Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-10-21
Plum Color Scars High
In Fashions Favor 90
AReturnTo Normal
Waistline-- Skirts Must
Be Full Though Full
ness Is Sometimes Con.
trolled ByPle eats New
Materials.

nNE does not select what Is
termed an "individual' tailleur
for everyday wear. Any &C.
" centricity or eXaggeration of
style Is apt to become a burden to the
spirit, II one is forced to bear with
It intimately, day in and day out.
through an entire season.
But 1t Is an impoverished wardrobe,
nowadays, that boasts only one tail
pred suit. The modern woman is so
trig and tailor-made, so much does
she depend on we'll tailored raiment
for winter wear, that usually three
suits, at least, are deemed essential
IN planning the new wardrobe for a
season. Some women have half Il
dozen tailleurs. so that taste in color
as we'll as style may be satisfied. There
is, first, the simple. mannish suit for
knockabout wear and for travelling; a
suit Of some fine worsted weave in
mixed effect or neutral coloring, with
braid-bound edges and perhaps a very
little velvet or fur on collar and cuff.
This tailleur must be perfectly cut and
must hang and 1T with exquisite cor
rectness, but it must express service
and simplicity rather than individual
ity. Another suit in the wardrobe will
permit the tailor more latitude for his
fancy. which spells. in combination
with skill and current style; individu-
atty.
Fall Suits Dark In Color.
The new autumn suits are dark in
hue, but they are exceptionally rich
and handsome in tone because of the
beautiful materials used The darker
the color the better the material; is a
wise rule to follow always. White in
almost any material-even twenty-cent
crepe, Is attractive; but there is moth
Ing more atrocious than cheap black.
Between these extremes Of hue the
rule holds good; the darker the color,
the better the material must be. SO
because the autumn suits are dark,
very handsome fabrics must be used
In them, and these fabrics in combl-
nation with velvet and fur trimmings
produce an effect of great richness.
All the plum and Bordeaux shades are
favored by Paris-plum particularly.
Plum has long been yielded by custom
and propriety to tho older woman, and
indeed 1t Is a most becoming shade
with gray hair. But this year the
yOuHeCi "oiicl uiNe plum rs
their very own and one sees it every
where, among the new tailleurs, trim
med with black braid or with fox.
skunk or the lovely beaver fur. A
charming Doucet model of plum coll
ored velvet has just been completed
for an autumn debutante. Think of a
debutante daring to wear puma few
years ago! Her grandmamma would
have demonstrated vigorously at this
assumption by youth of the privilege
OF age. This suit has very short
skirt. full at the waistline but falling
In shallow box pleats at the foot
how the box pleats were managed in
chiffon velvet only Doucet knows! The
coat Is In hip length. gathered at back
and sides into cord that defines a
natural waistline. At the front there
Is a Russian closing at one side, the
double breasted front panel falling
unbelted from neck to hip. The neck
Is cut square across, a very new whim
OF Fashion's. and at either side rises
high. turnover collar of black fur,
CUFFS Of tho fur edge the long. tight