The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1914-07-24

"a chenen, the first town on the
k Swiss frontier, occupies but a
few hours, and is probably the
most entrancingly beautiful railway
Journey in Europe. The succession Of
mountains, valleys, lakes, ravines, vii
lagos, precipices and waterfalls keeps
one alert each moment for fear or
missing some glorious prospect. The
only drawback is the long ST. Gothard
tunnel (nine miles) and the many
smaller ones, which not only tanta-
lize one by continually shutting out
the view. but at times make the at
mosphere In the coaches almost suf-
locating, writes James Knapp in the
Philadelphia Record.
Goeschenen is a charmingly pictur-
esque village situated at an elevation
OF some $500 feet, and surrounded by
high peaks. But we have not calculated
on the change in temperature that we
would find from merely crossing the
Alps and getting into a somewhat high
er altitude. We were ahead of the
season and found that we had the
hotel quite to ourselves. Although We
shivered pretty constantly our stay of
two days was not without enjoyment.
Best Hotels In World.
We had heard that the Swiss hotels
were the best in the world, and were
not disappointed at this our first ex-
perience. We were served with an
excellent dinner in a coy, glass-in-
pretty garden.
From the windows of our room, big
and airy, we had upon two sides ma
jestic views of great snow-capped
peaks down whose rocky, many-col-
oTed faces fell a dozen musical cas-
cades formed from the melting snow
banks. Our beds were deep and downy.
heated with hotwater jugs, and over
the counterpart was small feather
bed to give additional warmth.
Goeschenen has two claims upon the
attention of the tourist besides its
natural scenic beanty-one, that 1t Is
the northern terminus of the great
tunnel, whose huge black mouth
yawns wide at the edge of the village;
the other that 1t is the starting point
for the drive to Hospenthal and over
the Furka Pass; but we were too early
for this, as the mountain passes were
yet closed by snow, SO had to content
ourselves with long tramps over the
excellent roads that sometimes led us
well up into the hills, and strolls be-
side the picturesque and turbulent lit
tie river Reuss.
Deciding to try lower altitude in
the hope of warmer weather (for
Goeschenen proved rather cold for one
who had just come up from the hot
plains of Lombardy), yet desiring to
stay among the mountains. we went
the little village of Amsteg. En- route
we made the famous loop of the st.
Gothard, about the hamlet of Wassen,
bit of railway engineering that is
worth travelling long way to see.
Here the line passes through three
tunnels, all sharply curved, and a wide
double loop which runs first below the
village. I3.055 feet altitude). returning
at an equal height with it, and finally
passing above; thus attaining Cat
Goeschenen) the level of the great
tunnel.
The mountains above Amsteg are
especially attractive In their rugged
outlines and color. Here we spent
many pleasant days. climbing to their
lower levels or wandering along the
smooth roads Of the narrow valley.
This little town, with absolutely no
attraction for tourists besides the
mountains, has four hotels, and finds
itself thronged In midsummer. At any
one Of these inns good comfortable &C.
commodations may be had at to
francs per day--clean, pleasant rooms
wholesome. palatable food and cour
teous attendance which seems at least
to have some real concern as to your
welfare. We stopped at rather IA
nous old place whose beamed kitchen
with its great array of spotless and