New Britain herald., 1914-08-07
Latest Models of Gowns Show FurS
 of Fine Quality Applied SkilfulIy
Only Most Expert Dressmakers Dare Copy Them-Nar- as row Edge of Sable or Seal Is Now Worn About
 Throat and Wrists. -

I, emphasizes that slenderness partly by 1 fierce of contrast with the pale tones 1 of the gown which carries it and part 1 ly by the treatment of the pelt itself. | F or the so-called girdle, actually a l belt, is never broad and it has a way | of clinging to the figure instead of ] standing stiffly away from it.
 GirdIes Are Slender.
 One of the best models launched | shows the fur girdle as a strip of sable two-thirds encircling the waist and two strips of ribbons joining it's i ends at the back and tied half way creation the only other touch of sable l outlines the roundabout neck. It is a strong contrast, therefore, to an af- ternoon gown in white charmeuse 1 whose front opened chiffon tunic car | ries a broad ruffle, picot-edged and headed with a strip of sable.
 This fur length begins under a
 third narrow band of fur edging a l chiffon girdle deeply swathing the hips and at front-center running to a point against a bodice whose long sleeves have fur-edged wrists. Pi- Guant and chic is it's wired chiffon collar. which, opening trif1e at the throat after the obligatory present fashion, curls over as it widens about
 the neck.
 Here the Amateur Fails.
 Just above it's inner side-joining
 with the bodice the collar is touched
 with points in fur. Imagine the de-
 plorable failure that an amateurs at-
 tempt to copy this collar would
 prove!
 With this white chiffon gown or-
 dered for the autumn or little sea-
 son" at Newport will be worn a
 white velvet toque trimmed with
 white aigrettes and edged with
 sable. The finest of edges, too, for
 no one better than the planner of this
 costume knows when enough of
 good thing has been employed
 Ermine, the fur of monarchs,
 trims many white chiffon evening
 gown and wonderfully chic is the combination. But undeniably ermine is most effective on black. One lovely afternoon gown launched late in the Trouville season carries the narrowest of bands on the edge of it's black tulle overdress. A second band defines the lower limit of it's hip swathing black satin girdle. A third
 band fatly outlines the neck of tulle bodice and. crossing at the bust, runs. into side seams near the waist waist. .s. .. Ermine Adapted to Black.
 Another stunning adaptation of ermine to flmy black occurs in an early autumn evening wrap consist ing of three Chantilly f1ounces, each narrowly Embroidered. The longest of these founces is turned backward from the fronts-after it has been tackled to the chiffon foundation few inches. above the waist-and, car ried diagonally over the shoulders, forms second cape gathered under white satin collar, fatly turned over and extending into Sharp points cov- ering the arm-tops. This model is very good indeed when the lace founces are bordered with white satin or black velvet ribbon in lieu of fur edging
 Silk velours, among autumn fab rics regarded as particularly smart for voiuminous long wraps as we'll as for suits, is exceptionally sumptu- ous in black. Absolutely stunning is an evening cloak in magpie-the black in velours, the white in ermine. The fur cloak, dropping to the knees in front and almost to the ankles at sides and back, has a scallop- p-finished edge. A velours shawl collar com ing high against the neck, far over the arm-tops and almost to the waist-line of the fronts, is as large. as many shoulder cape.
 -Correspondingly broad are the bias-cut ruffles applied to the full sleeves just below the elbow, and 1 even wider is the f1ounce set on at hips in front, but low-dropped at the sides. Truly regal wrap, yet withal practical, for the black comes at the neck, the wrists and above the hips. Although sufficiently elaborate for