Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1914-05-13

nut 1917 % 10 Oe 4dtBSiy d year OF
frills and founces, of lace and chiffon
and embroidered tuIle, OF tower.
decked hats and streaming ribbons,
OF dainty little kid shoes ard extra
long buttonless gloves. The year 1914
is even going to be year of flowing
mantles.
Before l take up the subject Of
these picturesque nantes seriously
there is just one final word to be said
on the subject of the Outrageous
dress" question. A certain influential
dressmaker in Paris has made Wig
orous and absolutely unmerited attack
upon American women in connection
with this topic. He has said in print
that nothing is too daring for our
American customers He has also
said: 1T is the American and not
the French woman who creates the
demand for indecent dresses"
American Women Conservative.
Now this l believe to be quite I'M
true so far as American women are
concerned. / do not say that certain
American buyers are not responsible
for many Outrageous" fashions, for
some of these buyers care nothing
about dress from an artistic point of
view, they merely seek startling nov
elites. This know to be the case.
And though the majority of the Ameri-
can buyers who come to Paris several
times each year are men of excellent
and refined taste there are few who
insist on sensational novelties, and
these novelties are shown and dis
cussed and copied until they really
seem to represent the latest Paris
fashions"
/ think | remember speaking In
recent article of the semi-Spanish
capes which began to be fashionable
few weeks ago and which are now
an absolute rage. They are varied In
design and in material. but all belong
to the same family, for each one Is
loose and voluminous.
Popular ..th ParIslennes.
Cloaks of this order are immensely
popular will the Parisiennes. They
wear them at the races, in the street,
at smart restaurants and in fact every
where. 1t is worthy of note that sew
eral well-known Partisan actresses
have always shown marked liking
for cloaks of this kind; for example,
Marcelle Lender, who was for many
years considered one of the most ele-
CANT women in Paris, and Nine. Re-
jane This season 1t was Nine. ST.
none who revived the fashion. She
wore a sensationally attractive cape
wrap in LA Danse devant lie miroir"
and this garment has been copied
again and again.
One of the leading Paris tailors ~
making particularly effective cloaks
for day wear which are exactly like
the famous Spanish capa. They are
very wide at the hem and circular.
They are fashioned like an umbrella
skirt, only without seams, and are
finished off with a deep collar in vel
vet.
The Innings are a special feature OF
the capes. In some cases brilliant
coIors are employed. in others ex-
quisite brocaded silks are introduced.
At the last Auteuil race meeting
Princesse Guy de Faucigny-Lucinge
wore delightful three-quarter length
cape made of satin cloth in a warm
shade of putty.
At the same race meeting hand
some Russian woman wore long
military cape composed of turquoise
blue velours de iaine lined with Mar
tine printed silk which showed a bold
design in rust red or midnight blue
ground. Some of these long capes
have important looking directoire col
lars. Others are finished with triple
capes in the old-fashioned coachman
style. Others again have simply a
wide turnedback collar like the Span
ish capa above mentioned.
NV sketch will show you an effec-
tive costume of the ultra-feminine
type. Here you have the accordion
plated skirt, which becomes more
and more popular: here, too, is the
graceful shawl cape which gives
pathetic slope to the shoulders and
which must be carried with languid
grace.
Artistic in the Extreme.
The model shown in my sketch was
eminently artistic in material as well
as design. 1t was composed of broche
silk which had ground of bleu d'ou-
tremer (ultramarine) and convention
al designs in petunia red and smoke
gray. The little shoulder cape or
collar was in blue velvet and, the same
soft material was used for the bows