davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-07-08

n TO feature of present fashions is
N more interesting or more
striking than the rapidity
with which a new style can be pushed
once it has been fairly launched and
seems at all likely to meet with sue
cess. Just now we are confronted
with a very remarkable and sudden
development Of the basque. 1t is
not many weeks since the first gar
ments of the sort were heralded as
extreme novelties yet already we meet
them upon the street and see them
exploited in the shops. While hap
PLY we no longer are compelled to
adopt any one style and each season
is sure to see fairly generous number
Ct models. unquestionably the basque
idea is the influencing one and we
may look for development along such
lines.
Every student Of fashions know,
that fancy skirts will inevitably mean
plain bodices. When the long tunics
and plated tunics appeared, we were
watching to see what the change in
bodices would be. Evidently, to some
extent at least, it is to take the form OF
the basque and it is not improbable
that by autumn we will see a general
tendency toward closer fit. OF nothing
is it truer than of matters sartorial
that, when the pendulum swings, it
swings to extremes. We have had
bodices as loose as they could be made
and yet serve their purpose and now
we are to have tighter ones, although
how tight and to what extent the
tendency is to be pushed. it is as yet
impossible to say.
The great French races held at thi.
season are always the occasion upon
which new ideas are launched but
often and indeed generally, it happens
that the summer months are taken
as the time for development and when
it comes forth as the accepted fashion
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-07-08

reign, so that the degree of the flare
and the width of the frill can always
be modified until the most becoming
line is obtained.
Hats are small for the most part
but often an effect of extreme height is
given by the trimming and flowers are
put to produce really wonderful effects.
while so many made-up feathers in
aigrette style are offered that it re-
quires the expert to discover whether
or not the law is broken and what IS
real and what is not. Combinations
Of straw with silk are to be found
upon a great many of the hats for the
early season, and the effect is always
a pretty one, but, for the most part,
flowers are really bright and gay,
showing fascinating little punches that
might have been gathered from one of
the old-time gardens where roses and
lilies and forget-me-nots grew side by
side
Parasols are simply wonderful, for
one can use perfectly plain simple one
to carry with simple toilettes and the
most wonderful color effects for the
resorts, country clubs and costumes
that call for such.
Really there seems to be every
opportunity for beautiful effects. Ac-
eesssories as well as the costumes
themselves have been regarded with
extreme care. 1t only behooves each
one of US to put together the right
things. Even the chains and neck
'laces that have become so general are
suggestive.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-07-08
LATEST FASHION NOTES FROM
THE FASHION CENTERS

greater number of basque costumes
described. the garment being shirred
in the seams and at the front edges,
so relieving the severity and some
what concealing the lines of the figure.
When women wore this plain, uncom-
promising basque and the jersey, they
had been trained to small waists. The
effect of the garment on the figures Of
today is not desirable vet it is the very
latest cry from Paris that everything
must be natural; all the really human
curves and lines must appear. The
exaggerated straight front corset must
be cast aside. We must see such con-
tour as belongs to the famous Venus
or as near an approach thereto as can
lie obtained Before we can achieve
quite the condition required, there will
he needed little time for, amenable as
is the feminine mind to dictates OF
the sort and compliant as is the
feminine figure to the demands made
upOIl IT, VIC Ndli lidl dly DIlIIS ABOUT
Just this silhouette without effort
Paris. the capricious, has forsworn
even face powder and hair dye of
artificial tone and not alone the
bizarre, bright colored wigs are already
passe, it is also true that hair suggest
ing artificial co1oring of any sort.
whether it be the artificial blonde or
the extreme chestnut, is no longer
smart. The proper effects today are
those to be found in nature. whether we
can grow the hair or must buy it, the
really natural tints are the ones to
follow.
We are entering upon an era in
many ways and it is likely to develop
ment along a great many different
lines and to bring with it no really
sudden changes of any really radical
order.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-07-08

~ course we will wear lingerie
J gowns. No summer ever yet
was complete without them,
but this season of 1914 is distinctive
Une and lingerie costumes are taking
on certain new and interesting touches
and features while there is offered a
whole host of light weight thin ma
terials Of slightly more substantial
sort. Whatever may or may not
have been open to criticism in the
earlier stages Of the fashionable sill
houette. as it stands to-day it is ex-
ceedingly charming, exceedingly at
tractive and it has the rare virtue
Of being easily adapted to individual
needs.
Fascinating little jackets or coatee,
Of brightest colored silks will be worn
over white gowns and nothing prettier
ever was devised. Young girls will
wear all white dresses with really bril-
liant sashes and accessories and every
girl knows that, when the color of the
trimming on a white gown is changed.
the whole effect 10 new, so that one
costume often can be made to do duty
for two or three. The colors to be
worn In this way are lovely. Cerise
and green and splendid yellows are
favorites with blues that represent
certain off shades difficult to name
but very beautiful in effect.
Naturally necks are to be open
throughout the warm weather season.
but ruches and ruffs are worn in
variety. We have had the Medici
en ects for some time and now is added
he collar suggestive Of El1abeth's
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-07-08

ESIGN for embroidering corset
cover with straight upper edge.
Scallops for both upper and
lower edges are given.
The scalloped edges are designed
to be padded and buttonholed, the
sprays OF leaves and circles can be
worked either in solid embroidery OF
as eyelets, the stems to be outlined.
and the conventionaiiZed flowers made
in solid work.
To pad the scallops rapidly and
effectively, work chain stitch between
the lines, heavier at the center. Lighter
at the points or cut a sleein Of thread,
apply two or more strands over tbs
center of the stamped pattern. keeps
ing within the lines.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-07-08

NE5IJNS IUE WA440h0h4mBh8 S6
doylies, each elk inches 10
diameter.
The daisies can be worked either
solidly or as eyclets, with the leaves
worked solidly and the stems outlined.
The roses and their leaves arc to be
worked in long and short stitch, with
the turned over edges Of the petals
worked solidly. the stems and veins
outlined. The stamens of the wild
rose are to be made in French knots.
The rosebuds are to be worked
soIidly with their leaves IN long and
short stitch.
The grapes can be worked solidly
or as eyeIets with the leaves in long
and short stitch, the veins and ten.
drills outlined.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
A GUARANTEED
 RELIEF FOR ASTHMA

q want every Asthma sufferer in Norwich to try my treatment entirely at my risk" Dr. Rudolph Schiffmann
 announces. "Go to Pitcher & Service, 253 Central Avenue. and get a 5O-cent
 package of my Asthmador and should it fail to give instant relief. these drug gists will cheerfully refund your money
 without any question whatever" The
 Doctor says further, 'tNo matter how violent the attack, how obstinate the case or what else has failed, my Asth- mador or Asthmador Cigarettes will give instant relief. usually in 10 sec onds but always within IS minutes. Hundreds of unsolicited testimonials
 ahundantly prove what my remedy has done, and I know it will do the same for others. I am so positively certain
 that it will produce instant relief and
 will be found the best remedy eyer
 used that have no fears of authoriz- ing these druggists to give this guar antee or of their being called upon for the refunding of money" No risk whatever is run in buying this remedy under this positive guarantee.
 Persons living elsewhere will be SUD- piled under the same guarantee by their local druggist or direct by pr. R. Schiffmann, St. Paul, N1inn.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
TIME TO ACT ON THE FACTS.

It seems to be a question whether theory or common sense view or the situation based upon the existing facts is going to prevail in the regulation of the railroads. The theoretical opera ton of railroad system is likely to differ. very materially. from what is actually possible, just the same as this is true in other lines of business.
 From the cross examination of Pres- ident Willard of the Baltimore & Ohio by Attorney Brandeis it would appear from his reasoning that the roads should look after extensions, the ar engagements for the necessary finances and meet the demands of the conn., mission without giving any attention as to whether they were being oper- ated as a successful business proposi- ton, to the credit of the system or it's future.
 The fact is as the New York Times says that 'the railway situation as a whole is before the commission. They must stand and fall together. MT. Brandeis is so wrapped in his con- ceit of an ideal railway that he has lost sight of the conditions in a work aday world. Heretofore he has car ried the commission into the clouds with him. It is time at least for the commission to come down to earth and business"
 It is certainly no part of the con- missions duty to place their faith in Hreams. It needs and should have the sold, hard facts and upon those its aecision should be based,
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
WARsHlP LIFE PREsERVERs.

From the manner in which the sub marine is displaying its terrors and picking off vessels and the most of their crews with little or no warning, 1t is timely action which has been aken by the British admiralty for the Lffording of greater protection to the men in the navy, when it requires that Iwimning collars must be carried at LII times when awake, and left inflated dose at hand while asleep.
 Several thousand lives have been wiped out by the inability of the men o sustain themselves in the cold water intil they could be picked up, while he order forbidding naval vessels rom going to the relief of stricken rarship because of the chance of in- riting a similar fate placed even great IT dependence upon themselves. With Iach ship looking out for itself the protection which will be afforded by swimming collar in the hands of each member of the crew is an appreeiable me Strange as it may seem there Te always many in a warship's crew Vho cannot swim. There are also con- htions which make it almost impos-
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
THEN-and-NOW

Ninety-one years ago today the potato-bug was given it's first pub ieity in the United States. It was then that Thomas Say described to the members of the Academy of Natural Sciences i'll Philadelphia the new bug which he had discov- cred on the Upper Missouri while accompanying as its zoologist the United States Government explor- ing expedition to the Rocky Noun tains. He named it the "decemlin- eata." It was the first known de- scription in American records, though 1t was common in unset tied Missouri and Arkansas where it lived on the sand-burr, it's or iginal food plant. Neither the zool- ogist nor his auditors suspected the fearful rapacity of the insect. Forty years passed before the first pub lished announcement in the United States appeared of the potato-bug as a destructive agent. A letter from farmer, J.. Egerton of Grav- ity. Iowa, appeared in the Prairie ''They made their appearance up- on the vines (potato) as they were up. devouring as fast as they grew" The announcement fell like a bomb among the farmers. Nine years later. in 1870, the pest. then com monly known as the Colorado po- tato-beetle,. had eaten it's way to march of devastation led up to the Rocky Mountains. which seemed to act as a barrier, as it had to other pests, for further progress. -IIA sB qlnos IeJ sB pepuslxe peu II ginia, and was gradually under mining the whole potato industry in the United States.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

Today the plant and animal pests in the United States are costing, including the money expended in the national crusade of extermina- tion and the value of crops de- stroyed by pests, nearly s1.0o0,00o.- economiv problem and affect every individual in the nation. Their numbers and names are legion--a zoologist has declared that there are 10,000,000 species in the insect world, half of which are destructive to plants and animals. The cinch- bug ravages cereals causing a loss Of about 0,0oQ,0o0 a year. The Hessian Fly, named after the Hes sian soldiers who brought them to this country while fighting in the American Revolution, has been re- ported as eating 5o.o0o. 900 worth Of stored wheat. The ordinary grass hopper has taken more than ESQ., 100000 out of the American agricul- tural till, while the Jan Jose scale has destroyed trees worth many millions. The boll-weevil, the foe Sf,,. of cotton, has an n anmual anD doo board white pine blister, the Mediter- ranean fruit fly. the gypsy and brown-tail moths. and the potato wart have become such serious menaces that the United States Government has barred plant products from abroad that are hke- 1y to carry such pests from impor- tation into this country. The weapons in use to repe1 the insect invaders are chemicals. birds, and such insects as feed upon their more predatory relatives. It is a great, unceasing war in which the pests seem to be stubbornly holding their own.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
CHANGING TO AMERICAN REGIS
 TRY.

The opening Of American registry to. foreign ships under more attrac- tive terms than formerly existed was done for the benefit of American com merce. In view of the existing war and the opportunity which was offered by this act to escape from the penalty which would be exacted from vessels of the belliserent nations complications were anticipated and have followed. The trouble over the Robert Dollar changing it's flag. which resulted in it's resumption of British coiors has now been. followed by the seizure of the tank steamer Brindflla, by Brit ish ship. Thus Is a test case. prom ised at an early date.
 Just what it will avail if it is shown that the transfer was bona hde one is uncertain for while such may be the facts it is also likely that but for the transfer the tanker would not have been open for business, but would have been tied up in some port until it could engage in trafac without becom- ing subject to capture. It is likely to be the British claim that such a trans action is an act of dodging for the transfer makes the investment in the vessel active, which would not have been possible without risk of seizure otherwise.
 The questions involved give prom ise of an interesting contention before the Halifax prize court. It is well that there should be some deternlina- tion of the facts as early as possible for the guidance of other transfers affecting vessels of nations engaged in the war as well as American com merce.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
DUTY OF EVERY VOTER,

In every section of the state there is, g. duty which lies before the voters in the coming election. It is 8 time when the democrats are doing their utmost to secure the endorsement from the people of the manner in which they have carried on the national gov erhment during the present admins tration. It is fresh in the minds of everyone what changes and havoc they have wrought in the economic system of the country so that instead of tho continuance of the good bus mess conditions which they found there has followed a period of great uncertainty, poor business and deplor- able conditions.
 The most strenuous kind of efforts are being made to attribute all such to the war, but those conditions had begun long before the war broke out or was dreamed of. It is not going to be possible to hoodwink the people into the belief that war in Europe has done all this. The war has caused its aggravations, but the great harm was done when the firm business founda- tion of the country was undermined by the putting into operation of the democratic policies and theories.
 Thus it becomes the duty of every voter to carefully consider and uphold the demands and interests of this sec- tion of the country. The best inter ests of Connecticut lie not in the en- dorsenent of democratic destruction such deserves to be condemned before worse conditions prevail-but in the support and encouragement of repub- lfcan principles which have been re- sponsible for this country's greatest achievements and such are obtainable only. through the election of republican candidates.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
REPUBLICAN, TICKET.

. United States Senator FRANK B. BRANDEGEE. New Lon i don.
 Governor. MARCUS H. HoLCoMB. Southington. {. Lieutenant Governor. ELBTORD B. WILSON, Bridgeport ' State Secretary. EHARLES D. BURNES, Greenwich . State Treasurer NREDERICK S. CHAMBERLAIN. New Comptroller. NORRIS c. WEBSTER Harwinton. : Attorney General 7 Representative in Congress Second District-RICHARD P. FREE MAN, New London. State Senators. H-LUcIUs E. WILTON New Lon A-JoHN H. BARNES. Norwich. 2o-BENJAMIN H. HEWITT, Stontng- 2s-JoHN M. rArEM. Eastford. 2s-CHARLEs O. THOMPSON. Pom ss-c. DENNIsoN rALcorr, Vernon.
 Sheriffss New London County-SIDNEY A. BROWN, New London. Windham County CHARLES A.
 GATES, Windham. Tolland-FRED O. vINTON, Mansfield. Judge of Probate. NELSON J. AYLING, Norwich Representatives
 ALBERT J. BAILEY, JOSEPH H. HENDERSON
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

What girlT' almost sitting up in his amazement.
 Don't know who she is; but sakes alivei I never saw anything like her modern way of doing thingsi"
 Where is she? Tell her to come here.
 Quickly his mind worked backward and he thought of Myra and wondered if it could be she that had saved his life.
 Now that her great work was over the girl trembled when she approached the side of the sick man. He graspeo her hand.
 ."You did it. and for me. when hated you sol"
 T did it for you and for Sam," she answered gently.
 "Tell Sam that shall never hate women doctors again; you go tell him .
 "An right. I'll tell him." she called back softly, as the man dropped into quieting sleep.-Boston Record.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

sihle for those who can swim to keep atioat for any great length of time, but with the aid of the buoyant de- vice great help will be given to the saving of life. even though war Is on in earnest and appalling losses can be expected to accompany it.
 The swimming collar like the install lation of floats and small boats which can be quickly hoated is provision which the very nature of the service that the men are called upon to ren- der and the danger which they must encounter call for.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

And yet October is the month par excellence of the pedestrian. It is the
 month of invigorating winds and firm
 footing; the month of the years last call to the open before the snow cur tain is dropped Some men, carrying guns, and pretending to kill things, go forth in answer to October's call. Others go forth without guns, and are contented to observe the beauty of the days without marrying them. A sweat
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

The Board of Trade seeks to arouse Hartford to a realization of the fact that even the comparatively small amount which this city loses annual 1y is too much and could be lessened Tn view of the fact that New England underwriters are about to put into effect new rates which will make fire insurance cost somewhat more, the discussion takes on an added time liness-Hartford Post.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
RUSSIAN PROHIBITION.

For others than the temperance workers there is much interest in the position which has been taken by the czar of Russia relative to prohibition. His declaration in behalf of permanent prohibition marks an unexpected ad- vance fin the cause despite the pre- vious attention which the world had been giving to the progress of the movement there. First prohibition was declared until the first of Octo- Der. Subsequently it was extended un- til the end of the war and now it is announced to be g. permanent thing.
 In Russia, differing from most coun- tries the sale of liquor is q govern ment monopoly. It is stated that the revenue derived from the sale of vodka amounts to the sizeable sum of S50o,- 000,o00. The control therefore of its sale and the determination as to whether liquor shall be sold or not rests with the government. Recog- nizing that in time of war one of the greatest demands Is national sobriety, one of the early acts was.the order of prohibition and the cutting off of this source of hig revenue. It was done for the betterment of the people and the country. That the operation of the order has brought about the desired results is indicated by the latest an- nouncement from the czar presumably upon the ground that if it is good thing during war it should be equally so during peace, but Russia hasn't always manifested SO much concern for it's people.
 However, Russia has made a num- Der of important promises since war was declared and the world is going to give it close attention as it puts them into operation. Russia has a chance to do some teaching.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

When Roumania holds up the Ger man munitions of war bound for Tur- Key there can be little doubt what the feeling Of that country is II doesn't intend to hand Turkey any, thlng which may later be used to strike back with
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22
OTHER VIEW POINTS

The business of war is to kill. Meth ods do not count. It is the rage of barbarism. and the submarine and the airship are fitting opponents of the savage and cowardly features of mu- tual assassination.-BriSto Press.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

war while it lasts may serve the same purpose as protection. but that means an uncertain duration and what the country needs is certainty for the establishment of confidence and such IS to be obtained only by supporting republican principles and candidates.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

In spite of his ability to discover that the country had prospered as the re- suit of the workings of the Underwood tariff, even President Wilson could find nothing to say in defense of the record Of the Democratic Congress for ex- travagance in expenditures.-Bridg port Standard.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

If as declared Czar Nicholas has said that Russia will never manufacture or sell alcoholic liquors again, he is the logical leader of the prohibition party in Europe.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

In many of the states members of the prosressives are seeing the op- portunity to make amends for the harm which they did two years ago and they are doing it by returning to the republican party. It is a justified act.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

The country is anxiously waiting Tor Representative Underwood's reply to the president. Surely there should De some expression in behalf of what the chief executive has done.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

There couldn't be a finer fall for the ultimate consumers to enter upon the task of eating barrel of apples to help out the producer.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

The man on the corner says: Some men are born politicians, some have politics thrust upon them and others acquire campaign handshake.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

The Germans may have battered down the Antwerp Qualifications but they haven't knocked the fight out of the Belgians.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

Army and navy officials are having more trouble over that Army Navy football game than as if 1t was a campaign against Mexico.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-10-22

The outcome of the Mexican peace conference will be in doubt until ad- tournment Is taken.