davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

hem at the width you have allowed.
haste and stitch. Now form plaits by
folding on the lines of smaller perfora-
tons and tapping these folded edges
over to meet the lines of larger per-
forations and lap the plaits at each
side of the back over to meet at the
seams. The opening must be made on
a line with the blouse, therefore, cut it
just beneath the under fold of the left
side Of the box-plait formed at the
center front and stitch one edge of
straight strip of material two inches
wide down the front edge and up the
back to form continuous facing. Fold
at the center and hem the remaining
edge over the seam. Join the skirt to
the under bodice, plating the large
perforations that mark the center
front exactly together and the center
backs exactly meeting. Stitch on the
marked outline OF the pattern, then
tuIA TIC SSdlI up uA1dCi IiAS booASS
and stitch haste. To make perfectly
neat finish, cut narrow strip of lining
lawn about three-quarters Of an inch
in width, turn each edge under and
basic over the edge Of the skirt. Then
stitch close to the edge as in the pic
ture and again at the upper edge Of the
facing.
To make the sleeveless coat or
over-blouse is very simple matter,
but before we take another step, we
must insert the pockets and to do
this in the neatest way, we must apply
strips for facings over the perforations
before cutting the openings. Cut two
straight strips, each one inch in width
and six inches in length, haste over the
coat with the centers on the lines OF
perforations indicating the pocket.
Then cut the openings on the perfora-
tons through both the facings and tho
coat. Seam the edges together firmly.
taking up as little as possible. then
turn the facings through the OPEN
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15
DiGgyon, Showing Under-Bodies 0,
Material SO Inches Folded
Lengthwise.

one Is chosen. In the diagram are
shown the coatee cut from the linen
and the collar and the sleeves cut from
batiste and the body portion or Lining
cut from plain lawn. The skirt is not
given for it is simple, straight piece
and there is nothing to show. The
pattern must be laid on the material
with the edge marked by the three
crosses on the lengthwise fold, then,
the straight selvage edges Of the
fabric joined until you have the
needed length. If there is to be
hem, remember to allow extra length
and good width for a hem on
girls dress is three or four inches. In
addition to that you will of course
need the usual seam allowance for
the inturn.
Mark all around the outside edges
Of the pattern with a tracing wheel or
with chalk and then cut beyond that
hne for the seams, allowing three
slghths Of an inch if the material is
closely woven and more if it is loosely
woven for upon the character and
quality Of the material must always
depend the necessary seam width. Be
careful to place the pattern and the
various parts exactly as directed on
the envelope and as Indicated in the
diagrams. The skirt being joined to
the body lining, the coat will be the
last garment to be undertaken, there
fore lay the pieces for that aside.
Mark all the perforations and all the
notches exactly and then mark through
to the under side with the tailors' tacks
as directed in previous lessons and
when you have pulled the two thick
nesses Of the material apart carefully,
you will be ready for the actual work
Of sewinA.,
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15
rs for the HOME NEEDLE WOMAN

T IERE is a design for embroider-
n ing a sailor collar and cuffs
= for child's dress or coat. .
The scalloped edges are designed
to be padded and buttonholed; the
sprays Of leaves and the flowers
worked in solid embroidery as eyelets
or in combination of solid embroidery
with eyelets, the stems are to be out
lined, and the round dots worked in
solid work or as eyelets.
To pad the scallops rapidly and
effectively, work chain stitch between
the lines, heavier at the centers.
lighter at the points; or, cut a skein Of
thread, apply two or more strands
over the center of the stamped pat
tern, keeping within the lines; tack
here and there in COUGHING style,
gathering the threads closely together
at each point OF the scallops.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

his - season Of a great many
attractive and picturesque
effects and they are perhaps
especially conspicuous in the chill
dren's costumes. But among them
an, It 10 doubtful If there is any one
which allows Of greater variation OF
treatment than the sleeveless bodice
or coatee which is worn over sepa-
rate blouse and skirt. The dress that
Il shown here, and which has been
selected for the lesson, is made with
such coat and also with straight.
plated skirt that is joined to per-
fectly plain body portion. The pretty.
full sleeves are sewed to the arm
holes Of this body portion and the
coatee 10 finished quite separately,
consequently this coatee can be made
Of a material to match the skirt or Of
4 different one. In the picture, the
skirt and the coat are both Of linen,
the body lining is made Of lining lawn
and the collar and the sleeves are Of
batiste; the combination is good one.
. smart one and a practical one, and
the dress will be serviceable through
out the entire summer. 1t would.
however. be easy to treat this model
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

these over the pattern Of the under
bodice at the armhole edges and cut
pieces wide enough to extend to the
perforations, allowing one-quarter of
an inch extra for the inturned edge,
then haste over the lining lawn. Turn
the inner edges under and stitch to
position and cut the lining away be-
meath. Pin the shoulder and under
arm edges together, meeting the
notches exactly and carefully make
the seams on the right side. Stitch
as closely to the edges as possible, then
turn the seams and stitch again on
the wrong side, making this last
stitching on the marked outline of the
pattern. Turn the front edges under
on the line of smaller perforations and
turn the edges under second time at
the width of the seam allowance,
basic and stitch neatly into place,
close to the edges. When this is done;
the bodice will be ready for the sleeves
and the collar. In the picture, the
collar is finished with insertion and
with little lace edging. To apply
this trimming neatly, haste the lace
insertion over the edge Of the collar,
mitre carefully at the corners, then
stitch the inner edge to position, using
a very fine needle and very fine
stitches. Cut the material away BE-
meath, leaving just sufficient edge to
turn up under the lace. Turn this
edge up, haste and stitch second
time within the first stitching to make
a firm finish. Then trim the inturned
edges off closely. The second stitch
ing makes firm finish and a durable
one and there is no necessity for turn
ing the edge in, for so doing makes a
rather heavy collar, whereas, it is de-
sirable to make this one light and
dainty. The lace is drawn up to give
a little fullness and it is whipped on
by hand. Lay the collar over the
coat or blouse with the center backs
and notches exactly meeting and
haste into place. Then cut a bias
strip Of batiste three-quarters Of an
inch in width, lay that over the collar
with the edges meeting and haste.
Stitch the three thicknesses together
on the marked outlines, then trim off
neatly; turn the facing over onto the
under side of the coat, turn another
quarter Of an inch under for the in
turn, haste it carefully and stitch close
to the edge Then roll the collar over
on the perforations.
To make the sleeves, close the seams
with the notctes meeting, taking first
a narrow seam on the right side, then
a second seam on the wrong side
as directed for the shoulders and
the under-arms. If you are using
the long sleeves and wish to
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

IN 4 number Of different ways. The
little coat could be Of colored linen or
pique, while the skirt, sleeves and
collar are all Of white wolfe or white
crepe or other thinner material, or, if
something little dressier is wanted,
the skirt and the sleeves could be made
Of white crepe or wolfe and the little
coatee Of taffeta. For the simple
dress, linen scalloped as it is here is
good, but there are also other fabrics
that are quite as appropriate. If an
everyday, morning dress is wanted.
plaid gingham would be pretty for the
skirt, sleeves and collar with a plain
chambray for the coatee, or, cotton
crepe could be used of thinner and
lighter quality for the skirt and the
slesves and heavier crepe for the
coatee. We really have great many
wonderful materials this season and
this dress is of the sort that can be
made very dressy and very handsome
or perfectly plain and simple as it is
cut from one material or from an
other. A taffeta coatee over white
crepe or wolfe would OF course make
very dressy costume, while the linen
that Is shown here means a pretty
afternoon dress, and if the Bingham
were used, it would be quite appro-
pirate for morning occasions, but
whatever the material, the process Of
making always will be the same and
the directions will be helpful whether
the simplest dress or the most elaborate
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

Now, because the over-blouse or
coat is sleeveless and with loose arm
holes, and little of the under bodice
will be seen, it will be advisable to
face the armhole edges with material
like the sleeves, for we have not made
it of the batiste, but Of lining lawn
which is heavier and better adapted to
the purpose, since the under bodice
must support the skirt. After cutting
the sleeves and the cuffs, there will be
some trimmings of the batiste. Lay
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

T IS doubtful if there is any
other feature of the season
that 10 quite 90 exclusively
It's own az the way in which
silk is utilized. Taffeta and
crepe de chine are made in lin
gerie styles and the foulards are
exceptionally attractive and de-
sirable. The princesse gown
that is shown above exempli-
fes lowered taffeta with trim
ming Of plain and it is very
charming, very summcr-like and
exceedingly dainty. If all silk
is not liked, a similar effect
could be obtained by using silk
ruches on a foundation of cot
ton crepe for the crepes are as
beautiful as silk itself and the
two combine perfectly. The
foulard gown is made with
sleeves of silk wolfe which give
a guimpe effect and the little
girls dress by its side shows a
favorite use Of bordered cotton
wolfe that makes most inter-
esting and attractive feature Of
summer styles.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

I INEN is always hand
some and a desirable ma
terial for summer gowns,
but this year it is exceptionally
attractive for several reasons.
There is a new sort on the
market which is claimed to be
non-crushable, also the linen
is to be found in a really won
derful variety of colors and in
addition, it frequently is COM
bined with crepe and with wolfe
and other materials of lighter
weight, so that in the one fab
ric is to be found much oppor-
tunity. In the picture, are
shown two good models. The
tunic gown is made of white
linen in eyelet style and COM
bined with the same material
in an exquisite shade Of buff.
The costume is a very charm
ing one, eminently smart and
graceful and it also is practical
inasmuch as it is available for
many needs. The transparent
frills Of fine lace make a pretty,
becoming and fashionable finish
for neck and sleeves.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15
ONE Of the NEW COAT DRESSES
e How it is made---told
T. a @a

As a first step in the making OF tie
under bodice or lining, form darts and
to do that, bring the corresponding
lines of perforations exactly together
and basic on the perforations.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-15

Here, they are scalloped and the seal
lops are very pretty, but if that seems
to represent too great labor, you can
bind them with some pretty washable
braid or apply bias strip of material
over all the edges and stitching into
place. Work button-holes on the
right side and sew buttons on the left
side of both the underbodies and the
blouse or coat and the work will
then be completed. Adjust some sort
Of pretty ribbon girdle over the under
bodice, as shown in the picture, in
order to be quite certain that the join
ing of the under bodice and the skirt
will always be hidden from view.
For the II year size the coat and
the skirt will require ~ yds. Of ma
terial linen IS in. wide. which is
favorite width this season; for the
under-bodice will be needed Is yd. SO
in. wide and for the sleeves and the
collar. u yd. 3e in. wide.
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28
FRANZ JOSEPH

When the work of the great giver Israel finished the story rnsfrom the heights of Pisgah he view the promised land toward which for forty years he had been struggling but to reach From his cradle in the burushes up to manood through the years which he acquired all the wisdom of the Egyptians then his call to the leadership of enaved people, his buengs with kings and priests the paes the sorrows the tragedy of the final exit the wanderngs in the wilderness for years the spendo and terror of Sinai the marvellous code under which when advanced enough to learn the necessity of of law and the imperative need of proper sanita ton the trials the rumphs through which he had wrought out immortal fame for himself; this the picture that shone behind him when he climbed Pgah to be before his eyes finally cIose vision of which had dreamed of for his people through the watches of half century
 Reading that magnificent drama ones mind invounarily turns to history of day. Was there dream with more sombre and tragic nts than the life of Franz Joseph of Austria has beenf
 Given empire to ue there doubtless thousands of the worlds rulers the of royal houses who enved him when he ascended the hrone but could there be Psga for him to climb from the crest of which he what the future of his country to be; would not his prayer be
 of is to be sOrrowul and dark and lonely my life has been, spare me from seeing it7''
 He stands today like lonely oak in dead forest The hurricanes of four have beat upon it. forest fires have consumed surrounding trees and blasted its limbs the cyclones swept every bird its branches away the fOsts of have whered its heart scant foliage shrveed and longer is fit for it longer for standing except that proud and brave to fall.
 His beautiful empress assassnated the first rghtfu heir to the throne murdered sucde the second heir his lovely wife assassnaed his brother who hoped an and to make great the redeemer of a dis raced country captured and shot and his lovely empress left hopeless lunatc for whom mercul death waiting disastrous with France another with Prussia years fierce dssensons in his dOminions and involved that threatens the very existence of his empire; what history in all the world is parallel of his2
 Often prostrated by fearful illness, more than once eported dead the spendor of his surroundings mocery lis people dying by tens of thousands support his oterng hrone would think that his prayer by day and by night would be- not for vision of Land of Promise but for the est of that sleep which not vexed by dreams any fear n awakening ,, .g.l.,
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

It's going to pay to open iron mines European battle fields after the Tons of metal being buried by the big guns
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28
WHERE?

Five days ago it cabled that all the day long man army of half million had been pouring through rlin but that its destination profound secret Would hurled upon the rereatng Russians the east to scatter confound them before ammunition could reach thems ,d turn south hurl back the Italians and keep port the Acriatic open for supplies and open communication ough Turkey with Consantnope; would it be sent to once more to shater the allied armies in the west and ke an open way to the west coastf
 The latter the probable plan for none of the others n if successful would be decisive while signal triumph tba west would place both London and Paris in jeopardy le the steady reinforcement of the allies in France unless eky stopped will become menace to all western
 onv which though dotted all with Actresses might m as Belgium suffered under the first onsets of this fearful # the most terrific fighting of the is reported from thern and eastern France during the next few days it q cause no surprise.
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

The testimony indicates that the management of the Iustana inefficient another point of similarity between and the Ttanics The Lusana short of remen and ue and conducted the fatal voyage but boat drill that being unsaactory The evidence further has that the not compeent-ths being the captains tes mony The question going to be raised of these days whether great steamship carrying 2OO passengers shall be allowed to go carrying of neicients is no place experiment with novces. The time soon will come the public will demand capable of trained amply paid and we'll housed.
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28
"sOUND MONEY"

dispatch tells of town in Germany where the people using iron money Those people must have been reading of the learned essays Sound Money put the late Cleveland the late Professor Sumner the Edward Atkinson, the learned Professor Laughin.
 It fine idea Iron does not make light weight dollars no matter whether gold inflated It has other advan tages man cannot carry enough of it down town to get inebrated on with in there would be hold ups there would be no occasion to let thieves go while picion of being hghwaymen or thieves.
 But how funny those essays "Sound Money read under the financial lamp light of today
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

In the line of real public service, who engaged in greater work than the members of the tuberculosis socey7
 It's aim is to e and to prevent sorrow suffering and poverty through the generations Tuberculosis though preventabe and curabe disease continues claim thousands of victims Ignorance is this pague's chief of staff Tho eliminate that ignorance and to replace with the simple nation necessary to lead the afflicted to the of restoring hea and to show the abebodied how to avoid the disease the great work to which the society devoted It saved thousands of lives has restabshed homes happy with the knOweedge that stricken again their feet and checked the spread of the dreadful malady.
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

General Caranzas feet press the pavement where but eceny American sentres paced and fro From his window
 can the spot where the American transport Prairie anchor and hammered down the naval school with her apidfre guns The majestic sight of the American battle auadron off Vera Cruz has been desbed by General Car in picturesque Spanish Truly, romantic surroundings great genera-surroundings which largely may be asponsibe for Citizen Carranzas desire with Pres ent Wilson.
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

The English ambast the Germans for bombardng the unforied towns" the east coast of England while the
 excorate the English for bombardng the unfored Mn' of Karlsruhe, but both go to bombarding War, like
 itics is just damphule thing after another.
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

The party wins in Greece, but the country won't be spilled into the fire for 40 days least parliament will meet until that time has elapsed But fret of the experts the will continue for three years at least and that will be time enough for all of to get into it.
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

The mill men of the Pacific Coast have formed trust Dno the markets of the world outside of the United States
 possessions and dependencies The Sherman anti trust its benign minsratons with the hreemile limit coast And, anyway what boots it if the foreign evs' with plank?
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

The Milwaukee schools putting in billiard and pool tables these being regarded necessary keep wfu youth of mischief Will be proved that the is mghter than the birch?
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

The National Security league, which is endeavorng to Id the nation into investment in heavy guns baeshps etc. given its final and conclusive argument recently when the ou Indians in Mexico declared the United States
The Cordova daily times., 1915-06-28

General Oregon indignantly denies that he is dead just though he expected had real interest in the matter way the otheri
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1915-03-03
To old WASHBURN
Plans Announced Today for
Greatest Commencement.
Record Return of Graduates
and Old Blue Students.
GREAT HISTORICAL PAGEANT
''Indian Days" To Be Put On by
the Topeka Rotary Club.
Four Days of Features for Fiji
tieth Anniversary of School.

Plans for the greatest commence
ment celebration in the history of
WdShburn college, June 6-10, COM
memorative of the founding of the in
stitution half century ago, have been
announced by DIR. Roy B. Guild, chair
man of the committee on arrange
ments- The features are sufficiently
attractive to assure the return of the
largest number of graduates and
former students that have assembled
on the campus in any June.
DR.. Frank K. Sanders will preach
the baccalaureate sermon Sunday
morning, June 6, in large tent that
will be put up on the campus and
that will have a seating capacity of
between 1000 and 1000 persons.
Sunday afternoon a sacred concert
will be given in Washburn chapel. In
the evening there will be addresses to
the associations in the big tent.
Monday will be students Day"
The senior class exercises will be held.
The Dramatic club Will give an out of
door performance in the evening.
Tuesday will be Alumni Day" Ad-
dresses of interest to former students
will be given in the morning and at
noon will come the class reunions.
Wednesday will be "Commemoration
Day''-the big day.
Great Historical Pageant.
The feature will be an elaborate
pageant representative of Kansas and
Washburn history. The first scene
Will De called indian Days, and Will
be put on by the Topeka Rotary club
Free Soil Days will be depicted by
the Women's Federation of Topeka.
The Constitutional Convention will
be given by the students of the law
school.
The fourth event will be ''The
Founding of Washbun College," pre-
scented by the members of the First
Congregational church who had much
to do with the early history of the
institution. This will conclude the
historical record. 1t will be followed
by the fifty year period in which the
college has been successfully operated.
This will be given by the Alumni one
couple representing each year of de-
Velopment.
Some Additional Features.
Nearly 400 persons will participate
that will represent the work of
Washburn college by departments.
Wednesday morning representatives
of various institutions of learning will
bring brief greetings. The principal
address will be delivered by DR.. w. w.
Mckenzie of Hartford. For Wednes-
day evening the faculty recital and
faculty reception are scheduled.
Thursday morning the commence
ment exercises will take place. The
speaker has not been chosen. The
Alumni dinner will be held Thursday
noon.
hymn and commemoration COM
mencement poem written for the oc-
casion. The contest is open to all
students, and the poems will be
judged by the English department of
the college.