Evening star., 1914-04-12

day of hoop skirts, tight waists and other
queer things"
In the same number, however was an
other criticism which. though aimed at
past generation. has come into direct line
with our own styles. The Illustration In
the magazine shows a lady wearing
standing straight up. Under this Is but
the single sarcastic comment that the
deep veil worn by the lady was necessary
to keep the hat on the head!
Ten years later it was the mantilla that
was so popular, so much SO in fact as to
warrant the statement that it was con-
sidered as needful a spring bonnet"
What was then called the mantilia, how
ever, differed widely from the modern in
depreciation of the same word. In those
days it ranged all the way from a regu-
larly constructed coat. the delicate lace
shawl its modern counterpart, to the
lace waist effects so popular today. That
same year one also finds spring bon
nets which stir vague memories. 1t is
because they have somewhat the same
trimming effects as the dainty wat
teau shape of this year which abounds in
under trimming. Ribbon coming close TO
the hair at the back, with flowers at one
side, is similar characteristic of these
Two styles sixty years apart.
What difference a few years makes
even as regards the Interpretation of a
word! In "chitchat" of the spring fash
ions for 1864 Is mention of the ''direc-
toire' body. But it is not the directore
gown as we have ever known it. This
style calls for body that fits the figure
closely at the waist is open in front, with
revers. like a gentleman's vest, and is
fastened at the left side
!. 4
Several similarities exist, however, be-
tween the fashions of that and the pes
ent day. One is the use of the overskirt
in practically the same form as it is used
today. Were the skirt smaller, clinging
to the figure. it might easily pass for a
modern design. Another comparison lies
in the introduction of ribbon bows at the
back of gowns, with the same long ends
used in the dressy spring styles for 1914.
In a coat suit of the same year can be
found the mate to our eton suits of to-
day. Deep at the back, but very much
cut away in front. to allow the double
breasted vest to show, it differs only in
the sleeves, which are too large for mod
ern wear.
In a fashion plate showing April STYLES
in 1874 is bridal costume. Here. too, we
find the overskirt. different from its pred
ecessors. being the style called the polo
naise. Overskirts are "qute the thing"
at this period. Strangely enough they not
only give ample hint of the draped skirts
of today, but also strongly resemble the
skirts worn toward the end OF the sew
enteenth century.
the gown of the bride of the seventies,
and a long curl hangs down her back. If
one can picture this same gown. minus
the fullness of the skirt, it can be brought
into close comparison with some of the
heavily draped overskirt bridal gowns
worn recently.
No less interesting than the styles
themselves of this period some OF
the fashion notes. We of the present
day have SO many shades" to choose
A..
the state of affairs: Positive colors are
more seen than they have been: the clear
grays. browns and blues of former years
are rapidly gaining in favor. Twenty
found in the newly imported silks, from
the darkest hue for suits to the palest
acru tints. Gray has lost none of Its
popularity. for the gray shades far ex-
ceed in number the brown ones. 1t is
said thre are some eighty"
!: !:
In the gowns worn in 1884 one gets the
first hint of the skirt of today in con-
nection with its front drape. Here. all
impression of the hoop skirt has vanish
&c, and while still too large around the
bottom for modern wear. they are never
theless much closer to the present de-
signs Two skirts in particular, typical
of the April STYLES of that year. show
the effects which are being worn this
season. And one skirt, unusually small
has the draped overskirt and large rib
bon bow at the back which, were it not
for the waist, one might be tempted to
think had been misplaced and was really
a 1914 design.
Another interesting fashion of that day
shows yet a different draped effect in
skirts. Modern dressmakers have adopt
ed almost every means in drapng the
skirts of today: buckles buttons, bows
and flowers are all used in his connec-
ton. But here we find the way the