The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-25

de Buerre, Claude NCheryS, Is 80
entirely French that several persons
have wondered how II happened that
vas not at the front lighting for my
country. Well, the explanation is very
simple am by birth Irish and by
education French. I have lived In
France the greater part Of my life. and
ali my interests lie in France. but I am
not Z Frenchman. I wish to make this
statement. because II would be unbear-
able 10 be misunderstood.
have Just had a very interesting and
Instructive interview with Redfern's
manager and have had an opportunity
Of examining the latest winter models
GRATED by this famous tailor. One and
oil they pleased me.
Redeem. like Worth. Paquin and other
influential dress artists, 10 not making
any radical changes of '1igne" this sea-
SON You will remember that an
nounced at the beginning OF the war
that this would be the case. At that
time I made a point OF learning at first
hand the Intentions OF the most impor-
tant dressrakers. tailors and milliners
in Paris. From each one heard the
same story.
We shall keep on as usual, 90 far a.
many be possible" they said, but we
shall not introduce any sensational nov
cities this winter"
And this is as Il should be. Though
che prospects OF Franch and her allies
look exceedingly bright at tho present
moment. We cannot shut our eyes TO
the fact that already there has been a
terrible loss OF life No matter how
we'll We may come out at the Anal set
Element we cannot get away from the
fact that immense sums OF money have
been expended. II will be some time
before the people of France or of Eng
land OF Russia, recover from this fear
m, blow We shall all have TO 20
quietly.
Tho great dress artists have not hee-
utsd 10 Join hands with those who are
erNvely making the best OF things
They will continue to create beautiful
fashions: they will Introduce exquisite
and graceful novelties. but for some
time to come they will not insist on
saficsl changes OF outline which would
SoiiEe those women who wish to be -in
Ee movement" TO go to unwelcome
Expense
The new Redfern models are exceed
fnAy graceful In outline. The coats In
particular are quite admirable. This
week I have sketched two OF these gar.
hsnts and my readers will be able &c
iudee for themselves Of their attractive
qualities.
Tho long coat made Of brocaded satir
10 one Of the very new models. Here
ws have something which is new with
out being In the least eccentric. The
coo. Is exceptionally long and very
w!ds az the hem. 1t is moulded to thu
figure at the back, but the fronts are
rather loose.
The material OF tho original mode
yrs a splendid brocadeh satin which
had dull green ground and bolC
pattern in rich shades OF dark blue
white and black; the brocaded patterr
was lightly outlined with pale golC
threads. The coat was lined with Egyp
ian blue satin and was bordered al
round with dark brown bear.
This style OF coat will be very fash
ionable all through the winter. II will
he made in brocaded velvet or satin, II
Tho new faced cloths which are beauti
fully soft in texture. in diagonal serg
and in plain ribbed velvet.
The special point is the immense mar
Al the hem. Nearly all the new coats
and many skirts too. show this out
mo luuttu tOIilt VI lllt ht"fSN WAN
ing skirts are cut on a genuine UNI
brella pattern.
Redfern Is applying handsome braid
ing designs TO coats OF this order. On
OF hts most attractive models was mad
OF navy blue diagonal serge, in heav'
make. The coat was very long an
vide a, the hem. Ike the garment
have sketched. There were some blac
silk bra4dings Just below the norma
waist line and the design extended owe
the hips. The revers were turned bac
with black breitschwanz.
Ny second full length sketch con op
pos!te page) shows a beautiful blaC
velvet costume, also Redfern mode
Here ! have Indicated the ultra Ion
tun!c coat. which buttons down IN
front and IS confined Mt the back by
rash. The outline shown hero Is pecu
lar, but IL IS not unduly eccentric. Gar
ments Of this order were introduced int
he world OF fashion at the end OF In
summer season.
The ultra long tunic and tuulc cos
have proved very becoming to the aver
gewoman. AT first sight 1t would seel
AZ though such a garment was boun
20 cut the figure in an unbecomin
way; but no. When these long tun
coats are cleverly worn they almost a
WAYS scOre a success.
I have already pointed out that We
vet ss 70 be one OF the special materia
Of this winter-black velvet frst ar
then all the rich dark shades of brow
purple, prune and gray. Dark blue We
vet Will also be worn, but artistic shad,
o brown. prune and purple will
more popular.
The short skirt which accompane
me tunic coat shown in my sketch We
comparatively wide at the hem. but II
extreme length and width OF the tun
made the skirt look quite insignificant
RMS is one OF the latest Ideas. TT
other afternoon in a very smart re-
aurant was looking down on II
uroWd from balcony which ran arour
me tea rooms. There were sever
women wearing costumes like the one
nave illustrated and in each case Il
enect seen from above was that OF q
snhoTnally short full skirt. From tn
distance one could not distinguish Il
sNFt proper and 1t seemed as thong
me tun.c itself formed a skirt.
The model which have sketched hi
oshds OF white fox round the collar al
9n the cuffs This Is a new and charm