Evening star., 1915-03-21

which this dividing line is omitted. 1t
is more frequently placed at the nor
NAL waist line than we have had II for
years. but evidently the old-fashioned
place for the waist is to be popular
again and belts pay their oheisance to
II. The empire line is also observed.
one sees evening frocks that are dis
tnct return to those lines worn oT
Josephine, the single large ornament
in front coming back as feature OF
adornment
With the empire revival comes also
the small sleeve and the round decol-
letage. Some of the French designers
have submitted evening frocks that are
high in front and extremely low in the
back. but this is not an attractive line.
Fashion may recommend IT, but few
women will adopt IL.
Along with pockets. belts have also
appeared on skirts. much after the
manner that Cheruit employed some
months ago. TWO or three OF them,
tiny little apologies for belts. are
placed across the middle of the front or
back. holding fiat the fullness,
While all the designers pay tribute
to the wide skirt not all of them are
in favor of fullness over the hips For
slim, young things there are skirts
that are frankly gathered around the
waist line and adorned with two large
patch pockets on each side, but the
majority of skirts are firmly held in
until the fullness reaches nearly to
the knees. where it Is allowed to fare
it's utmost.
Pleats are universal They are usual
ly stitched down to the foundation or
held down by straps of material finish
ed with small buckles in front. There
are pleats in groups. mt regular inter-
walls. touching each other. starting at
the waist or at the edge of hip yoke.
As all the new materials are flexible
there is no ungraceful effect. no ap-
pearance OF massed material. which ts
so ugly on any figure.
Variety of Sleeves.
governing sleeves. judging from the
variety put cat this spring. but be-
meath the seeming license there is real
order. The sleeve must show the arm.
or rather reveal its shape The style
chosen to express this is left to the
dressma ker. Some OF the best frocks
show long wrinkled sleeves of the fab
ric, others have transparent sleeves of
batiste, of chiffon. of organdie. The
kimono and the elongated armhole do
not appear, except in isolated cases. but
it may be safely said that they are re-
served for topcoats. In these the rag
Ian shoulder dominates. although in the
short outer jackets In brilliant colors.
which are the prevailing fashion for
| country wear. the armhole is nearly
normal
Coat sleeves are long and moderately
small, ending in some kind of turnover
cuff. The gauntlet shape has been re-
vived as a foundation for more but
tons and there is also sleeve that
tapers down toward the wrist and
closes with small buttons of horn. run
through tailored buttonholes. Loose
three-quarter shapes are not in first
style. Here and there one sees the
half-1oose elbow sleeves with a long
lower sleeve of transparent material.
usually white.
There are three princess frocks
among the new clothes from Paris. and
! as they are sponsored by good houses.
one cannot help speculating upon the
return of this Victorian fashion. They
| look quite attractive in their new form.
especially one in mauve satin over a
slip Of white satin and lace.
| There is another in snuff brown tat
! feta that has a corkscrew effect work.
ed out by strips of the fabric, cut on
| the bias, and Joined together over a
princess lining. The skirt of this frock
| is the widest one of the season. except
those intended for dancing. 1t Is high
| in the neck, except for slight V In
front, beneath which is knotted era
vat of white lace.