The star-independent. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1904-1917, 1915-03-26

Speaking OF faille silk reminds me of
an unusual model which was shown in
one of the shops of oyster white faille.
1t was very full, back and front and the
entire thing was edged with n wide
band of black velvet.
OF no less Importance is the suit.
The materials used are covert, serge,
gabardine. voile gabardine which is a
lightweight fabric of the gabardine
type, khaki or field cloth, grosgrain
cloth, covert cord, tweed. or homespun
The suits this season show a return
to-the strictly tailored type OF course,
the military style is highly popular.
This is so named more because of the
placing of corded trimming and buttons
than in the general cut, although there
are some that have a very pronounced
military cut. and With pockets and belts
in the place accorded them by the
makers of British and French uniforms.
1t is really strange how thoroughly
mixed are these military tendencies, it
taxes the fair-mindcd woman to her ut
most to be thoroughly neutral in her
dress, it can be done, however. for a
Uhlan hat may be worn with dress
cut on strictly English field uniform
lines.
The jackets vary in length, some are
moderately long in the back and eut
short in the front from the underarm
seam. Others are cut short all the way
around. The bolero with or without
sleeves is worn especially in the silk
suits.
In the second illustration is suit
with an Eton jacket with Vneck and
buttons down the front. With this is
worn full skirt which is stitched sew
eral times around the lower edge, This
is the type of suit that would make an
excellent travelling suit for the woman
who is going to the Pan-American or
upon any other journey.
The separate waists, which, of course,
are in great demand with the popular
ity of the suits, are shown in a large
variety this year. The plain styles
trimmed only with buttons and fasten-
ing down the front are considered the
most correct, but they are slowly be-
coming a little more elaborate with a
few tucks and little shirring. These
are made of voile, chiffon, and crepe
de Chine while the ones shown for sum-
mer are developed in handkerchief lin
en-, VOile, Swiss and organdy. Very
plain covered buttons are used on these
waists and some of the very latest have
small ivory buttons shaped like quinine
capsules down the front. Most of the
waists are made with long, close sleeves
and adjustable collars; that is, collars
which are closed high around the neck
or may be left open as desired.
Dresses are being finished around the
bottom of the skirts in many various
ways. a dress of net has a deep hem
of white taffeta figured in pink, which
was cut in deep scallops at the top edge
A close-fitting bodice of the silk was
covered with flowing bolero of net
which was boInd around the edges with
the figused silk cut on the bias.
Other skirts of net or chiffon have
hens eighteen inches deep of taffeta or
satin and many organdy dresses shown
have deep hens of colored silk. Nets
also have deep hens of colored organdy
The sealloped lower edges are par
tieularly pretty and can be used with
good effect on the bottom of sheer
summer dresses, if you are beginning to
think of making these. Points are also
used as well as squares. When very
sheer material is used, narrow ruffie
OF the same material may be used to
run around the edges. In others, of