Evening star., 1914-07-26

they must be bought at that time. and
it is for this work that the largest
american shops keep men and women IN
Paris all the year round. But for some
reason that | would not attempt to eN-
plain. these additional seasons in chang
ing the fashions do not make an I'M
preston over here.
Possibly the best reason is climatic
Our seasons begin earlier and later than
theirs do. Probably the best reason is
that women go abroad in such large
numbers in June and July that they BUY
their clothes in Paris preferably.
The invasion of Europe in summer by
Americans is so tremendous tand this
does not mean only fashionable Amerl-
cans that women prefer to go there IN
their spring clothes and make up their
minds after they arrive what to wear
for the rest of the season. These rea-
sons may explain the fact that we wear
our spring styles into and through the
summer. and another point is that While
Paris and London are at their height OF
fashion and social gayety, Americans
are living in the country or travelling IN
search of change.
one may ask what of Newport and Bar
Harbor and White sulphur? And the
answer is that Americans never attempt
to set new styles at those places: So
ciety folk do not indulge in the kind of
gayety that city life produces
And America, 'unpatriotic as it may
sound does not take her fashions from
her own summer resorts, but from those
advanced abroad. When she adopts new
things in summer which is seldom she
copies them from the French races.
How the Fashions Have Changed.
The Importance of a change of style
in Paris during the summer lies in the
fact that we get it here in the autumn.
and as forecast it is interesting. In
variably, when one has seen a success
full fashion tried out by individuals in
Paris in the summer. one looks. not in
vain. for it at the exclusive openings in
August. 1t may appear in the earlier
openings at the smaller houses, but this
is rarely the case. If so. it is purposely
excluded at the great houses.
If the Galleries Lafayette have the
fashion. none of the best houses will
handle it. and every one knows that the
Galleries make the dressmakers furious
and the women happy.
Well, be the future what it may, here
is what July in Paris has brought forth:
Brocades and silver cloths for evening
gowns, and while we have been wearing
metallic fabrics. Silver cloth was In
troduced by handful of the very smart
leaders of the high world over there, and
Immediately it was taken up by the ex-
clusives, for it is not a fabric for every
one.
1t is quite adorable in it's present
weave as the manufacturers have kept
it supple and glistening. and with Its
half yelling of tulle, and its touch of
pink roses or sometimes black ones, 1t
makes a highly distinguished gown.
Paris has seen many of these since the
first day of June. The fabric is cool
enough for evening wear, although t
must not touch the body. for the mois-
fryra ut a h0U a
waist these frocks are entirely Of tulle.
for the fabric is heaped upon itself with
out seeming lining. in order to give the
nearest approach to a cloudlike effect
that is obtainable.
That Chemise Of Tulle.
Another novelty that the season has
brought out is veritable chemise OF
tulle or silk net, as we call it. dropped
over a slip of metallic cloth. 1t is in
keeping with the moyen age line that has
also been introduced since the February
openings for summer clothes.
On this chemise there Is a sash well
down on the figure. and a deep decol-
letage, back and front, and as for the
sleeves, they are too small to be given
a name. This costume is not intended
for the woman with large bust-what
costume is?-but it is as becoming as all
the other types Of modern gowns
More mad More the Moyen Age.
1t seems strange commingling: the
ruff1ed skirt and the moyen age bodice
without a waist line and with whatever
belt it boasts arranged inches below the
natural place. But the two fashions have
come into being together. and although
few women wear them at the same time,
there are few smart wardrobes that do
not contain both.
This very fashion for the moy en- age,