The Washington herald., 1914-07-27
By MILDRED DILLON.

While the Ghermometer firts with the
100 mark. the chefs IN washington's large
hotels are working over union time con-
cocting cooling dishes Of delectable sub
stances TO please the heated palates and
"tummies" Of the townsfolk.
Once upon a time-not 50 very long
ago-chefs cooked whatever happened to
be in season, and there were certain
dishes taboo in the summertime. No one
ever heard Of consomme served on the
warm weather list and termed chilled.
any more than one saw in January that
blackberries we're on the menu.
The menus in the Washington hotels
and restaurants this season show COM
pIete revolution Of foodstuffs. The heavy
hot dishes Of the winter have been super
seded by alluring delicacies made OF
chilled jeIies and fancy frostings-invent-
ed 10 resurrect the heat prostrated appe-
tites
Admitted to Kitchen.
Monsieur Jacques z. Haeringer who
presidss with authoritative manner and
rapid French language over me "hlte-
capped underchefS at the Shoreham. gra-
ciously admitted The Herald's represent
ative to the alr-cooled kitchen and with
out hesitation divuiged the latest recipes
re has invented and serves daily to the
Washington elect
Monsieur's little black goatee fell sew
eral inches on his white linen coat front
when he thought OF his prize dishes and
said 'Ah!" with a heavenward glance.
Then in Partisan French he called 10
his cooks to bring forth certain dishes
for nv inspection and gave me an illus
tratsd lesson in culinary art
''Ev-ree ting: 1t Is chilly dees gum
mer." he announced.
Yes: chilled things are popular in
warm weather" said the reporter.
No, no, no: ! said. not chilled but
chilly"
We argued for some time the relative
values of the adjective, and he finally
had to demonstrate by displaying several
dishes that chilly in q French accent
meant Jelly"
IF a guest he say Fix up for me a cool
luncheon, I caro- not what I say-so:
Cold tomato jelly, cold eggs Ia Estra-
gon, supreme Of chicken Mon-Desir.
salad shoreham with Dyer dressing.
bombe glace,. and cafe.
The Dyer dressing, which has been
popular on sweet salads this summer. and
which Is a cherished original recipe OF
the famous Shoreham chef, he consented
to give out. because the ladies Of Wash
"Oulu cIlJOy ~ A4o@NS
It."
DeIectabIc Dressing.
This dressing the monarch Of the
kitchen uses on a salad OF lettuce, with
grapefruit oranges. and apples. A cupful
Of regular French oil dressing In first
made, into which a handful Of finely
chopped watercress is put. tablespoon
full Of chilli sause, a small amount Of
taraEon and shrives and Q drop Of may
onnaise sauce.
This Monsieur Haeringer declares to
be one OF the favorite and best selling
warm weather salad dressings The other
dishes are equally as popular and most
tempting to gaze upon. and the reporter
left the cool kitchen weak with hunger
and thirst
Herr, or Monsieur-for he says that he
10 half and half-Louis Pfa1. chef-in-
chief at the willard. entertained me with
half-hour's recital Of the delectables
that he Is tempting the hotels guests
with this summer.
with q French insight and Q German
outlook. Mr.. PfaR has the combination
Of good cook, and with eleven years at
the willard and q long record OF honor
able service over the stove In New York
and Paris. he has quite q reputation In
the culinary world.
Vat I give to Washington peoples in
de summer tina?' he asked. as he sat
his ponderous self down and adjusted
his glasses.
His Prised Dishes.
Then he handed to me . menu on
which he marked his favorits and most
prfzed diahek