The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-04-19

II seems only a few weeks
since the first model was
launched by Nine. Simone. and already
these highly picturesque garments are
advertised in the catalogues OF the big
magasins de nouveautes.
The cape mantle at its best In a very
smart AFFAIR indeed. But il is not every
womans wear. II requires to be car
r!ed," as the French say. with :, jaunty
air And a curious fact connected with
these flowing capes IL that they are
proving specially becoming to the dainty
young actress who very short time
ago looked charming in narrow ,slashed
skirts and boyish coates.
Last week I spoke in detail OF these
capee, but wish again to point out
that all the best models are extraordi-
narily wide at the hem and lined with
futurist silks OF a startling order. Some
Partisan society women are wearing q
model which Is cape and vest COM
blned.
This garment IL double breasted in
front and fashioned like a mans waist
coat. while at the back II Is long and
flowing. Another favorite model II
slung on the back by thick silk cords
and allowed to fall or the shoulders in
the fashion OF page rapes. Nearly all
the best models are much shorter in
front than at the back and those made
Of brocaded satin have deep hens OF
plain silk and Innings Of some strong
color which recalls a prominent shade
OF the brocade. For morning wear these
capes are made OF velours dc laine in a
thin texture or OF liberty cashmere.
A famous tailor In the Rue de In
Paix has Just introduced curious little
bolero coatee which is SO short that II
hardly reaches the waist line and so
straight and full that 1t would make
any but a slender woman look like a
small barrel. At the last Auteuil race
meeting saw one of these bolero
Coates IN rust red silk and wool bro
cade.
There was n Directoire wa,stcoat In
black and white striped taffeta which
had q basque reaching down on the
hips. The bolero had leg o. mutton
sleeves turned back with the striped
taffeta and the wais;coat opened over a
vest made OF fine white linen, which
boosted high Medicis collar. The
waistcoat buttons were in red enamel
and the skirt was Ia black charmeuse
and very cleverly draped. This idea Of
mounting short boleros over long waist
coats Is popular with one or two leading
Paris tailors. The effect Is peculiar, but
In some cases very satisfactory.
Premet is making q specially OF the
ultra long pleated tunic which reaches
to within FIVE or six inches OF the ex-
treme hem Of the skirt. These TUNES
are almost always worn over very mar
row draped skirts and they give pc
culiar impression OF trousers. They
are made plain or they are accordion
pleated: in the latter case the pleats are
generally confined by wide Egyptian
sash which is passed round the hips
and tied at one side. Nine. Cherult Is
Introducing these long TUNES on some
Of her more elaborate evenings gowns.
and they have pretty effect when
made OF transparent materials such as
embroidered gauze or printed chiffon.
The most important change Of the
season is that which has to do with the
outline and width OF skirts. Only two
important Partisan dressmakers are re-
naming faithful tn anything approach
ing the iupe en,ravec: these are Doucet
and Callot. But then Donce; has al
ways carefully avoided exaggeraton In
any line. Inc SklIAr W illlN tioust
are always graceful and becoming. even
when they are eXaggera,edly narrow
a. the hem.
Callot on the other hand Is notably
daring. AZ the beginning OF each sea-
son the foreign buyers await the Cabot
novelties with undisguised anxiety. they
: are afraid to make large purchases else
where until they know exactly what
~ -
same time this house is making great
mary Of the long tunes which give
redingo,e appearance to walking
dress
For ordinary tailored suits pleatcd
skirts are almost ubiquitous. The
pleats are, as rule. fashioned like
those IN a Scotch kilt, the accordion
style being left for afternoon and eve
ming gowns.
Glancng casually at the evening dress
models now shown In the best ateliers
gather the impression that three dis
unct styles are In favor: Dainty robes,
such as the Princess de Lamballe. Marie
Antoincttc's close friend. might have
worn; quaint frillcd and ruchcd frocks,
Which recall poor Mimi in ia Vie de
boheme,' frocks which more than sug-
sest the presence OF hoped petticoats.
and then the classic draperies which
may almost be called Pallas Athene.
Roughly speaking, two distinct styles
VIII prevail this season, the fussy,
TITLED and ruched gown and Greek
rooe' There will be many others, OF
course, but these two strongly marked
styles Will be largely seen at important
enterta'nments-at the Opera. the Rus
san ballet, &C.. as well as at private
olnn'rs and receptions.
FOR Young girls Paquln Is making
EXQUISITE little Louis XIV. gowns In
Nte'a' such shades as fcuille de rose,
"oeuule and vert amand being in great
request. These frocks have panncrs
caught up by bouquets OF forget-me-
hots o' branches OF rambler roses. and
spec lally chic Jcune file would prob
ao'y wear white perruque with such IA
costume. This idea OF white perruques
10Y Young Gins has caught on In some OF
we NOR" exclusive Partisan circles Nile
''urh" has several times appeared In
"hite wig In conjunction with a
LOUIS Nv evening gown and several
sis O. the came set have followed
her example.
Where evening gowns are concerned