davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1914-04-25
FASHIONS AND FADS

Pretty buttons are of galalith decor
atcd with gilt ON Chinese characters.
Most sashcs have their ends weighted
with heavy ornaments or tassels
Jcweled or fancy pins are almost in
dispensable to the present daytime Golf
fure.
Dancing frock is word applied as
often TO afternoon dresses as to evening.
Charming evening frocks are made al
together OF net. dull rose or dull blue
Queer green and blue tones are seen
in many of the new checked utility
coats.
Large brilliant -colored buttons are Of
ten the only spot Of color ON a dark
suit
silk Collin is one of the new materials
for club coats Tor sports and country
wear
Rose color. il is said will dominate
cottons, linens and sheer tissues for
spring.
White organdy cuffs and collars are
much in evidence on silk or gabardins
dresses.
Dutch suits are the latest to Join the
for little boys.
Spotted materials are among the rivals
ito the checks and plaids for waistcoats
and tunic edging.
Delightful lace scarfs are edged around
with ostrich feathering OF two or three
shades of one color
Vivid and large poinsettas make the
( splash OF color on big hats of black or
] 90 -
moire covered shape win twist its BIZ
brim up at .hc left, or at the back, and
beneath its shadow will be perched the
flowers of red
Pretty shopping hats are of the sailor
variety with narrow brims and soft
lcrowns. which Just tit the head widen
out until at the top, where the stiil
crown band of ribbon terminates. they
are almost OF the same circumference
as the brims
Freakish is the proper word to apply
to some OF the evening stockings tina;
are being worn. Butterflies and moths
appear TO fly over them. and are en-
hrodcred upon the silk webbing OF the
stockings in brilliant colors. while won
derfu rainbow effects are produced by
bead cmbroideries.
III Inc tWo-Diimmeu hal Is ho7N ~
coming to many pretty faces. White
duvetyn is chosen for the top hrlm
which is so Hat as to almost do away
with the appearance OF a separate crown
A irill of lace hanging from the top brin
is n fancy that wells the wreath of roses
or rim OF fur. that connects the two.
One OF the new belts is so broad thai
it gives the empire effect above TN
waistline and below fitting smooth owe
the hips secures for them the approve
appearance of slenden1rss. At the ief
side there is single broad end, whicl
tapers gradually toward the knee AM
Terminates in a deep fringe.
Evening journal., 1914-04-25
HOUSEHOLD NOTES.

Pots and pans should receive the
most scrupulous care. For instance,
a skillet which has been used for
trying should have two washings, the
last in boiling-hot soapsuds. The
saucepans and pots should undergo
The same treatment and when the
vegetables or soups or cream sauce
have been put into their respective
dishes ready for the dining ROOM the
pans should be filled at once with
warm water; they will be much
easier to wash.
The kitchen range can be man
aged in a way to save fuel. Upon
rising in the morning. turn over the
CRATE. open the draughts for a few
minutes. When the Goals begin to
brighten the draught should be shut
off, Then breakfast can be prepared
md the fire used for an hour after
ward without replenishing. This
method can be repeated at each meal
The oven heats more easily if the fire
Is clean and the fire box not more
than half lhll of coal
Evening journal., 1914-04-25

These pantalettes are not the gar
ment as we understand them, but are
two fitted leglets that follow the line
of the leg from the knee to the ankle.
But the really interesting part of this
question is that the idea was not sug
gested or brought about by a re-
version to the clothes of our grand
parents. but by the most ultra of
modernists, Leon Bakst. II is an ev-
olution of the Persian influence
which he introduced upon the stage
and Poiret exploited so successfully
year ago.
Another Old-fashioned idea which
is forcing itself again to the front is
the tight-fitting basque, with darts in
the front and three seams in the
back. Il is also seen with the semi
fitted front and a very loosely fitting
back. One novel gown which | saw
had the back and sleeves in one. and
the front, giving a basque effect, be-
gan at yoke-line across the bust; 1t
buttoned down the front, and was
slightly lifted below the waistline
with a sash, which tied in the back
The skirt which joined the basque
was draped and pulled up into an
old-fashioned pull back" giving the
appearance OF the polonaise of 1880.
After each war some new style has
appeared which has resulted from the
/ types of costumes in the various
countries involved. From these
/ sources have come the Russian
| blouse, japanese and Balkan effects.
/ 1t is not to be wondered at that Mex
] leo should prove an inspiration for
revolution even in dress. The wide
trousers of the men and the brilliant
national colors have already given
birth to the idea of a striking cos
tune of khaki-colored gabardine,
with ban trimming down either side
of the skirt Beneath the white linen
4 collar on the bodice, which is piped
in red and yellow, lies a second col
lar of white crepe The flaring cuffs
and red and yellow striped sash give
the chic finish TO the costume.
The striking development of tha
frock which l have used for my first
Illustration is both interesting and
smart. The raglan sleeves are of the
checked fabric, and the body of the
waist is of taffeta matching the deep
er-colored check. and a pleated tuniC
of this same material is placed over
skirt of check The cleverly-cui
belt of checked material, with but
tons covered with taffeta, and far
ing organdy collar complete this cos
. tune. whose good cut is enhanced
by the fascinating combination Of ma.
.erials.
An unusually up-to-date combina-
ton which appeals TO the woman
whose taste prefers the quieter blend.
ing of colors and fabrics is the com.
bination of serge and satin of the
same or contrasting color, such a:
blue and black. or black and black.
An evening frock of two-toneC
taffeta-pink and purple, giving a
mauve effects the model for m,
second illustration. The simple
bodice is developed in shadow Lace
= - t-taa-. .----------i-s s@-~t-.s -
Evening journal., 1914-04-25
THE RENAISSANCE
OF THE POLONAISE
Basques and Short Skirts
Demand OVeFSkin
Draperies
A MEDLEY OF REVEALS

Although the first wave of excite
ment caused by the Spring openings
has vanished. it has left behind a
hundred little ripples of interest,
each emanating from some question
of the new styles. or course, everyone
was prepared for the fuller skirts;
but the collars which almost cover
the mouth. coats with no sleeves, and
dresses of white damask are still sub
iect of nine days wonderment
The appearance of pantalettes OF
sheer muslin or lace are not TO be
considered at all seriously in them.
selves: il is only what they fore
shadow which gives them so much in
terest. First. they mean shorter
skirts. as were shown by some of the
French dressmakers. who made them
so short that OF necessity something
had to be added, and the very mar
now underskirt was split into the
pantalette. Possibly the next thinl
thing will be that the pantalettes will
/ be dropped. leaving the ankles well
/ exposed
Evening journal., 1914-04-25
THE Rabbits Foot"
Atainahle Beauty
Women at By GWEN SEARS
No Expense
Copyright 1873 BY H. J. -sr-
A Talk for the Business Girl

the goddess
5ut and her handmaden Youth than the girl who stays home The
the
the oft times nights seepessness and long
the
rackng all against her fact she has but hghtng
beautiful
The business girl should try to get at least eight hours of sound sleep
agreeable thought
halfcosed though
the
her beauty.
possibly avoid IT,
do
Office
o OF
everything possible
that
chair that
N of he spin vii be resting OIL he
Girl chief
n being a your work
Evening journal., 1914-04-25

bib of the silk extends upwards on /
the waist from the waistline The |
skirt of taffeta has charmingly /
rufiied pannier.
The accessories Of dress are always /
chemisettes. collars and guimpes |
which are worn with all kinds of /
gowns this season. The shops show |
them in many attractive styles, far
ing collars, low collars and wide coll
lars The fronts of the chemisettes,
or guimpes. are simply Tapped and
fastened with tiny crochet buttons.
These are often made of organdy,
Swiss and the sheerest of batiste,
hand-embrOidered hand-tucked and
pleated. The same pattern may pro-
duce any number of these. which may
be trimmed I'm such various ways that
they seem quite different Some are
made double and others hemstitched
above the hem. Fagoting is another
simple way Of embellishing these.
Edging of embroidery can be used
very successfully by mitering the
corners Of the collar and making the
embroidery edges meet down the
front
Quite as interesting as the new de-
signs are the new materials. or
these the changeable two-toned taft
fetas are first in favor. They are
brilliant and very supple, adapting
themselves gracefully to the drap-
cries Of the moment The plaid taft
feta must not be forgotten, for IL
holds an important place in a season
where combinations and contrasts
are the order of the mode. Silk garba-
dine is being used a great deal. It
D looks Just like its wool prototype, eX-
cept that IL is silk Damask is an
other favorite material for summer
dresses. Tempting new wash mater
- ials embrace many kinds of crepe, silk
G and cotton. It is interesting TO note
e what beautiful copies of expensive
!. wool, wool silk, and satin crepes are
S successfully reproduced I'm cotton.
- Even the heavy white satin Chinois is
- copied, and the result is a very excel
70 lent and durable cotton tussur crepe.
f It is seen I'm many colors, and is an
= excellent substitute for the smooth
Q linen which is used so often for sum-
@ mer tub frocks.
y Embroidery is being used on all the
summer fabrics, not only on the ma
!, terial used for lingerie dresses. but
. upon taffeta silk in self toned and
: brilliant colorings. It is also much
= . used for finishing sash ends and CIR
dies in an attractive way. The gir-
; dies Of the tailored suits are often OF
2 the same material as the suit and
y embroidered stifliy. embroidered and
u braided. or braided on a colored ma
!. terial in black blue, red and yellow
i The oblique pocket openings on skirts
s are also treated in this same way.
Evening journal., 1914-04-25
SPECIALISTS FOR MEN
| DrS. LAGRANGE & JORDAN
The Best KnOwn-KnOwH as the Best
In Philadelphia Since 1858.

We are Specialists in the treatment
OF Nervous. Skin, Blood, Private and
Pelvic Diseases.
We remove the effects Of youthful
errors and later eNcesses, and restore
the strength, vigor and vitality OF
normal manhood.
If you are afflicted with some Sc
cret ailment. the effects of contracted
blood poison or local disease. or If
You have been improperly treated.
come and let us show you what real
specialists and modern methods can
do. Ii you have pimples, eruptions
OF sores on yoT face or body, un-
natural discharges, losses. or drains
of a weakening nature, kidney, blad-
der or urinary trouble. call at our
Office and we will explain everything
| to you.
Do you contemplate marriageg Do
l not take this important step unless
| YOU are sure that you are free from
1 the effects of early indiscretions or
1 contracted disease. A laboratory test
| OF the blood and urine viii remove
all doubts as to your condition.
Advice and consultation always free
and confidential.
Office Hours-0 a. M. to P. NJ.
and 9 to s p. NJ. Sundays and Hoii-
days. o A. NJ. to - NJ only.
When in Philadelphia do not fail
TO visit The Great European Museum
All diseases Reproduced in wax.
Send for our free book, "Ihe Key
10 Men"
DRS. LAGRANGE & JORDAN
80 Chestnut Ct philadelphia
I'd Floor European Museum Building.
Evening journal., 1914-04-25
THE JOY OF DANCING EXERCISE

-r' ices women OF men seem to care TO
Tango or get Dancing Exercise unless they
are assured the freedom from aching feet
that Aliens Foot Ease. the antseptc powder
20 be shaken into the shoes. always gives
Since the tendency TO hold Dancing parties
has become almost a daily and hourly neces-
sity in every community the sale of Allen
Foot Ease so the Druggists report hns
reached the high water mark Sold Every
where 25c. Trial package FREE. Address
Allen s. Olmsted. lie Roy, n. Y.
Evening journal., 1914-04-25

ID. Ross & Son, Inc, 2O6-1O Market
street, are the exclusive agents for
Mccall patterns and publications, and
carry in stock over 10000 dress pat
terms of the latest Paris. London and
New York styles from which the
ladies' of wilmington can supply their
patterns.-Adv.
Evening journal., 1914-04-25

There arc all sorts of bargains in jew
elry. watches and clocks. These are OF
daily occurrence at the Rudolph sale. Ad.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04
Another Busy ExpIainer.

Another busy explainer is Secretary
Wilson, of the department of labor
who has been doing his best to ex.
plain to the wage-earners of the
country why so many of them are
idle. He hasn't put it over yet. He
thought he had it when is issued a
statement that there were plenty OF
jobs in the harvest fields Of Kansas
and Missouri, but, somehow or other,
the Secretary failed to point out just
how the workingman was to get up
and leave his family and take a thou
sandmile trip to the harvest fields on
the chance of getting work. These
men have been pretty persistent in
wanting to know why they could not
keep the jobs they had under Repuo-
lean rule. Secretary Wilson has not
yet taken up the phase of the inquiry.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

shipped to the Denver market, two
to Omaha, two to St. Louis and one
to Kansas City.
The monthly stock sales of the
Union Stockyards company opened
here Tuesday, to continue through
Wednesday and Thursday. Attractive
listings of horses, mules, and both
dairy and stock cattle have been Sc
cured for the event, and it is probable
that several more cans of stock will
be shipped from the local yards this
week.
Ed. Stouffer of the Circle Bar"
ranch in the Juniper section, one of
the largest and best known ranchers
along the Nevada line, is expected to
arrive here the latter part of the week
with between 800 and 400 head of
horses. 1t is anticipated that much of
this stock will be purchased by the
United States army buyers for cavalry
and artillery service. The Circle
Bar" stock was listed by c. H. Turner
of Caldwell on one of his recent trips
through Nevada and central Oregon.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04
TRIBUNE PIANO CONTEST
CLOSES SEPTEMBER 18th

Only a Few Days in Which to Work
for the beautiful Piano-Last Strug-
gle for Capital Prize Now at its
Height - Many Other Valuable
Prizes Sought For.
Their is now but eight more days
in which the candidates engaged III
The Trhune's popular voting contest
have to work for the several prizes
offered. The voting comes TO an end
Saturday. September II, at three
o'clock, and Immediately thereafter
the count will be commenced to see
who shall be declared the winner OF
the splendid Obemcyer piano and the
other beautiful and useful articles Of
fered to those who are making an
endeavor to land the premiums. 1t
is not believed by those who have
given the mceter careful thought that
any particular person has the grand
prize cinched at the present time, but
there are several in the race who have
a good chance to land it il they will
only hustle
If you have not yet seen the fine
piano offered in this contest go to
Peckham- Case Furniture Company S
store and take a look at it, Many OF
our citizens have examined the in
strument as to its quality and appear
ance and there is yet the first one to
say that it is not fine one. 1t is OF
a plain rich mahogany, and a prettier
piano was never unloaded in the city
Musicians of this section have tested
it as to its quality of tone and volume
and every one Of them say it is fine
as silk.
There are several young ladies who
appear to have the best Of the CON
test but none Of them has sure cinch
on being the ultimate owner of the
first prize If one of these contestants
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

who is way down the list should take
it into her head that she was going to
win the big premium, she could do
so. She would have to do some work
to make it, but that was what was
expected when the contest opened.
Several punches Of seven new sub
scribers or renewals in groupes of
seven would put the lowest candidate
in the race UP among the leaders.
For those who wish to vote with
out any competitor seeing them, The
Tribune desires to state that cash
with your subscription, telling where
the paper is to be sent and to whom
the votes shall be given, can be
placed in an envelope and sent in to
this office.
Miss Ncma Deordorf was in the
lead at the last count. Several others
were well to the front and are putting
forth every effort on the home stretch
to win the coveted prize. Either of
these ladies can land the prize if they
take the time to get out and solicit
new subscribers and renewals.
The voting will cease on the 18th
and the final count will be made that
evening. This is but short time
ahead and it is worth the while of the
candidates to get out among the PEG
pie and work like Trojans from now
until the ballot box is closed at three
O'Clock in the afternoon of the day
mentioned No ballots will be re-
ceived after four o'clock under any
circumstances, no matter who may
have them or what excuse they may
present for not getting them in at the
proper time.
The contest is on the square and
there is 10 be fair field and no ia
vorites.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04
NO LABOR DAY PARADE
IN NEW YORK THIS YEAR

For the first time in thirty years,
there will be no labor day parade in
New York City this fall The labor
unions have decided to take the mon
ey the parade would cost and use it
to relieve unemployed men.
In times past, in New York City,
many thousands of union men have
marched on the first Monday in Sep
TENDER. Their parades have been
spectacular No money was spared in
making them a success. The horses
in the parades were union-shod and
the men union-equipped. There were
union bands and union badges. There
were union-made uniforms and union
refreshments. SO that the expense to
the union men for their Labor Day
parade, in one way or another, led to
an expenditure running into a great
sum of money. All this is to be fore
gone this year and the unions, very
commercially, will turn the money to
help their unemployed brothers.
This instance of practicle charity
on the part of union organizations is
attracting wide attention over all the
United States and has caused con-
siderable comment, especially in view
of President Wilson's statement that
the hard times are merely "phycho-
logical"
One good-natured workman says
he is getting psychological pay
checks" He also saws he is buying
psychological shoes" and probably
will soon be eating out of psychic
logical dinner pal"
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

an address on "The Labor Problem. "
Mr.. Varney is himself the master of
several trades, and has been the fra
ternal delegate 10 a Central Labor
Union, and hence has the working
mans point of view. In the morning
the sermon will he on Mountain
Climbing" a part of the vacation
aftermath. All are cordially invited
to these services. Sunday school at
1890 a. m At this time the certih-
Gates will be presented to the men,
bers of the training class. The adult
Bible class will be divided, Mrs. Clip
son resuming her work as teacher OF
the woman's class. The young peoples
meeting at ZOO m, will be unique,
being camp fire meeting.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

dotting an i in it under the most tyr
annical of gage rules ever enforced in
recent years in congress. At the last
moment. when the bill went to con-
ference between the two houses, the
door was shut in the face of the re
preventative Of the Republican party
on the conference committee of the
house, thereby DISTINGUISHING millions
of Republicans of the country in the
making of the law.
And up to date, every nomination
of President Wilson for members of
the federal reserve board has been
that of a Democrat!
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04
A Promising" Little Statement.

Now comes Secretary McAdoo
with promising" little statement
that we are going to have,-in time
a hundred per cent in gold behind our
greenbacks. Workingmer say they
are willing to take chances on the
hundred cents, if they can only get
the greenbacks. But President Will
sons talented son-in-law fails to ex-
plain just how he is going to bring
that about He says no necessity
for bond issue is "in sight" just now
and that new federal reserve system
on which President Wilson tried to
force the appointment of Thomas D.
Jones, the dummy" director of the
Harvester Trust, promises a wonder
ful period of financial stability.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

The currency bill was heralded to
the country last summer as an abb
solutely nontpartisan measure. Yet
it was formulated in every detail be-
hind the closed doors Of secret
Democratic caucus. All Republicans
upon the floor of the house that took
the administration at it's word and
were eager and willing to help per-
feet it into truly non-partisdan law,
(knowing and conceding that the
Democratic administration would get
the credit for it when it passed., were
denied the privilege of crossing a t or
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

answer for himself, however, has
nothing to do With the war. 1t is
simply, wha. was happening to the
country in the way OF business and
financial depression as the result Of
Democratic misgovernment for
months before the war broke out
And, answering that the voter may
ask again how much worse off will
this land of ours be along this same
direction now chat the war is on and
the revenues Of boosted "competi-
tive tariff" that were fast diminishing
during a time. of peace, must decrease
still further because foreign "compe-
tition" is stiAed by the conflict OF
arms abroad.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

If this country had been enjoying
the benefits of a Republican protec-
tive tariff for the past year and half,
instead of being under the Under,
wood Democratic makeshift, it would
not now be confronted with the nee
essity for imposing the always hatred
internal revenue wan tax in order to
meet the expenses of government.
md that too, all because of a war in
which they have no part.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

among the presidents mouthpieces
nowadays is to come out with boom
statements, expressing the Presidents
view that the general business depres-
sion is merely psychological" Pro-
lessor Wilson is telling big business
men whom he has been calling in to
see him that business is looking up. -
"Of course it is" said an Indiana
man in Washington the other day.
It's fiat on its back and it can't look
any other way"
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

Talk prosperity and lay all our
partys misfortunes on the war" is the
order evidently passed out by the
President to his cabinet and all other
appointees of his who obey him as he
is accustomed to have his students in
college do The result is that mem.
bers Of the cabinet and departmental
officials have been very busy lately
The favorite Monday morning stun,
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1914-09-04

The people are watching with a
grim smile while the Democrats are
vainly trying to transform the old
Ship of State into merchant marine,
now that the war in Europe has
brought home to this country at last
the greatest necessity for the upbuild-
ng Of American shipping along lines
advocated by the Republican party
Tor years.