The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-08

Il percentage oil ulRn COllarS anu
guimpcs among the new neck
wear
The low collar and low cut neck IF tho
daytime frock have been comfortable
80 far as physical sensation goes. bus
hey have been hard ON the spirits of
he women who did not look we'll in
hem; and what Is physical comfort
oompared with wounded vanity?
The change has come gradually. Just
about the time the last recalcitrant sub.
mittcd to the apparently unavoidable
and allowed her drcssmakcr To make
her look ten years older 10y cutting her
daytime blouses and bodiccs down more
pr less radically at the neck the women
who had launched the daytime dccol.
letsEe began 10 roll their collars up
against their necks in the back and on
he sides, thereby in many cases con-
forrlng boon upon the general public,
Tor II there is anything less slightly than
he front Of an unyouthful and scrawnN
NJ too plump neck 1t Is the napc or side
view OF that same neck.
The throat was left uncovered in
front. 1t is still left free in majority
ot the guimpes and collars. but tho all
ground high collar has appeared on
some OF the very smartcst frocks and
he high sides and back cling more and
moro closely. proclaim themselves more
and more asscrtivcly.
There is no doubt about b. What
neither cold weather nor doctors pro-
tests could have done fashions mandate
has accomplished. The low cut neck
II the daytime frock Is passing In its
extreme phase seldom becoming. often
exaggerated to the point of utter vul-
sarity, always in bad taste. il has
passed.
What fashion lends To the daytime
bodice it subtracts from the evening
bodice. thereby maintaining balance,
but that is altogether another story.
One of the most severe versions Of
he new high nccNwcar is the perfectly
plain guimpe of cream white satin hu;-
toninG up the middle front OF both
chemsettc and high. close. straigh, CO.
lar with little satin covered buttons and
finished around the top e the collar
simply by little cord of the ,a,iu The
Ioftncss Of the material which is lined
only with net and he'd high ahou. the
throat by supports as slight and flexible
as those used for net collars. Keeps this
rather severe guimpe from an appear
ance of stiffness. and while satin s. not
as becoming mex the face ~ net or
lace. there is n certain JOY in putting on
guimpc that Is not likely 10 80 to-
pieces in a few wearingS. and then this
satin affair has q very chic air when
worn with a tailored fr1ck.
one may have long. c,u~t n,t.ug
cream satin cuff, 20 match tN" .uimpc.
buttoucd up the outside with u,tir -ut'u
buttons, and they lpol, uuc"mmpuly wei.
hut Of course they soil easily and can
not be Numbered a. can the urgandN
md piqu" cuffs Of similar typ, which
have been generally worn with roll
Collars To- match
In ivory satin. ,u". t'- good .upkius
collar and cum sets. which have deep
plated cuffs, held fiat hy two rows ~
stitching running around the arm.
while the collar is tight. high band 81
hack velvet with pump bow Of the
velv"' in front aud two inch plating
~ satin standing up ana rollins over
slightly across the bach.
There are many variations nn this
type of collar, some OF the bands being
in black MORE instead of velvet, and The
plaitings being made in net. lace, or
candy or fine lawn.
The high, tight band of velvet or
MORO Is used. too with ruohc all
around its top, the ruohes varying in
width from an inch tn chin oblitcrat-
ing width Of four inches. Thcs" all
around ruchcs or plaitings are not for
every face. In fact. they arc becoming
to few women. while the bard with
piaitings al the hack IS generally be-