The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-11

Nl'llAH' hul THESE nSefuI in .
stitut IONS the great Paris dressmakers
and miIincrs would have found them
selvcs faced by serious difficulty and
their clients, especially those who dwell
in the United states, might have been
without new models for fall and winter
Paris itself has been in great danger.
Business was for the moment brought
10 something like n standstill. But the
hs drasSmakcrs and tailors did not
interrupt their work. Hardly any OF
their wortwomen were dismissed and
the new fall and winter models were
shown In the branch establishments
here at Riarritz and across the Chan
mel IN London. Everything was per-
fectlv organized and since this is at all
time a dead season in Paris no serious
upset has taken place in the world Of
dress
or course the heads OF the famous
Rue DO la raiX establishments have
been pat to enormous expense. They
have shouldered their responsibilities
their best to avoid inconvenience to
their clients or to their workpeople.
They have kept going in a wonderful
manner and now they are reaping their
reward. for the branch establishments
are doing fine business and orders for
the new models are being executed
daily
Some ~ the new restaurant cloaks are
rarely beautiful in material and in de-
sign In several Of my recent articles
have indicated that q great deal Of
velvet VIII he worn this winter-rich
silk velvet, supple chiffon velvet. Liberty
velvetoen. 81, sc. The mantle have
ske,ched this week is a Redfern model.
Tho material is chiffon velvet in a
delicious shade Of Paynes gray and the
wrap is lined throughout with sea green
chiffon. The cloak itself is very large
and voluminous. II IL a circular design:
one Of those picturesque wraps which
give such splendid effect when thrown
back over chair in a restaurant or an
opera box.
Evening wraps are now regarded az
properties. They form part of a superb
spA'tacle. Clever women use them in
just the same way that sensational
portrait painter uses a velvet curtain
or marble pillar, as properties which
produce a given effect.
These circular cape wraps will re-
main fashionable all through the winter.
Capes Of this order are no longer gem
orally worn in the street unless for
driving. hut for theatres and restau-
rants they are immensely popular.
Some Of the new evening wraps arc
hroidery. II is once again considered
desirable that women should glitter
Quantities Of very small paillettes and
beads are massed together in the new
first Importance that the trimmings
should he cxqusitely fine.
Gone is the day when machine made
palette embroidery. which gave sort
sbe This will he season of halt
tones in more senses than one. over
here IN Europe neutral tinted materials
will he largely chosen because so many
families are in mourning. but In any
case We should have enjoyed half tone
season
PEOPLE nave grown tired Of Russian
ballet color schemes badly reproduced
the artistic instinct which dwells In
most n us, though we so often drive 1t
hack into obscurty. cannot be long
denied For season, perhaps two.
people will accept eccentric color
schemes and violent harmonies which
are absolutely devoid of true meaning.
But II IL inevitable that the day Will
come when these false eccentricities
grow tiresome and even offensive
A very famous painter once said:
"L'originallte voulue n existe pas. 81
ellie est voufue ellie devient une con-
ven',on" And this is absolutely true.
The originality Of Leon BslAst is not
"ror.ginalite voulue." 1t is an origin
ality which belongs TO the man and to
the school he has founded.
In the Bakst color schemes there Is
plenty ~ splendid meaning. He knows
what ne wants and what he means.
Very different is the copyist who ninGs
few crude colors together and assures
you that Il is tres Ballet Russo
Appreciation Of the modern Russian
school NJ painting has TO he acquired
On the other hand. almost every one
can appreciate and feel the charm OF
clevorly blended pastel tints This Is
why We arrive again and again, at
soaso. II soft colors and neutral tints.
This is why the subtle pastel colors
nev'r flil to make direct appeal to
tho heart.
Mauy ~ the more elaborate visiting
and restaurant gowns of the coming
"'n'or will no expressed in soft gray,
or n.u" volve;. An immense quantity
or back velvet will he used for dresses
and for mantles, and pure white velvet
VIII De chosen for dinner gowns when
eApens" does not have to be considered.
J nave seen really lovely evening gowns
made entirety of pearl gray mirror vel
Ne' aud trimmed with narrow bands
"' S'h" on the corsage and tunic dra-
per',.
on me ~ these models there was
a ''ns'h Of fine silver embroidery ar
ranged an one side of the decolete cor
sage md an effective sash made of
rrlrC do MongIaur' aatIn Another