The gazette-times. [volume] (Heppner, Or.) 1912-1925, 1914-05-07
How To Plant Orchard Trees Told
Conclusion Of Interesting Article by W. Thornber Written
for Newcomer to West
during the first warm days Of spring
they can be properly planted.
Treatment Of the Trees.
Tor Newcomer to West.


they can be properly planted.
Treatment Of the Trees.
Just as soon as the trees are received
from the nursery they should be well
healed-in, in moist soil, even though
they are to be planted within a few
days. Do not stand the trees up in the
original punches and throw loose earth
against them, but cut the bunches open,
spread the trees thinly in trenches ex.
tending east and west that are deep
enough and wide enough to hold the
roots, and lean the tops toward the
south at an angle Of about As degrees.
Thoroughly cover the roots, and from
six to ten inches Of the stems, tramp
the earth firmly around the roots and
the trees will not suffer. In healing.
in large quantities use series Of short
trenches, using the earth from one to
cover the trees Of the preceding row
and let the tops overlap, all leaning in
the same direction.
When ready to plant take the trees
as needed from the pit and never per.
init the roots to become dry, and just
before they are to be planted thor.
oughly prune the roots. All the ragged
or bruised ends should be cut off with
a sharp knife, making the cut in such
a manner that the cut surface viii rest
on the bottom Of the hole. Small or
fibrous roots that may have become
dry should be cut away - they will
never be Of further service to the tree.
Trees with diseased roots should not be
planted but relegated to the brush heap
and burned.
Planting.
The hole must be deep enough to
permit the setting Of the tree from
one to two inches deeper than it grew
in the nursery, in order to allow for
the settling Of the soil and yet have
the trees the same depth as they stood
in the nursery. The roots should not
be bent or crowo,d, but allowed plenty
of room.
After placing the roots firmly on the
bottom Of the hole fill in with good,
rich, loose soil until the roots are well
covered and then tramp the soil Just
as firmly as it is possible. The dryer
the soil the more firmly it should be
packed. Trees should not be planted in
very wet, sticky soil. Fill in with the
remainder Of the soil, until the hole is
almost full and then tramp again; fin.
ally fill in the rest and leave the sur.
face loose. In irrigated sections where
the water is handy the firming may be
done by running water into the hole
after half or two-thirds Of the soil has
been loosely shoveled in.
Varieties.
The following list is made up from
a large number of recommendation BY
growers in all parts Of the state, based
upon the general behavior Of the va.
riety in that particular section, and its
color, quality and value for commercial
purposes.
Western Washington.
winter er)-Northern Spy, Olympia,
Rhode Island Greening, Yellow New
town, Yellow Bellflower. (Autumn)-
King, Gravenstein. (Summer) yellow
Transparent, Red June.
Inland Irrigated Valleys.
(Winter) )-Winesap, Yellow New.
town, Jonathan, Spitzenberg, Rome
Beauty, White Winter Pearmain, Deli
cious, Winter Banana. (Autumn)-
Gravenstein, King. (summer)-Yellow
Transparent, Duchess, William 3 Fa.
vorite.
Inland Uplands.
(Winter)-Rome Beauty, Wagner,
Jonathan, Camp, White Winter Pear.
main, York IN berial. (Autumn)-Kinp
Duchess, Gravenstein, Williams 8 Favor.
ite.
There are many other varieties that
can be grown in all parts Of the state,
some of them equal to or even of bet.
ter quality than those named, but they
are as yet unknown to the market and
for this reason are not safe to plant
commercially.