New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-09-13
Rr REssIE AsCOUeR.

,,.hine. Never thnk, hss the famous Cote
-. Rssoues looked more superb, Never were
On the Grande PLACE more imposing.
this terrible war cloud has cast gloom over
-, = elsewhere, many very pretty costumes are
y - an the Grande PLACE and in the fashionable
,,s Al the hour of 'le 1--WE o'clock II is inter-
- J, study these ystumes closely, for they many
.s... renressnt the fashions of tomorrow. These
- hsv. been created by those Paris dressmakers
n ,,,lors of worldwide fame who have decided TO
.oe0 IN spite of war. and il is very pleasant to
-, that they are for the greater part free from
.-.,rs,ion and charmingly simple in outline.
Z, certain that the fashions OF the coming winter
,-.s.nt few difficulties those who like to arrange
- .o,,ns At home, or to have expensive models
- bv dressmakers and tailors who do not charge
~say high prices.
skirts Arc StifeRed with GOndOline
-, ,1bop.t,e of the winter will be supremey grace,
!, n. new long coats which already begin to be
'..,,nv worn, are almost universally becoming, and
= l,s.st skirts are ample at the hem, without sug-
STAG the dreaded crinolne.
: certainly true that many of the more elaborate
s-noon gowns show tunics-and even skirts--whieh
u. hem slightly stHened at the hem with gondoline.
a. then this ribbon is supple and light that it does
!. s;ve anything approaching an eccentric outline
-rs staened at the hem with gondone does not fare
= more than does muslin collar of the Medici order
-Osrhaps hardly so much.
A New RanprOOf Velvet.
A vsrv smart coat is made of material which will
.5subtedIy be much favored when the late autumn
-, arrive This Is a kind of velvet, which is
"a 70 be ranproof and which looks exactly like silk
v, while made. in the greater part, of cotton. 1t is
ot Of glorihsd velyeteen and the Paris dressmakers
- usng if freely for coats of the order indicated and
sso for loose wraps.
N. model speak OF had quite jersey outline The
neral was supple velvet in beautiful shade o. rose
adder and was finished with large horn buttons in
A. same color Then there the inevitable sash in
of black silk and the lining Of the coat was OF ponsee
This style OF garment is in great favor at IrouVlle'
swell as Barrtz this season. Fashionable Parisennes
z coats of this kind with careless grace, and 1t IS
h.r habit to throw on such garments over any and
ssv hind of gown-linen, taFeta muslin even lace.
ss year similar coats were very generally worn in
ssb Jersey materias, but the velvet above described
o. Of the leading novelties of the present season.
surface this velvet has very slight rib, and it is
wonderfully supple.
Picturesque Are the Louis XIV Coats.
Another picturesque coat of the latest design, which
y hall find made of serge and velvet little later on
4 the year is a modified Louis XIV coat, and model
uhch is essentially becoming. In some cases large
pockets, with. important looking flaps, are added but
Is is matter for individual taste to decide. Dark
I'd 'gOlhne" coats will be very fashionable.
have seen one or two admirable models which
LASTED waist belts made of glove kid, and buttons
aIEed with the same Supple glove kid is also being
ny much used for collars and revers and some OF tns
maTtest Paris canoters covered with TINS soIt
aher. For the seaside or country, golhne coats IN
uong rich colors give delightful results. Ihey arc
@ texture and yet quite warm; and they look VeiY
ahactye when worn over pleated skirts in fine serge
Illustrated here is one OF these coats in bright green
Ehue Falling from the shoulders to the knees in full
Dos. freedom it is beautifully comfortable and service
De for the large belt is more of an establishment
la construction two broad straps fasten over it.
tonng the roomy side pockets, with large self-cov-
s buttons and fastening in front by means OF large
H.bucke Large disks button the coat at the side
0t fasten the high tutned-over collar that stands
away from the neck, sloping in front to sort Of
" and fasten the deep cuffs The raglan sleeves are
abask, meeting the edge of the collar.
Smart and quite impervious to the wind is the small
'his felt hat worn with this coas narrow brim
aPs down at the right and rolls up toward the right
ID back, revealing a good part OF the head Wound
Praly around the fairly high crown is heavy green
aohs antique ribbon Offset at the elimination by
nal white feather swirl,
The return of simp, hesdgear is Characteristic OF the
afs Paris is evncing to meet the ezigencies OF war
ms IA q sensible spirit.
All ExaggeratiOn In Dress Avoided Now.
feeling that all exaggerahon In dress should be
sd now is extended to millinery, and just as black
ws is being favored for dresses, 50 It is tor hats
Sns Of the newest Paris models would certainly
we becoming to American girls, The original model
g nut brown corded sill, with border OF SOFT IN
GO feathers bordering the wide, slightly Cropping
and little cluster of feathers standing erect 81
nds The medium height crown was domed' ano
ak sngirdling it was arranged in bias bands which
q pretty folded effect
9a' hat it is suggested would be useful # made Of
s satin or black Ottoman silk, with the border OF
usss, and large instead Of the cluster OF tips
would look we'll in black chiffon velvet, with
s Of white satin, and the feathers al black.
ne most popular hat Of the present autumn is hai
.ansd sailor shape made Of white or pastel tinted
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