davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23

an ordinary seam. bringing the seam on
the right side so that the facing strip
may be turned down on the right side
OF the garment and stitched. At the
corners the facing must be mitered. and
the seams opened with the thumb and
finger and pressed fiat. A pretty pun
is given the sleeves. when applying the
bands. by gathering the material so as
TO give a little fullness. a gathering
thread is run along the lower part of
the sleeves about one-qUarter OF an inch
from the edge. and the bias band of
lawn is basted to the material along the
line of the gathering thread. One inch
above this seam. on the sleeve, another
gathering thread is placed, and then the
bias facing is turned back and stitched.
" the waist. which should be a little
above the normal line. gathering threads
are run an inch apart and the goods
drawn into a pretty fullness. Between
these two lines of gathering is stitched
strip Of the bias facing. first having
turned in the raw edge one-quarter of an
inch. to match the edge that is turned.
At the bottom the nightgown is slit at
either side. and the corners may be left
square or rounded. Either a facing
turned up on the right side, or a hem.
may be used to finish this part Of the
garment. One inch wide ribbon ar
ranged as SHOWN Dy lue uTd"lnS HIllSllSs
the nightsown.
New Designs I'm UndcrEnrments.
Model No. shows a pretty pair OF
drawers that are new in design. and that
will be easy TO make and practical when
finished. They are in two pieces with
"a seam at the front, and at the inside
OF either leg. At the waist. and at both
sides of the back, they are finished with
a facing of the lawn. At the lower edge
of each leg. a facing OF the lawn is used
as a casing for the ribbon. which is tied
in a short bow on the outer edge OF each
leg.
Model No shows a dainty chemise of
nainsook, which can also be copied in
crepe de chine or China silk. 1t is moth
ing more than a straight piece of the
material. a suitable length, which length
must be determined by the wearer
tucked at the top in groups of four tucks
each. At either side at the lower edge.
it is slit and finished to match the night
gown. bias strip of the lawn finishes
the top. and straps Of ribbon over the
shoulders hold the garment in place.
Bows Of ribbon are used as a trimming
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23
pMARy ELIzABETH HALL,


chocolate has an important place with
~. cs,dy-rnalser, because It is necessary
..a covering, has a pleasing flavor and
has n real food value. As covering II
ADDS the important advantage OF oieno-
inr with almost any flavor used for the
cream Sling Chocolate furnishes tne
Uniform. covering that Is desirable Tor
al candy. Without such coating one
candy. takes from its neighbor unsightly
hits of color and foreign fiaVors which
are not pleasing to the palate or eye:
The weather affects all candy-making,
but the confectioner must pay particular
attention to it If she is working with
chocolate. Do not try to use chocohte
even for dipping and much less for coat
ing upon a damp day. The professional
confectioner controls the atmosphere as
far as his little corner OF the universe
goes but so long as the amateur cannot
a. the same she must wait for the sum-
As the basis for chocolate coating un-
xveetened bakers chocolate should be
used First, break the cake into small
pieces, for the mass should melt as a
whole. The Jumps should not be allowed
TO become soft on the outside while the
center is yet hard. Put the chocolate into
. dIsb which is larger than the top of
fhe receptacle which holds the boiling
water. Let the water boil vigorously. Re-
move from the fire and then place the
dish holding the chocolate over the water.
As the chocolate begins 10 melt stir It
occasionally until It is all melted. Re
move the dish from the heat and by a
slow smoothing motion begin to work
the oil from the mass. The process Is
similar to the incorporating of oil in a
Inayonaise dressing except that in this
case the whole quantity is handled at
once. Although the OIL Is not SO much
in evidence as in making salad dress
ing, it is none the less present. To make
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23
WORK OF A WEALTHY GIRL.

Among the wealthy girls who have
devoted themselves to sociological work
rather than society is Miss Maria Baca,
of New York. who braved the intense
cold OF a Michigan winter in an en-
deavor to alleviate the sufferiugs of the
families of the foreign copper miners
at Calumet.
Miss Baca is a college graduate and
student of sociology. and becoming in
terested in conditions in the North left
8 Mexican ranch. where she had been
staying. and arrived with letters of in
PRODUCTION to the officials Of the Western
Federation of Miners.
With 4 woman interpreter as her sole
companion, Miss Baca managed in eight
weeks to make fifteen sleigh Journeys in
which she covered every district, in spite
of the fact that the thermometer was
twenty degrees below zero.
Although she has spent over 1900 of
her own money in purchasing shoes and
clothes for the wives and children, she
has been working among. she claims to
have been actuated only by the bracing
sir.
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23

OF refinement taboo anything of this
kind. feeling that even though these gar
ments are only worn in the privacy of
the boUdoir. it is more modest to en-
Iploy materials with scme body. In or
der to do this. il is not necessary 10 have
heavy stiff weavss for perfectly lovely
things may be had in the way of cot
ton goods that are soft and easy to work
with and that will hang prettiIy when
worn.
Naninsook, cambric. longcloth, batiste.
and lawn are the weaves usually en-
ployed. and these may he had at almost
any price one wishes to pay. nice
quality that will be suitable for making
the garments of this trosseau may be
had for about 81 cents a yard. 1t is -
inches wide, and will cut to advantage
when making any of the pieces Of this
set. new and satisfactory finish that
is used on many Of the incest pieces of
lingerie shown this season is pictured
1t is nothing more than a facing of very
fine lawn made sufficiently wide that il
can be used as a casing through which
the ribbon ties are run.
Quickest Way to Make Robe.
To make this nightgown in the quick
e. way the whole garment should be
cut out before commencing to sew Care
must be taken to allow sufficient mate
rial both at the back and front for the
tues, and II one wishes, these may be
made by hand, but it is by no means
necessary to do so in order to have a
! neat and pretty gown when finished be-
cause the stitching can be made by ma
chine with equally good results. The
only reason that We suggest that the
sewing be done by hand is that many
women consider 1t less trouble to do the
work that way, and to mark each tuck
as they come to it, than to adjust and
use the machine appliance necessary
When there is a great deal of tuckinG
to be done or IL the tucis are very long.
IL is quite a different matter, and time
would be saved by using the machine.
After the tucks are made the neck and
sleeves are finished. To do this a bias
strip OF lawn one and one-half inches
wide, Is used. This strip must be cut
on an exact bias, or 1t will not set nicely
when on the garment. Much time will
be saved II several yards of this facing
Is cut at the same time and the various
strips neatly Joined. To join 1t the sell
wage is cut from both edges and an or
dinary seam is made on the wrong side
These seams are all opened and pressed
back with the thumb. after which one
edge of the material Is turned down one
quarter of an inch. The strip Is then
ready for use. and in order to keep It
fresh and smooth II should be wound
around the hand and pinned so that II
can be unrolled as 1t Is needed. At the
Joined to the edge Of the nightgown with
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23

to have a serious quarrel with her hus-
band over what can be avoided. When
it comes 90 it. his>peace of mind should
be everything to you. Close the slit.
let out the seams a little. You will look
just as sweet and have the satisfaction
of knowing you have made him happy.
HE POUTS AT ME IN COMPANY.
Dear Miss Libbey: Kindly advise me
Am a young married lady Of nineteen.
Husband is two years my senior. II I
say anything in company that don't
suit him, he pouts: don't speak to a
person in the room: picks up a paper.
or book, and remains quiet the rest OF
the evening. Often I've told him how
miserable 1t makes every one present
feel. He has a habit Of pinchinE me.
Says he does IL for fun. to show me he
loves me. I am jolly. would like to
know how can break him of these bad
habits. MRS. ]. B.
1t may be that he is trying to tease
you, imagining that you are oveTparticu-
lar in what he regards as more nice
than wise" He certainly makes a bad
remembrance of himself in pouting. as
children do. and burying himself behind
a book or paper. Try not noticing these
unwise practices of his. II he resorts to
the savage doing OF pinching you. give
him a gentle touch Of the same. What's
sauce for the goose is sauce for the
gander."
ACTS COLD TO A PERFECT LADY.
Dear Miss Libbey: /, lonely, broken
hearted girl, ask your advice, please. Am
twenty-one years old, much in love with
young man 1 was betrOthed to marry
in May His bushes kept him out Of
town a great deal. He first wrote me let
ters twice a week. four months ago.
Lastly failed to send one a week. Init
mate with his family, l called on his
mother, who sent for me, saying her son
came to her home days before. He had
fallen in bad company, smoked cigar
cites, received letters from an undesira-
Bile girl; spoke seldom of me. DO not
give back his diamond ring" she said
We went to church. He after enlisted in
army. I angered him. asking Of this girl.
Did I do right? Ought to let him go, or
visit his parents?
BROKEN-HEARTED.
You surely have had an experience out
Of the common. They say the course OF
true love never runs smooth" II that is
the genuine outcome. then there may be
a change for the better in your romance.
You can only hope for the best and trust
the result will be in your favor. Absence
in the army may make him steady and
repentant.
tCopyriEh;. fst&)
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23

Bessie: Economy is no excuse when,
for a small sum, you can make AT nome
n full pint of the very best scalp anu I na,I
tonic as follows: Put 1 ounce quInLoLn
from YOUR druggist's), into pint aico-
hoI. then add \ pint water. Rub a nttie
At n time well into the scalp ana danoruI
and excess oil will quickly disappear;
Continued use of the quinzoln Tonic VII
restore the soft fun and beautiful gloss
70 brittle faded hair. The timely use OF
This tonic will always keep your sceip
healthy and your hair beautltul- Ihls
tonic is very soothing TO TENDER Hcnihs
scalps.
Brown Eyes: For a harmless eye tonic
dissolye j ounce crystos in l pint clear
water and you wiH have as good an eve
tonic as money can buy. This Is exeeilehI
for tired, infiamed or aching eyes anu .
quickly relieves granulated Ids OnIy
~ = drops are required in the eye at q
time and its use frequently overcomes the
need for glasses.
Cora B.: To stop gaining weight make
up this simple, harmless formula at nome
and take a tablespoonful three times
day and YOU will soon be rid Of that trou-
ble In l-2 pints hot water dissolve =
ounces parnctis (which all good druggists
have in stock). This treatment does not
call for dieting and is gentle, yet POSITIVE,
IN reducing fat When your weight Is
sufficiently reduced stop the treatment
and your flesh will be solid and the skin
free from wrinkles
Teacher: You ask for a good wrinkle
eraser. use plain alrnozoin cream-oeily,
The most effective thing know for Grad
.icating wrinkles and fine lines II Is
made as follows: At home dissolve j
ounce almozoin in y pint cold water,
then add teaspoonfuls glycerine. After
II Is thoroughly dissolved apply gener-
ously TO skin and massage lightly the
: long way Of the wrinkle. This treatment
eaergizes the stunted tissues under the
crease, and they gradually assume their
correct proportions. When this is done
the wrinkle viii have vanished. The al
mozoin massage n very effective In
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23
HOME DRESSMAKING

the upper part is elaborated with groups
of small tucks. The strip Of shadow
lace used to complete the lower part Of
the corset cover may have either a
straight or scalloped edge. II should be
about six inches wide and be neatly
Joined to the lower edge Of the silk II
lace with a scalloped edge is employed.
II is set on the silk instead Of being
Joined with a seam. Ribbon ties and
bows finish the garment
NainsoOk Used for NiRhtEowns.
Model No. 3 shows a dainty night
gown that is simple and easy to make.
yet quite pretty enough TO be included
in the trosseau Of even the most fas-
tidious bride. There is a marked tendency
TO employ very sheer materials for de-
veloping the new undercIothes, and fash
ion has gone so far as to use goods that
are little more\ than transparent. Women
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23
Health and Beauty Aids
By MRS. MAE MARTIN.

cleansing the skin of pimples, blackheads
and other blemishes.
Ida: Try this simple method for the
quick removal Of hair or fuzz: Mix a
paste with some powdered delatone and
water. Spread on hairy surface and aft
er two minutes rub on, wash the skin
and the hairs are gone. This is a painless
and sure method, but be certain It Is DEL
atone you get.
Grace M: Pains in the back and legs
and the usual spring fever" are fire.
quently caused by bad kidneys. and the
trouble should receive prompt attention.
/ make at home a body-builder and tonic
of real value by pouring i ounce kardene
(from your druggist's), into II pint alco-
cJpful sugar, then hot water to make a
full G11art. A Tablespoonful before each
meal is the dose. This gently rids the
blood of poisons and puts the liver kid
neys and stomach in healthy condi-
tion. and its timely use prevents much
sickness.
Florence: 1 find the best treatment
for faded. "stringy' hair or dandruff In
to shampoo regularly with a teaspoonfui
Of canthrox dissolved in q cup Of hot wa
ter which viii restore its color, fun and
sheen and SO invigorate the hair-roots
This makes plenty of thick, cleansing
lather that loosens and dissolves all dust
dandrun and excess oil. Rinsing leaves
scalp and hair wonderfully sweet, clean
and healthy.
Athlete: Try using this simple lotion,
which Will insure you against freckles
and protect your skin from spring winds
Dissolve 4 ounces -spurmax (from any
drug store). In either X pint hot water or
witch hazel and add teaspoonfuls giy-
cerine. Apply sparingiy to face, neck
and arms and rug lightly until 1t, van
ishes. The spurmax lotion is superior to
powder because one application lasts
an entire day. Shiny skins, oilness pim-
Piles and other complexion upsets dis
appear quickly, and its use is q benefit
70 the finest complexion.
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23
MODEL NO. 3-NIGHTGowN
OF NAINsOOK.
Total cost, S3o3-

This garment requires, for
the average pcrsoui
Three and one-half yards of
naInsook. - inches wide, at Is
cents q yard.
Five yards of ribbon. 1 inch
wide, ut Is cents n yard.
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23
SUCCESSFUL WOMAN PUBLISHER

The window of Alfred Mutt, the vel
known English publisher, who died In
1910, is one of the increasing number OF
women who have been able to carry on
their husbands business with success
when occasion required it. Many interest
ing books come from this publishing
house of which this capable woman ID
now the head.
The Washington herald., 1914-04-23

Ratine in plain and cutwork design is
used for this frock. The skirt is draped
: in plaits at the front and sides and the
+ blouse is necessarily plain, since the ma
terial Is fancy. 1t is finished with girdle
of satin and the V-shsPed neck is filed
in with a rufile OF soft lace, wired in
visibly. Tiny frills of the same trimming
are used for the elbow sleeves The
ratine in cutwork design runs from 81 to
IS a yard, while the plain material costs
from 81 upward. The dress may be car
rfed out in other fabrics. however. with
excellent effect. No. $500 Sizes, IA, 16, Is
and % yeard.
Pictorial Review Pattern.
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-04-09

Pomeroy ton. Ky.-TMs town is The
home of Mir A. J. Hughes whose
condition for five years was such as
led him. as well as most OF his
friends. to believe that he could not
recover
AIr Hughes now says 81 was
down with stomach trouble for FIVE
years. and would have sick headache
SO bad at times. that thought sure
ly ] would die
My condition was such that 1
could NOT eat or sleep tried many
dinereut medicines, but they ala me
no good
Nearly AN my friends thought !
would die, but one OF them advised
me 10 take Thedfords Black
Draught followed his advice with
but little faith
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-04-09

and a plan was suggested by Colonel
Bellinger who professed himself eager
to see that Atlanta merchants were
given the opportunity to compete in
the contracts for supplies given by
the fort.
The members of the committee were
eiated over the suggestion. OF course,
with no troops at the fort, there is
little trading at present. But as soon
as the Seventeenth returns or another
regiment is assigned to take its place,
the usual large demands for supplies
will be resumed.
Colonel Bellinger said it was his
opinion that the supplies could be pur-
chased from Atlanta merchants as
advantageously as through any other
station in any other part of the coun-
try. He impressed the COMMITTEE
members with his evident good will
toward the Atlanta merchants, ana
the impression is that with the re-
turn Of troops to Fort Mcpherson the
Atlanta dealers will have an equal OPP
portunity Of bidding on the contracts
for provisions.
Formal action on Colonel Bellin-
gers suggestion is to be taken at the
meeting of the entire committee to
be called soon by Chairman Fort
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-04-09
POISON
CHARGE PLOT
To ROB HIM

MACON April 9.--John W. Var
brough, dray line proprietor arrest
ed on the charge of assault with in
tent - murder in that he gave a poi
soned banana to Miss Irene Herndon,
i6-year- old daughter of G. w Hern-
don, declares that his arrest is the
result Of 4. plot.
They are trying to keep me from
collecting $1,000 on my house, when
burned down recently" he says
State Fire Inspector W r. Joyner
is here investigating the accusation
that Yarbrough set fire to his house.
previously secreting household goods
which he claims We're burned Miss
Herndon's parents declare that their
daughter discovered the alleged fraud
and TO prevent her from testifying
against him Yarbrough, who board
ed at the Herndon home after his
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-04-09
MEAT SHIPMENT
LAW DEFENDED
BY KENNEDY
Atlanta Health Chief Calls 0rdi-
nance Safeguard, Not Discri-
mination Against Farmers.

Or j. p. Kennedy. city health Of
fcer, had something TO say Thursday
concerning complaints against Allan
ta's slaughter house ordinance by the
Georgia Chamber Of Commerce.
He declared the ordinance, which
prohibits the shipment OF meat into
Atlanta unless inspected by the city
or government, was designed to pro-
tect the public health only and was
not intended TO discriminate against
stock raisers
Before the slaughter house ordi-
nance and meat regulations were
adopted" said Dr. Kennedy, "unscru-
pulous farmers shipped diseased meat
into Atlanta and sold it to unsus-
pecting persons our inspectors re-
ported numerous cases where farmers
butchered sickly hogs and cattle and
disposed Of the meat here.
One fragrant Case Cited.
I'VE have the record Of one case
where a farmer sold the meat Of a
hog that had been afflicted with chol-
era.
THE ordinance does not affect hon
est farmers. II Is the only method BY
which the public can be safeguarded
against such practices as l nave men
TONED
The complaint Of discrimination
was originally made by farmers I'M
districts near Atlanta 1t was taken
mp by r. f. Moody, Of Cuthbert, Ga.
president of the Randolph County
Chamber of Commerce who urged the
State Chamber to make an investiga-
ton. President Haden took the mat
ter before Dr. Kennedy
Inspection Rule Rigid.
The ordinance governing the sale Of
meat in this city rs similar to the
regulations Of the United States pub
tic health and marine service, in that
II requires the stamp of approval re-
nuired by the Government The law
requires the board Of health Of any
city to cause all meat TO be inspected
before it IS placed on sale.
Meat slaughtered outside Of Geor-
Eia can not be shipped in unless in
sealed cars The ordinance further
requires that the seal must be broken
In the presence Of an Inspector
This ordinance does not prevent
producers in this or other counties Of
Georgia from shipping their live stock
or meat therefrom, within the city,
but requires that II shah not be sold
here until inspected
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-04-09
Bankers Of Group 3
To Meet Here Apr, II

Group 8, the largest OF the five
banking groups in the Georgia Bank
ers' Association, win meet in annual
convention April II at the Piedmont
Driving Club About 300 banks will
be represented
The meeting win be featured by an
address on Phases of the Federal
Reserve Act" by A, H. Titus, Of the
National City Bank. New York. J.
W Vaughan, Of Gainesville, viii
speak on Rural Credits
The visitors will be entertained by
the Atlanta Clearing House Associa-
ton at a luncheon at the Piedmont
Driving Club Later they will attend
the Atlanta Nashville baseball game
Carl Il. Lewis vice president of the
Central Bank and Trust COMPANY
Atlanta will be chairman OF the
group meeting.
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-04-09
Beauty Doctor
Tells Secret
Detroit Beauty Doctor Gives Simple
Recipe to Darken Gray Hair and
Promote Its Growth.

Miss Alice Whitney, weIi-known
beauty doctor of Detroit, Mich, re-
Gently gave out the following state
ment: Anyone can prepare a sim
pie mixture at home, at very littls
cost, that will darken gray hair. pro-
mote its growth and make it soft and
glossy. To half pint of water add l
o. of bay rum, a small box of Barbo
Compound and l OF. OF glycerine,
These ingredients can be bought at
any drug store at very little cost. APP
ply to the hair twice week until the
desired shade is obtained. This will
make a gray haired person look TWEEN
ty years younger. 1t is also fine to
promote the growth of the hair, re-
lieve itching and scalp diseases, and
is excellent for dandruff and falling
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS..
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1914-04-09

particularly in the direction Of the
county unit primary recently ordered
by the State Committee.
Mr. Hardwick says: The action
Of the state Committee in providing
a convention plan for the nomination
Of United States Senators from Geor-
gia is both astonishing and indefensi-
Bile TO adopt such a plan not only
violates every precedent of the past,
but IS in nay own judgment, back
ward and reactionary step Of the
most pronounced character. More
than that fl is most unjust to the
people Of Georgia, and in the event Of
a real contest viii, in all probability,
imperil their right to choose their
Senators at the ballot box and trans
fer the real choice to curiously con-
stituted convention, where all sorts
Of log rolling, trading and combining
may hold high carnival"
Former representative J r. Hem
bricks, from Taliaferro County, is a
candidate for state Senator from his
district
When in Atlanta before. Mr. Hen
bricks was mighty popular with the
boys" as ne called them. and it is q
cinch that THE boys" VIII give him a
cordial welcome back to the Legis-
lature, II he gets elected!
lie is reputed to be "A good mixer,
and he certainly was that when in
Atlanta a few years back