The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-11-08

mercy women should bless the dictators
OF the Rue de Ia Paix. many or vbnn1
by the way. have long since migrated
from the Rue de- In paix or have nevor
oeen there. so that the address is a ira.
'lition only.
This opening for making over frucls
VIII temper the wind to the lamb that,
even though American raised ia likely
I" S'and "a shar1 Of the war time shear
ing. with the aid of 'unic and con
rhstlng underskirt effects sleeveless
oN'rbodicos with contrasting sleeves and
the varied possibilities in coat lengths
and skirt silhouettes. almost any old
tro'k can be satisfactorily furnished up.
even though II may MT he the very
latest cry when renovated.
Now that the first fine frenzy of fash.
ION launching is over and the spray has
Subslded' one finds thai for tho Ameri.
can public at least the straight nr
slightly fitted bodice with very lon.
haring tunic, the coat on these same
ines and the very straight Moyen Age
lines have things pretty much their
own way.
The flarlng, FUN skirt without tunir
and the short coat or fitted bodice with
pinchcd in waist line have their ad-
mirors. An the importers who were
fortunate enough to get French models
at all brought over one or two VI
Georgette's models built ON these lines.
Premct coquettcd with the idea. too.
So did others; but GCorgcttc. perhaps
because she is the youngest Of the
oNmpians, had the Cuurag" and au-
dacity OF her convictions and declared
boldly for the frankly wide fun Skin,
and fitted bodice.
That her creations leave piquancV
and charm no one can deny but when
one tries to visualize the women of
ones acquaintance. all arrayed "a
G"orgettc. imagination reels. II e.
woman is petite and pretty. or at leas,
piquant. and able to employ first
class dressmaker let her follow Gcor-
gette's lead IL she chooses. That another
season will see the tunic give place
To the flare skirt without tunic and the
waist line reappclv seems fairly prob
able, and there must be pioneers but
on the whole American designers have
done wisely in modifying Georgette's
silhouette to long haring tunic and
a glimpse Of underskirt.
Take the fur trimmed suit of the cen
trail picture. for example. II hints a,
Georgette. yet disClams her. The fur
trimmed ,unic is as fun and flares a.
widely as her very short skirt. Til"
designer has merely slipped an under
skirt beneath it, And the short coat
drawn in at the waist line looks dis.
t,nctly Gcurgcttlsh among ALI IN"
s,rdiGh, coats long and short. Vet i;s
Ripping coat bottom j. trinc lonsr,
than thos' Of her fancy aud it, waist
line is not shortened a. she might have
shortened il.
The Goa; fastening straight up to the
neck, the high. tight fur collar. the mill.
tary braiding. al these the American
designer has appreciated and made his
own, but the French saw them first.
Such coat lines as these are the eN-
ception. One sees usually the Russian
coat. straight to the hips. with fiaring
Goa: skirts. the rcdlngote short IN
front. long at the sides and back. the
extraordinarily smart looking long coat
which fits in easily at the waist, flares
widely at the foot. has a high rolling
fur collar across the back to the shoul-
der seams, and wide fur cuffs, and the
little coat short and straight.
All OF these are illustrated in good
models and very large number are
fur trimmed The furriers are grieV-
ing over the late coming of cold weather
and small sales in fur coats; but surely
the ppsitiv" mania for fur trimmings
on separate coats. suit coats and frOtks
must give some impetus to the fur
trade Never have trimming furs been
used more generally and more laviShly. ,