davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04

There would be little news in the state
ment that the influence Of the East still
predominated were II not for the fact that
the sphere of inspiration is changing
For the last six months, or longer, al
most every novel feature has been hailed
as coming from Persia, not necessarily
the Persia Of to-day, but rather the Per
STA OF the past as revealed In old manu-
scripts and paintings. Just as this source
of inspiration seemed TO be drying UP
new one was opened TO the alert, ever
watchful eyes of the costume designers
and this new source lies In China.
Attention was first attracted TO China
as a fountain head for ornamentation or
various kinds by the English tourists
who visited India for the Durbar On their
return TO England a demand sprang up
for beads, buttons and other curious
ornaments similar to the Chinese ones
which the visitors had brought back with
them. The demand was quickly recog-
nized by the manufacturers, who saw an
opportunity OF continuing the vogue for
Eastern novelties by offering articles OF
an unmistakable Oriental origin, yet suf-
ficiently different to interest the women
who are always on the lookout for some
thing new
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
FOR TOILET TABLE

every two or four weeks: do not COMP u
ont while wet. as the use OF a comb on
damp hair is apt to sour il. Use an ola
silk handkerchief TO smooth the mar
with; this tends to keep 1t glossy ana
smooth. A little pure imported bay rum
is good for light hair. Rub small guam
tity into the scalp twice a week during
warm weather: it will keep the scalp
clean and improve the hair.
A wash Of German camomile is good
for very blond hair. Infuse the flowers IN
hot water. strain and let II cool. then
rinse the hair in this 1t tends TO Keep
the blond tone Of the hair brilliant. The
cultivation Of the hair is like the cultiva-
ton Of a beautiful and rare rose plant: II
must be cared for nourished and tended
and the result will indeed be worth our
labor. The woman who takes an interest
in her personal appearance will always be
able TO find those few minutes day that
are necessary for the cultivation OF her
browning glory"
One OF the best general tones on my
long list Of hair growers and hair tonics
is the following. which is easily put up
Picnic acid, two grams; tincture OF RED
cinchona, thirty grams; tincture OF can
tharides. two grams; cologne, 10 grams
sweet almond oil. sixty grams. Apply to
the roots Of the hair with small piece
OF absorbent cotton.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
sRAsslEREs MANY AND VARIOUS

Very often these fesh-colored brassieres
ar, worn next to the skin, and when thus
adjusted the silk tricot has proved 10 be
a very satisfactory material, clinging 10
the flesh and yet supporting 1t. A cora
outlining the lower edge of these bras
stores makes them easy to ADJUST
Many OF the most popular brassieres
serve as corset covers and supporters, and
for this reason are very decorative lace
being combined with China silk or patlste
and also with embroidery OF the Hamburg
and Madeira type. Those with tiny sleeve
CAPS are very practical to wear under the
transparent blouses, because a sleeve pro-
tector can then be adjusted without any
one being the wiser. Premet has brought
a certain amount of fulness into the front
of his brassiere corset covers 10 ald IN
giving the loose baggy effect to the front
of the blouse. Made OF batste, through
which vide ribbon is threaded and COM
pleted with lace. they are lovely, fragile
creations.
To wear with black evening gowns the
French designers, who are never at a
loss for an idea. have evolved the black
and finished with pink silk ribbon Shout
der straps. 1t is doubtful. however, if II
will meet with any more success than the
black corset The net brassieres. often
very prettily embroidered, are other nov
elites. Like the tricot garments, they are
worn either under the corset or as pro-
lection 10 II.
Comparatively few OF the new brassieres
are boned. and these have bones only
under the arm and in the back where the
woman who has not been successful in
banishing all her flesh may have difhcuity
in restraining it. The heavily boned bras
sieres give the figure certain rightly
and stiffness that is not in harmony with
the present ideal conception OF a woman
figure
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04

1t is really the simplest process in the
world TO keep ivy alive in the house in
winter. and Il is classed among the A. b,
C's of plant culture. says THE Philadel-
phia Public Ledger The secret Is 10
keep the roots exposed. and for this rea-
son they should be kept In clear glass
and consequently placed where the sun
light can fall upon them.
Clippings may be made ranging from
a half to three-quarters of yard IN
length. These should be placed In clear
cool water, which should be changed
twice a week. The leaves should be
sponged, and thus kept in a beautiful
bright, glossy condition.
One of the prettiest ideas for arranging
the ivy is in a small glass basket They
are plentiful in the shops and are reason
ably priced. The ivy may be easily
trained to trail around the handle OF the
basket
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
Expression to
the Match Hat

Wearing the hat slightly TO one SIDE
is very becoming TO some faces those
with A dash of fun and coquetry IN their
expression" remarked an observing "oh-
an. "Gainsborough's famous Duchess OF
Devonshire is an instance. But the pres
ent fashion of wearing the hat 30 one
sided that part Of the narrow orim points
10 the zenith, while its opposite side rests
upon the shoulder. is likely 10 be gro
tesque rather than picturesque, especially
when the wearer has an air Of solemn
gloom as her natural expression-many OF
us have. A clever woman once wrote;
Never cry in rose colored hat The
greater includes the less. Never look
gium in one-sided hat Though IL is a
fas-,lon of the hour 10 wear them so. no
OIL. need do IL. The middle aged Eng
lishS man usually wears look OF anx-
ious ,. verify that sometimes amounts TO
scowlins. II means short sight or a fear
Of looki<i too amiable, that is all; but to
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
BEAD NECKLACES.

The first objects TO catch the eye OF
the capricious public we're the beaded
necklaces. In China these necklaces are
used as prayer beads. They generally
consist Of nine dozen OF the real amber
beads, with two large jade beads at either
end. weighted with a long silk tassel.
The real antique amber is very rare. but
there are clever limitations, which give
the same curious clouded effect. II
doesn't require much imagination TO
realize that necklaces of this type are
sure TO appeal to women who have been
taught to appreciate the beauty Of East
ern art. Amber and jade were then COM
bined in various ways 10 serve as neck
laces, charms. pendants, buckles. buttons
and other dress accessories. The manu-
facturers aimed first TO reproduce a
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
SEPARATE GARMENTS IN FAVOR

The separate garments are once aeani
in favor. For the last four or nNe !eai
the one cry has been for comolhatIons'
and the more garments that couio oe
Joined together at the waistline the
more successful the combination. WIN
an increased perfection in the nj OF the
various garments, 1t has been possible 10
wear the separate pieces more sausiactor-
ilv than the combinations. and there are
therefore, generally FIVE separate lingerie
garments in the toilet of the fashion-
ably dressed woman. While each woman
ia a law unto herself in the choice OF
these garments. it may be added that the
1--WE usually consist OF an unoerNeS',
drawers a brassiere, cache-corset anu
q petticoat or Knockers.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
SHIRT BoSOMS.

The shirt bosoms which were introduced
in chiffon on the chiffon and crepe de chine
blouses this last winter are evidently TO
continue as the distinguishing feature of
the tailored waists for early spring.
There is one difference. however; they are
now developed in a contrasting material.
For instance. on a model in lightweight
linen the shirt bosom is Of pleated hand
kerchief linen, with tiny floral design in
color scattered over it, this color note be-
ing repeated on the Robespierre collar.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
FaShi0n,s TatcSt WhimS ~
All Women Who These Garments Are Gdsd

can I afford them?" asks the woman
who looks with longing eyes at the friV-
olous whimsicalitics that make up the
underdress Of to-day She knows that
they will only wear a short time, but
they are soft and pretty. The Willy
manufacturer realizes that he is playing
on the innate love OF women for dainty
belongings when he offers them the
fragile lingerie OF the hour. and that
the softer and finer and more beautiful
he can make these garments the more
irresistible will be their appeal.
There are other reasons for the beauty
and fragility Of the modern underdress.
and one Of the most rational is the OK
treme transparency of the outer cover
ings. II the chiffon or lace covering
were stretched over the homely. war
ranted-to-w wear muslins of a decade ago
tho result would be rather ugly; instead
they only partially veil lingerie as filmy
and as beautiful as any part of the outer
costume. Women are refusing TO let
this mode pass into oblivion. and the
new costumes, which are heraldinG the
spring, display bodices quite as trans
parent as any model worn in the past
and skirts that reveal at every step
lacy frills and flounceS.
NOT LIMITED TO PRINCESSes.
Though the first impression one re-
celves after looking over bewilderingly
lovely array Of lingerie is that such
garments are only permissible for the
modern fairy princess-the daughter OF
a Observation-Disclosures are really no'
so extravagant. Even chiffon VIII laun-
der well II care is taken while crepe DE
chine can be washed as satisfactorily as
muslin. provided a good quality Of the
material is purchased. There have
been so many complaints regarding the
inferior qualities of crepe de chine that
the manufacturers have realized the
importance Of using a better grade for
their undergarments. There are also
other fabrics which have the same
transparent and gossamer-like qualities
as chiffon. One Of the most popular Is
crystalline. a combination Of silk and
linen. with the good qualities of both.
The chiffon crepes. the silk voiles ana
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04

A yssslne pomade recommended by Dr.
CasaIsio Is the following:
White vasellne three ounces; castor OIL
cod drawn. one and one-half ounces.
Gallo acid. one and three-quarters Of
cram; oil Of lavender thirty drops.
ELABORATE DIRECTIONS DETER.
Many women who would like TO i'm
Prove the condition Of their hair are
frightened az the elaborate directions. and
b. the injunction 10 DO it every day and
for periods varying from a quarter Of an
hour 20 an hour. Few women in these
busy DAYS feel that they can spare half
hour every morning toward the treatment
q their scalp. and il is not necessary, un-
,ss the scalp is in n very serious condi-
ton A few hints for the busy woman
Is mncient. and above several formulas
have been cited from the personal expe-
renee Of the writer. who knows them 10
b excellent
Before this article closes a word should
v said about the general care OF the hair.
few moments massage does much 10
promote the growth and TO stimulate the
Ealp Brush the hair regularly-by the
'ay. be careful that your hairbrush IS
rec from dust: do not leave IL on your
t1reau 20 gather UP the dust and small
psrtlcles OF dirt IN the atmosphere; this is
Is'y bad for your hair-shampoo the hair
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04

the more expensive fabrics. The upper
part OF the garment may be so lacey
that q can serve as corset cover, and
i'm this case the garment is generally
worn as a combination over the corset.
The drawer legs are formed by the con-
tinuation in panel form OF the back OF
the garment. which is brought forward
and buttoned onto the front. II is an
ingenious idea and has proved to be
practical.
KNOCKERS AND TROUsERETTEs.
Another new garment. which harks back
TO the combination idea, consists of an
undervest and drawers OF Italian silk,
Joined by beading at the waist line, ana
In addition a cache-corset which Sips
over the corset. This idea does away with
the two straps over the shoulder, which
are almost sure to slip and look insight
~ through the transparent outer cover
ing The same manufacturer is bringing
out two new tango Knockers, both in
italian silk and in large variety OF
colorings One reaches only to the knees
where the slight funess is held In by an
elastic band, and the other falls In the
good, OlQ-idSnlOneO pdHNdlOoH SASl w NhO
ankles, where the elastic garter restraints
the fitness. These Knockers afford more
freedom for action than the petticoat and
for this reason are expected TO appeal to
the heart and pocketbook of the tango
enthusiast Despite all that one might
say against the Turkish trousers-and
these Knockers are a feminine version Of
the Turkish trouserettes-they are far
more modest than the slashed skirts.
TANGO PETTiCoATs.
The newest petticoat for the tangoist
comes from the house of Worth. and its
novelty lies in the fastening. From the
waist TO the hem the skirt is fastened at
either side with clips which can be UNI
hooked at any moment when the fancy
for the tango may come upon one. When
the Gins are fastened it Is as tubelike
as any other petticoat. In other or the
dancing petticoats the fulness ls gwen
nv inset fans Of pleated lace or plisse
chiffon or by generous slashings, though
the slashed petticoat, like the slashed
skirt is not so we'll liked by well-dressed
women as It was year ago. The even
inc netticoats of brocaded silk with deep
hounces of pleated lace are often very
lovely. The extravaganza Of the age Is
nowhere more clearly demonstrated than
in the exquisite hand work, the intricate
tracery of metallic threads. and the COST
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
ENVELOPE CHEMlSE'

There are. Of course, many plays on
this ARRANGEMENT. One may. for instance
nrefer to combine the undervest and
drawers in what is known as the ehVei-
ope chemise. Since its introduction iase
wear this garment has steadily grown IN
favor until to-day it is reproduced IN
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
CORSET FOR EACH GOWN
KNOCKERS AND TRoUsERETTEs.

4 brassiere Of hesh-colored mousseline
de sole will blend so perfectly with the
skin that It is almost invisible. One OF the
most practical of these brassieres Is MADE
of two layers Of the hesh-tinted mousse
line de soie and is shaped by means OF
seams and darts TO mould the figure. Each
seam is outlined with cat-stitching and
slight amount of extra fulness can be pro-
cured across the bust by means OF the rib
hon lacing. The narrow straps Of chiffon
over the shoulder are practically inVlsloie
and need not be removed when a decollete
gown is worn.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
BIG BUSINE SS.

The Women's Home Missionary Society
of the Methodist Episcopal Church spent
$500. coo last year. This society controls
eight hospitals.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04

unite this fearsome expression with hat
standing on its own brim. is to make a
sartorial mistake of the first order"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
GLE LACY UNDERDRESS
HAS UNDENIABLY COME TO STAY

ly laces which are adopted TO enhance the
beauty OF these petticosts.
When the petticoat is not worn. knick-
ers of crepe de chine. daintily trimmed
with Nalenciennes lace and French rose
buds, are substituted. Sometimes these
reach to the ankle. where they are held
In by an elastic garter finished with a
lace frill. and again they stop at the
knee, like the knickerbockers of plIsse
chiffon. For everyday wear under the
cloth skirt the silk Jersey knickers are a
boon, though many women cling to the
silk Jersey petticoats.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04

NeHTlE WITH FUR TRIMMING.
Us NIGHT dress is made Of pink, white
CT blue crepe de chine. The edsins
around the neck, cuffs and shoulders
- Of fur. Nine tueks in front and
back and on each shoulder give this
garment shape and dsintlness.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
PRINTED LEATHERS.

Still another, and a more novel, method
OF trimming has been introduced via
China, and this is the use Of printed leath-
ers Here. again, the designs are copied
from old missals, walstcoats and arma-
ment. Just a little OF this leather trim
ming on the collar or inset In the belt goes
long way toward making a suit ex-
elusive and distinguished. The mother-of-
pearl buttons and buckles, also those in
galalith. can be traced to a Chinese origin.
The manufacturers OF fabrics, who
have always their ears close to the
ground, hardened to the rumbings on the
road that leads to China, and immedL
ately adopted the vogue for Chinese art
in the designs of their new spring goods-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
LACE SUCCEEDS EMBROIDERY.

For the last year or two the more ex-
pensive and daintier lingerie has been
trimmed with hand embroidery, but this
year lace is again being used with a
lavish hand. The finer novelty laces give
a very dressy appearance TO combinations
and petticoats. though Valenclennes and
Irish lace. with motifs OF hlet, are also
used. A very dainty effect can be pro-
duced with insertions of plain net; the
white net, in particular. is very effective
when used with the colored linen or ba-
tiste lingerie. Unless one can afford
really good lace, and unless one is quite
sure that the laundress will wash the
garment carefully, hand embroidery is
always preferable. however, and 1t is al
ways in good taste.
The tiny flower trimming is still popu-
lar and often very pretty color schemes
can be developed with Its aid. Instead
OF the pnks and blues and yellows of
the past curious Oriental colorings are
being featured in these ribbon and chiffon
flowers. Brick red roses. nesting against
silver green leaves, were strung i'm chain
fashion TO serve as shoulder straps for
q white crepe de chine combination.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04

OF course handkerchief linen and batiste
ere tho other favored materials. The
silk Jersey fabrics known under the
title OF Italian silk and other trade
names, are used these days not only
for undervosts and combinations, but
for the cache-corsets combinations TO
slip over the corset and for petticoats.
AS they cling to the figure with glove
like outline. they answer TO nicely
the demands of the modern underdress.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
LINES OF GARMENTS.

The desire for transparency that al
most amounts to audacity is probably &C
countable for the vogue OF the pink ana
flesh tone lingerie. Though the other
pastel tints are shown and sold TO a
certain extent. none is as generally popu-
lar as pink The sheer, delicately unteu
lingerie frocks. however, are almost sure
TO bring into favor variously coiored I'M
derdress. and one may be compelled 10
provide lingerie to match each or the
sheer frocks.
In style, the different lingerie garments
follow the modes Of the outer costume.
There is. for instance. noticeable fui-
ness under the arms of the night robes
and even OF many Of the cache-corsets
and combinations. just as there Is on the
newest blouses
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
ROMAN STRIPED PETTIcoATs.

The new petticoat model has a pleated
founce OF the jersey. rather than one OF
silk, which the heel OF the slipper IS
likely to kick out In very short time
Though not yet procurable in the silk
Jersey. the Roman stripe silk petticoats
are new models. They suggest the plaid
silk pettlcoats which were popular five
or six years aso. and like them are eff
fective as a dash of color under a skirt
Of sombre hue. For golfng and tramping,
where the hem gets real hard wear. there
is a skirt OF strong muslin. in which the
material is doubled at the hem and seal
loped.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
INSPIRED BY CHINA

Chinese, or, at any rate, an Eastern, de-
sign, but they didn't hesitate 10 fall back
upon tho West when the customers
seemed to demand a more popular pat
tern,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-04
CHINESE BUTTONS.

The success OF the necklaces was in-
Simultaneous; in the vernacular Of the.
commercial world they caught on at onces
SO assured was their success that the
manufacturers looked around for other
means of displaying the Chinese art and
hit upon buttons. Not only could buttons
be produced from the jade and amber.
but beautiful creations could be devised
from bone in imitation OF carved ivory.
The couturiers as quickly recognized the
beauty Of these buttons: one, or perhaps
two, buttons we're sufficient TO give an
air OF individuality TO an entire costume.
The manufacturers diligently culed the
old Chinese missals, studied the strange
designs on the old mandarin coats and
the priests vestments. and reproduced
them in bone. To give the correct Chinese
finish TO one of these buttons long silk
tassel should be added. and. as fashion
has already decreed that tassels shall be
the favored trimming medium of the
spring. the fashion future OF the Chinese
buttons Is easily foretold.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1914-04-13

It is SO easy to get rid OF pimples
and blackheadss with Resinol. and It
costs 80 little. too. that anyone whose
face is disdgured by these pests il
foolish to keep on with useless cos
metics. or complicated beauty treat
ments. Sec how simply 1t is done:
Battle your face for several minutes
with Resinol Soap and hot water. then
apply little Resinol Ointment very
gently. Let this stay ON ten minutes,
and wash on with Resinol Soap and
more hot water. finishing with q rash
OF cold water to close the pores. Do
this once or twice q day. and you will
be astonished to find how quickly the
healing, antiseptfc Resinol medication
soothes and clenses the pores, leaving
the complexion clear and velvety.
Resinol stops itching instantly and
speedily heals eczema, and other skin
humors. dandrun. sores, burns and
piles Sold by all druggists, Resinol
Ointment. 50 cts. and 81. Resinol
Soap, rs cts. For free trial size, write
Dept. S-R. Resinol. Baltimore, Nd.
Don't be deceived by worthless 'Imi-
tations.''-Adv.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1914-04-13
Turn the Baby's
Tears to Laughter
a Gentle Baby Laxative VIII Quickly
Relieve the Usual Cause
OF the Trouble.

1t is often difficult to tell Just what
is the matter with a crying, peevish
baby or child too young to express its
feelings in words, but as a general
rule the mother will find that there is
q tendency to constipation, which has
brought on a headache or nervous
ness The little one has no pain. but
feels "out of Sorts"
The first thing to try is family
remedy containing good but mild
laxative properties. and many mothers
will say that their choice would be
DIR. Caldwelps Syrup Pepsin. Thous-
ands of mothers keep 1t in the house
for such emergencies, among whom
may be mentioned Mrs. John Kirch,
1r., 1927 Abstract avenue, Pittsburgh,
Pa. She has been giving 1t success
fully to little Waiter, whose picture
we present at three months, when he
weighed 14A pounds. He IL a healthy,
laughing youngster today ana Mrs.
Kirch gladly gives DR.. Caldwell's
Syrup Pepsin credit. 1t saves many
an illness and many a large doctor
bill. for by administering it promptly
when the first symptoms OF illness are
noticed 1t prevents q serious ailment.
1t is so pleastant-tasting that NO
child will refuse it, and as 1t does not
grippe, the child IL glad to take It
again. A bottle can be obtained Of
any druggist for fifty cents or one
dollar. the latter being the size bought
BY families already familiar with its