davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06
LATEST FASHION NOTES
 from the FASHION CENTRES

IF straws show which way the wind | blows, rumors and reports from \ the openings which are being held across the sea are surely indicative of what we may expect with the coming of another season and there is much of interest to be gleaned just now. While there Is ample time for change of mind on the part of the designers and for variations without number, 1t seems fairly well established that we shall see a great many coats made with high necks and choker collars and that the tendency in daytime gowns is much in the same direction. Notwithstand- ing some difficulties that must exist, fur is to make an important feature of cold-weather fashions and lavish amount of fur is to be used. We shall have fur collars and fur cuffs and we shall have fur trimmings. Velvet and the new velveteen which is exceedingly pliable and beautiful is expected to have great vogue, and fur is particu larly beautiful in contrast Many of the mixed cloths show extre ,nely inter esting color effects. Stripes of sub dued, rich and exceedingly beautiful color are conspicuous in the simpler IdDI1CS SUCH as llitZt anu tAiCNtotj dilO clever designers are selecting trim mings that-make an exceedingly rich effect in combination herewith. It of the season will be toward a quiet tone in the costume with bits of really brilliant color found as relief.
 A simple suit seen today is, for ex- ample, made of striped frieze in which brown predominates. It is trimmed with brown velvet and tiny pipings of real orange, which are exceedingly beautiful. A second stripe which shows dull shades of brown, green and red, is trimmed with black braid and green velvet collar and cuffs, while it also shows ball buttons, the lower portions of which are made from the cloth with the upper parts of green velvet. In various ways color effects of the sort are to be found and when the designer has the color scheme the effect always is good. The danger is found in the tendency to grasp the idea without the taste to discriminate and in the crude effects that are apt to result If we could be sure that all the costumes would be as successful as the two mentioned we might welcome the fashion without reserve, but is probable that we shallisee a great many garish contrasts and not a few that really hurt the trained eye.
 Black and white effects hold their place. They are always beautiful, they always mean a certain elegance, and consequently they always are welcome. An exceedingly beautiful costume which seems especially adapted to the mature woman, is of black broadcloth trimmed with white and with black braid. The skirt is most unusual one with shaped straps passing over the hips to inclose a panel at the front and box-plait at the back with plaited models at the sides. All the seams are piped with very narrow black silk braid which accentuates the long lines. The edges are finished with wide fancy black braid The coat shows all the seams piped with the braid and also the fancy braid used most effectively. It is ar
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06
Permanent Construction
 WSo Temporary Road Repairs

considerable sum, parl.ieIed the rail- load, being just off their right of way. At one point the railroad IS using a bridge with some 200 square feet of waterway, but notwithstanding this fact, the county official put in two S6-inch pipes to carry the same water. What was the result? During the first storm, about 90 feet of load or each side of the pipes. was washed away and had to be rebuilt at q cost which would have paid Tor lhe proper sized opening re- quired at first
 A similar case in another county. The railroad is using 165 square feet of waterway, while the county road, only few hundred feet above the same point, has one S0-inch pipe, but it is hard to locate. owing to the wash being filled with debrls which has entirely covered the pipe.
 l was rather amused last year at enc of the county road superinten- dents We needed a few culverts on road being constructed, and asked him if the county had any , that We could not get. He replied, Yes. we have a lot of them and I wish you would take them all for they are no good anyway; every time I put one in. il washes away the first rain. And from what I saw Of his work most of them did. This man had absolutely no ideas | regarding drainage.
 ! Recently, a trip was made over q section of county road just com 1 pleted, a distance of some seven miles, over country subjected to | sudden and very heavy rainfall. and only three 24-inch pipes were found along Ire entire distance. This ap- ! peared absurd, and the thought oi ] the cost of repairing the road after ! the rainy season. almost stunned mo ! These cases are not cited for criti cism, but to impress upon the minds ! of road officials the importance ot ] one of our greatest road problems i DRAINAGE. Do not treat thls sub feet lightly. for no matter how ! good your alignment or how easy your grades, unless your road has
 tEe proper amount of drainage, vol will always experience much trouble . and heavy expense in maintaining it And another thing. if your road is
 well drained. 1t can always be i'm proved from time to time by addi- tional work. which is sometimes ne
 cessary where funds are small an,
 mileage great. as in parts of Ari.
 zona.
 It is apparent to anyone who Ina.
 studied road matters for q period O
 years. that the advantages of per marent highways have been repeat
 eily proved beyond all argument but to trose who possibly have no
 studied the subject. some argument
 will be advanced in favor of per
 manent work as against the old. an,
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06
over the same hill.

over the same hill.
 The roads in this country are be- ing used to a greater extent each year by. the automobile, as tke fol- lowing figures will sow. In 1899 the number of autos manufactured in the United States was 3723; in 1912, 245,O0O; in 1915, the output of one factory alone will reach 35a,000
 Each year it is estimated that no less than three million tourists visit Switzerland, and a very large per centage of these are Americans Switzerland has found it extremely profitable to build and maintain inn proved roads of the highest type to hold this business. But since the great war has been raging in Eur ope, these American tourists are compelled to stay at home and it is only for the United States to build permanent roads, and a greater per centage of them will not go abroad
 Figures from the Denver Chamber of Commerce show that 5000 auto mobilists visiting Colorado, spent more than $Z.700, ,0000O in that state 1 alone. Isn't business like that worth catering to? Especially since Ari- %ona has more to offer the tourist than any other state in the union. No state can boast of so much and such diversified scenery as Arizona. The Grand Canyon, of course, is the big attraction, but when the motor 1 tourist learns of the other wonders, such as the Petrified Forest. the Painted Desert, the lee Caves, the Prehistoric Cliff Dwellings, the Hopi Indian Villages, the Natural Bridge, l tEe extinct volcanoes, Meteor noun 1 tain, the lava beds, Montezuma' s Well and Castle. prehistoric irriga- ton ditches, the wonderful Roose- welt dam Ca masterpiece of engin- ocring), the beautiful drive from | Phoeni:;, via the dam. to Globe, the | Casa Grande ruins, the old Spanish missions. the great mines and smel- 1 ters. the beautiful mountains and l fertile valleys, isn't it easy to see 1 that the See America First" slo- gan is bound to become more popular each year? Provided permanent highways are built to afford the motorist comfort in travelling.
 But how are we to secure perma ncnt construction of our roads i. asked? This is a question which re- ! and brains with experience. The funds should be procured through
 bond issues, the details of whicl should receive very careful atten l ton.
 It is a self evident fact that any
 k.nd of work, public or private cai
 be done more efficiently by a persoI
 who is qualified than by one who i:
 hot qualified.
 If you had 9 severe attack of ap
 pcndicitis would you send for tn
 groceryman to operate on you?
 you had a very important lega
 question involving thousands O
 dollars, would you send for rail
 read section boss to decide it? No
 hut you would employ the very bes
 talent available for each particula
 case, and would be willing to pa.
 well for the service rendered. Tn
 same applies to highway work. whel you have a bad road, get the bes talent available regardless of tn
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06

In Lee county, Va, a farmer owned 100 acres between Ben Hur and Jonesville. which he offered to sell for $1,S00.00. Later the road was improved, and although the farmer fought the improvement he has since refused $3,0G0 for his farm. Along the same road a tract of 1SS acres was supposed to have been sold for S6,OOO, but the purchaser refused the contract, however, and the owner threatened to sue him. After the road improvement and without any improvement on the land. the same farm was sold to the original purchaser for $9,OOO Many similar cases could be cited.
 The fact that on improved roads, hauling becomes largely independent of the season of the year or weath- CT conditions means another very consider able reduction in hauling costs. To make this point more forceful | few instances will be cited. A farmer in Sullivan county Tenn, lad to haul barbed wire from Bristol to Kingsport. distance of g miles. He found that with a two horse -eam his maximum load was 500 pounds and that three days were necessary tC make one round trip To haul one ton, therefore, required twelve days and at $500 per day. for mam and team, the cost was $36.00
 This was before Sullivan county is- sued bonds for permanent roads for permanent roads, Under the bond issue. the same road was i'm proved, so that the team can nov readily haul a ton on the load and make .one round trip in two days at cost of $G00 The ton-mile cost over the old road was $156, and this was reduced to 26 cents by the inn proved road
 Another instance. at Crosby. Tex as. is significant. There. a road was improved for one mile out of town. A farmer four miles out came into town with a team of mules and loaded his wagon with two tons of wire fencing. At the end of the improved road on his return trip. he was compelled to throw off 5000 pounds. He then hitched on two additional mules to haul the 1000 pounds over the remaining three , miles of unimproved road. He then i had to make three additional trips ! required his time for the four miles l from ten o'clock one morning until I eleven o'clock the next morning to i finish the hauling. If the road had 1 been improved the entire four miles ! to his farm. the original two mules ! could have hauled the two tons ir ] less than half day.
 Before Madison county roads il ] Tennessee were improved, one bal, of cotton was a load for two horses ! Several hundred miles of improved roads have been built in the county
 and now it is not an uncommon ! sight 60 see ten bales of cotton be.
 ing hauled by two horses. The ef
 ficiencY of the team. you see. hai
 teen increased ten times.
 Over the old Cherry Creek hill il
 favapai county, Arizona, 1900 pounds was q good load for four horses
 Since the road has been improved
 by the state highway department
 two horses can haul 5000 pound
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06
cost. when you expect to improve

cost, when you expect to improve that road. .--~-------,
 Unfortunately it has taken the American people centuries to realize that the construction and mainten- ance of roads constitutes a highly specialized work. which can be done with entirely satisfactory re- suits only by specialists. Even now. we have made only a beginning in the campaign for efficient manage ment of the public roads, and it may be many years to come before We shall have a highly efficient sys- tenn comparable to that which is in effect in most of the European countries.
 Many individual investigations made by the United States office of public roads, have indicated that in the county road systems, about one fifth of the roads carry fifths of the entire traffic. It is readily apparent therefore that the exercise of unbiased, good judgment and technical and practical knowledge holds possibilities of very material and far reaching importance
 If it is possible to save thousands 
 to so much better advantage through the utilization of efficient road or ganization, consider for a moment the stupendous saving which an ef- 1cient road system would mean, through the lowering of transporta- tion costs. the improvement of mar Ret conditions, the development of agricultural production, the promo l,A country districts, the decentralization of population so that an effective balance would exist between the dwellers in the towns and those who till the soil.
 It appears to me, there is but one way. to secure a standard of per man ent highway construction. That is through a centralized highway or EaniZation, under state control. The United States office of public roads | says: We are gradually going i through the process of centraliza l ton through state highway depart ments. and we can measure progress Of efficiency largely by the progress | of centralization as exemplified 1T state highway departments" There ! are only a few states now whicl
 
 1 it is observed that the efficiency. ob- | tained in these states is far shor 1 of what it should be- under proper | supervision. It will take us roanl years to obtain adequate supervision i for all of our roads if we expect tt 1 get it through state control ant l limit that control only to roads Oi which state funds are expended. New ! York has made notable progress ir | reaching the local road management | by granting a small measure of ait to town highways, conditioned upoi the construction and maintenance being done according to requirement. ! of the state highway department 1 Illinois has made long strides to ward centraliZing road control, an
 Iowa has faced the propositio squarelv by the enactment of a lay placing all of the roadwork in tn
 state under the direction of the stat highway department And low should, within a very few years have one of the best systems o
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06


 highways in the country.
 If it is not possible to have state supervision of all the road work, the individual counties should set aside .annualiy O greater porton of their road funds, for permanent construc 1ion. Cochise, Greenlee and Yavapai counties have already adopted this method and while some criticism was offered at the beginning by those living off the main roads, the majority realized the benefits of a permanent road as soon as the roads were completed
 Continuous employment must be d basic feature of our road systems either state or county, if efficiency is to be maintained. We can never have good system of highways un- less the organization is employed continuously, as long as efficient. Not only must men be continuously employed, but they must receive adequate compensation. The penny wise and pound foolish policy of saving money by employing man who will give his services for the | least compensation should be aban- 1 doned wherever practiced Summing up the points put for ward, wish to emphasize:
 First: That our road problem is one of such magnitude as to de- mand adequate attention. l Second That the advantages of permanent highways have been
 proved beyond. all argument.
 Third: That funds for permanent | highways should be secured through l bond issues.
 ! Fourth: That the way to secure a standard system of permanent highway construction is through a i centralized highway organization ur- 1 der state control.
 Fifth: That if it is not possible 1 to have state supervision, the coun- ! ty supervisors should set aside, an | nually, the greater portion of their { road funds for permanent construc- , ton. rTjt
 Sixth: That employment must be
 continuous in order to obtain the i best results. Seventh: That compensation com ! mensurate with qualifications should 1 be provided
 1 Eighth: That the men who have direct charge of construction and maiptcnance should hold positions I during their efficiency.
 If these measures are taken gen
 orally throughout Arizona, we shall, l before many years, compare favor ] ably with any state in the United
 States, in the possession of an adc- quate system of highways.
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06

ranged over a vest of white broadcloth and this vest is finished all around it's edges with black and white braid, showing little insets of blue. Below the waist and on each side of the vest is embroidered a butterfly in black and white with threads of blue in the wings. The sleeves are bell-shaped but in sections with the seams piped. and the collar and cuffs are of black velvet edged with the fancy black and white braid used on the vest edges, showing touches of bthe, and embroid- cred with smaller butterflies to match upon the vest The lining of the coat IS white brocade, and incidentally it may be mentioned that Things are important. Usually they match the trimming and often, the brightest bit of the trimming, and bright lining in a dark suit always gives a good effect. Every one of the coats men toned is finished with a choKer collar.
 A three-piece costume of taupe broadcloth is made with most unusual skirt showing applied box-plaits which are a little shorter than the skirt and shaped at their lower edges to reveal a facing of satin. The bodice is of taupe chiffon over old blue chiffon, and 1t is trimmed with straps of the cloth that are embroidered in taupe and old blue. The coat has plaits at the sides which give flare and also harmonize with the skirt, and is finished with high collar and sleeve~bands of beaver fur.
 Embroidery makes an important feature of both the gowns and the suits. It might almost be said that every costume shows one touch in' needlework or another. The raised or, satin stitch is largely employed butt there are also many simpler sorts. ! Darning with colored threads andi metal threads is put to effective use. Couching with heavy woolen threads or worsteds is being employed with ex- cellent results for school-dresses and simpler costumes of the sort. Bead embroideries are largely used upon dinner and evening costumes. The shocking that has made such a fea- ture of the late summer is being utilized in numberless ways on the autumn cos tunes and every kind of fancy stitchery and of needlework IS fash ionable. We have indeed the needle woman opportunity, for while this handwork is costly if skilled labor is employed, it is not more difficult than much thaf is executed by the home woman every day in the year. It only requires the skill applied to garments that has been used for fancy work, to achieve the desired results. A college girls street gown of fine French serge in dark blue shows couching of gray worstcd on the wide belt and edges Of the blouse and of the sleeves finished with course button-holing worked witt the same thread. Once the idea il suggested, it can be made availablJ in numberless ways. A very beautiful black ,taffeta afternoon gown is ems broidered in shades of brilliant blud and yellow and not infrequently ths embroidery is made the medium oi the brilliant touch referred to above In the case of the taffeta gown, thu embroidery finishes the bell sleeves and enriches the girdle and just so muck is beautiful; more might easily becomi extreme or even vulgar.
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06

rapidly growing obsolete method of temporary repairs of the original cowtrail.
 If permanent highways were not a good investment, do you suppose that France would have built 371. = 900 miles of macadam roads and maintained them in perfect condi- tion? Well, hardly. Let us come a little nearer home and see what our sister state of California is doing for I believe We can profit by he. experience. In 1910 California is sued eighteen million dollars in road bonds, and before trat was spent fifteen million more. They claim already that for every dollar spent on permanent work, they have re oeived twenty in return, which is a fair rate of interest on any invest ment.
 There gre certain direct money ad- .vantages which follow the construc- tioh of permanent highways in ev- cry community. These advantages are probably most apparent in the reduced cost of hauling, and the iE- crease in value of land in the vic- inity Of the permanent highway. The price of commodities. paid by the consumer is influenced in no small degree by the cost of trans portation. Investigations made by the United States department of az riculture. show that on the average, the producers price for oranges is ! only 2 per cent of the price paid by the consumer: for onions, 2S per cent: for strawberries, 51 per cent. Of course, it is understood a large { r.,. ,,r pense for transportation distribution. etc. But it must be evident that as the cost of Transportation is re duced the producer and consumer are brought closer together and notn profit thereby
 The constant growth of towns and cities has increased the demand for farm products, which must be sup piled by greater production. Fruit is rotting on the ground in the country. every year. while only a few miles away. in the cities and towns the people are hungry for this same fruit, but cannot get it or account of bad roads. Bad roads and high cost of living go together
 Whatever methods are used to i'm prove a road. the improvement for hauling purposes is due to three causes: tEe bcttcrment of the road surface. the reduction of grades and the shortening of the length. Or such an improved road the time re-
 quired to haul a given quantity ot material a given distance is reduced The reduction may be largely duC
 to an increased speed of hauling increased load or to both. It is i'm portant to recognize that for trans
 portation purposes, reduction of time
 is equivalent to reduction of dis
 tance from market centers. It i
 easy to sec. then. why the increas.
 in farm values must follow improved
 roads. for their effect is to brini
 the farms. in sense, nearer to tn
 towns.
 It is a matter of common observa
 ton that whenever any communit,
 las passed from a condition dom
 mated by had roads to a condition
 characterized by good roads. Ian,
 values in that community advance
Arizona republican., 1915-09-06
THE NEW FRENCH RIBBONS

Paris finds, for one thing, that ribbons made this year are of q very inferior quality. The French ribbon industry, it seems. was largely carried on by men. The men went to war and women went into the rib bon factories. They are doing their best, but as yet the best ribbons tEey can turn out are inferior to the ribbons the Paris dressmakers desire Tn some cases the dress maker can make silk take the place of ribbons. But this poor quality of ribbons has helped to decide the nature of the trimming of the aut- umn millinery.