The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1914-04-12

| from until u, and ut night there is
! no walking along ANA looking into the
store windows. Indeed. after dark the
streets are almost deserted except near
| the moving picture shows. which have
| recently captured Lima by storm.
| And just here J would say that there
! ~ a great liberal movement going on III
TINS country. The people are demand
| ing liberty OF religious thought and
worship. New laws have been passed
by the national congress. and it is now
amy kind of n church where he pleases.
Until now the Protestant missionaries
naye not been permitted 10 push their
| laws provide for full religious freedom
throughout the country
This movement Is ut its beginning in
Peru. but it has been going on through
out South America for several years
past. Ecuador, which was once very
iintolerant. has established complete re
i!Sious freedom. Paraguay has done
the same. and Uruguay is about TO
adopt new constitution. in which a
there shall be no union OF Tic church
AND state. Similar demonstrations arc
going on in Chile. and there general
| demand is expressed that from now or
religious and secular institutions shall
stand alone.
Eut before I leave thc churches
I'izarro 1t faces the Plaza Mavor. with
its palm trees and its beautiful foUn-
tainS 1t is in the heart OF the city,
Q
Were over the kimac Valley. The
building is said TO be the finest church
nent, with the single exception of the
cathedral at Mexico City. Tie interior
Is very imprcssivG: and il makes ono
remembers that Catholics have wor-
SHIPPED for more than 800 years on that
spot The nigh altar is Il fine exam
pie OF massive silver construction. ana
the stalls OF the sanctuary are extra
ordinary specimens Of indian carving.
when indian carving was still In it,
prime
On the walls are fine paintings by
AiuFilio ana other great masters and
the chapcls are OF exceeding beauty. I
was especially impressed by that of
pi2arro. the little verger OF the catho-
dral took me into II, and under tho
aitar he showed ne the coffin in which
white marble with glass sides and top,
80 made that one could sec plainly the
remains lying. within. The verEer
down over the glass. AS he did so |
could see al that Is now left Of the
CONQUERED the west coast OF South
America. II consisted OF :. skeleton
lying upon a red velvet cushion en-
broidered with gold. The skeleton Is
black as mahogany. and it looks AS
though il were vanished. Tho skull
lies on a pillow, the neck being las
tened to II by wires through the ears.
The 'aw is 4 trifie dropping, the nose
is prominent and the great cyeless
sockets looked UP at, me as gazed
down through the glass top OF the
casket. AS looked more closely the
whole seemed merely a Shell The skin
has begun 70 peel from The Sims, and
bones. am told that IN times past
I patches OF skin have been cut off and
given TO relic hunters but as far as
| can see the most OF the corpse Is in
/ tact though decidedly lcathcry and the
worse for wear, From the outside Of
the coffin l have copied these words
Captain General Don Francisco
Pizarro, Fundador dc Lima en- Is dc
! Encro de 1885. Aluerto Ell % dc JUNO lie
lj4i." As | lett ] gave the verger q
dollar, and Carl snapped a photograph
of him as lie showed me the door.
Lima is e city built in a desert It's
! irrigated tracts are scattered through
/ rtteen small valleys. and they consist
/ altogether OF about 10000 acres Of
/ cultivated fields and woodlands. They
/ are divided into l16 estates, many OF
! the holdings being large. Practically
/ from this valley, and from the trade
| with Peru.
The conditions .abou, Lima are such
/ that ii never rains There is not 4
/ In the whole town, and umbrellas arc
used only 10 keep out the sun. The
! streets have no cutters, and the roofs
/ have no chimncy.. All OF the cooking
! Is done over charcoal, the fumes OF
which get out as they can. The town
/ has practically no baclyards, and only
The most of the buildings run around
/ courts or patios upon which the chief
rooms face. The larger houses arc
I nne and they cover I; great deal OF
/ ground, single one often having
twenty or more rooms. surrounding
several large courts, in some OF which
. play fountains amid tropical trees.
Many OF the older buildings are
/ beautiful and exceedingly comfortable.
I of sun dried brick, or OF plaster spread
+ over a framework of wood. lathed with
/ bamboo canes. The roofs are OF this
1 nature. The outer walls OF such build
/ city has 4 very substantial appearance.
whereas much OF 1t, as l said In d
/ former letter, is i combination OF mud
OF late they are putting up many
/ Gue structure of reinforced concrete
and along the Avenue OF the EXposi-
would be- considered fine anywhere
lin the world. Lima has altogether
now about 10000 inhabitants. 1t is
/ steadily growing, and when IN" cana!
is completed its population aud bust
/ ness viii greatly increase. II viii ie
one OF the chief tourist resorts of
South A,nerica: and If il can only have
som" better hotels it will be the most
delightful resort along the west coast
AS It is now the hotel accommodate
lions arc limited. There arc two or
three large establishments which have
rooms and board. You may take your
accommodations on the american or
European plan, and the rates are just
about as high as those of the states.
You wili have chambcrmcn instead OF
chamhernlaidS and your meals viii
consist Of dcsayuno almucrzo and din
n.rs poSayuno means the cup OF
black coffee and two little rolls which
you eat tor Your breakfast. This the
tuu t" ln -n'i
bcr and you may have 1t in bed ii
you choose. AlmucrZo comes at -
o'clock, when there is a fairly good
table d'hotc meal and at or there is
TAI le d'hotc dinner. AT both OF these
latter meals the dishes are Spanish,
ana they arc recorded on a menu which
most tourists need It dictionary to read
' J ala stopping at The Maury, which
vies with tho Grand as the best hotel
IA Peru IT Is great two story struc-
, iurc with wide balconies extending
over the street. have a room facing
ire street for which they ask ed 81 eold
ner day Without board. Back of this, is
httie dark sitting room There are
! no private bathrooms to speak Of ana
altogether the hotel might he i'm
proved in n number OF ways
, (t'DpvVlHhi la1A nv II -