The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-10-18
n, CLAUDE CHERys.

L Formal order would be ccnsid-
cred impossible during the war,
q IL also true that there are many de-
rrbtful meetings Of friends and rela-
,tye. IN the famous Chateaux. This is
me chateau season.
In ordinary circumstances every one
z,ud now be talking OF hunting.
ryerv one would he enjoying long days
=, ,ho open air. In the midst Of gay
,-,-rnpn.ons. and long nights in vast
b.l,r1oms The chateau season in
YEA. Is one Of the most delightful pc
,as II the whole year. The immense
Country houses which are th.ckly scat
cared all over France are always crowd
vi to OVERLOOKING in the months OF
nctohc- and November. II Is the sea-
ION when friends meet and discuss the
harms VI various smart seaside re-
rte IL g the season when the posi-
Mites ~ the winter are definitely
.ensidcred But this year all is
hanged.
There are no Frenchmen left to take
rart In the hunting. The pheasants
are enjoying unwonted immunity. The
hounds are growing fat in the kennels.
me horses. even valuable racers. are
Al, At the front with their masters. And
80 II happens that the chateau season
%, 1914 is robbed of It's masculine ele-
nent
But that does not say that the tot
;.ttes worn in the French country
houses are not quite as original and at
.ractive as in former years. French
women. perhaps more than any other
feminine creatures, dress for their own
private satisfaction. They really love
heautiful and suitable clothes: the art
II dress is to them n refreshing study.
Herein lies the real secret Of the Pa
rIsenne's success. She is always per-
fectly, that is to say. suitably. dressed,
whether she is alone in her own boudoir,
or In her loge at the opera on the occa-
SION Of gala performance.
Now that so many prominent society
women are engaged in working for
me soldiers. very delightful reunions
are held in the various chateauX.
Friends meet together to discuss work
actually in hand and to organize relief
missions for the thousand of unfor-
innate women and children who have
been left homeless and helpless because
y the war. The work TO be done by
those who remain at home Is endless:
md unhappily It increases every day
Some OF the most famous mondaines
n France are devoting their whole time
% these necessary works Of mercy: one
u these il the Vicomtesse d'Origny
who is as we'll known at Trouville AND
Rarritz as in Partisan society. TIL,
NicomteSse is very tall and graceful
IN dazzling complexion and masses
~ red gold hair. She is famous for heI
'as,e in dress and has genius in The
matter Of choosing the right gown fol
he right occasion. Recently she anC
Nmo Edmond Rostand-the poetcss
Rosemonde Gerard-have been Yer!
much occupied in finding work fol
women who have been left penniless h!
ne happenings Of the war.
Nine. Rostand, who is as practical a
she l. spirituelle, has organized a splen
I'D relief mission in the vicinity Of he
country house at Cambo and recent!
chn l.,
guests were women keenly interestc,
N the good work. Some exquisite gown
we're worn at this entertainment ant
a. ! know that the readers of THE ST.,
are az present interested in simple eve
ming toilettes | have sketched tn
dresses worn by Nine. d'Origny an,
Nine. Rostand
No l in my group of two fig
nreS shows an ideal dinner gown com
posed Of soft oyster-white chiffon. Tn
beautifully draped tunic was caught NJ
nv wreath Of pinkish purple rose
and the undersklrt was made %
back mirror velvet. The corsage wa
deOU.letc, back and front, but there wer
iong quite transparent sleeves. and
1chu drapery over the shoulders whic
was specially effective. a wreath o
Toses-the flowers were all made q
chron and China silk-contined tn
'o'dS OF material at the waist.
This gown would make a delightful
restaurant toilette If dainty guimp
~ real lace We're introduced and tn
costume accompanied by a picture ha
In detail II was exceptionally simple
nut the clever way in which the Chiffo
'nnic and the Corsage were draped sup
Piled cachet of superior order
Nine. Rostand always dresses in
erV personal style. Her gowns are eX
'eed'ngly artistic and beautiful in ma
Nrlal and outline: but the special pOin
connected with them Is this: each gov
= specially designed for the pOetes
herself. II Is not merely heautifl
gown II is a beautiful gown which Ia
'''0 created for the sole purpose ,
enhancing the charm of beautifi
woman And this is as it should 10
Nn"n q woman has the courage {. b.
'haF,dual n matters Of dress she ~
'ah"n many steps in the direction Z
''m" I'ut there must be no hcsIta ion
woman who wishes to max" q su
'"-~ II individual dressing must hay
~" courage Of her ideas. She must Il,
''''"r ll he way.
''r'aniy Nine. Edmond ROstand hH
''' courage Of her ideas in all things
N'.| specially in matters of dress. ~
p' 'Hr"squ" toilette which ha>
tol was something between