davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1914-01-13

the genuine kimouo model and it is
so pretty and 50 generally becoming
that we must all be glad Of the fact.
When the long sleeves are plain and
Joined to the bodice portion, the
effect is much the same as II all were
in one save that, the joining allows
the use Of dainty trimming and some
times Of a shaped outline. Already
we are wearing long sleeves with low
necks for the dinner hour and it is
probable that long sleeves with round
necks will make a somewhat inn
porlant feature Of summer fashions.
Some Of the sleeves are quite close
fitting below the elbows and are
finished with frills over the hands;
others again are gathered into cuffs
or bands; and there is almost limit
less variety in the treatment at the
point Of joining All the disturbances
that have been occupying the Euro
pean world for the past few months
have had a marked influence upon
incoming fashions. Bulgarian oolors
appear in a great many OF the en-
broidered effects The simple. some
what crude use Of bright tones that
IS familiar in semi-oriental countries
appears and the belted, or Russian
COSTUME will be a pronounced favorito.
il will be worn made Of linen and
similar materials for the street and it
will be worn made Of voile. crepe and ali
the dainty fabrics for indoor occa-
sions. In some instances. the blouse
Is genuine ono drawn in at the waist
line by means Of a belt, but often
the effect is obtained by the use OF a
deep pepum or short tunic and. in
these latter, are found many posi-
bilities for the use OF bordered ma
terials. Pronounced borders. those
that give a wide striped effect or any
very distinctive design Of the kind,
DO not lend themselves TO the double
skirt with marked success but among
borders are to be found delicate and
dainty embroideries. the most fasci-
mating bits Of color and treatments OF
many kinds that arc well adapted 70
the kimono idea. Some Of the hand
soonest toilettes that are exploited
in readiness for the southern exit are
absolutely simple so far as cut is
concerned. a beautiful gown, for
example, is Of ~n.te voie richly
embroidered in VIE and the border
appears ike si'vression Of narrow
pyramids. The s'slri is . perfectly
Evening journal., 1914-01-13

a HID-WINTER is sure to mean
W a variety Of functions and
- both the grown-ups and the
younger contingent viii need attract
We costumes for afternoon as well as
the more elaborate ones for evening
wear. This season, silk may fairly
be said to be pre-eminently the fash
ionsble material, for it is shown in an
infinite variety Of weaves and OF
colors and some sort can be found to
suit almost every need. Fur and
lace make the accepted trimmings and
they harmonic with the beautiful
silks to perfection, bringing about the
loveliest possible results. Brocaded
and lowered effects are in the very
height Of style for the more elaborate
toilettes and there are a great many
voiles, marquisettes and the ike
shown with brocaded or broche figures
that are exceedingly beautiful and
attractive in an altogether dainty and
fairy-like fashion.
Draped effects both in gowns and
in coats are conspicuous but, while
skirts frequently are draped, they are
not in ay sense voluminous, retaining
the narrow effect at the ankles and
over the hips, such fuilness as Is
allowed being placed between these
swo points There ia Ecasral ten
Evening journal., 1914-01-13

plain, straight one gathered at the
upper edge. The blouse Is in kimono
style and Is made with the lower edge
Of the border turned up toward the
neck and. below the belt, there is
straight tunic OF the border IL is
very handsome. The effect is almost
that Of an all-over embroidered gown
vet the effect has been produced 10y
the simplest possible means. Straight
skirts that are laid in narrow plaits are
seen, too. and skirts that are tucked
at their upper edges for bordered
materials are shown in interesting and
fascinating variety and designers must
needs use them to get the best results.
Straight skirts always make the
simplest means Of utilizing such fab
rics and are sure 20 be in demand but
borders are not always wide and many
Of them allow Of cutting off and are
used for the treatment Of various
original styles with the result that
numberless costumes Of varying sorts
are designed thereirom.
A noteworthy costume that empha-
sizes certain features Of the season is
made Of very dainty. delicate white
crape with a woven border Of the
zig-zag order mentioned last week
This border is headed by little punches
Of flowers embroidered upon the
material in the dull reds and blues
and greens familiar in the oriental
coloring. The skirt is plain and
straight, the border making The finish,
but over il there is long tunic Of
rlain crepe and this tunic is open at
the sides. all its edges being hem
stitched The bodice is made with
separate sleeves that are sewed TO 1t
al the dropping line but they are
ioined with a fancy iagoting stitch
that suggests trimming rather than a
Joining and. consequently, gives the
euimpe idea. There is q big collar
that also is hem-stitched and that
opens over a guimpe Of lace outlined
with embroidery in oriental colors
and the frills that finish the .leeves
are finished in the same way. The
cash is OF black satin and makes a
rather important feature, for it is
drapery rather than sash although
The latter term is employed There
is a crushed girdle a few inches in
width, held at the back by little
flower ornament and. beneath the
arms at each side, is attached a wide
sssh Of satin with hem-stitched edges
and these TWO sashes are brought
Evening journal., 1914-01-13

together at the back 10 be knotteo
some ten or twelve inches above the
lower edge Of the skirt The low
hanging sash. as it is called, is oriental
in origin and is expected 10 appcss
in new and original forms.
While, in a general way, abe straigh'
lines prevail. al sorts Of Dat plnltcl
skirts are shown and there is cvidcnco
Of greater amount Of material thaa
was used last year while combinations
are new and often interesting rhcfs
appears TO be somewhat of revival
OF the jumper idea among other fca
lures and a curious combination Of
that garment with Bulgarian colorine
Is found in an over blouse of sheer
white crepe with the sleeves anQ
quimpe Of the same material richly
embroidered in Bulgarian colors. a
verv beautiful Street costume of cotton
mtine is tcru in tone The skirt cou-
sists Of a deep closely fitted yoke 90
which Is attached a straight h4
plated skirt. The yoke, however. ;s
allowed to fan over the plaits 10 giW
something Of the tunic idea. The1
is a bodice with close fitting kmonQ
sleeves which terminate a little abovs
the elbows and to these sleeves arr
Joined long ones Of crepe embroidered
in Bulgarian colors, the joining being
made on an oddly shaped line. The
coat IS high WASTED. with the bell
that is almost universal, bur it is much
cut away at the front and is sleeve
less. with big armholcs and dropping
shoulders. Dainty frills Of lace finish
the neck and the sleeves. a.
Bits Of richest oriental coloriug
appear upon dull tones and upon Whit
as background and everywhere ,herc
IS evidence OF the influence. Even
the daintiest muslins are apt 10 giNf
evidence Of the oriental influences
and great many curious effects q
trimmings are to be noted Me14
buttons appear upon finest creps
for example. and Illuminated leathQ
trimming appears upon ciepc suitipf
and even upon crepe Of lighter softs
Ii is a SEASON Of odd effects, Of taf
unusual in many Ways, but Il als
IS a season Of much charm \ gredf
deal II red Is shown upon whi's
gowns and red sashcs are conspicuous
For sne daintier gowns OF evening"
ard >iinner OCCASIONS emhro'nefe1
nets arc much liked. !
Evening journal., 1914-01-13

draperies. The one illustrated makes
an excellent example. In one view it
is shown made OF brocaded silk with
fur trimming and, IN the back view
It Is made Of narrowly striped velvet
with lace and fur banding.
For girls and children, the daintiest,
thinnest materials are the preferred
ones and chiffon, crepe &c chine, mar
quisette and the like are iavorites
with pretty little flowers as trimming
and to hold the draperies. Accordion
plating IS being much used, too, and
a great many gowns for grown folk
as well as dresses for the little ones
are made thereirom. The fashion is
always q pretty ono. Tor the plating
is essentially graceful and attractive
and the thin materials that are being
used this season are peculiarly well
adapted TO the treatment The little
dress illustrated is designed for girls
Of fourteen years Of age and under but
accordion plating can be put to
great many desirable uses.
FASHION NOTES OF INTEREST.
New York, January. 1913.
WYE are having such eNcep-
M tionally mild weather for the
season here in New York that
summer costumes seem really inviting
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
PASTOR, 90, ATTRIBUTES
LONG LIFE TO GENIAllTY
Many Friends Will Aid Birth
Anniversary Celebration of
DR.. E. A. Campbell.

One of the biggest birthday anniver-
sary celebrations ever held in Corona
will take place there to-day. when the
congregations Of the Union Evangelical
Church and the Methodist Episcopal
Church unite in congratulating the Rev
Edward Alexander Campbell on his nine
tieth birthday.
The Rev William Jay Peck, pastor or
the Union Evangelical Church. will have
charge of the ceremonies, while the
Methodist Church will be represented by
members Of its official board.
Mr. Campbell was born in Ohio About
ffty years ago he took up his residence
i'm the old town Of Newtown. now the
% Ward Of Queens. He held services in
all the adjoining villages. and In order
TO help out his scant salary taught
school and for years was principal or
what was then known as the Old Wood
School.
More than two generations Of the old
time residents Of that section were
taught in his school. so that aside from
the churches many of his oldtime pupils
will take part in the present celebration.
Mr. Campbell attributes his age and
good health TO regular habits and ge-
NAL disposition He was twice married
and lives with his wife in Corona ave-
nue. Corona
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30

rangement with Germany respecting Mo-
rocco solely because Of English support.
Anglo German relations have much i'm
proved within the last year. but II Ger
many comes TO believe that the BRUSH
army cannot be depended on the question
whether she Will take advantage or Eng
land. as she did Of Russia after the lat
ters defeat by Japan. must he seriously
considered
Lombard street which has been in ad-
vance OF the stock markets since the be-
ginning of the year. continues, however
to take a more cheerful and optimistic
view than the stock markets ana again
last week put down discounts. overnight
loans ruled st 81. per cent and weekly
fixtures al "a. but three and four months
bills were quoted at rs and sixty DAYS anu
six months bills at rs per cent thls
though the outside market was obliged 10
continue TO call on the bank.
The affairs OF Brazil have taken turn
for the better, and Brazilian securities
have gone up, while 1t is expected no"
that Argentina will take a large part or
the gold she needs from Brazil. Though
the Argentine corn crop is big, the other
Argentine crops are not so good. A more
favorable feeling is noticeable as regards
Mexico.
The bank lost $685. 900 gold last week
reducing the stock TO s2o4.2lo,Vp whlle
the reserve declined s., go 900 to sl5S,5So 0Vo
The proportion OF reserve TO liabilities fell
TO 1876.
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
Foreign Opinion on Mutiny
of Army Officers a
Big Factor.
LOMBARD STREET
REMAINS BUOYANT
Discounts Again Lowered, Though
Bank of England Reports
Falling Stock of Gold.
fRy cahle 10 The Tribune. ]

London. March 2s-The strike Of the
army officers hung over the stock mar
kets last week. ana while there was no
forced liquidation the fall in prices pre-
vented any active buying. \ recovery
might otherwise have been expected. MI
the discussion Of Home Rule and all the
talk of Ulster miltancy produced but lit
tie effect in the city, but when it was
shown that army officers had been per-
suaded by Unionist politicians into prac-
tical mutiny the city began to take seri-
Gus notice.
This development in the position no
longer had a purely domestic aspect, but
assumed international proportions. Finan-
ciers have to consider the effect on Con-
tinental opinion of the army officers ac-
tion. The money powers do not forget
that France was able To confront Ger
many and TO come TO a reasonable ar
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
changes as a necessity under present eco
nomic conditions.
Coffee Recovering.

Coffee futures have been in better de-
mand, especially in the late trading, after
some weakness on small trading early in
the week. The foreign markets and
financial conditions in Brazil have DON'T
mated the local market. and the sharp
gain in Saturdays trading was due 10
the report that a group OF French bank
ers had made an advance of T.5Oc,Wo as
part of a loan of slOO,00o,0O0 10 Brazil.
This. coming on a practically sold-out
market. caused some lively hustling by
shorts in the halliday session, although
the profit taking naturally following a
jump of 10 to % points at the start caused
a small reaction. The general feeling is
that the market has been steadied by the
financial developments. and more conh-
dence is expressed The present spot
price for Rio No. :, nine cents, is three
cents under the price year ago, but no
material advance is looked for at pres
ent and interior roasters are reported 10
be importing direct in many cases
In the country produce markets butter
and eggs still continue the main features
of trading interest. with marked declines
in both as the outcome of the week
business. Apples have held steady ana
in some instances higher. especially the
finest table grades.
South African fruits are being quoted
in this market, and for domestic produce
the demand holds steady at fair prices
for good quality stuff. Livestock and
dressed meats have shown no marked
changes, although the general tendency
is inward Price changes have been only
fractioDal, however. and few declines
have been noted.
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
WEEK OF RAINS PREDICTED
"eatner Bureau Also Prophe-
sizes Higher Temperature.

.h'hston, March 2s - Unsettled
~ >''ef' with frequent rains over nearly
d. ,~''' Of the country. IL predicted by
"ea'osr Bureau for the coming week.
temperatures during the next several
49,. sslo the bulletin. will average
s,'f y's 'hs normal over the Eastern and
,.n .'nsfn states and near the normal
s,' .nS the Northern border. in the Rocky
rl'Sln .'u' region and on the Pacific slope
an,u'bance central on sunday morning
sa.,,' .'s southern plains states VIII move
- northssstvsrd and be attended By
20 rains the fret part OF the week
we Mississippi VALLEY and the districts
'as, thereof. ~ WV ''"''
a, s''nsr .s disturbance that Is approach
s,, we North Pacific Coast viii move
t,,.. over the Northern states and
a. ns great central valleys on Tues
:, NJ W. Wednesday and the Eastern states
ses s'sui'dsy Or Friday This disturbance
- y ATTENDED by rains and b. followed
change 10 conalderably colder
~, 10 Northern ana Central states
F" ms Roxy Mounts,n."
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
USED VETERANS IN FRAUD?
Civil War Soldier Accused Of
Conspiracy Against U. S.

Denver. March 29.-James +. Bellew.
veteran OF the Civil War, was arrested
here last night by the United States Mar
shal on a warrant charging conspiracy TO
defraud the government. The warrant
was based on an indictment issued by the
grand jury for the Eastern District Of
Kansas. II is charged that Bellew. NJ.
Carr and II. r. Covey conspired to gain
possession of two thousand acres of rich
land in Baca County. Col.
The indictment sets forth that Bellew
and his associates. known as the Colo
RADIO Land Company. OF Wichita. Kan
induced old soldiers and widows OF civil
War veterans 10 file soldiers declaratory
statements on the land in Baca County.
and that he and his associates then pur-
chased relinquishments on the property
for sums ranging from $40 10 s63.
Belew is held in the county Jail here in
default OF $3.50 bond.
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
REEL EFFICIENCY COMING
Films Will Aid Unusual EX
hibits at Show.

Motion pictures will play an important
part in the first National Efficiency EX-
position held in this city. which opens in
Grand Central Palace on Saturday. In
addition to the exhibitions OF efficiency
machinery and devices. the films will be
used TO show graphically the process of
manufacture Of many Of the displays.
William r. Wilcox is president OF the
association in charge.
A feature Of the exposition will be an
efficiency kitchen and an efficiency laUn-
dry. Another exhibit Is that of the
famous "dictagraph." while the INTERIOR
ough company. the United States Steel
Corporation and the New York Telephone
Company have displays showing the i'm
portan; steps in their business
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
VOGEL TO BE HEARD TO-DAY
Will Appear as Witness in Sic
gel Bankruptcy Case.

Frank F.. Vogel, partner of Henry Sic
gel in his commercial enterprises. is ex
pected 10 be a witness at the resumption
of the bankruptcy hearing to-day before
United States Commissioner Cilchrist.
Vogel. who has been i'll in Chicago, has
promised TO be present.
The reorganization plan for the Simp-
son Crawford Company store will also be
considered to-day before Judge Hough,
in the United States District Court. In
the event that the reorganization plan
should not prove acceptable. It is said
that Judge Hough will accept the bid Of
Gimbel Brothers Of 1857 90 for the mer-
chandise OF the Simpson Crawf@d store
and order the sale OF the fixtures at auc-
ton.
The merchandise and fixtures OF the
Fourteenth Street Store will be sold AT
auction beginning tomorrow. Depos-
itors will meet on Wednesday night at
the Labor Temple. 42d street and Third
avenue
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
Cotton's lrregularity.

Tbere has been considerable speculative
activity in the last week in cotton an ad-
vance on Monday being followed oy
series of reactions and recoveries, with
shorts at times active bidders. and enoi-
mons lidudation of New York Liverpool
straddIes. This particular line Of trading
was marked by narrowing Of the dif-
farence between May here and May-Juns
in Liverpool from l42 points to about ~
noiuts. although this was Increased shsht-
ly later.
In the mean time the premium on
March over May. at one time only ~
noints. widened 10 nearly so points ana
the actions OF the March option uadihs
I'm which closes al noon on Tuesday nave
heen an interesting feature OF the market
T, 20 admitted that at the present high
nr,ces there is practically sure to be an
,rcrsased acreage of cotton this year. and
South Carolina farmers are reported 10
have bought $4,000 tons OF fertilizers so
far which is the largest quantity on
record.
Dallas reports that several OF the big
snot firms there are closing UP Tor the
season. and advices from Fort Worth on
Saturday said there was a good demand
for low grades The amount Of cotton on
shipboard at the close OF business on Fri
dav was about the same as last year, and
there are predictions OF a falling of in
exports after the first OF the month The
Washington news report that. after
having passed the Smith bill. motion
was made in the Senate on Friday TO
consider on the ground that one OF its
amendments had not been fully consid-
cred. left the trade more or less confused
q 9 To the prospects for legislation.
Generally speaking. however. much more
confidence Is felt In the attitude OF the
administration with reference TO commod-
itv exchanges. and this confidence was
Increased by the republication here OF
letter from Postmaster General Burleson
10 An Alabama paper upholdinG the IN
derwood BILL which defeated the Clarke
bill in the House at the last session OF
Congress. and characterizlns the ex-
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
LAW NO CURE FOR SIN
Personality the cole Corrective
Saws Father Mccarthy.

Most of the sins Of society are rem
dered strangely attractive and alluring-
for sin. in the atmosphere Of the world.
is merely frivolity. Refinement forgives
everything but vulgarity. and society's
only unpardonable crime is detection"
The Rev. Daniel J. Mccarthy, s. J..
said this in his sermon at the high mass
at St Patrick's Cathedral yesterday.
Law" the preacher went on can
never correct sin. Only personality can
do that Personality alone can correct
the character Of persons. Character is
not taught. but caught. and the most po-
tent influence in life Is not an instruc-
tion nor a commandment. but friend
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
SOCIETY 1928 YEARS OLD
Mechanics and Tradesmen Owe
Much to Mr.. Carnegie.

The General Society Of Mechanics and
Tradesmen of the City OF New York has
just published its annual report showing
Us years OF progress. The report con-
tains a history OF the society's growth
from small beginnings in l7S5 TO the large
endouments and extensive activities OF
the present.
holdings. and Andrew Carnegie. a mem
Der. has been a large contributor In
lS9q and 1904 he gave S325. 00D for building
purposes. and ne maintains a special e0u
cationai fund which provides $1,000 an
nualiy. The society spent $50 sis 80 last
year.
The society maintains free technical
and trade schools, a library and PEN
sion fund
New-York tribune., 1914-03-30
REVIEW OF THE
CROP MARKETS
Grain Prices Higher at the
Close - Cotton and
Coffee Advancing.

There was considerable uncertainty
about the local grain markets early IN
the week although as a whole the week
showed advancing tendencies. Wheat
was affected by European reports based
on ample world shipments. and by favor
able weather conditions in the West.
Price changes were small but at times
abrupt. and in some cases were plainly
influenced by the situation in corn.
The impression that July and Septem-
ber contracts had been selling at too
large a discount under the May option
accounted for comparative frmness al
times In the new crop months, but the
market I'm general appeared 20 be In
waiting position. with much of the trad
ing confined TO switches and scalping op-
erations by professionals.
Cash markets have ruled quiet, and very
little export business has been reported
The closing price Of spot No. red
81 Oers. is So cents under the price year
ago. but there does not seem to be any
warrant for a radical advance in THIS
market. I'm view of the excellent crop
prospects and conditions in other export
ing countries.
Corn made a sharp advance i'm the early
trading Of the week. with light offerings
and some active scrambling by scared
shorts. based on an Improvement in the
snot demand and reports of smaller in
terror receipts This bulge did not last
long. however. as the high prices brought
out offers Of large quantities OF Argen-
tine at figures under a parity with local
quotations, and bears came forward WIN
predictions of serious competition from
the Argentine in the domestic corn mar
ket.
The invasion Of this country by Argen-
fine corn is being watched with consid-
erable interest abroad. although strong
prices have prevailed in the Contlnentai
and English markets. A Galveston hrm
was credited with having bought so"o
bushels. with other firms taking almost
as large amounts. There is feennS
among a large class of dealers that the
Importance of Argentine importstohs
has been overestimated. as the receiVI
Of even 100000 bushels from there Would
no only very small proportion or he
enormous consumption in this country.
The closing spot price of No. mixed
7si, cents. is 1sa. cents over the price OF
wear ago. and an advance of 4is cents
for the last month.
oats have followed their general rule OF
fuctuating with corn, and have exhibited
no special feature. There has been some
buying of July against selling of May. ana
some buying of September against sales
of Julv. Speculation has been on mod
crate scale and the cash demand has oeen
fair. The available supply. 3s,oooVo oush-
els. is l3. 100000 bushels larger than year
ago but the closing price of spot NO.
white. 49, cents, is ~ cents more than
the price for the corresponding date last