The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-05-10

up to date-resemble nothing so much as q riffied huff. That is. the sleeve, which reaches about half way to the elbow has two frilis, one falling over the arm. the upper extending on to the shoulder and around un- der the arm pit to give almost bolero effect The sleeve proper is puffed between these two frills, which are trimmed on the edge to match those on the skirt. If you cannot find a pattern for this sleeve experiment with shortened and widened leg 0 mutton pattern until you get the ruffied huff look. The gathering line can be made by casing with cord run through it or the gathers can be covered with line of crystal beading-or lace if you do not enjoy ripping when laundry is due.
 There is no trimming of the neck between these shoulder frills, save the soft surplice folds of the net. Tack them in place in front and at the back fasten with the smallest size ball and socket fastener.
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 Join the skirt and blouse together at the normal waist line by sewing to a heavy belt or one of the narrow boned grdles Cover the joining with | soft crush girdle of white satin This should be cut on the bias in a ten inch strip crushed or laid in loose folds to be about five and half inches deep Fasten at the back under a square two looped bow without ends. Each loop should be four and half or five inches long. The knot is crushed if the bow is loose: if it be laid in folds like the front have the knot also folded
 Some of the later models of the summer dress show trimming at the bottom as change from the bouffante hip line. dress or thls style. simple. girlish, and easily made, would develop we'll for graduating frock for girl who must have longer lines Use hne batiste or null. plain or figured, and cut over a two piece model that Is slashed on the side seams almost to the knees, the gore being cut in a U slope both front and back. This skirt is gathered slightly to the waist band and hangs in long, soft lines
 Trim all around the bottom of this skirt which may he hemmed or have a narrow facing about a half inch wide-with ruche of shadow or other soft fine lace banding. finished on both edges. From two to two and a half inches is a good width. Gather in the center or box plait and stitch on this outside of the, skirt
 The open spaces in the side are then filled in with four or five three inch ruffies of lace to match These are sewed to a shaped piece of net cut to i'll in the opening. Sew in go that the upper skirt section seems to kdI loOSeiy over these ruIHeS. Tack well, far back from the edge as can be done with out showing.
 Make bodice of the lace. put in three rrosswise rows around the body. arranged to form line squared across the front and pack. These hounces are kept scant and are caught in with the armhole of the draped upper bodice. or can be held to the shoulder by narrow line of lace or ribbon to match the girdle Drape over this kimona blouse cut in two pieces and arranged over the shoulders and brought to the waist line in a nearly straight line. This leaves the rufied lace to show in vest effect about four inches wide in front.
 Instead of bringing the backs straight from shoulder to waist. slope to form V. which is more becoming and yet keep. the square line of the neck with the rufied lace back Edge the neck side of the blouse with sAthered ruche like that used on the s,xirt proper. and trim the sleeve edges with two overlapping rufiies of the lace. These sleeves end just above the elbow, and should be loose and faring.
 Having joined the skirt and blouse to a firm belt cover with sash made from three and ! half yards of white moire ribbon tied in a short bow and long end at the middle of the back siender, straight girl will look well with one of the big Japanese bows made of Dias messaline ten inches wide and arranged Q resemble the obi of the Japaness maiden.