The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1915-01-17

setcoats Blossoming Out in Frils and Founces Again
After a Long Period of Repression Increased
Daintiness a Feature of the Latest Garments

vaienCienflAS on the SNAPPED neck anu
drawer bottoms and little fat pump
bows of satin ribbon which cross the
narrow straps on the shoulders and
are placed vertically. one at the point
OF the v decoiletage. holding few little
gathers that AFFORD bust fulness, and
one on the bottom OF each drawer leg,
gathering II up slightly on the outside
line This model Is made too with
shoulder straps OF ribbon instead Of
being cut TO run over the shoulder.
One OF the absurd yet rather fasci-
mating princess corset cover and drawer
combinations has suspenders OF batiste
In contrasting color fastening to the
drawer top and holding the garment
over the shoulder. A Fifth avenue i'm
porter shows this combination and
nightgowu TO correspond in palest flesh
pink with suspenders OF violet, and
one may smile at 1t. but one cannot
deny it's charm.
And. by the way, the very popular
lingerie department in this shop has
for buyer and general autocrat quiet
but efficient young woman of whom
feminists. casting about for evidence
Of woman's surprising ability. should
Adht HOkt. ~ lew lliOIIihS aSp Slfc Was
in a quandary. Her ordsrs placed
abroad had not be, n flled-were not
likely to be filed. Much of the en-
hroidcry for them was to have been
done In the district that Is now a
battle-ground. Much OF the material for
them was to have been turned out by
looms that have been destroyed or
carried into Germany. Something had
10 be done. and the young woman did
t.
She announced that she was going
abroad. There was t. chorus OF dis
enlargement, but the head Of the firm
gave her his blessing. also liberty to
draw on the firm. He believed in her.
He had had occasion
So she went abroad It's long story.
rhe firms representatives in Paris, being
Germans had left the place In the hands
OF a subordinate who had taken adj
vantage of the moratorium. The young
woman cabled for o rather appalling
amount Of money, got il, paid all manu-
facturers &C. got together largo num-
Der of Partisan and country needle
women who we're in Paris and out OF
work, gave them normal wages--at
time when women who have had ten
francs a day are working for two
| rented rooms and started a factory of
| her own.
Then she went about France. even
| into the war districts, and by hook or
crook, liberal expenditure and indont-
| tahlepersistence secured all the materials
| she needed Her accounts OF the ex-
pertences with which the quest WAS
| crowded are tremendously interesting,
but that's another story. The point Is
that she left the Paris workrooms in
good hands. with an ample force at
work on her designs. and hurried back
| to New York.
| Now the coming season has no ter
rors for her and already her new stock
is coming through without balk or de-
lay Looking at It's frothy frdvolity one
would hardly guess how much sheer
nerve and energy and cleverness had
gone into the obtaining Of It.
The Empire lines are asserting them
selves in lingerie as in frOcks. One
| finds them in many combination gar
ments and even more generally in night
| gowns. where they supply some alto
gether delightful effects. Most Of the
nightgowns have short sleeves open
| up the puISFue dtiu IiSld ny
| bows or straps or lacdngs ct ribbon. but
| the short closed kimono sleeve Is much
used too Here again one finds many
models of the utmost severity, the En-
pire line marked only by embroidered
| eyelets through whtch ribbon Is run
with a bow in front and the neck and
| sleeves merely picot edge finished or
| softened by very narrow valenctennes
and beading or merely scalloped and en-
broidered. with small eyelets for rib
| bon below the edge.
There are plenty Of more elaborate
! models too. models whose whole bodice
! sections are fashioned of lace and en-
broidery, or are exauisttely inset with
lace and beautified by tiny hand tucks
and hand embroidery. The square neck
lines are regarded with considerable ia
yor, but the round neck and pointed
neck have not lost prestige Crepe de
chine gowns seli readily and so do
gowns cf heavy chiffon cloth. though