davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15
One Seam Blouse a Nouelfy.

THE one seam blouse, novelty that
] has no under arm seam, is very new
and correct, as it has the new sleeve
that shapes down imperceptibly from the
bloused body of the waist to sleeve that
clings tightly around the wrist. An
other new waist shape, opening sometimes
in the back, sometimes in front, has the
slanting yoke. This. starting high ND in
front and back, descends to a depth of
several inches under the arms. The
lower part of the blouse. often made of
taffeta like the yoke, is fulled lightly
into it, and the blouse itself is cut out
enough at the neck to allow for little
vest. The long shoulder yoke that ex-
tends half way down to the elbow has
the blouse fronts gathered into it, and
the back is gathered at the sides and laid
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

gloves, long wristed but not mousque-
taire, left unbuttoned. Reminiscent of
the los is the old fashioned tiny tur-
ban pulled down over the forehead ::
the slender aigrette that rises from the
four leaved gauzy ornament in front is
of extraordinary height. 4 long string
of pearls, broken at intervals by a larger
bright cOlored bead, is worn over the
coat Altogether it is spring toilet
that is ultra-fashionable to its last
modish detail
If, instead of white. an amber col
Ored blouse were chosen, then amber
beads would be worn and butter col
~Ored gloves. With the new Louis XIV.
blue crepe blOuse-for these gay hued
waists come in crtpe. taffeta and linen
turquoise matrix beads could be worn,
but not blue gloves. for yellow gloves
are new fashion while blue are not.
One of thde-cry most recent sensational
girdle lines to come over from Paris is
dropped very low in the back. 1t is
most becoming. In the model. n lovely
silvery pale blue taffeta that makes one
think of moonlight. the whole upper
tunic part of the Fobc is lightly frosted
with silver embroidery. Below this
tunic top a drapcd sash Of matching
torska net ties in big bow at the back.
This bow comes at the top of skirt
slash that is filled in with torska net
petticnat ruffle that is decidedly trans |
parent: one can see that the stockings
are blue when the wcarer takes a back !
ward step. 4 tiny wreath of red roses
catches the bow. giving touch of con-
trasting color. Through the net sash, |
too. the rose pink lining shows family. /,
The girdle. of the gown material. is the
style feature of the dress. 1t is laid in 1
soft folds, is wide in front where it is
placed at the waist line, dropping into a
graceful curve in the back. This gives |
IN especially lovely line in the side
view.
A velvet dress. late winter model. |
has MORE sash that is placed at this |
new long waist line depth. 1t ties in
short loops and ends at the back. The
skirt is caught up into flat puff at one |
tide above the slash; long chenille or
nament drops from the slash top and
'ways with every movement of the
xearer.
Russian green MORE taffeta is used
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15
THE TOILETTE
IS WoMAN'S FRAME, WHILE
THE COUTURE
IS HER AUREOLE.

@F COURSE, there are any number
of really pretty women in Paris,
~ but there are also a great many
who owe their undeniable attrac-
tons to the fact that they are well turned
out and dressed with taste. There are
considerable number Of very attractive
women accustomed to evoke the homage
of admirins eyes wherever they 90, who,
if they were dressed in very ordinary
p clothes. without any style and rather I'M
becoming, would by no means create the
same impression.
To be convinced of this fact it is only
necessary to remember the effect pro-
duced BY a delightful artistic who made
herself up and dressed and did her hair in
such fashion as to make herself appear
the least attractive and the most GRO
tesque of soubrettes-
The toilette is really frame, and the
coiffure is an aureole, and, however beau
tiful a woman may be, she needs the har-
mony of both the frame and the aureols
if she wishes to appear 10 the best adj
vantage.
Both of them are so useful, indeed, that
often they may be substitutes for real
beauty, since they can succeed in giving
the illusion. The present toilettes are SO
varied and the fashion so eclectic that
the smart woman nowadays has the al
vantage of being able to appear always
in something different and novel, and so
avoiding the risk of banality.
According to whether the line is length
enins or clinginS, she is a siren or else
she evokes all the grace Of the eighteenth
century with the short spreading tunic
which recalls the fulness Of the panier.
The dress with the waist line rather high
or that which outlines the hips is worn
in turn, and the simple detail alone is
sufficient to completely alter the person
atty of ones appearance.
II the truth must be told, in order that
all these whims of fashion may be sue
cessfully worn one needs TO possess all
the grace, the charm, the suppleness and
the refined taste of the fashion loving
women Of the twentieth century.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

for an imported dress that boasts of the
new pannier hustle puffs. In just such
way the extreme hustle fashion began
in 1879. Their greatest fulness is at
the back. which gives the hustle tournure
to the skirt. This dress, too, has the
new gay coIored Roman striped ribbon.
II is used for the cuffs and the SirdIe;
the latter defines in a measure the com
ing smaller waist.
The Medici ruffle. which is now re-
placing the Medici collar of last season
advsntageously. decorates the corsage.
This ruffle will probably be used a great
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

deal as finish for taffeta dresses,
lined sometimes with a contrasting hue.
The spiral or corkscrew skirt is most
clever optical illusion; it's folds do not, as
one would expect. wind continuously
around the figure. They simply give that
effect by the diagonal way they are
mounted on the foundation skirt.
A wide sash drapery tying at the hack
in some Of the evening gowns gives a
hustle contour al the back. One of the
latest novelties in evening cloaks is the
addition Of wide satin or chiffon sash
draped over the wrap as n Scotchman
wears his plaid. slung over one shoulder
and tying low at the other side.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

In pleats at the centre back. The sleeves
are generally full from the yoke down,
gathered into ruffle or cuff at the
wrist, wide if plain: it is outlined with
several tiny frills above and below if
narrow Mousseline de sole lined with
the same, net lined with chiffon, taffeta,
plain or embroidered, and crepe de Chine,
plain or figured, are used. Lace Interim
with gold threads over chiffon cloth
foundation makes. perhaps. the most
elaborate waist.
In the tulle and net blouses the seams
are almost always disguised by wide
or narrow lace beading. Over the tulle or
filmy waist little loose bolero coat is
sometimes worn to match the hat color,
a most effective fashion for the Southern
season. These eoatees are often short
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

sleeved and outlined with picot edged
ruches or fur bands. The hat has per
haps an answering touch of fur and
waving plume. This color contrast with
an all white gown is especially striking,
but the coat may be also used to carry
the color of dark skirt onto n white
waist
Many of the morning waists are gain
cred into a yoke top. With such blouse
is combined one of the loosely fitting col
lars cut on one of the many sailor shapes.
The sleeve. set in large shirt armhole,
is gathered irto cuff that is neatly
buttoncl
Jumper effects have also appeared in
blouses made Of wolfe or mousselinc Of
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

the skirt color and posed over net or chif-
Tor chemise shaped foundation of white
or cream. These jumpers are cut out at
the neck heart or square shape, are otter
sleeveless, even showing the under blouse
under the arms; some, however have ell
bow sleeves. These Jumpers are bordered
with fur bands or embroideries of spark
ling spangles or beads or by sewing
round pendant beads along the edges, or
are simply finished by piping. The new
Pickwick collar, its dickey front corners
lightly wired, is very new and smart. On
the simple blouse it is of lawn, double
thickness; on the transparent evening
corsagc, of delicate cream or. ecru wired
lace
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

- been used TO for so many sea-
sons. In many of the latest
models from Paris it is placed at what
is known in dressmaking parlance as
the natural waist line"
This changes the feminine silhouette
1t has already brought about another
fashionable detail-the gradual tighten
ing in of the waist. This is not TO be
seen in all the new suits and gowns.
, Like all advanced fashions it is ultra,
and only for those whose dress allow
ance permits the trying out of novel
ideas.
In some of the very newest models.
however, launched by certain Partisan
actresses who are always precursors of
creations in dress this tightening in Of
the waist has done away with the
straight slender figure Slender it re-
mains, but straight it does not. 1t has
feminine curves, such as the old fash
toned corset made when thS human fig
ure was taken as model and its curves
accumulated. This makes the waist a
little smaller, the hips little rounder.
Say what you will, woman has a
really well groomcd appearance only
when her clothes fit her in this manner:
besides, tailoring shows TO its best and
most skilfuI advantage While the raised
waist line went especially well with the
simple style OF dressing that has been so
long in vogue, the heightened belt is all
right with the newer silhouette Ruffles,
frills and puffs are redeeminy features.
In dresses with all this extra trimming
detail the eye, not especially attracted
to the waist line, does not proportion the
figure as it does in the palmer styles.
In a navy blue tailored suit worn by a
Partisan actress this new silhouette is
well defined. The suit has the regula-
ton cutaway jacket, with a masculine
velvet collar and rather large revers
There are patch cuffs on the sleeves.
The skirt, plain and not too narrow at
the hem. is short enough to show the
light topped high shoes some distance
above the ankle. Equally up to date are
her other costume details-the white
lingerie winged blouse collar pulled up
modishly above the coat, and the white |
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15
OPERA CLOAKS.
/ F COURSE, there are any number
of really pretty women in Paris,
but there are also a great many

Though the majority of the new opera
cloaks are no longer trimmed with fur.
some exquisite models are still being
shown with deep collars and cuffs of
fox or sable. but the wintry effect 10
much modified by large tulle ruches or
flounces laid on the top of the peltry,
and so arranged shat they form COM
plete yelling. 4 wonderful creation has
just been seen fashioned of amber aud
red stamped velvet with huge collar
of red fox.
The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1914-02-15

OWN goes the fashionable
waist line: Odd enough it looks.
too, after the raised one We have
been used to for so many sea-
sons. In many of the latest
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14
SHIP
Is0F UNIQUE
CONSTRUCTION

Wood, steel and copper are COM
bined in the construction Of the hull
OF the trim appearing frigate rugged
training ship flying the colors Of the
Argentine Republic, and to remain at
Honolulu until the earlier part Of the
week before proceeding to Japan and
China on a cruise of the world that
win require $4,000 miles to COM
plete.
The Presidente Sarmiento that
went into commission In 1897 Is gem
orally known as Q composite vessel.
the upper portion of her hull being
of steel, the lower portion extend
ing below the water line is construct
ed of wood and sheathed with cop
per-
The vessel is today receiving ESQ
tons Of coal to repIenish its bunkers.
Officers as well as men have been
given opportunity Of visiting the city.
The vessel Is open to inspection by
Honolulans each day. Spanish being
the language spoken on board
the vessel. many people hailing from
this country have presented them.
selves on board.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14
CONSOLIDATION
IOBE COMPLETED
At MEETING TIL

Upon the suggestion Of T. H. Pc
trie. the trustees Of the Chamber Of
Commerce, at their meeting yester-
day afternoon, voted that, for the pur-
pose of holding an election. nomina-
tons for officers and directors of the
Chamber Of Commerce Of Honolulu be
received at q meeting called for May
"a, ct which time the consolidation of
the Chamber OF Commerce and Mer-
chants Association finally will be
completed. Mr.. Petrie, who is q men,
Der Of the joint bylaws committee,
made his suggestion following the
passage by the trustees Of the two
amendments to the bylaws adopted
at recent meeting Of the directors
of the Merchants Association.
Section 5 of Article 3 of the by
laws. relating to membership in the
new chamber. now reads as follows:
Every person now member Of
the Merchants Association of Homo
lulu, or an accredited representative
Of q firm or corporation having MEM
bership In that association, shall up
on the adoption of these bylaws be.
come members of this Chamber OF
Commerce of Honolulu without the
payment of any admission fee"
Section of Article s, regarding the
election Of directors and officers. is
complete as follows:
upon the adoption of these by
laws the term Of office Of the pres
ent officers and trustees of this Cham.
Der shall terminate, and thereupon
an election shall be held of officers
and directors to serve until the next
annual meeting or until their success.
sors are elected"
Fl. p. Wood, secretary of the Cham.
Der Of Commerce, was authorized to
proceed with the collection Of dues
from the members of the chamber.
which become payable the first of
the month. Upon consolidation. this
fund will be added to the fund Of the
Chamber of Commerce OF Honolulu.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14
GEN. EDWARDS
BRAVE
RESCUE ATTEMPT.
CONTINUED from pass one,

side, on which places to sleep and
stand had to be scraped. The detach-
ment remained there for five days in
the rain and continual mist that
shrouded everything from yiew-ald
from this dangerous camp, picked up
the trail and conducted the search.
Private Midkiff, a Kentucky noun
taineer, was the first to volunteer to
be swung over the precipice by a
Iope the size Of q middle finger; fol-
lowed by Lieut. Camp, who had
gained reputation as mountain clin-
Der and finder of trails over noun
tains. Later Lieut.. Nichols followed
and then Corporal Farmer. These
men for three days prosecuted the
search In q bowling wind and gale, In
driving rain and enshrouding mist, 'on
lodges Of rotten stone and vegetation,
endangered by falling powders and
rocks--a slight slip. when not tied
with rope, meant death They were
swung down in vertical pocket after
pocket, averaging about so feet. 1t
Crockett, whose brilliant career under
fire, where he. In two different en-
fragments. sustained several desper.
ate bolo and gun shot wounds, and
who endangered his life In saving a
soldier from drowning all meriting
medals Of honor Che Is recipient OF
cne) reports to me that the constant
danger to life that these four men
willingly and frequently took in the
three days, were greater In his mini
IL
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14
PROF. SCOTT, IN
JAPAN, RECEIVES
MEDAL OF HONOR
tcontiiued from page one)


and the members 81 the Hawaii party
who attended were seated on the plat
form.
PRO-. and Mrs. scott have received
during cur stay In Toxic many eyf
dences Of the sincere esteem in which
they are held by Japan. Last evening
Prot. Scott was the club guest Of hon
or at q reception and dinner for the
Hawaii party given by about 40 OF
Japan's most distinguished men In
education, literature and original in
vestigaticn, and attended also by men
prominent in the business world and
In government circles The dinner
was given In 4 private dining room
OF the Imperial hotel. Prof. Scott
made the chief address of the even
ing and several others of the Hawaii
party responded briefly on the gen.
erai subject of the party and the
significance Of its visit to Japan at
this time
And while on this subject It should
be said that at every dinner. every
gathering, where speeches have been
made 10 or by the Hawaii party. this
ideal OF close and friendly relations
between Japan and the United States
has been emphasized. And wherever
we have gone We have found every
indication that the best men and the
hest thought In Japan are meeting
halfway the best men and the best
thought of the United States on the
high ground Of mutual respect and
esteem and the desire for and belief
in eternal peace and friendIiness be-
tween nations.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14


table Compound and l have takenit and
feel fine. A lady said one day, ooh. ].
feel so tired all the time and have head
ache. ! said, Take Lydia E. Pink
hams Vegetable Compound, and she
did and feels fine now. Mrs. M. R.
KARsCHNuCK, 1888 N. Paulina Street,
Chicago, Illinois.
The Other Case.
Dayton, Ohio. = !" Lydia E. Pinkham,s
Vegetable Compound relieved me Of
pains in my side that / had for years
and which doctors medicines failed TO
relieve. Il has certainly saved me from
an operation. I will be glad to assist
you by q personal letter to any woman
in the same condition. . Mr.. ]. w.
SHERER, 126 Cass St, Dayton, Ohio.
il you want special advice
write to Lydia e. Pinkham Med
fdine Co. (confidential) Lynn,
Mass. Your letter will be opened,
read and answered by q woman,
md held In strict confidence.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14

Verne RinelL Of Norway. Me-.
thinks that bees are q good invest
ment. A hive which he purchased
five years ago has grown to IL hives
through annual swarning and last
season alone he secured 400 pounds Of
honey from the bees.
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14
SHAMROCK Iv TO BE !.
LAUNCHED ON MAY 20
IBy Latest NALL

: L0ND0N-The date for the launch.
ing of the Shamrock ~ is now fixed
as May %. The trial races will be-
gin the first week in June and con-
tinue until about the middle of July.
They win be principally in the So
lent. Opinions of all who have seen
the challenger agree that she is the
most wonderful boat ever built in Eu-
rope. PIX
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14

The Bible class conducted BY Rev.
j p. Erdman win meet at Z o'clock
this evening in the Kaumakapili
church. All members are requested
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14

Ne8etoDIe CON-
pound ! used to 60
70 my doctor for pills
and remedies and
they did not help me.
] had headaches and
could not eat, and the
doctor claimed ! had
female trouble and
must have an opera
ton. ! read ii the
paper about Lydis
j. Pinkha1n's Vere-
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14
WOMEN
AVOID
OPERA TONS


CHICAGO, III. = Z must thank You with
an my heart fot Lydia E. Pinkham,s
Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1914-05-14

Many a woman would like to be
known by the company she can't
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1914-12-07

thransom. No meal shud be spoke iv as
dinner. Ye niver heard iv an afther-
breakfast orator or an afther-supper
orator.
II can reminder whin afther-dinner
orathry was wan Nv tn proudest in
stichoochins ~ American life-whin tn
sayin was that hundreds iv people whit
to bankits to hear Chansy Depoo talk
an so did Chansy Depoo. But that day
has gone by. People ar~re tired ~
amoachoor orators. an tn mex step will
be to hire thrained speakers 20 help us
digest our vittles just the same as we
hire thrained musicians.
There is an OF sayin that ANYBODY
who can speak well can sing. Nobody wud
liver think Nv askin' me or Roger Sulli-
van to sing. Thin why, says 1 shud they
ask us to speak? Ne sir. at bankits Nv
tn future, whin tn coffee has come on
an tn good fellows ar-re juggiin' with
tn pussy caffeys. tn chairman will get
up an say. Now. gintlemen, IL We will
be so good as to remain silent Slntor Biv-
ridge Will oblije with tenor speech An
tn handsome young sinitor will step firm
behind a screen, ask tn leader fr tn key
iv G sharp an launch his high notes on
tn threaty with Columbya.
An after all what is an orator bu. a
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1914-12-07

first speakers. The last orator. n he
Isn't dead iv fright be tn time he's called
has 70 compete with a dozen arguments
an close harmony quartets, tn loud
laugh that speaks tn vacant bottle, an
maybe rough tumble fight or two.
wanst knew man that was a habit
chool afther-dinner speaker. He cuddent
pas RESTRAINT without composin' n
speech, an afther he'd finished a frugal
meal Nv wheat cakes an dhrawn-wan In
a dairy lunch, he wud rise an, bowin. to
the waithress, say. 'Misther Chairman
befure he cud recover himself.
He was a pale, thin man because he
attinded bankit every night iv his life
an niver cud ate anything. Why dye
DO It, foolish wan? says I. L don't
Know. says he. Il hate Il. No wan can
imagine tn suffrin's endure while
waitin' TO be called on or the reemorse
that follows tn speech. he says. Some
thing ought to be done 10 heal these
miserable brethren iv ours But I don't
believe In harsh methods Little be little
tneir mind an body shud be strengthened.
Ihey shud be encouraged TO shut I'M.
All comic paapers shud be Kept firm
THIN. Each afther-dinner orator shud
De confined to room be hismilf an IN
nurse shud serve his meals through IN.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1914-12-07
onparaleld Attractions.
By Beatrice
Fairfax

PLANTATION you will be glad to do your
share to clear 1t up,
Too Analytical.
Dear Miss Fairfax: / am troubled.
am young woman of e. not in the least
good looking, and haven't a very sweet
disposition. In fact, 1 am stubborn and
have temper l am engaged to a young
man three years my senior. whose affec-
ton for me seems nearer idolatry than
love. / think a great deal of him, but
know that do not love him as he loves
me. This almost breaks my heart. l am
working shoulder to shoulder with men
I'm the business world and earn as much
as the average man. Do you think this
feeling is due to my success in the BUSH
ness world. or that have always had a
great desire to make my own fight in the
world. or that do not love him? 1t seems
to me that 1t must be one of those three
reasons that made me feel as l do. Can
MARGUERITE.
You scrutinize your motives and charac-
ter too closely. You would be happier IL
you were more spontaneous and natural
and let yourself drift a bit more on the
tide of your own feelings without examin-
ing them under a microscope. I think
you have let yourself become a little
morbid through too much introspection.
II you did not care for the young man
you would not so much mind hurting
him. You seem to be girl who has won
success In tho business world at an early
age and who has also been able to COM
mand the devoted love of a good man. SO
you must be sweeter and more lovable
than you think. And of course you must
have ability. How would you feel II you
were never TO see your lover again? Think
this over seriously. That will tell you far
better than any guess OF mine, whether
or no you love your fiance.