Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-09-20

but she continued to design new fash
ions for the opening of her house,
thereby doing her duty in two differ
emit ways, getting ready for the wound
ed and giving employment to hundreds
of women Because of her action,
many of her wonderfully good gowns
are called by the people Red Cross
fashions" Because Of her sentiments
at the time of working she used
good deal of infantry red, the color
that the French chasseurs- a-pied use
in their trousers, a blazing shade that
one can see as far as sight can go.
Surely. the idea of protective colora-
ton has not gotten into the French
army system .
Nine. Wagner also designed the lowell
est evening wrap shown at the openings
which was named after the RUSSIAN;
Ivanhoff. 1t was another evidence OF
the cordial intentions that are nov
welded between the two countries IN
the forge of flame, battle and sucden
death. 1t might have been czar'
coronation cloak, SO splendid is 1t IN It's
red and gold and blazing embroidery:
The idea in evening wraps, by the
way, is all toward the sumptuous. They
were designed just before mobilization
and their creators had not heard
whisper of war. But in their medieval
splsndor and bravery they are remln1s-
cent of the war panoply OF other DAYS
not of that duo gray and dust brown in
which the soldiers of two countries
have gone into this death grip. And
vet there are women who Will say that
they are quite appropriate. for people
here talk uneasily today of Attila and
the Huns All fear of every kind has
melted into fear of what the enemy or
France will do to it's citizens, and the
stranger within it's gates should 1t
ever have the chance. Much OF II is
hysteria from over-reading and talking,
but it is developing into serious men
ace to self-control
At the house of Premet, the new
manager, NJ Matthews. wore bras
sard of the Croix-Rouge on his arm,
while the new gowns were shown; and
the manager who had gone to camp
sent in many late designs for the au-
tumn fashions, in order that his force
would not be depleted. Therefore, it
was natural that the brassard would
make its appearance in the gowns.
Many of the best frocks that have
been made for the Americans have this
arm badge, which is significant of
service to the French government, al
though few Americans who will wear
it will connect it with its meaning.
1t is placed on one-piece frocks. OF
3lue serge and gabardine, which have
in no measure lost their prestige, al
though Cheruit's use of vigone mas
turned attention to this weave.
This brassard is not added to the
sleeve, but is a part of it. 1t is merely
a strip of material placed between the
upper and lower part of the sleeve.
much in the fashion adopted last year
for alteration in making the short
sleeve longer. Any kind of embroid-
cry may be used. 1t may be in bril-
liant red, in blue, or black and yell
low, and although the single Red Cross
is not allowed unless one has special
permission to wear it. there is design
in embroidery that displays a number
of tiny scarlet crosses bedded in Dor
ders of dark blue or yellow.
Nearly all the dressl takers are show
ing evening frocks of satin in a tone
of pinkish yellow, known as salmon.
1t comes in velvet, also in cloth. and
there are quantities of tulle in it used
for drapery over self-colored or white
satin.
The entire range of colors in evening
gowns comprises only these light tones.
excepting the few brilliant infantry
red gowns and the black satin and
lace toward which Drecoll has shown
so much partiality.
Not many of the houses show all
black evening gowns. Premet has
few attempts at them, but she sp1ashes
a brilliant color somewhere to take off
the somberness. When she uses jet it
is lavishly done. and often in colors
as well as black, so the foundation is
merely a background.
1t is possible that this fashion for
all black will be more followed in
Paris than elsewhere, but it is quite
safe to say that conspicuous evening
gowns Of any kind will not be given
airing.
In America tnere is little doubt that
Drecoll's black lace gowns over satin
will find much favor. He also brings
out the inevitable suit of babys lamb;
Paris is never able to get through the
season without one such costume Of
fered to the American buyer.
1t would need civil engineer to I'M
derstand the details of the new
Cheruit coat that has become a
standard fashion. The long. full pep
lum is made up of godet sections. and
no one of these sections is large.
That may give you some idea of the
bias markings the seams make that
run from waist to hem.
Not content with these, there are
from four to six sections, cut in the
same shape, placed exactly under the
arm. They begin in a point marked
by large embroidered arrowhead
and spread out fanwise to the waist
! line. There is no revival of the darts in
! the front, but there are seams down
| the back that slightly shape it at the
sides. The front of this coat is fas.
tened at the left side, invisible, at neck
and waistline. Unless the material is
well shaped it will open in an awkward