Evening journal., 1914-01-24

at time when the enthusiasm Tor mar
row skirts was at such height that il was
thought they would surely split into the
trousers worn by Turkish women. But
this man persevcred. and now chic Pa
risian gowns are worn with long gath
cred tunics tilted in the front and far
ing open. showing an accordion pleated
underskirt. Just what this means as to
the future of plcats remains to be seen.
At amy rate. this fashion is great re-
lief from skirts which have been worn
upside down; that is. with frills around
the top, while the bottom is narrow and
untrinned. Let us hope no other style
/ viii come tripping along to nip this one
/ in the bud before il has had time to
/ blossom.
Waists are blousy and diaphanous. In
evening dresses they are cut very low in
the back. and have short sleeves or none
at al. In fact. SO inconsderable are
they that. were il not for the cost of
the material. it might seem that they
were devised with a view TO economy.
Smart little separate jackets are
going TO be worn this spring, in strong
land sometimes vivid colors. The lead
ing points in these coats will be the lin
ling and the buttons. Beautiful brocaded
silks and satins are being used for the
lining, which is of as much if not more
importance than the outside of the csot
4 Young friend of mine wanted one
of these loose and baggy jackets, but
could find no Jacket pattern which ex-
ipressed lust the idea she had in mind,
Until she conceived the brilliant thought
of using the Beau Brummel blouse pat
tern for her Jacket. Her fingers were
nimbie and clever. and she proceeded ia
make il herself. feeling assured that she
could carry out her idea correctly, and
she did. The result is shown IN Fig J.
White broadcloth was the material she
used. The collar and cuffs she made OF
black velvet. and piped the front closing
with the velvet. Heavy silk frogs gave
a semi military ohcct TO the front. The
skirt made especially TO wear with this
Jacket was Of black -and-white checked
velour dc laine It.was extremely plain
except for the pleats ON either side
which gave her the popular boullant sil
houette This young woman spent time
and thought on the construction OF th'
garment. and she was not disapnomte'
IN tho effect for every one who knew
her remarked upon her stunning I'M
p, portcd suit.
The mode fOl -lilkiitE N'i''"o'9 ~
materials and colors is certainly not o.
the wane. On the contrary, II seem
rather to be- increasing. ! saw a beautl
ful afternoon gown the other day mad
4 with skirt of brick-colored duevtyn
II and waist of green satin. ShouidF
straps Of the duvetyne brought the con
r, trasting color onto the waist. and Ion
sash ends Of the green. similar TO pan
n el. and ending with tassels, came dow
r. TO the bottom of the skirt.
y Raglan and body-and-sleeve,'n-on
e stvles are most prominent for blouse
g. They are desirable fashions, especial
e for the home dressmaker, as both al
easy Of construction. There Is praet
caliv no fit to these blouses, and sean
are few and far between.
5. Tho second illustration shows "A strii
II inc little dress for early spring wea
D. which was exhibited IN one OF the vii
q dowz on Fifth avenue. II shows the g
y fectivencss OF plaid OF wide checks Il
= trimming purposes.
The material used to develop tn