The Washington herald., 1914-04-09
HOME DRESSMAKING

~11e formal tea gown ano the long neg
l.ece have as important q place In the
nr,Sal r-ousseau as do the more pre-
tentf5as gowns Tho informal and rest
I'm gowns OF the ooudoir are as much
of a necessity 70 the bride Us her street
or eyenine dresses. The, d-essy tea gown
\. far sear about the ooudoir during the
honrs sstxecn Ianchcon ara dinner, when
one wants perfecty conso-t and relaxation,
vet wissc- to be in readiness to receive
fhe chance caller WHO may stop for a
chct and a cup Of tea This nesiisee
should be designed so that the corset
may Sc laid aside. yet Il must haye sufii-
tiens appearance OF formality not to
SAVIOR Of the useful klnono. This semi
! formal gown Is BY no means intended for
di,ner wear, 4 use 20 which some women
mistakenly put it.
FIe,h-eolorcd Crepe ana shadow
rhs Tea gown selected for this trous-
rran was Of hesh-colored crepe, the
boIica ycsied IN shadow lace. This de-
esv,, Is given preference ever many others
,,s-s,,aa Of its simplicity, and the sac-
ccss with which it could be adapted to
she rncorseted figure. The color scheme
~ ,hIs neg!igee may be changed, IL for
80 reason the bride-to-be has another
preference. Taffeta or charmsuse SILK
nav be SUBSTITUTED for crepe, and other
Li,d ~ lace for the shadow lace. Crepe
,-as giyen preference when planning the
trousseau because e is soft and einging,
and also because 1t is comparatively IN
experaive.
49, ,erIIrecs that the bride has an op-
-,o,,unsty to crafty her feminine love OF
ha-r,in hunting If she will give the
ti-ne to shopping around, she is sure TO
0nd a short end of some lovely material
81 price far below what the same goods
nol,ld cost II bought by the yard from
she regular counter. 1t will take 10 COM
pIete the negIiges about four ana nan
yards of fortystwo-inch goods. me-
aualfty of crepe de chine IN that Wio'h
mas be had for 81 yard. A yard ana
haif Of aIloyer lace q inches wloe
rr5II he needed for the waist drapery.
nice quality Of shadow lace may oe mao
IN this width at SIS yard Two SIX
tassels will also be needed for trimming
the lace over the waist
Enrtest Way to Make Tea Gown.
Now we will talk Of the easiest and
most satisfactory way to make tnls Yea
GOWN. II the wearer is inclined 10 De
stout a fitted lining should be USED.
These innings can be bought ready 10
use, and save considerable time IN the
making of the garment. They are or
dered BY the waist measure which meas
ure must be taken after the corsets are
removed. When they are tried on. II any
adjustment is necessary it is made from
the waist up. taking in, or letting out,
as the case may be, the under arm ana
shoulder seams When this lining is used
the outer garment is tackled to II at the
waist line, instead of using belt The
and N1UnfC FfNd
with hooks and eyes. When ordering for
this negl;gee it should be stated that the
closing is at the front.
The lining adjusted one can proceed
with the making of the negligee. III
a lining is not to be used, then a belt
of silk is pinned loosely around the
waist and skirt draped. 4 fitted short
skirt of batiste is made and extends
tC a few inches above the knees. This
: is used as foundation on which the
Gr.rpery- is tackled, and it is sewed to
the belt at the waist line. The lower
u 1pf the skirt is then made from
We piece Of the silk draped with
- n in a way that it is brought in
4 at the feet. The upper edge is
1fMIE from the lower edge of the lining
skirt. The puffed drapery Of the skirt
is made from a width and a half of
the goods which must be cut sufficiently
long to allow for drapery. 1t is shirred
at the waist line and gathered at the
lower edge. At the bottom the goods
are caught up and tackled to the lining
SO as TO form a pretty puff.
The blouse is cut from a plain kimono
pattern and closes at the front. The
sleeves of the waist come to the edge
of those OF the lace over the jacket,
but are not tackled to them. The waist
Is tackled to the lining or the belt at the
waist line, and is allowed to blouse con.
siderably. The over-waist, or jacket.
Of lace is also cut from a kimono waist
pattern. The lace should be shaped at
the front as shown by the drawing
when on the figure. The standing lace
collar is of the Jacket material, shaped
10 point at the front and wired at
the back to keep it in position. The
Jacket and blouse are caught together at