Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-11-10

when finishing the bottom of a tunic,
the edge OF hat, or bottom of the
sleeves looks like an irregular silk
fringe.
The wide bands of fur which are
used on the bottom of the full skirts,
or TUNES, are strong reminder of the
costumes of the Russian, the Pole and
the Cossack. With this as beginning,
the designers have harked back for in
SEPARATION to costumes of the Russians
and Tartars of the Middle Ages. Won
derful evening coats are made like
the costumes of bartering Tartar
tribes. The material is heavy brocade
almost of the texture of silk tapestry,
while the figures scattered across it's
surface are Oriental in origin. The
garment is cut very close-fitting at the
shoulders, and with sleeves set in.
which fare at the bottom where they
are finished with band of fur, wide
band of fur adds weight and richness
at the bottom of the coat, which flares
out in deep godet ripples.
Secondary only to fur comes braid
ing. The popularity for this is no
doubt due to the war abroad. For all
we may talk of the barbarity of war
our hearts go out to the soldier who is
fighting for his country. whether he be
English, German. Russian, Austrian or
French. There is glamor about war
to the uninitiated which is reflected
in the trimming and cut of our clothes.
Wide braid is used on the bottoms
of skirts and tunics in place of fur.
Narrow braid binds the edges of tailor
ed costumes and soutache. Hercules,
and round braids are used for braiding
dresses. belts. panels, collars and cuffs
in attractive designs. Wider braid
and cord are made into frogs and down
the fronts of dresses. giving the mill
tary effect. Even modified epaHlets,
made from black or blue braid, are
seen on frocks.
Close in the wake of braiding comes
beading. Many handsome frocks have
belts which are beaded in some attrac-
tive design in colors rich and dark,
which adds snap and smartness to the
entire frock One blue dress made at
ter the popular Moyen Age style had
belt which widened in the front and
dropped rather low This was entire
ly covered with beaded design in
bronze beads. with now and then red
bead which served to accentuate the
center of the conventionaljZed flowers.
Color combinations of small beads may
be used most effectively to add the
touch which tells upon an otherwise
somber dress.
Embroidery is also used to great
extent this year. Not the fine small
embroidery but the large spraw1y
variety, which is done in more or less
coarse silk or wool and is most effec-
tive
In the illustration of the coat the
Cossack silhouette, which have spok-
en- of in the fore part of this letter,
may be noted The closeness of the
coat at the shoulders and the flare a.
the bottom show the latest cut for
coats. Skunk fur Is used for the roll
ing collar, the cuffs and the bottom Of
the coat. Frogs and the military note
which is so popular on coats of many
styles.
This same style may also be seen in
coats of fur and fur cloth, while the
bands in this case are of contrasting
fur. A long haired fur on the short,
close fur, or fur of merely contrast
ling color, are combined into coat of
luxurious warmth and good style.
Although the dresses with the exag-
gerated waistline, or no waistline at all
are very much the rage, it has not