The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-15

snuffed out by the one piece
i frock. 1t has seen fashions
come and go. but apparently II
has every intention of going ON forever.
This season L oven shows signs OF
new ifc. takes on novel features. or at
least features that have been out Of
style SO long that now hey are now
again. The .ong sleeve, tho high collar.
the closer lines. all these new old do
tails have invaded blouscdom and offer
\ welcome change from tho inevitable
shapeless. decollcte wisp Of chiffon or
tul'c OF ycsteryear.
Mt that the wisps of tullc or lace or
chiffon do NOT s,ill nuucr fragi.ely on
wuXcn ladies in the shop windows and
lc in rumpei heaps on the counters.
Many of them are even more djaph-
arous than ever, though the filmiest Of
them is likely 10 show tho long sleeves.
ard collar high in tho back and hit Of
fur by way ~ ballast. but one doesn't
absolutely have to choose between
plain shirtwaist and a cobwcb contcc-
ton now. There are blcuscs plenty
fashioned chiefly of such sturdy stun
as supple satin or velvet and the all
satin or all silk b.ouse IL shown in very
clever phases by all of the exclusive
houses
But tho blouse pa excellence of the
season is the ono made with a sleeve
les everybody of satin or velvet or crepe
or whatever the designer happens 10
fancy. and a guimpe and long sleeves OF
another material, usually matching the
main body in color.
One sees this type OF blouse on every
hand and 1t offers all sorts Of oppor-
tunities for economies though one can
spend an eXtrdvagant sum on IL II
one spurns frugality.
II offers also excellent opportunity for
giving q one piece frock effect Ia the
skirt and blouse Of a suit; for the ma
tcrial OF the skirt can nc carried on M
TO the shoulder. and yet IL it happens To
he too warm for waist comfort. can he
cut away dras,icaily over the trans
parent or semi-transparent underbOdlcs,
Many of these houscs are made In
velvet with long sleeves and waistcoat
or guimpe OF satin or chiffon or lace;
and some of the popular models in this
class should no; De called blouses at all,
for they emphatcally do not blouse.
Instead they mould the shoulders and
bust softly, loosely, and fall straight TO
the hips like glorfed MILDLY blousos.
They are comfortable and smart looking
LOT tnt- NouHStl III anu W. NV
slender women: but. alas, they seem TO
have a pcrverse way of appe aling to
the wrong women and appearing upon
the wrong figures.
The same is true Of the other straight
falling everybody. which is built some
what on the lines of short mandarin
coat. In velvet with touches Of bold
embroidery and fur and with long
sleeves OF chiffon, lace or satin IL Is
picturesque and charming-w be
coming.
There is many an everybody model less
radical than these. and with a skirt 10
match the everybody almost any model
OF this kind would fit in well with a one
piece frock design. Two of the models
sketched on this page. for example,
would be successful as froCk bodices,
and where an old bodice is too worn for
further wear II is sometimes quite pos
sible TO get enough good material out
OF II for an everybody and achieve a bod
ice on modish lines without too much
buying of new material.
The draped everybody of the picture Is
n clever little model whose back is more
original than It's front though the
front IL new in becoming and con-
servative way. The back swings from
inc neck ana SDDulutiH III IL u
feet, ripping toward the bottom, end
ing just at the lower line of the girdle
and buttonlng to the everybody front
under each arm. a satin meteor was
The material of the original model, and
a tailored effect was given by the high
cravat and by binding all the edges
with matching silk braid. though long
chiffon sleeves in the color of the satin
gave the lie 10 the blOuse'S severity
Another blouse that was brought over
by many of the best houses is the one
with shoulder yoke and tabs passing
through Sits on the bodice front. This
has been made in everything. from chf-
ton TO velvet, and liz particularly pretty
In certain rather gay shades OF satin
with skilfully blended embroidery color
ing, in soft coral embroidered in lovely
tones of amethyst and blue, or in mus
tard yellow with embroidery OF warm
browns and greens and even dashes Of
autumnal red in fruity tones. Rut for
practical wear this blouse has its over
body in silk or velvet matching the
coat suit with which it is to he chiefly
worn, and with embroidery in coloring
haymonlzing with suit or hat.
simpler and among the best looking
Of the new hlouses are such models as
the white satin and chiffon model which
Is the third of the group and which
looks well in color as well as I'm white
Tho high straight collar, with it's satin
cords, appeals to the woman who Is
tired of the ubiquitous low cut blouse
and rolling collars.
The really good looking high collared