davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1914-05-12
STREET COSTUMES ARE
UNUSUALLY ATTRACTIVE
A Great Deal of Embroidery is to be Notec
Waistcoats Embroidered with Woods are Some.
what New and Interesting

GONE Of the prettiest blouses of
null and handkerchief linen
designed for wear with the coat
suit are finished with draped fichus
Of white and these fchus are variously
finished with scallops and with frilIs.
Since flchus sashes and girdles all con
tribute largely to the picture effect
which is promised as a dominant note.
they are all important and all worthy
of note. We should not have needed
any authority to assure us that we
may have essentially dainty and
feminine fashions for afternoon and
evening occasions and still reserve the
more practical, simple designs for
morning, walking and the like but, as
if to set our minds at rest, we have the
authority Of NJ Worth in a recent
cabled account for such contrasts in
the seasons styles and it is likely that
the complete summer wardrobe will
show sturdy and even severe tailored
suits for climbing, walking and the
like even while the daintiest possible
creations are devised for the evening
hours. Since such fact will only mean
an interesting contrast in the costumes
Of the day, the condition is one to
be met with interest. Appropriate
ness always must be the real test of
what is desirable and it is the part Of
the woman's training to be able to
wear the severe costume of the morning
tramp with grace quite as we'll as the
beruffled and frilly one of the evening
dance.
Street costumes, which are always
the subject Of interest during the
spring, are unusually attractive and
a great deal of embroidery is to be
noted. An exceedingly handsome
suit of ivory white poplin is, for ex-
ample, worn with a black girdle
and is trimmed with small cut let
buttons and with little embroidery
on the coat executed in tiny Jet beads.
Summer gabardine is a favorite ma
terial and very beautiful one. A
handsome costume that gives evidence
OF the uses to which embroidery is put
is made Of the material in marine blue
embroidered in colored wools and this
embroidery is applied upon the collar
Of the blouse, the belt and the bands
Evening journal., 1914-05-12
SIMPLE COSTUMES
FOR SUMMER. DAYS
Fashionable Gowns Easily Made by the
Home Dressmaker

TUsT think Of iii You may have
all the pretty summer frocks you
~ want this year because everything
that is fashionable is easy to make
and you can run up your own gown
without any difficulty whatever. In
May there are sure to be all sorts Of
sales, and fashionable frocks take little
material, so that the cost Of the fabric
need not enter very largely into your
calculations. Time is a great con
sideration in these busy days, and
really such costumes as those that are
shown here require very little ex-
penditure.
Whether you make the skirt and
shfrtwaist Of the same material or
make the skirt Of linen, ratine or
cotton poplin or some heavier ma
terial Of the sort and the blouse Of a
thinner, lighter fabric Is entirely a
matter for you to decide, for fashion
states that both are correct and it
would not be a bad plan to have cos
tunes Of both sorts Undoubtedly
whole suits Of linen, soft finished plque.
Evening journal., 1914-05-12
oNG STRAIGHT aatherad ....i.

ONG straight gathered tunics
are among the very latest de-
veiopments Of the fashionable
world. They are put 70 fasc;n,t
ing uses whether made from
lace houncing or bordered mar
quisette, and beneath them NAV be
either a simple plain silk slip or plait.
ings OF silk or net or chiffon or anv
thin material or indeed anything that
makes good effect, for it is effect
that we are seeking and some
nouncings will be pretty over a colored
foundation, others over a white. I'm
questionably the simple two-piecs
skirt IS the correct one for all founda-
tons but one Of the very latest novel;
ties is the accordion plated skirt
beneath the tunic and this full straight
tunic Of lace is very charming over
accordion or fiat plating Of any thin
material in contrasting color.
We have talked a great deal about
the fascinating little coatees in bright
colored silks that are to be worn over
white gowns and unquestionabIy they
contribute their part to the general
picture effect Of the season but re-
Gently there have appeared coats made
OF lace louncing quite unlined or lined
summerlike in effect and smart in the
extreme. We will not wear a great
deal OF summer trimmings this sum-
mer; that is, lace insets, lace insertion,
lace frills and the like, but lace flounc-
ings and embroidered flouncings are
being put to wonderful uses and. not
infrequently, the two combined. The
silks Of summer are so thin and light,
so delightfully."- cool, that we use them
in combination with the most diaph-
anous stuffs. knowing that they will
be comfortable on even midsummer
days, so that everything seems to
contribute to an unusual season and
one Of infinite charm and exceptional
possibility.
Extremely attractive dancing and
dinner gowns are shown that combine
shadow lace houncing with embroid-
cred batiste. The straight under skirt
is of the batiste and over it is a tunic
OF lace houncing draped at the front
and over it again a shorter tunic Of
narrower houncing on cutaway lines
while the bodice is all Of lace with a
wide girdle Of bright colored ribbon
used as finish. A very fascinating
and very charming afternoon
costumes embroidered voile with
taffeta. The voile is an extremely
dainty. fine one and is embroidered
in an exquisite shade Of blue and the
taffeta matches this embroidery in
shade. The skirt is Of the silk laid in
perfectly fiat plaits and the long
straight tunic is Of the embroidered
voile. The bodiceis Of the silk trimmed
with plaitings Of the voile and it is
made in the simple kimono style with
fronts extended to form a sash and
this sash is wrapped around the hgur,
and knotted at the left side.
Evening journal., 1914-05-12

galatea or some fabric Of the sort are
handsome, but no woman needs to be
told the comfort Of the separate waist.
and this season these waists are made
in color as we'll as white.
The odd skirts shown here are one
Of plain eponge and one Of striped
linen crash. The eponge is brown in
color, for brown IS fad Of the season.
and the striped material is black and
white. With the brown skirt YOU
could wear white, yellow or cream
waist with great success. or a white
waist trimmed with color, and every
thing harmonizes with black and
white. Cotton crepe and cotton voiIe
are undoubted favorites for the sepa.
rate blouse. but there is also a great
deal Of handkerchief linen worn and
handkerchief linen is dyed to all
colors. Stripes and checks and figured
fabrics are all fashionable. Some way
the season makes il hard to 20 amiss
because you may just follow your own
taste In all such matters.
Evening journal., 1914-05-12
GARMENTS FOR
OUTDOOR RE
CREATION ARE
EASY TO MAKE
6hirt Waists OF MIiddv
Blouses and Simple
Skirts au'e Very
Appropriate

SERR 'uor1nai woman tvants, a
variety Of summer clothes.
pretty, fluffy. dainty costumes
lor sfRfe summer dances and for the
piazza and for all similar Functions
Andg eimple ones for golf, for tennis
md for moIirtain climbing. For
Enese latter every day uses, sififtwaists
nr middy biouses are really essential
and simple skirts are the only appro-
pr1ate ones, but we all know that Il Il
lust as essential to have the shirtwaist
andskirt designedfor golf cut on.smart
lines as tits to have the walking oos-
tune made after the latest model
Every one Of these skirts gives smart
lines. They are narrow enough to be
N style, yet they are not hamperinr
and you can trudge over the links.
you can reach for tennis balls or climb
q steep hill with perfect comfort In any
one Of them.
One Of the costumes here shows
white crepe in an embroidered design
in the bright colors that are known
IS tuturist and the trimming matches
one Of the shades Of green. II is a
singuIarly effective and very charming
rostume. yet it means neither mnch
cost nor much labor.
The young girls MILDLY costume
that IS shown next TO it gives evidence
Of the favor that is shown for strined
material and shows a line Of Copen-
hagen blue on a background Of white
linen. You will notice this blouse i
made with the fashionable raglan
sleeves, and remember when Won
think about it that these sleeves are
ideally comfortable as well as smart
The laced closing gives a smart touch
and, as matter Of course, the color
can be anything you may like. Cerise
ls unusually fashionable this summer
and some Of the green shades are lovely
on white. while yellow on white ALWAYS
gives a delightful sense Of GOODNESS
since yellow this season means an
infinite variety Of shades it is easy to
and pretty and becoming one.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
[. 5. BARRETT HEADS THE FARMERS UNION. Committee Named to Visit Capital in Interest of Cot
 ton Legislation


 Fort Worth, Tex, September 3.-Charles s. Barrett of Union City, Ga. was re- elected president, a committee was named to go to Washington in the interest of legislation, which would provide direct federal aid for the farmer in the present maket stagnation and rural credits plan was indorsed at the final session today of the tenth annual convention of the Farmers Educational and Co-opera- tive Union of America
 A W. Swift, Baker, Ore, was elected vice president. A c. Davis, Gravette, Ark.a secretary, and Peter Radford. Fort Worth, Tex, lecturer and organizer. The executive committee is composed of L. M Rhodes. Tennessee; o. F. Dornblazer. Iexas; |. c. Grove, Washington; c. c. Wright, South Carolina, and M. McAuliffe. Kansas
 The convention also approved recom- mendations of a committee which urged that all influence possible should be brought to bear in an effort to reduce the acreage of cotton and Nbbacco culti- vatfon next year
 The rural credits plan indorsed is fash toned after that now in effect in New Zea- land, and provides for direct support by the federal government.
 There IS no hope in sight for the land less, penniless man who desires to be- come the possessor of a farm and be- come an independent, producing American citizens,' the committee report. which Was adopted. declares, save through di- rect government aid along those lines that have proved so successful in New Zealand
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
AMENDMENTS TO FEDERAL RESERVE
 ACT ARE FAVORED

Washington, September 3.-Amendments to liberalize the federal reserve act were ordered fayorably reported today by the permit the federal reserve board to post pone payment of the second and subse- quent installments of stock subscription of member banks and postpone for not more than four months reserve require ments for member banks They would permit member banks to carry in the federal reserve banks any portion of their reserves now required to be held in their own vaults, and allow them to count as part of their lawful reserves, federal reserve notes up to 5 per cent of their net demand deposits.
 Other amendments would permit mem Der banks to incur additional liabilities on account of indorsement of foreign bills of exchange, ''two-name" commer- cial paper indorsed by 8 member bank and such acceptances as are permitted under rules of the board, not to ex- ceed twice the unimpaired capital and surplus of the bank
 They would also permit bills bought in the open market to be used as basis for the issue of federal reserve notes, and authorize the secretary of the treasury to designate the federal reserve banks as agents of the United States and of mem Der banks in the redemption of bank notes in circulation, including the AL drich-Vreeland emergency currency notes The amendments provide also for sys- tenn of clearance between the treasury federal reserve banks and the member banks
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
LINER MAURITANIA
 REACHES NEW YORK
1874 Passengers, Mostly Americans, Are Brought
 From War Zone

New York. September 3.--With her for ward superstructures and her four big stacks painted battleship gray. the cun- ard liner Mauretania, reached here to- night from Liverpool with 1574 passengers, most ofa them American refugees.
 The Mauretania was the fourth transat- lantic ship to reach this port today with persons who fled from Europe. The American liner New York, from England, the Italian vessel San Gnglieilno, from Naples, and the Greek liner Ioannina. from Piraeus and Patros, together with the Mauretania. removed nearly 3600 per sons fl om the theatre of conflict abroad.
 Two former American diplomats, George Von l.. Meyer, who was amba ssador to Italy. and Oscar s. Straus. who was ann bassador to Turkey, were among the pas sengers.
 Tn the opinion of MT. Straus, who be- lieved 1t was for the highest welfare of the United States to maintain her neu- trality, the time will come when the mediary power of this country will become absolutely necessary to save the exhaus- tion of the nations"
 MT. Straus declared he considered 1t would be unwise for the American gov. ernment to buy ships except such as it needs for it's own purposes,
 Il am sure" he said, that the leading authorities on international law in our country would disapprove of the govern ment owning commercial ships which might carry on commerce with belligerent nations, for with the utmost care grow ing out of the different constructions Of what Is contraband, serious neutrality questions would arise which might have possibilities of projecting us into war"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
DECLINES TO ALLOW U. s. CRUISER
 PASSAGE THROUGH
 THE DARDANELLES
ocoutinued from Page o.e)

war on either Russia or Great Britain In that event they deem it more pru- dent to keep the cruiser away from the scene of possible naval conflicts
 The incident recalled past relations be- tween the United States and Turkey on the passage of foreign warships through the Dardanelles. The United States never has recognized the right of Turkey to close the straits to foreign warships in time of peace, although European pow CTS have agreed to it. The American government merely has recognized the custom of excluding foreign warships as
 "a usage"
 Fish's Position
 Secretary of State Fish in 1873 wrote in this connection to the Turkish gov ernment:
 The abstract right of the Turkish government to obstruct the navigation of the Dardanelles even to vessels of war in time of peace is a serious question The right. however, has for long time been claimed and been sanctioned by treaties between Turkey and certain Flu ropean states. A proper occasion may arise for us to dispute the applicability of the claim to the United States men of war. Meanwhile it Is deemed expe- dient to acquiesce in the exclusion
 Officials here agreed that the inmi '-N''NN expedient at this time for the American government to press it's request that the North Carolina be granted passage.
 The Turkish situation was discussed to- day by Count Von Bernstorff, the Ger man ambassador, and A. Rustem Bey the Turkish ambassador, and also occu- pied the attention of the British and French amba ssadors.
 From Turkish officials it was learned that the first declaration of war probably would be against Russia and that Tur- wey's delay in announcing her intentions was due to her desire to complete mili- tary preparations
 The Turkish ambassador said Turkish mobilization had been in progress for nearly month and that he believed 500.- GOO or possibly 1,00o.00O men had been en- rolled. He reiterated that the mobiliza- tion was not aimed at Greece or Bull garia.
 Diplomats generally believe Greece i'm mediately will align herself with the al- lies against Turkey if the latter de- cares war. The expectation also is grow ing that Italy is preparing to side with the allies. If she intended to, stand by Germany and Austria, they believe notf- fication already would have been sent to Italian ships to stay in neutral ports and avoid British war vessels.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04

vance" continued the Marion educa tor, "has been fostered and led by tho press of the commonwealth, both tn. country weeklies and the big dailies These informing agencies have created and directed public opinion and called for large and liberal educational pro. grammes."
 The Marion institute. according to MT Murfee has established a press bureau to serve the large group of states from which Marion draws patronage, going as far west as Washington state and as far north as Massachusetts.
 In speaking of the establishment of this bureau Mr. Murfee said:
 Last session the students of the
 institute were requested to hand in
 to the press bureau the names of
 their country weekly papers and
 the big dailies read in their homes.
 In Alabama these records showed
 conspicuous majority-about so
 per cent-of students subscribing
 to and reading The Age Herald
 Birmingham's morning paper seems
 to be particular favorite with the
 Marion boys"
 Murfee stated that he was particu- larly interested in an article on the relation of President Woodrow Will son to the institute which appeared in last Sundays issue of The Age-Her- aid.
 T have received scores of letters
 were aware that MT. Wilson was
 commenting on the article.' de-
 clared MT. Murfee. While many
 deeply interested in the institute
 few knew that his relationship was
 so close.''
 Visiting in Birmingham with MT. Murfee was Mai. B. B. Clarkson, for rnerly of the Virginia Military insti- tute and now director of military science of the Marion institute MT. Clarllsen brings to Marion an excep- tionally brilliant record from the Vir- ginia institution, having been a star athlete of that college and conspicuous in it's military systcm. He will have charge of military work at the insti- tute this fall and will devote his time especially toward equipping students for entrance at West Point and An napolis. The Virginia Military as is well known Is second only to West Point in military efficiency and MT. Clarkson is we'll prepared to instruct students wishing to enter .Ae national academies in military technique and discipline.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
SOUTH AMERICA IS SPARALYzED AS
 RESULT IF WAR
Credit Wiped Out and Mer- chants Unable to Place Orders-United States
 Only Hope

New York, September s.-.'North Ameri- cans cannot appreciate the terrible. pre- dicament South American republics are in as result of the European conflict. There has been complete paralysis of trade, and the paralysis extends even to foodstuffs. Credit has been wiped out and merchants are unable to place orders as all business heretofore has been done with European firms
 Conditions in Latn-America thus were summarized tonight at conference here of consular representatives of all the Latin-American republics, who met to consider commercial conditions in their countries due to the war in Europe.
 The only possible relief for these con diuons, according to sentiment expressed at the meeting, lies in extension of credit by United States exporters ana manu- facturers.
 These South American countries" said Browne Willis, of Costa Rica, secretary of the meeting, now naturally turn to the United States as a base of supply and also as a distributing center, but they find themselves absolutely devoid of a means to accomplis htheir purpose"
 This, MT. Willis said, is due to two causes. The American manufacturer is unprepared to meet the sudden demand forced on him and is unable to extend facilities and credits on d safe basis. The failure of the European countries to ab- sorb the usual quota of Spanish-Ameri- can products cannot be offset by divert ing these products to the United States because the United States cannot be ex- pected to absorb the whole Spanish-Amer- jean output.
 It is to relieve this situation, the state ment said, that the Latin-American con suls in New York are endeavoring to devise plan to solve the problem
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
VICTORIAN BADLY
 HURT IN GAR CRASH
Thomas Doran Fatally In- jured When Cars Collide
 in Montgomery Thursday

Montgomery September 3-Thomas Doran, motorman, was fatally injured Stewart Missisdine. an extra motorman, dangerously crushed. and Mrs. John Fay and Miss Nellie Watkins, passengers on an electric car were painfully hurt when heavily laden flat car carrying con crete and slag, crashed into the passen- ger car at Bibb and Court streets this afternoon at o'clock. The flat car broke away from its pilot work car at the top of Madison avenue hill, half a mile away, and was going 40 miles an hour when the collision occurred.
 Doran was crushed between the cars and internally injured. while one of Mis- sildine's legs had to be amputated at the infirmary
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
CARRANZA AND AIDS DISCUSS THE
 ELECTION PLANS

Mexico City, September 3.--Provfs- ional President Carranza and the vari- ous government heads were in session many hours today discussing plans for meeting of the army chiefs from all parts of the republic to determine the manner and the date for calling gen. eral elections. It is reported a num- Der of generals are on their way to the capital to attend the meeting.
 The disposition seems to be to ar range for the substitution of civil regime for the military regime at the earliest date possible.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
Murfee Finds Families Of Students Subscribe For
 and Read The Age-Herald
Marion President Instructed Boys to Name Paper Read Their Homes-Eighty Per Gent Named Age Herald-Ed-
 ucational Situation in Alabama and Press Plays

President H. o. Murfee of the Ma iron institute, who is in the city at the Tutwiler, speaks Interestingly and of education in Ala bama and the part the press of the state is playing in behalf of education
 'The state of Alabama declared MT. Murfee yesterday. in discussing the sit uation, lis conspicuous for it's construc-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
Receive Dispatch

Washington, September 3.-The apos- tolic delegate to the United States, Monsignor Bonzano. received a cable dispatch tonight making the official announcement of the election of the new pope to succeed the late Plus K. The dispatch was from Cardinal Van nutelli. dean of the college of cardinals, and said:
 "Cordinal Della Chiesa elected pope; name Benedict KY"
 The delegation spoke of the new pope as a man of great spirituality, widely esteemed throughout the hier- |archy and one having widespread ex-
 The delegate spoke of the new
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04
Deaths and Funearls
Lucius Hill Irwin

Funeral services over the remains of Lucius Hin Irwin. aged years. the son of Mir. and Mrs. Lucius Irwin, who died Wednehday at the residence. 5l4 Cotton avenue. West End. were conducted yes terday morning from the residence. In- torment followed in Elmwood cemetery.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-09-04

tive educational policies and progress. The higher institutions are making not able advance in establishing standards and exercising helpful leadership The common schools which lay the founda- tion for scholarship and learning, un der able leadership, are being invigor- ated with new life.
 This remarkable educational ad