The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1914-07-11
Beef in Its Own Juices
BY JANE: EDDINGToN.

The more one knows of the dietetic
side OF meat eating. the less likely In
one TO eat meat; yet the great dieti-
tians give both sides OF the question
and tell how and when meat liz good.
as we'll as how and when II is bad.
healthy meat for perfectly healthy
persons is the rule. But how many
peopl. are there of this designation?
After discussing thb digestibeness OF
meats cooked In different ways, Gou-
raud says:
I'm general way all sauces con-
tanning butter or warm fats. all brown
butter sauces and ragouts. etc. arc
bad The white and piquant sauces
also belong TO this category. ON the
other hand, meat cooked in its own
Juice. according TO the custom OF the
olden times tbakcd beef and beef n In
model. are good foods for the stomach
and hySienic In every way II is meat
which has not lost any Of ita nutritive
sally without overstimulating the APP
petite or causing the inconvenience
that follow in the wake OF surfcit"
An ideal menu. according TO this
dietitian. Is one consisting OF baked
beef or beef {; In mode with a garnish
III green vegetables and potatoes or
fRrinaceous preparation. like rice.
These stnrchy things are recon-
mcnded 10 keep those who partake OF
this menu from eating too much bread.
Bread, unless IL is perfect, Is likely
TO aggravate digestive trouble while
we can get much of what II gives us
from plain boiled rice, potato, etc.
Bread proyokes acidity of the stomach
often while potato actually eases an
acid stomach.
To cook beef in its own juices is ex-
acting work, and the old-fashloned ele-
giant beef la mode has degenerated
into pot roast. which is nevertheless
praised beef
The great cook Escoffier gives al
most six great pages to the discus
sion OF ordinary braisings. This is
exclusive OF good number of elab-
crate recipes. and more than another
page on the braisinEs of white meat
All these meats arc the superior cold
meats, because they are highly sea
soned. He introduces the subject as
follows:
"Of all the ordinary culinary opera
tons braisinRs are the most expensive
and the most difficult. Long and as
siduous practice alone can teach the
many difficulties that this mode OF
procedure entails. for II is one which
demands extraordinary care and the
most constant attention"
One of the rules he lays down is
that the ntensil shall be just large
enough to hold the meat four or
five-pound piece, which need not be
from n young beast. but from an ami
y
case of beef, or from one TO two years
in the case of mutton. Women insist
on trying to cook a tiny pot roast in
great kettle. II is great waste.
The best utensil we have is the small
iror Kettle with p heavy iron cover
called n Dutch oven.
Ordinary cooks rarely lard their
meat. but this process both seasons and
protects the meat. Little strips of
Harding bacon. we'll seasoned. keep
ribs or hllet from becoming dry.
If The meat is of decent quality. Meat
from the rump a leg of mutton,
since these must have prolonged cook
ing and are only slightly fat. would
becomes very dry unless larded with
square strips OF bacon, Just as ono
lards the breast Of birds.
When meat is to be finely seasoned
it is malfnated or soaked I'm wine and
other seasonings before ii is cooked.
turned frequently in the liquid. which
Is afterward added to that In which
II Is cooked. Escoffer would have the
meat drained for half an hour in
sieve and then wiped before 1t is put
to cook.
The first process must he that OF
browning 1t all over, or frying Ii in
good fat to close the pores. Then 1t
must he placed on bed OF "aromatics
or base of the braising," which have
also been fried. lSscoffer describes them
ns follows:
These are thickly sliced and fried
carrots and onions. in the proportion
fagot. including one garlic Glove and
one ounce and half of fresh. blanched
bacon rind." They must be fried on
both sides