The Washington times., 1914-01-14
By MARIANNE LIE BRUN.

- ARIS, Jan. H.-The new styles for
- the Southland are the crocuses
in Fashions garden! Now every
day new modes blossom forth in
wintry Paris-but their success cannot
be measured until they reach the
shores Of the Mediterranean.
Nevertheless, the entire movement is
vital, for 1t is the forerunner of summer
modes on both sides of the Atlantic.
This will be music to the ears of the
women who adore the artistic lines in
which Fashion has nodded US OF late
rather straight, with a chic flare at the
hips. OF course. there are numerous
changes in the details of the costume.
For. instance, 1t seems as though the
Japanese collar would replace the frills
that have adorned our necks and that
puffy pannier draperies would develop
into real rival Of the minaret tunic.
The New Materials.
Naturally one turns ones eyes first to
the most luxurious Of materiaIs-silks.
Yes. silks give great promise of being
very prominent But when one sees
what wonderful cotton fabrics have been
created by Rodier and the other ceIe-
oNCu VI HlonCGB IL
seems quite safe to predict that these
materials I'll be conspicuous in the lime
light.
The new cotton materials are so beau
tiful and so different from those OF
heretofore that it seems as though a
fairy had touched the looms with her
magic wand. -a ~ .".. ..f
Rodier's unique material is woven with
a Eauze foundation. which Is closely
striped with cotton velvet to give II the
| effect Of corduroy. This he has called
goifine. / mention its name, for It Is
very likely TO become as great a factor
| in summer suits and coats as has du-
| vetyne at present. Quite the most stun
| nipg effects in this material have white,
natural color or dark grounds, with
| stripes (sometimes checked In bright
| blues, greens, yellows, and the light red
tones-freduently hairlines of black
| edges them.
Rodier has created a similar material
with gauze foundation-woyen IN
broche designs. Although this Is very
good looking, am inclined TO think
that the striped and checked materials
will enjoy the greatest vogue.
or course, cotton ratine has made its
| appearance IN new guises. Yes, in
stripes and checks, but it Is most effec-
tive when woven with perfectly huge
coin dots Of white that look like full
moons, except when they are crossed
with wiggly stripes Of the ground color
The Compose Suit. -:
But. for the coming season it il 70 b,
the opposite of the present mode-,b'
coat is of one of the new striped .,
checked materials. and the skirt is N
be of the plain color. The manufa ctur
ers prepared for this, for thev knau
that only the most eccentric dresser,
| would dare to wear entire suits OF such
vtvidly designed fabrics.
| There are compose suits of one color
but of two different materials. For in.
| stance, a jacket of soft blue golflne will
have a skirt OF silk crepe in the same
| exquisite tone. This mode alone proves
the superior quality Of this new cotton
material, for silk and cotton fabrics are
rarely In the same shades.
The Linen Question.
Although linen is always popular to
| a certain degree, its power is some
| what threatened for this season. This
is especially true so :cr as suits and
! tailored frocks are con cerned, because
the new cotton materials have the cling
! ing quality required oy the new fash
| ions. However, there are some medium
weight linens, woven with dainty motifs
! that initiate drawn work. And. of
! course, handkerchief lineI is always
/ used for some OF the finest lingerie
| dresses. This very sheer linen has been
| dyed in the soft tones Cf blue, rose,
green and mauve, that promise to be as
| popular as white.
Many Of the vOiles are so fine that
one might easily think them to be
null or gRuze-thls Is especially SC
when they are OF cotton-and-silk.
The prettlest vOiles are those printed
in china patterns-not chinese designs
! but the quaint flower designs on French
| and English pOrcelains. These printings
| are in the same subdued COInTs as are
the tlme-mellowed flowers ON the china
| ware from which they have teen copied
Dots and Vine.
Polka dots-large and small-and the
| vine designs which are generally asso.
| ciated with foulard silks are also in
cluded in the collections Of the best
| manufacturers.
Quite the most elaborate voile tha