Keowee courier. [volume] (Pickens Court House, S.C.) 1849-current, 1913-01-15
PRUNING TRUIT TREES.
Clemson Authorities Issue Informa-
ton to OrchardistS.

Pruning Is a necessity where best re-
suits are to be expected from fruit
trees. A tree can be given all the
attention possible relative to cultiva-
ton and fertilizer, but unless it is
judiciously pruned the branches will
become thick, weaken and die. These
become the harboring places for in
sects and fungus diseases which prey
upon the tree and fruit. Even if the
branches do not die they become so
thick that the fruit is inferior in size,
color and quality. Well pruned, low
pruned trees, having the bearing
wood we'll distributed, and being
stout and stoCky, are able to bear
and hold up heavy crops of fruit.
They also facilitate spraying, thin
ming and harvesting. They are also
by far more ornamental in appear
ance then the awkward, long limbed
unpruned trees. Pr ming is neces-
sary, therefore, where the best trees
and first class fruit are desired.
To get the most satisfactory re-
suits pruning should be done every
year. BY annually heading back and
thinning out the small branches dur
ing the early life of the tree and re-
moving a dead branch here and
stray limb there, in after years, the
tree can be kept in good, healthy
fruiting condition, and ii will mover
be necessary to cut out large limbs
or unbalanCc the tree by very n4uyy
pruning. Pruning should consist
more in directing the growth each
year than by checking it by one
heavy pruning which is to make up
for years Of neglect. If a tree is
properly directed and shaped when
young it will never be necessary to
cut out many branches or large
limbs in later years.
Pruning should commence when
the tree is planted. When the tree
is planted cut back the dead and
broken roofs to good living wood,
leaving a clean, smooth cut. The
young tree should be pruned back to
the height the head of the tree is to
be formed, which height should be
consistent with the methods Of cult
vation. l would suggest 16 to 1S
inches for the peach and "a to 80
inches for the apple and pear. If the
young tree is whip-like the side buds
may be allowed to form leaves the
first season to cause it to become
stout and stocky. If it is stoGky
enough, all the buds may be kept off
as they start except those intended
to form the main branches Of the
tree. 1t is a common fault to start a
young tree with too many main
branches which afterwards crowd
each other to such an extent that it
becomes necessary to cut out large
limbs. Three or four main limbs, if
properly placed, are enough for any
fruit tree. The main limbs should
he we'll arranged around the tree and
at ST. 'htly different heights on the
main axis. After the first seasons
growth all branches except those just
mentioned, should be cut away, and
these should be headed back about
half. Tie annual pruning after
wards will consist largely in heading
back the previous seasons growth
and keeping the head thinned out.
kieffer pear, prune to a bud point
outward SO as to cause the head to
spread. When the tree begins to
bear full crops Of fruit, it will not
bear a surplus amount Of wood, hence
very little pruning will be necessary,
except in the case Of the peach tree,
which should be thinneG out and
headed back, even after it is bearing
full crops Of fruit. Pruning is best
done when the trees are dormant,
preferably in the spring just before
the buds start.
1t sometimes becomes necessary to
renovate old trees which have be-
come choked with water sprouts and
dead limbs. The reclaiming process
should take two or three years, de-
pending upon the condition Of the
tree. The first year most of the wa
ter sprouts, all Of the dead limbs, and
few Of the worst offending branches
should be removed. The second year
more Of the unnecessary limbs may
be taken out. The third year the
operation may be completed. In re-
moving large limbs, as we'll as in cut