davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-03-15

signs. are featured in the new gowns.
Cotton crepe. plain and figured, also is
widely used
Cheruit uses it and showed one model
of white cotton crepe with black
velvet jacket that was good. But for
warm weather wear the white crepe
frocks with short Jackets made Of
plaid, or striped or plain taffeta, are
more acceptable.
In these thin frocks the silhouette
that has held sway throughout the win
ter is still followed-the skirts are mar
row about the ankle, full through the
hips; the waists are loose. often shape
less.
Now and again a bodice that suggests
the tight ones of the time of Louis XVI
or the second empire is seen. But it is
usually made of silk or satin, and there
is little likelihood that any thin bodices
will be built on tight-fitting lines.
Linen may come back gradually into
favor. Some frocks made of linen-plain,
embroidered. brocaded and checked-are
shown. And the colored linen blouse, to
wear with heavy coat suits that was
worn in the winter, probably will be
worn throughout the summer But col
ored blouses always must be carefully
worn II they are to be effective. Usual
ly with a colored suit white or self
colored blouse is best, and although a
pale violet or faded pink linen blouse
sometimes may be charming when worn
with white skirt, white blouse is
surer.
A summer frock that is full of sug-
gestions is one that is sxetched today. It
was worn by an actress at one of the
theaters here. and although it is de-
cidedly simple. it has attracted a good
deal of attention. 1t is made of white
Evening star., 1914-03-15
AT THE WAIST LINE.

A LMOST every dress is touched up al
"A the waist with some form OF girdle,
belt or sash. The wide-draped STYLES are
new. and also the button-oyer forms.
which are extremely straight IN cut ana
give the effect of waistcoat- Some are
cut slightly below the waist line, put
others are made to come well over the
hips being almost as deep as skirt yoke.
Sashes may be fastened in the back or
in the front, with broad tailored bows
and tapering ends finished with fancy
ornaments. Sometimes the sash winds
about the waist the ends crossing over
and falling over the hips, being loosely
tied at the back.
The sash. which is partially concealed
by panniers or drapery. is very smart, es-
sash to slip under the pannier and come
out in the center front of the skirt, fall
ing from this point to the skirt edge in
tapering outline. A heavy ornament
weights the end The streamers of some
sashes instead of falling straight to the
bottom of the skirt are looped and drawn
through the fashionable bouffant hip
draperies.
There are many pretty dresses which
button straight down the front or
straight down the back considerably
below the normal waist line, where
the bodice joins sash drapery which ties
around the hips and knots in a big loose
bow at the back. These sashes are often
in strong contrast to the body OF the
dress. They may be in brilliant plaids
match the sash. the result being very
gay-colored dress.
The new tie-backs are sash forms which
are placed below the panners and hold
back the fullness of the skirt A bow and
short ends are the usual finish. In addi-
ton to ribbons, soft sashes of dress ma
terial are used. especially In taffeta, moire
and corded weayeA
Evening star., 1914-03-15

ironing and use moderately hot iron.
When slightly dry remove the muslin
and iron first on one side and then on
the other. Should the silk feel in the
least hard after ironing, shake it and
rub 1t between the hands. and then iron
again.
To renew black silk wipe it off with
cloth dipped In strong coffee, then
allow it TO dry. after which press on the
wrong side. 1t will then have a new
appearance. Old black silk may also be
renovated by sponging with spirits of
ammonia. Sponging with chloroform will
remove a stain from silk without leaving
a mark. Another good method is to wipe
the stain with cloth that has been
moistened in soda water, afterward rub
binS with a dry cloth. Sponging with
a solution, of two-thrds ammonia and
chloroform and onethird water is also
effective. Remove a stain from white
silk by carefully applying peroxide of
hydrogen.
To prevent delicate silks from becom-
ing yellow when packed away. thickly
sprinkle fine-shaven bits of white wax
among the folds.
Evening star., 1914-03-15
Dainty BIouses.

THERE is an almost endless variety
from the simple hemstitched wais'
to wear with tailored morning suit to
the finest, softest and sheerest of blouses
Many are of tulle, entirely unlined. Few
are made wholly Of lace, but lace Is used
in combination. There are many new
cotton voiles. crepes and mercerized cot
tons that are sheer. very attractive and
practical.
The fashionable blouse is V-shaped.
open in front, with soft surplice folds,
standing collar at the back only and full
length. unlined and transparent sleeves,
which are finished in various ways.
Some are odd-shaped and slashed with
inserts that gracefully fall at one side or
the other. The leading colors are yell
lows, in shades of amber, lemon and new
gold. In pink there is dainty apricot
and a soft wild rose shade. and in blue
a forget-me-not and a gentian. These
colors are often combined with white IN
spring and summer blouses.
Evening star., 1914-03-15

Merveilleuses full of interesting cos
tunes and bright lines-and it also has
made its appearance on the heads OF
women of fashion.
The drectoire bonnet in the sketch was
worn in Les Merveilleuses. II is made
of lace, with big pearl ornament fasttn-
ing a pale pink aigrette and black para
disc feather-the aigrette pointing M
ward. the paradise feather sweeping the
shoulder.
Unfortunately-or fortunately. according
to your point of view-this gorgeous plum
age is denied to us at home. But some of
the most effective bonnets of this PERIOD
are much simpler
Mrs Frank Gould has worn one OF
brown straw. 1t is trimmed with a band
of brown ribbon about the crown, fas-
tened with a simple red rose.
The small hat is still the rue ana
many of the most effective are toaues
that are worn well down over one eye.
tilted to show the hair on the other side
And the most effective of them are biach.
Evening star., 1914-03-15

cotton crepe with a loose blouse and a
skirt slightly draped about the hips. and
pulled = little at the knees in back
The on.y' trimming is an apron. embroid-
on with long red velvet tie strings that
are fastened. well below the waist in
back in loose bow
The collar Of this frock is interesting.
1t is made of net and, behold. it is high.
That is to say, it is almost high. 1t is
not one Of those tight-fitting, choking
collars that curve up under the ears as
if the collars were there to hold the ears
on. But nevertheless it is high collar:
About the top there is band Of red
velvet. The full sleeves end just above
the wrist in double net frill.
The sleeve, that ends just above the
wrist, is often awkward in appearance.
comfortable as it is to wear. The double
frill of net is a good finish for such a
sleeve, for it gives just the softening
touch needed.
There has been a good deal of talk
about high collars. But there have not
been many high collars. Occasionally
one is seen-like the high stock OF the
Directoire. the Incroyab.e collar. But
most of them are low.
The japanese collar is a favorite with
many of the designers. 1t is modified
in many ways, of course. but it is the
collar which preserves the N-shaped line
in front and which is high at the back
the collar that most women prefer 10
wear
Paquin's latest idea is the neck line
which shows a deep decolletage in the
back and which is moderately high in
front. This neck outline. on a frock that
is longer in front than in back. and one
with tunic that is straight in back and
full in front, as some Of the new ones
are. makes one quite sure that the
wearer is walking backward.
Besides the japanese collar and the In
croyable. there is the Marie Stuart-the
wired. fiaring lace collar-the Normandy
peasant collar and the Gladstone that
widens out in stiff points on each side of
the chin.
The new organdie collar is interesting.
Its sheerness and daintiness make 1t at
Evening star., 1914-03-15

foppish In the extreme. the styles they
gave prominence to are strong and sane
influence. You remember how they got
their name-those well dressed. overfas-
tidious gentlemen?
.'Ah," they used to exclaim. dropping
their rs as our dudes of comic paper
fame did several years ago. upon my
word of honor, it's unbelievable" Only
they said. Ma petite pa'ble d'honneu'.
cest incoyable.''
So. with all their mannerisms. they were
called the unbelievables. the incredibles-
the Incroyables.
And the styles they fostered, good and
bad go by the name Incroyable.
Presumably it is only the good forms
these styles that we have made use of.
And there is much good in them.
One of the things that have been con-
sidered good is the Directoire bonnet. II
made its appearance in play-"Les
Evening star., 1914-03-15
Modish High Collars.

EVERY collar. whether on jacket or
:! waist, is open and high, often sup
ported by wires or crinoline Innings. Coat
collars in three different colors are very
dressy. For instance, tan-colored suit
may have three high standing collars.
one of black satin. another of vivid red
taffeta and the inside one of crisp white
organdy. A rosebud is a pretty finish at
the front point of these collars. It. is
always in one of the colors used in the
collar A set of these triple collars and
rosebud gives smart finish to a simple
dress. Collar, cuff and yoke sets of white
0rgandy are dainty for dresses Of silk or
gabardine serge,
Evening star., 1914-03-15

hats than one made of plaid or striped
taffeta, and don't give way to your desire
for plaid hat until you have thought
over the matter carefully A black hat
can be becomingly worn with frocks OF
every color And more than that, q back
hat is not remembered by every one who
sees it as a bright hat Is likely to be re-
membered, 4 third point In its favor has
the black hat: it is more generally becom-
ing than a colored one.
Don't wear a color just because You
have noticed that it is often used in de-
scriptions of the clothes shown in the
French openings. Tango. for instance. is
somewhat trying color to many COM
plexions So are some of the odd blue
and green shades. Remember that black
and white and dark blue are always capa-
Bile of being made to look fashionable,
and that they are becoming to most per-
sons
Evening star., 1914-03-15
Pretty Napkin Rings:


Get some heavy Italian linen. cut
~ it in the proper shape and button
hole around the edges in colors to
match various sets of china, or work in
a special decoration CT fruit. Measure
an obiong piece OF Ii. IN, just the right
length to go aroun4 he napkin, cut
ting into point at one end ring
Is crocheted on this point to slip 0 .er
u crochet button fastened to the other
end. For the children the name may
be outlined In script The guest may
have a ring with the word Welcome"
outlined, or any symbol deuoting, well
come. When laundered the rings may
be stiffiy starched to make them more
solid.
To make emergency napkin rings,
take an envelope made Of the best linen
paper. Paste the envelope closed and
cut off the ends, forming a napkin ring
of the usual width. Write the name
across the center.
Evening star., 1914-03-15

spring fashions.
There has been vague feeling OF
disappointment on the part of all who
have seen the new clothes. Where are
the startling features that we all ex-
pected?
They don't exist
Instead of minaret tunic. daring in
its difference from accepted lines, thrill
ing in its suggestion of orientalism. the
model that attracts much attention is
dubbed the garden party" frock. 1t
suggests English buns and fiower-laden
hats instead of the romance Of the
east. or perhaps it is an interesting
combination OF plaids and stripes and
plain surfaces.
Wanting something startling, We
should be thankful for the small thrills
that are vouchsafed to US. And we are
On the whole the gowns shown have
been pleasing. at least. And they have
seemed practical and wearable, as we'll
That is something to be thankful for.
For Americans. who always have one
eye open, after the first Of March, for
frocks that will be comfortable in our
warm summer. the thin models shown
are interesting.
Poplin and linen, printed in calico de-
Evening star., 1914-03-15

skirt in the form of tuna Sometimes
the skirt is plato or stripedsand the tunic
is plain.
The newest tunlc Is long. 1t reaches
quite to the shoe tops, and 4 flares at the
bottom. And as the new skirts end not
far below the shoe tops, is will be seen
that the new tunics reach almost to the
bottom Of the skirts.
cheruit seems TO be especially interested
in these long n.:ring tunicY, which sug-
gest the lines OF the apro5s which this
house featured last season. And Cheruit
also favors long coats farin,s at the back,
and made in cutaway fashion over the
hips. So it seems that if:you want to
wear a long coat you ma: do SO. For.
although most of those snesHn are short.
Evening star., 1914-03-15

tractive But one is sometimes surprised
to see really substantial collars of or
candle on chiffon or net blouses of the
sheerest sort.
Not quite collar is the Capucine hood,
which is shown on some of the new suits.
It is made of lace on scme of the new
blouses, too, and on an evening gown of
silver brocade there was a long hood Of
real lace.
Plaids and stripes are apparently here
to stay They are used sometimes alone.
but more often in combination with plain
colors.
There are many coat suits consisting of
a short coat of plaid or striped silk worn
with skirt Of plain color. In others the
plaids or stripes are introduced into the
Evening star., 1914-03-15
In Pink and White.

A DAINTY dress is made of pale pink
and white striped gauze. pleated
so that only the white shows. with a
band at the hem of pink and silver EN-
broidery. When the wearer moves or
sits down the pleats part or droop over
the combining band and the pink be-
comes visible The bodice is made with
two fichus. the inner. of white. crossing
the outer. which encircles the shoulders
narrowing into a pink sash Fastening
at the back with long ends fringed
with silver. --
Evening star., 1914-03-15

:: s.
There are many variations on the long
and fiaring tunic. An interesting evening
gown is shown in one Of today's sketches
with a tunic that reaches almost to the
ankles in the back. In the front it is
shorter. And it flares decidedly about the
bottom
Ihe foundation gown is made of white
I charmeuse, a material that is still found
most acceptable by many of the designers
for evening gowns. The tunic is made of
black tulle. wired about the bottom and
finished with jet beads There is a far
ing tunic of the tulle, run with fine tucks,
and long tulle sleeves that reach well over
the hands.
The long sleeve is effectively used in
many afternoon and some evening frocks
Worth makes a speciality of black taffeta
afternoon frocks with long chiffon
sleeves. trimmed with ostrich and ruch-
ings of taffeta. and Worth uses no short
sleeves in the afternoon
Some of the long transparent sleeves
are fitted close to the arm. Others are
full, and are gathered in about the wrist
with band OF ribbon. or silk or velvet,
and finished with little fril over the
hand.
Doucet uses both short and long sleeves
for afternoon frocks. and most of the 9TH
er houses show sleeves of both lengths.
VI:
The directoire period is not responsible |
for the Incroyable collar alone. Direc-
toire influences are seen in many Of the
new clothes.
Doucet. especially. makes generous use
Of the styles of the directoire and he
names them for the French dandies of
that period. He has an Incroyable collar. |
an lncroyable wGistcoat. Incroyable |
stripes and Incroyabse coats.
Although the men who called down on |
themselves the title "Incroyables'' were |
Evening star., 1914-03-15

Jet is more profussly used than ever.
Evening star., 1914-03-15
Special Correspondence Of The Star.

)W that the openings are vir-
tually over ii is possible to
gather together ones i'm
pressions and come to some
definite conclusions about the
Evening star., 1914-03-15

many are little more than boleros, those
of Cheruit are often long
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1914-03-01

A gallery Of New Mexico governors
such as will grace the walls of the re-
ceptlon room of the ola Palace re-
placing the lovely water colurs Of
~aflos Nierra and covering pictures
Of mission churches. pueblos and In
dians by Sharpe and Cassidy one
haldly reads in the faces of the grim
Nisaged dignitaries which included n
Lew Wallace and a half dozen more
characters Of national fame. thar
they presided over some Of the gavest
society events in this very same re-
eepuon room. Forsooth tradition
rather than history. has it that some
or the social affairs were more bois-
ferrous than elegant, and that some
OF those dignified gentlemen who now
look upon the SAINTS Fe world with
such calm eyes, were inyeterata
gamblers and tipplers, ana were AS
Wen acquainted with the interior of
the Wide-open gambling palace az
thelf day as with the interior Of their
executive office in the palace. for re-
member for exactly one hundred gov
errors, men OF all kinds occupied tho
palace not only for executive pnr-
poses, but also as their home In
Iaet one governor kept n honrdlns
house on the side. in the Old Palace
ana what some other governors didn't
Keep on the side would make inter
estlhg reading, too. But taken an In
~. they were q vigorous lot Of gen
llemen' refined, cultured aud patriot
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1914-03-01


Donald Bcauregard. the artist, Is
getting along famously with his panels
lon the life and work Of st. Francis dc
Assist for the New Mexico building
lat the san Diego exposition. Incl
penlally eager purchasers are snap
ping up some Of the beautiful can
vases he painted in Paris and Munich
so that hardly enough remain for a
proposed Beauregard exhibit in the
historic reception room Of the palace,
although there will be enough in town
to make q good showing in the pro-
posed loan art exhibit To be given
under the auspices Of the auxiliary.
Mr. Beauregard is far along with his
triple panel, depicting Santa Clara di-
vesting herself Of her rich garments
to assume the lowly habit of the san
tranciscans. IL is a gorgeous COM
position, vivid i'm conception and great
in color An Albuquerque girl. Miss
trimmer, posed for one Of the fig
ures in saint Clara's encourage. Dir.
Standby @. Small furnished the face
Tor st. Francis and a noble face il is
as the saint bends over to heal the
leper and Poverty in the person of
Miss Bergere looks on with approval
Tor CHASTITY, Miss Sawyer posed and
Charity has borrowed the face of Miss
Pollard. Miss Beatrice Seligman sat
for Saint Clara. For the pious hypo-
critic In Saint Clara's encourage. who
throws up his hands I'm holy horror
AZ the sight of Saint Clara rejecting
her wealth for poverty. we'll known
santa Fe business man, one of the
meekest gentlest and most sincere
OF men, has kindly sacrificed him
self on the altar Of art while for
the noble conquistadore on horseback
there are several candidates who are
not averse TO live for an time In that
pose. And that is only one of the
seven great mural paintings TO be
executed this year I'm that quaint lit
tie studio ia the west end of the
palace, with It's square vlgas. its
deepest windows and skyHghts its
sketches ana paintings on the wall
and an the accessories that smell and
remind OF Bohemia and the Latin
quarter or J.. @. as the favored att
PENDANTS Of the studio teas call IL ia
brief.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1914-03-01

on Tuesday evening, literary and
musical santa Fe viii be given one Of
I the rarest treats ever offered them
I Under the auspices of the Archaeolog-
ical society Mrs l. II. Rabp win giv.,
a dissertation on Los Pastores fhs
New Mexico miracle play. still par-
formed annually around Christmas
time In every Spanish town of con-
sequence from Conejos on the north
10 Cnernavaca on the south and
from Anton Chico in the east IN san
Rafael In California. on the west And
a wonderful play 1t is in its purity
its fine musical passages. its native
eloquence Bereft OF buffonrv inter-
nolated IN late years, it is as inspiring
as the 0her Ammergua play. Mrs
Rapp has made a study OF the Vari.
Gus versions as given al Taos. Mora
Santa Fe and other points This lee,
tnre will be the introduction 10 a com
plete rendition Of the play al tho
session OF the summer school M
which the chorus work Is Ia he direct
ed BY Miss Mary McFie Of me Univer.
slty OF New Mexico.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1914-03-01

has also been made in the program,
which is 10 be as follows.
Minuet in G-Beethoyen. William
King.
March Tannhauser-Wa Wagner Hor-
tense switzer
Thistledown Caprice ~ Mueller
irene Partch
Gayotte- Gossec. Arthur Becker.
Spring Song-Mcndellsohn. Chester
Paper-Lire of Ole Bun. Beatrice
Hill
Flowers and Ferns--Keiser Gladys
Harris.
Miller
souyenir--Dldle. Ethel Kieke.
yalse Capriee-seybold. Grace
stortz.
Trio scrcnade-Gounod Ralph and
Chester Miller Frank Scheck.
Miss Louis Lowber, accompanist.
= = 4
NOTES OF SOCIETY.
Mrs. George Eyeritt will entertain
informally on Tuesday in honor Of
Mrs. Hugo c. Meyer.
=
Friends OF Mrs. Felix Lester have
received word that She has left Wash
ington to join Mrs Alfred Grunsfeld
in New York Mrs. Lester and Mrs
Grunsfeld viii enjoy tho grand opera
season together
=
Mrs, win Springer left last week
for lei Paso to visit her sister, Mrs
Ralph Hunt and also to meet her
husband, who is expected to arrive in
III Paso in a few days from New Or
leans.
=
A pleasant afternoon was enjoyed
Tuesday by the members of the Won
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1914-03-01

mans Missionary society of ~. III
tral Avenue Methodist chnrnb en-
were entertained at the homo x , VINO
Giyan on South Walter streot u MRS.
= 4 4
Mrs r. NJ. Barton will sing NJ no
morning service at the Coneresa ~ .le
al church today Mrs. Barton bofaa-
her marriage to Dr. Barton Of ~ tbe =
University Of New Mexico a, 'ne
church singer in Madison ana Pan \
du Lac, Wisconsin, ana Albneuaroou,ua
is pleased to welcome this latest 4 da
QUESTION to the ranks Of its talented
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1914-03-01
MNr m AMlln

once upon = tlmp 20 ihe story
e8NH there was clergy NAN with d
dfoll sense ol hunHr Who otter be-
ginning the rrfvlees IN the cnHtumRFs
manner The i.utd De- ln Tia holy
temple. had a habit of adding soto
foee, "Ihe sexton win rldfe the door
az once
This yaru was tald me ~ the Grass
widow who isnt hlwAyH M pnriicu-
Jar aa she should he about her tafnei
and suppose me ministers. Il ans Of
Them over d. Hu frivolous "a thing uH
H. rrnd those lines of mine. viii BE-
shocked At tao Halfilope nf H. It's
the only thina that / CON think Of
however, that illustrates litUuEy the
present atfnphied condition 90 society
Tine ecst0n has smut The door nH
II 90 keep the lrntcn atmosphere
from escaping N0bndY o. giving any.
thing. ana nobody b nhing about
giving anything. Everybody l8 Just
sitting around iWiddrng their thumbs
and its nR a. issk iike they enjoyed
IT.
~ course. ID won't fast The horri
Bile dulueas IF the last week would
sfear 90 lhr most plous nerves ia
time Somebody viii start something
before "a Neif grent while. Nothing
brilliant "a in De- expected until after
Easlfr hui the waters nrl APT no Dee
Ella ripping Ia quiet way almost
amy time nov.
Nut white $50 ave Waltine for Hume-
thing o. HAPPEN, uln't 10 nNful'
he who does not 'hosItate Is