The star-independent. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1904-1917, 1914-11-09

and mauve are colors which are espe-
cially attractive in broadeloth.
Faille. once called Ottoman and ben
galine, is very popular in silk or wool.
1t has suppleness and firmness which
make it especially suited to the one
piece frock. The clothes of the season
are what determines the fabrics and
this year the one-pieee frocks and sep
arate coats cause fabrics supple and
substantial to be the mode.
There is serge, the standby of de
cades. gabardne and fabrics which
have long.haired silky finish called,
kittens ear, peau de sourls tmouse
skim, aud zibelne. Velvet, imitation
mole and Persian lamb cloth complete
wide variety of the smart fabrics for
the daylight hours.
The jumper effect in dresses which is
so popular at the present time, adds
another happy way of combining fab
rics and colors. In falle silk comes Il
long tuniced froek with pleated lower
skirt and jumper basque waist. The
sleeves and underarms of this waist are
of soft silk with Paisley design A
close-fitting little hat with three perky
feathers in the front gives extra dash
to the costume.
Plaids in gray and festive colors are
always bright note in the seasons
when they are popular. In greens and
blues with touch of red or yellow
they may be used to advantage for the
winter frock, primarily for home wear,
but which may fill manv wants under a
stylish separate coat. The model illus,
trated Is in dark green with a blue and
black stripe checked off with narrow
lines of red The bodice is in BASQUE
effect and the skirt has long tunic
which dips to the edge of the lower
skirt in front and graduates higher in
the back. The lower skirt and crushed
9irdle are of black. The flaring collar
aud rounding cuffs are of doubled white
oreandy.
Broeades which embody in them.
selves all the sumptuousness of cen.
tury ago are the fabrics used for even.
ing gowns.
On heavy silk. thin voile. chiffon or
velvet, gold and silver threads are
woven into the brocade designs. There
are also velvet broeaded voiles and chif
tons with bit of gold or silver in or
outlining the design. These brocades
are not stiff as of old but soft and phi.
able, draping most artisticallv
Black satin, faille and velvet hold a
strong place among evening gowns
These are lightened by the use of rib
bon sashes in vivid shades, as wei, as
by the wonderful Roman striped rib
bons and silks which are very popular
Some of the newest of these show the
Autumn note in their combinations OF
russet brown, green and dull red with
always a stripe of black. This new colo,
scheme is also to be sen in the new taf
fetas. Taffeta, by the way, is used q
great deal in combination with serge
and gabardine.
For the younger generation come
chiffon voiles with six or eight-inel
satin stripe in self color woven on the
edge. TUNES and tiounces are made
with this stripe on the edge aud will
the plain voile for the rest of the frock
These voiles come in all the light shades
so popular for evening wear, soft blues
shell pinks, varying shades of greer
and in yellow that so closely re
sembles gold that it hardly seems pos
| sible that it is not a metal cloth
The costumes at present demand
many accessories in the way of neck
wear and the present tendency in these
dainty lace and organdy affairs is
toward the cape effects. Fichu effects
are also to be seen and are an attractive
addition to dark frock of serge, CAB
ardine or satin. On the popular dark
| blue froeks are to be seen cuffs and col
lars in yellow crepe or ecru linen. One
set of ecru linen had tunback cuffs and