Evening star., 1914-12-27

short to show this graceful arrange
ment
put on the hips is in the form OF
drapery. 1t must be fiat and not pro-
jecting. Cheruit's idea of using
simulated pocket, crescent shaped,
cred arrow heads at each end. is one
| of the accepted methods of dividin@
the fitted part from the fun part OF
the skirt.
F1uted Pleating at Hips.
The fu0i pleating which Gallo.
introduced at the hips probably is the
only accepted method of projecting the
| material beyond the hip line or the dat
surface of the yoke. She introduced
| o gown in August with a full skirt OF
| soft, black silk. cross barred with
black velvet bands, which had it's side
! fullness arranged to fiat yoke BY
| means of duted pleats that stood
| straight out from the figure instead OF
| being pressed down.
| This idea was not enthusiastically re-
| ceived In America in the beginning
| of the autumn, but since the full skirt
has been adopted and the dressmak
ers have seen the growing popularity
| of the ornamental hip line 1t has been
| taken up with a measure of success
| when the materials are soft and the
| figure of the wearer Is slight.
| Everywhere there Is a decided ten
dency to keep the front and the back
of coats and skirts fiat. and this is
| not easy to do. The ultra skirts have
as much fullness in front as at the
sides, but the women who have to
| wear these skirts recognize the diff
Guilty of this line. and they will come
into better idea of having this fullness
| smoothed out.
So far there is not much enthusiasm
| for the skirt that Is cut to a point
in the middle of the front and the
| back. although IT is the most skillful
way to manipulate a six-yard hem.
No one cares how short these full
| skirts are or every one realize that
they are impossible when long, and
| that the fashionable boot which reach
| eS high above the ankles gives one a
thoroughly decent appearance. even In
! the shortest skirt.
| The coats that have as much full
| ness in front as il back, below the
| waist line, are as difficult to wear as
| the skirts with the same defect. The
| idea is fashionable, and as ii is eX-
pressed in the new short coat it comes
dangerously near that silhouette with
which we are familiar in all pictures
of orr immediate ancestors. 1t looks
as though the small waist, the high
bust and the large hips were aimed at.
| As the Fashionable Woman Looks.
! The change in silhouette is really
astounding. 1t was talked about, 1t
| was prophesied. it was known that
| Paris had produced it, and yet, never
| theless, 1t came upon the most astute
observer in the form of a surprise.
| On the street the fashionable woman
wears full short skirt. a short jacket
| without any opening at the neck, end
! ing in high tight stock of fur with
| tiny armholes and long small sleeves
that are finished with deep tight cuffs
| of fur. On her head is a hat with
small brim, tilted up at the hack, two
| streamers floating downward to the
4, neck line. In her hand she carries
| small barrel muff gathered at the ends.
| In the afternoon. indoors at SO
| cial function such as a luncheon, card
party. matinee, musical. her skirt is
swirling far away from her shoetops.
her bodice is tight fitted. long-waisted.
and has seams in the back, its arm
holes are piped, 1t buttons in straight
bust line. and is finished with a high
stock of satin that is also buttoned up
the front.
On her head is small turban of
| biscuit colored velvet run through with
a spike of jet and edged with band
| of fur.
In the evening she may look as she
did last winter in slimly cut pallet
| cut out of the moyen ago line. but IL
she Is quite modern she will wear a
| full skirt of brocaded satin. edged with
six inches Of fur or finished off with a
thick silver cord. The bodice will fit
the figure and be pulled up to points
| on the shoulders, where 1t is finished
with a bow of colored tulle. There
will be no sleeves, but possibly a.
bracelet of seed pearls or colored
crystals around the upper part of the
arm to hold up the bodice material
under the arms.
| The hair will be fiattened to the head,
possibly In water waves on the brow.
but usually showing short silky
fringe; the ears will be exposed, and
H. lr
ranged high on the very top of the
head. -
/ Doesn't this picture convey to your
mind the extreme change In fashioYfs.
in whole and in part. between now and
last September? -; =.