Evening star., 1915-07-25

tulles are used in one OF the most pop
ular evening frocks of the supmer. ana
it's twisted and graceful loopfngs sug-
gest crinolines. No sooner did the wise
ones think this or utter this fact than
horsehair made it's appearance. not AT
the hem. but at the hips. pannierlike.
Factories are already turning out a
new kind of haircloth that will support
the flimsy materials used for afternoon
and evening gowns. and not give itself
away. 1t is already common to see the
ultra-smart women dancing IN 1rocKs
that are balancing sidewise from the
middle of the body. Upon investigation
it would be found that wide bands Of
invisible crinoline were inserted at each
hip to give the extension and that
swaying motion.
One of the pleasant theories. or specu-
lations. Of the moment Is how far Italy
will influence the fashions OF the
winter.
Lewis. the we'll known milliner in
Paris is sending everywhere an Italian
hat taken from the one worn by the
infantry troops in Italy. The hat goes
by the name Of Bersaglieri and is
jaunty affair worn far to one side.
owing it's brilliancy to the thick crown
of green coque feathers that sweep over
one side and brush the cheek. Quite a
dashing hat, this, to introduce In
Victorian season and not especially
suited to the flchu, the sash. the tight
basque and the ruffied skirt. But the
will incorporate it into her scheme Of
things and carry it off with an air:
A fashion writer who was IN Paris
the day the boulevards hailed with
of Italy's flag in token of her changing
the triple entente to the quadruple en-
tente, exclaimed at once that the vivid
green in the flag would be instantly
seized upon by fashion for its service.
Quite true. Lewis put 1t into his hats
at once and it will give rise. no doubt,
to an epidemic Of Italian fashions.
There are many of them to choose.
Coral jewelry. Venetian laces. Naples
ribbon. black velvet laced basques,
striped skirts in woolen materials SINH
lar to the ones we now wear in cotton.
bead embroidery. ecclesiastical styles in
embroidery, gold on velvet and
wealth of detail from early Italian art.
Early in the season there were know
ing buyers for important houses who
went to Genoa and Milan for velvets.
silks. ribbone and all the other lovely
fabrics that Italy has to offer. AS her
mills have not been stopped through the
year, as have those of the other fabric
producing countries, there is a har-
vest to be reaped there for the importer.
What next are we to expect from
sleeves? They have gone OF on q wild
merry-go-round of changes. To look
over the heterogeneous collection
shown in the shops and carried on the
arms of women. one would come to the
conclusion that a prize had been Of
fered for the best one and the result
was on display.
The majority of them are large. and
there is no doubt that they are going
to be larger. If the Henry of Navarro
sleeve succeeds it will throw all the
rest of the costume into the shade.
The Elizabethan sleeve 10 like unto 1t.
with its many puffs held down by
bracelets Of bullion lace, a sleeve which
is immensely fetching in tulle and chif-
fon in a dinner frock.
The common garden variety Of sleeve
that has been widely accepted this
summer with little protest is what
we once called the bishop. extending
from shoulder to wrist without break.
gathered in at top and bottom. In
keeping with certain flavor Of Vic