Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1914-10-04
THE WOMEN Do
THE WORK WHILE
THE MEN FIGHT
Paris Shops Are Kept Busy in
Spite of European War
Models Are Changed to Suit
American Trade.
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| fsrset.l eosstssososncs 70 soss,sa JoUHsst'
| New York, Oct "a new phase 81
life Is appearing In Paris The men
have gone to war but instead of abnn-
ldOning their businesses they have left
them In charge Of the women. The
great dressmaking establishments arc
many of them handed over to some
trusted woman employc or To some
member Of the family and II Is to he
hoped that they will continue sending
us new ideas until the men return.
and prove the worth of women In
emergencies.
Poret was one Of the first To re-
spond to the call to arms and close
In his wake went Jouda. the head Of
the House Of Bernard. Worth. Bcchoff
and Doucet The CaIlot sisters are
keeping their staff busy no longer en-
Itirely upon new creations but upon
hospital supplies.
As Americans would probably be
the greatest buyers. If not the onlA
ones. during this period of war the
ldrossmakers in paris quickly changed
their models 10 suit the American
trade
The skirts, though wider, are not AS
voluminous us a few years ago. They
are cut circular and III closely about
the hips. flaring AT the ankles. They
are very short. at least five or six
inches from the floor Some OF the
new trnics are cut with a deep point
front and back This is a very be-
coming length of tunie for the wom-
an who IL seeking 10 acccntuatc her
height
The Moyen Age frock Is having a
Of
tumn models hang straight from the
shoulder to the hem without visible
wnistllne. Some have broad flat
belt. and others have sashes which tie
in a pinafore bow at the back
The redingote effect is given many
Of the long wasted frocks. The waist
is of the short-basque variety. with
plain short sleeves tunic. which
does not meet in the front is worn
over black satin skirt. The girdle
lis OF the same material as the dress
and tunc, and meets in the back,
where II is fastened with snappers
placed underneath the cloth-covered
buttons. A pointed collar and pointed
cuffs Of the satin complete the dress.
This is indeed lace season and for
evening dresses and for afternoon
dresses II ~ used extensively. 1t forms
overdresses for frocks OF charmeuse
and satin az times II is only the tunic,
or IL may be but the bodice of a dress.
The margot cdged craqucle net is very
smart and effective The evening
gown illustrated has surpice bodice
of this craqueie net with the margot
edge. and a eraquele net yoke. The
skirt Is Of pink satin with overskirt
OF lace. Around the waist is worn
n wide sash Of silver gauze ribbon
which ties at low waistline in the
back.
The practical evening wrap of black
velvet which "A worn with this cos
tune % called the Norma Wanna cape
after the play written by Maeterlinck.
The collar Is OF Persian lamb and
the cape is lined throughout with
rich Natter blue satin. The lining of
oapes and wraps this year is an inn
portant feature OF the garment Won
derful brocades, figured crepe de
Chine, MORE. satin and taffeta are
all used
For evening capes and wraps there
are exquisite metal brocades from six
teen dollars yard up. which are both
effective and beautiful. These are
trimmed with collars Of ermine. mink.
sable, beaver or kolinsky the latter is
"a northern Russian or Siberian mink.
Among other materials used for these
wraps are Ottoman faillc silk which
comes In rich designs. futurist in their
colorine and outline one stunning
coat made of this silk had an allover
fienre that at distance reminded one
|of Chinese designs and the effect was
heightened hy the shape of the cape
which was not unlike Chinese Lam
tern. II was trimmed with a huge
cape OF kolinsky and band Of the
same fur banded the cape Just above
me hem This cape WAS lined with a
pam green, which matched one Of the
.colors in the design
The separate tailored coat is made
Iol such warm and thick materials MS
velour de laine, cheviot and a new "a
brio called chenille cloth Velvet and
plush are also used
Inc trimming Of street suits of faille
ribbed velour, serge, gabardlne. velve-
Teen corduroy, chiffon, velvet, poplin
lduvetyne kitten ear or broadoloth.
i confined almost entirely to the col
lar, cuffs or waistcoat effects These
may be heavily braided with Hercu-
les braid or trimmed with one of the
superb metal vestings; these are very
expensive but a small amount goes d
great way Chiffon velvet in a Roman
,strlpe Is popular and may be had in
nlue and tan or in tan and brown.
Caraeul velvet and MORE chiffon vel
vet are often used to good advantage.
various Scotch plaid effects are also
used Tor the collar. cuffs, and waist
coat and are very smart Combina-
lions of materials are seen in these
SUITS such ms velvet and fur cloth. vel
yet and faille silk. blue serge and
black satin, and satin and broadcloth.
An ultra touch in the seasons
iroeks whether 1t he the street suit.
me afternoon or the evening dress. is
to have flower, often rose, of a
incoming color tucked into the sash
AZ the waist, or placed coquettishly AT
the neck. Garlands are placed Under