The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-07-05

/ 'u'H ~ the exclusive IarlSlenne or
1914!
But she does not look like this when
you meet her in the Rue de la Paix or
when you take tea near her at the Ritz
restaurant. The style of dress which
nave Just describcu is reserved for
private functions. for garden parties
given by intimate friends or for dance
teas. &C.
The Parisi~nnes have always. at
| heart, drawn a distinct line between
public and private life This IL why .
many famous society leaders appear at
the races and other public places OF
amusement in smart tailored suits; ~
at most in simple but exquisitely cut
costume in Liberty satin OF taffeta. 1t
Is against the Parisien spirit to wear a
garden party gown at race meeting
even mt the Grand Prix.
Happily for those in business la
Grande Semaine" does not represent the
end Of the summer season. A short
time ago no one in the fashionable
world dreamed OF staying on in Paris
after the Grand Prix. In those days
very special attention was paid to the
family season at the big chateaux--the
season which occupied the month OF
July.
Nowadays the smartest women pro-
long the summer season in Paris and
+, advance the season at Trouville. Blair
ritz, SC. in this way practically doing
away with the family gatherings Of
July. This Is very typical OF the age.
| No one has much time for family life:
| the big shooting parties Of September
| and October are considered sufficient.
In my last article spoke OF thu
present rage for black gowns composed
| OF exquisite lace. chiffon, embroidered
taffeta. &c. This note OF black has
been struck loudly in the Grande Sc
maine tollettes. The ma jority OF the
! well known elegantes have selected filmy
black gowns for The Drags' and for
! the Grand Prix or a clever mixture OF
black and white.
| As an illustration OF this charmine
fashion I must mention highly original
cape recently created for Princess
] Gerard de Faucigny- Lucigne. II was a
J long. transparent garment composed Of
/ the finest black Chantilly lace and II
I was arranged in founces. each nounce
being bordered with bias band Of
+ oyster white tafYeta. The effect was de-
liciously cool and summary and the long
cape was light as a muslin scarf.
Princess Gerard has made a speciality
of black lace gowns this season. Re-
Gently at a garden party given at the
British Embassy she was the centre Of
! attraction in n draped robe OF black
chiffon inset with Chantilly and mounted
over silver tulle. Her slender waist was
swathed II. supple sash OF heliotrope
satin and at her breast she wore
cluster Of real heliotrope and some moss
roses. There were large silver buckles
on her black kid shoes and her hat was
one Of the new fiat brimmed shapes in
black satin straw with two splendid
black ostrich feathers laid round the low
crown.
At the same garden party the Duchess
Of Portland made a sensational en-
trance ROBBED in a creamy lace mounted
over white charmeuse. with a broad
sash Of black velvet and a turban toque
covered with scarlet japonica blossoms.
She wore a long string Of matchless
pearls and her gloves and shoes were
in palcst pearl gray suede.
have slSetched this week two original
and attractive summer costumes which
illustrate some Of the latest ideas OF the
Rue de la Paix artists.
The standing figure shows one OF the
new Cintre or shaped coats which are
cut like n modern riding Jacket. These
coats mould the figure and seem to in
dlcate the return Of small waists. but
this indication meet not be taken very
seriously. II will he long before the
present natural corset finds q successful
rival.
The material OF the model which
have sketched was canary yellow linen
and the sleeves of the coat were ex-
ceedingly short. Then comes distinct
novelty-the short glove. decorated with
a bracelet OF black velvet, worn in con-
junction with an eXaggeratedly short
sleeve. Personally l consider this an
inartistic fashion. 1t leaves the greater
part of the arm quite bare, and though
a bare arm and gloveless hand is
charming the peculiar effect OF a two
button glove with a short sleeve IL
startling. Still this is one OF the
very new fashions, and it has been re-
ceived with favor by several notable
parIsiennes. The effect of the canary
yellow linen coat worn over pleated
skirt of black charmeuse was charming.
The sitting figure shows an uneN-
pected melange of white muslin and
white MORE souple. The gown was
radiantly fresh and summerlke. The
design was comparatively simple out
every detail had been carefully thought
out.