Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-01-11
T. HE newest gowns from Paris
those which exclusive dress
makers are hiding in tissue pa

those which exclusive dress
makers are hiding in tissue pa
pers at the bottom of huge wardrobe
drawers. are made OF challis.
This material has come to the front
with a rush. Premet, Callot. Cherult
and Paqun are using challis in the
place of foulards, and are producing
gowns OF uncomfortable JoVeliness
made OF this wonderful material.
The fashions OF the hour in Paris
demand the use Of materials OF par
ticularlv soft finish, while the designs
and colortngs Of these modes are so
insistcnt as 10 require the most care
ful handling and artitic treatment.
Without doubt we shall see the
greatest vogue for gowns OF all sorts
and descriptions made Of cottons OF
varying weiglrtsNand designs since the
Civil War.
Then II was that the humble calico
was deemed suitable materlal for
lady Of high degree even, to wear.
To-day and for the immediate fu-
ture we shall observe this vogue re-
peated. with ciia!!!s, OF either cotton
or wool weaving, the most prominent
" demanded among cotton fabrics.
Some manufacturers and many cos
tuners declare gowns OF challis VIII
be so strong a feature of the spring
modes as to supersede the popularity
OF foulsrds.
This Is a strong statement Yet 1t
would seem to be borne out by the
number of models now in the market,
as well as the dominance of the gown
of challis over those of other mate
rails now being imported in samples
for American designers to copy from
fnf a Il a M a tinn9
Colorings are all vivid, but not
crudelv so. In every instance strong
colored backgrounds are softened IN
effect BY the clever introduction of
printed designs in contrasting colors,
so that the general effect is decidedly
soft and Oriental in appearance.
For instance. the gown illustrated
is of Chinese yellow challis, printed
with rose green blue and black con-
Nentional design, resembling nothing
so much as wonderfully blended bit
of coloring, such as is usually seen
upon very high priced foulards and
Shanghai silks.
The bloom, which is the most at
tractive feature of chalis, Is not to be
simulated in silk, however, thus plac-
ing Challks in a distinctive class by
itself as a unique material for gown
making
1t Grapes beautifully and does not
need so much stitfeninR reinforce
ment or support in its adjustment to
the requirements OF the present modes
AS do many other voguish materials.
Crepes are the Only other fabric quite
so adaptable, and even these are less
desirable, for their fault lies in some
times clinging too closely to ones fig
ure at precisely the point they should
not.
The overskirt feature Is 80 strongly
insistent for sprino that il can not he
aisregarded As for the oversktrt
proper in any ONE of its various
guses. it will be used upon gowns
made for morning afternoon and
evening wear. and on tailored street
suits as well.
Next in fashion order is the waist
line.
Almost any line will do. The newer
and most fashionably correct will be
the hipline.
loose. low-lyino waistline, in
many instances no waistline at al.
for all dresses.
But for the suits the normal line, or
the slightly lifted line, Will be fash
ionably correct.
Much fullness over and around the
hips, very narrow, le-width skirt,
siaSneQ, opened 10 the knee or spit
at the back and lifted a little at this
position, and puffy frills with tie
backs to keep them in position.
Could any season present a more
conglomerate mass of style contra
diction? All OF which presages a
most decided change in fashions IN
the very near future.
Jackets are short, but Jackets are
again to have their day.
The separate short coat is to be as
modish a necessity as ones raincoat il
a practical appendage.
II will appear in every sort OF ma
terial and for wear on every occasion
For wear at Palm Beach there has
been imported a delectable clothes
creme de menthe. in the form OF a
pink velvet offering for a reading
Jacket
II may be seen made OF yellow creme
or OF other solid colored cotton cor