The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-03-21
., ELEANOR HoYT BRA1NERD.

- LEBvEs have been debatable
ground since midwinter.
y Everything seemed TO be long
and close or tubular: and yet
,eason indicated hat the warm sea-
son would bring shorter sleeves and
s,udents ~ fashion waited with con-
siderable interest to see what Paris
would have to say upon the subject.
We'll, Paris has had many things to
cav. so many that We are almost where
"a we're before. ave that we n be
eclectic with a clear conscience and
,ha, We have had helpful suggestions
for almost any and every typo of
sleeve.
To take the newer lines frrt. many
NJ the French designers have shown a
king for bell sleeve Inca Elbow
sleeves. three quarter sleeves. very
short sleeves. overssleevess all are
.hovn with more or lees pronounced
neil fare toward the bottom. below q
comfortably loose but smooth sleeve
,op. usually set into an armhole seam.
In It's simplest form this sleeve Is
attacti,c only II IN sheer material.
but some Of the hest houses have
given US on woollen suits plain un-
trimmed coat sleeves OF three-quarter
length. widening just a little toward
the Internationally not In itself a
pretty coat sleeve. In chiffon or crepe
/; is better, and when beneath the
bel flare a soft little pun or frtll or
nndersleeve of net or lace or chiffon
sppcars the oversleeve loses its ugi.-
mss.
There are many OF the over and
under sleeve arrangements IN both long
and short sleeves. but they call for
skilful handling II they are to he be-
coming. The full long pun on the
lower arm below a rather snug upper
sleeve Of heavier material IL quaint
and in the Victorian picture. but not
nearly 50 becoming 10 the arm or the
general figure a. IL the sleeve that
defines The wrist and lower arm.
The other extreme in sleeve lines.
the leg O. mutton. with which we were
threatened, o e not figure among the
srring modes; but certain French
sleeves coquette with the idea. intro
ducinr into q long close fitting sleeve
large soft pun of chiffon or tulle or
lace on the outside of the arm from
elbow 20 shoulder. The s~oftneas OF the
pun material avoids mutton leg width
on the upper arm and the droop OF
this material gives the greatest width
near the elbow rather than at the
dseve top. but these sleeves suffice 10
remind us OF tho evil that might have
befallen uA.
SOM Of the best models In which
very fun skirts OF lace or tulle are
associated with sleeveless bodices of
rlk have long very fun sleeves of
the Lac Or tulle, morn extreme than
anything we have had In the line Of
arge sleeves. yet not aggressive be-
ause Of the very great s~heerness Of
the sleeve material.
For example. one Of Dreoolls most
suocessful models was a founced.
faring skirt OF black tulle and black
six lano below q little ntted bodice
N black satin, and its sleeves are Of
the black tulle very. very full, be-
ow q sort OF cop line Of black silk
ace, but held in as the waist line is
neared by two narrow folds Of black
satin, with a soft, fun pun Of the
tulle between and a nartng cuff OF
ZIG NIL 1aiilIlB ONci tlc HbIlu DdluW
the lower fold.
Another very large sleeve has a
,Nree-quarter inner arm section OF
silk. while on the outer arm full
sheer lace Jabots down almost TO the
wrist, where It joins . close cun of
the lace.
There are stin plenty Of lR9 close
Httng sleeves, With PERHAPS some
little novel detail Of cum or wrist
finish; and there are q good many
long sleeves not close fitting below the
rlbow-straight rather on both outer
and innar arm and with tho slight
fitness held at tho wrist by some
knowing little device OF loops or ties
or straps or buttons. One French
maker uees this long sleeve on several
~ his taffeta frocks and holds II at
the wrist by an inch and a half band
Of the taneta- drawn closely round the