The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-18
SIMPLE EVENING GOWNS WORN IN FRENCH Ct4ATEAJX
Color Harmonies of Exquisite Costumes
Designed for Mime. Edmond Rostand
LOVELY New Rest Gowns

dresses have transparent sleeves of this
kind. They are attached to under
pOdiCes or Chemisettes made Of tulle Of
very filmy silk muslin and curved
cum is allowed to fall over the hands.
The model | have just described
would be lovely II copied in black mir
ror velvet and white mousseline de sole
printed in black; or black and pale gold.
The sable border might he changed for
skunk or narrow bands Of black fox
The last time | had the pleasure OF
speaking to Nine. Rostand she was
wearing charming walking dress
made OF ivory white canels hair
cloth. The skirt was pleated back
and front and there was very
long coat which was lined with
pale lemon yellow satin. The buttons
were in carved ivory and a Hat stole
In white fox was thrown carclessly over
one shoulder.
With this costume Nine Rostand
wore a fiat brimmed hat covered with
black velvet which was untrimmed ex-
ccpt for severe band. also Of velvet.
around the crown lovely white lace
ven was thrown over the hat i'm a very
picturesque manner
The Maison Paul Poiret has recently
made some lovely rest gowns for
the English market. English women
are devoted to this style OF dress. They
are clever at recognizing the subtle
difference between a rest gown and n
real tea gown, a difference which must
DO felt rather than defined
The famous Paul Poiret himself is
now a soldier. ! had the pleasure Of
| seeing him in uniform the last time
was in Bordeaux, and very we'll he
looked. The rest gowns | have just
mentioned were designed before the war
broke out and they are being eagerly
purchased and, ! am afraid, copied in
| London.
one of these gowns was made of a
silver tissue which was specially manu-
| featured for Poiret. II is supple as
chiffon and by no means fragile. It
formed the chief part of the gown and
then there was cross-over corsagc in
| flesh pink tulle which was confined at
the waist by a fiat band Of chiffon roses
The shape Of the rest gown was ex
aggeratedly Poiret. In the hand IL
| looked like a dalmatic or an enlarged
, pinafore or even superb smock. 1t
| had. apparently, no special shape.
But when II was thrown on tall
and graceful woman. and fastened by
the mysterious gallon ornaments which
ran right down one side, the change
was magical. At once an exquisite
| creation came into being. one OF tn 50
battling combinations of supple stuffs
of which Paul Poiret-and perhaps he
alone--knows the secret
Chiffon velvet is very much used FIR
rest gowns of the more elaborate order.
This material does not easily crush
when the quality is good and in all the
new shades OF red and blue IL gives
exquisite effects.
An admirable indoor costume was
made of chiffon velvet in a splenh i
shade of fuchia red The lines or the
gown were straight and flowing. and *
the hem It was bordered with skunk.
Then there was crossover corsag",
with kimono sleeves, which was con-
fined at the waist by a length Of pale
gold gallon, which was wound round
the waist and then loosely tied at one
side. rather low down This dress was
accompanied by "A Chemisette made NJ
oyster white chiffon and there wer'
long transparent sleeves similar u
those shown on Nine. Rostand's gown.
, Liberty velveteen is an IDEAL materia
for rest gowns of a comparatively mex
pensive order. In iaponica pink and in
all the fashionable shades of yellow this
stuff is lovely. II looks well when com
bined with pleated chiffon and borderet
with narrow bands Of skunk.