The Cairo bulletin. (Cairo, Ill.) 1???-1928, 1914-12-10

After q long period of Drectoire
fashions with short wasted bodies
and clnging skirts, a very long waist
ed frock with q sash around the hips
first appeared over year ago in Paris
| 1t was called n Longing or house gown
but It proved so becoming that it be-
came Immediately popular and the
model was modified and reproduced in
afternoon ald evening frocks, which
became the inspiration for the present
| low -sashed basqu3. Among the varia
tons of the style are the chemise froCk
the pinafore frock. the Russian froCk
and others. All demand slender hips,
| a loose wasted corset which does not
| accentuate the curve of the bust and
absolutely fiat lines at front and back
of the figure. With the higher waist
| line, small waists and more curve at
the bust will undoubtedly become the
FASHION, but just at present the long
wasted. low sashed jeune file figure
enjoys great favor.
Sometimes the chemise bodice Ia
belted in and sometimes 1t is not. An
instance of the latter Is shown in
smart trousseau costume modelled on
Prussian design. The bodice of this
frock is OF light-blue nocturne satin,
and the skirt of black and blue striped
pussy willow silk, lifted at the sides
in sort of drapery that flares widely
at the knee. The little chemiseAbodice
Is slashed at the side seams and stops
at the hip. 1t is entirely unbelted and
has long raglan sleeves of the material.
over the shoulders is a band trimming
OF jet, which suggests shoulder straps,
holding up an ordinary chemise.
Another rather extreme costume of
the low belted order Of Viennese origin
La of fine wolfe over daphne silk. The
long wasted bodice blouses over the
skirt almost at the hip and the skirt in
turn blouseS over in Turkish effect at
the ankle, displaying the buttoned
dancing boot quite generously. Such a
costume would be possible only on
very slim figure, for the bloused bodice
and skirt would be fatal to woman of
heavy lines.
a new note in the trimming OF gowns
Is that of the collars-and sometimes
cuffs-of colored velvet which appear
upon gowns. These are Of contrasting
color and are chiefly used to tighten a
dark afternoon gown. When the vel
vet is edged with fur the effect is par
ticularly rich and attractive. These
contrasting velvet collars are of the
roll type. High choker collars are also
edged with fur, but are usually of the
same material as the frock or of the
vestee which relieves IT, Fur edglng is
appearing upon fur fabric. Upon hear
ing of the combination / thought that
the combination of the real and the
imitation would have a cheap" effect
but skillful designers have obtained
clever results with this seasons rich
fur fabrics, so that the difference be-
tween the fabric and the fur is not al
ways obvious and certainly does not
offend ones sense of the correct.
A very odd rainbow felt has an
peared among sports hats. and in the
expensive models Il is quite chic. The
cheaper copies are apt to be somewhat
garish. The felt is gray brown that
one might call a neutral tint. but
through it are Sha9w tints of rainbow
colors that at first are all but imper-
ceptible. The felt is very suitable for
quite young girls.
The set-in sleeves are making in
roads on the popularity of the kimo-
no, Yes. the kimono has he / ny