The Washington herald., 1914-04-05
II
FADS AND
FANCIES OF
FASHION


must be short and jaunty. but further
details vary so generously that all
sorts of individual effects can be
developed.
The one really severe criticism that
dressnakers have to make of Amer
lean women is their shyness At wearing
any costume the features of which are
d:stinctively their own. As nation.
we like to see what Others are wearing
before We decide upon our own gowns
and it is perhaps just that very ten
dency that causes us to follow so
slsvishly after the edict Of the Partisan
dressmakers- This season. the bright
colors offer so many opportunities for
individual touches that it is more than
ever a pity we should cultivate the
weakness in place Of dominating it.
Real distinction must always mean
individuality. Let us hope that this
year Of innovations and of many effects
will induce US to study fashions from
that point Of view.
Roman stripes are real craze. They
are utilized in so many ways as almost
to defy description. The most beau
tiful girdles are worn upon gowns of
quiet colors and even the most con-
servative morning gown of blue serge
shows some novel touch. Purple worn
with a blue suit comes to US with the
approval Of that Paris which is ever
interesting and, for between seasons,
the blue serge costume with hat or
girdle or collar and cuffs of real deep
violet will be the smartest of all things
for general wear. We are learning
some lessons in the matter of color
combinations and the most wonderful
effects are obtained by using certain
shades Of cerise with brown, this purple
with blue and by combining con-
trasts that not so long ago would have
been thought outre and strange.
Useful costumes will be made Of
checked materials, too, and checks are
showing really fascinating combina-
tions Of color so that for the earIy
spring. there is an interesting outlook
for the plain prosaic costume of every
day use, to say nothing of the more
elaborate ones designed for afternoon
hours and for the dance that goes
merrily on throughout the entire
twenty-four.
Prevailing colors include much red
in soft tones that are not aggressive
all the various shades of yellow, citron.
banana, tango and new tones of musb-
room, fawn and beige, all showing a
little yellow mixed with it. Dark
greens are predicted. The real tango
and other similar shades of red will be
largely used as trimming and there is
a quite new white which is known by
the unsavory term of blanc sail or
dirty white" but which is really a
tone not unlike oyster. soft and gen.
orally becoming.
Skirts are narrow at the feet but
often there is greater quantity than
has been the case throughout the
winter, for, when taffeta or other silk
is used, it is not uncommon to see the
skirt drawn in about the ankles and
finished with such trimmings as ruches
or frills. Apparently there is an effort
on the part Of the designers to satisfy
the manufacturers by the introduction
OF a greater quantity of fabrics and,
at the same time, to keep the narrow
skirts. Happily, the breadth over the
hips provides for a certain freedom
and 1t is easier to walk and to dance
than with the straight skirt. The
walking might have been dispensed
WITH for women generally have
learned the mincing japanese step.
but dancing is the feature of the
season and costumes must allow OF
dancing in whatever they fail. Since
We may dance in street costumes as
well as any others if occasion requires,
tht fact may be responsible for the
introduction RI the little gay effects
in the way Of such bits of brightness
as referred 10 above.
A tailored costume that makes a
good example of the way in which
Roman stripes are used comes from
the house Of Prenet, and Premet has
gained great deal of prominence this
season. The material is gabardine in
the wonderful shade Of blue known as
midnight" and the short, jaunty
little jacket is held by ob!ong green
buttons and the collar and insets on
the sleeves are Of green tafteta. The
tunic is a curious one but its trim
ming portion and the under skirt are
Of Roman striped cloth, for the stripes
are tc be found in wool as well as in
silk and, as this costume indicates.
they are used tor entire skirts as well
as for the mere trimming portions.
Besides the Roman stripes, there are
wonderful striped silks that combine
such colors as orange and cerise with
brown, which are used most fasci-
natingly in. combination with plain
tafeta. A beautiful gown that bears
the distinguished name Of Worth is
of taffeta in the shade known as
.obao1a ,,yb;1h - adri;+ioo 70 ax