Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-06-28

and taffeta? I assure you that the COM
bination is unusually good. The skirt
may be of the latter silk and the basque
OF the satin. This is the cool way. but
the opposite is the more graceful. for satin
lends itself to pleating better than tat
feta.
Last season you might have been tempt
eed to put sash of different faoric and
color. but this year there Is no strong
allure in that direction. The sash is nee
essarily white and of satin with whatever
disposition you wish to make OF the ends.
Each womans taste differs on this point.
The neck of these basques is not an
easy thing to arrange. The original
model at Premets had deep collar Of
Venetian lace. which was not altogether
comedy or becoming to the average face
The present garment has a high rolling
collar of book muslin. IL one wishes il.
the kind that goes under the name Of
Gladstone. 1t Is not quite appropriate.
although the commingling Of two fashions
which bear the seal of a queen and her
prime minister sounds well. But II sounds
better than 1t looks.
The very newest idea in collars 10 tbs
Understanding double ruche made famous
by Bernhard. And why? Because 1t was
this actress who recognized the grace OF
the Victorian basque. queer as that truth
seems. You who have seen her remem-
Der the partially she showed for the
| wrinkIed garment that fastened In front.
passed her waist. closed in over her
slim slim. soy'sh hips and ended in wrapped
| Look back at that picture and compare
| 1t with the Premet basque of this summer
and YOU will exclaim at the resemblance.
| And Bernhard always wore the high
| double ruche attached to a straight band
| at the neck. neck dress that bore her
name for two decades. And now 1t has
| garment.
| Don't let its artistic history lure you
| into adopting 1t unless you are very. very
| sure that your chin Is sufficiently pointed
! to stand it. 1t is not fashion per So
| for the American face with Its radically
| broad chin and cheek bones. 1t needs a
| long thin face which it frames as q
! flower.
The Salamander Frocks Now Held
Many Enthralled.
1t is difficult to get free from the
thraIl of Owen Johnston's heroine. called
the Salamander. No hostess is so clever
as to be able to steer dinner conversation
away from it and none wishes 1t. Any
hostess is devoutly thankful for theme
| that will interest the guests and this one
does Was the child good or was she
| bad? What is the Interpretation OF the
word bad and why these days? Had
|
| the one that gives its name to all the
rest?' is the way the talk goes to and
| fro.
So it was not any wonder that the play
| should produce an entirely new set OF
ideas regarding clothes? And so we have
the Salamander gowns and coats and
hats, and the reason they are interesting
is that they are really artistic and give
| women a chance to wear garments on
| straight lines again.
| All of them have that Bernhardt
| basque with its boyish negligence from
shoulder to waist its extraordinary long
waist line. its broad girdle and below
| that a plain short skirt with knife
pleated tunic that reaches within three
| inches of the hem.
This is made up in blue satin and chif-
| fon without a touch of other color me
white homespun-linen gowns have OK
| ceedingly fiaring tunics of the material
| into which is woven broad stripe OF
| blue or pink just above the hem.