Lincoln County leader. [volume] (Toledo, Lincoln County, Or.) 1893-1987, 1914-10-02

ioHB cases IN Wnlch the PerSianS pack
their dead. The golden dome OF the
great Mosque OF Hussein-the goal for
which many Of these pilgrims had
marched for months-now shone plain
ly In the afternoon sun but a few
miles ahead. Beside 1t glistened the
eilded minarets. rising like light
houses from the sea OF green date
palms which surrounds the city. As
we thundered Into town, making the
nnal few rods at great spurt OF
speed, was struck by the unusual
wldth OF the streets. In comparison
with the narrow, alley-like passages
which serve as streets In most mud
towns in Turkish Arabia, Kerbela
seemed city of boulevards. found
hospitality with the Turkish officers
doing garrison duty at Kerbela, who
treated me with the kindly courtesy
so common to all Ottoman military Of
hcials. They gave me zaptiehs for
seeing Kerbela" next day.
Kerbela, like Paris, sucks life from
the tourist horde - except that pil.
grims come to Kerbela mainly to pray
or bury their dead, and go to Paris
mostly for other things. The town is
distinctly Persian, though many Shias
from India also make It their home.
or its 10000 permanent inhabitants.
fully 10000 are Shias. Kerbela is
known TO natives as Meshed Hussein,
because the sacred tomb Of the mar.
tyred Husseln. son OF All. brother OF
the Prophet OF Mahomet, is located
here.
In all the world are few mosques
perhaps none-so striking. so mystic,
and so rich in treasure as this great
gold-domed temple OF Hussein. Gold.
en- plates cover the great dome and
the six mlnarets Of the magnificent
structure; in the dark. underground
treasure-vaults OF the gorgeous, forbid.
den edifice is stored wealth OF fabu-
lous value. Its true enormity was
brought to light only in recent years.
when the shah Of Persia made the hal,
and the stored-up wealth was revealed
TO his astonlshed gaze by the jealous
Shia keepers. For ages, be Il known.
Indian princes. shahs and sultans of
the Shla faith have made precious
flfts to the temples at Kerbela and
Nedjef. pouring into these vaults q
priceless stream OF jewels. gold and
plate.
Though few foreigners have ever Wis.
tied Kerbela, the Shias showed little
resentment as wandered through the
crowded bazars. accompanied by my
escort OF armed zaptlehs. II was only
when we halted near the great mosque
OF Hussein All that heard words OF
abuse hurled at the infidel. and the
guards advised that we tarry not. So
| had to be content with n mere
glimpse OF the rich facade OF the great
building, caught in passing.
Other structures. mean and hud.
died. crowd the mosque so closely
that, with its own high wall, Il is all
but Invisible to those who pass with.
out. People spat. and cursed my re.
hbioh' huu icb u Nibe 10 20 away
from the neighborhood Of the mosque.
From the roof Of building some dis.
tance away | finally got a good view
OF the golden dome and the graceful,
glistenlng minarets.
Sacred storks nest on the roof Of the
mosque. and keep motionless vigil
from the lofty mlnarets. And as the
lusty ROSTERS rouse the sleeping Kan.
san TO his daily task. so these storks
rattle their peculiar alarm at dawn to
tell all Kerbela that It's time to wake
and pray. The noise they make
swapping their long bills rapidly
sounds like n small boy dragging a
lath over picket fence.