davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

IN EALLY it is troublesome thing
TX to pack up ones clothes for A
ON short visit; perhaps more trou-
blesome than to pack them for Il long
visit. A year or two ago. when skirts
were scant and bodices filmy. one could
get a weekend wardrobe into a suit
case without trouble. But now. when
skirts are full and collars are high.
sleeves are long and the fashionable
fabrics are rather clumsy, the getting
Of enough clothes for a weekend visit
into the kind of luggage one is sup
posed to carry on a weekend visit is
something of a problem.
The weekend trunks. which are
large enough to hold a good many
clothes and yet small enough for a
porter to carry. small enough, too. to
be slowed in an automobile, are USE
full for the short visit But, lacking
one of these. a big suitcase and small
leather bag must be made to hold ones
clothes.
The woman who does much week end
visiting soon gets together various lit
tie travelling conveniences. She has a
leather case of folding hangers, sew
eral cretonne or silk cases for holding
her toilet accessories. handkerchiefs.
bedroom slippers and shoes. But the
woman who travels with little luggage
must beware too many convenient
cases. Attractive they may be, but
they take up room that is often needed
for clothes. Tissue paper answers the
purpose Of protecting ones frocks and
takes less room than many of the
rather cumbersome cases,
X =
Take thin neglige, pair of the
lightest sort of bedroom slippers
heelless cretonne or silk mules are a
good choice-and lingerie that takes
up little room. Really, in this way a
good deal of space may be saved. 1t
is too bad, so far as the weekend
visitor is concerned. that petticoats
have returned to style. for space must
be left for petticoat to wear with
ones evening frock However, this
need not be bulky; the taffeta petticoat
may be worn under the street frock or
suit.
Lingerie. stockings, necessary toilet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

have been possible for women to have
gone about on days of record Septem-
Der heat in sealskin collars and muffs.
There is no settlement of the fashion
question yet. Happily. the various
styles which were brought over for our
selection are swinging from one sill
houette to another like a pendulum.
There Is reason to be happy about it,
because it spells a certain degree of
safety for the woman who knows what
she wants and can find it in the hetero-
geneous assortment that is offered.
Some of the best American designers
are insisting on the moderately narrow
skirt, but the skirt of last autumn is
definitely done for and must be shelved.
The wide tunic over the skinny under
skirt belongs to day that is done. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

same thing could be found by their
clientele at half the price in large
shops? They knew full we'll what
every one should know. that it is the
perfection of the fit that makes or mars
good gown, and that 1t Is not possible
to get this in a frock that was made
for the majority.
Maybe the dawn of wealth is only
delayed, however. and we shall yet see
a new and amazing condition crystal
lize in American affairs; also, the sea-
son and the clothes for it coming to-
gether. Now we are SO forehanded that
we wear straw hats with the first snow
and furs with the first heat We evil
IDENTIFY like this piquant contrast be-
tween the thermometer and the fash
ions. We must like it or it would not
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24
Tempting Tidbits for
the Seasons Festivities
for Both Old and
Young.

81 NY sort of Halloween festivities
~ demand some sort of refresh
q ment, and something a little diff
ferent from the refreshments served
on other days fthc year.
If you are giving a Halloween dance
next Saturday night you must plan a
dainty supper that suggests witches
and bats and cats. at the same time 1t
appeals to the appetite. If you are
simply acting as hostess to the chill
dren of the neighborhood who march in
costume from house to house demand
ing pennies and cakes. you must still
have cakes of an unusual sort on hand.
Nuts and raisins. cider and apples are
ingredients that should enter into al
most every Halloween feast. At a Hal
loween dance the refreshments might
consist of cider punch. ice cream in ap-
pie molds, small nut cakes and sailed
nuts. If more elaborate refreshments
are served the cider punch should still
be served, with hot bouillon, oyster GRO
QUOTES and nut, celery and apple sal
ad, nut sandwiches. ices and cakes and
coffee. If the menu Is written out it
might read:
Witches Broth
Oyster Croquettes
Halloween Salad
Sprite Sandwiches Spooks' Ices
Cakes Coffee
Cider Punch
In the tip of each croquette little
stick headed with black cat or a
witch or jack-o'-lantern or some
other appropriate symbol could be
thrust. These little favors can be
bought for a very small price. The
salad could be served in an apple shell
or in a ring of red apple pairing and
the sandwiches could be cut III the
shape of bats or cats. The ices could
be nodded in appropriate forms and the
cakes could be iced with white, deco
rated with appropriate symbols traced
in chocolate.
Y
" For children all sorts Of sweets of
enchanting appearance can be made.
| Witches can be cut from sugar -cooky
dough, and SO can cats and bats. Eyes
can be made with a bit Of raisin or
with small dried currants.
Little cakes can be decorated with
| chocolate on white icing, as already
Suggested. The decorations can take
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

as Paris gowns and automobiles.
square sapphires and fragonards. Some
one had rubbed Aladdins lamp. and
the glow promised to bring the warmth
of hope in the hearts of those who had
been cast down for three years.
No more did people gather around
and deplore the days when women or
dered twelve gowns at $3.50 apiece and
needed furs and jewels for each cos
tune; they rubbed their hands and said
among themselves with glee that II one
made a million in a week in Wall
street, and brokers were fainting from
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24
Halloween Salad.

One large cupful of diced apples, one
cupful of finely cut celery. one banana
sliced thin, the chopped meats of a
dozen walnuts and one-half cupful
of seedless raisins. Serve with cream
dressing in nests of lettuce leaves.
If a sweet dressing is preferred, here
is one that will be found satisfactory:
One-half jar of heavy cream. one
tablespoonful of sugar, small pinch
of salt and two tablespoonfuls of lemon
Juice added gradually. Whip, and when
ready to serve sprinkle the top of the
dressing with finely chopped walnuts.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24
Halloween Sweets and Goodies

point for the pollywog's head, and in
this two currant eyes should be put
The other end forms the tail. The hea
end should be rather short, standing a
little above the body which the knot
forms.
Peppermint babies are good Halloween
sweets. To make them you will need
four small sticks of peppermint candy
one of the largest round peppermints
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

quite dull in the clothes department.
struck lively tune from the opening
day. and anger. irritation, hope. dis
enlargement followed each other in
rapid succession among those whose
business it is to supply the nation
with it's seasonable wearing apparel.
Wall street produced the first series
of thrills. The overnight fortunes
made there sounded like the old days
to those who have luxuries to sell, such
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24
Autumn Leaves.

One way to preserve autumn leaves is
to dip them in melted paraffin or wax
and allow them to dry. Another way is
to dissolve two ounces of white shellac
in a gallon of alcohol and dip the
leaves In the solution, then hang them
only advisa BILE when preserving a lot
|of them for decorative purposes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

SUNDAY MENU.
BREAKFAST.
Baked Apples. Oatmeal.
Scrapple. Baked Potatoes.
Johnny Cake. Gomez.
DINNER
Cream of Celery Soup.
Olives India Relish.
Nut Turkey Roast. with Dressing
Ia Ia Battle Creek.
Rarberry jelly. Potatoes Persillade.
Cabbage Salad.
Pumpkin Pie. Cheese.
Apples. Pears.
SUPPER.
SealIoped Potato. Frizzled Dried Beef.
Brown Bread and Butter.
Homemade Tomato Pickles.
Apple Butter. Crullers.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

the form Of bats and witches, crescent
moons, ghosts and stars.
Even bread can be made into Hal
loween rolls. They are just pollywogs,
these rolls, but any animal takes on the
holiday character in children's eyes. To
make them roll strip of bread dough
about two inches in circumference and
six inches long. Tie a knot in it and
shape each end to a point. One end
should be puffed out bit below the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

Some haze meat and Gamma eat,
And some would eat that want 1t:
But we haze meat, and we can eat,
Sac let the Lord be thankit.
Burns Grace Before Meat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24
Small Accessories of
Well Dressed Women

foundation skirt exactly initiate small
punches Of artificial flowers that catch
the tulle overskirt in three or foul
places.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

t@~l He dreSSmakerS VINO went TO
Paris for the autumn and win
ter models are still complain
q ing over the high price of all
such merchandise. The French design
ers explained the rise in price, if not
In values. by the excuse that fabrics
were exceedingly difficult to get and
clothes were turned out at more cost.
That does not sound plausible. but
no protests on the part of our buyers
had any influence on the conditions; 1t
was pay that price or leave the gowns,
and no buyer could afford to do the
latter after having risked his life to
cross the ocean.
Every one knows that the sewing
women Of Paris have been the object
of almost unlimited charity from
America; their plight was brought to
the attention of those who had money
to give by the various papers or con-
Germs who had intimate dealings with
this class of workers in France, and
1t is only natural to suppose that the
sewing people there reaped quite a
little harvest from the wild epidemic
Of fashion shows that swept our conti-
n.snt since last October.
There were several reasons for Civ
ing these shows. not all of which was
charity, unless 1t was the kind that
begins at home. but whatever the mo-
tive of Observation-Disclosures or adver-
tisement. the fact remains that Amer
lea literally supported the class IN
Paris that makes the models for the
states.
One magazine here had turned over
100000 in few weeks last winter and
that was only one draft resulting from
two entertainments: multiplying this
by the hundreds and you will form
some idea of what went on across the
seas. Now. judging from this constant
performance the last twelve months
one would think that the midinettes.
the embroiderers. the cutters and fit
ters would have been enchanted to
get work for three months at their
regular wages and that the mills which
have SO much material stored away.
and the shops with thousands of yards
Of materials on their shelves since last
September. would have sold the stock
out at half price. If necessary.
Instead Of that, everything was
raised in price. The buyers paid more
for a gown made during this slack
time Of work than they did in the
height of splendor in Paris. all on the
excuse that workers and materials
were to be paid more.
It makes little difference to the av-
erage American that Paris saw her op-
pertunity to reap harvest during the
one-half season in order that she
might not starve for three months;
every country would do the same with
the same opportunity, but what will
happen to US IL the already exorbitant
prices for drst-class clothes are raised.
Will We be able to have more than
one frock? Won't one hat be COM
PEELED to do duty for all occasions?
Won't the expensive dressmakers de-
feat their own aim, for American wom-
en- are not compelled to buy. as were
the American buyers in Paris who went
there for that purpose, and that only.
The safety spot lies in the depart
ment stores and the small, simply
priced speciality shops. which are ris-
ing up like mushrooms. They produce
copies of any French costume in less
expensive fabric at one-fifth the price.
sometimes less.
The autumn, which promised to be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

Millinery continues to be simple. Cut
steel Is used with good effect in mill
merry trimming.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24
Prices of Clothes Are Now Higher Than Ever Bel

coats of last autumn are not as hope
less as the skirts and bodices, but posi-
bly, IL is easier to get new suit than
alter an old skirt.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

makers had intended they should do,
with the excuse of Paris that clothes
must cost more on account of the scare
ity of workers and fabrics, the larger
needed and the tax on human life oc-
casioned by going through the war zone
for the Paris models.
Then everything was left cold and
dead by the strike. No one remained
to finish a garment that was ordered.
before the doors on 9Th avenue. there
was an increasing line of policemen,
keeping in line groups of strikers.
Women and men who had risked lives
and gambled with thousands of dollars
on the chance of presenting vast
variety of apparel to the American
woman were Wringing their hands and
wondering how they were going to
placate all those irritated and angry
women who had ordered warm clothes
The gray skies returned. The chance
Of making "a killing" as they express
it, was dwindling away. 1t looked as
though the hand of destiny was laid at
their threats.
This was the condition in New York,
where the American fashions are set
Women were furious, to put it strongly
The shops reaped the benefit in selling
ready-to-wear clothes which were ex-
| cellent copies of all the new French
clothes, the wider facilities of the lafge
organizations enabling them to COPY
| imports in half the time that the small
and exclusive houses could do it.
| Even this latter fact was an added
thorn in the flesh of the dressmakers,
for what use was it to provide ex-
pensive copies of French gowns if the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24


However, no one can lay a finger on
any one fashion and say 1t is the ruling
one. There seems still to be uncer-
tainty to choose for an established
winter style.
The cuirass bodice is one of the re-
vived fashions that women greet with
approval. It saves one the need of
worry about the waist line. No matter
what the new corsets are unable to do
to flesh that has hardened into stub
bornness, the medical bodice, made
Of any cloth. hides thick line and
leaves the onlooker ignorant of the
size of the waist beneath.
The metal cloth is preferred by Jenny
for these bodices, and she uses them
over voluminous skirts of tulle or lace.
Sometimes the lace is of metal over i
taffeta foundation, and the bodice is of
heavily brocaded satin or velvet. Blue
predominates as a color. Black is rare
ly used in this kind of frock. al
though Premet has sent over model
with a white tulle skirt embroidered in
rhinestones that has bodice of black
plush. This has straight lines at the
side and the medieval decolletage, but
IT does not extend as low on the hipS
as most of these bodices do.
Doeuillet has sent over a remarkably
good looking gown which has pink
velvet skirt with train and a straight
cuirass of colored crystals closely stud
ded on net There are no sleeves,
merely shoulder straps. This bodice
may have been suggested by one worn
by the famous dancer, Otero, in Paris.
She had asked her maid to make her
a jeweled cuirass in order to display
at one time all the gems that had
been given her by various admirers.
This Doeuillet gown is too brilliant
for the average woman and occasion;
it must be worn by one who mas
enough personality to carry it off and
to an occasion that is worthy of SO
much glitter.
The woman who intends to incorpo-
rate this kind of gown into her every
day wardrobe will find that black vel
vet and lace can be combined into an
admirable afternoon frock. and broad
cloth and velveteen can be used for
street frock.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

The epidemic of coachman's collars
which came into fashion with the high
crown position hat have been so COM
monty worn that large number OF
women have insisted that furriers and
dressmakers should invent something
else The consequence is that all kinds
of chin-enveloping collars have made
their appearance.
Georgette has wonderfully success
full suit of kings blue velvet with q
partly pleated skirt, over which is
knee-length coat, owing its distinction
to an exaggerated version of the high
turnover collar that we have borrowed
from the costumery of men during the
French and the American revolutions.
Nearly all the cuffs used on these
coats are large enough to serve as
a muff, and it is quite the fashion
now for women to slip theii hands
into their sleeves. Chinese fashion.
On this blue velvet model the Guns
and collar are of silver fox, but u
has been copied for everyday use IN
rough homespun with collar and cufs
of lynx.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24

Bernard has projected popular suit
into the autumn costumery which Is
made of black velvet with white fox
collar and cuffs. The skirt is moder-
ately narrow, the coat extravagantly
full from the waist down. The collar
is the chief feature of the coat. 1t is
high enough to reach the hat in the
back and deep enough to cover the
shoulder at sides and back and reacn
the waist line. .
This collar is significant because II
marks a new era in neckwear; each
week the collar to coat assumes
we'll away from the neck and is
strongly reminiscent of the end of the
eighteenth century. This is good
point to watch well. 1t is bound to
develop.
Copyright. 1914. by the Mcclure Newspaper
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-24
Paris Lays Heavy
Toll on Buyers-None
of the New Fabrics Is
Difficult to Obtain, Nor
Are the Gowns Com
plicated, But Prices
Continue to Soar.

NEW YORK, October 90. 1915.
EITE dressmakers who went to
Paris for the autumn and win
ter models are still complain
I'M he iol, rric AZ oil
Audubon Republican. [volume] (Audubon, Iowa) 1894-1925, 1915-10-14

I'm coming to that. This escape
we read about happened on certain
day in April. 1t was the very day on
which poppa met me on my way back
from Florida. and we took the eleven
thirty train north that night. You
haven't forgotten that Mr.. Griswold
was a passenger on that same train?"
But, goodness gracious. Miss Mar.
gerry! any number of people were pas
sengers on that train. You surely
wouldn't"
"Hush!" she said, and through the
lace window hangings Broffin saw her
lift warning finger. What am
telling you. Mr.. Raymer. is in the
strictest confidence; we mustn't let
breath Of it get out. But that wasn't
all. Mr.. Griswold was dreadfuly sick
and. of course. he couldn't tell us any.
thing about himself. But while he was
delirious he was always muttering
something about money. money; mon
ey that he had lost and couldn't find. or
money that he had found and couldn't
lose. Then when we thought he
couldn't possibly get well. Doctor Der.
tie and / ransacked his suitcases for
cards or letters or something that
would tell US who he was and where
he came from. There wasn't the lit.
tlest thing!"
(TO REr CONTINyrEn,
Audubon Republican. [volume] (Audubon, Iowa) 1894-1925, 1915-10-14
SYNOPSIS.

Kenneth Grswold, an unsuccessful
writer because of socialistic tendencies,
holds up Andrew Galbraith. president OF
the Bayou State Securities, In the presi-
dents private Office and escapes with $780,
WV In cash. BY original methods he es-
capes the hue and cry and goes aboard
the Belle Julie as a deckhand. Charlotte
Farnham of Wahaska, Mimi, who had
seen him cash, Galbraiths check in the
bank, recognizes him. and sends letter
OF betrayal to Galbraith anonymously.
Griswold is arrested on the arrival OF the
boat at st. Louis, but escapes from his
captors He decides on Wahaska, MINI,
as hiding place. and after Quitting
himself properly, takes the train. Gris-
void falls Ill on the sleeper and is cared
Tor and taken to her home in Wahaska
oy Margery Grierson. daughter of Jasper
Grierson, the financial magnate of Wa
naska. Margery finds the stolen money
IN Griswold's suitcase. Broffin. detective,
takes the trail. Margery asks her father
TO get Edward Raymer into financial hot
water and then help him out of IL. Girls
void RECEIVERS to find the stolen money
gone. He meets Margerys social circle
and forms IA friendship with Raymer, the
iron manufacture. Broffin comes to Wa
the anonymous letter to Galbraith. Mar
gerry takes Griswold to the safety deposit
vault and turns the stolen money over to
him. Charlotte bluffs out Broffln and
Margery begins to watch him. Griswold
puts his money In Raymer's plant and
commences to rewrite his book. Griswold
goes to dinner at Doctor Farnham's and
e not sure that Charlotte has not recog-
mixed him.
Audubon Republican. [volume] (Audubon, Iowa) 1894-1925, 1915-10-14

the now quite complete fulfillment Of
the wishing prophecy. Miss Farnham
was going to prove to be all that the
most critical maker of studies from
life could ask in a model; a supremely
perfect original for the character of
Fidelia in the book. Moreover. she
would be his tombstone for the truths
and verities; even as Margery Grier-
son might, II she were forgiving
enough to let bygones be bygones. hold
the mirror up to nature and the pure
humanities. Moreover, again, what
ever slight danger there might have
been in a possibility Of recognition
was danger outlived. II the first
meeting had not stirred the sleeping
memories In Miss Farnham, subse-
quent ones would serve only to widen
the gulf between forgetfulness and rec
objection by just such distances as the
Wahaska Griswold should traverse In
leaving behind him the deckhand of
the Belle Julie.
How much this might have been
modified II he had known that the man
whose face Miss Farnham had seen at
the window was silently tracking him
through the tree-shadowed streets is
a matter for conjecture. Also. 1t is
Audubon Republican. [volume] (Audubon, Iowa) 1894-1925, 1915-10-14

to be presumed that much, IL not all,
OF the complacency would have van
ished If he could have been an unseen
listener in the Farnham sitting-room.
dating from the time when little Miss
Gilman battered off to bed, leaving
the father and daughter sitting to-
gether under the reading lamp.
At first their talk was entirely OF
the window apparition, the daughter
insisting upon its reality, and the IA
ther trying to push 1t over into the
limbo of things imagined. Driven
finally to give all the reasons for her
belief in the realities, Charlotte related
the incident of the afternoon.
BY this time the good Doctor BERTHE
had become the indignant Doctor Ber-
tie.
I'VE can't have that at ALI" he said
incisively. you did your whole duty
In that bank matter; and 1t was a
good deal more than most young wom-
en- would have done. I'm not going
to have you prosecuted and harassed-
not one minute! Where is this fell
low stopping?"
The daughter shook her head. Il
don't know. He gave me his card. but
1t has the New Orleans address only"
Give it to me and I'll look him up
tomorrow"
The card changed hands, and for a
! few minutes neither of them spoke.
Then the daughter began again.
i've had another shock this eve
ming. too." she said. speaking this time
in low tones and with eyes downcast.
This Mr. Griswold-did understand
you to say that he had lost all OF his
money!"
Yes; practically all Of 1t" said the
father, without losing his hold upon
what a certain great London physician
was saying through the columns of the
English medical journal.
But afterward. long after Charlotte
had gone up to her room. he remem-
bered, with a curious little start Of
half-awakened puzzlement, that some
one. no longer ago than yesterday, had
told him that young Griswold was
rich-or II not rich. at least well
fixed"