Evening star., 1914-09-27

one for America TO develop
whatever talent she has for
designing clothes 1t is quite
true that the French designers had
their openings. and that they have put
out ar entirely new silhouette which
the rest of the world must follow or
be out of the fashion, but this deals
only with the present
The world knows now that both wide
coats and skirts are worn: that even
ing gowns have the unbroken line
from shoulder to hips, that understands
are narrow and have full festoons of
drapery at knees and hem; that shoul-
ders are exposed and arms are sleeve
less.
The expected 1880 decolletage was
not revived, but there is straight
line across the neck in both frocks and
coats that has put the N-shapeo open
ings out of style. Sleeves are long and
narrow. fitting the arm from elbow to
wrist like a long glove Skirts are five
and six inches eff the floor and the
hens are cut to q point back and front.
Such is the summing up of the fash
ion as it stands in the month. of Sep
tember: and this fashion was invented
and carried through by French design
crs during the first days of war
What viii the americans do about
IL IS the vital question.
To expect thera 10 design the worlds
clothes. or even their own. at a months
notice, is to expect the impossible
Many Americans talked as though it
we're possible and probable. and there
fore a most interesting problem was
presented. which caused endless specu-
IatiGr and gossip here
l. like hundreds of others. did not eX-
10 r0uTurierS able to
orearize their scattered forces and to
present models Tor American inspec-
tion after war was declared the first
week in August.
Af that moment the speculation as
10 American fashions ran along with
the talk of war as far as the Ainerl-
can buyers were concerned II may be
seemingly heartless and thoroughly
frivolous to parallel fashions with war,
but when one realizes that the former
involves the loss or making of millions
Of .loliars.the employment OF millions
of people all over the world, the happi-
ness or misery of an equal number:
then one can no longer term fashions
4 subject OF contempt
The Importance of War Fashions.
Zach man must look after his own
work in the world and carry it on with
judgement and resourcefulness in times
OF stress: and so it was TO small prob
lem that presented itself TO the -Ameri-
can buyer. He had come to Europe TO
represent his firm and get back to
america in the speediest possible time
with the last word upon fashions that
would govern his segment of the
American output.
This was his responsibility. He was
between the devil and the deep blue
sea If he missed Paris, and the dress
opening took place. then he would not
have done his full duty to the firm; if
he remained in Paris. or managed to
arrive here against all the odds, and
the openings did not occur, he might
not nave been able to get out again.
Judging from the mere handful of
buyers who were at the openings, they
were either unable to reach Paris, or
decided against coming here. The buy
erS who We're here, many of them rep
resenting firms who sell broadcast in
America, were enabled to reap the
benefit. They should reap harvest
in America, and well deserve it, for
they Sambled on a great chance
against a widespread panic, remained
at their posts, and saw a historic event;
Paris shaping the fashions of the world
as it marched to war.
Taking Home the Clothes.
II any American buyer has taken home
the best products of Cheruit Premet,
Cailot, Drecoli, Worth, to say nothing
OF some minor houses, there will be
enough models in America to settle
every detail of fashion until next
spring: but the most important obstacle
to any successful result like this was
In the fact that railroads have not ac-
cepted luggage except in small guam
Titles Even if a man had the money
TO buy, he could not take what he
bought.
Sketches were difficult to get-they
always are-and the best a buyer could
90 was 70 wait for better transporta-
tlca or take what clothes he could in
his hands. The majority did the latter
Now. was this enough to make a
strons impression on the American out
put OF autumn fashion? That must he
decided later in the season.
American Designed Styles.
In the meantime, there is the best
OF reasons why America should try her
hand at original work. She cannot hone
TO succeed offhand. There is too much
70 learn so far she has not produced
race of designers, or even those who
cared to depart from the style as laid
down in Paris, in whole or in mart but
she has hundreds of workers who are
stepped in the lore of the Paris;an ~
methods. and who have learned the
cesires and customs in dress of the
Americans. VI 'he
While it may not be necessarv for
them to design gowns at this momant
II Is more than proba BILE that there viii
NOT De any influx of new clothes ;ntn
-Aihei ich peiore next spring. unless the
war mas some quick and decisive termi
na,ion. Ihere will be workers to
put INTO shape whatever the desinper
creates hei
May Be No Output in Winter.
In country which calls out all it's
available men in time of war in addi
ioh TO ITS regular army, there is no
nope for regular and organized indus
try Mills must run, Overs, lacemakers
enioroiderers- and a host OF other peo-
PIE must be on hand to keep the wheels
gong to produce even one new gown
Ana these industries do not move
When the shops and dressma kers sell
IN al thnyr