Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1914-05-06

green and red. AS you win see. the
dark eolored eharmeuse was arranged
in deep bias bands on the skirt and
the same material formed the loose
I coatee, which was in form which
may be described es "Eton-boiero."
This coatee was exaggeratedly
short. barely passing the waist line.
At the back it hung in straight lines
and in front it was crossed and fast
ened at the right side by single but
ton. Underneath there was the in
evitable white linen vest, with its high
curved collar.
Chez Worth | have seen several
high original models Of visiting cos
tunes composed Of black mirror vel
vet, plaid taffeta and embroidered
mousseline. In one case the embroi.
deries, which appeared on the revers
/ and collar, were carried out in tiny
beads of the colors shown in the plaid
material. On this model there was
loose coatee of black mirror velvet
and the gathered skirt was entirely
made of plaid taffeta.
Nearly all the BEST Paris dressmak.
ers are showing finely plated under.
dresses on their more elaborate day
dresses. These plated skirts give
most delightful effects when combined
with draped skirts which are slightly
cut up in front, The plaits fiuff out
FROM the feet and give a particularly
graceful appearance to the lower part
of the figure.
viii Be Welcome.
These plated underskirts come at
| just the right moment. All women of
good taste are objecting to the ultra
modern fashion Of showing consider.
able portion of the leg. and of course
all the feet and ankles, in the street.
From the first this was most OBJ
! jectionable fashion, inartistic and
highly unsuitable. The much-discussed
'slit-up" skirt originally came to us
from the period in which the famous
"Meryeilleuses" showed how attract
i've, in certain circumstances, empire
corsages and transparent draperies
i might be to the feminine form.
But Les Merveilleuses" did not go
in for 'le sport" Neither did they
wear the extraordinary costumes
when walking about the streets The
"slit-up" skirt was invented for eve
ming wear and for women who did not
hesitate to adopt remarkable fashions.
1t has never been suitable for ordi-
nary street wear and it Island always
has been-absolutely unsuitable for
the woman of today who has not time
to move gracefully or to learn how to
walk. 1t is interesting to realize that
these finely plated skirts are being
worn in connection with elaborate eve
ming gowns, as well as with day
skirts.
In Evening Models.
Some of the best evening models
now being created in the rue de la
Paix show draped skirts of mirror vel
vet or charmeuse opening over an
accordion-plaited skirt composed of
chiffon, voile or chantilly lace. These
plated underdresses are set into d
shaped yoke at the hips and the
draped skirts are often quite sepa-
rate. 'This ia most delightful and
artistic fashion. From my heart l
wish it Ions life.
Bead embrolderies are in great de-
mand this season. They are used for
various purposes, for trimming the re-
vers and collars of tailored suits and
for enriching the draperies of ultra
elaborate evening dresses. In some
cases the beads chosen for these en-
broideries are SO tiny that they can
hardly be seen except when massed
together.
The priceless embroideries stored
away in the Cluny museum are being
eagerly examined. The great French
dressmakers are making every effort
TO secure original designs for their
embroideries and in some cases quite
wonderful res Is are being obtained.
Needless to say, these embroideries,
at their best, are very costly.
intricate Dressing Favored.
They are, of course. all done by
hand and only skilled workers are
capable Of following the intricate de-
signs. Very email porcelain beads are
cleyerly mingled with raised silk en-
broidery, and in some cases even with
dainty little flowers made entirely of
narrow ribbons.
A favorite idea is the "carpet-gar-
den" design, tiny beads being used as
a groundwork and floral designs being
then worked in silks and IA narrow
ribbons. In the Seine ct Maine dis
trict two well-known leaders OF soci-
ety--in the best sense OF the words
are doing a most useful work amongst
the embroideresses
These ladies secure all the most
original designs they can find and
these are copied by their school of
workers. High prices are obtained for
the embroidery done in this way.
A hat / have observed this week
is Vatican shape of great clarm. 1t
is Lewis creation and the fiat shape
itself is made of golden yellow Leg
horn straw. The top of the little
pointed crown is covesed with silk
in rich shade Of sapphire blue and
the broad velvet ribbons are 10 the
same shade.