The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-03-29
Once Again Paris Fashion Makers
Turn to the Venus de Milo

classic draperies. recall the fact that
| made this statement at a moment
when ia ligne' was exaggeratedly boy
ish. II not saucy. The student OF dress
must know how to read between the
lines of fashions dictates. He. must
know how to read the minds of the
autocrats who rule the world Of dress
long before those autocrats have ex-
pressed themselves in words.
OF recent days women have been
boyish In outline Now they are go
ing to be very feminine; they are go
ing to look soft and gracious and in
tensely womanly. One might add that
In the near future women are going to
look motherlke, for the Milo Venus Is
exaggeratedly motherly in type and 1t
is from her that the "ligne" Of to-mor-
row viii come.
/ was discussing this matter with one
of the best known Partisan dressmakers
recently and / told him frankly that !
believed the fashions Of tomorrow
would make women look older than do
the fashions of to-day. He smiled mys-
teriously. And then / recalled the fact
that this particular dress artist holds
the view that a woman who wishes to
hats which might seem a little too old
for her instead OF those which seem a
little too young. At all events we shall
soon have an opportunity of testing the
great mans theory, for the fashions OF
the coming summer and autumn will be
nlatronly in comparison with those OF
the last two or three seasons.
A very curious style Is being shown
hy a nnn3y}or a lfer In tho p1nce
Yendome In Paris. This is distinctly
balloon skirt which is pear shaped at
either end The models which were
shown to me on the occasion of my last
visit were both made of taffeta, and
both were rucked at intervals and
slightly stiffened.
At the waist the skirt Is gathered
into a band. the fulness being equal all
just over the hips. the second at the
knee line: then the skirt is frightened
in at the hem and worn over a petit
coat of pleated lace. The outline is
bizarre, to say the least, for the skirt
stands away from the figure in front
as we'll as at the back. Only very
graceful and courageous woman would
dare to wear such garment. but Il
of its own.
These rucked skirts were In fashion
about five years ago, but at that time
they were not stiffened in any way. /
am not a believer in the crinoline scare,
but If these elongated balloon skirts
really become popular l shall resign
myself to the inevitable, for they would
indeed represent the thin end OF the
wedge.
Redfern is making some wonderfully
smart little coates this season-curi-
Gus. apparently shapeless garments
which make chic women look adorable
and ordinary women rather ridiculous.
These coates recall the bolero in some
respects. but in others they are quite in
dlvidual.
AS rule they have very long sleeves
caught In at the wrist IN bishop style,
but on some of the more eccentric
models I have seen threequarter length
leg o'mutton sleeves of curious outline.
A curious fact connected with these lit
tie coates is that they are short wasted
while the skirt over which they are
worn Is banded in at the normal waist
line, even a little below It. This gives
a peculiar effect, but one which has a
certain attraction In certain circum-
stances.
Without exception these short coates
are worn over corsages or blouses with
decolete necks. The throat Is left quite
bare, unless a medicis collar in linen or
wired lace is introduced. The rage for
decollete day blouses continues. High
necked guimpes are quite the exception.
Another curious point connected with
the coates to which have just alluded
is this: They are very often cut up In
a point In the middle Of the back some
are even gathered up and fastened by
handsome buckle.
a very smart Redfern model was
composed of black and white checked
cloth and heavy make OF black satin.
The surface of the satin was dull. The
satin was arranged in deep bias folds
on the round skirt and was also used
for the bolero coatee which had long
tight sleeves and which was worn over
fine white linen blouse with a high
medicis collar. A very original sash,
also in black satin. was passed round
the waist and then drawn down at
either side of the front, the ends be
ing thrust through two long button
holes, worked in the skirt. one mag
ined that these ends were tied under
meath.