davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01
How to Make a Bead Chain.

frame Tie the threads round the knobs at
the end of the frame.
Thread the needle and tie the end of the
thread to the outside warp thread on the
left hand side Ihaving the frame placed
that the knobs are nearest to you'll, then
carry the needle under all the threads to
the right hand side and pass it through
five of the small beads pushing them to the
end of the thread. Press the beads between
each of the warp threads with the fingers of
the left hand, and then put the needle through
them. being very careful to keep the needle
at the top of the warp threads. Carry the
needle again under the warp threads and
continue as before.
AS the chain grows longer the threads
can be relaxed from the knobs and stretched
across the grooves, so that the completed
pattern can be rolled round the reel on the
frame 1t is great Improvement If you
finish off the chains with a large glass bead
and few strings Of fine beads to form
sort of tassel
All sorts of dainty trifies can be made
these frames. and little practice soon makes
one surprisingly dexterous and quick.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01
Fashion Notes from Paris Shops.

The gown that is shirtwaisted in the back
has gone out of fashion.
\; X
The use of chiffon taffeta is becoming more
general; it forms the basis of stunning after
noon and evening frocks.
X i;
Young girls are wearing white velvet hate,
the edges bordered with f1uted ruffie of
moire ribbon.
The new soft taffetas are being shown In
all colors. They have the appearance of soft
satin in the way they drape.
i: !:
The early spring hat is made of taffeta and
trimmed with flowers. plumage, or ornaments
of beads, ribbon, or velvet.
i: \:
Sashes and belts are feature of childrens
dresses. Sashes are quite wide Belts are OF
suede and colored and patent leather
!: 4.
The tango nlghtgown is the newest and re-
sembles chemise and Turkish trousers COM
bined. 1t is said to be comfortable
+ \:
Some of the new boero coats of the street
costumes just reach the waist line at the
back. Broad belts of taffeta or MORE extend
to meet the jackets
The dantiest bonnets for little girls are
made of lace and tulle and the favored trim
ming consists of narrow bands of tailless
ermine fastened with small satin flowers.
\: 4:
Childrens colored wash dresses are of cot
ton crepes. voiles, ratines and plain colored
linens. chambrays, and piques. The long
wasted effect is as much favored as ever
): \:
For cotton waists the most fa yored mate-
rials are plain and fancy crepes, voile, lace.
and net; for silk, there are crepe de chine.
chiffon, taffeta china silk and satin.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01

~HERE are many varieties of bulbs, all
of which will thrive successfully in
doors and under almost Identical treat
ment. The crocus, tulip, narcissi, ana
daffodil make ideal floral decorations
for the home, must the stately hyaclnth
be forgotten In most of the florists and
china shops numberless bowls, in all shapes
and sizes, array themselves in artistic profu-
sion all specially adapted for bulb eultiva-
ton. For indoor decoration the old fash
ioned common flower pot is as extinct as the
dodo, and risen from it's ashes we have bowls
of rare and unique designs and colorings.
which do not offend our artistic sensibilities;
rather they compel our sincerest admiration.
while their extreme daintiness suggests IN
mense artistic possibilities.
Bulbs, to have successful issue. must be
Of the best quality. The cheaper varieties
may be considered by some when the word
economy obtrudes itself before their notice,
but this is false economy. No good results
can be obtained from using inferior bulbs; our
whole efforts are merely waste of time if we
do So If you think you really can't manage
to have the best leave bulb growing to others.
and be content instead with one or two green
ferns, supplemented by few cut flowers for
special occasions.
The florist supply you with specially
prepared fiber in which to grow the bulbs, in
stead of ordinary garden soil. The fiber is
fairly cheap. On examining the prepared
fiber it will be found to contain numerous
small pieces of charcoal. A few of these
should be picked out and placed carefully
at the bottom of the bowl.
The next thing to do is to half fill the bowl
with the fiber. if you are planting large bulbs:
but for the smaller ones the bowl should be
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01
How to GrowBulbs intheH louise.
By LAURA BRANDT.

three-quarters filed. Plant the bulbs firmly.
pressing the fiber we'll down with the fingers.
The bulbs may be planted closely together
and at such a height that their tips protrude
slightly above the fiber, No water will be
necessary for little while, as. If the fiber is
in good condition, sufficient moisture will be
found
When you have finished planting the bowls
must at once be put away in some dark place.
This precauton is absolutely necessary, be-
cause the roots must have opportunity to
develop before the top growth begins. A cool.
dark cupboard or cellar will answer the pur-
pose, or failing this empty wardrobe. But
wherever they are put, be sure that no great
heat is likely to spoil them; a cupboard in the
kitchen would be far too warm. Carefully
examine the bulbs every week until the top
growth appears, and If the surface of the
fiber is becoming dry the bowls should be
immersed in basin of tepid water, and when
taken out all the superduous moisture drained
off
When the top growth Is about an inch or so
in height, the bowls should be taken out of
the dark cupboard and gradually introduced
to the light by placing them small table
well away from the window, and not until the
shoots assume bright healthy green color
should they be brought into the full glare Of
day.
When the time has come for them to be
stood near the window. the bowl should he
carefully turned round every day, otherwise
the strong light will draw the delicate stems
right over, and the shape of the plant will
be ruined.
During the severe weather remove the bowl
from the window. The delicate shoots are
susceptible to frost, and one nights forget
fulness may spoil the fruits of your labor.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01
Worn Garments Still Useful

Even the done for" group may have its
uses When utterly hopeless rip off buttons
for your button bag, cut off bands and trim
mings which can be discarded unless of real
lace which can be used again. and fold the
material into good sized pieces to stock your
bag of old linen or muslin. The less worn
garments, that might perhaps do " once
more, should be neatly patched. without
putting too much work on them. Run up rips
on the machine and even do the patching by
it rather than do fine hand darning as for
newer lingerie. Set aside these garments
for use in travelling or camping. They can
be discarded after one wearing and will keep
down laundry bills.
The next question to settle is: Shall buy
or shall 1 make my new underwear? Re-
member in this decision that lessening the
actual money cost is not always economy
l know it is the fashion for most directors
of a home dressmaking department to say:
=" Make your own underwear-it is so much
cheaper" I would qualify by perhaps"
If you rushed business woman, the
overworked head OF large family of small
children. or a woman not physically strong,
should say unhesitatingly. "buy your
lingerie" Do this buying always at the
time of the white sales, when you get ad-
mirable bargains. Also know your own
needs and do not be carried away by the
tempting. lacey underwear that will ruin
you in laundry bills and has no wearing
powers. The wisest purchase is the So
called French underwear that is charmingly
embroidered. usually on good materials and,
though seemingly expensive. can often be
picked up reasonably. and in any case will
be in far better taste and outwear the cheap,
snowy garment of coarse lace and embroi-
deries. Remember in buying lingerie a re-
fined woman prefers daintiness and quality
to elaborate trimmings and ultra style.
If, however, you have plenty of time and
can do neat sewing, or are skilled in handling
the machine. it does pay to make your under
wear, as you will be at no outlay save the
cost of the materials.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01
Now Is metoReplenishL Lingerie
By JANE BARTON.

the mercy of a cheap washwoman so In for
simplicity and good materials. Allow your
self possibly two dainty sets for visiting, but
have the rest practical and durable-which
does not mean dainty " by any means
If you expect to travel most of next sum-
mer, for instance. or IL you are a travelling
woman, have your underwear of wash cot
ton crepe that needs no ironing and may, in
a pinch, be washed out over night Get the
better qualities of the crepe even though it
cost you 30 or 40 cents a yard. But four
yards of thirtysix inch width will be needed
for nightdress. two and a half yards for A
combination underwaist and petticoat open
drawers, about three and hve-eighths for a
princess slip. and two and half yards for a
pettcoat.
These measurements are but tentative and
are for medium sized figure. Any reliable
pattern gives the actual amount of material
needed This may be reduced by economical
cutting or by getting material enough for
one or two garments and fitting in the sec
tions to best advantage.
Make up your cotton crepe underwear on
simple lines The kmono nightdress needs
least sewing and is becoming more popular
each season. If you are chilly mortal cut
the neck line rounding rather than square
or pointed and provide with draw string
so you can draw it close about the throat ON
cool nights. The sleeves may also be pro
vided with a casing eyelets at the bottom
for drawing into the arm and are much
warmer if they turn the elbow
The trimming of this utility underwear
should be simple. The neck and ends of
sleeve may be trimmed with an inch wide
linen or other heavy lace insertion that
launders well. If the meshes are big enough
TO use for ribbons this insertion may be set
on the edge as is a lace. showing the sheer
finish According to the finish of the lace
the edge of the crepe may be turned into a
narrow hem and the insertion sewed on ton
stitching through the lower edge and taking
care not to span, or 1t can be overcast to the
rolled edge, or may even be sewed in a mar
row seam which is later bound or button
holed.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01

The Chinese numbers are not only more
difficult to master than our own. but also
more difficult to write. In addition to the
greater number of symbols employed the
actual writing of the symbols requires more
strokes than do those employed in the
Arabic notation.
The Chinese children are bright and dill
gent They do not yet seem to have learned
that education is thing quite undesirable
from a child's point of view. There are few
spectacles of the educational world which
are more picturesque and charming than
that of the old fashioned Chinese school.
taught by q serious and dignlfied Chinaman.
veteran of his profession. who possesses
all the stole gravity and solemn Importance
which might characterize statesman on
whom weighed the burdens Of great state.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01

Almost any dress can be brought down to
date by removing the old collar, cutting the
neck in W" and filling it in with airy
folds of tulle. Always there must be the little
decolete front.
A distinct flufflness begins to show in the
lighter costumes, but the size ofsthe solhou-
cite is increased less than one might sup
pose, simply because the ruffies are SO
filmy
The imitation Chinese prayer beads are one
of the delightful trinlSets just now. To be
correct they should be of real amber with a
jade bead at each end and finish of tassels
1t is said that since aigrets are barred
Partisan milliners are turning their atten-
ton to flower and ribbon trimmed hats.
\: Il
At the theater women adorning their
heads with wonderful Egyptian bandeaux,
set with amber or jade and very flexible.
n X
Embroidery with colored dots is one of the
features of novelty underclothes. The colors
are not delicate. but strong.
X n
Clear. fresh. howery colors are said to be
about to follow the brilliant futurist effects
They are sweet pea shades.
4: S
The woman who is we'll dressed wears the
jersey silk jersey woolen top petticoat
They take up small space and do not wrinkle
4: X
There is closely knitted silk sweater
which fits the body snugly andis comfortable
under the coat when walking or skating.
\: \.
Fashion indicates the return of ruffles for
spring and summer.
\; X
Hats with flower trimming and edges of fur
are worn by many smart women.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01

" " because tne merchants realize liltu
is the psychological moment for
lingerie sale The winter ward
robe is finished and 1t is too early to start on
the spring one, as styles are undecided.
Nearly every womans lingerie needs re-
plenishing at least once year. 1t is wiser
to buy few pieces every year than to let
all your underwear go to pieces at once.
This being the case, face the problem of your
undercothes squarely.
The first thing needed is to take account
of stock. Get everything you own out on
your bed and divide into three groups-the
all right" the may wear little longer"
and the " done for " classes. The first class
requires nothing but careful supervision for
a missing button or fresh ribbon and count
Ing to see how many new garments will be
needed to keep up your fixed standard of
numbers. A woman in moderate circum-
of underwear that are in perfect condition,
reserving the half worn garments for con-
stant wear. Stick to this rule and you are
we'll supplied by the purchase making of
just a few pieces each year
Mend the half worn garments and even set
or run the material in a close darning stitch
where q hole seems imminent. Keep this
sort of lingerie in a separate place from your
better grade and as each piece comes from
the laundry put it beneath the pile the
durability of all is prolonged by alternate
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01
Children earn Quickly.

lhose VINO are not accustomed to con-
slider China among the countries
most advanced in educational matters
would be astonished to see how wide
spread is the education of the Chinese
children in all the branches taught In num-
bers the Chinese children are being taught
the Arabic numerals side by side with the
Chinese numerals, and, as our method of
counting is much simpler than their own,
the Chinese boys and girls eagerly adapt
themselves to the new method. The Chinese
teacher usually instructs the youngest chill
dren in numbers by the use of a blackboard
or printed card on which are set forth the
Chinese numerals. the Arabic numerals. and,
in the same row. a group Of the same num-
Der Of objects represented by the numerals.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01
Durable May Be Dainty.

in the choice of lingerie you will make If
you worker. travelling woman. or at
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01

This embroidery design makes charming
decoration for a boudoir cap. The material
may be of white lawn or linen or even of
much sheerer goods The pattern should be
developed in satin. eyelet. and outline
stitches. The detail of drawings show the
method of working
There are two conventional ways of apply
ing the design to the material upon which
it is to be worked. If the material is sheer,
such as lawn. batste, and the like, the
simplest method is to lay the material over
the design and with sharply pointed pencil
draw over each line. If, however, the ma
teral is heavy secure piece of transfer or
impression paper Lay it face down upon
this, then draw over each line of the paper
design with hard pencil or with the point
of steel knitting needle. Upon lifting the
pattern and the transfer paper you will find
a neat and accurate outline of the design
the material.
There are two points which should be OBJ
served in this simple process if it is to be
executed satisfactorily. One is to see that
your material is level, cut and folded by
thread, and that the design is placed upon
it evenly at every point. The second is when
placed accurately secure the design to the
material with thumb tacks with pins so
that it cannot slip during the operation.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-01

IL an amateur jeweler you will have to
invest in the following articles, which
- you can buy quite cheaply:
A small frame, costing about %
cents.
A reel of properly prepared twine.
Some bundles of various sorts of beads.
Armed with these you'll be ready for the
fray.
If you have original ideas for pretty
designs it is well to buy some when you get
the beads.
Now you will be ready to start. Choose
beads of four or five varying colors which
blend nicely, and decide on the length of the
chain you are making before you start. cut
ting the foundation threads about seven
inches longer. Also cut one more thread
than is really necessary
Now knot the threads together at one end
and secure them to the nail on the reel at
the end of the frame, turning the wheel
round once to keep them secure. Arrange
the threads [six are a good number to usel
so that each lies quite straight and in sep
arate groove of herupward supports of the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-03
AMMUNITION SENT,
SAYS BERNSTORFF
German Ambassador Charges
Cartridges Are Being
Shipped to England.
REMINGTON co. Is NAMED
Clothing, Automobiles and
Other Contraband in List,
Diplomat Asserts.
REMINGTON co. Is NAMED

Tho German Ambassador. Count Johann
Won Bernstorff. left New York for Wash
ington yesterday after a stay here OF
almost a week Before taking his d, part
ure from the Ritz-Carlton Hotel he said
he had incontrovertible information that
quantities Of contraband Of war consist.
ing Of ammunition, automobiles a d cloth
ing. were being constantly ST. ped TO
England and that this, In his opinion.
was plain violation Of the neutrality OF
the United States.
'Wiil YOU bring this information to
the attention of the state Department in
Washington? p" the Ambassador was asked.
II don't know" he reptile II was
only commenting o. the matter and have
no desire 10 euter into a controversy with
any one over the situation The messages
received on the subject I know to be
true. II the censors did not see them /
am not to blane'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-03
COMMITTEES AGREE
ON COTTON TRADES
Liverpool Association Accepts
$50 Points Difference as
Equitable.
BASIS FOR LIQUIDATION
Meeting Called for To-day to
Hear Report on Settle
mcnt Plan Details.
BASIS FOR LIQUIDATION

The members ~ the New York Cotton
Exchange will meet on the trading room
floor at 10 o'clock this morning to hear
the report OF committee OF the local
exchange and one Of the Liverpool Cot
,on Association on the open straddle in
tcrcst between the two markets The
report, a. prepared. reads as follows
This meeting has been called 70 con
ider a tentative plan agreed upon by the
committee Of the New York Cotton Et-
change and a committee OF the Liverpo u
Cotton Association. who have held numer-
Gus conferences for the purpose of devils
ing some plan for the reduction of the
open straddlc interest between the two
markets and for the reduction Of the
outstanding commitments both bought
and sold Your cummiN,e has agreed
with the Liverpool committee. that a
difference OF $50 points between January
february Liverpool and December
New York is Just and equitable and
should be accepted by all interests as the
basis of Iiqu!dation
zone of the difficulties on the re-
yersal Of the stradd,e Is the tact that
thu Liverpool merchant who holds ac-
tual cotton Is not directly short IN tho
New York market, but is short TO the
straddler wh1 has bought in the Liver
pool market and sold IN the Sew York
market. /, thus follows that until the
Liverpool merchant 10y his sales tu spin
tract back from the str iddier VINO holds
actual cotton ON the Liverpool the strad-
der cannot furnish a buying power IN the
New York market
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-03
PANAMA TREATY SIGNED.
Control of Ancon and Colon Harbors
vested In L. =.

FANAMA. Sept a treaty giving the
United States control of tho harbors OF
Colon and Ancon besides other valuable
rights was signed to-day b. American
Minister Price and Foreign Minister Of
Panama Lcfevre. The negotiations for
the treaty were stretched over n period
of four years.
The treaty supplants the Davis agree
.ment OF June H. 1904. which tentatively
nXcd the Canal Zone boundaries and Il
amplines the treaty which transferred the
ZOuo.
The United states now gets not only
control over the waters Of Colon and
Ancon harhors hut two small islands
iu Ancuu hdrhor, 10 he used by the
coast artillery for observation and Hight
stations and one to he fortified, and the
site Of Battery Hancock. on the Ion
waterfront is given to the United States
with control Of al the piers at the north
entrance Of the canal, costing approx
mately $4,000 600.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-03
WILSON TO ADDRESS CONGRESS.
VIII Read Message on the War Tax
Measure.

WAsHINGToN, Sept 2.-Presdent VII
son will deliver an address 10 a joint SEES
sion Of Congress tomorrow or Friday
urging the enactment OF "A war revenue
measure. Tonight White House officials
expected that the address would be deliv-
cred tomorrow afternoon but final ar
rangemcnts had not been made with the
House and Senate leaders for assembling
a joint session and IT was said that the
Presidents visit 10 the Capitol might be
postponed.
The executive message is brief II was
prepared by the President during his stay
at Cornish, y. II. 1t Is understood that
he will not indicate tho special tax which
he believes should be levied. but Will
leave the details to the Ways and Means
Committee of the House and the Finance
Committee of the Senate
These committees are In daily confer
cnce with each other and Treasury De-
partment officials, on plans for leyying
the emergency revenues. No agreement
has been reached as yet and the bill
has not yet been written.
President Wilson has been advised by
Majority Leader Underwood and other
Democratic leaders that the war tax bill
can be passed with little delay
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-03
PLANS MORE ELASTIC CURRENCY
Banking Committee 10 Consider
Many Amendments To-day.

WAsHINGToN. Sept . Senator owen,
chairman OF the Committee ON Banking
and Currency. has called "A meeting Of
his committee for Tomorrow to consider
number OF proposed amendments to the
Federal reserve act looking TO more elias
tie currency and in some instances ex-
tending the privileges OF the banks to
issue emergency notes
Chairman owen had n conference to-
night with members Of the Federal Re
serve Board, at which the proposals were
considered, One ~ the amendments pro-
poses to extend the time In which mem
Der banks may purchase their stock and
make their deposits in tn" reserve banks.
Another proposes to recognize bills OF
exchange issued against warehouse re
Ceipts on staple commodities as CONNER
cial paper. within the meaning Of the
Federal reserve act, as a basis for emer-
gency notes. Another would Increase the
limit of emergency notes under the
Aldrich- Vreeland act that may be issued
against commercial paper from 30 per
cent OF value ~ such paper to TO per
cent