New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-07
CHURCH WEDDING COSTUMING
Vivid Color Flares Out in Gowns of Recent Bridal Attend
ants and Makes Professional Effective Startling
Guests Into Attention.

With this tailored costume is worn
a brown Milan straw hat, close fitting,
with two high crossed wings rising in
front.
Needlecord Suit.
The second costume shows Direc-
toire influence and has a Paquin COL
lar, very broad. standing away from
the nape of the neck behind. This
costume might be made of deep Per-
sian blue needlecord, which is weave
similar to faille, but with the cord
running lengthwise through the ma
terial instead of across it. The collar
and cuffs should be Of heavy white
linen or white pique. For that matter,
a wide striped Persian blue andwhite
linen would give the costume a de-
cided look of Paquin.
The coat, shorter in front, flares tow
ard the back. The coat proper is cut
of at the waistline behind, with a
cropping belt falling below it and a
fully gathered very long coat tail un-
derneath.
The hat worn is a close French
model of white hemp, faced in black
velvet, with black feather fronds &C.
centuating the rising line behind. The
third hat is of black hemp, simply nm
:shed, with a black cock feather
rosette.
"Unripe Apple" Green TaHeta Gown.
The costume to the left is of "unripe
apple" green taffeta, with white tulle
House, showing in panel in front.
The entire costume is unrelieved by
any contrasting material, having its
only finish in wide crushed Roman
striped belt of corded silk. The skirt
has two gathered overskirts, the deep
er Of which does not reach the knees.
The blouse is a very full model Of
Monk derivation, gathered into a
standing collar and into shallow
turned-back cuffs.
Do not criticize the collar OF this
costume because it fails 10 fit the back
of the neck. If its tossed inland
anywhere look offends you do not
pluck off the dainty accessory. Rather
contemplate its front effect. Your
complacency will speedily be restored.
Paquin is responsible for the Glad
stone" vast and widely turned down
collar, which makes no pretence OF
fitting the neck and, indeed. seems to
dread contact with it. But it is ultra
smart on the dark toned taffeta cos
tune. There must be liberal supply
of these collars in fine white linen. as
they wilt as speedily as do those in
organdie. They should not be worn
more than once between launderings.
The Monk Collar.
The Capuchin collar, while not akin
to the Gladstone, has the same care
less habit of ignoring the nape OF the
neck. Instead. however, OF holding
itself aloof from the neck the Ca
puchin says over the back just as it
does on a monks cassock. But no
churchman ever wore neckwcar as
frivolous as the feminine expression
of the collar hood affair in sheerest
crgandie edged with a narrow box
pleated frill in matching material.
. Difficult to launder is this frill, but
if a prohibitive price is charged fox
doing it up one can economic by hav-
ing a Capuchin to match the taffeta
frock and let transparent white
guimpe come between it ard the
throat
Another expression of the white
collar stands very high at the neck's
back, slightly turns over at the sides
and then vanishes. This sudden dis
appearance in front of a rather promi-
nently large collar is startling. 1t
simply tucks itself away under the
taffeta neck. A conspicuous turnover,
however. has the courtesy to taper
off into little points two and half
inches wide at the back and mere
threadlike Van Dycks across the
shoulders.
Obviously these collars leave quite
an expanse under the chin to be
bridged by band of ribbon which
repeats the shade of the taffeta cos
tune, though it need not do SO. That
is entirely a matter of individual
taste.
The supplementary ribbon Of seal
lop edged collar on the very sharply
pcinted front of a blue silk frock
makes what seems to be the sole pos
sible break between the chin and the
V of the bodice At times the ribbon
goes entirely about the throat, be-
cause. while some collars barely meet
Under the chin, at the back they stand
far away from the neck.
The original Premet collar in heavy
Venetian lace is so wide at the back
IL. :. eDarS the shoulders In front