New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-11-02
athletics as Trimming
New Evening Gowns Glisten
with This lAdorn-
ment.


"ORTUNATELY "sll that glitters
II is not gold" Nor silver. Nor
vet genuine jewel. Else the
all.over paille;tcd gown would be a
curiosity equal TO that Of the feather
robe Of state formerly worn by Ha-
waiian Island royalties. Nevertheless,
the robes which glisten, jewel-l.ke,
with every movement Of their wearers
arc not cheap affairs. IN fact, they
arc about as expensive as anything to
he found in the way Of evening garb.
AZ q glance one sees that the labor OF
railettinc the fabric must be eXces-
sively difficult. aside from the putting
together Of the gown, which is not n
task to be lightly undertaken. For Just
as the best Of food may be spoiled in
the cooking, so may pailletted fabrics
be ruined in the making up. Assuredly
they will not stand being FUSED
over"
GIinting Black Moyen Age Gown.
On the contrary. the less they are
cut up or draped the better is the eff
feet produced. Probabl. this is why
one Of the most successful among the
pailletted evening gowns launched Of
late is on Moyen Age lines. Its closely
fitted black satin princess slip is
yelled with a full length "chemise" of
Jet psilletted black tulle suspended
from the shoulders by rather broad
straps Of the transparency, which, how
ever, are Jet csbochon clssped at the
srm-tops.
Holding in the fitness OF the gauze
between armpits and bust line is a
four-irch broad jet incrusted band
which repeats itself at the hips From
there the skirt falls to the floor, but
does not drag at the back. A train
effect is produced by a broadly pail
letted scarf Of excessive width. whose
one end is caught against the left
shoulder at back, while the upper cor
ner OF the remaining end is drawn
over and Joined under the right arms
wrist Save for Its modern materials,
the costume is strictly MOyen Age.
White Pailletted Grecian Dress.
From that period the step backward
into the Athenian age is not long
one in the realm OF evening garb. As
typically early Grccian Of design as
are the robes worn by any Of the femi-
nine figures Of an Alma-Tadema mural
Is an iridescent spaneled white dinner
gown composed OF two straight lengths
Of the very wide material to which the
paillettes are attached. Gathered TO
cover the shoulders almost 20 the base
90 the throat and 70 barely conceal
the arm-tops. this sleeveless robe
drops. front and back, into a slightly
pointed decolletage.
While at the left side Of the figure
the pailletted fabric drops in series
Of deep folds to below that arm and
concesls the waist line perfectly, from
the opposite shoulder, The fabric IS
drawn in folds low on that hip and
then diagonally across the front. AT
the left side it is dropped far over the
bips but al the back it is raised to an
indefinite waist line and caught there
with a single pink rose. Below TINS
all-in-one drapery, the remainder OF
the front section, obviously Of much
greater length than the back half OF
the robe, falls in graceful, slantlng
wavelike folds to the feet.
The real difference between the all
tlack and the iridescent gowns, the
two most alluring models among this
seasons pailletted evening gowns Is
enc Of outline. Whereas, IN the Moyen
Age reproduction the lines are kept Sc"
we're. because the materials are un-
draped, in order to produce early Gre
clan effects, similar fabrics are vague
ly. always srtistically, swathed ABOUT
the figure. Neither type Of gown is
really suitable to wear to a dance. But
both types are ideal for formal am
ners. as they appear to the utmost aa-
vantage in rooms lofty and spacious
Black Bordered Silver and Blue Cloak
Gorgeous" perfectly describes the
newest models among pailletted opera
cloaks. For any occasion less lmpor-
.ant than a grand opera suDscrip'lo"
night performance these wraps o> eN-
trayagantly beautiful materials seem
700 elaborate, notably certain modei
in silver, white and blue. Carrying d
design in corn flower blue beads upo"
ITS iridescent pailletted surface TINS
wrap. long and flowing, is broadly Dor