Albuquerque morning journal., 1914-11-01

country that has tried to wrest from
Paris the enormous amount OF money
spent each year by its countrywomen
The Queen OF Holland requested the
dressmakers OF her country 10 design
costumes inspired by their Dutch en-
vironments. but--thc first thing all
worth while people in this profession
did was to hurry TO Paris for inspira-
ton. resulting in Paris gowns for Hol-
land rather than in Holland gowns.
Likewise, the Italian queen tried to
stimulate the Italian dressmakers by
wearing only gowns made in her own
country. but for all that they were
distinctly Partisan in cut and style.
The present war has given the de-
signing and making of gowns here in
the United States a new impetus. and
one of the leading New York stores
recently advertised an exhibition Of
suits and gowns made and designed
In their own American workrooms
These costumes were shown on
trained mannikins and In most artistic
surroundings. The result was won
derfully successful, although they
were.t in truth, so essentially under
the Partisan influence that one could
hardly call them truly American
made. No doubt in the course of
number OF such ndeavors-while
Paris is shut off by wall of war--the
home influence will be more apparent
The gown which seemed to me most
American was an evening gown Of
yellow brocade, the color of a Cali
fornia poppy. A wide girdle of pink
velvet girdled the waist. The pink
was of the color of the poppy petals at
their base.
A charming dancing frock for the
young girl, with waistline so short
that it Just escaped being pure EN-
pire. was made of white chiffon. Tri-
pie flounces bound with satin formed
the skirt. The satin binding causing
each flounce to stand out. The waist
was made with rounded low neck,
which came out well toward the
shoulders. and was finished with
heading of its own. A three-inch
frill fell from just below the heading.
The sleeves were mere frill of
chiffon, bound on the edge. Wound
gracefully around the bodice just be-
low the ruff1e. not confirming the full
ness, was a velvet ribbon of grayish
hue. 1t crossed in the back and was
caught together in the front Strands
Of pink climbing roses were becoming
ly placed over one shoulder
The street and afternoon costumes
we're full short. perhaps ankle length
and even toe-top length In all were
shown the new silhouette which has
replaced the fashionable bouffant cf-
feet so popular last year This sli-
houette flares at the bottom Of the
skirt or tunic, the flare coming at the
sides. At the back and front the
skirt should be flat to the figure. In
order to successfully obtain this eff
feet. and the proper fulress, which Is
shown in the skirts, the fulness at
the back Is box-pleated In two or
more large box pleats which are
pressed very flat. At the sides or
front the skirt Is gathered or shirred.
A stunning tailored suit for young
married woman, suitable for lunch
cons or afternoon bridge. shows the
clever combination Of the new black
braid with velvet. The skirt has the
full ripply appearance which is so
smart without being really full. The
coat is cut on the straight lines of a
French soldiers uniform This is
called cuirass shape.
A dress which could be used for
general utility wear. not too dressy
for mornings and yet dressy enough
for afternoons. was made from blue
and yellow plaid. The model was
called Rob Roy. because the idea was
taken from The Scotch Highlander's
tartan.
The coats. both for evening and for
everyday wear. were strongly influ-