The Washington herald., 1914-11-01
By MARGARET WADE.

However the fortunes Of war abroat
may effect the heretofore centers o
fashion, the fact that Washington has nj
intention Of donning sackcloth and ashe
is fully appareHt to anyone familiar
with the smart world Of the Capital
Notwithstanding its detractors, usual!
short term visitors without introductions
Washington is as conservative in dres
as in manners, particularly as regards
those maids and matrons whose example
IS best worth following.
Extremes of fashion such as one reads
- of in many large cities, or on the much
advertised Boardwalk at Atlantic City
are unknown on the daily promenade OF
Connecticut avenue-although occasion
ally met in F street. In the latter cast
the wearers are invariably some tran
sient visitors or newly arrived residents
with a mistaken idea that the Capita
City is a place for trying out new theorie:
Of dress as well as of legislation. In past
years the ladies Of the White House have
given clothes an important, but not exag
gerated place in their plan Of life. This
hAs brought about a well-defined scheme
Of dress. that is little less than an un-
written law. To this happy regard fol
time place. and occasion is largely due
the reputation for good dressing which
who know her best. AS some person has
said. dirt is only earth misplaced, so
with clothes, fashions artistic and beauti-
q Iul in themselves. become grotesque or
vulgar, when improperly adopted and
worn out OF harmony with their sur
roundings 1t was her fine sense OF
fitness and attention to detail that made
Mrs. Nicholas Longworth the best-gown-
ed young matron in Washington.
At the present time there is every
reason to believe that the new materials
new colors, and new models all well
worked out in Paris last July, will find a
ready acceptance in Washington. Fully
a score of well-known women did their
shopping abroad last summer, just as in
former years. They did it earlier of
course. as in August several of the Paris
firms transferred their establishments to
London, whence almost every returning
American made some purchases. Fur
thermore all hrst-class American modistes
were supplied with their models for the
fall trade early in the summer--so, for at
least another season. the ideas Of Worth,
of Callot. of the house Of Premet, OF
Nine. Paquin. of DrecolI, and of Beer
will continue to dominate the we'll
Cowned women of the United States,
no matter where their gowns may actu-
ally be made. In the matter Of work.
manship, the American modiste is fast
approaching her French sister as some
Of the smartest of gowns already in
commission show.
So far as Washington is concerned the
conflicting modes have no terrors. for the
fashions of 1914 are established. The buds
and birds have seen to that With we'd
ding dates set for October. trousseauX
must be ready long in advance of fall
openings AS a consequence, many Of
Washingtons smart set. both maids and
matrons are amply provided with up-to-
the-minutc costumes for every occasion,
from football game to a dinner dance.
The bridesmaids gowns worn at Miss
Louise Hellen's wedding yesterday were
models of elegance. showing the very
line POult d sole was the material. onyx
green in color; while the line was what its
originator calls severe.
The round skirts were of the silk
flounCed in three tiers of matching Chif-
fon. These f1ounces practically covered
the skirts from waist to hem. Each
founCe was finished by a five-inch band
Of the silk, which some people might mis- !
take for taffeta. POult d'soie is, however, |
a much finer as well as newer fabric, |
brought out this season; lacking the |
stiffness of its predecessor, the once pop
ular but now passe taffeta.
The bodices were entirely Of the silk |
save for narrow. high outstanding col |
lar in the back which was Of lace en-
broidcred in gold. No costume other than |
A tailored suit is evidently considered |
complete in this year of grace without
some metal embellishments There was
a suggestion Of the old-fashioned surpIice +,
line in the way the silk crossed the shoul-