The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-09-27
ny cLAuDE cHERYs.
GRffssl wave II sanity has passed

ths isGtXground The French--likc the
Il, 2.ss;1 ss.d the Russ.ans--are very
wct. aware if.ss the present state OF al
fairs Is .sf-stiy grave. but every one has
dete-usiuet 70 do what he or she can
II * er i:,,ngs going"
As / PAINTED out In my last article.
this is or vital Importance. At the OUT
~ one felt inclined to sacrifice every
thing to the brave fellows who have
marched cut, perhaps never to return
but there are others. At home, sur
rounding u.s. there is q vast army OF
humble workers who must surely starve
II their usual employment Is taken from
them, and 1t Ii our duty, to see that
these unonending people are not
Wronged.
At the first moment 1t was difficult to
realize all this. Now. however. the
blessed wave OF sanity has come. We
arc looking facts right In the face and
IRE trying 10 make the best Of them.
Wild rumors were afoat ten days ago
with regard to the great dressmakers
aid taiIors OF the Rue de Ia Paix. People
aid that this "maison' or that "maison''
had closed it's doors, just as was
rumored that Paris was like desert
A i matter Of fact Paris IL almost ex-
actly as il always Ia In the month on
August; there is very little diherence'
The cafes and restaurants close Garner
than usual: there are not now so many
tourists on the bouievards, that Is all.
August and September have always
been dead months. so far as social al
fairs are concerned in Paris.
But the famous dressmakers OF the
Rue de- In Paix have not closed their
doors. And they do nos intend to do
-. have Just had letter from Worth
In which he said that while certain OF
M. workgirls were engaged on Red
Croas peedlewora. others were as usual
ureuaring the autumn and winter
models. ord ra arr flowing. In fact Il
b IL did not Know That terrible war
was devastating Europe one would not
fcai1e. the faes.in Paris. -. 80.
CaIlct Sssmrs are creating novelties
for the coming winter So are Nine.
Char4l,. I,rern (. Lewis and many 9TH
erx. Next week ! hope TO give
detailed aste m. .of the novelties which
Jean wss.h Is preparing Tor the winter.
Meanwhile s.saH cn1.innA TO speak OF
the aGyarra fashsors which were Gre
atesi for ,ier mart ssaside resorts just
Before tbs - '3~E&g out.
TIRE M ~ cay ame which / have
skesN nd tn weak vas created by Rcd
fern for the reasyille races. those
famous RAGS whlea had 20 be ADAM
aoned bers-:S, tc-a the laen and The
horses which wore - have taken part
In them have ieea sent 20 the front,
! basf ..ae-s pha 1 ~. 4 rslHta OK that
the rawrs and tss.sssrei saItg greeted for
the Dcauvi, s<aso;s are aassessed of
special importance necsN-e ~ 3 in32-
cate very clearly tire entire If the
fashion. Of ta-morrbw. For abs fsss1n
dress ~sSperts fraa-e point ~ YssI ing
TrouviilA-D srvil'n IN thu r9sata Of
August ana tlsess rn .6ewn to G;sertit.
ana san setasssaa r3r September.
ia iign,' II cf she a,rrost import.
anee. u usnY matters very Ett'e
wss.i'sr rso1s. ca tam Is composed
r. ssns1 - reeve or or velTes: what
3ua~ r-a:lcr s whether the outline is
,ss1s q. yes So - ~ II tomorrow. Md
III N an sr*s ssf,'> TAFT that the outline
ef he gcw-ls and salts created for the
ultra sma-s rarisenaes who so To
Tfogyii'e- Dsauviile Is always the out
line Of tomorrow.
The costume / have xketched was
created Cor very well known Pari-
sienne who in at Biarritz at this moment
The long coat. which dipped slightly at
the back. was made Of DUH blue canvas
cloth ana he beautiful braidings were
carried cut In black and dark blue
snu.ache. The coat moulded the figure
without being tight and i; was cut
with the intention Of giving length TO
the waist line.
This IL one OF the new ideas: A long
waist line which has the effect Of max
ing the figure look slender and particu-
tariy graceful. The waistcoat Indicated
b my sketch was made OF black glove
hid and the large buttons were in blue
enamel trimmed With Jet. The skirt was
~ In nnc knife pieats from waist 10
hem. and though there was quantity
~ material In I, it fell In straight folds
right down to the feet.
Coats OF the order shown In this
sketch win be very popular all through
the winter It Is early to speak Of fur
wraps. but l have already seen coats Of
this kind made Of black breitschwAnx
ard also q astrakhan, with picturesque
wAistcoat o. ermine. the later being nm
hAed With cut Jet buttons.
All OF these long coats OF the Louis
Nv. order have comfortable sleeves cut
like those on mans overcoat. These
s1eeves are A. q rule finished with deep
CUTS and the buttons ara always an
inaportant item. For velvet coats In
tknded FOR afternoon wear antique but
tsns In enamel and paste are very
populAr.
Yon win note that very fiimy blouse
shows itself where the coat opens In
fhout The frilled collar Of this blouse
nils over the coat and soft ffills tall
s3jkhfly OVER the breast.
rAll the big dressmakers say that ex-
Uemely dainty and fllmy hiouses will
Il worn this winter under fur wraps
nd long coats. These blouses win be
! dcollete ana the sleeves viii be long
1 md transparent.
on the terrace of the Casino at San
ehastian I saw yesterday afternoon
really charming blouse which at
stketed ny attention because a its sim
pie ontlsne and original decorations. II
sxconp0sed of white washing crepon
! And II waa 1 believe. ! Paquin model.
1hs aeaign was kimono ana soft folds
m crep0n kell over the suede belt in
trent and NJ the sides Then there were
6<..isafe little Sprays 81 wild roses
&0fked III tiny porcelain neads and