The Washington times., 1914-06-08

ratheT than an investment as an
aGornment rather than an adver-
tisement. has come to its own again.
After a period of what might be
called the headlight style of orna-
ment. picturesque bijoutrie is in
vogue. a type which in its best ex-
amples shows flashes Of artistic
genius.
Fastidious people have for some
years felt the influence of this re-
naissance that has taken place i'll
the jewelers. art. a return to the
iGens of the days of Louis XIV. when
q Jewel was valued not merely. ur
primarily, for the size and brilliance
OF the stone, but for the richness Of
the carving, the beauty Of the en-
ameling. the charm of the setting,
i'm short for the artistic skill with
which stones and setting were
blended in one harmonious and
beautiful whole.
This change. which is felt in this
country and in Europe, wherever
work with Jewels is done. Is the -e-
suit of a crusade instituted by
number of artists of real merit. who
chose this form of expression for
their genius. Foremost among
them is NJ. Rene Lalique. of Parts,
a man of tremendous reputation in
his own country and already well
known on this side of the water as
? wood carver sculptor, an archi-
tect of no mean> ability, and
worker of wonders in glass.
Makes Machine Serve Art.
The invention of machinery has
practically killed the real craftsmen
the men who made things beautiful
as we'll as useful for the love of the
making. They ceased 10 be artists
when they had to compete with the
machine. whose myriad fingers made
things lust as good" But Rene
Lalique has solved the problem OF
the craftsman of the future, the
artist who will utilize the services OF
the machine without in the least
affecting the artistic quality of his
productions, In mis- hands 1t has be-
come the tool. wherewith he can
communicate his ideas to q greater
number than was possible Of old.
But he uses this tool with restraint
and Judgment, never degenei afing TO
mere manufacturing. He can be
compared to great etcher. who uses
plate, but limits mis- edition to the
number of prints each plate will
stand. Thus everything from his
hand has a certain distinction and
rarity He has discovered how to
combine and recombine his molds
with great diversity, which variation
Of treatment is further emphasized
by the particular .patinc' or color,
which corresponds somewhat to the
print quality of a fine etching. The
personal touch is ever present and
X should be as easy to pick out
piece by Lalique as print by
Whistler.
Fits Jewel to Costume.
To NJ. Lalique. a Jewel is but the
complement to costume. the fin
ishing touch to an elegant ensemble.
Thus many OF his most exquisite
creations are designed for certain oc-
casions and no less certain gowns.
and. seer out of their setting, lose
much of their charm. There are
many pieces. however. that IN any
setting make a rare appeal to all
discriminating lovers of jewels, and
TO this class belong the numerous
suecimens in the collection of an ex-
elusive local jeweler. who has a
reputation as a connoisseur. This COL
lection is quite unique in this coun-
try. as NJ. Lalique's work Is in such
demand that few pieces ever leave
Paris.
Particularly beautiful is a pendant
full young woman from her husband
on the occasion OF the birth of her
first child. This piece. called The
Offering" shows the figure of a
woman. done in gold. and very deli
cate enamel. standing on large
and beautiful opal and bearing in
her han6s pearl tinged with cri-
rroUs grayish pink. Tie whole is
outlined in brilliants. No descrip-
ton can do II Justice. for the marvel
Gus thing is the way II typifies the
occasion and the spirit IN which 1t
Was offered.
Another notable Jewel is tiny
form OF a conventionalized water
lily. The petals cover the face and
are opened by the pressing OF
spring. This is more. however, than
a cleverly coatrived trinket or
collection OF good. clear stones. 1t
worth as a COOL picture and has as
much Individuality.
Carvings In Crystal.
In addition to the jewels, the
same collector has fine selection
of rock crystal pieces. in which me-
dunn many consider NJ. Lalique has
done his most interesting work.
There are two small carvings
pair of mating doves and a weary
old eagle on view. These are
mounted on pedestals Of rather
Opaque crystal. inkstands it ap;;
pears, and the figures are tinted
slightly. Not more than three
inches high. these little figures
are instinct with life; the doves
can almost be heard to coo, they
look soft as down. while the very
back OF the eagle shows the brood
ing silence, dignity. and strength
that are an eagles salient charac-
teristics