Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-05-28
Best View From Across Gorge.

formed by the detection of the river
through various channels. some of them
subterranean
Best View From Across Gorge.
The best way to see the cascades is
first to drive around to the north side of
the steep chasmlike valley and gain a
viewpoint opposite the main fall Today
the sun was shining brightly and the scene
was indescribably beautiful. On the edge
of the plateau rests the gray .old town.
with its towers and spires. and on the very
lip of the platform is the fairly well pre-
served ruin of once lovely Temple of
the Slbyl. with a circle of Corinthian
columns. From the side of the cliff rushes
the water. the grand cascade in a. solid
stream that falls in graceful curve to
about half the way down and then breaks
on rocks and rushes off in a steeply de-
scending torrent to the bottom of the
gorge The other cascades pour out of
the cliff from the very foundations of the
town. This water is utilized for the pro-
duction of electricity. which is conveyed
to Rome by heavy transmission line
across the Campagna.
Returning to the town, we went to the
Enclosure to the town, we went to the
trance and, paying our lire each for the
privilege of entrance. were promptly an
nexed by "Guida." bearing a designa-
ton as such upon his cap. He took us in
charge. directed our attention to the arti-
ncial channels cut through the cliff and
talking rapidly in alternate Italian and
French in the hope of making US under
stand that We were looking at the most
beautiful spot in all Italy. plotted US down
paths and stone steps to the lower part Of
the cliff. Before descending. however, he
was inspired to suggest that the ladies
would never be able to make the trip
without the aid of donkeys, SO, with our
consent. he shouted an order for two ami
mails to meet US at certain stage Of the
journey.
Seen at close range the grand cas-
cade' is not as beautiful as when viewed
from across the gorge. But from the
platform where the two tunneled streams
meet before plunging over the cliff, the
spray effect is remarkable as one looks
down upon the face of the cataract,
while broad-spreading rainbow adds
wondrous touch to the scene.
Donkeys Formally Presented.
A short distance below, at a convenient
point on the winding path. we met the
donkeys and they were formally presented
by name. "Maccaroni' and "Portogallo, :"
shaggy little beasts fitted with crude side
saddles. into which the ladies' insinuated
themselves, and down We went the don
Keys picking their way daintily and sure
ly- From time to time through openings
in the trees glimpses were had OF the cas-
cades and the town above. At length we
reached point where even the donkeys
could not go and We scrambled down, I'M
aided, to the floor of an oblong depression
INTO which. on one side. stream comes
pouring from natural tunnel in the cliff
and, falling a hundred feet, rushes off
INTO grotto. through the floor of which
IL Naflsnes with roar, to reappear a
couple of hundred feet below.
Back to the donkeys and with their
help to the top of the great hill we went,
quite ready for the excellent luncheon
We ate under the shadow of the Temple
OF the Sibyl. on the very edge of the
chm, beneath which the waters rushed
and pounded. Then away to the Villa
d. Este. on the western edge of Trivoli.
grandly overlooking the Campagna from
dizzy height
In the ancient Roman days the hills
around these cascades were occupied by
the aristocracE. whose villas were the
resort of imperial society In later
times others built the slopes. to enjoy
the unlimited supply of water The Villa
d Este was built in 1.1O-59 by Cardinal
lppolto d'Este. son of Lucrezia Borgia.
II was one of the most attractive coun-
try homes in Italy, and even now, though
the house is in sad disrepair. the gar
dens remain among the most beautiful
features in the land. Its scores Of foun-
tains. it's fish ponds. vistas of cypress
trees. marble starcases, statues. and
above all. Its incompatible view of
distant Rome across the Campagna, with
st. Peters dome the central point, re-
main joy to the visitor. never to be for
gotten. 1t has inspired artists of world
wide fame. 1t has caused the writing of
immortal verse
Gone are the social glories Of Tivoli.
ruined are most of the villas, decrepit
are even the great houses of compare
lively modern times. but the cascades
and the fountains remain to delight in
Vulnerable visitors, who will recall their
day spent at the ancient town in the
Alban mountains as one of the most
delightful in all their experience.
G. A. LYON, Jr.