Evening journal., 1914-09-04
paris" GOWNS NOW
FROM OLD new YORK
European War Makes Great
Chance for American
DreSSmakerS
VELVET, FEATHERS
ON NEW MILLINERY
BY MARGARET MASON.
(Written for the United Press.l

Dressmakers in America
Find in the war some Joy,
For now they know all Paris gowns
Must come from Illinois.
NEW YORK. Sept. with all good
Frenchmen turning their thoughts from
modes for the fair to modes OF warfare,
and all the good ships laden with Paris
bonnets and Paris frocks tied up far
from the Land of the Free and the Fee,
there certainly is a great little chance
for some of our home grown designers
and dressmakers. They can now make
good their clamorous boast that their
sartorial creations are as good as the
French if only American women will
wear 'em.
New York windows, at present, how
ever, are full of Paris creations that
beat the war TO il. While they last,
home stuff, to be sure, won't have
look in
Among the more elaborate afternoon
three piece suits shown, one of the love
liest is of smoky taupo chiffon and vel
vet brocade. The long tunic, set ON "a
deep grdle of plain black velvet, gives
the effect of hip yoke which is of bro
cade. This fabric is decidedly novel in
that the velvet design ON the same toned
background of chiffon is a plaid effect of
two-toned taupe. The undersEirt is OF
l the velvet and over a loose blouse of the
hrocade a unique velvet coat is worn,
cut short to the grdle line in front,
and behind showing a full length skirt
fulled on with cordage beading to the
back waistline of the Jacket. An elab-
crate ornament of gold, silver and Jew
eled embroidery like plastron joins the
jacket in front where it comes together
very grudginglv with a low and open
N-shaped cut-Out neck effect
A more simple but equally artistic
costume is coat gown of olive toned
corduroy. The plain Russian blouse is
belted in at the normal waist line with
gold embroidered black belt and but
tons straight down the front from the
high close-fitting neck with bullet but
tons of black and gold enamel. The same
| buttons trim the long plain sleeves and
the skirt Of the Russian blouse, which
reaches to the hips, is edged with a
fringe of monkey fur. The underskirt
is plain.
When it comes to a question Of your
early fall hat just take a tip-an Os-
trich one-and combined with a black
velvet shape you'll have ala dernier
cri" in headcoverings. Just for the
nonce everything in the millinery line
has black velvet for a foundation and
almost everything has ostrich feath-
ers for trimming.
The few exceptions to this feathered
rule are trimmed with galoon.
Already the tiny brimless hats arc
beginning to sprout out with brims
and quite broad trimmed sailor shapes
of black velvet, called by the French
"canotier," to cast the shadows before
Of huge pictures hats 10 come.
It is on the canotier hat that the os-
trich feather trimmings are most ef-
fective and they are invariably in flat
effects either circling the crown and
completely hiding the top of the brim
with their long curling fronds or else
! flat banding Of short fronds is used
edging the brim. Tiny single tips are
/ also used as brim edging.
Where the metalized banding or ga
loon is used as trimming for these
canOtier shapes, a long narrow flat
bow on the brim edge Is the favorite
form of trimming. A band Of galoon
around the crown on a binding Of ga
loon around the brim is also smart on
the larger hats.
Everywhere the flat effect is striven
for and il is only on the tiny turbans
and almost hats that the stickups still
rear heavenward to unprecedented
heights.
You are sure to put your foot in II
this fall If you don't put both feet
in the new Roman striped stockings.
They are beautifully blended color,
the stripes running around and there
by giving a plump and curved outline
TO the thinest pedal extremity.
Almost all color combinations arc
offered and all in such softly shaded
good taste that although the colors
are guaranteed fast you have not the
slightest danger Of appearing likewise
IL you don these silken novelties.
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