Evening star., 1915-03-14
E1HE spring openings in Paris are
over. Argument for and against

them has been rife for three
x months. experts saying they
Fould not occur, experts saying they
would come off on schedule time.
The majority Of Americans who did
not want to believe that these openings
would occur sold thousands of early
spring models to thousands of women
who really think that the Rue de la
Paix and all the other streets that It's
name embraces to the layman. are
dead.
Then came the excitement concerning
the edict of February Is by the Ger
mane declaring the waters around the
British Isles as a new war zone, ana
again layman and commercialist said
that new gowns from Paris were i'm
possible, that even if they had been
created they could not be gotten over
here.
Rumor referred to the estabii
snent of crinoline models as substitutes
for fabric ones. Comment gave the
opinion that France, sartor1ally, was
dead. Long live American fashions!
No wonder that the world Wnich
clothes and all that appertains there
unto was excited, for it alone knew
that Paris would still be Paris no mat
ter how often the American woman
1t was dead.
And back are the buyers, and back
with them are hundreds Of new frocks'
wraps and hats. with still more num-
except that of Paul Poiret. had its
opening as in other and happier days.
Poiret is at Liseux doing soldier duty;
The only house that seemed difhcult
at first was Callots, who would not
give promise of a speedy shipment
saying that the 9th of the month was
the date on which she would send over
frocks direct to America. AS the mari
time blockade was already establish
ed, the buyer left the room on the
opening day unwilling to buy. Later.
she changed her date week Garner,
but as it is, the gowns from tha1 nousS
will arrive after the others. many OF
which were shipped by the buyers be-
fore they left.
STYLES Varied and Not Much Changed
skirts are full, coats are long. three
quarter and short. Every figure Is
suited. Narrow petticoat skirts are
placed beneath wide upper skirt, which
barely escapes covering II Bunchins
and futile draping are banished Ev-
erything is marked by simplicity. COL
ors are toned down.
Normal and empire waist lines are are
established, although some OF the .ne
girdle, which was refused by the wiser
buyers. Gowns copied from pictures are
shown instead of those taken from
the women at the races. Freak1shness
Is barred, and beauty Is sought ana
the result is excessively pleasing. There
are many buyers who are not content
with this feature and are ALREADY seek
ing to impart an air OF eccentr1clty 20
suits and frocks, on the mental basis
that the American woman will not
buy sober clothes. She must be start
ing. That Is truer Of the women VINO
ouy often and cheaply than OF those
who buy infreQuently and well. Always
me place for eccentricity Is in the low
priced garments
Brocades are used, also gabardine and
thin serge with fine twill, faille ana
some figured and stamped with metal
threads.
callot Gowns Changed by Americans
Tho house of Callot insisted upon
narrow skirts again, measuring only
little over a yard, and the American
buyers refused them, finally Offering to
ouy II the width was changed. 1t Is
now the story of the designing world
n Paris that the haughtiest house In
Europe consented to this jurisdiction by
Americans. Times are changed. Money
Is needed. And for the coin. CaHot
Il?
cheruit led the way toward utmost
simplicity in line and colortng. she
moderated the fullness Of her last sea-
son skirts. and showed them entirely
dat in front and back with ripples at
the side. Nothing she exhibited was
theatrical. She chose corbeau blue, the
aew gray blue of the French soldiers
Uniform, which is a copy of our West
Point gray. and which our shops have
,Iready exhibited as Gettysburg gray.
Mauve is another half-mourning tone
,he uses. All her skirts are extra
,hort, the mannequins wearing high
boots with street and afternoon cos
.umes. also high satin boots with even
ng frocks. fashion which is making
IS appearance here. Often the boot is
aced at the side, instead of buttoned
Both Georgette and Jeanne Lanvin
show styles that are decidedly youth
'ul and wearable. They use moderately
snort jackets with high waist line.
aot exaggerated. Skirts are very short
md khaki. dull red, blue soldat and
oeige are their colors. Gaorgette uses