The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

you into II. risks n bill Of fare be-
FORE you n stands back with ears
Inclined regard him with more at
tention than o usually bestow.
At the moment his whole being seems
IN attendance upon you. His EARS are
strained for the first rumble that be-
tokens an order about to issue from
your lips. Perhaps in his zeal he
makes "A suggestion.
"A cocktail. Monsieur" he says,
and his very soul. you would think.
hangs upon your reply.
mo-" His face falls. and YOU may
not see him smile again-unless you
call for the wine card.
As you make your laborious sug-
Gestions he painstakingly writes them
down, then hands W the slip to
the ma who is really going TO wait
upon you and passes on with some
thing like II sigh.
While he Is lowering above the next
table steal another look at him. A
tong acquaintance with walters may
have driven you TO tho conclusion that
his IL a race Of soulless creatures. Yet
he may really have a soul.
ASr' Spu 'Cpys ~ sVWi WIN uut u
single thought-how he can get more
money out Of me than l want to part
with"
Again you are wrong-or may be.
His may be n life filled to the brim
with a Under that unruffied
shirt front "a heart may pulse with
experience of adventure such as never
once thrilled o in your twice a ear
Journeying between city and country.
lie may have met face to lace the
great ones of the world; and you. IL
you nance to be "A woman. would
give your soul to have achieved some
OF the things that to him have been
only a part of the days work. 70
1t is not unlikely that he has passed
the time Of day with "A grand duke
or even an emperor. and even poured
tea-or coffee-at ar imperial elbow.
Back of hat mental mask, under
that dome Of discreet silence, may hide
Q temple Of art or science. The
trochees and heNaIneters Of a poet may
be marshalling in obedience to a muse
lurking behind those shaggy eyebrows.
Not a village hampden' ne. perhaps,
but he may be a Morgan Of the din
ner table, and you who grudgingly
hand him "A quarter for deigning to
serve you he may be able to buy or
sell ten times.
II has been the writer's fortune to
know in many parts OF the world
many waters and to nave encountered
the same waiter in many parts Of the
world. for some Of the profession are
migratory to a superlative degree. and
they flock to that particular place
which is just enjoying its season"
There was that little waiter who
years ago was an omnibus" In the
Carlton grill room. Later he vas en-
countered as head waiter in the sea-
yoing restaurant ON the America. AZ
ter d few years he was discovered in
charge OF the ltitz-Carlton restaurant
n New York. Another who worked
in the main restaurant Of the Carlton
at the same time succeeded his con-
frere on the Amerika and later was
transformed into the head waiter OF
The knickerbocker.
This story is mainly inspired by
news that has jus; come from Paris
concerning jules. 4. year and IA half
. '' "'F ~ ''"lS 'AS VI az AAiOS'
noted figures in the Tenderlo.n. As
head walter Of that gloomy gilded eat
Ing house In Broadway just below
Eorty-second street which after vari-
Gus aliases tottered with its famous
.Babylonian picture TO its end under
the name of the Cafe de Paris Jules
became widely known among those
who dine luxuriously and vim ex-
pensively. When the Castles opened
The Sans Soucl Jules became the man
aser OF that establishment, and dur
ing the season that piled up profits at
u rate which was responsible for the
change In the character OF many AN
eating house in New York Jules made
Q fortune as his share.
Some twelve years ago Jules was a
reception clerk in the Carlton Hotel.
in London. In that day he wore "a
little fringe of chin whiskers and was
called NJ. Ansaldi. One day NJ. An
saldi appealed to an American for
advice. lie had had an offer TO come to
the United States and ii chance a. a
berth in the Hotel Walton in Phila-
delphia. He was advised TO take il
up. lie did. But life in Philadelphia
did not long appeal to him. lie found
soon that in this country the big
profits in the hotel business do not
come to clerks. lie studied the sit
uation. He shaved his beard and be-
came a waiter II in time was COM
manding a restaurant.
When the war broke out Jules
vas one Of the first to take ship for
France Several times reports came
back that he was dead. The first
man from h~ereabout who has seen
Jules since the day he departed from
New York got back the other day.
lie IL an engineer who IL widely
known in the night life of New York.
He was in the Cafe de Paris for
luncheon M day recently, one of q
few men in civilian clothes in the
restaurant. Most of the other men
wore the new blue of the French
army uniform or the British khaki
His attention was attracted by one
of n party of French officers at the
next table who kept turning and
looking at him.
Finally the officer got up and came
over.
Why, don't you know me, Mr.
Blank?' no said. II am Jules. Jules
If the old Cafe de Paris in New
York"