Abbeville progress. (Abbeville, Vermilion Parish, La.) 1913-1944, 1914-01-10

Lines Simple and Straight.
! The CheFuit suit under discussion
gained prominence through its straight
lines. The skirt was absolutely plain.
except for a wide Tapped seam in the
| front and darts that lessened it's cir
conference ut the foot. The coat was
a medium hip-length that was a trifle
shorter in the front, with two seton
box plaits in the back and d narrow
belt of plain material that defined the
natural waist line. The fabric scheme
was not distinctive. for it was merely
the compose idea interpreted with
plain blue serge skirt and green and
blue check serge coat. trimmed with a
shawl collar and deep cuffs OF civet
cat.
Docuillet has also hearkened to the
call for simplicity in suits. One OF the
newest models from that couturier was
of black velvet, with rather straight
skirt, edged with a wide band OF nat
uraI raccoon and topped with a shaped
tunic Of black satin; in the gulf where
the tunic separated in the back 4 sin
gle sash-end Of satin was inserted. The
coat, which was a medium hiP-length
affair, was curved 10 suggest a cut
away and was fashioned with rather
large reyers. which We're distanced to
disclose "a waistcoat Of white silk;
around the neck 1t was finished with
high stock of the fur. which also edged
the sleeves. A large barrel-shaped
muif of the raccOOn completed the cos
tune.
Correct Fabrics for Suits.
Peau de suede, which has the beauti-
full soft and dull finish of the dainty
leather from which il. takes its name,
is much used in the various tones of
chamOis. tan, gray, brown and green.
Peau dopeche, which is woven 10 re-
semble the skin of a peach. is a novel
~ that has won much admiration for
its beauty
Velours de laine in plain and cut
Cstriped effect weaves is very popu-
lar. Indeed, it is frequently substituted
for duyeUne.
The always reliable brOadcloths and
serges are again coming back to their
own. And they viii enjoy "A greater
vogue when severely tailored suits
reign supreme.
Afternoon suits are mostly Of velvet
in plain and panne weaves, silk duve-
tyre, velyeteen, plush or brietschwanz
the latter is generally combined with
satin or velvet Such suits are most
effective and elegant in black. Russian
green. midnight and navy blues, tete
de negre. prune, burgundy and egg
plant purple
Colors Soft and Beautiful.
The richness of the fabrics is great
ly enhanced by the quiet beauty of the
colors which are finding favor with the
Paris elegante.
Brilliant color combinations for
street suits have been supplanted by
wonderfully soft shades, usually very
dark, which are indeed a triumph of
the dyer's art, The effect is not so
somber as might be expected. consid-
erfng that all black hats are so univer-
sally worn. for almost invariably there
is a dash of brilliant color which livens
up the costume. Sometimes this is &C.
complished by the gilet, which has be-
come so important part of the coat
and skirt; sometimes by a tiny bou-
quet OF brightly colored artificial flow
ers. These little touches of color
must be employed by an artist, for
they can mar a costume quite as read
lily as they can add to it's beauty.
Fure never have been worked to the
perfection the furriers have attained
this season. They are as soft as fabric
and lend themselves to draping With
the lively colors and the splendid furs
used in street costumes the morning or
afternoon promendate presents a most
unusual spectacle. as all the women
appear to be beautiful,
Seen at the Ritz.
When a suit is distinguishable at the
Ritz during the tea hour, one can be
certain that it is a notable costume,
for here one sees the royalty of Eu-
rope, the best dressed Parisiennes and
many prominent Americans And to
say that there was one particular toilet
that dominated brilliant assemblage
the other day is paying it a decided
compliment 1t was a three-piece cos
tune with gown of black charmeuse,
whose skirt was simply draped to
swathe the fgure-with bolero Jacket
Of broadtail, from which fared tunic
of finely plated tulle, edged with
wide band of the fur. The tunic was
a graduated affair that was quite short
at the right side and extended almost
to the knees at the left
Callot's Eccentric Fur Trimming.
A wide band of white fox was simply
wound diagonally around the skirt Just
at the knees. If the skirt had not
been gathered in and draped up lin
frontl under the fur it might have had
quite straight lines. The short Jacket
of this suit of velvet, which was in a
curious shade of brown, was rather
plain, except that the back was about
two inches shorter than the fronts,
which it overlapped. narrow band
ing Of the fur edged its V-haped neck
and the tops of its sleeves.