davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09
Not Too Late

a NDRE DE FOUQUIERES, the Paris
"A ian cotillon leader attired i'm fault
less English clothes, discussed divorce at
one of his conferences in New York.
America. / believe said nj. de Fou-
auires. Us leaving France far behind in
the matter of divorce. Certainly one finds
more Divorces i'm New York society than
in Partisan society.
"A friend of mine tells me-but 1 hope
he is wrong-that the American divorce il
frequently a mercenary divorce. A young
woman who has married for love divorces
her husband because she finds she can
make a more brilliant marriage.
M. de Fouquieres frowned and them
smiling, continued:
perhaps this is true. though. In
France our marriages are all, so to speak.
mercenary marriages, and therefore We
have. little use for mercenary divorce. a
conversation / heard between two New
York debutantes could not have occur
rod in Paris. where girls marry the very
best parti possible.
She refused him because she thought
she could do better said the first deip1-
tante sympatheticaily.
How strange exclaimed the second,
Most girls don't s9em to think Of that
until after the wedding"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

''Ambergris today costs $1,000 the
kilo. Very excellent qualities run as
high as $1,000. but it can be bought
down as low as $500. When per-
fumer tries to sell cheap to the pub
lie. imagine what he must use.''
Also. there are purely chemical prod
ucts very beautifully reproducing am
bergris. SO cheap that it would make
YOU smile. Undoubtedly, chemical per-
TUNES are very much in evidence in
Paris. Certain ones may even seem TO
be 1T the note of the day" and very
modern and certain houses have not
hesitated to launch very novel and de-
hcfous combinations. resembling moth
ing in nature. very expensive Very
penetrating. headiiy attractive as hign
as So. and even IS. the small bottle of
about 40 sra rllnes liquid contents: but
lasting satisfaction is found nearer to
nature. says the elder Guerlain.
Now and then--though it is not usual
you may get an unpleasant surprise
from chemical perfumes The handker-
chief that has been scented with one
such and becomes dry. not in the air,
but in tight and warm pocket, if
brought suddenly to the nose may give
you blast, almost an odor explosion.
ii l may use such a compa rison: any
thing but sweet, and almost like a
disagreeabie gas; then. suddenly, the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

this building During the administration
of Secretary .MacVeagh the protection
features have received careful considera-
ton.
1t was found that the Notwithstanding
activities in the Offices of the treasurer
Of the United States. the controller of
the currency. the registers Office and the
division of loans and currency were
widely scattered. and it was a common
thing to see messengers and departmental
laborers hauling through the open cor
ridors of the building large sums of
money. This was necessary because there
was no protection or seclusion under the
arrangements then existing. An effort
was made to group all Of these activities
in order that the handling of the money
in the open might be obviated. Such a
grouping was made and restrictions
placed on corridors and parts of the
building where the work Of handling
money is carried on.
The restrictions consisted of strong.
substantial grills. placed across the cor
ridors, completely excluding the public
from this class of work. The openings
in these grills are closely guarded by
trusted watchmen at all times, and no
one, except employees, are allowed tn en-
ter the restricted corridors. In addition
to this wise precaution. a money lift
completely concealed from the public
gaze. was installed. This is used in
conveying money and securities from the
floor of the building where 1t is counted,
assorted and arranged to the subbase-
ment. where the shipping activities are
carried on. So carefully is the movement
of money guarded and protected that
many Of the oldest employees i'm the
Treasury know nothing whatever of the
system employed or the route the money
takes in coming into and being dispatch
ed from the, building.
Formerly. it was customary for the
guides in conducting public visitors
through tn1 building to head them around
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09
Too Proud

Mrs. TAFT is an accomplished I'm
Iva guist At tea in Washington she
said:
They who know no languages what
ever are not ashamed of their Ignorance.
But none are so sensitive. when abroad,
as they who have taken six or seven
lessons in French or German or Italian.
"A gentleman in the Place Nendome IN
Paris took pity on two ladies VINO were
having a perfectly hopeless time with y
cab driver. and after observing the TRIO
inability to comprehend one another, the
gentleman advanced and said politely;
Pardon me, ladies. but perhaps | can
be of some use here. speak french
The two ladies .frowned. and one OF
them answered haughtily
So do we, sir
".Oh, excuse me- said the gentleman
and with an amused smile he turned io'
go.
las he retreated. the -cabby shouted
angrily after him from the box:
Me spik Angleesh,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

over to the express company for distri-
button among the banks and financial
institutions in all parts of the country.
The system of protection and handling
OF money in the Urea surY Department
is as perfect as a mans ingenuity can
devise. Not only every vault but every
grill door and every entrance to the
building is controlled by an electric
protective system. the headquarters OF
which are located in the Office of the cap
tain of The watch. The electric board,
SO far as known. is the only one OF its
exact Kind in existence. 1t was built
and designed for the Treasury building.
Not a movement takes place in con-
nection with the opening and closing
of the svaults and doors of the building
that is not recorded. and the system is
SO delicate and refined that II there is
an unusual change in temperature. and
especially il there is more than 'ordi-
nary dampness. it will record on this
board. ss s.
At o'clock in the afternoon the grill
doors to all the openings except one.
ere closed and the electric protection
placed thereon The Same protection Is
given to tho doors of the huiiding as Is
placed on the vaults. so that 1t IS I'M
possible for any door to he open so long
rs the protection remains without q
definite alarm being turned In. So dell
cate is the system that the. greatest
care has to be exercised in opening and
closing the vaults in order ito prevent
the occurrence OF alarms. When an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

from Guerlain and quite some from Coty,
the youngest maker. I will not call them
manufacturers they are poets and
painters in scents. The employees of Coty
fumer of Paris and the employees of
Gueriain call Houbigant "the oldest per-
fumery house of Paris.
=
Coty is new house. very active. with
a purple lilac for example. at $40 the
smallest bottle. which seems to me the
best lilac i'm Paris 1t is true that lilac
is unextractable from the flower and is a
synthetic product Nevertheless. the pur-
pie is fresh and it does not alter. The
most popular Coty success has been his
ORGAN" in which dominates. miracu-
lousy refined our old liniment or plaster
friend, origanum, a sort of wild mar
joram, but dressed up with discreet half
tone scents, until you have an extremely
penetrating, sweet and troubling perfume.
very taking. very tempting, but not, per-
haps. of the utterly distinguished good
taste which is the final word of great
perfume.
American women visit the Houbigant
establishment in the Faubourg st. Honore
lust below the British embassy, for the
historic associations. In front OF an old
fashioned mirror which gives "a rather
blue reflection, is a white marble bust of
Marie AntOinette. Do not despise the
mirror, 1T reflected MaT1e-Antoinette's
real self The entire Houbigant building
has never changed since her time. They
were the court perfumers. Their series
of "quintessences," popular in 1775-Tri-
anon, Frangipane, Four Flowers, Marie
Antoinette-have been manufactured and
sold by the house ever since. 1t is true
they seem little weak to us nowadays.
but discreet. gentle. oId-fashioned. In
the retail salesrooms the very chairs are
the identical ones of ITS. The walls and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09


ceiling are the same, the chandelier. the
counters, the showcases, the woodwork
and the marquetry floor; nothing is
changed at Houbigant's since the days OF
Marie acknowledgements the perfumes,
which would make the lovely queen open
her eyes.
In a severe Louis XVI parlor upstairs.
lined with glass cases, the commission
dealers come with their orders and visit
ing retailers from all parts OF the world
The glass cases contain one sample bottle
only Of each size and style for each prod
uct One perfume has an entire case Of
its own for it's various essences, toilet wa
tiers, powders, etc. The Houbigant rose
is considered to have succeeded enormous
ly These expensive perfumes range from
81 to $4.40 and $3.50 the smallest bottle
All these smallest bottles mentioned in
the article are about the same size hold
ing from 20 grammes to trifle less.
1t Is a pity. also, that / have only
space to name other admirable Paris per-
tuners.
But where is the princess all this time
we have been Cabling? The lovely linda
is probably at Guerlain's. on the corner
of the Rue de la Paix. These perfume
stricken ladies' when they are perfect
and can't put any more on, like to go and
talk perfumes with high priest like the
elegant and distinguished Gabriel Guer-
lain. with his white beard, proprietor of
the famous hurdle-racfng stallion Hop
per. who, he says, earned him $4,000
last year.
linda was chatting with the master
about Chemical doors The perfume
princess knows perfectly that there Is
practically no natural violet, and
that the most delicious product re-
quires mixture of aniline tcoal tar),
violet and the violet drawn from what
she said was iris
Violet. the old true violet said
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

the elder Guerlain. costs $4,000 the
liilo-2-2 pounds-for perfumer's con-
central ted essence. German has made
a marvellous invention in discovering
ionOne in the essence India verbena.
The princess asked NJ. jacques Guer-
lain, one of the two sons. IL it were
possible for him to be deceived by the
raw material merchants.
We buy flower essence from Grasse
and Bulgaria. said NJ Jacques. Tn
doubtedly there is some little manipt-
lation- I'm convinced that no Bull
garian has ever brought to Paris the
tiniest phial of perfectly pure rose
essence. but there is limit to their
little tricks"
He mentioned the various tests by
which the perfumers protect them
selves. polarization of light. evapora-
ton test and, above all. the trained
nese. A pure and simple coal tar per-
fume could not be foisted on first
class Paris perfumer as real flower
essence.
"Just as violet is obtained from an
other flower" continued Gabriel Guer-
lain. $50 it is possible to extract
geranol from geranium, and with
geranol to made rose. And. remember.
the old essence of. rose costs $500 the
kilogram! This is not chemistry In
the same sense. but pure. legitimate
physics-the odor is drawn. not from
the flower, but from a flower. Lilac
on the other hand. has never been OBJ
tanned either from the, flower or from
"a flower" he continued. I'VE do not
admit 1t. 1t is made from terpinol-a
chemical drawn from petroleum
Whenever we have made perfume
drawn from chemicals pure and simple
we have done it to our detriment, and
+ against our will.
Yet the cost of the best raw material
continually rises.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

ners in persoa-so carefully do they
guard the secrets of the family. The
Houblgants. Lubins and Pinauds have,
equally their old rule-of-thumb recipes
and secrets based on experience. not
noted in any book.
The true perfume. creator is very
personal artistic. To launch three new
ones a year, he combines and rejects
fifty. And, note YOU the rejected ones
are delicious also. / have seen Pierre
GuerIain at it. What would you think
of a landscape painter destroying fifty
canvases? Sage, experienced Gabriel.
the father. is the art critic. the smeiler.
He carries a fiimy handkerchief in his
breast pocket-one only, at time. Now
and then he lifts it swiftly to his nose
to obtain the Surprise" So, too, w.t.
ness City, new conner. generally con-
sidered to have the sacred fire. In the
Chateau de Longchamps. where Chau-
cnard formerly lorded it, to my personal
knowledge. Coty has Transformed one OF
the magnificent pariors into Workshop
where pine tables are Uttered with a
Thousand test tubes. Here the proprle-
tor of the chateau works at night.
1t is the boast of Gabriel Guerlain that
he can create any perfume suggested
personal" odors is one of the heights
of the perfume craze.
but don't touch it, says the perfume
princess 1.-The true perfume lover is
not content with any one or fve or ten.
She has her favorites. but she is always
seeking That is why l am SO much
with Gabriel. But the personal per
fune is the mark of the merely. vain
woman Many attempt it. cheaply, by
mixing. They make messes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09


CHANGES Made in Sys-
tenn During Secretary
McVeagh's Term of Office
Grilled Partitions Inside the
Treasury Building Larger
and Stronger Than in Any
Penal Institution ID oors
That Are Closely Guarded
at All Times-System Is as
Perfect as a Mans Ingenuity
Can Devise-Every Entrance
to the Building Controlled by
the Electric Protective Sys-
tenn.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

where they could look in on the money
in the various stages of Its handing
and dispatch. This has been entirely
changed. At no stage of the proceedings
is any one except the employees actually
engaged in the operations allowed to
come In or even see the handling OF TINS
money. No outsider could possibly gain
admittance to any of the divisions in any
The grilled partitions inside the build-
ing are larger and stronger than in any
jail or other house of detention. At the
time the doors were being placed to all
the outside entrances on the two lower
floors 1t was commended by people of ar
tistic tastes that the grills were too large
and strong. Secretary Macyeagh ems
ployed firm of New York architects to
install this work and this firm insisted
that the massive proportions of the build
ing required the installation of grils OF
heavy proportions. Some idea of these
massive doors can be obtained from the
fact that each bar is one and one-half
inches in diameter, and the doors are as
solid as the stone walls themselves.
The massive door in the west court of
the subbasement. which is far below the
street level and completely obscured and
protected. is always locked and an armed
Waterman is stationed Immediately on the
inside of this door. The only people who
are permitted to enter this door are the
guards and attendants of the van which
conveys moneys and securities from the
bureau of engraving and printing to the
Treasury and the uniformed employees of
the express company which has the con-
tract for shipping money from the de-
partment.
Under no circumstances could an out
slider gain admittance to this door. The
guard on the inside door knows person
ally the few who are permitted to come
into the building through this door. There
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

NJ. GABRIEL GUERLAIN,
Present head Of the firm who were the
court perfumers under the empire of
Napoleon III and Eugene, and called
today ''thc premier perfumcrs of
paris.''
handkerchief is sweet again. or nearly
so. The cheaper ones are very sweet
when wet, but when dry they are no
more. Yet to be lasting is the great
est quality of a great perfume; and it
ought to be both better and different
when dry.
/ know that the Guerlain sons-and I
hear it of Coty and Lubin. also-spend
whole afternoons personally taking the
musk from the pouches. handling the
raw ambergris and santal wood. in
speeding strips of Spanish leather ana ar
rivals of exotic aromatics. Guerlain' s
'tSillage.'' a lasting perfume of the three
dollar series, has for base an oriental
wood. growing In certain limited dis
trict discovered by the grandfather. M.
Guerlain pere has frequently been heard
to say that when the wood OF that little
district is used up there will be no more
"Sillage.
At present. jacques Guerlain personally
directs the works outside Paris. Soon it
will be his brother Pierre. Every two
years a change is made; because the
work is strain. All the actual perfume
compromising is done by one of the part
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

robber. burglar. crook or set OF CROOKS.
however skiIiful to break in and carry
off a single dollar Of the nations money.
Although the Treasury is considered by
leading architects to be the most graceful
and attractive from an artistic stand
point Of all buildings belonging to the
government until comparatively recent
period no definite steps had been taken
10 modernize the system of protection OF
all the vast millions of money stored in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

We stood in the famous shop of the
Rue de la Paix Here chatted Edward
VII. as Prince of Wales. The private
offices have welcomed queens. princesses
grand dukes and archduAes.
Mere names Of perfumes give. no
idea said linda Brozia.. You must
smell them. As many makers so there
are as many 'chypres.' There is no such
perfume though Walter Scott mentions
it. and Houbigant had cypris' in ITO
Guerlain has 'cyprisine' and 'chypre
de Paris The original 'Chypre' was
very successful mixture of Atkinson,
years ago; and as he did not protect the
name, everybody took it up. Now Guer-
lain .Chypre de Paris, although of the
cheap S1.20 series. is a sum total of per-
fume value. distinction and lasting quail
tiles | imagine it would be impossible
to repeat. heinz
The elder Guerlain mentioned Jockey.
which seems to be composed OF spices
and odorous woods; but they say that it
is full of flowers Its fame has gone
round the world, like Houbigant $
Ideal" which is dearer. 1--WE tunbied
on it's composition by accident. sald
Gabriel Guerlain. We have never been
able 10 repeat it. The materials are not
expensive so the public gets the bene-
fit. .
..One must know what one likes. said
the perfume princess. Take musSed
perfumes. so dangerous to keep rehned,
not based on musk, but merely musk-ed
If YOU don't like them, don't buy Bon
Vieux Temps or 'Ai-loe. which a gem
tfeman of my acquaintance adores.
like all kinds" continued the fair linda,
but if / had to make a choice. I'd take
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09
Literary Barom@e's Whereabouts a Mystery

for a passport. But his record, from the
official point of view. was not good
one: views like the baronets seldom
smooth the. way TO passports. so the
permit was refused. the post card about
the shells was sent and the eccentric
nobleman disappears from view His Lon
don publishers have heard nothing from
him. and neither have his two adopted
sons who it appears are absolutely de-
pendent upon him for support. The
heir to the title and estates Is the baro-
nets younger brother, Frederick, who
lives at Nation. Yorkshire.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09
BELONGING
THE

is not a penal institution in the country
that would be so difficult of access as the
Treasury through this door, 1t is used
fer no other purpose than for bringing IN
and taking out money belonging to the
government.
After the money has been brought In
through this door it comes into restrict
ed corridor. which is closely guarded at
all times by capable watchmen. After II
is once in 1t is distributed to the proper
offices and divisions by means OF the
concealed coin lift and restricted corri-
doris. and is at all times under the direct
supervision of strong guard of men.
Some idea of the amount OF money nan
died I'm this way daily may be gathered
from the following:
February IS, 1913. the national bank re-
demption agency of the treasurer once
received for redemption from nauonai
banks the sum of 81 ,624 ,G49.JO: delivered
s2.2C9, 900: cash balance on hand, s36 Ssv'-
7s629.
The redemption division of the treas
urer's Office received s62o, 600: delivered,
y11t,WA.
The registers Office received and count
cd SOL,
The division Of loans and currency re-
ceived and counted, 81, $50. ao6
The treasurer delivered. to- the ship
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

Guerlain's 'kadine' and Rue d. Ia
PAX and coty's Purple Lilac
'kadine'' is an iris. but 50 fragrant and
lasting. so arranged and dressed M.
that ii seems a queen of odors. Rue de
Ia Paix is softly sweet. restful, Moth
ing Dungent. but haunting and even
makes a crave. Both cost 81 for the
smallest bottle. of scarcely seventy
grams liquid contents. Gueriains 'i'1l
Arome' is a perfume of flowers. but o.
what you would call tropical nowers. II
is warm perfume. as "A pineapple or
banana compared to an apple. There
are also tropical woods IN II. cinnamon,
santol aromatics like pepper and gwen
peppers and boS du rose. not what we
called rosewood. but an odorous wood.
very light from French Guiana. The
elder Guerlain says that they have sew
eral tropical essences which are Sc
cret of their house.
Ii / have kept you long at Guerlain's
it is because the perfume princess desired
it, Certain conneuissrs pretend that they
can always recognize Guerlain perfume.
and that Guerlain cannot make anything
but Guerlain. Personally, the writer
loves perfumes. One may praise a water
color painter. WELL the great perfumer
is similar.
las there exist, in reality, but three
colors," gay the admirable Gabriel tiuer-
lain. land by mixing and supervising
them we create "A sweet landscape or
lovely face: so the perfumer ohght To tt
an artist to create suaye odors, Varieu
and uncloying from a small iiunlbe- OF
well known elements. When the picture
is painted. you know the artists style.
STERLING HELLO.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09

alarm is turned in it registers not only
in the Office of the captain of the watch,
but automatically at police head
quarters.
There is one vault in the Treasury
building that has a double protection
and that is the emergency currency
vault in the Office of the controller OF
the currency. which contains approx
mately 100000, 900. This vault has all
the protection of the other vaults of
the building. and in addition is so con-
structed with small wires that it would
be impossible to puncture the seals
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-09
resting Announcements Protection VAULTS

the confines and to survey the long
corridors he would find strong body
of men on guard whom he could not
pass. These guardsmen are required
to make returns TO the office of the
captain of the watch through an an
nunciator system every fifteen min
utes during their period of watch. \
system of rotation is in vogue by which
these men change posts promptly. SO
that there is continual movement of
men at all times, and especially within
the parts of the building where the
vaults are located.