Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-05-16
COATS s.
FOR EVENING WEAR
By Margaret Mason.

written for the United Press.)
Fashion says our coat and frock
Must be sleeveless, what a shock
This will be to Sara Brown,
Quite the smartest girl in town,
For she s often, believe,
Fond of laughing in her sleeve.
New York, May l5.-Not only are
evening gowns absolutely guiltless of
even hint of sleeve, but even the
coats have the habit. alost of the
smartest loose wraps, and capes and
coats are sleeveless and slip their
empty armholes over fair feminine
arms with all the careless abandon OF
perfectly good masculine waisteoat.
What is lost at one extremity, how
ever, is now made up at the other, for
protection petticoats have returned
again to the field, or rather to enfold
slender ankles in scan, white ruffles
of sheerest organdy or Paris muslin.
They are so narrow and so thin that
they neither add bulk to the ankle line
nor hide any of it. They quantity re-
semblo the old-style pantalets as they
peep out from under the short ruche
edged taffeta skirts of the moments,
and are indeed u far cry from the pet
ticoats of yore.
Indeed, in spite of the fact that they
really are petticoats, they are never
designed as such by She designers and
dressmakers, but answer the name of
underskirts or pantaleS frills.
! Appropos of not calling spade a
spade, you must never make the shock
ing mistake of calling separate whist
a waist--mercy no, Clarissa, it's a
blouse. Whatever is in name, in this
case there isn't much in blouse when
it comes to material. Just two layers
of chiffon or "a singfe thickness or ra-
ther thinness of bookmuslin hemstiteh-
ed around the open throat line, down
the front aQd around the plain three
quarter slightly flaring sleeves, makes
up some of the ehiekcst new models.
For an ornate touch they rely on a
fantastic girdle and sorgeOusly tinted,
usually with vestee, cuffs and collar OF
handkerchief linen promise great pop
ularity for the sumnier.
Always the bolt o. girdle plays a
striking part in the effective ensemble
of the blouse. The favorite Roman
stripes are shown in smart shirtings of
both silk and madras for the more tail
ored blouses and those to be worn with
the sport skirts and coats.
1t is no longer question of "button,
button, who's got the button'" since
every woman seems to have every but
ton tackled on to every available space
or Granny of some one or two of her
summer costumes.
Jet buttons are very smart on frocks
and suits of buff-toned taffeta, but
ball-shaped buttons covered in the
same taffeta as the gown are the cho-
sen trimming in straight row down
the center of the new tight fitting
/ basque models Cord buttons are also
a favorite garnishment, particularly
on voile and other cotton frock mater
ial frocks.
I Your dress may lack few little es
sentials like sleeves or even whole
waist, for in many instances girdlC
extended above the bust line is as good
as regular bodice any evening, but
let it lack buttons and it is sartorially
damned.
Leaping lightly from buttons to but
tonholes, it is interesting to note that
the bound and corded puttonholes are
now things of the past, and the gooC
old honest-to- goodness normal button
hole worked in thread has returned Il
its own. Packets also now have thei
proper place and appear as they shoult
according to best placket regulations il
the middle of the back of the skirt
Even if there is no seam there, sli
is made for the placket anyway, S,
anxious is it to return to its old hom,
after wandering life for the last tw,
or three seasons and transitory set
things in the front of the skirt at tn
side or on the hip.
1t is q sads blow to all 1914 Cinder
illas that loud pointed vamps are th
rage in the slipper line. 1t seems rath
er perverse that Americans should TAX
up the long pointed slipper and sho
just when it has been cast aside b,
the smart Partisan for the dainty shor
vamps of the erstwhi1e American foot
wear. Brought into even more prom
inenee by the shortwater skirts an,
up-to-date shod foot will prove conclu
siyply that II is ahoaa rathar +bo,