davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
HOUSEWIVES DAILY ECONOMY CALENDAR
THE CLOTHES WE WEAR
BY FRANCES MARSHALL

longer torture our necks with high col
iars and Irritating stiffeners. Sleeves are
neither tight nor full, but for the first
time m many generations they are Just
plain sleeves. To be sure, skirts have
been too narrow for comfort recently.
and IL you bought your clothes ready
made, you were no doubt Inconvenience
by this construction. But with the coming
autumn the era of tight skirts is to be a
thing Of the past. Even now tailors are
making autumn walking suits with skirts
over two yards around. Still the volum-
nous skirts OF our grandmothers' days
are in no danger Of returning.
And shoes-that last stronghold OF wom-
ans vanity-are also becoming sensible.
They say that the recent craze for dane
ing is responsible for this tendency, but
whatever IT is, there has already begun
a reaction against the use OF French high
heels for walking. Even the heelless shoe
is now worn by women who lead in fash
ion. Tennis shoes with fiat feels and
flexible rubber soles either in white buck
skin or canvas or in black or tan or gray
leather, are worn for many occupations
beside tennis playing. For walking and
general outing wear as well as for morn
ing street wear they are not at all un-
usual. And low-heeled pumps or slippers
strapped or laced over the instep are
gaining favor for afternoon and evening
wear. OF course the high French heel
still has its advocates. and the pointed
toe is too pretty to pass out Of favor, but
at least IL you choose to be very COM
Portable in your footwear you will have
precedent among a few Of TIP most fash
lonable women.
Frances Marshall will be glad to an
swer in this column any question con-
cerning household subjects.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
HINTS ABOUT TABLE LINEN.

The careful housekeeper may at this
time Of year, which is rather destructive
to fine table linen, try several expedi-
ents which will save II much wear and
tear II one has attractive embroidery to
display beneath. a glass-topped dining
table Is always good to have. but II the
table is OF fine wood. a very artistic ef-
feet may be obtained by using runners OF
white or Holland linen, which may be
crossed in the center of the table. These.
with some dainty doilies. make an am
pie and attractive table covering for
breakfast and luncheon, and are very
easily laundered-
White paper or Japanese cotton crepe
napkins may also be used with great ad-
vantage for the fruit course. especially at
breakfast. when juicy fruit is generally
used. This makes cutie a saving. as fruit
stains are so destructive to fine napery.
Economy may also be displayed in the
dinner cloth. The small table cloths with
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
CcoyTisht. lslL.l

Copyright. 1slt.)
It seems to be the fashion this summer
10 inveIgh against the prevailing mode
Could anything be more unbecoming
more immodest, less practical or more un'
comfortable than the clothes we wear,
or the clothes that fashion bids US wear
Almost every woman has asked this ques-
tion recently. But the situation is not q
new one. No one usually has kind
word for the men and women who make
the styles
You read the fashion news with conster-
nation and you scan the pictures Of the
new French creations with righteous IN
dignation. They are actually wearing
pantalettes in Paris, you read and you
wonder seriously whether your dressmak-
er will advocate them for your next
gown. Green and purple and pink wigs
were the rage a few weeks ago, and many
persons wondered whether they were go
ing to be the accepted mode.
But as a matter of fact colored wigs
and pantalettes and the other freaks OF
fashion are merely the diversion Of wom-
en- who have more money than good
sense, and more time to spend than ways
to spend It. Don't be alarmed, therefore,
about the fashions. They are as sane as
they have ever been. The only dif1er-
ence is that cable and telegraph have
made it possible for you to hear more
about these things. =
As a matter Of fact women have never
been able to dress so comfortably and at
the same time so fashionably before since
clothes became the fashion-or, at least
since corsets were invented. Anything
less than a normal waistline is decidedly
out Of style. Recent efforts to reintro-
duce the tight waist met with instant
failure even in perverted Paris We no
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20

all her old friends were dead and she
was forced to accept the hospitality of
a poor actors home on Long Island.
New York. Yet during the zenith Of
her brilliant career she had been the
guest Of kings and princes, and the re-
cipient of many princely gifts. But
somehow she mismanaged her affairs
and in the end she was forced to sell
all her jewels and her wardrobe, which,
at one time was the most valuable ward
robe possessed by any actress in the
world. had to be sold to pay her debts
A few years before her final mis-
fortunes she said when peaking Of her
jewels: Each jewel has a history of
honors in various parts Of the world
and many are the reminders OF the hap
py nights when emperors sent for me
to visit them in their supper rooms, which
are attached to the royal boxes. I. was
on such an occasion that the late EN-
peror of Russia honored me with a gold
diadem containing a solitaire of i'm
mense size. The fine rubies that i have
had, came also from Russia, having been
a souvenir from the Grand Duchess
Helen. Ny parure of turquoise and
pearl was also a gift from Russia My
emeralds were from the Grand Duchess
Helen I had many beautiful saphires.
Some Of these came from the Grand
Duke of Mecklenburg."
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20

slice or two is a delightful adjunct to q
glass of iced tea or diluted fruit sirup.
Cold drinks should not be taken in
large amounts or taken too fast: other
wise the stomach may be suddenly d.
lated and an attack of illness follow. A
good rule to prevent excessive thirst is
to drink plenty of fiuid the first thing in
the morning. which cleanses the body of
irritating toxins that cause excessive
thirst. Also eat an abundance OF sea-
sonable fruit The following are some de-
licious and healthful drinks:
Strawberry Nectar.
Cut fine Strawberries in small pieces
and sweeten with powdered sugar. Fill
the goblet quarter full of this fruit and
fill with plain or aerated iced water. A
slice of lime may be added to this.
Raspberry Vinegar.
Pour one quart Of wine vinegar over
three Quarts of raspberries. Let it stand
one day, press out the liquid and repeat
operation for three days, when II may
be bottled. 1t may be used with or
without sugar.
Currant Nectar.
Take a quart Of welI-picked currants
and bring to a boil. Press through a
bag and return to fire, adding
a pound Of sugar. Fill goblet a fourth1
full and add cracked ice until full.
AmbrosinI Nectar.
Put equal parts of orange, lemon and
pineapple through the food chopper after
being peeled. To half pint OF the pulp
add a quart of water and strain through
cheesecloth. Chill the liquid and put In
punchbowl. When ready to serve add a
few cubes of pineapple, some berries cut
in halves, and a sprig or two of mint.
Sweeten to taste. A dash OF wine may
be added IL liked.
LHetene. or Artificial RuttermiIk.
This Is decidedly a health beverage, as
the Tactic acid ferment it contains acts
as a prophylactic against the putrefactive
bacteria The tablets may be purchased
at any drug store and contain full direc-
tions for making. This is more nutritious
than buttermilk, as II is made OF whole
milk.
SIssissippi Traveller.
Squeeze half a lemon over two tea
spoonfuls Of sugar Add a fresh egg and
a dash OF wine. Put in also two table
spoonfuIs Of water and lemon over two
Of sugar. Put in an eggnog
shaker and shake to a froth. Currant
juice may be substituted for the wine IL
desired, but IL wine is used a good port
Is the best
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
PAGE FOR WOMEN READERSF
DAILY HOROSCOPE.
the stars incline. but DO not compel
MONDAY, july 20, 1914.


Good and I'll balance today. According
TO astroIogy the planets exercise sway
that Is strongly controlled by Saturn In
adverse aspect
The rule is held to be exceedingly un-
fortunate for journeys or removals. II II
not lucky time for any sort Of inltia-
tive.
owing the magnetic power exercised
by Saturn. miners. real estate dealers.
farmers, and an who depend on the
earth for sustenance should be cautious
Old persons are under an especially
sinister influence, which threatens their
health and well-being. They should rest
and avoid worry.
As the rule interferes with concenrra-
ton and has a bad effect upon physical
conditions routine duties should engage
attention while II prevails
The seers believe that new enterprises
begun under this government will last
long enough to cause regret Delays, re-
versals, and limitations Of all sorts are
supposed to be more common than under
better influences
Late in the afternoon II Is read as a
fairly favorable time for asking for In
crease of salary or promotion
There is a sign interpreted as sinister
for women. Loss of prudence and mod
esty is likely TO be emphasized bJ start
ling events in which girls figure! Money
is Hkely TO be sought recklessly In an
classes OF society. This prognostication
is OF special significance to women In
New York and San Francisco, the seers
declare.
There is 4 prophecy that a political
leader will rise where much wheat
grows"
Ancient lore found this aspect lucky for
the hiring OF men servants. BY this sign
the day is auspicious for engaging male
employees OF higher rank.
Remarkable scientific discoveries viii
be announced before autumn. These viii
be helpful in safeguarding life
Persons whose birthdate II IS have
rather unfortunate augury for the year
Those who are employed should be fairly
prosperous.
Children born on this day may be lack
ing in independence and initiative. They
are likely to have retentive memories and
Changeable natures. They may partake
OF the qualities Of Leo as well as Cancer.
Copyright. lsH)
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
FIRST BEAUTY AIDS
FOR SUMMER BURNS
Tested Recipes for Simple Remedies
for the Complexion Which Has
Been Roughened by Exposure
to Sun and Wind.

The bite" of a stifI wind, with driving
rain well ''salted," does not suit all faces
or, rather. skins. Nor does sea water
nor the seaside sun.
Peeled noses, roughened skin. blotChes,
freckIes, faces a vivid red instead OF the
attractive brown-these are some OF the
penalties that tender skins have to pay In
that fortnight by the sea
The sudden transition from, perhaps, an
office to the salt sea and scorching SUM-
will play havoc with your complexion un-
less precautions are taken. Some hints
and simple tested recipes by which. if you
follow them. you may bid defiance to sun.
wind. and water may be welcome
Sea water acts as an astringent tonic
to the skin. 1t tiGhtens il up. But II
should not be allowed to dry on the face.
Let 1t dry and remain in the pores and
the result is blotches or even a form of
eczema
Keep Face Wet.
Keep your face wet while bathing:
sluice it continually. and afterward wash
IL well with fresh water. That may be
a bother IL you don't want TO go back
to your rooms. but why not take sponge
and a bottle of fresh water with you?
Only those who have tried this know how
delightful the face feels afterward.
II the sun reddens your face. as dis
tinct from browning. you must let your
skin acclimatize itself for a couple OF
days. Use a parasol or a wide-rimmed
hat. and don't let the sun strike directly
on your face.
On the third day dab your face with
handkerchief dipped in cream. a spoon
full SKINNED of the milk will do. Don't
dry II: dab IL on, and leave II. At night
rub on a little cold cream-not giycerin
or vaseline An excellent way to apply
the cream is to put some inside banana
skin, and rub it on in that way.
A girl with a splendid complexion cuts
an apple in half every night and gently
messages her face with that. Her com
pIexion may be a natural gift. but the
apple treatment probably has something
to do with II.
A smarting skin after bathing. with or
without roughness and blotchinG. is most
Get a little pure olive
oil and work 1t into your skin with the
finger tips, and then into the sea with
you! No more ymarting.
A peeled nose is not attractive! Fol-
low the same method as indicated above
for reddening. with this addition: Get a
little mutton fat. rub it well in, wipe
gently OF. and then dust over with but
a suspicion of starch powder. This need
be done only for a day or so.
A good blow on a steamer certainly
does one good. but a few get chafed
skin, especially on the cheek bones and
upper parts OF the chin.
II YOU are a sufferer. take with you in
a pill box, a little pad of wadding which
has been dipped in almond oil. Touch
those parts Of your face which catch"
the wind with the pad, and the wind
will not hurt them any more.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
APPROVED USE OF
SUMMER DRINKS
What. When and How to Imbibe in
Warm Weather. When Body Needs
Fluids to Replace Evaporation.

u lNCpldCC
There are many intelligent persons who
do not show much common sense in Sc
lecting the proper beverages for use in
hot weather, and often II they do drink
healthful manner or time in which to
take them. This lack of method in drink
ing in hot weather is conducive Of much
III health, and is especially true Of the
young and thoughtless, who have not
been properly instructed in this respect.
Many adults, however, do not set q
good example in this way. Some persons
drink alcoholic beverages in hot weather,
not thinking that it is like adding fuel to
an already overheated engine; they will
also hurriedly gulp down a glass of ice
cold milk or a plate Of ice cream, not
thinking that the casein or the milk will
Invariably form in hard ourds in the
stomach when so treated. Many attacks
Of acute indigestion are caused in this
way. Milk and ice cream are excellent II
taken slowly and mixed with the saliva
before being swallowed.
There is nothing more necessary or con-
ducive to the health in hot weather than
right drinking, for then TIE body needs
plenty OF fluid to replace evaporation and
10 assist in the proper elimination of
waste material To do this properly the
nuid must be clean and pure and taken
ut the proper time so as not to interfere
with digestion or to cool the body too
suddenly and thus interfere with the cir
eulation.
Are Excellent.
The various root beers and fruit vim
sgars and sirups as well as the delicious
termented milk drinks are excellent
Arinlrs when made Of good materials and
Derved in a sanitary manner. They are
20 easily made at home that every house.
keeper should prepare a supply in sea-
BON. They also have the advantage of
leing free from adulteration or contain
nation as well as being served at the
right temperature.
When fruit sirups are not clean and
pure they ferment in the stomach. They
should be made of perfect fruit and pure
Iugar, and served from scrupulously
siean glasses. The sirups from leftover
banned or preserved fruits make an ex-
seIlent foundation for these healthful
Irinks especially when combined with a
title citrIc acid, which gives them a
DIeasant acid taste and helps to preserve
hem.
Iced tea and coffee are good IL taken in
moderation, but taken in excess they are
INJURIOUS, as teR contains tannin. which
las an astringent effect on the lining of
he stomach. slowing the digestion, and,
soffee contains caffeine, which is a de-
hded heart stimulant. Both make a good
rubstitute for the hot beverage at meal
time. but should not be taken too cold.
Lemons and lines make a pleasant and
aealthful beverage when combined with
ne sub-acid fruits especially. When their
nices are taken too strong they may ir-
htate the lining Of the stomach. but a
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
! Doir,ss Of Society !;


The President. contrary to his usual
habit, did not go TO church yesterday
as he Ii stu feeling the effects Of the
cold contracted last Wednesday He
went for a motor ride by the advice OF
his physician, and is reported as greatly
improved by the comparative rest he has
enjoyed In the last two days. Mrs. VIII
son has also improved sufficiently to take
an occasional short motor ride.
Mr. and Mrs. Montgomery Blair were
among the dinner hosts at the Point
Judith Club, Narragansett Pier. on Sat
urday evening. following the opening Of
the polo games.
Mrs. Robert Mccormick. who Is estab-
lished for the summer In one Of the Pi-
nard cottages at Newport, will entertain
this evening at large dinner party.
Mr.. and Mrs. Clarke waggaman VIII
sail from New York tomorrow on the
Aquitania, for six weeks absence. most
OF that time will be spent In France.
Mrs. James W. wadsworth. jr., with
her children. has arrived at The Fells,
Lake Sunapee. n. H.. to pass the sum-
mer. The Fells was the summer home
Of Mrs Wadsworth's parents the late
Secretary Of State and Mrs. John Hay.
Mrs. Jessie Lincoln Beckwith Is one of
the notable hostesses at Manchester, VT,
where she and her children are with
Robert Lincoln. at the latters summer
home. Mrs. BeckwIth gave a large din
ner party Saturday evening.
Mr.. and Mrs. William SchaIl. jr.. and
family. who returned from Europe on
the Vaterland, went at once to their
place at New London. where they have
Just announced the engagement Of their
daughter. Miss Margaret Schall. to Mr.
Robert n. Stafford. Of New York The
wedding will take place in September
Col. and Mrs. Archibald Hopkins. who
have been making a series Of visits in
New England, are now the guests On
Mr. and Mrs. John Hays Hammond, at
East Gloucester.
Miss Ethel Noyes. who passed the
early summer with her parents at their
suburban nome. has gone TO the Adj
rondacks, where she is the guest OF Mr..
and Mrs. Thomas Blagden at their camp
on the Upper Saranac Lake. The en-
gagement OF Miss Soyes TO Thomas
Blagden, r. was announced last month.
Mrs. David D. Porter. who is leaving
Washington in the next few days for At
Iantic City. will pass the remainder OF
the summer at that resort, and in the
autumn join Mai. Porter in Philadelphia.
where he is now stationed on recruiting
duty.
Mr.. and Mrs s A Reeves and family
are at Bedford Springs, Pa. where Mrs-
Reeves and children will remain for the
rest Of the summer.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
TO WASH AN E1DERDowN QUILT

Make lather with hot water and soap
and add little liquid ammonia.
Steep the quilt in this for ten minutes,
then squeeze well and work with the
hands in ths water,til perfectly clean.
You may have the use Of several lots Of
suds, but this, OF course, depends upon
how dirty the quilt is.
Rinse in two warm waters, in which
there is a little ammonia.
Lift from the water, squeeze as much
water as possible out by hand. II you
pass II through the wringer, you risk
bursting the quilt.
When this is finished, hang it in the air
to dry, shake occasionally. and when
quite dry beat smartly with cane carpet
beater Of light, sound cane, to separate
the down.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20

a band Of hemstitching are not only very
elegant in appearance, but take very lit
tie time to launder.
An odd and dainty appearance Is given
the breakfast or luncheon table by the
use Of the Bulgarian table cloths and dol
lies. which come in such gay and attrac-
tive cOlors and patterns. These are OF
great use, especially in the nursery. for
dining purposes The Bulgarian china
NAV also be had TO match them In color.
and they are much enjoyed By the chill
dren
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
GIRDLEs AND BELTS.

Wide girdles OF soft colored satin are
worn with white frocks of batiste or book
muslin. These girdles are shirred or
gathered into corselet effect Another
fancy is a sash of white silk braid with
border Of Roman stripe. These are very
smart with white cloth suits. Elastic
worsted belts fastened with buckles are
worn with sporting clothes, and for the
same purpose are wide suede belts fin
ished with patent leather.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20

tailor gown of black liberty with French
blue plumes In her hat. A very smart
tailor gown Of navy serge had saffron
revers to the loose coat and was worn
with a small hat garlanded with blue and
yellow flowers; and extremely effective
was big mantle of ivory cloth with
black velvet incroyabIe collar, over a
black charmeuse gown, and a black
toQue with white plumes.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
HOUSEHOLD NOTES.

II your blue serge suit wears shiny,
renovate it in the following way: Make
a very strong blue water. sponge the ma
terial with it, allow to dry slightly,
spread on an ironing board, cover with
a piece of muslin and press with hot iron.
When sweeping a room, dust can be
prevented from rising by dipping a news
paper in salt water, tearing it up in
small pieces and scattering them over the
carpet. This not only causes the absorp-
tion of the dust but brightens the color
of the carpet.
In stitching seams cut on the bias, al
ways begin at the widest end. Keep the
garment as fiat as possible, and do not
let IL fall over the edge Of the table. This
prevents dragging. Also use as small a
stitch as the thickness of the material
will allow.
When the roast is small, II Is best to
start It on top Of the stove. Heat the
pan very hot. put the roast in and turn
1t frequently, as you would If panning a
steak. The quick soaring holds the Juices
in When It is thoroughly brown all over,
place it In hot oven to finish
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20

A white lining or enamel finish on the
inside Of refrigerator is sanitary, and
looks more cfeanly than dark zinc. One
can make the inside Of an old refriger-
ator spotless, by applying two or three
coats Of white bathtub enamel. All
grease must be wiped from the lining,
and each coat applied very evenly, and
allowed to dry before the next is put on.
This may be washed with water, when
necessary.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20

Flowers may be more gracefully ar.
ranged to stand upright in wet sand than
m water. When using a dish or vase
that is not transparent, try this method.
which is said by some to keep flowers
better than in water alone. A few bios
SONS may be arranged most effectively
with the aid of small holders Of glass or
metal. consisting Of open rings or holes
In which each stem Will stand erect.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
LATEST IDEAS In
FRENCH FASHIONS

Paris. July 19.-Young girls are wearing
white and light tints, and several in the
dainty ''Trianon" shepherdess frocks
have been seen.
At a bazaar last week one who might
have stepped out of an eighteenth CEN
tury picture was seen, though she was
not supposed to be in fancy dress. Her
white taffeta skirt, short, plain and rath-
er full, was surmounted with bodice and
tucked-up panniers Of delicate bun
ground taffetA, printed with tiny flowers
in chene colors: and with q dainty lace
fichu and elbow friIls.
Her bergere hat, outlined with little
wild flowers, was raised high on a cache
peigne Of poppies, and white stockings,
black velvet shoes with red heels, and
one of the new tall canes tied with rib
bons completed a really charming en-
semble.
The Washington herald., 1914-07-20
A SWEEPING HINT.

For sweeping a room neatly there Is
nothing like a newspaper aid Take
page Of newspaper or other convenient
naner wet in hot water and squeeze un-
iii IL ceases 10 drip Tear into pieces the
size Of ones hand. cast them all over the
carpet then sweep and most OF the dust
in the room. il you use your broom Ju-
diciousIy. will be gathered into the pa
pers. After a velvet or other heavy piie
Garnet is thoroughly swept, sponsins
with ammonia and water will preserve
its brightness wonderfully.
Aiming this wears graduates at welles-
r,,, I,oUsga sixteen are engaged to marry.
Nearly ZOO women and girls are EN-
,Io,-c5 IN the textile trade in Philadelphia