Evening star., 1914-10-04


tional fashion game began,
with Paris holding all the trumps,
America may be standing in to win.
No one realizes this more than those
who are in the trade of clothes. They
know that the game is vital to their
financial interests and that it also
throws down a challenge to their ar
tistic advancement
Durins the month of August there
were hundreds who rushed into the
premature belief that France would not
have fashion display because Of the
war and that America would have to
produce whatever was necessary, at
least as far as her own continent was
concerned There was much talk to
and fro. academic. theoretical and
without basis of fact. Those who were
not in the game were interested and
speculative. Those who were in the
game were distraught. 1t was an un-
easy and iu-ommened time.
Most of the uneasiness was due to
what might not happen. All those of
the trade realized that. Paris still had
the scepter in her hand if she had the
power to use 1t; If circumstances rob-
bed her of this power. could America
get on its own feet in time to govern
question asked Of each other by the
million people who are engaged in the
business of making, selling and Gre
ating clothes.
BY this time every one knows the
result Paris openings were held in
the month Of August, earlier than usual
because Of the scarcity of time that
one could count on. No French person
invest Paris at an early date, but as
long as there was a possibility of it
1t was best to hold the openings and
get what money there was in the
American purses.
This was an admirable business
scheme. and the only reason it did not
result in a greater financial harvest
for Paris was owing to the decree of
the French syndicate Of dressmakers
that cash should be paid when the
gown was ordered, and no credit ex-
tended even to the point of allowing
payment on the deliverance of the
gown.
Money could not be had for the neces-
stiles Of life during the first two weeks
money strtngency of that day has been
too oft told to repeat, but the dress
makers and commissioners who were
in Paris were finding 1t difficult to get
and, because of the panic that swept
over the Americans in .the most amaz-
Ing and unaccountable way, many Of
the buyers left before she dressmakins
houses opened.
The Effect on Americans.
For a time it was thought that this
condition of affairs would have a dras-
tic effect on the American openings, be-
cause the dressmakers realized that 1t
vas not possible to produce race of
designers in a month, and also that if
Paris changed the silhouette, America
would demand material evidence of the
Sketches were coming over, and SO
were gowns, but every one "in the
know" realized that these gowns were
bought before mobilization and that
they were necessarily a gamble.
And the third factor in the situation
that gave the American tradespeoeple
sleepless nights was the lack of trans
portation. During the first twenty
days Of August there were some boats
from England to New York. but how
get to England from Paris? That was
the question.
The trains out of the French capital
ran as they saw fit. and were subject
to stoppage and alterations at any hour
o. the day or night, especially night.
but you couldn't get your luggage So
little was allowed that one had to
choose between carrying a new model
and q change of raiment for ones self
ana after one got to the coast how
get across the channel? Hundreds
slept on the beach at Dieppe and Bou-
Iogne Tor want of accommodations and
tne luggage that one had was thrown
aside by those who had the affairs in
hand 1t was ridiculous for the Ameri-
cans to complain about this treatment
Trunks could not be considered when
troops were being marshaled into bat
tie, yet to hear a vast majority of
Americans protest about their incon-
venience one came to the conclusion
that they thought this gigantic war
was gotten up as an especial irritation
to them.
How the French governmental officers
ever restrained their tempers and kept
their patience under the strain put
upon them by many travelling Ameri-
cans is one Of the wonders of the war.
Carrying Clothes in Pockets.
One ingenious buyer had the dress
maker arrange for her an immense
pair of pockets of canvas that were
slung across the shoulders and rested
on her hips. In each pocket she car
ried two new gowns and put four more
in her travelling case. with change of
underlinen to last until she got to Lon
don.
Many others tried out a dozen
schemes of transporting the new
frocks from Paris to the boat; the old
way of a trunk was the worst way to
try. for no one could be found on the
continent or Great Britain who would
guarantee the arrival of any trunk. no
matter how valuable
The one bright note in the situation
was the arrangement of the continental
trains, which allow an Infinite number
Of pieces Of hand luggage. and al
though porters were lacking, one was
able to struggle along with the help
Of avery one else, with their hands full
OF bundles. in changing trains.
saw dainty little women. who look
ed as II they had never held anything
heavier than shatslaine bag. leaping
across the wooden platform from train
- train. looking like a feminine Santa
Claus. Tho war was a great leveler;
hY sweeping out with q tragic hand all
teo- ooouStomed luxuries and modula-
lions Of life. 1t put human nature face
to face with primitive conditions. And