Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-10-30
MILITARY FEATURES OF
THE NEWEST FASHIONS

Special Correspondence of The Star
NEW YORK, October ga certain
dressmaker here, who gives her crea-
lions names as the French dressmakers
do. had an opening of late fashions,
and SO strongly had the nomenclature
been taken from the European battle
fields that one felt as if one was pin
ming flags on a war map.
There wac Marine to begin with;
then Petrograd, Niemen, Herzegovina,
Rheims. Namur. Warsaw. Even when
the names were not of places involved
IN the migration. they reminded one
OF the struggle: surely Dreadnousht, In
the Forest, Wearing of the Green. The
Encounter needed no explanation.
Petrograd was a gorgeous military
red coat. as DrecolTs Ivanoff of this
season is glorious thing of gold and
scarlet, although they are both quite
direrent war panoply from the dust
brown and smoke gray of the modern
uniform. The connection between the
bloody battle of the Marine and a
broadtail coat and skirt was hard to
nnd, unless it meant slaughter to the
innocent in both cases.
Yes, it is quite true that fashion here
is already rejecting the tremendous
happenings of the day. just as it surely
VIII II Paris has the good fortune to
open her dressmaking houses next Feb
ruary. The reflection of the military
IN this country is mostly individual, al
though there was enough of the mar
tai spirit In the new gowns shown in
september to give an impetus to the
winter clothes
Women are making the most of it.
ana one sees on every side a growing
1ondness for braiding, for the brassard
on the arm, for the military cape and
the use of gold buttons and coats with
WIDE belts thrust well down below the
waist Inc cape that swings from the
shoulder is probably more highly ac-
centuated than the other features.
1t is not the long cape we have worn
since last spring, but a short affair that
hangs just to the waist line at the
back where it is held down by tas-
sells Some of these are dropped off one
shoulder in the careless picturesque
fashion of the soldier Balkan.
Also the Belgian Cap.
Among all the fighters, it is only nat
ural that the Belgians should have the
romantic admiration Of the womenfolk
OF the world, and one would not doubt
this for a moment If one had been at
Havre during the second week of Sep
TENDER, when the Belgians were there
after their Namur experience. Every
one went quite wild over these superb
looking soldiers. and for that week the
French and English soldiers had to be
content with second place, although
they all got quite as much adulation
and admiration as was good for any
man, be he soldier or civilian.
The Belgians wore fetching caps
cooked over on one side, and simply
ornamented with two tiny streamers at
the back This is the cap, minus the
strings. that a well known designer
here has brought out as a novelty, and
the half dozen women who have al
ready appeared In them, have been ad-
mired. They are usually of black vel
vet with only the slightest bit of trim
ming in the nature of a military orna-
ment
They are q bit trying to the woman
who has not decided chic in her face,
but they will probably be the founda-
ton for a conventional Belgian cap
that the majority can wear. It's very
new touch.
The High Military Collar.
Everywhere one sees the adoption of
the high collar that we always asso-
ciate with the military uniforms of all
ages. The new one smacks more of
Louis the XIV than of Gen. French or
Gen. Joffre, and it Is far more becom-
ing. which Is good. 1t stands straight
away from the neck at the back and
does not curve in at the sides in a