Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-08-29

| BILE for the majority to take up W
such an extreme and trying s.sle.
| viii persuade the wrong type OF wor-
an to buy one. t.
Many of the new hats are draped III IN
| a fashion that prevailed three s,,s
| ago There is a slight brfm that rolls
] at the side, and the crown is mass y.
| more or less skillfully arranged velset
| mounting higher and higher one con-
| forting fact about these new 1ashloils
shape, which is peculiarly suited to me
average American face. ana WINCH
| after all: has smartness thai Is am.
| cult to equal in the hat that Is maoe
to serve every moment.
AS opposed to these draped hats there
| is strong attempt to create some
thing that resembles the tricorn OF me
Bourbon kings. and milliners with
this idea as many brilliant inventions;
There are black. also bordeaux req
hats, that run far out in the back, but
are shaped to points in the front ana
back. These are caughtwith orna-
ments of steel beading, a kind of trim
ming which will evidently be the main
stay Of the milliners II one Is to judge
by the showing of the autumn hats
There are other hats that are def
nitely tricorn. They have the points
attached to the crown and always
I touched off with brilliant ornament.
usually beaded.
France must have had thousands of
beads in the back workrooms and
! thousands of fingers waiting for nimble
| work, for the milliners and even the
dressmakers have featured beading
above all other trimming. 1t Is not
only done in cut steel. but In colored
crystals.
1t is not only in the usage of much
beading that we see the helping hand
given to the needy sewing women Of
Paris, who have come near starvation
during the year of fighting, but also
in the use of embroidery and other
kinds of needlework. Feather stitch
ing is put on cloth frocks. snfrring
with a special stitch is highly exploit
ed, bands of embroidery in silk floss
are placed on cloth and velvet gowns;
metal. silver and gold are lavishly used
for ornamentin~ special frocks and
wraps and hats.
Cording and fine braiding have been
returned also to fashion, the kind that
are used on green cloth coat suits
which are In the forefront of fashion.
Skirt yokes. the armholes of blouse
Jumpers, the edge Of collars, the seams
Of sleeves are each touched on with
this kind of braiding.
signor, who bought the place Of
Francis. the tailor of Queen Mary OF
England and the Princess Mary. has
made fashionable frock by wearing
it herself, which has a long cuirass
blouse of black chiffon entirely cover
ed by expert shirring, the kind that no
one can do but a needlewoman OF
training.
This frock was ordered by many OF
the American buyers and every order
meant the employment of hands that
might have been left Idle. Cheruit has
q gown with specialized shocking on
the yoke Of the circular skirt and this
puts money into the hands Of the
NEEDY.
Metal embroidery is high priced and
its lavish use in this seasons clothes
means that dozens ow women out OF
work will be able to eat and sleep in
peace without dreading the morrow.
At the Newport fashion show as we'll
as at the openings in Paris there was
an undoubted preference shown to the
pannier. Lucille has advocated it for
six months and will continue to do so.
costumes for Florence Walton have
proved.
In these she makes the pannier of
tulle or gold lace, sometimes wired to
stand out, again punched high in mass
|es Of materials. She has also returned
ed silk with flchu of organdie and high
loopings of the fabric over the skirt,
a kind of Mozartian costume which is
quite fetching.
Paris has shown an even more pro-
nounced form OF the pannier borrowed