The Washington herald., 1914-03-15
BY ,rAReARKr WADE.

When In doubt buy hat, Is practica
advice to nIne out Of every ten womei
at this season when even the tenth long
to indulge in spring finery. For the hun
dredth woman whose taste and banl
account are practically unrestricted on,
might say buy hats, half a dozen a
least. being needed TO begin the season
for the ultrafashionable maid or ma
tron. There is an infinite variety Of
smart millinery already on view in Wash.
ington which in recent years has ad'
vanced TO such a high place in the shop
ping world that it is no longer con.
sidered necessary to- so to New York
for ones best clothes.
Furs and velvets, rough cloth tailored
suits, and rubber, sandals continue in
commission notwithstanding the date We
read on the calendar, but the woman
who has spent more than one winter In
Washington knows this Is q city of sud-
den changes. and March Is. a date which
spring fashions must be given due con-
sideration, however discouraging the
Weather Bureau may be-
Not only the elements but the import
ers. designers, and retailers as well, have
contributed to the uncertainty of this
seasons modes There are styles for
everybody, but unfortunately everybody
does not give the careful consideration
t. the purchase Of a wardrobe thst the
designers give to its creation. There will
be no excuse for had dressing in the conf
ing season, for score Of really great
artists have designed the suits, frocks.
separate skirts, wraps, and blouses that
viii clothe the well-dressed American
woman for the next six months at least
The prcverbial i'll wind that blows n"
good is at the present time benefting
the millinery trade, however detrimental
to ladies' tailors and the mantua makers.
Many a serge and poplin fur-trimmed
suit will do duty for spring with the fu-
removed plus the already mentioned
straw hat. while some well known women
are already walking abroad with straw
hats :opping velvet visiting toilets and
carrying nuns as well.
While some people profess to believe
there is still large element or doubt
regarding the width Of a skirt or At of
jacket the real students of fashion know
that there Is no radical change in street
gowns except to make the one-time
severe tailored suit more femeninge. while
for evening gowns there Is a decided
pannier tendency, a return Of bouffant
drapery in the back, a train for the
womsn who likes q train, and a round
skirt for the one who does not, one of
these fashions being just as well spon-
sored as the other. One universal feature
in the dozen different designers of the
first rank is the complete absence of
sleeves. A strand Of beads or whisp of
tGlie doing duty in this particular.
What may safely be accepted as the
Paris idea Of the tailored suit in these
spring days is shown by the young
Countess de Bertier de Sauvigny, who
has just arrived from her native land
to join her husband, the military at
tache of the French Embassy. This
representative of present-day Paris
and its social world is extremely mod
crn in her style of dress, as she at
tended an IL o'clock church service
last Sunday in q gown of pronounced
color. The material probably
was gabardine. q new name for the
fine wool that succeeds valour dlaine
or duvetyne. The skirt is narrow as
any grown woman's skirt could well
be and slashed very slightly at either |
side of the front The overdress is |
a modified Russian blouse, with smooth !
fitting top and sleeves that Mt closely |
from the elbow midway to the wrists. |
rhe narrow waistcoat is white satin. |
striped in mustard. the belt of the |
;ame cloth of the suit, but held by a |
ieavy gold-colored and enamel clasp /
IT buckle. The smart hat topping this