The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-04-04
=, ELEANOR HOYT RRAINERD.


AsTER brides were puzzled over
r. wedding gowns this year.
- Tho new modes do not lend
themselves readily to bridal
,,adi,,on and even where one accepted
,he revolutionary short wedding gown
and short veil, az they have been ac-
rented to certain degree, the silhouette
sas still a matter for serious consld-
Grafton.
bride with flowing skirt seems al
together out Of the picture. We are
accustomed TO slender brides and
though fat women Will worry. we cX-
meet them TO assume the virtue ~
tenderness If they haven't 1t and
d-essmskcrs have bent every effort
toward securing that much desired re-
,nl,. Long. clinging. trailing lines
have been the bridal gown ideal. and
!, spite OF innovations the ideal re-
mains: so the problem this spring has
h..n 70 reconcile that ideal to the
modes.
Luckily eclccticism in dress Is ac-
,ep,ed nowadays. aud though certain
modes may dominate a season. depart
ny. from such modes Is altogether per-
nssible. provided the departure is sue
cessful from the aesthetic viewpoint.
Ga the designers of bridal gowns have
gone on making their trained and
e,lrrins gowns for a majority of the
brides and only the observing eye
notes the concessions made to the sea-
con. the little points of divergence
from the familiar
Materials for tho wedding gown arc
much as they have been In other sea-
sons. Tho supple satins have first
place, but taillc, gros de l.ondres and
similar wcaves popular outside the
province Of wedding finery are chosen
nv some Of the brides this year. NJ
the soft handsome crcpes are used
and some really lovely gowns are hudt
IN in such sheer stuffs a. ninon and
chiffon
Handsome brocades are combined
with plain stun in some of the pre-
tentious gowns and many models show
satin or other substantial material Y
combination with chiffon or other thir
material. the latter forming the greater
part Of the frock. while the h"avi.i
elk makes the train swing from thu
shoulders or from the empire wa,
line
The cotton enthusiasts have pressed
very fine cotton wolfe into service
even for wedding gowns and have Oh
tslned attractive effects too. on'
downtown shop illustrated the posi-
blites Of cotton a month ago by dis
paying brides gowns and brides
maids frocks of cotton wolfe. cottoi
net. Sc. worn by manncquins in
mock marriage proct ssion. and New
York dressmaker has in hand tn
brides gown for the big cotton ball i
Louisville and promises contentedl'
tina, It il going to he some wcddni
gown
" course cotton does not ncccs
sariy spell chcapness or economy
for quantities IL fine lace and hand
work will bring the price Of such
gown up beyond that Of many a sati
gown. hut the cotton Counts for senti
= nent with some of this years bride
and besides very charming things ca
he accomplished with il. even thong
lule costly trimming is added.
The Medic type Of collar il i
hany If It's phases impractical for tn
wedding gown because ii interfere
With the graceful lines OF the veil an
10 some extent thickenS the thron
ard shoulder silhouette. some de
sgners OF authority refuse To- roll TIA
collar up against the back Of the nee
ua'l. claiming that = "A brides throa
Is fairly good the lines of the bar
- throat in connection with the flown
III tulle or lace of the veil are too VIluahI
from an artistic view 70 he obscure
bur where frankly bare rapc of III
heck is unhecoming the collar IL role
~ softly al tn" back. but II seldu'
stands out aggre~ siVeiy.
In front he shallow round ar ov
line Or the little square l. newer ''