The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-22
~ ELEANOR uoyr pRAi>ERD.

THIS Is a great season for the
Young thing. 1t ism. n bad
season for tho woman who IL no
longer actually young. but has
kent q semblance of youth. And 1t is
q comfortable season even for the
woman frankly reconcilcd to the years
beyond the forties
So. on the whole. the fashion makers
nave been kind But about those young
things.
There's no denying that the military
modes are, first of all. for them. Tommy
Atkins suits and Scotch caps and
c,iirass,er helmets, shoulder straps and
sword belts. high, tight collars ana
6ultitudinous buttons--all these cnn-
sort peculiarly we'll with the jaunti-
ness OF youth, and while n stout pnd
white haired General doesn't look amss
m his regimentals, q stout and white
haired dowager in a fashionable version
Of Tommy Atkins costume would he n
sight 20 make even tho style hardened
weep.
No, the military modes are for the
young and the near young, and the suits
and frocls and hats that. while not
strictly military follow in subtle fashion
the military lead are AZ their best when
associated with piquant and slender
youth.
There are quantities " models Of
mis- type. and while all have r certain
MR. OF daring a large proportion Of
them are delectably simple. In fact.
simplicity of line and detail IA usually
the keynote Of the costume. The more
conservative models and the models as
picturesque but in vastly different ways
may he elaborate complicated, usthetic,
hit Tommy Atkins goes with dashlnE
sererity. - =
Since the beginning Of the season the
coat but.oning straight up the front 10
the collar or through Il has made rapid
strides in popularity. and though the
manufacturers banked heavily upon
long coat lines and consequently the
frst showing OF ready made suits
offered a majority of long coats. the
short coat has. with moro and more
tnsistence. been demanding favor.
There are still the long coats for those
Who want them and n host of women
have wanted them and will want them.
but the short costume coat has most
emphatically come into It's own. and
one may perhaps truthfully assert that
At this stage OF the fashion game 4.
holds stage centre. 1t may be very
short or medium short. straight. loose
and ripping. fitted, fitted. IT may
be severely plain or ornate. II may bo
Of strictly tailored covert cloth Or fur
trimmed velvet but it is short. and I. Is
a. It's best on the young thing.
In most cases it buttons up snucly
over the chest TO the throat. as has
been said before but this rule is not
tpvariable. and even when Il does but
ton high in front it is often so arranged
that the fronts may he thrown widely
open. forming soft effective coat lapels.
Many women object 10 the tight.
straight. high military collar on the
score Of comfort or of health or Of he
comingness, and there is certainly
something 10 be urged against It on
each OF these grounds.
The military collar in fur is even
worse for the throat and lungs than the
open front coat and decollete chiffon
blouse. \ well known doctor said The
other day: cit can't be thrown open
as a roll collar coat can when a woman
goes into shop or car or other over
heated place, and It can't he taken of
easily as a separate fur neckplece can,
and so the throats viii be steamed and
made tender and we doctors will mako
money ont OF feminine fashion folly as
usual"
He smiled rather sheepishsy after
his harangue.
Both my daughters have fur mill
tary collars on their new winter SUITS
he admitted. what can q man do
. That's just t. What can u man or
any one else doo Military collars are
modlsh. Therefore they will ne worn,
and luckily when becoming they are OK
ceedingly good looking.
With the short cIt and rs military
collar. the skirt varies; Int tn full
skirt without TIME claims pre- ce-
dence in the very smarteSt models and
Is gradually making itself more and
more felt. though for tho great mass
OF winter frockS and suits the Ions
tunic in one form or another will hold
good. Paris sponsored the plain full
skirt early IN the season and the later
models emphasize the idea, but the ear