New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-06-11
DLEATINGS have been assigned
a major role in the production OF
this seasons modes. No matter

pleatings show TO advantage II CUT
rectly worn.
In one model knee-deep pleated
overskirt is the prominent feature OF
2 tete-de-negre taffeta skirt. The
Jacket would be no more than point
ed back Elton were it not heightened
by a ten-inch wide pleating. headed
with a broad black velvet ribbon. A
wide sailor collar in velvet hides the
set-;n tops OF the velvet cuffed sleeves
and gives a youthful suggestion 10
precisely the sort of suit needed tor
weekend visits. 1t is not whit too
elaborate even for a long journey in
these days of railway travelling de
luxe.
rlounces Fern, Part Of Jacket.
Pleatings form the lower half OF a
Jacket belonging to blue tatieta skirt
about whose hips at top and base are
set pleated fcunces. The jacket,
which starts as bolero, is heightened
Nv a pleating belted at the waist and
forming a narrow peplum below it,
The fronts, opening over a white linen
waistcoat. turn back into the smallest
Of revers, which run into a narrow
collar standing we'll away from the
throat and of a type well worth
noticing in that it is harbinger OF
the ecclesiastical neckwear which
seems destined to have prominence
next autumn.
Plaid moire ribbon of great width
IS the ideal material for the pleatcd
tunics, which, with collar and CUTS to
match. give an air to many a silk
gown of sombre hue.
Batiste Accessories for Linen.
Blue linen frocks for morning street
wear and for travelling during torrid
weather are deemed ultra smart.
MANY of them would'be very ordinary
were it not for their pleated batiste
accessories. These wide neck frills'
partly overlapped by white organize
collars; double-frilled cuffs, separated
by bands, and girdle-peplurns. divided
by belts. are small details which hit
them above the commonplace. There
are always several sets CT these at
tachable trimmings, for when wl-ted
they are most unattractive, and above
all else the well-drcssed woman pTioeS
herself upon the NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
dry appearance of he. "a;hable be-
longings.
Balloonlike silhouettes are pro-
duced by the pleated trimmings on
certain of the frivolous little models
in satin which are destined to disport
themselves on the beaches OF summer
resorts. The skirts, although knife
pleated are pitifully scant about the
ankles, and the knees are closely held
in by the lower edge of a frill-hnished
pleated band which flares toward the
base of the hips and there holds the
skirt away from the figure.
This tapering scheme is continued in
a short jacket, the back of which is
dragged in below the waist line and
the front of which, at the bust, are
knotted over a loosely falling lace
waistcoat. Immensely chic is this satin
suit, and unusual. Also exceedingly
simple.
Balloon Tunio PIeated.
Even more balloonlike is the three
quarter length tunic continuation OF a
pleated white chiffon long-sleeved and
V.fronted bodice yelling a white satin
afternoon gown. So full are the
pleatings that of themselves they hold
the tunic away from the knees, where
the silhouette is definitely broken by a
brown net ruching edging. Similar
ruchings band the sleeves and define
the decolletage of the bodice at the
belt, at which nestles a cluster OF
brown roses. With either an all-white
or an all-black frock brown roses are
chic.
Full and spreading are the double
tier of tulle Aounces falling to the
ankles of an evening gown in sky blue
satin. The underskirt is so draped
that the feet emerge from its folds as
though the body were incased in
Turkish trousers. Nevertheless, the
under portion of this gown is skirt,
albeit an extraordinarily scant one.
Its even scantier bodice consists Of
'ulle lengths running from the girdle
upward. Two of them, caught at the
shoulders, form a deeply pointed
deolletage, while the other pair,
caught six inches from the shoulders,
form underarm drapings and excuses
tor sleeves.
A black note is furnished by velvet
butterfly bow set at the deep point
where the decoletage joins the blue
satin girdle and loops up string OF
roses Rariandinp the hips. The pink