The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-10-03

tiful Effects Paris Eve ming Frocks Reach the Probable Limit of Short ness = Bleu Horizon the New Shade of Delec- table Hue. n NE waits for the big openings
 to be made sure of what is to
 be what in winter evening ap-
 parel. All through September. tailored street costumes and useful little frocks of taffeta and faille have been the chief interest-both in the shops and in the fashion magazines. Here and there a dance frock, or a stunning evening wrap has appeared, like an exotic blossom, come to bloom before It's appointed time in promise of what is to be; but at the important openings, late in September and early in October formal raiment, which is to say, evening gowns and wraps and brilliant costumes for coming recep- tions, debuts and weddings. occupy the center of the stage. They are chief interest now. and tailleurs be- come the incidentals-part of the show because they must be represent ed, but posing modestly in the back ground, subordinated to the array of wondrous. shimmering garb for gas light wear.
 Colors in evening gowns are to be soft, rather than vivid, this year; as colors in street costumes are neutral rather tSan definite. In adopting sombre tones for her out-of-door raiment, the Parisienne also expresses her sentiment of seriousness in deli cate, subtle shades for the evening. Pastel tints, indescribable orchid tints and ombre shadings produced by mounting one elusive tone over an- other, are In favor, and If here and there a radiant gown appears, 1t is by way of variety and not to be con- strued as representative type
 A New Color That Has Caught Paris
 Fancy. Bleu dHorizon is the lovely new shade fashionable now in Paris, and one learns with relief of a modsh color that has about it no martial sug- gestion. There Is. on a summers day, hay blue-yiolet where sky and sea have their meeting. and this impalpa- ble exquisite tint has been caught and held by the skilled manufacturers of fabrics in mousselines, chiffons, satins and other materials for evening cos tune. Sometimes the bleu d'horizon Is produced by mounting one shade of tulle over another-a most lovely effect when well executed. Jenny has accomplished this result in dance gown of blue, violet and flesh pink tulle, the flesh tone being placed be- tween the outer violet and the inner blue This misty, blue-violet tone pro- duced is indescribably beautiful. and there is no trimming on this lovely gown. unless one may term trim ming" the brooch of lapis lazuli ringed with amethysts, which catches togeth- CT the tulle of the decolletage.
 In faint primrose yellows Is a dance frock by Callot Soeurs which bears the usual Csllot stamp in trimmings of gold fringe and sequins; for Cal lot, you remember, adores brilliant ef- fleets. In seasons of great brilliance in evening apparel, the Callot gowns
 
 metal brocades. gold and silver laces and the like. This year brilliance Is reduced to its lowest dimension but Callot finds a way. nevertheless. to introduce the gleaming touch--as evl- dence, thls primrose dance frock pie tured. The foundation Is of primrose yellow satin, the gathered skirt hav- ing gold fringe; and over this is dropped a wide skirt of tulle in a fainter primrose shade; voluminous skirt indeed, with flounce of the tulle applied at the knee under orange silk embroidered spots outlined in gold cord. Two rows of darker orange spots border the skirt-hem and the orange and gold embroidery outlines the decolletage of primrose tulle The bodice is of primrose satin with a tab at the front to give the new princess effect below the waistline, and over the shoulders Is q guimpe of the tulle with sleeves of gold sequined net Notable is the double tulle flounce which is gathered around the waist separating at the front at either side of the princess bodice. This bouffant fiounce is in character with fall styles which call for all sorts of puffs, tucked up draperies and ruffies in the vicinity or the WalStlne, to give the effect of hips. So far, Paris allows only an effect of hips. Actual hips, of flesh, are considered gross and unbeautiful, but one may have all the hips one pleases. of tulle. shirred silk or chif- ion.
 The coiffure worn by the maid in the primrose tulle frock is the fash ionable fad for youthful heads. The shape of the head is well defined by tho low bandcau of fligree gold which Is drawn low over forehead and cars and the ends of the hair are tucked under at the sides in what Is called the Castle" style. a style affected by Mrs. Vernon Castle.
 A Brilliant Restaurant Gown In Black
 And Red.
 Rouge ct noir is the color scheme for . stunning supper and dance gown