The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-06-14

~ as Princess vera recently lent .
her house and grounds at
Neuilly for "A charity fete which was
carried out on superb lines. The house
itself is picturesque and charming; ono
Of those spacious villa residences which I
seem far removed from the noise and
hustle q Paris. while in reality within
fifteen minutes drive OF the boulevards. !
The fete was given to provide funds !
for a lace school in the Touraine dis !
trict. The school was very thriving !
concern few years ago, but rival
establishments have taken away Its
patrons and the lacemakers attached to |
st have fallen upon evil times. Princess
Vera has a chateau in the neighbor- |
hood and her sympathies were aroused:
the charity fete was the result
1t was very interesting to study the
advance fashions OF to-day from quiet
corner of the great lawn which spreads
itself out before the villa. Some of
the most prominent members OF Partisan
society were present, either In the
character of buyers or sellers. In a
way it was private affair, for admis-
sion was by invitation only. Every one
knew every one else.
On studying the gay scene with the
eyes OF an impressionist the first thing
that struck me was certain subtle
change which has crept into the world
of dress. Genuine sylvan simplicity.
even in connection with garden party
gowns, has given place to the studied
and costly simplicity of the Louis XIV.
period. Many of the dresses which
trailed over the emerald lawn were
frankly CASTOR la Touche in design.
and It is well known that La Touche
borrowed nearly all his ideas from the
styles of Louis Nv.
The La Touche beauties thought moth
ing of bringing diamond shoe buckles
and tulle draperies traced over with
gold and silver into close connection
with green meadows and shady woods.
and so it Is with the more eclectic
Parisennes of to-day. Their gowns
are eXquisitely picturesque. and in
manner simple, but It is the simplicity
of La Touche, of Fragonard, OF Boucher
The "preciositc' of the Louis XIV.
epoch is fascinating, and with an open
air background it has the charm Of the
unexpected. For example. there was
the. gown worn by the hostess on the
occasion of this fete.
The underdress, which had q narrow
pointed train, was composed OF silver
gauze. Then there was clinging robe
of shell pink mousseline de sole traced
over with silver threads. The robe was
caught up at one side by sash of sap
phire blue velvet ribbon, one end or
which was loosely wound round the
waist.
There was a little manteau de cour
falling from the shoulders made Of dull
silver gulpure and the mousseline cor
sage opened over chemisette of
old yellow Naleuciennes lace. The
sleeves were short and immensely long
gloves in pearl gray suede were worn.
The little low shoes were also in pale
gray suede, with silver heels and large
diamond buckles through which folds
of sapphire blue velvet were drawn. At
the waist cluster Of mauve orchids
was worn ana the same delicate flowers
covered the fiat crown of the big cape
line in Tuscan straw. 1t was an Ideal
picture costume. Antonio de la Can
dara, who was present, examined 1t
closely and then said to me: "Aoso-
lutely perfect
] have described this costume in de-
tail because it gives an excellent idea or
the Style of dress which exclusive So
ciety women are now wearing at garden
parties, fetes, &c. ] have this season
seen many afternoon gowns which were
quite as rich and picturesque as any
worn in the relgns of Louis XIV. and
I.puis XIV. You do not see these styles
in tho street. nor even at the races;
nevertheless they are worn, and by the
best people.
The gowns shown on the two figures
have sketched this week were worn al
tho fete. The back view costume, worn
by Princesse Jean dc Broglie was eN'
ceedingly chic. The long, sleeveless
tunlc was made of black taffeta chiffon
while the underdress and sash were IN
shrimp pink and black striped gauze
The little shoes were made OF black kit
with shrimp pink heels and large dia'
mond buckles. The quaint, fiat crowned
hat was raised high at the back anC
trimmed with shaded feathers.
The second gown, worn by tn
Comtesse dc Ligran, was ideal for mid
summer wear. There Mas a clinginl
under dress Of flesh pink charmeusc
and over this was thrown long tunl
of moonlight blue chiffon with a dee
hem of white tulle traced over with a
elaborate design in pale gold threac
There was fichu arrangement II
white tulle over the shoulders an
crossed TlDDOHS III moonlight Diue vel
vet ribbon, The corsage was decollet
and the large capeline was trimme
with masses of roses; the hat itself wa
made of white chip and the lining Wa
moonlight blue mirror velvet.
Suddenly the picturesque hat know
in Paris by the name of capclnc Ia
come back into favor. After n Ion
spell OF ultra small hats cnd tOques "
find ourselves once more face to fat
with the picture hat, which Is so dea
to the eyes Of an artist, The chang
has been very sudden, but We may
quite sure that it will last, Picture hal
are too becoming and too dccOratiy
- be thrust aside for any length
- time; indeed they have never been la
aside by such leaders OF fashion
Princess Guy de Fauclcny-Luclnge, Il
Duchess of Marlborough, the Duche
OF GramOnt and several others,
Nido brimlne,i Tuscan and Lcghor
hRta viii be generally worn at Trouylll
..-t! 1cbast!an, &C., this au.umn,
reaction OF IA remarkable description
inevitable The Partisan mlliners ha'
insisted for so long II time that q