davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
CHANGING WAIST LINE
PUZZLES DRESSMKERS

Special Correspondence of The Star.
ON THE NORMANDY COAST, August
13.-Will the belt go lower? Can it?
These are the two questions one hears
wherever fashion is discussed
Strange, isn't it, how often fashion will
persist in returning to the same line
through a decade? The fancy of the
moment for the low sash or soft belt is
an evidence of it.
Over and over the dressmakers start
a movement for a high waist, and no
sooner is the fashion established. than
some smart woman drops the waist line
far below the normal and the fashion is
followed by hundreds who evidently like
it very well.
The Russian blouse effect seems never
to really die. It's difficult to tell why
women cling to it, but no concerted ac-
ton Of dress designers is strong enough
to wedge them from it.
The return of II this summer among
all these fashionable folk down here is
amazing.
True. they have eliminated the Poiret-
Bakst flare of the peplum, which was
as much Persian as Russian: the gen.
eral shape of the peasant blouse is fol-
lowed, and it matters little whether it is
called coat. or serves as blouse, or
The main idea for wearing it seems to
be the straight surface it presents for
the arrangements of the sash. The pres
ent effort is directed toward a silhouette
that is entirely straight from bust to
well below the normal waist line, then
a straight curve indicated by a swath-
ing sash.
You remember that this wide sash be-
gan just a little above the hips, and
swathed them in true oriental fashion.
1t had its bow in the back, which speed
lily found itself in front and now the
whole sash has slipped far down the
figure that it has to be held up with
slides. otherwise it would soon find itself
on the ground.
very smart American woman who
lives in a villa on this coast came over
TO see the tennis. wearing a coat and
skirt of amethyst purple ribbed velvet.
The coat fell in a straight line from
the shoulders nearly to the knees in the
manner of a workman's blouse, the diff
ference being that the fullness was elm
mated and the garment chung moder-
ateiy closer to the figure. Fully ten
inches below the waist line it was held
in by an unusually wide sash Of soft
tan suede This abric was run through
exaggerated buttonholes cut through the
coat at intervals and bound with plain
velvet.
The hat was a plain sailor of tan felt
with huge purple poinsettia at the side.
1t was remarkably good-looking cos
tune.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

Dieppe to New Haven, and as the Eng
lsh shore appeared in the distance
anxiety seemed to be forgotten in the
relief at reaching a land where our own
tongue was spoken.
One girl on board wore the trig lit
tie suit of the sketch, which is fairly
typical of the new tailor mades."
The material is Deauville cloth in olive
green and combined with it is a green
and tan striped taffeta that appears as a
vest and a second tunic founce.
The Jacket is an eton with three-quar-
ter-length sleeves cut with the body. The
front edges are rounded away over the
vest and parchment colored taffeta fac
ings used for the military collar. the vest
lapels and the cuffs. The front of the
Jacket and vest are short enough to show
the satin girdle about the waist. Both
tunics are laid in folds about the waist,
and the top one is given a row of self
covered buttons down the center front.
The lower skirt is quite plain.
The idea of combining two or more
materials in one suit will hold good
throughout the fall. and plaids and
stripes will still be favored.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
THE DAILY MENU.

BREAKFAST.
Baked Apples Cereal
Bacon and Eggs
Rolls Coffee
LUNCHEON.
Salmon Salad Tomato Biscuits
Potato Chips
Fruit Cake
Tea
DINNER.
Cream of Spinach Soup
Lamb Chops French Fried Potatoes
Corn Fritters
Beet and Egg Salad
Sliced Peaches with Cream Cookies
Coffee
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

Such pretty toilet of copper-colored
taffeta with trimmings of Roman silk
in harmonizing coIors is pictured
above. This frock shows a novel front
closing with little vest of striped
ribbon showing beneath what might be
crossed revers. but which continue
after crossing to become a girdle,
fastened under the left arm with ma
terial covered buckle. The sleeves
have an under sleeve of striped silk
The long tunic is finished at the bottom
with a quaint putting of the plain taf-
feta and falls over an underskirt of
the stripe.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
over the fire. let it boil up, remove and
when cold put in jars.
Celery Relish.

To make this take six lunches of
celery, fifteen tomatoes, one red pep
per. two cups of sugar. two table
spoons of salt and one teaspoon each
Of ground mustard, cloves, allspice,
cinnamon and celery seed. and one and
one-half cups of vinegar.
Cut off the roots and leaves of the
celery, separate the stalks and chop
them. Wipe, peel and chop the toma-
toes. Wipe and chop the pepper. Mix
the ingredients and add the vinegar.
Combine the mixtures, put in a pre-
serving Kettle. bring to boiling point
and let simmer one and one-half hours
Fill jars to overflow and adjust COW
ers
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
Stuffed Baked Tomatoes.

Cut slice from the blossom end OF
unpeeled tomatoes. scoop out the pulp,
and mix it with an equal amount of
oreadcrumbs. very little chopped onion,
salt and pepper and one beaten egg. FIJI
the tomatoes. and bake in a pan with
Basic with melted butter mixed with a
little water
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

brown sugar into a saucepan with a pint
of water. half a teaspoonful OF cream OF
tartar and a quarter pound of butter.
When boiled put in the almonds, then
bring them to the boil. Test by drop
ping little in cup of cold water; when
boiled enough 1t is brittle. Turn out on
a creased tin
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
Charming Underwear.

A charming piece of underwear is
made of pink crepe de chine. There is
petticoat of accordion-pleated chiffon,
fastened to an underbodice of crepe de
chine. trimmed with lace and with pink
satin bands over the shoulders This
combination could be worn under a frock
Of silk or it could be worn with a neglige
of any sort.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
FOREIGN FASHIONS
F. AMERICANS
BY LILLIAN E. YOUNG.

The crowds of American tourists evacu-
ating Paris. even in such troublous times
and confusion. lived up to their reputa-
ton of being always well dressed, ana
though SO much excitement reigned
among all at the time of crossing the
channel, it was nevertheless an extreme
ly luxurious appearing crowd that nilea
the little ships to capacity going from
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
Hats Match Topcoats.

1t was the idea of both Royant ana
Chanel. the smart topcoat makers in
Paris. to show on the beach at Deau-
vile last summer hats to match the
loose outer garment And the blond
girl wore a quaint and very becoming
neglige hat made of the same blue
and ribbed corduroy as her coat
1t had rather a high soft crown
with brim stiffened only by stitching
and turned up at the sides. disappear
ing entirely in the back, and shading
the eyes like a visor in the front.
This fashion solves the problem of
what to wear with topcoat that is
strongly marked by color. Few hats
go with them in q haphazard manner
as you have undoubtedly found out
for yourself.
With a white coat the choice of
headgear is far more liberal; but when
it is bright brown or pink or orange,
or this new blue what can go with it
better than hat of the fabric or of
a soft felt that exactly matches?
ANNE RITTENHOUSE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

WHEN THE FRENCH WOMAN DOES
NOT WEAR A HAT SHE WEARS AN
ELAB RATE ORNAMENT OF
FEATHERS. IN THE SKETCH IS
SHOWN A FRENCH FROCK OF
WHITE TULLE BEADED WITH
BLUE, WITH A BAND OF BLUE RIB
BON SHOWING BENEATH THE
TUNIC. THE BODICE AND LOWER
PART OF THE SKIRT ARE OF LACE.
ting, reaching well below the waist
with its hem turned up like the hem
on mans trousers. 1t was fastened
in front with white pearl buttons.
very short white corduroy skirt
was added. fastened down the front
with fiat white buttons as large as dol
lars.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
The Nesy House Garments
for Women Are I'm
usually AftracttUe.

Late arrivals in these practical
Bile and serviceable garments
show to what extent women may
provide themselves for the cool
days of ''in-between" seasons. To
many they are more needed now
than later. Various styles for
your choosing.
Women's Blanket Robes,
in various new styles, Co..,
and in all sizes. ........ S<./o
womeu's Eiderdown Dress
ing Sacques. in the de-
sirable plain colors so cYoo
much in demand Pi'o
women's Outing Flannel
Gowns. of exceptionally Sroo
splendid quality. ,.....P
Third floor, Eleventh st.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
Children's Sashes at Night,

Some of the women when dancing at
night look as though they had borrowed
children's sashes for the occasion. AL
though it is not probable that youngsters
viii take up such vivid coloEs.
The soft lengths of silk are passed as
near the knees as a woman's figure can
stand. over a garment that is cut like
chemise and made of tulle or chiffon
There are two ends: just loop or
buckle, or possibly a huge velvet flower
So entirely fiat is the hip line that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

Here is a charmingly simple toilet
OF white crepon worn with a dashine
black and white hat. This is embel-
lished with lace and white taffeta cuffs
and collar embroidered In marine blue.
The frock is made with a pleat over
the shoulder and collar Of taffeta un-
der one Of lace. The little vest con-
sists Of fold Of lace and the girdle
is of the material buttoning at the
front with large crochet buttons. The
skirt has a hip yoke on sides and front,
consisting OF three broad horizontal
tucks of the material. To this the lower
portion of the skirt Is gathered. The
skirt Is slightly draped at the back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
Brilliant Blue Topcoats.

saw tall blond last week wearing
a bright blue coat on the beach at the
fashionable ) o'clock hour, when the
world is taking it's tea in front of the
sea, the far horizon accentuated with
ships passing up the coast, and the peb-
bly, beach made picturesque by black
hulled fishing smacks pulled up out of
the water. the low sun turning all to
gold and silver.
ting she walked, the blond in the
bright blue coat, and received all the
approval she merited and expected.
Probably it was made by Nine. Roy
ant, who launched those smart coats
at Deauville last summer which were
quickly taken up by the fashionable
world. for it bore the Individual stamp
of that house.
1t was of corduroy, new supple
velvet weave that may not be recon-
mended for long service, but which
can be highly Endorsed for beauty. and,
parenthetioally, few. if any, women dis
turb themselves much over the durable
qualities of gown or a wrap when
materials change SO quickly and al
teration is exceedingly difficult.
In color it was a brilliant blue, that
some people call Norwegian. but which
has no real name; it is just happy
stroke for a lucky worker in dyes.
Quite a good deal of material was
used. as it was gathered to the neck
band back and front. Into all this
fullness were placed large sleeves,
bishop shape, that were half fitted to
the wrist by a wide turnover cuff.
The collar stood very high all around
the head and turned fatty over and
rolled we'll down to it's base.
There were two rows OF buttons
down the front. huge glass buttons
showing a deeper shade of blue than
the corduroy of the coat; by the way.
these colored glass buttons are every
where. even on white wash blouses,
some of them having two or three
colors showing through a clear white.
Well below the waist line was a
wide loose belt of the fabric running
through long slides at each side, but
nof In the hack
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
The Velvet Hat First.

lows the path trodden by the French
woman in choosing a wide-b rimmed
black velvet hat first. She never cared
for the small turban with its exag-
gerated high plumage. 1t was not the
kind of thing that suited her face or
her style
Now that the fashions call for lar
ger hat or rather one with a brim. she
is quite happy. She, like the English
woman, feels that she looks her best in
something that shades her eyes, and 1t
may be that this style will persuade
her to adopt the French fashion
There are certain types of Americans
who are delighted when an opportunity
FOR the wearing of evening hats comes
their way. and here one sees well
known fashionables coming into the
casino at night with tiptilted black
same women will probably omit the
hat the moment they arrive in New
York. So strong is custom,
There is little doubt that black vel
vet will go undisputed along it's path
1t holds the field against all new COM
ers- 1t is not worn for all the hours
these new new colorful hats that take
the name of Mortine. but which are
built by dozens by people who have
never seen the work done in the house
on the Faubourg ST Honore. have be-
witched women. And well they might
They are infinitely above the panama
and the leghorn One especially good
looking one worn by an English girl
Yesterday had folded fiat top of heavy
white cotton with Byzantine stripes OF
red. yellow and blue across it-huge
stripes in splashing colors-with
brim facing of dull cream silk At the
extreme edge were posed two tiny flow
ers offs blue crocheted wool bedded in
dark gren leaves.
Below this hat was worn one of the
most fashionable of outdoor sports
coats; a dark green garment, half-fit-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

Assyrian girdles knotted in front with
heavily embroidered and fringed ends are
seen on the new gowns
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
The Colored Canotiere.

Each week sees more and more of the
highly colored fiat felt hat called the
canotiere. 1t does not hesitate at any
tint, the more Byzantine, the better
The colors may moderate when the cold
weather comes on. but foresee a great
popularity for this especial brand Of
hat in America this autumn.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

The new waists or blouses are basques
almost without exception. Some even
have fitted backs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

The woman who likes the straight line
skirt with the long coat will find herself
in luck this fall
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

Full tunics of lace over satin skirts are
finished at the waist with silk or velvet
sasheS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28
HATS AND COUTURE ORNAMENTS.
BY ANNE RITTENHoUsE.

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
ON THE NORMANDY COAST, August
13.-It is strange in the light of other
things, that the French fashion for wear
ing a hat with a low gown has never
imposed itself upon Americans.
One sees so much of it here where
women foregather after late dinner at
the casino to dance or to stake little
silver or much gold on chance
e.. Here and there one sees American
women who lend themselves readily to
French custom wearing broad-brim-
med hat of black velvet with gown
sufficiently low and handsome to serve in
box at the opera, but these women are
rare.
But the habit of going about with
bare heads, and an evening gown is not
confined to Americans only. 1t is an
Anglo-Saxon trait The English women
do it. but they make it more conspicuous
by adding tiaras or marvellous jewels
OF some kind to the couture.
When the French leave off their hats
they add immense aigrettes or feathers.
When the American leaves off her hat
she merely sees to it that her couture is
becoming.
1t is an interesting racial character
istic to watch. One can determine
nationality by it almost as much as by
To wear a hat with a decollete gown is
so much against the American idea that
no smart restaurant will admit lady
on the dancing floor with one; and it is
not permitted at the play.
No one could easily explain the reason
for this rule, except through the under
standing that evening dress demands an
uncovered head. If the French idea ever
prevails, then there will have to be an
entire reconstruction of public opinion.
Naturally the French women do not
wear hats with low frocks at balls, or at
dinner parties held in private houses. but
the moment they leave the private for
the public roof they cover their heads.
They are pre-eminently people for
head ornament almost as much so as an
American Indian.
The Anglo-Saxon not only prefers the
head uncovered in the evening but at
all hours when it is possible. Their first
idea of comfort is to get the hat off;
whereas a French womans first idea of
decOrum is to keen on her hat
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

White is the favored color for women 5
sweaters.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-08-28

We Are Closing Out at This Time
Without Regard to Former Prices
Our Entire Remaining Stocks of Women's
and Misses Suits, Colored Wash Dresses,
Women's Wash Skirts and Girls
Summer Apparel.
which place merely nominal
remaining stock the earliest date
We this that single shall be hand to inter
displays fall merchandise constantly arriving
Womens Suits and the early fall; Women's
Wash Dresses for outdoor and ideal for indoor
throughout the fall and Women Wash Skirts which be
for several weeks to come
Misses and Girls Apparel much of which be used for
the beginning OF the and later we'll
Personal Inspection Will Reveal the Importance of the
Reductions.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-30
PRESIDENTS SWEET
MEMORIES CLUSTER
ABOUT CITY OF ROME
In Quaint Georgian Town
He Fell in Love" With
Ellen Louise Axson and
Wooed Her.
By BURTON X. sTANDIsH

ROME, Ga, Sept. SO.-When some one
| in years to come writes the life history OF
| President Wilson much of it will be
woven around this little city where Ellcr
Louise AXson-Wilson. the President
wife, was born, and where, on August Il
1914, sne was buried.
Almost every one here repeats at tine
least solicitation beautiful little stories
| ABOUT the President "love affair" with
| Miss Axson." Almost every one knows
that the President was formally intro
duced 10 her here in the First Presby-
teran Church, where her father was pas
tor for Il years. And many relate how
beside the Third Street Bridge over the
Onawah River, President Wilson proposed
to the minister's daughter.
When one knows that the President
fell in love" with Mrs. Wilson here. that
he courted her here, that he pledged his
life to her here, one can understand why
he, as President Of the United States,
should travel 100 miles away from Wash
inCton to bring her to her final resting
place.
The Presidents feeling Is believed to he
exactly as expressed by his brother-in-
law. Professor stockton AXson, in tele-
gram after the funeral 10 sister of
Mrs. Wilson. who was III in Oregon.
When the funeral party was on the
special train, Professor AXson sent this
tClegTam 10 his sick sister:
"Everything was beautiful. We left sis
ter with father and mother"
And they did for Mrs. Wilson was
buried in Myrtle Hin Cemetery beside her
father and mother,
While the President remembers meet
Ing Mrs Wilson here; in fact. he had
met and played with her years before
he was a young man. For one week
when the President was only three or
four years old, Mrs. Wilson'S father and
mother went to Atlanta 10 visit PresI-
dent Wilson's parents There the Presi-
dent met Ellen AHSon. then a cute baby
only year old, and for tho whole week
refused 10 leave her. It is even stated
that the President cried bitterly when
the Axsons left Atlanta for Rome
A few years later Thomas Woodrow
Wilson and his father. also a minister
went TO Rome, Ga, TO visit the Rev.
Mr. AXson. Here the President again
met the little girl Then she was about
eight years old. and they ran hoops"
and played together along the Etowah
River banks.
But the future President was destined
to make another shift, and from then
until he was a young lawyer living I'm
Atlanta ne did not visit this city.
Atlanta Is about 6S miles from Rome
One day when the President was carry
ing on his unsuccessful Law practice he
journeyed over 10 Rome, spent the sun
day here and attended the First Pres
byterian Church. AT the service he no.
tced a young woman whose beautiful
face attracted him and he asked 10 be
introduced
II was another case Of love at first
sight" and It Is declared that the Presi-
dent and Miss Arson had an under
standing" very shortly afterward. al
though they were not engaged for several
weeks. Within a year or so they Were
married. and Rome. Ga, the scene Of
their early love, was sndeared ts them
forever afteTward.
Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-09-30
MISSION COTTAGE FURNITURE
ADAPTED TO BUNGALOW
Soft Dull Finish Preferable for Camp
and Enameled for Seashore.

Mission cottage furniture is particu.
larly appropriate in a bungalow bedroom
of this type and, with wide choice of
color and finish. it is possible to carry
out any scheme Of decoration at very
reasonable cost.
The soft dull finish in the many brown
shades. silver gray or sage green, is en-
pecially desirable for camp bungalows
while the cnameled finish seemA pecu-
liarly appropriate for the cottage at the
seashore. OF course, all varieties of this
attractive furniture may be used de-
lightfully in the suburban house. The
rafters In the room here pictured seem
to be part of the furniture and add
greatly to the cheeriness and bright eff
feet of the room. the note of color, of
course, being in the curtains.
And what an endless variety of color
ana pattern can be found these days at
little prices Many reproductions of ex-
pensive English chintz patterns may be
bought for IS to 25 cents a yard, and
the most commonplace room can be
transformed with dainty cretonne cur
tains. ruffied bedspreads and cnair cush-
ions made TO match If the wall paper
is self-toned or plain, one may select
most any pattern, dashing or otherwise
II, on the other hand. the paper is fig
ured, plain material must be used or
the effect will be restless, an important
feature to consider I'm a bedroom Ad-
Unstable curtain rods OF the cornicc type
arc much more desirable and newer than
the rods with the hopeessly ugly balls
on the ends.
Curtains with n valance ruffled or
plated are always attractive. but n new
or rather old idea revived, is the wooden
cornice covered with cretonne concealing
the rod, on which the curtains may be
opened or drawn at will by means of n
cord with tassel ends. which can easily
be applied. making a very pretty finish
The floor of this dainty room, in two
shades of wood, is a new and good ef-
feet, while the sturdy little mission beds
complete an attractive room