Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1914-03-11
DAY Of SEVERE
SUITS IS PASSED
Dressy Effects Take Their Place
in the Best of the Tailored
Models.
SOFT sTUFFS NOW IN VOGUE
Newest WeaVes of Taffeta Promise to
Give Better Service Than Did the
Sitter varieties-Moire in
Light Weight "smart"
Material.


~ ONE are the severe talilleurs of
Ia other days, and in their places
are dressy models which SAVIOR
more of the dressmaker's art than the
tailor's. 1t is by means Of the cut Of
the skirt, the flare of the jacket, the
material and the color that the dressy
effect is obtained, rather than by elab-
crate trimmings, for, with the excep-
ton of fancy cuffs and collar, very lit
tie trimming is used.
OF course, the trig. well cut, strictly
tailored suit will be worn, especially
on this side of the Atlantic, for the
American woman is very partial to
this type of costume. 1t is very gen.
orally becoming to the average Ameri-
can figure; in fact, more SO than the
fussier, dressier type Of suit which ap-
peals to the Parisienne. But it VIII
not be worn as extensively as in the
past, when it did duty from early
morning until the lights were liz Even
as a utility suit it will have serious
rival in the dressier type of costume.
Demand for SILK Suits.
The wool cloths are made so very
soft and supple these days that they
can be draped and rufled and punched
up as easily as the silken fabrics. The
vogue for dressy tailored creations,
however, has brought about demand
for silk materials for the so-called
tailored costumes. Taffeta, MORE, the
dull faced satins, faille, crepe de chine,
crepe meteor and silks of this ilk are
being used for the three-piece cos
tunes and the skirt and jacket suits.
Though extremely soft. the new
weaves of taffeta promise to give bet
ter service than the sitter varieties,
whose rustic was sweet music in the
ears of the "fashionably" ambitious in
bygone years. Some Of the better
weaves of these new taffetas do not
look like taffeta at all, but resemble a
lusterless satin with a tiny, cordlike
line. Others are very light in weight,
and though known under the generic
title of chiffon taffeta," they are much
softer and finer than the weaves for
merly recognized under this name.
Creepy Weaves in Demand.
All of the creepy weaves are very
much in demand, with crepe de chine
and crepe meteor as the favorites.
, Equally popular are poplin weaves, the
failles, bengalines and others of this
type. And though generally thought
of as a winter material, moire in the
light weight win be very smart. The
MORE effect is also produced on GER
tain of the satin weaves, and has Ia.
ken the place of the matelasse designs
of last spring. Moire and crepe de
chine are oftentimes combined in the
same costume, with the creepy goods
used in the skirt and the MORE in the
sadcy little jacket.
When to the dressy effect of the
silk material Is added the "dress-up''
| touch OF color, the costume bids fair
to deserve the title Of semi-tailored,
regardless of its cut. Undoubtedly
the all-black and all-white costumes
| will be most popular, the former be-
cause they are always good looking
and enjoy the paradoxical position of
being dressy and yet plain, and the lat
ter because they are the development
of fad started this winter among the
smartly dressed women. The new
greens are sure to be well liked, and If
an all-groen suit is considered too
striking it may be combined with
gray. The brighter shades of blue are
ousting the old-time favorite, navy
blue. and the, dressy silk costumes are
being developed In natter, eco and
sapphire. Even the tango, a reddish
yellow shade, is not considered too
brilliant color in a taffeta costume.
No More Straight Lines.
There are very few tailored lines in
the skirt of the so-called tailored cos
tunes Of the spring. Straight effects
are no longer desirable; the more one
can break up the lines the better.
There are various methods of accom-.
plishing +his. Perhaps the simplest is
the tier skirt of two, three and even
four fiounces. BY adding straight
panel in the front and in the back the
short woman inclined toward embon.
point will find her skirt more becom-
ing. The same woman will like the
tunics Of her other skirts better If she
hangs them with points at the sides or
Grapes them to fall lower at one side.
As long as the bouffant drapery at
the hips is the ideal of the hour the
peg-top skirts are sure to retain their
popularity. In fact, the fulness at the
sides has been materially increased,
and in the more extreme models is ar
| ranged to hang In trouser fashion, If
not in actual Turkish trousers. This
idea has been developed in the skirts
which show the side drapery in prefer
efce to the front or back variety.
Panniers and Panniers.
When Cheruit first introduced her
panniers the stout woman, and. in fact,
all women but those blessed with ex-
IRENE ntheness, viewed them with
alarm. They could see little of grace
or beauty in these bouffant puffings.
But Cherult persisted in making them
and showed such charming modifca.
tons that the alarmists were dis
armed. Today the more practical de
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