Evening star., 1914-04-07
BY ANNE RITTENHOUsE.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS. March %. 1914.
The new materials are quite attractive.
The four most popular ones are well
known by name. golfine. gabardine.
moire taffeta and Chinese crepe. Lne
rarely sees these four staple fabrics omit
ted in any dressmaking house.
They are manipulated in various ways
chosen in many colors. and combined
with still other fabrics, but one is sure to-
find them. z---.--- -----
There is also a weave of silk which is'
exceedingly fine and soft, and is widely
used over here for separate short coats,
for waistcoats. for Turkish girdles and
sometimes for skirts.
1t is rarely plain. and usually bears the
imprint of broad stripes in strong colors,
which is a revived design from revolu-
ton days. 1t is usually called satin for
want of better name, but it is really not
the same weave. II one does not care
for its broad stripping in costumery. let
me assure YOU it makes admirable sofa
cushions. When they are three feet long
eighteen inches wide. very slirnly stuffed
and edged with a deep border of black
satin ribbon. they are one of the first nov
elites of the season.
Of plain satin there is little. Every
be individualists who will continue to
wear it. Here and there one sees evening
gowns of ii. such as a wonderful royal blue
made by Cberuit. without a single touch
tire beauty is in the skillful draping and
it is kept from the skin of the neck and
arms by band of white tuIle
Again Yards of Tulle.
There is no disposition on the part of
the manufacturers to drop tulle. Miles
OF it are used this season, as entire gowns
and in connection with other fabrics. Lace
plays dominant part in gowns for the
afternoon and evening. and that artistic
design of vermicelli lace. invented by
Callot. is widely used over colored satins
or taffetas. or as an overdress for tulle.
The objection against this lace is its
expense. Callot asks SS2J for gown of
II, although she will substitute an imita-
tion OF the best weave for $50. These
prices. by the way. will show you that
France has decreased the value of her
clothes this year, although there has
never been more talk of a bad season. of
impending bankruptcy and of the crash
Ing of some big houses.
OF the popularity of taffeta there is no
use to talk. America may or may not
use it. but Europe is enthusiastic over it.
When one asks why. the answer is that
itself. is an evidence of the fashion ten
dency. We are certainly punched up
IN the back. for the pannier. the minaret
and the hustle have resolved themselves
into this huge puff just below the waist
line.
New Laces Are Artistic.
Doucet has a remarkably clever lace
designer who has invented a trimming
that may be called lace for want of
more descriptive name. 1t is fine silk
net, on which are applied hounces of
thicker net outlined with a tiny silver
thread. or sometimes a white silk thread
The house uses this in deep ruffies on
Innings OF satin or taffeta. 1t is also made
into loose short capes that are gathered
to a neckband and hang over a decollete
evening gown.
What is known as lame Iace-pro-
nounced in two syllables, with the accent
on the els growing in fashion. 1t was
invented last summer, and is quite effec-
tive with Its fat. thinly rolled silver