The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-07-05

HI grandmOrnerS mauly mdxlAlng \Af 1t seems Imaginable to talk of sedate WV years but there are some women
 who realize that the face and fig ure after 40 deserve more careful considera- ton than formerly. even if 'one's actions do not Especially if one is stout one must be- ware in the selection of clothes.
 The immediate inspiration of today's talk was woman I saw the other day She was nearly 70. as her shrveled neck and white hair showed she couldn't have been more than feet inches high, and weighed fully 200 pounds, and-she was dressed in three layered faring skirt of bright rose and white stripes-part of them horizontal ones at that "a short coatee of plain rose taffeta, and low cut separate blouse of a large design in shadow lace. Her hat was pancake model in dead white chip with dead white moire bow.
 I happened to know that the woman had allowed herself to be dressed by an expensive dressmaker who did not make a study of suitability. That Is a word that will solve the dress problem for every fat woman who has passed her first youth.
 The woman of sedate years who has also kept her slim silhouette has less to bother her in the dress problem. She need only study
 
 gard for not making herself ridiculous in purely girl hats. She can wear most of the present styles, provided they are not start lingly bizarre. But for the woman who has lost her waist line and gained in hip girth dressing becomingly, especially on a small income, is a real tragedy. l need not tell this latter class that fat is decidedly costly. She must wear good corsets and can rarely pick up the ready made clothes bargains that are such boon to her thin sister.
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 As it Is hard to find suitable ready made clothes for stout, middle aged woman, and even the cheap dressmaker who does not understand lines is not for her, it behooves this type of woman to become her own dress maker; at least to the extent of knowing how her clothes should be cut and trimmed.
 Three things will insist upon at the out set--length of line-unbroken if possible subdued colorings in soft materials, and the best corsets one can buy.
 Tc start with foundation, tho best in cor sets need not mean the most costly; it does mean those that fit you well at all points and give you the most slender appearance with the least discomfort. It is fatal for stout woman to buy corset without trying it on, May a so-called fat woman corset will mako your figure needlessly square and matronly or will push up your bust when you are seated.
 Next in importance to the corset are the underclothes. They must not be bunchy. That seems almost unnecessary to tell any woman these days save that know half a dozen fgureless women who still persist in wearing gathered corset covers. chemises. flannel petticoats, ruffied drawers. and gath cred petticoats.
 Always make the underwear of soft fin- ished nainsook or fine cambric. as the heav- fer long clothes and cambrics add to ones bulk.
 your summer wardrobe the most suitable material for the stout Is challi. fine twilled serge of one of the new weaves of cashmere. Always remember you will look better in soft. clinging materials. as crepe de chine Indeed, all of the crepes, twilled or corded silks. rather than taffeta that stands out, ol messalines and satins that have too high a sheen. A satin will look far better yelled with chiffon or net than plain.
 As the heavy woman wrinkles her clothes ' easily she should select nonwrinkable ma ' terials. Thus she should avoid linens even for her separate skirt; fine twilled. soft piQue. or one of the ratines that is not too rough will give her far more satisfaction, For one piece frocks for day wear the cotton voiles, some of the finer cotton crepes. and