Evening journal., 1914-03-28

The interest aroused by NJ. Poiret
was further accentuated and focused on
Madame Poirct, WHO wore gowns with
grace and charm. typical of NJ. Poiret's
creative genius. In almost every in
stance, his gowns Shaved loose-waist-
ed effect tina gave ample play to every
Muscle of the boiy The wonderful fab.
rics and colo.s proved the originplt, 9,
of which PoiTet alone is master His
gowns are often impractical. but full o.
inspiration, and have done much to-
wards the awakening of originality and
creative quality in the great French
houses.
Following the example of these two
leaders OF fashions. the House of Paquin
has now brought to this country an
exhibit of gowns on mannequins for
which one must pay admission
As each courturicr has a strong tend
ency toward some individual style. so
in the Paquin gowns certain tendencies
are strongly marked, noticeably the lack
of the hustle effect and the long straight
lines OF the back
The collars Of the coats and blouscs
fall well away from the neck and stand
effect of the japanese collar often ear
ried out in more than one color; such
as a striped silk collar over large
plains eolored collar, with an inside FLAIR
ing collar of sheer white organdy.
The line of the bottom of the skirt
is rarely straight among these Paquin
models. Often il is scalloped, at tunes
uneven. and usually with the fullness in
serted on either side from the knee
down or with rounded Sits. from under
which an underilounce of another ma
teral is visible.
The majority of the thin gowns show
white foundation stamped at intervals
with Cubist design and the edges
bound with a bias fold, not more than
half an inch deep, matching in color the
tones of the design.
The waists of these sheer gowns show
the same tendency TO be high in front
or low in the back as shown in the ma.
jority Of Paquin models. Usually they
are treated behind in some fancy man.
ner, either a bow with tasseled ends and
widc loops. or some soft draping that
gives not too pronounced sash effect
The front often has two or three ma.
terials placed one on top of the othei
and each partly showing sheer lace
or net. gives the effect of an inner. yoke
touching the skin. and another lace ol
layer OF chiffon separates the material
of the gown from this inner fabric.
The bewitching little gown which
have used for my first illustration is
a charming example Of what Paquin
shows for the young girl. Chiffon
J figured with a widely spread Cubist
rose design is the basic material over
white chiffon. The waist Is short
without any girdle or sash, but fin
ished with a narrow ruffle of the
chiffon, as though the upper part OF
the skirt was gathered to form it.
/ The kimono waist is most charming
/ ly and girlishly trimmed with bands
OF gathered white chiffon edged with
| frills of net on the shoulder, while
/ the front of the waist is of chiffon
shirred several times and held in
/ place by narrow black velvet rib
bon and a frill of net at each shir-
ring. The charming little hat so suit
ed to the young girl is of soft blue
horsehair braid, trimmed with pink
roses.
A straight piece of charmeuse was
we'll arranged on one of the models.
The straight of the thread was placed
at the front over the bust. 1t was
slit up and the ends tied behind in
rather decorative saeh whila tho