Evening star., 1914-10-10

/ searching fnstStency ABOUT IL "hiSn
compels the admiration of even the
most reserved. Such a cheese can out
| smell any brand of fragrance yet IN
vented with a nonchalance and ease OF
bearing that are wonderful. NO one ever
lived In the same house with a Harz
| cheese unawares. One might possibly
harbor a king unbeknownst, but never
| such an unpeered thing as ripe Harz
cheese. The latter is itself wherever 1t
| goes and II never travels incognito.
! + 4
| With the proper effort and study, the
experts OF the government believe that
A m lean
Federal Experts Can manufac-
Make Foreign Cheeses. turn out
practically all the types Of foreign cheese
which find a market here. They have
| called attention to the fact that many
| OF the celebrated varieties already are
produced in this country with a trueness
| to form that only an expert could pene-
| trate. Among the oft-imitated cheeses Is
Camembert.
| Camembert is a cheese whose acquaint-
once once made is revered ever. 1t is a
soft, impressed cheese with tart gami-
ness Of flavor when consumed at the
most fitting age. 1t can be prepared in
the United States with all the excel
lencies Of the foreign article. and,
moreover. can be put upon the market
and sold before reaching state OF
such utter ripeness as to change its
| mellow tang into harshness. Camem-
bert has been prepared from native
nilks with more or less success for
a number Of years. However. there
has been much prejudice to overcome
against it in favor of the imported ar
ticle.
inators of this cheese style, the Ger
man n-imitated camembert compares
| with the genuine article as the nectar
of the Olympians compares with plain
creaminess about the German camem-
bert which is lacking In the French
product. There is. further, less of the
unpleasant, pungent sharpness. 1t
brown-yellow crust Of the German
cheese a pale-yellow heart of exqui-
site. tender cream can be extracted. On
! the other hand, the French camembert,
in well ripened state, often runs in
a thin greenish liquid.
Cheese of the Swiss variety is made
Just as well in this country as upon
the Alps. or in other parts of Europe.
driven it's foreign rival out of the mar
ket long ago, being superior in quail
ity and less in price. According to
government experts, the home consum-
difference and still enjoy their lin
burger as a foreign cheese. OF course.
the soft cheeses. like cream cheese.
have had to come from the home pro-
eaten quite fresh Hence, in these va
rieties, American manufacturers have
not had to combat such names as Ger
vais. Neufchatel and Bondon. In the
other cases their struggles are said to
have been chiefly caused by the cur
rency Of q name.
It seems reasonable to suppose that
Americans can produce much richer,
American Milk Better flying cheese
for Satisfying Cheese. D O q n n,e 'es of
Europe, for the American milk is far
better article than that with which Eu-
ropeans content themselves. The Ger
man milk is thin and substanceless. 1t
Is weak, shilly-shally, non-committal,
apologetical, apathetfc and bodiless If
a German cow ever gave the rich, yell
w-clotted milk which Is produced by
the American COW she would be iso-
lated from her playmates and put un-
der strict medical surveillance. or.
more probably, she would be treated
for hydrophobia on the spot AS far
as the German milk goes. there are no
extenuating circumstances.
Averaging up with an open mind.
the American visitor Is forced to admit
that the French milk is little better.
It is not satisfying in coffee. nor can
when served by the glass. Compared
with the ll-bodied. buff-tinted liquids
which pass current in this land under
the name of milk, the European article
is a distinct failure. 1t is unjust to
compare them.
With such excellent raw material. 1t
would seem more fitting for the
s rather than " does t the "eesvs reverse Sc % proees
dure. Cheese made Of cows milk ought
to be produced in this country for sup
plying the native and the European
to import cheese made from the milk
of goats, ewes, mares, milch asses.
camels and reindeer. The peoples Of
Europe draw their milk supplies from
! camel, and make a special cheese from
each source. For example, Roquefort
cheese is made from the milk of ewes
which are kept chiefly as dairy ami
Again. the cheese made from Alien
burg's goats milk is generally famous
Where the European cheese excels its
American relation. the reason is to be
tion with which the native of Europe
approaches the business of cheese
making. There this business is num-
bered among the fine arts, while the
consumer is thought to show the ma
ture of his temperament and the direc-
tion of his genius by his choice of
cheeses and his manner of eating them
Among the staple foods of Europe
bread comes first and then comes
cheese, and. upon the list Of luxuries,
| things as caviar and champagne.
America has the greatest consumption
of butter per capita and the lowest
consumption of cheese. This cultural
| defect might be decidedly improved by
an expansion of the native industry
There are only about 100000 600
| pounds of cheese produced each year
| In this
New York and Wisconsin country. A