The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-22
Full Sleeves Appearing in Create,
Force, Though French Models
Offer a Compromise in Cut

rose chiffon. while below the line the
same embroidery design was re-
peated in rose on the blue. There was
a collar of organdy. but the sleeves
of rose chiffon were finished only in
dark blue embroidery above a hem
stitched hem.
Full length, full sleeves Of the sheer
stun are used i'm many of the thick
n thin combination froCks, but the
tight or gauntlet cuffs with fun uppers
which have already been mentioned
are often carried out in the two ma
terials with good effect.
The velvety finish woollcns and the
glossy finished wool.ens on the zlbe-
line order are increasingly In evidence
and Kittens ear cloth, which is perhaps
the finest. silkiest and loveliest of the
glossy zlbeline weaves, has been
chosen for many of the handsomcst
two and three piece costumes shown
for autumn wear, though velvet is
first favorite.
Som of h velvet ~rcdingotes, full,
sleeNcd, drawn in snugly at the waist.
very fun of skirt. fur trimmed and
perhaps braided as well. are cX-
traordinarily picturesque and charm
ing for the woman who ran Yea them
well. Tho fur trimming Is likely to
take the form of a band around the
bottom. wide cuffs and u high, straight
loose collar in which the chin can
lose itself. although this collar Is often
so cut hat II can he worn turned
down as we'll as up. This collar,
which in almost the same form was
worn last winter. is repeated fire.
quently among the early autumn mod
els. but whether IL will be a flNOritc
after the season is fairly launched re-
mains to bc seen. II * not universally
becoming in its upturncd phase. but
when II is becoming It is tremon-
dously chic.
TopCoats assume much importance
as autumn approaches and here again
one finds much fur trimming. though
there are admirable models self
trimmed or trimmed only in velvet.
Nelours dc lainc is. n favored mate
rial for such Colts. and though for the
hard wear coat IL is hardly the thing,
its velvcty softncsS and the dull bloom
which IL gives to most color make
II exceedingly effective and hCCom-
ing. Most of these topcoats are ful
and flaring from the shoulder 90 from
a VIDE, loose girdlc. Collars are very
high, though the height Is obtained
in various ways. The high straight
collar with soft rundown. the high
straight collar with slightly faring
rundown, the scarf collar drawn
closely about the throat with the
scarf M thrown hack over the Shout |
der, the high flaring collar inside Of
which the chin sinks are all offered.
but up to nov there are few Of the
square back big collars slopiug away
from the front. which were so popu-
lar last sason. \ rather wide fchu
shaped collar. rounded in tho hack, !
is used in fur and, hugging the shout
ders closely, has a dcmurc look in
Keeping with tho rodinEotc.
Apropos of furs, the now fur coats
range from short acpuc farIng
widely at the back to rodiruotcs
reaching Almost or entirely 20 the
frock skirt bottom. These last ar,
an expensive proposition. since. long
and fun. they call for largo quantities
of fur. Conscqucutlv the less cNpcu-
sive furs will he those mos, often used
for such coats and the cheaper s.l H.
skins and Caracul will doubtless he In
great demand Even IN these potts
the long coats will not bo CHEAP. "s-
pcCially as the smurtoyt models are
trimmed in contrasting flrs. often
more costly than the fur Of which the
coats are built up
Beaver seems likely to hc popular
for trimming purposes AMI the longer
haired fIrs such rs lynx. either died
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