The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-01-11
Fashions at the Capital
The Well Dressed Woman OF Smart Society What She Wears
The Time and Place.
x + 8 ByM MARC = ~

: Now that the embassy Of Austria Hun.
sary again knows a chatelaine famous
as one Of the best gowned women Of
Europe. and Lady spring-Rice. wife Of
the British Ambassador. has opened her
drawing-room to society. Washington ID
enjoying a season of good dressing. as
that term is understood In the leading
cities of the world as well as In the
worlds capitals.
Nearly 100 years aso Bob Acres told the
play-going world dress does make diff
ference" familiar line neither man or
woman now disputes
Even Mrs. Wilson and her daughters
have succumbed to the modes Of the mo-
Iuent as shown in Washington. although
even after President Wilson's inaugural
the new mistress of the White House was
repeatedly quoted as considering 1900
per year a generous dress allowance. So
this is for the average woman OF the
average country town or small city, but
not in Washington.
The gown in which Nine Dumba, wife
of the Ambassador from Austria-Hun-
gary, made her first formal visits in
Washington would undoubtedly have CALI
cd for one-fourth of s. 900 had it been
paid for in dollars rather than in francs.
This costume Is heliotrope velvet. show
ing considerable fullness about the hips,
but with skirt narrow as ever at the
hem; the latter. it may be remarked, was
not slashed and came to within half an
inch of the ground. This being par ex-
oellence a visiting toilet, not a trottour
costume or a dancing frock. 1t is par
ticularly to the ladies OF the diplomatic
circle one may look for correct details
of time and place in regard to dress A
diplomats wife from London, Paris, or
Vienna would as soon think OF going to
church in a ball gown as attending q
formal reception in a trottour costume.
however handsome.
The tunic overdress Of Nine Dumba's
velvet visiting dress is of silver lace over
net. The lace forms nat
short panel in front with the net edged
in silver lace, arranged in bouffant dra-
perry in the back The bodice showed the
long, narrow collar line OF silver lace
with a guimpe Of cream net crossed by
heliotrope tulle and silver amethyst cords
A round hat of silver lace with plume Of
heliotrope standing high above the crown
completes this particular toilet. with
which was worn a carriage wrap Of sable.
Lady Spring-Rice also shows a decided
preference for violet velvet for cere-
monious visits. The color in her gown
is more mauve than heliotrops with an
overdress almost entirely Of gold net. The
bodice of the latter opens in a long v
with bands of Honiton lace OF rich creamy
whiteness next the skin. The British
Ambassadors wore hat of velvet in the
same shade as her gown, with ostrich
plumes of shaded violet, the costume hat
being quite the leading favorite with we'll
dressed women who can AFFORD a hat for
every gown. Lady Spring Rice also wears
4 fur coat ever her velvet gown. but In
,rmine.
The han1somest gown seen at the ball
or the Children's Hospital On Monday,
when for the third time this winter So
ciety danced and suppeI in gay attire for
charitys sake. had with few exceptions
IN the evening".
For the dinner gown is the gown of !
gowns in Washington, just as the dinner |
party is the most important Of social |
functions. notwithstanding the adverse |
criticism OF the high official who says
WashingtaI.'s only idea of entertainment |
and hospitality is to ''stun'' people.
Not only the best gowns, but the most |
beautiful jewels seer a: the New Willard |
IN Monday, emphasized the value of the |
dinner party. for not even when Washing |
ton knew only one charity hall each sea- |
son, and that graced by the President of |
the United States, has the sartorial sue
cess of a public ball been so great.
Mrs. Marshall. wife of the Vice Presi- j
dent, wore a superb toilet of white satin, |
brocaded in silver, said to have been de- |
signed for the inaugural ball which never |
came off. II this gown was made nearly
a year ago, Mrs. Marshall is to be con-
graduated on the foresight of her
diSfa he praeidantfv x1-ifa
never looked handsomer or more dis
tinguished than on this occasion. The
gown has the well-defined waist line the |
width across the hips, and the new, long |
'front.' all marks of the present season. L
The costume is presumably in one piece L
With a petticoat front of net, incrusted
IN pearls and crystal beads. This same
sarniture is applied to the bodice. which
Is made with a square neck and half
ength sleeves, the latter in net, COW
cred in small artistic designs.
u
Nine. Bakhmeteff, wife of the Russian
Ambassador. whose taste for the gorge
BUS fabrics and deep coloring of her
adopted country makes her one of the
most attractive figures in any fashionable
company, is showing close affinity be- ,
ween gown and jewels that is the high
st development of good dressing.
Diamond tiaras and ropes of pearls.
While conceded first place in the line of
eminine adornment, lose much Of their ,
Irtistic effect when seen at one dinner
,arty after another topping a gown that
nay be white or black, blue or green,
ust as milady's modiste presents her {
wares. In
This uniformity Of jewels, regardless
4 the gown. is not for the American
Tife of the Cars envoy, whose jewel
asket holds one of the most varied as
veil as most valuable collections in ,
america.
On Monday evening. with gown of !
elbow velvet. brocaded in gold, her neck 4,
ace and tiara OF diamonds We're supple ,
nented by corsage ornaments of topaz.
Matching the gown in color.
With blue gown Nine Bakhmeteff
dds a necklace Of turquoise to a string
Z pearls, while with another toilet, en- G
n