davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Decorah public opinion. (Decorah, Winneshiek County [Iowa]) 1895-1928, 1914-06-24

Some folks who are kicking
about the girls skirts being too
tight might improve their time by
looking the other way" suggests
the fashionable Waterloo Times
Tribune.
Decorah public opinion. (Decorah, Winneshiek County [Iowa]) 1895-1928, 1914-06-24
She Knew.

Auntie to her young niece-Guess
what l know, Mary-theres a little
brother upstairs! He came this NOR
ming when you were asleep.
Mary-Did he? Then / know who
brought hint was the milkman.
Auntie-What do you mean.
Mary-Why, / looked at the sign
on his cart yesterday and it said:
Families supplied daily.
Decorah public opinion. (Decorah, Winneshiek County [Iowa]) 1895-1928, 1914-06-24
$500.

mems suits, some of them in this
lot worth $500 Don't wait before
the best are picked. $3.50 for a
fine summer suit, actual value 90
per cent more than our price.
BEARS.
Decorah public opinion. (Decorah, Winneshiek County [Iowa]) 1895-1928, 1914-06-24

Pokeheimer has just had another
thrilling experience with dynamite.
He will tell US about it next week.
Decorah public opinion. (Decorah, Winneshiek County [Iowa]) 1895-1928, 1914-06-24

Mems mesh underwear Csc,
and boys union suits Csc. S. Lar
sen. 25-2
Decorah public opinion. (Decorah, Winneshiek County [Iowa]) 1895-1928, 1914-06-24

Our Want Column.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

utterly uncountable wheat crop was be-
ing harvested.
No. There are French fashions that
one freely admits We're not intended Tor
America. Fur In summer is one OF them.
But this continuous play of peltry on the
costumes may argue heavy fur season
for autumn, and it will be in keeping
with the 1880 fashions that prevail. The
women garnished themselves then win
odds and ends of fur. why not now:
Another fashion here is the double
neck-ruff which has also been taken un
in London under the name of the folly
ruche 1t consists of two pieces of pleat-
ed tulle, usually in the same color. but
there is no edict against two colors beng
used
These rufus also flowers. are used to
tighten the somber costumes of thousands
of women. Another method of giving a
high blue to dark blue or black gown.
instigated by the Grand PriX, is the use
of an Italian Gardiner cape with hrii-
liant lining Old gold. SAKE blue, revolu-
ton stripes. cerise and black stripping,
are the colors and designs employed.
These capes are swung well away from
the figure. usually being attached oy
wide bands of velvet that cross the busI
and disappear around the waist. Ana
they, like the pieces of fur. are not SUIT
able for the American summer unless
one is spending it far from the middle
states
The preponderance of blue serge now
has beguled the manufacturers to pro
vide quantities of it for the early fai
gowns, but will women's favor last thai
long? That question will be partailN
answered in two weeks, when the priv
legged few will be allowed at the open
ings. Americans always give their un
qualified sanction to this fabric in tins
color, and it is probable that the Amer,
can buyers will import many frocks ane
suits of it.
They will be glad to have no greater
problem presented to them. but many VII
demand a cut newer than anything ina
has vet appeared. over here they ar
PLAYING all the changes possible on IN
| fashions that We're gwen OUT III th
| swine and 80 many changes have beer
made from what the American is wear
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

n n ANY features Of the new fashions
M are taken from the period when
crinolines, polonaises, redlngote
effects and other quaint costumes We're in
vogue. The oriental influence is also
strongly evident in the popular Russian
tunic and the Cossack bodice. These long
tunics, from their cut and width. give
something of the appearance of crino-
line though made with very narrow
underskirts.
Long Jackets will be prominent In fall
suits Some Of the suits are made with
full-skirted coats in polonaise or
redingote style. some of which are loose
and easy fitting. Sometimes the waist
line is low. Cape effects are prominent
among outergarments. Some are very
simple, while others are elaborate and
voluminous. There will also be seen
many furs made up in cape form. Coats
made with capes are even more prom
inent In most instances the capes are
detachable. Smart motor coats are made
with the full backs Stimulating a cape
Some of the new coats are made in two
sections and joined together at the low
waist line, the joining being concealed
by wide belt usually made of the same
fabric.
There are dress styles to suit all fig
ures. Some of the waists are made IN
surplice style with broad, crossover ends
extending in sash effect across the back
at low waist line. The surplice idea is
also used In combination with a waist
coat design, the latter being worked out
by cutaway points which come below the
surplice straps. There are plain, darted
bodices for women with full bust develop
Won't 1Nhi
bust, but are Semi-litted in the back
There is a seam in the center back, one
on each side back and one under each
arm. The low or normal waist line pre-
walls. Never is the waistline above the
normal. Button fastening is used down
the entire front, and sashes are arranged
at the normal or low waist line.
The new styles require full-length
sleeves set in at the regular armhole,
fitting the arm snugly The hiSh-cut
shoulder, the high armhole and the nigh
set sleeve are very prominent in dress
waists and in blouses, and also in suit
coats This increases the long effect of
| the body and emphasizes the low waist
| line 1t gives a straight, round figure. the
BODY seeming to be as thick through
| from front to back as it is from side to
side Such a figure is naturally accom-
panied by long. close-fitting sleeve. The
| tendency toward simplicity and even
| severity in bodice and blouse is shown by
| the fact that lace and tulle dresses have
| skirts made in a succession of aounces
| with bodice and sleeves entirely of taft
| feta, and the sleeves are full length.
| Pleats are popular and are either used
| in tunics or in skirts Sometimes the
| pleats in a tunic are arranged in groups,
and sometimes applied to fiounces as well
1 as to the tune.
| The newest separate waists show little
of the blouse effect They are cut on tai
lored or semi-fitted lines with a smooth
| effect across the front This is not onl!
true of practical waists made of silk
cotton and linen, but also the more
; dressy styles of chiffon. organdy. batist'
| and lace. Only small proportion of TIN
fall waists are white. and the smartes
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
HOW TO BUY BARGAINS

one where shirt waists are offered at
remarkable reduction. and here she
makes purchases. She also buys some
reduced shoes for the children-although
the children are not with her-and two
or three ornaments which have been put
on a counter because they are slightly
worn she gets at about a quarter of their
original worth. She doesn't know what
she is going to do with them. but the
bargain is too good to be missed.
OF course that afternoon when her
purchases arrive from the department
store she opens them eagerly. She puts
the bed linen into the laundry at once,
because she is too careful housekeeper
to use it as it is, and a week or so later
when she takes it from the linen closet
she notices for the first time that the
sheets are too short for her beds and
the pillowcases too large. But it is too
late to change it, since IT mas peen
through the laundry.
In the meantime her husband has eX-
amined the shirts and has discovered that
they are two sizes too small-although
he admits that they were a rare bar
gain. When the shopper takes the shirts
back she finds that they are not ex-
changeable.
And the childdrn's shoes; those were
not the right size. either. though this
she did not discover till they had been
worn a day and had made blisters on
their heels.
The shirt waists she decided that she
did not need, and so she returned those
, and got a credit slip. The fancy orna-
ments that she bought she put away to
keep for the cooks Christmas present.
The wise bargain hunter is the woman
who makes a list of what she wants or
will want in the course of the season.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

aigrette and the paradise plume. What
a mission to accomplish! For rest as
sured. if Paris once drops this plumage
as the fashion. no other nation will traf-
fic in those feathers gained by torture
of the mother bird and her young. and.
after torture. death. in the name of man
greed and woman's indifference.
Satin has returned as notable factor
in millinery but there is no sign of taft
feta. Paris has dropped the latter ma
terial for gowns to large extent. al
though there are some lovely costumes
of it worn by well dressed women. The
department shops put out such quanti-
ties of cheap ready-to-wear gowns that
the exclusive dressmakers dislike to han
die them.
This fact makes little difference to
Americans. for they are not going to buy
new summer frocks this month with the
idea that they will last over until Ccto-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
evrHEN is a bargain not bargain
M and when is the bargain hunter
w u,. aoonornicalo There is prob

xv1HEN is a bargain not bargain
W and when is the bargain huneef
W really economical? There is prob
ably no institution of modern nlerchaii-
dising that is more unjustly mahgheo
tina nthe bargain, for if you make good
use of bargains they are source Oh
great economies.
The woman who suffers from bargains
is the woman who does not use them
wisely. She starts off to shop with
full purse and only a vague idea of what
she wants to buy. She wanders INTO a
large department store with the idea that
she will buy something if she happens to
see what she wants, and the first thing
that greets her eye is bargain table
the contents of which she cannot make
out because of the crowd OF women
eager to be waited on. On drawing into
the whirlpool she discovers that the goods
offered for sale are mems shirts reduced
more than 30 per cent. The shopper
cannot remember what size her husband
takes, but one of the statesmen at the
table looks about the same size, so she
asks him what size he wears and buys
half a dozen of the marvelously reduced
earments-and as soon as she has lett
the counter she regrets that she did not
buy more
She goes on until she sees bargain In
bed linen and knowing vaguely that she
needs more of this commodity, she buys
a quantity of bed sheets and pillow
cases. From that counter she goes to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
SMART NECKWEAR.

G MART neckwear every woman loves
- BY it's use endless opportunities are
offered for changing old frock into a
new one. All neck filings have the flare.
which is supported by thin wire or
starch Organdy is the most popular ma
terial. Fragile as it seems laundering
soon restores it to its original state of
loneliness.
High. rolling organdy collars continue
to be popular. Such collar with a thin
guimpe can be worn by any one. The
low, soft roll is very becoming to full
round neck, and a new finish for these or
CANDY soft collars is half-nch tie of
black net or tulle. with a long tassel of
bright colored beads. Some flared and
pointed organdy collars with fichulike
vestee of folds have finish inside of
fine embroidered edGing with turret
edge resting on the neck. A small point
ed collar has a fiat vense edging two
inches wide which follows the roll of the
collar. charging it to the usual size.
Cape effects in turnover collars are new.
Those of organdy are embroidered in
solid outline and eyelet work, while
piques have solid embroidery.
Guimpes in many cases have Il vestee
effect over the soft plastron guimpe
front if of embroidered pique, with a Cir
die belt to match. Guimpes in the
form of full scarfs of net Tapped in fchu
fashion have rolling collars of organdy.
Pque waistcoats have embroidery down
the front edges and on the high or low
pockets. Plain vestees have merely a
scalloped edge. very smart vest of
pique fastens with crochet buttons from
the high. round neck with two patch
pockets bound with braid.
directoire collar of handkerchief lin
en-. with long necktie. has ends ornament
ed with drawn work. A new high, wing
collar is finished with a double feather
stitched hem. 1t has narrow revers. out
lined with band of blue MORE ribbon.
terminating in bow. A vest made of
hand-embroidered pique, with high collar,
has piping of black MORE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

Der But if any woman must make this
kind of purchase let her buy satin for
ing on the fact that it is too warm TO
wear serge, for the latter is a fabric
for our autumns rather than our sum
mers.
And before the subject of millinery is
utterly abandoned. American women who
are looking about for smart new hats
that will carry them through the next
two months might like to know that pan
sizes. large and colorful, are in fashion.
They trim many kinds of hats. They are
made of satin in not only the regulation
yellow and purple but in kings blue. in
black and white and in cerise.
They are worn on the corsase as well
as on the hats. and precede roses as a
fashion. Each kind of flower is worn
grouped at the waist to give color to a
street or evening gown. or at the shout
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

ing now that it is possible we shall see
them repeated at the openings in winter
fabrics.
Poor Season for Straw Hats.
A straw hat on a smartly dressed
woman is a rare occurrence. | wonder
where went all those marvellous high
priced creations in straw that were
shown to us in March as the absolutism
for summer? Not only are hats made
of fabric now, which one could put down
to advance fall styles. but they have been
worn all season. Straw was tabooed as
early as June.
The milliners must have turned about
face since the Americans left here in
the spring. for then I saw only straw
hats at Georgette's. at Suzanne Talbott's
and at Reboux's; and yet these modistes
are showing fabric hats, and have been
| advising them ever since April. If you
ask them why, they answer that those
We're spring hats: these are summer hats
They tell the American individual, not
the professional buyer that there are
four seasons in fashions, and two of them
begin after the French woman starts
wearing new clothes for her social sea
son. These begin in December and June.
Velvet hats are the last word in style.
And they are preferably black. although
| one sees such contrasts as cerlse one
with a black chiffon rose lined with black
velvet Also the Georgette picture hat
of velvet is in high fashion It is almost
/ as large as the well known nuisance
| called .'the Merry Widow" Its trimming,
| when it has any, is one attenuated burnt
| ostrich.
| Which reminds me that ostrich feath-
/ ers are amazingly successful here II
| cannot be altogether because of the
| American prohibition of what Sir Arthur
4 no %
! of torture: the probability is that Queer
Mary of England has at last set fash
| ion.
Laugh at her ideas of dress as many
/ Americans have done. she may be re
sponsible for the non-usase OF ths
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

this fabric the summer fashion by wear
ing il
Worth is always nj his best when han
ding this material especially when he
can enhance il with quantities Of rhine
stones At the present moment he is
making gowns Of metallic hrocade with
TUNES OF beaded net. This beading craze
that has come 10 the great designers is
something new II developed recently
/ and now are in the fun swing Of it.
Brightly colored beads ara used also
thousands of white and black jct ones.
Some Of the dossns are American indian.
possibly suggested hy this Navajo cloth
that the wcaverS are making Other de-
signs are oriental. and all are expensive.
There were beaded chiffon tunes and
hlouSes for sal. here in February. but
no one would haze anything 10 do with
them. but mow-well. II you happen to
/ have one. use Il al once.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
FASHIONS AND FADS.

Extremely deep cuffs will be very
smart.
Outstanding ruff collars are more and
more liked.
Fall skirts are being made with clus-
tiers of pleats.
Entire skirts are occasionally made of
Roman stripes.
All-slk afternoon gowns are promised
for fall.
The velvet sash is a new and very
effective note.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

Long full tunics are seen over pleated
underskirts.
the novelties
Plumes and marabou are often seen in
headdresses.
Roman-striped ribbons remain in high
favor for girdles.
Combinations of broadcloth with satin
or MORE are seen.
Fur trimmings, 1t is said, will be in
good standing for fall.
Figured basques are seen worn with
plain black tunic skirts.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
To Mend Sheet Music.

Gut piece of manila paper. or, still
- better. cheesecloth, the size of the
sheet Of music. as you would for pic
ture mat. Paste this over the edges of
your worn sheet of music. and it will last
for years A strip up through the center
of the Joined pasA would strengthen
them still more. IVcheesecloth is used,
any tear may be mended, as the notes
will plainly show through cheesecloth,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
WEARING APPAREL FOR FALL

of these are of messaline or satin Most
models are in coors, the most popular
of these being yellow. flesh. tangerine
light shades of green. tan and rose. To
sum up, the leading features of the new
waists are the fancy collars, which fit
to the neck in the back and open in the
front, the long light sleeves set in at the
regular armhole. the front button fasten-
ing, the tailored cuffs. and the fancy
buttons
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

Little capes suit almost every type OF
woman, provided only she is slender.
Blues and yellows in unusual tones are
a favorite color combination.
Plain tailored skirts, sometimes bound
with braid, taking fairly well.
Nevets trimmed with fur being
worn even in the hot season in July
The double-panel petticoats a real
necessity in these days of thin skirts.
At the present .-.ient the charm OF
the costume depeI n the little things.
White organdie 40 everywhere-in col
lars and blouses and girls white dresses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02

Velvet millinery will surely have a
great vogue this autumn.
Cavalier capes are being made now
adays for quite little girls.
A hat shaped like a jockey cap is the
latest whm in millinery.
There seems to be a decided return to
long simple lines in dress.
White silk serge is used for tennis
costumes by very chic women.
White gloves are now pretty generally
worn with black costumes.
Piuue is more used than any other
material for collars and waistcoats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
Colored Brocades Quite the Fashion

Worth is glad that brocades are a@ain
i'll fashion, and the Americans who won
dered why Cabot showed 50 many gown
of this fabric had their answer in June.
She was six months in advance. Is one
answer. and another is that the French
and English followed her lead and made
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
Special Correspondence of Tie Star.

Special Correspondence of Tie Star.
PARIS, July -. 1915
%~D ]HAT with the Grand PriX in
Deauvilie only two weeks off
NAk the chilly weather continuing.
:" the town full of Americans
who say when you them
that they are merely passing through
tand go on saving it every time YOU en-
counter them for 4 week.; with all dress
makers behind closed doors cogitating on
new and thrilling things to show the
horde of American buyers who are al
ready arriving for the openings that be
gin in ten days: with all this stir, there
is much to see and talk about
True, the smart people of Europe espe
cially of Paris. who feel it incumbent
upon them to follow the circus procession
of fashion from sea pillar TO mountain
post are out of town. theoretically speak
ing.
Some Americans are sightseeing in other
cities. getting up at sunrise to see some
especial spot at its most romantic mo-
ment, or YEARLY trudgins through miles
of picture galleries
And the more travelled Americans are
making believe that Dinard is really nicer
than Bar Harbor, that Ostend is more
amusing than Atlantic City. that Deau-
vile is much smarter than Newport.
Between these two branches of the
american army of invasion there are the
familiar faces one sees in Paris season
in and season out, hailing from many
different points of the huge American
continent.
The exasperating condition of the bar
ricaded streets, which were thrown into
eonvulsion by the torrential rain that
discovered to the populace the danger
existing in their honey combed streets. or
the catacombed streets, if one would
speak truly. gives many Americans a
fine chance to talk about the growing
supremacy of Berlin as summer city
resort but one notices that these same
laudators of the beauty of the pol1Ced
German capital remain right here &c
dance, to dine, to loiter in the Ritz grill
room and talk American psychological
depression.
Social Distinctions Among Ameri-
cans.
1t is amusing to hear the different sets
of incoming Americans talk of what they
do and what they don't do.
The socially inclined person. for in
stance, who knows Paris as well as Lon
don, yawns with amusement at the idea
of going to the Louvre or the LuNefn-
bourg to get the view from the Sacre
Occur. TO have breakfast on the terrace
OF st Germain TO see the MuSee tarna-
valet, or the Place des Eosces, or even to
hear mass at the Madeleine.
And these habitues DO more than smile
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02
How the Fashions Stand.

But this is fashion story, isn't IT,
Clothes. not social distinctions, is the Cd
iect If the tale Queer frocks not queer
human opinion and actions. are the things
to be described And so to the work.
Ever since the Grand PriX, which was
called the BLACK Grand Prix because OF
the nsistence Of the women in uniforms
Of blue serge. there is an epidemic OF
black and midnight blue. as though every
one was in mourning for the spring that
died still-born. There are large pieces of
fur in the shape of bands on nantes
crowns on hats. edges to organize frocks.
collars to silk coates: all evidences OF
the cold and disagreeable season that has
prevailed since last January.
They have made peltry the fashion this
summer which is the name given to sad
and dripping days which have been di-
vided into sections by torrents and flick
ers of snow. No reason. however. for
the American to take up the fashion.
Imagine collar of ermine under the
stewing sun when the most phenomenal.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-02


BaEF Ii.
AMERICAN WOMAN.
TRIMMED INTO oUIIIs