The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-04

Paris by the best dressmakers and
,ailors. but in almost all cases II was
dyed Next winter, however, natural
atch will be extremely popular. II will
be used TO trim the collars cuffs and
beaques Of long coats, similar to that
shown in one OF the drawings published
this week
Ft,ch IL beautiful whom introduced on
attns or golfne materials in a. deep
sAade OF cream which may almost be
called yellow. in fact in the exact shade
of the nghtest part of the fur itself.
On again IL loolos smart when used in
conjunction with pale brown velvet or
ysye,esn- In Paris, carly In the
autumn season, tho Rue Do Ia Paix
dressrnakers were introducing undyed
6tcn on bright blue materials: chiffon
vslvss. silk caAhmere, DUN corded silk. &C.
Ny porvcna opinion Il that tho con-
trust between these shades of blue and
tbe bright yellow Of the fur IN too
Stirling TO be in perfect tnste. Fitch
b Of all Zines a very remarkable look
~ fur, Il attracts attention even when
uSsd IN very small quantities: II Ger
{naniy u at its best when introduced on
materials which tone with either its
yet1Ow or It's brown nntA
n spealsing of natural fitch I must
M fo~evt to mention that this fur will
II vcry much used for the curious
souase collars which will be seen on the
,ooee picturesque coats which are 60
Inn 20 be fashionable this winter. These
fuS collars were launched at Monte
CsSio ae long ago as last January.
pemernber seeing them exploited by
famous Partisan actresses on coats
made Of velvet and of golflns.
Tne collars are partly sailor in out
tina but they hardly show In front.
rney fall over the back of the coat like
a curious little square mat and they are
effective when made of skunk, htch.
sable, II expense has not TO be eonsid-
cred: astraltan or breitschwanz
THIS afternoon In a very fashionable
restaurant saw a pretty girl wearing
loose coat. belted in at the waist and
made OF golden yellow golflne and An
.shei with square collar OF natural
Atch Win this coat she wore fiat
hrimmed hat made OF black silk beaver
and the only trimming was a long her
on's feather. which jutted out at the len
side. II was tho smartest getup you
could Imagine.
Another delightful coat OF the same
order was made OF pale gray blue golf
me and the collar was in black brett
schwana There We're large buttons
covered with breitschwanz and the
same costly fur completely covered the
coQuettsh little tr!corne.
I. "a predicted that caracul and as
;rakhan will have a great vogue this
winter Anything that suggests Rus
s!a IL certain 10 be popular in France
and also in England. Smart coats
,hree-Quarter length. made OF caracul
VIII BE- finished with suede belts. EN-
hro.dcred IN thick silks and small porce-
lain beads. These coats will have deep
sailor collars made OF skunk or ermine
and the buttons used will be OF the
same embroidered suede as that on the
belt
Velvet coats OF the same order will
be very fashionable. Many of these
garments are loose and apparently
shapeless. like the silk Jersey coatee.
which are the rage OF the present mo-
ment a very famous Paris tailor re
Gently told me that trtcot coats. hall
ELK and half wool, would be worn by
the smartest women this winter. an6
that these coats would show the curious
square collar, OF skunk or other fur
above described.
Sketches OF two beautiful Lewis mode
hats are printed this week Both hat:
were shown in the B!arritz show room:
which belong TO this famous firm. The,
afe original in design but quite sitnpl,
In outline, Just the sort OF hat that G
really elegant woman would Hike e
wear when paying visits to intimate
friends, or for afternoon teas at smar
restaurants.
No, is close fitting shape covered
with thick silk In a dull shade OF puce
The outings OF picot edged ribbon ar
IN an artistic shade OF purple and. th'
httle mounts are made OF fine blacl
horseha!r The harmony OF colo
SHOWN in this hat is exceedingly effec
i've The rich shades of puce and pur
pie blend we'll. and the touch of blacl
supplied by the horsehair mounts give
tone to the whole creation.
No, is very Partisan In outline
Thls is one OF the quaint high shape
"h''h pretty Frenchwomen wear witt
peculiar grace. The hat itself Is GOV
efed with black velvet. and the trim
ming consists Of a wide band Of blacl
more ribbon and a fancy mount mad
OF white horse hair. with a hat OF thi
ord"r the hair should be dressed YER
close TO the head, a little loose kiss cur
appearing over the ear at one side
have seen this shape copied 4
moon.lght-hlue velvet, with a beautifu
crimson rose placed at the right sid
instead Of the white mount. hav
also seen II carried out entirely 1
shades OF purple, with cluster c
farma vIolets dropping over the mario,
hrm
Some Of the new hats intended 70
forming wear are supple shapes mad
81 ribbed velvet With hats OF TIL
E'h7 everything depends upon the mar
nor m which they are worn. In IN
mana they look like boys caps. br
"'"n 'l'verly put on. with a single ros
o'o"p'ng over the left ear, they ar
eh"I'ngIy coquettish and becoming.
Those curious little hats are made 1
mo popular shades OF blue and ais
!" various tints of brown, orang
groom and violet. A wonderfully attraC
Two H''.c velvet hat OF the order ju,
u.N.i'''d was made OF deep oranr
''''l velvet and was trimmed with
IA 30 whit" water lily set in black sati