The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-05-03

M OW that the time for the closing exer- N cises of school or dancing class is ap-
 preaching. many an anxious mother
 wonders how she is to make her small daughter's dress. Today. therefore, shall tell you how to make several little frocks that can be adapted to any age from to F by increasing the amount of material and the size of the pattern.
 For the party gown dainty nuffiness is the vogue; but this must not be misconstrued to mean ' dressed up doll !" look The small tets have adapted many of the modes of their mothers. but the best dressed girl Is simply gowned.
 Net plaitings and ruffies are much used this season and the German valenciennes laca . well as the finer French varieties are always good and bit more youthful than the shadow laces so much in vogue
 The long waisted French frock, the norma, waist line. and the exceedingly short waist with the skirt hanging free from it are all in good style, sd the mother should select the model best suited to her small girl.s figure The tall. lanky child for her age will look better with the normal waist; the thin dainty girl will find the short waist line especially becoming though she will look well in the long waisted effects also. The stout child can often have her defects of figure covered by the short waisted gown. but the wise mother modifes the waist line and depth of grdle as is most becoming. A stout tall girl of 10 usually looks rather ridiculous with short. funy skirts and long waist.
 I am constantly asked. shall materials be shrunken first? For all but the party dress say unhesitatingly " yes." but there is no denying that some of the freshness is lost by the shrinking process unless you have 1t done In the stores where they guarantee not to destroy the luster of the material. Make the frock rather !" easy and arrange for letting down. Often a hand run tuck can be taken under one of the ruffies 90 a dress Is easily heightened. Most uaterials shrink in the length rather than get too tight It Is also easy to conceal turn down under the ribbon glrdle that is almost uni versally worn this season.
 In cutting out your frocks on these sheer materials. be careful not to pull awry. Slip tissue paper between the fold of the goods pin your different portions of the pattern carefully in place, taking care in 1owered material that the figure always runs the same way. This is usually with the stem down. Also see that the sections are pinned on . straight thread of the goods or your drees will look warped. Unless your pat tern states otherwise allow three-e.ghths of an inch for each seam. Always hold the pat tern to your child. for even in selecting ac- cordins to age or chest measure there will be discrepancies for the individual figure. When tuckfng is to be done plan carefully where 1t is to % and tuck first before cut ting out. This holds good both for machine and hand tucls.
 Finish all seams in these sheer materIals in small Freuoh seam--in other words, gsw the seam first on the right side about an eighth of an inch deep. turp, crease, and trim raw edeee. then oew juet oioss enough Co edge to cover the raw odGes. Hem and gather by hand and sew the drst edge of facing by machine and the turned edge hem by hand
 For tho frst littis frock .uss Paris muslin or batiSts and trim with whita wash net plattings and pink or blue ribbon sirdls. Cut . kinono yoke that eads about an inch and he1f under tho armptts. end elbow slseves' 0pm In middle Of bsok, the edsss nn6shed with . bAif Inch faotng ann tins lace buttons and butteahoIo6. Cut th6 yoke with shAllow ' In front aad int around tho eass Of the nsee q tho hook, 1Inish VIII