Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-11-29

age. They were learning the wonder
full lesson of defiance against a tradl-
ton accepted through the centuries.
except by a handful of great queens.
that the conditions of ones arteries
determines ones date Of retirement
from activity.
One wonders, cynically. if man laid
down this law. For 1t is he, through
the centuries. who has discarded those
who no longer had physical youth. SO.
possibly, woman yielded to his law
without reckoning on her own power
to controvert it.
She naturally began her crusade by
adopting the costumery of youth. not
SO much to delude man, as, possibly, to
delude herself. One often lives up to
an appearance. You know yourself
how gay effective gown will bring
the bubbles to your spirit.
In this phase of the change. the
dressmakers assisted her all they could,
for it was to their credit to sell the
varying fashions of youth. But clothes
have only been u contributing factor to
the widespread change of heart among
women regarding age. They have
| thrown off the bindings and trappings
of retirement until they stand out as
race which has pushed age back
thirty yards from the goal posts.
Those who insist upon the costumery
of their age. according to WORKOUT
tradition. are merely refusing to take
their place in the procession that is
prolong inE the active part of women in
the worlds affairs. Don't discard and
refuse. Learn to effect a compromise
, between the clothes of yesterday and
today
Don't say that 1t is not important
how you do your hair because you are
fifty: 1t is more important than it was
at thirty. Don't so abroad with the
ashes of the chimney corner on you
because the calendar marks the date
at which your grandmother retired
from active participation in the swirl
ing life around her.
Remember that the movement toward
the prolongation of youth from the
cradle to the grave has a big side to
it. one that is likely to influence the
world. Be a part of it, but realize its
superficial dangers
1t is strange that in the midst of this
struggle toward rejuvenation we should
be looking with favor toward a revival
of the styles of 1850, which are more
familiar to US through their last recru-
descence in 1895. This calls for that
godet skirt that is fiat front and back
and extremely wide at each side The
width is arranged by extending folds
that are held out by the lining, and as
the material is quite soft the effect is
neither stiff nor ungraceful.
The bodice is slim, following the lines
of the figure, short wasted at the sides
| and boned to point in front over the
skirt. The decolletage shows the top
of the shoulders, but is not very low at
back or front
There are sleeves, tiny. short affairs,
that reach over four inches of the arm
without clinging closely to it.
AS the gown is made entirely of the
fabric-that is. the bodice, the sleeves.
the slight girdle. and the skirt are Of
one material-there is no transparency.
This in itself is a wide divergence
from the established order of today.
The American designer who exploited
this evening frock and the three dane
ers who appeared in it, believe that
women are weary of the perishable
tuIle and chiffon coverings which leave
little to the imagination and little in
the purse because of their constant
need of renewal
The skirt and the decolletage are the
principal points of divergence from the
styles OF the last fifteen years. and 1t
will De interesting to watch the fur
Their development of this fashion.
Everywhere one sees strong evidence