davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
Pannier or Lampshade.

The tunic movement is still seen, but &c
altered and diversified one almost Graves
a new name to distinguish 1t from the
ugly and happily now defunct lanpshade
affair Draperies that bring about
punched appearance after the genre OF
panniers and much drawn in about the
feet are effected in variety Of ways.
In the case Of a blue gown slight
double bouffant occurred at either side,
while at the back the draperies were
hitched up over a petticoat of dull gold
lace The latter. accompanied by q gold
Rauze, fashioned a, curious little corsage,
the waist of which was carried over that
Of the skirt and finished with three wee
frills. Again, the drawn-up folds are to
be seen in front when a considerable
amount of gathering will be introduced at
the waist. or contrasting draperies are
arranged over pleated mousseline de sole
skirts
Without being in any way extreme,
original designs for house gowns are SUI
fciently representative Of what is to
come. One is arranged in bleu de mutt
satin, or souple MORE would be really
newer, with the draped-over dress and
one side the bodice OF dull red brocade
patterned with old mauve. blue and re-
lieved by touches Of black and pale gold.
regular Persian colorings. tempered by
q narrow hem OF brown. For the be-
coming Medici the very finest maline
lace Is used. delicately wired, as is now
the way, though the real importance OF
this model lies in the correctness Of the
silhouette.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
By BERNARD, SO Avenue
l'opera, Paris.

Taffeta, supple as the underlying plum
age Of the wood pigeon, is the chosen fab
ric for many Of the smartest spring COS
TUNES Some Of the modes are originat-
ed from plain and plaid taffeta combined.
while chiffon broadcloth also proves eff
fective when united with certain of the
newest silks. This union of materials
really helps to accentuate the air Of
quaintness that distinguishes SO much Of
the dress of the day.
In the model pictured in the above col
umns a very fine chiffon broadcloth Is
combined with plaid taffetango. The skirt.
with its distended pufings. is decorated
with a broad band Of the silk, which en-
phasizes the bouffant drapery. Decidedly
picturesque IL the short plaid coat, with
its faring basque and button trimmed
belt. The long sleeves are rather tight
fitting. a mode that Is revived in some OF
The prettiest suits In striking contrast
are the Wide cavalier cuffs bound with
broadcIoth and fringed with buttons.
Worn with this smart suit is flowing
collar Of white organdie that adds mucn
daintiness to the creation.
On the taunty hat that completes TINS
spYing costume narrow band OF the tar
fetango Is drawn around the brim and
ted n a small bow In the center front a
noddinR plume Of raven hue crests this
eonfecfion. that Is so reminiscent of the
styles Of long ago.
Another Of the Interesting innovations
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
LACE BRIDAL CAPS
LATEST FROM PARIS

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS. March /, 1914.
There is a good deal of lace in the new
clothes, and after a long reign Of net
and tulle the change is plasing. rune
and net are still much used. oul tney
share their place with lace.
Lace blouses to wear with the rev
coat suits of gabardine, taffeta- poplin
and other thin materials are charming.
Sometimes lace and colored tulle are
combined. One blouse which might serve
as an inspiration to the home dress
maker is made OF white lace, with q
wide band Of golden yellow tulle folded
softly into a narrow strap ana iasIsieu'
suspender-wise. over the sEouloe!s.
There is a wide folded girdle of the tulle
as we'll.
Black lace evening gowns for formal
wear are shown by some Of the houses
And plain and metallic lace are combined
with silk and satin for evening frocks.
Bridal Caps Of Lace.
The custom among brides Of today of
wearing the veil fastened back from the
face instead of demurely drawn over It
may be of interest to those interested
in feminism.
Why is it that the modern bride re-
fuses to cover her face? She USED TO
walk to the altar with covered face
willingly enough. Perhaps her change
Of attitude Is only another instance OF
woman's independence. For surely
bride with uncovered face looks more
independent than one yelled in tulle or
lace.
The small bridal cap that holds the
wedding veil securely away from the
face is made of the most wonderful lace
that money and effort can secure. SO
whatever the veil lacks in all-enveloping
size 1t makes up for in elaborateness.
The bridal cap. to answer all the re
quirements made of 1t, should be fash
toned of old lace. The longer its pedi-
gree the better. For laces are pedi-
greed Dealers in lace are quite as par
ticular to have a pedigree for the valuable
lace they buy as dealers in Thoroughbred
dogs are to get a long family tree for
their dogs.
AT a fashionable wedding not long ago
the bride wore a charming cap that
fared out in a sort of wired halo about
her face. 1t was fashioned from an old
French fan, Of rare lace. that had oeen
in her mothers family for generations.
It had been carefully removed from its
ivory sticks and shaped into little cap
the spreading edge Of the lace wired to
stand out about the face.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
What to Do With a Paint Box.

Tho world IL full Of color to the little
chan He likes 10 look at colored things;
n. v.nfs to be en- artist But when he
tries 20 mako color he gets into trouble
The paint daubs itself and everything
elsa Including his blouse and his race
ana his banda. II isn't the little chap
fault Very likely he hasn't the right
kind Of a paint box. and perhaps you
thouxht you hadn't the time to help him
paint. Take just q few minutes tomor-
rov snd start him on the high road 10
being an artist
The best kind Of a paint box to give
child IL q tin box holding eight cakes OF
soft. water color paints. red. orange, yell
low, green. blue, violet black and brown
in color. Such a box costs only - cents
at q kindergarten supply place, and
long-handled, thick. Japanese hrush-the
best to use with these paints-costs only
cents at the same shop. pao Oh wine
water-color paper. a tin OF clean water
and q soft cloth for wiping the orusn are
all the other materials necessary TOT the
little chaps painting.
Show him first how to put on the wash
This means covering large space OF the
water-color paper smoothly with one
color. Fasten the paper to drawing
board by means Of thumb tacks. The
brush Is dipped in water and filled full
of paint by rubbing it softly round and
round on one Of the cakes of paint. In
iiling the brush with paint. care should
be taken to keep the brush pointed. 1t
works better in this way. When the
brush IL full Of wet paint, show the little
chap how to draw 1t back and forth
across the paper with long. steady
strokes. When the paint in the brush is
used 1t Is filled full again. and the paint
ing Is continued until the paper is COW
cred with color.
Give this first painting of the child's a
name blue wash may be for him the
sky as he sees 1t in the morning. A
rosy wash Is his sunset sky A bright
red wash is the wallpaper for little sis
ters new doll house. A green wash is
the grass as he sees 1t in the park
Once a child learns how to put on
smooth color wash he is ready to do all
sorts Of artistic painting. sheet of
paper may be decorated with wide paint
ed lines across from top to bottom, and
equi-distant. to make more paper for a
dolls house. A dolls house wall border
Is made by painting a unit of design in
repetition on long, narrow strips of paper
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
TODAY'S HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS
By Mary Lee.

This unit may be a four-leaf clover, a
simple flower, q leaf. or Just q circle. The
little chaps book Of animal pictures will
give him models for painting. Laying
a sheet OF tissue paper over an animal
picture. trace the o:tline Tranafsr this
traced outline to = sheet Of painting
paper and let the child I'll II IN with color.
jungle full Of wild beasts results. Spot
ted leopards. striped sebraA grixxied
bears. tawny tigers appear under the
magic brush Of the little. artist. When
the paint dries the animals may be cut
out. the feet being attached to paper
rings. which makes them stand upriEht
in most lifelike fashion.
Soon the little chap will be finding his
own designs FOR painting. copying maya
ing a glorious time OF his own doing it.
Give him all the paper and paint he needs.
few spots on the table cover.
Jet, steel. pearl and bronze beads are
all seen IN the beaded shoe buckles.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
THE DAILY MENU.
BREAKFAST

BREAKFAST
Baked Apples Cereal
Dreaded and Fried Smells
Potato Puts Coffee
LUNCHEON
Baked Beans with Tomato Sauce
Brown Bread Preserves
Tea
DINNER
4 =
. Cream Of Potato Soup
Baked Fresh Ham kaie
flashed Drowned Potatoes
Picked Beets -. Apple'Sauce
Cinnamon Cake Conee
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
Pockets Possible.

No moro will civilized woman be a
creature minus a pocket, and in that re-
apect inferior to and envious Of the men,
who arc 30 far better equipped.
In future we are going to have big
pockets and lots Of them: and the elusive
handbag. having had its day. will cease
to b. The newest and smartest coats
have capacious hip pockets. in which one
thrusts ones hands. and swaggers in a
pose far more natural and effective than
the decadent ''slink' or 'slouch" which
some silly women have SO seduiously
practiced.
And the bunched-up panniers ard tun-
les that every one IL wearing provide
plenty Of possibilities for pockets.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13

Last years gown can be rescued from
It's questionable lines. Make it over.
using the many TERED tunic Of pleated
tulle.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13

Stitched patent leather collars and cuffs
make striking effect on coats Of Welt
skin cloth.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
AMERICAN FASHIONS.
BY LILLIAN E. YOUNG.

Much can be done with dotted net or
point d'esprtt as a dainty evening frock
material for young girls It is less ex-
pensive than the deep lace fiouncings and
makes a wonderfully pretty and lacey
looking dress. besides having the extra
advantage Of being double width.
As a yelling over one Of the delicate
shades Of charmeuse It viii be found
most pleasing For example, tho model
here sketched.
Maize colored silk is used for the skirt
which is quite plain. being simply draped
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13

Bright satin Innings to the sleeves o
afternoon gowns are turned up to form
cuffs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13

across the front by means Of a couple
Of folds laid under the belt. A little
nick is cut out OF the hem just over the
instep.
AS the blouse and tunic are Of the
point d'esprit, 1t will only require enough
silk for the skirt and sash girdle. The
latter has one long end hung in front
topped by a corsage flower.
The blouse needs a plain white net IN
der slip and it should be cut with kimono
sleeves. The blouse itself has sleeves In
one with narrow pieces cut out Of the
ends to form square tabs. A row of the
square tabs is set In above the girdle
and caught to the blouse. All the edges
are outlined with an extremely narrow
lace edging.
The tunic is cut In three parts. Both
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13

jet, steel. pearl and bronze beads are
all seen IN the beaded shoe buckles.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
COMBINATIONS. OF
BLACK AND WHITE

Ono sees an astonishing number Of all
black and black-andtwhite gowns. and
marvelously effective: and distinguished
they are. made IN the most diaphanous
faorics-lace. mousseYine de sole. tulle-
lovely little gown of black Spanish lace
nouncdng posed on white mousseline de
sole was very simply made. tho skirt Of
walking length. narrow and undraped,
with a deep tunio Of che lace reaching to
the knee and only slightly full. blouse
Of the lace and mousseline showed rather
full fronts, the neck open in slight V
shape
With Bolero.
over this was worn loose sleeveless
bolero, with wide-shaped corselet and
-pleated basque Of black charmeuse.
The toque was OF the new glitterfng
spun glass straw, black, with an upstand-
ing frill Of pliEse hleck tulIe. and a
rather high fluffy white ostrich mount
fiecked with jet The only touch of color
was gorgeous: rose of vivid crimson
panne worn at the waist.
White lace of heavy design is in the
same way posed IN black chiffon, and all
black gowns of lace: or tulle are lined
only with mouseeline de sole or chiffon,
the under part Being merely a close-ft-
ting princess slip of charmeuse or thin
the sleeves are nSt lined at all, and often
the only Opaque portion Of tho whole
gown is the inevitable wide draped corse-
let OF charmeuse; or velours. brocade or
metal tissue.
Fabrics and Colors.
Among tho new wooden materials Is We
lour de laine. fabric very like duve-
tyne. but softer and lighter. Gabardine is
another very soft and supple weaving
and there are many quite thin fancy WOOL
ems in the check and. Scotch tartan pat.
terms that are SC much in vogue at the
moment. but vii; soon become delnode
Crepe de chine Ia a rather heavy weav-
ing Is much used fol. girls evening and
ball frocks. and silk and wool crepe OF
similar texture.
1t Ia equally charming in the vivid rose
and cerise tints that are in favor. Roya
blue and tangerine are much used to pro.
vide color relief to white and black tot
lets, as corselet, tunic or even merely
as one of the gigantic velvet butterfly
bows posed at tie waist Other leading
colors are silver gray, water green sho'
with silver. geranium red. mulberry and
rather dark leaf green. while gold tissue
is as fashionable as ever.
Stitched patent leather collars and cuffs
make a striking effect on coats Of welt
Id 10th
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13
To Make Brown Bread.

One cup rye meal. three-quarters table,
spoon soda. one cup granulated cornmeal.
one teaspoon salt. one cup graham hour.
three-quarters cup molasses. two cups
sour milk, or one and three-quarters
cups sweet milk or water. Mix and sift
dry ingredients. add molasses and milk.
stir until well mixed. turn into well-but-
tered one-ppund baking powder boxes.
and steam two hours. The covers should
be warmed and buttered before being
placed on boxes. and then tied down with
string, otherwise the bread in rising
might force of covers. Molds should
never be filled more than two-thirds fulL
Guimpes can now be bought ready
made with vests or crepe de chine.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-03-13

the lower onee are stitched to . plain
net foundation that is yelled by the up
per founce. All show the same cutout
tabs around the lower edge. and it makes
q most effective border
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-15
Democracv-If the Kaiser Wins

TT is not merely to gain favor in this coun-
i try through American fondness for the
name democracy" that Count Won Berns-
torff and other Germans are prophesying an
accelerated advancement Of the democratic
principle as a result Of the present war. in
the Empire OF the Kaiser Mind you they
are not predicting the downfall of tho En-
plre, like those who assert that only through
such a disaster can democracy prosper They
see plainly that, whether or not the imperial
banners shall wave in final victory the
triumph Of democracy IS already In prog
ress Such a triumph is not of necessity
brought about by violent revolution, and,
moreover the thing that a people IS slowest
and most reluctant to change, or suffer TO
he changed, IS its form of government
The story OF triumphant political democ-
racy is a story OF accumulated constitutions
and charters grants and bestowals Usually
the possessor Of the power desired by the
people has parted with them grudgingly,
sometimes only as the result of coercion; but
often they have been transferred as gifts of
gratitude or rewards for service. 1t will be
exceedingly strange if the service Of the Ger
man people to the Fatherand in this crisis
is not rewarded and Count Won Bernstorff,
who is 10 a position 20 speak with some au-
thority. says that II viii he. That the issue,
IN their minds, IS no, autocracy versus de-
mocracy is ahuudant,y proved Iy tho atti-
rude Of the Socialists ,u the Reichstar and
the country ar large, for in Germany the
Socialists are the representatives OF political
democracy. The Germans are 6guting for
their country not for a new form of goven-
mcnt, and when all classes i'm n nation will
lngly bear heavy burdens for the same patr!-
otic cause there is bound 10 Ie in victory as
IN defeat a stronger sense Of Independence,
and finally larger measure Of political
equality. German democracy wins. which
ever way tho winds Of war may blow.
In England the cause of popular liberty
was mnryelously advanced, without coercion,
during the reign Of the greatest ahsoIutlst
among the Angevins, Henry IT, and, as Or.
Frederick a. Cleveland saws il. has book on
"Oraanlzed Democracy," ir has frequently
Jared better under "a monarchy than under Il
democratic form OF government
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-15

reject men who have prostituted the party to
their own purposes and are using it as a
cloak to hide their dellnquenoies and to con-
ceal their moral malfeasance 1t means a
willingness, even q PROMISE to place the pub
lie veal above the exlgencies of party
service Doctor Brumbaugh by word and
action, is seeking to disassociate himself as
much as possible from Penroseism,
MIR. Penrose commands q machine quite as
lnimical to the success OF the democratic
experiment in America az militarlsm is to
freedom and liberty in Europe Both are
autocrato, both destructive Of the finer per-
ceptons, both graspng and vengeful And
Penroselsm, in addition, is corrupt; noto-
rlously so. Better no protection and no Gus
toms houses whatever than to secure them
through such an instrumentalty.
Mr. Penrose in the minority is worth moth
ing to Pennsylvania In Washington. His
election would inhibit his being again in the
majority. When the Republicans control the
Senate they will not be Republicans Of the
Foraker and Penrose type.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-15
Quit Talking: Get Busy

TT7H people are for rapid transit They
l. are for 1t in hurry. Moreover, they
intend to get it They are tired Of the con-
stant pickering over minor sums, If this
we're poverty-strlcken municipality instead
Of one of the most lightly debt-burdened
cities of its class in the world They are
disgusted with the attitude that to get rapid
transit they must sacrifice other projects
They have no sympathy with back pulling
hesitant Statesmen, who are first. against
any appropriation whatever to clear the way
for actual subway construction, and, sec
ondlv, when threatened by an uprising Of
business men in protest, reluctantly consent
to provide the money; but only by taking it
away from some other mertorious and nee
essary Improvement The public Is positively
nauseated by the provincial vision of men
ing the imperial future of Philadelphia.
The United Business Mems Association to-
night should reject all compromise. 1t prob
ably will Certainly the membership will be
quite unable to appreciate the argument
that the city Is too poor to relocate sewers
and also build an Art Museum for the hous
ing Of some Of the most valuable art treas
ures in the world.
The Finance Committee Of Councils has
put itself in an utterly untenable position.
It can retrieve its reputation only by a
square and fair reversion Of policy. That is
what It is expected to do and what the busi-
ness men of this community should insist 1t
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-15
CURIOSITY SHOP

Despite all notions TO the contrary. history
does repeat itself occasionally, and from the
diary Of John Evelyn. "A contemporary Of Sam
uel Pepys, this appears proved. Under date OF
July 10, 1888 Evelyn wrote:
The public was now in great CONSERVATION
on the late plot and conspiracy; His Majesty
very melancholy. and not stirring without
double guards; all the avenues and private
doors about Whitehall and the park shut up.
few admitted 10 walk IN II.
THE Turks were likewise in hostility against
the German Emperor. almost masters OF the
Upper Hungary and drawing toward Vienna
On the other side the French King Cwho it is
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-15

believed brought In the infidsis) disturbing HE
Spanish and Dutch neighbors. having swal-
lowed up almost ali Flanders, pursuing his
ambition of nth universal monarchyi and
eli this blood and disorder in ohristendom had
evidently its rise from our defeotions at home
in a wsnton peace, minding nothing but luxury
ambition, and to procure money for our vices
To this and our irtelislon and atheism, great
ingrattude and self-interesti the apostacy Of
some. and the suffering the French to grow so
great, and the Hollanders so weak In word,
we were wanton, mad, and surfettns with pros
perity; every moment unssttling the old foun-
datlons. and never constant to anything. The
Lord in mercy avert the sad omen, and that
we do not provoke Him till He bear It no
longert
"This summer did we suffer twenty French
men-o'-war to pass our channel toward the
sound to help the Danes against the swedes,
who had abandoned the French interest, we not
having ready sufficient TO guard our coasts, or
take cosnisanoe OF what they did; though the
nation never had moro or a better navy, yet
the sea had never 80 slender a feet"
On July 10, 1889. Evelyn wrote in his diaryi
'"rhe Marshal de schomberg went now as gen.
eral toward ireland, to the relief of London
derry. Our fleet lay before Brest The Con-
federates passing the Rhine, beslege Bonn and
Mayence. to obtain passage into France. A
great victory gotten by the Muscovites, taking
and burning Perecop. A new rebel against the
Turks threatens the destruction of that tyranny.
Ali Europe in arms against France. and hardly
TO be found in history 80 universal face of
war"
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-15
THE IDEALIST

Due to the grace of God most Of us are
whole limbed
DO you know what 1t really means to be ao'
10 walk along with your legs doing their tpl
duty, with full-grown and unimpaired arms
swinging in harmony with your stride VITA
eyes seeing every passing thing, with ears hear
ing all sounds?
You will not know until you are deprived I"
one OF them.
Those Of us who are whole-limbed have Won
out in our chances. Those who not have
lost And the most matter-of-fact men on earn
will admit that life does contain huge deSrs'
of chance.
a crippled mana bright, cheerful chap-on''
gave the reason for his extreme and contmu"
state OF happiness. His reply made strong"
men Of his hearers
Because all Of my friends treat me as o'
~ themselves They offer me no regrets, WnieA
after all, are useless. They never refer 10 mI
misfortune. They talk freely with ma as
We're as well equipped physically as any o"
Of them"
There Is the secret-Ons of ourselves! TINE
Of 1t when rude instinct prompts you TO s'lH
at a cripple passing you on the street
There exists among most folk who have ossn
deprived of a partial Of their bodies ms'
degree Of sensitiveness with respect 70 o'
cussion Of their particular aiment. The slsp'
est mention Of the topic often sends the m'n'
Of such a one into season of broodins
Under this comes the too frequent eHtenaih,
Of sympathy the too much offered hano
help. Note how your unfortunate friend
proud to do things which you were not a""'
hc could do
Suffering humanity needs all the help you CO..
give, But do not forget that in extending hs'
"a mental attitude must be taken into considers
tion ms well as a physical deficiency.
DO not permit your helping efforts 10 emp'.
size the physical gulf between you and the oD
you help THE IDEALIST