The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-02-08
Joining bv Hand.

Where a lace edgng ruffle is used with
the facing it is basted to the bottom of the
garment, the facing basted on top and all
sewed in a narrow seam and the facing turned
up into place after the hastings have been
ripped.
When joining lace or insertion by hand for
a ruff1e, strips the required depth for the ruff
fie are cut by drawing thread il possible.
Holding the wrong side of the material to-
ward you roll the edge from right to left be-
tween the thumb and first finger of the left
hand. Place the lace with right side to right
side of the material and overcast neatly to-
gether.
An easy way to adjust an embroidery edg-
ing when it is put on without gathers is to
use the upper part of it facing. Draw
line or colored basting thread-if the mate
rial will not crease--to the desired depth of
the trimming. Adjust the embroidery with
right side to right side of garment, and baste
along the chalk or creased line, making a
narrow seam on the inside of the garment.
Stitch by machine or hand. Turn the edg-
ing down and crease the seam hard, then
turn in the upper edge of the trimming and
hem down as a facing to the garment.
II *
Machine and Hand Tucking.
Tucking forms an important part of lingerie
and summer clothes. 1t is done before the
garment is cut out usually, at least on a
blouse. night dress. corset cover, and the like.
For skirt the extra amount of material
needed for the tucks Is measured and al
lowed for in the cutting.
Neat tuckng is done by the machine. With
q little practice even the novice can tuck
deliberately. The succeeding tuck is meas
ured by the foot, which greatly simplifies the
10,
ever, the first tuck of each succeeding group
will have to be measured by hand. Leave
enough thread at the end of each tuck to
draw on the under side and tie for firm
and neat finish.
Ruffies of lace are usually overcast to the
finished edge of garment if they are not
set on top with a gathered head. Where the
lace permits do the gathering by drawing
the top thread of the ruffle. Embroidered
ruffies when set on the body of garment
may have the gathered heading or can have
a bias band or other trimming sewed over
the raw edge of the ruffie. When insertion
heads the ruffie they are Joined by French
seam
Ruffies may be inserted in the end of
hem by holding the hem to the right side or
the garment and creasing the fold firmly.
Divide ruffle and hem in quarters as usual
and mark each section with pins or colored
Thread. Insert the edge Of the ruffie in the
hem close to the fold, placing right side to
right side. Basic and stitch quarter inch
from the fold. Turn the hem back to the
wrong side of the garment; fold in narrow
upper edge. baste. and hem by hand or ma
chine.
When facing Is used for set on ruffle
baste right side to right side with gathered
edge down. Sew the lower edge of the fac
Ing on top Of this rufiie. seam and stitch all
together. Turn the seam up on the wrong
side and stitch the turned In upper edge of
the facing to the garment. or hem it.
Frequently the raw edge Of the ruffie
seams 10 turned up on the garment on the
wrong or the right side as desired and COW
cred with the bias banding that can be bought
ready for using.