Evening star., 1914-06-07

test over a custom which is now observed ;
in the breach. should he reminded that
our forhears cut out the custom of
! bride going to the marriage altar with
l.f1owing hair as sign of virginity. Surely
| they wouldn't return to that! No one
yearns over the decadence of that fash
ion. You see, il a tradition was abolished
before our time. We are not SO tolerant OF
it. In truth. We are sometimes inclined
to be rather severe on it.
The milliners have invented many ways
to vary the monotony OF the straight veil
hanging down the length of the long skirt
at the back. The fashion for the Hol-
landaise cap brought out many similar
arrangements of the tulle and orange
blossoms. and the present drapery is al
ways on that line.
An original treatment for g short
bride who marrieS a tall man is the
pointed cap which goes up. cone-lke, for
a foot in the air. and is surrounded at
the baSe with wreath of green leaves
and myrtle blossoms. And, be it whs
pered, there is sufficient protest against
orange blossoms to admit of we'll dressed
women abandoning them, and using in
stead twisted roll of silver gauZe rib
bon.
If one does not care for silver. it is in
equally good taste. ii not quite attrac
We. 10 use "nlte SdllD TlDCOn 1 lie red
son many brides look their worst on the
wedding day is, because they cannot
stand that shastE mass of dead white.
Every woman does. not appear well with
out color in her costume, and it is amaz-
ing how much change comes about
through the Introduction of a bit of green
and silver such the leaves and the
ribbon at the base of the cap.
The length of the veil at the back re-
! mains the same or rather is governed
| bV the rlIie ALWAYS prevailed
drops to the end of the train. and when
there is no train, then it reaches to the
| hem of the skirt. No train? asks the
! conservative. Has this come about also?
, Are all traditions to fall under the ham,
mer of the auctioneer?
! Well. tradition or not. the modern
bride is going without those yards of
fabric trailing behind. Not all brides
omit the ceremonious drapery. but the
practice of doing it is growing and it Is
an excellent one to foster in the sum-
] ner.
| In the hot weather much of the cere-
mony of life is wilted. anyway. and no
one wants to carry a single yard of ma
terial that is not absolutely necessary.
! The train can be omitted without sacri-
! ficing the appearance of the gown or
seriously interfering with the dignity the
| bride is supposed to possess 1t is also
| an economy. This fact may not count
! with every one but there is a strong
feeling abroad in the land that it is
an argument which carries weight just
now.
| Some one said in the dressmaking bust
| ness the other day that the only thing
anv one spent money on in the great
cities was dancing. When asked why this
! fact did not promote the purchase of
| gowns. she said that women refused to
pay as high prices as they once did for
| clothes to wear during this incessant
| stepping to music, for dancing cut the
life of frock in half.
| This is an interesting observation for
you who are interested in the cost of
things and the division of income in
| mass today.
| The bride who prefers to go to the altar
| in a gown that has serious dignity to it.
and wants to know the best way to swing
| a long train over it. should adopt the
court method of fastening it at the shoul-
| ders There are many reasons for this
and few against it, Chief among the lat !
| ter, is the true one that it is difficult to
| manage without pages to carry it,
| But there is no good reason against the |,
Introduction of little boys as pages. They |
are far more pictorial and useful in this |
service than in holding the staffs in the |
| aisle or the ribbons that divide the sheep
from the goats, socially speaking.
/ Such train must be exceedingly long. |
! This length must be determined by the
| figure of the girl who Is to wear it. She |
| does not wish to look absurd, and this is |!
what she will do if she insists upon the |
! many yards Of heavy fabric trailing be- !
| hind. .But-and here Is another tradition !
| shattered-she can choose another ma |
teria than satin for the train. White
| lrocade, silver gauze. embroidered net or !
| chiffon are excellent. For reasons of !,
taste, the preference is still given to the !
satin, because any transparent material |
! used as train lacks dignity. and worse /
| than that, it is not easy to distinguish |
from the veil.
Dark blue serge also has the sound of
another and a simpler day. and 1t is the !
present choice of the fashionable bride |
for the going-away gown 1t may be !
gabardne if We are literally telling the !
truth. but the new name Is much further /
removed from the old one than are the |
two fabrics.
Just how this frock is made depends on |
| the brides taste and figure. but she should
avoid any of the overpopular models of
the hour such, for instance as the long
pleated tunic over a tight skirt and a
coatee blouse with an exaggerated sash.
This is a good model, and it is one of
the best Nine. Cheruit ever turned out.
but it has worn its popularity a little
threadbare, and it may not be in first
are few brides who are so reckless as to
be willing to discard their clothes after
two months of usage, so the most diff
cult thing she must do is to choose mod
els that have a chance of a future life.
There is no doubt that this Cheruit
gown has changed the silhouette, and
that it's influence may be lasting but
there are ways of incorporating its lines
and suggestions into a blue serge without
slavishly following it.
And here is a point to remember when
one is making frock with a long tunic;
have the lower skirt accordian pleated in
a thin fabric. Chiffon cloth is good for
this if there is a lining; If not. then thin
china silk or one of the new varieties OF
thin taffeta.
Such skirt gives freedom Of action in
; walking. yet it hangs in a straight nne
which is still one of fashions require
ments. What is known the trouser
skirt is fashionable, and easy to walk IN
under one of these new tunics. but 1t is
not as graceful as the straight accordian
pleated ones. 1t is a narrow petucoat
split up the center of the back. and some
times in the front.
| The bodice may be on the jumper style,
which is quite in fashion, although the
old name is not used for 1t. The sleeves
are of thin material, and there is
chemisette of white fabric with wide,
l. Rh