Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1914-10-04
FEMININE FASHIONS.
By Maude Hall.

New York, Oct. 3.-During the past week there has been rather disturb ed condition in the world of dress Influential women of America are making such vigorous fight against the military modes, that they may be discarded entirely, as far as the fash ion leaders of the United States are concerned.
 Just what will replace them is hard to tell. Certainly the Spanish cava Her cape, the military jacket, etc.. were gaining friends very fast and are still featured among the leading styles of fall and winter. They are not going to yield their position with, out a fight. Perhaps there will be a compromise; until something definite is decided, it is we'll to select styles that are sure to be approved on all sides. And there is sufficient variety to be sure.
 Noticeable departures have been made in blouses within tho past few weeks. From the fluffy lace and chif- ion effects, so popular last season. waists have changed to basques of taffeta and satin. These materials warrant totally different treatment and possess an individuality and smartness lacking in the more fussy olouses fashioned of transparent fab ribs. These designs are unusual in the possession of the important de- tails, which give a sense of novelty without the bizarre notes that some times mar the aesthetic senses of wo- men who are anxious to dress up to date, but who dislike conspicuous fashions.
 A very fashionable material for the separate blouse is striped taffeta which is shown in combinations of blue and white, green and red, violet and black, red and white, brown and white and red and blue.
 Black satin, in yardage or ribbon, has more vogue than has been it's DOT tion within the memory of the most elderly of fashion scribes. What is the reason for it no one pretends to know. That it contributes greatly to the effect of many new models no one denies. Both piece satin and ribbon are employed in the development of an afternoon costume which has two of the salient features of current modes-the much ruffled skirt and the long, plain basque. The basque in satin, is dartless and is scanned only on the shoulders, where it lies smoothly, and the sides, toward which it puckers from blindly closed fronts. The transparent sleeves are of black tulle. The skirt is series of ruff fles from hips to hem.
 ] For the Debutante.
 Merely a touch of taupe is on a young debutante's autumn suit in blue gabardine. But that touch is applied where it is most effective. In the shape of rather large pump bow in velvet, it joins the very short fronts of long-sleeved jacket carrying wide collar and worn above waist coat in taupe red silk. As placed be- tween bust and waist and coming sim ultaneously upon the taupe of the waistcoat and the blue of the jacket. the taupe velvet makes a dense neut- raf note, as unusual as it is compel ling to the attention.
 At the back the jacket drops as a rather sharp point to the seam of hip deep yoke supporting a finely pleated overskirt which practically cov CTS a scant undertakes. The upper part of this underdress is of silk, as the two thicknesses of gabardine in the overdress, covering third layer of equal weight, would make too much bulk between waist and knees. While the color scheme of this very simple model might easily be transposed with Egood effect, the skirt and jacket in taupe would be hit too mature for a young girl, but it would be very smart fo Ia young matron.
 The top coat of this year is a de- cided change from that of last season. Instead of being drawn in about the hem, to produce the once-popular peg top silhouette, it now flares from the shoulders, some models being Of such ample proportions that they resemble capes from the back. Fabrics of bright colors are favored, and the Scotch plaids designs are very much in demand. Red velour is used in a model which would bring cheer to the wearer on the dullest day. The deep pleated collor of this model gives the effect of a shoulder cape and the high military collar and cuffs are corbeau- blue velvet. Plaid zibeline, in perfect l ly blended tones of peacock blues and greens appears in many of the smart est coats. These are suitable for young or old and are excellent for motor wear.
 Beaver Hat in Favor. The beaver hat has returned to fav-
 or and is much in evidence. The trimming used on this hat is of the simplest, consisting of a fantisie of plumage or a bead ornament in the form of a fruit, flower or bird. On
 one model two apples of bright yellow and scarlet are used.
 | Since the surplice blouse and point ed lines continue in favor, they create a demand for chemisettes and vestees.
 In the shops there is a wide assort- ment of these articles fashioned of
 mousseline de soie, organdie, net, lace and chiffon in black-and-white com
 binations. These are dainty sheer bits
 of neckWear to be worn with the after noon frocks and consist of soft folds and is wired to maintain it's position.