Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1915-08-11
LEADERS OF PARIS
VOGUE BUSY DESPITE
WARS STERN ALARMS
New Creations of French Art
Displayed in Fashions Bazaar
Reflect the Military
Spirit of the Times
HATS OF A MARTIAL TYPE
Some Bear Resemblance to Chapeaux
Worn by Allies-Changes in
Top Coats and Furs

In spite Of war and all It's attendan
terrors, the French deslgners-at least
those whose names are associated with
the most chic and novel Of fashionable
creations, and have been for genera.
tions-such as Jenny, Doucet, Paquin,
Doeuillet, and the famous millinery
nrtIstes, are having their fall and WIN
ter openings In Paris now The newest
and most effective creations OF French
art are TO be seen at these most inter-
esting gatherings, and New York buy
| Crs from all the well-known stores are
| there TO make their selections.
| At first 1t was thought impossible to get
| out samples and to make showing when
| so many Of the artists In this line were
| away ut the war. The costumers were
somewhat delayed; in fact, several OF the
best Partisan couturieres have not held
their openings yet. but millinery styles
! are decided and attractive to degree.
| For instance, the high crowned hat is "A
most conspicuous feature of the French
chapeau Military influences are every
where evident, many Of the fashions
showing marked resemblance to
the soldiers hats worn with the
uniforms OF the various Allies such
as the Bersagleri hats, adapted from
tho picturesque fashions affected by
the italian sharpshooters. For the most
part, hats are small and chic made OF
velvet and almost without exception,
worn with veil. Paris insists on the
veil tightly drawn in to the face, and fig
ured with allover lace designs Dark col
orlngs predominant in millinery, just as
In costumes. with marked penchant for
black velvets.'
AS for furs and topcoats. It is inter-
e5ting to notice the changes introduced
by the rage for short, bouffant skirts
Tho tnba- -uffrt d,
ly fitted fur coat, for symmetry in line
and style. This is all done away with
nobody would think of wearing a long
coat with full skirt. The short full
skirt requires a short and slightly far
ing coat. and this is predicted as the
fashionable thing for winter. Fur OF all
kinds Is seen on garments, especially on
smart velvet afternoon frocks Lovely |
dull blues and greens in chiffon velvet |
and corduroy is favorite with Jenny for |
afternoon wear. Simplicity of line and |
elegance of material are the most strik- |
ing features Of the French creations
Tailored suits and trotteurs show very |
rev changes, except the newer coats, |
which are made with Jackets below the
waistline, and a decided flare This ac-
centuates the normal waistine, which is
coming in again. In fact, women are
going to wear" waistlines again.
Mousseline de sole and net trimmings
are alternated with bands OF velvet on
evening gowns with myriad rufnings and
frills on the skirts. These ruffles are
varying in size beginning with tiny ones
at the waistlne, with gradual increase in
size at the bottom. Trimmings of beads
and fur are also popular especially on
evening wraps. The cOlorlngs are more
vivid than last season, with n particular
penchant for cerse and violet.
particularly successful creation by
Pierre Bulloz is called "Vive la France"
deiicately shaded gown of panne vel
vet in blue and red.