The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1914-09-20
ny CLAUDE cHERys.

who were anxious TO give ali possible
help IN this moment of anxiety. when
nearly gil Enrope IS at war. Many very
happy and helpful suggestions were
made and much useful work arranged.
Bot before the meeting closed the
charming woman whose name has Of
ten been mentioned In these pages
Princess Nera-inade a few remarks
which were very much to the point.
She also made a direct appeal
In speaking Of the terrible MAR she
rointed out that great harm might
easily he done ny well intendoped per
xaus fhp inclination IF th7 U177T7rT1t
was TO throw aside everything except
work for the soldiers and their fam
flies, and extreme economy. She pointed
our that this exceeding economy was
of course right and necessary Ito a Ger
fatr extent" bur THAT II carried n the
point os cxaggeration it would work
immense harm. That, in fset such
ECONOMY would make it Impossible
for an immense number ~ honest and
hard working men and women to find
employment and IN this way the gem
eral position of Europe would be made
stiil more difficult.
Princess Vera laid special stress upon
the necessity of continuing, so far as
was possible the usual social life She
was strongly opro~~s TO the sudden
closing Of slha-.rsM sMA concert halls
and equally op-a~~d =. - idea Of set
ting the QUESTION at fAsssons aside as
unworthy OF -N.~~>-~-fSo~s moment /
Will quote a ~n.w~~~S the closing SEN
fences OF her -s~ery~
at feel strongly that we should all
set aside mere iuxur}es---that is 10 say.
personal luxDrIes. But l am convinced
THAT we should he doing wrong II we
forced the managers of theatres, music
halls and concert halls TO close their
6oors who Is going to support the
artists who would in that event be
thrown out of employment? In the
same position are 10 be found the
thousands Of work girls who are daily
employed by our ing dressmakers and
yniiinars II wre. by u concerted action,
refuse TO purchase new gowns and TO
interest ourselves In new fashions and
If. because of that refusal. trade Is
paralyzed in Paris and In London
.Iet lis Join together and do every
thing in our power to help those brave
fellows who are in action, hut do not
let us create abject misery at home.
We who have money to spare can
continue our ordinary methods of life
and still have enough for every rea-
sonabie call that may be made upon
us AT such moment as this 1t would
he criminal TO spend money on mere
iuxurses, hut / think it Is our duty to
spend money freely in the usual way
In order that vast number or un-
offending persons may not be thrown
out of employment"
have quoted the final words of the
address. and these only. but from start
TO fnish 1t was full Of useful and slim
mating suggestions. Some of those
present at the meeting seemed. at first
Mortified at the idea Of allowing the
streams of social life tn flow in the
usual way--~at such a time. But grad
ually the truth Of Princess Neras suE-
gestions made themselves felt and l
am convinced that they VIII bring forth
valuable fruit.
have sketched these two beautiful
evening NANTES which were created in
Paris for the September season at Biar-
ritz. These mantles herald the fashions
OF Tomorrow They illustrate two eX-
trerne ideas In regard to evening cloaks-
No. ] figure shows n Worth model Of
extreme charm and beauty. II was
an absolutely regal mantle: long, ample
and rich as regards material The
wide lace flounces were in the finest
black Chantilly lace and the curious
brncade which forms the groundwork
OF the cloak was Of a deep shade of
Chinese blue with raised designs worked
In various shades Of dun blue, red
black and white.
These ernbroideries were inset with
quaint plaques Of mother of pearl, af-
ter the manner of the fine embroideres
seen on some Of the more valuable
Chinese screens. The mantle was lined
with dull blue chiffon yelled ia black
and these combined materials also APP
peared on one Of the finunces and on
the wide frilI which formed the collar
The second figure shows one of the
new, entirely transparent evening
NANTES which are apparently shape
less and give such delightful results
when cleverly draped round graceful
figure. Mime. Paquin was the creator
OF the mantle shown in this sketch and
The material was chalk white chiffon
bordered with white fox. a quantity
OF chiffon was nsed In the creation of
this cloak 1t was immensely long and
wide ana the HOunce WnlCh b0rdered
the hem was finely pleated. A pctur-
esaue frili. invisibiy wired. framed the
head and neck and there was no lining.
The outline of the figure and dress was
plainly seen through the soft folds Of
chiffon.
recently saw a similar mantle made
OF moonlight blue tulle and bordered
with skunk. 1t was worn over q sheath
gown covered with moonlight blue
beads and paillettes and the effect pas
inexpressibly charming
A well known dressmaker In the Rue
de la Paix showed me TWO mantles of
the same order which were made Of
.Tosca" silk net and ernbroidf red In
hand. with fine metallic threads One
Of these models was in Egyptian blue
net and the embroideries were done in
metallic green and pale gold. There
was a round yoke made Of black brett
schwanz. into which the soft folds Of
net were finely gathered.
J have II on the best authority that
many Of the evening cioaks of the COM
ing winter will resemble, in outline, the
ultra long capes which have been the
rage OF the summer season. These