The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1913-05-12
BY Ida AMES WILLIS.

| 1t is not surprising that this country
has produced class of epicures OF
rare and discriminating taste more
subtle and dainty than the most IA
nous gourmet of the Old Worlds gas
tronomic history. And here we are re-
minded of a story pertinent and to the
| point in describing the difference be-
tween a gorumet and a gourmand-two
broad varieties of French lovers OF
eating very generally confused or con-
sidered one and the same, but, in TACT,
complete opposites.
Two Englishmen were discussing the
subject of eating, and says one to the
other: emery, wot his han hepicureE
Henry replied: "Why-ee, an hepicure is
bloke as will heat hennything. This
description fits a gourmand admirably.
| for his love of eating has degenerated
to mere gluttony. He devours his food
| in quantities and indiscriminately.
emitting not a single dish. Conse-
uuently such eaters are continually
satiated but never satisfied, and are the
people who are ever complaining OF
! the dishes served them in restaurant
and hotel. On the other hand, a gour-
met, being decidedly aesthetic In MS
taste, because a product of higher CIV
ilization, is decidedly temperate in eat
| ing He knows that to be able to fully
| the dishes he most favors he must pre-
serve the keen edge Of his appetite and
the delicate acuteness of his sense or
taste. Thus his palate. being in most
| healthy and natural condition, ne not
only enjoys but prefers plain and SIM
| pIe fare requiring, however. nothing
short of excellency in cooking. In
short, a gourmet who may indulge MS
taste, lives as a gentleman ought to
1 -nf
appreciation of 1.-The lovely beautlfuI
eating there is in the world
should Not Wreck Taste.
Therefore, however fond one may be
of certain edibles, they should not sac
rifice the refined nicely OF cultivated
taste to overmuch devsement of novel
and cunning inventions to trick the
palate or seek to prolong the time for
serving foods that are not always sea-
sonable This as much as anything
else, is the line of demarcation between
the gourmet and the gourmand. One
NAV be excessively fond of oysters, yet
feel no great regret that for few
months they must deny themselves.
For other shell fish, to some minds
greatly to be preferred, are here TO
speed the parting guest. The most
approved of these, to Southern taste
at least, is the sweet-meated crab. One
should be near the source of supply
to fully enjoy the crab, as the meat has
a most delicate flavor and sweetness.
peculiarly its own, which is quite as
transient as the fine flavor of the oys-
ter Down on the Eastern Sho', and
from there to- the Gulf. you may learn
many interesting points in crab cook
cry and enjoy the delicate fare in all
its pristine perfection.
T,,.+l,, rotahrofed the WAYS the
native crab cooks who follow recipes
handed down from the first generation
of experts, nor seek new methods or
Innovations. knowing full well there
is no room for improvement on the va
rious delightful ways they are familiar
with.
How TO Prepare the Crab Meat.
No cook Justly proud Of her crab
dishes will buy crabs already cooked.
For like the lobster, the meat is at its
hest only when used directly after the
crab is cooked: said crab being very
much alive until ii takes its final
plunge into a briny bath. Have sum-
cient water in q deep boiler TO fuiiy
cover all the crabs you intend TO COOK.
Do not attempt to handle them, as you
would a live lobster, for obvious rea-
sons. To cook the meat for the max
ing of the various delectable dishes,
add salt enoue'A to make the water
briny, them three in the crabs and boil
about I'VE minutes, in order to Kali
them. Never boil them q minute after
the shells turn red. or they will be-
come watery. Drain and cool the crabs
sufficiently to handle. then twist OF the
claws and crack; separate the joints;
remove the apron or tablier-the loose
flats on under shell-the dead mans
fingers, and take off the spongy SUBJ
stance. Pull the crabs open. keeping