The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-08
AMERICAN DESIGNED FASHIONS MAKE A HIT

1 and several late Paris models that are
finding favor are distinctly short Of
waist and straight and clinging Of skirt
contrasting oddly with the wide fiaring
tunic and long WASTED frocks all around
| them. one of these Directoire models
shown among the sketches is OF the sim
plest, but thanks to the beauty % its
materials attains pronounced elegance
The material is an exquisite dull god
velvet, the only trimming bands of hand
some dark brown fur. The kart back
falls quite ctraight from a bodice back
as straight, the two Joining under fold
az a short waist line. The bodice back
curves around under the armt In tabs
to hold bands of fur which cross on the
bodice front. a broad band OF fur on
the skirt bottom, bands of fur on the
sleeves, a little standing collar OF velvet.
some soft net in the open bodice front.
There Is tn frock compete and ii has
unquestionable distinction, though II
differs radically from the most generally
accepted types.
Velvet. by the way is being used IN
enormous quantities and already there
* much talk of scarcity in the best quail
itics and the most admired colors. The
same is true of the most desirabl. OF the
silks Tete de Negro, the brown which,
after spring success In Paris. has
leaped into popularity here this autumn
and rivals the dark blues and prunes in
favor, Is already hard TO find in the
best qualities of silk and of wool. and
the importers shake their heads when
one asks about further supplies.
The satin finish silks seem to have
lost none Of their popularity, though
failles and the heavier bongalines are
highly favored and tho modes Of the
moment are well adapted to silks OF
considerable body though . extreme
softness. Drap dc charmeuso ia char
mouse finish without the reprehensible
cnarmcusc propensity to rub up In
rough fuZ3 with wears one of the
lovoiest Of the satin wcaves, and though
expensive has sold rapidly in all the
best liked Colors.
Gabardiur. hroadcoth ami line twill
serge among smooth woollers. long
line of vClvety wool stuff on the order
pf last seasons wool vclours, and du-
Vetyn, and silky Zibeline woollens, such
AS pcau de sourls, kittens ear, &C, are
the successful woollen suit and frock
materials. That there is any serge or
satin left in the shops seems surprising
when one considers the epidemic OF one
piece frocks In serge and satin COM
blnation. Nothing is better for street
and general utility wear than simple
frock of this sort, and apparently women
and manufacturers have fully grasped
this fact and acted upon il.
Most Of the models have sleeves and
understands of satin. with the rest OF
the frock in serge matching the satin
IN color. and the number Of changes
rung upon this theme does credit to the
fertility Of the dressmakers' brains. One
good model Of this class, illustrated
among the small pictures, gives a fair
idea of the smart severity Of its type.
The sleeveless everybody has good
detail in the way in which the back Is
cut to run forward over the shoulders
and form a little yoke, which buttons
In front at the base OF the high collar.
The satin sleeve has a few licked up
;ucks across the shoulder and l. cut on
kimono lines and attached tn a bodice
lining. The high collar, slipping away
in front, is new and should be worn with
one of the little linen or organdy high
collars that have small turned down
points.