The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-06-21
PARIS. June IL.

| ln-hNH INV 'flhIu DUCHESS Nl0ulmir,
and she has taken the opportunity to
give extensive orders to the Partisan
dressmakers and to her favorlte
! ieweler whose shop Is in the Rue
!, Royalc.
II An attractive set. which consisted Of
long chain, "A belt buckle n parasol
! candle and waistcoat buttons. was made
!. Of black enamel inset with seed pearls
and diamonds. IL was the Grand
Duchess cyril and her sister, the Crown
Princess uf Runania. who first intro
duced this idea OF Jewelled sets to be
worn with afternoon gowns. and the
notion is specially artistic one. The
black enamel ornaments are extraor-
dInarily effective. and as the Grand
Duchess Is stlll In mourning for her
father-ia-law they will show up
splendidly against a background Of
black chiffon or taffeta. I also saw
some lovely hair combs made OF filigree
silver and encrusted with brilliants
which had been ordered by the same
royal lady. and waist belt fixings In
dark purple enamel traced over with
silver and seed pearls.
M Just before the death OF the Grand
Duke Vladimir his wife ordered In
paris one OF the most magnificent dog
collars ever made in the French capital.
| Il was entirely composed OF picked
diamonds and the stones were arranged
in loose chains held together by bars
Of larger damonss after the manner
Of pearl collars. | once saw the owner
NJ this gorgeous necklace wear II at the
Il Opera and the effect was dazzling.
iii The very latest style of hairdressing
Nor the evening Is so simple and yet so
y 'dl.tingulshed that 1t puts all other
cultures TO shame. The hair IL slightly
waved. then II IL drawn back from the
forehead and folded round the head at
me back rather high up. a diamond
comb Is placed in the hair at one side
Near the front and kiss curls are drawn
forward over the ears.
Needless to say this severe style Is
irving TO any but really beautiful and
distinguished women, but when 1t can
70 adopted II is admirable. on subscrip-
ion nights at the Russian ballet and al
tho Opera some OF the most notable
members OF exclusive society in Paris
appear with their hair dressed in this
way and they are universally admired
We have had long spell OF fantastic
for simplicity, costly simplicity 1t mus,
be confessed, for the pins or combs
worn with the style OF heacdress have
lust described must be beautiful and
uncommon. Very few really smart
women have their hair deliberately
waved now. Fashion demands that the
twists and curls shall look quite nat
ural.
! The Parisiennes seem TO have gone
| crazy over peacock feathers, and In all
\ colors. This is an extraordinary fashion
for the majority OF women cherish a
mperstitlous feeling against wearing
feathers Of this description. Neverthe-
less the rage continues. Pure white
peacock feathers are the "dernier crf'
IN Paris. They are freely used on hats
and toques, and they also appear In
y surprising quantities at the Opera and
n all the smart theatres in the guse OF
H.isir ornaments.
Il is a curious fact that one sees far
more dyed or bleached peacock feathers
than those in the natural tints. y
pretty actress who is a prominent mem
lS,er Of the Gymnase company assured
/me that peacock feathers were only
unlucky in their natural state. she
was convinced that all the mischief was
taken out OF them when they passed
through the dyer's hands. This Is q
curious theory, but I imagine that there
must be something in 1t because OF the
number Of dyed feathers one sees at the
present moment. For any one who Is
quite free from superstition pure white
chip hat trimmed with high white eye
feathers is undoubtedly attractive.
II Far more artistic and sensible is the
present passion for ostrich feathers,
curled and uncurled. For several sea-
ysons the Partisan miliners refused to
\ have anything to do with ostrich feath-
ers They said they were too Eng
lsh and wanting in chic. Instead OF
ostrich feathers they used quantities OF
aIgrettes and paradise birds for hat
trimmings.
Then came straight from the United
States the vehement protest against the
use OF aigrettes and ospreys. For a
moment the Paris milliners refused to
listen to this protest. but they found
themselves forced to give way. Now
he graceful ostrich feather has again
IEVaken possession OF its rightful throne
and It has brought in its train the ever
welcome picture hat.
~ But though picture hats are once
more fashionable we still have charm
Ing "petits chapeaux." Two excellent
models Of this order are reproduced this
week. No. is Reboux hat In oyster
white satin with a clever trimming OF
black and white birds.
vi Some black velvet bows appear under
me wings OF these birds, and the model
would be ideal II worn with a smart
tailored suit in navy serge or taffeta
iou will notice that one OF the new
Louis XIV. neck ribbons is shown. These
RIBBONS are In black or midnight blue
velvet and the Louis XIV. bow is tied d.
recuy in front. Very often handsome
pear ornament OF antique design Is
placed In the middle of the bow.
Inc second hat IL one of Nine
earher's creations. It is in desert dawn
PINK chip, with full crown Of bleu
NUT velvet. This crown is surrounded
py large roses made OF shot chiffon
vNhlch show subtle tints of blue, rose
anu silver. The mounts are made OF
hae horsehair which has been treated
win some metallic preparation. In
~ mo shade these mounts seem the same
'olor AS the velvet crown, but under
snrong light they give out cleans OF
duh silver.