The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-01-31

IL
receiving more than usual at.
tcut.on Whatever the cause. the fact
remains: and the tailored street ana
sports skirts that are being offered at
prices exceedingly reasonable are ind
ing ready sales. as are the advance
models In lingerie b,ouses.
ON the whole. the skirts are practi-
cal and attractive. That some Of them
will hang In lamentable fashion. thanks
to the circular section to he found In
almost all Of the models. 5 "A certainty;
but the tailors are striving hard to over
come that difficulty and in firm stuffs
u,e accepted models are not likely to
prove very unrulv.
When 1t comes to tub skirts the
problem IL ~ it's worst. for the things
that m ordinary laundress can do to a
circular skirt breadth are dreadful be-
You'd description. but by dint of skill
fully inserting shirred fulncss plaits
and using nip yokes to mitigate the full
ness at the waist and hip lines, when
necessary. practical and modish models
FOR linen, cotton gabardinc, cotton
corduroy and other heavy tub skirt ma
terills are obtained.
Ju-. now the woollen skirts on the
new IlltS are lllNNltSNiHN wv '''''N''
rather more than cotton and linen
models. though for the southern sea -
son many skirts in the Latter materials
have been bought.
Covert in all its shades is a great
favorite for the separate walking and
sports skirts and because Of its firm
ness and finish is particularly sus-
cept,ble to satisfactory tailoring. Gabar-
dine i'm the biscuit and tan shades is
much used too. and indeed the craze
for this line Of coloring shows no
abatement In any province OF dress
though the avalanche of materials IN
trcse co'ors suggests that the fad VIII
become tiresome before the summer
season is we'll launched
Corduroy, tweed. frieze, cheviot
serge. all are offered in these same neu-
trail shades: but black and white ar
rangemcnts claim "a share of feminine
attention. and the dark blues and al
whites are always popular perennials
In the black and white mixtures every
Imaginable size of regular and broker
check appears. and some of the smartes
skirts shown for Southern and summer
wear have been made of white gabardin'
or Of the clarming but less practica
white broadcloth which lends itself 81
gracefully to fulness yet tailors admir-
ably
"A white serge with narrow lines o
black or dark brown or blue check!nl
the surface into eighth Of an incl
squares has found considerable fav0l
with the skirt makers. and there arr
black and white stripes among ~
skirt materials, though in this field thu
stripe does not figure so prominently a.
It does elsewhere. Invisible paids an'
stripes are liked and have French in
dorsement. and the mixed weeds ant
homespuns air, az always, faToTites toi
hard wear.
Pockets seem to be the cornerstone Of
the foundation upon which designers
are building skirts of the type unde
discussion and many a simple skirt o
semicrcular cut depends for its origi
nalty upon pockets Of unusual form OF
posing. This leads to extravaganza, ant
some Of the fantasies in pocket placini
and pocket flaps are absurd; but a
least one pocket cleverly placed thu
separate tailored skirt must have
Most o. the models are close fittinl
around the hips. save perhaps for SOM
shirred funess in the back, and wher
circular cut or gor.ng does not achiev
this a hip yoke does. one gooc mode
shown in tub stuffs has a hip yoke u
three overlapping sections, each run
ming around the hips. That is, the yok
Is formed of three bands running
around the figure, the upper one over
lapping the lower and each having
rounded end in front. The skirt
filed slightly to this yoke on side
and more across the back and IL open
i'm front with large button ana button
hole in the centre Of each scallop.
Another good model, pictured here,
for goods Of certain softness, III
original being in fine twill white serge
1t has a hip yoke effect given by scarf
OF the material, starting from Tn
skirt top at each side of the from
crossing and running down around tn
hips to button in the back.
Plated skirt models in which I'll
fulness is secured by inverted plait
stitched smoothly to hip yoke deptf
rather than by circular sections, ar
preferred by many women to the SEM
circular skirts, and there are some yer
graceful models of this character whlc
certainly have an advantage over IN
circular skirts in the matter of hangn
evenly. Soft box pldits, not 100 VIA
running all the way to the waist /
front, are often combined with side an
back hip yokes, and front and side hi
yokes are used with shirred backs, Will
IN a good many models the greatest fu
ness or flare is massed at the side
wailc back and front hang compare
lively straight.
one sees, too, c.everly tailored skirt
smooth fitting around the hips an
given very ample flare by the insertio
of godet sections like inverted VS., BE-
low the hip line at each side of fror
and back; but, on the whole, the Sc
we're skirt, quite short, close httin
around the hips, cut partly circular 5
that IT will flare toward the bottom AN
ornamented by patch or slit pockets,
the usual thing Some Of the mode
ere cut with the waist line very higl
but the majority end Just IA little aboN
the normal waist lire, and OCCASIONAL
a good looking ready made skirt Is pre-
vidcd with a belt partly of the matters
but trimmed with leather in the front ,
WITH a soft rush grdlc of the matters
buttoning with several buttons in frQr.
Pain skirts of tweed. homcspun. a,
that have not circular flare or plat
though cut with more fulncss than Il