The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-05-17

made the gala race meeting the most
brilliant on record.
From the point OF view of n dress
expert I have found 1t very interesting
to study the unconscious influence the
English Queen has had on the society
women of Paris. That this influence
has been and still Is considerable cannot
be denied; but will II have any lasting
results? In a recent conversation with
Worth I learned that q surprising
number Of orders for gowns OF the royal
! type had been given since the Queens
visit and that some of these orders had
| come from Parisiennes whose names
had long been associated with ultra
smart fashions. This Is interesting, but
OF course 1t is not conclusive.
| Queen Marys style of dressing is
essentially ladylike, even unnecessarily
royal ladylike. and 1t Is difficult to be-
lieve that the smart set will he willing
| to copy II. On the other hand, there Is
another royal parsonage whose taste In
dress Is at the present moment making
itself actively felt in the world of
fashion. this is the Empress Eugene.
We are playing with serious intention
with the fashions OF the Second Empire,
with those picturesque styles which
Winterhalter has depicted with such
exquisite skill, with founced skirts and
flowing scarfs and flower trimmed hats.
We are not looking with favor at crino-
lines, but the fiounced and frlled dresses
which belonged to the crinoline period
are rapidly creeping into favor.
Recently one of tn most beautiful
women in Paris--a woman who but a
little time ago was n famous name
- IL H.. f,.f
gown which had been copied exactly
from dress once worn by the Empress
Engenie. and already this costume has
been photographed and published in a
number OF leading newspapers as a
specimen Of the fashions Of tomorrow.
II was very gracious and lovely robe
black taffeta covered from waist to hem
with fiounces OF black Malines lace.
The little semi-tisht corsage had close
fitting sleeves reaching to the elbows
and there was a quaint muslin collar
which left tho neck and throat bare.
The dress was not worn over hoped
skirt and yet It family suggested n
crinoline of modest dimensions. The
costume was accompanied by q Second
Empire parasol of pagoda form in green
tafreta- The parasol was bordered with
ostrich feather trimming and the long
handle was in Jade and ivory.
Several leading dressmakers insist
that we shall have revival of Second
Empire fashions, and that in the near
future. My personal opinion, founded
on observation, leads me to believe that
the revival OF 1SS0-S2 styles will be
the chief happening OF the autumn sea
son. Even at this moment the "ligne'
of 1880 is very popular with some OF
tho leading elegantes. I shall speak In
detail on this subject next week ant
shall sketch at least one costume of the
period have indicated.
The summer season In Paris is beins
made lively by an insistent battle be
tween the lamp shade and lamp pos
outlines. To onlookers this battle l!
full of interest. and It offers not ltttl'
] amusement. one week II seems a.
though the enthusiastic admirers o
frills and fiounces had won hands down
Tho following week those on the othe
side 'triumphantly launch a model gowI
OF such subtle charm that one Is force'
to pause and admire.
The whole affair Ia droll, but on on
IubJect the contending parties are en-
tirely in accord. The underskirt mus
seem clinglng and skinny whether tn
overdress be arranged In Persian tuni
style or In fiat draperies.
/ have illustrated this war OF mode
this week. on one hand you have tn
very latest lamp post outline, on tn
other an "abat-jour'' gown of fascinat
ing qualities. With regard to the frs
creation want to point out one or tw
important features; first of all tho un
derdress, which Is in reality Turkish
trousers skirt.
The fashion Is being repeated by yer,
important dressmakers with notable in
sistence. This curious garment Is mad
of supple silk and the full trousers ar
banded in at the ankle. over this al
exaggeratedly long Russian blous
tunic Is worn. The blouse IL in III
hand absolutely shapeless that is {
say 1t Is fashioned after the manner o
workman's linen blouse. 1t is mad
OF ultra supple material, such as prlntc
silk Oriental satin. &C.. and at the nee
1t Ii round and decollete. At the was
this strange blouse tunic is banded 4
with a soft sash finished with tassels.
The model shown in my sketch wa
worn at Auteuil on the occasion of tn
race meeting which was attended by tn
King and Queen of England. TIL
wearer was a very beautiful societ
woman and though its curious outlin
attracted a good deal of attention in tn
"pesage" it really could not be called
sensational dress. One had to look har
and long to discover that the under
dress was in Turkish trousers form be
cause the blouse tunic was long enous
almost to reach the ankles.
The material of this tunic was
heavy make OF Chinese crepe in a rlc
shade OF Egyptian blue. The em
broideries on the hem and also on tn
corsage were carried out in floss sill
and fine wool, with tiny porcelain beac
introduced in certain parts of the d,
sign. The Turkish trousers were
black Oriental satin and the pictui
esque sash was In the same material.
tho fine embroideries dull shades
blue, orange red and tete de negre we
cleverly mingled. I saw the wearer
this daring costume leaving the rac'
course and she was then wrapped up
a long military cloak made OF dar
crimson faced cloth lined with print'
MARITIME silk.
do not really think that these Turl
ish trousers skirts will become general
nonular but that they will be worn /