Evening star., 1914-08-23

| mandy coast for summer recreation.
| would have regarded the young women
she would now see in white corduroy
skirts to the line where the shoetops
go in winter, half corSetless and hat
less. Arbiter of fashion that she was.
would she ever have given her consent
TO this aping of strenuous mascuiinlty.
There is one thing admirable about
the clothes they wear: The vivid colors
they use TO harmonic with the sea and
sky. Sweaters tugly word) have arisen
to such height of fashion that the
Americans are buying heavily to use
| them at home in the autumn
There are many silk ribbed ones, that
we know full well in Norwegian blue,
orange and Japanese red. And there
are others which are newer-loose gar
ments of soft cloth that go over the head
like mildly blouses, made Of myrtle
green and all the other colors in frequent
use this summer; they fall loose from
the shoulders and are held in at the hips
with a six-iach band of the fabric run
through deep, narrow slides.
The hem is turned up on itself Mile
l.. of the Opera Comique wears these in
the mornings with her short white fan
mel skirt. met by high white. canvas
boots. She has taken up the wide sailor
hat in every color and fabric. In the
morning it is Of white corduroy with
scarlet bow; in the afternoon white linen
with an orange band: at night. white or
black satin with velvet poinsettia and
a hange of flesh-pink ulle.
Colorful Topcoats.
Next in Importance to these brilliant
sweaters made Of silk, of wool and Of
cloth are admirable topcoats.
1t was at Deauville last August that
Royant and Chanel brought out such
good looking topcoats that all the world
copied them, and it is not improbable
nf ety vie hpr for
tennis will be exploited in the early
autumn openings
There is one kind that is made in
vivid light blue, almost sparkling, that
is laid in wide gathers at the shoulders
held in with a wide sash of the material,
which is knotted at the side or run
through a buckle Of itself.
The bishop sleeves are put into wide
turnover cuffs to match a collar that
rolls about the ears. Large white pearl
coat goes a hat to match, made with a
soft crown and brim of moderate
width that disappears in the back.
None of these new coats flare at the
hem nor do they cling. The garment of
eighteen months ago that wrapped Itself
around the knees and ankles is rarely
seen today, and the fiaring Russian
priests robe that Poiret started never
maze Hlucn HeauNay. L he accepted shape
is straight from shoulder to hem, with a
wide loose belt placed below the waist
line.
Still the Long Waist.
And by the way, that waist line which
some on started on the downward path,
is still going down. Each woman ac-
centuates according to her caprice or her
character. On evening gowns it Is often
exaggerated in such fashion that the
effect is too suggestive of the bazaar
of India and the cafes of Algiers to be
pleasant but on the topcoats and those
loose. broad -shouldered workman's blouses
the women wear the straight line they
accentuate is good.
1t is not easy to obtain this long waist
line except on the outer garment. One
cannot attach il to the ordinary gown
III the wardrobe, because it demands the
kind OF blouse or bodice that reaches
over the normal waist line and has sur
ticient length TO allow itself to be belted
in at least three inches below the usual
place and then descend in a kind Of
pepluIn.
Fine White Gowns.
Among all tie dashing colors and new
materials shown down here two fine
white gowns ithat made their appearance
for tea at the Casino made a decided
contrast AS these We're worn by two ex-
cessively smart Frenchwomen We took
it for granted they were very correct.
We knew they We're pretty.
If the oriental sasles are suggestive of
Algeria, these frocks were suggestive of