The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-15
n, ELEANOR uoYr BRAINERD.

rT would take a French Journalist to
write adequately about the new
seasons evening froCks. The ak
uuisite textures colors and trim
m.u-s call for rhapsody, and only a
Irouchman can dip his pen in rainbow
mist and write impassioned poetry
about, velvet and satin and skirt drapcry
and bodice folds with utter, glad aban-
dra.
The Anglo saxon chronicler halts
s.f-cousciuusly upon the outer boun-
diary Of mode description: but your
i.ronrhman! We'll. probably that has
had much to do with French supremacy
s.. sty,c creation. There is stimulus
90 yric praise.
Rut. even though the American pen
nay not hymn the beauties of the new
Skis and velvcts and laces and sheer
.uffs. American dressmakers are
.hieving frocks worthy of the mate
rl.s put into them, and perhaps that's
more TO the point.
ore doesn't have to spend much
money on an evening frock If one is not
Inclined 10 do it: but If one is so in
ircIined-houp Ia. The way is open.
Twenty-Five dollars yard for a bro
c1de does not seem to staggcr the
woman who wants stunning Moycn
Age evening gown. and though the eth
les NJ such gown buying in these war
times may Nc dobat table, might be de-
latahc even in piping times of peace,
nc merchants have the goods and a
-urprsing number Of women seem to
hove the money. When one adds to the
hyucdde bands of costly fur and a liberal
supply Of real lace and fashionable
drosSmdker's estimate Of the value Of
her services one attainS sum total
rather appalling to a woman whose cal
.u,ations are directed chiefly toward
serving omelcts with eggs at so cents
e. dozen.
However there's this to he said for
ire extravaganza. The gowns are usu-
ally beautiful which isn't always the
case with the most eXtravagant OF a
seasons modes. The prevailing sim
0oi'y of Inc lends itself to the success
~ rich and beautiful stuffs as well as
- simpler frocks and at its best. at
tho better Of its two extremes, one might
sly, this winters evening froCk is an
attractive thing.
In the first place, one must make a
distinction. There is the evening frock
and there is the dance frock to be worn
n tho evening. There are a hundred IF
formal models, but these formal eve
ming frocks have multiplied since last
year. are multiplying still. Save on the
doWager. a trained gown was exceed
inCiy rare last winter This season
the train is more assertive. one sees
Il here. there. everywhere. side by side
with the shortest and modest and most
outrageouSly frivolous Of dance skirts.
and 1t is by no means always feature
~ very costly frocks. though the richest
NJ tho materials naturally yield amiably
90 train treatment.
Eroadly speaking the modish formal
evening gown divides itse.f into two
classes. one shows normal II large
waist hnc. a very low cut sleeveless
bodice that is exceedingly diaphanous
4 Il exists at all. above the bust; =
draped skirt that for all It's gracious
flowing fulncss manages to preserV" =
c.inging Silhouette. and a rather short
train pointed or square
Very often there Is a floating drap"Iv
~ maine or lace or net falling from
mo shoulders or dccolletage line in tho
back. and the Cleverness with which this
picturesque note Is added is the test
NJ the designers skin. often, too, tho
train * merely a floating breadth Of
such flmv drapery or Of net or lace
'nnc ana the foundation material Of
tho frock does not trail
There Is Sc, pc in such frocli for
evtromc grace and charm within limits
'alr,y conservative; and the average
woman will look better In a frock of
This type than in the short fluffy dance
'rock, though she might not foot it 50
lightly with the train and the floating
draper!es to be considered.
The pink brocade of the large cut
was a successful model on these refined
and conservative lines. texture, color
Inc and detail all combining to form n
harmonious whole that held not a suG-
cest.on Of the bizarre. The material
was a very supple but rich silk of the
I'D grJsGran class, brocaded at
rather wide intervals with a conventions
a'!zcd floral design in silver; and the
most delicate and fairyllk" of silver
laces was used for draperies and trim
m,ngs These richer silks-silks that
though very supple have more pooy
than those to which we have been aC-
c1stOmcd OF latc-arc gaining favor, n
thing to he expected in view of the fact
that skirts are widening at bottom and
earning to flare. Whether We shall
ever get back to the silks that would
stand alone" which We're the pride OF
our grandmothers' hearts, Is doubtful
hut It does seem probable that richer
and heavier silks will have their m
nings before fashions pendulum swings
N" other way again. Faille, bengaline
MORE arc already in the van.
Silver lace, which plays an important
part in the pink brocade model, is very
generally used throughout the province
Of the evening frock. One sees com
paratvely little gold save in certain
very rich brocades, but silver is every