The Washington herald., 1914-05-31

~ trained to cover both
fE 87 forehesd and ears, be-
m ~ hold, that unseen despot
&SXAX0 fashion" demands that
forehead and ears shall
return to viewl No
sooner is the command issued than the
woman who likes dress, always ready
and amused at a change in the modes,
hies to the coiffeur or retreats to the
secrecy of her boudoir to see how the
new fashion will look in her own par
ticular case.
It is curious to note In watching the
changing modes that any fashion that
stays in tco long becomes terribly exas-
gerated. 30 in the recent fashion Of
covering the ears with waved locks the
hair line outgrew los first proportions,
and veritable ear laps that extended
over the, cheeks and made unbecoming
lines on the face were the result Simple,
pretty, natural hairdressing desenerated
into . wighke and uabecoming effect
The new fashion discloses forehead or
ears, often both. This, however, il only
for the ultra fashionable woman or for
those whose beauty doctor has smoothed
out the wrinkles. For others less dar-
ing or beautiful there are several equally
new styles built on the same seneral
lines as the more rerolutionary type of
hairdressing.
If the forehead shows few nervous
Or Drown study" lines q light curled
fringe Of hair Is admissible. New, too,
ere the revived "scroche-coeurs," or, a.
they are called here, beau catchers,"
or, slangily, spit curb." These are
cleverly placed Just where they =. look
prettiest-before the ears, in the centre
or at one side of the forehead. If placed
just right and not accentuated into car
features they will do Just what the
waved locks did at first OYER the carr
model the side lines of the face prettily,
giving al artistic profile. Sometimes
they are left uncurled, when the face il
beautiful enough to stand it.
This "beau-catcher' curl was originally
Spanish fashion, as is perhaps the
whole new coiffure, more or less. Mary
Garden in "Don Quichotte" had her hair
done in this fashion. The hair il brought
up on top of the head, massed rather
toward the back in puffs or twists.
This 'pouf" is held in place by the
Spanish back comb. This gives q very
different contour to the head than that
to which we have become accustomed,
high and narrow. It lends Q certain
elegance and refinement to the features
that make up for its lack of girlishness.
One model of the new hairdressinR
shows a return to the pompadour. This
does not start with q high puffed roll
over the forehead, as did the old fash
ioned one Of decade or more ago. As
the hair is drawn away from the fore
head it is now arranged in q low POM
padour. Some of the meshes may drop
over the forehead a bit. Further back
on top of the head the pompadour sud-
denly becomes higher, meeting grace
fully the puffed or twisted strands of
- high hairdressing and making har-
monious whole.
Lacking the long curls, the fashion
books of the eighties show hairdressine
that is very like this in general contour.
Of course, more and longer hair will be
necessary unless one has plenty. and
there are several clever little contri-
vances over which the hair may be
trained.
Hats have changed their pose for this
new coiffure. They must be worn
further forward on the head If the fore !,
head is bare. Millinery designers have
been trying to push the hat further up
on the head for several seasons. Now it |
is absolutely necessary. Crowns shoot
up taller, and alresdy, not content with q |
conservative height immeasurably tall
trimmings have sprung into vogue. Lack
ing the right to wear the paradise and
sigrette, Americans must resort to