Evening star., 1914-10-04

= wreath of ostrich in a shade
Of soft blue. At irregular intervals
big silver wheat heads show in the
blue of the feather. The whole effect
Is really surprisingly attractive, yet
simple. and anybody could carry it out
at home with a black velvet hat, an
ostrich wreath and six or eight big
heads Of wheat. Gold heads in a
brown feather would be quite as at
tractive as silver ones in blue.
It is odd how some styles that never
become popular persist for several
years. There is the apron, for in
stance, at the present time Two years
ago we had a glimpse of few import
like real aprons, in the front of the
skirts. And Cheruit's apron tunic last
year was another manifestation of the
same idea. Now behold, there are long
tulle aprons on metallic evening frocks.
Sometimes these aprons are longer
than the foundation of heavy metallic
silk, and they are edged with metal
fringe, with monkey fur or with
flowers.
Wide silk braid is much used in the
French models. Sometimes 1T forms
pockets, sometimes it is used to band
a long tunic, sometimes it is used as a
belt, run through straps OF the 1apric
of the frock it adorns. Needless TO
say, the braid belt is loose and placed
low at the hips.
Braid and fur are Interestingly COM
btned in ornaments for cloth coats;
There are frogs of black braid eogen
with a narrow fringe of soft black 1ur
and. with a fur collar or braid band
ing on the coat, the effect of these
frocks would be very good
The very long sleeve, which is the
accepted one this autumn, is mace 70
At with glove-like tightness from the
waist almost to the floor. That is, II
the sleeve is tight at all, it is really
tight. Some bishop sleeves are useo'
and these, of course, are full ABOVE
narrow waistband-
Trains are used on most of the new
evening gowns. For long time mose
evening gowns. especially on youne
women, have been trainleAf. some, 70
he sure. have had trains But now
noosf nf the new ones have them. With
short skirts, all the way around, the
train gives a rather odd appearance,
for it hangs separately from the waist
over the very short skirt.
Some of the new evening gowns, de-
spite the sleeveless vogue, nave sleeves
pretty little ruffled and puHed aHalrs
of tulie or chiffon or other light and
sauze-iike fabric. They are decidedly
DAINTY. especially on frocks for the
young girl.
Some of the new frocks have very in
+erestine belts, wide ones of satin, COW
cred with soutache braid worked on IN
an intricate, all-covering design Ihe
braid is in dark brown. blue. green vi
black, worked on a light ground.
For young girls corduroy is decidedly
in fashion. 1t is used in brown, piue
and sometimes green. and When II is
made up in a suit with run sklI. xn id atia
long coat it is most appropriate 1of coio
weather.
Silver lace and emerald green velvet
have been combined i'll seVeral u .re
tracted wide attention. One evening
gown is made with much silver lace on
an emerald green foundation and iur-
ther trimming of rhinestohes " aou "
the silvery, light efect.
shirring is one of the best methods
of trimming used this autumn: Heavy
velvet is held in place ny snlrrais ote Ne
fullness answers the twofoid purpose
of trimming and of making the fabric
more wieldy.
There are on the market several fab
RIGS which simulate fur velours 1aprlcs'
most of them. They are used TO trim
coats where fur would otherwise pe
used. But they do not resemble 1ur
closely enough to be mistaken for IT.
evidently there is no effort to do that
They are frankly cloth, with a fur-
like finish.
Much of the new organdy neckwear
is-not all white. There are Roman
striped corners on some of the coliars
and cuffs, of bright, printed colors-
stripes half an inch wide. Then there
is much stripping of black on collars
and vests Of organdie. Some of the
newest things, too, are embroidered In
oriental designs with red and green
and other colors.
Straps are used to restrain the full
ness in many of the new winter coats
and skirts. Sometimes there are two
straps across the back of a coat where
the full skirt flares from the waist sec
ton Sometimes there are straps
across the front of the skirt to hold
nthe fullness below the waist and
sometimes they are used for the same
purpose on the hips. They are stitched,
usually, and give a very smart finish.
Gabardine is still one of the fash
ionable fabrics. 1t has proved almost
as durable, perhaps quite as durable,
as serge. 1t has an attractive finish
and it is soft and supple. So it has
shown itself suitable for the most eX-
acting wear. 1t is a pleasant change
from serge, too, for although serge is
ALWAYS welcome when it is in fashion,
it sometimes grows a bit tiresome.
A blue silk handbag is made with