The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1914-01-30
TO AVOID
Homemade Look In Fitting
The Gown

results look homemade" This mat
ter Of look is to large extent syn
onymous with eft" OF course finish
and detail have somewhat to do with
it.
A high class dressmaker would be-
gin fitting a gown from the corset
outward. No one can accomplish
good fit over poor corset, says the
Pictorial Review
Next to the corset the underwear
claims the modiste's attention. A snug
dress is not going to look well, in
these days of scantiness, over a
bunchy chemise or a gathered petit
coat. A combination corset cover and
petticoat--a princess slip" which any
woman can make for herself-will fit
smoothly over waistline and hips.
1t IS absolutely imperative to have
a dress form. There are many adjust
able forms on the market to help the
amateur in obtaining a correct fit. The
pneumatic form is always satisfac-
tory, as one form will do for several
members of the family.
A pattern file is box or drawer, is
a valuable way Of systematizing the
sewing. Regular" patterns for un.
derwcar, Innings, skirts, aprons, pa.
jamas, and the like will always be
there, and the good housewife will at.
tach o card to each showing when it
was Used, how much material was re.
quired, and what variations she had
to make. The file should be kept
well puned and up-to-date, for with
the fast changing fashions last years
sleeves and skirts will not be availa.
BILE.
OF course the first requisite for gen.
eral sewing is good sewing machine
1t is more important to choose one
that runs freely and easily than one
that does fancy work with the attach
ments. Individual preference must be
suited in the matter of chain stitch
versus lock stitch. The ease with
which chain stitching can be ripped
out makes it attractive to mothers
of growing children where garments
must be let down with frequency
Lock stitch can be manipulated how
ever, to obtain the same result, by us
ing long stitch, a fine thread and g
loose upper tension.
In addition to the indispensable
dress form and the sewing machine
there should be skirt board on an ad
Unstable stand, and an electric, gas oi
gasoline iron in the sewing-room
which will do more than any other i'm
plement, to Danish the homemade
look Seams should be pressed wher
done; tucks flattened, plaits held ir
place and wrinkles taken out of new
goods before cutting. Much of this
work can be done on the wrong side oi
the material. Hens turned with the
iron and gauged with a hem gauge
save the labor of basting refractory
darts can often be dampened anC
ironed into shape, and in all worl
where a tailored finish is wanted the
iron and damp cloth should be IL
constant service.
Perhaps the strongest and mos
practical hooks and eyes for the home
sewer are those that come in strips
b the yard, ready to be stitched il
place In making fitted lining It /:
well to put on these hooks before try
ing ON, changing the fit at the seams
If necessary. For plackets there is
nothing better than clasps by the
yard They come SO tiny and narrow
that they can be run down the very
seams of skirt without showing.
Ready-made buttonholes in mater
ials ranging from fine lawn for shirt
waists to coarse betting for boys
knickers, are great help.
A good skirt gauge comes on little
stand, equipped with device for hold
ing the marking chalk. A platform
er can be bought for quarter anC
with the help of the ever useful iror
saves much time and gives good re
| suits. A needle-threader is an assist
| ance either for the machine or TO
handsewing needles; sewing ma
chine stocking darner attachment Ii
appreciated by many and a scallol
marker is often needed.
In the finishing details there arr
many ways to get good effects for |
small outlay of money or labor. Sof
cord for corded gathers and corde'
trimming is one Of the best and cheap
I est foundations for ornament. Ros
cites and fancy loops and "roses" o
the corded piping are easy to imitat
and lend note of smartness to yer,
simple frock. Wooden button mold
in square, round or oval shapes max