davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-04-19
SMART TOUCHES.

A LITTLE taste and ingenuity go a
IA long way to smarter up at small
expense and trouble the plainest attire.
the wearer than more elaborate touches.
Plain little black moire ribbon bows are
placed at the back of the neck of taf-
feta gowns when the f1aring collar and
waistcoat are of black tulle or net The
ribbon is scarcely more than an inch
wide, and the bows though double, lie
fiat against the neck, while the two ends
fall down the back of the bodice for
about three inches, forming most eff
fective finish to the plain line of the seam
which joins the collar to the waist.
Another black note is the black moire
girdle of generous width. loosely outlining
the waist. the soft crushed fabric ending
at the back with a wide Japanese bow,
suggesting the hustle. Jet combs of vari-
Gus kinds and jet ornaments for the hair
are other touches of black.
y
Small handbags in black satin look un-
common decorated with sprinkling of
bright wee flowers, either painted or en-
broidered.
The present intermingling of shapes
I
account every scrap of brocade, figured
silk, embroidery and lace. A raglan col
| lar may be heightened into a neat and
| tasteful front by the addition of pleats
| of net or muslin printed with small flow
ers in a medley of tints, such as pink
crimson, deep red. yellow, green or blue
| Some collars are composed OF scraps oi
different silk, gauZes, etc, touched uI
with glittering beads. dnsel thread and
| 1trrl,N sfaln Gill
| The newest neck finish is the simplest
Take a plain kimono waist, insert around
the neck silk cord, beaded at the ends
| draw the cord up, and there you are
| Another simple neck dress is a silk
| cord strung with beads. with buttor
| at either end, slipped through each two
| buttonholes to effect a fastening. Tlret
| loops and six crocheted or fancy coloreo
| glass buttons accomplish the fastening
of waist which is simply made with g
| rolling collar.
OF all strange things in this collarless
| day is high collar with shallow
bosom frilled on either side. Narrow al
one side of the plait and wide at the
other is another frill which completes
a high turnover collar.
| Another neck dress is high collar
of lace, with a turnover of net lace
and frilled plat trimmed with link
| buttons. The comfort of a low collar
and the trimness of high one are COM
bined forming low V-shape in from,
| with the high tailor collar in back.
| A pretty touch for a spring suit is q
| narrow belt of self material that fastens
| at the front under a small fiat bow,
| also of the material. and finishes at the
| back in two ends eighteen inches long
and of the same width the belt itself
| The belt is not more than an inch and a
! half wide, and across the bottom of each
| of the hanging ends is two-inch-deer
| string fringe which matches the material
| of the belt in color
| There are window curtains to comply
| with the taste of the hour for black
! decoration, softly relieved with the sub
/ dued motifs and medallions cut out from
| chintz. cretonne or printed linen, and
I applied with an embroidery stitch.
Evening star., 1914-04-19
Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS, April 0, 1914.


PARIS. April o. 1914.
(RP RHENEvER the name of the
Galleries Lafayette is men
AA< toned before an American
w woman who has been to
Paris, IL only once. there is
a reminiscent look in the eye of pleasure
and desire
She falls to dreaming at once, and with
reason. She remembers the hat she
bought there for 50. the like of which
was 81, at home: she thinks of the frock
that was unlike anything she saw in
America, and for which she paid SO,
and she has that bitter experience com
mon to women of wondering why she
didn't buy more when she had the chance.
Knowing all this. any writer who
touches upon the scene at the Galleries
Lafayette at the opening of popular
spring and summer clothes feels sure of
striking a sympathetic chord and getting
an attentive reading.
Just why this store is so dear to many
Americans is easy to explain in phrase.
1t produces the novelty of the moment
at any average price. Could any COM
bination be more seductive than this?
Under its different roofs are grouped
the most amazing variety of things that
allure the last coin from a purse. One
may go there to spend a dollar and re-
main to spend a hundred.
The French laugh at the American en-
thusiasm for this shop. The smart
French woman thinks that everything ex-
plotted there Is too novel, too much the
mode of the moment to be bought by a
woman with taste or to be risked by a
woman who must be economical.
They talk to you of other piaces-the
Eon Marche, for quality; Aux Trois
s,uartiers, for good taste and sobriety
Iut these praises touch not the American
oman. She goes to her beloved Galleries
A soon as the porter has placed her bags
n Yer room at the hotel. She may go
. for pictures and old buildings later;
sa.r may saunter through the Rue de la
l4sA and gaze in the windows of the
sue de Rivoli tomorrow. but If you want
ht to be happy. let her start for the
edward Haussmann, and don't ask her
sth-n she will return. At whatever hour
,aa says she will. depend upon it. she
soT.'t
There IS a common saying in Paris
..ricss the Anglo-Saxons that what you
can't md there you can't find in Paris.
tl,e may see new costume on a smartly
.iressed woman. novel waistcoat in a
agh-priced window, wonderful hat that
Evening star., 1914-04-19

One of the new belts is so broad that
it gives the empire effect above the
waistline and below fitting smoothly over
the hips secures for them the approved
appearance of slenderness. At the left
side there is a single broad end. which
tapers gradually toward the knee and
terminates in a deep fringe
Evening star., 1914-04-19

was the smooth crepe frock covered VITA
a calico design in bright colors. II VAS
strongly featured at the big houses. ard
every one thought it would be an easv
winner among the later spring frocks. ] :
may become the choice of the exclusives
a substitute for Roman stripping vhic |
the smart women are afraid of over her.
but is not numbered among the popular
models.
There is one gown somewhat in this
design. however. in the reasonably priced
frocks. which looks like AN animated bar
bers pole. If a woman has sufficient
dash and style to wear il. she will find it
an enchanting choice. The material is a
thin, white tissue. and the stripes are IN
black. dull red and bright blue cunning y
mixed.
The skirt is a succession OF rtff1es made
Of the material cut on the bias. and the
half low blouse with its elbow sleeves is
also on the bias. There is very little OF II.
as the front and the collar are of white
null and thin lace Instead Of a barber
pole. probably it should be likened to ons
of those glass jars of assorted stick
candy.
When lacouered black ribbon came IN
fashion for millinery, people wondered il
il would be used in other ways and evil
IDENTIFY the dressmakers have taken their
chance at il. Many Of these summer
gowns have folded Eirdles of IL. finished
in fiat pump bows at the back. This
will bo feature to look for on thin
frocks.
a plain belt has no especial place in the
costumery of the day, and leather is not
revived; Vet all garments have girdles
made in some fashion. Even the Jackets.
short as they are. have a loose belt from
the side seams that drops low in the mid
lp g a
And one smart model of cream crepe and
white batiste, has a belt of yellow suede
covered with American Indian embroid-
cry.
Evening star., 1914-04-19
For the Child Artist.

~ would bring many hours of happi-
ness to the child who likes to paint 1t
is made up of picture postal cards ready
to paint and only in need of a one-cent
stamp to make them ready for the mails.
These books come in different sizes, and
vary in price according to the size.
Evening star., 1914-04-19
yesterday at $13 piece which could MOI
be made at home for $50.

With us silk is an expensive PROPOSE
ton, but there it runs along with any of
the commonplace fabrics, and therefore
one is in luck today because silk is the
fabric of the moment.
Possibly if one tried to pick out the
most popular model shown in this fabric
one would settle on the skirt which Pre-
met brought out with the fullness at hips
and knees drawn upward into puffs at
the end Of the corset. Beneath is a mar
row underskirt, usually in a printed de-
Evening star., 1914-04-19
ign such as stripes or plaid, or possibly

sign such as stripes or plaid, or possibly
flowers.
The bodice is quite loose, with long
small sleeves and well opened in front to
show Surplice chemisette of thin mus
lin. The girdle ends in fiat bow at the
back. exactly at the waistine.
This model is copied in nice, crisp, old
fashioned silks the kind of lustrous
weave that was used before the word
taffeta was invented. These are queerly
out of the picture today. but rest assured
they will be in the foreground of the pic
ture tomorrow
].
Think, for instance of what your iudg-
ment would have been in January on this
Evening star., 1914-04-19

There was as yet no steel dart, the
point about the original hat the young
woman had especially liked But she
decided to get along without that OF
course. novelty like that would be
more expensive. So she trimmed her
own hat, spent almost IS more than
she had intended to and wasn't satis-
fled in the end. And there are lots Of
others like her in this day of simple
hats
Evening star., 1914-04-19

THE HOSIERY MEN WILLfHAvE NOTHING TO
FEAR FROM THE STYLES OF THE SPRING
DOUBTLESS THE SKIRT WILL GET WIDER AT
THE BOTTOM THE FULL LONG TUNIC INDICATES
THAT BUT WILL GET SHORTER, so THAT
THE FEET WILL STILL BE AN EVER-VISIBLE
PART OF THE ANATOMY: At THE LEFT is
MODEL OF BLUE GABARDINE. WITH THE NEW
LONG TUNIC AND A SMART WHITE LINEN VEST
Evening star., 1914-04-19

price tag and then dropped it hur-
riedly.
"S15.79." read the tag
May l see some wreaths for two or
three dollars?' she courageously asked
the salesWoman.
But after a glimpse of the sixteen
dollar wreath the three-dollar ones
looked most unattractive She compro-
missed on one at Sc, and felt virtuously
economical.
The ribbon and the steel ornament
those only were left OF course, there
was the lining. but that was only rs
cents. And the ribbon-when she look ed
at wide moire ribbon she could find
nothing that would answer at less than
rs cents a yard
Evening star., 1914-04-19

There IS common saying in Paris
.Glc1s the Anglo-Saxons that what you
cant md there you can't find in Paris.
tue may see new costume on smartly
tiressed woman. novel waistcoat in a
"a gh-priced window, a wonderful hat that
The Washington herald., 1914-04-19
NEW WASHINGTON
LETTER REVEALED
Sir John Lawrence Gives British
Centenary Committee an Auto
graph Missive.

Special Gable to The Washington Herald
London, April lS.-Through the courtesy
of Sir John Lawrence. the British peace
centenary committee has received an au-
tograph letter from Gen. George WASH
ingtOn to Col. Dayton, written during the
American war of independence. The let
ter is dated Headquarters. Newburgh,
May 10, 17S.' Two or three words are
undecipherable. but these are inmate
rial Here is the letter:
Il have given the most peremptory or
ders that no flag from the enemy shall
be received at any other place or post but
Dobbs Ferry on any business or preteXt
whatever and that no flag from US to
them shall 6or any reason however
pressing), be permitted to pass TO the enc
mys lines, except from the same place.
You will take measures for CARRYING
this order effectually into execution, so
far as relates to the posts in Jersey,
within the limits Of your command and
the places at and from which the flags
have been received and sent put
ting in arrest any officer shall
presume to contravene . this order
on our side. and by OBTAINING rs prison.
ers all persons who may come from the
enemy with flags after this regulation has
been announced in such a manner as the
British commander-in-chief gives direc-
tions for the prevention of this practice
in future
The Washington herald., 1914-04-19
ENGLISH CHEFS DEATH
SAD BLOW TO TOURISTS
Most Americans Knew Davey, for AZ
Years With Simpsons, in
Iondon-

London. April 1S.-American tourists
will learn with regret of the death OF
Davey, for forty-seven years chef al
Simpsons in the Strand.
For new-fangled methods in the kitch-
en-, Davey had supreme scorn. and every
Joint was cooked in the traditional Eng
lish method on a spit before the open
fire. What numbers Of saddles Of South
down mutton and ribs and sirloins Of
prime homegrown beef the celebrated
old chef has cooked for grateful clients
ro man can tell.
Simpsons for many a long day has
matists and journalists. 1t was the lit
erary restaurant OF London. and there is
hardly a famous name N English Iitera-
ture for three-quarters of a century that
is not to be numbered among its fire.
quenters. The old man used to recall
with pride how Charles Dickens during
the last three or four years of his life,
used TO come TO Simpsons for lunch or
dinner when in London, and would call
the cook up and compliment him on his
English cuisine. Dickens. as every read
British meals. and took a delight in pen
ming descriptions OF them that make one
hungry only TO read. Among those who
made Simpsons a second home. and were
included in the knights OF the Round
Table" were Charles Mathews. Buck
stone. Ben Webster. Sothern, Blanchard
Jerrold, Pierce Egan, Carl Rose. and
Mark Lemon.
The Washington herald., 1914-04-19
RACES BRIGHTEN BERLIN
AFTER DULL EASTERTIDE
MANY Americans at Karlshorst Track
Patronized by Crown Prince
and Princess.
ana ] IlnCcSS.
sreaal CalIc to Tie Washington Herald.

STeJlal Cake 10 IL" Washington Herald
Berlin. April THE opening Of the
regular spring season at Karlshorst. the
fashionable race track near Berlin. this
week afforded a welcome diversion TO
nrany tourists who were compelled to
pass the monOtonCusly dull Easter holi-
days here
The first days racing events were wit
messed by many Americans. Tn" grand
stand and clubhouse were crowded. tn"
presence Of the crown prince and crown
princess giving the affair a touch of
heightened interest.
The crown prince lately has been show
ing an increased interest in race horses.
and now that the ReiChstaG has frUs-
tratcd his plans for vacation trip to
Africa by refusing to appropriate the
necessary funds. It Is expected that he
will take a prominent part in the sea-
sons track events.
At the opening of --arlshorst two of
his own horses Baby and Moose. were
entered. but nc had bad luck with both.
Baby came under the wire a had forth.
Moose. in taking n hurdle. fell and was
so badly hurt died the next day
The crown princess, who shares her
husbands fondness for horses. looked
charming in costume Of dark blu" silk.
with a loT-crowncd blue ha'. trimmed
with yellow flowers.
Aro1S the americans present were A
l.. Rogers and Dorothy Rogers. OF Min
nearolis. who are spending a fortnight
II Berlin after touring Italy.
The Washington herald., 1914-04-19
ALFRED VANDERBILTS
QUIT PARIS FOR London
Maxine Elliott. After Much Tennis at
Biarritz. Goes Visiting
in Country.
DR.. LAWRENCE COMING HOME
Special Gable to The Washington Herald.

Special Cable to The Washington Herald.
Paris, April ls.-Maxine Elliott. after
returning to the Ritz from Bisrritz,
where she spent the Easter holidays play
ing tennis. has now gone to the country
to visit friends.
Alfred Vanderbilt left the Astoria on
Monday and went to London. Mrs. Van
derbilt following on Wednesday at the
conclusion of the horse show.
Prince Michel MuraI whose wife was
Miss Helen Macdonald Stallo. Of Cincin-
natl, had a serious fall in one of the
hurdle events. He was able. however. to
attend a private boxing match this week
between Georges Carpenter and an Eng
lish amateur named Mitchell.
Another society Frenchman with an
American wife. Walter de Mumm. who
married Miss Frances ScoVilIe. OF Sem
eca, saw the fight with other young
noblcmen. who have formed a new So
Ciety for the boxing set of Paris.
Lord and Lady Granard. who was Miss
Beatrice Mills: Mrs. Bradley Martin.
Howard Martin, and Mr.. and Mrs. Ham
ilton Cary. passed the Easter holidays
at the Ritz.
Mr.. and Mrs. Cortlandt Field Bishop,
OF New York. have left in their automo-
bile for Monte Carlo.
DIR. Mortimer Lawrence. of New York.
who is building superb Italian villa on
the Palisades OF the Hudson. left for
New York on La Provence today. He has
been searching Europe for architectural
features for the exterior and interior dec
orations. as well as paintings. statuary
and other works of art. While here Dr
Lawrence was entertained by Mr. and
Mrs. Robert Williams. OF Philadelphia
His villa is expected to be one Of the
finest show places around New York
The Washington herald., 1914-04-19
"BAS De JUPE" IS
NOVELTY in PARIS
Recalls Pantalettes Worn by Great
grandmothers in About 1850.
Basque in Favor.
FLOUNCE IS WITH US AGAIN
By NINE. RENEE DUvANT.
IA! cave 10 The Washington Hera!d

Special Cable 20 The Washington Herald.
Paris. April lS-Fashion is recovering
somewhat from its uncertainties and GER
tain Of its essential features are be-
coming more firmly defined.
Among these are the foUnce. the tunic
in general suggesting the form of an in
vcrted EtrusCan vase: the basque, mod
eled TO tn" COrpOreal contour or arranged
in ''fronCcs,'' with fiat or hollow pleats,
broadening III" upper part OF the skirts:
the collar or revers Of the Jacket. entire
" altered in form: the belt. which very
often gives the characteristic stamp 10
the costume: the plastron and the waist
coat. various and refreshing in effect
II is still evident. however. that despite
the slight stiTcninS OF the general lines,
many will suffer no serious trammelS In
this seasons modes.
Although the basque has returned with
such pronounced emphasis, there Is no
hint that it is to he regarded as indis-
pensabIe: and the same is true with even
greater certainty with regard to the
panier-like effects in some Of the extreme
models TO the draped portions Of the skirt
about the hips.
The skirt with fiounces. without basque
and without what may be termed
punched" draping is still tolerated. and
many are the members Of the fair sex. to
whom nature has already been sufficient
ly generous. preCluding the need OF arti-
fetal enlargements. who fervently hope,
If they do not pray that they may not
bc forced to adopt what. in their case.
would clearly he an eXaggeration OF Q
conventional ideal.
Very rich. although simple and elegant
robes are TO be seen with skirts perfectly
plain. or else with mere vertical pleats in
the upper portion, usually extending only
part Of the way around. leaving the mid
die Of the front entirely without embel-
liShmCnt.
The great novelty of the week Is q
has dc jupc' detachable and renewed
with each change Of robe. and having the
same external effect as had the famous
embroidered ''pantalettes" worn by our
Observation-Disclosures about 1850.
They are turned out or up at the bot
tom. and usually are surmounted by three
tiers Of hounCes.
The has dc jupe' may envelop each
ankle exactly like the aforesaid ''panta-
Iettes'. and thus render a natural gait in
walking impossible.
Akin to this style is a skirt composed
of single length of stun descending
from the waistline behind. passing be-
tween the ankles and then carried up
ward and back to the waiStline in front
Both there and toward the bottom. Of
course. the stuff Is more or less gath
cred, the only two seams being at the
sides. and descending to a point just
above the ankles. With this skirt =
worn a panier-like basque,
The Washington herald., 1914-04-19
RUSSIAN PENSIONERS
Forced TO Beg BREAD
Highest Pension Gar Pays SlS-Sol-
der Testihes with Arti-
fetal Throat.
COURT LENIENT TO WARRIOR

St Petersburg. April 1S.-That prac-
ticalIy the highest pension the Russian
government pays to any Of its soldiers
does not exceed SIS year was brought
out in the st. Petersburg District Court.
when a volunteer soldier named Pimen-
OF. who received the highest order Of
the 81. Georges Cross for valor in the
recent japanese war was tried and ac-
quilted on the charge OF spreading
knowingly false statements calculated
to excite enmity toward the govern
mcnt."
The prisoner received five wounds dur
ing the japanese war: seven times he
had his horse shot under him. and he
was one Of the handful Of Russian sur
vivors of the fight on Eagles Nest"
His only son was killed in battle. and
when Pimcnoff returned from the front
he found himself without means "f sub
sistcnCc. Many other manned knights
Of St George were in the same plight.
and in order to draw attention to their
destitute state Pimenoff wrote a PAM
phlet called Prom the Diary OF an
Arthurian." in which he described how
they were thrown on the streets and
forced to beg food.
Considering the pity and indignation
excited in 81. Petersburg and other
cities by tho appearance OF these starry
Ing cripples. il is not surprising that
Pimenoff has been acquitted
Nearly all the witnesses for the de-
fense had won in battle the distinction
for vaIor" Their evidence was as
pathetic as their appearance. ono poor
fellow was led into court by little girl.
He was completely blind and had an
artificial throat. his uttNranc"s being
almost incOmprehrnSihlc. tn" only pen
sion he received was SIS a year, which
h, SAID, was the highest received by any
private soldier.
Another witness twice wounded at
Port Arthur. who has three children. OF
whom two are now in the hospital. re-
lated that the war minister gave him
only 81 annually. and therefore he was
Obliged to beg y third witness also
wounded at Port Arthur, said that dur
ing the last three years he had received
IN all s..
A veteran Of the Russo-Turkish war.
who participated in the storminC of Ears.
described how he. to. was reduced to
beECary. Then. again. ther" WAS an un-
pensioncd soldier who fought in twenty
engaGcments during the RUsso-Japanese
war and after hoinG wounded at Port
Arthur. lay for three DAYS and nights
among the dead He was recommended
for the ST Georges Cross but through
some mistake or other did not Obtain
il. He Travelled nearly f.n'h miles to try
and get the error rectificd. hut hitherto
his efforts had hecn fruitless. and he is
now a heCCar.