The Pensacola journal., 1913-02-25
THE NEW MATERIALS AND
THEIR DEVELOPMENT.

Women who take advantage of the
Lenten season, when social gayety is
at low ebb, to plan their summer
clothes, viii appreciate a description
of the new materials and a few .sug-
gestions for their development. All
fabrics which lend themselves well to
drapery will be approved this season
for drapery is now a recognized feat
ure of the fashions.
These materials are soft and cling
ing and may have either dull or glossy
finish as one likes best. Voile and
crepe, beautiful fabrics of imported
and home production, which not only
launder well but retain their folds and
lines without crushing or getting out
of place, will be much used. They are
to be had in white and all the fash
ionable shades of the winter months
which promise to remain good Sor an
other season, yellow, sulphur, biscuit,
eriton, chalk, putty and oyster. They
may also be had in many new shades
butter yellow, salmon and roseleaf
pink. An usual method of developing
brocaded effects and quite as effective
as though wrought in the weave. 1t is
done by means of block prints, stamped
on the material both in variegated
colors and monotones and on either a
white or colored ground.
Sometimes the design is stamped
only on the border. Especially Is this
the case when the more bizarre ORR
entail colorings, rich red, blues and
green's. are used either III Persian,
Bulgarian or Servian motifs. Wnen
the motif is more subdued, and of
French origin in Louis XIV or XVI
style, it is carried over the surface
of the fabric. But besides the new
printed borders. fancy stripes of rough
weave are also seen on these creme
and voiles. The open drawnwork bor-
der both on these materials and on
linen and ratine is very pleasing and
perhaps one of the most attractive of
this form of decoration. Borders ct
plush of loosely y-knotted chenille
threads, resembling French knots, CT
Slavic designs in curiously wrought
motifs and gay colorings, are all to be
seen on the new summer fabrics.
Very dainty is dotted crepe frock
shown In a Pensacola shop. The
ground of the material is white with
small blue circular spots. A large
lace collar with graduated extension
fronts trims the surplice waist. Cuffs
of lace finish the elbow sleeves. The
left side Of the skirt is caught up IN
folds from the front to the back
in the fashionable draped effect. II
is cut in two pieces an dhas a front
inset piece. Among summer fabrics
now being developed for fashionable
southern resorts, silk Bedford cord is
having an unusual vogue for smart
semi-tailored afternoon suits. This
fabric comes in a variety OF shades
both pastels and decided tones, but
white is, perhaps the most beautiful
and the most generally favored
Poplin too. in silk, wool and cotton
Is very attractive and comes in plain
weave. moire and broeaded effects.
Whipcord and heavy bengaline are
also often used. A material introduced
last fall. known as velour de laine, will
be much in fashion for the very cary
spring. This soft, silky. wooden fabric
has been somewhat supplanted during
the past few months by the rich satin
and charmeuse brocades. but is comirg
into It's own again with an acclaim
that shows the feminine mind really
appreciates beautiful textures. For the
woman OF intuition in dress the flelI
Of color and fabric has rarely offered
greater opportunity. With white as
the main groundwork. there is a fas-
cinating variety of outline. tracery
and embroidery. The inevitable girdle
sash or belt affords ample opportunity
to strike an individual note This may
be carried out in the soft Balkan silks
Roman stripes. Gobelin blue or MORE
velvet ribbons. A graceful gown seen
in another -Palafox street store was
developed in figured silk the brosa led
effect Of which was done by the
block-printing process described above
/ It combines in it's landings moire vel
vet ribbon. The groundwork OF the
silk IS white and the blossoms are
wild roses with dark green leaves
The ribbon banding harmonizes iI
coloring with the green of the leaf
The waist has loose blouse front
dropped shoulder and short sleeves. =
band of ribbon encircies the neck and
/ edges the slashed sleeves. The skirt