The Washington herald., 1915-10-31
By MARGARET WADE.

4
With the trousseau for Presidents
versation for weeks. and the return from
every part of the country of women IA
nous for their toilets as well as their
manners their wit. and their place In
the social life of the nation. the ques-
ton Of dress appears to be more impor-
tant than ever.
II also appears to be subject to as
the Congressional Club. or who makes
the first call when the visiting ladies
are the wives Of the District judiciary
and the Lower House Of Congress. re-
spectively.
m MrI Norman Gait has already ac-
cumulated the large and varied stock
OF gowns that have been described as
purchased by her in every city that has
ever enjoyed her patronage from New
YORK 10 Richmond. she will enter on
her new position as mistress OF the
White House with a wardrobe no less
startling than that Of the spectacular
lady from Muncie. Ind, who came 10
washington q few years ago with feath-
ers In her hair and diamonds IN the
heels of her shoes, to show Washington
iust how gorgeous American fashions
| and American fashion leaders could be.
| II the Muncie standard could once De
firmly established
As the next mistress of the White
House has lived in Washington Tor
twenty years, Is a woman OF independent
! fortune, with a well-established reputa-
ton for good taste. IL Is perfectly safe
TO assume she will dress as suits her
position in the future just as she has
in the past
This next mistress of the White House.
whose pictures are NOW familiar objects IN
nearly every household in the land, and
whose expression and manner are latin
fully portrayed with the President in the
latest movies. looks her best in street
suits or in full evening dress. Fortunate
Ily the demitoilet and the so-called after
noon gowns are the least important
frocks in the wardrobe OF a Presidents
wife. who makes no informal calls. and
receives no informal visits. Being a
great walker, Mrs. Gait has naturally or
dered several coat suits while for church
or travelling she has two more elaborate
tailored suits, one dark gray. one mid
night blue. Both are in a semi-military
effect. and have hats and boots as part
OF the costume.
On the several occasions on which she
has appeared at the play since the an
nouncement OF her engagement to the
President. Mrs. Gait has appeared in
evening dress. usually in black net or
chiffon. Should she continue this custom
after she is mistress OF the White House.
the theaters would take on a real gala
appearance. as society has been ready
to adopt this fashion for years and only
needs a leader.
As she will be the hostess at no less
than four state dinner parties. and share
with the President the honors Of eight or
nine more when they will be entertained
l.. ,rrv 49, Of - "a hinef
evening gowns are the most important
item in the most important trousseau of
many seasons.
While as a widow white satin is i'm
possible. as q bridal toilet IL is OF first
Importance as a dinner gown. particular
ly when the satin Is embellished in the
gold and silver motifs of the Coudurier
fabrics. from which Mrs. Gait has or
dered at least one new gown. Another
gown not only offered but accepted as a
part OF the trousseaus Is one OF the Won
derful new brocades Of black background.
with the motifs OF gay-colorsd small
flowers entirely Of metal thread, and so
worked that they appear only when view
ed directly before the eye. the color ap-
pesring 10 fade away from any other
angle. leaving the rich black surface.
charming visitor from Peru. with
smart winters wardrobe. is Miss
Teresa Grsnda. who has arrived direct
from her South American home to pass
the winter with her uncle. the Peru
Wan Minister and Nine PeZet- at their
Legation on r street
Miss Granda, not Miss PeZet. as she
is frequently described from the Latin
fashion OF writing her name. Miss
Theresa Granda-y-Pezet." is the daugh-
ter of the minister's eldest sister. but
in coloring and manner bears more re-
semblance to her aunt and hostess. in
asmuch as both are fair, blue-eyed
and very modish in attire. Miss Gran
da has one of the newest and smartest
of tailored suits showing how the
vogue OF metal has worked it's way
into cloth as well as through silk
fabrics of every description. This is
'Liege." a new pinkish gray. in gabar-
dine finish with plain skirt widening
from the hips, but without fullness
and a hip length jacket. The metal
effect is on the jacket where fine silver
threads form what appears to be a
high waistcoat, also a very chic deco
ration in the back where the silver
rises in pyramidsl form from the hem
to a point slightly above the normal
waistline.
Miss Granda wears with this a small
velvet hat Of the same shade with high
AlBfetle showing Ine Llcge ana SILVER
tones. Other new colors. all right from
France. despite the war and its sorrows.
are Garibaldi red. which comes in its
best form in velvet. being dull but
very rich: ''Vertlierre." a dull ivy green
and a new Italian green. which is
copied from the green of the Italian
flag. There are also a whole line of
now blues from the Midnight shade.
which Mrs Norman Gait selected for
the first colored gown in which she
appeared after the announcement of
her engagement to the President of the
United States, to the delicate lining of
the white fur robe under which Miss
Ellen Wilson McAdoo takes her daily
airing in the White House gardens.
Miss Ellen Wilson McA doc. while the
fourth daughter of the Secretary of the
Treasury. is the first and only grand
daughter OF President Wilson. and
during her parents absence in the
White House. where she is a person of
great Importance.
Whatever the melancholy days of a
real cool November may produce in
the way of fashionable attire. the
past week or two. marked by return
ing maids or matrons. show the tall
leur costume of white and black. of
dark blue or brown and occasionally
of a new rich plum. to have first place
Tor street wear. There is also a very
marked preference for wide-rimmed
sailor hats. in new. materials and
sometimes in new lines. The small
hat for dress occasions may have all
the popularity it's sponsors claimed
for it when the millinery season