davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08
THE PLUM SHADE AGAIN
1t Is Because Sand Tones Are Ubiquitous That This
Neglected Color Is Hailed by the
ultra" Women
COME Of the smartest trotteur suits
- for the winter are Of the long
nnrlnr.nL nlttr,n ehndn and MANY

o. ONE Of the smartest trotteur suits
y for the winter are of the long
neglected plum shade, and many
OF them show those very salient feat
ures Of this season--the haring, un-
trimmed skirt and the haring three
quarter coat half-belted.
A model which is attracting hatter-
ing comment is gabardne velour. the
dull plum tone Of which is relieved by
raccoon collar and wrist bands. The
circular cut skirt. rather longer than
that of the ordinary trotteur. is so
wide that II falls in full folds from be
low coat which also ripples markedly,
although fitted smoothly about the hips.
Raccoon Fur Trimmings.
The fulness begins to reveal itself
few inches above the waistline at the
back, for that portion of the garment
is cape shaped. It starts from the neck
as huge inverted scallop into the
curves Of which are fitted raglan
sleeves which show their shape definite
" only from the front. Save for the
setting Of the sleeves, straight cut to
the wrists. the front is in Russian
style. single breasted, with large but
tons of plum colored bone, and belted
in with a five-inch broad self-band. also
button fastened. Pointed tabs, extend
ed from Just below the elbows on the
top of the sleeves, button over deep
cuffs widely edged at the wrist with
raccoon. Verify. the pelt collar and
cuff trimmed trotteur suit is fashion
friendly to the girl who is not blessed
with several sets OF small furs
Beaver is tremendously combined
with prune colored charmeuse in a
brides goinG-away costume. So soft
and light is the material that the full
ness of the underdress isnot conspicu-
Gus under a polonaise the irregular
fronts of which cross under an excep-
tionally broad girdle of beaver brown
velvet. At back centre, the girdle joins
under a long self-colored tassel, falling
to the hips over the polonaise.
Part way up the back of the bodice
section the V formed By the edges Of
the split girdle follows seams running
from the waist to the shoulders,
across which runs a beaver band
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08
Mothers Given Little Credit.

NOT infrequently happens that
l he most thoughtful cook will find
necessary 20 "stir up cake
'4s a. the same time she discovers
asr dismay that her cupboard is
''Ilng In one Of the essential ingredi-
~ II she lives too far from the
'e TO 70 out and buy either the
!" fself or the ingredient wanted,
likely TO consider the situation
'0peless unless she has the set Of
Yes which was compiled for the
purpose Of tiding her over such an
'seney by a housewife who herself
Aeed such a dilemma and come
= Victorious.
e without -four may seem an i'm
ability yet the following recipe,
Is no mere experiment. has
so the contrary.
" me whites and yolks Of five
SEPARATELY till very light. Add 20
-, s'iks one eupful Of sugar. the
a.. - md Of half lemon, one table
s. ,a'el Of lemon Juice. and very
A., 'y one eupful Of grated choc-
wat has been thoroughly mixed
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

rented an apartment here that they
might attend this course. They spend
every forenoon during the week in the
little lecture room and in the basement
cooking room of the Y W. c. A.
1--WE have always been interested IN
nursing" one of the young women re-
marked, land this is an excellent
course. OF course, we want TO be pre-
pared 10 help out if we should 20 to
Europe, even though we have made no
definite plans about going"
But Miss Gladys Stout, who was in
Europe when the war broke out and
who returned just two months ago, has
planned to 90 back just as soon as she
finishes her course in March.
wild" to Get to Europe.
~ am just wild to get back" she con-
fessed T-was in Germany and Aus
trja. Switzerland and England while the
war was going on. and helped in each
of those countries. In Austria ! rolled
baadages, and in another country
sewed on shirts. and in England I
helped knit muflers. 1t seems when
one is over there that she just must
do something, even when there is not
much 20 do.
81 really feel that we Americans
aren't needed very much over there,
especially in England. In fact many
of the women who threw open their
homes after they had turned them into
hospitals have waited in vain for the
wounded.
Real Need in Austria
but there is real need for nurses
in Austria. and that is where | shall
20. They have such poor accommo-
cations. and not many trained assist
ants. On one Of the station platforms
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08
MORGAN TREASURES
CHARM BIBLIOPHILES
Sixteen from Great Collectors
Library Now on View at
Charles Galleries.

Sixteen books, selected from among
those that were most treasured By the
late J. Pierpont Morgan, and which
were superbly bound for him by Mar
guerite Lahey, are, with others by the
same binder, attracting much attention
at the galleries Of Charles, OF London.
at Fifth ay. and 56th ST., where they
will remain on exhibition until Janu-
ary Y. The Morgan books were loaned
for the occasion.
Perhaps the most interesting and
valuable Of the collection is one of the
only three copies known Of Morale
Proverbes OF Christine de Pisa the
first book printed in England from the
Caxton Press and said 20 be valued at
$4,000. The binding Of this copy, the
finest of the three, is blind fooled IN
fifteenth century mOnastlc style. An
other of the Morgan books bound by
Miss Lahcy. also in monastic design, IS
The Lytylton Tenores," by Richard
PInson.
An interesting example Of binding Is
shown in the four volumes Of the We
dc Jeanne dare" by Anatole France.
The exterior shows semis OF the
arms oil Jeanne dare and the heur-ce-
lys of Charles VII in the centre; a
medallion with the pennsnt and shield
Of Jeanne dare and the lily and the
thistle. The doubiure is IN bleu dc
France. with the Gothic border and the
Morgan arms IN the centre.
Tooling and designing of the seven
teenth century IN the transition stage
j. shown in a little volume. "Cicero's
Orations," printed IN Amsterdam in
1861. 4 copy Of ia Chronique de
Charles *" by Prosper Merimtc. shows
a semis Of linear design Of tooling and
the heur-de-lys. The exhibition con-
tains thirteen volumes shown by Miss
Lahey and thirteen by Mrs. George
Pratt These last include six volumes
OF etchings by Whistler. bound in Grim
son leyant and inclosed IN crimson
case
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

Wrist cuffs Of the lovely pale brown
fur hold in the fulness of self-colored
chiffon sleeves, and Venice lace fin
ishes the neck, opened almost 10 the
bust line. The topcoat Of scalskin,
drawn on over this creation. is 90
long that it shows only a narrow band
OF the satin skirt. but the contrast be-
tween its purplish shade and the dusky
richness Of the Delt is charming.
Petunia Velvet Tailored Costume.
Flounces on skirts do not invariably
add TO their fitness. A narrow effect
is produced nv the 1ounce on a pc
TUNA velvet tailored costume Al
though the straight cut skirt is ex-
ceptionally wide, its breadth is no
ticeably restrained from a trihe below
the knees By closely shirred-on
fiounce. Thus is provided the fitness
which fashion makers are exploiting
and the restricted space for tho ankles
which many women appear determined
not to abandon.
An artistic and unusual feature Of
this petunia costume belongs to its
postilion-tailed coat. This garment.
broadly belted at the normal waist
with pompadour-fgured velvet, has
side forms, which. starting at the
shoulders outer ends, follow the seams
of the back as far as the top of the
belt. There the material drops over
the girdle and on 20 the hips in loose
folds. Meanwhile the other edge of
the side form having merged with
the sleeves 20 the armpits-runs un-
der them.
The remaining edges, gathered to
small compass, are joined in front 10
simulate cutaway jacket. A high
closed pompadour velvet waistcoat has
a collar rolling high at the nape of the
neck, but lying in fat points at the
sides upon skunk band, attached to
the jacket proper. Fur-bordered POM
padour cuffs turn far backward upon
the rather small sleeves. An interest
ing detail of this costume is the way
in which buttons are made to serve as
weights. Below the waist line Of the
backward edge of the oddly arranged
side forms a row Of self-covered ball
buttons, closely set, holds the over
hanging velvet in the desired position
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

up like my daughter. with servants 20
wait upon them and every pain IN lie
smoothed out for them, need this sort
Of training" Mrs. Nicoll went on.
"They should learn how to do some
thing for some one else, and they
should know and understand some OF
the worlds suffering.
Josephine is taking it all very seri-
ously, and she is proud of her uniform
and her low-heeled shoes. She IS
learning how to cook for invalids, too.
Even if we don't 20 TO Europe to help
nurse the wounded there, she will find
this training very valuable
The Lure of Nursing.
Just what lure nursing possesses Tor
women is hard to determine. Yet there
was never a woman but who has de-
cided at some time in her life TO be
nurse. Women like TO think Of them
selves soothing feyered brows and
smoothing out pillows of pain. And
now that there are hundreds Of thou
sands Of human beings lying wounded
in Europe many women feel that it is
time to play the role Of gentle servi-
tour. The nursing course at the l.
W. c. 4. has always been popular. but
this year is unusually so. All of the
classes are cvercrowded and applica-
,ions for membership are being re-
iected each day.
Esther Cleveland and Chums Attend
Classes.
Miss Esther Cleveland, daughter OF
Grover Cleveland. and her two friends
Miss Elizabeth Grier Hibben' daughter
Of the president Of Princeton Univer-
! sity. and Miss Barbara Armour have
all left their homes in Princeton and
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

nut or winters
" modes this mod
eli has emerged as en-
rodying many of the
accepted smart feat
ures. OF navy blue
French serge, the suit
is not unlike a street
dress. The coat IS
Short-waisted and has
4 naring circular
tunio. Rows OF jet
buttons trim h oth
hack and front of the
Snugly fitting rody
whieh is fitted with A
belt and a high collar,
" bite satin faced.
From llickSon.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

FoR TIiE RtsrAyRANT. THE OPERA. Tar
evenlng RECEPTION sou vi'i hud he choices. sDf
r-5.f ~r-'usl.s Paris creations in simili Diamonds
ard prr.-t f'a,f-a also co. delicious ktquisis Per
0iu.. af IANlfFt. -tl 5fh ave
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

pV ikANN - ENULA-Nb.
11ET role women must play in time
NJ great strife-this interests
L American women in the war Of
..-o,,. They have watched. almost
,.rio.s,v. the great ladies Of the Con
...-. throw open their homes 70 the
-,gnsed. and how even little work
us aid By sewing shirts. And now
a,v. 100. have decided to take hand
ID relieving pain.
p-em;rert society matrons and
sar.ar,es Of New York are foregoing
..s seasons pleasures TO study the
.,,s Of the sick. that they, too, may
n, In q sunny little room at the
"a, o, The Central Branch Of the y.
YEA East 18th St, they assemble
learn how 20 bandage wounds, make
1.s,ard take temperatures. They are
en- ;rbued with the seriousness Of
.s,, work. and they sit in their plain
s.rr,3 bingham uniforms listening at
,,r,jrsly 70 Miss Louise Henderson, the
t.rsd nurse in charge Of the class.
Y. Jules Bache. who sat shyly
ri. because she was a new pupil
u. hadn't her uniform yet, watched
m the wonder eyes Of child the
ro,sss Of bandaeing.
Preparing for Paris.
4 know so little about all this she
r.,pered to her neighbor. "You see.
Ian going 20 Paris soon, and ! shall
ssr, 70 make myself useful. ! have
srlvs wanted 70 know something
ssos. nursing. and it seems that / have
i7ay. been so busy that l couldn't
axe time TO study it. Now that l am
ang abroad I feel that ] must know
g. ! shall get everything / can out
dGis three months course. so that l
bali al least be able TO help the
r1red nurses"
Ter neighbor proved 20 be Mrs. De
lalesy Nieoll. who, self-assured and
apsble appearing in her Bingham uni
:orn, was jo.ting down notes in a big
sl;s notebook. and drawing labyrinth
no diagrams.
I shall probably 20 to Europe soon
a.ause mother lives there, and ! run
iGoss very frequently 70 see her.
Ars. Nieoll whispered back. But /
s- 10. studying nursing for that rea-
,oa particularly. You know ! have been
associated with one Of the day nurser-
Is and have learned a great deal
lsos, caring for the sick there, and l
ave watched carefully over Josephine
vhsn she was ill. ] came because
Esn:ed to corrclate my knowledge and
nd out just how much there is to
SOW.
Mothers Given Little Credit.
And then, 100. think we always
Es 70 have a diploma to state definite
Just what We have acquired. A
bother is rarely given credit for what
ne does know. This was a rather oil
's''on, too. and felt that 1t would be
good plan 70 interest Josephine IN
hs kind Of work. and she gazed hap
'4!t' her red-cheeked young daughter
u'ost the room with her cousin, Miss
A'sy Coleman.
think girls who have been brought
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

Mrs. John +. Alexandra will give
dinner dance al her home. 10 East SD
a.. January 2i. for her debutsnte
daughter. Miss Anna r. Alexandra.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

Marshall Field, the hance Of Miss
Evelyn Marshall, left the city yestcr-
day FOR Chicago. where he will remain
for two or three weeks. Mrs. Charles
H. Marshall will arrive from France
in few days, when arrangements
will be made for her daughters mar
rage.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08
Hospital Work "Horrid."

cit was perfectly horrid at that hos
pitql." one young girl walled after an
afternoon in a regular hospital. Not
a thing like | imagined. Why, they
put me to work scrubbing tables.
Imagine! Ne scrubbing tablesl
81 thought they would send me 20
care for some interesting man, and
that could read to him and send him
flowers. and everything like that. Oh,
il was nothing like imagined it would
be, shan't want 70 go 10 France to
take care Of wounded soldiers if they
make me do such unpleasant things as
scrubbing."
Thus those who cherished romantic
dreams about nursing are quickly dis
illusioned. They are made 70 see 1t as
a hard. unlovely occupation, but those
who are earnest in their desire to help
humanity are not deferred.
And to those of the class who have
been awakened by the war. perhaps
for the first time. 10 an appreciation OF
.he misery of others, there is peculiar
comfort in the symbolism of the cheap,
bingham uniform-servce to suffering
humanity. And it is to tit themselves
for this service that these women arc
attending the i. ". c. A. trained at
tendance class.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

Mrs. Clarence Winthrop Bowen and
her debutante daughter, Miss Roxana
Winthrop Bowen, were "at home" yes
terday afternoon at 3 East ODD 81. Mrs.
Bowen will give another reception Jan
uary IA and dance January % at
Sherry's.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-01-08

viii Go TO French Hospital.
Miss Blanche A. Morrell was also in
Europe after the war had started, and
expects to return to help in some hos
pital.
81 have many friends in England who
have turned their homes into hospi-
.als. and shall help them" she said
81 don't know Just what ! shall be able
TO do. think though, that it is large
" matter of common sense, and any
one with sympathy and tact can help
with the convalescents. | am very
strong. too" she smiled, land that is
the big thing"
The course Of instruction as outlined
by Miss Henderson includes lectures
and demonstrations, invalid cooking
and work in practical nursing. The
members Of the class go three times a
week 10 the various hospitals in the
city. They are shown Immediately
that there is much hard, disagreeable
work connected with nursing, and very
little romance.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-29
TRY TO SUIT AVERAGE MAN
More Than 300 Automobile Companies
strive for Common End.

There are in this country some aAl ocd
pleasure cars In use. nud by tho cud a
this year this number VIII duuntlcsa ho
increased 10 more thnn @upD,0l To riu
this immense market more thnu 300 aufo-
mobile companies are Tor have boou I'm
existence. And yet Their" are hy no means
800 different classes Of requirements IN
fact, there is but one requirement thnt
most of these companies try to meet, and
that is. to fill the desire Of the average
motorist, writes II. w. Slauson in I.eslie's,
What kind Of car does Mr. Average
Mot riSt want? The car that most clearly
answers that question is the car that viii
meet with the greatest degree OF success,
The ideal car for the average motorist
should bc as heavy as is necessary to make
for comfort and speed, and should be az
light as is consistent with such require
mcnts II should be as loW-priced Is
consistent with good designs and the use
of the best materials and workmanship,
but low price should not be the deciding
factor-the price should be set to meet
the car, not the car built to meet the
price: it should have no higher power than
is necessary to do the work required Il
il by its average owner; it should have
only the number Of cylinders necessary to
give the desired flexibility, accelerating
ability and smoothness of operation.
For the primary requirement We should
place rellability-the knowledge that the
car will continue to run indefinitely. as
long as the vital parts receive care and
attention. This car must possess COM
fort to the utmost degree, comfort in the
tonneau as we'll in the drivers seat;
it must he designed to absorb the jolts
and Jars of the average country reads.
land of the good road gone wrong. 80
that the occupants may travel At moder-
ate speed without fatigue; it must be or
n wheel base sufficient to furnish TINS
required comfort and space. but the wheel
base should he kept short as Is consists
ent with these results in order to maka
the car easy to handle in traffic and 10
keep the weight within the required
limits.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-29
SCIENCE DEATH TO WAR
T., pIosi.es May Possibly he Made
Useless by Invisible Means.

The London Lancet asks II the 'iine Is
approaching when, owing to the hBh de-
velopments Of chemical ana physical SCI
ence, warfare will become pracucaIIy I'M
possible II is suggested that explosives
may possibly he rendered useless Wheh IN
visible means are found to fire them from
great distances, as might prove 70 be the
case in these days of wireless waves or
radiations and projection. lhe Lancet
remarks that II would be remarkable
outcome Of scientific discovery II the
new weapons by their precision shouIu
automatically extlnGuish themselves II
nrmamcnts should thus defeat its own
ends. arbitration should at length sue
coed. the paper believes. ON the employ
ment Of poisonous gases the Lancet re
marks
Glib references are made to the pos
sible use of potent poisons, arsenlcal
gases, prussic acid or some other death
dealing substance which shall improve
anon chlorine compound adopted by the
enemy It Is we'll to remember that there
is evidence that the enemy has seriously
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-29
PROTECTING HIGHWAYS.
of National Society on
Tour of InspcCtiOn.

Edward : Cornell, who is secretary
of the National Highways Protective
society, with headquarters at West 3ith
street. New York. was in this city sat
urday He is ON a tour of this part of
the country in behalf of the National
society which is making an effort to
do away with all signs and advertise
ments being nailed to trees and posted
along the public highway Five States
have law making it unlawful to post
advertising signs within the limits of a
highway and the National society is
working with the hope that all states
may soon have such laws. Not only
does a highway posted indscriminat"lH
with advertising signs present a most
unsightly appearance, but tn" mailing f
signs to trees means the loss Of many
beautiful shade trees along the road.
Tho space behind the signs affords an
excellent place for the breeding Of In
sect pests. and anyone who will take
the trouble to stop his automobile beside
tree on tn" highway which is covered
with signs will find any amount of larvae
and coCoons.
New York, Pennsylvania, Massa chu-
sets. Connecticut, Maryland and Rhode
Island already have laws which govern
the question. and the crime ranges from
the class of misdcmcanor 20 one which
is punishable by a fine or Imprisonment,
or both. In the laws Of Vermont sections
5S3i prohibits the painting or posting Of
signs on telephone or telegraph poles
under n penalty of a s. fine to he paid
to the city or village in which the
offenso occurs. Section $50 provides that
anVOnc who prints paints or posts "A
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-29
THE EGREGIoUs FOoTMAN.

Eihu Root said a a dinner:
Governmental interference hurts hust'
ness, and then. before this hurt, before
this paralysis. the government assumea
kind Of shocked, injured-innocence air.
It's like the new footmGn.
"A new footman rushed into the dining
room while the family vas at dinner,
and, pale and shaking, he gasped;
"A glass # wine. y glass Of wine
for the love Of heavevn,'
His master poured him out a Scner-
Gus glass of priceless vintage Chambers
tin.
What's the matter James, the mas
ter said. What has happened?'
The footman tossed off the wine,
snacked his lips, and sighed with re-
lief.
Oh he said wot a shock I've 'ad,
to be sure, just busted that there
moo SON peach-blow vase wot you
bought from Jackson, sir. oh. my, what
a shock! But feel better now "-EN-
change.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-29
SAVING MOUNT VERNON
Home of Father George Was Headed
for the Potomac.

The high bluff on which stands Mount
Vernon, the home of our first president,
has for many years been in danger of
gradually sliding into the Potomac. This
danger became acute a few years ago
when it was discovered that a new land
slide was beginning that threatened to
destroy the broad lawn in front of the
mansion, if not the foundations Of the
mansion itself. and engineering work, re-
Gently completed, was begun at that time
to save the historic site from further
damage.
The ground slopes from the mansion to
the edge of the bluff and from this point
drops steeply for a hundred feet or more,
to the edge Of the Potomac. The river,
at this point Is wide tidal estuary and
the action of the waves has caused a
steady erosion at the foot of the bluff.
Underlying the bluff are strata Of sand,
clay. and soft sandstone, which. on in
vcstgation. were found to be saturated
with water. and this, combined with the
erosion Of the waves, has resulted in
landslidcs that have doubtless been going
on internationally for ages.
To cure tho trouble a small drainage
tunnel was first driven In the bottom
of the sandstone stratum and carried
back from the river front n distance of
about 2op feet. From this tunnel heavy
flow of water Immediately started and
this flow continued for several months.
vt the end of that time the flow diminish
cd to n moderate amount and has re-
manned practically constant ever since
TO prevent further erosion at the foot
Of the bluff through the action or the
waves a heavy masonry wall was then
built along the edge of the river,-Fron
the August Popular Mechanics Magazine