The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-04-05

pattern will answer for half dozen different little school frocks
 When making up the heavy materials, es- pecially those that fray easily bind the seams with the folded cotton binding that can be bought by the piece or yard. or wide cotton tape can be used Instead of turning in the hem, which makes for bulk, cover the raw edges with the tape or binding and adjust to the outside either by machine stitching or by hand hemming. Where the child grows rap idly it is wiser to hem by hand and always do it in sheer materials.
 For one of the morning frocks choose simple one piece pattern with the straight kimono sleeves ending just below the elbow and the skirt falling from the shoulder in scant straight lines. Open up the middle of the back and finish with an inch wide bias strip as one finishes placket of skirt Fasten with bone or crochet buttons. For the latter large buttonholes are necessary In material that ravels these should be bound with linen or cotton binding
 There is but one seam, that under the arm and in the one piece sleeve. For the sheer CT materials make a neat French seam, bind ing the ratines, eponge, and heavy linen Have at least five inch hem at the bottom of the skirt. This Is turned up when the dress has been fitted on the shoulders. Cut the neck in shallow square front and back and finish with a narrow facing. Hem the bottom of the straight sleeve.
 Another dress cut from this pattern may be opened slightly to the left of the middle front from the neck to the hem, the back being cut in straight piece. Cut the neck in a shallow in front and straight round in the back. End the sleeves above the elbow, cutting in bias line an inch and a half high CT on the back of the arm than at the crotch of the elbow. Face around the neck and down each side of the front to the bottom of the skirt with an inch and quarter wide facing. Allow half inch for seams. Hem the sleeves to the same depth
 s: *
 Square Nccked Frocfs.
 With these two simple models four varied dresses can be made. One of the square necked frocks can be developed in butter colored crash or cotton crepe. with trim nings of Chinese blue linen. Cut a shaped band for the neck three and half inches deep in the middle front and back and slashed to form tabs. The middle one is about half the width of the neck opening and an inch and quarter deep. then cut out horizontal line to each side of this center tab, ending slightly beyond the width of the neck square. where another vertical slash of three guar ters of an inch is made horizontal one of an inch. and from there the trimming is sloped over the shoulder to meet similar cuts at the back of the neck.
 This banding is cut just the shape of the neck, opening at the top and joined to it by slip stitching. or is pasted in a seam with the facing. which is later turned and hemmed down. The bottom is turned up a quarter inch, carefully pasted to the frock, and stitched by machine or slip stitched closely.
 The sleeve Is trimmed with similarly squared bands, the shaped piece being an inch wide strip on the inside of the arm, the deepest tab, which is two inches high. com ing on the outside of the sleeve. For the belt cut straight band three inches wide front and back. save under the arms. where there Is deep squared tab five inches wide and nine or ten inches deep This peplum shaped belt is placed well up under the arms and stitched or tackled in place. Experiment with paper until the right shape is had.
 For another square necked effect have q dress of pink gingham or linen trimmed with straight bands of lowered English prints. Cut the neckband two inches wide save at the middle of the front and the back, where it widens to form point. The upper part Of both these bands follows the shape of the neck. When sewed in with the facing if will be necessary to slash the edges slightly to keep it smooth. Make similar pointed turned up bands for the sleeves.