The Washington herald., 1914-03-08
-EdmOus,Ou Photo. Washington. d. c.

snowstorm one straw hat at least has sp-
peared on Connecticut avenue with its
wearer. Mrs. George Marye. This Is a
black Spanish turban in Milan straw
with its trimming long. well-tied loops Of
black satin slanting earthward instead OF
skyward. which, after all is a distinction
and must be regarded as q new fashion.
The short fur jacket that London and
Paris considers a spring and autumn
accessory with modish cloth skirts Is
shown to perfection in the smart costume
of Mrs. Borden Hartman, late Of New
York. but now residing in Washington.
where she has the distinction of being
one of the first society women to occupy
an important post under the national
government Mrs. Hartman is distinctly
believer in fur coats. For day or for
evening she has coats that go to the
ankle. for afternoon wear she has one of
the smartest chinchilla Jackets on the
straight line with scalloped back, which
is a model later to appear in many new
cloth coats. This jaunty little coat fits
smoothly above the shoulders is collar
less and untrimmed. At no point does Il
extend more than two inches below the
normal waist line. The soft gray and
white fur is made up lengthwise in the
body of the garment with a formed band
OF six or eight inches showing the reverse
line going about the lower edge. Mrs.
Hartman wears this with a dark cloth
skirt and tops it with a small black hat
showing a white and gray outstanding
ostrich plume.
A cold-weather visiting toilet Of broad
tail and long-piIed velvet of the old
fashioned reliable kind is one Of the
individual modish gowns worn by Mrs.
Elsie Cobb Wilson, who designs her own
clothes with the same artistic success
that has already given her an enyiable
reputation on interior decoration. Mrs.
Wilson's black gown shows q panel of
broad tail on each side of the narrow
skirt, the front and back of which are
of the velvet. The jacket. much the
same model as Mrs. Harriman's, is en-
tirely OF fur except as regards the loose,
long sleeves. With this she carries a
mum of broad tail and wears a small
black velvet hat with soft aigrette in
white.
Young Mrs. Is MS blouse. showing
when she opens this cold-weather jacket.
i5 one of the ra-smart whito blouses
coming back to the fashionable wardrobe.
II is fine unfgured mel in ivory tint, |
mounted on self-colored satin all in fine
unstitched pleats.
sister. the shirtwaist. is not the least OF
the problems Of dress every woman will
be called upon to decide for herself in |
the next few weeks.
4 between-season demi-toilet of the |
first class is that worn by Mrs. Blaine |
Elkins. just back from a visit to New
York, where the private views and
sales" all direct importations. present. |
ed themselves with last weeks blizzard. |
This is a one-piece gown on conservative |
lines. OF the latest tone taupe. Whether |
il is silk or satin depends entirely on |
ones prejudices, as the background is /
a corded silk. the small brocade leaf
pattern high luster satin. In this we see |
the same narrow skirt of the past six /
months, the same V front and neck, with |
possibly the extending slightly lower. /
The drapery is quite full about the hips |
after the fashion of a panier, with broad |
box plaits in front. The top of this gown |
shows the loose shoulder from which
long, narrow sleeves extend to the wrist. /!
Possibly the most significant feature in i
this is the return of the belt, not merely |
a girdle. There is a girdle of black /
moire ribbon going completely around
the waist and this is supplemented by a |
leather belt of a most glorified variety /
which starts from the under arm seams /
and fastens in front with an antique
gold buckle. The belt is two inches deep, /
of taupe color inlaid in round medallions /
of crimson and yellow fine enough in /
their execution to be mistaken forl
enamel. In saying the belt starts from
the under arm seams II must not be |
assumed that the latter loses itself in a |
seam, that would be much too ordinary
a process for the inventor of this gown
The ends are clamped to the waist by
small antique slides matching the above
buckle.
In this We see the first suspicion Of |
the lowered waistline which some people /
say is to be a feature of next summers
gowns, while other fashion prophets
equally well informed aver that the en-
pire style is returning in such force as
to make the belts mount upward.
Whatever the spring colors may be,
here will be no discount on the firmly
established tsupe. In millinery this tone
mas come to be almost as stable as
black. the all-taupe hat being accepted
as the successor of the one indispensa BILE
all-black hat. supposed to go with any,
hing.
Mime. Hauge Is wearing q velvet hat
that shows Paradise, or Gourra in taupei