New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-07-26
ORIGIN AND USE OF
THE HANDKERCHIEF
Interesting Facts in the History
of That Useful Adjunct
TO Mans Dress.

On January ., 1885, Louis XVI, at the
instance OF Queen Marie Antoinette,
issued an edict decreeing that the
length of handkerchiefs shall equal
their breadth henceforth throughout
the kingdom" Although this edlct
would seem finally TO have determined
custom throughout the civilized world
as to the future shape of useful arti-
Gle. handkerchiefs themselves are Of
ancient origin, having, it is said, been
first used by the Persisns, in the shape
of a small silk square, inditferently as
napkin or sudary for the heated brow.
3 The invention passed 10 the Greeks.
from whom, by way Of Rome, it spread
slowly throughout Europe. Not. how
ever. until snuff-taking came into vogue
was the handkerchief in general put to
its present use, being, until that eDoch,
employed mostly by the wealthy and
noble-born for divers purposes, among
others as a lady's favor TO be worn by
the gallant in his hat.
Naturally handkerchiefs kept pace
with other extravagances in dress,
being oftentimes edged with costly lace
and embroidered with initials, armorlal
bearings. love notices and sundry IN
renious designs those, for instance, OF
the Duchess of Chevreuse being worked
with cupids pursuing one another amid
r Of boil n
tied with mauve-colored ribbon.
adorned the handkerchiefs of La Grande
Mademoiselle. the niece of Louis XIII,
while the colors of the Comtesse de
Castielones corresponding on all oc-
casions TO those of her carriers
changed with every passing mood and
DaSSion. Thus, when she tancled ner-
self in love, garters and handkerchlefs
were blue. but if the subject OF her
wayward affection were suspected OF
infdelitv. azure was discarded for yell
low. which she retained until her nat
urally buoyant spirits, having eXor-
cised the demon Of jealousy, demanded
the substitution of green, as betoken-
ing exuberant gayety and rude health.
4 Times there were, of course, when even
the volatile optimism Of this butterfly
became depressed, and then the shape
4 ~ legs were encircled with mauve gar
tiers. and from the listless hand can
eled a handkerchief of like tint.
Jewels, as might have been expected,
entered largely into the decorative
schemes employed on these delicate
samples of lace work. Nine. du Barry
! owned a handkerchief on which her
name was embroidered in precious
stones, while pearls to the value OF
/ o. n
precious lace in the posses sion Of the
. Inflated Marie Antonette, whose friend,
the equally hapless Nine. de Lamballc,
owned a similar superfuity for 10
what practical use could such himsy
extravaganza have ever been put?
formerly the property of the Pompa-
dour. with the name of that lady's
roval lover worked in diamonds. More
valuable, however, than these Is
handkerchief owned by Queen Mar
gherita Of Italy a unique specimen
of fifteenth century lace valued at
$1,000.
Even as of old. handkerchiefs. as We
have already noted, were utilized in
other ways to what we now consider
normal. so in comparatively recent,
and even present, days they have been
adapted TO some passing vogue or hu-
NOR. As propagators Of general knowl-
edge they were employed during tic
reign of Queen Anne 10 carry the text
of her majesty's speech TO Parliament,
on April g, 1910. which was printed
upon their surface. into the homes OF
many who would otherwise have re-
NAMED IN blissful ignorance. In like
manner were circulated the announce
ments OF the Treaty Of Utrecht and of
Marlborough's victories over tho
French. In l745 handkerchefs stamped
with the portraits of the young pre-
tenders leading adhcrents were IS
used with q view TO facilitating the
capture Of the rebels an eyentuali.y
which. if dependent on the reser1-
blance of the portraits TO the originals,
must have been only Of rare happening.
In retaliation the Stuart party printed
other handkerchicfs, that the rough
likeness Of George H.. depicted there
on. might be put to ignoble use.
Some seven years back the officers
Of one of our volunteer battalions
were supplied with handkerchiefs on
which were set forth full instructions
70 meet any sudden emergency that
might occur. together with hints on
first aid: while not long previously
certain regiments in the French army
were supplied with like necessaries. on
which not only could be read sanitary
hints and precepts that might prove OF
use in campaign, but pictures of
officers wearing the uniforms of differ
ent grades could be studied, so that the
recruit might tell at n glance 10 what
rank any superior belonged. During
the Franco German War. too, there
were issued to the Prussian troops
handkerchicfs on which were printed
accurate maps Of that portion Of the
cnemy's country that had been marked
out for invasion.
Instances OF pictorial handkerchiefs,
indeed. might be multiplied almost in.
dednitely.TLondon-Globel