davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21

around her splendid equipage 70 see.
what 7 hope is not often seen IN
this country. an almost naked wom-
an. An elegant and select party
was given her By Mrs Robert Smith;
her appearance was such as TO
throw all TIE company into contu-
sio-. and no one dared 70 look AZ
he save by stealth; the window
shutters being open. crowd assem-
blec round ne windows 20 have l
lcoE q, this 5eauutJl crcature-for
ever one sllows she is extremely
bea4t.-'
-: lress was OF the thinncst
sarSn>. - white crepe. without the
leasr sJ.a .Aing IN it. rad. without
a single Peat N the SKIRT. the width
at the Lo,tc:n ing made OF cores;
there va sca,ce.y any waist and
her arm wee uncovered and the
rest OF her los.a visible. She was
engaged the ae%t evening az Madam
p. Mrs. r. Smith and sew
eral othe- laGicc sent her word that
if she WISHED 20 meet them there
she must promise 10 have more
clothes on. was highly pleased
at this becoming spirit in our ladies'.
Before he visit TO America a WON
an OF socisi prominence in Washing
ton wrote, in 1901 There is lady
here who afforded ne great smaze-
mert. titled her Madame Eve and
called her costume the hgleaf."
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21

languid creatures must have worn
these and similar frail footgear
Nor can we disc.airu TINS custom
as belonging wholly TO the extrava-
CANT tastes OF our luxurious French
cousins. for down in black and whit.
is it against Us in a letter OF 1882
written by an English traveller in
America that American women" ap-
pear extremely shocked d. the sight
OF comfortable walking shoes or
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21

cape not more than four inches deeo.
In front OF the coat were Two side
rufles Of ermine. the belt was lined
IN the ermine and TWO crnine lined
pockets and an crnine border a, the
bottom Of the coat made splendid
y figured contrast Of black and
white
Not all the coats and capes had
two kinds Of furs Some Of them.
whose modelling was sufficiently
elaborate. dispensed with color con
t-ssts. A very common type OF coat
IS the one which IS topped by a cape
either at the back or in font, some
giving the appearance OF an entire
cape and others seeming like a coat
with a double back. Often these
have a military air. for the upper sec
ton OF the coat can be uniastened
and hang loose as d cape, which ruay
be thrown over the shoulder.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21

Il -
w summer. one IS confronted
by many attractive dresses
made in lovely materials 4 frock
that Is charming for summer wear
is OF Aounced crepe in mustard col
or. The waist IS cut with suimpe
which is OF white organdie fastened
by crochcted buttons the three
quarter sleeves trimmed with
rather wide organdie ruftie
Like most other dresses OF the
season. it has the long tunic. which
is nicely finished at the waist by
wide belt Of the material fastened by
two c-ocaeted buttons. The price
Of this charming dress is Sl2 so.
yellow Crepe with Black satin Girdle.
Another smart dress IS OF crepe.
made with kiuono sleeves finished
by cuffs of organdie. The waist has
q yoke back Of the crepe. and is nm
ished in the front by a vestee OF
net. which opens over revers OF the
crepe. The vest is fastened by white
crocheted buttons. The side plated
tuuic is finished by q black satin sir-
die. which is most effective with the
yellow Of the dress. The gown sells
for Slt 50.
Panne Velvet and Tareta for Evening.
Sketched on this page is delight
ful evening dress OF black panne vel
vet. trimmed with white tafeta. Tbs
--aist section o. the dress Is OF whi.c
,affcta with bands Of the Parne vel
ct extending over the shoulders.
giving very charming effect. The
elbow sleeve arc O. ;afeta trimmed
with bands IN the front there IS a
vestec o. silk net fastened by small
buttons. Above the waistii1e there
is a ruf7e Of the white tateta. and
placed under IL IS a wide orange cir
die with long ends A iarge orange
flower is placed IN the front. The
skirt is made w.th two ruaies o; the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21

boots and cotton stockings: even
when they have 20 step 20 their
slelqhe over ice and snow. They
walk in the middle % winter with
their poor iittle toes punched into a
miniature slipper. incapable OF eX-
GLIDING as much moisture as might
bcdew a primrose.
But i was the amazing extremes
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21
MUFF DESIGNS CHANGED
Radical Departures Mark the Fashions for the Coming Win
tcr-"Thc Accordeon Folds Slightly Thus Sug
costing the Derivation of It's Name

RADICAL change has been than four inches deep
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21

white. tan. rose. lavender and blue
Price. So 90.
Pockets Figure in Russian suit.
Szctched on this page IS a very
good looking suit OF white serge
The coat is made on Russian lines.
with three large sheered pockets.
The collar. which may be worn open
or closed. IS high at the neck The
long sleeves are finished by turn
back cuffs Of the material fastened
by button. The Goa, a. held IN by
a belt. which is fastened by buckle
in the front. The skirt IS made per
fectly PLAIN, with a pocket on the
side. and finished with d wide belt
of the material fastened by two large
bone buttons. This nit comes in
white only and sells for 524 so.
White Shoes and Hat.
Shown with the suit just described
is z good looking white iaille hat
which may be bought for So IS.
The shoes worn with the suit are
Of white buckskin, which may be
had for SOS.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21
DcDlorcs Naked Arms.

Ano:rc- writer o: the times de-
plo-.s the custom in Paris. and aftc;
her 6, .iDr ashior descriptions re-
lates that nothing IS 70 be seen save
naked arms and gowns falling Of
the shoulders. regardless o. TIE sea-
son. that never before in Paris wee
pulmonary and nervous complaints
so frequent" S. { adds: Il sincere
~ hope. rowcvcr that next winter
along with IL uso Ill bring that
modesty whit . alone render q
female desir5.'-
It seems a ia cry 70 hoops from
these costumes and. as wc may
readily imagine these constrosities
brought down torrent Of abuse.
No longer could the laying Of a wiz
OF 1905 hold good-that the change
in female dress OF late must con-
tribute vcrv much 70 domestic bliss;
no man can surely complain now Of
petticoat government - for. with
hoops. often no less than three or
four petticoats were worn.
The public prints we're flooded
with sa:irical reference to the vogue
for the crinoline. as we as serious
sdronitioas 70 women in general in
the name Of common sense. safe;y
and sanitation 70 forsake such a
ronstrocity O. fashion.
Crinolire >urmouutcd Ridiculc.
Justin Mccarthy in his Portraits
O. the COS" tells Us. however. that
Its reign defcd all contcmpo- ary
ridiculc." and that it was worn by
women OF all classes. To quote at
length: The boys in The street SANG
comic songs to make sport Of it. bit
no street believing o. contempt
could ircite the wearers OF this most
inconvenicnt and hidcous article CT
dress to condemn them elves TO
cling.ng drapcries.
"Crino,ne. too. -rea.ed a new sort
OF calamity all its own. Gvery days
paper gave us t-esh accounts T
crinolinc accidents IN wAicn
a woman was sevc-:i7 burned. or
burned 70 6eath becausc OF some
fame Of ire o. c2adl- cat ing hc-
distended Graccry a. Some u7cx0cc,-
ed moment There verc sacrifices
made which rorl5 ave done the
sufferers immortal homer j. hey mad
been FOR r. sa-- OF bearing some
religious or political emblem cor
dcnned by ruling and d-spotic au-
thorities
Her Wild pespa.r Lost on Him.
Again. he recalls eeeing . great
tragic queen c. opera IN { famous
role incased in a large hoopskirt
ard adds: "Every movement ard
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21

white tafeta which tall over an
underskirt OF black panne velvet.
This frock is very lovely for even
ing wear and sells for 500
Prett, Frock Of Cotton Crepe.
a very smart frock which is being
sold at a moderate price IS made Of
cotton crepe. The waist IS cut in
raglan style. with d vestee and cuffs
Of embroidered orsendie On the
sides there are revers OF the material
finished by henstitching and three
covered buttons. The long fitted
tunic has wide hem which is hem
stitched. A broad belt in d contrast
ing color completes this frock, which
sells for 60 IS.
The indispensable Blouse.
White shirt waists are needed al
the seashore or mountains. One
very good looking one IS made OF
linen with wide arnholes and deep
turn-back cuffs OF the material, the
only trimming being the pointed col
lar and d small pocket on the lett
side This delightful blouse IS fas-
tened in the front with four bone
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21
Colored GirdIes
Morning and Evening Dress
es Enlivened by Con
trasting Colors.

choosing clothes for the
w summer. one IS confronted
by many attractive dresses
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-21
W0MAk'S PAGE BINDERS.

As man, ~ the articles on this page
viii be convinced from day 10 daA. The
rrihuGc Tor the convenience 81 those
rho mI' wish to preserve the pages
has tad made m original ana unusual
binder This binder holds ,iNiI single
neD .pspcr page ana will be .oid at
cJs; thirty ceut,. po.tase prepaid.
So. -Or receipt ~ a selt-nd ircsS~d
-,amp,e envelope The Tribune viii fur
MIS-. thc names and addresses or The
shops from which tho articles described
ON This page are taken.
The day book., 1914-07-28
STILL SLENDER CHANCE

A slender chance of arbitration in
the present critical railroad situation
is seen in the agreement on the part
of the engineers and firemen to con-
tinue the negotiations with the me-
diation board, although the confer
ences were supposed to have ended
Sunday.
The enginemen are expected to
give an answer on the arbitration
proposition today.
The day book., 1914-07-28

THE POLICE AND VICE AFFAIR
AS foretold in The Day Book yes
terday, Chief Gleason has given strict
orders to clean up the North Side.
Capt. John Rehm, East Chicago
avenue, will probably be transferred.
Mayor ordered closing of Bert
Whites cafe, formerly Roy Jones',
and the Cadillac Hotel cafe, run by
Balme & Rothschild.
Judge Owens tells of having Burns
detectives looking for evidence on his
political opponents in the First Ward.
Owens says his detectives have
got the goods on Pollock Ben's," Jor-
dams, Colosimo's, the Cadillac and
Bert Whites.
Hoyne admitted seeking the indict-
ment of Former Captain Ryan and
Lieut.. Grady on charge of conspiracy
to obstruct justice.
Prosecutor also seeks indictments
against Roy Jones, Johnny Turio and
several witnesses involved in present
Investigation.
1t is reported that Elsie Foster, 13,
who witnessed killing of Officer Birns,
identified Roxy Venille as man who
did first shooting.
Women's City Club is making
house to house canvass to secure
names to petition to put Freiberg's
out of business. Expect to have 100,-
600 names by tomorrow.
Police seeking blonde woman" in
connection with P w. Coppersmith's
death in redlight district.
Ollie MulEenbach and Joe Sherman,
friends of Turio, located in Xenia, O.,
will be brought back.
STILL SLENDER CHANCE
A slender chance of arbitration in
The day book., 1914-07-28
ToDAY'S HEALTHoGRAM

Some refrigerator information-As
metal is better heat conductor than
wood, a metal refrigerator will re-
quire more insulation than wooden
one. The lining of the refrigerator
should be metal, porcelain, glass,
enamel or some other easily cleaned,
dirt-showing substance.
-O-O-
Nottingham, Eng-conVicted of
being in possession of explosives with
intention of committing felony, Irene
Casey, militant suffraget, sentenced
to Is months in prison.
WEATHER FORECAST
Partly cloudy today and tomorrow;
possibly local showers today; no inn
portant temperature change; light
northeast winds.
The day book., 1914-07-28
SMEAR 1T ON!

BY Jim Nance.
There's been raspberries and cur
rants,
Lots of peaches and some pears,
Lying round about the kitchen,
Mingled in with wife's affairs.
It's enough to make one happy, .
It's cinch, folks, that ! am,
Cause know that through the
winter
We will have lot of jam.
The day book., 1914-07-28
P. S.-"Gosh! There is only one
can of strawberry preserves left"
GAMES FOR TODAY

American League.
New York at Chicago.
Boston at Cleveland.
Philadelphia at Detroit.
Washington at St. Louis.
National League.
Chicago at Boston.
Pittsburgh at New York.
Cincinnati at Brooklyn.
st. Louis at Philadelphia.
Federal League.
Chicago at Buffalo.
St. Louis at Brooklyn.
Indianapolis at Baltimore.
Kansas City at Pittsburgh.
Cheraw chronicle. [volume] (Cheraw, S.C.) 1896-2005, 1914-09-24
poor, afflicted young lady go out driv-

poor, afflicted young lady 60 out driv-
ing alone?"
Old Mr.. Beach stared at him. "Af-
flicted? She amt no more afflicted
than you are" he answered.
"But you take cases of mental break
down." cried Thornley,.
"Only one year." said Mr.. Beach
grimly. Year after you left. had
enough Of them. Now I'm trying TO
build up a regular business again. But
it's hard. When once a man has ta-
ken mentals all his guests are sup
posed to be mentals. She thinks you're
one"
What" cried Thornley,, why
didn't you tell her? That accounts for
the way she has been treating me-"
whats the use?" asked Mr.. Beach.
"She wouldn't have believed me- Once
a man takes mentals, everybody sus-
poets all his guests are mcntals.
They'll be calling me mental soon.
| hoped you'd find each other out, but
II Id tried to speak It would only
have made things worse than what
they were"
Thornley's anger soon passed. From
his point Of view the old man was
right. If he had explained to each OF
his guests that the other was not a
mental" would they have believed
him?
He chafed and fumed the rest Of the
day, because Miss Marchant did not
appear. But when, on the next morn
ing, they met in the pleasant grounds,
there was a smile OH her lips.
"Mrs. Beach has told me all, Mr..
Thornley," she said. How you must
have hated me. Can you forgive me"'
Thornley, locked at her. Something
in his glance cent the blood Into her
cheeks.
"On condition that you-stay a long
time" he stammered.
And, long before their holiday had
elapsed, It was recognized that Mr..
Beach had a new kind Of mental case
in his house, which could only be
cured-as this one was-by a long
white veil and orange blossoms.
Copyright. 1914, by ". G. Chapman)
Cheraw chronicle. [volume] (Cheraw, S.C.) 1896-2005, 1914-09-24
H. L. POWE
REV. HENRY N. C0UDEN, THE BLIND CHAPLAIN

Rev. Henry Noble Couden. is one OF
the best known figures in public life in
Washington. For 10 years he has
opened the daily session Of the house
in the manner described. Under four
speakers he has served Republicans
and Democrats alike have known him
as their own chaplain.
In all his l9 years Of service he has
missed attendance at the opening of
the house but twice, excepting, OF
course, the times when he was i'll and
furnished q substitute. On one occa.
sion his attendant forgot and left him
sitting in the lobby. On another occa
sion a great storm detained him and
caused him to arrive late and after the
house had begun its session. This is
O record to be proud Of.
in many respects Doctor COuden Is
moro than the mere prayermaker OF
congress. His relations to the mem
bcrshIp of the house ut all times have
rescmbl"d those Of the pastor of a
church. or of chaplain Of regiment
OF troops. He visits the congressional
sick. hurIos tn" dead, gives spiritual
comfort and consolation when II" may
and is often called upon. Many men
serving In congress have no church
affiliations. To I"ctor Coudrn they
turn naturally Us their official spiritual
counselor
Cheraw chronicle. [volume] (Cheraw, S.C.) 1896-2005, 1914-09-24
::,I:s,..l,zz,.l2,aIAis,aasAsisSA2sa,ssaeeN
IN The BEkKsH|REs
BY JOHN Enrol.

1t was five years sinde Henry Thorn
ley, then struggling artist but now
beginning to be known In his profess
sion. had stayed at Croft inn. 1t was
little place tucked away in the heart
of the Berkshires, and kept by an old
couple who took boarders to exc out
their scanty means.
And, though old Mr.. and Mrs. Beach
were pleased to see him, there was
certain hesitation about their welcome.
He had run down unannourced, trust
ing to luck to obtain a room. To his
surprise and delight the house was
nearly empty.
The only other guest was a charm
ing young lady named Miss Marchant'
And, though they were introduced with
all informality, Miss Marchant-whose
name, Thornley, learned, was Rose
did not appear enthusiastic about be-
coming acquainted with him.
In fact, on the third morning Thorn
ley was so disgusted With his efforts
to win her friendship that he had al
most decided to leave for town.
lie was strolling along a country
lane in no pleasant mood when he
heard the sound Of a golloping horse
behind him. He turned, to see Miss
Marchant seated In the landlords old
fashioned buggy, while the pony, en-
tirely out Of hand, was running at full
speed toward the railroad line. And
a train was sounding In the distance
It was the work Of an instant for
Thornley, to spring forward and clutch
the pony's bride. Knocked down and
dragged for some distance though nc
was, he brought the trembling stced
to a standstill just as the train thun'
dered past.
He must have tainted for, when he
awoke, the pony was cropping grass
contentedly by the wayside, while Miss
Rose Marchant kneeled at his side
trying to>revive him.
you poor. brave mani" she said as
he opened his eyes.
1t was not the words, but something
in her tone that started Thornley,
Miss Marchant was addressing him
distinctly as though he were an infe
Cheraw chronicle. [volume] (Cheraw, S.C.) 1896-2005, 1914-09-24
Value Of Honey.

Honey is as wholesome and nourish'
Ing as concentrated refined cane sugar
Is unwholesome and lacking In nour'
ishment. Honey Is a medicine as we'll
as food Give 1t to the children IN
place of candy. Be sure, however, that
you get pure honey. Glucose Is more
harmful than sugar. There are impor.!
tant differences even in pure honey,
according to the conditions under which
It is made, Just as there Is great
difference in fruit. according to thel
soil on which 1t Is grown. Dark red
honey is much the best. although the
people demand light yellow honey,
Just as they insist on light colored
dried fruit. because they eat with
their eyes and do not think.
Cheraw chronicle. [volume] (Cheraw, S.C.) 1896-2005, 1914-09-24
Bird Farming for Revenue.

It IS quito within tho bounds Of pos
sibility that within a very few years
bird farming will be practiced in
the tropics. because the least civilized
OF men respond to the possibility OF
making money; and, whatever our per.
sonal views may be. it cannot be de-
MED that the demand for the skins and
feathers OF birds Is an ever-increasing
one, ard is following the growth Of
national wealth With committees for
economic preservation In the great cap
ttals of Europe, and with Il trade will
ing to accept their findings and give
prompt effect TO them we may look In
Il little time for the end OF reckless
killing and the recognition Of the SIM
pie truth that live bird capable Of
reproducing its species and renewing
its plumes is far more valuable than
dead one.
Cheraw chronicle. [volume] (Cheraw, S.C.) 1896-2005, 1914-09-24
Air Hardens Steel.

Steel hardening by spray Of
compressed air is the plan adopted for
certain special work In a German es-
tablishment For hardening only in
parts-such rs the surface Of rails and
points for sidings-the local quench-
ing in oil or water sets up dangerous
tension, and a new means has been
sought for giving a safe transition
from the hardened to the unhardened
material. The compressed air spray
is found to give the desired results.
The air reaches tho metal through
special nozzles, and accurately graded
degrees Of hardness are obtained by
regulating the number and arrange
ment Of holes in the nozzle. When
these are wide apart the surface IS
much affected, openings closer togeth.
er giving thinner skin.
Cheraw chronicle. [volume] (Cheraw, S.C.) 1896-2005, 1914-09-24
TROOPS SLEEP IN
FLOODED TRENCHES
RAIN MAKES ARMY LIFE WORSE
THAN EVER-RlGORS OF
FIGHT.
8 SHIPS ARE DESTROYED
Both Sides Report Losses Of Vessels
to the Enemy on the Seas.
Italy Reported Prepared.

Reports differ as to the progress OF
the great battle in Northern France
between the Allied British and French
armies and Germany. Some indicate
that there is extremely heavy fighting
while others tell of great masses OF
troops lying IN flooded trenches. many
OF them utterly exhausted.
At some points, at least, fierce en-
gagements have been fought with the
tide flowing first in one direction and
then in the other. The Allies have
won a position here and the Germans
have gained one there. But all re-
ports, official and otherwise, agree
that there is much fighting yet to be
done before any material advantage
can be claimed by either side.
The British in the trenches say:
1--WE are slowly beating them back
The French official statement de-
clares that though furiously counter
attacked by superior forces and OBJ
liged to yield some ground this was
regained almost Immediately. Berlin
officially announces that the Franco
British forces have been Obliged to
take the defensive in entrenched po'
sitions and that therefore the result
of the German attacks are slow. In
teresting information has been given
out by the British Admiralty regard
ing British successes and misfOr'
tunes in various waters. The British
merchant cruiser Carmania has sunk
a German merchant cruiser, supposed
to be either the Cap Trafalgar, or the
Berlin. off the coast Of South America,
but the German cruiser koenigsburS
has disabled the British cruiser Pc
gasus, while the latter was overhaul
ing her machinery in ZANZIBAR harbor,
killing % men and wounding more
than three times that number and the
German Cruiser Enden has sunk six
British merchant streamers In the
Bay of Bengal.
In fighting around Rheims the mat
destruction of the famous cathedral,
one of the most noted structures in
the world, dating back to the Thir-
teenth Century, which is reported to
have first been pierced by many Ger
man shells and then to have burst
into flames.
Against the destruction OF the cath
edral the French Government has de-
cided to send through diplomatic
channels a protest to all the Powers.
There has been review off the
Island of Halker, by the Sultan, Of the
Turkish feet, including the former
German cruisers, Breslau and Goeben,
after which the warships proceeded to
Constantinople for coal.
Italy. according to reports from
Rome. has more than half million
men under arms.