New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-21
o.WOMANy VARIED INTERESTS
TRANSITION OF SPRING STYLES
Those Popular Early Have Now Been Superseded BY Ones
of Later Introducton-lhe Apron iunic and
Parasol Gown in Favor.

new idea Is demonstrated In the re-
tention of the slashed skirt and the
adoption of fan pleats, or, in lieu OF
the latter, the diaphanous petticoat.
The one is to be regarded as a neces-
sity maintained through the dance
mania, and the other as a concession
to public tastes or criticisms. Due
also to the vogue Of the dance are
all manner of popular thin fabrics,
accordion pleated, and employed for
the entire gown in conjunction with
foundation of taffeta or satin.
Satin Overrules Taffeta.
Taffeta, by the way. may shortly be
replaced by satin. AS the former is
considered a bit too popular, crepe
charmeuse and crepe meteor are be-
ing taken up again as alternatives.
The latter are combined very effec-
lively with dark blue serge or gabar-
dine for the semi-tailored costume, or
with lowered voiles and handsome
Rodier cottons for the informal sum.
mer frock. They are liked best In
brown, and after that in dark blue.
Dark blue, by the way, is one OF the
most noteworthy color revivals OF the
present season. 1t is always popular,
because it is practical and, in meas
ure, youthful, but the favor bestowed
on it by smart Parisiennes and by
New York women who dress accord
ing to the best French standards, Is
far in excess of the ordinary patron
age which dark blue has maintained
season in and season out for several
years.
In hats, suits, wraps and dresses
the cerulean tone is in strong evil
dence, sometimes combined with
white.
The all-white costume for the sum-
mer cannot be referred to as a re-
vival any more than it can be called
novelty. 1t would be more nearly
the truth to speak of it as staple
thing perennially Endorsed by fashion.
In place of the linens and eponges
of last summer there are delightful
cotton weaves quite as costly as silks
and much more modish. Some of
them are striped in gay colors, others
are scattered with flowers embroid-
cred in natural tones.
Coatee Strikes Color Note.
The incorporation of color gives
the excuse for the wearing of the
brilliant satin or taffeta coatee bor~
dered with pinked ruffie or a quaint
putting of the silk. In no other gar
ments of the summer are the 1880
effects so attractively adapted as in
the three-piece costume of exquisite
cotton stuff with the loose. almost
shapeless coatee of saffron, grass
green, cherry or lime-colored silk.
For the woman who adores black
and-white combinations their revival
in summer hats will solve the prob
lem Of hat that is not too youthful,
too elaborate or too practical, yet
combining all three in a revival well
worth while.
Perhaps the black-and-white effects
appear to best advantage in capes,
which bid fair to become the most
worn of all the charming wraps.
Cheruit has advanced cape of white
broadcloth trimmed with black vel
vet, also a gown of white organdie
with a peasant bodice of black velvet.
So it is to be black-and-whit COM
binations with the note of novelty in
fused by the use Of velvet in degree
not heretofore associated with sum-
mer garments. If the color and
share are considered the principal
items, cloaks of velvet will net be un-
seasonable. Undoubtedly the success
OF the cotton velvets brought out by
Rodier has had much TO do with
the tolerance of velvet in summer.