The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-15
Skirts Are Longer, Much to the ADJ
Vantage of Many, but Spring Models
Are Only Modified Slightly

straight lines OF the smartcst serge
frocks shown so far are really very
graceful and the simplicity Of their
detail adds to their effectiveness.
The two models of our central group
are fairly representative. n is in
fine dark blue serge, the other in
white, and zach has its touch Of
black. The general silhouettes are
similar. high collar line, close shoulder
line. slightly curved FORMAL waistline.
smoothly fitted hips, softly fiaring skirt
bottoms. Both are cut high across
the chest. and the dark frock fastens
In the back. 1t liz trimmed in rows
Of narrow black braid held at zach
end by n small bone button, and
c.everly applied, though in small
quantity.
The WHITE serge frock has not even
braid for trimming. bu, its high collar.
which can be turned back to leave
the front of the throat free. IL one
prefers to wear 1t so. is faced with
black velvet and black silk arrows are
embroidered as "A tailored finish to the
waist seams.
Both frocks have an unbroken prin-
cesse line in the middle front and his
feature Is repeated In SO many OF the
smartest looking new models of this
class that the item seems Significant.
Still, girdles. bodices ending at the
waistline or a little below and belts,
narrow or broad. are all in evidence.
One good looking white serge frock
has n tremendously wide belt OF the
serge. braid bound. as are most of the
frock's edges. and worn 50 loose that
II quite obliteratcs the waist curve.
The skirt too refuses TO fall into the
usual prescribed lines and insists upon
having IA long fiaring tunic I've a
plated underskirt. The skirt has a
suspender arrangement of the serge.
passing over the shoulders and under
the wide belt. to fall In double. but
toned tops below that belts lower
edge. The blouse il of chiffon or of
soft satin.
Various fashion chroniclers an
nounce hat there is not a tunic above
the Paris horizon. but some of the
very latest imported models show
more oil less irregular tunic
ments and the chances are that the
openings will bring out more. though
they will doubtless be the exception
rather than the rule. The very long
fiaring coat skirts and redingotes fea-
tured IN so many of the new suits give
lines approximating the tunic; but
there are also many shorter coats, full
and fiaring Of skirt and frequently
very irregular as to bottom line.
Loose. straight. beltcd coats there
still are. but these are chiefly in suits
of the sports class and there is evil
IDENTIFY to be a determined effort to es-
tablish more snugly fitted coat lines in
connection with suits.
Even the most knowing looking of
the new sports suits. II not the most
becoming. are quite trinity belted with
full fiaring coat skirts below the belt
and fronts buttoning high yer the
chest.
A model OF this sort in white serge,
illustrated or this page, has collar and
cuffs Of velvet. in the soft deep shade
called ''horizon." and is amply pock-
cted below the belt. but absolutely
plain above save for the velvet collar
and one large white button.
Coats Of about the same length as
this one, but unbelted. are also shown
in the white serge and white gabar-
dine models. but are rather more try
ing than the beIed models. and our
t~ailors have apparently not yet
mastered the art of giving them just
the right curve and flare, for 1t is the
exceptional Goa Of this cut that falls
easily to the figure and has grace
or smartness of line.
White serge skirts with sports coats
Of peau de pouri in light brown, soft
blue or other bright yet deep color
are offered in particularly attractive
models. One such model has a simple
fiaring skirt of white g%abardine with
a box plated Norfolk II nut brown
whose collar and deep cuffs are of the
white gabardine, and the brown and
white are a welcome change from
the bright blues. rose and green that
l nave so universally accompanied the
white skirt this summer
There are, by the way. many good
| looking separate skirts Of white serge