The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1915-05-16

the top is quite In the period picture,
as Is the nat collar.
A cool, pretty frock Of cream taheta,
cross barred In fine lines OF bright
yellow had this inverted v vest OF
sheer white organdy, a wide nat.
round collar Of organdy and wide 'ar-
ings bands Of organdy at the bottom
Of the short bell sleeves. The skirt
was extremely wide and untrimmed,
hut showed a narrow frill of white
organdy on a comparatively narrow
underskirt below the spreading nare
of silk.
We shall see more Of the nat collars
as the summer on. They are In
the picture, as has been said before.
and they are far easier to keep fresh
and interrupted than any Of the high
all around OF high back and low front
collars. though those high back col
lars are far kinder to the woman who
hasn't a pretty neck.
They harmonic well with the
simple sort Of frock IN attractive ma
terisl which IL particularly liked for
some purposes this season. and there
Is something tremendously effective
about such an u~npretentious model as
that illustrated In one Of our small
Sketches crepe de chine of beau-
tiful quality and exquisite rose color.
which has no trimmings ave tucks.
a fiat collar Of sheerest white organdy
narrowly hemmed. and a soft. narrow
girdle Of deep rose satin. The skirt Is
full enough and flares enough for
m~odishness. and the frock attains a
cachet that many more %pretentious
ones fail to achieve.
! The crepes have to a considerable
' extent given way to %taffeta. yet they
are used for some of the most at
tractive frocks. especially those Of the
less extreme sort. the softness OF the
crepes allowing width without the
great flare tc which taffeta tends.
OF course this matter Of flare de-
Ponds greatly upon cut and handling,
and even t~afeta. despite the crispness
that turks in the softest Of It. can
be subdued to moderate lines II the
designer In determined to curb its
audacious spirit.
The TACT remains. however. that the
taffeta frock tanned Is usually the
taffeta frock spoiled.
That Is the reason taffeta has for
many seasons past knocked ~futilely
at fashions door. The modes were
not adapted to II. Cut "a narrow
lines. constrained to lie smoothly or
drape Imply. it lost heart and beauty
as well.
But this year came taffeta's oppor-
tunity. When skirts began to spread
and swirl. when little self-pipings and
cordings and ruchings and plaitings
began to be in demand. when crisp
and f1aring audacity replaced cling ne
and flowing audacity. there was on,
silk above all other silks lad ths
qualities needed and taffeta once more
came into its own, There are Other
lovely silks. but taffeta is tho silk o,
the season. and everything from dance
frocks to travelling frocks is made oi
il.
1t in a wonderful range o'
colors and II especially attractive In
some Of the cool. summary shades tina
are admirably relieved by touches o.
white, soft pinks and rose tones will
s!lvery lights. a delicious green tina
sets ones thoughts turning towar,
June peas because II echoes thei'
) clear yet soft coloring. iavende'
flushed by hydrangea blues, ciel blues
Natter blues. creamy grays. Ugh
|, orchid and lilac tones. yeilows. lot TO-
warm. pale gold, buff. deep ivory
maize.
Any one Of these made In chic hu
simple fashion and relieved by som
picturesque collar Of organdy. batists
; net or lace is an ideal frock for a sum
I mer afternoon, and the places wher
. smart folk gather should he more tina
: ordinarily interesting this summer I
a lover Of pretty clothes.
, Less cool looking but quite as mod
, ish ara taffetas in more violent shade.
mustard and sulphur and emerald an
cerise. When IL comes to dark blu
taffeta and to black taffeta there's n
=, end to their use.
, Taffeta and serge in combination ar
popular. both in dark colors and 1
white. and save in sports costumes on
: rarely sees an all serge frock in whit,
: a goodly share OF the skirt. usual
the whole upper section, is Of silk, an
so is most Of the bodice. though ther
may be a little loose bolero of som
sort in the serge.
Little coats Of all kinds are In ev
dence. but the oldest are the shol