davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

THE Jared skirt and the revival
Of the old-time basque make
the two important matters for
discussion in the world of dress today.
To be sure, neither is aggressive az
yet. Both features are held in the
background to come as important
items later on but both have arrived,
nevertheless, and that they will
influence the coming styles is true
beyond question. Skirts have grown
as narrow as we'll could be and latterly
we have developed hip draperies to
the fullest possible extent; conse-
quently, the next change must take
quite a different form. The newest
and latest models show circular
founces variously placed, long full
tunics, insets in the seams of the skirt
and, in some few instances, the basque
that Is so reminiscent of an earlier
period.
The last is likely to come slowly.
We'have grown so accustomed to the
graceful loose blouse that it is hardly
probable that women will take with
enthusiasm TO such revival but it
is one of the changes chronicled for
the future, nevertheless, and one that
must be taken into account.
The tendency toward greater width
at the edge of the skirt is a more vel
come one and likely TO be met with
enthusiasm and the long tunics or
over-skirts are really very pretty and
becoming and, at the same time, prac-
teal. In fact, there are a great many
features of prevailing styles that render
them especially adaptable to economy
of dress. All sorts and all lengths Of
tunics are worn. Over-blouses are
almost a rage and, since both are made
of material differing from the founda-
ton one, they serve admirably for
remodelling. The long straight tunics
are gathered and plated and treated
in various ways and they are as often
of material differing from the skirt
as of the same. Altogether Dame
Fashion has been kind friend and,
when one remembers how many oppor-
tunities are offered in the Infinite
variety of fabrics, that truth becomes
doubly apparent.
We are wearing the most wonderful
little capes and cape wraps, TOO, and
there is no garment ever created easier
to make or prettier than the cape
while some Of the little cape wraps
are the most ooquettizh, fascinating
litGLe creations possible For warm
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

plain oolors. The gown that is made
Of MORE taffeta is trimmed with the
same silk in changeab1e effect and
combines skirt draped in hustle
effect with an exceedingly pretty and
becoming blouse. The skirt, by the
way, is made of one big piece of
material, the hustle being formed by
iudicious handling of pIaits and gath
ers. For the later season and real
warm wether, the model would be
pretty copied in very light weight
summer taffeta showing stripes of
black and white and with plain white
taffeta for the vest and collar.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04
F ashton Notes

A y extremely attractive dancing
a gown Of soft silk is made with
a narrow skirt overlaPped at
the front and half length haring
tunic but Is finished at the lower
edge with a soft plated frill
of chiffon in matching color. a
great many tafeta skirts are made
with soft little ruches at their lower
edges and, in almost everyway, there
is evidence Of the coming fullness.
That to some extent it will take the
form Of the circular founce is probably
true but it will also show other varia-
tons and the ruches and trimmings
sound an important note. Little ruff
flies are seen arranged over narrow
skirts, lace founces ard lace rufles
are being put TO almost every possible
use and, in every way, there is evidence
Of the width that is to come.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

Roman stripes are not alone in the
height of style, they are very beautiful,
for they are to be found in great
variety of coIors. The suit that shows
them used for the blouse and under
tunic is made of the new summer
gabardine in a fashionable shade of
brown and the stripes repeat the
brown as the dominant color.
This is essentially silk season and
MORE effects are found in the summer
silks as we'll as lowered designs and
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04
Latest Notes from the Fashion Centers

weather, they will be made of all
sorts of pretty fancy silks, either IN
lined or with lining of chiffon or
mousseline if such lining is desirable;
incidentally these Innings are used to
give the touches Of bright color which
are so eminently picturesque and
which are never used to greater ad-
vantage than in just such ways For
evening occasions, the capes will be
made of the most beautiful silks and
brocades, for daytime use, of simple
silks and of broadcloth and the
like while, for travelling, motoring
and the like, the long practical military
cape is given first choice. When one
remembers that the cape in some form
is apt to be becoming to every woman,
its introduction may we'll be met with
enthusiasm. Just now, however, the
cape of dressier occasions must be
held by waistcoat or straps or some
such attachment, for to be smart
it must fall open at the front and give
the impression Of slipping down from
the shoulders, not being held closely
about the figure. It fares volumi-
nously and it is altogether very
pretty and attractive garment.
The circular founces are posed in
every possible way. At the moment,
those over the hips and little below
the hip line are popular but already
the founce that edges the skirt has
been seen and, when once the tendency
starts in that direction, it is difficult
to know where it will end. For some
curious reason or other, the world of
fashion is ever the world of unrest.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

GUNNER fashions are really won
derfully alluring and attractive.
Gowns are made of such beautiful
fabrics, combinations of materials are
so unusually attractive and the lines
of the gowns themselves are all pretty
and becoming. In one way or another.
we must be broad across the hips but,
since we are allowed a choice of puffs
and ruf1es, tunics and draperies, there
SHOULD be no difficulty in producing
that effect in the manner adapted to
each figure. In this picture are shown
FIVE new and fashionable costumes.
Each one is distinctively different from
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

We are never content, never let things
stay as they are. The narrow skirt
has only just been developed to its
best As matter Of fact, the circular
founce at the lower edge is only de-
sirabIe when the skirt is trained. When
it must support its own weight, il is
apt to sag and to pull out Of shape.
If the great couturieres urge it nupo
us. no doubt we will accept it but,
while that is true, it IS well 10 look
upon it little askance and TO cling
to the good things while we have
them. The long tunics, both plain
and full, give a new line and are apt
to be becoming and they continue to
give straight lines even while they are
distinctly new.
A very charming costume Is made
Of striped blue and white tafeta with
a long tunic or over-skirt Of plain blue
and bodice that combines the two
materials. The skirt 10 Of the almost
universal two-piece sort and the tunic
is simply gathered at its upper edge
terminating about halfway between
the knees and the ankles, and is
finished with rather wide but fiat
putting Of the material edged with
little frills. The yoke-like portion
that forms the upper portions Of the
sleeves is Of the striped silk, the lower
portion Of the blouse and the main
portions Of the sleeves Of the plain.
The neck forms a slight V at the back,
a deeper one at the front, and pretty
finish is found in the soft frills Of lace
which finish the sleeves and fall over
the hands.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

or can take the place of the blouse
suit for small boys for general wear
but the blouse suit this season has
taken on a new form and there are
occasions for which the little jacket
costume is especially desirable. Linen
and galatea are always standbyes but
a great deal of light weight eponge is
used this season. both plain and crepe
finished, and, for very hot days, suits
are made of linen, chambray, percale
and such thin materials.
One of the costumes illustrated
shows white galatea with belt and
tie of bright red and it is very pretty
and childlike in effect. Next to it is
a MILDLY suit with trimmings of
Natter blue and Natter blue on a
white foundation makes very charm
ing and summerlike effect.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04
Fashionable Costumes for Sea and Shore

One is made with kimono and two
with raglan sleeves, and just stop i
minute to think what that means.
There IS no fitting to be accomplished,
and you can make your own suit
without the least bit Of trouble and
with very small expenditure Of time.
In two Of the designs are shown founces
or short peplums over the hips, and Of
course they are pretty while they are
not full enough to interfere with the
swimming that makes an important
part of the real sea bath. In fact
materials in these days are so light
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04
HINTs FOR LIE HOME NEEDLE WOMEN
A DESIGN FOR EMBROIDER-
ING A PLATTER DOILEY
IS II INCHES WIDE.

THE scalloped edge to be padded
and button-holed. The flowers
leaves and dots can be worked
either solidly or as eyeiets. The
stems to be outlined.
To pad the scallops, work chain
stitch between the lines, heavier at
the center and lighter at the points;
or, cut a skein of thread and apply
two or more strands over the center
Of the stamped pattern, keeping
within the lines, tack here and there
in COUGHING style, gathering the
threads closely at each point Of the
scallops; then button-hole closely
over the foundation.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

that one is entirely unhampered. and
we may 90 forth clothed attractiveIy
and becomingly yet certain of the
freedom which every real lover of the
sea enjoys.
Each one Of these costumes IS sup
Piled with bloomers, but all except
the little girls are made with skirt
and blouse joined by means OF a
belt. so that if the bloomers are not
liked close-ftting tights can be worn
in their stead.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

The checked suit is made of crepe
eponge, blue and white, and is trimmed
with white bands with blue braid and
the jacket suit next to it combines
white linen with royal blue, for the
bright shades of blue are much used
and are exceedingly childlike in effect
and altogether attractive.
Box plated dresses are always be-
coming to the younger children. One
of those illustrated is made with
knickerbockers and one without, but
they both give long, slender lines that
are sure to be becoming. The white
frock scalloped with blue is very
charming and embroidery in simple
designs is being as much used for
boys suits this season as it o gsea
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

DATHING costumes give evidence
r. Of the general trend Of the
seasons fashions, and are really
most attractive creations. Verify and
indeed is the time past and gone when
the costume for the dip into the sea
or for the sun bath on the beach was
something to be hidden from sight.
To-day it is just as graceful and pretty
and becoming as the gown designed
for the popular dance. II may be
made from silk or from satin especially
made for the purpose and warranted
to remain uninjured by any amount of
use, or it may be made of mohair OF
good quality and special advantage,
and it may be trimmed with white or
with color, made quite simply or really
elaborate, as each owner selects for
herself. Everything is pretty about
the bathing costumes this year. Caps
are coquettish and piquant and shoes
are shapely and well-htting, many Of
them bound around the ankles in the
sandal style that is both practical and
attractive.
The designs shown on this page are
among the best. There is one for the
grownups, one for the young girls and
small women and one for the little
girls, SO that all the needs are supplied
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1914-06-04

fashions for little boys are of
especial interest this season for
several reasons. A great many
materials are used for their making and
bright colors are much liked for collars
and trimmings, and bright color is so
peculiarly well adapted to the children
that it is exceedingly attractive put
to such use. Nothing ever has taken
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11
Problem OF the Debutante

AT this time of the year many par.
ents are making arrangements to In.
troduce their daughters in society.
The long and costly period of incuba.
ton Is ended, says the Philadelphia
Ledger. The girl has returned from
a fashionable finishing school, OF
from a tour abroad, and she is now
ready-albeit with trepidation-to
cross the threshold into the scintillat.
ing ballroom and beyond that into a
world OF pleasure and of pain, of singu-
lar follies and sad sincerities. Of false
friends and true counselors. But what
OF the immediate process of initiation?
Is the present ~exhausting ordeal, from
the autumnal housewarming to the
sackcloth of lenten penitence, any
thing more thar a nerve racking,
sleep destroying charivari of vulgar os-
tentation and a hectic, frantic furry
TO keep pace with the procession ?
What useful end is ~subserved by this
mad rout of overlapping gayeties that
burns the candle at both ends and re-
duces a maiden, who should be buoy.
ant and radiant and beautiful in spirit
and In health, to a shadow-blase, ane-
mic and lethargic-of her former
charming self?
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11
Heroism on the increase.


The papers lately have teemed with
accidents. Catastrophe after catastro-
phe has shaken the public nerves, and
rent open all those great unanswer-
able questions which from time to
time distress the public mind like half
healed wounds. The quiet dwellers by
the fireside have been watching fear
full sights. Groups of men occupied
In their lawful callings have been sud-
denly overtaken by death before our
very eyes. In quick succession the
scenes rise before US. They are laid
In the depths of the earth. A dramat.
ic demand has been made upon human
daring, and 1t has been satisfied in a
measure which makes 1t difficult to
deny that heroism Is on the increase.
1t Is extraordinary that ii should be
so-indeed. it would seem to be al.
most miraculous. All the %perceptible
currents of emotion are blowing the
other direction. Races depend for
their salvation upon their capacity
for heroism. Just now the straws are
apparently drifting toward destruc-
ton. At the same time salvation
seems to draw near, coming like a
storm against the wind.-London Spec
tator.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11

ing good health now and owe it all to
your remedies. l take pleasure in tell
ing my friends and neighbors about
them."-Mrs. MATTE HALEY, sol Col
quhone Street, Danville, Va.
No woman suffering from any form
of female troubles should lose hope un-
til she has given Lydia E. Pinkham's
Vegetable Compound a fair trial.
This famous remedy, the medicinal
ingredients of which are derived
from native roots and herbs, has for
forty years proved to be a most valua-
BILE tonic and invigorator of the fe-
male organism. Women everywhere
bear willing testimony to the wonderful
virtue of Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegeta-
BILE Compound.
If you have the slightest doubt
that Lydia T.. Pinkham's Vegeta-
bic Compound will help you, write
to Lydia e. PinkhamMe dicineC Co.
(cOnfidential) Lynn, Mass, for adj
vice. Your letter will be opened,
read and answered by a woman,
and held in strict confidence.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11
CLEARED UP
Madison Readers Can No Long
err Doubt the Evidence.

Again and again we have read o.
strangers in distant towns who have
been cured by this ..or that medicine.
But Madison's pertinent question has
always been HAS anyone here In
| Madison been curedt The word of a
stranger living a hundred miles away
may be true, but il cannot have the
sans weight with US as the word of
our own citizens, whom we know and
respect, and whose evidence we can
so easily prove.
ID. W. Perry. Standard Oil agent
Madison, S. d., says: 1T gives me
pleasure to recommend Doan's Kidney
Pills again and confirm my former
testimonial reg riding them. l have
taken this remedy cca~sionally during
the past years and it has never failed
to give the best results
Fol- sale by all deal RS. Pfice so
cents. Foster Milbufn Co.. Buffalo.
New YORK, sole agents for the Un ted
States.
Remember the Named an's-and
take no other. ADV.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11
How One Pastor Built Church.

Last winter one of the strong
churches of Los Angeles extended Rev.
w. ii. Shelter of Memphis, Tenn, a
call to become their pastor, and after
considering all sides of the question
ne decided to accept the call. relates
the Christian Herald. So he con.
vened his official board, placed before
them his resignation and asked to
be released. His board being made UT
OF tactful business men, and know.
ing that their pastor had tried for
years to build a new church. request
Ell him to hold the resignation in
apeyance for a week, which he did.
Then the board got busy, bought a
new site for a church and paid $27. 600
Tor IT and reported to the church the
Following Sunday that they would
build a new church on 1t at once If
their pastor would consent to remain
with them. He wanted another week,
and then said to his church, IT will
stay with you If you will subscribe
$4,000 for the new church at once"
Ihey too him at his word, and al
that service subscribed s54, 900 for the
e building. 1t goes without say.
Ing h a his church Is very happy over
MS decision to stay with them.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11
sibiy remember.

6s1aS
What I've needed all along wal an
Notwithstanding to work for.
That's what I've needed all my life.
My-er-grandfather had something
to work for and he handed 1t down to
bis children; now | want something to
work for, which I can hand down to
our"
why, Mr.. Jones," He did not even
know that she was blushing. He was
far too much In earnest.
Don't call me Mr.. Jones. You
know what | want you to call me. Go
on. Let me hear you say 1t. as you
used to say it,
Jackson"
No; call me broadway"
Why? Do you still love Broad.
wayT'
Il don't quite know" he answered
as he gently drew her toward him and
then kissed her.
n did not resist or protest.
Come on" he presently suggested.
Let's you and me go get some ice.
cream soda, too"
THE END.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11

furS.W
II don't know what TO say, Mr.. Wal,
lace Broadway answered, and he
really did not.
Monday will be time enough the
elder Wallace answered genially. 81
have an appointment with Pembroke
at his house tomorrow. After | have
had ten minutes walk with him |
promise o that the Consolidated
people will make no further attempts
to absorb. But now I must go. Good
night"
Jackson grasped his hand with fer.
o. What a night this was!
Going to motor back" asked Bob.
Yes; | prefer my motor car to the
railroad. See you Monday. Good
night"
isn't 1t like a dream?' asked Bob
after the last glimmer OF glow from
the cars headlight had vanished down
the road.
II can't believe it's true"
II wants to buy q half interest In
your business. Did you get that?"
"All | want is enough to pay my
debts"
Bob laughed. Don't tell him that;
he's a business mani"
But"
Il think you'd better let me handle
that for you"
will you? Fine!" II suddenly oc.
CURED to him that he must tell his
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11
SNEEZED 1000 TIMES.
Then Miller Broke a Blood Vessel and
Obtained Relief,

Middletown, N. Y.-John Miller, a
farmer Of Long Eddy, Sullivan county,
came near sneezing to death. He was
In the woods cutting down trees when
he took a pinch Of some new snuff he
had just purchased. He began sneez-
ing and kept 1t up for more than five
hours.
When he found he could not stop
sneezing he drove to a train and came
to this city to consult a physician. On
his journey he just escaped being put
OF the train for causing a disturbance.
On his arrival here he gave one final
sneeze and broke a blood vessel, which
caused his nose to bleed. This stopped
the sneezing, and he was all right.
He estimated that he sneezed about
1900 times. or on an average fifteen
sneezes a minute for more than five
hours. He bit his tongue several times
during the sneezing.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11

friend at once about the Rankin-Gerard
episode, but he did not mean to break
his promise to the ancient bride. Say,
Bob, I've just-I've just had a tele-
phone message from New York. What
do o think has ~happenedT
Go on, tell me-"
Mrs. Gerard has denied her engage
ment to me and is going to marry the
earl of Cortland"
Wallace took this in a gulp of Joy.
Honestly? ?"
II just got the word"
"A million congratulations, old pail"
In a mad enthusiasm he shook hands
with Broadway. Three cheers for
everybody in the world"
Broadway seized him and, in an &C.
cess OF perfect satisfaction with the
way the world was wagging they
danced there in the moonlight.
The earl of Cortland?" Bob ex
claimed at length. who the deuce
is he? never heard of him."
IL have. I've seen him"
Aou haNS' Wh0e uoS5 NC ioon
like?"
Broadway paused, as II In thought.
We'll, he's the very image of-say,
you know my butler?'
Rankin"
Yes. Well, he looks just like him.
You'd hardly know them apart"
you don't say?"
Yes; a wonderful resemblance"
Il wonder what became of Rankin
Bob specialized idly. He had liked
Rankin.
Il think he surmised | was going
to locate here and he didn't like the
town."
Bob nodded. Gone, is he? Well,
maybe that was It,"
The girls caught sight of them as
they approached the house and Clara
ran to them. "Oh, there you are!
Where's your father, Bob?"
Hes gone"
"Oh, l wanted to see him!"
You'll see him Monday" He
laughed. Come on. Let's go and get
an orange ice-cream soda"
"Oh, let's! Come on, JOSIE"
Wen be right along" said Broad
way. you go on ahead"
Josie came down the steps with less
precipitancy than Clara, but she did
not really hesitate. Broadway went
to her with hand o~utstretched to help
and that peculiarly earnest face he
always wore when thinking deeply,
even of the most delightful subjects.
do you care II l call you JOSEF
he inquired. "He calls her Clara and
she calls him Bob"
why, that's my NAME" said she
with the simplicity of the frank coun-
try maiden.
He wasted not a moments time
That's not the reason I'm SO anxious
to-" he said. IT'S because I'm fond
OF you. / love you. josie"
why. how can you IA such a
thing?"
'Oh, | know, you heard I was en-
gagged, but I'm not" he eagerly ex-
planned. THAT was all a joke.
can't explain it all now. Will you
marry me, Josie"
What"
Il meal it; honestly. I do! What
I've needed. all along. was an incen-
tive"
He was very earnest; perhaps he
was not quite aware that he was slip
ping into words which she might pos.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1914-02-11
Winter Cough

A stubborn, annoying, depressing
cough hangs IN. racks the body weak.
eps the lungs. and often leads te
serious results. The first dose of DIR.
Kings New Discovery gives relief.
Henry D. Sanders. of Cavendish, VT.
was threatened with consumption, after
having pneumonis. He writes: "Dl
Kings New Discovery ought to 90 in
every family; it is certainly the best
of all medicines for coughs, colds OF
lung trontle." Good for children't
coughs. Money back if not satisfied.
Price soc and 81. At all druggists
Fl. e. Bucklen q Co., Philadelphia OF
st. Louis. ADV.