The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-06-21
~ CLAUDE CHERYs.

ting ready for the famous race
meetings which finish with the
Grand Prix. At "the Drags" and at the
Grand Prix original. and often eccen-
trio, gowns and hats are worn which
are discussed in every newspaper OF
Importance; for these are the fash
ions which will be worn at Trouville-
Dcauville. at Biarritz and San Sebas-
tlan. and later In New York. when the
fall season is in full swing.
To those who are behind the scenes
in the world OF fashion in Paris 1t is
an open secret that tho spring and
summer styles are decided upon on the
sunny terrace OF the casino at Monte
Carlo and fall styles in the pesago at
Auteuil or Longchamps in the month
Of June. You will perhaps say that
In tho month OF June all the world
feminine IL wearing thin frocks and
tullo hats while autumn demands some
thing warmer and more solid. Quite
70. But I am not thinking OF materials
only. I am thinking OF outline, OF col
ors and OF possibilities.
No one. not even the most autocratic
dressmaker in the rue de la Paix, can
create n fashion to-day and find IL gen.
orally worn tomorrow. Women are
not quite so tickle as all that. Worth
has often said that fashions move
slowly" and II Is very true. Changes
como about in some mysterious way,
but they seem to come naturally.
And so 1t happens that the autumn
styles which with obtain favor with the
women who count are decided upon in
midsummer. just as midsummer style"
are arranged In December. For this
reason l feel sure that my readers will
wish me to speak in detail of the mod
els which are now being prepared for
the Grand Prix.
First Of all let me say that we have
reached period Of picturesque FASH
ions; and we intend to remain in that
period. Dress of to-day. as exploited
by such women as Nine. Paquin and
Mime. Chcrult. by such men as Worth,
Doucet and Drecoll. is something really
beautiful and poetic. More than this,
II is individual.
We seem, at last, TO have arrived at
an adequate twentieth century period.
Women OF all nations have in n way
become emancipated. They have claimed
for themselves more liberty of thought
mothers enjoyed. And their dress. in
some mysterious way. expresses this
freedom.
The woman of fashion OF to-day e
essentially natural. and dress of to-day
when seen at its best is also extraordi-
oarily natural-the corset. for example,
and the size Of the waist, and the loose
Throat. and the short skirts, which are
RtNninnf1x. t. nj.
pleasure. All these are natural fashions
and they are very prominent.
Then again there is the growing
popularity Of the 1880 styles, which call
for practical pleated skirts and sill;
Jersey corsages. This is going to be n
generally accepted fashion and 1t Is a
delightful one. The autumn promises
well. Let us fervently hope that tho
craze for nature will last all through the
spring.
On discussing the fashions of to-mor-
Pow with some OF the leading Partisan
dressmakers I find that hounces, gath
cred or pleated. have taken a firm hold
upon the feminine world. Some OF tho
oew race gowns have skirts fiounced
dom waist to hem and these skirts will
b. worn with smart little Coates Of the
holero order.
For dressy costumes the bolero coatee
seems almost ubiquitous. 1t is fash
Toned In many different ways, but 1t re-
mains a bolero all through. / will de-
scribe one or two charming race dresses
recently created by Pdquin to illustrate
my meaning.
Ono OF these was composed of taffeta
In dull shade OF old rose. The short
skirt was composed OF three accordion
pleated flounces which reached right up
to the waist. There was a bolero coatee
In old rose silk linen which was cx-
quisitely embroidered in tiny porcelain
beads OF many different colors. The
sleeves were exceedingly short and
there were turned back cuffs covered
with bead embroidery.
The coatee opened over a chemlsette
OF white Indian muslin, and there was a
Wide, very long sash of black mirror
velvet. which was wound round the
waist and tied at one side low down on
the skirt. This charming dress was ac-
companied by a fiat brimmed hat In
black satin straw which was trimmed
with a big wreath OF sweet pea bios
SONS and maidenhair fern. At one side
two black irises stood erect.
Another costume created by the same
house had a draped skirt In white silk
finished linen and a Dircctoire coat in
white watered silk The buttons on the
coat were in genuine old paste and very
valuable. There was n large paste
buckle holding the black taffeta sash
In place and the hat was distinctly orig.
inal: small round shape in heliotrope
silk beaver, with several branches Of
scarlet Japonicas sticking out at the
left side. This dress also had cXtraor-
dinarily short sleeves and was to be ac-
co1npanied by thirty button length
gloves made Of helotrope suede.
In one Of the full length figure.
sketched this week ! have shown a
charming race gown which has Just
been created for we'll known Partisan
beauty, Princesso Gutenberg The
dress itself is in heliotrope Indian mus.
lin, with silk and bead tassals in the
same shade holding Mp the drspcrles
~ the right side.
The corsagc, which IL covered by the
long cape, IS crossed over tn bust, with
hchu ends tied at the back of tn,
waist. The high roll over collar 4,
In ivory muslin discreetly stifrened, anc
then the important looking cape is mad,
OF shot charmeuse which shows deli,