davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
STARCH FOR FILMY
NEW COLLARS

Those fascinating flmy lawn and or
CANDY collars are not such an extrava-
gance as they may seem, II one knows
how to launder them properly True, the
fragile things cannot usoaily be worn
more than once or twice. as they show
wrinkles as obviously a. q linen shirt
waist. And the least bit of moisture
reduces them to a limp ras.
But in their crisp, freshly laundered
state they are undoubtedly fascinating
and obdurate, indeed. must be the woman
who passed them by. Poor laundering.
however. renders these collars quite un-
fit for wear. The secret Of doing them
up right Hes In the starch. Frequently
ironing while wet imports sufacient ttiR-
ness. but,- II not. the collars should be
starched in a mixture made as follows:
Add q piece Of parafnn the size Of an
egg and . piece Of white or CASTLE soap
theF sire Of q haselnut to quart OF
boiling water. Mix the starch with cold
water in q bowl. using whatever pro-
portion Of starch to a quart Of water
particular brand Of starch calls for. to
mal<s thin starch. Add the cold mix
ture to the boiling water and let II boil
up two OF. three times. A smaller quantity
may be made In proportion to the msas-
ureOents given.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
ROSES
MADE AT HOME

Artificial flowers are used to trim ap-
parel from the top of the towering hats
to the toes of the dainty slippers, and un-
less you have an exhaustless purse 1t Is
well to learn to make some Of these flow-
ers at home.
The most popular flower is the rose
those dainty French roses used SO much
on evening frocks. babies bonnets, bou-
doir caps sachets, etc. The smaller roses
are made of silk, or satin or Of chiffon;
the larger of silk. gauze. satin, or velvet.
These may be made all of one color or in
several pastel shades that blend well.
Calyxes and foliage of green or bronze
can be purchased at art needlework
shops or counters.
The rosebuds Of these tiny flowers are
made by forming a wee ball Of cotton
and covering 1t with silk. 1t Is easy to
get the effect Nof folded petals with the
silk over this foundation.
To make the larger roses cut eleven
petals each from your two materials, vel
vet and satin. silk gauze, and silk; or
from two tones Of the same material.
Make them larger than you desire the
finished petal to be. as two petals are
sewn together to form one.
Lay the two petals together Zone velvet,
one satin) back to back. Seam them
carefully. excepting at the bottom OF the
petal. and then turn them right side out.
Make a small disk Of silk or stiffening
and tack the larger petals around 1t In
a circle, gradually decreasing the size Of
the petals as you near the center Of the
flower. Put one of the centers you
bought In the middle of each. Fix each
petal SO all joining stitches are concealed,
and fasten the rose to its calyx and 1oli-
age.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
RHUBARB INVALUABLE
AS Spring FRUIT"

Rhubard. prior to 1732, was thought to
be a root coming from the banks Of the
Volga and the Caspian Sea, but 1t was
subsequently discovered that IL originally
came from the elevated lands of Tartary
and the neighboring Chinese province OF
Shensee and Se-Chuen. Even that which
was known as Turkey rhubarb was
brought by caravan from Tartary.
Rhubarb. rich in invigorating medi-
cinal qualities. is valued the world over
as a food. 1t is the spring fruit that
our grandmothers set such a store by.
Among the not generally known rhu-
barb recipes are the following:
Wash the rhubarb and cut it In inch
pieces; then stew it An little more than
half its weight in sugar and a little
water. Use very little water, for the
juice OF the rhubarb forms plentifully
just as soon as cooking begins. Make
batter. using to a pint of -four two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a half
teaspoonful of salt and a scant cupful
of sweet milk. Drop 1t by the spoonful
into the boiling rhubarb. This should be
eaten hot. with or without cream.
This is an excellent relish to serve
with cold meats. or it can be used as a
layer-cake filling.
Wash and cut FIVE pounds of rhubarb
a time. with five pounds Of sugar. This
should be put In. a china or agate bowl,
for it must be let stand over night.
In the morning cut over a pound and
a half of figs into bits and pour water
over them; then add the rhubarb and
the grated rind and juice Of two lemons.
and cook until thick.
Wash a dozen stalks of rhubarb, cut
them up and cook for ten minutes In
three pints of water. Put into q pitcher
the thinly peeled yellow rind Of two
lemons and a cup of sugar. and while
hot strain the liquor from the rhubarb
over the lemon and sugar and stand away
in a cool place, or put on ice until thor
oughly chilled. Serve with little grated
nutmeg on each glass and more sugar
IL desired.
In planning spring menus get as far a.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21

veniently be put through the holes. The
pin or toothpick is. then removed and
the button pulled out from the goods.
and while holding it between the thumb
and finger of one hand, the needle Is
run through the material from the wrong
side to the right, and the thread wound
around the shank formed by the threads
of cotton that hold the button. After
four or five wrappings, the needle is run
through to the wrong side. and the cot
ton fastened OF by taking three over and
over stitches. For this kind of work.
No. so cotton should be used; on very
fine materials. such as batiste and lawn,
70. or even so. cotton is a better number.
Buttonhole Making Requires Care.
The buttonholes must be. given quite
as much attention as the buttons or
they will tear out and the clothes will
look shabby long before they are worn
out The same number cotton Is used
to work the buttonholes as is used to
sew on the buttons To work a dura-
BILE buttonhole. in heavy materials. mark
with a thread. or tailor's chalk. the ex-
act place, and length, it is to be made;
then make a row of machine stitching
on either side of the marking, as close to
the line as possible The material is then
cut with a sharp pair of scissors along
the marking line and between the rows
OF stitching, and the buttonhole worked
in the regular way, taking the stitches
over tine machine stitching. OF course. the
machine stitching cannot be used as
means of Strengthening the edges when
working buttonholes in the materials
Bibs will be needed with all-day dresses
and IL a goodly supply-say at least six
are made mothers will find that they will
help to solve the problem of how to keep
baby presentable at all times These little
can be as plain or as elabo-
rate as desired. but the majority of moth
ers look upon these as a necessary part
Of the wardrobe and not a thing Of great
beauty, and therefore have them as plain
and practical as possible. Quilted muslin
is generally employed for the bib, and the
edge is finished with a scant frill of lawn
lace or embroidery. The neck Is bound
with a soft piece of bias lawn, and a but
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
Lingerie Frock Has Alpays
Appealed To Feminine Heart

II there was ever . time In the history
Of fashions when the lingerie frock failed
to appeal 10 the feminine heart II y un-
recorded in the book OF modes. In itself
the lingerie gown IL not modern crea-
tion. II has been brought into the lime
light and renamed, but II 10 the same 1T
tie white frock Of which generations OF
poets have sung and In which bellies OF
ancient and modern times have chosen
to have their portraits made.
When the maid Of ancient Greece want
ed to appear at her best she draped her
splendid form in soft folds Of white-it
was the lingerie frock Of her age.
Same OIA Gown.
When the mid-victorian maid wanted
to appear particularly fragile and fem
inine and shrinking and modest. she as
sumed a frock Of muslin set out with
many rufies, and banded perchanee with
q sash in some pale shade. 1t was just
the costume in which she could appear to
her best advantage As the fainting. DELI
cate being all true ladies of that time
were supposed to be.
Back In war times" when our grand
mothers and mothers and aunts were
most active. they dressed In white mus
lin or white Swiss with their hair adorned
with q blue snood or a pink rose when
they wanted to make the most lasting
impression on the soldier boys as they
marched away, and more than one of the
brave chaps carried with him through the
smoke Of battle or the glow of the camp
fire the vision of his well beloved In a
simple frock Of white with lovely soft
lace at thrSat and wrists.
Locking We'll In White.
When we ourselves were young. the
most dressy dress of which We have
knowledge was q starched white frock
with the blue sash. which we wore the
last day of school, when we had some
important part In the program. and
which later was the frock for the dane
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
CARE OF THE TEETH
Is A RESPONSIBILITY

Especially when II Comes to Chill
dren who Dislike Such Details.
Some Good Dentifrices.
When tooth powder is used great care
should be taken to select one that con-
tains neither gritty matter nor any sub
stance which can attack the enamel.
Some substances contain hard particles
which scrape the enamel and bring about
the decay the powder is intended to pre-
vent.
Sweet pastes. containing grape-sugar or
syrup. develop acids which dissolve the
enamel covering Of the teeth, and once
that is penetrated the underlying bony
substance rapidly rots away.
A Simple Dentifrice.
The following dentifrices are among the
best of their kind:
Powdered orris. 30 grains: oil Of cloves.
minims: precipitated chalk, s drains.
Oil Of eucalyptus, Is minims: powdered
CASTLE soap. l dram; precipitated chalk,
ounce.
To Prevent Decay.
Light magnesium carbonate, Y drains;
borax, 2 drains: oil of eucalyptus, 5
minims: precipitated calcium carbonate.
drams.
II oil of cloves is not liked its place
may be taken in any of the foregoing
prescriptions by oil Of peppermint or oil
of cinnamon. The cleansing power Of
tooth powders Is increased by the pres
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
ARE AMERICAN
eeaaPiExIoHs IMPROVING!

There is considerable discussion oe
the point in. all beauty journals today
and as near as we can CLEAN the opin-
ion Is that the discarding of pore-clog-
ging powders has made for decided
Increase in beauty of the American
woman's complexion.
A plain lotion is best for the COM
plexion because 1t protects the skin
and gives to it an indefinable charm
and elegance impossible with powder
or rouge. To prepare q perfect lotion
at home. dissolve ounces spurmax.
which you get from your druggist. In
u pint hot water or witch hazel and
add teaspoonfuls glycerine. The spur
max lotion cannot be detected when
on and single application lasts an en-
tire day. II blends 30 nicely with the
skin that spotting or streaking ID Inn
possible. This. lotion is splendid for
that shiny. oily appearances and other
complexion upsets. 1t will give to .
rough. aged skin. a smoothness and
youth-tint truly charming.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
STRAWBERRY DESSERTS.

After a long winter of rich and heavy
desserts We are all more than willing to
turn to lighter ones made Of fruits. or to
ices. Strawberries are more than likely
to top or the average Sunday dinner
for some time to come. and there are as
many ways Of serving them in addition
to the familiar shortcake and straw
berries and cream" combination. that we
seldom tire of them. As for shortcake.
keen rivalry exists between lovers of a
beautiful but deceptive dish made of
sponge cake. whipped cream, and berries.
and the rather unprepossessing cake of
biscuit dough. ''the kind that mother used
to make" Here's a fairly safe tip-f
cooking to please a man, make the latter;
IL the guest of honor Is a woman. the
former; but like all sure things" 1t has
exceptions.
Strawberry charlotte Is a variation of
our old friend, charlotte russo. Line a
glass dish with sponge cake or lady fin
gers. cover the bottom with mashed,
sweetened berries. and heap whipped
cream over ALL Geiatine can be added
to the berries II q more solid dessert is
desired
The ingredients Of strawberry hufr-
about as substantial as its name-are the
whites of four eggs, one and half cups
of sugar and a quart of berries Mash
fruit and sugar together. add the whites
and beat until light and. foamy. Serve in
a deep glass dish or tall glasses.
Strawberry souffie. Over quart of
prepared berries pour a custard made
OF five eggs. one quart Of milk. a pinch
of salt, and sugar to taste Cover with
a meringue made by adding four table
spoonfuls of sugar to the stifiy beaten
whites. Garnish with large whole ber-
ries.
Custard will never curdle II the scalded
milk Is poured from the double boiler over
the beaten yolks and sugar. stirred for
moment and then returned to the
boiler to cook until of the right consis-
tency. Add prepared extract of fruit
juices after the custard is cold for the
sake of both flavor and economy.
Pineapple. either fresh or canned, Is
now especially acceptable because Of its
agreeable acid. The simplest way of
preparing it Is to put it through the meat
grinder, then sweeten it and serve with
ice cream, blanc mango, gelatine or
tapioca.
delicious pudding Is made with a
shredded pineapple or a can of the fruit.
the same weight Of sugar, half as much
butter. five eggs and half a pint OF
cream. Cream butter and sugar, stir in
the beaten yolks. then the prepared pine
apple and the cream. Finally, fold in the
stifffy beaten whites. line q baking dish
with pun paste and pour in the mixture.
Bake in a rather slow oven until the
pastry Is thoroughly done.
An orange pudding is easily made by
bringing one cup of water to the boiling
point with the Juice of three oranges
and one lemon Thicken with three
tablespoonfuls Of cornstarch previously
moistened with cold water and cook
about ten minutes. Add the beaten
whites of three eggs and after the mix
ture stands q few minutes pour part
into bowl or mold wet with cold water
Arrange alternate layers Of pudding and
sliced oranges and set aside to cool Serve
with custard made of the yolks and
favored with grated orange peel
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
HOUSEHOLD TIPS.

Wrap cut bread In waxed paper IL you
would keep it fresh.
Try scramblins eggs with minced green
peppers for q change.
. Hany very dusty skirts out on the
clothes line in q high wind.
; Carrots and spinach are among the best
tonics in the spring.
Dry damp chimneys on the radiator and
on the back Of the stove.
The smoke from burning sugar is. one
Of the very best disinfectants.
Discarded inner auto tires can be Gu,
up into the best ofNrubber bands.
Keep a pair of ordinary pliers In the
kitchen for lifting intensely hot pans.
Keep an egg timer near the telephone
to gauge your long distance calls
It is good idea to buy a supply OF
extra bobbins for|the sewing machine.
Dip matches in. hot. melted parafYin Il
you wish to make them waterproof.
Cut the invalid,s toast into inch
squares: It can be eaten much more
easily.
Good nets for dresSes can frequently Be
bought In the upholstery stersa
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
R0MPERs-Two yards Of -
Isch-wide materiaI, at IS eentn

- &
ROMPERs-Two yards Of -
isch-wide material, at IS eentn
yard.
BIB-0ne-saartef Of . yard Of
quilted muslin, n inches wide. at
3s centn . yard.
EMPIRE DREsS-Tws yards
Of 4o-iseh nsterial, at 30 cents .
yard. Two yards Of enbroidefy,
. inches wide, At z5 cents . yard.
One-half yard Of edging, 2 inches
wide. at IS cents . yard. O.e
aad . half yards Of 4-inch-wiae
ribbon, at 70 eents . yard.
FRENCH DREss-Two yards
Of 4o-inch-wide material, at %
cents . yard. Seven yards Of val
insertio1, Inch wide. at 10 cents
q yard. Three yards of val edg.
Ing, inches wide. at IS cents .
yard.
PETTICOAT-One and one-half
yards Of nateriai, 80 inches wide,
At IS cents Q yard. Three yards Of
val Insertion, inch wide. at 10
cents Q yard. One and one-half
yards Of 1-inch embroidery, at 10
cents q yard. One and ene-half
yards Of 3-inch-wide embroidered
edgise, at 70 cents q yard.
NIGHTGOwN-Tw yards Of
S6-inch-wide material. at 70 cents
q yard. One yard Of I-ineh-wide
embroidery, at 10 cents q yard.
One-auarter Of q yard of lawn.
. inches wide, at 10 cents Q yard.
COAT-One and three-Quarter
yards Of 3s-inch-wide serge, NJ
70 eents . yard. Four yards Of
braid, II inch wide. at 8 cents q
yard. Six pearl buttons, at IS
cents q doHea.
CAP-One-half yard Of Swiss,
n inches wide, ut IS cents . yard.
One-half yard Of embroidery,
inch wide, at 10 cests . yard.
One and one-half yards Of lace.
III inches wide, at Is cents 4
yard. One and one-half yards Of
3-ineh-wide lace edging. at 70
cents . yard.
TOTAL, S7.s3.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21

ing school reception and the Sunday
school picnic-always accompanies by the
blue sash.
Ask any man. young and old, unless he
be one Of the sophisticated youths Of the
day. what In his opinion 10 the most be-
coming gown woman can wear. and the
chances are ten to one he will say, "One
Of those simple white muslins she wears
in summer" For in the average mascu-
line eye the summer white dress is aiways
Of muslin and always simple.
The Inexpenssve Myth,
And each and every one Of these gowns
Ii q different version of the lingerie frock.
II Is but . myth that gives adjectives
like "simple'' and inexpensive" to the
modern frock Of this type. II ID neither.
nor 10 IT easy of construction. II ever
the art of the modiste was put to q test
II is In the creation Of q lingerie gown
that shall have the proper distinction to
make II different from others that pass
under the same general classification
The lingerie gown probably viii cost
more than any Of the giittering and
sumptuous creations which are destined
for brilliant show In bathrooms Its
charm lies in its exquisite workmanship
and its daintiness Of elaboration 1t may
have the appearance Of simplicity. but It
Ia only appearance. 1t really Is q compii-
cation Of broideries and laces which re-
cyuire infinite skill and patience Of hand
labor to make and the same qualities
combined with artistic skin to assemble.
Only a few years ago the lingerie frock
was made of batiste or MULE. or even Of
fine lawn. set with yards of insertion.
dozens of medallions. and as much hand
embroidery as the purse would allow.
and set together entirely by hand There
was not great diversity Of style allowed.
The usual pattern followed had Q
bodice with hand-run
tucks and medallions and insertions and
a fairly full skirt with a wide hem and
rows of lace In curves and criss-cross-
ings alternating with embroidery.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
ton and buttonhole finishes the tab at
the back.
r- n.s- sS -.-,

Two Dainty short-dress Models.
Two lovely models for the new short
dresses are pictured. One has the high
Empire waist line. and the other the
long French waist line. The same
weaves Of cotton are used for making
these as were recommended for the
dresses Of the layette; the trimmings can
be either fine lace or Swiss embroidery
The Empire dress is made with two full
length box plaits, both back and front.
under which the soft ribbon sash is run.
Tiny tucks between. and on either side.
Of these box plaits give a pretty fullness
to the skirt Of the dress. The neck is
squared. both back and front, and fin
ished with a rnitered band of Swiss en-
broidery. The sleeves have a band of
the embroidery and a narrow frill of edg-
ing to match.
The French dress Is trimmed with
Val insertion and edging. 1t has a
shaped yoke, set in with lace, and the
shaped neck Is finished to match. Three
box plaits with tiny pin tucks between
ornament the waist. both back and front
The short skirt is composed Of alter
nate rows of lace and material finished
at the lower edge with a ruffle Of wide
lace. Small crochet buttons are used
for fastening both of these dresses
The straight yoke petticoat pictured
Is of nainsook with trimming Of alter
nate rows Of lace and embroidery. The
yoke can be made SO that 1t fastens
at the back, or on the shoulders. Small
fiat pearl buttons must be used to effect
the closing.
The tiny nightgown IL of cambric.
with groups of pin tucks at the front
A band Of Swiss embroidery and ruffles
Of Swiss are used to finish the sleeves
and the collar. AS was said in the be-
ginning of this article, the nightgown
Is not shortened, but is made good and
long SO that 1t can be wrapped around
the little feet
Coats fog Ssnmef.
It is well to make two little coats, one
OF lightweight serge, for wear at this
season of the year. and one Of pique
for warmer weather. The garment shown
is perfectly plain with set-in sleeves.
The collar and cuffs are finished with
three rows of braid, and six large pearl
buttons ornament the front
The cap is made by gathering round
piece Of dotted Swiss to a band Of
Swiss embroidery that fits the head. To
the lower edge Of this band is gathered
two very full frills Of lace. one deeper
than the other. and long loose bow Of
ribbon is used as trimming.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21

In addition to her position as president
OF the Woman's Auxiliary of the Sal
walton Army Rescue Home, Mrs. William
G. Brown, Of New York. Is one Of the
directors Of the City Federation Hotel.
one Of the first homes for working girls
built in New York City.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21

The marketing should be sorted and
put away a. soon as 1t comes into the
house. If 1t b allowed to wait until
what seems a convenient time to at
tend to 1t the meat and vegetables may
lose some Of their freshness
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21

When making muhins OF cakes IN
rings. IL there 10 not enough to NIL all
the pans. You may prevent the empty
ones from burning BY hlling them with
water
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21
To Remove Fingermark..

1t is easy to remove fngermarks from
woodwork by applying q clean cloth dip
ped in kerosene. Then wipe with cloth
wrung out Of hot water.
The Washington herald., 1914-05-21

Representatives.. large bunch Sc. /;
rice. Is h.. 1c.: walnuts. cup. &C.; milk.
OTIS, 14c-; eggs, Y dozen. 15c.: cheese.
Y H.. &C.: lettuce, u h., 1oc.; liver. h..
15c; potatoes. 4. g1c.: asparagus, Ia
bunch. 2l1c.: spinach, IA PIX, Sc: figs. u
h., &C.; craps juice and coffee, 15c-:
bread. butter and seasons, 15c Total 81 -1s.
Walnut Sausage-Mix half a cupful Of
boiled rice. half cupful of fine stale bread
crumbs and a cupful Of ground walnut
meats; add one tablespoonful of melted
butter or olive oil, one egg. salt, pepper
and sage to taste (scant teaspoonful Of
salt. one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper
and tablespoonful of powdered sage)
Shape into small cakes and cook lightly.
Good Housekeeping)
Genoa Ramekins-Use small individ-
ual molds or one large dish. Cut stale
bread in pieces an inch thick, trim free
from crust and At into the creased
molds- Prepare raw custard. using
three eggs, a half teaspoonful Of salt
and a dash of white pepper for each pint
Of milk. Basic this liquid over the bread
little at a time until 1t will soak up
no more. Over the top spread an inch
Of grated cheese which has been mixed
with one-fourth teaspoonful of dry mus
tar0- cover ana place IN = mOQerdte
oven for 20 minutes, then uncover until
the custard Is set in the center and the
cheese Ia melted and slightly colored.
Serve at once. CThe American Table)
Mock Terrapin-Cut pound of calfs
liver into dice and fry 1t brown in a lit
tie butter. Dust II with q teaspoonful Of
salt. a teaspoonful of mustard. one
eighth teaspoonful Of cayenne pepper
and two tablespoonfuls Of -FOUR Add two
hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, one table
spoonful of butter and a cupful Of water
Simmer together. add a teaspoonful of
lemon juice and serve on hot. buttered
toast.
Potatoes and Asparagus GRAINED
When asparagus is high in price or
scarce a small amount may be combined
with potatoes in the following manner
and made a very palatable dish. Peel
and cut into dice four medium-sized po-
tatoes. Wash carefully four or FIVE
stalks Of asparagus and cut into inch
lengths. Combine the potatoes and as
paragus and cook in boiling. slightly
salted. water until tender. Cover with a
cream sauce made from one cupful of
milk. one and a half tablespoonfuls Of
flour rubbed smooth with a tablespoon
ful Of melted butter and the whole boiled
together until thickened. Oue-half tea
spoonful Of salt should be added as 1t
boils.-