New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-06-29
Court Gowns
Blue Reigns in Costumes
Worn at St. James
Presentations.

OF interest 10 the american
gentlewoman. Whether or
not she cherisheS a reasonable ex-
pectation of ever wearing one of
these stately costumes, she likes to
imagine how she would look when
making her courtesy to British roy
atty.
That court is one toward which
she natural? casts longing eyes.
Not because sHe is a snob. Nor yet
because she has the ambitions of the
vulgar climber; but because her ma
tive tongue is spoken at St. James's.
She knows, too-or she should know
that few indeed are the Americans
who stand the remotest chance Of
being presented to Spanish royalty
at Madrid. And fewer still TO the
royalties of the Austria Hungary
court at Vienna.
Queens Color Governs Choice.
Queen Mary's we'll known fond
ness for blue shades has governed
the color choice of presentation cos
tune of many British and Ameri-
can woman. At this seasons June
courts a number of gowns entirely
or partly in blue appeared.
Especially lovely was one in April
sky satin supplemented by silver
cloth-lined white satin train. The
dsbutante who wore it had the rose
leaf complexion and the slender
figure of an English girl, but her
self-possessed manner as she court
esied low before royalty stamped
her as an American.
Most exquisite ar:ong the blue Pa
quin creations at the June courts
was the one worn by Mrs. Harvey
du eros, of Wildcroft. Its train was
in tafFeta of a Natter blue shade,
having that indehnable delicate pink
sheen occasionally noticed on the
finer qualities of azure silk. Quaint
ruchings of the taffeta and steel lace
edged the train, which was trimmed
with rosettes in silk and lace, CEN
tired with steel tasselS. Near its end
was a spray of pink roses tied with
blue. The original and graceful way
in which this pale, pink satin-lined
train was suspended from the shout
ders, under a silver lace Medici col
lar, gave peculiar cachet to this crea-
ton.
Rare Jewels Offset Gown.
New Zealand was charmingly rep
resented at recent court by Mrs.
Mccarthy Reid, of wellington, wear +
ing her rare parure of pink topaz, {
pearls and diamonds. She was {
vivid picture in her beautiful COS
tune Of white, fuchsia-red and silver.
Over its white satin skirt fell triple /
tunic in white net, scallop edged, and {
embroidered in white silk and tiny
milk toned beads. Its train in flu i
chsia and silver broche was effective \
ly edged with taffeta of the red (
shade, and huge silver-tissue- LINED Z
bow OF the same silk was caught S
against the draping near the floor c
end of the train.
The use of silver in the presenta-
ton costume is favorite decorative
scheme. But the metallic materials
in tissue, cloth or lace must be care
fully handled, otherwise their effect
will be garish and impossible. Only
the really great couturierS of the
Paquin class seem to understand
their possibilities. Some of these
leaders among designers make entire
trains in silver-colored fabrics, and,
while these undeniably are expen-
sive, they may be used again on
gowns other than those to be worn
in royal drawing rooms.
Silver Tissue for Bride.
1t is scarcely a fortnight since a
New York girls wedding gown was t
beautihed by the same silver tissue /
train which she had worn when pre-
sented to Queen Mary. it
An exceptional amount OF silver r
was combined with the white gown r
which Miss Elizabeth Asquith, debu- c
tante, wore at her recent presenta-
ton to her sovereigns. On the foot I
Of the skirt in chiffon, plisse soleil b
(sun-pleated), were graduated bands
in silver embroidery. Silver grelots
edged its white tulle tunic, while its
exquisite train in white satin was sill Il
yer rose-brocaded. /.
The debutante's mother, Mrs. AS
quith, looked the typical dignihed
English matron in black and gold
gown by Paquin. Its satin SKIRT
bordered with small jet cabochons
and slightly caught up in front, had !,
long draperies in gold and black
gauze, black maline lace-veiled. Ca '
pucine chiffon lined its graceful train y
OF black velours souple.