Arizona republican., 1915-01-31
BOTH HIGH AND FLAIR ING COLLARS WILL BE
 SMART FOR SPRING

lo QOuDIlul ' ever any season ever opened with a promise Of
 greater variety and greater possi- bility for charm than this coming one. Tn spite of all the tragedy under which the French have been compelled to work, and in spite of conditions. models give evidence of keen study and of just that wonderful conception of color and of line that always has made the French famous in the world of dress. While on this side of the sea, there have been put forth such excellent ideas and such excellent costumes that we may well be proud:
 In one way or another the skirt must flare and for the most part bodices are quite simple, but the flare is accomplished sometimes with cir cular cut, sometimes with plaits, sometimes with the very full long tunic. and bodiccs, while they aie simple, show contrasting sleeves and chemisctte effects that entirely relieve them of over-severity. The tunlc has not been displaced. Some of the dc- signers of highest reputc are showing it in their advance spring output. The circular skirt. the semi-circular skirt and the skirt with plaits have come and are exceedingly smart. Perhaps they may be preferred for the street costume, but the tunic Is so inherently beautiful that it retains its place for certain occasions and for certain ma terials. The tunic gown shown here is made of lace and combined with the new satin Callot It is like char mouse in weight and softness, but 1t is more lustrous in surface. The skirt is made of the white satin, faced with the black, and the revers are lined with white, but the bishop sleeves are of net only, to give transparent effect. The high collar with a band of velvet over the throat i1 front and the open V below Is exceedingly smart, and is very apt to be becoming. To the right ot that figure is shown a suit of gabardine in the favorite oyster white braided with sltache, and sutache braid is found upon many of the handsomest garments. The cir cular skirt flares gracefully and the low beltcd blouse with the vest effect is especially well adapted to the street gown. The hat that is worn with it also is noteworthy, for it is of Leghorn straw with just d wreath of little roses as trimming.
 White costumes are always in de- mand with the opening of the Spring season, but this year white is to have d special vogue. and the sutache makes handsome trimming, but as matter of course the same idea could be car ried out in any chosen color-the fash ionable sand or putty color or one of the military blues would be hand some.
 Over in the left hand corner of the picture is a gown made of checked material, combining silk with wool threads, and the vest, collar and cuffs are of white bengaline The silk is heavy and handsome one, and especi- ally well suited to trimming of such kinds. It is to be noted upon gowns and upon costumes and also used in similar ways to finish the pretty blouses of crepe de chine that are so much in demand for wear with coat suits.
 The gown with deep band of satin at the lower edge IS an extremely simple and extremely graceful one. Body and skitt portions are cut to- gether so it is one of the easiest pos sible gowns to make and as it is shown here of serge with charmeuse satin, it Is handsome as well.