The daily telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1901-1926, 1915-09-04
National Influences on Fashion
BY Frederic j. Haskin.

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The uniform of the soldier, the dress
OF the woman worker who has taken
MS plate at home, national costumes
and colors. sentiments OF patriotism,
will this fall WELD strong influences
in the dictates Of that autocratic per-
solage, Dame Fashion.
The versatile kaiser has led of in
this tendency to shape fashions along
national lines by adding the censor
ship OF feminine clothing to his al
ready heavy responsibilities. He has
long believed that uniform for wom-
en- would be quite as appropriate as
for the men Of his army.
Last year he absolutely forbade the
women OF his court to appear in any
clothing imported from France. This
year he recommends that all German
women adopt "a distinctly national
type Of dress" A design for such a
costume was made few weeks ago
under his direction and promptly cir
culated throughout the kingdom and
has already become noticeable in tho
streets Of Berlin and other cities. 1t
has been so generally accepted that
few German women will have tao
temerity to make their winter dresser
fby any other model.
Many women in the United States
have long been advocating American
styles as mark Of patriotism. There
Is much that appeals in manners Of
dress that are peculiar to people.
The Germans anxious to emphasize
the national spirit in every way pos
sible. are adopting the styles provided
for them by their own kaiser.
OF Modest Length.
The first costume destined is intend
ed for general wear. It includes a
moderately full skirt OF modes: length
which is neatly plated into the waist
line. The bodice is semi-tight with
sleeves fairly full and SORT Of fchu
arrangement over the shoulders. This
fichu may be of contrasting material.
A wooden scarf nearly two and half
yards long and half yard wide has
been provided to accompany the dress.
The scarf is to be worn over The head
IN lieu of a hat, but long end, drapei
over the shoulders, forms light wrap.
The court ladies are using the dress
design for making up rich silks WHICH
in many instances have figured in
royal entertainments in happier times.
Now they are being dyed to sobaf col.
ors and made over in the simple man
ner desired by the kaiser. The model
is equally we'll adapted to che wooiens
and other fabrics used by the peasant
woman.
Although the German ruler is ed
vocating the dark cober colors as bet
ter adapted to the suffering of ;;s-
tion in the throes OF warfara, his love
Of bright, colors is we'll known. To
crafty It manufacturers ar. making
large quantities OF the scarfs III cross
stripes Of red and white They are now
being used extensively. German mil.
linery will be scarce this winter and
the picturesque scarf will take its
place.
For German Women.
II The dress and scarf ar. the first
.imodels OF the national German cos
tune. Others are under way. It. is
promised that within a few weeks a
complete assortment Of unifarm de-
signs for women's wear Will be made
public. They will include dresses,
cloaks, underwear, hats and shoes and
each detail will be native German
production. The kaiser intends his
models for the exclusive use IF Ger
man women but, il they arc attractive
enough to warrant it, they viii no
doubt be exhibited for tao ecnaflt Of
American women at an eaflv date. II
they are adopted to any extent it will
be the first time that Germany has
exerted any pronounced influence upon
feminine dress.
Every nation in Europe is repre-
sented in the styles of the fall and the
national influence being evidenced N
the fashion shows OF New York, Chi
cago and other cities give a wider
variety than ever before. These ex-
hibits indicate that the American in
f1uence is strongest Of all, ana that
America this year will come nearer
standing on its own feet from fashion
standpoint than ever be.ote.
The French modis.es soneslm. ago
took alarm at the threatened suspen-
sion OF American tTa6s and began tc
make every effort to hold 1t. The lead
ing Paris modistes sent designs for
their fall creations to their agents in
this country several months ago. These
designs were critically studied by the
Americans and numerous changes sug-
gested. They were returned to their
Ioriginators who meekly accepted the
suggestions in making up the cos,
tunes now being exhibited, thereby
demonstrating an ever increasing
American prestige.
American influence.
For the first time the power of
American influence in the fashion