The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-07-05
PARIS, juno 26.


attacked by even slight gust Of wind
and the long antcnne worn In some Of
the new close fitting toques serve 10
heighten the Illusion.
II is charming idea--the human
butterfly. And II is an idea which seems
to appeal strongly to members of the
eterner sex, for nearly all men admire
the cape outline.
For midsummer wear these canes are
unlined. or lined with very thin Indian
silk or with printed gauzc. For morn
Ing wear they are charming in navy
blue serge. bordered with black silk
braid for the afternoon some of the best
dressmakers are making them of shot
taffeta. uulined and bordcred with
pinked hounCe, n cape collar or Manon
hood completing the picture scheme.
Midsummer with it's background of
cobalt sea and emerald green woods will
bring In its train lovely visions in
neutral tinted frocks in all the pale
shades Of gray, pearl gray. cloud gray,
stone gray. &c. This half tone inspira-
ton has come from very famous
painter. whose opinion is as eagerly
sought by the eclectic PariSiennc as that
OF the great Worth himself
This painter has had much to do with
the revival of picture fashions. He has
worked hard. hand in hand with An
tonic de la Gandara and others, to do
away, To a certain extent, with fashions
which are merely eccentric or sensa-
tional. He is a power in Paris, and since
his portraits are universally admired he
Is in position to make his voice heard.
new and very charming shoulder
scarf IL composed of alternate bands of
ermine and white tulle. Such sCarfs as
this can he thrown on over any summer
dress and they alw9ys strike a har-
monious note. Some of the ultra chic
Parisiennes have similar scarfs made ~
black tullc and bands OF black brett
schwanz: these are worn over dainty
robes in rose pink chiffon or silver tulle
yelled in black Chantllly.
Breitschwanz Is a fur which always
gives an impression of extreme richness.
People insist that IL can he perfectly
initiated but In my opinion there are
at least three things which defy imita-
tion-and they are the three things
most frequently imitated--real pearls.
real Valenciennes lace and real brett
schwanz.
Another charming scarf for afternoon
wear Is made of pearl gray chiffon
lined with supple silver tullc and Dor
dered with "A narrow band Of black fox.
This particular scarf recalls the por-
traits OF such masters AZ Gainsborough
and Reynolds: It is a delightful addition
TO lace or chiffon gown and tho little
note of dead black is unfailingly effec-
tive. Pale gold tulle looks lovely when
yelled in desert dawn pink chiffon and
inexpensive scarfs of this order are
bordered with black marabout or with
q fringe of ostrich feather trimming.
For evening wear white tulle scarfs
lined with silver tulle and bordercd
with white marabout or crminc are
charming; in all cases the gold or silver
tulle must be absolutely supple In tex
ture and of the finest quality. I re-
Gently saw Gabrielle DorZat-one of
the most elegant actresses on the Pari-
sian stage--wear a lnoC scarf of orange
colored chiffon velvet lined with black
satin over clinginG robe composed
entirely OF black Chantllly lace. Her
picture hat was black. so were her long
gloves but she carried a fiat topp
parasol cover I'd wa nranCe cOlored
velvet to match -" s'nr., the ensemble
was admirable.
Sketches are :.'C" Co.: two pretty sum-
mer hats th.s week. These models are
quite free from eSaggeration and might
be worn al any time and With almost
any smart afternoon dress.
The toque is original In shape. IT IL
covered with white ivy leaves and there
10 no relief of any kind This toque was
to be worn with navy taffeta gown.
The wide brimmed hat is Of the pop
ular sailor shape. 1t is in chalk white
taffeta lined with black satin straw
The feathers. which are shaded from
black to white. are cleverly arranged.
They seem to have been thrown on
the hat quite carelessly and the grace
full tips curl over the crown
These sailor shapes become more and
more popular as the season advances.
They are almost universally becoming
and as they can be trimmed in many
different ways they appeal to all tastes.
For morning wear they are charming
In navy blue satin straw, lined with
white chip and trimmed with two long
white quilts. The same model Is also
made in white Japanese straw with
a lining Of black or nay picot.
Black satin sailor shapes are lavishly
trimmed with ostrich feathers or with
clusters OF WHITE WIVES, anu HdtS lot
girls wear are wreathcd in roses or in
mixed flowers and foliage. 1t is stlll
the fashion to mix several different
kinds of flowers on hat. This style
was launched at Monte Carlo very early
IN the season and when carried out by
q skilled milllner 1t is very decorative
and attractive.
Wildhowers OF all kinds are thrown
together In this way and sprays of ferns
are mixed in with them. A fascinating
wreath for a garden party hat was COM
posed OF golden yellow buttercups. wild
hyacnths. black satin daisies and ferns.
This wreath was to ,.dorn a fiat brim-
med hat made Of palest pink straw,
lined with black chip.
In the millinery world the two most
popular colors OF the moment are "bleu
hirondelle" and "A rich blue called "ciel
d'andalousie" f.anCret blue is very
much worn by women who go in for
picture fashions, and the exquisite pink
known as desert dawn IL to be seen on
many OF the moro expensive models,
Leghorn and Tuscan hats are seen
20 perfection al Lewis's and this famous
milllner IL using quantities of shaded
feathers on his hest models. Mime. Car
lier remains faithful to fiat brimmed
hats trimmed with curved mounts of
considerable size, but these mounts are
81, 10 If IN. hAT