davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pullman herald. [volume] (Pullman, W.T. [Wash.]) 1888-1989, 1914-04-03

resorts to some or all of the following
methods of *adulteration
/. by combination.
(a) Raw fibers are mixed before
spinning. Cheap suitings and flannels
are conspicous examples of this
method
W Two single yarns are twisted to-
gether. The so-called "salt and pep
per effect is obtained by this method
In cheap suitings the black, shoddy
yarn Is twisted with white cotton yarn
In the better class goods this effect is
secured with silk and worsted yarns.
(c) Two different fibers are used in
warp and filling. Mixed poplins and
hrilliantine serve to illustrate this
method
z. By adulteration-Selling one
fiber under the name of another.
This is one of the chief methods of
adulteration, as we'll as one of the most
Objectionable. Examples:
(a) Artificial silk sold for silk.
(b) Mercerized cotton sold for silk
or linen.
(c) Cheviot shirting-a material
made totally of cotton.
d. Cotton worsteds contain no trace
of wool.
(e) "Linen mesh" has been pro
duced solely from cotton yarns.
(f) "'All-wool" union suits have
been found to contain about fifty per
cent cotton.
In this case the price was reason
able and garment was good, yet why
should the consumer be deceived by
false labelling?
g. By supplying a deficiency in
weight with chemicals called filling
materials"
(a) Silk is the most beautiful and
the most precious of all textile fibers,
consequently it is adulterated more
than any other A fabric sold as "all
silk" will contain no other textile
yarn, but it may be adulterated with
weighted dyes to such an extent that
the material may consist of two-thirds
adulterant-mineral salts-and only
one-third silk
(b) Some cheap table damasks have
been found to contain as much as fiji
teen per cent dressing. After they
have been Numbered several times all
the starch is removed, leaving a fabric
Of cheese cloth weight and appearance.
For the same price mbleached damask
or German linen may be purchased,
which is attractive and exceedingly
desirable.
4. By giving a deceptive finish.
(a) Stamping paste dots on cotton
to initiate embroidered swiss.
(b) Finishing cotton to look like
linen.
5. By making narrow cloth
1t costs the consumer less per yard,
but more per garment, as narrow goods
does not cut to advantage.
6. By the use of made-over yarns.
The wool supply of the world can
meet only about one-half of the de-
mand. Yet there are wool goods and
,,ooI ,,,;x+,,rac for tho maiOritV of tha
Pullman herald. [volume] (Pullman, W.T. [Wash.]) 1888-1989, 1914-04-03
Selection of Clothing.

The principle involved in the selec-
ton and the preparation of food IS
applicable to the selection and con-
structiOn of clothing and hOusefurnish-
ings. Does she know the cause for the
fluctuation of prices in textile ma
terials? If she has a small income and
yet must appear well dressed can she
substitute cheap material for an ex-
pensive one and get good effect in de-
sign and color and at the same time
secure durability and Appropriateness
The problem is infinitely harder, yet
equally as important The aesthetic
and the somewhat intangible element
enters into the problem to complicate
It's solution. For example, the pur-
chaser may believe that she has de-
signed the gown, yet when it is fin
lshed it is failure. Her aesthetic re-
quirement has not been filled AS a
result, the gown is shortly discarded
and therefore the money has been poor
ly invested.
The primary aim, then, in textile
study is to acquire knowledge which
will be the means Of saving money by
wise selection and at the same time
preserving health, securing comfort
and satisfying the desire for the beau
tlful. In order to be an intelligent
consumer one must have a knowledge
OF the general characteristics of the
chief textile fibers, their production,
preparation, manufacture, methods Of
adulteration and means of detection,
as well as the cause for the present
low standard of fabrics in general.
Inferior Goods.
The consumer is responsible, to a
very large extent, for the inferior
grade of goods. Manufacturers pro-
duce materials which the public de-
mands. This is particularly true i'll
America where goods must be both
cheap and pretty. Since there is no
distinction in this country as to class
or grade of society all sense or feeling
OF appropriateness of dress to station
Is lost. People in the most meagre
circumstances demand new and at
tractlve novelties at low price, instead
OF getting standard material at the
same price. For example: This sea-
son the market is stocked with varl-
ely of new cotton materials, web-like
IN weave and rough in surface. They
cost the consumer from thirty-five
cents to one dollar and half per
yard. With the exception of their
prettiness, when new, they have no
points In their favor. Shrinkage is one
OF the chief objections Some of these
fabrics shrink as much as three inches
per yard. Since they are strictly
novelty, dresses made from these ma
terlals will be discarded after one sea-
son, For the same price, one dollar
and fifty cents, beautiful quality of
linen may be had, which makes hand
Pullman herald. [volume] (Pullman, W.T. [Wash.]) 1888-1989, 1914-04-03
(a) Shoddy.
(b) Mungo.
(c) Extract.

The fibers are obtained from knit
ting mills, waste from tailor clippings
and from old clothes Dark and min
gled fabrics are more likely to contain
shoddy than the lighter ones, because
shoddy is produced from materials of
Pullman herald. [volume] (Pullman, W.T. [Wash.]) 1888-1989, 1914-04-03
Adulteration Methods.

In order to profit in his business he
resorts to some or all of the following
methods of *adulteration
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14

United Kingdom Great Britain including Can
ada, Australia other possessons), $3.50, 800 900;
Germany, s71.000,000; United States, $62 600 900:
France. 3S,O0OOOO; Italy s35000000; Belgium, s22,
100000. OF the total imports the United Kingdom
furnished 311 per cent; Germany 1863 per cent;
United States, A. per cent; France per cent;
Italy, S3 per cent Belgium, SO per cent. In other
words, over "a per cent of Argentinas imports in
1913 came from four of the European countries now
busiy engaged in trying TO exterminate another
The second question What and to whom does
the country sell? is about important the first
If Argentina can't sell her products, she can't get
the money to buy. That's pretty plain proposition
Now, what does she sell? Pre- eminently food prod
ucts, needed just now by the warning nations as
perhaps before. Last year Argentina sold
s300000,0O0 worth of agricultural products, consist
ing principally of corn. $112,OOO.OO0 wheat $1O3,-
600 600: nseed $50000000 s20,000000; barley,
100000; rye s567,OOO; potatoes fruits. hay, etc,
in smaller quantities.
OF live animals and products. she sold
sl66 100000 worth OF frozen beef 1000 tons
the United Kingdom; 3415 tons to Italy,
1882 the United States and 767 tons to
France Of frozen mutton 1871 went to the
United Kingdom, 254 tons to France and 245 tons
to the United States.
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
Our leaky Roof

The war in Europe whether brief or prolonged.
will effect a beneficial revolution of the industry
and commerce of this country. A short and violent
thunderstorm often proves the householder that
his dwelling needs new roof About IS per cent.
OF all the manufactures imported into this country
We're brought from the seven countries n
gagged in Many of these articles we get
no other source. else in very limited supply
from other There is hardly them
that could produce ourselves merely by the
development of industry for its production But
have neglected such industries just as few
years ago the farmers this valley bought all their
vegetables from Cinnamon and all the butter they
used their tables from grocery which had
imported it into the valley. The farmers could have
proftably produced these things themselves
The revolution in our productive industry will
he most marked in dhe manufacture of many things
we have hitherto received almost exclusively from
Germany such coal preparations aniline salts,
indigo potash quinne and other drugs for which
we paid more than s2O,OOO,OOO last year Germany
was not the original source of any of these goods.
They We're only manufactured there. We imported
Il million of potash salts, used chiefly in fer
tlizers and find that supply totally cut Off.
From France we have been buying silk goods,
automobiles and wines, argols, glycerin, essential
English walnuts except such furnished by
California.
We paid to England France and Germany last
year almost $60,00O,O00 for manufactured cotton
goods and nearly s2O.OOOOOO for cotton laces and
embroideries. These articles have mentioned
a very few of the entire list imports, the
materials for which did originate in the countries
from which bought them We were just
cessible to the regions which produced these mate
rails as the countries which prepared them for
use. In fact, supplied much of the cotton
which we afterward bought back in manufactured
form.
Already in this country many industries are
taking form and plans making for the extension
OF established industries. There will be ample cap
ita to finance our industrial and commercial revo-
luton, more that peaceful and profitable pur
pose than the European nations Will shortly find
available for carrying their wars. Phoenix
gentleman on his return from the east, in inter-
lately in The Republican, spoke of the patriot
ism of the large financiers who were ready to ad-
vance money for the promotion of any new indus
try which the country might need and which promised
success. The war has awakened and is driving
of a rut.
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
The FREIGHT Bill Tax

The proposal swell the by collecting
per cent on freight bills will be most unpopular
measure when it is once understood, and, for the
purposes of raising revenue will be most wasteful
method. Not nearly all the money of which the
payers of the tax would be mulcted would flow
into the national treasury. The people the consum
ers would pay this tax, just in the they pay
every indirect and as in the of every in
direct they would pay than the amount of
the tax imposed
The railroads, especially those of the east,
already clamoring for higher rates, and it is said
that the president is inclined the view that they
really in need of assistance 1t is altogether
likely that advance in will be ordered, not
only the roads, but in the end. those
west of Chicago well. If the 3 per tax is
imposed and collected from the roads, the will
be passed along the shippers and by them
merchants, wholesale and retail. A 3 per cent
tax1on freight bills would be small that it could
not be easily and equitably distributed the
1t would be too small to be divisabe. Yet
ii would have to be divided and it would be made
large enough somewhere along the line divided
A part OF it would be attached to every commodity
transported to consumers. Not only would every
such commodity take on higher price in conse-
quence of the tax but the prices of other
mOdteS would be AFFECTED. Inc producers, too,
would pay their full share the tax
AS war tax, a freight bill tax would be an
especially hateful one 1t is surprising that
many democratic congressman hesitate and ask that
before they proceed with it they may the
definite approval the president, who is thought
quietly favor it But they want open state
ment which they quote to inquiring and dissatis
fled voters
The same congressman still sturdiy guard
ing the pork barrel They willing to release
only 1885, 600 from it, The pork barrel is
pected be a factor in many doubtful congress
sional district 1t is question with congressman
whether the benefits will confer upon their
constituents may not offset the resentment which a
tax will create They trust that the voters may
become of the fact that at least half the
will go into the pork BARREL" that if it were
rot the proposed waste of the public money con
templated in the rivers and harbors BILL the need of
a war tax would not be urgent
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
WHAT AND WHERE ARGENTINA BUYS AND


A foreign trade of nearly billion dollars a year
is enough to make the exporters and importers of
the United States sit and take notice of
try and Argentina crowded that figure last year To
be little more exact it about $3.50 600 That
is nearly $125 per capita. The foreign trade of the
United States is about $4420 per capita Evidently
Argentina is trading nation, and the questions
what and from whom does that country buy, and
what and to whom does it sell? just of pc
cular Importance. This Pan European war is stir
ring up the business interests of the United States
they have been stirred before they want
to know number of things
In this connection the Pan-American Union,
Washington d. c.. publishes in the July number
of its monthly bulletin detailed review of the
merce of Argentina for 1913 which reveals very
important facts. For instance, e~find that in
tiles including manufacturers of silk. WOOL cotton
and other fibres Argentina imported nearly 100000
600 worth; iron, steel and manufactures thereof
the value of s50,000,0O0 railway cars, automobiles
and other vehicles worth $37,000,000: earths,
stone. coal, etc, nearly $37, 900; building mate
rails nearly $360OO00O, and food products $350O00O0.
These but six of the nineteen major classified
tons given in detail.
Who sold Argentina the goods? The following
the amounts i'll round numbers of the imports
from each of the leading six countries, given in Ar
gentine dollars and Argentine dollar is worth
about 81 cents in United States money: From the
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
Careful Talk
BY WALT MASON

OF course, We'll talk about the War-that can't
be helped by jings; for that is what were living
for talk vital things Wen talk until our
threats hoarse We'll jabber day by day, but let
u.s. in brave discourse be careful what we say
Why sit upon the grocer's bench stand along
the curbs, and roast the Germans the French
the AuStrianS Serbs? The justice of each
tons can't settled be by you, you'd be
wise to shelve your jaws, and your howdydo
The feeling $ too intense why make it
doubly deep? 'Twere better far paint your
fence, else dehorn your sheep This combat
gives ~ soul wrench, and the scading
brine: for l have friends among the French and
German friends mine; and there are Britishers
] love, and Russians admire and, oh, l hate see
them shove each other in the fire! How look for
ward to the day-God grant it may come
when all of them will to Stay and sound the
martial drum And meanwhile | do no good
by springng foolish talk | shall saw my pile of
wood and get my in shock.
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
FEAR" CAUSED DISCOVERY

The first to undertake extensive and impor-
tant explorations among the ruins of Babylon and
Nineveh Sir Henry Layard. who was born in
Paris ninety-seven years ago 1t was due to his
friendship for a, young man who had great fear
of seasickness that he was led to begin what was
to be his life work. Layard was educated and
started for Ceylon practice his profession.
He accompanied by another lad who had
horror of the ocean, and Layard readily agreed
when his companion suggested that they make the
trip by land Europe, Asia Minor. Persia ana
India. 1t while this journey that Layard
was inspired with the ambition TO delye among the
ruins the ancient cities of Asia When first
beheld the mounds of Nineveh'' he wrote, "a great
longing came to learn what was hidden
within them He yielded to the desire and largely
at his own expense, carried those excavations
at Babylon and Nneveh which were chiefly respon-
sible discovery of the lost records and relics
of a people who lived 5000 years ago. Many cities
and palaces including the palace of King Nebuch
adnezzar. upearthed by Layard and the most
valuable treasures of the British Museum serve to
commemorate his name and fame:-Milwaukee Sen
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14

out for air the first mate can tap keg of beer and
run the boat four miles the suds.
Steamboats, the beasts of burden for
the great Middle West and the city which could
be reached low water by steamboat with two
large hot stacks. % negro roustabouts on the bow
end and a gambler in the cabin wthered away and
died in infancy. But the railroad, which runs in
high water or low and does stab itself in vital
spot with a snag, came along and cleared the steam
boat out of business There only d few left
now which is a great pity, for the most decorative
part of great river is tall, white steamboat with
a chime whistle and flashing wheel in the far
foreground.
Steamboats, would still prosper if steamboat men
would go to school and learn how solicit freight
and how to load and deliver it without depending
on the outrageous and datory roustabout.
course in good cooking school would also produce
a grateful change in steamboat travel. The gov
eminent has spent hundred millions improving the
rivers but the steamboat hasn't improved in fifty
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
The Steamboat
BY GEORGE FITCH
Author of AT Good Old Siwash"

The steamboat is engine a raft with SILL,
600 worth of jigsam work around it.
Steamships built of steel and severely
plain except the inside where the millionaire Ou
rist is confined Steamboats, built of wood, tin,
shingles, and Irvine, and look like bride
of Babylon. If steamboat should into sea, the
ocean would take playful slap at it and people
would be picking up kindling on the beach for the
next eleven years.
However, the steamboat does not go to Its
home is the river, which does not rise up and
stand end in storm 1t is necessary that the
steamboat shall be light and airy because if it
heavy it would stick into the bottom OF the river
several feet and become island instead of means
of transportation.
The STEAMBOAT is from 100 300 feet long and
from 80 to so feet wide 1t is from 40 to 20 feet
high above water. but it does not extend more than
three feet into the This is because that is
all the water there is steamboat must be so built
that when the river is low and the sand bars come
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
Mere Whistiinq

The republican newspapers of California and
republicans who have returned from California
whstling loudly to keep their courage up. They
predict the defeat of Governor Johnson vocifer-
ously they proclaimed the subsistence of the pro-
gressve movement last summer during the progress
the registration. On surface showirgs their jub
lation then had greater warrant than their predic-
tons of the Johnson disaster have now, for, in the
light of the recent California primaries there APP
pears no ground on which such predictions can
reasonably be based
The primaries disclosed this fact: That while
more California voters were registered repub-
leans than were registered progressives, they
pressed most overwhelmingly, their preference for
such progressive candidates entered the repuo-
lcan primaries Governor Johnson did not do
yet many republicans and democrats wrote in his
name on the ballots of their primaries
Eshelman, Webb, Chambers and other progress
sives who did enter the republican primaries car
RED them against the avowed republican candidates
with the result that the republicans notwithstand-
ing their splendid registration showing, succeeded in
nominating at the primaries only two men Tor places
on their own state ticket Two of the progressives
carried only the republican primaries but also
the democratic state primaries
These progressive candidates who secured en-
dorsement republican primaries are the right
hand men of Governor Johnson. They have assisted
him in formulating and executing the progressive
state policies. They have had active and prom
inent part in those measures which republicans say
are so unpopular that they will the defeat of
the governor Yet there hostile expression
against the progressves at the polls. On the con-
trary, the expression was highly commendatory. We
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14

cannot but believe that if Governor Johnson had
elected go into the republican primaries, his
trusted lieutenants did, he would have been
Enthusiastically endorsed there they
The indications in California do not point in any
way his defeat, but, the contrary to a most
triumphant victory him, the progressive ticket
and progressive principles.
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14

HOW DID HE KNOW?

Mrs Bacon-Here is statement that there is
record of a Chinese state banquet lasting seven
teen hours.
Mr. Bacon--Must have had women speakers
puass-YOnkers Statesman.
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
LARRY,s IDEA OF HOME RULE

I.arry-Treshpassng, is ut? Just wait till we
git home rule. livery manll do he likes thin
and thims that won't II be made to!-Punch.
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
oKLAHoMA's OIL INCREASE

In 1895 the state of Oklahoma produced thirty
seven barrels of crude OIL At the present time the
production is $4,000 barrels daily.
Arizona republican., 1914-09-14
HIS SPECIALITY

Empoyer-Not afraid of early hours, suppose !?
Young Man-You can't close too early for me-
Charlevoix county herald. (East Jordan, Mich.) 189?-1953, 1914-10-24

jacques. Get your revolver ready if
necessary.
They were now in the center of the
Hindu quarter, where not a European
was to be seen. A few white forms
glided stealthily along in the dark
shadows of the wall. The night was
magnificent.
Now and again a Hindu would
burst forth into weird song. They
passed before several taverns which
were filled with Arabs and Hindus
Suddenly Smith and his companion
changed their course and went down
a filthy, narrow street with miserable
dwellings on either side.
There is something suspicious
about European working in an Of
flee at night" said Jacques, land who
turns off the light when he is discov-
cred NJ his work. and who comes INTO
the lowest quarters Of the city in
stead of going home to bed. See!
They are stopping"
They had reached a tract Of waste
ground. in the middle Of which was
low house almost in ruins. Smith
knocked on the door.
at looks like some bandits den
said Paul
The door of the hut was opened.
Soith went in With his companion.
How can we find ont what thew
are doing in there ?" said Paul
They've shut the door ct US get
as ncar as we con We might ne able
to see inside somehow"
They reached the little hut. Not
- 10
Thov walked around It,
owe must find out what sc going IN
inside" said Paul. Even if we cant
hear them, we ought to get look at
them.
"Cive mo your shoulder" whisner-
cd JACQUES. "Pm going to climb to
the top"
Paul hont down. ar in ro0nent
JACQUES had clamhored on the straw
roof which covered the shanty.
There was tinv skylight in the
roof. Jacques pulled aside some
wisns of straw and peered in.
"Can you see anvthing?" asked
Merseins softly from below.
dyes. Come up. I'll give you a
hand"
Soon thav wore both lvirr on tho
roof and able TO 500 clearly what WIS
nassinp inside They were LOOKING
down into q fair-sized room which
was hung with mattine. From the
front door three steps led down into
the room. The floor was Of earth.
Smith and his COMPANION were
standiro before a Hindu who was
suuatting on some cushions. The
walls were covered with strange Oh
iects-hones and skulls and all the
usual paraphernalia that the Hindu
fakirs show in their dens.
aft 7 saw room like that in Paris
] should say that It belonged TO y
fake fortune teller" whispered Paul.