The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-09-04
RIGHT WAY TO COOK
HAM Is TOLD HERE
New Workers Scott at Wash
ingtOn Idea Of Cham
payne or Ink.
WATER THE ONLY FLUID

Cooks did indeed disagree yesterday
over the best way to boil n ham, when
three noted master cooks were asked
their views of the great ham contest In
Washington. when one ham was boiled
In champagne and another In ink. as
told IN a despatch to mi SUN.
Two definite impressions resulted
That n ham should not be boiled in
champagne. az G. u. Richardson. n
Washington real estate main
tained. and that a ham should not be
boiled In ink. despite ex-Postmaster
Frank Conger's say so. ALSO. 1t was APP
parent that there probably are as many.
only" ways to cook a ham as there
are cooks.
However. let the authorities be intro
duced and let them pronounce their
opinions. They are Jean Richroche, the
V~anderbilt's young French chef
Edouard Panchard OF the Mc.Alpin. who
finds time to teach the u women At
Teachers College and Vassar to cook,
and Louis Sores of the Biltmore. They
are among the best paid men OF this
profession I'm New York.
NJ Richroche:
There is no other way TO cook a
ham but In water. The ham should be
soaked In water all night and then put
TO simmer for two and "A half to three
hours. Then let 1t cool of In the same
water. The main point In. cooking a
ham Is to have IL simmer, not boil have
II Just bubble slowly. In bubbllng II
avoids the cracking OF the skin and the
good juices remain inside and do not
escape that IL the gelatine that makes
the ham so delicious.
HAft.r 10 sI,,p,ars foe tx.,n a,l N halo
or three hours on the range let IL cool
In It's own water. The ham Ii supposed
to be cured and made delicious by the
brine. and his will give 1t sufficient
flavor without putting In anything else.
In cooking with champagne or ink the
only thing accomplished would be the
spelling Of the ham. 1t would be alb.
solutely wrong.
Even the famous Virginia home
cured hams would be spoiled II one were
to put anything else In them when
cooking. The only thing one does In
preparing the Virginia hams is 10 roast
them after they are cooked, being sure
TO use "A generous amount OF brown
sugar and cloves. rubbing the ham with
these before roasting"
VI. Sores had this to say
II never tried cooking "a ham In ink.
therefore l can't say what effect 1t would
have on the ham. Cooking a nan In
champagne, however. has been tried.
without much success, either for the
ham or the champagne. Champagne
turns to water when boiled or heated
for that matter so you see the wine
would have absolutely no effect on the
meat. In my opinion a ham does not
absorb the flavor of any liquid outside
OF water. The salt in the meat counter
acts that. Sugar acts somewhat the
! same In this resnaIf giving ls the sugar
cured ham.
The ham can be given a wine flavor.
but first IL must be cooked in water II
the usual way. The fiavorlng process II
something that Is done afterward. The
way to do It Is to take the ham after
II has been boiled and place 1t In a high
pot over n layer OF cloves or spicy trim
mings, Then "A quart bottle OF MADEIRA
or sherry is poured over Il. a little water
added and the ham is left TO simmer
for an hour or more, Sometimes cider
is used In the same way as Madeira or
the sherry and the effect Is quite ss
| pleasing"
NJ. Panchard said that both Washing
ton ham cooks were right that n ham
could he cooked I'm champagne or In nix,
although ink cooked ham is not n dish
that Will ever be- found on any OF his
menus.
TO COOK n nam IN champagne re-
quires special apparatus he said. 'and
then the ham does not really boil In the
wine, A ham Is boned and compressed
In "A cooker covered with II pint OF cham
payne, and the whole apparatus Is then
immersed in water and boiled for hours
There Is another process of cooking
ham which In my opinion Is odd enough
to occupy the spare time Of the two
Washingtonians, and II results In a great
delicacy. Let them cook their hams IN
hay according to this recipe Get a nice
Virginia ham of twelve to fifteen
pounds. Wrap this In fresh mown hay
and boil for three or -four hours, Sugar
the ham and put in a pan covered with
sugar sprinkle with brandy and glaze
in the oven"