davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

- UST inside the Golden Gate q
vast army of worKmen IS rush.
ing to completion the huge ex-
hibit palaces Of Americas Pana-
ma canal celebration, the Panama-Pa-
cifc International Exposition In San
Francisco in 1915. Many of the most
celebrated architects, sculptors and
artists In the United States co-operated
In the design of the marvellous exposi-
ton city upon the shores Of San Fran
cisco bay. As an inspiration they had
before them the greatest engineering
work in the history Of the world-the
Panama canal--and in the completion
Of the canal they saw the final result
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

Of the effort Of centuries to secure a
passageway between the oceans.
As the Exposition assumes form the
wonders that the architects dreamed
Of become vivid and tangible. A city
Of palaces facing north upon San
Francisco harbor is rising against the
walls of the hills that embrace the Ex-
position site upon the south, east and
west. When completed in 1914, months
before the opening Of the Exposition,
1t will be found that the majority Of
the Exposition palaces are united into
one enormous structure, with its out
side walls as high as the average six
story city block and with its golden
towers and minarets rising to heights
of ITO, $50. $50 and 43O feet. Eight Of
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01
By HAMILTON WRIGHT

the main exhibit buildings will form
parts Of huge group surrounding the
three principal courts. They will rep
resent in conception stupendous orr
entail bazaar, similar in form to the
bazaars of the east, at Constantinople,
Damascus or Cairo. The roofs of the
buildings will be colored reddish
pink, like Spanish tile, and will be
spread over the mile long group of the
main exhibit buildings extending along
the blue waters Of the bay. Wonder
full groups of statuary will tell the
story of the Panama canal.
The site of the Exposition covers
635 acres on San Francisco harbor A
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

more impressive locarlon for a great
maritime celebration could not have
been chosen. The Exposition city will
face north upen the stream Of traffic
that passes through the western portal
Of America. On the south, east and
west rise the hills Of San Francisco,
like the walls of vast amphitheater.
On a tree lined esplanade along the
harbor's edge visitors will view great
maritime pageants by day. BY night
a series of marvellous Examinations
proceeding from great batteries Of col
ored searchlights will turn the EXPOSE
ton city into fairyland
Eleven huge exhibit palaces are
under construction at this writing,
and many other enormous structures
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

Miss Gertrude Maloy of Bridge
port was shopping in town Tues
day.
Tom Vaughn, of Concord, spent
first Of the week with friends and
relatives in and near Newport.
Mrs. B. B. Presley and children
of Asheville, N. c., are visiting rel
atives in Newport.
Gus Mason of Crestmont, spent
the holidays with relatives in anC
NEAR Newport.
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

For mild, easy action of the
bowels, try Doan's Regulets,
modern laxative. 25c at all stores.
adv.
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

DR.. David Seay, of Parrottsville,
will move to this town this week,
where he will resume the practice
of medicine. He will use room
over Smiths Drug store for his
office.
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

HOUSEKEEPERS are Saving
More Dollars. A New Economy.
A new way has been discovered
for making an article of daily use
in every household by every
member of the family. Write for
particulars.-R. H. DeFrese, Bris-
tol, Tenn. lO-23-t.
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

Heavy, impure blood makes a
muddy, pimply complexion, head
aches, nausea, Indigestion. Thin
blood makes you weak, pale and
sickly. For pure blood, sound di-
gestion, use Burdock Blood Bit
tiers. $1.00 at all stores. adv.
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01

The new coats show deep Jokes lap
ping downward and wedge shaped
fronts tapping leftward. This coat,
made by famous Partisan tailor, is
in Tapped effect and is of leather
brown duvetyn with skunk fur trim
mings.
The Newport plain talk. (Newport, Tenn.) 1909-1939, 1914-01-01
WAN

Xxxx><Xx><xxxxxx x><x><>(><><>Cx<>[x
Advertisements taken for this col
umn at One Cent per word, minimum
charge 25 cents
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

space at the center back. down the
center Of which was made full length
closing, the Tapped edges being held by
buttons and button-hoIes. The little
coat extended just to the waist line and
was Of serge with satin sleeves. the
skirt being all serge.
For afternoon and evening dresses,
the cry is all lace. lace houncing Of
all widths and lace treated in almost
every known way. A very beautiful
gown adapted to formal afternoon
occasions is made Of the soft liberty
satin that promises to be such
favorite and deep Aouncing of net
with an embroidered border. The
skirt is Just the familiar narrow one
in two pieces and the bodice is in the
plain kimono style that is always
pretty, the edges open for few inches
at the front. Over the skirt is a long
straight, gathered tunic Of the embroid-
cred net and at the waist line is ar
ranged a sash Of vide velvet ribbon.
This sash is passed around the waist,
crossed at the back. brought back to
the front and looped well below the
hip line. Above the edge Of the girdIe
portion is a double frill Of plain net
that extends well up the corsage.
There is little chemisette Of embroid-
cred net but the open neck is finished
with graduated friIl Of plain net
double and the same material finishes
the long sleeves. At each wrist, a
wide frill is arranged over the sleeve
edges, one portion extending over the
hands, the other up over the sleeves.
and at the center is band Of narrow
velvet ribbon terminating in a fat
pump bow. At the front of the bodice.
there is strip Of this same velvet
ribbon passing over the chemisette
and apparently holding the edges Of
the bodice in shape, and this strip ter
inmates in little loops and handsome
jewelled buttons The color Of the silk
is pale yellowish green and the net
is soft creamy white.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

with sleeves. Arrange the right sides
together, the single notches in the
fronts and the double notches in tbs
back meeting and the edges exactly
together, and haste carefully. Stitch
and turn the seams up under the yoke
and sleeves and stitch the second time
on the right side just one-eighth Of an
inch from the edges to make a firm
finish.
Close the under-arm and sleeve
seams by first taking up the narrovest
possible seam on the right side, then
turning and sewing the wrong side on
the marked outline Of the pattern. II
you are making the long sleeves, gather
the sleeves between the double crosses
Cut lining for the cuffs exactly like the
outside and seam one long straight
edge Of each lining and each cuff to-
gether and join the ends. Then turn
on the long seam and baste.
Seam the cuffs to the sleeves, seams
meeting; stitch and fell the lining over
the seams. If you are making three
quarter sleeves, cut bands three inches
wide the exact size Of the sleeves and
join the ends; then seam to the sleeves
with the seams on the right side and
with the seams Of the bands and the
seams Of the sleeves meeting. Turn up
over the sleeves and stitch into place
one-eighth inch within the edge.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

Of blue gabardine with black liberty
satin that unquestionably bore the
stamp Of Paris and Paris at recent
date and, consequently, is interesting.
The skirt was perfectly plain. laid in
fat plaits of about an inch and one
half in Width which we're stitched
down over the hips and pressed below
that point. The bodice was a varia-
ton Of the. basque extending over the
upper edges of the skirt but only to the
line Of the hips. The back was per-
fectly plain, the fronts plain over the
shoulders but cut with long extern
sions to form a sash that draped the
figure becomingly and were carried
around to the back, crossed and
brought back to the front to be tied
in bow at the left side. The sleeves
were1ong and plain, of the blue gabar-
dine and the faring, Normandy collar
was Of white organdie with plain edges.
The sleeves, however, Aared at the
wrists and extended almost to the
knuckles where they were finished with
scaIloped bands Of the black liberty.
In the letter Of last week, it was
stated that, while long coats were to
be much worn. short ones were likely
to appear in combination with TUNES
and with plated skirts. Whether or
not the war scare has to do with the
fact, great many fashionable women
have already returned from abroad
and, as a matter Of course, are to be
met at the leading restaurants. At
The Ritz today was worn street gown
Of midnight blue serge also combined
with black charmeuse and the fact
that two costumes Of the sort should
be seen. within such a short space Of
time goes to indicate that the costume
will be "a favorite one. Since this COS
tune also showed variation Of the
plated skirt, it seems to indicate that
tendency also. In this instance, there
was broad box plat at the center
front and there were backward-turning
plaits at each side but a narrow plain
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30
LATEST FASHION NOTES
FROM THE FASHION CENTERS

THIS coming autumn. we may look
for long coats Of the redingote order.
but short coats also will be worn with
long TUNES and some Of the shrewdest
designers claim that the long coats Of
the redingote order will be shortened
as time advances. There is a theory
that women will not give up the COM
Portable freedom found in the clothing
of light weight and that the coat that
drags or is heavy is hardly likely to
gain any great following. But such
reasoning produces theories only. 1t is
true that women do require greater
comfort than they once knew, but any
enc who has watched the ease With
which they adapt themselves to new
styles and readily become converted
from one idea to another will feel little
doubtful Of the criticism Of any gar
ment that bears Fashions approval
1t is pretty well understood that the
fare. whether produced by the coat or
the tunic, will be feature Of the fall
but. while this is true, there already
have appeared great many plated
skirts and plated skirts with short
coats that give long slender lines, so
that, with a fair amount of assurance,
we may look for variety and the oppor-
tunity for choice that affords the best
opportunity for distinction.
Ordinarily summer weather on this
side Of the sea absolutely forbids any
reproduction Of fashions which demand
anything heavier than the thinnest
summer fabrics but this season has
brought about an unusual condition.
Paris suffered so. severely from cold
during the regular racing season that
velvet was the chosen material with
which to exploit the newest designs
and our own weather has been so phe-
nomenally cool that silks and satins and
serges have oeen comfortable while ordi-
narily we would be demanding organdie
or other diaphanoYs stuffs.
At nearby fashionable resort the
other afternoon was seen a costume
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

Line the collar with a very thin
batiste cut exactly like the outside and
seam the outer edges together; turn
over on the seam and haste very closely
and carefully. Arrange the collar in
side the blouse with the right side Of the
collar on the wrong side of the blouse.
center backs and notches exactly meet
ing, and seam the collar to the blouse:
then fell the lining over the seam.
Gather the blouse on the perforationS
at the waist line and adjust on the
wearer. Pass a narrow belt around
the waist and arrange the fulness be-
comingly. If these seems a little too
much blouse, slip the belt up a littls
over the gathers; if deeper blouse
would be becoming, draw the blouse
up a little above the belt. Then pin
the belt into place, remove the blouse
from the wearer and stitch carefully.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

treaty seems as e there were no limit
to be set TO the variations Of the tWo-piece
skirt. This one shows fuIlness at the
upper edge arranged to give the effect
Of box plaits while the shaped circular
hounce renders it entirely new and indi-
vidual. Besides being smart and in
every way desirable, the skirt Is so simple
that any home idressmaker can make it
without dificulty. There are only two
seams and the fared founce is arranged on
indicated lines. In the picture, one ma
terial is used throughout but something
more Of a tunic effect could be obtained
BY facing the skirt with a contrasting
material under and below the founce and,
If combination is desirable, such sug
kestion may prove helpful Skirts Of the
lind will be worn with coats upon the
street and also with blouses within doors.
For the medium size, the skirt will
require 4 yds. Of material 4 yds. Of ma
terial II, Az yds. 80, ~ or so in. wide.
The width at the lower edge y ~ yds.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

The double coat makes an exceedingly
interesting feature Of autumn styles. I'm
doubtedly it owes its inspiration to the
cape yet it is distinctly ayeoat and one
that will be found very generally be-
coming. This model is exceedingly simple
to make since the sleeves are in the Jap
anese style and the various pieces can be
put together without difficulty. In the
picture, only the collar is of a contrasting
material but this is season when we will
see great many combinations Of silk
with wool, and OF plain material with
fancy material and a quite different and
equally handsome effect could be obtained
by making the under coat Of one material
while the over coat and vest portions are
Of another, wearing the cost with a tuDic
skirt treated in a similar way.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30
BASQUES MAKE A
FEATURE OF THE
NEW BoDIcEs
Over Waists and Over Waist
Effects are Conspicuous.

IT is doubtful If there is any garment
Of greater interest at change
Of seasons than is the bodice or
waist. Here is a group Of most
attractive ones, all Of which are new
and smart and which can be utilized
a. parts Of autumn costumes or for
wear with separate skirts. Besides
being a season Of exceptional interest
in matters Of design, fabrics are Won
derfully beautiful and wonderfully
varied, so that this opening autumn
presents an unusual opportunity.
Undoubtedly, we shall wear a great
deal Of velvet as trimming in combina-
ton with plain silks and with wool
materials. There is so much OF the
over-blouse effect to be noted that the
season seems an especially interesting
one for the woman Of economical ten
denotes, for such bodiees always lend
themselves to remodelling with excep-
tional success.
Then, too. the basque has taken on
most attractive features and this is
one Of the best. Besides being new and
smart, it can be worn over any plated
skirt. fulfskirt, or rufied skirt to make
an entire new costume and such COM
binations as an accordion plated skirt
Of chiffon or crepe de chine with
bodice of charmeuse satin or taffeta,
or a skirt that is rufled with lace with
a satin basque will be among the
smartest Of all things. Accordion
plating is in the height of style and
every woman knows how easy it is to
provide an accordion plated skirt.
Worn with basque of satin or later
Of velvet, it would make one Of the
handsomest costumes possible. To
give very dainty touch. the faring
collar could be Of sheer, white organdie
with little bits of hand embroidery in
the points.
In the center Of the group is a real
over-blouse that is designed to match
or to harmonic with the skirt with the
bodice beneath of organdie, crepe de
chine or some similar material.
Above are two simulated over
blouses; that is to say, there are two
blouses. each made of two materials
so handled as to give the over-blouse
effect. For these, such small pieces
Of material are required that they seem
to have been designed for the making
over that so often really means the
making Of new things from old.
Down in the extreme left hand. cor
ner, there is dainty surplice blouse
that is made Of bordered net over
chiffon. 1t consists Of only two
straight pieces Tapped at front and
back and can be made in such a few
moments that it will often prove a
real friend in need. This season long
sleeves are the preferred ones and
these with the frilIs over the hands
and bands Of velvet ribbon are charm
ing, but Fashion is generous in the
matter Of sleeves and they can be
cut of to shorter length if, for any
reason. such shortening is advisable.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

this pattern with its new and becoming
collar is one of the best to be found.
You can make it from crepe de chine
or other soft silk for a really dressy
afternoon blouse, or you can make it
from cotton crepe, wolfe or some similar
material for just useful one. Also you
can make it all of one material or with
the collar Of contrasting color. this
latter combination being an exceed
ingIy fashionable one. The separate
blouse of colored linen, batiste or wolfe
is much worn and white collars give
a very dainty touch at the same time
that they are very generally becoming.
This model consists of just FIVE
pieces. In the diagram they are all
laid out upon material forty-four
inches wide which is folded length
wise. and J yards will be required
The yoke with sleeves, however, can
not be cut from a single width and.
therefore, must be pieced on the dotted
lines and the little piece marked with
IA. ''Piecing for sleeve" is to be
joined to the sleeves to give the re-
quired width for the long sleeves. the
double As coming together. If short
sleeves are to be used. only little
portion of the piecing will be needed
since the sleeve is to be cut of on the
line of perforations; but. in either
case, the straight edges must be joined
as the first step.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30
~ E|
PROBLEMS IN DRESSMAKING
The New Blouse with Gladstone Collar
By MAY MANTON

As the,6rst step in making. turn the
edges Of the fronts under on the per-
forations, turn the seam allowance
under for inturns, and stitch the hens
into place. Then cut strips Of the ma
terial as wide as the hem with a seam
allowance on each edge and under-face
the front edges above the hens, taking
care to make the widh exactly that
Of the hens.
Now gather the upper edges Of the
blouse, fronts and backs. between the
double crosses and join to the yoks
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

las the pattern is laid out here, the
material is supposed to be white French
crepe and the collar and cuffs are Of the
same. II you should want to make the
collar Of a different material from the
blouse, you would of course cut it
from the special material but it would
be laid on the cloth in Just the same
way.
First, mark all around the pattern
with tailor's chalk and mark the per-
forations and the notches as must be
done in the case of every garment.
Then cut the material out, allowing
three-eighths Of an inch beyond the
marked outline for seams unless the
material trays readily, in which case,
allow one-half inch. Remove the pat
tern and mark the perforations and
notches through to the under side
with tailor's tacks.
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS
s7os Surplice Blouse, "a to u bust.
s374 Gathered Blouse, "a to 20 bust.
s349 Fancy Blouse with Over-Waist.
"a to ~ bust.
s267 Fancy Blouse, "a to ~ bust.
s774 Fancy Blouse. "a to 20 bust.
s35s Basque with Sash Extensions.
"a to A bust.
s57S Fancy Double Coat,
"a to a. bust.
s377 Two-Piece Skirt, ~ to 81 waist.
s34o Fancy Blouse, 81 to ~ bust
s3o7 Yoke Blouse, "a to ~ bust.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-08-30

THIS variation of the japanese
ides-cutting the yoke and
sleeves in one while the blouse
itself Is full and joined to the yoke
10 to be found in the very newest
blouses The model chosen for our
talk is excellent either for the entire
gown or for the separate waist Just
now when there is midsummer leisure
and a great many girls and young
women are planning for their return
to school and college. the separate
waist has an especial interest and
The Alaska citizen., 1914-12-07

of Alaska is painted in differen.
eolors.
Low.grade placer ground and low
grade ores were considered worth
less in Interior Alaska before the
railroad was assured. During the
last summer. however. there has
been much attention paid to quartz
prospects by engineers who have
been attracted here. and II reports
are true. the experts who have been
here this last summer are much en-
Unused with the outlook.
The big deposits Of low grade ore
in the Broad pass region were in
spected by several Fairbanks men
some time ago. before the railroad
was assured, but they finally con-
Guided the ore would not pay Then.
as soon as the government began to
run survey lines past there, other
miners were attracted to Broad pass.
and in the light OF the promised
transportation facilities. the low
grade deposits were more carefully
analysed. with the result that good
profits were promised the locators
there.
More recently report WAS re-
ceived in Fairbanks that another
great ledge of low-grade ore has
been located at Wood River. not
many miles from Fairbanks. On top
Of this has come the assurance that
still another big low grade deposit
is found in the vicinity OF the head
waters Of the Copper river.
The reports about these finds
come from men familiar with the
mining OF low grade quartz. and their
Judgment should be Of much weight.
described. it seems that there is Il
continuation OF great deposits Of
low grade ore following the sum-
nit between the Tanana river and
the coast
Looking at the situation in the
light that it is presented by the
miners who have located claims on
these big low grade ore deposits.
the outlook for mining in Alaska
is wonderfully bright. While I'M
certain prospects Of high-grade ore.
involving small veins, do not quickly
attract investors. big deposits Of
low grade ore, the extent of which
can easily be ascertained, is sure
10 draw capital.
The Alaska citizen., 1914-12-07

Los Angeles is another instance
OF this kind. II is built IA miles in
land and all efforts that were made
to draw the city to the coast to
meet with the water transportation
have been failures. And this was
because it was the first important
trading point in Southern California
It must be remembered that while
the railroad is being built. Fair
banks is certain to be growing at a
rapid rate The government is buy
ing a site for new federal build
ing. which will aid wonderfully in
anchoring the town. The only pos
sible way to keep Fairbanks from
being the distributing center and
metropolis for Interior Alaska for
all time. would be to prevent her
from getting the railroad. and that
seems now to be an impossibility
The safest bet man can make Is
that Fairbanks will always remain
the commercial center Of the Inter