davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03

dents struck at just the right point
to give dash and individuality; peaks
straight on the top or coquettishly at
one side to add a bit o height to
milady's figure; telescope effects
anything, in fact, but plain crown.
But the crown of crowns is the
stovepipe, as high as grandfather's
best silk hat, sometimes rounding on
top, or peaked or fiat and most often
accompanied by very narrow brim
that accentuates the tallness of the
stovepipe crown. Now add to the
heightened line and the narrowed
brim of this new millinery trim
ming that is also tall and narrow
and Haunting into the air, and what
can have more dash, more chic: OF
the Paris milliners who have made a
feature of these high hats for the fall
market are Lewis and Alphonsine,
Darticularly.
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03
CREATING A FASHION.

Feather trimmings and all-feather
hats have come to the fore very
strongly this season. Paris has been
busy developing attractive designs. in
her favorite aigrettes and paradise,
and at the same time paying the cour-
tesy to American trade of reproduc-
ing these same designs in feathers
that are not forbidden by our laws,
as her favorites are Thus there has
come a vogue for coque, hackle, burnt
ostrich, quilts and numerous feather
fancies. A very charming model
has been developed by Lewis of Lon
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03
TURBANS AND SAILORS. =

The turban has come back again
TO vary the mode and to please the
woman who goes in for. tailored
effects. This season it is built on
strictly round Oriental lines as to the
crown, Blu. as to the brim it must
have some odd projection, slashes and
dents, outstanding wing-like pieces
built into the buckram CT the shape.
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03

And how about the new sailors?
They follow the rule of the stovepipe
shape with the sauciest kind of mar
row brims and crowns SO tall that
they seem almost top heavy. How
ever, some of the increase in the size
of the brim is shown in these new
sailors and it is doubtless that as the
season advances the wide picturesque
sailor will have its day. An imported
wide-brimmed sailor model comes
from Lewis, and is made of black
satin, trimmed around the top edge
of the crown with white gardenias.
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03

6. The vogue of the single =
flower and the wide-brimned
sailor of black velvet is shown !
in this picturesquely simple (
Georgette sailor, almost Puri- s
tanical in mode, except for the
fame red poppy set straight IN b
front and the saucy tilt to the /
side that is still characteristic of ]
the fashionable rat. -..,ss... A,a,.sz !
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03
9 :: - 1I':@#E%l2E3 Ta@|3I@3F% "%S4z3yyASylc
Milady Must Make Choice Betzveen :ssqnfT; &:
ssss:zsSn :*s::4Ssn Large or Small Hats for THE Fall
'N.}Vtsl' !.
j
'1s7'Q'lils[.f;S.
~ n N'--. 'NWE,s

and in plain tailory effects or more
elaborately dressy. French felt, hat
ter's plush and velours come in a
minority that is none the less fash
iOnable.
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03
PAGE EIGHT

1. Odd shapes in brims and
feather fancies that are different
is the expression of this dashing
model of American design that
clings to the vogue of small
shapes and velvet covering. A
band of moire surrounds the
crown which is entirely brinlless
on one side. 90
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03
BLACK VELVET REIGNS.

Colors are being used by the best
fashion designers to a considerable
extent, especially in the darkest,
richest tones. Corbeau blue IS par
ticuiarly well thought at with tetc dc
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03

don and Paris, toque made of the
breast feathers of the white paradise,
with dashing quill-like ornaments OF
the paradise plumes, embodying all
the chic and smartness that mark the
creations of this designer. The same
design has been imported to America
developed in white hackle in the toque
and white coque in the trimmings.
This instance illustrates how a neces-
sity may often prove very delightful
source of inspiration, even in fashions.
One of the most attractive substi--
tutes for the banned aigrettes and
paradise is burnt ostrich-the usual
ostrich feather subjected to a treat
mcnt that gives it all the dropping
silky grace of the illegal plumage.
This season it appears in a dozen
attractive shapes, quilts, flowers and
tips, usually in the high and faunt-
ing effect that goes with the highness
and narrowness of the fashionable hat
model. Novelty birds, odd unnatural
looking creatures with big heads,
wings and scarcely any bodies, have
been shown on the Paris imports.
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03

VYyHICH is to be the fail favo-
NV rite-the absurdly small hat
w or the picturesquely large
one? That is the present millinery
question that time alone can settle.
There is one point of significance.
however, which points to the later
popularity of the larger shapes and
that is the fact that earlier in the sea-
son Paris was quite mad-Paris gets
quite mad every now and then-over
the extremity OF smallness in hats,
perching them on the top OF the head
like a dot on an i." Some of these
small hats were, and still are, as far
as Paris goes, hardly more than skull
caps, their extreme tininess accentu-
ated by being set on a high head
dressing, and decked with a high
trimming. Large or small, then, in
the new fall hat, will be safe pur-
chase, but be sure above all things
that the choice is becoming.
L, THE STovEPIPE CROWN. <i7
= The crowns the thing in the new
styles, the main element of variety in
fashionable treatment The plain
simple looking straight around
crown is thing of the past. The
new crown is complicated in an in
finite number of ways-ridges that
run this way and that; jaunty little
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03
RIBBONS VERY SMART.

After all is said and done what has
ever been more lovely as a millinery
material than ribbon? This season
it is more lovely than ever, more fash
ionable if possible and runs the en-
tire gamut of the mode in all-ribbon
hats, high faring bows and fancles
that take the place of feathers and in
tailored cockades and wheels OF MORE
and tailie. Q q s..is.ss.asssifs
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03

white-white wings set on black vel
vet hats, an innumerable fluattering
of white feathers, tailory effects in
white ribbon and last of all white
flowers as in the black velvet Lewis
sailor that has already been referred
to. (
Flowers, in fact, have blossomed
in profusion and ripened into fruits
of rich soft colors that appear in de-
What can be prettier than the vogue
of the single flower that has come
again this year with it's picturesque
possibilities? A large black velvet
sailor-or small one if preferred
set with one wide open rose in bright
colorings or a white gardenia, and
you have the acme of style in the pic
ture hat of this fall.
Imperial Valley press., 1914-10-03
WHITE FOR EARLY FALL.

As a relief from the darker winter
modes that are to come, the fancy
of early fall has been taken with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
FINDS $500 REFUGEES.
Special can. De.patch TO rnr srx.
PARIS, september ;.

PARIS, september ;.
Henry s. Breckenridge. the American
Assistant Secretary OF War. who came to
Europe on The cruiser Tennessee to assist
American refugees told the correspondent
@. THE Sun to-day that he had found
1000 Americans in Berlin, 1900 elsewhere
in Germany and 1000 In Austria Hungary,
all OF whom are now anxious to go home
This will leave In each empir, between
200 and 800 who are detained for busl-
ness or professional reasons.
Mr.. Breckinrldge said that both Cor
many and Austria had courteously facili-
tated the departure OF Americans who
wanted 10 leave and had supplied special
trains whenever and wherever they were
wanted All had been sent by the north
ern route and none BY the Adriatic or
Mediterranean.
Assistant Secretary Breckenridge gave
aid directly and also indirectly In estab.
fishing credit. Mr. Breckinrdge said
there was no real suffering in Germany or
Austria Hungary. but there was little
inconvenience. He said that there were
10000 Americans in Europe at the out
break OF the war who desired to return
home All of these had not practically
started. He added that the cost Of the
trip was well within the si,500,0O of the
Government gold sent over on the Ten
nessee. American army officers are still
searching for stranded Americans IN
Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Spain
Mr., Breckenridge expects that the
Tennessee will finish the work OF trans
fcrrng patches OF Americans from France
/ TO England In day or two and will be
ready to sail for the United States in
| about two weeks.
The American Embassy is convinced
there are not over nifty Americans re-
manning in Paris who want to leave
| Among the arrivals from Vienna by way
/ of Switzcrlani are II. Percval Dodge
/ Major logan and two other officers be-
! longing tn Assistant Secretary OF Wal
Breckinri1ge's relief corps tn" jour
ney was relatively easy, occupy!nr
thirty-siX hours TO Switzerland, twenty
hours across Switzerland and twenty
| four hours to Paris,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
BUSY OFFICIAL TRIO.
spec.u, Gable Despatch to TUE sus

PARIS, Sept. 5.-There is much curl
osity here as to the real roles which
will be taken in the near future by for
mer Ambassador Robert Bacon OF the
United States and Ambassador Desig-
nate Sharp. both OF whom are working
with Ambassador Herrick. II " under
stood that for the present. at least, Mr..
Bacon is here on purely humanitarian
mission, chiefly in connection with the
Red Cross service while Mr.. Sharp
will act purely in II consulting role until
the crisis Is over.
The American Embassy is now kept
very busy with the affairs Of Germans
and Austrians, which were turned over
to II by the Ambassadors OF those coun-
tries. The embassy is arranging money
matters for the few who are in tinan-
cial need owing to the difficulties about
cashing checks. The staff OF the en-
hassy is also busily engaged in comp!l-
ing a register OF American residents in
fia's and other dwellings with view Ia
their protection In case Of the Siege
or capture OF Paris.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
ASKS SHARP TO PASS
ON GERMAN DOINGS
"Temps" Submits Fatherland's
"ScOrn Of Right" to Ameri-
cans Judgment.
L. s. LOVES TRUTH, 1T SAYS
Declares Her People Will Not
BE "Dcccived by Any
Manpuvre."

ssecih cable Despatch 70 Tur srS
PARIS. Sept. 1.-THE Temps says to-
day editorlally:
while the German Ambassador to
the United States is working hard cam
paigning in the great republic against
public sentiment Ambassador Herrick's
successor has arrived here amidst
dramatic events which reveal the
nations soul In absolute sincerity. with
all it, qualities and defects.
Ambassador Herrick has informed
his Government Of the daily exploits
Of aviators throwing bombs upon Paris.
Former Ambassador Robert Bacon. who
Is a fervid advocate Of humanitarian
ideas In international law. is also a
valued impartial Judge of how Ger
many is violating that law daily. The
new American Ambassador to France.
William G. Sharp. will soon be in
position to Judge Of the extent OF tho
failure of German civilization.
The bombs which forced the royal
children TO leave Antwerp TO escape
premedltatcd assassination and the
burning Of Louvain have made an in
effaceable impression on the United
States. hut Ambassador Sharp will soon
ascertain that by authenticated out
RACES the Germans Systematically have
erected their scorr of right into an
! instrument OF terror and slavery. while
! France has violated no treaty and has
only defended her soil and her liberty.
We submit the matter to the judy
ment OF the eminent Ambassador and
/ his former colleague and to all en-
/ lightened, liberal men. Americans love
truth and justice too much to make us
fear they will allow themselves to be
deceived by any man9uvre. The more
grossly an attempt is made 10 abuse
their good faith the more vigorously
they will act"
The Temps in summarizing the mill
tary situation says:
"To-nights communique brings a new
element of incontestable importance.
We are ignorant yet "a 10 whether tho
German forces have avoided and passed
the intrenched camp of Rcims by the
north or the south. hence Il Is impos-
sible TO formulate n hypothesis as re-
CARDS the importance Of the MANICURE
and It's consequences on the intrenched
camp of Paris
Goubet. member of the General
Council! who has arrived at Rouen. eN-
pressed surprise In an interview AT the
emotion OF the Inhabitants.
why leave" he asked. NO i'm
mediate peril threatens you. II un'
doubtedly is the fear Of seeing the
tragic scenes in Belgium repeated which
is causing panic. can assure yot
that such acts have not been repeated
in the departments Of the Nord ans
Pas de Calais which I have traversed
No public buildings or private houses
were burned merely for the sake o
causing destruction. Bread and othe
food and supplies were paid for in cash
The enemy disliked finding houses de
serted and would smash the windows
Always fearing they would be sho
from behind windows. they woul'
forcibly open closed houses.
Il heard no complaints from tn
people In the vast region | have jus
; traversed. Depredations were relatlvel!
, unimportant."
Oysters have arrived in the centra
markets in almost normal quantity 70
. September.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
AMERICANS AID QUEENS FUND
Many Generous Contributions Made
to Help Unemployed women.

LONDON, Sept, queen Mary's APP
peal on behalf OF women thrown out Of
employment by the war has been Inn
m, d!ntely and generously supported. The
donations include
william Waldorf Aston. $4,000
s25.0O0) Lord Strathcona and Mount
Royal. $4,000 s25O Andrew Car
nrgio. $1,000 e5,OOO); Mrs Vanderbilt,
$500 (so.500) the Countess Of Granard
f20o Sl,Oo0) Mrs Goelet. f?O0
Csl.O0O); Mrs. Bradley Martin, the
Duchess OF Roxburghe and the puchcss
Of Marlborough. f100 Cs5o0) each tn,
Duchess Of Manchester $500 H2,500).
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
CAN'T ARREST REPORTERS.
WAR Prisons Are Not for Correspon-
dents, Says Franch Lawyer.

PARIS, Sept, 5,---Dealing with the ques-
ton "Can a journals, he made pris-
ON r ~ WARP" the well known jurlst NJ.
Clunet writes in the Temps
mo, except In territory under mill
tary Occupation N the time Of war. In
drfending their country with all their
soul and all their talent" NJ Clun"t con-
tinues, they have only expressed an
opinion in itself respectable and free
which shows itself In the immaterlal
domain of ideas and not in that of COM
Blatant acts"
Tho Hague conventions, NJ, Clunet
holds, regard The members Of the press
as n-combatants.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
MAIL GOES TO EUROPE TUESDAY
The Liner Rsndnm Sails on That
Date for Rotterdam.

New York are by the Holland America
liner Ryndam which sails for Rotterdam
on Tuesday. Mail for the Ryndam
closes at the General Post Office at $50
A. NJ Tuesday. for Germany. Austria
Hungary and Luxembourg. Mail for other
parts of Europe may be sent by the Ryn.
dam II specially addressed to 40 by that
steamer.
The Cunard liner Mauretanla sails for
Liverpool Wednesday with European
mail This mail closes at the General
Post Office at $40 p. VI. Tuesday.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06

lONlbN, cEpNtiiipti ~
Chairman Hoover Of the American
p,iio, Committee in London desires on
be,alf Of the committee to protest
AGAINST the inadequate arrangements
,or American refugees at Havre. He
says.
,Thc American Embassy at Paris ar
r,-gel for several special trains. The
passengers on the first OF these con-
sisted Of people booked to sail on the
Franc. and La Touraine. The passen-
gers u the second consisted OF refugees
without transportation.
"These arrived at Havre and found
no representative Of the United States
Government They were deposited on
tho docks AZ II O'Clock Wednesday
night, pr :. ". woodhouse Of Phila-
dc'phia took charge and ascertained
hat Major Mortimer j. Henry, L. $. A.
the military attachc az Paris, was
aboard La Touraine.
Or. Woodhouse endeavored in vain 70
roach him. one man who saw Major
Henry quoted him a. saying You are
suffering no hardships; this is war
British soldiers Gave Food.
"Maior Henry Immediately left the
deck Of the ship and went to the cap
taln's cabin Fortunately British soldier:
and officers came to the rescue OF tn,
American women and children and ar
Admiralty transport placed its work
room at their disposal. The Tommle!
and officers surrendered their beds an,
blankets 10 the women and children anc
~ tho morning gave them their owl
coffee ard bread, their only breakfast
The chauffeur If the commander:
British General saw woman with chill
dren standing on the deck and stoppe,
Ills car and said: 4 am not hungry
Kindly AXE thsI don't want IT, hand
ing over ham sandwiches and coffee.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
TRAINS FOR TOURISTS.
Austrian Roads Resume Through
Schedules with Sleeping Car Service

NiE%HA, Via Copenhagen and London.
Sept 5.--Throush train service, including
dining and sleeping cars, has been re-
sumed on nearly all the Austrian rail-
roads.
The American relief committee reports
that there are siill about 200 Americans
IN Vienna who wish TO get home. II is
expected tina, they will be forwarded next
week
several American physicians in Vienna
have offered their services to the Red
Cross
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
Potsdam Sails with $50 Refugees.

ROTTERDAM. via London, Sept. 5.--The
Holland America line steamship Potsdan
left Rotterdam at o'clock this morn
ing for New York with $50 American
refugees from Germany.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
u. S. CRUISER TENNESSEE
A CHANNEL FERRYBOAT

mediate necessities MIR and Mrs. Bel
mont came from Austria-Hungary
through Switzerland.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-09-06
Takes Rich Mems Autos:
Leaves Women on Pier
London Relief Committee Protests Against t. s. s. Tennes-
sees Rescue WOrk-Brish Soldiers Feed
Hungry Mothers and Children.


THE English officers asked English
women stopping at the hotels at Havrs
to assist the necessitous among the refu-
gees on the dock. The Englishwomen
responded magnificently, carrying coffee
and rolls from the hotels. Meantime
Major Henry was Invisible"
The American committee In London,
after consultation, states through n. G..
Hoover that the inadequate arrange
ments for the reception Of American
refugees at Havre Ia q disgrs cefuI cpl
sode whore officers Of the United States
army have been especially delegated for
the purpose NJ relieving necessltous
Americans.
"How Is II possible for American mis-
lionaires TO he able to transport automO
biles on the ferryboat Tennessee while
American women ana children are Obliged
TO starve on the docks OF Havrc save for
the Kindness Of British troopsf"
Mr.. Hoover said that It was essential
that the United States should regulate
matters Immediately.
Carries Ala to smyrna.
The American cruiser North Carolina
sailed for smyrna last night with Major
William Williams in charge OF $50 .O0C
in gold for the relief of Americans In
Turkey. According to the latest advices
the American naval yacht Scorpion vii
meet the North Carolina outside the
Dardanelles and will transfer the none,
to Constantinople. as the Dardanelle.
are reported closed.
Reports that the attitude Of the
United States is anti-German have
created extreme antagonlsm to Ameri.
cans In Moslem areas. hence the neces.
sty for the presence of an American
warship in Eastern waters to relieve
men whose banking accounts have beer
forfeited owing to the proclamation Of
martial law and to he in readiness tc
transport missionaries and American,
in event Of the expected outbreak Of {
Jchad or holy war.
The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1914-11-25
|. :. = !: :. :. ): !: < :. :. :. :: :. :. = 4:
. BRoGAN ITEMS. ::
|. :: /: :: : = {: :. = :. Z: :: :: :: : + :

Little Hcrnardinc DOwney. the in
FAINT daughter OF Mr.. and Mrs. john
DOwnry. who came to gladden. the
home only Il week ago. died on Satul'
day of last week having been sutfcl"
ing from an attack of bronchitis. AS
the little girl was very pretty and
bright. the parents had many fond
hopes for a happy life and the death
came rs a great shock. The funeral
services were held at Wall Lake Sun
day. Rev Father DAILY conducting tho
service, after which the remains we're
laid to rest in the Wall Lake GENE
terry. Three sisters and one brother
had gone before her She leaves to
mourn her death her loving parents
Mr.. and Mrs. John Downey. two little
sisters and many relatives and
friends.
Mr. and Mrs. Brogan and daughter
Agnes. spent Sunday evening at the
b. Mclaughlin home
Miss Christina Schwartz returned
home from Denison Friday where
she has been for several months
learning the dressmaking art.
Mr.. Earnest Schwartz went down
to Council Bluffs the fore part OF the
week TO transact some business.
MI. and Mrs. Herb. Cochran and
family enjoyed Il pleasant call at tho
Tom Brogan home Sunday evening.
Mr.. and Mrs. George Dieter were
The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1914-11-25

in 1916. This confidence is based up
on the results OF the late election. 1t
is not, however. wholly so based. The
conditions making for the reputation
Of the democrats remain and will he
intensified with the passage Of the
months. They have the bourbon ia
tally of never learning anything.
They have doomed themselves to be
condemned by the people because
they have condemned the people to
suffer the iniliction Of partisan legis-
lation that was conceived and effect
ed without regard for national condi-
tons or national needs.
The prominence with which the
name OF former President Taft is
mentioned for the nomination in 1916
is not due to n dearth OF good mate
rial but TO the fact that he seems best
to typify and to embody the lrueSt
experience Of the nation and the
trueSt standards of national admins
tration. During his retirement from
office he has commanded the respect
of the entire people by his diSpassion-
ate balanced and discerning express
ions upon national matters. This fact
furnishes one of the best reasons for
believing that in 1915 the standard
bearer OF the republican party for the
rehabilitation OF the country's ideals
and practical agencies will be William
Howard TAFT. baltimore American.