The Spectator., 1915-01-19
Count de Beaufort Describes Trip Along the Battle Line
 in West Flanders.
HIGH PRAISE FOR BELGIANS
Courteous and HospitabIe and Will Do Anything for the English-Com. fort in the Trenches-Germans Reply in Kind to Belgian
 Fire
By COUNT M. DE BEAUFORT.


 Belgium.-A Belgian officer return. ing with his men from a week in the trenches along the Yser was asked by one of his colleagues, whom he met on the road from Nieuport to Furnes. how things were going in front. "Oh, he replied, "all right, but it isn't ex- actly picnic, you know" That is ex- actly the answer I felt like giving today when 1 returned from a few days gypsying in West Flanders. It Is difficult to know where to start in relating my impressions. It seems as if for four days I have sat in huge moving picture theater and watched one film after another being reeled off, at the same time listening to an ex- tremely eloquent lecturer.
 How and why I was able to wander from village to trench. and from trench to village, or whatever is left of them, Is story which, perhaps, with many others. will be told later after the war. They are courteous, open-hearted. hospitable lot, these Bel gians, and anybody who seems to be English, either in appearance or ac- cent. can have anything they own "Ah. England" I hear from all sides, why they have certainly stood by us Les Anglais sons. chic" ("chic" In this sense of the word refers to character, not to appearance).
 The most interesting place in the line along the Yser these days has been the village of Styuvekenskerke. It lies on the left bank of the Yser. The main road from Dixmude to Per vyse runs about half mile to tho west of 1t, and the railroad about an- other half mile farther. Both lines are held by the Belgians. On Tuesday morning some of our advanced patrols yentured close to the village. and not seeing any life there, went in. The Germans had retired to the other side of the river. Promptly the village waa "retaken" by the Belgians. But of what use is a practically razed village anyhow It would have taken a great number of extra men to guard it at night against surprise attacks. so the officer in charge retired at sunset into his own lines along the railroad.
 Enjoy Temporary Armistice.
 On Wednesday morning the Ger mans were occupying the village again for the day. but this afternoon the Belgians might have had their tea there but for the sudden interruption of business of the only patisserie. The English sign. "Tea served at all hours" was still intact. We took it down. and and now 1t is heading the entrance to one of the sleeping trenches a mile back. At certain points around this village the advance lines are not fur ther than 1900 feet from each other, and have seen soldiers on both sides walk about unconcerned without a shot being fired on either side. But in the distance, one hears from time to time the roar of the guns.
 My wanderings landed me near a lonely Belgian field gun. one of the "75's," in the neighborhood of Per vyse. I knew the officer In charge. and was promptly invited to stay. and take pot luck. an invitation which. needless to say accepted. Somehow one seems to be always hungry, yet one eats more and oftener than at any other time. His underground dwelling had been made quite habit able. He insisted that I should take the "fauteuil' in the shape of the only soaphon present, while he balanced himself on one-legged piano stool.
 Our meal was simple enough. but plentiful Dry biscuits. sardines. ap- ples and cold coffee. Fires of any sort, either inside or outside. are strict. ly forbidden in the lines. A smoking chimney is asking for shrapnel Quite an amusing incident took place here The lieutenant told me during lunch con that every time he fired shot, the Germans answered him in kind: if he sent shrapnel. they promptly sent a shrapnel back: when he fired . shell. shell whistled back. After luncheon he illustrated his story. and indeed the Germans seemed to be in . joking mood. He fired shrapnel tnd shell in turn: a few minutes later a shrapnel and a shell whistled back over our heads.
 l asked for the commandant, and expected to find him also in one of the underground dwellings. but was directed to one of the houses oG the outskirts of the village. His offices there?" asked. looking at the remains of what had been a little villa Ger tainly. monsieur. Follow me-" said the little soldier.
 Ruins Everywhere.
 On all sides We were surrounded by blackened bricks and burnt wood. fail. en walls. and broken furniture. Finally. we arrived near a cellar door and the