The Birmingham age-herald., 1915-06-20

Professor creoet.
 reasonable expenditure in following fash- ions is most harmful.
 These abuses, this tyranny of uniform ity in nearly all outer manifestations of life, lead notably to the banishment of provincial costumes, the representatives of climate, products of local art, so full of interest from an historical standpoint, picturesque, stable, durable, which are handed down from generation to genera tion. Among these costumes of historic interest are the Caux cap recalling the steeple headdress of ladies of the four teenth century; the little Nicaean hat reproducing the coiffure called "Thessa- lonian" by the Greeks, and the antique Phrygian hat, still worn by the Arle- sians. Although formerly there was va riation according to place and uniform ity as to the season, we now tend more and more toward a uniformity as to place and variation as to season.
 Human fancy thus asserts it's suprem- acy over animals, obliged always to wear the same livery. Austere philosophers have understood perfectly the aesthetic
 
 nan, writing on Marcus Aurelius, admits that "wofhan in dressing herself well full fills duty; she practises an art, an ex- quisite art, in a sense the most charm ing of arts. A woman's toilet, with its refnements, is great art in it's way. Ages and countries which know how to carry it out well are great ages, great countries"
 The appearance of a new style of gar <1, vs1tt> nation is taking place in the intellect customs and business of a people The rise of the Chinese Republic, for in- stance, led to doing away with plaited hair and to the adoption of the European costume. ~
 Taine wrote this profound sally. My decided opinion is that the greatest change m history was the advent of trousers. It marked the pas sage of Greek and Roman civilization to the modern. Nothing is more difficult to alter than universal and daily custom. In order to take away mans clothes and dress him up again you must demolish and remodel him."
 It Is also an equally philosophical con- clusion which M. Louis Bourdeau gives In his interesting "Histoire de rhabille- ment ct de la parure": There where the same style of clothing is used for cen turies, as among barbarous peoples, one has the right to say that civilization re- mains stationary. There, on the other hand, where, as in Europe, garments are subject to continual notifications, one may see evidence of great comfort and rapid progress Far from be- Ing custom of incurable frivolity, the changes of fashions mark high civiliza- tion, subject to change because 1t is growing and because it has wide lati- tude to refine it's ideal in proportion as It's productions are varied" Again, it is necessary that that versatility and re- hnement be not turned to extravaganza or to impropriety, compromising the reputation for good taste, elegance and distinction.
 What can we do for or against aash- ion? Can we direct it or can we prevent It's abuse? Let us find out first the power of the law, religious or civil. Very early Popes and councils strove in vain against the low-neck gown and the dresses terminating in the serpent'ss tail" Kings initiated them CharlemapneH setting the example, but sumptuarv de. crees have had no more effect than ordi- nances against duelling.
 M. Victor du Bled reports that Phi,;nne le Bel was urged to promulgate some sumptuary laws by his wife, who. mak. ing her formal entrance at Bruges in laol, saw crowd of common people so richly clothed that she cried out with vexation. T thought myself the queen, and l see hundreds of them" Charles TX. prescribed hip pads of more than five feet, gold chains, pieces of jewelry with or without enamel In 1867 he regulated the garments of each class, permitting silk only to princesses and duchesses, forbidding velvet-without any lasting success.
 Fashion is, apparently, beyond regu lation by war.