The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-03-07

DV '''' NV ~ ~ ~ iNhANvIlS
frankly up the middle of the back,
yet in attractive coloring and ma
terials It has a definitely modish air.
In place of ruchins bordering the
top Of the skirt band one often finds
some very simple embroidery stitching
marking the line of junction between
the two materials. the embroidery be-
ing done upon the sheer stuff In the
color OF the heavier material II the
two materials are not in ono tone.
Fine soutache braiding is frequently
used in the same way and some very
good looking lingerie frocks combine
linen and cotton wolfe or heavy linen
and very sheer linen in some such
way as has been indicated. with e
tracery design OF finest cotton SOU
tache marking the lines where the
two material come together.
Beige chiffon in combination with
dark blue silk Is one OF the color
schemes Increasingly noticeable and
some uncommonly French models have
come over in striped beige and dark
blue and in beige with . large dark
blue dot. A red or rose that Is In
medium tones and has a dash OF
brown dinerentiatins II from more
familiar rose and coral shades Is an
other color frequently associated with
the popular beige. ivory and castor
%colorings and as a relieving note with
other colors too.
That little matter Of back fastening
for bodices assumes moro importance
as the season advances Ono has
grown used to the occasional model
fastening in the hack. but now the
idea seems to be gaining moro force
and n "a only hope for c~onvenienc.
sake that the mode will b. restricted
TO buttons and buttonholes, IN which
guise II Is chiefly evident at present.
There are still hosts OF bodices
opening in front. They ara indeed In
the majority. but when fashions tide
turns one IAN never be sure how
strongly II will set in the new direc-
ton. One thing Is sure. II the high,
close collar Is 10 be with US TO any
compelling extent the bodice opening
In tho back will consort with II more
satisfactorily than one opening in the
front.
The collar Of this type fastening up
the 'front.' Is a failure. There's no
doubt about that One can't make II
look snus and tidy. and using q tigh:
high collar fastening in the back on a
bodice opening IN front Is always Diff
icult. Just now tho collar high IN the
back and on the sides but open wholly
or partially across the front u tho
French favor1te, and innumerable
variations are rung upon It; but. a.
we have said before. the collar rolling
away from the front and moderately
high only in the back Is likely 10 come
into It's own again when hot weather
arrived
Tho speciality shops ara full Of new
and exquisite hand made lingerie col.
dainty. too comfortable and too oon-
venient to be passed by. These now
and fluffy or complicated collars are a
nuisance. There's no doubt about
that. No sooner r they adjusted
than they are crumpled. have lost
their charm Putting Q coat oven them
is fatal. They need wiring. ooaxtns.
One n never strre that they aro look
ing as they should. And on . hot day
who wants q nun of plait!ngs and
frtlls about her throat and ears9
II a high collar It nus be. let u Be
a high. straight, simple stock that
can't get badly OUT OF order. One can
wear that. endure It's discomfort and
at least have a comforting conscious
ness OF ttdiness. but the faring plait-
irgs, wings, ruchings' No. the sim
pier roll collars are q better thing for
uInmer
Paris sanctions collariess daytime
bodices also makes an occasional
model low and round or shallow and
oval o shallow and pointed and I'm
ished in very simple fashion with frill
or ruche or fiat collar or nttle inside
nchu Of net. And the small sQuare Is
we'll liked. either with or without a
standing collar a the back.
Ono uncompromisinsiy high. tfght
stock Is shown OF . smart M piece
taffeta frock whose extreme severity
m tempered by tho cleverness of It's
finish. the quality OF its silk and its
colortng. The model Is illustrated
here. but to appreciate II one mus
understand that what seems to be
mere lines OF stitching in the skirt
yoke and bordering the button bands
Is really hand cording On tho fines,
possible cords. Tho buttons are COW
cred with the silk, M the only re-
heving color is IN the high stock.
This model IL made up In white sup
pie taffeta, with a high. tight stock OF
black, above which shows a frill OF the
white taffeta. Only a mere glimpse o!
the black shows, however, for around
the upper part OF this black stock is
drawn a narrow crush scarf of clear