The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-22
NMER FIGURES DEMANDED BY NEW NODES THIS FALL
Flaring Skirts Remain, but SLOUGH
Will Pass if Woman P'retends to
Conform to Autumn STYLES

clothes will ft better than they would
over the old and more comfortable
corset, and one may as well get used
TO the conditions one is sure to accept
sooner or later. II is to be hoped
that really tight lacing will
again be Endorsed by women but II
must be admitted that the natural
figure" corset has not tended to give
us the natural figure at its best.
The %princesse frocks, so many
among the advance models, demand
more shapeliness of corset lines II they
are to be successfully worn. and even
the girdled frock of the modish sort
is a thing different from the bloused
and negligent garment Of recent sea-
sons. 1t has "A certain suggestion
Of trimness, calls for a wearer erect,
alert, walking with a brisk martial
air. That martial feeling in
the fashionable air is the chief
effect of the war in evidence
among to-day's modes. Definitely
military fashions are few. There is
a good deal of braid used, army blue
and several other colors inspired by
th> wal are liked. Some of the SOL
diers' uniforms have suggested va
rious cape arrangements. Zouave
pockets have found their way to
frocks, and there are other little
fashion notes of military origin. while
the subduing Of color schemes. even
now when the rage for black and for
black and white has passed, is due
to war time feeling: but, on the
whole. French designers have, with
taste. refrained from ex-
plotting fashions distinctly military.
This is not a var pour vivc."
As usual, n majority of the first
frocks for autumn wear are In dark
blue, though there Is a rumor hat
dark blue materials may he scarce
later on. As usual, too, dark blue
serge is first favorite. with gabardine
a close second and taffeta, frilled soft
satin and gros de Londres featured
silks. \ new woollen material
of the ~gabardine family called Gotta
cloth is considerably used too. but
the casual observer will class II as
gabardine.
Many combinations of material ap-
pear in these first general utility
but as n rule the materials
in color IL not In weave. one
tone effects being the rule. A good
deal is being done with light browns
lovely shades with. pretty tones or
into fawn m beige colorinr
The modish browns shade on down
through nut and loan and Havana
tones to very dark browns of a soft
tete de negre character, and
the whole line is promised popular
lily. as are the soft and beautiful
medium and dark greens.
Heavy chiffon cloth is used in
great quantities for combination with
both SILK and wool, and for the thor
useful autumn frock dressy
enough for afternoon wear yet not
S'N va P'"'' A'i Sli'tl suit Sttln OF
faille in dark or Neutral color COM
bined with chiffon cloth in the same
color is a most desirable choice
With ~Gabardine, too, the heavy chiffon
is good, but this combination is
at its best when the wool material
on lines suggesting a rcdingote
and the chiffon cloth Is limited TO a
petticoat front. waistcoat and, per-
haps. sleeves.
Those full sleeves with which we
have for two seasons, been threat
ened are, by the way, appearing in
force this season, and while
there are still plenty OF moderately
fitting sleeves worn and such
will undoubtedly be accepted
all through the winter, fuller sleeves
will without question. make n strong
showing. The lines so far most in
evidence among the new French
are n close fitting lower
or gauntlet cuff over which a
moderately full upper sleeve droops a
little at the elbow; but there are
smart models with upper sleeve Sec