The Hood River glacier. (Hood River, Or.) 1889-1933, 1914-03-26
THE EUROPEAN CITIES
OF SOUTHERN CHINA
February Is, 1914.

much 10 see in Hongkong or rather mol
much that was different. Yet We found
/ the English Chinese city interesting,
and had plenty Of time 10 get around
I The city is located on one Of the many
rocky and comparatively barren islands
( that lie Oft the mouth and IN the delta
of the Canton and Pearl rivers. IL has
large harbor which will bold all the
sbips of the world, with an entrance tC
| the sea both north and south. IL Is az
/ impressive sight to come into the har'
/ boT by day. with the ships from al
countries Of the globe al anchor, sur
rounded By thousands of Chinese Junks,
sauuaDs. ferry boats and what not,
while the massive brick structures
! loom up on the side Of the steep noun
Itain. Or if at night, the countless
lights from the city ard the twlnkllng
| Iipbts from ships and boats in the har'
bur. make q beautiful picture. We had
to leave the ship at llOukong and oui
scramble for a place to sleep was de
scribed in a former letter.
Perhaps the hest description Of the
site of the city would be to imagine u
! buIlt on the Columbia river on the side
of the mountain east Of and adjoining
Bingen. With small space along the
water front Of level ground, the city Of
half a million people, stretches for q
couple Of miles along this water front,
crowding up the side Of the mountain
TO an elevation Of peIhaps 300 or 4Ol
feet. with the bulk Of the Chinese pop
uIation in a congested district of q
mile long and 500 or 700 feet wide
While the streets are more or less
winding. they are much wider than u
Canton and follow the general course
of the water front, so that the tourist
can easily find his way about alone,
knowing that if he gets lost, hVe
minutes walk will take him to the
mountain or the water 'front.' the
streets being wide enough so that he
can get a glimpse Of the sky and oc-
casionally the sun, to give him the
points of the compass.
The Chinese portion Of the city is
much like all Chinese cities, except
much more sanitary and less congested
than Canton. A street railway goes
from one end of the island to the other
along the water front, and first class
passengers may sit on top, giving them
an excellent view of the streets and
harbor while not being in contact with
the Celestials, who generally ride Sec
ond and third class. below.
The British government and private
capital have made modern European
city of what is known as the European
settlement. Five large buildings, mod
ern stores, wide streets, give an air OF
prosperity and comOfrt we had not
seen except in a small way at Manila.
On the top Of the mQgntain, at an ele-
walton of 1900 feet, the Peak hotel is a
delightful place at any season, but
more especially in the hot summer
months. A tramway runs from near
the business center every 10 or l5 min
utes. Near this hotel are the soldiers
barracks and officers quarters, the
summer residence Of the governor gen.
eral, a hospital, and at intervals down
the side of the steep mountain on mar
row shelves, are several magnificent
residences. The homes are reached
either by a station on the tramway OF
winding road up the mountain. One
Of the astounding facts we learned
was that all the material Of these large
stone and brick buildings, was CarrieC
up the side of the mountain on tht
shoulders of coolies, apparently no les
a feat than the building Of the pyra
mids of Egypt, which.must have beel
built in the same manner. From tht
| top of the mountain one can look al
| around the island and out through thu
entrance to the harbOr, many miles a
sea, while the city is in full view be
| low.
The hotels IN Hongkoug were tn,
worst we found anywhere. The Hong
kong and Peak were full, except fo
half dozen rooms. These we're quit
comfortable. The King Edward AM
Astor House were considered frs
class, yet their idea of the words frs
class" consisted of a room large enougI
for a ball room, yet no running wate
nor private baths. An excelsior mat
tress and bolster with a ragged cottol
sheet covering. An elevator or lift
made the trip from bottom to top il
about Is minutes with a capacity O
only four persons. In fact, one of ou
party arriving after the Gift wa
half way up from the ground floor ra
up the stairs and waited for it at tn
next floor. Some Of the first class
hotels have no sewer systems. Th
servants are all Chinese and can usu
ally speak few words Of English am
Igive much better attention and an
more courteous to guests than the ser
wants in American hotels, while heinI
satisfied with very moderate tips.
The shops were interesting to visit
and everything made 10 China was t
be found there. As for bargains, W
did not see many. They have Iearue
to "hoId up" the tourists, althuug.
one can haggle awhile and general,
get them down tosabout half the pric
asked Although it is a free port, am
many English goods on the market
prices were as high rs in America
Many Curio stores, however, wer
found interesting and contained curl
Gus articles which made nice souvenirs
while the embroidery stores attracte
the ladies'.
The botanical gardens, part way u
the mountain, were beauty spots
Many winter flowers were in bloom
fountains with large basins filled wit
gold fish, beautiful walks, all sorts O
shrubs. palms and Towering vines
made It fayoriJe resort in goo
weather.
Although as far south as Mexic
| City, yet we had virtually Portlan
winter weather. The air was dam
and chilly; cloudy with occasional sun
shine. When the sun came cat it wa
warm and pleasant, but we had yer
little clear weather. Yet all the cool
les go barefootod and are very thinI
clad. Even on the chill DAYS ito US
many cooIio burden bearers would b
not only barefooted, but naked to tn
waist. The immense commerce pass
ing through this port is all handle
from the ships 10y being ightcred int
sampaDs and Junks, as there is no pie
for the large frejghtprs. There is
constant stream of coolies carryin
goods from the small boats to tn
warehouses OF 'gOdowns" along th
water front. Heavy goods are Ioade
onto two-wheeled drays, and load o
a ton Is pushed along by four to ST
/