The Yale expositor., 1914-05-21


The corsage was of semi-kimono style,
and 1t was drawn on over delicious
guimpe composed Of ivory tulle and
Mechlin lace.
There were two long sash ends fall
ing in front, and these ends formed
part Of the corsage, which was slight
ly crossed at the bust. The sash ends
were decorated with fine bead en-
broidery in faded pastel tints, and
the same embroidery appeared on the
pointed front Of the corsage.
Another Paquin gown-this time
for dinner wear-was made of fine,
black silk net, which was arranged In
fiat plaits from bust to hem, a broad
satin sash molding the hips and fall
ing low in front in "Fatima" style.
The kimono corsage Of black net
was mounted over dainty, decollete.
bodice in flesh-pink tulle This was
a very simple dinner gown. but full
Of mysterious charm.
In Worth's showrooms | noticed
some handsome dinner dresses which
recalled the Louis XVI period. The
brocaded skirts used by the famous
dressmaker are marvels OF richness.
They are almost all woven from spe-
cial designs supplied by Worth him
self and the harmonies of color are
quite wonderful. For example, a din
ner dress designed for the queen of
Spain. The material was Lancret blue
brocaded satin and there was a draped
tunic OF embroidered tulle which
showed traceries of pale gold and dull
silver combined.
Exquisite Little Touches.
A supple sash OF blue mirror vel
vet was cleverly wound round the
waist and an exquisite, full-blown rose
in the new shade of cyclamen-pink
was thrust into the soft folds of the
cross-over corsage.
The queen of Spain, like Queen Mary
of England has set her face against
eXaggeratedly decollete evening
dresses. 1t is said that Queen Mary
has gone SO far as to request, pri-
vately, of course, certain ladies to re-
tire from her presence when they
cut down to the waist line in the
back.
The young queen of Spain is devoted
to all the soft shades of blue, for day
as well as evening gowns, and Worth
has lately made several lovely cos
tunes for her and also for her cousin,
the crown princess of Rumania.
The natural" corset is more popu-
lar than ever this season. On that
subject, at any rate, all the leading
dressmakers seem to agree. The waist
line of today Is practically that OF
the famous Venus de Milo.
No sign of pressure Is seen any
where. The bust and hips are made
to melt into the waist, and the whole
feminine form presents an appearance
of natural grace and charm which Is
admirable from every point OF view
Natural" Waist.
Paul Poiret, in particular, Is very
strong on the subject Of natural
waists. He has recently designed cos
tunes for two-if not three-new
pieces at smart theaters, and In all
these gowns he has shown his deter
mination to turn his back on any
thing like a small waist
The ultra-long tunic, or double skirt
introduced by Poiret this season, may
be said to be sensational" This Is
a really curious fashion, which recalls
the three-quarter length coats of the
wear 1890 These coats. or double
skirts, are very long, reaching nearly
to the hem of the skirt proper.
They are shaped in umbrella style
and lined with beautiful brocades, or
with printed silks showing eccentric
futurist designs. In serge, silk-fn-
ished linen. brocaded silk, ETC., these
double skirts are distinctly decora-
tive; some of them are buttoned right
down the front, others are opened a
little way down on either side, hand
some passementerie trimmings cover
ing these openings.
1t may be remarked that many Of
the new tunics are three-quarter
length, and that in almost all cases
these tunics are full at the hem and
shaped at the waist.
One OF Nine. cheruit's latest mod
els is an evening gown with the ultra
long tunic which Is now so popular.
The material of this gown was shell.
pink charmeuse and ivory.white tulle
and the tunic was slightly stiffened at
| the hem.