The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-22
Skirts for the Tailored Suit or Worn with Separate Blouse.
By JANE BARTON.

! SHALL try to tell you in detail how to
 make various skirts that can be adapted
 to the tailored suit or for wearing with separate blouses or which may be used to
 combine with the one piece frock for util- ity wear l discuss the skirts first as many women can tackle this part of the suit who are not equal to the greater ntricacies of the coat
 The modern drapery Is less achieved in the body of the skirt than by added sections; thus, there are a larger proportion of straight underskirts than for several seasons past With this choice possible there is no reason why a woman should wear a skirt unsuited to her figure. If she needs length of line she can get it and still be stylish, de spite rumors of bustlesand reeds
 The home dressmaker should choose a pat tern not alone for it's style but also because of ease in making. Thus, a model that is not more than a three piece skirt Is wise. The two piece pattern is extremely popular and there are many one piece skirts worn. espe- cially when joined to a yoke with the stylish new slashes under which spring shaped tunics or simulated drapery appear
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 Apoid Exaggerated Pattern.
 If you wish to make a skirt that will an- swer admirably, with minor alterations, for the tailored suit, or for a one piece frock of serge, crepe silk, or some of the heavier cot ton materials, select pattern along semi tailored lines one that is not exaggerated and yet is distinctly this spring " in style
 One such model has straight two piece underskirt measuring about yard and half around the bottom. If the hips are large this width must be increased, or an ugly spanning line results. By the way do not fn I,- Il. | waist measure, when hips are large in pro portion to the rest of the body.
 Study the pattern carefully before apply ing to the material, and make any altera- tions in the tissue paper before cutting into the goods. Skirts even for the street are not so short as. formerly so allow in length enough for a four or five inch hem and still have the skirt an inch and half from the ground. Silk dresses just clear the ground
 Above this straight skirt, and joined with 1t in moderately high waist band, Is a shaped tundc that is cut In a sharp point in the middle front and another point in the middle back. Cut the tunlc in front so the point comes about to the knees or an inch and half below; the back forms the popular dropped line and the point comes at least to the calf of the leg or even to the ankle.
 This tuntc is cut without seams and opens at the left front, where 1t faStens over the back section by five large buttons and but tonholes set in ten inch space. Slope out this line of the tunic from the top of the belt, then cut back the bottom of the slope about two and a half inches toward the center, and start the point from this place The back point of the tumc begins to slope away from beneath this Tapped. slashed section On the opposite side the tunic is cut so the back joins the front like an inverted V.
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 Finishing Top and Bottom.
 The placket of the skirt opens at the left front under the tunic opening. The tops fit smoothly to an under belt. the upper edges being turned under and stitched to the upper edge of the belt about hree-eighths of an inch from the fold. The belt is cut wide enough to hook in front and allow for the placket. opening. Sew hangers on the inside of the belt at each side
 The bottom of the skirt is turned up after the skirt is fitted and hung from the belt. For cloth skirt do not fold in the upper edge of the hem, but haste it fiat and cover the raw edge with silk binding ribbon. either stitched through or hemmed by hand The one edge of the binding is stitched over the raw edge of the skirt before basting tight For silk, crepe. or cotton materials turn a narrow edge and hem by hand, making the