The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-04-12
NJ CLAUDE CHERYs.

women's Patriotic League IN
connection with slit skirts and ultra !
tscollets evening corsages The Paris
and London newspapers have debated
this affair and several we'll known So
ciety women in France have permitted
their names to be freely used in con-
nsction with the discussion. The matter
Of the most famous dressmakers in the
Rue de Ia Paix in Paris has publicly
announced that she will not make any
more slit skirts for private wear or for
The stage.
It is rather an amusing little tempest
in a teacup. For after all the silt
skirt had sounded its own knell. 1t was
very nearly dead when tout lie monde"
set about killing II. II Is some time
since women Of refined taste wore cutup
skirts unless q pleated underdress ac-
companied them. As to decollete eve
ming corsages. all I can say II that
though many are cut down In . very
daring point at tho back. criticism Of
them is rarely justified because Of the
natural corset. 1t is only when an un-
natural. pushed up appearance 10 given
to the bust and shoulders that = decol-
lete corsage looks not quite the thing.
The classic draperies which are 20
much used to-day by the best Dress
makers frame the bust and shoulders
In charming fashion. OF course the
deep V at the back can be unneces-
sarily exaggerated. but az a rule this
Ia not the case; and also, as a rule, q
cloudlike scarf OF white or pale pink
tulle Is worn over the shoulders.
Worth and Redfern are both making
delightfully."- picturesque lace and chiffon
scarf draperies to accompany their moro
elaborate evening gowns. These sca-fs
are thrown on In shawl fashion. and a.
they are extremely fragile and trauspar-
ent they add the charm Of mystery to
already beautiful skins. One finds SUCH
scarf draperies as these introduced on
many OF the latest models and with
splendid effect.
Notwithstanding all that has been
said. and lie still being said. on the sub
1ect Of eccentric fashions We are in
reality rapidly approaching q period Of
Ideally feminine styles. No one who
has the right to pass behind the scenes
In the world of dress can doubt this
statement. Everything points to the
fact that women are going to be in
tensely womanly so far as dress L. con-
cerned in the year 1914
They are even going to be huffy and
fr!lly and clouded in perfumed mys-
ter!es composed OF fine lace and pleated
tue II Is a long time since women as
sex have been really fluffy and frilly.
II Is n very long time since they conde-
scended to wear lace nantes which
might almost be called shawls: since
they have permitted their little feet to
disappear behind a foam Of accordion
pleated petticoat frills.
But 1914 Is to be largely . year OF
frills and founces. OF lace and chiffon
and embroidered tulle. OF flower decked
hats and streaming ribbons, OF dainty
Little kid shoes and extra long button
LEES sloveA Tho year 1914 Is even
going TO be year OF flowing mantles.
Before take up tho subject Of these
picturesque nantes seriously there II
Just one ANAL word to be said on the
subject Of the Outrageous dress' ques-
don. A certain influential dressnaker
IN Paris has made Q vigorous and abso-
futely unmerited attack upon American
women in connection with this topic.
He has said in print that nothing Is
too daring for our American customers"
He has also said "It Is the American
And not tho French woman who creates
the demand for indecent dresses"
Now this believe to DO quito untrue
- tar as American women are con-
osrned. do not say that certain
American buyers are not responsible
tor many "outrageous' fashions, for
some OF these buyers care nothing
about dress from an artistic point OF
GO rtl ipD l.
ties. This / know to be the case. And
though the majority Of the American
buyers who come to Paris several times
each year are men OF excellent and re-
fined taste there are a few who insist
on sensational novelties, and these nov
elites are shown and discussed and
copied until they really seem to rep
resent tho latest Paris fashions" The
average individual is only too willing
10 pass on a parrot cry: the average
journalist ~ eager to make copy out
of any sensational thing, no matter
what i may be. And so the ball begins
10 roll, and who can tell when It will
Eopo
think 7 remember speaking in a re-
cent article Of the semi-Spanish capes
which began TO be fashionable Q few
Weeks ago and which are now an abso-
'ute rage. They are varied In design
ana in material. but all belong to the
sam" family, for each one II loose and
Vo'um'nous | have sketched this week
very beautiful model. Redfern crea-
ton for the Riviera season.
Tho dress was made Of chalk white
amazon cloth and the skirt was very
elereviy draped In front-it seemed
c!Ag!ng at the feet, but there was
p'ehty OF material. The smart little
"aistcoat was fashioned OF thick hand
mace silk which showed stripes OF dried
orange on Pompe!an red ground
the ball buttons were in red enamel AND
an inner vest was OF fine white liner
hhNhed with a Medici collar.
ihen tho cloak. which was Of the mill
'y persuasion. was made of HussaI
quo cloth. and the lining was . heav,
rooeo SILK In a rich shade Of POmpeiAr
o The big collar OF tho cloak wa
'urned over with the red silk and Il wal
sNoeehar an admirable and prsctica
model
N'oaks Of this order arc immensel,
Whl.ar with the Parisiennes. The,
"''r them at the races. In the street. a