Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-07-12

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seams. but the offspring is charming and
has all the qualities of youth.
| The Waist Line Lengthens.
| The most startling result of this inno-
walton is the quick and emphatic length
ening of the line from the neck to the
hips. Very few designers hold to the
short line now, and even those who would
not relinquish it under the onslaught
made by the Russian and Persian FASH
ions are giving in to this new arrange
ment
The threatened close-htting of the
| figure has not materialized. These long
wasted bodices drop in a straight line
from the neck to the tunic or sash, and
make the figure look exceedingly young
by this adjustment. 1t evidently was the
only way to get around the large waist
measurements Of the woman Of the hour
The sash placed, as 1t is today, at the
end of this straight basque or pinafore
contributes to this youthful appearance,
but woe to the woman who adopts 1t
when her figure cannot afford it. She
should be guided into the safer method
of binding material or a silk cord.
1t is probable this dominating style will
alter the waist line Of all garments. Some
arrangement will be made on evening
gowns to lengthen the line without taking
up the pinafore, which is hardly a suit
able style for a dinner party. If
wishes to rearrange in the new fashion
the simplest method by which to obtain
the desired result is to add a deep girdle
Of silk satin. AS brocade is again
coming into fashion, she could employ
this. 1t must be carelessly placed, not
with precision, and more material put
below than above the waist. No trim
ming is necessary: just the plain silk
artistically wrapped about the figure.
The New Shirt Waist.
Some inventive soul has brought out
new kind of shirt waist that goes outside
the skirt, dropping like a tunic we'll be-
low the hips. and loosely belted below
the waist 1t is made of white or col
ored linen and has a faring collar. or
one that lies fat on the shoulders.
Working on this idea, a few young
women in New York have brought out
a child's frock in colored linen with
shocking at neck and wrists, to be
worn as a blouse or waist. or whatever
one might call it. over a white linen
skirt. or one Of wooden. This is pri-
marily a workwoman's blouse. and the
which one is familiar in France. and
smart women who have gardens in the
country are adopting these workman's
blouses for the out-of-doors, with
Even parasols are arranged to match.
and the effect is charming.
There is no reason why the woman
who remains in the house in town
of colored linen quite an admirable
substitute for the ordinary white shirt
waists. 1t does not soil easily. it comes
in alluring colors and Is easier to wear
must be confined with precision be-
meath the belt of the skirt
One cannot imagine this type of
blouse gaining Roadway as a fashion
be inconvenient: but 1t has many points
of merit for housewear.,
The Flare at the Knees.
DID the long italian cape bring in the
fare at the hem of the garment worn
over the skirt? No one can tell. and the
question is only interesting to those who
keep apace with the history Of woman's
dress through the sources of its develop
ment The fact Is that something. OF
some one. has brought into first fashion
the wide flare on the hem of an outer
and the hips.
Many folks have prophesied that the
underskirt would soon drop from It's sec
ondary place. the haring tunic be length
ened and women go back to one skirt in
stead of wearing two, as they do now.
There is little sign Of this at the present
moment, for the wide tunic. as contrasted
with the narrow skirt beneath, seems to
delight women.
This narrow underskirt must be slashed
in the middle Of the back If one would
walk with comfort, and It has to be short
If one would walk at all. Both Of these
features are added, or rather incorporat-
ed, to the present garment AS to the
exact spot between the hips and the an
kles where the fare should come, each
woman judges Of that for herself. Her
own length of line must determine 1t.
Not only have tunics got this width at
the hem, but all the modish coats. They
hang away from the figure as soon as
they pass the waist line. and many do
not wait for that spot to bulge into
space. Poiret's loose. short coat that
rippled from the shoulders. and which
was worn by well known American
woman fifteen months ago at the races,
has had so many recent followers that