Evening star., 1914-01-25

self on having her Ire s
chores done before necessity
demands them.
The appeal is made on the basis of the
prime good management of the drudgery
of affairs. and it is rarely made in vain.
Just why new fabrics are SO desirable
when the real cold of winter is upon
rs is a question for psychologists. not
for the fashion writer's. although be it
said, in parenthesis. that the gentle un-
Outstanding of th. mind of multitude
must be a part of the curriculum of
studies that a maker of fashion should
include if she wishes to succeed.
The shops in addition to the conpl-
Tncnt paid to ones thrift. coniide to worn-
en- that the supply Of novelties VIII be
exhausted in a few days, and those who
leave their purchasing until a seasonable
time will have to be content with the
IcavingS of the alert minds
This is a tremendous argument to the
american woman. who breads being left
out of the foremost rank of any move
rnent. And the shops probably sell
thousands Of yards of material through
II.
There is senli-annually a deaTth of GER
tain fabrics which the pubic demands,
hut it comes about more through an in
sufticiency supplied by the foreign looms
than from a terrific demand OF the part
of forchanded women. The world of
fashion has learned to bow before Il man
named Rodier of whom the world knows
little beyond his name. He sits in
street in Paris and spins out a new
fabric, lets dressmakers see it. and in a
twinklng OF an eye. it is heralded over
the marts of fashion. and every shop
keeper wants a bid at il. Through him
we have had the joy OF wearing many
lovely textures. and incidentally many
things that are as perishable as the
dreams which may inspire NJ Rodier-
Eelours de laine. duvetyn. cotton crepe,
cotton ratlne are among tue 1aNorite
fabrics that vanished as you touched
them Duvetyn is probably the loveliest
of all the cloths that have been invented
for womans apparel. and those who
have worn it have raveled it off as
though it We're loosely knitted union
suit
However. the looms have gone on per-
fecting the weave of each of these IN
ventions and we are prom sed new
quality of summer Guvetyr that has
good wearing strength. it is said. 1t is
certainly desirable ma ter al, OF lhat no
makes denial.
Tafeta is to be recognized this spring
by those who advocate the artistic side
or dress. Non-wearinS quallleS all
argued against it. but we are told that
the manufacturers have solved the prob
lem of a smooth surface that will not
crack. and if it is true we have another
inundation of the fabric that We suffered
from several Years ago.
Last summer in Par.s nearly every
fashionable foreign and American wom-
an owned 1t least frock OF this
kind of silk In America itself, the silk
was taboo. Possibly We mistrusted it:
POSSIBLY we were repeatedly reminded
of the way its reiteration wearied us in
other years.
Today white taffeta as well as white
satin is offered US for one-piece frocks
as well as for separate skirts worn with
thin blouses. Neither is a new fashion
in Europe. for the smart women wore
the satin separate skirt as far back as
the summer of 1911. before Deauville had
taken away from Trouvilie its fashion
and prestige. 1t was there. in the steep
ill-paved little rue. de Paris, that we first
saw the satin skirt displace the one OF
linen.
In that foolish little promenade by the
sea fashions We're launched that
Importance wore something new II was
worth the dignity OF cable Now the
open. spacious. if short. rue Gontaut
Biron. in Deauville. Il few miles from
Trouville. is the breeding place for new
idea in costumery in August, as is Clros,
at Monte Carlo; in February.
Commcner than satin in texture. but
very important in the spring offerings
is Rodiers new weave called golhne. IL
consists of raised stripe on mesh
t. I~a fnr fItyl
drcn's clothes well as for frocks for
women
To the influence of MARITIME is probably
due the attempt to turn the cottons with
vide awning stripes in colors into sum
mer frocks | think the idea is quite
fetching. don't you? 1t is admirable for
the seashore and mountains.
The fabrics that have the china pat
terms on them are being held up as the
last thing in artistic designing. These
We're also used by MARITIME last summer
and are just getting into circulation over
here.
Marines children used to wear little
-rocks of Chinese cotton crepe with
china blue designs over the surface, and
the effect was SO good that certain pro-
gressive shopkeepers brought the mate
rial over here. and now any mother in
the land may dress her daughters like
these artistic little youngsters The fab
ric makes attractive summer frocks for
women, but do not be nisled into build
ing it into separate blouses.
Cotton velours is of the new fab
Ncs also cotton set with without de-
sign The white chiffon cloth that has
body to it. and washes like fine muslin,
is not offered for one-piece simple frocks.
Let ME advise it. however. to the woman
who wants something that will serve
many purposes.
1t did good work on the beaches of
Europe last season. and all the women
who adopted il for semi-formal day
gowns liked it immensely. 1t should be
kept down to the plainest lines. no lace
no embroidery. The edges should be
finished with real hemstitchiug or that
new version of it which is called picot
edging. which is hemstitched with the
hem cut off.
II is too early to speak strongly OF new
spring fashions, but there are many
strtws floating around in the air which
TO the wise foretell from what quarter
the early winds will blow. Those coats.
for instance, that stand out at the hem:
they were introduced last August. or
rather earlier than that. for smart
American woman who always ATTENDS
the races i'll attractive new frocks. wore
ono N June. in the shade of red known
Il, f.f ifa