The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21

as IL Indicated In two Of the eowrs
Illustrated here.
Bodies. beyond the slight changes
in the ne already mentioned. are not
remarkably different from those OF
yesteryear. Perhaps the decolletase is
NJ % pronounced. Backs are less
revealing-a thing for which to be
thankful. though comparatively fen
Paquin and the other radicals to their
bareback limit last season.
There ID at least one thing to be
said for the corset. II may. as II runs
higher. make a low decolletage In frost
more Objectionable than decolletage OF
the same depth would be with a very
low corset or uncorseted figure. but Il
does not lend .tseif to such utterly I'M
dressed effects az does the abbreviated
corset or the utter lack Of corset.
Sleeveless bodices with the slightest
Of shoulder straps are still liked. Dit
, there IA very often some sort Of tulle
scarf or wing s!eev draper. that par
TALLY wells the arm n eoftens the
armhole Inc.
Metallic threads in wonderful
brocades and in trimming and metallic
! aces and nets and banding Civ
! sumptuousness to the handsome eve
ming " and pa.ilettes used in many
WAYS add to this b~rilliance.
These are the favored trimmings.
though the name in which they are
| used and the quantity used worry
greatly. and in many models practi-
ca.ly all the e,eam and glitter IS soft
ened by yelling Of tulle.
Intricate arrangements Of plain
| tulle. metallic embroidered tulle. me-
tallic lace. &c. skilfu.ly combined into
a harmonious whole and given body
. by overdrapery OF some wonderful
bit OF brocade. or rich. plain toned
silk or velvet. are many and begxar
description: but quite as handsome. II
not so subtle. are simpler effects. IN
which practically all OF the draped
skirt IL OF some beautiful silk or veil
vet. with just a glimpse OF lace or ne,
and gold or silver in an underssirt, and
| the bodice is semi-transparent above
q drspery or lower section Of the silk.
Take. for example. the three trained
frocks pictured on this page. Not
phenomenal in point Of trimming de-
tail. but exquisite in material and
color. lovely and mod!sh in line and
with their few touches o. trimming
skilfully posed.
one Is in silver brocaded pink silk
a theme repeated over and over again
in all shades Of pink and an all kinds
Of silk. No color!ng Is better liked and
none Is loyelier. though the endless
repetition pretudices some ome
against Il. Domestic manufacturers
have turned out some very creditable
silks In the silver brocades. chiefly OF
the sort with separate spaced nose
gays Of silver on a plain ground. and
the French looms have. despite war
times. sent over some superb metallic
Srocades.
Tha. the American trade has as
sumed more than !ts usue importance
in the European eye il shown by the
fact that this season Lyons manufac-
turerr have been willing 10 adop, color
schemes TO suit the wishes OF some Of
our best manufacturing houses-a
thing common enough where the great
French dressmakers are concerned. but
new in connection with our domestic
designers.
one Of our most successful designers
OF high class ready 20 wear frocks
mentioned his fact as he showed one
OF his most successful models.
"A wonderful silk, isn't it," he said,
smoothing the beautiful brocade,
The agen, SHOWED me that In another
coloring and I lost my heart to the
design n texture. but I dreamed I,
In his coloring. So | said I'd take a
lot Of Il II ! could have il as | wanted
IL and he took me W like a shot. That
shows how much they need trade and
where American trade stands in thir
year when Europe is not go ne in for
gorgeous clothes. 1t seems a bit as II