Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
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The New Cotton Fabrics
Initiate the Winter Ones
Wolfe With jacquard Design Will Be the Novelty
for Spring and Ratne Will Again Be
Popular in Various Weaves.

, chinese blue. One Of the best frocks
worn in this deep brown has a draped
skirt over a narrow slashed under
skirt which is faced with the blue and
partly turned back in the shape Of en-
velope flaps. The bodice is half Of shirred
tulle in the same tone OF brown and
extends into a high Medici collar at back
and drops into a deep V in front. Inside
the brown tulle. against the neck line. is
softly drawn a fold OF flesh tulle mingled
with a ribbon Of Chinese blue velvet
which twists itself into a lovers knot at
the bust. The long sleeves are Of shirred
tulle and are finished at the wrist with
frill OF tea lace and a knot Of blue velvet
ribbon.
There is new tone Of pink that also
combines with the fashionable seal brown
but it takes a certain combination of skin
and hair to wear It. It is called nell rose.
Its name came about in an interesting
way. Remembering the popularity of
facturers sent some shades Of pink to
Miss Eleanor Wilson. the daughter of
the President-elect. asking her to make a
choice among them. She chose this tone
of rose and the manufacturers immedi-
ately called it nell rose: the shops offer
1t as the novelty in color
All the talk that drifts to and fro con-
corning new colors and fabrics is not as
important or interesting to the woman
who buys clothes as is the gossip about
cut and style. The people in the trade
Of clothes know what tremendous part
fabric plays and they also recognize that
it is almost the only medium Of exclusive
ness in costumes.
There has also ceased to be any strik
ing individuality about one gown or coat
or hat or suit because all the buyers from
America see all the French models at the
same time and make nsAStrously uni
form selection. These are copied by the
thousands over here and a woman who
pays $500 for a gown at her dressmaker.s
Tuesday will see its exact copy for So9.o
In a shop window Wednesday. 1t Is In
the material, and in this only. that
woman can hope to be exclusive in her
choice of clothes.
America neither makes nor imports
large quantities of the French fabrics at
sirable. and so the woman who wears
cutaway suit Of matelasse In October
knows that she will meet hundred like
suits In cut. but probably not two in that
fabric. The exclusive importers Of ma
terials bank heavily on this fact and al
low the dressmakers who have a rich
clientele an experimental handling OF
short lengths of remarkable weaves that
also for this reason that woman pays
more for the fabric she uses than for any
novelty in style. She has learned this
expensive lesson at a large cost and the
importers have taught it to her.
But are there so few novelties in style,
you ask. The answer is that there are
more novelties than the average woman
cares to keep up with, but the present
wholesale method Of copying a new cut
that is shown in Paris destroys a nov
city as soon as it Is out. The mills evi-
IDENTIFY in America cannot work as rapidly
as the tailors and dressmakers do, be-
cause they do not supply novelty material