The Seward gateway., 1915-09-30

diaphonons material to complete thelr sheer entirety. Georgette crepe, chiffon, and crepe de chine continue to be the favorite mediums. Fur, lace and metallic embroideries are the favored garnishments.
 One unique model of white crepe de chine is absolutely plain in front with a deep sailor collar of white silk plush in the back that is edged with a fringe of sassy little black and white ermine tails. The long sleeves are caught together at the cuff with single tiny tail and there you are the tale of this blouse is ended.
 A stunning blouse for an elderly woman (if there is any such thing) is of grey chiffon and black lace with a banding of skunk around the neck and down each side of the front to the pust line. The sleeves which have a cap ton of lace and full undersleeves of the chiffon are cuffed in the fur. The lace is set in the back to form a point from the sholders to the waist line and in front extends from the shoulders straight down each side Of the fur bands.
 Combination of materials and of two colors are distinctly smart. or those that seek their contrasting color in fur the white waists combin- ed with skunk and the yellow with skunk are perhaps the lOvefest.
 Chiffon and velvet are also "ST and effective. A Russian green velvet waist with sleeves and yoke of the same shade of chiffon has for sole adornment a choker collar of bear with greenish gold metallic rose smuggling coyly on the left side.
 A vivid striped velvet of grey, black, scarlet and yellow has a high collar of astrakhan and the long flaring bell sleeves are deeply band ed with the same.
 The colored waists of Jersey silk promise but a dubious following for fall although the fur trimmed sweat CTS o' heavy wool or silk have been shaken off the Summer girls fair shoulders only to descend gracefully and fitting upon those of Miss Autumn. They are sure to be decld- edly smart we'll up into November for wear with tailor made skirts of serge, velvet and even taffeta. For yes. taffeta is to be Fall fabric this year as we'll as a perennial Spring one.
 Quite the cleverest of the tailored coat suits are fashioned of this silk and combined with fur to give them bit more stability.
 Although military styles and trench fashions are trying to retrench they have suffered almost total defeat in the Autumn mode encounters,
 With the exception of the prevail ence of Russian coats, turbanded and full skirted a la Cossack, and gleam- ing gold tassel or so la Belgian of- ficer little or no militarism has been allowed to gain headway against the lines of the allied a la modes.
 It certainly brooks much for fash ionable peace that the awful on slaught of military helmets, turbans, Highland bonnets and Belgian caps has been stayed and female headgear is once more staid again also. That is of course it is as circumspect as feminine head gear could ever be. Really very little exaggeration is shown as yet in the Fall hat models and either the close fitting little round and tri-corn shapes of velvet are ef- fected or the ultra large round foppy velvet shapes. A one color scheme has gripped the little hat and odd and bizarre shades have been evolved to meet the needs of one toned hat that will at the same time be suffici- ently striking.
 Royal purple, mahogany and a bright Prussia blue are a few of the colors used and a variation on the ever popular cerise is also offered. So vivid are some of the hues that it is going to be mighty hard for mere man to pass the hats this fall without adding binders to his other recently acquired fashionable aces sory-the wrist watch.