The Birmingham age-herald., 1914-07-05
Dress for the Stout and Sedate.
By JANE BARTON.

any of the Swisses in darker tones will prove most serviceable.
 For afternoon and evening dresses voile. batiste, silk null, dotted swiss, and certain of the silk and cotton fabrics that are cling ing and soft will prove useful and becoming. The nets and all over shadow lace in small design also possible for her, but warn you all such sheer materials will soon wear into holes under the arms and over the hips or wherever there is the least strain, so do not put too much money into them.
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 As this figure looks at it's best in black. nothing is more useful for summer evenings than a low necked black dress of lace crepe de chine or net. The black cotton goods soon turn rusty As the stout woman feels the heat, there are many evenings when it will be a great boon to jump into gown of this sort that does not require fussing with one's lingerie. Of course may use a half worn party dress, provided it is not too warmly lined, but the better plan is to make simple gown cut with a straight, slightly gathered skirt, and surplice kimono bodice cut in a modest V front and back and with loose sleeves dropping at the back and just turn ing the curve of the elbow in front. Join at the waist line and cover with ribbon girdle. Wide lace founcing can be bought in the 
 into a gown. It is useful without lining to be worn over separate princess slips. Make these slips of thin china silk or the colored ones may even be of silk null.
 I disapprove of shortening the lines of the stout woman by tunics, but if you must have one choose the new Russian form and make it an inch or two longer than is worn by the slender woman. graceful, simple tunic frock to be worn over white or colored slip can be made of white cotton net tucked in half inch lengthwise tucks their own width apart. These are fitted close over the hips to avoid bunchiness and end eight inches above the bottom of the tunic. This may either be finished with a machine hem stitched hem or can be trimmed with Cluny or Irish lace edging four inches deep. put on without fullness. If desired. this tunic can be three inches shorter In front and slope to the back The slanting line is rather be- coming.
 The bodice may be cut on raglan lines slightly crossing in front and back to form a shallow V. or it can be made with the long shirred seam from the shoulder line to the end of the ball sleeve, which ends above or below the elbow as preferred. and five quar- ter inch tucks sloping from the seam both on fronts and at the back. Trim the end of the sleeves as is the bottom of the tunic. The top of the blouse may be finished in an inch wide box plating of the net or may be more becoming and easier to launder with inch hem machine hsmstitched. This can be used even when the lace trimming is preferred elsewhere.
 Contrary to usual opinion, the soft, rather broad crush girdle is more becoming to the stout than narrow hard waist line that emphasiZes hips
 Such a model is good for black net or one of the fine white O colored voies. If pre- ferred instead of wearing with the silk sep arate slip. the entire frock may be made, using foundation skirt of the net finished at the bottom with a five inch henstitched hem Where lace trimmed. half inch in sertion to match can be set above this hem without unduly shortening the lines. By the way, never wear short skirts. Let them just clear the ground. and whenever possible short train.
 Here are some things to avoid in choosing your patterns
 Tunics, especially those with an excessive nare-happily the greatly beruffied ones are already past their first favor. The long Rus sian tunic is permissible.
 Bustle and pannier effects. Much plating, save in soft materials, where the long mar row tuck CT box plait is not bad if well fitted over the hip. Accordion plating is some times becoming. but not serviceable.