Evening star., 1914-10-01

Special Correspondence of The Star.
NEW YORK, September 30.-One sees
a great quantity of turbans, high and
low, but the fiat sailor is considered
the newer shape.
1t was begun in Paris last June at
the races and was universally worn at
the smart resorts until the outbreak OF
war The turban was shown at many
of the French houses during the mil
iinery season, and this established 1t
as a fashion, but there is no doubt
that this shape of brim was preferred
At Deauville before the August sea-
son began there were many fashion
able women foregathered, and they
wore some very good-looking clothes;
the hats there were sailor shapes, many
of them invented by Chanel, who, with
Royant, made such d success during
the season of 1913 with the striped
velvet loose coat and Hopping hat
This year they repeated their success,
which was not so pronounced. ana not
so generally known, because the Deau-
Vile season was to open Saturday, Au-
gust /, the day of French mobilization
The Chanel hat that was most popu-
lar had a soft crown and three-lnch
stiff brim made of striped velvet snow
ing two strong colors, and bound at
the edge with black silk braid. At the
black grosgrain ribbon
This type of hat was worn with
loose coat cape made of the same ma
terial and hanging well away from a
very short white serge skirt cut in
Godet sections and fashioned down the
front.
These hats and coats have been
brought to America and will undoubt-
edIy have a smart beginning at the
outdoor autumn sports around New
York.
The Georgette Sailor.
hat, just as earlier has always liked
the small one. She is always willing
to invent large shape and put it be-
fore the public whenever she has the
chance Both Georgette and Reboux
were faithful to the sailor this summer
md they have made fashionable the
kind of hat shown in this sketch to-
,ay.
II will always be becoming to Ger
tain type of women. 1t has been in
fashion throughout many kinds of
ooiffures- To-Day it must have a small
crown on the inside If not the outside,
because the coiffure is sleek and close
to the head. The hat crown of other
days would perch the hat on the tip
of the nose instead of the lobe of the
There is no getting away from the
black velvet hat 1t must be accepted
and made the best of. In France they
are putting a string of white jet beads
at the base of the crown to relieve the
dull color, but any such enlivenment
as a rose or a colored plume is rarely
indulged in. Here and there is a bit
of fur, and often an ornament made of
pleated ribbon.
Small and Wide Brim.
This Georgette sailor is not the only
type that will be worn this winter.
There are various others, some more
irregular in the brim; others much
narrower. The average size is quite
convenient and as the head band is
small the entire hat is comfort to
wear.
This Georgette model is important in
showing a fringe of ostrich tips placed
at the edge of the brim. This is a very
old fashion revived. 1t is borrowed
from the world of gowns where hens
and collars and cuffs are decked out
with tiny fringes of plums.
One of the newest shirt waists is of
white batiste with a turnover collar
and the fronts edged with white ostrich
tips. The cuffs also have a fringe of
these fiues. Many of the velvet gowns
and top coats are edged with long
haired monkey fur, and a well known
woman of fashion recently appeared in