New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-12-25


.ermined upon b. the American fash
ton world. In fact, Paris rather fol-
lows our fabrics than leads. We must
prepare months in advance for each
season, and the goods must be in his
country in time for the early showing
IN the tailoring and retail trades. That
makes il necessary that merchandise,
not samples, be on hand at the begin
ming Of each season.
american productions are fast reach
ing high grades Of perfection in taste,
especially In silks. Woods are follow
ing closely. and some really beautiful
fabrics that have all the European I'm
ish, and better than that. America
practical style, are ready for the
spring. In lightweight suitings, how
ever, Europe must still lead.
"The American manufacturer Of yard
woOllens does not like small quantities,
and. therefore, does not like 10 make
a few pieces, so he only makes what Is
known as 'heavyweiRhts' as rule.
There are, however, two or three Amer
lean producers who make rarely beauti-
full lightweight goods.
Europe is sending US goods; WOOL
lens from England and Germany, too.
Belgium, Of course, is off the map, and
Belgium. strange as it may seem. pro-
duces the most beautiful woollen
goods.
"The new idea for spring is fancy
coverts. not plain coverts alone, but
narrow hair-striped, small checked et-
fccts. There Is new thing IN wom-
ems suits, and that is the sport suit.
This is a nobby, young mannish, I'M
lined tailored suit. II Is made Of
checks, stripes, rough effects or soft
mixtures, and is always unlined. New
goods are being made for sport suits
which are reversible. Beautiful covert
hair-lined effects (as self-lined) have
a reversible green, blue, tan, yellow
or golden brown contrasting plain sur
face. Yet these goods are compare
lively light in weight, and would be
suited for all summer wear.
with. the coverts are shown serges,
pabardines. poplins. Satin Theodore and
voiles. These are the plain, solid,
Hght-colored fabrics, and are always
tans. light grays and gum shades. and
are called battleship gray, sand putty
and dirt colors, meaning, of course, the
same thing. Along with this comes the
new season of black and white hair
lined stripes and clustered stripes.
This appears on goods of every weight,
from lightweight serges TO rough chew
lots. and viii make "a staple dark SUIT
and fully tailored style for women OF
good sense.
"Braids are going 20 be the strong
trimming idea for spring and summer:
The military idea, the newer form or
skirts and coats with belted effect, Will
mean. especially i'm the silk and silk
tafFeta suits as we'll as the lightweight
fabrics. many good fiat braids, some
with fancy edges, either gold or black,
as a relief 10 the otherwise plain fab
RIGS Of the season.
Jackets Regarding style tendencies
for the spring, u seems that Wnlie
manufacturers have made their hrst
SAMPLES with quite q number OF so
called pony jackets about p inches
and short boleros about Is lnchesl
mostly showing extreme short-walsted
effects in cuts or trimming, the prog
ress of the season will show strongly
the influence of the Nictorian-Eugenie
style tendencies. We may expect to
see the waistline gradually lowered TO
the normal effect, or only slightly high-
or I'M the back, while cuts and bottom
outlines OF the Jackets doubtless Will
strongly feature the dip effect, when
has taken already a strong hold on the
fancy Of the fashionably dressed WON
an. The becoming iaring effects VII.
be adhered 20 for some time. and TINS
will necessitate. maybe, q slight length
ening of the Jackets in the future.
sleeves The set-in sleeves will be
the prevailing type for the majority OF
Jackets and coats.
"Skirts-The skirts for the coming
season will show modified forms OF
tho Victorian silhouette that means
that wide. haring skirts, either cut 0ir-
cular or gored. i'm short ankle length,
will be the correct form. Skirts cut
with pointed bottom outline, either
front and back or sides, in harmony win
the dip effect, are considered the eN-
IRENE to-day but may develop into the
craze of tomorrow.
Goats The new 'Tipperary' coats,
made of this new white chinchlila WIN
faring dip sides. will have a great run
for the early spring season. wnlle
utility coats made Of different lleht-
weight fabrics in about i2-inch length
cut i'm faring form, will come IN Tor
their usual quota Of business.
..Dresses While being shown at
present with short-waisted effects
dresses have already commenced 10 be
strongly Influenced by the incoming
Victorian tendencies. and 10 should not
create great surprise 20 sec four TO
five wards wide skirts worn IN extreme
novelties. made Of silk, tafteta, voile,
etc.
"Hats Very tiny hats Of the Scotch
sailor ana military types are seen az
most TO the exclusion OF al otner
kinds al present. The new victorian
bonnets are in process OF evolution
and have already made their appear
ance in extreme fashion circles.
"Veils-The vogue Of the new velIs'
which are generally from one and
quarter TO two yards long, usually
edged with chenille, marabout or SILK
braid. also deserves mentioning.
shoes There never seemed 70 ne
such a general showing Of novel ideas
heretofore. l. seems as # shoes are
also following the general trend, ana
will be soon subject TO quick change ~
stvle. lust like other women's apparei.
The latest models are laced at the IN
sida. instead Of in front, and comblna-
tions Of black patent feathers ana ilght
colored suede are considered ultra
smart. while a great many models are
shown with black and white trim
mings.'