davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18
Living Comfortably With Little Space

two windows. interfering with plants
in that vicinity, or else it spoils d cor
ner that could otherwise be converted
into a place of beauty and usefulness.
The question is how to utilize to good
advantage the space which the radiator
occupies? One good way is to place a set
of shelves above the radiator The
bottom shelf should be wider than
the others, projecting out in front a
few inches and heavily reinforced with
asbestos to protect the upper contents
from the heat. Upon the lower shelf
may be placed ornaments, etc, and the
upper shelves could contain books. A
brass rod should be fastened along the
edge of the lower shelf. and on this a
curtain of thin silk may be hung from
small brass rings, which make it pos
sible to slip the curtain aside when
necessary. The thin silk does not keep
in the heat, but it does screen the rad
ator In summer. when the pipes are
cold, a great fern could replace the
curtain in front.
To make the most of the hall bed
room, have a folding bed and cabinet
washstand which, when closed. ma kes
a suitable table A small covered box,
if softly padded, will make a good win
dow seat. besides holding shirt Walsts.
A folding chair may be kept under the
bed to be brought forth as needed "A
heavy board or leaf from an extension
table is handy in a ballroom Puii
out a dresser drawer. place the poaro
on top and you have sewing or writ
ing table without removing everything
from the dresser
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18
do,> a on the arm but it does not affect

do" on the arm, but it does not affect
its movements.
the amateurs are delighted at the re-
appearance of the loose armhole cover
ing. because they can cut many varie-
ties of 1t at home. and that is more than
one could say of the sleeve with the
round. conventional armhole. Every
woman who has experience with clothes
knows that she is against an obstacle
of parts when she comes to the adjust
ment of the sleeve: therefore, she asks
if the bagging kimono will last until
summer The answer is in the stars.
Much interest is shown in London in a
queer kind of jacket which its satirists
have named the monkey coat" The cog
nomen gives many people happiness in
phrasing witticisms, alleged or real.
anent the modern apparel of the strug-
Cling sex.
Passing that by. the fashion is to be
seriously considered because it is likely
to reach these shores at any moment,
possibly before this story goes into print.
SO much happens by the way. between
the. writing of a fashion and its printing
that the task these days is nervebreak-
ing.
This monkey jacket takes its name
from the long tail of material bordered
with fur that drops from the waist to
the ankles of the wearer. One of the
remarkable models is of bright, dark
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

THE day has gone By when a group
of shepherdesses. some short and
plump, some tall and scrawny.
some diminutively dainty and some pos
sessing truly Minerva-like proportions,
would be likely to meet on the floor at
fancy dress dance.
The fancy dress dance holds possibili-
ties for the picturesque that the modern
woman does not ignore. This same mod
ern woman has one objection to make
against the changing fashions in clothes
they fetter and hamper her search for
her the necessity of wearing what every
other woman wears.
To be sure, women today are not bound
slavishly by fashion. They-or else theiI
clever dressmakers-modify the prevail
ing mode in such way as TO preserve
it's essential characteristics and at the
same time to bring out details that give
emphasis to the wearer's best points
But, nevertheless. fashions do impose OBJ
legations that cannot be overlooked, even
by the most fearless of their followers.
1t is this same modern woman who
looks to the fancy dress costume as an
outlet for all-or many Other penu-ul
ideas about herself and the possibilities
of becoming and suitable clothes. She
chooses her dress with due regard to
every point of weakness and every point
of strength which her appearance boasts
She makes veritable study of costume
That is why the modern fancy dress
dance is sight to make the fairies
wonder
;: Z
The illustrations show two costumes
worn at a wonderful dance not long ago
The minaret costume is modification
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18
who object to the weight of long fur

who object to the weight of long fur
coat
The latter is a possession with certain
points of merit, but it cannot give much
service in the moderate American eli
mate. The woman who rides in a motor
at all times should place her money in
a coat that is good but the woman who
depends on public transportation to get
from place to place finds such a garment
a waste of money unless she is unusually
cold blooded and does not mind its
weight.
Women who are interested in the
change of coiffures from year to year
should look we'll into this new one which
has made its appearance on the horizon.
AS yet 1t has not created much of a dis
turbance in America, but there is no
doubt it will do it. We always follow the
styles in coiffures in Paris. with varia-
tons of our own. although it is to our
credit that we have not been as foolish
as they in powdering the locks. There
is no doubt that white hair-not gray
makes the face look younger, and it is
wise dispensation Of nature that gives
us the chance to maintain certain
freshness of youth by softening the hair
as we grow older. Brilliantly colored
locks on a face on which the years have
left lines only accentuate those marks
and deepen the appearance of age.
If women would only understand this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

green velvet bordered with band of
skunk; the tail of cloth and fur is not
attached, but is cut in with the one
piece back width and extends over the
skirt to its hem, and is weighted at the
pointed end.
The skirt is of green broadcloth with
a six-inch band of skunk at the hem. The
bodice is of white chiffon. open at the
neck in a deep V and finished with a
ruffie of lace dipped in tea. This COM
binatior of white and tea color is one
the smart woman delights in.
Other long-tailed coats are of brocade,
with glimpse of bullion in it, and fur.
The new peltry known as Russian chip
munk goes well in this shape. All such
jackets, made of fur, should be unusu-
ally large. The return to slightly fit
ted coat that flares out at or below the
waist line is not to be thought of in this
texture. Some attractive loose, short
wraps are worn in the Russian fur. They
are cut like a cape with bagging sleeves
that seem to be part of the full
ness The well marked stripes of brown
and yellow in Russian chipmunk are
suitable to most faces, and this garment
makes the best kind of wrap for those
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

But back to the manner Of arranging
the couture. The forehead shows for the
first time in many years and the ex-
tremists are uncovering the years bat
only the extremists. The new coiffure
does not cali for so drastic a measure.
There Is not as much hair over the ears
as formerly: there Is no regular tab
which keeps out the cold; but its place
is taken by little curls that hang down
on the cheek The French call these
"accroches occur" which has the same
meaning as our old-time name for them
beau catchers''-even IL trifle more re-
fined.
The trouble in this new couture is the
making of a point with the hair in the
middle of the forehead. Nature has en-
doWed few women with this mark of
beauty, and the semblance Is not easy
to achieve The woman with the high
for no one feature of the new arrange
ment is advisable except the curls over
the temples.
In the evening the long locks are heap
ed in a pyramid on the crown of the
head, but in the morning they are sub
dued into a fiat surface, which is OBJ
tanned in any one of the various ways by
which a woman works out her own colt
fure.
The first time l saw the new style was
at Deauville, in the baccarat rooms OF the
casino. The hair was drawn quite away
from the forehead of a face that was
hypnotic in its charm rather than its
beauty. One would have stared uncon-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18
Contrivances That Solve the Prob
lem.

TRAIN yourself to see the possibili-
ties of the place in which you live
Put up small racks behind doors
and small bookcases, tables and maya
zine racks in corners that are too small
for other furniture. These need not al
ways be used for books and magazines,
but by being curtained off with pretty
silk may be veritable storehouses for all
sorts of things that are usually kept In
drawers or worse still, lie around in dis
order anywhere they may happen to land.
First, let US look at your, closet or
wardrobe space. This is usually given
over to so many different needs that any
arrangement increasing it's capacity is
more than welcome The old-time closet,
large and convenient, with numberless
shelves and hooks, is seldom found in the
modern house or apartment. and in its
place there is a closet of very small d.
mansions.
If you have a closet with some depth
to It, much space may be saved by fas-
tening a pole across the closet and hook
ing hangers upon 1t. A second pole may
be used If the depth permits, but care
must be taken to see that the height Is
sufficient to let the gowns escape the
floor, when the hangers are arranged
closely together upon the pole. According
to some experimenters, barrel hoop ad-
mits of hanging more gowns and really
gives more space than pole. Cover II
with cambria and suspend it from nail
on the under side of the lower shelf by
means OF a strong ribbon. Place on this
hoop hangers containing waists ana
gowns. On the floor below the clothing
there could be placed small shirt waist
box, and above, one or more shelves of
good width.
Now, let US turn to the closet door, for
here is a chance for many contrivances
Laths covered with cretonne and ar
ranged with straps to hold shoes and
slippers should be fastened with brass
hooks and rings to the door and hook
or two added at the side for small ar
ticles. hanging pocket, lined with
rubber for brushes and washcloth, would
be a great comfort to one who Is board
ing and may not leave toilet articles In
the bathroom. A brass rod could be add
ed for towels. Below hang cretonne
bag for wrapping paper and Irvine. Cut
a small hole at one side of the bag and
insert a brass ring, through which the
Irvine may easily pass. A small pair of
scissors should hang out at the other
side. Wide straps of cretonne nailed at
intervals from the floor across one cor
ner of the closet would hold parasols and
umbrellas.
A room containing, a very large closet
has excellent possibilities of economiZing
space, one of which is to transform this
closet into boudoir. Enamel the inside
of the closet white. Buy small chest of
drawers and enamel that white. Drape
the wall of the closet with cretonne.
Hang flat above the chest of drawers
a white framed mirror Hang an electric
bulb from the shelf above. Have a broad
rufiied valance of cretonne around the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

dressmakers alter the original model for
various customers, and while the expert
can recognize the source from which it
sprang, there is enough difference in it
from all the others to give the woman
who owns it a sense of satisfaction: she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

s.5,sssiy a, Il even II the unique couture
'.&f MT compelled attention.
Here the "acc-oches occur was miss
Ing the woman was TOO conscious OF her
arm charm, being a Frenchwoman, to
tide anything so perfect as her ears. On
hsr forehead. plainly marked. were the
Eve points Of beauty over which poets
have dreamed for centuries And she did
not wear hat, omission which means
much in a Parlsienne. The dark locks
were coiled in "A compact mass at the
crown of the small head and neither few
81 nor aigrette spoiled the irreproachable
contour. II was head that will stand IN
the memory long after the other gorgeous
visions OF Deauville in racing season have
faded
Il is a pity that We cannot readily find
another word for the garment we call
sweater, and which the Parisienne calls
a golf jacket. Its origin in the gymna-
sum, for purposes OF health. has been
forgotten, but the name given then clinGs
to it now. To call it knitted Jacket
does not sound pleasant to the ears, for II
suggests bedroom garment. The fash
ionable usage of this covering, which be
gan on the seacoasts of Europe last sum
mer and spread like prairie fire. demands
for il better and a more refined name.
Now is the time to take the garment
into consideration for the outdoor life is
beginning, especially for those in warmer
climates. The new version of II Is in
knitted silk. in bright colors. and SO soft
and supple that it clings to the figure like
the jersey that Lily Langtry made fash
.onabie. The most popular color is vel
low. in the tones known as canary and
Spanish. Turquoise blue has also come
into fashion again in this garment. Bright
R.fnl sata1 hat h.-t11
red known as MARITIME, which is taken
from the process used in the coorirg OF
the crystals sold by the shop of this name
in Paris.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

The new soft taffetas are being shown
in all colors. They have the appearance
of soft satin i'll the way they drape.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

edge of the shelf, cover hat boxes with
wall paper to match the cretonne and
place them upon the shelf. If you do not
care for cretonne hangings. you can east
ly paper the walls of the closet with the
same kind of wall paper as that used on
the hat boxes. 4 mirror. five feet long
and twelve inches wide, may be screwed
onto the door Put three wall pockets of
cretonne on each side of the mirror, in
which to store toilet accessories
A low chair of willow, placed conven-
iently beside the closet door. may be
and you can sit there and dress with
everything in easy reach. This built-in
boudoir would only be possible in room
lighted by electricity. 1t would then be
quite simple to have a connection made
in the closet
Now we will consider the room with
no closet at all. A folding screen comes
first to mind. 1t should be placed either
diagonally across the remotest corner or
parallel with the wall according to the
taste. If you prefer the old-fashioned
hooks screwed into the wall in methodical
rows, it is best to have it placed parallel
with the wall, allowing at least two and a
half feet for walking space. The inside
hooks or angles of the screen would pro-
vide room for hat bags. shoe bags, etc.
With four-panel screen of a little more
than average height one might try diff
ferent plan. Have two or more strong
extension rods placed in each of the two
inner angles quite well toward the top.
These would supply room for at least
twenty coat hangers. Casters could he
fitted into the bases so that the whole
might easily be moved on sweeping day
without raising the rods which keep the
panels in position.
An unused single or double doorway
with draw curtain of rep or tapestry
Will sometimes serve the purpose of
closet. II such a doorway is fairly deep,
measure off it's width on a portiere pole
and have the part fastened into the
casing about two feet from the top. Place
the hangers on this pole.
A wooden bedstead with a high head
piece would enable you to improvise a
wardrobe of another sort Move your
bedstead slightly away from the wall
with the tall headpiece facing a corner.
preferably the corner opposite the door
by which you enter. Use this concealed
corner for hooks and other clothes hang
ing convenfences. The inside of the tall
headpiece might be fitted up with shelves
on brackets, or a hanging cabinet for the
smaller dress accessories.
You may mako a wardrobe by using
eight soap boxes of equal size. The
boxes should be nailed together, stand
ing on end. with the opening facing
front The width of the closet should
be that of two boxes. making the
height that of four. On the right-hand
side knock out the shelves entirely,
to allow for hanging clothes, and put
pole across for skirt hangers or in
sert. hooks. The opposite side may
be used for hats or smaller articles. A
curtain hung in front will keep out the
dust.
The radiator often interferes seri-
ously with the furnishing of a small
room. 1t is sometimes placed between
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

WOMAN A A
EXPENSIVE
SOME
FRONT FREEDOM IT S OF
sEALSKIN TRIMMED A
SHAWL A THE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

cON the IaSnlUllaBIt DtlUS iloCf>
southwark from the north. and for
them are made many new frocks
~ that we look at as indications of
what may be worn. The really
honest dressmakers tell US they have no
way of finding out now what the newest
spring fashions will be, but they are will
lug to make gowns in thin materials that
embody the last features of winter styles.
Such gowns VIII suffice the majority of
women who go south. because they are
az: TO get all the service demanded from
them before there is any call for the new
fashions; and while they are wearing
them the world has no more knowledge
than they have OF what is to come.
In Paris the situation in February will
be different. There the leading dress
makers must supply to the smart world
OF Europa new apparel for the Riviera,
and at the cote d'Azur they launch the
STYLES they will show TO the American
buyers on the 18th of February.
4fcr buyers are already over there
.t-ri ag for something new. When it
appears they will ship a model of it
J. ne. or. if this is not available. they
!i send over pencil sketch to their
cad designer. More new models are
iHunched in millinery than in gowns early
~ the month. but the American sees
many IDEAS worked out in all kinds of
Clothes that are unknown here. This is
especially true in wraps and accessories.
IN footwear and wells in handbags and
parasols.
Here and there one sees an entirely
new bit of drapery: an odd idea in a skirt,
the turn of q sleeve; all these are minor
POINTS to the amateur. but they are major
ones to the man on the watch tower In
each one of these variations from the &C
cepted fashions he sees something of
commercial value. In the finding of these
fantasies he proclaims himself laborer
worthy of his hire. He is of more value
TO his house than if he sat through the
exteustiug hours IN Paris when the
Americans are shown exactly the same
procession of gowns. and it is not possible
to get anything individual.
Just here lies the reason for the uni
formIty of French gowns that are brought
TO America the first of each season. The
well accredited buyers are placed in
rows of chairs in two or three rooms that
open into each other, and before them
passes the panorama of clothes. The
1nannequins swirl and pose and glide to
show off the various merits of the gowns
and each buyer calls to him the girl who
wears garment he likes.
Endless is the repetition of the century
old question: What is the name made
mosille? And she nonchalantly answers
S"yl or Charybdis. as the band of
white cloth on the hem procIaims Down
the line the buyers from each large city
are doing the same thing. Therefore 1t
Is small wonder that each designer con-
fesses after these hectic two weeks are
over that she sold two hundred copies
Of the model to the buyers who have
been sent over by America That 10 univ
YOU see SO many women wearing the
same make Of gown over here when the
season begins.
As the season wears on the American
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

COSTUME
WOMAN
\ PETTICOAT A
FIGURED A sIIIRRED
VELVET RIBBON ADoRN
TENED
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

SLENDER MINART.T FRoCK OF
A CHIFFON FOUNDATION THE
DECORATED WITH BLACK AND
A
SHOULDERS BANDING
ADD PCTUREsoUENEass
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

well and let the hair charge it, on
or in difference to the change in the faee
there would be little 10 ca.i. 81 n =
true that many women help the pra.ess
along when they find The hair tuning
gray by powder or bluing In the vast
ing water or bay rum. The use u TIE
latter by BARRIERS Is what turns the hair
white OF so many men, 50 the experts
claim.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

American Buyers
Now in Paris Seek
ing New Models to
Be Shipped Home
More Ideas in Mil
linery Come to the
Front in February
Reasons Given for
Uniformity of French
Gowns Brought
From the Other
Side.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

- DON the fashionable birds flock
southwark from the north. and for
them are made many new frocks
. that We look at as indications of
what NAV be worn. The really
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

The illustrations show two costumes
worn at wonderful dance not long ago.
The minaret costume is a modification
The daily Alaskan., 1914-04-07

S0th Infantry Lodge, No. 1890. LOYAL ORDER OF MOOSE. Fort Wm. H. Seward, Haines, flask Regular Meetings every Thursday night at 7:3O p. m. All visiting bro Lhers cordially welcomed.
 Any one desiring information about the Lodge will confer 8 favor by addressing
 THE SECRETARY.
The daily Alaskan., 1914-04-07
SPRING CLEANING

The members of the town council passed timely resolution last night requesting property owners of Skagway, although it is a month in advance of that annual event, to clean their premises of all trash and debris that have accumulated through the long winter months and which, under the warm atmos- pheric conditions that now prevail here, are liable to prove a serious menace to health if not al once take care of.
 The early adventurous birds, the position of the sun and a thous- and less obvious but. quite as certain signs of spring are at hand. Spring means, or should mean, house cleaning, and not only house clean ing, but yard cleaning, street and alley cleaning, painting, furbishing; 1t should mean order and harmony and beauty. So clean up and paint up.
 "Oh, yes, whose payin' ye to ad- vertise some feller's palpt?" sneers our omnipresent knocker friend. We might answer that t is none of
The daily Alaskan., 1914-04-07

that no mechanical ri5rce can 6e pro. duced without an expenditure oj en. ergy precisely equivalent. Never for get that there can be no action with out equal reaction and that if the ac- ton takes its origin within the limits of the thing that is acted upon the reaction will also be felt within those same limits.
 Your electric fan would drive a toy vessel placed on the deck of your boat. although 1t would not drive the boat itself. because. with regard to the toy vessel. the breeze from the fan would have an independent origin. like an ordinary wind blowing over a lake and it's reaction would not be upon the toy. but upon the boat over whose deck the toy glided
 If yuu are inside a cur and push upon the car you cannot move it aS you could if you stood upon thu ground outside and pushed. In the first case yOur action and reaction are both upon the car. but in the second ease the action is upon the car and the reaction upon the ground outside The same thing happens if you suspend a mr above yuur head and lift l0urSrr by pulling down on il. and artrrward put the bar under yuur feet and try to lift yourself by pulling up un ir. You succeed in lifting yuur~rtf in tine first case, but you fail in the second. bpcause when the bar is undrr your feet the force of yuur pull reacts upon yuur own body and urges 1t down inst uS much as up.
 There k oue effect of the electric fan which might surprise you it would tend tU drive your boat backward in- stead of forward It would push against air like the propeller of an aeropIane. and to make it drive your boat forward you would have to face the fan uruUnd. SD that it's reaction would he upon the atmosphere behind instead of ahead of the boat. Hnd in either ease your sail would be not only useless but an enrumbrance. Garrett P. SprviSs in New York Journal.