davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03

saute in butter. then boiled in capon
broth and finally seasoned with Par
mesan cheese and saffron. 1t is one Of
the celebrated Milanese dishes. Those
who do not like saffron prefer the sim
pier preparations of risotto al sugo, al
burro or con fegatini. Better still is a
very we'll known dish of another town,
rissoto Cetoslno. in which the rice is
seasoned with a sauce of crayiish and
garnished with their tails. Risotto with
white truflles Is an epicurean dish Of
Leghorn.
Fritto misto claims a place on most
of the Italian bills of fare. 1t Is mixed
grill Of chicken llvers and other dainties
There Is decided difference in the
flavor Of the fritto misto OF Milan and
Genoa, however
The best veal outlets in the world are
to be found in Milan. and the Miano
sausages are quite as famed as those Of
Bologna, which is the home of the great
"Codegnino,' boiled and served with
spinach or mashed potatoes. and the
large ball shaped "Murtadella" often
eaten raw. The stuffed forelcg Of a
pig, boiled and served with spinach and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03
TAUGHT BY GEN. JEB STUART.

GtT~ WENTY- EIGHT years ago when
/ was in Germany studying
art" said q New York artist,
81 had a friend who was a sub-Lieuten-
ant in tho army. Like most German
officers he was an enthusiastic soldier
militarlst we call them now-and one
day he brought a book to me TO read
because it was, he said an authority
with all German officers in tactical mat
ters and was really part of their military
education.
81 was not especially interested, not
being much of soldier, but when |
saw the book my interest very ma
terially increased, for 1t was a copy y
'Drei Jahre I'm Sattel,' by Heros Won
Borke, the representative of Germany
with Gen. Jeb Stuart's cavalry in orr
civil war, the English title being Three
Years in the Saddle Won Borke Nad
not only been with the Confederate Ger
eral for three years. but he was IN 10
thick Of II and had written a story y "
was intensely interesting for rs darns
adventure and was OF such technical
and tactical value as TO warrant INC
unusual position accorded 1t by Gernaa
military authorities.
"The fact that | was a Yankee '''
not lessen my pride the least In Cen,
Stuarts work for We were all -'l
Americans by that time and wa prond
10 know that VIC were teaching Hc''
many one style Of fighting anyhow iN'
book was in German and ] suppose 1
has been translated, though ha'.
never seen copy outside OF German"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03
Italv Has Solved High Cost of Living Problem

table anchovles. without which, Of
course, no italian salad would be COM
plete. SO much for the antipasto.
Then comes the spaghetti. served with
delicious dark red tomato sauce.
After the spaghetti appears the flsh
Of three sorts in smoking platter, and
you are supposed to try each variety
Poultry or game is usually served.
The most esteemed Italian chicken
is the pole a la caCclatore. or chicken
hunter style. 1t is chicken fried in oil
and covered with a delicious sauce in
which fingers the flavor Of garlic. Just
enough to give it a pleasant flavor
Then there are tomatoes, fresh mush-
rooms, trufIles and tiny onion or two,
and with this some romaine salad. Iced
bombcs Of fruit and cream are fire.
quently served and fruit is eaten as a
salad with wine or liqueurs. oil Is much
used I'm cookery in place Of butter and
wine enters largely into the compost
ton of sauces. Much Of the pastry is
manufactured with oil.
| The finest bean in the world grows
in Italy. Its name is favo luppini
| Rather bitter at first, when well cooked
ii has flavor incompatible. The
equal. They are cooked with the
spaghetti and help to give it its par
ticular excellence.
But the most delightful OF all Italian
vegetables, according 10 my humble
taste, is the artlchoke. It Is cooked in
various ways in different parts OF the
country. The Roman artichOle stewed
in oil is n rare morsel found at its best
i'm the old Jewish eating houses OF the
Ghetto. In Turin you must not miss
the white thistles, nor the white Pied
montese truiiles served as a salad Here
the Xucchani rpienl, which are stuffed
pumpkins. and fondata, the cheese OF
the district, are also worth samplng.
The most famous cheese OF Italy is
gorgonzola, Its home Is Milan. Par
mesan cheese takes its name from the
Duchess of Parma. who introduced il
into France, but the best quality is
found in Lodi. near Milan.
Ravioli are perhaps the best known Of
the paste dishes outside of the macaroni
preparations. They are served at nearly
every meal in Italy. They are delicate
little envelopes of paste containing force
meat of some kind. They are called
raviol both at Genoa and Florence, but
at Bologna they are tortolinI and at
Turin are known as agrolotti,
The staple soup Of Italy is called
minestrone, The minestrone Ia
/ Milancsc Is especially delicious. II
ahounds in vegetables, with a sugges
ton of Psrmesan chee.e. Genoa''
speciality Is minestrore soup Favored
with a paste in which pounded basil
garlic, Sardinia cheese and olive oil ar,
used. Zuppi di VOngOlc Is a clear souI
of vongole, the little shellfish of Naples
The zuppa di peCCi is soup made from
the little shelti,h called peoci in Venice
1t appears under other names at Spezzif
and Naples, and 90 fond are Venetian,
OF it that they flavor their rice with
sauce made from the soup.
The rice dishes are many and de-
licious. RsOtto Milanese is rice slightly
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03
CHESTNUT RECIPES.

Tor the housewife in search OF
something out OF the ordinary in
the matter of cookery the follow
ing chestnut recipes may prove both in
teresting and acceptable;
Chestnut Soup (Spanlsh) Peel and
skin three quarters of pound OF chest
nuts, put them into saucepan, cover
them with good white stock and simmer
gently until they are quite tender when
they must be drained and rubbed
through fine wire sieve. Into another
saucepan put a quart OF white favored
stock, quarter of a pint Of cream and
the thinly pared rind of half a lemon;
allow The lemon rind to infuse In the
stock and cream beside a slow fire for
about half hour, then remove it and
stir In the chestnut -four, season
to taste OF salt and sweet red peppers
and two or three tablespoonfuls OF yell
low peas tSpanish). Bring the soup to
a boil and send to table with small
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03
nv RUTLEDGE RUTHERFORD.

-rAI.Y can give even the German
housewife lessons in economy, II
is the one land which seems entirely
tn have solved the high cost OF Nv
ing problem. In the event Of war Italy
could feed her subjects at less expense
than any other nation in Europe
Among the poorer classes the meal
often consists of nothing more than
polenta, which is both bread and cruel
made from chestnut -four. Indeed. po-
lenta is the staff OF life OF the Italians.
The peasantry live almost entirely
upon l., but SO palatable and sustain
ing IL il that the rich do not disdaln II.
II Is prepared in many different forms,
Some of it is something like corn cakes.
The staple diet Of the peasant Is po-
lcnta cruel or mush. He likes il dressed
with a sauce Of oil and garlic in which
a few anchoVies have been chopped.
more expensive form is made with
chopped ham or other meats, and there
are many ways of preparing it with fruit
and Jam and spices, although such lux
uries, like the macaroni are out or the
reach OF the majority
Yes, Americans may consider II alb
surd, but macaroni IL prohibited lux
ury to the majority Of the Italian peo-
ple although il Is sold much cheaper
there than here. For Americans have
no conception OF poverty as the Italians
know f. Not poverty, either, for they
seem to keep strong and healthy.
"Stinted supply" perhaps would be a
better term.
Being very thicily settled coun-
try, with soil that has lost much Of it's
fertility through ages OF cultivation, the
battle for food in Italy IL a hard one.
The result is that the Italian has come
nearer than any other person to mas
tering the problem OF wholesome living
on small income Yet il Is unusual to
see an emaciated or dyspectic Italian.
An Italian laborer can live on Is cents
week. and whole families subslst on
so cents. Long ago Luigi CornarO, the
italian nobleman, gave TO the nation .
wonderful lesson in frugality. The son
OF race Of gourmets all Of whom had
died prematurely from overlndulgence
Cornaro decided to right about face, So
lie added fifty years TO his life by cut
ting down his ration to 9S ounces a week
Pan Q finocho me ibastan" (bread and
fennel leaves Is all ask to get alonsJ
declares the southern Italian wage
Garner. And the bread is usually polenta
made from chestnut -four. However
traits, nuts olives and olive oil are cheaT
enough 20 he within reach of all except
the very poorest classes, and even they
enjoy them occa sonally.
Italys food grows mostly on trees
IT is this fact which has done more
than all other causes combined to aiC
Ttnly in battling the peril of overpopu'
la ion In no other way is conservation
# resources brought to such high eff
cheney as In tree crops. The natOr
that eats the most meat IL the mos
eXtraVagant; that which subsists large
~ on cereal foods is economical, bu
the nation that gathers its food from
the trees is the most economical OF all
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03
All White Models for Wear at the
Winter Resorts Are Made Up
IN Many Materials

many other narrow turban shapes tilted
jauntily forward after a fashion oddly
contrasted with the close fitting head
covering toque Of recent seasons. The
Scotch cap has not yet appeared in
straw. but there are plenty of narrow
tip tilted turhans, many OF which go
almost as far in narrowness as those
same Scotch caps.
Little ribbon streamers nutter from
them. but most OF them have In addi-
ton to the narrow ribbons some trim
ming Of small flowers. This trim
ming often Is arranged in wreath form
around the crown above the band after
fashion grown familiar in correction
with certain narrow winter turhans, and
delectable combinations " small flowers
are pressed into service FOR the acN'ev-
ing Of unusual and successful color
schemes.
one of the narrowest and smallest of
these boat shaped or torpedo turbans
displayed by a well known importer Is
in the finest and softest OF black straw.
with a ribbon Of old blue and howrets
shading through many tones Of rose and
purple and tan. The average woman
would look absurd in 1t, as the average
woman has always looked in hats too
small for her head, but certain type OF
head can carry such an absurdity with
coquettish charm, and one can only
hope that the hats will find the right
women.
Luckily there are plenty OF more con-
/ servatve shapes, though all sit higher
/ upon the head than the hats OF a year
ago. are meant to tilt forward rather
than backward and presuppose close
couture.
Much tulle and mallncs are used, as
is customary at this time of the year
Whole has are made of them. They
are used for shrred rims of satin hats
and for full low crowns in connection
with satin or straw brims. And the So
called waterproof malines : made into
the fullest and sometimes the most
audaCious Of bows for the trimming OF
satin shapes otherwise untrimmed
Here again one finds the dark browns
much in evidence and II one is to trust
these advance model Indications spring
modes are t. allow the use Of dark
brown N place Of black Just as winter
modes have allowed il,
The straw brads with which we are
familiar all reappear, and nothing revo'
utionary has yet been launched, though
the peculiarly hard and unbecomng
bamboo straw shapes are rather more
numerous than they were last summer
and various highly glazed heavy looking
s.raws are put forward In the sailor
shapes.
Vanished leather trims some Of the
best looking of the plain tailored models
and a braided band OF vanished leather
strips Is liked 10y one Paris millinery
house for use upon the severe and
jaunty small hats Il straw or satin.
\ little Jet, too, is seen in trimming
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03
ny ELEANOR moyT BRAuNERD.

THE millinery shops are full of
bargains just now. Hats OF
velvet and fur are offered at
mere fractions Of their original
prices, and remembering that at least
three long months of cold weather are
ahead OF us many a woman is taking
advantage Of the bargains; but unless
the winter model is offered at figure
really tempting the wise woman at
this stage of the season will pass 1t by
in favor Of a midseason hat that she can
wear well into the spring.
Already one sees new models OF this
latter class. most OF them in satin ana
Of shapes closely following the success
frl winter lines Black, dark blue and
dark brown are the most popular colors
in satin. as they have been in velvet;
and even among the hats for Southern
wear these colors figure prominently
Some of the best looking of the Palm
Beach models are OF smoothly stretched
dark brown satin. with brim facing oil
fne white or natural tone straw.
One Fifth avenue milliner offers
particularly chic brim sailor of the type
launched last autumn in tete de Negro
satin faced with fine cream straw and
trimmed with only a rather narrow
band OF corded brown ribbon. The
same model II made in black, II dark
blue and in white.
All white hats for Southern wear are
made up in many materials. Soft white
leather is highly favored both for hats
and for trimmings and is combined with
satin or with straw. White corded silk
In another material used by the de-
slrners for the small white hat ant
white satin antique with its glossy
beaverike surface is combined VIII
straw as is white MORE.
The shapes. as has been said before
offer nothing actually new so far. N
Of the most successful small shapes o.
the winter are reproduced and there are
many of the medium wide brim models
too. 4 tendency shown in some o.
these wider brim winter hats toward
ar uprollng Of brim at the back be-
comes more radical in some Of the Satii
and straw models, and shape mucl
like that of the wide brim winter sailo'
but with decided upward curve of brin
in the back is shown by many milliner'
and Is most often trimmed merely 10y
an effective wired bow of narrow satir
posed at the front.
In satin. with facing OF straw and
bow of the same satin with which the
hat is covered, this is clever model
but 1t is shown too in straw and is eN'
ceedingly piquanf and summerlIke IT
fine Leghorn with the bow of ciel blue.
The small ana very narrow ma
sitting high upon the head and cooked
rather rakishly on one side has tounc
it's most radical expression in the Scooter
cap this winter. though there have beer
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03

|, fried crusts sprinkled with grated Par
mesan cheese. Ii will be found very
delicate.
White Chestnut Sauce Peel and skin
half pound of chestnuts, which boil
in milk until they are tender. when they
must be drained and rubbed through a
sieve into another saucepan and suf-
ficient cream added to the flour" to
thin It to the consistency required.
Season the sauce to taste with salt,
pepper and grated lemon rind; make
thoroughly hot without boiling). and
serve with either a roasted turkey
roasted fowls or roast of veal 1t is
also sometimes served with flleted soles.
Brown Chestnut Sauce.-Prepare the
chestnuts as before, but simmer them
In brown gravy instead of in milk; they
must then be drained dry upon a cloth.
fried to a rich brown hue in boiling oil,
rubbed through n sieve and thoroughly
incorporated with the proper quantity
of good brown sauce seasoned with
sugar. salt and cayenne pepper.
Chestnut Forcemeat CFrenCh) Put
into mortar two ounces Of bread boiled
soft in az much milk as it will absorb,
then squeezed dry, two ounces Of butter,
eight ounces of finely chopped veal,
eight ounces OF chestnut flour and
faggot OF thyme and parsley, minced
small: pound to paste and pass
through a wire sieve into "A basin, add
seasoning OF salt, white pepper and
grated lemon rind, also two or three
tablespoonfuls OF white sauce, and use
the forcemeat for the stufilng of tur-
key, fillet OF veal, fowls, fillets OF
sole, &C.
Chestnut Garndsh. Put into a basin
four ounces of fine -four a seasoning of
salt and pepper and a pinch of powdered
mace: stir together, then dilute TO
creamy batter with the beaten yolk OF
one egg and a gill OF tepid water In
which one ounce of butter has been
dissolved Stand the batter aside in a
cold place for at least two hours, then
stir into It lightly the whites OF two eggs
whisked 10 a stiff froth Have ready the
required number OF chestnuts, peeled,
skinned and cooked in milk until only
Just tender coat them with the batter
and fry to delicate amber hue in boil
ing oil or lard and use as a garnish for
any OF the dishes for which chestnut
sauce or chestnut forcemeat would be
suitable. Oysters may also be dressed"
in the same way and used with the
chestnut as a garnish.
Chestnut Tart-Put into a mortar
four ounces Of chestnut flour" four
ounces of powdered sugar, two ounces
Of fresh butter and a dessert spoonful
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03

We in America have found that 1t
takes nine pounds of corn To produce
one pound of meat. Hence the adj
monitions to- grow more cereals. But
the chestnut groves of Italy. the sources
Of polenta, produce six times az much
food TO the acre as any cereal crop.
single olive tree provides more susten-
ance than is grown on the average acre
of the American farm.
While the chestnut tree furnishes
Italy with bread and Cruel in the form
OF polenta, the olive tree supplies the
fat that the system needs The olive
tree is meat. butter and lard to an enOr-
nous percentage of ltalys population
1t is also condment, a fruit and flaw
oring. In fact "A book could be written
on the uses OF the olive alone. In
Italy 100000 acres are devoted to
olives. only a small proportion Of the
crop is picked green or ripe, while it
is estimated that 1,250,00O tons are gath
cred for producing oil, OF which the
average annual total production Is So
900 900 gallons. The oil sells at the
mill at 81 cents a quart for first quality,
Is cents for second and Is cents for
third.
nuts are found About two dozen Of
the large size can be bought for penny.
In many ways are they prepared,
Peeled and boiled in a reddish broth
they are often served with large laurel
leaves and caraway seeds. Mashed,
they are used to vary tho filings of
the popular fritos. And they are baked,
and served in all manner of ways either
| 4
with other foods The castagnaccl and
pattona OF Pisa are buildings made of
chestnut -four and olive oil, favored
with fruit. The best chcstnuts and wal
nuts come from Civcnna.
Bananas are a staple. They are eaten
raw either alone or cut in slices and
with wine and orange juice or some
times with sugar and cream. When
cooked either green or ripe they are
fried with olive OIL baked with the
skins on. or made into buildings and
pies. They are cut into strips and dried
or pounded into paste. in any form
the banana is exceedingly nutritious.
Scarcely less important are the figs
, of which Italy produces an enormous
quantity. In every Italian store you
can find them strung on strings.
Dates. oranges, prunes, Citrons, lem
Ons and mulberries are some of the
other important tree foods. In Calabra
the shores are lined with groves Of
orange and Citron trees. Gardens are
filled with date palms and fields are
divided by hedges of aloes and pome-
granates, The mulberry abound,
throughout the basin Of the 20 In
Bevedcre the citron growers have or.
ganized for the purpose of preserving
their own citrons in brine and holding
them for favorable markets. A thou.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03
Less Expense Than Any Other Nation in
Europe-The Economical Housewife.

sand tons of Citron are cand.ed every
year at Leghorn. In Sicily alone 7,OOO,-
100000 lemons are produced every year
Delicious peaches and nectarines abound
in many parts Of the Kingdom.
Not all Italians are accustomed 20
stlnted fare. Theirs Is a land OF feast
ing and fasting. Nowhere else do the
poor subsist on so little nor the wealthy
dine more sumptuously. Yet Italy's
foods are not exactly in accord with
the American standard. Not always are
they as cieany as our ideals would de-
sire, aud some of the preparations seem
very strange to us.
There is the savory sausage. salami
for instance, which is said to he made
Of donkey meat; the nova di buffalo
cheese balls made from buffalo milk.
and the caciCCavallo, mares milk cheese
which nowadays is produced from cows
milk. but still looks queer and tastes
queer. \ dellcacy in Venice is Gala
mai, small devil fish which to the Amerl-
can have the appearance and flavor Of
strips of leather. Gardens are white
thistles served with hot sauce.
Many Americans have taken the VOW
'N-'liiNA NAV hl'llls SldEltlll ana OlneT
Italian pastes after once seeing how
they We're made. But to those who have
not seen or read about these things no
pastes can equal the Italian. In all
shapes and forms are they made-rib-
bons and splrals, letters, diamonds,
stars, and there are many grades of the
palmer pipe macarOni. Some OF the
thin pastes are stamped into rounds and
intr - ,
between them. The superior favor and
wholesomeness OF the Italian pastes is
due mainly to the eXcellency of the
mlCaroni wheat and the Italian meth
! DDS of milling which retain all the n,itri-
ment Of the wheat If il would be Dos
sble to combine American cleanliness
/ with Italian regard for nutriment. the
result would be the finest macaronI
| known.
Then the Italian method of cooking
! has much to do with its better flavor
! Spaghetti should not be cooked longer
/ than hfteen or twenty minues, accord.
ing to the size. know an American
woman who cooks it an hour and a half
/ Conserve, n tomato paste. 10 very gen,
orally used IN the preparation al
/. spaghetti parmcsan cheese is usual,
, Sprinkled over the macaroni anC
spaghetti and is served with SINAI
quantity Of gravy, In America tn,
terms "maCaronI" and "spaghettl" ar,
determined by the size of the product
in Italy they are used according to tn,
| location. In Naples the paste asciute'
/ is called "macheroni," in Rome it /,
spaghetti" and in Genoa "trlnetti."
The typical Italian meal always ho
gins with salaml, After the salam
there is a salad Of red and green pep
pers, large capers, tiny Sicllian olives
| ripe and purple in hue, and the inevl
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-03

of rose water; pound TO a smooth paste,
then beat in brislSly two tablespoonfuls
of sherry and the yolks of two eggs,
Line a tart tin with short paste, spread
il with "A finnish layer of raspberry
jam. pour in the chestnut Custard, and
bake in a moderate oven until nicely
set. When the tart Is cold, mask its
surface with few spoonfuls OF whipped
cream and you will have a most delight
full sweet"
Chestnut Darioles n IItalenne
and skin two dozen Chestnuts, and cook
them in milk until they are tender; the
Chestnuts must then he rubbed through
sieve and the flour" PUT into "A sauce
pan with four ounces powdered sugar,
quarter of "A pint of milk, a quarter
OF pint of cream aud one and one
half ounces Of butter; stir over the fire
Tor five or six minutes, then allow the
mixture 10 cool, when the yolks of four
eggs, with their we'll Whisked whites,
must be blended with II, also a fiavOrins
/ Of white noyau, or any other llqueur
preferred. Have ready your dariole
mouds. well buttcred and sprinkled
with finely chopped angelica, three parts
! I'll each with the above preparation,
cover them with circles of buttered
/ paper, and steam until set. Serve with
cream sauce, delcatcly Favored with the
same llqueur used for The darioles,
/ Chestnuts for Dessert Take chest
nuts of an equal size, peel ana skin
! them, and simmer them in milk un;il
. they are soft without being broken
when they must be drained and allowed
! 20 become cold. rour haf a pint OF
boiling water to one-half pound Of loaf
sugar, add the strained Juice OF a Demon
and boil rapidly until the thread
stage is reached, then put in the chest