The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-09
By ZANE BARTON.

of the under arm can be wrinkled This model has but three pieces, the back and two front.
 The kimono sleeve is naturally out of the question and the neat fitting set in sleeve almost invariably comes to the wrist, where it is sometimes plain and stitched, but more often ends in a turned back cuff. I shall tell of two treatments of the sleeve. as 1t may either be att tached to the lining or to the over blouse.
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 So far, the neck is open in shallow V with a fiaring collar. though with.a serge dress the fronts can be buttoned tight to the throat with a military collar. As we are all used to the slightly bare throat I should not advise such a choice for a gown that is to be worn at once. Buttons are sine qua non of the new basque models. Sometimes these but ton through, but more often the basque hooks or fastens with clamps and the q buttons are set on top if of good size, or two rows of smaller ones can be used down each side of the closing.
 The new basque differs from the old one in that there is no elaborate boning. None is used. though the lining often has boned or stiffened girde. It is essential to keep the lines straight.
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 A charming model l saw recently on one of my most up to date married frends-her figure Is superb-win not be difficult to copy by the home dressmak- CT. The frock was of black satin, but could easily be adapted to any of the softer taffetas or silk mixtures.
 The frock was in two pieces, the basque and tunic section being detach- able. For the foundation use a thin white china silk for the blouse. This ends at the normal waistline. Is cut plain with little if any fullness at the waistline. Take care, however, that this lining-does not span over the bust. It is much simpler to have a few gathers at the belt than to be cramped over the chest. The satin skirt is joined to the lining by means of two and half inch boned belt. Turn in the top edge of the skirt, which may have slight full ness or can be laid in tiny plaits occa- sionally, and stitch tight to the lining. close to the edge.
 The skirt is usually two or three piece pattern which may open down the center front if the tunic is closed, other wise at one of the front seams in the three piece model. This Is wise perhaps in any event if you plan remodeling the skirt. The bottom may be hemmed ol faced to the depth of four inches. Sc cure the placket with small clamp fast eners.
 The blouse lining has the long blacl satin sleeves set in them. The arm hol is cut just big enough not to span ans the sleeve which ends at the wrist ma, be a one or two piece pattern set il without fullness. If you wish cuffs mak narrow ones of the white satin abou one and three-fourths inches deep fin ished. Notch the seams to prevent draw ing-also notch the under arm seam of both bodice and lining-and bind wit bias folds of the china silk. Hook dow s the front, which is faced back to tn a depth of an inch on each side.
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 e The neck is cut high to the base of tf y throat in the back and in shallow s front. and to it is Joined any becomin @ shape of t.e new fiaring collars in whi h satin. These are cut of double thc r nesses and the hcning is put in betwe' e the layers. Try on carefully and s' n just where the curve should come. al 1t catstitch the boning to the inner side e the stitches do not show.
 Io From the shoulder seams of the linil
 attach two loost strips of white sat al an inch and q half CT two inches Wi in and long enough to cross on the bust n ss and hook. This makes charming su