davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20

A Special Apron for the Sick Room
white cambric and the nursemaid's
nursery apron. Under the head Of
purely decorative aprons come the
afternoon tea apron, the chafing- dish
apron, and the coquettish apron of the
parlormaid. Sewing aprons hover be-
twixt and between. Some of them are
strictly businesslike-for example, the
voluminouS apron which the dress
maker blythe day ties on before start
ing work and which is equipped with
various pockets, and pincushion and
shears dangling from tapes. Then
there is the fetching piazza needle
work apron, made of dotted swiss and
lace with artful ribbon bows; or of
silk or some other tinted material
that gives tone to the whole costume
Dotted net makes the prettiest sort
Of apron and if the cut is oval the
effect will be more dainty than in the
case of square-cornered apron which
seems to proclaim itself Immediately
as strictly utilitarian. Ono of the
aprons pictured, is dotted net and
white lawn combined in a novel way.
Each fabric is cut in deep vandyke
points and the points are dovetailed
together under an entire deux of
Cluny. To make this apron, lay half
yard of dotted swiss and half a yard
Of fine white lawn together, each fab
ric overlapping the other about ten
inches (the depth of the vandyke
points,. Basic the materials together
and with a ruler and lead pencil,
mark lines for the vandyke points
These lines can be ruled best on the
smooth surface of the lawn. Now
baste carefully along the ruled lines
which will attach the materials to-
gether at the intersection or dovetail-
ing of the points. Basic narrow cluny
Insertion or entire deux, over the bast-
ing stitches which hold the materials
together. clipping away the lawn and
swiss outside the points as you GO
along and stitching the cluny down
along both edges. Bands Of blue rib
bon are stitched below the vandyke
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20

points on the dotted swiss and the
apron is finished all around with
lace frill, set on under an insertion
of the cluny banding. The star and
circle shaped decorations are medal
lions of Irish crochet lace, appliqued
to the dotted swiss; but these deco
rations are not essential to the dainti-
ness of the apron and may be omitted
if desired.
The apron with a fichu surely full
fills all masculine ideals of what an
apron should be, for 1t combines the
two aforesaid badges of gentle wom-
anhood; namely, the fichu and the
apron, in it's tout ensemble. This
! pretty apron is not unlike the coquet-
tish afternoon apron of the parlor-
maid; but a maidservant, correctly
dressed, never wears ribbon bowknots,
and usually machine embroidery and
not lace trims her apron and cap.
The frivolously pretty apron pictured
! is of organdie trimmed with three
ungathered frills of val lace, each
frill being stitched over the next One.
The fichu is shaped to fit smoothly
| over the shoulders, the pleated front
portions being ATTACHED under band
of lace, to a fiat, collar-like back por-
ton. Fichu and apron are attached
to a hemmed belt of the organdie
which buttons at the back.
A fascinating little chatting dish
apron may be made from a mans
linen handkerchief. One corner of
the handkerchief Is separated from
the rest of the square by double row
of shirring and over this shirring is
stitched a short length of embroidery
beading. Ribbon, passed through the
beading, ties around the waist, and
the little corner above the shirring
forms a tiny bib. The handkerchief
Is edged all around with two rows of
lace, stitched together as in the pic
tured apron with a fichu, and couple
of smart bows to match the ribbon
ties will finish off the apron in proper
style.
In striking contrast to such frivo-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20
Stunning Frocks, Hats and Gowns Worn By the
Smart Set AT Opening Days Of Belmont Park
Y Racing Dainty Wraps Feature Motor
Raiment Midsummer Footwear.

ALF the costumes OF the ParlS
A Mondaine are planned with
view to exploitation at the
races. Auteuil, Longchamps,
and later the Troutville races bring
out gowns and wraps that set the
fashion for half the world and every
couturier of note has two or three
mannequins logged out in the last
word of the mode, at every race meet.
American press representatives who
report fashions go to the races for
copy and the day after a big race,
the new models from Paquin, Poiret
and other couturiers are described at
length in English and American pa
pers while the horses ostensibly
the raison d'etre of the occasion are
scarcely known by name outside of
the Immediately interested sporting
set. In fact the equine portion of a
big race, in the estimation of the
dressmakers, manufacturers of wom-
| ems garments and women readers of
the fashion news are merely ALSO
rams" necessary features of the day,
but not nearly as important as the
Paris-inspired toilettes in grandstand,
club house and paddock.
This spring racing has been revived
after period of somnolence in New
York and the delight of the fashion
ables at its revival was evidenced by
the threng of we'll dressed people at
Belmont Park on the initial day. The
law has put it's ban on racing for
money-as far as professional betting
and bookmaking go. but enormous
private bets may be made over a
horse race as readily as over a yacht
race or game of bridge. and the races
3offering opportunity for sport soci-
ability and the display of lovely cos
tunes are an important addition to
summer activities in fashiondom.
Knowing Paddock Costumes Affected
BY Younger Women.
Youthful members of the smart set,
who adore picturesque effects, fitting
the picture, so to speak, wear at the
traces, trinity tailored coat and skirt
costumes on mannish lines. One of
these paddock costumes Is pictured.
A 1t is made OF snowy serge and has a
jaunty belted coat above a narrow,
perfectly cut skirt short enough to
reveal the toe Of the white boot The
patch pockets, belt, mannish hotched
5 collar and big white pearl buttons
give the coat a sporty, knowing look
which is enhanced by the field glass
In it's dark leather case, slung across
( the shoulder. With the costume are
lfworn heavy white washable dogskin
gloves and a stunning hat of soft
white felt. trimmed with Post I'm
pressionist ribbon.
Young women ON the box seats of
coaches and drags wear sporty man
\ nish coats, also. These coats hang
. loosely from the shoulders and are of
white or very light tan cloth, with pearl
buttons and much stitching at edges
and seams. Such a coat often accom-
panies white tailored frock Of serge,
!. mohair, Or worstec and mohair mix
2 ture. white buttoned buckskin Sbeots
and rather small white hat. Flesh
H. pink chiffon wells. worn with these
,Dhite hats and costumes this sum-
fher. add new and charming color
6oto.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20
ARr07cS/ /6rE rETer.T Co'e
q III LheA2zne

skirt from liquids spattered or spilled.
A handy little woman who can drive
a nail without hitting her thumb, pos
sesses an apron that is the joy Of her
heart. She calls it her workaday apron
and it is made of khaki and Is worn
over full bloomers to the knee, also
of khaki. This apron buttons at the
back and has a bib and shoulder
straps, an ordinary shlrtwalst being
worn under 1t. There are several
pockets across the front; one Of the
right size to accommodate hammer.
another for tacks or nails; still an
other for pins, needle and thread or
whatever else may be needed when
one happens to be at the top of a
stepladder putting up curtains.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20

gunmetal gray chiffon, mounted over
flesh pink tulle to give the semi-nude
effect now in vogue. The broad,
draped sash of black satin rises part
way over the bodice and falls at the
back in one long end which is looped
under at the knee. In front, the bod
ice divides in a deep V over a tucker
of white net, small steel buttons edg-
ing the V'd opening. An important
part of the smartness of this costume
are the shoulder scarf of steel en-
broidered gray crepe de chine, and
the hat of black net with its extraor-
dinarily long streamers of black vel
vet.
Black hats accompany a large ma
jority of the frocks worn at the races.
and many of these black hats are
draped with black wells which are
drawn smoothly back under the chin,
the ends floating at the back. Such
wells are not large--they fall scarcely
to the shoulders, and the upper edge
is sewed fast to the hat in the new
French fashion. Sometimes the veil
is thrown ba *, yelling the colored
trimming softly, and sometimes the
exquisitely dainty pattern of the veil
makes a becoming screen over the
face.
Futurist Coats Gay and Cheerful.
| Few formal costumes of the type
worn on the grandstand or at the
club house at dinner hour after the
races, are coatless. There is almost
invariably the softly clinging little
wrap, or Its twin sister, the gay and
| 1T. ILL r
these coats are made of plain coiored
sillSen stuff, as in the case of the Nat
tier blue coatee above described; and
many are of the new Futurist and
Post Impressionist silks, than which
no material could go farther in regard
| to gay and glaring hues. The Futur-
list silk coat pictured, has pink and
pale yellow roses on a deep green
ground, and hint Of mauve Is
worked into the design in the way of
festooned ribbon. No definite pat
tern appears, however. as the silk is
accordion pleated throughout and a
blurred blend of all the colors Is pre-
sented to the eye. The coat is a sim
| ply cut affair, with wide, set-in sleeves
! edged with pleated frilling. A collar
| of Bohemian lace falls over the shoul-
ders and at the waistline the garment
| is bloused over a sash of mauve taf-
feta. This coat accompanies an in
tricately draped gown of lilac tinted
lansdowne and the jaunty hat is in
| lilac and violet tones The black
suede reticule and black boots with
buttoned tops of pale gray suede tone
down the varied colors of the Co.'S
| tune.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20

gray or mastic suede. sometimes 1t
is entirely of suede; and with white
costumes white buttoned buckskin
boots are the favorites. Slippers and
pumps are seen also, though the but
toned boots are generally worn with
formal gowns. Slippers with very bril-
liant buckles are being dropped by the
exclusives now that such buckles with
a meretricious and not a genuine cut
steel sparkle, are being sold at fifty
cents the pair in the shops; and the
covered leather buckle is considered
better form.
Parasols a Feature of Race Days.
One of the gayest features of any
out door occasion in summer time,
is the array of colored parasols, lifted
over, charming costumes which are
trailed across lawn and paddock.
Cherry colored sunshades and mus
tard yellow ones predominate in
French crowds of fashionable folk this
year: but Americans love the white
parasol which seems to complete SO
perfectly a thin midsummer costume.
The white parasol pictured is a can
opy model of white handkerchief lin
en- and machine embroidered medal
lions, set together with tiny frilled
pipings of white net. A pleated ruff
fie of the net also borders the parasol
and the handle of white wood Is set
with pink and white cameo. This
cameo is part of the color scheme of
the costume, for the net skirt wells q
slip of flesh pink silk, band of lace
being set on the skirt beneath the net
drapery, at the knee. The folds OF
the skirt are drawn into narrow lines
by one of the new oblique sashes-of
flesh pink silk and lace. which starts
at the left hip and is drawn downward
and knotted back of the right knee,
the sash crossing the skirt obliquely
both at back and front. Over this
yelled flesh tinted skirt falls q capti-
waiting little coatee of Natter blue
charmeuse, trimmed with shirred
bands, and having a deep collar of the
charmeuse edged with black net
frill over a white net frill, and an in
ner collar OF very sheer batiste en-
| broidery edged with Irish banding
The looped up sleeve is particularly
smart. A black hat adds the accentu-
ating note to this grandstand costume
A stunning Gray and Black Frock
Worn ut Autcuil.
One of today's illustrations 10 q
snapshot taken at.Auteuil and shows
an exceedingly chic cptsume all IN
soft tones of gray and black-a fav-
ored combination just now OF certain
aristocratic mondaines who like to be
different from all the world-dressed
in fast and furious F'uturist and Post
| Impressionist hues. This particular
frock Is of black lansdowne, the
straight. narrow skirt having tunic
to the ankle. the underslkirt beneath
dragging Imply about the feet and
iifting. with every step, at the back In
the odd but modish fashion of skirts
this summer. Black patent leather
boots with buttoned tops of gunmetal
| gray suede accompany the frock
! which has deep yoke and sleeve Of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20
Grandstand Wraps of Silk and
Brocade.

In contrast with these mannish
coats are the graceful. clinging wraps
worn with grandstand costumes. This
is the heyday of the silken wrap and
countless fetching models may be seen
on a race day. The Partisan particu-
can women, inherently preferring
trinity fitting garments, have become
educated to the mantle-like wrap and
wear 1t with almost If not quite as
much grace as Parisiennes. A typical
grandstand wrap is pictured in the
model of American Beauty brocade.
This wrap has the new cut, the ma
terial being tossed over the shoulder
and then drawn around under the
arm and attached to the front por-
ton under a line of trimming-in this
instance line of pleated quilting be-
ing used to cover the seam. This
manipulation of the material gives the
wrap close and clinging lines below
the hips and makes it fall in the ap-
proved, straight fashion at the back.
The American Beauty wrap pictured,
forms part of charming color
scheme. 1t is worm over a froc1 of
biscuit colored lansdowne and cream
lace, and the very Partisan button
strap slippers are of light tan suede
worn with stockings of the same tint
The reticule of black velvet adds the
sharply contrasting color note neces-
sary to accentuate the combination OF
pale tan and American Beauty tones
The hat is a rose colored straw model
with American Beauty colored plumef
and the handsome ostrich collar is II
soft shade of rosy gray. The sleeves
of this wrap are particularly graceful
with their trimming of pleated white
frills banded with black velvet ribbon
White Dresses With Striped Sashes a,
French Races.
At Longchamps. one day recently
several women wore white crepe de
chine frocks garnished gayly with
Bayadere and Roman striped sashes
One of these frocks had four fiounce.
of malines lace on the skirt and the
sash was in Roman stripping of tur.
quoise. tea rose, amethyst and shrimf
pink. With this lovely costume wenl
leghorn hat trimmed with lace and
tea roses, black velvet streamers fall.
ing at the back and adding tellins
emphasis to the delicate tones of the
costume.
White dresses touched up with mar.
row fur bands have also been a Tea,
ture Of the French races this sum
mer. One such frock, worn by a yer,
youthful woman. was of dead white
machine embroidery veiled with q net
tunic, the tunic being bordered with
skunk fur. A band of the same fui
and one big red rose trimmed a white
hemp hat, and with the costume were
worn the inevitable criss- strar
slippers which Parisiennes are affect
ing now. These slippers are usually
Of suede and the straps button across
the instep. revealing very thin sill
stockings. Americans dislike fancifu
footwear, and adhere to trim, daintily
| fitting buttoncd boots and oxfords. thu
material thereof matching the cos.
tune. Sometimes the boot is of pat
! ent leather with q buttoned top ol
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20
Notes and Novelties
BABY WILL CUDDLE UP TO THIS
HOT WATER BAG.
- HE rubber hot water bag will take

~ HE rubber hot water bag will take
a up very little room in the vacation
w trunk, and it may be an unex-
pected friend in need during the weeks
away from home. Good health. fine
spirits and hearty appetite are bless
ings anticipated and even taken for
granted on a vacation sojourn In the
have a way of cropping up in the
night after children have eaten candy
or taken cold and neuralgia and rheu-
matism sometimes attack older folk
If a rainy spell of weather sets in
Then comes the cry for a comforting
hot water bag to tuck against ones
back, or at ones feet. or under ones
pillow, to drive away gruesome pain
with its grateful warmth. Children
sometimes object to a hot water bag
unless the water is so tepid as to be
of no use. One mother has hit upon
the scheme of dressing up the family
hot water bag in q dolls kimono of
outing flannel, and to this is fastened
an indestructible dolls head covered
with flannel cap, the cape of which
falls over the top of the kimono. This
tpveable and costly warm bedmate ap-
peals to baby's heart and the little
sufferer who would scream frantically
at an ordinary hot water bag of rub
Der, will cuddle up close to the kindly
dolly that soon makes the pain less.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20
AN ATTRACTIVE BRIDGE PRIZE
Is A TEA BALL.

HNEW tea ball is shaped like a
III miniature tea kettle, lid spout
v and all. and the kettle hangs by
a silver chain from small crane. The
crane is of gun metal finished silver
and is about six inches long, with an
extended arm at right angles to which
the teapot is attached. The crane
may be fastened to pillar of the
veranda, or the casing of window
near the tea table and the little kettle
which is of course perforated, may be
lifted off whenever 1t is needed for
use.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20

lous affairs is the big apron for sick
room wear. Illness often occurs In
the home and nobody likes to go into
an invalid's room In a soiled gown,
bearing testimony to work in the
kitchen or other parts of the house.
On the other hand, the service in the
sickroom may require an apron to
protect dainty frock, and in any
case, it is desirable 10 present ones
self to the invalid, be that unfortunate
person child or adult. in a fresh, neat
attractive uniform-like costume. The
apron pictured fulflls all these condi-
tions. 1t is made of blue and white
striped percale and protects bodice.
sleeves and skirt thoroughly, while 1t
may be fastened III an instant with a
single button and buttonhole at the
back of the belt. The ruffie at the
foot is not added merely as a TRIM
ming. Every housekeeper knows the
value of ruffle at the foot of a kitch-
en- apron in protecting the edge of the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20
MoNoCLEs THE SUMMER FAD.

YYBOMEN who do not possess q
modish monocle, wear a lorg-
~ nette or a watch at the end OF
the black ribbon sautoir chain which
gives such snappy touch to summer
costumes. Monocles are extremely
fashionable and are affected by young
girls as well as older women whose
eyes really need assistance.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20

any church fair, than the
= fancy ever conceived of.
Some of these aprons are practical;
some are pretty; some are enchant-
ingly useless and decorative. The
masculine mind usually prefers the
decorative kind, for of all attributes of
feminine dress, dearly does man love
the demure fichu and apron-in his
estimation the badges of home-loving
womanhood.
Among the useful aprons may be
listed the kitchen apron of gingham,
the housewifely apron of the brand
new bride-an adorable affair of pink
percale with becoming cut and but
tons at the back which somebody must
fasten in order to adjust the affair prop
erly-the artists pinafore of blue lin
en- with long sleeves and a huge pock-
ct in which paint rag may be tucked;
the trained nurses immaculate apron;
the chambermaid's morning apron of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-07-20

MAA ORE sorts of aprons may be
V found at the apron-table of
any church fair, than the
y > + fancy ever conceived of.
Douglas Island news., 1913-09-03
The NOrthIand
The Latest News, from Reliable Sources, Concerning the Great
 North. Condensed.
Information for Everybody.

Alaska matters are again up for dis cussion at the national capital.
 A special term of the district court commenced at Fairbanks today
 The coal miners strike at Nanaimo, B. c has almost reached the civil war stage
 The Dawson Daily News is shipping a complete newspaper outfit to the new Chisaua gold camp.
 The Commoner, published at Valdez, brands the Scolai pass route to the Chisana as a "death trap"
 Conrad Sorley, a fisherman of Peters burg, was drowned near Beaches pass, Wrangell narrows, on August 23rd.
 The site for the detention hospital for the insane has been secured at Fairbanks, and building will begin at once.
 Western senators have asked Presi- dent Wilson to pardon Houston and Bullock, convicted of coal frauds in Alaska.
 The White Pass Company again has threatened to pat lineof freight aud passenger steamers on the Seattle Skagway run.
 Ed Dugau, whose mother lives at BIOS South Pine street, Tacoma, Wash., is supposed to be wandering around in this part of the great North.
 Wrangell sportsmen are planning to plant wild rice in the ponds and lakes near the Stikine, where thousands of ducks and geese feed every fall.
 A noted trapper by the name of Descham beault claims to have first discovered the blond Eskimo of the far North, and says that Stefansson is fakir
 The Arctic ship Karluk, with the ! Stefansson expedition aboard, was SO badly injured in the ice foes off Point Barrow, that the expedition may have to be abandoned until next season.
 The possible abandonment of Fort ! Liscum by the war department is con templated, according to rumOrs in mili- tary circles. Not only Fort Liscumt ! bat every Alaska post will be vacated
 The Alaska Cooperative Fishing & Packing Association has been formed at Wrangeu and will handle fresh salted and mild-cured fish. Owners oi 37 boats have joined the organization
 Down at Washington, D. O., Senator i Poindexter of the state of Washington has secured the senate adoption of a resolution requiring the Panama Canal commission to notify the senate if the machinery used in the construction of the canal could be used or would be available, for the building of railroads in Alaska