The Washington herald., 1914-03-08
Fashions at the Capital
The Well DRESSED Woman OF Smart Society What She Wears;
The Time and Place
- WADE {.

With winter lingering in the hap oi
spring there is naturally greater dis
play of velvet and furs than one expects
10 see in Washington during Lent There
is also a greater display of evening
gowns and of jewels than is quite COM
patible with a season supposed to be
period of rest, either for spiritual oi
physical Yell-being, but that is not or
arrg ~ of the weather.
The woman who packed away her low
a. owns on Ash Wednesday mistook
tra 81 irit of the times in quite as con-
splcuCIs a degree as she who packed
away her furs was mistaken in the pos
Sih.ary of the Weather Bureau.
The small dance of Mr.. Medzikhovsky,
z Of the Russian Embassy, on Wednesday
evening, and several other smaller dances
with quite the usual number Of dinners
brought out new evening gowns in spite
of the declining season. This class OF
dress, unlike street and afternoon wear,
has no particular season for its own,
since beads have become the embeliish-
ment for velvet. and fur the favorite
trimming for tulle-
Thus far the /: Ipposed-to-be spring sea-
son has shown little change in the gen.
eraI appearance of gowns or millinery,
although one hears of l. widening Of the
skirt as well as the girdle, with a Ssd-
oral tendency to a more conservative line
in all costumes. Here is where Wash
inrton shows its supremacy as re-
former. Few maids and matrons of the
Capital have ever accepted extreme fan
eies inspired by Leon Bakst, and ex-
plotted by Paul Poiret, yet the sugges-
stSn of these new prophets, modified to
tEr taste and style of the women OF
W ashington are shown in every up-to-
date shop window to later appear at the
dansantes and spring weddings. not to
mention the ordinary occasion for smart
attire in which Washington life abounds.
That famous saying of Sheridan in She
Stoops to Conquer" that women ana
music should never be dated" might II
seems, be applied with equal truth to
some few rich and rare gowns, now that
feminine attire has become daily text
for the press. the pulpit and forum. There
are some gowns which hold their own at
all seasons by reason OF the true prln-
cipals of art and common sense govern
ing their construction. totally regardless
of current fads and fashions
To this very United class belongs the
superb magpie costume worn by Mrs.
William F. Draper, one Of washington s
foremost resident hostesses, and widow
Of the former Ambassador to Italy. This
particular creation is of satin, In inch
wide stripes of white and black. made in
the individual lines adopted uniformly Dy
this particular matron.
The trained skirt opens in front from
waist to hem, revealing a narrow pointed
panel of white satin and point lace. The
top shows a rounded decollatage with
reveres of black velvet forming deep
~" from shoulders to waistline, both
b: :: and front. In front the narrow ends
Of these reveres are held by large
orr lment OF highly cut crystals and sec
ondary Jewels that cross the base OF the
bodice like an impiecement OF former
years. Above this gorgeous embellish-
ment is a fiat banding of point lace, which
also forms oblong motifs on the half
length sleeve of the striped satin.
Except for the clasp Of brilliants. and
the lace the latter applied as a part Of
ne rSHh . oper, rather than as an em-
there is no hint of trimming
anywhere phile the severely cut lines
iGs as ar -emoved from all suggestion
~ fs-rs' peplum, sash, pleat or girdle, |
la gsasszH ne gown had been made for
century palace, instead of a |
twentieth century drawing-roon in the
most democratic capital Of the world. |
Worn with a double string OF pearls and
diamond tiara its wearer is conceded |
irst place among the well-gowned women
If smart society in any part Of the
world.
Mrs Thomas Gedney Patten, wife of |
Patten, of New York, who |
5 a recent addition to the Congressional
irclc. and at the same time an acknowl- |
dyed acquisition to the smart resident |
et. is a handsome young matron. famous
or her good clothes as well as her good |
Mrs. Patten wore a white satin dinner |
.own A few nights ago, which shows |
he magpie motif in color. but in unusual