The Washington herald., 1914-03-22


was very short in the back with tassels
to mark the high waist line at each
side. and a much cut away front re-
vealing a v necked blouse all of black
chiffon. Here, however. a touch Of color
appeared in a cluster OF miniature fruit
and deep-toned pinks with natural hued
foliage. Mrs. Altemus' hat as every bit
as modish as her gown. being black
erin turban close and high with its trim
ming. two loops Of 81 l.,cerined cloth In
long. narrow lines that mounted fully
twenty inches above the brow. This
glyceHned treatment applied to straw.
lacquer-and Is not unlike nne pattened
leather or old-fashioned oil-cloth.
While II is quite possible to wear last
| season gown and not be conspicuously
| old-fashioned. there are no hats Of even
| six months ago that are not entirely out
of fashion, either by reason OF their own
line or the angle at which they are
i worn. One reason for this Is the change
in coiffure, which this time preceded in
stead of followed the change in millinery.
/ 1t Is the fashion to show the hair. conse-
quently the small hat covering the head
like a scull cap has been raised an inch
| or two, split on the side or at the back
to emerge an entirely new shape, but
| very little larger than before. Hats to
| be at all In keeping with the Easter
fashions Of 1914 must rest on the top of
| the head, or IL that is too conservative
| over the left eye, but never on the back
of the head while the all-around brim
shading the shoulders is literally the last
straw In out-of-dat millinery.
Mrs. John X. Shields. wife Of the SEN
ator from Tennessee, and one Of the best
gowned women recently added to the
Congressional set. Is out in a black straw
hat that shows all the significant signs
of the changing fashions. II also shows
| that tse all-blsck hat that lapsed to
| second place In the matter of velvet. may
be restored TO an unquestioned pre-emi-
nence in the matter of straw or tulle.
Mrs. Shields hat is what some importers
call a Maria Guy model. though who
Maria Guy is, to have lesped into a sud-
den popularity with such old and we'll
known designers as Caroline Reboux. Su-
same Talbot. Georgette and Camille
Roger, this column does not know. The
Maria Guy hats as shown up to date all
appear to be in a highly Vanished
straw that may be hemp or Milan and in
a dashing coiffure revealing shape that
Is most acceptable to the woman who dis
likes a turban, a sailor by any name. and
Of course, at this time in fashion history.
does not want an old-time rolling or
dropping brim. Mrs. Shields hat, a direct
importation as can be seen at at a glance,
has a well-defined blocked crown. mar.
rover at the top than at the base with
a fiaring upturned brim shallow on the
right side and deep on the left where II
Is tucked up against the crown as a
background for a wonderful panache Of
delicate black plumage. the foundation
being a slender much-pointed birds wing.
overlaid in cross gourra, and ostrich.
The great diversity in taste in dress,
among women of one mind on graver
matters had a telling illustration in the
Senate gallery on Thursday afternoon
during the debate on woman's suffrage.
Mrs. Ashurst. wife OF the Senator from
Arizona, who has been in charge of the
bill proposing an amendment TO the Con-
stitution giving women the franchise. oc-
cUpied a front seat In the members gal
lery wearing coat suit Of tango" velvet.
new name for a new color. which Is
something between brown. dark red. and
orange. Mrs. Ashurst is naturally in
favor for votes for women. ana also likes
to demonstrate that having the vote will
in no way diminish the feminine love OF
dress among the wouid-be voters par
ticularly in Arizona. Her costume on
Thursday was made along the lines of the
more elaborate visiting toilet of the last
winter. with a slightly draped skirt and
half length coat The latter had the |
rounded French back. while the front |
opened with broad reveres faced in white
satin. Mrs Ashurst's hat was of velvet, |
a little darker than her gown. a round !
toque shape with its trimming several |
deep orange red. the tango shades all
being reproduced.
Mrs. Medill Mccormick. who entered the |
public gallery shortly before the taking |
of the vote. looked particularly well in a |
tailored suit of gray cheviot, showing |
a slight hair line Of violet. Her jacket |
was single breasted and untrimmed. but |
on very smart lines showing a decided |
curve about the waist line. Her skirt |
escaped the ground by four inches and |
was of convenient walking width, as well |
as length. Mrs. Mccormick wore one of |
the few straw hats of the day, a wide |
braid in a conventional rouna crowned |
narrow brimmed shape, of violet with its |
trimming a pair of violet wings and en-
circling bands of self-coloreo satin rib
bon. This was all in tailored style. and
becoming TO the popular young
matron. who made her debut in WASH
ington not so many years ago. as Miss
Ruth Hanna, her late father then being
from Ohio.
For the woman who dislikes a straw
hat with heavy cloth or velvet. not to
mention fur trimmed suits, there is COM
ing into favor an intermediate hat that
may be satin, velvet. the glycerned
cloth. or indeed. almost any textile ever
known or unknown in the millinery world.
The shape is the thing all hats of this
class appear to be modelled on the con-
ventionsl sailor. Mile. de Rappard
daughter Of the Minister from the Meth
erlands. started this fashion several
weeks ago by wearing an all white hat
OF some silk finished cloth with its trim
ming, two tiny wings, one on each side
OF the rather severe round crown. This
was worn with a tailored suit Of plain
black. Miss Henrietta Fitch is another
smart maiden young enough and pretty
enough to adopt the severely plain fash
on, with her hat made up in yellow with
the scant trimming, a much twisted bow
Of mauve velvet. Mrs. Chandler Hale
wears the sailor shape, but with a rather
broader brim than Mile. Rappard or Miss
Fitch. Mrs. Hale has two hats on this
rider, one black trimmed in white crosse.
another in dark blue or black with its ,
shaded blue clipped ostrich