The Greenville journal. [volume] (Greenville, Ohio) 1850-1918, 1915-03-04
CBy sYLvANUs VAN AIKEN }

A system of pruning which has re-
ceived some favor is to cut back the
young growth In June. 1t is difficult
to say what the ultimate results of
such system Of pruning will be, but
from one years experience the re-
suits seem satisfactory. The long
growth is stopped and many short
twigs are forced out among the limbs.
With such scraggly, scrawny grow
ers as the Burbank plum, the results
will indicate that more compact and
symmetrical trees will be formed by
the summer pruning.
Orchard trees may be pruned any
time from late fall to May, depending
somewhat on latitude. The most COM
mon time of doing 1t Is on pleasant
day in February, March or April.
A fine, sharp saw, knife or pair of
small pruning shears are the only i'm
plements usually required, but l use
q long-handled pruning shear and also
a good saw hung on an eight-foot pole.
This does away with all ladder work.
For small trees up to twelve feet
high, such as pear and plum, pruning
shears will be found the quickest. If
a ladder must be used to work on, it
should be stepladder, as the limbs
are not strong enough to bear the
weight of man in the center of the
tree without the possibility of break
ing or peeling the bark.
Set the ladder close to the tree at
one side and begin pruning from the
bottom, going up step by step and
drawing toward you all branches you
can reach.
Before setting the ladder one should
look the tree over carefully and de-
eide just which branches should be
removed and where they should be
cut, as we'll as the amount of head
ing in.
If all trees are allowed to take
their natural form as nearly as possi-
BILE, and not pruned to one desired
shape, much labor will be saved.
Large apple trees which have been
properly pruned every year or two,
need to have removed only dead
branches, the water sprouts and such
other branches as cross one another,
or in some way interfere with other
limbs.
AS the tree grows larger and older,
the spread will become greater, and
small branches in the inner part of
the head will gradually become un-
fruitful and should be removed.
On all such trees sharp, fine saw
is necessary, coarse saw making too
ragged and rough wound. Make the
first cut from the under side of the
limb, to prevent splitting or tearing
of the bark as the branch drops off.
Then cut from above, making the cut
as nearly perpendicular as possible.
All limbs should be cut at the small
est part, yet as close to the trunk or
main limb as practical.
After saving off, trim the edges
smooth with sharp knife and cover
the wound with paint, using none
which. contains turpentine.
Cutting. the edges smooth induces
more rapid healing, while painting the
wood keeps out fungi and rain and
prevents decay:
Old trees which have not been
pruned for some years will need
thorough renovation. 1t will be found
at times necessary to cut out some Of
the limbs before one can climb tree.
Care must be taken not to remove
too much of the top during one year,
and not over one-fourth should be
taken out Cut out all dead branches.
The tree will probably contain
great many sprouts of several years
growth, and many of these should be
removed. However, where they are
several inches in diameter as is some
times the case, few may be left to
form a new head.
If one wishes to graft undesirable
trees to good varieties these sprouts
will be of value in which to set the
scions and form the new head.
Experience and observation are