davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
SEWING ROOM HINTS.
Making Summer Curtains.

IT. is advisable to use clear, plain cur
! tains in luxurious apartments ana
heavier ones in rooms to hide nnery
turning a bit shoddy. The new cotton
crepes make pretty hangings for the bed
room, as they may be washed frequent
ly without fading, and need not be ironed
The patterns are in oriental effects In
numerous figured and floral designs. ana
there seems to be no end to the color
combinations Beautiful in every way
are bedroom curtains of bobbinet, with
appliaued lilac borders cut from white
and liiac-colored' cretonne. and stitched
to the, net, producing an effect that IS
very rich and dainty. Scrdm curtains
in a deep cream color would be pretty
stenciled with border In a rose design.
or trimmed with an insertion OF net ap-
pliqued in cretonne. Madras IN pretty
designs is excellent material for curtains
as It launders we'll and requires no
starching.
II YOU have some old linen sheets you
may use them for curtains without cut
ting. Cut some circles the size OF a
silver dollar from colored linen and ap-
pliuue at intervals Of about six inches
apart all over the sheets, either single,
two interlaced or three put together. Ap-
plique with any stitch that you choose.
or you can join the design to the linen
with coiored cotton soutache braid. This
may be done on the sewing machine with
the use of a braider. Yellow linen CDR
cles appliqled on white curtains. and out
lined with white and a color tint, produce
a beautiful effect.
"A far greater number of people see our
homes from the outside than are ever
likely to enter them. which Is an argu-
nient in favor of having two sets Of cur
tafns, the sheer white curtain against the
glass giving merely a glimpse Of the
S.s~ n~i~ 80 - r1fl 1vH hA To-
terror.
When running rods through curtains
cut finger from an old kid glove and
place over the end of the rod. It will
so through like magic. Cheesecloth,
Scrim or yellowish lace curtains will re-
tain their creamy hue after washing II
a small amount of saffron tea u put into
the rinsing water. =
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
in combining 1t, have created wonderful
gowns in all white and in all black.


y
The combination of black and white is
no more. This is not blow to your
black suit with white shirt waist. be-
cause such combinations must be. but 1t
does point to the fact that the better
choice when one wears black Is to make
It all black, and the same holds true of
white. Some of the loveliest Of the new
gowns are all white. Cabot has made
one to which she has given the name Of
apple blossom. 1t is swirl OF white
with exquisite lines Of drapery. all in
chiffon with a single garniture on the
skirt Of silken apple blossoms.
Drecoll has some remarkable all white
gowns of chiffon and lace which are
trimmed with narrow ribbons of seed
pearls. With these two illustrious exam
pies leading the way any woman may
feel herself quite in the fashion by adopt
ing as much all white as she wishes to
wear.
Coat suits of white poplin or faille may
be made in strictly mannish way with
narrow skirt holding straps of white
braid down the side terminating in fancy
scrolls at the knees, and square or cut
away coats with Powered waistcoats of
tons.
For the woman who does not care to
invest in a white suit, which is easily
soiled by contact with the city streets,
there is the all-black suit as fashiona-
BILE and economical choice. The new ones
are made of any Of the silks which are
watered or corded; they show waist
coat in the coat which fastens to the
bust and has revers of black hemstitched
chiffon; above. there shows shirt waist
Of tucked white net with a high collar
held in with wide ribbon.
There Is a strong inclination on the
part Of most women to wear colored hats
with black suits, and the milliners aid
and abet this because they are conscious
of the commercial value Of selling hat
that is not white or black. The latter
can be worn with any costume: the col
ored one has its service limited. There
fore, so many more hats.
And yet despite the leading fashion for
colored hats 1t Is not difficult to observe
the inclination on the part of many WON
en- to go In for the all-black hat or black
with fine spray of white floating over
or from the crown. This is all very well
for the spring; a jaunty little black hat
Is very clever in its effects during the
mild weather, but when the sun begins to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
VIE east is everywhere today! We
owe our styles In dress to it: it is

VIE east is everywhere today! We
owe our styles In dress to it: it is
reflected in our house furnishings:
our favorite colors proclaim its beauty
on every side. But all this is a modern
growth. On our own table we have been
serving food for years that shows that
the influence Of the east on the west is
as old as civilization itself.
Peaches. rhubarb. spinach, lettuce, cur
rants-the dried ones in drop cakes and
gar and many other everyday foods first
came from the orient. The names of
some OF them suggest their origin
Peaches. for instance, were brought into
Greece from Persia. where they were
originally introduced from China, and
the Greek word for Persia gradually de-
veloped into our word for peach.
Dried currants came to Europe orig
inally from the Levant. which was indi-
Gated by the general name Corinth, and
SO curtains were called raisins of Corinth,
or corinths. and finally currants.
Tea, 1t is said, was called tay in Annoy,
in the southern part of China, whence We
first got it, and it was as tay that the
word was first pronounced in England.
Sage Is Malayan word. and the food
was first introduced into Europe from
the Malayan archipelago. Spinach. first
brought from Asia to Europe, gives no
suggestion of its birthplace in its name.
Spinach was named from the spines
which marked its earliest varieties. Let
tuce, too. although from the East Indies,
has a Latin name indicating milkiness,
from lac, milk.
Rhubarb-the harmless garden plant
has a most ferocious name from the same
source as barbarian. Rhubarb came from
Chinese Tartary, and so, Of course, was
considered a barbarouS or foreign food.
The radish, first from Asia, was named
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

untutored women whose semi-savage IN
stinct for color can at last be gratified
in the name Of the latest fashion. There
will be so much ONT that Is crude and
good taste will hesitate before using It
and she will involuntarily turn to sober
colors as q relief to her mind and as q
contrast to the crowds.
yellow are. but 1t is difficult color to
wear, and one must choose It more care
fully than any other color except green
and red. 1t brings out all the sallow-
ness that lies latent in the American
skin and Of which one Is not aware I'M
til tan or brown is put near the face. It
also 'deadens the tone Of the hair, unless
1t il red or black.
The consequences OF brown can be OBJ
waited by putting lace from bust to chin,
but the trouble is that ecru and tan lace
are desirable with brown. and they are
thoroughly unbecom1ng to the majority
Of skins. Dead white lace does not go
well with brown, and SO women will
have a difficult time choosing any Of
these fashionable tones OF one color sim
ply because they make one look older
and bring out all that contributes to bag
gardness in the face
y
y \
Navy blue is admirable. AZ said be-
fore, and it is fashionable. There are
u
waist will be withdrawn from fashion
but the women decide otherwise. or -.-e
manufacturers do. because both bob up
serenely as soon as every new season
opens. Navy blue coat suits OF watered
poplin and MORE bengaliLe are far more
fashionable than those Of lightweight
serge or satin In truth the latter fab
ric, while fashionable, is reserved for
hxyt I,o fv ~
makers because of the suppleness and
novelty of the new silks.
| There are also many dark blues In all
the crepon fabrics, such as matelasse and
damasse. All Of these are trimmed with
white when one wishes to be conserva-
tive, or they may have touches OF red or
Balkan blue or purple as a contrast
| The Paris designers, although they have
| been carried off their feet by their enthu-
siasm for color and their marvellous art
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
Hats Like Houses.

DD it ever occur to you that headgear
- takes on the form OF houses? 1t is
hard to account for some of the weird
hats Of the day by this theory. although
perhaps an effort to cary out the lines OF
the skyscraper may be traceH In the
beanstalk decorations of feathers and
flowers which tower skyward from our
hats.
However hard to prove. this is theory
put forward by an authority on woman s
dress. To understand its claim to con-
sideration call up a picture of a me-
dieval woman with a tall funneleshaped
headdress-the henin. Isn't 1t for Jail the
world like the spire Of Gothic church?
And doesn't 1t also suggest the\ peak
tent where her crusading or warrio4 hus-
band or brother or father spent mulch OF
his time?
Take the eastern turban for another ex-
ample. It Is almost like the domet Of
some mosque synagogue In outline\
Another eastern example Is the Chinese
coolie When he Is wearing his rainy daE
straw hat he looks as IL ne had veritably\
donned the roof Of his own straw
matched hut
Dome and pagoda parasois, which prep
erly may be classed as head coverfngnI
are evidently not alone in borrowing their
Outline from buildings,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
Shopping the World Over

IN the old days the romance Of mer-
chandise thrust itself on every one.
Spice trains from the east caravans
bringing silk from China, slow-sailing
vessels laden with the produce of The
tropics. trappers and hunters with their
store Of furs from the north. every one
saw and wondered at these strange trav-
elers. But today. with fast steamers and
trains running all over the world. we
take the wonders OF other lands as a
rsatter Of course and in every shopping
tour look a: tho merchandise Of India.
of Africa, OF Alaska and OF Russia with
out feeling OF wonder.
From Japan come comfortable dress
Ing gowns for men. They are made OF
habutai silk In black. red, purple. green,
brown and blue. quilted on cotton under
lining and lined with silk
Fruit pulp In glass bottles for use in
kcses creams and desserts Of all kinds
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

comes from the Tyrol. It is canned with
out sugar and is q boon to the cook.
Hand-drawn filet-worked dresses for
children come from Porto Rico. The
dresses are made of linen. with tucks
on the skirt. A band about the skirt and
the yoke Is made Of f1let work.
From Austria red and black raspberries
Of sugar come. They are put up in glass
bottles with screw tops. They look like
fresh berries and are delicious.
An interesting wall candlestick from
Russia is made of brass. There Is a re-
Hector behind the candlestick which is
protected in front by a low pierced brass
railing. The candle can be unlocked
from the wall. as there is a substantial
base which enables 1t to stand safely on
q fat surface
Bohemian preserved" violets are natu-
rally scented and colored and form a
beautiful corsage bouquet The violets
are sold In an attractive box.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

beat down in red hot rays one wants to
put black in mothballs for two months
The color is hot in reality and in effect,
no matter how thin or transparent 1t may
be. It is amazing how well this lesson
has been learned during the last two
years because of the great tide Of tour
lists to the Panama canal. 1 still have the
memory of the heating impression made
by the women who wore black chiffon
and silk muslin and pongee down In
Havana, Jamaica and Panama. Tney
looked with envy and disbursement on
the women who knew better and mao
tasted the tropics before and had brOuSnt
only white clothes.
When the fashion for accordion-pleated
gowns first came into being somewhere
around January many of us felt that the
idea would be run to the ground ana
become too popular to be desirable. 1t
was used in the cheap kinds of ready
made garments, and this did not argue
well for its life; but it has recently been
taken up by conservative houses and
worn by exceedingly well dressed women,
and therefore it must be reckoned with
as among the leading fashions.
X X
There IS an admirable model in all
black which has three-tiered skirt built
from graded lengths of accordion pleat
ing: the upper tier stands out over the
hips like the new tunic and is longer on
one side than on the other. The bodice
is pleated in one piece from shoulder
to waist, and the sleeves are put into
long armholes to give the appearance Of
being cut in one with the bodice; they
taper at the wrist until they are tight
fitting The neck is V shaped and out
lined with high outstanding ruff1e made
Of double white net. which is the every
day substitute for the wide EliZabethan
collar of lace.
There is a simpler model in accordion
pleated navy blue summer serge which Is
easily followed in thin silk. more appro-
pirate to our climate. The pleating be-
gins from the hip yoke made of folded
blue satin imitation Of Turkish SASH At
the side there is knot with two short
steamers of satin to further the effect.
The bodice is pleated lengthwise and
Says considerably at back and sides over
the top Of the skirt-a fashion, by the
way, which is quite marked today and
which promises complete revolution
from the blouse that is pulled down at
the waistlne. There is also a V-shaped
opening here and a high back. of course.
which is made higher by Beau Brum-
mel collar Of blue satin lined with white
satin, on which are printed tiny bouquets
of flowers. The three-quarter sleeves are
finished with turnover cuff OF blue
satin.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
NEW TOUCHES FOR OUR CLOTHES

and purple Is used to relieve the aIl-DiacK'
evening gown. 800.
Spun glass aigrettes for. the hair.
mounted on bands OF rninestones. arc
among the most attractive OF the less ex-
pensive hair ornaments. These atgreftes
are made In several light shades OF green,
mauve, pink and yellow.
Colored wells are many. Some shew
fine black mesh with big colored che
mile dots-red, yellow. green and blue
arranged in a border decoration. Others
Of heavy white mesh. have colored
threads woven through the mesh to form
lacy designs Of blue and red and yellow.
Others are made In solid colors-purpae,
red. blue and green.
Many Of the new automobile hats have
a colored chiffon veil Of light fine tex
ture fastened securely to tho hat by
folded silk The veil which covers the
face crosses at the back OF the head and
ties again under the chin.
Colored handkerchiefs are increasingly
popular. They are made in pink. yellow,
Perhaps the lavender handkerchief can
be used to supply the purple touch es-
sential to the completion of the mustard
colored frock. -.
Lingerie hats of embroidered linen
some Of them made by hand at home
bring back the days when these hand
embroidered lingerie hats first came: in.
several years ago. Today they .are made
to look more like big breakfast caps,
most Of them. To be sure. they have a
brim, but it Is narrow and scant. They
are trimmed with ribbon and flowers and
are often faced with lace. -
Pretty new collars Of lace and enobroid-
cry are made to lie fiat about the Shout
ders. From each side Of the collar comes
a folded JabOt OF lace and net. The col
lar does not meet. and so, of course.
neither do the two jabots, but one falls
on each side of the front closing OF the
blouse with which it is worn. 49,.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

back is extended, like some of the new
sailor collars. to fasten under the girdle
or belt. The boleros are made Of white
Of black crepe de, chine embroidered all
about the edge with Bulgarian colors.
Purple has gone out ,of fashion. 1t Is
said. The windows full OF purple aces
SORES seem to belle this statement. But
purple has gone out of fashion only for
gowns. Nothing is more in fashion than
purple accessories. Handbags, corsage
bouquets, touches Of the royal color on
neckwear. purple girdles and belts and
any other purple trifie is in favor. A
mustard-color gown Is not considered
complete without violet girdle or belt:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

This model is good for a lightweight
spring silk or such material as eponse.
The applied front portion Of the blouse
is slashed to admit apparently the ends
Of the lace which fall in scant ruffies
and may appear to be continuation of
the lace collar.
This brock would be charming de-
veloped in natural color pongee OF shan
tung with the tiny little bows which
decorate blouse and sleeve made Of gol-
den brown satin and the lace of collar
and sleeve frill to be rich ecru. Worn
with this was natural co,ored straw
hat with crown of yellow roses and.
iaunty bow of brown velvet.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
When the Pets Travel.

COMFORTABLE travelling quarters are
- now provided for the pet dog or cat
In the shape of satchels made of straw.
The bags are provided with two ventil-
ators near the top at each end. The low
er part of one end Is made Of wire net
ting. with leather flap to cover 1t over
when the conductor ap-
pears.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

"7HITE Kid accessories are much
NJ used White kid shoes. OF course,
are popular for wear with lingerie
frocks. White kid handbags are also
popular They are made with nickel and
brass clasps and with six strap handles.
White kid belts. piped on each side with
color and with a colored enameled buckle.
ar to be worn with white frocks. too.
Embroidered crepe de chine boleros are
attractive and give an up-tO-date look to
An old chiffon or lace blouse The bolero
Jackets are made without sleeves. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13
Short Cuts for Hows@k@@pers

and the room. The question of, how to
hang them may resolve itself into this:
How. in a moderate-siZed room, so to ar
range certain number Of pictures that,
individually. each will be placed in a good
light and. collectively, they will contrib
ute to the decorative effect OF the room.
One solution will be to observe how much
of the wall space is sufficiently lighted
that alone is available for pictures.
Not the idea or the subject portrayed
should determine its place on the wall,
but rather its appropriate size and pro-
portions, its color and lines. In no room
should there be a picture which approaches
the color or tone of the wall coloring
behind it. Each one should stand out
in strong contrast from its background.
The height of a picture from the floor
should be considered. Each picture should
usually be very nearly centered on the
normal line of sight. about five feet from
the floor The blunder of hanging pic
lures too high is as common as that or
hanging them too low is rare 1t you
hesitate between two levels, decide upon
the lower. When they are hung on the
line Of vision a tilted posture is unneces-
sary. They should hang perfectly nat
against the wall. With the usual ar
rangement of screw-eyes picture can
not hang fiat against the wall. so have
them put on the top edge of the frame. in
plain sight, where they will hold the
picture fiat. They should be dull black
for dark wood frames brass for gilt
frames. and should range in size accord
ing to the size Of the frame they are
to uphold.
A small room may be made to appear
larger by selecting such pictures for the
walls as have depth and space. Views
of far-distant hills. broad expanses Of
ocean or plains, nd deep Interiors open
out vistaS beyond the cramped Nmita-
lions of four walls.
A number Of small pictures all framed
alike should be hung by festooning them
on a pretty cord. This will give the ef-
feet of one picture. Tiny pictures OF diff
ferent shapes should be grouped and hung
from small brass rod similar to an ex-
tension curtain rod.
To fasten unframed pictures on the wall
SO that the wind cannot tear them looS,
take a narrow ribbon and some brass
tacks and, beginning at one corner. fasten
a tack through the ribbon and the picture,
then stretch the ribbon to the next cor
ner Of the picture. then another tack,
and so on clear around the picture. Use
ribbon to harmonic with the color in
your picture and the effect Will be very
pretty.
The best class Of post cards make most
desirable pictures. They may be pasted
on a mat of plain. dark paper and
framed, or passepartouted.
Pictures of considerable size and weight
may be easily hung by the aid OF an or
binary gas lighter. This device Will ft
under the picture hook nicely, and by
steadying with one hand the picture
is easily put in place lea
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

SylI6DuO.
When people on the surface ask II a
certain class of fabrics will continue or
certain colors will remain in fashion they
do not realize that these things must re-
main for time until they have paid
for the experiment of introducing them.
The mills of the world put out their fab
RIGS for months in advance of the fash
IONS and they flood the markets with
their produce; they cannot mechanically
withdraw a fabric over night and subst1-
tute it by another one.
SALE although the merchants are canny
enough to keep the fabrics Of last sea-
son mixed In with the fabrics OF this sea-
son in order that many buyers with many
minds shall have a chance to suit their
tastes. 1t took the rough fabrics two
years to gain an abiding place among
the people, simply because the looms and
mills had already turned out quantities
of smooth cloths; they We're not fore
sighted enough or wouldn't gamble on a
chance. although they knew that Paris
was using the rough fabrics for its new
clothes. and they had centuries Of ex-
perience behind them to prove that Paris
always wins out In this matter.
The American dealers put up stiff
fight against rough and printed fabrics.
simply because they were overstocked
with broadcloths and other smooth lab
RIGS: they protested in print against the
fashion for rough and figured fabrics and
waved the American eagle In the air
quite q good DEAL anent the assertion
that America should have its own laws
and American women abide by them.
This fight which cost money, resulted
In the disposal in the small towns and
In certain sections of the large cities or
quantities of broadcloth, but the final
result was inevitable and the looms had
to be adjusted to rough weaves.
Now that they have been adjusted, we
shall probably wear this kind Of cloth
In various expressions for some time to
come.
What Is true Of clothes is mostly true
of colors The same game Is repeated.
Artist designers in Paris introduced some
wonderful examples of dyeing; the dress
makers eagerly snatched them up be-
cause they are thoroughly weary OF the
monotony in color which had extended
over ten years. and the new gowns were
made of them for the opening Of the sea-
son. And the shops follow suit in dis
playing mustard, unripe i~.non, Egyp--
tan red. Turkish purple. Balkan blue and
empire green.
These are the successors of black and
white of pale blue and pink, of turquoise
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-13

No evening costume is too simple to be
completed by a turban made from folds
of metal hrocade Or sauze and trimmed
With e led ornari,ar'ts and para dise.