davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30
CGN2zn6K101 k2~n6NAn25
80 Z O/IIL0MznLep

the head to hold the hair back from
the face, or don n boudoir cap If you
prefer. Draw n basin of warm-al-
most hot--water and drop in heap
ing teaspoonful of boraX. Lean over
the steaming water moment or two.
the flesh of the face over
the steam. Then, with a soft face
brush and pure glycerine soap. scrub
the face thoroughly. cheeks, brows.
chin, nose and the skin all around the
ears which has way of becoming
grimy in winter If not carefully at
tended to. When the face Is beauti-
fully clean and glowing, massage it
patiently for ten minutes with a good
face cream, using two fingers in a
light, firm and persistent stroke. al
ways tending upward. Here is an ex-
cellent recipe for skin food,
Half an ounce each of white wax
and spermacetti. An ounce each OF
cocoanut oil and lanolin. Two ounces
of oil of sweet almonds. Melt all to-
gether in porcelain saucepan, re-
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30

skirts fell modestly half way between
knee and ankle and were invariably
of which does not cling. But
bathing suits at the Paris beaches
were allurng affairs in the way OF
little sleeveless tunics above full
boomers, worn with or without stock
ings, as one chose. And by and by
the bloomer-tunic bathing suit came
to America and was received with ac-
claim. 1t is really a perfectly modest
affair and much better for swimming
than the skirted costume.
so woman has been gradually edu-
Gated up to the pantalet idea and its
coming has not created half the eX-
element and horror that might have
been expected. Some of the skating
costumes of the winter show short
skirts-just to the knee-over 'panta-
lets" of silk which meet the top OF
tall skating boots. These so-called
pantalets are really no more nor less
than ordinary silk boomers, like the
boomers worn beneath bathing skirts,
and they are rather pretty idea In
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30

move from stove and beat in an ounce
of orange flower water and three
drops of tincture of benZoin. Continue
beating until the mixture is soft and
fine of texture, about the consistency
of rich cream. Then set in cool
place in covered jars.
After the massage, battle the face
again in warm water, then rinse in
cooler water then again in cold water.
Finally, go over every bit of the face
with a lump OF ice, holding the ice.
partly covered by towel or clean
wash cloth.
After this treatment the face will
look wonderfully fresh and vivifed,
but there are other things which
must help the bath and massage.
Plenty of air in the lungs is an i'm
perative necessity. Nine women out
Of ten breathe too lightly-a good
deep breath almost never gets to the
bottom of their lungs. This Is another
reason why the skin Is better in the
summer. Exercise demands deep
breathing, and deep breathing drives
impurities from the blood. Stand
before your open window each morn
ing. wrapped in warm bath
gown, of course. and draw in
slowly twenty deep breaths, expell-
ing them slowly. also. Then close the
window. HE to the bathroom and take
your cold plunge-or sponge. as you
prefer-rubbing the whole body brisk
~ with a rough towel afterward. Dur
ing your daily walks in the street,
walk as fast as you comfortably can,
with head up, and remember to draw
as long, deep breaths as you can. In
cidentally. deep breathing helps to
keep down the waistline. Nothing
burns up excess of fat in the body
like plenty Of oxygen.
II you notice that the muscles of
face and chin are sagging and dis
pleasing little lines are beginning to
appear around the eyes and mouth.
use this stringent wash two or three
times each week. Add a teaspoonful
Of fine table salt to cup of fresh milk
and battle face and neck with the
mixture. Do not wipe the face dry;
pat 1t lightly with the palm Of the
hand. The milk should be allowed>to
remain in the pores of the skin. Sew
eral women who have tried this vouch
for it's wonderful results in tightening
up sagging face muscles and smooth
ing out lines.
There Is one other item In tho treat
ment of the complexion in winter
a most important Lam It IL too. And
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30

ners of the pantalet Riding brooches,
for one. A few years ago all women
used side-saddles and the daring spir-
it's who adopted cross saddles (to-
gether with bifurcated riding gar
ments) were froWned upon heavily by
Mrs. Grundy. But the comfort and
grace of cross saddle riding soon es-
tablished this tomboyish method---to
quote those who still believe it repre-
hensible-ard riding coats over bona
fide brooches are such an ordinary
sight now that nobody turns around
TO look at them. Pajamas. ALSO had
their share in accustomlng Mrs Grun-
dy to the idea of women in bifur-
Gated garments. So many women
wear pa jamas nowadays that they are
kept regularly in stock i'm all the de-
partment stores, in varied assert
ment of sizes and qualities. Next
came boomer bathing suits. a few
seasons ago all bathing suits, in
America Al least. had skirts TO the
knee or an inch or two below the
knee. A GsnRration ago bathing suit
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30

its name is--food. Eat properly AT
all times II you want to retain q fresh.
fair complexion into old age. Inn
proper food can turn even the love-
Hest skin of girlhood into dull, life
less. muddy skin at thirty. 1t is hard
TO resist good things to eat (and
drink) but resist one must, If the COM
plexion is valued. One cup of coffee
day can hurt nobody, but four cups
of coffee a day will soon ruin the best
complexion. Too much butter, oil, fat
and rich gravy or fried food will make
the skin coarse, and perhaps cause II
to break out. Too little oily food. on
the contrary, will give a leathery skin.
easily wrinkled. Every woman knows
the danger of sweets. Over-indul-
gence In candy and pastry is almost
certain to ruin the fine texture of the
skin. The rule Of one sweet a day,
ono meat a day. three pints of water
a day and plenty of fruit and vegeta-
bles Is a safe one to 60 by.
And Just a little secret-speaking Of
vegetables-the girl who eats gener-
ously of carrots will be rewarded
with fair white skin and blush-ross
ohAAkA
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30

TT is much more difficult to keep
the skin in fine condition through
the winter months than from
u April to November. In summer
time perspiration takes care of the
complexion. II keeps the pores open
and the skin free OF impurities. II
bleaches the skin also, and makes it
younger and frcsher--less leathery, In
fact-so that rosy color CLOVIS through.
After several months OF winter
gaiety the complexion seems to have
lost all this freshness and bloom. Lit
tie lines have appeared again on the
forehead and around the mouth
Viewed In n strong, mid-morning
light, the skin has a yellowish, lifeless
look. II Is muddy, dull and lifeess
OF course one has stayed up late.
night after niGht-a gay season de-
mands that-and of course one has
eaten more or less of rich, unwhole-
some foods. But the real trouble
comes from dryness of the skin and
exposure 10 dust and winter winds.
And there is Just a possibility that the
face has not been washed enough.
This arouses some indignation in the
woman who protests Immediately: 81
nave my warm pain every HisHt anu
my cold sponge every morning.
Granted: but how much Of that warm
bath does the face get, and how much
or the cold sponge in the morning?
Very few individuals sit in the bath
tub and carefully wash the race be-
fore beginning to splash the water
over arms, neck and shoulders. Even
when the body Is luXuriously bathed
twice day, the poor face often gets
but dab or two night and morning.
The face. especially in winter,
should be thoroughly washed with
clean washcloth, or with the palms OF
the hands, every night ana every
morning; at night with warm water
into which n pinch of boraX has been
dropped, and in the morning win
very cold water--as cold ms can ne
borne. Once or twice week. pref
erably twice, the face must be treated
TO regular scrub-bath, massage
and an application OF cold cream.
This operation will consume at least
half an hour If it il properly per-
formed and should not be hurried
First. tie ribbon snugly around
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30

the skating costume. If the top of
the skating boot were several inches
lower and the "pantalet" correspond
ingly longer, the effect would be hor-
rible, but the tall boot gives an effect
of trimness below the knee-length
skirt and an inch or two or full
bloomer.
The Pantalct AS This Winter Sees 1t.
Several costumes from tho most cX-
elusive retail establishments in Man
haitian have been selected for today's
page, to give an idea of just how the
pantalet up-to-date makes part of
woman's ensemble. That the effect is
not very fearsome, after all, most will
admit. In fact, in one or two of the
pictured frocks it is rather capti-
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30
The Natural Companion
of the Early Victorian
Hoped Skirts --Pajam-
as, Riding Brooches and
TransparentPetticoats
We're Forerunners of
This Winters Panta-
lets.


back in early November. Ru-
mors Of them had stirred the
fashionable world, of course, for last
the European summer resorts-the few
Fairgrounds of Europe not devastated
by war. But thus far pantalets had
been merely a rumor--only fear
some possibility, as were bustles and
hoop-skirts about a year ago. Now,
fashion has adopted both these gro
,esque styles from an earlier era, so
there seems no reason why pantalets
should not have their little day also.
Pantalets on the Stage.
The first pantalet appeared. as has
been said, back in November, when
young woman stepped from a taxi
cab in front of Delmonico's wearing
short frock of biscuit colored chif-
fon, distended over several hoops, be-
low the skirt pantalets, also of bis
cult chiffon, were gathered into a lit
tie frill just above the ankle, show
ing Just an inch or two of cream
colored silk stocking and patent
leather slippers. Next day all the pa
pers recorded this astounding occur
renee and in no time pantalots dis
ported themselves in tho show win
dows OF the big shops, and nauntod
their demure coqueiry in the fashion
magazines.
Last season pantalcts made a ten
tative appearance on the stage. One
example Is cited In the negligee OF
white chiffon and lace, pictured to-
day. There is something indisputably
fetching about this negligee in spite
of its fearsome boldness. When it
appeared every woman in the audi
ence breathed a long "Ah-ah." OF ap-
precia ton, but no woman dared to
copy the fascinating garment for her
own wear at home. Most husbands
would have objected those who did
not object would have 'jeercd. But
this season pantalet negligees are the
craze and some of them are enchant-
ing. For example, a neGligee of pink
Georgette crepe and silver lace which
has a coat OF the pale pink crepe
embroidered in silver, falling TO tho
knee, above baggy pantalets of silver
lace over pink silk, gathered under
anklets of swansdown. The wide
sleeves of the coat are edged Will
swansdown and the garment is belteC
with pink and silver brocade. the
sash ends. falling in front. supporting
silver tassels. The negligee in the
picture has pantalets of white MESA
line silk edged with swansdown. Over
them is draped a sort Of tunic Of white
chiffon, gathered at the back into z
crystal bead tassel. A little coat ol
lace, edged with swansdown. opens
over the white messalne undorslip
and a conventional rose in old pink
and green adds a smart and telling
color touch at the waistline. The car
Of white messaline and swansdowr
hes a crystal bead tassel.
Pantalets on the Skating Costume.
There have been several forerun
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-12-30
SUEDE SPORT JACKETS FOR THE
SKATER.

r INSTEAD of the oldfa shioned
spencer, or hug me-tight" OF
J knitted shetland wool, which gives
extra warmth under the motor coat
or skating coat, the modern girl wears
very natty sport Jacket of soft suede.
tailored to perfection and provided
with knowing little straps and buckles
here and there. These Jackets come
In brown, green and crimson suede.
stitched deliberately in self-tone, and
they fit very smoothly under the outer
coat.
Evening journal., 1915-06-25

WOOen Wors
highest grade woo that have been placed before the
Hard Finished Weaves
will also have the selection $500
mil
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26

Copies of New York papers reaching
Honolulu few days ago state that
Secretary Of the Navy Josephus Dam
iels will not recommend the sale or
abandonment by the government OF
the so-calIed useless" navy yards.
On the contrary, as will be disclos-
ed in his forthcoming annual report,
he viii urge that every yard now pos
sessed by the government be retained
and utilized to the fullest possible ex-
tent, either for manufacturing or re-
pairing purposes or for naval bases.
According to the plan Is formulated
by the department, the several navy
yards will be retained as follows. and
for the following reasons:
The Portsmouth yard win be utilized
for the manufacture Of the. lighter
electrical supplies. small boats and
equipage, and for The construction and
repair Of submarines
The Boston yard win be utilized for
rope making and as general repair
station for all kinds of vessels on the
Atlantic coast.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26
UNITED STATES CONSUMES MORE
Than ONE:FIFTHO Of ALL SUGAR

WASHINGTON, d. C.-More than
one-nfth Of the 40 billion pounds Of
sugar that represents the worlds pro-
duction last year was consumed In
the United States. The consumption
OF sugar in the United States excius-
I've Of its sugar-producing islands
during the Gscal year ending June SO.
1915. has been calculated BY the Blu
reau Of Foreign and Domestic Com
merce. Department Of Commerce. as
$3.50 million pounds, or IS pounds per
capita.
OF the sugar consumed IN this coun-
cry in 1914-15, 1871 million pounds
were produced on therpainland, Isl
million pounds in Hawaii. $50 million
pounds in Porto Rico 327 million
pounds in the Philippines. and the
remainder in foreign countries. Cuba,
the leading source Of our imported
sugar. sent as 47S5 million pounds in
the last fiscal year, that quantity be-
ing nearly four times IS much IS that
from Hawaii and eight times as much
as that from Porto Rico.
Beet sugar now leads cane sugar By
nearly one billion pounds In the year-s
" domestic product. having reversed
the conditions that obtained twenty
years ago. In 1895. for example, ac-|
cording to. the Statistical Abstract Of
the United States, the domestic sugar
product totaled approximately 776I
mi1liOn pounds, the share Of beet
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26
bigger ARMY AND NATIONAL
GUARD ARE ASKED BY LEAGUE

WASHINGTON, D. C.-Great prepa-
rations are being made for the Con-
ference on National Defense, which
will be held In Washington October
Al. Immediately following the Grand
Army OF the Republic encampment.
The Conference on National Defense,
to be held under auspices Of the Ma
tional Defense League. and In which
the Navy League, National Rifle As
sociation, and affiliated defense organi-
zation win participate. promises to be
as large gathering as the G. A. R.
encampment.
The Conference on National De
tense, which will be the first national
gathering ever held In the United
States to consider the problem of de-
lenses for the nation. viii, 1t Is ex.
pected. have an important bearing on
the action to be taken by Congress at
the next session regarding increases
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26
WANTS to- KEEP ALL
navy YARDS IN ACTIVE Use

The New York yard, the largest Of
all, is OF incaIcuIable military value
because Of its $so.OoO.o0O worth Of
equipment and its location near rail-
road lines and waterways and in the
center Of an enormous manufacturing
district
The Philadelphia yard represents an
expenditure of $30. 000. 900 and its aban.
donment has never been seriously con.
sidered.
The Washington yard manufactures
all kinds Of naval ordnance, including
aeroplane guns. fourteen inch guns.
and every sort Of ammunition.
The Puget Sound yard on the Paci5
fic coast Is considered to be located
strategically and Is being gradually
developed.
The Mare Island yard at San Fran
cisco, the object Of severe criticism.
is being used for the construction Of
oil ships and q supply ship. The
channel Is being deepened to admit
vessels Of any draft
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26
MILITIA OFFICERS Will BEGIVEN
AVIATION TRAINING BY VAR DEPT.

Secretary OF War Garrison has ad.
vised the Aero Club Of America that
militia officers can be trained In mill
tary aeronahfics at the United States
army school at San Diego. California.
At the expense Of the War Depart,
ment-
Secretary Garrison's letter 10 as fol
lows:
Mr.. Allan r. Hawley,
President Aero Club of America.
New York City.
my dear Mr.. Hawley:
Il have received your letter Of Sep.
tember In which you Invite my at
tention to the efforts that are being
made by q number Of our generous
and public-spirited citizens working
In cooperation with the Aero Club Of
America to promote efficiency and
uniformity IN the organization Of the
aviation corps Of the National Guard.
Il am myself deeply impressed with
the importance Of developing this ele-
ment Of the National defense and
greatly appreciate the generosity and
patriotism Of those who have express
ed desire TO contribute substantial
donations IN money to aid in this
work.
aThe complete organizational
scheme for the militia as planned by
the War Department calls for the for
nation ultimately Of u aero squad
rons, one for each militia division. but
owing to existing deficiencies in the
more fundamental requirements Of or
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26
GEORGIA LEADS
BAIILESHIPSN
YEARS GUNNERY

Percentages Of all kinds, ranging
from excellent 70 extremely low, made
By vessels In the Atlantic and Pacific
fleet IN battle efficiency and gunnery
tests. In the year which closed June
% last. are shown IN report issued
by the navy department reaching Ho-
nolulu this week.
For gunnery in the battleship class
the .. s. 8. Georgia comes FIRST with
. percentage Of S9.347. and, the u. S. s.
Minnesota last with percentage OF
1895. Other vessels In their order
are Texas. Wyoming. Michigan. Sara
toga. Kansas, New York, Delaware.
Colorado, New Hampshire, New Jer-
sey, Utah. Arkansas, Vermont, LOuisi-
ana, Rhode Island. South Carolina,
Florida and Nebraska.
In the torpedo class the Patterson
heads the gunnery list with S7.O75 per
cent, and the Balch Is bad tafl-ender
with 00.945. or the cruiser class the
Galveston leads with 94.172, and the
Raleigh comes last with 1914. In the
gunboat class the Mayfowef heads the
list with s9.O63 and the Annapolis is
last with 1857.
the following standings and merit
for battle efficiency are shown: In the
battleship class the Michigan leads
with 1854 and the Minnesota IL again
the tail-ender with 1856. other battle
ships tn order from the Michigan down
being - follows: Texas. Georgia. Kan
sas. New Hampshire, Delaware, New
Jersey, New York. wyoming. Utah, Ne.
braska, Arkansas. Vermont. South Car.
DINA. Florida. Colorado. Louisiana,
Rhode Island. The Patterson leads
again IN the torpedo class. with the
Trippe the tail-ender. For gunnery
the Trippe was next to the tail-ender.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26

More than 100000. 900 has been.
spent by the various states on $1,000
miles of state highways. About 1000
miles have been built within the last
two years. Only seven states have
no form OF state highway department.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26
DOCTOR TELLS or
ETHER's EFFECT ON
coLoREp WOMAN

CHICAGO. m-Dr. J.. w. King of
Bradford. Pa, recently told a number
of his colleagues at a meeting how
he turned negress' skin white as the
result Of an accident. He treated q
colored woman for lumbago by freez-
ing one leg from the hip down to the
ankle with ether.
After q week or SC" said DR.. King,
sshe returned to my office and said:
Doctor. the lumbago is gone. but
/ think | shall have to prosecute you
for mistreatment. You've done more
than you said you would
The leg had treated was perfect
" white and is so to this day"
Some OF the doctors present agreed
that ether freezing has been known
to remove the pigments in the skin,
but they say DR.. Kings case is unHs-
ual.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26
tssto,ooo is LOWEST
BID ON susMARINEs
Union Iron Works offers to Build rive
New y. s. Craft AZ THAT Rate.


WASHINGTON, D. C.-Bids for the
is coast defense Submarines appro-
priated for by the last Congress were
opened at the Navy Department to-
day. The lowest bidders we're the
Union Iron Works OF San Francisco,
which offered to build not less than
FIVE Of the submarines for 100000
each, and the Electric Torpedo Boat
Company Of Massachusetts,, which bid
$523,000 each for not less than I'VE.
Usually Congress- specifies partic-
ular type Of boat, but In giving out
the blanket specifications. covering
only the speed, radius OF action, arma-
ment. stability and propelling machin-
cry, the navy department has endeav-
ored to take advantage of any new
ideas which the constructing engineers
Of the shipbuilding plants might offer.
The completed plans are left to the
bidders. II these are unsatisfactory
the department may reject them.
These submarines will be of the
coast defense type and of $50 to 500
tons displacement. They win measure
less than 200 feet In length and will
have q speed of about III knots sub
merged. They will be armed with a
three-inch anti-aircraft gun and are ex-
pected to be able to remain away from,
their base at least 80 days.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26

! s,T1o roI.1l--, ~ ~ r--lII171. - 1ho
.,,,.. -. &. ...,,. go ~. ,,s,v -,
.sor - 80 ,o-,ssr go n.ss c -, orr. =, -
thai 81 the latter. ana this principle
h recocnired by Congress n the law
that has been enacted providine for
The attendance 81 ofAcers and enlist.
ed men OF the Orxnnired Militia at
the United States army service
schools. Under this law Il would Be-
.amss.ih,el sor afs,car. ana .,,i.,ad
men ~ che 0~,.ri,ea n;Iif,s ~ ~.
tend tend ana recs;ee in.-rarsisn = ne
IIrita6 ct,fes .rr,v .vIsfic,' 1870, a
Ssr No. csI,sc,,is p-nvs.io. g
.,-- -. -.....-....
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26

in the navy. army, coast defenses and
national guard. Every phase of the.
national defense is to be considered at
the conference.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1915-10-26

James C. Duggens of Aurora. Ind,
has q noted water spaniel which DUR
ing the last few months has caught
several hundred pounds Of fish by
diving for them and catching them I'm
his mouth.