Evening star., 1914-09-27
Peeps at the Fashions

ONE of the alluring trimmings of
the new season is ostrich, and
one of the most alluring ways
of using it is at the hands and throat
Of silk or satin frock. One in old
gold charmeuse of soft color and tex
ture has brown ostrich fiues outlining
the round neck and finishing the very
long sleeves.
When the dressmakers first began to
leave selvage edges exposed at the
bottom of skirts and draperies, and at
any conceivable point on the bodice.
there were exclamations of amaze
ment. But the freedom that this use
gives to the fabrics, have more than
justified it. 1t is still used in the same
way in the new models.
with band of ostrich fiat around the
edge of the brim, on top, and on the
under side of the brim a big pink rose,
edged with ostrich f1ues.
A black satin evening gown has
very attractive sleeves. There are
deep blue tulle foundation sleeves that
reach over the hands, and over these
| shirred sleeves, equally long, of black
tulle.
Broadcloth and satin are much COM
bined For instance, there will be a
skirt of broadcloth with a bodice of
satin. Plaid broadcloth is also used.
But it is plaided in dull. deep colors.
These colors, which are employed IN
the seasons plaids and stripes, are in
finitely more pleasing than the vivid,
garish colors used last year.
On some of the new skirts that are
f11lI of hn foh yat<,
ployed to control this fullness On a
gray velvet frock with a pleated pep
lum big pockets of satin are used on
! the hips. Sometimes these pockets are
embroidered.
Beaver, fitch, fox of various sorts.
monkey, kolinsky, broadtail-all these
furs are employed by the famous de-
| signers. Some of them, too, are OPEN
ly using goat. Goat, by the way, is
only one. for monkey fur, which has
grown rather scarce since it became
popular.
In the new models. which an enter
priSing buyer was fortunate enough to
get to America, the skirts are decided
ly short, and a striking feature of
them is that in the evening frocks
there are many trains hanging from
very short skirts. Sometimes the
front to the end of the long train;
sometimes the long, pointed train
hangs from a skirt that is short all
the way around. The effect is novel.
Red and brown. an old-fashioned
combination, have been well used this
summer. A very smart hat that mas
been seen lately is a big brown velvet
canotier, with two huge red velvet
roses on one side of the top of the
crown.
Sleeveless evening frocks are the
rule. Perhaps it is the Grecian in
f1uence. the same that led Paul Poiret
has brought about these sleeveless
frocks. Certain it is that they are
very attractive. Sometimes there are
jeweled bands to hold them over the
bands of flowers or folds of tulle. Then
the corsage is cut off square at the
back and front and under the arms
Sometimes the bodice is made in points
that are held on the shoulder with
ieWeled clasp or a single flower.
Sometimes the tunic is cut short IN
front and SO long in back that IT com
pletely hides the foundation skirt, 1t
self extremely short. in the back. IN
the front the foundation skirt, OF chill
fon. shows for three or four inches.
Not quite sleeveless are the frocks
with tulle sleeves. However, since
the sleeves are not evident at the
shoulders. but float away from the
bodv in billowy clouds. they. are al
most negligible-as sleeves As lovely
drapery they are decidedly eHectlVe-
Sometimes the tulle starts at the shoul-
ders and floats away apparently with
ont reference to the arms. but it is held
to each wrist by narrow Jeweied
hand. a band of velvet ribbon or
hand of metallic braid
Of gray, to wear with a gray velvet
suit lined with blue chiffon. fhe
bodice shows embroidery of silk to
vol,e depth in back. Another new
blouse is made of white chiffon. tucked
the tucks stitched with black SILK
This black stitching on white is note
of many of the new blouses. and 1t rs
decidedly effective. white satih
blouse shows embroidery III plue' reo'
Yellow and green glass beads In a
,snS around the neck and down the
fronts. A rolling collar rises ABOVE
the embroidered band.
Serge and satin are now combined,
and many a serge frock, with a lohs
serge tunic, has a black satin founda
t;on skirt and other touches OF plAch
s.t;n sometimes there is inoyeh-
100 s,in of blue serge with black SATIN
foundation SklTt anu oAhSn
sleeves that reach to the knuckles.
Some of the new evening models
have anron drapery in the front, and
a,, odd thing about it is that the apron
section falls longer than the founda-
tion. The apron is of metallic lace
An evening gown of black velvet
shows a bodice made half of velvet,
half of tulle. One side of the bodice
is of velvet and the other half of tulle.
CO tbat one shoulder is visible through
foldS of tulle the other invisible
through folds of velvet.
,.r coior and some suits of geranium
red wool have been seen among the
newest models. Brilliant red is used