Evening journal., 1914-10-24

NEW YORK. Oct 24-In suits, both
long and short coats are shown in a
wide variety. Russian lines are
among the most favored. Long coats
Of broadcloth are worn over skirts OF
velvet, satin, duvetyne and broadcloth.
These have collars, high at the back OF
the neck, trimmed with fur, fur cuffs
and often a band of fur around the
hem.
Most Of the suits and costumes are
made Of velvet, broadcloth, broadtan
cloth, duvetyne. serge and gabardine,
while combinations of satin and faille,
velvet and fur-cloth are the seasons
favored characteristics.
The full ripple skirt is seen in many
attractive models, the ripple being
caused by the circular cut of the skirt.
This skirt is very short and full at
the hem but closer at the hips. The
full circular skirts and models, in
which box and side pleats are intro
duced, are becoming popular.
The hip-length suit coat is observed
in several clever styles, and is often
finished at the lower edge with a
broad band OF fur. Various types of
long coats show a fullness at the hips,
and, over all, hovers a suggestion Of
militaryism, which will probably ma
terialize later.
The redingote and moyen age styles,
so closely allied In design, are to be
tions of materials. For instances, a
model with a redingote OF taupe-col-
ored broadcloth had sleeves and the
/ foundation skirt of self-toned benga-
line. The redingote neck, sleeves, and
hem were trimmed with landings Of
sable fur. Another comination which
was stunning was Of brown caracul
cloth and satin.
Tulle, lace and chiffon play an I'M
portant part in the development OF
! evening dresses and are well adapted
to the various tunics which are worn
over skirts of satin and silk The
cuirass, the moyen age, and the redin-
cote styles are all shown In tulle.
Chantilly lace. or elaborate Jet en-
broideries combined with satin.
The all-black evening gown is hav-
ing a great vogue, for the soft laces
and clinging satins and silks in which
IL is developed are vastly more becom-
ing than when the stiffer styles held
sway.
Panne and chiffon velvet may be
had in all the newest shades of color
ings, conch-shell pink, oil blue and
sea green, are successful when used
for evening gowns OF pronounced sim
plicity.
The furs of the season are rich and
regal, and conform to the styles in q
manner which evidences the new ART
of the furrier. A handsome wrap OF
chinchilla was made with a iarine
lower line. The sleeves were large
and at the hands we're fulled into a
cuff of the fur. At the back was a
cape which rippled / lifted IL. Ia
see IL underneath the cape the wrar
was of fur, and found II merely had
a wide band of fur around the bottom
attached to a foundation of lining.
Caracul and broadtail are favorite
furs for coats and are trimmed with
fox, dyed fitch, skunk and a new fuI
which is called "kit fox A novelty
fur is squirrel, dyed to look like kit
ten fur. The thick skin of the fur
makes it dye very successfully and the
result is that we see il made to imi.
tate many things except itself.
Quite the latest shape in muffs is
the melon-shaped muff IL is cut in
melon-like pieces and has a fril
around the opening of silk OF velvet
This shaped muff is usually made Of a
short-haired fur, like chinchilla, kol.
insky or mink
Besides fur, fur cloth. plush and
velvet are used for set of muff anC
neck-piece and perhaps a hat.
charming set for the young girl is
made of velvet. The toque is small
and close fitting and has box-pleateC
ruffie ruche OF the velvet. also lined
with rose-colored satin, and the muf
is rather baggy in the center and ha:
a box-pleated ruche of the velvet al
/ the openings for the hand.
Monkey fur is having perhaps th'