davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-10-11
Pile Fabrics in Vogue.

VELVETEEN is now made SO light
in weight. SO soft in finish, SO rich
In shades. that it is as popular as vel
vet These fabrics are used for coats.
suits. dresses and separate waists, and
trimmings Of every kind will be used of
plain and novelty velvet. the latter in
cluding rich plaids. stripes, cords.
moired effects and silk embroidered de-
signs. There is handsome long-haired
Blk plush for day coats and evening
capes and cloaks. This material is in
rich. bright shades as well as the more
SOBER browns, dark greens, black and
navy blue. Plush is always rich in
appearance. now they are also light in
weight and in exquisite shades
Fur fabrics are combined with velvet,
broadcloth. silk. cording, wool, velour,
etc. Entire suits are often made Of
these pile fabrics. Their light weight
and flexible texture make them suita
Bile Tor various combinations, even tu-
MICS. as well as collars. cuffs and vests
being constructed of this material The
tiger and leopard effects are made up
into smart Innings for velvet, broad.
cloth and other heavy cloths used for
-o S'
Evening star., 1914-10-11

of the bodice is of bright velvet. the
other half of black tulle and the skirt
of black velvet. Sometimes. too. a
bodice of cerise- or other bright velvet
is combined with a skirt OF black.
Dainty crepe de chine handkerchiefs
are made in white, with co1ored bor-
ders, of pink or blue and very mar
row, hemstitched in place. These
handkerchiefs wash quite as well as
linen ones.
Wide pleated frilling of chiffon Of q
heavy quality Is sold to fasten as an
upright ruche about the neck, with a
narrow velvet ribbon below 1t at the
throat This ruche overlaps itself. SO
it flares out over the chin and up
around the ears.
Some very smart walking boots show
dull calfskin vamps with soft tan
suede uppers. Down the front of each
shoe is a stripe Of heavy tan leather,
through which tan lacings are run.
Net ruching. printed with tiny now-
ers in blue, lavender or pink. is de-
cidedly dainty in a muslin frock for
a little girl. It Is finely pleated and
pulled out to hare at the edge.
striking bunch Of corsage flowers
Is made up of three huge Gala lilies, in
cerise and white velvet. with big yell
low centers and frosted stems. with
brilliant green velvet foliage. The
lilies hang on long stems-half yard
long-from the corsage.
Evening star., 1914-10-11

citizen If she does not know about It.
The reformers who cry out that the
great mass of Americans want to be
economically and conveniently dressed
without reference to Paris styles are
talking like most reformers-purely
from an academic point of view.
Whenthey say that a good citizeness
Of the United States revolts at the idea
Of being dressed like a French courtesan
they are talking from a high moral plane.
The fact Is. that the American citizeness
does not know nor care who she is
dressing like. provided she is not behind
the rest of the world in the adoption of
an accepted fashion.
The reason American women are SO
anxious about fashions is that they did
not know whether the clothes shown dur
ing the first of September were to be
the lasting fashion for winter, or whether
it would be better to wait until October
to see the new French things. If they
bought in September, would they regret
in November? was their problem. Fortu-
nately, something miraculous happened
in the transportation of French gowns
from Europe. because the third week of
September produced the luggage that
many buyers had almost givn up. This
was the answer to the oft-repeated ques-
ton.
One buyer told me Of a shipment ar
Evening star., 1914-10-11
SMART OCTOBER FASHIONS

the back of the coat below the waist
were two rows Of buttons. a little
darker than the covert cloth in shade.
There was wide. loose belt bound
with braid Of the color of the buttons,
and more buttons were used to fasten
the coat and to decorate the belt.
Black and white combined fascinate
womankind. The combination is one
she never can forget. This year it is
shown In as many charming effects as
usual and one brings in blue OF
bright. old-blue shade like a softened
Alice blue, to emphasize the black and
white combination. There is a founda-
tion of white silk checked with wide
bands of black. Over this drops
skirt OF black chiffon, to dull the con-
trast between the black and white. 1t
is edged with q band of blue velvet
quite half yard in depth. There are
long silk sleeves, veiled with full
sleeves Of the chiffon. ending in turn
back cuffs Of the blue velvet embroid-
cred In silver. and there Is a basque OF
the blue velvet. cut in points in front
over the skirt, also embroidered with
silver threads.
An evening frock Of white satin and
lace. iridescent beads and sable
J boasts the shortest Of short sleeves.
Evening star., 1914-10-11

rT is neither idle nor unimportant
to repeat and emphasize the fact
that never in the history of fash
II ions have American women had
the reason to be SO perturbed.
This is the only dominant country to-
day to lend an ear to new clothes.
France is denuded at the moment OF
women who have the slightest inter-
est in what they wear. The butterflies
have gone south. for they have no
money to live in expensive places. and
the majority of them have gone into
retirement. They set the fashions Tor
the world and their leadership is gone.
The English woman has not the style
of the American, and even her richest
elements of society were apt to dress In
a somewhat dowdy fashion. leaving
smart clothes to the footlights and the
resident American element.
The American woman comes nearer
the French than any other in her
handling of smart clothes. The French
admit this with enthusiasm. Each OF
the great dressmakers, as well as the
smart women, say that no set in the
world knows how to dress like the
Evening star., 1914-10-11
FOR THE WOMAN WHO
CROCHETS OR KNITS

HERE are some convenient little
deviceE to make the path of the
woman who crochets or knits pleasant.
One is little attachment of celluloid
to hold the spool of cotton or silk.
This consists of bracelet, from which
is hung little stirrup. the lower bar
Of which slips through the hole in the
center Of the spool.
Another spool holder is made with a
flexible metal bracelet, from which
bangles a chain. to the end of which
is attached a metal spike that is
thrust through the hole in the spool.
Then a movable piece of metal at the
giles to the spike to keep it from slip
ping from its place.
Still another spool holder is a little
reel hanging from two wooden up
rights to hold the spool on a con-
venient table. window sill or arm OF
chair.
There are special little silk bags te
hold crocheting or knitting. bags that
are oval and long enough to accommo.
date the needles.
Evening star., 1914-10-11
Fashionable Wells.

Wells are seen in a variety of de-
signs and meshes and cover only
half Of the face. the end o fthe veil
coming just below the tip of the nose
A great many of them have small
grelots dangling from them, and quite
a few are fringed with dainty black
embroidery or finished with a little
fancy border of chenille dots. These
wells do away with many Objectionable
features found in the long wells, which
entirely cover the face. In cold wealth
er the veil. which covers the mouth,
becomes moistened. freezes. and con-
sequently has a tendency to chap the
lips. The half veil will be appreciated
II only for the reason that it is more
comfortable.
White novelty wells. in unique de.
signs, with color bordered effecta az
we'll as plain white mesh veiiings, are
worn either nose or chin fashion. Hex
agon meshes. decorated with dainty
woven and chenille spots. as we'll az
hlet wells, are worn by smart dressera,
Evening star., 1914-10-11

irving the 22d Of September that she
bought the 18th Of July in Paris. Fortu-
nately, it did not include gowns. for
there were considerable changes in fash
ion after the 9Th Of August. and it is
due to the courage and fortitude of the
buyers who remained until the end Of
August. that America really got the new
est gowns.
Never were French fashions so late
in arriving in. America as this season,
and it was this condition that unsettled
the minds Of the women II only fash
ions were to dominate. or, rather, those
that had come from Paris in August
and had been adapted by American
dressmakers to early September needs,
then we would wear tight skirts, long
full tunics and V-shaped, surplice blouses,
they said.
But possibly something newer might
arrive late in September or first of Octo-
ber. and the purchases of early Septem-
Der would have to be relegated to be-
tween-season frocks. And that is Just
what did happen.
The comfortable part Of it is that the
majority of women have not yet gotten
their clothes, as they do not buy so
early in the season for a variety of
reasons. The tight skirt, the full tunic
and the surplice blouse were shown
and advocated during the hot month Of
Evening star., 1914-10-11
)NE of the new blouses Of chiffon
shows an odd yoke that extends

)NE of the new blouses of chiffon
shows AN odd yoke that extends
~ across the back with a section at
each side reaching down to the waist.
The line it makes is like an inverted
u, and the back Is gathered into the
apex Of the u, and scanned along the
rest of it.
A black chiffon blouse is made with
long white sleeves. They are fastened
into the armholes, with embroidery in
coarse silk floss, white on the black
and black on the white.
Many women shuddered when it was
noted in the summer that covert cloth
was returning to fashionable favor. 1t
used to be such a stin and uncompro-
missing fabric and its color was SO gen.
orally unbecoming that most persons
watched it depart from fashion with
relief. However. 1t has returned. and
| 1t is not unattractive. Fortunately and
wisely. the dressmakers have used 1t
only in smartly tailored coat suits and
separate coats. One suit that was es-
pecially attractive was made with a
long tunic, full at the lower edge. over
| a short and moderately narrow founda-
ton. The coat was cut with a long.
faring peplum. Down the middle OF
Evening star., 1914-10-11

wiched in between the others, and here
and there the tunic may develop into a
redingote, but to the onlooker 1t seems
as though America will choose the tu-
mic.
Summing up the situation, it is this:
The skirt which is tight at the hem is
not fashionable in France except for
both Worth and Pemeot-can you i'm
agine two greater opposites?-contrive
to put a good deal of fullness in some
of their most important evening gowns.
The skirt which is wide at the hem
1T not yet accepted in America, al
though the full tunic has been lowered
until it dominates the lower garment
You can choose between them. One
thing is certain. If you will be fash
ionable. you must not have an evening
gown with a short, tight skirt and a
long, full tunic.
Evening star., 1914-10-11
Bran for Cleaning.

FEW people seem to know the value
of dry bran for cleaning purposes.
You may keep q wool suit or coat In
the best condition for q long time
by simply rubbing down with dry
bran. Rub the spots harder than tn .
rest, then brush 1t all on. saving -
cost Of sending to q cleaneH
Evening star., 1914-10-11

September at a time when few people
wanted to bother with the subject of
apparel: today the styles are practically
settled. and you know that the new sill
houette widens from waist to hem and
continues in a straight line from hips to
shoulders. So you can go ahead!
buy it. 1t shows beneath the tunic
sufficiently to make a sharp compari-
son in width. and it can be easily drop
ped later in the season II the full skirt
wins out. Without French leadership
it is difficult to say what will be worn.
or rather what dominant note will be
struck in fashions. 1t will be inter-
esting to watch the development.
Evening star., 1914-10-11

Last summer France and America
united on two styles; the long pleated
tunic and the long wrinkled basque.
France has discarded both, because
they got too common, but America still
clings to them. None of the new gowns
shown by American dressmakers have
the long wrinkled basque, although it
developed into an exceptionally attrac-
tive garment, but every one shows the
long, full tunic. A gown with full
skirt, minus the tunic, may be sand
Evening star., 1914-10-11

Jenny. a well known dressmaker to
the Parisienne who has arisen in Amer
ican popularity within two months,
makes blue serge gown that has a
short satin underskirt and a short far
ing overskirt in the same length. She
also makes a slightly full satin skirt
that covers the instep, with a very full
Evening star., 1914-10-11

There are various ways of obtaining
the desired f1atness. 1t is not all
question Of hip yokes. There are box
pleats running from waist to hem;
there are long pointed segments Of
cloth that run nearly to knees which
divide the fullness and keep it away
from the hips; there are plastered bits
Of barbaric embroidery. from which
spring circular sides that flare at the
hem. Each of the French dressmakers
has a different way of maintaining
smoothness just below the waist, and
to these original methods the Ameri.
cans have added.
One Of the fashions that France in.
troduced last June Is the foundation
stone Of all the clothes of today. This
is the long. straight upper part of the
gown which sometimes develops into a
tunfc, or which ends at the wide sash
placed over the hips.
There is nothing strikingly new
about this chemiselike bodice. for it
has been worn continuously for three
months. but the dressmakers exploited
1t in the new clothes. and We shall
doubtless wear 1t until Christmas II
anything newer is invented it will
probably come from an American
atelier, for there is no reason to sup
pose that France will produce new
ideas In the nearby months; there are
quite enough over here now to satisfy
even the most exacting woman.
It is probable that this long, child
like garment-for 1t really is juvenile
which has slim simplicity as its
foundation. and is called Moyen-age for
want of a better term. will prove an
obstacle to good appearance as
much as the over full skirts will do,
but II care is taken with it, and at
tentfon paid to the way 1t is cut and
trimmed. the general result will not
be as bad as prophesied.
One sees the garment in every fabric.
and 1t will be unfortunate if one sees
It on every figure. 1t. like all the
fashions for the last four years. is
primarily intended for the modern fig
ure that has been developed through
FASHION. or the other way around-no
one knows which
1t takes a skillful dressmaker to i'm.
pose slfmly cut, slightly trimmed,
straight garment that hangs from
shoulders to below knees, on a figure
that is well rounded and flesh padded.
It may make the stout woman look
thinner II the material is soft and the
line Of the sash is placed exactly right.
but otherwise there is danger ahead.
Evening star., 1914-10-11

Parisienne except our well dressed
women. Therefore the perturbation in
this country. We love dress over here;
our ,tradespeople make millions out of
this fondness; our newspapers and
magazines treat 1t as subject Of i'm
portance We are a nation Of shoppers.
In no other country is the literature
of dress so widely disseminated. SO
eagerly read. so seriously taken.
Here every one wants to, dress accord
ing to the fashions, deny 1t though one
may They may not confess to curl
osity, but all they say and do disproves
the lack Of 1t. Outside of a few great
cities in Europe and South America
the mass of women treat clothes from
the standpoint Of economy and con-
venience, leaving the exclusive sweep
of fashion to. handful who make a
business of dressing well. In America
the situation is entirely different. Ru-
raj free delivery takes the latest fash
ions, the fabrics and the patterns to
the woman who does her own work.
If tunics are the fashion she wears
them. II tight skirts go out she feels
cheated Of her rights as an American
Evening star., 1914-10-11

back as do the full skirts made by
Premet. but when 1t has a sharply cut,
even line. 1t is awkward.
There is no reason against lifting II at
each side. Try this method and you Will
find 1t distinctly successful.
The American woman may not care to
adopt the extra shortness of the new
full skirt which undoubtedly gives it
cachet. but she should see to 1t that
as much Of her ankles are exposed as
her tastes allow. With the present
fashion Of wearing extra high. laced
or buttoned boots with cloth and suede
tops. there is no reason for a woman
to object to a skirt four and a half
inches from the floor. The fashionable
skirt is fully six inches short.
If the American woman decided to
take up with the full skirt before Christ
mas arrives she must not go at It reck-
lessly. There are certain things for her
to know and avoid before she allows her
material to be slashed.
First comes the question Of length.
Unless she determines that It shall be
short she must take out some Of the
contemplated fullness. If her hips are
small she can afford a plain back with
circular sides. but If she is broad across
the hips she must see to it that the
skirt falls in circular folds from tho
DaCk OF the corset
No style has yet been invented that
could make the large woman appear so
large as this new skirt with its plainly
drawn back. its widely fiaring circular
sides and front, or sometimes a pleated
front dividing the circular sides. You
can quickly see what a wide line 10
given across the figure, back and front
The front is able to stand it better than
the back.
Another error that is easily fallen into
is swinging upward movement Of the
middle front Of such a skirt. This ugli-
ness happens even under the hands of
the best regulated dressmakers. The
weight and fullness of the material
causes this sagging at the sides and
back. and. although one does not object
to an irregular hem. 1T must come
through foreknowledge and not through
bad workmanship.
None Of the dressmakers advocate
fullness over the hips. Here and there
one sees isolated cases of hip drap-
cry, but the newest fashions do not
call for it. In all the best gowns Cor
street and evening the hips are fat
tened out, as though they had been
pressed with a hot iron. This is to
acoentuate the fullness at knees and
hem.
TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1914-09-08

bic mir finben tonntsn, unb iu6ten
banH nod cine 3sit lang uutsr ben
5riimmern.
Der ypatbfinber4 mar elm arsu3er
Don 5000 Conner Replacement. gr
mar sttpas tleiHsr als Der britif6s
arsu3er r4mpbion", Der in sIsi6er
Weiis am 6. Quguit serifDrt ipurbs.
er mar BON iebr GROCER G.idpinbis.
teit unb fir ben aunbi9afterbisnit
sebaut. gr mar bas Sylassi6iff fir
cine Slotile BON 5prpeooboot,er.
itOrern, bic IN i6Ottifaen GsipGFsrn
ftationirt mar.
GonbDn, 7. Sept. - 4m Q6eno
tpurbe offi5iea ansetiinbigt, bab BEL
Dem untergdns bes areu3ers patbfirs
Der in Der NorbIee prei Mann aetDS.et,
or.i5ebn pernunbet purben uns
242 DsrmiBt perosn. SieIe 242 iinD
lls tobt 3u 6etracbten.
TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1914-09-08
0er britiide 6rem5er
Warrior"

sc @titrdnbet als er aus BEN
8osporus 5u enttOm-
men perfudte.
ID afbtngton .. G., z. Gspt.
Cine s5untsncepsids aus gerIin an
bic bisiias beatfde gOtIacft iast:
Der britiide strsussr .WarriOrs
lit gefsranbsi, uls CT aus benz gospo.
rus su enitOmnsn DsrTaats ipaars
i9einlid nad einsm Gefsdt init benz
areu3er .@Osben1.
Die DepsTds, sntbdli ni4ts ipeitsr.
ipas bic atnpeisHbsit bss briiiidsu
areusera TN gospOrus ertldrsn mir.
BE-. Der .WurtiOr1 III Elm panssr.
lrsusss Don 1850 ssnasu us,S nit,
TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1914-09-08
Ser 9ampfer Nieutu.
Wmfteroant
wirb Sase lang in greit
feftdefulten

I
&utterbam, 7. Sept. glm
glbenb puroe bier betannt, baB Der
9ampfsr .Hisup 9miterbqm" bon
Der boudnOii9 ameritnniiden 81.
ME BON osm franaDIiIden Silfstreu-
ger n2e Sapoie" natb Brett gebraft
uno bort bier Gage lang Suriifse6al-
tell poroen, auleBt aber freigelaiIen
lporoen lei unO am 9ienitag in gtot.
teroam anfDmmen piroe.
Sruppenbepesung in
9elgien.
2onbon, Z. Sept. Sine Depe.
ite aus 9riiiTel fa0t, baB am Sonnz
taa elm itartes beuti6es &orps bon
9riiiiel aus in nDroIidler Ri6tuug
stuifhen 2lntperpen unb gbent a6s
sing. 0eute tit oller Selegrap6en.
unb Giienba6nDertebr nit picIen
StdOten unterbroHen.
9pnbon, 8. Sept. - Cine De-
peibe bes Reuter'Ifsu Bureaus aus
Sitenb iagt:
Gin beftiges flint GtunSen BAIT
crnoes 8efed)t 6at sfpif6en lGeae uao
Auutre6t, bel @jbent 5ptI9en betgil
i6eH 5reiIpilligcn uno cinem oil 2abl
iiberlegenen DsiltiGen &orps Itctsocz
funben. Radl befttgem g8ioeritann 5rs
gen ii9 Die 9elsier il; gutter Sros
nune Suriif.
Die 9eutf6en haben WleGe beIebt
unb mariaieren arf Gbent gu.
SsrreGte SliigeIber Geuts
f6en beprpbt9
2onbon. 7. Sept. - Die pfFis
sieue fraHsDiiI9e Radricbt, RAP bic
DeutIden iih auf Der 2inie gtanieut.z
iesSoubpuin bis @erbun auriidsoasn,
f6eint dn5ubeuten, oub eine Itarte
britiId, fran5DiiI9e 9lrmee 6inter
bem re6ten sSliisel Der beutI6en Orr
NEE TT, bic 0itli9 BON paris oorbeI.
mdrihtrt lit unb in Iii61Itlic1er gttcbs
tuna marf6trte, I'm iib nit Der Irs
mec oes beutf9en &ronprin5en gu pers
einigen.
Gs ptrb dnseosutet bdb es cine
ueue britiIcb fron50iiTte 2lrmee lit,
bic bon Der aiiite i'm gorben tDn-
menb, Der Mrmee bes Generals bon
&Iud IN ben Hiideu geldngt III. Der
admpf beganH am Spnntas, unb
fchpn am Spnntag Ibenb ioIl Der
@idsus Der Dsuticben bsGDunsn has
ben,
TaÌˆgliches Cincinnatier volksblatt. [volume] (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1885-1919, 1914-09-08
Mlbaaiem
Wieber in tiirfifdem 9.
fir.


2onbon, 7. Sept. 4us &olond.
albanien, pirb gemeloet, oub bort
am Montag eine boaitdnbige tiirtiids
Regierung etablirt porben lei. Sc.
nGbb bin Sen, ein ebemaliser thrift.
i6er 8ealnter, pirb uls Gpuperneur
an bic Stelle bsr prupiToriftben Rs-
gierung treten, fpel9e Die Staatssea
i9afte ibsrnabm, als Bring Wilbelm
DDn DieD oa5 2ano Osrlieb.
GOm, 7. Sept. Cine 9epeffe
ans Sura55o iagt, bab mon bort bi:
Hiidfebr bes friibsren albanif9en
&riessmtniiters Gfaab paI6a er.
pdrte. WsaH glau6t, buB er fofprt
Offi3iell Webmeb 8u9ane Gbbine Gf-
fenbi SUbn bes friiberen tiirtiideu
Sultaus 9lbbul 9amiD, gum &Dnig
prn 4lbanieH ausrufen tpirb. gllba.
MEN ion unabbdnsis DON Der Siirtei
blei6en, ober DON etuem Mubammeba-
ner regiert Derben. 8ubane Gffenbi
lit erit 90 Sahre aIt.