The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-01-25

IL Is a robe with a long pointed
train. This is the style Of dress
that Parisiennes will wear at Monte
Carlo and Nice and later in Paris when
the spring and summer seasons open.
These long pointed trains are very
narrow. They are almost always made
Of supple materials. such as chiffon
crepe de chine. &c, and beautifully EN-
broldered. In the model sketched the
material OF the skirt was shell pink chif-
fon and the dainty embroideries were
carried out In iridcscent beads, to give a
seashell impression. There was a Per-
sian tunic slightly stifYened at the hem
and bordered with ermine. and the cor
sage was covered with a trellis work Of
iridescent beads.
The curious point connected with this
robe Is the Invisible ring concealed near
the point OF the train. II Is used to hold
the train up for dancing and the whole
effect is delightfully."- picturesque. for the
soft folds Of chiffon or crepe swing out
with each movement.
long. The pendulum seems to have
swung back with determination, for
round dancing frocks are rapidly going
out Of favor and trains are becoming
more and more popular. OF course short
frocas will still he worn by young girls,
but even on these ] have already seen
little pointed trains, arranged In the
manner indicated in the sketch.
The ultra-smart Parisiennes are just
now going in for very curious facial
makeup. They are casting aside rouge
almost entirely and are using various
shades OF white. gray and cream face
about by the continued popularity OF
powdered hair.
Powder and patches demand a special
style OF makeup--of that there can be
no doubt Florid compilations which are
charming when framed In dark or gold
brown tresses seem quite impossible
when framed In powdered hair. The
whole scheme Of color has to be altered
and II Is because women have been slow
to realize this truth that so many people
are crying out against powdered hair
and saying that II ~ theatrical and I'M
duly remarkable.
II may be accepted as fact that
powdered hair demands in nine cases
out OF ten delicate complexion and
. robe made of fragile material In some
neutral tint. one single touch Of deep
color can DO added In the shape Of a
rose at the waistband or even in the
hair, but in order to obtain the best
effects the general scheme Of color must
be in half tones.
But to return to- the pale makeup
A very famous Partisan actress recently
laid down rules on this subject She
said that at the sides Of the head when
powdered hair was worn the face powder
should be pale silver gray. that the
powder on other parts OF the face should
he Of warm cream, and then that
the throat and neck should be covered
with oyster white powder. Then a very
faint tinge Of color should be introduced
under the eyes and the eyes themselves
should be lightly touched all around with
a soft brown powder, the .ashes alone
being black.
have seen these instructions faith
fully carried out in the case OF the
actress In question and can testify that
they are wonderfully effective. The
whole effect is that Of pastel painting
executed by master hand.
In London they are still using the
strange face powders which were for
very short time the rage in Paris;
mauve. ochre and lemon yellow. These
horrors are no longer used in Paris and
this Is certainly a good thing, as a few
months ago IL was no unusual thing to
meet a well dressed Parisenne whose
complexion closely resembled that OF
an Indian chief.
The latest style Of hair dressing is
charm!ngly picturesque. The hair IL
lightly drawn back from the forehead
and at the sides fascinating little curls
kiss the cheeks. Then at the back the
hair is drawn up over cone shaped
frame which Is surrounded by coils, a
few ornamental pins keeping the whole
structure In place. This method OF
hair dressing Is only suitable for night
wear. The cone shaped frame would OF
course make 1t impossible to put on a
hat gracefully. for though they are very
Light they are made OF fine wire and are
uncrushabe.
The Parisiennes are pushing this idea
II dressing the hair high at the back
very far. In some cases the cone frame
Is exaggeratedly high and so narrow at
the point that II looks something like
a Plerrot cap. This style OF hair dress
Ing makes a woman look very tall and
stately and the little kiss curis or
"accroche c9urs" keep the headdress
from looking too severe.
II may be said to be season OF bare
arms and bare foreheads. None OF the
now models OF evening dresses shows
any sleeves whatever. The arms are
left bare right up to the shoulder In the
ancient Greek style, and when shoulder
straps are worn they are almost always
made Of real diamonds or fine old paste.
On the other hand the new velvet cor
sa9es have folds which meet right on
the top Of the shoulder. where they are