The Ronan pioneer. [volume] (Ronan, Mont.) 1910-1970, 1915-04-09

ton Says Leg of Mutton Sleeves ane
! Founced Skirts Are Seen In Fres
Goes of $500 Years Ago-Oriein O
Styles.
| Washington --There are no sucl
things as new styles i'll Women's fash
ions, according to Pierre Clerget, di
rector of the high school Of commerce
Of Lyons, France, as it appears by the
annual report Of the Smithsonian insti
tuition.
Pierre Clerget after reviewing fash
ions from the days of the Egyptians tc
the present time shows that many
new styles for 1915 We're known In
the period b. G.
"An English ai'chaeologist MIR. Ev
ans writes NJ. Clerget, found in the
Mycenaean palace Of Knossos in Crete
some frescocs painted 1,4CO years be.
fore our era showing ladies of the
court clothed in Respondent garments,
with enormous leg of mutton sleeves
held to the neck by Il marrow ribbon:
their hounced skirts, orDamented with
embroidered bands, are expanded be-
hind by enormous bustles.'
Thus is the bubble of the modern
"creation' of styles pricked.
1t was during the reign of Francis 1.
and Henry H., in the fourteenth and
fifteenth centuries, that Women's
gowns took on lines conforming to the
body, having previously been chiefly
tunics or robes. Women then appeared
with fitted doublets, skirts and wraps
with collars. And this, says the author,
was "the starting point of fashion
which will sleep only for perpetual re-
awakening, making evolutions in irreg-
ular cycles at the will of its creators.
'Thc reign of Henry w. brought us
the great bell skirt. built on springs,
which we find later with the crinolne,"
he says. "Then toward the end of the
seventeenth century the fulness dimin-
ished, giving way to padded dresses
Reduction in the size of the skirt CON
tinued until about 1850, when fulness
again came into fashion, and by 17So
the skirts were ridiculously full. There
gave way first to the hustle. then to
he one piece gown.
"Skirts We're very full again toward
1910 and. passing through all sorts of
sraduations, with partial return to
fullness in the back ended In 1860 and
1865 in the eliminating point Of the
This marks the departure
rom orientalism and brings us toward
he epoch when very simple and
straight robes were worn, until we
each the other extreme. the clnging
gown, not forgetting the harem skirt
III exaggerated revised edition Of the
'ccentricities of the period from 1903 tt
1915"
And so the cycle revolves.
After outlining the effect upon styles
eXerted first by monarchs and then
more recently by mo1listes. NJ Clerget
gives On expose of the manner i'm which
many styles are created and of the
trille often necessary for their coming
into being.
Any striking idea may inspire !,
Iipe all fashionable young men of the
capital wanted their trousers plated at
the hips like those of the African
chasseurs. Troradero ribbons became
the rage az; a souvenir of the VOYAGE
Of the Duke of Angouleme to Spain.
and the Itusso-Japanese war gave us
the kimono. 1t is to the passion for
sports that we owe the English STYLES,
the success of the tailor made costume.
the fashion for furs and leather gar.
ments
Literature also has been a great In
spiration, as shown by the works OF
Victor Hugo. The use of white mus
ms was the inspiration of Taglioni, as
We're the waves of the Danube taf |
'ctas, while Alfalfa collars and the
Marie Stuart hats were successiyely |
worn.
And, while we have spoken up to
his point simply of clothing, we should |
not think that this is the limit of fash |
on's domain. 1t controls conversation. I
he manner Of walking, how to shake .
lands. Such word as 'epatant (stun.
llng) owes to fashion its recent admit [
ance to the Dictionary of the Acade-
n.y. The general use of such a drink /
S tea, the abandonment of wine in
ertain circles, vegetarianism, may all
e regarded as fashions. The passion .
or travelling and for sports becomes
there is less taste for
ome, there is less desire for books and /
Interior ornaments.
what are the economical results of
ashion?" asks M. Clerget And his
nswer is MANY and varied"
Changing fashions, he points out,
end to aid first one commercial branch
hen another, and so ON indefinitely.
n the matter of materials. he says,
he demand is growing greater for
heaper stuffs of poorer quality and
ISIS durability.
But greatest Of all sins which can be
lid at the door Of fashion is that In-