The Washington herald., 1914-01-18
Fashions at the Capital
The Well Dressed Woman OF Smart Society," What She Wears
The Time and Place.
ARET WADE 5S


The futility OF hoping for an exclusive
model has again been shown in WASH
ington where one of the smartest OF
Worth creations was duplicated at the
very first dinner party OF the year. HOW
many more times the owners Of "exclu-
sive" gowns are to see themselves re-
peated, or initiated SO closely as TO oefy
detection between imported and copied
fashions, remains to be seen, several con-
tretemps having already eniiveneo as
many smart companies.
A regal toilet OF black velvet over
petticoat of white chiffon with tho very
latest trimming of bead or frinee In
let and crystal worn by Mrs. stephen
b. Elkins on the occasion of the first
dinner party she has attended since lay
ing aside her mourning. found a twin
gown worn by the Countess Won Bern
storff, wife of the German Ambassador,
both ladies having personally selected
this model in Paris In the early autumn.
For Mrs. Elkins. the gown was executed
in black velvet; for the Countess Won
Bernstorff, In black satin. otherwise there
is not a line of difference. The drapery,
like the wonderful bead fringe finishing
Ii is distinctly Worth offering. The
new necessary fullness wraps the figure
in fiat, not very close folds, in contrast
10 Ine QtClucQ DOulldul VI Soaoe
or Cheruite. Fringe hardly describes the
exquisite bead trimming which falls from
the edge of the black drapery. Every
strand Is a loop, half Jet, half crystal,
the fall being something like eighteen
or twenty inches deep.
Each gown has IT'S bodice largely of
white net with the sleeves of the beads
in the long cascade of jet and crystal
which falls to the elbow.
- -, a1cr<
wears a corsage ornament of crystal and
silver.
The Countess Won Bernstorn is showing
a decided preference for white and gold.
having two splendid dinner gowns of this
material, but totally dissimilar in effect
The white and gold brocade which the
German Ambassadoress wore at one OF
last weeks dinners shows several new
features, including Watteau-like train
of dull green tulle. thus reversing the old
time fashion of tulle gown with silk
train.
As regards the foundation of this court
costume, white is the background, gold
the relief. The front of the gown hangs
in narrow lines, but, like many Of the
newest importations, shows slight curve
at the waist. The train. which starts
some inches above the belt. lays possibly
eighteen inches on the floor and is hung
in long loops of pearl and crystal beads,
thus making the tuIle train heavy as bro
cade or velvet. The top of this gown
shows a square, rather than round decol-
lette, with jewel incrusted tulle outlining
the neck and forming the sleeves.
second brocade worn at the White
House on Tuesday night Is with gold
foundation, with only a delicate high
light in white. This is made also with
rather short train in comparison with
trains of other years, and a tunic over
dress edged in brown fur.
Never has the vogue of brocade been
greater than at the present time, when
debutante and dowager alike are appear
ing in this style of dress formerly re-
served for the mature il not exclusively
for matrons and dowagers. There are.
however, brocades and brocades, the 1914
kind being something quite distinct from
the brocades of even twelve months ago.
One change is in the color; also in the
texture of the fabric, which, when made
on draped lines of the present season,
must be pliable as chiffon. which quality
is entirely lacking from the brocades of
former years, as many woman knows
to her sorrow when she has tried to have
a last years gown brought up to date.
One of the handsomest of the new bro
cades at the diplomatic reception was
worn by Mrs. John P. Jackson. who evil
IDENTIFY keeps to one Gf the great Paris
designers, as her dinner gowns show
certain uniform style with an up-to-the-
min te detail of color and finish. This
particular gown is of taupe satin bro
caded in gold, in a geometrical pattern
distinct enough to give great brilliancy
to the gown, but soft in outline, and,
very pleasing contrast to
the many broca6es which appear to have
priated by dressmakers. Mrs. jackson
also shows her good taste in the appli-
cation of the fur trimming which edges
the hem of the gown, instead of perform |
ing the office of sash or girdle, as seen
on some otherwise handsome costumes. |
The fur is a long-haIred variety, dyed
to match the taupe shade in the brocade, |
and two inches long. This goes about the |
train, which shows a round |
line and is considerably wider than the |
average.
Miss Mona McAdoo, who enjoys the |
unique position of presiding over a |
Cabinet home and at the same time re-
ceiving the attentions and enjoying all |
the frivolities that belong to a charm |
ing girl in her second season, continues |
10 make blue in some shade the keynote |
1f her wardrobe. At the White House /
reception on Tuesday evening Miss Nc |
Adoo formed a part of the procession of |
1otables following the President and. Mrs. |
Wilson in their march to the Blue Room, |
but did not take her place in line with |
he Cabinet hostesses who assisted in re- |
seiyjng. Instead. the young daughter of |
the Secretary of the Treasury ensconced
herself on one of the velvet benches of |
he red corridor, where she held a court |
Jf her own surrounded at all times by |
4 group of young officers and diplomats. |
Miss McAdoo's gown was of dark blue
chiffon velvet In the new petrol shade,
made with trained skirt in close narrow
ines with short bouffant drapery about
he hips, but not of the pannier variety. |
The added width on the upper part OF |
he skirt was either short tunic or
several still shorter ruffles with a line OF |
satin matching the velvet in color FORM
ng a part Of this particularly chic skirt.
The top was entirely of the velvet in the |
irooping shoulder effect with half length
sleeves and a surplice neck finished in
,lain white tulle. She carried a bouquet
II narcissus and roses in pure white
hat seemed a part of the toilet, although