davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
DICTATED BY FASHION.

Mixed cheviots are smart for street
suits. Brown-and- white and blue-and-
white are both in very good style.
There Is a new silk, soiree. which is
really something between taffeta and
satin. and will probably prove dura-
BILE as we'll as charming in texture and
finish.
Some sort of fullness or decoration on
the sleeve at or just above the elbow
is feature of many of the new French
sleeves, especially those of Paquin.
Sometimes there is a cuff. sometimes
ruche or frill, sometimes an arrange
ment Of folds or pleats.
A combination of two fabrics is car
ried out in many of the autumn's
smartest frocks. Serge or gabardine
with satin or taffeta, velvet and tafYeta,
chiffon and taffeta-these and many
other combinations are good.
velveteen in any of the new shades
Is in good style for autumn and win
ter wear. 1t is especially lovely in
seal brown and in the different fash
ionable shades of plum and pansy.
Silver-and-gold lace are used largely
in the imported models for evening
gowns.
A smart collar is simply wide band
of thin naturalization. tulle-gath-
cred through the center so that a frill
stands up around the chin and another
lies over the shoulders, with a band of
velvet ribbon over the gathering.
Gold -and- silver embroidery is applied
to frocks of serge and satin and silk.
Metal banding is one of the fashiona-
BILE trimmings for evening frocks. and
Id ill loo IL.
used.
Fortunately. navy blue and dark seal
or tete de negre brown are fashionable
this autumn: of course. so are some
of the lighter, brighter shades. But the
governments experts, who are inter-
ested in the dye situation, are caution
ing womankind. not to pin her faith
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
Great Variety in Skirt Styles.

The fine fabrics of the have been used in skirts
developed styles tngy accompany the exquisite blous
There is no skirt need that cannot meet
Dress Skirts $3.50 to ssse-Latest composed of
Chiffon Broadcloth Serge Gabardine Pop
Inns of them richly trimmed with fur bands Of other
materials; draped and full plated
models.
Tailored Sport Skirts $s7s slzse-These consist of
plain models which generally; each ele
ganty tailored There skirts of pad imported wool veours
tweed fancy woeds poplins New Skating Skirt of Scotch
plaids with the finged bottom is the latest novelty
noer G
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
Street and Afternoon Dresses.
Beautiful Silk Blouses for Fall and Winter

Many New Bouses feature high collar, which prom
this season. pretty dark plain
sian effects distinctly
Mourning Bouses III variety of models showing
touches in fashion and trimming
to each-Crepe de Chine Blouses with long
md convertible COLLARS flesh and white
sszs each.Attractive Bouses pussy willow
silk with long sleeves and collars, either high 1ow
SOS each-Navy Blue Crepe de Chine Blouses
wit and high convertible collars
each-Lovely New Blouses of
with sleeves and dainty vest of chiffon
each-B1oues of chiffon n
black white lining; attractively finished number of
pretily embroidered styles and in several coors
o each-Efectve models of plaid tafeta,
simply trimmed; with sleeves of Georgette
TO in
embroidered colors.
s97s and 5000 each-Very striking these
Paisley chiffon afetamad with the
bodice of chiffon the lower tafea,
chiffon with collar tafea
of chine tafeta
chiffon collars of them Jared
deorgette Crepe Blouses says to $1sss each.
Crepe BIouses, ss7s sS7s each.
Tafeta Blouses, $sas $57s each.
bsr.G
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
The New Memo Corsets for Fall.

We have the pleasure to announce that
ready show patrons the models in Memo
Corsets for the fall-winter
Corse show all the devices which have made them
famous and which much appreciated of
the them They
improvements but the advantage of each has been
clearly proven being and appreciated by
every day.
Some of the devices Supporting and Reducing Abdominal
Straps the Laop Insertions wherever make the
absolutely comfortable while depressing the figure
that will perfectly for the of full figure whether she
is short tall the high or low bust models
The models not quite as heavy those of
previous seasons but still maintain their great wearing
quality and durability
Prices, $500, $500 and $500 pair.
noor Eleventh
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
Candied Nuts.

Boil equal parts Of water and sugar
and boil to the crack. To test, dip in
a clean steel knitting needle. pull 1t
out and If, WREN the strip which clings
to the needle Is cool. 1t cracks. the
strip Is ready. Blanche any kind Of
nut meats by covering with boiling
water and rubbing of the skins. and
dip into the strip. II they are not
thoroughly coated dip again. and a
third time II necessary. Dry on sheets
of waxed paper.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
eaS41r%THE1K4TGf1Ef@23
W&4Af{B~PANTPY.G6&
COOKING RECIPES W02W HyOWzvG

vegetable chopper and make a paste
of them by moistening with little
water and sugar syrup. Melt two
tablespoonfuls of sugar and. when it
Just begins to brown, add water to dis
solve 1t and quart of cream or rich
milk. two cups of sugar and the nut
paste. Mix and freeze.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
Walnut Sandwiches,

Chop walnuts and mix them with a
little grated parmesan--about a third
rs much as walnuts. Spread between
slices Of buttered brown bread.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
Corselet Bodice Aids Large Waist.

When the small waist and normally
placed belt were advanced women with
large waists were filed with anxiety.
How to achieve the effect of slender
waists was a problem beyond them.
Therefore, when the dressmakers re-
Tented and put out what is called the
corselet the tension passed.
Cheruit has always been in favor of
waist line that was not defnftely
marked and was slightly elongated.
The house has kept to this preference
The ev.,ning gown that has arrived mere
and which is sketched today shows how
the large waist can be gracefully COW
cred without sacrificing fashionable
lines. The same idea is worked out by
other designers. especially In afternoon
gowns of velvet and silk.
The skirt of this black frock Is not
in keeping with the extraordinary full
ness the season insists upon; 1t is con-
siderably modified in width. The ma
terials used are black tulle and satin
The overskirt is pointed, for the trick
of lifting drapery at the sides prevails
among all the houses; the hem Is nm
ished off with rows Of briiliants. the
corselet Is of silver lace. cut straight
from chest to below waist. and outlined
at waist with velvet girdle that does
not confine the lace.
The shoulders are negligibly covered,
as is the manner of this house, making
a decolletage that is universally be-
coming The decolletage, one may no
tice, is not exceedingly low in this
bodice, for the cuirassier. or corselst
effect, is taken from the time when the
English manner of a deep decollete was
unknown.
The woman who has made up her
mind that she will not tighten the
strings of her corset this winter and
so make herself uncomfortable. who
will not buy the new pinched-in corset,
can rest happy in the fact that fashion
has created something for her.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
Nut Candy.

Measure three cups of sugar. a cup
each Of vinegar and water and the
juice of a lemon. Stir and boil until
it cracks. Then pour it over a shall
low dish covered with broken nut
meats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

CHERUIT MODEL OF BLACK TULLE
AND SATIN TRIMMED WITH
RHINESTONES, AND A BODICE OF
SILVER LACE.
ever before, because so many of the
houses notably that of Jenny, held
their openings early in the summer and
the frocks were copied in all kinds of
cheaper materials as soon as they ar
rived in this country. The trade, there
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Long. full-basqued coats fitted to the
body portion Of the coat are REVEALS Of
fashions Ia the early forties.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
Hickorynut Ice Cream.

Shell enough hickorynuts to give q
pound OF meats, put them through a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Swift & Company's Sales Of Beef in
Washington, D. c.. for the week ending
Saturday, Oct. 2, 1915. averaged as fol-
lows: Domestic beef, 1882 cents per lb
advertisement
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
NEW YORK. October 1.-The houses
of Cheruit and Callot have held back
their clothes until they are the last
to come from Paris. as is their custom
1t is trick that always works: even
the dressmakers over here approve of
It. as 1t provides them with new fash
ions several weeks after the first au-
tumn installment is shown. That slim
ulates trade.
The two houses have their openings
later in the season than other houses
in Paris, for they dislike to have their
things copied by the hundreds before
the social season has started and. by
that trick, are made so common that
the woman with good price to pay
for an exclusive idea can find nothing
to her liking.
The situation regarding exclusive
ness is more serious this year than
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Hish-pleated neck ruffies Of tulle are
worn by smart women at the theater.
Usually they form a huge tulle butter
fly bow at the back of the neck and
are fastened to the neck Of the theater
wrap.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Small street hats are higher than they
have hsen.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Buttons are being used for trimming
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Metal banding is one of the fashiona-
BILE trimmings for evening frocks, and
spangled tulle and lace are also much
used.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

fore. welcomes the chance to show
something that cannot be bought at
any large shop for thirty-five dollars;
and the late Cheruit and Cabot models
provide this chance for a few weeks.
AS to the excellence and novelty OF
the Cheruit gowns this season. there
is divided opinion. Several buyers
think the old standard is not main
tanned: that the house has again gone
backward, a trick 1t has whenever its
presiding genius takes a leave of alb
sence. as she is doing now. The rea-
son of this prolonged absence. by the
way. has caused crop of rumors,
which are made more emphatic by the
fact that no explanation is given at
the establishment.
II the buyers were told that Nine.
Cheruit was at the hospital line. as
Nine. PaQuin is, then the rumors might
stop: but even that comforting an
nouncement is withheld. There is
heap of trouble in Paris just now
among the various dressmaking houses
anent German or Austrian control. or
special sympathies toward the enemy.
Two we'll known houses. such as Dre-
coll and Bernard. despite their pro-
tests to the contrary. have been dis
missed from the syndicate because OF
alleged control by enemy" money.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Gold-and- silver embroidery is applied
to frocks of serge and satin and silk
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1915-10-04

Ribbon Is more and more used to
trim frocks and blouses as the season
advances. Loops of wide ribbon are
used on some frocks at the sides of
the skirts to form a sort of cascade.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27
Is BUSINESS "A STATE OF MIND?
81 CHARLES ( HENwooO.
s" savings Fund Department Central Trust and Savings

- b"y' rhH@aepha
A., y ms nieresuns Jackson Day address al Indianapolis. President
Mnson said There Is nothing the matter with business. except a state
Of MIND anu that +Ga hard saying"
~ he complete machinery 10 achieve that end. The elemental items
from a hiFb-poweT r1oro- - -, 80. - p az o. cNhLaHon,
ssbtgb ~ ga. 'os al 70 a PcAaAe or TOT a Worth gown % a
pNI II Dl IN, cop Tor larrer business opportunity.
30 "a hours a DAY. helping 20 supply the demand OF the rest OF the
wherewithal TO satisfy his demand Tor the things needrui 10 exs,.pc
j. wi readily Be apparent thar any slowing down OF the collective de
Us results; for on their busyuess depends their ability 10 buy the
But the cause Of the lack OF busyness is clearly seen 70 be- due TO
SoIIi 90 ~ lem sm ~ seems IA the buyers al The way down the line
u oi resolution j. sickled DER with the pale cast 81 thought" De
what will happen six months hence when the bu,iRE demand Of = NJ,
ton holds back through uncertainty and fear Of The future there exists
n state OF mind" that results in widespread disaster.
~ business OF which a civilization is built is really mite a, mr.
uheiai affair II is not absolutely necessary TO the welfare Of our i'm,
Living n a hut at Walden Pond. Our muItfarous needs IRE Scgpirs5i
dreds OF millions Of dollars The To-LJ voulj w. nee yoNh hun
~. G' ~ Is a product OF tremendous energy on the part OF the compare
ser r~ men who pioneered f. BY dnt OF advertising the world ac
U uePI y q regards II a a necessity. Business thrives on the needs OF
Business Is. by and large. Is much a game as base bali We so NOT,
ion a1 U p "a y, osso n "a, there Is a Tremendous lot OF sentiment. recrea.
. meIS n a base bal Is an analogy We all understand. " = can readily
rnpHd the game to reconstruct the rules: H. say. the sherman law len
or the batsman o bai 9agiDa tPirtIr me ne W uGe az rad TO pitch
OF a void It,. o.. m"hn @MuuLk ne ufS during the progress
e,pscT m s, ,rrit to ct we tinker az the business rules Tor laws and
corI ~ IoGrse' ~ Is not necessary 10 play base ball. and also. W 70 arr lot
SigneeIins millions But America wants to do business It lis the ga
the organizers. the leaders that mankind has sixs EnerEg N initiative.
sometime whether It be business IT war n religion. The beayv S 5orI
initiative on the part OF the leaders OF industry. but that hyspteris viii TII
Emerson said institutions arr but the heightened shadows OF great
That man is great who can organize great Industry. ""
beaded business man. as he thinks OF that note with its due date Dom
matte5 with ~ nr o%mS u oIneT: yel IL Is true that there is nothing the
remark IS capn cuthes friend would say. lies in the application
CHARLES F. HENwooD.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27
NO GREATER WHEELING
CHARTER.

IL IL a missioner 20 speak OF the city
manager charter which has been cent
10 Charleston by certain interests as
a Greater Wheeling" charter. II is
not a Greater Wheeling charter in any
Ems IL does not provide for incor-
poration into the City OF Wheeling Of
n one OF the communities adjacent
thereto. nor GOES 1t add a single power
10 h city government to secure such
additions. 70 will be remembered that
n public meeting was held in the
board Of Trade rooms under the guise
of a Greater Wheeling movement.
Early In the meeting A. became ap-
parent that the enlargement OF wheel.
Ing was a minor consideration in the
minds OF the promoters. Having
failed two years ago to foist upon the
citizens Of Wheeling a charter which
they alleged then TO be the cure for
all municipal evils, they sought 10
reach the anne results by another
route, and organized the so-called
Greater Wheeling movement. The
charter which is the result CT that ef.
fort may or may not be entirely com
mendable. Whatever its good features
are. or whatever it's bad features are.
Greater Wheeling has no place in the
charter.
The charter may be defeated. and
the power OF the City OF Wheeling to
Incorporate smaller municipalities will
not be affected in the least. Il can BE-
passed. and the power OF the city to
Incorporate into itself other commu.
Hities will not be- enlarged in the least.
The charter simply provides that in
ease Of a majority vote by the citizens
OF Wheeling, and by any OF the com.
munities adjacent thereto. they may
be Incorporated in one city. a condi.
ton which can obtain az any time.
and TO create which il Is certainly not
necessary to pass a new charter.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27
wORKNIENrS COMPENSATION.

The circular letter issued BY an i'm
portaut manufacture and employer
Of labor IN this section calls attention
TO the action taken BY the Executive
Council Of tho state Board OF Trade
az III recent meeting The Council.
for some reason not altogether ap.
parent. tool upon itself q recommend
that no changes be made in the work
mems compensation law. u D. a well
known fact that the present compen-
sstion law operates unjustly 70 prac-
ticslly every employer OF labor. except
the mine owner. The coal industry. as
the records show. creates about so per
cent Of the casualty charges In the
State. Il pays only about 4S per cent
Of the workmen's compensation fund
In other words. employers Of labor in
less hazardous lines are paying from
about 70 per cent. 10 IS per cent OF
the casualty charge hat properly be
longs 20 the coal industry. The cir.
cular letter referred to says:
We protest against the action o. the
Executive Council as not representing
the wishes OF this states employers OF
labor. other than the coal operators.
who were In control az the meeting and
II their recommendation be successful
81 will be an outrage and very harmful
TO other employers OF labor.
Most OF the owners OF mills. facto-
rics. work shops. wholesale concerns.
and like employers OF labor in the
State are now paying into the work
mems compensation fund a sum from
four to six times greater than tina
paid for casualty insurance. previous
TO the enactment OF the workmen's
compensation act They paid his
willingly for ms year. because they re-
ai!zed the difficulties OF putting new
laws into operation. They will not
cheerfully bear burdens that do not
properly belong to them. and they
justly demand equalization OF work
men compensation rates There is no
eason why the we'll regulated. well
conducted factory or work shop should
ray a casualty charge not incident 10
the industry in which e. is engaged.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27
%GREGORY'S BILL

senator Il l. Gregory has intro
duced a bill seeking 70 check the ac-
uyities OF the fire Insurance compa.
nies OF West Virginia. Senator Greg.
ory would create the Office Of FIRE in.
surance commissioner. separating this
work from the state Auditors depart.
ment. At the present time the State
Auditor appoints a clerk who acts as
commissioner Of insurance. and re.
coiyes a very handsome salary. The
creation OF the new Office proposed BY
Senator Gregory would not increase
public expense. However. the ex-
ponse 81 IN" FIRE insurance department
is a negligible quantity. The essen
tial fact is that the purchasers Of FIRE
insurance in West Virginia are regu-
larry. constantly and systematically
robbed by 2 combination Of compa.
mics who Ak rates arbitrarily. and
who are protected In a monopolistic
business by the favor OF the state OF
West Virginia. n Senator Cregory's
work produces a law that will reach
'Iis condition Of Affairs and correct IL.
he UHl perform a great public serv
Ice
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27
IT Is NOW PITILESS SECRECY

The autocrat OF the White House
has again sought the secret caucus 10
enforce his viii and deprive some Of
h weaker Democratic Senators of
their independence OF thought sec.
ing that the ship purchasing bin was
In danger Of being r~epudiated by a
large number OF Senators Of his own
party. President Wilson again cracked
the party whip and through caucus
action had his own pet measure de.
clared a party measure. Thus ne n.
f~ectually shuts on all opposition to the
bill from the Democratic side Of the
Senate. with a few exceptions. IN the
early days Of the administration the
President grandiloduently proclaimed
the birth Of the New Freedom. declar.
ing that It rested mslsly on "pitless
publicity ~ all matters co~uCsrrire
government affairs. but how soon has
this publicity given way 10 the secret
orders carried out by a secret caucus
70 was used on the House when u
was inclined 10 become obsfrcpcrous
during the last session. which pro.
voked Speaker Clark 20 designate the
~obsequious members who submitted
IN the dictation Of the President NJ
tho rubber stamps of the White
House
There Is no question but % number
Of Democratic Senators who have con
scien'iously opposed the shipping bin.
and were arsins' % on account ~ the
government anticipation in the ship
ping trade end tho danger Of bringirr
This country into grave International
complication. were forced through "a
caucus majority into su]rrsndorIre
their individual eiaws fo the dormst.g
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27

Southern Railway Company The
judges announced from the bench that
attempts had been made to influence
them. first. In favor OF a certain candi.
date. and. his candidacy falling. 10 pre-.
mi the selection Of another The
public prosecutor offered 10 take the
matter before me grand jury. but the
judges stoutly refused to reveal the
name Of the man or men guilty Of the
attempt Tor this purpose
II Is presumed that the judges are
within their rights to refuse informa.
tion In this matter. but it looks a little
queer TO the layman that no action
taken boz so grave an onense 70
seems 10 be- nothing more than shield.
ing criminals from merItrd punish.
meut n 20 had been the ease NJ a
juror who had been approached b. o.
Driber. and no had Informed the court
~ such action. there is mo- question
about The matter being allowed f1
drop The approach ~ frr .0urr rv
such a method as has been wsrH1n..
Ia 10 anything. a ravor oTr1ao against
public morals. n not law than tho Hr..
berry m a iurymar. and DO locke 1. 70
some high.up citizens of Cincinnati.
deserving ~ punishment. Hrr. being
allowed 10 escape their fuaf desert.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27
MIR WELLS ORIElT-

Mr. Wcn's 'r'or.. fine .fafemrr,
that ho sought only fH Undue. ..a TaH
Dc Service Commission. r fu f.r .Ua
truth is ingenious. ha. ra. H.r.I..
lsrly ~rougIur.u. TH. l#a...m.H.
moreover % al agent Who rH been
notorious 'r connection with chad.
frarsac"0ns and tra ready prom
r' large sums NJ or .fs r1u.
r' .ends f. .as . Hsf. o.. ..aa
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27

attitude q The President Perhsys u
L. last a. well mat b. hss been made
a strictly partisan measure This wLl
throw The whole responsibility on the
democracy Tor IT. passage. which
seems altogether nksiy nov Il q.
proposed % push the shipping BAL
Without confederation o. ans % the
appropriation bills. until IL D. out o.
the way. With the Republicans In
good hghting trim 70 talk for some
time on the bnl. n looks a. u The pre-
diction o. an extra session VII be YER.
hed
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1915-01-27

UNCLE WALL: Ripping Rhymes.


For all your worry and your weeping. for al your pain and voc.
Just Try some good oId-iashioned scc0iuR.thc finest cure know
- Al yes, you sav. such talk s. cas-. we'll men NAV hand
9LbmbIk 90 out. but when with asthma ono De- vhcczv or when he
has the govt or when black care with him s drilling all
sleepie', arc ms eyes. he cannot slumhc- for "a shilling no matter how,
ne tries 80 speaks the tmd human rabbit. filed with f0rch0dinpe
dire yet SLEEP, like kicking Is q rabbit that sick folks NAV acquire
When am sick travel hedgard. and lock my chamber doc. and saw
50 help me Albert Edward Il sleep or bust a snore" count soma
sheep imaginary eavortng oera sulc. such animals are flip and merry.
and Always make me smile, watch those muttOns sOicd and frovsv
their long procession keep and pretty soon I'm feeling drgus, 90
then ] an ssleep Al first counted seven billion before gof -.rg.-
but nov, when ] reach hair a million nearly always jozs You watch
your ewes and lambsIns mounting he srle q deIuge deer. YOU kee,
on counting counting counting until YOU faI asleep
WALT MASON
CcODyrEh. 1919 by George Matthew ,ssno