The Washington times., 1914-04-23

sights ana experiences Tor the Alncri-
can troops and sailors, and will recall
to those making history today many
stirring events in the past. The city.
which is one Of the oldest, quaintest,
and most cosmopolitan Of the Mexican
coast towns. with a population OF 1900,
was one of the first places to be settled
by the Spanish invaders, and the scene
of battles ancient and modern. Today
it presents a curious blend OF both peri
ods-fne new buildings standing side
by side with diminutive negro cabins.
and certain parts OF the city resembling
Valencia and Bilbao transplanted to the
New World.
The city epitomizes the whole Of
Mexican history. Here the Spaniards
planted their first stockade; fought
their first battle with the natives, and
established their base Of supplies while
they attacked the great stronghold Of
the Aztecs. And from 1t they sent back
their fleet laden with gold, wrested
from the dying Indians. For three GEN.
turtles 1t was the main port of New
on the Spanish yoke the last flag Of
Spain was hauled down from the for
tress Of San Juan de Ulna In the bay
of Vera Cruz, one mile from the main
land.
The Castillo de San Juan de Ulua, on
la Gailega island, formerly a penal set
Element, consists of a fort, drydock,
shipyard, lighthouse and a military
prison and marine signal station. The
cornerstone was laid in 1928, and the
the water line are said to have cost up
ward Of 100000 pesos, $4,000, 008).
They have withstood the Incessant
pounding Of tremendous seas for four
centuries. More than 100000 pesos
have been spent on Ulua.
Harbor Hard to Enter.
The bay and harbor, formed by the
coast and the Gallega reef, are difficult
Of entrance to ships, because of the
many close small reefs. Tho harbor
has an area Of 500 acres and an average
depth Of only thirty feet. The mouth
eIsht-six feet wide, Is protected by a
lighthouse. Formerly ships we're OBJ
liged to put to sea fer safety In blow.
Recently more than $50, 000, 900 has been
spent to make the harbor safe with
Lreakwaters and sea wall. with arti-
icial blocks Weighing more than thirty
tons each The harbor Is full OF man.
eating sharks.
There are four railways in Vera Cruz
the Mexican railway. the Interoceanic
railway, the Vera Cruz and Isthmus
railway, and the Vera Cruz Limited. The
chief hotels are near the railway sta
lions and docks, and generally under
Spa nish management, with English also
spoken. There are tramways connect
ing the railroad stations and traversins
the main avenue, and that avenue boasts
of asphalt.
Through Vera Cruz pass most Of the
exports and imports of southern and
central Mexico, nearly one-fourth OF
the countrys total imports, entaising a
customs collection Of over Loo. 900 pesos
lie in its harbor. althogh recently Tam
pico has developed formidable rival.
The Avanida de Ia Independence,
which leads from the Mexican railway
station. is the main thoroughfare. and
on it are the best shops. quaint houses
with painted wooden balconies and huge
oak ornamented doors. The citys gath
erng place, however, especially IN the
evening, when hands play ana the
populace exerts itself, Is the Place de
palms There Is also an unkempt and
dusty Porfirio Diaz Park. with a fine
monument Of the patriot President BE
nito Pablo JuareZ, bearing an inscrip-
ton, "E1 respecto al derecho ageno es
la nag" c'Respect for the rights OF
others is peace.)
Market Attracts All.
There Is a great covered market IN
an open square. where on Sunday morn
ings Vera Cruz housewives ranging
from stalwart negresses and olive
skinned Vera Cruzanas and darker IN
dams to creoles and cream-white Span
ish senorss congregate and ody pro-
visions at shops and stalls, many OF
them primitive structures protected
from the sun by squares of mating on
posts. Swarthy vendors squat beneath
these, with here and there q oaoe
strapped on mothers back. and be-
side them their wares-pomegranate
shaddocks. alligator pears, pineapples'
orange seeds, cheap German mirrors,
metal combs. peppers and sizzhns
and there are impromptu cockpits, as
miniature thesters, and almost every
where are chickens. plucked and I'M
plucked, dead and alive; for the chicken
is to Mexico what the pig Is to Ireland.
There are many flower stalls. too, SUIT
ing the native taste for rich coloring.
The climate of Vera Cruz Is moist
and at some seasons almost unbearaoly
hot, ranging from 90 degrees Fahren-
heit In April and May to LIZ degrees In
frequent wild storm winds from the
north. flashing the rising tide often a
fortnight at time. Rain rarely rams
In Vera Cruz in the daytime, but when
does, II usually hoI deSiSPoNs
or hurricane that seems to threaten up
roofing the strongest palms and toss
ing them from the plaza out to sea
The road from Vera Cruz to Mexico
City, 263 miles long. which will stretch
before the American forces on their
inland march. is beset at many points
with danger spots amid grand and I'M
posing mountain scenery. From Vera
Cruz. which lies four feet above sea
level. II rises to dizZying heights OF
more than n mile and a half above the
towers Of the seaport. The railroad IS
rich in tunnels and short. sharp turns
amid the mountains and crawls rever-
beratingly over narrow and dangerous
bridges spanning chasms and sorgeS of
dizZying depth.
Just beyond Vera Cruz where sand
dunes alternate with marsh lands and
wild fowl Tend the air with weird cries
and shriekings, lies the Laguna de Cocos
cocoa nut lagoon) where the Mexican
army that defended Vera Cruz in the
former Mexican war surrendered TO Gen.
Scott. Across the Jungle tops range
high blue hills and the Pico de OriEaba
against the northern sky. n little fur
| Their on the American troops will pass
Soledad. where the peace treaty between
the Spanish General Prim and the Mex
! lean General Doblado was concluded In
1852 Here thew will cross bridge OF
| 100 fest over the Rio Jamapa. on the
right a deep gorge and the remains OF
An old Spanish causeway. The country
| Is broken with hills and valleys. AT
Cameron, 63 kilometres from Vera cruz
white monument and stone slab at :he