The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-03-28

W.rdrobcs should not be planned and
made. and the busy season is beginning
u the dressmaking world.
Tailors are the first to feel tho move
ncnt for tho spring street suit IL the
earliest need of the new season, and
though women no longer wear new
and brave attire by way of Faster cele-
hration, rs a laggard who hasn't a
priug hat and a spring suit IN her
,'nSct by that time. In fact. the spring
hat may begin to he shabby by Easter.
row that it starts doing duty in Janu-
drl. IN absurd fashion. that of bios
-onng out in straw and tullc and
sHoWcr hcadgcar while the snow is
,,Il dying. but each year more womcn
ndorsc ii. and already. in March, this
..ar's spring millinery is almost an
I'D story There will lie new varia-
tons. of course. but the themes are
familiar.
one might say the same OF the
-pi.ug tailored suits, for their lines
tic tho lines tina, have been used since
40 dWiut"r. and the fashion openings
ororght no surprises. though they
-iuwcd many attractive details of belt
nd pocket and button and plat. The
r.uc-. tho castor and beige shades. the
rays and the al, black or black and
white effects have things very much
hei- own way in the suit world. some
~,ycc,dingly smart French models have
,un, over IN black. with a very mar
ow white line checking 1t off in inch
.atiares. and there are good models
900 IN the black with hair line stripe
n, white. These goods. severely tall
urct. have. a more distinguished air
man On. more popular black n white
.ncuhcrds ar broken checks.
gray buckskin covert h a APP
reaches tho putty tone, though II Is
more b%ecoiningly soft than putty, Is
mother material that has been much
,S,d FOR plainly tailored models and
( slightly newer than the same ma
.rial IN beige and castor tones.
Eoiuh not 50 generally becoming.
Tho genuine smooth finished covert
as suffered somewhat from its winter
,ouulsrity, and where tho covert col
urs are retained the modish woman ~
Ule,v 10 wear them in huckskin covert.
Deauyillc suit.ng, Belgian cord. Tip
,erary cloth or gabard!ne.
Among afternoon and evening frocks
ono already sees many copies or inc
models shown by the importers. \
title change here. a little chanCe
here. sometimes a Distressing transla-
on into cheap and ineffective mate
r.1ls. hut one recognizes the source OF
aspiration.
ono of the much copied models Is
ne paquin frock of dark blue tuile
,ycr metallic cloth If brighter blue.
Mention of this frock was made IN
THE StS last week. but the sketch
90 It shown in our large picture to-
lay. will give. a more definite idea man
any. description. The shallow oval of
The neck. running down into a in
he. back: the fu1l layers OF tulle in
me Skirt. with rose clusters tucked
Irto tho folds here and there; the How
nc tulle sleeves. the snugly girdled
waist. are all interesting. but II is the
color scheme that appeals. the hlmv
lark blue over a foundation in which
liver and Old blue are interviewer,
nd the girdlc OF soft rose and beige
nj violet and green.
II Is in suggestions such as this
.olor.nG that imported models are
.btcfy valuable. The trocks them
selves may he too extreme for quie'
rl.teS or the IN dels may he copied
M often for fastidious tastes. but nc
me can study a collection of French
rocks without storing up valuable
leis for adaptation.
Drecolrs hack dinner gown. with
"a long. full sleeves OF tulle and It's
so'uminous tulle skirt, has n clever
i,te satin bodice that can he easily
.upitd. and the openwork shoulder
.''aIs Of jet hugles are effective ano
e,~.ly duplicated N crystal, clear OF
co'urcd. 4 simple frock this, hut n
considerable distinction. The hOuS'
cot Dr,cull has a way OF uniting thos,
$40 qualities.
cabot Snurs? We'll. Cabot Sour
ave u way Of doing as they please
80 rose and silver evening Sowl
- our central group is evidence o
shat When designers are ,puttin!
rdrds upon yards of material int
skirts. giving tho silhouette an enor
NOUS flare toward the bottom. Gallo
ike, a width of stunning brocade
~Wathcs 1t closely around the figure
ives IT a slinky trail in the back
Yut allows il to show the founce o
much abbreviated silver lace under
-.Iyt I'm front, and throws a handfu
Of roses ~ the mere wisp OF corsage
Tho resul, : lovely in its way. Il
Z. ir hearts most OF the Xix
r. uottcr than the frocks of the billow
'n. skirts. hut they would hesitat
20 wear il without the Cabot labe
g.. the outside so bent are they upol
wr.r.nc the sort OF thing they Sc
other women wearing. :,