Evening star., 1915-12-06
LEG-O.MUTTON SLEEVES ON COATS.

time women had been content with
one or two shapes: they were short.
then long, then nothing for the even
! ing. the two former graded to the eX-
act point of social occasion for which
the gown was intended
The elbow sleeve had a longer rrn in
shirtwalsts than any other kind of
blouse. and there was a protest from
ocean to ocean, when the long. smart
sleeve made its appearance. Women
deliberately refused it. They insisted
that the loose elbow sleeve was a part
OF the American uniform. and that it
went with their special kind of activi-
ties: but. of course, the long sleeve
won out
There was no use going against it,
any more than there is trying to beat
the oank of Monte Carlo. New fashions
always win out when there is persist
ency behind it and the French de-
signers made up their minds they We're
tired of the inartistic elbow sleeve. and
the entire world followed their wishes
within the year.
And now even the cheapest shirt
waist of today carries it's sleeve to the
wrist. and will probably continue to
carry II for many months to come
The Bullying Sleeve on Blouses.
When the first loose sleeve appeared
in frocks last summer, it was greeted
with interest, but not emphasized at
sleeves and sleeve drapery, and it was
from this house that the polonaise
gown appeared, with it's old-fashioned
lego mutton sleeves fiaring out over
the elbow and dropping over long tight
cuff
The gown and the sleeve have both
won out. Women have taken to polo
naise frocks with eagerness, tor they
labor saving IN dressihs.
sl,x, hon 4
or the belt; the garment goes on hke
a housewives apron, and there are ~
accessories to add
After this kind of frock was estab-
lished, blouses plain and fanci1ul pc
gan to make their appearance with
this kind of sleeve incorporated. SHIRT
waists in inexpensive material with
the lego mutton sleeve, began 10 ap-
pear on the counters for 81 ana up
ward. Fine garments OF organas' o5
georgette crepe and of chiffon, also had
the loose, dropping sleeve, but II re-
mained for Worth to put 1t into coat.
So far the coats have had long. man
nish sleeves demanded by the strictly
severe tailored costume, or tne peir-
shaped sleeve of 1870, which was over
done last year in evening gowns.
The gray velvet suit, which is shown
in the sketch of today, was MADE py
Worth and sent over to this country
to one of his best patrons. 1t has
gray velvet-and gray, by the way,
is being extensively featured by the
big houses abroad-and the suit has
no trimming whatever except touch
of fur at the collar.
The small, old-fashioned mun is IN
keeping with the entire Silhouette
which Worth has emphasized since
last August, and which has maze
deep impression on American 1ash-
ions.
The capelike sleeve cuts Into the
shoulder line in this coat by Worth.
1t has the effect of dropping the arm
hole nearly to the elbow, although the
sleeve runs up in raglan fashion almost
to the shoulders. This coat produces
the narrowness of the back and chest.
which. 1 am sorry to say, seems to be
the determined aim of the designers.
After the sleeve leaves the long cape
at the top, it stands well out over the
elbow and is pleated at the back into
an exceptionally long cuff.