davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11
Power Machine Saves Bach.

In buying a machine one must decide
whether lock or chain stitch Is wanted. The
latter is becoming more popular than 1t used
to be and has the merit that its work rips
easily-always consideration for a begin
ner. 1t is entirely possible to prevent unde-
sired ripping by fastening threads securely
The drop case that lowers into fiat table
top is preferable to the old fashioned box
top, especially il one lives in an apartment.
Where woman has weak back it Is wise
to buy machine run by hand or electricity.
With an old machine one can buy an electric
motor. Be sure to get one controlled by a
pedal, as it can be stopped instantly. leaving
the hands free. There are various hand at
tachments, none costing more than few
dollars. Some fasten to the upper wheel and
work with a circular motion. but the easiest
one to handle is a steel piston fastened to the
lower wheel that Is worked by gentle push
back and forth. 1t may be removed easily,
or the pedals can be used with it on.
Most necessary attachments come with
good make of machine. Do not be persuaded
into buying lot of extras that you may
never need There is a little hemstitching
attachment that is useful for sheets, pillow
cases. and table linen. but it is not especially
satisfactory for the work on silk and chiffon
to give the popular finish to the edge.
Next to machine the great essential in
equipment for the home dressmaker Is q
dress FORM She can get along without it.
naturally. but her time is tremendously
saved with one, besides being able to do bet
ter work. Again, there are various makes.
some just for the waist. others for the skirt.
and still others for both. Though 1t costs
more, it pays to get one Of the adjustable
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11
Seping Cupboard a Boon.

special sewing cupboard is a boon. or
even & special drawer or two in q chest of
drawers. Here one will keep needles. pins.
basting thread-and by the way, 1t is xtrav-
agant not to get the waxed spools of cotton
specially sold for basting at 8 cents. Not
only Is there much more thread but II is much
more smoothly handled-severAl weights. a
small ironing board well padded a sleeve
board. an electric. gas. or charcoal iron.
hooks and eyes. boning, betting emery. thin
bic, stiietto bodkins. and an extra tape meas
ure. The adjustable gauges for small hems
Will be found useful addition. Your latest
FASHION books should also find place here
In this drawer or cupboard should be
special box for patterns. which must be rigid
~ weeded out as they go out of fashion; an
other for odd spools of sewing silk, a third
for different numbers of cotton, and another
for Innings. Once acquire this habit of seq
regating your sewing equipment and your
home dressmaking is much simplifed Here
go leftovers of silk. especially black and
white. that will answer for facings: rem
nants OF lining, half used spools of silk or cot
ton tape, linon, and cotton. and seam binding
Into another box put tissue paper and
some shests of yellow manila paper of me-
dunn weight. that you need not be in a
huster o. hurting when you wish to cut pat
tern or adapt an old one. Have all the boxes
carefully labeled and neatly kept or they
Will lose much Of their usefulness.
Besides this general equipment never start
q new garmant without making sure you have
everything you need for it on hand. 1t is
surprising how many women are haphazard
In preparation for sewing. Nothing eats up
more time or is greater nerve racker than
not to have what you want when you want
it-especialiy when you are paying for dress
maker py The day or hour.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11
Substitute for Dress Form.

odOotttdtS Jul lfCoS OfHf.
If you cannot afford dress form make
yourself perfectly fitting drilling dress lin
ing that comes we'll down over the hips. Fill
1t with bran. adjusting the shape to your
exact proportions by slipping on it waist
that fits you well and compressing the bran
to the proper lines. This Is cumbersome. not
especially easy to make, and may be eaten
by mice; but 1t is far better than to attempt
to fit oneself or to depend upon another to
ft you.
There are, of course many other time and
labor saving appliances for the home dress
maker, but do not spend money on them
until sure you cannot get along without
them, especially If living In a small apart
ment There are, for instance. variety OF
hem gauges, some Of them good. but one can
measure just as accurately with yardstck
and a notched card.
Some essentials there are, however with
out which 1t is folly to start to sew al home
Chief among them good scissors Have
sharp pair of cutting out shears. not so
clumsy to be unwieldy to handle-about
nine or ten inches is good size-and a case
of other scissors containing at least three
sizes, besides buttonhole scissors
yardstick and an accurate tape measure
AN'hoSiih6 dl icd5t sihly 1HCHeS are among
the indspensables; so are a tracing wheel,
tailor's chalk. and colored thread for mark
ing materials on which wheel cannot be
used Never. for instance, use tracing
wheel or heavy pima on taffeta or other silks
that cut easily.
Cutting must be done on a hard surface. In
small apartment, where it is not feasible to
have an extra cutting out table, the floor
NAV be used htlf ~ mos hJa ! ,
folding table. sufficiently large to hold the
longest pattern
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11

- nth the popularity of domestic sci
A/ ence courses and sewing classes in
Wv the schools there will be small ex-
cuse for the next generation of
women not to be as expert sewers
as were their grandmothers. But there is a
vast army of women just between the old
home training and the modern school train
ing who know little or nothing about making
their own clothes.
AS 1t is never too late to learn, shall today
have a practical talk on some of the things
necessary to become an expert home Dress
maker. shall presume that the woman am
bilious enough to wish to make her own
clothes understands the rudiments of plain
hand sewing, can run, baste, hem. fell, gath
er, and overcast neatly. These are essen
tials of the most modest attempts at dress
making. and unless mastered it is folly to
attempt elaborate sewing.
Even the novice who cannot sew stitch"
need not despair-she can learn. The first
step would be to buy one of the excellent
textbooks used in sewing schools for chill
dren. These can be bought for about so cents
and give all the rudiments of sewing, with
Illustrations. They are so simple. the perse-
verlng girl can easily acquire working
knowledge of stitches and methods without
help of teacher. The smp 9st way to learn
neat stitchery is to practice with patches of
unbleached muslin and colored thread and
keep at one stitch until it is mastered. The
color makes Irregularities palmer.
The first need of home dressmaker Is a
good machine. 1t is possible to make clothes
entirely by hand, but it is time waster
and so laborious that 1t pays to put money
into a machine. The cost of a machine va
ries with the make. AS one lasts for years.
it is well to get one of the standard makes
that have stood the test of many generations
of sewers
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11

for boys, and Mary, Elizabeth, Margaret
Agnes. and katherine for girls
With such a name your son or daughter can
go through life without ever bushing for the
taste you displayed.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11
Seen in the Shops Of Paris.

Green is a modish color for street costumes.
\: Il;
In jewelry the square cut stones reign su-
preme.
\: "
The new tango shade is nasturtium in color.
\; n
All draperies run high In front and long
behind.
" n
The newest shads-for the debutantes Is
rust red.
n Il
Children's coats all hang straight from
the shoulder.
Transparent effects are becoming more and
more daring
u n
The slipper of hand painted kid or satin IS
a pretty idea
The Medic collar is used on all smart cos
tunes this winter.
n
Skunk is the most fashionable fur: It
adorns everything.
Capes OF fur are among the smart gar
ments of peltry.
NJ \.
Velvet flowers In dark shades are fashion,
able Just now.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11
Kitchen Should Be Attractive.

~ OMETIMES you come across a house
where the drawing room and dining
room are as handsome as money can
make them, but where the kitchen is
dingy, untidy. and mean. Such a
house always reminds me of the kind of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11
Home Dressmakimg Equipment
Has Many Labor Saving Devices
By JANE BARTON.

combination forms that may be arranged to
suit any size or height
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11

Gold metal embrolderies appear on al
most every costume.
4: !.
The square end train Is the accepted model
FOR evening gowns
!. \.
Nearly all the fancy bouses have vests
of contrasting color and material.
i. 4.
Long stoles. soft and pliable, wound about
the figure. are fashionable.
There Is a tiny ripple at the side seams of
some of the coats of tfe new suits.
Smart women are showing their approval
of duvetyne and peau de peche.
i: 4;
The woolen velvets have entered into COM
petition with those of satin and silk.
i: Il
Chiffon velvet Is good for wraps: 1t falls
back into the long. soft folds so easily.
!: !:
The high laced boot which the slashed skirt
demands is fashioned of gray suede or finest
kid, matching the tone of the gown.
Ths frill of net or tulle has gained such
Importance that gown dares not show itself
without at least fragment Of this thin
material.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-01-11

- nth the popularity of domestic sci
ence courses and sewing classes in
wv the schools there will be small ex-
cuse for the next generation of
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27
AUTONOMY FOR POLAND
GERMAN AND RUSSIAN DIPLOMACY ADOPT A PLAN TO WEAKEN THE
aEIGHBoR." A POLICY AMONG WARNING NATIONS THAI is AS OLD
AS IS WARFARE, AMI IT'S PRESENT ADOPTION IS NO SURPRISE TO
DIPLOMACY.


Germany Or Russia. hut Great Britain.
and the means ~ effect this undoing VAS
not through 4 reunited Poland hut Nv
IN independent ireland.
The great French writer pointed ont
that Louis XIV should have humhlrd
the power Of Great Britain for III time
hy establishing James I'll o. the Irish
throne. and thus ~ an net ~ success
ful separation have prevented forever
Great Britain from securing that hrgr.
mony Of the seas from which her world
power today j. - directly derived.
Napoleon i hundred ycarS aficrward
perceived too late In Ilclcnal. the ahid
ing truth OF Montc~Quien'S assertion.
Had l gone to ireland instead MI to
Egypt said the imprisoned Emperor.
~the Empire of England was III III end
Phrases. II has been said Nv ~ Am
erican publicist. destroy thought"
Here il u phrase that hrects thought.
To weaken your neiehhor. who is also
your enemy. performs not an act Or war.
but what Il termed IN the realm VI
faith. IN r-t az c0ntrition.
Altruism may Ia the end pull down
imperialism.
80 il hc somebody cIse's empire. the
better Tor you-and maybe for the world
"a large.
Beginning today nj the outset of this
upheaval of the nations. with the Ere
constitution Of Poland j. II certain
that the effort ITO weaken The neigh
Dor" will W. limited N land frontiers?
IL Poland pour 'aHaiblir lc v%oixin.
wbv not Finland?
II Finland. WHY not Ircland2
When the Kaiser declared war. on
Russia. onc could have thought that
IN less than n fortnight would spring
from the gloomy mind Of the Gear not
alone a freed Poland. brit .citiI rights
u the Jews" and "a radical reform "
the electoral laws ~ a. ~ confer the
right 10 vote on several millions IN Rus.
SLAMS now denied the franchise
The threat ~ suffering has already b.
gotten the promise ~ The suffrage. ,
II may ~ well that the German Mon
tcSquicn Of the twentieth century who
comes 10 write of The war IA The nations
now opening will record that there
sprang 10 lie. FULLY armed with Speer
md helm. from TIE brow " The German
Wan Lord" mot alone the Minerva " "
restored Poland hut the goddess nf "A
freed Finland and an independent Ire.
land.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

The Ausiro-G German and Russian Pre-.
lamationS IN favor VI 4 reeon>si,g;cd
Poland come AZ no surprise "a dinloma
". They might ~ called. indeed 'ldcn-
.icaI notes. although In point u time
the Tcutonic prononnccmcnt came fiISF.
The Russian reply however. has been
more widely published.
The policy of weakening your enemy
by an excess III friendship within his
household IN NOT "a new one.
The policy l. ~ old ~ warfare. The
pharSe. in is application today bN Rus
sia and German yto the ~ncighboring
Polish population. comes "a a. from the
days of Louis XIV. Ia had then a very
different application and one that ere
the present war b. ended. may well be
applied 10 the very end The phrase
maker himself had III view.
Ii has been known for wears that IN
the event NJ war between Tcutun and
Slay one Of the first e~ndearcrs Of each
combatant would bc ID ~affaibiir u Vol.
sin" t"wcaken the good neighbour ~ 4
- ~ AANAAA VI NNNtINNAtMt AMNFWl ~
ward the dispoSsessed Poles.
While the Cars proclamation IN IA
vor ~ an autonomous Poland. Il H.
crq'tcd on the ruins of Russian Posen
and Austrian Galicia. holds the mind 81
the man in the street. il j. clear that
the Kaiscr'S declaration Of war waS fhc
real proclamation 81 Polish autonomy
and possibly NJ something more.
The Russian. point u view IA plain
enough.
\ rro Russian propaganda spreading
through Russian and Austrian Poland
that could point ~ Warsaw IL the cap.
ital NJ a restored national life would III
worth ten army corps TO the Car In
the heart 0f the enemies territory.
To disintcgratc from within and dc.
tach from allegiance 10 v0ur friend The
enemy many millions II his subjects IN
no expense ~ Yourself beyond u lcclara-
ton Of altrHiSm H. a striking ~rcaliza.
ton % RicheIicu's dictum thai he.
meath the rule II men entirely great the
pen ~ often mirhticr than the sword
May N prove Nd ln the present c4Sc.
n WAS not, however. Richclieu for
Bulwcr Lstton'S f~Richclien-1 whe
einIn lated The doctrine that the hest
way ~ overcome yDUr adversary was ~
"affaihlir H. v%uiSin." bur M~0ntcSqnien.
The phrase was coined not for use
hy Kaiser or Gar. but for Louis XIV:
The "%ncighhor" 10 H. weakened Was MT
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27
WILL
STUDY PUBLIC
UTILITIES

tFrom ne Hunicipa J%oHrHal.)
Philadelphia. pa.-Mayor Blankcn-
burg'S plan for the organization OF a
National Bureau of Utilities Research
has met with such an unexpected re-
Spouse and guarantee ~ financial and
moral support from the principal cities
throughout the country that II has been
found necessary ~ provide for = prclim.
mary organization Ia advance Of the
meeting proposed Ia this city IN Nov
cmbcr and then distinguished In profcs.
Si0nS law finance and business IN many
states have been named upon a board
Of trustees. This board viii frrvnare
for the meeting and outline 4 plan for
merging the cities ~ the nation utility
corporation ia improving service aud
obtaining lower rates. After consulting
with those who discussed with him the
proposed conference. the MAYOR named
the following "a membership ia the
board " trustee:
Louis ~. Brandcis. lawyer. Boston.
Counsel fur Interstate Commerce tom.
mission. on application Of Eastern Rail
roads FOR > per cent increase: Charles
n Van lIiSc. president. University ~
Wisconsin, Madison. Wis. :. :. Fels,
manufactures. Philadelphia: Frederick
W. Taylor. consulting engineer. Phila-
delphia, past president ~ the American
Society 90 Mechanical Engineers, leader
IN scientific management movement (:
Frederick A. Cleveland. director Of the
New York Bureau Of Municip;a Re
search. formerly chairman ~ the PreSi-
dents Commission on Economy AMI IN.
i%icicncy: Leo :. HowSc. professor of pol.
itieal science. University ~ ~l'cnnSslva.
min, president of the American Acadc-
~, 81 Political and Social Science :
Charles n. Jenkins. publisher. rhilalcl-
phia: Felix F~rankfurtcr. Cambridge,
Mass, Professor IT Law. Harvard Uni.
vctsits. chief legal adviser II the colo
NAL Administrations VI The United
States under Presidents Roosevelt. Taft
and Wilson.
There are three members 10 be- named
later. and with Mavor B~lankcnhurg viii
constitute Il hoard III twelve Mayors W
cities ~ho have responded "a Mayor
Elankcnbnre have been notified that the
tentative dates of November L.. IL and
II are suggested for The meeting ia this
city. Some Of the mayors will bring
with them c%lcctrir lighting experts. who
will address the convention.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27
THEN


Fifty Tive Years 80 today 49, $50
driven Oh well IN the United state ~.
gan 10 give M its precious fluid. The
event marked an epoch in the ilIumin.
aiion Of the world anil the beginning ~
many huge fortunes. The chief ilIumin.
ants ~ hat day were sperm. W. whale
oil. retailing I'd S2a5 i gallon: -ram.
phcnc.~ a dcriratiyr Of tnrnrntina aud
very liable 10 explosion: -coal OIL ~.
tanned from csaI ana scotch hsrh...l
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

Today the oil wells or the United
States are annually producing nearly
two thirds of the crude petroleum cuu.
sumed throughout the world. The Weld
reaches the enormous total W about ~.
D~Oo.Ooo.O0o gallons u year with 4 whole
sale value estimated ai S50D.OOD.Nu0
They have created the greatest single
fortune III the world. that Df Hvrkrfvl
lcr's. Scores of other multimilliunairrs
owe their present wealth ~ thc sticky
fluid oil has called into existence
huse webs 81 pipe lines. a~ggrreniinr
more than 5000 miles in length. which
convey the crude product WI tle OH
wells % the reiincries where ia IN trans.
formed into itS many forms Of rommfrrr
gasoline naptha, Therapeutic oint-
ments and %icllies, Illuminating oils.
greases and poisonous dyes. Il has ere
atcd great fleets of specially designed
oilrarryinE vessels that sail thu seven
seas distributing che product of Ampri
eau oil wells AZ alI parts of The earth
IN the Tuise ~ gasoline III is driving
the millions 81 automobiles through the
world. IL supplies The power for vrs
sells and railroad engines. III ha~ drir
en wax and tallOw candles from thr
market bF substituting onc of it, br.
products paraffin. which II made M an
nunlls into 3oo.puc.p00 candles 81 more
than TOO different varieties.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

Subscribers mi the city VINO fail 10 re-
ceive The Herald regularly are requested
TO notify the Office promptly. An papers
delivered IN thc city should be received. Al
a rule. not later than 4:l5 10 q o'clock d.
m. Unless some accident 10 the press or
other untoward delay occurs az the print
ing oiice, the paper should h. ont not later
than 4:30 and the carriirs should compIcte
tneir distribution. even 10 the most distant
subscribers, within not less than an hour
and thirty minutes.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

III the European war results IN the
establishment of industries in this ronm.
Try o. supply the la'k ~ the MANY arti
cles Made IN GERMANY. 81 made in
some other Eusnlean country, which
constitute 50 large a part IA The United
States shopkcepcrs siork>. there will bp
another large item 90 prove that ID n
an i'll wind that blows nobody good.
There Is no apparent reason why this
country should nor produce articles NJ
almost ann kind a equally M good quail
ity as those made IN Europe. Perhaps
this war may convince Americans that
this is true.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

III any erroneous reflection upon the
character Of anyone, or which may affect
the standing Of any person. firm on cor
Pcration, should. be published inadsertcnt
- the news column Of The Herald, Il
wni De corrected promptly upon lhc attcn-
ton Of the pablishers hrinx called for il.
Ohice Of Publication
1909 Washington Street.
AIelpphoup No =
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

EDITORIAL PICK-UPS

This A. the time for the Poles a. urt
their pricr Philadelphia Record.
Carranxa " IN Mexico city. but there
A. still some necessary DELAY III thp
march on Berlin and pnrsx.-New York
York World.
II i ID " hoped that Governor
IIaiucs ~ Maine win npt exhaust the
states locking for that Ger
expedition which j. 10 conquer
Cmnada.-Philadelphia Ledger.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

With two million bushels Of corn now
being harvested IN the lower hio Grande
Valley, and corn going ~ "a price, Is IL
any wonder II the Nallc, farmers can
smile IL spite ~ The war IA Europe and
the depressed state ~ cotton?
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

Corpus Christians deserve credit for
their unanirspus vote for M. retention N
ownership 81 its water system IN tn, ,,i.
There are nqFer lacking men who will argue
against ty7owncrship "A public uhlitic (.
especially when some would be- purchaser
happens along and sing IA. aeu ona INTO
their ears. bnt the continuously increasing
number Of csies that are taking control of
their water 4nd hight plant. opr a. an
enormous cxne1fsts proves that The iar
payers m g4pcral are "a the opinion Thar
d the owner imp Of such 4 plant would nas
. private corporation. Il ,honld enable q
city 10 furnish ~ residents with water or
light at q 10 sf a,flse than could me diri-
dent-payingf corporation. u NJ true, such
D not nlwakH the ease T. On truc. city
ownership 0netimcs rs made so m-ati--
factory 70 IL patrons that They are finally
induced tocV isent 10 The sale ~ such ~
terests 20 a Evaporation. People are learn
ing. howeFl that. a the operation # a
city water hight plant does not prove
satisfactorH Mhe remedy lould D. sought
IN a change-nL-mana.sment and not W Y
change Of ownership Thu. has been The
experience m Brownsville. and the idea i-
one which all ctIe~ -hould adopt.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

The wax In which the Frisco keeps on
like an Indication that receirerShipS may
sometimes be good for the health ~ an
institution.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

For cutting Grass nn terraces and
slopes there has been patented an extern.
sion handle for lawn mowers. permit
ting a man e. stand on leven ground and
operate them.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

According to M Italian scientist ihc
surface Of the body o. the brain and
signals which nerves carry ffom The
brain u the nurseries arc chemical IN
sheir nature.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

Remembering Lafayette, ID II incon.
ceivahle that any American could calm
~ contemplate The possibility ~ defeat
Of France by any enemy that aims IA the
destruction 81 French independents.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

"A new Relgian wood pr~tservatise
against moistnre and heat Is composed
of a solution ~ copper and zine in, an
monia with the addition - 4 small pro
portion " hemzol.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

Twenty one states now have IN opera
lion laws providing aid for mothers. i
various forms.
Brownsville herald. [volume] (Brownsville, Tex.) 1910-current, 1914-08-27

The average wage uf 1881 telephone
rirls Ia the state of Washington i sSfS
per week.