davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29

Among new trimmings are many
beautiful flower bandings but mons
more useful than a narrow banding
Of tiny chiffon rose buds that makes
an excellent edging and finish for
young girls frocks.
Sashes and fancy girdles make such
an important feature Of new fashion,
that slides to hold them are important.
New ones for evening wear are nads
in circular and oval forms and consist
Of alternating chiffon roses and tiny
little bunches Of forget-me-nos
blossoms.
The vogue Of the standing ruch and
the Medid collar seems to make soma
sort Of support important Two
new ones are Of interest. One con-
sists Of a strip Of tape from which
rise tiny little supports Of some COM
position material warranted not to
rust. The other is straight banding
Of white horse hair woven in open
work effect that is pliable and very
nearly transparent.
Sashes and girdles are ail-important
Just now. One Of the newest sashes
to be offered is made Of bias silk passed
twice around the figure and held at
the front with a four-in-hand knot, the
ends Of which reach to the hem Of tbs
skirt.
Velvet Is much used for girdles and
for trimmings on even the thinnest
gowns. Very beautiful new girdles are
made Of bias plaid velvet. the ends
finished with big silk tasseIs-
Hostesses who are on the search for
table linen for afternoon teas or
luncheons will surely be glad Of small
cloths and doylies Of handsome plain
linen ornamented with what is known
as mosaic work The threads are
drawn out and beautiful designs
worked thereon while there is an edg.
worked in the same way. Since all the
drawn threads are closely button
koled over, the cloth and doylies are
strong as well as beautiful
We are entering an era Of quaint.
old-time trimming, it would seem.
The newest gowns are shown with
corded seams and corded edges and the
very latest tunic gowns show the edges
bound with strips Of bias silk
Although we stand in no immediat.
need of protection from the sun. para
.ols are being displayed at every turn
Exceedingly handsome. practical ones
in coaching style are shown in plain
colors with borders Of fancy howered
and figured effects.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29
LATEST NOTES FROM
THE FASHION CENTERS

the tango red and tango ye low must
be said to be first favorites. The red
has a little Of the yellow suggestion
in it and the yellow borders on the
orange so that We are to be very bril-
liant in the details Of dress If not in
the foundation material
For the street costumes the Innings
frequently give the note Of color. A
wonderfully beautiful blue gabardine
is, for example, made with a short.
loose coat and this coat is lined with
a dark blue silk showing figures Of
vivid red with touches of green and
when the coat is thrown open the
lining forms the revers. An afternoon
costume of yellow gabardine Is lined
with black silk figured with green. but.
let it be added, the whole effect il
toned down by plain black collar and
cuffs.
We seem to have gone everywhere
and studied every possible condition
for suggestions for this opening spring.
On the one hand there are evidences
Of Directoire influence: at the next
turn the 1880 idea is conspicuous; and
alittle way on we are likely to encounter
a condition which seems suggested BY
our native Indians. A much exploited
costume which bears the name Of a
high authority in the Partisan world o:
dress is made Of black serge with a
girdle OF red suede embroidered in
beads after a manner to be compared
to nothing but the costumes worn by
the aborigines of our own continent.
As will be readily understood. such
conditions call for a great deal Of con-
sideration and care. While they often
are very striking and very beautiful.
they mean many possibilities of danger.
for, unless color is well chosen and well
handled, there can be only bizarre
results. Monsieur Poiret is perhaps
more responsible than any other ons
person for this same condition, but it
is the part Of the wise woman to choose
what is good and adapt prevailing
fashions to her need, never to follow
blindly in any ones wake.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29

\/OUNG girls viii be delighted
with this little frock. 1t can
be made from any one Of the
fashionable soft fabrics. The en-
broidered crepe illustrated is charm
ing. the new taffeta would make up
exquisitely. crepe de chine is one Of
the prettiest Of all things for young
girls wear. To add to the possibili-
ties, the blouse and tunic could be
made Of one material and the skirt
Of another: for instance, howered crsp.
over plain, or shadow net over taffeta-
For the I6-year size, the dress will
require 81 yards Of material AZ. 81
yards a. inches wide.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29
Re6

DEADs may be said to be craze.
ID For some time past, they have
been worn in the form Of
necklaces and chains almost to the
point of WEAKNESS. Spring models
are showing them used for en-
broidery that unquestionabiy is
rieh and handsome. An exquisite
gown seen today is of two-toned taffeta
giving something Of an opalescent
effect. The entire skirt is founced and
each founce Is finished with a little
tracery of bead embroidery while more
elaborate embroidery appears upon
the bodice. With a three-piece COS
tune Of brown taffeta is shown blouse
OF soft creamy lace combined with
brown tulle and there are simulated
button-holes which consist of two
rows Of iridescent brown beads and in
place Of buttons. there are little
punches Of these.
Apparently the season Is to offer
a great many opportunities to the
needle woman. Beads in themselves
are replete with suggestion and can
be utilized in numberless ways and
embroidery. both that is executed
with silk and that with gold and
silver thread is to be extensively
employed The thread are of the
japanese sort that do not tarnish and
are easily handled.
One Of the most beautiful gown,
seen at an afternoon dance was Of
Liberty satin in tete de negre with
trimming Of creamy maiines lace
enriched with embroidery of japanese
silver thread. The tunic, by the way,
was about half length and square at
the front while it grew gradually
deeper toward the back and the corsaee
Of the same lace was overlaid with
brown tulle while the inevitable touch
Of color was found in the deep crushed
girdle OF moire silk in coral pink. The
pink and brown are really delicious
together and it is combination that
is constantly growing in favor. Brown
tuBeof the right shade over cerise or
fame color that suits it to a nicety
makes as wonderful combination a,
well could be seen and the coral shades.
the fame shades and the various brown
shades are being combined in all sorts
Of interesting ways.
There are shades Of magenta that
are really wonderful with blue. An
evening costume seen recently was Of
pale blue taffeta with just touch of
magenta in the girdle that appeared
only in bits at the front and back, the
sides being concealed by drapery.
Often the note Of color is found in a
huge rose tucked into the girdle and
again one sees a tiny cravat giving
brightness to the whole costume. It
is season Of very fascinating color.
1t offers many opportunities for indi-
vidual effects and it presents innu-
merable attractive phases but it also
means the possibility of danger.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29

JAPANESE sleeves are the pre-
vailing ones Of the season. and
y this costume shows that feature
and also the new collar that stands
away from the neck. With it is COM
bined a plain three-piece skirt with
circular frills that add an individual
touch For the medium size. the
blouse will require AZ yards. Of ma
terial 77. ~ yards "A inches wide.
with rs yards Of silk for the tirm-
ming, IH yards Of lace 4 inches wide;
the skirt ~ yards AZ. 3 yards 4,
inches wide. with ~ yards IL in. for
the trimming.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29
URE OF SPRING GOWNS IN AND OUT THE
NEW YORK SHOPS

4 MONG the spring models are
~ what are known as composite"
suits, made Of two or even
three materials. In other models are
to be seen combinations Of plain silk
with the crinkly sort, or serge with
MORE and, for formal use. Of mateIlasss
moire, which is one of the extreme
novelties,-oombined with plain.
In the matter Of color the cruds
shades that we borrowed last fall from
the Cubist palette have all been re-
turned with thanks and we may avail
ourselves of soft tender tones that
cheer but do not inebriate. There Is
a pale silvery green known as cactus.
Another delicate green, slightly grayer.
is called Czarina. Among the brown
family, rust is the successor Of ma
hogany and golden brown Heliotrope
and vistaria make their bows again
this season and are to be found artfully
shown near the new tan called bamboo.
When II comes to the question Of
texture. ribbed effects are evidently
to be fashionable and We will be iusti-
fed in looking for all ribbed silks and
ali ribbed woods We are still under
the spell Of Oriental beauty in the
matter of trimmings. Cotton velour,
in Persian coloring will continue to
hold sway and the successful brocaded
effects will be found in silks and in
wool fabrics. The new failIe silks bid
fair to gain a strong hold upon pre-
Easter buyers.
Housekeepers who find difficultyin
serving hot coffee will be glad Of a
development of the thermos idea. Il
consists Of a nickle plated coffee pot
surrounded by the usual vacuum and
the coffee can be kept hot for a num-
Der of hours. In addition to being
practical. the pot is a handsome one
and, in the medium size. can be pur-
chased for $500
Hostesses on the outlook for bridge
prizes and dinner souvenirs will be
glad to know Of potpourri baskets Of
suitable size. They are filed with a
very excellent mixture and, on top Of
each, there is set little bouquet Of
artificial flowers that is quaint and
attractive
For college and. indeed. for any
woman who likes to keep cake or
similar goodies in her own room are
offered tin boxes covered with cretonne
that are mouse proof and, at the same
time, attractive. They can be pur-
chased for $I.oo each.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29

piece skirt can be made In walking
length or with a train and the sleeves
in three-quarter or full length. As
shown here, the material is crepe in
lowered design with trimming Of SIM
pie silk and lace frills.
For the medium size. the gown viii
require IN yards Of material AZ. 81
yards 36, N yards a, with ,t yard 77
inches wide for trimming. ~ yards
Of lace inches wide.
The plain gown consists Of a four
gored skirt and simple waist. Itis
one Of the most useful and practical
possible for the active housewife and
also can be utilized for nurses wear.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29
.RAPERIES are popular this sea-

NRAPERIES are popular this sea-
- son; also we are wearing many
combinations Of figured and
plain materials. This gown illustrates
both features. 1t is a charming gown
adapted to almost any afternoon occa-
sion and is attractive when made Of
silk crepe. plain and figured. For the
medium size, the blouse viii require
81 yards Of material AZ. ~ yards a.
inches wide. with q yd. II inches
wide for the collar and cuffs. a
yard Of net. u yard Of plated ruff
fling for the chemisette; the skirt,
6 yards 77. ~ yards a inches wide.
with u yard AZ for the trimming.
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29

|oULD anything be prettier than
\ this gown with three efriils
forming a tunicf 1t is simple
enough to be boon to the home dress-
maker, yet it is absolutely smart and
new. One Of the spring foulards &
shown but this season we use the same
design for the simplest cotton ma
terial and the handsomest silk. For
the medium size the gown will require
6 yards Of material 27. ~ yards a.
inches wide, with AZ yards of rufling.
GRIN place Of the ruffiing, little vestee
Ct lace can be used. for which will be
required Is yard of lace 3 inches wide
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29

and It can be made in walking length
or with short train.
For the medium size, the gown will
require 9 yards Of material ~, 6 yards
36. ~ yards a inches wide. with
~ yards AZ inches wide for trimming.
vVIHETHER one wants pretty
w frilly morning gown or
W practical. useful one de-
pends entirely upon what occupation
the day viii bring. Here are two
designs each Of which is desirable in
its own way.
The draped tea gown is eminently
simple. easy to make yet essentially
graceful and attractive. The three
The Washington herald., 1914-03-29

THE morning gown that is made
with an Empire waist line is
always a pretty one. In the
illustration, the material is one Of the
new challies showing japanese designs
with trimming Of silk, but. for spring
and summer, there are great many
simple washable fabrics that make up
most attractively after Just such a
design. The cotton cepes are won-
derfully lovely, many Of the voiles
show extremely attractive flower de-
signs that are pretty and dainty
'dimities and batistes are always SER
viceable. The sleeves are sewed to
the waist portion beneath the tucks
and the skirt Is cut in four pieces
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13
ATTORNEY THOMPSON
MAY ENTER OFFICE
OF u. S. ATTORNEY

U S. District Attorney JEFF McCarn
announced today that he expects to
make arrangements in the near future
whereby Attorney ]. w. Thompson,
the new arrival from Nashville, Tenn,
will be taken in as his assistant in
the federal Office. The latter has for
mally declared his intention of be-
coming a citizen of the territory and
McCarn learned this morning that it
will be possible to take Thompson
into the federal Office without mate
rally interfering with the latter's pri-
vate business in Attorney A. S. Hum
phreys' Office.
Thompson came here under con-
tract to enter Humphreys Office, and
therefore was under no obligation to
the district attorney or the govern
ment. But it is stated he will keep
his original promise to become the
district attorneys assistant. just as
soon as The is able to qualify as a
resident of the islands.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13
c0NcEALING OPIUM Is
CHARGED AGAINST TWO

Frank Lopez, Spaniard who has
been fireman on the steamer VIII
heimina for six years, was arrested
hy the U. S. MarshaI's office this
morning on a warrant sworn to by
u. S. District Attorney jeff Mccarn
accusing him with concealIng opium.
II is stated the charge is the out.
growth OF the arrest Of Gabriel Col
lado. another Spaniard, last wednes.
day afternoon, who then declared 10.
pez had given him $675 to purchase
opium; that ne had obtained the drug
ard in turn had placed II in the hands
CT Chinaman for sale He said that
when he went back later to collect. the
Chinaman refused to pay him, declar-
ing he had received no opium.
Lopez denies the accusation, aver
ring he gave Collado s675 TO purchase
a restaurant. He asserts several
other firemen on the Wilhelmina wit
messed the transaction. Both men viii
be held until the return of these al
legged Witnesses, who arc duo on tho
Wilhelmina March IL.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13
NECESSITY
OF ECONOMY
IS APPARENT
tcOntinued rom pass one)

"skinning" will begin in 1916 or 1917
Richard Ivers took little different
view from that Of Mr.. Tenney we
are in position OF the man who has
the bull by the tail" he said. I'VE
would like to let go but can't"
The .skinning' of plantation
means practically total loss, he con-
tinued. Even the snspending of OPP
erations is most disastrous. because
Of the less through depreciation A
few years cut of cultivation. and fields
are hopelessly grown mp with weeds,
quarters go to pieces in fact every.
thing goes to ruin"
And Mr.. Iyers further declared that
ne does not expect any escape from
free sugar, or the return to power of
the Republican party in the next ma
tional elections His visit to the coast
he said, had shown him that the Re
publican party factions are as far
apart as ever. and until they get to-
gether he doesn't think it possible that
the Democrats will lose control He
has some hope, however. he intimated,
that the strength of the beet sugar
interests viii be sufficient to obtain
some measure of protection to the
sugar industry.
Replying TO a question, Mr.. Iyers
said that he looked for low prices
for the next few years regardless of
the effect OF the tariff. owing to the
big areas planted TO sugar in Cuba.
A larger consumption of the commod-
ity may result from the cheaper prices.
Mr.. fFers expressed the opinion that
the sugar men do not wish to appeal
to the courts In regard TO their taxes
this year. The chief reason for this,
he held, is that such a fight would
compel attention to the extreme seri-
BUSINESS of the situation. and the pub
licity would embarrass them in borrow
ing on the coast in case of necessity.
Nobody on the coast mainland" he
said, takes seriously the idea that
we are in danger of being put out
of business. They are all sure that
we can keep right on making sugar
regardless of prices
Mr.. Ivers approved the suggestion
of the Doard with reference to having
the time for fixing the tax rates
changed to come after the tax re-
turns are in. He said he believed it
would bring home to taxpayers not in
the sugar business fuller realization
of their duties towards good govern
ment, and more businesslike adj
ministration would result.
No action was taken on the matter
of changing the valuations of either
the Castle & Cooke or the Brewer &
Company properties, but for the Schae-
fer & Company plantations, slight
reduction on the figures set by the
board was agreed to- For Brewer &
Company properties, Mr.. Ivers ex-
pressed willingness to have the as
sessment raised for a number of the
on condition that certain
Others are allowed to stand according
to the returns.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13
Irwin OF HILO
IS WELL BACKED
FOR APPOINTMENT
Democrats See Good Chance
for Him as Attorney
General

Rumor persistently conferred yester.
day and today around the name OF
Harry Irwin of Hilo as prospective
Encouragement. With the appoint
ment OF Attorney-general Thayer to
succeed E. A. Mott-Smith as secre-
tary of the territory, evidence has
been given on the part OF the ma
tional administration of intention to
settle Hawaiian matters expeditions
", and ii is considered certain that
within the next two weeks good
many political plums will be falling
from the Democratic tree.
Governor Pinkham has given no
definite indication of his intentions
regarding the attorney generalship
and all the information is coming
from other souces. Some of those
close to the situation believe that he
will favor Irwin for the position.
Deputy Encouragement Arthur G.
Smith is receptive candidate for
the position. but though he has had
considerable experience in the Office
and is in touch with its affairs on
hand, the fact that he isn't Demo
crat initiates against his chances of
being named.
On behalf of Harry Irwin 1t Is
pointed out that he is at least as
capable as any other man so far mem
toned for the position. and that If he
were named the territorial admins
tration would have shown its readi-
ness to recognize the Democracy of
other islands besides Oahu. Irwin
has much backing for the position
and many friends who think he will
make a keen and capable attorney
general The political phase of the
matter is one of the strongest inhu-
ences at work.
Secretary Mott-Smith was as happy
this morning as boy let out of
school for summer vacation. He
has been trying to get out of the
secretary's Office for three years and
has finally succeeded. He says that
he will adhere rigidly to his deter
mination to quit Office on March Is,
regardless of whether Mr. Thayer is
ready to step into the vacancy at that
time.
Il hope he is, but If he isn't. I'm
certainly going to step OUT declared
Mr. Mott-Smith today "The work of
the public utilities commission de-
mands INV yhole time and the secre-
tary's Office will keep going even if
there is temporary vacancy
One report today around the CAPT
toll building connected the name of
Judge A. A. Wilder with the attorney
generalship, but this report was not
given much credence.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13

sociation have been discussing the
federal building site for some time. A
good share of them believe we should
go ahead and carry the original MANU-
ka site building through. Apparently
this does not meet with favor in Of
fetal circles.
What we can do, as adapted to
what We would like to do, Is the form
in which the federal building site
question is now before the people Of
this city.
We need the building. I guess
everyone will say Aye TO that
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13

lie demonstration in the Floral Pa
rade; enough to let the people know
we are on the map. The Good Temp
lars which was organized by our
league mas grown lnd is filling a spe.
cial niche in the economic work for
temperance. -
"We have furnished the daily press
with an average of three articles a
week and have had temperance ar
ticIe in the Kuokoa every week besides
cnee a month an article for the Friend
and also for the o Luso, Portuguese
paper We subscribe regularly for
two copies of the American Issue. one
copy of the Patriot, l copy of the
Union Signal and have received PAM
phlets and other such material.
1--WE have been fortunate in secur-
ing the services of Rev. J. w Wad-
man on the first of the year and the
results of his labors are already APP
parent in an awakening of interest in
the temperance work on the other isl.
ands and IN Honolulu.
The GroHna Bill. .:--.
The Gronna bill ms now before Con-
gress in Washington We have writ
ten every senator and representative,
besides a large petition of about 80
names representing the most influen-
tial business men of our city was for
warded to the committee. have re-.
ceiyed 81 replies some non-commit-
tai, some favorable and about 30 per
cent promised definite support The
committee gave our representative a
hearing on the 18th of last month and
according to the newspapers referred
the matter to our governor for recon-
I,lsstt,is ti,.t1s
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13

Friday, the 18th, possessed few ter.
rors for local waterfronters, with no
arrivals or departures at the port save
InterIsland steamers.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-03-13
MoTTo-cLEAN AND GOOD
German Bakery
Anton STANCE & Bro.

1lJ9 Fort st. Phone 1888
FRESH DAILY:
White. Graham, Whole Wheat, Butter
nut French, Milk. Rye and Raisin
Bread. German Coffee Cake. French
Pastry. Cream Puffs. Marzipan.
Baumkuchen, Ice Cream $500 per gal.
French Ice Cream. sheroet
German PumperniekeI. Rolls. Buns,
snsils, Doushnuts, jelly 0oushnuts.
Home.Made Chocolates
Haassche Hopes
(imported)
Bonners Ferry herald. [volume] (Bonners Ferry, Idaho) 1904-current, 1914-09-18
SUMMARY OF WAR


Rome reports that both Germany
and Austria are again making efforts
to induce Italy to abandon her neutral
ity.
The Belgian army is reported to
have won success in the territory to
the east of Antwerp and has occupied
Aerschot and Malines.
The German retreat continues stead
lily. Both French and British officials
reports declare that the Germans are
being forced back with many losses.
An official announcement from Pet
rograd says that the Russian troops
are drawing nearer to San river and
that the Austrian army is in retreat.
The British official press bureau
issues summary of the operations of
the Bri 'ish expeditionary force and the
French army during the last week. 1t
tells of the advances of these forces
and de, ares that the combined oper-
ations have, up to the present, been
completely successful. it adds that the
third French army has captured the
entire artillery of hostile corps, re-
presenting $50 guns.