The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-09-19
VEIL LIFTED RON PARIS FASHION PLANS
Brilliant Colors Provided for This Side
the Water Will Not Be Worn
Nv PariSienneS
So rl.i.,>nn uoyr Bn ,i>EnD.

TlIEliE are NO further secrets
about what Paris has designed
for American uses.
Just what pa%risicnnca viii
we remains to he seen. That If viii
inc.rdo mono Of the brilliant color
schcmya r"uyio.l for American buyers
is certain. and sine" there VII be none
of the usual opportunities in Paris Tor
individual exploitation of original
modes and few French women would
have the heart to take advantage OF
The ouuurtuni;ics e they existed. there
vii probably lie no suCh definite crys-
tal'..'ng ur STYLES as Is customary.
Later on we shall know what length
of SKIRT. line of waist, general
kayn boon most generally adopted .ih
Paris. but that is all, and the impress
sion left hy studs of the models turned
out 10y the famous French houses Is
one of confusion.
TOW could things bc otherwise? 1t
IS wonderful that the drcssmakers
have been able 10 do what they nave
done. Onc takes off ones hat to
their courage. their ability, their in
domitablc spirit. but It would Ice foolish
10 say. as d. many friendly enthusiasts,
that the French designers have given
MS their best this year. At bottom, the
praisc would not even Ice high COM
plim"nt.
There are admirable things among
the new models. charming things. The
designers have to a surprising degree
triu,uphcd over adverse circumstances
hu, the level Of Originality and beauty
is not so high as it has been in other
and happier years.
How could il he?
In the first place. what Frcnchmar
or ~FrcuChwomau but works with a
heavy heart? one Carnot do good WORK
with "a heavy heart. Some artists are
inCyuable of any work save good
work, but horror and suffering ar,
rot the inspiration for superlAt.vt
dance frocks. Then. too. there are
Unprecedented difficulties in the way
OF carving out ideas even where one
has the ideas. Paris artists in ores'
have always been fortunate in that
they could obtain anything needed fol
the working IA of an inspiration. II
the fabric. the trimming, the ornament
the one thing needed did not exist
word went ont and II WIS made
This year conditions are different
tn market is ragscd, unreliable
Mauy looms are silent. Thousands OF
workers are in the trenches. Money
has flowed into unusual channels.
Tho French dressmaNcrS have not
been able to conceive their ideas
and curry them out. They have been
OBLIGED to adapt their IDEAS to th'
conditions OF tho market, to use not
Tho THINGS they wanted but the things
the, could get. Especially in the a.
signing of models for the trade was
this auud.Cap a serious one, Tor mere
the maker was confronted 10y the
necrss!ty not only of supplyIrE at
tractive mod Is lut OF supplying also
materials for duplicating those models,
For a ur.yatc customer one could use
u fabric or trimu;n" of which only a
short length or a limited supply was
available, but for trade moGci thrr,
must be ample materials, and ample
suuplics OF rare and bcaliiltuI SUMS
w,r, distrcssinCly scarce.
An .r addition to al. this there was
.f... Ga. I.f,ys hy which fash.
n,.f.r. .,,.r th,tr course had beer
ION '''N.,I Tro ION seas
Rad been %uncharted. The modes Cd
oh' Tho ,,oj,s nr Tho pre.
Nt.u''" n..'rrsrs move from
~.l..,,nlo ros,rt 20 another
y, La arn., ~ cvnor,uants. takiu4
uSlLN '"v -"'r.,i,s for comm.
80 vr' H.. worm nv women o
r., '.,r ~,r..fr.l..y a, Cairo. on tn,
ptvar. IN Tangier. wherever tn,
T~aEht,n,hI. crov5s collect during tn,
n,,n,or has much TO DO with what il
ae,.rod =, five general public lu III,
snr,rp What creates a furor i'm Trou'
,,iue Dcauy.llc and the other sum
uer resorts finds an echo IN autumn
modes.
H,t This wear there has been ~ gay
eoora1 T.. Tl-uoe. Women Who coul'
or.tr,..t l. depended upon FOR on'
srr.ti...ll t..lc, q day have beer
wearing MUSES. uniforms or sohc.
black. There have been no l"Sh''n
able rendezvous. There has been NJ
stimulus for fashion designers no i'm.
pcrative demand from customers n
connection with rivals.
And considering all these things
Paris has, for the sake ui trade q
keeping work folk employed, m'nuiac
turers busy, money com.nH IN Gus
TONERS satisfied. prestige maintained
worked miracles.
If the autumn showing is not on IN