The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-09-12
Afternoon Coats Furnish Most Beau.
tiful Vehicles for Materials, With Rus
sian Note Predominating in Cut

chiefly of the very high Russian ur
slim chin or rolling models In fur.
aud wide fur trims the sleeves. while
often beautiful embroidery in self
color touched with dull silver or gold
adds To the beauty of the garment.
Imagine Il black velvet coat of Won
dprful quality lined with white. Dor
d"red widely around the bottom with
pure white ermire and made with an
enormous tichu collar of ermine.
The shaping of this coat is not
Russian. yet it has the straight. softly
~c:inging lines above and the flowing
width below. With it goe an exquisite
gown of black velvet and white chif-
fOn. with touches Oh silver cleaning
through the white. Only the filmy
white shows when the coat fronts are
thrown back. but the sides and back
Of the frock are entirely of black
velvet.
Less regal but effective Is a long
Russian coat of grecuish gold uncut
velvet trimmed In black foN over a
frock Of gold Colored chiffon and gold
run net lace. or a putty colored velvet
u tllllllfA III SfdlNkll Win "a lINhh bl
putty color velvet ana silk and Chif-
fon. also trimmed. though lightly. In
seal. or a brown velvet trimmed In
skunk over a fruCk of brown velvet
and uChre lace.
There are quantities Of three piece
velvet costumes whose cuats are ,hort.
reaching only a little way below the
waist line. or OF hip length. and either
hclted or very loose and ilaring: and
often there are, tou innumerable vel
vet fru,ks that have no accompany
ing coat. These froCks may he Of
the elaborate sort. part chiffon or lace
or silk much trimmed. hut W. are
the simple. one piece frocks Of velvet.
almost untrimmed save for mere
touches Of fur or embroidery and but
tons, made, in fact, with almost ex-
a%ggcratcd simplicity but with careful
attention to line. Many of these have
high. close collars of the velvet. bur-
dorcd at the top with fur. Or relieved
at top 10y some white collar arrange
mcnt: bat these straight up and down
all velvc; models. while ~undeniably
chic. are. rs uudeniably too hot for
comfort in our Overheated buildings
ana practical only Cor street wear un-
der fur coats or with small furs.
Recognizing this fault. some Of the
designers have arranged the collar so
hat from a high. close. velvet Choker
it may he unbuttoned and turned over
into a lace faced. rolling collar. but
even that leaves the all velvet bodice
| a very hot affair.
Mere comfort is an unimportant
consideration when il 10 qies-
I lions of fashion. and froCks of chiffon
may he as uncomfortable as the high
/ yollarrd frucks Of velvet. There. for
example. is Jenny's delightful Russian
fruck of navy blue chiffon and gold
! embroidered net and gold tissue with
It's high. tight collar of brown fur, held
10y s,lrabs Of gold and ivory. \ RI
dioulou~ collar for a sheer afternoon
fruck. but So effective. the dot upon
the / of the models smartnesS.
Jenny has done even better than
las, season. and that il : ing "A good
deal for her. Spring models were
among the most successful that Paris
evolved from her suffering and tIr-
mol. Gourg,tte is another ~ the
younger dressmakers who Is once
more successful. but Gcurget,e.
though like Jenny in the youthful
character of her models, goes in more
for extremes than Jenny, is more au-
daCious.
/ II is GeOrgcttc who particularly
| favors pannieres and wide hip eff