The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-07-19
PARIS, July 10.


exploited by smart women-capes long
and capes short. tie Henri ". shoulder
mantle and the utra-long, flowing cloak
similar To that worn by Catholic priests
Never were there garments more pop
ular than these circular capes, and their
extreme popularity has sounded their
kneU For in Paris the flowing cape
has become a uniform. 1t has been
worn by women young and old; dowdy,
charming. homely and pretty. or the
circular cape, in the ordinary sense OF
the word, we have had quite enough,
but recently a Partisan woman famous
for her beauty appeared at Armenon-
willie in a gorgeous cape, which attracted
reneral attention and admi' ton.
II was a genuine bulfghter's cloak
which had been purchased In MADRID
for a large sum of money. II was mace
Of dark sapphire blue satin and richly
ro!dered in colored silks and oeads.
The lining was in deep shade OF rose
and the cape was worn over BLACK
lace evening gown. / assure you thAt
the effect was magnificent.
have often wondered why these
eplendid cloaks have not been more
generally worn by beautiful women VINO
do not mind looking remarkable. II
beauty OF the gold and silver emoroid'
cries introduced on them. Some OF the
fashionable toreros pride themselves on
having their capas as finely and ex-
pensiyely embroidered as the most
costly gown worn by n Partisan beauty.
remember seeing the Mexican bull
fighter Gaona attired for the perform
ence. 1 interviewed him in his hotel at
Madrid and was amazed to find that tie
emhroideries on his bolero Jacket ana
dress capa were of extraordinary mo-
ness. That afternoon he wore cloak
made OF white silk almost covered with
indian emhroideries. There as nothing
earish or SNOWY about his costume ana
I thought at the time that an enter
nrlsing woman might do we'll to seize
,,pon one or two "capotes de paseo
and 20 adopt them for theatre wear.
Poetic gowns intended for afternoon
wear are being made by the best dress
makers of such incongruous materials
as frst communion muslin and bands or
ermine This particular muslin has
been in favor all the summer. II Is mo
as a cobweb and in the best qualities
beautifully supple. l have seen two or
three Paquin models made OF this muslin
and trimmed with narrow bands OF err
mine.
one Of these gowns had pleated
silirt and a long tunlc, bordered with the
white fur. The corsage was crossed over
the bust one side showing narrow
edge of er1nine. There was an exquisite
chemisette of old Valenciennes lace and
a wide sash, which was drawn rather
tight over the hips of black chiffon vel
vet. The sash had long ends which were
tnotted low down at the left side and
held together by beautiful paste clasp.
Borders of ermine are being intro
duced on evening scarfs male OF silver
tulle or ivory chiffon and | have seen
the same fur used as trimming FOR
dainty dance frocks in silver and white
tulle mixed. Real ermine IS so light and
delicate that Il seems to belong of right
10 the summer season The combina-
ton OF fine, white muslin, bands OF err
mine and sash of black chiffon velvet
e. extremely Partisan.
For midsummer garden parties the
novelty OF the hour Is the fat topped
parasol made OF raffia straw. This straw
Is extremely fine and light, can be sewn
together easily and gives a quaint. Jap
nnese effect when embroidered with
sprays Of flowers In bright colored
silks. These straw parasos look charm
dull black wood.
Pagoda suushadcs covered with Mar
tine silks are very popular this year.
As rule they have very long handles
and some of the leading elegantes at
tach large loose bows and even clusters
OF flowers to the handles.
For special occasions. garden parties
or weddings for example. fiat topped
ba 4 with oil vi a
tulle are charming. The white tulle is
yelled in silver and very often the para
sol is lined with flesh pink chiffon ar
ranged in fine gathers. A pale rose
would probably be fastened to the out
side of the parasol and a bow of dull
blue velvet ribbon introduced on the
handle White tulle. silver tulle and
flesh pink chiffon are delicious when
cleverly combined. They look lovely
when shaped into a blouse, . turban
toque or smart parasol.
Two admirable millinery models are
reproduced this week. The picture hat
represents the present mode of Paris
II Is wide in the brlm and highly artistic
In detail. The hat itself was composed
of fine black lace the brim being lined
with black straw. The low crown was
covered with beautiful roses in several
shades Of deep rose and dull purple
Tho leaves were glossy green and black
and some rough brown stalks stuck ou
at unexpected points.
The second model, n specially smart
shape, was created for the Marqulse de
Ganay 1t was OF the petit chapeau'
order and made of Japanese straw In
the now shade OF blue called Gle
d'Egypte. This ia a mysterious blue
with strong tinge OF green in its com
position. II Is very much used by the
best Partisan mllliners at the moment
In fact, It is running ciel d'Andalousl.
very close in the race for popular favor
Some of the new black lace plctur,
hats are lined with dark blue chip ant
trimmed with superb black Ostrich
feathers, They are very effective wher
worn in conjunction with a picturesqu,
gown made of white satin and EN-
broidered chiffon.
Already the Rue de Ia Paix mill!ner.
are putting the finishing touches to theil
hats Intended for casino wear at Bar
ritz Trouvlle and San Sebastian. 1t II
little early TO speak of these models