davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-08-23

will protect our home creators. The
operetta Les Merveilleuses influenced the
modes to the extent that it brought in
the directoire gown. The war has closed
the theaters and opera houses, for one
thing, and the business of creating ar
tistic costumes languishes far beyond the
power of even a Frenchman to express.
When a French dressmaker can't talk.
things are in bad way.
There is Gaby Deslys for instance,
about whose clothes whole columns have
been written. Dramatic critics have
waxed eloquent concerning this phase OF
her acting. One metropolitan critic has
even been accused of ignoring her talent,
so concerned was he over the mass of
fabrics with which she covered herself,
She wore. this critic asserted, thing
of spaghettian frtnges, an ecstasy or
colored macaroni-in which she danced
1t didn't sound reasonable and yet the
day the criticism appeared hundreds or
dressmakers In the United States were
busy attempting to search for just that
Deslysian touch which transforms the
gown into a costume for women who
choose their gowns to match their souls.
There are said to be gowns that weep;
gowns that are full OF mystery and
gowns for the fifth act.
Gabys gowns were more than that.
She showed tiger skin parlor rug.
the critic said, which she wore as d
mantle. Next she sported lace cloak
trimmed with sables. How the sables
stuck to the lace the critic confessed
he did not know. and how Gaby stuck
in the sables was also mystery. But
she did. She wore a hat sky-reaching
with purplest feather busters. standing
up as though they meant to dust the
stars.
If Gaby can get over here again while
the war Is on she will be great in
spiration to our dressmakers, of course.
Actresses will probably bring their
clothes with them. too-if they succeed
in getting here.
It Is doubtful If they would help the
situation. What our people need is to be
thrown on their own resources if they
would produce American fashions for
Americans. Their chief concern should
be with line. To this they should conse-
crate their spirits If the unusually long
epidemic of emaciation is to be checked.
A fat world is a merry world. VIII
Pittsburgh and Kansas City please make
us as merry as they can? Women have
been seeking to change their physical
appearance by COMPRISING 1t. Let them
do it now by adding to it for change.
That's the cue-change.
Constant mutations in fashions-in-
cessant search for something newt
our dressmakers will go in and over
emphasize everything that is the op-
posite Of what France has been fling
Ing our way they will succeed from the
first new wrinkle they produce.
What most recommends all the styles
is their charming absurdity. Let our
waistmakers, collarmakers, 81 leeve-
makers. cutters. filters and finishers
toss off as many eccentricittes and dis
tortions as Paris in her maddest, glad
dest hour ever dashed off across the
water and they will end by having
Paris, after the war is over. sending
her emissaries here to wiring the secrets
Of the new styles from us.
IT can be done and now is the time to
put stop to the old, we'll founded criu-
cism that American women are content
Evening star., 1914-08-23

sand restless evil spirits. who. while
their master happened to be abroad on
some particular business, INDUCED in a
special frolic on their own account. He
suddenly returned, and this put them into
a panic. SO they fled into the cellar of
wealthy baron. where they found mvr-
lads of bottles of wine, which they hastily
entered for concealment. In a rage he
followed them and corked them in the
bottles And this is why the wine when
opened INDUCES In such fiendish effer-
vescence.
Evening star., 1914-08-23

walls rising eighty feet or more above
the floor, are ghostly looking in the
gloom. especially when the walls are
clothed in gray. mossy lichen, giving
them that smoky atmosphere associated
with the supernatural They are the an
churches and other buildings Of this an
cient city.
The making of champagne is interest
ing. A curious German legend says that
it was invented by one hundred thou
Evening star., 1914-08-23
BEARING BURDENS ROSES MAKING PERFUMERY


more Of variety in style. but the full
gathered crowns with frills about the
face are the most distinctive among
them. The maid from Poitou, with her
pointed crowned headdress and her white
guimpe and black velvet corsage. or deep
laced girdle, looks like picture; while
the one from Brittany. with her stiff
white cap with turned back pieces like
wings at the side, is less fancy looking,
but equally picturesque.
X =
To the German soldiers who expect to
march through this country beer and the
sour wines Of the Rhine may appeal
more for a taste for sausage and sauer-
kraut does not give champagne appe-
tite. But what bacchanalian feast is
in store for them if they get to Paris
by the way Of Rheims!
To the artist Rheims means the great
Cathedral of Notre Dame, with the beau
tiful statue of Joan of Arc in the square
in front, and the rich medieval architec-
ture; but to commercial France it means
the center of the champagne trade and
the largest producer of woolens, merinos
and cotton goods. These celebrated fan
nels, cashmeres and merinos manufac-
tured here are controlled by the English.
but furnish work to thousands of French
artisans and laborers of all sorts.
In 1901-the year of the great vintage
the whole area planted in vines was
4,338,345 acres. which yielded 1904 mil
lions Of gallons, valued at $190,000.000.
OF this forty-five millions of gallons were
exported. The chief exports to America
are Moet & Chandon and Mumm though
there is fair trade in Pommery sec.
The champagne cellars for which
Rheims Is noted are enormous subter-
ranean caves. hewn out of the chalk
which underlies the district, and are
made like a city with streets and pas
sages. being kept at a low temperature
necessary for the ripening Of the cham
pagne.
x
These vast cellars, in some cases with
Evening star., 1914-08-23

carry the big panniers Of roses or flowers
on either side being conscripted and sent
to carry army supplies over the noun
tains instead of their load of sweets.
However, 1t will be only the most Sc
we're fortunes of war that will take them,
for the perfume industry means some
thing like 70.0OO,000 francs a year to
France, and these little animals are a
go in and out of the paths between the
rows of flowers.
Grasse is, next to Paris, the chief man
ufactory of perfumes in all France. In
the wales and on the favoring hill slopes
of this region there are estimated to be
some sixty Thousand acres of surface de-
voted to the cultivation of flowers for
this industry. and there are grown an
nually over two millions of pounds of
roses and four millions of pounds of
orange flowers. It is said that one
French litre Of essence expressed from
these flowers requires 2o,Oo0 pounds
weight of roses and is sold for 500 to
$3.50.
Perfumes, soap and champagnes are
eountTy ou % The eS1 most 'e direct route e. from ee
Liege. Belgium. to Paris is through the
rich champagne district Of France, which
by an airline Is about 100 miles. This
country, especially within a radius of
twenty-eight miles from Paris, was
fought over during the invasion by the
Germans in 1870 and during the siege Of
Paris. 1t Is watered by the river Marne.
and the vineclad hills of Champagne are
things Of beauty.
At the gathering Of the vintage the
French peasant is seen here at his best.
The vast vineyards are like human bee
hives. These peasants from the different
departments of France-particularly the
women-are so individual in costume that
one familiar with their garb can tell at
once by their caps or headdresses where
they come from.
Those from Normandy have, perhaps,
Evening star., 1914-08-23
Yea, Verify.

A PROPOS Of taxes easy to collect and
"a taxes hard to collect. Senator Cabot
Lodge said at a tea in Cambridge:
Lots of men possess untold wealth to-
day, thanks to the income tax"
Evening star., 1914-08-23

pany Of these peasant women around
Nancy would present with their queer
looking headdresses Of wide plated
ribbons. an enlarged Alastian bow ef-
feet. with streamers floating to the
breezes. beautifully embroidered stom-
achers and elaborate silk aprons.
If one has chanced to be in Nancy
on an Alsatian fete day he has seen
these peasants tout en- dimanche-or in
their glad rags and it is a most
pleasing sight The women in their
gay ribbons and aprons, and the men In
their short jackets much betrimmed
with buttons, the streets decorated as
only the French know how, and the tri-
color of France everywhere in evil
dence.
Nancy, the ancient capital and seat Of
the Dukes of Lorraine, sometimes called
the city of the seven handsome gates. is
now one of the eastern frontier outposts
of France, which was taken by the Ger
mans without resistance in 1870. 1t is
about ITO miles east of Paris and stu
ated in one of the rich vinegrowing dis
tricts Of that country. The surround
ing hills are covered with vineyards on
all the slopes. and to the southwest is
the little village of Domremy Ia Pucelle,
which was the birthplace of Joan of Arc.
Therefore it would not be strange II the
peasant women here should forward
march, with the illustrious example Of
Joan ever before them and the firm con-
viction that she alone saved France from
the English.
1t is not only the peasant women who
are assuming the duties of men. but also
the women Of the cities and towns. BY
the withdrawal of thousands Of men from
every field of labor. transportation and
other conditions have been seriously af-
fected so the places Of husbands and
fathers have been taken by the women
of their families whenever 1t has been
possible.
They have become conductors. ticket
punchers, teamsters-anything required
by the exigencies of war. Horse cabs are
rapidly becoming more numerous in
Paris as the chauffeurs are called to the
front. and the women are not only prov
ing themselves excellent Jehus but are
safer drivers and more polite than the
men.
But the horse cabs will replace the
taxis only as long as the horses are not
needed by the army. For the high
stopper and the pedigreed mount on
which monsieur takes his morning canter
in the Bois de Boulogne. as we'll as the
cart horse with which jacques and
Jeanne bring their produce to the gates
Of Paris, Is only to certain point the
Evening star., 1914-08-23

Boston or Seattle?
NM matter that has been
y" postponed too long will now
probably take shape as
result of the war in Europe. The move
ment may be forced by the war. We
may strike out on a line of our own, in
stead of following Paris, in the invention
of styles
1t will mean more work for the Ameri-
can silk worm and for the milliners and
dressmakers of Muncie and Milwaukee.
II will be no slight undertaking to keep
up with the pace that has been set for
Years by Paris, Peking and the Fiji Is
lands. Our silk worms may be depended
on TO work double time without protest.
or until the s. P. c. A. interferes.
Far more important is the question
whether the Muncie milliners can make
up the styles out Of their heads. Will
the dressmakers OF Chicago. Washington
and New York riso to their full ability
10 create?
The time has come for American fash
ions for American women, and 1t is up
to suCn municipalities as Muncie as much
as to any place else. except, perhaps.
New York, to soothe our women who at
first may be expected to utter cries Of
with a sacred Partisan name embroidered
in the waistband nor French roses in
seventeen colors to put in a hat.
Clothes. somebody has said, are as per-
sonal as pain. Paquin. Worth. Callet
and Lucille have been selling most of the
ammunition with which American wom-
en- have made their conquests. 1t is now
an open field for Americans
There is just as much opportunity for
some dressmaker In Medicine Hat to ere
ate clothes as for some modiste in West
iooth street. New York. to turn out rain
bow tinted visions at $50 a head. The
interest In the result Is enhanced tre-
mendously by reason of this widespread
competition. Des Moines and Mattoon
designers should labor with relish to
embelhsh the feminine charms. BY the
middle Of September everybody will want
clothes.
Perhaps genius in Cleveland will in
vent new movements in dress. He may
revolutionize the Silhouette OF woman.
The Yankee has always ranked high
as an inventor. Something far far bet
ar than the barefoot movement the
ankle corset movement, the birch-bend-
ing-by-a-stream movement may emanate
from the brain OF some native genius.
The gay Lenten buds alone should make
a designer Independently well to do.
War 10 terrible, but II 1t had to come II
will be blessing II one Of the results
is to take the business of making styles
for America out Of the hands of Partisan
extremists. 1t may require a great cour-
age to wear some of the homemade
styies-at frst-until Cincinnati milliners
. and modistes get the hang of creating
them. But the women OF America have
never failed III patriotism, and the stern
realization that what they do is for theiI
eountry's good will sustain them in prac-
.ically any crisis that may arise.
Our women are brave. They have no
Evening star., 1914-08-23

to be shadows and echoes of other Wom-
en- in style and fashion.
Earrings. which impart to the features
decidedly equine appearance, can be
made by our own earring factories. If
we but will we can show Poiret that
when he looked out of the window that
afternoon he didn't look long enough.
An expert told me few days ago that
every people on earth should adapt its
dress to the climate in which it lives
and to the conditions under which it
carries on its work
1T should devise it," said this author
ity. according to its racial and national
temperament and taste. 1t should follow
the example Of other people only so
far as it can profit and benefit by it.
Leadership in feminine fashions has not
been acquired by Paris by mere chance
Many reasons exist to maintain it. Some
are good and some are bad. The good
are those that derive their force from
the artistic grace and charm of French
from the lack Of initiative and SELF
poise among the peoples that find it
easier to initiate than invent"
We may meet with considerable diff
Guilty in supplying the 5th avenues of
the country with the latest furs, the
animals that will therefore continue to
wear them throughout next winter be-
ing perhaps the only beneflciaries of the
war.
Also our sales people NAV at first find
1t little hard on their conscience to sell
a f1fty-dollar American hat for $195-as
the French can do with such charming
grace. And it will be interesting to note
whether the little oead American bird on
the hat will be made to bring anything
like the little dead bird that was formerly
alleged to be imported.
There Is no reason to doubt that our
sales people may be depended upon in
this emergency. Our women who shop
try to get the best results from the most
money they can spend.
~
The artists Of pen and pencil if they
have not all gone to the war for their
publications. should jump in and help
theAmerican-fashion r-American-wom
en- movement. as Du Maurier did some
years ago in Punch. when he drew his
graceful giraffes. BY some miracle all
the ladies became like them, eleven heads
high. Gibson gave every man under thir-
ty finely chiseled jaw. and chin whis-
kers for any age are practically unknown
today.
1t is a mistake. probably. to bring men
into an article dealing with fashions; and
yet word should be written to report q
conversation had with an important man
in the tailoring profession in 9th avenue
a few days ago, when this subject was in
mind.
This man told me. with every evidence
of being tremendously in earnest-in fact,
he showed me letter that had been
printed to mail to all the tailors In the
Evening star., 1914-08-23

+ AMENTATIoN is heard in some
directions that the occupation of
war correspondent Is gone. Sue
cessful strategy depends very largely
on surprise. and surprise depends on
secrecy in military operations. Com
munication has developed and extended
with such remarkable swiftness that
what is known In one part of the world
may be known in all parts of the world
within a short time, and thus all in
formation of troop movements, loca-
ton of troops and any other scrap Of
news interesting to the enemy must be
kept within ones own lines. Leakage
of news may mean defeat slaughter
and dishonor.
formation by all modern armies. Ac-
cording to the Field Service Regula-
tions of the United States Army, mill
tary information may be considered un-
der two general heads-that collected
by the general staff in time of peace
and that obtained by troops in the field
after the outbreak Of hostilities. The
former relates to geography, resources
and military strength Of the various
theater of operations and to the posi-
ton. strength and intentions of the
enemy in the field. and sis absolutely
essential to enable a commander to
properly estimate the situation"
In the latest edition of the American
Field Service Regulations it is written
that:
Information in the field is obtained
from various sources-higher COM
manders. adjoining troops. inhabita nts,
newspapers, letters. telegraph files.
prisoners. deserters, spies, maps and
reconnaissance. An efficient secret
service is organized as soon as prac-
ticable."
All information obtained having any
relation to the enemy or the theater Of
operations is sent to the Intelligence
section Of the general staff group Of
headquarters of units larger than a
brigade. This section weighs and
classides the information.
1t is set forth in our own regulations
that in hostile territory influential
persons. especially those supposed to
be active in the enemys cause. may be
seized and their persons and houses
searched. Letters and newspapers in
Evening star., 1914-08-23

post Offices and files in telegraph Of
tices are carefully examined and every
thing of Importance sent to higher au-
thority. Matter not of importance is
replaced, If time permits: If not, the
whole is sent to headquarters.
A significant paragraph in our Field
Service Regulations is that which
says: Unless instructions have been
given to spread false information. all
persons connected with the military
military situation. plans. movements.
etc. with or in the presence of civil
ians of any age, sex or nationality
Along the German French Belgian
Luxemburg frontier and along the
Russian Austrian German frontier the
opening stages of the great war were
marked by cavalry clashes which were
excitably chronicled as battles. and
now and then the word "reconnais-
sance" crept in. And. by the way.
United States Army e-kon-e-sanz,"
with the stress on the second syllable.
A reconnaissance is news-gathering
expedition-a military term used to
designate the work of troops or indi-
viduals when gathering information in
the field. This work begins as soon as
the theater of possible operations is
entered and it continues throughout
the campaign.
Field service regulations say that
IN" matter what other sources of in
formation of the enemy may be avail
apie. reconnaissance must be depended
upon to obtain the information upon
which all tactical movements of troops
should be based" 1t is provided that
in forces of the strength of division
or larger, the aero squadron will oper-
ate in advance of the independent cav
airy in order to locate the enemy and
keep track of his movements. and 1t is
impressed on military officers that
contact with the enemy once gained
will be maintained thereafter contin-
uouSly."
Evening star., 1914-08-23

property of their owners. Every year
the owners of horses have to furnish the
minister of war with list Of their
animals, one and all being liable to requi-
sition in case of war.
OF course. indemnification Is made
What is called the Chevaline conscription
Evening star., 1914-08-23

hesltated to accept foreign models. For
some time past the figure has been quite
assertve. Will American fashions for
American women-a good slogan-mean
that there will likely be an immediate re-
turn to the concealment of the figure?
Some experts on 9TH avenue with whom
l talked last week We're positive the
time had not arrived for a more discreet
revelation Of it. But who can say?
Manufacturers of dress goods may be
expected to use their influence in secur-
ing return to some artistic treatment
of the crinoline styles. The manufac-
turner's must try to recoup the losses on
unsold materials caused by the narrow
ness of women for the last several sea-
sons.
Evening star., 1914-08-23

Reconnaissance is usually made by
cavalry. and this is the explanation Of
the numerous collisions between bodies
of cavalry in the overture to the titanic
world tragedy. This cavalry seeks to
determine the strength and disposition
of the enemy. 1t screens, or conceals.
the movements of its army and seeks
to guard 1t against surprise or inter-
ruption. The enemy's cavalry is engaged
in the same business. Infantry is used
for reconnaissance, especially "closej
In reconnaissance" preceding and dur
Evening star., 1914-08-23

The self-sacrifcing women of Paris have
even consented to lie prone in boxes to
attain the proportions of the svelte sar-
dine. This has caused loss of millions
of dollars to manufacturers who make
material to sell by the yard.
Another problem to be solved by our
home artists Is SO to arrange for changes
in styles that the manipulations of the
manufacturers may appear as a logical
and vital development to all women who
are concerned deeply with their personal
appearance, and the adornment of their
physical beings. tThis sentence should
have stopped at the words all women"
and II the editor takes out the tauto-
logical twaddle which follows the sense
will not be impa1redo
Henri Bergson makes great deal of
money and when he is in America has a
corking time. divulging the information
that "a thing no sooner is than 1t is not"
Our dressmakers will, if they have not
already. soon get In the Bergson mood.
They will work nights in Chillicothe and
Paducah to evolve something new In
gowns covered with ruffies, penwipers and
punches OF things. even IL each detail is
not a marvel in itself. Let us hope they
will not get the color too strong.
When Paul Poiret, the Paris color COL
laborator, was in New York in the spring
he said he could not think there would be
an American mode. BY way Of explana-
ton he added:
Il have looked out in the streets this
afternoon and don't see any signs of it
l can't believe there is such a thing"
He was asked why.
For the same reason that there is not
a French cocktail" he replied. You see,
every people makes specially Of some
thing, and elegance is q French thing
That is why the French mode is univer-
SAL
Poiret invented the lampshade gown,
which is going out. He showed IL first In
the ballet Most styles have started in
some opera house or theater In Paris.
Poiret's brain teens with endless
schemes. both good and new, to use a
Gilbertian phrase. He invents. and.
whether the world applauds or frowns, 1t
has had a trick of following his lead.
When he Invented the narrow skirt the
world ridiculed and then adopted it. He
Is likely to break out in a new place at
any moment. He travels, like a comet,
in an orbit all his own.
But these things need not annoy our
dressmakers over on this side The war
Evening star., 1914-08-23

ILL fashion incubate from
Boston or Seattle?
A matter that has been
postponed too long will now
The weekly messenger. [volume] (St. Martinsville [i.e. St. Martinville] La.) 1886-1948, 1914-09-19
DIED..

Mrs. Jules Nsctoux, nee Lau.
renee Lsperuse. died here,
at 1920 o'clock in tho evening,
Monday Sept. 14tb., at the age of
81 years and 3 months. She was
buried at 4:30 O'Clock Tuesday
evening.
Mra. Nectoux was sick for long
time and suffered a great deal.
Mrs. Nectoux leaves a husband
and two children, a son and a
daughter, father and mother bro
ther and two sisters to mourn her
death.