The Washington herald., 1913-10-26
Fashions at the Capital.
The Well-Dressed Woman OF Smart Society What
She Wears the Time and Place
BY MARGAnET wADH.

That very hour of the day. and every
day OF the week is TO have fashion all
its own is fully understood by the lead
ers OF the smart world, although some
times not recognized by the would-be
smart women of any fashionable COM
munity. To be smart Is not, necessarily,
to be fashionable; to be fashionable. Is
not to be smart by any means, as many
a woman knows to the cost Of her bank
account and her own peace of mind.
SO .extreme are the newest fashions
appearing slowly, but surely. that for
the wise woman or small means or eco
nOmical habit. the only thing to do Is
10 furnish her last years wardrobe by
a new hat or two. and, possess her soul
in peace.
One OF the prondest miIliners :. in F
Street definitely proclaims that her hats
are not pretty, "but they are smart"
while heretofore fashionable tailor is
losing patrons Of years because he de-
cIaressto make skirts ultra-fashionable
is vulgar" There Is happily, a golden
mein in fashion, but it takes great dis
elimination to discover il in this autumn
Of 1918 For the woman who demands
something new At every turn there is
an infinIto variety TO choose from.
The fashions OF the coming winter are,
undoubtedly new and smart. Many OF
them are graceful and becoming, but
none of them can be produced without
adding to thez increased cost or l1ving'
of which economists tell us so much
While velvet hats have been in vogue
for nearly two months; and furs dyed
to match any costume made their ap-
pearance in the last week, there are,
nevertheless. many women OF smart So
ciety taking steat comfort in their demi-
season toilets, or even In last springs
suits.
Miss Jane Riggs, just home from the
Virginia springs. is one of the recognized
exclusives of Washington society, taking
4 morning constitutional in a mohair-
tailored suit topped by a small black
straw hat. Miss Riggs skirt has no IN
dication of ''peg-top" slit, or peplum- II
Is a good. well-made, well-tailored round
skirt with plaits in the back, anordlng
great freedom of action TO its aristo-
,raticr wearer Both suit and hat are OF
he hest materials and best workman
;hip. Dignified and becoming to lady
whose example is worth following In
many things.
To he beautifully and becomingly at
tirsd for every occasion, and yet disre-
gard what the average woman considers
the mandate of fashion, Is the almost
unattainable that is, nevertheless at
tanned by Mrs. Dewey, wife OF the ao-
riral of the navy, who throughout all
her brilliant social career has oeen re,
.rarded as one of the best gowneo
women. not only of Washington. but of
America.
Several years ago Mrs. Dewey announc-
ed TO the modistes and tatlors VINO sup
oIied her well stocked wardrobe, that
until skirts were made wide at the hem,
and narrow at the belt, she would pur-
,hase no new clothes Naturally, the
,oss of such a customer was not to be
thought of. As consequence, the
modistes and tailors began to think, and
the wife of the admiral has her new
clothes ON her own lines, still preserving
she picture of a great lady, as viewed
nom either a personal or official stand
point.
Never Of robust health. this former
leading hostess has practically retired
from general society, but in her own
home preserves the same standard oil
good taste. and the appreciation OF all
beautiful materials and colorings' Tor
which she has long been famous.
One of Mrs. Dewey's favorite afternoon |
GOWNS is pompadOur silk in the newest |
coIorings. a floral design OF dull toned
rnses on a white ground, in the soft |
iranabIe quality which the average !
modiste of 1913 would make for the aver |
age woman with peg top and narrow
hem. As worn by Mrs. Dewey, this has |
no drapery. whatesDr; is certainly two
and a half Yards at the hem, and, |
furthermore, is trimmed in a succession |
# small ruffies and undulating lines Of 1
earrow velvet ribbon
The top of the gown is one of those |
artistic creations of no fixed period, but |
uuite la mode, as it has the curved
lines of the new basqued bodice without |
anv of the Iatter's exaggerated waist
line, the surplice neck with a fall of
delicate lace, the three-quarter, we'll
fitted sleeve with lace frills just to the
hand. and the now all-preyailing girdle
The latter of the silk and velvet ribbon. |
There is no sash, no tunic, no extreme
collar or any other sign of the elabora-
ton run riot. which disfigure scores OF
otherwise handsome gowns worn by
women of less discriminating taste.
p The sash, in particular, should be re-
sarded as a danger signal, as no detail
of dress can be so abused or misplaced.
There are sashes, and sashes, but unless
designed and applied by an artist In
clothes be the latter the modiste or the
wearer, any woman over twenty-five
isks her dignity in wearing this acees-
SHTN, WnlCn mas no pld1S
the fascinating and the grotesque.
The standard OF splendor for winter
gowns was shown beyond all question at
chevy Chase on Wednesday night, when.
instead of the demi-toilet of summer
resort or a resurrected second best OF
past seasons. the majority of the !femi-
nine guests were in new and distinctively
smart attire. Dancing gowns are to be
irainless. according to edict from Paris
but everybody who goes to Chevy Chase
Ju Wednesday or Saturday night does
not dance; many of the more mature
members Of the popular club merely
make this semi-weekly occasion an eX-
ruse for entertaining large or smalDdin-
ner companies. consequently a greater
,ariety in dress is seen there than any
where else at this season.
one Of the particularly smart effects
ID Wednesday night WAS the white satin
and tuIIe worn by Miss Margaret Britton,
tlebutante daughter of Mr.. and Mrs.
Alexander Britton. This direct importa-
lion from Paris, whence come all the
,martest gowns seen In any American
.ity, is an ivory satin, the slip hung In Il
.unic OF Brussels net beaded in gold,
silver. and crystal, the return of this
being one Of the signs of the
lime. The t1nic is round, edged with a
narrow line of dark fur, and is wired
Is all smart tunics are more than likely
% be, despite the protest of those ladies
yho object to having their best clothes
ook like lamp shades.
This daintiest OF new frocks had the
'ound neck, suited to the youthful con-
our Of its wearer, with very short net
'ieeves, net, not tulle. being a fabric
much approved of at the present time.
L