davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
EDIcTs OF FRENCH MoDIsTEs
Likelihood Of a Return to the Small
Waist-The Latest Thing In
Dance Petticoats.

The French designers say hips are
still fiat, and there is no sign of
curve in them, but the normal waist
line may lead to the small waist, which
in turn, will call for rounding hips.
Designers show desire to revert to
the Louis V fashion of the small elbow
sleeve, with its deep ruffie of lace.
Quite the latest thing in dance pet
ticoats are the loose-scalloped, or
petal-founced skirts, as they are
called. The petticoat is of organdie,
in sheath model to the knee. From
it depends fiounce of scallops or
petals six inches wide. gathered full
enough to hang close together, though
each scallop is trimmed all the way
around the founce by a beading
through which the ribbon is run.
The fiounces are of dotted Swiss
lace and insertion trimmed, Of dainty
shadow embroidery, in dainty rufled
net, and in lace medallions, with lace
insertion and edging. Two other new
petticoats worth mentioning are the
ones in pique and satine They have
darts enough to fit well without being
bulky. and are finished with six-inch
embroidered or tucked ruffles at the
bottom. Their special appeal is that
they are not transparent under thin
gowns.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

fort. especially SO with chair the
back of which is composed solely of
wood, but it Is difficult, If not almost
impossible, to keep cushion in po-
sition in chair of this description,
as the least forward movement of the
occupant of the chair causes the cush.
ion to slip out of place; then again,
II one sits at table with back to
the fire, 1t is often a comfort to have
something over the back of the chair
In this little sketch we illustrate a
way in which this difficulty may he
met, and it is notion that can be car
ried out with any ordinary cushion al.
ready in existence. 1t merely con-
sists of sewing piece Of material,
about the same size as the cushion.
but tritie longer, to one edge OF 1t.
To the end of this piece of material
ribbon strings are sewed. and on either
side OF the lower edge OF the cushion
ribbon strings are also attached.
Diagram A, on the right OF the H.
lustration. explains this. the cross in
dicating the large tab of material
which is allowed to hang down be-
hind the back OF the chair and then
secured in position by tying the rib.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
IN WASHABLE LINGERIE
MANY CHARMING AND PRAc
TicAI DESIGNS SHOWN.
French ideas Improved Upon BY
American Makers of Underwear
All Kinds OF laees Have
Sanction Of Fashion.

The best of French ideas have been
adopted by American designers and
transferred into washable lingerie.
Such display of charming and prac-
tical conceits are glimpsed in the
lingerie field that each one seems
prettier than the other. 1t is crafty
ing to note that even in the moderate
priced undergarments the quality Is
not sacrificed for the benefit of cheap
er snowy trimmings and workman
ship
Laces of all kinds are used on fem
mime underapparel. Valenciennes.
btnche, fancy net laces. milan and rib
bon laces such as bruges, are amply
used OpenwOrk embroidery in Eng
lish and Madeira styles In the form OF
motifs, wheels and flowers meet in va
rious ways with lace trimming Little
tiny plaits alternating with handmade
openwOrk are features of the white
lingerie, which does not permit of a
touch of color to mar its snowy fair
ness.
The newest lingerie is of silk volle
u IAiuCu with SuCCeSSlOu Vi lTlllS
and footings.
nightgown trimmed with ribbon
threaded through puffs of net in EN-.
pire style had rather wide satin rib
bons used to draw the tucked upper
part together and relied more upon
the grace of outline and daintiness of
material for it's charm than upon any
| adornment of lace.
-Nightrobes of lustrous pussy willow
| taffeta are made in redingote style,
trimmed simply with bows of ribbon
| and picot edging A row of large eye.
lets just below the bust and another
row just below the knees allow wide
ribbons to be drawn through and tied
in bow knots. Deep square scallops
at the hem finish the rather full skirt
portion.
Almost all the chemises have re-
movable shoulder straps. They are
made shorter than usual and have
gained in width what they lost in
length.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
VALUE OF THE TREES
Enhance the Beauty of Land
scape and Architecture.
Plants improve Climate. Conserve
Soil and Moisture. and Every
Effort Should Be Put Forth to
Provide Ample Protection.

Trees are inviting and encouraging
to outdoor life. 1t is partly for this
advantage that many city people who
have the means seek homes in the
suburbs and farther in the country.
There they can enjoy trees in their
native splendor and fill their lungs
with the pure oxygen generated by
the abundance of plant life
The commercial value of the tree
should appeal to those who are not
touched by its esthetic value. Every
man should realize that tree bor-
dered farm or city street means an
increase in value of the property with
the growth of the trees
Trees improve climate. conserve the
soil and the moisture. and every effort
should be put forth to protect and
save the trees we now have and more
trees of the right kind should be
planted.
has grown to considerable importance,
and in this way sick and diseased
trees are being restored to health
Briefly. tree surgery consists in cut
ting out the rotted parts of the trees
and filling the cavities thus made with
some substance which will make the
cavity water and air tight. Most oi
these cavities are the results of i'm
proper trimming. A stub is left where
a branch has been amputated. This
stub. into which the living sap nc
longer flows, becomes saturated with
moisture, rot spores become active
the stub soon rots OF. leaving the be
ginning of pocket or cavity. which
is gradually increased by the action o
the rot spores and boring insects
Then the birds and squirrels begin t.
build their nests in these cavities anc
help to increase them until almost the
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Erock for EirIa

For little girls there is no more pop.
ular or becoming style than the plait.
ed tunic frock with smart little rag.
Ian sleeves. the fiat kits held to the
figure at the waist by fairly wide
black patent belt. while practicability
as we'll as dainty finish has been
studied in the adjustment of the white
pique collar and cuffs. so disposed
they can easily be removed for wash
ing purposes.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Oct. 81, 1914.

British monitors bombarded Ger
man right wing on Belgian coast.
Allies repulsed German attacks
at Nieuport, Dixmude and La Bas-
see.
Heavy fighting on the User.
Russians defeated 0erman-Aus.
trians In northern Poland and
halted Austrians at the San.
serbians repelIed Austrian at.
tacks in Bosnia.
Cattaro again bombarded.
German cruiser Emden sank
five British steamships In Indian
Ocean.
All unnaturaIized German and
Austrian residents in England Of
military age ordered put In deten-
tion camps.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Rape Crop Is Valuable.

AS a forage crop rape Is valuable on
account of the cheapness of the pas.
ture, the large quantity of feed f"r-
nished, the health of the hogs on the
pasture, and because 1t adds variety
to the ration and is available at time
when other pastures may be short.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

cement. This is made by using three
parts of clean, sharp sand to one part
of cement. FIJI cavity with this NOR.
tar, then bring the filling to smooth.
water-tight finish, with a mortar made
by using one part sand to one part
cement.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

extend the silo upward perpendicular.
ly when being filed. After settling.
this roof can be folded up to make a
closed top that sheds rain and keeps
out snow. Independently elevatable
sections. one of them having q cap
attached, are locked together.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Adjustable silo Roof.

roofs. tops and covers have been de-
sised to allow the filling several feet
above the top. SO that when settling
is all over the silo will be nearly full.
The roof shown here Is adjustable, be-
ing the recent patent OF Galesburg
H.. inventor. The roof opens out to
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Neat and Effective Tree Surgery.

Neat and Effective Tree Surgery.
entire center of the tree trunk has
been destroyed. Unless this rotting
is stopped the strongest and most
magnificent tree will be destroyed.
The proper way to proceed Is to
clean out the entire cavity, using a
chisel or gouge to remove all the rot
ted wood. Then wash the interior Of
the cavity with a solution of copper
sulphate made by dissolving in a
wooden vessel. one-fourth of pound
of copper sulphate in ten gallons of
water. This solution can be sprayed
into the cavity by means of small
hand pump. This solution will kill all
the remaining rot spores and the cav.
ity is now ready to be filled with
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Oct. %, 1914.

French retook AItkireh.
General HeImuth Won Moltke.
chief Of German general staff, re.
tired on account Of health.
Russians defeated Germans near
Warsaw.
Russians captured many Austri-
ans and some guns In Galicia.
French and British warshIps
bombarded German positions on
Belgian coast.
British cruiser CarmanIa dam
aged.
American relief committee
cabIed 5000 to Relsians.
Oct. 20, 1914.
German right wing, REINFORCED.
gained ground at La eassee.
Heavy fighting between the
Ghent- eruses line and RouIers.
Russians won battle along the
vistula and pursued the Austrians
in Poland.
Germans moved fortified posi-.
tions to River Warthe.
Austrians reoccupied czerno
witz and announced capture Of
forts near Sambor.
German aviators dropped bombs
on Warsaw.
Woman spies executed In Ger.
many.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
WAY TO FAs1EN WIRE FENCE
1t Is Not Desirable to Place Staples
or Hoops in Green concrete-Sin-
pie Plan is Described.

There are numerous methods OF at
Some makers place staples or wire
loops in the green concrete: others
make holes in the posts. The former
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
ADJUSTABLE ROOF FOR siLo
Trouble Caused by siIase Settling
Snow and Rain Kept Out.

Silos always settle several feet. and
unless refilled few days after the
first filling will be only about three
fourths full when ready to be fed
from. To overcome this trouble silo
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Keep Onions Dry.

Onions should not be allowed to
get wet when being harvested. as this
roughens the skin and makes them un
slightly.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

Buy Ducks n Fall.
With ducks always buy new blood in
the fall. 1t takes several months for
ducks to become satisfied and con.
tented with new location.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Eeedino Poultry,

II the fowls are fed three times ,
day. they should be fed only lightly
at noon and all they will eat up clean
Just before going to roost.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

Ducklines Are Delicate.
Runner ducklings are very delicate
when hatched. and must have good
care.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Protection Needed.

When cream is left at the roadside 9
for collection sufficient protection
from the heat OF the sun must be pro
vided.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Coats Button Hioh,

Many of the coats are being made
to button up high on the chest, with
deep collars at the back. This will
permit the stokes Of fur to fall grace
fully on either side. and not nece ssar.
lily to be drawn up very high to the
throat.
Rivals Of Serge.
Gaberdine and woolen duvetyn are
rivals of serge and velvet. but silk
often displays velvet checks and
stripes. and skirts of this would ac-
company a plain velvet bodice.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

Avoid Short-Term Leases.
Short-time leases mean soil deple.
ton, rundown farms, dissatisfied farm
owners and renters.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
THE EUROPEAN WAR A
YEAR AGO THIS WEEK
Oct. 10. 1914.

Oct. 70, 1914.
Severe fighting near Nieuport
and in Aisaee.
Germans repulsed by BeIsians
at River User and by French At
st. Die.
Germans evacuated Courtral.
Austrians repuised at River
San.
Serbians routed Austrians on the
Save and the 0rina.
Anti-German riots In London.
President Poineare's country
house destroyed by Germans.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
KEEPS CUSHION IN POSITION
Device Does Away With Difficulties
That Every Housekeeper Has
No Doubt Encountered,

A cushion at the back of an ordinary
dining room chair is another COM
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

bon strings together. This is shown
accomplished in diagram B.
The ta5 should be made Of the same
material as the cushion Is covered
with, a similar design ray possibly be
worked upon it. and 1t should be
lined with soft silk and edged with
silk cord,
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Oct. 10. 1914.

Allies, aided by British war
ships. repeiied German advance
between Nieuport and Dixmude.
Germans attacked allied line
from Ostend to Lille.
Fierce fighting near Warsaw and
Przemysl.
Serbians captured saraievo
forts.
British battieship Triumph dam
aged at Tsingtau.
Japanese cruiser Takachiho
sunk by German submarine In
kiaochow bay
Austrian submarine sunk by
French cruiser In Adriatic.
Fifty thousand Belgian refugees
returned from Holland.
Irish nationaiists In London took
pledge to avenge Belgium.
Italian fleet mobilized.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

Best Butter Ladle.
A hardwood butter working ladle
Is the bes. to use.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

French Modistes Were SO Charmed
With the Pantaiette Idea (AIthough
they Were Worn Way Back in 1859
That They Decided to Adopt II and
Worked Out This Charming Model
for Fall Wear. So Popular Has It
Become Abroad, That Over Here.
the Petticoat Manufacturers Are A.
ready Beginning to Make Plans to
Offset its Effect on Their Industry.
The Model Is a Three.Piece Street
Costume. The Pantaloons and Waist
Are Combined. The Material Used
Is Black BroadcIoth Trimmed With
Russian Fitch.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22

They Always Do.
Does anyone think your son has
q future?" "Yes; the life Insurance.
comp saics."-Life
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Rivals Of Serge.

Optimistic Thought.
Always remember that birds OF a
feather flock together.
The Holly chieftain., 1915-10-22
Oct. 20. 1914.

Germans gained near Lille.
Battles along banks Of the User.
on the Arras-Roye line and on the
Meuse.
Allies reported recapture Of
eruges.
Przemyst forts badly damaged.
Austrians advanced in stryj and
silica valleys.
Serbians won at Prekiet.
British submarine E-3 sunk.
Japanese fleet took islands OF
Marianne group.
Two German ships sunk at ia.
luit.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1915-03-02
The Great Press Has the CufleT-Hdmmer
System of Electric Control

Of
fully and
ctudbyt Hammer
motors
the
the smanto the moorw when ceta speed has
Of OF
four
through the the or
a a
BROUGHT of
% brekin o o
the button stations control times
With the asafestop nd
IL Is the s will
it
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1915-03-02
PRINTING PRESS CONSTRUCTION
AND BIDS FAIR TO -REVOLUTIONIZl
Tubular Cylindrical Plates Itself Mulpes

While the for the product of this first
De apparent the explanation nevertheless quite simple In all the
cylindrical two plates being the cyn
der From this follows that when the machine operation each
the revolving cylinder oneha
through the air without the other half With
tubular avoided printing
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1915-03-02
A SENSATIONAL FEATURE IN Pr

Tubular Rotary the
three the most talked of in the field In
all
publishers because of its peculiar advantages and astonishing
product.
invention which characterze this machine the Cynd
Tubular plates used
other stereotype presses ..
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1915-03-02
DuDler Tubular Double Plate g..
Detroit Times By the Dupl
ROborf Hoe President and

IND 16pagepa
pag
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nysetonc medasa oorse tom hsds red Il
Equipped fa ROLL an LEI
w tina tear be ped
The hur tretue ahmsis tn Invention o
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The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1915-03-02
| Ain the Printing Press
By ROBERT H. DAVIS.

Z Nam earth My heart
is of stee, limbs on and fingers of brass
sing songs of world, history.
ESSNs2SN the symphonies Of all time.
HesSxl / the of today the herald Of tomorrow
the the woof Of the future
ell the tories o and alike
beat with passion tenderness stir the
deeds and soldiers die
inspire midnight at his loom to lift his head
again fearesness the vast beyond, seeking the
consolation Of hope eternal
myriad people listen The AngoSaxon
the the un Sav the Hindu all comprehend me-
of the and sorrows
billiards mind with thoughts uplifting am light
knowledge mind matter
am the of all things achieved My offspring
candles amid the dim lamps OF poverty the
spnor high and the waning evening
world and shall die until
all things the immutable dust
I'm printing press
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
Jack Bender
 After Picture.

Manager Bender of the IVran- gell Photcshow has branched out in a new line this week when he returned from Juneau on the Jeff erson with picture taking mach inc for making moving pictures: lacks first work along that line will be picture oi the wreck ot the Delhi, for which place he left Tuesday oh the gas boat Grace in company with several other Wran- gellites. Jack is right there when it comes to getting new ones and should make a hit with the first one;
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
Night Rate
 On Cable

According to information given out by the local cable office. the Government has seen it to place in service a new Night Letter Rate. which will take effect February Ist. The new rating will help in several ways, by taking part of the load of the wires at the busy time and make the charges much cheaper, the new rate being 12 cents per word for a ten word message as to I6 cents by the, present day rate. Messages can be filed at any time but will not be sent until the day work is cleared from the wires and will be delivered the next day, or if it goes further than Seattle the night. service will be carried all the way through. The new rate not only applies to Seattle message but takes in Alaska as we'll, htnce q message unde- this head can be sent to ketchikan or Juneau at the rate of } cents per word for ten word message.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
Alki Arrives
 Under New Co.

The Al-ki on her first trip under the new management, the Border Line Transportation Co.,, arrived up early last Sunday morning. The Border Line Co. recently pur- chased the vessels of the North land s. s. Co. and will place another vessel on the run as soon as the spring business opens up. The new vessel is known as the Dispatch and with the new fleet the new company will go after their share of the Alaska business.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
Wrangell Team
 Fastest In Alaska

That Wrangell has the fastest Basket Ball team iu Alaska is sure the truth. and the boys added an- other laurel to their cap last Sat urday night when they defeated the fast Metlakatla team in their return game at the Rink to the tune of ro to 24. The game was the fastest that has ever been play. ed in the local hall and all of the team clothed themselves with glory by playing some of the fastest ball ever seen. The Metlakatla team is an exceptionally fast team, the only time they have ever been de- feated is by the Wrangell boys in both games, at Metlakatla and
 
 here, butt they have not the speed and endurance of the local team.
 The game Saturday night was the return game to the one played at that place on January and last. The team, accompanied by a "A piece band, arrived last Friday. Friday night the band put on a concert at the Rink which was cer. tainly musical treat as the Met lakatla Concert Band, under the leadership of Patrick ]: Nerney, is one of the finest bands in Alas. ka, their Overture "The Royal Trupeters" and the American" Patrol are numbers especially good.
 After the game Saturday night, the band and the local orchestra furnished some great music for a dance which was very we'll attend ed and every one had . good time.
 Monday night the Metlakatla team played the Wrangell second team and carried of the bacon to the score of 8 to13.
 The game Saturday night was played before the largest crowd that has ever turned out in the town, the large Rink being packed to the doors, and the rooters gave both teams good support. Come on boys lets go after the rest of the Alaska teams and show them fnat Wrangell is on the athletic map to stay.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
Dr. Jones 
 Sends Report

The Sentinel is indebted to E. Lester Jones. Deputy Commission CT of Fisheries, for a complete copy of his Report of Alaska h. yestigations, made last summer during his trip through Alaska. The report is a very interesting one and covers every fraze of the Alaska fishing industry besides an investigation into the conditions of the fur bearing animals of Alas ka and all other branches of the service.
 One of the most notable recom- mendations of the report IS that Alaska be deyided into five dis tricts to obtain a more complete administering to their separate peeds, and also that Southeastern Alaska be cut into three separate districts and the administering Of closed seasons for the fishing. as the Wrangell District fishing should stop September Ist; and the district embraces all the waters in Southeastern Alaska between $ deg. north latitude and 57 deg. north latitude, or with a southern boundry line approximately from Yes Bay hatchery westwerd to Cape Decisions
 Under the heading of Some Needs of Alaska on page 61; is found: Another matter that was brought to my attention was the absence of a Government Wharf at Wrangell. When Government
 (Continued on Last Page
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
ketchikan Here
 February 9th

Manager Lynch, of the Wrangell Basket Ball team, is in receipt of a wire this morning from Dr. N al ker, manager of the ketchikan Basket Ball team, stating that they will be in Wrangell and play a re- turn game on the night of the 9th ot February, a week from next Sat urday. We will be waiting for them and will be right there to see the local bows hand another bunch to ketchikan.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
Mrs. Lee
 Passes Away

Elizabeth N. Lee, the beloved wife of Albert Lee, passed away at the family residence at four o'clock last Saturday morning Jan- uary B.
 The deceased has been ailing in health for some time, has ing been confined to her bed for the greater part of the past four months. De- ceased leaves husband and eight year old son to mourn her passing away.
 Mir. Lee and family have made Wraneell their home for the past ten years, and for the past two years he has acted as pilot on the local mill tug Alaska, and has many friends in Wrangell who svmpathise with him in his time of sorrow,
The Wrangell sentinel., 1915-01-28
Alaska Packers
 Ann'lal ReT ort,

The Sentinel IS in receipt ot the Annual Report of the Alaska Pack CTS Association on a late mail and from it we glean the following in- teresting facts.
 The big company opperated total of F canneries during the 1914 season. IL ot them in Al 'i a and one on Puget sound. Tie total pack of the company was I, Al, ESQ cases. The con pany now has a total fleet of B " ssels.
 In speaking of the market the report states. During the first part of 1914. the salmon markets were satisfactory and prom sing. The outbreak of the European ar caused serious universal eco. o...ic disturbances. Our con4par has not sold any of it's IoI4 pack tcr its usual outlets in Asia, Africa or South America. The salmon ship ments 10 Europe and to our south ern states were greatly curlallod. Some of our northern states. --ad Australia, took rather full pro portion. In consequence ot tLr71 conditions the catry-over ot ,dc 1914 salmon pack on the fa'tc Coast is the largest in the hl>t. rE of the business. The canned sal mon stocks in hands of the trade are light; and with reasonable dis tribution the carry-over should bee ome greaaly reduced before tN- 1915 pack is ready for nlarket,a=.