New-York tribune., 1914-10-24

x ing from the heSN ""N -.
IL 81 the suit described as fur
a. do not hastily conclude that
s-. has been an attempt to misiead
The pelt assuredly is somewhere
w W., tho erestion, but you happened
w. "a look at the right place imme-
~ ~ Extend the investigation to
ga. portions Of the costume which
..tore ''0. have not carried fur gar
rhhings. ,..,aor, -
.A.res AZ the back of the coat, as
~. ease of a unique and undeniably
.-t : model Of black velour de lame
go. shoulders are crossed with
hands Of skunk. :.
A front those bands extend only hair
waist line defined by semi
w. s..,Ssd broad belt of self-msterisl
..,,,d with three stitched folds. At
- .be fur goes in straight lines to
s'. u,i.t which is crossed by slight
!, dropped belt. .
r,oro under the arms this portion OF
r;rdle runs beneath the left-shoul-
s.t,stened and rather shorter fronts
= n, cost which. all round its lower
.sre. is bordered with fOur-iuch
"A. fold-stitehed band.
Road cuffs. similarly stitched, turn
~ upon Russian sleeves, and the
"a, is finished about the hem with
.spd matching that on the jacket.
ov.rskirt Separated in Front.
os generous width is that skirt, its
,,lnsss partly taken up by clusters OF
deep side pleats az centre Of front
,Aove which separates an overskirt so
lo,s that its lower edge overlaps the
cached fold-trimmed band. Because
,,ms women feel the cold chiefly about
a.ir shoulders is not the reason why
Al, velour de laine suit is thus
trimmed with fur. for the model was
not designed for any special customer.
The idea was TO create something un'
usual, and the elongated epaulets OF
skunk certainly are an oddity.
POIrst Model of Mastic-Hued Velvet.
Their position. however. is not more
eccentric and, incidentally, becoming
10 certain figures than is the broad
hand Of opossum crossing the hips at
Re hack of a coat-suit Of mastie-hued
velvet
The one-piece garment Stimulates
ylah, straight and not especially mar
row skirt. and a blouse which, ending
.. trcns and sides under a broad self
belt st back extends over the hips.
Velvet ball buttons fasten the fronts
from = neck finished with a fatty
turned over Opossum collar extended
almost to the bust.
Sleeves, Russian in style, are gath
e;ti at the wrists into self-band cuffs.
This model, by Paul Poiret, is . favor
its type Of winter costume and one
adaptable to many attractive varia-
tOns in materials and trimmings. 1t
is good in tan with sable, black with
eivet cat and blue with black fox.
Nothing is smarter for a debutante's
visiting and church costume than this
sort Of eoat-suit. Nor should it be
overlooked by the young matroD who
looks like a girl even when her chill
dfsn are clustered about her.
More definitely in line with the new
Silhouette than this costume is a goat
Trimmed brown velvet suit. Very prac-
teal it is, too, for, in addition to its
full falling plain skirt and its dainty
bodiee-ehiefy Of creamy lace-there
an all enveloping redingote, whose
nsfing length between waist and
ndes is broken by two rows Of goat
irngs At the lower edge of the gar
@snt Is third fringe of goat. Broad
and haring is the fur collar finishing
es low, rolling fronts of the redingote,
vt mere fringe of the pelt edges the
srsts Of the closely fitted, rather low
vt sleeves.
very businesslike is the appearance
" morning street suit Of fur
nHmed broadcloth. The model,
@unehed by couturier who is rapidly
"aing to the front, is a two-piece
mar OF cedar green shade, garnished
With opOssum.
NOT an inch of that pelt shows itself
'spOa the severely plain, broadly
.snned skirt, so gored that most of
y inlness comes at the back. Never
1sless, the silhouette repeats in a
modified degree that Of the coat, which,