Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-12-29

In the selection of suit the woman
who will wear it, alone should be the
judge of the style, but she should be-
ware OF the over-long or over-short
coat and skirt, for extremes in fash
ion are never in good taste. The
styles are new and smart-if the
skirts were narrow, which they most
certainly are not, the silhouette would
be exactly as it has been for months
and months, but the aribters of fash
lon have widened the hems, taken
width from the hips, eliminated drap-
cry and given us straight lines from
the nape of the neck to the turn of
our heel, broken only by fullness be-
! low the knee. The very short walk
ing skirt promises to be good; it is
delightfully."- convenient and com.
! Portable fashion, but it can be over
done in a most conspicuous way. A
woman with large hips or a mature
figure will not look we'll in the style.
and the thin, angular woman will do
we'll to carefully watch every eighth
of an inch that is taken off or put on
the hem Of her dress.
The newest styles shown for the
suit are the full skirts, with the short
jackets. One suit which used as an
! Illustration is made of dark-brown
broadcloth. The jacket is short and
made with wide belt, which helps
to give it the fashionable boxed ap-
pearance. Except for the buttons the
entire suit is made of the broadcloth
alone without ornamentation.
Another version of the short coat
and full skirt combined is shown in the
second illustration which is of blue
velour. The short jacket has a shaped
belt on the lower edge which comes to
point on either hip. This is braided
but the cuffs and revers and collar are
of the same material as the rest of
the suit. The skirt is circular, plain
fitting around the waist and flaring at
the bottom.
Blue serge and gabardine seem to
be the most popular choice of all
fabrics, and it is unquestioned that
they are by far the most serviceable
OF all materials. In serge the fine
small rib is first style. 1t is smartest
for dressy costume because it is fine
and smooth and will lend itself readily
to the more elaborate style of suit
Serges with heavier rib or a wider
vale are more suitable for the palmer
and more severe types. Gabardine Is
a very strong favorite also, and is one
Of the smartest of materials. 1t is
more of novelty than plain serge
and promises to be tremendously
popular for spring. Any style suit
can be made of it, for the character
of the material gives it a great deal
of style. Then there is that which
is known as gabardine wolfe, finer
weave of this same material, for those
who prefer lighter weight in cloth.
Fine Ottoman cords are quite a
smart novelty in wooden Fabrics and
narrow faille weaves, the same as in
the silk, and are very new and dis
tinctive. A number of etamine cloths
are shown. The weave of these is
closer and finer than that which we
have had in past years and it will
doubtless be big success.
For dressy frocks there is s0t'~
galore-some of it with wonderful
high luster and some with dull cire
effect. Faille silk in both wide and
marrow cords will be much worn for
street costumes. There is a beauti
full silk known as "poult-de-soie~ it is
the same weave as faille, but is crisp
to the touch, like taffeta silk In
diagonal weave these are very smart
when combined with satin. MORE
with marking that is scarcely visible
is also shown. Taffetas as soft as
chiffon are used for three piece cos.
tunes.
Trimming for the suits will depend
of course, upon the individual who
wears it. There are fiat silk hercules
ibraids in all widths and applied in al
most every way. A smart finish for