davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
DEC0LLETAGE IS LESS
MORE COVERING GIVEN THE UP.
PER PART OF THE FIGURE.
That Change, and the Style Of the
Skirt, Are the Principal Differ.
ences in the Prevailing FASH
lons-6louse Styles.

The skirt and the decolletage are
the principal points of divergence from
the styles of the last Is years. and 1t
will be interesting to watch the fur
Their development of this fashion. Ev.
erywhere one sees strong evidence
that bodices are growing less trans
parent and the fashion for covering
the upper part of the figure with
Opaque material is progressing. Prob
ably by the springtime the use Of tulle
and chiffon will be greatly reduced.
The Paris designers forestalled this
when they showed in their wartime
openings the bodices of cloth or velvet
for day wear that extended from line
below the waist to the neck. leaving
only a splash Of white below the
ears.
This movement may be in keeping
adopted in a wholesale way in July;
it may be the period of the long body
line, the girdle at the hips, the wrist.
length, tight sleeves and the univer
sal use of colored velvets In deep,
rich tones frightened by lavish ham
ding of colored jets to initiate jewels.
Whatever the reason, it is the strict
ly new note to watch develop. Tha.
employment of the fabric straight up
to the collarbone without the inter-
vention of a thin material is sure to
win out Already the separate blouse
of colored chiffon to go with a skirt
of cloth looks out of tune with the
newest fashions. If one wears a suit
instead of one-piece frock the blouse
chosen for it must give the superficial
appearance of a continuation of the
skirt
It is this fashion that has suggested
to women to give the preference in
their winter clothes to the street frock
of cloth worn under fur coat or dol
man or long cloth cape. It has be-
come more and more difficult to man.
age a separate blouse with a cloth
skirt that is cut off at the waist line
proper.
When the suit Is for everyday usage
and to serve the most informal pur-
poses then the wash blouse Of white
muslin with a collar that stands up.
no matter how, is the appropriate adj
dition; much more SO than the orna.
mental waist Of chiffon or silk or sat
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
NEW VOGUE IN NECKWEAR
More Severe and monumental Style
Seems Likely to Replace
Dainty Collars.

Becoming as the dainty lingerie col
lar doubtless Is, 1t Is Just about time
that we had a change in neckwear
The change may be Of q kind regret,
ted by many. for 1t will possibly be
toward a much more severe and unor
namental neck line. Many of the new
evening frocks have a line singularly
hard. and SO have afternoon frocks.
And not long ago Madame Cheruit
wore a gown Of gabardine. with lit.
tie vest Of chiffon of the same color
The bodice of the frock was cut away
at the back of the neck and on the
shoulders two or three inches from
the lower line Of the throat and the
chiffon vest extended around the back,
filling In this space left bare by the
bodice with perfectly straight piece
OF the chiffon. Some faces and figures
can stand this fiat, straight line at the
neck, but most look far better in the
high rolling collar that has been so
popular.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
ADAPTED FOR SEWING ROOM
"Stitch-in-Time" Board vii! Sc Fou.I
OF Practical Use and a Pretty
Decoration.

A dainty and decorative "stitch-in-
time" board is thing that should find
place in every home, and 1t is also
a useful article to give as a small
present Boards of this kind can be
made in a great number of different
shapes and forms, and in our sketch
may be seen particularly neat and
ornamental board for hanging upon
the wall at some convenient spot
where the articles it contains may be
ready to hand whenever they are re-
Quired.
For making 1t. cut out a diamond
shaped piece of stiff cardboard, meas
uring six and half inches each way.
This card is smoothly covered on both
sides with pale gray watered silk the
material being cut out in two pieces.
stretched tightly across and sewn to-
gether at the edges, which are after
wards finished off with a pale pink
silk cord. arranged in three little
loops on either side and again at the
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
SefvaQss In Fashlon.

Selvages are more fashionable
than ever, 1t seems. The French
couturiers and their American imita-
tors delight in using breadths OF rich
silk and handsome cloth with un.
hemmed edges. end the selvages
make a very graceful finish as a rule,
blending more softly with the lines
Of the costume. A Partisan dinner
frock has a width Of superb lace
which covers the bodice and forms
the tunic. applied to the black tulle
yoke merely by its selvagea, the fat
line OF white outlining the curved
shape Of the yoke In very effective
fashion.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
DICTATES OF FASHION

Some Of the new jackets are made
with belts showing In front, but hid.
den at the back.
Buttons generally sew on from be-
hind. They are large and fiat, convex
or ball-shaped.
Trimmings are sparingly used.
Braiding is reserved for the ornamen.
tation Of the belt and straps.
Wine-colored velvet suits are
trimmed with cords Of the velvet and
buttons embroidered with steel beads.
Most evening coiffures show the
hair dressed SO closely to the head
as to give certain severity of out.
line.
Long-ha.red. cream-colored plush is
used for evening wraps and is lined
with brocaded crepe in vivid colors.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21

VI Uiue tulie over tHe SIlOuIueTS.
.e~~~.~~~~~~~~~~-~I~
In. although one may be compelled to
also have a fanciful affair on hand in
case of a luncheon or a tea to which
one wears this coat and skirt.
If one wants to simulate frock by
adding a self-toned blouse to skirt
when the coat is of. one might do well
to consider the claims of that new
style of cloth jumper that is slipped
over a soft silk lining with long
sleeves.
This blouse is easily accomplished
by utilizing a piece of the skirt ma
terial and binding it With braid or
silk or velvet ribbon Its juncture
with the separate skirt is hidden I'M.
der broad belt of braided cloth.
Another type of blouse that deceives
one into thinking in terms of one-piece
frocks instead Of coats and skirts is a
wrinkled garment, purposely wrinkled,
of soft grosgrain silk the color Of the
skirt 1t fastens down the front with
covered buttons and either turns up at
the hem in imitation of a MILDLY
blouse, or loses itself in a sash which
is finished at the back with a fiat bow
to carry out the tailored idea.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21

Turquoise blue silk frock with a silver
lace petticoat. and with straps and frills
Of blue tulle over the shoulders.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
StrapA

Straps are used to restrain the full
ness in many of the new winter coats
and skirts. Sometimes there are two
straps across the back Of a coat where
the full skirt flares from the waist
section Sometimes there are straps
across the front of the skirt to hold
in the fullness below the waist, and
sometimes they are used for the same
purpose on the hips. They are
stitched usually, and give a very
smart finish.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
Broadcloth and Satin.

Broadcloth and satin are much com
bfned. For instance, there will be q
skirt Of broadcloth with a bodice of
satin. Plaid broadcloth is also used.
But 1t is plated in dull deep colors.
These colors, which are employed IN
the seasons plaids and stripes, are In
dnitely more pleasing than the vivid,
Earish colors used last year.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
UNDER THE MISTLETOE

To ask a girl If you may kiss her
before doing it is an insulting way
Of laying all the responsibility on
her.
In a mans opinion a kiss is an end
that justifies any means.
You needn't be afraid OF a merel
kiss. Thousands are exchanged daily
by people of the highest reputation.
The kissed girl fears no mistletoA. |
A kiss is as good as a smile-and|
q good deal better, too!
The ideal kiss Is the kiss that 10
never given.
A kiss too soon may be a full stop
In the tale Of love.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
Tunic Short In Front,

Sometimes the tunic is cut short in
front and SO long in back that it COM
pletely hides the foundation skirt, it.
self extremely short, in the back. In
the front the foundation skirt, of chit.
fon, shows for three or four inches.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21
Plated Handbags.

A blue silk handbag is made with
plaits running across, not up and
down, as they often run. It is a nov.
city. and therefore will probably be
the object Of good deal Of attention.
It Is finished with q strap handle of
the silk.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1914-12-21

top and bottom. A fiat oblong cushion,
covered with pale pink silk and edged
with fine claret-colored silk cord car.
ried into three little loops at each cor.
ner Is made separately and sewn on
in the center Of the board. The up.
per edge of the cushion Is left free
SO that small pair Of scissors can
be slipped behind 1t In the manner II.
Illustrated.
On either side Of this cushion, two
reels Of cotton. one black. the other
white, are suspended with loops OF
narrow pale pink ribbon. At the low.
er point small pocket is sewn into a
little frill ct the edge, in which a
thimble may find a place. and q long
loop Of pale pink Tibbon. with q bow
at the top. is attached to either side
Of the board by which it may be sus
pended from q nail in the wall.
II
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
NATIONAL.

When Eugene Walter promises the
public new dissertation on a phase of
American life" the discreet prepare for
a shock. For The Rettcr Way" at
the National last evening. tiEis prepared-
ness was unnecessary. unless one can
conceive a snare in noisy and, riotous
ca barct scene. And so far as II added
anything to the story this srene might
as well have been omitted.
The story opens amid the smoke be-
clOuded and flame-fleCked hiiisides near
Pittsburgh. where steel making is in
progress. There the Man, an AmerlC an,
who has married "Hunkie, comes
home. weary and nerveless from daN
among the furnaces. There the Woman
shows her abiding faith in the future;
the vision by which she has sustained
the hardships of boarding Bavarlans.
Hungarians. Poles. and others of non
descript nationality.
Untn the court room scene the prog
ress OF the story inevitably recalls "Fhe
Governors Lady the otd. old story OF
a man to whom success meant ming
ling with. the world and the contact
with many points Of life, and woman
to whom 1t simply spelled the building
of a home
And if the court room scene must
stand comparison with Madame x 1t
may hold its own. In this scene Eugene
Walter attained the terseness OF eX-
preston, the swift moving action, Whlch
characterized his former plays and
which were missed in the earlier acts
last evening The story of man S
ingratitude. of a woman's grim deterni-
nation to stick" as she had stuck
in the early days when he went on
spree a Mahoney's saloon, the allure
meuts of a siren and a Matchmaking
gang. and a woman's seeming indiffer-
enCe to attacks upon her good name
these paved the way for the unexpected
psyCholoCiCal twist for which the audi
ence had been waiting.
hitherto limp, almost lifeless. and ex-
uressionless, the Woman, when told her
son was to be taken from her. sprang
with cat-like litheness into the witness
chair, pleaded guilty to all that her hus-
band had accused, and more, IN an
effort 10 retain her child. by proving 1t
was not his! And the man awoke from
the spell that held. him. proclaimed his
wife's unswerving goodness. And lived
happily? Not yet. For her. and his
fellow eonspirators served penitentiary
term first.
Melodrama this, but tremendously
through the restraint and sureness
of Charlotte Walkers touch, and
through the virile and rugged i'm
personation of Byron Beasley. Eu-
gene Walker before has shown his
power of painting a worthless cad.
a hopelessly weak and pitiable thing
in mans clothes. but this time he
with rare skill. to hold
forth continually. that latent man
hood h. which this man was to arrive
at his regeneration.
Effective. too, was the acting OF
George Stuart Christie, as a Polish
inventor; Of David Burton. as a Bo-
hemian coachman; Of Walter Wilson.
as the judge, and of Virginia Pearson
as the vampire" J. X. h.
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
HOUSE PASSES THREE
DISTRICT MEASURES
Bill Putting Auditors Salary at
900, Tax Amendment and
:; D. A. R. Act Put Through.

BY unanimous consent the House late
yesterday passed three District bills
which had been placed on the calendar
by the District Committee in hope that
they would be reached sooner than he
regular District day business. The
unanimous consent calendar engaged
the House all day. and the johnson
bill putting the auditor OF the Supreme
Court of the District on a salary h.
stead of fee basis: the Sfsson bill.
amending the tax laW and the Fitz
Henry bill, allowing the D. A. r. to
hold real and personal property to the
amount Of s1.oo0.Oo were passed with
out debate.
A subcommittee Of the District Com
mtttee recently Investigated the amount
Of fees received by the Auditor Of the
Supreme Court of the District. and re-
ported that Auditor Dent was making
twice az much as the judges of the
court and two and one-half times the
salary Of the Commissioners, Chairman
Johnson filed a report claiming that
the Auditor made out Of fees. about
$1,000 annually and he reported a bill
fixing his salary at 5000 and abolishins
the fee system. The only fees charged
hereafter, IL the House bill passes the
Senate. will be included in the costs Of
the court. and will 20 into the Treasury.
The Sisson bill provides that mo deed
of trust shall be issued until all taxes
and assessments appearing upon the tax
books against the property are paid.
with penalties, interest, and costs. In
cluding the taxes for the years for
which the District purchased the prop
erty at the tax sale, and that no deed
shall issue after three years from the
expiration OF the period during which
the certificate Is redeemable."
Congressman Fitz Henry's bill amend
ing the charter of the Daughters of the
American Revolution, allows them to
hold property valued at 81 900 900. instead
of 10000, the original limit.
Unanimous consent was refused for
the consideration Of several other Dis
rict bills on the Monday calendar, but
this does not kill the bills. The objec-
tion merely transfers them to the regu-
lar District calendar.
Congressman Madden objected to the
plastsring bill Congressman
Donovan refused unanimous cosant for
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
Would Start Bureau.
Stomach Troubles
Due to Acidity
50 SAYS EMINENT SPECIALIST.

50 SAYS EMINENT SPECIALIST.
So-cs!led stomach troubles, SUCH AS in
digestion. wind, and stomach-ache are
m probably nine cases out of ten sir7lDiy
',id@nce that fermentation is -aking
lace IL the food contents Of the stom-
ach. causing the formation Of gas and
acics. Wind disterds the stomach. and
auses that fuN. oppressive feeling
-opeumes known ng heartburn " mic
no acid irritates and inriaInes Tie deli
rate lining Of tho stomach. The iroI,bIs
lies entirely in the fermcnting TOD
such fermentation is unnatural opJ
acid formatio is not only unnatur.I
MT may involve most serious cons.
CIences II not corrected. To sion nr
prevent fermentation Of the food con.
'"nts or the stomach and TO neutraIize
'he acid. and render IT bland and harm-
l"ss a teaspoonful Of bisurated mag
nesia, probably the best and most ef-
fective corrector of acid stomach
known. should be taken in a quarter Of
glass Of hot or cold water immediately
after eating, or whenever wind or acid
II! is felt. This stops the fermentation,
nnd neEtralizes the acidity in a few mo-
ments. Fermenta ton. wind and actdity
are dangerous and unnecessary. Stop
or prevent them by the use of proper
sntacid, such as b!surated magnesia
which can be obtained from any drug
Eist and thus enable the stomach to do
is work properly without being hin
dered bv poisonous gas and dangerous
sGids.-M. T. P.-Advt.
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
COSMOS.

Genuine amusement is the. keynote of
the Cosmos Theater bill this week in
which the cabaret revue. Thirty Min
utes on Broadway" Is a big feature.
The cast includes viii Stanton. Rosa
lind May. Jean Perry. Louise Hoerger,
Laughter and applause are constant dur
ing ffie act. Another amusing playlet Is
't1Santy's Legacy; by Grace Beebe and
company. Hamilton Brothers offer a
novel skit which shows clever acrobatic
tumbling. White and Knowles feature
clever character dancing, and John j..
O'Brien scored success with new
songs and stories. The Omega Duo. with
4 good character comedian, contribute
the sixth act. The Hearst-Selig News
Pictorial heads the film features: a
change of bill is announced for Thurs
day at the matinees.
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
GAYETY.

buriesque patrons old friend. Pat
White. and his capable company of
cornely girls and comedians. are at the
Gayety this week. The Offering is in
TWO parts, and Is styled THE Country
Club. and Casey at the Carnival. -
White plays the part of Casey in both
acts. and is one of the most amusing
Irish comedians Washington has seen in
a long time. Jack Davis, Tommie
O'Neil and James McInerrev are otbsr
members of the cast whose work is
good. O'NeiPs dancing on roller skates
being one of the hits of the per
formance. =
Red Feather. an Indian ,prima donna.
heads the feminine contingent, and her
voice won her the honors of the per
formance. Her Indian song in the sec
ond act was a gem. Lanier De Wolf
has the soubrette role, and is much I'M
evidence in both acts. The chorus is
wen drilled, and Is above the average
in ability.
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
CASINO.

The Great American Story Teller
Frank Bush, not heard in Washington
for five years Is the big feature at the
Casino Theater this week. Laughter
and applause testified the hit he made
yesterday. 4 pantomime acrobatic
comedy Is offered by Maglin. Eddy and
company. Pretty songs by Lillian
Glynn: Our Country Cousin" by Frank
Jones. and Lillian Walton and McIn-
tyre and Hardy in songs. dances. and
an amusing dialogue are also in the bill.
Floral souvenirs were given women pat
rons. and tonight. Thur sday, and Sat
urday nights the country store will be
given. with the surprise party Wednes-
day night and the amateurs ) Friday
night.
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
CRANDALL'S.

The opening night of the week at
Crandalrs was Essanay night in very
truth. with Francis Bushman at the
door Of the theater in person to greet
the patrons. and Wallace Beery on the
stage to make a pretty speech during
the performance. Mr.. Bushman was
given an ovation when he was recoG-
nized by the hundreds who saw him
and was forced to hold an impromptu
reception, which he modestly had tried
to avoid. Mr.. Beery's speech was a
gem, and gave the man who plays
.Sweedie" a tfBser place in the hearts
of his frfends-if that is possible The
principal feature was Northern
Lights" which wifi be shown again to-
day and tomorrow; The other attrac-,
ton seen Yesterday were THE Potter
and the Clay" featuring Marion Sais
Thursday and Friday the picture will
be The House Next Door" by I.
Hartley Manners, author of Peg O'My
Heart
Saturdays performance will include
THE Pirates Revenge" Did He Save
Her" and Between One and Two"
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
IF BILIOUS, SICK
. DEMONSTRATED.
TAKE CASCARETS
No headache, bad cold, sour
stomach or costive bowels
by morning.
Get a l0-cent box now.


You're bilious, You have a throb-
bing sensation in your head. q bad
taste In your mouth, your eyes burn.
your skin Is yellow, with dark rings
under your eyes: your lips are
parched. No wonder you feel ugly,
mean and ill-tempered. Your system
Is full of bile not properly passed of.
and what you need is a cleaning up
inside. Don't continue being a bilious
nuisance to yourself and those who
love you. and don't resort to harsh
physics that irritate and injure. Re-
member that most disorders of the
stomach, liver and bowels are cured
by morning with gentle. thorough
Cascarets-they work whilLlyou sleep.
A 10-cent box from your druggist will
keep your liver and bowels clean;
stomach sweet. and your head clear
for months. Children love to take
Cascarets because they taste good and
never gripe or sicken.-Advt-
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
POLI'S.

The production of The Squaw Man,
bv the Poli Players yesterday was of the
high standard that seems to haV" be-
come the rule at the popular STOCK
house For several weeks past there
has seemed to be an idea in the mind
of the director that each production
must excel the one that has gone be-
fore in point of massiveness, and the
number of people on the stage. In THE
Squaw Man" the limit of possibilities In
a stock house would seem to have been
reached.
Carl Brickert iE given one of his big
gest opportunities in the part of Jim
Carston. and he realizes them better
than in most Of the things he has done.
The part of Diana to which Jane Nor
gan is assigned, is comparatively n small
role, but the new leading woman con-
tirmed the impression she made IN her
first appearance by the grace and ease
with which she filled all the require
ments,
The play this week served to intro
duce a new member of the company,
Herbert Dobbins, in the part of Cash
Hawkins. Mr.. Dobbins made favor.
able Impression and his future work Will
be watched with interest. In the char
acter of the little Indian maid, Marie
of character work that has been seen
on the Poll stage for months.
Despite the sparsity of lines, she pre-
sentcd type of the Indian girl that left
nothing TO be desired. William Corbett.
also made a profound impression rs the
Indian chief The remainder VI the com
pzrry, including little Bobie Eaton. who
played Hal, was quite up to the stand
ard. Because cf illness in his family.
Clifford Robertson. who is on the pro-
gram as playing the part of Henry
Wynnegate. was unable to appear and
George Darrell was given the role.
Stage Director Harry Andrews as
sumed the part Of the sheriff for which
Mr.. Darrell had been originally cast.
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
COLUMBIA.

'Neptune's Daughter" one Of the most
unusual photoplays ever produced in
Washington began its second week 8
run at the Columbia. with performances
in both afternoon and evening If
Yesterdays audiences are a fair criter-
ion the second week will be as success
full as the first If not more so. Two
performances will be given daily. and
this film featuring Annette Kellerman
portrays all her claims to fame as the
premier diving Venus She is aided
by bevy of other mermaids and sea
folk who as whole enact before an
aquatic camera an unusual play with
many and brilliant changing scenes.
The Washington times., 1914-09-22
Rockefeller Is Not Like
Samson, Declares Barber

cEEVEiIAND,> Ohio Sept. 22-"The
John D. Rockefeller 1 knew-the one
who wore mustache-was kind
man"
Thomas Hayes, barber, who shaved OF
the oil magnate's mustache in July,
1906, does not believe that operation
changed Rockefellers temperament. if II
has been changed.
"You know. Samson never was the
saane after Delilah cut his hair" II was
suggested .-r4- -ysr
|! Hayes went to. Rockefellers home
every morning for ten years to shave
him before breakfast And he always
was goed-natured and pleasant" said
the berber. When he shaved OF the oil
kings mustache Mr.. Rockefeller put it
in an envelope.