davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10

with sleeves. Arrange the right sil,i
together, the single notches in TIA
fronts and the double notche, in tt,
back meeting and the edges exactly
together, and haste carefully. Stit:,
and turn the seams up under the yos,
and sleeves and stitch the second tt n.
on the right side just %one-eighth Of l,
inch from the edges to make a fir y
finish.
Close the under-arm and sleev.
seams by first taking up the narrowest
possible seam on the right side. then
turning and sewing the wrong side o.
the marked outline Of the pattern. II
you are making the long sleeves, gathet
the sleeves between the double crosses.
Cut lining for the cuffs exactly like TIL.
outside and seam n long straight
edge Of each lining and each cuff to-
gether and join the ends. Then turn
on the long seam and haste. I
Seam the cuffs to the sleeves. seams
meeting: stitch and fell the lining over
the seams. If you are making three
quarter sleeves, cut bands three inches
wide the exact size of the sleeves and
Join the ends; then seam to the sleeves
with the seams on the right side and
with the seams of the bands and the
seams of the sleeves meeting. Turn up
over the sleeves and stitch into place
one-eighth inch within the edge.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10

Line the collar with a very thin
batiste cut exactly like the outside and
seam the outer edges together: turn
over on the seam and haste very closely
and carefully. Arrange the collar in
side the blouse with the right side ofths
collar on the wrong side of the blouse.
center backs and notches exactly meet
ing, and seam the collar to the blouse:
then fell the lining over the seam.
Gather the blouse on the perforations
at the waist line and adjust on the
wearer. Pass a narrow belt around
the waist and arrange the fitness be-
comingly. If there seems a little too
much blouse, slip the belt up a little
over the gathers; if a deeper blouse
would be becoming, draw the blouse
up a little above the belt. Then pin
the belt into place, remove the blouse
from the wearer and stitch carefully.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10
83o2 Yoke Dress, "a to AZ bust.

this pattern with its new and becoming
collar is one of the best to be found.
You can make it from crepe de chine
or other soft silk for a really dressy
afternoon blouse, or you can make it
from cotton crepe, wolfe o. some similar
material for just a useful one. Also you
can make it all Of one material or with
the collar Of contrasting color, this
latter combination being an exceed
ingly fashionable one. The separate
blouse of colored linen, batiste or wolfe
is much worn and white collars give
q very dainty touch at the same time
thtt they are very generally becoming.
This model consists Of just five
pieces. In the diagram they are all
laid out upon material forty-four
inches wide which is folded length
wise, and 2 yards will be required
The yoke with sleeves, however, a
not be cut from a single width and.
therefore, must be pieced on the dotted
lines and the little piece marked with
IA. "Piecing for sleeve" is to be
joined to the sleeves to give the re-
quired width for the long sleeves, the
double AS coming together. If short
! sleeves are to be used, only a little
portion of the piecing will be needed
since the sleeve is to be cut off on the
line of perforations; but, in either
case, the straight edges must be joined
as the first step.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10

As the pattern is laid out here, the
material is supposed to be white French
crepe and the collar and cuffs are Of the
same. If you should want to make the
collar of a different material from the
blouse, you would of course cut it
from the special material but it would
be laid on the cloth in Just the same
way.
First, mark all around the pattern
with %tailor's chalk and mark the per-
forations and the notches as must be
done in the case of every garment.
Then cut the material out, allowing
three-eighths Of an inch beyond the
marked outline for seams unless the
material trays readily, in which case,
allow one-half inch. Remove the pat
tern and mark the perforations and
notches through to the under side
with tailor's tacks.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10
BASQUES MAKE A
7 OF THE
NEW BODICES
Over Waists and Over Waist
/, Effects are Conspicuous.

IT is doubtful if there is any garment
of greater interest at a change
of seasons than is the bodice or
waist. Here is a group of most
attractive ones, all Of which are new
and smart and which can be utilized
as parts of autumn costumes or for
wear with separate skirts. Besides
being a season Of exceptional interest
in matters Of design, fabrics are Won
derfully beautiful and wonderfully
varied, so that this opening autumn
presents an unusual opportunity.
Undoubtedly, we shall wear a great
deal of velvet as trimming in combina-
ton with plain silks and with wool
materials. There is so much of the
over-blouse effect to be noted that the
season seems an especially interesting
one for the woman of economical ten
denotes, for such bodices always lend
themselves to remodelling with excep-
tional success.
Then, too, the basque has taken on
most attractive features and this is
Nne of the best. Besides being new and
smart, it a be worn over any plated
skirt. full skirt, or rufled skirt to make
an.entire new costume and such COM
binations as an accordion plated skirt
Of chiffon or crepe de chine with a
bodice of charmeuse satin or ~tafeta,
or a skirt that is rufled with lace with
a satin basque will be among the
smartest of all things. Accordion
plating Is in the height Of style and
every woman knows how easy it is to
provide an accordion plated skirt.
Worn with a basque of satin or later
Of velvet, it would make one Of the
handsomest costumes possible. To
give a very dainty touch, the 1aring
collar could be of sheer, white organdie
with little bits Of hand embroidery in
the points.
In the center Of the group Is a real
over-blouse that is designed to match
o. to harmonic with the skirt with the
bodice beneath of organdie, crepe de
chine or some similar material.
Above are two simulated over
blouses: that is to say, there are two
blouses, each made Of two materials
so handled as to give the over-blouse
effect. For these, such small pieces
Of material are required that they seem
to have been designed for the making
over that so often really means the
making Of new things from old.
Down in the extreme left hand cor
her, there is a dainty surplice blouse
that is made of bordered net over
chiffon. 1t consists of only two
straight pieces Tapped at front and
back and can be made in such a few
moments that it will often prove a
real friend in need. This season long
sleeves are the preferred ones and
these with the frills over the hands
and bands of velvet ribbon are charm
ing, but Fashion is generous in the
matter of sleeves and they can be
cut off to shorter length if, for any
reason, such shortening is advisable.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10
PROBLEMS IN
The New Blouse with Gladstone Collar

As the-irst step in making, turn tho
edges of the fronts uSIrr on tho pa--
forations, turn the seam allowance
under for inturns, and stitch the hens
into place. Then cut stnps Of shA ma
terial as wide as the hem with a seam
allowance on each edge and undertake
the front edges above the hens. taking
care to make the width exactly that
Of the hens.
Now gather the upper edges Of the
blouse, fronts and backs, between the
double crosses and join to the yoke
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10

7 YERE is a design in sweet peas
for embroidering a center-pT2z
twenty-five inches in diameter
having a scalloped botu:r.
The Scalloped edges are first to be
padded and then buttonholed; the
leaves and flowers are to be worked
in solid Kensington stitch with the
stems outlined and the dots made
solidly; or the flowers and leaves
may be worked in the long and short
stitch, or the design all carried out in
simple outline stitch.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-10-10
r HIS variation Of the Japanese

IT HIS variation Of the Japanese
idea-cutting the yoke and
sleeves in one while the blouse
itself is full and joined to the yoke
is to be found in the very newest
blouses. The model chosen for our
talk is excellent either for the entire
gown or for the separate waist. Just
now when there is midsummer leisure
and a great many girls and young
women are planning for their return
to school and college, the separate
waist has an especial interest and
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-07-07
WHAT FIVE WORKING WOMEN TOLD PRIME
MINISTER OF ENGLAND
BY MARY BOYLE O'REILLY

. WAR DOI EE ~ NEILLl
London, July Eight years ago
the prime minister of England CURLY
refused to receive suffrage petition
ers. Almost Immediately afterward
Annie Kenney was manhandled; Mrs.
Drummond arrested; and Mrs. Pank-
hurst did her first hunger strike for
again demanding audience with the
head of a constitutional government.
Now, Mrs. Sylvia Pankhurst, just re-
leased from Holloway prison, lay
down on the steps of the house of
commons promising to remain there
until the premier received deputa-
ton, or until she died of starvation.
Her pitiable weakness, the result
of repeated hunger strikes, made the
threat ominous as prophecy.
The first minister of the crown
surrendered!
The girl leader, too weak to walk,
was carried back to Bethnal Green to
call together the deputation already
selected.
Five delegates from East London
suffrage societies chosen by public
mSSIluSS uSlu Ill LllllS 11OuOC, Odu-
ming Town, Poplar, Bow and Brom-
ley (the five boroughs where millions
of toilers struggle to live), left Old
Ford Road in the heart of the dim
East End to wait upon the prime min
ister
Instructed to go alone, without
suffrage organizers or members of
parliament, Mrs. Ford, a tailoress,
Mrs. Hughes, a brushmaker, Mrs.
Parsons, a cigaret packer, Mrs.
Payne and Mrs. Bird, housewives,
gathered in the premier's library.
81 am somewhat Late" apologized
Premier Asquith, as he entered. A
simultaneous smile assented. Late,
indeed, at least seven years late!
A Transport Workers Wife's Story.
Mrs. Bird, wife of a transport
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-07-07


may see 1 am not fighting for the
vote for myself l am one of the
best-off women on the East Side.
There are thousands worse off than
me. But holding the home together
depends upon us keeping our health.
"The tenement we live in, the mar
kets for our food, our baby's milk, the
streets where our children must play,
all these are healthy, or dangerous,
according as borough councillors at
tend to them.
my husband cannot follow up
such things. He comes home late,
dead tired, poor man, needing his
sleep. 1t is who must protect the
family. The East End as we know
it is no place for children. We moth
ers feel that we have the right to help
in improving conditions. But Dor
ough councillors will not heed US I'M
til we have the vote"
She stood back,
A TaiIoress' Story.
Another woman stepped forward,
Mrs. Ford, of Stephey, a tailoress.
1uOuSH she DOWeu bravery ner ndnQS
trembled.
"Sir, l am a widow these eleven
years. There is no man to speak for
me or my two children. At my trade
it is a common thing for grown wo-
men to earn but seven shillings
($1.75), for a full weeks work. 1t is
impossible to live decently on that.
1t is a hard struggle to make both
ends meet.
There is no help for us but the
workhouse. That means separation
from my little ones. Surely if was
fit to bear them | am fit to care for
them.
''In my young days took up trou-
ser making and pressing but was
forced to leave the shop rather than
submit to the unwelcome attentions
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
WORKS OFFICIAL
IN THE CITY TODAY
j. c. Adams, Vice President Of tho
Company Holds Conference
With City Council.

j. C. Adams, vice president of the
Keokuk Water Works company whose
office is at New York City, arrived in
Keokuk today and will spend several
days here looking over Improvements
and extensions contemplated by the
company. He was today talking to
the members of the city council re-
garding the proposed extension of the
intake pipe In the fore bay. The mat
ter Of placing extensions into the Nc
Kin1ey avenue district also is being
looked after by Mr.. Adams.
The council received petition to-
day from w. G. Blood and a number
of other property owners In the city
asking that Fulton street from Sec
ond to Third, and Second street from
Fulton to Morgan, be repaired. The
petition of E. 8. Patterson and several
other property owners requesting that
an arc light be placed at the corner
of Fourteenth and Leighton streets,
was granted today by the council.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
Additional Sports
TAKES OVER
DANVILLE FRANCHISE
$500 Raised at Booster Meeting Last
NIght-Plans Made for Big
nna Alno 0av

$500 Raised at Booster Meeting Last
NIght-Pians Made for Big
Opening Day.
[Urited Press Leased Wire Service
MOLINE, ILL.,, July 17.-Moline has
taken over the Three Eye league fran
chise held by Danville.
The boosters Of the city decided to
enter professional base ball ranks
last night following the receipt of a
telegram from A. R. Tearney, presl-
dent OF league, at giant mass meet
ing when $4,000 was subscribed TO
launch the team in this city.
1--WE could raise $4,000 II necesa-
sary," said the mayor, after the meet
ing. The team will start playing un>
der the name Of Moline Immediately.
The first home game will be played
Monday, August 3, when Davenport
appears here for the first time.
1t is planned to have great booster"
day." of which parade, speeches, ETC.,
will be the feature.
A park has been secured In splen-
did location and Moline fans are eager
to see their first professional ball
team in action for the first time.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
ASSESSMENT NOTICE.

To whom it may concern:
Notice is hereby given, That a plat
and schedule have been prepared by
the direction of the city council of the
city of Keokuk, showing the assess
ments proposed to be made for and on
account OF the cost of the construc-
ton of paving and curling on Seven
teenth street from Grand avenue south
toward Orleans avenue. to the north
end OF the first bridge, the said plat
and schedule showing the separate
lots and parcels of ground proposed
to be assessed for the cost of the said
Improvement, and the names OF the
owners thereof, so far as known. and
the amount to be assessed against
each lot or parcel OF ground, and that
said plat and schedule are now on
file in the office of the city clerk OF
the city of Keokuk, and that within
twenty days after the first publication
of this notice all objections to such
assessments, or to the prior proceed
fngs on account of errors, irregular
tiles or inequalities, must be made in
writing and flied with the said clerk.
Any objection not so made will be
deemed waived.
Date of first publication July 18TH,
1914.
O. w. SANDBERG,
City Clerk.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17

rected at his jaw and missed by
inches landed the fight would have
been over. This blow threw me off
my balance and slipped to the floor.
I would have preferred to have put
Smith out than gain decision because
of foul and for that reason am anxious
to meet him again that may demon
strate beyond any doubt that I am
his master"
Most sporting experts agree today
that the foul was unintention and
that Smith did not realize Carpenter
was down until too late to withhold
the blow already started. They agreed
that Referee CORR could not over.
look the blow in view Of Carpenters
apparent distress, though many
charge this was simulated
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
REVOKE SUSPENSION
OF BOYS SENTENCE
Fred Frazier Must Serve Time in An.
amosa According to Order Of
Court This Afternoon.

In the district court this after
noon. the suspension OF the sentence
Of Fred Frazer was ordered revoked
by the court and the young man who
has been paroled, must go to Ana
mosa to serve his sentence. Frazer
and his brother were given sentences
recently, and Doth were paroled. The
court ordered the suspension of sent
ences revoked this afternoon.
Frasers admission to Chief Kenney
that he was the one who entered Nc
Graths is responsible for the revoking
of his parole.
The jury has been excused for the
term.
An order was made this afternoon
setting Monday as the time for the
probating of the will of I. NJ. Walters.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
SMITHSON ROUTED
BY CEDAR RAPIDS
Detroit Recruit Jerked In First In
nIng-TuttIe Holds Ansons to
Three Scattered Hits.

CEDAR RAPIDS, Iowa, July IL
Cedar Rapids knocked Smithson out
in the first inning and Hofer was jerk
ed on account of wildness in the third.
Hits and errors by Clinton won for
Cedar Rapids in the eighth, to 4. The
score:
Clinton POI 01O 0o0-4 5 8
Cedar Rapids $50 900 o2.-S 8 1
Batteries-Smithson Itchel1 and
barrow; Hofer, Harper and D4etz.
MARSHALLTOWN, Iowa. July IL
Waterloo defeated Marshallton today,
2 to 1, Tuttle holding the home team
to three scattered hits. Harter kept
Waterloo hits scattered and struck
out nine men. The score:
Waterloo 900 001 001-2 IL I
Marshalltown 200 O10 000-1 8 1
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
Skin Health Comes
From the Blood
Even Slight Eruptions Such A.
Acne Should Be Treated.

PimpIes and other skin troubles do not
alight on the face like flies. They come
bubbling out from within They are impur-
tiles. And II let alone or creased with
salves they become chronic, simply because
the cause Is still at work within. It should
be attacked with s. s. 8. and the impurities
in the blood thus rendered harmless.
The skin is but net work of fine blood
vessels. And 1t is a perfectly natural con.
that Is a condition Of i'll health makes its
first appearance in the skin. There are
certain medicinal properties that follow the
course Of the blood stream and the influence
Of these properties is that Of an antidote.
This Is why S. s. S., the best-known blood
purifier: has such positive action in the
skin. There is one Ingredient in 8. s. 8.
which peculiarly stimulates cellular or
glandular activity to select from the blood
or from this fine net work of blood vessels
in the skin, those elements which 1t re-
quires for regeneration.
Thus pimples, acne, eczema, lupus, or any
other blood condition that attacks the skin
or seeks an outlet through the skin is met
with the antidotal effect Of s. s. S.
This Is why skin troubles y1'tsh so
Under the influence Of s. 8. s. Ills fine
net work Of blood vessels in the skin Is
constantly taking from the blood the nutri-
tfon required for healthy tissue and the
cause Of disease is Just as constantly being
removed. scattered and rendered harmless.
These facts are more fully explained In
book on skin troubles sent by The Swift
Specific Co., 531 Swift Bldg, Atlanta, Ga.
You will find s. S. s. on sale at all drug
stores. Get bottle to-day and Danish all
skin Affections
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
ORIGINAL NOTICE.
State Of Iowa, Lee coun

State of Iowa, Lee county-ss.
In the district court Of said county,
at Keokuk for the September, 1914,
term.
J. H. Laycock. plaintiff, VS.. Adele
D. Laycock, defendant.-Original no
tlce.
To the above named defendant
You are hereby notified that on or
before September 1, 1914, petit
tition will be on file in the
clerks office of the district court
aforesaid at Keokuk in behalf of
the above named plaintiff, against
you and claiming decree of divorce
from you on the grounds Of desertion.
And unless you appear thereto and
defend before noon Of the second day
of the next regular September term
of said court, to be begun and holden
at Keokuk on the 21st day Of Septem-
Der A. D. 1914, default will be enter
ed against you and judgment rendered
thereon as prayed for in said petition
F. M. BALLINGER,
Attorney for Plaintiff.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
BOOSTER TICKETS
HAVE GOOD SALE
Members Of Committee start Work
Of Raising Money for Baseball
Club This Morning.

The members of the committee sell
ing booster tickets for the purpose OF
raising funds for the baseball club,
started their work this morning. The
one dollar tickets have received a
good sale among business houses and
factories in the city and it Is believed
that the plan of selling these tickets
will prove very successful. One mem
Der of the committee sold thirty tick
cts in a couple of hours this morning
while others have done even better.
There are ten mon on the committee,
and it is believed that each will be
able to dispose of one hundred or
more of the tickets inside of a couple
Of days.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
on tactics employed by two sutra-

on tactics employed by two suffra-
getes arrested in the vicinity of q
south London church. A policeman
had been detailed there 20 watch for
possible arsonettes when he saw the
two women acting suspiciously. Both
struggled fiercely when arrested. The
officer held them, one by each hand,
however, and dragged them toward
the police station until one OF the
prisoners, lifting the policeman's coat
from behind, cut his suspenders.
Choosing the lesser of the two evils,
the policeman promptly released his
captives.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
DRINK MORE WATER
! # KIDNEYS BOTHER
Eat Less Meat and Take Salts for
Backache or Bladder
Trouble.

Uric acid in meat excites the kid
neys, they become overworked; get
sluggish, ache, and feel like Jumps Of
lead. The urine becomes cloudy; the
bladder is irritated, and you may be
Obliged to seek relief two or three
times during tho night. When the
kidneys clog you must help them
flush off tho body's urinous waste or
you'll be real sick person shortly.
At first you feel dull misery in tho
kidney region, you suffer from back
ache, sick headache, dizziness. stom-
ach gets sour, tongue coated and you
feel rheumatic twinges when the
weather is bad
Eat less meat, drink lots OF water;
also get from any pharmacist four
ounces of Jad Salts; take a table,
spoonful in a glass of water before
breakfast for few days and your kid
neys will then act fine. This famous
salts is made from the acid of grapes
and lemon Juice, combined with lithiG,
and has been used for generations to
clean clogged kidneys and stimulate
them to normal activity, also to nell
tralize the acids in urine, so 1t no
longer is a source of Irritation, thus
ending bladder weakness.
Jad Salts is inexpensive, cannot in.
lure: makes delightful effervescent
Whitewater drink which everyone
should take now and then to keep the
kidneys clean and active. Druggists
here say they sell lots OF Jad Salts to
folks who believe in overcoming kid
uey trouble while it is only trouble.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1914-07-17
COUNCIL. MEETING
LAST EVENING
Official Representatives Elected and a
List Of Those Who Will Attend
General Conference.

Last evening there was called
meeting Of the council held at the Y.
bic BidweN and Marguerite Loewen-
stein were elected as official repre-
sentatives to Geneva. The list OF
girls to date who will attend the con-
ference at Geneva is as follows:
Emile Pence, Meta Hummer, Caro-
line Kuntz, Mary Albertson, Jennie
Young. Gail Simpson, Irma Cameron.
Lora Pagett, Mary Young, Emma
Writ, Marguerite Loewenstein, Abb
bic Bidwell and Florence O'Brien.