The Yale expositor., 1914-05-07
buttons and buttonhofes. The blouse
is then finished with belt-in MILDLY
fashion.

buttons and buttonhoies The blouse
is then finished with a belt-in MILDLY
fashion.
Allowance for Growth.
Make allowance for growth by hav-
ing deep hens to the skirt and cut
ting the blouse long enough to turn
up-if the material Is not too heavy.
BY Joining the skirt and waist and
setting the belt on top the needed
length for the next year can be Sc
cured by ripping the two portions Of
the garment and Joining again by sew
ing the lower edge of the blouse to
the upper edge of the belt.
The one-piece dress hung from the
shoulder with peasant sleeves is ex-
tremely easy to make, even by the nov
ice. Such a model cen be developed
in variety Of ways, SO the one pat
tern will answer fer half a dozen diff
ferent little school frocks.
When making up the heavy materials.
especially those that fray easily. bind
the seams with the folded cotton bind.
ing that can be bought by the piece
or yard, or wide cotton tape can be
used. Instead OF turning in the hem.
which makes for bulk, cover the raw
edges with the tape or binding and ad-
Just to the outside either by machine
stitching or by hand hemming. Where
the child grows rapidly it is wiser to
hem by hand and always do it in sheer
materials
For one Of the morning frocks
choose simple one-piece pattern with
the straight kimono sleeves ending
just below the elbow, and the skirt
falling from the shoulder in scant
straight lines. Open up the middle of
the back and finish with an inch-wide
bias strip as one finishes a placket of
a skirt. Fasten with bone or crochet
holes are necessary. In material that
ravels these should be bound with
linen or cotton binding.
Proper Care of the Seam.
There Is but one seam, that under
the arm, in the one-piece sleeve.
For the sheerer materials make a
neat French seam. binding the ratines,
eponge, and heavy linen. Have at
least a fiveInch hem ut the bottom OF
the skirt. This Is turned up when the
Cut the neck in a shallow square front
and back and finish with a narrow
facing Hem the bottom of the
straight sleeve.
Another dress cut from this pattern
may be opened slightly in the left OF
the middle front from the neck to the
hem, the back being cut in a straight
piece. Cut the neck in shallow In
front and straight round in the back.
End the sleeves about the elbow,
cutting in a bias line an inch and a
half higher on the back of the arm
than at the crotch Of the elbow. Face
around the neck and down each side
of the front to the bottom Of the skirt
with an inch and quarter wide ia
cling Allow a half inch for seams.
Hem the sleeves to the same depth.
With these two simple models four
varied dresses can be made. One of
the square-necked frocks can be de-
veloped in butter colcred crasN or cot
ton crepe, with trimmings of Chinese
blue linen. Cut a she ped band for the
neck three and half inches deep in
the middle front and back and
slashed to form tabs. The middle one
is about half the width Of the neck
opening and an inch and a quarter
deep, then cut out a horizontal line
to each side of this center tab, ending
slightly beyond the width Of the neck
square, where another vertical slash
of three-quarters of an inch is made,
a horizontal one of an inch, and from
there the trimming is sloped over the
shoulder to meet similar cuts at the
back Of the neck.
Banding and Stitching.
This banding is cut just the shape
of the neck, opening at the top and
Joined to it by slip stitching, or is
basted in a seam with the facing,
which is later turned and hemmed
down. The bottom is turned up q
quarter inch, carefully basted to the
frock, and stitched by machine or
slip stitched closely.
The sleeve is trimmed with slni.
larly squared bands, the shaped piece
being an inch wide strip on the In
side of the arm, coming on the outside
OF the sleeve. For the belt cut a
straight band three inches wide front
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