Evening star., 1914-01-11
THE CHANGING TRADITIONS OF CLOTHES

And It makes life easier for every one.
There is no sign on the horizon OF a
fitted coat of any kind. but the short
jacket is pronouncedly loose and shape
| less. 1t is nothing more than cape with
sleeves in many models.
Look at the one shown in the sketch,
| much shape to that. And its novelty lies
! In the long piece that tucks itself under
! the right arm and fastens beyond the side
seam. You may remember a Snodei
| earlier in the season that had both OF
its fronts crossed, slipped through open
| ings at the side seams and fastened at the
| back as belt. The gown emphasizes this
new feature.
| There is another model that has the
| two fronts diminished to long points
| which cross the figure a trifie below the
waist line and tie in large fiat bow be-
low the waist. This treatment is also
another evidence of the hustle idea. Rest
| assured that Premet is not wcaried with
| that idea yet.
| There are many short coats in the ad-
| vanced models for spring which Paris
always makes for the Riviera in January
| that show again the postalon back.
| This is a square tab that hangs below
the waist line as if it was an after
| thought The coat shown in the drawing
/ today does not have this popular feature
| 1t curves gently downward toward the
back. and shows narrow ruffle in the
| front, which is attached to the waist
| line.
| Some there are who might call that ruff
| fie by the name of tunic. Possibly the
! designer did so when she invented 1t
| DroH little accessory, isn't It? 1t tries to
make itself important by being fastened
down with row of extra large buttons.
| You will observe them on the side.
| The collar and cuffs are of fitch. that
| fierce peltry which would frighten a
| child. One imaginative woman said that
she wanted to jump on char and
! scream for help when a woman who used
| it a hem on her skirt, came rushing
toward her. 1t looked vicious and alive.
The muff is also trimmed with this fur;
it is Of velvet to match the gown, which,
by the way, is of that new shade of
bronze that the dyers put into the first
duvetyn. 1t is part green, part brown.
and very much bronze. The muff has an
opening on top for a pocketbook. The
whole costume is from Bernard.
The huge muff of velvet has one end
decorated with colored tassels which re-
mind one of the important part these ac-
cessories play in the costumery of women
Worth exhibited an Indian gown last au-
tumn. which was probably a compliment
to the Americans, and on it was a string
of really wonderful Indian beads. The
Americans did not pay particular atten-
ton to it, because their country was full
of such works of primitive art.
But the gown had its weight, and it's
influence on the fashions. Indian beads
of all kinds We're adopted as garniture
and squares of beads were added to hats
and belts. Now it is the Chinese baubles
that are sought and worn around the
neck, and dangling from the furs, as
shown this muf.
The Chinese cords and tassels are color
full. and if too many are not worn, the
effect IS good. Many women wear a silk
en- cord around the neck with three beads
and two tassels hanging from it. This
ornament is added to a plain, dark serge
or cloth frock with good effect