davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

John II. Hanan have left for Poland.
Mr.. and Mrs. Arthur Butler Twombly.
having postponed their departure. arc
not closing "As You Like IT, at Profile,
until Thursday. Mrs Frederic Wendell
Jackson left by motor yesterday for the
Berkshires and New York.
Mr.. and Mrs Stuart D. Preston are
at the Chateau Frontenac. Quebec.
where they went from Profile Saturday.
Mr.. and Mrs. Louis Hamilton enter
tanned at dinner in the European room
at the Mount Washington this evening
in honor Of Mr.. and Mrs. Myron l..
Keith. Mr. and Mrs. W h. Symmes. jr.
let the Profile to-day for the Hotel
Touraine, Boston. Mrs. Charles A.
Mum, who motored here from Man
chester-by -the-Sca, has gone to spend a
few days at Breton Woods before re-
turning to Washington
Mr. and Mrs. o. u. Soayey and Miss
Hunt are guests of Mr.. end Mrs. l.. II.
Cilley. at the Maplewood. Mr. and Mrs.
Walter G.. Oakman and the Misses Oak
man will remain at their Mount Vernon
cottage until the close OF the Profile
season General and Nre. ". y. P. Oar
row. with their guests, Miss Florence
Eckert and A. ". Wolf. Of New York,
have LETT for New York by motor.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
.eWOMANS VARIED INTERESTS@

very long. II is exceedingly narrow;
II short, it is decidedly broad. Invari-
ably II is fat.
niue GabArdine Moyen-AEe Garment.
The most conventional position which
.he unconventional belt dsigns to take
IL thst OF encircling tho figure six
ihehes below the waist Thus placed
u holds in the fare Of the thlrty-six-
men long, straight-cut coat of a marine
DIue gabardinc suit. lending Il much Of
'"e appearance of Moyen-age gar
ment.
ms four-inch broad belt Of fancy
oiack silk braid matches narrower
pra'd outlining the fronts, arm eyes,
SieeVe tors and the neck of the coat.
Its neck shows the square cut of
us nigh fronts as distinctly as though
inc coat were collarless. This is be-
cause the collar protecting the back
ana the sides Of the throat is an enor-
mousiy broad band of the gabardine
attached against the linirg of the gar
ment and so much stiffened that its
doubled over, braid-defned edge and
corners stand away from the inside
portion. Between these two layers of
the collar may be discerncd the braid
outlining the neck.
Dropping Belt Parallels Coat.
II the belt start at the waistline even
mat is no guarantee it will stay there,
as Cabot shows in redingote model
OF black satin. Here the jet bead en-
broldered belt. starting demurely at
the waistline, suddenly curves down
ward and around in harmony with the
dropping outline of the Jackets circu-
lar skirt, As if to soften the bright
ness of the jet beading, skunk bands
outline the coats neck and fronts as
well as the bottom of the velvet skirt.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

Gro Of the same height 1t might be
ILL TO accept the horizontal line oil
the tops Of the doors as that to Whieh
,,o other architectural lines must be
lido to conform. The laws of archl-
tectur. emphasize the importance OF
.orroct horizontal lines, for they are
Tho foundation of successful design
ing The ground, or, in interior deco
ration. the floor, is horizontal, and
line which cannot be changed is really
the foundation for everything which
follows:
In bringing the windows into appar-
ont architectural agreement with the
doors. whose height, as has been SAL
must be accepted, vslances or 'ambre-
gu RS are Of great value. A ;sIl' mar
row and ungsinly window can very
often be brought into harmony with
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

Such woodwork must agree with the
furniture to afford a fitting back
ground for II, and where woodwork
differs greatly from the finish OF the
furniture it should be made 20 CORE
spond. or else tho furniture be made
70 agree with the woodwork. II may
seem to be almost Sacrlege 10 paint
woodwork OF oak or walnut, but there
are cases where il must be done as
the only means Of obtaining harmony
or unity Of decoration. The most
beautiful OF white enamel furniture
would be hopeiessly out OF place in a
room with woodwork Of black walnut,
and nothing can be done but make the
woodwork agree with the furniture.
often the discord is the result of
having too many kinds of furniture in
the sam room.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
miss BOWERS TO WE'D OCT I
Daughter of Mrs. John A. Weekes Will Be Bride of
Henry Dearborn, at Christ Church,
Oyster Bay.

Belts have returned to Southampton.
Long Island, from Murray Bay, Canada.
Bishop and Mrs. James II. Darlington
and Miss Eleanor T. Harrington have
arrived in town from Newport aud nr~
at the Hotel Gotham.
Mr.. and Mrs Pembroke Jones have
returned to the city from Newport and
are at the Plaza.
Mrs. j. Pierpont Morgan has returned
to Highland Falls, n. Y, from Bar
Harbor
Mr.. and Mrs. F. Lothrop Ames will
return to their home in Boston from
Newport. this week
Mr.. and Mrs. George r. d. Schiede-
lin were the guests over the week end
OF Mr.. and Mrs. Henry Graft Trevor at
Southampton, Long Island.
Mrs. George R. Schiefelin and Miss
Dorothy Schiefelin have gone to Hot
Springs, Va, for an indefinite stay.
Mrs. William Lowe Rice and her
daughters. who spent the summer at
Southampton, will return to the Plaza
CT Friday for the winter.
Mr. and Mrs. Harry Nicholas are the
guests Of Mr.. and Mrs. Frederick A.
Snow at Southampton.
/ Mr.. and Mrs. Charles Elliot Warren,
Miss Susanne +. and Miss Margaret r.
Warren will return to the city from
their country place at Cedarhurst, Long
B Island, on November =.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
Simple BIouses
Tailored and Semi-DreSs
Waists Show Youthful
Collars and Cuffs.

A tailored waist Of the emincntly
practical cree dc chine, which opens in
tho front, is trimmed by three rows OF
hemstitching and taste d by three
small bows Of black r. ribbon. The
blouse ha. plain turnover collar and
cuffs. Price, 81 so.
Organize EiiLabethan Ruche.
pale pink crepe de chine waist IS
a high standing collar of white organ
die. pleated in the back, resembling the
Elizabethan ruche. The waist is other
wis, very plain ant is fastened by GRO
cheted buttons in tie centre front; long
sleeves are finished with loLble cuff
of organdie Price of this waist is
$3.50.
Buttons Sole Trimming.
A semi-dress waist of GcJIG tie crepe
WI ick is most attractive and simple has
"A tucked vest trimmeu with tiny COW
cred Buttons t Ia clusters Of nine.
re fiat collar, cuffs and bands Of the
material. which extend to the waistline,
are edged with lace Price, Slb'
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

Architectural Shortcomings Home May Be Sklu Concealed by
of Furniture Drapees Contrasting Line Treatment Bring
Room Into Decorative Harmony.

the other openings by using a deep
pleated or ruf1ed valance across the
top, the lower edge of the valance
coming TO the line defined by the tops
of the doors. II the window be very
narrow az well as very high it may be
made to appear broader by the use OF
straight curtains placed beneath the
valance and coming to the FOOT
pushed back at either side, even
though they extend further to the
right and left than the window itself.
Book Shelves for Unused Doorway.
An unused doorway may sometimes
be made to contribute to the general
harmony by being fitted with shelves
for books and then hung with valance
and straight curtains such as are used
at the windows.
II is an accepted principle Of decora-
tion that the bold use Of horizontal
lines and the emphasizing of horizon
tai dimensions tend to minimize
height ard to make a tall object APP
pear lower.
There arc cases, on the other hand,
where a window is so low that it seems
TO bear no definite relation 10 the
other architectural features Of a room
Here, again, valance may be made TO
remedy the difficulty, for, shirred or
pleated, it may be hung above the win
dow, really covering part Of the wall,
with its lower edge coming TO just
where the glass ends. The effect Of
this treatment il often really wonder
full. and it will sometimes give an APP
pearance of harmony and decorative
unity which hardly anything else could
supply.
Such treatment is particularly use
full for rooms on the upper floors Of
old city residences where the windows
and ceilings are often exceedingly
low. Curtaiuing the windows in the
usual manner merely calls attention
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

thai knee There. we'll toward the front
it fur bordcrcd end is made to overlap
the rIan end Of the strip. Thus ar
ranged, form. baglitc, draped eff
fcc, which droops oddly and looks as
smart as it docs unusual.
Narrow cuffs Of fur finish this red
ngott's sleeves, which arc long, as are
many Of those by ITS designer, Cheruit,
and like practically al of the daytime
creations by Callot.
Erratic Mahogany Silk Belt
A sclf-colorcd Ottoman silk narrow
girde on a mahogany broadcloth suit
starts rs wandering career between
The bust and waist, but under the
fronts of Jacket which seems absurd
IL short when seen among multitude
Of Russian coats. Slanting deliberate
" over the hips and utterly disdaininG
the waistline, this girdlc drops half
way to the knees at back centre. There
IL loops over the other end, which starts
from under the opposite front of the
jacket.
This mahogany jacket shows the re-
cent change in the neekline. allowing
for no fulness across the chest. At
iached to the neck arc the turned-ovcr
fronts Of The collar, rolling high at the
back The model carrying the girdle
Of the errGtlc habit has collar of ma
hcgary velvet edged with mink. This
combination of red Thrown and clear
brown IS exceptionally good and it is
not common. Occasionally it is no
ticed among afternoon gowns in char
meuse. velvet, crepe and net.
Low Crossing Fur Girdle.
AT times the belt-girdie elects to
cross itself over tho back Of the gown.
somewhere between hips and knees. In
ajk or velvet ribbon or in a narrow,
fat strip Of short-haired fur, It starts
at the centre or the sides Of the waist
line. but promptly abandons that posi-
ton TO strike downward, form a half
effect in the region Of
the hlps. and, doubling on its tracks,
knots at front centre, somewhere above
the knees Never is it bow knotted:
and only two rules govern its size. IL
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
arranging the furnishings an,


decorations of a home there are
often certain rooms which seem
to defy all attempts to bring into har-
m ny the walls themselves with the
various objects Of furniture. This is
frequently due to the architectural
shortcomings Of the room itself,
though quite as often it is due TO the
furniture which by chance or from
necessity must be used. The difficulty,
however, is rarely such that it can
not be overcome by the exercise Of a
LILLE taste and ingenuity.
In many instances where the archi-
tectural conditions seem TO be all
wrong il is because the ceiling is too
low or too high for the room, or be-
cause the doors and windows are of
too many different sizes and shapes to
conform to the canons OF good de-
signing. This is particularly true Of
old country houses to which additions
have been made at different times, and
it also applies TO homes, either in the
city or the country, which were built
during the period when little, il any,
attention was Civ to the correct
planning Of the small details.
Draperies May Be Used to Advantage.
The effect Of too high a ceiling can
very often be counteracted by some
simple method of decoration of the
w. is which tends to apparently reduce
the height. This improving of con-
ditions is really one Of the chief func-
tons Of wall coverings, and it will be
discussed when dealing with wall
papers. Windows Of different shapes
and heights can very often be brought
into agreement by a careful arrange
ment of their draperics.
Doorways are more difficult T. APP
parently alter than windows. because
upon doors draperies canno. be so
much used IF the doorways Of room
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
For College Girls
Good Models for School
Wear May Now Be Secured.

TINE girl who wishes to select her
clothes before leaving for col
lege can now find a good variety
OF winter models in both suits
and dresses. The former show coats
in all lengths, and not infrequently are
trimmed by collars and cuffs OF fur.
The skirts are fuller, which TO many
comes as a relief.
LOng-Coated Suit.
One good suit. which has Il long coat,
trimmed with fur collar, is here
sketched. The material is taupe broad
cloth, with a velvet crushed girdle.
Velvet also pipes the cuffs and revers
and covers the buttons which trim the
skirt
The cutaway coat is in seven-eighth
length, with cape or deep hood slung
across the back, while crushed girdle
defines the waistline. The overskirt is
just short enough to reveal the tight
underskirt of tsupe velvet, which
matches that used as trimming. This
model may be had in brown and back
for S78.
The hat sketched with the suit just
described is very smart for autumn
wear. OF midnight blue velvet, it is
trimmed around the base Of the crown
by a bend of blue MORE, piped with
silver, which crosses in the back and
in the centre front, where it is caught
with a small silver flower. Price, $40.
Black and Blue Satin Combined.
Black satin and dark blue satin are
combined in the street dress illus
trsted. The waist is combination OF
white pique and dark blue serge, which
forms a waistcoat, and is fastened by
covered buttons of the serge. The
long sleeves have most attractive deep
cuffs Of white piquc. The serge tunic
is pleated. and has an underskirt TO
match. Price. s3S.
A Chic Hat.
The chic triangle hat shown with
the dress is Of brown velvet, trimmed
only with a fur ornament in the front.
This may be mad in black or blue
velvet for sl4 90.
Of Dark Blue Broadcloth.
A good looking scmi-dress suit Of
dark blue broadcloth has a three
quarter length coat, fastened by
bone button in front, with half-beit
in the back and front, below which arc
pleats. The deep reevers arc of dark
blue velvet, and the neck is trimmed
with a collar Of fitch. The skirt il cut
with yoke effect, and is box-pleated
OH the sides. Price, $40.
With Circular Tunic.
An unusual school dress is frocK
of dark green, with the waist cut in
coat effect and bound with black raid
The front is gathered into pockets on
each side. which are also trimmed by
braid. and finished at the neck by
high roll collar Of piquc, completed by
\ CAV little bow Of Roman striped ma
terial. The circular tunic is bound
with wide braid. and falls over an
underskirt of black satin. Price, 81
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

specially If you are browsing amonr
reelection Of imported models Of the
ailored and the afternoon type.
4 private importer who landed last
week brought il "a model coat Iroek
Which is a splendid example OF how
nueh individuality there is IN the
Dlieing Of belt. or serge in the dark
aus which remains tho predominatng
made Tor tailored costume, its semi
'asd redingOte is encirclod not drawn
a-by straight black corded SIX
lfosd belt
Loosely Girdled RedingOtc.
At the front centre it dips half way
Fer the hips. From there il runs
eruptly upward to the waistl'ne'
ssfoss the back it slants sharply from
hgh at the right side to low on the
az hip, and there connects with the
Aent strand, whose end has been spread
'al to merge evenly with 1t.
The belt marks the termination OF a
'es Of black ball buttons, beginning at
We points Of low rolling brown fox
@psr, joined with a pair Of black SIX
@Asels attached to short cords.
These tsssels arc run through oblopg
''eists, after the fashion followed thi,
'sspmn by more than one designer It
pretty Is we'll Is a novel mode,
y eliminates the necessity Of hid
z tAs collars joining with bow,
'ss or fancy pin.
..lue lower nortinr, ~ this hnltcd rcl-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
SOME ERRATIC GIRDLES
Daring Low in Front, Crossing at the Hips Slanting
Down Sharply at the Back, Belts Do Not Bind
Now but Rather Embellish Garments

ncotc rs interesting. because il looks
like separate skirt, but is actually
joined to II under band Of brown fur.
or circular cut, i; is not particularly
far'nc. for the reason that at the left
side s irawn several inches above
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

Miss Margaret d. Bowers. daughter
OF Mrs. John A. Weekes, will be married
to Henry Dearborn, son of Mr.. and Mrs.
George S. Dearborn, of % East 47th ST.,
on October /, in Christ Church, Oyster
Bay. The brides attendants will be
Miss Estelle and Miss Alice Weekes,
Miss Margaret +. and Miss Louisa S. S.
Trevor and Miss Eleanor Latham. Ar
mold Merrell will be best man and there
will be twelve ushers. The ceremony
will be followed by reception at Tran
quillity, the home of Mr. and Mrs.
Weekes, at Oyster Bay. The engage
ment of the couple was announced in
the spring.
Among those who entertained ut dim
ner last night at the Plaza were Mr..
and Mrs. Colgate Hoyt, who will spend
The remainder of the fall at their coun-
try place, Eastover, Oyster Bay; Mr..
and Mrs Vernon c. Brown, Frederic A.
Juillard and Colonel and Mrs. Herbert
j. Slocum.
Mrs. Gibson Fahnestock returned
from Europe on the ST. Paul and has
joined SIR. Fahnestock at the Hotel
Gotham.
An auction bridge party will be given
to-day at the country home of Mrs.
George r. Dyer, at Roslyn, Long ISL
and, for the benefit of the International
Red Cross.
Mrs. Russell Fl. Hoadley. jr, the
Misses Hoadley and Mrs Frederick II.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

rfTs have acquired habit Of
" wandering away from the track
" laid out for them by nature. No
-, do they GO straight about the
=, the normal waistlinc. Far
\, :. look for them inches below IL.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

sometimes has the same effect, while
the use of very deep frieze or the
use ~ the same paper upon the cell
ing and frieze Of perhaps unusual
depth has the effect of making even
room with r very high ceiling appear
lower because it emphasizes the hori-
zontHI rather than the vertical dimen-
sion.
Walls Can Be Made to Accord with
Furniture.
DIscouraging as the furniture often
-, it can generally be made endurable,
II not always attractive. by the care
full covering of the walls, which are,
after all, the most important part of
the interior, and which establish the
decorative scale to which the furni-
ture must agree. The cost of wall
paper is not great. and with its taste
full use much may be doac toward
making the most Objectionable furni-
ture pleasing
An old-fashioned bedroom suite Of
walnut was the despair of one house
keeper until some one suggested the
use upon the walls Of the room where
it stood, Of paper showing much yell
low and brown and various wood col
ors upon cream ground. Another
equally ugly suite of cherry was made
more attractive by the use of paper
containing much gray and Gobelin
blue.
Naturally the treatment OF the
standing woodwork OF room has
much to do with its success. Such
woodwork may be said to possess a
dual character, for it is part of the
wall and therefore a portion of the
building itself, and yet, being wood,
il bears a very definite relation to the
wooden furniture and must aid in
drawing the furniture and the building
more closely together.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
Vertical Striped Paper Seems to Add
10 Height.

The treatment of tho walls neces-
sarily plays an important part in the
correct arrangement of any room and
is often the means of bringing order
out Of apparently hopeless decorative
chaos. If the ceiling is very low the
walls must be treated in such LAY
that the ceiling appears higher than
~ really Is. In such cases the use Of
paper showing q very pronounced
vertical stripe will be- helpful. If no
friezc be used and the paper extends
n the ceiling A Plain-surfsced paper
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

to their smallncs,. while, Il their size
be concealed by va!ances, hanging per-
haps from he low ceiling to the tops
OF the windows, much more spacious
effect will be the result.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22
WOMAN'S PAGE BINDERS.

As many Of the articles on this page
will be continued from day 10 day. The
Tribune. for the convenience Of those
Who may wish 10 preserve tho pages.
has had made an original and unusual
binder. This binder holds ,i,t, .-ngls
new spaprr pages. and viii h, sold al
cost, thirty cents, postage prepaid.
\,.e ON receipt ~ t.-~'S. sIre.s.s
s.Dred envelope Tie Tribune ~ rur.
u.zr tAs names aHa Sadl,ssss " ths
s,ups from. vi, cn t1o artcits described
vu tlis page bry tsa,p.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

Belts have returned to Southampton.
Long Island, from Murray Bay, Canada.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-22

Mrs. Russell Fl. Hoadley. jr., the
Misses Hoadley and Mrs. Frederick II.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1914-01-22
PLEADS GUILTY TO
KILLING DAUGHTERS CHILD

Wellington Jan. 17.-Mrs. Anna
Wood, accused jointly with her hus-
band, James Wood, in causing the
death of the illegitimate child of the
woman's daughter Mrs. Eva Starr.
pleaded guilty to manslaughter when
the case against her was called in
the district court.
Wood himself, who admitted the
paternity of the child, was found
guilty at the September term OF
court and sentenced to the peniten-
tiary for life. The case against the
infants mother is still pending but
is not thought the county authori-
ties have any intention of bringing
it to trial.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1914-01-22
SUBMARINE TRAP
HOLDS II men
Boat Fails to Rise After Dive Near
Plymouth, England
FATE OF CREW NOW UNKNOWN
Accident Aboard Submarine BeiiVed
Rescue Ships Drag Bay
With Grapplers With e.
out Success E

Plymouth, England, Jan. IT,
Two officers and nine men, compris'
ing the crew of the British suDmar-
inc boat AT still are trapped in
their craft beneath the waters OF
Whitesand bay. ~.
Some accident aboard the boat
while 1t was conducting diving oper-
ations prevented it from rising. the
other boats in the flotilla immediate
~ signalled to Davenport and Ply
mouth and the depot ship Onxy ana
several salvage steamers fastened to
the scene. $3.50 rH'tf "" 'A"N
whether the men are dead or
alive has not been established, but
navy officials here expressed the
opinion that all had persisted. The
exact spot where the little vessel
Sank has not been definitely fixed.
It's sister ships came to the surface
at the end of the maneuvers, but
nothing has been seen of the Al
since it opened it's valves and dived'
Rescue boats were rushed to the
vicinity, threw out graphing irons
and dragged the bay all afternoon
and until darkness set it. Their ef-
forts were fruitless, however, for
never once was there a tug at a
chain to indicate that the iron SIDES
of the plunger had been struck.
The AT was in charge OF Lieut.
Gilbert NJ. Welman, who had as an
aid another officer. A number OF
the seamen aboard were making
their first trip in a submarine. the
cause of the accident is not known
Whether the submarines machinery
became disabled or whether 1t tore
a hole in itself on some sunken OBJ
ject is the merest speculation.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1914-01-22
PREMIER AHEAD IN
SOUTH AFRICAN TROUBLE

Cape Town, Union of South Al
RIGA, Jan. 17.-Dispatche from all
parts of the union report that the
strikers are returning to work and
that victory has been won by the
government in the struggle with the
Federation of Trades.
The iron hand of the premier
Gen. Louis Botha, was still in evil
dence at johannesburg, where 60
members of the Typographical union
we're arrested while meeting. The
charge against them was contraven'
ton of the provisions of martial
law. The men had just passed a
resolution to resume work.
At the Salt River railroad work
shops, just outside Cape Town, all
the men have returned, their lead
ers having declared the strike ended.