The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-01-04

L
this better than the Parisienne Of ex-
elusive society. do not know how
English women really feel about dress
but I do know that this subject Is a
sacred one to an eclectic French woman,
and / believe that American women are
very French in their ideas so far as
their gowns are concerned.
| Now when 1t comes to a discussion on
the subject of necessary pin money It
is useful to realize that the most famous
dressers the world has known have
! rarely been women who spent extrava-
CANT sums on dress. In some notable
cases the reverse state of affairs has
held good to surprising extent. AS
examples Of the rule may be cited Nine.
Recamier. the Empress Josephine, the
Empress Eugene. and thirty years ago
the famous Princess de sagan whose
husband was known all over Europe as
lie Prince de Chic"
| Each one OF these famous women wa.
noted. In her own day, as a perfect
dresser, each one became. and re-
manned. power in the world of dress.
And yet it is well known that Nine
Recamier was comparatively poor
when she created her famous salon and
set the fashions The Empress
Eugene recently stated in print tina,
she never. even in her most brilliant
moments. spent anything like the sums
| which are now considered necessary
for an ordinary society woman. AS to
the Princess de Sagan, she was a genius
where dress was concerned and she
never hesitated to spend large sums Of
| money on exquisite laces and embroider-
les, but she understood what she w.ss
buying and above all she understood
thoroughly her own possibilities. She
was to large extent her own designer
and each garment worn by her
possessed real meaning because it was
created to display individual charms.
On the subject of the we'll dressed
woman am an enthusiast This is
why / return again and again to the
same subject It Is my cherished dream
to gather together a little coterie Of
women who will revotutionize the world
OF dress. We need a revolution OF this
sort, for women are rapidly becoming
moro and more banal, foolishly extrava-
CANT and sheeplike. It u only necessary
Tor some ono to ring the wef11er bell
sumciently loudly and individuality is
forgotten; all run into line and blindly
accept what to thrown to them.
It Is not In this way that great repu-
I tatfons have ever been made in the
arena Of dress. At the present moment
the women who are spoken OF as the
best dressers in Paris are by no means
the most extravagant; quite the con-
trary. They are women who have
within them the instinct which makes
| real valenciennes lace Of the finest
| quality the only possible trimming for
| lingerie; which raises pair of shoe
| buckles to a shrine: which makes it a
natura1 thing to expend 500 or $3.50 on
| veil to be worn with a simple felt
morning hat. 1t Is q matter Of instinct
and Yet again. instinct. And the woman
who possesses this heaven sent gift will
stand away from her fellows whether
she spends $500 year on dress, or
| 10000.
Since have commenced this article
by referring to a newspaper contro-
| versy In London may as we'll say a
few words about another discussion
! which touches the subject Of dress
closely. This is the 'slinker SLOUGH"
question.
Tho London newspapers are asking
the question, "Is the SLOUGH going to be-
| come q permanent fashion," They have
even carried the matter so far az to sug-
| gest that It has become necessary to
| invent special exercises to counteract
| tho effect Of this peculiar pose. It Is
Ill very funny. Certainly do not
advise any one to attempt to make a
fortune by anventing a System OF coun-
| ter slinker exercises. for the famous
slouch Is merely a passing fad. Already
It has had its day. In Paris It is con-
sidered ''vieux jeu."
| 1t has been said that 1t was Poiret
who invented the shnker SLOUGH for the
purpose Of showing to advantage some
| Of his more eccentric models, but
am OF the opinion that it was Nine.
| Paul Tribe who really launched this
peculiar fashion. About eighteen
months ago sh6 made a. sensational
debut on the stage In much discussed
play called "Rue de la Paix." In this
piece she assumed, quite naturally.
some extraordinary attitudes. . She
placed her feet at unexpected angles
and, when walking. drew them after
her In q fangutd fashion, at the same
time curving her body in a manner
which suggested extreme fatigue.
This fad caught on ALMOST at once.
The Parisiennes were enchanted with
the droll play Of the feet and quickly
| became experts at body contortions
BY the end of a month some Of the
ultra smart society women really looked
as though they had got rid of their
bones In some mysterious way. From
head to foot they were limp.
| Needless to say the fad was nothing
but fad. 1t has lasted all these months
because the fashion was taken up by
I English and American women. but now
1t Is dying. II not dead. II any one
wishes to make ready . system of
| gymnastic exercises suitable for the
coming spring season advise him to
study the methods Of the Duncan fam
| lily. We are quietly advancing toward
| classic style of dress which will call
F,. %,,y u i