The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-17

combination OF sheerest nainsook or
crepe de chine which is untrimmed save
for the narrowest possible edging OF
valenciennes on the V sha ped neck and
drawer bottoms and little fiat pump
bows OF satin ribbon which cross the
narrow straps on the shoulders and
are placed vertically, one at the point
OF ;he V decolletage. holding a few little
gathers that AFFORD bust funess, and
one on the bottom OF each drawer leg,
gathering 1t up slightly on the outside
line. This model is made too with
shoulder straps of ribbon instead OF
being cut to run over the shoulder.
One Of the absurd yet rather fasci-
mating princess corset cover and dra wer
combinations has suspenders OF batiste
in contrasting color fastening to the
drawer top and holding the garment
over the shoulder. A Fifth avenue inn
porter shows this combination and |
,nightgown to correspond in palest flesh |
pink with suspenders OF violet. and
one may smile at IT, but one cannot |
| deny its charm.
And. by the way, the very popular |
| lingerie department In this shop has
for buyer and general autocrat a quiet
but efficie"t young woman OF whom
| feminists. casting about for evidence
of womsn's surprising ability. should
| take note. few months ago she was
/ in a quandary. Her orders placed
abroad had not been filled-were not
likely to he filed. Much OF the EN-
| broidery for them was to have been
| done in the district that Is now
+, battle-ground Much OF the material for
| them was to have been turned out by
| looms that have been destroyed OF
carried into Germany Something had
| to he done, and the young woman did
| IL.
She announced that she was going
abroad. There was chorus OF dis
couragement, but the head OF the firm
gave her his blessing. also liberty to
draw on the firm. He believed in her.
He had had occasion
SO she went abroad. It's a long story.
The firms representatives in Paris, being
Germans, had left the place In the hands
OF a subordinate who had taken ad-
vantage OF the moratorium. The young
| woman cabled FOR a rather appalling
amount Of money. got it, paid all manu-
facturers &C. got together large num-
Der OF Partisan and country needle
women who were in Paris and out OF
work, gave them normal wages--at a
time when wOmen who have had ten
francs a day are working for two
rented rooms and started a factory OF
her own.
: Then she went about France. even
into the war districts. and by hook or
crook, liberal expenditure and indomi-
table persistence secured all the ma erals
she needed Her accounts OF the ex-
periences with which the quest was
crowded are tremendously interesting,
' but that's another story. The point Is
that she left the Paris workrooms in
good hands. with an ample force al
e work on her designs, and hurried back
4 to New York.
Now the coming season has no ter
o rors for her and already her new stock
n Is coming through without balk or de-
y lay. Looking at it's frothy frlvolity one
would hardly guess how much sheer
e nerve and energy and cleverness hac
g gone into the obtaining of IL.
The Empire hnes are asserting them
selves in lingerie a. in frocks. one
finds them in many combination gar
ments and even more generally in night
e gowns, where they supply some alto
gether delightful effects. Most of the
y nlghtgowns have short sleeves oper
up the outside and held by shoulder
p bows or straps or lacings Of ribbon, but
; the short closed kimono sleeve is much
used too. Here again one finds many
models Of the utmost severity, the En-
i plre line marked only by embroidered
eyelets through which ribbon is rur
T with a bow in front and the neck anc
y sleeves merely pioot edge finished oil
e softened by very narrow valencenne'
= and beading or merely scalloped and EN-
= broidered, with small eyelets FOR rib
~ bon below the edge.
z There are plenty Of more elaborate
e models too, models whose Whole bodice
Re sectAns are fashioned OF lace and EN-
e broidery. or are exauisitely inset with
v lace and beautified by tiny hand tuck
J. and hand embroidery. The square necl
II lines are regar ded with considerable ia