The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-03-14

Effects of War on Fashions Seen at
Dressmakers' Openings--Spring
Gowns Will Be Charming
q, ELEANOR HoYT BR AuNERD.


~HE buyers have come back
from Paris bringing their
sheaves with them. To bc
more accurate. they sent some
sheaves. brought others and left still
others TO he sent after them.
Cabot models belonged to the last
group. the house sdhering to its policy
a. late delivery. and al this moment
he Callots have not yet been shown,
though the d~ressmakers at their OPEN
inss have displayed a majority Of the
frsks exhibited Ivy the great Paris
isslion houses. and all Of the shops
dealing in imported models have re-
ceived their first consignments and are
getting more models by every in.
coming steamer.
SO the cat IL actually out OF the bag
Al last so far as French modes are
conceived, and on the whole It's q
very presentablc cat. Before some
81 tho collections brought over nv the
Importers one feels inclined 10 wax
enthusiastic even though n remains
pncxcited. Exciting revelations were
not 70 bN expected this season and
'hoy q not occurred. hut there is
much to admire and applaud.
incidentally II may be noted that the
exhibits by the various houses here
are surprisingly uneven One buyer,
upon whom one can usually count for
an interesting group OF models. will
display a collection that prompts
'amentation over Partisan conditions
and disCouragefnent in regard TO
fashion possibilities for the At
the next house there will he on view
8 collection really delecfable. 40 de-
lcctstle that the ONE who throns
70 look at IL Sigh in relief and say,
"woll. after all. Faris-you know"
The fact Is that buyers who sought
the spectacular and startlingly novel
and could not wrench their minds
away from that viewpoint mot with
disappointment and picked up a very
dlscoursging line Of frocks. while the
buyer who accepted conditions as they
are and devoted himself TO picking I'D
the very best and most wearable OF
he many conservative and likable
models offered got together a collec-
Ion bound to appeal to any woman
OF good taste. II MOI to the advertising
man.
ITS this way" summed UP a West
e.p dressmaker who has a successful
business in a town OF medium size.
II usually come on hero for my mate
rails and I look over the imported
models to pick up an idea here and
there; but As FOR actually copying
those models for my trade, I couldn't
d. II. They are too complicated or too
expensive and too conspicuous.
'My customers have money. but
they are conservative. Now. this sea-
son I've seen al least thirty OF forty
frocks that. ! intend to duplicate ex-
actly, and I'll have nc trouble in SELL
!ng them. They are smart looking
and now. but. they are ladies' frocks-
wearable things, you know-and they
can be produced at prices compare
lively reasonable"
There Is the situation In q nutshell.
''' ~ u spiitt Va NiIN
French output. the quiet color
schemes. the lack OF extraordinary
materials and amazing trimmings,
above all tho condition OF mind pre-
va.l:rr IN France. have worked to-
rcther to tone down the majority of
the spring offerings. Novelty there Is.
and charm and individuality. but of
ine eccentric, the bizarre. the startling,
one finds. little in the best models. A
certain. type Of woman will bemoan
this state Of things. but women at
.arGN Will he treasured and pleased.
Tho overpicturesque IS shown.
though chiefly in evening frocks, and
many skirts are too full and too short
q suit the average woman but there
are plenty OF models against which
these things cannot be urged-full Of
skirt. hut dIscreetly full and with the
fnlnfs' So adjusted that ever the stout
woman need not fear it.
Tho normal waist line-whlch does
not mean the waist line drawn down