Evening public ledger. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, 1914-10-21
COOKING OF JULES!
All, M'SIEUR, IT'S FIT
FOR THE GENERALS
Soldier-chef's Mess Has Luz
cullan Fare as He Trans
Iates P otatoes Into
Poems"
BY WILLIAM G. SHEPHERD

D WlLhlAIu ". odEB HERD
on THE BATTLEFIELD OF so1s
SONS, Oct. 21
Having accidentally stumbled onto th,
front and being held here, 1t would be
possible for me to write reams about
shooting and killing II the officers would
let me. l am not permitted to leave the
town or even to mention its name In
anything l write, because I cannot prove
that what information 1 have will not
set to the Germans
But l can write about Jules cooking.
1t would do the Germans good to know
about it, and besides, any man who says
that cooking and eating are not as i'm
portant In warfare as shooting and kill
ing doesn't know what warfare is.
You step from country road through
wicket gate. which opens on a pear
orchard, and you're in Jules Kitchen.
The kitchen he presides over in Paris is
sacred ground and you could not enter
it for love, nor even for lot of money,
for Jules is chef of one of the greatest
and finest restaurants in the world
him down from his high pedestal and
brought him to this pear orchard to
cook for i5 officers.
Jules wears his uniform; a blue coat
and red trousers, but he doesn't wear
the soldiers cap. Who ever heard of
man cooking in anything but a chefs
hat? l don't believe the entire French
War Department could get Jules to try
such an unheard Of thing.
he
very old and very small and they have
been trained by generations of nursery
man TO grow in grotesque patterns, like
vines. on Queerly shaped frames. Each
pair is covered with a paper bag which
was tied over the bud by the old gard
encr in the French fashion.
"Ah, for such fruit as that in Paris"
Jules, as | stood by his big copper kettles
one afternoon, Not a bit of dust, not
even a raindrop has ever touched the
skins of those pears. only the sunshine
has penetrated the little white paper
home"
He shrugged his shoulders with pleasure
at the thought The orchard looks queer
enough with the twisted trees growing
paper sacks of fruit. The Germans lived
in this orchard for II days. They may
have sacked Louvain but the splendor
Of this orchard seems to have over
whelmed them Now Jules and his French
soldier friends are showing how well they
can let dolIar-a-picCc pears alone. Maybe
the fruit will find its way, after all, to
the restaurants of Paris, London and
Berlin.
jules pots are under grape orchard
Huge clusters Of malagas hang down
We say pomme fruit, This is the best
,Iom his morning coffee settles on them
IN thick moisture, which, for some odd
reason, seems to make the coffee all the
Tuv T.y
ran war photoEraphcr, who stumbled
)utu the front with me, and had his
'amcra and films taken from him, was
discovered the other day standing at the
wicket almost sobbing because ne could
1ot get a photograph Of Jules in his
sIape arbor-pear orchard kitchen. Jules
ftCheN is good to see but Il l., better TO
smell Today he and three soldiers spent
he forenoon in working away with
lnivas at a hushei Of ugly. dirty little
potatoes which had been dug from a
,ardcu nearby. About five this evening
walked over 10 where Jules was toiling
With a ladlo at two huge copper pots In
me pot was quantity Of sizzling hot
ardi floating therein were slices of po-
atoes which s"clled, under my sight, into
'ulty. round, crisp balls. In the other pot
yas at least o bushcl 81 these potato bits.
risp ana hot which Jules was ladling
rom the grease. From time to time he
'ut raw potatoes into his cooKing pot.
"Po-atOos suutc | asked him
80 you call them in English In Paris
ye say pomuc fruit. This Is the best
way 10 cook potatoes"
He tore leaf from the roof Of the
.itchen, uut a handful Of the potatoes on
t and save me tho lor.
could / do any hotter than that I'm
'ar~?' he asked me- | started 10 say
no." but he gav" himself the same
.uswer before ] did
BY dinner time Jules had cooked enough
teak-I don't know how, only II was
'ery good-in the same grease in which
he potatoes had been fried. and, by the
ime We got through with the potatoes
md the steak, Jules brought out a gi-
,autIc salad Of fresh lettuce, with the
'inegar and salad touched up, in daring
md artistic fashion, with a bit OF garlic.
When that was done his soldier walters
erved cheese. And then came coffee,
which had sent It's steam mp 10 the cold,
rcSh grapes. Most Of the time Jules,
n his blue coat, his red trousers, his
older shoes ana his chefs cap, stood
rokiu- on as II daring even the highest
nice- t1ere-who happened 10 be part
.encral-to say that something was the
natter with the meal.
In truth the only thing the matter with
was that We al. ate too much, made
mis- complaint 70 Jules, and he said: 1T
S music 10 my ears, the wall of a man
with an 0yerfull stomach"
All tIs time. remember, the cannon
we're booming and, not far away, men
re killing and dying.
"Hage arv Of your mess been killed."
asEtT Jules
Fifteen ont NJ A." he said but
nov they all fought well because they
% ate we'll