davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1915-08-15
INDIVIDUALITY AND
THE GROWING CHILD

sort OF child he or she is going to be-.
and. with such a preconceived notion,
they proceed to lay plans, never for q
moment considering that these plans
do not fit in with the real individuality
Of the child.
One of our present United States SEN
ators. who has a family of many pretty
daughters. is said to have had some
such plans for each OF his children. One
of his daughters was to be musical. one
was to be the social butterfy-for no
family. thought the senator, is COM
plete without one frivolous member-
one daughter he would send to college,
and one would be the home-loving
would always be waiting for him to
come home at night, and would never
be induced to leave him. and still an
other daughter was to be artistic. This
was an ideal arrangement that would
insure the household from the monot-
ony that might have resulted in the
presence of SO many daughters OF the
same type.
when the daughter who, just because
| she had shown in early infancy re-
, markably high forehead, had been pick
| ed for college career declared that
| anything else to devote herself to SO
ciety. About this time the daughter
who had been brought up with the idea
| that she was to be musical finally con-
SliCSu ueT IdtHeT ana InOIuoT tndt III
spite of the efforts of numerous mas
ters she really couldn't recognize a
tune. much less play one. So on down
the line. Not one of the senator's pref
| ty daughters fitted the role that she
was expected to play. Fortunately. by
an exchange Of vocations each daugh-
ter finally took her place in the niche
that suited her best and the senator
! You. no doubt. know mothers who
superpose their own personality on
| their favorite child.
Peggy is just like me-a bunch Of
Evening star., 1915-08-15

a feature of the beaches that caused
gasps from even those who were sup
| posed to be proof against surprise
from the audacity that has ruled dress
recently.
When one knows that Paris has de-
creed a skirt that retains its fullness,
but increases its length. there is a feel
ing of panic. Are we to be burdened
again with those hideous skirts Of
other days that hampered our move
ments and ruined any prospect OF
grace? The only redemption to a
short skirt is in it's fullness. and the
only redemption to full skirt Is in
it's shortness. Are we to have this
axiom Of grace turned topsy.turvy as
| 1t was when we thought the world
knew no better?
OF course, we can stand the present
exaggerated skirt heightened by few
inches and not feel that any sacrifice of
beauty is made, but this preliminary
lengthening of the hem suggests more
striking experiments in the near future
in the name of novelty. or rather. a
| change for the late autumn fashions; !;
so If. to full long skirt we add long
full redingote. and high, brimless hat,
| what, oh, what shall we do?
There will be no balm in Gifead Tor
any kind of woman but the type that
adores to look like poster done by
Georges Lepape. Well. there Is no use
mourning SO early in the season. AL
ways there has been found a way out
of a startling dilemma in fashions by
those who must have the public back
| Of them and by public that will not
be coerced into something definitely
dowdy.
After years Of dashing, II provoca-
tive, styles, one would hate to lapse
| into anything dowdy. and such is the
! adjective one may use for the threat
ened combination. Nothing would be
Evening star., 1915-08-15

I that he gave his name to q reclining
chair. The very phrase nottingham
curtains'' would discourage him in the
same way as it pains Poiret to see a
woman wearing a string OF pearls with
tailored suit, as so many hundreds of
American women, unfortunately, have
a habit of doing.
It is pleasanter to look on the opti-
mistic side Of fashions. however, than
upon the gloomy side, and there is no
reason to borrow trouble for the NOR
row when the world seems to have it's
share right now.
Many good and acceptable things are
heralded and there are scores Of them
already incorporated in the fashions Of
the hour. To begin with. there 10 no
perceptible movement now to compel
the hem of the skirt to stand out about
the ankles as though it were crinolined.
There is still. in most fashionable
places. a movement to broaden the cir
Gle about the hips by means Of the in
PRODUCTION Of haircloth so that the ma
terial will swing away from the figure.
When well done, this fashion is not
alarming. It has many points Of merit.
1t accentuates the narrowness at the
Evening star., 1915-08-15
Special Correspondence Of The Star.

NEW YORK, August IA, 1915.
00 0HEN the weather became hot
NAV in Paris the Frenchwoman
W\V lowered her skirt a few
" " inches because she did not
the adoption of slippers and pumps
with high heels in place OF high shoes.
It is claimed by those who should
know that this length will prevail
with our women when the first of Oc-
tober brings in the boot. But why?
The shorter the skirt, the better. has
been the motto ever since the first
day of April at the very season when
the low shoe came into it's own. 1t is
true that the majority of women rec
ognized the ungracefulness of that OBJ
vious expanse Of ankle between the
shoe rim and the skirt hem. and there
fore adopted the high boot of soft
leather during months that call for the
comfort Of the slipper.
Not all women, however, yielded to
the call Of beauty and abandoned the
low shoe. Many there were who look
ed as though they were wearing bath
ing suits in the streets. Never has
there been so much freedom tolerated
by respectable people in this respect.
Soon after the fashion started the
stares ceased Comment died. Stock
inged legs that showed between the
edges of pump and skirt that
cleared the ground by ten inches or
more became commonplace. One
thought of the sarcasm of the cabman
Of London.
Possibly It was in rivalry with these
streets and dance skirts that the new
est bathing suits became merely a
glistening chemise hung from the
shoulders over apair Of silk trunks.
Evening star., 1915-08-15
FASHIONS FRILLS.
Blue and White Footwear.

Black and white footwear has been
rather overdone in the last few months,
although it is still worn by very smart
women. But blue and white footwear
Is not only newer, but less likely to be
overdone than black and white. There
are some charming blue pumps (navy
blue. of course). touched with pipings
and bands of white kid, and these are
worn with navy blue silk stockings. show
ing white clocking or narrow stripes
of white. This blue footwear is, of
course, worn with navy blue frocks.
Wolfe Hem on Net.
The fashion Of combining two fab
RIGS in one frocks is not new with
the midsummer. but it is still preva-
lent One pretty frock is made Of
white net, with deep hem OF white
voile applied in an irregular top out
line This is the only touch Of wolfe
on the frock. but it gives weight to
the net that adds to its dignity! and
grace.
Evening star., 1915-08-15

kkr7 ORTY miles from a lemon" in
August days spells deprivation
. and discomfort in myriads Of
ways. Not only is the lemon the fruit
par excellence for summer beverages
and cooling desserts, but as garnfsh
pleasing to the eye. germicide MAX
ing innocuous even the deadly typhoid
germ, an adjunct to the cooling bath
and toilet table. cleansing. and beauti-
flying skin. teeth and hair; household
remedy for many Of the minor ills that
nesh 10 heir to, and as household
article, familiar for taking out many
kinds Of spots ana stains, 1t has few
equals and no superiors.
Where one has facilities for storing
fruit. lemons should be purchased by
the box when tho fruit is at its cheap
est ana best. A good way to keep
lemons is to suspend them in nets from
stout hooks In the storeroom, where
the air. can circulate freely around
them. A box OF lemons averages
Evening star., 1915-08-15

ankles. which is always attractive, and
tends to reduce the extraordinary
amount Of fullness, used in any smart
skirt. to a graceful moderation.
No one cares how much fabric is en-
ployed in the makeup of a skirt, pro-
vided it is supple, not heavy, and that
1t is 50 we'll hung 1t clings to the f1g-
ure. In these essentials to grace a cut
ter and filter must be we'll trained, or
the material becomes bulky, unwieldly
and contributes to an awkward appear
ance.
The narrow skirt had equal draw
backs when in the hands Of the un-
skilled. 1t seemed almost impossible
to cut a tight-fitting skirt without
displaying the figure in a most un-
graceful Manner manner that can
never be equaled by a full skirt, as
1t has no such immodest possibilities.
II one attempts to have a winter
suit made of any of the heavy. suit
ings in the new style, then ones ap-
pearance is doomed. Possibly ones
health may also be menaced, for the
carrying Of yards Of fabric swung
from the waist is a mans job; it is
not fit for a woman. For this reason
alone the buyer Of new clothes this
autumn must insist upon soft, cling
Evening star., 1915-08-15

lemon squeezed into a small cup of
strong, black coffee (no sugar. will
often cure or prevent bilious headache.
For Neuralgia Pains.
These may frequently be alleviated
by application Of lemon over the parts
affected, while the discomfort caused
by sore and tender feet may be les
sened if not entirely cured by applying
slices Of lemon.
Colds and Hoarseness.
For these lemons are an old and ap-
proved remedy. For q cold. the lemon
should be baked whole until thorough
ly tender, then eaten hot. with loaf
sugar to sweeten, just before retiring.
mixed with the stifi1y beaten white OF
egg and loaf sugar or honey to sweet
en-, Is most eff1cacious.
Flaxseed Lemonade.
This is an old-fashioned remedy for
colds that cannot be beaten. Pour a
quart of boiling water over cup of
naxseed. add tho juice of two lemons
and loaf sugar to taste. Cover and
steep for several hours, then strain, re-
heat and drink hot just before retiring.
Lemon as an Acid Help In Manicur-
ing.
The best manicure acid Is teaspoon
full Of lemon juice in a cupful Of tepid
water. This not only whitens and re-
moves stains from the nails. but 1t
loosens the cuticle far better than scis-
sors can do.
For Teeth and Mouth Wash.
AS a dentifrice lemon juice in water
removes tartar, sweetens the breath
and removes most stains. It must not
be used too strong.
Hair Wash and Tonic.
Here, too, lemon juice stands facile
princeps. For the wash. cut a large,
juicy lemon in half. Dip the head In a
large bowl Of tepd water while thA
Evening star., 1915-08-15

should be recognized and nurtured by
all parents when 1t shows itself in the
child, even If its manifestation Is in a
form little inconvenient to the moth
er. For instance, If the small son or
daughter comes to the luncheon table
with an unexpected guest-a little play
mate who has been invited to 'stay to
lunch"-don't ask any questions at the
as little Show Of ns surnrfse as possibla
help make the meal pleasant for both
guests and small host or hostess. and
keep all explanation for another time.
After the meal is finished and the
unexpected guest has departed Is time
enough to ask the child questions.
Perhaps the small son or daughter will
have ready a perfectly plausible excuse
the guest may have limited for an in
vitation to luncheon, as small and
hungry visitors sometimes do. At all
events, explanations should be ac-
cepted.
Evening star., 1915-08-15

ing materials. The shops offer them.
fashion indorses them and them only,
and the best effect in the new silhou-
cite is obtained through them.
Cheruit is insisting upon tulle and
chiffon in her new evening frocks, and
no one can find fault with such bill
lowy fabrics, voluminously used. Some
of Doucet's best models are exaggera-
tions of those he introduced in the late
spring, which are made of tulle with
short bolero effects in metal embroid-
cry done on the fabric, and he got an
immensely attractive line to his skirts
by using then. as he does now. a guam
tity of ruchings and pleatings put on
at opposite angles This studied irreg-
ularity gives the skirt an elfln quality,
somewhat of that wind-blown effect
that Pavlowas skirts have when she
dances in Paul and Virginia. and to
the music of Mendelssohn's Spring
Song"
Cheruit is using co1ored tulle, such
as dahlia and Egyptian blue and rose,
with broad sashes of an opposing color.
Doucet is also doing this same effect.
Both of these distinguished creators,
Evening star., 1915-08-15

lemon Is rubbed over the scalp ami
among the roots Of the hair. Soak
and rub the hair thoroughly. then rinse
well in water of the same temperature.
Dry at once with vigorous rubbing and
there will be no danger of taking cold.
No soap is required. The acid Of the
lemon removes dust and grease, leaving
the hair pliable and glossy.
For Utility in General.
If hooks and eyes have rusted any
garment, cover the part with salt,
squeeze lemon Juice over it and stand
in the sun for fifteen or twenty minutes.
If not entirely removed. repeat. Rinse
well in cold water. If there is a
scorch on a white garment. soak in
lukewarm water. then squeeze lemon
juice over 1t, put on a layer of salt and
spread In the sunshine to bleach. Fruit
stains on the fingers can be removed by
lemon juice. Benares brass that seems
hopelessly dingy, can be restored to its
original brightness by rubbing the sur
race OF the tray or bowl with cut
lemon. This goes into all the little in
terstices, which could not be reached
by ordinary methods. Rinse thorough
ly in clear water, scrubbing with q
small brush. then dry, polishing with
soft flannel.
Lamb Curry.
A lamb curry is exceedingly delicate
made of tender spring lamb. To pre-
pare it, cut some of the meat from q
cold cooked leg OF lamb into medium
sized dice. removing all gristle. Fry q
minced onion in a stew pan with lit
tie butter until Drowned, then put in a
cup Of washed and dried rice and stir q
few moments over the fire. Add two
cups of broth and cook the rice over q
slow fire, adding more broth or water
from nfAyenS
ting too dry. When 1t has cooked about
twenty minutes, or until tender, add q
small tablespoonful of curry power.
diluted with a tablespoonful and . half
or three minutes, add the chopped meat,
cover and let stand back on the fire un-
til the meat is well heated through,
then serve on toast moistened with the
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORp.
Evening star., 1915-08-15
Value of Lemons i'm Swmnm@r

about three hundred each. Like win
looked over often enough to prevent
any danger from mold or decay. The
best lemons have a fair, smooth. thin
skin, bright yellow in color and deli
on the market supply and the season
California lemons now rank next to
the finest European fruit and sell for
less than the old Messinas, which rank
highest in the list.
As Medicine.
For toning the system and purifying
the blood-unless for special reason the
acid is forbidden-the lemon is more
effective than any other Of tho natural
foods. For a sluggish liver, which
makes it's possessor utterly miserable
physically and mentally. lemons furnish
the most beneficial Of acids. The juice OF
a piece Of lemon squeezed into glass Of
water should be drunk as often as pos
sible. especially when rising early in
the morning. Malaria, one Of the re-
routed by the italian cure that is
used In the Roman malarial districts.
italian Remedy for Malaria.
Scrub with vigor the skin of a large
juicy lemon. then slice thin, rind and
all. and put into a saucepan porcelain
or enamel. Pour over it three cups
Of cold water and cook until reduced
to one cupful. Strain through coarse
bag OF linen or cotton, SO that pulp
and rind may exude with the Juice.
Cool and drink. while meantime fast
ing. Keep this up for several days
consecutive1y.
Lemon Juice for Headache.
Rubbing slices Of lemon on the temples
and back Of the neck will cure some
kinds Of headache, and the Juice OF Q
Evening star., 1915-08-15

titude because it suggested a waist
line, which is not always a pleasing
effect on a figure that has become thick
with the years and lack of exercise.
The short coat was not always a sue
cess for the same reason, and. there
fore, this pointed one with its irregular
peplum may fill long-felt want
There is apprehension in the air, also,
longer any doubt that the autumn hats
will be almost brimless and unusually
high. Neither one of these features
recommends itself to the average
to wear such hat. Youth-glorious. in
solent youth-which in these recent
days has been able to take unto itself
any of the sartorial bravados of the
hour, will, probably. adopt these hats
that SAVIOR, unpleasantly, of the reign
of Louis XI, whose era was enlivened
by the wit of Francois Villon and by
the hennin which brought it's obdurate
wearers a stern rebuke from the
church.
Any and" all kinds of high, brimless
hats seem to be on the lnillinerg
shelves. The silk top hat. worn by the
schoolboy at Eton, is among the num-
ber and has already been worn over
here. much to the amusement Of the
bystanders, who thought it was mere
ly a theatrical trick. 1t appears now
that it was a genuine forerunner Of Q
new fashion.
1t goes with the broad Eton collar Of
stiffened linen which the shops have
been trying to make popular since
April. When young woman adds the
hat and the collar to a short Eton
jacket Of velveteen, it is a pity that
the excessively narrow skirt has ceased
to be, for its addition as a final touch
to the costume would be an excellent
mimicry of British boyhood.
The Eton jacket, by the way, 10 not
at all amiss in the fashions of the day.
It has an oriental counterpart in the
loose bolero that the French are put
ting on their newest evening frocks,
boleros of beaded embroidery. Of tulle
embroidered, of crystal net under which
shine the colors Of a soft sash.
Another point about the new hats
to get back to the subjects the
promised use Of flowers. This is done
in Paris to give plentiful work to the
the women and girls, and it may spread
over here. Everywhere one sees evil
dence now of the employment of avail
able and needy human material by the
French fashion creators.
Everything is in style that helps the
destitute of France. Surely America
will be only too glad to do her best by
choosing one fashion instead of an
other that will put coin into the hands
of the woman workers of France. We
have shown no niggardly attitude in
that respect since August the first. and
that creating fashions in Paris today
is not a matter of prestige; it is a Ques-
ton of Staving off starvation from
women and babies.
Evening star., 1915-08-15

gained by it. for the majority Of wom-
en- have accustomed themselves to
wearing a different type of costume
and I should think they would resent
being hurled back into a period when
macrame lambrequins, ornamented ket-
ties, ribboned frying pans and bediz-
ened milk stools were regarded as
suitable drawing room furniture.
II we attempt this ugly, common
place and unspirited costume. let us
pray for another William Morris to
come among US and sweep all of such
dowdiness into the dust heap as he did
with the aforementioned articles OF
household things in England.
We pay homage daily to Paul Poiret
as an apostle Of good line and brilliant
color in dress. but the world does not
half know or praise what William Nor
ris did in interior decoration. Work
ing as did Poiret he banished the su-
perf1cial, artificial, superfiuous adorn-
ment Of personal belongings. Down
went the spurious. up came the gen
uine, under his teachings. And yet, the
most that the many know of him is
Evening star., 1915-08-15

u 7RS, CHAMP CLARK. 1t is said.
ml has always had very distinct
6V0 ideas about individuality in
children. And the wedding of her
daughter Genevieve seemed to show
that one Of her children. at least, had
shown the wisdom of Mrs. Clark s
ways. For Genevieve Clark certainly
had an individuality that was strong,
interesting and-individuaL.
From the time Mrs. Clark's children
were able to toddle their individuality
was given q chance,
They were allowed-expected, In fact
Ito depend, In most of their conduct,
on their own judgment. They picked
out their own clothes, bought the
presents they gave away and even de-
cided on how they should spend their
holidays. There was no constant re-
frain after school hours Of Children,
haven't you any studying to do?" The
Clark children. 1t was taken for grant
Cd. had enough good sense to study
their lessons, If they had any as
signed in school, without being nagged
into 1t.
It Is one Of Mrs Clark's favorite prin-
ciples that the individuality of children
is something that should receive every
bit as much attention as their diges-
tion, or respiration, or any other of the
Subjects that mothers usually consider
essential to their children's we'll being.
What are you doing about your chill
dFen's individuality?
One thing that mothers are quite apt
to do 10 to decide some time in the early
history of each child-long before it
could have possibly displayed any signs
Of its future disposition-just what
Evening star., 1915-08-15
SUNDAY MENU.

SUNDAY MENU.
BREAKFAST.
Oranges.
Cereal.
Clam Fritters or Goldfish Cakes.
Corn Mufiins. Conee.
DINNER.
Watermelon. Radishes.
Lamb or Chicken Curry. Baked POTATOES.
String Beans.
Sliced Tomatoes and Lettuce with trench
Dressing.
Lemon lee or Sherbet. Waters.
Iced Tea
SUPPER OUT OF DOORS.
Ham and Cheese Sandwiches.
Deviled Eggs.
BluebeFries or Plum Jam.
Lemonade or Iced Tea.
Evening star., 1915-08-15

who never strive for the sensational or
the conspicuous In apparel. are giving
to the silhouette a gypsylike line
wrapped sashes that extend from the
bust almost to the hips.
There is no attempt there to make
the waist appear small. The figure Is
left to a certain naturalness that is
exceedingly. pretty and sensuous when
one happens to be slenderly well
formed.
The opposing colors in these gowns
are well managed and delight the eye.
Take, for instance, blue tulle by
Cheruit with an old rose girdle, and
one Of dahlia-colored tulle with a rose
satin belt.
Attractive ideas, don't you think? In
each of the skirts of Doucet there must
be twelve yards of wide tulle used.
possibly more, yet there is no undue
mass.sof material, which floats closely
to: Sthef ankle. 1t is only when one is
wa1ktnE or dancing that the sheer
ruchlngs and pleatings swirl out from
the figure.
The average woman is more inter-
ested in her autumn coat suit than
she is in evening frocks, although the
changes in fashions for the latter
should enable her to alter whatever
she has. if that is possible, in order
that they may meet the social life of
the early fall. when people come to-
gether in town again and one wants in
formal evening clothes, if no other
kind.
Nothing is settled over here in the
way of any clothes until the August
models are received from Paris SO far
as the winter is concerned. but the
men and women who went over early
in the summer for advance styles to
sell to the trade that supplies a vast
amount of people in clothes before the
season really opens, have ushered in
doubtedly. in the weeks before
Thanksgiving.
Some of these are belted exactly at
the waist line as they were in the late
spring; others have an exaggerated
point in the front somewhat after the
manner of an Elizabethan bodice with
a f1aring peplum attached. and running
high at the sides. This is a novelty,
and whether or not it will be repeated
frequently one cannot tell. There are
many women to whom it will be very
becoming At least it is decided
change from what we have had. and
there are rumors that it will usher in
a variety of coats that run down to a
point either in the front or back with
high sidelines. For the woman who is
over fifty and whose hips have broad
ened, the point will be good and the
side shaping can be managed according
to her requirements.
The belted coat has not proved an
entirely satisfactory model to the null