The Washington times., 1914-03-16

certainly very effective, however,
and have appeared to advantase in
Varieties of Moire.
Speaking Of materials. I wonder
how many women appreciate the
many varieties Of MORE there are
used to be a fixed quantity: but
nowadays there are taffeta moires,
crepe de chine moires, faille moires,
and I don't know how many others.
There are even moire straws, and 1t
looks as though this silk had its
finger in every fashion pie.
The care has certainly folled it,
self about Paris. One sees more
and more of the Spanish cape of
black satin. fastened in front by
crossed bands and revealing beneath
that dashing swish lining of pea
cock blue or scarlet.
Then there is the pelerine Of taf-
feta, with little outstanding collar
and two scalloped edges coming Just
below the waist line. Cheruit Is re-
sponsible, too, for a long circular
cape of taffeta, with which she
completes one of the taffeta gowns
of which she Is SO fond. This cape,
fastened securely on the shoulders,
has wide revers in front and and
pelerine in the back.
By the way, the aforementioned
artistic may be responsible for a
revolution in hens, for she has ex-
plotted recently a skirt-hem only a
quarter Of an inch in depth. THIS
same parsimonious hem Is repeated
on the sleeves.
We're going after the peasant
woman who carries basket on her
head remarked the pretty Amer
lean girl sitting with me at Sans
Souci the other afternoon.
A Hucksters Display.
And it is true. The hat which
called forth this comment was moth
ing more than a close-fitting crown
jammed down over the head and
covered on top with fruit-a regular
and brilliant Japanese apples. To
Offset this restaurant-window effect
was a smashing bow Of faille placed
at the left side Of the hat.
This blackberry trimming Is only
one Of the various millinery whims
that have appeared during the past
weeks. Georgette Is responsible Tor
lt-dl lcttSt IhuCu VI lt"-ehc oAC - otSo
for the hats massed with white vio-
lets. Earlier in the season. you re-
member, this famous artistic was
busy making embankments Of pur-
pie violets. but now she has swerved
and has declared her allegiance to
the snowy blossoms.
Undoubtedly the greatest sensation
of the season. however. Is the burnt
ostrich trimming originated by Nine.
Beboux. For a long time. you see,
the milliners have been conturing
their brains to find q substitute for
the prohibited aigrette. Now. by
repeated experiments on the good.
reliable old ostrich plume, they have
succeeded in burning away its sub
stantial body until 1t appears almost
as delicate as the beautiful aigrette.
Needless to say. 1t takes great
number Of these denuded feathers to
make an adequate trimming. and
the result is that bunch OF burnt
ostrich is quite as expensive as the
plumage which it understudies.
Louis Philippe Hats.
If you are walking in the Bois or
tangoing at the Magic City. you are
very likely these days to run Into
one Of the new Louis Philippe hats.
Here, If you please. Is something
very different. for the Louis Philippe
is nothing more nor less than a gen.
tIeman's high silk hat worked out
in straw. 1t is an extremely smart
and becoming shape-particulariy IN
brown-and affords US a relief from
the everlasting Reboux sailor.
Sometimes the only trimming Tor
this tailor made hat consists OF a
band of ribbon. but the most enec-
tive thing tried out on 1t Is the Louis
XIV flower basket motif placed d.
rectIy in front. This motif Is worked
out into a basket with nandle oy
the aid of gold braid. and Is given a
very realistic touch by the flowers
and fruit which appear to be coming
out over the baskets edge. Some OF
these fruits and flowers are. by the
way. made Of gelatine-a substance
which composes the blooms on
many of the new hats.
Worn at the Ritz.
II YOU are looking around among
millinery flora you are sure to come
rose has fiattened petals and is gen.
orally carried out N taffeta or veil
vet. As a rule. the flower Is Of rose
color ard is really verv beautiful in
combination with the hat of tete de
negre. One such hat which I saw
the other afternoon at the Ritz. worn
by a famous actress, consisted SIM
ply of q crown Of brown straw set
off at the back with Poincare Roses
in taffeta.
Georgette. it will be remembered.
was the originator of the Minerva
helmet. so widely exploited at the
first races of the season. In the
early days It was developed almost
entirely in flowers, but now you see
this hat carried out in number OF
different materials.