New Britain herald., 1915-03-26

e6r tailored suits. No one seek;
 its supremacy, whether q cos
 of it is enlivened with gold o1
 LII braid touched here and there
 lkh dull red, or carries black braie
 mbroideries. Its strong position Fan1one the fashions of the momen, proves conclusively that tan gebardint f taflor-mades have enjoyed their brie1 popularity.
 Skirts of tailored suits are faring ! Even when pleated they look full, and with a single exceptional of the great couturiers are making very short jupons. Six inches fro,r the ground is the general average. Ii i~a- girl has a perfect pair of ankles she i gets along with an inch less. The ankles would show rather clearly even if the skirt were longer. for many a broad hem is in self-colored chiffon as in 8 blue serge one piece dress by Lucille Here cluster of pleats is Inserted into the sides of the skirt, whose deep hem is headed with black soutache which elsewhere garnishes the costume. The idea of the trans parent hem is repeated in golden
 
 eral times encirc1ed with narrow bands of side-pleated silk
 These transparent bands, which serve as trimming on this seasons models, are decidedly new, as are also milliner's folds and self pipings. These have superseded hemstitching and picot edges which have served as finish to gowns for so many sea- sons x ..H Jackets Hip Length and Military in
 s Style.
 5. Jackets are hip length, show an in- clination to indicate the waist line and are. decidedly military. in style, espe- scially in the application, of trimmings and in the shape of their collars. Bol- eros and cOatees are innumerable. High-belted coats have utterly gone out. Sleeves are set in without gath CTS and all of them reach the wrists.
 Afternoon frocks were never more alluring. In blue chiffon are many pretty models having skirts consisting of layer upon layer of gauge mounted upon a silk under dress, below which the transparency invariably drops. A great many of the bodices- always a maze of chiffon layers-are cut straight across the chest andsa few are deeply rounded at front, for only occasionally is one decollete at back. Unless Callot, who always keeps to elbow sleeves for afternoon costumes, Is the author of model, it's arm -cov- erings extend we'll over the hands. Particularly good is the transparent sleeve of taffeta and chiffon efrock in dark blue. Set without fitness into their arm-eyes, these sleeves gradually attain. below the elbows. a{ little additional, width, which at the wrists is gathered into frill coming below a narrow band in taf- feta duplicating another placed high l CT up.a M~ x Collars are high and have buttons which fasten, or may be fastened, l closely about the throat, although 1 many of them are worn loosely if they happen to be more becoming 1 that way. Collars and cuffs in col ored Handkerchief linen lend a fetch 1 ing air to many silk frocks. They l are also found on chiffon, a notable case beng white blouse by Jenny. 1 This carries a high-rolling, blue linen collar, flaring above a flat one in white chiffon, buttoning under the chin and running below it down a side of either front to ultimately but ton tab fashion, an inch or so above ] the waist line. Flat cuffs, partly 1 banded with chiffon, are in blue linen. Linen as a, trimming for mar i quisette is decidedly new feature among late models. A striking ex- ample of this use of the sheer, dainty ] fabric, is seen in a lemon mar quisette frock whose skirt and blouse 1 are trimmed lightly but effectively l with narrow rufflcs in white linen l piped with lemon.
 Buttons are more than ever pop ular. Many sizes in unusual shapes l are seen, but ball types lead. and in 1 single or double rows they trim in- ] numerable models from representa- l tive houses. especially the creations l of Doucet, Worth and Lucille.
 Travelling wraps of serge are of 1 length. Notably smart 1 models are in black and white check 1 and show a third tone, poppy red or ] emerald green, in collar and cuffs 1 and pocket flaps. Separate wraps 1 for afternoons, usually in satin or 1 taffeta preferably black, are circular 1 cut and suspend from yoke. of 1 greater or less depth. The yoke may l cross the figure at the shoulders or l below the bust. Tn few cases the l upper half of the garment fits the l shoulders smoothly and gradually ac- quires flare on it's way to the hips, where the lower portion of the wrap is attached as a cord-headed circular f1ounce, much deeper at sides and 1 back than at front
 Evening Wraps of Severe Simplicity. l
 Severe simplicity distinguishes evening wraps They are exceeding ly full and owe much of their beauty to their materials An exquisite .