The Washington herald., 1914-04-16

demand for this material It is well 10
include blouses of both material in the
trousseau.
| All waists are plain-that is without
fullness given by means of tucks, pIaits
or gathers. This rule may be varied to
a slight degree when the blouse is for
a stout figure. In that case a deep tuck,
or plait is sometimes found necessary at
the shoulders. close to the arms, In order
TO give sufficient fullness over the bust
TO have the blouse set WELL When such
| tucks are used they are not made a fea-
I ture of the waist, and often are not
stitched. but the goods simply folded ard
stitched in the shoulder seam. When the
blouse has a kimono shoulder the fold
| OF the goods is tackled in place by hand
at the top of the arm. The only differ
! ence in making a waist Of this kind and
| one such as pictured is that the shoulder
OF the kimono is cut sufficiently long to
allow for the plat, and when the sleeve
| is set and there is a shoulder seam the
goods at the front of the waist is cut
wider.
kfmono Model of Figured Crepe.
To copy the kimono blouse pictured, as
guide for cutting, any ordinary pat
tern OF that style may be used. The ma
terial employed for this waist was a
figured cotton crepe, q inches wide,
SOSlS S--JO ne making, OF
course, is almost nothing. because the
only seams are those under the arms
Fitting is not even TO be thought Of for
these blouses hang perfectly straight.
The bloused effect at the waist line is
however. important, because on this de-
ponds the whole style of the waist. To
get the material to hang correctly at
this point slip the blouse on and cross
the front. as pictured. Place in an
inch wide piece of tape around the waist.
over the goods, and pin it in place. Ad-
just the material so that ii hangs straight
from the shoulders and then pull it up
until there is pretty blouse. Basic the
material to the tape. and when the waist
is taken of run a row of stitching along
both edges of the tape. Many of the new
waists have the material cut away below
the tape and no other finish. Those who !
fear that the waist may slide up when |
worn. if finished in this way. may add |
circular peplum. a knife plated friIl |
of net is used to finish the neck front |
closing and the sleeves
Tailored Design of silk.
The silk blouse pictured is a little
more tailored in appearance than the one
OF cotton. although not any of the new
waists could. strictly speaking, be called |
tailored. This waist has the regulation
V neck and an exaggerated large arm
hole in which a good-sized. almost shape
less, sleeve is set The shaping of this.
armhole is very smart. and the girl who
Is looking for something new in the way
of silk shirtwaist will do well to copy
IL The waist is perfsetIy pIefn both
back and front with a shawl collar of
the material. The blousing and finishing
at the waistline is arranged in exactly
the same way as the cotton crepe. With
this waist is Worn a wide, white patent
leather belt.
The cuffs on the sleeves are out OF
the ordinary in shape, and in all prob
aolllty II VIII not be possible to get a
pattern that can be used for them. but
by taking a piece of paper and shaping
IT, pattern can be made that will serve
the purpose. To effect the closing at the
'front.' either pearl or crystal buttons NAV
be used.
Next week lingerie for the trousSeau
VIII be pictured and described.