Evening journal., 1914-01-30
PROBLEMS IN DRESSMAKING
HOW TO MAKE A BELTED COAT.

BELIED COAT.
To make the patch pockets. turn
the seam allowance on both pockets
and laps under and baste. For the
lower pockets, stitch three-quarters
Of an inch within the edges; for the
upper pockets. one-half inch. Arrange
the laps under the pockets with the
right side Of the lap meeting the
wrong side Of the pocket and the
notches exactly together. Baste.
stitch and press the seams. Then
turn the laps over upon the pockets.
Arrange the smaller pockets over the
upper portions OF the coat and the
larger pockets over the lower, with
the upper edges at the lines Of per-
forations. Turn the laps up and
baste the pockets into place and
stitch the large pockets through the
coat three-quarters Of an inch within
the edges and the smaller pockets
one-half inch.
Baste the shoulder and under-arm
seams. Then try the coat on the
wearer and, if any little changes are
required. make them at this point:
but, as the coat is a loose one. no
fitting Of moment can be needed.
On one figure, it may be advisable to
take the shoulders up a trihe; on
another. to take the under-arm seams:
but, further than that. the coat can
stand as it is. After fitting, baste
the seams carefully. stitch and press;
then open them and bind each edge
separately with narrow bias strip:
Of the same satin that you have used
as undertaking and bind the edges Of
the darts also. Cut a lining for the
collar OF the material and exactly
like the outside. Lay the two pieces
together, the right sides meeting. and
stitch all around the outer edges and
the ends. Turn on the seam and
baste carefully and stitch one-half inch
within the edges. Then press again.
for in the making Of cloth garment,
the iron is in constant use. Arrange
the collar over the coat, the outside
Of the cellar against the wrong side Of
the coat. the center backs and notches
exactly meeting. Baste the two to-
gether and stitch: then turn the seam
up on the coat and hem the edge
Of the lining over the seam. turning
the seam allowance under in the usual
manner. Turn the collar over upon
the coat.
As the next step. close the seams Of
the sleeves. press open and bind the
edges as directed for the coat. The
notched edge Of the cuff is the one to
be joined to the sleeve. Turn under
the seam allowance on the outer edges
and the curved ends under; baste into
place and stitch three-quarters OF an
inch within the edge. Lap the curved
ends over the straight until they meet
the line Of perforations and baste
them into position. Slip the cuffs
inside the sleeves with the right sides
Of the cuffs and the wrong sides Of the
sleeves together and the large perfora-
tions at the inside seams and the
notches meeting. Baste and stitch.
Then roll the cuff over onto the right
side of the sleeve and you will have
a perfectly neat finish with the seam
entirely concealed. Basic the sleeves
to the armholes. the front seam Of
each meeting the notch in the front
Of the coat and the large perforation
at the shoulder seam and. while
basting. hold the sleeves easy over the
shoulders. Bind the two edges Of
these seams together, turn up under
the coat and press as fat as possible.
Make two straps each one inch in
width and Just long enough to arrange
between the single perforations that
you viii find in the back Of the coat.
Finish and stitch the edges, then
arrange them over the coat with the
ends at the penorations and attach
the ends to position. Line the belt
with a strip OF the satin like that usec
for the undertaking. Stitch three