The Alaska citizen., 1915-12-13

the NHla AN ANa 'AA' N-l. .N.N ' the young and the aosaIaiy slim.
 Jeanne Lanyin is one wuo believes it is not possible to force the Rus sion skirt on every one, &aa "OIt has created velvet c@cnias so# which aae e,p the instens anu hay
 g.I.s trains taat spread GU. -.Har. y n tho floor, startia1 al He VIZ. tine.
 Cal.'5 aIone witr Jenng an GeIr#d 4sa making 57Ha.s on all sinds ol owns that go in a straish .tae a4 the chest to below in, w-i.-. holding in the bust to slender ness and lowing the waist to D. it's natural size
 Cherait puts many of these corsr 'els lsaG- Of silver lace Gf metal cloth. of gold embroidery. as a L. t5 a s4iit If tula, or tafio,a. 0. velvet Jenny makes tEem on sse eral afternoon froc,ls, notably oH in coebeau blue cgttcn velvet ani another iu black yel.a,. whirh do not re.d the least tiel; n oi tho corset strings. They 3rasan: a straight line down the top of t&c figure. C5llct has sent over somc evening gowns Of pastel cGl0rsG satins which drop straight from the chest to the ankles iInorine taa waist. almost medieval in az pearancc
 True 1t would be exceedingly comforting to have a neat waist, but as it is not possible to everyone it k equally comforting to know that one may be quite in the fash ionable picture without il, and tla5 many models are offered that art large waisted and which, possibly, present a definite aim toward re yi,al of the medieval tendencies.
 Incoming Trains Are Welcomed.
 Another attractive feature in some of the very new gowns is the in troducti0n of trains that hang from the waist Worth is responsible
 sf tsis innovation. That house has waya liked the ceremonial in clothes, going in strongly fer |. disnilied English effect as the f5I- Ter was an Englishman, a!thous both the "ooys" are fighting + rse trenches for Fraace
 The uncle w1o runs the house $ opposed to many of the moden. features Of clothes; the exploit n < f new ideas through mannequins t pubic places was never allowed tH2 well known members of the 4ali world were not allowed in the house When one knows Paris auc knows how much courage it r"- quired, and monetary loss it in yoNed. to insist upon these elimina- tions, then one can get bird d's-eye view of the dignity of the house of Worth. IL may not have paid commercially or artistically but fl exists.
 The Tendency Toward GirIishness.
 Now that the firm has closed its historic London house, the Pal1: creations may become more em; nently French, but, so far, there i no evidence of it. Only Ameriy. matters now with the makers Of clothes, and Worth believes, rightly. that there is a large number ol Americans who do not like the modern tendency toward girlislness and frivolity in clothes, especially for those whose youth has gone.
 The evening gowns which he ad- Vances for this winter have their cascaded trains lined at the sides with satin in a pale color Some one who wanted a simple gown from which vas eliminated the geV. gaws that spot the surface of mosl of the Watteau frocks asked Worth if he could make it His answer was pinkish red velvet without touch of any color or trimming on it. The deep decolletage was cut in the English manner and held over each shoulder by band of red velvet ribbon, ending in bow thai stood almost to the ears
 Chiffon Rivals Velvet.
 It was necessary that tie French designers chose chiffon or silk for the best of their afternoon frocks because they did not have recours to variety of fabrics so long as the Germans hold the industrial towns Of northern France.
 True, Rodier, the fabric make put up new mills and went on wit his work as though the Germans were in their own country, not his; but France had on hand and found easy to get a mass of chiffon, Sc the fashion was created for frocks of that fabric, and the topcoat emphasized an adjunct to them
 These chiffon frocks are in en- trancing colors. There is nothing flamboyant. Green that has gray in it, pale purples, yellow (called