davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

THERE is mere than mere style
importance in tnis seasons apotEeo.
sis Of the tailored suit in Paris. There
is sentiment also-the fine and ex-
qulsitely expressed sentiment of the
French. In the absence of gay col
ors and frivolous lines, notable in all
Partisan dress these days is express
ed the serious spirit Of the people, the
dignity, the restraint , the grief Of
stricken and bereaved France. .
This dignity and seriousness are
evinced, s%artCriallF, in fashions that
are as far as pos sible from the flip.
pant and gay; and since tailored COS
tunes best express seriousness and
dignity, the new models fer fall arc
almost exclusively on tailored lines
as Ear as Paris is concerned. at least.
The great French dressmakers are
turning out charming frocks, their
gowns, dancing dresses, rich wraps,
but these are for Americans and for
American Importing retailers In tile
streets Of Paris now, at the theatres,
in the cafes one sees only tailored
costumes-clt with inimitab!e Paris
chic, but still expressing dignity ana
quiet distinction rather than the usual
gaiety so dear to P~arisiennes.
BERNARD REEVES THE
7EDINGoTE.
Full eff this new sentiment of seri-
BUSINESS is the new redingote recently
advanced by Bernard; and Cheruit has
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

n . "
in ~old braid. Jenny, again a proph-
etess OF the new, is introducing Quak-
er wraps that seem in sympathy with
the spirit of the hour in Paris, so
staid and serious they are-ye: having
a scupcon Of Jenny's inimitable 60.
quetry of style thrown in. Nearly ~
cry coat has the lew waistline now
favored, and there are many varia-
tons on the dignitied redingote style.
In general, however, the fall separate
coat, whether for motor wear, Ter
street or for travelling, will have ratf-
err close lines over shoulder, dust and
arms and will fare out to good Widtl
below the knee, a belt or some mcdi-
fication of the nc.t motif restraining
the material just below the normal
waistline. Huge buttons of colored
galalith add much smartness to SIM
ply cut coats of WOOL mixture in dark
blendingS.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19
Dignity aid Distinction in New Goats, While Skirts Retain Their
Saucy Swing Above the Buttoned Boot-Dark Coors Relieved by
Touches of Bright Embroidery-A Modified Military Suggestion
Marks the Fall Taileur. - -

followed with a new %full-length coat
over a matching skirt. The long lines
and almost austere grace Of both
these costumes are notable; yet
strangely enough, Paris in taking to
sericus-minded t%ailleurs, has retained
the short and saucy skirt which still
swings clear Of the buttoned boot top
and gives no evidence of dropping an
inch lower for another season at least.
The short skirt in combination with
the redingote and full length coat has
a military suggestion, and, indeed.
most of the new Paris taiileurs sug-
gest the military influence, though
this suggestion is kept within the
bounds of conservatism and rarely ap-
proaches the picturesque. 1t is evident
in the shape Of reveres, in pockets and
belts, in ibraid-bound edges of coats
and skirts and in grouped buttons
and silk facings.
YOKEs GIVE NEW SKIRTS
SMOOTH HIP LINES.
Callot and Beer are emphasizing
strongly the deep yoke en- skirts OF
moderate fullness. This f%ullness is
now gracefully restrained in grouped
pleats or in gathers emanating from
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

pocket motifs--in tailored costumes
at least, for the favored materials foc
such costumes-serges, ~gabardincs
and a rep suiting of mohair and worst
ed weave, now very popular--do not
admit Of much gathering around the
waistline. Doucet has introduced a
graceful h%alf-yoke which crosses the
front of the skirt only. Cheruit uses
pleats and gathers together, and Jen-
ny has brought out a very original
skirt having six small, t7aring gores
at the sides with straight panels az
back and front. This skirt is especial
ly smartly in line and will probably be
come a fad as so many cf Jenny's
nripinatinnS do
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

of plush. There are, besides the en-.
veloping collars, cuffs, like small
muffs, bands around the bottom, and
often other bands, straight down the
front. t.Q
It is going to be a season OF top.
coats, over one-piece dresses, II
many women are buying them instead
of the ubiquitous suit OF other seas
ons. The materials used for them are
as various as the designs are similar
There are broadcloths ana meltOns
and all kinds of soft-finished fabrlcs,
there are pushes and velvets, n
heavy ribbed silk, and even Satlns.
novelty is the shiny leather coat IN
troduced by Paquin, which looks .rath'
err as if it had been made for a LADY
aviator.
All the models are cut with a flare
from the waist. Many are Delteu'
many have pockets, some are cut
slightly fitted at the waist in reding.
ote style. The sleeves are as often OF
the square, kimono variety, as OF the
set.in type. One late Importation a
it's fur band around the skirt OF the
gown, which was designed to wear I'M
der it by way of a variation from the
usual mode.
The colors arc subdued neutrals,
erays from pearl to taupe, smoke-col'
or, fblackinsh browns, champagne or
ecru; or tlse rich dark colors, hunters
green, dark sapphire blue, wine color
ed, or ink-purple. The furs are beav-
er. kolinsky, primmer, seal, besides
skunk, fox in many shades and op'
pOssum.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

&. In. the adorably youthful
style peculiar to Jeanne ,1anvini
is this little taillenri of navy blue
wool jersey with a wide collar OF
white jersey. The Russian peas
ant blouse is suggested in the
loose coat with its belt passing
through a SHRED casing at the
back. The long buttoned pocket
flaps and "Aying" panels which
give width to the skirt are of the
material, tucked over cords. This
coTding appears also on the coat
front and sleeve.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19
A HAVE CHOKER
~.

A striking feature Of the new separ'
ate coat is its tall, perfectly straight
collar, usually buttoned at n side,
beyond the line Of the double45reast-
ed coatfro2t. These tall, severe COL
lars give a military trigness to sim
ply cut coats Of covert and dark wool
mixture. Some models r especially
military--like a soldat blue cloth coSI
~ Lanvin with pocket embroideries
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

4. A redingote suit in the dig
ni6ed style Of the Louis Philippe
era, built by Maurice Meyer,
whose grandfather was court tai
lor in the time Of the famous
Louis, above NAMED. Very d;gni-
fed and distinguished is the long
coat with its ornamentation of
embroidery adroitly placed, col
lar and cuffs being austerely plain.
The costume is made Of sage
green English mohair with en-
broidery in self tones.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

= /. Doucet contributes to au-
tumn fashions a fatigue uniform
: suit of dark green moufHonae,
! with belt attached to the back
breadth of the coat. Big buttons
covered with the material ado
smartness combined with simplic-
ity and the high, close collar IS
distinctly military in suggestion.
Like all walking costumes, this
one shows the buttoned boot.
AmrSanesxkssYy
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

. r." ~ ~ n
6. Beer has evolved this smart
new redingote which hints at the
early Victorian mode with its low
collar and pointed basque oves.a
gathered skirt. The redingote, Is
this seasons, ~style-revival and the
Beer model pictured is of Joare
blue mohair and worsted epIwith
cuffs and collar of midnight blge
velvet. .4. e;p q. )
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1915-09-19

2. Military influence pervades
this covert cloth suit from Martial
ct, Armand. Ei:ius CT braid trim,
the sleeve ard gold stars are en-
troiJered in tie collar and the
-~1eticule that matches the suit. The
lony-skirted coat has military dash
and swing and the short, ripple
skirt Of the suit reveals the trim
buttoned boot.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Foolinu the Enemy.

Rain was falling steadily as the weary cyclist plodded on through the English mud. At last he spied a fig ure walking toward him through the gloom.
 Gladly he sprang off his machine and asked the native:
 How far of is the village Of Pop pleton?"
 Just ten miles the other way. sir. was the reply.
 "The other way!' exclaimed the cyclist But the last signpost passed said 1t was in this direction
 An" said the native. with a know ing grin. but. ye see, we turned that there post round so as to fog those ere Zeppylings!'-Pittsburgh Chron icle-Telegraph.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Police Would Get Ii.

The talk of parents at home about conditions in the police department made a deep impression on the mind of a twelve-year-old boy who was be fore Judge F J. Lehr In juvenile court for stealing a bicycle. The court had lectured the boy and his three com panions on the disgrace of stealing and finally asked the boys what they thought about stealing.
 Now suppose everybody were to steal" the court suggested, and ther what do you think would become oi all of our property"
 "Oh. the police would get every thing" was the boys quick response Indianapolis News.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25

large openings in the front or south side. instead of windows. These open ings are covered with wire netting. If necessary, thin cotton may be used over the wire. Inside there Is a large scratching shed 19 feet square. In the back part of this room the roosts are supported by hanging wires suspended from the roof, so that the whole floor space may be covered with straw and used for scratching purposes.
 The roosts and nest boxes are all made easily removable, to be carried outdoors at housecleaning time, so that all the walls and the ceiling may be sprayed with whitewash or crude oil.
 The nest boxes. roosts and all ether chicken-house furniture are treated to the same Kind of a bath, after taking them outside, and they are left to dry in the sun for several hours before be ing put back into place in the house. This is done frequently in warm weather and occasionally during the winter. The climate or length of the warm season has a good deal to do with the proper disinfection of the
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25

other room-the regular brooder room lis overcrowded.
 From the matching room the hens with their little broods are transferred to the brooder room in front. There they are furnished with separate brooder coops. where they can nurse their little families until they are old enough and strong enough to go into one of the colony houses.
 All the furniture in the matching room and breeder room is made re movable. for easy cleaning, the same as the mcvables in the large room. This is a very important provision in any poultry house. because 1t is oocu- pied for months at a time by large | number of hens and chickens. so that l it is absolutely necessary to conduct the details of the business in such a way as to discourage little insects that are disposed to make themselves trou- blesome.
 The general construction of the building above the concrete founda- ton is of wood. built in the usual way, except that great care is taken to have the inside woodwork as smooth as pos sible, so it may be easily treated with disinfectants to destroy all forms of , life that are not profitable.
 The roof of the building Is of the
 usual gable-end pattern, with a rainy weather pitch. In making the roof the i rafters are first covered with roofing boards. then with building paper and | shingles. The underside of the collar beams and the lower part of the rafters are ceiled with tongue and groove cell | ing. carefully fitted at the purlin joints and at the plates to prevent openings that might form a lodgment
 for lice or mites.
 The whole interior is thoroughly
 well painted with three coats of thin
 white lead paint. carefully rubbed into
 the grain of the wood. which makes
 the inside of the house light and clean.
 It is easy to care for fowls, even
 though the house may be crowded.
 when provision is made 10 keep the place clean without unnecessary labor.
 The success of poultry house de,
 pends on little things. and there are a great many of them. The needs of a
 houseful of poultry are numerous. but
 simple when the business is well un'
 derstood.
 A good poultry man or woman is not l likely to neglect well-bred fowls in 8
 well-built house, because there is a
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
LOVE OF ART NOT REQUIRED
Mans lnsensibiiity to the Beautiful Understood When He Revealed
 His Life's Occupation.

As they passed the soldiers monu. ment in the public square of a small town he turned to his right-hand com panion and said:
 Pretty bad, eh?"
 What's pretty bad?"
 Why, this monument. Awful. isn't 1t. to put those things up all over this fair land? No art in 'em."
 T rather like 'em."
 Rather like 'em. eh? suppose you think that pile of chimneys over there is pleasing to the eye?"
 Not bad"
 What do you think of those fright full advertising chromos on the land scape?"
 Pretty good"
 You'd like the interior of New York theater-I believe"
 Splendid"
 Ever heard of art?'
 Never"
 Do you mean to say. sir. that some of the sublimest notes of the human heart meet no response in your bo som? Have you no taste. no judg ment. no sense of anything harmoni ous? Are you lost to the fitness ol anything at all? Great heavens. sir. Where did you come from? Who are you?"
 "I. sir, am the heartless wretch who arranges the deathbed scenes in the moving picture shows"-Life
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
TOO MUCH ACTIVITY.

Frederick W Steckmsn, noted iL Washington for his quick wit and droll manner. was demonstrating with a friend for overdrawing a bank ac- count
 "A man like you" he said. ought not to have a bank account. You ought to pay as you go. IL is not square 10 the bank"
 "oh." said the friend, banks like small and active accounts. Any banker will tell you that he prefers an active account"
 Yes" said Steckman, but they don't want 'em to have St Vitus' dance "-Exchange.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
TUREING SMOKE INTO STEAM
Leading Rail-oad Has Recently h. stalled New Device, Which To
 Said to Be a Success.

Due, 1t is said. to agitation which nearly forced the identification of the system, the New York Central rail road at Englewood. III. has installed a smoke consumer which washes the smoke before it is permitted to es- cape. Asbestos conduits are suspend ed over the stalls of the engines, con- meeting with the smokestacks. These collect the smoke and carry 1t through a pipe to a large fan, which forces 1t into a concrete tank which contains hot water to the depth of IS feet. When the smoke emerges il is steam. The coloring matte. has been taken out-tar and scotland a little mois- ture added which forms stes.... In- stead of a coiorless gas. This steam is then permitted 10 escape The resi- due, when skinned of the water, looks like black lard. It is taken from the tank and stored in barrels. Although this waste contains 80 per cent of pure carbon. which is the ac- tive principle in coal, il cannot be used as fuel, according to the Tech nical World, because it is divided into such small particles that if an effort were made to burn it an ordinary draft would carry the most of 1t up the smokestack IL is said that 1t can be used in the manufacture of paint, and some such use will probably ultimate ly be found for it Nine barrels of the black substance which formerly lodged in neighboring lace curtains Is being collected daily.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Floor Plan.

poultry house to keep it in proper condition
 The matching room is provided with extra large nests. to make room fer a layer of sod in the bottom and plenty of straw to make the nests comforta- ble. Sod holds moisture, so the eggs will hatch better. There are 2S of these nest boxes. They rest on the floor and occupy all the wall space. leaving the center part of the room for the attendant to move about and visit each matching box every day.
 It is . comfortable sight to see the biddies attending to business as close peiGhbors in these different little boxes. Rather close attention is re' quired, however. by the poultry woman during the incubation season, because occasionally one of the hens wanders from home, and that is what makes trouble.
 These nest boxes during the fall and early winter are used for the laying hens up to the time when incubation should begin. After the breeding sea son in early string the same room comes in handy to shelter an extrs brood or txo of chickens when th<
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
By WILLIAM A. RApFoRo.

Mir William A Radford will answer questions and give advice FREE OF COST on all subjects pertaining to the subject of building work on the farm. for the readers of this paper. On account of his wide experience as Editor. Author and Manufacture. he is. without doubt. the Address all .nouiries to William \. Rad ford. No. 1877 Prairie avenue. Chicago, Ill, and only inclose two-cent stamp for reply.
 Keeping purebred poultry requires better buildings than were considered necessary for mopgrel fowls so com mon a few years ago.
 Poultry associations are responsible for the wholesale breeding of valu- able fowls, because the shows they have held and the gospel the members have preached has penetrated into every section of the country.
 The result is that a good many diff. ferent kinds and sizes of poultry houses have been designed and built, many of which are thoroughly practi. cal.
 One Of these is a combination poul. try house having matching room and & brooder room besides the regulation winter scratching floor. as shown in the accompanying illustration. The main part of the building is devoted to the scratching shed. but the other com, partments are valuable accessories.
 This building has a good solid con- crete foundation and a concrete floor. The scratching shed is built with three
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Tommys Prize.

Well. Tommy, I suppose you are entitled to something nice as re ward for graduating from the public school" said the friendly aunt. What has your father planned for you?'
 He says can help take care of the garden during the summer vacation said Tommy. and every time think of it I wish had failed in my exami nations"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Doubtful.

"of course don't wish to put any obstacles in the way of your getting married" mistress said to her serv- ant. but wish il were possible for you to postpone it until get another maid"
 Well num-" Mary Ann replied, I 'ardly think l know i'm well enough to arsk i'm to put it on. n."-London Standard.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
New Use for cocoanut OH.

Recently cocoanut oil has been used as the basis for the manufacture of . "condensed milk" said to be chem ically indistinguishable from con densed cows milk, and claim is ad- vanced that an excellent cocoanut oil cheese" will shortly be placed on the market. Coccanut lard is highly ap- preciated by Mahammedans, whose re- Iigion forbids them using any product derived from the hog.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Sure Enouoh.

Mrs. Bscon-This paper says that according to an Italian physician love causes an intox;cation of the nervous centers, producing a disease that, if not cured. may lead to ueurasthenia and even insanity. Do you think that is so, John.
 Mir. Bacon tbusy with the kid)-Oh. how should know,
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
LOOK YOUR BEST
Az to Your Hair and Skin, cutieura
 Win Help You. Trial Free.

The Soap to cleanse and purify. the Ointment to soothe and heal. These fragrant super-creamy emollients pre- serve the natural purity and beauty of the skin under conditions which. If neglected. tend to produce a state of irritation and disagreement.
 Free sample each by mail with Book. Address postcard. Cuticura, Dept. KY, Boston. Sold everywhere.-Adv.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Chief Object of Travel.

the world"
 Why don't you go now, grandpa'" Why, am e.ghty-ive years old. But you are hale and hearty"
 True l am able to stand the trip. But couldn't hope to live long enough to get my i'll of talking about it."
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
4 Painful Memory.

If I should ask you to earn your breakfast, what would your reply be-" said the housewife.
 Dat would depend. mum, on de job an ce meenu," answered the tramp. T made a deal like dat wid a lady onct an after I'd chopped wood fur an hour she handed me a couple Of cold battercakea"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
SartoriaI Note.

She-Women are more rescourceful than men.
 He-I guess that's right. A man has to get his clothes made to fit his shape, but a woman can get her shape made to fit her clothes.-Philadelphis Record.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
The Drawback.

That fellow you've got to coach you has anything but an imposing ap pearance- He has a very poor car. riage-
 But then he's nothing but hack. !"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Its Nature.

What Tas turned In about that noiseless rife experiment."
 Nothing. In the nature of the ex. pertinent they couldn't make a re- port"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
A Dead One.

Yes" said the young lady. T spent the entire evening telling him that he had a terrible reputation for kissing girls against their will"
 And what did he do?"
 He sat there like a boob and de nied it"-Kansas City Journal.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Good Fortune.

''I found a four-leaf clover on my lawn today" said MT. Crosslots.
 "I suppose you think that's lucky" 'I do. I'm lucky to find anything in that lawn except dandelions and ragweed"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Berlin Society.

What are you wearing that long face for. professor"
 Reason enough. doctor. I've just been to call on my old friend Privy Councillor Schulze-and what should I do but leave my bread ticket instead of my visiting card"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Too Many Adiectiyes

Oldbach-Congratulations, old boy. hear you are the proud and happy father of twins.
 Wedderly-Well, part of your state ment is correct I'm the father of twins. all right
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
An Artist

Mrs. Lotarct. won't you draw some pictures for me-"
 Why, h.. dear child, can't draw" Yes. you Gas: father says ycu'r' a designing woman"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Equal to the Oeeasion,

But don't be silly" said the sweet young thing. she couldn't talk while you were kissing her"
 "Oh, yes, she could" said the man. But didn't you kiss her on the mouth?"
 Certainly: but she talked through her nose"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Decorated Mentality.

Your mind seems very much rufaed," said the observing friend
 No wonder" replied the irritable man. Ny wife talks 10 me for hours about the new fashions
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Much Verse.

Heres a woman wants divorce because her husband painted her red"
 How foolishly particular some women are. IL would have been worse if il had been the town"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Misunderstood.

Hubby. If l asked you for a check for a hundred dollars, what would you do?"
 I'd give you assent"
 "Oh, you mean old thing"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
The Way of it.

"Jagss always knows just what would save the country. He takes in every point"
 And what does his wife do?"
 "Oh. she takes in washing"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Misery Loves Company.

She (after the boat was capsized)- Well, anyway, there's two c. US :n :he water.
 He-Yes, we're both in the same boat.-Philadelphia Ledger.
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25

Sounds Like a Stadium Piece. He-Have you ever seen the nebuls of Andromeda?
 She-No; where was it played?
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Aiways on Hand,

T never lose my temper" ar0ed Mrs Gabb.
 No" replied MT. Gabb. You keer 1t in such constant use that 1t has nc chance to get lost"
Tombstone epitaph., 1915-07-25
Exceeding the Limit.

So you don't think much of his new machiDe?"
 No. he says 1t went faster on trial trips than the rate sworn to by the constable who arrested him"