The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1913-10-18

| lies III InlS llHe. DrOcade in bold
design Of Burgundy red on white
forms, for instance, the upper part of
a point mantle, while the lower portion
is a band of the solid red. This is
perfectly simple, falling like shawl,
finished by one of the huge collars of
sable. New fur collars, by the way,
have a curious tendency to find their
place as far from the neck as possible
in the back.
Many short wraps of velvet, brocad-
ed or plain, finished with fur, and also
made entirely of fur, and short fur
jackets accompany the afternoon
gowns of satin or velvet. The favor
lite furs for jackets are caracul, broad
tail, dyed squirrel, called "zibelinette,' .
mink, and sealskin. These have col
lars of putois, civet, fox in every con-
ceivable shade and type. Many jackets
of cloth are also trimmed with a col
lar and cuffs of these latter furs, also
of leopard, pony and Jackal
Tailored jackets have lost their stiff
ness entirely. They are made of the
soft ratines and plush-like materials,
also of the new cotton velvets, striped
like corduroy, and, in spite of all this,
of the ever favorite dark blue serge.
Any number of jackets are in contrast
with the material of the skirt, such as
jackets of Scotch plaid, with skirts in
plain dark blue serge or broadcloth.
One house makes a specially of two
flounce pleated skirt of black and
white shepherds plaid, worn with a
jacket of black ratine.
AS to jacket length, it varies from
the waistlne to the latest depth, which
is about at the ankles. In this latter
case the portion of the skirt showing
below the jacket is often entirely offur
1t would seem reasonable that either
this very long, rather ample jacket, /
sort of Russian blouse, or one which
reaches the short loose hip-line, will
become popular; the former with tall
women, the latter with small women,
provided they are not too fleshy. One
piece dresses for afternoon wear are
the excuse for a new line, very long
wasted in the back, which buttons to
reach them in a straight line without
curve from the neck down.
Nearly all blouses shown in the shops
have low collars. There are many
kinds of new collars in the market and
all are large and broad except the
adapted Japanese collar, which is
about two inches wide, rolls back on
the gown, runs to the waist in a neg
| ligent line and stands away from the
back of the neck for two inches.
While the backs of bodices are high,
it is not fashionable now to run the
line up to the hair. On coats, as we'll
as on blouses, the collar springs away
from the neck as soon as it passes the
shoulder, no matter how high it may
be- One does not see high collars,
however, on blouses. They are kept
for coats. The rolling Japanese affairs
leads all others, but the sailor collar
is back in style and is put on the
smartest kinds of waists.
The only neck ornament worn in
front is loose Gravel, usually of black
taffeta, and many of the individualists
tie this ribbon into loose four-in-hand
instead of a bow. No matter what
kind of collar is used, it is cut quite
low in front, and none of the women
seem to mind. Afternoon bodices that
are part of gown have exceptional
ly low broad collars of lace, with a
fiat fichu effect inside, crossed surplice-
wise over the bust and held there by
a bar-pin.
There is new collar that has Just
made its appearance called the Henry
H." 1t is small, stands up little,
then rolls over is far away from the
neck as the back, and vanishes to
point at the sides of a decolletage
which would be square, except that it
broadens out over the bust 1t is not
popular yet. but it is promised as the
new decolletage in afternoon gowns
for the winter.
If one does not wish to expose the
neck, then a guimpe must be worn, for
there is no way of building up the
blouse into high collar without max.
ing it trifle old-fashioned. The col
lars on coats are often high and
straight, and others have an immense
flare at the back, then turn over for
twice their depth. Most of these are
made of velvet or fur.
Among the fashionable accessories