The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-08-16
Deauville- Trouville Casino Dress of
To-day Rarely Lovely Creation.
Change of Outline Obvious

monds, is in me 81 me black tulle as the
dress.
This charming model was worn at
/ the Casino the other evening by Prin-
cesse Jean de Broylie and was uni
versally admired. Prncesse Jean IL
very pretty woman. with a slender fig-
IRE of girlish outlines. She wears her
hair dressed close TO her beautifully
! shaped head and the hat which ac-
companied the dress just described, was
one of the very new models. which
have wlnglike arrangements of lace
| or tulle on the crown. The brlm was
covered with black velvet ana the wings
| were IN black tulle richly embroidered
| with cut jet. A long horse hair mount
sprang from the rent Of the hat and
| little cluster Of blood red roses APP
peared at one side and supplied touch
| OF vivid color. which was an adequate
! finish to an exquisite toilet.
Princesse Radziwill was another OF
the famous Partisan beauties who fitted
through the Casino on the Same night
She was lovely in a gown OF black
| chiffon velvet and chantilly, with
turban composed entirely OF silver gauze
| and trimmed with two high. very thin.
| black ostrich feathers. The feathers
| were caught down with a superb dla-
| mond buckle.
1t is astonishing to md that black
| materials continue an absolute rage
with the smartest Psrisienpes, espe-
cially black chiffon velvet and black
| chantilly ! spoke in a recent article
OF the popularity of black charmeuse
and chiffon, and at the same time I
mentioned that this was a golden year
for those fortunate persons who possess
! fiounces or shawls OF black lace. 1t is
| said in Paris that Il was Mile. Forzanne
who first made black chiffon velvet a
popular material for smart summer
gowns. Certain II is that she frequently
appeared this summer at the Opera and
the Russian ballet gowned in black.
She made a speciality of high black
ostrich feathers as a hair ornament, and
as she has the reputation of being one
OF the best dressed as we'll az one OF
the lovellest women in Paris II is quite
| likely that her example has had much
to do with the present craze for thin
black materials. At Trouville almost
every one has worn white In the Morn
| ing, black and white in the afternoon
| and all black in the evening. Naturally
there have been notable exceptions to
| this rule. but taking a general view of
! the Trouvile season the magpie tints
have had a huge triumph.
The change OF outline becomes more
and more obvious. Skirts have, even
at this early stage OF the proceedings.
| grown vsbly wider al the hem. They
| do not convey crinoline impression,
but they are decidedly FLUFFY. Many OF
| the new lace and chiffon skirts swing
backward and forward like the dresses
| OF skirt dancers. This Is Q charming
fashion and one which I hope will last
| Pretty feet shod in dainty shoes look
| their best when partly hidden by lace
or muslin fiounces.
The ultralong tunic has helped 70
make very long coats popular. These
coats. which ale in themselves SUI
/ fciently important to dominate whole
costume, are certain to become ex-
tremely fashionable.
| Some of the latest models created by
Redfern and Drecoll are exactly like
mans redingote in outline. They mould
| me figure and at the hem they are
ceverly gored 10 give an umbrella ef-
feet Other models are like very long
riding coats-tight fitting also and
double breasted. Such coats are ample
at the hem and are very smart when
made OF bright colored faced cloth and
worn over pleated skirts OF black satin
or taffeta.
Then We have ultralong directoire
coats and others. not quite so long,
which boast Louis XVI. gauntlet cuffs
and wide turnover collars. The winter
season will see the long, almost tight.
coat we'll to the front in the race for
popular favor and such coats will he
fastened with really beautiful and valu-
able buttons.
Redingotes in breitschwanE and as
trakhan are being made by the leading
furrers Of Paris, and the clou of the
fall season will be the long Louis XVI,
coat made OF black velvet and decorated
with enamel buttons trimmed in paste.
This latter style il only suitable for
occasions of weddings, visits,
restaurant teas, &c. There is something
in the outline Of Louis XVI. coat
which makes 1t dressy, even when il Is
made Of plain serge and finished with
braid or Jet buttons. The gauntlet
cuffs and large pocket flaps increase
this effect, and when a large collar
is added the garment comes under the
heading Of "tailleur habille" at once.