The Washington times., 1915-01-07
AMONG ERUDITE discussions.

1t is from the s0O-pase annual report
Of the Smithsonian Institution. And it
is contained in an article on fashions
indexe6 among crudite discussions OF
'"The Minoan and Mycenaean Element
in Hellenic Life" and "Habits Of
Fiddler-Crabs."
In this report made public today. is
contained a review Of fashions from the
days Of the Egyptians to modern times.
The scientific verdict of the author Is
that there is nothing new under the
sun in fashions Of the present day.
Pierre Clerget, director Of the high
school of commerce of Lyon. France,
has spent years in a close study of the
economic. moral. religious. and social
aspects of fashion. In his article con-
tributed to the Smithsonian report he
deals with the economic and social role
Of fashion.
In Resplendent Garments.
He describes the frescoes found In
the Mycenaean palace Of Knossos In
Crete, painted 1,4O years B. c.. show
ing "ladies Of the court clothed in re-
splendent garments, with enormous leg
of-mutton sleeves, held to the neck by
narrow ribbon; their fiounced skirts,
| ornamented with embroidered bands,
expanded behind by enormous bustles. y
| In the revolving cycle Of fashions this
| style. 1t will be remembered. reap
peared in this country about the time Of
the civil war.
Fashions changed in Rome under the
empire. according to Prof. Clerget. and
they continued to do SO In France until,
about the fifteenth century. when
changes began arriving every decade
| o,tth e.
| frequent transformations
| 1t was not until the thirteenth cen.
| tury. though, that women.s dress be-
gan to show marked variations in type
terial and color. But In that century
dresses BEGAN to be designed following
the lines ii the body.
Like Present Fashions.
| The author then sketches briefly the
development of fashion from that day
until the close of the eighteenth CEN
tury. and his description shows an evo-
luton strikingy similar to that Of mod
ern fashions within the past few years
Then. toward the end of the seven
teenth century. the fullness diminish
ed, giving way to padded dresses, con.
cealed under mantle wraps. and In 1851
they reappeared again. Reduction ir
the size of the skirt continued unit
about 1850, wnen fullneSS again Game
iNto fashion, and by 1875 the skirt.
were ridicuously full, expanded will
great hoops. There was another re-
action and the hoop skirt gave wa!
first to the hustle. then in 1893 came
the one-piece dress, with a running
string and without ornamentation
Greek robes were seen at fetes and oI
the stage"
Prominent MOdiste Dictates.
1t has only been since the days o
Worth, in lS46. states Prof, Clcrset
that the prominent modiste has beer
the creating artist of fashion.
/ To-day" he continues, the styl'
is made public by manncquins at th'
race course. on the street. at the thea
ter. by actors on the stage. and by
social functions"
Assaults against fashion by the clerg.
is nothing new. Very early the write
states, popes and councils frowne'
upon low-necked gowns and dresse
with trains, described as dresses ter
TX prescribed hip pads of more thai
five feet. gold chains and pieces o
jcwelry with or without enamel. In l56
he regulated the garments of each class
permitting silk only to princcsses an
| duchesscs, forbiddinE velvet
| 'lr 1917 chamber of coInmerc
aroused much excitement attempting l.
check the use Of clinsing dresses. Thi