New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-25
WHAT THE BUYERS
WILL LOOK AT TOMORROW
The usual list of buyers in town
will be published tomorrow morning.
FASHION AND TRADE NOTES.

Oscar Trebitsch, the fashion director
Of the Oppenheimer 6 Trebitsch Com
pauy, publishers Of "The Leader in
STYLES" and "L'Elegance Persistence
who is looked upon in the garment
manufacturing trade as one OF the
leaders in all matters pertaining to
styles. was asked by Tribune repre-
sentative. What is your opinion o.
the coming seasons styles"
"Let me tell you" he announced, in
the first place, that the styles for this
country this year are not made in Eu-
rope. and il is up 20 the ingenuity Of
the American experts 20 create pleas
ing STYLES. More or less the styles lot
this country have always followed the
instructions given from Paris, but had
to be Americanized 10 bring about the
distinctive, world-known American
style.
at cannot be denied that the Euro
pean complications have some influence
on the styles for the spring Military
cut of coats and suits will be strong
feature, and concentrations Of milf
tary trapping order will be IN vogue.
Gilt, nickel and gun metal buttons VIII
be stylish as trimming. The latest
developments in the style of suits are
fancy bottoms, in some cases shorter
in front and back and longer on the
side. This style is somewhat OF the
tendency to having some ripple effect
on the side This feature is very often
combined with high wasted effects, not
giving the regular belt, but simply by
novel cut effects.
"The separate coats have the ten
dency toward the pointed front and
somewhat shorter back. This also ap-
plies to seashore or covert coats. In
these cases the coat may be about 81
inches in the back and from 3s 20 40
inches in the front; very loose; full
fare toward the bottom. The collars to
be with long roll effect, in such
manner TO be able TO button high to the
neck.
"In skirts, circular skirts, also gored
effects, f-e coming in very strongly,
and these are made in such way that
they should fare at the bottom.
Umbrella flare is the very latest style.
These skirts, made in sheer fabrics,
are often trimmed with folds Of silk,
satin or taffeta on the bottom Of the
skirt Very short skirts Will be the
style for spring.
"The style tendency in dresses is
toward the revival of the crinoline
period Ii has a fitted bodice. with a
full faring circular on umbrella skirt:
The waists should show draping of
collars over the shoulders, the body to
be fitted i'm many cases with pointed
fronts, the sleeves three-quarter. The
skirt, as mentioned above, 10 be full
fare and wide on the bottom, and
trimmed with folds and shirring 70
give it q soft appearance.
"Subdued shades will be prevailing.
Grays and bisque will lead. Black and
white, putty, field gray, battleship
gray, Belgian blue, Labrador blue,
navy, black and sage green will be the
stylish colors. As TO material for coats
and suits. coverts in plain and striped
effects, poplins, eabardines and French
serges are the fashions demands. For
silk dresses poplins. failles, chiffon,
tafTetas and moires in striped effects
will be the prevailing feature. For
cotton dresses voiles, Palm Beach
cloth, pques, leno effects and plain
white materials are dominating
The publishers Of Novelty Styles"
one Of the leading American publica-
tions for the manufacturing trade.
give the following suggestions of
waists and dresses for the coming
spring and summer season. These are
for the harmony Of trimmings, ma
terials, etc:
BLOUSE of lowered crepe de chine.
with a standing lace collar extending
only around the back; the neck cut
very low, with cream vestee. On the
shoulders are large net ruffies tied with
black velvet ribbon; long sleeves, with
net ruffes.
"Waist Of white crepe dc chine, with
gamboCe colored sailor collar Of silk.
The neck is V cut. with a large gam
boee colored bow, and has piping
around the collar, the corners forming
a triangular design, and tiny pearl but
tons"
what do you think Of the color
scheme OF our present day modes -
was asked by The Tribune represent
THAT is where the American design
ers fall short" was the answer. They
produce costumes that do not harmon
ize. they trim a model with colors that
are perfectly hideOus. ] have seen cos
tunes that were exceedingly pretty
spoiled by non-contrasting trimmings.
Recently J designed the costumes Tor
the play Miss Daisy by Philip Bar
tbolomae. and II was certainly pleasing
for me 10 hear Mr.. Bartholomae ask
each one Of the dozen young women 10
call at the studio, so that | could
sketch the particular lines and make
the creations for the individual need
of the stars. The result was that the
/ +birtv-three costumes | created were
not only i'm harmony individually. but
when they were all displayed IN
the evening scene produced wonder
/ ful effect.
"Some Of the materials, trimmings,
color scheme, etc, used IN the play
were a costume Of cream tafeta, with
white net RULES over the skirt and a
Prussian blue bodice; IT had pearl or
uaments on the shoulders and gold
laced cane effect on the back.
"Niss Wheaton wore costume OF
ncacb chiffon, with an extremely vide
skirt end a large net yelling falling
over the entire front. II was caught
M the waist and the shoulders with
tinv iet ornaments, and the skirt was
scailoped and trimmed with velvet
bows. allowing a little lace irllling to
show at the bottom
In discussing the textile trades and
STILES for women's wear for the comins
season NJ Bucnsbaum and !. A. MeKslh'