davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1914-09-25
THE TRANSPARENCY
OF evening GOWNS

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS, September 5.-The American
buyers who were here for the openings
and they were few in number, be-
cause they were kept away from the
city by lack of transportation-wer
disappointed in the fact that evening
gowns remained much as they had
been.
Callot made the only definite de-
parture, and she had outlined this de-
parture in one gown that she exploited
last spring. 1t was called eastern then.
and moyen-age now, as the latter name
10 attached to everything that drops in
. straight line from shoulder to hips
Long, Loose Bodice.
Again she shows the long-waisted
bodice of transparent gauze. usually
Carrying colored flowers. and the tight
lower skirt. and the broad belt at the
hips While this gown is especially at
tractive. for young women. and even
for women over thirty who have slim
girlish figure, 1t is not the type Of even.
ing gown that can be freely INDUCED
in. 1t requirets too much style to
carry 1t OF for the average woman to
wear 1t. As a rule, 1t IS not q gown
that will meet with instant popularity
except among an ultra smart set.
Other gowns shown at other houses
continue to be vague and indefinite in
outline with amazingly short skirts
festoOned with tulle and blouses that
have regular normal waistlines, sleeve
less, and cut very low in the back.
Callot shows one gown that is so
strikingiy like the model for which
Worth has always been famous; and
one has an intuitive feeling that this
is to be her next move in silhouette.
It has a wrapped bodice that goes in a
white tuile over the shoulders and q
simply draped skirt with q train. The
whole makes clean cut. long line Of
black.
It is quite unlike anything callot has
Evening star., 1914-09-25

large picturesque sailors occupying the
center of the style stage. Tricornes and
continentals are very good
Gold ribbons are much used. as we'll
as grosgrain ribbons with gold or silver
edges. Fur trimmings are also very
good.
velvets are used to the exclusion OF
other materials. A bright finished cara
cul in combination with velvet 10 q new
idea
Ostrich feathers are showing strong
tendencies toward popular favor. but
these. too. are In the metallic shades
Evening star., 1914-09-25
uLUSTR ATEp
AMERICAN FASHIONS.
By LILLIAN E. YOUNG.

What were the fashionable colors
last year? No one remembers-nor
cares particularly, for it has no bear
ing on this years smart colors. and.
anyway, we're all too busy trying to
find out just which ones will be fash
ionable this year.
To begin with, green is much in ia
vor-not all shades. The preference is
given to soft messy and olive tones,
none of which is very dark. There
is a new shade called empire green,
that in suitings and dress silks has a
distinctive charm. Black will be used
more extensively than ever before, and
all the dark grays are in order.
Today's design is particularly pretty
in a development of the above-men-
Evening star., 1914-09-25
AFTER-DtNNER CANDIES.
Peppermint Drops

Make thick paste Of confectioners
sugar and little essence Of pepper
mint, to which water has been added.
This should be mixed on plate and
with broad knife. Then put the paste
into pan that has lip or little spout
at one side: melt it over the fire and
let it come to boil: take it off and
drop it from the lip of the pan onto a
tray covered with waxed or parafin
paper. Try to have the drops all Of
the same size or shape. When cold,
loosen from the paper by slipping the
end Of q knife blade under each. If
the candy congeals before the drops are
all made. melt it again over the fire.
Keep in glass jars.
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Steamed Apple Pudding. !.

Mix and sift two cups hour, four
teaspoons baking powder and one-half
teaspoon salt; work in two tablespoons
butter and add three-fourths cup milk,
toss on Toured board. pat and roll out,
place four apples pared, cored and cut
in eighths on middle Of dough, and
sprinkle with one tablespoon sugar.
mixed with one-fourth teaspoon each
salt and nutmeg; bring dough around
Steam one and one-half hours.
Evening star., 1914-09-25

toned empire charmeuse, combined
with taupe satin and Chantilly lace.
/ The bodice is typical of the prevail
ing basque mode. 1t buttons closely
down one side, forming a square neck
that is trimmed with a rather broad
band of opossum fur and finished with
an inner ruche of white chiffon. A
pink corsage rose is caught at one side
of the collar.
a full tunic of green charmeuse ex-
tends to the knees, and below this
hangs a longer Embroidered lace
tunic. dyed to match the taupe satin
underskirt. -
To obtain the: wrinkled effect about
the body OF basque waists. It is q good
scheme to cut a plain center-back por-
tion. to which the sides are shiTred
alone the seams for short distance
above the normal waist line. This
plan should be adopted in making the
frock here illustrated.
Evening star., 1914-09-25

Very. very dark green formed the
ground of this wool plaid and was crossed
by lines OF red and white. The frock was
made in Russian style with an invisible
closing at the center front and two box
pleats running from shoulder to hem in
front and back. A sash of red moire is
drawn beneath these pleats and knotted
to the left of the front. The little white
lawn collar and cuffs have an embroid-
cred design picked out in red. The bon
net worn with this was covered in black
velvet. and the joining of crown and brim
was hidden beneath a pleated ribbon of
red moire with ends and loops falling at
the back
Evening star., 1914-09-25
BY ANNE RITTENHoUSE.
Special Correspondence Of The Star.

Special Correspondents Of The Star.
PARIS, September 6.-lt Is well
known that two Of the best designers
in Parts continued their work OF Gre
ating styles from camp and from the
Red Cross hospital. so this may account
for the fact that the new sleeve shows
a brassard Of embroidery.
Premet puts 1t on a dark blue one
piece frock. using dull colors of silk
floss which match two pointed pieces
that are placed on, the hips, or rather
in front Of the hips, and carry out the
Evening star., 1914-09-25

SMART LITTLE COAT OF SEAL.
WITH SKUNK COLLAR AND CUFFS.
THE VEST Is OF YELLOW VELVET.
colors used in a belt that goes across
the front, below the waistline and
slips through two straight slides of
the serge placed at the under-arm
seams
There ara other kinds Of brassards
On sleeves made Of plain bands of ma
teHtal with q symbol or. ornament
worked In the middle. Even when
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Rose Drops.

Take rose petals. cut the white part
q. g.. that which is nearest the center
of the rose) from the red. Dry the
petals and rub or beat them to q fine
powder. and to an ounce of this pow
der add one pound of confectioners'
yellow peel of two lemons grated into
it now over a slow fire and stir we'll.
When 1t is melted and scalding hot
take it of and drop it on paper. Set
near the fire and the next day the
drops can be taken of the paper.
Evening star., 1914-09-25
A Fine Iron Cleaner.

The best iron cleaner is piece Of
wire gause. 1t IL better than sand
paner, for the dirt falls through the
hales and 1t 70 not rubbed into the iron
again.
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Noyen-Age Decolletage.

Another difference between this gown
and what Worth would make is in the
absence OF rhinestones; that celebrated
house never relinquishes this form of
garnituse ana is using it today
Worth. by the way. like Paquin. made
showing in London during August
and has now opened the house here to
catch whatever American trade is pass
ing.
To sum up the situation in evening
clothes: one can go on with the styles
Of last winter. Satin is again used
cry is dropped to the knees and is no
longer at the hips. There Is a marked
tendency. however. on the part of one
or two good houses. to bring back the
high decolletage of the moyen-age. II
Is undoubtedly ugly!
ANNE RITTENHOUSE.
Evening star., 1914-09-25

done for years and is a distinct de-
paEture from her method 1t is prob
ably a triae more transparent above
the bust than Worth allows, but every
ono knows that Callot caters to the
kind OF women that like a sensational
touch
Evening star., 1914-09-25
THE SLEEVE WITH A BRASSARD.

there is no application in color. there Is
| three-inch band that divides tne up
per and lower sleeve midway between
elbow and shoulder.
The Wartime Sleeve.
1t is natural that this sleeve should
suggest itself to any designer in this
hour. So many brassards have peeh
worn in Paris since mobilization began
that the government has had TO step
| in and reduce the number and deny
the privilege. The government itself
| must give permission. or the orassaIu
will be investigated All the people az
tached to the various ministries even
in the humblest capacity, wear pras-
position: the Red Cross workers wear
their badge, all the officials at the sra
tions wear white and gold brassaros.
Whoever is doing whatever "ork
throughout the government is enlpuw pp.;~,,
cred to put on this arm badge, Which
serves as a protection as wen as an
indication to the public
The government rightly thought that
too many people were taking aovant-
age of the protective part and there
fore cuftailed the right to wear the
brassard, and the whole episode even
tually gave rise to fashion.
Hundreds of Americans may nave
this sleeve in their gowns this winter
without realizing it's significance and
it's origin. 1t is a good touch and pro-
vides a wide scope for ingenuity.
1t is best to omit it on coat, for
the dominating sleeve in the outer gar
ment is long. small. untrimmed and
set into a regulation armhole.
Because of the slimness OF the top
part of the new coats there Is not a
fraction of an inch used at the top of
the sleeve more than is necessary. The
armhole is not outlined by cord, as
it was once. but is smoothly fitted irto
the shoulder.
When one uses the brassard on
blouse it is best to put 1t on both
arms and make 1t of embroidery, if
DOsSihle
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Millinery Notes.

Hats are larger. yet the small close
fitting turbans continue in marked
favor, but sailor effects with soft
crowns seem to be gaining continu-
ously. Sailors in great variety are being
shown with various size brims
Evening star., 1914-09-25
THE DAILY MENU.

BREAKFAST.
Bartlett Pears. Oatmeal
Bacon and EggA
Rolls. Coffee.
LUNCHEON.
Baked Beans with Tomato Sauce.
Bread and Butter Sandwiches.
Celery Salad. Waters.
Cake. Tea
DINNER,
Potato Chowder.
Cold, Sliced Roast Beef.
Pepper Cabbage
Boiled Potatoes. Hot Butter Sauce.
Steamed Apple Pudding. Clear Sauce
Coffee.
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Tomato Figs.

Allow a half pound Of granulated
sugar to every pound OF tomatoes fysl-
low plum tomatoes or very small red
ones). Put just enough water with
the sugar to melt it. When 1t boils
put In the tomatoes with the skins on.
Let them simmer gently until trans
parent (about two hoursl. Skim out
carefully and drain Of all sirup.
Spread On q platter to dry in sun;
sprinkle ., little sugar over them while
CRYING; do 20 for two or three days.
Pack In boxes. Seven pounds Of toma-
toes will produce two quarts Of hgs.
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Broad Stripes Are Used.

1t is still fashionable to use a broad
ly striped ratine for high collar and
the back, and this fashion has sug-
gested the use of the material as
a narrow vest.
Remember that these bands are not
applied; they are a part of the original
sleeve, which may be cut with a XII
| mono top, OF in three parts. 1t is
equally fashionable to have an arm
hole. or to omit one. Despite all the
Inconvenience of the baggy kimono
shoulder, Its use Is continued by some
of the best designers.
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Err uptiOn
Covered Body
Completely
Unable to Sleep at Night Itching
So Severe. Broke Out as a
Rash. Turned to Boils.
Clothes Irritated. Used Cuti-
cura Soap and Ointment.
Completely Healed.

S21 Lee St., Hampton. ya.-"h July OF hast
year the eczema made its first appearance my
fingers and before the last Of August my body
was completely covered. 1 was unable to sleep
at night the itching was severe. I had to take
sleeping medicines several times week to get
any sleep at ALL It broke out rash and some
Of the eruption turned to bols. My chin was Gov
cred and had several boils on my face. Ny
hands looked so that had to stop school and my
clothes iritated the eruption 50 much that It kept
me scratching all the time. 1 could not stay In a
warm room and could not put my hands in
warm water at all.
"a friend advised me to try Cuticura Soap and
Ointment. 1 sent for samples and then bought a
bon of the Cuticura Ointment and Cuticura Soap
and 1 am completely healed My skin b q
smooth as 1t ever was. use the Cuticura Soap
all the time, for 1t is the best have ever used !"
(SignedD Miss Dudley Trueblood. Jan. %. 1914
Samples Free by Mail
Aitaouyh Casicura Soap t25c> and cuticura Ont
nient t5Oc) are sold throughout the world . sann-
pie OF each with 32-p. Skin Book win be sent nFee
upon request. Address postcard: 'Cuticusa,
Dept. T. Boston"
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Almond Waters.

Boil one pound of granulated sugar
and a scant half pint Of water until it
makes a thin candy; have ready q half
pound Of blanched almonds, pounded
fine with a little rose water or orange
water, the Juice Of one lemon and the
yellow peel Of two lemon grated into
the juice; put the ingredients to-
gether and stir over gentle fire un-
til the sugar is well melted, but do not
let 1t come to a boil after the lemon is
put in. Spread on buttered platters or
dishes. and cut into shapes desired
when cool enough.
Evening star., 1914-09-25

Black velvet hats with gold cords. gold
tinsel, gold flowers and gold braid are
the predominant note.
Evening star., 1914-09-25
Fricasseed Almonds.

Take one pound of unbleached
almonds. dip them in the beaten white
Of an egg. Then take one-half pound
of granulated sugar and Just enough
water to moisten it and boil until 1t
sugars again. Put in your almonds
and stir them until they are we'll COW
cred with sugar. then set them ON
plates and put in a slow oven to dry
for several hours. Keep them In q dry
place.
Evening star., 1914-09-25

Hand-blocked hats continue modish,
With small close-fitting turbans and
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10
"A HORRIBLE EXAMPLE"

During a recent election in Huron
county, Ohio. the liquor interests took
the town Of Findlay. a city OF $4,000
population. as a horrible example OF
what no saloons will do for a city.
Hon. Lincoln Groves. mayor OF Find.
lay, produced evidence to show that
Findlay has the lowest tax rate OF any
municipality In Ohio and that the town
is better morally. financially and indus.
trially than II had ever been during
the wet" period.
AS to the effect upon business, the
Business Mems association is quoted
as saying:
The wet towns around have drawn
nothing away from Flndlay but booze
and buns and neither pay for food or
clothing"
The city council said. Lower taxes,
less disorder and fewer paupers."
The Bankers association stated that
for the three years Immediately fol
lowing the voting out of the saloons
from this county. there was an average
OF over s23O.000 more on deposit in
local banks than during the three
years Immediately preceding the clos
ing OF the saloons"
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10

black names. Their temper Is by some
called playful, but vindictiye would be
more applicable. While walking along
one o. the roads near Lerwick had
to run to shelter, as one OF these
charming animals made a dead set at
me with ears back and teeth showing.
| was informed that that is their usual
reception OF a stranger. They are
owned by nearly everyone on the main.
land. and act as draft horses, being
particularly strong. AS a rule they are
unshod.
To get to this interesting series Of
islands took boat from Limehouse
dock, London. and In 36 hours arrived
in Aberdeen. From thence / went by
another steamer for rs hours TO Ler-
wick the capital OF the Shetlands. Be
fore actually arriving at Lerwick, early
travellers who wish to enjoy magnia-
cent rock scenery have enough and to
spare, for on sighting Sumburgh head,
the most southerly point Of the main
land. the eyes are literally fascinated
by that headland surmounted by a
iidbuihSthl llbuNhOubts - ut blthmtl
follows this peninsula the whole way
up-a distance of some thirty miles.
Each mile presents new and delight
fui rock scenes unsurpassed on that
oouthern coast.
In Lerwlek Harbor.
Eventually arrived In Lerwick har-
Dor, which, by the way, is one OF the
best natural harbors In the United
Kingdom. II is protected at its outlet
by the Island Bressay, six miles in
length, which is the one already men
Toned IS the center of the pony in.
dustry. This harbor is capable Of
sheltering the entire British feet. and
is used by the admiralty as base dur
ing the -laneuvers.
Lerwick is a quaint town, nesting
as It does round the harbor with a
background Of heather-covered hills.
The town - some three hundred years
old, but contains few OF the old horses,
although the principal street-Com.
mercial -treet-is a remnant OF the
old order OF things, inasmuch as II Is
merely an irregularly winding alley,
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10
TAXES IN LICENSE AND No-LI.
cENSE TOWNS

Mayor Bennett OF Rockford. ILL.,. a
city OF about $4,000. has this to say
concerning taxes in license and TO
license cities: Il have looked up the
records and | find that out OF Is
cities OF its class Rockford has the
lowest tax rate for the last year OF
any. This includes all taxes. A man
who owns a $4,000 home in Rockford
paid s45.56 in taxes last year. The
tax on the same home in Freeport was
s55.55. and In East st. Louis. the most
heavily burdened with saloons OF any
city in the state OF Illinois. the taxes
at the same time on $4,000 home
we're 5000"
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10
SOME TERRIBLE WAR BILLS
That sf the United States Govern
nent Heads the List In
Point o. Sire.

The wsrs Of Napoleon IN - year.
cost France si.000. .0O0. 900 writes Wen.
dell Phillips Dodge 10 Leslie's. Our Civ
u var expenditures OF the Civil gov
ernmsn. amounted TO 1900 900 900. or
nearly thirteen times a. much a year
as Napoieon's. The FrancoGermzn
war cost France $3.50. 10000. besides
an added var indemnity Of 81 90. .9o9-
900. This same great war. which
lasted only 100 days. cost Germany
450.00O,000 for an average fighting
force Of 1.250.O00 men. The other big
European war Of the past half century.
the Russo-Turkish var. cost Russia
t7ss.i40. 600. but she had two years
fighting for her money. The war ir
the far East cost Japan $3.50. .000. 900
and Russia t723. 900 900. not counting
lost ships. Only toward the erd had
either side anything ike a million men
in the field Iialy'E little war With
Turkey cost i400.o00 a day. allowing
for a mere $1,000 fighting men: and the
Boer war. IN which Englsnd's army
averaged 10000. cost tl.O55. 900. 900 IN
two and half years
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10
Ieper Asylun.

The KWnaniu asylum. Korea. has
grown from an old tils-kiln where the
first leper patient was housed hTe
years ago. She had been found on
the roadside. almost dead. with worn
and bleeding feet. and was taken into
the warm tile-kiln and fed and taught
Then followed little wooden build
ing Of three rooms which the mission
aries paid for from their own pockets.
This has been displaced now By a suit
able asylum. the gift Of the Mission TO
Lepers. II will care for 100 patients.
Doctor Wilson writes: 4 am taking
them out Of the snow every day now,
and we shall soon reach the 100 limit"
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10

about thirty feet vide. paved through
out with slabs Of stone. there bein z
no distinction between roadway and
sidewalk. A store here and there en-
croaches on the street, which gives
one the impression. when walking
along II for the first time. that this
must be a blind alley. On coming 70
the uLs0sed terminus, however, one
finds there Is a way round and that
the street meanders on.
The peasant population OF the is
laEds Is extremely interesting The
male portion is mostly devoted to fish
ing and pony rearing The female eie-
ment stays al home. cures the fish,
and. when that is done. carries peat,
which Is the only fuel used, in -creeIs, -
Elung ca the back. While walking
outside the town you see a regular pro-
ceSsion Of women coming and going.
somewhat like ants moving their eggs
They are all knitting as hard as they
can, never looking at their WORK. The
finished portion Of the shawl Is wound
1 round their waist, leaving Just enough
free 10 work with. These are eventu-
ally taken to the stores and exchanged
for the necessities of life. Barter is
the usual mode Of business among
the poorer class. These people wear
an extraordinary kind OF shoe which
piece Of untanned cowhide, the hairy
side being outermost. | believe these
rivelins are quite peculiar to the Shet.
! lands.
The ponies are seen roaming about
the hillsides quite uncared for, and
seemingly wild. although they belong
to the peasantry: these ponies, of
course. are the larger and less e1pen.
sive variety.
Island Without Trees.
There is one distinctive pecullarity
OF all these islands and that is. that
there are absolutely no trees OF any
description growing. The inhabitants
aver that they would spoil the view.
/ took a small boat-which plies as
often as required-across the harbor
to Bressay, and by the courtesy OF the
proprietor looked over the pony farm.
There we're ponies OF all ages and
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10

Some negroes are Unsuitable "jiners, -
and their favorite organizations are
those which assure an ostentatious
funeral
A mistress was demonstrating with
her servant about belonging to one Of
them
"Bonnibel. dop't you think It is
mighty foolish to pay the Friends and
True Mourners society twenty-five
cents every month";"
"Naw'm, Miss May. l don't. You
see. dee amt like some OF de settles;
dee acts liberal. and don't skimp on
nothin' Dee gives you de finest kind
OF coffin, en- makes a way for ev'ry-
body to git to your burial. En- den,
sides dat. dee gives you thirty dollars
at the grave. en- you know thirty dol
lars comes in mighty handy"
The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1914-12-10
1eTlfpeTaflce
e I'd
fCOndgcted b. the National wonan's
Christian Temperance UnionJ
LICENSE AS A sopoRIflc.

LICENSE AS A soPoRIFIc.
Purely as m educational measure.
the temperance organizations OF Mas
saehusetts introduced into the legisla-
ture a bill asking that the fee for q
hrst-class liquor license be reduced
from It's present minimum of 81. 900 to
the minimum Of $50 II afforded an
opportunity to puncture anew the high
license fsllacy and TO show how the
very amount OF the fee served as a
bribe to the several towns for the IL
oensing Of the traffic.
Viewed on its merits and consider
ing the liquor trafic from the stand
point Of any ether legitimate business
u would seem self-evident that the
men Who pay the license would ap-
prove of so wholesale a reduction. and
We might have been excused for ex-
pectins the wholesalers, retailers,
brewers and distillers to be present in
large numbers to endorse the meas
ure. They we-e present. through their
paid representative, but not to en-
Gorse- On the contrary Mr.. Weld
spoke with his accustomed ability
against the suggested change. Why?
Because the large fee acts as bribe.
soporihc to the municipal con-
science. a narcotic to the body polite.
The trade" is wise enough to stand
for large sums paid into the public
treasures. that therefore their deadly
work may be protected.