davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

we'll away from all neutral tints. The
elderly person who chooses gray adds
twenty years to herself. IL she dare
the sand tints, let her keep black vel
vet near her face and about her hair
in order to give the effect of back
ground.
But black and white in combination
the gray-haired woman may choose for
her own. She can be lovely moon
light lady if she will, for they offer
an enhancing background, especially
if she have saved the lovely soft tints
of her complexion by as much fresh
air as she can absorb and has allowed
enthusiasm to give q sparkle to her
eyes. White in the clear tints will
show delicate transparent porcelain eff
fects in the complexion, and the soft
black velyets and woods and nets will
give character to both hair and face.
But let the gray-haired woman con-
slider black taffeta and the shiny silks
with caution. They are hard and glis-
tening and should have a whisper OF
net or gauze over them near the face
and always be associated with white.
Nothing is lovelier for the gray
haired woman for evening than the
transparent whites Of muslin or chiffon
and gauZe. For summer wear the
black and white striped muslins and
GAUGES are charming.
Jet is the gray-haired woman's own
for necklace. hairpins or combs, for the
contrast which they offer. But 1t must
be used sparingly.
The gray-haired woman must keep
her face young. Enthusiasm, that
lovely youth OF the spirit, must look
from her eyes and curve her mouth
tenderly.
An Indolent life of self-indulgence
coarsens and thickens the features.
Keep the mind alert, nimble and WORK,
ing, and the features OF the face VIII
keen their delicacy of line. And is
there anything lovelier than a happy
youthful face filled with enthusiasm
and good will beneath its crown OF sill
yer hair? And this happy look is won
often because its owner resolutely re-
fuses to carry about load OF woe ior
others 70 share or TO look upon life
from a dreary standpoint. To have
lived. TO have suffered, perhaps many
things: to have known care ana sor.
row. and vet to show 10 others tha'
life has beauty and love and Charity -
isn't that what the years shouid De-
stow along with gray hair!
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

advice and cooking schools arc good
beginnings for a community centre. In
deed, they cover much of the human
and community need of our day. But
there are other needs, which can be
we'll provided only through collective
action (Which does not mean supported
from the tax budget, and which lie
right ahead Of the community centre.
To mention only one-preventive medi-
cine, optical diagnosis, dental aid, pre-
natal work and milk stations. As a
practical suggestion to the members
of Association 60: Why not form
committee to study the question Of
sickness insurance in its bearing on
neighborhood and personal health?
Cooperation Essential.
Third-There was one cooperative
society when the Rochdale spinners
began their work. There are tens OF
thousands now. They have made COM
mon cause; they have Joined in great
wholesall enterprises; they run fleets
Of steamers and maintain factories.
They have Joint bureaus for propa-
ganda. So 1t will be with the commu-
nifty centres. Possibly the time is al
ready ripe for such union Of effort
without any sacrifice Of local auton-
omy) among the centres Of greater New
York. The community centre move
ment will not rest on secure founda-
ton until such cooperation is begun.
You can break one twig easily, but q
bundle of faggots is hard TO break.
As a final word: Good cheer TO the
association Of P. S. 60; patience and
enthusiasm will win.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
y 4 Woman'S Peace Letter ~

He was not allowed to present his prop
reasons, but because this particular
college president did not want the girls
to join anything which involved a con-
ference with young men in the sum-
mer! leave you to guess which col
lege it was, only adding that it was not
Vassar.
"Of course the Cornell conference
revolves more or less around Norman
Angel. That is inevitable. But in
spite Of that there is a very remarka-
BILE degree of freedom in debate and
discussion. And many Of the invited
speakers are pronounced militarists,
like Major Putnam and Hudson Maxim.
Perhaps the most exciting evening was
when William English Walling spoke,
presenting the extreme MARKHAM Social
ist point f view toward war as opposed
to what is getting to be called Norman
Angellism.
"Of course Norman Angel has some
blind and adoring followers, but they
do not seem to spoil him. He is,
think, a real teacher He seems TO want
to let the boys work out things for
themselves. | am getting some new
suggestions about education, as we'll as
about peace.
"As for the boys, for that is what
most of them are, although | suppose
many of them are college graduate stu
dents, at first it seemed like a debat-
ing society, but | soon began to dis
tinguish some very keen minds, the
leaders stood out, and | began to think
that this conference would have ire
mendous results even before the year
was out"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
Pipmes Of Contrasted CoIors on the Linen Suit

vet ribbon, while q small bunch OF
yellow roses gave precisely the right
tilt 10 the brim.
The younger sister was distractingly
lovely in a begonis pink linen, peasant
blue piped. The latter tone bound
sleeves, slit at the outer side Of the
wrist, and also a square tablier reliev-
ing the plainness of a skirt. full-gsth-
cred under a self-belt, wide enough to
touch the edge of bolero bodice, link
button fastened at throat and waist.
Only from the rear could be seen
wide ribboned sash, in blue, which
started at either side Of the figure from
the waist line, and joined halfway
down the skirt. But from every van
tage point could be viewed a white
lawn cavalier collar and q black hat.
From the latter fosted the long ends
of huge bow in black faille ribbon
matching the binding of its brim.
Over the lawns and about the paths,
pausing occasionally TO co. suit with
surdial or to peer into pergola,
fitted a twelye-yesr-old guest at the
same garden party at hich the two
beauties in linen held their court. The
gallant sailor-host assured her that he
would have mistaken her for bluebird
had the shade Of her linen frock been q
wee bit deeper.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

~ ONT dye it. 1t is a never-ending,
messy job TO keep it touched
up, for most hair grows about
an inch a month; and worst, or best, of
all, the deception rarely deceives any
one. The lines that care and expert
ence and thought have written into
every mature face require the softening
effect Of the silver tones above it.
Dyed hair has a hardening effect on
some faces, and TO others il gives an
almost cruel look.
But once having accepted gray hair,
make of it your greatest beauty. 1t must
be kept spotlessly clean, and therefore
washed often with water or q tonic,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

NEE 70 IL that your linen frock has
pipings Of a different color.
Otherwise, that costume will not
D elective. And il IL is going 70 lack
nat Characteristic, why have II made 7
a mediocre frock, particularly one in
men, is worse than none at all in thin
Material. Better simmer, martyr-lke'
ehder a perfectly tailored serge.
One Of the prettiest girls IN New
iors soeiety--she would be the pref
nest had she not a younger sister
whose beauty will create a Juror when
'ae comes out next winter-wore at
tatden pa iy recently an orange-piped,
nus-green linen frock which every
woman present raved about. Be sure
"st several Of them surreptitiously
haoe thumb-nail sketches of il for the
eeaeht Of their dressmakers. although
aey might easily have remembered the
'nportant facts. The full-gathered
'sirt started under an orange-lined and
Piped self-belt. The same vivid yellow
'asee edged the closely fitted sleeves Of
eolero bodice closed at left front
'Hh row OF nickel ball buttons. One
.'seh Of white double cavalier col
In lawn-relieved this exquisite
'.'es' which was topped by a black
.1ss thepherdess hat from whose back
ss'ssfed. strssmers Of vide black vel
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
lfTHE biggest force for reform il

"ThE biggest force Tor reform IN
American clubwoman. She
has been almost neglected, and yet
teach her TO use that ridiculed power,
her indirect influence, and she can force
through any legislative body the meas
ures that she wants" Miss Inez Weed,
former dean of women of the State
University Of Washington, who left her
position to spend herself wholly on a
survey Of the conditions Of women who
work, was speaking.
81 do not at all mean" she said, that
indirect influence is TO be priced above
all other leverage. There is tremen-
dous vast" of energy in using it, but it
should not be neglected among our list
Of recourses."
Miss Weed was the youngest woman
dean in the country when she resigned
and came East to study the problem at
Columbia University, not long ago. She
has travelled north and south inyesti-
eating the conditions under which
women, men and children are forced to
work. She has made Investigations for
the Commission on Industrial Relations
and is at present carrying on extensive
work in study of the psychological
basis of violence, on which she is to
make a report to the commission. And
she finds that one of the most impor-
tant accomplishments which still lie
before US is the education of woman
as a worker. Not only should every
woman work, but she should work pro-
fessionally. The average woman is not
a professional worker. She remains in
her position from three TO five years
and regards it merely as transitory
employment before she marries. Hence
she takes any position which is offered
to her and does it in exactly the way
she is told, without trying in the least
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

"But this" she explained, "is only
because women regard their labors as
transitory and do not enter into them
seriously. IL she knew that she was
to work all her life she would regard
it differently.
"Why not have the daughter of the
employer go to the factory and learn
her fathers business from the bottom,
lust as the son now does? Then the
status of labor for all women would
change. For the rest of the women
would be affected psychologically by
this attitude of mind toward labor:
They would demand better wages and
refuse to permit themselves to be used
instead of men because they could be
driven more quickly and gwen less
money to satisfy them.
This will affect men in the laboring
world, too, and in this way will AFFECT
the entire industrial and economic
world of to-day"
When Miss Weed says that women
should work all their lives she would
exclude only that period directly con-
nected with childbirth. or the rest
of the time there is no necessity to do
work at home, as now she is forced to
work all day in factory, and then re-
turn to her household drudgery. II Is
too much, and none is done well. That
is why we have poor homes.
an Finland, where all are poor, and
all work. the question has been solved
admirably. They have large co-opeera-
five APARTMENTS where someone does
the cleaning for them, the cooking
which is sent to their own private din
ing rooms, and takes care Of their chill
dren. Thus only will the home of the
poor woman be fit place for the rear
ing of her children. Every woman
must work, and there must be division
of labor in the womanly professions,
Just as there is in every well-managed
factory owned by men,"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

work. Men can stand IL, but women
cannot. Women are more pliable and
they are more conscientious in matters
of that kind. Men react more honest
ly to their feelings, and will not work
quicker than their systems can stand.
But women always will try to finish
more and more in the given time and
they keep up the increase until the
breakdown. And of course each in
crease is useless, for a new standard is
set for the others, and the wage de-
creased to the new standard.
"The only hope for the working girl
is the union, for This will force en-
ployers to manage their establish
ments scientifically. So far they have
learned only to manage their machn-
cry in a modern manner But their
employers they have mismanaged alb
surdly, to the detriment of themselves
and most of their employees. Efficiency
has not yet been humanized sufficiently
to include the human machine in its
scope.
"And women are needed to effect
this. Women should superintend wom-
en-. There should be foreladies, and
right through there should be women
in working charge of other women. For
only woman can really understand
conditions which confront women. OF
course, there are women who would
make far worse superintendent of
women than men do. But that is be-
cause they have been picked from the
rank and file only because they could
turn a screw more quickly than the
otherso
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
The American Clubwoman Is the Most Potent
Factor i'm Our Hopes Of Social Reorgani-
zati0m, Says Social Investigator.
Ultimately All Women Must Work Professionals
Transory Labor Cut Short by Marriage Will Go,
Propheses Miss Inez Weed-lndirect Influence Not
To Be Snubbed

to better the work or the conditions of
employment,
. This is the chief reason why labor
is of greater menace TO woman than to
men. She endeavors to get as much
money as she can from the bit Of work
which she is doing, and therefore she
works herself beyond capacity. Women
must be organized. They must be
unonzed.
"There are So many things which
women should not be permitted to do,
and which the law does not prohibit,
that nothing but the interference OF
women will help the situation.
"Women should see to it that women
are not allowed to work in places where
it requires manipulation of machinery
which is too heavy for them. This is
done very much more than one sus-
poets. And instead Of building up
muscle. as it might with men, this
overexertion kills the women. They
are worn out within two or three years
of the time when they have started
these labors.
"Of course they should not work in
places where they are open to lead
poisoning or other chemicals which ut
terly injure their womanhood. In some
places the law prohibits this, but not
in all. Women work in many paint
factories, for example.
"But the Importance of women's
ceasing to work where there is no un
due nervous strain has been entirely
underestimate Women who are
seated at quickly moving machines,
especially sewing machines, are shaken
to pieces by the vibration and their
nerves are worn out. The physical
ruin that comes from the overstrain of
speeding work is tremendous.
Women almost never, should say,
should be allowed to work at piece
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
NAPOLEON TART.

Line a deep baking dish with rich
pastry, put in layer of preserves, and
sprinkle with chopped almonds and
grated lemon peel. Mix one-half cup Of
melted butter with one cup Of sugar,
add the yolks of four eggs and the
whites Of three, we'll beaten. Mix thor
oughly, pour over the preserves, bake
in a moderate oven, cover with mer-
ingue, and bake until pulled and brown.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
T ,,BE|!5 :

John Henning Fry, the artist, FOL
lowing the example Of Otto H. Kahn,
has contributed $1,000 to the Friends
of Young Artists. Mr.. Fry, who is a
member Of the American Art Associa-
ton, the Artists Fund Society, the
Lotos Club and the Salmagundi Club.
is interested in the support Of any
movement tending toward the better
ment Of art in America. Mr.. Pisani,
OF Pisani Brothers, has contributed $50
70 the same cause. Others who have
recently become patrons are A. G. Gal
latin, W. II. Orchard, B. ]. Table,
Therun B. Clark, W. B. Liege and W.
Francklyn Paris.
The summer exhibition Of pictures
and sculpture still continues at the
Montross Galleries, $50 Fifth Avenue.
The artists represented include George
Bellows, d. Putnam Brinley, Mowbray
Clarke, Elliott Daingerfeld, Arthur B.
Davies. Arthur Wesley Dow, william
J. Glackens, George Hart, c. Bertram
Hartman, Childe Hassam, Winslow
Homer, George lines, Maurice Sterne,
Bessie Potter Vonnoh, Horatio Walker
and J. Alden Weir.
The second annual exhibition CT
pottery by Mrs. Clara L. Poillon. which
was the opening attraction at the New
port Art Association Galleries, closes
to-day after a successful session OF
two weeks. Several reproductions of
the antique from originals in the Met
ropolitan Museum Of Art were shown.
Among those who purchased exhibits
were Nine. Bakhmeteff. Mrs. Hunt
Slater. Mrs. H. D. Auchincloss, Mr.. and
Mrs. Rober. Reid, DIR. Roderick Terry,
Professor V. W. Burgess, Mr.. and Mrs.
George Peabody Eustis, Mrs. Tucker
man, Mrs de Forest Merrill and Mr
and Mrs. John Elliott
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
ORANGE TARTS.

Nix the juice OF two large oranges
with the grated rind Of one and the
,ujce o. half a lemon rubbed smooth,
with teaspoon OF cornstarch. Stir
while cooking. Add three-fourths cup
Of sugar and two tablespoons of melted
butter Line patty pans with pastry,
Ell and bake
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

TO reake this gown of oWered silk little need be done
to the blouse The large square scallop that finishes the
waist and falls over the full skirt may be piped with color
Srngs of the silk finish the sleeve and edge the decoete
Two rueS of the old skirt used on new base OF emma
silk to produce the quaint skirt shown IN the cut
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
PEACH TART.

Make a rich piecrust. roll thin and
bake in three fat sheets. Spread with
butter and cool. Put together with
crushed and sweetened peaches, and
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
APPLE PINEAPPLE TART.

Line a pie tin with pastry, put In .
LAYER Of pineapple, sprinkled with
.ur.r. spread with apple sauce, fill with
,,peapple. cover with pastry and bake.
Glaze with beaten egg, bake for three
minutes, sprinkle with powdered sugar
and serve hot or cold.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
OUNCE TART.

Peel and core four ounces. Cook
until soft in water to cover. drain, rub
through a sieve, add one cup of sugar,
the we'll beaten yolks Of four eggs, and
two cups of milk. Line a deep baking
dish with good pastry, fill, bake for
forty-fve minutes, cover with meringue,
and bake until a delicate brown.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
GOoSEBERRY TART.

stew one pint Of green gooseberries
until soft, using as little water as pos
,ible. Drain, rub through & sieve, and
add 10 one and one-hslf cups each Of
butter and sugar creamed together.
Add gradually six eggs we'll beaten, and
four lady fingers, grated. Beat until
smooth, pour into a buttered baking
Nsh. and bake for half an hour. Bake
puF paste IN small patty tins, and when
cold FIJI with gooseberry filling and
.,rye with whipped cream.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES TART.

Line tart shells with raspberry jam
and fill with a boiled custard made OF
the yolks Of three eggs, one cup of
cream, and sugar to sweeten. Bake for
ten minutes and serve cold. Straw
berries or cherries may be used in the
G ann WAY
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29

Line a deep dish with piecrust. Fill
with plums, sprinkling thickly with
brown sugar. Cover with crust and
bake forty minutes. Serve hot with
thick cream.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
8 WOMAN'S VARIED INTERESTS
Tarts That Tempt
ENGLISH PLUM TART.

cover with whipped cream. Other fresh
fruits may be used in the same way.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1915-06-29
Co-operates with. Day School.

There are two or three points bear
ing on the future of community GEN.
tres which may be interesting to note.
First-The community centre coop
crates with the day school and all
other regular activities in the school
building, with the park board, the
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1915-12-16

The Eagles editorial comment at
the beginning Of the cotton season
10 the effect that this country should
sell her cotton wherever she pleased
and give her cotton ships convoy
of a hundred battleships II necessary
10 see that II reached its destination.
seems not TO have been a wild dream
ms some thought at the time. The edi-
torial was widely copied. Endorsed by
some papers and by some considered
rather bold. II now develops that
Secretary Of the Navy Daniels holds
the same opinion as that expressed
by the Eagle. In a sneech Wednesday
before the Southern Commercial Con-
gress at Charleston. he said the
South particularly nedeed the protec'
ton embodied in the presidents pre-
paredness program. He said the
south's principal crop was cotton. II
was sold largely abroad and our mer'
chant marine needed the protection
OF an adequate navy In reaching It's
destination. From the above utter
ance Il will he seen the Eagles idea
Of what American independence
should be. was not 50 extravagan'
after all.
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1915-12-16
DANIELS BELIEVES
IN DREADNAUGHTS
Advocates Increasing Navy Units In
Numbers Rather Than size-Most
Of Report Secret

Washington. Dec. l6-From the
lessons OF the European war the navy
department has reached the eonclu.
sion that the "dreadnought most
nearly approaches the ideal" as a war
ship, according TO a report sent to
congress Tuesday by Secretary Of the
Navy Daniels The department. how
ever. recommends a balanced con
struction program. holding that III Is
decidedly better to increase the fight
ing units in numbers rather than in
size"
The report was submitted in reply
to a provision Of the last paval az
preparation bin asking the secretary
TO inform congress as TO the build
ing OF four warships Of the tyne
power and speed which. in the secre
tary's Judgment based on a knowl
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1915-12-16
BE "kEERFuL," Ed.

So far we have not seen a single
blow In the Nayasota Examiner.Re-
view where any Of Ed Blackshears
friends have brought him In great
hunks OF country sausage, spare ribs.
backbone. hog jowl. turnip greens.
etc. What you been doing TO the
boys, Ed!-Bryan Eagle.
i. Must not have been reading this
column very carefully. We reported
most liberal lot Of collards a day or
10 ago and that very day a good
friend brought us in a great big piece
Of hog jowl. Had sausage last week
and we are confidently expecting
some friend TO remember us again
this week.-Navasot Examiner.
Been watching this column like
a hawk and dingbusted II this isn't
the first intimation we have had that
any Of the bliss producing. soul salts
Tying viands had been sent in. Glad
10 know they are coming so freely
and our only. admonition is to be
"keerful" and don't founder right here
Mt Christmas.