The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-06-27
Debutante SLOUGH Passing With the
Return of Waists Moulded by
the COrSetiere's Art

Sieiiuer you VIII mat you look
less dowdy In the new frocks and
you will be in better shape by fall
To meet The modes that seem TO he
headed this way.
To the very slender all things arc
possible in the line OF modes, but
Inc slender figures too are taking on
slightly more waist curve, are a triflc
moro rounded in all lines, save
shoulders. than they were last year,
and the extreme blouse and shapeless-
ness OF frocks is unquestionably pass
ing-past-though one still sees the
blouse of less aggressive lines.
once in a while there IL a modlsh
frock OF straight lines, or of lines
straight save for n flare at the bottom
of the skirt.
Ihcre Is the satin evening frock OF
our large group for example. II has
no trimness OF waist line. fails straight
from a high waist line to below the
hip curve, where it begins to spread
n a flare that stamps II as of this
seasons vintage. The skirt dips in a
rounded point at the front and back
inc Is open up the sides TO the hin
line, the edges finished with fluffy
frills of tulle, which practically hide
the tulle underskirt.
But where there is one smart frock
on such waistless lines, there are a
score that hint at waist curves even
II they do not sharply define them.
The two other frocks sketched for our
central cut illustrate this point.
One has an uncompromisingly fitted
bodice, a bodice of seams and curves
and nlpped in waist and little point
front and back. 1t is OF pink tafYeta,
this bodice. with touches OF old blue
velvet at shoulders and bust and with
a very little lace to finish the decol-
letage.
The skirt Is OF pink chiffon and
lace, with bands OF the pink taffeta on
the overskirt and tiny knots of blue
velvet tucked into the lace Of the
petticoat front.
This Is a model hat calls loudly for
the new and more shapely corset; but
the model In white satin and black
tulle is less drastic in its conforming
to the new-old ideas of line. To be
sure, 1t has no blouse. but the little
white satin coat. battlemented around
the bottom, has its waist line and nar-
row belt posed just a trifie above the
normal waist line. so that It DISCUSSES
the actual curve round sides and
back. The black tulle under body,
which fills In the open coat fronts. Is.
however. fitted snugly down to the
normal waist line and the general
effect Is one Of slightly fitted bodice
lines above the full tulle skirt with
Its panels Of horizontal frills. This. by
the way. is a very modish and simple
model for any sheer material with silk
coat.
The ntted bodice 10 more in evidence
among the evening frocks than else
but it appears among the af-
ternoon models too, and even in an
morning frock. though in =,
the last class the increasing trimness
is indicated more often by snugger
or girdling than by actual
fitting Of the bodice.
A silk frock in wide dark blue and
white stripes shows that oven the
utility frocks are developing
the tendency toward closer fitting, and
this frock has, too. the sheer white.
Yong sleeves that lend GOODNESS and
to many a new frock, other
wise dark or comparatively heavy.
some sort Of chemisette, waistcoat or
tucker and collar of the sheer white
stun usually accompanies the sleeves, |
md the whole may be adjustable so
hat 1t may be laundered or cleansed
All Of the shops show charming
In this long sleeved under
line and. though the very fine
live. they are most useful summer
accessories and may be worn with
sleeveless frocks.
In the model just described the I'M
Ter bodice Is Of finely dotted muslin,
md It Is worth noting hat this ma
erial. long neglected, is finding much
for white frocks, negligees,
even parasols and millinery.
But the revival most enthusiast 4
s the revival Of organdy. This began
asst season. but only this summer has
! attained impressive proportions.
oddly enough, the Powered organizes, !
nee beloved of women. have little
'ogue. 1t was the plain sheer white
rgandy that led the movement and ,
till leads 1t. Frocks, blouses. col (
ars, p~arasols, hats-all are offered in {
'hite organdy, and white organdy is t
ombined with anything from chiffon c
0 velvet; but now come the sheer
rgandies in plain one tone effects, ,
elicate shades OF pink and blue and G
elbow and lilac. semi-transparent, t
risp. cool as only organdy can be. a
he tinted organdy is made up, like d
he white. into frocks guiltless OF
trimming other than %ruffles. cords, SC, d
( the organdy itself, and makes most v