger de Monvel is brother to that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
NEW YORK, November 6. 1915.

NEW YORK, NOVem Der o. 1910.
I'M HE dull season in trade that
follows the excitement of the
autumn openings Is to be
Il charged and stimulated this
month by an electric bolt from Paris.
lit is to do the thing that every one
wondered why it has not done before
havs an opening of its own in America.
Guided and advised by Poiret and
Philippe Ortiz. the syndicate of French
couture which banded itself together
~fter the visit of Poiret and Worth to
this country for the protection of its
original crea lions in dress. has decided
ITO hold a personal fashion show in
America this month.
The major part of the famous dress
makers will assemble at the Ritz Carl
ton first, then on through the country
between the oceans. a set of entirely
new gowns for winter. 1t will be a
show of Importance from every point of
view, and is the most widely discussed
affair, that has happened to American
dressmaking circles.
x y
There are many sides to 1t, each of
which is cause, for heated argument
dress is Of paramount interest. What
will 1t do to the winter trade in clothes
that have beenSbeught at great risk
and broughtto this country by Ameri-
can Arms for home consumption? Will
the models to be shown entirely change
the prevailing styles?- Naturally, that
is the great question of the hour to
those who sell women's apparel.
ho nv h,H
our trade? they also ask. VIII COM
merce be stimulated in December just
when commerce needs galvanizing?
win women ind themselves compelled
to buy new clothes, or will they simply
be dissatisfied with what they have and
say that our buyers did not really bring
over the latest gowns, but left them to
their creators to bring?
The public always pays in the end for
svs sTt and It is, therefore. the
this approaching fashion show by the
greatest efithk French designefs.
The trade Is also asking itself some
questions: Will it be compelled to start
an entirely new season this month? If
these Paris frocks and hats and wraps
strike a new silhouette, q new fashion,
tnaugurate new materials, will they. be
compelled. through policy, to purchase
the models at a high price in order to
copy them? There will be only one
gown of each kind and, therefore, it
can have only one purchaser, whereas
the custom in Paris is to provide as
many copies Of the original as there are
buyers for Il. Over here no. clothes
IRE to be made by the French exhibit
prs. Only the originals will be sold. so
there Is bound to come about rivalry
between the shops and dressmakers for
possession of each frock.
The gowns will not Se delivered until
bitter the fashion show has toured the
country. and 1t 10 quite possible copy
lists of distinction and skill will have
SKINNED the cream OF each style weeks
before the frocks are delivered TO their
nrst purchasers. So the questions in
volyed are not minor. ones. They give
food for thought TO the public and to
the trade. The ones who sit In high
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

onion, tablespoonful Of chopped pars-
ley and salt and pepper to season
Cover closely, and when the liquor
again reaches the boiling point cook
ten minutes, then stir In a cup of milk
to which has been added two table,
spoonfuls of -four and two beaten eggs.
Before adding to the boiling liquid, dip
out a few spoonfuls of the hot broth
and add to the egg. beating all the time.
that 1t may not curdle; then turn into
the pot. Boil up again, add table,
spoonful Of butter. arrange the pieces
Of chicken neatly on q hot platter and
q rice border and dish the fricassee in
pyramidal form inside Of It.
Thanksgiving Mtncemeat.
It Is time. toe. to make the Thanks
giving mincemeat, as It needs at least
a fortnight to ripen. Use for this boiled
or roasted beef or tongue. tart apples
Spitzenbergs or greenings-twice as
much chopped apples as meat. Con-
not unwholesome taken in moderation,
as the combination of beef, fruit and
spice and all finely minced. is both
IL 1t expensive, the quantity below
being quite SUFFICIENT to last nearly all
winter for a good-sized family. The
suet in mince pies should be chopped as
finely as possible. One-third butter and
two-thirds suet gives a better favor
than suet alone. The beef should be
cooked all day until perfectly tender.
anil the stock in which 1t is cooked re-
duced to a tellylike consistency. Cool
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

at dozens of fashion shows. held at
shops and theaters since October ar
rived.
Some of the best designs are just
is one. The Callot straight silhouette
for evening is another. The Worth
trains are another, the collar cape as
a rival to the coachman's collar of fur
of colored velvet as a substitute to
the position hat Of panne plush.
Each Of these contending styles was
launched at the openings. but a few,
notably those mentioned, went imme-
|diate1y to the vanguard. They leaped to
popular fame as early as the middle of
September, and in two weeks they were
selling at any price, in any quality Of
IA brio. and were worn well and badly
by a host of women.
One does not care how soon the al
most brimless, hfgh-crowned sailor hat
goes out, for it is SO unbecoming to
the majority, and they are the ones
who wear 1t. Why they could not have
who had the features to stand 1t. Is
one of those puzzles that cause despair
among those who had come to believe
that America was on the upward trend
in the matter Of choosing and posing
hats.
Well. happily. the wide-brimmed
shape of velvet and silk beaver, with
a moderately low crown, is shown by
all the houses now, ana provinces a
way out for those who have been on
the edge of disbursement. The black
velvet sailor, with an extra wide and
irregular brin, on which are plastered
brilliant flowers done in crewel or silk,
is featured, and, although 1t has at
tanned an unusual degree of popular
ity, 1t seems able to stand 1t without
deteriorating.
Tho buf1t-up turban in garnet and
kings blue velvet, with a bit Of metal
lace or a skillfully colored rose. is be-
ing widely taken up by those who will
not wear the high crown in any other
manner; the softness of the material
and the careful and artistic building
of one line on another until a pyramid
Is reached, has none of the sharp ag-
gressiveness Of the Reboux sailor.
There Is real position hat coming
| into being whose wide, curling brim
| quite offsets It's Incorporating crown.
1t gives softness to a face. and the
new fashion of employing soft plush
for it in neutral color and putting
about it a band of brilliantly colored
ribbon will meet, undoubtedly, with ap-
prevail. One of the ultra-smart mil
liners here has featured the genuine
position that was worn by women of
another day. and. although it's remark
ably high crown of beaver colored
plush. wrapped with scarf of Natter
blue that floats to the waist, is not
sufficiently subdued for this genera
ton, it may be that 1t points the way
to spring.
AS early as last June we knew that
the long. aI-covering garment known
h 1irocY rot ND fhA Nnln oton
being featured by Cheruit and Jenny.
And Worth's house also insisted on
the redingote frock that had no waist
line and served the double purpose of
coat and outdoor gown. Under the
dominating idea of the American that
only coat and skirt with blouse
should be worn on the street (and too
often in the house for beauty and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
1T does not take exceptional insight

TT does not take exceptional insight
to see that the clothes Of this win
ter demand a new figure. The
curved body that wore the graceful
folds Of clinging drapery that formed
our frocks a couple Of years ago does
not wear to advantage the short-skirt-
ed, tight-waisted. faring frock Of to-
day. No. with the requirement Of our
new supply of frocks We must acquire
a new figure.
Now the new corset is, Of course. es-
sential to the good fit Of the new frock.
But the new corset is not everything.
1t helps to mold the figure. it gives the
right proportion to the hips, 1t en-
phasizes the slimness Of the waist. But
the new corset must be worn with in
telligence. The debutante-slouch figure
must be discarded. with all its attri-
butes. And to wear the new corset prop
erly the figure must first be straight
ened out bit.
The new frocks do not demand the
old sort of uprightness that came into
fashion just about the time that the
Gibson girl arrived. But they do de-
mand well held shoulders, a rather
straight back and such carriage that
an easy, swinging gait Is possible. For
a mincing step with our wide skirts
would be decidedly out of place. accord
ing to our modern notions. This shows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
VARIED FASHIONS OF SEASON
no different and variable are things
y to wear at present that It Is moro

no different and variable are things
~ to wear at present that It Is moro
than puszling to know what to
select when ordering ones winter
wardrobe. Shall 1t be bustles or hoop
skirts. basques or princess >frocks. long
coats or short, mutton-leg sleeves. puff
fed sleeves or no sleeve at all?
Some Of the skirts on evening dresses
are made with several rufnes and cords
and shirrings at the bottom to give to
the skirt the effect Of being distended
by a veritable hoop.
Some bustles are merely dainty. CO.
quettish bit Of drapery. but others go
back to the days OF 1880. without the
bone and wire framework which dis
tended the drapery Of those days One
pretty hustle effect is accomplished by
means of rosebuds used to tuck up the
skirt. forming in this way pretty bus
tie. Other skirts arc pulled out in the
back just SO much and no more. and
trimmed with velvet and lace.
Bodices and basQues are short and
quantity fiat, and the waist line Is
placed a little high to wear with the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

short skirt. Basques of black velvet
are worn over skirts of silk or lace,
velvet trimmed. Taneta basques, low
cut and sleeveless, or with very short
sleeves, are worn with evening frocks
A three-piece frock of velvet has the
blouse and top of the skirt of silk, sat
in or lace, while the Jacket and the
lower part of the skirt are made of vel
vet. Frocks OF tulle and chiffon trim
med with quillings. ruff1es and rosettes
of silk and cloth are very popular for
young girls.
Nets are being used very much this
season. and they are black, white and
colored. While there are a great many
pastel shades among these nets. as well
as many dark shades, they are not only
used for evening gowns. but also for
afternoon costumes. The evening col
ors are beautiful. and some very charm
ing gowns are made Of three or four
different oolors laid over the other.
Plain nets are trimmed with bands of
spangled Jet and tinsel lace or velvet
ribbon.
A wide-brimmed sailor hat has the
upper part Of the brim Of white felt, the
under brim faced with black velvet,
and the plain stiff crown of black hat
ter's plush trimmed with a narrow
band Of black grosgrain ribbon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

economy's sake), the first showing Of
these one-piece garments did not catch
hold as the buyers expected they would.
Now the tide has turned. The shops
say that the long redingote which
covers a multitude of sartorial sins
beneath IL coming into It's own. It Is
worn over a separate skirt with a
white blouse. also over the most for
NAL Of afternoon frocks of silk, velvet
and chiffon. Many Of the French de-
ton with these redingotes. which can
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

wearing a severe street suit, yet, when
the coat is removed, the garnet band Is
only considered as a frame of deep
color to bring together the various
parts of the frock.
OF course, one need not buy the whole
costume, nor need one have a garnet
coat, a color that is growing into more
prominence as the weeks go on; the
idea has been copied. for instance, In
warm beige velour with a cape collar
and slender cuffs Of skunk. This Is
intended to cover several gowns that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

be ordered at the same time, making
a complete costume.
X
With a deep garnet-velvet redingote,
for instance. by Cheruit. there is an
elaborate chiffon frock in beige color,
which has a four-inch hem of the vel
vet to match the coat This hem subtly
gives the impression, when 1t Is COM
bined with the redingote. that one is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
Fig and Apple Salad.

EOUR apples, one dozen steamed dgs,
three-fourths of a cup Of boiled
salad dressing. To steam the figs, ar
range in a colander and place over .
kettle of boiling water. Cover and
steam until tender. Remove from the
fire and when cold cut into small pieces.
Pare, core and quarter the apples and
cut into small cubelike pieces MIX the
apples and figs with the dressing and
serve in little glass cups or on individ-
ual plates garnished with nasturtium
leaves or lettuce.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

IN LAID velvet and silk are used for
~ collars and cuffs on many autumn
coats and suits. This plaid gives
just the needed touch Of color to a dark
suit.
White is a fashionable color for hats
and furs, and there are some very
smart sets Of four pieces-eoiiar; mum s,iI
satin and velvet.
The very round, melon -shaped NUTS
are especially effective in white tailless
ermine.
There is always q charm about the
combination Of fur with any very sheer
fabric. So the new net sleeves that
have cuffs Of fur are very attractive:
One of these sleeves 10 very long, and
flares SO that it is wide at the wrist
There 1t is finished in q wide band OF
fur.
Tassels are in fashion and they are
used at the ankles Of the trouser
frocks.
A big square veil to wear over the
hat. falling on the shoulders. IL made
Of Arm brown net. It 10 bordered with
a wide hem Of chiffon and about half
an inch inside the hem is q band OF
quarter-inch gold braid.
White satin slippers, embroidered
with dull white beads. are worn Tor
evening.
Some of the new black spats show q
thread line Of white up the back and
front seams.
An evening coat or yellow velvet IL
shocked with heavy yellow rope silk
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
I olives) hard-boiled eggs sliced and let
tuce.
Miss Parloa's Cream Of Celery Soup.

tUC6.
Miss Parloa's Cream Of Celery Soup.
Do not use the green outermost stalks
Of celery, but those partially blanched.
Wash and scrape and when you have
the equivalent Of two stalks cut in
inch pieces using a few Of tho finest
leaves Cover with quart Of water
and white stock and cook slowly for
three quarters of an hour. When ton
der press through PURGE sieve. add
quart of hot milk. and when 1t reaches
blespoonfuls of flour blended with the
same amount Of butter. Stir constantly
until the soup Is smooth and creamy,
add a tablespoonful Of minced parsley
and serve with crisped crackers or
bread croutons.
English Chutney Sauce.
This Is nice to get made before the
frost has nipped tho green tomatoes
that the thoughtful wife picks from
her vines in late October or early No
vember and lays on the shelf in the cell
lar. Remove the seeds from four green
peppers and two cups of raisins, add
twelve green tomatoes and eight small
onions and chop very fine. Put two
quarts of vinegar on to boil with four
cups of brown sugar and two cups Of
powdered sugar. four. tablespoonfuls
each mustard seed, salt and four scant
teaspoonfuls of cloves. When 1t reaches
the scalding point. add the chopped
add and boil for an hour. Fine to go
with cold meats.
Celery.
Use only the tender, inner stalks for
eating raw. The hard outside pieces
can be utilized with distinct advantage
in soups. as a vegetable or as a season
ing. Be sure and save the enlarged root
in separating the stalks. cutting right
down through 1t and leaving attached
to the stalks in tender pieces. Wash
well, then crisp by folding in a damp
napkin and laying on the ice until ready
to serve.
Ornamental Celery.
If desired to serve as a garnish or
make more decorative. cut the stalks
into three or four inch lengths and split
each piece nearly to the end. Cover
with cold water for eight or ten hours,
when the celery stalks will curl up In
teathery shapes, very pretty to look at.
Chicken Fricassee, White.
Draw, SINCE and thoroughly wash .
fowl, which need not be as tender as
for roasting. Cut into Joints and lay
the pieces in salt and wster for twenty
minutes. Put into q stew pan with q few
pieces Of fat salt pork. cut into strips.
Pour on cold water to cover. put on the
lid OF the pan. and let the contents
come very slowly to q boil. Simmer
gently for an hour or longer until ten
der. The time required depends upon
the age Of the fowl and may range
from an hour to four hours. The cook
fast, tho meat shrinks and toughens.
When nearly tender add . minced
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
Baked Bean Salad.

mEEL and slice fine, eight small
onions. pour cold water over them
and press hard with the hands to
remove the strong taste. Drain well
and put In the salad bowl with three
cups cold baked beans. Toss lightly,
odd a teaspoonful of salt. half tea
spoonful OF pepper. two tablespoonfuls
bf salad oil, a teaspoonful of white
sugar and small cup Of vinegar. Mix.
Earnish with olives (green or the ripe
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07
Delicious Marmalade.

OK ounces. one peck Of sour apples.
~ two quarts of cranberries. Boil all
together. stirring. and add sugar. cup
by cup. This pulp makes excellent
marma1ade. ..,,,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

Wondering eded Showing French Costumes Will
n Change He-Redge and Costume Dubbed Commuters Delight
New Gowns Straight
Certain Ag1he Fashion Questions Great
tnce-The ReaPo
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-11-07

over night and take off the fat before
mincing. Fruit juices, even those that
have begun to ferment, may be used In
mincemeat, as the alcohol evaporates in
the cooking.
Allow to three pounds of chopped
meat, SIX pounds of coarsely chopped
apples, two-thirds of a. pound of butter,
one and one-third pounds of suet, four
raisins. three pounds of currants
washed and dried, three pints of sweet
cider. three pints of boiled cider, one
quart of stock. six heaping teaspoon
cloves. two tablespoonfuls of salt, one
pint of molasses. one teaspoonful of
pepper. half a pound of shredded citron.
the same quantity Of candied lemon
half Of jelly or juice of preserves.
Boil about half an hour, just long
enough to thoroughly scald. and pack
In stone Jars or glass cans. Set away
the pies. scatter a few fresh raisins
over the top of each pie. and If not
quite moist enough. add little more
cider or fruit juice, cold tea or coffee.
Cider Jelly.
Boil sweet cider fresh from the press
until 1t jellies. It will not require any
sugar. This will be found useful in the
winter to give flavor to insipid fruits:
use in cake filings, buildings and
sauces.
Cider Jelly English Fashion.
Soak two ounces Of. gelatine in just
enough cold water to cover for two
hours. Put two and half pints of cider
in a kettle over the fire. and when 1t
reaches the boiling point pour over
the gelatine. Add two cups of sugar,
stir until dissolved, then strain through
a cloth into a mold. Set on the ice un-
serving time and garnish with sweet
biscuit and whipped cream.
Mulled Cider.
This is an excellent bedtime drink
when one feels that he has taken cold
or just after coming in from wetting
in the storm. Pound half an ounce Of
stick cinnamon and ten or twelve cloves
until bruised. Put into saucepan with
half grated nutmeg, cover with a
half pint of boiling water and infuse
on the back of the stove for fifteen
minutes. Strain, add sugar to taste
and stir into pint of hot cider.
Ounces With Cider and Molasses.
Pare and halve the ounces, removing
the cores. Boil these in sweet cider
until tender. then strain. For five
pounds of ounces take a quart Of nice
molasses. a pound of brown sugar and
the cider in which the ounce parings
have been cooked. Add the whites of
two eggs. bring to a boil. remove from
the fire and skim. Continue to boil and
skim until perfectly clear. Then take
off the FIRE, cool. put in the ounces and
boil until tender. If there Is not strip
to cover them full and plenty. add more
cider. Orange peel or a few slips Of
green ginger boiled In the sirup give a
pleasant flavor.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFoRD.