The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-06-06

NfllNIIL INV " 'i'ii' '''N
wear dclcct,h,e enough hut
amt1i : tor an that and rad
caIly new. 1t'y suggest awful OPP
,ortuni,io+ for caricaturo when worn
hy the vr,rD vomau but on the other
hand the rirhj will he charm
ing !n thtm and there YOU are
Fashion makers cannot he held re-
srnp.'Ic rur every shoppers faults If
t3s,o.
The curious thing about many ~
these newest collars is their ErohdiS-
nagian character. They are not
merely hig. The, are enormous. and
whether thoii material soa-e upward
or droops downward it spurns accus-
toned limitations.
There is, for instance. n collar OF
sheer orcandy or of lawn which rises
high and close around the throat, has
lip rundown ears at the sides and a
fiat little Cipclikc extension rounding
mn ,o tho collar base in front but
living down over shoulders and around
the back. Wide tatfcta ribbon Is
drawn around this collar. stockwisc.
md tied i'm = how at the back, the
width Of the ribbon and its crispncss
making the two short loops Of this
bow very imposing imposing TO the
poln' 1T almost ob,itcratinc the back
of the couture. Two ends of the rih-
bon fall almost to the waist line.
And then there Is the cavalier COL
lar. whose fat cape quite hidcs inc
shoulders and falls low in 'front.' ana
back. while over this ape fails n run
Mating of the organdv wider at back
than at front and standing out from
the throat. This plating is
on a little sloping band toward the
back. So that II rises slightly against
the napc of the neck, while turning
away from the base of the throat IN
front.
The Puritan collar appears in all
degrees II size. some of the orSandy
modes being made double. one layer
lying smoothly over the other and the
no,nts of the lower one reaching
almost, to- the waist line in front.
\ very deep plated frill falling from
The throat base quite to the shoulder
po,nts and corrcspondinSly low al
around Is another newcomer. as Is tho
porfectlv fiat collar on the same lines
the two edges meeting al the Nay up
the front instead of separating III
poin,s. as do the fronts of The collar
moro generally accented as Puritan.
Modes are amusing Phenomena.
Cr,y a short time AGO an American
journal embarked upon an American
f,fh.n,s campaign exploited very en-
thus is,irul'y collars Of the puritan
Cuaf,r and cavalier types. hut pro-
CIc,d not = ripple upon the taSh'"n
,ur,oui %uw suddenly. whether he-
,gIs, c~loNcrly launched or authorlti-
tlvc'v sponsored or because the TIM"
f. riue. 80 have an avalanche NJ su'h
col ar-. aad they are accepted with
enthusiasm
The cape form collar. rising only to
The base Of the throat an rourd -
vastly trying to most women to all
save those vine have lovely and youth
ful throats-bu he deep Puritan cape,
slnpiuG downward I'm front and falling
r. two points. Is more becoming ana
has a fetching occurrences about H.
though II * likely 10 he overdone in
the form in which IL Is especially
popular the utterly untrimmcd collar
Of organdN.
The deep pointed fronts Of this same
Nat collar are in some instances com
h;ncd with 4 very deep square back.
covering the entire bodice hack and
reaching down to the waist line.
Another big collar has large plated
s,,,o,,- taffFr,v I.'h IN fVRnf ard in
back from a rolling collar that opens
slightly low in front.
4 comparatively narrow Puritan
collar mounted on a high hand, so
tina, It comes high on the neck, turn
ing down with a flare all around, the
two edges meeting in front, is another
expression Of this Colonial period
tendency. hut this collar thickens the
neck most unhecomingly and is for
the few.
Ard. apropos Of R~rohdignacian
nockwcar. there are tho ruChes of
tulln. Some Of them are quite tre-
mondous. though their airiness keeps
them from hulkiness. The most he
coming reserve thor soaring amhi-
tons for the hack, rising high around
the back NJ the head and falling well
out over the shoulders, but suhSidlng
n little in front. Others. however,
are very high all around, quite hiding