The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1914-03-29
PARIS, March 20.

Of 1sso-s2 should receive so much
attention from the designers Of the
modes In Paris. but so II IL. For
the past two or three years we have had
lsse fashions thrust upon us in one
guiso or another and now We md the
styles Of that period openly copied by
the leading milliners, for example, the
narrow brimmed hats with exag-
/ geratedly high crowns which promise
to be tho rage of the summer. Then
there are the round skirts made of
brocaded silk and finished at the hem
with . thick pinked out ruche.
These styles are entirely 1850. And
90. for the matter Of that, is the quaint
little band Of narrow black velvet rib
bon which is now worn round the wrist
In the daytime. People are rather fond
OF saying that these velvet bands are
Louis XIV. but that Is not the case
They belong to the days when Mrs.
Langtry was known to the whole world
Is the Jersey Lily.
30 far as hats and toques are con-
cerned It must be recorded that the
crowns get higher and higher and tho
spring models I have seen a mass Of
small ostrich plumes made to form a
high. cone shaped crown; on others a
crown Of the same outline is made OF
rucked velvet or Of flowers massed to-
gether.
The plate" hats are certain to be the
rage Of the summer season. Already
they are being worn by the smartest
French actresses on and Off the stage
and they are really So decorative and
coQuettish that 1t will not he. surprising
II they rule the world of fashion in
few months. They are specially at
tractive when only slightly raised at the
left side. q band OF roses being placed
= under the brim and some handsome
Nibbors passed over the fiat crown and
thrust through the straw brim. Young
women and girls can wear ribbon
streamers with good effect. but for older
women flowers alone are In better taste.
The Paris milliners are using curl
Gus mixture Of flowers Just now: for
example. . Nat hat tilted up over a
bandcau covered with carnations. for
get-me-nots and dark red rosebuds: or
Q similar hat raised over bank Of
yellow jessamine. lilies Of the valley and
\ moss roses. The ribbons on these hats
eare wide and handsome; as "a rule they
have picot edges and the favorite colors
are Chinese and Egyptian blue. Empire
green. violet de Monselgneur. japonica
pink and old rose.
Most Of the new and expensive mil
lsAery models have the appearance OF
Ahaving been carefully renovated: they
are made of vanished straw. This Is
an inartistic fashion. but the Parisiennes
seem to approve Of 1t. These vanished
straws are to be seen In all the leading
millinery studios, in colors as we'll as
in black.
think It was Lewis who originated
this fashion: II was certainly he who
made It SO popular in Monte Carlo in
the early part Of the year. 1t Is pre-
dlcted that Tuscan straws will be very
much sought after this summer. espe-
cslily for the fiat Vatican models Grim
oline straw also Is coming back into
favor and so is fine chip. Coarse. large
meshed straws are TO have q period OF
srepose.
At the Auteuil race meetings the ultra
Amart Parisiennes are appearing in volu-
minous mantles OF the Spanish capa
type. I mentioned these big capes in
recent article, but the fashion is be-
coming SO popular that I return TO the
subject without hesitation. Nine. ST.
none launched these capa nantes in
la Danse devant lie Miro!r": from that
\mOment they became popular.
Some Of the most effective models ~
This order are made of black satin and
lined with MARITIME printed silks. A
large quantity of material Is needed
for ono OF them. The lengths are cut
In straight pieces. Joined and then gath
cred into a short yoke which moulds
the shoulders. Sometimes a capuchin
hood Is added. but more frequently the
I mantle Is finished off with wide col
Var.
For absolute comfort these cloaks
stand alone: nothing can compare with
them. The Parisiennes have taken them
up warmly because they possess two
admirable qualities: they are smart and
becoming and they are very practical,
being so large and full that they can
no thrown on over any dress. even over
a smart mantle made OF thin material.
For race meetings they are Of course
ideal and in the spring and summer OF
this year they will be very generally
worn.
Some Of the new evening corsages
are rather startling in outline. Not
only are they very decollete in the back.
and indeed in front also, but they are
a sleeveless and cut away under the arms.
Epeaking generally it may be said that
none Of the new evening corsages have
sleeves. They are held up on the shout
Gers by straps OF paste or by narrow
bands Of gold or silver passementerie.
As rule they are crossed In front. the
folds of supple material being drawn
softly over the bust.
Tho saving note for those who OBJ
Ject to ultra decolette dresses II struck
by the picturesque scarf drapery OF
chiffon or hns Chantilly which II now
often worn over evening dresses. These
\ scarf draperies are extremely natterins
- the figure. They are arranged In
lohg point, almost like the hood OF an
ASebian burnoose. at the back and
e,lshsd with Q heavy tassel; In front
W. ends are carelessly knotted and a.
lowed to fall low on the skirt, or they
49, out Oh and tucked away into ths
waist belt. Such a drapery forms Z
Kind OF picturesque. quito transparent
mantle, and as these scarfs are fire.