davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-11-08

Tw7HY is it that in Washington the
w emergency woman is so hard to
" find when she is most needed!
This emergency, odd-job or all-round
woman may find work that is profitable
at any time she chooses. especially at
this season of holiday entertaining and
social events of every description.
To refined women of no particular
talent except that of general home
making, who must face the problem of
bread winning, this line of work oners
an excellent field and one that not only
pays well, but gives the worker hef
own time and the privilege of her own
home and she is more Independent than
if she worked in an Office. and yet there
are few women in Washington doing
this sort of work.
She is wonderfully useful when an
entertainment is planned by persons
who need carefully to consider expense,
and for So a day she does what ca
terer will charge many times as mucn
for. besides her work has that nome
like quality that makes 1t a dellgnt 10
guests and hostess alike. When Wed.
ding is on she will help in all sorts OF
ways. from packing to attending the
door and dressing the bride ana ner
maids. In cases of death in the family
she is invaluable. She knows just now
to help in the details of the funeral ar,
rangementS so as to give the bereaVed
family the least trouble and pain. and
at such times is mainstay and COM
fort.
She can take out-of-town guests
shopping or sightseeing when the host
ess is tired and bring them back TO a
rested and bright-eyed woman. or she
will stay and get the meals while the
guests are taken around by the mis-
tress of the house. She is also capable
of judicious shopping. and may be
trusted to do such things.
The emergency woman fills any gap
in the domestic fabric at a moments S
notice. y falpily in ordinary clrcum-
Evening star., 1914-11-08

ing back the full swing of this fashion
until later in the season, when they count
on it for combating a dull season in
ideas. 1t will give people a new reason
to buy if the really wide skirts are
take the place Of the frocks from Paris
which are advanced by the French de-
signers for the early season on the
Riviera and in Cairo.
The tight long sleeve is well estab-
lished and perhaps no woman needs a
warning against the kimono shape,
which is still shown in many garments
1t is tolerated only when the sleeve
reaches to the wrist and when It ID
tight below the elbow, but this is the
only form in which it should be con-
sidered by a woman buying new
clothes.
we .l.s-. A.i.aA. is much better in
Evening star., 1914-11-08
MOTORS, CHAUFFEUR,
AND THE PASSENGER

propriate far more appropriate. 1t
seems. than was the old dfashioned
coachman's uniform of top hat and
bulky coat.
For usual wear the chauffeur has
suit of whipcord or some other pre-
scribed cloth. with trim jacket but
toned quite to the collar. The cap and
black leggins and black or tan gloves
complete this costume. A heavy cloth
overcoat. sometimes with fur collar and
cuffs, and a fur coat for severely cold
weather. are also necessary. The chauf-
feurs livery may match the ,car-black
livery with a black car, maroon livery
with maroon car; or gray livery may
be the rule.
Motor cars are now SO much a matter
of convenience that one usually wears
such clothes as one day prescribes in
-the motor On touring trip taken for
the pleasure of the trip. OF course, one
dresses for the part.
But even when going about from shop
to shop or from house to house one
must take some cognizance of the fact
that one is motoring. OF course. IL the
hat is of the sky-scraping variety that
still persists, one must perforce sit on
the floor of the motor. There Is no
other way of accommodating the hat
under the low top. But one must have
"a warm coat that is roomy and COM
Portable to wear over the street clothes
on cold days, and fur foot warmers are
almost a necessity for evenings that
are cold. There should be a warm coat
or cape. too, for evening wear. one to
slip over the thinner evening cape worn
after one leaves the motor.
For touring there are some really
delightful new velour caps, becoming
things that fit well down over the fore
head and ears, that remain where they
are mt without the assistance of either
veil or pins They can be had to match
the velour lap robes. Fur or fur-lined
gloves, too, should be part of the
winter equipment of any woman who
goes about in an uncovered car in cold
Weather A. muff is not adequate for
keeping the hands warm. for there
are many times when the fingers must
be withdrawn, to adjust a slipping robe
or to fasten the collar or pull the cap
or veil into position.
Evening star., 1914-11-08

every way, for the perversion of the
armhole has been nuisance to the
wearer. No sleeve is as comfortable as
the one set into a regulation armhole
that is properly cut. All, there's the
rub. When is the armhole well placed =?
Once out of twelve times. 1t is too
small or too large, too far over the
arm-the usual trouble-or too deep at
the back. In the cut of a simple arm
hole there is needed the highest mas
terry of ones trade as cutter!
Coats or loose blouses that have the
raglan sleeve are not to be avoided
This season that especial shape is ac-
cepted and it is exceptionally comfort
able. 1t is not strictly fashionable
mind you. and it does not look well on
every shoulder. but there is no reason
against buying a garment which has it.
if the purchaser likes it.
The elbow sleeve in every form is
Evening star., 1914-11-08

gay bits of color known as Roman
stripes and which the girls in Italy
wear at all seasons. regardless of the
fashion. They are attractive and they
do help to give color to somber suit,
but like all features that have merit,
they have been overdone.
Even as belts on one-piece frocks
they have been discarded, giving place
to splendid girdles of ornate Chinese
embroidery. AS waistcoats they have
been replaced by fur.
All stripes have not vanished from
the fashions. The broadly marked silks
like those worn during the French
revolution have been revived for whole
gowns. not for trimmings, and there is
wonderful new fabric for evening
gowns woven in gold and black stripes,
the former being the foundation fabric
something like cloth of gold.
Most of these striped materials are
Evening star., 1914-11-08

Sympathy for the devastation of other
lands and other trades should not keep
us from helping in every way our own
trade centers. and if it is possible to
spend. we should spend. 1t is not
the time to hoard. 1t may be the
psychological season to compel lower
prices in the fashionable places that
Evening star., 1914-11-08

AcHE uneasy feeling that prevailed
among the dressmakers, and
especially the importers, con-
cerning fashions in August, has
Evening star., 1914-11-08
down over the hips in June, has remained

down over the hips in June, has remained
there.
But there are many features in
clothes that the shops still offer and
that the dressmakers (not the high
priced ones) go on Incorporating into
gowns which should be avoided They
belong to a day that is done. Drapery
on skirts is one. No matter what fea
accept or desires to have moderated. the
skirt drapery of the last year is to be
| ignored.
Nothing that rises on the hips,
Dutch trouser-like, is the fashion. al
though there are women who cling to
good cloth street suits made on this
model, and make the best of it, but that
| is no reason for a new purchase of this
description.
X
If one wishes, by the way. to go to
the trouble of altering such a skirt, it
is well to remember that Callot in
vented a new fashion for arranging
| the fullness at the sides of the waist
| line that falls in very neatly with the
!! momentary desire to do away with the
panniers left over from last spring; it
| consists in laying the cloth in pleats
that are not stitched or pressed fiat,
| but left to stand out They are open
| at the top.
| The present pannier can easily be ar
ranged into these pleats with it's sell
| wedge showing along the top. The fact
that the usual pannier skirt has all its
fullness at the hips and none at the hem
initiates against it's serving for more
| than a makeshift. Wear it in the house
| for dinner, is the advice of a good dress
maker.
| Bear in mind when searching for new
clothes that all the various loops and
| folds and tucks that disfigured our coats
last year are happily absent. We are
dressed now in straight lines. which is
the most suitable choice for the average
Anglo-Saxon figure. Whatever is plain
over the hips Is good. provided it is not
| too attenuated at the hem
| True, the American woman or her
dressmaker is not prone to follow the
new law for wide skirts. 1t may be that
the American commercialists are hold
Evening star., 1914-11-08
Cold Weather Hint,

A WINDOW. that does not fit tight
"A enough to exclude the cold can be
closed with a strip of muslin. Dip the
muslin into cold flour paste. not boiled.
and place 1t around the window sash.
If YOU wish to take 1t Off at any time,
catch one end of the material and pull
it Off. This is an Improvement over pa
per or the much used passe partout The
latter is excellent where a window is to
remain closed ll.winter.
Evening star., 1914-11-08

but the ingrown sense that one has been
unwise and careless or injudicious in
spending money on garments that are
wrong, If continually kept in the front
of ones mind. will go far toward estab-
fishing prudent and tempered buying.
There are many women who have
their hands so full of more important
matters in the autumn than the buying
Of clothes that they wait until this time
to fit themselves out. having only the
haziest notion on the subject of style.
They are well aware that long coats are
somewhat more in fashion than short
ones, that skirts are wider than they
were. that long sleeves have been revived.
and that the waist line, which Slipped
Evening star., 1914-11-08

used for full skirts guiltless of trim
ming and topped by half-fitted bodice
of velvet in some brilliant color. Once
and awhile they come dangerously near
fancy dress, a feature in the new styles
that has decidedly changed during the
last two years.
Evening star., 1914-11-08

way lies economy, and yet it is during
Just such times as these that one gets
the reputation for knowing less about
the choice of clothes than one really
merits. Women have had their credit
for taste eclipsed by two months con-
stant appearance in the wrong clothes.
Thus do we often suffer i'll in a good
cause.
This is a seasonable time to look well
into the merits and demerits of ones
methods of buying, and after a salts
factory conclusion is reached, one is
better able to grasp a few free days
out of the turmoil of things and go
with clearer viewpoint. Taking stock
of ones failures is an exceedingly wise
thing to do at least twice a year, and
while this is not a moral preachment.
this same trick of investigating ones
more serious failures leads to admir-
able new adjustments Using stepping
stones of our dead selves to higher
things, as St. Augustine put it, is a
valuable lesson to learn in every de-
partment of personal development.
I know a woman who, feeling that
her genius for buying wrong or useless
clothes Kept her badly dresseo' dhu'
worse still, convicted her of turning
| money to bad account. asked a friend
| of excellent taste. small purse and
high reputation for always being well
dressed, to go over her wardrobe and
point out the instances where she had
done wrong.
The friend did it with entire candor
and helpful criticism. Everything wrong
was put down in a book with its cost
annexed. and that which was right was
treated in the same way. The result
was disheartening for the time, but of
inestimable value for the future.
written conviction of so much
wrong buying with money that was
earned by hard labor and given to one
for wise spending goes deeper under the
skin than any self-persuasion to do bet
ter, which usually ends in f1ounderng
into the same old mistakes.
| One cannot expect to leap into the
right way of remedying wrong method,
Evening star., 1914-11-08

second-class. Even in informal dinner
gowns and blouses it does not rank
with it's two successors-the directoire
and the Grecian One shows all the
arm or none. That is the law.
1t is far better to look the other way
should a persuasive seller offer those
Evening star., 1914-11-08
The Square Train.

! of the new importations. 1t IL
especially good when it is used on q
frock with a square-cut neck. back and
front, just as the long pointed train
was good with a frock in which the
N-shaped neck was used.
Evening star., 1914-11-08

>pHE uneasy feeling that prevailed
among the dressmakers, and
especially the importers, con-
cerning fashions in August, has
in some measure returned The
wholesalers have arrived at the ,lme oi
tho wear when they put out new clotnes
for the spring trade, and the fasnlonapie
shops and dressmaking places depeho
unon their buyers in Paris to send them
advance spring midwinter styles TO
I,aen trade brisk until after the New
Year
Now there are no new things in Paris
and few buyers. America is trying 10
erect tho du1Iness ahead by twisting and
turning old ideas into new ones and oHer-
;re, clothes and STYLES that will replenish
needy wardrobes and supply the trunks
that are checked for the SOUTH ihe
former is the more important WORK
rrhora are thousands of women who
nut off buying new winter things untli
they were comfortably settled 1or the
cold weather: until vacation days were
entirely finished; until the house was pa
pered or painted, the plumbing ioohe''
after; the parlor curtains hune. 'he
dining room done over, perhaps anu
the hall recarpeted. Such is talr anu
average estimate of what the American
woman has before her each autumn
:: K
sbe NAV be rich or poor, fashionable
or questionable living an overerowd-
"a ar comparatively empty life-but
So tho fall she must and be confront
ed with its burdens. the heaviest OF
r1-l,n vi
and tear. the hustle and hustle renew
;nn .nd d;scarding of household things.
the planning and DEVELOPMENT or ne"
schemes the smoke and the CRIME from
a manufacturing continent. each ana
all irnportant factors in American life.
roach a crisis in the weeks that stretch
from the fifteenth of September to the
fifteenth of December. Like death ana
taxes there is no escaping it. l verify
believe the rabbit in his burrow, the
chipmunk in his tree hole, go through
similar. if reduced process.
The women who have children must
also face the marshaling of their young
into the schoolroom, arranging for the
change in the lazy and careless break
fast hours that creep up through the
summer, and seeing to a plentiful ward
robe that will take the youngsters
through the first six months of w'"ter,
and carry the girls at boarding school
and the boys at college through the sea-
son.
And so. depending on the absorption
that such onerous and exhausting du-
ties demand. the shops await their turn
10 garner in the toll for clothes at this
time. War or no war, We OF America
must be clothed. and there is no reason
why the clothes should not be good to
look at and as rich as our purse can
buy.
Sympathy for the devastation of other
lands and other trades should not keep
us from helping in every way our own
trade centers. and if it is possible to
spend. we should spend. 1t is not
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04

vention of the President and his positive stand with both operatives and operators of these roads has averted for the time being a strike that would have cost the producers of the country hundreds of mill lions of dollars.
 The general opinion here is that the south is to be the greatest sufferer in this country because of the great European struggle. If Congress by lberalizing the laws of registration can induce enough ships to register under the American flag to partly save our commerce, it is con ceded that the major portion of exports from this country must of necessity be food, and such supplies as Europe must have to prosecute a war of any duration.
 Cotton in Europe
 The cotton industry of all Europe will be paralzed. This will leave the immense cotton crop of this country to be taken care of almost entirely at home, except such portions of it that can be sent to South America and to China. There is one faint glimmer of hope to the cotton producers and dealers in the United States for a European market for part of their product, and that is that Great Britain with her great navy may so dominate the seas that England can absorb some Of the cotton crop, and that her ally Japan will also be purchaser.
 It is conceded that if the war is of any great duration the export cotton usually sent to Germany and Russia is doomed
 The talk of soaring prices for food in the United States has somewhat subsided. Meat will undoubtedly advance because what little meat Is imported into the United States will have greater induce ments in price to drift to Europe With limited facilities of shipping to Europe however, it is not believed with, the im- mense crops produced this year in the United States that the people of this coun- try will be called upon to pay unusually high prices for the ordinary articles of food Even the shipments annually made by the big packing houses of Chicago of meat to Europe may be cut. down, on ac- count of the limitation on ships. and thus tend to offset the prices of meat.
 The department of commerce is already
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
STRENUOUS EFFORT ID GET SHIPS ID HANDLE PRODUCTS South Will Feel DemOraliza- tiOn in Cotton Industry
 in Europe EFFORT TO BUILD
 MERCHANT MARINE Underwood Calls This the Most Seri- ous Economic Situation That Has Confronted the Nation ..
 in Many Years
By c. E. STEWART

Washington. August 3--(Specia1) )-There the administration and of the leaders of Congress since the alarming developments in Europe to take some action that would save American commerce, threatened by the withdrawal of foreign ships from the seas. Coupled with this menace, was the double one of strike of 9S western rail- roads, completely tying up tho great wheat crop of the country. to say noth- ing of the other perishable food supplies handled by these roads, amounting to nearly 2ooo cars day The timely inter-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
Encourage Merchant Marine

Representative Underwood, who has for years contended for congressional support or some character for a merchant marine, declared that the present situation would rouse the people to a sense of their de- pendence upon foreign nations for the handling of their commerce.. and after that was accomplished. the public would demand action by the Congress and the result would be the building up of our merchant marine to q high standard of efficiency such it enjoyed 50 or @ years ago.
 Mir Underwood said that the present situation, with a general European war stern reality. was "the most serious economic situation that had confronted the nation for years"
 The greatest sufferers, too, outside of the south, which will get the seyerest blow because of it's cotton industry. are the western states with their immense crops of foodstuffs, and whose represen- tatives in Congress have been constant stumbling blocks to any kind of legisla- ton looking toward the restoration of the former prestige of the American merchant marine. If no relief is effected the im- mense wheat crop of the west to a great extent will rot In the bins of the pro- ducers while Europe goes hungry
 As to the outcome of the war, opinion is divided here Many believe that the War Lord of Europe is doomed, and that the German empire will crumble before the combined attack of France and Rus sia by land and that the great navy of England will destroy her upon the seas. On the other hand. Germany has some support here in the circle of war experts. who point to her immense torpedo fotilla and declare that with the training this fleet of sea wasps'' have had in attack ing the enemy at night without lights they will give the Sbig ships of the Brit
 sh navy plenty of action.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
PLAN FIGHT ON
 SOCIAL DISEASES

Philadelphia, August 3-A nation wide fight to stamp out social diseases in the United States by placing all pa tients under government supervision Was started here today by the annual conventipn of the American Osteopathic association. More than POO osteopaths are in attendance
 A resolution adopted asks the CO., operation of every school of practice in having state laws passed to make compulsory the reporting of all cases of social diseases to established state bnreaus.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
S. Williams for president of the council,

$. Williams. for president of the council. received T3o
 The vote for aldermen in the various wards follow:
 o. N. Alexander, 40; Lawrence Harry. 2lo; L. s. Hollingsworth, 3ss; J. W. Mall iory' 4zS; J. M. Bagley, 34s; J. T. Carter. zos; C. A. Hamilton, 421; D. G. waldronl Al; A. s. McGee, 46S; c. E. Pauley, 4sl \ Claude Settles. 4s5; W. G. Collier, 2s4: J. E Gardner, ess; J. W. McClurkin, 4s1, J. C. Evans. 555; Lamar Jeffers. 421: Harry Powell, s4e.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
Reds Humble Giants

New York, August 3.-Cincinnati made it four out of five from New York by dividing a double header with the champions today. New York won the first game easily to 2. while the visi- tors won the second 5 to 4. Herzog, knocked unconscious in collision with Becker in the eighth inning of the first game, was carried off the field, but re- vived and put up wonderful fielding exhibition in the second game. Scores.
 FIRST GAME
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
W|KLE REELECTED MAYOR OF ANN|STON Williams Chosen President of COuncil-Five Alder
 men Elected

Anniston, August 3.-(Special) 1.-The city primary was held today when mayor
 president of the council and aldermen from five wards were elected. The cleo tior was the quietest in years and very light vote cast about 500 being boiled in all. Mayor Willle, who had no opposition. received s16 votes, while John
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
Rome Loses in Twelfth

Rome, August 3.-(Special )-In a pitchers battle that went 12 innings Rome was bested by Anniston to 8 ir the opening game of the series Aaron and Killingsworth were both in fine form and some fast ball was played. Rome tied the score in the seventh and then there were four scoreless innings until Killingsworth won his own game by stinging out a single following an error and a base on balls Score:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04

being besieged for instructions regarding registry of ships. Undoubtedly many ships built by American capital now fly Ing foreign flags will take advantage of the liberalfzed laws and come under the protecting wing of Uncle Sam There is no doubt, also. that out of the present
 situation there will grow a sentiment in
 the countrq, as 1t Is now growing in Con- gress. 10 do something tangible for the upbuilding of the American merchant ma
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
GA. l..
Selma Hits Ball Hard

Newman, Ga. August S.-(Special. )-Sel- ma defeated Newman, to ?, today by hitting the ball hard with men on bases. Teddy could not use his spit ball, and the Selmians found no trouble in solving his delivery. King pitched air tight ball after the first inning, holding Newman hitless thereafter. Score:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04
Eagles Meet in Kansas City

Kansas City. August 3.-The six teenth annual meeting of the grand aclie of the Fratsrnal Order of Eagles vas called to orderthere tonight. Rich E,ond and Savannah are among the can didates for the 1915 convention.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04

summary: IWO-baSe hits. Kimbrell Brooks, Vasterling, E. Cowan. Home runs, Long, Kimball, Burke. Double play, Averton. w. Cowan to vasterling Sacri- flee hits, Guitterez 2, W. Cowan Brooks. Base on balls, Teddy 2, Kimball g. Struck out, Teddy l. Kimball 1. Wild pitch, Kim ball. Time, 1:35. Umpire, White
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-08-04

summary SacriHce hits, Daley, Cook, Heiiman Stolen bases, Nunamaker, MaiseL Double play, Covaleski, Moriar- ty to Burns. Bases on balls, CovaIeskt ty to Burns. Bases on balls, Covaieski (Cook). Struck out, Covaleski f. Time, 1:3o. Empires, Evans and Egan.