davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09
LONG. TUNICS AND BASQUE
EFFECTS, THE TWO GREAT
EST SENSATIONS OF THE
SEASON
Opinions Differ as What Form They VIII Take in the
Autumn
BY MAY MANTON

The first basques were cut to extend
to Of below the hips and great many
still are made in that way but the very
newest models show q somewhat
shorter length and are perhaps little
prettier and less severe. The fullness
or rucked effect at the sides IL arranged
to give a girdle suggestion. too, and,
in spite of the fact that the basque Is
comparatively a new garment, it has
already taken on a great many inter
esting forms,
At the first reading of velvet worn
at the French races, we were a little
impressed with the incongruity Of the
material in warm weather but our own
season has been such a cool one that
velvet capes and some velvet basques
are being seen on this side Of the sea.
A handsome costume that exploits the
idea, and incidentally certain other
new features, consists Of a skirt Of
white taffeta hounced with white net
and a basque the upper portion Of
which is of black velvet, the lower
fuller portion Of black satin. The
satin portion gives quite the effect
of a draped corselet or girdle and the
sleeves are very pretty ones, long but
with the lower satin portions drawn up
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

TRULY Il Is something Of an limo
walton to bring out new fashions
In the late summer but this year
has recognized no precedent. has estab-
Rshed its own laws and this month Of
August has brought US extremely
attractive models. charming gowns
and smart costumes that viii be avail
able not for the present alone but also
through the early autuma- Basques,
TUNES and capes In their many varie-
ties take an important place among
the novelties and in the picture are
shown excellent examples Of them all.
The gown at the center made Of
striped tafeta IL both new and replete
with interest. The long tunic and
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

circular shaping give exceptionally
graceful lines and the pretty full bodies
with collar and cuffs Of white silk
sounds an entirely new note.
At the left Is shown one Of the cape
coats and with it still another varia-
ton Of the tunic with a narrow skirt
beneath. It would be handsome de.
veloped in almost any seasonable ma
terial but the one illustrated combines
q skirt of charmeuse satin with tunic
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09
FASHIONABLE COLLARS ARE
DISTINCTIVE IN STYLE AND CUT

the latest variation Of the sailor model
All three collars stand away from the
neck, that being an all-important
feature Of summer styles.
No. or No. 3 will require u yd..
No. q yd. AZ or SO in wide with ~
yds. Of braid for No J.
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

IT has been well and truly said that
the accessories often make or mar
the costume and this season the
statement might almost be narrowed
down to collars. Collars are exceed
ingly important. They fill really big
place in fashionable dress and new
ones are in every way distinctive in
style and cut. In the picture are three
good styles. The one on the figure is
made after the Normandy fashion with
big points and. as shown here. it Is
made Of organdie lined with itself, that
being a favorite material for collars
this season. II a daintier effect is
wanted, a little embroidery can be
used on the points but the plain
stitched edges are smart. Collar No.
shows the new pointed back weighted
with a tassel and collar No. 3 makes
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

being pretty and becoming and Of
allowing the hair to be loosely coiled
and to take a rest. These models are
among the newest. They are exceed
ingly smart and becoming yet arc
perfectly simple. The one to the left
Of the picture is finished. with a grad
uated frill at the back of the neck and,
as shown here. the crown portion is
made Of alternate strips Of lace inser-
ton and ribbon but it can be cut
from all-over lace. net or any similar
material. The double frill that finishes
the front edge and the coquettish bow
Of ribbon make an attractive finish.
The palmer round cap is made with a
smooth crown and shirred portions
attached to it: There is a casing in
which the ribbon is inserted to draw
the cap up closely about the head
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS.
s373 Loose Coat, Small 81 or IS. Me-
dunn SO or 40, Large ~ or - bust.
s225 Ladies Skirt, ~ to 80 waist.
s7I6 Fancy Blouse, 81 to ~ bust
s3I2 Two-Piece Skirt. ~ to q waist.
s3Io Plain Blouse, "a to - bust.
s7o7A Two-Piece Skirt. a. to q waist.
sIs7 Evening Coat for Misses and
Small Women, Is and Is yearH
1921 Two or Three-Piece Skirt for
Misses and Small Women. u. rs and
rs years.
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

showing a flower design. 1t is charm
ingly summerlike in effect and is
trimmed with ribbon frills.
NNE Of the pronounced features
of the season is the use Of
contrasting materials or colors
in a gown and here are two designs
that illustrate that point in quite diff
ferent ways.
The gown, illustrated on Figure =,
shows a combination Of plain material
with Roman striped The plain color
is soft tan and the grou6d of striped
fabric matches it perfectly. The blouse
is gathered and joined to plain vest
portion. This vest is rolled over to
form a collar and a second collar is
arranged over the first. The sleeves
are joined to the blouse at the long
shoulder line. The skirt is in two
pieces with straight gathered flounce
arranged over it at yoke depth.
The next gown shows a very beauti-
full shade Of blue crepe de chine COM
bined with black satin. The blouse Is
a simple one, the fronts are faced and
turned back to form the revers and
the plated collar is attached to the
upper edges Of the revers and the
neck edge. The skirt is cut in two
pieces. In this case, it is made with
a shaped tunic and insets at the seams.
These are both fashionable features
but may be omitted if a plain skirt is
preferred.
THE. dance has been made such an
important feature during the
summer that suitable gowns
and suitable wraps are quite certain
to be needed at this season. This last
coat is one Of the prettiest and most
graceful that could be suggested. II
gives something Of a cape effect, yet
it rs made with raglan sleeves. 1t is
easy to slip on and of and it is ex,
tremely pretty and becoming. As
shown here, it is made of MORE silk in
a pale shade Of yellow with black
velvet collar but it could be copied
in light colored broadcloth, in char
meuse satin or in golhne or in any
material suitable for a wrap and soft
enough to take graceful folds. The
wide frill makes most effective finish
but it is not necessary for the plain
edges also are smart and the sugges-
ton in the back view is good one.
The skirt is just a plain two-piece
one with deep 6ounce of lace arranged
over it and the material Of the skirt is
crepe de chine while the lace is the
pretty dainty shadow sort which is
especially youthful in effect.
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09
SMART AND DAINTY CAPS ARE BOTH
PRETTY AND BECOMING

@APS to be worn in the privacy
I of the home during the morning
hours have become an estab-
ished feature of fashionable dress.
They serve the double purpose Of
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

over the velvet tops In a way that
always Il effective. The neck shaping.
too, l. important. for the basque Is
V-shaped at the front but with a
straight military collar at the back
above which rises soft frill' Of net
that makes a very pretty and be-
coming finish.
Fancy skirts Of one sort or another
are the universal ones with basques,
for all students of fashions know
that plain bodies and fancy skirts
will always go hand in hand. Lace,
tulle, light colored silks, all material
OF the kind are used for skirts with
tafeta, velvet and charmeuse satin
for basques.
One Of the most recent ofthe basques
is in hmono style with V-shaped neck
and the only ornaments are the hand
some buttons that effect the closing.
As seen at a recent fashionable gath
ering, it was made Of black charmeuse
satin with long tunic of white lace
over a skirt of satin, the tunic being
open for few inches at each side and
finished with a little ball fringe that
weighted it successfully. Already it
will be seen that the everity of the
set-in sleeves has been modified and
the kimono basque is one Of the very
latest Developments.
The idea too is being applied to
summer material with good results and
the handsome brocaded and striped
ratines seem peculiarly well adapted
to its use. As pretty a costume Of the
simpler all-white sort as the season
has brought forth combines white
ratine showing a brocaded stripe with
plain white wolfe. II consists Of a
skirt Of the wolfe faced to the depth
Of the tunic with the ratink and long
tunic Of plain material accordion
plated. while the basque is Of the
heavier ratin& with sleeves Of the
wolfe and there is a wide sash Of white
satin draped over the lower edge.
The Washington herald., 1914-08-09

THERE is something exceedingly
graceful and attractive about
the simple faring coats that
are so fashionable this summer. The
one to the left is made from soft silk
showing flower design. 1t is charm
ingly summerlike in effect and Is
trimmed with ribbon friIls.
Evening journal., 1914-05-29

sengeru aided TO Quer the tumult and.
though the big vessel sank IA ten
minutes. several liIebosts were got
into the water. Details OF the scenes
which came as the efforts TO save
were made had not been received here
up to noon. Il was believed. hove
ever, that Captain Kendall. Of the
EMPRESS, was one o. the last TO leave
his ship. He was reported to have
been picked up from wreckage after
the government SHIPS arrived.
Information gathered by wireless
from Father Point aud from Rimousli
says that when the Eureka and Lady
Evelyn arrived ot the spot where the
Empress went down. they gathered up
a number OF survivors from nine life.
boats. These survivors were mt once
rushed to Rhnouski, whence they viii
be brought by special train this after
noon TO Quebec
With her bows stove in by impact
with the Empress. the storstad passed
Father Point uprher, shortly after
daylight. She had ON board some survi-
vors and some dead but wireless
from her failed TO say how many The
storstad was low by the head. The
tug strathcona was sent TO her assist
ance She will arrive here tonight or
tomorrow.
Not word OF positive information
had been received here at noon as TO
the rescued or their identity Whether
'womon and children first prevailed at
the wreck is as yet unknown. Stories
OF individual experiences in the disaster
win not be told until the survivors
reach here, and until a close scrutiny is
made OF the ships passenger list and
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
Canadian Pacific Steamer Carrying 1900 Passen-
gers and Crew Sinks Ten Minutes After Crash
Captain Among Last TO Desert Ship, Saved After
S. 0. S. Call Brings Rescue Ships--Fog and Sud-
dennesS All Lend HoHortO Accjdenf Which Came
As Startling As Titanic Disaster

QUEBEC o rean
o dnsefo
o al from ohm
a uareulh checking Of off,
reliable al
a fgme
down in ten aft cOs Norwegian Sosad bound
o damaged She
as
o e directly the crash a this kmOr
a 10 ne res ed N Captain Kendall
a Kendall
p HflOat sur
Me N crew wer aboard o ireland the ecuh
Amym o the h an mtruadon
Cnfee n
OF disaster a a
o o. S. mme
y o an b eSn mail
Point al 10
o ayed by the Canadian
o
G. Kendall
the and
there pOtab thar
O n steamer, fee gwth
oden quipmen system
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
LONDON awaits
news OF HORROR
BY Tho United Press.

BY The United Press.
LONDON. May 29.-The Offices OF
the Canadian Pacific Railway Com
pany here were besieged by crowds
OF weeping men aud women. relatives
and friends of the crew Of the En-
press of Ireland sunk with $50. OF
Father Point. Most Of the officers and
men of the Empress Of ireland lived
here Officials Of the company this
afternoon claimed TO nave no in
formation regarding the accident and
the .namber saved.
Later the line officials announced
that many passengers of the Empress
OF ireland were landed safely at
Rimousk
Among those most anxious for
news at the Canadian Pacific offices
was John Burns, an official Of the
Salvation Army. Many members Of
the Army bound for London to attend
Continued on Page Twelve
Evening journal., 1914-05-29

Judge George Gray announced this at
ternoon that he has sent to President
Wilson his resignation as a judge of the
United States District Court Of Appeals,
to take effect on June l.. Following his
retirement Judge Gray will occupy an
Office in the suite of Ward, Gray and
Neary, in the dupont Building, and re-
sumo, but only in a limited sense. the
practice Of law.
Judge Gray was born In New Castle,
Del, on May 4, 1870, where he attended
the public schools and later was gradu-
ated from Princeton College N 1862. He
studied law with his father and also
studied one year in the Harvard Law
School
Judge Gray was admitted to the bar
in 1863 appointed attorney general
of the state in 1879 by Governor
Hall and was reappointed by Cover.
nor stockley in 1884
Judge Gray was a delegate to the
Democratic National Conventions o.
1S76-1ssO, and 1884. Shortly after
ward ne was elected to the United
States Senate to fill the vacanc,
caused by the resignation Of Senator
Thomas F. Bayard. who became sec
retary of state. Judge Gray was re
elected United States Senator in lSS'
and 1898. He also served as a mem
Der of the commission which met il
Quebec in 1898 to settle fishing differ
ences between this country and Can
ada. In 1898 he served as a member
of the Paris peace commission tha
arranged peace terms between III
United States and SPAIN followin,
the war with Spain.
President Mckinley in 1899 appointe
him Judge of the United States Circui
Court and while serving as judge h
was chosen chairman of the commission
To investigate conditions in the Penn
svlvania ~oal fields during the strike o
the miners in 1902, and he rendered SIG
al service in arbitrating and settlin
the coal strike.
Judge Gray was also appointed
member OF the permanent court of arbi
tration at The Hague in 1900; reap
pointed in 1906 by former Presiden
Roosevelt and was a member Of sal
court in the North Atlantic fisherie
arbitration. under the special agreemen
between the United States and Grea
Britain of January 81 1909.
Judge Gray is ono Of the best know
members of the United States Judic
lary, and was statesman of inter
national fame because of his partici
Continued on Page Twelve.
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
some OF Those
Saved FROM death

BY The United Press.
MONTREAL, Que, May 2o.-Follow-
ing is a partial list of those saved from
the liner Empress:
Banford, Maroon operator; d. Ber-
genston, Bault, bedroom steward; W.
Rowan, Alex. Bradley, ooatswain's
mate; C. Combe sentrymsn; A. Regi-
nald. Morland, White, Grey, Joseph
Williams. assistant steward; + Fos-
ter, A. Elliott, NO 8 baker; A. T. Fer
guson, Mrs. R. Simon, Noscald, Boelix,
Specedon, Nobek, A. W Garry, Gaabe
chief steward, c. F. Sampson, chief engi.
neer; Swan (thought to be engineer) ;
Forbes, Bratwick, sailor; o. s. Murphy
Sorahue, quartermaster; Buckworth
electrician; ]. Salio, Fapeke, Donovan
A. williams, H. Claredon. p Harron
Charles Clarke, K Laski, G. W. S. Hen
derson. Montreal stock broker; Saven
Kingseath.
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
Many SalvatiOnists Go Down With Ship

MONTREAL Quebec, May 29.-The following the
Salvation Army delegation bound for the London worlds con-
yenOn passengers aboard the Empress of Ireland
Commissioner and Mrs Rees TOrOntO Field Secretary Col
onel Gasn and Mrs Gasn; Aduan Recksted Grace HOsp
ta Winnipeg; Brgader Scott Potter financial secretary To-
rOntO; Brigadier Walker, editor of the Canadian
War Cry Toronto; Major David Creighton. of the
immigration department, and Mrs. Creighton, To-
rontO; Major and Mrs. Findlay, Winnipeg; Major
Howell maEager of the printing department and Mrs Howell
Toronto; Major Turn Of the trade department To-
rOntO; Major Frank Morris divisional commander, LOndOn
Staff Captain Arthur Morris, Toronto; Staff Captain Mean
mond Winnipeg; Captain Hayes Temple Corps TOrOntO
Staff Captain Goodwin, Ottawa; Adiuan Brce marOn Res
cue Home HamtOn Adjutant Edwards Ottawa; Ensign
Jones' Calgary; Ensign Peacock Calgary Ensign KnudsOn
Captain Ruth Rees daughter of Commissioner Rees; Staff
Band tweneght officers from the Toronto headquarters
Adiuant Samang and Captain McGrah with the band
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
sETTLE CASE OUT on COURT.

In Superior Court this morning the
case of Samuel A. Carr VS.. the Cont
mental Fibre Company which began in
.the court Yesterday was withdrawn
from the jury counsel In the case an
nouncine that the case had been set
tied out of court.
L. Irving Handy and W. l.. Adams
represented the plaintih and Robert
II. Richards the defendant The suit
was to recover $4,000 damages for
injuries which Carr alleges TO have
sustained at the plant of the defendant
company, at Newark, Del, IN May.
1912, when he was knocked TO the
floor by a barrel of boiler compound.
which he was assisting to lower to
the basement, and which fell and
struck him dislocating his shoulder.
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
FLAGS WILL DIP
AGAIN TO HONOR
NATION S HEROES
Memorial Day Observance
il Wilmington More Elab-
crate Than Ever
Sons. BOY scouts and
CITY Officials IN PARADE

Tomorrow ihc echo OF brave decd.
and battles oi over nitF years ago VIII
be- heard throughout the land. II VIII
be Memorial Day. the reminder of the
s.rifo between the North and the South.
OF mttles in which brother fought
brother and father fought son as though
OF a different race, and the thousands
who laid down their lives for principle.
which NO matter at this day whether
right on wrong. were deemed at that
dark time enough for the sacrincc~
Those veterans VINO wore both tine blue
and the grey viii be honored alike TO-
morrow. Their part in history was re-
ally to weld this country in one united
nation. something that never could have
been accomplished but for the sacrifice
on both sides.
Tomorrow the veteran will be hon
ored i'm both the North and the South.
Reunion time for the blue and the grey
has come around again. The other day
a flag captured Just fifty years ago to
the day was presented by a Johnny
70 s'Yank" who had borne it in the
face of belching cannon at Chattanooga.
The spirit is emblematic of that will
exist tomorrow. In Wilmington the
celebration will be one OF the largest
In Years. There will be a parade in
-he afternoon. and most of the stores
win be closed all day. In the morning
the veterans will decorate the graves Of
the soldiers who served in the war and
have gone to rest.
Flowers for the graves of the ole
soldiers will be contributed by man,
Wilmingtonians. Flowers intended
for Smyth Post. No. l. and Sheridan
Post, No. %, should be sent to Irish
American Hall, No. sos French street
not later than 7.30 o'clock in tn
morning of Decoration Day: those in
tended for Grant Post, No. 10, to b
used at Silverbrook Cemetery. are T.
be left at the cemetery in care of tn
superintendent. not later than
o'clock in the morning. and those 70
use in Cathedral Cemetery are to b.
left at the cemetery in care of the su
perintendent not later than 93
o'clock in the morning.
Flowers for DUPONT Post should b
sent to DUPONT Post rooms, Fifth an
shipley streets. in the mcrning.
The parade will start at o'clock
from Fourth and French streets. Tn
bell on the City Hall will tap twic
for the parade to move The route vii
be as follows: Form on Frencl
street, from French street TO Fourth
TO Market street, to Eleventh street
10 Delaware avenue, to the Soldiers
Monument countermarch on Val
Buren street to Ninth street, to Wash
Continued on Page Twelve.
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
$50 PERSONS 90 DOWN TO DEATH WHEN NORWEGIAN
COLLIER STORSTAD RAMS AND SINKS LINER EMPRESS OF
IRELAND IN ST. LAWRENCE RVER-REPORT 337 SAVED
Great Marine Disasters In Last Decade

General Slocum burned East River 1904 1000 lost.
Norge fOundered at sea, 1904 $50 lost
Ying King, sunk of Hong Kong, 1905, 300 lOst.
Republic rammed by Florida and sunk oil Nantucket
1909 six lost.
Sardinia burned at sea, 1909, 100 lost.
Aurora sunk by icebergs in North Atlantic 1910 lS7 lost
Russ, sunk in Black Sea- 1872 172 lost.
Titanic sunk by iceberg in North Atlantic 1872 1395 lost
Texas fOundered in Gulf of Smyrna, 1912, lao lost
Kckemaru, sunk of Japanese coast, 1912 1000 lost.
German torpedo boat destroyer BY cruiser York
North Sea, 1913 IT'S lost.
CaIvadOs lost in Sea of MarmOra, 1873 200 lost
State of California, wrecked off Alaskan coast 1873
VOlturnO lost, burned in midOCean, 1913, 1876 lOsi.
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
MISS VERNON WRITES OF WORK

The currcnt ISSUE Of the SuiIrugist
contains lengthy article on Cam
paieping Through Nevada" by Miss
Mabel Vernon of this city. who is an
organizer Of the Congressional Union,
photograph OF herself. Her article
not alone tells of the fight being made
Tor suffrage in the western state but is
repletc with personal experiences met
with by Miss Vernon
Evening journal., 1914-05-29
rTAR y HIvp sEEE LOST ~
FouEDExrEs or LuCErSBAca
~ ras ~ -.

by The unitss Fress.
wAsHNcrow, wsy 2s.-Aetns upo= saessass from BAL
rsoe owners Of the steamer LueEssssoh shat Asy fear
tho atzet aas sornasrsa Flosea eeast viA =
be-u cs tho crew se cutter series stated tedsy thar
two cutters seince have been ordered
instuto search tne virgnls capes Florida. me
yamscraV cent iron Savannah, Co. ana the Seminole
from Beaufort wireless stations also serch
ng ssae vessel reposted overdue AZ Baltimore since
sailed way i5 ron Tanpa win cargo o. phosphate rock
a. wsss Der captain. sas. the soVernnent agencies
sscn unable 70 and trace o. the missing steamer
mo owners q tho lacseahA advised the revaus cutter on
cials hat they fear The lost m the hea storms
which recently sreps soutA eesst o coIsssc-
Evening journal., 1914-05-29

Captain Kendall, lost the ship on
his first trip as her commander. He
was selected from 100 C. p r. cap
taius lust a week pso to command the
wrecked liner Ills cldef officers
were
M r. steede. chief engineer.
W. sampson, assistant chief engi-
neer
A. B. Mcdonald, r. n r. purser
J. +. Grant NJ. D. surgeon
A w. Gaade. chief steward
Wireless messages 10 the Mar
conf station at Father Point from
Captain Kendall, OF the Empress of
Ireland, both before and after the
liner went down. and from the stor-
stad, which rammed the vessel as
pieced together here early today gave
the following story of how the wreck
occurred:
The Empress, according TO these
messages. was nosing her way
through the thick fog when. about
1870 o'clock, the siren of the stor-
stad was heard AT once, Captain
Kendall ordered the liner hove to-.
The great density Of the mist, It Is be-
lieyed. prevented the position Of the
oncoming collier from being accurate
ly determined. and while the big pas
senger vessel was still. the storstad
suddenly loomed through the murk
and crashed, bow on. into the hull Of
the larger ship.
Heavily loaded and lying low in
the water, the stors'ad's bow appar-
entity sheared through the side Of
the liner tearing a great hole in her
vitals The known fact that the
J liner went down IA just ten minutes
I is taken as indicating that the col
lier's speed could not have been
reduced Safety compartments in
the Empress would surely have pre-
vented her loss had the collision been
other than severe
Feeble wireless on the government
boat Eureka and the Lady Evelyn
and the crippled storstad have pre-
vented receipt of anything like a
complete story of the disaster. De
moralization Of the land telephone
lines along this part Of the St
Lawrence has also delayed news from
Rimouski.
Captain Last 10 Desert Ship.
Night log and suddenness, all lent
horror 10 the accident which came
in as startling a fashion as that other
disaster when the Titanic went down
Screams OF women and shouts or men
rang out through the night as the
Storstad. low-lying. heavy laden, solid
came out OF the night murk and
smashed, headon, into the Empress.
Confusion followed Reused from
sleep by the crash of the meeting
vessels. the passengers of the liner
aocked to the decks, many clad only
in their night-clothiHg and rush foi
, the boats followed The crew of
the ship and most OF the male pas