The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-07-12
1.-THE Englishman is watchful and suspic GUS"

This Is not one of the striking facts
which the true champagne interests
want the world to learn. however. They
will call attention rather to the forts
OF the Aube and Upper Marine districts
what becomes of the remainder OF
their 100000 quarts, for instance?
Nor is that all. The world Graves to
drink the wine of kings. though 1t be
headachy, fraudulent cremes de Bouzy
and Ay mousseuX shipped from Saumur
Dion. Besancon and Bordeaux to Eng
and and her colonies, South Africa and
The two Americas in quantities suffi-
Hient to physic an army twice a week
for year OF twelve months. Their
'orks are branded with the names OF
phantom firms: under the auspices of
Mythical counts and dukes the wines
ire labelled as Of some chateau near
'halons, Nerzenay Mailly. Chigny,
Moussy. Vinay--who knows? All the
'artes Noires and Cartes Blanches you
desire.
Pretty girls under the grape leafcd
trellises OF the champagne Jubilee will
tell Monsieur the harm Of wine sur
charged with alcohol OF the potato.
The wine, perhaps. is not bad--but the
potato! OF 1t comes pains in the hairs
OF morning and disgust Of living!
But this wine Is n wine natural at s
per cent. or IL per cent, not raised.
Perhaps II Is from the Aube.
A feature Of the Jubilee will be a res
toration OF the ruined Abbey OF Haute-
villers where. $50 years ago, Dom
Perignon discovered the pop.
Wonderful moving picture films will
show the old monk strolling through
those very cellars. where he loved to
inspect the orderly ranks Of the bottles.
sfumberng like an army.
They had always slumbered.
No champagne-or any other wine
had ever Weakened.
How did 1t happen? The invention Of
the wooden cork was a prime element.
The deep cellars OF the abbey favored
II. And Dom Perignon may have
checked active fermentation and con-
verted II into latent by a chance re-
moval Of casks to colder tempera-
ture.
Suddenly the monk thrills
Before his eyes a cork jumps from
its bottle; then another. then two. then
three--the wine gushing from the bot
ties. flowing on the cellar floor!
Stupefied, Dom Perignon seizes bot
tie. Astonishing phenomenon. From
its mouth a strange foam trembles. I'M
known. golden; and he pours a little OF
the effervesclng liquid into the silver
goblet which he always carries at his
girdle.
He tastes. You taste. 7 taste. But
for the great connoisseur ii is to weigh
the world The Benedictine shuts his
eyes. He inbreathes the fragrant gases,
to the depths Of his lungs. mingling
with the oxygen OF his life. His lips
are not yet wet, yet Dom Perignon
trembles-the sensation is so beautiful,
Now he takes his first gulp. Tongue,
mouth. palate, dance beneath the pick
of the first swallow OF sparkling cham
payne in the world, composed OF grace
force. gayety. See, he fears a disillu-
sion! What II the new liquid, 80
agreeable to the taste. should have n
muddy, ugly look? No, nature has
united In the miracle all her seduc-
tons. The wine is light colored. clean
cut, clear as crystal. And-astonish-
ment upon astonishmcnt.-- meteor
shower of laughing bubbles dances up
continually.
stars" exclaims Dom Perignon.
I'm drinking stars"
He kneels to thank heaven for the
miracle. II seems indeed a miracle