The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-01-25

OF gathering nOtcS loT keHciai ieNN"
Of coming fashions. 1t cannot be said
that the real novelties of the spring sea-
son are yet on view anywhere. At the
same time 1t is not difficult TO gather a
general idea of what Is to be in the
world OF fashion. On the whole the
prospect is satisfactory. With a few
notable exceptions the fashions Of 1914
promise well. for the accepted "lgne'
will be exaggeratedly feminine and
classic draperies will be once more in
favor.
The Parisicnncs are cutting the
smart" out of their dictionaries; and
when / say smart l do not mean
"chic," which is quite another thing.
The smart element came into existence
in England, especially in London, and
from there 1T was imported In large
quantities into France. and probably
America. Many persons seem to think
that chic and smart are two words
meaning the same thing. but this Is
grave mistake. The chic woman is born;
the smart woman is a modern creation.
The former word expresses atmos-
phere. while the latter merely expresses
q passing fad. I believe that rather
Interesting book has been written on
1.-THE Sins OF the Smart Set" / have
not read this book, but l can imagine
that it might be intercsting-and in
structive-for certainly the sins OF this
particular set have been many against
81 .hn
made the turkey trot and bunny hug
fashionable dances it is la femme
chic" who Is just now making an en-
Quis!te dance Of the genuine Argentine
tango II was the smart set who brought
in the idea that smoking in public res
taurants was the correct thing for
women; It is ia femme chic" who is
proving that the cigarette itself is a per-
fectly harmless affair but that very
much depends upon where it is smoked.
could continue In this strain for
long time. but ! do not propose going
further into the subject to-day. another
time I may have occasion to return tn
II. and then I will explain my meaning
more fully Suffice 1t to say that for the
moment at least ia femme chic" has
and summer of exquisitcly dainty fash
ions. and women are going to be eNag-
geratedly womanly so far as dress is
concerned.
! have referred to classic draperies.
1t is amazing to realize the progress al
ready made by the artistic movement
which was set on foot a few months
ago by few leading painters. These
artists headed by Antonio dc la Can
dara, the famous portrait painter have
been making a determined effort to res
cue the world of dress from banality.
They have been preaching the gospel of
individuality in season and out. they
have been making special designs for
women we'll known in society, and these
designs have been carefully copied 10y
some Of the leading dressmakers in
Paris. 1t was movement worthy of
all praise. for it is largely owing To it
that classic draperies and classic out
lines are once more gliding into view.
think every one Will now agree that
the hobble skirt was a horror. quite as
great "a horror from an artistic point
OF view as the extraordinary bodily
contortions which SO many smart
women adopted last season and which
the Londoners have agreed to describe
rs 1.-The slinker SLOUGH" With all these
cOntortions and absurdites we have
finished. We are now going to receive
with open arms Greek draperies which
would have delighted the soul of PraX-
iteles. We are going to cultivate grace
full outlines which recall those OF the
Venus de Milo. We are-this is al
most certain-even going to revive the
stately movements of the minuet.
The fad of the moment in the more
exclusive Partisan circles is the prac-
tise of hygienic exercise. This fad is
carried 30 far in some cases that
have even heard the ubiquitous tango
referred To as being 80 very hygienic -
Indeed | know of one teacher OF the
tango who IL making a nice little for
tune by teaching the steps of this fas-
cinating dance as a sort OF Gymnasti &c
exercise. lie speaks of his "cour de
danse' as modern school for draw
ing room gymnastics. This is going
rather far, but | mention it just TO show
that the Parsiennes are preparing 10
regard the graceful movements OF the
body from serious point of view; they
are. in fact becoming unconsciously
Greek in thought.
Several months ago | spoke OF the
revival OF pleated skirts and draperies
which was approaching in the world
OF fashion. At that time no one seemed
to dream OF accordion or sun ray pleats
Nearly all the dress experts We're loudly
asserting that skirts were tighter than
ever. But | knew what was saying
In intimate conversations with certain
of the eminent dressmakers who rul,
Paris 80 far as dress Is concerned
gathered information which proved very
useful.