davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17
PERFUMES WITH THE ANcIENTS
AND THE MODERNS-Part ~.

Many flowers give forth sweet odors
that seem impossible tc catch and trans
form into a base for perfumery. and in
some climates flowers are absolutely use
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17
GOING TO LAwRENCEvILLE

Leland B. Johnson. son of Mr.. and
Mrs. Lewis E. Johnson, of 241 South
Fourth street, Steelton, is attending
the Lawrenceville Academy this year,
and has left for Lawrenceville to take
up his studies.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17
GERMAN COMMITS SUICIDE

BY Associated Press
Philadelphia, Sept. II. - Charles
Meurer, a retired manufacturer, COM
mitted suicide at his home in Wyn-
cote, near here, to-day by inhalins
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17
Madame Ise'bell
Reveals of the Making
and Those of Animal Son1etim Used

for It is too strong. but Il enters into the
composition of a great many toilet wa
ters. 1t is also valuable in perfuming
toilet creams and powders, a consider
able cost of the manufacturing OF which
lies in the perfume. ..
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17
Secret Of the Trade.

trust that this explanation of the man
ner In which flower odors are combined
and modified to obtain o pleasant result,
the name of which may be quite unlike
its source, will not shock my readers. II
there is a dash OF deception, there is still
plenty of poetry and romance in perfume
making. To preserve and catch the chem
istry of nature the chemistry of man is
necessary. It is perhaps to avoid hurt
ing feminine sensibillties that the custom
is growing among perfumers to choose
name for an extract that suggests mood
or a thought rather than a flower. We
have grown beyond the appreciation of
single odor such as the rose or the violet;
what we demand today is a harmonious
gamut of scents that pleases the olfactorY
nerves as a strange chord of music does
the ear. Southern Nights to us sug-
gests a mingling of sweet odors soft all
most to consciousness; Les Beaux Vieux
Temps" the name of a celebrated
French perfume, has always suggested to
me the odor that should hover about the
delicate scenes that Watteau paints. Art
consists often in choosing the best from
nature and a combination of exquisite
odors is often more satisfactory than that
of single flower
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17


Mediterranean are the source of the es-
sential oils that form the basis for all the
high priced perfumes made. From other
parts of the world comes a small proper
tion of perfume-yielding flowers, but Bull
garia and the famous garden spot on the
Mediterranean seem favored above all
others in this respect.
Why California Does Not Yield Per
fumes.
In California flowers, especially roses,
hellotrope and violets. grow freely and
TO large size, giving forth plentitude of
odors A great deal OF capital has been
invested In this part of the world start
ing gardens for the cultivation OF per-
fume- yielding blossoms. but thus far In
vain. Whether the French and the Bull
garians hold the secret of the manufac-
turing of the essential oils, or whether
certain places are so peculiarly favored
by nature that 1t is impossible to re-
produce them, 1t is difficult to say; any
way, since perfume making became a
commerce in Europe the center of the in
dustry has been Grasse, and the descen-
dants of the original perfume makers now
ply the trade and alone possess its Sc
erets
Action ,of the Sun on Flowers.
It has been discovered by chemists that
the rays of the sun bring out the odori-
ferrous qualities valuable for perfume
making. In Grasse and its neighborhood
not only does the sun provide a steady
warmth for a large number of months
of the year. but it is reflected back by
the surrounding mountains. These same
hills form a complete shelter from storm
and wind and the air is singularly pure
and free from dust These climatic and
geographical advantages are not repro
duced in any other part OF the world.
The flowers from which the famous Bull
garian otto OF rose is made are not large,
but very compact and singularly sweet
The peculiar quality of this rose is exl
planned by the soil in which 1t grows. 1t
is gravel full of minerals. small per-
centage of which is absorbed by the flow
Or roots in moisture.
How Rose OIL ls Made.
/, The rose oil or otto obtained from Bull
garia is produced by distillation when
the liquid is finally drawn of and allowed
60 cool. In the South OF France the sys-
tenn of obtaining the essential oil is called
enfieurage and consists of impregnating
fat with the distilled odor. and then by
special process getting rid of the solvent
The pure oil obtained in its concentrated
form does not smell at all like the flower
from which it comes. Now comes in the
art and secret of perfume-making, the
proper mixing and treating of odors to
produce a perfume delicate, agreeable,
reminiscent and lasting.
The flowers that are particularly rich in
perfume and capable of many combina-
tions are rose jasmine lavender. oris.
violet and patchouly. The cultivation Of
Jasmine is very extensive in the south of
France. Many acres of land are given
over to nothing but jasmine plants and
every peasant grows a tiny plot which
- picks over daily, selling the flowers
% the big gardener who markets them
FOR him. Jasmine perfume is rarely sold
without the addition of some other odor,
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17
Necessarily High Priced.

Perfumes are of necessity high in price.
AS we have learned the flower extract
that serves as a base is culled from the
flowers with infinite care, and the COM
pounding and mingllng of them takes
time and skill. Cheap perfumes are bet
ter avoided; they are compounded of
chemically made oils and the cheaper
grades of animal perfume. If one cam
not afford the first class essences, better
use only pure eau de Cologne or some OF
the mild toilet waters which are refresh-
ing and have a slight, pleasant odor.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17
Perfumes Of Animal Origin.

The principle perfumes from animal
origin are musk. civet and ambergris and
some small proportion of these is In
cluded in most extracts. Musk, most un-
pleasant alone, used in combination with
certain flower odors has the quality of
emphasizing and rendering permanent the
original odor. Ambergris which comes
from the whale is most useful in COM
bination on account of it's lasting quail
ties. When combined with rose and va
nilla 1t makes the famous extract d'ambro
which is so permanent that clothing per-
fumed with 1t will retain the odor even
after 1t has passed through the laundry.
The fashion or habit of decrylng musk
has grown up of late years and yet,
strange to say. perfumers state that all
OF the most popular perfumes contain
some small proportion of 1t. The name
musk for some reason has become asso-
ciate with heavy smelling, artificial per-
fumes. and for that reason its presence
In perfumes is not mentioned CONNER
cially.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-09-17

sential oils that form the basis for all the
high priced perfumes made. From other
parts of the world comes a small proper
ton of perfume-yieldlng flowers but Bull
garia and the famous garden spot on the
Mediterranean seem favored above all
others in this respect.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13
DOCTORS UNABLE TO AGREE
Question Whether Brown Bread Is
Superior to White Still Forms
Subject for Argument.

White bread was said by experts,
or by those who claim to be experts, to
be much superior to brown bread a
few months ago, and we were told that
the idea of eating graham bread or
any bread containing part or all of the
bran Of wheat and other portions of
the grain which are taken out In the
boiling process was old-fashioned and
might lead to injury. Now come the
medical inspectors of the French army,
d group of very distinguished physi-
'cians ana scientists, who say that
bolting pushed beyond a certain limit
eliminates the useful element OF flour
In more than one respect and does
nothing, but improve the color OF the
bread. When white bread Is used ex-
eluslvely they have found that the
men eat and need more meat, but
when the flour is only partially bolted
and only the coarser particles of the
bran are removed the soldiers are In
better health and they eat less meat,
which results in superior economy and
efficiency at the same time. The meth
cd of boiling flour was invented some
centuries ago. and 1t seems about time
THAT the relative values OF white and
lunbolted flour were settled. but the
doctors can no more agree about 1t
than they can, about the therapeutic
value of alcohel.-New York CONNER.
cial.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13
HEAD ITCHED AND BURNED

Goa Greenville Ave, Staunton. Va
my head broke out in pimples which
festered. 1t itched me SO that l
would scratch It till my head got al
most in raw sore. My hair came out
gradually and 1t was dry and lifeless.
Dandruff fell on my coat collar till l
was ashamed of it. My head had been
that way all summer. itching and
burning till l couldn't sleep in any
peace.
Il tried salves but it looked like
they made It worse. l got -- but
1t did me no good so | got cake OF
Cuticura Soap and box of the Cuticura
Ointment and you don't know what a
relief they gave me. In two weeks my
head was we'll" (Signed) j. l. Smith,
Oct. 2S, 1912.
Cuticura Soap and Ointment sold
throughout the world. Sample OF each
. free with 32-p. Skin Book. Address post
card "Cuticura. Dept. l., Boston. ADV
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13
What He Needed.

After Jack Sullivan, the witness
who charged that Becker was
framed up" by the gamblers, left the
witness stand, 1t took him consider.
able time to cool off. Sullivan created
an uproar in court by defying every
one and giving his answers as he saw
fit. Some friends met him on the
street outside the court building.
Jack" said one, come over at
the corner and get something cool to
drink"
Not me-" he replied, wiplng the
perspiration from his face. IF |
took a drink now in my condition I'd
crack a boiler. What need is a two
or three days snooze in somebody's s
icehouse."
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13
Anecdote Of Sargent.

Partisan disciples of an illustrious
and rather pompous French painter
are telling a neat story against him.
Last autumn he was, with most OF
European society, in Venice. lie saw
painter sketchlng the view OF tho
Grand canal. Some innocent amateur.
no 'pubt He went up, looked at the
sketch. and liked II. Not bad, sir;
not BAD NJ ALL" he said, and added.
"You ought 20 exh'J;t IN Paris. Send
something to the Art..tes Franca.s.
and mention my name. Here Is my
card"
The amateur" took the card,
thanked hts patron. and said, 81 must
also introduce myself am an Ameri-
can. My name is John Singer Sar-
gent. have exhibited in Paris once
or twice already"
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

Some time back, when Sir Herbert
Tree was taking the waters at Marlen-
bad he was accosted by a perfect
stranger.
Begging your pardon, sir" said
the latter, but aren't you Beerbohm
Tree, the actor?"
mo. certainly not" replied Sir Her
bert unblushlngly.
I'm very sorry" said the other.
"but | thought you were. You look
so much like the pictures have seen
OF him"
Il can assure YOU that you are mis-
taken" persisted Sir Herbert
well. didn't mean TO insult you.
sir" observed the stranger, but
did think you looked like him"
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

The sweet young thing sat in the
stern of the boat, unmindful OF the
agonies Of the inexperienced oarsman,
who tugged and blistered himself at
the paddles.
What do you suppose Wen have
for supper in camp?" she mused
sweetly.
Floating island, think" painted
the young man grimly. THAT same
island has passed me, going up stream,
three times since I've been trying to
make it to the landing"
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13
AFRO-AMER|CAN CULL|NCS

E. c., Branson, professor of rural
economics at the State Normal school,
Athens, Ga, recently addressed the
Southern Sociological congress on the
subject Of negro progress. What he
had to say is gratifying to those who
hope to see the American negro ele-
waited In education. citizenship and
ambition. Ii Professor Branson Is
right, the American negro is working
out his own salvation. not In the
town, but in the country. In the
southern states in 1910 the ratio Of
negro farm workers ran far ahead of
that of negro population in general.
For instance. In South Carolina. the
negroes were So per cent of the popu-
lation, but 6S per cent of the farm
workers. In Mississippi during The
last census period negro farmers in
creased at rate nearly two and one
half times greater than the rate of
Increase for negro population in gen
eral. In Georgia the difference was
even more pronounced The drift
everywhere among the negroes of the
South is from the city TO the country.
Southern cities that between 1865
and 1850 were In way of being over
wheimed by the negroes. now show.
In some cases. : diminishing ratio.
In the South there ERE about one hun
dred thousand negroes engaged In
teaching. preaching. the practise Of
medicine and law and in business en-
terprises These are, OF course. up
ward-looking negroes But on the
farms of the South there are $500 900
negroes. and most of these are look
ing upward. too. In the farm regions
the southern negro is achieving a new
economic status. He is rapidly rising
out of farm tenancy to the farm own
ership. He is becoming to the South
what the peasant proprietor" is to
France and Belgium. He is finding
that bank books and barns are more
important at present than ballot boxes.
Nearly one-fourth Of all the negro
farmers I'm the South own the farms
they cultivate. This rural property
is valued at nearly $500,000.O00. The
Russian serfs, after so years OF free
dom, have not made greater head.
way. They have not done so well,
indeed, in their conquest OF illiteracy.
During the last census period the
negroes of the South increased less
than ten per cent in population, but
they increased II per cent in the
ownership OF farms. against a 12 per
cent Increase OF white farm owners.
The negro farmer now owns $1,000
600 worth Of farm implements and
tools, Sl77000,000 worth OF farm ami.
mails and $273,OOO.OOO worth Of farm
lands and buildings. In 1850 Georgia
negroes owned 5SO66l acres of farm
land, but in 1910 they owned 1,607,97
acres. Negro property upon the tax
lists OF Georgia now amounts in value
to s34,000,000. The facts show n
dwindling ratio of negro population in
every southern state except Arkansas
and Oklahoma; a decreasing ratio in
the cities of the South, but an increas.
ing ratio In the farming regions OF
every southern state except Louisiana
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

Hampton institute. the pioneer
among the schools for teaching ne
groes and Indians. has decided that
in the future It will not give a diploma
TO any boy or girl who has not re-
ceived definite vocational training.
According 10 Or II. II. Frissell, prin.
cipal OF the Institution, the result OF
this will be a better prepared body OF
rural teachers. A great many OF the
Hampton graduates go back among
their own people to teach the things
they have learned in school,
in order to make their training
more effective" says Dr. Frissell,
much thought has been given to the
selection OF new students. The ap-
plication department reports that
2,S2s letters have been written this
year; 1886 application blanks have
been sent out; 909 have been re-
turned; 3S4 admission cards have
been issued, and 237 applicants have
entered"
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

Hampton Court palace, London, may
become the home of Lady Scott, wild.
ow OF the South pole explorer, King
George, 1t is said having decided to
make the offer. These apartments are
occupied principally by the widows Of
men who have greatly distinguished
themselves in the service OF the coun-
try in a naval, military or civil ca
pacity. The only stipulation made by
the king when he offers a suite Is that
the recipient may not sublet rooms
to any one without obtaining permis-
sion from the court.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13
Tralnlnn German soldlers.

Targets OF various kinds mounted
on tracks and drawn over the field by
cables on electrlcally-drlven drums
give German soldiers very realistic
dummy enemy for gun practise Tho
limitations OF infantry and cavalry are
simple silhouettes, and these are made
to carry our various maneuvers. un-
der perfect electric control The In
fantry, for instance. march slowly at
first, break into run at the first fire.
and drop automatically into the first
trench. with only the heads visible.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

The party OF negroes assembled by
"Chief" Alfred Charles Sam have
sailed to establish a colony on the Gold
Coast OF Africa. The steamer Curl
tyba, chartered by Sam last winter
and brought 20 Portland, Me-, for over
hauling. has been changed from Cuban
to British registry and now bears the
name OF Liberia.
I'VE will first go to Norfolk to take
on our bunker coal" said Sam, "and
we will then head for Galveston, where
many OF the colonists are waiting for
us, We will have accommodations for
few over sixty"
Capt Mckenzie of the Holy Ghost
and Us society will be master of the
steamer.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

In Stavanger Norway, even peas
ants and fishermen use electric lights.
The engineer of the municipal elec-
trio plant has organized class OF
housewives for instruction in the use
of electricity-heated cooking appar-
atus.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

The Times OF Ceylon has been In
vestigating the possibility that Cey-
Ion may be able to produce raw ra-
mine fiber for supplying the ramine
mills of the United States aud Eu-
rope
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

The New York Housewives league
has engaged several women to act
as inspectors in their crusade against
cold storage food
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

Ever see a neighbor who was par
ticularly well liked? Sure!
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

The man who gets the most of II
seldom gets the best OF 1t.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

The pastors of the colored churches
of Indianapolis conducted memorial
service in the auditorium of the col
ored Y. NJ. C. A. under the auspices Of
the Martin r. Delaney post of the G..
A. r. and the Women's Relief corps.
The Rev. d. p. Roberts of Bethel
church was master Of ceremonies. The
proclamation authorizing the observ-
ance was read by Miss Susie Wilson
The Rev. C. w. Lewis conducted the
Scripture lesson. The Rev. ]. r. Han
yey offered the invocation.
Short addresses were made by the
Rev. w. II. Weaver, ]. II. Lott, the
Rev. II. l., Herod, the Rev. w. S.
Hodge and the Rev. Father A. H. Me
loney. A choir composed OF members
selected from the choirs of the vari-
Gus churches sang. A parade by the
veterans. headed by the Y. NJ. C. A..
band preceded the services. Several
lodges acted as escorts for the G.. A.
X. men.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

For gals use Hanford's Balsam
Adv.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

Results OF anti.typhoid incubation
among the French troops in Algeria
and Morocco during 1912 were report.
ed by Professor Vincent at the recent
international medical congress In Lon.
don. In western Morocco, while about
Id per cent among the non-inoculated
contracted the disease. only one in
5000 among the inoculated did SO.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

The average output of coal to each
person employed In the industry in
the United States is a little more
than 900 tons, in the United Kingdom
266 tons. in Germany 24O tons, in
France 1873 tons, and in Belgium l64
tons.
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

1t is easier to apologize to a big man
than to n little one
The Tulsa star. [volume] (Tulsa, Okla.) 1913-1921, 1914-06-13

Judge McCants Stewart of the su-
preme court of Liberia says that the
affairs of the African republic are In
better shape than for years past, ow-
ing to its financial reorganization un-
der the guidance OF Reed Page Clark.
who was loaned by the state depart
ment to handle the customs receipts
OF the nation, In connection with the
assumption OF the national debt by
Kuhn, Loeb & Co Clark. as acting
chief was assisted by officials of the
English, French and German govern
ments.
Stewart says II was some time be-
fore the system got under way, on
account of the bond issue, but II Is
now very successful, and there is no
friction similar to that of Persia dur
Ing Shuster's stay at Teheran. The
British Bank of West Africa has a
new building at Monrovia, with four
branches
A German firm has asked for a con-
cession for a railway in Monrovia to
run 100 miles inland Another Ger
man III III, anu Lever lut EHBllSH SOdp
manufacturer. have both sought the
palm oil concessions.
II is understood that American capi.
tai has not shown great. interest yet
I'm Liberian operations, but 1t would
undoubtedly be welcomed, because it
Is not considered that financial invest.
mehts by American merchants and
capitalists would be followed by any
policy of Imperialism such as might
follow the Investment of German or
French money.
President Howard. according to
Judge Stewart, is having a very sue
cessful diplomatic administration.
Major Charles Young, a West Pointer
has done great work in organizing the
constabulary. Judge Stewart will sail
from Liverpool in company with
George Washington Buckner. the new
American minister to Liberia, and
Lieutenant Martin, who will assist
Major Young with the constabulary.