Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1914-01-18

feels that she has secured that which
her rival missed.
The women here are allies of the dress
makers to provide original treatment of
French model, but this work lies more
along the line Of playing up individ-
uality than in any radical change Paris
lays down the fundamental laws of
dress twice year, and If one abides by
these, even when changing the details,
one cannot go far wrong.
The fortunate part Of the situation is
that Paris herself admits so many fash
ions at time that only the most queru-
lous women would find none to choose.
LooA at the tunic, for example: there
are as many variants Of 1t as of the XII
mono sleeve. You can cut 1t long or
short: II may be draped or round, wired
or nat scalloped or bound. 1t can be
made to suit your figure, your tastes Yet
when you looked at the first Persian af-
fair shown in October you exclaimed in
horror over it.
In the early day of the kimono sleeve
there We're many atrocities committed
in it's name Few knew how to cut it,
Women were frankly uncomfortable, and
said so. They suffered more in it than
in the hobbled skirt. but the world of
men would not believe It, II there is
any part of the gown that can give more
prolonged agony than sleeve that cuts
and binds the arm and pulls from the
shoulder, then woman has yet to
learn it.
4 !;
After a year of the kinono, q new
sleeve came into fashion. whether as a
prevention to cruelty or to satisfy the
cry for something new no one knew
The long sleeve that reached the wrist
and had proper and conventional
armhole commanded a public at once,
but this autumn the kimono came
int tr NIT lol
behind it. Now one ses 1t in every kind
of blouse and large majority Of persons
know how to cut and place it. Instead
of being discomfort, 1t is a delight. 1t
has a multitude Of shapes and is man
aged in a multitude OF ways
The French blouses are made in three
parts, and because of that trick, it Is
possible they wear better than ours.
First there is lining to which is sewed
the first sleeve of chiffon. usually in
white. Over that goes a loose drapery,
also cut ON the hmono lines and also
white or flesh pink; into this placed
the sleeves in color, whether they are cut
separately or not: Usually. they are cut
in one with the blouse. And mark you
well, both these armholes are conven-
tional in size instead of reaching down
to the waist line. You can adopt that
kind If you wish. and many women like
them. but this newer method Is a good
variation from the original.
Over these two parts is placed the third
part, which is surplice drapery that
has its huge armholes finished with
| picot edge or hemstitching. 1t is cut
high to go at the back, as the world has
! accepted the long line from the waist
to the nape Of neck. The point in max
| Ing separate armhole for the sleeve
proper is to obv:ate that uncomfortable
effect of a short underarm line. which
drags the shoulder every time the arm
| is lifted That was the original trouble
with the kimono sleeve. and the French
have got around it by this better method
of putting regulation sleeve into q
| regulation ,armhole and giving the XII
| is sleeveless. Its armhole drops well