davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
SEASON OF BACKS.

TN the last Few weeks 1t has been not
at all an unusual sight to see the
figures in the windows of the fashion
the streets. And the reason for this
turning about of these mute figures
was that the window diapers had
wisdom to knew that the backs o the
gowns they had to show were much
more worth showing than the fronts,
and that the critical woman shoppers
are much more interested in the backs
Of their gowns this season than in the
fronts.
An evening gown of peacock blue and
silyer-peacoc blue brocade and d.
cloth of silver-recently displayed in
this backward fashion. would have been
a very usual sort of gown from the
front. The graceful draping of the lace,
boEEant yet ilhesoHie arrange M
Of the brocade were details that could
only be seen from the back.
Yet it wasn't so very many years
ago when every well constius "a so ~ -
was entirely a matter of fronts. The
front of the bodice, the front of TIE
skirt and the front of the sleeves pts-
sessed all there was to show about the
gown.
The most one could say about the
back was that it fitted well. Tae same
was true of ones couture in those days.
If it satisfied a front view inspection
one didn't much trouble about the
hack. And now, of course. it is the
back view of the hair, the line that
sweeps from one ear to the other across
the nape of the neck, that determines
the entire couture.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
FASHIONS FROM TOP DOWN

I bright greens a few seasons ago began
with a sparing use in hair ornaments
and on hats, and that jet, which is the
most acceptable ornament of this season
and is seen from the crown of the head
to the slipper buckle. was first introduced
few months ago in the guise of hair
ornaments
This same theory has been expressed
before by those who follow the trend OF
fashions. a prominent dressmaker few
years ago came to the conclusion that the
tendency OF fashion WAS determined more
than anything else by the tendency OF
the headdress. The headdreSs, said this
dressmaker, determines the style of hat
to be worn, and the style of hat de-
termines the style of gown. And styles
in dress cannot change any faster than
the changing style of hair dressing will
permit them.
Surely there is some close relationship
between the mode Of the hair arrange
ment and the prevailing mode Of dress.
1t would be quite impossible to imagine
the hoop skirt and slender waist of 1860
worn with the psyche knot of a few
seasons ago, or to imagine the classic
folds of a Grecian tunic or the empire
styles modelled on the Grecian mode worn
with the high powdered couture of Marie
Antoinette.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
Fur Trimmings.

EUR as trimming is used 10 a great
extent. Some dresses are trimmed
with fur to the knees, TO be worn with
a short fur jacket, shorter in front
than at the hach. i:utu deep and mar
row bands are cr:t 50 that the hairs of
the fur run down, glyins "a fringe suS-
gestion. Fur is used as border to a
.ong tunic of black wolfe. There are
wiue fur belts. SIX inches in length and
placed very low.
A pretty finish to all evening dress
of Wnte tulIe is narrow belt or fur.
1t does not e;luteiy enclrcIe the waist,
but is continued by ribbon enos tied
IN a smart bow at one side Of the back.
The tull skirt Is narrowly edged with
the same fur. Ali coatS and wraps and
some Jackets nave Iur collars. High
chokels $. butn s,Iaisht ana curved, are
new. Inc Sudi5nt ones ale set IN a
v .ue Gree aUuut inc I'M oaI- Inc Snaped
ones are h4gn unutr the ears and close
a oUut the neck.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
Your Christmas Lists.

TT IS never too early to begin Christ
l mas gifts, and indeed the middle of
October is too late to oegin For the
late autumn and winter are busy sea-
sons for most women and those who
have not made some start on Christ
mas gifts before this time will doubt
TESS be rushed in the last few weeks
before Christmas.
OF course. no ones Christmas giving
ought to be so great that it imposes a
tax on her strength or wealth But
there is great difference between Civ
ing expensive gifts to every one one
knows and giving none at all The
woman with time and little money to
spend is really happier for gift Civ
ing to persons of whom she is fond.
SO, before another week is past, get
to work on your Christmas gifts. If
you have already made and bought
some, look them over and make a
note of them. Then make a note of
tn persons you wish to remember and
Just what you wish to give them Each
line you make or buy something, check
1T off and plan to have your whole list
checked off a couple of weeks before
Christmas.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
Hauuso4le Laces.

TN one of the new laces the design
of sprays with trailing flowers is
embroidered first with thin thread on
a fine net foundation and then outlined
with a heavier thread. Among other
fashiona BILE laces is a fine maiine with
an oblong mesh embroidered with large
silver flowers. The new sequin lace
has a net foundati embroidered with
iridescent spangles. The patterns in
clude printed effects made with large
colored flower designs. similar to wall
paper Gold and silver metal faces.
with both dull and brilliant finish, are
very fashionable for evening hats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

/ A PINK chiffon blouse has a high
| ~ lace collar for all the world like
the old-faShioned lace collars that
used to be wired up under our ears and
| fastened with hooks in the back-two de-
cided differences. Instead it is fastened
| in the front and 1t is loose enough to
stand up without VIII es. 1t is edged with
fur and so are the fronts of the pink
chiffon blouse, and the fur is put on
with a band of narrow black silk braid.
It is decidedly smart this use of fur and
braid together.
The skirt scalloped about the edge is
an accepted thing now. and 1t is as at
tractive as it is usual. 1t breaks the
full line about the ankles and makes the
shorter skirt less abrupt in it's ending.
Short eton effects of lace on chiffon
blouses are decidedly becoming The lit
tie Jackets usually fall over a girale OF
some decided shade-orange, green or
bright blue velvet.
| Wide silk braid is noticeable on many
| of the new French importations. Some
times it is used for belts, drawn through
straps of the fabric of the frock, some
! times it is used for patch pockets 1t is
| formed into upst anding collars and deep
cuffs, and it even forms the edge of
tunics and of the foundation skirts be-
meath them
| Black velvet ribbon is Of the minor
features of the autumn fashions. Some
times it is worn about the throat, tied
! in a bow with a long end or loop reach
| ing to be caught in another bow on the
front of the bodice.
| For child there seal muff and
hat sets, trimmed with red or pink roses
one on the hat. one on the muff, both
! bright and cheerful.
| There are many sleeves of white net,
rather full, gathered into a narrow wrist
band, in dark serge and satin bodices.
These give a touch of daintiness that is
essential in woman's dress
| Leaves are twisted, one stem about
another, around the crown Of black
| velvet Spanish sailor hat.
| A childs hat of black velvet has six or
eight strands of white and red beads
| about the crown, finished on one side with
| a red bead rose.
| A velvet hat has about the crown a
band of beaver fur, with three tailored
bows of inch-wide silver ribbon tilted
smartly at the edge of the brim.
| Ostrich is used a trimming On many
of the new blouses. Short iues are used
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
Smart Footwear.

~LOTH or buckskin boots have dark
gray or fawn colored tops. The
gray tops are often used in combinat ton
with dull leather. There is a boot with
a patent leather vamp and lawn
buckskin top, and one with a bronze
kid vamp with bronze suede top. A
black Russian calf vamp has a top OF
gray or snuff colored buckskin. An
other boot has a vamp OF patent colt,
with top of black cravenette. The
same boot may be bought with a vamp
Of gun metal leather
The newest thing in evening slippers
is the spaneled slipper. one OF white
satin is covered with iridescent span
gled net The spangles are very small.
They are seen in green. electric blue or
any shade of satin. and spangles to
match costume.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

bale be demanded to go into the mills.
giving work, where work and money
are frightfully needed; for. mind you,
not all the suffering in this war will
be in Europe. This is the second time
in the half century that the south will
be hit hard by battle.
The campaign for cotton gowns is a
good one and if successful will serve
the country in several ways. There is
little need to tell any woman of the
loneliness of cotton frock or how she
shall make it, especially if that woman
mas spent any time below the ina gin
airy boundary line, in a land where the
trick is turned in graceful manner
Organdie and cotton chiffon and ba-
tlste, point { esprit and footing have
been the staples of the southerners'
wardrobe for more than a century, and
any woman. especially Il debutante,
looks well in them. If they will not
serve for the formal occasions among
women who are turned out smartly in
society. they will serve for the infor-
NAL life of the house during the win
ter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
Variations on the Cape.

A CAPE which fastens either at the
throat or on the shoulders is cut
in circular fashion, so that it falls in
full folds. 1t is worn by young girls
and older women, made of delicate COL
ors for the former and of black satin
with gorgeous Innings for the. latter.
Small capes are often used instead of
scarfs. The so-called cape waistcoat
is really a sleeveless jacket cut rather
full at the base, SO that it may be
drawn up in front. In striped ma
terials these are useful for wearing
when thin blouses are not quite warm
enough. The hem and the armholes
are bordered either with satin or vel
vet. They come well down over the
hips and require no lining.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

"A ueb.tante who wished TO do sone-
tnlng individual should take organdie
ana coiored muslin for her social uni
form. make each gown according to
the best style. vary them as much as
her ingenuity suggests, proclaim her
program. and the result would be that
she would be written down AS one Of
intelligence and originality. and she
would have all the followers that every
debutante Graves. Added to this. she
would he inexpensively dressed, which
is item of more importance this
winter than ii has been in ten years
Are brocades to be reckoned among
the new silks? If so, they would take
a chapter to describe and enthuse over.
Surely the weavers and dyers went
back far in the worlds output of mar
velous fabrics to learn the secret of
the richness, the suppieness, the color
ing the use of bullion that the present
hour brocades show. They are a credit
to the workers of the epoch.
There is brocade that reminds one
of the exotic east, of the temple
dancers. of the girls in the Algerian
cafes. of the bazaars in the camefs
pathway. 1t is transparent, with flow
ers shining the surface done in
satin. in crystals, in bullion.
There are others on supple founda-
ton with a fatty pressed thread of
silver or gold forming q vague design
like a flocked sky. There are brocades
that might serve for museum chair
of Louis MIS- time and Which are spar
ins1y used to bring out the richness or
a thin gown, and there are heavy, bold
brocades that might have been used
Cl,,- IL ifs1 Al a N
woman may wear as d loose flowing
garment banded with deep Russian fur
and girdled with deep-toned crystals.
One naturally associates the idea of
brocade with a POWERED design on a
satin surface, but this season we have
the brocaded velvet, the kind that
costs, and of which the human frame
can stand only a moderate amount.
These, as we'll as some of the satin
ones are made in two-yard lengths,
howing a single pattern: but lovely as
'hcE are. they are snare and a de
1s-'- IN u lands q ne amateur %.
Z -. Oh :, a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
Chic Corsage Bouquets.

THE small boutonniere bouquet 10
still worn at the left side of the
collar, close TO the shoulders, and there
is room for great variety in this dress
detail. To wear with tailored suits.
tiny cyclamens are used. Large lilies
are made of all-black or vivid blue
spangles. Pure white. blue and green
changeable effects and opalescent
shades are favorites of the moment 4
rose of two shades of brownish taffeta
is in vogue Small chiffon roses come
in delightful vatican coloring.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

But such fashions smack of the early
autumn and hold good only in the mod
crate chimes for the winter months.
The style may be a good one for wom-
en- who cannot wear wooden fabrics
October to April. because the climate
does not offer enough cold days to
warrant II.
But what is much smarter than taft
feta is faille, the silk of our grand
mothers. 1t has not only been revived,
but has been accepted without a de-
muir. 1t serves for all kinds of gowns
except those intended for the street,
and one often sees it there under long
top coat. II comes in colors and black
and makes durable and attractive even
ing frocks. Time was when the belle
, of the day did not feel herself properly
fitted out unless she had an amethyst
or pink failie evening frock trimmed
with expensive lace in d weave we
never see now.
one of the dressmakerS started a
fashion for making blocks on the black
fallle with strips of black velvet, and
many dressmakers are now doing this.
Inc shops also sell the fabrics already
arranged in squares. 1t is not atIrac-
tlNe as an entire gown; it must be part
of frock.
For instance, there is a model with
a gathered skirt of the blocked silk and
velvet that just escapes the floor, and
above IT Is 4 short chemlse of black
velvet, the Softest weave that the MILL
ners use. There are long sleeves fit
ting the arms like gloves, and a me-
dieval decolletaSc that shows more of
the shoulders than the chest. Trying,
but ultra fashionable.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
ND you ever notice that fashions

3D. Sss z;sr 's at the '' ssp
question was asked few days
ago by one of the prominent New York
importers who studies the question of
fashions in women's dress in this country
and abroad with the cold, calculating eye
of an expert business man.
Il have often noticed the fact that
any new and daring color scheme starts
in favor at the tip of the hat. Take, for
instance, the combination of purple and
cerise SO much used by the successful
dressmaker this season. 1t began a few
seasons ago with sparing use on the
hat Then it was seen on the coat col
lar, little here and a little there. Then
we saw it used in the girdle. Cerise
and purple combinations in ribbon were
extensively used for girdles last summer.
And now it is here in full favor. Bro
cades showing that combination with the
addition of metallic thread are among the
most highly favored of the season"
Then further to supstantiate his theory
this importer recalled that the vogue for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

to the neck and end in q boned white
ia- collar. are cut away to show a
slice of the shoulders in imitation of
the gowns worn by the ladies when the
'doges were the kings" if it is per-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01
OF Interest TO Women

as fringe to edge flaring collars and
cuffs of organdy or satin or silk. 1t is
a decidedly soft and effective means of
trimming.
Rufus of fur and tulle are among the
new things offered for the contemplation
and envy of smart womanhood. There
is high standing tulle ruching flaring
lar of fur that clasps snugly about the
throat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

missible to quote the august Mr..
Browning in anything so frivolous as
evening gowns, although, if I am not
! mistaken he INDUCED in Il bit of de-
scription of couture himself in the
same poem.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

Lace is a very important factor in
the costume of the day Not only does
II form fiounces and frills entirely COW
ering the bodice and skirt, but it
makes modern or ancient lappets or
tunics.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

There is strong attempt TO make
cotton velvet feature of the winters
fashion because France took it up with
quite a show of vigor. and because the
patriotic American woman knows that
the more cotton fabrics she buys
the sooner will the present supply he
exhausted and the new cotton in the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

Among the other 'old-fashioned silks
which are revived this season are those
striped ones in contrasting colors, such
as pale yellow and bright blue, crimson
and buff. black and white. which we
tumble together in our minds with the
fashions of the directoire and the revo-
luton. Debutantes are wearing these
to afternoon teas as we'll as to dances.
They are often made in pictorial
style. and if a young girl lends herself
well to this style of dress there is a
novelty at her hand. The original
frock Of this kind made this season
had a gathered short skirt of buff and
blue-continental coloring caught up
at one side, and above it a haif-fitting
bodice or bright blue velvet with a
wide decolletage that stretched across
the shoulders and ended in peplum
below the waist with faring tail at
the back.
At the left of the waist there was a
bouquet of lilies of the valley and pink
roses with small white bird holding
! in it's beak a shower OF colored ribbons.
There are widely strirc;; silks in black
! nd white tnct .Te mace ..itc fui' skirts
VITA 1c:.t..S, i.tteu o. locs- .ikc I,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

Buttons correctly used always add
distinction to the street suit. Black
satin buttons. perfectly plain and
round, have lost their place in fashion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-01

their worth and the way to use them.
AS for taffeta, one still sees it. even
though the cold weather is advancing
when the just and the unjust flee from
this stiff cold silk. A few of the i'm
portant gowns have commingling of
gabardine and taffeta, such as a long
tunic of one over a skirt of the other.
and sleeves of one in a blouse or jacket
of the other.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1914-02-17
SUFFS THREATEN
THREE SENATORS
Smith, Chamberlain and Thomas Have
Been Marked for
Defeat.

Philadelphia, Feb. IL. Congress
won't give women the ballot until we
force them TO do it. The Democrats are
in control with slim majority in the
Senate. We are going to defeat Sem
ators Smith of Arizona, Chamberlain Of
Oregon and Thomas of Colorado for re-
election to point the moral that women
have power"
This was the declaration here yester-
day of Mrs. Rheta C.>Dorr, editor of
the Suffragist, which recently criticized
the policy of the National association
of woman suffrage. The three senators
named are the only Democrats who will
come up for reelection this year in the
ten suffrage states where there will be
elections.
Il prefer not to destroy President
Wilson," said Mrs. Dorr. Il like him.
But they won't give us the ballot till
we force them. When we defeat candi-
dates in the suffrage states they will
know the women did it and will take
warning"
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1914-02-17
HoU to Make
Better Cough Syrup than
You Can Bay
Family supply, Saving So
and Fully Guaranteed.

A full pint of cough syrup-as much
as YOU could buy for $2.50--can easily
be made at home. You will find nothing
that takes hold of the ordinary cough
more quickly. usually conquerng it in
side of "a hours. Excellent, too, for
spasmodic Group, whooping cough, bron-
chial asthma and bronchitis.
Mix one pint OF graduated sugar with
u pint of warm water, and stir for 2
minutes. Put 21s ounces of Pinex fifty
cents WORTH in pint bottle, then add
the Sugar Syrup. 1t keeps perfectly.
Take teaspoonful every one, two or
three hours.
This is Just laxative enough to help
relieve a cough. Also stimulates the
appetite, which is usually upset by a
cough. The taste is pleasant.
The effect of pine and sugar syrup on
the inflamed membranes is well known.
Pinex is a most valuable concentrated
compound of Norway white pine extract,
rich in guaiaeol and other natural
healing pine elements. Other prepare
tions win not work in this combination.
This Pinex and Sugar Syrup remedy
has often been initiated, but the old sue
cessful mixture has never been equaled.
1t is now used in more homes than any
other cough remedy.
A guaranty of absolute satisfaction,
or, money promptly refunded goes with
this preparation. Your druggist has
Pinex, or will get il for you. II not,
send to The Pinex Co., TT. Wayne, Ind.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1914-02-17
CONSTIPATION
is DANGEROUS
Pinklets, the New Laxative,
Really Do Correct II.

The sufferer from constipation is dis.
tressed after eating, gas forms on the
stomach, the abdomen has a feeling of
pressure and weight and is hard and dis
tended.
The blood soon absorbs poisons that
should have been expelled and loss of
flesh shows that the body is being poorly
nourished. Headaches become frequent,
the PATIENTS drowsy, irritable and somes
times faint.
Pinklets, the new laxative pills, do not
wear out their effect before accomplish
ing their work OF correcting constipation,
because they do not stimulate the bowels
to over-exertion They assist nature so
gently that the action is regular and
thorough, yet without gripping Pinklets
put the liver, stomach and bowels in har-
molious, perfect working order.
A short trial of Pinklets will convince
you that they are tie ideal laxative.
Every druggist can now supply you With
Pinklets at 20 cents per bottle. Write to
the DR.. Williams Medicine Co., Schen.
ectady, N. Y, for PinkIet book telling
all about thestreatment Of constipation.