davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
FASHIONS AND THEIR ORIGIN

NJ. Pierre Clerget. director OF the
High School OF Commerce. Lyons,
France. says in recent publication of
the Smithsonian Institution. that FASH
ion Is n social custom. transmitted by
imitation or by tradition; that il is n
form Of luxury I'm ornamcntation He
continues by saying that the capriccs
OF fashion are both frequent and sud
den IT is changeable. unreliable, frivol-
Gus, and thrusts aside the most careful
calculations. II dominecrs its universal
following, rcigninG supreme over all
classes OF society in which tho taste for
finery dates well back toward the very
beginning OF the world.
Up to the thirteenth century, women's
costumes were chiefly tunics or robes
marked by natural simplicity, but in
France in the fourteenth and Nfteenth
centuries, under Francis I. and Henry
II dresses were designed TO follow the
lines Of the body. Women then ap-
pcared in fitted doublcts, skirts, and
wraps with collars. The sleeves were
leg and balloon shaped, flied
with plaits or very tight. At the time
or Henry III. the pointed waist was held
in place by stiff corset, and was ac-
companied by puffed sleeves, the dress
already having the hoop petticoat
The reign Of Henry ". brought out
tho great bell skirt built on springs,
which was later found with the crino-
line. The tendency toward fullncss in
the skirt kept increasing until 1905,
bringing some dresses 10 enormous pro-
portions. Then toward the end OF the
seventeenth century the fullness dimn-
ished, giving way to padded dresses
worn under mantle wraps. though re-
appearing again later Reduction in the
size of the skirt continued until about
1850, when fullness again came into
fashion, and by 1855 the skirts were
ridlculously full and expanded with
great hoops. There was another rcac-
ton. and the hoT)skirt gave way. first
to the hustle, and then, in 1893, to the
one piece dress witi no ornamentation.
Greek robes were seen at fctcs and on
the stage. The Directoire dress exag-
gerated tho plated style and resembled
tho trousers skirt of recent date. The
Empire costume with the high waist was
another transformation Of the Direc-
toirc. showing Il tendency to fullness in
tho form.
In 1906 there came more general
style for all classes. Skirts were worn
very full again toward 1910, and, after
passing through all sorts of gradations,
with partial return to fullncss in the
back. this style ended between 1860 and
1865 in the eliminating point of the
crinoline. This marked the departure
from Orientalism and brought us toward
tho epoch Of simple and straight robes,
which continued until tho extreme
clinging gowns wero reached, while to-
day we seem about to revert again to a
more volumlnous style of dress.
Beginning with Worth in 1916, the
best known modiste has been the Gre
ating artist OF fashion. The modste
seeks out the designs. is the forms.
harmonizes the lines and styles. ex-
hibits the models and then the selec-
lions are made by public opinion ex-
!. pressed at tho races at Auteuil and
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
War News Fifty Year, Ago

J. Wilkes Booth. the actor who shot President
Lincoln. Is the second son Of Junius Brutus
Booth and is between twcnty-s and twenty
seven years of age. He born and reared
in Hartford County. Nd. where his father owned
to the stage, but, inspired by the great success
of his brother. Edwin. he went upon the boards
as n member OF a stock company. At tho break
ing out OF tho in '6l, Booth was attached to
the troupe OF Kunkel and Monkey. then playing
at the Marshail Theater. on Broad Street, in
this city. where he appeared under the OF
J. i. Wilkes He went North with the balance
OF tho company and remained there So far as
anybody here knows he never showed
pressed any Southern sympathy; hut II Is known
that he expressed decidedly antislavery scnti-
mentS
like n hive with business and activity, hut which
have been deserted for some time. begin TO
wear their old time aspect. Drays I'LL the streets
again, and boxes. barrels and packages the side
walk. while men with locomotive energy move
about with velocity that Is conta gious.
Under the orders and tho supervision OF the
military authorities. large forces OF negroes ara
opening up Cary Street. removing the debris. so
that that thoroughfare may again become the
busy trading street 1t used to be. The military
folks Will not let the negroes they feeding
lie around in ideness. and Sambo has learned
that his freedom does not with 1T the
loafng. do-nothing life he looked for He Is
not enjoying his freedom in Richmond alto
gether as much as he Mt first expected
The Richmond. fredericksburg and Potomac
Railroad has been opened for traffic to the South
Anna River. and trains commenced running yes
terday. There will he two passenger trains
each way per day. All passengers have to have
passports
Yesterday n number OF Confederate officers
and soldiers came into Richmond and gave them
selves up. among them Captain Callahan, late
commandant Of Castle Thunder post Edward
Fowlkcs and Mr.. Timbcriake. late clerk the
same institution. They were footsore. weary
and downcast
The State bell in the Dollhouse on Capitol
Square is now made to strike the hours day and
night. the military governor having ordered.
The markets, far supply is concerned,
have greatly improved, but extortionate prices
stnl continue to he charged for everything
offered for sale. Old habits are hard to be
overcome.
There is news from General Johnston's
army: nothing but rumors that cannot be traced
to any reliable by and by tho telegraph
wires VIII be In working order, and we then
get some news before it is weeks old.
It is said that rowing bands OF negroes. robbing
and pillaginE In York and Gloucester Counties
| have become terror to the people OF those
counties The military authorities will take tho
| matter in hand and the rowing negroes
| down.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
Some Disagrccablc Facts

It HIS country will not accept without fur
Their evidence the statement that the ma
tional banks in the United States, as whole
are behind the Riggs Bank, in that institu-
TONS controversy with the Secretary of the
Treasury and the Comptroller Of the Cur
rency. lntimations OF this sort go out from
Washington. but they will be taken, it is
likely, with a suitable number of grains of
salt.
Whatever the facts Of the situation gen
orally may be and wherever justice lies. It
must be admitted that the revelations that
have followed the Investigations the comp
troller has conducted at the Riggs Bank are
not exactly pleasing. Dummy loans to Of
fcers, conduct OF a brokerage and real estate
business within the bank and with its money,
and disingenuousness, TO say the least, in
reporting some Of these transactions, do not
comport with bankng's highest ideals
National banks in other communities will
he somewhat slow. imagine, to give these
activities their approval
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19

earned as pastor Of the North Ashland
Avenue Evangelical Church. Chicago
he has bought and paid for coy
home In Logan Square. lie has brought
UP four children, given each OF them
good education, with plenty TO eat
and wear. He has also helped many
in distress and has contributed liber-
ally to church enterprises. The family
is free from debt, because they have
lived simply and unostentntiously. and
have paid cash for everything
we have made II a rule to eat good
Wholesome food and have plenty Of it,
said the Rev. MIR. Strickfadcn, Ito keep
savings account and to economic in
small matters as we'll as large ones"
Mrs. Strickfadcn has always done
her own cooking and sewing. She early
learned the value OF simple, we'll
balanced meals varying the menu each
day so that there is never rnonotony
in tho diet.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
The University OF Wisconsin

ment. and the University of Wisconsin
in trouble. reaction was about due in
Badger Commonwealth, for political
theories had been pushed too far for some
limo past. 1t is human nature to overdo
everything; when are unreformed we are
very unreformed, and when we begin to re-
form we want to reform everything at once.
Some OF us imagine that all tho ills of
humanity can be cured by passing laws
The University OF Wisconsin made itself
conspicuous in Wisconsin legislation of re-
cent years. The university had a finger in
every pie. AS natural consequence when
the Progressive movement cut cropper the
university found itself unpopular.
The university's crisis shows more plainly
than any other test the incstimable value Of
the great institution at Madison. The whole
country views with alarm the prospect Of
cutting off OF its activities. IncomparabIy
The most important thing about Wisconsin
is the University of Wisconsin, MS the gen
eral interest in It's fate proves The common
sense of the Wisconsin people will prevent
any serious injury TO one Of the most nota BILE
OF American seats OF learning and the uni
Nersity Will emerge from its fluctuations a
Lutte more cautious but not bit less help
lui To it's State
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
New York and the Direct Tax

M AYOR mitchell, Of New York has
1FI demonstrated what we have always be-
lieved and that is that the direct tax in New
York State Is unnecessary. Governor Whit
man has savagely insisted upon It. but ap-
parently largely for the purpose Of discredt-
ing the Democratic administration preceding
him.
Mr.. Mitchell points out that $4,000. 900
might be saved by emitting canal construc-
ton, 100000 by eliminating new appro-
priations, S3,500,000 by dropping construc-
ton bills and S1,500,000 by reducing road
appropriations for the year. This makes
total Of S1S,50O,000. which might be saved
the State without seriously hampering the
work OF the government.
There is reason to cut down the expendi-
lures in New York, since they are growing
enormous. So far from being reduced by
separation from local tax levies, the funds of
New York State were never large as at
present. But expenditures have advanced
with colossal strides. The appropriations by
the Legislature OF 1914 amounted to $49,-
900, 600. The appropriations for this year
reach the great sum of s69,7S5,000. The
actual necessary increase over last year
Mayor Mitchell estimates at S2,5O0,OOO, but
instead Of this modest increase, the present
Legislature has voted an increase of
s20,000,00O
OF this amount. $4,000, 900 must be
raised by direct tax on real estate. Since
New York City real estate is heavily bur
dcncd for city purposes, this new tax comes
as veXatious imposition. According to
Mayor Mitchell, 1t is an entirely unnecessary
imposition. New York State IS paying a
heavy price for the return Of Republican rule.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19

Longchamp. The complete results OF
these races told in the Paris papers Of
ten omit the most important feature OF
the day-thc birth OF a new fashion
Once created there is haste to mako
known the new fashion. and since il is
no more feature OF the royal courts
where once IL reflected the personal de-
sire and VIII OF the Sovercigns, to-day
The styles are made public BY models
at the race courses. on the streets. on
the stage. and at social functions. and
particularly at the theatcrs. where tho
dress OF the ultra social set is laying
an increasing role.
The influence OF the costumes in GER
tain operas and plays has been felt
10 considerable degree. Literature
has also been n great inspiration rs
shown ny Louis Maigron's book, "Ro-
inan;is-nc e. IL Mode" which says, "ro-
manticism creeps from books into daily
life through social diversions" The
masquerade thus makes some pre-
tensions OF reconstructinE fashions his
tory by appealing to old cngravings for
AID In costuming. There are many
other influences to which the trend oe
fashion may lay claim: military uni
forms. foreign costumes. sports, and re-
ltSiouS beliefs. Fashion does not limit
its field TO dress alone: It affects art.
architecture. literature. furniture. trav-
el, sports, Undressing and even So
cial custom and demcanor.
1t has affected many Industries caus-
ing great increase or decrease in the
demand for, and the selling prices OF,
FUR. plumes. jcwelry, toys. artificial
lowers, perfumcry, false hair, rice
powder and rouge. within n period OF
but few years. 1t has created one in
dustry and done away with another by
displacing its products: but at the
same time it has impcded tho new one
by demanding immediate results re-
CARELESS of the cost OF installation OF
new machinery and new materials
! thus tending toward inferior. quail
ties which are not durable.
Despite its abuse and demands, it
seems that we cannot do without fash
ion: we follow 1t willingly, most Of US
welcoming it's changes. Obviously we
cannot do away with it; that was at
tempted by religious, royal, and civil
laws years ago, and found Of no prac-
tical avail; so that we accept 1t for
what it is worth.
Fashion has become n scientific atudy.
| and liz approaching an art Tho an
pcarancc of new style of garment Is
the visible sign that a transformation
is taking place in the intellect. Gus
toms and business of a people; the rise
of nations has been so indicated MAX
ing fashion n subject of ethnologic in
terest 1t has also been remarked that
where the Same style OF clothing has
been used for centuries, as among bar
barous peoples, civilization remains
practically stationary, but on the other
hand, In Europe one sees evidences of
great comfort and rapid progress in the
evolutions of fashion, marking n state
OF high civilization
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
LITTLE TALKS ON THRIFT
Ono of the Days Best Cartoons.
By S. w. STRAUS
hryia<Uf american Socier for T11I0

For breakfast the family has
cereal oranges or grapefruit. or other
fruit in season, bread, butter. coffee
Their luncheons are mainly made
from left-ovcrs from other meals. and
their dinners usually consist OF 4
broilcd or baked or stewed piece OF
meat, usually beef. or fish. with vcge-
tables. bread. butter and some simple,
easily dircstcd dessert as. for instance,
rice. sage or a custard.
From the French people we may
learn many lessons in economy and
fruEali,y. They do not waste a thing
They have positive genius for u;iliz-
ing everything. The French peasant.
for instance. gathers up the twigs and
branches from the trees, which we
Americans consien TO a bonfire, and
these he ties neatly into bundles and
sells for kindlinC.
All scraps OF food and every bit OF
the vegetable is used by the French
cooks. For instance. the French house
wife never throws away the water
which is drained from vegetables in
boiling. This Is saved and put in her
stock pot" 10 form the bas sis OF soups
and also every scrap of suct and Fat is
saved and used for frying.
The American in nine cases out OF
ten viii use butter at 40 cents n pound
perhaps. when suet and beef fat are
very much better.
Also tho French cook knows the
value OF the cheaper cuts OF meat
She utilizcs the tops of bccts and eel
cry, thrown away in many American
homes. for making salads. and to rive
a tang 10 her rravies aud made over
dishes. Let US take these lessons home
to ourselves.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
SpOttinp IIucrtn

It HEY say private detectives arc watching
l Hucr,a-you remember, iiuerta. the
man who was President OF Mexico Just after
Madero and before villa Carranza and
%apata?-and that IIuerta is planning a re
turn to Mexico when-ah, there is tho
thrilling story
Huerta is in New York, which is nearer
home than Diaz found It possible 10 visit
Huerta is in Gotham, gay giddy, gregarious
guzzing Gotham. lie is there with his
secretary and his press representative. and
they do say he is biding the time when Uncle
sam viii invade Mexico, when will be the
signal for all factions to unite and repel tho
invader. whereupon Ohio yarn grows mcrrier
and mcrrierD Mexico will welcome Iiuerta
10 deliver MS beloved country from the in
soient dictation OF the gringo Pleasant,
isn't It?
We can just see Victorien or whatever his
name is-events move so swiftly In Mexican
history that names slip US going back TO the
land Of trouble to adjust things We can
imagine this latest iooter OF the public
treasury being The gentleman nearest and
dearest 70 tho heart OF reunited Mexico and
70 Aan SOS him yananty standing by tho
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19

Ideas OF tho rights and privileges of private
property The result was that corporate wealth
took possession OF government In these States
notably In Rhode Island. and 1t did not scruplc
10 iortity ITS powers by all methods which were
within tho law, or were made possible by no
law The supremacy of public men of tho
Aldrich type began before even secret ballot
acts served to safeguard tho franchise against
venalty Mt tho polls. Crude was our system of
protecting the purity OF elections, while I'm
Rhode Island certain antlquated constitutional
forms. suited only to tho earlier agricultural
needed reforms. So many changes have taken
place within ones memory to remedy the evils
associated with tho regime that is dead that, as
seems possible to say that while no was tho
natural product OF his time, his sort has died
with it.-Springfeld Republican,
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19

guns with his private flag waving. telling
the American marines to keep out OF Vera
Cruz.
But NIL the same. while the picture is
pleasing If we were Huerta's closest friends,
we should say to him, contldeutially and be-
hind the door: "Huerta, don't you do It,
You got out while the running was good, and
you're fixed to stay a long time. Now you
just lie low and invest in Long Island swamps
and sell 'em to suckers, that's what you do"
And Huerta, if he were truly appreciative,
would take us warmly by tho hand and say:
"Amigo'--we believe that's the way they
say it-"Amigo, gracas' Perhaps he will
take another tack-but that will prove
simply how easy it is to go wrong
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
Urges Free Car Rides for Veterans.

To the Editor of The Times Dispatch:
Sill am n frequent reader of your paper,
and have noted with much interest all that ma 3
appeared concerning the Confederate Reunion to
be held in Richmond In June
:, W men the honored gray warriors gather in
their capital city to dedicate a lasting memorial
TO the Lost Cause. it should be. not only the
duty, but the desire and pleasure OF all South
erners and especially Of every person IN that
city, to contribute In any way TO their comfort
and pleasure, and to extend to them every posi-
Bile courtesy.
This Will perhaps be tho first time that many
nave seen the beloved city since II was evacuated
last tne Tor many more Old Southampton has
set noble example in appropriatinE funds for
paving the expenses to the reunion OF all
veterans within her boundaries. and going
10 take the liberty OF making the following sug
gcStion to Richmonuers through your paper
why not arrange with the street railway com
Dany. Tor reasonable sum paid them, to le,
the gray uniform or badge. or veteran be Il
pass on all car lines? Surely the Virginia
i PASSENGER and Power Company will gladly
glad to start n public contributing fund and l.
ior one. viii deem 1t 4 privilege to be among the
first contributors. "
Should the suggestion not appeal to you as
nelnS entirely practical. at least hope tina [
some idea may grow out OF 4 that will give
IN our ,h aging heroes additional for feel
Will always hold her , defenders Of ,6I -'sa
New Orleans, April 49, 1915
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
The Voice of the People
Help for the Boys OF nIchmond.

To the Editor of The Times D!spatch
Sir;-That was an Inspiring article in this
mornings paper anent the activities OF the
'ncwSieS' OF baltimore and the handsome tribute
and wise counsel OF our good President of these
united states to those little merchants OF tho
street: am glad The Times Dispatch made the
incident the occasion OF an editorial. since it
an evidence on your part OF interest In the
newsies" SO greatly needed and so gladly well
coined by those OF who arc trying to do
something worth while for this much neg lectcd
class. permlt mo to add here that
which It was noticed. you recently exploited in
let us cultivate their back lots--somc have
1ne91"iraEed us by offers OF help-but the
to PVT the fences around the back yards in a
CONDITION to keep out tho chickens buy n few
seeds and garden implements. May / not hope
me Times, dispatch Will occasionally give tho
project n boost? What wonderful helm Won
could be TO us few struggling for the upiift Of
Inc boy OF the street, should you deem il worth
while TO champion our cause! The Boys club
t t hhienmond Is hopeful some few will respond
sink" IOIiiS T. lpARIIantu"'
Richmond. April 15 1915
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
SONGS AND SAWS
Wrong Sort Of Dryners.

Wrong Sort OF Dryness.
Thomas Atkins was heard to declare
That he cared not what he had to wear
But It's raw i must state"
Grumbled Tom to his mato.
THAT they plan to cut out all my beer
You'll observe that these trenches arc dnmp
And that wotncss pcrvades tho whole camn
SO ! feel IN this bog,
That the hair OF the dog
Helps a lot on charge or a tramp"
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
Queries and Answers
CcntimeterE.

CcntimeterE.
D. G.. MILLER.
About sixteen and n half inches.
Fair In War.
Is 1t fair for country to make Of tho
flag OF another in war? Did not German
cruiser use false flag some tini~ ago?
READER.
1t is regarded to be fair" to use the flag Of
the enemy, not that of neutral nation
The accounts OF the transaction not clear.
Verses Wanted.
Some time you printed 1.-THE Cry OF the
Dreamer" How may get copy? L. Il. L.
Will some reader kindly send 1t?
Literary.
How should manuscripts be sent to maya
zines? What Is tho average pay for accepted
manuscripts? CURIOUS.
Typewrltten and packed Nat. There Is no
average
What positions give tho best opportunities for
travel in the United States and abroad?
w. L. S.
In the United States probably that OF post
ofioe inspector; abroad that OF inspector Of
oonsulates.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
Chats With Virginia Editor,

ihose herman cruisers informed In Virginia
waters are going to rumpus between
the Hampton Roads cities yet. Note the fol-
lowing shots: We feel very sorry for tho
Irh" Iitel In that she Is interned at Newport
News."-Memphis Commercial Al peal This f.
respectfully passed on, without comment to our
esteemed contemporary the other side of the
Roads-the Newport News Times Herald
Norfolk Virgnan-Pilot. "Of course! It would
be distressngly irritating for 1.-Two crew to
be condemned to n life OF inactivity in this live
and progressing town. Hence in tender con-
sheraton of the gallant commander of the E!tel
and his crew, tho authorities In Washington
buried them in Norfolk."-Newport News Times
Herald.
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
Natural Confusion

viii YOU be good enough to tell me-" ask cd
the agEriered wife, why. when you came In
last night-or this mornng-you hung your
shoes on the hall rack and brought your hat
upstairs and placed 1T under tho bed?"
considering the circumstances. replfed tho
amateur diplomat. that was an entirely reason
able thing for mo to do. You see went TO
one or Shaws plays last evening, and even after
l reached home ] entirely sure whether
was standing on my head or my feet"
Richmond times-dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1914-current, 1915-04-19
At the 1'hcater,

Grubbs--I notice that man the end OF tho
row lodges every time the comedy juEgler
do you explain that?
Stubbs-oh. that's easy enough. The man In
tho end scat Is 4 baseball umpire, and lodging
pop bottles is regular incident of his daily
life.