The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-07-05

,snt you must wear gowns which to
me UNFRAMED c-'c look like Just moth
sr" but which are SO exquisite in ma
brIaI design and detail that they can
" be copied
There is the important pont--some-
ting why.. cauno. he copied. For some
.ne past the leading artists in the
rsrH IL dress have been slmnering--
ard thin boiling with indignation over
,he wholesale copies that are made OF
1 ,h.r mos cherished designs. Only the
,,ber day Paul Poiret discussed the sub
a., with me and expressed his vehe-
sent Indignation.
Poiret In conjunction with six or
even leading Partisan dressmakers is
,atlng strenuous efforts to put an end
a the present state OF affairs. but l am
very niue. afraid that tho copy cats"
will find u way of continuing their prac-
,,ces III moment an origina, and at
,ractive model is launched and sold 1t
ia AZ the mercy Of these persons who
make living out Of other peoples ideas
po,ret - very determined man and
On this occasion he is in d-..Ily earnest
but the task Of breaking up this band OF
buccaneers is immensely difficult. He
has my sincere sympathy and good
wishes. hut / think that the final down.
fall OF the copy cat" will be achieved
w eclectic elcgantees who make a fine
art OF individuality and who carry dis
may into the copysts' camp by means
Of costly simplicity.
This note IS being struck very firmly
IN certain quarters at the present
moment Certain society leaders. who
are tired ~ the obvious and who sim
cerely deplore the ultra modern spirit
which places a uniform on a pedestal.
have formed themselves into a select
hand. They have determined to make II
impossible for little nobodies to copy
them. they have determined to be. in
their own persoLs so individual! and in
a certain sense so simple. that the copy
cat will have nothing to copy.
For example. no one could copy a fllmy
gown Of real old Nalcnclenncs lace worn
u conjunction with a single string of
watch,ess pearls. a lovely black picture
hat and a great cluster of heliotrcpe
thrust into the waist belt. You can
ru.,ate such a costume but the imita-
aOn would be useless, for no one except
he individual woman who possessed the
historic string of pearls could carry the
gown successfully.
This IS not the type of gown which is
copied. There is nothing sensational
about real old Nalenciennes or needle
.Ont. Il does not, in the eyes OF the
foreign buyer, represent the latest thing
rom Paris And the same applies to
he exquisite Indian muslin gowns
iyer,sid with fragile embroiderics, which
are in reality lie dernicr cri" of the
present season. These exquisite gowns
pass unnoticed at the races or in
crowded restaurants. but the genuine
dress expert is well aware that they
perhaps they alone, express the spirit
Of the exclusive Parisicnne OF 1914.
This is a season OF embroidered mus
Inns fine as butterfly wings, and OF
pearls Of great size and OF real. flowers
i is season OF picture hats and flow
ls feathers and gauze scarfs. which
have been made priceless by the brush
u famous painters. All this, which
nave called costly simplicity. expresses
The spir. of the hour. 1t expresses, and
7tFy clearly. the revolt of refined and
cultured women against the outrageous
and ffnrly nj N ylacQ tinifprmQ which
are being shown in every street and In
srery country, bearing the label --latest
Paris Fashions
wonderful jewel ball which has just
been given in Paris by an influential so.
hety leader has strengt hened my con
sctlon that costly simplicity Is to be
the war cry Of the elegantes in the i'm
mediate future. The value of the Jewels
worn at this ball was almost fabulous
and yet most of the gowns were re-
markedly simple in design.
J. was night OF jewels. The ma
iorty Of tho ladies' wore powdered hair
as powder and patches are supposed
to show of precious stones. TO great
perfection. or real lace gowns there
\ were many. one Of the loveliest womer
present was draped in silver tulle anC
sood authority | heard that the Jewe,.
Nhl'h accompanied that simple rob,
VI s!lNer tut" were worth $4,000.
baronne Henri de Rothschld wore q
marvellous collection of pearls said t.
De worth 5000 900, and in that amazing
"'Ir""u there were cmoraids and
rlhi'N and other precious stones OF un.
'o'd value. II was memorable enter
'd'nment and for me it had specia
interest," for ii seemed to place a crown
upon tie scheme Of costly simplicity IL
"hch J have already alluded
Tne woman who possesses strinl
VI real pearls ana a few lengths OF ole
rare can afford TO laugh at the anXiou
'|'' copy Isl. And "A woman of stronl
W1'N duality can afford to d" withou
e'h"r real lace or pearls, for she viii
Fh"" '"" 10 EXPRESS herself in snow,
"''N.'h ana supple rlnbons Just ~ Mime
Ne'ami"r expressed herself In days gon,
|. uy' We have never heard that Nine
Nr'am"r's muslin gowns became
uniform and Yet she has exercised NOR,
m"u'nc" on the world of dress than per
maps any other woman except the En-
press Josephine.
N thls year Of e'acc the real Partisan
e"gante IS wiiowy creature clad II
MYSTERIOUS folds Of black lace. with