The Washington herald., 1914-06-14
Fashions at the Capital
The Well Dressed Smart Society Whas She Wears
The Time and Place.
By .

That coming events cast their shadows
before is undoubtedly true In the matter
of fashion, yet in no particular realm OF
feminine life does the present time. and
the present tense come into It's own as
in the matter Of dress.
With the mercury coquetting with the
nineties for days at a time the fashion
able woman left in Washington for any
reason, concerns herself little beyond
keeping cool.
Some, there are, entirely satisfied to
keep cool in last years muslins and
laces. and for them the present days
and nights have little terror, for life
at the country clubs has become simple
in the extreme, and a dinner on the roof
of the Army and Navy Club calls for
nothing more elaborate than white
muslin gown such as is always to be
found in the wardrobes Of Washington
maids or matrons with a sense Of fitness
in dress.
These easy going ladies, while more
numerous in Washington than in many
q city, do not however. make up the en-
tire fashionable world, and the women
who wish to be smart as well as COM
Portable are giving a cordial reception
to the new tunics without a trace of pam
nier, the deep straight. long wasted bod
ice and the rufied skirts all Of the pro-
nounced 1914 brand.
These very distinct modes are pointing
the way for the wise, for already in
Paris the gowns of next winter are COM
ing into being on these same new summer
lines.
Newport. Narragansett and Bar Har-
bor will all show summer gowns that are
distinct departures from anything We
have had in Washington this spring.
even in the trouseau of the White House
bride.
The bridesmaids gowns at the Roose-
velt- Willard wedding were examples of
what Washington may expect OF see at
the first large dance of next winter. The
satin underskirts were narrow as ever.
but the overdresses of tulle which came
almost to the ankles were full at the
waist line and stood out at the hem with
all the self assertion OF an old-time hoop
skirt.
Mrs Preston Gibson, who secured a
wardrobe equal to the fullest demand Of
the North Shore and Newport before
leaving Washington. gave her friends
view of one of her smartest dinner
gowns at the last country club dinner
she attended just before going North.
This is a gown entirely of tulle. the color
one Of the latest shades of vivid pinks.
The skirt has no train. but touches the
ground. 1t is covered from belt to hem
in plated ruff1es Of only slightly gradu-
ated width. The top has close folds of
tulle over a fitted lining Of the same col
or satin with one large pink rose high
up on the shoulder There is also a wide
sash of tulle allowed to fall slightly to
the side at the back.
A fascinating gown made for the Mar
ragansett season. but given its initiation
at a recent small and smart afternoon
party, was worn by Miss Margaret Bar
bour. This shows how the skirt may be
of one materal and the bodice of an
other while preserving the highest degree
of style. This skirt is narrow. has black
and white stripes OF equal width with a
seam down the center, throwing the
stripes in a diagonal line. The top is
entirely of white chiffon over an inter-
lining of delicately figured lace. There Is
the usual deep v at the neck with quite
unusual sleeves. starting loosely at the
shoulder. but fitting closely at the wrist.
A broad girdle, which is one of the dis
tinctive features of this direct importa-
ton. IS eight-inch Oriental ribbon. dark
crimson in background overwrought in
gold and white and black. topped by
either a white or a black hat This is
the ideal Casino gown OF which we often
hear but rarely see in Washington
What is perhaps the most significant of
many changes in afternoon gowns in
tended for formal wear, is the use of
white satin.
This fabric once pre-empted entirely by
brides. and even for dinner gowns worn
with an explanation. is now the founda-
tion OF the ultrasmart tailored costumes
that will grace the Casino at Newport
or abroad.
Mrs. George Marye, whom her Wash
ington friends hope shortly to describe
as the mistress Of the American EN-
bassy in Paris, introduced the satin and
serge gown of the highest known terms
in Washington last week at the garden
party of the Secretary of State and Mrs
Bryan. This is made with a narrow
skirt of pure white satin, real bridal
satin, as it is cut in straight lines and as