The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-07-26

Of a famous actress who has long been
considered ono OF the best dressed
women In the French capital. This ac-
trcss is Marcelle Lender and the photo
graphs bear dates which range from
1899 20 1914.
Fifteen years long time when one
In considering the little ways Of such
a quick change artist as the autocrat
Fashion.
Let US for moment look at ono or
two facts. straight in the face.
Marcelle Lender and Nine. Bartet OF
the Coincide Franchise have long been
admittedly leaders IN the world OF
fashion-leaders of the best order, for
their word and their example have been
law 10 many of the best dressed society
women. I have before me on my desk
tho photographs already mentioned. OF
Mercelle Lender: 1 have also a series
of photographs of Nine. Bartet, which
cover the same years. And each series
tells the same tale.
The individuality OF tho woman has,
in every case. proved stronger than
fashion. Each gown. no matter whether
II n OF 1899. 1906. 1912 or 1914, bears
close relationship 10 Its fellow There
are little differences of "ligne." of
course In 1899 the sleeves are slightly
pulled on the shoulders; in 1911 they
nre quite fiat: In 1914 they are kimono
style These and many other trining
differences exist, but the important
point Is that in the case of the Lender
photographs, as in the case of those of
Nine. Bartot. the general outline re-
mains the same. The woman expresses
herself in her clothes.
Now this Is exactly what ought 10
happen with every woman. She ought
TO indicate her knowledge and appreci-
alton OF changing fashions, but she
ought never to permit these fashions
to obliterate or overshadow her own
individuality. Jean Worth has preached
this gospel so often that 1t should be
unnecessary 20 repeat it, but the idea
OF individuality seems the very last
thing the average woman considers.
She is Persian to-day and japanese
tomorrow She is fluffy and stately by
turns. She chooses a gown because
somebody tells her that It Is ''le dernier
cri" and Il never occurs to her to ask
intimate questions OF her own individ-
uality before making the choice. That
is why we encounter so many eccen-
tricities in the world of fashion-mea
ingless eccentrlcities, because they ex-
press nothing.
do not know how the bail Of dis
content in connection with present day
fashions was set rolling. or by whom
but Il IL certain that this discomfort Is
on the increase. Many newspapers, es-
pecially American newspapers, have said
hard things about the designs created
by the dressmakers OF Paris. They have
spoken OF them as absurd" and I'm
modest" and Theatrical" But the
writer's Of these criticisms do not realize
that they are, more often than not.
speaking of a subject which they do
not fully comprehend.
They speak of Paris fashions" as II
the magic words represented designs
which might he adopted by women In
general. There never was a greater
mistake than this. Most Of the sensa'
tlonal models exhibited in the show
rooms OF New York and London were
originally created for some pretty actress
or Photographic beauty whose chief OBJ
jcct in life Is to attraction attention
Very many of the best models created
by the leading dress artists of Paris are
much too subdued and quiet TO suit the
requirements of foreign buyers never
theless they are tho real Paris fashions
which are worn by exclusive Parsennes
I have often pointed out to English
and American women that the secret o.
real Paris fashions cannot be learned II
day. l have also pointed out tina
the society woman OF 30 or 40 canno
do better than follow in the steps o
Nine. Bartet. while younger women vii
find an ideal model in Gabrielle Dorzlat
For the bud with plenty OF pin money
there is no better model than Mile. Jan,
Renouardt.
1t Is predicted that tho season a,
Trouville-Deauville will be specially
brilliant this year. The villas are
nearly all rented and the booking a
the big hotels Is very considerable
Deauville is determined to push Itself
into prominence.
few years ago this charming sea
eide resort was proud OF the fact that II
was considered rather slow when com.
pared with brilliant Trouville. but al
that has been changed. Deauvlle Is
now the smartest OF tho smart. Per.
sonally / consider II one OF tho idea
holiday resorts Of Europe.
Beer IL doing some wonderful thing:
for the Trouville season. Many OF thu
best models created by this house SHOW
clever combination OF embroidered
Odtiste, washable chiffon and taffeta
am now referring to gowns intended
for afternoon wear. Beer has som,
specially b@autiful specimens OF EN-
nroldered batiste; for example, dee
shade OF butcher blue embroidered II
WASH silks, the colors being in sub
dued tints OF green, blue and faded rose
A charming model had a gathered
skirt Of this material, with long tunc
ais, gathered, in dark blue wash tull
and a swathed sash of black taffeta
The Cursagc was semi TRANSPARENT an,