davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

weighted ends, decorate many other
wise simple little frocks of cotton wo-
ven stuff. Typically fluffy and fem
mime according to the 1914 idea. is
the white frock with not ruffled tu-
mic The skirt of this frock Is of white
messaline, shirred around the hips to
yoke of gathered white net. At the
back the skirt is lifted a wee bit to
give the new hustle suggestion. The
tunic Is OF white net. gathered loosely
under a sash of white silk, in which
are tucked two silk roses, one red. the
other in tea rose tint-for these
touches of vivid, warm color on all
white costumes are very smart this
season. Three accordion pleated ruff
iles OF deeply scalloped net edge the
tunic and a double frill OF the net
pleating gives soft fluffy look at the
neck. The bodice is very loosely
draped over shadow lace. and under
these two layers of hlmy stuff is one of
the flesh colored tricot brassieres re-
ferred to some paragraphs back. This
frock, intended for summer dancing
wear, Is really an admirably simple
affair and could be duplicated at quite
iiANbSSt 'Al'NiSHt Dul IL "puld $tNi oSs
anywhere as being the very latest ex-
preston of the mode.
Another dancing frock of lingerie
material which appears much sim
pier but Is really vastly more elabor-
ate In type, Is the model which shows
loose drapery over the knees, below
bib-and-apron motif of lace. The
lace Is very costly real applique point
and the apron bib suggestion is car
ried out by Its arrangement over
shoulders and sleeves. With the lace
is used Il new cotton stuff called indie
structible wolfe which, though firmly
women, is of cobwebby sheerness and
hneness. A drapery of this material
is looped up at the front of the skirt
and again at the back, where the
drapery touches the waistllne. under
sash of salmon pink silk.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12
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butterflies Of crepe tina. hover, one
against the knee where the drapery
is lifted, and one al the corsage, where
a black net hchu crosses below a
string Of dull Jet beads.
a fchu Of white indestructible wolfe
the cobwebby material Just re-
ferred to--has a smart butterfly bow
Of black shadow lace where it crosses
below the bust and high wired Med
ici frtll OF the lace across the back Of
the shoulders. Attached to this black
frill is a band Of narrow black velvet
which encirclcs the throat, high under
the chin, holding the tall black frill
up behind the head. Medici collars
will continue to be worn by women
to whom they are becoming-which
means women with long, slender
throats. For the snorter-necked
woman there is the "stand-away" frlll,
also Of pleated net, but so arranged
that the pleatlng falls backward and
outward instead Of rising TO tickle the
ears. This effect IS achieved by round
ing down the back of the bodice in a
rather deep U, SO that the frill Is
pulled downward and outward at the
back instead Of standing erect. Many
Of the smartest frocks for the Riviera
have these "stand-away" frills.
The huge bow Of black tulle has
returned to favor, and the invariable
beccmingness OF this big. soft tulle
bow at the back cannot be denied. II
has a youthful suggestion, too, like
the big bow Of a young girls hair-rib-
bon, and moreover, it covers up tell
tale lines on tho neck, Just below this
10
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12
Blue and Pink u Babyish Color Com
bination in Favor.

bination in Favor.
Pale blue and pale pink used to-
gether have ever the charm of youth
full suggestion, and these babyish col
ors are quite the craze with lingerie
costumes-which do not show the Ill
tra-fashionable tints of saffron prim-
rose and daffodil. Very charming is Il
Lanvin frock of embroidered net over
oleander pink silk with wide sash
of pale blue tied below the knees. This
enchanting frock, as the illustration
shows, has excellent length of line,
yet Is as daintily fluffy and femininely
frilly as the soul of woman could de-
sire. The embroidered net tunlc--in
which motifs of machine embroidered
batiste are cleverly introduced--is
looped up, under the blue sash, above
a founced skirt of pin-tucked net,
each founce having an edge Of lace.
The upper hounce follows the upward
trend Of the SASH losing itself UNI
der the panel Of embroidered net at
the center front. This panel continues
| clear to the neck, and sections of the
tunic rise over the simple net bodice.
around the waistline. giving continuity
OF line to the tunic that suggests a
]
hat worn with this pretty frock comes
also from Lanvin. 1t is of leghorn in
the natural color with a pink oleander
! blossom at the front and loops and
streamers of palest blue ribbon at
sides and back.
Lanvins dainty creations always be-
| speak this couturier's rare charm and
| individuality. Her beautiful country
/ home, not far from Paris, Is furnished
/ in style as Individual and charming
as the dresses and hats displayed in
| her business establishment. Lanvin
/ makes a speciality Of clothes for young
/ girls from six to sixteen years old;
] but her debutante costumes are ador-
! able also, and many older women
longing 10 play the part Of youth go to
Lanvin. hoping to acquire girlishness
at her magic hands.
Net Plays a Large Part in Summer
Filmlness.
FiVe-siXths Of the new lingerie cos
! tunes show net Incorporation in one
form or another. Net footing is puffed
between strips of fine white batiste or
French organdie; net TUNES are drop
ped in minaret style from the waist
line. over frocks of embroidery; net
founces peep out below draperies of
lace and wolfe; net pleatlngs are every
where--at sleeve edges, outlining de-
collete bodloes, making TUNES fluffy;
and net sashbows with swinging,
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

webby wolfe called indestructible wolfe
because OF. its texture, firm and strong
despite the fairy-like sheerness. Such
guimpe as this will afford Just the
right protection, or yelling. between
the transparent blouse and the very
thin brassiere Of lace and ribbon COW
ering the corset. and will give a much
softer. daintier effect than the more
rigid wilderness of the old style cor
set-cover or brassiere. The guimpe
described Is Of embroidered white net
flouncing. the scalloped edge of the
flouncing bordering the deep V at the
front, whilo plain white net of the
same texture is used for the back, be-
low transverse strip Of the embroid-
cred founcing which crosses tho back
of the neck. This guimpe fastens at
the front, below the V OF the decol-
letage and tape, run through casing,
holds it firmly at the waistline. Tho
armholes are prettily finished with
picot edging.
illustrated is more ambitious
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

hands Of an accomplished maker. A
collar or tichu in the very latest style,
by the same token. can lift to interest
the simple dinner frock whose skirt
and sash are Just bit passe in STYLE
while not the latest incarnation Of the
minaret can save a frock whose neck
arrangement savors of antediluvian
ism. Woman has learned all this, and
the neckwear counter is one Of the
most popular and busy centers In
every shop at the between season
time. Some Of the big shops have had
to divide forces in the neckwear in
terest in fact, and have separate coun-
tiers with special clerks to handle the
enormous sales in by-the-yard ruch-
ings and frillings which manufacture
ers cannot turn out fast enough to
meet the demand.
There is Just hint in the air Of
high collars and return to the dis
comfort Of boned stocks around the
throat; but 1t Is only a threatening
hint as yet, for all the new neckwear
Or nine-tenths Of 1t at least-is Of
the low-necked variety. Women will
not easily give up these comforta BILE
and becoming arrangements and
fichus and Fittings will undou btedly
remain in favor through the coming
summer at least, the stiffiy boned stock
waiting Its turn until fall. New
guimpes Of the collarless variety have
two soft strips of net crossed in front,
ichu fashion. the guimpe OF net fast
ening at the back and extending be-
low the armpits--as all well-fitting
guimpes must; and such guimpes will
undoubtedly be very popular with "
cut bodices and blouses for spring
wear. Other guimpes have Fittings
of net or lace. A very practical guimpe
model Is one which extends all the
way to the waistline and which may
be- worn under transparent blouse
Of lace. embroidery or the new cob
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

guimpe, designed for wear with one
of the short, coquettish coats of the
new season, or with a bodice opening
in bolero fashion to show vest or
chemisette. This guimpe is made like
the guimpe mentioned above except
that the waistcoat of colored silk, set
In at the front, extends in two tabs
below the waistline, and there Is a
crushed silk girdle to match that
passes around the waist, fastening at
the back, under the coat. With spring
tailleurs Of the new taffeta or ESyp-
tian crepe, these sleeveless gulmpes
will be very comfortable on warm
days, and when 1t is not the intention
to remove the coat during ones out
ing. The guimpe pictured has waist
coat and girdle of tango pink faille
and the round buttons match the silk.
Frills of lace. pleated or organ hu-
ted" thickly. hide the application Of
the silk waistcoat to the net garment.
Above the waistcoat. hand-tucked net
has been set into the guimpe. also
outlined with the lace frilling.
Another illustration shows an eX
ample Of the vogue for airy black
neckwear. and a new four-in- hand tie
of black satin garnished with white
tulle frilling-an odd whimsey OF
Dame Fashion-Just to show man
that she can borrow his belongings
II she pleases and make them into es-
sentially feminine wearables. The
butterfly OF black lace Is particularly
chic. These airy black butterflies, OF
net, tulle and lace, are being worn in
lieu Of corsage flowers in paris ugjth
white frocks and fichus. They are also
used instead of sashbows at tho back
Of the waistiine, and catch up drap-
cries on the skirt. A mourning gown
recently built for youthful widow
Is OF black taffeta and somber crepe.
but there Ia nothing somber about the
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12
Invisible Dress Shields

the said powers that be by the vogue
OF transparent bodices. Thick muslin,
or even silk shields were q manifest
impossibility with the semi-nude eff
fects of the moment SO women-sim-
ply went without shields and renewed
the filmy tulle and lace bodice when
necessary to keep It fresh. This was
hard on the dress-shield manufac-
turers. Something had to be done
to save the situation: and the happy
result Is the almost invisible shield.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

Nh PRACTICALLY invisible dress
v shields have at last been invented
and womankind will be eternally
grateful. The hideous semi-circle Of
thick white dress-shield has ruined
the effect of many q sheer white waist,
yet adjusted in the waist only and not
In the sleeve a shield accomplishes lit
tie good. OF course this belated In
spiration on the part of the powers
that be that manufacture dress shields
Is due to the pressure brought upon
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12
Trqueler' S Tea

TTk HEN TRAY eAns lheIe 10 great com
WD tort IN ones own cup of tea
Wv ror this poignant need of IN,
elcr charming little tea box v
mahogany, containing small sllvel
tea caddy ana IA little tea ball. repro
duced In miniature and a teakettle
has been placed upon the market. /
is very simple In its arrangement
compact and easy to pack and makes
a really practical gift.
There are many places in America
and in Europe also, where good tea 1,
a luxury, and many an unsuspet tins
American woman is astonished wheI
she pays her bill for what she con
siders very simple repast She usu
ally finds that her cup of tea COS
more than very elaborate dessert
and so tho new idea is n great eoonol
my as well as a comfort when on thu
train or on the steamer.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12
Gay Couture Caps AT
The French Theatres

YTg,TH gowns Of white or pastel
hS.S tinted material, women are
w wearing al the theatre now, in
Paris couture caps Of almost Orien-
tai brulloucy and hue Royal pur-
pie. orange and cerise are the favored
oolors for these caps, which have a
closely fitting, surrel crown attached
TO a wide hcadbaId. Cold or silver
lace motifs are oppl.qued to the cap
Of gay colorcd silk crepe. Egyptian
spangles are stwed ON the lace and
gold threads are embroidered between
the spansles to complete the Oriental
effect.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

scheme of correct dressing. A mod
ish hat and neckwear fresh and un-
equivocally up-to-date can carry off
even shabbiness in the tailored street
costume, while out-of- date neckwear
and shabby hat will utterly spoil the
effect of a tailleur fresh from the
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

OMEN know that they come
into their own, with e
advent of the filmy frocks
of midsummer They wear
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

HE past few seasons seem TO
have impressed upon woman
kind the paramount importance
Of smart neck dressing in the
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-12

Net, Chiffon and Lace
Make Up the Exclusive
Lingerie Frock for Sum
mer Days IS Brassieres
Of Flesh Colored Tricot
Suggest the Fashion.
able Semi Nude Effect
Odd, Subtle Shades in
Sashes Give Interesting
Notes Of Color.
The Wallace miner. [volume] (Wallace, Idaho) 1907-current, 1914-12-10
NEW NORDBERC HOIST
INSTALLED BY MARSH
EXTENSIVE IMPROVEMENTS RE.
SUIT IN REDUCING COST
OF OPERATION.

The new Nordberg hoist for the
Marsh mine has arrived at Burke. An
idea of the size of this new plant may
be gained by the statement that 1t re-
CURED three ears to transport II.
Everything is in readiness at the mine
for its reception and il is expected
that it will require about three weeks
to place 1t In position and in working
order Manager Earle Greenough re-
turned from Missoula the first of the
week, where he had been to attend a
meeting of the board of directors Of
the Marsh company. When seen upon
his return Mr.. Greenough stated that
he had nothing further to give out for
publication beyond the interview pub
lished in the Missoulian the day fol-
lowing the meeting, but intimated that
there might be something additional a
little later Regarding Improvements
at the mine Mr. Greenough said:
Reduce Cost of Operation.
1--WE have just completed the new g.
compartment shaft at the Marsh mine.
The new shaft connects the ore body
on the SO0-foot level with the adit tun-
mel. It's completion will enable us to
mine our ore at much less cost than
heretofore In addition to the new
shaft work, we have cut out the most
modern underground shaft station in
the Occur d'Alenes.
"The new station has a capacity OF
1000 tons of ore. The new S0O-horse-
power electrical hoist is now being put
in place The new hoist is of the lat
est pattern having a speed of 500 feet
per minute, and will hoist "a tons per
trip from a depth of 27o0 feet We
hope to have it ready for operation by
January |. We used six carloads OF
material for the concrete base for the
new hoist"
Await Better Metal Prices.
Mr. Greenough further stated thai
the Marsh company is now making
preparations to sink the 3-compart-
ment shaft to an additional depth OF
i275 feet in order to block out more
ore, so as to be ready for a much
greater output, 30 soon as the meta
market conditions permit.
The Wallace miner. [volume] (Wallace, Idaho) 1907-current, 1914-12-10
STEWART DIVIDEND
COMING Up JANUARY |
HEINZE's FRIENDS STILL IN CON.
TRoL-DlVIDEND RECORD
OF $1,23o,ooo.

The forthcoming dividend which
will be paid by the Stewart Mining
company calls out the following COM
ment on that company and its con-
trolling ownership from the Butte
Miner:
Directors of the Stewart Mining
company have posted the regular
quarterly dividend of 10 cents a share
and an extra dividend of 10 cents,
amounting in all to 20 cents a share,
both payable January l. This pay
ment will amount to about $4,000 and
brings the total dividends paid by this
company up to 81 a share. or $780,
600. All this has been done within the
short period of about two years and
the mine is reported to be in the besl
physical condition in its history.
Of. August Heinze and his crowd Sc
cured control Of the property just a
short time previous to Heinze's death
This was done by the purchase OF a
large block of the company stock
which was held by the Assets Realiza- l.
tion company as part collateral for the
4 81 600 600 loan to the United Copper
company a Heinze concern. The stocF
was acquired by L. w. Robinson, q
prominent coal merchant of Rochester
n. Y, and former Senator Bracket OF
Saratoga Springs, N. Y.
Heinze Crowd Controls.
"These new interests were friendly
to Heinze and he obtained control o.
the company and was elected presi'
dent and treasurer. H. c. Todd ha'
been elected to these positions and c
w, Sake, one Of the Heinze crowd
was placed on the board of directors
Thus the affairs of the bonanza pro
ducer are to be conducted on the SAM
order as It was previously under tn
Heinze regime. While the property i
located in Idaho, there has been con
siderable local interest in the mine
various times.
"This is the first dividend payini
4 mine ever controlled by Heinze dur
ing his long career Of mining opera
Itfons in the west. 1t was one or IN
properties which began to make pro
fits early in its career, and while IN
company has had some litigatio
there has been less of 1t than most @
Ibis enterprises. The property y max
ing good profits on its lead productio
ord ehouId have smooth sailing, tror
NOW nnn
The Wallace miner. [volume] (Wallace, Idaho) 1907-current, 1914-12-10
PERMANENT ADVANCE
IN PRICE or SPELTER
EASTERN REPORTS INDICATE
OUTLOOK is BETTER THAN
FOR MANY MONTHS.

The most gratifying feature of the
local mining situation is the rapid ad-
vance of spelter, which was quoted in
New York yesterday at $5.65 to S5.75.
Indications are that there Is to be
steady European demand, with In
creased domestic consumption, which
combine to make the outlook for zinc
producers better than it has been for
many months. Discussing the spelter
market the Boston News Bureau says:
"Viewing the spelter situation from
all angles, it appears to be in the
strongest position for many months
particularly when 1t is remembered
that for the past 10 years the average
price has been $50 cents per hundred
Advancing in Price.
"Thanks to a very insistent Euro
pean demand, spelter is rapidly ad-
vancing in price, sales today having
been made at 5 Y cents per pound as
against 40 a month or more ago 1t
! Is believed that scent spelter will be
seen before the turn of the new year
! Contrary to what happened shortly
after the outbreak of the war, Wher
spelter Jumped to cents, the present
advance appears legitimate. At thai
time the rise was caused by rush t.
cover sales made on the assumption
that the European smelters could bt
relied upon for deliveries. The sudaer
shutting down OF these European
plants caused an inordnate demand
from shorts After the demand wa'
satisfied and surplus stocks in thi'
country licked up, the inevitable drol
in price followed.
"At present there are no visibl
stocks in this country, and with tn
Australian production cut off the de
mand from abroad has been responsi
BILE for the price advance to 5B cents
The result has been that for the pas
month or two the United States ha
been a large exporter Of spelter, some
thing almost unprecedented. The for
eign demand is not hard to explain
when 1t Is realized that ordinaril
Australia produces 100000 tons Q
zinc concentrates year which ar
smelted in Belgian and German plant
which are now closed England, on
IF the largest consumers of speltei
has been largely dependent on thi
Australian supply as she uses 225.00
tons per annum and produces but 80,
900 tons"
The Wallace miner. [volume] (Wallace, Idaho) 1907-current, 1914-12-10

interests of other states are taking in
the action of Idaho
"The Northwest Electric Light &
Power association, with which am
connected" he said, "eXtends over
Montana. Idaho, Washington and Ore
gon. The matter Of overhead line
construction is of vital interest in all
young states, especially where there is
60 much development depending on
electric power and where the cost Of
transmission and distribution lines is
such an important factor.
Indorse Safety First.
eve realize. as everybody else does.
that safety to human life is the first
and most important consideration IN
all these matters. We feel that the
safetv of employees and the public
should be thoroughly protected, and
still the rules for line construction be
made so liberal that the electric pow
er of the great northwest can be util-
i2cd in the development Of the re-
sources Of the country.
Mr.. Fisken also spoke of the import
ance Of the coming action of the pub
lie utilities commission.
Electric Power and Mining
INV company" he said, Sin common
with all other power companies oper-
atjng in north Idaho, is vitally inter
ested in the final outcome of this
hearing now on with the public utlil-
tias commission. Few people in soutf
Idaho realize what electric power
means in the development of the min
ing industry This is not only import
ant TO the large properties that are
onara fling on a broad scale, that arr
producing mines, but infinitely more
so to prospects. or new mines una
still have their way to make IN th'
world.
"To reach many of these prospects
u is often necessary TO construct lonf
Transmission lines. This is expensive
and many good mining prospect
must be abandoned on this account u
add largely to the cost Of CONSTRUCTION
Of these transmission lines, and to es
tablish rules that would make It prac
tlcally impossible to build line
through many of the narrow canyon
Of the north would, in my judgmen'
he disastrous to the mining Industry
Ready to Cooperate.
"Power men are asking nothing nn
reasonable. we are not opposed I
rules-we court the establishment
rules and are ready to cooperate WI
Ithe commission and with all other IN
terests to the end that our empioye
and the public shall have every posi-
bIe protection. All we ask Is that ta'
treatment be accorded this great IN
dnstrv and that the power and hgn
men be accorded every reasonable "a
cllity in assisting in developing IN
state"
The Wallace miner. [volume] (Wallace, Idaho) 1907-current, 1914-12-10
OVERHEAD POWER LINES.
A Hearing That Is of Far-Reaching
Importance to Mining Districts.

THE hearing before the Idaho utili-
ties commission involving the over
head construction Of electric light and
power transmission lines has been
postponed until January IL. The
hearing is the result of a move on the
part of the telephone and telegraph
companies to place restrictions upon
the light and power companies that
would seriously interfere with the ex-
tension of new lines and have ten
dency to increase the cost of electric
light and power to consumers The
accomplishment of that purpose would
also place a most serious obstacle In
the way OF mining operations, particu-
larly in the development of new min
ing properties which have come to
rely almost wholly upon electric pow
er. The Importance Of electric power
to q mining district is clearly outlin-
ed by J. G.. Martin, chairman of the
overhead line committee of the North
ton. and John p. Fisken, of the Wash
ington Water Power company, wht
were in Boise to anpe9r be-
fore the utilities commission on the
first Of the month
Other States Interested,
When seen after the meeting Mr.
Martin said he attended because o.
the deep concern the power and ligh