New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-06-18


STRAIGHT down the front or the back
with the small buttons, which are one
of their salient features. The basque
nort;ors had the carelessly fitted ap-
,.srance which is not easy to attain
Or ,bev were puckered under the arms
Nth a certain degree of regularity.
The proportions of the figure
seemed to govern the choice between
these two styles of apparent non-ht-
ting. Slender women generally wore
the basques which appeared to touch
the figure wherever they could and let
il 20 at that Plump women wore the
basque whose Fuckers seemed to have
ceen definitely placed.
The Bow Sash in Evidence
To thin and fat, sleeves set into
elongated shoulders or cut in one with
the garment appealed in about equal
numbers. And, while on some cos
Tunes there was a big bow at the
back where the skirt draws down, on
quite as many others were glrdies,
which were knotted low in front.
Scarcely any page capes were seen.
Among the few we'll known women
wearing one of them was Mrs. Will
lam K. Vanderbilt, jr., whose Jaunty
,,,h;+e-Iined black satin, wrap con-
trasted with an exquisite gown in
binee-encrusted Venise lace. Her pl-
quaint features were shaded by the
flexible brim of black straw hat with
a black velvet crown.
Yepow-Rrown Tones in Costumes.
Yellow-brown tones were prominent
in the club enclosure. MIS-. J. Lee
Taller, the beautiful mother OF that
charming debutante Of last winter
Miss Marie Taller, wore a cream
batiste gown and cream-hued nat
which perfectly set of her Titan hair
Miss Marie Rodewald, one OF the best
dressed girls of the Tuxedo set, wore
2 gabardine suit of champagne shade
matched by a straw hat trimmed with
black ribbon and pink roses. Mrs.
Arthur Scott Burden, who recently re-
vived the harem veil, was in an ochre
shade of taffeta, hounced with lace,
which accorded perfectly with a pink
rose-garnished ecru straw hat,
Notable among the yellow-brown
toned costumes was Mrs. Gordon
Douglass copper-hued crepe. Its in
definitely draped skirt made a series
Of ripples crossing from the right hip
and falling low at the left side. Its
upper portion, also of indefinite char
acter. had a loose panel back in short
Jacket effect, and at the neck was I'M
ished with a cream lace outstanding
collar. This collar showed only from
the back and did not connect with the
blouse fronts, which in no way sug-
gested that they were a part OF
jacket
Mrs. Douglas, who is always smart
ly CARRIED, wore not single jewel, and
on her dark brown hair was the SIM
plest of large hats. Black lace formed
the outer half and black straw the in
ner half of its brim, and on its crown
were two lacquered daisies and some
long black velvet leaves, applique
Double FriIlines on White Organize
Double frillings trimmed the white
organdie frock worn by Mrs. Ogden
Mills. Self-piped and in wave effect
they stood frankly away from the
skirt and gave it precisely that sum-
merry look which a June afternoon
costume should have. The all white
scheme of this frock was continued in
a close fitting white straw helmet,
trimmed with a single tall, white
singed plume.
Blue, that color hattering to most
women, was conspicuously present.
One girl, who has learned how to
make the most Of her old-gold colored
hair, wore a blue charmeuse under
skirt of trouser looking narrowness,
and a magenta and pink lowered blue
poplin overdrsss.
An outstanding collar in pleated
cream tulle, starting almost at the
shoulders OF the bodice, protected the
back of her neck from the sun, but
showed every shining strand of her
Growing glory" That hair fluffed
below white grape-trimmed hat,
whose brim shaded her face, while the
tilt of the shape and Its transparent
crown permitted every ray of sun
light TO fall full upon her locks.
Ribbons Simulate Flowers.
Two young girls in blue serge suits
wore fetching hats, which, from
short distance, appeared to be trimmed
with single large flower. In one
case this effect was produced by a
Hat pleating in blue silk, forming
border for a second pleating in white
silk, centring under a blue silk but
ton al the crowns anev On the o4Lar