The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-02-28

itleir influence upon the cheaper
Corsets. and We shall all doubtless
come around to them. though it is
doubtful whether ono would ever
again submit to actual discomfort and
tight lacing.
1t is amusing TO rear once more
from the corsetieres tho hygienic ar
/ gumcnts in favor OF corset change.
The old straight front cOrsets were
hailed az life savers when they APP
peared. They gave support. &c. bu;
in time they were scornfully thrown
aside. We had been distorting our
figures and pressing various organs
IN OF place, so we went in enthusiast
tically for the natural figure and the
approximately bonc.css corset. Now II
appears that W. have been running
our figures. though enjoying our dan
cling and our dinners.
The feminine figure. 1t seems. needs
TO be not forced, but encouraged. even
gently coaxed. Muscles left unsup-
ported and not sufficiently exercised
will sag. We are in danger of queen
of the harem proportions and. outside
OF idealistic painting and poetry, the
houri does not conform to modern and
Occidental ideas of lovely outline. SO
, we are to give our diaphragms a little
more support and gently but firmly
suppress their tendency to spreading
abandon. ard We are to indicate the
perfectly natural and gracious curve
Of the waist just below the ribs. and
we are to reason with the back and
hips, But lace? No. indeed: merely
train the figure TO avoid lapses from
normal.
When we have IL trained we will
presumably look as well In the little
blue taffeta frock sketched here as did
the mannequir who showed it. She,
Thy the way, has suddenly and marvel
, lousy convalesced from a pronounced
dobutante SLOUGH with which she was
afflicted last season. has fiat shoulders
instead of round. and a softly full chest
instead Of the hollow. consumptive ef-
feet that went with the SLOUGH. They
must have character as well as tig-
ures. these ~manneauins. II is not easy
To keep up Swedish exercises faithfully
enough to make over ones figure be-
tween seasons
But that blue taffeta frock' Ot tho
simplest. yet Il caught the eye and
had a distinctly modish air. with its
full tiaring skirt. It's fitted bodice. It's
high collar. its lorg close sleeves. its
silk ball buttons dangling by tiny cords
and it's sharp defining of :he normal
waist line. Not a note Of trimmir .
save IN the buttons and the sharn
collar points of crisp organdie that
fiarcd out at the top Of the high
straight collar.
Taffeta is apparently 70 have a great
season. Nc silk is better adapted 10
the development Of Victorian skirt
lines. AND though fa!ile il perhaps
more exclusively chic. good faillc is
also rather more expensive. me can
= have taTeta 81 fine and soft and thin
= that, l. j. scarcely heavier tlar silk
= wolfe or a. heavy as faille. though wiki
, it's OWN curious combination Of soft
ness and %crispness.
, MORE %taffeta. taffeta faille. broche
~taffeta, printed taffeta, embroidered
~taffeta. pleat ~tafeta. all these 1-e ir
evidence, and newer and smarter ar,
! the taffetas striped with satin, collet
: taft" ia rayure and the taireta barred
of by satin bands into regular ~
broken plaids. one tone effects botf
r in the stripe and the plaid are very
modIsh. hut there are also admirabl,
arrang, ments Of contrasting Colors.
\ successful season Is also prophe,
, sled for the tussors and pongee weave,
that have been somewhat neglected %
, late. There are lovely new crimp,,
, weiveS in these and in all the natu-a
tones. which run into the popula,
beige. castor and sand shades. tics,
silks are considerably exploited. |:
oyster whit" too tho heavy. oft crep,
4 tussor is used for exceedingly GOO
. looking frocks and suits. Darkc
c"ior.nGs are used also, but not 50 sue
- c~esSfully.
n SIN and cloth are satisfactorily com
- hiucd N some of ~" new Sat- and .
. good Instance of such combination wa.
q tho model Of sand color cloth an,
= fail,c which j. pictured among tn,
Il small cuts. The suit l., built on com
p p"arativcly straight lines. though I'M
a skirt flares just a l!ttl" toward tho ho
9 tom and the cloth is confined 10 band
o up AMI down the front and around IN
T. bottom. deep cuffs and a plain .irdl
. with LONG scarf ends. All the rest o.