The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-04-09
FADS AND
FANCIES OF
FASHION

color. There must be wide hips and
a waist of generous sire and the coat
must b. abort and jaunfy. but further
details wary 90 generoualy that nj
sorts &C individual effects can be
developed.
The ose really severe criticism that
dfessmakers have TO make OF Amer.
ican women u their shyness nc wearing
any costume thu features Of which are
d;stinctiveiy their own. Al nation,
We like 70 zee what others are wearing
tefore we decide upon our own eowns
and it 10 perhaps just that very ten.
dency that causes us Co follow 90
slavishly after the edic& al the Partisan
dressmakers. This season. the bright
roicrs offer 90 many opportunities for
individual touches chat Il 10 more than
ever pity We should cultivate the
weakness In place Of dominating it.
Real distinction must always mean
Individuality. Let no hope thar this
ear Of Innovations and Of many effects
will induce us to study fashions from
Lat point OF view.
Roman stripes are real craze. They
&C utilized in so many ways as almost
Q defy description. The most beau
5'iul girdles are worn upon gowns of
quiet coIors and even the most con-
sentative morning gown of blue serge
sfoWs some novel touch. Purple worn
with blue suit comes to US with the
e;Froval of that Paris which is ever
z resting and, for between seasons,
piue serge costume with hat or
or collar and cuffs of real deep
VIII be the snlartest of all things
general wear. We are learning
some lessons in the matter Of color
combinations and the most wonderful
effects are obtained by using certain
shades of cerise with brown, this purple
with blue and by combining con-
trasts that not so long ago would have
been thought outre and strange.
Useful costumes will be made Of
checked materials, too, and checks are
showing really fascinating. combina-
tons of color SO that for the eariv
spring, there is an interesting outlook
for the plain prosaic costume of every
day use, to say nothing of the more
elaborate ones designed for afternoon
hours and for the dance that zoe,
merrily on throughout the entire
twenty-four.
Prevailing colors include much red
In soft tones that are not aggressive,
all the various shades of yellow, citron.
. banana, tango and new tones of mush-
room, fawn and beige, all showing a
little yellow mixed with il. Dark
green's are predicted. The real tango
and other similar shades Of red will he
largely used as trimming and there Is
quite new white which is known by
the unsavory term of blanc sail or
dirty white" but which is reallv a
tone not unlike oyster. soft and gen.
orally becoming.
Skirts are narrow at the feet but
often there is greater quantity than
has been the case throughout the
winter. for, when taffeta or other silk
Is used, Il is not uncommon to see the
skirt drawn in about the ankles and
finished with such trimmings as ruches
or friiis. Apparently there is an effort
on the part OF the designers to satisfy
the manufacturers by the introduction
OF a greater quantity of fabrics and.
at the same time, to keep the narrow
skirts. Happily, the breadth over the
hips provides for a certain freedom
and 1t 10 easier TO walk and to>iance
than with the, straight skirt. The
walking might have been dispensed
with, for women generally have
learned the mincinS japanese step.
but dancing Is the feature of the
season and costumes must allow Of
dancing in whatever they fail. Since
we may dance In street costumes a.
we'll ~ any others il occasion requires,
tht fact may be responsible for the
Introduction Of the little gay effects
in the way Of such bits Of brightness
as referred Co above.
A tailored costume that makes a
good example Of the way in which
Roman stripes are used comes from
the house Of Premet. and Preniet has
gained great deal Of proninence this
season. The material 10 gahardine in
the wcrderful shade Of blue known a.
'mid-niRht" and the short. iaunty
little jacket 10 held by oblons green
buttons and the collar and insees on
the sieeves are of green taffeta. The
tunic 10 q curious one but It's trim
ming portion and the under skirt are
of,Roman striped cloth, for the stripes
are to be found in wool - well as in
elk. and. as this costume indicates.
they are used for entire skirts as well
a. for the mere trimming portions.
Besides the Roman stripes, there are
wonderful striped silks that combine
such colors as orange and cerise with