The Washington herald., 1914-06-07

shape so unusual that our grandmothers
would call it a bonnet. The latter was
blue chip, matching the coat and skirt
in color. with its trimming large white
roses and many yards Of blue satin rib
bon. the latter allowed to form streamers
to fall far below the waistline in the
back.
The vogue of the all-silk gown con-
tinues in all fashionable localities, and
finds increasing favor with women OF
every age. Not only is taffeta In de-
mand for every hour of day or night,
but foulard Is also showing itself in ex-
tremely good company.
Mrs. Julian James, who Is one OF the
comparatively few nonofficiaI hostesses
remaining in Washington was a notably
distinguished figure at St Johns last Sun
day in an ideal summer gown for city
wear. This was a high luster black
foulard with polka dot Of white The
dots. while not close, were rather large
possibly the size of a dime. and silver
white. The skirt was round and to the
ground. The overdress was on the Rus
sian tunic order with skirt laid in well
defined pleats from the waistline
Mrs. James wore a medium-sized ALL
black hat, with white lace waistcoat, and
long white gloves. giving the Magpie
finish to a toilet that looked cool even
at midday. and despite its dark hue.
An all-white taffeta for afternoon wear
Is one Of the smart gowns of the season
as noticed on Mrs. Ross Thompson at
a recent reception. This is a French
gown Of a lusterless silk not yet retailed
on this side of the Atlantic. and likely
to be extremely fashionable next winter.
Mrs. Thompson's skirt is made with
slight train and covered from belt to
hem in gathered founces. each with
scalloped edge. The top is a semi-jacke
bodice over a fiat chimesette of net. An
all-white hat with its trimming delicate
ostrich plumage completes the very
smart costume.
Mrs. Henry Breckenridge. wife of the
Assistant Secretary of War, is one of
the wise young matrons OF the official
circle providing herself with warm
weather wardrobe for a Washington sum-
mer. Mrs. Breckenridge looks very smart
as we'll as comfortable at luncheon or
tea at the Chevy Chase Club, in a two
piece gown of ecru batiste embroidered
in white. The skirt is narrow-as skirts
are ever supposed to be-and the over
dress a long Russian tunic. The skirt
Of the overdress as well as revers and
is lightly applied. but in strong relief
Mrs. Breckenridge wears with this a
wide-rimmed low-crowned hat trimmed
in black velvet ribbon. i
The Misses Sheridan, twin daughters Of
the late Gen. Sheridan, are wearing suits
exactly alike in white and yellow eponse,
which show just how smart. and at the
same time, how comfortable a light
weight tailored suit may be. The skirts
are the TERED variety in three sections,
Of Norfolk and Russian
blouse. with extremely high waistline
and two-inch belt in the back. They are
untrimmed, except for large. round but
tons and a turn-back collar Of the eponge
showing dainty handmade blouses
There is frequently a difference in hats
worn by the Misses Sheridan with these
suits. Miss Irene Sheridan inclines to a
small white Panama trimmed in white
wings, while her sister wears a sailor
shape Of Milan in natural color with its
trimming a wreath Of dull-pink roses |
Both styles are in perfect harmony with
the suits, an important consideration in
dress, for nothing is worse in its effect
than a hat that does not suit the gown. |
Washington would seem to have estab-
lished a complete Independence on the
subject of hats. From Paris. where the |
season is now at its height. with many
Americans participating, come repeated |
that small hats are more pop |
ular than ever. that all hats must shine |
like highly polished metal. and that the |
toaue Is once more the favorite shape. |
Yet in Washington few of the new hats |
are in this style, to the great disappoint-
ment be It said of many importers who |
do not know the ways Of Washington |
maids and matrons.
Here. and now. the prime favorite with |
the leaders Of fashion is undoubtedly the
sailor in some form. Not the severe man
ish block sailor with its plain band. or
the schoolgirl hat in softer lines. but /
sailor all the same, with some slight mod
lhcation in crown or brim and vide lat
itude in trimming.
Mrs. Peter Goelet Gerry, tall enough