The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-07-05

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latest and most decisive law
laid down by that most power
full of all autocrats, Fashion.
III II you wish to be really in the move
ment you must wear gowns which TO
the unframed eye look like "just moth
Ing" but which are 80 exquisite in ma
terial, design and detail that they can
not be copied.
There Is the important point--some-
thing which cannot be copied. For some
time past the leading artists in the
world Of dress have been simmering--
and then boiiing-with Indignation over
The wholesale copies that are made OF
their mos. cherished designs. Only the
other day Paul Poiret discussed the sub
tect with me and expressed his vele-
ment indignation.
Poiret. In conjunction with six or
seven leading Partisan dressmakers, is
making strenuous efforts to put an end
70 the present state of affairs, bit am
very muca afraid that the copy cats"
will find way of continuing their prac-
tees. Ths moment an original and at
tractive model is launched and sold 1t
Is at the mercy of these persons who
make a living out of other peoples IDEAS
Poiret lis very determined man and
on this occasion he Is in deadly earnest.
but the task Of breaking up this band of
buccaneers Is immensely difficult. He
has my sincere sympathy and good
wishes, but think that the final down
fall of the copy cat, will be achieved
by eclectic elegantees who make fine
art of individuality and who carry dis
may into the ccpyists' camp by means
OF costly simplicity.
This note Is being struck very firmly
In certain quarters at the present
9nayssa4,.- Certain society leaders -A-hn
are tired of the obvious and who sin
ccrely deplore the ultra modern spirit
which places a uniform on IL pedestal,
have formed themselves into a select
band They have determined to make 1t
impossible fer little nobodies to copy
them. they have determined 10 be. In
their own parsolss 50 individual, and, in
a certain seuse so simple. that tbs copy
cat will have nothing to copy.
Fer example. no one could copy nlrny
gown OF real old Valenriennes lace worn
in conjunction with a single string or
matches pearls, lovely black picture
hat and great cluster OF heiiotrope
thrust into the waist belt. You can
initiate such costume. but the lmiea~
ton would he useless. for no ono except
the individual woman who possessed the
historic string of pearls could carry the
gown successfully.
This liz not the type OF gown which is
copied There In nothing sensational
about real cid Nalenciennes or needle
point. It does not. in tire eyes Of The
foreign buyer, represent the latest thing
from Paris. And the same applies to
the exquisite Indian muslin gowns.
overiafd with fragile eunbroideries. which
are In reality lie Jernier cri'' of the
present season. These exquisite gowns
pass unnoticea al the races or in
crowded restaurants, but the genuine
dress expert in we'll aware that they,
perhaps they alone. express the spirit
az the exclusive Parisienne Of 1914
This ss season of embroidered mus
Inns, fine as butterfly wings, and OF
real lAeeS. IL Is a season of milk white
pearls OF great size and OF real nowers
1t is q season of picture hats and flow
Ing feathers and gauze scarfs. which
have been made priceless by the brush
Of famous painters. All this, which
have called costly simplicity. expresses
the spirit OF the hour. II expresses, and
very clearly, the revolt Of refined and
cultured women against the outrageous
and utterly meaningless uniforms which
ara being shown In every street and In
every country, bearing the label --latest
Parts Fashions
A wonderful Jewel ball which has just
been given In Paris by an influential So
cfety leader has strengthened my con-
ytction that costly simplicity is to be
the war cry of the elegantes In the I'M
mediate future The value OF the jewels
worn at this ball was almost fabulous,
and yet most of the gowns were re-
markAbIy simple In design.
y II was a night OF jewels. The ma
1prity OF the ladies wore powdered hair.
ID powder and Pitches are supposed
10 show OF precious stones to great
perfectiona or real lace gowns there
ssers many. One OF the loveliest women
present was draped in silver tuile and
her chosen gems were diamonds. On
good authority heard that the jewels
which accompanied that simple robe
pf silver tuile were worth 100000
Baronne Henri de Rothschild wore a
marvellous collection OF pearls said to
b. worth 1900, 900. and In that amazing
ballroom there were emeralds and
fubies and other precious stones Of I'M
told value. It was memorable enter
tainment and for me 1t had special
interest. for 1t seemed to place crown
upon the scheme Of costly simplicity to
which have already alluded.
The woman who possesses a string
Of real pearls and a few lengths of old
lace can afford to laugh at the anxious
eyed copyist, And woman of strong
Individuality can afford to do without
either real lace or pearls. for she will
knew how to EXPRESS herself in snowy
muslin and supple ribbons just as Nine.
Recamier expressed herself in days gone
Nv We have never heard that Nine