davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14

BY MAYN MANIC

IT'D all appearances, velvet and
fur will be the favorite ma
terials for fall and winter cos
tunes. One or the other and some
times both are seen on almost every
fashionable costume and velvet is
frequently used for the entire garment.
The designs illustrated here all give
evidence OF the favor of these ma
terials and also of the real beauty Of
the style.
The first figure of the group shows
new polonaise gown that combines a
checked wool material with chiffon
velvet. The black and, white wool
material makes the naiA portion of
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14
Tunes CONTINUE TO PLEASE,
VELVET GOWNS OR VELVET USED AS A TRIMMING
IS HANDSOME
10 prettier costume could be
VI found for The afternoon dance

n 70 prettier costume could be
N found for the afternoon dance
and occasions OF a similar
sort than this first one. 1t is made
. of simple lace founcing over a thin
silk, which is given an exceedingly
smart touch by the Oriental sash that
is swathed about the figure. Since
the lace makes its own finish, there is
no trimming required, and the making
becomes simple matter requiring
only short space of time. The hounces
are simply straight pieces gathered and
arranged over the foundation, and the
blouse consists of two straight lengths
with plain net for the long sleeves that
joined to them. The sash can be any
thing one chooses-wide ribbon, piece
silk or piece satin-and should be util-
lied to give the fashionable note of
bright color. Incidentally the little
bunch of roses close against the neck
at the left side is interesting, for it
makes one Of the very latest details
of fashionable dress.
TrLOWERED silks will be much
used this autumn and they are
always charming in combination
with plain, but one could make the
second gown from any two seasonable
materials with equally good results.
There will be great number Of stripes
worn and stripes would be pretty with
plain material or the entire gown could
be made Of stripes with part straight
and part bias or part cross. There will
be great deal Of velvet used in COM
bination with silk and with wool ma
terial. A smart effect could be OBJ
tanned by facing the lower part Of the
skirt with velvet and using silk or a
pretty wool material for the yoke as
we'll as for the tunic and blouse.
n 70 material is more suitable for
IN handsome gowns than velvet
and the new velvet is so soft
and supple that it is admirably adapted
to the use. The contrast with the
dainty net bodice shown here on the
third figure is exceedingly beautiful
and the color can, of course, be varied
to suit each need, but in the picture the
velvet is black, the net is white, and the
buttons are cut jet, while the trimming
is a little rosebud banding, giving a
most effective note of the color. The
bodice is a simple one in kimono style,
the skirt plain one in two pieces, and
the full tunic is joined to the deep
BASQUE which is arranged over lining
that holds the fullness perfectly in
place. Instead Of velvet, charmeuse
or liberty satin could be used with good
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14
By MAY MANTOlN

the polonaise and tie black velvet
the sleeves, the sash and the plain
skirt. The combination OF black and
white is another feature of prevailing
fashions.
The second costume is made Of
ribbed velvet of the corduroy order
IN beautiful shade of blue with trim
ming Of black fur. The coat with its
blouse and long circular tunic is
especially becoming to young girls
and tc small women and, in addition
to its beauty, is exceedingly practical.
for it is easy to make and comfortable
as we'll
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14

great many Of these gowns are espec-
tally designed for street costumes of
the early season. Later zibeline is
promised great vogue. There are
wonderful wool pushes that will be
worn. Whether or not shortage in
fine materials will be felt later in the
season, at the moment there is
generous and beautiful display Char
mouse satin is being extensively used
in combination with broadcloth and
with gabardine as well az velvet and,
since the contrast is always a g. ID one,
the results are beautiful.
An exclusive tailor already is show.
ing street gowns for the first cool days.
A most attractive model is made with
close fitting skirt of black charmcuse
satin with long circular tunic of mid
night blue broadcloth while the broad
cloth gives a cape effect at the back
and somewhat suggests>a boicro at the
front The loose capclike back and
the drapcd fronts that hint of the
little jacket are of the broadcloth
while the sleeves and vcstlike portion
are of the charneuse satin and the
edges Of the cloth are bound with silk
braid. There is a chemisette with
Earing collar of sheer white organdie.
Contrasting sleeves make something
of an important feature. They are
very generally used. For suits they
are made Of the heavier materials as a
matter Of course. For indoor gowns,
they are made of thin, transparent
fabrics ard uniined.
The accepted silhouette appears to
be narrow about the ankles with gen.
crous flare in the tunic and in the coat
when one is worn. Not infrequently,
the double tunic appears. A handsome
model that comes direct from Paris is
made Of a soft zibeline plush that is
wonderfully pliable and beautiful and
shows close skirt with round, faring
tunic and over it long redingote-like
coat that is finished in cutaway style.
There is vide girdle OF black char
meuse satin that is very deep at the
back but drawn up a little at the
front where it terminates in big
fat bow and the rolling collar and
cuffs of the coat are finished with
narrow bands Of skunk fur.
Undoubtedly, fur will be extensi, ely
used in trimming and black furs are
given great prominence. Monkey is
much exploited and much talked but
is hardly pretty and it is TO be hoped
that the softer sorts will have the
more general vogue.
Ill tn II! "a or
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS

1896 Polonaise, "a to a bust.
So86 Two-Piece Skirt, "a to "A waist.
1897 Coat with Circular Skirt for
Misses and Small Women,
10 and IS years
1921 Two or Three-Piece Skirt for
Misses and Small Women,
II, 10 and IS years.
1929 Dress with Suspender Effect for
Misses and Small Women,
10 and IS years.
$500 Girls Coat, 4 to years.
84o3 Coat with Circular Tunic.
"a to "A bust.
5000 Two-Piece Skirt, ~ to e waist.
S43o Gathered Cape with Large Collar,
One Size, "a to 81 waist.
S4I2 Two-Piece Skirt with Long Tunic,
FL to 40 waist.
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14

THERE has been a somewhat
unusual stir in the world of
dress this season owing to the
strange conditions brought. about by
the war and the uncertainty as to
what could and could not be done
At this writing, however, there seems
d quiet conviction that all is well in
sartorial matters at least and that
whoever may triumph and whoever
nlay lose across the sea, American
women will have all that they reed
and beautiful designs will be furnished
for all occasions.
The declaration of war coming as it
did early in August found great many
New York buyers already in Paris
awaiting the great openings. Some
of them came home on the first avail
able steamers, feeling there would he
no models to buy, but those who re-
manned, either from choice or neccs-
sity, have reaped a reward and today
New York has a sufficient number OF
models stored away 10 make the sea-
son interesting even though no more
should arrive.
One Of our leading importers pub
lished the account OF his buyers efforts
in full and it is interesting TO note that
even under tie stress of this terrible
calamity, Paris reused herself to send
forth her designs and to do her best
b. such clients as were there to be
SUPP led. The reading is not unlike
rom nee and replete with interest.
There were difficulties to be over
come and even dangers to be encoun-
tered. Ton have triumphed and to
bring forth ',thc needed garments at
the announced date is surely an achieve
ment.
A Fifth Avenue> importer resorted
to the device of engaging the services
Of every possible friend and acquaint-
ance and packing costuIhgs in sue
oession Of suit cases in order that they
might be taken aboard the steamer
as the hand luggage that was the only
sort received
Another in 4 race from Paris to
Havre was held up number jof times
and encountered all sorts Of adventures
but, nevertheless, is here and has her
display in readiness. Q
At the moment, not great many of
these costumes have been seen but
sufficient is known to give e,ider@ce of
t.e tread We will wear a great deal
oi A-''sdr'oth and troadcloth is always
beautiful material 1t Is Icing made
Up mo gowns as well as suits and i
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14
USED EXTENSIVELY

The little girls coat is a rich blue
velvet with trimming Of unspotted
ernine. The model is an unusually
pretty one beneath the caps. There
is a plain body portion to which the
sleeves are scwed. The skirt is circular
and is joined to the body portion with
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14

The last figure Of the group shows
an unusually handsome cape of velvet
lined with Roman stripes over a tunic
skirt that combines the same Roman
striped material with a plain cloth
tunic. The cape is full and finished
with large turned over collar that
gives something Of yoke effect. The
fronts are short but the back is long
and finished straight across its lower
edge. The skirt consists of a plain
two-piece foundation with prettily
shaped tunic over it and the front
edges OF this tunic are Tapped in a most
-, ,,t.-.lc..;,,s wa.
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14
FADS AND
FANCIES OF
FASHION

'OR all indoor occasions what
might be called the deep bas-
que girdle is pronounced
favorite. 1t extends well up under
the arms and well down over the
hips and it is worn over little
blouse or guimpe while, at the lower
edge IS apt to be found a STRAIGHT
gathered tunic over a plain close-fttine
skirt. An exceedingly smart costume
that exempli6es its use and also the
favor for black and white that is so
conspicuous in advance designs is
made with basque girdle of black
charmeuse and tunic of Brussels net
over white satin, the tunic being fin
lshed with an upturned hem, at the
upper edge of which is an edge of
monkey fur that falls about in an
irregular, not altogether attractive
way. The bodice above the eirdle is
Of soft white lace.
A charming dancing frock designed
for a young girl is of lowered taffeta
with the upper portion of the bodice
OF white net with picot edges. The
skirt is plain and narrow and the deem
basque girdle consists of a width of
the silk shirred at the center front
over a stay and again at the back
to form two outstanding frills. Over
all the shirrings is arranged tiny rhine
stone banding and the effect of the
frills at the back is that of huge but
terfly. Below the girdle, there is a full d,
gathered tunic finished only with
picot edge and the costume is alto
gether a most attractive one in an
essentially youthful style.
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS

s2es Surplicc Blouse, 81 to a. bust.
S4oI lunic Skirt. II to % waist.
$500 Gown with Long Circular Tunic.
81 to "a bust.
S53T Fancy Blouse, 81 to 40 bust.
1878 Gathered Tunic with Basque
Girdle, "a to 80 waist.
SoS6 Two-Piccc Skirt, 81 to Al waist.
1898 Basque Waist with Surplicc
fronts, "a to ~ bust.
$500 Skirt for Accordion Plating,
One Size.
1871 Gathered Blouse, 81 to "A bust
s5sI-A Plated Tunic, "a to q waist.
$3.50 Two-Piece Skirt, "a to 81 waist
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14

The afternoon gown at
the center of the picture
combines lace and velvet
in a most charming way.
The lace IS white and the
velvet a rich coral aad
materials ard colors unite
to give a most attractive
result, dainty and youth
full and exceedingly fash
ionablc.
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14
TIE BASQUE Is MUCH MODIFIED
!, AN ATTRACTIVE ONE is MADE TO FORM A SASH
IN THE BACK

effect or one could think Of L -
tune in all white with the bo,,icc d RI
the tunic Of lace houncing and the
deep girdle and the undcr-skirt of char
mouse satin. There are a great many
possibilities in this design. for it can
be treated in so many different ways
that it can be utilized for two cos
tunes which give such entirely diff
ferent results as to suggest no hint
one Of the other. The skirt and tunic
are just as well adapted to daytime
as to evening wear. and only the bodice
requires to be changed to produce a
completely transforming effect.
Arizona republican., 1914-11-14

a plain seam.
The cape can
be omitted if
liked but,
for the very
cold weather,
it will be
found a wei
conc add
ton.
The next cos
tune is made
Of dark green
gabardinc
with sleeves
and vest of
green velvet.
The eombin-
atiO, of mo-
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-05-19

may expect-if the chauVinists, the
jingoes, the plantation owners, the
mine owners, the shareholders and
the Men BraVe-With-a-T Typewriter
have their way and succeed in baIk-
ing the desires of our president for
peace.
AGREES WITH DICKINSON
Dear Day Book: Dr. Frances Dick
insOn's imperative questions call for
reply. At the outset, allow me to state
my belief that we agree, on salient
points, much more nearly than the
doctor seems to imagine, and to as
sure her that my protest was, like
hers, directed against men and
against man-made laws.
According to Washington statistics,
the average wage of the American
workingman is $500 a year or about
$3.50 a week. Can a man marry
and decently support family on such
a pittance? But the call of nature is
imperative. Increase the wages, and
men will support their children be-
, cause they are able to do so. When
Ford of Detroit started paying all his
men adequate wages, large numbers
of them Immediately married. There
fore, l claim that low wages form the
first reason why men abandon their
children.
The second reason is the influence
Of a barbarOus theology which !
teaches men also (not only women)
that mating is sinful" when not Ii
censed and tagged by church and
state. A weak man-and most of us
are weak-wiH shrink from acknowl- |
edging the evidence of his sin" Thed
average young man is taught the hoIZ1
rible Social creed that when Wo-
man seels her love for a marriage ring |
she is respectable, and that when she |
gives him the highest gift she has to |
bestow, she is degraded and fallen"
Believing this, is it surprising that he
4 or-,ico- 41,o+ Tubioh ho rTTog k,,,r-LA
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-05-19
NEITHER BECKER NOR WIFE
WILL TAKE STAND

New York, May 19.-That neither
Charles Becker nor his wife will take
the stand to deny that Becker forced
the murder of Gambler RosenthaI
was the declaration of Becker's chief
counsel, Martin T. Manton, today.
Manton said this was final" but
that was doubted. The defense has
changed its tactics often. One
change came today, when, after his
positive declaration a few days ago
that he would make no opening adj
dress, Manton switched and began
just such a statement.
Among thirty witnesses whom it
was announced will be called by the
defense will be Warden Clancy and
Father Cashin of Sing Sing prison,
District Attorney Jerome,
members of Becker's strong-arm
squad, several reporters and Sheriff
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-05-19

dom as deep as maternal love. Men
are responsible for the cruelty Of the
Social creed" and the hypocrisy of
our politician lawmakers surely de-
serves open contempt. Men would
soon learn to value children more
tina Improperly if women would COM
bine to make fatherhood, not, as now,
the easiest, but on the contrary, the
most difficult thing to attain.
To my mind, such combined action
would furnish women a far more
effective weapon than the vote. We
have too many laws already. But if
mothers would combine to cease
,canting. of ruined girls and would
teach their sons that ALL fatherhood
is sacred-yes, even if the motehr be
ruined" or fallen, - I believe that we
would have very few, if any, aban-
doned children. If mothers would
teach their sons that mating is a high
and glorious act-no "siIi' II believe
that even the horrors of prostitution
would soon cease.
Finally, as to Mrs. Pankhurst' and
the suffragists, they have no more
ardent champion than
Rudolf Bismarck Won Liebich.
10000
Scranton Wochenblatt. [volume] (Scranton, Pa.) 1865-1918, 1914-04-09
gfns RbeinbeiIen.

@s S,lori9ie Osrf beim 9rubbabs
{6lofe. Dp9 bel Dem aale Weann in
benz fremme 9ett sibts nit gleib.
St rappeIt ri, er rappelt ber = sr
fdnn nit inT6lofe. Gs iperb EN- gang
bang, I'm sr fdnst an au bobbsIs.
lin Die 3tpd bun ben Dii4tori9:
.9rubbabsE
s@as pilIIdt De oann, met
2nG6t9"
,S6lsfit De fdun9"
rgla, LOB mid sib!'
9llfo nit EN- 8abbsIe is es da'
peil mir. Rad erer baItpe StunS
timmt EN- G9orfhie sin meier @s'
oante:
,@ruBbdbe = @ruBbubddd!"
rDas boite oann f9un ipioosrg"
rWlei Wlaul itsbt uff."
.Ma9's gu unb LOB mid f9lofe!"
9lGletpeil piober mir. Giper balb
Stuno oruff iimmt EN- en- funteInas
ssIneier @ebunte:
,9rubbdbGGd! --- 9rubbas
bGGdddG!"
rgi, pas bofts bunn I4un pib'
6sr2" .
.9ltpeil BUN id's RuuI aus.'
mo6t." %
Scranton Wochenblatt. [volume] (Scranton, Pa.) 1865-1918, 1914-04-09

G. ii 9teruns. = Ri9s
ter: .Sie tpolIen iih in gang unsu'
re9nunssfdbisem 3uitanbe befunben
taben,. ols Sic nit Steinen na9 ben
Strabsnlaternen parfen . tparum
nabmen sic benn aber fpfOrt ReiB'
aus, aIs Sic bes S9uBmannes ans
ii6tig tpurben9"
9fnsetlaster: ~9a batte i9 seraoe
cine setroffen!"
Scranton Wochenblatt. [volume] (Scranton, Pa.) 1865-1918, 1914-04-09

W2utter: 8snn bu fertis biit,
perbe i9 au9 sinise 3silen an beis
nen 8rGutigum f9reiben :
Sp9ter: Su's lteber niht, IRA
mo. pielIeidt Deritebt er mas bon Der
9rapbolosie.
Scranton Wochenblatt. [volume] (Scranton, Pa.) 1865-1918, 1914-04-09

Sobe Yrsife. = @at:
pOos nennen Sic ne Speiietarte,
3eIlnsr2 WiIIen sic, mas bos III -.
ne MarnunsstafsI!"
Scranton Wochenblatt. [volume] (Scranton, Pa.) 1865-1918, 1914-04-09

9osbaft. = Ra9bar gum
S6reibsr): rSis, Serr Setretdr, felt
o9t llbr bieien Morgen iebe i9 Sbz
ren @oritanb ununterbroden i'm Sens
iter lisseu - madt Der benn eisentz
li6 sor feline sSriibiiiidspouie2"
Scranton Wochenblatt. [volume] (Scranton, Pa.) 1865-1918, 1914-04-09

Rerb0s, aber bergniigt, fonb pe,
ter Ramm ii9 nn9 sipsi Soeen Bel
bem @ebsimsn aommersienrot elm.
@r ipurbe biesmal fofort porseIaNsn.
sd beoduers isbr," iaste Der Sc
beimrat, raber bic Stsne lit beute
pormittas befebt iporben. = Mein
Reffe bat iie betrmmen."
glls Der 9ebeime &ommersienrat
aber bic R6te Der GnttGui9ung fab,
bic iid auf peter Ramms @eii9t
ausbreitete, fogts er = unb ss Tam
ftipos Menfdli9= Ssilnebmenbes in
feline Stimme:
nSunser 6reunb! Webr Slid fir
elm anbermoll 0srlieren Sic ben
Wut ni9t! 9lber mein Neffe itonb
mir ndbsr. Sd tonnts, ipeiB Soft,
nidbt nnbers bonbsIn. 9tbsr tommen
sic Elm nnbermol fpieber! Ser aams
merberr bat sic mir 70 lporm emp.
foblen. Sic iinb ouf 6sm redtsn
Weee!"
limb frsunbIi9 briitte er bem
niebersebeusten g3eter Ramm bic
Snnb.
Scranton Wochenblatt. [volume] (Scranton, Pa.) 1865-1918, 1914-04-09

2eutnant: 3uffse boIsn. Wiil'
Ter!
8urfde: 8sfebI; pollen Serr
2eutnant mir @tIo nitseben, Does
ion i'd uniere @erIobungsan3eig.
oprSeisen9
Norwich bulletin., 1914-01-30
"Eat7 Why, That's My Middle Name Now. But Always Take Stuart's Dyspepsia Tablet After Meals
 To Play Safe.n

The only way to correct faulty stomach troubles and digestive mis- takes is Co do what nature wants. All that nature needs is a little assistance to do this work This is why doctors tell you tO diet By not eating nature Is compelled to aid herself. You do not then overwork her when she IS already exhausted.
 stuart's Dyspepsia Tablets go into your stomach just like food. They help to digest this food. Then they enrich the blood, and thus when the next meal is eaten the system is better prepared to do it's work with out assistance or at least less harm fully.
 By following this natural habit you will in short time correct stomach trouble, do away with indigestion and remove all danger of fatal digestion troubles.
 Stuart's Dyspepsia Tablets are the best tablets made. They are composed of the very best natural ingredients, one grain of one element will digest 5000 grains of meats, fish. vegetables, grain. soup. etc.
 Always take a Stuart's Dyspepsia Tablet after meals or just before bed time. By doing this you will be act ing wisely and playing safe.
 Go to your druggist anywhere and buy a box now. Price 50 cents.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-01-30
HORSE THIEVES OPERATED
 IN TOWN OF LYME.
Trail is Lost When They Cross Con-
 nectieut River.

Mike Topish of Stewards Corners, near Grassy Hill, in Lyme. had a val uable horse stolen from his barn Tuesday night, and the same night a carriage was stolen from the barn of James Smiley of Rogers lake, a short distance west of Topish's place. Wed nesday Deputy Sheriff J. H. Tubbs pursued the thieves, but lost track of them after they passed the Connecti- cut river bridge.
 The animal was missed Wednesday morning when Topish went to the barn to feed it. The horse, a four year old colt, had evidently been led out of the box stall in the barn in the middle of the night.
 The thieves probably led the horse down the road to Smiley's place, where it was hitched to the phaeton stand ing in shed in the yard. Here, too, they attracted no attention. Where they procured the harness is unknown.
 Wednesday morning Deputy Sheriff Tubbs was notified of the thefts and together with MT Topish he started in pursuit The officer traced the animal as far as the Connecticut river bridge. where he ascertained that a horse and vehicle of the description given had driven over the bridge about 1.20 We'd nesday morning.
 They were in possession of two men. One of the men, about 35 years of age, five feet six inches in height with short black moustache and derby hat, had stopped and paid the toll while the trace of the animal and men.
 The horse was a dark bay, weighed 800 pounds, had a white spot on the forehead, had a white left hind foot and a small bunch on the left hip. The animal Is valued at $2eo.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-01-30
FIRST VISIT HERE OF
 WoMEN'S COLLEGE PRESIDENT
President Sykes to Be Speaker Before
 Norwich College Club.

There is widespread interest in the public lecture to be given Monday eve ming, Feb. at Slater hall by Presi- dent Frederick H. Sykes, of the Con- necticut College for Women. Presi- dent Sykes comes to Norwich under the auspices of the local college club of which Miss Louise c. Howe is pres ident He will be introduced by Pres ident Henry A. Tirrell of the Free Academy and will explain in a general way the scope and facilities of the new institution at New London of which he is head.
 He will have much of interest to tell about the college buildings already under way, the first college building (science haID to cost $110,000; refec- tory (and lecture halD, $S0.000; dor mitories-three units, each for forty students, Plant, Blackstone and Allyn, $150, 900. Two of the dormitories. Plant and Blackstone, are the gifts of the Hon. Morton F. Plant
 As this is President Sykes first visit to Norwich, there will be special in terest in hearing his address.
 Assisting the president of the Col lege club, Miss Howe, in arrangements for the lecture are the members of the executive committee, Mrs. William H Oat Miss Elizabeth B. Huntington and Miss Helen Newton.