davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-29
MECHANICS LIENS.

MAY 2s
Manhattan.
BROADWAY, cor 9th ~. l00xlo0;
! Mclaughlin Co agt 97th Street and Broad
way Realty Co. owner, Crane Co, contrac-
tor. $3.50 20.
The Bronx.
UNION Av. 100: A Goldner. Inc, ast Anna
McNally. owner; Anna and McNally.
az.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
The Back View

II is pity that women do not generally
realize the possibilities of attraction in
their appearance as seen from the back
How often have you walked behind an
elegant and charming looking woman and
manruvred to catch glimpse of her face
simply because OF the promise OF that
back view?
II isn't given 10 all women to achieve
prettiness from the front, but many a
nlain faced woman can be wonderfully
seductive from an indirect angle well
fitting and neatly fastened gown, belt
Of lust the right width, hair arranged 10
MAX. an harmonious line and hat that
rounds the whole-what attractions can
lie in that combination,
We don't realize how much We are
gazed upon when our faces are turned
another way. In the street, in the res
taurant, in a railway carriage, our fello"
n.n and women are observing every de-
tail OF our personal appearance, ana criti-
cal ewes. which are politely turned away
when we are face 10 face, are searching
out the imperfections OF arrangement OF
AZ that we have neglected. Let US make
a resolution then that we VIII use our
mirrors more 10 study those aspects OF
our person which are more famliiar 10
our friends than TO ourselves.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
COATS ARE FLARED.

Naturally with skirts OF extreme ful-
ness over the hips. a short coat is
necessity. or a long coat, with as much
fare as the skirt. Both OF these styles
are Chic" For warm weather the short
Jacket will undoubtedly be more comfort
able II is cut on the lines OF the Eton
and the bolero and often shows decided
flare. Some Of the newer models accentu-
ate this fare by the addition Of sodet
fource. In front these coats reach just 70
tho waist line or Just over the high girdle,
but in the back they extend TO an average
length Of twenty-siX inches. 1t matters
little whether they hang straight or IN
cutaway lines.I provided that they are
loose and baggy, giving the vague outline
now so chic" An effort is being mane
N nopularize the yoke effects, but on the
ehort Jackets they are not so well nkeo
as on the long or three-quarter garments
The raglan sleeve is often shown as \
co,,nronoise. though IL is doubtful II 1t is
as generally becoming as the kimono.
Tassels are attached at well selected
noints perhaps 10 weight the hood-hke
collar or 10 catch up the draperies OF tne
skirt but even they are used sparihgly'
The only trimmings OF decorative Vaiue
arc the collar and cuffs. The novelty cot
tons in all manner Of bright colorings and
curious patterns, the pretty emoroluereo
h. stistes. MORE, faille and lace appear III
these collars and cuffs. The latest col
lars in tho plain organdie or book musnn
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
PLANNERS AND PAM ERS

When Cheruit first introduced her pam
niers the stout woman. and in fact all
women but those blessed with extreme
hthenese, viewed them with alarm 1hey
could see little of grace or beauty in these
bouffant puffings But Cheruit persisted
in making them and showed such charm
ing notifications that the alarmists were
disarmed. To-day the more practical de-
signers are proving that there are pan
niels and panniers, and that panniers can
be made becoming 10 large women. front
and hack nanel sashes have been used TO
give the necessary long lines 70 stout
fcure and tapering panniers have been
DEVELOPED by punching the drapery up
at the lower edge At a line several inches
below the waist and tapering them 10
polnt AT the centre back nineteen inches
below the waist.
4 still more modified style Of the pan
nier may be achieved by using snort
tunic cut on godet lines with deep ripples
NJ the edge. These tunics are shaped 70
come to point al the hip line. In 1ac''
the hip line is the point OF departure IN
the modern skirt for all draperies are ad-
ius,ed from this line II is the line 70
which the nounced trimmings are at
tached when rufles are used 10 give the
desired broad appearance. 1t does no'
make so much difference how the ooui-
FAINT draperies ~ the hips are produced
so long as they give the necessary broad
eninc effect but despite this extreme fui
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
FLARE AT WAIST AND NECK

Al the waist line the fare shoots iorln'
hpt inward. rather than outward. IN the
form of an outstanding ruche "hl'h
serves as girdle. This arrangement -
bringing hack into favor the high "sls'
line on slight. youthful figures the ruche
10 really becoming. but the large woman
must seek her raised waist line IN o'her
WAYS. The draped girdle is perhaps inc
o,siest and. simplest method OF getting
the desired effect. "a.
,rhe fare Al the neck is. in its way quite
49, ,ro,ounced as at the hips. for the ne"
Collars stick out AT the sides IN eNas-
cerated points. that give HARLEQUIN az.
noarance to the wearer. Still TO cer'a'"
women they do add piquant oasn ''"'
seen,s 70 transform simple niue gov"
into really chic creation. ii one %"
learn the secret OF the fare the co'is'
can he quickly made. and at very s''"''
ovnense. for the majority OF them al
sasn,oned from organize or from pooA
n,nslin q material sufficiently sun u
s,snd ont Of its own accord, and are nm
shed with picot edge. The csche' lies
merely in the fare.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
A FRENCH TOILET WATER.

One may buy toilet water in the same
oddly shaped bottles. The decoration on
these bottles is very similar 10 that on
the bottles Of liquid powder; the seals
are perhaps more ornamental and not
as official looking. On many Of them art
nouveau designs are reproduced In bright
colors.
The favorite toilet water Of the hour
exhales the delicate aroma OF the cycia-
men. but the rose. y-of-the-valley, vio-
let and Jasmine odors are put up in the
same manner. The toilet water is of the
best and the extract used TO perfume II
Of the highest grade, warranting the price
of 81 %.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
White a Favorite
for Southern Wear

Frocks for the Riviera or for Florida
are always a fascinating subject. for in a
land OF sunshine and flowers the attire
can be far more beautiful and delicate in
coloring than is the case when rain. fogs
and generally inclement weather must be
taken into consideration.
White is. OF course, the favorite scheme.
for. indeed, nothing looks prettier, espe-
cially for mornings. than the spotless
white serge tailor-made. white shoes and
stockings and chic little hat, the latter
carried out in black and white for pref
erence. or in some one definite color
The new model coats and skirts now
being shown for this purpose are exceed
ingly charming. very fine serge. flannel
cloth or a new material OF silk and wool
mixture that falls in excellent folds, all
being used with great success.
The majority of the skirts are draped.
while the coats are fairly short, reaching
| to half way down the hip. the latter being
loosely cut with revers and cuffs Of silk
or satin. piped or strapped with con-
trasting color.
White hats are TO be much worn in the
South this season. but where the dead
white so near the face is found 20 be I'M
| becoming band OF black velvet about an
| inch wide is added. that comes right
around the hat next TO the hair-a touch
that in many cases is the greatest inn
provement.
| very soft shade of pearl gray looks
we'll for Southern costumes, especially for
those who find all white too trying A
! gray woollen material of fine texture Is
the most practicable for those purpose AS
lit wears and keeps its shape well and
will not crush easily with constant pack
ing and unpacking-so often the grea'
drawback when soft materials are con-
tinually being taken from place TO place
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
NO MORE sTRAleHT LINES.

There are very few tailored lines IN the
skirt Of the so-called tailored costumes OF
the spring. Straight effects arc no Longer
desirable: the more one can break up the
lines the better. There arc various meth
DDS Of accomplishing this. Perhaps the
simplest is the TERED skirt Of tNo. three
and even four founces BY adding 4
straight panel in the front and IN the
hack the short woman inclined toward
enbonpoint will find her skirt more he
coming. The same woman will Ike the
tunics Of her other skirts better if she
hangs them with points al the sides or
drapes them 20 fall lower at one side.
As long as the bouffsnt drapery at the
nips is the ideal Of the hour the pes-top
skirts are sure 70 retain their popularity.
In fact the fulness at the sides has been
materially increased. and IN the more eX-
IRENE models is arranged TO hang IN
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

For the next few weeks the real issnio"
certres will lie at the winter resorts alohs
the Riviera and in Egypt, and IN this
country at Palm Beach and the fashion
able resorts below the Mason and DIXON
line. To these resorts-partlcularly 10 '"e
foreign ones-the couturiers are sendlhs
their first spring models. Here the moueT
are being made for the next SIX nohths'
Designers can actually try out cer'si"
IDEAS before weaving them into the cos
tunes they are preparing for the autnoIl-
tative spring openings TO take place III
rebruarv. What the woman of social po-
sition accepts will be pushed Tor sprihs
what she rejects will be discarded OF OF
fered in different form. From TINS pre-
liminary skirmish the designers gieSh
hos, ~ ideas Hence, IL is well Woi III
while to study the straws which are "hlri
ing around in the air above the winter
/ resorts
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
FOR Pertaining THE ROOM.

A dainty woman revels in sweet odors-
not overpowering scents. but delicate
fragrance. OF the many ways OF perfum-
ing a room, one of the most satisfactory
and simplest is achieved by the use of an
Egvrtian pottery urn. The jar has a
pretty, pebby surface done in tones OF
brown which harmonize with any color
scheme There is set OF double caps
which are tied TO the body OF the jar
With ribbon in soft. old rose tint. Vari-
Gus sachet powders are used in the Jars
though the favorite sandalwood seems to
sell the best. II has a pungent persist
ent scent that makes it excellent for this
purpose. the distant slight fragrance
which escapes into the air being appeal
ing even to women who ordinarily find II
too strong.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
COLORED POWDERS.

The curiously tinted powders nave
proved so popular that they are now be-
ing sold in the liquid form. Since col
ored wigs and dyed furs have been ac-
cepted. why not variously colored COM
plexions?" Thus does Paris argue. ana
forthwith sends over to this country
liquid powders in six shades. There Is
powder particularly for brunettes' an
other for blondes. mauve tint that Is
especially effective under the glare Of the
electric light. and a pale green that seems
10 harmonic well with the green wigs.
The bottles containing the powders are
more curious than the contents. They
are very tall and oddly shaped, made from
heavy-frosted glass, and are ornamented
with imposing looking ribbon bands ana
decorative seals. An excellent grade OF
the liquid powder is used, and bottle
sells for 80 %.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
COSTUME MUST FLARE.

The most striking characteristic OF 'Ve
coming costume is the fare. ones cos
rune must fare at the hips. at the waist
and al the neck. II is the haie VIC"
counts this season. At the feet the ma
terial Of the gown still sinks close 10 'hc
ankles. though the trouser drapeiieS
threaten TO bring about additional iu'hesS
hollow az well as above the hip line
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

brighter shades Of blue are busting the
oldtime favorite. navy blue. ana the
dressy silk costumes are being developed
in Natter Eco and sapphire Even the
tango. 4 reddish yellow shade, is not con-
sidered too brilliant a color in taffeta
roSfuns
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

And as If to cap the tout ensempie'
the hat flares in both outline ana uiH-
ming. Even the flower trimmings are
arranged to shoot high at the SIDE while
feather fantasies seek prodigious helghts'
And If nothing else flares, the brim is sure
10 do so. Is there not truth therefore IN
the statement that in the fare lies the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

The names 81 shops where articles men
TONED under this head were seen can be oo-
tanned by sending Il stamped and addressed
envelope TO seen in tho shops, New YORK
Tribune. To insure a prompt reply the date
Of publication should be given.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

trouser fashion. If not in actual Turkish
trousers This idea has been developed
IN the skirts which show the side drapery
in preference 10 the front or back variety
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
Fl ARE. CHARACTERIZES NEW SlYLEo

a taffeta foundation. Others, in the pa
coda shape. are developed in the pompa-
dour and lowered taffeta and are edged
with marabou
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
POWDERS AND PERFUMES

are two kinds of scissors, the file, emery
files, scraper and cleaner. all in IVORY ana
on the other side Of the case the polisnef'
nail brush and paste jars. The comfort
that can be derived from one of these
cases pays many times for the $40 asked
10, 10
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

ness from the waist TO the hips the skirt
around the feet must be as narrow as
during the past seasons.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
RIPPlES AT THE HEM.

Here too. the flare is very pronounced
p.ven the short ones display it. for though
the Jacket may not extend below the waist
inc II will swing out from the nsurs
toward the back. while the back panel VIII
break forth into ripples II the coat eN-
tends below the waist lire nine OUT Oh
Ton times a sodet nounce will be added
while on the long garments two ana even
three codet LOUNGES or ruches accentuate
the flare.
This barking back to the ceremohious
DAYS of the Regency has brought INTO
vogue some delightfully."- picturesque IDEAS
ror instance. in Nice the heralds OF iash-
ion are carrying white eramelled canes
others are wearing the white Wigs or are
Wondering their hair. The more cohserN-
a,ive members OF the smart set are con-
tentinc their love OF the picturesque Win
Quaint Vatican hats. These hats are
,,orr timed up in the back or tilted over
one ave and are invariably trimmed with
nowers. in faithful reproduction OF the
| paintings. , -
The parasols of this early season are
novel in shape. one. known as the Nina
70, Is very much pulled. Fashioned from
nigh, colored tulle. 1t ruffies In tiers over
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
DEsB0NNET INSTITUTE

ladies' best method for reducing, correct
nhysicsi defects az private. select institute
p. W. e5th st Director Nine. Portugal, Of Paris
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

, which flare very much at the side. are
calling forth much admiration, for II the
collar does not roll, as the japanese type
does, il must fare.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
SEVERE
| SUITS IS PAST
INES of Figured Silks and
'nh.r Elaborate Materials
r Be Worn This
soring-No More
Straight Lines.

,,e severe taillcurS Of other
i- their places are drcssy
...- SAVIOR more 81 the dress
~, thaa tho tailor's. It is by
-, cut 70 the skirt the fare Of
Y. ..e material and the color that
eject is obtained. rather than
~, trimmings. for. with the OK
- fancy cuffs and collar. very
-~~.nc IS used.
the uc. wei cut strictly
81. will h. worn. especially on
.ftbc Atlantic. for the American
very rs-ua. 90 this type Of cos
-ss very generally becoming 10
rs American dcurc. I'm fact.
nan tho ussicr. DRESSER tyne OF
~ sartaIs 90 the Psrisienne.
.r .,0f ra worn as extensively as
~- otr- .t did duty from early
,-m me ueht~ were Ill., Even
r,, SUE 60 VIII have a serious
81, DRESSER t-ne ~ costume.
sgANp FOR SILK SUITS.
-,,i cloths sre made so very soft
-. these days that they can be
I ,ss rufed and punched up as
f.. ne s-aer fabrics. The vogue
..sy tailored creations, however
-. about demand for silk
Il - for the so-caned tailored cos
TsNsu moIre. the dull faced
hle crepe Ie chine. crepe meteor
n ~ this lis are being used for
-.-,i4ce costumes and the skirt and
Irfs Though extremely soft. the
A .nrs. OF tsfcta promise O. give
/ sr.cs than the sitter varieties.
- vss sweet music IN the ears
n. -,sAioraty' ambitious in bygone
4 sns Of the better weaves Of these
$50 On not look like taffeta at
- resemble a lustreless satin with
s,rs.ke lno Others are very
v.eht end though known under
-,s-e title Of chiffon taffets." they
- softe- and finer than the weaves
i - -soosrized under This name.
sspy. WEAVES IN DEMAND.
sstss creepy wcaves are very much
-,,s With crere de chine and crepe
-,s ne favortes. Equally popular
KIN ueaves. the fanles. bengalines
res Of This type. And though
thought of ass q winter material.
The light weight viii be very
-.e nore effect is also produced
~zr o. The satin weaves, and has
= % mace Of the matelasse designs OF
~-g More and crepe dc chine are
s ccmblned In the same costume,
u c-eoy GOODS used in the skirt and
Bin the sal.y little Jacket.
a. the dres-y effect OF the silk
rasadd the "dress-up' touch OF
g costume bids fair 10 deserve the
g ssni-taiIored. regardless Of It's
4 .osbiodly the sll-black and all
ss.-mes VIII be the most popular
s-sr because they are always good
and enjoy the paradoxical posi-
BENZ drsssy and vet plain. and
-r because they are the develop
30 fad started this winter among
rsry dressed women. The new
p lrt sure o. be- well liked, and u
yssn SUIT s Considered too strik-
gay be combined with gray. Ths
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25

Years ago the dainty little ladies'
plucked rose leaves and lavender, and
when they were dried mixed them Win
sweet smelling sachets. To-day the par
fumeurs perform this pleasant task, ana
from the petals of various fragrant dos
SONS they evolve a pot-pourri that at
tracts both sense of sight as well as
sense Of smell a little of this delicious
mixture sprinkled among the linen anu
lingerie will give to them delicate odor
And the sheer muslin bags filled with the
pot-pourri are decorative, too, for the
vari-colored flowers produce pleasing
, color combination. BY buying large jar
Of the pot-pourri and making the bags
one may have many of them Tor tne
reasonable price of 81 80 asked for the
large glass bottles.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
FOR THE TRAVELLER.

The woman who is seeking Southern
climes should remember that well
groomed hands are obligatory, and tnae
in the large hostleries, where hundreds
OF women are congregated, it is often
dificult undertaking to procure the ser
vices of a skilled manicurist II is always
the visest plan TO he provided against
difficult situation of this kind, ana 10
have at hand the necessary implements
for treating the nails.
All OF the essentials can he slowed
auav in a neat English pigskin case.
which will take very little room In tne
travelling bag or trunk. On the ootton
Of the case. slipped through leather loops
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
EVEN THE HAT FLARES.

ODD little coats are attracting no emu
Of attention There are two distinct types
in these top coats. as they might be caiieu
IN distinguish them from the suit jacket
the very short. impertinent little jackets
and the three-quarter voluminous gar
ments which take on the pumnss anu
ruchincs Of the days OF the Regency
Some Of the former type are niue inore
than sleeveless boleros. while the o'hei
envelop the entire dress Inc ma'o'i'S
are developed in taffeta and In the sweet
pea colorings Later in the season. When
they are being made for the pracucai
women who desire TO wear them over
gowns Of various hues. they will be iash-
toned from black or white taffeta, but az
the nresent the women with carte oiAhcht
incomes are wearing them. and they are
rejecting every tint of the rainoo"-iash'
IONS rainbow, not natures.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-25
a NEW BATH SALT.

Bath salts long ago lost their novelty,
but their charm has rather increased
since the manufacturers have been aple
to produce a really good article for rea-
sonabe price OF all the odors thrown
out by these salts, none is more gener-
ally popular than the violet. Yet true
violet odor is one Of the hardest to pro-
cure. particularly in bath salt. ms
subtle. appealing fragrance has been capt
ured. however by one Of the leading par
fumeurs and he is using II for his new
bath salts. Though the first impression
is that the salts are rather too strongly
perfumed. this is an advantage, rather
than 4 mistake. for the fragrance quickly
disspates into the air.
The soft green of the violet leaf has
been reproduced in the color OF the salts
and the violet and green color scheme
has been employed on the label OF the
glass bottle A good sized bottle, one
standing about six inches in height can
be bought for IS cents, and one containing
more than twice the quantity for 81 80.
New Britain herald., 1914-07-20
Iy7i1ufson JetOelrY Fashionable

.TEWELRY is enjoying tremendous vogue this season. all sorts of neck laces. rings and brooches, in imitation and real gems. being worn by smart women. Indeed, one does not need to possess an immense fortune nowadays in order to wear jewels, for so many excellent limitations are made that few can tell the difference between the real thing and the paste. In fact, many wo- men who can well afford the real thing prefer to wear the imitation, except on special occasions, thus lessening the danger of losing small fortune should the gem become mislaid.
 Following in the trail of the vogue for paste jewelry comes the rage of bead necklaces, all sorts of beads, from colored glass to fairly valuable stones, being brought to service. They are a chic little accessory of modern dress. adding a brilliant touch of color either to day or evening costume.
 Women have gone back to wearing of more rings. just as they have re- turned to the necklace, the brooch and other articles of jewelry out of fashion for a time. The latest ring to meet with the approval of women is the ex- banding design. with a small watch in the place of the usual gem. the watch being no bigger than penny. These watches keep time like their bigger relatives. and some are surrounded by diamonds, others with pearls, the basis being of platinum.
New Britain herald., 1914-07-20
Mint Sherbet.


 PRUISE in a saucepan two large
 punches of mint, add two cupfuls of sugar and one pint of water. Boil until it becomes sirup. Strain through a cloth while hot. then cool. Add the juice of one orange. one lemon, one pound of sugar and one pint of water. Turn freezer rapidly and stead fly until the mixture is pretty hard. Then remove dasher, beat white of egg to stiff froth. add one tablespoonful of powdered sugar. beat till it will stand alone. Stir this into the sherbet, heat we'll. cover and stand away to ripen.
 If the egg is omitted you will have a mint ice instead of a sherbet. But there is a difference in the freezing which must be done more gradually Turn the crank very slowly for a few minutes. then rest for five minutes. turn slowly again and rest until the water ice is frozen pretty hard Wa ter ice takes longer to freeze than ice cream. When you can turn no longer take out the dasher, scrape down the sides of the can and give the the mix ture a thorough beating with the pad dle: then repack, cover and set Away two or three hours to ripen. Thts will serve six or eight and is delicious. .--4.