davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona sentinel and Yuma weekly examiner., 1914-04-16
BREAKING UP THE FEUDAL RE-
 GIME IN MEXICO

There has never been a republic in Mexico, but merely a modernized form of feudalism. Landholding has been consolidated in vast tracts, the great hidalgos not paying taxes on their land and the whole area of the country belonging for the most part to a very small number of owners. With govern mental acquiescence and participation, the other opportunities for wealth. mining, banking, transportation, oil fields,-have all helped to maintain a wealthy ruling class. It was contri- buttons from these sources of wealth to the DiaZ regime that made possible the maintenance of an elert army that kept the country in subjection ana pre- 5ented to the outer world a picture of peace and financial prosperity, even if not of special progress. But the mod ern spirit is making it way every where in the world, and must be reck- oned with even in Mexico. The world has lived rapidly in the past fifty years and some methods that were both pos Sible and excusable in the Mexico that immediately followed the failure of the MaXimilian adventure are no long CT to be relied upon. Military absolu- tism, tempered by assassination, can not henceforth be conducted by us,- certainly not in the regions lying be- tween the Rio Grande and the Panama Canal. Readjustment must be a pain full process at best, but it is inevit- able. The struggle is like the break up of ice in the spring.-From "The Progress of the World" in the Ameri- can Review of Reviews for April.
Arizona sentinel and Yuma weekly examiner., 1914-04-16
A BUSINESS MAN OF MINNEAPOLIS

Minneapolis is a city where they do things. Stimulated by vigorous climate, surrounded by fertile country, peopled by the best blood of the over crowded east, it is a city of hustle, of great achievements conceived and wrought out.
 MT. Taylor, of Minneapolis, Minn.. is one of this sort of men. A news paper man. A political worker. An Englishman by birth. He has been in this country nineteen years. He has resided in the northwest, Win nipeg, Fargo, and for the last ten years in Minneapolis.
 MT. Taylor is a friend of Peruna and does not conceal his friendship. He is thoroughly enthused with the belief that Peruna is great remedy. He has a right to feel so. For several years he suffered with dyspepsia This caused him to have very bad health.
 Newspaper advertisements would Peruna. It was friends that per suaded him to try the remedy. In- less than week he needed no more persuasion. He saw that Peruna was doing him good He is able to say in a letter to the Peruna Com-s pany, Columbus, Ohio:
 Never felt better in my life. I am ng to all men or women who suffer l consider Peruna O great remedy.
Arizona sentinel and Yuma weekly examiner., 1914-04-16
Beware of Ointments for Catarrh That Contain Mercury

as mercury will surely destroy the sense of smell and completely derange the whole system when entering it through the mucous surfaces. Such articles should from reputable physicians, as the damage they will do is ten fold to the good you can possibly derive from them. Halls Catarrh Cure. manufactured by F. J. Cheney & Co.,. Toledo, O., contains no mercury, and is taken internally, acting directly upon the blood and mucous sur faces of the sytsem. In buying Halls Catarrh Cure be sure you get the genu- inc It is taken internally and made in Toledo, Ohio. by F. J. Cheney & Go. Tes- timonials free
 Sold by Druggists. Price 75c per bottle
 Take Halls Family Pills for constipation.
Arizona sentinel and Yuma weekly examiner., 1914-04-16
MEXICO NEEDS A "REcEIvERY

The solutio that would be best for all interests in Mexico would be that of a voluntary receivership" for a fixed period of from ten years to twenty years. Thirty years, of course,
Arizona sentinel and Yuma weekly examiner., 1914-04-16

Seeing that President Wilson was ignorant of the authorship of the pro- posed P. O. inscriptions, we may as- sume that Doc Elliot got off easy.
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21
et@eres 3st@ea.

unfere g~ortitrsfrda tn - 70 e.
3Gblt Elm gerltner -duBcror0entli9
begitrig. ndbsrtS tter unitt neues
@egenHber su erfdbren. Der Mtss
ger, Ser Bidder uno IGmtItdt Nus
ldufer, Die ii4 3sigsH. fperoen duses
bdlten uno Dbsr lire GlFdbrangen
mil Oen rleutn 9uusbefpo6Htrn be-
frdgt. 0d bic gleuigteiten nur fpdr'
lid ftieBen uno nod nt6t ste 6dffte
BON rem feitgeft.llt lit, mas etus rids
tige portiersfrnu bon ben Gtrabens
bepobneru piRen mug, 10 tpiro enc.
Ii9 dtt9 Ser &ebriftbduer befragt.
Mds oenn bas fit nete 2eute Ieisn,
Die auf Drummer Is, ldutet Die
Grdge. Ddrduf Der aebri9ts
fdbrer:
pas Iin6 feline 2eutt - 30 mfg
ten Se mai ben lcgdutena e1s
rt3t ieben!"
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21

Selb ff9dBung. Gin
5srr fdIlt Bel elmer Gpdaierfdbrt auf
benz Meers iiber 8orb unb tpirb bon
etnem Matrofen nit eigener 2ebsnss
eefd1r aus benz 8diitr ge3pgtrt. Als
Der Gsrettets tpieber gum 8etpubtisin
9etomnen III, ret4t er BEN Rdtrcisa
- einen Dollar.
.I1s, rur eirsn DoIlar!@ ruff Otts
fee tnttdnf9t.
s.a9, gfb Did bod 3ufrieben1s,
meint fem aoIlese, apber Ssrr pirb
am bsIisn fDifIen, mas sr inert ial4'
steffeno. gdttr: eieb' nal,
mein Gobn, ME gsfdlIt Dit oies
Eu9 at msinem nsusn Rods
5pbn (0ie linte Site 0es gudek
betru9tsnO): Gsbr iaGH. Iiebtt gd'
ter!
8dter: Drummer Sunge, Oh IiebIt
Dir Ia Ole Iinte Ssite AM
Gpbn: Ru ia, Batter = i6 triss'n
Rod ia bod trit, tpsun CT s'tpsuOi
iRI
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21

gingttroffen. ~Bie
sebf's Oeun Sbrsm 4amerdbtn ap'
pet9"
Der TT bOrseftrn in ben aIptu
dbgeiturat."
81 batte aIIo Sreunb aItn9er
bod re4t; btr idgte neuIid I9on:
Wit benz 9e6f's bergab."
- De bsfiertsr ausorud.
- Dsnte Dir, Der 2eutnant 4 ioa
ii9, ieiner S6uIotn ipegen, NIT Ell
ner bdbliden, dber rei6tn alten
beimli9 perlobt bdben.
- Ro, bos nenrie i9 i4on mebr
un1eimli4 perlcbt.
- 5 m Otter. - u. (tm Dirtss
trtldrt, DIR be gtlner In BET aus1
fttIlung su tttlGren - Bel ieinef
3~erifreutbeit trtEdrt Ct Dtt pitl'
lei6t aa4 feline 2iebe."
Der gantofftlHsIb b.
ReIlHer: .JsbIt bier Bier, neiHs
6errl9afteH2"
gbemnHn (bn sben dusgetranten
Bat, al feinsr Brar): n6eblt bier
8ier, Iisbe Grdn5istda@
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21

tano man .siniae baEmlOle QlaeH puI
Ter tfitgt mar bclduF NIT Bet nus
tnnuns IsInet Jadi unc fchpstH
Borbsrdlnnatn flu itInt uno itlntr
.1amiIis WsItteilt btl9ditiot, nno
.6arrp belt T6 bisItsi BON GrOsusnor
.6quars fern. Ditt1tbR 9dse IpSist
TeatIts itiu Oniel FAINT Riub ano aes
.Qet ndm WsftiRbKH ab.
Damn ndbm unitr paiaoin sinigs
GinIabungsn sur Sdso an, uber CT
.I1rleb mtnoeitens stpeimol toOAtni.
lid on alits Gooplpbin, bic feline
9rl.Ie ftis p~oftpsnbsno beontpcrtets.
.Ditfe griefe bditt ltotrmdnn Ieisn
tDnnsn, fot9s MuItst Der WoblaH'
fdnSiattit tudrsn fs. Die Biatttt
ron aliet tparsu Oas eemeinIums
inert bon WIutt,r unb 9o6itr, elm
peri Der aitbs uno bee Gbrsetjss,
nit SiIfs etnts WSrtsrbu4ts uro
ansnoli6er SOrsidlt miibfam poll
eradt.
Glnioe Doden Ipdt.r, uHmitttlbdr
Dor Der abrtiIe Sdttps ndtl gutrcl
Aires, fam in 2oubou elm aabtlttles
atomm an, ods cine furHtbdrt RAD
ri9f mtbitIt: Mdbrtno zines bsiit'
aen Giutnss In Der Rdbe osr 8ltts
hen Qnitasn mar .Osr .e4lbatros"', OUT
TEN Ii9 aOrD Gambsr uub feline Gas
mile bsidnoen, nit Damn uHo Idus
unistsegoratt.
Weirdn6ds Snninit bate nt4t gs'
.loqen. 5arrp fpuros 2oro Gamblers
Hanfoloer In allen WTirotn uno In
Talordi, uno Sic Diplomatic Osrlor
sinen trtuen, iptfln aud feintH bets
rorrddtnSeH Biener. Gum sriitnmaI
I'M 2eben fano Ii6 5arrp in Der Gage,
ieinsn anoeren 8iasn ooer DunI4
teradf9tigen Su mHFsH aIS isiHsn
tigensn; osmeemdB entfultete CT
talO cine 3iigellOfgte!t, Die sr pom
LINEN Batter, Dem bldrdugisen Drds
aonsrleutnont gttrbt bate, uno
5let63eitig cine RitttrIi6teit; Oi. bon
ir6er Elm b%eIonOertr 9OrSug Don ibm
mar.
als alice itm tintn Brief idrttb,
in Dem acknowledgements uno Bee
gliidnunTdung etntn unF6sreu
aanpt mitsinanOer iibrteu, fasts lie
Elm goftItrtptum binJu: Sect ptrOs
II bid ndtiirli6 nie tpteoer gu ie4en
triesen!"
0isiss gofitriptum mar fdIt un'
itferli9, Bonn ID mar NIT 3iiternoet
6cno geI9riebsn, uno Carp tohnt,
Sertli6 S%rdntnIpurtn odrahF emf
oeden. Dir fnO es qliee iauI0id,
Ter 8obrbeit gsmdB gu toHtdtisrsn,
odB iie osn Brief iiberf9reibsn ipolts,
1ber Der ruetle Rat ibrer Wuttsr trua
ben Sisg 6apon.
Dref Do6en ipGter lttB Ii6
5enrb George 4usufus 8istount
Gambler nit qlits, Der dItshsn TOa.
ter Ots 2ttbert GnsIling, aaala
GarSsns, Chaplain, in a1er GsiGs
irouer.
Die 6eirdt mdfte SsnIdtion. Gie
CAB 3u Osnisn. DIP 4Iies GoooIpbin
mar Die lieb3s6nte jungs Dame, bic
lire aauftdbn i'm gorietet6e1ter be-
donnsn uHo fd BON 0prt tn Den
EeidsdbtI smporseiHpungen tdtte.
Jn oer Do4e odrduf srbielt Sic 9t'
rettion bsr n50qs" msbr ats tduienc
0sIu9e Don MdOden aus alien Gtdn,
ZEN, Bic plSgIta BON Dem inni8en
8unide 6eieelt lodrer, ii4 uIs gbo'
yiIttnnen dus5ubiIben. Sn 1bedters
'reiIen abtr paroe 0ds 4rtom oufs
esftellt: es perlobnt Ii9, tugsnSbaft
90 fem.
(sortiebund folat.)
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21

Die 6 ten bdben fir Geoi6t
unb Geidng Hut ein Bort, IouImd.
Der g 9dfbod vMOmitoI" In
9asmdnien e%r3islte eineH prsts bon
$500.
9en fGngFtn GGrit beim
aepobnliden Mdrf1 bat oit enelts
i6e Snfdnterie nit "a 3entimstsrf.
1869 matt Der Metnd bsindbt
cine Mtliaroe &ubitmeter 2opd aus.
Su Der Bruptn3 poisn etbt
ss leioer nod S@uBgelo far "A
Mil0urten.
Die GItefe ltniperiitGt Der
DsIt lit elsabar, bic mobammebds
.nii4e in GairO,
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21

MbHiffe. Bauer: Scr 6uI,
seriepp III 6iefegto9t in bstrunfenem
3uaonoe III Sos WdFsrlo9 btHsiHgss
rdttr, bds gesen ale gori6rtft niat
ein6t3durt TIL, nno bsindbe odrin ets
trunttu. >. 6offentIid tpttB Ole Sc.
msiuoe unnmsbr, mas fe 3u tim
Bat"
Ypliatit: .SreiIi6l Ser 1tunten'
|bolo tOmmt duf bic GduFerlif' Dab
|sr nirgtnbmo iueAr mas slngsfaenit
Itrisut!4
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21
1tnisrs
Sdniimnitr -Wftrt
SsOes Mmiter 15e
E~iraathiltiD dns biBtisftti Si0ff. \,
ylu. 1887.

NIIuNtHIFEIU Wv 8IvFltIItI ~IVTIs
Nu. 1887,
Di, 3nIammtnntluaa bon 5iptittIh
6ipfith pit a. htutbuiugt mbbs NJ, b.
in als ,blnIo SlonsRiid ntt ptidnads
bpn tfpi,ftn. Wldndta bN,iis ab dcid
ssttalt a~ltiDunashiid, ROr, Jdddtn,
brett. glttd it,, N bdbutt iUltotr N
Bebraud sdltli pprbtn unb ftisrt NIT
sihem pdHtnbtn gradnBlbtil nsut 1riAm'
pfc. Sine Termination bon elmer tins
laden GstgtIddt ihb tintm glcd aus
fiautitltm BoldtldB N In bititt Jnus
ftdiloh bstdhIdduilHt. TdE BlouIsnlddtt
III init lbttltdsnetm 8otottibtil etdl'
bsti.i. BEN An5pis unb Elm isthts 4Srs
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21

Sn Dem TeBttn Sa6rg
Eno sfne aeibe isIdnDiI9er Di4ttt
NIT grfplg an oie 9sffentIidteit gss
trtttn un6 baden 70 SsIdnos alien
gDsttnrubm dufs rette gum GrpaGtrs
Esbra6t. Der beOentsnbfte urtet
,Juud ISLANDS Drdmatitern cser IN
@ubmanor Rdmbdr, Ser bisIdtg 70
sut tpte nnbetdnnt, iebt plObIi@
Gur9 isin Ioeben etldicnenes Drama
,5dood gdbop" in duer Munoe if+
Gs 3dblt bier Mtte un0 fpielt cuff iss
!Sn6iIdem 8pben. 8as tgf. 5bedtsr
Gppenbdgen bat bds Drama tereitx
sur g.touffHbrun9 a~nsenouturet
TaÌˆgliche Omaha tribuÌˆne. [volume] (Omaha, Nebr.) 1912-1926, 1914-05-21

0rei ober bier Wlordte irdren obne
Elm 6emertenstpstteS @reigHiS OerfloIs
fen. SD oa6te tdtn nod an unfer
abenteusr uno t1 bate ooriber geS
la6t, fpenn ni6t oer @ebdnfe an
5biatoFf sic grinnerung Satan ges
triibt battle.
gtnes Td6mtttdgs ttdf i9 poIes
iaieff i'm alub uno er 5sigte Elm 10
auffdnenoes, su9lei9 gtidltfes uno
bod gebridtts Wefen. odB ta mtt
ni4t ent6alten tonnts, gu ibm gu fd'
gen:
Run, aumerao, fpobI pitosr eins
nal p%erIiebt22"
DEM man muB pifeH, OdB goks
jdisffs 9et5 ii4 bdufis Setm erften
Bid entsiinoese.
,Sm @egenteil," dntportsts er mir.
.es III ales in Oronung, He bat mis-
fir 9etits abtnS Elm Renoe3oous 6ts
piIist.@
sic mar Die iungs Vtdu einss
fs6r alien, tiftrid9iigsn JHfanferies
tegimsniss9 ommanOeurs
~ NH
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

not be approved and finally and judically settled and allowed and the prayer of said petition be granted:
 IN WITNESS WHEREOF I have hereunto set my hand and official seal at Wrangell in the Territory of Alaska, District and Precinct aforesaid, this the 24th day of January, 1914.
 VIM. c. THOMAS, United States Commissioner and
 Ex-Othcio Probate Judge in
 and for the Wrangell Precinct. First Publication, Ian. 29. 1913
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19
Notice Of
 Water Rent

On account of the large propor- ton of water rents that are contin- uallv becoming past due, and on account of the extra expense and inconvenience the collection of thes 6 accounts ,rtail, fttije s by given that the water rents are payable in advance on the first day of each month, at the office of the Town Treasurer.
 The Cooperation of all parties asing city water is respectfully re- questei.
 F. MATHFiSON,
 Treasurer. Town of Wrangell, January P, 1914.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19
pumice Stone.

Punice is an acid volcanic rock, which may be in either massive or finely coIntsinuted form. It owes it's peculiar porous, vesicuiar or pumiceous condition 10 the rapid expansion of in- cluded moisture or gases, due 10 sud dep release of pressure at the time of its ejection from tho volcano. This expansion may be canied to such ab extent tbat the rock is completely shattered, and the resultant finely powdered material may be carried to unknown distances Ly wind snd air currents aa6 then deposited in beds several feet thick.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19
The Superfooi.

We know the man who cannot swim stroke, but loves to float Upon the summer sea and thinks It smart to rock the boat, Though over his untimeiy grave, Beneath the pillows cool. We drop the tribute of a tear.
 We class him as a fool But now that We have learned at last The trick of how to fly And soar above the fleecy clouds And navigate the sky. When far below us spreads the sweep Of valley. hi!l and plain, What saaii We call the passenger Who rocks the aeroplane?
 -Mnna Irving in New York Sun
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19
h The Probate Court for the Territory of Alaska, Division No. One, Wraneell
 Commissioners Precinct.

Before Han. Wm. c. Thomas. United States Commissioner and
 Ex- Officio Probate Judge in and for the Wrangell Commissioners Precinct.
 Citation For Hearing On Final Account And Petition For Final Settlement
 And Distribution.
 In The Matter Of the Copart- nership Estate of THOMAS A. WILSON, Deceased, and RUFUS SYLVESTER. Deceased
 To Mary A. Wilson, Widow and Administrator of the individ- ual estate, of Thomas A. Wilson, Deceased: Leo C. Patenaude, Administrator of the individual estate of Rufus Sylvester, De- ceased, Rose Rufus sylvester widow, May Sylvester Gartley, Mildred Sylvester and George Rufus Sylvester, adult children and heirs of. and Ann and Elsie Sylvester, minor child ren and heirs of Rufus Sylvester. deceased, and Hiram D. Camp bell as guardian of the minor heirs of the said Rufus Sylves- ter, deceased, and all other per sons interested in the said CO., partnership estate of Wilson X Sylvester, as creditors and otherwise: GREETING:-
 YOU AND EACH OF YOU are hereby notified that Mary A.
 Wilson and Thomas C. McHugh
 as Administrators of the above
 entitled estate have this day rendered, presented for settle ment and filed in this Court their
 Final Report and Account of their administration of said estate and that they have filed herein their petition for the final and judicial
 settlement and allowance of this
 and all other accounts filed by thsm and for the approval and allowance of all of their acts and proceedings as Administra- tors and for the allowance of their acts in the proceedings of such Administrators and
 for the allowance of the expenses and for the author ity to make distribution of the residue of said estate to such persons or estates as shall be en-
 titled thereto and that the Court
 has appointed 2 o'clock. P. N. of Monday the 30th day ot March, 1911, and the court room of the United States Commissioner and EX- X-0ficio Probate Judge at Nrangell, Alaska, as the time and place for the hearing upon said Final Account and said petition; and
 YOU AND EACH OF YOU ARE HEREBY CITED AND REQUIRED PERSONALLY to
 be and appear before the Pro- bate Court for the Wrangell | Commissioners Precinct at the
 last above mentioned time and place then and there to attend said hearing upon said Final Re- port and Accounts and upon said l petition and then and there TO
 SHOW CAUSE if any you have,
 why the said Final Report and Account and all the accounts ot the said Administration should
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

l, ( Bjorge and family were moved over nom Petersburg last Tuesday by Kenig Johannsen on the Karen Mir. Bjorge is a brother oi lack B1orge of the Columbia ani Northe,n Cold Storage.
 Joe Earonovich, wife and child. came over on the Prosper from Karlieen the first of the week. Joe returned Hednesday leaving Mrs. Baronoyich and son to proceed south iaza visit to her old home.
 Jack Forge, manager of the Coium' . and Northern Cold Stor- age had the misfortune to step on a large nal at the cold storage plant lazi Monday which penetrat- ed int als left foot and laid him up fer 6 couple of days,
 Nasaaggon's birthday will be celebrated tt St. Philips Church Sunday exercises Feb. 22. The eff ort 3t sdt address will be to re- produee be life and times of Wa :aiaetsa in a way beyond what scnoa. 8ssories can possibly give. All arg cordially invited,
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19
LOCAL BRIEFS

Drop in at the Home Bakery tor your night lunch, Miss Mary Mantle is acting ss recorder at the Court House,
 Expert shoe repair. All work guaranteed at the Wrangell Shoe Shop.
 Chief of police Martin of Juneau says there are sooidle men in Jun eau. Good Hot Coffee, like mother ase4 to make, at the Home Bake ",
 Regal Gas Engines absolutely re- liable, +-cycle machines. Chas. Benjamin, Agent
 Billy Hood returned on the All;i from Seattle, Where did you get that Hat.
 Joe Ensley and daughter return cd on the Alki from an extended trip to Oregon.
 H. J. Palmer, Rotary Public, Le- gal papers drawn. Office at St. Michael Trading Co.
 Fourteen million poands of hal ihat is the estimated catch n south eastern Alaska for the year 1913.
 The Cable oaiea is now in their naw quarters ua3s7 the same rool a5 the wireless station on the hill. r. s. Stewart, w. D. Lewis, C. Mclean, E. E. Noble and Mar tih Adelia were Wrangell passen gers on the Aiki.
 We have iast received q new line of the lagest kid shoes. And are selling them cheap. Come in and take a look wether you want shoes Or not. .-Wrangell Shoe Saop.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

Good Hot Coffee, like mother ased to make, at the Home Bake ry,
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

Drop in at the Home Bakery tor your night lunch.
 Miss Mary Mantle is acting ss recorder at the Court House,
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

Expert shoe repair, All work guaranteed at the Wrangell Shoe Shop.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

Chief of police Martin of Juneau says there are soc idle men ir Jun -au.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

Regal Gas Engines absolutely re- liable, 4-cycle machines. Chas. Benjamin, Agent.
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

Billy Hood returned on the All;i rom Seattle. Where did you get that Hat
The Wrangell sentinel., 1914-02-19

Joe Ensley and daughter return ed on the Alki from an extended trip to Oregon.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-08-11

which plays a leading role among
autumn novelties. is used in black
for debutsnte's visiting and church
costume. But the sombre tone is
modified by the cheerful tones
blended in the plaid silk combined
with IT,
This silk appears in an underskirt,
narrow and with perfectly matched
cores, two-thirds covered by a
yleated tunic in sole ondoyant, having
fronts button Joined as far down as
the hips. At the waist the pleats
vanish under a silk vestee-basque,
with crossed fronts running to short
points on the hips and low
dropped shoulders close-htted over
the tops OF narrow black sole ondo-
yant sleeves, with turned-back white
silk cuffs.
A New Type of Collar.
A white silk collar, high at the
back and tapering to the finest OF
points at the bust, is outlined by a
wide band Of the black silk which,
crossing on the front of the basque
and running into its side seams,
Stimulates a bolero. This collar is
not akin TO the overworked faring
Medici and the so-called Norman.
1t is simply wide affair, high stand
inc at the back of the neck, turned
over into sharp little points behind
the ears and tapered in front to pre-
vent contact with the chin. It's shape
is as new as sole ondoyant is novel
among fabrics.
Many outstanding collars to wear
with tailored costumes will be fash
tened in figure silk or velvet, and
will take the place of fur. A good
example of it is shown in the photo
graph of a suit of blue silk and wool
mohair. The narrow skirt has a
long pleated tunic. The cutaway
coat has a swallow tail back, and is
trimmed with small self-covered but
tons and larger size bone buttons.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-08-11
COSTUMING THE DEBUTANTE-ELECT
She viii Have Fo Which She Takes Sh
BE Both Simple and Smar-Among the Materials Used Her
Clothes Will Be Ondoyant New

imported, but its weave is inferior
and its color range less exclusive.
A fetching little shape in hats
looks as though il had been specially
designed to go with the marine CAB
ardine morning frock. 1t is white
felt of softest texture, with a long
oval crown banded with fine. flexible
black leather, against which rolls a
narrow brim. slightly depressed at
front and rear. 1t somewhat sug-
gests an English walking hat, but
lacks the severe and elderly" look
of that model. The new simple
shape is as practical for the debu-
tsnte's morning use as for the al
most grown-up school girls general
service.
Debutante May Wear Black Satin.
Black satin is not denied to the
oebutante-elect providing that she
refrains from using too much of it.
She does not wear an entire gown Of
that material, but she orders a cos
tune extensively gsrnished with it.
Perhaps the most charming ex-
ample of this is shown here in the
Afternoon frock of black satin, COM
bined with white satin foundation,
yelled in a double houncing of black
lace. The semi-fitting basque of
black satin is finished with a ruche
OF black shadow lace. A rose of
deep red nestles on the left shoulder.
Cheviot is so fashionable this
autumn that it should justly be re-
garded as a new material, and it is
novel in that never before has it been
so fine and altogether alluring. Were
il not almost as flexible as is a sheer
fabric, it could not have been used
for the development of the model
whose skirt is tered with three
flounces bordered with broad black
satin bands.
Sole Ondoysnt Is New Fabric.
A coquettish jacket in the cheviot
has a loose back, with cord and tas-
sel-laced seams, ending just below
the waist; short fronts bloused I'M
der a black satin girdle and sleeve
caps laced at the tops of black satin
bishop sleeves. The debutante's
school girl sister need not think that
she can wear this costume. 1t is a
degree to mature for her, and she
may as we'll console herself with the
reflection that by the time she is
ready to come out" something even
more desirable will have been
launched.
Sole ondoyant, another new fabric