New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-11-05
@WOMANS VARIED INTERESTS
COSTUMES OF CLASSIC LINE
tn. Simple Classic Lines of These TUNES Of Crecan
Origin Are Emphasized by Broad Band trimmings
and by Loose Low-Placcd Girdes.

plotted by a noted singer or artist. the
chemise-cut gown, first worn, so us
said, by grand dame az Deauville late
last summer. was appreciated BY a
Parisienne maker Of models. That
couturier went in rather extensively
for Inconsistencies, and her rivals were
not slow In following-"not her ex-
ample" declare those rivals, because
several persons may simultaneously
have an idea-the pace set by the
grande dame. who had the courage Of
her own conviction anent what lie beau
tiful in feminine garb.
That first chemise- tunic, black
marquisette, loosely yelling blue silk
girdled satin slip, happened to greatly
become its wearer, but its successors
chiefly are belted.
Edged with Blue Ribbon Under White
Embroidery.
Most charming of the white confec-
tions is a gown whose petticost shaped
underdress of finest lace-veiled satin
is all but covered by chemise Of floss
embroidered marquisette. The upper
garment, which. although cut 70 come
high at the back OF the neck, is opened
as far as the waist at front, has edges
defined by sapphire blue ribbon run
- asrfx %
white embroidery. From the waist the
ribbon-run trimming extends as a sim
gle strip TO the lower edge OF the
chemise, which from from. centre Is a
trife sloped away toward the sides.
The all-whte embroidery, widening
as 1t progresses upward. becomes de-
sign which spreads wholly across the
bodice portion. and from the shoulders
runs to the edge of the cut-in-one caps
for the arm-tops. These caps, pre-
cisely like those of countless oldtime
chemises, overlap the tops of tucked
white net sleeves, outlined along their
outer seam from shoulder to wrist with
a two-inch wide self-ruiFle. A straight
" placed girdle of the white embroi-
dered marquisette. bordered along both
sides with the rbbon.run pattern. is
drawn halfway TO the bust above the
waist line and half TO the hips below il.
Consists Only of Petticoat and Chemise.
All that one of this seasons most
ft1 al
costumes consists of is a petticoat ani
a chemise. To be sure, the pettlcoat
is as long as any round cut indoor
skirt and the chemise is high at the
back of the neck. Moreover, it is
broadly belted. But the design of both
garments is as familiar to the pioneer
woman of the frontier forests as 1t is
to the star actress of Broadway.
Broad bands of white filet lace bor-
der the chemise cut upper section OF
an alluringly simple afternoon costume
in which any girl or very slender
young matron would look we'll. The
white satin skirt is petticoat-shaped.
untrimmed and nearly covered by the
tunic of white net finely tucked nori-
zontally. The long fine lines produced
by those tucks are accentuated by
broad bands of filet crossing the shout
ders and extending down the sides 81
the figure to the top edge of the cir
/ cular placed band.
At front these bands run straight,
but at back, near the waist line, they
point a trife. Cut-in~one sleeves are
| heightened with horizontally tucked
net to the elbow and from there half
way TO the wrist with lace band cuffs,
which fall loosely away from the fore
arms. The slightly rounded out neck
| is satin cord defined, and somewhat
below its normal line the waist is en-
, circled by a broad grdle of white
braid, whose fringed ends, loop knot
ted on the left hip, fall low against
that side of the chemise.
NO REAL EXCUSE FOR A