davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

Where the question of woman's- dress is
concerned there is perhaps no more inter
esting feature than the study OF color.
for year by year we realize more fully
what an immense scope there is for arts-
tic skill i'm this direction and what a real
delight the production OF beautiful color
schemes can be.
Look back through the past decades
and notice how greatly ideas on this par
ticular subject have varied. says The
London Globe" Early in the fourteenth
and fifteenth centuries the dress OF the
day was more wonderful in its combina-
tons OF rich hues than at any other
time The Renaissance period brought
with il the use OF puppies and reds, and
lovely tones OF green and brown that
were lavishy used for the fur-edged ana
beiewelled robes Of the great ladies and
the embroidered doublets OF the gentlemen,
while from Italy came the exquisite bro
cades and stamped velvets that were
manufactured in Florence and Venice,
more beautiful I'm color and design than
any material that had ever before been
seen. and which with all our modern
knowledge we still copy faithfully and
find as lovely as anything Of present-day
workmanship.
Later on came the delicate silks and
satins Of Georgian days, with new tones
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
NEW COLORS IN MODERN DRESS

of mauye. blue and pink that originated
in France, and the combination Of al
kinds Of soft shades. especially grays and
dull blues. that for over a hundred years
held their place i'm favor with both men
and women.
Eventually there arrived the early Vic
toran era. with its crude tones OF red.
greens and yellows. and the use OF much
black and the weaving OF dress materials
that are almost an eyesore 10 twentieth
century notions. but 10 which all the
same We are indebted for much that We
admire to-day.
The post impressionsm OF the art world
Is responsible FOR many OF our color
schemes to-day. just as the Raphael
lite school originated the cult OF red hair
and the green and clnging gown. We
clothe ourselves according to the latest
notions that advancing civilization brings
In its train. and chop and change from
one theory 10 another until one can only
wonder what next" and wait with mild
establishment for the latest freak Of
fashion.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
A GLIMPSE OF THE FUTURE-IF1E SPRING HATS

The sailor is the real rival 10 the draped
turbans, and for women with large feat
ures, as the average American woman
has, they are more generally becoming
than the extravagantly high toques. with
outstanding brims. which endeavor TO out
strip the trimmings in their heavenward
fight. 1t has been revived in its original
small shape and with many notifications.
Caroline Reboux is one of the authorities
who is making a black sailor on the
familiar lines. There is little that Is
reminiscent in the trimming. however, for
the fiat rosette is perched right on the top
of the centre of the crown. and ribbon, an
inch in width, is drawn fatty down the
sides and over the brim, giving an effect
similar to the spokes Of cartwheel.
From either side OF the rosette a pear
shaped, cut jet hairpin raises its head.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
COLLARS.

Though lace be lavshly introduced into
the gown. il is not used for the collar to-
day. Instead. the plain nets. organizes
and fine linens are used. These collars
pass under various names, such as the
Gladstone. the Norman, the Briton, etc.
but all OF them are cut on the general
lines of the Medci The sharp point at
the sides, however make them look quite
different from the curved ruches OF the
winter. To get this pronounced flare at
the back and at the sides wiring on
liberal scale is resorted to. Some are
attached 10 little vests or guimpes, but
MANY are merely tackled TO either side of
the neck OF the frock.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
GIRpLEs, TAssELs AND JET.

On many Of the new evening gowns
tsssels are playing a prominent role
They are ideal weights for draperies, and
yet they have 4 decorative value. cspe-
cially those that reflect beads Of many
colors The jet tassels answer so well
the demand for cut jet that they are be-
ing used in many ways. COrdlike girdles
Of Jet and heads give classic air 70
many evening gowns in which the simple
Greek lines have been retained
Medici collars Of silver lace, ostrich
ruching, jewelled grdles, velvet flowers
and lace decorated with strass and silver
or sold threads are a few OF the meth
DDS by which quality is made the feature
Of tie present day evening gowns.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

nose evening dresses can't cost
o. - remarked the bachelor at a
s5 In IN Dthere is SO little Of them.
~ - S' yos know about IT," shifted the
w. nan. 1T isn't quantity that
arr, -. quality in woman's dress.
O. - - ewes unconsciously sought tho
- - 80 which he had sent check IN
=. ssgres early in the morning
= - there IS very little quantity
-, when the most elaborate even
y, =. consis, OF a breadth Of material
: y - .,ound the figure and a corsage OF
Ru, there is surely quality when
,-,s6,h IS from a fabric splendid
: ~ any modern Cleopatra, elis-
vi,h silver and with gold tracery'
.v.- n is hung a tunic strewn with
"a, ~ semi-precious stones. Though
..-s,se NAV be a mere yelling Of tube
Il IS hung with fostoons Of gilt
:, haubles. 10 is doubtful II evening
.,-r,s have ever been more sumptuous'
=. might add more costly.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
WAIST LINE is LOST.

The straight lines so pronounced in the
modern silhouette are accentuated by the
wide girdles, which are loosely draped
around the figure. More and more atten-
ton is being paid 10 the drapng Of these
Crdles, for in their arrangement lies
much Of the style of the gown As if to
make the waist look broader and bigger
than nature even intended it to be.
pleated ruche fares forth from the top
If the girdle. AS this is very often fash
Toned from taffeta, the flare is very pro-
bounced and all semblance to waist line
& lost
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

Before Jack Frost had an opportunity
TO give the ears a good nip the harbin-
gers Of fashion had appeared on the ave-
nue. in the first spring hats. The very
contrariness of womens natures makes
them delight i'm extremes. and straw hats
in January amuse them as furs in July
did. The milliners recognize this falling
il it. be rated a weakness-and dress up
their windows with the most springlike
and appealing creations just when the
winter hats are beginning to lose their
novelty. Even if l can't go South" the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
RIBBON TRI M inning.

Another solution to the problem, prof
fered by the law putting the ban on
aigrettes and other feathery ornaments, Is
found in ribbons. And the ingenuity dis
played by the designers of hats in fash
Joining ribbon mounts is truly worthy of
comment. Until the law went into effect
ribbons were never taken seriously. They
were used to a certain extent each sea-
son. but their possibilities were never de-
veloped To-day the different designers
are wing with one another in originating
methods of using the new ribbons. One
milliner takes narrow black MORE ribbon
and places row upon row as the trimming
of the underbrim Of hat which is pitched
at more of an angle than the mortar
board of the college cap Another uses
similar form of decoration for her new
sailor The crown of this sailor is on
the order OF derby, and this she COW
ers with rows of slightly gathered black
MORE ribbon. Resting on the narrow,
straight brim both in the front and in the
back, there is a tiny bouquet OF o!d-fash
toned posles in the soft colorings. AS a
relief from the aeroplane hats OF absurd
height it promises much.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

They are in harmony with the general
movement toward simplicity which is the
motif OF the miHiner this year. whether
it be simplicity of outline or of trimming.
1t cannot be claimed that the idea or
quilts is a new one, for they have been
used on the saucy little white corduroy
hats for several weeks, but they do give
an air Of dash and go TO the little toques
and turbans that cannot be acquired so
easily with any other trimming. good
deal of individuality can be displayed in
the posing Of these quilts, preferably the
couteau type, for fashion has decreed no
definite position. As the front trimmings
are a bit newer than the back, many are
crossed in the front, but when they are
more becoming shooting out in distinctive
angles from the side they are so adjusted.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
TULLE AS FOUNDATION.

For the foundation of the corsage
tulle, even more than lace. is favored,
especially flesh colored tulle. The effect
is naturally startling How could it be
otherwise. when the tulle takes on the
tints Of the flesh and the effect is that OF
semi-nude woman? To see a woman
wearing one OF these tulle corsages when
she is seated al table is to gasp with
establishment, and yet Nine. Grundy has
not been able 10 call a halt. These flesh
colored transparent waists are appearing
even on the afternoon frocks intended for
Suriur
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
MORE AND TAFFETA.
HATS IN WINTER STYLES.

This combination Of straw with tafeta,
MORE or velvet. is not looked upon as a
compromise for the intermediate hat, but
As a feature Of the spring headgear which
IS TO be continued on the hats for the
warm weather. or the three materials
just mentioned. the consensus of opinion
is that MORE will be the favorite. Velvet.
it is said is being sighted by the leading
milliners OF Paris in favor Of MORE, and
taffeta. ii is feared. will become too COM
monplace. An unusually good-looking hat
of black hemp had a rounded crown of
the MORE. The brim of this hat is turned
up all around, lending the effect Of height
now so desirable. and the trimming con-
sisted of two long. narrow quilts crossing
each other in the front.
ly used on these carly spring models.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
SKIRTS.

u -'e''heeled French slipper is being
y ~, io' the low-hceled ballet slip
-. 1'he' by the tango enthusiasts.
!. ,ae Is TINS effect more notice.
So. 'N the gown itself. The tango
'<a !, responsible Tor the additional
s.v.. '@''s. whether this width Is
= 49, . Touserlike arrangoment of
h - OF 0y the insertion OF
.sr a.. s'''e which peeps out from be-
~ h N'Spinss Of the skirt. And by
ga ~. considered the dominant fac
et sag about the downfall OF the
x i.,,. The minsrct tunic IN modi-
feature OF the nov after
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
,lnaAlNs IN THE SHOPS.

81, a. ,hs woman who requires one or
:. evening gowns TO complete her
.,.o,s there are interesting bargains
4, ssops. II is compulsory that the
:, clear out their winter stocks 10
=, oorr for the new models. And the
-,.s, and most satisfactory method is
~ tbem AZ very much reduced prices.
-. ~. women who dress well on a
- INCOME insist that Il Is well worth
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
ELABORATE sODIcES.

The bodice is again receiving the atten-
ton Of the designers Though II is quite
as transparent as ever, II is being moro
deliberately trimmed. Curious pieces OF
lace and hand embroidery are worked
into the fat foundation. Real lace IL
used TO mark the lines which simulate
the bolero and vestee effects. Various
ARRANGEMENTS OF the vest front are
shown. One idea displays the surplice
drapipg Of the bodice. with a pointed or
rounded tab allowed to fall over the
draped girdle OF silk. 1t is In this girdle
that the color note is struck, and In the
Arrangement Of it that much OF the chic
OF the gown lies. The latest fancy IN
Paris is to introduce two contesting colors
in the draped girdle. girdle OF the
material of the gown is another new
within. and one which should be looked
into by the short women or one with an
abundance of flesh, for, as rule. 1t does
rot cut the figure the girdle OF con-
trasting color and fabric is bound to do.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

Glycerine is a good lubricant for the
meat or vegetable grinder, because IL
does not leave an unpleasant odor II
brought in contact with the meat
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
ANOTHER VIEW.
ssa.s view OF the pink tsffeta gown
in large sketch.

10 10 buy a winter suit al this season
ne year. there can be no doubt OF the
ability OF purchasing an evening
~ under even more favorable condi-
r. for an evening frock has practically
sason The dress that you can buy Tor
80 to-day the same frock that a
= o. Two ago was priced at $50 10 $40
can wear an summer. Even velvet,
tsfio considered a winter material. is
; worn on the street and for evening
rs curing the coming season.
'.Ns GOOD FOR TWO SEASONS.
81 won't these reduced gowns go out
Wef the woman OF fashion may
y And 10 this query the answer in
isih may Boo. Not beyond redemp-
The STYLES Of to-day are not
tss1 radically every season. and the
y OF yesterday may become the frock
a-iay with but very few alterations.
a. evening gown these changes are
no 20 the minimum. not because
very little 10 change. but because
oiaped creations are not distinctive
any one period.
NE present time the tango is exert
y mmistskable influence on evening
'e' IN Tact. one could truthfully say
h' taure evening toilet, for the
''I this form Of dancing has done
Win many Of the elaborate head
Even at the opera. for which
generally bedeck themselves with
"'Ht contents Of their Jewel boxes.
mission Of the priceless tiara is
comment II is impossible 10
" comfort II one is wearing
's@ That scratches or tickles the
" ones partner. and as tangoing
"'-eoenee over an conventions this
~ uaTa and feathery fantasy must
az home on tho evenings when
song 20 be soirte dansante al
ne Performance.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
e.. Fashions Latest Whims &
SOFT EFFECTS
FOR SPRING
Jewelled Bodices, Embroid-
cred Nets, and Wide FLAIR
ing Collars Used.

Even IL one does not expect 10 seek an
early season in the land OF flowers and
bamy breezes. II is not bit too soon 70
plan for the spring wardrobe. The shops,
gay with the new cotton and silk ma
terials. are sending forth a siren call. and
the wise woman will heed it and be glad
One never feels so discouraged over
clothes as during the first warm days,
when one finds ones self without any new
costume. II is strange, but one can
wear summer costumes well into the cold
months without this hopeless, helpless
feeling that simply overpowers one In the
spring when the right clothes arc not az
hand There is only one way 20 avoid IT,
and that is TO take the ounce of proven
tlon and be prepared.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

Embroidered articles should ne oriea
quickly and ironed on the wrong SIDE
Philadelphia Record.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

SD ST, $50, BROOkLIN.-W Wanted. couple
desiring nice home for Winter or longer
all privileges and conveniences; owner living
alone can offer very unusual conditions
very private. Phone 8272W South or ad-
dress 4. NJ. Hendrickson.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
oIIAITTY BUT NOT
QUANTITY IN GOWNS
Perhaps. Has So Little Material Been Re-
.;rud for Womens Clothes, but to Offset
This Seeming Low Cost of Living" Come
the Fabulously Expensive Materials.

noon and evening gowns. but the stiff.
lampshade affair that was first introduced
has been doomed 10 the discard. And
why? Have you ever watched any one
try 10 tango in one OF these wired or
stihened TUNES? The answer is: 1T can't
be done"
INSTEAD OF WIRED TUNICs.
In its place there are lovely soft TUNES
OF various shapes and lengths. some
hanging full from the waist, others IN
pleats, and many edged with ruffles and
ruchings. Though the wired tunic may be
doomed. the soft. crushable pufiings' and
ruchings, which do not interfere during
the dance. will be permitted TO stay. And
these styles will be exploited in the new
models.
II the corsage is cut very low. is very
fat and is very transparent IT has full
filled all the demands of fashion. Oc-
casionally one sees sleeves-some smartly
dressed women even wearing long chif-
ION or tulle sleeves. which extend over the
hands-but, as a rule the merest apollo
cies for sleeves answer all requirements,
and even they are often omitted. on
these gowns. however. there is generally
a scarf Of tulle floating off into space.
and invariably there are quantities OF
out Of ten OF the new frocks sparkle with
cut Jet, and the sequins and jet beads of
the past can be unwrapped and worn with
the satisfaction that comes from the pos
session Of the latest fad
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18

woman OF fashion argues. Il can ENJOY
the first spring hats" And straightaway
she slips into the first shop where the
flowers in the straw hats nod In invita-
ton.
HATS IN WINTER STYLES.
Even the fashions are In league Win
the milliners in this conspiracy to make
women cheat the seasons, for the transi-
ton from a winter hat TO a summer one
is made easy by combining features from
both. Though for instance, a woman
might hesitate TO appear I'm straw nat
decked with flowers. she would be per-
fectly willing to wear hat In which vel
vet ana straw had been combined. TINS
idea was cleverly developed in one Of the
draped turbans which did not look start
ingly new. because the shape was not UNI
like tie draped turban Lewis brought out
early in the winter. II was not until one
caught glimpse OF the mauve Tagal
facing of the brim that its springlike
quality was discernible. for the draped
crown. which reached TO a considerable
height at the left side. was OF black vel
70
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
EMBROIDERED NETS.

After the velvet gowns OF the winter
the dainty little embroidered nets are
very appealing, and the gowns that may
be made now can be worn all summer.
for net frocks are sure to be very much
la mode this coming season. Follow
ing the demand for transparent Effects
these nets will be combined with lace,
and two and three varieties of laces Will
be shown on the same gown. Taffeta and
the other silks are also combined with
these nets, and a gown OF this type could
be n,orn to the theatre at any time.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
NO WIRING.

None OF the tunics are wired. for the
threatened invasion Of the hoopskirt IS
bogie Of the past. but they take on vari-
Gus shapes and drapings. Two and three
tuncs are often added. the upper ons
falling to the hips and the others TO vari-
Gus becoming lengths. The upper tunic
NAV be pouched and continued TO the
bodice in the form Of an outstanding IT'LL
a new idea that is appealing TO young
girls and NATIONS with very slender ng-
ures. Other TUNES are adjusted 10 hip
yoke, while many appear only at the
sides. or in the back, where they are
punched up in Premet fashion. The latest
within in this direction is the tulle hustle
the tulle being introduced In some way
into the drapery of the skirt and carried
10 the hack
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1914-01-18
THICK SET WAISTS.

AS soft. supple fabrics. like net and
taffeta, lend themselves in an ideal man
ner to flounces and tunics, these styles
are sure 10 be developed further for the
spring. One very effective dress, which
has just been taken out from its tissue
paper nest, has draped pannier or a
mauve pink taffeta. This reaches very
much lower on the left side, giving
broken line that is becoming to all hg-
ures and shows an underskirt consisting
OF three tiers Of the embroidered net
nouncing. The draping continues to the
bodice. giving the thickest appearance TO
the waist line, which is now considered
mark of style and beauty. The upper
part OF the blouse is of the net simply
gathered into little round neck, and the
sleeves are very full Thoughts OF the
balloon sleeves Of the past fit across the
mind when looking at them.
Morris tribune., 1914-03-13

The above trade mark has been
adopted by the West Central Mime.
sofa Development Association and will
be used in specially watermarked sta
tioneTy, literature and in other ways.
It sets forth the objects of the AS
sociation in emphatic fashion and ex.
plains why the fifteen counties affiliat-
ed in this movement are attracting
nation wide attention.
Broadly interpreted, the trade mark
means that the Association is at the
peoples service in forwarding every
movement to grow better corn, alfalfa,
livestock, men and women, co-opera-
tion, and everything that will make
for better farming, better business
and better living. 1t is high stan
dard, but the people of West Central
Minnesota are awake and are proving
that what they dare to dream Of
dare TO do.''
Morris tribune., 1914-03-13
Students Club.

The annual business meeting of the
Students Club was held at the home
of Mrs. C. A. Dushek on Monday sf-
ternoon, Mar. 9th. The usual routine
business was transacted and then the
yearly report of the secretary and
treasurer was given. The course of
study forthe ensuing year was discussed
and the subject chosen was "The Liter
ture and Art of Russia. /"
An amendment to the bylaws was
made allowing members necessarily
absent to vote by proxy at the annual
meeting.
Election of officers resulted in the
following named ladies to serve the
coming year: President, Mrs. L. c.
Spocner; Vice President, Mrs. F. A.
Hancock; Secretary, Mrs. J. W.
Harris, Treasurer, Mrs. E. T. Fitz'
gerald.
The guests and members then par
took of bounteous lunch served by
the hostess.
Morris tribune., 1914-03-13
Card of Thanks

We desire to express our sincere
thanks to the many kind friends at
Morris who so faithfully cared for
and attended our darling Clara in her
last illness and death. We especially
desire to thank Mr.. and Mrs. 0. F.
Tewksbury the kind people with whom
Clara made her home for their loving
care during the years she has lived
with them and to all those who sent
the beautiful floral offerings, in general
to all the, Morris people whom she SO
dearly loved. We unite in thanking
them as such kind acts makes our loss
easier to hear.
Mr.. and Mrs. D. A. Mathews,
Breckenridge, MINI.
Mr.. and Mrs. ]. C. Arnold, Seattle,
Wash.
Mr.. and Mrs. W. H. Goodell,
Tacoma, Wash.
Gilbert, Jessie and Harry Goodell,
Buffalo, S. D.
Mr.. and Mrs. F. F. Fuller, Buffalo,
S. D.
Walter Goodell, Minneapolis.
Morris tribune., 1914-03-13
Call for County Mass Meeting
Anti Machine Republicans.

A Mass County Conference, of all
Republican voters who are opposed to
the present state administration, and
the machine controlling the party in
the state, is hereby called for the
County of Stevens to assemble at the
Armory in the City of Morris at one
O'Clock .. m. on Saturday, March Ia.
1914, for the purpose of electing
eight delegates to state conference
to be held at the armory in the City
of Minneapolis, at eleven O'Clock in
the forenoon on Thursday, March 19.
1914. The said State Conference is
called for the purpose of recommend
ing candidate for governor and to
transact such other business as in the
Judgment of the conference may be
desirable.
Dated at Morris. Mimi, this 9th
day of March. 1914.
]. C. Morrison. County Chairman.