davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06
THE ARTEST Millinery

cept the gilt braid on military caps.
Sprays Of stamped velvet flowers and
leaves covered with marabou OF the
same shade are new. In this style the
fective.
Scorched and glycerined ostrich effects
are worn alone or with the full French
plumes. Broad quilts are edged with
fringe of aisrette, fur ostrich. Fac
ings of ostrich are worn inside and outside
of brinl. Beaded ornaments are strik-
insly mingled with ostrich. Wings are OF
various shapes, long pairs appearing with
a band of hackie or ostrich.
Large chrysanthemums and caraeilias
are made of ostrich with small artifl-
cal flower in the center. There are
weeping willow pompons OF ostrich or
hackle, which are sometimes made to re-
seinble a fiat flower Tinsel and ostrich
are smart. Scotch plaid feathers are
also seen. Flowers sometimes have
center of fur. Metal flowers are very
light and airy on fur shapes.
Military shapes and trimmings are
smart. A torpedo-silaped hat plainly
covered with velvet is trimmed with
quilted rosette of MORE or Ottoman rib
bon A peaked tam crown on a close head
band covered with fur is called Petrograd.
A scout shape of velvet or felt is trim
med with ribbon or velvet with ostrich or
wings An English officers staff cap Is
made of black velvet with gold braid
dividing the peak from the hat
A becoming hat has cluster Of small,
double dahlias, frost bitten, in dull shades
of wine, orange, pink, purple and brown,
thrust into very smart brown band Of
what looks like blurred streaks and
blotches of brown on a purple ground.
Another hat, rather larger in outline, Is
of black velvet with a soft crown Of
beautifully brocaded velours. in stripes Of
black strewn with small punches Of Diff
ferent- cOlored leaves.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06

farther and farther toward the highest
place. We are brilliant and precocious
pupils. but go far we are only pupils.
And possibly we shall be content to
always draw our inspiration from the
Frenchwoman, who. be it always re-
membered, is the power behind the
French designers
Nine. Paquin once told how a well
dressed Frenchwoman chose a costume.
and afterward no one could fail to see
the logic Of doing an important thing
we'll and with the highest efficiency.
Otherwise, why do 1t at all. was the
comment of the famous dressmaker.
And there was no answer.
This Frenchw oman is not always rich.
She is often far from it. The "elegante"
Is not judged in Paris by the money
she spends, and the greatest houses
are happy to serve her for prices no
American or actress could compel. for
the reason that she displays her cos
tunes in an atmosphere that is exceed
ingly hard for an artist to reach, and
that she gives due deliberation to what
she wears, knowing that one costume
must serve several months.
When she goes abroad in it there is no
critic, no matter haw captious. who can
say that 1t is incomplete. Whatever else
it is. it is not that. And this is the les
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06
n TIDWINTER ntlbnarv styles in
NU Guide practically ave,y type of hat.
from the smallest 70 the large dress

KTDw1NTER miirasry styles in
NU Guide practically avery type of hat.
from the smallest 10 the large dress
hat with wide. eweev;ng brim. An
interesting diversity of styles is seen
in the lines of turbans and small hats,
and in almost all instances a soft eff
feet is evident. which is usually shown
in the crown. which is without wiring
or stifening OF any kind. Tams are
seen again with a felt brim and full
crown of satin, panne or pile velvet.
Black velvet is by far the most popu-
Lar material used on millinery at pres
ent although as the season advances
touches of color will be seen to offset
the dark. somber colors in dresses.
a variety of trimming styles is seen
on both small and large hats. Trim
mings are either high or law Small
close-fittinS shapes favor the high
trimmings. In the large shapes trim
ranged to give picturesque effect.
Fur cloth is used with real fur for
trimming. Felt and satin are richly
combined. adding fur. moired ribbon or
tinsel flowers. Silver cloth Is used for
entire turbans with a large bow of
SAKE blue, cerise ottoman ribbon or
one of black velvet ribbon.
Nothing is more effective than a
handsome bow of rich ribbon. and the
large bows are of very wide ribbon in
satin. moire.- faille or ottoman. Corded
ribbons in narrow widths are made up
into rosettes. quilts. tassels, bands, etc.
Jet is used in bands. tassels. as birds
of spangles and various other orna-
ments. Either large or small velvet
flowers. preferably large flowers, are
oftentimes arranged singly on the
brim- Tinsel flowers. braids and cloth
are used on velvet and also with fur
effects. Silver Is smarter than gilt, ex-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06


tune. She does not carry her
supervision of 1t far enough. Through
indifference or lack of money or lack of
time she leaves a costume in sketchy
state.
II Is quite probable that this criti-
cism is true. The reason may lie in each
cr all Of the conditions mentioned. The
usual plea for incompleteness in any de-
partment of the American woman's life
is want of time, but it may be paren-
thetically remarked that the ma jority of
women would live better and far more
restfully if they had the Taylor system
of efficiency and organization applied to
their daily lives.
Lack of time Is usually lack of Or
ganization, which is borne out by the
fac, that the busiest men and women
who have accomplished much in their
lives are those to whom We turn when
We want something quickly done. and
We are not kept waiting. That is an
experience So common to all of us that
1t does not need enlarging. We often
ask ourselves why this is so, and if we
would only search deep enough we would
md the answer in the power of organiza-
zion and elimination possessed by those
persons.
A woman will tell You with an ex-
travagant loss of nervous vitality how
much she has TO do, how il keeps her
from getting her costume finished or an
important book read or notes written or
friends attended to or the newspaper
glanced over; and while she is telling YOU
now little time she las because she is SO
rushed. she is using up valuable moments
IN which much could be accomplished;
q Inc TNar h fvalr TO-
ties and raspinS her nerves.
II she would give over the half hours
day that she expends in saying how
much she has to do in actually doing
the things she hasn't the time to do
she would be astonished and delighted
at her achievements, and freer from
nervous excitement than she has ever
been.
slant repetition of how much one has
to do and how difficult it is to find
time for the right things or the ar
tistic finish of any occupation only in
creaseS the burden of those things, and,
worse still, accentuates them to such
degree that they grow out of all pro-
portion to their value.
There is no peace in drifting One
must be mollusk to stand still, and
it takes all ones vitality to be a sue
cessful mollusk. To simply drift with
the current of affairs is to be hit by
facts. swirled by whirlpools, engulfed
in the wake of stronger bodies whirl-
ing rapidly or thrown on the bank to
rot
No. We have to use organized force
TO be at peace in this world, and no
woman who has an atom of character
escapes the problem of how to ad-
minister the essentials of life so swift
" and capably that she allows her
self time for the pleasures and the
development of her mental life.
Efficiency. organization, peace and
plenty These are the watchwords
that spell prosperity in great affairs
we'll as for individuals. All of which
is not far cry from the preface If
YOU would do thing well YOU must
do it thoroughly, which is too old
maxim to have much value except in a
copybook, where it is laboriously copied
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06

by pen In hand and tongue in cheek.
and promptly forgotten. Still. in this
game of efficiency which the working
world is playing the old motto has
taken on renewed luster and the words
are translated into the modern jargon
which we all affect.
The new conditions of Anglo-Saxon
life which have imposed upon us a
method of living which resembles
foot ball game have come on us so
rapidly that our mental natures have
not yet grasped the easiest and best
ways TO cope with them to our own
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06

ion for the one-piece frock have resulted
in demand for a blouse that carries out
the component parts of the skirt or, at
least, strongly suggests it in color and in
design.
This does not mean that the wash white
blouse is forsaken. On the contrary, it
has developed strength through the cot
ton crusade and through the outgoing of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06

chiffon as such a popular factor in sep
arate bloises. First, Georgette crepe took
the place of the chiffon, then women went
back to their first love. which is the sim
pie blouse of a washable white material
not overburdened with embroidery or lace.
Already, because Of this verdict, the over
trimmed thin waists in non-washable ma
tcrials seem to be out of keeping with the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06

son that the average American woman
needs to learn, to have impressed upon
her.
She is an incompletely turned out
production in sartorial way. She hon
estly believes that she has not the time
to pay attention to the accessories of her
costume, and that she can cover up many
of her deficiencies with the racial gift she
received from nature, which is the abll-
ity to carry off clothes in a spirited way.
What a satisfying creature she would be
if she did not depend too much on this
gift and would aid and abet 1t by the
application of intelligently expended
effort.
X i
If, for instance, she took the time
to plan out a harmonious street costume,
inclusive of every detail, and TO do the
same with an evening costume. After
that she could dismiss the entire ward
robe from her mind for the next fe"
months and turn to worthier pursuits.
When one picks up the component parts
of a costume piecemeal the season IS well
nigh over before one has the chance OF
getting a good ensemble. and surely theie
is extravasance and lack OF efficiency IN
this condition One week Of constant Ell
| fort directed at the proper clothes to wear
for vital occasions saves one twelve weeks
of constant friction and possible fall
ure.
That garment which goes with the coat
and suit is never easy to choose, and 1t is
especially difficult this season for several
reasons chief of which is the fashion for
one-piece frocks and the consequent de-
sire of most women to have their blouses
appear as a continuation Of the skirt and
serve for all manner of occasions wheil
the coat must be lifted.
1t has long been Il fashion to retain
the coat in a room where one is calling
or lunching-except in a private house at
a formal meal-and this gave rise to some
carelessness concerning the kind of
blouse beneath, the main object being to
secure good neckwear, which was much
in evidence because the jacket was loos-
ened. Now the wheel has turned. The
incoming of the top coat, which is re-
moved in the dressing room. and the fash
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06
Want of Organization
Blamed for Lack of
Completeness Pa
risiennes' Method of
Dressing Worthy of
Study - Concerning
the New Blouses.
Pretty Basques of
Satin-Useless Econ
omy.

VHE statement has often been
made that the average woman
over here is not complete
enough in her choice of cos
tune. She does not carry her
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-12-06
SKATING COSTUME OF RED VELVET

satisfaction and this is the primal rea.
son why womenfolk, chiefly, are out OF
breath.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
In GwaIior City.

The state Of Gwalior, in central In,
dia, is one of the wealthiest and most
progressive districts in the great east,
ern empire. Gwalior City, the state
capital, has fine public buildings and
parks. The maharaja's palace is
larger and more ornate than the oil
cial residence Of the president of the
United States. The furnishings are
magnificent. At official banquets a
most ingenious American electrical de-
vice of silver is used for passing
around the after-dinner coffee, cordials
and cigars. This is in the form of a
miniature locomotive and train of cars,
which, operating from an electric bat
terry and running over a diminutive
track laid along the table. is so con,
structed that it automatically stop'
before each guest.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Unusual Offer To Our Readers.

For limited time. and subject to
withdrawal after 80 days, the we'll
known publishing house of the j. B.
Lippincott Company. Philadelphia.
founded in 1892. offers to the readers
Of this paper a IL months subscrip-
ton to "Lippincott's Magazine" and
a years subscription to the Kentuck-
ian. both for $500. Thisis the price
of twelve months subscription to
'Lippincott's" alone. Additional to
obtaining every issue of this paper
for year, our readers will receive
/. In "Lippincott's," IL great complete
novels by popular authors. los short
stories. crisp, entertaining. original
% timely articles from the pens Of
masters. and each month some ex-
cellent poems with the right senti-
ment, and "Walnuts and Wine"
the most popular humor section in
America. To obtain this extraordin-
airy offer prompt action is necessary,
Remit to j. B. Lippincott Company,
Washington Square. Phila.. Pa.
Advertisement.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
SUGAR FROM sAWDUsT.

In the course of a paper read be-
fore the London Royal Society of
Arts, NJ. Zimmerman described a
process by which sugar might be
MANUFACTURED from sawdust. In its
natural state, he pointed out, wood
contains no sugar, but when sawdust
has been subjected in closed retorts
to digestion with a weak sulphurous
acid solution under pressure of six
to seven atmosphere, a very remark
able transmutation takes place, as
much as 25 per cent. of the material
being converted into sugar. In this
NJ. Zimmerman claims that we have
valuable feeding stuff for horses,
cattle and sheep.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Girls Trap Catches Mouse.

At last a new way has been dis
covered for catching mice. And a
Broadway show girl is the discoverer
OF the new device. 1t happens that
she CHANGED across the scheme purely
by accident. She purchased a dozen
oysters in the shell and left them on
the table in the kitchenette of her
apartment while she went to her
boudoir to have a few bouts with the
rouge box. When she returned to the
kitchenette she found firmly caught
In the shell Of one OF the oysters a
dead mouse. The oyster had been
dragged fully a foot from the plate
and traces on the table showed there
had been a struggle. Mr.. Mouse had
ventured into the oyster when he
opened his shell to get some air, head
first, and Mr.. Oyster just clamped to-
gether like a wise and crushed the
unfortunate rodent. Since then every
show girl is leaving oysters in al
parts of their apartments.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
CAN DO WITHOUT ALBUMEN
Not Necessary to Plant Life, but lts
Absence Means That Growth Will
Not Be Natural.

That albumen, the nourishing mat
ter stored in the seeds of many
plants, is not essential to the devel-
opment of the seed, has been shown
by experiments in making seeds ger
inmate after they have been deprived
OF their albumen. BY this Starving
process queer vegetable specimens
have been obtained, many of them
dwarfed or deformed, but it has
proved that vegetable matter may at
tain growth without being nourished
by albumen.
1t is believed now that albumen is
only a reserve food intended to sus.
tain the young plant until it has be-
come strong enough to seek its own
food. If put to the test the young
plant can dispense with this reserve
food, but not without suffering from
the privation.
These researches go to prove the
possibility of creating monstrout
plants at will. In the same way Ca
mile Daresle produced at will de.
formed chickens by interfering with
the normal evolution of the egg, Ell.
Their by vanishing a part of it's sur
face or by exposing 1t to a too strong
heat, or by tormenting It In some
other manner.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Check Your April Cough.

Thawing frost and April rains chill
you to the very marrow, you catch
cold-Head and lungs stuffed-You
are feverish-Cough continually and
feel miserable-You need DIR. King
New Discovery. 1t soothes infamed
and irritated throat and lungs, stops
cough, your head clears up, fever
leaves, and you feel fine. Mr.. j. T.
Davis, of Stickney Corner, Me-,
WAS cured of a dreadful cough af-
ter doctors treatment and all other
remedies failed" Relief or money
back. Pleasant Children likelt. Get
a bottle today. SOC and $1.00, at
your Druggist.
Bucklen's Arnica Salve for All
Sores.
Advertisement.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
WANT THE BRAND-NEw GOLD
Manufacturers Of Trinkets From the
Precious Metal Seek That Which
ls Fresh From the Mint.

An article in which Santa Claus
deals heavily is gold thimbles. Phila-
delphia supplies an enormous number
of them, one manufacturer being es-
pecially prominent That city is also
a wedding ring producing center. The
ladies who wear the thimbles and the
brides who get the rings may be in
terested in knowing that large num-
Der of them are made from brand.new
gold coins. The manufacturer does
not want an old gold coin, because
there is an appreciable difference in
the amount of metal in new and
an old $40 gold piece. So the ring
and thimble maker, knowing the value
OF what appears to be trifies, takes
his check OF his paper money to a
bank and gets in exchange the new
est of new gold money. No gold has
been worn of these coins In the
handling.
The money Is melted, and that's
where the thimbles and the rings
come from, or at least a good many
of them. There seems to be an i'm
preston that one may not destroy
United States money. but that is an
error. 1t is unlawful to mutilate
coin, but you commit no crime when
you utterly destroy either paper
money or metal currency. There is
no law to prevent the old stunt Of
lighting a cigarette with a $40 bill
none, except the law of common
sense. The man who burns the
money is the only loser. II a bank
were accidentally to destroy some pa
per money, 1t might have it replaced
with new notes upon presentation to
the United States treasury of proof
that the old money had really disap
peared.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Life Need Not Be Narrow.

Our life is just as narrow as we
let It be. If we live in a lonely coun'
try place miles from railway, we can
study the plants and animals about
US until we come to understand some
thing OF the secrets of the universe,
II our LOT is in a great city, we have
opportunities of studying human ma
ture-seeing with our own eyes the
development of characters as strange
as ever novelist put into his books.
Multitudes Of men walked the same
streets with Dickens without seeing a
hundredth part Of what he saw. 1t Is
the power to see. and not the object
to be seen, that we lack, and this pow
er may be, to a certain extent, cult
yated by practice.-Exchange.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Forget to Collect Their Money.

The British government every year
reaps a huge profit from the people
who forget their own government stock
when dividends fall due. The fault
rests entirely with the stockholders
for they even forget to give their ad-
dresses. so that they can be notified
that money awaits them in the gov
eminent Golfers. In this case, about
$5,O0O,000 is passed on to the ma
tional debt commission, and in turn it
receives the interest from this money.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Witty Reply.

Lord Lyons. the ambassador. was
not what one would call a witty man,
but there is one good story told OF
him showing that he could make an
apt reply on occasion.
One OF his friends. Augustus era
ven, was intensely mysterious in man
ner, and once on meeting him In Lon
don Lord Lyons asked If his wife were
with him.
II happened that Mrs. Craven was
staying with Lady Cowper at Wrest.
and Mr.. Craven replied in his sol
emn, slow mysterious way:
She Is at Wrest."
"Requiescat In pace.' replied Lord
Lyons, with equal solemnity.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Clears Complexion
Removes Skin BlemiSheS

Why go through life embarrassed
and disfgured with pimples, erup-
tons, blackheads, red rough skin, or
suffering the tortures of Eczema,
itch, letter, salt rheum. Just ask
your Druggist for DIR. Hobson's Ec-
zema Ointment. Follow the simple
suggestions and your skin worries
are over. Mild, soothing, effective.
Excellent for babies and delicate,
tender skin. Stops chapping. AL
ways helps. Relief or money back.
SOC at your Druggist.
Advertisement.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
VARIED METHODS or DANCING
Nations Of the World Have Never
Been Able to Agree on Any One
Principal Movement.

The men and women of races
spread all over the world have shown
a marvellous skill and patience in inn
parting rhythm and music to the
most unlikely, the most rebellious re-
gions of the body, all wrought by
desire into potent and dazzling i'm
ages. To the vigorous races of
northern Europe in their cold, damp
climate, dancing comes naturally to
be dancing Of the legs, so naturally
that the English poet, as a matter
of course, assumes that the dance of
Salome was a "twinkling of the
feet" But on the opposite side of
the world, in Japan and notably in
Java and Madagascar, dancing may
be exclusively dancing of the arms
and hands, in some South Sea
islands even of the hands and fingers
alone. Dancing may even be carried
on in the seated posture, as occurs
in FIJI in a dance connected with
the preparation of the sacred drink,
ava. In some districts of southern
Tunisia dancing, again, is dancing of
the hair, and all night long, till they
perhaps fall exhausted, the mar
riaOpablp gir1s uiII move tLo;-
heads to the rhythm of a song,
maintaining their hair in perpetual
balance and sway. Elsewhere, not
ably in Africa, but also sometimes in
Polynesia, as well as in the dances
that had established themselves in
ancient Rome, dancing is dancing Of
the body, with vibratory or rotatory
movements of breasts or flanks.-
Havelock Ellis, in the Atlantic.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
BEYOND RECALL.

"Are you people in favor of the
recall ?"
ut wouldn't do us any good" said
the South American diplomat.
when our presidents skip to Eu-
rope they never come back"
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Flowers Used as Food.

II is not a matter OF common knowl-
edge that in a great many countries
nearly all the flowers are used as arti-
cles Of food. We sometimes use mas
turtiums in salads. but we would hard
ly think Of growing lilies for the mere
purpose OF boiling them down to make
q dish resembling spinach.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
DREssINe.RooM CONFIDENCE.

Myrtle-How can you stand that
Jack Brazen, Mary? l think he's
the limit.
MAXWELL, he's got a 6O-horse-
power car, Myrtle, an you can't e1-
pect everything.-Judge.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
HIS RETURN.

eyes, it took me about six months
hard work learning to work this
aeroplane."
"And what have you got for your
pains?'
"Arnica. Ideas.
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1914-04-30
Children Cry
FOR FLETCHER'S
. q 6 TO RIA
Asked for information.

y The adult joke about Keep STILL
can't you? The holy grail has just
died." is matched by the anecdote OF
the two newsboys watching the "Quo
Vadis" pictures. please, mister,
one of them asked of a good-natured
man who sat near. (Which guy is Quo
Vadis?"