davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-10-18
America Takes a Hand at Designing

Realizing that the question is vital
and that II American dressmakers do
not try their hand at some strong work
along this line there will be danger of
trade falling off, the New York firms
signing will give a series of original
costumes at the Ritz-Carlton in New
York during the first week in Novem-
Der. Such fashion leaders as Mrs.
Stuyvesant Fish. Mrs. Vincent Aston
and Mrs. Borden Hartman will be the
patronesses of the show, and the jury
will be made up of those who are able
to detect French gown from an origi-
nal American one.
IN order to lure great numbers of
women to see these gowns. there will
be dancing and tea and brilliant din
ners and luncheons. The opening night
viii see the entire restaurant of the
Ritz-Carlton taken by fashiona BILE
women at dinner preceding the show,
and it is rumored that some of the
iovei1est actresses in New York will
display the gowns in the afternoon.
The contest is to be very exclusive.
The organizers of it, who were the
editors of the Vogue, believe that it
will be entirely unsuccessful if it is
not entirely smart. Only those Dress
tele and social following will exhibit.
Whether or not this project will have
an Influential voice in the movement
toward homemade fashions depends
entirely on the quality of originality
and beauty which these dressmakers
can provide.
One thing Is true: they cannot sue
coed In one fell swoop. A designer is
not created by a contest 1t is a prob
lem that needs the try, try again"
b -
financial value. France has been
trained for centuries in the designing
of clothes just as Germany has been
trained in the science of war. Each
has become the most powerful machine
of its kind in the world
And now a truce to discussion. Let
US get to facts. What are you buying
in the way of new autumn clothes, and
what need are you struggling to sup
ply? Is it street suit, or an evening
gown. or an afternoon frock for which
you have the strongest desire? Are
you trying to decide between velvet
and cloth. between net and chiffon? If
so. perhaps a story of what is worn
will help you to a decision.
The onepiece frock is trif1e more
important than the coat suit. This is
barking back to other times. Both
styles of garments are in the market.
and the designers have evolved novel
and interesting ideas in both. If a
woman can afford frocks and suits IN
her winter wardrobe. she is lucky in
deed, and she need not fret her mind
as to which will give the best service.
If woman cannot go about with a
well-f1lled purse or an elastic charge
account, she might have the one-piece
frocks made at home, or by the little
| dressmakers who are becoming scarce
since the large shops threw out such
a vast number of ready-to-wear CLONES
at small prices
She alone can be the judge of what
style of suit is the best to buy, but she
must beware of the overlong coat and
the overlong skirt. If the skirt were
| narrow, the silhouette would be ex-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-10-18

the ocean would strike to the French
woman who is not traveller by nature
or experience.
| had long. serious talk with Nine
Joire. the sister-in-law Of Nine. Paquin
and the wife of the business manager Of
the house. before 1 left Paris. This talk
was in regard to the advent of the house
OF Paquin into New York. 1t had been
often rumored last winter that such
happening might be expected. but Nine
paquln thought it would not be fair at
that time to go into rivalry against the
houses which carried SO many of her
models in season. But. here Is a different
situation. If the house of Paquin was
not able In the month of August to get
suhcient workers to carry on her open
lngs she surely cannot expect to get
them this winter. True. as Nine. Joire
said, where would she get the marvellous
materials and the colors and embroid-
cries and metals that Paris SO layishly
provides to its dressmakers? The answer
to this is that she could not get the nov
elites and probably she could not get the
color1ng that is the produce only of the
french dyerS, but she could bring her
brains to America and her ideas and
live through her power for designing
Why Not Create in New York;
She cannot get these materials in
France this winter. Should she, there
fore. go out of business as q creator?
London would not buy clothes after the
Americans left. The end of the war is
decidedly indefinite, so why not come
to New York and create directly for
American women with American fab
RIGS? This was the gist Of the CONVEX
sation she had with me and, therefore.
one may not be surprised by an inya-
sion from this source.
The Boue sisters. who have quite a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-10-18

ginning Of the war, longer than it ever
was before. If the American was con-
turn she made in trying to get home.
think what terror the idea Of going across
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-10-18

The bodices of the latest dance frocks
are merely a wide girdle which fits the
figure closely and Is held over the Shout
ders by narrow straps Of the material or
strands of beads
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-10-18

bands of soft, Roman-striped ribbon
with big. rosettelike bow on top.
This box of candy is truly attractive
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-10-18

REALLY SKIRTS
WITH MONKEY FUR
OF PALE GREEN SILK
BRoCADED THE FRONT
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-01-12
THE OTHER END

There, lad, it's a bonnie lass
you've married, and wish you both
joy" said the old minister, as he
gazed at the beaming faces of the
young couple he had just united.
You're getting to end of all your
troubles now" he added encourag-
ingly to the bridegroom.
Time went on, as time will, and
a few months later the old minister
met the young fellow who had start
ed matrimony with such a smiling
face.
'You look pretty miserable, my
friend" said he.
well might, came the sulky an
swer. 81 thought you told me in the
church as how I'd got to the end OF
all my troubles"
"Ah, so l did, lad" said the min
lister, with a glimmer in his eye, but
l didn't say which endp'
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-01-12
AN UNEXPECTED GIFT

He was shy young man, but in
his heart there ragged consuming
passion foE>the fair Florence. On his
way home from the city he managed
to screw his courage up sufficiently
to enter a jewelers. shop and pur-
chase a small gift for the lady of his
heart.
This, he hoped, would pave the
way to the popping Of the great
question. (.
That night he called at her house
and found her alone. Producing a
small, square box from his pocket,
he said nervously:
81 have Ventured to bring you a
small present, Miss Finn, but 1 am
afraid that perhaps it VIII not fit
your finger. VIII you try it on?"
ooh, DEAR said the girl blushing
most becomingly, this is quite unex-
pected! Why, 1 never dreamed that
you really cared enough"
Poor fool! Instead Of graspfng the
opportunity in both hands, he open
ed the box and produced a thimble!
Then the thermometer dropped about
ten degrees!
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1914-01-12
GOOD IDEA

I'll He entered the meteorological of
flee, and said, in his jerky way: \
! This here's where you give out
I weather predictions, amt it?"
| The clerk nodded.
| well" continued the old man, 81
though as how 1 would come I'D and
give you some useful tips"
| ''Yes?" said the clerk, politely.
| 1--we watched very carefully, an
| find that ye amt always right"
tx mo; we sometimes make mis-
I takes"
"Course you do. We all do some
times. Now, was thinlIin' as how a
i1ine that used to be on the auction
handbills down in our county might
do fust-rate on your weather predic-
lions, and save you lot of ex-
plainin'"
what was the ine?"
| Wind an weather permittin'"
!, He went down without waiting to
say goodbye.
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

Gretchen Hood. who 10 to appear in
the role of Marguerite in Gounod's opera
of Faust with the Aborn Grand Eng
lish Opera Company at the National
Theater next Monday evening is a Wash
ington girl who has practically devoted
her entire life to the study of music.
In a sense the success that has attended
her career is a tribute to the value Of
the musical course of the public schools
Of the District of Columbia. for Gretchen
Hood is a product of Washington's edu-
cational facilities and today her name Is
well known to many of the teachers and
the girls who were pupils in the high
schools here. for the signal ability she
displayed, as a vocal and instrumental
musician.
Years Of hard study under the best
private teachers in Washington. sup
plementing fundamental instruction re-
ceived In the grade schools. was followed
by a finishing course Of several years on
the continent Of Europe In recognition
of the strong tendency Of operatic pro-
ducers towards the modern French
school. Miss Hood spent most Of her
time In Europe in Paris, and in the
beautiful suburb Of Sevres acquiring
knowledge of the scores Of the brilliant
young French composers who feel that
but also Of today.
Then In Brussels the young singer had
an opportunity to study as next door
neighbor, the music Of the Fatheriand.
and meanwhile she did not NEGLECT the
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

coat. II the coat is unlined about two
yards Of silk, forty inches wide, will be
needed TO complete the garment. When
II is to be lined the same width material
must be used and it will require the same
number of yards.
Green Chiffon Striped silk Lining.
Model No. l. is of chiffon lined with
striped silk. White and a peculiar shade
Of Empire green were the colors of the
silk. In the original model the chiffon
was light. misty. gray-green color, that
when 1t veiled the vivid green and white
MADE 1t most attractive. This wrap can
easily be cut from a dropped shoulder
kimono waist pattern. If care Is taken to
cut the back long and to shape It as pic
tured.
To make this jacket in the easiest way
possible use a drooped shoulder kimono
waist pattern. and cut from a piece of
lining material jacket such as pictured.
Basic the under arm seams and fit to the
figure. This accomplished IL is ripped
apart and used as a pattern to cut the
silk To cut the chiffon cloth lay it
smoothly on a cutting table and baste
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

the silk TO Il around the edges. The
striped silk is used for the broad-shaped
collar.
shoulder Cape fn Quaint shape.
Model No s. shows a reproduction of
the quaintest of quaint old shoulder
capes 1t is of a prettily shaped piece
Of dull green taffeta, colored as pictured.
with a bias ruffie about four inches wide.
of the same silk, attached to the plain
piece by means of a very narrow cording.
The ruffie that forms the collar or neck
finish is shaped so that 1t Is considerably
wider at the back than II is at the point
where the closing Is effected. The plain
piece of silk that forms the back Is
shaped SO that the ends that drop In a
rounded point that is brought up and
caught to the collar. This garment viii
be much prettier II made entirely by
hand, and there is so little work required
to complete 1t that there is no reason
why 1t cannot be finished in that way
After ii is cut out the pieces that are
intended for the rufle must be Joined
with a French fell and the edge finished
with a narrow rolled hem. The cording
is then covered with a bias strip of the
silk and sewed between the seam that
joins the ruffle TO the cape. Another bias
strip of the silk Is used to face this seam
to the cape. The rufie at the neck is
Joined without the cording. but IL faced
to the cape in the same way as that on
the edge.
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

HOME DRESSMAKHNG|

Paris has gone mad. 50 TO speak. over
the dainty wraps OF the ladies Of long
ago." thSt are familiar to us >cnly as
they have been handed down in pic
lures. As to the value OF these when
real warmth is required not much can
be said in their favor. but then there
are lots of times when one needs only
q lightweight wrap over the shoulders.
to assure comfort, &C IL Is wise to take
dainty throws" for what they are worth.
and plan one or more for wear with
summer frocks. for fashion says they are
to be, and they surely DO enhance any
frock or gown with which they are worn
The materials from which they are
fashioned are the most beautiful that
the designer and manufacturer can pro-
duce, and the quaint little wraps them
selves show the ingenuity Of the clever
est modistes. Sometimes these shoulder
capes are specially made to top on a
certain gown, and then the material Is
selected. and the shaping made accord
.ngiy. In this way miladi would need
throw" for each dress. but most women
will be satisfied with one. and VIII try
to choose II so that II will do service
with several dresses. For such wrap
taffeta silk is a wise selection. This silk
Is extremely fashionable. and II may be
had In all the new colors and shades.
The soft weaves that are an innovation
Of the season. lend themselves nicely to
the fluffy models that are in vogue.
fwo-toned Effects for Innings.
Some of these wraps are lined and
some are fashioned from silk alone. In
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04
Summer Luncheons Are
Fashionable Just Non
Chilled Fruit Jeled Bouillon, Clam Cocktails Clam
Broth Splendid for First Course-Sweetbread
~Croquettes and Chicken for Second.

Chilled fruit. jellied bouillon (either
chicken or beeD. clam cocktails or clam
broth are all excellent to serve as q first
course for the summer luncheon. with
gelatine Of chicken, sweetbread croquettes.
panned chops, with green peas or plat
ter Of cold sliced chicken and tongue. gar
nished with aspic jelly as the second II
these two courses are followed with a
crisp. cold salad and a frozen or nodded
dessert. the latter accompanied by deli
cate cakes or waters. the result Is sum
mer luncheon that will appeal to any
guest
A variety of tempting sandwiches seems
to belong by rights especially to the tea
hour. but care should be exercised to
have the bread Of wafer-like thinness.
and the filling as appetizing and piquant
as possible. Always include a bit Of edible
green in their making. and particularly
good results are obtained from a mixture
Of cream cheese, watercress. chopped
nuts and sherry, or combination OF
chopped cucumber. minced green peppers.
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

salt. the graded rind and Juice Of halt
a lemon and one and one-half cupfuls Of
more -four. Cover and let rise until
light Mold over a board to horseshoe
shape and let rise a~ain- Bake twenty
minutes in a moderate oven.
These can be started the evening be-
fore, and if kept in a cool place can be
so timed as to have them hot from the
oven for luncheon.
Banana Daube-Take the bananas from
the skin. cut them in halves lengthwise
and again crosswise. Put six tablespoon
fuls Of olive oil in a frying pan. put in
the bananas and brown on both sides.
While they are cooking melt four table
spoonfuls OF sugar and when colored add
four tablespoonfuls OF water; stir until
the sugar is melted and lift the bananas
to a dish. Pour the sirup over and serve.
Expenses-Rhubarb, Sc: Goldfish. IL Ib.,
Sc; maple sugar, Ioc.: coffee and tea, Sc
potatoes and cheese. Sc; lamb stock, IL
lbs. Sc: bananas. Sc; rice. ! cup, &c !;
lettuce, cheese waters, 10c.; oranges C2),
Sc; cocoanut amount used. Sc; water
cress, 7c.: butter, IA h.. &C.: milk, ! OF,
&C.; cream. 1-2 pint. Sc; bread, &C. Total,
$40
Flour. sugar. seasoning. etc, mako
s1-5 In all.
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

grand old italian masters; q fortunate
circumstances in her career. as these
italian operas are now the main
features Of the repertoire of the Aborn
Company, with which she has for the
present cast her fortunes
1t was with this adequate preparation
that soon after her return from Europe
at the end Of last year. Miss Hood was
induced to consider the possibility Of
embarking at once upon a professional
career in this country. It had been her
intention to spend only a few weeks in
a vacation from her studies in Washing
ton and then to return to Europe 10
complete her work and endeavor to make
her debut on a Continental stage. oppor-
tunity for which had been offered her
through the friendship of Mime. Calve
and other personal admirers in Europe
In New York. however. she met Milton
Aborn. who was so impressed by her
talents as to accord her a private
audience and then to close Immediately
with her an engagement to appear as a
prima donna in connection with one of
his excellent companies that are stimuli
taneously producing grand opera in
English in the larger Eastern cities
Miss Hoods operatic debut will be
made here next week when she will be
heard. as Marguerite in Faust"
1t Is understood that at the conclu-
sion of the present summer opera sea-
son Miss Hood will begin at once to
prepare herself for her appearance in
New York next fall with the Century
Opera Company.
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04
TO SERVE AT
THE HOME TABLE

BREAKFAST.
Stewed Rhubarb-
Creamed Goldfish with Croutons-
Graham Gems
Coffee.
LUNCHEON.
Potato and Cheese Puff. Water Cress.
Brioche. Tea or Cocoa
DINNER.
Broiled Lamb. Banana Daube.
Fried Rice Pats.
Lettuce. French Dressing. Cheese Waters
Orange Tapioca, Cocoanut Sauce.
Coffee.
Graham Gems-These are particularly
good. One-half cupful of brown sugar
or good sirup. one cupful of sour milk.
one teaspoonful Of soda, one-half tea
spoonful of salt, one tablespoonful Of but
ter (melted). graham -four enough TO
make a stif batter. Mix in the order
given and bake in Kissing hot gem pans
Potato and Cheese Puffs-Add to one
quart Of cold mashed potatoes two slight
" beaten eggs, q dusting of paprica and
one cupful of granulated cheese Mix
well. adding two or three tablespoonfuls
of rich milk Butter small cups or
ramekins, sprinkle sides and bottoms with
bread crumbs and I'LL with the mixture;
sprinkle with bread crumbs. dot with but
ter and bake for about fifteen minutes
Brioche Cakes-Add one-fourth cupful
Of sugar to one cupful of scalded milk.
When lukewarm add one-third COM
pressed yeast cake softened in warm wa
ter, then add one and one-half cupfuls
Of flour and let rise When bubbly add
two eggs beaten, ,one-fourth cupful
melted butter. one-fourth teaspoonful OF
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

the taffeta weavcs there are the pompa-
dour designs, with their lovely colorings
in two-toned effects: also the changeable
silks and the striped and plain designs.
Another advantage in making these capes
from this silk. is that II may be had IN
wide widths that cut to advantage. The
lined capes or coats are also usually of
taffeta, with a covering of plain or striped
chiffon cloth. When made in this way
the lining and the outside are cut ex-
actly alike and basted together along the
edges. where they are finished with q
rufie of the lining silk. or with a band
Of ribbon in contrasting, dark color.
These capes are very expensive when
bought ready to wear. but may be made
at home for a few dollars, if one is will
ing to give a little time to the work. 1t
is really a very simple and easy matter
to complete a wrap of this kind. II one
knows how to go about the work. First
select the style wanted. and then procure
pattern as near the shape as possible.
II unable to get anything that may be
used as a guide from which to cut the
cape you may be able to cut or have
cut, at home a pattern. II neither of
the. suggestions are practical. as a last
resort you can have one cut at any place
where they make a specially of unusual
patterns. The charge for the cutting
Will be from 80 cents to N.5e. but even
with this additional expen~e. II will be
much cheaper than buying the wrap
ready made.
Circular Model with Hood.
Model No. ] is a clever little concep-
tion that VIII be serviceable, as well as
smart finish for an up-to-date dress.
The new pussy-willow taffeta, which is
a charming weave of the season, is just
the thing for its development. 1t has
none of the rustic of the old-fashioned
silk of the same name. but rather is a
soft clinging weave more like a crepe
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

de chine.s This comes 10 inches wide, and
yards is sufficient to develop the wrap
To make 1t at home the pattern for any
circular can. can be used. shaping 1t at
the lower edge as pictured. The collar
resembles a. hood at the back. but is
squared at the front. comes long tie
of the silk, with pieot edge to corre-
spond with the edge Of the standing
run. which is also of the taffeta.
Sleeveless Wrap with PIcot Edge.
The sleeveless taffeta wrap is fea-
ture in this seasons wardrobe, and is q
charming little affair that more can be
said In its favor as a finish to a taffeta
frock than can be said for it az a means
of providing extra warmth. These wraps
are usually made blousy at the waist
line. and they have a short full skirt be-
low the girdle. The one pictured is an
especially pretty design, and can be made
at home by any one who knows only a
very little about sewing. 1t can be cut
from any kimono blouse waist pattern.
The sleeves, of course, must be omitted,
and ample material allowed at the lower
edge for blousing. The girdle.- waist ruff
fie and frill at the neck are also of the
taffeta. A picot edge will make the pref
test finish for the whole. garment. May
of the stores make a specially of this
work. and they charge from 10 to Is
cents yard. There will be between five
and seven yards of the work on this
garment. 1t will take about two and
yards OF forty-inch silk to
make the wrap.
Simple Design in SILK.
Model is quite the simplest of any
jacket shown. yet lacks nothing in good
effect. Made of pretty. two-toned taf-
feta in suitable harmonizing color, it
will be useful and pretty to slip on over
frocks. This coat may easily be
shaped by the ordinary, one-piece coat
pattern, and 1t is given individuality by
the high rolled collar and the jeweled
cabochon fastening at the front. When
desired this wrap can be- made .ddite
warm by the addition OF lining This
can be Of silk or a fine soft woolen goods
may be used for the purpose. 1t will be
effective II the lining is of an entirely
different color from the silk used for the
The Washington herald., 1914-06-04

a cupful Of cold water and soak for forty
minutes; then add half a cupful of boil
ing water and stir until the gelatine Is
dissolved. Mix one pint Of strained
orange juice with one pound Of sugar
until they form a syrup and then add
the yolks of six eggs that have been
beaten until lemon colored. Stand the
basin containing the syrup and eggs in
a larger vessel filled with cracked ice:
strain the galatine into the other ingre-
dents and stir constantly until it begins
to thicken. Have In readiness one quart
Of rich cream that has been beaten
solid, fold this into the selatine mixture
and pour quickly into an Ice cream
mold. Pack in ice and salt and freeze
for two hours Serve accompanied by
whipped cream sauce. favored with any
preferred cordial