Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-08-25

are tired of the tight skirts, If. when
auowed the freedom as to choice of
style, not one, nor, two, but many turn
toward the period when the greatest
width Of skirt was popular.
Not only in England was there a
great social event which showed this
tehoency. but In Paris also a wonderful
hai en- Crinolines" was given by the
Duchesse de Gramont, where ali the
costumes were Of this period.
Ih1s does not mean, however that
We VIII necessarily have revival of
the early Victorian styles in all their
quaint loneliness, for the woman OF
To-Day is a widely different creature
from the womanly home.maker of that
generation. She ia not less womanly.
but she leads different life; therefore
she will demand the style suggested
Dy that time, but made to suit her own
nle-one belonging to the period In
which she lives. Nor will the new
gowns resemble the old portraits of
this fashion any more than did last
years panniers resemble the panniers
OF Louis XIV, from which the designs
were taken.
However, the greatest thing to be
dreaded in adapting this style is exag.
gerat1on, which, alas, is to be dreaded
In all styles. Charming. indeed, are the
ruHled skirts II their width is kept
within bounds; but, II given the expan.
sion allowed the early part Of the last
century, will only again prove to what
lengths women will go for the sake of
dress.
Mtngling with these Victorian sug-
gest1ons are the long Russian .tunics
which have held their own because of
their many variations. Aprons, tunics,
scalloped tunics, tunics gradually mar
rowing in front, double tunics and
tunics which start at the hip line are
only few of the many ways in which
tunic effects are applied.
Just as diverse as the tunics are the
combinations of fabrics. One model
shows an overwaist in basque effect
made in velvet, worn over long sleev-
ed tulle guimpe and with skirt whose
tight fitting foundation shows through
tilmy, shimmering tunic Of tulle.
Chemise dresses inspired by the
moyen age frocks are being worn in
discriminatory by stout and slim alike
sometimes with dire results. A frock
which hangs like a sacque from the
shoulders to the heels is scarcely be.
coming to well developed figure,
whose charms may be displayed in
many of the other smart styles. But
when donned by slender woman
whose charm is youthful buoyancy, it
is irresistible. These gowns give a
silhouette quite different from the con
ventionalized one of the day, aptly call.
ed the plumbline silhouette. Satin
seems to be replacing taffeta in the
popularity of the public, but serges and
garbardines are continuing their vogue
and for the tailored costume nothing is
quite so smart. Usually braid in vari-
GUS widths, plain in weave, binds and
trims these suits.
The new style of dress called the
coat dress, with it's waist resembling
coat, yet fastened to the skirt thus
making a one piece dress, Is admirably
adapted to this mode of trimming.
These dresses are having a tremen-
dous vogue in Paris and no doubt are
forerunner of suits with long coats.
The jumper waists which are worn
over guimpes Of tulle. organdy and
chiffon suggest charming and prac-
tical way of remodeling an old gown in
! to the newest styles. These jumpers
are made in figured and plain material
with edges bound and wrinkled care