Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-07-18

One of the dress creators will give
a strong effect of waistline, although
there is no belt to mark it. but Nine.
Cheru: shapes her garment by thu
i name trif1e away from normal wais:
line, letting the burden of carrying the
garment fall upon the shoulders. 1t is
said that the polonaise will not be worn
over a skirt and blouse but bnly over a
one-piece frock. Yet the woman who
prefers long coats to short ones as a
part of the tailored suit should not
be led into thinking she can have her
own way when the autumn comes. for II
, is announced that these redingotes will
be the only divergence from the uni
formity of the short jacket.
That fact should comfort every one
who has the graceful lines of a woman
at heart. because no figure can stand
the knee length coat and the six-yard
skirt. 1t was tentatively tried last
October by the fashionable dressmak-
ers, but it was soon abandoned.
Each year we hear the cry that the
separate blouse is doomed to extinction.
yet the decades pass without this ill
prophecy proving true. While summer
lasts it is possible that women will
wear thin waists with skirts that carry
coats and II is earnestly hoped that the
separate white wash blouse will never
be banished from the wardrobe. for no
II.
accepting all these facts, still it must
be faced condition, not a theory,
that the one-piece frock will be by far
the more fashionable outfit than the
three-piece suit.
This autumn will see it at high tide.
That is the news from across the
water and there is no reason to doubt
that all of the great designers are
bending their efforts to secure origin
ality in one-piece frocks that are
ance of a skirt with a short jacket.
| The latter idea has been worked out
rather successfully during the early
summer. but the majority of women
passed it by, choosing the regulation
coat suit in preference. their reason
being the traditional one that one can
| lift a coat and be cool in a transparent
| blouse, but the attached waist must re-
main. This is true when cloth is used
for a coat and skirt, but the fashion
able materials of this summer are not
cloth, barring the thinnest kind of
serge. And blue serge, they tell us.
will retain its high position again dur
ing the autumn, which is good news
| for the most of us.
X X
| There does not pass a season that
| there is not some sort of a struggle
| when the frock comes to the part of
| a dividing line. Cheruit does not want
dividing line marked out definitely
on the frock or coat, and Premet and
Jenny seem to delight in placing the
belt where it was in other days when
women boosted of the smallness of
their waist far more than they did
the largeness of their virtues.
In this struggle Nine. Cheruit is far
figure. We have not allowed our
| selves undue 1ax1ty in the developme mt
| of that almost straight line that runs
/ from bust to the hips. to be happy If
| garments that are graceful only when
| the waist line is slender and in direct
| contrast to all that We have thought
admirably fashionable for decade.
| One serious minded designer will at
tempt the empire waist line with a
tiny bodice above 1t and wide skirt
that is nodded to the hips, reaching
its flare after it passes them: An
other will continue and emphasize the
so-called normal waist. and yet others
will follow Cheruit in sloping the
waist. indefinitely toward the upper
curve of the hips.
are not merged into each other. then
each woman will be happy. for she
; can suit her own figure. She has en-
joyed such an unwonted degree OF
license in the matter of choosing fash
ions for her especial type that she ma y
not be persuaded, easily. to walk again
in a straight and narrow path laid
down for her by the sartorial council
of ten.
It all looks, however, as If the divid
ing line, wherever it may be placed
will not really divide anything. The
separate bodice will have SO many
enemies allied against 1t that it may
surrender it's first place and be con
sidered only as a substitute in time
of need.
The first question an American woman
asks is how she can be comfortable IN
our superheated houses when she wears
a waist of cloth, but the answer Il
this is that the designers will obviate
that discomfort by putting in thin
sleeves and yoke.