davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20
by BESSIE ASCoUGH.

-&HE winter garments Of to-day are as
exaoting and csprieious as a pretty
n woman; and they are intensely indi-
.;so,l Each coat and each wrap demands, in
Uncertain voice its own special lining; its
sneeisl fur trimmings and, above all, its
-, r,;vste buttonhole of artistic, often high
~ unnatural. flowers.
To every coat its own lining. That may be
- 20 he the cry of the world of fashion this
winter.
The new cloth materials are exquisitely soft
hut Of rough appearance the new Innings are
: srnnle as chiffon and Intentionally unex-
n.c,ed Take for example an apparently
s;-,,le winter costume which was recently
.,,ated bv a tailor who is as well known in
1ondon as in Paris. The material was beau
,;iullv soft warm frieze in a dainty shade of
.ge.shen blue There was a short not tight,
stirt which was accompanied by long tunic,
and then there was splendid wrap-coat which
rad an exaggerated fare at the hem.
Tn. coat was cut in the latest fashion. al
most tight at the bust and waist and then
sbaped out toward the hem. There was wide
,,inture-also of frieze-which was fastened
nv two large buttons made OF lemon-yellow
oalsith. similar buttons appearing on the
wrists of the rather loose sleeves; then there
yer. bands Of natural fitch which formed
high collar and turnback cuffs and the coat was
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20

vidual taste is, just now, being allowed great
liberty.
1t is just as correct to wear little fur neck
tie accompanied by jaunty cap or toque, as
to wear a superb stole of priceless ermine or
sable Everything depends upon the choice OF
Innings and etceteras, the latter useful word
covering such important trifies as buttonholes'
wells, ornaments and so on.
BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT COAT.
saw recently very delightful restaurant
coat which might be described as a general
utility garment for it could be worn IN the
afternoon as we'll as in the evening. This was
one of the very new, exaggeratediy loose
models. The material was dull blue broche
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20

lined throughout with lemon-yellow pesu de
sole, 1t was delicious color scheme: simple
but effective.
Old ROSE FRIEZE WITH BLACK FOX
TRIMMINGS.
The model have just described would be
'0eai II copied in old-rose frieze, with Innings
ana buttons in some subtle shade of blue and
O'Ack tox or skunk to form the collar and cuffs.
" again, the same model might be expressed
u nut-brown camers hair cloth with Innings OF
fpmpadour brocsde. brown galalith buttons,
ana mink on the collar and cuffs.
Urls and indeed many women, too, will be
gao to realize that the present fashions permit
+" splendid effects It a comparatively small
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20
CRoSSoVER CoRSAGE OF SILK.

The corsagc of the gown 1 have in my mind
is of the crossover persuasion and is made OF
silk, like the skirt. 1t has long sleeves, and the
fronts, which are folded across, have ends which
at the back meet and are loosely tied like sash.
For the evening this dress would have differ
ent kind of corsage, made mainly of black NOUS
seine, with a silk cummerbund, and though the
sleeves might be long they would be very
lightly draped, and thus transparent. Narrow
rolls Of fur would terminate them at the wrists,
or were pointed cuff added it would fall well
over the hands and be hemmed in with fur.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20

dress that is made with skirt and corsage OF
the same material, and secondly, the one that
introduces two. one for the skirt entirely or in
part. and the other for the corsage.
The utility of the blouse that can be worn
with various skirts is recognized so thoroughly
that a new interest in blouses has arisen, and
in some of the best shops skirts are being sold
for afternoon wear with blouses more or less
elaborate This is plan that was very r-uch
favored in the past and that has been revived
to meet present needs. But it is undoubtedly
less new than the one-material frock.
1t is the fresh presentment of the once very
we'll established princess dress, with the addi-
ton of grdle and of a picturesque tulle
chemisette imitation of the old-time narrow
collar band without its trammelling influence.
The fur trimming adds to the wintry aspect
of the toilette and enhances the cosiness OF the
Bordeaux-red shade chosen for it.
Another very graceful house frock design
for afternoon wear, which can be extended to
evening dress requirements if liked, includes
a petticoat made of soft satin or dull surfaced
silk, with an overskirt of mousseline or net,
set into the waist full and tucked in graduated
widths. This overskirt does not conceal the
petticoat entirely, but ceases some six or eight
inches above the feet, leaving the petticoat
visible
Pearl grey makes good choice, and there
is a soft shade of salmon which, when yelled
with black, is sufficiently dark to suit appre
citation for subdued colors.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20
Each Coat or Wrap is O Sep
arate Entity, and as Such
Demands Everything,
Even Special Button
holes of Its Own.

cost. Nearly all the new tailor-made models
are finished with small fur collar or with
straight band like little tour de cou, at the
neck. Straight bands of fur circle the wrists,
and that is all. With the addition of fancy
muff and smart toque there is an ideal win
ter costume. OF course those fortunate per
sons who possess large stoles and muffs of
costly fur are using them, gladly. But indi-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20

Simplicity OF line marks this flat eanotier OF
black velvet, whose lining is Of white MORE.
circlet of burnt brown ostrich edges the upper
brim. The small hat is one Of the new military
models in black velvet and taffeta.
velvet which had raised pattern of rose mad
der and silver roses.
The lines of the coat were absolutely straight
and the most important point connected with
it was the fact that it seemed several sizes too
large for It's wearer. This IS one OF the latest
ideas and it is worthy of attention.
In making choice Of wrap-coat great care
must be taken to select one which seems, &C
cording 10 old-fashioned ideas, several sizes
too large In this way an absolutely loose,
careless appearance is obtained and since all
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20

to benefit others, adds much to the variety of
the designs issued.
But there are two main schemes: firstly, the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20

these coats are made of ultra-soft and warm
materials, with Innings to correspond, the result
is admirable. Such loose coats make a stout
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-20

A tea gown, this, that is daringly colorful,
with its gray tangerne-shot mousseline de sole,
bordered with monkey fur and with ceinture OF
dull gold, vermilion and bronze velvet.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
SHOT IN DEFENDING WOMAN
Ex-Nnyor of seEanne, Aged TT
KILLED by German.

PApts. DOT. 24--"In tho interest OF his
torical truth" writes VI. Louis Gooron.
chief officer OF the Health Administration
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
CEREALS FOR BELGIUM.
Relief Com Mission VIII Pay for For.
wardins Food.

LONDON. Nov S.-The report o. tho
American Relief Commission for It's sec
ond week states that since the commits
sion was inaugurated 2,2S3 tons OF
cereals have been delivered to the Bcl-
gian relief stations. $3.50 tons are in
Holland and are being despatched daily.
8,472 are en- route from England,
500 tons are on the Atlantic, 10000
tons are loading at various ports and
eight different cargoes of an estimated
total OF $4,000 tons are in the course OF
collection.
BY November Is the commission will
have delivered to the Belgian stations APP
proxImately 1900 tons and during the
remainder OF November will be able 10
deliver about 10 900 tons more. The COM
mission therefore Is stu about 20, 600 tons
short for November
The requirements from December l will
he $4,000 tons monthly. The commission
has assurances OF $4,000 tons for
December and January.
The commission has now received finan-
cial backing on this side enabling II to
pay for the transportation Of any food
stuffs from anywhere in the world and
put them In the hands of the Belgians.
so that every ounce given In America will
reach It's destination without Transports
ton or organization expenses
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
KEEP NEUTRALITY BY ARMS.
Turn Athletic Energy Into Military
Training, Says the Rev. DR.. Young.

The Rev. Dr. s Edward Young. pastor
Of the Bedford Presbyterian Church. Nos
trand avenue and Dean street, Brooklyn.
who has been active in organizing the now
Official Inter-church Peace League, said
last night in the ninth OF his Sunday eve
ming war talks that conditions abroad
Justify general military training for all
young men here.
I'VE should do our best 10 keep out OF
this European Asiatlc- African conflict" he
said but we must not be blind to the
fact that We are still In a world where a
powerful military nation may make war
upon an unoffending lcss ready people
our perfect neutrality will not mako sure
that some other Government. which has
the army and navy and wants some OF our
possessions, will hesitate minute to seize
what It wants II we continue to be so
comparatively without military power
"a portion OF the athletic energy and
enthusiasm could 20 into universal educa
ton In the military manual. Our country
might increase Its capacity for manufac-
turing arms. and such measures would
help VS. n 10 neutral and ~ count more IN
cur influence FOR world peace"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
JAPANESE TAKE 1900
CAPTIVES AT 7SING-TAO
Germans Accept Terms Of Sur.
rcnder-Will Turn Over
Forts Tomorrow.
Specioi cable Despdtch TO THE sus.

TOXIC. Nov s--The following ofncial
statement was issued AZ the War once
this afternoon
The German and Japanese plenipo-
tentiaries concluded on the evening
on November yesterday the pour
parlers concerning the conditions for
the surrender OF Tsing-tao. our terms
were accepted In their entirety. An
other meeting will be held tomorrow
morning at 10 o'clock. on November
10 Tuesday the forts will be turned
over.
Our casualties on tho night OF No
vember 6 and the following morning.
when the forts were captured. were
fourteen officers wounded and 42s
soldiers killed or wounded. Two
British were wounded. We took
$500 prisoners in the battle.
The report OF Vice. Admiral Kato on me
capture of Tsing-tao says that after tho
taking OF the central fort the left wins
OF tho attacking column advanced and
occupied Chan shan. which VIE the base
OF the right wing Of the German defence
line. This was at 5 10 Friday morning.
Meanwhile other forces captured the
forts OF the first line at the point of the
bayonet. as well as the other dangerous
defence works connecting the forts. Other
forces advanced on the main line OF the
Iltis Bismarck and Moltke forts.
Suddenly a nag OF surrender was run
up on the Observatory on n NH.
The report says that during the last two
days OF the fighting the warships con-
tinued To shower a terrific hail of shells
on the fortress and the city from the east
and south. infiicting tremendous damage
The Taisi-chen fort appeared to blow up
The Emperor and Empress of Japan
have sent messages OF appreciation 20 the
Japanese and British forces which took
part In the operations resulting in the
taking OF Tsing-Tao.
In his message to the Japanese forces
the Emperor expressed his gratitude for
the faithful discharge of their duties by
the officers and men OF the army and
navy. The despatch TO the British forces
read:
The Emperor deeply appreciates the
brilliant deeds of the British army and
navy which cooperating with the Japan
ese fought bravely and achieved the OBJ
ject of the war
Although 1t was officially announced
that Gov. Meyer Waldeck conducted the
negotiations for the surrender OF the town.
n rumor has spread that the Governor was
wounded and that he committed suicide.
Other reports say that the garrison OF
the fortress attempted 10 escape by
train, continuing their infantry firing up
to the last minute. and that many of them
escaped across the bay in tunks These.
according to the report. are now being
pursued by Japanese troops
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
CHARITY HEAD WANTS
RELIEF RESERVE HERE
Robert w. de Forest Issues Bull
letin on War Fund Giving
by Americans.
SUFFERING IN U. S., TOO

Robert W. de Forest. president Of the
Charity Organization Society. has issued
a special bulletin to members OF the 30
clety In which no answers the question
as to whether Americans should make
contributions TO the Red Cross. Belgian
and other war relief funds. Mr. de Forest
Is also chairman OF the executive com
mttee of tho Belgian Relief Committee
and vice-pres!dent of the American Ma
tionai Red Cross.
Should we contribute TO the Red
Crossr' asks Mr.. do Forest in the bulletin.
Emphatcally. yes. But not at the cost
OF neslecting suffering In America
Many OF the officers and members OF
this society are associated with the Amer
lean Red Cross and different national
committees formed TO help women and
children and other non-oombatants in
Europe They are giving literally OF
their service and money to this cause. but
they are giving no less service and no less
money to the work OF this society.
The need in Europa is great--very
great. Lot us help Europe TO meet IL II
we can. But the direct responsibility for
meeting that need falls on the great ma
tons OF Europe. nations that are our
creditors TO the amount OF tens OF millions.
which they are now very properly asking
America TO pay.
This Is the chief cause ~ our present
financial difficulties and a cause OF much
suffering here and much more suffering
still TO come. Moreover. we will be called
upon TO bear some OF Europes burdens.
for many who have gone TO Europe TO
fight have left their wives ana children
here.
We cannot expect help from Europe
Our own burden will be greater than ever
before and we must pcrforce bear that
burden alone.
Therefore, while we should give and
give literally 20 relieve suffering In
Europe, we should hold ourselves suffi-
ciently In reserve TO be able 20 relieve
suffering at home. II means more sacri-
fee and more self-deniai."
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09

petition in tho purchase OF supplies and
the consequent increase In prices.
by shipping any OF the following arti-
Giles, charges prepaid. preferably In car
load lots: Wheat. -four. rice. cofreo Cone
quarter chicory). peas. beans canned
goods, cured or sailed meats
"Perishable goods. such as potatoes.
apples or other fresh fruits. cannot be
accepted.
IAN shipments should be consigned 20
the Belgian Relief Committee Bush Ter
mlnal. Brooklyn. ". Y. As shipments
will have TO stand railroad journey. trans
fer at New York and long sea voyage
they should be shipped in good strong
packages. Individual packages should
have a tag showing the contents.
The arrangements for distribution
have been made by the American Com
mittee in London OF which Ambassador
Page Ia chairman, and provide for dis
tributing stations in Belgium under the
immediate supervision of the American
Cons,ils in the afflicted region. Every
precaution seems to have been taken
to Insure the delivery Of SUPPLIES to needy
persons for whom otherwise no provision
whatever would he made
AN communications should BE- ad-
dressed 20 the Belgian Relief Committee.
10 Bridge street. New York city"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
SHIPS OFFERED
FOR RELIEF BY
ROCKEFELLER
Foundation to Find Vessels
to Carry Public's Gifts
to War Victims.
NATIONWIDE APPEAL
FOR STARVING THRONGS

The Rockefeller Foundation. which last
week announced It's determination TO spend
millions for the relief OF suffering non-com
batnnts In Europe. made known yesterday
a plan to charter steamers for the convey
ance OF any amount OF food tho American
reople at large will contribute for the
starving Relgtans
In this particular department OF the vast
relief work the foundation expects to
carry forward 1t has sought and obtained
the cooperation ~ the belgian Relief Com
mittee OF New York Of which Robert w
dc Forest Is tho chairman. 1t is hoped
that with the shipping facilities thus pro-
Vlded by the foundation the Belgian Re
lief Committee will be able to greatly
hasten the movement OF supplies bought
by H.
That this cooperative scheme OF help for
the Belgians may advance as quickly as
possiblo the foundation has already So
cured from the BUSH terminal Company a
pter to he used exclusively Tor tho storage
and collection Of food destined for Bel
gium. At the same time ARRANGEMENTS
have been made through Amba ssador Page
70 have British varshlp convoy the
steamers sent by the foundation through
he North Sea.
while tho foundation was issuing a
written announcement Of this plan yester-
dsv the Belgian Relief Committee sent
out an appeal 70 the people Of this coun-
Try 10 contribute money with which food
fNr tho BelEiaus may be purchased or to
send food - the Bush Terminal. where II
may ne loaded directly into steamers pro-
'ided hy the foundation.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
SAYS U. S. TRADE WILL
PROMOTE WORLD PEACE
Herbert s. Houston Makes Adj
dress in Church on "Busi-
ness and the War"

Admitting that trade rivairles bcget
wars. Herber, s. Houston told the congre-
cation ~ 81 Georges Church, Hampstead.
l.. l.. last night. In his address on Bust
ness and the War" that he thought the
growth OF commerce and the interrelations
OF the business of the world are the
greatest future safeguards against another
such war as that now going on.
World commerce has had a steady,ng
influence on the nations. although n was
not strong enough to prevent the war" he
said. "Peronally believe the war was
largely brought on by absolutism-bv a
Kaiser. n Gar and an Emperor who
were to a great degree irresponsible, 20
far az their respective countries were con-
cerned. But this absolut!sm has been
steadily modified and limited during the
course OF the centuries. And this has
como largely through the growth OF com.
mercc. Men have traded and travelled and
grown in breadth Of vision and in inde-
pendence. And as they have grown, alb
solutsm has waned.
But you may say. what Of Il aus An
end has merely been marked to another
war, one of the many that have marked
the history Of man from the stone Age
until now But my reply liz that despite
this world shaking conflict despite all
OF the distress and devastation that II has
caused, war will b. less likely 10 occur
In the future than ever before. And this
will be due largely 10 the growth OF COM
merce and to the growth of democracy.
In the last analysis ] presume | might
say 10 tho growth OF knowledge"
The opening OF the Panama Canal, tho
impetus given to an American merchant
marine by the registry bill and the pres
tlge that will accrue n the United States
IL the President 10 the mediator in tn.
settlement OF the European confiict--all
these things, said Mr. Houston. will re-
dound to the great advancement of the
trade OF the United States. And through
American mediation, also. will come n
power that will steadily make for per-
manent peace.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
SAYS WILSON SHOULD
ACT ON SEA MENACE
Sir Thomas Barclay Asserts Ger
mans Violate Hague
Rules.
DEFINES USES OF MINES
Special Cable Dcspdteh 10 Tur sr,

opecfdi Cdofe Dcspdfch 10 THE SrN.
BORDEAUX, Nov. ST. sincerely be-
lieve that the moment has arrived when
PRESIDENT Wilson as the head OF a great
neutral State should raise his voice
against the ruthless menace to innocent
lives whose interests are outside those
OF either Of the belligerents and against
the wanton destruction OF property on
the high seas contrary to the rules of
civilized warfare" declared Sir Thomas
Barclay. vice-president OF the Institute
or international Law. to the correspond
ent Of THE Sun to-day.
Sir Thomas, who was tho real
originator OF the Entente Cordlale. is in
bordeaux for few days. After making
the above declaration ne proceeded IN
discuss the indiscriminate laying of sub
marine mines by Germany on the lines
or an article which he is preparing for
an English magazine. He said:
These mines should be vigorously
confined to territorial waters. am IN.
aware or the precise views Of the Rritish
ana FRENCH Admiralties on the subject
OUT speak as an expert in international
a" ana as "a humanitarian. England
mas Followed suit In self protection. hut
ner method differs fundamentally from
'hat or Germany. as che confines tho
practice TO n well defined area.
Germany, so far from doing this
aous menace 10 neutrals by carving
mines on cruisers. with the object ~
blowing 70 pieces their pursucrs and
even specially protected hospitaI sbIns
Yet Germany at tho Hague conference
In 1907 admitted to tho fullest extent Tho
Claims that neutrals should be sub
n!tted TO the minimum of tnolestatior
through the use OF floating mines Gro,t
britain went step further in reserving
mo right to contest the legality OF onv
such proceeding
ne position OF mines under ,,,o-,.
.onaI law may be summed un aa foIlo,,.
FIRST, the Hague convention saun,,',s1
tnelr use secondly. bclligerents and po,,
Uais alike can use territorial watera Tor
inc purpose OF defence. provided uroncr
warning ia given Thirdly, helllRerer+s
'"s place mines in an enemy's territorial
waters provided notice Is given SO no 20
insure the safety OF navigation rNour,h,,,
oeIhserents may use mines in the ir,r,edi
NJ" neighborhood OF hos,ilitles s5,,iioni,
win other engines Of wnr Tho ereo -,
nos''l'ies Is vague term. but ~ II has
- 'nsc Ut ri, IL means n reasonable
"reH ehurely confined to hostiiities More
over mine laying In such an aren should
nns pe allowed to cndnnEer navigation
once hostilities have terminated
Such being tho position. accord,rn ..
the views OF the Powers assembled M tho
hague conference It IL Impossible tina,
German has reoonciled her act ION with her
own undertaking at This conference
But on broad grounds there "a even n
more serious underlying danger ~ this
scheme Of warfare continues which U ,,9
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09

and a prominent official OF tho Ministry Of
Public instruction. according TO tho facts
established OH the spot by French ard
English military authorities. the condi-
tons under which my father-in-law, VI
Quenescourt. ex-Mayor OF Sezanne WAS
shot by the Germans at the age OF u.
can be stated. lie was shot on Sunday.
September s. on his property called La
Manure. in the parish Of Ferte-Gaucher.
as he was defending from the violence Of
a uhlan a woman OF the country who had
Ned to tho farm. la Manure, with her
child" We're at least is one outrage at
trihuted TO tho Germans OF which ma
terials for Investigation seem TO exist.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-09
WOULD RELIEVE WIDOWS OF TAX
Immigration League Makes Appeal
for Women Afflicted by War.

Officers OF the National Liberal I'm
migration League began Saturday the
preparation OF an appeal 10 Congress for
the suspension of the head tax In the case
OF widows and orphans coming 10 this
country from the countries now at war In
Europe. Nissim Behar. managing d.
rector OF the organization. said that n
precedent for such course was fur
nished during the famine In Finland, when
Finnish widows and orphans were ad-
mitted into this country owing to the
unusual circumstances.
Mr.. Behar said that the Immigration
officials are opposed to tho suspension OF
any OF tho rules on the ground that they
have been carefully worked out He said,
however. that II was impossible 20 foreses
tho conditions that now exist