davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1915-10-25
FARRAR DENOUNCES
THEBRITISH CENSOR
Denies She Derided Americans,
Saying Her Letter to Ger
many Was Garbled.
PRAYS FOR KAISER TO WIN

CHICAGO. oct. .4.--Geraldine Farrar
denied Tonight In emphatic terms that
she had ever derited the American
peopIe I'm le..ars IN sr,erds a, cer,na,v
r., -, -. a..
" ''''" '"'u 'hit she "ou'u feiuse "
amuse or oblige them.
The diya's outburst u1ns called forth
hv . ,o,,,,, -. .,, .,,t.,,
'o'
quoteu letter puplisfrd IN German
papers. supposed to be from Miss Far
rar's pcn 20 Mime. Iall, Lehman OF
u.u,,,, 49,, q, 49,. -. ,r. 80.
"' o', ''''' 'u'o'' A"o ''''''
az quoted read
am much Too loyal 70 GERMANY 10
anuse tne american people OF TO opige
n tnat Iunny ENTypouy
~ "o"s ",e unoersu'r9e now sra'e
na,,,,,a w uo' 'n"ny anu ,no ,',,s,. ei's,'
~, ,,o, - , . ,,,
IN ,ha m,,,si., ,''',,s e'e ""' "'''
"Snr. us ~ Gar <,S,. m,
nossibiv for n ,,o,nan, ho,ia,. an, n,
| tho Accusation. u.h,cb bavn hoo,, h-n,,yh,
| against mo In such N ba..fui manner
and which ara nothlnr hIt untruths and
| distortions am n tncnber .of Tho
Royal Prussian Opera and will 20 there
| to sing when the right time comes.
| Proud Of Tier Rank In Germany.
NO POISONOUS tongue shall hinder me
az n Prussian Chamber singer and think
| too highly OF IL To show disrespect for
! the country To which I owe 40 inexpress-
| IDLY much / am C;ermanophile through
and through. although that is not very
popular here at present"
In her denial the singer said
ut Is one OF the notorious distortions
OF the British censor. as 1t IL a hope
| lessly stupid translation of my letter
Except for that one cruel sentence
the letter is quoted practically correct
! l never said ! would not amuse or obligc
, Americans.
| Am / an IDIOT Am | a fool
| "What | did say was that love G..'-
many, am pro-,;erman in my sympi-
thies, and that j will not curry fdvo.
with Americans or any one else at tn,
I expense OF that loyal love 10 the country
and people who had been SO kind and
helpful 10 me in my career,
Those letters-there were half .
dozen of them. all virtually the same
were to persons In private life In Ger.
4, many and We're In answer to rcprod hfu
letters from them which asked whcthcI
| had made derogatory statements
against Germany such as had been given
publication
trays Tor Herman success
"Of course I wished 10 make , nl,
denial And here dn relffirm rpN
LOYALTY 70 Germany and my ,;,r,ul,
friends and nr,v for ,he success ,t
their arms. as much as hate var.
The sun., 1915-10-25
An Answer 10 the Antix.

Mrs. Howard Mansfield. president o..
the Equal Franchise Society, said that
what most impressed her about the
parade was that II proved beyond n
ooub, that women desire the right 10
vote
I'ry proved IL by their digni-
fc' devoted procession in such un-
heard p' numbers" said Mrs. Mansfield.
The autis will say that the parade
'"'s''' prove anything. But 1t did prove
"at u.uly clad women were willing TO
''aad for many hours In the cold for
'y rupose OF displaying their convic-
.OhF
Thee" and other suffrage leaders re-
TN" =" believe that the Republican and
Democratic organizations have quietly
ls-,d ia, word through the ranks t.,at
N" amendment must he killed Mrs,
&.' said that she had heard the story
any t!n". and had taken the trouble
10 run down every rumor. hut that the
NorE proved "a be nothing more than a
"ild rumOr, She said that the suflra-
ss'- had the promise of the organiza-
non leaders of each party that there
would be no trickery. that no instruc-
Mons would be issued and that organi-
hadon voters were free TO vote as they
pleased
The sun., 1915-10-25

that in all that time he has never said
an unkim word to me. lLaughter.l ]
In fact. he never has addressed any
word TO me- Laughter We meet OH
the street an1 everything Immediately
is az tranquil as the zoo.
but last Christmas Mr. Brady. l will
say for him, sent me a fine quart bottle
accompanied with the following sincere
expression OF sentiment. Drink hearty
! had the stun examined first. Laugh
teri IL was priisssic acid. Laughter
EARLY in life Mr.. Brady was a news
boy in California. He sold old alnianlcs
and crushed paper bags to old men AMI
told them they were newspapers. II is
recorded that one day young Brady sold
Peruna circular 10 a near sighted man
and said 1t WAS copy OF the New York
ErcntnD Telegram. l.aughterI HIS
tory records further that the man read
the circular and said that IT was the
most interesting copy Of the Telegram he
ever had read. Laughter
From she'll Game 10 stage.
Then he sold peanuts on train.
From the shell game to the stage is
only step Ilaughtcr1 so Mr. Brady
became property man tor Joseph Girls
mer. To-day Joe Grismcr Is the prop
erty man. li.aughter. Joe owns most
of The property on Long Island and all
of Bill Brady.
"Braiys great ambition is to be an
actor. tl.aught"r Early in his stage
career he starred himself In drama
which required a live lion in the cast
But the tour fell through--,he Hon quit
because Bi'l Brady bit It. Laughter.
So Bill started in to manage prize
fighters. and IN time he managed the
three greatest fighters OF their time
Jim Corbc,t. Jim Jeffries and Wlltor
l.ackayc. lLaughter.l
His GrcItcp achievement was when
he married that charming actress Mics
Grace George. Applause for the
speaker aud for Miss George. who was
listening from balcony box.l | shall
not go into that. however; that's hcl
funeral. Laughter lie plays Wal
Street and makes fortunes in n day
I'm told. Sometimes he keeps the for.
tune almost all day Laughter
Mr.. Brady .lso plays poker IN the
Green Room Cub st times. The rest
of the mcmh.r- look on those days OF
poker playing with Bll as benefit dave
tLaught.r1 Iu conclusion. | wish
merely to add that Mr. Brady is a
brilliant producer ard excellent nus
band and the rott.uest actor In th'
world" tfaugttcr and applause.
Mr.. Brady got up to Say that 1t was
no easy task to answer one whom IN
called "th. Friars' favorlte humoris,.
and whom old lrv Cobb in "a latoi
speech called ~the Friars favorite hu'
morist--aud his own
The sun., 1915-10-25

"Thr parade yesterday ought 20 settle
for AL 'ime the question as to whether
or hot women want to VOTE said Mrs
'Ji; 'Eg as It was. the parade would
have been nigger IL thousands of " lmen,
I.i mon too. could have found "A place
the line. Hut they couldn't get "A
place. Thousands waited for nearly five
hours in bitterly c5ld wind and finally
gave up and Went home.
"it NaS notable thing that the work
% organizing the demonstration didn't
interfere in the least with the regular
ttmpaign work. II was a spontaneous
demonstration handled by one commit
tee. and meanwhile the regular workers
were busy with ordinary duties. We
ae rs proud and as happy as We can
he and We are sure We are going to win
on November g.
Mrs. Norman de r. Whltehousc. who
spent yesterday afternoon with Mr.. and
Mrs. ogden Mills Reid al their country
place In Westchester. said that she was
tremendously impressed by the devotion
showH by so many women.
II have not yet received the figures
OF The official count OF the parade" said
Mrs Whitehouse. but ] believe that
more than $4,000 were In the parade
and know that probably 10000 women
we're Obliged to 20 home without the
chance OF marching. They came TO lower
Fifth avenue dressed in white. thin gar
neuiS and they were not able TO walt
for place In line because the wind
Was % cold and biting.
who can say now that women do
not rally want to vote? In that parade
We're women from every class OF So
,,e'y Moreover, the bystanders were
sympathetic. They came TO applaud, not
10 sheer. ! tell you our cause IL march
ing ahead fast. l believe We will win
handily on November 2.
This week will be devoted to hard
campaign work. mostly street speaking
hlt on saturday next We are going 10
have several big street demonstrations.
extra specia. speechmaking and band
concerts and things. The details will be-
gwen ont later in the week For the
present We are proud Of what has been
accomplished"
The sun., 1915-10-25

The Munson steamship Company has
placed a contract FOR another small
freight boat. requiring about 5000 tons
OF steel plates. with the Newport News
Shipbuilding and Dry Dock Company.
The plates will be furnished by an
eastern Pennsylvania mill.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
A ChiId's Shampoo.

TT HE quality of the shampoo will de-
Il pend on the condition of the hair.
Scalps given to an excessive flow of
oil are much improved by a teaspoon
full of borax or ammonia put in the
water. but for the dry head. the one
that shows harsh, bristling or perhaps
faded hair raw eggs, an oily soap and
a preliminary rub Of the scalp with
olive oil or vaseline are needed. Quillai
bark, the least bit of which makes a
fine lather, is also excellent to restore
the hair to glossiness. softness and
health, and 10 cents worth of this will
do for an indefinite number of sham
poos.
The shampoo over, there should be
relays of heated towels to dry the
small head as Quickly as possible, for
this promotes not only good temper
in the child, but aids in the matter of
pretty hair by freeing it quickly from
the water. When the locks are thor
oughly dry a tonic lotion or dressing
may be used with benefit by massag-
ing it into the scalp, and for those who
cannot afford the prepared article let
me advise for this a few drops Of olive
oil mixed with teaspoonfu1 of bay
rum alcohol or some dainty toilet
water. This last ceremony gets the
dry, hy-away hair glossy and shipshape
again, and the spirits and friction keep
off the possibility OF. the child taking
cold
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
1thoritative Summary of the Fashions for Autumn

are strong or weak. (What a pity
some of the men can't wear them)
In the evening we may appear as
much like a shepherdess as our physi-
cal equipment allows or as our in
clinations permit: there is nothing in
fashion that keeps US from any frivol-
ity in that line. Brilliant shades are
not advocated. These do not suit the
punched drapery and the rose wreaths
better, such as orangeade (the new
| tone of Yellow, maize, blue, pink and
iris.
There is all the opportunity one de-
| sires to use ribbons. One fears for the
general result. The temptation offered
| to follow all those coquettish ideas ad-
vanced by Jenny, on the Champs Ely
sees. may be too great for the I'M
skilled worker to resist; hundreds of
| women may look like animated May
| poles by November. She decorates her
evening gowns, this successful French
| designer. with streamers of colored
! ribbons to each of which is attached a
rose.
| Imagine such a fashion permeating
| the country, and. yet, it is such Il
| fashion that has the special faculty to
permeate.
| Again is brought out the fight for
the .one-piece frock to GUST the coat
| and skirt, with the result that both
styles of costume are sure to be popu-
| lar. Each woman will. proba bly,, want
one of each. Suits do not have self
colored blouses to go with them. Evil
IDENTIFY, this fashion belongs to a day
that is done. The one-piece frock has
brought about that result. White
wash blouses or string colored ones
are advised, made as plainly as in the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
zYOKEs, STOCKS AND GUIMPEs

with the hem. BY this method the back
and sides are held firmly in place and the
whole front is released, permitting a
free motion of the neck. Collar bones
should be very narrow, delicate and as
inconspicuous as possible. They should
be accurately measured. as extra long
bones do not add to the height of a COL
lar, but instead produce a Jagged. I'M
even edge.
AS the woman of good taste realizes
the softening effects to be had from
transparent, creamy lace separating
the dark material of gown from too
intimate a contact with her face. white
or very pale shades are almost always
used. When making a guimpe, the
first essential is a good-fitting pattern.
or if you have plain foundation pat
tern, which is your guide in making
waists, you can use that. 1t is not
necessary for guimpe to be fitted
around the waist line. 1t is far better
to have it just deep enough to catch
well under the fullness of the bust and
extend to about two inches above the
waist line The lower edge may then
be run with a wide elastic and hooked
in the back. Added to this silk tape
should be attached at each side in the
back, crossed and tied around the waist
in front
A guimpe of net or other flimsy ma
teriaI must fit as if nodded on the fig
ure. and the only way to do this is by
10 wing the center front on th.s bias of
the pattern Cut the back in the same
way. handling the center back careful
" SO as not to stretch it in the slight
est,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03

days when the mannish garment was
first exploited.
-. g!
A costume for an occasion Will b6
of velvet or silk. In two. parts: the
frock complete, with or without belt.
the coat long and usually suitable to
wear over gowns. So luxurious ara
the ma jority of separate coats that tho
economical woman may buy one to
serve for day and night. Velvet. furre
trimmed, is sufficiently dressy for any
occasion %
Cloth and velvet redingotes are TO be
used to cover a thin frock Of chiffon
wolfe, of silk serge, of faille silk for
street wear. Cotton velvet is advanced
for everyday plain suits. but there is
danger in following this advice. The
average woman with a moderate in
come had far better be advised to buy.
a suit of reliable cloth or worsted.
England and America produce admir-
able weaves.
The low-crowned hat is no longer in
first fashion. The millners decided to
gether that no money would be FORTH
coming If only variations on the pres
vailing shape were devised for the in
coming season. So they launched high
crowned hats. The old ones won't do.
of that there is no doubt. .-
The biretta of Henry ". the Cos
sacks fur turban, the position of 1900,
the Eton schoolboy's top hat of silk
beaver, the high sailor of panne plush.
the Puritan hat with its silver buckle
these are features of millinery. ~
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
Practical Suggestions.

ITO double the length Of wear of mems
shirts. sew a small piece of muslin
inside the shirt to the collar band and
shoulder seam, leaving the front loose so
that it will not interfere with laundering.
This protects mems neglige shirts from
the wear of stiff collars against the collar
bone.
After the neck band and cuffs finally
wear out the garment Is usually still
good. In this case the worn parts may
be trimmed off and the remainder made
into a kimono with rounded neck and
elbow sleeves, or a straight little apron
for d child. with straps across the Shout
ders, or puff sleeves may be fashioned
from it, A tunic apron may be made from
II by using the back of the shirt for the
front breadth and making the two side
cores from the two halves OF the front.
The sleeves will furnish the strings.
Very serviceable dresses for little girls
from one to three years may be made
from mems cast-off print and cotton shirts
The front Of the shirt ID used for the
back Of the little dress. thus saving the
trouble of making buttonholes. The back
breadth Of the shirt is used for the front
Of the dress. using one large plat over
each shoulder, or several little tucks
These serve TO strengthen as well as trim
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
Cinnamon Toast.

THIS makes a delicious luncheon 'cl1es des-
of chocolate and whipped cream or marsh
maIlows. For the bread dissolve one-half
a yeast cake in one cup Of scalded milk,
cooled until lukewarm. add one-half a cup
of hot mashed potatoes and one and one
fourth cups of flour. Cover and let rise
until light Then add one egg slightly
beaten, one-third cup Of shortening (but-
ter and lard in equal proportions). one
third cup of sugar and enough flour to
knead Shape into a loaf. put in a but
tered cake pan, cover. let rise and bake
in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes.
Let stand twenty-four hours, cut in small
slices, remove the crusts, toast and spread
with softened butter and sprinkle with
cinnamon and sugar.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
How to Do Shocking.

@INCE shocking is so much used at,
present, few words as to how to-
do the work will not be out of place
it is not as difficult to learn as is gen.
orally supposed. a little patience and a
certain aptitude for needlework being
all that is necessary. 1t is possible to
make very unusual and pretty dresses
without any knowledge of cutting and
fitting when fullness is required
Cross barred dimity is the best to be-
Sih on: as the lines are great help in
preparing the work for shocking.
There should be about three spaces 10
an inch. The part to be shocked must
hrSt be gathered into tucks of even size
with black thread. After some prac-
tce these spaces can be measured WITH
the eye, but at first the cross-barred
or dotted material is a great help and,
time saver. After gathering with
strong black thread as many rows half
an inch apart as will cover the space
that is to Ice shocked. the garment is
ready for the actual shocking ..
Mercerized floss in medium weight in
double thread is the best cotton to use.
The twisted cotton single is also eff
fective for coarse work This floss
holds its color and comes in attractive
shades. The stitches are made very:
much like the featherstitch and have
the same number OF variations. The.
sewer, whereas shocking is worked
away from the sewer. Every time A.
new stitch is taken one picks up q
tuck previously made by the black :
hastings. After some practice il will
be easy To pick up just the right
amount of material from each tuck. but
everything depends upon the evenness
OF the spacing in the beginning The.
different stitches are made by chang.
ing the thread from one side of the =
needle to the other. just as in feathers
stitching. The combinat ton of stitches,
with themselves and with each other
are SO endless that no two garments,
of colors and materials makes this,
work very fascinating. The simplest,
stitch is like the ordinary outline the
thread never changing from the side Of.
the needle and going straight ahead,
picking up new tuck with each.
stitch. This stitch is best used where
the work is to be held closely togethen,.
especially at the neck. -
1t is possible to buy patterns for
shocked dresses for adults and chill ,
dren. 1t should also be noted thar
shocking Will take two and half
times as much material as will appear.
when the work is done-that is, in orr
der to obtain half yard of smoked J.
material yard and "A quarter must be .
up into a smaller space or stretched y
to larger one, but that is the average. "a
The materials used for a grown per-
sons dress must be soft, for the full
ness around the waist will not looh
we'll in sitter materials. Dimity, dot
ted Swiss or soft yelling and silks.-
and even chiffon, are best adapted fon.
this kind of garment The advantages:
of shocked dresses for children's wear
are numerous. The fullness will leave
room for growth, and the dresses may
be worn for long time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03

chosen over any other kind of raiment,
and economy is practiced in every 9TH
er department of dress and the house.
hold in order to buy peltry.
Back to. coats: They have seams
again, their collars hide the chin and
threaten the mouth; the sleeves are
long, small and put into regulation
armholes. Cuffs are important, usually
f1aring up or down and the mousQue-
taire cuff is rumOred along with the
hat that d'Artagnan wore.
Brass buttons, fiat and round, have
been returned because of the use of the
other styles that marked the end of
the eighteenth century in France.
In coats which are parts of suits. or
separate garments to be worn over one
piece frocks of lighter weight, many
colors are employed. but black is con-
spicuously absent except for the sump-
tuous overcoat of velvet with brown
fur. Plum color is revived, blue is
popular. brown is lightly taken up,
Lincoln green Is a favorite.
The furs used on them are kolin-
sky, skunk, opossum dyed brown, seal
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03

lures employed on the new frocks A
bit of brfght-fgured ribbon is often
used as a vest to give a touch of color
to dark serge frock. Silver and gold
ribbons are good deal used on even
ing frocks. And yards and yards of
ribbon in all colors and styles are used
for founces and ruffies and ruches.
Beaded flowers continue to be used
on the hat models shown by the mil
liners and worn by smart women. Steel
beads are used. and so are eotored
beads.
Buckles are used on many hats.
Sometimes they are used to fasten
wings. and sometimes big buckles form
the sole trimming. save perhaps a band
Of ribbon or folded silk. ION small hats.
! Hats with narrow. tall crowns and
narrow. curling brims. suggestive Of
\ mems hats of the empire period. are
among the smartest walking hats OF
the autumn.
! Pockets form a striking feature on
| many of the new frocks. They are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03

TMBROIDERED net is in vogue for
lS evening frocks. White or colored
~ net embroidered with gold and
silver is especially striking in artificial
light.
The jumper style Of bodice is still
employed effectively. On evening frocks
silk bodice built on jumper lines.
with deep armholes. will disclose tiny
sleeves of pet or chiffon.
BY the Innings of the new evening
cloaks is their gorgeousness shown.
All sorts of brilliant Innings in silk
are used to give a truly luxurious nm
fsh TO the rich folds OF fur-trimmed
velvet. satin and silk.
Yokes are again in fashion. Some of
the most interesting frocks, coats and
biouses show deep yoke both front
and back. Sometimes the yoke extends
cap-wise over the shoulders. and some
times there is a straight yoke across
the front. which. extending. forms the
back OF the bodice.
Bandeaus are used to tilt some of the
hats forward or up at the side. And on
sorne of the velvet hats these bandeaus
consist of little lift or roll Of fur.
stitching on heavy cloth suits is used
GccOratively. Bands of stitched cloth
IRE used for trimming around the bot
tom of skirts and coats, and for belts
end collars and cuffs.
Fur is used on so many of the new
srocRs that one almost wonders where
y all comes from. 1t is used. as il was
last year. very effectively to edge lace
founces and overskiTts, and perhaps 1t
in combination with sheer fabric
that it IS at its best
Tuile sees 20 tll a long-felt want in
the world of women's clothes. II is
widely used this autumn for evening
fro"ks. and is more attractively used
than ever before.
The shoulder cape idea is revived &C.
cas!onally In this autumns models
Usually. however. II is a part Of the
frock with which IL is worn. plain
tafeta shoulder cape. for instance. Will
be a part of lowered tafTeta frock.
Buckles at the belt again bring mem
cries of many seasons ago. When they
are properly chosen, with due regard
70 all details of the frock Of which
they form an adornment. they are. in
deed. attractive. But they should al
ways be chosen in this way. not fol
their intrinsic beauty.
Ribbons are one OF the trimming fea'
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-03
To Mend Glassware.

WsAKE five parts of gelatin to one of
u solution of acid chromate of lime.
Cover the broken edges with this and
press together. Then place in the direct
sunlight The mended article will not
come apart even il washed in hot water.
nor will the break show. If your cut
glass gets nicked on the edges take a
sheet of emery cloth, fasten it rough side
up upon a perfectly fiat surface and rub
the tumbler or other article with rotary
motion against it until the hicks are
ground out. leaving the glassware as good
as new.