The Washington herald., 1914-04-05

terogation mark with its uncurled ends
toward the back. The shape of this hat
and its beautiful color make it one OF
the distinctive pieces Of spring millinery
set seen. even In the diplomatic circle The
crown is possibly four or five inches high,
nat and well defined. The brim is of the
same width and turned up closely all
about the crown with slight suggestion.
II is unfaced but finished on the edge by
a narrow line of self-colored velvet. which
also appears at its base. Like all hats
of 1914 this reveals the coiffure as well
as the brow. This hat topped a semi
tailored costume of Deauville suiting, a
new wool fabric matching the hat In
color. with the chimisette and broad but
not deep color and cuffs OF the open
jacket in embroidered batiste. The lat
ter in an unbleached tone.
The tendency to femenize the tailored
suit begun in Paris several years ago,
but restricted in London, New York and
the larger American cities, appears to
have made itself felt at last Even that
pioneer dress reformer DR.. Mary Walker
ts wearing frills in her really truly coat
sleeves. although her little trousers are
as man-like as ever. The batiste collar
or pleated revere in place Of the plain
SOhdI III Slh Ut Is one OF the
signs of the times just as surely as s
the shaped neck blouse for all hours
of the day.
Mrs. Victor "'--'---an looks particular
ly smart, as well as handsome, in a
tailored suit of dark rough cloth with
which she wears one of the modisn
blouses of yellow chiffon finished in sew
eral lengthwise rows Of fine knit pleat-
ings. A double necklace of beads In
clouded amber carries along the color
scheme as well as the feminine attributes
Of the pretty garment which used to be
called a shirt waist. but is now always
spoken of as a blouse in polite society,"
Young Mrs. Cushman's hat is a wide
brimmed black straw braid with well
proportioned crown trimmed with a very
graceful cluster of plummage showing
long but not stiff quilts of dark hue, with
their base covered in canary or oriole
coloring.
A pretty gown Of springtime aspect
was worn by Mrs. Robert Lansing. on
Wednesday afternoon. when she received
many congratulations on the conirma-
ton Of her husband in his new office as
Counselor of the State Department.
This was a typical afternoon frock, a
dancing frock il its wearer wished to
dance rather than to talk, and suited to
any formal occasion between noon and
z o'clock.
OF small figured gray silk in a gray
that shades to pink rather than blue,
the round skirt was covered in three
graduated ripple fiounces that dipped a
little in the back. The top was a bre-
telle bodice over white lace, a present.
day model Of the old-time peasant waist
Of Mrs. Lansing's childhood. The hat
worn with this was of fine Milan or
hemp in faded" violet with a sugges-
ton of pink, also fashionably faded. with
its trimming pink roses in a natural
old-fashioned garden coloring. All of
which was most becoming to the young
matron who inherits the premature white
hair from her father. Hon. John w.
Foster, as well as a large share Of the
mental qualities Of that distinguished
authority on law and statesmanship.
The rejuvenation of the polk bonnet
has been successfully accomplished by
the Paris designer, whose exclusive out
put goes to one well-known New York
firm. from which Mrs Louis F. Corea
buys her millinery. This young matron,
a native Of Washington. and the wife of
the former Minister from Nicaragua, at
tended several afternoon receptions in
the last week IN bonnet with strings,
which was nevertheless a very stylish
modern and becoming creation.
To begin at the end rather than at the
beginning. the strings are streamers OF
inch wide. two toned velvet. hanging
from the back of the bonnet far below
the waist line.
The bonnet was of mysterious green. a
shade bearing the same relation to a
well-kept lawn that ''tete d'negre" does
to brown. The front was distinctly a
poke tilted slightly forward, but instead
of covering Mrs Corea's head in the
manner of poke bonnet of 1880 or q
Army bonnet Of today. this
creation spread itself out and
then turned sharp upward angle, pre-
senting nat brim four inches, deep
across the back. This brim was faced In
satin. matching the straw in color. and
at either side Of the aforementioned
strings starting from a small demure
bow, was placed deep crimson rose. The
gown this topped was a demi-toilct of
some one Of the new fancy silk weaves
in neutral tint, matching the lighter
tone shown In the bonnet strings.
While all the world Of fashion zclnowl-
edges this is to be season of color. with
crepes and tulles. silks and gauzes. to
carry on the work Of the rich brocades