New-York tribune., 1914-11-17
Even POiret WIFI
Soon Open. Says
Dressmaker's
Represen-
tative.

Joy over American lah"'V'S'
- for Paris still persists. And her
official representative here-that is,
the representative of her dressmakers
and modistes says she's getting on
quite well. thank you, and that she has
plenty of fashions TO go round.
Paris Aggrieved.
Paris believes it's all very well TO
have American fashions for American
women, but she is quite hurt about
being dropped so quickly. And Mr..
Philippe Ortiz, speaking for her, ex-
pressed her slight pique at this sudden
desertion. She wants America-and
New York especially to know that war
will not prevent clothes artists from
dreaming and visualizing their sartorial
dreams.
"Why, most Of our ateliers are open
and working hard" explained Mr.. Ortiz,
the representative Of the French Dress
makers Protective Society. There will
be openings, as usual-American dress
makers even have dressmakers in Paris
now, as a matter Of fact, and plenty OF
models are being imported
Mr.. Ortiz is disappointingly skeptical
about the immediate success OF the
American fashion movement, for, he
saws. your women will continue TO de-
mand French labels, and your dress
makers will find it more simple and
more satisfactory to import instead Of
to create. Besides, they will not be able
TO create until after many years Of
study.
"Our Ideal a Khaki Skirt
"Of course, l will not say that the
ideal American fashion for American
women is a shirtwaist, a khaki skirt
and 4 sombrero, and feel that when
ever a person desires something ar
tistic it is laudable, and this attempt
Of Americans to clothe themselves,
therefore, is a step in the right direc-
ton. But they must still look to their
masters for aid.
French women are strong and brave.
They have always been the strength Of
the nation They receive death and
loss, but maintain the most wonderful
calm in the face Of most terrible ca
lamities. That is what Americans must
realize. They have not succumbed to
Temperament but make possible the
continuation of countless industries" D."
Mr. Ortiz's delightful chivalry betrays
his nationality, although he is really
an American, having been naturalized
several years ago.
"Concerning the present attempt to
promote American fashions for Ameri-
can women, can only say that | have
little faith in its ultimate success, for
the reason that good will and business
ability are not sufficient TO insure orig
inality, especially in matters Of art,
and every one will agree with me that
the 'gowning' Of the feminine figure
is one of the most difficult of all arts
and one in which the Partisan coutu-
riers' superiority is so overwhelming
that they have really no cause to fear
that American fashions will ever sup
plant those Of Paris.
"However, all Americans ought to
welcome any artistic expression offered
by the people Of this country, be its
success probable or not Notwithstand-
ing, most Of the gowns offered to the
public as original American designs
are in reality but more or less clever
interpretations of French ideas The
fact that some American merchants are
endeavoring to design and create is an
indication that they are more or less
artistically inclined, and have 10
doubt that while trying to originate
they will at least perfect their knowl-
edge and increase their ability to copy,
thereby adding to their reputation as
the most clever copyists in the world.
American Movement Deserves Respect.
Assuming that by diverting their at