The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-05-03

on the part Of restaurants 70 s~ry. a.
many dinners as possible betvan and
This of course Is at hotels rather than
| in homes, whore the company dinner -
not served until 7 or after and time ls
taken 10 appreciate the varied cou-eoq
a great many independent souu IA this
as we'll rs other countries have always
adhered 70 tho idea Of two specially rood
dishes in season, from which tho diners
might help themselves az leisure. d'a-
pensing with entrees game courses ana
many Of the side dishes that d''-act
rather than add ~ a menu in the .~l-
nation of many.
! At this and other sea sons ~ 'Nn wear
when special foods como 70 the market
to disappear all too soon tho two dsS
Nplan would bc a boon % those who t're
Of the various dishes that go many chic
seem 10 think necessary at each meal
filets of beef game and tho Tanv l'-te
! norsels that come in paper irilled caAs
| and caserolettes After several sJrh
dishes have been disposed Vt Z. delicate
bird or "A delicious salad may come IN
to be passed over necessarily by sppe
tiles that have already been satisfied.
| Tho long bills Of fare arc relics n
barbaric days. The dinner Of Two
| dishes, which must not he taken quite
literally, would OF course he a welcome
innovation In entertaining even no~I
/ Many men, tired OF elaborate dinners.
love TO steal off 10 the club for chop
and baked potato. perfectly cooked.
served hot. on hot plates with good
bread and butter. cheese and ale as $40
only Accomplishments.
At this season Of the year two - the
! finest foods on the list are in market.
These are shad roe and the ASPARAGUS
which comes from California and tina
/ South. Both practically disappear with
the end of May
For a two dish dinner IN AprN aud
May. then. this combination cannot I've
outdone, serving sufficient o. these
foods and emitting the little panuikns
Of swcethreads and mushrooms, the
eternal filet mignon and the chicken or
game bird course with the salad.
Shad roe has the distinction Of heiug
as nearly perfect food as can be found.
/ Its flavor, fibre. delicacy and simplicity
, are all in its favor. II may be cooh q
| In Il great variety Of ways. but f1'
method that perhaps appeals most IS
| the fried roe with strips Of bacon md
| plentiful melted butter, parsley aoG
! lemon Juice used separately or az "a
| maitrc dhotel sauce.
! The roe must be cooked Through ~
yet must not be DRIED out. 10 conSeIv-
Its flavor il should he placed IN the n
| in very hot and deep fat after htV -
| been dredGed with nour These dctt -.
known In all practlcod cooks, are often
neglected. Shad roe does not i.n,l
Itself to a second cooking in tho IlS
II must be done right in the fr.t p.tro
and handled with infinite care.
The same can be said of aspar'i-o-.
which should como To the table nlu.tl
wrapped, each stalk firm enough 80 80
white end for handling. yet coo,,i ID
the right tenderness at tho tip. T, ..Ir1
it out this way II must hc picked a..-
and the stalks tied firmly In huncU..,
eN'"N S'' 'oS'''''r' "h'h -
nn'' tne giant aS''''F"s VI 'h''i'S''''
Tor "'S,"no'' Il may ne "rap''" ~
nh'n ''''h uu'I"E 'Is cousins J.
Sl"" roe 'o''''S hrrT /" DE- hf "n'
we "'"' '''"'' ''"'','.' "''"' ''-
taste 90 nearly every one.
,N"',"'' ''''" ', ''''''''''-," '' iva
"'"''" ''""S V'''N'"s' WIN "'N 'i
tn' i,'"N E'''" S'"'"N 'ht' HPp'" so
'"tN ''''' VI ''' F'"' ''"' 'i.''
U''''"' '"' '"''.' i.'''""- '.."
"h'O '',"' '','' '''p '""'' am
" l'',"oM'N ""'" "'" arc P''' " ~
dictod to fruit salads there ar" m.>0.'