The Washington herald., 1914-03-01

other overdress and bodice of chiffon
matching the mOire. This chiffon also
formed a short peplum over the closely
hung satin overdress. Neutral colored
] chiffon formed long. close Unlined sleeves
which are a new feature. While unlined
these fragile sleeves were by no means
undecorated, as they are almost covered
in embroidery in chenille.
Reds, pinks, green's. and purples in va
rious tones all entered into this striking
decoration. The same embroidery, but
applied to the plum satin. decorates the
single end which hangs directly down
the back. it also forms an empiecement
on satin from the belt halfway up the
| front of the chiffon bodice.
Notwithstanding that this is a colorful
season. white and black in the true mag
pie combination continues to hold its
own.
Miss Eleanor Wilson's white satin
gown with ite narrow draped skirt, broad
girdle OF black velvet and black velvet
sash that is almost a train in itself has
close counterpart I'm a gown worn at
one of last weeks dinners where Coun-
| tess Gizycki. the former Miss Eleanor
Patterson. who Joined her mother at the
Dupont circle residence of the family.
en- route for Florida.
Both these extremely modish frOcks are
of the soft, white satin. In the case of
Countess Gizycki the Eirdle is somewhat
deeper than that of the Presidents
daughter but the sash end is hardly
wider than the apron string sash the
CallOt sisters have made famous. This
falls to the bottom of the skirt. Coun-
tess Gizycki carried out the magpie plan
motif by wearing head dress of black
aigrettes held by an ornament of dia-
monds also by wearing across her
shoulders a very long scarf OF black
tulle.
To be graceful as well as fashionable
this perishable accessory must be long
enough to fall to the floor.
The White House reception on Tuesday
evening and the first formal at home by
Lady Spring-Rice at the British En-
bassy on Saturday. showed beyond ques-
ton the conservatism Of Washington :
leading matrons from whatever circle
the guests of these two notable oc-
casions came. Plain colors predOminated
on both occasions, Notwithstanding many
of the gowns We're worn for the first
time Plain colors must not be interpre-
ted as merely the direct primary hues
familiar to all parts of the world, as the
smartness of many n gown now depends
largely on its absolutely distinct color
tone. This being one of the tests by
which the new is known from the old,
the fabric of today from that of yester-
day.
Mrs. James r. Mann. wife of the mi
nority leader of the House, is one of
the best dressed wCmcn of the Congress
sional circle who does not subscribe to
any of the Futurist or the MARITIME colors,
yet looks extremely chic in her trained
gowns of one-toned satin or velvet. Mrs.
Mann wore on Saturday evening a dark
blue satin made with long, square train,
and only the slightest OF drapery. The
drapery was caught in front in a box
piait slightly raised to show the plain
round skirt beneath. The train was of
the Vatican or Court variety. starting
from the waist line. abbreviated in
length to suit the requirements of the
ordinary drawing room, and edged with
broad band OF black fur. The bodice
followed the accepted present-day line
with dropping shoulders and close cor
sage drapery of chiffon or net matching
the satin, with a slight introduction of
fur
In the Baroness Zwiedinek wife of the
counselor of the Austro-Hungarian EN-
bassy, Washington has a splendid eX-
ample or the woman OF European salons.
who is always well gowned. but extremely
conservative, and with marked individu-
ality as well. Baroness Zwiedinek is dis
tinctly partial to dark colors and to long.
severe lines dinner or ball gown that
might serve for q model in almost any
material. but which in this particular
case Is Of rich black attn and gold Iace
shows a trained skirt without any
drapery or fullness, yet wide enough at
the hem to suit even Queen Mary of Eng
land. Above this is the lace or net over
dress, opening in front, after the fash
ion OF the newest coat-like tunics. show
ing the plain. narrow line of satin skirt
The tunic dips in the back and is drawn
into the waist line, showing a fashion
that is both new and graceful. The gold
lace, or embroidery, forms almost the
entire overdress from belt to hem. and
also appears in a smart line on the
skirt. The trimmed skirt is one of :he
promises of the coming season. The
bodice Of this gown Is almost entirely
black. bu: of q cheerful black found only
in satin and tulle. The gold is of lus