davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21

~ all ought 70 be in mourning, but
It's a good thing for my business that
our public doesn't feel that way
Velvet figures largely among the
more digniied evening frocks. and In
the velvet models the tendency toward
greater warmth OF color Is noticeable.
We are sombre or pastel in day time
frocks, because Paris has not had the
heart TO see things otherwise, but We
are leaning toward more glowing eve-
ming colors by way Of restoring q
balance.
Numerous light red and deep pink
tones are seen in the opera crowd
coral. fame. %geranium and others
whose names only the manufacturer
remembers. but whose beauty every
woman recognizes, though compare
lively few women can ear them sue
cessfuliy.
one OF the frocks OF our large cat
was fashioned from supple velvet In
one OF these exquisite light tones. and
though red velvet sounds a Bit Ike a
stage queen. the gown. with It's sigh;
touches OF silver. was not spectacular
and wac very lovely. The deep rose
tones with relieving silver are ire
mendously popular too.
All black always has It's place IN
evening wear. and there s much of
u this winter, as there was last sea
SON: hut II usually takes the form ~
nlmy black tulle, Jet trimmed. Much
sold Jet palette r. used, but cloth -
! this sort has an AmaZoniau chorus
suggestion and many women prefer
/ Jet embroidery on net in bands or laces
or motifs, yelled by tul!e.
Often a CLEAN Of gold or silver re-
lieves the black, as in the short dance
srock OF our large group. whose pr.l-
cess body and upper skirt are Of plain
| black tulie yelling, black tuile ems
broldered In Jet and laid over a four-
dalton OF gold cloth. The lower part
| OF the skirt Is entirely OF d!agoua.
black tulle puflnss,
Opalescent paillettes are considerably
| beautiful in combination with lustrous
satins. as In the case OF the delicate
sea green satin Of our illustration.
The trained gown may have a train
, N one with the skirt, but is frequently
a mere separate drapery. often IN
rich silk or velvet, over a petticoat
OF frothy lace OF tulle. As for the
front OF the frock. II is usually short,
whatever the arrangement Of the tram,
The thing IL not graceful. but II II
modish. An artist like Cabot dares to
make some Of her trained models trail
oil around, and they are infinitely
more becoming to the average woman.
but the crowd will wear its trained
frocks short In front, for a time at
least.
: When II comes to the short dance
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21
I0DAY'S BEAUTY
SUGGESTIONS

Face powder simply covers up an
u,~attractive complexion and leaves
no lasting benefits. Those who have
tried a simple spurmax face lotion
find it much better, as it removes
skin discolorations, such as freckles
and tan, and makes the skin smooth,
white and velvety. This lotion is
made by di~ssolving four ounces OF
spurmax in one-half pint hot water,
then adding two teaspoonfuls glycer-
in. This complexion beautiier does
not rub off or show like powder, and
gives a more refined appearance. 1t
removes both shininess and sa.low-
ness, rapidly giving the skin a per-
manent healthy, youthful appear
ance.
An especially fine shampoo for
this weather can be had at triiing
expense by mssolving a teaspoonful
81 %canthrox in a cup OF hot water.
Pour slowly on scalp and massage
briskly. This creates a soothing,
cooling lather that dissolves and re-
moves all dandruff, excess oil and
dirt. Rinsing leaves the scalp spot
lessly clean, soft and plant, while
the hair takes or a glossy richness Ut
natural color, also II fufiness which
makes il seem very much heavier
than II IL. After n canthrOx shampoo
arranging the hair is u pleasHre.--
Idv.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21

frock there Is l-tle % say that has not
been SAID before. No; ,hat new models
are not constantly appearing and that
many Of them are % lovely but after
a.! the mode has bee so played with
for q year pas, tina the genuine novel
features IN !; ar necessarily few, ard
Of them TIE SrS has already hal
mu-h :, ,ay.
Then again meal plays an m
portanr role with silver far in the lead.
and gre7, quantities O.: silver lace are
used by 'rr designers og dance frocks.
The clever i-',e pink fr1Ck o: our
7mal! cut. for instance. has is e-;ire
bodice AMI .,s quaint Lille apron OF
silver lace while Only the simple full
skirt is Of pink satin.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21

paper dolls and The cos,.l..-
gray crepe paper. IT, p
either painted or "a ct oar .p
~ the right place on the csri
Where something meg. -
desired for a place c.rI d ~'r
doll dressed in gray AMI b.
arriful OF yellow grain con-
az each cover. the name ~ p
being written ON the -NI''
candy box SERVING as
the doll. These little g.
appropriate for the o-r.v..
the fancy ice cream toE--
attractive souvenirs Of
The combination ~ gray
car he carried out for The o..
decoration hy staining 3D.
ing wicker haske. witt ,
OF delicate French gray
ket is effectively Med ~
oranges or with yellow
NUNS. and yellow ribbons
10 each plate. at who
gray stained basket H'... 0
or lemon favored horN0's
A few OF the a"rtiur.,
will be found 20 cou..r"
chrysanthemums In carr
gray and yellow effect. ..
spray ~ pussy " How
narrow yellow s7'u r..',.
tist.c favor 20 attach 30
card.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21

evening frocks offered in tine shops.
there were the evening frocks in
making. hut the time for the wearing
OF all radiant plumaEe has only just
begun. and now ono will he able to tell
what has caught the fancy 81 our
women and what has been tossed into
the discard.
The first general impression Is q
pleasant one and has its element ~
surprise. OF course every one knew
that many trained evening gowns.
gowns Of a G!cpi,y contrasting agree
ably with the youthful frivolity OF the
ubiquitous dance frock. we're sponsored
by various author tat!ve French
houses at the beginning OF the season.
tina not only Worth. from who one
ran always expect mary models OF
that type. but other makers Legs
welded to grande toilette had shown a
growing enthusiasm for more for
ma.ity in evening wear, but just what
welcome the tendency would md
among women remained to be seen.
Evidently the designers psychology
was good. The HuNy short frocks are
pi1uant. charming, but they are
essentially youthful. and a host Of
women has accepted them, rebelling
the while. There have been other
women wise enough and independent
enough TO wear what vas becoming
rather than what was popular. but
unlucky womankind en- masse has itH
sheeplike characteristics and vii! fol-
low a fashion docilely through a gap
even In the thorniest of hedges.
90 We have had plump young ma
irons and elderly matrons. both plump
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21
THANKSGIVING DECORATIONS.

CONETHING out of the ordlnar;
y in the way OF Thanksgiving
decorations - a combination o!
gray and yellow. Gray is reminiscent
OF the P%uritan's garb and yellow suC-
gests a golden harvest. Some Of the
prettieSt OF this seasons dinner cards
show a gray clad Puritan maiden roll
ing a bright yellow pumpkin. or the
design may ID" "A Puritan youth aud
maiden c~trry.r- q pumpkin betweer
them. The figures in each case are
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21

the waist must OF necessity. on ,he
average figure. mean acknowledgment
Of the hips. but hips are not yet In
fashion. though breadth at the hip line
Is. II Is n thing to be wide at the
hip line because one has 10 and quite
a different thing to be wide OF hip line
because me chooses to be %. and the
the difference II obvious to even the
casual eye.
The ultra nodish oma may have
developed curves once more, but she
is still slender Of hips. though she may
choose TO dor panniers Of godeted
popiins or side hip draperies.
And. more. often than not. the bout.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21

fsnt side draper.es which are so much
In vogue begin their hare just below
the widest point Of the hip. widening
the skirt silhouette greatly. but not
10 any considerable extent adding to
the actual hip width. Fulness there
may be at The wa!stbard. but positive
boufYancy may be deferred.
This is not always the a Some
side skirt d%raperies stand out agrees
sively right from the waist line. but
the trained frock Of a formal sor, is
more likely to show some such line
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21
)PERA FOCUSES FEMININE INTEREST ON EVENING GOWN
Glance at the Boxes Shows Dignity Of the Sweeping Train UnruffIed
Ubiquitous Dance Frock-Crande Toilette Accepted as a Welcome
Relief From the Era of Inevitable Fluffiness

and lean. trottins about in frocks that
made them more than a little r.dlcu-
lous. and We have had women young
enough ana pretty enough to carry of
the short. full dance frock admirably.
wearing IL. though they would have
been far iovelier in longer lines and
trailing folds.
Perhaps dancing was responsible
Possibly. as some prophets say. the
Incoming tide Of ain means that the
dance mania In waning. But qui.c
probably women will merely separate
their dance frocks and their opera
frocks and accept the fact that there
Is a time for all things.
Leaving Psychology and prophecy
out Of the question. the fact remains
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-11-21
~ ELEANOR HoyT sRArNERD.

~ 18TH the beginning Of the
wv opera season evening frocXs
o 70 stage centre aWd
court TIE ca.cium light.
There have been uses for them
earlier in the season. but the canny
woman has been wearing her more ir-
FORMAL evening frocks. her left overs.
her made overs. and keeping the best
of her fine feathers for the time when
y winter seasnn would be in full
swing.
There were the imported models
SHOWN az the openings, there were the
Evening star., 1915-01-24
NEW GOLD AND
THE WARRING NATIONS

4 y the opinion of economists the pro-
y duction of new gold is one of the
factors which fights on the side of the
producing world lies beyond Germany,
and the allies fleets hold the seas
which this new treasure must cross.
Gold produced in the neutral coun-
tries will not be permitted to reach
Germany. Austria and Turkey while
the prepordcrance of the worlds new
gold is coming out of land under the
dominion of the allies.
In the last year for which complete
sta tistcs of gold production are avail
able. which was 1911, and the changes
in such statistics for 1914 would prob
ably be slight and immaterial, show
that Great Britain and her colonies
produced s2't .So9,soo of gold out of
the worlds total of S461, ,54o,10O Her
alies-Russi:i, France. Japan and the
colonies-produced a total OF $42.9S4,-
100. bringing the total for the powers
allied against Germany and Austria up
to $3l..19t, 800. or 6S.S per cent of the
worlds total. Germany produced only
Sc 800, and Austria Hungary S2,1S5,-
100.
The production of gold from the
mines of the United states during 1913
amounted to i,:99,1S4 hne ounces of
value of $S$.SS4,40U, which showed a
decline. roughly, of from $5,O00,000 to
$4,000 900 under the production dur
,ng the years 1912, 1911, 1910, 1909,
1905, 1907. 1906 and 1905. 1t was the
smallest year of gold production since
1905 vhen the value produced was
SSU,4s4 10u and the year before (I9O3)
tn. value of new American gold was
$7%, %,59l. 100.
The gold fields of the Transvaal are
the largest producers of gold, the value
of the metal taken from them in 1912,
which was a typical year. being $685.
production of the United States. West
australia is a large gold producer. it's
mines turning out value approx
mately equalng one-fourth the ro-
duct of the United States. The mines
of Russia produce about the same
value, or to be exact the gold output
Of Russia in 1912 was S22,199,0 900. The
gold value produced by the mines of
Canada was in 1912, S12,64S.000. The
duce about $25.O00,000 in gold. but war
has reduced this output.
Not as large ortion of the worlds
new gold goes into coinage as is popu-
larly supposed. The industrial con-
sumption of gold is heavy and has been
steadily growing. The United States
is the largest Industrial consumer in
gold, using in this way about $685.
100000 II year. while the industrial
consumption in Germany has been
about s2O.OOO,O00, the United Kingdom
900, 600. Switzerland, IS, ,000. 900. and
Austria Hungary and Russia about
$5,000,UO0 each. The annual industrial
consumption of gold in Egypt and Asia
is set down by statisticians as ap-
proximately s50,000.000.
Evening star., 1915-01-24
POULTRY SHOW ENDS.
Display at Arcade Big Success-List
of Prize Winners,

Large crowds attended the closing
da" yesterday of the National Capital
Poultry and Pigeon Associations show
at the Arcade, the hall being filled morn
ing. afternoon and night with thronSs
Of admirers of highly bred fowls.
Competent judges declared last night
that few poultry shows that have been
held in Washington have drawn to-
gether better displays in all classes.
many of the birds being qualified to
win at any of the big shows.
Many visitors to the show were dis
appointed by reason of the fact that
Water johnson, pitcher of the Wash
ington American League team. did not
exhibit his fancy white Orpingtons.
Had the famous pitcher sent his birds
TO the show they would have had hot
competition, as the white Orpingtons
shown by Edward Gibson of Pet
worth were as classy lot of birds as
are often seen in any show. Mr.. Glib
son captured first and second pens, be-
sides firstS and seconds on cocks,
cockerels, hens and pullets. while the
remaining awards were mainly to birds
of his breeding.
Before the show closed the Gibson
ze-winning pen had been sold to
one of the proprietors of Washington
newspaper, who also became the owner
OF the first cOckerel and two pullets that
Competition was keen in all classes
this being especially true of the sim
tsle-comb white Leghorns. This class
at the show that closed last night was
said to be the largest and best ever
seen AT a Washington show.
Officials of the association are already
making preliminary plans for next
years show, which. they say, is TO be
without question the best and most
comprehensive ever held in the National
Capital. Among those capturing hon
ors in the various classes were:
Earred Plymouth I.ucEs-L. y. Mallory nrst
aud SECOND cosNer-l bred hen: second cock. hrs,
et-kerei. tiisi pen; J. T. Uiconnor. iirst pule,
DrVd c'ck-rel: Rev. 4. !. Wolf. second and third
pli.let bred cock-r-!; Mcdowell a Dnsmore,
hfth cock. nrst heu. ifth cock-r-l Enoch ~.
i"hnson third cock. nth hen. fourth puilet: Il.
T.ck. second n-n secJrd puiirt; Levi. 4. Miller,
fourth hen: r.. :. Eowmsn. third len. IirS,
pullei: =. u. Tally. tourth roke.el; ". Il.
let; &. r. Smith. third pnller.
Ros-.1emb Whit leghorns An 10" e.. l..
Preusssr.
single -comb Brown G.eghorns-John II. Davis
A Son. second rocA, first second hen second
aud third pul"t: john ": Poole. third cock
nIst cock. third and fourth hen hrsi third and
NTH coekerel iirst and fourth puIlet
Rose-comb Brown Leghons--AIl 10 Ward W
Dssey.
Single comb Bur L-ghorns f. Tilp, frs,
"'ck, second hen. trst cocLerel. tfrst and second
bullets; Louis Z: Goodrich. hrsi hen, third
Preusser. fourth and nth puliet.
sinzle-comb Black Minoreas-An 10 d. p
smith.
Blue AndxIusians-Al to j. Earle Keefsuver
Iokenvciders-O. NJ. Link. hrst pen.
Anaconas--Rev. T.. L. Wolf. first cockerel
Silver Campines q. Johnson first cock
hr,t hen ffth cockerei second and fourth
Evening star., 1915-01-24

one year. Not all brahmas will do as
well as that. but it is a fact that the
females generally produce large num-
bers of brown eggs, and most of these
in winter.
These fowls are hardy, and do excep-
tionally we'll. either In confinement or
on free range. The hens will get
broody. sit, hatch and rear chicks. The
chicks are strong and vigorous, making &
rapid, rugged growth. but the pullets
do not lay until six months old Old
breeders claim that it actually takes
eighteen months for brahma male to
reach full size and complete develop
ment:
A small fence will keep them in their
yards, four feet high being ample. They
are most excellent for table poultry,
from broiler size to roasters, and are
especially desirable in some localities
for capons.
The. females weigh from eight to ten
pounds, males from ten to twelve
pounds, and many males will weigh
close to fourteen pounds.
Evening star., 1915-01-24
DURUM WHEAT, ,ONCE DISLIKED,
NOW FAVORED BY LLERSI
Copyright, 1918. by II. 7. wehetcrl

pened: the millers began to use Durum
wheat. Owing to an attack of rust"
and for other reasons, there was a
great shortage that year of the stan
dard wheats, and the millers found that
by mixing a liberal percentage of this
lower-priced hard wheat with the other
grades they could produce what would
pass for the standard -four. A decep-
ton was practiced in intent. but not in
fact, for it turned out that the mixture
produced flour better in quality than
before the Durum was used.
Then the millers awoke to the fact
that they ought to adapt their ma
chinery to the grinding of this new
hard grain. In the milling process the
wheat is passed over rollers. some
fleck where the old millstones used to
crush the kernels. Hard wheat is al
ways more difficult TO mill than the
other varieties. but the millers found
making some changes in their boiling
cloths they got excellent results even
with the deSpised Durum wheat. which
they were buying at the lower price.
Within the past years a new mill.
with a capacity of 5000 barrels a day.
has been completed IN Minneapolis
equipped for the sole purpose of max
ing Durum wheat into high-grade pat
ent -four and semolina, from which
macaroni is made.
More recently another singular thing
has happened-the bakers want flour
made of this wheat. They find that it
Is unnecessary to add sugar in making
bread from il, and this is an economy.
Also, they can make at least twenty
more loaves of bread from a barrel Of
flour made from Durum wheat, and the
will he n he n nd YI ,tt
This is not miracle. The fact is.
this grain contains So little moisture
as compared with other grades that a
barrel of it. when made into dough.
water equal to the weight of twenty
or more loaves of bread to make the
dough Of the right consistency.
The flour is rich beyond all others in
protein or muscle-making power and
gives better nutrition. The Italians
recognize this fact and insist that
macaroni for their use be made OF
Durum semolina. Largely owing to
the troubled condition of European af-
fairs and high ocean freight rates.
many additional macaroni factories
have sprung up over the whole coun-
try.
While owing to the failure of the
nillers to see the qualities of this
grain 4 foreign market at low prices
had to be found for it, and while it was
not to their interest to advertise its
excellence. the recognition of it's value
has been made and its price in COM
parison with other grades steadily ad-
vanced. until, January IL. the price of
number one wheat in the Minneapolis
market was s1.361s, while Durum
wheat of the same grade sold for sl.55.
The high prices for the wheat are so
recent that the farmers have had no
chance to respond to the demand, but it
is reasonable to expect that another
season the crop will be doubled. Mr..
Carleton is welcome guest at the
various boards of trade now.
Evening star., 1915-01-24
;(2@uLTRy

duction are stamped in strain. the
price of eggs, day-old chicks and stock
is double the price of the so-called
utility strain, because added character
lstlcs are harder to obtain than one or
Two OF the utility qualities, and here is
tne point on which SO many beginners
are at loss as to what to do In the
nrst place, the average beginner wishes
first of all eggs. and plenty of them to
supply the home table and to pay the
feed Dill and upkeep of the poultry
plant. be it large or small. This quality
can be found in any utility strain OF
almost any breed. But most people are
also lovers of the beautiful, and like
the flock to look fairly uniform. In
such a case. they must look further
than to just the plain utility breeder
who does not care if a leghorn's tail goes
straight up in the air, or if its comb is
as large as Il minorca's. or if the legs
are yellow or white, or the eyes fish
colored. and plumage as SO often seen
yellow, or whether the Plymouth Rock
has barring all over it's body. any color
but the proper one. or the Rhode Island
red has a lemon neck, red back and
saddle feathers another color. In this
case they will eventually wind up in
getting stock from the So-called and
much-abused fancier. who. it has been
ella imed. breeds only for feather and
not for utility, and who sometimes ad-
vocates that fine feathers and egg
production cannot be combined. In this
they are wrong, for the best feathered
fowl. Madison Square Garden win
ner, can be a hish-producing layer. and
at the same time have shape (the char
acteristic of the breed), and this has
been proved not only by breeders of
long, years of experience, but by the
different experiment stations and lay
ing contests as well.
Evening star., 1915-01-24
POULTRY YARD NOTES.

\ great many pou1trymen throughout
this section have complained during
the present winter that their hens have
not laid as they should: in fact, more
than one poultryman has disposed of
practically his entire flock because of
poor egg yield, sometimes running as
low as > or per cent. Frequently
this condition can be traced to some
such cause as lack of proper feed. in
sufficient green feed, etc If the hens
are not laying as they should. try Civ
ing them more green stuff, more beef
scrap and more cut green bone if pos
sible. Seven times out o. ten egg pro-
ducton can be largely increased by
feeding double the usual amount of green
Evening star., 1915-01-24

The king of all poultry the light
brahma. is the first product of the
American poultry fancier's skill.
These first specimens came into Amer
ica from India about 1876, and seven
years later specimens of the light
brahmas were exported to England. the
first of these going to the late Queen
Victoria. and they rapidly became pop-
ular on both sides of the Atlantic.
Their great size, strength and vigor.
prolific egg-laying qualities and value
as exceptionally fine table poultry en-
deared them to fanciers and CONNER
cial poultrymen alike.
There are several strains ,of light
brahmas in the New England states.
which have been exceptionally we'll
developed as layers, and almost the
first sensational two-hundred- egg hen
trecord proven by trap nestingo was a
light brahma. which laid 26S eggs in
Evening star., 1915-01-24
Gull LTlVATlON OF CRANBERRTEss

STRAWBERRIES in some form gro"
II in most temperate climates. but
" the best come from the United
States; and nearly all come from three
secticns-Cape Cod, Mass; southern Ne"
Jersey and southern Wisconsin.
The vines, which rarely exceed twelve
inches in height, are planted IN low
marshy places usually called "maashes
at Cape Cod and in New Jersey ano
'bogs'' in Wisconsin.
At Cape Cod. where they are most
carefully cultivated. cranberries form
the great agricultural product. and,
next to it's summer bOarders, the pest
paving crop of that whole section. In
fact. the smaller hotels andS the board
ing houses are compelled to close
about the time the "pickin' season
begins. because all their help deserts
for the sake Of the pay. better than
WAGES and tips, that they can earn in
the "maash." Parties come from miles
around, attracted not only by the good
pay they receive. but by the pleasure
they get from their life in little camps
during the season. An expert can
gather four bushels of berries a day
when the picking is good.
+
The vines, which are propa gate from
cuttings, have trailing slender stems
and evergreen leaves with pale rose
bud terminals. The blossoms appear
in June or July, and the berries ripen
in September and October Under
favorable conditions, with the best
methods of cultivation. an acre of land,
practically worthless for any other
purpose, will produce $500 worth of
eranberries, but this is exceptional, the
average yield being about sixty bushels
to the acre.
The vines thrive best when the
ground is kept free from weeds and
covered with coarse sand to tho depth
of several inches. The marsh must be
located near a plentiful supply OF water