New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-05-21
fashions are passing through
r a transition period. New ideas

II q H~f'
are being tried out; revivals
are in the air; styles tried and true
are being combined with tentative
novelties to effect a compromise be-
tween the old and the new. All this
should surely lead to interesting
fashions when Paris next shows her
marvellous collections and New YORK
draws from these the most striking
and smart-looking for the edihcation
Of those who do not go to the French
capital twice a year and personally
make selections from the models FIRST
shown in the Rue de la PAX, the
Place Vendome and the Champs
Elysees.
The interested onlooker tries 10
calculate in advance which way the
straws of fashion will be blown by
the veering winds of popular or fas-
tidious tastes; Cor whatever credit IS
due the great designers for Launching
the new fashions, it is manifestly true
that success is almost wholly depend
ent on the appeal that a given style
makes IN women. not in a few in
stances. or to women of any particu-
lar nationality, but to the great mass
of women as a body interested and
swayed by the momentous and ever
fascinating matter of clothes.
Apron Tunio Late Innovation.
Signs are not lacking to prove that
certain of the fashions which were
popular during the early spring sea-
sons are being superseded by those
Of later introduction. Take, tor In
stance, the long tunic first exploited
by Cheruit, about the middle OF last
February. 1t was instantly taken up
by the French, and its success IN
Paris was duplicated in New YORK
after the early spring models with the
short tunics had made an appearance
and been widely successful. Inc
coming of the Cheruit apron, or the
Russian tunic, served as an anti
climax to the seasons fashions. 1t
has been seized upon-by the whole
sale manufacturer and the more ex-
elusive dressmaker alike---as the key
note of summer fashions.
1t represents the new idea that IS
being tried out. One wonders II 1t
will survive the summer of it's pop
ularity and reappear in the tall
modes. or whether it is merely paving
the way for the triumphant return OF
the wide skirt.
AT any rate. the long tunic has beer
welcomed by many women who hnd
II a great aid in the remodelling OF
last years gowns, and suits as well
A width of satin may be shaped on
scmi-circular lines, or merely gath-
cred about the waist and attached to
the girdle, and the old-fashioned gar
ment seems to be quite up-to-date.
AS a matter Of fact, however, the
newest tunics require skill and ex-
perience in order to achieve the cor
rect lines.
Circular FIounce Introduced.
Among the incipient Tevivals one
notes the circular fiounce on suits
and gowns. The idea is Paquin's. 1t
is one that that creator has cherished
for many seasons, but not until the
spring of the present year was the
opportunity afforded for its trial.
Women as a whole, however, have
not taken up the circular founce eft
fects with any marked degree OF
enthusiasm. The modes for several
seasons have been designed to make
women appear in contour not unlike
the Greek amphora; and the adoption
of the circular founce Immediately
distorts, if not wholly destroys, that
classic conception.