Omaha daily bee., 1915-06-20

reasonable expenditure in following fash
ions is most harmful.
These abuses. this tyranny OF uniform
fly in nearly all outer manifestations OF
llfe lead notably TO the Punishment OF
provincial costumes, the representatives
Of climate, products OF local art, SO full
OF interest from an historical standpoint,
picturesque, stable, durable, which are
handed down from generation to genera
ton. Among these costumes OF historic
interest are the Caux cap recalling the
steeple headdress Of ladies Of the four
teenth century; the little Nicaesn hat
reproducing the couture called "Thessa-
lonian" by the Greeks, and the antique
Phrygian hat, still worn by the Arle-
SLAMS. Although formerly there was va
Ration according TO place and uniform
ity as to the season, we now tend more
and more toward a uniformity ss TO
place and variation as to season.
Human fancy thus asserts its suprem-
acy over animals, obliged always TO wear
the same livery Austere philosophers
have understood perfectly the aesthetic
and social significance OF fashion. Re-
nan, writing on Marcus Aurelius, admits
fills a duty; she practises an art, an ex-
quisite art. in a sense the most charm
ing of arts A woman's toilet,
with It's rehnements, Is a great art In its
way. Ages and countries which know
how to carry 1t out we'll are great ages,
great countries"
The appearance OF a new style OF gar.
ment is the visible sign that q transfer
nation Is taking place in the intellect,
- IL THm
rise Of the Chinese Republic, for In
stance, led to doing away with plated
hair and to the adoption OF the European
costume.
Tame wrote this profound sally: MY
decided opinion is that the greatest
change in history was the advent OF
trousers. II marked the pas
sage of Greek and Roman civilization to
the modern Nothing is more
difficult to alter than a universal and
daily custom. In order to take away
mans clothes and dress him up again
you must demolish and remodel him."
II Is also an equally philosophical con
clusion which NJ. Louis Bourdeau gives
IN his interesting "Histoire de l'habille-
ment ct de la parure": There where the
same style Of clothing is used for CEN
turtles, as among barbsrous peoples, one
has the right TO say that civilization re-
hand, where as in Europe, garments are
subject TO continual notifications one
may see evidence OF great comfort and
rapid progress Far from be-
ing a custom OF incurable frivolity, the
changes OF fashions mark a high civiliza-
ton, subject to change because Il is
growing and because it has wide lati.
tude to refine its ideal in proportion as
It's productions are varied" Again Il is
hot hat
hnement be not turned 10 extravaganza
or TO improperly, compromising the
reputation for good taste, elegance and
distinction.
What can we do for or against lash.
ion? Can we direct II or can we prevent
It's abuse? Let us find out first the
power OF the law, religious or civil. Very
early Popes and councils strove in vain
against the low-neck gown and the
dresses terminating in the serpents
tail" Kings initiated them, Charlemagne
setting the example, but sumptuary de
crees have had no more effect than ordi.
nances against duelling,
NJ. Victor du Bled reports that Philippe
lie Bel was urged TO promulgate some
sumptuary laws by his wife, who, max
ing her formal entrance at Bruges in
1901, saw crowd Of common people SO
richly clothed that she cried out with
yexaton, 81 thought myself the queen
and ] sec hundreds OF them" Charles
IN. prescribed hip pads Of more than 1--WE
feet gold chains, pieces Of jewelry with
or without enamel In 1867 he regulated
the garments Of each class, permitting
silk only to princesses and duchesseS
forDiddiHg yelyet-Without any lasting
success.
Fashion is, apparently. beyond regu
lation by war.