The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-07-12
n, CLAUDE CIIERYs.


m, DISCUSSING crlnollnes openly. but
those who admire the classic "ligne"
are trying hard to persuade them
solves that there is no hooped danger
ahead.
There is In Paris band of painters
who have fought hard to bring about a
revival Of really artistic fashions. These
ION. several Of them famous portrait
4ain,ers. have gwen original designs to
euential drcssmakers. They have
ken infinite pains to design gowns
n women who have the power to lead
There fashions are concerned. 1t has
ben serious movement and it has met
TN considerable success.
II liz a long time since there has been
Iuch decorative season, where
|kvomen's clothes are concerned. as the
present one. Personally 1 do not re-
member summer in which women
Aked more distractingly lovely-and
slntable. Some Of the fashions have
ven eccentric. hut almost all have been,
,,d are. becoming. II really seemed as
noueh the enthusiastic band of artists
lad triumphcd completely.
But all the time, under the surface,
NO well known Partisan dressmakers
ave been working quietly but very
mIstently. And each of these dress
makers has been imbued with the idea
hat the world OF fashion was ready for
a crinollne revival. They have worked
secretly but with cleverness.
First Of all there was "A revival OF
bounced skirts made of shot taffcta and
Bounced skirts made OF fine lace. Then
droops Of the shoulders, was introduced
then the flop hat with strings which
closely resembles n coal scuttle bon
ret. We have had early Victorian brace
vets which consisted Of black velvet
bands fastened with handsome paste
Ornaments and early Victorian two but
,on gloves worn with very short putfed
sleeves. For fancy dress balls the two
lressmakors have made many dainty
aooped dresses copied from those worn
in the Russian ballots "Carnaval' and
'Rapllons" They have made several
important society women realize the
harm Of short fiounced dresses sup
ported By hoped petticoats.
Finally Tout Paris" found itself en-
hanted recently with "Le Bal DIES
rrinolnes." given by the Duchesse dc
Gramont The gowns worn at this bal
were undoubtedly charming. They re-
called the romantic days Of Murger and
Alfred de Mussct. they called al
visions Of the Empress Eugene At thu
hour II her great triumphs when WIN
erhal,er painted her sitting in fairy
dell surrounded 10y the beauties of heI
court. The gowns were lovely as
fancy dresses, but when one thought
1 them as the heralds of a crnolin'
svival they called up IA shudder.
For every day things have changed
vastly since the days Of Murgcr an,
De Mu.set and Chopin Women o
fashion no longer sit about IN pictur
,sque poses in fairy dells. They ne
onger take the air in rooiny opei
carriage drawn by horses with Ions
names. They dash about in smart au
,omobes They pride themselves OF
being sportswomen. They walk, run
play tennis. ride astride, &c.
Modern women would look absolutely
ridiculous IN a cr.noline. | do not deny
hat there would he notable exceptions
% this rule, but then exceptions eNis
70 prove the rule. Certain elegantei
Who possess unlimited pin money an'
magnificent ChatrauN would no doub
ooA charming IN early Victorian cos
tunes; out for the average woman sucl
revival would spell disaster, and afte
Oh Il IL the average woman who has L
he considered for she is of the ma
lory
have spoken on this subject at SOM
ength because it is serious one. Oh
all sides We hear whispers that the fal
season Will bring surprises in its train
crnol!ne revival will be strongly op
posed by those who like to see womel
perfectly and suitably dressed, but
VIII be put forward by persons VIII
ave considerable influence in the worl
o' fashion. For this reason take a
early opportunity II speaking this wor
o'warn.ng.
me Three gowns which ! hav
M'ched this week were worn by nota
oe Parlsienues at the famous rae
meetings which come at the close q
ne summer season. And apropos o
end' have just been saying, | indi
yd'e one OF them as the thin end of tn
seose' Here you have a hounce
uess Wnlcn strongly suggests hope
e'Ucodl A. matter of fact tn
HueFsk!riS which held the gown |
ave We're guilt ~ Of hoops, but the
'ere made OF stif.cned muslin, whic
ave the desired effect
The first or tho two dresses show
me group Of two figures was wor
he Grand H'eeplcchase by tn
gn'esse de Castcia. II was yer!
.Nhal and charming. though It dl'
nave limited, suggest crinolin
Nss.b.llllrs.
4ne material was embroidered tull
chalk white tint and the QUAR-
sage was made of supple black SAITH
Ivy tu!sdSe was crossed over the bu.
-. 80 'He snort ends We're fastened at III
IaN ol the waist with large damon
.Y"A' The Comtcsse de Casteja Is
%I''aoe figure in Partisan society. !
pa d"s Crinolnes, air ldy mer
SS,ouPu she and her husband, Conn
S'ah1sas de Casteja. looked as thong
Az, had stepped out OF poem b