davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
Topics Of the Times

The Iowa farmer who can buy an
automobile is not worrying about the
census.
English coal miners who strike WREN
England's ships need the coal would
hardly class as patriots and yet 'he
coal barons who boost prices have
something to do with the miners desire
to divide.
Why this unseemly struggle among
Iowa towns to show up the greatest
per capita wealth? Is it the race to
reach the goal set by some paragraph
err who said that this automobile bus
mess would not stop until everybody
had one?
Two scientists have discovered that
Wellesley graduates are slow to marry
fact if Wellesley were to depend upon
it's graduates for it's future attendance
it would be out OF business In three
generations.
England has discovered new job for
convicts which, as yet has not raised
protest from free labor. The jails are
to be turned into ammunition factories.
Will the pro-Germans turn upon Will
son? is the question being discussed in
the democratic press. Take it from us
they have.
It is impossible for public sentiment
to become partisan as between the
belligerents in Mexico but everybody is
pleased to hear of somebody being de-
feated decisively in the hope that or
der may be restored.
Nobody need worry as to what to do
with out Iowa breweriee after Jan. /.
At Ottumwa they will remodel for a
cold storage plant and most good
towns are in need Of cold storage
plants.
The Manufacturers Record in an
article upon the increased grain pro-
duction Of the south predicts that IL
will be sufficient to revive business
which was Frustrated down there when
the war destroyed the European mar
ket for cotton.
Sioux City Is hard at work paving
her main streets to the city limits UNI
der the new paving district law. The
city council has ordered two more
streets paved and about one-third the
cost will be paid by the city at large
Congressman Daoweli can't find Iowa
boys enough to make contest for the
place open in the United States naval
academy at Annapolis. In these days
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
supsrstIeson In RoumanIa.

The RDuman;is superstitious. He has
popular tales that mark the rod.heaA.
ed man land the man without mus.
tache - strange characters who are
sure totwork mischief. In some parts
of the, country there are still old
pagan beliefs In witches. Many old
semibarbaric customs remain, -. for
instance. that OF burying the deaA
with uncovered faces. In some parts
Of the country . flower 10 painted on
the wall of . cottage whsroin lives 3
girl Of maEr1ageable age.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
IOWA OPINION AND NOTES.

The Times journal at Dubuque OBJ
serves that women as commercial
travellers may be a novelty in England,
and they are still the exception in this
country, but an increasing number OF
them have been attaining success in
this field in the United States for some
years back"
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
LIST OF INSURANCE GOES UP.
TCedar Falls Record.1

Already property owners are begin
ming to feel the effect of the new in
surance law. Attention was called this
morning to a number Of policies held
by local citizen and in each instance
the amount of premium to be paid will
be increased from 20 to SO per cent.
Former Speaker E. H. Cunningham Is
authority for the statement that Iowa
people will be mulcted to the extent Of
from two to three million dollars every
year fore than they have been for the
same amount OF fire protection. Isn't
1t about time for the plain every day
citizen to wake up and find Wha. is
being put over on him at every session
OF the legislature? The special inter-
ests are looking after their own.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20

Pro-German viewpoints have escaped
the democratic Times Tribune at Wat
erloo, which remarks: I'VE did not
make the conditions and are not re-
sponsible for them. Our markets are
open to all on equal terms. We sell at
our ports. To change this regular rule
of business would certainly be doing
an unneutral act
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
SUBSCRIBING WITH COOLIES.
TSioux City Tribune,1

It was announced some time ago that
the Robert Dollar Steamship Company
IAN American line Of merchant vessels
on the Pacific-was going out Of bust
ness because Of the LaTollette sea-
mems act 1t is now announced that it
Is going to continue in business, but
change TO British registry. because un-
der British registry it won't have to
cease it's employment Of Chinese coolies
as sailors, and it won't have to submit
to the standards for life saving appar-
atus provided for in the LaFollette act.
AS the British government pays no
subsidy to merchant vessels, it is very
evident that the Chinese are Sub
sidy" such as satisfies this American
owned line. If all American lines can
be satisfied in this way-by being put
upon an equality with competitors in
the labor market-it looks like an easy
way to satisfy them and build an Am
erican marine ;llso
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20

to an expense Of $4,000 in connection
with the work Of compilation and in
dexing. Incidentally, AZ will cost from
$4,000 to $4,000 more to finish the
job. OF the $4,000 Mr. Wilcox himself
got about $4,000. In return, OF course,
the state is under obligation to Mr..
Wilcox to the extent of considerable
valuable experience.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
Masonic Meetings.

wv STATED SOmmSNiSN
Marshall Lodge. No. los A F. & A. M.
regular meeting Friday. Aug. Is, e'u0
p. m. John w. Wells. secretary; w. u.
Steiner w. M.
sIGNEr CHAPTER. No. 80. r. A. M.
Regular convocation Monday, July ~
8 p. m. l.. S. kilborn, H. p. John w.
Wells. Rec.
STATED ASSEMBLY, King solomon
Council No. 20. r. & 8. NJ. Monuas
after the third Sunday. j. !. toios
recorder: George Gregory. T. l. NJ
REGULAR coNcLAvE, ST. AidemaI
Commandery No. 80, K T" TuesoAy'
June %. at o'clock. Regular business
Il. S. Mcfarland. Rec. George Gregory
q. c.
REGULAR MEETING Central Chap
ter No. 81, o. f. s., WEDNESDAY S
II, p. m Business. Anna dow H :,
secretary; Mary Black Collins W. ~
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20

1t will be news to some city councils
to learn from the Pomeroy Herald
that beginning this month the law of
Iowa requires that town councils shall
publish. either in newspapers or by
posting, the PROCEEDINGS Of each
months meetings" y 49,.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20

The Jefferson Free-Lance casts
side remark saying: "Oh.yes, swat the
mud road is a good slogan in any
county and Greene county has long
since started that business. With 800
miles of graveled roads there are few
highways within our borders but can
be used most any kind OF weather"
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
Iona Newspapers
MASON CITY IN WEEDS.
MASON CITY Times,l

Before jumping on road supervisors
for not enforcing the weed cutting laws
along the highways it might be we'll
for city officials to take glance over
the domain and witness the almost
universal practice Of law violations re-
gardng the cutting of weeds.
LNAL1ENABLE RIGHT TO. ROADS
[Des Moines Capital.l
A resident Of Valley Junction has
filed in district court a petition ask
ing that Valley Junction be compelled
to fix the street upon which he lives.
Happy thought! Perhaps here is the
way Des Moines should proceed to get
some of her unpaved streets dragged
and put in passable condition. Why not
proceed by the court route to have
some Of the toughest streets repaved.
or the east approach to, the Walnut
street bridge leveled a bit or the en-
trance to the Waveland golf links made
water proof?
Perhaps some Of the property owners
might thus proceed to get rid OF the
weed patches on the adjoining vacant
lots which destroy the beauty OF the
entire block
SHOULD HAVE BEEN SOONER.
[Sioux City Journal]
II the state authorities are open to
any criticism in connection with the
case. 1t would be for having failed to
call the official indexer to account
some time ago. No private corpora
ton would have submitted to the dila-
tory service which the code editor per-
sisted in rendering the state OF Iowa.
or his dictatorial tactics. The 1918
supplement should have been produced
on schedule time, and when 1t. was
not 80 produced. the code commission
or others should have taken steps to
hurry the work to a quick conclusion.
That the supplement IL still unpub-
ltshed. more than two years after the
Job was given into the hands OF the
editor. reflects not only on the editor.
but upon those whose duty It WAS to
see that he carried out his contract
with accuracy and reasonable dispatch.
The inexcusableness Of the editors
failure to make better progress with
his work Is emphasized by the fact that
:.e IN the time Of his ignominious dis
missal he had managed to put the state
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20

BEST AVERAGE LAND.
[Tipton Advertiser.J
The. prairie counties In the north
western part Of the state are catching
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20

There is something about sick
benefit association which sounds as
though it would be a christian thing
in it's purpose.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20

A code that has cost $4,000 to edit
and something extra to print must be
a dandy when it is done to be worth
what it cost.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1915-07-20
PROSPERITY PSYCHOLOGICAL.

Prosperity is coming but at present
is purely psychological, according to
the weekly reviews of trade by Dun's
and by Bradstreets.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

hem at the width you have allowed,
haste and stitch. Now form plaits by
folding on the lines of smaller perfora-
tons and tapping these folded edges
over to meet the lines of larger per-
forations and lap the plaits at each
side of the back over to meet at the
seams. The opening must be made on
line with the blouse, therefore, cut it
just beneath the under fold of the left
side of the box-plait formed at the
center front and stitch one edge OF
straight strip of material two inches
wide down the front edge and up the
back to form continuous facing. Fold
at the center and hem the remaining
edge over the seam. Join the skirt to
the under bodice, plating the large
perforations that mark the center
front exactly together and the center
backs exactly meeting. Stitch On the
marked outline of the pattern, then
turn the seam up under the bodice
and stitch haste. To make perfectly
neat finish, cut a narrow strip of lining
lawn about three-quarters OF an inch
in width, turn each edge under and
basic over the edge Of the skirt. Then
stitch close to the edge as in the pic
ture and again at the upper edge OF the
facing.
To make the sleeveless coat or
over-blouse is very simple matter.
but before we take another step, we
must insert the pockets and to do
this in the neatest way, we must apply
strips for facings over the perforations
before cutting the openings. Cut two
straight strips, each one inch in width
and six inches in length, haste over tho
coat with the centers on the lines OF
peforations indicating the pocket.
Then cut the openings on the perfora-
tons through both the facings and the
coat. Seam the edges together firmly.
taking up as little as possible, then
turn the facings through the open
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

ings to the under side of the coat and
haste with just a little extending
beyond the seam to give the effect Of
a piping and to make a neat finish.
Stitch around all the edges about one
eighth Of an inch within, then make the
pockets. To do this, cut two pieces of
material for each one three inches deep
and one inch wider than the opening.
Turn the outer edges Of the facings on
the lower edges of the openings under
for one-quarter Of an inch and haste
one strip under each, then stitch into
place. Turn the upper edges of the
two other pieces for the pockets
under for one-quarter of an inch and
arrange over the facings on the upper
edges of the pockets and stitch. Then
haste the sides and the lower edges of
the pockets together and if you like,
curve the ends. Stitch very neatly.
close to the edges and then bind over
the stitching with very thin seam
binding or with bias folds that can be
bought ready for use. Join the shout
der and under-arm edges, making the
double seams as usual and you will
then be ready to finish the edges.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

r IERE is design for embroider-
n ing sailor collar and cuffs
I for child's dress or coat. :.
The scalloped edges are designed
to be padded and buttonholed; the
sprays of leaves and the flowers
worked in solid embroidery as eyelets
or in combination OF solid embroidery
with eyelets, the stems are to be out
lined, and the round dots worked in
solid work or as eyelets.
To pad the scallops rapidly and
effectively, work chain stitch between
the lines, heavier at the centers.
lighter at the points; or, cut skein Of
thread, apply two or more strands
over the center OF the stamped pat
tern, keeping within the lines; tack
here and there in COUGHING style,
gathering the threads closely together
at each point Of the scallops.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

HIS 10 q season q great many
attractive and picturesque
effects and they are perhaps
especially conspicuous In the chill
dren's costumes. But among them
Ill, Il 10 doubtful If there is any one
which allows Of greater variation Of
treatment than the sleeveless bodice
Or coatee which 10 worn over 4 sepa-
rate blouse and skirt. The dress that
ID shown here. and which has been
selected for tbs lesson, is made with
such 4 coat and also with straight.
plated skirt that 10 Joined to a per-
fectly plain body portion. The pretty,
full sleeves arc sewed to the arm
holes d this body portion and the
coates 10 finished quite separately,
consequently this coatee can be made
Of material to match the skirt or Of
different one. In the picture, the
skirt and the coat are both Of linen.
the body lining 10 made Of lining lawn
and the collar and the sieeves are Of
batiste; the combination is a good one,
Z smart one and = practical one, and
the dress viii b serviceable through
out the entire summer. It would,
however, Be easy 10 treat this model
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22
make the cuffs as illustrated, haste

make the cuffs as illustrated, haste
insertion over the long edges.
Stitch the inner edges to position.
turn the material beneath the lower
edge under and stitch again as directed
for the collar and trim off neatly. Cut
through the material beneath the
upper row one-quarter of an inch from
the lower edge, turn this quarter Of
an inch down under the cuffs and
stitch second time. Join the ends of
the cuffs, making very neat double
seams and whip the lace onto the lower
edges, then gather the sleeves at the
lower edges between the double crosses
and again one-quarter Of an inch
above, making very narrow space be-
tween the two. Arrange the cuffs over
these gathers with the seams meeting
the seams Of the sleeves and haste
carefully. Now stitch the upper edges
of the lace insertion into place, then
luIl II lHS IiidlCll dl Oll tNC ulldCt olSAS w
over the edges of the sleeves. Turn
the edges under second time for the
inturn and fell by hand over the gath
ers, taking very small, neat stitches.
If you are making the elbow sleeves,
you will have cut off on the cross line
OF perforations on the pattern, then
gather at the lower edges and join to
straight bands the size of the arms,
finishing these bands with little frills
of lace whipped to their lower edges.
Gather the sleeves at the upper edges
between the double crosses and place
in the arnholes, seams exactly at
notches and the single large perfora-
tons at the shoulder seams, and take
care to haste with the seams on the
right side. Stitch as closely to the
edges as possible, then turn, basic and
stitch second time on the marked
outline of rho pattern. Join the
sewage edges Of the material as neces-
sary for the skirt, close the back seam.
then turn the lower edge to make
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

Here, they are scalloped and the seal
lops are very pretty, but if that seems
to represent too great labor, you can
bind them with some pretty washable
braid or apply bias strip of material
over all the edges and stitching into
place. Work button-holes on the
right side and sew buttons on the left
side of both the underbodies and the
blouse or coat and the work will
then be completed. Adjust some sort
of pretty ribbon girdle over the under
bodice, as shown in the picture, in
order to be quite certain that the join
ing Of the under bodice and the skirt
will always be hidden from view.
For the II year size the coat and
the skirt will require IN yds. Of ma
terial linen IS in. wide, which is
favorite width this season; for the
under-bodice will be needed e yd. 50
in. wide and for the sleeves and the
collar. "a yd. IS in. wide.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

these over the pattern Of the under
bodice at the armhole edges and cut
pieces wide enough to extend to the
perforations, allowing one-quarter of
an inch extra for the inturned edge,
then haste over the lining lawn. Turn
the inner edges under and stitch to
position and cut the lining away be-
meath. Pin the shoulder and under
arm edges together, meeting the
notches exactly and carefully make
the seams on the right side. Stitch
as closely to the edges as possible, then
turn the seams and stitch again on
the wrong side. making this last
stitching on the marked outline of the
pattern. Turn the front edges under
on the line Of smaller perforations and
turn the edges under second time at
the width of the seam allowance,
haste and stitch neatly into place,
close to the edges. When this is done,
the bodice will be ready for the sleeves
and the collar. In the picture, the
collar is finished with insertion and
with little lace edging. To apply
this trimming neatly, baste the lace
insertion over the edge Of the collar,
mitre carefully at the corners, then
stitch the inner edge to position, using
a very fine needle and very fine
stitches. Cut the material away be-
meath, leaving just sufficient edge to
turn up under the lace. Turn this
edge up, haste and stitch second
time within the first stitching to make
a firm finish. Then trim the inturned
. edges off closely. The second stitch
ing makes firm finish and durable
one and there is no necessity for turn
ing the edge in, for so doing makes
rather heavy collar, whereas, it is de-
sirable to make this one light and
dainty. The lace is drawn up to give
a little fullness and it is whipped on
by hand. Lay the collar over the
coat or blouse with the center backs
and notches exactly meeting and
haste into place. Then cut bias
strip of batiste three-quarters of an
inch in width, lay that over the collar
with the edges meeting and basic.
Stitch the three thicknesses together
on the marked outlines, then trim of
neatly; turn the facing over onto the
under side of the coat, turn another
quarter of an inch under for the in
turn, haste it carefully and stitch close
to the edge. Then roll the collar over
on the perforations.
To make the sleeves, close the seams
with the notches meeting, taking first
narrow seam on the right side, then
second seam on the wrong side
as directed for the shoulders and
the under-arms. If you are using
the long sleeves and wish to
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

one IS chosen. In the diagram are
shown the coatee cut from the linen
and the collar and the sleeves cut from
batiste and the body portion or lining
cut from plain lawn. The skirt is not
given for it 10 simple. straight piece
and there is nothing to show. The
pattern must be laid on the material
with the edge marked by the three
crosses on the lengthwise fold, then,
the straight selvage edges Of the
fabric joined until you have the
needed length. If there is to be
hem, remember to allow extra length
and good width for a hem on
girls dress is three or four inches. In
addition to that you will Of course
need the usual seam allowance for
the inturn.
Mark an around the outside edges
Of the pattern with a tracing wheel or
with chalk and then cut beyond that
line for the seams, allowing three
eighths of an inch if the material Is
closely woven and more if it is loosely
woven for upon the character and
quality Of the material must always
depend the necessary seam width. Be
careful to place the pattern and the
various parts exactly as directed on
.he envelope and as indicated in the
diagrams. The skirt being joined to
me body lining, the coat will be the
last garment to be undertaken, there
fore lay the pieces for that aside.
Mark all the perforations and all the
notches exactly and then mark through
to the under side with the tailors' tacks
as directed in previous lessons and
when you have pulled the two thick
nesses Of the material apart carefully,
you will b ready for the actual ''r-k
- aaaaas.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

IN number Of different ways. The
little coat could be OF colored linen or
piquE, while the skirt, sleeves and
collar are all Of white voile or white
crepe or other thinner material, or, if
something a little DRESSER is wanted,
the skirt and the sleeves could be made
Of white crepe or wolfe and the little
coatee Of taffeta. For the simple
dress, linen scalloped as it is here is
good, but there are also other fabrics
that are quite as appropriate. If an
everyday, morning dress is wanted.
plaid gingham would be pretty for the
skirt, sleeves and collar with plain
rhambray for the coatee, or, cotton
crepe could be used Of thinner and
lighter quality for the skirt and the
slesves and heavier crepe for the
roatee. We really have great many
wonderful materials this season and
this dress is Of the sort that can be
made very dressy and very handsome
or perfectly plain and simple as it is
cut from one material or from an
other. A taffeta coatee over white
crepe or wolfe would of course make
very dressy costume, while the linen
that IL shown here means a pretty
afternoon dress, and if the gingham
were used, it would be quite appro-
pirate for morning occasions, but
Whatever the material, the process Of
making always will be the same and
the directions will be helpful whether
the simplest dress or the most elaborate
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-05-22

Now, because the over-blouse or
coat is sleeveless and with loose arm
holes, and little of the under bodice
will be seen, it will be advisable to
face the armhole edges with material
like the sleeves, for we have not made
it of the batiste, but Of lining lawn
which is heavier and better adapted to
the purpose, since the under bodice
must support the skirt. After cutting
the sleeves and the cuffs, there will be
some trimmings Of the batiste. Lay