The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-01-11
PLEATS HAVE RETURNED TO FAVOR AND
SOUNDED <NELL OF SLASEIE5D SKIRT !.

VVCE GOIA<Ak Va CAahHASs SA6hkty A0ASCA u
the back. Such collar Is thrown over
the coat after the manner OF ordinary
linen collars
second drawing was created in Paris for
the Princess Amedee de Broglie. The
latter has always remained faithful to
what may Be called the royal style.
That Is to say, she has never accepted
fashions which are merely smart;
neither has she gone to the theatres for
fresh ideas. She Is one OF the select
circle Of souls which used to be pre-
de Tredern, and which continues to
exercise q strong, II subtle, influence
upon the world Of dress in Paris.
The mantle shown in my sketch IL
original az 1t Is beautiful. The leading
material Is ivory white chiffon velvet
and a very novel note Is struck by the
large sleeve entirely composed OF hand
painted and embroidered gauze. This is
one Of the new materials Of the moment.
1t was first introduced by the Maison
Liberty and 1t is extraordinarily rich
and effective. Upon a background OF
shot gauze, In which metallic lights
show themselves. curious designs are
or gold threads are introduced between
these designs and in certain parts gilt
tering beads arc Also added. At little
distance 1t is impossible to say what this
material is composed OF. The general
effect is rich and magnificent. but the
colors are 80 skiifully blended that de-
tails are lost Liberty has made some
superb scarfs In this material; he Ia
also using It for draped tunics on some
OF his more expensive dinner gowns.
In passing l may mention that Pr1n-
cess Amedee de Broglie has been en-
tertaining largely this Christmas at her
wonderful Chateau de Chaumont- sur
Loire. This historic country seat was
built in the reign Of Louis XII. by Car
dinal d'Ambrose. It Is environed by
interesting traditions one OF which
deals with Catherine de Medici's fer
vent desire. In the year 1850, to ex-
change Chaumont for Chenonceaux, the
latter estate being then In the possession
OF the famous Diane de Poitiers 1t was
at the Chateau de Chaumont -sur- Loire
tina. Princess Amedee gave her now his
toric fete de mutt In honor OF the
Maharajah OF Kapurshaia.
It Is impossible to study the models
for evening wraps which are now being
created by the leading dress artists of
that we have entered upon a period OF
extreme splendor and luxury. Never, !
think, were more exquisite materials
freely used; never. ! am sure, were
priceless embeoideries and lacea more
ID evidence. And 1t is, as have Just
indicated. especially in the world Of eve
ming wraps that We find this unbridied
lrSxury: this Fiotsqf color and rich ma
t4rial s~s !
AT the present moment there Is one
word which reigns supreme where fash
ions are concerned, and that word IL
supple" The new velvets and bro
cades are soft and supple rs silk mus
Inns; even the fashionable furs are so
cleverly prepared that they can be
manipulated as easily as . length OF
chiffon. No material has any chance OF
success. however beautiful IT may be IN
color or texture, II 1t Is not exaggsr-
atedly supple. Antonio de la GandarA
said to me the other day. We are ap-
preaching a period In which dress will
be more magnificent than In the days
Of Cleopatra" and agreed with the ia
nous portrait painter.
We certainly are steadily approach
ing a period in which beautiful gowns
viii have a chance of being shown on
IN really beautiful homes. We are. in
fact. on the eve of Renaissance in the
world OF dress and house decoration. In
one or two Of my recent articles
limited at the great change which II
gradually coming over Europe In the
matter Of taste This change will make
itself felt very slowly, but sooner or
later II viii influence every one.
For the last twenty or thirty years
Europe has been baroque. 1t has inter
ested itself in this stylA and that; 1t has
been Japanese and Persian and 1880
and Greek and many other things Dur
ing that period It would have been DIM
cult, II not impossible, to indicate In q
few words the spirit az the age; for the
age. 20 far a. one could see. was con-
sumed by the spirit that weak curiosity
which n the father OF copy cats"
Fashion has been at - In rudderiess
boat. Now. however. ahe means to en-
bark in q beautiful new vessel which
has been specially brilt to suit her re-
ouirements In word. We are about to
create q period. distinct style which
viii be found worthy to rank with the
First Empire and the Louis Nv. fash
ions, &c. This change will not arrive
tomorrow. but It 10 on tn way.
must not neglect to mention that I
have shown on the figure wearing the
wrap created for Princess Amedee de
Rrorlic the latest method OF dressing