The Alaska citizen., 1914-12-07


York under date of Nov. . writes
The semi-fitting long coat. As II eX-
presses a part of the costume. Is
shown TO best advantage in the red
ingote This model can be changed
in so many ways and adapted to so
many purposes that it is sure to
find greater favor as the season
advances.
Lovely costumes are carried out
in chiffon velvet. OF course, there
is no difficulty in duplicating these
designs where one has the taste and
an acquaintance with sewing Par
ticularly chic is blue chiffon vel
vet dress. corded silk being com
bined with the velvet. Tiniest beads
work out a design which narrowly
borders the lower edge and trims
the front center of the bodice por-
ton of its velvet tunie II is a tu-
mic with small-sized bishop sleeves
and but for them Greek model
might have inspired the costume
Over it goes a silk sleeveless redin.
cote confined by the broadest and
--LATEST of self-belts This also glis-
tons with rows of small jet buttons.
fastening the girdle under either arm.
Had the velvet tunic been length
ened six inches il would have cover
ed the narrowest silk underdress-
the one originally invented TO go
with the shaped, flaring overdress
so recently graduated into a circu-
lar skirt The touches of white for
which every marine blue frock is
the better are applied to this silk
and velvet creation in the form of
plated maline wrist frillines and
chemisette headed with an upstand-
ing ruche.
The tunic is too old and trusty
friend to be parted with in a hurry
so il remains with US. though in a
slightly different form: instead of be
ing attached TO the skirt il is now
a part of the coat, The basque of
the coat rests upon il. and is often
killed or pleated The waist still
remains indefinite, and the belt or
girdle which encircles the hips seems
likely also to continue, for a time at
least
Coats have grown considerably
longer than they We're. and the most
Fashionable coats later on in the
= winter will reach to the knees. This
is a most sensible as we'll as grace
1ll ltnptn. tlloIulUS as IL t''t'S sun
able protection from the cold. which
the foolish little coats we elected
to wear last winter effectually with
held
Gabardine is so fine and flexible
that no one is surprised to see It
pleated In all possible WAYS. One
excellent model has hiD-deep yoke
from which is suspended a widely
a. liD1, n,,t,
partly stitched down. makes a very
narrow looking, but actually a rath-
er wide skirt.
Below the self belt its front center
pamela single box pleat-is broken
by hip-long black satin vest. which
above the waist line opens narrowly
over the elongated fronts of a white
linen collar. A low-r0lling gahar.
dine collar finishing the satin vest
brings a line of blue between the
white and the black materials on the
fronts of a bodice whose low-drop-
ped shoulders support narrow three
quarter sleeves. These sleeves, fit
ted closely to the forearms. are
heightened by mousquetaire cuffs.
Buttons are much in evidence at
present, and the manufacturers have
than ever Among the more eXpen-
sive buttons are diamond olive, and
rectangular shaped designs of color
ed enamel, jet, galalite and polished
wood. Among the smaller buttons
are oddly shaped designs of porce-
lain. crystal pearl and galalite,
which are used on blouses and chem
isettes They are in flower and
pretty designs are fashioned entire
ly of small colored beads
The disk-shaped button continues
its popularity. and is embroidered
beaded or crocheted as fancy de-
mands The embroidery is done with
silk, wool or chenille in different
colors
Others buttons are of carved wood,
horn bone or pearl in every design
imaginable.
The touch Of the hand embroidery
which distinguishes so many of the
seasons successful suits appears on
a dark blue garbardine model intend
ed for one of those useful semi
tailored frocks. which many women
wear as entire street costumes dur
ing the autumn and under fur coats
iiHS lhC " iIltVi- us blut ~Sdt III
underdress does not count for much,
as it is all but hidden by a long
back and front and shortside over
skirt pleated to the waistband and
hanging in loose, full folds about
the figure.
It's hip-long basque. huttonine
straight down the back in common
with a Understanding self-collar, has
magenta embroidered simulated
plastron starting above the bust and
extending to the waist. Half way
to the bust the embroidered design
runs over centre pointed section of
gabardine performing the mission of
both peasant girdle and basque and
buttoning onto the back below the
waist line just behind the underarm
seams. Into the downward slant of
this girdle is gathered the small
amount of extra fulness in the bod
ices fronts. These, slightly opened
below the chin, accommodate the
sharply tapered ends of the collar.
FASHIONABLE FURs.
Two colors lead the fur fashion
this season-brown and black. Per
haps monkey skin is the pelt most
in demand for the woman whose
dress allowance must be stretched
to meet many needs. Seal. mink,
-