The Washington herald., 1914-05-24

gown as well as to the back of the neck.
by. a band of vivid green velvet ribbon,
which crosses the base of the satin run,
comes over the shoulders in front and
| about the arms to loose itself again in
the back. under the top Of the panel
| train.
Mrs. Preston Gibson. whose mode Of
dress is always the highest expression
of good form as well as the "denier
cri'' in line and color. is wearing one OF
the smartest of taffeta evening gowns
in pink. Like many of the new models
this gown is totally untrimmed, gaining
its distinction entirely from the master
ly handling of the beautiful material,
and the altogether new line. The skirt
escapes the ground and appears to be
without any fullness, while the overdress
Is a compromise between the long gather
ed tunic and the poionaise. The bodice
is close fitting with slight suggestion Of
the curved line under the arms, and a
very graceful decolletage finished in self
colored tulle, the latter also forming
the top of the short sleeve.
A taffeta visiting gown Of this same
young matron now winning admiring
comment in the spring display at Atlantic
City, is a new shade of dark blue wish
| a much-pleated skirt and panier dropery.
The skirt also shows the new line at
the hem which raises the pleated back
an inch or more higher than the front
and sides. This innovation Is to give the
requisite freedom for walking or dancing
formerly secured by the now despised
split skirt. 1t also shows to advantage
the new dress which calls for colored
heels and frequently a combination Of
| two colors or materials in the body
of the shoe. With her blue gown Mrs
| Gibson wears a high-cut slipper with
patent leather vamp and tongue. while
buckle Of cut steel with a suede center,
\ the high heels. There Is also an oval
buckle of cut steel with a suade center,
giving further style to the very modish
costume. The hat topping this is usually
a round peanut colored straw, with droop-
ing brim trimmed loosely across the
crown with crimson roses.
| This particular hat Is a real sign post
| in fashion, as it has all the advantages
| of the plateau or Vatican shapes. in the
way of shading the brow, yet is distinct
| ly suitable to semi-tailored gowns and
not too youthful for a matron.
A very smart street gown in combi-
nation of satin and gaberdine, the latter
the aristocratic sister of old-time serge
| and a new weave this seasin, Is worn
| by the youthful, Countess Gizycka- This
| Is dark-blue with the skirt entirely Of
accordion pleats. Tae latter, however.
do not flare in the old-time implicated
| fashion, thus retaining the narrow line
| at the ankle. The skirt is faced for ten
inches or SO with satin. The overdress
and bodice of garberdine follow the loose.
| broad-shouldered curveless line of q CEN
| tury-old chasuble brought up to the min
| ute by long, close satin sleeves. The
| latter emerge from the loose shoulders
of the outer garment, but are not at
tached thereto. The Countess Gizycka,
| who rarely departs from a medium sized
hat, wears with this her favorite shape
with its low crown and rolled brim of
| split straw. The hat trimming being a
wreath Of gardenias.
Mrs. James Hamilton Lewis, wife of the
Senator from Illinois. is making an envi-
able reputation for smart dressing. par
ticularly as regards her well-selected
demi-toilets.
At the midday breakfast at Friendship
last Sunday, where nearly 200 guests
were entertained, Mrs. Lewis wore a
gown of the very latest fashion, and at
the same time the best Of taste. A COM
bination, unfortunately, not as common
as it ought to be for American women
who buy their gowns In Paris and wear
This ideal summer costume was in the
reminiscent model of 1880, with founced
skirt from belt to hem. The modern note
was the new parchment color, and the
fact that each ruffle was of the new
Quaker lace dyed to match the founda-
ton of parchment taffeta. The bodice on
severely plain lines to match the skirt,
with V-back and front. was of the taffeta,
but here was introduced a silver lace
as well. A further distinction was the
broad black velvet girdle that not only
wrapped the waist In a deep soft band
but carried the line almost to the knee
on the left side. where II was fastened
to the skirt by one pointed end.
Mrs Lewis topped this with a picture
hat of black tulle and velvet. a costume
hat that found itself in harmony with the
gown, also with the dainty French shoes
of black patent leather. trimmed in
silver buckles. with heels and backs of
parchment-colored suede.
Mrs. Thomas g. Patten, of New
York and Warrington, dresses with AL