South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, 1914-03-27
NEW BLOUSES
EASILY MADE
Many Materials May Be Used
in Popular Separate Waist
Tailored Blouse Shows
New Lines.

The separate waist no longer needs
an apOlOgist. 1t never really died. but
now there is no doubt Of il being in
full. vigorous life. Even for formal
OccasiOns-in the afternoon-it has
an honored place. while for sports.
utility wear. and in connection witt
the tailored suit the separate blouse is
wash net waists are in high favor anu
are cheaper than the crepe de chine
ones or those Of chiffon cloth which
require a lining. Again the chiffon is
used over the net lining. reversing the
usual order. COlOred batistes and
handkerchief linens are popular. while
the novelty crepes and the coloTed all
over lace in shadow or maline WeaVes
are new. For tailored or sport use
the heavy white nabutai silk is an eN-
cellent choice. though crepe de chine
continues i'm vogue.
Raglan sleeve Good.
The raglan sleeve a. an especially
new note. and the yoke at the back
that is elongated TO form the upper
part of the sleeve is also much seen.
For the tailored blOuse-which. hy the
way. is far removed from the severe
lines of the sO-called tailored effect of
recent Nears-lOng sleeves are worn
most; for almost all other uses the
prevailing style is the three-quarter
sleeve or just turning the elbow. y
pointed cuff set on the straight but
toned band of the long sleeve gives a
pretty feminine touch. while many of
the dresSier sleeves are trimmd with
shaped frills. startin% at nothing at the
inner bend Of the I'M at the elbow
and falling about three inches deep
at the back of the arm. klmOno lines
are as good as eVer-when becoming,
the stout viii find the wide armhole
under a Gibson tuck gives better lines.
New Tailored blouse.
A pretty blouse is on tailored lines
and is adapted TO make mp i'm habutai
silk. fine white wolfe. crepe de chine.
colOred hatiste or sheer handkerchief
linen. hoo q pattern with raglan
sleeves and plain fronts that are
shirred slightly 20 the sleeve line IN
front and has the back joined almost
without ~fulluCSs. IF your material IS
striped or figured. he particular To lag
the pattern So the stripes are not
askeW from the neck to the wrist.
Hold the pattern TO you to see II more
f~ullness must be added over the bust
and TO the length of the sleeve
Fun directions are given with each
pattern for Joining the sections. and
advise everyone but the expert sewer
TO spend money for "A good pattern
rather than attempt to COPY the new
blouses by sight The tops OF the
front are gathered and basted to the
bias line of the sleeve 50 as 10 FORM d
fiat fell. which is stitched when the
blouse is fitted with n single or double
row Of stitching on the right side. The
back is Joined in the same way. save
that the gathering is omitted. Basic
the under-arm seams, NJ. and stitch
in a French seam.
Finish With New Collar.
Hem or face back the fronts an
inch deep. and on the right side work
five ~buttonholes from the point OF the
V neck-that comes about an inch
above the bust line-to the waist, pla-
cling the buttons on the left front to
correspond.
Finish the neck with one of the new
pointed collars that roll high at the
back and is about two inches wide
and slopes to thee and a half AT the
fronts. which end half way to the
point of the V. cut the collar double.
stitch on the wrong side. and turn.
Sew the raw edges TO the under side
of the neck opening-which has first
been turned in a half inch-and cover
with a bias facing an inch and a halt
wide. There are various ways OF
Joining "A collar. but this is a neat and
easy method.