The daily telegram. [volume] (Clarksburg, W. Va.) 1901-1926, 1914-10-10
THE H,AsKIN ETFER
HOW THE WAR AFFECTS Us.

y BY Frederick ,. Hasldn.

The European war will.giye Ameri,
/ can cheese q chance to win LASTING
friends among the people who set the
fashion in menus as we'll as dress
According to our Department of Agri.
culture, there has long existed an nm.
1 founded prejudice against native Inn
itations OF foreign cheese sorts, which
only more frank acquaintance 1f
needed to 1fspel. The opportunity to
the home industry is said to be
golden one.
The interruption Of Europe,s trade
has done away with all competition on
| the part of fancy cheeses made
abroad. Besides. Europeans. who
are cheese-eaters before everything
else except the bread upon which they
eat the cheese. doubtless VIII suspend
export OF this precious article during
the uncertainties of combat. In the
meantime, openly American name
sake cheeses should obtain an endur-
ing hold upon the affection of the
people. Ultimately. our product
may perfume its way around TIM
world In much the same unconQuera-
EIe spirit as the preparation OIL
Limburg. w.
Through the fiscal year ending
June 80, 1914. this country consum-
ed 63.784, 313 pounds of imported
cheese. The bulk Of these imports
were Roouefort, stilton. Camembert
Edam. Parmesan, Gorgonzola. Brie.
Gouda, Emmenthaler and Gryere.
Most OF. these varieties have been sue
cessfully Initiated in the United
states. Likely, our manufacturers
can produce all the rest true to their
genre.
There are, perhaps, a few brands
OF European cheese which are unde-
sirable for imitation from the aver
age American viewpoint. One OF
these is the famous German Harz
mountain cheese. 1t is q preparation
with a delightful flavor but most
resolute. capable SMELL Few Ameri-
can families could live at peace in the
same neighborhood with 1t. When
a well-aged Harz cheese becomes
..het up and determined. 1t has a
peculiarly effective, obtrus1ve.
searching insistency about it which
com pels the admiration Of even the
most reserved. Such a cheese can
out-smell any brand Of fragrance
yet Invented with a nonchalance and
ease of bearing that are wonderful
No one ever lived In the same house
with a Harz cheese unawares. One
might possibly harbor q king unbe.
knownst, but never such an unpeered
thing as ripe Harz cheese The lat
ter Is itself wherever 1t goes, and II
never travels incognito.
With the proper effort and study
the experts of the government be.
lieye that American manufacturers
can turn out practically all the types
of foreign cheese which ind mar
ket here. They have called attention
to the fact that many of the celebrat-
a san
this country with q trueness to form
that only an expert could penetrate
Among the oft-imttated cheeses is
camembert. ~
Camembert Is cheese whose ac-
quaintance once made is srevered
ever. It is q soft, impressed cheese!
with tart gaminess Of favor. when
consumed at the most fitting age. II
can be prepared in the United States
with all the excel1encies OF the for
eign article and moreover, can be put
upon the market and sold before
reaching state. of such utter ripe
ness as to change its mellow tang In
to harshness Camembert has been
prepared from native mifks with
more or less. success for number OF
years However. there has been
much prejudice to overcome against
it in favor OF the imported article.
While the French were the origi-
majors Of this cheese style, the Ger
man-imitated camembert compares
with the genuine article as the nee.
tar of the Olympians compares with
plain sugar and water. There is
thick creamfness about the German
camembertS which is lacking in the
French product. There is. further.
less of the unpleasant. pungent
sharpness. II ripens more evenly.
and from the brown-yellow crust of
the German cheese pale-yellow
heart of exquisite. tender cream can
be extracted. On the other hand.
the French camembert, in weh-rip-
ened state, often runs In a thin
gyeenish liquid.
Cheese of the Swiss variety is
made just as well in this country as
upon the Alps, or in other pafss of
Europe. American limburger is said
to have driven its foreign rival out of
the market long ago, being superior
in quality and less in price Accord
ing to government experts, the home
consumers generally have failed to
notice any difference and still enjoy
their Hmburger as foreign cheese.
OF course, the soft cheeses, like cream
cheese, have had to come from the
home producer, because they are in
tended to be eaten quite fresh. Hence
in these varieties, American manu-
facturers have not had to com bat
such names as Gervais, Neufchatel
and Borden. In the other cases.
their struggles are said,to have been
chiefly caused by the currency
of a name.
It seems reasonable to, suppose
that Americans can produce much
richer. more satisfying cheese than
the people OF Europe, for the Ameri-
can milk is far better article than
that with which Europeans content
themselves. The German milk is
thin and substanceless It is weak,
shilly -shaHy, non-commttal. apollo