South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1915-05-12
Wide Skirts For
SholU Says Writer
Woman Still Effectually
Hobbled-Queer Styles in
Sport Toys in New York.

There are many strange and eerie
things in the way of women's garb to
be seen on Fifth av. these days, but
they are almost exclusively in the shop
windows; occasionally a costume is
worn that betrays concession to the
extreme modishness of the moment,
but the fact seems to be that for most
women these extremes are too queer TO
be even experimental with. One of
tn sad Disappointment of the season,
By the way. is that the apparent con-
cession to comfort made in the widen
ing of the skirt is but for outward
show; the petticOat is narrower than
ever and the paradox is presented Of
wide, faring skirts all hOunces and
frills, worn by women as effectually
"hobbled" as in days when this re-
traint was openly in evidence.
In one department OF women's
clothes the impressionist designer is
allowed to dictate: this is in sports
clothes. If curiosity prompts the
fashion writer TO seek a vantage
ground for observation of strange
garments, the best opportunities are
offered at the various outing clubs
where tennis, golf and boating are in
active progress. Here are to be seen
such sweaters as the mind of man has
never dreamed Of Most of them are
made of ribbed silk and are slit up
the sides, where a trim of fur is in
troduced; pink silk with brown fur,
black and white silk with woOlly bands
Of white fur, midnight blue silk with
silver braid fasteningS and a great boa
of white fur wound round the neck,
are some of the sweater combinations
observed on the Westchester club ten
mis- courts the other day And the
skirts worn might quite as appropri-
ately belong to afternoon frOcks; they
are wide, short and much befrilled.
One of the queerest notions observed
was shown in a number of golf suits
where a perfectly plain sweater of
white silk had fastened beneath the
wide belt worn, a deep ruffie of multi
colOred blazer flannel. which was also
used as the base material of the skirt.
Whatever else may be said of sports
clothes this season, they certainly
contribute to a picturesque landscape.
Graduation Gowns.
In the department stores and spe-
cialties shops displays of summer
froCks and graduation day gowns are
to the fore and here are to be seen
some charming and sensible models
that are true to standards of youth
fitness and simplicity. White net is
a favOrite material and organizes are
shown in wide variety. One feature
that is something of a novelty is the
use of wide scarfs of cOlOred net over
white Organdie, and even in the grad
uation gown a note Of color is intro
duced. Skirts have two to three
f1ounces which are given substance by
row after row of tiny tucks. There
are afternoon frocks Of colored linen
combined with organdie and net which
are particularly attractive as worn by
the store models.
One department store manager said
the other day that the demand for
ready made costumes was this year
the greatest in the stores history;
many customers who have previously
patronized the custom making depart
ment exclusively are this season Sc
lecting most of their wardrobe from
ready made models. Many times
these ready made gowns when pur-
chased are taken to the custom de-
partment for certain alterations which
serve to give them an exclusive style
of their own, and the manager be-
lieves this practice is destined to be-
come popular.
Another fact to be noted is the de-
mand for strictly tailored suits. This
costume. so becoming to many wom-
en-. is reasserting its claim to pOpu-
larity in defiance of mode makers and
fashion writer's and tailored suits are
more to be seen on the streets than
in several seasons past. In the depart
ment store above mentioned the tail
oring force has been doubled in the
last month and IS working overtime
to supply the demand. The materials
used are gabardines. silk and cotton
mixtures and light weaves in which
silk finish is initiated; the colOrs are
blue, gray and brown. with black
satin as the favorite trim for collar
and cuffs: frogs replace buttons as a
concession to the military note.