davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

FASHIONS in gloves undergo as
 many changes as do other vogues. but are less apparent to the eye or the casual observer than would be the changes recorded in other departments of WOInen's dress.
 That a vogue for long gloves is an immediate possibility is unquestioned.
 Newest of the new are the button white kid gloves displaying bracelet effect at the wrist line by an openwork band encircIing the arm at this point. made of apparently hemstitched kid.
 The upper portion of the glove is heavily embroidered and presents a most unusual appearances.
 Gloves of this description are on dig- play in New York stores side by side with the advance styles in silk gloves for spring, which seem to have copied and Improved upon the embroidered and decorated designs of. winter gloves they so closely emulate
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
Consolation Corner


 THE prettest women seen this win
 ter have completely gray or gray ing locks framing surprisingly youth ful faces. and they appear to be won derfuIIy proud of this certainly dis-
 One woman seen at a dsnsant fn one of the fAshionable restaurants war easily the handsofnesf woman i'm the room, Gowned all fin soft grays vith a vivid note of color appearing fin her corsaBe botquef ana a black hat perch ed modlshly upon her carefully colGed gray half she was the observed of alI observerse
 The woman who has been bewanine Anyhow, bewaiIfng begets wrink1ea. wash your hair thoroughly. rinse e with water which has been made faintly blue with laundry blufnr. pat it up in water waves and watch r5- suftsi
 Water waves give naturally curly appearances to the hair. 1t can be dope by rni1ady if she is not near shor where 1t is done. This Is the way te do 1t:
 Have the hair ciean and br1shed 4n- til it is glossy: then part the hair fr the center wet the comb in hot vvs fer then with the comb draw the hair into waves. plnning each wave closely. tit over the head 4thfn yell And over I that place a boudofr cap which con tains sachet bags of your own especiai perfume. When released from the pine the hair will have beautiful wave ] which will remain in for q week 1f fne waves are pinned in, each night buc without the use of water Too much can be arranged in any way that suits the face.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

with it's lovely unduIatfng effect when the wearer is in motion fs returning to favor; also plaited corsages and trimmings. The new taffeta, which. by the way, Is used lavishly this season, could be employed with good effect in a plaited model.
 A modish as well as an economical feature of the spring fashions is the separate coat to be worn over the spring dresses The gay and coquettish little coat pictured here is a domestic model of a new worsted mixture the silk trimming being in shades of rose. green and terra cotta The sdistfn- guishing features Of the coat are the huge sash bow across the back of the waist line. its full loose cut at the low CT edge and the wide collar ana cuffs of figured crape. The cord and tasseI knotted at the bust and below the waist line in the back are chic details
 By the way, this figured crape must be taken seriously by the woman who is considering her spring wardrobe. It comes in charming shades. will laun- der well and lends itself to the build ing of the new modes perfectly. A gown seen in one of the exclusive Fifth avenue shops had a pIafted skirt of plain white crape, with the most fasci- hating little Eton coat of white crepon embroidered in coarse wools of bewi1- dering shades This coarse wool ern. brofdery may sound queer, but in effect it was charming
 Mummy Drapery Attractive.
 The Crock illustrated here, which shows the .srnummyss draperY, is made of Egyptian crape and is daintily at tractive. The soft heaviness is ca- pecialIy adaptable for this mode. which is called also the s.spiral'' and the scorkscrew'' drapery.
 In this panegyric on the all ever printed and embroidered materials the bordered fabrics are being forgotten. There are many varieties. and they vie with the figured stuffs in popu- IaTity In this frock of lowered and bordered crape are an uncut effect and a fashionable iooseness which are very pleasing. an effect which could be easily carried out in machine embrotd- cred founcings. The wide girdie of nocturne satin is made adjustable by used on ether froclxs.
 i At the tango teas given every after noon from 4 to at all fashionable New York hotels are seen delightful little frocks Of taffeta cfarmet1se or crape. This model. shows blouse of cream net lace and a skirt of tango yellow taffeta trimmed with four four-inch ruff1es at the hip. An interesting fea- ture is the TOW of buttons on the ruff 1 fles.
 The new sfraws are expensively soft and supple; otherwise they would not take the lines and curves of grace in sisted upon this season. A smart model of tango yellow is a blocked hat. but possesses all the soft suppieness of draped hemp. The brirn is faced with black velvet. and a smartIy tied bow of the fashionable moire ribbon weights down the brim in front Goura |feathers f6rzn wreath around the sides and back. The hat makes g vivid note of color with an afternoon frock Of black charmeuse.
 MAY wILMOTH.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

Tn one color and white effects. par ticularly in the blue and Y hite. almost all the designs are geometrica1 and uni- form in arrangement.
 It is only where flower forms are used that kaleidoscopic alliance of color results
 Shanghai silks are heavy enough to drape we'll. but the fouIards are in very certain style position.
 The rivals for popular favor will be craped wools and silks. These may be printed inTcoiorful designs or may only be produced in solid color effects.
 For cottons the prospect is exceed ingly pleasing.
 White materials win occupy a great deal Of attention. Gowns made of white materials Particularly the sheer Ecottons and linens. will be replete with most exquisite trimming features and be emphasized by elaborate embroid- cries. much tucking and a great deal of lace and embroidery insertion and aeuncink.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
LONG SILK GLOVES NEW FANCY.

Silk gloves are ornate and are re- plete with most elaborate inserts of lace, as well as beautifully embrofder- ed designs done in colors or all white in black and white effects or in self tones.
 In fabric gloves and in chamofs the heavy double scanned stitched types are being steadily demanded.
 So cleyerly is the kid and dogskin glove initiated that many persons are deceived regarding the true textures of which the fabric glove Is composed. Not even in gray. tan or mocha shades can the deception be easily detected. and as these gloves are really tub gloves. cleaned with soap and water--daily. if ono desires-they almost seem to i'm prove in appearance after numbers of successive washings - all of which proves a boon to those compelled to
 use them daily and is an economical fashion.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

sdaintiesE Earb. fhe unfolding leaves exhibit the tenderest green, the cro- czses peep from the grass in jeweIed perfection and the feel. of the air is clean like a breath from the hills. All things become new. and the frock and hat And shoes which ni1ady wore in winter are discarded like an cutgrown chrYsa1is. s
 Through the Lenten season, when nrduons social duties are exchanged for naeditation, wonanlind can turn her mind to the grave question of how she s71an De clothed for the coming season It is well and hitting that she should 50 combine her religious exer- efses with thoughts of her clothes, and this is written with no desire to seem dlppant- Upon her clothing as upon
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
CLEANING JET oaNAMENTs.

LET ornaments are much worn now
 Bags belts. chains, shoe bprizle1. hair ornaments fans and ba&s. toEeth~ CT with Jet incrusted fabrics complete aabewildering list of glittering fanciesy but the woman who invests fn jet is often in despair over the duii aDpsar- arce of her ornaments after scr1e wear Here is the way to keep tha11
 Dip a soft cio1h fn equsI parts ot grain alcohol and tepid water and rub the jet with this Dry it tnorouehly with a clean cloth.
 Not much trouble. is ff9 But % is an effectfve method of brinEs9E bac5- pristine freshness 10 soffed 1et prra- nentsz
 If you have any old jet ogren1entg clean them in this way for rcrlers- Der that thelr acquired coatins cf Tnistiness Is dirt not an adsni Isble or essentiaI quality of ther antlquify. Like dingy painting of an old master or the moss covered ruin of sor-e medieval abbey the jet ornament ran- sacked from your ancestral trunk was built to look clean and briEhr and whole If you would admire it aa q rr1in let it Remain dimmed and farnta1- ed by time. If you would uEe ir fraah~ en 1t to the bsst of your ability
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
Iopsy Iuryy Gowns

IF yoa cannot write poems make
 yourself look like one. You may possess creative genius which will lift the conmonp1ace idea of making over an old gown to the dignity Of an epic, and in the general scheme of things the effect of a pretty gown may be as GarTeaci1zng and add as much to the wssh 1fing of nations poem. a pa1nted picture or q statue.
 A fesks syears ago we turned sleeves ab6uE and the fullness at the wrist of the bishop sleeve was gathered in at the sisoulder.
 Now a i've or a. seven gored skirt with a flare. or. even better. a circular skirt may be turned upside down with absolutely satisfactory results. Many women have dresses laid aside that becauEe they were Of a favorite color or material. possibly because they were worn seH par tfculaT5y happy occasions. for women have "a sentiment about their clothes that; they don't always zcknoHledg@. q and make them over Take a circular skirt. ts1rn it not only upside down but turn the back to the front as well that fss have the seam in the center of the front so that it can be slit a few inches at the bottom for greater ease Tn walking.
 If the skirt has q hem let it out and cut off the same number of inches from the bottom F(forner1y the top) to gain a little extra width. A slit four or five inches below the waist line is very much larger than at the actual waist 1Ines then lay what was the flare in the original skirt in folds or plaits. sewing it =to a boned and fitted belt.
 TAie will give the bouffant effect at the hips much in vogue and the tapering effect at the ankles. The skill lies in the arrangement of the folds. Every warnan who does much of her own dressmakfns ought to have a dummy nguHM if she can possibly man age it, A
 Tt fs far easier to give the artistic chathat is such an sinseparabIe part of ths elotkesSof today For this skirt a folded x11<zle Of sill with sash end should bs made to break the monotony of the piaits- ..s-e
 1.-the woman who works, and almost ali women who work must practice eco7on1ys w6uld rout out an old blue or black serge skirt and turn it upside down she would md herself in posses sion ef an extra skirt not extreme in style and quite suitable for office wear
 But here Is tip: If she could have the skirt washed In warm water and ivory soap and ironed on the wrong sfce pr what was the right. for with z.1efnS not only upside down and back t31e. would marvel at the result. Steam elsanff.e is all very well if one can't do befterzz but washing Is better. and good s&<ks Win nof s11rdnk and win not ruzt
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
Appetizing Fish Dishes

A s the Lenten season draws near the housewife searches out her recipes for making nsh dishes wholesome and palatable.
 butter. potatoes green vegetables and fruit they provide diet that will sup ply all the demands Of the body. This diet is especially desirable Tor persons of sedentary habits
 Fish may be boiled steamed. baked. into ramelxfns. served hot or cold in jelly and potted or pickled-
 Sardine Appetizer
 To one slice of bread take three sar- dimes. one tablespoonful of ketchup. one tablespoonful of lemon Juice and a dash of tomato sauce Drain the sar- diness then remove the skin and bones and spread the fish on the bread. Mix the ketchup. lemon juice and sauce and pour it over the sardines-
 sardines au Gratin.
 Drain the sardines from the oil Sprinkle the bottom of a shallow bak : ing tin or pie dish with fine dry crumbs and lay the sardines on this. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice on each one, strew over them more crumbs. dot with bits Of butter, cover and put in the oven- Cook thus for ten minutes. until the fish are heated through. Uncover and brown lightly.
 Grilfed. sardines.
 Free the sardines from oil. put a small piece of butter in a frying pan and lay the sardines In this. Cook for about five minutes turning them with a fork. being careful not to break them and transfer to squares of toast on q hot pIatter- Serve with sliced lemon or pickles
 Picked Up Goldfish.
 Place a pint of salt codfish in cold water for several hours. picked into little bits. Drain well and add pint
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

Escalded stir in one fourth Fcupful of -four mixed to smooth paste with one-fourth cupful of milk. Stir con Estantly until the boiling point is reach ed: then allow to cook over hot water for ten minutes Just before serving stir in two eggs. lightly beaten
 Herring Appetizer.
 Buy prepared herring and cut them into one inch strips and lay on the plate and garnish with strips of pi- nentos or canned red peppers
 codfish Balls. ss <
 Wash and pick in very small pieces one clipfui of salt codffsh. Wash. pare and soak two cupfuls of potatoes cut in uniform size Mix the fish and po- tatoes and cook in boiling water. GOV cred. until the potatoes are soft Drain thoroughly. return to the hot saucepan in which they were cooked and mash thoroughly, being sure there are no Jumps left in the potato Add one egg well beaten. one-half tablespoonful of butter and one-eighth teaspoonsu suf of pepper Beat two minutes and add salt if necessary. InInerse in deep fat and fry one nlnute then drain on brown paper Reheat the fat after each frying. The fat is sof the right emperature for frying when an inch cube of bread from the soft part of the loaf Will fry to golden brown in forty seconds.
 Goldfish FrItters.
 Cut the codf1sh in strips about the size of the. finger. Soak overnight In the morning dry in a towel dip each piece in batter made of eggs milk and flour and fry brown in lot fat.
 Goldfish Souffie.
 Use the leftover codfsh in souff1e. Mix one cupfH of boiled and fiaked codfsh one cupful of mashed potatoes. one-half cupful of milk. one we'll beat en egg, salt and pepper to taste put into a buttered baking dish and bake until brown Serve hot
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
sHApEs roR EvENINe 6 MAI.

SHADES FOR EVENING WEAR |TNHE 1oveliest tones of cherry. cur ss rant. raspberry and rhododendron pink are seen in the new materials for evening wear also tender shades of lime blossom, peach. lemon and red- dish mauve. These have almost invari- ably tunic of some transparent fab ric so diaphanous as to showe tl1e charm reuse or crepe brocIe Of the un- derskirt-
 ing rather to a point in front or to the bretene form instead Of the crossing from shoulder to waist. The normal waist Is in again. and there are all kinds of decorative belts in velvet or satin. many Of them finished with a satin petaled flower or with a bunch of violets or lilies of the valley. rem dered stiH more true to nature by the acompanying appropriate perfume.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
THE TROUSERS GOWN A QUEER
 FASHION QUlRK-

HAVE you seen the new trousers
 gown? One was shown fB a shop built of the ever reliable blue serge. The skirt was slit to the knees at each side and was equipped with buttons and buttonholes- Under thls slcirt were the smartest. most mannish trou- sers imaginable. even to the cuffs ar the bottom of the trousers legs. A taunty, short cutaway coat with collar and cuffs of wool embroidered creDoa. was worn with the skirt
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

abolished the horrible hoblole skirt.
 While the skirt is still narrow about
 the feet, it issnarrowness with a differ
 ence. As the fair one gracefully tan- goes. the softly draped skirt slips away
 from the feet dfscfosfng de1ectable
 underskfrt of lace or net. SIoWIy-for all changes are slow-but none the less surely we are choosing for our gowns long flowing lines, equally becoming to the tall and the short, the thin and the htout woman.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
ro cIEAN HATRE1ust5Ea-

DUT a tablespoonful of ammonia Into a basin of tepid water in which a small amount of soap has been dfs- solved Dip the. brushes up and down until they are clean. Wipe carefully and put in the sun. bristles down. to dry.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

Bits of handsome passementer1e can be used to advantage in the fashion ing of coiffure ornaments, as anything in the way of metallic or bead trim ming is especially enective when worn under artificial light
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

her religion hinges many wonlan.s chance Of happiness
 How to Be WeIi Clothed.
 To be well gowned and then to for get it Is the beginning of wisdom Pay attention to details. be reasonable and sane as to expenditure. wear your.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
Boy s Belted Sui

CORDUROY was chosen for this
 serviceabIe and attractive boys suit. and. though white was used in this illustration. it can be easily
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25
< sEAuTY HINT

rTHo1dAS A. EDISON says that sy
 cutting down sleep to gl1 boutg nightly one can banish surpiuir chm
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

Some fashion writers insist that the disdguring hustle is once more to be in vogue. but, along with the ..slinker,s slouch." the name given to the fash ionabIe dropping figure of a season ago. let us hope 1t will be forever taboo by well gowned women.
 The new fabrics seen in the exclu- sive shops are lovely. Foremost are the imported cbtfon crapes both the printed and embroidered varieties. Ra- tine. cotton duvetyn, cotton matelasse, all friends of winter. are made into fabrics of bewildering co1orings suit able for spring and summer
 Piaited Skirts Fashionable.
 The leading dressmakers Of the Rue de Ia Paix tell US that the plafted skirt
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

gown to the place for which 1t was made and at the right time of day. se- lect an individual coinure and adhere to 1t no matter what others do. choose your color with due regard for your hair and eyes and skin and you shall
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1914-03-25

fi7 me spring a fuller crimson comes upon
 the robin's breast:
 Tn the spring the wanton lapw1ns sets
 himself another crest
 H A1vELY enough the feninilne MI ha1f of the humaf.s takes to
 herself the prerogative of the male half of tho bird kingdom and in the springtime gets herself clothes. It is the season when nature joyfully clothes herself in her
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-30
SWEDES ARE REPORTED
ANGERED AT GERMANS
Berlin Said to Have Threatened Re
prisals Because of Newspaper
Criticism.

LONDON, November 30.-The Daily
Mails Copenhagen correspondent says
Germany has demanded that the Swed-
ish government suppress unfriendly
utterances against Germany in Swedish
newspapers and has threatened re-
prisals in the event of noncompliance.
The same correspondent represents
that Germany's declaration making
wood contraband of war has caused a
tremendous revulsion of feeling in
Sweden and Norway against Germany
and agitation for an understanding
with Russia. Sweden's loss by reason
of this declaration, as estimated by
the correspondent, will amount to $15,-
900 a year.
THE temper of the Swedes,' says the
correspondent, "is such that they are
discussing whether or not it would be
advisable to send cargoes of wood to
England through the Kattegat and
Skager-Rak under escort of Swedish
warships and defy the Germans to at
tack them. 1t is contended that
Sweden, Norway and Russia could form
"a profitable commercial agreement
which would be greatly to the ad-
vantage of themselves and the allies
and to the disadvantage of the Ger
mans"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-30
KAISER PRAISES CHANCELLOR
Foremost Among Chosen by Provi.
dence for Great Work.

LONDON, November 3O-Telegraph-
ing from Berlin by way of Amster-
dam, Reuters correspondent sends the
following official announcements:
Emperor William has sent this
birthday telegram to DR.. Won Beth
mann-Holweg, the German imperial
chancellor:
LAS the head of the German empire
l come to your excellency with con-
CALCULATIONS of particular kind. Pluck
is necessary to pilot the ship of state
through stormy times into the harbor
and for this purpose Providence en-
pIoys men who know how to fight
nrmIy and steadily, and to keep the
welfare of the fatherland in mind until
the great aim is accomplished.
Among those men, your excel1ency
occupies first place. The German people
know it and 1 know it. God bless
your work.
WILHELM
The chancellor in reply, thanking
the emperor, said the Impressions he
had received in Berlin gave him con-
tidence that the population was firm
in the determination to fight until u
final victory was secured"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-30
HONOR PAID THE MAN
WHO FOUGHT WITH WATER
Decoration of the Dyke Keeper for
Suggesting the Flooding of
German Positions.

Correspondence of the Associated Press
DUNKIRK, France, November 2.-The
man who planned the flooding of the
German position on the User has been
decorated with the Order of King Leo
pold, and is likely to receive some sim
liar recognition from the allies govern
ments. This man. whose name has not
been made public, is the keeper of the
great Newport sluices, which control the
water in the canals and dykes. His po-
sition gave him an unrivaled knowl-
edge of the possibilities of inundating
the country and he pointed out to the
Belgian general staff that by using
the railway embankment as a dyke
and by breaking the canal bank in
certain places they could inundate most
of the region occupied by the German
trenches and advanced gun positions.
His plan was at once adopted. The
culverts in the railway embankment were
filed with sand and gravel and then the
fire of the heavy guns was concentrated
on points in the canal bank until it burst
and the water spread out over the fields
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-30
BELGIANS' DECEMBER NEED
is 10000 TONS OF FOOD
Rockefeller Foundation Committee
So Reports and Says Distribution
Work Is Efficient.

NEW YORK. November 3O.-The
Rockefeller Foundation. in a statement
last night, said it has received from its
war relief commission at Rotterdam a
very favorable report on the efficiency
of the organizatio for the distribution
of food and clothing for the needy
Belgians. Wickliffe Rose, chairman of
the foundations commission. reports
that contributions of 10000 tons in ad
dftion to the cargoes already assured
must be shipped during December.
Arrangements have been made, the
foundation states, for the transporta-
ton of 25.OOo.00O pounds of food to
reach the suffering Belgians before the
first of the year. In addition to the
steamer Massapequa. the Agamemnon,
Neches and Ferrona are to be loaded
within few days.
The American commission for relief
in Belgium has also arranged for the
dispatching of several cargoes. The
first early shipment will be on the
steamer Bastican which sails from
Philadelphia December 5. carrying a
cargo of 100000 bushels of wheat.
Other ships listed for early sailing in
clude the Hannah from New York, the
John Hardie and the Lynerta from Bal
timore and the Kentigern from New
York. Ships from San Francisco and
Puget sound carrying Puget sound
donations are also to leave soon, via
the Panama canal.