The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-06-07


- servla, the land lost to the Serbs
~ more than five centuries ago and
recovered by them after "A hard
fight with their hereditary enemies. the
Turks, and a still more bitter conflict
with their former allies. the Bulgarians.
1t was the Macedonia of Bible times. the
seat OF the empires OF Lazar and Du-
han and the scene of a bitter and In
tense racial struggle that threatened for
half century to plunge all Europe into
war.
THE suns correspondent, who has
just travelled its length and breadth
has found 1t land rich in scenic beauty
and historical associations and in re-
sources that have been neglected
through centuries of Turkish mlsrule.
The Servians are developing the coun-
try, restoring order. rebuilding the
towns and constructing highways and
railroads They ask only few years OF
peace TO transform the inhabitants into
a contented. prosperous people and to
prove to the world their right to govern
the formerly sorcly harassed land.
Skoplje. with its fine position. both
commercially and strategically, will un-
doubtedly be the most important point
of the new possession which includes n
territory almost as large as the former
state of Servia. The world knew
Skoplje best as Cskuh; but when the
conquerors came they restored its an
cient name. the one by which II was
known before Turkish times. Besides.
they may have wished tn erase the
memory OF the past bad character that
was associated with the name of Uskuh
Things were always happening in and
around the town that were not pleasant.
The reports. OF these happenings some
times got into the papers. but generally
with such vague details as to leave too
much to the Imagination.
When the bands in the race wars took
to massacrlng their rivals or when the
fiercest of Albanian tribes came down
from the bills, Uskub was always in the
sphere of danger. 1t was the centre of
widest Turkey. The writer in the days
of the Ottoman regime was refused per-
mission by the Government to go out
side the town.
"You might be killed or injured
which would be uncomfortable for you.
and would be recalled, which would be
unpleasant for me-" the Governor eX-
planned
In spite OF orders to the contrary the
writer strolled out through the dark
narrow streets few blocks from the
hotel and ran into a fezzed and heavily
Cloaked man who instantly brought
from his belt a long barrelled revolver.
Mutual explanations ended the incident
One night during the present visit in
turning a corner the writer was In an
other collision. but this time the
stranger politely touched his fez and
smillngly remarked, mo knife threats
In these days, Skoplje Is safer than
Uskub was"
The town has some $4,000 inhabitants
whose homes and shops lie on both
sides OF the swiftly flowing Vardar
There is stone embankment along both
banks of the river and a street which
the Servians intend To widen into IA
boulevard for pleasure driving. Facing
the river are some of the best business
houses. public buildings and the fine
homes of the weather. Turks. Here
too are the coffee houses. surrounded
by gardens and shaded by great trees
that must have stood for centuries,
where Skoplje drinks coffee, smokes
cigarettes by thousands and listens to
Wild Servian music played by gypsy
bands. and where on hot summer nights
hundreds wrap themselves in their
ClOaks and seek refuge from the heat
Of their little plaster wall houses.
The modern town. with the railway
station and newer shops, Is upon the
right bank. A fine old bridge, of which
the Roman foundation and ancient
Servian arches yet remain, connects it
with the older part. where the bazaar Is
situated and where most of the Turkish
population has its homes
The bazaar quarter with its hundreds
Of little wooden shops lining narrow
IL.
the old castle. In Turkish times
most of the streets We're rooted over,
but the Servlans have torn this cover
Ing away to let in the sunlight. There
Is a clatter of wooden soles over the
cobblestones, the noises of workmcn at
primitive Industries, a babel Of tongues
and the ever changing Kaleidoscope of
the colorful costumes of all the Mace
DOMAIN peoples.
In the rear of the little dark shops
OF one quarter you see the blaze of the
forgos of the iron workers: in another
you hear the continuous pounding of
the coppersmths and the hum hum of
the dcrndar as the wool worker in the
thick of cloud of dust and fakes of
wool changes dark oily mass of ma
terial into fluffy white for soft Turkish
pillows and beds.
~ INC mum Oh voices you can near
french and German in the dealings with
the foreigners and In the bargaining
ana trading with the natives as curious
mixture of tongues as ever greeted
human ears There are the Spanish
)argon of the Jews who years ago fled
10 Macedonia from southern Spain. the
Hfeek OF the money changers and silk
merchants, the Nlach OF the descendants
% inc early Roman colonists of the
baiKah peninsula, the Turkish of the