Evening star., 1914-07-26
V1IDE bands of Scotch plaid or
w candle are used on the edges Of

WIDE bands of Scotch plaid or
| w candle are used on the edges OF
| white organdie ruffles on short
skirts dropped over a satin foundation.
Black velvet ribbon is banded on ruffies
In the same way.
When the merry widow styles We're
here few years ago everybody liked
them-which is something that cannot be
said about the styles of today. So any
suggestion that merry widow styles are
returning is welcome. The merry widow
| hat is really here agafn-a big cartwheel
| hat in black velvet. with almost no trim
ming to detract from its simple but be-
coming shape.
Chiffon flowers are much used on hats
and to, catch the drapery on gowns.
Small chiffon fruits. too, are used. Many
of them are made of several layers OF
chiffon of various shadeS-red over pur-
pie. for instance. and then silver blue
over that The results are very inter-
esting.
Satin and velvet pansies In splendid
purples and yellows, four times the
natural size that grows in our gardens.
are used on hats. They are also used
in the front of the bodice just above the
deep girdle.
| Shirt waists of white organdie, to which
are attached mems waistcoats of white
pique. with pockets at the waist line and
fat silver buttons. are a novelty that
deserves attention.
There has been a great deal of ex-
| perimenting on the part of the big
| to stop the reproduction of their
models by the wholesale in the shops.
| They think now that fabric hats VIII
protect them to some extent. For they
of Pfnto nfh fo
in their own workrooms. to the meas
| ure of their customers heads. and
| hence these hats are not seen until
| they are worn by their owner. The
| hats made up and on exhibition. but
the fabric hats. matching the gown
with which they are worn in material.
are made to order.
Velvet has taken a decided place in
| midsummer clothes. One phase of 1t
is the short black velvet coat, without
| sleeves or else with long ones, worn
fed skirts. The combination of lace
and velvet, always good, is especially
striking in these coats and gowns.
| Much velvet, plain and striped, is
| made up into hats, capes, separate
| coats and even basques. in the shape
of sweaters. which are worn over
gowns of white lace or white taffeta
Attractive capes of black velvet. lined
with white satin. short and full, are
flung carelessly over gowns of fine
| white lingerie.
A new tunic is circular, made of fine
| foundation of black satin. The tunic is
cut in true circular style, in one piece
with a seam at the back, and it fits
smoothly over the hips. 1t is bound al
the bottom with an inch-wide band OF
black satin. The noticeable thing about
the tunic is that it is creased from
| waist-line to lower edge in six or eight
creases. These break the breadth
| which the plain, circular cut of the
| skirt would otherwise give.
Circular skirts may be the next thing
on the calendar of dress. AT any rate
| they are a coming poSSibility A cir
cuIar skirt that has already made its
| appearance is made of white taffeta
| 1t is fitted at the hips and falls in wide
| ripples at the ankles.
All thin fabrics are now made into
| fine pleatings to be used as the edgins
to skirts, tunics. ruffies. sleeves and
sashes. These fine pfeated fuches give
1t is possible to buy pseated fabrics
of various sorts and widths in most
of the department stores The half
made pleated skirts. in heavy voile
| thin serge and poplin and other thin
fabrics, are sold everywhere. and they
are especially suitable for tennis and
| other outdoor sports These need
only seam at the back and hooks
on the belt to finish them. Then there
is fortyinch width black and white
silk sold accordion pleated. There are
narrow ruches and pleatings of silk
| for trimmings. and there are petticoal
tlounces of all colors and materials, al
ready pleated.
| Paul Polret, always on the lookout for
unusual designs, has now adopted some
queer. primitive designs from old docu-
ments. These he has had stamped on
light materials in colors and the resul,
is very effective. One of these DESIGNS
for instance, may be used on the back
of a coat. another in the middle OF a
blouse, with very good effect
i Soft old muslin and candle are en-
boridered with silver threads in a Very
/ heavy design. Gowns are made of this
fabric. and so are brilliant blouses to
| wear with thin white coat suits 1t is
| said in Paris that all indications point
/ to the use of much metallic material
4 next winter.
4 Long, tight. transparent sleeves from