davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08
STYLES Launched on the Riviera This Winter Will Dominate
the World of Dress Next Spring and Summer Exagger
ated Decoletage Feature of the CorsagesNew
Tunics Herald Revival of the Crinoline

agantly trimmed type among all ths
latest glorlfied watches.
The open frames are made up of
pierced platinum studded with germs and
platinum wirework on which the gems
are threaded. like beads, in closely strung
rows or scattered As dewdrops on cob
web. The gemed borders reach out be-
yond the watches, sometimes as much as
an inch, a half inch frame being per-
haps the favorite depth.
One watch measuring only an inch
across has frame half an inch In width.
1t is encrusted with diamonds of re-
markable shapes. and in the frame are
set seven large pearls that appear to be
floating In space. so lightly and cleverly
are they mounted.
The designs of these frames show
many dainty patternings in scal1ops and
fittings, following the shape of the watch
on the inside but varying to suit the
designers fancy on the outer edges. A
thin model round watch is finished with
square edged frame: one frame il
fiuled so that there is a fascinating un-
duiation In the platinum wirework. while
another has a border with concave lines
terminating in four points formed of
clusters of diamonds.
Two unusual bordered shapes are the
triangle and the hexagon. The frame on
each of these follows the symmetrical
contour of the watch it encloses and. the
faces OF the watches being round, small
corners are left which are filled in with
gems.
The festooned watch comes In an end
less variety of designs Each watch. in
fact, is made from its individual dra wing
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08

plan. The hanging gems that trim them
are platinum bound with beaded wire
millegrain, it Is called, from its minute
size. The tassels or fringes are some
times two inches long, twice as long as
the watches which they decorate. They
are formed of strings of delicate pearls,
tiny brilliants or the colored gems. en-
eralds, sapphires, rubles. precious opals.
amethysts and topazes swing in clusters
from the lower edge of the watch.
An especially handsome pendant
watch has a silver gray enamelied case
with an applique motif in diamonds in
the centre. This motif Is repeated three
times in the festoon work border of
small diamonds finishes the enamel. and
diamonds and pearls drop in little prisms
for three inches below the watch case
These watches make beautiful neck
lace pendants. The effect. is enhanced
by the sautoir chains on which they are
hung A sautoir is one of those neck
chains with an extra. straight piece
between the circle of chain and the
pendant; generally there are matching
plaque pendants attached.
The ornament on the sautoir which is
placed at the junction of the straight strip
and the neck circle matches the decora-
ton on the watch case and the chain
follows the color scheme of the watch
An example of such a jewel has an or
nament of large diamonds on the sautor
copying the diamond motif on the watch
The sautoir chain is made up of three
rows Of gems, A row of enseralds be-
tween two rows of diamonds. carrying
out the idea in the watch for the case
is completely encrusted with emeralds
and trimmed by a fringe of flashing
diamonds and emerald drops.
Such pendant watches have super
seeded the wrist watch which was, at
best, nothing more than prosaic little
object made for use first and adorn-
ment afterward, The wrist watch could
not be worn correctly at formal func-
tons while the pendant watch is an ex-
ceedngiy dressy affair.
But it is not alone the pendant that
has ousted the bracelet watch from its
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08
. COMFORT In TRAVELLING.

~ HE woman who knows how to
travel in comfort is many strides
ahead of the one who carries
only the things actually needed. The
comfort loving woman includes in her
travelling outfit a small box in which
repose tea caddy with her fayoritO
blend of tea, a silver tea ball. an alcohol
lamp and miniature kettle. a cup and
silver spoon and q few Jumps Of sugar
and d lemon. She is thus well equipped
for enjoying her accustomed refresh-
nent Of O'Clock tea.
a small leather portfolio she also caf-
ries In 1t are a supply of her own
writing paper, envelopes, stamps and Z
style pen.
For short trips the little week end
cases are much in favor They are prac-
teal and compact and can easily bs
made at small cost in the following
manner
Cut into the shape Of an envelope
when opened out piece of prettiIy
Powered mercerizcd goods of any de-
sired size, Duplicate this In thin rub
Der sheeting which is used as lining-
Place the wrong sides of the materials
together first hasting around the edges
So that the goods will not slip when
being stitched Next bind the edges all
around with very narrow fancy white
braid stitch braid also around the in-s
side In the middle OF the case. This
allows Tho case to fold easier Sew on
little strips of The material for holding
a guest cake of soap, tooth brush. tooth
powder. small box OF face powder &c.
The completed case Is securely held to-
gether by aFsnap hook and eye and ocs
cupies but small space in the handbag
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08
INCH SQUARE WATCHES GEM
COVERED.

A PPLIQUE motifs in diamonds. en-
a eralds, sapphires and ruhies on
enamelled grounds ornament the
latest caprice in watches Gems. gems
and still more gems are added to the
already handsome enamelled cases, until
the watch proper sinks to . mere trifie
under its heavy load Of jewels.
A marquise diamond Is set perpen-
dicularly on one OF these pendant
watches, with surrounding flower
motif in brilliants raised above a back
ground Of old blue enamel. The play
OF light and shade and the glowing blue
give to the jewel exceeding richness.
A deep violet colored case. on which
rays of sunburst engraving heighten
the simmer Of the enamel, 10 set with
amethysts and pearls and overlaid with
clusters OF very small hriIliants This
watch II 4 graceful oval in shape, one
OF the favorites among the new and
odd patterns.
There are small square cases, and
very narrow oblongs to be seen this
season. slim watches and round ones
that are thicker but extremely small.
The square watches are dainty little
Affairs hidden, most of them, behind
gorgeous gems. Diamonds and plati-
mum wire, In a checkerboard pattern.
decorate one Of these square inch
watches--they measure IN inch. no
more-on EACH edge. Another Ii d solid
square inch Of brilliAnts with i pearl
added here and there to top them on.
Two new features In pendant watch
designs will appeal strongly to those
whose quest Ii ever for the novel In
Jewels One ID the addition Of an OPEN
work frame to the watch edge, and the
other u the hanging kelnfned festoons
which m attached ~ I'M MQ4t sxtrsv-
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08
.-----..-...3..-
NY CLAUDE CHERYs.

TT Is undeniahle that Monte Carlo is
are rather fond OF saying that 1t
contains one charm. and one charm
only. the famous Casino. But that is
absurd Certainly 1t Is banal.
II one never entered the doors of
tho great Casino one might still regard
Monte Carlo as the most lovely and at
traetive spot in Europe. for 1t is rich
In natural beauties and It Is possessed
sof climate which Is without rival.
AT the present moment, when Paris
and London gro covered with snow and
surrounded by foEs. We down here In
Monte Carlo are basking in SUNSHINE,
We are enjoying sapphire skies and
cobalt seas; we are taking delight In
fresh sea breezes and in the scent of
mimosa and orange blossom. In short
we are In the embrace OF spring.
The mornings are glorious. as warm
rs early summer. The evenings are
still chilly. but picturesque wrap coats
make It possible to brave the night air
without fear. There is musicsin the
brilliant restaurants and gay laughter
In the streets. All the world seems
happy and why need we be concerned
D II large sums OF money are lost across
the crowded tables in those strangely
silent Casino rooms?
The contrast between Monte Carlo
and such fashionable seaside resorts
an Biarritz and San Sebastian is very
great. 1t is not that the latter are less
smart or less frequented it is that
they are absolutely different. Biarritz,
for example, is an extraordinarily natu-
raj. breezy watering place. II Is a re-
sort where one meets the smartest
society women Of Paris, London and
New York at certain seasons OF the
year, but Biarritx ID essentially a
tSaAceeA .suit resort. white Monte Carlo
II ~. dressy rs Paris itself Id full sea-
aoa
IN 13iarritx the smart swornenwear SEN
ssiA4 SHOES with Cuban heels when walk
sinek M the Grsnde PLACE, They wear
exquisite but severely plain tailored suits
slM the morning and slightly lass severe
1iti "a the afternoon. r. Il only at night
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08
with skunk

FOR the casino that Biarritz wakes up 60
gorgeous gowns and elaborate wraps.
Bus at Monte Carlo the most dainty and
fragile gowns look correct at almost any
hour OF the day. / do not mean to say
that FOR the early footing" on the Ca
sino terrace tailored suits are not the
right thing. for of course they are; but
at the same time a smart little dress In
supple white cloth, or even In dull silk,
would be equally correct In word,
| Biarritz-San Sebastian also, but in a
less degree-may be said to be a natural
PLACE, while Monte Carlo. in some subtle
way, suggests the stage. In this respect
1: resembles Trouvilie,
Fer those who wish In the most de-
! iightfga surroundings tc. study the early
spring fashions Monts Carlo Is the one
ard only place. All the charming styles
which will later delight Paris are
launched here In the months Of Fehru-
airy and Marcs. Above all things 1t is
here that the 'ligneH of the summer sea-
son is decided And have to report
that the ''iigne" OF this present year will
be very charming, If trifie audacious.
It will be in many cases distinctly PIC
turesQue.
4H Zig wv SActCitts WliiCI dtti SCnA-
ing this week have shown two different
outlines--each one of these viii be in
full flood of favor when the Paris sea-
son opens In one case you have the
exaggeratedly long. slender silhouette
which Nine. Henri Letellier has made so
popular In Paris. the clinging, fragile
style Of dress which suggests an ultra
feminine personality and which is so en-
chanting when exploited by just the
right woman.
The gown shown in the sketch to which
l am now referring was worn by very
famous Partisan beauty at an afternoon
concert given in the private rooms at the
Casino. i encountered the wearer Of the
gown as she WIS pausing moment on
the broad terrace to get breath OF sea
air before gliding into the hall OF the
Hotel de Paris. across the road. She
was standing near one Of the marble
busts which decorate the terrace and
there was an effective background Of
palms. ] made lightning sketch Of one
Of the loveliest afternoon gowns I have
seen this year. much to the amusement
Of the wearer Of the costume.
The little clinging skirt was composed
OF sapphire blue chiffon velvet and the
pleated tanlc, which reached almost to
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08

the knees, was In bleu mutt silk muslin
decorated with pale gold roses worked
in raised threads. The corsage was ex-
aggeratedly decollete. as are ali the new
corsagcs OF afternoon dresses. and an
exquisite ermine cape was drawn tightly
round the shoulders and fastened in front
with an immense pale gold rose. With
this costume high toque in hleu mutt
velvet was worn--two black mounts
jutted out audaciousiy at the sides.
The manner in which the ermine cape
was arranged was admirable. The fur
was evidently supple as chiffon and the
fringe Of tiny black tails made an effect
i've finish at the border.
wish to draw special attention to two
features in this gown-to the long pleated
tunic and to the corsage. which was
opened In q generous v front. These
uitraiong tunics. composed OF crepe de
chine or silk muslin, will be leading
feature of the summer season They
are pleated In various ways Sometimes
fine accordion pleats are used. some
times the old fashioned sun ray method
Is adopted; sometimes the supple ma
teriais are simply pleated by hand. In
almost all cases these tunics reach 10
the knee line; in all cases they are full
at the waist. To tall women such tunics
as these are eminentIy becoming, but
they have an unpleasant way OF cutting
up short figure: for the latter It is bet
ter to keep to the regular Persian tunic
"ligne." the bunchy little garment which
is cut short half way between waist and
knees.
As to the afternoon corsages which
are made of such transparent stuffs as
chiffon or silk yelling and cut down tn !
v over the bust. one can only say that
the woman who wishes to be In the fash
ion this year will have to take risks. It
seems as though kindly Providence
takes special care Of delicate women
who think nothing Of venturing out In
midwinter wearing evening shoes and
semi-evening gowns. 1t II q curious
fashion but none tthe Less popular for
that. And this fancy for wearing eve-
ming garments in the daytime ID grow
ing stronger and stronger. We shall ana
It very much In evidence when we ret
back to Paris for the season which opens
IN April.
Before leaving the subject Of this par
ticular drawing ! must record the fact
that sapphire blue, especially In chiffon
velvet y one of the most fashionable
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-02-08
New Fashions Shown at Monte Carlo Are
Clingng, Fragile and Ultra Feminine

place Of honor; the ring watch ana
many other models hold the attention.
of the fasilionabiy gowned. There aEe
chatelaine watches to hang from tho
vanity chain and a watch to set In tho
card case with hands and numerals ct
gold to match the engine turned gold
OF the case.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-01-27

Either developments In the market for
the stock reacting upon the present state
OF speculative sentiment or the artificial
circulation of tips may he responsible
for 1t but the fact remains that there is
talk everywhere Of an impending big
move In Reading. Some believe that the
obvious weakness OF the stock, plus the
prevalence OF this bull Tip" suggests more
powerfully than anything else that i'm
portant liquidation has Just been accom-
plished. but the type OF speculator In
Reading doesn't deal In the obvious he
IL Infinitely more subtle. The common
inference drawn from the recent extraor-
binary market In Reading is that a trans
fer has been effected between two impor-
tant speculative interests Of IL huge block
Of stock. How ridiculous II would be to
suppose that the important interests load
ing up with the stock thus sold. whether
for the account OF railroad or not.
would do 30 without some very definite
idea not only Of It's intrinsic value but or
some place where they could put It. In
other words, the stock has gone Into tho
possession OF stronger people. who II they
dispose Of II at all will not do ~ at
anything like the present level. As near
as can be this appears to be the line or
argument for rise IN Reading. And
that In why TO the ordinary observer
"reading" the fluctuations In Reading has
seemed to be something requiring an IN
tlmato knowledge Of the fourth dimen-
sion.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-01-27
SETTLEMENT HALTS
THELONDON MARKET
Us approach Restricts Oper.
atoms in tho Specu-
lative Issues.
CONSOLS CLOSE STRONG
Americans Irregular, but In
clined to Hold Their
Prices.
'oNsOLs CLOSE STRONG

LoApoS, Jan. 2s.--The approach Of the
settlement restricted operations in the
more speculative issues In the stock mar
se, hero to-day. Consols and high Grade
investment securities were strong. how
o,er. The f2.O0o,00O 4 per cent Indian
railway loan. the 100000 preferred
.to,s issue Of tho Philadelphia Company
and a small Chilean issue were heavily
ovcrsubscribed.
Consols closed u higher ut "a for
money and "a for account. Discount rates
,ere weak and money was easy.
Home rails were weak owing to rcAlis-
ing. and mining shares were depressed.
Kailirs were, however. strong. Rio Tintos
declined. Foreigners were narrow.
Americans were irregular. but inclined
10 hold their prices. United States Steel
Was strong, and led the list. closing u In
advance of the opening. Southern Rail-
vay was firm and the inactive issues
we're higher. Several OF the favoriates,
however. made slight reactions. Ca
madam Pacific was weak
PARIS. Jan 26.--Thc Bourse closed firm
to-day after a heavy opening. Rentes
closed t7i, centimes lower at So francs
STA centimes.
BERLIN, Jan 36.-The tone Of the
pocrse to-day was weak.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-01-27
The Day Of Rest.

The force Of precedent II nothing else
Ia all in favor of Il reaction in the stock
market to-day. The oldest traditions rule
that every well behaved bull market shall
witness a brief squirt OF activity and
strength on Monday followed by recedinR
prices on Tuesday. IL would be interest
age Of shrewd spectators still cling to
this opinion. Probably quito n number OF
people have looked confidently for such n
programm. to be carried out this week
and will accept II as proof positive OF the
existence of n real bull market If IL is
carried out. Superstition or not there IA
some real basis for allowing for certain
factors which under certain circumstances
may bring about just this kind of move
ment At times when there II keen
public interest In the market the COM
mission brokers' mail In heaviest on Mon-
days and the execution Of these over tho
week end accumulated orders naturally
makes for higher prices. other things
treing equal. Some people think that only
the outside public reads the financial
pages of the Sunday newspapers. or at
least that the day Of rest Is reserved
to mature consideration Of stock market
affairs. At any rate the odd lot people
will tell you that the majority of their
orders are received in the early part of
the week and that the further from New
York the customer II situated the later
In the week his order will arrive. Thus
, an order from Butte Mon. may arrive on
Thursday, but II Will De found to have
been mailed Sunday.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-01-27
DAIRY PRODUCTS MARKET.

BUTTER. invoices indicate FIRE. arrivals
for the week. and most receivers YESTERDAY
kept their stores a. clean as possible so as
not to be caught IN another slump. Most
buyers are operating only for their imm.-
a a., n ,o ."G are sn'"f ;'ie s sn.aa ="
bar-ly steady. Process IL easier. with fac
tory quiet. Packing stock was isc on
Prices folIo~; Creamery extras, 3olR ~ 8lc.:
Arsts, Rsa aor: seconds. % a SIC. hold, .S'
'ras, 80 . ale. nrsts, asa-s'sc,, stat. dairy,
eNlra', ga -ir., "rsts, 2an23bc; ladle-.
h"ld, 2c's zee: ,irrcnt nrsts, .lis 20,
backing stock; srrrent make NO = soh
CHEEsE.-wh"e mllks are nrm. with
receipts lish, hIsh grade we'll cured skim.
uulet Prices are; state. held special. la.
nisc average, fancy. il7r"i7fc;,;, under
Ia; skins. held, specials. is q i+c; held
choice, llTl2lsC,. skins, fresh goos to
choi -, loE Z, II 40, poor to fair, "a ioe.
augmented hy 1881 l2O dozen cases from
Europe. Mouerste domestic supplies are IN
stock on hand and the market was I'M
changed With slightly hr'ner tone on
me stock Was held nrm az ,hers is It'll. Of
this I" be had, Nearby whites hrmer on
ag9a.l Of rnt ianr MS. of M,
in especially good demand. Prices follow;
Fresh gathered extras, ahn ssc.; extra iirsts,
age; PENNSYLVANIA and nearby hennery
whites Hne to fancy, Ssd+cc.. gathered
whites, hne 20 finest, rs q sec; state, Penn
sylvania and nearby hennery browns asa
36c. brown and mixed colors. s3d3tc..
refrigerator frs,s, aoIHslo, seconds, 2e9
fresh isq dozen cases fair to prime 2Sa
3sy refrigerator, poor I" good, 90 n?1c.
LIVE POtLTRY.-Wlth receipts In sight
about ITO oRTs for the week trading opened
fair with ~ s'eay demand for fowls No
quotations were effected. Receipts were
twenty cars Western, two south western. and
"a few scattering coops by express. About
thlrtN eight cars are on track under limits
DRESSED POULTRY Fresh turkeys Rrs
In better demand and hrmer. Most of the
offerings are large and COARSE. Fancy roast
ing chickens IN llsht supply and frm. ON
stock dun and Irregular, Fowls In liberal
supply but slow on heavy stock Medium
grades steady. Old ROSTERS IN moderate
supply and steady Ducks and geese dull
Nearby squads unchanged Quotations are;
Turkeys Western dry picked, average best.
moro; Western scalded. fancy. use +:
Ohio aud Michisan. ebc,; Texas average
best dry, picked. a2Ec,: philadelphia
broilers - az lbs each, soc: box packed
Western fowls, dozen In box. so lbs and
over lsc.: under 80 lbs, 40: old roosters,
isNo.; squads, prime white, 10 lbs, TO
dozen, per dozen, 81 80; o lbs, sb 6a6I
lbs, ts759la; darn ais, uuineas spring.
Sh rs 70 Ss,r pr ga,r o. !tGM,2t caron..
g'e,; Western siips $4,000.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-01-27
THE MISCELLANEOUS MARKETS.
COn~e Prices Close Lower, With
Trading Very Dull.

Coffee prices closed IL to IA points
lower for the active positions yesterday
on sales OF but about $4,000 bags. Most
Of the sales were In the September and
May positions. Prices at the last sales
we're ut the low for the day. although the
range was narrow.
The market opened easier on the cables,
but trade throughout the session was
very dull. which was explained in some
quarters by the large supply of coffee
which the trade now has on hand
Warehouse deliveries Of Brazilian coffee
in New York and New Orleans last week
amounted TO l55.93s bags, against a.
707 bags the previous week and 142.S45
for the corresponding week last year
Besides this afioats for the United States
at present are $4,000 bags. against ST.
900 q year ago, OF the total amount
ahoat 100000 bags were shipped from
Santos.
The Havre market opened \ to a r..
lower and closed y to fr. net lower.
Hamburg started y to Y pfe. lower
and closed .. to 1 pfg. net lower. Rio
No. was 12J re!s higher at 5s315. At
santos No. was unchanged at 5s7b0.
while No. I there was also unchanged
at 5s05O. Flo and santos receipts to-
tailed $4,000 bags against $1,000 last
year. Sac Pauo had 2l.000 bags. against
10000, and Jundiahy 5000 bags. agains,
5000.
Brip