davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

Many a man imagines he's the whole
circus who hasn't the ghost of a show.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

According to statistics, there are
more men with blockheads than wood
enlegs.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

Switzerland uses a greater propol
ton of its water power than any othe
country.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

A leader is a great man who knows
when to sidestep.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

Love is the sugar that takes the bit
ter taste out of life.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

Better not try it on the dog--unless
you are sure of your dog.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

Many a callow youth has been hard
hit by a soft glance.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

The worlds greatest misfit is illus
trated by the big opinions of a small
man.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

The worst thing we can take for a
cold is advice
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

When an old-fashioned farmer trav.
els he carries most of his baggage in
his pockets.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

A first-class lawyer can break an
will-excepting his wife's.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

A barber may not cat sawdust, but
he can well live on shavings.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

Every tombstone speaks well of
man when he Is down.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19
Quite Happy.

Did the play have happy ending?"
Comparatively so. All money was
refunded after the second act."-Fun.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19
Dmportanf 70 Mofhers

Important TO Mothers
Examine carefully every bottle Of
CASTORIA. a safe and sure remedy for
infants and children, and see that II
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

This Didn't Really Happen.
How did you enjoy the dinner"
Fine; nobody mentioned the war
even once"
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

WILL SELL OR TRADE FOR LAND IN
Ark. 100 a. In Clinton CO.. Mo: IS a. cult.
=. hse.. barns A. J. Nave. R.2. Turney, Mo
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19
Playing Poker.

Does the doctor play poker?"
+ Yes. he specializes in it"-lndian-
apolis Star.
Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1915-03-19

man..
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26
Revival of Pettic0atS.

IT HE chief function of the newest
the fashionable bell-shaped silhouette,
consequently they are close fitting i'm
the upper part, with innumerable fluffy
lace flounces below the knees. Black
and white stripes are prominent. There
are also stripes broad and stripes mar
row, striped materials made with plain
flounces, with fine and broad pleatings,
with spiral flounces, with ruchings ap-
piled in novel designs, Roman stripes
in color on a dark background, black
and-white awning and novelty stripes.
All these are being used.
The popular shades of khaki. sand,
putty, battleship gray, Rocky mountain
blue, Arizona silver and other new col
ors used for suits and costumes are also
used for petticoats. Pompadour and
Dolly Warden silks are smart A SHIFT
in styles has made last seasons close
fitting petticoat almost useless, but
there are special petticoat f1ounces If
teen inches wide all made up ready to
apply to these petticoats. changing
them to fit the new circular skirts.
Ruchings are applied to petticoats in
Van Dyck points, and on fine dancing
petticoats lace fiounces are embroidered
with chenille in Van Dyck points. tipped
with pretty little moss rosebuds. There
are startling effects achieved by the
use of contrasting materials in
fiounce very pretty petticoat is OF
striped silk with deep novelty founces.
the upper part of the 1ounce being
plain, cut in deep points. and the lower
part of bias pleating, finished with
line of fine pinked double ruching In
black and white.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26

our situation immensely. There is also
a revival of plush, of duvetyn, of velour
and quantities of tulle. of jetted nets.
of irisdesceut chiffons and some satin:
this gives the shops chance to sell
quantities of materials. especially as All
clothes take more fabric now than for
decades
There is an admirable chance to bring
out broadcloth again and dispose OF
hundreds of yards OF il, for smooth
cloths trimmed lavishly with fur will
rival serge for the autumn and velvet
lection showed an increasing use OF
cotton velvet. and this fabric is in
quantities here. 1t will be more used
for frocks than suits. and the idea
should not be received with enthusiasm.
really, for its adoption leads to lot
of shabby and dusty dressing. Plaid
cotton velvet will be combined with
cloth for suits. and made up into
blouses with bretelles and high belt of
the skirt materials for informal house
wear.
The silk of the sos is also revived.
Cabot brought it out last summer. but
it fell through because there was no
way of getting ii over here. 1t has
faiile background with broad stripes
of velvet going straight across or in
plaid. AS the fashion for e-piece
frocks will be pronounced, all the
lighter fabrics will be in demand for
every kind of costume to go under
warm coats of fur or velvet and fur.
Kolinsky. the Russian cat, is the
peltry most in demand by the fashion
able dressmakers for trimming pur-
poses: some of it is pointed with silver
like a fine fox. Sealskin has come into
it's own again after years of Oblivion
and beaver is ubiquitous. Opossum is
again used, and all the foxes in
separate pieces.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26

are the damned who know their fate"
feeling. Take it. or leave it. is a
suggestion that does not offer any
chance of uncertainty. But to have
a dozen or two possibilities handed out
to a woman who is never too certain
of what she wants to wear at the
best results in season that produces
sartorial indigestion; the world of
dress usually goes wrong under so
much license.
OF course. there is another side to
it which has been argued over and over.
Liberty of choice in fashions allows
every woman to apply clothes to her
especial type, and therefore helps to
destroy uniform dressing, which is de-
cried by all the artists in cloth. as in
canvas.
No doubt there is pleasure in seeing
a world of women variously attired,
as at fancy dress ball, but the process
of choosing and being different from
ones neigAbor has all the hardships
and is as productive of anxiety as get
ting ready for a costume party.
Possibly women are like sheep, in
that they like to be led in the patht
Of fashion: mayhap that is the reason
the shops have such success in selling
cause one woman wants what every
other woman has.
1t is quite true that the women out
of great centers, as we'll as those in
them, seem to have a snug attitude
of well being and cocksureness when
they show off new costume with the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26

Every feature that aims for prominence
is instantly lessened in Importance by
another feature that rises up. One re-
ceives the best opinion and advice in
half dozen different directions. But
even the French designers themselves
are not tenacious about any one style
of gown, or wrap, or silhouette, and
they do not lay down the law in the old
manner concerning a variety OF minor
matters. such as girdles, cuffs. armholes.
trimmings. Innings. hip treatment.
There is the most decided appearance
of wanting to please the American pub
lie that France has yet shown and
the commercial reason for this agree
ableness is quite plain; but that does
not help any one to know what is the
ruling. the guiding fashion.
Goats are long; so much is certain.
And coats are short; so much is sure.
two yards wide. Sleeves are full and
long: quite so, but few wonderfully
good frocks from a famous house have
tight sleeves that end at the knuckleS.
The same perversity is shown in the
waist line and in the treatment of the
hips; one can be fashionable in veri-
table bit of Vatican drapery, as well
as in skirt that clings to the figure.
4 =
No wonder women are disturbed al
though on the surface it seems as
though they should be complacent over
the lack of insistence upon any one
form of fashion. Yet there are large
number of women who want to be GER
tain of what is considered the proper,
the leading, the dominating fashion;
they may not be able to wear it with
grace and fitness. but their minds are
clear as to what should be worn and what
parts of it they can adapt, or adopt, for
themselves.
They have something of that "blest
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26
DISHES FOR EARLY FALL.

who have eaten beans put up in this
way say they taste almost as good as
those freshly gathered.
In drying the beans. they are allowed
to ripen on the vines, then picked and
the vines pulled up and laid out some
where to dry. When the pods are all
dried and opened, shell and spread out
again until perfectly dry.
Green Tomato Soup.
A new soup to most persons is one
made from the green tomato. Chop
fine five green tomatoes and boil twenty
minutes in water to cover. Then add
one quart of hot milk, to which a level
teaspoonful of soda has been added. let
come to boil, take from the fire and
add a quarter cupful of butter rubbed
into four crackers rolled fine. with salt
and pepper to season.
Green Tomato Pie.
Take green tomatoes not yet turned
and peel and slice wafer thin. Fill a
plate nearly full, add tablespoonful
Of vinegar and plenty of sugar, dot
with bits of butter. and flavor with nut
meg or lemon. Bake in one or two
crusts, as. preferred.
Green Tomatoes Canned for Pies.
To fifteen pounds Of round green to-
matoes, sliced thin, allow nine pounds
of granulated sugar and a quarter
pound of green ginger, washed, scraped
and cut very thin. and four lemons
scrubbed and sliced thin, removing all
seeds. Put this mixture over the fire
with a pint of water and cook about
half an hour, taking care the contents
of the kettle do not scorch. Turn into
sterilized glass jars and seal alright.
tablespoonful of cinnamon and
half tablespoonful each of cloves and
allspice may be added to the sauce
while cooking, il desired.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26
Styles of Season Are Satisfactory to Most W0me

general use. The strongest objection
to 1t is that the addition of the white
organdie to a dark silk gown puts il
into the cleaners hands quite too often
to satisfy the average woman. The
sleeves on evening coats are sufficiently
large for muffs; maybe the Chinese
habit OF carrying the hands in ones
sleeves will become fashionable. 1t
saves one an additional piece of peltry.
although no one seems to be averse to
heaping it on. Even fur pockets are
placed on tweed coats for ordinary
morning wear, whereas one always
felt. formerly. that this was the one
type of costume safe from ornamental
ton. There is something about those
two fur patch pockets, however, on an
entirely plain suit, that is quite fetch
ing. And Lanvin is putting fur hens
on petticoats.
The lack of novelty in materials is
comforting to many classes, principal
ly to those who are in the business
of selling fabrics in this country. The
dressmakers should also be glad, for
half of their anxiety in other days con-
cerned the amount of fabric needed to
copy certain French model, and how
and where to get it if there should be
a sudden demand for it.
There are many kinds of fabrics yet
in use that are not easily found in
metal brocades used for evening coats,
and for drapery on frocks of lace or
tulle, but the fact that simple materials
such as serge, broadcloth, velvet, faille
and all the silks from taffeta up or down,
are to be at the top of fashion simplifies
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26
For House Wear.

wv HITE linen modified middies with
Wv collar and cuffs of color and just
little shocking on each side to sup
ply the necessary fullness will be worn
in the house until cold weather. The
shocked stitching and collar and cuffs
may be of horizon or delft blue. pink
or lavender. A dainty neglige of fine
nainsook with half-sleeves and eton
effect has belt of three narrow pink
ribbons braided together. Val lace and
insertion are used with dainty empire
wreaths in blue, pink and green on each
side Another nainsook blouse has
scalloped edges, trimmed with balls of
two shades of blue silk and irregular
motifs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26

remark that every one is wearing it.
Is that the secret behind the seeming
or real lassitude on the part of the
dressmakers in rarely taking the
trouble to vary a model or create
new one?
If the designers will only keep this
variety of fashions before US long
enough possibly good will result. but
the best bet is that the women them
selves will winnow them down to a
few styles and the thousands will
cling to these. 1t may be Russian, it
may be second empire, it might be
Bourbon or directoire; whatever the
majority chooses before December will
rule until new fashions are introduced.
1t is well that one makes an early
choice, even amid all the confusion
that rules. because it is pretty well
ablished that the first Of the new
year will see another change on the
part of the French designers. and they
will be offering something old and
something new for those who have
tired of what they have.
1t always gives one such. hopeless
sensation to read that the new fab
RIGS are ready for the summer of 1916
and that the American houses in the
wholesale trade will be soon ready to
send out men to offer stocks to the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26
THE ART OF BISCUIT MAKING

on Toured board, cut with a biscuit
cutter and bake in Il moderate oven.
Potato Biscuits.
One half a cake of compressed yeast,
one cup of warm milk, one tablespoon
full of sugar. salt, one quart of sifted
flour. two large potatoes, baked and
grated: two eggs. and one-half cup
of butter. Dissolve the yeast in the
warm milk. Mix in the order given.
and knead while the potato is hot. and
set to rise. Add more -four if neces-
sary. Roll thin and cut with small
biscuit cutter. Lay two biscuits. one
on top of the other, in a pan and stand
in a warm place Bake about twenty
minutes in a moderate oven. Brush
over with sugar and water before plac-
ing in the oven
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26

country. Here we have not selected
our things for autumn, and yet the
cables are telling us in a jubilant way
what the trade will be ready to offer
to the tumble of fashions now Of
fered to one, makes timid or an i'm
patient soul say: Il won't buy any
thing: will wait until everything I
own is worn to FRAGILE"
Such talk, however, is not good for
trade. The industrial work in women S
apparel in New York alone is SO ire
mendous that any chill thrown upon it
v ouId send thousands of women and
children to a starvation basis, and it
is a woman's duty to help quicken
the life along those arteries.
The tumble in fashions makes the
work of reporter hard. too. for there
Is no one direction in which to travel.
1t is difficult to attempt to guide
| readers. because there is pitfal at
every few steps. The designers have
not laid down any law: neither can
we. 1t is our duty simply to tell every
thing that has been devised to put on
| woman; we are not reformers, but re-
porters, and must follow faithfully the
windings and turnings of those vino
make clothes.
The safest plan this season is for a
woman to pick out the silhouette that
she likes and then go ahead. 1t is
asking too much of ones courage to
insist upon a narrow skirt. although
come of tie most fashionable women
at Newport have that kind of courage.
They. however. have the money to IN
dulge in within, and suddenly. throw
ing it aside. branch into something
sensational and revolutionary. The
average woman cannot indulge in any
such caprices. She must wear what
she buys, although she knows that it
puts her at her worst each time she
does it. This. alone. is one of the
agonies of a small income. II there is
a main fashion it is in the excessive
width between the hips and the ankles,
and the narrowness of the figure above
the waistline. This is a distinctly
oriental silhouette. 1t may have been
adopted in 1880. but all through the
decades of its recrudescence it owes
it's origin to Persia, to Arabia, to Tur-
key, to India. Each woman can decide
on how wide or how narrow she wishes
the skirt and the bodice to be, but the
one thing she must avoid is that sag
ging, careless, sloppy" appearance
above the belt that fashion has insist
ed upon for several years. This has
gone in a twinkling.
The new fashions do not insist upon
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26

the darts which give the bust promi-
hence and outline a strong curve to-
ward the small waist. because there
is too much orientalism in clothes yet
to allow of small waist, but the
shoulders are fitted, and the chest is
smoothly covered.
The shoulders are often made more
narrow in appearance by dropping
line or cap to which the sleeve is
gathered; but nothing must take away
from the attenuated back that is made
to look smaller by reason of several
seams running from shoulder to waist
or hips. if the garment is a coat. There
is no longer any prejudice against
seams. What would have been consid-
cred too old-fashioned for anything
except the family album is now very
good style.
Another accepted fashion of recent
years that must be avoided is the
three-quarter sleeve. No matter for
what hour the garment is intended dur
ing the day, the sleeve must be long.
There's no uncertainty there. 1t may
ate. cuffed with muffs of fur. or fin
ished with silk cord; it's style de-
ponds upon the type of blouse, but its
length depends upon the present law.
There is no tendency to allow the
least evidence of fullness at the wrist;
whatever the width at the elbow--and
it is usually considerable-the wrist
part fastens in as snugly as a glove.
G1applly lnlS Is so, 1Or IL is one OF the
best lines woman can adopt il she
wants her hand to look well.
X X
The sleeve that is gathered to a
small cap at the shoulder. bulges out
over the elbow and held in below
is the one that the majority of French
designers have sent over. 1t has talk
en- the place of the bell-shaped sleeve
which was featured last winter in coats
and frocks. That style is out, unless it
is occasionally used on a luxurious
long topcoat of velvet or fur.
The eighteenth century sleeve, which
is made of white batiste or organdie
and ends with a frill over the hand,
held in place by a tight bracelet of
black velvet ribbon, Is returned to fash
ion: 1t is used on those new kinds Of
winter house frocks which Nine Joire,
of the house of Paquin. accentuates.
made of taffeta and organdie or velvet
and organdie. These sleeves are placed
in jumper blouse of blue or black
taffeta and there is a wide band of the
same summer-like material on the
skirt or edging the ends of the sash.
Strange fashion, this, but it Is in
dorsed already by good houses and it is
probable that it will find its way into
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26
Special Correspondence of The Star.


MAN. ion tendency? What sill
Y\V houette dominates? What
" " cloth. what trimming, what
type of collar and sleeve rule? This is
not part of the civil service examina-
tons: they are the questions that wom-
en- ask one another whenever they are
foregathered.
Confusion reigns in the average
mind. Things seem complicated. con-
nicting. jumbled. After a few weeks.
probably. order will be established and
women will be able to see more clearly.
but now they look at the pictures of
the new things and glance in the shop
windows without having the mind clar-
fled.
1t is useless to say that several his
torical periods are drawn upon by the
liberty of choice was given to women
this season possibly to avoid that
steady complaint that the fashions are
made for only one style of woman.
These explanations may explain the
tumble of styles. but they do not aid in
clearing the atmosphere of confusion.
When the united designers of Paris
made certain silhouette fashiona BILE
they usually insisted upon it through
out every garment and never left one
in doubt as to their intentions. The
whole world knew that skirts were to
be narrow. coats long, sleeves short,
collars low and waists below the nor
NAL. No such surety exists now.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-09-26
MERITS OF THE FRENCH
AND AMERICAN LINGERIE

IT HE controversy about the relative
u merits of French and American
made lingerie is something like the
question. How old is Amer or the
discussion anent the true authorship of
Shakespeare's works. 1t will never be
answered.
There are plenty of American women
who think that Anerican-made lin
gerie. cut on American patterns is
much more comfortable and suitable
for Americans-than French lingerie
There are as many who declare that
nothing in the world could match
French lingerie for wearing quality
and style.
The point seems well taken, however.
that American women can be better
htted with American made lingerie For
nobody with half an eye could fail to
see that there are decided differences
of figure between French and American
women. 1t would seem to be rather
bootless to try to fit a French combi-
nation to an American figure without
alteration
Whatever our views may be, we can
surely fnd charming American-made
lingerie in the shops, and we can have
II made according to American pat
terms and by American dressmakers or
seamstresses SO that it equals at least
the French lingerie.
The figured crepe nightgowns are
especially dainty. They are made of
cotton crepe figured with tiny pink
or blue flowers. Some of them have
a little picot edge crocheted in the
color Of the flowers and buttonholed
Sits in colors through which ribbons
are run to make a high empire waist
nj hAn hayy ind
of ribbon in the color of the flowers.
Of course the color of the binding
fades, but then so does the color of
the figures. and with careful washing
both can be made to retain their
brightness for long time.
One Of the prettiest ways of finish
Ing lingerie without much trouble is
with a fold of net or heading, as
IT is called. with the ribbon run
through-and the color of course
showing. These net headings can be
used around the neck opening at the
edge Of the sleeves and around the
waist line.
This is to be season of much en-
broidery. and it would not be at al.
surprising IL embroidered lingerie came
into vogue again. OF course il has
not ever gone altogether out of vogue,
chiefly because the French needle
woman considers a piece of lingerie in
complete unless it shows some fine en-
broidery. But with lace as rival
trimming and with the advent of crepe
de chine and glove silk as lingerie
materials. embroidery has not held
much place in the world of under
muslins for couple of years We
may go back to embroidered corset
covers-on!y now, of course we will call
them underbodies and cut them differ
ently-petticoats. chemises and night
gowns.
The various silk weaves of glove
silk and the like, and crepe de chine.
have shown their worth for lingerie
fabrics. They wear well and they
launder we'll and they are usually more
comfortable to wear than muslin, I'M
less IL be of the finest sort. And
than can be dissolved, like bluing, in
the water in which colored garments
are rinsed. so that faded pink or blue
can be restored to its original fresh
ness.