davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1915-02-07

serviceable spring gown, suitable for
many occasions and differing climates.
In dark blu> It is trimmed with a soft
colored border that may be used as a
finish to the long tunic, for cuffs or for
the collar.
There is a new silk out, by the way
in deep dark blue. on which is print
ed border in deep red and bright tone
of blue. This aids the dressmaker In a
most gratifying way to solve the PROB
lem of trimming. II we are to wear
simple lines, and to depend on our orig
inal material for our effects, then we
may often be in despair as to how to
get in our color
Worth's Rufaed Skirts.
Not only long tunics with borders,
but rufles are to be worn. Worth is
making both. The world has looked
to the house of Worth for stately lines,
not frivolities; it has been the apostle
of the dignihed woman, rather than the
jaunty one. During these gay years
women have accused the Worths OF
making them look old. a crime that
few dressmakers can survive, and there
have been times when this house has
not enjoyed popularity.
Even the American buyers have not
paid much attention to it's models dur
ing the last three seasons: the reason
always was that women wanted more
frivolous. more conspicuous clothes
than Worth gave them.
But the house had q decided success
last season. One or two of his models
were more widely copied, perhaps. than
Evening star., 1915-02-07
z WHAT We'll. DRESSED Xol!EN Wl[LWEAR :
8~&@ @Z
RS USRS I'm NEW ERA TE SQBRlETY I'M DRESS FOR Spring

into the body in a very fetching way
and commends itself to the woman who
does not. or cannot accept the ultra
ordinations of color or startling lines
that have been prevailing.
All that ! hear from Paris is condu
Give to the belief that we have entered
upon new epoch in dress. 1t is time
for the historian to begin the tale of
what has been, proba bly,, one of the
most expensive. eXtraVagant, artistic
and at the same time ugly era in
womans apparel since the female of
the species put on clothes to protect
herself from the glanceS of the male
for clothes. you proba bly, know, were
first used as protection, then as a
lure.
Entering a New Era.
The history of dress is fascina ting
because it has allied itself with the
most important phases of action and
morals in the worlds history. And
there is none to doubt that the last
ten years have reflected a moral and
mental attitude of the world toward
life that needs a good pen to do it JUS
tice.
That era is swept away. We have
entered upon a new one. All things
have been challenged, most things have
Evening star., 1915-02-07
S THE FlCHU GIRL
COMING BACK AGAIN?

G ONE of the pretty new frocks. espe-
~ cially those for young girls. have
fichus as part of their construction.
And those fichus, reminiscent of Marie
Antonette. Quaker maidens, Martha
Washington and old-fashioned and
quaint women in many ages. are decid-
edly charming. With the high. puffed
sleeves, the short-waistsd, narrow bod
ices. the short, full skirts of the day,
fichus are particularly in harmony. and
1t is to be hoped that these early indi-
cations really do foretell general use
of this charming accessory to woman's S
dress.
The season of their coming is propi-
tious. Season really plays an impor-
tant part in the success or failure of
styles. II high necks are introduced
in the spring there is far less likelihood
Of their lasting than If they come in
the autumn. when they are naturally
welcome. So, with fichus making their
appearance just when every one is be-
ginning to think of next summers
muslins. there Is strong likelihood that
they will become fashionable and even
popular.
The last time that fichus were worn.
some ten or eleven years ago, they
were usually worn with high-necked
Evening star., 1915-02-07

we shall have gowns and blouses of it.
The blouses are especially in demand
when they are in sand color and sim
ply made; they are supposed to suit the
dark cloth coats and skirts better than
any others, and already the shops are
having large demands for them.
They fasten down the front are
sometimes tucked singly or in groups,
usually have high collars. unstiffened.
boned al the sides and loosely fastened
down the front. None of these has the
effect of hugging the neck; they are
questionable unless they give the ap-
pearance of being loosely adjusted,
wrinkled, as it were, over the two side
bones.
They do not fasten entirely to the
top. for they must give the chin room
and not produce the thick line of fat at
the top of the neck which the tight line
will do. The newer collars are entirely
cut away in front. standing high at the
sides and back, but showing the neck
Evening star., 1915-02-07

NIHE eyes of the dressmakin
world are turned toward Paris
III this week because of the open
& iugs which began there two
days ago.
In fact, Worth, wishing to be fore
handed. as Poiret was last February
had his opening earlier that the clothes
might reach America in good season,
after taking into account the show
shipments TO this country and the tedi-
Gus delays occasioned by all sorts of
rigid inspection and exercise of red
ape.
1t is fine example of that courage
for which France has been peculiarly
noted throughout the centuries-this
opening of all the doors of the houses
where trade is conducted in women's
apparel at the regulation time when
all of these people involved are suffer
ing mental agony and most of them en-
during great personal grief
Many motives are behind this move
mont some of which are undoubtedly
the desire for the continued power of
designing in the world by nation
that has never had serious rival in
that line and will never brook real in
reference. She has never had cause
TO fear, for it is the belief that If she
had been eclipscd for two or three
years in her designing the world would
only have turned toward her with more
ardor and zeal than before.
Her place in the world is to give in
spiration- That she does. The prac-
teal workers can have all of it. heaped
up and running over. using it to their
own advantage, and they should be
content to let il go at that. Another
motive behind the movement is un-
doubtedly the dire need of money to
keep the women and children near
I'aris at work. This is true charity
and ii Is time we. as Americans, gave
ear to the same demand
Evening star., 1915-02-07

under the chin to the top button of the
blouse.
Chiffon blouses have also come back
Into fashion. They are usually just a
shade off white into flesh pink, and are
worn over a half fitting, low corset
cover of palest pink taffeta buttoned
down the front, and scalloped at the
upper edge.
feta to be worn with thin white blouses,
or the beige and putty-colored vole
one. Every woman is not familiar with
this attractive way of lining a trans
parent waist, and it is worthy of wide
acceptance. One has often puzzled over
the problem of what to wear beneath
an unlined blouse
There is no doubt that voile is to be
popular everywhere. There is an
American weave that is supposed to be
indestructible, and which has been
readily accepted for evening frocks, for
tea coats, for one-piece gowns for the
Evening star., 1915-02-07

II T is not necessary for the house,
II keeper to buy the most expensive
cuts of beef or other meat in order
to obtain the most nutritious or ap-
petizing results. Tenderloin of beef,
for instance, sounds well and is most
expensive and the tenderes. cut in the
animal. to be sure. but it Is also the
most tastelcss unless treated with high
seasonings and the juice squeezed
from the more plebeian sounding round,
to give it good flavor Neither the
tenderloin nor the sirloin is as juicy
and nutritious as Il round steai., Il
chuck or the tender little skirt steaks
which the knight of the cleaver usual :
ly takes home for his own family's de-
lectation. 1t is the intelligence that
is demonstrated in it's cooking and
seasoning that really turns cheap cut
into very appetiZing one.
Economical Cuts of Meat and Their
Cooking.
For the woman who has never learned
how to use the cheaper cuts of meat.
the following suggestions may afford
food for thought as we'll as food for
the family:
Stews may be cooked on top of the
stove or in the oven, the general essen
tials being slow. moist. gentle heat.
that softens the fibers and develops
the juices of the meat. whether the
process be known as fricasseelhg,
stewing or braising. and the finished
result a stew. Il braise, ragout. a
haricot. or sami. Braising is a par
ticularly good way to treat dry meats
part of the round or the face of the
rump. the shoulder of mutton. heart.
liver, tough fowls. pigeons and other
dry game.
The method of braising is similar to
the old time pot roast. only the brais-
ing is far easier, in that the water in
which II is cooked does not need re-
plenishing and there is much less dan.
Evening star., 1915-02-07

frocks. and therefore much of their
charm was lost. They are rightfully a
neck finish, not merely an additional
their soft, white folds should be out
lined against the neck rather thar
against the, frock to be at their best.
But the last time f1chuS were in fash
ION most of them had no soft. white
folds, for they were often made of col.
ored fabric of various Sorts-fowered
and colored voile and chiffon. This
year, so far at least, the f1chuS are
made of sheer white-organdy. tulle OF
chiffon. Net, of course. has come in
for attention, for in its various grades
and sorts it is suitab BILE to use with al
most all of the fashionable materials.
And so far this year, too, most of the
nchus have been used on the charm
ing short-waisted. fulI-skirted evening
frocks of soft, heavy silk. So, natural
ly, these flchus have been of rather
diminutive sort, not quite like their
prototype of Starched muslin.
Some of the muslin frocks for south
ern wear, however. have shown larger
fichus of organdy, tulle and chiffon.
Sometimes they are edged with little
and sometimes they are bound with a
tiny, narrow strip Of color. Some
times, too. these f1chus are bertha-like
in their folds and are made of lace.
If the 1ichu really does come def
nitely to the fore, it will be welcome
addition to the economical woman's s
summer wardrobe. for it affords a neat
and becoming neck finish and, If it is
fashionable to boot. it possesses a win
some trilogy of attractions.
Although the soft white ueckerchief
of our foremothers has evolved into an
elaborate fichu. it is still quite as pic
turesque, but there are difficulties in
the way of wearing it. These can be
overcome, however, if the accessory is
made properly. Even the most primi-
tive form. which was a square, will be
apt to ride up in a mass of folds at
the back of the neck. If the fichu is
loosened to allow the folds to smooth
out. the two sides of the fichu will not
meet properly in front without giving
drawn effect
To obviate this, one girl experiment.
ed on breadth of thin. cheap muslin
and overcame the diff hculty. She folded
perfect square of muslin diagonally.
as if she We're going to place it about
her neck. Instead, she cut the piece
in two. One piece was folded again.
but this time it was a lengthwise fold.
which was cut out about four inches.
and curved to fit the neck. The point
of one fichu was left in this effect, the
other was curved. This solved the
fichu problem, for when it was draped
over her shoulders and the ends knot
ted at her breast. her "kerchief did
not ride" up in the back, but laid In
circumspect lines which accentuated
the sloping shoulders.
Another secret which is worth re-
membering is given upon the author-
ity of a fichu expert. She says that
for a yard square fichu the ruffiing
should be at least six yards long be-
fore gathering. In other words, a yard
and half of ungathered rufning
should be allowed for every yard Of
material.
Evening star., 1915-02-07

south and for those artistic. vague
shoulder draperies that are employed
to give color to white Or gray gowns.
Waist Without Gathers.
There is fashion now for wearing a
medieval evening waist that drops
loosely from the neck to the hips with
out gathers, is opened in a slit at the
neck showing the shoulders. but not
the neck. and hanging free over the
body until ii is confined at the hips by
a girdle of flowers. or jet. or pearls.
An orchid chiffon top. like this.
dropped over an orchid satin slip Is
charming: also a blue one over
plain white satin gown, or a gray
one held in by silver band over
gown of mauve silk. and sometimes one
may catch a glimpse of a faint yellow
one over a faint pink taffeta frock-
Any weave of good wolfe will make
Evening star., 1915-02-07

molas cut in small pieces, a spoonful
of butter. and salt and pepper to sea
son. Instead of olives, a few pieces of
mustard pickle with bit of the mus
tard sauce can be used. Heat all to the
boiling point and pour over slices of
hot buttered toast, the edges of which
have been dipped in boiling water
Serve very hot.
Meat Popovers.
A favorite dish with men for cold
days luncheon or supper is the regu-
lar popovers, enriched with finely chop
ped cold meat of any sort, though
corned beef is perhaps the best. AL
low to one well-beaten egg one cup of
flour, one cup of milk. one cup of meat
finely chopped, and pinch of salt. Beat
five minutes, pour into hot gem tins
well creased, and bake half an hour in
hot oven.
A Good Meat Loaf.
Have a half pound of bacon run
through a meat grinder with two
pounds of lean beef Add two beaten
eggs, half the amount of cracker
crumbs, measured by the cup. as you
have meat, and salt and pepper to sea-
son. Mix well. shape in a loaf. and bake
one hour in a steady oven. A little
chopped onion or onion juice may be
added to the Loaf if desired.
When baked and chilled, slice thin,
arrange on a platter and garn1sh with
parsley.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star., 1915-02-07
MEAT DISHES FOR COLD DAYS

ger of the kettle burning dry. In each
| case the meat is rolled in flour, sea-
soned with salt, pepper and just sus-
plcion OF sugar to assist in the quick
browning. Then it is Drowned in the bot
tom of a kettle or frying pan, using
some of its own fat, suet. butter or drip
pings. and then put into a stewpan or
braising kettle and cover with well
hot water. herbs and simple season
ing and then left tightly covered to
| stew slowly for several hours.
French Pot Roast.
! Take for this the flank of beef or
round steak cut quite thick. Roll the
| meat round and round and tie in place
with piece of cotton cloth in order
to keep it in shape for slicing. Fry
three or four onions in little bacon
| fat in the bottom of the iron pot in
which you are going to cook the roast
When they are tender. but not at all
brown we'll, turning so that it is
Drowned all over. Have ready more
onions sliced fine, bunch of carrots
scraped and sliced. a turnip sliced and
pee peeled; a little little chopped parsley and a
| meat has Drowned on both sides, put
! in the vegetables and cover with hot
water not allowing it to come above
the level of the meat. When it begins
to simmer, season with salt and pepper
and cook slowly for two hours turn
Ing the meat once in the interim.
rake up the meat on the platter and
set in the oven to keep warm, then
with skinner remove the vegetables,
meat. Thicken the gravy remaining,
adding the cup of tomato sauce and
| pour over the meat or serve in a gravy
boat as preferred
Kuetair.
| This is a Turkish and Armenian dish
appetizing and economical Take one
| pound of hamburg steak, add minced
parsley, onion, salt and pepper to sea
! son. Add also n small cupful of we'll
washed rice and a hard-beaten egg
Roll in small meat balls. Have a plat
ter lined with fine minced parsley. lay
! in the balls and shake lightly until they
are covered all over with the green
Have ready a kettle of boiling water
| lightly salted: drop in the balls ano
| cook until the rice is done and putting
| out. Then beat another egg with lit
| tie flour, and. having taken up the balls
| in large spoon, laying carefully or
platter, thicken the gravy and sea
| son with salt, pepper and lemon Juice
Just before serving, add little more
Meal Ragout.
Cut cold stewed veal into small cubes
following ingredients: Allow to each
cup of the veal one-quarter cup OF
| stewed tomatoes. one-quarter cup OF
gravy made from the stock in which
| the veal was cooked. four olives or pL
Evening star., 1915-02-07
Oyster Cocktail.

TAKE three teaspoonfuls of horse
radish, three teaspoonfuls of vine
gar. five teaspoonfuls of lemon juice.
ne-half a teaspoonful of tabasco sauce,
salt to taste and one pint of oysters
Mix and serve in tall, thin glasses. This
recipe Will serve six people.
Evening star., 1915-02-07
LATE WINTER FASHIONS

n PAIR of house slippers is made
NN with patent leather vamps and
g y heeIs-high French heels-and
lonr. pointed toes, and with the rest of
heavy, corded black silk There is a
wide, slashed strap over the instep. and
each little strap formed by the slash
ior is marked with a small rhinestone
button on the crest of the instep- The
strap buttons on the outside of each
slipper with a simple black button.
Russian Boots.
Russian influence has been marked in
.IoThes for several months, and some
women have actually worn Russian
boots. Now they can be had in some
bf the shops. One pair shown recent
~ In the window of a smart shocshop
IS made of soft green suede and patent
leather. The heels are high and of
French shape, and they and the vamp
Of the shoe are made of patent leather.
The leg part is made of the suede, and
tho vamp reaches up on the leg section
in interesting. irregular lines.
White Leather Belts.
One of the new white serge suits
made for southern wear shows an un-
usual belt 1t Is of dull white leather,
about two inches wide. perhaps mar
-ower 1t is fastened in front by means
Of a leather covered buckle, and on the
eft side, a few inches from the buckle.
5 d little pocket. just about the width
IF the belt. II clasps shut with snap
fastener.
New Handkerchiefs.
a new handkerchief shows a ruffie
about an inch wide, of violet tulle, as
an edging. The center is of very sheer
linen and the ruffe is very soft and
rIil, and the little handkerchief is de-
.idedly fluffy and dainty.
Odd Hat Trimming.
An odd sort of trimming is used on
Jne of the new spring hats. The hat is
made of straw and satin-the crown
Jf satin. IL is banded about with a
1oubIe strand of tiny iridescent shells
of the sort that every one who makes
tesrist's visit TO California takes
So. They are finished with two ends
'srgiaS loosely on the brim, and real
y form u very effective decoration,
somewhat suggestive of the big paste
beads that have been used heretofore.
White Satin Hat.
one of tho very effective hats of the
season is made of white satin banded
with narrow black soutache braid ar
ranged to check the white in inch-and-
a-haIf squares. II is trimmed with
nothinS but a stiff little ribbon oyna-
Evening star., 1915-02-07
Rice WaMes.

Three-quarters cup of flour. two table,
spoonfuls of sugar. two-and half teo-
spoonfuls of baking powder and one-quar-
ter teaspoonful salt. Sift thoroughly to-
gether. Into this work two-thirds cup of
cold cooked rice. Add one-and-one-quar-
ter cups of milk. one egg and one
tablespoonful of butter.
Evening star., 1915-02-07
Cream WaMes.

One cup of flour. three heapins table
spoonfulS of cornsta rch. two cups of
sour cream. one teaspoonful of soda, one
teaspoonful of salt and one egg. Beat
the egg, add the cream. into which soda
has been previously beaten. then the
sifted -four, with salt and cornstarch.
Evening star., 1915-02-07
Making Pancakes and Wafaes.

A N aluminium or a soapstone grid
IN die should be used for pancakes
e q and if either be kept clean with
rubbings of dry salt, applied with a
soft cotton cloth. and il the housewife
remembers to put a tablespoonful OF
lard or drippings in her batter. no
other frying medium will be required
nor will there be any disagreeablt
smoke or odor from sizzling fat. The
aluminium griddle has the additional
virtue of being light and easy to han
die. To rub the griddle with raw
potato, raw turnip or small bag OF
salt will prevent the cakes from stick
ing.
As is we'll known, the foundation OF
all pancakes Is batter. Batter is an
old Saxon word meaning ito beat"
and certain 1t is that unless the mix
ture Is well beaten good pancakes can
not be made. for on this process de-
pends that Iightness which is SO es-
sential
Place the -four and salt in a large
bowl and make hollow in the center.
Break the eggs that are to be used.
one at time. into cup. to see that
they are fresh. Mix them with the
other ingredients. Place all. with a
little milk, in the hollow. Stir with a
wooden spoon and let the -four mix
with it from the sides. Gradually add
more milk until all is used and the
mixture is perfectly smooth. Beat well
with the spoon and pour the batter.
which should be of the consistency OF
thin cream, into a pitcher. Let stand
for some time. The longer 1t stands
the lighter it should be. Stir thor
oughly just before using. When
pale brown on the under side. either
no object in tossing cakes. except that
it is a quick way of turning them
When a nice brown on both sides.
place on a very hot dish. sprinkle with
sugar and roll. Sliced lemon or orange
may be served with them. or they may
be buttered. IL preferred. and eaten
with sirup. Too much fat, or not hav-
ing it sufficiently hot, is one OF the
chief causes Of indigestible pancakes.
Properly prepared and well cooked.
they are as digestible as delicious. and
a little care and the strict following
of a good receipt are all that Is needed
for success.
Bread Pancakes.
Take one and one-half cups Of flour.
one cup of stale breadcrumbs, three
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one
teaspoonful Of salt. two tablespoon
fuls of sugar. one-hah cup Of boiling
water, three-quarters cup of milk. one
egg, well beaten. and two tablespoon
fuls of melted butter. Add the boiling
water to the breadcrumbs and let stand
for five minutes: Add the milk. sift to-
gar aud baking powder and add to the
Evening star., 1915-02-07
Short Cuts for H@ws@k@@pers
Corn Pancakes.

bread mixture. Then add the egg and
butter.
Evening star., 1915-02-07
Voluminous Wells.

one of the new wells. of the voiumi-
nous sort, has a small embroidered flow
er in bright color placed so that II will
come over one cheek. Another hig
veil is usually voluminous, and Is a
big, irregular circle, with circumfer-
ence of almost three yards. 1t is
thrown over the hat SO that the center
of the veil and the center of the hat
crown coincide and the wide edges
hang unevenly down over the arms and
back and chest This sort of Veil Is
edged with two narrow bias folds of
silk of a contra sting shade-white on
black, black on brown