The Irish standard. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn. ;) 1886-1920, 1915-07-03

enriched with tinsel and woven with
the pomegranite design. This was a
favorite design in the Sixteenth CEN
fury and was very prominent in the
pageants on the occasion of the mar
riage of Arthur, prince of Wales, and
Katharine of Aragon, and when the d.
vorce of Henry VIII. and Katharine
came to be agitated, the badge became
a party one.
chasubIe Derived from Cloak.
The chasuble, like kindred vestments
used in the church, was derived from
the Roman cloak, worn by all classes
in the Graeco-Roman world. It was
worn by the clergy as liturgical gar
ment, but it was not until the Elev-
enth century, when the cope had been
established as a liturgical vestment,
that the chasuble began to be reserved
as special to the Sacrifice of the Mass.
The chasuble was originally a tent
like robe which fell in loose folds be-
low the knee. Its obvious inconveni-
ence for celebrating the holy mys-
teries, however, caused its gradual
modification. The object of the change
was primarily to leave the hands of
the celebrant free for the careful per-
Torrance of the manual acts, and to
this end a process of cutting away at
the side of the vestment began until
the tent-shaped chasuble of the Twelfth
century had developed into the simple
vestment with its straight lines of the
present day. Until the Tenth century
the chasuble was quite plain and then
the custom of decorating with or.
phreys, that is, gold or rich-embroider.
ed ornaments representing sacred
scenes, became common. Sometimes
only the vertical orphrey is seen and
sometimes vertical and horizontal
making the cross. The cross is always
used now on the chasuble and this
vestment is used exclusively in the
Sacrifice of the Mass and by the cele
brant. The cope has changed little in
its centuries of use, although the
shield-shaped hood is more commonly
now smaller cape around the shout
ders, usually richly embroidered. The
cope is used at Benediction of the
Blessed Sacrament, at the asperges in
the mass, and is worn at funerals and
in professions.
The two pieces in this collection are
marvellous examples of embroidery
the orphreys are especially fine and
are the work of the famous men who
did embroidery in Toledo in the Fiji
teenth century. They are among the
finest textiles in the world and by fa1
the finest in any private collection in
this country. On the chasuble have
been embroidered three scenes won
derfully impressive and full of feeling
and yet eminently decorative. THE
Betrayal of Judas" in which the crue
faces of the soldiers, Peter striking
one of them with his sword, and the
calm, unresisting figure of the Saviour
are clearly depicted; Christ Praying
in the Garden" in which beautiful
golden robe falls in graceful folds
about Him, near Him the apostles ar,
sleeping, and in the distance the rab
BILE is seen approaching; "The Cruel
fixion," with the two Marys at the foo
Of the cross, and two angels f1oatin,
above it. Lovely little landscapes maxi
backgrounds in the three scenes. Thu
cope is heavily and beautifully EN-
broidered with the pomegranite desig1
and with orphreys of scenes in the lif
of Mary which might be the Five Joy
full Mysteries. On the hood of the cop
is an impressive scene of God tn
Father holding the crucified Christ a
if to the gaze of mankind. Here i
shown the metal work which make
the embroidery so sumrtuous. Abov
the cope which hangs between tn
doors is a gold strip enriched with 81
yer of Seventeenth century SPANS
work which was part of an altar fro1
tai used in the private chapel of tn
deposed King of Portugal. The pa
tern is a scroll with fruit and the co
ors are lovely.
Cope of PenitentiaI Violet.
Another wonderful piece is the bea,
tiful cope of penitential violet o
which the worn surfaces only add t
the beauty because of the manner /
which the light shades across it. Abov
it is an example of Petit-Point Of til
Sixteenth century, a fine example {
English work, showing scenes from til
life of Christ. Among the most go
geous of the textiles is the dalmat
of salmon-colored ground with silvt
embroidery. Although it is Eighteent
century work. II ia in a fine state