davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
CARDINAL FARLEY
! STILL NOT HEARD
FROM IN EUROPE
Wrote from Paris July 20 He
Intended Going to
Switzerland.

NEW YORK, Aug. Failure to
learn the whereabouts of Cardinal
Farley, who sailed from this CITY for
Rome on April 26 last, bearing the
index volume of the Catholic Ency-
elopedia, and was last heard from
while in Paris, to which city he went
after attending the Eucharistic Con-
gress at Lourdes late in July, is eaus-
ing considerable uneasiness to the
clergy and laity of the metropolitan
diocese Of the Roman Catholic
Church
1t was announced last night that
the administration of the diocese was
making every effort to get in touch
with the cardinal by cable and wire
less, but thus far none of the mes
sages has been answered.
In letter received by the Rt Rev.
Monsignor Michael J. Lavelle. from
the cardinal, dated July %, at the
Hotel Continental, Paris, Cardinal
Farley wrote he expected to leave
Paris within a few days to spend
some time in Switzerland.
A cable message was received from
Rober; s. Hudspeth, of Jersey City,
prosecutor of the pleas of Hudson
County, stating that he, with his
wife, was safe in London. ]. Merritt
Lane, Jersey City lawyer, also had
q message from his wife, announcing
that she had arrived at st. Peters,
burg and hoped to sail on the Rotter-
dam, of the Holland Line,
from Rotterdam on August 20. He
sent message to her that he had
sent money on the Tennessee, and
advised her to stay in st. Petersburg.
Superintendent Snyder, of the Jer-
sey City schools, stated that If rela.
tives of Jersey City teachers stranded
in Europe would give him what in
formation they had he would request
government aid for them in the name
Of the Board of Education.
Mr.. and Mrs. August Metzler OF
Hackensack, were to have started
back ere this, and relatives here can.
not even get transportation to them.
They are in Germany
Mrs. M. Grund and daughter Mil
dred, of New Milford, N J., and Mrs,
NJ. Gully and son Edwin, of James
street, Hackensack, are also in Ger
many.
Miss Gabrielle Wells, teacher, of
Hackensack, is somewhere in Nor
way.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
MARSE|LLA|SE ON
BIG GERMAN LINER
vaterIand's French Walters
Sing in Opposition to Or
chestra's 'Wacht am Rhein.'

HoBoKEN, Aug 1.-THE French
walters of the Ritz-Carlton restau-
rant on board the German liner Va
terland have just been dismissed as
the result of a remarkable incident
which occurred last Sunday.
When the ships musicians played
THE Watch on the Rhine" and GOD
Save Our Emperor Francis Joseph
the French walters began singing and
whistling the "Marseillaise."
1t is said that one of the walters
German who had passed many
years in France, when asked for his
card emitting him to board the ship,
whistled the "Marseillaise" into the
face of the officer of the watch.
This man, too, has been discharged
The Hamburg American lines pier
as well as the Vaterland, is guarded
by dozens of armed men, who allow
nobody aboard except those present.
ing passes issued by the company.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
FAMILY STARVES
DESPITE $4,000
LETTER OF CREDIT
5000 Russian Refugees in Avn
full Plight on German ISL
and in Baltic.

LONDON, Aug. THE Berlin cor
respondent of the Daily Telegraph,
who has reached Stockholm, sends
the following dispatch:
THE scene witnessed at Sassnitz a
famous watering place on the east
coast of the German island of Rugen,
in the Baltic sea, baff1ed all descrip-
ton. Some 5000 Russian refugees
turned out on the quay were left to
struggle for access to a steamer
which was reached by only single
gangway. The vessel was obliged to
sail, leaving 1900 of them in despair,
believing that the last chance to re-
turn to their country had gone.
"One family had letter of credit
for 10000 rubles (s1o,000), but were on
the verge of starvation. Some of the
refugees were half-mad with hum
ger, thirst and lack OF sleep"
The correspondent says that har-
rowing stories have been told by
refugees who are arriving at Stock
holm by the thousands. Many of
them were moved about by train for
four or five days without any idea
as to what was being done for them
Foreigners taking the cure at Wies-
baden and Kissingen were glad to
crowd the fourth-class cars in their
desire to get away.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
New York Socialists
Plan Demonstration
as Protest to War

NEW YORK, Aug. Under the
direction of the Socialist party a
great war demonstration is billed for
New York Workers from every
country involved in the European
war will be on hand to protest the
slaughter of their kinsmen. The most
powerful German trades unions will
parade to the square in body, those
directing arrangements for the
demonstration declare.
Among the speakers will be Arturo
Carott, Socialist member of the
italian parliament; Maurice Hilquitt
and Cornelius Leblanc, Irish journal
ist
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
u. s. PRODUCTS
IN BIG DEMAND
European Countries Place Con-
tracts for Many Kinds of
Merchandise.

NEW YORK, Aug. THE Euro
tured products started yesterday in
large volume, weeks ahead of the
earliest moment expected by the var
ious lines of export trade, according
to statements mace last night by
marine insurance underwriters.
When the news of the activity of
German cruisers along the Atlantic
seaboard reached the Wall Street
district in the early afternoon the I'M
derwriters Immediately raised tnelr
cargo rates to 26 per cent, but that
did not seem to exert deterrent ef-
feet on the demand for insurance.
Every line of business pressed for
insurance during the day. and little
fault was found with the rates SO
long as insurance could be obtained
on any vessels aside from those fly
ing the German flag. Shippers Of
food stuffs were the most lnsIslent
and it was said that new business
was mostly in evidence. AT the same
time those who had contracted
months ago TO deliver canned goods
and other supplies on the other side
their obligations, for the sake of bust
ness honor and also for the reason
that they know that other large or
ders are bound to follow.
One large insurance broker with
offices In William street said that he
had been greatly surprised by the
diversity of manufactured products
offered for shipment yesterday. Cot
ton goods even, he said. were wanted
in France, as well as ready made
clothing and a hundred other classes
of goods
prom what I have been able to
gather in my talks with prospec-
tive shippers today" he said, i'm
porters in London, Paris and Other
European centres and agents of the
European governments here were
aware months ago of the possibility
of war this summer and proceeded
to put out their lines for American
goods. Many of the orders now In
the hands of Americans, II appears
to me, were placed with the idea that
war would be in progress at the
time of the closing of the contracts
but there was confidence that ship
ments would be made. There seems
every reason for believing that the
European importers got the idea as
long ago as three months that there
would be a great demand for Ameri-
can products and that Great Britain
and other countries would exert
every means possible toward safe
guarding shipments from the United
States.
while the shippers are insistent
and are willing to pay almost any
rate of insurance, there is a genera
feeling that many of the European
governments will find ways of re
funding the war risks on cargoes."
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
Swedish Tramp Steamer Otta
Sails With Canadian Grain

MONTREAL, Aug. with the
yellow cross of Sweden floating at her
masthead, the grain tramp steamer
Otta cleared from Montreal for Liver
pool today, her hold full of Canadian
grain for the British market
The Otta is the first of the grain
steamers to risk a transatlantic pas
sage since war was declared. She is
depending upon the neutrality of her
flag being respected. Her tonnage is
2,036.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
Barney" Martin Dying

ATLANTIC HIGHLANDS, Aug. Z
Barney Martin, formerly State
senator from New York, who for
the last twenty-five years has had
a summer home here, is sinking rap
Idly, and his family are now pre-
pared for his death at any time. He
has been i'll here for several months
and frequently has been on the point
of death, but managed to rally.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1914-08-07
Dominion Government
to Watch Rise of Prices

OTTAWA, Aug Tt was an
nounced last night that the govern
ment had decided to take action
should any attempt be made unduly
to enhance prices of commodities in
Canada during the war.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11

tie bottom ;s also gathered loosely. il
sach way as to give the effect cf 4
uisd pu1, Two broad pieces OF more
'E.'k Of the sgne shade ere arangei
over the hips like deep, hat sashes.
Nhey a,e crossed at the back end
left 10 hang with loay rointed cts
which are finished with silk tasse!s.
The concluding item Of the scheme
comprises a snart little jacket of the
,aeirc, the basque cut sherr,y away IN
the front and drawn into polnt low
down &C the back beneath large bow
Underneath the Jacket was worn the
ubiquitous soft little transparent blouse
of tilleul colored nlnon over vellum
tinted lace, the y-shaped decolletage
finished with deep frills of the tiln.est
black tulle, and in the belt was tucked
a little bouquet Of deep pink rosebuds.
The little pantnlettes, those quaint
hand embroidered bits of muslin that
show four or FIVE inches below n full
frillcd skirt, are charming; whether
they will have much vogue 1t is I'M
possible, at this early date, to say. 1t
Is radical change IN dress, and al
though the idea OF course Is not new,
being a revival Of an early Victorian
mode, II is old enough to appear novel.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11

and is sufficiently smart to have 70
ceived the approval of the most ele-
gantly gowned monddineS. The plaid
employed In the model is in green and
blue with yellow stripe. The back
Of this model has caused much com
ment. It 10 an instance showing tadt
in some models the backs Of gowns are
more elaborate than the fronts. Note
the sweep 0f the plain green cloth
draping, as 1t energies from beneath
the little pointed seni-htting coat. \
novel idea Is portrayed In the taf'eta
ribbon which is drawn through the
back of the coat and fastened in the
front of the waist in a large smart
bow
Stripes and plaids are even mere
used than predictions led us to think
they would be. They are used fcr the
trimmings Of coats, for the coat Itself.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11

We On tA,s siLo of the Atlan.lc arc
still rather reluctant fe atopt such
wholly charged liggo as tsis sudden
ampusu1e of the figure, the cr.ro!ila
skirt, unqucst,cnaSly effects. These
li,tle rarte'et.es are so quantity pretty
In their dcirtinsss tsat they do lot in
any wsy s.cet cur sensiIiit.es. Nlsy
are =, ,sst,v 20 0e recommended to be
WORE wnsn darc.ng, for the vearer
car -r9vc nth g-sG.:: sese tnan if
tempered with q M gig skirt that
fa%.s to ne ankles.
IN Fig. rr, showing here an en-
tl-eiy oifferens silhouette from the
frilled model WITH which pannlettes
are usually associated. The gown Is
in rose taeeta. The fullness of the
silk or The skirt Is quantity drawn In
with n garland Of pink roses. Frcm
beneath the taffeta falls superposed
fiounce of exquisite lace, gray net
foundation woven with silver threads,
under the lace and falling few inches
below, is an underskirt Of rose colored
chiffon-then come the little panta-
lettes; these are made of the finest Of
cream lace, encircled around the azsles
with wreath Of tiny pink rosebuds.
Another distinctive feature Of this
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11

OF woman, and accessories have been
launched this season to harmonlzc with
every woman's particular personality.
The woman who Is short Of the aver
age height by several inches and who
ls, moreover, inclined to spread unduly
from side to side, cannot wear the
samc as her tall, slim sister; who alorl
can only hope to carry off successfully
creations Boosting three or four decker
skirts of one or two materials, sur
mounted In all probability by coat OF
Il third differing fabric.
Perhaps the most typical silhouette
can offer you is that Of an elegant New
Yorii woman who Is noted not only for
her exquisite gowns, but her manner
cf wearing them. Tall ana very slim,
her slEuous movements CORY oying Tho
of bonelessness, she wears
q costume OF tllleul colored tafreta, that
beautiful shnde OF the unripe line. IT,,
skirt is draped In an entirely new mar
ner. 1t somewhat resembles a Turkish
skirt, but upon closer investigation It
Ia found that the effect Is achieved by
means OF clever shlrrlngs. Il is very
full and presents double puffed effect
above the knees. The material around
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11

for the undersklrts. One coat reach
Ing scarcely to the hips is in red, blue
and green Roman stripes. 'shis is
Horr With q plain blue cloth skirt. An
other sulphur colored costume hns the
large sailor collar and wide cuffs in
brown and red stripes. On many OF
tie French tal!or-mades the deep
SQUIRE collar or the monks Eood IS
dsed. The hoods ere finished with
heavy nasscrcnt2rie tazsels.
Tortoise Shell Cor1hs Are Smart.
We are not apt to give credit TO An
daUsia fcr much of orr changing sar-
toria; Inspirations, and vet it is from
The sonLo!cnt-ayel senOritas of Seville
Gnd the olive tlnted cequettcs Of CGCiz,
that we have adopted tho present iIoIe
of tAe high rolling head-dress =. .ash$
with q spreading tortoise shci! comb
vhicE is Ecw so much the vogue
From them also comes tho pretty
mode Of wearing rose tucked. over
one ear and the graceful rnantiila
which is this season draped, shame
fashion, pendant from the back Of
many Of our sleeveless evening cor
sages, acting as q sort of framework
for the bare shoulders which rise bold
ly from the short bodice bcneath.
TO the mntadors and picado-s of the
Madrid bull-riug we owe the craze for
gilt and silver trimming which has
obsessed Us for SO long now. and Also
the jaunty bolero and broad swathcd
sash which figures on many of our new
models, also the chenille fringe which
trims our more elaborate out of door
wraps 50 plenteously, is Of absolutely
Spanish origin. 1t is, moreover. from
the grnndee of Granada that we nave
filcbed the basic idea oe the long "aDc,
which have already mentioned, whci
reaches to the heels and which IS
swung over one shoulder. This is caii-
ed the Neapolitan cape BY son:e ccl-
tourieres, but il was primerilr won
by the Spanish troubato2r who nightly
serenaded the lacy C, .:i3 heart On her
balcony.
The rejuvenatlon of the ornamental
comb, always an effective cdGilion lo
the coifurc, has been 5rcrGls .bout
through the new S0-caiie' '..rmcn
method of arranging the -. md
many OF us are ransackiDg greet grand
mothers trunk in the attic for Tie won
derful high, broad, carved tortoise shell
comb which spread, fan fashion, flcm
almost the tip of one rosy car to The
other when she treaded the measure CT
he stately minuet or minced through tbe
Roger de Coverley hundred years ago.
This is the simon pure article Of snan-
ish manufacture and has an ELEGANCE
OF form and grace of line hard 10 ind
In its spurious offspring, which is IS
often developed in the demi-blonde-a
tsrlsian favorlte-or one CT TIE many
zones OF amber, as in the rarer tortoise.
In fact. there seems to be a prcdilec-
ton for dark amber over ether sub
stances for hair ornaments at present.
and many of the combs and rins one
sees are set with colored semi-prccious
jewels to match or harmonize with the
color Of the dress one is wearing. An
other shell which IS becoming high in
favor for hair ornaments and which is
also reminiscent of the enc time beau
ties of the Alcazar is mothcr-of.pearl.
whose opalescent, changing TINS show
up most beautifully in blue black hair.
the hair belonging, however, more TO
the Celt or Latin than to The saxon.
4.a 6Llu,<.an
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11

model Is the necklace. Following the
vogue for a lavish display Of beads on
evening gowns, there is a necklace
composed of strands of rose pink and
crystal beads decorating the waist 4
Tango Pantalettss.
With the new "cross over dancing
frocks, whose graceful folds are so
cunnlngly arranged as to reveal no
opening, when In reality 1t exists up as
far as even the waist line itself, is
worn a single undergarment, called the
Tango pantalettes. These are shaped
very much after the fashion of those
worn by the odalisques of the harem.
being quite baggy directly below the
hips and ending shortly below the
knee, where they are held In place by
a garter, jeweled or plain, as fancy
may dictate. They are attached high
waistedly to q silk brassiere, forming
one piece garment, aud are made Of
various fabrics, such as crepe de Chine
or silk chinolse. One of the most fas-
clnatlng models is cut from q cloth OF
gold and has been designed to wear
under an ethereally lovely dancing
dress Of ruffled pink tulle. When walk
ing or sitting there was not the slight
est hint Of the existence Of such an
undergarment on the figure of the
wearer, and IL was only when in the
maGes Of the complicated figures of the
dance that an eyaneseent gleam of gold
flashed forth from among the swirling
draperies.
The sketches which Illustrate my ar
tlcle portray the typical silhouette for
1914. In Fig. note the trim ilt of the
skirt on the hips and the flare given to
the rleated Vaudyke fOunce, the tight
effect at the ankles, and the long
sleeves coming down to the wrists.
Black tafteta is the medium used for
this gown. A black silk braid about
ten inches in width forms perfect. fit
ting hip yoke and is again used on The
waist, giving to the gown a smart,
corseet effect. The upper sleeve in
blacl; chiffon is fairly wide, while the
lower sleeve, in white net, like the
yoke and frills on the waist, cllngs to
the arm. A smart touch of color Is
introduced in the black satin sash. The
ends are embroidered in peacock blue
and gold and edged with a black Jet
fringe.
a charming skirt drapery and appli-
cation of the Eastern sash Is shown in
Fig. 3. The gown is in taffeta Of O
deep aubergine color, the deep egg
plant shade which Is so rich in its va
rying depths. The sash is in faded
rose embroidered in black black satin
faces the skirt. The dainty waist un-
der the little bolero is In two shades of
nubergine colored chiffon This curl
GUS color called "auberglne" is very
popular IN Paris. 1t is that of the egg
plant in It's va.icus Stages OF ripeness
and unrlpeness ,rsis shade used for
the model has a glnklsh rose tinge In
some Of the Hgnts the ehlmmering taf-
feta rejects.
Stripe and Plsids.
How many there were who deemed
that. the vogue for plaid and plain ma
terlal confined would have but a
brief life, as popularity would kill 1t.
TailOr-ma3es en- this order are smarter
than ever. This combination in its lat
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11
Stripe and PIsids.

How many there were who deemed
that.the vogue for plaid and plain ma
terlal confined would have but a
brief life, as popularity would kill 1t.
Tailor-ma9es. en- this order are smarter
than ever. This combination in its lat
est guise as sAcwn In tle French robe
dc tGi!leRr, Fig. 4, is quite Charming
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11
4 a I. ITl{ .hl coming y, Ens.

VA 7 It'll .ht coming c. Eas-
,ss=:==lN-Ase Ter the acceptance Of
4 "a. 6,gS tce new silhouette Is
N( }TgIfA4 es accomplished fact.
'y.sX 5sas Ii ny opinion this 1914
N ~ Sfring Silhouette was
y, ~. is9a;sfsisa i Il #, ]. l. ;sSs '5s
shade stsrt, and it was only to be cx-
1ectsl taat tbs increased fullness
1rourd tSe Lirs YOU'D result In the
rourss of tins In the inevitable swing
Df the pendulum; In other words,
Wa pioneers oi fas6ion were not slow
TO SEQ the eyoldtcns capable of being
worked cut on the quaint outstanding
tu,ic, ana the hard straight line of this
mode has given way before the greater
grace OF draper!es to attain the pro.
Go'anced elops upwards from the hips
anS the snbsequers drawing In at the
aLkies. ] am stiil making an absolute
fgnic. bvt the qrettiest, softest thing
Imaginable reminiscent OF flower pet
ais.
Viewing the styles IN mass, there
Is no deRying the Impression LET is e
supc:cbuSdance of detail. Models
haye bssa created TO suit every type
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1914-04-11

model Is the necklace. Following the
vogue for lavish display Of beads on
evening gowns, there Is necklace
composed Of strands of rose pink and
crystal beads decorating the waist Il
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-01-13
HIGHWAY To
MOBILE FROM
HERE SHORTLY
NATIONAL ASSOCIATION ASKS
SECRETARY HENDERSON TO
OUTLINE ROuTE-MlGLION Be
HIND MOVEMENT.

It is the opinion OF Secretary Lee
land J. Henderson of the Pensacola
Commercial Association that il is the
intention Of the National HIGHWAYS
Association 10 begin work on the con-
structiOn of the branch of the highway
through Pensacola to Mobile at an
early date.
Mr.. Henderson received a letter on
Monday from O. w. Gruening, man.
ager OF the northwestern organizat ton
department Of the National Highways
Association, asking for q complete list
Of the towns along the route from
Pensacola to Mobile. He also request
ed Mr.. Henderson to suggest the best
route through Baldwin county, and to
furnish the association with the names
of the most ardent good roads advo-
Gates In this section. Secretary Hen
derson is of the opinion that as soon
as the desired information has been
furnished arrangements will be made
by the national organization to begin
the work of esta bHshing the highway.
Although no government aid has, as
yet, been secured for this great ma
tionaI highway work, about twenty
millions of dollars has been raised by
the association by securing donations
from corporations, individuals, cities.
etc.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-01-13
REBELS HAVE CHARGE
OF THE ENTIRE DISTRICT

Presltiio, Jan. 12-Since nearly all
the federals who were in Ojfnaga have
fled to the United States General Vii
la said he would leave only few SOL
1iers on the border near here. At
Chihuahua he expects to have a force
OF ten thousand men from which to
draw in attacks on ZecateCas, Aguas
Cafentes and Guadalajara
THE defeat of the Northern dfvi-
sion OF the federal army leaves us
concerned only with the south" said
General villa. 1.-The few remaining
federal garrisons on the west and east
coasts were driven out bv rebel
forces now surrounding them. Mexico
Citv always has been my destination.
The little village of Ojinaga is a
wreck from it's recent bombardment,
but General villa ordered It put in
condition. According to General Or
tega no military executions have oc-
CURED. Only 1000 rebels occupy the
houses. Others are scattered over the
country on forging expeditions. About
3 600 already have been sent toward
Chihuahua.
Major McNamere. commanding the
United States troops. has received
orderS from Brigadier General PliSS at
San Antonio to remove to the nearest
railroad station all the federal SOL
diers and civilians now being. held in
Preside. The crowd of more than
1900 re<uSsss and soldiers, viii so 10