The sun., 1913-11-30

| full thrift which keeps them from real
poverty. They have enough to eat ana
to wear and for an occasional bit of
pleasure. what more, their good hu-
mored faces seem to ask. could they
| want?
| Only the very wealthy Viennese can
afford a house to himself. The great
majority Of people rent "a story. or
half story, Of the huge residence build
| ings that give the city it's mOnOtOnOusly
| gloomy look. Row after row of these
line the streets, all the same height
and the same style: but in no
way do they resemble the typical
apartments" Of England. America
or France.
| The people unconsciously admit this
lack of home attraction by their inces-
SAINT attendance at Cafee. While the
| Frenchman or the Spaniard spends an
hour a day In his favorite cafe chatting
| with friends. the Niennese spends an
entire morning. afternoon or evening, or
| all three. Coffee or chocolate with
whipped cream Uhe famous Wiener me-
lange) is the usual drink with which ne
pays for his seat and the illustrate ted
papers that are his ohsession. He or
madame his friend will remain in a
| comfortable corner of the window hour
by hour, reading and smoking. smoking
and reading. only looking up to sip
| chocolate or to stare at some newcomer.
The cafe, also the constant cigarette
| smoking, is as much a habit with the
| women Of Vienna as with the men. And
| one is not surprised to hear that there
are over 600 Of these Literally "coffee
houses in the city and that all of them
are continually full.
Here. as everywhere in Vienna, one is
| impressed with the good looks and az
tractiven"Sr Of the people in general.
In their careful grooming and prevailing
air Of prosperity they bear a dstinc:
resemblance to Americans. and one may
go deeper under the surface and find "a
reason for this in the highly complex
mixture of race in both nations There
is the same tall rather aggressive build
among the men: the same piquant fea-
lures bright hair and pretty colorinG
among the women of the two countries.
And to go further there is the same
| supreme fondness for dress and outward
show that results in reckless eXtrava-
| gance.
| After the vastness and confusion Of
Waterloo and St. Lazare. one arrives
IN Madrid at little station suggestive
| Of sleepy provincial town. Porters
are few and far between and one gen.
orally carries ones own bags to the
primitive horse cabs waiting outside
I TaNis are almost unheard Of, and the
few that are seen demand prices as
fabulous as those of New York. Every
Madrileno who can possibly afford it has
a carriage, but the rank and file use the
funny little trans. which ! must say.
however. are eXcellently conducted and
most convenient
Both the trans and all streets and
avenues are plainly marked with large
clear signs and the pleasant compact
ness of the city makes it easy to find
ones way about. The centre Of life
and activity is the Puerto del Sol-Gate
Of the Sun-an oval plaza which Span
iards fondly describe as the busiest
square in the world" There is no doubt
at all that it is the noisiest; with its
changing trans, rafting carriages,
| shouting street vendors and ambulant
| musicians.
one thing heggars can choose with
prohciency-thcir language. In Madrid
| they would he less disgusting were it
| not for their loathsome diseases and de-
| formitics. The Government is far too
/ l""i W tntfll Ill aSNlnfnS, so tntN
continue to possess the streets and the
already overcrowded Gate Of the Sun,
Good afternoon. gentleman. The
gentleman Is surely the most handsome
the most kind hearted the best dressed
and most polite of all the world II
the gentleman could part with peseta
nine pencc-to "A brother in deepest
woe, God would reward him. God would
give him still more elegant health and
more ravishing children. II he has no
children, God would certainly send him
some--for only half a pescta, oh, gra-
tious gentleman. To brother whose
affections could not be recited from now
till the end of the world SO multiple,
so heartrending are they. am an old
man of 20, oh, most beautiful gentle
man--old as the gentleman's ilustrious
father, may Mary and the angels grant
him long life! Only twenty centimos,
my gentleman-God will give you n
million. Ten Centimos--fve! .
Caramba! curse on your hidcous face
and Looping gait. There is no uglier toad
this side Of hell"
Spaniards are firmly convinced that
the Castellana Is finer than the Champs
Elysees; but 1t is, In reality, a rather
stupid avenue, broad and with plenty
Of trees In pots Of water, yet quite fiat
and lacking the quaint guignols and
smart restaurants that give color to the
French promenade. Galician nursemai ids
} with their enormous earrings. congre-
J gate around the Ice cream booths. while
: their Overdressed charges play bull
fight" or 'circus'' In the alleys near by.