davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-04-26
Plain Linen.

DLAIN heavy linen makes very at
tractive table cloths and napkins.
1t is used in restaurant where the
furnishings are all interesting. and it is
used by some fastidious housewives. In
the restaurant referred to it is quite
satisfactory, for the cloth is changed,
naturally, for every diner. But in the or
dinary household it has this one disad-
vantage 1t docs show wrinkles and
spots more quickly than a heavy figured
dan,ask does. So if there Is not a fresh
cloth for every meal, damask may be
better choice.
But the linen is beautiful and in any
Household d it might be used for a spe-
cial dinner set The napkins and table
cloths for every meal-damask-may be
, like the ordinary napkin hem finely done
| by hand. or else they are hemstitched in
an inch-Widc hem
| With the coming of warm weather all
| white frocks always assume an import
ance which they lose in the cold weather
| In warm weather nothing else can really
| equal the ali-white frock for day even
| ing wear. Nothing else looks so cool and
| fresh and inviting. The present fad for
gay 2irdles makes the all-white frock
doublr interesting, fer the brightest sort
1 of Srldlc does not seem earish when 1t ls
worn with such frock, and it adds a
daShing note that the white itself lacks.
| Colored braid is a popular trimming
| in use on many of the spring suits.
| Uusually braid of the color of the suit is
| used but sometimes braid in dark blue
| or black or green is used. Braid SaShes
are one OF the notes for the spring. They
are generally formed of two strips of
braid stitched together lensthwise to
| form a girdle or sash five or six inches
| long They are made of braid woven in
various combinations of deep red, dark
blue and green and black.
| Leather belts used now and again,
| in all seasons, whether they are widely
! used or not And they are always eff
fective. There is something smart about
| them that woven fabrics lack. Probably
with this idea i'll mind. the Paris dress
| makers are using leather trimmings on
many of their new models. Leather waist
coats. leather collars and cuffs, and bands
of leather which are used like braid
or ribbon for trimming, are all shown.
| A suede finish is the most popular.
doeskin gloves show three rows of blacl
OF dark brown stitching on the back
This dark stitching adds a snort feature
to the gloves
The cape seems to be here to remain
for some time. One of its interestin:
1 manifestations is as a separate coat witt
skirt to match. In this guiSe 1t appear
attached to waistcoat that button
\ snugly. Sometimes the cape and vest o
} waistcoat are of the same color and ma
9 terial. and sometimes both colors ant
fabrics contrast.
Evening star., 1914-04-26

EVERYTHING that is charming has
r. been said about Dolly Madison.
She was beautiful
She dressed well.
She dressed inexpensively.
She was an ideal wife.
She was democratic.
She was gracious.
She was a perfect hostess.
She was beloved by the poor and re-
spected by the rich.
And
She was one daughter-in-law in thou
sand.
After Madison's term in the preslden-
tial chair was over he and his wife re-
tired to Montpelier, his old and charming
home, and there lived with them MS
mother, old Mrs. Madison.
From all accounts she was charm
ing woman. But she was woman OF
independent ideas. She did not like mod
ern ideas.
So she lived in a wing of the big house
in the fashion which had prevailed when
she was young There was a garden OF
her own attached to her part OF the
house. This wing was hung with heavy
drapery and furnished with mahogany
which at that time was not in style.
In the other end Of the house lived her
son and daughter-in-law. Their house
was furnished with French furniture
Evening star., 1914-04-26

TT is said now in Paris that light shades
are favored for evening wear. Pale
pink certain shades of corn yellow,
light green and blue are all worn. SLY
blue satin, for instance. is used to de-
velop popular model. Another popu-
lar model is made of rose charmeuse, for
all rose shades are accepted.
1t is season of artificial flowers.
They are widely used on hats. The single
large flower bunch of smaller flowers
at the belt is often seen. Flowers are
garlanded on bodice and skirt Some
times there is a dropping garland of
flowers just below the drawn-up. hustle
like drapery at the back of the skirt,
and sometimes roses outline the decolete
bodice.
Scalloped edges finish many of the new
est taffeta and serge frocks. Many street
suits show skirts with tunics of taffeta
or gabardine finished in deep. round
scallops bound with inch-wide bands of
black MORE silk or satin. House frocks
of taffeta are made with scalloped tunics.
Sometimes a narrow frill of net is fas-
tened along the under edge of the seal
lops.
The sash can be arranged to tie at al
most any point and still be fashionable
sash. One new street suit shows a sash
Evening star., 1914-04-26

sol OF white linen is distinctive when
trimmed with insertions OF macrame lace
banding. and embroidered in color in
daisy stitch and French knots. There is
Il transfer pattern for various sized
daisies
Bordered materials and flouncings are
easily made into a parasol. Batistes,
lawns, cotton voiles and marquisettes are
very dainty. Chiffons and marquisettes
require lining of one or two thick
nesses of mousseline de sole or very sof,
silk If you wish them to be less trans
parent. 1t is good plan to line the very
sheer cotton materials with plain fine
lawn or soft batiste. The border is gen.
orally used at the edge. but if deep il
may be reversed, forming the center.
When putting away delicate parasol
it should never be tightly closed. Leave
it part way open, stun the rib pockets
lightly with crumpled tissue paper. sus-
pending the parasol then in a capaciou.
bag of glazed cambria. Care in this mat.
ter will be amply repaid.
Evening star., 1914-04-26
A LESSON i'm MILLINERY

one spot. but each must gradually fill up
the space around it. until one by one
they close in and form round clump.
Good wiring is necessary in lace bow
making. When wiring lace insertion with
a straight edge. the wire must be s"wlt
on half an inch from the edge with A
buttonhole stitch. When scalloped or
having pointed edge. the wire is sewn
below the scallop at the straight line II
a scallop or point be very deep. and th..
lace very soft, it may be found necessary
to wire around the scallop with still
finer wire. When the insertion is more
than three or four inches wide, third
wire is often sewn along the center
Evening star., 1914-04-26
nARASoLS of the coming season are
as fluffy and deliberately trimmed

nARASOLS of the coming season are
fluffy and elaborately trimmed
as are the frocks and suits. 1t is
a simple matter to embellish a plain
parasol that is faded and slightly worn.
Choose fiowered or figured chiffon for
plain-color silk. and plain-color chiffon
for f1owered or striped silk. Open the
parasol and work from the tip. shirring
the chiffon very tight around it.
Allow very little fullness at the outer
| edge. but draw the chiffon tightly to the
| edge. and baste in place. Then cut off
| the superf1uous material and finish the
edge with strip of chiffon shirred on
| two or three thick cords. Plain black
chiffon over a rose-fowered parasol is
very effective. and a blackschiffon with a
big gray dot covering vivid green para
sol is quite attractive. A remnant of
chiffon sufficient for the purpose may
often be picked up at the bargain counter.
1t is often possible to buy very cheaply
parasols with plain white handles of en-
lameled wood and covered with thin, cheap
Evening star., 1914-04-26
Flowers for Breakfast.

THE early riser might adopt the plan
of Maria Edgeworth, now that Tie
time for blossoms Is at hand.
1t Is said that the famous story writer
used always to get up betimes, even N
her old age. and, when the weather MAS
warm. repair to the garden TO gather
flowers. She would put lovely rose or
a bouquet of little flowers at each plate.
where her family and guests would ind
them when they assembled for break
fast
Evening star., 1914-04-26

one of the best dressed women in Europe
who comes from Canada.
Again the gay crowd assemblies at the
Cafe dc Paris for tea and to watch the
professional dancing. for your smart
European does not dance on the same
floor with professionals when they are
there for the purpose of entertaining.
SO goes the life and gay as it Is, it
Evening star., 1914-04-26
To Renew Jet Trimmings.

WHEN jet trimmings grow dusty or
w yellow and you find 1t impossible
to clean them brush them free from dust.
drop them into black dye and dry the
pieces. This process not only freshens
the thread, but 1t brightens the jet.
Evening star., 1914-04-26

really is quite healthy, for it is always
in the open and the days are filed with
exercise. Possibly the most remarka bic
thing, and this is most un-Americar
statement, is the absence of drinking
that one secs here.
Compared with any American play.
ground, the facts of non-drinking are as.
tonishns. Even the men and women
Evening star., 1914-04-26

smart black coat suit with its white
blouse that rolls outside the coat in a
harng Gladstone collar. Wita her are
her husband. the count. Capt. William
son, who is in everything there. and a
French prince who is often confused by
name with a younger branch of the fam
lily who is over at Cannes playing adj
mirable tennis and keenly watched by
Evening star., 1914-04-26

There Is tendency to drape the
basques OF coats in such a way that they
may droop behind and be caught up into
a bow over the bust. leaving the waist
coat in fun view.
Evening star., 1914-04-26

of it. the sight of a king causes no
thrill. and the fact that a queen is buy
ing a vel! in the same shop IS you are
leaves you cold
After two days of it one comes to the
conclusion that here is the real court
of Europe: that not even the prime min
listers are home TO govern their countries.
Every day YOU can meet the k1ng OF
Sweden coming down the steps of this
favorite hotel, or run across the Queen
of Denmark acting very much like an
ordinary person while she enjoys all the
life Offered to her in this heavenly play
ground of Europe.
There arc 50 many Russian grand
dukes at ones elbow. fgurativeiy speak
ing, that one feels quite familiar at the
end of week with the royal family that
surrounds the czar. And they are made
more familiar by the fact that they are
lunching and dining with Americans one
knows.
One day il will be with Mrs. Craig
Biddle and Mrs. George Lee Thompson,
both Phladelphians who are passing the
spring at Cannes: another day with some
other American at lunch al Gro S.
One hopes to meet the eN-Empress OF
the French near her lovely home at CAP
Martin: one is quite sure that an after
noon with the Wilifamsons of motor-car
fiction fame. in their high-pitched hunsa-
low on the mountains near NICE, VIII pe
delightful.
Celebrities trot so fast upon one anoth-
ers hees-merchant. artist, king and
prince-that if one We're properly thrilled
at the sight of each one the nervous
system would soon give out
One has an idea that all the bril-
liancy of the Riviera centers in Monte
Carlo, which is quite mistake Ihe
number of tourists who pass through this
enchanting pronontory that Juts INTO tne
sea is reckoned in the millions 1t is
useless to say that every person of i'm
portance. and of no Importance. goes
through there and always manages to
eat and to play there
Evening star., 1914-04-26

THE shape of a hat must always be
chosen with regard to the out
. lines of face and head. and also
the form of garment intended to be
worn with it. A hat that will look well
and suit the wearer when dressed in
tailor suit or coat will lose its smart
appearance if worn with a frilled gown.
The reason is that the harmony of pro-
portions has not been kept The next
thing to do is to master the principles
of color, to blend shades and tones per-
fectly.
The tools necessary to the home mill
liner are scissors that are not too long,
with one blade quite pointed and sharp.
straw hat needles of various sizes, wire
nippers for bending and cutting wire,
and a tape measure with the eighths dis
tinctly marked upon it.
When making a straw hat over a shape
the straight edge of the straw should
be wired in length, the first row pinned
to the shape at its edge, and the sue
ceeding rows pinned to the preceding
one until the brim is covered. This is
then carefully removed and sewn firmly,
the outer edge wired. and refitted to the
shape in order that any errors in form
may be remedied.
The crown should be begun at its base,
which Is the headline, the first row pin
ned to shape, the second to the first,
and SO on until the center Of the top
is reached, when the end Is twisted into
the crown.
To make ribbon bow, commence with
v.,s$A rTrlrD
the ribbon in hand, and having decided
upon the length for the first end. pleat
the ribbon at that point in two or three
even pleats, according to width. Have
ready a piece Of fine, strong mounting
wire and placing the end of II within
round them. Next gauge the length re-
quired for the first loop. pleat the ribbon
again evenly at that point, and allowing
the loop to stand in the opposite d.
rection to the end, bring the pleated
portion back to the center, and bind II
tightly in with the mounting wire.
Repeat this until the bow is completed,
finishing with an end which should run
in the opposite direction to the first one.
AS each loop Is fastened. put the forefin-
ger inside and lightly pull 1t to make it
firm. Over the center of the bow, where
all the loops meet, small piece of rib
bon must be stitched. When making a
bow Of soft ribbon, the outstanding loops
of which must be stiffened, a fine wire the
color of the material must be used.
This should be fastened at the edEe of
the ribbon by turning the seivage over
the wire and neatly hemming down with
fine sewing silk the color Of the ribbon.
or by lightly securing the wire UP the
center of the ribbon by tying at the top
and once each side Of the loops. A rib
bon rosette or pompon is made entirely
of loops. no ends being used at ALL These
are made of uniform size and 50 managed
Evening star., 1914-04-26
Special Correspondence of The star.
PARIS. April IS. 1914.


PARIS April 49, 1914
- EYOND the mere business of
clothes the month of April is
rather dismal in Paris for those
who want gayety and new sem
sations There are few Ameri
cans in town. the pieces at the theafer
are not new nor especially brilliant. and
the streets are not crowded with shop
pers
She who is here for the opening in
March and to follow the footsteps of
clothes during the first few weeks after
the formal exhibitions has her hands
ouite full in looking. in analy zine. in
comparing and in passing Judgment on
what is offered.
The mere fact that there are ten great
houses in the dressmaknG business in
Parts. fully a dozen that rank high and
possibly half a dozen that must be look
ed into is interesting in itself: but when
one adds to these dressmaking houses
the openjnss of the milliners and the spe-
clalty houses in wraps. coffures, shoes
and novelties. it is easy TO see that one
has not time to idle.
One has feeling based on experience
that it is wiser to get all the facts con-
cerning these openings well placed in the
mind before the notifications begin. and
before there is a rush of social life that
presents the clothes on the woman and
not in the atelier. There is. you know,
a wide gulf fixed between the two.
1t is like learning the alphabet well,
and then reading. One likes to see, so
TO speak. the letters put into phrases
They become more Ineligible and more
interesting.
One of the essential things to do be-
tween seasons-that is, before the brill
liancy of early May has begun and the
brisk commerce of mid-March sended-
is to drop down overnight to the Ri
viera Here at Cannes, at Cap Martin,
at Nice and at Monte Carlo. one comes
face to face with most of the celebrities
on this side of the water. After week
Evening star., 1914-04-26

At Nice one is in cosmopolitan town
filled with tourists and presenting With
its brilliant streets and its miles of ho-
tells something of the scene of a gisan-
tic exposition: this is especially true dur
Evening star., 1914-04-26

ward of the walking skirt More than
one designsr claims credit for its origin.
but all the dressmakers are now con-
niving at it's popularity
Premet and Callot probably began II.
with the benefit of the doubt going to
Callot. Is il a pretty fashion" VIII il
last? The first answer is no. The second
is yes.
In its exaggerated form il may not 70
main until summer. but there is good
reason back OF its existence and fo, its
popularity. In walking and dancing ti,
hem of the skirt is free Of the heels. ana
no woman need be told the convenience
of this
Evening star., 1914-04-26

Distinctly girlish is this frock of white
net over pink silk with its garniture OF
dainty roses and ribbon. The glriisn
neck line is outlined by a wreath of
these flowers heading a ruffie of the
net. The ribbon g1rdle after being tied
at the back is brought again to the
ruffies. is lied in a bow below the tunic
This tunic consists Of a double puff OF
the net confined by rose garlands to be
freed again below the wreaths in the
form of airy rufl1es.
Evening star., 1914-04-26

The slash AT the back Of the skirt :
not attractive. and in a large meas Il
has been abandoned Il Is no LONG
needed 1t was only placed there 10 =
freedom TO the ankles and this is SUI
piled by the upward tilt in the back
width.
As for the length OF the skirts iisev
were as short in the morning tr.
bodiccs were low in the evening So-0c
of the gowns worn in the afternoon
looked for all the world though tn.
v omen in them had -hitched" them ~,
all around the hips and pinned them
and the fullness al tire too was bunche'i
into irregular puffs. 1t takes little i'm
agination to see the effect.
When Roman stripping was usra on
street costumes the dullest colors er"
used. The Sarish stripes were confined
to collars and cuffs The long arron
tunic was made of gabardine or tafcta.
especially the latter. in dull blue yellow
and brown stripping. over an underskirt
a deepest blue or black.
In the evening great deal of white
was worn but brilliant white. which was
tou ched of with a huge colored rose At
the waist. or was covered with gelatin
seauins. or printed with Vatican de-
signs Flame pink was favorite dinner
gown. and it was usually in taffeta, Or
one OF those soft silks that have taken
this name
Among the lingerie gowns were many
of lace not the patterns We know. but
new ones that have character. Remem-
ber this when you are choosing new
summer frocks
Nord stern. [volume] (La Crosse, Wis.) 1856-1921, 1914-06-19

subrin9sn lit. lber.isB man o.m Gomlte
fir @olier uno JlnauSen 5ut Golun9.
Glib. MobOnRp brnhte cine Belolu'
ton our 8OrIass. oaB Der WOrldIas
oes @rrihten5 eineS paiienoeh Wnrtt'
oebGuoes oui Dem MarttpIabe ourd Die
Staot su S2,1O0 uuteriuht fperoe; bic
Stabt iOn s BrO5snt 3inlen erhaIten.
3ieier BorihIas tuuroe Der 0omttss
fir 8ruuo uno 9ebdube uno 6lnan5sn
lberpielen.
llebermleien puroe nuh Elm Nntrd9
bon benietben Staotueroroneten, oas
81aiter an Main StraBe. Don 8. bis
H.. gu oerbehetn.
Zen Gomltes fir Sroinan5sa. @ilen'
babueu, 9tra6en uno @alien lberpiss
man cine GroinanS bnB S%lraBencors
i'm @ei61ftsOiert:l oer Staot o leoer
StraBentreu5uug an6aIten louen. onltotl
ple blsber crit Die StraBe gu ~tren5en
uno Damn su balten.
Cine OrbtnauS fam sur B0rIa9e
lurnah ote @~intaufS.@ 0mmiliion8'0r
otnan5 10 amenotrt tperoen iou, oaB Der
N~rbeitsratb Nutb0ritdt baben i00. iii
NugebOte anSu5eigsn uno @ontrat.e ill
ltdotlite 9iIIsmitteI 6u per9sben.
l%leberpielen.
8eihI0lien muroe. oaB Ser @sIuno'
beIts'@0mmtiidr oas Ablo9ern BON Ab'
fad am Noroenoe BON GopelanosH arl
ourf unbetannte Rerl0nen unteriude.
fF'ne 3lscuilion iber etnen Nblet'
tun9ssGOntrntt wuroe baIo |beenoigi
ourt ote @rtIGrung pOn gontrOQsur
Jrles. Dab er tejneu NbIeitungS.GOn.
tratt unterjeldneu Deroe. melt fem 8elo
in Dem Jono lei.
l|lebsrluieien muroe elm Nntrog uor
NIo. Bartt fir oGs @1aitsrn Der l6
SraBs Q Waiu gu Yine uno Dor
l8lunebngo gu WtnOilon.
Cine @tuIaou9 CUR 8etbeiIigung al
benz CONFERENCE.-The am "a
SUM i'm Ireien Gart wuroe angenOm.
men.
Cine 8stition 6es ga @roIie 1rnuen
Clubs. benz @OpeIanos4arf msbr Spr9.
fnlt ~ uermenoen, iiberpies man Den
Xart.@omlte uno Der 8att.9 ommlIItou
Nord stern. [volume] (La Crosse, Wis.) 1856-1921, 1914-06-19
Sterni6nuppen.

= Die 3siten beern ii6. Wan
betUmmt oleIes Sabr beim Strphbuts
fauf pisl mebr Strob fir iein @elo.
= rMeine 6rau lit ni6t S~ufrieoen.
bis lie mir ben leBten Gent ab9enoms
men bat" ySie @ludliherl
Mstne 6rau lit lelblt bann nod nl5t
5uirleoen."
sd m6hte meinem Gltten Elm
@eldsnt tnuIsn." - n@a8 lo4 s8 'fiu.
Ma0ame?"-.9n8 wetB i'd ebsn mtt.
@r rauht ni6t. ipieIt ni6t, trtntt n II
9e6t niht SO ie wdr's mi; oles
lem 9tidelitdnoer filrs Saoe5imnrei?"
-y@oSu braudt ma oie?" Sam
Nuibdnsen uon " ahlappsn."
= Sn Der uisrtelidbrIihen Tsriamms
lung Der beutihen euansel,l6en 8es
meinoe am Dienitaa Nbeno muroen 26
6amtlien. Sulammen etipa 100 8srlos
nen, ais @Iisoer aufsenOmmen.
8;nton 8nlib Ntc2ean, @aibin9.
tons WflliOndrbabp, lit ltets BON elmer
@Uuuernantc. S,pei Nmmen, sipei &in'
oermdodsn uno swei 9etettiuen begleis
tet. NrmeS& ino!
az1 Ermmmpno maft cine Spes
5taIttdt aus 9uten unb i6luleri9su 6es
paratureu o ubren. 522 State Str.
Nord stern. [volume] (La Crosse, Wis.) 1856-1921, 1914-06-19
@runoei9entbums= DART.

6olaenoe 8runoeisentbums uebers
~traounsen puroen in ben IeBten 2nsen
uor9enOmmen:
4auru Morton pon Ct. Iaul on y. W gts
len nno SEQ. 6. philips. Selistbum Sues
OFT. gde State uno 2. Str........ $500
8. 8. Noran pom gseii Solem al 5reo Gar.
bers. 8eistbum I'M SiIa9s.... 81 400
Sarru W. Sewett an Sra u. RibnrbiOn.
800 @der 5arm in 3Own Surns $4,000
8. u. Gbaie uno ISM. s. 2iuoemann il. pom
@iroqun an Qarplo Sohnion, Hot IN va
@roile Sl10
8. 8. Moran On 8. 8. guuman. Seisthuin
in gSeft SaIsm 1885
@etrpnina Teterion an SSpbn Sa9eoI, elm
tIeinrs @Isentbam in Conn Sarre....$1
@bware Siidler on Nones Smitb, giaens
tbum in Der Staot Snulasta 49,. 5000
Nn6rew 8en5el an Sphn ghrtltinnipn, gi'
9enlbum III 2uiep's ADDITION 1850
Nord stern. [volume] (La Crosse, Wis.) 1856-1921, 1914-06-19
absangs=Stier.

lie absamss. 5sier Der 5O6Idule
am lebten Gonneritag Nbeno I'M Ga
GrOiie 2beater paritef in re6t eins
orndsuclier @elie. Die 3abl BON l25
8rGeunnten mar bic arDBte. Die uniere
9Odlbule je auIsurpeIien battle.
Ser muiitallte 96eil oes 8ros
Sramms fuuroe in 2Insrtennuns peroie.
member 8siie ourh9eflbrt pom So6s
ihuI'O t6eiter unter 2eituns pom Sri.
Soa Mtac9ean. Dem ssmtihtsn gbor
Der &Ioiie. Sri. Biniirsb Gorbss unb
9arrp WtarIbaa in einem Guett, Glen
pallt auf ieiner BioIine, be9leitet pon
ieinsr S6nsitsr. SRI. 2ois Salit. nui
Dem HIano. einem Streih'G uartett, be.
ltebeno aus Jr!. Dean ROot. Geo.
arsu5, @m. 9omicet uno 8m. StrauB.
Die aIaiie long. pom Srdsitsr bsslei.
let. ben 9riumpbmari6 aus yNioa"
pom Ysr6i.
WSebrere Der @raouanten trusen Nbs
hanOlunsen Dor. 8opmonb @rams
os%mOnltrirte in jntereiianter Belle bic
brubtIOie 9elegrapbie. Sri. gilmore
ShpeiSer belt Die r&aIeOictOrp"'N n'
iprnhe.
Srdiioent Ginning mics in elmer fur.
sen Nnlprahe auf Die Beoeutuns elmer
gnten S6ulbiIoun9 uno oaS munoer'
uole Badstbum Der Ga @rOiisr Sod'
ihule bin. uno pertbellte sum Shluf
ole 9ipIome.
Nord stern. [volume] (La Crosse, Wis.) 1856-1921, 1914-06-19
Sas SeiratbageieB beitebt 81
Re6t.

3as Staats. bergeriht bat 6ns eu.
ssnitIlde Ssiratb2gsise fir uerfaliunsss
maBla erfIdrt. 2as 8eri6t lest in lsls
mem Gntiteio Bar oaB Die Nblidt Der
%2s9islatur tinr lsi. Die llebertraeHns
peneriider &rant5siten Su perhnien,
uno oaB nur Nilnner 0 Dem @elese
bsIroffen werosn. lsi uogitduoig inner.
baIb Der 8oIl5sj9ewatt oss StnateS.
Qas @eieB Tonne alleroinss jtusileitis
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