The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-10-25

waist line and the design extended over
| the hips. The revers were turned back
| with black breitschwanz
| My second full length sketch shows
| a beautiful black velvet costume, also
| Redfern model. Here I have indi-
Gated the ultra long tunic coat, which
| buttons down the front and is con-
| fined at the back by sash. The out
| line shown here is peculiar. but It is
! not unduly eccentric. Garments of this
order were introduced into the world Of
! fashion at the end of the summer sea-
son.
The ultra long tunic and tunic coat
have proved very becoming to the aver
age woman. At first sight II would seem
as though such a garment was bound
| to cut the figure in an unbecoming
way; but no. When these long tunic
coats are cleverly worn they almost al
] ways score a success.
| I have already pointed out that vel
vet Is to be one of the special materials
of this winter-black velvet first and
then all the rich dark shades of brown
purple. prune and gray. Dark blue vel
vet viii also he worn but artistic shades
! of brown. prune and purple will be
more popular
The short skirt which accompanied
the tunic coat shown in my sketch was
comparatively wide at the hem, but the
, extreme length and width of the tunic
made the skirt look quite insignificant.
This is one Of the latest ideas, The
other afternoon in very smart res
taurant / was looking down on the
crowd from a balcony which ran around
the tea rooms. There were several
women wearing costumes like the one
, have illustrated and in each case the
| effect seen from above was that of an
| abnormally short full skirt. From that
distance one could not distinguish the
| skirt proper and 1t seemed as though
| the tundc itself formed skirt
The model which have sketched had
| bands of white fox round the collar and
| on the cuffs This Is new and charm
ing idea. Very beautiful and costly fur
can be used in this way because very
little of 1t Is required I have seen dark
purple velvet dresses trimmed with
bands of sable and picturesque gowns
| of smoke gray velveteen finished with
bands of smoked fox on neck and
! sleeves.
Both Redfern and Paquin are using
great deal of leopard skin this winter
These skins are now so perfectly pre-
pared that they are supple as satin and
for wide stoes and large barrel muffs
they are wonderfully effective. / think
II was Princess Pless who first made
leopard skin popular in Europe. know
that she had wonderful stole and muff
made of this fur about two years ago.
The stole was very wide and was lined
with black chiffon. The first time I
saw it worn by the popular Princess
Daisy was at a charity fete in Paris
She was gowned in white charpeuse
and her hat was picture shape covered
| with black velvet. The leopard stole
was thrown over her shoulders in a
careless manner which recalled the au-
dacous mode of a Spanish bull fighter,
and at her waist she wore Il cluster Of
Gloire de Dion roses | have never for
| gotten the splendid effect of that cos
tune.
Some or the Paris dressmakers are
introducing imitation leopard skin on
their new modes. Personally, | hold
imitation fur in horror, but my horror
applies specially to leopard skin This
is a curious and unusual fur, which is
tonly possible In certain circumstances
It can look absolutely magnificent or II
can, on the other hand look coarse and
ugly Many of the new stoles recall
Ithose rather terrible fur mats which
| are to be seen in second rate boarding
houses. / mean the popular fiat stole
which Is spread out on an unexpected
lining and Is then laid fiat on the
shoulders, the stole being fastened by
hooks inserted in the paws of the
animal.
1t is undoubtedly true that some OF
these mat stoles' are effective On
the other hand many of them are ex-
iceedingly nartistic and even ugly Very
much more becoming are the long rather
wide stoles of supple fur. which can be
ldraped round the figure and in them
selves form a warm wrap. Lewis Of
Paris and Biarritz is making some ideal
stoles of this order Just now.
q Some of the more costly models are
made entirely OF ermine and lined with
rucked chiffon. Other stoes, less ex-
pensive but equally effective, are made
of chiffon velvet and bordered with
skunk, er1nine or even marabout. A
icharming model of this order was made
|of dark purple chiffon velvet and bor-
dered with skunk. The lining was shot
Igauze, which showed tints OF purple and
dull blue, and the stole was to be worn
f1chu fashion--it lay flat on the shoulders
land then the long ends were drawn back
lover the hips and fastened at the back
with a cut jet clasp. There was long
barrel muff to match the stole and the
lends we're tied in with lengths of black
satin ribbon finished off with heavy jet
Itassels.
High. straight neckties OF the tour
de cou" order are again very fashion
able for girls. These ties are charming
when made Of ermine and finished off
AT one side with couple OF heads and
q bunch of black tails. l have seen sim
liar ties made of skunk and fastened
with dark crimson rose and others
carried out in mink and dark brown
chiffon.
These small. straight ties look very
well when worn with long musquash or
astrakan coats. They make the throat
look long and slender and since, even In
the more costly furs. they are compare
lively inexpensive they are within the
reach OF all
Ermine combined with musquash or
breitschwanz Is very much to the front
this winter. In fact, all the black and
white effects are an absolute craze.
H.. l..