davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-01-25
YOUR VISITORS.

TT is in very bad taste to urge your tall
ented friends who are visiting you to
perform for the benefit Of other guests.
On the other hand. it sometimes hurts
their feelings if you do not ask them if
they will sing or play. or do whatever
else they know how to do while they are
visiting you.
The talented girl in America is some
what unusual. The american girl can
sing a little and perhaps play little and
dance a great deal and do almost every
thing else with varying degrees of sue
cess But She does not often specialize
on such accomplishments as singing and
playing. Her English cousin still looks on
these accomplishments as decidedly de-
sirab'e and acquires them at the expense
OF much time and money.
One such English girl who was visit
ing friends in America daily underwent
panss of modification and hurt feelings.
People did not ask her to play and sing,
ynd she thought they did not like her.
At home she was always invited to show
off, when she was visiting. and she could
not understand the attitude of her Ameri-
can friends.
So for the sake of such persons as this
it is well always to ask your friends that
sing play to do SO. II they accept
your invitation. well and good. II they
decline do not urge them. 1t is quite as
bad taste to urge persons who do not
care to entertain you as to rail- TO ask
those who wish to entertain you
The person who urges should remember
this story of the composer Chopin he
was modest man. and SO. one evening
after dining at the home of an acquaint-
refused nl2v for him and his
other guests. The friend urged, finally
appealing to Chopin by saying that Liszt
and all the other great musicians who
had dined with him had played after
ward
"Ah." sighed Chopin. but have eaten
so little.
Never trge your guests to pay for your
hospitality.
Evening star., 1914-01-25

anese embroidery patterns are scattered
over the surface of voiles
Crepe de chine. cotton crepes. volles and
ratines have twig and small blossom ef-
fects. spots. stripes. crescents. geometrl-
cal designs and many other patterns, all
worked out in colorings which are soft
as well as brilliant.
All these materials will be made up in
combinations. For instance. where a
fancy figured and a plain color are used
together in the same costume, the plain
shade will match either the ground or
the design of the printed or figured fabric.
A printed ratne may be used for waist
and tunic with a plain crepe or volle
skirt, or a one-tone matelasse ratine VIII
be combined with a plain voile in like
shade.
Rich plaids in novelty cotton crepes are
new. They will be used in combination
with plain tone crepes or ratines for coat
and skirt costumes. where the coat is
made of a plain tone ratine. and the
skirt of the plaid crepe, or the reverse
can be the method of combination. both
of which will be fashionable. Plaid en-
broderies will also be used as borders on
sheer white cotton voileS. They are
worked out in various colors adapted
from Scotch plaids.
Evening star., 1914-01-25

suggest to every woman some scheme
for herself.
There are waistcoats of plaid silk
which touch off somber suit of dark
blue serge, or black or green duvetyn.
in an acceptable way. Belts of plaid are
not as good as those of duh Roma n
striped ribbon. but the latter idea may
have been worn too much to suit a fas-
tidious mind. Plaid pockets are placed
on dark skirts, and for summer wear
there are plaid cottons, not the well
known gnghams. but novelty materials
that are cool and often transparent
II one has spring suit that Is a trifie
cool for some days between March and
June the plaid silk waistcoat serves
well under coat that shows it Women
who cannot stand the coat open in the
foolish way some coats have of drop
ping to the waist line before the first but
ton is fastened will find the soft waist
coat that fastens to the collar real
protection.
That idea has been well worked out
during the winter with vests. single
breasted. of chamois or duvetyn. Bro
caded ones were worn with the suits
calling for dressy accessories. The
howered silks make good choices for
the spring suit if one does not care
Tor plaid. and 1t is an acquired taste
for adults.
BY turn of destiny the double
tunics with the close knife pleating
are wearable again without a qualm
on the part of their possessors For a
Tune last summer there were dozens of
women who wished they had never
seen them.
Callot invented the model. and, like
an the models from this French house
vii flC1t NtAsl |,
salers that it flooded the country
within two months of it's appearance
Its price was $500 in the beginning.
and one could buy it for SIG before
June. Now that Cheruit has invented
box -pleated tunic for spring wear
the old Callot model will be revived
by women who have held on to it,
This new tunic is something on the
order of the Russian blouse. for it is
quite certain that the land of the czar
has not lost its sartorial influence on
us as interpreted by Leon Bakst and
the dressmakers. The cossack hat is
Evening star., 1914-01-25

with us as strongly as ever, so are the
long blouses and the ornate girdlc.
All the east lends itself to us, how
ever. through the Russian influence.
and that is why its hold on us is so
powerful.
There is the Japanese collar. for eN-
ample. which the extremists will tell
YOU is entirely out oS fashion. But is
it" One sees IL on many good gowns
possibly not in its original interpreta-
tion. but certainly as reelection OF
Japan. The most unknown feature OF
fashion that Japan has put upon us
is the ornamental crest at the back Of
the coat or the blouse. Premet used
ii first. for he copies his gowns direct
from old Japanese prints, Poiret
copies his creations from rare Persian
drawings and pictures.
This crest is universal in Japan, and
the monogram of the stranger Is en-
broidered between the shoulders of the
outer jacket when the garment is made
in that country. You may have no.
ticed this display of handwork on the
genuine garments that are brought
over here. and did not know its sig
nification.
Premet does not put the monogram
on every woman's garment that he
makes. but he probably follows out
some suggestion given by the wearers
name. 1t is a clever way to ornament
coat or blouse and one can have
pleasure in designing a fantastic sym
Dol to stand for the initials of the
name. or the crest of the house can he
varied to an acceptable form.
Last autumn there was "A distinct inn
provement in the management of the
narrow hens of our skirts by the lap
ping of the front panel over in the
middle, adjoining the two edges. with
silk covered elastic. Now unfortu-
nately. that method has been displaced
by the wide V in the front seam which
does not give half enough room for
walking. to say nothing of dancing in
the afternoon. When the material is
of duvetyn. or such perishable fab
ric. that small V rapidly turns it,
self into an enormous U. There is
also a slash in the back seam to help
out but it does not really help.
The number of helps in that SEN
tence sound like a call for help. And
there is such a call.
Evening star., 1914-01-25
Handsome Window Draperies.

A RTISTIC but inexpensive portieres
"A are made from burlap embroidered
in raf1a. There should be a fringe top
and bottom about three inches deep.
double knotted. The embroidery may
be a border down the edge or across
the ends or a large design may be
placed in the enter Of each curtain.
Choose colors that will harmonize with
your wall paper and look well on the
natural tan of the burlap.
For bedroom. sash curtains Of the
cr!nkly crepe that is sold for under
wear are pretty and practical This
overhangjng may be made of gray blue
gingham, stenciled in a conventional
design in dark blu
Evening star., 1914-01-25
Notes ON New and Attractive Lingerie

than beading: although, of course. the
buttonhoing is tedious when one must
do it ones self.
Hand embroidery is still used on the
finest French underwear. We use more
lace than the French do. and its soft
daintiness makes up for the exquisite
embroidery that we do not find time to
use. However. the French embroidery
has charm ours does not possess. pro-
duced by the wonderful embroidery and
the tiny frill or edging of fine valencien-
mes lace.
Evening star., 1914-01-25
For the Children.

KINDERGARTEN cards to amuse chill
h dren may be fashioned from colored
pictures found in vegetable and floral
catalogues and other books and maga-
zines. Put piece of heavy white paper
under the colored picture and prick with
a pin all around it. There will be an
outline of the same thing on the white
paper. and the design may then be sewed
froh hole to hole with a brisht-colored
yarn or embroidery cotton.
Evening star., 1914-01-25

French never show that line. They are
always rounded. more or less. To ac-
centuate this eurNing is therefore not
so absurd on their figures as on ours.
The waistcoat blouse. which Cheruit
introduced last summer has grown in
power and is now accepted as the best
way out of troublesome question. We
do not need to worry about the belt
when there Is peplum to cover the line
where the skirt joins the blouse. The
peplum is short and rounded in front.
and as a rule there is narrow belt
across the back. with waistcoat buckle.
This pattern is good. by the way. for
the thin white wash blouse to go with
white skirts in summer. The belt may
be of colored ribbon and instead of the
manniSh buckle there may be an orna-
mental one. Large rhinestones are taboo
for the moment.
There are pleated skirts on the horizon
for those who like thea but they are
consistently narrow at the hem. The
pleats are laid sidewise and held down
by tape placed inside. They do not give
the fullness which some women fondly
hope they do. In this case the word
"pleated' means nothing but a form of
drapery on the old silhouette.
If YOU are wearied of the draped or
the plain skirt. in the pleated one you
have a chance Of change. Remember
that it is not an easy model to achieve
Its difficulties are often tear-producing
to the amateur.
In the placing of pockets. the other
new fashion of the day, there are no
difficulties. They are easy. They are
placed now on the sides of the skirt as
ornaments; they are not intended for
service. The making of them is too
varied for a casual treatment for they
offer themselves UP a sacrifice to the
scissors and the colorists The mannish
girls. especially those who affect. the
sports of the hour. have a fashion of
running their hands in them after the
manner of boys.
There are also small pockets on the
wide belts worn with the coats that have
short fronts. and the waistcoat blouses
have pockets above the waist line or at
the bust.
The growing preference for plaid in
ones costumery has spread rapidly. One
sees 1t used in a variety of methods that
Evening star., 1914-01-25
Care of Fine Iaces.

ZINE pieces of real lace, lace fans
and expensive handmade handker-
chiefs may be kept white il rolled in blue
tissue paper sprinkled with magnesia.
Fold the pieces lightly, place them in
box and keep in a dry place. Some wom-
en- mix pure indigo bluing with the pow
der. 1t must be lump blung. as the other
might cause rust marks.
Evening star., 1914-01-25

over. it is even more dura Bile than one
made of chiffon and crepe
Bands of insertion of valencennes lace
are stitched together and then used for
the yoke and sleeves of nightgowns.
These are sometimes cut in one piece. in
kimono fashion. ard sometimes the
sleeves are cut separately and set in.
Many of the loveliest pieces of French
lingerie are made with buttonholed Sits
through which tha ribbon is run. This
is a much more durable arrangement
Evening star., 1914-01-25

which is rather long. is the short coat
with the square postllion back. 1t is not
new. We have worn il all winter. But
it seems to be the best solution of what
to wear in summer as far as jacket is
concerned. Its fronts are growing shorter
each week until they are little more than
boleros now.
The real bolero is the accepted jacket
of the moment among some of the fash
ionables 1t is quite natural that it should
come into style in connection with the
Evening star., 1914-01-25
A. Good Paste.

A PASTE that will keep long time
a is made by dissolving one ounce
of alum in a quart of warm water
When cold, add flour enough to make
1t the consistency Of cream, then stir
into 1t teaspoonful Of powdered
rosin. Boil to the proper consistency.
stirring. all the time. It will keep
for many months and when dry may
be softened with water.
Evening star., 1914-01-25

like many other fashions in clothes, as in
other things, it has remained and grown
until people accept it and turn it into
good account.
Many of us now wear the bunched-up
drapery at the end of the spine, and
see in it something quite effective. 1t
is strange fashion to come out at
time when the so-called debutante slouch.
which will go into sartorial history with
the Grecian bend, rules the posturing of
the hour.
Evening star., 1914-01-25

Probably it is intended to Offset the
slouch; but woman would look strange
indeed if she attempted both. There is
no telling what she may attempt, but
SO far we have been spared that COM
bination. Frenchwomen are still buying
those little rubber pads to wear on the
stomach. but. fortunately for our good
sense we did not take to that ridiculous
idea. The figure of the American woman
is more square than round We are apt
to be fiat between the hips, while the
Evening star., 1914-01-25

output of Mexican fashions. From that
source we get the wide sashes of the
hour, the gold embroidery and the long
wrist
When Premet introduced that hustle
on his early winter gowns, it was re-
ce,ved with incredulity as to its popu-
larity and a good deal of scorn. Yet,
Evening star., 1914-01-25

ISut this was the only one the observer
.emembers. Even in September. when
the ripping coat was tentatively put
forth as new kind of jacket, it had so
few followers that today the fashion
seems new to those who do not observe
from the watch towers.
VIII il succeed this season? No one
can answer that question. But 1t Is to
be reckoned with as a factor In apparel
II is very good to look at. and strongly
reminiscent of those sport coats that
Burberry of London introduced two years
ago. and which made the long. slim ulster
look commonplace in a twinkling.
a few of these coats ara reedcd at the
hem to flare after the manner of the
,nnaret tunic. but the smart method of
cutting them leaves no reason to use so
str an Instrument as reed to keep the
flllness 9ut at the hem.
In direct contrast to this kind OF jacket,
Evening star., 1914-01-25


SIMPLY EDGED RUFFIE OF WHITE
RUFFLE WHICH OPEN FRONT
CHIFFON, EDGED
=
HEAD B EASILY
BY H
A
Evening star., 1914-01-25

shops put out an effective
appeal these days 20 the mind
of the woman who prides her
self on having her lfe's
.boraS Ipn, befO necessity
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-05-23
Scriirn Is
Popular
Jt2APERY FABRICS FOR SUMMER ARE
-
|. BOTH DAINTY AND DURABLE

in chintz and brocade, and now the
makers of lace are reproducing the
eccentric tree, the picturesque pa
CODA, the languid ladies' and the
mated doves. Those who seek novel
ties will find curtain materials which
are both new and interesting in these
quaint Chinese designs which suggest
the patterns of old willowware,
Oriental net is very appropriate
summer fabric, as its sheerness and
delicacy are scarcely surpassed In
any other material. Plain bobbin net is
one of the smartest materials, where
the necessity for screening room
from the outside world requires that
the curtains cover the window. 1t
is appropriate for either long cur
tains or sash curtains and may be
finished all around with one Of the
narrow braids sold for the purpose.
A plain hem draws in the launder-
ing: therefore the braid is desirable.
Scrim in its finest varieties mas
querades as something newer, under
the name of marquisette, and is very
satisfactory because of its plain sur
face and durability. II is shown now
with pretty borders that obViate the
necessity for stripes, which are usu-
ally OF a satin weave, with various
patterns between them, or with q
design of color, or a design carried
out in the rough weave called
madras. In some cases the border is
woven of silk, which gives a satin
effect especially pretty in contrast
to the delicate creamy marquisette
Scrim is also woven in a variety of
alloVer squares and stripes, all imi-
tating various patterns of drawn
work.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-05-23

s45 Cur tains too thin to shut out the
breS ze too flmy to catch the summer
fsnAst. too transparent to oppose Il
single sunbea m-these are the drap-
eries -of summer. Materials light in
s:sMsight and light in color are a relief
wfr6rns the rich draperies appropriate
to winter, when the cold weather
efha4xes ii pleasant to look upon dark
Sdaied fabrics for deep colors give a
yeense- of warmth, and at night, when
Curtains are drawn, appear to close
9iffi9ffe room with an air of intimate
comfort.
"a. irFsasc who provide drapery fabrics
H7isives borne this fact well in mind in
kEesis5rlng the curtain materials OF
5if,ss spring. Transparent and gauze-
4a5e, they scarcely screen the light at
ltfl97 ana their little designs of sprigs
-6fTpots of flowers and of geometric
,'a9eles seem floating in mist OF
ss5ffened light.
Nottingham although among the
'tTeHSJest of laces, appears this spring
in designs of charming daiptiness, in
-fTf,tfy square and round mesh. Stripes,
also. Gre shown, and give character
JE5i4HeT sheer fabric. In the filet net
.sof this season the squares have been
eattsfed to oblongs, which brings a
s4sbvefBy in effect and design without
aenastg3ng the general character This
flet net is a very practical material
afefyst can be cut on any line between
5tfse squares and will not ravel if left
4siiasopt them or finish of any kind.
Itanp inexpensive laces are also to
be- had which are bordered on either
sTSfe with a narrow edge so that they
garel specifically ready to hang.
N x5pattern which is decidedly move
sssegtise Chinese landscape. For some
time this design has been familiar
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-05-23

We have many comfortable fads
this season to leaven the absurd
and uncomfortable ones; overblouse
flocks with underbodices of net, lace
or organdy should be chamingly cool
and attractive a little later when we
begin to look for GOODNESS before any
thing else. 1t saves wear and tear,
too, as the first place a frock begins
to show wear is in the sleeves.
An overblouse dress of taffeta
with an underbodice of shadow lace
is shown in number 8259; it is an
excellent model for afternoon tea and
like affairs and is suited to any of
the soft silks or poplins; MORE, too,
could be used to advantage. This
dress requires to make in size SO, 57s
yards of 36-inch material with yards
of lace or net for the guimpe. Taft
fetas average So to 40 inches in
width; it is priced from s1.25 yard
and up.
An afternoon model developed in
MORE is shown in the other design,
S324-S2S6. The bodice is in peasant
design and also shows an underwaist
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-05-23
Caring for a Canary

Dear Margery Doom:
Please tell me how to care for
little canary, and how to rid the
cage of bird lice, and oblige,
CANARY OWNER.
In the first place be sure that the
cage is perfectly clean. Unscrew
the top and take out the perches
and scald them every day, as 1t is
in these crevices that the little bugs
hide. Go over the cage carefully
with a cloth dampened with kero-
sene and then, of course, air it thor
oughly before returning the, little
fellow to his home. Hang a little
thin cloth bag of powdered sulphur
in the cage in such a position that
the bird will knock against 1t as he
Jumps from perch to perch. At
night cover the cage with light
cloth that. can be burned. Examine
it every morning and see how many
of the bugs have gathered on it.
And now to the bird. Try to have
him battle regularly. Put his tub
in every morning whether he uses
1t or not, as the chances are that
he will cultivate the habit If the
water is at hand at the same time
every day.
Be very careful that the bird is
not in a draft. I you hang him in
the window lower him so that the
air that comes through the cracks
will not strike him. Let him have
all the sun he wants, but don't let
the direct rays of the sun beat on
him in the hot days of summer.
Give him fresh water in the morn
ing and again during the day and
feed him on the plain bird seed. The
fancy varieties are apt to be too
fattening. Give him a little piece
of green or a piece of apple a few
times a week, but don't overfeed in
this direction, as it may not be good
for his health Try to keep the tenn
perature of the room the same day
and night.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-05-23

There is nothing left for us to do
now but wait" said Mark. 1--WE are
in no immediate peril. The ocean is
calm and it is almost certain that the
fog will lift before morning. Then we
shall be seen and picked up, If not by
the Mermaid, at least by some other
of the fleet of smacks that fish in
these waters"
At that moment Tommy heard the
quick chug, chug, chug, of a motor
engine to the southwark.
do you hear that, Mark?" he
asked, excitedly.
Yes, lad. It's the Mermaid search
ing for us If I'm not mistaken. Cap
tain Bill is not the man to leave his
mates in the lurch."
Lets row to herr" cried Tommy.
ROW to a smack under motor
power? Are you crazy, lad?'
laughed his dorymate. mo, our
wisest course is to drift and let her
find us. Now II we only had a fog
horn we might signal her."
Go be continued.l
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-05-23
Dainty Lavender Sachets
for the Linen Closet

The housewife, whether she be a
novice returning from her honeymoon
to the new home or the housekeeper
of many years. will be delighted with
a bag of lavender flowers. Our grand
mothers many, many years ago, dis
covered the potency of the lavender
flowers and scattered them among
the snowy linen. The slight but deli
cate fragrance that was impaired to
the sheets and pillow cases was most
refreshing and pleasing to the weary
sojournsr when he or she sought the
bed. No adequate substitute for the
lavender flowers has ever been found,
and the demand for them is quite as
strong today as IN previous years.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-05-23
A Fitting Part

The apparently total absence of
pride in many children, and the ease
with which they adjust their short
comings to fit the case in hand, fur
nish frequent amusement to persons
of larger growth.
Two little ones VINO had been told
to remain near the house one morn
ing were quite disconnected, and
begged to go across the way with
their playmates.
You are not properly dressed for
visiting today" said the mother,
"and Roberts face is not Clean"
ooh, never mind" exclaimed the
child; lit will be all right. They are
playing house, and can be the hired
girl and Robert can be a tramp that
let in"