The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-05-03
PLATEAU HATS TILTED OR RAISED II. ,AEck
THE SPRING IDEA IN MILLINERY 'o $50
Crecian Wraps Another
Fancy of the Parish
ennes - Turbans and
Fantastic Headdresses
Succeeding Bare Heads
at the Theatre
PARfa. Anfil "a.


Tho profile figure 10 wearing .
plateau hat Of original type, and
this n q leading favorite in Paris this
season.
The model was made Of faded petunia
rice straw and the ribbons were in ultra
marine blue and dull silver. The full
horscnair mount which Juts out at the
rack was in q deep shade Of blue. This
shape il worn . little of tho forehead.
and II Is attractive In Tuscan or Leg
horn straw, with velvet ribbons In .
deep shade OF sapphire blue and With
the back filled with fiat roses. or in
<hite chip trimmed with broad black
velvet ribbon.
The back view figure Ii wearing hat
which in Paris is called a Niniche model.
This shape Is worn pressed down on the
forehead and tilted forward over the
eyes. The model shown in the sketch
was trimmed with a large rose. placed
almost in front, and an immense bow
of'velvet ribbon resting on the high ban
deau which raised tho hat at the back.
All the plateau shapes ind favor with
the Parisiennes, Especially the models
which are raised jauntily at one side on
a high bandeau covered with flowers.
with hats Of this order tho hair 10 worn
rather high at the back. and in some
cases a loose string Of velvet ribbon ID
passed round the coils and tied loosely
at one side.
The two costumes sketched this week
were created for the Auteuil race meet
ing, which is to be attended by the King
and Queen Of England
The figure on the left Is wearing q
very original gown composed Of Chan
tilly lace and a heavy make Of taffeta-
The loose blouse coatee Is in ultramarine
blue Chantilly. and 1t IL immensely
baggy over the bust and under the arms.
the folds of soft lace falling carelessly
over the waist belt The graceful skirt.
with It's full tunic. is in blue taffeta and
the waist belt in mirror velvet In the
same shade. A long cape Of petunia
faced cloth will be worn over this COS
tune should the day prove chilly.
You will notice that the folds OF the
basque follow the line Of the folds on
the tunic. This Is one of the latest
Partisan ideas. and an effective one.
have seen It carried out In models IN
which three tunics. one above the other.
were introduced.
The second figure shows . race wrap
Of purely Grecian design. composed Of
grape purple velvet. The lining was
Futurist printed silk which showed a
checked pattern Of Wedgwood blue and
orange on . smoke gray ground. The
mantle had long pointed fronts. and ono
Of them Il thrown over the shoulder
in the sketch: the point Ii finished with
q handsome tassel In which all the
colors Of the lining are represented.
These Grecian wraps are In great
favor with tho Parisiennes. They arc
made Of mirror velvet in many rich
shades and also In supple cloth and
heavy satin. Everything depends upon
how these wraps are worn--and by
whom They might easily look clumsy, II
not ridiculous.
For the last couple Of seasons bare
heads have been the fashion and elabo-
rate headdresses have been nowhere in
the race for favor. The Parisiennes
have been enthusiastic about the charms
OF English and American styles where
evening dress is concerned. Even at the
smaller theatres It was the fashion to
70 without hat or headdress Of any
kind. Now. however. the pendulum il
slowly swinging back. Not to theatre
hats, for these will never return to their
old position. but in the direction OF tur-
pans ana IautdstiC heduuieesc Va Gal
kinds.
This does not surprise me. The
parisiennes are really very conservative
in their tastes. They have been brought
IN with the idea that bare heads orna-
mented with Jewels are only suitable
for dinner parties and balls; that they
are, in fact. only suitable for private
entertainments. For restaurant wear
aut, 10 alnh a
or headdress has always been considered
necessary. And 1t is not easy to alter
q conviction which has been fed on
tradition.
For a few seasons the English idea
took the Partisan fancy, but little by
little headdresse. began to creep back
A year ago 1t was quite an ordinary
thing to hear some one. even man.
asking a woman to remove her hat at a
morning performance. Nowadays hats
are generally worn at these functions
and II requires very brave and in
sistent man to bring about removal.
And some of the new evening head
dresses are charmingly picturesque. for
example one seen at the Gymnase
Theatre. 1t was a turban composed
Of gold spangled tulle. decorated with
two black mounts. curved in the para
disc style. One of the mounts was
fastened at the back Of the turban
and waved forward; the other was
fastened at the top and waved slightly
back. At the left side there was a
lovely aigrette Of diamonds.
This headdress was worn with a
lovely Beer model composed OF supple
black satin and magnificent gold en-
broidery, worked on black net. The
dress was draped across the front Of
the figure and the gold embroidery was
introduced at the sides in the guise Of
nat panniers At the back the folds OF
satin were drawn together and tied
INTO a large loose bow. this bow being
held in place by a gold buckle. The
upper part of the corsage was made Of
flesh pink tulle yelled In black chiffon
and on tho left shoulder there was a
diamond strap. A cluster of scarlet
taponicas was worn at the waist belt.
1t was an exquisite robe, and when
its wearer was leaving the theatre she
wore an immense circular cape in
1aponica pink velvet with a lining Of
white satin and a deep collar OF black
fox. ! have .Gticed several similar
neaddresses In the smartest theatres.
and 1t Is certain that they will again