The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-01

toro Valley 7 learned much concerning
names and legends connected with this
pass and the Rose Glacier. In older
mes the Baltis called this the Bla-
phond or Butterfly Glacier, because of
The shape 1t assumes near the centre,
where certain branches enter. From
an eminenCe above the ice a little imag-
inaton makes the main glacier and
its afiuents appear like monster ice
butterfly.
The snowstorm In which we camped
lasted sixteen hours and all the party
felt the rapid change from "A shade
temperature of Sj detrees to ~ degrees
and this in the rarcfied air Of 1000
feet altitude. Thus three days passed
and then the weather became perfect.
''Camp was struck and soon the cara
van OF eighty men and one woman,
myself, was moving onward to the
music Of Crunching snow, which being
In prime condition presented no special
difficulties to the long ascent of the
lIilaphond Pass. Itpy. one of the guides,
was sent ON ahead to retonnoitre a
route to the peak / wished to climb,
accompanied by Guide Quarzier. Soon
after this occurred the accident which
cost the life of Chenoz. my favorte
camp porter. We then returned to All
Bransa and remained there three days
while twelve coolies took the body of
Chcnoz To the first grass of the valley
and buried il.
"On their return the work OF the
eNped tIon was at once taken up and
We again started for the col which
was reached in Cloudcss weather. From
this pass we struck out west for wide,
elevated snow plateau which lay below
the beautiful virgin snow peak | wished
to attempt. After a sharp climb this
plateau was reached at . l.. NJ, and
large tents were pitched for a two
nights halt at 10000 feet.
"The next morning we set out
for the peak. After two hours as
cent of moderate snow scopes rock
ridge Jutting out from the main peak
was reached and DR.. Workman re-
NAMED for photography and observa-
tions, while | continued the climb wi. Il
three guides. 1t was a most difficult
one owing to the melting Of the snow,
which caused us to sink through onto
hard black ice. Each step had to I've
cut. which on black ice Is a most ar
duous task.
THE gradient Of the last thousa nd
feet was never less than co degrees. but
near the apex The snow became, more
stable, and at last We stood on the sum
nit, $1,000 feet above. sea level a Won
dcrful scene lay before us from this
point.
1.-THE great Rose Glacier. three miles
wide and 5000 feet below where | stood,
appeared to run many miles between
wild ranges until lost in mountain chaos.
For seventy-hve miles on three sides
great mountain vistas Of weirdest rock
and snow splendor met my gaze. Here
and again among the endl, S. phalanXes
~ peaks some superlatiVc snow giant OF
$4,000 or $1,000 feet lifted its glittering
snow crest above the others. We looked
over a vast ice continent OF I 900 square
miles. consisting ofsmountains and gla-
ciers. devoid Of all vegetation. extending
! named the mountain the Magic, or
Tawiz, Peak.
sour task was to examine the Rose
/ Glacier near is tongue twonty-thrca
miles away. to reascend this lower
/ twenty-three miles of ice and continue
! The exploration of its upper twentY-four
miles, to explore its ailuents and visit
/ It's elevated sources forming the barrier
between the Karakoram and Chinese
| Turkestan. Of which nothing was yet
known. 1t was on this upper part that
| chiefly concentrated my attention.
Beautiful clear lakes ar. numerous on
the Rose. The banks ot one We photo
graphed at an altitude Of 1000 feet was