davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-05-10
Yellow Now the Vogue.

For long time yellow was hardly
! counted in with pale pink and pale
blue as an appropriate color for all occa-
sions-for use on lingerie and nesiiges. for
the touch of pale color on the lace or
chiffon blouse and for the light-colored
blouse itself. Now yellow is in all its
glory. For not only are yellow ribbons
used to lace up all sorts of lingerie and
yellow roses and ribbons used on negli-
ges, but tiny yellow muslin borders ap-
pear on handkerchiefs and yellow blouses
of chiffon and crepe de chine and linen
are much worn. There are many new an6
interesting names for the various popu-
lar shades of yellow. Probably maize is
the best of the light shades for general
wear Along with the increased use OF
yellow comes the increased use Of yellow
roses for corsage flowers and trimming
for evening frocks.
Evening star., 1914-05-10

they we're impossible and utterly unlike
the colored drawings that Bakst had
made The Russians Of high degree We're
compelled to throw them aside, although
they had cost three hundred dollars
apiece. Others had to be made by the
practical dressmaker.
All of which goes to show how the
lack of practical knowledge is a decided
drawback to the designing of clothes by
great artists. 1t is possibly for this rea-
son that every attempt in this line has
been failure And when artists talk
about the beauty Of the high waist line
and insist upon it as an adjunct to our
costumes they forget. or do not consider
the fact that this kind of waist line de-
mandS consistent silhouette (Which is
the original subject of this discussion).
II was one of the ugliest features of
modern dress when allied to a tight skirt
and kimono blouse. Now that 1t has dis
appeared to large extent. one is CRATE
full The long waist line of other DAYS
has not appeared. but each week shows
fashion returning to some form OF dra-
perry that gives the impression of long
line from shoulder to hip.
In the past there have been many
ways of making this feature ugly, and
so one hopes that the orient will continue
to exert its influence upon the style At
present ii is charming. and we are prob
ably indebted to this street model in blue
gabardine for showing us how ii can he
executed without loss of taste or undue
primitiVeneSs.
Women are beginning 10 lcneihen the
waist line without decreasing the full
ness at the hips. The models that are
being made for summer show the wide
sash draperv as an adjunct to- gathers
or pleats. The woman who has undue
flesh below the waist will not give a
hearty welcome to this iuea. but il is
not more seriously ilconveniencing than
any o. the other fashions with which
they have been struggling for the last
three years
Nothing has been invented for SO long
a time for the woman with an old
fashioned figure that it is probab she
has either given mp all nope. has
changed her type through exercise diet
or dancing
How any one can remain stout who in
Evening star., 1914-05-10
Clothes One Sees i'm Fashion Parad@s Two Continents

that the European buyer. that is. the
individual has purchased that model as
well as the American woman who gets
her clothes through the medium of a
buyer from this side.
Take for example that gown which
popular acclaim gives to Cheruit. but
which has been made by so many French
dressmakers since February that its
origin is obscured. II could be seen on
the terrace OF Shepheard's Hotel in
March, at the races at -tuteuil in April,
at tea in the Carlton in London week
later. and at luncheon at the Ritz III New
York now.
1t has an overskirt OF striped cabar-
dine a lower skirt so narrow that 1t
looks like a pair of trousers. a short
coatee that seems to he a loose waist
at the first glance. and sash that con
fines the hips. The stripes are in yellow,
blue and black. and the rest OF the
gown, or rather suit. Is in dark blue.
that deep. deep blue that is usually
called by the name of crows wing.
Evening star., 1914-05-10

tn" sentimentalists, not for those who
actually tight.
But all Of such discussion is not closely
akin to the matter III hand. which is the
entertainment afforded by the parade OF
clothes from cairo to America. W hen
unt sees the same model repeated IN
every city one feels among old friends.
one inyoiuntarily holds out the hand to
.. certain gown as though one had
quickly seen familiar face.
To b. at the inception Of these new
clothes il IL. Place Nendome. tie Rue
de Ia PAX IN. Rue raitbout and the
-NvcaHe d' Nttiu. and then 10 follow them
through Their phases and stages to one :
own town. IS to have a good chance 10
find ont which is the best and the worst
model invented for the season.
Orie wonders If tlIe constant repetition
Of i certain style is due TO the taste
If women. til" pertinacity Of the dress
maker or the uniform buying of the
professional buyer. one is tempted to
believe it is the latter, until one sees
Evening star., 1914-05-10

"HE same general STYLES are used for
bathing suits as for other clothes,
including the minaret tunic and v
shaped neck. and are frequently made OF
taffeta a jaunty one-piece dress of dark
blue taffeta has princess effect. short
sleeves, neck and a sash OF Roman
striped or the same taffeta knotted at
the left of the back. With this is worn
a silk kerchief as a twisted turban, with
ends tied in points in front.
suit Of serge and mohair in blue or
black forms a close skirt. with an out
side hem of checked tan and blue, or
whatever check may be used. The waist
has a slightly V neck. The trimming is
on the sleeves. top of vest and around
the neck. continuing across the front.
Fine-ius;er motair answers well for
blouse made with short sleeves. with
tiny revers. belt. cuffs and fiat collar Of
contrasting mohair. The skirt is of knee
length buttoning in front. Mohair is
much cooler than serge.
A neat blue taffeta suit has skirt with
Evening star., 1914-05-10

The first time / saw this suit worn
outside the atelier of a dressmaker was
at the April races at Auteuil by Mile
Forsane. whose winsome face and figure
carries off any costume with distinction
she was continually surrounded by a
changing group of the curious and the
camera men as a tribute to her sar-
torial triumph.
The only mistake she made in her cos
tune was serious one She added a
turban of brown tulle. which was not in
the same period as the sIit. and let it
be whispered ii had been worn by her
earlier IN the sea son While winter was
raging III the way it did rage during
January in Paris
From that moment on this suit re
peated itself in many lands. but always
in the same language. Its changes came
IN the way in which different women
carried it Today it is one OF the best
sellers, and in clothes as in literature
the exclusives are neglecting it. Going
far out of their way. in fact to avoid it
Evening star., 1914-05-10

THIS is season of combinations.
Printed and striped voles are COM
bined. plain and ali over embroidered
crepes and various fancy ratine weaves
for waists and tunics are worn with
skirts OF plain or striped ratine. White
skirts of net voile. crepe. organdy or
swiss with ruff1es of the same trimming
skirt and corsage are charming under a
tunic or drapery and corsage Of figured
novelty.
Sheerness is a necessary Characters
tic of summer material, whether it be
crepe. voile, ratine, rice cloth or other
material. Even ginghams are eN-
auisitely soft and sheer with artistic
coloring and designs. Crepes are in
striped, plaided. figured. open. hemstitch-
ed or ladder stripes. and rice effects.
Markings that ripple like waves when
a pebble is thrown In the water are seen
in all fabrics from a heavy coating to
Evening star., 1914-05-10
A Useful Wrap.

A WRAP that can be readily converted
from "A somber-hued cloth for after
noon to a gay satin for evening by the
simple action of turning it inside out is
practical garment for the woman of
limited means 1t may be made in the
form of one of the fashionable capes W tn
a deep puff reaching from the shoulders
to the waist, being buttoned in place.
The cape is cut in one piece and is
slightly circular. as it is narrower at
the top than at the bottom. The neck
is finished by wide collar. which may
match the satin or be in contrast with it.
Evening star., 1914-05-10
To Hold Summer Shoes

A GREAT convenience for the neat
safekeeping of shoes is the follow
ing box: 1t is a siN-sided box. with a
cushioned cover that makes the box
comfortable seat-and so makes 1t suit
able for a small bedI Dom.
The inside of the box is fitted with SIX
pockets. one to each OF its sides. each
big enough to accommodate pair OF
shoes. The central space. between the
shoes, can be taken upsby rubbers and
shoe polishes. Upholstered in very at
tractive cretonne, this box costs $I.S9.
Evening star., 1914-05-10

rT is not easy te get away from the
Jacket that looks more like a sacque
than a coat Possibly no one wants
10 avoid it, but il is not for the stout
and the thin alike. one must con-
slider the proportions if one has an idea
Of looking ones best and not merely fol-
lowing a fashion.
As al efforts to bring in the long IN
crovable coat have failed so far one must
take up the subject of this accepted
short Jacket with serious consideration
II Is evidently the choice of the majority.
and il is only natural TO suppose that a
Ii, simme- progresses the short affair
will increase in fashion. as women nave a
rooted objection to wearing one men
more Of material in this summer climate
than i necessary. one is led to believe
thai We shall see the lines Of the figure
cut al the waist line by this sacque coat
on figures to which il is becoming and to
which il is not
Thsse ar, tvo models Worn 50 far. one
is straight and follows the lines of the
figure without touching il, and th- other
has !. lippltuG back from shouide.s 10
nem Thi: hern is only an inch OF two
below thf waist line.
Nom of these new coats. il seems, is
u ~, So long as to hde the top part Of
the sash, fot. mind YOU. the strongest
Evening star., 1914-05-10

Thc mode ot the moment has absorbed
III, writers. and the spirit OF cestumrry
..i ESCAPED, ouly Ia" great CouturierS
I'll Paris havc studied the relation Of his
for, ;uid mental world movement to COS
-yr4sry. They franNly sand that the
.-efof.- ut tua last few wears. daring.
-- ie-..tt ltlmodeSt according 10 pre-
conceived tradition. were merely the OK
.e,-s!ru o1 The feminist movement and
all u involved.
NHd by fenlutsuG these Ffcnsh eou-
tIjers ou NOT refer 10 the suffrage This
.t3cStiou. lie III. on. OF slavery durIn2
the civil war, is onIv banner. not the
actual cause. and ouly a fraem, nj nf 4
situation, not tlte nucleus i thing fer
Evening star., 1914-05-10

duges in dancing is a mystery. This
pastime. or madness rather. has done
more to keep. and to make. women thin
than any other form of effort advocated
for that purpose
Let me suggest a practical hint TO
those women who Ike the longwaisted
effect and yet who do not wish to add
the bulk of a wide sash to their hips
Use ribbons silk cords, as Cheruit
does on her new summer gowns. bring
ing them down over the hips in two or
three rows. The idea is really good.
The cords hold the gathers down and so
appease fashion. and at the same time
they increase the length of line. This
trick is also primitive. And if woman
went uncorseted the effect would be ugly
to our sophisticated eyes, but when she
is well corseted. the arrangement is at
tractiNe.
And by the way corsets are coming
into more favor than theE have garnered
for year Women are tired OF gong
around without support and they are
realizing what the doctors told them
That civilization had deprived women OF
a natural support for their waist hna ana
abdomen as well as the soles OF their
feet, and that it was not possible at this
late date to give the figure freedom with
out serious injury to it.
All these facts taken together are re-
sponsible for the lengthening of the
waist line. and by summer We shall have
forgotten that we ever advocated the
waist under the bust Strange to say.
there is no reasonable argument in favor
Of the return of the small waist. and
there is no attempt to get TINS fashlon
again before the public. but it is prob
able don't YOU think. that with the full
Of hp
surely come into the small one?
This is not pleasant thought. and. as
the surgeons declare, it looks as though
1t would require 2 surgical operation 10
bring it about. but those of us who have
watched women change their silhouette
and their measurements have full faith
in her ability to- reduce her waist SIX
inches in as few months.
The minaret is no longer With us for
the summer. 1t has glided out as quick
" as it came. No more do the stiffened
edges of soft fabrics swing around our
hips. although there is no lack of dra-
perry there, but it is part of the skirt. and
does not come from an attached piece
unless one could call the new long over
skirt by that name
one unconsciously thinks OF il as the
skirt itself for il soon will be. Its
lengtneninG and the Dropping of the mar
Tow pettcoat are Very sure, the dress
prophets think. And there are others.
high in fame and prestige. who feel that
the straight pleated skirt is bound to
come in with the ga. iiest STYLES of au-
tumn. to be foreshadowed in Paris in
June.
The only dark shadow on the sky of
the near future is the ins,stence by some
of the .lressmakerS on what one writer
has called the bunty STYLES. They are
ugly and even romance cannot redeem
them.
Not even the marvellous Anna PAY
Iowa can make them likable. She has in
trodutAd them into her dance to Weber $
Invitation to the Nalse. and one is
glad to hear the last strains of it. as the
costumes spoil her grace and beauty: her
appearance gives one a papicky feeling
as to what will happen to those who are
not formed in the long lines of lowell
ness
Evening star., 1914-05-10

IS great ltH!.,1t,rr "nee said that r WAS
mui t.ussibl,. to ss,. u10rc tlfau - segment
uf ts. r9iu ,f trc ~orid without solr"
mad lut tlls IS .aj taHr ~ many either
Things Tu S"~ IH, r"stumers "f tn"
riviliz,d world is tn gain m couhden Z"
OF ones final ori'iou ana 8" speak with
81 fccIiu. Of ruur- ASSURANCE than II IS
possible to haze if one s"rs only that
segment "f IL when lies al one thrcs-
mold.
IL is vastly entertaining 10 take III ;he
parade Of new eostumery from ca'r" TO
New York In clothes. as ia manners,
there is always ON" set that adopts the
same method speaks the same language
mas even the same gestures, and poses
IT'S hats in the same fashion
Eut despite rms, Individuality viii
creep out Even vit5 the laws laid down
ay some unseen upwer OF creed. there Is
the expression oi III. woman behind jhe
srork Tine temperament shines through
th, uuter apparel oue dressmaker may
nak. thrc. goWHS alike. II The same
material. and each woman will lend to
lire one she wears 4 piece 81 the living
spirit that actdatcS Grf existence.
one can r,.s& character through
clothes and one can read the race, the
soil from which one sprang, also by the
fashion Of wearing ones garments II
: a curious study. one To which people
nav, not paid nalf the attention il de
serves.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28
TELLS OF BIC
1914 CROPS N
NEW MEXICO
Totals in All Principal Field
and Orchard Crops the
Greatest Ever Known Says
Publication.

In an editorial summary Of crop
conditions during 1914 ln New Mex
$50, the current number OF The
Earth. the Santu FEES colonization
magazlne, received here today has
the followiug.
lu 1874 New Mexico grew the
greatcst value of field, orchard aud
meadow crops ever known. Tho total
was $40. 100000, cor moro thun the
production of both miurf and manu-
features i'm the state The Indian
corn was 2.15O.U00 bushels wheat
I.S5O.000 bushels oats. 2.0uO, o1n
bushels. POTATOES. |t.t50,0o0 bushels.
hay. $3.50 % toms apples. 100000
bushels. barley. 5000 bushels.
beams. $4,000 bushels, sweet puta-
toes. 2o 1000 bushels. broom corn.
100000 pounds cotton. 5000 bales.
iarar corn. as5. 600 bushels peanuts.
O. coo bushels. dry peas. $4,000 BUSH
sIs. peaches. 90. 900 bushels pears
go. ooo bushels, plum- and prun's
$4,000 bushels. cherries, l'.'"o
bushels: apIicots. 5000 hushri-i
grapes. 7S5.0U0 pounds Strawberries
so. 900 quarts. other berries $4,000
quarts. nuts. 2la.Noo pounds These
products alone were worth -"'''
600.
Added TO- this must come dairy
products $4,000. 0O0ls 5000 600 duz-
en- eggs tsI.0eO. 00Ol. 100000 pounds
of honey: 5000 pounds of wax ana
poultry ana garden vegetables % total
probably 81 $4,000. 600.
Finally must be added Si5."oo.oe'
from the sale Of farm ANIMALS. max
ing Il grand total of SIS, ooe ooo.
ON hand. when these returns We're
made. The farmers had on farm ana
range. $4,000 horses. worth Hlor
$4,000: gi1.U00 cattle, s3o.ooo.o 900
500 o sheep. So 900 Goa. 10000
mules. $1,000. 600. 10000 goats li
oo0 colonies of bees 1850 oou hoad
of uoultry. 10000 dairy cattle.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28
GERMAN BIPLNNE BROJGUT
DOWN by FRENCH TIIT

Paris. NDN. -s q 30 30. m-1-Iut
French war office gave nut au official
communication This afternoon as toI-
lows.
"In Belgium The ARTILLERY exchange.
were continued during IA. day of NO.
Nomher 90 without any particular tu-
Didcut. The heavy German artillery
showed less activity. There was out
one attack of infantry. go the south
of Ypres which was ropulsed by our
troops.
Toward evening our artillery
brought down a German biplanr.
carrying three ayiators ono of the
men was KILLED and the other tWg
were made ~pTisonctE.
In the region OF Arras and farther
20 the south there has been u0
change. The day passed very quietly
in the region OF me Aisnc. IN Cham
payne our heavy artillery inflicted ser-
lous LOSSES ou the artillery of the
enemy.
From the Argon1e Co The Nosges
theta is uothing &C., report
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28
RAILROAD STOPS FOR
10 MINUTES IN HONOR
OF DEAD PRESIDENT

Colorado springs. Colo, Nov. ZN-
All machine. and train service en
the lines Ui the Florence a. cripple
tro,h railroad Of which the late
Jesse o.. Waters. who died here S,s-
tcrduy as lh, result OF injuries re-
Dcited Boz U collision az cripple creek
"wednesday. WAS president was
stopped this l|fteruoon between 3 go
aud 80 O'Clock in memory of Mr..
Waters The action was taken CAS- me
result of au order ISSUED by J -.
flaherty, superintendent OF the road.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28

holding and ,h, bail 0a- 600 Ifs l0-
EaId mart NeEvan look Goodman
0'a., au5 Nsyla1d went back Too Hr--
toni position.
M.ies' forward pass was mlI,d u.
Harrison. Miles then went throuah
Parker for nine yards Bates made
ID first down and then Miles and
Craig repeated tine feat. putting the
uaI ON the Cadets IN-yard line. u.
A. Harrison replaced Bates Two
forward passes called. the second r.-
shifting .u "a touchhHck.
Army serImmnscd from thc Poe
ward lime. Uenedict breaking tnrausn
Miles Cor "a FIRST touchdown
Hudsson. Benedict Pr.,HarI and
Van Fleet were then used boz t series
oft powerful drives that carried the
nan to Nayy's 8,-yard lime. Here
|rre1dfoot took o. d. Harrison
place Army kept ~pIneeing al centor,
benedict carrying the bah Goo the a.
,crd line. Hudgso1 went MIN more
and Kennels went n Tor MaCoaeh.
Natr lost f.. for o0 side ana H1dg-
SON ORB tw. tries planted ihe HHIi -four
wards from tha lo1. Du tne most
rIay thc whole attack. winch Yielded
&C Sands. Wa- alHll,I 3d. tumble
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28

Wh..h Na.E recovered ae t.a.a-
back.
Ns.y ..mmra.d tr1m .H. rara
marE and Boo four plays mode Do
rHrIs Craig contributing suu.f off &c.
The period ended with Saw u.IIius
tHe ..II yards from its own .u.
Fourth Period.
U'.d1aft returned Go tbs a.ua -or
ths ia-t quarter he a- ur.. tried
1871. forward passes. which grounded.
tUt Then IHutsd The N.a vHs 90
.u., returned 90 Eat5's }t...r| IIrr.
a. lateral pass iu-t the NaFE .E .aIus,
% plunge at she line was thrown back
two. and Iu attempt l' forward s
ius .ost ,.aht more. e total uI It BOO
three plays. Blodg-tt kI.ktI a-tlu
uad from the Navy fl-.ard marN
Hudgsou went around Captain N.rr-
s.eH fur 30 Yards. McCuarn replaced
kennedy Hodgsou plunged center
for twY then Prlehard forward ras-
cl .u >eyIaud ON Navy .f1 lIr.
EnuedI.f made the iuu,hduEr Tho
try lt 1oII failed. Score HrHs
>ttN. DO
.HIo-.aa.A replaced N... Done
rdl.J tool. tle siakaU ua.. An. .HlI..
tb.H tre eld forward pass ir.. n.rd
io M,IrIIat, eaiucd 20 ttrd .Ul Gaze
BON H. 700 Na.ys f0-Eari .Hr
The middle. recovered ... DAM aH
downs .H .u,.r 35-yard .u. mainly
he.aI. 1889 forward u.sa. bundled.
HsIaefI came back Dob g.HH .u
place. U.- uHte- .Hg'I bot aH. I'd.
h. uIri,d. The E..e was returned
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28

Due ui tho sure-t WAYS col .mprs
ing historical facts ou lh. minds .i
readers. students and amusement
seekers is through th, avenue of ra-
nance THAI Mr. Georle KI..ur ra-
recognized This fa,t is evidenced ulr
uDularly ln his latest Zig photo
drama production. For Napoleon
and France. which viii ao the Ht.
traction at the Pastims thea5er zoe
morrow
Although rcplcte with Spectacular
ulffI' scenes that cannot fa.l tu enc
isiall the auditors. They au. fotul tN.
background Tor tEc Romance that
ursdomiu3te- The stuTs OF fni-
great uh0t.duua raI.to- fHHf cap.
ttIu Iar..e decorated FOR .a..r
hero boz thr eyes uf hIs country. .ud
%" nrofite of Napoleon, Heonmc4 the
lion of the French court -taou
stepped iu immortality. where lntrIsu,
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28
DALLAS PUTS FREE
MARKET ON FEDERAL
BUILDING SITE

Washington, Nrr s Assistant
secretary NeWton oft the treasury too
day granted permission Co the city 90
Dallas Irsas to establish "a free open
market on a federal building site re-
GENTLY huusIt by the government
Farmers and truck a%ardoaors may
place their products on sale without
paying fees NJ tho experiment works
wei Boa Dallas. the plan may be-
adopted Boo other cities where the
government has several hundred un-
occupied huii4lng sites which. in the
ordinary course uf events. may De
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28

Manchester England Nov u.s..
WR Applegarth today Wresied the
world's i%o0lNard professional cham
pionship from Jack Donaldson of
south Africn FOR several years the
worlds champion professional sprint
60 AupleEarth. who wAs the Brit
ism amateur champion Splinter and
became "a professional "a few months
aRo won ths race by six inches.
There was "a side bet OF $1,000.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28
STOCKTON EDITOR
JAILED FOR CONTEMPT

stockton, Cal. NoN 2S-F r. la
morcau2. editor of the stockton La
Dor News. wac sentenced today Co
serve nNc days in the county iall and
60 pay % fIe If $3.50 FOR contempt
by judge a. ". Norton OF the sur
pcrior court. LamocrcNuN began
serving hIs sentence at once
sN other labur leaders cited for
contempt were adludsed not guilty
hy the court.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28
R E PROMISED IN
NEW YORK CHICKEN CASE

Nou York. Nov - With twenty
nt poultry dealers under suspicion
OF having conspired to brine about
the death on Barnet Haf, who was
shot and killed in the street here
Tuesday night, arrests within "a
hours were promised by the police
today
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28
TURKEY NssURES u
MAILS WILL re PROTECTED

Washington, % 2h.-TuTkeV has
rgsurcd the United states that mails
between the embassy 90 Constant
uople and the %cunrulates scattered
throughout the country viii Dee safe
guarded Ilasmuch as dispatches
have been coming through boo code
from Ambassador Moreeuthau ana
other agents in Tho ottoman empire.
% appears that the vigorous protests
of the United states AGAINST the cro-
posal of thc porte 20 restrict c"de
communication between 1eutrais have
Lccu effective.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28

Herald want. o nnes-a times
dimes.
The evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1914-1922, 1914-11-28

~ tho Herald want ad do your
work.