Evening star., 1915-06-13
>ong Sleeves and Frills on the Seasons Bl0uses

that we cannot. The little French
women who patiently run the seams
| and tucks by hand are badly enough
paid at all times Their fate this
year. when even this scanty source of
supply is cut off, is dreadful to con-
product is improving. however. and
will improve even more rapidly now
that we have learned to demand it,,
The most noticeable innovation this
year is the addition of frills OF
course, it is not an innovation really.
but a revival. The jabot blouse had
its last incarnation about six years
ago or So We were wearing very
high collars with bones all round
them then. Instruments of torture
that they were. Some women used to
carry pads of cotton wool in their
purses, ready to tuck a bit under tips
Of supports which were digging holes
in their necks When the no collar edict
thankful. Frills then left US for
while, and the forerunner of the
present two-in-one collar. a turnover
affair leaving a pointed opening in
front, was in vogue. Last year the
blouse was the waist coat model of
flaring collar points. The effect was
very smart and a good quality was
sold at 25 francs in Paris and s25 in
New York. This year f1uffiness reigns
n,
the ingenuity of the two-in-one collar
makes a compromise between fashion
and comfort in a plain blouse. Frllls,
however invading all our garments.
even our shoes and gloves, form veri-
table cascades down the front Of our
blouses.
After several all-white seasons col
ored linens appear again this year and
colored organdies-of transparency!
We have to be as careful how we
dress under them as we used in the
days of the ''peek-a-boo" waist, as
vulgar as its name. AS soon as the
country houses are occupied and the
country season is in full swing we shall
know whether the colored fabrics have
been extensively adopted not. In
town. where the blouse is not worn
in the street without jacket, it is
impossible to tell which is preferred.
Very good shops, however, show ex-
pensive models, both imported and
domestic in the pale shades. partc-
ularly lavender and pink. The hair
line Of color on a white ground seems
some rather large, are also shown. The
color note on a white foundation is
also introduced in the popular revival
OF shocking.
Exquisite workmanship characterizes
many examples. Fine hand hemstich-
ing, insets Of thread and fiilet lace. pin
tucks in groups. French embroidery,
lace motifs and drawn work are all
employed. In some cases single lines
of fine white beads are used as orna-
mentation. A lovely model of sheerest
handkerchief linen was embellished
with a pattern of squares done in white
china beads. Much white chiffon, voile
and Georgette crepe is employed for
nf rAAo y nj 1aot Tod fri11
the services OF a f1rst-class laundress.
In default of expert laundry work we
shall have to send them to an eXpen-
sive cleaner every time they are soiled.
The Frenchwoman has the advantage
of u.s. with her blanchiseuse de fin on
every street and the cheap cleaning
facilities Of France. Good shops are
still showing what may be called
ing that there is still a demand for
such a thing. A white satin and chif-
fon one was planned TO wear for a
country club luncheon with the white
serge suit. The high collar and strip
down the front was Of the satin, but
toned with two rows of small round
satin buttons. Two straps or bretelles
of satin went over the shoulders to the
waist. where they met and blended in
girdle which tied behind in sash ends.
The body of the blouse was of chiffon
The sleeves reversed the usual order.
They were of satin and had chiffon
GUNS and were set IN with a cord of the
satin.
Other pretty models revive the fash
ion Of running broad. pale pink satin
ribbon under a mass of lace and chif-
fon. Often the chiffon is lightly pleat-
ed. Dark transparent fabrics are
placed over printed voiles. giving a new
effect, which is rather warm looking
and suggests early fall A navy blue
chiffon was placed over white voile
with huge polka dots of light blue
printed on it and its collar and cuffs
were piped with light blue satin to
match the dots.
Although the blouse no longer holds
the honored place of yore in women's
eyes. and there are no more decollete
ones for dignihed evening wear, still
there are few of us who do not include
them in our wardrobe. We have real
lied that a good servant makes bad
master in this respect, but, in their
place. they are too useful to abandon.
No one who INDUCES in sport can af-
ford to do so. Here washable silk still