Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1914-08-20

nave Deen NOteu Olu IhhnlOneu' tioN
long Il will last Ii a question, but GER
tainly the influence Is being felt upon
the new fashions, which have broader
lines than ever. One OF the latest
Partisan notions Is the long coat OF
serge. cloth OF duyatyn finished with
a deep sailor collar OF black and white
striped gauze and worn over a plated
skirt OF corded silk or taffeta.
Velvet, velyeteen, heavy satin cloth.
duvatyn. tete de negre and chinchllla
cloths are being shown In many new
varieties In anticipation OF winter.
SILK yelours, among autumn fabrics
regarded as particularly smart for
voluminous long wraps as well as for
suits, is exceptionally sumptous In
black. Absolutely stunning is an even.
ing cloak in magpie-the black In We.
lours, the white in ermlne. The fur
cloak, dropping 10 the knees In front
and almost to the ankles at the sides
and back. has scallop.hnlshed edge.
A velours shawl collar coming high
against the neck. far over the. arm.
tops and almost to the waistline OF
the fronts, is as large as many a shoul.
der cape.
Corresponding broad are the bias.
cut rufhes applied to the full sleeves
just below the elbow, and even wider
Is the flounce set on at hips in front,
but low-dropped at the sides. Truly
a regal wrap, but wlthal practical, for
the black comes at the neck. the wrist
and about the hips. Although sufficient
ly elaborate for the opera, II is none
too conspicuous for an afternoon car.
riage wrap.
That nothing is more typically femi.
nine than lace is evidenced by the
eagerness with which the vogue for
using black meshes over white or vice
versa has been taken mp. The most
exquisite transparencies are employed
In this manner on women's waists.
The loose-fitting capes are also taking
away the effect Of the fitted coats. the
popularity of which seems to hang in
the balance.
. Capes composed OF black lace are
revived early Victorian mode. Go.
dey's Lady's Book" OF that era por.
trays them worn gracefully above
crinoline extended skirts. The long
rufhed lace cape OF the last century.
however, was plain aud rather low At.
ting about the throat. whereas the
modern wrap has an outstanding collar
in black tulle. At one side OF the filmy
collar nestles a rose. evidence OF the
influence Of Spain upon the fashions
of the hour.
Women with dull eyes should never
wear diamond ear rings. Pearls soften
the face more than any other jewel.
For afternoon wear the large, fiat
hat is fashionable. 1t is made OF vel.
vet, crepon, mouseline de sole. taffeta
or satin.
There are quaint posted voiles and
organizes that lend themselves TO the
picturesque styles and require nc
trimming.
There has been much talk about the
popularity of chlffons, tulles, nets and
laces for the making Of frocks for this
and the coming season.
| Starched linen collars are returning
, They are close-fitting In the back, the
front is turned back or left free, Sc
that the slight neck opening in th'
| front of the waist will harmonic II
, line with the lines of the collar,
t Collars of such exaggerated size tina
one is tempted to term them cape
/. give cachet TO various new models
I One of these. a veritable creation il
: black satin yelled with a tunic II
4 point d'Angleterre, has bodice GOV
Y ered-save for its wrinkllng, tight el
I bow sleeves-with lace cape. lov
I rounded at the neck and lying smooth
n ly across the shoulders and bust. Ii
n the back its sharp point joins the loo
k of sash in madonna blue MORE
Q whose single end is silver embroidered
d Rounding to the hips in the bach
/ covering the arms almost to the e
e bows, but scarcely showing from tn
t front, is the ecru lace cape collar o.
" a girls afternoon frock. 1t wells
o bodice in ecru chiffon, whose SUPPLE
e fronts run under high pointed grid
s in tea rose shot silk. The narrow ru
fles in alternating ecru lace and chi
IS fon trimming the skirt from the wais
g down veil the hue of the shot sill
e which is repeated In wreath OF te
r. rose on an ecru hat, banded and tie