The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-05-17
Simple Sashes and Circles.
BY JANE BARTON.

! HILE one does not see the exagser-
 \A/ ated Turkish sash drapery of last
 w summer. the sash and girdie play
 an important part in all the new frocks and In bringing old ones up to date. Iooay shall tell how such accessories, so costly to buy. can be made at home for mere- ly the cost of the materials
 It will be impossible. let me say at the out set, to give definite cost of these accss sories In buying these materials choose those that arc soft and pliant. that they may drape gracefully. Moire. soft finished tafrsts, meg saline, soft satin. lowered China silks. crepes, or chiffons by the yard can all be de- veloped into handsome drapery. Plain chif- ions and nets are also used, often accordion plaited And of course ribbons. Never have they been lovelier especially the Roman stripes and brocaded ribbons both in self tones and contrasting oolors.
 When possible buy the material by the yard on the bias. as it saves cutting and less need be bought; also get 1t as wide as pos sible. The silks that measure from thirty six to forty inches wide need few seams. The loops and ends are usually cut double. though good effects are now seen by machine hem stitching or the picot edge. The cost of the nen1stitching-about 12 to 1s cents yard--is eaualized by less material needed for the sash
 One of the most popular cash drsp peries of the season is that, made from material by the yard. Often on the taffeta frocks the sash is of self material. or it may be con trasting. as . figured taffsta on plain gown. or vice vsrsa. The girdle proper, which may be crushed or laid in five six upturned piaits. should be cut on the bias, ten or twelve inches wide. according to the depth that is becoming. and long enough to en- circle the waist and allow for turn ins. The short, stout woman should not wear girdis over four inches wide, while six or seven inches is the accepted width.
 The modern girdle is not heavily boned or made upon forms. Sometimes light boning is used at the sides if tho ribbon is soft, but usually the only boning is at the hooking point, and it is often omitted even thers Some dresnnakers prefer the ball and socket hook as being fiatter. but it is harder to fastsn. especially at the back. Choose the straight eye or a buttonholsd loop and have one at top and bottom of the girdls and from one to three between, according to the width of the sirdle.
 If the sash is to be worn with one frock only the girdle part is draped around the waist over the joining of skirt and bodice and the bow later sewed In place In such case boning ia not necessary, as tacking takes its place. To keep the separate girdae from pulling out of shape 1t is turned in top and bottom at least an inch and tackled to yer tical strips of binding ribbon or tape at each side, or closer if nsed'ed'; or narrow bonins can be used.
 With these crush or plaited eirdaes the novel finish Is a loose two looped bow with out ends Sometimes this is worn directly in the middle or the front, but more often in the center back to cap the bounant drap- cries. To make the loops cut . bias strip ten or twelve inches wide and forty-two inches long if the edges are to be picot; otherwise the strip is cut twice as wide, with enough moro for seams. For the latter fold the strip lengthwiss on the wrong side. sew narrow seam across each end and along the open side leaving enough space in the mi6die to turn. Blind stitch this opening together. Now fold the ends evenly to the middle to make two even loops about nine inches long. Crush or plAit into . two inch space and cover with . folded or crushed knot.