davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1915-07-25

normal waist line by a deep sash of
satin ribbon. This model prevails now
at the smart seashore places and is
close rival to the American summer
uniform, which consists of a white
linen skirt and blouse.
And now about stripes and checks
There is no way to avoid them. no mat
ter how conservative you are. but do
yet every one has them. 1t is always
thus with striking fashions. That these
blazing designs have their place in the
schemes of summer dressing, one ad-
tain activities. 1t may be that the win
ter will allow women to wear woolen
suits or skirts with stripes three inches
wide and coats of solid colors. but one
hopes not. At present the fashion has
not gone that far. but some serious
liberties are taken with it.
For all sport uses, for the garden. in
the house during the day, on the piazza
Of informal country clubs, the skirts
with the enormous stripes of black
and white. or colors. look well. The
blouse is white, the sweater. or linen
infantry Jacket, is in bright color, the
hat of cretonne or white felt has a cre-
tonne flower pasted in the front. The
ensemble is admirable, and makes up
one Of the most fetching summer
country costumes we have had for
decades.
run to ground is the Judgment of the
experts in the business of making and
selling clothes. They are worn. it is
true. but far too many of them are ex-
h1bited to please the taste of women
who like to look a bit different from
their neighbor. AS the shops are filled
with vast variety of models. all in
selling at a small price, one realizes
that 1t is usually the end of fashion.
Black and white has kept its prestige
beyond all the other stripes. especially
when the lines are small and not glar-
ing. In truth. there is ever growing
favoritism for the Vienna effects, or
the MARITIME schemes, as we call them,
because the Paris house made them
popular. Despite the fact that the
artists who arrange the new stage dec
orations draw heavily upon this black
and white commingling. the dressmak-
ers keep 1t up also.
One of the newest productions on the
summer stage, in which the Viennese
artist Joseph Urban has worked mir
acles In decorations. produces a widely
copied costume in mixture of black
and white stripping. The stripes go
fiat sailor hat they are differently ar
ranged. the fine lined stockings in the
same colors have horizontal stripping,
and the uppers to the pumps show their
stripes going around. Sounds amazing
ly ugly. but 1t Is amazingly pretty.
~
The circular skirt brought its own
troubles to the expert dressmaker and
1t came down on the average dress
maker like an avalanche of trouble Tn
no way could she guarantee that the
hem would keep its even length after
two weeks wearing. She had heard
that the crafty Frenchwoman deliber-
ately cut the hens uneven, giving no
cause for complaint, but she also knew
that many American women did not
like this ragged look around the ankles |
Light at last broke in on the new trick, |
which consists in putting a circular
dounce of coarse net beneath the hem
of skirt that is not of woolen cloth, |
and binding Its edge with a thick
cable of silk The net hangs as deep
as the deepest point. The effect is |
excellent
Evening star., 1915-07-25
RuChingS.

I'd UCHINGS OF silk. pinked usually
~ at the edges, are used for trim
ming midsummer frocks OF taffeta.
These ruchings are widely used on
taffeta petticoats. as they give the
necessary body at the bottom of the
skirts to hold them out about the
ankles.
Evening star., 1915-07-25

NEW YORK, July "a.
&" ACTS and theories, philosophy
In and retrospection are current
anent the trend of fashion at
q this moment.
Those who are interested in women's
apparel from many viewpoints find the
subject always enlivening, sometimes
exhilarating. never really dull. The
layman who regards clothes as some
thing to keep one from getting arrested
by reason of going without them. can
never see the subject in its true pro-
portions. 1t is when you see all
around frocks that they become part of
q huge wheel, gayly colored, which.
constantly revolving. brings fame and
fortune and failure to those engaged
in the creating, the selling and the
wearing Of clothes. Today, as In Feb
ruary and IN last August. one pays
tribute to those Paris designers, those
weavers and colorists who have gone
on with the creating of ideas in the
sound of the cannon. But the story OF
France in the first war she has faced
as a united republic is repeated in every
phase of her life, and the making of
garments for American women is only
one tiny segment of the whole.
She is now beginning to show the
clothes she has created to the Ameri-
can buyers who went through the war
zone to bring back what is authorita-
tive to the American trade. Today we
barely know what the new fashions
are. Tomorrow we will see them. The
day after we will wear them. Then the
continent will CODv them,
For ourselves. we have still two
months of warm weather to face. with
the problem Of making our clothes last
or buying new ones that will not
shrek too loudly with the incoming
ones, if by chance or necessity we must
wear them through october. The idea
of saving garments until another sea-
son, let 1t be parenthetically said. Is
srn efficiency has dealt severely.
Some Of the facts about present and
promised fashions are that the prevail
ing silhouette will remain with us
kinds of full skirts. each designer
drawing a large following. and the
world being able to use whichever It
pleases; jackets will be very long and
will be avoided by those who strive
for good lines. The waist promises to
remain where 1t should be and give
little trouble. and the sleeves will lit
orally eat up material. which is as 1t
should be from the manufacturers and
merchants point of view.
Which brings up another poignant
fact to the consumer. which Is that
there will be strong demands made up
on the purse in the purchasing of even
one frock from now on. Nowhere is
there shown any idea of saving the
consumer money. The home dress
maker has to buy from ten to twelve
yards of material where she once
bought six yards
It is easy to count up for yourself
how the needed amount of fabric for
one gown has doubled or tripled in the
last few weeks since four-yard skirts
are minimum width. and sleeves billow
out from shoulder to wrist. since lin
ings are needed to give first aid to the
swirling fabric at the ankles. and often
transparent materials are used that re-
quire two and three layers superim-
posed.
Evening star., 1915-07-25
Silk and Worsted Hat.

G MART sports hat is made Of pale
~ blue silk. stitched with big, coarse
stitches in q thick white worsted.
Two nat little ng-shaped decora-
lions are worked in yellow worsted st
the front and the back Of the brtm.
Evening star., 1915-07-25

leaves. unique centerpiece is in a
floral and checkerboard pattern. The
nowers and leaves are introduced in
four clusters. stamped in blue. red. vel
low and green and the checkerboard
design in black and white squares. The
flowers and leaves are outlined in COL
ors to match the tinting. with centers
embroidered in black The entire de-
sign is outlined in black.
Evening star., 1915-07-25

Watermelon Salad.
While a dead ripe watermelon is far
too good to have its natural flavor sub
stracted from or added to, disappoint-
ing melon, insipid and tasteless may
still serve a useful purpose as a salad.
Break up the pink portion lightly with
silver fork, pile on heart leaves of
lettuce and dress with mayonnaise.
Watermelon Rind Preserve.
Watermelon rind preserves may be
added to the winters store of old time
sweets with but little additional ex-
pense. Pare of the green part Of the
rind. and all the reddish part. Cut into
small squares, triangles or strips and
cover with boiling water using a cup of
salt to a gallon of water. Let stand
twenty-four hours. then take up the
rind and rinse thoroughly in clear
water. Put in the preserving kettle.
cover with fresh water and bring slow
ly to a scald. Cook gently until some
what tender. not mushy. then rinse
Evening star., 1915-07-25

cellar or ice box, the best way to cool a
melon is to wrap 1T in a wet blanket
and put 1t for couple of hours in
place where the wind will blow over 1t
without allowing the sun to strike it.
To Serve a Watermelon.
Have the melon well chilled, then split
in two lengthwise and with a vegetable
scoop or tablespoon, using rotary
motion, cut out individual cones Of lus-
cious, scarlet flesh; arrange on a low
glass dish or platter, on a bed of grape
leaves or on individual dessert plates.
Another way is to cut the melon cross
wise in slices about an inch thick. Re-
move the rind with a little cookil or
vegetable cutter. stamp into diamonds,
circles or hearts and arrange on bed
of leaves. Another popular way where
the melon is to be brought to the table
whole is to take long-bladed. sharp
knife, insert the blade near the top of
the melon, then cut diagonally down
toward the other end, leaving four or
five inches as a base. Remove the kni1e
and again insert the point three inches
inserted, and cut diagonally toward tho
far end of the first cut. thus making q
saw tooth. Continue to cut up ana
down in this way until you have gone
completely AROUND tne huoious "Aoh sAio
teeth can be readily pulled apart. This
is the best way to cut melon at a
picnic or clam bake.
The Food Value Of Melons.
In food value the cantaloupe runs
ahead Of the watermelon. though
neither Of them are valued SO much for
their protein or energy-giving quail
ties as for the refreshment they fur
nish. Unripe melons of either sort
produce collie, but the watermelon.
when ripe. is considered excellent for
liver. kidney or bladder affections.
key, fresh watermelon juice is held in
high esteem for intestinal catarrh or
dropsical affections.
To Serve Canta1oupes.
Chill thoroughly, cut in halves and
remove the seeds taking care not to
waste the delicate pulp nearest tho
seeds, as this is tho most spicy portion
of the fruit. Place the halves on a bed
Of cracked ice. II desired. though they
look prettiest when served on a bed Of
vine leaves. Tastes vary as to the best
accompaniment for cantaloupes. some
calling for a powdering of sugar,
while others think that a suspicion of
salt brings out the flavor best. Pepper
and ginger also have their adherents.
Watermelon Sherbet.
Take all the red pulp and juice Of a
ripe melon and to every two quarts. al
low a half pound of sugar. Flavor with
lemon II desired. Freeze. When half
frozen add the stihiy whipped whites OF
two eggs and continue freezing.
Watermelon Mousse.
Break tho ripe pulp into bits with q
silver fork, and pack in freeser in ios
and salt. Leave two hours until Of Q
Evening star., 1915-07-25
tally Expected to Furnish New Ideas in Clothes

Long This FALL Ouookdde Length Goats
Avoided Careful DseShong Demands Be Made Purse Purchasing
Mean atendAount
Doubled and Tpd Since Four Yard Skirts Became
Evening star., 1915-07-25
SUNDAY MENU

BREAKFAST.
Canteloupe au Naturel.
Cereal Nodded with Cream.
Broiled Ham.
Toast Coffee.
DINNER
Watermelon.
Cold Roast Veal Sliced with Currant
Jelly.
Boiled New Potatoes with Parsley Butter.
Green Peas. String Bean Salad.
Blackberry Pie. Black Conee.
SUPPER IN THE GARDEN.
Egg and Water Cress Sandwiches.
Russian Salad.
Olives. Salted Nuts.
Muskmelon Surprise.
Fresh Gingerbread. Iced Tea.
Evening star., 1915-07-25

tie allowing to every pound Of rind an
equal amount of sugar and a small
lemon. juice and yellow rind. Cover
with water and cook until the rind Is
very, very tender and the sirup rich.
Add half cup of seeded raisins, cook
for a few moments longer and then turn
into cans and seal.
Evening star., 1915-07-25
Watermelon Rind Pickle.

Pare OF the green and remove all the
red. then cut in strips two or three
inches in length. Weigh, then place in
brine. allowing a cup of salt to a gal
lon OF water and let stand twenty -four
hours. Rrain. Make a siruy. allowing
three pounds OF sugar to a quart Of
Vinegar. Add q tablespoonful OF cassia
buds, a stick of cinnamon. teaspoon
full of cloves and a little ginger root.
Cook the rid in this spiced vinegar
until transparent and tender. Take out
and pack in jars. Cook the sirup a lit
tie longer and pour over the rind and
seal.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFoRD.
For linen dresses there is nothing
Evening star., 1915-07-25

Four layers of different colored
Evening star., 1915-07-25
Watermelon Salad.

messy texture. then serve in sherbet
RlasSes.
Evening star., 1915-07-25
Watermslon Mousse.

Break the ripe pulp into bits with
silver fork, and pack in freeser in ies
and salt. Leave two hours until Of Q
Evening star., 1915-07-25

For linen dresses there Is nothing
prettier than the straight full skirt.
Evening star., 1915-07-25
THE WATERMELO ON SEASON

cellar or ice box, the best way to cool a
melon is to wrap 1t in a wet blanket
and put it for a couple of hours in a
place where the wind will blow over 1t
without allowing the sun to strike it.
Evening star., 1915-07-25

II on. is not possessed Of large. cold
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03

see any one else there. For after all,
the Valiants were gentlemen"
Mrs. Clifford shifted. Would you
have called Devil-John Valiant gen
tleman? Why, he earned the name
by the dreadful things he did. My
grandfather used to say that when his
wife lay sick-he hated her, you know
he would gallop his horse with all
his hounds full-cry after him under
her windows. Then that CHASTITY story
of the slave he pressed to death in the
hogshead of tobacco"
Il know" acquiesced Mrs. Mason.
He was cruel man and wicked, too.
Yet of course he was a gentleman. In
the South the test of gentleman has
never been what he does, but who he
is. But his grandson, Beauty Valiant,
who lived at Damory Court thirty
years ago, wasn't his type at all. He
was only twenty-five when the duel
occurred
He must have been brilliant" said
the visitor, ito have founded that
great corporation. It's pity the son
didn't take after him. Have you seen
the papers lately? 1t seems that
though he was to blame for the wreck
ing of the concern they can't do any
thing to him. Some technically in
the law, l suppose. But if man Is
only rich enough they can't convict
him of anything. Why he should sud-
denly make up his mind to come down
here / can't see. With that old af-
fair of his fathers behind him,
should think he'd prefer Patagonia"
Il take it, then, madam" Doctor
Southalrs forbidding voice rose from
the doorway, that you are familiar
with the circumstances of that old af-
fair, as you term it?"
The lady bridled. Her passages at
arms with the doctor did not invaria-
bly, tend to sweeten her disposition.
I'm sure / only know what people
say" she said.
"'People?'" snorted the doctor iras-
chilly. Just another name for COM
munity that's a perfect sink of mean
ness and malice. If one believed all
he heard here he'd quit speaking to
his own grandmother"
You will admit, / suppose" said
Mrs. Clifford with some spirit, that
the name Valiant isn't what it used
to be in this neighborhood?
81 will, madam" responded the doc
tor when Valiant left this place "a
mark of good taste, I've always consid-
cred IT'D he left it the worse, If posi-
BILE, for his departure. Your remark,
however, would seem to imply de-
merit on his part. Was he the only
man who ever happened to be at the
lucky end of battle-ground"
Then it isn't true that Valiant was
a dead shot and Sassoon intoxicated?"
"Ma5am." said the doctor. 81 have
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03

IF l were you, Br1stow,'r he SAID
scathingly, 81 reckon I'd quit galivant-
ing around to bridge-fghts with per-
fumery on my handkerchief every
evening. It's the devil of an example
to the young"
The rocking-Chairs behind the
screening vines became motionless,
and the ladies exchanged surreptitious
smiles. If the two gentlemen were
aware of each others sterling quail
ties, their mutual appreciation was IN
inverse ratio to it's expression, and,
as the Elucinian mysteries, cloaked
before the world. In public the doctor
was wont to remark that the major
talked like a Caesar, looked like a
piano-tuner and was the only man he
had ever seen who could strut sit
ting down Never were his gibes so
barbed as when launched against the
majors white-waistcoated and patri-
clan calm. and conversely, never did
the majors bland suavity so nearly
approach an undignified irritation as
when receiving the envenomed darts
of that accomplished cynic.
The mo ior settled his black tie. "A
little wholesome exercise wouldn't be
a bad thing for you, Doctor" he said
succinctly. You're looking a shade
pasty today
'Exercise!" snapped the other
viciously, as he pounded down the
steps. "Ha, ha! suppose you exer-
nj RI no
once week for julep, and the rest
of the time wearing out good cane-bot-
toms and palm-leaf fans and cussing
at the heat You'll go off with apo
plexy one of these days.
Il shall if they're scared enough to
call you," the major shot after him,
nettled. But the doctor did not pause.
He went on down the street without
turning his head.
The major lifted his hat CALAMITY
TO the ladies, whose presence he had
just observed.
do sit down, Major" said Mrs. Gif-
ford. There's a question I'm just
dying to ask you. We've had such an
interesting conversation. You've
l01'tu ZIG news, VI COuASO, Ch0I JOuA6
Mr.. Valiant is coming to Damory
Court?"
The major sat down heavily. In the
bright light his face seemed suddenly
pale and old
Nor the lady's tone was arch.
Have all the rest of us really got
ahead of you for once? Yes, it's true.
There's some one there getting it to
rights Now here's the question.
There was a woman, of course, at the
bottom of the Valiant duel I'd never
dream of asking you who she was.
But which was it she loved, Valiant
or Sassoon?"
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03
Ozo
MLANTS@VIRGIINIA
@T HALLE LIT1INI[ RIVTS 1SzzrrR))
ILLUSTRATED 81 LAUREN STOUT

OCCUPIED the big old-fash1oned cor
ner-room on the second floor, COM
panioned by a monstrous gray cat and
waited on by an ancient negro named
Jereboam, who had been a slave Of
his fathers.
The doctor was a sallow taciturn
man with a saturnine face, eyebrows
like frosted thistles, a mouth as if
made with one quick knife-slash and
a head nearly bald, set on a neck that
would not have disqualified a year
ling OK.
On this particular morning neither
the major nor the doctor was in evil
dence, the former having gone out
early, and the latter being at the mo-
ment in his Office, as the brassy buzz
of a telephone from time to time an
nounced. Two of the green wicker
rocking on the porch, however,
were in agitant commotion. Mrs. Ma
son was receiving a caller in the per-
son of Mrs. Napoleon Clifford.
After all these years." the visitor
was saying in her customary italics.
(The broad "a" which lent dulcet
softness to the speech of her hostess
was scorned by Mrs. Poly, her own
as being as narrow as the needle
through which the rich man reaches
heaven) I'VE came here from Rich
mond when / was a bride-that's
twenty-one years ago-and Damory
Court was forsaken then. And think
what condition the house must be in
now! Cared for by an agent who
comes every other season from New
York Trust man to do work like
thati'
I'm glad a Valiant is to occupy it,
remarked Mrs. Mason in her sweet
fute-like voice. cit would be sad to
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03
CHAPTER XII.
The Echo.

ne GCUO.
When the major entered his room,
Jereboam, his ancient body-servant,
was dawdling about putting things to
rights, his scanned visage under his
white wool suggesting a charred
stump beneath crisp powdering of
snow. "Jedge Chalmahs done telly-
foam ter AK yo' ovah ter Glahden Hall
ter suppah ter-2ight, subj he said.
Tell him not tonight, Jerry" said
the other YEARLY. Some other time"
The old darby ruminated as he
plodded down to the doctors tele-
phone. "Whut de mattah now? He
got dat ar y-off-yondah look ergen."
He shook his head forebodingly.
The major had, indeed, far-away
look as he sat there, a heavy lonely
figure, that bright morning. 1t had
slipped to his face with the news of
the arrival at Damory Court He told
himself that he felt queer.
Suddenly he seemed to hear elin
voices close to his ear:
Which was it she loved? Valiant
or Sassoon?"
1t was so distinct that he started,
vexed and disturbed. Really, it was
absurd. He would be seeing things
next! "SoIthall may be right about
that exercise he muttered; "Tll walk
more" He began the projected re-
form without delay, striding up and
down the room. But the little voices
presently sounded again, shouting like
gnomes inside hill:
Which was it? Valiant or Sas-
soon?"
II wish to God l knew!" said the
major roughly, standing still. 1t ST.
fenced them, but the sound of his own
voice, as though it had been a pre-
concerte& signal, drew together hun
dred inchoate images of other days.
There was the well-ordered garden Of
Damory Court-it rose up, gloomy
with night shadows, across his great
clothes-press against the wall-with
himself sitting on a rustic-bench
smoking and behind him the candle
lighted library window with Beauty
Valiant pacing up and down, waiting
for daylight There was a sun
lighted stretch between two hemlocks,
with Southall and he measuring the
ground-the grass all dewy sparkles
and an early robin lettering on a
thorn-bush. Eight - nine = ten = he
caught himself counting the PAGES.
He wiped his forehead. Between
the hemlocks now were two figures
facing each other, one twitching I'M
certainly, the other palely rigid; and
at one side, held screen-wise, raised
umbrella. In some ghostly way he
could see right through the latter
see the doctors hand gripping the
handle, his own, outstretched beyond
it's edge, holding a handkerchief ready
to flutter down. A silly subterfuge
those umbrellas, but there must be no
actual witnesses to the final act Of a
"gentlemen's meeting! A silly code
the whole of it, now happily out
grown! The scene blurred into a sin
gle figure haddling down-huddiing
Crn DE TNaNrrrNyTTIw7
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03
CTO BE CONTINUED.
Lake NICARAGUA.
down

Lake Nicaragua is not the largest
body of fresh water on earth. That
distinction belongs to Lake Superior
which, with it's $4,000 square miles OF
surface, is more than ten times tho
size Of Lake Nicaragua.
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03

Get Married s an{ but g gst you your Rsdd6g
invitations, announcements, cards, etc, at this
office. We print everything in the line of Station
cry both for society and commercial purposes
Give us a call.
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03

CHAPTER John Valiant, a rich so
ciety favorite, suddenly discovers that the
founded and which was the principal
source Of his wealth. has failed.
CHAPTER HE voluntarily turns
over his private fortune to the receiver
for the corporation.
CHAPTER Hills entire remaining
possessions consist of an old motor car,
a white bull dog and Damory court. a
neglected estate in Virginia.
CHAPTER IV-He learns that this es-
tate came into the family by royal grant
and has been In the possession or the
Valiants ever since.
CHAPTER Won the way to Damory
court he meets Shirley cambridge, an au-
burn-haired beauty, and decides that he
is going to like Virginia immensely.
CHAPTER Wan old negro tells Shir-
ley's fortune and predicts great trouble
for her on account of a man.
CHAPTER VII-Uncle Jefferson, an old
negro, takes Valiant to Damory court.
cambridge, and Major Bristow exchange
"reminiscences during which it is revealed
that the major, Valiant's father, and a
man named Sassoon. were rivals for the
hand of Mrs. cambridge In her YOUTH
Sassoon and Valiant fought a duel on her
account in which the former was killed.
CHAPTER Tx-Valiant finds Damory
court overgrown with weeds and creep
ers and the buildings in a very much
neglected condition. Uncle Jefferson and
his wife, Aunt Daphne. are engaged as
servants.
CHAPTER X-valiant explores his an
cestral home. He is surprised by fox
hunting party which invades his estate.
He recognizes Shirley at the head of the
party.
Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1915-02-03

CHAPTER X-Valiant explores his an
cestral home. He is surprised by a fox
He recognizes Shirley at the head of the
party.