davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
Very Latest Fancies of Fashion
Styles of 80 Copied In
New Gowns
By MADGE MARVEL.

difficult to make hoops seem charming
/ spoke of the book muslin boleros
! They are in the shops, ready to wear
and add much to the thin gowns over
which they are to be worn. They stand
out the least bit from the figure. and
are quite pain with neat frilling all
around bordered with the narrowest OF
black velvet ribbon.
Roman stripes rage and will continue
to gain favor as the season advances.
They are used in a number of ways, for
the tunic or panniers or overskirt of
plain silk skirts and to form the bolero
On gowns of serge and poplin. They ap-
pear In the tub silks and are made up
in separate blouses for morning wear
and even for petticoats.
Beads for Trimming.
In ribbons they are the most effective
pattern of the year, and are used for
sashes, for bows on plain frocks. for
Walstcoats and in narrow width offer
any number of trimming possibilities
Faquln makes much of Roman stripes
one OF her most original uses of this
gay silk was for the sash and bolero of
an embroidered MULE gown, and for the
underskirt, over which the embroidered
sca!lops hung SO as to show about three
inches of the silk.
Mime. Paquin also understands the art
OF beads as trimming. She uses them in
the most delightfully."- original way, and
frequently allows them to give the tell
ing note to the entire costume. For exi
ample, in a gown of apricot charmeuse
OF the palest shade the front of the bod
ice was adorned with an oval of fine
black beads with a row of crystals to
form an inner border and a pink bead
rose in the center
BY the way. this touch of black to
bring out the fine points of a costume is
one which the French modiste under
stands perfectly, and one which the
amateur may well take to heart. 1t is
simply wonderful what just wisp of
black tulle at the right place In a frock
can do in the way of giving distinction.
One of the most sensible novelties Of
the season is the waterproof hat trim
ming, which is usually ribbon which has
been SO treated that It appears lac
Quered. 1t is tremendously smart. At
distance IL looks like the most supple
of patent leather made into bows.
Copy't, 1914. Newspaper Feature Service. Inc
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
POWER OF SONG IN DAILY LIFE
f'ma Donna Explains Her Formula for Hab6ue,s

got to feel those words or the song
won work. Once catch the spirit. how
ever. and the tune will take care of
itSelf-and the magic of the formula
Will be apparent
1t stands to reason, if one is happy
all the time. one will defy age. II your
heart Is young your face can't really
grow old. Drive sadness. the blue
deVils' out of. your system and make
JOY take the vacant place, and you'll
De so peaceful In spirit you can't help
being serene in countenance.
Ihere are SO many snarls in life, so
many petty trlGs, so many big discOur-
agements and disappointments and real
tragedies: We all need help-all we can
get L have found II in the singing
Jingle. Lots of other folks have told
me it has helped them lust try II
with your head thrown back and your
heart singing. You've got to put your
hear into your work if you want to
glory in results
one blessing about singing when
Things go wrong is that II keeps one
from saying unkind words
A woman told me she used to quarrel
with her husband and say things which
made them both unhappy for days She
commenced To sing whenever she felt
like quarreling. At first he was angry,
'then amused. and finally he laughed
and the quarrel was over. After few
such experiences they both saw how
iNoi'Si SL1u tillulSl disagree entS
were and never disputed any more
Another good tn ng about singing Is
that 1t keeps you from broOding over
fancled Injuries and plying yourself into
The belief You are poor, much-abused
and unappreCiated person The nobody
Ioves-me' attitude Is the worst state a
woman can get in who wants to be a
success. Let her go around with such
an idea n her poor mudded head and
the reflection of il Cn her face, and
she'll get her wish. Nobody will love
her. They'll run when they see her
coming.
i know woman who heard that her
summer home was burned to the ground.
she burst into song. She's gone mad,
poHr thing said those who heard her
Later she confessed she would have
cried II she hadn't sung. and CRYING al
waNs made her upper lip swell most un-
becomingly.
Every woman looks better when she
sings than when she cr'es
And If you are determined to he sad
] defy You to nut any more heartache
into real bpo-hoos than You can into n
song. II there is real heart reason for
BIS. II will come out In the sOng, and
the relief will be just as great as IL
there had been n deluge Of tears"
copy't 1914. Newspaper Festur. Service. rrr
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
Answers to Health
Questions

NJ. M.-How can 1 avoid headaches
from car riding?
Car sickness Is not rare complaint
1t is often cured by the removal Of
adenoids, enlarged tonsils, earwax,
nasal deformities and muscular eye de-
fects- 1t Is, indeed, an important dis
covery that many supposedly incurable
instances Of dizziness and headaches,
such as yours, can now be cured by the
surgeon and the physical culturist.
Reader-Beneath my eyebrows my
eyes are puffy. and under my eyes there
are dark circles and hollows. l am a
young girl, yet look like an old maid.
HoIlows under the eyes mean loss in
weight and disappearance OF fat. As
the fat disappears the lymph aecumu-
lates under the upper eyeiid, which be-
comes swollen
All you need do Is to obtain ten
hours sleep each night and eat six
hearty meals a day. The poorest OF
girls can do this.
Genevieye-when catch cold my
nose gets sore. What VIII prevent II!
Use absorbent cotton instead of
handkerchief and apply glycerinated
camphor ice as often as it is feasible
Adnniring Student My sweetheart
wishes an enamel which is harmless to
whiten the complexion VIII you tell
US of one?
This is a sweet and harmless one:
One pint of carnation water, two ounces
of glycerine. two ounces OF white oxide
of magnesia-
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
Thus the Latest Modes, When
They Don't Violate the Law
of Utility, Are Artistic. Not
Vulgar or Immoral.

feminine headgear now that he
may paint instead Of the freaks of
yesterday which he would hesitate
to put on canvas.
"All persons will not dress well
in any period. But today. one can
go on the streets. or mingle in
any crowd where there are wom-
en-. and see costumes that hold the
eye for the beauty and harmony of
line and richness Of color"
Freak fashions In art, like freak
fashions in dress. will subside, said
Mr.. Messer. though he expressed
surprise that there was so much
vitality in cubism. post-impression-
ism. futurism and the rest of the
new found artistic 'isms.".
Anarchy Bad In Art.
Back of this art Is a protest
ism in art and in its early and
, milder stages there were races of
distinct and obvious beauty in works
of the new school. In the ex-
aSgerated forms the beauty Is lost
and these artists who would lead
us out Of the wilderness have be-
come mere artistic anarchists. An
archy Is as bad in art as 1t Is in
politics"
Such anarchy is not necesseSS to
lend vitality to art. Mr.. Messer
asserted, and he proceeded to give
an apt illustration of his point.
Here we are Just coming Into
and buoyancy and inspiration in
this spring than there was in the
springs Of a thousand years ago.
I'm art We need TO start the sap
running again, to recreate inspira-
ton, to revjvify the forces Of ma
ture, but all the time the old beauty
and harmony and symmetry and
from these qualities will come forth
a new freshness, a new vitality,
new movement. new vigor. But
VIC never can have a new art any
more than We can have a new
spring.
change the courses Of streams, to
realize the new beauty of nature in
the springtime. Neither can we
blast the old traditions and change
the eternal artistic springs and
rivulets and rivers and create a
so-called new art.
"An We need in art is a child's
freshness of vision.
The Almighty once created order
out of chaos and we hardly are
ready to repeat the experience"
These new forces in art. when
properly subdued, in Mr.. Messer's
opinion will be a revitalizing influ-
ence.
In the same way the freak fash
ions of dress of a few years ago,
he believes have reacted in period
of regard for natural physical form
that more closely approaches the
Greek love of harmonious costumes
than anything that has appeared
since their day.
The Washington times., 1914-04-13

a YOUNG business girl friend of
~ mine said to me the other
~ day, why don't you write
about the kind of lunch a
business girl should eat?" I replied
that ] thought the subject had been
overdiscussed. She said no, that
there was a great deal written about
the business girls lunch in the sum-
nler months. but that she never re-
called reading anything about what
she should eat or how she should
choose from the menus III the low
priced lunchroom, IN general.
A survey of the bills of fare Of sew
sral Iunchrooms shows a prepon-
derance Of fried things, like cro-
Quettes, potatoes, hash, etc. Now,
all these fried foods are TO be avoid
ed as much as possible. because
deep fat frying is not done well in
such places; nor is the fat used al
ways ateve reproach.
Then a croquette or a hash" is
dish to be avoided because it will
not be above suspicion as to its in
gradients. The combination of a
fried hash is, indeed, bad, and my
FIRST general thought would be to
avoid the made hash" and fried
food as much as possible. especially
G1e ''fritter'' forms, which many
iunchrooms delight in.
Further reading of menus showed
very few vegetables except baked
beans or spaghetti Greatly a meat
substitutel. This is unfortunate. as
Vegetables should nave 4 wide place
In the diet. Next, there seems a
great ceal of pastry" particularly
ir its worst forms OF gates ajar."
French tarts and cream pufs. Then
there is also pie. which may be good
as to filling. but which may leave
much 10 be desired as 20 crust The
better lunch rooms serve brown Cr
whole wheat breads. and even good
sandwiches, and some appetizing
salads
II the SOUP served IS good. it is
probably the best single dish 20
choose. especially on cool days; oyS-
ter stew is one OF the best items Of
fCred, or a good Dure". In fruits
there is a limited range until the
berry season is in, and meantime the
balied apple. banana and orange
help US out. At some of the health
culture restaurants they make sDe-
cialties Of fruit and salads and nut
breads The cup custards and the
mucf desIiSed rice puddings are bet
ter than cake, unless II is a very
EoCd quality. as cheap bakers"
cake has nothing mucn out air. col
orinR matter and a pinch Of -four in
its makeup.
In choosing a meat dish, pick out
che in which one piece of meat will
be served. rather than any indistin-
EC.shable hash tyJ,e: avoid fried
foods. he careful about pastry, and
take the least objectionable kinds;
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
The Business Girls Lunch
By MRS. CHRISTINE FREDERICK.

use baked beans and spaghetti as the
main dish frequently; another good
dish is rice and chicken livers," fire.
quently on the menu: 4 good bean or
oyster soup, followed with n custard
or baked apple Is a complete meal"
Use as many vegetables and salads
as possible.
In all choosing think Of the three
divisions OF all food; proteins or meat
qualities: starches and fats, and try
TO keep the right balance between
them. If you Choose a meat .iIsi
don't also eat baked beans or Gus
tard. Do not mix fruit and milk:
do not use fried potatoes and meat,
or fried dessert all at the same
meal; try to go to a place where the
bread. soup, and salad are good
Make your own sandwiches by or
dering cheese and bread separately,
as you usually get more for your
money this way. Avoid the, pie
and coffee habit, and be brave
enough to eschew tempting pastries
so shall You lave no sick head
ache" or dizzy feeling"
Here are some good menus at small
cost, not more than 80 cents each:
co,. - Baked Beans;
Coffee or milk.
II.
Spaghetti.
Fruit salad Cup custard.
Cocoa.
III.
Soup.
Bread and cheese sandwich.
Prunes or sliced oranges
Coffee or tea
".
Rice and chicken livers.
COcoanut cuStard pie. milk
Copyright, 1914. by Mrs. Christine Frederick
The Washington times., 1914-04-13

OF the moment in the setting n s..5d-
ern life.
Back to the days when Grandma was
debutante the clothes makers have
gene, and made over the frocks of 1854
10 fit the figures and needs Of the wom-
an of today
Who of US can remember when book
muslin was Used for collars and under
bodices and little boleros? What do We
know of bell sleeves and black velvet
bracelets. and scalloped skirts. the
except what We have CLEANED from the
old photograph albums or some funny
old clothes scented with lavender
whfch we have fished out of the attic
10 wear TO costume parties?
"Hoop" Effect Reviving.
Even in the very hang of the skirts.
With their extreme shortness and slight
Indication of fulness. there is a GER
laIn coquettish swish which is new to
the memory of most of US, and yet
holds the subtle suggestion of some
hing revived and made modern.
Once in a while a model gown shows
-tand out in startling distinction to
he clinging skirts we have worn so
ong. In Paris there have been sew
raj attempts to revive the pantalettes.
Here the shops offer the modern YER
ion of them under the name of tango
1Ioomers," and many women wear
hem-but not below the skirts. II
ever the logical time for crinoline could
arrive in these days of too little space
Il is here. We have accepted the new
fdea of the bust, and it might not be
The Washington times., 1914-04-13

the outcries of stern moralists of
the Anthony Comstock school
The human figure is one of the
most beautiful forms in nature to
the artists mind. And the present
day gowns have their greatest
artistic value in the fact that they
follow the contour of the figure,
disclosing it's graceful lines, and
setting off its eNquisitely balanced
proportions.
Contrast the narrow skirt
wide enough. mind you, to allow
freedom OF movement-with the
bell shaped crinolines. or the hor-
rible spectacles of the hustle
period. Any artist should know
that the simplicity of the present
day gown is more beautiful.
THE freak hats of the past year
had not much to recommend them,
but from the extremely large ones
of few years ago. and the ex-
tremely small ones that followed
in their wake. there is growing n
happy medium. And the artist has
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
BY ELEANOR AMES

motto. / have dozens OF tunes for It.
Sometimes ] chant it in a slow chant.
Other times | make an aria of it Some
times ii IS a simple sentimental ballad
and sometimes it is wild, weird folk
song. Naturally, one can't solve all
problems 10 the same tune. But the
words never vary. You NAV say bad
ness or madness instead of sadness,
II the words seem to fit your case bet
ter. Singing will work equally well in
correcting any one, or all three states
OF mind.
Singing will bring something akin to
happiness II you persist in Ii and sing
with your heart as well as your voice.
Perhaps II is better to make YOUR
heart always stronger than your voice.
Most of us like to hear our voices so
well there Is never any fear but the
volume of noise will be sufficient, but
in this song noise doesn't count half as
much as the heart back of IT. You've
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
TIMES BEDTIME STORY

..Rang," went his head on the ice anil
there he lay stunned.
Mrs Rabbit and Mister Beaver pick
ed him up and carried him home and
put him in bed
When Brer Rabbit woke up Mrs
Rabbit was standing over him.
where an I:'' he asked
"You are at the bottom OF the pond
drowned" said hrs. Rabbit.
"Ouchr' said Br-r Rabbit.
Whats the natter" asked his wife.
1T hurts my poor head to laugh"
said Bre- Rabbit. rs ne turned ever
and went to sleep.
Copy't 1914. Newspaper Feature Service. Inc.
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
Bv GEORGE HENRY SMITH.
lister BEAVER was gnawinS
MI the bark of a tree when
IV Brer RABBIT came along

Brer Rabbit came slons
very slowly.
What's the matter with you%" asked
Mister Beaver. You look very sad"
MY wife played a joke on me last
night. She madc ne put a piece or
wood on my back when 1 started out
skating" said Brer Rabbit:
That's too bad replied Mister
Peaver, still gnawlrg at the tree.
Il don't like to have jokes played
on me-" said Brer RABBIT.
is that because sou like 10. pla!
Jokes on other pcople?" asked Mr.
beaver, as he stopped his work
NO" answered Brer. Rabbit Il
don't play many jokes"
You better run along now. for L
am very busy. # YOU had something
10 do. YOU wouldn't have time to play
Jokes or have Jokes p,ayed on you"
IF you will lena me your skates
will Just skate u:ound here without
any wood on my pack and my wife
won't know anything about 1t.
Il don't mind how much you skate,
said Mister Beaver so long as you
don't bother me-.
Brer Rabbit Put on Mister Beavers s
skates and went sailing around the
pond.
By and by Mrs. Rabbit came along on
her way to see Mrs. Squirrel. She saw
Rrer Rabbit whiriing around and she
hId behind a tree to watch him. Pretty
soon Brer Rabbit slipped and fea.
The Washington times., 1914-04-13

ern dress first, Mr.. Merrer believes
the costumed figures of the 1914
street or ballroom should be of
keen interest to artists as subjects.
Il find many of the gowns seen
on the streets, as well as in the
home. interest me thoroughly from
an art site standpoint. There are
abnormalities and lunacies in dress
as there are in art. There were
similar abnormalities in every period.
But there has been a reaction
from these abnormalities even in
the last year. The extremes of the
new styles seem to have given place
to n more subdued general tone,
bringing out the general basic idea
without undue emphasis.
Utility First.
'Of course. the extreme narrow
skirt is not artistic. not because il
is immoral, but because il violates
the relation of utility to art A
thing of art should be adapted to
the use for which it is intended. A
gown should be convenient to the
wearer, first, and upon the require
ments for such convenience should
be based its artistic elaboration"
A gown should suggest and fol-
low the lines of the human figure.
stoutly asserts this artist, despite
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
Secrets of Health and Happiness
Vigor Makes Success In
Life Easier J.
DR. LEONARD KEENE HIRsHBERG, B, A. D. (Johns Hop

throughh the fortress OF life. Every
soiled towel. each unsterilized handker-
chief. the unboiled water you drink are
attacks in the dark. Your living, visible
enemies have hosts of allies in those
unseen assassins. the disease germs
copy't. 1914. Newspaper Feature Service. Inc.
DR.. HHshberg will answer ques-
tions for readers of this paper on
medical, hygienic, and sanitation
subjects that are of general inter
est. He Mill not undertake to pre-
scribe or offer advice for individual
cases. Where the subject is not of
general interest letters wiH be an
swered personally if a stamped
and addressed envelope is nclosed.
address all inquiries to DR.. L. X.
Hirshberg, care this office.
The Washington times., 1914-04-13
Sing a song OF gladness,
Youth is a!ways here.
Sing away all sadness.
Song keeps beauty near.

THAT little DIT IF doggerel is my
philosophy of life." says Arline
Il FTedericks, Il felt the need of
something to hold me up when
was in danger of slumping. Whistling
to keep ones courage up is a proverb.
but 1 would rather sing than whistle.
I've always sung myself through any
particular discouragement, and I've
worked out most OF my problems
through song.
"One day that funny little rhyme
came into my head. and ! scribbIed it
down on a bit of paper. for it seemed
so full Of inspiration, that quality we
all know as 'uplift.' / made it my
The Washington times., 1914-04-13

- A T T L z s
x have made
IL much work
for tears in
many a mother
whose sons lie
scattered on the
bleeding ground.
T o row e l.
ing in the cold
embrace Of the
discolored earth
Is a poor reward
for years devoted
e. tIn L,srIf--
The Washington times., 1914-04-13

< ET an old
y ia $ h 10 n ed
posy bed gay
with Bic e d | n (
Heart and Johnny
jump ups and
S W e e [ William
plump in the midst
of the marble and
green formality OF
an Italian garden.
and you have the
impression given by
the quaint clothes
The Ely miner., 1914-09-11
lNSURES LIVES OF UMPlRES
for Its Basebalers-Not
Afraid of Fans.

Arrangements have just been COM
pleted whereby the National league
has taken out accident insurance poll
cies in favor of the ten umpires on
the rolls of this organization.
This is not due to any demonstra
tions on the part of players or spec
tators that have been made or may
be made against the persons of the ar
Diters of play, although it is not like
ly that the chance of some wayward
soda-pop bottle colliding with som'
Empirical dome of thought was al
together ignored.
The action Of the league authorities
is in line with policy of protect
ing against railroad accidents, flying
balls and the like, it being the prac-
tice, when an umpire has been in
iured in the line of duty, to Gefray
the cost of medical and surgical at
tention, while at the same time keep
ing the incapacitated field judges
upon the salary rolls during periods
Of inactivity.
Terms of the policies call for pay.
ment of $25 week while victims are
out of commission, $4,000 in event of
death and $4,000 in event of death in
q railroad accident. 1t is considered
likely that the American league will
follow suit
The Ely miner., 1914-09-11
SPITBALL IS IN DISREPUTE
Wise Pitchers in Big Leagues Have
Cast Moist Sphere Aside
Shortens Careers.

The spitball is falling into disuse.
says the Philadelphia Public Ledger.
very few of the twiflers in the big
leagues are using it today, and those
VINO do are using 1t sparingly. The
wise pitchers have cast it aside, know
ing that even though the use of the
moist fling may add to their string
of victories, it will mean the shorten
ing of their careers.
Jack Chesbro used it back In 1904
when he almost pitched the Yankees
into the leadership of the league But
the use of the spitball practically
ruined ChesbrO as a star performer.
Ed Walsh used the spitball for several
years, and his success was phenomen-
al. But the price was high, for Walsh's
arm today is in such condition that he
never knows whether it will serve him
the full route or whether kink will
appear and force him to surrender the
hurting job to a relief pitcher.
jeff Tesreau used the spitball to a
great extent when he first landed on
major league SOIL But he isn't doing
1t with such reckless abandon as Of
yore. jeff soon learned that the spit
ball "kinked" the arm, if used freely,
and now he throws it only in emergen-
cies.
There are several other pitchers in
the big leagues who still throw the
spltball, but they are throwing it just
about half dozen times during the
game. Some of the fans believe they
throw it oftener because of the decep-
ton practiced by the pitcher-of put
ting the ball up near the mouth and
seeming to lubricate it. Batters aren't
fond of spitballs. They hate to see