The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-10-04
By CLAUDE CHERYs.
+ the moment when am writing
u this article the French capital
n far HauarY1nant i9


are concerned is at Biarrttz.
Biarritz has become a centre OF ex-
element. 1t is thronged with Parisians
who have been driven from their homes.
1t is impossible to find vacant room
In any Of the hotels, large or small.
Several OF the more important build
ings the great Casino for example. have
been taken by the Government az hos
pitfalls for the wounded soldiers.
The beautiful Queen of the Emerald
Coast. is crowded to overlooking, but
there are no gay doings. One casino,
As I have Just said, is filled with
wounded soldiers; the other casino had
10 be- closed because all the men con-
nected with 1t have gone to the war
There are no bands. no concerts, no
dances, nothing but the glorious sea
and the society Of sympathetic friends.
Yet every one is thankful to be here;
very thankful to be out OF Paris for
the moment.
As I said at the beginning OF this
article. Biarrftz ia this autumn the
centre of the world Of fashion. Many
of the leading Paris dressmakers and
milliners have branch establishments
here which are open all the year
round, and just now the new autumn
and winter models are being shown
here instead OF in Paris.
Even II Europe had remained at
peace Biarritz would have been an i'm
porfant fashion centre at this moment.
The beautiful women who form the
court circle Of Spain are accustomed
70 buy their dresses and hats at Bar
ritz. and they are extremely fond Of
pretty clothes. In the months of Sep
tember and October large purchases
are made by the Spaniards and also by
rich visitors from the Argentine Re-
public, who are here in great numbers.
have sketched this week two of the
newest winter models created by the
Maison Paquin. In them you have de-
picted several of the most important
novelties OF the season. No. shows
quaint costume composed of nuthrown
velvet and trimmed with silver fox.
The ultra long tunc is very fun at
the hem, but at the waist It Is shaped 10
the figure. Then the coatee. which in
front looks Ike an Eton jacket. has a
cleverly arranged basque at the hack.
This basque is bordered with fur and
the folded sash Ia made of Ottoman silk
I'm peculiar shade OF dahlia red. The
buttons on the front of the coatee are
covered with rough brown leather
which looks like crocodile skin. and the
sleeves are rucked at the wrists like
long mousquetaire gloves
There is something Russian in the
whole outline of this costume It Is
an eminently attractive model and one
which would look we'll II copied in black
velvet and trimmed with skunk. or In
the new canvas cloth which has soft
hairs all over It's surface.
Tho second sketch shows one OF the
picturesque tippet capes. which are
revival OF very old ana attractive
fashion. We shall find capes OF this
order very popular all through the
winter and they will be worn by women
Of uncertain age as well as by pretty
young gfrls-
The model shown In my sketch was
made OF black chiffon velvet and
trimmed with bands of erm!ne. The
tippet was lined with shot tafYeta, which
gave an impression of mother OF pearl
shades. faintest pink. blue, pear gray
and silver. The tippet cape was beauti-
fully made. 1t was slightly gathered
round the neck and there were two
long sash ends which seemed to be tied
ut the hack rather low down. These
ends were not really tied. A large loose
velvet bow was made and invisibly fas-
tened where the ends crossed
This quaint garment was accompanied
BY long. very narrow mum. which was
made OF the same velvet as the tippet.
Tho mum was barrel shaped and Dor
dered at either end with bands OF
ermine
similar models were made Of sapphire
blue velvet trimmed with skunk and of
pearl gray veiveteen trimmed with white
Ycx The latter set was quite charm
Ing. Both tippet and muff were lined
with shell pink tafYeta and they were
90 b worn in conjunction with
tailored suit OF pearl gray faced cloth.
Tho two hats shown ON my fun
length figures are admirable winter
SnodeiA That shown on the first figure
y earlier design, a modified Napoleon
hat in ottoman silk lined with velvet.
Tho imposing mounts are made OF the
now horsehair which initiates so
ciAveray those wonderful aigreres and
Ospreys which were fashionable a sea-
son or two ago.
The eecond figure shows a rarely
lovely picture hat. THIS shape became
very popular at the beginning of the
season at the seaside Some of the
moro elaborate hats designed for the
Deauville race week were Of this order:
beautiful picture hats made OF thick
corded silk or Of finc felt and lined with
mirror velvet. The model I have
sketched was lavishly trimmed with
beautiful ostrich feathers.
A considerable effort has been made
10 bring small waists into fashion again.
One OF. the most influential dressmakers
In the Place vendome in Paris declared
early in the summer season. that he
would deal death bow to the natural
corset. We are still waiting for this
death blow to be struck. AS a matter
OF fAct prominent society women OF
Paris are becoming more and more we'd
ded TO the comfortable corsets which
allow freedom Of movement while Civ
tng an exceedingly graceful and classic
outline to the bust and hips.
The style OF corset which is now gen.
orally worn by the smartest Parisiennes
q particularly becoming to almost all
dg1ireA 1t brings the bust and hips
into correct proportion and though II
lncreaoeo the actual size Of the waist