The Washington herald., 1914-03-22
Fashions at the Capital
The Well Dressed Woman OF Smart Society," What She Wears;
The Time and Place.
WADE

There are to be sure many women In
smart society who are not well dressed.
according to any accepted standard OF
fashions. There are also many womer
attired in the newest and smartest of
fashions who are not in society at all
according to the accepted meaning Of that
term, Mrs. Grundy's meaning. Mrs
Grundy may, of course. be all wrong in
restricting this choice circle, over which
she has held sway for many years. a
circle not only choice but chosen. but
having established her claim to recog-
milton long ago. and held 1t against all
comers, II is not for this column to dis
pute her decisions as to women or gowns.
Furthermore. this much misunderstood,
slI-powerful. though invisible dictator Of
good form in the matter OF dress Tor
her Washington followers, deserves only
respect and thanks, for she has enectu-
ally banned all freak fashions and put
her seal of approval only on what are
becoming modest and artistic creations
There are no unbecominC fashlons TINS
spring for the woman who knows her
own STYLE and dresses accordingly.
A careful survey of the first importa-
tions direct from the dozen leading
houses of Paris shows such great
range of style that the American makers
can readily supply any maid or matron
between sixteen and sixty with COM
plete summer wardrobe suited to every
occasion in life, with each garment the
reproduction Of a real Paris model.
Mrs, Richard Townsend. Mrs. stephen
r. EIlxins, Mrs slater and other WASH
ingtonians always found among the pat
rons of Worth are having their skirts a
little wider. their afternoon gowns all
made with long sleeves, which are TWO
spring notes from this first and to con-
servative dressers best Of all designers
From Cheruit come skirts SO wide as
to be almost full with a variety in over
skirts and arrangement of the still popu-
lar sash in novel and artistic lines. seen
to advantage in the always smart ward
robe of Miss Margaretta Symons.
DrecoIl, who inspires a large percentage
of the American made, but Paris de-
signed, suits for women of good taste
preserves the narrow line at the ankle
and the slit skirt in its least objectional
form. This is where the slit is on the
side seam. or possibly directly in front,
but never very deep and always with an
overlapping hem. This method allows
a freedom in walking or dancing that
is now demanded even in cloth tailored
suits
Mime. Paquin, Doucet, Beer, the
CaIlot sisters, the house Of Premet, there
is really no Premet in this well known
firm. and the Americanized Paul Poiret |
are all making bid for American trade /!
in general, and Washington trade in par /.
ticular since il has been cabled abroad |
that the next White House wedding will |
call for an entirely different style of
dress than the comparatively modest /
ceremony which marked the marriage Of |
Miss Tessie Wilson.
Miss Eleanor Wilson, since her arrival |
in Washington. has developed style of
dress that promises well for her posi- |
ton as Cabinet hostess. the best gowned |
as well the youngest, should Mr.. |
McAdoo continue in his present post after |
their marriage, which a well authenti- |
Gated rumor now says may take place
before June !.
The shortening of the walking skirt. |
even in gowns intended for ceremonious
which is one of the slight but
significant changes in fashion, is shown
in a velvet suit worn as a spring cos
tune by Mime. Hauge, widow Of the for
mer Minister from Norway, but an Amer
can woman of much charm and distinc-
ton. This costume is of chiffon velvet,
which, by the way. is regarded as an
IDEAL material for early spring and is
being made up in the very latest models.
Nine. Hauges skirt is certainly six
inches from the ground. very narrow and