Catoctin clarion. [volume] (Mechanicstown, Md.) 1871-1940, 1914-06-11
TWO MODELS Of
SHORT JACKET.
New Garment Without Doubt Is
Here to Stay, and Many Will
Welcome 1t.
GOOD IDEA FOR COSTUME
Ribbons or silk Cords May Be Used in
Place of Wide Sash-Corsets Un-
doubtedy Returning to Their
Proper Degree Of
Favor
~ ARlS.-It Is not easy to get away

from the jacket that looks more
like sacque than a coat. Pos.
sibly no one wants 10 avoid it. but it
Is not for the stout and the thin alike
One must consider the proportions
II one has an idea Of looking ones
best, and not merely following fash
ion
AS all efforts to bring in the long
incroyabIe coat have failed SO far. one
mus, take up the subject OF this ac
cepted short jacket with serious con.
sideration. 1t is evidently the choice
OF the majority, and it is only natural
to suppose that as the summer pro
gresses the short affair will increase
IN fashion; as women have rooted
objection to wearing one inch more
OF material in this summer climate
than is necessary, one is led to be
lieve that we shall see that the lines
OF the figure cut at the waist lin
by this sacquc coat on figures to
whom ii is becoming and to whom it
Is not
There are two models worn so far,
writes correspondent Of the Wash
in9ton star, One is straight and fol.
lows the lines Of the figure without
touching it, and the other has a rip.
plng back from shoulders to hem
This hem is only All inch or two be
low the waist line.
None of these new coats, 1t seems,
Is to be so long as to hide the top
part OF the sash, for, mind you, the
strongest Persian influence we have
had in three months lies today in the
hip sash, which goes lower and lower
each week
Good Effect In Short Coat.
Mark this fact we'll, for in it lies
many OF the best possibilities Of this
short coat. 1t lengthens the line from
the shoulders to the hips and allows
many women to adopt the fashion
who otherwise could not do it. On
the slender figure the effect is admir-.
able, and even on the women whose
hips are perceptible the line is helped
1t is difficult to see the beauty Of
the short waist except In gowns where
the classic idea is consistently main
tanned, and this is not possible for the
street. That is the trouble with all
artistic endeaYor in dress that is not
backed by practical experience
heard a story in Paris Of how Leon
Bakst once designed some wonderful
gowns for two Russians Of high de-
gree to be worn at a fancy dress ball
in court circles in st. Petersburg.
When they We're given to a dress
maker he was in despair as to how
to make them. They looked marvel
ously well on paper, but they could not
be cut nor put together in cloth. They
We're soap bubbles that could only
be imprisoned in paint.
Finally this dressmaker called in
the designer and demanded that he
be shown how to make these creations
Bakst gathered all the filters and cut
ters belonging to this famous house
and this staff worked for days With
out result. When the gowns We're
finally finished they were Impossible
and utterly unlike the colored draw
slams of high degree We're compelled
to throw them aside, although they
had cost $500 apiece. Others had to
be made by the practical dressmaker
Practical knowledge Needed.
All of which goes to show how the
lack of practical knowledge is a de-
cided drawback to great artists. 1t is
possible for this reason that every
attempt in the line has been a fail
ure. And when artists talk about the
beauty Of the high waist line and in
sist upon it as an adjunct to our cos
tunes they forget, or do not consider,
the fact that this kind of waist line
demands consistent silhouette
(Which is the original subject of this
discussion).
1t was one of the ugliest features
of modern dress when allied to a
tight skirt and kimono blouse. Now
that it has disappeared to large OK.
tent, one is grateful. The long waist
line of other days has not appeared,
but each week shows fashion return
ing to some form Of drapery that
gives the impression of long line
from shoulder to hip.
In the past there have been many
ways of making this feature ugly, and
so one hopes that the Orient will con-
tinue to exert it's influence upon the
style. At present it is charming, and
we are probably indebted to a street
model in blue gabardine seen this
week for showing US how 1t can be
executed without loss OF taste or un-
due primitiveness
Again the Long Waist.
Women are beginning to lengthen
the waist line without decreasing the
fullness at the hips. The models that
are being made for summer show the
wide sash drapery as an adjunct to
gathers or plaits. The woman who
has undue flesh below the waist will
not give hearty welcome to this
idea but it is not more seriously in
conveniencing than any of the other
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