davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

tips, but very modest gentleman 10
boot. There was Nine. Fernandes
acknowledged one of the best dressed
women of Paris. There was a milieu
as chic as any that could be secured
In New York.
Everything was planned and carrie
out with the French attention to de-
tail. with the French understanding o
lie grand chic. The models were those
designed since the fall buying was
done, absolutely new so far as indi-
vidual detail was concerned, If often
reminiscent. Some of them. like tho
Spanish models Of Louvin and Worth,
struck a new note. Poiret was once
more in evidence. How we hav.
missed Poiret the artist in Poiret the
soldier!) The costumes were de
signed not with the demands of the
American buyer in view. but with the
! designers idea Of what was art as 8
guide.
And the result? Well, it was the
| old spirit that We have seemed. in tn.
commercialiZing of French dressmak
ing. to lose in a very considerable de-
gree. 1t was the old French spirit o
the earlier French masters Of dreS
with the added knowledge Of the newer
generation.
The fete was a joy to lovers OF artis-
tic dress, a triumph for the Syndicat
and its friends. Everything was ex-
quisitely conceived, eXquisltely carried
| out, and n there was little actua'
novelty In line, II some chroniclers In
claiming that the models shown would
make all earlier models look old fash.
Toned, allowed their enthusiasm Il
carry them beyond the boundary Of
fact, there Is no shadow Of doubt thai
in coloring, materials, details, even thu
models comparatively familiar in gen
eral character were far beyond theil
earlier prototypes In artistic merit.
1t was a wonderful show, but-ther,
u always . but.
This time the but IL an arraignmen
! OF the American women's taste and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

Youth Must Have It's Fling and Nobly
Has Paris Risen i'm Sadness to
Duty of Costuming Folly

b~utante's evening frocks are mad. n,
Of these things.
Some Of them fall in unbroken All.
ness from waist TO hcn. harinr prrh.
ably at the bottom and perhaps h,lA
out at bottom by cords or reeds Or ev,n
by hoopskirts such as Worth Ar.
nishes, though q hoop 10 an uncom.
Portable and u%ngraceful thing for
dancing purposes even when held on,
by clinging and apologetic "frilies."
Other frocks have the hip drapa,iss
and flounces or pre- caught Up in ops
way or another to show piquAnt under.
! skirts. Tho two types are illustrated
in our large out, but Of course there
are innumerable variations upon IN.
themes.
The farthingale, distending the dh,ps
| with the skirt falling straight below
has been tried, and now. with LAWN
emphAticaily sponsoring II in he-
Spanish models. may And q hold upon
public fancy. though ii 10 not likely 10
be generally accepted.
Tuilea and laoes are lovely and ',dsbu.
tantish." but with dancing every night
even the most extravaxant o. mothers
feels that more practical frochu are
needed, II only to supplement- the airy
| ones, and for these the soft. crisp t..
feta brocadeS are greatly liked-lNcdic.
and skirt both of the elk. almos.
wholly untrimr1ed or softened BY tus
q little net Of lace.
Satin 10 used in similar fashion. and
I-As>~A a0nto and Satfp - Ae1,<-t.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

really must have II: and. after all,
We can be aged and rheumatic Tor
many years. One can be Q debutante
only for n season.
The variety in modish lines among
winter clothes Is even lore evident In
debutante wear. than elsewhere. for
young and slender figures lend them
selves to every whimsy Of fashion
and the young person IL wearing
every type Of frock. from the pinched
in and pufed up Vatican dance
frock to the straight, pipe stem trot-
ting frock Of serge or velvet.
The dance frocks are what one
thinks Of first in connection with the
debutante. Imagination pictures her
always awhirl In a rainbow maz OF
silk and gauze and net and lace:
and the reality justines the Image
where evening social functions are
| concerned.
In spite Of prophecy. Of disparaee.
ment. Of ~encroaching newer fads
dancing holds II ow'n with the debu-
tante crowd. There may be less OF
IL here and there. Some Of the Older
folk who danced because It vas i'm
possible to go about without dancing
may he dropping out with signs OF
relief. but the debutantes are dane.
ing and their dance frOcks are, in the
language Of their wearers, perfect
dreams.
Tulle il the material most in evi'
dence. Impractical OF course. expen'
sive because Of the quantities needed
and its ~pcrishable nature. but where
money and wear need not be consid'
cred the ideal material for the de
butante's evening frock. so incorrigibl,
youthful, and frivolous and buoyant.
The delicate pinks. silver trimmed
are possibly first choice of the debu
tantes for evening frocks. but all o
the youthful colors are represented
and white VI course is the traditional
thing.
Taffeui. plain or brocaded. liz mucl
used. but satin has persistent!
claimed its place and Is in high favor
though usually in combination Will
tulle or lace Full skirts, short enough
fer comfort. but not eXtravagantly SO
dainty p%etticoats Of tulle or lace. oftel
Of silver lace. showing here or there
simple bodices with the slightest o
sleeves, waist lines usually just
trihe shortened. little artificial flower
tucked somewhere among the fold,
riuch ribbon trimming. flatly applied
quilted. looped. floating. forming wild
free panels set on as fiounces. the de
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

ITO those who are tired of the time
honored turkey and goose for
the Christmas dinner there are
a number OF substitutes, all equally
good. to serve on the turkey platter.
The following menus name a few OF
these substitutes and what should he
served with them:
GUINEA FOWL MENU.
Fruit Canape.
Chicken Bouillon.
Lobster Chops, Sauce Tartar.
Roast Guinea Fowl.
Boiled Squash, Peas. Scalloped Bananas.
Artichoke Salad.
Tutti Frutti Cream. Pound Cake.
Put in a small white enamel sieve
the segments Of n grapefruit and set
over a bowl OF cracked ice to cool and
drain. When ready to use mix with
the fruit pulp n heaping tablespoon
Of heart of palm relish. Spread on the
toast rounds and dust lightly with
paprika.
Take two cups OF finely cut cold
boiled lobster. add to II salt, pepper
and a teaspoon Of chopped parsley,
Stir into one cup Of cream three table,
spoons Of flour and one spoonful of
butter, let II come to a boil and mix
IL with the lobster. When cool enough
to handle form the mixture into chops.
dip in fine cracker crumbs and fry In
hot fat; drain and stick a claw in
each, so forming the chop. 'Peas may
be served with each chop II so desired
Stun and truss tine guinea fowls the
same as the turkey, cutting Off the
necks to make the French breasts. TIC
the sage and onion stufing add a dozen
boiled and finely dhopp>G chsstnuts
| and two dozen seeded raieins. 0arnisf
| the serving platter with small savory
| rice c%roquettes.
Take six Arm bananas and aftel
peeling chop coarsely, add to them
cup of bread crumbs, pepper. salt. 6
beaten egg, a cup of cream and a hal
cup OF honey. Fill we'll buttered rame'
kins with the mixture, busting the toI
Of each with a little grated cheese.
One bottle OF prepared salad arti
chokes will be sufficient for the salad
Remove and drain the artichokes, ad,
to them one cup Of chopped celery. on
finely chopped red pepper, the whit
heart Of two heads Of chickory Gu
ine and one small cucumber choppe'
very fine after the seeds have been re
moved. Toss In mAyonnaise that
sharp and dust with papriha.
still other substitutes for turkey In
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12
LESSONS IN CONVERSATION

versationa1ist soon acquires the knack
of disseminating a topic tina, promises
unpleasant argument.
The classes In story telling which
are often included in the curriculum
Of the modern training school brng
out some necessary points in the art
Of conversation. such as simplicity ~
expression. clearness OF utteranCe and
the lights and shades Of modulstlon.
There Is nothing that will So quickly
eliminate any undesirable habit II In.
distinct speech. nervousness in man.
ner or giggling as a course in sto-r
telling and conversation.
Where the pupil is a young girl just
making her appearance in society. con.
~versation lessons are invaluable as an
aid to self-possession. The latest play,
a recent novel. or any other item ~
interest to the younger set is usually
assigned such a pupil for the first few
lessons until she learns to concentrate
on a more serious line " topics.
In the case of a busy society woman
with little time TO keep M with tie
current vents as presented IN tie
daily papers and magazines, tho visit
ing teacher OF conversation is q bless
ing. She comes equipped with all the
latest subjects Of conversation suited
! to the interests of the circle in which
this particular pupil moves and not
on pumps her full Of Information. bit
draws out her " impressions ~ the
different topics until she IS ADJ" 10
hold her own in a general CONVERSE
ton along these or kindred INES
Where a teacher is not possible
good work in the improvement 81 ones
conversational ability can h" dor" h'
a little group Of %congenial women WIN
mutual interests. Each member ~ ="
class should be furnished with = I'
Of topics Of the conversati"n ~ VIZ
next meeting and as much d"hnl'' ~
formation gathered Concernlr- 'N'h
as possible. As the aim " Suc1 "a
class is general conversation on a
I given subject. there must b." q ''t9''-
spirit whose business il j. I" lNI' "'
Interruptions and irrelevant r"nlstN'
and limit the time taken 10y "h'' on
No member should talk cunSecuoN'N
for more than n minute without AWE
the others a chance IL speak, WN''
the purpose Of the meeting y inc on
couragement OF general conversation
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

sibalities. Youth is never ignored in
fashion making. though middle age
sometimes has reason to feel neglected,
II not abused.
And apropos of that last Fashion
Fete, though 1t Is old news at this
date, no one who writes OF fashions
can AFFORD to pas IL over without a
word. There were wheels within
wheels so far as the commercial and
psychological sides of the fete were
concerned; but that it was a trium-
plant ~vindication Of French claims to
fashion supremacy no n can deny.
There has been much talk about
that vaunted supremacy since the be-
ginning Of the war. When all France
was staggering under blows well nigh
mortal 1t was natural enough that
even the greatest admirers Of French
fashions should fear a falling of in
the quantity and quality OF the
f-en,n output. should see a POSSIBLE
isy Gar domestic designers to forge
forward. THE Sun admitted the
French handicap M the American
opportunity. but said that France
would in sporting p%arlance. come
b-S."
And France has come back-has
come back superbly. t~riumphantly. in
the consummately dramatic French
way.
Even last year., in the very chaos OF
the wars beginning. the dressmakers
Of Paris rallied and turned out sur
prisingly successful work; but with
the heads Of some famous houses at
the front. with manufacturing utterly
~diSorganized. with conditions among
werR folk unprecedented, and with
tragedy saturating the air, even the
pluckiest Of the French dressmakers
could not live up to the greatest of
their fashion traditions. Last seasons
showing Of models was wonderful
when conditions were taken into &C,
count, but It was not equal to that oil
happier years. Even the most sympa'
thetic and loyal Of the great couturi
.;s' admirers could not sincerely "a!
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12
Splendid Battle of the Rue de la Paix
Against Wars Blight in Striking
Contrast to Cayety Here

that it was. though criticism In the
race of the courage and energy that
went to the turning out Of that group
Of models was a thankless task.
but France has come back. France
always comes back. Whether IL IL
on the actual battlefield or on
those countless battlefields that lie be-
hind the army's lighting lines, the
French spirit does not admit the pos
sibility OF defeat. In the face of al
most overwhelming obstacles. with
lesser artists taking advantage OF their
extremity. with critics yelptng at their
heels and foreign competitors boast
ing that the reign Of the Partisan
dressmakers was over, the French
houses that a beer recognized as
the makers OF fashion. the groups Of
dressmakers whose names are most
authoritative in the world Of fashion.
organized themselves into a syndicate,
put aside their personal j~ealousies, ad.
mitted each others claim to rank
among the first artists OF fashion, and
turning on the crowd fought for
France.
IL Is rather splendid. this battle Of
the Rue de la Taix. when one studies
II closely. There are those who sheer.
who say hat 1t rs only for their own
pockets they are fighting. these Dress
makers; that they saw their hold
upon foreign dollars slipping. and that
they are merely making a supreme ef-
fort to keep their commercial strange
hold upon American buyers; hut the
sneerers do not know France and the
French.
The commercial consideration IL
there. or course. 1t Is tremendously
important to each house that Paris
should remain the great buying centre
for the world Of fashion, but behint
all this IL pride in the work. in arts
tic achievement. in the part of tn,
business that Is French essentially
uninipeachably French. DR. ssmakin'
is nos merely a business in France. II
is an art.
This Fashion Fcte. which was
French to its last detail. the distilled
essence Of what is French. was ;
gauntlet flung down. was Il defiance IL
the name Of France.
Yes. 1t Is rather splendid. this battl,
Of the Rue de la Paix.
There were the greatest dress
makers of Paris. and only the great
est. a famous little group. putting
forth their best endeavors. There wa
NJ. Boutet dc Monvel. French to hi
fngertips, artist to the same finger
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

A COURSE Of private lessons in
n conversation is one of the lates,
things in the line Of feminine
self-improvement. This is not con-
sidered in the least as a confession OF
ignorance. but rather as an acknowl-
edgment Of the important part the
modern woman has to take in the mat
tiers OF the day. A popular exponent
Of the art Of conversation is apt to
have her teaching hours taken from
| November until April. as many hours
| each day are devoted to cleaning ma
terial to meet the need Of individual
| pupils. The next six months bring
many social functions and the up to
date m aims to be we'll equipped
with topics OF general interest and
| thoroughly versed in the handling of
them.
A conversation teacher with a large
following makes it a point to explain
to a new pupil the radical difference
between conversing and mere talking,
She dwells on the etymology Of the
word conversation and the fact that II
stands for something more than a
solo part. Many nm who are in
teresting takers are the poorest OF
conversational!sts. for the reason that
they lack either the desire or the
ability 10 call out n response from
their listeners. The conversation
teacher also warns her pupils agains,
the sin OF i~nterrupting or betrayins
lack of interest in what others have
TO say. Undivided attention il one OF
the virtues Of a good conversatiOnalist
and a clever teacher eve fails TO drill
her pupils in the art Of intelligent
listening.
The value OF the opening sentence
and the use of tact in gradually urn
ing the conversation from one subjec'
10 another are two important features
OF this line OF study which require
practice to attain good results. While
independence of thought is always Il
be encouraged. discussions as a rule
are to be avoided and q trained con
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

the Fifth of the land arrayed
in what they fondly believe to be tbs
latest OF French fashions interpreted
by cheap workmen.
Our buyers and merchants may
at times do violence to French art
standards. but they supply their trade
and they have their own triumphs.
1t was a glorious victory. Every
Peterkin must admit Il: but It does not
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12
~ ELHANOR HOYr BRAINERD.

"HE debutante had rather a dull
season last year-if a season
can DO dull for a debutante-
and this winter. with the
war cloud stiil hanging over the
world. the social season cannot be
qu::e normal. There will be fewer
elaborate and formal social functions
than In the old days. and q very large
percentage Of the social events will be
given for charitable purposes. ut
on the whole 1t looks as though the
d%ebutantes were to be kept very busy.
There are n many Of Them. and
such a gOodly percentage Of them
are extremely pretty, and families
noted for their entertaining are 50
well represented. Even the most
charitable and sympathetic Of women.
while working and giving with full
heart and generous hand In the cause
Of charity. hates to have her daugh-
ter's youth quite overloaded by the
worlds woe, and entertains for the
young things where she herself may
have no heart for gayety; and AZ for
the young things themselves-well,
81, would be unnatural. superhuman,
for the girl Of IS not to dance and
be elad. even though at times war
horrors clutch at her and she goes
sober faced and sad.
80 the debutantes are whirling
about in mad debutante fashion. from
reception to tea and tea to dinner
and dinner to opera or theatre and
opera OF theatre to dance. and making
up by the multiplicity Of informal
affairs for the falling on in the amour,
Of elaborate entertaining.
And they are wearing such pretty
clothes. those debutantes--such amaz.
ingly pretty clothes. Youth always
succeeds in wringing charm from tho
modes: but II Gems as though thi.
seasons fashions are peculiarl,
adapeed to the claims Of youth.
There 10 4 hint Of things to com,
that may be less essentially youth
full. The last-and best--Fashior
Fete wrote At least dimly on the wal
warnings Of change. a hint of les!
uiquancy. more picturesque stateli
ness: but the writing wal too fain
"a trouble the girl who has bough
this seasons clothes; and. In any event
the fashion makers may be trusted t,
TG1D10ber debutante needs and pos
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

to artistic supremacy in the field Of
dress. They showed the individual
woman Of >money and taste what could
he done with the money and the taste.
Of them were eve simple. al the
French artist understands simplicity
but the American buyer is middleman
not only for the artist and the great
lady. He caters to the swarm OF
feminine folk who trot up and down
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-12-12

justification Of American buyers and
purveyors to that taste.
The gowns OF the fete were OF the
whole beautiful by any artists stand
ards. They were beautifully cor
ceived, carried out. worn, but how
many OF them would stand transla-
ton into terms OF the cheap price and
the crowds requirements:
They established the French claim
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1915-05-12
ARMY ORDERS.

First Lieut.. Joseph c. Mehahey Curs Of Eo
SneeTs. is relieved from duty and station IN thi
city and will proceed to Mammoth Hot Springs
Wyo.. for temporary duty. for about two weeks
and upon the completion OF this duty will proceec
to Valdez. Alaska. for assignment 10 duty.
First Lieut. Fred H. Coleman. Fourth Cavalry
il. detailed TO fill a vacancy in the grade Of frs
lieutenant in the Ordnance Department
First Lieut.. Paul H. Clark. Twenty-third Infsn
try is relieved from duty at The Army Service
School, Fort Learenworh, and will join his req
ment
Capt Robert E Wood, Twelfth Cs,alry. 10 re
Iered from further duty from the Panama Cana
and leave u absence fOr four months II Rantsd
him.
Leave Of absence for fifteen days. to take eject
upon his arrival in the United States. 10 granted
Lieut.. Col Erneste v. Smith. sevsnteenth In
fantry.
Leave Of absence for one month and tventyone
days with permission to apply for IN extension
# one month. is granted First Lieut. Thomas
s. Bowen. aviation officer. Signal Corps to take
effect about May 3
Leave Of absence for ten days, to take enect
upon his relief from treatment at the General
Lieut. Gladeon VI. Barnes. Ordnance Department.
Cart Philip IoSi. General Star. account Of
sickness Is relieved as = member Of the General
staff CorTs to take effect May 49, 1915. Capt.
Dan T. Moore Fifth FIsld ARTILLERY. Is detailed
as a member Of the General STAFF Corps.
The name of Capt. James NJ. Wheeler. Coast
ARTILLERY CorT-. is placed the list Of detached
officers and the Of Capt. Philip Yost. General
staff is removed therefrum.
Capt Daniel W Hand. Fifth Field Artillery, Is
relieved from his present duties. and will pro
coed to New York city and take station At that
place for duty inspector-instructcr Of the Or
gznized Militia.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1915-05-12
NAVAL ORDERS.

Nanshsn. sailed for San Diego May 3; yorktown
arrived La Paz May s. Raleigh sailed for La Pa!
May .; Galveston sailed for Chinkang May 10
Mayfower. arrived Washington May 10; Chimney
arrived Iloilo Nay 10: Rhode Island arrived North
River New York City. May 10; Burrows. Pattsrsur
and PsuldinS sailed for New York May 10: Vulcan
sailed for Beirut May q
NOTES
The Nashville. at Guantanamo Bay. has
been ordered to proceed To Santiago de Cuba, Port
au Prince and thence to PrvSresso, Mexico
After calling at kev West the Michias will pro
coed to PROGRESSED. Mexico as the relief Of the
Olympia.
Upon being relieved BIZ the Machias the Olympia
will proceed to Savannah Ga. and thence TO the
navy yard Charleston, :. c.
ORDERS To OFFICERS.
Lieut. Commander C. L. Courtney. 70 Kearsarge
I.ieut Commander V. A. Kimberly. tn inspector
Of powder. East Coast. Postofhce Building. Jersey
City.
Lieut. Junior grade D. J. Fnedell. commits
stoned from June 5. 1914.
Lieut.. Junior eradel P. T. Wright, commissioned
from June S. 1914.
Lieut. Junior srsd.J W. g. Nicholas commits
stoned from March T. 1916
Lieut.. Junior GRADE Lawrence Townsend. to
charge. Branch Hydrusra phic Office. Baltimore.
Lieut.. Junior grsde) r. A. LaRoche, To
Monaghan.
Ensign ]. r. Crowen. 10 MeDougal.
Ensign r. B. Hsmnes. to Minnesota.
Ensign L. p. Wen1ell. to Minnescta.
Ensign E. r. McCluns. to Minnesota.
Ensign w S. DeLany. To Montana.
Ensign A. L. Wills. to receiving ship At Nor
folk. Va.
Ensign q. F. Howell. 10 Brooklyn.
Ensign Laurence Wild TO Yankton.
Modernism Melvin L. stolz died At Pensacola
Fla May g.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1915-05-12
Wl41||:r9YS?
Unto Her3@A Alone
q EDWn BLISS
Copyright 1915 by Pathe Exchange. Inc All NOV
ingpicturc rights and all foreign copyrights
strictly rs.ervedl


strictly rsrerred)
CONTINUED FROM YESTERDAY
They did not speak-the pair. There
was no need for words. The murmur of
the waters, the ceaseless unrest Of It,
the rhythmical rock of the slender lined
yacht. all. everything wrought an eerie
enchantment round them, an enchant-
ment that came in the guise of freedom
from all restraint. an enchantment in
the costume of nights license. yet an
enchantment with bands stouter than any
the hands of man could ever fashion.
She murmured a little sound Of perfect
happiness. sound that blended into the
sounds of the night So perfectly he was
not consciously aware of 1t. A wisp of
her hair was taken by the roguish breeze
and futtered across his cheek. The per-
fume OF it intoxicated him. And yet it
was but part of the night. He reached
out his hand to put the vagrant lock in
place. His finger tips moved across her
cheek and the thrill was but another
of his wonderous nights myriad phases.
Her eyes sought. his own. bathed in the
question. the wild. embarrassed wonder
she read there. and then a long. fiutter-
ing streamer. plume of black cloud
reached out its giant fingers and snatched
the huge moon from its place in the
heavens. And, frightened at their moth
er's flight. the chattering stars fled to
find her. And but one long. steady star
doomed high. Nor did it bend its light
Nor did it turn to pry upon the man and