davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26
PROBL EMS IN DRESSMAKINC
 HOW TO MAKE ONE OF THE NEW WAISTS WITH BIG ARMIIOLEs

line. On the envelope, you are told to lay the belt on the crosswise fold but, for this particular material, it will be more economical to make seam at the back and, since it is covered by girdle, it will not show; hence you will cut two pieces from the portions left from around the fronts of the pep lum and join the edges. The back of the collar is laid on the crosswise fold of the lace to bring the finished edge at the top and the long straight edge of the remaining portion and the notched edge of the chemisette are laid lengthwise on the lace. Should you wish elbow sleeves. cut the sleeve pattern through on the cross line of perforations before placing it on the material.
 After you have pinned the various parts of the pattern into place on the different materials, trace all around the outside edges to get the correct basting line and mark all the perfora- tlons and notches with the tracing wheel or tailor's chalk. Cut beyond the outside edge of your pattern as far as the special material makes neces- sary for seam.
 Take out all the pins and remove the pattern. Then make all the mark ings through to the under side by means of the tailor's tacks which have been described in a former lesson. After separating the under from the upper portions of the blouse. lay the peplum aside until needed.
 First finish the neck edge of the centerfront and back portions. To do this, cut bias strips of plain silk one-half inch in width. Fold at the center. Turn the seam allowance on the neck edge under and arrange over your double fold, leaving one-eighth of an inch beyond the neck edge of the blouse; haste and stitch into place. Since the blouse is to be closed at the left side. there must be fastenings of some sort attached to the front DOT tion and it will be easier to prepare for this before the side-fronts are ar ranged over it therefore, under-face the left side with a straight strip of material one and one-quarter inches in width when it will be strong enough for the buttons or whatever form of closing you may use. As the next step turn the front edges of the side fronts under on the perforations and turn the seam allowance under to form inturns; haste and stitch the left side one inch within the folded edge. Arrange both side fronts over the center-front with the edges at the perforations and haste into place. Stitch the right side one inch within the edge through both the side-front and the center-front Join the shoulder edges of the side fronts and the back of the blouse. Then cut bias strips of the material one and one half inches in width and under-face
  the armhole edges. making the stitch ing one inch within the edge to match the front portions Remove the bast- ings and press. Lap the blouse over the sleeves with the finished edges at the perforations; haste carefully and stitch into place one inch within each edge to match the front portions. Close
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26

I.-CoHar aud Chemisstte or LGet Folded Cvosswise
 2.-The Center FroH! or Material Folded LrngthtOiss.
 3.-One Sleeve on Moterial ? Inehes Wide
 the under-arm and sleeve seams, using the double or French seam described in a previous lesson. Whether the sleeves are long or short. finish them with straight over-facings of the plain material of any width you may desire but two and one-half inches is good one. To do this, cut strips of the necessary length and join the ends. Then seam one long edge of each to the edge of one sleeve with the seams meeting and with the right side facing the wrong side of the sleeve. Turn up over the sleeve and turn the upper edge under and haste and stitch as in the illustration one-half inch within each edge As the next step gather the blouse at the lower edge between the double crosses Cut lining for the belt. Turn the seam allowance on each long edge under and haste. Ar range the outer portion of the belt over the blouse or the right side with the center backs together. the large perforations in the belt at the center front and the smaller perfora tions meeting the under-arm seams, and cut the left side of the belt of at the double perforations. Arrange the lining of the belt over the under side of the blouse in exactly the same wav; then haste into place anl stitch through all the thicknesses as , to the upper edge as possible.
 Lay the blouse aside and prepare the tunic. To do this, first join the
 For Balance o: Lesso es First Column,
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26
NOTES for the HOME NEEDLE WOMEN

Bulgarian designs are somewhat crude, consisting chiefly of unnatural looking leaf, wheel, bar, or heart shapes, with flowers or fruit of some what solid appearance introduced as variety.
 Flat stitches are invariably en- ployed, no padding being allowed, and judicious variety of treatment is advisable so as not to destroy cer- tain uniformity characteristic of the work.
 All kinds of silk, linen and cotton materials, of an evenly woven, and not close texture. are suitable, and the
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26

If this particular waist proves to be too long waisted. lay tuck in the front and one in the back of the pat tern half way between the shoulder edge and the extension that forms the under-arm portion and let this tuck take up exactly the excessive length. Then lay your pattern over the Sleeve and take up tuck in the front of the sleeve and one in the back at exactly the same points and at exactly the same depth. tapering to nothing. to fit the altered waist: the size of the sleeves should not he changed more than necessary. To shorten them lay tuck just below the elbow. Lay little tuck in the center front portion at exactly the sa m e point and of exactly the same width and all the changes will have been made and you can go on cutting and making without any further thought as to the fit.
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26

color in equal width, are extremely fashionable and combine most effect ively with plain color. The costume showing this effect also shows one of the newest sleeves and an unusually pretty and becoming neck finish. In the picture, it is made of cotton voile while it shows white with an exquisite shade of grayish green and the black sash gives just the note of strong color that is essential this season.
 To the left of the costume is a young girls frock that is made of
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26
May Manton Patterns for these Designs may be obtained by send ing 10 cents for each pattern wanted to the Fashion Department of this paper.

ITO be smart, the sleeves of the
 costume must be loose and
 droop somewhat under the arms. Other details may be more or less open to choice but loose sleeves make the rule. In some instances, the effect is obtained by the use of the raglan model; in others again, the blouse shows the genuine Japanese or kimono cut but. among the very newest and most interesting costumes, the sleeves that are joined to the gar ment at very big armholes are con- spicuoua
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26

inside the center-hont portion of the blouse with the edge of the blouse at the lines of perfUations; haste into position and sew carefully into place along the neck edge, taking small stitches through the under-facing only. To join the collar to the neck edge, let the seam allowance extend under the blouse and take care that the center backs come exactly together
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26

and the ends of the collar at the single perforations in the chemisette; haste into position and stitch the right side into place and the left to the edge of the chemisette. From that point to the end, bind it with tiny little strip of fine lawn or batiste and sew hook to the end of the collar and an eye under the chemisette to hook it into place.
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS

8Iso Semi-Princesse Dress for Misses and Small Women, I6 and IS years. sI6o Fancy Waist with Tunic. 34 to 4s bust. 8o66 Two-P Piece Skirt, 22 to B waist. 8I56 Blouse Costume. 34 to 42 bust. 8I45 Semi Princesse Gown, 34 to 42
 bust, 8oS5 Fancy Blouse, 34 to 40 bust. 79S4 Draped One Piece Skirt. 22 to 8
 waist.
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26
ORESENT fashions are really
 ideal for the home dress

nRESENT fashions are really
 ideal for the home dress
 maker. The newest and smartest waists and blouses ate loose and the sleeves are joined to tbem at big armholes if they are not cut in Japanese style and, as a result, there is no fitting. Nothing is snug, everything is designed to hang loosely and to pouch under the arms; con- sequently, all the difficulties that might beset the amateur disappear. This fancy waist with tunic makes an excellent example of the prevailing style and the general directions that are given for its making will apply to others of similar sort. In pur- chasing your pattern, be quite cer- tain to obtain the correct size. If your waist is either longer or shorter than the average or normal woman, a little change will be required in the pattern to meet the condition but no other can be needed. Never cut of or add to waist at the lower edge; so doing only spells the lines and it is upon the lines that the smartness of every garment depends.
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26

By one method or another, we must be broad over the hips, but when we have accomplished that effect and loose sleeves, the rest of the costume will quite surely be correct. As a matter, of course, the narrow skirts give the effect of being drawn in about the feet.
 In this picture are shown some of the newest and smartest models and, incidentally, some of the most fash ionable fabrics. What are known as awning stripes, or stripes of white and
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26

HE preference for strong coloring
 and bold designs in embroidery
 shows itself in the recent re- vival of Bulgarian work, which is applied to collars, cuffs, yokes and belts of washing and other dresses in a very effective manner. It is easy and rapid in execution, and when the correct coloring and stitchery are applied, there is certain distinctive bold character about Bulgarian en- broidery, which has always won ap- . proval. Moreover, it not only looks we'll. but wears web. and is inexpensive in working.
Arizona republican., 1914-04-26
'Z zzzz \ ''.| '....| EN1
as to the fit

4.-The Fronts and Back Of Blouse and Tunie OF Material Folded Length srise.
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03
Wedding Bells

Last Wednesday evening g
 pretty home wedding took place
 at the residence of Mir. and Mrs.
 Anson H. Smith, being the occa-
 sion of the marriage of their
 daughter, Bernice. to Jesse s.
 Hulet. Rev. Father Vabre, of
 the Catholic church, performed
 the ceremony. Only the imme- diate relatives and few per sonal friends of the contracting
 parties were present. The bride wore a handsome gown of crepe de chene and carried a bouquet of lilies of the valley. Phyllis Smith and Hubert Smith, sister and brother of the bride, acted as bridesmaid and best man. Mrs. Hulet is the eldest daugh- ter of MT. and Mrs. Anson H. Smith, and is one of the most accomplished of Kingman's S young ladies. She was born in Kingman and has always been popular on account of her win ming personality and musical taI- ent. She is graduate of the Northern Arizona Normal school, and has taught in the public schools of Kingman and other places. MT. Hulet is a well known young business man of Holbrook, where he is very pop- ular, not only with the younger set, but also with the whole peo- pie of that section.
 The young couple departed Thursday morning to their home in Holbrook. At the depot a large gathering of people assem- bled to bid the happy young peo- pie farewell and Goodspeed and incidentally to deluge them with a few bags of rice. -Kingman Miner.
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03
Serious COnaagratiOn
 Averted by Providence

Small boys, matches. cIgar- cites and little bonfire, caused
 what might have been a serious confagration. Yesterday after noon party of small boys gath cred at the east end of hay stack in the yard of Chas. E. Perkins and proceeded to enjoy the flavor of Bull Durham or Dukes Mixture by smoking cig- arettes. They also lighted a small bonfire made of old papers. etc., which were lying around the place. When the little fire was we'll under way, a strong wind came up. and whirled around the corner. blowing the burning paper into the hay. which, being dry as finder. inn mediately caught fire, and in a seconds time the whole stack was ablaze. and had it not been for a change in the wind and a heavy rain which came with it. nothing could have saved the adjacent buildings belonging to Messrs. Perkins, Paulsell and c. H. Brown. A large crowd of men responded to the fire call, but the heat being so terrific, worked only around the edges of the fire and kept it from spread ing. The heavy drenching rain which fell during the first half hour of the fire, kept the roofs and sides of the frame buildings wet enough to protect them.
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03
Death of Dr. Fred H. Tuning

Word was received here last Tuesday that Dr. Fred H. Hun ing, of Ventura. California, died at his home in that city on June 26th from cancer of the stomach. Besides his father and mother, deceased leaves a widow and two children. a boy of T years and a girl of five to mourn his loss.
 Dr. Tuning was the son of Henry H. Tuning. pioneer of Apache and Navajo counties. and for many years a resident of Showlow, and was A years old. He graduated from medical col lege and took up the practice of medicine, locating in Casa Grande. Arizona, for some time. and finally locating at Ventura. California, several years ago, and has resided there ever since, and had become quite prominent in city and county affairs.
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03

who do without knowing why.
 I am the clutch of an idea, and the reasoned purpose of re- solution.
 ''I am no more than what you believe me to be and I am all that you believe me to be and am all that you believe I can be.
 I am what you make me, no- thing more.
 I SWING before your eyes as a bright gIeam of color, symbol of yourself, the pictured sugges- tion of the big things which make this Nation. My stars and my stripes are your dream and your labors. They are bright with cheer. brilliant with courage, firm with faith, because you have made them so out of your hearts. For you are the makers of the flag and it is we'll that you glory Tn the making. "-Delivered on Flag Day. 1914, before the em- ployees of the Department of the Interior. Washington, D. c. by Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the Interior.
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03

Willie Wahl, of SpringerviIle was transacting business in Hol brook this week. He was accom- panied by his mother.
 Elias Smith and bride, passed through Holbrook Sunday morn. ing on their way to their home at Snowflake from Salt Lake.
 Clarence Morrow, an old Hol. brookite, was renewing old ac. quaintances in the city the first of the week. He came down from Flagstaff in his car.
 Live Stock Inspector Lew H. Mickey made an official trip tc Winslow Tuesday to inspect 2 car load of horses shipped by J. w. Taylor to Texas.
 E. P. ConwelI, one of the busiest lawyers of NavaJo coun- ty, was a visitor at the county seat yesterday from Winslow on professional business.
 o. Lesle Hart and Rube Nell, of Flagstaff, were in the city a few days this week. Less said he didn't have any business here, but might be able to pick up a few "dogies. ."
 Luther Hart, Flagstaff. and w. G. Wingfeld. of the Verde valley. were business visitors in Holbrook this week. They came down in MT. Wingfeld's new Hupmobile.
 Dr. Pearl Udall, osteopath. of Phoenix, went through Holbrook the first of the week en route to St. Johns, where she will spend the summer visiting relatives and practicing her profession.
 Postmaster Smith and Assist ant Biggs this week handled a parcel post shipment of 39 sacks of oats almost a.ton in weight. The cereal was sent to Charley Erickson at Showlow by B. First of this place.
 A. R. Boiling. a recent arrival in Holbrook, on Tuesday opened a motion picture theatre in the Woods hall. The4opening show was we'll attended and the crowd seemed well pleased with the of- ferings. Mir. Boiling has adopted popular prices. 10c. and 15c.
 Dick Grigsby. the good natur- ed and popular cowman, was in the city from hls ranch on busi- ness. MT. Grlgsby is the owner of some valuable real estate in and will make some improvements on it in the near future.
 J. D. Guthrie, Forest Super visor of the Apache National Forest, accompanied by Assistant ]. H. Singer, were in the city Wednesday on business. They 'eport a large number of fires his season, but none of any sig lificance.
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03
LAW COVERING NOM-
 NATIONS IN PRIMARIES

The following information may
 be of interest to prospective can didates in the coming regular
 primary election.
 Every person desiring to be-
 come candidate at the primary election, for a political party
 nomination or a non-partisan
 nomination. and to have his name
 printed on the official ballot at
 such primary election, must file
 two papers, one of which is sign
 ed by himself and called a nom-
 ination petition, and the other is
 signed by the electors nominat-
 ing him and called nomination paper. While the statute gives
 different names to these papers, yet both of them are in fact peti- tions, and they must be filed not less than twenty days nor pore than sixty days before the pri- mary election. The time for filing the petitions begins July 8. and continues until August IS. The primary election will be held on September 8.
 The nomination papers for state and federal offices. except the offices of superior judge and members of the legislature, are filed with the secretary of state, and must be signed by number of qualified electors equal to at least one per cent Of the votes for governor. at the last cleo tion. by the party to which the candidate belongs, in at least three counties in the state, but not less than one per cent nor more than ten per cent of the vote cast for such governor in the state at said election.
 For example, the total vote cast for the democratic candidate for governor at the last election was 11,123. and a candidate for nomination for a state office or for United States congress on the democratic ticket will there fore have to secure at least 112 to his petition, and not more than LIP ten per cent of the vote cast. A can- 1idate for nomination on the re- publican ticket would take the 5otaI vote cast for governor for , his party's candidate, which was ), ,166, and secure :the necessary per centage of that number in 
 Phe law governing nomination papers for county offices, and offices of superior Judge and member of the legislature, is to he effect that not less than ,hree per cent, nor more than ,en cent, of the candidates party vote for governor, at the ast election. in the county, shall ,e represented on the nomina- ion paper. Such nomination papers are filed with the clerk if the board of supervisor.
 The nomination paper for the ,fice of justice of the peace, or must represent at east five per cent of the can- idate's party vote in his pre- inct, at the last election.
 The basis of precentage in all f the above cases is the vote of he candidates party for gover- or in the last election.
 Tho Rant1hlican iS Olad to state
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03

The Republican is glad to state that H. B. Thompson. who is a practical and successful new paper man, and who has hc with the paper tor some acquires an interest in the p and will be permanently a- fled with the business. 6ws the printing and newsp lame thoroughly, and havihs n asso- ciated with the pape an ad- vantage both to the paper. and the community. He s system at1c, tireless worker, welded to his work, and Ia9 fully dem onstrated his abiIitf to put salt on the tall Of Idea. Gallup (N. M. ] RepfeiIfsh.
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03

FOR SALE. A six-hoIe range used about 6 months; cost $37. 50; will sell for $25. Also a new rocker for $5. Apply to Mrs. E. J. Garrison. jy3tf
The Holbrook news., 1914-07-03
MAKERS OF THE
 AMERICAN FLAG

CO CllC AduQ Oll1CO, l 4uC T lag dropped me a most cordial salu. tation, and from it's rippline folds I heard it say; Good morning. MT. Flag Maker"
 'I beg your pardon. Old Glory" said, aren't you mis- taken? 1 am not the President of the United States. nor mem Der of Congress, nor even a general in the army. 1 am only a government clerk"
 Il greet you again, MT. Flag Maker,' replied the gay voice, T know you well. You are the man who worked in the swelter of yesterday strengthening out the tangle of that farmers homestead in Idaho. or perhaps you found the mistake in that Indian contract in Oklahoma, or helped to clear that patent for the hopeful inventor in New York, or pushed the opening of that new ditch in Colorado, or made that mine in Illinois more safe. or brought relief to the old soldier Tn Wyoming. No matter; whichever one of these bene- fcent individuals you may hap pen to be, 1 give you greeting, MT. Flag Maker"
 1 was about to pass on, when The Flag stopped me with these words:
 YESTERDAY the President spoke a word that made happier the future of ten million peon Tn in Mexico; but that act looms no larger on the flag than the struggle which the boy in Geor- gia is making to win the Corn Club prize this summer
 Yesterday the Congress spoke a word which will open the door of Alaska; but a mother in Michigan worked from sun- rise until far into the night, to give her boy an education. She, too, is making the flag.
 Yesterday we made a new law to prevent financial panics. and yesterday. maybe, a school teacher in Ono taught his first letters to a boy who will one day write a song that will give cheer to the millions of our race. We are all making the flag
 But" said impatiently. these people were only work ing"
 Then came great shout from The Flag:
 THE WORK that we do is the making of the flag.
 ''l am not the flag; not at all. I am but its shadow.
 T am whatever you make me, nothing more.
 ''I am your belief in yourself, your dream of what a People may become.
 'I live a changing life, a life of moods and passions, of heart breaks and tired muscles.
 Some times I am strong with pride, when men do an honest work. fitting the rails together truly.
 Sometimes droop, for then purpose has gone from me, and I play the coward.
 Sometimes 1 am loud. garish and full of that ego that blasts judgment.
 But always 1 am all that you hope to be, and have the courage to try for.
 T am song and fear, struggle and panic. and ennobling hope.
 T am the days work of the weakest man, and the largest dream of the most daring.
 I am the Constitution and the courts, statutes and the statute soldier and dreadnaught, drayman and street sweep. cook, counselor, and clerk.
 I am the battle of yesterday. Y
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1914-09-26

40 poorly that my folks thought ! was
GOING into consumption. One day l
found piece Of paper blowing around
the ward and picked it up and read y
n sand Saved from the Grave, and
told what Lydia +. Pinkham S Negeta-
lIe COMPOUND has done for women. /
showed il to my husband and be said,
Wbv don't YOU try it, So ] did. and
after I had taken two bottles } ie.t
hotter and I said 70 nv husband, 4 don I
need any more. and he said You had
l,.ttsr take il little longer anyway.
"a took It for three months and got
,,,,ll and strong. - Mrs. ALoNzo +.
R.yrR. Q Tecumseh St, Adrian Mich
Not Well Enough To Work.
I, these words is hidden the tragedy
n r,anv woman. hoUsekeeper or wage
.s~,er who supports herself and ls often
beininr 10 support a family. on meagre
,~eg.ss whether In house. Office, FAC
torv shon. store or kitchen, woman
et,c,'5 remember that there is one tined
..-d tr-le remedy for the ills 20 which al
women are prone. and that is LYDIA :.
pinkham's Vegetable Compound II
rromotes that vigor which makes WORK
EASY. The lydia L. PiD4hsm Medicine
o.. I-un, Mass.