davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
By Heath.

khaki uniform. They had with them
a bull dog.
Hohl met an acquaintance and
asked for information regarding a
route to Pittsburgh, stating that he
and his wife were hiking for the bene-
fit of their health. When shown q
picture of the Salem woman to-day,
three different persons were positive
the picture was that of the woman in
khaki uniform yesterday.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
WANTS STANDARD RAISED

Saratoga, n. T., June Iy.-The climb
nation of fake music teachers is the
object of proposed legislation outlined
to-day before the New York State
e. Freund. of New York city, who
urged the need of raising the standard
of the profession by requiring regis
tration with the Secretary of State of
all persons who desire to give instruc-
ton In any branch of music.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
Death by Probable
Drowning" Is Verdict
in McCarrick Case
Bv Associated p,esr

Philadelphia, June 19.-An open
verdict of death by probable drown
ing" was returned by the coroners
jury here to-day in the case of Warren
McCarrick, whose body was found in
the Delaware river last Tuesday. The
boy disappeared from his home three
months ago.
Funeral services for the boy were
held this afternoon at the home of his
parents.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
NOMINATIONS FORWARDED
By Associated Prets

Washington, D. c., June 10. =
Among the nominations of consuls
sent to the Senate to-day were the
following: William L. Jenkins Gwyn-
edd, Pa, at Guadalupe West Indies;
George S. Messersmith, of Dover Del.
at Fort Erie, Ont, Canada Harry e..
Seltzer. Hamburg, Pa, at Breslau,
Germany.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
PLANS 32-STATE TOUR

Walter F. Walker. of Bridgeport.
Conn, Is making motorcycle busi-
ness tour which will cover thirty-two
states He is representing a motor
cycle accessory concern and by riding
the two-wheeler himself he is able to
easily demonstrate to his prospects the
value of the appliances. Walker has
q sidecar attachment to his motorcycle
in which he carries supplies
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
LETTERS ON REEME ESTATE

Letters on the estate of S. A. Reeme,
who died in Penbrook a few days ago.
were issued this afternoon to his
daughters, Mrs. Bess Reeme Osborn
and Mrs. Emma Appaleman, the ex-
ecutrices.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19

New York, June 19.-Major Barrett
is one of the greatest players in the
game to-day, and can hardly be
equaled in his position. He is very
tricky player and is constantly doing
the unexpected.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
THE PEERLESS LEADER

Is the Behr Bros. Player. The quality
goes in before the name goes on.
Spangler, Sixth above Maclay.-Ad-
vertisement.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
NEW REFINED TONE

Is characterized in the Behr Bros
player See them at once. Spangler.
Sixth above Maclay.-Advertise
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19
HIGHEST TYPE

HIGHEST TYPE
OF player piano construction, Behr
Bros. Spangler, Sixth above Maclay.
Advertisement.
Harrisburg telegraph. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, 1914-06-19

the unexpected
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

coarse weavings are more in keeping
with the work than the finer ones
Both silks and embroidery cotton,.
which give fat appearance, are suit
able for working mediums. Crewel
woods, though not so fat looking. work
up very effectively for some purposes,
The colors for foundation material,
are preferably ecru. biscuit, Whitley
brown tint. cream, ivory, and tussore
shades although more definite colo.,
may be employed. as taste dictates.
. Respecting colors for working. il in
silk, not more than four should be
used. or three shades Of one color; in
cotton, not more than three different
oolors ara advisable. Two shades Of
blue and one of golden yellow, on a
white foundation. have a charming
effect. Dark. blue and red is a
favorite combination. also rather light
yellowish green and dark blue. and
a quartette Of coiors. blue. green.
red and orange look well.
In working always cut the en-
broidery cotton; do not break it. and
every now and then give it twist, 50
that it does not come untwisted in
working.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15
PROBLEMS IN
DRESSMAKING
fCortinred from Last Colunn-)

(Coutinred from Last Colunn)
pieces to make the necessary width
and press the seams open with care.
Then undertake the front and lower
edges with bias strip of material one
and one-half inches in width and
stitch one inch within the edge to
match exactly the front and armhole
edges. For this undertaking. you can
use either the fancy or the plain ma
terial or a thinner silk of matching
color and. as the latter is likely to b.
the preferred material, there has been
no allowance made for it in the dia-
gram. To form the plaits in the tuuic.
fold on the lines Of smaller perfora.
tions and lap over until they just meet
the oenters Of the large perforations
but do not cover the latter. Baste
the plaits into place Gather the
tunic between the double crosses AMI
join to the belt with the center backs
together and the edges of the tunic
at the double perforatioas which
should exactly meet the edges of the
side front portions Of the blouse To
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

Join the tunic to the belt, slip the edge
between the outside and the lining.
adjust the gathers carefully, baste and
stitch.
Before making the collar and the
chemisette, attach. whatever fasten-
ings you will use. In the picture, but
tons and simulated button-hoIes are
used for the trimming only and the
snap fastenings are sewed beneath
the hem but. instead Of these, you can
use hooks and eyes or hooks and loops
or any similar fastenings that you may
like. In this particular instance, the
chemisette and collar are made from
lace three inches wide and lace is ex-
ceedingly pretty and dainty for the
purpose but lust now we are using a
great deal Of plain net lined with
itself and if you prefer the material, it
will be necessary only to cut two por-
tons of each and to line one with the
other and then to proceed exactly
according to directions Join the
notched edges Of the collar and attach
the collar supports over the seam,
and at the center back Lap the right
side of the chem'sette over. the left
with the large perforations meeting
and baste into place; then arrange
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15
NOTES for the HOME NEEDLE WOMEN

Bulgarian designs are somewhat
crude, consisting chiefly Of unnatural
looking leaf. wheel, bar, or heart
shapes, with flowers or fruit Of some
what solid appearance introduced as a
variety. y
Flat stitches are invariably en-
ployed. no padding being allowed. and
judicious variety Of treatment j.
advisable 50 as not to destroy a Ger
tain uniformity Characteristic OF the
work.
All kinds Of silk, linen and cotton
materials. Of an evenly woven, and
not close texture. are suitable. and the
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15
PROBLEMS IN DREsSMAKING
HOW TO MAKE ONE OF THE
NEW WAISTS WITH BIG ARMHoLEs

nRESENT fashion, are really
ideal for the home dress
:. maker. The newest and
smartest waists and bIouses are loose
and the sleeves are joined to them
at big armholes IL they are not cut
in japanese style and. as result.
there is no fitting. Nothing is snug.
everything is designed to hang loosely
and to pouch under the arms: con-
sequentIy, all the difficulties that
might bcset the amateur disappear.
This fancy waist with tunic makes
an excellent example Of the prevailing
style and the general directions that
are given for its making will apply
to others Of a similar sort. In pur-
chasing your pattern. be quite GER
tain to obtain the correct size. II
your waist is either longer or shorter
than the average or normal woman.
a little change will be required in the
pattern to meet the condition but
no other can be needed. Never cut
off or add to a waist at the lower edge:
90 doing only spoils the lines and it is
upon the lines that the smartnes, Of
every garment depends.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

foulard and which illustrates big arm
holes Of a different sort. 1t is very
charming made Of the lowered and
plain silk and every woman knows
that foulard is one Of the most useful
of summer fabrics but it could be
reproduced in cotton crepe, cotton
voile or almost any Of the seasons
fabrics, for one and all Of them provide
very beautiful and attractive contrasts.
In this instance, the sash matches the
center of the flowers, so accentuating
that color and giving an exceedingly
good result.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

and the ends of the collar at the single
perforations in the chemisette; baste
into position and stitch the right side
into place and the left to the edge OF
the chemisette. From that point to
the end, bind it with tiny little strip
Of fine lawn or batiste and sew hook
to the end of the collar and an eye
under the chemisette to hook it into
place.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

Draped skirts and tunics are sharing
the honors. Both are correct. We
may wear whichever we choose or We
may combine the two, for not infre-
quently, one sees a short tunic over
peg top skirt, but the pretty effect OBJ
tained by the costume at the extreme
right would be somewhat spoiled by
anyaddition. Thelines are all graceful
and the blouse with its raglan sleeves
and dainty little vest and chemisette
is exceedingly charming.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

I.-Cond, and CLersi,es. on Laes
Folded Crosylpiss.
2.-TEe Center Fron. os Materia'
Folded Lengthviss.
3.-Ose Sleeve on Adieyia, ~ Iseb<s
the under-arm and sleeve seams, using
the double or French seam described
in a previous lesson. Whether the
sleeves are long or short. finish them
with straight over-facing, Of the plain
material Of any width you may desire
but two and one-half inche, u a good
one. To do this, cut strips Of the
necessary length and join the ends
Then seam one long edge Of each to
the edge of one sleeve with the seam,
meeting and with the right side facing
the wrong side Of the sleeve. Turn
up over the sleeve and turn the upper
edge under and baste and stitch as IN .
the illustration one-half inch within
each edge. As the next step gather
the blouse at the lower edge between
the double crosses. Cut a lining for
the belt. Turn the seam allowance ou
each long edge under and baste. Ar
range the outer portion Of the bait
over the blouse on the right side
with ths center back, together, the
large perforations in the belt se the
center front and the smiller perform
tons meeting the under-srm seams,
and cut the left side Of the belt Of at
the double perforatioas. Arrange the
lining of the belt over the under aide
Of the blouse in exactly the sams way,
then baste into place and stitch through
all the thieknesses As close to<he upp~
edge as possible.
Lay the blouse aside and prepsss
the tunic. To do this, first join ths
For Balances Of Lsaso sss Fins- -csiunaJ
- .,i~i.A NJ
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

ITO be smart, the sleeves Of the
costume must be loose and
droop somewhat under the
arms. Other details may be more
or less open to choice but loose sleeves
make the rule. In some instances,
the effect is obtained by the use Of
the raglan model; in others again, the
blouse shows the genuine japanese or
Ikinono cut but. among the very
newest and most interesting costumes,
the sleeves that are joined to the gar
ment at very big armholes are con-
Ipicuous.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

II this particular waist proves to Be
too long wasted. lay a tuck in the
front and one in the back Of the pat
tern half way between the shoulder
edge and the extension that forms the
under-arm portion and let this tuck
take up exactly the excessive length.
Then lay your pattern over the sleeve
and take up tuck in the front of the
sleeve and one in the back at exactly
the same points and at exactly the
same depth. tapering to nothing.
to fit the altered waist: the size Of the
sleeves should not be changed more
than necessary. To shorten them lay
tuck just below the elbow. Lay a
little tuck in the center front
portion at exactly the same
point and Of exactly the same width
and all the changes will have been
made and you can go on cutting and
making without any further thought
as 10 the fit.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

line On the envelope. you are told
to lay the belt on the crossvi,e fold
but. for this particular material, IL
viii be more economical to make A
seam at the back and. since It Is covered
by girdle. it will not show; hence you
win cut two pieces from the portions
left from around the fronts of the pep
lum and join the edges. The back Of
the collar is laid on the crosswise fold
Of the lace to bring the finished edge
at the top and the long straight edge
Of the remaining portion and the
notched edge Of the ehemisette are
laid lengthwise on the lace. Should
you wish elbow sleevS, cut the sleeve
pattern through on the cross line Of
perforations before placing it on the
material.
After you have pinned the variJds
parts Of the pattern into place On tn.
different materials. trace all around
the outside edges to get the correct
basting line and mark all the perfora-
tons and notches with the tracing
wheel or tailor's chalk. Cut beyond
the outside edge Of your pattern a,
far as the special material makes neces-
sary for seam.
Take out all thypins and remov.
the pattern. Then make all the mark
irgs through to the under side by
means Of the tailor's tacks which hav.
been described in a former lesson.
After separating the under from tn.
upper portions Of the blouse, lay the
peplum aside until needed.
First finish the neck edge Of tn.
oenter-front and back portions. To
do this, cut bias strips Of plain silk
one-half inch in width Fold at the
. center. Turn the seam allowance on
the neck edge under and arrange over
your double fold, leaving one-eighth OF
an inch beyond the neck edge Of the
blouse; baste and stitch into place.
Since the blouse is to be closed at the
left side, there must be fastenines Of
some sort attached to the front por-
ton and it will be easier to prepare
for this before the side-fronts are ar
rangedoverit; therefore, undertake the
leftside with a straight strip of material
one and one-quarter inches in width
when it will be strong enough for the
buttons or whatever form of closing
you may use As the next step turn
the front edges of the side fronts under
on the perforations and turn the seam
allowance under to form inturns; baste
and stitch the left side one inch within
the folded edge. Arrange both side
fronts over the center-front with the
edges at the perforation, and bases
into place Stitch the right side on.
inch within the edge through both the
side-front and the center-front. Join
the shoulder edges of the side-front,
and the back Of the blouse. Then cut
bias strips of the material one and one
half inches in width and under-fac.
the armhole edges. making the stitch
ing one inch within the edge to ma.el
the front portions. Remove the bast-
ings and press Lap the blouse over
the sleeves with the finished edges at
the perforations; baste carefully and
stitch into place one inch within each
edge to match the front portions. Clos.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

and Tanie on Materiai Folded Length
pfse.
Combinations Of materials are being
so much used this season that am
showing this waist made of plain and
figured silks twenty-scven inches wide
with a tiny little chemisette and Medici
collar Of lace. There are four diagram,
because, while the sleeves and the
front arc of one material, the sleeves
will require the entire width and tn.
center front portion must be cut on tn.
fold. When using figured material.
you must cut the two sleeves scpa-
rately. taking care that the figures
run in the same direction. II you fold
the material crosswise to cut the two
at once, you will have the figures run
ming up in one sleeve and down in the
other. We show one only. To cut
the second sleeve. reverse the pattern.
Turn it over from side to side, leaving
the shoulder and wrist edges in the
same relative position and bringing
the side Of the pattern that, in the
6rst instance, is placed against the
silk uppermost in the seconi instance.
The fronts, back and tunic are all
made Of the plain silk. The back il
laid on the fold and the front is 50
shaped that in the plain silk. which
has no up and down. it can be laid
as shown in the illustration, 50 pro-
viding real economy in the cutting
but. II you were using material with
up and down, it would be necessary
to cut thes. front portion, separately
because there would not be width
enough left over from the back for the
wide lower portions. The back Of tn.
peplum is cut on the fold Of the ma
terial but twenty-seven inch goods is
not wide enough to cut it all in one
piece and the dotted line indicates
where the seIvage edges come and you
must cut the front pieces separately
and join the edges on this straight
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

inside the CENTER rout portion of the
blouse with the edge Of the blouse at
the lines Of perforations; haste into
position and sew carefully into place
along the neck edge. taking small
stitches through the undertaking
only. To Join the collar to the neck
edge, let the seam allowance extend
under the blouse and take care that
the center backs come exactly together
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

color in equal width, are extremely
fashionable and combine most effect
lively with plain color. The costume
showing this effect also shows one of
the newest sleeves and an unusually
pretty and becoming neck finish. In
the picture. it is made of cotton voile
while it shows white with an exquisite
shade Of grayish green and the black
sash gives just the note of strong color
that is essential this season.
To the left Of the costume /. a
young girls frock that is made Of
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

THE preference for strong colorins
and bold designs in embroidery
shows itself in the recent re-
vival of Bulgarian work. which is
applied to collars, cuffs, yokes and
belts of washing and other dresses in
a very effective manner. 1t is easy
and rapid in execution. and when the
correct coloring and stitchery are
applied. there is certain distinctive
bold character about Bulgarian en-
broidey. which has always won api
provaL Moreover. it not only looks
well. but wears well. and Is inexpensive
IN working.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15

By one method or another, we must
be broad over the hips, but when we
have accomplished that effect and
loose sleeves, the rest of the costume
will quite surely be correct As a
matter of course, the narrow skirts
give the effect of being drawn in about
the feet.
lr this picture are shown some Of
the newest and smartest models and.
incidentally, some of the most fash
ionable fabrics. What arc known as
awning stripes, or stripes of white and
The Washington herald., 1914-03-15
q :z.:Zz.E::;

4.-Ths Fronts and Back of Blo1ss
and Tanie on Materidi Folded Length
pfse.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1914-07-25
BEEF PRICES WILL Be HIGHER
Shortage of Cattle on Kansas
City Market Acute.

Kansas City-The situation in the
Kansas City cattle market is one of
acute shortage. Thus far, this year,
10000 fewer cattle have been mar
keted than in the same period in 1913,
the smallest receipts during any sim
liar period in more than twenty
years. This decrease is attributed to
the drought last summer.
Another crop of prime corn fed
beeves cannot be made until the 1914
corn crop is available, which will not
be sooner than the middle of NoYem-
Der. In the meantime, the demand
must be supplied from grass fed cat
tie, and, owing to the excellent con-
dition Of the grass in the entire range
country, cattIemen will be a month to
six weeks late in marketing. In many
cases cattle will be held until snow
drives them from the range.
July cattle prices are the highest
ever known for this month. Prime,
thick-feshed, corn fat steers sold up
to 1915 recently and heifers, up to
$3.50; steers from below the quaran-
tine line, up to S8S5, a new high rec
ord for all time in that class, and
Kansas grass fed steers were sold up
to $500 a hundred.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1914-07-25
CONDENSED NEWS ITEMS

Members of the Judiciary commit
tee of the senate and house believe
the President will offer the place on
the supreme court bench made vacant
by the death of Mr.. Justice Lurton to
Attorney General McReynolds. 1t is
reported the tender Of the position
will be made in a short time.
Protests against the definitions Of
unfair practices" contained in the
Clayton antitrust bill, as it passed
the house, were lodged with President
Wilson by a delegation of business
men from Kansas City, headed by
R. A. Long, Charles S. Keith and J. B.
White
Charges that the Kansas farmers
are losing five cents a busheI in the
marketing Of export wheat in Kansas
City have been made by some of them,
and Dudley DooIittle, representative
from the Fourth District, has intro
duced a resolution for congressional
investigation.
Secretary Bryan has announced
that he will sign a peace commission
treaty with Minister De Pena of Uru-
quay soon, and that he will sign SINH
lar pacts with the Argentine Repub-
lie, Brazil and Chile. Before August !,
Mr. Bryan will send about twenty Of
these peace treaties to the senate for
ratification.
Two persons were killed, several
others injured and scores Of buildings
damaged when a cyclone struck Hen
dercOD XIV IF iS estimated tho dam
age will reach $4,000. The munich
pal electric light plant was partly de-
stroyed, and the city was in darkness.
For five hours the senate in execu-
tive session fought over the issue OF
making public the testimony OF
Thomas D. Jones of Chicago, nominee
for member of the federal reserve
board, before the banking and cur
rency committee which voted recent
" not to recommend his confirmation.
Seven hundred marines have been
ordered assembled at Guantanamo,
Cuba, to be held in readiness for ser
vice in revolution torn Haiti and Santo
Domingo.
Senator j. A. Reed of Missouri at
tackled the administration Interstate
Trade Commission b I on the floor OF
| the senate He urgad that the inter
state commerce committee and the ju-
dietary committee, OF which he is q
member, get together to work out
/ trust legislation jointly with cohsoli-
dalton of all pending measures on the
subject in view.
The Hays free press. [volume] (Hays, Kan.) 1908-1924, 1914-07-25
CONVICT NINE swlNDLeRS
Chicago Mercantile Agency Was Ae-
cused in Federal Court of Using ..
Mails to Defraud.

Chicago.-Nine defendants accused
of using the mails to defraud in con-
nection with the Barr & Widen Mer-
camille Agency were found guilty by
a jury before Federal Judge Lands.
They are: Abram H Freeman, SUI
perintendent of agents, Chicago;
Frederick Wendler, general manager
in the St Louis office; Charles F.
Day, Kansas City; James T. Mine
hart, Robert H. Fender, Pittsburgh;
Joseph Stevens, Kansas City; w. W.
FeTlers, Kansas City; ]. H. Woman,
St. Louis, and Joseph F'inkleman, st.
Louis
The government charged that more
than 1 million dollars had been real
lied by the company through its bus
mess methods. The government con-
tended that the Barr & Widen Agency
would learn the names of creditors OF
bankrupts and then send them letters
agreeing to collect the claims, usual
ly suggesting that the bankrupt had
concealed assets. Large fees were
received and the creditors got little
returns