The Washington herald., 1915-03-14
By MARGARET WADE.

BY MARGARET WADE.
With an early Easter just three weeks
away. and the tide of travel sweeping
northward from Palm Beach. Augusta.
and Aiken fashions of the spring and
summer assume definite form The I'M
certainty surrounding the width of the
skirt, the height of the collar. of the
length of a sleeve, that made feminine
apparel something to be reckoned with
in all seriousness by the commercial
world. has adjusted itself in the last
few weeks, at least for the wary. The
Jared skirt will continue to flare as
shown in dance frocks at $50, worn by
Mrs. Alfred Vanderbilt. to the sl6.& tai
fetas of tn" bargain window variety.
For the woman who declines this sudds n
change of silhouette there will remain
skirts narrow at the hem and in some
places slas shed into the bargain.
Lady Spring Rice" wife of the British
Amha ssad"r. while taking no part in
large affairs and receiving only n:r
,iosest personal friends and associates OF
the diplomatic circle. is wearing a mo Il
ish dcn1i toilet of velvet satin that shows
the new use Of beads on handsome gowns
intended for afternoon well as even
ing wear. This gown. presumably made
in London has n skirt that is neither
very wide or very narrow. 1t touches the
ground in front and has a short train.
There is a slightly draped effect across
the front. but the most distinctive fea-
ture is the border of beaded passemen-
terie in matching tones that goes COM
pletely about the edge of the skirt. The
bodice has bands OF this beaded trim
ming forming reveres opening from a
soft underhodiCe of cream lace. finished
in the new high stock collar. The sleeves
arc long and close and Of the satin.
The. shortage of dye stuffs. given as
ono reason for the failure of American
manufacturers to produce the new sum-
mer tones in silks and musiins. is ap-
pa rentlv not affecting the. woman who
even in war times imports her gowns
readv-to-wcar from the Rue de Ia PaiX,
or Avenue d" rODera.
Blues Of a decidedly new tone. t0matOe
I.ds orange and taupe are all shown not
only in TN" velvet gowns imported in
January. hut in the new satin and taffeta
ucaves and in the reinforced tulle which
formed considerable part of the smart
evening gowns worn at the southern re-
s"rts aud destined for dinner wear in
WASHINGTON. in the pust-Lenten season.
Mrs Harry I.ehr. who recently returned
r"r a second weekend visit to Mr. and
Mr. Ferry Belmont. and to dine with
10 Russian Ambassador and Nine. BaLh
Incfcff wore one Of the latest blue
gowns. a deep sapphire shad" of tullr
, ov"red with soquins of the same tone.
Like. ill Of Mrs. Lehr's dinner gowns.
this made with a train. hut unlike
MANY If tn" gowns earlier in the season.
il was not sleeveless. in as much as il
rad angC! sleeves Of blue tull. falling
t" tho end Of the skirt. To larry out the
color scheme Mrs Lehr wore necklace
and tiara Of sapphircs and diamonds
fully AS handsome as the famous tiara
and necklace Of Mm", Rakhmetef.
'r"rr..~ dark blue gown covered in mid |
light blue SeGuins worn recently at a
Washington dinner party. was that OF
Mrs Robert Cassatt. of Philadelphia. |
Thi~ showed the, compromise in skirts al |
ready mentioned. There was tulle |
skirt laid in close plaits that Was round |
aud short AZ any of the tube skirts OF |
the last two seasons. This trimmed |
ia three rows Of two-inch ribbon velvet |
mat ching the tule in color. Tine train |
was Of the jettcd tUlle, was also the |
irdicc. The latter was draped over pink |
satin. This introduction of pink under |
IN" transparent bodice of gown. what I
ever the color may he. is one of the latest /
wrinkles that emphasized its right to |
Irulite attention at Palm Beach during |
: h.. past month.
MIS- 'Tt-pl St W. tlltIlu. vie OIL rep
!"Sentative FairChid. of New York, is
wearing a very handsome toilet of black
Satin rloth-Of-slvcr and jetted net The |
foundation shirt is the Cloth-of-silver.
tn" drapery is the j"tted net. the net
icing applied in long. slender motifs about |
;hc front. and low at the side of the
"V"rdress. The train. which is narrow.
."nG. and cut square across the end. is
81 black satin. The bodice is of lace.
with lac" sleeves. in which the jet motifs
"f til" not skirt drapcry ar" repeated.
TT" h"djc'. drapery of lace is particu-
lHrlv smart. forming N-shaped plas-
from in front. on which rests n superb
ornament Of saprhires set in platinum.
Mrs. FaIr"hid also wears a necklace Of
i'"arIs among the handsomcst in Wash
lngf"n.
Miss Mari" puryee. Of New York. who