The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1914-05-03
nY FRANK q. CARPENTER.

Sand or moro miles through Ecuador
and Peru. ] now at tho southern
end OF IL, severnl hundred miles south
OF the region I have described in my
letters from Cerro dc Pasco. To reach |
Ce-ro, ] had to cross the mountains
nj ar altitude OF 1900 feet. The pass
by which I came here Is only 1000 f.
feet lo<cr, and Il was through n driv- |
ms snowstorm that ! slid over the !
mountains from the Pacific slope to
the Atlantic.
1t took mo throe days by rnil to get |
hero from tho ocean. My road was |
the Southern Railway OF Peru. which |
is ono of the best managed In the re- !
pu bllo. It's trains start time and !
set there. The ride here was compare
lively comfortable, although n part OF !
my Journey was not on tho express |
BY the fast trains It is possible 10 |!
reach Cusco from the ocean inside of |
three days / am taking four. In or
der that I may better zee the country |
and people. The first stage Of my
travels was up tho mountains from /
the port OF Mollendo to Arequipa. That
city Is tho metropolis or Southern Pc |
~. 1t Is 1000 feet above tho sea. and |
In reaching ii you cover only n lit |
tie more than half of the al.itud" TO |
the top OF the Andes stayed there |
for n day or SO. and then went on to
JuIiEca. town n short distance from |
Lake Ttticaca. The luttcr Journey re- |
CURED a full days railroad travel Dur
Ing II j crossed the pass of Crucero |
Alto. and In coming down to Juliaca |
fell TO height OF n little less thnn |
1900 feet. The high altitude affected |
me, end felt slight touch OF soroche |
ut the hotel whore VIC stopped over
night Juliaca is tho junction where |
the Southern Railroad divides; ono !
branch going southwark to Puno. on |
Lake Titicaca, and the other north.
ward over tho great plateau to tho
valley and ancient city of Cuzco. This
journey is made by the express In one |
day. Tho ordinary trains tnko two
days, and therefore utter nine hours
from Juliaca l have to stop overnight
at SicunnL Tomorrow ! shall resume
my Journey to the famed city OF the
1ncas. which is about 100 miles further
on
have already described the ride over !
the Peruvian desert from the ocean to
Arequipa. The journey from thcro to
the top OF the mountains il even more
wonneTtul: on start from the level of
Mexico city ana wind your way around
Mount Misti, which is more than $4,000
. ieei hish. and az the Same time you
can see other mountains. such AZ Cha
chachni. which are more than four
miles above the sea and which are COW |
cred with snow all the year round !
Higher still thore are mountains COW
cred with Eincicrs, and on tho way up
SEQ glncicrs In the far distance. which ,
must cover many square miles,
through sRno paI OF the The way soIs
OF Mount Misti is covered with great
blocks OF black lava, md the mountains !
that Wall this high valley in the region |
where now am have Niagaras of lava |
which seem TO have been frozen ms thew |
flowed from the craters above down the ,
slopes In places you look over walls !
Of such rock 900 feet high. and above
them SEQ glaciers on mountains that |
are more than four miles In height Al |
times these mountains rise up llls. a !
great white rampant OF Irregular shane. |
kissing the sky; and again they ex-
as your eyes can reach.
The vegetation changes the moment
you near the top OF the Andes AS YOU
climb the western slope Mt an altitude
OF two miles or more the grass begins:
when you cross the pass and como down
to the plateau you are in . region of
SOD covered with TUFTS of wiry grass |
which arc too coarse for anything but /
the llamns. The plateau itself is Gov
cred with Jocks of sheep and alpacss !
There are herds OF cattle. and YOU see
droves OF llanas loaded with goods OF !
ono Kind or another being driven nlonr |
There are Indian villages at every fen
miles, and In places the panpa is spot-
ted with low mud huts rooted With
straw. each OF which is tho homo OF an
llamas nearby. Everywhere on the
sides OF the valley are the remains or
the cultivation of the Incns. There aro
terraces that. run from the plateau for
thousands OF feet up the mountain.
These terraces were walled with stone,
and whore possible the water was car
ried from level TO Level In many
places the terraced farms had no water.
and an, the crons grown depended upon
And Just here ! want TO give you an
idea n , OF the &c, fa ,F that goes on away
NTke average altitude Of the ss0 res MSn'd
refer to is 1900 or $4,000 feet above
the hen seq a and IT,, runs from tha, to
of acres of such land In Peru; win n
climate IN which white men can live
Ihey comprise great part OF the I
Woo valley that runs north and south /
throngh the continent. ana AT this al
titude the support hundreds OF thou
OF cattle ana millions of nlpacas
namas and sheep; The highest Of the
pia,ns are covered with native grasses.
earth Scattered over them are tho
tHfts OF wire grass. the new sprouts
TIE coars.r Stunned BY all but the
I!hmas. Here and there near every
Indian nut j. small patch OF potatoes
doubt but that the whole region MIN
tie plowed up and greatly improved
And this brings me to the movement,
Ter Ter s1 the tm,pro%emgen' Of the hieh
!nauSurated by the Peruvian corpora
ton, British company. mai has
charee OF The railroads for the gov
the United States Tor one Of it's nerj9
cultural experts, ana he is now ex-
per'nncnting here In different places
TO hnd out the best l~assea and hcef
grains TO be grown upon the plateau
The man chosen was Harry V. Har-
Ian, the agroninist. In he barley in
vestigations of our Department Of Az
riculture. lie came here seven
months ago, and Is ALREADY maxim
good progress. met Mr. Harlan n
Juliaca. and went with him to some
Of the experiment Btatious He has
one little farm Of four or I'VE acrna
right near the railroad and this hos
been planted to cereals and grasscs of /,
verious kinds. He showed mo one |
fifty rows. each from seed pathored !
from a different part OF the world |
Some OF the barley came from SMYRNA !
some from serv!a. and sorne from rus, |
STA and the Western Highlands Of the [