The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-10-11

derived from branch establish
menss But for these useful in
Nations the great Faris dressmskers
"a miiliners would have found them
N.Y. faced by serious difficulty and
beir Clients. especially those who dwell
me United States. might have been
Without new models for fan and winter
ma RArfs itself has been in great danger
uDiness was fer the moment brought
= something Ike standstill But the
o4 dressnaalsers and tailors did not
k4sTrupt their work. Hardly any Of
Mr. workweTnen were dasnijsse and
~ new fail and winter models were
hOSn tn the branch establishments
Dero ut Biarritz and across the Chan
81 IN london. Everything was per
ct1y organized and since this is al all
kDee dead season In Paris no serious
Daet has taken place in the world Of
Tess.
~ course the heads Of THE, famous
& tua de la PAX establishments have
1em put TO enormous expense. They
I've shouldered their responsibilities
5neAvely and one and all they have done
E&heir best 20 avoid Inconvenience to
their clients or 10 their workpeople.
They have kept going in a wonderful
AAnner and now they are reap!ng their
EAWMrd. for the branch establishments
G1o doing a fire business and orders for
E&he new models are being executed
LILY.
N EuMe Of the rev restaurant cloaks are
E5arely beautiful in material and in de-
kM1En. In several Of my recent articles
III have indicated that great deal OF
#skIyet will be worn this winter-rich
~ velvet. supple chiffon velvet, Liberty
EeeeiYeteen, &c. &c. The mantle ! have
sektched this week is a Redfern model
The material is chiffon velvet In a
Eoaicious shade of raynes gray and the
#QTfAp is lined throughout with sea green
E1&Inon. The cloak Itself Is very large
End yoinminous II iii q circular design;
8Bun4 OF those picturesque wraps which
rvs snch splendid effect when thrown
ack over 81 chair in restaurant or an
perA box
Evening wraps are now regarded rs
tDfDperties They form part OF superb
kMpecfacie. Clever women use them in
B3ast the same way that a sensational
&pcrtrait painter uses a velvet curtain
n produee given effect.
# These circular cape wraps will re-
snain fashionable all through the winter.
CApes OF this order are no longer gem
Arally worn in the street unless for
4 driving, but for theatres and restau-
1ants they are immensely popular.
n Some OF the new evening wraps are
parity covered with gorgeous en-
shroidery. It Ia once again considered
B Miserable that women should glitter.
Quantities of very small paillettes and
heads are massed together in the new
ombroideries, but II is considered Of the
first Importance that the trimmings
/ Should be exquisitely fine
Gone is the day when machine made
ssna5Ilette embroidery, which gave a sort
E1k nlapdash effect. was considered pos
An1hla. This will be q season of half
|fonas In more senses than one over
Sknre In Europe neutral tinted materials
Eu1il be largely chosen because so many
&nhmilies are in mourning, but In any
$3.50 we should have enjoyed hall tone
@w1AAon.
People have grown tired OF Russian
Hlniiet color schemes badly reproduced
S4he artistic instinct which dwells IN
2S7nxlnH Of US. though we SO often drive II
S3nck into obscurity. cannot be long
s31nfed For a season. perhaps two,
|SS1eople VIII accept eccentric color
Trhemes and violent harmonies which
AnrA absolutely devoid of true mea ming
nut it is inevitable that the day VIII
&nme when these false eccentriciies
sarOw firesome and even offensive
31 very famous painter once said
Essf. sOririnalite voulue u eXlstc pas. -
SS1Ie est voulue ellie devient nne con-
ss~Antion.' And this liz absolutely true
I IphA originally ~ Leon BRkst is not
sSIr0r4ginaiite voulue" 1t Is an origin
Saifty which belongs 10 The man ana 20
Mo school be has founded.
M ~ the Rakst color schemes there ~
xxi6aanty of splendid meaning. lie knows
vlat he wants and what he means
very different is the copyist who hinss
~ few crude colors together and assures
ewnss that Il Is tres Ballet Russo.
ADpreciation Of the modern Russian
achoul of paiutllg has 70 he acquired
*f1n the other hand. almost every one
ErAn appreciate and feel the charm Of
seleyerly blended pastel tints. This Is
4 Ehy We arrive, again and again at
|saeasou of soft eolors and neutral tints.
sHSrhis is why he subtle pastel colors
4 neyer fail 70 make direct appeal 10
the heart.
M Many of the more elaborate visiting
md restaurant gowns Of the coming
winter will be expressed IN soft gray,
\ IN blue. velvet. A immense quantity
i ar black velvet Will be used for dresses
and for nantes. and pure white velvet
VIII be chosen for dinner gowns when
ssexpNnse does not have To- be considered.
sssi nave seen really lovely evening gowns
SNaA6e entirely OF pearl gray mirror vel
Ns1of and trimmed with narrow bands
ES& able on the corsage and tunic dra-
EF4es.
M On one of these models there was
#X length OF fms silver embroidery ar
anged on one side OF the decoilete cor
|kS9A and an effective sash made OF
40 Mar bs p