davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
HORSEHAIR PICOT BRAID.

Horsehsir picoi braid is being used
again. II resembles lace OF tstting de-
signs Some very good effects are OBJ
tained when this braid is combined with
ulle. Picot toQues may already be seen
IN the Riviera and AT Sans Souci.
Even the shawl 50 effectively worn b.
Calvf and Cavaleri in their portrayal OF
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
eolsE1 BANS THE BUsTLE.

p poiret is 10 be comQhmented upon
70 'set that 10 refused 10 launch bustles
rss last week opening. Can you I'M
60. modern American woman. win
4 asr duties snd aspirations and ne
- hamperirg herself with an absurd
rrs. The distinguishing feature ~ his
-.-rt vas the lavish exhibition o. Du-
.srhsrme slk. which will be much
s1 during the coming season here Ana.
ff-dsrig - relate IL will prove eco
s-icsl for Americans. as il is al Amer
1- fabric His wraps ars ample. CON
rtrs much material. and number Of
tsr s's mace - Solfne
Bl n. vsy. VI Poiret cherishes
rQl. theory about the new STYLES over
'.,h mere is 60 much controversy He
'si.nds that no dress is I'm Itself inn
-s1.st II only appears so when the
ware Is immooest Being o. this opin-
r is natural that he should try 70
i1k fhs hsrem skirts With z few models
sh.m stu 70 be shown this season. NJ
PART announces that h. has not dc-
rs-st % their general adoption. Amer
81 women however. have never shown
t'f. for skirts 81 this description.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

rT,HE STYLES in last week s Paris open-
-rs we're SO varied and the models
70 charming that Al p woman VIII
.,,. - NJ 70 appear well dressed during
..------1r season g To select the things
er,ui, her own individuality or course.
"a. c1rolin. skirt is shown. The harem
d. rc. nut women 81 better taste 81
,,u,in Tor simplicity. and viii undouht-
a., rsoos. m, simpler things. While
.-r.-ou, models Of startling cha rscter
,,,.,r in the openings in Paris. the
,.,s,rer Of 2 great many of the designs
T, 70 become more simple. simplicity "i
II. ,rs cut. without excessive ornamen-
.,,e,-,h. gown Sc of merely by some
a. rr,s,r details what the smart
,eust pfh taste vii choose.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
PREMET'S SKIRTS WIDER AND
SHORT.

\ noticeable fact AZ the Premet opening
Was that the skirts are wider and very
short And actually. some Of them. IN
tended for street wear are shorter on
IN. sides than in the front and back
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

Davis. g. VI Rumhold George NJ. Clyde.
j. c. Marks. j. p. Nieman. Frank f..
Hsdley. r. T. Mittowor. Rebecca Fried
lander Alfred Keedwel and Josephine
Libby First act. Mrs. Helen Wells; sec
oud act. Mrs. Herman Schultz third act
Mrs g. VI RumhOd. and fourth act. Mrs.
Frank T.. Hadley. Mrs. Helen Wells was
the chairman OF discussion and Mrs Ma
thanel Oberndorfer was the chairman Of
ctftdV
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

Eclectic clubs entertainment on
Wednesday a the Waldorf was celc-
brated by a -. Valentines programme
arranged by Miss Eva Smith. Mrs. Albert
H. Chaffees tableau talk WAS illustrated
with pictures Of the women OF the French
court Some OF those taking part in the
programme were: Miss Frances Ruffner
Angelic Foret. Vernon Archibald Mrs.
j. II Irvine and Miss Barbara Derby
The guests Of honor were Mrs John
fartuess secretary bf the Lyceum club,
of London England and Mrs. James
Henry Parker president Of the New York
Chapter Daughters Of the Confederacy,
and Mrs Dayton Price. Eclectic viii give
a dance and card party on Tuesday even-
ing. February H. for the benefit Of It's
philauthroplc fund Of which Mrs. Frank
T.. Hadley IS chairman. Mrs. George
Bonhotal has charge of social hour
which follows each luncheon given nv
Eclectic. There are card tables for those
who enjoy a game after luncheon ann
the prizes are popular novels.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

The Ladies' Christian Union devotional
meetings Will be held every WcGnesds"
I'm the chapel Of the COLLEGIATE Church,
Fifth avenue and isth street. AZ II o'clock.
continuing from November 10 Ma.
Ladies are cordially invited
The following will take part:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

The Society Of the Daughters Of the
Revolution State OF New York. Mrs. ~
erett Menzies Raynor regent by invita-
ton OF their chaplain. tie Rev. Dr. Rob
ert Bruce Clark. will commemorate the ls2d
anniversary OF the birth of Geor-e Wash
ington on February p, Al II n. m. AT the
Church of the Puritans lSOth street and
Fifth avenue Captain Mace and Com
pany y Of the eth Regiment wall act as
escort
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

pearance. The centre is made mp of small
chartreuse green checks and the border Is
in yellow Another shawl Of Nodior de
sim shows = border Of deep. warm yell
low. another new shade. which the ere
ator. has christened burnt banana"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

fourth vice-president general; Mrs. George
Jenkins, Massachusetts,. NTH vice-presl-
dent general: Miss Grace osborne, re-
corliug secretary: Mrs. George r. Hale.
Massachusetts, corresponding secretary :
Mrs. Herbert f. Davidson, New YORK
treasurer. Mrs Victor Fredrickson, New
York. registrar: Mrs. John J. Fields, New
York. historian. with Mines. Leonard H.
Davis. NJ NJ Smith. Henry Alloway ana
Frank Cronise. all of New York, mem
beers of the board of directors.
After the election those present re-
solved themselves into a memorial meet
ing. different members expressing their
grief for the loss OF the president gen
eral and founder. Mrs. Frank Cro"eH'
who passed away last month.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

Carmen is 10 he adopted in trimming the
gowns OF the coming season. Rodier is
the inventor Of IL. As an experiment. ne
used for tunic a large square shaw Of
woven fabric and bordered by designed
band four or five inches wide. The idea
was promptly seized upon by represent
stiye houses like Cheruit and Callot. 40 II
seems likely that they will he seen durin2
the coming sea son.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
NEW SHAWL FABRICS.

The cohne. which is so new. appears
also in shswls one of them carries out
an effect In the border or white goline
scalloped i'm the inner edge and embroid-
cred with small red roses. Ralline is
another texture used m the manufacture
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

The Dixi. club will give a heneht CON
cert dance and card party ~ the Bit
more. Madison and Vanderbilt avenue and
East sd street. Friday evening. February
o. At $50 o'clock, for the poor whites OF
North Carolina and Georgia. Tickets may
he procured from the chairman Of enter
talnment. Mrs. Clifford Williams. No. :
West 10th street Mary Of the southern
colony OF this city are interested. The
patronesses are as follows: Mrs James
n. Tucker Mrs. Frank Carpenter. Mrs
Frank VI. I.esman. Mrs. John Lansdale
Mrs Henry Pearson Mrs. John A. Harris
Mrs James A. Dinulddie. Mrs. Simon
Baruch. Mrs Robin 4. Lau. Mrs +. Y.
Robinson and Mrs Eingland Fitzpatrick.
Tie New York County Woman Suffrage
Association is holding q series of meetings
at No. II West Sith street on Thursday
evenings NJ O'Clock under the auspices OF
the affiliated leagues Thursday evening.
February 10. the meeting will be in charge
or the Joan OF Arc League. Miss Anrie ;.
Peck. president. viii occupy the chair.
The subject will be civil Service Re
form" Addresses will be made by Robert
". Belcher. secretary OF the Civil Service
Reform Association. ard other prominent
men and women speakers. Debate viii
follow. All are welcome 70 these meetings.
The Society for Political study. Mr..
Austin NJ Palmer. president. held its reg
ular meeting on Tuesday ~ the Hotel
Astor. New members received into the
club on that day were Mrs. w. n.
Gahss president OF the Woman's club
~ Chicago. Mrs. g. y. Mcconnell AMI
Mrs Sarah A. Palmer
4 paper on Municipal Current Events"
was Sead by Mrs. William g Demarest.
4 parliamentary drill on a general re-
view" was conducted nv Or Frances
Mcneil The paper OF the day. New
York CITY Administration Under the
Charter" was presented by Mrs. Ben
iamin :. Crocker. Those taking part IN
the discussion were Mrs Frank kitton'
Mrs. Boynton. Mrs. Demarest. Mrs Men
ken. Mrs Croker. Mrs Kahn. Mrs.
Cronise and Mrs. Slack.
Preparations are under way for the go
cietys twenty-eighth annual luncheon
which will take place on February q.
Eighteen tables have already been en-
gaced.
The next meeting will be held on Febru-
AIRY a.
Unique and unusual features VIII be IN
troduced. and an enjoyable evening is
promised.
The Professional Womans league Is
looking forward 10 an interesting after
noon on the occs sion OF Mrs. Sol Smith
dramatic DAY Monday. February 10. The
following programme will he presented;
\ sketch by Harry Leighton. entitled
DADDY" Frederick Paulding. In the foi-
owing: The letter scene from The Riv-
yals.' by Sheridan Conservative, by
Stetson. The Answer" by kiplng. and
The Barney stone" by Lever: Miss Har-
-e Fumade In Bird Melodies Miss
Minnie l.. Pancosst. popular songs. and
Miss Fanny Spencer. piano solos.
st tho Theatre club. Mrs. }. Christie
uher Marks president. a discussion Was
held on The Land Of Promise on Tues
dan. February 49, at the Hotel Astor. BY
the following members. Mines. Charles
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
CFI FBRATIONS IN CLUBS CONTINUED

residence OF Mrs Randolph n Woodruff.
80. I2o Riverside Drive In order that
the members may become better sc-
Quanted it will take the form Of con
yersazione.' with no programme
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

Charter Chapter. Daughters Of the
Union. Mrs. William Il. Stewart. regent
will hold a social meeting on Monday
February IL. from to . O'Clock, AT the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

The next meeting Of the knickerbocNer
Chapter. -. \. r.. Of which Mrs. Simon
Baruch is regent. will be held on Friday,
February ~. at 30 o'clock AT the Wal
dorf- Astoria. The first part OF the session
will be devoted TO business, and at $50
O'Clock there will be held the usual social
meeting The topic of the afternoon VIII
be Meadow Garden" the historic
Georgia nome Of George Walton. one or
the signers of the Declaration Of indie
pendence. oXpatiated on by his great
niece Miss Josephine Walton. The guest
of honor will be Mrs. Elizabeth II. Tur-
nor. a daughter OF Francis Scott Key.
There will also he a musical programme
in charge Of Miss Edyth May Clover,
chairman OF music.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

ON "Wednesday the national society oi
the Daughters Of the Union held It's an
nusl meeting and election of ofncers.
This society was founded two wears ago
by Mrs Frank Croweli. After the annual
reports were given an election was held
with the following results. Mrs. Charles
H. Masury. of Massachusetts,. president
general. Mrs. Joseph ;. Wood. Mount
Vernon first vice-president general Mrs
Charles +. Tcrhune. New York seconn
vicc-prcsidcnt general. Mrs William 4
Stewart. New York. third vice-president
general. pr. Frances Mcneil New York,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

The twenty-frst birthday Of the Wom-
ans Professional League will be celebrat-
ed I'm its clubrooms on February p. at
p. M. Many we'll known persons OF
the theatrical world will be present. and
Mrs \. NJ. Palmer will he the guest Of
honor Mrs Palmer was the founder and
first presid snt OF the league
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

The irst Of the Assembly Dances given
by the National California club was
held at the Plaza. and it not only brought
together tho club members. but many
other Californians as well. The members
OF the floor committee were Professor
Charles r. Houghton. Dr. Alfred \. Fish
er. Louis e. White j. Frye Nounnan. jr,
and William Wolf. The committee in
charge consisted Of Mrs. G. Upton Hal
lett. chairman. Mrs. Louis G. White. Mrs
Charles f. Houshton. Mrs. Joseph f.
Nounnan. Mrs. Robert y. Maffitt. Miss
Edyth J. Turner. Mrs. William X. stew
art and Mrs Thomas j. Vivian.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15
ORIENTAL SHAWLS.

one Of the shawls shown at recent
opening is extremely Oriental In It's ap-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

The regular monthly meeting Of the Ma
tionsl california club Will - held next
TUESDAY al the Naldorf-Astoria. IL VIII
be Patriotic Day. with Mrs. Robert Dewey
Bristol. chairman. The patriotic music
will bc under the leadership Of Miss kath-
rim Hike Among the guests OF honor
will be presidents and regents OF patrl-
Otto societies. Mrs. Marion Hin. Mrs. Eliz-
abeth H. Turner. the granddaughter OF
Francis Scott Key and Thomas }. Nivi-
an. Members OF the society are request
ed Ia be- present promptly az > o'clock for
the business meeting.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-02-15

81 the Theatre club Mrs. ). Christie
nh.r Marks president. a discussion Was
held on The Land OF Promise on Tues
day. February 10, AT the Hotel Astor' BY
the following members Mines. Charles
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-04

needlessly complicated organization. For
example, It was found that separate
bureaus were maintained to certify for
appointment in the competitive and labor
class, separate bureaus for the certiflca-
ton OF payrolls and separate application
bureaus in the same classes. This de-
centralized organization created the
need of high priced supervising officers
Accordingly the commission decided to
abolish the labor bureau as a separate
unit OF organization and to consolidate
in separate bureaus all the certifications
Of eligible lists, all the certifcations of
payrolls and the receipt Of all appllca-
lions.
In his report to the Mayor DR.. Mosko-
witz says:
THE present organization Is very
much simplifed and responsibility Is
now centralized, resulting not only In
the saving OF money by dropping need
less high priced clerks but in increased
efficiency"
Under the old organization the cost
Of administering the labor bureau was
$4,000. Under the new organization
the following positions became unneces-
sary: Labor clerk, $500; assistant
labor clerk, 2,400: clerk, $1,000. Total,
81. 900.
The foregoing figures cited in the re-
port demonstrate the economy effected
by this change. This total saving will
be effected II the proposed change in
the budget is sanctioned by the Board
of Estimate and Apportionment.
As a result of an investigation OF the
Police Department conducted last year
by the Curran Aldermanic committee
the Civil Service Commission is now
thoroughly scrutinizing the records Of
applicants for the department. Accord
ing 10 the report like investigation
should also be made in the case Of APP
plcants for inspectoral services and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-04
CITY EMPLOYEES TO BENEFIT BY NEW
. METHODS OF CIVIL SERVICE SYSTEM
Present Organization, In
stituted by DR.. Mosko-
WITT. Is Very Much
Simplified and Respon-
sibility Centralized -
Mayor Cratifed

New York city is one Of the greatest
employers Of labor. both skilled and un-
skilled. In the country. The annual re-
port for the year ended December 81.
1918. shows that there were 1905
employees in the labor class. Almost
every occupation is represented from
the ordinary laborer to the most skilled
pattern maker or cabinet maker. The
selection of the city's help in the labor
class is made through the most care
full and practical tests Of the actual abil-
lily OF the candidate to do the work
Of the job to which he seeks appoint
ment. A person, for example. who de-
sires to become a plumber Is tested on
his actual ability to do various kinds
Of work expected of a plumber in the
Pratt Institute or the New York Trade
School A payer or a rammer who
helps to construct the highways of the
city OF New York Is made to demon
strate his ability to hold down the
Job. incidentally the city saves con-
siderable money out of these tests by
setting the candidates to work in the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-04

other high grade positions in the de-
partment. because such employees are
frequently away from the office and are
unrestrained by direct supervision.
THE temptations for corruption un-
der these circumstances" DIR. Mosko-
witt states, "are often too strong for n
man of weak character TO withstand.
The staff of this bureau has often been
inadequate to handle the large number
of character Investigations which must
be made. II has been increased to
fourteen and 1t. will now be possible to
make an investigation not alone OF fire
and police applicants but OF all persons
who are to be certified to departments
for appointment to many other po-
sitions in the competitive class. with
an increased force we would he able
to investigate all positions in the COM
petitlve class, and this Is highly desir-
able"
A few Of the more important ac-
complishments In the examination dlvi-
sion from January | up to the present
time are cited below:
The commission Is developing "A poll
! Icy OF seeking the cooperation OF the
| high class experts, naturally drawn to
the metropolis, in the handling of vari-
Gus examinations connected with tech
! meal positions for the city service. The
! following important conferences with
such experts have been held A con-
ference with the experts on recreation
and the Park Commissioners: Of prison
experts and Commissioner Davis: of
experts in philanthropy and Commits
! sioner Kingsbury, and of representa-
| tives of the Academy of Medicine to
consider the examinations for the
health service and standards for the
physical examinations which will be
given by the Civil Service Commission
to applicants for city positions
The Bureau Of Physical Examination
not only passes and rejects candidates
4 but in examinations for promotion,
1 when diseases or other physical condl-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-04

the rules was established which has
been approved by the Mayor and the
State Civil Service Commission. 1t pro-
vides for a board of review to consist
of a Civil Service Commissioner, a civil
service examiner and a representative
OF the department under review.
In this connection DIR. MoskowitZ
says:
1T is hoped that a uniform efficiency
record system can he established which
VIII result in more careful and a more
scientific record and estimate OF the
work done by city employees. With a
fundamental Reconsideration OF the du-
ties and an analysis of the factors ~
work involved I'm the various positions
II will be possible To devise system
of recording the efficiency of employees
which Will be kept upon a fact basis
rather than upon present impression
istic records Of the various promotion
boards. \ Reconsideration of the titles
based upon actual duties will facill-
tate the establishment OF such an eff
cheney record system and will consti-
tute sound criterion for promotions.
Promotions in the service should he
based upon fair estimate of the en-
ployee's efficiency and seniority. Where
there are no actual changes in the du-
ties promotions should be automatic IN
form of advancement in salary where
duties change, promotion eXaminat tons
should be given. II IL evident that such
fundamental Reconsideration of duties
is one or the most important requi-
sites for an efficient administration of
the civil service law. It's necessity is
evident In every department of the com
] IN lSSlOn'S work and SIcCpss In establi.h
Ing such a classification of duties will
mark an epoch in the administration
of the civil service law in the city OF
New York"
The commission announces that II has
changed the rules by providing that first
grade clerks he allowed to take promo
ton examinations to the next higher
grade after one year Of service. and. that
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-04
corporation yards doing the paving for
the city.

uOinb tno
the city.
The. largest class OF employees under
the Jurisdiction OF the Civil Service
Commission Is OF course the clerical
force. The clerical service, however,
comprises not only routine clerical posi-
tons but such professional places as
accountants, statisticians, sc. Outside Of
the clerical service the opportunities
that the civil service OF the city holds
out are most comprehensive. The city,
for example. binds books and employs
professionally trained bookbinders. 1t
has need for photographers. telegraph
operators, veterinarians, all kinds of en-
cheering positions. lawyers, pilots, cap
tains and their subordinates on the
ferryboats, physicians and specialists in
the medical service, experts on finger
prints. gardeners. gymnasium instruc-
tors, chauffeurs, psychologists, &c.
The hospital service of the city and
the laboratories connected with Bellevue
and Allied Hospitals offer the greatest
opportunity for specialists who desire to
make reputation. These places are all
subject to competitive examination, but
this does not mean that the Civil Ser
vice Commission conducts a scholastic
test which can be passed by mere cram
ming. Recently, for example. the com
mission held an examination for photog-
rapher. Candidates were not allowed
to get on an eligible list merely be-
cause they could write descriptions OF
different kinds of cameras or describe
how picture should be developed. They
were actually required TO make photo
graphs and develop them. This prac-
teal test was held in Bryant Park, and
the results play large part in the final
ratings Of the candidate. An examina-
ton for gardener, which is to be held
very shortly, will involve similar
practical test,
Investigation made by the commission
disclosed considerable duplication in the
work Of the various bureaus Us well al