davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
THE OIsAPP EARANCE, OF THE
CHbPEPON.

The chaperon is one OF the disappearing
South American institutions. and her dis
appearance marks another stage in the
evolution OF the South American women
But Il was left to the young women OF
Buenos Ayres apparently 20 signalize Tie
golf course as the place from which she
should make her exit.
These arc some Of the lighter or super
fetal phases OF the evolution. but the
are all significant Of the real change hs,
Is coirg on. Actually. womens activ' ties
in South America follow nearly the chan
mel that they do In the north, although
not vet 80 greatly hroadened Church ard
charitable work occupy them. The sew
ing society. under different name. Il
ways has been as much q Spsnish-Ameri-
can aa a New England Institution
The South American women who want
ed a wider field generally found IT in
membership i'm humane societies or socie-
ties to prevent cruelty to animals. They
are getting beyond that sphere now. |
DO not know of many womens clubs yer
there are undoubtedly some Of these or
canizatio and there viii be more IN
the future. The germ Of social welfare
movements is already visible
Votes for women is not the slogan
OF any group or of any militant clement
possibly because i'm many OF the courtric.
votes for men are not Of much value. But
one day. reading the account ofa meeting
in connection with some Workingmen's
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

organization and a parade at Callao.
noticed that there were some women
suffragettes in the procession.
Al Santiago the government was greatly
disturbed by a threatened labor upheaNal.
There was a sympathetic strike and the
strikers had 4 parade and a meeting with
somewhat violent addresses. Mounted
troops, infantry and the police kept the
streets clear. as il was somewhat signih
cantly explained, for the procession
one section was led by a group of WON
EN- factory workers. Some were girls,
mere children. while others were mature
women. During pause while the sol
diers and the police were clearing the
way / asked one Of the women paraders
what their grievances were. She told
them briefly and without emotion.
Long hours had been shortened and
pitifully small wages had been increased
somewhat in her factory. but when the
general movement began she and the
other women workers went out for the
good Of all she tersey explained. Then
she glanced at the military detachment,
noting especially the mounted troops.
Continued on nth page
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

apparatus that In general appearance
looked like e great wall heating radi-
ator. II was la reality a circuit possess
ing resistance and an inductive capacity
equal 20 that OF submarine cable 5000
miles long. Or long enough 10 reach from
New York 10 Paris
"you gauge your voice" he continued
according 10 the distance which the
waves must travel IN order TO be heard
by the audience II II is long han YOU
speak slowly Otherwise, the words
would become jumbled and be incoherent
20 The listener So il is with the tele-
phonc and tcieGraph-the waves. or i'm
nulses must be distinct. and the longer
The distance they have TO travel the slow
or they will so. the weaker they will be
come and the greater must DC the initial
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
q SIGN OF EMERGENCE FROM
OBSCURITY

Just al that time a bridge tournament
al the National club was in progress.
think il was auction bridge. For sever1l
evenings everybody i'm social life in Lima
was there Just imagine sad Jhe
same American. how it would have
seemed a few years ago 10 hav, sug-
eested that these ladies should take part
i'm affairs Of this kind Everybody would
have been Mortified; but see what a good
time they are having now. | gecollectcd
a public banquet or dinner of some kind
at the National club few years back.
when ladies were present with their has
bands. and this was regarded as quite
unusual one lady told me that it was
the first occasion she had ever been a,
function of the kind. although her hus-
uand was a man OF prominence.
Another instance of the chsuge as u
is seen in Peru Ii was only three
months ago that Young matron o.
Lima was giving voice to her pleasure
at the prospect of going 10 a 5all with
her husband. 1t was her first dance. She
would leave six children at home. When
she was schoolgirl such thing as at
tending ball was unheard OF, ana after
her marriage at the age Of Il. though her
husband went odt 10 frequent functions
neither Of them ever thought tnat she
should go along. Possibly some one can
imagine an American girl waiting SO
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
W1 BF EASY TO TEL EPION TO PARIS IF THIS CONTINUANCE WORKS

room separated from tho laboratory h.
the front office I'm this was a telephone
booth i'm which were three receivers and
two transmtters Of the ordinary pattern
One Of these. he explained. was connected
with the battery Of resistance inductiys
devices representing the submarine cable.
Then fe disappeared into the laboratory.
In q moment voice. clear and musical,
E5s heard.
you are now listening through an
artificial cable representing a submarine
cable extending from New York TO Paris.
it said. which is equivalent to an open
land line 1000 miles long one, two,
three, four, five" Counting in that way.
apparently is sort OF test. Then the
voice asked for response Evidently il
was received, for a reply came back a.
promptly as under the circumstances one
might expect II to do. although in cleo
trical terms the speaker was at least as
far away as Paris
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
REDUCTION IN THE COST OF
OPERATION

The value OF such a device is much
greater than the layman would believe.
To him IT means ease Of communication.
To the telegraph and telephone companies
81 means reduction I'm thu cost OF opcr-
alton and increased facilities with pres
ent equipment The layman does no
know why only one wiie il required for =
telegraph line. while AT least two are uscd
In TIE operation Of q telephone. In the
former. owing 10 the slower number o,
impulses required. tho making Of the cir
cult through the earth is sufficient. In
The case Of the more complicated vibrs
tions involved in the sending % spoken
message 2 two-wire circuit IN which -.
current is not led into the grouno bur
back to the point Of origin by second
wire IS employed For long distance
talking even two wires are not enough
At least four the size OF lead pencil iu
diameter. are required. These furnish two
actual circuits and third between the
wires called ny the experts a phantom
circuit. because II is IN tho air and upon
10 wire Having fewer impediments e.
overcome. this phantom" circuit works
more freely and carries its message
greater distance than Otherwise would br
possible The heavy copper wire. not
only costly TO buy but costly to maintain
IN position on the poles. because OF it,
weight. makes long distance telephony
highly expensive IN operation. The sever
ing ~ a single one Of the four wires
breaks the circuit With this device ~
Or NussOs Il H. claimed thar "A nair cr
small wires IL all that Is necessary Ia
maintsir the circuit and transmit ths
messages across continents
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION A
CAUSE

The American military occupation OF
Cuba was one cause OF the decadcnce Of
the mantlla. I'm the breaking away from
iron-bound customs OF which the Cuban
women awaited themselves other women
Of Spanish America sympathizeC. Later
they followed the Cuban example.
Changes i'm mode OF dress and femi-
nine adornment are. however merely the
superficial expression Of deeper changes.
These are, perhaps. the most marked at
Lima. which rs the centre OF Peruvian
culture. It is there that Latin American
conservatism has been attacked most
subtiy, get without any shock
\ bevy Of schoolgirls attracted the at
tention OF an American who had lived ina
Peru for many wears. They are going
70 the roller skating rink he remarked,
land YOU see there is no older sister. no
family servant, with them. Ten years
ago this would not have been possible"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
THE NEW WOMAN" IN SPANISH
AMERICA.

% is tru, that many Of the stock ideas
about spansh-American women are dis
,ppesring. People who write books about
- customs and manners Will have 10
revise them o. drop out some OF the
chapters which puport 10 reflect the So
dsl usagcs
The traditional idea is that IN every
spsnish-American town the dark-eyed
sehorItas ard sefo'as are seen twice a
week boz public. The occasion being the
THURSDAY night and sunday night band
-oncerts IN tho plaza. when they turn out
and parade the walks. While procession
q young men and old men goinS I'm the
opposite direction passes them and re-
passes them. This still happens. but the
Practice IS changing and now. except in
very Few ol the remcter places. one has
10 depend ou something more than the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

~ on would YOU like to sit at your
III desk I'm YOUR own home and be
able 10 talk by telephone with
Trend On Cape Town. Picking or san Fran
cscoo What would newspaper editor
b wllr- 90 give for an opportunity 10
converse whenever he chose With his COR
respondents m London or Mexico city \
device ha. bccn invented which apparent
make this possible. IL IS simple ap-
risnce which can be attached 10 existing
telephone and cable systems
An that rs necessary in order 10 under
Nsnd thc method Of operation Of the in
'enuon fow facts about the habits Of
NE elusive electric current. little knowl-
edge Of "inductive capacity ard resist
ance This is AN there is 10 ii, and,
'erslca with am exploration by d.
'iuacppe Musso the italian inventor, and
Visit TO thc laboratory. at No 50 Maiden
iane, makes am as plain as can be.
To begin with 10 is necessary TO know
'omethue about the present limitations
~ the uec of tho telephone and the tele-
iiaph ln The telephone the number OF
VIBRATION or distinct impulses. which the
oectric current must convey, averages
-'ee second The average capacity o.
The submarine cable is about 500. or an
"efage Of twenty five words
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

were among the passengers. She wore a
fine mantilla. a family heirloom from
Valencia. i'm Spain. An hour after we
reached La Paz ! met her and her hua-
band i'm the Murillo Plaza. 1t was sun
day afternoon, and everybody was out
for stroll The mantila had disap-
pcared. and i'm its place was a fairly be-
coming Paris hat which had come by
percel post At Santiago few weeks
ago noted that. except during the
morning hours, when the Santiago ladies
Were goins TO mass, the mantilla was
rarely seen.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

long to attend her first ball. but it takes
"A good imagination TO do it.
Another example of the growing free
dom Of women is noticeable in Santiago.
The CHILEAN capital is as big a city as
Washington and has large element in
it's population which IS oiitan in
character Yet until few years aeo
European ideas and medieval Spans h
customs prevailed as 10 the appearance
Of women i'm public. - was rare for
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

dent discovered the cause. once around
the links" she remarked. rs as much as
any chaperon can stand. and even then
some OF them arc ready 10 drop. You
may be sure that the second time around
tho links she will be resting in some quiet
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

Continued on nth page.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

Azs,zxcljoaI Zzeec>-e IRA
AYo ose ~1sSzelr-o, ICAeS-e
c--7c- Seoe.G>~ ana [dS<zxor1
%6-z5lL HSSe'rs'hIe
The Washington herald., 1914-05-17
NOTES FROM
THE FASHION CENTERS

forth for lace is to reign supreme, but
we also will wear filmy muslins en-
broidered to give border effects, voiles
and marquisettes that are woven in
variety of founcings or bordered stuffs
and it is truly amazing to note in how
many ways they are being utilized.
what an infinite variety Of effects are
being obtained with their help.
All the fancy little capes and man.
ties seem to belong to this sort Of COS
tune by natural right. We really did
not need these latest models and this
latest information from across the
sea, for the cape was a foreteller of
it all. To be sure, it came to US first
in a rather severe from and adapted
to essentially prosaic uses but it was
a cape nevertheless and those of US
things realized that the garment was
sure to develop. sure to take a hun
dred forms, sure to become just what
it is becoming, a fascinating little
wrap, capable Of producing wonderful
effects and of giving just the touch Of
coquetry that always seems the
essentially feminine touch.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-17

IUST think of It'll You may have
all the pretty summer frocls you
y want this year because everything
that is fashionable is easy to make
and you can run up your own gown
without any difficulty whatever. In
May there are sure to be all sorts Of
sales, and fashionable frocks take little
material, so that the cost of the fabric
need not enter very largely into your
calculations. Time is a great con-
sideration in these busy days. and
really such costumes as those that are
shown here require very little ex-
penditure.
Whether you make the skirt and
shirtwaist of the same material or
make the skirt of linen, ratine or
cotton poplin or some heavier ma
terial of the sort and the blouse Of
thinner, lighter fabric is entirely a
matter for you to decide. for fashion
states that both are correct and it
would not be bad plan to have COS
TUNES of both sorts Undoubtedly
whole suits of linen, soft finished pique.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-17

HAT we are to have a summer
of feminine effects. deliciously
soft, fluffy costumes. all the
picturesqueness that goes with real
femininity, seems to be assured.
Paris, the whimsical, has set the seal
of approval upon lace and all hlmy
stuffs, upon flouncings Of all sorts.
upon draperies that are really ex-
quisite and upon every possible evolu-
ton of the fancy little cape or mantle.
1t has been whispered and limited that
the summer styles of 1914 would be
those of the Second Empire and there
have been various rumors of a similar
sort but. as has been stated in these
letters again and again, we never
really copy any earlier time. We only
CLEAN suggestions therefrom, and what
we are to have with the coming Of
summer weather is an adaptation Of
the 1880 styles that makes them prac-
tically new and really all our own.
Every variety of aouncing Is to be
worn and women who have treasures
of lace hidden away may well search
the trunks in the garnet and bring them
The Washington herald., 1914-05-17

GONE Of the prettiest blouses OF
- null and handkerchief linen
designed for wear with the coat
suit are finished with draped hchus
Of white and these fichus are variously
finished with scallops and with frills.
Since fchus, sashes and girdles all con-
tribute largely to the picture effect
which is promised as dominant note.
they are all important and all worthy
Of note. We should not have needed
any authority to assure US that we
may have essentially dainty and
feminine fashions for afternoon and
evening occasions and still reserve the
more practical. simple designs for
morning, walking and the like but. as
if to set our minds at rest. we have the
authority Of M. Worth in a recent
cabled account for such contrasts in
the seasons styles and it is likely that
the complete summer wardrobe will
show sturdy and even severe tailored
suits for climbing. walking and the
like even while the daintiest possible
creations are devised for the evening
hours. Since such fact will only mean
an interesting contrast in the costumes
Of the day. the condition is one to
be met with interest. Appropriate
ness always must be the real test Of
what is desirable and it is the part Of
the woman's training to be able to
wear the severe costume of the morning
tramp with grace quite as well as the
berufled and frilly one Of the evening
dance.
Street costumes, which are always
the subject of interest during the
spring, are unusually attractive and
a great deal of embroidery is to be
noted. An exceedingly handsome
suit Of ivory white poplin is, for ex-
ample. worn with a black girdIe
and is trimmed with small cut jet
buttons and with little embroidery
on the coat executed in tiny jet beads
Summer gabardine is a favorite ma
terial and very beautiful one. A
handsome costume that gives evidence
Ct the uses to which embroidery is put
Is made of the material in marine blue
embroidered in cclored woods and this
embroidery is applied upon the collar
Of the blouse, the belt and the bands
The Washington herald., 1914-05-17
S.Hh

ONG straight gathered tunio
are among the very latest de-
veiopments Of the fashionable
world. They are put to fascinat.
ing uses whether made from
lace Aouncing or bordered mar
quisette. and beneath them may be
either q simple plain silk slip or plat.
ings Of silk or net or chiffon or any
thin material or indeed anything that
makes a good effect. for it is effect
that we are seeking and som.
Aouncings will be pretty over a colored
foundation. others over a white. Un-
questionably the simple two-piece
skirt is the correct one for all founda-I
tions but one Of the very latest novel
ties is the accordion plated skirt
beneath the tunic and this full straight
tunic of lace is very charming over
accordion or fat plating of any thin
material in contrasting color.
We have talked great deal about
the fascinating little coates in bright
coiored silks that are to be worn over
white gowns and unquestionably they
contribute their part to the general
picture effect Of the season but re-
Gently there have appeared coats made
Of lace flodncing quite unlined or lined
summeriike in effect and smart in the
extreme. We will not wear a great
deal of summer trimmings this sum-
mcr; that is. lace insets, lace insertion,
lace friIls and the like, but lace hounc-
inss and embroidered Aouncings ara
being put to wonderful uses and. not
infrequently, the two combined. The
silks of summer are 50 thin and light,
60 delightfully."- cool, that We use them
in combination with the most diaph-
anous stuffs. knowing that they will
be comfortable on even midsummer
days, so that everything seems to
contribute to an unusual season and
one of infinite charm and exceptional
possibility.
Extremely attractive dancing and
dinner gowns are shown that combine
shadow lace Houncing with embroid,
cred batiste. The straight under skirt
is of the batiste and over it is tunic
of lace founcing draped at the front
and over it again a shorter tunic OF
narrower houncing on cutaway lines
while the bodice is all Of lace with a
wide girdIe of bright colored ribbon
used as finish. A very fascinating
and very charming afternoon
costumes embroidered wolfe with
taffeta. The wolfe is an extremely,
dainty, fine one and is embroidered
in an exquisite shade of blue and the
taffeta matches this embroidery in
shade. The skirt is of the silk laid in
perfectly fat plaits and the long
straight tunic is of the embroidered
wolfe. The bodiceis of the silk trimmed
with plaitings of the wolfe and it is,
made in the simple kmono style with
fronts extended to form a sash and
this sash is wrapped around the figure
and knotted at the left side.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-17
STREET COSTUMES ARE
UNUSUALLY ATTRACTIVE.
treat Deal of Embroidery is to be Noted
Waistcoats Embroidered with Woods are Some.
what New and Interesting

that trim the skirt. The prominence
of the waistcoat has become almost
self-evident but waistcoats embroid-
cred with woods are somewhat new
and interesting. As is always the
case with any work that is done on
the garment itself, becoming a part
thereof and not merely applied, the
embroidery gives a suggestion OF
elegance that is not otherwise to be
obtained. Just now the fancy is for
rather broad effects, embroidery that
does not mean close work, and women
who are at all skilled with the needle
can do the work without great effort!
Semi-conventional flower effects are
liked for the purpose and the colors;
employed are apt to be bright and
almost vivid insconformity with the
general trend Of the season. Bead
embroidery takes numberless forms
and may be all Of one color q OF vane-
gated colors and. since to accomplish
it, it is only necessary to sew little
beads over a stamped design, 1t does
not seem difficult so long as a good
color model is followed. A fascinating
little coatee of white taffeta to be
slipped on over any lingerie gown is
embroidered on its edges with pale
yellow roses and their tender green
leaves, all executed in the tiniest pos
sibIe crystal beads and the effect is
beautiful beyond words
In its latest development, the street
costume is very fascinating creation
and for it are used a most interesting
variety Of materials. Short, iaunty
little coats that suggest the bolero at
the front share the honors with belted
coats. The poplin weaves are much
used, taffeta is a pronounced favorite
and there are a great many crepe
suitings that are exceedingly smart.
Skirts may be founced or may b
draped but. in one way or another,
every fashionable costume provides
breadth over the hips. Many of the
new skirts are draped at the back u
suggest a hustle effect but such drapery
the most wonderful lowered silks and
lowered crepes and almost uniformly
the house or for the street. are used
they are combined with plain ma
terials.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-17
GARMENTS FOR
OUTDOOR RE-
CREATION ARE
EASY TO MAKE
Shirt Waists or MILDLY
Blouses and Simple
Skirts are Very
Appropriate.

VERY normal woman wants a
variety of summer clothes,
pretty, fluffy. dainty costumes
for the summer dances and for the
piazza and for all similar functions
and simple ones for golf, for tennis
and for mountain climbing. For
these latter every day uses, shirtwaist.
or MILDLY blouses are really essential.
and simple skirts are the only appro-
pirate ones, but we all know that it is
just as essential to have the shirtwaist
and skirt designed for golf cut on smart
lines as it is to have the walking COS
tune made after the latest model
Every one of these skirts gives smart
lines. They are narrow enough 10 be
in style. yet they are not hampering
and you can trudge over the links.
you can reach for tennis balls or climb
steep hill with perfect comfort in any
one of them.
One of the costumes here shows
white crepe in an embroidered design
in the bright colcrs that are known
as futurist and the trimming matches
one Of the shades of green. 1t is a
singularly effective and very charming
costume. yet it means neither much
cost nor much labor.
The young girls MILDLY costume
that is shown next to it gives evidence
of the favor that is shown for striped
material and shows a line of Copen-
hagen blue on background of white
linen. You will notice this blouse is
made with the fashionable raglan
sleeves, and remember when you
think about it that these sleeves are
ideally comfortable as well as smart
The laced closing gives a smart touch
and, as a matter Of course, the color
can be anything you may like. Cerise
is unusually fashionable this summer
and some of the green shades are lovely
on white. while yellow on white always
gives a delightful sense of GOODNESS.
Since yellow this season means an
infinite variety of shades it 10 easy to
find pretty and becoming one.