davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

Close the sea ms of the sleeves. Join
the ends of the cuffs and line them.
Arrange over the sleeves with the
large perforations at the seams and
the notches meeting. Cut bias strips
one inch in width and undertake..
Place the sleeves in the armholes with
the notches exactly meeting and the
single large perforations at the Shout
der seams of the basque. Basic care
fully and stitch, using the marked
outline as guide.
Close either with buttons and but
ton-holes or with buttons used for
ornament only and snap fastenings.
For the complete garment will be
needed rs yards of material A inches
wide and rs yards of lining SO inches
wide
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

the mystic name of imported really
have seen other shores. If we can
bring ourselves to realization of the
need of pride in what our own country
can produce and can overcome the
idea that foreign must necessarily be
translated good, we shall have achieved
a really great result.
At the moment, we are confronted
with exceptional variety. There is
perhaps no feature of the last few
years more conspicuous than the
rapidity with which fashions change.
Only few weeks ago, the long tunic
reigned supreme. Today while it is
fashionable and will be throughout the
winter, we are seeing a great many
circular skirts and extremely wide
skirts of full length. A great many of
the handsomest evening gowns ex-
plotted are draped closely to suggest
the outline of the figure yet, side by
side with such models, there are to be
seen those made in the Moyen Age
style. with loose tunic faring gener-
ously at the lower edge and with abso-
lutely not suggestion of waist or hip
line. Flounced skirts in generous
numbers are to be worn and plated
and shirred skirts are seen. Altogether
it seems simple matter to choose a
stvIe that suits oneself and to be we'll
dressed in the truest sense of the word.
Merely copying any given style never
can make really we'll dressed COM
munity. Not until we learn the art
of adaptation and individuality shall
we be able to make any real claim to
distinction This present season affords
marvellous opportunity for achieving
that result
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15
PROBLEMS IN DRESSMAkING
By MAY MANTON

Then gather both the fronts and the
back on the under-arm and front edges
between the double crosses and ar
range each portion of the basque over
the corresponding portion of the
lining with the shoulder edges exactly
meeting. Basic on the marked outline
and try the garment on the wearer. 1t
should not be tight, nevertheless one
figure may require the under-arm
seams to be taken up little more than
another and it is just at this point
that any necessary changes must be
made. When the basque is adjusted.
stitch the seams.
Next slash each under-arm seam
three-quarters of an inch above and
three-quarters of an inch below the
waistline to allow spring for the figure
and curve the edges of these slashes
Bind each edge of the seams separately
with thin silk binding, taking in the
material of the basque and the ma
terial of the lining in each case. Press
the seams open and fat
To finish the front and back edges
with cords, as illustrated, cut bias strips
of material one inch in width and fold
at the center over a cord, basting the
two edges together within the cord
then haste over the edges of the basque
with the folded edges of the silk meet
ing the edges of the basque Cut
straight undertakings one inch in
width and the length of the basque
and arrange one of these over each
front. Basic and stitch together close
to the cord. Turn the facing under
the basque, and fell the edges to the
lining only.
Stitch the lining and the outside Of
the collar together with the right sides
meeting, turn on the seam, haste and
press. Arrange over the basque with
the right side uppermost, the center
back exactly meeting the center back Of
the basque; roll the collar down and
stitch the lining to the edge of the
back on the marked outline. Fell the
edge of the collar over the seam; then
roll the collar back OIL the perforations
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

IN the diagram laid out on material
tnirty-six inches wide. Whether this
material shall be silk or mercerized cot
ton must depend entirely upon the
material from which the gown is to be
made. The basque itself can be of any
material soft enough to be made full.
For autumn and winter, charmeuse and
other satins of the sort will be greatly
worn. In the diagram, the basque is
shown laid on such material forty-four
inches wide. The dotted lines that in
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15
FADS and FANCIES of FASHION
THE LAST WORD IN STYLE FROM THE
FASHION CENTERS

soil, there is evidence of somewhat
too much of tendency toward
economy in matters of purchase
whereas the real problem is how best
to encourage industries, how to keep
the people employed and by the cir
culation of money to avoid any wide
spread distress. While it is always
little more interesting and a little
easier to contribute to philanthropy
that appeals keenly to ones sympa-
thies. to go steadily on expanding the
allotted income in the usual ways
which tend to keep all the industries
ahoat is really the wiser course and the
one which ultimately must do the
most good.
1t did not need the war to induce
English women to buy English pro-
ducts to great extent and whenever
an industrial need necessitated to band
themselves together to that end. If
this first inconvenience that we are
forced from the curtailing of the usual
generous supply of imports brings
about a realization of our own needs
and induces us to follow their excellent
example, it will have benefited this
country to very great extent
1t is an open secret that by no
----- -. r 49, =>e..-ials gold under
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15
LATE FALL MODEL S - By MAY N1ANTON !

quite an unusual effect produced by
color combination. Brown is pro-
nounced favorite this season. One of
the smartest of the French models
combines brown cheviot with old blue
broadcloth. Any one of these cos
TUNES could be treated in the
same way or could be made of
any other two colors that make
a good effect. Roman stripes too
are wonderfully beautiful with plain
colors. A skirt of striped material with
both over-garment and sleeves made
from a plain colored serge or a plain
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

IN spite of all the disturbing infu-
ences. there is no dearth of inn
ported models evident here in
New York, We have been having a
great many openings and while per-
haps the displays may have been
curtailed to some extent. there is
sufficient offering to make this season
an established one whatever the future
may hold
Again there is a very general effort
being made to seize upon the present
opportunity for development of home
talent. Before many weeks, there
will be held under the auspices of
society leaders an exhibition of COS
TUNES designed exclusively by Amer
lean makers and, on every side, one
hears the discussion of ways and means
to develop home talent and home
manufactures; so that altogether this
is a most interesting time from many
points of view On the one hand, we
have all the designs that we need for
immediate use and, on the other we
are looking forward to development
from which much is to be hoped
Whenever depression of any sort
occurs, the first instinct is that of re-
trenchment and, not in the suffering
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15
THE TUNIC MAKES THE
FEATURE OF THE SEASON
THREE COSTUMES WHICH SHOW EACH A
DIFFERENT VARIATION.

generally used. this is a season of
infinite variety in fabrics as we'll as
in styles and it is easy to produce indi-
vidual effects and to bring about COM
binations that are unusual and dis
tinctive if only one will give little
thought to the question and select
warily and well.
Among the new wool fabrics are
shown those with an exceedingly
lustrous, sil<like surface and among
the new silks are great many of dull
finish, as poplins and the like. The
fancy materials include stripes without
number and great many broche and
brocaded effects. With all that oppor-
tunity spread before the shopper, it
should be easy to make a wise choice.
Everything that has a crepe finish is
fashionable too and crepe is wonder
fully beautiful with velvet and with
satin and also with the faiIle silk that
is so noticeably fashionable. Faille
too is beautiful with velvet and with
charmeuse and there are fabrics that
combine silk with wool that takes
ideally beautiful lines and folds vet
are of somewhat less weight than
broadcloth or serge, so that there is
no lack of opportunity offered.
Perhaps the greater number of COS
tunes are made of two materials in
the same color, the contrast being
found in the difference of surfaces
alone but, now and again, one sees
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

" WITHOUT question, the tunic
w IS one of the most, if not the
most important feature of
the season 1t takes a great many
forms but the three that are shown
here are the prevailing ones and,
since they give quite different lines.
they Immediately suggest the question
of selection. The straight round tunic.
pretty as it is, must always cut the
height somewhat The open and
cutaway tunics provide straight lines
at the front and are less likely to inter
fere with an appearance of height and
this fact should be borne in mind by
every woman when selecting a gown
1t has been truly said that the line
of the gown is the thing that deter
mines its beauty, its becomingness
and its style. Upon whether one may
choose the right or the wrong sort will
depend the success of the costume and
1t Is only to study the effect before
m1ror to come to that conclusion.
Whatever the style of the tunic, how
ever, to be at its best, it must fare
and It must be worn over a narrow
skirt and the combination affords
bel-'oSt hnitiess opportunity for the
use Of contrasting material. Without
caUdl Il may be said that serge.
gabardine and broadcloth in combina-
ton with charmeuse satin and with
velvet are favorite materials but.
while they'are very beautiful and very
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

The new velvets are most beautiful,
lustrous yet soft and plaiable as crepe
itself, and they are exquisite in COM
bination either with silk or with wool.
Two of these costumes are designed
for young girls and for small women
and each gives a hint of the Moyen
Age influence that is so much felt just
now. Since almost all girls are slender.
such garments suit them to perfection
and they seem especially well adapted
to college girls needs. for they are ex-
tremely easy to make and extremely
easy to adjust, requiring very little
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

The scalIoped edges are to be rsa5s
and button-holed. The dot "r.
the scallops can be worked solidIEl' .
eyelets. The leaves, daisies and .
that make the sprays can all be WORSE
solidly, or the leaves can be ~5.a'
solidly with the daisies and dot .
eyelets, or the entire design can "
made in eyelet work. The stems ar. .
be outlined. The belt is 10 be made .
beading.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

THE basque Is an important fea-
tnre Of autumn fashions. This
one Is designed for young girls
and for small women, but it is good
example of the model at its best and
the directions given for its making can
be applied in a general way to all
basque models
The first real innovation in garments
Of this sort Is found in the lining. in
this case 1t consists of two pieces front
and back, and you will find it shown
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

colored silk
make beauti-
full effect
and, while
contra sting
sleeves are
smart. they
are not I'M
iversal, so
that e a ch
" ma n Is
free to suit
h eT 0 w n
needs and
her own
figure
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

Trimmings this season are very
beautiful and very varied. Not alone
are the ready-made trimmings offered
n interesting variety, braid and NgEd
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

In the matter of the tunic alone.
there is much to be considered. We
have the round tunics, the cutawav
tunics, the TUNES that are closed
and the tunics that are open, the
tunics that take circular lines and the
tunics that take straight lines. Among
them all, there is some one style that
is adapted to almost every figure but
the style must be selected with intel
hgence and care, not haphazard and
because it looks well upon some one
else. As rule, the open tunic with
its long straight lines or the cutawav
tunic with its lengtheniug lines toward
the back is the one to be preferred for
the woman who requires an effect of
height. A straight round line is apt
to shorten the figure yet not infre-
quently one sees tall woman wearing
an open tunic and her short sister
round, close one finished with an extra
band of trimming to give two shorten
ing lines instead of one. What we
need is to learn to observe truly and
really, to study ourselves and to
understand our needs. If we lack
the instinct for such details which is
said to be one of the French wonan's
most valuable assets, we can cultivate
it to a great extent at least
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

Band trimmings are being very
generally used. We see net tunics
banded with velvet ribbon to inten-
sify the fare. We see silk tunics
banded with fur. We see wide bands
and narrow bands, single bands and
rows of bands. While often they are
becoming in effect, they are by no
means becoming to each and all. To
use them without discretion and with
out discrimination assuredly is to be
unwise.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15
HINTS FOR THE HOME
NEEDLE WOMAN
How to Embroider a Fancv S..

for enbroiderirg a..
apron, including the ouf.w
the apron.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-10-15

rlso are applied over stamped design
10 give very rich effects and embro'5
cries are handled in a really wondcrI
way. All that is needed is consider
ton of the opportunity offered an
wisdom to select warily and well T.
has been stated again and again that
it is to be a brilliant season and unique
tionably evening costumes show
great deal Of metal embroiderie- and
very generous use of material wygrr
with gold and with silver thread ~.
they produce most marvellous effects
Not infrequently, chiffon and o'het
thin stuffs are finished with embra,ier,
that at the first glance they -oe
hardly heavy enough to support v''
the metal threads are really -o rgt
Of weight that neither the metal om
broideries nor the metal woven ma
terials are heavy in fact wh1sy'.
they may be in appearance
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
Los candidates

FL lines Sc reunieron los membros
del Comit6 Republicano de Mayagjiez
para acordar los ternas para varios
puestos p6bIicos, pues existe el PROPOSE
to de zanzibar la mayorfa de los emplea
dos municipales, sean no efcientes
Fueron aprobadas las siguientes ter
mas: para Secretario Municipal, Fran
cisco Azuar, Lcdo. Rodolfo Ramirez vi
90 Lcdo Eugenio G9igel para Conta-
dor, Eugenio Lecompte Eduardo Ko
pish y Rafael \. Maranjes para Tesore
TO, Bias Ramirez, Ricardo A. Menende2
y r. A. Maranjes
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
$1.073.3G $4,000


cue hacc IN total nuestro favor lie
Noyecientos Cincuenta Y Tres Dollars
y Treinta y Seis Centavos (&953.36l
Que Sc hallan depositados Ell cl Banco
Territorial y Agricola de Puerto Rico
Como Sc We, en- esta suma no est3n in
cluidos los intereses devengados.
Casi todos los gastos de viaje han
>jdo costeados del peculio particular
de los miembros de Ia COMISION. Y
on algmas orasioneS los Sres Herman
dez Lopez y dc Diego han cedido ge-
Eerosamente sus automobiles La par
tida de egreso O. constituye un obse-
quio que la COMISION entendi6 su
deber hacer a una pequena artista de
nueve amos que Ell casi todas las vela-
das nos ha acompanado muy gustosa :
la marcada % envueIve eXcIusiva-
mente gastos de viaie, Y, la marcada
(3) cubre la impression dc la poesia
Patria que cost6 $4,000 S2400 que
,ueron gastad0S en- la installation del
Fuesto alberto en- la Feria nsuar y
que snVieron distingudisimas damas
&c San Juan 'ncluyendo obra de ma
no, maderas, instalaciones consume
de luz electrical
La COMISION BRAlr. contando co
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
Los juguetes para los nihos pobres

La distinguida sonora de Rodriguez
Sierra, que preside la cOmisi6n organ'
zadora del reparto de juguetes a los nj
nos pobres nos ha pedido que secunde,
mos el empeno de sus companeras de
comisi6n excitando cuantas personals
puedan contribuir al fondo para adqui-
rir iugueteS que los den va comprados,
a la comisi6n que ha de repartirlos
Esta. como va hemos dicho, esta com
puesta por um grupo encantador de gen,
tiles damas presididas por la bella seno-
ra de Rodriguez Sierra
Ell reparto de juguetes ha de hacerse
este aiio EN- la Escuela de San Juan nd-
nero uno. Hay ALI un amplio espacio
al aire lbre que puede prestarse meJor
que el teatro Sc prestara a la realization
del acto en- que Sc reheja la ternura de
nuestras mujeres
Que vale el alma de la mujer. sn6
hay en- su alma otra alma de madre =
ha dicho BenaVente.
Tn alma de madre es la que palpita
en- este empcno de las mobiles damas que
organizan la fiesta todos los amos, alma
de madrc que brinda eI supreme blen
dc una Garcia las fragiles criaturas
desvalidas; alma de madre es esta alma
que piensa en- que los ninos pobres no
han de vivir solo del POGO de pan que Ell
nuestra hartura les demos, sino que han
de tener tambi&n la efimera Illusion de
un iuguete.
Para que ninguno lie falte, es necesa
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
Conato de fuego

a las tres de la madrugada de hoy hui
bo un conato de incendio en- la casa MI
nero Il de la calle San Agustin. debido
a haberse incendiado dos sacos de car
bon que habia en- la cocina de la palte
de dicha casa en- que tiene establecida
una fonda Vicente Diaz
Los empleados de la fonda Higinio
Briy6n, Francisco Colon y Jose Maldo.
nado Sc dieron cuenta del fuego oportu
namente y pudieron sofocarlo sin que
hubiese que lamentar otra perdida que
un pequeno pedazo de una pared que da
a la cocina, que Sc quem6.
Fl cabo Esteban Rodriguez y el guar
dia Raimundo Pepin, investigator el
asunto, llegando la conclusion de que
el incendio fue completamente casual.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
I'm hombTe ahogado

as cuatro de la tarde de aver, ell
guardia Eduardo Rosado tuvo noticias
de que EN- ell mar, detras del cementerio.
habiase encontrado e cadaver de un
hombre. Ell guardia Sc cercior6 del ha
llazgo y di6 cuenta 4 las autoridades.
acudiendo al sitio indicado ell juez NUM-
cipal senior G6igeI su secretario senior
Lopez de Zarate, quienes hicieron las
investigaciones debidas
FL cadaver result6 ser Manuel Villa
nueva, conocido por Siete pelitos
hombre de cuarenta y cinco amos de
edad muy conocido por los elementos
populares, que lie estimaban mucho.
Fillanueva padec1a de ciertos ataques
que le priyaban del conocimiento. Aver
tarde Sc fu6 banar al mar. parece
que le sobrevino uno de es0s ataques.
que lie priv6 de toda defensa. perecien.
do ahOgado
Las autoridades judicales estuvieron
en- eI domiciIio de Villanueva Ell San
Sebastian 10, encontrando en- un rope
ro de aquel una caja conteniendo veinti-
tres d0lares Y varias prendas de orc '
plata
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
Por los ninos pobres

Una comis6n de damas de Bayam6n
Sc ha tornado la iniciativa para recaudar
fondos con el objeto de comprar jugue-
tes para donarlos los ninos pobres ell
dia seis de Enero pr6Ximo
Las altruistas damas que tan noble
prop6sito perslguen, han consegudo del
dueno del ''Teatro Variedades -, de di-
cha ciudad, que generosamente 10 cedl
para una serie de funciones cinemato
gradcos que empezara mahana jueves V
terminara eli cuatro de Enero Ahora
la comisi6n esta buscando de los que
aqui Sc dedican al alquiler de peliculas,
que les faciliten algunas gratuitamente
para la buena obra.
Y seguramente que han de lograr el
kxito que Sc merecen las damas que lle-
van 4 cabo tan plausible empeho,
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
En- ell Casino Espanol
Ell. BALE DE ANOCHE.

Animation. elegancia, belleza, esplen
didez. cuanto puede fOrmar mn conJunto
magnifco, sc reunio anoche en los salo'
nes del casino Espanol'
FL bale TRADITIONAL del de Diciem-
bre qued6. como todos los amos. esplen
dido.
81 fuGsemos a citar nombres. nuestra
lista seria interminable, Y despu6s de
todo no hariamos mas que repetir los
que llenan de continue la cr6nica social,
pordue anoche. en- ell Casino, Sc reuni0 10
mas brillante de nueStrO mundo distin-
guido
FL Honorable Gobernador TraviesO y
su gentlisima esposa permanecieron en-
ell Casino casi todo ell tempo que dur5
la fiesta, siendo mry obsequiados.
Lo mas distinguido de la Colonia
Americana, tambien presto su concurso
al esplendido acto social Gle anoche
FL buffet" fu6 servido en- la terraza.
La orquesta del Maestro Verar ejecu-
to un programa que gust6 mucho.
Todos los detalles cooperaron el bello
conjunto que ha sido uno de los mayores
exitos sociales del Casino Espanol
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09

ria la cooperation de todos. Y no ha de
faltar este ano, como en- los anteriores
no falt0 Hay sin duda algtn agota-
miento del p1blico que contribuye STEM
pre- a estas cosas; hubo antes de esta
varlas suscripciones que han tenido un
relative buen eXito. Pero esta es la mas
pequena, la que menos sacrificios de
manda, la que tiene una mas intima fl
nalidad, y para ella no han de faltar do
nativOS.
PequenoS; no importa la cuant1a En-
estoS caSOs la collaboration de tOdos pue-
de suplir la falta de donativos mayores.
Pero sObre que no es Justo que sean
siempre las mismas personals las que ha-
van de contribuir toda cuestaci0n. Sc
ria hermoso que tOdos los que pueden
hacer el pequeno desembOlso de comprar
un juguete. uno solo, 10 enviase la
presidenta del Comit6 de Damas.
Muchos son los ninos pobres de San
Juan, los verdaderamente pobres pero
los dOnanteS pueden ser mas.
Amque la cosa parezca un POGO fri
voIa. no 10 eS tanto 81 el aSunto Sc ANAL
"a con atsbos de psic6logo
Por sentimiento 8 por conveniencia
nos intcresa 4 todos colaborar en- eStas
obras en- que triunfa un alto espiritu de
temura Y de amor tlnica fuente en- que
las ansiedades eternas de las multitudes
han poddo mitigar, a ratios, su sed tOrtu
radora, Sed de tantaS cosas que no logra
mos tcner Ell la vida.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1914-12-09
ConferenCias en- la
Biblioteca Insular

FL domingo de esta semana dara su
interesante Conferencia de gran impor-
tancia cient1fca, social y humanitaria eI
reputado oculista hombre de letras
doctor don Rafael del Vale Tratara
de la oftalmia purulenta en- los ninos,
sus peligros el medic de evitar Ell
tempo la gran desgracia de la ceguera,
originada por esa enfe1medad
Tendra esta conferencia una impor-
tancia especial para las madres y demas
personas encargadas de los cuidados dc
la infancia