The Hood River glacier. (Hood River, Or.) 1889-1933, 1914-03-19
CANTON AS THE
SHRINERS SAW 1T
February 10. 1914

miles nearer the equator. IL was
relief from the heat of Manila, bu
after four days Of il, we long to b
aboard ship again, homeWsrd bound
We cabled for hotel accommodation
from Manila, but had the misfortun
to address a hotel which was filled ul
so we Joined in the grand rush for
place 10 sleep. About 80 were unsSl
to get place to sleep in Europea
quarters, so we took the night boat 70
Canton. arriving early the next morn
ing. We had arranged with Cooks 70
the trip, including guides, so We foun
the latter waiting for US after break
fast on the boat at Canton.
To attempt TO describe Canton is al
impossibility. There is no place in tn
world like it. 1t is probably the mos
congested aud dirtiest city on the fac,
of the globe. Most of US can still
smell it, and have lost our appetites
Yet they tell us Canton is greatly i'm
| proved over a dozen years ago The
no longer eat rats, cats and dogs, bu
the heads. feet and entrails Cs fowl.
are still to be had in the meat shops
and many other meat cuts which
have never seen exposed for sale in tn,
| United States, of curious but not (tC
usl appetizing shapes or odors.
The only means of transportation il
the city of Canton is by sedan chairs
There is not a wheeled vehicle of any
kind, nor horse, COW or OK to draw
it. The streets are too narrow anC
crooked TO admit of passage except or
foot or by means of the sedan chairs.
So we packed into chairs, with a guide
for every half dozen persons. Three
coolies to each chair, aud four for the
heavy weights. We started out with
three apiece. but after going a short
distance and stopping at a shop, we
heard great cOmmotiOn outside, the
coolies gathering and gesticulating
fiercely around the guide. He informed
US that there was labor strike, and
that two of US must have four men to
each chair, which would cost US 20
cents, Mexican, more for the day. We
stood for the raise and the strike was
declared off.
We were taken to first one place of
interest, then another, winding through
maize of streets which wound around
like a snake through a dark Jungle.
The streets were mostly from five to
10 feet wide, while they would occa-
siOnally narrow down until we could
reach out our hands and touch both
walls. The streets are mostly paved
with an uneven stone tagging, so
there is no mud to speak of, but Just
an i'll smelling slime. On each side are
the tiny shops, with the entire front
open to the street. The whole family
tend shop. except the babies. Those
unable to walk are strapped to the
back of the mother, those older tod
ding around the floor of the shop or in
the street, rolling out of the way of
the countless thousands who swarm the
narrow alleys in miraculous manner.
How the chair men managed to thread
their way through or find their way
must ever remain a mystery. They
keep up constant yelling to clear the
way, and the pedestrians simply slide
to one side or flatten themselves
against building while we brush by.
| think | would be as reasonably GER
tain to reach shore if placed in the
middle of the ocean in a small boat,
compass oF provisions. as to
find my way out of Canton if lost there
alone. The streets were laid out 4, 900
years ago and were placed crooked on
purpose, and the shops set unevenly
and at angles with the streets, so that
if the devil should ever find the way
IN, he could not get out again and
would perish. don't believe the devil
was ever foolhardy enough to make
the attempt.
was told that Canton had a sewer
system, but that it was only sufficient
to drain the streets, and in the event
IF heavy rain it choked up and the
streets were awash. Well, if there is
a sewer, it is so arranged as to carry
)ff none of the filth of two million peo-
ole, for it was all there. 1t is said
hat the farmers come in from the ad-
acent country every morning and
larry off in buckets what is accumu-
ated for them during the day by the
'ity residents. This is carefully mixed
With water and spread upon the onion,
ettuce, asparagus and other vegetable
Jeds. Most of the ladies in our party
rave quit eating vegetables.
All burdens are carried in bamboo
ilings or baskets, suspended from each
md of a slender pole swung across the
houlders. Thousands of men, women
md children go on a swinging trot
through the streets with a pole across
he shoulders carrying everything from
wo buckets of water to brick house
n sections.
While Uany contrive to live as they
lid 1000 years ago. still some changes
ire going on. The que has entirely
disappeared. The women of quality
low allow their feet to grow, and while
many old and middle aged women can
,e seen painfully hobbIing along upon
leformed. misshapen stumps encased
II baby shoes, the younger ladies,
laintily clad in delicately tinted silks,
wear beautifully embroidered shoes of
latural size. The general manner of
living, however, is the same. They
i've the same and on the same ground
hat their ancestors first owned in the
ity 1000 years before the tar in the
asst guided the wise men to the place
# our Savlor's nativity.
Canton is noted for its ivory carving,
wood carving, silk embroideries, metal |
works, etc. A factory" is tiny
hop where an individual continues the
work. of his forefathers in cunning
of certain article. If |
e is prosperous he may employ one or
half dozen men. Generally it is the |
nembers of bis family. The boy is
tarted in perhaps before he is over six
ears old, and he works at the trade
ntil failing eyesight, disease or old
ge cOmpels him to reIinquish his place
0 successor. The ivory carver works
ut mt trvels of ingenious designs with
he accuracy of a machine. The metal
yorker produces jewelry of curious and
ltricate patterns, or immense vases
nd ornaments for the palaces of the
'ealthy. The tools are crude and sim
lie. The cabinet maker will hold a
tick with his feet while he saws it or
uts a mortise. But few nails are
sed, nearly everything put together
18th mortise, wooden pegs or glue,
tting the pieces with an accuracy not
xcelled by the most perfect machine.
Frequent fires have destroyed most
the ancient buildings, but two gates
nd some of the wall of the old walled
ty remain intact after the typhoons