davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26
Fine Odors as Beautifully Cased as Jewels.

venirs of perfume. on opening days.
One of the pictures shows some SOU
venirs of this kind from the house
of Poiret, each little bottle of costly
perfume standing beside the artistic
box It was presented in.
Another picture shows a small bot
tie of cyclamen, Sc powerful-and 50
costly-that it Is used drop by drop:
the special dropper being shown be-
side the bottle. At the right is a de-
liclous perfume called "L'Heure
Bleue.' which comes in a blue and
white box decorated to initiate Wedg-
wood china In another picture are
shown small. gracefully shaped bot
ties of perfume with accompanying
boxes of colored orocc leather
handsome enough to be used as jewel
cases. Some of the most delightful
perfumes are nSmed after great act
resses or singers and a famous Mary
Garden extract and one called Ger
aldine Farrar, are pictured in the
lower row.
Toilet waters and cologne waters
are used for the bath and the woman
who, when tired, bodily and mentally,
has not experienced the ~revivifying
luxury of a warm bath dashed with
violet or some other perfumed toilet
water should try this luxury without
delay.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

will also go into milady's books. Her
notepaper Will be delicatsly-rery
deiicately-scented also; and all the
linens that are used in her bed and
bathroom should be kept in special
lin~en-drawers with perfumed pads.
Then will an exquisite. elusive frag-
rence attend milady wherever she
goes, and every belonging of hers will
subtiy suggest her presence, even
though she herself be not present.
But-and 1t is q very big "but'-the
perfume in the various bags, pads.
garment hangers, books and writing
desk will have to be renewed at least
once a fortnight. n woe be to mi
lady If she increases the proportion
Of sachet; for speedily may her pres
ence become. if not offensive. at least
annoying to fastid1ous friends.
The very latest perfume fads are
pictured, most of these extracts and
essence having come from Paris.
The oouturiere-or at least some OF
them-have q graceful custom of pre-
senting to favored patrons dainty sou
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26
Tresses Must Nop Match the Costume

YIN the window of every ha1rdresser
who makes any claim TO authori-
J tative colffure modes is now dis
played a beautifully dressed head of
the new colored hair. This does not
mean ordinary blonde, brunette or
Titan hair, but hair in vivid green,
temperamental purple, fashionable
peacock blue or the ultra smart
pressed grape shade which is deep
red with a catawba tone. Artih-
cially colored hair is the dernier cri
and though as yet, In America, it has
not made a public appearance outside
of the hairdresser's window, it Is ac-
tually being worn In Paris and in
London. At a very smart dinner party
in London asst month. given by a we'll
known society beauty In honor of a
debutante of the season. twenty-five
women out of the forty present wore
hair to match-or to sharply contrast
With-their costumes. The term
wore hair Is we'll chosen, for of
course these startling tresses were in
the form of wigs or "transforma-
tons and woman has not yet come
to dyeing her tresses peacock blue
or catawba-rose. The latter shade is
usually affected with gowns of white
satin, and pearls, in their milky white
ness help TO throw into striking relief
the head-dress of flaming hair. odd
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26
H3|NUze% T0~Me


~HERE is no more convincing ex-
Al preston of personality tina
IA perfume. One judges a woman's
VXp temperament by the perfume
she selects to be her own; n her
taste by the amount Of 1t she employs
in her environment and upon her per-
son. The costliest perfumes, sparing-
ly used produce a much more agree
able because impalpable fragrance,
than quantities of cheaper scent, and
If one decides to go in for an indi-
vidual perfume, one should count the
cost we'll, for this particular fad Is an
expensive one.
There are four perfumes which rise
and fall in popular esteem. partly by
reason of excess Of advertising given
to one or the other and partly be-
cause Of the human craving for
change. The four perfumes are: rose,
violet, lily-of-the-valley and hello
trope. OF these four, rose and hello
trope are the heaviest scents and vio-
let the most delicate. A most subtle
and delightful sachet is made by mix
ing violet and orris powder half and
half; but the violet must be of the
best grade for this perfume, espe-
cially in the cheaper grades, Is evan
escent. No oma who uses violet
and orrls as her expression of per-
sonality will ever be too heavily
scented for the taste OF those about
her; but this cannot be said of rose
or heliotrope, for these perfumes, if
used to excess, are positively repel-
liant to some people, and 1t is danger
ously easy to use too much. The per-
fume user naturally becomes accus-
toned to the fragrance pervading her
environment and after a bit, like the
opium eater, she must use a little
more and still a little more. to be
conscious Of any effect at all upon her.
self. The woman who selects a per-
fume and determines to use 1t indeh-
nitely should be very careful about
this matter Of increasing its use. At
the beginning m knows precisely how
much extract M sachet gives the
fragrance she desires, and even
though she, herself. after a bit. is not
conscious of the odor, she should stick
to her original amount or almost GER
tainly she will fall into the error of
OVERRIDING.
What must one do 'to possess a
~pervasive fragrance which will al
ways suggest ones personality to the
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

which falls below The tunic lis
weighted. the sash really keeps the
back of the costume fat.
Another instance of n frilly frock
that maintains pleasingly straight
lines is shown In a model of indie
structible wolfe in a soft Wedgwood
blue tone. This Wedgwood blue model
has an accordion pleated skirt, con-
fined about the ankles under a box-
pleated rufile of ribbon in the same
shade. Similar ribbon ruffies edge
the sleeve. over this plisse and ruff
fled skirt which is really slender and
narrow in effect, falls a tunic Of the
blue wolfe embroidered with white
arabesQues in fiat Chinese effect. The
tunic IS frankly frilled but a sash.
weighted with steel beads maintains
the flat line at the front and at the
back, the ends of the blue MORE sash
are Weighted also. Around the V of
the decolletage is a plisse frill of
gray tulle and the wired collar Is of
lace. This lovely blue frock is ac-
companied by a black hat, a black
sunshade with a band of white and
blue brocaded silk and black buttoned
boots. The bag is of blu suede with
steel bead embroidery.
Coat Dresses For The Street,
Silken frocks for spring and sum-
mer, if not frankly intended for dane
ing. simulate Jacket effects-for street
wear. A particularly chic c~oat-dress
OF mandarin silk is pictured. Bodice
and tunic are given the effect of a
continuous garment by an odd, cuta-
way bolero Jacket which has enormous
armholes n crosses at the waistline
in cutaway coat effect. A kohinoor
snap fastener holds this utawa
jacket In position. and it may be dis
carded when desired, leaving a pretty
fyock girdled by a draped MORE sash.
When this metamorphosis is effected
the long sleeves may also be turned
into shorter ones. for the fitted cuffs
also are attached under the frilled up
per sleeves by a series of small snap
buttons which may easily be unfas-
tened. With this attractive little
coat-dress for the street goes a jaunty
hat of white hemp and MORE silk,
with a pink rose perched above the
left ear.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

pale blue, white or pink for the frocks
and blouses, but for the wraps they
should be Of darker silk matching the
lining. INC they may be fastened In
side the sleeve 30 that they do not
show when the wrap is removed.
AS the perfume must be frequently
renewed. since Its delicate fragrance
soon e~vaporates or fades, It is rather
troublesome to rip out and sew up
again all these little bags. If each
tiny receptacle, when first made. ts
closed with a snap-fastener, the bag
may be opened In a fifty, the folded
over cotton Slipped out and freshly
perfumed cotton tucked in again. The
perfume bags may also be attached
to wraps. blouses and other garments
with snap-fasteners so hat it is easy
to remove them when refilling is
necessary. Lingerie garments and
small belongings will be sufficiently
perfumed by lying in dresser drawers
furnished with perfumed pads as
above described. These pads also may
be closed along one end with the in
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

valuable snap-fasteners.
So much for mihady's garments;
but other things must be perfumed.
too. if her elected odor is to express
herself. Her hair. for one thing. must
always possess an elusive fragrance.
This may be secured by the wearing
Of a perfumed nightcap; or a morn
ing cap lined with a perfumed pad
n worn during the morning hours.
After the shampoo, as soon as the hair
is dried thoroughly. the perfumed cap
should be donned and worn for sew
eral hours. Perfumed book marks
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

friend or acquaintance who picks up
ones belongings! In the first place.
every dresser drawer. every garment
hanger in the wardrobe, every sepa-
rate bodice, coat. negligee and bit of
lingerie, must have its delicate per-
fume. In the bottom of dresser draw
ers may be laid fiat pads of thin silk
or silkolene containing two layers Of
sheet wadding between which Is
s%prinkled the sachet selected. The gar
ment hangers should be covered with
sachet-sprinkled cotton and then with
shirred ribbon: and dozens of tiny
silk bags, square,, round or heart
shaped, and made of silk or ribbon
will perfume the frocks, bodices and
wraps. These little bags may be of
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26
SEPARATE SKIRTS NOW OF SILK.

~ HE separate skirt that accom-
panies odd blouses, is now of
w silken stuff instead of the sturdy
serge or mohair hat used to be con-
sidered the separate skirt standby;
and the modern separate skirt is Il
gay affair of draperies and rufied
tunics, with a sash Topped ooquettish-
ly at the back. Such skirts, made of
cantor crepe. Egyptian crepe. striped
surah. taffeta, MORE taffeta and pop
lin sell for from ten TO twenty-five
dollars in smart shops. The cheaper
models are really impractical because
OF the inferior quality Of silk. A skirt
of this sort In mind at the moment, Is
of black pussy willow taffeta with two
ruffles midway of its length and a
rather high girdle finished with a bow
at the back of the waistline.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

~ ~ - pfE'o
tunic. The shop-windows are
poisoning with fascinating
SaIA frocks, and each seems prettier
than anything hat has appeared be-
fore, SO thai the woman seeking an
idea for the costume to be made up
in the home sewing room within the
next week or so Is fairly bewildered as
to what to choose. There are one
tunic, two-tunic and three-tunic
frocks. There are frocks showing ruff
fes. and frocks showing f%iounces,
frock be-sashed at the waistline and
the hip-hne, frocks with draperies
lifted in tunic effect--the variety rs
endless But always the tunic idea
forms the paramount motif and all
h f1ounces, ruffles. sashes and drap-
cries achieve somehow or other the
inevitable tuntc effect.
The broken skirt" is now the thing
and 1t is a very questionable cos
tune indeed that shows straight, flow
ing lines from waistline to ankle. OBJ
viously. this broken skirted effect Is
trying to the dumpy igure-not
necessarily to the short, slight figure;
but there Is a zeal of difference be-
tween being short and slight, and
short and thick. So ~cleverly, how
ever. are many of the rufled tunic eff
fects contrived that even the woman
Cursed with curves" may attemp,
them, provided she is very, very care
full about the cut Of the skirt beneath
the bouffant trimmings, and about the
corset she wears beneath all.
Alluring Fabrics Ready For New
Tunic- Frocks.
Never were the counters where new
spring stuffs are displayed so fasci.
mating. Silks and cotton woven ma.
terfals in new, soft-textured weaves
and In plain and patterned effects are
ready for the dressmaker's scissor.
and here again one is absolutely dis.
tracted as to what to select, a color
combination seems SO much NOR,
charming than the last. Fortunately
the fad Is for combining plain ant
figured stuffs. so ones fancy has more
opportunity than would be the case II
a a of one-fabric frocks. Beau
tifuify soft In coloring and texture arr
the nigel crepes which this year hav,
displaced the long beloved shantung,
and rajahs in favor. Egyptian crepe
vail 10 SiASdpy TipDeu weave, INK
fable silk. comes In plain, patterned
and MORE effects-and right here 1
may be stated that MORE is the Graz,
of the hour. But a little MORE in :
frock is more distinguished than 6
whole costume made of this rich
watered silk. For example, a moir,
sash gives the completing touch O
chic to a taffeta frock; and a moir,
bolero and girdle will make perfec
q frock of checked or Powered crep,
IN combination with plain material o
the same
Pussy willow taffeta is a new, soft
textnred taffeta with a pleasing luste
quite unlike the hard, shiny luster o
o~Id-fashioned, crisp taffeta; and thi
new silk comes in plain and loweret
effects and in smart plaids which ar
known as kismet tartans. A yer,
smart rock of kismet tartan and plail
taffeta has just been completed for n
Easter trousseau, The clinging
draped skirt and a jaunty little boiler
coat are of plain pussy willow taffet'
IN the new midnight blue shade an,
the gay kismet tartan plaid, in shade
of blue, olive green and Besnard red
Is cut on the biaS-into ruffles o
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

ly enough, these colored 'transforma-
tons" are not hideously unbecoming,
especially when the shade is selected
to bring out the tints of the COM
plexion. With the colored couture
the face must be "made-up" a little
or the effect is too crude, and usually
a milk-white skin with slightly red
dened lips accompanies the artifcially
colored locks.
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

sleeves. At the edges OF the bodice,
on the revers are some buttons of steel
and jet and this exceedingly dis
tinguished little costume is completed
by a SIN all black hemp hat with out
sprouting black ostrich pompons,
black buttoned boots with high,
curved heels, and long gloves of white
embroidered silk.
Red Frocks a Spring Innovation.
Red is u very fashionable color this
year, but let not the out-of-toWn
woman be deceived into thinking that
any red offered her by the shop-lSeeper
will answer. The red smiled upon by
Madam Mode is a peculiar brick-tone
with an orange cast, called tango red.
a frock of pussy willow taffeta in
tango red, with q small, Irregular
white figure, scarcely more than a
dot, is pictured. The lines of this
frock are very soft n graceful, the
loose bodice opening over a vest or
white tulle frills. over the White tulle
falls one of the smart ribbon sautolrs,
red like the frock, and weighted with
a single bead in deep coral shade.
Sash and sleeve ruftle are of MORE
silk in a reddish white harmonizing
with the red-flecked-with-white frock.
The tie-back appears this spring in
Il modification OF the ancient tie
back" of Ii generation ago, for the
tie-back is first cousin to the hustle
and was quite to be expected when
hustle suggestions paved the way for
it, once more. A Paquin frock of
lowered and plain tango crepe shows
a modern variation of the tie-back.
Below a bouffant tunic appears a sash
which ties in the skirt around the
limbs, increasing the suggestion OF
fare in the tunic. The skirt, sash,
collar and cuffs in this model are OF
hyacinth tango crepe while the pan
niered tunic and bodice are of the
same material lowered in pale tearose
yellow with outlines of very dark blue
Chemisette, sleeve frills and wired
collar are Of shadow lace. At the
front, the skirt is pulled up a bit un-
der the tie-back sash to show the feet
and buttoned dancing slippers.
A Tunic Kept in Flat Lines by n
Weighted Sash.
While conveying the fashionable
tunic and hustle suggestions the ruff
ned frock by Cheruit suggests slender
lines and might therefore be risket
by a woman neither tall nor willowS
in line. This charming little Paquir
frock of dove gray Egyptian crepe is
suggostively bride-like. 1t has q
rather low waistline and a loose bod
ice which suggests the much-blousec
effect, though the walstline is really
trim. The bodice Is worn over q
guimpe OF very fine machine embroid,
cry with fiuted frills at the sleeve.
edge. The tunic Is trimmed with two
corded ruffles of the material and a
the back, the sash is looped under il
three tiers, giving the hustle effect
but since each loop and the end
Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1914-03-26

~HERE is no more convincing eX-
Al preston of personality than
IA perfume. One judges a woman's
N2aG tamnern mont by the nerfuIne
Ripley County democrat. (Doniphan, Mo.) 1905-1920, 1914-04-17
Missouri Debt Decreasing.

Jefferson City.--The director Of the
census bureau has prepared the fol-
lowing figures with reference to Mis-
Bouris Indebtedness: An inspection
of the tables ior Missouri shows that
only biennial reports we're obtainable
from 1890 TO 1902, The bonded In
dsbtedness OF SS,b53,OoO In 1890 de-
creased TO t4S7 900 In 1909. when II
disappeared altogether; another issue
Of $3.50, ,OGU was recorded for 1912. The
steadily decreasing total debt and tht
increasing population combined t,
bring about great reduction in the pei
capita debt. In 1880 the total debt o.
Missouri at the close Of the fiscal
year, Dec. 81. was $1s.5os. 900; in 1890
It was S12,213, 900; In 1912 the amount
was reduced to s4.77s,OOO. The popu.
lation Of the state Increased from
2,lSs,O in 1880 to S.335.000 In 1912
In 1880 the per capita debt was 50, In
1890 II was s4.3s and In 1912 the
amount had fallen to Sl.4O.
Ripley County democrat. (Doniphan, Mo.) 1905-1920, 1914-04-17
The Seed Bed.

No matter what kind Of seed
we plant there are a few things
I, at are essential to an ideal
{ sad Bed. The furrow slice must
be 80 we'll turned and. in such
good condition that it fits down
we'll with the subsoil. This fur
row slice must be packed go that
water will rise from the subsoil
to the place in the soil where the
seed is planted. From that point
to the surface the ground must
be loose. Solid below and a dust
mulch above the seed is exactly
what we want.
The easiest method Of securing
an ideal seed bed is to plow and
then wait for good rain tc set
tie and pack the soil, then use
the peg tooth harrow. But il
does not always rain when we
want it to even in good old South
east Missouri. Last season much
corn was planted on ground that
was cloddy and loose and it was
never able to overcome that hand
leap. II it does not rain the disc
harrow is a good tool to firm the
soil. The amount of work it will
require will depend upon the
physical condition of our furrow
slice, but no matter how much
work it may require we cannot
afford to plant anywhere but in
an ideal seed bed.
SETH BABoooK,
4 State Normal School,
Cape Girardeau, Mo.
Ripley County democrat. (Doniphan, Mo.) 1905-1920, 1914-04-17
CONSTITUTIONAL AMENDMENTS
AND REFERENDUM PRoPosI.
TIoNs TO DRAW BIG voTR.
U. s. SENATOR TO BE NAMED
Vetsofcnwomen Asltators Are Now
Securing Names for Petitions, and
This lssue viii Be Of Para
mount Interest and Import.

Jefferson City.-Although next falls
election is an "off-year." politicians
predict that q heavy vote will be-
polled because OF the emphasis and
the diversified character OF the pre1
posed constitutional amendments and
referendum propositions to be voted
upon.
Probady the biggest drawing card
for voters will be the novelty Of elect
ing q United States senator by direct
vote. This will Involve the discussion
Of national issues and doubtless will.
stir the state from end to end.
Voters will be attracted to the polls
also by each OF the following PROPOSE
tions:
The county unit law referred to theI
people by referendum petition.
The proposed amendment to the ini
tiative provision OF the state consti
tuition prohibiting its use in the sub !
mission Of single tax amendments and
otherwise restricting Its application.
The proposed amendment to tbs
state constitution lsvying q tax OF 10
cents upon the 800 valuation for
building roads.
The full-orew law, submitted to the
voters by referendum petition for rati.
hcation.
May Be Another Incentive.
n the advocates Of equal suffrage
submit their amendment, for which
they are now raising petitions, an ad'
ditional incentive to voters to turn
out will be offered.
The g. Louis home rule. police and
excise laws which were tied up by ref
erendum petitions through the activ.
ity OF Democratic politicians. will
bring out many voters, II is believed.
The ratification OF these laws would
permit Mayor Kiel, a Republican. and
his successors In St Louis to appoint
the police and excise boards. Police
and excise affairs are now handled
from jefferson City. the governor ap-
pointing the police board and excise
commissioner.
The enemies Of home rule In the leg.
islature attempted to inject the liquor
issue into the consideration Of the
bills and there is but little doubt that
an attempt will be made by the Dem.
ocratlc leaders to array the dry"
voters against these laws.
Ripley County democrat. (Doniphan, Mo.) 1905-1920, 1914-04-17

$4,759,3 was spent on Mis-
souri, highways in one way and
another last year.
The new Monroe county Jail,
on the third floor of the court
house, is roomy, clean and sani-
tary, but it's mighty lonesome,
the Paris Mercury declares. Ne.
groes who used to hunt up
chances to break into Jail are be-
ing mighty circumspect now. In
proof of which. this note, sent to
the circuit judge by Bippo Hun
ter, a negro convicted OF stealing
a beef hide: "Mr. Judge Rag
land-Dear Sir: Will you please
have me sent to the penitentiary
right away if | have to go for i
have been in Jail four months.
| am worn out and will please
have me sent right away for
Judge | am not the one stole that
hide"
The "pork barrel" method Of
road building has sprung into
prominence recently and it is
rather amusing to a imam up a
tree" to listen to the walls OF
some of the fellows who think
they are going to lose their slice
of "pork"if the Shackleiord Bill,
which recently passed the lower
house of Congress by an over
whelming majority, becomes q
Law, Missouri is getting some
experience in "pork barrel" road
building that ought to satisfy the
hungriest pap sucker in the land
The last legislature in this statG
distributed something like 5000,
900 Of the states money and il
ten wears from now no ons vii
be able to find where q dollar o
1t was used. Several years agt
the legislature divided up among
the one hundred and fourteen
counties q "pork barrel" con.
tanning nearly q half million dol
liars and except for three or fou
counties where the authoritie
had the good sense TO put thei
share Of the money into ccncret
bridges that money has accom-
lplished no permanent good
! Missouri Farmer.
Ripley County democrat. (Doniphan, Mo.) 1905-1920, 1914-04-17
A. q. U. Students Win.

Jefferson City.--A report from Co
lumbia says that George Wilson o.
Nevada, senior In the law school Of
the University Of Missouri, has won
the state oratorical contest. His sub
ject was "The New Pscificist." He will
represent the state at the westerH d.
vision contest at Des Moines, L., May
!. A. Q. Burns of William Jewell.
second, vall be alternate. Prises ef
SIS and $50 were won.