The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-03-22

stitches as nearly invisible as possible from the right side. ',
 The tunic may be.lined throughout with a soft silk in self or contrasting tones or it can be faced up around the bottom with silk or bias strips of the material. This facing should be an inch and half deep. It may be put on in one of two ways. For the first turn up the edge of the tunic half inch, turn in both edges of the facing. haste the wrong side of the facing to the wrong side of the tunic, and hem or bhndstitch the lower edge and stitch the upper on by machine This edge of the facing is first carefully pasted. then is stitched on the right side.
 The second method of putting on the fac ing is to place the right side of the facing to the right side of the tunic. haste carefully, and stitch in a quarter inch seam Turn, crease the edges evenly. haste again along the edge of the tunic, fold in narrow edge at the top of the facing, baste to the tunic. and stitch on the right side as before.
 Using the same two piece straight skirt pattern, omit the tunic for second skirt and open it in the middle of the back under the shaped founce. This is put on to simu- late a tunic and consists of two shaped semi circular pieces. Cut these pieces to face in opposite directions by laying the material right side to right side. The fronts are eleven inches deep and slope up to an inch and a half wide at the middle of the back at the belt line. The front edges are sloped to form sharp angle in the middle of the front breadth of the skirt. the top of the ruff file just meeting where it joins the skirt, about fourteen inches from the waist line.
 This piece is put on to simulate a pointed or apron shaped tunic in front. the section being cut to slope in curved line to the mid 1Ie of uh if af ha balk line. The outer edges of this ruffle meet or even overlap slightly at the back, forming straight vertical line for the depth of seven eight inches.
 Line this shaped piece throughout with silk and stitch the bottom of the cloth first, an inch from the edge Sew to the skirt along the top of the curve. making the join ing either by machine stitching close to the edge or by blind stitching.
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 Sknt in Tafeta.
 A third skirt. which is especially good for soft taffetas. either in the suit or one piece frock. may be adapted from the same founda- tion skirt, but this time the opening is in the center of the front The upper part of the front breadth is slashed down at each side to the depth of eight inches, making wedge shaped piece four and a half inches wide at the top and six inches at the bottom. These pieces are faced with silk and from beneath them start the shaped tunic or overskirt, which slopes to an inch or more below the knees at the back. zs
 The center of the slashed section in front is cut in straight line twelve inches deep and is also faced back with the material and stitched half inch in from each edge with machine stitching that is squared across the bottom. These edges hook closely together so they just meet. an under flap being sewed on to conceal any gaps. Three buttons are set on the line of stitching on each sjde of the top. They start at the upper edge of the skirt and are spaced to be just the depth of the girdle. which extends under this slashed section in soft folds around the back and sides. This may bsmade of silk and can be any becoming depth.
 The peplum to this skirt, which is only around the sides and back, is gathered at the top under tho crushed girdle. save directly in the middle of the back, where the materdaa Is laid>in graduated box plait four inches wide at the top and seven at the bottom. Line or face this peplum and stitch on the machine around the bottom an inch and half or two inches from the edge This stitching is done before lining. If faced 1t must be deep enough not to show in the undcrfold of the box plait. where 1t turns at the bottom.