davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15

Very dark gray, slate blue, plum col
or and chocolate brown are colors that
obtain favor for maids uniforms, and
mohair is the favored fabric, though
mercerized poplin is used also. Such
a gown should be cut on simple, not
extreme lines, without a hint of the
fashionable silhouette of the moment
The sleeves should be long. though
they may be made to unfasten at the
wrist for special tasks about the
house. Bodice and skirt should be
neatly joined by stitched band or
belt and the bodice should button
down the front or hook under a flap
The skirt should fall about TO the
ankle and reveal the neatest of neat
boots, Most careful housekeepers in
sist upon turn soled boots for house
wear so that the maids step may be
light. Slippers should never be per-
mitted but oxford ties with thin soles
and sensible heels may be worn. II is
usually a good investment to make n
certain allowance from household ex-
penses for boots fer the maitland
wisdom will see that these boots are
the proper sort, and that they are
worn only in the house.
No correctly uniformed parlor maid
wears a big white apron nowadays A
small, rather coquettish apron and an
equally coquettish cap fall 70 her
share. The house maid, or maid-of-all
work, may wear a big apron in the
morning while about her tasks but II
she is TO play at being parlor maid
and waitress later in the day, she must
don the little apron and cap Of this
calling The parlo: maid pictured is
an attractive little figure and is nor
at all too coQuettishly dressed TO serve
afternoon tea N an ordinary home
Her cpNr, the essence Of simplicity
is Of Say poplin. with cuffs and collar
Of inc AVN edged with imitation val
l7cr. lie, pretty little apron with it's
bin ana shoulder straps, is also Of
shro lawn and lare Her cap Of
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15

gathered into the waistband and
button-in- front bodice which was
draped slightly over the gathered
skirt, in lieu Of a girdle. The severity
Of the long sleeved buttoned- in front
gray bodice was artfully relieved by
collar and cuffs of hand embroidered
white handkerchief lawn, the collar Of
exaggerated size and the cuffs coming
almost to the elbow. Artful also, was
the apparently careless way one side
of the plain, full gray silk skirt was
lifted at the belt, so that at the foot
was revealed the most coquettish thing
imaginable in lace-frilled petticoats
With this irresistible little Quaker
gown was worn a broad low
crowned shepherdess hat of black
erin. trimmed only by a band and
bow of black velvet
The bolero bodice holds its own and
is easily the most popular dress fea-
ture of the season Very attractive
in design and color scheme is a lunch
con frock of hydrangea blue chiffon
which is soft, smoky gray blue in tone
because the hydrangea chiffon Is
dropped over gray chiffon, and the
deep fiounce which lengthens the skirt
is blue-gray shade harmoniz.ng with
the two chiffons. The bolero. as an
illustration depicts, is fitted by rows
of shrring, or shocking. AZ Its lower
edge. the skirt being gathered into the
waisthand in a similar fashion In
der this dainty bolero Of blue chiffon
is a surplice bodice of white lace and
under this gray chiffon alta ched TO
white net which covers the shoulders.
The border pattern of the lace, as re-
vcaled through the blue chiffon bolero.
has been clipped away carefully, and
appliqued 10 the gray chiffon skirt
which falls under the outer skirt Of
blue chiffon. The latter is dstended
by a gored founce of satin. corded
at the foot to make II flare we'll from
! the feet. The underskirt OF gray chif-
fon is gathered in at the knee so that
the outer skirt floats away from IT,
and flares again in several gray chif-
fon rufiies TO make a petticoat.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15


maze more conspicuous by the appH-
cal!oh or the strlpeo trimming III
mltied corners. Al the 'front.' the skirt
slopes upward SHARPLY; at the BACK
lhe upward siope IS less uec4ueu' ana
though me luI sklrt hangs IN very
SOFT 1olds' the uneven lower cage
measures -FOUR yaros Wheh extended
i,,,
tho loosoness of a cana at the waist :
limo Tho three sections which form
mis- iacket arc circu,ar a, the lower
edge so that there is ripple effect
and thn whole iaclzet is hordored with
strincd brocade front armhole and
1ouor edra More of IN. hrocada is
draned across the cream, lace bodice
in he effect of a wide sash combining
tho fullnoss Of the high woistad skirt
new and rather nrctt1. nation is the
little mined friu around tho sleeve
which surgosts tho ,,urf or slcevo-can
of the Victorian era. These sleeves.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15
Surfing Race Costumes Typical Ct Summer Fash
ms Skirts Of Uneven Length Make Display Of
Charming Footwear Black and White the
ModiSh Combination of the Season.


~ HoC iH the weather during laic
q May was So unreasonable, tho
IA Belmont Park races brought OUT
- many notable toilettcs and ali
'hc women concerned made n Nallant
effort 20 look as SprinEliko and dainty
as possihl" though covering skies ana
bleak winds made any display Of gen
ulne summer fncry impossible. A'tcr
week of almost steady rain, num-
her OF rrch.o.. r"lug women sat about
or tn grass Vii, ID though green with
the intense, hcau'tul green Of SPRING
time. mus have been dangerously
damn Al tho ROOFS As ono victim Of
spring cold-in-tho-head feeling put It:
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15
- HERE are certain requirements
Of good form in the uniforming
of a staff Of maids and men,

of good form in the uniforming
of a staff Of maids and men,
- recognized by society everywhere
and the woman who desires an estab-
lished social position should realize
the Importance of this. A smart maid
IT the door and charmingly dispensed
hospitality Of even the simplest sort
will do more for the newcomer in
well bred community than the most
expensive lace curtains in her win
dows or the most costly Oriental rugs
on her noors--unless she has estab-
lished herself In a nouveau richie col
ony where mere dollars glitter gor-
gcously. For properly dressed and
correctly trained servants bespeak n
knowledge OF social usages and this
counts most strongly with people of
breeding and refnement-far more
strongly than evidences OF an unllm-
tied income sans familiarity with the
little amenities of polite living.
Correct uniform for ones maids
does not necessarily cost a great deal.
The cut and the style OF simple gowns
and aprons are the important points,
the material matters little. There are
establishments in New York that
make a specially Of servants uniforms
and to them the new maid or footman
is sent TO he measured and fitted out
according to the requirements Of the
new employer. Expense is no object
and sometimes special materials are
dyed special shades so that a staff of
servants may express some individual
Whim in color and design For in =
stance. at one large private residence
all the maids wear an unusual shade
of blue, at another plum color is the
distinguishing uniform A certain
charming hostess on Lo1S Island
dresses her maids in Quaker gray with
aprons and caps of fine hemstitChcd
lawn, But these are eXtraVagancos for
the rich; the ordinary mistress of a
small home In which two or AT mos
'.h.-Ga r.ei.As arc emr 2yed ErG. ides
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15


The corsage flower is plum color. A
shepherdess hat Of shirred navy tat
feta has two black quilts slanted down
ward at the right side. Altogether,
this frock, with its matching hat and
the CATERS of white cloth strapped
over patent leather pumps, is up to
the final minute in distinction and
chic.
Black And White Well Represented.
In every fashionable gathering these
DAYS there is a plentiful proportion of
magpie costumes for black and white
is having A great vogue It is easy to
dress we'll in black and white for
slight mistakes in color harmony
which often spoil other costumes have
no dangers here. The black and white
frock, planned by a master hand re
voals its distinction in the spacing ot
the black and white sections, their
correct proportion and their relation
| to the general effect. Worth is world
ia med for his artistic manipulation of
black and white and pictured is a
copy of one of Worth's recent maspie
creations-a very pleasing little lunch
con frock worn at the Turf and Field
| club during the races. Skirt and
| bodice are of black charmeuse, the
| skirt slashed TO the belt at either side
| to SHOW a petticoat of white satin
yelled with black net on which are
| hands of the black satin. This net
drop is gathered full over a white
satin skirt cut in gored flare style and
the outer skirt of black satin is caught
together over the hips by small but
! tons of seed pearls, so that the line
of the hips is kept smooth and grace
! full The slightly draped bodice has
the small seed pearl buttons down the
| front and the V shaped decoletage is
filed in with folds Of white tule from
! which rises IN airy fril-collar of black
tulle. The sleeves of white chiffon
yelled with black net are cuffed, well
! above the elbow. with black satin.
Note particularly the extreme length
! Of these sleeves; they wrinkle over
/ the forearm and come down over the
1 hand as far as the knuckles--which
is the secret Of their smartness. Such
sleeves must fit closely at the wrist
and bell ont slightly below-over the
hand. An opening, closed with tiny
snaps or buttons and loops. permits
the adjustment OF the sleeve trinity
| after II has been drawn on.
The white and black slippers, white
stockings and smart black hemp hat
trimmed with split ostrich, add per-
lection to this we'll planned black and
| white costume.
OF Pansy Colorcd Pussy Willow
TafYeta.
Almost gorgeous with color IS an
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15

&H0uilI tho weather during late
May was So rJsonablc, tho
4 Belmont Park races brought oul
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1915-07-15

The Fla rinG Skirt
ard Gaucy Bolero &C.
Typjfled IN Smoky
OrsYs ard DuU
! FydrznSea BlUe
Douglas Island news., 1915-02-03
The NOrthIand
The Latest News. from Reliable Sources, Concerning the Great
 North. Condensed.
Information for Everybody.

The Admiral Line has discontinued it's Skagway agency.
 The delinquent tax list for -19l4, at Wraugell, amounts to sl23 83.
 Judge Bunnell has appointed Ed. Wolcott, of Fairbanks, court stem ographer.
 The government cable has made 9 per cent reduction on night messages, on and after February lst.
 Willard. Sulzer and Aldrich are said to be candidates for the presidency of the territorial upper house.
 L.K. Steberg has resigned as cashier of the Petersburg bank, and C.E. Clure has been appointed his successor
 It is hard to keep a good town down Wraugell has the fastest basketball team in Alaska, says the Sentinel.
 Franklin K. Lane, secretary of the interior department, hopes to be able to visit Southeastern Alaska this sum mer.
 The White Pass Go. will operate five boats on the upper Yukon this sumner the Casca, Wbitehorse, Dawson, Selkirk and one other.
 Seward reports "Hooligan" running in large numbers in that section, the fish having arrived much earlier this year than usual
 An expedition carrying hydro.aero- planes is being fitted ont at Ottawa to hunt for Stefaussou and his party of Arctic explorers.
 Major z. T. Wood, assistant cOmmis sioner iu the Royal N. W. M. F., with headquarters at Regina, died in Ash vile, North Carolina, on Jan. 18th.
 The old steamer Al.Ki has again changed owners, and now ploughs the waters of Southeastern Alaska under the flag of the Border Line Transpor tation Company.
 Deputy United States Marshal Jo- seph F. Warren, whose services have been charged up to Alaska, but who has been stationed at Seattle, has been pried loose from the pay roll.
 A.C. Frost, who was tried in Chicago on the charge of fraudulently acquiring coal claims in the Matanuska and who was acquitted of that charge, has had returned to him by the government s2OOOO of the S3O,OOO which ho had paid as fees on the claims.
 The citizens of Ruby made such a vigorous kick last fall when they were charged ssO8.75 by the Alaska Yukon Navigation company as freight for bringing Keystone drill from Saint Michael to Ruby that the company has now blown back with a refund of s272s3.
Douglas Island news., 1915-02-03

w. G. Weigle, head of the forest service in Alaska, made the statement to the Ketchikan Miner recently that the little town of Tenakee is growing fast. He was there last week for the purpose of approving the survey of the place and making the necessary ar- engagements to secure a right of way Che forest service will build along the waterfront. The street will be about three thousand feet in length, and 4l buildings now on the right of way will have to be moved out of the way. While on the trip Mir. Weigle visited Warm Springs bay, about 70 miles from Ten azee, which place, like Tenakee, is building up fast Mir. Weigle estimates that there are at least two hundred people visiting at Tenakee, taking the waters.
 The Alaska Consolidated Copper Company, whose mines near Strelna have been under development for sev. eral years, and of which A. B. Hes is the resident agent, is about to begin work on its properties on a large scale. The company will spend a large amount of money during the coming summer, bringing the mines up to the shipping stage, and large consignment of ma. chinery to facilitate the carrying out of this plan is DOW on the way from the factories in the East. Under present conditions it is necessary to haul the ore several miles 10 the railroad, and it is contemplated, if a railroad is not soon constructed either by the govern. meut or by private parties that will reach Che mines, the company will build a branch line of it's own 10 con- meet with the Copper River & North western railway The company has several groups of claims, covering i'm. meuse bodies of very rich ore,
 The first real paystreak has been found in the Ruby district by the Akin & McKinnon drill, on Candle creek, which has been working down stream from where the open cut was made last summer. This information comes in extracts from a letter printed in the Ruby Citizen. The open cut work is at timber line, near the head of the creek. There the pay streak is l5O feet wide and only eight feet deep. The drill has followed the pay down stream for mile and a half to where it is from % to 54 feet deep and 4SO feet wide and runs into the left limit benches. The drill shows y to the square foot all along the left limit rim, ,tapering to DOC 10 the square foot on the extreme right limit of the paystreak. The creek in- creases in depth in proceeding down stream until a depth of so feet has been demonstrated. Thawed ground ia places constitutes an obstacle in the deeper portion; nevertheless several lays have been let on the lower part of the creek and the laymen are now busy sinking. This winters work will give iine on the lower portion of the creek. Candle is a tributary of the Tatalena, which in turn is a tributary of the Takotna. This is the first bona fde paystreak found and demonstrated ou the Kuskokwim river. Aiken < Me. Kinnon worked crew of p men all last season and will work more the next providing supplies can be obtained st a reRgOuabie price.
Douglas Island news., 1915-02-03

&lSvSREE ETS yIsTl lS''lS IVY
 The past winter has been the mildest in the history of Fairbanks as far back as records have been kept But little snow has fallen and only few days of extreme cold weather have been re- corded
 The third annual observance of the "National Canned Salmon Day" is an nounced for March 12th, 1915, under the auspices of Che Transportation club of Seattle and Association of Pacific Fisheries.
 Sheriff Birthstone, of Dawson, has arrived at Whitehorse and is making arrangements to take the life of Romilo Caesari next Friday. The scaffold and all the other horrible accessories of the killing are prepared. Caesari is to be legally murdered
 Senator Gaustad, the newly elected mem Der of tbe Alaska legislature from Fairbanks, has prepared an outline of a proposed new law that provides for the construction of roads in Alaska under the direction of road supervisors who are Go be elected by votes of the  people.
 Brick Erickson has implied for per mission from the forest service Go build a saw mill on Freshwater bay near Ten akee. He plans 10 operate mill of about twenty thousand a day capacity. There is considerable timber in the region he has selected, so the mill should be a success.
 Because of an advance in charges which Vice President R. W. Baxter says would approximately double the cost of the service, the Alaska Steam ship Company has thrown the gauntlet to the Marconi Wireless Telegraph Go. and in the future will attempt to obey Che government laws pertaining to safety at sea with independently owned apparatus and it's own employees.
 CD. Colwell, who went south on the last trip of the Mariposa, took with him thirty. seven blue foxes, three cross foxes and three mink, all alive and representing a value of approximately S5O0O. The animals were from the Aleutian islands and form the largest shipment taken out from that part of Alaska this season. The blue foxes are consigned to the Fuudy Fox Company's great fox farm in New Brunswick, while the cross foxes and the mink will be placed in a St. John park.-Cordova Times.
 Although very early in the season for such an occurrence, there were two or three heavy snow slides on the south side of the summit owing Go the mild weather of Sunday and Monday, and when Tuesdays train from Skagway started for this place the track was found to be blockaded in numerous places. In attempting te clear Che snow from the track, rocks were encountered with the result that the "blades" of the rotary were put out of business and the latter was forced to return to Skag- way for repairs. It was late in the afternoon by the time the track was cleared. The train due here at 4:15 in the afternoon did not arrive until after l in the morning. Snowslidss on the railroad in January have never before beec -Whitehorse Star
Douglas Island news., 1915-02-03

The Nome Kennel Club is already preparing for the All.Alaska Sweep stake races which will be held during the early part of April Ten teams have already been entered. In addition to the prizes to be offered by the club the Loyal Order of Moose lodge of Sol omon will give handsome solid silver cup, the haudiwork of Tiffany, of New York.
 The Dawson Daily News modestly suggests to tbe merchants of that town that it is supplying them with super for news service, which is the truth, but if that service is to be continued, they, the merchants, must come across with more patronage in the way of advertis. ing. Never have the newspapers of Canada experienced "hard sledding" as at present.
 Ina appointment of James Smiser to be United States district attorney at Juneau has brought forth a storm of protest from disappointed aspirants for the same job, and the newspapers are saying all manner of mean things about Smiser. A Juneau paper calls him a dyed in the wool republican, and the Betchikan Mal calls him "hog raiser from Tennessee"
 Arthur Buel, tbe cartoonist whose clever work will be remembered by newspaper readers of Dawson and Nome, has become identified with the Nevada Gazette, a new democratic weekly publication at Reno Buel has just completed a three-year contract with the Sacramento Bee, where bis sketches were a powerful factor in the political battles of the state.
 The Cordova newspapers have been carrying on a wordy warfare in which the officials of Cordova mixed with ap porent willingness. Their readers have evidently grown tired of the Kilkenny sport, and now comes a citizen who is willing to pay good money for an ad- vertisement a foot long telling the editors where to head in He says it is bad form or something like that It is called "Sittlichkeit" in German.
 One of the musicians of Company A, of the l4th U. S. infantry at Fort Sew ard, is in custody and will be treated by the military authorities for a mild form of insanity. For several days Che musician stood in front of Deputy Mar shal Harding's office looking intently at the sky. ln reply to questions as to what he was doing there the soldier said bis principal study was philosophy and that he would soon take possession of the sky
 George c. Hazelet, president of the Cordova chamber of commerce, is grat flied over the fact that he last week induced Uncle Sam to accept the gift of twelve lots in Cordova. The ae. ceptance came from the treasury de- partment Plans for public buildings are drawn in the order in which the government gets litle to the land. For months Cordova has bad au appropria- ton of S1OOOOO for a building, but the government had taden no title any where The above acceptance puts Cordova far ahead of other cities whose appropriations were made at the same time. The lots are at the corner of Second street and Federal arenue.
Douglas Island news., 1915-02-03

The past winter has been the mildest in the history of Fairbanks as far back as records have been kept. But little snow has fallen and only a few days of extreme cold weather have been re- corded.
Williams news., 1915-07-22
MINUTES OF THE BOARD 0F EQUALIZATION
Continued from Page 3

Elzsb.th Holden, cattle 100 head 12O head horses from 5 head 95 head saddle horses from head L. Hart Sons cattle from 240 head 29O head Mrs M w. LeBaron Improvements lots 13 to 1S blk D. Flags $2 OO0 O0 $2 500O0 L. D. Sanders cattle from 398 head 45O Albert Lebsch Improvements lots and blk 5 Williams g. 6OOOO $35OOOO J. Moran Improvements & 75 of lots 13 to 1S blk 5 Flagstaff from $ % $20O0OO Mund Park Cattle Co., fractional Sec 5 and 22 R. E. containing 32O from $2, ,625 % to $31OOOO
 29 22 N. R. E. 5O0OO 24O0Oo M Rounevie range cattle from 2 head to 35 head w. Randall part of Sec N Containing 160 from $240OO $56O co and 15 N R. from s24OOO $5600O B. D. Randall part of Sec 35 T. 15 N. R. g E. from $40 % to $56OOO
 H. Schulz. Improvements lots to blk A. Flagstaff from OOOO O00O0 Saazar Saoz sheep head o $500 head.
 Spelmie sheep from 700 head 1000 head.
 advertisement of increased assessments following additions ordered placed the Tax Roll for the year 1915.
 w. F. Improvements rights $250OO Barney Automobile s5o00o Chino Land and Cattle Co., improve $20OO0 and fences $5OOO Clark Camp $3OOOO. Campbell $7OOOO Johnson, possessory $500 % nd five of saddle horses $25OOO
 Co., bulls, 75 head Mrs Fred Platten Automobile s350OO.
 their meeting this year, recorded the off, cial minutes of that meeting
 The board ordered the following placed the Assessment Roll for the year 1915
 Ben Barney cows 1884 head bulls 26 head Boug and saddles $5OO rights s3OOOO work horses s150 w. Bradford 49 horses S4 and bulls Dave Broer 9S bulls Range Cows and bulls.
 being Equalization
 Attst, Approved,
 Tom L. Rees Clerk L. E. Hart, Chairman
Williams news., 1915-07-22
NOTICE 0F THE RE-
 CEPT|0N OF BIDS

Office of the Board of Supervis- ors, CoconIno County, Arizona, July 10th, 1915.
 Notice is hereby given that sealed bids vii be received by the Board of Supervisors at their office in the Court House. up to five(5) o'clock July 31st, 1915, for the delivery in August, 1915, of thirty-five (35) tons of lump coal in the bins at the Court House and Jail. Each load to be accompanied by a scale weight ticket.
 All bids will be opened and in spected at the regular meeting of the Board to be held on the 2nd day of August, 1915.
 The Board reserves the right to reject any and all bids.
 Thomas l.. Rees Clerk of the Board of Supervisors,
 Coconino County, Arizona. First Pub. July 15-15 Last Pub. July 22-15