davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-07-28

Supervisor Logan's resolution pro
viding for the expenditure of 1921 In
the purchase of law books for the Ho-
nolulu district court passed its third
reading.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-07-28

A card Of thanks was received last
night by the board Of supervisors from
the family of the late David Kalauoka-
lani, Sr.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-07-28
MEMO'S OF MEETING OF
CITY SUPERVISORS

The board adjourned last night at
Ii 10 to meet again tomorrow at noon
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-07-28

supervisor Arnold's city planning
ordinance passed its first reading last
night.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-07-28

G. o. Warren of Boston, one OF the
inventors and patentees of Warren
iten and '.bitulithic'' paving. was a Wis
itor at last nights meeting.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-07-28

supervisor Larsen's resolution,
which provides for the dimming OF au-
tomobile lights, after long series OF
delays, was again deferred.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09
GOWNS IN BECOMING EMPIRE STYLE
INTERESTING MODELS THAT SHOW
THE NEWEST FASHION FEATURES

THls is the season when girls are
looking ahead TO Commence
ment and 70 all the various enter
tainments and fetes that great event
is sure to mean. Here is a fascinating
little frock that can be made either
with low or with half high neck, with
or without sleeves. and can be utilized
both for the evening occasions and
for the afternoon as we'll. II is En-
pire in effect and Empire lines arc
always becoming to the girls. Il is
absolutely simple and consequently
can be made with little effort and at
little expense while it is just as smart
and pretty as can be- There is a short
wasted body portion or lining TO
which the full straight skirt is attached
and the trimming at the front and
back and the drapery over the shoul-
ders are arranged over this lining,
and the girdle also is attached to 1t
at the upper edge. In the picture
silk net is trimmed with chiffon vel
vet and rosebud banding but all the
pretty. dainty materials that girls
like can be utilized for the model.
Silk voile or chiffon would make up
most effectively, and some Of the new
cotton stuffs arc really exquisite, and
either fine cotton crepe or cotton
voile would be charming with trim
ming Of taffeta.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

MPIRE models are always be-
II, coming to girlish figures. lust
now the girls Empire frock is
N the height Of style, and here is
Sne Of the prettiest possible. The
iull skirt is arranged over a narrower
foundation and the tunic idea is
always, charming. The plain little
BODY portion is the real Empire effect
snd the frill across the lower edge
emphasizes the high waist line In
sne view, lowered silk crepe is com
bined with charmeuse satin. In the
smaller view, embroidered voie is
used over messaline and the model is
. good one for many materials. Plain
,repe de chine would be lovely in
slace Of the material mentioned, and
,hiffon could be used, or the net that
Is so well liked. II the ruffle at the
over edge is not becoming. the edge
tan be bound or banded with a little
iur or embroidered with a few beads
10 make good effect.
For the 10 year size will be required
~ yds. Of material ~ in. wide 3 yds.
60, as yds. "a, for the skirt and
bodice al yds. ~, az yds. 90 or "a.
Tor tunic and sleeves, with q yd.
y or SO, y yd. a., for the rufies.
To make as shown in the back view,
s14 yds. 80 for the skirt and sleeves
@ith 515 yds. houncing 81 in. wide
Nill be needed.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

We are promised a season Of rare OPP
portunity and rare beauty with Just
that range Of variety that makes it
possible for each woman to be dressed
at her best
Conspicuous in the display Of the
new fabrics are the bordercd materials
that are TO be found in such silks AS
gros de Londre and laille, in crepes
and in tafieta and thy arc shown in
chiffon to be really marvcllously ex-
quisite and in many Of the less costly
fabrics that are made OF both wool and
cotton. Whenever bordercd materials
arc unusually attractive. the straight
skirts will prevail. An exceedingly
interesting development OF the situa-
tion is d gown that is made with skirt
Of such material and with a little
pointed bodice Of velvet either in black
or in harmonizing color An exceed
ingly beautiful model OF the Kind
combines chiffon with velvet and the
chiffon Is so designed that il gives
graduation OF colors from the hem
to the bust At the hem it is black,
shading gently into a soft gray over
which are shadowy flowers Of the
palcst pink and above the howeis, it
shades into a pale pink that deepcns
in tone until il is wonderful cerise at
the belt. The skirt is simple, straight
and gathered, that the color effect
may appear at its best. The bodice
l. a little pointed one Of the velvet
matching the deepest red. II is laced
together at the front. Is cut with
round neck and without sleeves and
Is worn over a enimpc OF white net
that drapes the upper edge most
oharmingly and provides short drapcd
sleeves. To obtain the ,cr, wide
skirts that already are IN demand
without too much bulk over tho hips.
nounecs frequently are sewcd one to
Evening journal., 1915-03-09
LATEST FASHION NOTES
FROM THE FASHION CENTERS

mentioned last week, VIC have those
that are named after the Western
Exposition whose doors are so soon
to open and we have also the grays
that suggest the quiet tones Of the
uniforms Of the soldiers when il is
desirable to avoid recognition and then
we have the brilliant Military effects
Of the dress uniforms that are worn
upon parade and We have indeed a
great many echoes Of the prevailing
conditions that difcrcntiates the
season from any other We have known.
One Of the newest blues is called sol
dier blue. Il is not the tone We are
accustomed to think Of by that name,
but beautiful. grsyish blue that can
be trusted to blend with the horizon
and render him as iuoonspicuous as a
moving object can be. We have a
lattice green that is just the color that
will be shown on some of the decora-
tions of the Exposition grounds and
VIC have various other colors and
names that are equally suggestive.
In fabrics arc many Of notable beauty
that are soft and lustrous.
That We arc 70 have wide skirts
and extended sfiru. notifications Of
the Crinoliue idea. is demonstrated
day by day. In the union Of such
fashions with the soft silks, is to be
found another interest. The silks are
lovely as those Of our grandmothers
we're not, for they take beautiful folds
and beautiful lines and are without
stiffness. To obtain the desired effect
cords. rulilcs. nounces and trimmings
Of all sorts arc used. We are taking
on suggestions from the Victorian
Era but VIC arc making them our very
own by means Of variations. adapta-
tions and the like.
For the dance and for all indoor
functions. there will be a dominant
picturesque or quaint note; for the
street, simple styles and tailored
effects will prevail and no matter
what notifications will occur. it is
certain that these two conditions will
remain In Florida. white serge. white
gabardine and white flannel made into
simple coat suits make the prevailing
costumes Tor morning wear. For the
dinner and Tor the dance. there Is no
limit 10 be SCI. but it Is safe to saw
that nothing that Is extreme. nothing
that is bizarre. nothing that Is over
done will have any permanent place.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

and tucks or with hem only and since
the material and finish make the dil-
ference between the every day irock
and the one designed for more formal
occasions, the one pattern can be
made available In several ways. Here
hnc French nainsook is trimmed with
dainty embroidery. and very dii-
icrcnt effect would result from finish
iue the lower edge with hand-sewed
hem and fine tucks and these tucks
can be left plain or be headed with
rows OF narrow insertion, and the yoke
in place OF being cut from all-over
material. can be made from plain
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

the other. A most attractive costume
designed for a debutantc Is made in
thai way. each hounoe being slightly
full and Joined to the succeeding one
10y means Of silk-covercd cord The
cords providing sufficient flare to give
the lines that are demanded by the
latest decree. AT the lower edge Of
the skirt is narrow band Of black
velvet ribbon and the little pointed
bodice is all Of black velvet with white
net finishing its upper edge. The black
in contrast with the fowcrcd silk is
exceedingly beautiful and the whole
costume is one OF the quaint and
interesting sort that always calls for
comment. Velvet ribbon indeed.
may he counted among the revivals-
II is being extensively used in black
and in color and is perfectly adapted
TO the lowered silk. a most charming
gown that is being packed tor Florida
is made Of taffcta in a fascinating
shade Of rose There Is three-pieoe
skirt that is edged with two narrow
gathered rufiics and these ruiAe- arc
each finished at their lower edges with
d single band of black velvet ribbon
less than onc-hall an inch in width.
while at the upper edges they are
turned under to form little headings
The bodice is a mobilization Of the
baby idea for ii is cut With round neck
and short pulled sleeves and is softly
draped, but is extended at the front
to form "a pointed girdle and at the
back is finished with loopcd bow
and ends OF black velvet ribbon and
around the neck and finishing the
sleeves are velvet edged lrills like those
on the skirt
An afternoon costume is made Of
tafeta in one Of the wonderful change
able effects that are obtained by many
primary colors. but it gives the effect
ol pink silyery touches. Il consists
Of 4 full skirt shirred over cords TO
form deep Empire eirdle and
trimmed at about knee depth with
three pinked-out ruiiles.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

suffer the paugs of poverty added TO
others that war entails. but we never
theless must realize that home talent
is to be encouraged, that we have
artists on this side Of the sea and that
il is time that we outgrew the fetch
that seems to possess the words I'M
ported" and Partisan" with special
charm and significance whether the
actual output merits it or does not.
AS has been stated in previous letters,
il is being demonstrated week by week
that We can and do dye wonderful
colors, that we can and do make
wonderful fabrics and what we need
to stimulate these industries and to give
to their owners that sense Of personal
pride that is perhaps the greatest
asset of the foreign manufacturers,
the appreciation of American buyers,
the willingness to look for home pro-
ducts and to pay for home products
and just that encouragement which
always comes with recognition. Our
manufacturing interests are too young
in this country TO have that inherent
pride which belongs to the foreigner.
1t is not often that a single industry
remains ia a family from generation
to generation and if we can build
up Just that condition and bring about
that sense Of pride, we will have
gone a long way toward creating a
condition from which we may expect
an output equal to any that the world
has TO show.
This season, colors are wonderfully
beautiful and are wonderfully inter
estiug. In addition to the color card
ss67 Empire Dress for Misses and
Small Women, 10 and rs years.
s575 Short Coat, "a TO y bust.
ss7I-A Two-Pieoe Skirt, "a to a waist.
. ss77 Blouse with Turned Over Collar
and Cuffs. "a TO - bust.
Sso5 Plated Skirt with Yoke. "a to
So waist.
$3.50 Girls Dress, 10 to II years.
sss4 Short Coat for Misses and Small
Women. 10 and IS years.
sso7 Two-Piece Skirt for Misses and
Small Women, 10 and rs years.
ssS5 Blouse with or without Bolero
Over-Portion, 81 10 - bust.
ss74 Straight Gathered Skirt. - to
= waist.
1886 Infants Wrapper. One Size.
sois Infants Onc-Piecc Kimono.
Ono Size.
800 Infants Dress with Round Yoke
One size
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

FEBRUARY may fairly be said TO
be the month Of expectancy In
the world of dress. The French
pening will take place before its close
ind there are always advance rumors
# what will be shown. The Southern
escorts are not alone open, they are
,roying the height Of the season and
~hether we are numbered among the
brtunate few who seek them or among
;he stay-at-homes, we are apt to be
considering what is TO be worn when
he stormy season shall have passed
md Spring is with us. This season
makes no exception to the rule and
here is perhaps a greater sense Of
interest than common for the reason
hat conditions are peculiar and that
here is a great deal Of effort being
made to get the best of the home
alent TO take advantage Of the op-
,ortunity for exploitation which does
lot come every year. The very fact
hat Paris has announced its usual
february displays entities that city
10 the keenest interest and apprecia-
ion Tor the work must have been done
inder exceptionally trying conditions
ind gives evidence not alone Of the
londerful ability for which the French
ire noted, but also Of a steadfastuess
,f purpose and a determination to
continue even in face of a tragedy.
hat cannot fail to win admiration.
Ne must be glad to know that the
iressmakers are equal to their task
md it cannot fail TO be a gratihca-
lion to realize that there will be eni-
oloyed many who otherwise might
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS
1887 Empire Dress for Misses and
Small Women, 10 and IS wears
is77-A Empire Gown. "a to AZ bust.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09
SIMPLICITY FEATURE OF SPRING COSTUMES
BY MAY MANTON

the smaricst finish For the coat
suits, short jackets prevail and haring
effects are the rule, flare is accom-
plished by means Of plaits and by
circular shaping. for both are quslly
smart while a great many straight
gathered skirts Of thinner materials
also will be worn
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

VHlS Spring is to he essentially
season Of simple effects, for
the street costumes at least.
The tailored suit has returned to
favor and the shirt waist has come
into its own. Plain blouscs are the
preferred ones for morning wear and
high collars and long sleeves make
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

both are adapted to the purpose and
cashmere is often a better weight
than any flannel could he. Both pale
blue and pale pink always are good
colors and white is pretty embroid-
cred either with white or with color.
The pattern is perforated for sacque
length and really that means two
garments for the sacque serves quite
a different purpose from the long
kimono To make the kimono will
require rs yds. Of material ~ in.
wide. IA yds. 80 or a in. wide. and
for the sacque viii be needed 4 I'd.
any width.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09
GARMENTS FOR THE WEE BABY

material and embroidered with hne
lace used as a finish and when frock
is made in that way it Is Just Is
elaborate as any that baby could
need. To make it will require as
yds. OF material 80 in. wide or ~
in. vide, with 4 yds. Of embroidery
sia yds. of insertion to trim as
illustrated
The little kimono seems especially
adapted TO fine soft flannel. cashmere
albalross and materials Of the sort
In the picture, il is made Of white
silk flannel and the effect is charming,
but French flannel. Scotch flannel
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

TINE plain gown in Empire style
Is one of the very latest develop
ments and this model is espec-
tally attractive for the reason that it
can be utilized for many materials
and finished in two different ways
On the figure, the neck is high with
stock collar. but the suggestion for
the V-shaped neck with a high mill
tary collar at the back and sides.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

which Is shown in the small view, is
a good one and will be preferred by
many women. Lorg sleeves are
smart, but there is no fixed rule and
those Of three-quarter length are
quite correct. they are finished with
pointed cuffs and these cuffs may be
Of the same material or Of the trim
ming Just now there is a notable
fancy for sleeves Of a different ma
terial, but here again there is oppor-
tunity for choice since matching
sleeves are used in equal numbers
In the picture the gown is made Of
eabardine, the sleeves and trimming
are Of velvet and braiding Of soutache
which is both handsome and fashion
able. but the model is one that can
be utilized for a still handsomer gown
Of velvet. of broadcloth. or Of char
meuse satin, or Of any material which
is heavy enough to be made in so
simple style.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

especial feature. The third costume.
which is shown on the figure at the
extreme right, is extremely attractive
and graceful and is adapted TO all
materials that are thin enough 10
he made full successfully. The straighf
shirt Is Joined to a circular yoke and
the blouse is perfectly plain one
but with a bolcro over portion that
completely transforms il. Here the
bolero and the skirt are made Of one
material with the blouse Of thinner
one in matching color. but the de-
sign can be treated in various ways.
AZ shown here it is adapted TO the
street, but If the skirt and the bolero
were made Of lace hounciug with the
blouse Of soft satin or crepe and the
same material used for the woke. it
would be adapted to the afternoon
dance.
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

I TERE are three garments that
II will 60 a long way toward
= making the wee baby comfort
able. There is a simple little dress
TO be worn in the daytime and there
is almost dainty little wrapper cm-
broidered and finished with needle
work. that can be slipped on when
Miss Highness is cold. and there is
plain little wrapper that is per-
fectly adapted 10 morning wear
while baby is waiting for her bath
The dress is made with round yoke
and can be finished with a lrill Of
embroidery as it is here or with hem
Evening journal., 1915-03-09

In the group are shown three good
examples Of womeus costumes. The
coat suit combines the lavorite sabar-
dine with a charmcusc trimming. Il
is Tuxedo brown in color and repre-
scnts the smartest and best in COS
tunes Of the sort for the stitched
finish and general reserve Of trim
ming make important characteristics
OF the season. The yoke skirt and
shirt waist on the second figure are
both new and boch smart The skirt
is a good ono for the coat suit for the
gown and also for the odd skirt
without which no womans wardrobe
is complete. Here it is made Of wool
popin and the blouse is made Of
cnipe dc chine with collar and cuffs
Of a heavier material The row Of
buttons right down the front which
extends through the collar makes an
The Hickman courier. [volume] (Hickman, Ky.) 1859-current, 1915-08-05
AN ADVANCE EASTER LAYOUT

nphb you in sci nddm Cbudpea nBe
oil e a o our big casters
easy % dispose
\ d to y hI q
VII ~
campaign
churches possible man publish siderable
ple r power of advertising
The Hickman courier. [volume] (Hickman, Ky.) 1859-current, 1915-08-05

ma.l-.u.- ~ a 49, - A.---,.--- W. y. ~
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-01-23
Amona the Hiohbrows.

A famous baseball nan is a prolific
story teller, and oftentimes his yarns
are the source of amusement to his
friends. Here is one of his new
ones:
"A friend of mine, a metropolitan
merchant, who had amassed quite a
fortune by close application to his
business, was being entertained one
evening at a friends house, where
he encountered a number of young
woman graduates, whose conversation
suddenly turned to a discussion of the
development of the English novel.
THE merchant speedily experienced
a feeling within which told him that
he was out of it. After a few min
utes of animated colloquy, during a
brief respite, one of the young women
turned to him sweetly and asked:
What do you think of Fielding,
Mr.. Ellis?'
"'Oh, fielding is important, OF
course our friend quickly responded.
but it isn't worth much unless you've
got good pitchers and men who can
hit the ball. "-Harper's Magazine.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-01-23
LOCATE BULLET BY PHONE
London Surgeons Have New Me.hod
of Discovering Presence Of
Foreign Body.

London. One of the romantic
touches in modern surgery which the
exigencies of the present war have
introduced is a method of detecting
bullets and fragments of shell in the
human body by means of a telephone.
This method is employed in special
cases in one of the large London hos
pitfalls.
To a telephone receiver two short
lengths of wire are attached. One Of
these ends in a small piece of plati-
mum; this is placed upon any part of
the patients skin which has been
moistened with salt water. The other
end Of the wire terminates in a thread
of antiseptic silver, and this is bound
around the surgeons probe or lancet
or other instrument. The surgeon then
places the receiver to his ear and
makes the incision.
The instant the instrument touches
the bullet a very distinct rattle is
heard, quite different from the faint
murmur audible as the instrument
merely cuts through the flesh, and in
this way when X-rays fail, as they
sometimes do, the foreign substance
is located.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-01-23
oldest Old oaksn Bucket.

Gardens in Palestine are found main
Iy in the enviroLs of the larger towns
and owe their existence to springs and
fountains VIII Sc precious waters give
life to the fruits and flowers, orchards.
parks and pleasure grounds which
enter into the oriental conception Of
Paradise. Where no running stream
exists they depend for life upon capa-
cious cisterns which drink water
from the rain of heaven" They are
always carefully inclosed and protect.
ed by hedges. walls and bitches. and
the traveller is surprised amid the heat
and glare of the Syrian sun to enter
their p~leasan. pathways and find re-
tired and shady hooks under embow-
ering greenery. Their secluded re-
cesses have always been a favorite re-
sort for purposes of devotion. They
are often the gathering place of fam
lilies and friends and the token of
peace and security is when a man may
sit in safely under his own vine and
fig tree.--Christian Herald.
The Kansas City sun. (Kansas City, Mo.) 1908-1924, 1915-01-23
SAVE THE COST OF SPRAYING
Martins and 5luebirds Should Have
Houses Provided for Them Near
the Orchard.

The American Bird House Journal
says that farmers and orchardists can
avoid the cost of spraying fruit trees
by providing the purple martins with
a residence in or e the orchard and
encouraging these intelligent birds to
keep down the insect pests. The pa
per produces evidence to show that
the martins protected a certain Or
chard to such an extent that great
crops of fruit were raised without any
spraying at all. 1t may be too much
to that the birds will take
care of all tree pests; the San Jose
scale, for instance, must be beyond
the reach of any bird. But there is
no doubt about the activity and the
value of martins and bluebirds in fight
ing insect pests, nor any doubt at all
of the readiness of these birds to oc-
cupy and take advantage of the nice
little houses provided for them, pro-
vided the English sparrows are kept
at their distance.