Evening star., 1915-05-14
STYLES.
II.-FOR MEN.
' Frederic J. Haskin.

Had you noticed the high -shouIdered
way men have about them this sea-
SOM The upper parts of their persons
have bunched-up look and seem
closer to their ears than of old. They
| widen out from the waist upward, and
have quite a pusilistic appearance.
! Well. that is merely matter of
fashion. They wearing them that
| way this year. Many men who have
never before been high -shouldered
| have that appearance this spring, some
| of them being entirely unconscious of
1t. 1t is a trick of the tailors. The
effect is secured by moving the waist
line UP three or four inches. The
| public has been accustomed to the
tmovability Of the feminine equator,
which, of late, has been wandering
| from the armpits to the knees. Now
| the masculine zone of no latitude has
| begun to vacillate, and, in it's prelimt-
| nary travels. has found itself stranded
on the points of the shoulder blades
The tailors describe these close-cut
! suits as being built along natural
lines This description purports to
carry the idea that they fit the mascu-
line form glove. In fact, the
spring suits have been quite snug.
| Those who know the ways of tailors.
and who hold that a suit should have
a usefulness of more than one sea
son. have accepted this sartorial die
tate as an alarm Of the approach OF
time of change. And now that the
season is well along. your tailor will
tell you that In cuts the suits are
loosening up a Bit. AS a matter Of
fact, it is clothier's secret that mems
| outer garments are to be loose and
months q hold-over suit will be as
| conspicuouS as straw hat in the
| winter time.
| One other point Of especial distinc-
tion in these high-waisted coats is the
fact that they fasten with single
button. This is not only true of the
ordinary sack coat, but of the more
dressy cutaways. During the spring
acterized by very large collars and
| lapels that gave ones front a flare of
unusual dash. This effect is also to
pass. The new coats will have the long.
| narrow collar which affects a gentle
roll instead of lying fiat upon the
| chest.
| Before passing from the spring
| styles, which are now on the way to
the dis
ne-Buttoned Cutaway card. it
Is Noted for It's Shade. m.,i to
| look once lingeringly on the man Of
| fashion who goes forth this season for
a morning stroll on 9TH avenue. The
point of his apparel which first strikes
the observer is the long, snug, high
wasted. one-buttoned cutaway he
| wears. The particularly individual
thing about it is the lightness of the
gray material of which it Is made.
Men have rarely worn SO formal a gar
ment in SO light shade. The buttons
are cloth covered and oblong. The
trousers are much darker than the
| This man of fashion wears calfskin
boots with white cloth buttoned uppers.
There is touch of contrast again in
the polka dot tie and again in the
yellow chamoiS gloves. Altogether the
man of fashion has rarely taken so
prodigally to colors. The silk hat may
have the distinction Of somewhat
rakish bow in the back, distinctly
American depression from form which
has greatly shocked "deah old Lon
| non.''
| For the summer the whole scheme of
mems wear is dominated by the tropi-
cal cloth idea. Suits of Palm Beach
cloth have been growing in popularity
for several seasons until this year
| they. with following of imitators.
will be almost the only thing worn.
While garments of this material began
exclusively in the solid colors. mostly
tans, there Is marked development
| this year. The Palm Beach cloth is now
| made up In many varieties of stripes
and checks, and much nobbier effects
than of old are thus secured.
SILK pongee suits will also be ex-
tensively worn. mostly in tans. Then
there is the grass cloth, which is newer
than either of the others. 1t is made in
coarse woven and homespun effects
| True to it's name. this material goes in
| for greens and other vegeta BILE colors
All these materials lend themselves to
washing or dry cleaning.