New Britain herald., 1914-08-07

1 emphasizes that slenderness partly by fierce of contrast with the pale tones of the gown which carries it and part ly by the treatment of the pelt itself. or the so-called girdle, actually a belt, is never broad and it has a way 1 of clinging to the figure instead of
 standing stiffly away from it. GirdIes Arc Slender. One of the best models launched shows the fur girdle as strip of sa ble two-thirds encircling the waist
 and. two strips of ribbons joining it's ends at the hack and tied half way
 down the hips. About thiss chiffon
 creation the only other touch of sal ble
 outlines the roundabout neck. At is a strong contrast, therefore, te~an af- ternoon gown in white charmeuse whose front opened chiffon tunic car ries a broad ruffle, picot-edged and headed with a strip of sable. This fur length begins under a third narrow band of fur edging a chiffon girdle deeply swathing the
 hips and at front-center running to a
 point against bodice whose long sleeves have fur-edged wrists Pi- quant and chic is it's wired chiffon collar, which, opening a trif1e at the throat after the obligatory present fashion, curls over as it widens about the heck. e.s
 Here the Amateur Fails.
 Just above it's inner side joining with the bodice the collar is touched with points in fur. imagine the de- plorable failure that an amateurs at- tempt to copy this collar would prove!
 With this white chiffon gown or dered for the autumn or little sea- son" at Newport will be worn White velvet toque trimmed with white aigrettes and edged with sable The finest of edges, too, for no one better than the planner of this costume knows when enough of a good thing has been employed
 Ermine, the fur of monarchs trims many white chiffon evening gown and wonderfully chic is the combination. But undeniably ermine is most effective on black. One lovely afternoon gown launched late in the Trouville season carries the narrowest of bands on the edge of it's ; defines the lower limit of it's hip swathing black satin girdle. A third band fiatly outlines the neck of a . tulle bodice and, crossing at the bust, runs into side seams near the waist. \ waist.
 Ermine Adapted to Black.
 Another stunning adaptation of ermine to filmy black occurs in an early autumn evening wrap consist ing of three Chantilly f1ounces, each narrowly Embroidered. The longest. of these f1ounces is turned backward from the fronts-after it has been tackled to the chiffon foundation a few inches above the waist-and, car- ried diagonally over the shoulders, forms second cape gathered under white satin collar, f1atly turned over and extending into sharp points cov- ering the arm-tops. This model is very good indeed when the lace f1ounces are bordered with white satin or black velvet ribbon in lieu of fur edging.
 rics regarded as particularly smart for voluminous long wraps as well as for suits. is exceptionally sumptu- ous in black. Absolutely stunning is an evening cloak in magpie-the black in velours, the white in ermine.. The fur cloak, dropping to the knees in front and almost to the ankles at sides and back, has a scallop- finished edge. A velours shawl collar com ing high against the neck, far over, the arnn-tops and almost, to the waist-line of. the fronts, is as large as many a shoulder cape.
 Correspondingly broad are the bias-cut ruffles applied to the full sleeves just below the elbow, and even wider is the f1ounce set on at hips in front, but 1ow-dropped at the sides. Truly regal wrap, yet withal practical, for the black comes at the neck, the wrists and above the hips. Although sufficiently elaborate for