davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

revolted at the excessive originality of
Paris gowns. was 1t not because one OF
our n-dressmakers-and not the
least-went to seek inspiration at Mu-
mich and Noremburg, obtaining strik-
ing effects at the expense of traditional
French taste?"
Now you know why Charles eyes
CLEAN red. Why Henri pales and
drops his scissors.
When. recently. I obtained fur de-
signs from the rue de la Paix house of
Grunwaldt. the son, Vladimir. with
timid politeness, asked me for list of
the American papers to which 1 would
send them.
"A new rule of the Syndicate de la
Couture" he murmured.
Impossible l replied. professional
secret
He did not insist. but trusted me.
I went to see Worth. secretary Of the
Couture Paris Dressmakers' Associa-
tom, which includes milliners and furs.
Jean Philippe Worth. son of the great
Scotchman. has grown up completely
French. grand seigneur. grayish point
ed beard. simply dressed, Immaculate.
He is also president of Charles and
I'VE are favoring La Gazette du Bon
Ton, = rue de fEchelle. Paris" said
Worth, because it is under our control.
We are charmed to communicate mod
,Ls;t to american lean, papers They inform
American firms buy Paris models for
the American trade. 1t is perfect
There is no objection to Germans and
Austrians doing the same-for their
own populations. Let them publish their
Partisan designs, sell their Partisan
gowns and hats over the world-pro-
vided they date them Berlin, Vienna.
Cassel But they must stop dating
Jean Philippe is frank, open, very
kindly.
TT is intolerable that they should set
up peside US. IN our own city. call
import their own workmen. force the
note, and. little by little falsify French
taste and reputation"
I gathered from Worth that the great
movement of modest Paris" styles, the
return to simplicity and traditional
French TASTE" has his firm approval.
In fact. they are tumblfng over each
other. 1t is spontaneous. 1t Is in the
air. The eloquent call Of Cardinal
Annette. Archbishop of Paris, to avoid
pagan styles" dod not start 1t, but con-
firms it. The call is pasted up on every
Paris church door.
Short skirts. open blouses crazy full
ness and fiouncing. in truth, were the
hasty improvisings of an intense war
period-when half the best designers
were at the front and the remainder in
fever.
The true mode of Paris is now only
appearing.
This idea was confirmed by Lucien
Vogel. editor Of La Gazette du Bon Ton.
to whom Jean Philippe sent me-
At the Gazette offices / met Philippe
Ortiz, American representative of the
Protective Association of French Dress.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25
Stereoscopic SURVEYING.

HERE is in use a stereoscopic method
of Photographic surveying. Photo
graphs are taken at two points with
surveying camera, the plates being ex-
posed in the vertical plane passing through
both stations. The developed plates, or
positives from them, being then placed
in microscopic measuring machine that
combines the pictures. brief calculation
gives the exact position of any desired
point. The effective range of the instru-
ment is put at about five miles. and the
method is said to be of particular advan-
tage in mapping large areas Of mountain
GUS country.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

The truth is that the inadequatcy OF
men in this branch of the army has
been for many years shocking IN
stance of American carelessness. Not
adequate to man the continental de-
lenses. but the nation actually has
spent millions of dollars for defenses
in Panama and the foreign possessions
without adding single man to the
strength for garrisoning the works.
When all the foreign defenSes have
been garrisoned there will be only
"one-third of one relief left for the
continental defenses. That means that
even without casualties there viii not
be enough men to relieve those who
become worn out under the intense
strain of a modern bomba rdment. 1t
means that il hostile feet is deter
mined and IS willing to expend the
ammunition and guns and risk few
ships. it can wear out the garrisons in
forty eight hours merely by incessant
successive attacks, even if its fire does
not injure single gun
The aggregate enlisted strength of
regulars needed to garrison the harbor
artillery as $4,000. The actual number
available was 1853 in November, 1914
The enlisted strength of regulars re-
CURED to man the defenses in foreign
to be completed, was 5000. and the &C
tual number there was $500.
There are now provided about one
fourth OF the officers and one-ha1f the
our primary home defenses,' said the
chief of coast artillery near the end of
last year.
The amount of ammunition available
in the harbor defenses or provided for
by appropriations up to November 1914
was: For rif1ed guns. 70 per cent of the
allowance fixed by the national defense
board; for mortars. so per cent of the
requirements.
Several harbor defense conn lands
have received standard f1re-control
system. The fre-control installation Of
the territorial defenses. viewed as
whole. is 40 per cent incomplete
The chief of coast artillery reported last
all the defenses was only onehalf COM
pleted The deficiencies in the matter
Of fre-control and searchlights, said
the chief of staff in his last report,
which was sent to Congress by the
Secretary of War. ARE of the most
serious character. As matter of fact,
proper fire. control and searchlight in
stallation is maintained in only limit
ed number of f1rst-class defense areas,
the remainder Of the fre-control sys-
tenn and searchlight equipment being
deficient or improviSed.
As distinct from forces such as the
coast artillery, which is fixed or ter
ritorialized" army, the mobile army is
the only part of the army that is NOV
able. But moving an army means
far more than merely setting it in mo-
ton. 1t is not enough that the men are
mobile. If it simply were matter of
moving, the mobile army of the United
States today could be moved by the
organization of any great American
passenger railroad with less trouble
than often is encountered in moving
metropolitan holiday rush.
A mobile army must be capable of
being moved as an army. 1t must be in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

on-the- Main. publishes 'Chic de Paris
and LES Modes de Paris"
The house of Backwith Al Lowen-
gasse. Vienna. publishes la Mode Pa
risienne," Album Blouses nouvelles du
Chic Parisien'." La Revue Parisienne."
lie Carnival de Paris" La Revue des
Chapeaux," La Saison Parisienne." lie
Grand Luxe Parisien." La Parisienne
elegante," Les Toilettes Parisiennes.'
lie Govt. a Paris" La Jeunesse Pa
risienne." Les Jupes Parisiennes," and
Robes d'interieur.'
BY a popularity Of French customs.
which admits all publications in
French language duty free, the German
and Austrian fashion. papers came to
Paris in bulk. and competed with the
home article, In. Paris and abroad. Paris
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

-7HE scores of complex problem!
that are presented to the com
manders and subcommander!
4 i'm harbor defense work are
too complex for description here
Thick books have been written about
them. 4 single example will serve te
indicate the closeness of computation
demanded for putting a coast battery
into effective action
When twelve-inch mortar fires. its
projectile ascends first toward the sky
mounting so high that il disappears
from sight. Then it curves. and de-
scends to plunge on its mark. If the
range is maximum the projectiie will
he in the air full minute. In that
one minute ship nareuvering at
fourteen knots an hour will have
moved 1856 feet; that is. a dread
naught of the Oklahoma type, which is
SIS feet long, will be more than twice
it's length from it's original position
Thus the coast artillerist actually must
fire at a spot that the ship has not ye,
reached when he discharges his
weapon.
OF course. most of this difficult and
highly scientific work falls on the off
GERS and not on the men. But the coast
artillery is short of officers. even I'M
der the peace organiza ton. which in
turn is far short of the strength that
actually would be needed in war. At
the minimum computation made by the
chief of coast artillery the shortage in
officers was S56 in 1914. The shortage
is greater now, because men have been
withdrawn from the continental de-
lenses to man the Panama. Hawaii and
Philippine forks.
Among the enlisted force. also. there
is urgent necessity for highly special
ICED men. such as electrician sergeants,
master gunners. master electricians
and men trained expressly for cable
work, searchlight operation and the
handling of submarine mines.
So short is the coast artillery of men
that the army has been unable to form
anything like even small fairly per-
manent force of this class of soldiers.
OF fact. even to act as mere garrisons
for the defense system. AS the chief
Of coast artillery said in his last re-
port. unless provision is made in the
near future for additional coast artil-
1ery. 1t will be necessary to reduce the
Earrisons to mere caretaker detach-
ments at some of the defenses, includ-
ing Portsmouth. Delaware, Charleston.
'tomsc. Tampa. Columbia. Cape Fear
and Mobile
The garrsons in some of the defenses
already are little except such cake
taker attachments. Thus one COM
pany 600 men theoretically, but not
actually was the force last autumn to
hold Fort Rodman. which is supposed
to defend Buzzards bay and the rich
manufacturing district of Massachu-
sets behind 1T. Even the immensely
important and immensely extensive
works defending the eastern entrance
to New York city had only six compa-
mics, which. under the present main
tanned strength, numbered less than
500 men.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

was their chief center of distribu-
ton
They were not clumsy limitations.
Nine. Camille Duguet, the eminent fash
ion specialist, says that they were las
well posted in Partisan elegance as our
own publications"
The fault was of certain great Paris
style makers.
Il would not accuse German indus
trial spying so much" she says. las our
deplorable French tendency to favor
foreigners. have aften noted with
regret the willingness of our great
dressmakers to communicate their lat
est models to fashion papers of Berlin,
Vienna and New York. while often re-
. fusing equal Recommendation to French
papers"
They even had a Germanizing in
f1uence.
Certain houses went further. IT.. at
= times, your own masculine good sense
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

makers american branch of the
Couturey. He had just arrived from
New York.
Il laugh" said Ortiz Paris is all
right. There will be two modes, that
of Paris and the other. Any one can
have the other who wants it, but we
rather object to counterfeiting French
labels
Ortiz looks like an American foot ball
Vogel looks like a well dressed Paris
poet.
II laugh" said the New York French
man. 1T Is ridiculous that the Paris
fashion world should be called upon to
defend itself Any one who could dream
of taking away the supremacy of Paris
would be an utter fool
I asked him what about those fashion
papers.
They were due to the carelessness of
certain houses" he said. Il am sure
that from now on it will not be the
same What 1 am trying to do is to
get Paris dressmakers and modistes to
extend their American interests. to adj
vertise extensively and collectively
Ortiz explained:
The name of every Paris house
even the greatest-which has done
business on it's reputation of the past
should be placed before the American
public just as if it were a new
beginner" - -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

not learn it on paper They learned
it by trying it in time of peace. by
finding out what could be done and
what could not be done.
They and their subordinates learned
1t in the great peace maneuvers that
the European nations have held as
matter of course. There never has
been in the United States anything
even approximating these enormous
tests. which is all that the maneuvers
are. Where American officers have
handled regiments. the European Off
GERS have seen. every few years. not
mere brigades or divisions. but all the
army corps of their countries set into
motion under stern supervision that
admitted no excuse for the breaking
down of commissariat, ammunition sup
ply or engineering material or for the
failure to deliver complete army or
CARNATIONS ready to fight at the des-
tined place at not only designated
hour but sometimes actually within
a period set by hours and minutes.
Consequently. the officers of Europe
know. from doing it. scores of things
that our own officers known perfectly
we'll from intelligent study. but never
have had the opportunity to see or try.
Ludicrously small as the mobile army
Of the United States is. the whole army
never has been together in one time
and place in all it's history.
Everybody In the United States would
that the naval students in Annapolis
be ordered by law to confine their prac-
tfce to rowboats: that naval lieuten-
ants be limited to commanding tug
boats: that captains be placed In charge
Of little gunboats only, and that COM
modores and admirals be limited to
single-ship commands. all on the I'M
derstanding that on the outbreak of
war these men shall at once take COM
mand of dreadnaught fleets.
In he r,
should add that until war occurs none
Of these officers shall have the oppor-
tunfty of seeing a dreadnaught fleet as
sembled. no doubt. the country would
demand that the congressman be in
termed In lunatic asylum as soon as
possible. Yet this Is what the country
and Congress Is expecting of its West
Point men.
When the West Point cadet Is grad
uated he must go to an army post, if
he Is to be assigned to the command
Of any men at all, for there are no
regular. soldiers stationed regularly
anywhere except in army posts. Since
there are forty-nine such posts with
only 10000 men to garrison them, it
can be computed easily that the posts
cannot possibly average more than 600
men each. Transfers and other ext
gencies may at times leave certain
posts with less than 100 men in them.
Therefore, after he leaves West
Point. the young officer enters active
service under conditions that actually
assemble a lesser number of men for
drill or maneuvers than he saw at
West Point, which has more than 500
students. Captains and lieutenants
command skeleton companies and
these do not even assemble with other
companies of their own regiment, be-
cause the army posts force wide dis
tribution.
Generals Of brigades cannot hope to
have a brigade assembled anywhere ex-
cept by fortunate chance. There never
has been genuine army division as
sembled in the United States in time
Of peace. The troops that were sent
to Cuba were far from being . division
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

bring down piece of sparterie. a scrap
of ottoman. and one renoncule.'
Charles, whitemoustached artiZan,
viewed me with suspicion. as German
spy. He would not let the rich and
wonderful artificial flower out of his
hand II made it," he grunted-kind of
double kings cup. shaded crimson ION
the hat it was sand colored.) more vel
vety than velvet, feshy. living. with it's
petals of thin kid. He took back his scrap
Of sparterie. Grunting, he returned to his
locked halls. where thirty women make
exclusive" flowers, motifs and "fancies."
Miss continued:
Hat. brim blue taffetas, crown blue
velvet. ornamented with taffeta
cocarde like the brim White velvet
toque. bordered with white satin, orna-
mented with an art aigrette, and fixed
with pearl-white motif. Seal-colored
satin toQue, ornamented with art
aigrette paddles
/ begged her to stop the paddles 4
moment. What are art aigrettes?
Here we are deep in exclusiveness-
there are limitations that cost as dear
az originals. Since the American gov
eminent protects aigret- herons, Paris
modistes ditto.
NO baby heron mourns it's mamma
or papa on account of art aigrettes,
said Miss. Two honest fowl have
volunteered name the ostrich and
tail feathers on the lawn. The flmy
aigrette. which makes water dripping
from the paddle 10 thinned peacock"
She tried to tell me how they fne the
= feathers down with razor blades. and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

such condition and organization that it
can be delivered at given place in a
given time with all it's component parts
its infantry, it's cavalry, it's artillery,
it's signal, engineer and sanitary corps,
with all their weapons. ammunition,
horses, mules, wagons, ambulances.
clothing, bedding. tentage. supply
trains, telegraph and telephone outfits.
railroad building. bridge-building and
other engineering outfits: mining ma
terial, observation balloons and gas con-
tanners, aeroplanes and gasoline. sur
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

in numbers. and their formal ton only
approximated a division. The skeleton
army of peace remained a skeleton d.
vision in war. and some of the parts
were missing from the skeleton.
The divisions that have been assem-
bled on the Texas border during the
past few years of disorder were not
divisions numerically. and despite all
the intentions and efforts of the COM
manders to give them genuine divi-
sional organization II was necessary
to draw on the coast artillery for some
of the component parts.
Part of this was due to the insiE-
niflcant size of the army available
within our own borders. But greater
part of II was due to the army post
system.
There never has been dispute OF the
fact that the officers have done their
best with the fragments under their
charge. Foreign military men who
smile at the American army" testify
for the ability Of the American army
officer. 1t was not boasting when
Lindley NJ. Garrison, Secretary OF War.
at the end of last November's report.
which was filled with blunt statements
of our gross weakness. said that ''our
small army is unquestionably in as ex-
cellent condition as any similar NUM-
Der of men in any other military estab-
lishment in the world. Were II not Tor
a desire to avoid invidious compari-
sons, l should say that man for man IT
is better than any similar existing es-
Establishment in the world. do not be-
lieve that any one will dispute the
been in better condition than 1t Is to.
day, from the most recently enlisted
man up to the highest officers"
If the need should come tomorrow
these officers would be able. without
doubt to entrain these excellent en-
listed men at the various posts in rec
ord time. They would deliver them
selves, without doubt, at the point OF
mobilization in perfect condition. with
all their equipment so far as it is avail
able in the posts. But what will hap
pen when each Of these perfect, isolated
units arrives?
Each individual fragment, so well
trained to take care of itself as a unit.
must Immediately become part Of
mass which 1t never has met. Add to
this picture the arrival of militia
organizations coming from different
states, each of which has had its own
ideas as to organization and supply
or none at all. Surely the scene can be
visualized by any citizen. even if he
never touched a gun in his life.
1t will be like dumping In one huge,
mixed-up, swiftly mounting heap all
the parts Of a mammoth and imm ensely
complicated engine to be assembled in
deadly haste by men who never in their
lives have tried to assemble such an
engine and who never have even seen
such an engine completely assembled
and working.
Copyright, 1915, by J. ". Muller)
Next Sundays article will tell Of the
need for divisional organization In the
army.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

are that every man on the firing line
shall have instantly what he wants.
If the army is short 10000 rations,
or cartridges or bandages in the hour
of the fight. 1t will not be of any avail
to know that 100000 rations, cart
ridges or bandages will arrive the next
week.
The equipment must be there. The
infantry must have the field artillery
with 1t. big enough and supplied well
enough. to protect it and save 1t from
being pounded helplessly to bits by
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

Sterling He The Sunday Stars Correspondent Paris Tells of German Enterprise
CaptaNew Precautions Modes
Berlin Wma-New Hats With Padd and RoseThe
Dltv
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

the enemy. The cavalry must be there.
the scouts must be there, the aero
planes must help the scouts and the
artillery.
1t is such work that the great gen.
erals in the present war-Joffre. Hin
denburg, Grand Duke Nicholas and
Mackensen-have been doing. not as a
part Of their strategy but as a mere
incidental business of war. They did
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

gical instruments. medicines. field
kitchens. forage, even lanterns.
A huge part of this material must
be actually with the moving army
ready to be sent ahead of it to facili-
tate it's operations, or with 1t to serve
the army on the firing line. The rest
must be within reach-not going to
arrive" but actually on the line of
supply.
All the supplies that may and will
be rushed to it within a few days will
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

remember a Chicago dressmaker on
her first trip to Paris. She bought up
Immediately a quantity of fashion pa
pers from the boulevard stands, to
obtain a general idea" Alexander Kahn.
thing. being present, turned them over.
one by one. and laid them in two piles
Pointing to the biggest pile. he said:
You know, these are all gotten up
in Germany.
'Jmpossible," said the Chicago dress
maker: look. they're issued from their
Paris offices. See here, on the front
page, Galerie Vienne, Paris: and, see
here-the tricolor French flag. the arms
of the Paris municipality. and the Of
fees. rue Cherche-Midi. Paris. And
here. again. the mention printed in
Paris" Indeed, all had the mention
printed in Paris"
Nevertheless" said Kahn, they
are printed in Germany or Austria"
And he was right. The house Of Fin
kelsteln. II Witthauergasse, Vienna.
publishes lie Grand Chic" La Cou-
ture Parisienne," Tailor Made" La
Grande CORRECTION" lie Chapeau
CONNECTION Parisienne." La Tailleuse
de Paris" and Album de Blouses LIE
The house of Gustav Lyon. Leipzig
erstrasse. Berlin, publishes L'Ideal
Parisien,' Les Noodles Parisiens.
Parisienne," Les Biouses Artistiques,"
la Mode Artistique" and "chapeaux
Modernes."
The house of MARTENS Of Frankfort
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25

speciai Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS. July is. 1915
>>C 7ISS" at Lewis was de
CS INMI scribing hats. Every
UNII fashionable woman knows
SVS Miss blond, elegant. care
worn. enthroned by the outer door. at
the great man milliner's.
Velvet marquise hat. night blue.
ornamented with sand colored kid
yoses. OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES made of q
material like suede gloves. Then cor
fecting)-No. not roses-renoncules.
They're newer"
.Amazone hat of sand colored otto
make it peau de sole. kind of faille,
ornamented withholding.
i stared.
Really" sad. do fashionable wom-
en- permit mill{ners of Paris and Lon
don to sell them. retail. covered with
a little velvet or ottoman, simple hat
forms from the wholesalers"
Miss smiled superior. The fact came
out-a new precaution of great Paris
millinsrs to keep exclusive. They
make their own hat forms. all except
straws One of these days they'll make
straws also.
Try to buy that ottoman FORM. said
Miss 1T don't exist. Our workers wet
the esparto-matting. mold II round a
wooden form carved right here. hx 1t.
When dry. they stretch and hx the
ottoman round it. Tell Charles to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-25
II.
1


The means is advertising
In France the system is different 1
have got to make them understand In
France. when firm, by excellent
work, has made a reputation it don't
need to advertise or get in touch with
the public. 1t is remembered. But in
America name means nothing. You
may be king or queen, but unless YOU
can put your name as king or queen
before the public all the time no one
will know or care that you are king
or queen"
The French boy seems to have caught
It.
He has only been twenty years in
New York.
STERLING HELLO