davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-09-27
The Separate Skirt.

A MoNG separate skirts are seen
pleated models. fastened down
with tape or elastic, but full around
the ankles. Pleated tunic skirts show
clusters of pleats starting from yokes.
clusters of pleats with panels between.
etc. In many cases fullness Is pro-
duced by the introduction of small kick
pleats on the underskirt, which are
pressed down and only show when the
wearer is in motion. Sometimes two
fabrics are employed, the tunic being
of serge or gabardine. and the UNDER
skirt of satin or messaline. Sometimes
the underskirt is in Roman stripes,
while the tunic is of a plain material
or vice versa. Checks or plaids with
plain fabric are also used.
Simple tailored skirts with yokes are
made up in various fabrics. The
founced skirt is among the dressy
styles. and skirt with a deep circu-
lar founce starting at the knees is a
new idea The latest OF all is the cir
cular skirt. which is sometimes trim
med with velvet or satin ribbon, giving
the effect of a TERED skirt
Evening star., 1914-09-27
JET AT ITS BEST.

TlcT as it is used this summer is a
= joy. 1t is always so satisfying to
see any one master the use of any
thing that just the fact that the dress
makers have really learned how to
handle jet as it should be handled is
Il pleasure. Besides that there is the
real beauty of the jet itself, as 1t is
used today.
When jet first made it's temperance
last summer it was failure. 1t was
too heavy, as it was generally manipu-
lated. to be attractive. 1t was not that
it was used in greater amounts than it
is used today-indeed, it could not be
used in greater amounts than it is
today unless coats of jet, like armor,
were made and worn. But it was not
used in the right way. 1t was used in
big, unbroken surfaces. Whole hats
were covered with big pieces of jet;
huge darts of it were used as trim
ming, and big. heavy jet buttons and
buckles were used. 1t was not attrac-
tive and it was not becoming.
But today the dressmakers know how
to use jet to the best advantage. And
their secret seems to be this: Use all
the jet you want, but use it in small
pieces.
Whole tunics of jet are mounted
over black velvet or satin in some Of
Evening star., 1914-09-27

when used is very slight, consisting of
strip of lace Or broad ribbon, or of a
narrow piece of the skirt material. 1t
Is In all cases narrow and of eccentric
shape.
Bodices are in the new, semi-fitted
designs, in surplice effects, in the
straight. ng-waisted cut and in soft
gathered arrangements finished with
wide Sirdles at the waist line. Almost
all sleeves are long and set in at the
regular armhole.
Attractive dancing frocks have TERED
lace f1ounces and semi-fitted bodices
entirely of satin, or of satin in COM
bination with crepe de chine. Others
are of net and crepe de chine. TERED,
ruffled and pleated skirts are the fa-
vorite designs for simple models
Princess effects are used for elaborate
evening gowns. the deep folds of the
bodice being extended below the waist
line and draped gracefully over the
left hip. The sleeves of evening gowns
are very short and the necks are cut
unusually low. Sometimes just a strap
is used.
Evening star., 1914-09-27
SMART GOWNS FOR
THE NEW SEASON

THE new gowns are of two distinct
classes. 1t is in the bodice that
they differ. One has the semi-fitted eff
feet and normal. waist line. The other
displays straight lines from the
shoulder to the low waist line. The
skirt in both cases is growing wider,
and this tendency will increase as the
season advances.
The long tunic has taken the place
of ,panniers. hip fiounces and peg-top
effects There are no bouffant effects
seen in the new dress skirts. Instead
there are long tunics. pleated skirts, plain
designs with skirt yokes. fitted styles
with circular fiounces set on at point
slightly below the knee. skirts with pleat-
ed panels both front and back. and with
circular fiounces at each side about II
inches from the skirt edge. Some new
skirts measure 81. to yards at the hem.
This extra fullness is introduced by
means of pleats, circular hounces, or
by a circular cut of the skirt, which
fits snugly at the hips and falls in
deep folds below. The skirt length is
extremely short, not only for dancing
frocks. but also for street and after
noon dresses. Evening gowns are
with and without a train. The train
Evening star., 1914-09-27

of white velvet flowers there will not
be much ingenuity required in the mil
linery world-at least, not for the pres
ent. Rarely has n shape been advanced
that has met with such general approx
al. 1t has ousted the high, irregular
turoan. although one sees a few mar
row, boat-shaped high turbans in vel
vet. These have little or no trimming.
In truth. few of the hats are depend
ent upon garniture. Everything is in
the shape and the quality of the velvet
or satin used.
There are no felt hats and no soft
hats except the waterproof one of
black or colored oilskin. which is Of
fered for early autumn use.
Few Smart Clothes Here.
One thing is certain: Few. if any.
smart clothes will be worn here Eu-
rope is practically in mourning. Even
ing costumes are taboo. Even the rule
at the Ritz is broken, the bars are
lowered. One may dine in shirt waist
suit if so desired. America wlAi be a
law unto herself in this respect. as she
will be the only one of the fashionable
countries, except Spain and Italy. who
will have any occasion to put on smart
clothes.
Evening star., 1914-09-27
To Enamel a Bed.

FIRST rub the marred paint smooth
with fine sandpaper. Do this gent
ly, so as not to roughen what paint re-
mains upon the iron. If you can get it
all off it will be better. for then you
will have a uniform surface. This
done, go all over the bedstead with
white enamel paint. which is sold at
paint shops and by some druggists
Use broad brush and sweep it
smoothly and evenly over the iron un.
til all is covered.
Let the first coat get perfectly dry
before applying the second. Three
coats may be necessary to make the
whole of the dark iron white. The ad-
vantage of a white enamel apart from
the pleasing effect is that it may be
renewed when it becomes defaced and
that it will be the better for each re-
nswel. $500. -
Evening star., 1914-09-27
coiffure.
The New Decolletage.

Today this decolletage. under the
name of Moyen-age, has ousted any
other. The fact should sadden those
who are not wise enough to follow
their own style or clever enough to
defeat or modify style that is thrust
upon them.
Even if they attempt this straight
line across the base of the neck they
should break it by high white collar
that rolls over into another shape and
SO defeats the hardness of the other.
There is strong tendency here to
wear a stitched standing collar of or
CANDY or lace which does not extend to
the front. but ends just in front of the
ears. This is practical for some faces.
but in the choice of 1t as well as the
choice of any collar a woman should
not hesitate to give time and attention.
1t may seem to be a detail. but it
makes or mars the harmony between
the face and the frock.
Always the Flat Hat.
If the world continues to wear the
fat black velvet hat with it's trimming
Evening star., 1914-09-27
Hair Ornaments.

THERE are beautiful assortments of
hair ornaments. Colored effects in
combs include blue, green, gray and
purple set with rhinestones to match
or with white stones. Amber is very
smart. Shell ornaments are set with
semi-precious stones like pearls. gar
nets, lapis lazuli, etc, encircled in gol-
den scrolls. Plain and colored ivory
ornaments are set with colored stones
in green. purple. red or blue shades.
Spanish combs of high. narrow shape
are now made of every possible design.
One, two or even three combs can be
worn in an elaborately dressed coiffure-
One of a fan shape is worn low on the
left side.
Evening star., 1914-09-27
BLACK LINGERIE.

DLACK lingerie is a new thing in the
- world. Just why it came into be-
ing nobody knows. Probably the rea-
son is that change is always desira-
BILE in fashion; hence black lingerie.
1t is made of chiffon and lace, like
the daintiest of pink and white lingerie,
and it is quite as elaborate as its col
ored predecessors. Sometimes. too,
black lace is used in flesh pink chiffon.
All sorts of neglige garments are
made in black chiffon and lace, usual
ly chantilly. And they are not mourn
ing garments, either. but simply in line
with the new black lingerie.
Evening star., 1914-09-27

the imported evening frocks. But the
jet is mounted in tiny sequins on chif-
fon or net.
Jet grdles are used. but again it is
in diminutive pieces, and it is swathed
about the figure, with much the effect
of fsh's ever-changing sheath. The
long sashes of jet that hang at the
side or front, ending in deep tassels,
are also made of small jet sequins
mounted on net, so that there is no
eaviness, nothing overpowering. even
in sash end tat reaches to the bot
tom of the skirt, or a girdle that
sheathes the figure from bust to hips.
Evening star., 1914-09-27
PUTTING AWAY SCREENS
AND PORCH FURNITURE

jW1HEN putting away your porch fur
niture, select a clear day. Throw
the rugs on the line, place the furniture
and window screens near by, and give
everything a thorough washing with
the hose. When quite dry. the screens
should be lightly brushed with raw
linseed oil to prevent rusting.
Evening star., 1914-09-27
If You Need a Parasol.

(NNE Of the very attractive parasols
of the season is made of striped
silk with a border of plain silk and a
little chou where the stick pierces the
parasol of the plain silk. The handle
and stick are of white enameled wood,
with cut jet top. This parasol sells
for SIS and Is decidedly striking with q
white or colored frock.
Evening star., 1914-09-27

has silk foundation with wide plaid
formed by inch-wide velvet stripes.
There is another velvet and six COM
bination, in which the velvet Is on the
bias. and there are all-velvet gowns
which have two colored stripes, a
fabric which has already been seen on
the American counters.
Evening star., 1914-09-27

be had 1t may not be easy to get that
old fashioned velvet and silk combined
which Premet uses, as we'll as some of
the minor houses, in extremely smart
gowns that have been sold to Ameri-
cans.
If it is not woven. it can be made in
the dressmaking establishment, as it
Evening star., 1914-09-27

back the antique line in clothes the
first consequence was the pleated skirt,
then the high-necked bodice, with it's
straight line across the collarbone.
Certain Frenchwomen always ex-
plotted this kind of neck line, but even
cult to wear. 1t demanded a small face,
Evening star., 1914-09-27

None of these velvets are made into
jaunty little jackets worn with velours
de laine skirts for the afternoon, mar
row long waistcoats in Louis XIV
coats, and wide rolling collars and Or
coats of colored ratine. All the fab
Evening star., 1914-09-27

RIGS of three years ago are used for
street as velours de laine. Satin is
lavishly employed for evening gowns.
also quantities of tulle, SO there is
nothing new to worry about in this
department. Here is where our shops
gain.
When an attempt was made to bring
Evening star., 1914-09-27

The smartest afternoon frocks will
be a combination of velvet and tulls
trimmed with fur.
Evening star., 1914-09-27
May Be No Output in Winter.

In country which calls out all ire
available men in time of war in addi-
ioh TO ITS regular army there is no
nope for regular and organized indus
Try Mills must run, Overs, laeemakers.
enbroiderers- and a host Of other peo-
pie must be on hand to Keep the wheels
going to produce even one new gown
And these industries do not move
W men the shops and dressma kers sell
'he materials they have it will not be
possible for them to get more until the
war is over Taking this into consid-
eration. II Is easy to see that America
VIII not be the arena for French
clothes after this first output is fin
lshed. unless France is at work again
IT America starts its own desirnin~
there viii be much chaos in the begin-
ning. but there is no reason why our
women should not be well dressed
through the process if they GO can
tiousiE and buy with Judgment.
1t viii be exceedingly interestin. to
see the trial made. 1t is not possibJe
10 launch a new style and have il ac-
cepted as long as Paris lays down the
law at the beginning of the season,
but il she doesn't. then what? She
did this autumn, but what of january
Evening star., 1914-09-27
Materials Remain the Same.

There are no special new materials
to fret American dressmakers There
is Vigogne, which Cheruit has intro
duced as substitute for serge and
gabardine. but 1t is two years old, al
though it's lack of usage has kept 1t
from being we'll known.
All the various velvets, plaids, striped
plain, are in use for morning and aft
ernoon frocks. and they can be had in
America At least. some OF them may
Evening star., 1914-09-27

Wide silk braid is coming in for much
attention. In a velvet suit there are
patch pockets of the braid at the hips,
and two bands of the braid form the
lower edge of the foundation skirt that
shows below the long tunic
Evening star., 1914-09-27

black velvet frock for evening has
cerise velvet bodice. There is a long
tunic lined with cerise satin, and the
effect of the bright bit of color in
the tunic lining is very gay.
Evening star., 1914-09-27

FANS, September 8, wv
is no doubt that this
season is the psychological
one for America TO develop
whatever talent she has for
desi icrninC clothes. II is quite
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1914-12-28

mother, he switched over into the
scientific department Of the university
aud began to take all the courses they
had which dealt in any way with
bugs.
Commencement day came and mem
hers OF the graduating class were
light hearted and gay all except How
ard. Ae knew that he would have to
confess at last TO his mother about
the wicked way In which he had let
her believe he was making mechani'
cal engineer 0f himself, when he was
really assoclating himself with
strange insects and becoming a sci
enlist.
His mother sent for an old friend
Of the family to give the lad a talk.
Ing to. This old friend told Howard
that II he would follow MP his scien-
tlfic course by studying medicine there
was stil chance that he might
amount to something. SO, In the fall
OF rs he began to III himself for n
doctor. Meanwhile his fame as an
lnsecter had spread to Washington,
and before he had been at medicine
many weeks he was offered place
as assistant in the bureau Of entomol
oCy I'm which bureau he Is now chief
lie probably knows more about
combating bad insects and mothering
good insects than any man alive.
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1914-12-28
THE LOST PEARL.
tcOOyrigAt 1914 By W, Werner

The last guest at the Preston Hotel
mad left the dining room and the last
table had been reset for the next
mornings breakfast before Zeke,
climbing the back stairs 10 the pri
yncy Of his tiny room above the
kitchen, allowed himself to speculate
concerning the remarkable thing that
hud happened to him.
"Ah is Jes' de luckies' man" he re-
peated 10 himself as he gazed wonder
ingly at the pearl IN his broad palm
A stroke Of good fortune had de
scended upon Zeke like gift from
heaven. With the other walters OF
She Preston Hotel, he had been open.
ing oysters for the consumption OF the
guests nc the evening meal, when
small, bright shining object rolled into
his palm. The others had told him II
was pearl, and he had received
many enylous congratulations A
pearl Hcke drew In his breath sharp
ly at the thought Why, he had heard
,ot rich folks giving az much as hun.
died dollars AZ one stroke That would
bring him nearer than ever 10 his
hearts desire. Zeke had made up his
mind that he would not ask the girl
he loved 20 marry him TIL he could
afford to support her In house Of his
own To that end he had performed
many an extra tnsk In the hope OF the
surplus tip he might gain therefrom
SUme day Heke aspired to be head
waiter, and that would lessen the dis
t0nce between himself and the image
80 constantly before him. Not that
there was much In common between
himself and Mandy Zeke could
neither play nor dance nor sing He
did not shine brightly In conversA.
ton; but he was careful worker
aud he could provide There would
b. no want or wretchedness II she
should give her consent Zeke had
no Illusions about himself He knew
how slim was his chance with gay
Young girl like Mandy Had another
suItor presented himself II n not Ike
ly that he would have had the cOur
age ~ persevere. But no other ns
piiant for Mandy's hand had appear
ed thus far. 40 Zeke had gathered
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1914-12-28

was undoubtedly rival 10 be- fearad
leke's sinking heart told him now
that, beside Tibes magnlficencc. there
was no chance for his sober self
Evidently Tibe felt that way. too.
Iof the grin which he turned upon
Zeke In greeting was affahle I'm the or.
IRENE Hut Zeke was too downhearted
TO resent IT, All the exaltation caused
by his new found treasure had dc.
parted. Their wondering comments
over the beauty Of his pearl brought
him no Joy. What good was the
money the pearl would bring II Man.
dy was going TO marry TlbeY He
handled IL indifferently, and presently
took his leave Mandy's exclamation
over his early departure seemed 10
him merely forced politeness She
wanted him to 40 so that she might
be alone with Tibe.
Reaching his little room M y XIX
heavily on the bed and R bIs
head In his hands. Presently he be.
Thought him Of his pearl and reached
In his pocket to draw II out. A blank
expression came over his face. lie
turned his pocket inside out and
shook out the contents. lie searched
frantlcally. All to no purpose. The
pearl was gone Suddenly he straight.
ened himself, "Tibe Johnslng done
stole nah pu'l," he said furiously.
wait twell An catch dat NiRgah
Ah'll punch his haid IN. Ahp kin
him. Then suddenly the picture OF
Mandy came before him. she would
care n he hurt THE. A heavy siph
escaped him. What did anything
matter now that Mandy was lost Ia
hlml Zeke was of the type that will
die unrewarded for the one he loves.
lf hurting Tlbe would hurt Mandy
he would leave THE alone He would
not even accuse T'ibe " the theft Of
the pearl, Instead he. Zeke. would
pretend that he had lost the pearl
on his way home.
After that zeke went no more Ia
Mandy's. Occasionally rumoS would
reach him that Tlbe was maxim mn
ter Mandy" but though his sors
heart became N possible little sorer
he made no sign. The sympathetic
comments Of the others on the loss Of
his pearl fell duly on his ears. II wa,
AZ II the loss of Mandy were the los,
OF pearf Of great price. besid,
which the loss Of this lesser pearl wa,
OF no consequence
One evening he was sitting solitar,
and moody on the back stems of IN,
hotel. Thoughts Of Mandy fitted be
fore HIS mental vision persistently.
Occasionally he gave n heavy sigh
Suddenly he heard n familiar voice nj
his side. "Zeke, am dis yo'f' Il said
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1914-12-28

chest is likely to disappear with tho
uDgraceful wriggle.
When the old writers spoke Of a
beautiful daughter Of France, the I'm
agination pictured something very diff
fcrent from the quaint little people
who have grimaced the bOulevards Of
lnte years, aud II IL quite probable
that with the return Of peace we shall
see return Of the old type French
woman IN all classes. And the reyiv-
al win benefit not only France hut the
world In general. for what the French
woman does today the women Of all
the civilized world do tomorrow"
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1914-12-28

heart Of hope, aud built high his
dreams.
lie changed his waters costume
now for suit more appropriate TO
the street, and donned brave red
flowing necktlc lie would 60 tell
Mandy about his good fortune As
ho walked down the street his heart
sang. "A hundred dollars Il was
saying to him. He saw the little
house he was going 10 buy for Mandy
and himself In his minds eye His
destination was the small community
near by, called by the white folks
"DRrkytOwn," where Mandy and her
mother made their living by taking
In washing from the hotel The two
were 10 sklllful at laundering that
work was plentiful the year round at
their small home. Though Mandy was
ray and loved good time, no one
could say she was not INDUSTRIOUS.
z.ke reflected ON this fact with salts.
fec'ion ~ he turned IN az the cate.
Suddenly his heart became lead with.
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1914-12-28
Echoes 4. & Streets

dresser drawer at the residence Of
]. NJ. Shores, 1ll4 West Twenty-sixth
street The dresser was badly dam
aged, entailing loss OF nearly $50.
Both alarms were quickly answered
and quick action Of the firemen
checked danger of spread Of the
flames.
Matt Duhr, one OF the oldest and
best known newspaper writer's In the
state, Is In Oklahoma City, He will
seek employment Of the legislature
and remain throughout the session, II
possible Duhr recently came out Of
n Lincoln county hospital where ne
suffered with nervous prostrauon. q,
q
Ben Y. Harrison, retiring secretary
ot state, and member Of the next leg
lslature, who * also candidate for
speaker Of the house, has opened
headquarters In the Lee. Hucklns hotel
In room 405, where he will he glad
TO see his friends and supporters.
Other candidates for speaker of the
house have opened their headquarters
there and Mr.. Harrison wished to ne
In the game with the rest. He has
been making a campaign for the po.
sition and believes he win be the next
speaker
The Oklahoms Society Of Civil En-.
glneers will hold It's annual meeting
IN oklahoma City Wednesday, at the
Lee Huckins hotel The society VIII
he addressed by Or j. G. Mahr, state
health commissioner, with his subject,
the Pioneer IN the Public Health
Field" Or Mahr will discuss sani-
tary conditions ~ they exist through
ont the state, and other interesting
features pertaining TO public health.
Il, Il. Howard, member Of the board
~ affairs, departed tOdny for Sup.
ply, where he will make an inspec-
tlon of the insane asylum for the pur.
pose OF making recommendation 10
the incoming Legislature. The superin.
tendent Of the institution has already
made a report to Governor Cruce. IN
which the needs Of the institution are
very apparent Mr. Howard will
complete his work Of visitation 10
state institutions with this trip.
The Oklahoma City times. [volume] (Oklahoma City, Okla.) 1908-1984, 1914-12-28

lie looked up and he could hardly be.
neye his eyes, His mental Image had
materialixed into Mandy herself,
standing by his side.
"Zeke,' she said, breathlessly, "Ah
was stan'in' by de poch jes now, an
All looked down IN de grass an da'
sho w yO' bo'hn. was yo' publ wha'
yo' mus ha' drap hit" She extended
her hand. Yes, sure enough there was
the pearl cleaning In her palm. "Ah
Jes' couldn't wait ter breng hit ter
you, 30 All done come right erway,"
she said. "Huccome yo' ain tO me
yo' los hitY she added, curiOusly.
But Zeke was too overwhelmed to
answer her question. "YO' done foun
nah publ beside de poch wha' all
drap hit" he exclaimed In amaze
ment Den All been suspicion Tibe
wrongfully. All done thought he
stole hit"
"Yo' thought TIbe stole hit |" echoed
Mandy, "Huccome yo' nebbah tol'
me erbout hitY"
Cause yo' lax Tibe dc hes an All
don wan ter huht go feelins," STAN,
mcred Zeke.
Cause All done lax Tibe de bes' p
echoed Mandy uncomprehendingly. All
az once u light broke upon her troub.
led vision. 80 dat's de reason yo
don come SEE me no mo-"
hit warnt no use" said Zeke,
miserably. "Ef yo lax Tibe de bes
All mought Ies' as well KEEP outen de
way
A tiny smile hovered over Mandys
lips for a moment "Zeke," she said
softly, "Ah don like Tibe de bes'."
Zeke stared at her, dazed for few
seconds. Then, as the truth dawned
upon him. he gathered her into his
arms, His heart swelled. "Ah done
got two pulls now" he said, exult-
lngly, zone In de publ in nah han
an de udder one Ia yo'. An 10 de
Lawd, Mandy, yo is de- mos precious
one ub de two"