The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-06-14
Useful for Dav or Evening.

The cuff. which is also double and stitched as is the collar, is three inches and a quar- ter deep at the back and slopes to a seven and half inch point. The seam of the cuff goes to the seam of the loose sleeve, and the point at the back of the arm. Turn up a narrow seam on the end of the sleeve, haste the raw edge of the cuff to it without turning in, stitch twice, turn up the cuff, and tack the point into place.
 Cover inch and half wooden button molds with the material of collar and cuff. Set three buttons on the left side as far over as
 is needed to lap properly and to the right edge of the hemmed down collar make loop buttonholes from bias strip of the silk folded into cord three-eighths of an inch thick. Tack at each end of the collar and in two places between to form the loops. A button with a simulated buttonhole of the silk cord is set in the point of the cuff with the loop up.
 This model is useful for both day and even- ing wear. To make it little more dressy It can be trimmed with frills of more or taffeta on cloth cape. or of chiffon cloth or lace on silk one. Such frills are most easily made of ribbon. allowing about twice the space to be trimmedsfor gathered frill and three times for box plaited one. The gathering line is run directly in the middle of the ribbon, and the frill is sewed to the wrap through 1t.
 two inch box plait set about A n inch and quarter apart makes smart trimming. In laying the plaits haste at the upper and lower edge, measuring with a notched card Press under cloth to avoid shine Run loose basting thread in white through the center of the plating and sew along this line to the cape, either by hand or machine stitch ing. The frill should be sewed to the edge of the cape, so the lower half projects.
 These frills may be adjusted in various ways. One lavender cloth cape had a black moire ribbon frill four inches wide around the neck, dipping to two inches above the bust line. around the sleeves and around the hot . tom and brought up to the draped closing, This left an untrimmed bias line from the neck to the closing, which was held by two large covered button molds.
 Another frill might be brought around the neck and down to the closing; also around the sleeves with the bottom untrimmed A quaint effect with box plaited shaped frill made Of deeper tone of taffeta than the cane or in contrasting shade is to outline the entire cape with the box plating, which should be cut wider at the neck and around the bottom. say five inches deep at the bot tom, two and a half down each side, and six inches at the top Sew the plating through the middle everywhere save at the top, where the line Is run so two and q half inches fall downward and the taller part forms high ruche on the back of the neck. This must be wired to keep 1t from Hopping.
 These frills are adapted to any of the littlo coatee shapes of taffeta or figured crepes that are so popular this season. These are usually made over a kimono sleeve pattern. sometimes with raglan sleeves, but the former takes less sewing-and reach barely , to the hip line in the back, sloping from there up to the waist line in front. These may hook together under the frills, as they are meant to wear open.