The Alaska daily empire., 1914-11-19

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Gertrude l Moi'etl9.
 Like many anoher eits in Europe Austrian Cattaro has served Lreqneng' B m Che capacity or shuttie-cgck Tor some imperial bntiiedore and i4 whole history consists in 5ort ot continuous tossing back and forth from one claimant to anolhef Byz- anane. sameen Turk French, Eng' lsh. RuasiHu an oi them have at one time or another had 9 hand in tne game and today Che queer httie cl1y huddllng on Q ledge hetween the Adri- atlo and inc mountains rather elories in the Knowing that it ia m Adratic port however small and wonders what may be .he colors Of hor next aag.
 Cattaro is built at the end oi on in- let Of Che sea which i8 some hiteen or twenty miles long and is walled by mountains SO high that t Is only in fair summer weather that tue sun cau be seen One finds t almost im- possible Go believe that the smooth waters of the narrow lake-lilse inlet Bi,b mountains on each side 30 close that one reels as if an outstetched hand could touch them are really part of that same ferocious sea which hurls itself agairst the rocks ct Ra- gusa. "East and West Slay and ltal- ian. New Romc and old, says Edward Freeman, might well struggle for the possession Of the land of the water through which we pass rom Reguaa to our final goal at cattaro. The strait leads into D gulf another narrow strait leads into on inner gulf and on an inlet again branching out rom that inner gulf lies tho furthest Of the Dal- matian cities.
 Cattaro seems to lie so quietly SO peacefully, as fl in 9 world of its own from which nothing beyond the shores of it's own Bocche could enter that one is tempted to forget not only that the spot has been the scene Of 80 many revolutions through 80 many ages but that it Is even now border city, city on tho marchlond of contending DOW ers. creeds and races.
 The streets Of Cattaro are narrow and their little paved squares suggest tho memory. of the ruling city, and the graceful little bits Of architecture which one notes ever and anon among the houses of Cattaro remind one lagaln of Venice The landing place, [ the marina, tho space between the coast and the Venetian wall, whore one passes for the last time under the winged lion over the gate, all take on ] Che air or the boulevard. But the forms and costumes of Bocchesi and ] Montenegrins. the men Of the gulf, l with their arms in their girdles, no less than the men of the black noun. tain, banish oll thought chat one ia l anywhere but where be is,-at one oi | the border points Of Christian and civ lNized Europe. If In the sons of the mountains one sees the men who have in all the ages held cut against the Turk. one sees in his brethren of the coast the men who, but Few years back, brought Imperial, Apostolic and
 Royal Majesty to its knees.
 At Cattaro the Orthodox church ii
 on its own ground, standing side by
 side on equal terms with It's Latin riv .lal, pointing to lands where Inc Bilio que Qands where the Greek church prevails) ls unknown and where thc ! Bishop of old Rome has ever been
 deemed an intruder The building 1t self ls small Byzantine church, lesl I Byzantine in fact in its outline thar
 the small churches Of the Byzantine
 type in some of tho other guli cities
 the single dome rises not from the ln
 tersection Of @ Greek cross, but from the middle of Q single body and rest
 ing os it does on pointed arches, I Isuggests the though Of Angouleme. Tho arrangement which is shared by 2 neigbborlng Latin church, is, how ever well known throughout the East Tho traveller whose interests are O
 more general kind turns away iron this border church Of chrlstendom a the last stage of a rilgrimage unsur passed either for natural beauty of io historic interest And, as be looks ul ' the mountain which rises almost aboy
 the east end of the Duomo of Cattarc J and thinks of the land and the men t 2 which the path over that mountai leads. he feels that on this frontie ' at least, tho spirit stnl lives which le s the English warriors to the side Q
 Manuel Komnenos, and which steele D the heart of the last Constantine t , die in the breach Tor the Roman nam 9 and the faith Of Chrlstendom'