The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-09-28
The New Fashions

thrown into tumult by the exhibit
lions of the leading Fronch coutu-
rters For weeks before the date Of
the hrst opening tho atraosohare
where two or more students OF fashion
are gathered together. Is charged with
ru,lors' mere straws which are care
! tully considered in the hope that they
| VIII tell which way the wind of fash
ION IS TO blow. one hears wondcrfnl
| tates or the changes that are to take
Piacc-changcs which Will so COM
pletely revolutionizo the stvlos thnt
the gowns of yesterday will be doomed
TO tho ash barrel. But these dire
changes never take place. This year
even less change than usual is 10 ho
! noted.
one reason why the few novelists in
| roodced at the openings do not i'm
| press ono with their newness is be-
cause they were broadly limited at sew
eral weeks IN advance Much to the
surprise o. the satellites OF fashion.
many oil the new models were Worn
| during la grande semainc" at Dea1-
VIE. The bounced skirts were every
! where IN evidence and the hoop tun;c
had become such everyday occur
renee that it failed to create further
comment.
Flare Over IIips
The opening OF Nine paauin. 10
usual created much interest though
there were no gowns designed by Bakst
- hui 20 tue cNCIteiuent. After Christ
! mas he promises TO leave his portroit
painting long enough to supply Nine
faquin with some designs but this
WIN not be until after his trim to
America The double and triple fiounces
on the skirts are featured Sometimes
they are pleated. again they are al
lowed 10 fall in generous pufrs. sim
liar to the one shown In the sketch
The flare over the hips Is accentuated
In many gowns BY drawing up the
tunic at the sides In the black velvet
gown in the sketch further attention 10
called to this flare by outlining tho
sides Of the tunic with fur and rufi,ea
of lace
There is always point OF interest In
Nine. Paquin's sleeves which are never
commonplace. The sleeves OF the black
velvet gown have the kimono top-few
or the couturicrS seem able to break
away from this becoming and comfort
able arrangcment-and this oversleeva
Is slashed just above the elbow. lust
enough to permit the rufle OF lace TO
peep through. Undersleeves Of tho lace
arc slightly tucked and extend almost
completely over the hand
There is Just enough OF the courtIv
suggestion from the Louis w period
In the waistcoat OF white MORE to an
peal to Nine. Paquin who favored
waistcoats and long coats with todct
basques long before the other design
crs thought OF following her eyan,nle
Several were included in her opcnins-
last fall. though 1t was not until the
spring that the style received popular.
recognition The strip OF mink fur
across the front of the waistcoat sur-
Eests n watch chain. Another touch
OF the fur appears at the neck where
n standing collar forms "a becoming.
frame.
Her long coats were Offset by several
models suggesting the eton, and others
he "a
were thick and bunchy in effect. an
idea borrowed from the Japanesc
which has not departed with the other
Oriental ideas
The length of the jackets has been
Il much mooted point, and win thn
doctors or the modes in disaprao,,,nt
on The subject. one may choose which
ever style is most becoming. snfe in
the thought that if il Is becoming il
Is sure to be fashionable. Some OF tho
couturiers are showing n coat that
reaches quite TO the tops of the she's
others favor n medium length viii
godet basques and wide belts: whilc
sun others cling to the very shorr
coats. which reach very little ii any.
below the waistline in the front
thoush they may display tails in the
back The later style IL must he ad-
mitted, Is born or necessity atber tt,an
choice, for how il one 10 wear a long On.
medium length coat with ono OF tha
new skirts, where the fulness stick
OUT perceptibly from the hips to tho
knees?
Some Plain Dresses Left.
The long coats must be worn with IN,
piaih dresses. and there are a few lnft
tnough after viewni, hundreds AZ
Hounces and TUNES one Is ant to RI
member only bouffant drapings and
wired tunics With the pegtop and
tfouser skirts, where the fulness comes
Tla al.
knees. the short Jacket must be worn
and the effect Is Very jaunty and very
girlish--that Is, of course If ono IA
tan and slender and the designer or
fashions seems to have no other model
in his eye
Ihe two-tier skirt is we'll illus
tratcd In the model gown or blue so,rc
Just the type OF gown that one needs
during the fall days when the fang
In the air makes 4 cloth costume com
PORTABLE, yet II Is not cold enough 10
wear coat. The two ilounces -.
TUNES. OF this skirt are trimmed with
panels or soutache. and one separate
pnnei ta!is almost TO the bottom Of the.
skirt In the front. Tho soutachc en-
broidery is extended 10 the blouse. ana
the waist line is marked by a twisted
belt OF the braid. The yoke and sleeves;
are cut III one piece, and the slight full.
ness OF the sleeve Is gathered Into i
cum OF the soutache edged with a strip
OF ermine. Another strip OF the FUR
outlines the N-shapcd neck. which ia
finished with white satin collar.
While there is nothing strilingly new
IN this gown. IL is most decidedly wear
able. ana certain OF the new features
have heen adapted III a form SO con-
s"rNativc that they please without call
ing forth comment on their newncss.
skirts Narrower nj Ankles
fI.at Il
| IulncsS between thigh and knee thev
| are piutully scant and narrow nj the.