The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-05-31
BACK TO NATURE THE LATEST
WE1IM IN THE WORLD OF DRESS|
Waists, Figures, Even the
Hair Must Be Natural
in Order to Be Smart.
An Ideal Morning Cos
tune for an Active
Woman Two Ideal
Summer Gowns
~ CLAUDE CHERYs.

Il world of dress. It Is really ex-
traordinary. this continued. II
unconscious. return to nature. Those
who know how to read between the
lines recognize the change on all sides
For some years past we have been
living In a highly artificial atmosphere.
Women OF fashion deliberately chose to
be artificial In manner as in person.
II vas q period OF eccentric fahs, OF
mahogany hair and mauve compilations.
II some one wished to provide q spe-
clally successful entertainment the first
Idea was to give an extensive order for
blue roses and green carnations, for
fruits that were out OF season and
drinks which had originated in the
slums. The world Of fashion was DOM
mated by the spirit of conventional &C.
centricity.
But now all this IL changed. Nature
has spoken, and with no uncertain voice.
To be smart one must be, almost need
lessly, natural. No woman OF fine taste
would now touch mahogany tinted
postiche with a pair OF tongs.
The other afternoon was discussing
the changing fashions with one Of the
most successful hair dressers in Paris
and he told me that, at the moment,
the call for natural hair was so great
that the prices Of all the rare blond
shades had gone up 100 per cent. He
assured me that the favorlte shade of
the season is a very pale golden brown.
which has not a tinge OF red in II. He
showed me some samples OF this hair
and also some new face powders which
he had prepared to so with II. For II
Is essential that the face powder should
tone with the hair, otherwise an arti-
ficial appearance Is given to the face.
Obviously unnatural hair. such as
transformations in electric blue or pink,
come under another heading. Hair OF
this order is. as rule, only worn at
night and 1t is regarded as a splash OF
effective color, and nothing more. But
for ordinary use the natural tints, and
by natural I chiefly mean those which
cannot be initiated even by the most
skilled hair dresser, are now considered
the only possible. All the lovely ash
and dead gold shades are becoming an
absolute craze with the Parisiennes and
venture to give my readers a useful
tip. DO not, in any circumstances. wear
dark eyebrows with fair hair.
Some years ago 1t was the fashion
to darken the brows when blond or
golden-brown hair was worn, but this
had the effect Of making the face look
artificial. almost theatrical. The fashion
OF the moment in Paris Is to match the
brows to the hair. the eyes being slightly
made up to give them prominence.
have so often spoken of natural
waists and busts in these columns
that I am inclined to apologize, for re-
turning TO the same subject. but It Is
really essential that women should
realize that the evening gowns OF the
present day demand natural forms It
really does not matter II the waist
measures 30 or 80 inches. What does
matter Is that the shoulders and bust
should take classic outline. A charm
Ing and witty Parlsienne, who is "une
belle femme" OF As. said to me the
other day:
Monsieur Cherys. II one must sac
rifce either the waist line or the bust
line. which ought 1t to be?"
Without hesitation I answered, Tho
waist line. Of course"
/ knew just what she meant. II a
straight fronted evening corset is put
on in the ordinary way the bust, when
woman Is stout. will be pushed I'D
and the classic outline Of the neck and
shoulders destroyed. On the other hand,
II the same corset Is permitted to mold
the form without being pulled down in
front and unduly frightened below the
waist. the whole figure will remain in
proportion and the shoulder line, even
In the case of stout woman, will re-
main youthful and attractive.
Some Of the new Poiret models show
that "the great Paul" is on intimate
terms with the tyrant Nature. for ex-
ample. morning skirt which he has
designed for a charming Parisenne who
goes In largely for sport. This gar
ment is made almost exactly like a
mans linen shirt. The material is
crepe de chine OF a heavy quality and
there Is soft turnover collar. These
shirts are not banded in at the waist
They are genuine shirts and can be
bloused over the belt In any way most
convenient to the wearcr. In pale
yellow crepe they look extremely smart