Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-10-05

NOT YET KNOWN
ACROSS BIGPOND

Quarter sizes are practically UNI
known abroad. Shirts, collars, under
wear and shoes are calculated accord
ing to some arbitrary scale, and the
people are expected TO fit themselves
to the clothes Any i'll starred Euro
pean who is betwixt and between the
standard sizes emigrates to the United
States for proper treatment or passes
his life in the undeSeryed Obscurity or
misfit clothes, Still. during the last
few years, it is true, a reform move
ment, starting from New York city,
has grown in Europe and accomplished
wonders in dispelling erroneous no
tons current there concerning cloth
ing. its uses and abuses.
American Independence a Fact.
It, therefore, seems fair to conclude
that the American man has little to
fear from an enforced Independence of
the London fashion designers. He has
been independent fer many years, and
it now only remains for him to ac'
knowledge New York before London.
If he really wishes to initiate London
styles let him take pencil and paper
and design his own clothes. He can
not 60 far of the track, for the less
he knows about the work the nearer
he will come to true European excel.
lence The case with women's fash.
ions, on the other hand, is an entirely
different one. /
Paris has been fndisputably the CEN
ter Of women's fashions and IL has
ruled In this realm with brassy, ex'
. Be-
ell of grand potentates over the yaga'
ries of women's fashions is the heads
Of seven famous Paris houses for the
preparation Of dress corrections. The
mystic Paris seven are Nine. Paquin,
the Callot sisters, Nine. Chertqs6 Dou'
Get, Worth and Francis This Neeeheil
ferns enc of the best dividend bring.
ing ideas in all France Furthermore,
ii has succeeded in upholding the
prestige Of the tricolor in the estima.
tien CT every household head around
the civilized world .-*
Will Paris Lose Its Way
Will the war put an end to that i'm.
palpabie export, womenfs styles?
While 1t is probable that few actual
gowns will find their way from Paris
here this fall and winter, il does seem
likely that the redoabtable seven will
seek to maintain their valuable au-
thority here by sending a full set of
specifications, regulations and direc.
tons. Should Paris lose it's weird in
f1uence this must become an unhappy,
stEaitened country However, there
are other prospects. New York may
succeed in developing as internally
complex a brand of legie wherewith
to approach the work Of creating wo-
mems dress as Paris ever dared when
at its best. Or the American women
may do with their freedom what the
American men did after the establish.
fnent CT their Independence of London
they may bring the subject OF dress
into the field Of serenity.
I On second thought the United States
has had considerable experience with
the making CT Paris gowns. 1t has
1cng been an open secret that not
everything which contains a Paris la
bel is made upon the Seine. Imita-
items Of the labels of the renowned
Paris firms can be purchased by the
wholesale. Paquin, Drecoll and Dou-
Get labels often add vigorously to the
sum OF American dollars charged for
an American gown.
Homemade hats, also, often contain |
such labels as Georgette, Talbot, Re. !
boux Marie Louise or Maison Lewis.
French millinery, ,dressmaking and
tailoring have become large, thriving
American industries, standing in lit
Tie need OF any other sort of protec-
ton than that OF an occasional French
label -
10 sum IL up, IL seems that the
greatest misfortune which can be in
nicted by the war upon our world OF |
"a shion will be the enforced recogni- |
ton that It is not SO foreign after ali. !
On the other hand, it will be a real /
priyation for the men of Europe to do |
without the fashions of New York