Arizona republican., 1913-04-06

Bernard. Francis and other great for eign designers have set the stamp of | their approval upon it. Sometimes l the blouse appears only- in the front l and falls softly over the fitted skirt | of the jacket. The back of this coat is semi-fitting and rounds off into a swallow tail, or is finished in a square panel effect, extending three or four inches below the coat length.
 In other models the blouse shows
 itself in the back. and the fullness is
 held in by a suggestion of a belt
 with a buckle of the material Cords
 of the material are much used to
 outline the blouse effect The blouse
 of another style continues all the way
 round the coat and falls over the
 tight fitting lower portion, which is
 quite short and fits snugly, with the fullneSS placed in a seam several
 inches below the waistline. This seam
 is covered by the fullness of the up-
 per part and is often corded or piped
 In some cases the skirt or lower part
 rounds abruptly away from the front, fastening at the bust. In others,
 especially in the coats for general
 wear, this portion, which is hardly more than d band approximately
 eight inches wide. fits closely around
 the hip, and is fastened with two buttons
 The difference between the Balkan and the Russian blouse is not great;
 the Balkan blouse fits very loosely,
 and is belted quite low on the hip. This belt is often sash knotted to ,lo ,lo1, adapted to the youthful and unde- VelOped figures
 Even the most severely tailored skirt shows some fullness, usually stitched into the seams in the form of flat plaits, and the disposition of drapery is varied. On some skirts | it is quite low, folding the skirt in 1 tightly at the bottom, while in Oth- CTS it is looped over the hips, or held 1 in about the knee. Plaits and flat l folds are characteristic Of the tailor 1 ed skirt, and the drapery is rarely 1 effected by shirring or gatheing. The absence of seams is marked, as | skirts are cut circular, OF with three broad gores, the material extending above the waist line as a belt finish. ; Skirts are still narrow at the foot line. The walking skirt is worn longer, just clearing the ground. Some of the skirts are sashed.
 Sleeves show little change. In the man. tailored they may be long, three quarter length, close fitting or loose 1 with large turn back suff. They 1 are sometimes set in a dropped arm seam, and here and there the kimono sleeve appears, but in the best mo- l dels for street wear the sleeve is | tailored in the body of the coat
 without fullness. Collars are circu- l lar, square, sailor and shawl, but they | are not large.
 | Buttons abound on both coats and
 skirts They are decidedly an inter
 esting feature of this years styles. unique in size, color and compost
 tion. Like the Things, they either
 match the suit or contrast with it. 1 Crystal buttons are frequently cen tered with black or color Whimsi- | cSl little Waistcoats button trimly be- | meath many jackets and very mOdiSh
 are those showing cretonne and Balk- | an tones With the Shepherds plaid 1 or checked suit nothing could be ! smarter than the light red or green | vest.
 Semi-tailOred coats follow the gen l eral lines of the tailored coats, eX- | cept in some instances they are short
 CT. An Eton jacket with a deep pointed back is seen. In the semi | tailored skirt the drapery is more pronounced, with the slash higher and 1 reaching almost to the knee at times. 1 As to skirt length it should escape
 the floor. and wrinklng prettly Ovei
 the shoes to reveal the shoe buckles l Never has hand embroidery been l more in vogue. In bright colors and l conventional designs it adOrns collars, l cuffs and belts.
 The sleeve of the semi-tailored coat | is invariably of the three quarter