Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-09-30
Fashions TAKE
MARTIAL FORM
in LATE MODES


thurman, head OF New York fash
ion house, was interviewed by a New
York Tribune representative Is to
what the correct dress will be this
winter. Mr. Kurzman said in part:
Black and white will be the lead
ing colors, and sombre tete Negro and
navy blue will follow them. There
will be no vogue for gay colors this
season. :. am certain that neither
here nor abroad will anything but
severity and simplicity prevail.
The models / have just brought
ever would, in any case. be the van OF
fashion for another three months
And this year which is like no other
in the history of the business and the
art in clothes early August importa-
tons will remain in authority for six
months, maybe IL. F.. e.. ~
Where our materials will come
from, whether more will be imported
or what American-made cloths will be
used, we don't know Nobody knows
In biouses, crepe is still supreme Elab-
crate and simple, the correct models
closely adhere to the single material.
For the moment there is no style
I can only repeat: these models will
ho.d sway for q long time and the
changes will be Initiated in modify
ing them, not in competing with them.
Style, you know, isn't like other things.
II does not appear. II has TO be ar
rived at.
1T is noticeable that all fabrics are
plain. No polka dots, little figured ma
/ fnrio1a NJ M OF ,,lo IA.
nor patterned brocades are in favor. y
In the face of all this, Mr.. Kurzman
went on to talk of the models he has
imported from the pre-opening selec-
ton. Almost all of them are white.
Al model in white beige-gabadine
shows the long double tunic with p!ais-
ed godet. To the right of the center
of the skirt are close rows of buttons.
The jacket is one of the few short
models, and is distinguished by the
accordion plating over the hips.
NThe collar of the jacket is set high
in the back. and the lapel effect is
got from the wide turned back front
The hat worn with this costume was
simply trimmed in white ostrich, de-
pending for its chic appeal on the slant
at which 1t is worn and the trailing
ostrich in the back.
Another model is of white broad
cloth, cut Russian blouse and edged
with four-ineh band of ermine, above
which on one side is a pocket The
underskirt was of accordion plated
fine faille. The belt was of four fold
ed box plaits. A white fur hat with
white peacock feather rising from the
center of the turban's back was worn
with this costume.
A model of white embroidered NOUS
seine over charmeuse shows a tunic
that comes within two inches of the
underskirt. with charmeuse sash
drawn broadly across the front and
thrown scarf.wise as the two loops fall
behind There is, of course, no waist
line. The animating note in the cos
tune is in the Prince Noir roses which
catch either shoulder and ornament
the skirt.
The flower note" says Mr.. Kurz-
man, will survive the season" The re-
lief offered by knots of flowers against
white gray and black will undoubtedly
appeal
The hat worn with the model last
described was of white handkerchief
linen, trimmed only with two white
pansies with dark centers
The few evening frocks imported by
Kruzman-usually the fall openings
are depended upon to set the mode in
ball gowns-are all without trains.
Velvet is the material to be most in
favor tulle and charmeuse following
The whole year, however, is to follow
where velvet leads.
For morning wear in the country or
seaside, nothing could be prettier than
flat-brimmed hat covered with linen
and trimmed with two long quilts or
with the new flowers which are made
of black chiffon velvet, such as roses
or lilies, or perhaps, better still, hand
some irises. For morning wear also
there are canotiers covered with
quaint chintz, with toile de Jouy. with
pongee and with pure white muslin.
Sailor hats covered with fine white
muslin are trimmed with clusters of
wild flowers, with soft white wings
or with a single black velvet rose Of
considerable size.
France and other nations of Europe
xryfSlrf,k - &1,<