The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-03-29
Outline for Summer and
Autumn Frocks Elk.
pected to Be Intensely
Feminine Instead of
Boyish Printed Silks
Used by Best Paris
Dressmakers
~ CLAUDE CHDRYO.

. asgerated Futurism as applied to house
French and English newspaper wsrs
discussing the wonderful black dining
room designed for Lady DroshsA
Princess Vera" gave . reception IN
her new music room which f1tly rsprs-
oented the sunny south.
II was . veritable homo Of sunshinA
The walls were ivory white with . VIZ
deep friexs on which conventional dwarf
orange trees were painted; the trees
were laden with golden fruit. The car
pet was in palest pastel blue velvet pile
and was strewn with white beArslxin
rugs. The furniture was In carved
ebony, upholstered with . thick white
silk which looked like coarse shantunS.
There were masses Of Malmaison cafnA-
lions in high crystal vases: here and
there tall palms stood in copper pots.
The most remarkable thing connected
With this lovely room was the lighting.
1t was full Of soft golden light, but No
lamps were visible. The idea had "a.
mittedly been taken from the lighting
Of the Theatre des Champs Elysees In
Paris and II was exceedingly success
full.
Princess Vera had asked an her IN.
Inmate friends to come with powdered
hair and to wear pastel tinted gowns.
The result was bewilderins. In Paris
ones eyes have become 80 accustomed
TO startling combinations Of strong COL
ors. to sudden splashes Of black and
sudden aplashes Of dead white
or vernilion. that II seemed unnatural
to revel in brilliant sunshine-and at
midnight. But that was the impression
given.
In a certain exclusive circle Of p
risian society the matter Of Futurist and
Cubist house decoration 10 being taken
seriously. 1t IL felt. and ! think with
reason. that something must Be done
to stem tho tide Of meaningless 60
centr1city. It is not given to every one
to realize tho meaning or the possibil-
tiles Of MARITIME color schemes.
Apropos Of the MARITIME school
must record that printed silks Of N
exceedingly supple texture will be freely
this season. Many Of these silks are
genuine MARITIME designs; similar to
those which Paul Poiret has had manu-.
featured in the United States. Others
will be Of the same genre but less orig
inal and perhaps for that reason more
generally popular.
In ono Of the drawings I have s1s-
cuted this week to accompany this
article I have indicated the use Of Mar
tine printed silk. In tho cass Of the
ngure holding q pure white evening
wrap tho model was extremely original.
The underdreas. which was made Of sill
yer gray souffie de sole. shows the new
punched UP draperies which add width
to the hips and which at times give .
hustle effect The printed and en-
broidered tunio was in MARITIME silk
which showed . design Of lemons
framed in dull purple leaves ON an
oyster white ground The lemons wera
partially covered with silver embroidery
and the corsage was entirely composed
of silver tulle. Purple suede shoes en-
broidered in silver were worn with pale
lemon yellow silk stockings.
Tho famous dress artist who dedgned
this gown made II plain that to COM
pIste the color scheme tho wig. or trans
formation. ought to be purple. When
protested against this detail and pointed
out that II was unnecessarily exagger-
ated he admitted that powdered halr
would look equally well with the dress
this was certainly the truth.
In the other drawing you will md IN
Neal dinner gown for q refined woman
who wishes to be in the movement with
cut overstepping tho bounds OF good
taste ThiS model was created by
Drecoll for . we'll known actress In
Paris. The "ligne' 10 charmingly
natural and the Ions tunic would prove
becoming to any woman Of full, era
cious figure.
The charmeuSe skirt 10 draped up n
front to show An underdress Of hnei,
pleated lace. This 10 one Of the yer,
latest ideas and II has rapidly become
popular. These underdresses Of pleatet
lace or chiffon form q desirable addition
to tho costume when tho skirt 10 eithe
draped UP or Slit In front Dreooll 1,
introducing such semi-transparen
underdresses on many OF his best model
with excellent effect.
The long tunic shown in the sketch I
made Of broche gauze which shows
bold design In cardinal red on an EN-
pirs green ground. Tho embroiderie'
on the corsaGe repeat these vivid tone
Of red and green and n tho wearer o
such a gown wished to bs very "dernie
cri" she would have to wear her hal
slightly powdered or adopt dark gree
transformation.
Notwithstanding the fact that saas
Osratedly bunohy draperies are rapid
coming into fashion, such men q
Drecoll. Worth, Doucet and RouY ar
still making evening gowns with lona
graceful tunics which add height to tn
figure. These tunics are gathered q
tho waist and moro often than not the
are full: but a. only tho most suppl
materials are used this fulness does nc
interfere unduly with the outline Of tn
figure.
several months ago I told my read
srs In The Sun that classic outline
we're coming into fashion together wit
classic raperies. recall the fact tbs