The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1915-05-23
.OTIIERSOME

throat IN front. These are soft and
allowed to trape or sfali much as
they viii. though sometimes q very
slight boning preserves tho general
contour. while not giving any impress
don Of stiffenin9.
The big soft collar Standing away
from the neck in the back and on the
shoulders. It's base falling consider
ably below the base Of the throat, is
also seen. This was Paquin idea
Of last year and ID repeated by the
same house and by others. When
cleyeriy handled II has both charm
and comfort for hot weather wear.
but most women prefer 10 have the
nape OF the neck covered by coat
collar, and In combination with far
ing high frock collars this dropping
but big coat collar usually gives a
bunchy. thick look.
A very smart coat using this collar
is In black taffeta and built on what
we have been won't to call Russian
tunic lines. The full body Is shirTed
in at the normal waist line by four
rows Of corded shirring, and the tre-
mendousiy full coat tunic reaches to
the knees
A very wide collar falling away
from back and shoulders in the Pa
quin style is Of beautiful plaid taft
feta, whose dark blue ground is barred,
of by satin stripes in black,
green. dark blue and soft yellow.
There is wide band OF the plaid
around the bottom Of the coat and on
each of the wide short bell sleeves.
Instead of being shirred in all
around the waist some good models
have shirred cordings across front and
back only.
A model of this class In black taffeta !,
and satin stripe has high. close col !;
lar, surmounted by ruche of tullei
and frills Of tulle below the cuffs
The tunic falls In deep points att
each side OF the front and curves
upward In front and back. A note of
brilliant color relieves the sombre-
ness in the rather small buttons OF
vivid coral red.
silk goifine. veivety OF appearaneek
but very light In weight. makes good
looking and becoming afternoon coats,
often cut on somewhat tailored lines,
and there are numerous semi-taIlored
models In black. dark blue and all the
popular sand, castor and mode tones
OF bengaline. poplin and faille.
The heavy crinkled crepes and pom
gees are much used too for the tailored
and semi-tailored sort of silk coat, and
some OF the narrow shouldered. fiaring
skirted. loosely belted and amply
pocketed models in these silks Of
natural color are admirable for.
tailored street wear when cloths are
too heavy. They are usually lined in
soft silks. often of striped checked
dotted. futurist or sprigged design,
but some OF the smartest models have
Innings OF quaint black print linen.
Among the more dressy and pic
:uresaue silk coats. from which we've.
neen DEPRESSING. there are many white,
models--usually of taffeta, sometimes
of failie or charmeuse or heavy efepe.
They follow the general lines already
described and are often entirely un-
trimmed. save for ruches of the silk.
seIf-cordlng scalioping. pinking. SC.
over light summer frocks these full
7aring yet simple coats will be charm
ing and rather more adaptable than
me similar models in light colored
affeta, which are. however. even more
emptinE In themselves. There are
many pinks among the latter. pinks Of
all tones from flesh and palest rose
petal TO deep brilliant cerise and peach
and coral and rose, and all are lovely
watermelon pink ehangeable tat
eta is we'll liked for such models and
g. finished by fringed or sealleRed
.uches which give glimpses in their
iiil folds of the brilliant under side of
he silk.
One delightful pink tafYeta model is
Illustrated here. 1t was of an ex-
luisite light rose shade and quite un-
trimmed, unless one can call a few
silk covered buttons trimming. The
fronts fell straight the back hared
gradually. but on the hips the ma
serial was closely shirred to give ex-
,eedingly full sides to the coat skirt.
The collar was a very high, close one.
which crushed down with wearing and
was held In shape by a huttoned strap
,unning mp the collar front.
Another attractive rose fafYetA dared