The Hood River glacier. (Hood River, Or.) 1889-1933, 1914-07-23
LOCKLEY DESCRIBES
ASCENT OF HOOD
CBy Fred LOckley in Portland JOurnaD

attempt was made by white men to
scale Mount Hood.
On August 1, 1854, 7. J. Dryer, W.
Lake, Captain Barlow and French
sailor named Travsillot. left Portland
to climb the mountain. They were
ioined by Judge Olney, Major Haller
and an Indian guide from The Dalles
and on August an attempt was made
to reach the summit.
They climbed the southeastern slope
of the mountain, some Of the party
reaching Steel's cliff and there giving
up the attempt. Mr.. Dryer reported
upon his return that the height Of
Mount Hood was Is, 36l feet.
This same summer. 1854, witnessed
the ascent of Mount Jefferson by
party of prospectors consisting Of I.
Looney, John Walker. l.. +. Massey,
John Alpin and William Tullbright.
They made the ascent on July il, 1854,
reaching the base of the pinnacle on
the summit which they were unable
to climb.
The first actual ascent Of Mount
Hood was made on July IL, 1857, by
party from Portland under the leader
ship of Professor l.. J. Powell. Ten
years later Lieutenant Colonel K. ).
Williamson, of the engineering corps OF
the u. S. army, with two assistants,
Lieutenant w. II. Heur and John /.
Best and ten others started from Port
land on August 20, 1867, for the sum
nit of Mount Hood. They reached
timber line on August % and next
morning at 1880 started to climb. In
very interesting account OF this as
cent Colonel Williamson said: 1T took
US 10 hours to reach the summit and
return to our camp. Our cintern bar
ometers read to two-thousandths Of an
inch. We used dry and wet open air
thermometers. Our barometers were
compared and adjusted with those at
Astoria, Vancouver and The Dalles.
Our barometer on the summit reduced
to 80 degrees F., was 1884 inches with
a temperature of IL degrees Z minutes
and a wet bulb of 81 degrees minutes.
After he proper computations we
found the following to be the altitude
Astoria So, Vancouver 79, camp on
slope of mountain $500. summit OF
Mount Hood 527, making a total OF
II, ,225 feet.
Mount Hood was named on October
20, 1892, by Broughton. He named il
fol- Lord Hood, of England. Among
the Indians Hood had various names
Some called it Wiyeast; though it was
usually referred to as Pat-to.a,
name given to any high snow peak.
twenty years ago this summer thu
Mazamas were organized on the sum
nit of Mount Hood. 1t was on July l9
1894. on the crest of the mountain, tina
the charter members singed the roll
No one may become a member of Ore
CONS famous mountain climbing clul
without climbing to the summit of
snow capped mountain, on the sides o
which there is at least one living gla
cier and the mountain must be such
one as cannot be ascended except b.
climbing. This rule bars out Noun
Shasta as it is claimed that hors
was once ridden to the summit o
Shasta.
For the purpose of this article ] ar
going to divide all mankind into tw
classes those who have climbed Noun
Hood and those who have not. Unit
the Fourth of July | belonged to tn
latter class but now have stepped u
and stepped up is the word-into tn
first class, and am listed with thos
who have climbed Mount Hood.
On July our party, consisting G
MIR. and Mrs. Joseph H. Albert, Di
and Mrs. J. C. Griffith and Paul Wa
lace, of Salem, and MIR. and Mrs. OFT
Krausse, Miss Helen Krausse, Mis-
Grace Tucker, Frank Waganknecht an
MIR. and Mrs. Fred Lockley, of Port
land, met at Cloud Cap Inn.
At Hood River you are met by aut
and taken over excellent country road
/ for rs miles through the beautifl
Hood River valley. The road for tn
first IL or Is miles passes through
country of gently rolling hills who's
slopes are covered with well cared fC
orchards. As the road climbs steadil
upward you enter the timber and on a
sides beautiful and picturesque bits
scenery are to be seen. At the end {
the Is mile auto ride you take tn
stage for the final two miles to Clou
/ Cap Inn. From here on it is stead
climb and when you reach the Inn yo
are more than mile above Portlan
the exact altitude being 1897 feet. Tn
/ view of the Cloud Cap Inn is wort
coming across the continent to see
Mount Hoods massive and rugged bul
is upreared close at hand and domil
ates the whole scene. To the mort
and west one sees St. Helens, Rainit
and Mount Adams. At noontime, SUI
J set, by moonlight the view is inspirln
7 and unsurpassed. ,
Il am not going to try to describe Il
sunsets for they are indescribable. N
one who has not seen the rolling clouC
in the valley below touched with tt
soft grays and faint pinks of the la!
level rays of the sun or watched thel
imperceptibIy change to orange ar
lavender with countless shades b.
II tween, can have any conception of tt
Il beauty of sunset from the base
Mount Hood. When the f1amelike dis
| has finally disappeared from view II
| mountains take on tender, radiaI
Il "Alpengluh," faint and illusive ros
II glow as though they were illuminate
Il from within. When you leave the c.
II vern-like fireplace to go to bed Il
III mountains are sIIuOuSbtSu BHOSehr
against the purple blue sky.
II After an early breakfast on July
II we started for the crest of Moul
II Hood. The women folk we're dress'
II in bloomers and all of US we're armt
II with steel shod alpenstocks and q
II were shod in heavy shoes whose sol
II we're we'll hobnailed. George II. Mi
II Ter, the guide. gave the signal and '
IL were off. Four miles away as Il
II crow flies, was the summit of Mou
II Hood, but none of us were crows,
II we couldn't fly, and as we looked at 4
III summit, more than mile straight u
it began to seem like quite an unde
taking to lift oneself up more than
mile. If the elevator in the Ye,
: building should stop running it wou
seem quite task to walk up to t
fifteenth floor and person would
examined as'to his sanity if he shou
walk to the topmost story SO times
succession, yet that would be me
child's play compared to cilmbi
- Mount Hood.
= Soon we were on Cooper's spur a
with every brief halt we began to $
more of Oregon and Washington.
thought the view was far reaching a
T. k,,k ,