davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09

DECAUSE of their beauty, these
X materials are treated with moder-
- alton. A great deal Of lace is
being used and velvet OF the softest
and most supple sort is much liked
and there are new satins that are fas-
cinating in quality and in richness as
well as in color, while there is very
notable tendency also toward metallic
and brocaded effects and other fabrics
of sort that always must be made
in simple ways to give their best effect.
Fashions, too, are generous in the
matter of the waist line, for we may
wear that the little basque that gives
the suggestion of being drawn.in at
the waist-line even though it is not
and we may wear the Empire gown
or may wear the gown on straight
lines and be equally correct. The
illustration on this page gives some
excellent examples of the new features.
The Empire gown is grace itself and
shows Just that curious combination
of the old with the new that is always
interesting, for the bodice is really
Empire while the skirt flares freely at
the lower edge and we all know that
the Empire costumes all we're narrow.
The combination of materials is an
effective one; Salome satin is trimmed
with velvet, while simple embroidered
silk net is used for the bodice. 1t is
oontinually being said that the tunlc
is passing, but there is really no evil
tence of that fact. The few costumes
that have arrived from Paris include
come tunic skirts; the best dress
makers are showing them and they
ere excellent for they are full and
faring and they give graceful lines.
A With these two gowns too are worn
Eening wraps that make good ex-
APPLES of the latest and the best.
The cape is always satisfactory to
wear over a handsome costume and
ibis one is almost classic in its lines
and folds, while the ribbons that are
attached to the neck edge pass around
the figure and hold it comfortably in
lace. The loose kimono coat is never
10 he displaced for it means comfort
end elegance combined. This one is
made of soft satin with rut1ies of the
same and it is eminently simple in
style and in treatment and also it is
tninently elegant. Some variation
,f tie hounced skirt is to be met wher-
,ver evening costumes are worn. The
,ne shown here consists of circular
ounces over plain foundation, and
is accompanied by one Of the prettlest
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09
SUCH WONDERFUL MATERIALS AS
WE ARE HAVING THIS SEASON CAN
NOT FAIL TO BE BEAUTIFUL

fancy basques. The material is a
metallic brocade which is softened by
drapery of net and the sleeves are Of
the same becoming material. The sin
gle velvet rose gives a note that is
all-important. for almost every up-to-
date dressmaker manages to create a
focus for each costume and this rose
serves its purpose admirably well.
The gown at the extreme left shows
a very clever use of lace founcing with
one of the new chiffon taffetas that are
so soft and lustrous that they make
every gown beautiful and they drape
on ideally beautiful lines. 1t is very
simple gown, yet an extremely effective
one and is admirably adapted to the
dances which are constantly creating
the demand for new costumes. All the
skirts are shown short, for while trains
are worn by the mature contingent
for dinner and to the opera and occa-
sions of the sort, the dance has become
so general that the short skirt has the
greater vogue, and just now ankle
length is the accepted one. As matter
of course, hosiery and shoes are all
important and they must match or
harmonic with the costume to pro-
duce a good effect. With the metallic
brocades, shoes of gold cloth are worn
with pale yellow silk stockings and the
effect is most attractive one.
CCHOOL and college girls will be
sure to be interested in these
~ two dresses. They are very
simple and youthful in effect and at
the same time, are smart and attract
i've and can be worn for afternoon
dances and for a great many other
occasions. The frock that is made of
bordered material is especially adapted
to such for the reason that the skirt
and the blouse both are cut with
straight edges and here the material
is one of the new embroidered cotton
voiles but as matter of course, if a
plain material is used. the edges can
be hemmed or trimmed in any manner
preferred. The skirt is straigh t with
three wide tucks and the bodice con-
sists of only two pieces arranged over
Chemisette.
The second costume gives the apron
effect that is so much liked just now
and is made of one of the pretty flow
cred chiffons over skirt of the same
material in a plain color. The skirt is
accordion plated and the apron
drapery is very charming over it.
The little bodice is just prettily low
and consequently is appropriate both
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09

for the afternoon and for the evening.
In the back view, the same frock Is
shown made of bordered crepe with a
gathered skirt and with high neck and
long sleeves, a change which really
transforms the effect, yet the frock IS
the same one, and the differences IN
treatment really are slight. It is not
too early to be, thinking OF summer
dresses and this model would be
charming made up in any one OF the
cotton stuffs of which there are legion;
organdie made as in the back view
would make very dainty dress ana
one that would represent very little
labor and cotton crepe could be used
for the effect shown in the front view.
~IRLS are always in need OF
I dancing frocks and in the illus
~ tration are shown three OF the
most charming possible. They are
simple, as girls dresses should 6e'
but they include nevertheless, the
newest features and are both smart
and graceful. The tunic frock is
made in real Empire style with
plain little over-bodice that is edged
with a very becoming and dainty
frill. The tunic is perfectly straight
and gathered over a two-piece skirt,
consequently all the bordered ma
terials, and there are many, can Be
used with success. The costume made
of founcing is good one for lace and
for the embroidery that is being shown
for the summer frocks, for the bordered
voiles, bordered crepes and all the
pretty materials of the sort. Shes
louncing and bordered materials make
their own finish, they greatly reduce
the labor of dressmaking, and no girl
could ask for prettier frock than this
one, it seems to have every condition
to commend it. Here the materla! -
embroidered cotton crepe, but shadow
lace would make somewhat daintier
dress, which, if something simpler tor
summer afternoon is wanted, one OF the
pretty bordered organdies could bs
treated in just the same way.
The third gown shows changeable
chiffon taffeta that gives q real
opalescent effect and it is wonderfully
beautiful and in addition gives evil
dence of the wearer's skill for no less
than twenty colors were employed to
produce the desired result. 1t Is made
very simply with only rosebud banding
as trimming for the color effect is 50
wonderful that trimming would only
be an injury. The sleeves are OF chiffon
with picot edging and the girdle Is OF
the silk. All the pretty materials that
can be made full successfully are APP
propriate, and Just now those hose t tnas
are not necessarily so soft as they used
for there is tendency toward the dis
tended skirt and a little stiffness. is
a help while often tucking and cordlng
and various other trimmings are EN-.
ployed to help along in the effect OF
width. In this instance, the rosebud
banding is arranged over a little wire
that seems quite sufficient.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09

the exploitation Of strange, extreme
and bizarre colors for which Fashion
has been remarkable for the past few
seasons
Flaring effects are unquestlonably
smart for the skirts and that is true
Whether the skirts are designed tor
street wear or for the dance. Circular
shapings are as result much in de-
nand and undoubtedly Aounces will
have their place, but at the moment,
extremely fascinating effects are OBJ
tanned by soft finished taffeta silks and
the like with cords inserted in little
tucks or with ruffles finished with
corded edges and in similar ways that
serve to enhance and accentuate the
fare while it also serves to give a
picturesque note. However they may
develop, however many other fea-
lures may appear, it is an accepted
fact that we are to have old-fashioned
effects, and every woman recognizes
what that means whether that ex-
preston is applied to the portrait OF
an ancestor or is used to describe her
latest gown. A charming gown that
has just been completed and that will
find it's way to the sunny South, is
made of really wonderful chiffon
taffeta manufactured here on Ameri-
can soil in lovely shade that is known
as Delaware peach. The skirt is a
perfectly straight one, generous but
not exaggeratedly wide. 1t is finished
with wide hem and over the hips, it
is laid in group of five little tucks
set at narrow intervals apart and in
each of these tucks is a cord. A
dancing frock is made of the same silk
with trimming of ruffles, three above
the hem and two at knee depth and
each of these ruff1es is finished with
a corded edge and unquestionably
every device of the sort will be en-
ployed. A most fascinating little cos
tune for the opera or for the dance
consists of a moderately wide skirt
ruffled from hem to waist line with
white tulle and worn with "a little
closet fitting bodice Of pale blue satin
that forms four big scallops at. the top
and terminates lust under the arms
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09

terms, and if once our manufactures
would extablish reputation for care
and for perfection, buyers will surely
be ready to take advantage of the
fact. The silks and the poplins that
are being displayed just now with
the American label in big letters; or
emphasized in one way or another,
are doing good work in the way OF ex-
ploitation, but until manufacturers
are ready to sacrifice big gains tor
permanent values, there will not be as
large an output of perfect manufac-
utres as can be obtained under condl-
tons that exist abroad. At the mo-
ment am told, the French manufac-
turers are making beautiful fabrics
but they are weaving them to order.
not piling up quantities to. sell on
chance and it requires no wizard to
understand that there will be many
conditions to interfere with the usual
output. Unquestionably it is the OPP
portunity Of the home manufacturer,
and what we need in that pride in
work we'll done and not merely the
demand for the work that will bring
immediate big reward, for often the
latter is short-lived while the former
builds for strength and for genera
tons.
In spite of all drawbacks, in spite
of all conditions, French models are
arriving and French fabrics are under
discussion. Monsieur Rodier has put
Fac
novelties. He is to give us gabardlne
of combined silk and linen and it IS
more durable than all-silk and quite
as beautiful and we are to have
great many French sheer than fabrics
showing stripes or designs in heavier
raised thread, and also an exceedingly
fine wolfe showing a fine stripe OF
velours and it will be remembered that
Just that effect was mentioned few
weeks ago as being found in the Amer
lean output. By what means it comes
about it would be difficult to assert,
but in some subtle way or another, a
general idea is apt to prevail in the
designing world, and this combination
of heavy stripe upon thin ma
terial evidently has captured the
imagination of two continents. Colors
seem to include variety of blue shades
and the beige, sands and light grays
are largely featured by all merchants
and designers, but what are known
as the silent or subdued colors are ex-
pected to be the prevailing colors of the
season. That they will be frightened
by bits of coral and other brilliant
red shades unquestionably is true. but
the prevailing effect will be one OF
Quietude that must be rest after all
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09
HINTS for the HOME NEEDLE WOMEN

the center and lighter at the points;
or, cut skein of thread and apply
two or more strands over the center
of the stamped pattern, keeping within
the lines, tack here and there in couch
ing style, gathering the threads closely
at each point of the scallops; then but
ton-hole closely over the foundation.
Make solid embroidery by first darning
backward and forward over the
stamped figure and then cover closely
with over and over stitches, working
in the opposite direction from the
padding. To outline, take short
stitches, keep the needle toward the
right and work upward. To make the
dots, flowers, and leaves as eyelets,
first run a thread round the stamped
figure, then cut slight slit lengthwise,
and then crosswise of the long openings
and pierce the dots with a stiletto,
push back the material on the wrong
side and work clnsalu over and over.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09

THE scalloped edges are to be
padded and button-holed. The
L dots, flowers and leaves can be
worked either solidly or as eyelets.
The stems are to be outlined.
To pad the scallops, work chain
stitch between the lines. heavier at
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09

the exploitation of strange, extreme
and bizarre colors for which Fashion
has been remarkable for the past few
seasons.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1915-03-09

ONCE f'0"nes
and bordered
materials make
their own finish
they greatly reduce
the labor of dress
making and no girl
could ask for a
prettier frock than
one of these. They
seem to have every
condition to COM
mend them.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1915-11-08

thirty OF these teams who are sure TO
enter.
william r. Weber. who II chairman Of
the local entry committee. is well pleased
with the situation and IL positive that
the planned local entry OF seventy-five
teams will be reached. He IL being as
sisted by Dick Grotte. l.. NJ. Holiday,
c. e. Terrell and George Zimmerman.
The present large entry list is due 20
the keen interest being taken by the
Omaha businessmen in the big sporting
event. Many who have not been identl-
fled with the game In the past have come
TO the front and have entered teams 10
represent their firms
This seasons tournament will have n
special feature which former tournaments
have not had The local tournament com
mittee has arranged a place on the sched-
ule for the women. Six teams OF feminine
bowlers will occupy the runway one night
during the progress OF the tournament
and roll the team event only. Arrange
ments have been made so that their part
in the tournament will be entirely sepa-
rate from the events rolled by the men.
BY so doing they will not have to com
pete against the men. but will divide the
entry fee has been made $40 team. The
Hayden Bros. Brandeis stores, A. h.
Sweet Shop and Omaha Towel Supply
teams have already entered. Two others,
probably from the Carter Lake club. will
enter to fiji the squad.
A general mass meeting Of all Omaha
bowlers will be held at the Paxton hotel
this morning at 10 o'clock. The meeting
is held for the purpose OF aoquainting the
mass of bowlers with what has been ac-
compllshed by the tournament company
and to urge all captains and officers of
leagues to get busy and assist In the
local entry campaign.
Below Is a complete list OF the teams
who have sent In cash entries, both local
md outside, and a list of outside cities
and the number OF teams which have
asked for reservations:
Brandeis Stores.
Corey a Mckenzie Printing Co.
Rees Printing Co.
FarnRm Alleys.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1915-11-08
MANY ENTRIES In
FOR THE MIDWEST
Eleven Strong Outside Teams Send
in Cash Entries and Thirty Local
Crews Pay Their Fees.
CHICAGO WILL COME IN FORCE

Entries and requests for dates IN the
ing i'm every day TO Carl Cain. local
tournament secretary. and Victor b, Par
IRISH OF the publicity bureau of the omaha
Commercial club, who Is conducting the
advertising campaign, Is being swamped
with inquiries and requests for hotel ac-
commodations. Already eleven OF the
strongest tournament teams In the coun-
try have sent In their entries. and reser-
vations have been made by sixty others.
Every city OF Importance has now been
heard from and all viii be represented
with large delegations.
Up until yesterday the Chicago bowl
ers had not been heard from, but let
ter from Billy Lee. bowling manager of
the Brunswick-Balke-C ollender company
states that the Windy City Is sure of
entering six teams. and that this figure
will probably be increased to eight or
ten. With his letter came tho entry OF
the famous Minerallte team, which has
been heavy prize winners In all national.
international and middlewest tourna-
ments.
The local entry. too. Is heavy, twenty
nine cash entries have already been
made, and most of these are teams en-
tered by firms who have not been iden-
titled with the ten-pin game. The cap
teams are still conforming with their
ancient custom OF waiting until the last
minute before entering. There are about
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1915-11-08
SHARPSH00TER PEELS OFF
EIGHT IN OBSERVATION POST

correspondence OF the Associated Press }
VIENNA, Nov. 5-A remarkable feat
OF Workmanship is reported from the
southwestern front, where many of the
famous Tyrolese riflemen are fighting
against the Italians. A troop Of the So
called Kaiser Light infantry. which was
fighting on the Doberedo plateau. got
into most precarious position in advance
OF the Austrian lines. They could not
retreat as the ground over which they
would have 70 run was fully covered by
the italian guns. They held their ground
FOR several days. while suffering greatly
for lack OF food and water.
The italian artillery was playing upon
them with accuracy, being directed by
means OF q post OF observers on higher
ground than that held by the Tyrolese.
II was regarded as necessary TO get rid
OF that post, which consisted OF eight
Alpini' and a soldier who had made a
reputation for himself In the Oetzthal az
highly expert poacher volunteered 70
undertake the difficult task. Climbing
steaithiiy by night, as II hunting channels
ne reached hiding place in easy shot
or the post. and when the eight Italian,
began to stir the next morning he quickl,
picked them off, one after the other.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1915-11-08
Belgians in the
Hospitals and Prisons
In Need Of Books

Correspondence Of the Associated Press.)
NEW YORK. Nov. 1.--Among the thou
sands of Belgian soldiers now in hos
pitais in England and in France, detained
in camps in Holland and prisoners In Ger
many, there is a widespread need of good
books. and a committee that has been
formed to enlist American aid in the
matter announces that books or money
for their purchase will be received by
Pierre Mali, Belgian consul general In
New York. The members OF the honor
airy committee include Emmanuel Have
NTH, the Belgian minister at Washing
ton; Joseph H. Choate, Charles ]. Bona
parte, Rev. ]. F. Stillemans of the Bel
gian Relief fund and Louis de sadelier.
minister OF state for Belgium, who IL in
New York. A statement given out by the
committee reads:
Tho heroism of the Belgian soldiers
has won universal admiration. Thou
sands OF them are now in hospitals in
England and in France, detained in
camps in Holland and prisoners In Ger
many. Suffering and deprived OF liberty,
without news from their relatives now
somewhere in poverty or dead. the anx-
iety OF those brave men must be painful.
Well educated as they are and without
recreations any intelligent person is look
ing for, nothing can do more to alleviate
their sufferings than literature in their
own language.
There is a real need among those Bel.
CLAN soldiers for books in French and
Flemish. and to a certain extent in Eng
fish, especially works of travel and
novels. history, books on electricity, me-
chanics. motoring, etc, and illustrated
magazines OF all kinds. also grammars
for the study of English. French-English
! dictionaries and vice versa"
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1915-11-08
Woman Will Defend
Her Cattle with Guns

CHICAGO, Nov. 7.-Mrs Scott Durand.
wealthy owner of a prize dairy herd, to-
day threatened to shoot any state off
Gals who came to her farm to harm any
of her cattle. She recently saved the cat
tie from slaughter when suspected of foot
and mouth disease by an injunction.
Mrs. Durand today armed her employees.
Il will shoot the first. person who at
tempts to harm any OF my cattle" she
said. II have a revolver OF my own and
1 intend to use 1t. 1 have been informed
that the state inspectors intend to invade
my farm. WAen they arrive. they will
find me prepared"
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1915-11-08
JAYHAWKER STOCK
TAKES BIG BOOST
Decisive Defeat of Washburn Proves
Cornhuskers Will Find Stiff
Opposition in Kansas.
NEBRASKA SUBS SHOW UP WELL

That Coach Stiehm's Cornhuskers will
encounter some mighty tough opposition
when they attempt to down the Jayhawk
on McCook field at Lawrence Saturday
is the silent testimonial of the Kansas
Washburn game last Saturday. Kansas
trounced the Topeka school, Al to 0, and
tbs said the trick was turned with many
substitutes in the game.
That overwhelming score proves that
Kansas has a team regardless OF the bear
stories which have now and then emerged
from Lawrence. Nebraska, It is true, de-
feated Washburn as decisively, the score
being A to o, but the big Kansas score
does prove that the Huskers should not
be particular favorites over the Jayhawk,
especially as Kansas is laying for Ne
braska and can be depended upon to put
up the fight Of the year
Nebraskas victory over Wesleyan was
expected. With Rutherford, Reese and
Gardiner out of the game, Proctor, Seller
and Porter went in to show that Stiehm
has some dependable substitutes who can
take the places of his regulars In case
of injuries. Galley and Chamberlain were
in the game but a short time and Shaw
was not used at all. Ali together twelve
subs went into the game, and, as Wes-
leyan has a really good team this year,
Nebraska followers are pleased with the
score of 30 to o.
Honor of West Upheld. =
Notre Dame very successfully upheld
the honor of the west Saturday by its de-
feat of the Army. while Michigan was
being worsted by Cornell. 1t was, of
course, expected that Yost's men would
be given a trimming, as the Wolverines
this year are the worst in the history Of
the school. Other western games came
out according to the dope.
Cornell and Pittsburgh are left to fight
it out for the eastern championship. Both
Princeton and Washington and Jefferson
were removed from the running Satur-
day. Harvard upset the dope by trim
ming the Tigers, who were favorites and
Pittsburgh put an end to all Washington
and jefferson hopes. AS Cornell and
Pittsburgh do not meet, and probably will
not lose another game this year. these
two schools will be in a deadlock for the
eastern honors.
Pitt Looks Strongest.
The honor will probably be given to
Cornell. as Pittsburgh is one of those
smaller schools of the east not supposed
to beat the big colleges and will promptly
be slandered concerning the eligibility of
its players and the methods 1t uses so
that the championship can be given to
the Ithaca school There is, however. a
we'll defined suspicion in this part of the
country that Pittsburgh would give Cor
nell quite a neat licking II the two teams
should lock horns.
Yales defeat at the hands OF Brown
was expected. The closeness of the score
indicates that the Blue is recovering I'M
der Shevlins treatment and will prob
ably put up a game battle against Prince
ton this week.