The Yale expositor., 1914-04-09
DAY Of SEVERE
SUITS IS Pissed
DreSsy Effects Take Their Place
in the Best of the Tailored
Models.
SOFT STUFFS NOW IN VOGUE
Newest WeaVes Of Taffeta Promise to
Give Better Service Than Did tho
Sitter Varieties-Moire In
Light Weis..t a Smart"
Material.

~ ONE are the severe tailleurs OF
u other days, and in their places
are dressy models which SAVIOR
more of the dressmaker's art than tn
tailor's. 1t is by means OF the cut or
the skirt, the fare of the jacket, the
material and the color that the dressy
effect is obtained, rather than by elab-
crate trimmings. for, with the excep-
ton of fancy cuffs and collar, very lit
tie trimming Is used.
or course, the trig. we'll cut, strictly
tailored suit will be worn. especially
on this side of the Atlantic, for the
American woman is very partial TO
this type OF costume. 1t is very gen.
orally becoming to the average Ameri-
can figure; in fact, more so than the
fussier, dressier type of suit which APP
peals to the Parisienne. But 1t will
not be worn as extensively as in the
past, when II did duty from early
morning until the lights were lit. Even
as a utility suit it will have a serious
rival in the dressier type Of costume.
Demand for silk Suits.
The wool cloths are made so very
soft and supple these days that they
can be draped and rufIied and punched
up as easily as the silken fabrics. The
vogue for dressy tailored creations,
however, has brought about a demand
for silk materials for the so-called
tailored costumes. Taffeta, moire, the
dull faced satins, faille, crepe de chine,
crepe meteor and silks of this Tx are
being used for the threepiece cos
tunes and the skirt and jacket suits.
Though extremely soft, the new
weaves of taffeta promise to give bet
ter service than the sitter varieties.
whose rustic was sweet music In the
ears of the "fashionably" ambitious In
bygone years. Some Of the better
weaves OF these new taffetas do not
look like taffeta at all, but resemble a
lusterless satin with tiny, cordlike
line. Others are very light In weight,
and though known under the generic
title Of chiffon taffeta," they are much
softer and finer than the weaves for
msrly recognized under this name.
Creepy Weaves In Demand.
All OF the creepy weaves are very
much in demand, with crepe de chine
and crepe meteor as the favorites.
Equally popular are poplin weaves, the
failles, bengalines and others Of this
type. And though generally thought
of as a winter material, MORE In the
light weight will be very smart. The
MORE effect Is also produced on GER
tain of the satin weaves, and has Ia
ken the place of the matelasse designs
Of last spring. Moire and crepe de
chine are oftentimes, combined in the
same costume, with the creepy goods
used in the skirt and the moire In the
saucy little jacket.
When to the dressy effect OF the
silk material 10 added the "dress-up"
touch of color, the costume bids fair
to deserve the title OF semi-tailored,
regardless Of It's cut Undoubtedly
the all-black and all-whlte costumes
win be most popular, the former be
cause they are always good looking
and enjoy the paradoxical position of
being dressy and yet plain, and the lat
ter because they are the development
OF fad started this winter among the
smartly dressed women. The new
greens are sure to be well liked, and II
an all-green suit is considered too
striking II may be combined with
gray. The brighter shades of blue are
ousting the old-time favorite, navy
blue, and the dressy silk costumes are
being developed in natter, eco and
sapphire Even the tango, . reddish