davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25
SEPARATE SKIRTS FASHIONABLE
1L Arc Ruche Trimmed and Bustlc or Cascade Draped-
Some Hayc Scaloped Flounccs and Others Have
Pleated Ru1les

end another is irregularly caught up
at sides and back. An appealing phase
o. the ripping scheme is expressed in
a black satin skirt-sometimes worn
with black maline evening bodice
whose bias flouncc edged draperies,
parted in front by the single sash end
Of an deliberately embroidered girdIe,
fall in gradually widening waves to-
ward the back
Looped Skirts Good Style.
Premet's looping distinguishes many
separate skirt in SATIN, drap Altesse
or crepe, but il is seen at its happicst
in a very elaborate black taffets spe-
cially designed for use with sheer
blouses in net, lace or chiffon. Into
tablier hip yoke. ruche-shirred at
the waist and crossing the front only,
is gathered a part of a skirt whose
sides and back run into plain girdle.
It's draping scheme produces a semi
balloon effect about the knees, below
which the silk olings in horizontal
folds which gracefully merge with
long-fslling waves of material. This
model stands out as among the clev-
crest of the draped separate skirts and
as type becoming to almost any fig.
ure.
Another intsngibly graceful draping
shows in a separate skirt in black
moire, whose cascaded sides start
under a peplum which crosses the
front and sides and at back runs into
waterfall pleats. This skirt is intended
solely for evening wear, as is also a
blue taffeta gathered evenly all round
into waist band. very scant about
the ankles and at the hips trimmed
with narrow-headed and very full
aounce, ending at the knees in deep
scallops.
With Hcsdless FIounee,
White cloth, serge and gabardne
separate tailored skirts show the
Premet or the hustle back draping and
few have the cascade. Smartest OF
all these garments, however, is the one
in gabardine, trimmed from base OF
hips to half way between the knees
and the ankles with headess flouncc
laid in broad box plests set widely
apart.
The position OF this founce may be
lowered or lifted to best become the
individual wcarer of the skirt, but it
serves, as must all the superimposed
trimmings of the hour, TO cut the sill
houette into sections. Its position at
the hips is important because, placed
too high, it makes those recently re-
suscitsted portions of the feminine
anatomy appear wider than Nature in
tended them TO look and also shortens
the waist line. On the other hand,
hounce set low on the hips Of
skirt fitting smoothly at its top makes
the hips appear narrower and the
waist line more slender.
Black Skirt, White Jacket
A black taffets skirt has the mar
rowcst Of drawn in and drawn up
ruche finished understands, covered TO
below the knees with an exaggeratedly
full founce, shirred on at the hips with
heading, thus giving the figure a
slender appearance. The little slip on
Jacket in white gabardine fastens with
outstanding ball buttons and a rolling
collar and cuffs in white tsffeta. This
costume is chsrmingly Offset by q
white aisrette trimmed cerise straw
hat.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25
Maids Uniforms
Correct Morning Attire Light
Chambray, Dark Saline
for Afternoon.

WHETHER a household is run
w on large or small scale,
properly dressed servants arc
: question of forethought and care
rather than expense. Mattresses in a
small household as a rule wear white
linen. or blue or pink chsmbray
dresses. After the heavy morning
work Is done, the waitress generally
changes to dark blue, plum or black
dress. if guests are expected for
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25

the chambermaid waits at the table
and takes charge in the pantry.
On the cooks day of the laundress
takes charge OF the dinner. which the
cook has left as nearly prepared as
possible, and the chambcrmaid as
sists her all she can.
The chambermaid occupies herself
cleaning and keeping the house IN Or
der. one day devoted to each floor,
with daily busting and brushing up all
over. giving special care to the bed
rooms and the bathrooms.
Cares for Linen.
The chambermaid cares for the
soiled and also the clean linen. She
should devote one afternoon a week
to nending her linen. On her day
out the laundress assists in the pantry
in her place. turns down the beds and
takes hot or cold water to the rooms
at bed time, as the family custom may
require.
First Aid to Servants.
Now that we have outlined their
main duties, let us see what modern
invention has placed in the hands OF
servants for first aids" While the
electric kitchen is still rather rare
there are a good many things con-
trolled by electricity in many kitchens.
The electric washing machine
washes the heavy as well as the fine
things, and runs while the laundress
is doing other things. The electric
driver, iron and improved mang,c
help 10 make wash day less OF toll
some thing to look forward to than IN
former years.
Tho Silent Helpers.
In the kitchen there is the electric
butter churn and ice cream freezer.
meat and nut grinders, excellent bread,
cake and mayonnaise mixers, knives
and cutters for all purposes, meat
shears and wing clippers, apple sauce
and cream Whips, pots with steam
gauges, fitted triangular saucepans for
one gas hole. slicers for all purposes
even one which cuts forty slices OF
bread in as many secondhand many
other silent helpers.
For the waitress there is the won
derful silver pan which cleans the
silver in little time, boiling water dish
racks, where the dishes dry them
selves, bottled garnishes and sauces OF
tempting havors. knife and fork clean
ers. and ? number of Thermos cock
tail bottles, so that she does not have
20 rush with them the last minute, to-
gether with other conveniences that
make service quick and easy.
Tho Housemad's Aid.
The housemaids also have many
rev aids, none better than the vacuum
cleaner run by electricity, or even by
hand. the weighted brushes for floor
use, and the English brushes with dit
fcrcnt length handles to screw III
place for walls. On each floor she has
her cleaning box or tray and busters,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25
WOMAN'S PAGE BINDERS.

AS many of the articles on this page will
be continued from day to day, The Tribune,
for the convenience of those lUho may Uish to
preserve the pages has had made an original
and unusual binder This binder holds sixty
single newspaper pages, and tUiU be sold at
cost, thirty cents, postage prepaid.
Notion receipt of self-addressed stamped en-
veope The Tribune will furnish the and addresses
of the shops from which the articles described thi,
page taken
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25

had TO match the apron. Outfits from
Joseph.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25
parIor Maids Uniform.
Lsdy's Maid Caples..

The personal maid wears black
Dress and d short apron without blo
or bretelles, and no cap. The collar
and cuffs should match her apron,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25

luncheon, or, in any case, by half past
two.
The illustrations on this page are
excellent examples of what is correct.
The light chambray dress should be
worn in the morning, and the dark
dress in the afternoon.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25
oWOMANy VARIED INTERESTS 9

her long handled dustpan and brush
and her carpet sweeper for the bed
room rugs. Her tray contains all the
cleaning soaps and fluids. In the
bathrooms are the modern toilet
tongs of nickel, which, with especially
prepared sospy paper have super
seeded the old toilet brush cleanser.
II the mistress of the home has fol
lowed the best modern plan IN her
linen closet she has installed drop
front shelves with a label on the out
side of each shelf telling what the
contents are, thus saving much time.
For the finest linens she may have
choice shelves, and special lock, the
KEY of which she carries herself.
If meals are to be carried to tue
rooms. that is the chsmbermald's duty,
but the food is arranged on the tray
By the waitress.
House Provides Uniforms.
All uniforms are furnished by the
mistress, including the housemaid's
and chambermaid's caps and aprons
and anything different from the black
dress usually worn. The cooks aprons
and mob caps are furnished in many
ZONES for purely sanitary reasons, but
that is not obligatory.
In households of this calibre some
one has to be responsible for supplies
and this is the general method. All
linens, cleaning cloths. aprons, caps,
towels. bedding and daily table linen
the ohambermsid gives out. and must
keep account of i'll her books. She
must look after even the kitchen
towels. aprons and dish cloths, and
when they are worn out report thus
fact so that new ones may be pur-
chased.
Additional Servants.
The addition of other servants in
the establishment simply lightens
labor, for the addition of lsdy's maid
relieves the chainbermsid OF all care
of her mistress's clothes, her meal
trays. and OF many little things she
usually does. The addition of the
nurse means that she takes care OF the
child and the nursery.
II the scullery maid is added she is
first aid to the cook, serves the meals
and cares for the servants dining
room. prepares all vegetables, fruits
and salads and makes herself gen
orally useful where she is most needed.
Though we started with four ser
wants as the fundamental helpers, 1t
was very easy 70 add more without
practically changing the main duties
mapped out for the four. So accord-
ing to the income the servants may be
increased without visible jar of the
household machinery. when 1t rs
planned on such working basis.
The outside servants-coachmen,
chauffeurs, footmen and gardeners
make a difference only in the servants
dining room, the work OF the cook
and the household bills.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25


Joseph.
Uniform for Trained Nurse.
Az the same shop a specially is
made of uniforms for nursery maids,
as well as for trained hospital nurses
Uniforms for all the hospitals are
kept on hand, and may be ordered al
short notice, if necessary. The cos
tune is generally OF striped seer
sucker with a fve-gored skirt open
ing slightly on the side. The waist IS
rain and opens down the front, with
Main bishop sleeves. The correct
AKRON is a five-gored one OF pure linen'
with FIVE and half inch hem. Linen
cuffs to match the apron may also be
had. Doctor and nurses operating
gowns range from 81 IS up.
Nursery Maids Attire.
The nursery maid, like all the other
nurses, must have regulation uni
form. A correct one is white linen
dress. with a fve-gored apron hitting
well around the hips. and finished
with five inch hem. worn over 1t.
A linen collar and stsrched cuffs com
plete the outfit.
ParIor Maids Uniform.
When the psrlor maid assists IN
serving luncheon, tea or dinner She
wears a black dress with collar and
cuffs. apron and cap Of batiste' These
are usually smaller and finer than
those worn by the regular waitress
although some women make no dis
tinction between the uniforms OF the
psrlor maid and waitress as they pre-
fer all the servants TO be dressed
alike.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25
Morning Apron Plain.

The morning uniform is of blue
chambrsy. with long sleeves that but
ton at the wrist. Correct aprons for
morning wear should be long and
plain. with bib and brctclles matching
the collar and cuffs. When luncheon
is served informally. the morning
dress is not always changed, but the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-25

apron must be, as shorter and dain-
TER one is required. Morning aprons
range from 80 cents to 81 so.
Afternoon Uniform Dark.
The second sketch shows the cor
rect uniform TO be worn in the after
noon. The onc-pieoe dress comes IN
French satinc, in all shades, or in
mercerized poplin, mohair. or wash
materials. The waist, pleated or
plain, as preferred, opens in the front
and has long plain sleeves, while the
skirt is a FIVE gored model. with a
panel back, and opening in the front.
Seamless Apron, Frllled Cap.
The apron that should be worn
with such a costume is Of fine organ
die or Persian lawn, without seams
and having an inch and halt hem,
edged with fine lace or embroidery.
The appropriate caps are OF fine
Swiss, hemsttched. pleated, or orna-
mented with little loops of black satin
ribbon. Collar and-cuff sets may be
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25

Europe. South America, and Asia, as
well as the United States and Canada.
Dean A. Marston Of Iowa State col.
lege Was elected president al the
last meeting at Princeton university.
Iowa State college was chosen largely
because 1t holds the distinction Of be.
ing the only technical institution
where the three lines Of engineering
instruction are carried on together
Collegiate training, experimentation
research, and extension. Other insti.
tutions have two lines Of work but no
other all three.
Iowa State college viii undertake to
entertain the distinguished visitors In
a unique way. They will be housed on
the campus. they Will be given 9
glimpse Of Iowa's great resources, and
OF Iowa's activities in highway con
struction and along other engineering
and Industrial lines on automobile
tours.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25
ELECTRICAL NOTES.

Detroit has more than $4,000 cleo
tric irons IN service.
An electric device Is used to ster.
flize dental instruments.
An electrical exhibit was a feature
Of the Nashville state fair.
An electrically driven floor brush
is used to polish hardwood floors.
Nearly $500 electric irons were
sold in one day at st. Louis this sum
mer.
Seventy-nve different industries In
New York city, use electric trucks.
Electric locomotives r used on
the Usui-Tog mountain railroad in
Japan
German officers carry electrical
torches strapped to their breasts for
night work.
A total OF a18.56s electrical horse
power is supplied the various indus
tries OF Chicago.
Electric motors are generally used
for large pumping plants In this
. country and Europe.
More than 500 old houes In Mime
| apolis we're wired for electricity dur
ing the nrst half Of the year.
It is said that se~ventytwo per cen'
Of the cities and towns in Sweden Ar
lighted by electricity developed from
water power.
The longest electric power trans
mission line In service is between
Bishop and FL Centre. Cal, . distance
OF over 400 miles.
Aluminium cables are being used
for the Sequatchie valley transmits
sion line between Hales' bar power
plant OF the Chattanooga & Tennes
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25

The Clinton Herald is authority for
the statement that Colonel W. P.
Hepburn has decided to make his
permanent home In Washington. This
news viii be unwelcome to his many
Iowa friends. They dislike to lose
him from the state In which he has
had such q prominent and useful and
honorable career. But the best wishes
of friends VIII follow him to Washing.
ton. Colonel Hepburn is one OF the
great men Of the nation. His legfs-
latiye services In congress nt
great value to the nation. The de.
relopment Of more Hepburns Is the
crying need Of the country. The Gin
ton Herald says of his removal 10
Washington:
ExCongressman Hepburn IL nov.
ing permanently to Washington,
where he has spent the last few
years amid the scenes Of his long
legislative career. Colonel Hepburn'i
active work is over, and it is small
wonder that he desires to spend h.l
remaining years on the ground OF q
hundred fornsic triumphs.
When Hepburn retired, congress
lost its champion debater. There wal
not a man In the house Of representa-
tiyes who could stand up TO Hepburn
In a give and take contest Of wits and
not get the worst OF 1t. He WAS
terror t o the opposition. Hepburn
last address in congress was an In
stance oe'his indomnitable spirit, fol
It was given against the advice o
physicians. who told him his hear
could not stand the strain. 1t did
though
Hepburn was not only = great de
batter, bua a Trainer Of laws. One o
the most important acts Of railroad
regulation bears his name. His hob
by, as a member Of congress, wa
pure food legislation. He was the TO-
! Of adulteration and Of the use o
harmful drugs, fighting q long light
Substantially. and In the . o
discoursging apathy on the part o
the general public Not everything
that he fought for has been enactet
into law, but his efforts have con
trfbuted to such results as have beel
attained
Hepburn could point out, In tn
hall Of the lower house, where man!
a skfllful adversary has met defeat q
hs hands. and has sat down discom
fted amid the applause and laughtel
Of the house. The old colonel IL wei
come to the enjoyment OF his laureis
He served Iowa long and well. but n
was more truly a servant OF the IA
ton. He was never interested II
bringing legislative spoil TO his hom'
district.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25

see River Power Co.. and the main
Nashville line Ut College. Tenn.
A flash Of lightning helps 70 fer.
tilize the earth by burning the nitro
gen Of the air with the oxygen. and
forming nitric acid. This acid. df-
luted with rain water. il precipitated
to earth. whore it 10 = valuable fer
tilizer.
Electric mixers on the Teel ranch
near Shafter. Kern county. California,
are being successfully used to milk
sixty COWS a day. The power bill
runs from $40 to $13 per month. a.
compared to $3.50. wages Of three 81
pert mixers otherwise required. A 3
b. p. motor drives an air compressor
furnishing the suction. On this
ranch water to irflgate 100 acres OF
alfalfa Is electrically pumped, the
cream separator Is motor-driven, and
all lighting is with electricity.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25

The production Of sand and gravel
In Pennsylvania In 1918 was 6,7o2.44
tons. valued 1t 3~3.3S1.6s2. against
6,5os,3 s3 tons. valued 1t S3,371,slS in
1912, according to the United States
geological survey. Building sand is
the most important product OF this
character in the state. but OF greater
relative importance is glass sand, in
the production OF which Pennsylvanis
ranks first among the states. In the
value OF the sand produced. although
not In the quantity, Pennsylvania
ranks first, the precedence in value
being due to the high value Of the
glass sand compared to other kinds.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25
LOOK HERE FOR IT
Many . keekuk Reader VIII 9

Many q keokuk reader VIII Be
Interested.
When people read about The cures
made by q medicine endorsed from
far away. is it surprising that they
wonder II the statements are true?
But when they read of right
here at home. positive proof is with
IN their reach, for close investigation
e. an easy matter. Read Keokuk en-
dorsement OF Doan's Kidney Pills
Mrs. R. J. LANCE, 2o9 B-nk St,
Keokuk. says: Whenever I caught
co1d. it wal sure to settle on my kid
news and for several days. sharp
tvinses darted through my back.
X It hard for me to get about
nurtne one Of these spells, ! hap
nened to see Doan's kidney Pills ad-
yertised and / begun using them.
The nrst few doses relieved me and
7 now have no cause for complaint
II Gives me pleasure to confirm my
,ormer endorsement of Doan's Kid
new pills and advise their use IN cases
Of kidney complaint"
Price soc, al all dealers. Dont sim
p,v ask for a kidney remedy-get
noan,s Kidney Pills-the same that
Mrs. LANCE had. Foster-Mflburn Co.,
Props, Buffalo, N. Y.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25
AT ONCE! STOPS
STOMACH MISERY
AND INDIGESTION
Diapepsin" makes
sick sour, gassy Stomachs
feel fine

Do some foods You eat hit Jack
taste good. but work badly; ferment
into stubborn Jumps and .
sick, sour. gassy stomach? Nov. Mr..
or Mrs. Dyspeptic, jot this down:
Pape's Diapepsin digests everything,
leaving nothing to SOU or upset you.
There never Was anything &c safely
quick, So certainly effective. No dit
ference how badly your stomach IL
d%isordered. you will get happy relief
in five minutes, but what pleases you
most is hat 1t strengthens and regu-
lates your stomach 30 you can eat
your favorite foods without fear.
Most remedies give o relief
sometimes-they are slow, but not
sure. "Pape's Diapepsin" Is quick.
positive and puts your stomach in .
healthy condition 30 the misery
won't como back
You feel different A. soon as
"Pape's Diapepsin" comes in contact
with the stoma.h-distress just van
ishes-your stomach gets Eweet, no
gaes, no belching, no eructat'ons OF
undigested food. your head clears
and you feel nne.
Go now, make the best Investment
you ever made. by getting = large
ffty-cent case of Pape's Diapepsin
from any drug store. You realize in
I'VE minutes how needless It il to suf-
fer from indigestion. dyspepsia or
any stomach disorder.
ErEN-.L M
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25
THE DEAD

EhEXsLN I.
Here lies a clerk who half his lhe
had spent
Toiling at ledgers In a city gray,
Thinking that So his days would
drift away.
With no lance broken In LIES tour
namsnt.
But ever 'twixt the books and his
bright eyes
The cleaning eagles Of the legions
came,
And horsenlen charging under phan'
tom skies
Went laundering past beneath the
orifamme.
And now those waiting dreams are
satisfied,
For in the end he heard the bugle
call,
And to his country then he gave
his all
When in the first high hour Of life
he died.
And falling thus, he wants no recon
Who found his battle In the last
resort;
Nor needs he any hear.e to bear him
hence
who goes to Join the men Of Astn-
London Spectator.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25
ENGINEERING EDUCATION.

Announcement has just been made
that the next annual convention OF one
Of the most important engineering so
cieties, the society for the promotion
of engineering education, will be held
at Iowa State college, June % to 70.
Competition for the honor Of entertain.
ing this society was keen between
the University of missouri and lowe
State college. but Iowa won out Dy
a considerable margin.
This organization with a member
ship OF 1900 is International In char
acter, including representatives OF tne
leading technical institutions q
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25

Senator Cummins. The man who
tolls and helps to produce the great
prosperity Of the country has. always
counted him AZ . friend, because he
has known what ton means, has come
up through the school Of hard knocks.
he has felt the pinch Of poverty and
his sympathy goes out to the toilfng
masses of this nation. Our great agrf-
cultural population has ever found
him a worthy friend Business has
confidence in him. In all that goes TO
make a well rounded. fully developed
statesman, nothing is found lacking
In his character. Such a man should
be returned to the senate by q tre-
mendous majority. Unless I mistake
the sentiment OF the people OF Iowa
that is exactly what viii happen on
election day"
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-10-25

Il e by The Gate City" How fire.
pucntly this phrase comes to the lips.
For news of the war, for the ball score,
for quotations from the market, for
Information as to MARRIAGES and
deaths, people turn naturally to their
favorite newspaper. Just as instinc
tlvely they turn to the same source
of information when they want to buy
goods. Reading the newspaper, ant
relying on the newspaper Is a habit
1t applies almost as much to thu read
ing Of the newspaper Advertisement
ss il does to the news"