davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21
Whether Deep or Light, Mourning Should Be Sin
cere in Its Expression Of Bereavement Crepe
the Richest and Most Appropriate Trim
ming What Materials May and
Nav Not Be Worn.
Nav Not Be Worn.

ments brought home are not at all
what the personal taste Of the wearer
would have selected. Yet because all
good mourning is expensive. the first
outfit must be worn out before another
may be afforded.
A far better way Is to depend on
the shop where one habitually trades.
Il a charge account is maintained with
one of the big dry goods stores. a
telephone call will bring a special rep
resentative of the mourning depart
ment who will confer with the be-
reaved ones. consult their tastes as
far as they are willing to take up the
subject at this stricken time, jot down
few memoranda, and go back to
her shop capably equipped to send up
mourning raiment that will prove sat
isfactory.
The Prejudice Against Crepe No Lon
ger Prevails.
Many a woman. confronted for the
first time with the necessity of mourn
ing garb for a prescribed period. ex-
claims, shrinkingly: "Oh I cannot
wear crepe. But IL there any real
reason against the wearing of crepe?
1t is the conventional expression OF
bereavement, Tie QlSuAHcu SyhOOA "a
grief: but entirely aside from this. 1t
is the richest and most distinguished
trimming for mourning dress, which
Is always built Of lusterless. dull-fin-
ished stuffs. Crepe gives elegance and
chic to the dull black gown and not
seldom lifts 1t from somber unbecom-
ingness to a becoming grace and dis
tinction. Crepe, to be sure. is ex-
pensive-but it is no more expensive
than any other handsome trimming.
A yard of crepe at So will trim an
entire gown with fiat bands. pipings,
folds and bows and the effect Will be
very rich and beautiful and not at all
gloomy or forbidding as some people
imagine crepe garnishment to be-be-
fore they have found how smart and
becoming a crepe-trimmed gown or
wrap really is An overuse OF crepe
may even imply frivolity-as in
stanced by some Of the French mourn
ing frocks with half-yard deep hens OF
crepe and huge sash bows OF the same
material-and since crepe itself and
not the amount Of It used. Is the sym
| boil Of mourning. a tiny piping along
bodice front is just as deep and sin
cere an expression Of grief as a whole
crepe veil.
The Question OF the ven.
Each woman may decide for her
self what sort OF veil-if any veil
she will wear. But the decision mus1
be made at the beginning. for it is
bad taste to make a radical change
in the style of veil during the first
period Of mourning. The crepe veil
the deepest symbol Of mourning. il
worn by the widow. six months ovel
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21
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night, but almost invariably when
morning comes, overheard they go!
Therefore, knowing that the life of
ones floral offering will be brief. ite
richness and beauty must be governed
by the amount of impression one de-
sires to make upon the recipient The
memory of the lovely gift. of course.
will endure long after the Qualms Of
seasickness and even the voyage itself
have passed.
A typical steamer flower basket is
pictured. This is a gold-tinted wicker
basket heaped with maidenhair fern
and delicate pink roses. The bow OF
ribbon is pink, like the roses. White
wicker baskets filled with vioIets are a
favorite choice for Bon Voyage re-
membranes; and at this season white
wicker receptacles filed with golden.
cleaning jonquils or narcissus are in
stinct with the spirit Of spring.
There are less perishable gifts than
flowers and fruit which make admira-
BILE Bon Voyage remembrances. First
and foremost should come books. A
steamer box of light reading will be
put up and delivered at the dock. by
any good publishing house or book
store. The box usually includes one
or two late novels, a comic weekly.
several new magazines and perhaps q
charming collection OF verse or essays.
A talked-about new novel will be
sure to f1nd q place In steamer trunk
or suitcase, even il there II not oppor-
unity to read it on the voyage, and
she gift will not make a. serious IN
inroad on the giver's pocketbook ~
q basket OF fruit or flowers.
Steamer rugs and chair cushions ere
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21

I" CONVENTIONAL mourning is
simply what has been accepted
by refined and authoritative
~ tastes as the proper expression
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21

folds, like the crepe veil. and after the
first six months may be thrown back.
on the face. Youthful widows have
the veil draped over q brimmed hat of
becoming shape; older women prefer
the close-fitting bonnet or Marie
Stuart Golf with a small point over
the forehead. A crepe. or grenadine
veil. draped over a smartly tilted hat.
or q hat trimmed with any sort of
standing or slanting feather IL in the
worst possible taste.
Women who do not care to wear
the long veil, adopt the yard and a
half or two-yard veil of silk grena-
dine or net. attached around the edge
Of the hat with ends floating loosely
or gathered under q veil pin at the
back of the neck. The heavy net veil
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21

almost-victim Of nal de mer. The So
lacing lemon should not be forgotten.
and cooling hothouse grapes may be
comforting also. Oranges and grape
fruit may be included to add attrac-
tiveness to the basket, though these
fruits will doubtless be supplied am
ply in the dining saloon. If one Is
willing to pay the price. most at
tractive basket will be put up by fruit
erers making a specially OF such things
and one may rest assured that the bas-
ket, its trimming and its contents. will
be of the most recherche character.
Two very attractive fruit baskets.
from one of New York's foremost deal
ers in fancy fruit and groceries. are
pictured. The oblong basket holds the
most fruit though it Is not quite as or
namental as the round basket. which
is Of strawberry red wicker with a
huge ribbon bow in the deep straw
berry shade. The mound Of fruit re-
peats the color note OF basket and
bow in q dozen gradations culminat-
ing with the reddish purple of hot
house grapes on top. The oblong
basket. of cream colored rafha, is
simply trimmed with white perforated
paper. but a big bow Of green ribbon
on the handle adds a festive touch
This green tint is repeated in the
green leaves mixed with the heaped
up fruit in the basket. There are
oranges. tanger1nes. choice apples.
lemons. nectarines. plums and grapes
and among the fruits are tucked small
bottles of olives. sa1ted nuts and pre-
served ginger. In the bottom Of the
basket, under a tray which contains
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21

~ CONVENTIONAL mourning is
simply what has been accepted
by refined and authoritative
~ tastes as the proper expression
of grief in its dignity and sincerity
and as a protection for the bereaved
who for a time, by choice and incli-
nation. dwells in a place apart from
the busy gaieties and pursuits OF the
world at large. There are no hard
and fast rules governing the wearing
of mourning, in this country. as there
are, for instance, in France, where
one offends seriously against conven-
tions by abandoning crepe q month
too soon or dons black and white q
day before tn eallotted time for wear
Ing all black expires
But there are certain unwritten
laws which govern mourning and the
woman whose desire 1t is to dress all
ways correctly and in good taste will
find 1t wisest to abide by them, even
at the sacrifice Of personal prejudices.
Whether one elects to wear deep
mourning or light mourning. the
mourning should be sincere in its ex-
preston Of bereavement. A velvet
hat Is not mourning. though it is
black; neither Is a satin gown: neither
are black lace. Jet. patent leather. nor
ostrich plumes mourning in any sense
of the word, and the combining of
crepe with any Of these materials is
the height of bad taste-a crime of
sartorial incorrectness of which no
woman familiar with the canons Of
good dressing would be guilty.
The Proper Length Of Time For
Mourning Dress
The woman. plunged for the first
time into mourning, is often not a lit
tie puzzled as to what and what not
to wear. She breads making a mis-
take, yet has no knowledge whatever
sources at her command. After a few
months she begins to realize how
many beautiful fabrics, trimmings and
ornaments have been provided for the
wearer Of mourning. and 1t is not un-
usual to see an individual whose first
mourning was severely and monoto-
nously somber. and without distinc-
ton or grace. because its wearer had
no idea what to buy, emerge at the
end Of six months into mourning quite
as deep perhaps, conventionally,
even deeper-yet replete with grace,
chic and distinction.
Very first mourning IL seldom
bought by the woman who is to wear
1t. The bereeved one has no thought
or interest to give to the new. ap-
palling "black" that must be fur
nished perhaps at a moments notice
Some kind friend or relative goes
down town and purchases what seems
necessary to tide over the first few
weeks: and in all probability the gar
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21

Amid the Fruit.
acceptable to the prospective traveller
as yet unsupplied with these COM
forts. A silk umbrella with q hooked
handle which may be held over the
arm while the hands are otherwise en-
gagged. and with hinged attachment
so that 1t may be folded into q trunk.
will be appreciated by any woman who
would really much prefer to leave
her smart, tall-handled umbrella at
home and carry q practical umbrella
of the sort just described on her
travels.
Yachting pillows make acceptable
steamer gifts with their suggestion Of
safety In an emergency. These pil-
lows are really life prsservefs. nlleA
with non-absorbsnt fibre and covered
with Spanish leather. An ordinary
sized square pillow will hold a grown
person up In the water for many hours
and the pillows are also n attxaoe.
i've in appearance with their rich Ooa-
ored leather covers and embossed -.
sign showing yacht emblsmo anA 1noR
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21
BecornInS
EdbPic

The daughter may wear a crepe veil
for her mother; or a mother for her
child, if SO be she inclined: and no
one may criticise the bereaved one
for the length Of time the veil is worn
It is entirely q matter of personal in
clination-after the first year during
which convention DEGREES that the
veil, once assumed, shall be retained.
If a crepe veil is not desired for any
reason, the silk grenadine veil Is the
next heaviest symbol of bereavement.
This veil Is arranged on the hat in
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21

the face. six months thrown back from
the face, over the hat. Some widows
retain the crepe veil for the full two
year period of mourning; others re-
place 1t, the second year with heavy
net veil bordered with hem OF crepe,
worn over the face. This crepe
edged veil may be allowed to fall
loosely from the brtm Of the hat, float
ing about the shoulders. or it may be
pinned back against the back of the
neck, the ends falling at the back, ac-
cording to personal comfort and taste.
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21
5rnArst Mourning
hao Ito Appropriate
Theater BelonS1raS0

and 0ropo. The feature Of this ooo-
.ume - its exceptional grace Of line
which gives to the simplA gown o3 Aun
black fabric an exqu3atte greece and
distinction. The mum Of crepe folds.
.nottod At one side. - especially smart
and the picture shows the correct ad-
justment Of . young WIDOWS vol1. This
ven - Q huge square Of net. bordered
with crepe. A smaller ven - arranged
over the fAea. fastening with . snap
button It the back Of the nsok. TAs
costume - completed By butAened
ooots Of dun black leather. Pakent
.eather or even vici kid should not
be worn In deep mournins. dull lsath-
IT being selsotsd In bua1oned boots
nd dull kid or suede IN clippers for
no house.
Another Illustration shows the gren-
sdine veil. bordered with crepe. ar
ranged over . widows snail bonnet.
White For Summer Aowning.
All white II just a. deep mourning
as all black, but black and white
mixed constitute second mourning. A
smart hat and collar Of black and
white crepe combined. and intended
for second mourning wear. are pic
tured. The woman who chooses to do
SO may abandon her black mourning
this summer and dress entirely In
white In the country, returning to
black mourning when she takes up
her town life In the autumn. Ameri-
can women Of good taste do not wear
white mourning in the city. though
this custom II prevalent in France:
but there 10 something startling ANA
almost insincere in a white mourning
tailleur and hat loaded with white
crepe and accom- panied by white boots
and gloves on q city street and few
| American women would care to make
| themselves SO conspicuous. In the
country. however, white mourning II
perfectly permissible. provided the
materials used are correct. White
linen, pique. dimity and batiste with
out lace or embroidery trimming and
made up with tucking and buttons.
will answer for mornings. White serge
and mohair will make excellent tall
lsurs, and crepe may be used a. q
| trimming for these. White indestruct-
ible voile and white chiffon may be
used for evening froclks Of distinction.
All accessories must be dead white
also. White buckslkin buttoned boots
and pumps with whiee silk stockings.
White parasols and white gloves will
make smart accompaniments Of the
+ white suits and frocks. Hats may be
of white panama or chip trimmed with
white moire ribbon, draped bengaline
and white feather ornaments or quilts.
White silk hats with white crepe bows
are worn with deep mourning.
Some correct and attractive mourn
ing accessories are pictured. The
pouch shaped reticule IL Of dull Jet
beads with a black cord fringe and
gunmetal chain handle. The black
net fan is spangled with discs OF gum
metal and has carved black wood
sticks. The neckwear. all but the
high stock, is intended for second
mourning. The large collar 10 OF white
crepe and dull black silk The jabot
is Of black and white net. The black
and white crepe bow matches the
large collar and the stock In of black
crepe on black net. with q ruche OF
white crepe at the top.
The Topeka state journal., 1914-02-21

- HE obliging stay-at-home who
always sends a Bon Voyage re-
membrance to embarking
- friends. is kept pretty busy these
days, for what with winter cruises
to the Orient, to Bermuda. to Pan
anna and the West Indies. and spring
sailing for Europe, one set of troubles
is no sooner over than the other be-
gins. But the stay-at-home may con-
sole himself with the comforting
thought that the sender Of a Bon
Voyage gift Is ever held in tender
memory. like the friend who does not
forget one during illness or time of
trouble.
Fruit il really a more acceptable
gift than flowers provided you are
certain the departing one is an excel
lent sailor. II she is not. neither fruit
nor flowers will bring any real COM
fort-and the fruit will bring least
with its succulent suggestion. In any
event. the well filled basket should
include q box of preserved ginger
which il sometimes appetizipg to the
Norwich bulletin., 1914-01-10

similar to that in use in public libra ries and will enable visitors to obtain books at any hour. The library will soon be opened for regular week day service and will be a benefit to the community. Two books, The Life of James G. Blaine and the Life of President Garfield, have been added to the already long list.
 New Hose Needed
 A committee appointed from the fire company to canvass the village for the necessary funds for new hose is composed of L. L. Park, A. E. Rath bun, Charles Mcdonald, George Brown and Walter Wolverton. About 15O feet of the present hose is unfit to use.
 Liberty council, Daughters of Amer ica, has accepted an invitation to at tend the installation exercises of Nan cy Hampstead council in New London, January 15. The officers of Liberty council will assist in the exercises. 0. E. Miner, who has been confined to his home by illness. is able to go out,
 The church meetings this week have received much attention and it is ex- pected they will be continued few days longer.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-01-10

this week has been small, only few barrels being shipped to market.
 Bremen Plan Whist.
 At the meeting of Pioneer Hook and Ladder company held Wednesday evening the following were named as committee on entertainment for Jan uary: J. H. Weeks, Norman F. Will cox, Frank l.. Staplin. The entertain ment will be a. progressive whist. Each member will invite two ladies.
 Moth Scouts Finish Work.
 The United States Scouts, who have been in this vicinity looking for the browntail and gypsy moths, have made a thorough investigation of the pest. The men will finish their work this week.
 The Stonington basketball team will play the Westerly team at the latter place this (Saturday) evening. They will meet the 5th company team.
 Inspects Old Lighthouse.
 Dr. James H. Weeks, president of the Stonington Historical and Genealog- teal society. has made an inspection of the old lighthouse building in Lower Water street. the use of which the government has granted the society for a term of five years as a museum. The matter will be discussed at the next meeing of the society.
 Bremen to Participate.
 Chief Edward P. Teed of Stonington fire department has called 8 meeting of the officers of the department to consider plans for the part that the fire department will take in the com ing celebration of the battle of Ston- ington.
 John E. Curtin, 2d, has entered the employ of the American Velvet com pany as a weaver.
 Matthew Gilmore is assisting at the Elm street crossing while Mir. Wells is enjoying & fishing trip at Worden's lake, South Kingston.
 Funeral of Mrs. 'RyIey.
 The funeral services of Mrs. Daniel Ryley were held at St. Mary's church Friday morning at o'clock, Rev. c A. Lynch celebrating the requiem high mass. Burial was in St. Mary's ceme- tery.
Norwich bulletin., 1914-01-10

Local LdcohlCS.
 William 4. Wilcox has sold the three tenement house in West Broad street, No. 26, formerly owned by Mrs. Mar garel Bennett, to Latham N. Bentley of White Rock
 While alleged disgruntled members of the general assembly were guests of Senator Liopitt at luncheon, the standpatters satisfied their appetites at d quick lunch room.
 George E. Utter attended the lunch con of the Town Criers Of Providence Whitehead of New York was on the subject Efficiency and Sales Manage ment.
 Prof. Arthur L. Maryott has complet- ed his first week as Sprincipal of the Westerly High school, and is pleased with the school, the pupils and the town. He came to Westerly from Wakefield.
 The Rhode Island Agricultural Sta tiOn at Kingston, says the report from the department of agriculture, is well organized for carrying on lines of re- search and for making the results ap- plicable to the conditions and problems of the farm. It is doing an important work.
 Thomas W. BickneH of Providence has been reelected president of the iNiICdC 1SletlIu SltlESIlS IIlSIOIlCdl SO- ciety for the tenth successive term. Miss Julia E. Smith, president of the Westerly Historical society, was elect ed vice president for Washington county.
 Rev. Charles J. Dutton of Little Compton, R. l.. has accepted the call to the pastorate of the First Congre- gational church in Rensselaer,, New ' York. He is son of Rev. John G. Out ion DaSfOl of the Broad Street Chris tian church, Westerly, and practiced law here for short while before study ing of the ministry.
 A commissioned officer of Water town arsenal has been ordered to make one visit each week to Westerly, Prov idence, Pa.wtuCket and Woonsocket, and to Forts Mansfield Creole, Adams, Wetherell, Getty and Kearney in Rhode Island. on official business pertaining to the inspection of the sea coast arm ament and the equipment of the Ma tiOnal Guard ar1nOrieS
Norwich bulletin., 1914-01-10
WESTERLY POST OFFICE RECEIPTS BIC
Reached $36 6o9 an Increase off S2 1892 During Over Cow on Trial in Third District Court - Rail Which Caused Express Wreck Proves Defective.

now resident of Arctic Center, while residing in North Kingstown, nearly two years ago, was found guilty of maintaining a liquor nuisance and was sentenced to 30 days in the Providence county jail and to pay a fine o1 S200 and costs. He served about nine months at Cranston. While in the Kingston jail awaiting commitment to Cranston, he said he agreed with frank Weaver. who had been stopping at his place, to care for his colt and COW, on a basis that the use of the colt and product of the COW would pay for their keep and net Weaver a profit. A witness to the verbal agreement in. the Kingston jail was Warren Coon, awaiting transportation to Cranston Tn Westerly. Weaver claimed he was privileged to sell the COW.
 Weaver subsequently, sold the COW 10 Thomas Steadman and Steadman sold to Abraham Brenner the pur- chase being made in good faith.
 When HOlberton was released from Jall he went in quest of his colt and cow He secured the horse from Weaver and learned that the COW was m the possession of Brenner and that there was also a calf with the cow Hoioerton demanded the COW of Weav- er but received response that the COW ha0 been sold Then demand was made upon Steadman- Holberton and Stead men then went to the Brener place and Steadman offered to pay the pur- chase price back for the COW, advising Brenner to comply and thus avoid trouble for all concerned Brenner said he would make no definite reply until he consulted a lawyer, declaring that the COW had been in his possession Tor SIX months, was kept at a loss and that he was entitled to more than the bargain price, $50, which he paid for the cow
 The trial of the case occupied over thre hours, and Judge Williams rem dered Judgment for the plaintiff
 he broken rail that caused the wreck ot the Shore Line express train near Westerly has been found to be quite brittle, breaking instead of bending under stress, and that the rail is full of assures, upon investigation by the United States bureau of standards. The bureau has not yet completed its work with the rail, but will make re- port to the interstate commerce com mSs1on as soon as possible. The re- port will be an illustrated document, showing the rail in detail as the cause of the wreck.
 Next week large gang of wood fin ishers will commence work on the in ter1Or Of the new poStoffice building NOW the date for completion is fixed at February IA. The new postoff1ce will have 374 letter boxes and drawers, subdivided as follows: 276 boxes at 60 cents quarter, 32 at 75 cents. AS at $1, and drawers at $1.50 each. The present box numbers begin with 271, but in the new office the box numbers will begin with 1 and end with 3g4. Therefore it will be impossible for Postmaster Butler to assign the same numbers to the present boxholders. He is. however, working on a plan that will give, as near as possible, boxhcld>