Bisbee daily review., 1913-06-01

expected that the ahandonins Of e strict rules governing the detailr style Of cut, etc, in womens fashions would first lead to displays of origin aiity to absurd and sensational ex- tremes. Ever since the coming into fashion of the hoL5le skirt things have gone from bad to worse and now the point has been reached when an exhibition of she latest models by the noted fashion designers of Paris and other fashion centres reminds enc Of nothing so much as of an exhibition of Cubist "arGr
 One of the latest freak notions is the adoption of the Japanese sil- honette as interpreted by the western originators Of fashions Only a short time ago one of the best known i'm porters displayed a model which was so completely Japanese that is caus ed those who saw it to gasp with as tonishment. The costume was in the new taffeta which is quite unlike the old material One occasionally sees on the street woman wearing a dress of changeable taffeta of the kind that was popular a few seasons ago. lt IS excessively brilliant Of sur face, while the new weaves of the fab Tic have curious filmy sheen. el most like the soft bloom on a palm
 The Japanese model refefred to was in light taffeta 1t had a seton hem of the same material and the regular 'obi" or broad sash which the Japan csc woman wears around her waist and ties in an immense butterfly bow In the back. The material stood away from the back of the rock quite stiff The only trimming vas embroidery of green and silyery gray floss silk n a Japanese arrangement Of square Naturally this iranKiy Japanese cos tune is another of the extremes that are constantly submitted to public in spection. But fashion designers only too often Intentionally overshOot the mark which they mean shall be their final aim. They know that the winds of popular prejudice and the resist ance of the average feminine conser- vation will make these eklgeratel flights land eventually at some reas- enable point.
 It is safe 70 predict that in the mat ter-of#the new figures, comparatively feW..women will go to an ugly extreme. Of course. there are always women, vulgar in their tastes and eager for something sensational. no matter how inartistic and improper it may De, who will espouse anything freallish and absurd merely for the sake of at- 1racting attention and gathering mo- ioriety. But the bulk of the women even among those who devote a great deal cf their time. thought and money to fashion matters. are to a great extent conservative and not easily persuaded to adopt outre fashions.
 New girdles and sashes appear as by magic every few days, and some of them are fearful and wonderful iu- deed Others will be unohjectionable if they are discreetIy reserved for wear with white and cream summer frocks. or these are the new pongee sashes in Cu5ist designs and colors. They are from ten to ighteen inches in width and look more like crepe than pongee The ends are gathered in tassels made Of the COlOrS shown n the printed patterns.
 Shoes and hosiery become more aui more striking; and such variety and novelty were never born to blush un- sesn;- either: French fashion crea- tions may issue edicts against siashed ssilys sntH they are tied, with these tempting specimens of footwear spread out before them, many American wo- men will snap their fingers at the edict from Paris and will demand a chance 10 display the new fnery.
 Many of the shoes are really charm ing, and they will be especially so with Summer frocks. There is nothing es- sentially vulgar in a colored heal. On the contrary, when it is a component part Of the color scheme of a costume. it forms an attractive note. The com bination of different fabrics with leath- CT in some of the low shoes has also produced many really good and at tractive effects-as well as many ex- U-mely bad ones
 Novelties in hosiery are to be adopt ed with much more caution than those in shoes this season. And certainly the two are not to be worn together when the novelty" is in the least con spicuoUs. If the shoes are plain. one may permit ones self a departure rom the absolutely plain silk stocking, although most women of good taste will confine themselves to the change able effects, to woven stripes in plain color, or at most 70 the lace stripes when worn with a lingerie frock.
 Most of the stamped patterns for Embroidered waists presuppose black closing. ana most of the waists this year are made with a front closing. The problem which confronts the wo- man who buys two or three stamped shirt waist patterns for pickup em- broidery in the warm weather is how 10 make a front closing right through the center of the embroidery design. Sometimes the pattern will be SO open and loose that 1t will not be difficult to cut the waist from top to bottom either in the front or else on the left side for a closing there. Many of tGe prettiest Of the new waists have side closings which run either straight up and down or diagonally from shoulder 10 waist.
 An applied hem of the material of the waist can be put on for the button holes and a facing or underlap can be made for the buttons. The hem can be in the form of a narrow. stitched