The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1914-05-07
Summer Skirts Show Hip
Draperies

> belong to the closely fitted jacket
! exploited by renownd Partisan dress
maker. Sleeves stitched on to tn.
ends of elongated shoulders, or of tn
kimono kind. cut in one with the bacl
and the front, are a matter of cours
with the loose jacket of this season
Their lengths vary And in their diff
fering phases these sleeves proclaim
the individuality of modern woman
For if she happens to fancy tie con
tour of her forearm the fashionable
women shows as much of it as she
wishes to. And if she does not adj
mire it, she conceals it.
Startling at times is the narrowness
of the tailored skirt Impossible to
walk or run in that skirt it appears to
the uninitiated Yet is it possible to
adopt the stride of an athlete when
wearing it, because of the split sides
or the Premet lift at the back. And
again, because of the very clever
scheme which many tailors have de-
vised of curving the overlapping and
slightly uplifted fronts. This treat
ment affords plenty of leeway for step
ping.
The long overskirt is the birth date
mark of this seasons trotteur costume.
1t is gathered into the belt and falls
in loose, sometimes irregular folds, far
below the knees, or is fitted smoothly
about the hips and stands out from or
clings to the figure. 1t is sometimes
cut to form part of the underskirt,
which invariably is narrow.
One might naturally expect to see
the pannier, but 1t is not visible on any
of the afternoon suits. ALI the Huff
of the skirt is produced by two or more
tires of knife pleatings or by deep
circular shaped ruffles, adjusted here
and there with a few gathers and elg-
ed with shell-shaped ruches of box
pleated frillings. There are yoke
topped skirts, toofi for the benefit of
the woman whose hip structure re-
fuses to be wholly dominated by cor
sets, and into this yoke the delusively
fuffy-looking shaped ruffle is gathered
Topped up in Premet effect. When |
he hip development will not admit
Of the Premet drape the back of the |
skirt is laid in two pleats, starting
rom the belt line ,cleverly concealing
t.
Sashes assist the hustle idea, which
lad it's inception-so far as the pres
mt generation is concerned-in the
'remet drapery, and sashes so hand
II hand with frivolity. They are re-
,arded with scorn by the strong-mind-
d and they appeal irresistibly to the
ay and the inconsequent. Typically
frivolous is Doucet's favoriate mustard
rab zibelin suit, the jacket of which
5 cut out below the waist line of the
ack to allow the wide loops of the
ash to spread freely. This big bow
eads tiers of shaped ruffles, which,
ddly enough, trim the entire back of
he skirt, its sides and front being
lain.
The Hottentot girdle is the dernier
ri in belt wear. 1t is very broad,
rushed girdle of soft silk, from
Tree to six inches in length-just such
girdle as the Hottentot maid wears
Y way of a gala costume, except that
er attire is built of knotted leather
longs and beads, while the fashion
ole New York girdle is made of
ripped tango crepe or pussy willow
.ffeta and fringe. The girdle of
shion is also worn with very mod
n frock of a blouse and skirt COM
nation, and not, naturally, as a COM
etc costume. At the front the
idle fastens with invisible snap
lttons, huge metal clasp covering
e fastenings.
For the afternoon frocks there is
ide range of choice. Delightful frocks
r formal wear are made up in some
the soft crepes or chiffon, taffeta
satin stuffs, or one of the sheer
ilings or chiffon materials.