Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-11

And 1t makes life easier for every one.
There is no sign on the horizon OF a
fitted coat of any kind. but the short
Jacket is pronouncedly loose and shape
less. 1t Is nothing more than a cape with
sleeves in many models.
Look at the one shown in the sketch,
of brown velours de laine. There is not
much shape to that And its novelty lies
In the long piece that tucks itself under
the right arm and fastens beyond the side
seam. You may remember model
earlier in the season that had both of
its fronts crossed. slipped through OPEN
ings at the side seams and fastened at the
back as a belt. The gown emphasizes this
new feature.
There is another model that has the
two fronts diminished to long points
which cross the figure trifle below the
waist line and tie in large fiat bow be-
low the waist. This treatment is also
another evidence of the hustle idea Rest
assured that Premet is not wearied with
that idea yet.
There are many short coats in the ad-
vanced models for spring which Paris
always makes for the Riviera in January
that show again the postalion back.
This is a square tab that hangs below
the waist line as if it was an after
thought The coat shown in the drawing
today does not have this popular feature.
1t curves gently downward toward the
back. and shows a narrow ruffle in the
front, which is attached to the waist
line.
Some there are who might call that ruff
fie by the name of tunic. Possibly the
designer did when she invented 1t.
DroE little accessory, isn't It? 1t tries to
make itself important by being fastened
down with row of extra large buttons.
You will observe them on the side.
The collar and cuffs are of fitch, that
fierce peltry which would frighten a
child. One imaginative woman said that
she wanted to jump on a char and
scream for help when a woman who used
it as a hem on her skirt, came rushing
toward her. 1t looked vicious and alive.
The muff is also trimmed with this fur;
II is Of velvet to match the gown. which.
by the way, is of that new shade of
bronze that the dyers put into the first
duvetyn. 1t is part green, part brown.
and very much bronze. The muff has an
opening on top for a pocketbook. The
whole costume is from Bernard.
The huge muff of velvet has one end
decorated with colored tassels which re-
mind one of the important part these &C
cessories play in the costumery Of women.
Worth exhibited an Indian gown last au-
tumn. which was probably a compliment
to the Americans, and on it was string
of really wonderful Indian beads. The
Americans did not pay particular atten-
ton to it, because their country was full
of such works of primitive art.
But the gown had its weight, and it's
influence on the fashions. Indian beads
of all kinds We're adopted as garniture
and squares of beads We're added to hats
and belts. Now it is the Chinese baubles
that are sought and worn around the
neck, and dangling from the furs. as
shown on this huff.
The Chinese cords and tassels are color
full. and if too many are not worn. the
effect IS good. Many women wear a silk
en- cord around the neck with three beads
and two tassels hanging from it. This
ornament is added to a plain, dark serge
or cloth frock with good effect.