davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18

at the Horse Show this week, Is of
black gabardine in Russian coat style,
with collar, cuffs and cOat-border of
black lynx. The coat "nips" In at the
beltline to show a slender waist and
flares out, very full. to the knee where
1t is bordered with the rich black
lynx. Cuffs of the Same fur reach
part way to the elbow and the high
muller collar Is also of lynx. A ripple
skirt Of the black gabardine falls to
the ankles-for mourning costumes
which must have dignity. are not worn
as short in the skirt as some other
costumes just now. A mourning frock
possessed by the same woman and In
tended for first wear during Horse
Show week. vsyof black chiffon cloth.
pleated into a knee-length tunic over
a skirt of black faille silk. The chif-
fon~ tunic has hem and two trim
ming bands of black broadcloth. and
over the chiffon bodice is a sleeveless
bolero of the broadcloth latticed over
with black soutache The long sleeves
of black chiffon have flare cuffs of
soutached black broadcloth: the very
high, choker collar Is Of black faille
silk with a frill Of chiffon at the back.
With this stunning mourning frock
will be worn knee-length seal coat.
collared and cuffed with black lynx
Sealskin is considered correct mourn
ing when suitably lined and trimmed
with black fur.
Tailleurs or Pale Gray Tho Vogue.
There Is a veritable craze for gray
this year and all shades come under
Fashions approval, from the faintest
pearl gray to deep elephant or gun
metal grays. or mist gray broadcloth
is the unusual little walking suit-or
rather promenading suit--pictured.
This tailleur has been built purposely
for wear at Horse Show week and
without doubt 1t will cause Its own
pleasing little sensation on the prom
enadc. For 1t has q fitted basquei
Just such a basque as they wore" In,
say 1889, with darts, small armholes,
under-arm seams and buttons and but
tonholes down the front. And below
the waistllne the basque flares into a
godet frill over the hips. In fact this
costume gives special emphasis to hips
and because Of this the waistline ap-
pears successfully tiny and trim. The
skirt has most of its gathers at the
not escape the observant eye. The
sleeves reach just below the elbow
and are heightened little by fiaring
bcll-cuffs lined with white satin, like
the basque Very smart gloves of
white kid with gauntlet tops and black
stitching. meet the bell coat-sleeves.
This dainty pale gray suit is trimmed
with kolinsky, the fur band at the hips
being an interesting new feature
Another stunning promenade cos
, tune is shown in the coat Of smoke
} gray gloveskin trimmed lavishly with
beaver Leather coats are the rage
} in Paris, tho first one having been
; brought out by Paquin at the fall
} opening. This model Ia not actually
, of leather but of the new cloth oil
coating called gloveskin. which has q
dull, suede-like finish. The lines are
r tremendously smart, all the fullness
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18

by lifted lorgnette, takes no cognizance
of concentrated eyes on the prom
enade below If by chance it does
happen to glance downward and
catches one of the concentrated eyes,
its mien is more impressive and uncon-
scious than ever.
Many Smart Mourning Costumes This
Year.
Several Of New Yorks most prom
inent families are in mourning this
season and some authoritative mourn
ing costumes will undoubtedly reveal
themselves at the Horse Show, during
the Afternoon session. At this time of
day tailored apparel is the rule; few
stunning frocks may be seem in the
boxes on women who have come from
fashionable luncheons, but usually
these frocks are dark in color and
have the tailored suggestion. In the
afternoon. also society chooses to use
the promenade, and on the promenade
esNcially. are beautiful talleurs to be
observed. In the evening, women clad
In decollete gowns keep to the boxes,
and If short trip is to be made on the
promenade, wrap is donned--as one
would don u wrap for out doors.
The Horse Show Is warmed to the
sitting temperature of all other New
York interiors, but 1t would not be
wrapless.
A very good looking mourning cos
tume which will undoubtedly appear
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18
Furs Make Their Entry, Whatever the Weather
Around the Tanbark Afternoon and Evening
Costumes in Interesting Display Gorgeous
Evening Wrapsa Feature Of the Occasion

~HE social season has begun.
With the opening of the Horse
Show on November 6th-almost
- two weeks earlier than this event
has been accustomed to occur-the
pendulum of the season has been set
in full swing; and since Easter this
year will not arrive until very late in
April. there is promise of very long
winter of gaiety.
Afternoon AS Well As Evening
Costumes.
There is double opportunity for
studying styles at the Horse Show, for
both afternoon costumes and evening
costumes are on view. What to wear
and how to wear it. Is ably demon
strated and though society attends
through interest In the events that
have to do with horsemanship, sar-
torial interest pays for three-fourths
Afternoon and evening, the promenade
between tanbark and boxes Is damned
with a moving throng whose heads are
turned continuously toward the left
and the boxes-and spasmodically to-
ward the right-and the ring. What
the notables are wearing, what they
are doing, what they seem to be say
ing, has an evidently absorbing inter
est for the spectators just below.
AS for society, il sees what 1t came
to see and to applaud-the Horse
Show. And 1t sees nothing else. Its
unconscious gaze. aided or unaided
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18

fans dating back Il score Of years have
become very valuable because their
hand painted designs. signed with the
artists name, are the work of men
who have become famous since the
long-ago student days when fans were
decorated TO keep the wolf from the
studio door Most of the finest fans
come from France where whole fam
lilies have been fan makers for genera
tons, the pretty trade being handed
down from father to son.
The beaded fan is Il beautiful cX-
ample of the best French fan making
art. The cover of gray gdu2e, hand
embroidered with cut steel beads, Is
mounted on delicate carved wood
sticks decorated in silver and rose. In
this picture, also, is shown a modern
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18

that day, and many a Court secret
was revealed by the futter of little
fan; many warning given in the same
way; many a message conveyed.
In the Victorian era fans came into
their own again. A belle of the fifties
could talk as well with her fan as n
deaf and dumb woman can with her
fingers. Tho fan expressed all my
lady of the down dropped, meekly
feminine glance, did not say with her
lips. 1t nuttered, 1t swayed. it
quiverod, it snapped open; it was laid,
outspread, upon an aGitated bosom; it
was tapped impatlently. upon little
gloved palm; it swirled through the
air In an airy unconcern, expressing
succintly the early Victorian for Il
should worry" Even when woman's
heart was broken and sobs made the
use of a handkerchief imperative, the
mouchoir was applied with one hand
and the inevitable fan tiuttered agita-
ton from the other. And this was
not affectation-it was instinct; 50
closely was the fan knit with the warp
and wool of early Victorian behavior.
When fans are fashionable, they are
always more or less Of an affectation
Just as. parasols are; for the value
of the fan as a beauty-adju nct Is so
much greater than its actual useful
ness, that 1t Is carried along whether
1t will be needed or not. There are
places where fans are really indispens-
able. however; one place is in the ball
room-especially In these days of
strenuous dances which would soon
give milady n shiny nose did not a
breezy fan keep her flushed visage dry
and cool.
But this season fans are fashionable
and they are produced everywhere
at the theatre, in the restaurants. in
the shops; at concerts and at church.
one even sees them fiuttering in taxi
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18
A JACK HORNER FOR THE
BRIDES "SHOWER"
l. a deep pudding dish

~ILL deep pudding dish--a blue
and white enamel one will do
beautifully with clean white
rice: and bury in the rice dozen or SO
small kitchen conveniences. each
wrapped in tissue paper and tied to
a long, narrow white ribbon. The
ribbons emerge through pudding
"crust" made OF tissue paper, and each
day the bride is to pull out ribbon
and a gift. Later the rice may be
made into a real pudding in memory
Of the givers.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18


part in feminine coquetry that II
"a is never suffered to remain long
~ out of fashion. Like its big sis
ter. the parasol, the fan is much moro
an instrument Of allure than an aid
to GOODNESS. In fact both fan and
parasol pretend to be what they are
not, hiding their deep ana subtle real
intent under a pretty disguise of in
nocent utility.
The fan has been woman's chief in
Strument of coquctry from time i'm
memorial. Maybe the peacock feather
fans waved over Cleopatra by dusky
slaves, didn't have something to do
with the regal impression produced
on Anthony. In the days of the
French Directory fans had great sig
nificance. There was a regular fan
language which expressed a thousand
shades of meaning from an agitated
tutter of modesty, to the resentment
that threatened actual danger. Fans
played their part in the politics Of
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18

fan bag for opera use. The long
envelope shaped bag of white satins
trimmed with gold lace and embroid<
cred with gold cord. holds the dainty
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-11-18

>TIE fan plays such an important
part in feminine coquetry that ii
is never suffered to remain long
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21

There seems to be a general impress
sion that the stock market Is only walt
ing for reassurances in regard 20 the
relations OF this country and Germany
and that tho bull movement vii! there
upon be resumcd. Conservative people
are hoping that the financ al district
and the public also have learned some
thing from the events Of the past month
or SO and that a repetition OF tho recent
speculative excuses viii not he seen.
The history of all bull markets is tho
same IN essential details Overtrading
inevitably takes It's toll OF Wet ms. Per-
hans Il is too much 20 expect any per-
manent change in this respect. Never
theless the lesson contained in the re-
cent collapse Of speculation In the war
stocks Is recent enough TO have a cer-
tain influence. The speculative frater-
nifty has to take the large share ~
blame for what has happened. The vio-
lent fluctuations in the so-called war
stocks were due TO the trading facilities
unwlsely extended BY commission houses
OF the ultra speculative type. Cupiditv
on the part OF the public did the rest.
The public has paid as usual. Some OF
the brokers have also paid through
losses by the'- customers. Now II Ia
easy TO see how the speculative pyramid
was built W and overturned. although
even allowing for the hysteria that
prevailed mo lHVK OF nary caution
displayed by broker and customer alike
is remarkable. Therc We're any number
OF houses which permitted and ever en-
outraged their customers 20 buy war
stocks on a ten point margin. A GUS
toner might buy his 100 shares on a
ten point margin and see the price jump
ten points almost Immediately. Then
he would double his commitment and
possibly ever repeat the process later.
The result was that the market was
unable 10 stand even a perfectly nor
nal reaction. Another feature which
added TO the decentralization was the
free use Of stop loss orders. TIE
wise spectators. realizing that a reRc-
or was bound 20 come sooner or later.
Thought they could beat the game BY
PLAYING the advance with stops" a
stop loss order "a no loreer a measure
ut safety when tho market Is honey
combed with them.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
DIVIDEND OF O. & O. WAITS.
Directors Defer Action UntiI Meet.
ing on June ~.

The directors OF the Chesapelhe and
Ohio Railroad Company decided y"s'r'.
day to defer action until June u 20 e
dividend OF ! per cent. on the capita,
stock of the company due at this tine
The action OF the directors was ~
pected by Tho financial district TIE
stock OF the company has been WeaH I.
late. selling down to 80 yesterday
II !. understood that not all ~ ~
directors OF the company We're In favor
of deferring the dividend Some led
the opinion that In view OF the increase
in he gross earnings OF the coWp'N q
practically 5000 o a week the d'yti a
should be declared. The irIcrnt'orL
situation. however, and the low" cam
ings OF the Columbus and Hook &c Val.
ley. one OF the subsidiaries OF ~" 'hes@
peake n Ohio. were responsible OF
the ultimate decision OF the directors,
II was felt that he result Of me 9ir
matte negotiations between 'ierU11y
and the United States would be k0.Ea
by June II. the next date AZ which ~
dividend will be considered.
Tho directors OF the company also ap
proved he new traffic agreem-r' vi
the Norfolk and Western Railway ~
Is TO 60 INTO effect as soon as the 'htSt
peake and Ohio completes The cors'-Ie
ton work on It's new $4,000 900 btar,h
line connection with the KENTUCKY and
West Virginia coal and mineral feia
Work on this branch will be s'a'ied
soon.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
GOSSIP OF WALL STREET.
A Traders Market.

The stock market Ia still under the
influence Of the tension between this
country and Germany. There is no dis
position to subordinate this to any other
considerations AS for the fluctuations
now seen. they have probably no signif-
canoe at all. The market Is left to the
room traders. These people trade In
dull times and in active times with the
same end In view-namely. to scalp
small fractions. They are not particu-
larly concerned with outside events BE-
cause they rarely take a firm position
either way. even for a day. Tho spurts
of activity that occur from time to time
In various directions can be pretty
safely attributed to h operations OF
these SPECTATORS. with a reason or
without one the room trading element
concentrates It's attentions upon a GER
tain stock. Missouri Pacific. perhaps.
For a time there Is extreme activity
and the price Ii pushed up or down a
few points. Then the transactions are
undone and activity dies out. Through
out the real market position in the stock
is left absolutely unchanged.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
H p p MARKET.

Further sensational sales of spefter
were made yesterday at still new high
prices. There was business lone at
1871 cents for August delivery OF prime
Western grades. December bookings OF
the same grade were made at 10
cents a pound. Brass specials. which
on Wednesday sold at 1871 cents. ad-
vanced to 10 cents a pound. This was
tho level reached on wednesday by in
termediate grades, which rank a trfns
better than the primo Western ma
terial. The best grades were quoted
nominaily at about 20 cents a pound.
This weeks business In spelter has
been nothing short OF sensational. In
fact the bookings Of producers were
estimated last night to have been moro
than would ordinarily be exported In a
year. Inquiry Ia In the market FOR
even a larger amount. but producers
state that they have no nearby spelter
available In large quantities.
The rise in spelter far overshad-
owed the copper end OF the metal M
dustry. There was an improving In
uulry for copper from abroad. but actual
business was small. Domestic consumers
were looking for concessions from the IL
cent price, according to producers, VINO
said that the manufacturer were
being Influenced too largely by a drop
In London, which was caused by purely
local conditions In England.
Lead demand was quiet. with some
business doing Ut prevailing prices or
i.20 to 40 cents a pound.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
FRANCS, BREAKING,
DROP TO LOWEST
Sterling Exchange Also No.
tably Weak in the Market
Here.
NEW TALK OF CREDITS

A further break in Paris exchsnss
Yesterday carried francs to the low.
est prices at which they havs sold
within the memory Of the Oldest for.
eign exchange expert in tho f~nanca,
district. At the close OF the marss,
last night franc checks were quoted a,
SAG, while franc cables sold at 5tin,
Sterling exchange was also notably
weak. closing At <.7sN for deman.
and AIS 1l-I6 for cables. The prices
are very CLOSE TO the low records for
exchange on London made carly this
year, when sterling declined 30 lov
figures never equalled since the present
system OF foreign exchange was "
augurated. At that time sterling -
mand sold as low as as LIS and
cables at ASA.
Foreign exchange mon expressed -
opinion last night that. unless th0S
was some radical development TO-DAY,
sterling would sell as low a. II did dv-
ing the frst months Of the year z
break below that igure.
With these heavy seclinAs in SER.
ling and francs. the rumors hat Eng
land and France would be likely to 4.
tempt TO establish credits In this ocuAr
try were revived. Prominent oAnkAR
however, said that no steps had bsu
taken to that end. II vas pointed o.
that tho decline in Paris exchange mo
have been largely duo to the enormous
shipments OF gold which the BAN
OF France has been making to England
Something like $1,000 900 has bssa
sent across the Channel within the laN
few weeks. As q result, tho gold hole
of the Bank OF England, aocorA-
ing 10 it's weekly statement yesterday,
have been increased by many m,llionA
while those OF the Bank Of France shov
a corresponding decrease. Bankers ~
that as yet England has not much moV
than tapped her tremendous resources
and that shs has an i~neshaustible goA
supply to draw upon In the South
African mines.
More gold. II IL expected. will soon ar.
rive here from Ottawa. The Ban a
England sold yesterday 32.5os,o 900 GOA
for our account and II 10 expected THAI
at least twice hat amount will fnd 10
way here soon. II Ia also likely thas
more gold will be shipped here from
France to offset az much as possible
the tremendous decline in Paris II.
change. In some circles II 10 believed
that fully SIS. 900. 900 will be sent here
In the present movement.
The International Banking Corpora.
ton announced yesterday that It had en-
gagged $1,000. 900 In Yokohama FOR sap-
ment to this country on to-iays
steamer. This will bring tho total god
sent to this country by Japan since ths
fret OF the year up to $685. 900 and
will increase the total gold imports 'tom
all sources since January | to ST.
los. 900.
Italian lire was slightly weaker A,
SSH, az compared with So 900
Wednesday. Marks we're practically
unchanged at So l1-l6 for sight drafts
and SO 1916 for cables. Austrian
kronen vas lower at 1910. agains, $50
on Wednesday.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
Business

There has always been a class OF
brokers in the Street who get their bust
ness by catering to the gambling ele-
ment that IL, the people who speculate
on insufficient margins, These brokers.
Of course. need a constantly renewed
supply OF customers. They use them
up quickly Competition just now ap-
pears to be keen. because some of these
houses have been using unusual methods
10 get customers. A large commission
house this week discovered that an In
dividual posing as a dissatisfied GUS
toner had been approaching their other
customers In their own offices and So
llc!t.ng business for ono OF their rivals.
The principal inducement offered was
that so-andso down The Street would
buy anything on the list on a ten point
margin and the active leaders on Ave
points. The discovery was made through
Information given by a loyal customer.
who felt that the nrm should know what
was going on.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
MONEY AND

The New York Federal Reserve Bank
rates were 4 per cent. for thirty to
ninety days and 8 per cent. for longer
bills.
Open market discounts. prime accept
ances. maturing up TO ninety days, en-
G2L per cent.
Commercial paper rates we're 3hQ+
per cent. foT sixty n ninety day bills
and for four 10 six months best names
4% as per cent. for others.
Time money was duh and easier in
tone, Rates were 3 per cent. for sixty
and ninety days and 3ha per cent for
four months, IA m3+ per cent. for Ave
months and 4 per cent. for over the year,
Cali none" or the floor OF the stock
Exchange yesterday rulei al Ia per
cent, high, 2a low. Ia per cent.
Domestic exchange on New York 81
Louis, sc, premium; San Francisco.
300. premium; Minneapolis. 3Oc. pre-
MUM Chicago. l5c. premium: Cincin-
natl. par Montreal, SO % premium,
The weekly statement OF the Bank OF
England shows the following changes :
Total reserve decreased. f92l 900 circu-
lation decreased, Il 900, 900 bullion de-
creased. fl,922.oro other securities in
creased, f2,A6l,0oo other deposits de-
creased, 100000: public deposits In
creased, f2,5lS.0 900; Government securi-
ties unchanged.
The proportion of the mi reserve
10 liabilities Ia now 1850 per cent,
against ?l.lo per cent. last week.
Call money In London was lLalh
per cent, short bills. 2A per cent. ;
three months bills, . 1876 per cent
, Sterling exchange was weak. Final
quotations We're; Demand, +7sA ;
cables, AIS l1-l6,
BAR silver in London. 2shd. /; in New
York, i9a,c.
New York Clearing House statement
Exchanges, S27s,+o9.l4l balances, sl2,-
l67,907; Sub-Trcasury credi, balance,
1881, 239.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
The CnpitaNst in Action.

The many thousands OF persons who
passed the Broad street entrance TO the
stock Exchange around moor during the
past few DAYS had an opportunity. 70
see a capitalist employed In the ardu-
Gus task of clipping the coupons on
HIS bonds. II has become a more or
less IA miliar sight TO see n limousine
drawn up AT the curb opposite tho
stock Exchange vaults. The car has
two occupants seated opposite one an
other. a white haired old gentleman
M a woman secretary. A board held
on their knees is piled high with pack
nges OF bonds. Both are busily -n-
gagged with their scissors clipping off
the coupons The gentleman who Is
thus seen doing his own work is said
TO be an ex-menber of the Stock FIX
change. Regularly AZ each interest date
he makes a round OF the safety deposit
vaults OF the financial district.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-21
THE CURB MARKET.

Prices moved ~irregularly in the curb
market yesterday. with active trading
confined to a few issues. American
Zinc held It's prominent place in the
Industrial division. being by far the
most active toe and advancing as
high as an. The final quotation Tor
the issue represented a gain OF nearly
2 points above Wednesday. lnterna-
tional Petroleum. United Cigar stores
and United PROFIT Sharing were the
only other shares in this group TO
attract attention. but they made prac-
tically no price changes.
Business In the oil shares dwindled
10 a very small total. and quotations
were about steady. There were some
Arm spots In the mining department
on good inquiry. but alterations for the
most part were uninteresting. Penn
sylvania 4iss were active but weak.
while Chile Copper IS scored A further
gain OF / point.
Transactions in detail in the mar
ket yesterday were as follows: