New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-08
NOVEL OVERSKIRTS
Take Place OF Straight Plain and Long Dapngs-Pointe
Fronts for the Short Woman and Tier-Trim-
mngs for the Tall and Slender
400 long has the overs1irt been

400 long has the overskirt been
of the straight up-and-down,
even-length, all-round effect.
Fashion. easily wearied and ever
restless. has decrced that Its shape
shall be changed. And this edict has
gone forth just as everybody, having
collected a wardrobe, had settled
back to enjoy the summer and
Aforget, temporarily. that couturiers
Exist.
Nevertheless. it is fortunate for
these would-be idlers that Fashion
abruptly became dissatisfied with the
nlain. long overskirt-htted smooth
" about the hips or pleated into
,v.istband-for II was everywhere.
Consequently something which def
,;tely varied from II was hailed with
delight the other day when it en-
tered America in company with a
number Of other importations TOR
early autumn.
Fin. Pleats Likely for Winters FrOcks.
The creation is all in sulphur-col-
o,.d charmeuse. and its skirt is laid
!, the fine pleat which is likely to
he the distinguishing feature OF next
winters modes. The draping OF the
/ ove-skirt can best be described as
an afterthought. Originally planned
4 ~ fall loosely from the waistband TO
which its top is gathered, 1t IS most
Unexpectedly caught high above the
knees in front and tucked under the
waistband. AS result the tiresome
Straight line is destroyed, the lower
edge is uneven and the back cas-
Aades irregularly almost TO the
ankles. while the front is only halt
It's length. Verify. a difference with
vengeance
The bodice OF this sulphur-colored
irock is worth attention because II
Is so absolutely unlike any which
have preceded it within the recol-
lection OF modern fashion experts.
RS fulness al centre OF front IS
closely gathered under q two-inch
standing collar crossing the collar
bones and the shoulder blades and
making not the slightest Pretence OF
approaching the throat or cover
ing Il.
Bodice Effect Like BOlero.
Several inches above the normal
waist line the bodice is again gath
cred. this time under 4 narrow trill
in sulDhur-colored pleated net com
Ing a. the top Of high girdlc in the
ehsrmeuse. From the back the effect
OF tn. bodice is not unlike a bolero'
supposinig that such garment were
ever gathered at top and bottom.
Its sleeves. too. are peculiar. They
are cut in one with me bodice, yet
thew outline the shoulders, nj trim
" under the arms and cling closely
70 them as Tar as the elbows, where
they end under net frills OF the
same length as those on the bodice.
The Mousquetaire, the Sleeve of the
, Hour.
Now and again these straight little
sleeves make their appearance on
v.ry simple frock. Most unexpected
thew are. and certainly not the arm
covering Of the hour. That sleeve,
broadly speaking, is the mousque-
tire-sometimes ripping all the
vsy from the shoulder; again. hitting
almost smoothly, but always cover
ing the wrist
Distinctly novel IS an overskir'
which points in front. Straight as
plurmet from waist TO toe 1t goes
and !, will be hailed with delight by
tn. plump woman to wnom Nature
has been niggardly in the matter OF
inches. For nothing so greatly ADDS
to the appearance Of heights as
Skin, which has length in front.
The model in the upper Ilustrs-
ton. showing this radical change IN
overdrspcri.s. Is in amethyst crepe
Alssse. It's underdress, slightly slit
q, one SIDE. falls IN irregular folds
sad does not look is scant as 1t act
uAly is.
Oyerskirt Folds Merge with Cape.
About the overskirt there IS con-
siderable fitness, and this appear
nance Is emphasized by the abrupt
slant Of IT'S point from the sides
| which are Of the same length as the
rear portion It's folds merge with
those Of cape which shows only
iron me back and falls loosely from
the nape Of the neck, where It IS laio
10 plests 70 form d high-standing'
turncd-ovcr collar
a second and very Fat collar trims
IN, bodice. whose front fitness IS
V csugh, in that II blouses chiefly
- the sides of the vast line. The