The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-08-23


beaches Is enormous. And yet the one
is quite as fashionable as the other
Trouvlle is ouriously exotic. Biarritz
Is excee dinghy breezy and h, althful. The
same smart women frequent the two
places and yet they seem different.
| have often wondered at this differ
ence Of atmosphere. | have heard people
say that IL is created largely by he
presence Of English women at Biarrltz
but this explanation cannot be accepted.
since there are comparatively few Eng
fish people at Barrtz in August. There
are numbers OF Spanards many French
women, great many wealthy Russians.
AT the casinos the play is provt rba.ly
high. And yet the atmosphere Is curl
ousy beautiful and fresh. At Biarrltz
one seems to taste again the Joys OF
childhood. The sea Is not merely
decorative background for beautiful
toilets nor an effective excuse for the
exhibition Of fantastic bathing costumes.
II is the great, restless marvel of which
in our early youth we never tired.
The gay butterflies Of the fashionable
world seem unconsciuusly to realize the
difference between Trouvilc and Bar
ritz At the latter resort they are quite
as perfectly dressed as they were when
Hitting up and down Les Planchcs,"
but I'm their dresses there is "a subtle dif-
ference. Suddenly they seem to have
become more genuine, more like true
"sportswomen."
There is a touch of manlkc utility
about the pure white linen costumes
worn on The Grandc PLACE in the early
morning The wide brir--ned sailor hats
seem just d trifc more severe and cor
rect. Extremely attractive shoes and
stockings are worn at all hours Of the
day, but they do not verge on what
might be described as fancy. In word
life at Biarri,2 is omincntly sane and
breezy.
1t is also ceaselessly gay and joyous.
Groups of lovely Spanish girls are TO be
seen chatting on all sides; many of
them are closely connected with the
court OF Madrid; for in August and S p
TENDER Biarrtz. like San Sebastian, is
given over TO the dwellers In the land
OF the dons.
| have been very much struck by
the perfection of cut and finish OF the
linen tailored suits which fit past me
in the morning on the beach PLACE.
They rcpresen, Redfern at his b, 81.
Many Of them were made of heavy
variety OF linen which has surface
like fine canvas and nearly all showed
long coats. Some of the coats were
semi-loosc. but others moulded the
figure after the manner of a redingote.
The Louis XIV. and Louis XIV. styles
were very popular and | am quite
convinced that we shall ind them an
absolute rage when the winter models
are exhibited.
a beautiful Spanish woman. the Du
quesa de Arion. wore one OF these Goa,
the other morning. II was made
shell pink linen and finished Wi
mother of pearl buttons trimmed wit.
seed pearls. The coat was worn over
"A plain white muslin skirt and the
blouse was OF the same soft whit
material very simply made and opened
in a deep V at the neck.
THE Duuuesa. who is an intimate
friend of the young Queen OF Spain,
is charming woman with gray blue
eyes and very dark hair. She has
mat white skin and the hat she wore
with the costume just described suited
her TO perfection. 1t was fiat, wide
brimmcd sailor shape made Of black
japanese straw and simply trimmed
with a wide band Of black ottoman
ribbon wound round the low crown. She
had floating veil OF real white lace
thrown back over the brnl.
Mile. de Casteja was walking with
the Duquesa De Arion and she was
dressed from head to foot in pure
white. Her tailored suit in canvas
linen included a short straight skirt
and three quarter length coat OF the
redingote order. This coat had
double row of ivory ball buttons down
the fronts and the sleeves were long
and tight. The coat opened over a
wastcoat made Of embroidered muslin
and the hat was in white chip, with
erect at the left side.
The dresses | have sketched this
week were worn on the terrace Of the
big casino on a recent afternoon. The
costume worn by the sitting figure was
Beer model. The fiounced skirt was
in white Indian muslin and the smart
little coatec in striped ratine showed
lines of mandarin orange and white.
The waistcoat was in black chiffon vel
vet, with ball buttons OF orange colored
horn, and very original bands of back
velvet ribbon were arranged on the
collar and also on the sleeves of the
muslin blouse. 4 big fiat brmmed hat
covered with white charmeuse was
worn with this dress; the trimming
consisted Of fiat bow of black velvet
The standing figure in the group is
wearing a Paquin gown In white Indian
muslin trimmed with bands of skunk.
Here again quaint band Of black
velvet ribbon is introduced under the
high collar and the dress Is finished of
With soft sash of black Chantllly lace.
Nine. Paquin has recently done some
charming things In which flmy muslin,
skunk and black chiffon velvet were
combined She is an artist who thor
oughly understands how to manipulate
such apparently homogeneous materials
as these.
At the casino concerts | have seen
some rarely lovely lace gowns worn by
Spanish women. Chantlly lace Is the
favorte for this use and the Spanlards
are particularly fond OF the combna-
ton OF fine back lace and white or
pale tinted chiffon. For example, a
Drccoll model in desert dawn pink chf-
fon was yelled with black shadow lace
nounCCs
The skirt was distinctly 1883 in out
line; indeed II more than suggested the
crlnoline period II was as picturesque
as possible and was acComDanied nv n