Smyrna times., 1913-01-15

north and east, but to the south they
rpen somewhat and allow a peep at
the Lake of Scutari. partly in Mon
tenego and partly in Turkey. From
here on the country is tangle of
mountains. After more climbing we |
reached a thinly populated fertile
tract with trees, small gardens and |
quite a respectable wood. The way
side was bright with wild flowers, the
most noticeable being a large variety
of cowslips and the pretty mauve
anemone, sweet smelling herbs and
the true shamrock that was hailed
with fervor by the Irish members of
our party.
At Last Ceitinje Lay Before Us
At last Cettinje lay before us, and
we raced down the hill side as fast as
the horses could go. 1t was difficult
to think of it as the Capital of Mon
tenegro, for to our eyes it seemed a
prosperous and fertile village lying
in an amphitheatre of glorious noun
tains. Much to our delight we found
a lodging in the town one only mealed
at the hotel. Our host and his fam
lily were most hospitable and friendly,
and though they spoke only Cyrillean.
an off shoot of Russian. by signs and
smiles we soon came to a mutual un-
derstanding. They did their utmost
to make US comfortable and insisted
on seeing US satisfactorily installed
for the night when we retired to bed.
One little difficulty arose in the mat
ter of towels, one towel was supposed
enough for three persons, but in the
end we were given one piece. On
leaving and making small remunera-
tion to the maiden who attended to
our wants she, to our dismay, sank
on her knees and kissed our hands,
with words of thanks and shining
eyes.
Fortunately for US, we found that
our young guide spoke very fair En-
glish, learned in America, and to MIN
we appealed when signs and gesticu-
lations were of no avail. We strolled
through the place, visited the market,
one or two bazars and the one good
tailor shop. We there inspected and
tried on coat after coat, to the vast
amusement of the half dozen men at
work on a raised bench by the win
dow. When we left the town these
men all came to the door to smile and
wave US adieu.
Of the buildings nothing is very
noticeable. The Royal Palace is new
and unpretentious and often the King
is to be seen sitting in the open ad-
ministering justice and holding his
small court to which all his subjects
are welcomed. Close by are the old
est buildings in the place, the Bar
racks, the Prison, the Monastery and
the old Palace now used as Govern
ment offices, where the Vladikas
prince and bishop, are buried.
inhabitants Made Much of Us.
The inhabitants made much of us
and in spite of the fierce aspect and
bandit appearance of the men we felt
absolutely safe. We saw the Crown
Prince Daniels and his suite and in
the evening the main street was gay
with men and officers in uniform
staggering up and down or sitting al
the OATES taking stock of every one
who passed by. The Montenegrins
are a fine race. They are ServiaI
fugitives from Turkish sway and are
proud of their independence and de.
voted to their King and Country
The men, with their well-knit figures
their free carriage and handsom
faces are set off admirably by thei
picturesque dress-wide blue and yer
full trousers to the knee, red waist
coat embroidered in black or gold,
colored sash round the middle, int
which are stuck the long, wicke
looking pistol (charged), and knife,
long full coat, cream colored, and tn
long plaid or struka finished with
{ deep fringe and thrown over shoulder
close fitting embroidered logging
and the pointed "opanken'' or fl;
: skin shoes laced over the instep. O
: the head round cap of crimson clot
edged with black silk symbolic of I'll
constant mourning for the loss {
: Servian freedom; on the crown el
closed in a gold rainbow are Il
e Kings initials "H t." emblemat