Evening journal., 1914-03-18
COLORED COATES WITH TAFFETA
SKIRTS FIND POPULAR FAVOR
Plain Silk FrOcks Show
Sleeves and PepIums
of Brilliant Contrast
ing Shades
FRILLED PAJANA
NEGLIGEES

Nersauon among women as they gaze
at the displays in the shop windows
and sip their tea in the spacious tea
rooms Of the downtown department
stores.
Isathe hustle 10 be treated serious
ly? Are panniers and reeded tunics
to continue accentuating the hip-line.
er will more slender lines be in
vague? Are the Cubist colorings
staple enough for the woman of
moderate means to indulge in. or will
there be revulsion Of feeling to-
ward the plain colors?
These and many more are the ques-
tions botherug the feminine mind
even of the most serious of women
who realize the Importance of being
well dressed They are hurled one
after another at those who ought to
know" but can be answered only by
faithfully reporting what Is being
worn by the ultra smart, who easily
govern the styles for the average
woman.
illustrated are two styles for Sprine
and Summer wear. The first pic
ture shows a waist of green goliine.
The fullness at the neck is is laid in
pleats. The shoulder-line is smartly
long with plain set-in sleeves. A
rolling collar of doubled white or
CANDY flares out from the neck and
a stif little bow of black gives the
finish 10 the neck. while dainty. mar
row turn-back cuffs give the proper
NTt ta 0IT a.
with O white serge skirt, which but
tons down the front and has set-in
pleats at the bottom
TIE model which | have used for
my other illustration is made OF
antique crepe In Roman stripes. with
green as a predominating color. A
short peplum is heightened by
gathered rufile. and with this Is worn
a faille silk skirt of green. A chemi-
settle OF fine batiste and footing is
worn with this waist, and the collar
and belt are Of green faille silk
At recent Spring opening many
beautiful gowns we're seen whose
combination of colors and materials
was most striking and not TO be for
gotten when remodeling a last sea
sons frock.
A handsome gown of brick-colored
moire has sleeves of brick-colored
taffeta. A crushed sash girdle OF
taffeta has wide bead fringe follow
ing the lower edge.
A striking afternoon frock is de.
veloped in blue crepe de Chine. with
sleeves of figured green silk A
fitted peplum of green, longer in
front, is edged with a narrow cuff
and a wide, pleated fiounce of blue
/ is attached underneath It. making n
/ long tunic This is a smart style
If utilized by a master dressmaker,
but an amateur should view il with
! distrust, for it can be smart, and it
may be patchy.
Combinations Of color and material
do not confine themselves to suits
and costumes alone, but are also seen
among waists and blouses of linen,
lawn, net and silk
A handsome waist of embroidered
net has a collar. and half of the cum
ming vestee, of lace, with the lower
I part of yellow silk, which is stitched
on to the lace. A tiny, fiat bow of
black picot-edged ribbon is placed
squarely at the end of the V-neck. A
little touch of black is seen on white
and colored waists. Il gives depth
and character TO combinations which
might otherwiss appear inane
The old-fashioned shirt waist is ap-
pearing in a new-fashioned garment
of blue, pink, green and yellow linen.
! Large square collars and rounding
/ Japanese or kimono collars of white
/ are fastened on to these waists. Tiny
hemstitched beading is used 10 con-
meet the sleeves and waist, and be-
tween the box pleat in the front and
the rest of the waist.
Among the novelties was a sleeve
less waist of delicate shell pink taf-
, of gold tissue.
! Black skirts and white skirts will
probably be worn a great deal during
/ the coming season, especially with
+ coates of bright coloring.
/ These coatees are often made with
I body and sleeve in one, short with
| three-quarter sleeves. A full circular
or gathered rufiie Is fastened TO the
[ bottom of the coat and on the edge
Of the sleeves These ruffles are
sometimes doubled and at other times
have picot edge, but are seldom, If
ever, hemmed.
A charming coatee of brilliant
petrole blue is worn with a black taf-
reta skirt. which has two wide doubled
rufies around the hips The edges Of
these rufles meet in the back and are
faced back with silk the same shade
as the coatee, thus giving the con-
Meeting link between the two gar
ments
A bright green coatee of faille silk
+ is seen with a white taffeta skirt. A
white japanese collar rolled away
/ from the neck
Goats in brilliant colors are also
shown. one OF deep pink popln being
particularly handsome. The length lof
the waist portion is normal. 4 belt at
least seven inches wide attaches the
skirt portion TO the waist. This lower
section is cut in a half square, point
coming on either side OF the back and
ripping, 30 that the lowered silk lining
lis visible. Aside from a collar Of white
crepe embroidered with pink there is no
contrasting color on tnis coat.
Similar coats Of moirc and tafieta are
displayed in such a fashion that one
cannot help believing that the stores at
least believe .hcy Will be most popular
Corduroy is also used TO develop
Spring coats of more tailored variety.
The raglan coat is still supreme, and is
seen with variations in collars. which
are square at the back and long in front,
in complementary colors. A handsome
lone of checked worsted had the two
backs cut so that they met in a bias
seam in the back. A straight band Of
the same material was stitched around
the bottom and up the front closing.
4 now sfvle of sleepino garment shows