The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-22

supple broadcloth: but in cheap quality
1t leaves much TO be desired. good
gablrdine, serge or cheviot will outwear
and outlook n cheap broadcloth and is
a far better investment from every
point of view.
The wool vclours. duvetyn and similar
velvety finish woollens have lost pres
tge since las; season. though they are
still seem but velvet and velveteen are
not merely a fashion. They are rage
In everything from street costume to
dancing frock velvet Is popular. and one
sees some unusual and stunning effects
In velvet street attire.
For Instance. the other afternoon A
slender. arlstocratic looking woman
went from her limousine into an up
town millinery shop clad in a one piece
frock OF very deep prune velvet almost
straight from high collar to hem. There
was no trimming save broad band Of
fur at the bottom and some touches of
self-color embroidery on bodice and but
tons. A big fur stole encircled the
wearers shoulders and the hat worn
with the frock was wide brimmed one
OF prune velvet trimmed with one
American Beauty rose.
Another picturesque velvet frock se.n
the same afternoon at a popular tea
place was in black and had a fitted
polona.se or redingote. indicating the
waist line quite positively and then
flowing widely toward the hem. The
wide skirt OF this overgarInent Eel,
broadly away from the from: TO show
petticOat OF very soft black satin.
across which narrow. scan. rrii'l.s of
the satin were set at intervals all the
way from hem TO waist.
In silk, usually of either satin or
corded finish. there are mary graceful
and comparatively simple frocks whose
skirts hang very full 10 the hem, bu;
being longer than the full street skirt
mentioned above. do not have the un.
usual and somewhat startling air OF the
after. These SILK skirts ripple out
gently toward the bottom. and one rec
ognizes In them departure from the
Ubiquitous tun!C silhouette. vet woman
might wear one Of them without feeling
IN any way conspicuous and dress
makers say that such skirts are finding
ready acceptance among the mos. fas-
td!ous OF their customers one wei
known drcsSmlker said last week thai
she had just sent out trousscau order
or very elaborate proport .ons and tina:
not n frock In the lot me- sured less
than Ave yards around The bottom.
while more attained seven Yards THAI
IS an extreme case. hut IL shows which
way the tide IL setting
With the circular skirt which fts
smoothly at waist and hips the CHIEF
problem is the line Of the hem. Circ'l-
lar skirts never did hang evenly and
never will The French designers
frankly admitted that fac, this fall
and made their circular skirt bottoms
boldly uneven, so that the dipping
edges might have the effect of dos lgn
| rather than calamity.
With the ripping skirt. pulled INFO
| the wais:band. the problem is different
| Not one woman in thousand can
wear 1t without looking unattract!vely
! thick from side view. and on this
| account the designers have resorted 70
| hip Jokes, deep girdles. rows Of shir-
| ring, any. and every device to hold the
| full folds lightly ir restraint for a,
least few inches below the waist line
| Doubtless the day will come wher
women Will accept tho thickset. stockN
silhouette as p,ac!dly as any Dutcf
| maiden. but the time is not yet Womer
are willing to no straight and wais;,esS
! but still yedrn toward Sl!mncss. and thi,
| accounts for the pertnaCity with which
, the Oriental girdle In modified forms sur.
wives. Even the stout dowager can wear
! it n 4 Is sk!lfully arranged and L does
make the very full skirt more becom.
ing 10 most figures.
A full skirted, softly G!ri,ed model pic.
;ured in one % tho small cuts is Illus
trative Of the prevailing comprom.s,
tw.Xt new and Old and bears the unmis.
takable stamp OF the new season without
any hint of the ultra novel. Sucl
frocks as these will fnd quick accept.
ance and they have much 10 recommend
them.
The back of n frock or coat to-day I,
| quite likely to he the most intcrestinl
feature of IL, and model very demur,
and unpretentlpus from front Wow
often holds surprise for tho person who
walks around Il. The trim little velve'
military coat Of the central group. rol
example. develops most frivolous and
effective capeliSe loosCncss in the back
and simple girdled frock fronts consor
with curious straight falling backs