Evening star., 1915-02-28

\W\V suspenders attached to the
" " skirts, women thought it
was a caprice of the moment, probably
invented as a thing to tide over the
dull season. But it seems as though
the fashion was to be incorporated
into the spring styles. Every woman
cannot wear it. The fashion demands
a certain figure and the semblance of
youth. II not youth itself. The
rounded back and the sloping shoulders
are not the type that goes suitably
with suspenders, or bretel1es. as we
call them when the wearer is woman.
The present ones are usually made
of the skirt material. They are sub
jected to the fanciful cutting that orna-
mented them in other days when the
designers thought it was attractive
10 run separate band across the back
between the shoulders and two bre-
telles over each shoulder to join with
a fancy buckle above the bust.
The creed of simplicity that will DOM
mate the fashions this season extends
to the accessories of dress as well as
10 it's foundation stones. The bretelles
are mannish in shape and are attached
TO the rather high-waisted skirt with
large bone buttons run through ex-
aggeratedly large buttonholes.
They may cross in the back or run
straight down the figure That de-
pends upon ones inclination And II
one does not wish them to be made of
the dress material there is chance
TO play up color scheme by using
bright tone of silk or even velvet.
The athletic woman, or rather the
one who affects the straight-out sim
plicity of mans attire for the open
air is apt to choose suspenders made
of the fabric of which the skirt and
coat are cut; the woman who Invariably
turns to the gewgaws of dress. who
cannot or will not wear plain effects,
will choose the ornamental kind.
Worn Under Sport Coats.
The demand for that species of out
door garments that we have learned
to call sport clothes. has brought out
these suspenders on top coats. as parts
of sweaters, as brilliant adjuncts to
white linen skirts worn with white
wash waists.
smart women were wearing the loosest
kind of coats, almost like capes thrown
well away from the front of the gown
and held on by means of two straps
that crossed in front and disappeared
in the back. This fashion probably
was responsible for the bretelles we
have with US now. There is little doubt
that women will accept them with
pleasure. 1OF tney pTOtlue d koou way
Of going without a jacket and yet re-
tanning some link between the skirt
and blouse.
The line between the two is not SO
strongly marked when the skirt fabric
goes over the shoulders, and through
out the entire gamut OF the spring
fashions there is an inclination shown
to observe this method.
The new white serge suits for the
south have bretelles of light blue taf-
teta, and the short jacket is touched
up with collar and cuffs to match.
The sailor hat that is sold for such
suits is of white straw and satin with
a blue band about the crown.
Corduroy in Favor.
II is surprising that there are not
more white serge suits; these were
looked for as soon as the southern
exodus began. but corduroy in sew
eral shades of tan. such as sand.
twine. putty. clay and beige. were
lavishly offered.
These Immediately found favor De-
spite their neutrality of tone. they
an admirable choice for between the
seasons, and. il Frightening was need
ed. 1t would be supplied by a hat.
Women may have turned their minds
adjustment and looked. therefore, with
suspicion on the white suit that needs
constant cleaning, or, it may be that
these neutral colors. because of their
fashion and their serviceability. have
made a strong appeal. Against white
serge there has always existed the
argument that 1t was rarely becoming,
and yet one can argue along that line
concerning the various neutral tones
that all the manufacturers have found
SO beguiling.
The usual bright coloring in the COM
plexion of the average American wom-
an helps her to sartorially digest many
shades OF dull tones that the pale wom-
an cannot wear. Whatever the pros
and cons of IT, however. the main fact
is that we are to wear more sand tones
than ever before. They have ousted
the much heralded covert cloth which
was such a close imitation of the mill
tary khaki and therefore sentimentally
exploited.
Corduroy Suits Like Uniforms. !
The dominating feature Of many of |
the spring suits in heavily ribbed cor |
duroy is the pointed fronts which the |
American tailors exploited early in |
the winter and put into their first |
lightweight coats. Added to these |