Evening star., 1914-10-24

way is said to be the roughest in the
end. whisky is our national reckless
drink.
The case has been another one in
western Europe There means for
luxurious sensation have been refined
land refined; made more and more com
i nent consists mostly of the luster and
tradition which surround name. The
Iyoung German student tecomes filled
with the inspiration of Ruedesheimer-
berg Auslese while singing college
Song all about a certain romantic
count. whose losses of sweetheart.
| friends, position and ancestral castle
were compensated by his enjoyment Of
this most velvety of wines. The liquid
sunshine fermented from the Rhine
grapes perpetuates it's fame in the
folk lore, folk songs, the sketches and
romances of the people.
! 1t cannot but add to the zest of the
reflective guest to know that, when he
milch, he is drinking wine made from
the grapes of a vineyard which the Vir-
gin Mary blessed years ago, or that,
over the glinting yellow of fragrant st.
taste similar to Goethe's. greatest of
ipoetS.
| Many of the names upon European
winecards have typed some hundreds
| or g1ddy
Drinkers Glass Alive years. and
With Memories of Past. , = 'vas ualn.
| that fit and dance in the depths of the
transparent ruby red or the flaky, gol-
den, sunset glow in the drinkers glass
are alive with memories of past con-
querors, poets, thinkers, artists and of
all of the generations of abandoned
| roysterers. One becomes familiar with
his ancestors, with all his past. over
the sparkling wine sort of lineage az
ancient as his own
| In Europe wines and caviar, together
with long list of table luxuries. trick
ed out in the glamour of rarity, as with
scarabs, Grecian marbles, Etruscan
tear Jugs or SO invested by etiquette,
as Is the case with the diamond. come
nearer to more of the people than these
things do with us. Their luxuries are
more necessary, or were before the
rack OF this war, and champagne and
caviar mark the excursion luncheons
of French and German artisans as reg
uiarly as our picnics are marked by
ouVes and sardines. The French serve
VINE with every meal. and the Ger
mans beer and wine, and, In both conn.
tries, a caviar sandwich is dear At IN
cents Thus dearth in caviar and
wines would be felt from prince to dav
laborer in Europe, while with us It
YOU'D cause dependency to very few.
caviar: Va
IN the beginning, it may be men.
tloned that, while American caviar is
not sturgeon roe. it, nevertheless. ac-
cordlng to expert gastronomic opinion.
is a delicacy that stands in no way
second to the Russian article. 1t is
produced largely from the eggs of the
paddle nsh, or the spoon-bill catfish,
the range OF which Is said to be along
the mississippi valley from Texas to
and Wisconsin on the north. Larger
individuals of this species often weigh
considerably more than 100 pounds
and yield ten or more pounds of eggs
The eggs are sold for the manufacture
of caviar at 81 pound
| The spoon-bill cat roe has supplied
most of our caviar in times of peace,
| as it has since the European source
was isolated. The Species. however,
| is becoming scarce. 1t has yielded sew
year to the fishermen, and now, ac-
! cording to an expert of the federal
bureau of fisheries, protective meas
ures must be adopted, or the spoon
bill cat will become extinct.
! Home industry can do as well in the
production of wines as in the manu-
facture of
Caviar Competition With caviar but
Europe Difficult. .a onps.l,,oA
ropean brands is more difficult. Cha
teau Yquem has the indef1nition of a
! name about 1t which is, under our pure
food law, impossible of imitation Cav
lar is caviar, but white wine Is either
Ruedesheimer, Johannisberger, Yquem,
Berncasteler, or similar American i'm
probability. And these wines were
famous long before American vineyards
entered into competition.
Yet many Of the wines which are
made in this country are fully the
peers of the corresponding European
sorts. California dessert wines are said
| to be much better than the European,
and California port is acknowledged by
the European gastronome. Port, To-
kay. the sharp. frey. sweet wine of
Hungarian discovery; Madeira. reflec-
birds; muscatel and over-sweetish Nal
aga, are all produced from California
grapes in such qualities as to dim the
memory Of their foreign competitors.
On the other hand, American sherry is
said to be shade, just a mere pale
shade or SO. behind the better Euro
pean sherries.
| One of the failings of the American
| Wine producers, and one which can cas-
/ lily be remedied. is that they neglect
to age their products properly before
putting them upon the market. Prob
ably this failure to hold the wines in
| store is responsible for the loss of one
| shade in quality to the European wine
by American sherry. Too youthful
sherry is sharp. ragged and gagsy.
Also. it has about the same disastrous
after r-effects as the cheap cognac. po-
tato brandy, that one buys in France
and Germany for about SO cents gal
lon. What unmellowed sherry does to
the tippler is often discouraging.
|
Burgundies and Bordeaux, both red
and white; Margaux. Chablis, st. Julian.
American Wines to Haut Sau-
Profit From the War. team Me, VIA, ma
Chateau Pontet Canet and various
other types can be produced from the
American grapes as successfully as
from the grapes of France. and. if
mellowed for the proper time and kept
with proper attention, are in every
way as satisfying. The American sau-
terne has the same mildness, the same
velvet texture. and bare suggestion OF
| a fruity sweetness which has made its