The chronicle=news., 1913-05-23

New York. May :1.--No~ that
proyident women are busy with
preparing their outfits for the sum
mer. they are confronted with man,
Intricate problems. chief anon.
them the question ~ To the style Of
frock II would bc hest for them To
choose. II may be sald that skirts
of wash material are either plain.
fiounr-d. or with tunirs, some AL
t.mpts have been made to produce
iraped skirts In the tub froeks. but
the results are sinIuiarly unatira--
'i,. In mos, easTs II they do no,
please before the dress ls washed
ana ironcd. what rah be expected al
them after they have been submitted
To those always disturbing processes.
TIL. iunir II capable of an almost
Infinite variety Of treatment. and IL
makes possible the general siihpu-
EFT. required by fashion. For the
lighter materials II IL unu.s'ionably
the best idea ON which to work, In
the cas- Of the sii.h, and sirii.h
figure. the nounc-k skirt IL an al
ira.'i,e rival Of the iuni., In III.
heavier materials. such ~ linens. ra-
tines. and their allies. the plain sklr,
Ii best for more reasons than one.
But In these rnxrs tho plsinnrrs can
be broken by deceptive treatment
of tapping seams which give tn.
main lines Of drapcd skirts without
and undesirable bunchinc.s.
collarrttc~. or ruffs. are being
nr ,.d for women by all clar@cs OF
dealers. and the woman are respond
Ing with alacriiy. They seem To
have taken mos, kindly to the full
ruchin. Of maiincs. tied with a bon
OF satin ribbon TO match. These arc
becoming to some women. aud. al
course. nr- rather n necessity with /
the present coiiarIcss. or next to col.
larlcss styles.
tho scparaic white collar TO be- worn |
with the coat. A few years ago girl.
and younger women wore cmbroid-
cred white collars over their coat la
pcls. but the present renaissance OF
the fashion In In u different form
The collars NOW worn are much mor~
attractive and elaborate. They come
In all tho notifications Of the s.,unrr
or rounded cut and very often and
In the ionk ruffic or p'caiinx which
Is No great u lad Just now. others
nrc In the shapc OF u modified fichu.
They are both becoming aud prar-
tic,i. IN they protect tho waist un. !,
der meath. Especially with a collar.
less blouxc they are almost necessary.
Otherwise the hard line Of the coat !
In very trying b,lh In appearance /,
aud In feeling.
FriilS OF the lnO~' engaging charm |
are tho conspicuous fcatuii Of the
separate bi0uscs which have APP
pcnrcd In perfect flood Of grace and
beauty. Almost every blouse dis
played In the numerous shops and
fashion cstabiishni nicnis In New York
has somc kInd Of friii In its makeup
the variety In the forms of
these frills In 20 great that they do
not impress one Ms being too common.
models arc. OF course.
iuiic expensive. but u woman clever
with the needle. can easily make for
herself u charming fr!ll at u ye.y
small cost
The change from the plain French
backs and the plain fronts. with on
|y one tuck at the shoulder seam.
when have characterized the shirt
waists OF recent years. to the present
styles is radical one. The latest
icsi yns. especially In the crepe dc
Chine and the voile waists. have
lcep yokcs into which the lower part
is gathered with considerable full
ness. The yoke runs down in many
'nses on TO the arm. sometimes even
rs far as the elbow. and the sleeve
is gathered into II. The yoke and
he armholc are finished with a cord
ng of the material.
All this is very well in theory. but
he average woman. arrayed in one
" these waists. certainly suggests n
neal sack. The front shirring is all
light. But viewed from the back the