Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-09-19

! frame until the frame is filled up al
most as high as the level of the
ground outside. Next, as much of
the poorer soil as is required may
ba thrown in around the outside Of
the frame, and banked up a few
inches high against the frame. Last
ly, the sashes are placed on the
frame, and it is ready for use.
Autumn Work in CoIdframes.
After the soil has settled a few
days in the frame, and has been
raked level and fine, some seeds may
be sown, this month, in regular rows
north and south, just far enough
apart to allow cultivation between
them with a very narrow garden tool.
The list of seeds comprises lettuce.
early cabbage and cauliflower, pars-
ley, radish, pansies forget-me- nots
and English daisies. A row or two of
each will give quite enough plants for
home use, if the seeds are sown
rather thickly. The radish, several
rows of which may be sown, will be
ready for the table in November
The other vegetable and towering
plants may be left to winter in the
seed rows, but much better results
are obtained by transplanting at
least part of these seedlings as soon
as large enough to handle into an
other part of the cold frame an inch
or two apart, thus thinning out the
seed rows and giving the remaining
plants in these more room to grow
In the spring these cold frame plants,
which will be harder and stockier
than greenhouse-raised plants, may
be transplanted into the open gar
den. Some of the larger lettuce plants
from the seed rows set out about four
inches apart will give head lettuce
for Thanksgiving. Parsley, celery
leeks, chives and few large
onion bulbs taken up from the open
garden and set out rather closely in
the frame will afford salad and soup
green's all winter. A dozen or two each
of strong violet plants of the double
variety, Marie Louise, or, better still,
the free-fiowering single variety,
Princess of Wales, and an equal num-
Der of strong pansy plants of choice
varieties, set about five inches apart
will give some pretty blooms in very
late autumn and many in early
spring.
Covering the cold frame sashes
with straw or felt mats, such as may
be bought at seed stores, will be nee
essary nights and very cold days dur
ing freezing winter weather, and
banking up the frames on the out
side with leaves or horse manure will
keep out the frost Ventilation should
be given between the hours of 10 and
o'clock when an outside thermometer
marks fifty or more degrees above
zero, by sliding down the sashes.
Converting tho CoIdframes Into Pit or
Hotbed.
When the soil Is being placed in
the coldframe at the time of build
ing, it may be left out from under
one sash, and a north and-south par
tition of boards put in as high as the
soil in the rest of the frame, or even
as the sash, and this part be used
as pit for wintering over potted
plants plunged in the bottom soil
of this pit, such as azaleas, fuchsias.
antirrhinums, geraniums, carnations,
pinks, wallf1owers, pentstemons and
stock gilliflowers. After these plants
are removed in early spring this pit
may be converted into a hotbed by
putting into 1t fresh horse manure 20
the depth of about eighteen inches.
when stamped down, and above it
about six inches of finely sifted soil.
In this lettuce and radish NAV be
forced and seeds, such as tomato.
pepper, eggplant, celery, etc., be sown
for later transplanting into the
garden.
Much profitable and pleasurable
gardening may be done in coldframes.
pits and hotbeds alone, where thers
is no room for an open-air garden.