The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-05-24
Mourning Wear for Summer.
By JANE BARTON.

propriate for a story on summer mourn- ing
 Black will naturally be your first consid- eration. Before generalizing l would like to say cheap !" black is ugly. Get fewer clothes, but get them of good materials Inferior black goods are a poor bargain. as black soon turns rusty. even at the best.
 The suit is ones first need. If you can afford two have cloth suit of fine serge and be careful in buying all black mate rial that it is not blue black. gray, or of a brownish cast As it is impossible to give ways of making in a comprehensive talk on mourning needs I shall defer definite plannings to some later day. It is usually wiser to buy this cloth suit. as if it is your hrst time in mourning it will be needed hur- riedly. Select one stylish in line. but with out trimming save collars cuffs. and pos- sibly buttons of dull mourning silk or crape. 1T past your first youth do not choose too exaggerated a model
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 For wearing with the cloth suit. and 1t can also do duty with the silk suit. have blouse of dull crepe de chine For almost all ages-unless one is stout-these are made this season with raglan sleeve, turnover pointed collar, and three quarters or long sleeve. Such a blouse could be made from about two yards of forty inch material with naf yard of forty inch crape for collar and cuffs. The latter may be omitted and the material trimmed with corded edges used instead. This is made by running soft cotton cords through stitched castings on the article itself or the cording cal be made and sewed on as facing or set between the doubled portions of the cuff or collar.
 For a dressier suit have three piece one or armhre, faille. dull chiffon tafYeta or any or the distinctly mourning silks Avoid those with conspicuous weave. Such suit may have folds of crape from an inch to three lncnes wide edging the tunic or tunics. col lar and revers of crape and turnback cuffs on the jacket-which should be of one of the modified Eton models For coolness cut the blouse on loose kimono or ra plan ,iras with rolling collar of the crape, leaving an opening in front for a vest of net reach. ing to the waist line or girdle Wear net frills in the sleeves
 Where one cannot have d cloth .na .,,,. suit the cloth will be more seryicesble 1T you must consider the fall wear, otherwise select the silk one for coolness.
 iou VIII need at least one afternoon dress another for evening. and two standby gown.
 TOT the afternoon frock there are lovely new SILK poplins. and fine nuns yelling in the soil SILK and wool mixtures. Cooler is gown of habutai or crepe de chine. Tba naputai is spotproof. If one can afford if tbo haputai makes the incest kind of a hack gown with the crape for more dressv wear canton crape has a more decided waa va ara also makes charming summer gowns Tt takes about five yards of forty inch n,.ts-,., ana seven or thirty inch for an average .,x.
 For the distinctly evening frock wbic,, |. now made with low neck or at least se,ni- low front and back for small dinner. crene Al chine can be used again, but rather ,,,ors summerysis chiffon cloth, black net or . e,,. silk grenadine For the young woman the, two former are preferable. A net with half inch folds of crape trimming ruffles or t,,n;o makes girlish gown, while the ideal even ing frock is of the chiffon cloth and crana with little dull jet and soft net frillinrs.
 An excellent utility gown is made from black Simpson print This is a fine hl.cL and launders well, keeping its color. Made on simple. easily laundered models. two of these dresses will keep you well dressed for mornings One may be made with de{ach- able vest of black tucked net. and also a vest of the material for more hack use.
 These gowns can be frightened with turn over cuffs and collars of white organdy or Quaker net. Neither of these materials will wash. but as the broad hems are merely folded and pressed 1t is easy to make new ones frequently.