Evening journal., 1914-05-09
A Practical House Dress Of Sturdy
Ratine with Hemstitched Linen
Collar and CUFFS.

They are usually in soft straw, and
trimmed with velvet ribbon and
! brightly-colored flowers in such a
way that their sugar-scoop silhouette
is not lost. This hat is meant to be
worn well over the face. the high
French twist of the hair appears to
cause this tilt; but bandeau at the
back, covered with ribbon or massed
flowers, also holds the hat aloft;
while a band of velvet or flowers Of
ten extends around the head below
the twist, keeping the hat securely
I'm place.
The Louis XVI placQues are being
looked at and admired. but many
women feel that they are not be-
coming, and can be worn only with
dainty frilled' frocks whose access
sOries correspond with them This
style Of hat with a tailored suit
would scarcely be in good taste.
The iaunty all-black hat is the
smartest for general wear. Colored
hats are both beautiful and chic, but
for practical use they lack the dis
tinction of the black hat. There are
few leghorn hats worn, for this is
straw which is always modish. No
matter what straw or what type Of
hat. they are pretty sure to fare
abruptly at the side; and in order
that it may fit the head comfortably,
bandeau of the straw is fastened to
that side. The close-iStng round
hat, having a high crown, with or
without a straight narrow brim, is in
vogue. These are trimmed with
wings, flowers, and fruits, the favor
ties being grapes and cherries.
Taffeta and moire ribbon, and a
shiny satin ribbon with a patent
leather finish, are used extensively in
4 trimming the morning or tailor-made
hat Tete de negre Is used a great
deal on black hats, and is very prac-
tical for the everyday hat, as the
dusky brown goes with almost every
thing.
! The style which most fashion ex-
perts believe to be among the smart
\ est for summer wear is the long
tunic, or Dutch underskirt, which
shows about eight inches below the
bottom of the tunic. A most striking
suit which / have just seen is en- this
type of gown. The difference being
/ that the tunic does not quite come
] AbStAItA III Nitt bfAh AhAAQ 10 AhtAN7
\ fore more of an apron than a tunic
I This skirt is Of Russian stripes over
an underskirt of blue gabardine. The
gabardine jacket, of kimono cut, has
narrow sleeves, and the rounded back
drops below the waistline and slants
up to point over the chest, where
it is fastened with a single button
This is worn over a moire silk waist
coat with a large, faring collar. The
striking little hat which was worn
with this costume was divided into
thirds. with a straight quill stand
ing upright from each third.
For my first illustration this week
/ have chosen a simple and stylish
frock for morning and house wear
The material used is a notified laven-
der and white ratine, a fabric which
is woven one way of the goods with
a rough. knotted cord, which giyes
the whole fabric an uneven surface
This material has widely taken the
place of pique and linen for dresses
and separate cotton skirts, as 1t is
much easier TO launder If carefully
( hung and pulled while wet, It is not
necessary to iron ii at all The rag
| Ian sleeves OF the model, and the
surplice-closing waist are as simple
to make as the skirt, whose practical
! adornments ~rA tha two hin-pockets