The Yale expositor., 1914-06-11
New Garment Without Doubt Is
Here to Stay, and Many viii
Welcome II.
GOOD IDEA FOR COSTUME
Ribbons or SILK Cords May Be Used In
Place Of Wide Sash-Corsets IN
doubtedly Returning to Their
Proper Degree Of
Favor,

~ ARIS.-It is not easy to get away
from the jacket that looks more
like a sacQue than coat Pos
sibly no one wants to avoid 1t, but It
is not for the stout and the thin alike
One must consider the proportions
II one has an idea OF looking ones
best, and not merely following a fash
ion.
AS all efforts to bring IN the long
incroyable coat have failed so far, one
must take up the subject of this ac-
cepted short jacket with serious con-
sideration. 1t is evidently the choice
OF the majority, and 1t is only natural
TO suppose that as the summer pro-
crosses the short affair will increase
In fashion; as women have q rooted
objection to wearing one inch more
Of material in this summer climate
than is necessary, one is led to be-
Heve that we shall see that the lines
OF the figure cut at the waist line
by this sacque coat on figures to
whom 1t is becoming and to whom it
is not
There are two models worn so far,
writes a correspondent of the Wash
ington Star. One is straight and fol-
lows the lines of the figure without
touching it, and the other has a rip
ping back from shoulders to hem.
This hem is only an inch or two be-
low the waist line.
None OF these new coats, it seems.
is TO be SO long as to hide the top
part Of the sash, for, mind you, the
strongest Persian influence we have
had In three months lies today in the
hip sash, which goes lower and lower
each week
Good Effect in Short Coat.
Mark this fact we'll, for in 1t lies
many Of the best possibilities of this
short coat 1t lengthens the line from
the shoulders to the hips and allows
many women to adopt the fashion
who otherwise could not do 1t. On
the slender figure the effect Is admir-
able, and even on the women whose
hips are perceptible the line is helped.
II is difficult to see the beauty Of
the short waist except in gowns where
the classic idea is consistently main
tanned, and this is not possible for the
street That is the trouble with all
artistic endeavor In dress that Is not
backed by practical experience.
heard a story in Paris of how Leon
Bakst once designed some wonderful
gowns for two Russians of high de-
gree to be worn at fancy dress ball
In court circles In St Petersburg.
When they were given to a dress
maker he was In despair as to how
to make them. They looked marvel
ously well on paper. but they could not
be cut nor put together In cloth. They
were soap bubbles that could only
be imprisoned in paint.
Finally this dressmaker called In
the designer and demanded that he
be shown how to make these creations.
Bakst gathered all the filters and cut
ters belonging to this famous house,
and this stan worked for days with
out result When the gowns we're
finally finished they were impossible
and utterly unlike the colored draw.
ings that Bakst had made The Rus
SLAMS OF high degree we're compelled
to throw them aside, although they
had cost $500 apiece. Others had to
be made by the practical dressmaker.
Practical knowledge Needed.
All Of which goes to show how the
lack of practical knowledge is a de-
cir@d drawback to great artists. 1t Il