The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-08-15
Simplicity in Trimming
Marks Smartest of I'm
; ported Models, but
! Practical Ones Are
Lacking
n, ELEANOR mOYT BRAINERD

L 1NDEh FAN mas oeen thore III
teresting than discreet in re-
cent seasons.
There are always the practical and
demure garment for those Of practi-
cal and demure bent, but a casual
stroll through the underwear depart
ment Of any shop that keeps pace with
fashions whims will give one a vague
and uncomfortable suspicion hat the
PRACTICAL and demure haven't the gen.
eral appeal they once had.
30 nice people really wear Them"
said a little old lady with a move Of
her hand toward certain flmy foolish
ness labelled robes de mutt.
"Our best customers buy them" the
saleswoman announced superciliously.
The little old lady sighed.
81 was afraid So" she admitted.
~Please show me something that isn't
Transparent and that will boil"
And, after all, the average woman
also wants for general wear some
thing that isn't transparent and that
will boil. She may lay a foundation
Of tulle or wolfe de sole or chiffon for
her party frock and she may refuse
even to consider the sturdy envelop-
ing undergarments Of olden times. but
che wants at least a wisp OF sleeve
and she doesn't consider the waist line
che desirable limit for decolletage and
she doesn't approve Of nighties slit all
the way up to the waist or melting
into a single layer Of tulle well above
the knees.
There are charming things. there
are even impractical and coquettish
thing that meet these objections. Al
most all Of the batiste and lawn used
for modish underwear now Is very
sheer. but at least some Of 1t makes
q pretence at opaqueness, as does the
crepe de chine which has met with
such success for underwear purposes.
and there are delightful undergar-
nents in these materials for those
who do not yearn toward futurist
achievements in purple or sulphur yell
low satin and do not even covet cob
webby CONNECTIONS of pale pink or
blue chiffon.
The new froek modes offer more OPP
~rortunity for self-assertiveness on the
rart of underwear than did the modes
Of a few seasons ago. and undergar-
rnerts reduced to the minimum l n
quantity have expanded largely.
though they make up for fulness by
softness and sheerness-and shortness.
Like the frocks with which they are
worn. undergarments are much ABB
trevlated. Pe%tticoats Of course nus
rise with the skirt, but drawers AMI
ehemiscs have risen in proportion. the
modish chemise now ending at least
Elk inches above the knees. and he
drawers too clearing the knees by
several inches. though not so short
a. the chemise. Drawers. by the way.
are one Of the revivals. Where they
had not. like the Boojum, silently
vanished away" giving pace TO tights
or the envelope chemise arrangement.
they had shrunk to clinging. smoked
form. with as little fulness in them as
possible.
Now, however, one sees the umbrella
shaped and spreading drawers again.
smooth about the hips and waist. but
eoft faring as they descend and some
times fllled a little across the back,
the fulness perhaps held by an elastic
band. The envelope chemise con-
tinues its popularity. but the very
short. very decollete. slightly shaped
and snugly trimmed chemise Is popu-
lar in both silk and batiste.
This idea OF simplicity Is strongly
emphasized among the smartness OF
the imported underwear and Is a
natural result OF the fad for six
underwear which does not enc Itself
10 trimming as do the fine cotton n
linen stuffs.