davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

coarse weavings are more in keeping
with the work than the finer ones.
Both silks and embroidery cottons.
which give fat appearance, are suit
able for working mediums. Crewel
woods. though not so fat looking, work
up very effectively for some purposes
The colors for foundation materials
are preferably ecru. biscuit. a Whitley
brown tint. cream. ivory, and tussore
shades although more definite coiors
may be employed. as taste dictates.
Respecting coIors for working. il in
silk. not more than four should be
used. or three shades Of one color; in
cotton, not more than three different
colors are advisable. Two shades Of
blue and one Of golden yellow. on a
white foundation. have a charming
effect. Dark. blue and red is a
fayorite combination. also rather light
yellowish green and dark blue. and
a quartette Of colors, blue. green.
red and orange look we'll.
In working always cut the en-
broidery cotton; do not break it, and
every now and then give it a twist, 50
that it does not come untwisted in
working
Evening journal., 1914-03-04
PROBLEMS IN
DRESSMAKING
CcOntInued from Last coIumu)

CONTINUED from Last Column)
pieces TO make the necessary width
and press the seams open with care.
Then undertake the front and lower
edges with a bias strip Of material one
and one-haIf inches in width and
stitch one inch within the edge to
match exactly the front and armhole
edges. For this undertaking, you can
use either the fancy or the plain ma.
terial or a thinner silk Of matching
color and. as the latter is likely to be
the preferred material, there has been
no allowance made for it in the dia-
gram. To form the nlaits in the tunic,
fold on the lines Of smaller perfora-
tions and lap over until they Just meet
the centers Of the large perforations
but do not cover the latter. Baste
the plaits into place. Gather the
tunic between the double crosses AMI
Join to the belt with the center back
together and the edges Of the tunic
At the double perforatioa, which
,hould exactly meet the edges Of the
side front portions Of the bIolse To
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

join the tunic to the belt, slip the edge
between the outside and the lining,
adjust the gathers carefully, baste and
stitch.
Before making the collar and the
chemisette, attach whatever fasten-
ings you will use. In the picture, but
tons and simulated button-holes are
used for the trimming only and the
snap fastenings are. sewed beneath
the hem but, instead Of these, you can
use hooks and eyes or hooks and loops
or any similar fastenings that you may
like. In this particular instance, the
chemisctte and collar are made from
lace three inches wide and lace is ex-
ceedingly pretty and dainty for the
purpose but lust now We are using
great deal Of plain net lined with
itself and il YOU prefer the material it
will be necessary only to cut two por-
tions Of each aud to line one with the
other and then to proceed exactly
according to directions Join the
notched edges of the collar and attach
the collar supports over the seams
and at the center back Lap the right
side Of the chem sette over the left
with the large perforations meeting
and baste into place; then arrange
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

THE preference for strong coloring
and bold designs in embroidery
shows itself in the recent re-
vival Of Bulgarian work, which is
applied to collars, cuffs, yokes and
belts Of washing and other dresses in
a very effective manner. Ii is easy
and rapid in execution. and when the
correct coloring and stitchery are
applied. there is a certain distinctive
bold character about Bulgarian en-
broidery. which has always won ap-
proval Moreover. it not only looks
well but wears well. and is inexpensive
in working.
Evening journal., 1914-03-04
~ " .!1N 49,

4.--The Fronts ard Bach Of Bioass
ard Tasic on MoserdI Folded Longtk-
Mise.
Combinations Of materials are being
80 much used this season that | am
showing this waist made Of plain and
figured silks twenty-seveh inches wide
with a tiny little chemisette and Medici
collar of lace. There are four diagrams
because, while the sleeves and the
front are Of one material, the sleeves
will require the entire width and the
center front portion must be cut on the
fold. When using figured material.
YOU must cut the two sleeves seps-
rately, taking care that the figures
run in the same direction. II you fold
the material crosswise 70 cut the two
at once, you will have the figures run
ming mp IN one sleeve and down In the
other We show one only. To cut
the second sleeve. reverse the pattern.
Turn it over from side TO side, leaving
the shoulder and wrist edges in the
same relative position and bringing
the side Of the pattern that, In the
first instance, is placed against the
silk uppermost in the second instance.
The fronts. back and tunic are all
made OF the plain silk. The back is
laid on the fold and the front is 50
shaped that in the plain silk. which
has no up and down, it can be laid
as shown in the Illustration, so pro-
viding real economy in the cutting
but. If you we're using material with
up and down. il would be necessary
10 cut these front portions separately
because there would not be width
enough left over from the back for the
wide lower portions. The back Of the
peplum is cut on the fold Of the ma
terial but twenty-seven inch goods Is
not vide enough to cut it all in one
piece and the dotted line indicates
where the selvage edges come and you
must cut the front pieces separately
and inin the edaes on this straight
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

foulard and which illustrates big arm
holes Of a different sort. It is very
charming made Of the lowered and
plain silk and every woman knows
that foulard is one Of the most useful
Of summer fabrics but it could be
reproduced in cotton crepe, cotton
voile or almost any Of the seasons
fabrics, for one and all Of them provide
very beautiful and attractive contrasts.
In this instance, the sash matches the
center of the flowers, so aooentuating
that color and giving an exceedingly
good result.
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

r.--Coli1y and Chsnisefss on Loos
Folded Cfosrcise.
s.---Tbe Center Fyon. on Matsridl
Folded LengihtDiss.
Rss. s5i70"' '''''' on A''''''' y '"''''
the under-arm and sleeve seams, using
the double or French seam described
in a previous lesson. Whether the
sleeves are long or short. finish them
with straight over-faeings Of the plain
material Of any width YOU may desire
but two aud one-half inches is a good
one. To do this, cut strips Of the
necessary length and Join the ends.
Then seam one long edge Of each 20
the edge Of one sleeve with the seams
meeting and with the right side facing
the wrong side Of the sleeve. Turn
up over the sleeve and turn the upper
edge under and baste and stitch as in
the illustration one-haIf inch within
each edge. As the next step gather
the blouse at the lower edge between
the double crosses. Cut a lining fer
the belt. Turn the seam allowances on
each long edge under and baste. Ar
range the outer portion Of the belt
over the blouse on the right side
with the center backs together, the
large perforations in the belt at the
center front and the smaller perfora-
tions meeting the under-arm seams,
and cut the left side Of the belt OF at
the double perforations. Arrange the
lining Of the belt over the under aide
Of the blouse in exactly the same wsy;
then baste into place and stitch througa
all the thicknesses as close 60 tha upper
edge As possible.
Lay the blouse aside and pre7ars
the tunic- To do this. Erst join the
Esr BaAanrr OF Ls-a - Flr-s o''A-z4-z==>:
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

nREsENT fashions are really
ideal for the home dress
maker. The newest and
sinartest waists and bIouscs are loose
and the sleeves arc Joined to them
At big arnholes II they are not cut
in Japanese style and, as a result.
there is no fitting. Nothing il snug,
everything is designed to hang loosely
and 70 pouch under the arms; con-
sequently. all the difficulties that
might besct the amateur disappear.
This fancy waist with tunic makes
an excellent example Of the prevailing
style and the general directions that
are given for its making will apply
TO Others Of a similar sort. In pur-
chasing your pattern, be quite GER
tain 70 obtain the correct size. n
your waist is either longer or shorter
than the average or normal woman,
a little change will be required in the
pattern TO meet the condition but
no other can be needed. Never cut
of or add 70 a waist at the lower edge;
80 doing only spoils the lines and Il Is
upon the lines that the smartness a
every garment depends.
Evening journal., 1914-03-04
PROBLEMS IN DRESsMAKING
HOW TO MAKE ONE OF THE
NEW WAISTS WITH BIG ARMHoLEs

hne. On the envelope. you are told
to lay the belt on the crosswise fold
but, for this particular material, It
will be more economical to make
seam at the back and, since It is covered
by eirdle. il viii not show; hence you
will cut two pieces from the portions
left from around the fronts Of the pep
ium and join the edges. The back Of
the collar is laid on the crosswise fold
Of the lace to bring the finished edge
At the top and the long straight edge
Of the remaining portion and the
notched edge Of the chenlisette are
laid lengthVise on the lace. Should
you wish elbow sleeves, cut the sleeve
pattern through on the cross line Of
perforations before placing Il on the
material.
After you have pinned the various
parts Of the pattern into place on the
different materials, trace ali around
the outside edges to get the corect
bastins line and mark all the perfora.
tions and notches With the tracin,
wheel or tailor's chalk. Cut beyon,
the outside edge Of your pattern q
far as the special material makes neces
sar' for a scam.
Take out ali the pins ard remov
the pattern. Then make all the mark
ings through TO the under side bs
means Of the tailor's tacks which have
been described in former lesson
After separating the under from the
upper portions Of the blouse. lay the
peplum aside until needed.
First finish the neck edge Of the
eenter-front and back portions r.
DO this, cut bias strips Of plain silk
one-half inch in width. Fold at the
center. Turn the seam allowance on
the neck edge under and arrange over
your double fold, leaving one-eighth OF
an inch beyond the neck edge Of the
blouse; haste and stitch into place
Since the blouse is to be closed at the
left side, there must be fastenines ol
some sort attached TO the front por
iion and it win be easier to prepar'
for this before the side-fronts are ar
ranged rit;,hereforc, under-face th'
left sidevitha straight strip Of matena
one and one-quarter inches in widtl
when Il will be strong enough for th
buttons or whatever form Of closin
YOU may use As the next step tur
the front edges Of the side fronts unde
on the perforations and turn the scar
allowance under TO form inturns; bast
and stitch the left side one inch within
the folded edge. Arrange both side
fronts over the center-front with tn
edges at the perforations and basti
into place. Stitch the right side on
inch within the edge through both thI
side-front and the center-front. Joil
the shoulder edges Of the side-fronti
and the back Of the blouse Then Gu
bias strips Of the material one and one
hall inches in width and under-fac'
the srnhole edges, making the stitch
ing one inch within the edge TO mate
the front portions. Remove the bast
iugs and press. Lap the blouse owe
the sleeves with the finished edges a
the perforationsi haste carefully AM
stitch into place one inch within eacl
edge TO match the front portions. Clos
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

Draped skirts and tunics are sharing
the honors. Both are correct. We
may wear whichever we choose or we
may combine the two, for not infre-
quently, one secs short tunic over a
peg top skirt, but the pretty effect OBJ
tsined by the costume at the extreme
right would be somewhat spoiled by
anyaddition. Thelines are all graceful
and the blouse with its raglan sleeves
and dainty little vest and ehemisetts
is exceedingly charming.
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

II this particular waist proves to be
too long wasted, lay tuck IN the
front and one in the back Of the pat
tern half way between the shoulder
edge and the extension that forms the
under-arm portion and let this tuck
take up exactly the excessive length.
Then lay your pattern over the sleeve
and take up a tuck in the front Of the
sleeve and one in the back at exactly
the same points and at exactly the
same depth, tapering 10 nothing.
to fit the altered waist; the size Of the
sleeves should not be changed more
than necessary. To shorten them iaya
tuck just below the elbow. Lay
little tuck in the center front
portion at exactly the same
point and Of exactly the same width
and ali the changes viii have been
made and you can 20 on cutting and
making without any further thought
a. 10 the It.
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

ITO be smart, the sleeves of the
costume must be loose and
droop somewhat under the
arms. Other details may be more
Or less open to choice but loose sleeves
make the rule. In some instances,
the effect is obtained by the use Of
the raglan model; in others again, the
blouse shows the genuine Japanese or
kimono cut but. among the very
newest and most interesting costumes.
the sleeves that are joined to the gar
ment at very big armholes are con
-spieuous.
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

color in equal width, are extremely
fashionable and combine most effect
lively with plain color. The costume
showing this effect also shows one Of
the newest sleeves and an unusually
pretty and becoming neck finish. In
the picture, It is made Of cotton voile
while it shows white with an exquisite
shade of grayish green and the black
sash gives just the note Of strong color
that is essential this season.
To the left Of the costume is .
young girls frock that is made Of
Evening journal., 1914-03-04
NOTES for the HOME NEEDLE WOMEN

Bulgarian designs are somewhat
crude, consisting chiefly Of unnatural
looking leaf, wheel, bar, or heart
shapes, with flowers or fruit Of some
what solid appearance introduced as a
variety.
Flat stitches are invariably en-
ployed. no padding being allowed. and
judicious variety Of treatment is
advisable so as not to destroy a GER
tain uniformity characteristic Of the
work.
All kinds OF silk. linen and cotton
materials. Of an evenly woven, and
not close texture are suitable. and the
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

inside the center-front portion Of the
blouse with the edge Of the blouse at
the lines Of perforations; baste into
position and sew carefully into place
along the neck edge, taking small
stitches through the undertaking
only. To Join the collar TO the neck
edge, let the seam allowance extend
under the blouse and take care that
the center backs come exactly together
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

and the ends Of the collar at the single
periorations in the chemisette; baste
into position and stitch the right side
into place and the left to the edge Of
the chemisette. From that point to
the end, bind it with tiny little strip
Of fine lawn or batiste and sew hook
10 the end Of the collar and an eye
under the chemisette TO hook il into
place.
Evening journal., 1914-03-04

BY one method or another, we must
be broad over the hips, but when we
have accomplished that effect and
loose sleeves, the rest of the costume
will quite surely be correct. As a
matter of course, the narrow skirts
give the effect of being drawn in about
the feet.
In this picture are shown some Of
the newest and smartest models and,
incidentally, some Of the most fash
ionable fabrics What are known as
awning stripes, or stripes Of white and
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14

an honest purpose to give Alabama the
best administration she has ever had
Mr. Henderson has been highly
honored by the people of Alabama.
He has defeated a strong man. who
was popular with the people, but 1t
has been charged that Henderson was
most too partial to the railroads and
some have expressed the fear that he
might look more to the welfare of
the railroads than to the welfare of
the state. This was probably charged
for campaign purposes, but there are
people in alabama who will keep close
tab on the acts of Mr.. Henderson
when he becomes governor.
If Mr.. Henderson proves what his
friends claim for him he will make
a good governor, and he should be
given every opportunity and encour-
agement to do this.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14
Farm Demonstration
"a Good Thing.

The action of the county commits
R1oners at their meeting of Tuesday
n4RfA IN creating the position of as
sist@art superintendent of the county
farm, at a monthly salary of $50,
should receive the hearty endorsement
Of every tax payer in the county.
As @ general proposition The Jour
mai is opposed to the attainment of
an end by indirectfon. But there are
exceptions to an rules. and this in
stance proves one of these exceptions.
The Escambia County Crop I'M
provement Association, organized as a
direct result of the impetus given the
agricultural development of Escambia
county, under the intelligent direction
Of G. K McQuarrfe farm demonstrators
Of the National Department of Agri-
culture, has been. and still is, an or
Ranization OF inestimable value to the
farming interests of the county.
From its inception to the present
time, the organization work has been
conducted altogether along practical
lines. with the result that it has
gained the confidence, and at least the
moral support, Of the farmers of the
county. Therefore, by all means it
should be perpetuated. And its per-
petuation has been assured by the ac-
ton of the board of commissioners in
adopting the expedient of creating the
new position at a salary of $50 per
month, and designating the associa-
TONS farm demonstration. s. W. Hiatt,
to fill 1t.
When the Crop Improvement Asso-
ciation's petition was presented to the
commissioners for a direct appropria-
ton OF $50 per month to be employed
in the associations maintenance, the
commissioners were confronted with
the information from their legal ad-
wiser that such an appropriation would
be illegal BY the same authority,
however, they were advised that the
end desired to be attained could be
accomplished with every warrant of
law through thn creation Of the new
position Of assistant superintendent of
the county farm. Thereupon the ex-
pedient suggested by the county at
torney was adopted.
In doing this the commissioners
beat the devil around the BUSH" but
The Journal is of the opinion that they
we're right in doing so, and. as stated
above, thinks that their action should
receive the unqualified endorsement of
every tax payer in the county. And
we believe that it will.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14
Important to Candidates
Printers and Newspapers.

Section ten of Chapter $40 of the
laws OF Florida, better known as the
corrupt practices act, contains the
following provision:
Sec. 10. That it shall be unlawful
for any candidate or other person dur
ing the eighteen days next preceding
the day OF a primary election to pub
lish or circulate or cause to be pub
hshed or circulated any charge against
or attack upon any candidate unless
a copy OF such charge or attack has
been personally served upon the can
didate against whom made at least
eighteen days prior to the day of the
primary. and any person publishing
or circulating such charge or attack
without a copy of the same having
been personally served upon the per-
son against whom the charge or attack
is made as herein required. shall be
punished by a fine of not exceeding
one thousand dollars or be imprisoned
not exceeding one year, or be pun
Ished by both such fine and imprison-
ment. Any answer to a charge or at
tack that contains only defensive mat
ter shall not be construed to be a
charge or attack
This provision means that after to-
day. Thursday. May IA. it will be I'M
lawful for any person, candidate.
printer. or newspaper to publish or
circulate any charge or attack upon a
candidate, unless such charge shall
have been served upon said candidate
in person either on or previous to this
date.
Just is days now intervene between
today and the day of the election.
Therefore no charges can be published
after today except as provided in the
law.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14

facts concerning this charge and I
ask in fairness to me that you give
my letter the same publicity that you
gave my arrest.
l want 10 say in the first place that
there is rot a word of truth in this
statement that 1 solicitated money
from Mr.. Stokes or Nelson or anyone
else
The affidavit against me was made
on the first of May. and alleged that |
made the solicitation on April the 9th.
The prosecutors have never stated
why they waited from the 27tA of
April tc the LIST Of May before bring
ing n charge.
| was arrested on Saturday. May 2,
and at the instance of Mr.. Nelson the
court waited until Monday before set
ting the case. this was at Mr.. Nell
sons request in order that ne might
communicate with Mr.. Stokes; on May
the 4th, the case was set for trial for
Saturday, May 9th, and on Saturday,
May 9Th | was present in court WITH
my attorney. Hon. A. W. Weeks, of
Bombay. and demanded a trial but the
case was continued over my protest
and set for June 9Th. Mr.. Nelson,
who made the affidavit against me,
was present in the court room on
Saturday. May 9th. Mr.. Stokes was
in Chipley, Washington COUNT. only
few miles distance and could have
been here in his capacity as witness
just a easily as he was at Chipley
in his capacity as candidate. but for
reasons known to the prosecutors but
not explained to anyone else they
seemed unwilling to try this case until
after the primary of June 2nd is over.
I write you this letter in order that
the people may know the true facts
in the case and that they may know
the reason that [ was not tried for
this offeDse and acquitted or convicted
as the evidence might justify was be-
cause Mr.. Stokes and Mr.. Nelson who
brought this prosecution had it post
poned until after the primary over my
objection and against my protest.
Yours very truly,
E NJ. NEWMAN. -"
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14
VOX POPULI.
BAY COUNTY MAN PROTESTS
ON DELAY OF TRIAL

Panama City, Fla, May II, 1914.
Editor Pensacola Journal
On Sunday, May the 3rd, you had
an articles In your paper with bold
head line announcing that a warrant
had been sworn out for me and that L
had been arrested charged with hav-
ing solicitated money from John P.
Stokes. candidate for congress in yio-
lation of the corrupt practice act.
l made you no reply at that time
for the reason that l think law suits
should be tried in court and not IN
newspapers, but since it seems that [
I'M to he denied a speedy trial as guar
anteed by the constitution I am TAX
ing the liberty of writing you the
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14

beg to announce my candidacy for
the ONCE of County Tax Assessor to be
2nd If elected, I will BE- in the once at
all times to consult with property hold
eTs and ] submit to the people as my
piatform Fair and equal assessments for
all Soliciting the support Of the voters
Very Respectfully
FRANK J. RTFRA
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14
POLITICAL ANNOUNCEMENTS
COIIkrN nAN Arrrr
Paid Advertisement.

COUNTY TAX ASSESSOR.
hereby announce my candidacy for
denomination to the office of County Tax
Assessor subject to the action OF the
democratic primary. l am very grateful
LOT past faVors and earnestly solicit your
interest at this time.
w. w RICHARDS
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-05-14
The Alabama Election
and Peace.

Now that the second primary has
been held in Alabama, it is hoped that
the people there will be relieved Of
politics for at least few months.
Henderson has been nominated and
since many good things have been
promised in his name. it is hoped
that our nearby neighbor will find
In him a man of depth. conservative
and reasonable in all things. and with