davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Crochet Lace Edgng to Trim Spring Frocks.

Abbreviations: tr. treble oh. chain: c, double crochet; SD. space ins. insertion.
 This effective edging Is worked with No. 30 crochet cotton. The inner edge is formed with an insertion and instructions for work ing the same are given separately, so that it is afterwards referred to as l" Insertion"
 Directions for working " Insertion."-1st row. treble, 5 oh, miss of foundation, treble. 2d row-3 oh to form tr. tr, ch. under middle of oh of previous row ch 3 tr. space Is made by 1 tr. ch, miss oh of the foundation, 1 tr into 3d oh. A "tuft ' is made by working 6 tr in SD, then take out the needle and insert it into the first stitch of the group and draw tine cotton through and secure with one chain stitch. Commence with 2e oh for foundation. 1st row >l tr into eighth oh from needle, SD, first row of insertion" 2d row-Second row of insertion, SD. Sd row-10 oh. tr into eighth oh from needle, 2 ch, tr into last of pre- vious row. 3D. insertion. 4th row-Inser- ton, SD. 5th row-10 oh. 1 tr Into eighth
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Made of Shodow Lace.

A second blouse suitAble for the tailored suit can be made of all over cerise lavender or pale green shadow lace oyer q chiffon cloth foundation. Cut the lace on kimono lines. with sleeves ending about an inch below the elbow. The fronts form a neck nearly to the bust Nine. are cut straight for two inches, and from there slope sharply away fin an inverted to the waist line. ending midway to the underarm seam.
 Fill in this open space with pointed single breasted waistcoat of chiffon taffeta the color of the suit The back is continued on each side to form a two and half inch girdle slightly crushed over which the lace blouse droops as much as is becoming. This drop starts at the bottom of the inverted "
 The back of the neck has a wired Medici collar of the blue taffeta-a shaped frill of 1t trims the bottom of the sleeves, being put on almost plain--reaching about to the shoulder lines and from there the fronts are trimmed with two overlapping. inch wide ruffes of cream colored net These are carried around the point of meeting at the bust line and con tinue to the place where the ends and the waiSt begins to blouse over the girdls.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Boon 10 Middle Class Women.

Money would be saved and nerves rehabili- tated for that large order of women who em- ploy domestic workers in their homes and whose time and efforts are largely spent in vain effort to maintain regular domestic work through the use of a system based on aristocratic tradtion-a tradition that the age in which they live is declaring to be effete and contrary eo true democracy.
 The greatest benefit would come through these truly ideal kitchens to that large num- Der of women who. while far removed from the conditions of poverty yet give through their labor in kitchens . cruel and unremit- ting personal service to their families. For theses women cooperative kitchens would solve the problem of giving nourishment and service to their Families at the least possible expense of their time. For women who do not employ domestic workers a system could be arranged by which women would give their services in turn to the kitchen of their neighborhood organization. The great saw ing In money in the purchasing of food as before stated could be used in employing as- sistants to ease their labors. In this way every woman would spend some of her time in the kitchen. and most of her time out of the kitchen. and the families of such groups would be better and more cheaply fed.
 To all groups of people this last arrange ment is possible of application. For the vast laboring population In cities the use of cooperating kitchens would mean the edu- cation of that part of womankind In the good and proper use and cooking of foods. there- by establishing a better physical life for thsis families and eradicatng the diseases duo C underfeeding and improper feeding It re- quires only thought to prove that the estab. lishment of cooperative kitchens is a prac- tical possibility for all financially separated groups of people.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29

row. SD. 18th row. SD. 19tn row. SD. 2oth row-10 ch, 1 tr into eighth oh. oh, tr into last tr of previous row, continue spaces down side of spaces making 9 in all. join with sl st. 21st row-Slip up top of tr Cat corner). turn and make SD. 22d row-10 ch tr into eighth ch. SD. tr over 3 SD, SD, tr, 3 oh. catch into tr of 2Sth row, oh, tr into tr of 27th row. 23d row oh to form tr tr into tr of insertion at end of 26th row. slip back along tr just made. ch, tr Into 3 tr of previous row, SD 4 tr, tuft, tr, 3 SD. 24th row-3 SD, 9 tr. SD. tr, oh into oh of previous row. 8 oh, sl st into top tr, slip along side of tr 25th row-S oh to form tr tr, work these into side of tr. oh, tr. this for insertion. 9 SD. 2eth row-9 SD. ins. 27th row-Ins.. SD. 2sth row. SD, ins. 29th row-Ins., SD. 3oth row-5 SD, ins 31st row-Ins. 8 3D. s2d row-s SD, ins. sSd row-Ins, SD, and con- tinue from ad row before corner.
 To Edge Border-work c all round edg- ing. at each point make 5.ch between Sd and 4th d c.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
For Planting in Borders.

One of the old fashioned plants for planting in borders, where it's curious growth makes it attractive, is the graceful Soomon's seal Ii is increased by division of the roots, and has become known fine subject for fore ing, the roots being lifted from the open ground when the plant is dormant. Tuese may again be returned to the border after doing duty in the spring decoration of the conservatory. The plant is allied to the lily of the valley and although not so highly fragrant, when placed in water diffuses delicate odor. It should be brought alorg gradually, and not subjected to great heat
 It is time to procure the dry roots of ane mones and ranunculus. pretty towering plants, which being of neat habit are suit able for planting towards the margin of beds or borders.
 Make the soil free and good to the depth of at least a foot, then on the first dry daywhen the earth is not wet and adhesive, plant the tubers. covering the anemones about three inches, the ranunculus two inches. deep. The roots are best when rested on and just cov- cred with sand before placing the soi. on them. They may be arranged three inches apart in large or small groups or In lines. The growing crowns of anemones are indis- tinct. that 1t is safest to lay them in as flat as possible, the small clawlke clusters of ranunculus tubers being gently pressed downwards into the sand.
 The flowers of both are beautiful, for they are represented in many colors. The roo.s are, moreover, cheap; but not days delay should be allowed in procuring them, in o. der that they may be ready to hand for planting the first day the soil is dry enough to be worked freely.
 When the flowers wither and the leaves turn yellow ranunculus tubers should be taken up, dried, and stored in boxes Anemones may be either taken up or left in the ground. as may be most convenient.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Reduce Cost of Liping.

Of the many advantages to result from CO., operative kitchens, one would be that such departments would be large. light. and fit sanitary places for cooking They would have for the quickening of labor all saving devices. the purchasing of these conveniences made possible by the low cost of co6perativs ownership These kitchens would greatly re- duce the cost of living. they would make possible the purchase of food used in them at wholesale prices, and would cook it in the most economical manner, eliminating all waste In careful and scientific preparation.
 The neighborhood groups controlling these kitchens could meet the alarming rise in food prices due to co6perative production by co- could be served by a number of workers in- intesimal In proportion to the number en- gagged in preparing and serving food in the or- dinary home kitchens of today. the saving of arduous labor to many and the saving of labor wages is apparent.
 The establishment of these kftch ems ispos- sible for all orders of people. for 1t is accord- ing to the means of the organizers that thess kitchens would be conducted. Well-to-do women In city. suburb. and small town life could have their meals cooked by few domestic workers In large. neighborhood CO., operative kitchens if they would but organize for this purpose. and under such an arrange ment hour paid service could be sstab- lished, giving to all domestic workers an eight or six hour day, a system more humane than tho tlmeless schedule now inflicted op that bOdv of wonsp
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Raglan Sleeve New.

This seasons models are not strikingly diff ferent from those of last year. Nearly all open In front and almost without exception are cut at the neck Many have vests and some are cut to simulate Eton lines and are worn over separate vests or guimpes of net. chiffon cloth, fine batiste. or fine piQue.
 The raglan sleeve is an especially new note, and the yoke at the back that is elongated to form the upper part of the sleeve is also much seen For the tailored blouse-which. by the way, is far removed from the severe lines of the so-called tailored effect of recent years-long sleeves are worn most; for al- most all other uses the prevailing style is the three quarter sleeve or just turning the elbow. A pointed cuff set on the straight buttoned band of the long sleeve gives a pretty feminine touch. while many of the dressier sleeves are trimmed with shaped frills. starting at nothing at the inner bend of the arm at the elbow and falling about three inches deep at the back of the arm. Kimono lines are as good as eyer-when be- coming the stout will find the wide armhole under Gibson tuck gives better lines
 Frills are still worn, but there seem to be more collars, many of them ending in revers on each side of a soft vest. The new Norman collar with its wide roll; the Japanese collar that rolls clear to the belt line, the less fam boyant Gladstone collar. that yet has a de- cided flare and is cut high at back of neck, and the modified Medici collar. that comes high at the back of the head and ends about at the shoulder seams in front, are all new touches on the season blouses that are well within the ability of the amateur. Many of this last model are made of wired lace; again they are of colored chiffon or of chiffon taffeta on lace blouses.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Blouses Made at Small Cost and Suitable for Any Occasion.
By JANE BARTON.

THE separate waist no longer needs an
 apologist. It never really died, but
 now there Is no doubt of 1t being in
 full. vigorous life. Even for formal occasions-in the afternoon--it has an hon. ored place, while for sports. utility wear, and in connection with the tailored suit the separate blouse is much in evidence.
 I shall tell how to make group of waists, any one of which need not cost more than $3 and may be made for much less. accord ing to the price of the materials. This year sheer wash net waists are in high favor and are cheaper than the crepe de chine ones or those of chiffon cloth which require a lining. Again the chiffon is used over the net lining, reversing the usual order. Colored batistes and handkerchief linens are popular, while the novelty crepes and the colored all over lace in shadow or maline weaves are new. For tailored or sport use the heavy white habutai silk is an excellent choice. though crepe de chine continues in vogue.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Blouse on Tailored Lines.

The first blouse is on tailored lines and is adapted to make up in habutai silk fine white voile, crepe de chine. colored batiste. or sheer handkerchief linen. Choose a pattern with raglan sleeves and plain fronts that are shirred slightly to the sleeve line in front and has the back joined almost without full ness. If your material is striped or figured. be particular to lay the pattern so the stripes are not askew from the neck to the wrist. Hold the pattern to you to see if more full ness must be added over the bust and to the length of the sleeve.
 Full directions are given with each pattern for joining the sections and advise every one but the expert sewer to spend money for a good pattern rather than attempt to copy the new blouses by sight" The tops of the front are gathered and pasted to the bias line of the sleeve so as to form lat fslis which
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Joining the Collar.

Finish the neck with one of the new pointed collars that rolls high at the back and is about two inches wide and slopes to three and a half at the fronts. which end half way to the point of the V. Cut the collar double. stitch on the wrong side. and turn. Sew the raw edges to the under side of the neck open ing-which has first been turned in a half inch--and cover with bias facing an inch and a half wide. There are various ways of joining a collar but this Is a neat and easy method.
 If you wish to use this pattern for several blouses they may be varied by changing the shape of the collar and cuffs, also the front opening. A simple change is to lap the right side two inches over the left-cut the fronts wider for this change, allowing enough mate- rial on the right side for three oval tabs an inch and three quarters long. an inch and quarter wide, and an inch apart. Continue the slope of the right side from the, point of Rhe to the width of the overlap, starting the first tab at that place. Work a buttonhole in each tab and put button to correspond on the left front. Carry an inch and quarter facing around the neck and down to the waist line. Baste and stitch on the right side for finish.
 For third change turn back the fronts to leave space for single breasted buttoned vest three and half inches wide. This is cut to form the V neck opening. being sloped from nothing where it joins the turnover pointed collar or Gladstone collar half way from the shoulder line to the point of the V. Join the vest under the fronts as if under an inch wide loose tuck. Fasten with four but tons and buttonholes in the vest This vest and collar may be of contrasting color or of difHaranf Ynaferia1
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
The Kitchen of the Future

prosperity status of the families living In them, it would be the nelghborhood where the different cooperative kitchens were es- tabllshed that would determine their scope and expense. In these kitchens could be cooked the meals and the extra food service the co6perating families required. and all done at their will and discretion. These meals could be served in adjoining co6perative din- ing rooms or sent to the homes of the fam lilies as the people desired. It does not need much space to show that such an arrange ment would benefit all degrees of womanlxind to the saving of time. labor and money.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29

~ URING the coming months the garden
 \ will afford a good deal of interest for
 ' the imagination and energies of all - delghting, in its progress. Sowing,
 potting, and propagatng> are three most important operations of the near future. The choice of vegetable seeds should not long be delayed, for the rearing of early crops, such as lettuce radish. turnips. and all the cabbage tribe. will soon demand attention.
 The best place is at the foot of wall with a southern aspect; here they obtain all the warmth and shelter needed and such po- sition is useful later for sowing dwarf peas in lines about four feet apart, with rows of lettuce or spinach between Space may also be found for few rows of early car rots in similar position. These crops should follow those already in frames, and mature before sowings made out in the open; but it is not often that an amateur makes use of frames for raising early vegetables.
 Almost every garden has some particular place where climbers would add beauty to the surroundings, if such have not been already planted and the clematis furnishes us with a great diversity of habit-from the delicate slender growing climber that is best suited to a line trells. or perhaps trained to a stake in the flower garden up to the rampant travellers joy, that in one or two seasons will completely cover large arbor or porch with it's wonderful wealth of foliage
 Perhaps none is so much grown for va rious purposes as the Jackmann type, which displays such masses of bloom in succession during late summer and autumn, and is among the hardest of tke tribe.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Planting Flowers Out of Doors.

plants. A large rockwork or heap of roots covered with these mixed seedlings is most picturesque and attractive; or for massng on a large trells or over coarse shrubs for screening unsightly places, they are equally adaptable Still there is about two years to wait before any blooms are obtained bythis method, so that cuttings and layers are the most usual methods of propagation.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29

LMOST every phase of woman's life N and activity has been touched by the ~ spirit of progress. It is the spirit of progress that has taught women to
 unite in labor. social, and political societies for the attainment of their pur- poses, that has taught them that in this CO., operative age things must be accomplished by concerted action. But women have yet to learn that the regeneration. uplifting. and unfair and laborious conditions must come through cooperation.
 In the work and department that claims more women In Its service than aM the other activities added together-domestic labor in kitchens-the spirit of progress has been permitted to pass by with few invitations to finger. Kitchens and kitchen labor. despite the numerous and admira ble contrvances for Tightening toll now In use, remain in the same condition of primitive isolation of hundreds of years ago. Then women toiled unceasingly and alone at their labors in kitchens as they toll now. In the kitchen of the future this antiquated form of detached tihc co6perative labor.
 The kitchen of the future will be the operative kitchen. Kitchens established by co6perating groups, and serving the families and individuals of these groups with prac- tical knowledge of their needs and purses are the only type of kitchen that can elevate that department of domestic labor to a level with the progress of the twentieth century.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Established in Ncighborhood Groups.

The cooperative kitchen could be estab- lished by neighborhood groups of women organized for this purpose. The aim of these Kitchens would be the cooking and serving of food It has never been denied that the chief purpose of all kinds of home kitchensis to cook and serve meals to families and in- dividuals. If we did not need to eat we would not need kitchens, and a slight reflection makes plain the fact that any other kind of work in homes. such cleaning and laundry work. could be satisfactorily accomplished without kitchens. It Is the cooking and serving of food that makes kitchens neces- sary.
 Such being the case. the purpose of CO., operative kitchens would be the cooking and serving of food to families and individuals organized in neghborhood groups. AS neighborhoods are usually indications of the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29

Is stitched when the blouse Is fitted with single or double row of stitching on the right side. The back is joined in the same way save that the gathering is omitted Baste the underarm seams, fit, and stitch in French seam.
 Gather the sleeve at the hand into a three inch straight band, fastening on the outside of the arm with three buttons and button holes. Cut this band double. Sew into the seam before stitching pointed turn back section that starts at nothing where the cuff opens. slopes gradually for about inch, then is cut into a sharp point two and a quarter inches deep
 Hem face back the fronts an inch deep, and on the right side work five buttonholes from the point of the V neck-that comes about an inch above the bust line-to the waist. placing the buttons on the left front to correspond.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Colors Charminglv Mingled.

The prevailing colors in the Cematis family are white, blue, mauve, and purple, with many intermediate shades and tints, in some cases so charmingly mingled as to make it almost impossible to describe them properly Again. in some varieties series of veinings and stripes impart a beautiful effect to the flower. and in few instances two entirely distinct colors are seen. All the latest novel, ties will be found detailed in the descriptive catalogue of vareties issued yearly by firms that make a speciality of these plants.
 With regard to culture it must be under- stood that the clematis cannot be expected to give satisfaction when planted in a poor soil. Their thick, f1eshy roots, which form a dis tinguishing feature in the whole genus are produced in abundance, and enable them to luxuriate in a soil filled with stimulating manures In addition to a liberal supply of rich compost previous to planting an annual surface dressing of short decayed manure In the autumn, which may remain to serve as a mulch during the succeeding summer is recommended
 During the growing season care must be taken to train and fasten every slender stem to it's support. for if this should be for time neglected, the habit of the leaf stems to cling to the nearest support. amounting almost to instinct, will soon create a tangle which in the endeavor to separate often becomes serious matter to the plant.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-29
Propdrdfion Nof Difficult.

Propagation Not Difficult.
 Propagation is not attended with any great difficulty, although in some varieties care is needed to root them properly. Old plants may be divided. and every bud having few hbers attached will grow and form new plant; but in the newer kinds. where it seems necessary to raise a large number of plants fl 1rn few specimens. more skill is required. Cuttings of young wood grown under glass will strike root more readily than when taken from outdoor plants.
 Many varieties root easily from layering. this being performed when the young wood commences to ripen. slit being made in the shoot close to bud. and then curved down. ward into a small pot filled with rich loose soil To retain the moisture which is indis- pensable with layers. the pots should be sunk in the ground and shaded.
 One of the most interesting methods of re- producing a large stock of clematis plants is from seeds, and while one cannot judge of their character in advance. excepting with the true species. there is certainty of pro- 4ucing many beautiful flowers and useful