Evening journal., 1914-07-31
NILADY'S Waist
line IS CHANGED
New Styles Show the Fash
ion This Year to be Some-I
what in Doubt
BASQUE CAUSES
NEW ARRANGEMENT
BY MARGARET MASON.

CWritten for the United Press).
To put his arm about her waist,
He yearns, the ardent lover;
But just quite where her waist should
be
He really can't discover;
It has it's ups and downs, you see.
And always under cover
NEW YORK, July 31.-In these
fashionable days of frank revelations
my lady's waist line seems to be
about the only part that Is left
to the imagination With her bodice
cut so low and open to the elements
and elementals and her sheer lace
skirts open to criticism, the waistline
Is the only part kept within bounds.
Yet as a boundary II Is as contested a
bit of topography as the River Of
Doubt
Here today and there tomorrow the
waist line is wont to pursue its free
and untrammeled way anywhere from
the knee up to the bust line. On one
hand we are assured that II is to be
done away with entirely like other
waste places of the earth and then
comes the portent for fall that It will
still be IN our midst and all squeezed
up again to erstwhile eighteen inch
lroportions. Indeed II seems no idle
threat that this Autumn the glass OF
fashion will be the hourglass and
that the feminine figure will figure
a figure eight once more.
It's the basque that Is doing it but
az the time of going TO press the waist
line has resisted all pressure and Is
yet guiltless of any oonyeXity, basque
or no basque. In fact quite the
newest wrinkle is to have your
basque wrinkled as If over an entirely
uncorsetod figure In its most ap'
proved form the basque of the mo-
ment is cut in three OF FIVE pieces
huttOned with very obvious buttons
from the low cut neck down to It's
finish which is apt to be either al
the hip line or well down below IL.
White taffeta is quite the smartesi
| fabric for the fashionable basque as
r. is in indeed for the entire approved
lingerie frock
Time was when a lingerie frocl
meant a washable dress OF tul
material even as was my ladys veri
| table lingerie but since those init
mate garments are these days fas
1 hioned of pussywillow taffeta It IL
only the natural course of events
that the frocks deriving their quail
/ ties and name therefrom should alsl
be evolved from the soft lengths o
white taffeta.
The skirts finishing these whit
taneta basque frocks are full SHIRE
affairs either set on the basqu
plainly or with a hip sash of blac
velvet.
Black velvet pumps worn with th
sheerest OF white silk stockings an
one of the new black velvet hats con
nlete this costume which stamp
ou one of Immediately in black an
white as the last word in up to tn
minute fashions.
Truly the fully shirred skirt is no'
the correct thing and the tight affai
that has had you so long in its gras
has been forced to relinquish il
strangle hold even as an underskir
under the long Russian tunic.
This pretense of a tight underskiT
has been frankly discarded and IN
long full tunic. heightened slight!
las revoluted into the entire and onl
skirt, sufficient unto itself. Skirt
| composed entirely Of flounces G
either lace or silk are very popula
with the basque waists and som
daring designers are actually show
ing models of the flounced skirts owe
small hoops.
Pleated skirts are also right on th
job in the fullness thereof especial
on the dancing frocks Fashione
from the gossamer lightness of Nal
nes, lace. chiffon or net. those air
accordion pleated skirts lend then
selves beautifully TO the successfl
tripping of the light fantastic and III
mazes of the maXiXe
A perfect gem of dance frock
combination of black velv,
basque with a frothy skirt of accoi
dion pleated white net nounces. {
course the basque is decollette and
red. red rose is pinned to the lei
| / shoulder. Worn with a high Spanis
comb in the hair this costume lead
one to expect its wearer to break int
fandango a la Carmencita rattle
than a maxine or hesitation a la Mr.
Vernon Castle. John Sawyer. Flo
cnce Walton, Mrs. Douglas Crane {
one of the other ffty-seven varieti,