The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-01-25

They have been preaching the gospel of
individuality In season and out; they
have been making special designs for
women we'll known in society, and these
designs have been carefully copied by
some OF the leading dressmakers In
Paris. 1t was a movement worthy of
all praise, for 1t is largely owing to IL
that classic draperies and classic out
Zines are once more gliding into view.
think every one will now agree that
the hobble skirt was a horror. quite az
great horror from an artistic point
OF view as the extraordinary bodily
contortions which SO many smart
women adopted last season and which
the Londoners have agreed to describe
as the slinker SLOUGH" With all these
contortions and absurdities we have
finished. We are now going to receive
with open arms Greek draperies which
| would have delighted the soul of Pray
fteles. We are going to cultivate grace
full outlines which recall those of the
Venus de Milo. We are-this is al
| most certain--even going to revive the
stately movements Of the minuet.
The fad of the moment in the more
exclusive Partisan circles is the prac-
tise OF hygienic exercise. This fad is
carried SO far In some cases that
have even heard the ubiquitous tango
referred to as being so very hygieuic
Indeed / know of one teacher of the
tango who Is making a nice little for
tune by teaching the steps Of this fas-
i cinating dance as sort of gymnastic
exercise. He speaks of his '.cour de
danse" rs a modern school for draw
ing room gymnastics. This Is going
rather far, but | mention it Just to show
that the Parisiennes are preparing tn
regard the graceful movements OF the
body from serious point Of view: thew
are, In fact. becoming unconsciously
Greek In thought
Several months ago I spoke of the
revival of pleated skirts and draperies
which was approaching in the world
OF fashion. At that time no one seemed
to dream OF accordion or sun raw Meats
Nearly all the dress experts were loudly
| asserting that skirts were tighter than
ever. But knew what I was saving
In intimate conversations with certain
OF the eminent dressmakers who ruIe
Paris 30 far as dress is eoncerne,
gathered information which proved very
useful
The change did not come suddenly
Real changes in matters of dress never
come suddenly. There are first moa,-
fcations. thensexperiments on the stage
or at the races. Gradually, often very
slowly. tho eyes become accustomed to
cnange OF outline. Suddenly. In "a
single hour, people become aware thai
complete change has come into exist.
ence. Nearly always they exciair
against the vagartes Of fashion. h,t
In reality they have been warned again
and again.
so far as pleated skirts are concerned
IL is SAFE to say that they will be uni
Eersaiiy worn this spring-pieated skirts
on ali kinds; and in addition, pleated
corsages and draperies In the case nj
| severe tailored suits the pleats will he
simiiar to those OF a Scotchman's kilt
quite nat and full each pleat being
tucked under the one that follows II In
order that the skirt may hang heavy
ana straight On the other hand. for
evening gowns and afternoon dresses
OF an elaborate order accordion and sun
| ray pleats are used.
one OF the leading dressmakers in
the rue de la Paix is making a speciality
OF crinkled pleats which are exactly
similar to the tiny folds seen on the
drapertes Of antique Greek statues.
She is applying these fine pleats
to an exquisite make Of real
Indian muslin which is supple as
chiffon and yet firm enough to
give good wear. 1t is not possible TO
imagine anything more artistic or grace
full than oyster white Indian muslin
gowns OF this order. The little crinkled
pleats cling in about the figure and
display its outlines in a charming
fashion. and then lengths of pale pastel
tinted velvet ribbons are wound round
the hips and bust. confining the muslin
'pleAts and moulding the form in true
Greek style.
At recent fashionable premiere the
Countess Ignattev (the former Helene
OkhotinkoW) wore one of these new
Indian muslin robes. The corsage was
very closely pleated and then drawn
across the bust in q manner which was
at once artistic and becoming. There
were no sleeves. but several diamond
bands were worn high up ON the right
arm.
The waistline was short and the waist
itself absolutely natural in outline.
There was swathed ceinture OF palest
shell pink velvet ribbon, and this ribbon
. was wound round~the hips under the
pieated draperies and caught in by an
immense rose low down at the left side.
The skirt was round and closely pleated
from waist to hem. II was mounted
over sheath robe composed OF silver
tulle and the dainty little cothurnes
were made OF silver tissue with immense
diamond buckles on the low fronts It
was delicious gown and the Comtesse
looked lovely In It.
Her husoand. who II Military attache
OF the Russian Embassy in Paris, Is a
great favorite with the Cxar. and when
any OF the Russian Grand Dukes or
Grand Duchesses are tn Paris the Com
tesse IgnatIev entertaIns them lavisflY.
Recently she gave q dinner whicfvcrr-
Ated something OF = sensation There
were forty guests and the tables were
entirely decorated with sweet pea bios
SONS in various coiors. At each table
the candle shades matched the tints Of
the sweet peas and the candles stood Ia
tall candlssticks made OF QIigree silver
All tho fruit and honbon dishes were In
the same fragile silver, and "tout Paris"
talked Of the exquisite effects which had
been obtained in = thoroughly poetic
manner.