davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30
oWOMANS VARIED INTEPESTSe

wraps of that extra type which every
woman who goes about at all must
have. They are not for motoring. Nor
set for walking. But they will do for
either purpose, if necessary. They arc
convenient TO wear in carriage over
an afternoon gown.
One Of the best of these wraps
rich, fine and heavy cloth of lovely
sage green shade--ends near the knees
and Is so voluminous that it stands
almost conspicuously away from the
( figure at the sides. Across the shout
ders, back and front its fulness is fiat
tened by decply.rouuded mole collar
which, however, does not overlap nor
mally-placed sleeves. Cloth covered
buttons fasten the collar at front CEN
tire and from there the garment closes
blindly TO the upper edge of the band
of mole bordering it almost to the hips.
The New Shaped Arm Eyes.
The same fur narrowly borders the
sleeves, boll-widcned from the elbows
and set INTO prm-eyes rounded across
the shoulders but extended in straight
lines almos. 10 the waist. There the
two straight sides of tho arm-cyc are
Joined By a third line. Rounded above
and square below, this is. indeed,
novelty in wcdgc-shaped act-ius for
sleeves.
To prevent these new arm-eyes from
being Us1Tlooked and a; the same time
to break the utter plalnncss Of the
coats fronts. trianglcs formed by dou-
bic stitchlngs outline their squarcd-of'
lower ends.
At many of the premier productions
at the theatres this season have been
seen Liberty scarrs whose extreme
length and breadth show how volumi-
nous those accessories to evening gowns
have become. one very beautifully
dressed occupant Of proscenium box
wore with an all-black transparent
gown forty-inch broad, tive.yard
scarf, patterned in maryellously blend
cd colors on black.
A Black Velvet Wrap.
The sleeves Of bIach net lace, i'm
ished with pleated not rutfcs, show
plainly while the wrap IS worn, be
cause that garment Is ,leeveless. It is
Of black velvet, and It's narrow fronts
are edged with skunk extended like
stole from the shoulders to the hips
base. From there the sides taper il
ripples toward the back, which, grad
uslly lengthening, points near the hem
of the gowns skirt.
Above the low placed waist line of
this coat the material is fitted smooth
ly but not closely to the figure, and the
arms emerge from long Sits in the
sides edged with skunk, matching
high collar encircling the throat.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30
Use of Mat .iOnal.

The use OF mats depends wholly upon
circumstances. Some etchingg seem to
require mats, while others are far more
beautiful without. The mat is, strict
ly speaking, part Of the frame, and
good taste will generally help ole to
decide whether its use Is or is not ad-
visable.
Fully as important as the tasteful
framing of etchings is the question Of
their hanging. Discriminating decora-
tors we'll know the value Of placing
pictures in color apart from those in
black and white, but etchings are most
successful when hung in L room to
themselves or perhaps with engrayings
to which they are closely related.
Set Within Panels in Halt.
Large or medium sized etchings may
be hung wherever they seem to be ap-
propriate, but very small etchings gain
in dignity by having frames alike or
very similar and of the same finish
and by being hung closely together.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

etching renders frames of wood most
useful. Such frames are 70 be had in
many widths and varieties and III
wide range Of colors; black, either luS-
treless, but showing the grain Of tho
wood, or Of 4 smooth finish, glazed,
without being shiny, makes al excel
lent frame. The same finishes may be
had in countless shades Of brown, gray
or green. All Of these are what arc
known as wood" colors aud are best
adapted for setting forth the dignity
and enhancing the beauty of etchings
in black and white. Gilt frames are
sometimes permissible with etchings,
but they must be used very cautiously
They should be dull in tone and rather
narrow.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

stand in this sauce for ten minutes or
more before serving. The regulation
cocktail sauce, which can be bought
bottled or mixed with tomato catsup,
lemon juice, horseradish and other sea-
gouingg, is equally good with poached
oysters.
Baked Oysters on Half Shell.
Choose large oysters with deep lower
shells. Open and place the oysters on
half shell in baking tin and set in 4
hot oven until the gills have curled.
Have ready hot sauce, allowing TO
every six oysters one tablespoonful Of
melted butter, a tesspoonful each OF
lemon juice and sauterne and pinch
of chopped parsley and salt. Arrange
the hot shells i'll a circle on plate and
pour some Of the sauce over each
oyster.
Roasted Oysters with Lemon Butter.
Wash aud scrub thoroughly the shells
cf large oysters. Place IN baking tin
and set in hot oven uUtIl the shells
opcr. Remove the upper half Of shell
and arrange in circle on plate, allow
ing six TO a portion. On each put a
little lemon butter, made by cresming
three tablespoonfuls of butter with one
tablespoonful Of lemon juice, little
horsersdish, salt and pepper. Garnish
With lemon quarters.
Broiled Oysters, Hollandsisc Sauce.
Select large oysters, drain and dry
each one and dust with salt, pepper and
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

little cayenne. Butter baking sheet
and arrange on It the oysters. Place
Under tho flame IN gas broiler, az close
as possible without catching fire. Brown
quickly on one side, remove, turn and
brown on the other side. Place in
heated half shells, arrange on plates,
with lemon basket in tho centre of
each holding sauce made by adding two
tableSpoonfuls of grated horseradisb
to the usual recipe for HolIsndaiso
sauce.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30
Do You KnoW?

MUCH trouble and disorder
4N1 might be saved in the dress
ing room of a school in
winter if mothers would give each.
child snap clothespin, on which is
written his or her name, this clothes
pin to hold together the child's pair
of rubbers.
p y y
A LOOP of narrow black ribbon
"A or tape fastened to the inside
of the crown Of hat will fur
nish a means of hanging it up upon
occasions when space is limited.
= y ,
ITO soften boots and shoes, rub
l. we'll with castor oil and let
stand twelve hours. This will
keep them from cracking and make
them yielding and soft.
y y
IF christening robes are made to
order, for a small extra charge
the date and the small persons
initials or name are embroidered on
the gown in any place desired. This
naturally gives the christening robe
an individual touch and will per-
haps make it more interesting
heirloom.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

The hall Of one very beautiful city
residence has been planned to set forth
the BEAUTY Of Il very famous collection
OF ctchings which it has taken many
Years to acquire. Since the etchings
are of very nearly the same size, they
have been framed alike III narrow
strips of dull gold and set "'.thm the
panellng which lines the wa.s OF the
hall and which extends ~ the winding
stairway through several doors. The
ranels were of the exact size TO hold
the etchings, and Their beautiful lines
surrounded by dull gilt and set within
pancling painted deep cream create
very decorative effect.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30
MLLNESS BREAKS SILHOUETTE
uo,s Material Required in Autumn's Costumes than
Or Many Years-Width in Sides and Back of
Skirts and at the Waist Line of Wraps

suit is new one, and appealing be-
cause it blends perfectly with the
chestnut tones Of the American blondes
hair rarely golden unless aided by art.
Although distinctly dark, the new
brown seems to hold that intangible
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

"a the Joy Of the manufacturers,
more yards of material are in tho
j costumes launched this autumn
-, have been used for years, Skirts
,sseY. coats arc longer and wraps
rr filler,
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

Laurence Millet is q graduste Of Hsr.
ward, class Of '01, and q Oxford, 'o7.
Miss Bissell was introduced to society
three years ago. She is now with her
parents at their country place at oys-
ter Bay.
The marriage Of Miss Frances Burr,
daughter Of Mr.. and Mrs. Winthrop
Burr, to Alfred Ely, jr, which Is 60
take place on October II, at Lawrence,
Long Island, will be very quiet, owing
TO the recent death of Mr.. Ely's father.
Arthur J. Moulton will be the best man
There will be no ushcrs.
Miss Greta Hostctter, who is TO bs
married to Glenn Stewart, Of Pitts-
burgh, October %, in the Lattiug
Chapel, Locust Valley, Long Island, will
have for her maid of honor Miss Mar
garet A. Kennedy. The bridesmaids will
be Miss Caramai Carroll, Miss Helen
Hoffstot, Miss Virgins Mckee and Miss
Helen Hyde. Only relatives and few
intimate friends will be present at the
ceremony, but large reception and
wedding breakfast viii follow at Birch
wood, the country place of the brides
stepfather and mother, Mr.. and Mrs
Anson Wood Burchard, at Locust Va
ley. A special train will leave the Penn
sylyanis station at II o'clock for the
accommodation of the New York guests.
Mr.. and Mrs. William A. Slayback
have gone TO Hot Springs, Va, to spend
three or four weeks.
Mrs. Walter B. James will give z
dance at the Ritz Carlton on December
%, to introduce her daughter, Miss
Helen James.
Mrs. William Lowe Rice has returned
70 the city from Southampton, Long
Island, and is at the Plaza.
Mrs. Arson Phelps Stokes and Miss
Helen Phelps Stokes have gone 10 Nor
oton, Conn, for the fall.
Henry L. Eldridge, who spent tho
summer as usual at Newport, has gone
to Hot Springs, Va, for short stay.
Robert ". Goelet has leased for
the winter the house of Mr.. and Mrs.
Benjamin Guinness, Washington
Square North Mr.. and Mrs. GUM
ness will remain in England through
! out the winter.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30
THE PROPER SETTING FOR ETCHLNGS.
Dignity Therefore They Are be
Used ALL Careful Training and Hanging in Harmonious Sur
roundings Are Essential
. TECHNICS may well be rcgardc

II TECHNICS may well be regarded
n AS the height" Of the many
forms of picture reproduction.
The very smallnesg Of their number
places them in a separate class, and
they possess much individuality. From
copper plates, etched or engraved By
hund, only limited number of impress
sions in each of several States" or
proofs" are printed, and the signature,
by the artist, Of the prints of certain
states confers upon such etchings AN
interest and dignity wholly lacking IN
pictures which arc turned out in vast
editions by commercial photographers
o. photographers.
Careful Framing Necessary.
The use Of ctchings should always be
thoughtfully considered; hardly any
thing demands more careful framing
or hanging. Unlike pictures in color,
which assert themselves however
framed and wherever hung, etchings,
which are usually in black and white
and frequently of somewhat fragile
drawing, must have frames which will
emphasize, rather than dctract from,
the pictures. The true function of
frame is to aCcentuate pictures
beauty aud to bring it into more COM
plcte harmony with its surroundings
never TO diminish or overshadow it's
decorative value.
Avoid Elaborate Surroundings.
Just SO with the backgrounds against
which etchings are hung and the sur
rcundines amid which they are placed
An extremely ornate background and
elaborat, surroundings are apt to frus-
rate the decorative purpose Of ctch-
inga by r2lirg them appear insignia
cant.
Since they require au environment
rather quiet ana somewhat aubdued in
tone. they arc ycrhars mere frequently
appropriate in libraries and living
rooms than in "tb,c room, Of the
house.
w OOd" Tones Enhance Beauty.
The black und white Of the usual
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

Several weddings of interest to CO.
ciety are scheduled for to-day. In the
Huguenot Memorial Church, Pelham
Manor, Miss Marion Winston Hoyle,
daughter Of Colonel and Mrs. Frank
Jerome Hoyle, will be married this af-
ternoon to Lansing Woodruff Powers,
son of Mrs. Walter G. Powers, Of Rye.
Miss Hoyle il a granddaughter of for
mer Governor Towns, of Atlanta. The
ceremony will be followed by recep-
ton at the Pelham Manor Club, where
dance was given last evening for the
bridal party.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30
WOMAN'S PAGE BINDERS.

As many Of tho articles on this page
will be contlaued from day to day. The
Tribune. for the eosTenieuce Of those
who may wlSb 10 preserve the pages.
has had made an original and unusual
binder. THIS binder holds sixty single
newspaper pages. and win b sold ~
cost, thirty centS, postage prepaid.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

golden shade which turks in sable
That is why the designer Of the suit
added touches Of sable to its high
collar. At the same time she added 8
touch Of coquetry-a tiny nosegsy Of
velvet rosebuds, where the sable tails
meet between chin agd left ear.
Much Satin for Evening Gowns.
For the nonce, the amount of satin
needed for lace'or chiffon veiIed even
ing gown has not noticesbly increased.
But more Of the transparent material is
necessary than was used few seasons
ago. As case in point, take very
successful model Of white satin, white
malinos, cream and silver lace and box.
The dark fur edges an oyerdress Of
malines which, crossed near front centre
Of the satin skirt, wells it to the knees.
AT the sides, the fur edged transpar.
ency drops in cascades which have a
fetching way of holding themselves out
from the figure.
At the back the drspery is shorter
and falls in two VOWS Of irregular,
very broad and very indefinite box
pleats. From half way between the
knees to the waist the fox edged
malines wells the lower portion of a
cream and silver lace bodice, partly
covered by white satin wsistcoat,
whose fronts-running 10 broad points
over the hips-cross at the belt line.
There they fasten under 81 elaborate
ornament Of white and silver cordSge.
Has Elbow Sleeve.
The elbow sleeves Of lace houncing
loosely veil the arms, and the same
rneghing outlines and partly fills in the
front of the satin waistcoat, whose back
makes a straight, high line across the
shoulders.
In this evening gown is seen an un-
,stinted use Of mslines, fur edging and
lace as we'll as q willingness to repeat
the satin Of the skirt in the bodice.
Material a-plenty goes into ell Of the
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

In the case Of many skirts, especially
those designed for street service, the
additional width does not instantly i'm
p'sss one. From the front they seem
70 repeat tie straight lines Of seasons
past But usually from the side a
Aight degree Of fulness can be noticed.
from the back there is no question
'0out the two and half to three yard
IsasuFemeut about the hem-w when the
yeats arc stretched
OveElappings Break silhouette.
One Of the best examples Of this type
v skirt is that belonging to a semi
N'lored suit of broadcloth. Its
~aight-eut front is a trifc overlapped
either knee by self-button, fat
Nnea' pointed end extended from the
past form over q pleated side. These
Appings make decided breaks
sa'ea also show from the back, q Sec
700 falling in deep, loose pleats to
ihs lines made by the SIX t's pleats
= seeurately repeated in the coats
%.sf portion. This falls to the knees
oasE snd sides from just below the
-I where it is sttached-under a
a giTdis-to straight,cut little
49, At the sides this girdle drops
s'upuy and is knotted low over the
~ ~ Of the coat which stop at the
~ ~ The military influence is seen in
nrmsnt's fronts, which, bordered
~ ~ small, fat, button-tipped, sharp
80. ~ eIsidlns design, closes straight
" as throat
Cats Button at Upper Side.
!, ,IiSoOEh high. the collar is not strict.
I,atasy. for its base rounds sufi-
49, 70 break the severity of the
N,ss, into which the sleeves are
,- asted. These sleeves would be
military did not their cuffs,
y euttOnsd at their upper side,
e'Saed tiare At the wrist.
esu shade Of this broadeloth
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

Miss Harricttc Staples Wheeler,
daughter of Professor and Mrs. Arthur
NJ. Wheeler, of New Haven, will become
the bride to-day Of Rowley Wilhelm
Phillips, eldest son of Mr.. and Mrs. l..
Rowley Phillips, of Brooklyn. The cere-
mony will be performed by the Rev.
DR.. Means, of New Haven, at 1880 at
the country place Of the brides parents
ut Grove Beach, Conn.
Still another wedding OF to-day will
be that of Miss Lillian A. Sanford,
daughter of Mr.. and Mrs. William H,
Sanford, of Jersey City, to George W..
Mitchell, son of Mr.. and Mrs. George
II. B. Mitchell, Of 142 West 72d st., this
city. The ceremony will be performed
at the home of the bride, 343 Arlington
ay., Jersey City.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30
WEDDINGS ATTRACT SOCIETY
L. W. Powers to Marry Miss Marion Hoye-Miss
Wheeler To Be Bride Of R. W. Phllips-Miss
Lillian Sanford To Be Mrs. G. w. Mitchell.

Laurence Millet is q graduate Of Hsr.
ward, class Of 'O1, and Of Oxford, 'oT.
Miss Bissell was introduced to society
three years ago. She is now with her
parents at their country place at oys-
ter Bay.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

Mrs. George Elliott, Of 81 East 9th
st., has announced the engagement Of
her daughter, Miss Mary c. Elliott, to
Harold Nichols Palmer, Of New London,
Conn. No date has been set for the
wedding.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

Announcement has been made Of the
engagement Of Miss Eugenlc Bissell,
daughter of DR.. and Mrs. Joseph o. Bis
sell, of &c West 55th st., to Laurence
Millet, Of this city, son Of Mrs. Frank
D. Millet, of Russell House, Broadway,
Worcestershire, England. Mr.. Millets
father was lost when the Titanic sank.
New-York tribune., 1914-09-30

The marriage Of Miss Gwendolin 3.
Condor, daughter Of Mr.. and Mrs.
Thomas &. Condon, Of 90 East J7th ST.,
TO Philip Armour, son of Mrs. Patrick
4. Valentine, will take place in this
city in January. The exact date has not
been set. The engagement was an
nounced two months ago. Mr.. Armour
has gone to Chicago to enter business
with his uncle, 3. Ogden Armour.
The Holly chieftain., 1914-10-09
FOREIGN.

Among the latest deaths on the field
of battle is that of Guy de CassaSnac,
editor of the newspaper Autofite at
Paris.
Sir Charles Johnston was elected
lord mayor of London for the term OF
one year, beginning Nov. I. 1914. He
succeeds Sir Thomas v. Bpwater.
Holland has given assurances that
it will prevent the expectation Of food
stuffs from Holland to Germany or to
other countries nov at war.
The war is costing France $1,000
0e0 day. Minister of Finance Alex
andre Ribot announced that the out
lay for the first sixty days of the con-
flict had been $42O.0OC 900.
Another floating mine, according to
advices received at Rome, has explod-
ed near Rimini, Italy. blowing up a
fishing boat. killing nine of its crew
and injuring number of others.
The slowo Polski, newspaper pub
lished in Lemberg. Galicia, says that
before Lemberg was taken by the
ANh6osoho, thC dhCCtolS vi
banks left the town, carrying with
them the deposits Of their patrons.
Frank Deedmeyer, formerly Ameri-
can consul at Chemnitz, Germany, has
arrived in London with his wife from
that city. In an interview published
In the London Times he described in
suits that were offered him by Chem.
nitz mobs, which were irritated by the
fact that he and his wife conversed
in English.
DR.. John George Adami of Montreal,
one of the worlds foremost authori
ties on tuberculosis, has enlisted as a
private in the battalion which is being
raised at McGill university for service
in Europe. DR.. Adami presided over
the 1908 International Tuberculosis
congress in Washington and has been
showered With honors because Of his
reserch work.
The Holly chieftain., 1914-10-09
BULLETS FLY
IN NAC0, AR|z.
MEXICAN eELLioERENTS OVER
THE LINE RIDDLE AMERI.
CAN TOWN.
Is YAQUls EXECUTED
PROTEST SENT TO PRESIDENT
WILSON ~ CITIZENS OF
BORDER TOWN.
Western Newspaper Union News Service.

Western Newspaper Union News Service.
Naco, Sonora. Mex. Oct. 5.-Terrific
rifle fire Of the two Mexican armies
here today swept the border and rid.
died the American town of Naco, Ari
zona.
Governor Maytorena, the Villa lead.
err, with his Yaqui Indians. is directing
a continuous fire against the intrench-
ments occupied by General BENJAMIN
Hill and the Carranza defenders of the
town. General Herrera and 1000 men
are reported on the way to reinforce
HILL Many have been killed by sharp
shooters on both sides.
Casualties within the town were con.
fined to the execution of twenty-five
Yaquis during the night in sortie.
The garrison Jared better than the oh.
servers on the American side, where
an American boy was shot in the hand
and two United States cavalry horses
were struck. by stray Mexican bullets.
Foreseeing the difficulty of an ac-
tive assault, the two warring factions
are reporting to be egotiating ces-
sation of hostilities through two com
missioners.
Colonel Guilfoyle of the American
border patrol warned the besiegers
and the besieged against shooting
across the international line.
In addition, the Naco, Ariz., citizens
committee sent the following telegram
to the PRESIDENT:
1--WE and all American citizens OF
this border town respectfully and ur-
gently apply to you for adequate pro-
lection for the lives of our families
and ourselves from the battles be-
tween the Mexican factions now en-
gagged in this vicinity on Mexican soil.
Thousands of bullets are carelesslys or
maliciously fired into our streets and
buildings, compelling us to abandon
our homes and causing US to suffer
great hardships and danger"
Additional ammunition has arrived
for both sides. More is expected.
The Holly chieftain., 1914-10-09
GENERAL.

Receipts at New York from duties
paid at the custom house were $424,-
016, of which $20S,544 was for recent
importations.
The platform adopted by the Re-
publican state convention at Wor-
cester, Mass, expressed sympathy to
every people suffering from the raw
ages of war"
The Italian freight steamer Cerea,
reaching New York from Italian ports,
was detained at quarantine until exx-
animation could make sure it was
free from Asiatic cholera.
Seven thousand women, dressed In
white, marched through the business
section Of Cleveland, Ohio, in the in.
terest Of the suffrage amendment to
be voted on at the November election.
The Du Pont Powder Company has
Joined the movement to relieve the
cotton situation In the South by pur.
chasing outright cotton to the value Of
$325,000, 1t was announced at VII.
mington, Del.
Industrial Workers of the World
leaders who handled the money con-
tributed for the relief Of the strikers
during the industrial conflict at Law.
renee in 1912 were ordered by Judge
Hammond Of the Supreme Court at
Boston to return $4,000 to the court
within ten days.
Cornelius N. Bliss, Jr, president Of
the New York Association for I'm.
proving Conditions for the Poor, an,
nounced that the association has re-
ceived from the Rockefeller founda.
tion gift Of 5000. 900 to be used dur.
ing the next ten years for pensioning
widows with dependent families now
in the care Of the association bureau
of relief.
The Holly chieftain., 1914-10-09
Reserve Bank officers Chosen.

Washington, Oct. The federal re-
serve board has announced the class
C or federal directors Of the San Fran
cisco and Dallas federal reserve
banks. They are: San Francisco :
John Perrin, Pasadena, Cal. federal
reserve agent and chairman of the
board of directors; Claude Catch, San
Francisco, deputy agent and vice
chairman, and Charles B. Peabody, Sc
attic, director. Dallas-E. o. Tenni-
son, Dallas, reserve agent and board
chairman; w. F. McCabe, San An
tonic, deputy agent and vice chair
man, and Felix Martinez, Ell Paso, d.
rector.