The Republican journal., 1914-11-26
Barataria and Grand Isle.

In a review Of a book. "The Fountain OF
Youth" by Charles Tenney Jackson. in which
the adventures of two bachelors in Barataria
are told. the Boston Transcript says: "Bara-
taria is in the southeastern part of Louisiana.
in the parish of Plaquemimes: it is about fif-
teen miles long and six miles wide and borders
on the Gulf of Mexico;" and further, "prob-
ably not many Americans ever heard of Bara-
taria." There happens to be one of the
few (?) in this city who has not only heard
of it but been there. Then the author, writ
fortunate day Grand Isle will be discovered
and muddled over with hotels and tourists and
its warm, gentle surf cluttered up with sum-
mer girls" There were summer girls at Grand
Isle AZ years ago. and what passed for hotel,
and although somewhat primitive it was de-
lightful resort.
There was yellow fever epidemic in the
summer of 1867,with a maximum death rate of
over one hundred day. The writer escaped
yellow fever, but had an intermittent fever,
barely pulling through a second relapse. and
was then sent to Grand Isle to recuperate'
Crossing the Mississippi by ferry from the
stocklanding above the city a short walk
brought one to the head of Harvey's Canal
where the little sternwheel steamer San Mich
olas, built for the trade, was boarded for Grand
Isle The canal was but little wider than the
boat and each side were tall cyprus trees
with streamers of grey moss hanging from
their limbs. Now and then cabin would be
seen in little clearing on the bank occasionally
pirogue "a dugout canoe) bringing load of
wood from the recesses of the swamp, and
looking over the side of the steamer the out
line of an alligator would be revealed in the
dark water, The boat kept on her course dur
ing the night and the next morning was IN
Grand Lake, broad sh eet of water with low
reedy shores. The San Nicholas landed stores
at dilapidated wharf for Fort Livingstone a
mile or more away, and then skirted the land
ward side of Grand Isle and landed her passen
gers at small wharf. A road led to the Grand
Isle Hotel, few hundred yards distant The
island is 9 miles long and 2 miles wide. A
grove of live oaks extends nearly the whole
length of the center of the island and shelters
the buildings on the landward side from the
occasional gales that sweep across the Gulf of
Mexico. On the seaward side is a fine beach
facing the Gulf, There are, or were, few
houses on the farther end of the island.
The hotel occupied what had formerly been
large sugar plantation The sugarhouse had
been burned, but the other buildings remained.
The plantation house was reserved for the
ladies' and married people, and the men were
given the negro quarters, little cabins of two
rooms each, which had been made spotless by
lavish use of whitewash. A one story build
ing with wide veranda had one large room
used as an office, billiard room and bar, and op-
posite was another building in which the meals
were served. The hotel was conducted by a
French or Swiss family named Margot-father,
mother, and two grown daughters-and they
looked we'll to the comfort of their guests.
About sunrise the ringing of the old planta-
ton bell would rouse those who wanted to
take a morning dip in the waters of the Gulf,
and fortified with cup of coffee and biscuit,
the bathers would take seats in an ambulance
drawn by pair of mules for ride to the
beach, about half mile distant. The ladies
were left at the bathhouse, given over for their
exclusive use until noon, the ambulance carry
ing the men farther down the beach. 1t was
delightful bathing in the warm, salty water
There were two rows of breakers, and to reach
the outer row one had to swim short distance,
but when in the breakers the water was about
waist deep. Few ventured farther out for fear
of sharks. On returning to their quarters
some went to bed again, for breakfast was not
served until $50. The fishermen meanwhile
were drawing their selnes, and the fish AND
oysters which figured largely in the menu
were Just from the water. The table was all
that could be desired by lovers of sea food
appetizingIy prepared and deftly served, ano
the invalids among the guests thrived on the
| fare.
| One day trip was made across Baratarla
Bay in a sailing craft to Cheniere Camanada.
on the main land. The land here was quite
high, rising abruptly from the shore, the
cottages of the residents, who comprised For
tuguese, Creole, Indians and Italians. perched
here and there on the bank, surrounded by
orange. lemon, fig. mulberry, oleander, pome-
granate, and live oak trees. Pirogues were
hauled up on the shore and moored off were
the luggers in which their owners, fishermen
hunters and trappers, pursued their calling Of
sailed to New Orleans to market their products
and wares. 1t was picturesque and interest
ing place.
What has happened in the nearly half cen
tury since the writer was sojourner at Crane
Isle he is unable to tell; but it certainly was
not terra incognito then. GAP