The star-independent. [volume] (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1904-1917, 1914-11-12
AIDING Shrubs and roses
MC0LD winters 'SWEATHER
Fourth Article in Series on Winter
Caro- Of the Garden--Treatment of
Lilacs, Snowballs, Etc, Not Neces-
sary During the Frosty Season

Washington, D. c., Nov. 12.-While
hlacs, snowballs and certain other
shrubs should be let alone during the |
winter, being neither trimmed nor COW
cred with straw and manure, other
bushes need special attention.
Hydrangeas (semi thcrbaceous) in the
South will last out the winter if prop
erly cared for ut-of doors. The tops
should be protected with straw or
brush. This may he held in place about
tho bushes with q little manure or
stones. The flower buds of the hy-
drangea form in the fall, and this cover
will keep them from winter killing
while shielding the bush from winds
and sun. In the North hydrangeas
must be taken up, planted in tubs and
placed in the cellar. This is generally
true of latitudes north of Philadelphia
The shrub known as brugmansia
should be treated as is the hydrangea.
The brugmansia (known botanically as
datura) is also called thorn apple. 1t
is a cultivated form of jimson weed and
has long, bell-shaped white flowers and
rather coarse foliage.
AS q rule, shrubs should not be
trimmed in the fall. This process is
timely Immediately after the blooming
period, if this is in the spring, as in the
case of the SNOWFALL. If the shrubs
bloom in the fall, as do some hydran-
geas, the rose of Sharon and some IL
lacs, they should not he cut directly
| after blooming, but in the spring Of
the following year.
The mock orange, which is also
known as 'syringa,' needs no special
treatment to help it winter the severe
weather. The name "syringa," al
though popularity applied to the mock
orange, is really more appropriate for
the lilac, which is known botanically
| by that designation, while the mock
orange is botanicaliy Philadelphus. "
Roses: Almost all kinds of roses
are hardy in the vicinities of Wash
ington and st. Louis and to the south
of line drawn between these points.
From Washington northward local con-
ditions influence the successful cultiva.
tion of certain varieties. Some roses,
as the briar and rugosa, need no pro-
| lection, but other varieties, such as
| the neutrality-suspicious., teas and hybrid
teas, need special care, particularly
north of the fortieth parallel. Teas
and hybrid4teas hardly succeed in Chi
cago, although the hybrid d-perpetuals
grow as far north as Canada. All
these classes do we'll On Long Island
and in Boston near the sea when proper
care is given them. These varieties in
the vicinity of Washington need mere
ly little manure on the ground to
prevent alternate freezing and thawing.
Farther north, however, they should be
treated as follows:
Cut the tops to within 80 inches of
the ground. Cover the roots with
coarse manure or leaves or similar lit
ter. Hold this in place by brush,
which also acts as a protection. Ever
green boughs may be substituted for
the coarser litter, except in the most
northern regions.
| 1t is best to draw mounds of earth
about six OF eight inches in height
about the base of the rose bushes to
keep them from mice. In some iocah-
ties the loose brush around the roots
will attract mice, who will make their
winter quarters there and destroy the
rose bushes. AS an added protection
against mice, permit the ground to
freeze slightly before winter protection
is supplied. In fact, roses should not
be protected until after the first light
freeze. which may be expected in
Washington about the first of Decem-
ber, but earlier farther north.
In the latitude of Philadelphia and
farther south climbing roses usually
need no protection during the winter
unless they are. a particularly tender
variety. Farther north these roses
need protection similar to that given
to the tea and hybrid-tea roses.
Climbing roses may be best cared
| for by being removed from their sup
ports. The branches should then be
covered over with little dirt and
treated as hybrid-perpetual roses would
be treated. A little fall trimming
might he desirable to lessen the space
occupied by the branches on the
ground. Such side branches as are not
to be needed for next season s bloom
ing may be cut off. Such cutting off
and shortening of the ends as would
otherwise be done in the spring may
be done in the fall before covering,
merely for convenience.
The above method is much more sat
isfactory than attempting to put straw
about the roses as they remain on their
posts or trellises.
(No. of this series, "The Indoor
I II