Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1914-11-03

vironments. but-the first thing all
the worth while people in this profes
sion did was to hurry to Paris for in
spiration, resulting in Paris gowns for
Holland rather than in Holland gowns
Likewise the Italian queen tried to
stimulate the Italian dressmakers by
wearing only gowns made in her own
country, but for all that they were dis
tinCtly ParSian in cut and style.
The present war has given the de-
signining and making OF gowns here
in the United States new impetus
, and one of the leading New York stores
recently advertised an exhibition OF
suits and gowns made and designed IN
their own American workrooms. These
costumes were shown on trained mani
kins and in most artistic surroundings.
The result was wonderfully successful,
although they were, in truth, so essen
TALLY under the Partisan influence that
one could hardly call them truly Amer
lean made. No doubt in the course of q
number of such endea vors-while Paris
is shut off by wall Of Wharf.-The home
influence will be more apparent.
The gown which seemed to me most
American was an evening gown OF
yellow brocade, the color of q Cali
fornia poppy. A wide girde Of pink vel
vet girdied the waist. The pink was OF
the color of the poppy petals at their
base. ~
A charming dancing frock for the
young girl, with waistline so short that
it Just escaped being pure Empire was
made OF white chiffon. Triple flounces
bound with satin formed the skirt. the
satin binding causing each flounce TO
stand out The waist was made with a
rounded low reck which came out Well
toward the shoulders, and was finished
with hea ding Of it's own. A three inch
frill fell from just below the heading.
The aieeves we're mere friil OF chitfon,
BOUND on the edge. Wound gracefully
around the bodice just below the ruff
f!e rot combining the fullness, Was a
velvet ribbon of grayish blue. 1t Cross
ed in the back and was caught togeth-
er in the front. Strands of pink climb
ing roses were becomingly placed over
one shoulder
The street and afternoon costumes
were full short, perhaps ankle length
and even shoe-top length. In all were
shown the new silhoutte which has re-
placed the fashionable bouffant effect
so popular last year. This silhoutte
flares at the bottom of the skirt or
tunic, the flare coming at the sides. At
the back and from the skirt should be
flat to the figure. In order to success
fully obtain this effect. and the proper
the fitness at the back is boXpleaded
in two or more large box-pleats which
are pressed very flat. At the sides or
front the skirt is gathered or shirred.
A stunning tailored suit for a young
married woman, suitable for luncheons
or afternoon bridge. shows the clever
combination Of the new black braid
with velvet. The skirt has the full rip
ply appearance which~is so smart
f,,n Nhn
cut on the straight lines of French
soldiers uniform. This is called q
Cuirass shape.
A dress which could be used for gen.
eral utility wear, not too dressy Tor
mornings and yet dressy enough for
afternoons, was made from blue and
yellow plaid. The model was called Rob
Roy. because the idea was taken from
the Scotch Highlander's tartan.
The coats, both for evening and Tor
every day wear, were strongly in
fluenced by the Cossack coats. These