The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-10-03
~ ELEANOR pOYT nj AINERD.

WE. , " sss" . s"%s "srn'' sss,
autumn clothes was Begin
ming to boil, but in spite Of this dross-
making n shopping lead ;,.r -
sports.
Now that We know in a g,n ,
what Paris and our own best d, 81 -
ave indcrsed one may choose a ward
robe for the new season without fear
that the mysterious and autocratic
"thcy' may not be wearing the sort of
thing one chooses. and the ideas m
bodied In the models shown at the
openings are being modified and
adapted to individual tastes.
Very few women with regulations
Tor being well dressed buy imported
models just as they come to this coun-
try and are shown at the early OPEN
ings. Later importat ons are different,
are brought over by fewer buyers. seen
and copied by fewer dressmakers, but
where n mode. shown at the early
openings pleases 1t is more likely to lie
ordered In other coloring han bought
outright n still more likely to be
copied In part rather than as a whole.
There are many wearable frocks
among this years models, but most
OF them need adaptation to individual
needs n l!mitatp n and their chief
value is inspirational. suggestive. Re-
Sarded In this light even the most ex-
IRENE or freakish OF the new mode $
can be approved by the censor. for
there Is hardly one that hasn't it's
clever feature. its note of originality
and charm, Its detail worth remember
ing and reproducing.
In the same way sketches of extreme
models are valuable. though the
average woman glancilg at them may
sigh over their eccentricities. The
group Of frock backs. for example, re-
produced in our large cut. represents
ideas rather radical. but all these ideas
are sponsored by houses such as
Premet, Martial Armand and Worth,
and they all have their c.everness.
The %silhouettes all place accent on
the most generally accepted of the new
featu.es-the wide skirt, the rather
snug bodice-but with a difference.
Martial Armand has designed "A black
taffeta whose loosely fitted bodice ms
widely fiaring skirt back are made in
one, like a redingote, while the side
and front tunic overskirt arrange
ments are separate n shorter.
1t is the back Of this frock that is
most interesting. The prodigious Hare
Of the skirt below the simple bodice,
the straight yoke line from shoulder to
shoulder. the oddly cut collar with
fits wide velvet ribbon hanging from
the collar top. the low shoulder. join
Ing the full sleeve under an enormous
cable cord Of the SHRED silk-all OF
these things are interesting, whether
or no one finds the mode beautiful.
Both Of the other backs illustrated
show skirt lines unlike those Of the
Martial Armand frock, newer lines
though they are old enough his
torically-and. it would seem. ines less
likely to appeal TO the woman of ordi-
nary figure.
Here the point OF greatest width has
crept up from skirt or tunic bottom to
short or long hip line.
This skirt arrangement, reminiscent
OF pannier and hustle. came as a sur
prise to many. though the spring
modes led up to it. and a large pro-
portion OF the imported models exploit
these lines, in more or less radical
fashion. The skirts are IS wide AMI
full as ever, but they fare less at
bottom, are draped more about the
hips. On certain figures they are
quantity delightful. On other figures
they are monstrous n women will
doubtless steer a middle course twixt
exaggerated bell flare and exaggerated
hip width. achieving lines modish
enough but in no way freakish. The
thing can be done. Even in some OF
the imported mode Is 1t has been done;
but meanwhile the extremes blaze the
way.
Premet. whose name has not been
quite so conspicuous as usual in the
New York collections of imported
frocks. has one model in red and green
paid silk and red chiffon that !s less
fiamboyant and more wearable than
that description would indicate.
The red is ore of the dull. soft
wine shades, the green as soft and
eubdued as the red, and the two beau
tifully blended. The front of the frock
has a surplice everybody CT the plaid
over an underbody of red chiffon en-
bgoidered in self co.or. The lower