davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

these over the pattern Of the under
bodice at the srmhole edges and cut
pieces wide enough to extend to the
perforations, allowing one-quarter Of
an inch extra for the inturned edge,
then haste over the lining lawn. Turn
the inner edges under and stitch to
position and cut the lining away be-
meath. Pin the shoulder and under
arm edges together, meeting the
notches exactly and carefully make
the seams on the right side. Stitch
as closely to the edges as possible. then
turn the seams and stitch again on
the wrong side, making this last
stitching on the marked outline Of the
pattern. Turn the front edges under
on the line Of smaller perforations and
turn the edges under a second time at
the width Of the seam allowance,
haste and stitch neatly into place,
close to the edges. When this is done,
the bodice will be ready for the sleeves
and the collar. IL the picture, the
collar is finished with insertion and
with a little lace edging. To apply
this trimming neatly, basic the lace
insertion over the edge Of the collar,
mitre carefully at the corners, then
stitch the inner edge TO position, using
a very fine needle and very fine
stitches. Cut the material away be-
meath, leaving just sufficient edge to
turn up under the lace. Turn this
edge I'D, haste and stitch a second
time within the first stitching TO make
a firm finish. Then trim the inturned
edges off closely. The second stitch
ing makes a firm finish and durable
one and there is no necessity for turn
ing the edge in. for so doing makes a
rather heavy collar, whereas, it is de-
sirable TO make this one light and
dainty. The lace is drawn up TO give
a little fullness and it is whipped on
by hand. Lay the collar over the
coat or blouse with the center backs
and notches exactly meeting and
haste into place, Then cut a bias
strip of batiste three-quarters OF an
inch in width, lay that over the collar
with the edges meeting and haste.
Stitch the three thicknesses together
on the marked outlines, then trim of
neatly; turn the facing over onto the
under side Of the coat, turn another
quarter Of an inch under for the in
turn, haste it carefully and stitch close
to the edge. Then roll the collar over
on the perforations.
To make the sleeves, close the seams
with the notches meeting, taking first
a narrow seam on the right side, then
a second seam on the wrong side
as directed for the shoulders and
the under-arms II you are using
the long sleeves and wish TO
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

one is chosen. In the diagram are
shown the coatee cut from the linen
and the collar and the sleeves cut from
hatiste and the body portion or lining
cut from plain lawn. The skirt is not
given for it is simple, straight piece
and there is nothing to show. The
pattern must be laid on the material
with the edge marked by the three
crosses on the lengthwise fold, then,
the straight selvage edges Of the
fabric joined until you have the
needed length. II there is to be a
hem, remember to allow extra length
and a good width for a hem on a
girls dress is three or four inches. In
addition to that you will OF course
need the usual seam allowance for
the inturn.
Mark all around the outside edges
Of the pattern with a tracing wheel or
with chalk and then cut beyond that
line for the seams, allowing three
eighths Of an inch il the material is
closely woven and more If it is loosely
woven for upon the character and
quality Of the material m1st always
depend the necessary seam width. Be
careful to place the pattern and the
various parts exactly as directed on
the envelope and as indicated in the
diagrams. The skirt being joined to
the body lining, the coat will be the
last garment TO be undertaken. there
fore lay the pieces for that aside.
Mark all the perforations and all the
notohes exactly and then mark through
to the under side with the tailors' tacks
as directed in previous lessons and
when you have pulled the two thick
nesses Of the material apart carefully.
you will be ready for the actual work
Of sewing.
Evening journal., 1915-05-13


in a number OF different ways. The
little coat could be Of colored linen or
pique, while the skirt, sleeves and
collar are all Of white wolfe or white
crepe or other thinner material, or, il
something a little dressier is wanted,
the skirt and the sleeves could be made
Of white crepe or wolfe and the little
coatee Of taffeta. For the simple
dress, linen scalloped as It is here is
good, but there are also other fabrics
that are quite as appropriate. II an
everyday, morning dress is wanted,
plaid gingham would be pretty for the
skirt, sleeves and collar with a plain
ohambray for the coatee, or, cotton
crepe could be used Of a thinner and
lighter quality for the skirt and the
sleeves and a heavier crepe for the
coatee. We really have a great many
wonderful materials this season and
this dress is Of the sort that can be
made very dressy and very handsome
or perfectly plain and simple as it is
cut from one material or from an
other A taffeta coatee over white
crepe or wolfe would Of course make a
very dressy costume, while the linen
that is shown here means a pretty
afternoon dress, and II the gingham
we're used, it would be quite appro-
pirate for morning occasions, but
whatever the material, the process Of
making always will be the same and
the directions will be helpful whether
The simplest dress or the most elaborate
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

Now. because the over-blouse or
coat is sleeveless and with loose arm
holes. and a little Of the under bodice
will be seen. it will be advisable to
face the armhole edges with material
like the sleeves, for we have not made
it Of the batiste, but Of lining lawn
which is heavier and better adapted to
the purpose, since the under bodice
must support the skirt. After cutting
the sleeves and the cuffs, there will be
some trimmings Of the batiste. Lay
Evening journal., 1915-05-13
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS.

DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS.
s545 Plain Blouse or Guimpe. "a TO "a
bust.
$3.50 Over Dress with Waist and Tunic
in One, Small 81 or 50, Medium IS or
30, Large AZ or "A bust.
s554-A Two-Piece Semi Circular Skirt,
"a to "a waist.
S4sI Blouse with Full Fronts, "a to ~
bust.
s6o4 Two-Piece Skirt, "a to "a waist.
$50 Gathered Blouse with Belt, 81 to
40 bust.
s44I-A Circular Skirt. "A to "a waist.
s636-A Girls Dress, s TO IA years
s54s Princesse Gown. "a to - bust.
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

I INEN is always a hand
some and a desirable ma
terial for summer gowns,
but this year it is exceptionally
attractive for several reasons.
There is a new sort on the
market which is claimed to be
non-crushable, also the linen
is to be found in a really Won
derful variety Of colors and in
addition, it frequently is COM
bined with crepe and with wolfe
and other materials Of lighter
weight, so that in the one fab
ric is to be found much oppor-
tunity. In the picture, are
shown two good models. The
tunic gown is made Of white
linen in eyelet style and COM
bined with the same material
in an exquisite shade Of buff.
The costume is a very charm
ing one, eminently smart and
graceful and it also is practical
inasmuoh as it is available for
many needs. The transparent
frills Of fine lace make a pretty,
becoming and fashionable finish
for neck and sleeves.
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

Here. they are scalloped and the seal
lops are very pretty, but II that seems
TO represent too great labor, you can
bind them with some pretty washable
braid or apply bias strip Of material
over all the edges and stitching into
place. Work button-holes on the
right side and sew buttons on the left
side Of both the underbodies and the
blouse or coat and the work will
then be completed. Adjust some sort
Of pretty ribbon girdle over the under
bodice. as shown in the picture, in
order 10 be quite certain that the join
ing Of the under bodice and the skirt
will always be hidden from view.
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

ings to the under side Of the coat and
haste with Just a little extending
beyond the seam to give the effect Of
a piping and TO make a neat finish.
Stitch around all the edges about one
eighth OF an inch within, then make the
pockets. To do this, cut two pieces Of
material for each one three inches deep
and one inch wider than the opening.
Turn the outer edges Of the facines on
the lower edges Of the openings under
for one-quarter Of an inch and haste
one strip under each, then stitch into
place. Turn the upper edges Of the
two other pieces for the pockets
under for one-quarter Of an inch and
arrange over the facinss on the upper
edges Of the pockets and stitch. Then
haste the sides and the lower edges Of
the pockets together and II you like.
curve the ends. Stitch very neatly.
close to the edges and then bind over
the stitching with very thin seam
binding or with bias folds that can be
bought ready for use. Join the shout
der and under-arm edges. making the
double seams as usual and you viii
then be ready to finish the edges.
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

For the ~ year size the coat and
the skirt will require "a yds. Of ma
terial linen IS in. wide, which is a
favorite width this season; for the
under-bodice will be needed 4 I'd. SO
in. wide and for the sleeves ana the
collar. Il I'd. IS in. wide.
Evening journal., 1915-05-13
ONE of the NEW COAT DIRE
How it is made---told
By MAY MANTON

AS first step in the making Of the
under bodice or lining, form darts and
to do that, bring the corresponding
lines Of perforations exactly together
and haste on the perforations
Evening journal., 1915-05-13

1T IS doubtful II there is any
other feature Of the season
that is quite so exclusively
its own as the way in which
elk is utilized. Taheta and
crepe de chine are made in lin
eerie styles and the foulards are
exceptionally attractive and de-
sirable. The princesse gown
that is shown above exempli-
fees a lowered taffeta with trim
ming Of plain and it is very
charming, very summor-like and
exceedingly dainty. II all silk
is not liked, a similar effect
could be obtained by using silk
ruehes on a foundation Of cot
ton crepe for the erepes arc as
beautiful as silk itself and the
two combine perfectly. The
foulard gown is made with
sleeves Of silk wolfe which give
a guimpe effect and the little
girls dress by its side shows a
favorite use Of bordered cotton
voile that makes a most inter
esting and attractive feature Of
summer styles.
Evening star., 1915-06-17

THE NORTHUMBERLAND,
New Hampshire Ave. and V St.
Strictly high-class. hreproof building: roof
garden; all night elevator and telephone serv-
Ice: ali outside rooms; shower in each apart
ment; servants rooms and ba tbs; laundry; moor
plans furnished on application.
One four-room and bath apartment. -. .$5o0 00
One six room and bath apartment 1910
One seven room and bath apartment. 1oO
Apply on premises or at the WASHINGTON
fIOAN AND TRUST COMPANY.
Evening star., 1915-06-17

FOR RENT
A LOVELY CORNER APART
MENT, ONLY $50.
Downtown, in that well kept
apartment, the Frederick, 9th and
New York ave. NV; exception
ally large, light, cheerful rooms;
large closets.
STONE & FAIRFAX,
1912 New York Ave.
Evening star., 1915-06-17
COUNTRY BOARD.

WANTED-Boarders for the summer months on
farm in fine rolling country near Bull Run
mountains; frst-class board and accommoda-
tions; references asked and given; no children
Mrs Ella H. Peters, Haymarket, Va.
MOUNTAIN VIEW FARM, near station-com-
Portable rooms; cool house; bathing, fishing,
tennis court. good table; seven dollars pef
week. A. N. Rust. Purcellvtlle, Va.
CAPE ELIZABETH COTTAGE. Cape Elizabeth.
Maine; comfortable rooms and excellent board:
senA for booklet. Address NJ. E. Tinkham. 81
St. James ave.. Boston. Mass, until June 8.
1y2s
FINE run for automobiles over state road to
Concord Farm. 8 miles from Wash; rwy. sta.
minutes' walk; trains convenient for once
holders; large rooms; verandasi beautiful shade:
ABUNDANCE Of ice and milk: bath and phones
Upper Marlboro 26.12.) Address Miss Rebecca
Berry Ritchie, P. @. county, Nd.
PRIVATE FAMILY = NICE HOME; LARGE
farm; desires boarders for summer. Mrs.
OHAA RHOoKN0. SomArset, Va.
Evening star., 1915-06-17


New basement apartment, $12.5O.
1912 y. H. AVE. NV.
rooms and bath .......-.. .$60Oo ana $oa.oO
2722 CONN. AVE.
8 rooms and bath 5000
BELMAR, 1883 Belmont ST. NV.
5 rooms and bath. $42oo
COLONIAL, 1905 30th st. NV.
rooms and bath. $Z4.oo
FAIRFAX. 300 East Capitol st.
8 rooms and bath .$So.W
FRANKLIN, 1913 18th st.
rooms and bath. .$3oOo TO $Sf-oo
GARFIELD. 18th and Eye sts NV.
HAWTHORNE, 1927 Eye st. NV.
No. S 18th floor. rooms and bath ---.-. <Z3.S0
LOWELL. 1903 18th st. NV.
4th floor, rooms and bath. -........ $-o.oo
NOTTINGHAM. 2121 st. NV.
rooms and bath. .S2I 50
1909 14th ST NV 4th floor. 5r & bath. .S25.t0
THE LOWELL. 1907 14th 81. NV.
End floor. 5 rooms and bath. 90
723 11th ST. NV. 2nd & 3rd ns. SIS. 90 $4,000
I'LL PA. AVE. NV, 2nd floor. ar. bath. .$3O0o
i713 pa. AVE, NV, 3rd H., 5r and b.. $3.50
25O6 PA. AVE. NV, rooms and bath. SO %
25O6 Pa AVE, Bird floor 4r. and b. -. $3.50
73 P ST. Me-, 3 rooms and bath. .-.... $lo.so
WEAVER BROS.
at
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1915-06-27
.Conlparafipe Cost Of Var
Big Demand for Munitions.

10000. eco puslic subscripd 500;
0ooOoo
Sa6onai defence bonds Issued up to
March 10, 1915, yielded $T24o0.Oo0.
IN Germany the Kruppa subscribed
5000 COO to thewar loan. and up 70 April
a $500. 600, Oe0 was paid out IN cash on
the second German war loan. he Ger,
man chemical trade reported N loss OF
$eJ000o;o 600 up TO February
War supplies were ordered BY Great
Britain and her allies IN the United States
as follows EEK
4 Automobile trucks ordered by British
and French, 1914, s30.Ooo,00
Automobiles exported to Europe from
the United States IN 1914 totailed S33r
1886 ,s;
Eight thousand cannon ordered from
Bethlehem Steel Company for British on
sIay20. S1G15o,OcO
This same plants now turning outdaily
70. 900 shrapne1 and $1,000 one pounder
and other small arms. ~
Belgian orders for uniforms IN the
United States on April IS amounted to
S1,IJ0O0o-
Russia purchased the foaoWIinrSS--
Eighty million dollars. worth ee shezik
twenty per cent of this amour. IA CaSaca
$160oo,Ooo, end eighty per cent IN the
sGnited States, $4,000 eco; shrapnel from
the United states on April 30 5000
0oc car az1es from the che Tnited States
on May IL $1,000 ra5lroad and Other
equipment. from Canada, 5000 600, and
from United States, S6e0 600:
Itily purchased from the United states
IN Januar5 900 bushels of wheatfor
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1915-06-27

AMONG the items of interest are those
pertaining to the cost of the var Great
Britain spenss fJsS31,0o0 1000 GS9.155,0oo.-
00o1 Il; her fight against Napoleon The
South african War cost England f211.-
100000 Isl, 055.oo0; COO In the present
war the total amount raised mp to April
(24o daysls $3.50 coo, 0o6. OF tins
total s19oo00.e00 was adysnced to the
Dominion and Crown colonies for war ex-
penses $5o.0o5Oo to Belgium and 81
100000 to Serbia
The vote Of credit for $3.50 09o0oO
was the largest single vote ever put
before the Englsh House of Commons
and covers The period to the second week
IN Jufy, 1915.
1nda contribused $4,000 600 for the
year beginning April /
On February 16 Mr.. LLOYD George
stated that one third OF the British
streassh was at :vrar- 10 place the re-
mining two-thirds IN service would cost
SNDoo,O 600 3 day during the current year
Il was estin1ared that the warSwoufd cost,
$40, coo. 100000 for eighteen months, in-
cludinS the expenditure Of moneys prop
erU destroyed and loss of Labor
Great Britain has also begun payment
on.cotton seIzed BY her war ships. paying
Se95OO0, or 10 per cent on;cargdes whose
also filed $4,000 insurance claims on
English companies
In France public s0bscript cons
pared with government appropriations
for the wax were as oisows::--
In 1911 the Bank of France supplied
The Sunday telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1914-1927, 1915-06-27

s4aqast Of B,unsaescI; his s1ud couein,.
Grand Dake 4doZf Frederick of Mccx-ken-
56uyy-Strclit=5-, has third cousin. King
F5icdyieH 4atgust of Saronv: his third
cousin. 4rckdmIc Charles Francis. heir 70
s1e Austrian throne. and has third cotss5n,
Ernst Bernhard. Duke OF Sore,Mcias-
isgep. The Tscr OF Rmssio IS at aecr,
,eEth his brothey-i,.-le.e, Grand Duke.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29

Mr.. Charles ID Simpson. Forest
Assistant. has returned from three
weeks visit at his home Mortified,
MINI. He reports an enjoyable trip
and that everyone back there seemed
to be enjoying prosperity.
Cleveland Wells is on the sick list,
suffering from bad attack of rheu-
matism.
Howard Lee has returned from a
long visit to Utah.
VIM. Dayley is now visiting in
California.
Mrs. Cynthia Willard is slowly
improving in health.
Bishop H. C. Haight went to Boise
on Sunday. He is much interested
in the preservation of the Albion
Normal School.
Lewis, the new photographer is
getting established in the Dahlquist
building.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29

causing the Forest Officers some
anxiety, as, if there is not great
precipitation, it means short
crop of forage and a very danger
Gus fire season.
The local Forest officers are
omewhat disturbed because of
the fact that instances have come
to their attention where people
have cut and removed posts from
the forest without Free Use Per
mits, and in some cases. even un-
der permits, have sold or traded
them to others. This IS a viola
ton of the law and it is hoped
the practice will stop before pros.
ecutions become necessary.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29
SUGAR.


Next to the fats, sugar when used
bv the body, yields more heat, weight
for weight, than any other food.
Hence sugar is good winter food
especially for those who are out of
doors considerable; likewise sugar
is bad summer food. Because sug-
ar is highly concentrated food. it
must be eaten in small quantities.
furthermore, on account of its tend
ency to ferment shortly after reach
ing the stomach it must be eaten
with due regard to the rules of diges-
ton. Those whose digestion is i'm
paired should use sugar with consid
cradle caution.
Eat Sweets With a Meal.
The stomach performs its work
much better if our foods are not too
concentrated Following this rule
we should never eat sugar or sweets
alone, but always with plenty of 9th
er foods. In fact it has been demon
strated by experiment that if more
than one-fifth of the contents of the
stomach at the close of meal is sugar
then the digestive juices will not be
excreted at all, with the result that
the meal will not only fail to be d.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29
Forestry Notes.

A visit to the Forest Service
Office will convince anyo one that
this is not a plav.time for the
Office force. Supervisor Campbell
states that they are swamped at
present, and that Grazing Arph-
cations are coming in at a rapid
rate.
People who desire to Craze
stock on the Mliidoka Forest the
coming season should take notice
that their applications must be
on file IN the supervisors office,
at Oakley, Idaho, on or before
February 10th, or they may not
he considered.
The unusual light and dry snow
fall in the higher mountains is
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29

gested, but it will rapidly ferment
and irritate the stomach and poison
thu system. So that sweets should
be eaten with other foods, especially
those which are not concentrated.
Natural Sugars Are Best.
Granulated sugar is about the most
difficult to digest of all sugars. while
the brown and maple are more easily
digested. Glucose is probably the
most easily digested form of sugar,
when it is pure it is valuable food
The best sugars are the natural sug-
ars. such as occurs in greater CT less
quantities in all fruits. and quite
abundantly in figs. dates, prunes and
raisins' by Combining these. sweet
fruits with those Of less sugar. valu
able winter deserts made be made.
A winter lunch may be made of baked
apples prepared by taking large cores
out of the apples, filling the centers
with raisins. dates, or figs and baking
without any other sweeting. Plenty
of cream on the apples, and small
piece of cheese will add sufficient
food to make a lunch for the average
person.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29
WANT COLUMN.


WANTED One of the large mag
azine publishing houses desires to
mploy an &C tive man or woman in
this community to handle a special
plan which has proven unusually
profitable. Good opening for right
party. Address with two references
Publisher, Box l55, Times So. Sta,
New York City.
For Sale-1000 bushel of Winter
Apples, finest ever grown in Cassia
county. Prices to suit everybody
JOHN ADAMS, Oakley.
Phone 68
Hay for Sale $50 per ton in the
stack. W. 7. Cranney, Island.
For Sale-Work Horse, or will
trade for COW
J. b. Fairchild, RID. l.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29
Social Needs Imperative.

The average country boy and girl
have very little opportunity for real
enjoyment, and have, as a rule.
vague conception of the meaning of
pleasure and recreation. 1t is to fill
this void in the lives of country youth
that the rural church has risen TO
the necessity Of providing entertain
ment. as well as instruction, to its
membership among the young. The
children and young people of the
church should meet when religion is
not even mentioned. 1t has been
found safest for them to meet fire.
quently under the direction and care
of the church To send them into the
world with no social training exposes
them to grave perils and to try to
keep them out of the world with no
social privileges is sheer folly. There
Is a social nature to both old and
young, but the social requirements of
the young are imperative. The church
must provide directly or indirectly
some modern equivalent for the husk-
ing bee, the quilting bee and the sing
ing schools of the old days. In one
way or another the social instincts
Of our young people must have oppor
tunity for expression, which may
take the form of clubs, parties, pic
mics or other forms of amusement
One thing is certain. and that is that
the church cannot take away the
dance, the card party and the theatre
unless it can offer in it's place sat
isfying substitute in the form of moro
Dleasing recreation
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29
WHY WE ARE SICK.

Sickness is due largely to the way
we live and care for the body; a good
part Of our diseases are either the
direct or indirect result of bad body
care Many chronic disorders may
be cured simply through proper diet
and hygienic habits in general. For
information on this subject read the
January number of the Hygienist,
edited by Or. X. K. Daniels, who
writes for this paper. At your news
dealers or send ten cents to the Hy-
gienist Publishing Co., Majestic Bid,
Denver, Colorado.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1915-01-29

DO you know that of all the minor
ailments colds are by far the most
dangerous? 1t is not the colds them
selves that you need to fear, but the
serious diseases that they so often
cad to. For that reason every cold
should be gotten rid Of with the least
possible delay. To accomplish this
you will find Chamberlain's Cough
Remedy a great help to you. 1t
loosens cold, relieves the lungs, aids
expectoration and enables the system
to throw off the cold. For sale by
all dealers.