davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09
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sMN the ten years since the first
brassiere made its appearance.
this garment has developed from
y an undeniably homely affair. built
solely for reducing purposes into a
most charming and Indispensable ac-
cessory of the feminine wardrobe.
The early brassieres were stoutly
built, of sturdy muslin. and even of
coutil, and were excessively boned
and laced. They came we'll up around
the neck and were quite as rigid and
uncomfortable as high busted corsets
indeed even more so, for they en-
closed the bust so firmly that the
wearer had trussed-up, in-a-vise
feeling until the garment was re-
moved.
Modern brassieres are quite differ
ent affairs. They are made OF sheer
fabrics, often net alone being used
as the foundation material. Many
of them have no boning at all, and if
bones are used one or two very short
ones at the front or under the arms
suffice. The dainty brassieres pic
tured give an idea of the prettiness
and softness of these little garments
which have now come to be an es-
sential i'll the wardrobe of the woman
who dresses well, and have entirely
supplanted the cumbersome corset
cover.
The new, low busted corsets abso-
lutely require some sort Of support
over the figure above the waistline,
and this support the brassiere fur
nishes adequately without constructing
the figure in the least. Every corset
department carries an enormous sup
ply of brassieres. from the simplest
models of cambria trimmed with
narrow edge of machine embroidery,
to very elaborate and expensive bras
sieres of lace and fine embroidery
The excellent fit is now given by the
cut rather than by rigid boning, and
there are brassieres for every kind of
figure, from the youthful, undevel-
oped figure of the girl in her teens.
to the plump contours of the matron
of forty or over; and naturally, the
fuller the figure, the more care must
be exercised in the choice of bras
siere.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

gradually shorten from front to back.
but is dragged up suddenly at the
center of the back, revealing quite
plainly the back of the buttoned boot
and sometimes even little of the silk
stocking above. Women have ever
been proverbially careless about the
condition of the back of their boots,
this portion often showing gray and
shabby while toe and instep are I'm
maculately black and polished. If
skirts are to be, drawn up at the back
women will have another lesson in
good grooming to learn.
Still Another silhouette.
A Paquin frock of Girandole blue
silk with black tulle and crystal beads
illustrates still another silhouette
which has been foisted upon femin-
unity this autumn. This frock shows
an oddly shaped tunic which appears
to have turned back cuff, or pam
nier, standing out from the hips
From the lower edge of this pannier
falls an airy flounce of tulle weighted
with bead ornaments. Paquin has
built several costumes from drawings
made by the artist, Drian, for Mile.
tfd DY DeSIyS WHO Will wear lneH lnlS
season on the stage; and some of the
costumes show this queerly standing
out tunic effect at the hips.
Corsetless Turkish Effects.
Many are the names given to the
new Turkish creations of shimmering.
clinging stuff and glittering beads.
Buzenet has achieved fame in his
adaptations of Turkish and Minaret
modes and one of his creations is pic
tured; a waistless gown of orchidie
velvet stomachered with crystal and
pearl embroidery and draped over
pantalons of pleated silk, veil of
chiffon falling between skirt drapery
and pantalons. The headdress of sill
yer tissue sewed with pearls Is a strik-
ing attribute of this costume. Like
all these new Turkish Inspirations
Buzenet's gown is worn without cor
sets. the perfectly natural and uncon-
fined figure being revealed by the lines
of the gown.
From Poiret comes another re-
splendent Turkish gown, called the
Sophia pronounced So-fee-ah) be-
cause of its wonderful fiounce of
Byzantine embroidered lace in imi-
tation of a frieze in the church of
st. Sophia in Contantinople. The
skirt of this gown is of orange vel
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09
AN ATTRACTIVE HOUSE PLANT
FROM GRAPEFRUIT SEED.

n SINGLE grapefruit seed, planted
~ in rich soil and watered d.ligent-
= ly, will develop into a graceful
little tree, with glossy. dark green
leaves-just the thing to stand on the
porch step in summer and on a hall
table in winter. Three of the SEEDS
planted in large pot last spring have
grown into three of these little, taper
ing trees, one much taller than thGt
other two and the group is most ef-
fective on the window ledge Of sun
ny dining room. Wandering Jew is
a cheerful winter plant for its pale
green leaves seem to catch and hold
the sunshine. Wandering Jew may
be rooted in a bowl of water and
kept on a bracket all winter by a
window, little water being added
from time to time. Planted in eartiia
this plant grows very rapidly and
takes on darker. richer green.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09
Doing Over" Old Furniture

IF you have picked up rare bar
gain this summer, in the way OF
an old lowboy, or candle-stand
with glass knobbed drawers and
carved legs, do not be. discouraged at
the estimate of the antique furniture
dealer in town, for doing over" the
ancient piece and bringing out the
beauty of the wood. If the table,
desk or lowboy is not actually marred
or scratched 1t may be put in very
satisfactory condition by rubbing
with furniture oil and then applying
= GOAT Of orange sheliac. OF course
the wood must first be thoroughly
cleaned and rid of paint or grease
spots. At any good hardware shop
brass drawer handles in imitation of
oId Colonial designs may be obtained,
and 1t will be better to put on bright,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

- frenzy for feminine-liSe, she is
unable to make up her mind.
y Three separate and distinct
types of costume have been presented
for her delectation by the indefatiga-
BILE couturiers, each backed up by an
artist who is eager to achieve fame,
IL not on canvas, at least in chiffons,
and poor Mistress Fashion, now lean
ing this way, now that, is in a pretty
state of mind.
Each of the new modes has its ire
sistible features; yet no three modes
may have equal favor at one and the
same time. and none of the three, 1t
appears, is willing to wait its legiti-
mate time. EVERY dog has his day"
is all very fine in theory; but any in
felligent and experienced canine can
tell you where the dog who cour-
teously draws back and awaits his
turn at the bowl of dinner rations is
likely to come out. Just SO with the
hoop tunic and the hustle. Let them
modestly retire a pace in favor of the
aggressive Turkish modes, and where
will they be a twelvemonth from now
when younger and probably more
fetching fashions shove to the fore?
So it goes. Each couturier stands
like a rock for his-or her-particu-
lar decision as to what 1914 styles
are going to be; and the result is
likely to be fine hodge-podge of sar-
torial effects during the coming win
ter.
How French Plays Set the Fashion.
Almost every new fashion that
makes itself heard over two conti-
nents, utters it's first scream for no
toriety on the boards of French the
etres. This was true of the famous
Moyenage mode which made a radi-
cal change in waistlines 1t was true
also of the recent vogue of classical
and Oriental effects. This autumn
lie Minaret' at the theatre Renais-
sance has given the world something
to talk about in its short-tuniced cos
TUNES that have already wrought a
metamorphosis in the feminine silhou-
cite.
Paul Poiret, who designed the cos
tunes for lie Minaret,' is a genius
and like every other genius he believes
that one may gain much only by dar-
Ing much; or in other words nothing
venture. nothing have" The famous
ballet in this much-talked of produc-
lion, SOlupostu OIL WlilOWy nalQenS
called Les Minarets," wear remark
able costumes for which Poiret him
self made the sketches. over the
most clinging skirts, these damses
oisport excessively hooped tunics of
airy stuff. and in the poses of the bal
let, the diaphanous minaret tunics are
manipulated in most wonderful ways
Two equally remarkable costumes are
worn by young women who play moro
important roles; one a Minaret gown,
worn by Mile. Corbe, who has Gre
ated the role of Mai-Mouva; and the
other q Turkish gown worn by Mile.
Marcelle in the role of Zour-Zurabe.
Mile. Corbe's Minaret creation boasts
three distended tunics. while the
Turkish costume of Mile. Marcelle has
brilliant jacketed blouse above ac-
Gordon pleated pantalons. OF course
appropriate head-dresses, worn by
each Of these young actresses, add
much TO the effect of the costume.
Minaret Wins BY Its Piquancy.
Though the idea of a hooped tunic
made women hold up hands of holy
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

blouse of cream machine embroidery.
Skirts "Hilxed up at Back Suggest
Bustle idea.
Another hustle gown, by Drecoll,
who agreeably follows all of the dis
puted modes in conservative manner.
is intended for promenade wear and
is built of citron green worsted and
mohair mixture with touches of skunk
fur. A band of the fur hens the
narrow skirt which catches against
the heel of the buttoned boot at every
step, and another band of fur encir-
cles the neck of a short, saucy little
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

vet bordered with jet beads and
strings of these beads trim an orange
chiffon bodice. The tunic drapery is
of black chiffon and satin.
A Minaret gown by Poiret. in a
style that has now become familiar to
American women, Is illustrated in
model of gold colored panne velvet.
draped in the skirt and gathered into
a hoop tunic at the waistline. A
band of mink fur edges this tunic
and coneeals the hoop. The bodice,
over which a wide. shirred velvet
eirdle rises to the bustline. Is of white
tuIIe.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09
DAINTY CREPE COLLARS FOR
THE WOMAN IN MOURNING.

NlLK crepe collars in the Puritan
shape which is fashionable for
- mourning wear. and having the
deep hens always used on such coll
lars, are very expensive in the shops.
A smart collar. costs at least two dol
lars and cuffs are proportionately ex-
pensive. The white silk crepe by the
yard costs about two dollars also, and
a yard viii make three collars. Such
q collar may be fashioned by a clever
needle-woman in an hour. the hem
being set in with tiny handstitches.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

which effect the fastening. The net
pattern is cut high at the neck, like
an ordinary waist pattern. With this
neat, fitted net foundation. hooked
up trinity on the figure, mark with
q soft pencil. the slope of the decol-
1etage. One brassiere has a deeply
V'd decolletage; the other Is rounded
out at the top. The embroidery
banding which trims one brassiere
was basted to the net along the edge
of the decolletage-or rather to the
penciled line indicating the deep "
and also around the lower part of the
garment. At the shoulders the front
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

line. Below the waistline is hip
length tunic laid in box pleats at the
waistline and evidently reinforced
with crinoline inside the hem, for
the pleats stand out crisply from the
clinging, draped skirt beneath. The
astonishing feature of this costume is
the hiking" up of the tunic at the
center back, and the corresponding
"hike'' upwards of the skirt. Many
of the skirts, turned out in Paris
now, are three inches shorter at the
center back than the rest of the
length; that is, the skirt does not
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

DO0lce Is d very Trim braSS1cfe.
Some women make their own bras
sieres, and once q well fitting pat
tern has been secured, it is really a
very easy matter to put together one
of the pretty little affairs, for much
of the work may be done by hand
in otherwise idle moments like fancy
work.
All very thin brassieres should have
the firm foundation of net beneath.
This foundation keeps the brassiere
in correct lines and acts as stay
for the delicate lace trimming which
might otherwise pull away in the
laundering. Brassieres for wear with
decollete gowns, are all built over net.
A pattern is first cut from the net
which is fitted, not gathered at the
waistline by means of small darts
finished with French seams The side
seams are also daintily finished in
the same manner and down the front
edges are, stitched hens or facings
of white lawn. To these lawn hens
are attached the hooks and eyes
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

ing garment under loose bodices or
blouses. 1t is made of handkerchief
linen. carefully fitted by means of
seams and darts and is trimmed
across the bust and around the edges
with machine embroidery. Light
washable whalebones are inserted In
the seams near the waistline.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

iiolioI at us IHllldl SuSSeStlOn, the
tunic has speedily won a way to ia
vor. This is because it is really an
undeniably attractive affair. 1t gives
scope for entirely new ways of using
fabrics and trimmings. 1t is i'm itself
gay and youthful, and therefore ir-
resistible, dress attribute-and it has
entirely changed the silhouette of
which femininity was beginning to
weary. One may be as extreme, or as
conservative as she pleases, moreover,
with this Minaret idea. 1t is duite
within the limitations of propriety to
wear a widely hooped tunic-or two
or three tunics If one desires--and it
is equally proper and equally smart
to wear an unwired Minaret, falling in
graceful lines close to the skirt be-
meath. All that the Minaret requires
of its builder is that it shall be short
and that the skirt under it shall be
excessively clinging and narrow. But
women have become accustomed to
narrow skirts now and have learned
to walk and to sit in them without
discomfort The buttoned boots of
the moment have very high, curved
heels and these high heels restrain the
length of the stride SO that the mar
row skirt does not hamper the move
ments as it might in a boot of more
common sense" type. One of the
French dressmakers is cutting walk
ing skirts so narrow this fall that
in the band of fur which invariably
hens the lower edge, the hairs bristle
out at every step with the drag of
the fabric against the feet. All street
frocks have rather short skirts, the
dainty buttoned walking boot being
quite frankly revealed. Such boots,
in the models of good form, have
long. slender toes of patent leather,
high heels and buttoned tops of kid
in contrasting color.
VIII the Bustle Obtain Favor?
In this era of Minaret frenzy. it
seems a queer time for the promoters
of the hustle to push it forward-or
as one might more properly say
backward. But two of the most i'm
portant couturiers are advocating the
hustle; and this new 1913 hustle does
not obtrude itself modestly upon fem
inine notice--as the first hustle of
twenty years ago did--in a little pad
at the back of the waistline. Not a
bit of it, The modern hustle is an
enormous affair that cannot possibly
be mistaken for a punched up petit
coat under the frock. Witness Pre-
NETS hustle gown which set Paris by
the ears when it made its appearance
a month ago. Premet insists that
TINS hustle gown Is beautiful: and
that 1t is offered seriously and not
as joke, for women's consideration
as a new mode.
As the photograph of the Preme ct
hustle gown shows, the skirt draperv
Is punched up toward the back. A
wide sash is tied over the draperv to
augment the boufant effect. and
clouds OF puffy black tulle are
punched over all. No wonder Paris
was aghast, and it remains to be seen
what felnininity will do about the
hustle gown. There are several indi-
cations, hoWever-mere whispers. but
pregnant ones to the initiated-that
this hustle idea is taking hold" For
example, Martial Armand have
brought out a frock-worn by Mile.
Darcourt at the Varieties" which has
more than little suggestion of the
hustle idea. This frock of fuchsia
lansdowne, very soft, lustrous weave
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

new brassware of this kind than to
work over the old. rusted and dented
handles on the furniture.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09
The Hoped Tunic, the Bustle Back, the Flow Of
Turkish Drapery- Which? Art Comes to the
Rescue Of Style Fashions Modelled On Gre
ations Evolved for the French Stage

~ ASHTON is just now in a fine
~ frenzy, for feminine-like, she is
l unable to make up her mind.
y Three separate and distinct
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-11-09

sKN the ten years since the first
brassiere made its appearance,
this garment has developed from
on md 10 bIxr hon, aIu al flair hI1ilt
Douglas Island news., 1913-05-07
WEDNESDAY. MAY '. 1913

After sixty days of labor the. first Alaska Legislature adjourned on May 1st. Many have been anxious to criti- else, and perhaps in some respects the work done--or left undone--was su5- feet to criticism. Human nature IS weak, and even Alaskans are not with out fault However, we can say that the mistakes made are our own, made by our own repres entatiyes, aud they are not greater nor any harder 10 bear than the countless other mistakes that have marked the conduct of Alaskan affairs. Again, there are those who eX pected that this little band of men, hurriedly selected and hurried from their distant homes to take part in the first step for home rule, would be cole in sixty days to revolutionize Alaskan affairs and establish all things needed for her comfort. A thing impossible. Another two years will roll around and another legislature will be in ses, sion at Juneau, having for their help the foundation laid by this first body aud for their guidance the mistakes made. During the intervening time Congress may take uote of the dignifed acts of oar first law making body and extend to us still greater privileges aud powers. Ali the time we are conscious that we are coming iulo own rights as citizens of the United States. This alone gives to Alaskans justification for the proud boast that they are no longer classed with serfs and depend ants, but are now members aud part of the power that ru!es amoug ths peo ples Of tine world.
Douglas Island news., 1913-05-07

The ladies of the Improvement Club take this means of extending their thanks to the business men. of Douglas for their courtesy and kindness in so readily consenting to close their places of business in order to assist the women in their efforts to clean the town. Of course it is to the interest of everyone to have the place sanitary and healthful, but it is necessary on ac- count of the children, among whom there has been an epidemic of some dread disease every year for the past four years. Men have at all times been noted for their chivalry aud nobility. The men of Douglas have proven this true of not only those of "Ye Olden Time" Thank you, gentlemen. x
Douglas Island news., 1913-05-07

DIED-Gust Gu>tatson, 8 native of Jeppo, Fiulaud, April 29th, aged 3S years. Fuuefay service were held in the Swedish Lutheran Church in this city Sunday afternoon at 2o'clock, Rev. JH. Warmans officiating, The inter ment was a, the Douglas Cemetery. The deceased lived in Douglas many years, and was generally kuown as "Mucker Gus"
 Rain and wind coGsp pired to combat the preparations for the Sour Dough Dance given at Maya6wsr Raliion lss9 Thursday night, Ba' in suite oft ssii ], a large crowd of dancers assembled' and daueed anG lnughedi. gnd' danced again. The occasion wae honoreGi 5g; the presence of the mem5sro- of S'le Alaska Legislature-~whieH' dad Jcst concluded its labors-- audi So7er1C'' Clark. The Sour D6ugn' .e2tss8uasnes were cooked on the trail anal serTed' hot to all corners:
 Manager Mclverr has t1er srraligs- ments for the Second Auuasr Nor chants Fair and Mayfovvr garniFgi' we'll under way. IL will open cni iAhg 10th and continue for weeks One week of such fun as the pgouiS' oei Douglas, young and old,, never saw. A number of special attractions will come up from the Ssales, arriving; here in time for the big opening uigEt. Nss space in the large hall will be taken up to the last iuch. It is now assared'thaG' all the eForts of last year will be out doue
Douglas Island news., 1913-05-07
-tN-gN1 srA aga- -coNRTs


 liYsbi6n No. 1-Judge, Thomas k. Lyons, ;t1,,e2urs Clerk of. Court, E. w. Petit, Ju- fss,,s U1i5edStatos Mershek H. |. Faulkner. .jr,,szsr75 Ynised StaseS Attorney, J ohn. Rust ss;fr,l ssneas.
 OtFxjf5n,N No:2 -J;,ds5e.C- D. Gurarei Nome; ! l--fA ss 2cnrt, Eohu SundbeClS, Nome f;,itsc} s5&see Iarshai3 Thomas c. Powell, lgcsy,ss-- Jr,t4e5 S.eses .Attcrpey. R. s, Rodey, Nis,rse,
 p2at;ossE0. S2-Jadge P5Ser- D. oeerAeId, 7ystlez: Gle.Es or sourt, Angus Mcbride; }lHstd' ',S3ae5,hSaashasi, Harvey P. Sullivan DlrisJ2 23tsssr. .t sevrey Geoege-R. Walker. D,sssias N9.-e- Jsidge, Frederick E. Fuller, .sasiBaTay,- e sgiS s3 Coar6, c. c. Pagei y.9seG: S-aSes. Marshall. H. K Love United Ssss0e .Atsnrnsya. .JaEIeS ] Crcssiey.
 pHEsszS RgAgss~EAND oRBIoH gf5ssion, 7o. t@-G B. Walker, register; S-aa,k, 4, Bsgle, receiver, Juneeu. 5iasSioa. No. o. fehr Sundhack, ezi-odicio rea.Sse.-;- I2,o,uas G.. Powell, ex.oaicfoy re- ys.|s-y- Meme.
 Division 5toe S. Cncinded in DfFfsion No. I. ,Dlsasiou-No. gl-C. c. Page, .e&-otfeio regis- 5sr7e E. Rs. 1gasi s;s~osieSe receiver Fair- SasSiss
 JgEEsarIH5N2r, 0Ts 4aB1SCLEU g. C., Georgsoou, sNsasiss asDsna ip charge of Alasss9,irzeasisas1so B, ,SsdssS
 B0GrzaCl0n Ralter,F. Clarla, ez cs5i,sie, superintendent of pubIic,iastrua6icn,, Rsse2oO-
 EAruFE sCHacas D. P cLagzscl,. ,reEn,1,ass6sE1eS oF education, Yashins,son- Dl 0.s W. T. Agspgs superiRtend- enSofeds-caaien 5s Sia4SwssGjf Alaska, Wash ington,. D. C.. s.di SssaStss, Wash; H. C. Sin- cloia,. .su-,pISg agsutt; A B QS-asles, dishursing agent, Seatafs Wash.
 LErlEalSg6 7SsTsrUE Geopge l2aheliiiafs,ii, aasTihsy collector, Fair banks; Edgas C.. Rsil,sl, Frank NJ. Thatcher, deputy collectors, Nome.
 1AlMaGs9AusesS sE3TIeR Domisuus Aaslteviczfass inspector in charge of district or Alaska, Ketehikan; AL bert \. Joy, inspector, Skagway.
 MINE INSPECTION Sumner S. SSSmish, inspector for-Alaska, 8u- neau.
 STEAMBOAT INSPECTION SERVICE Geo. E. Whitney, inspector of hulls; Thes. B. KelE inspeotorof boiiens, Juneau; Thos' p. Deeriug, ,hulis;, Carl F.. Lehners, boilers, St. Michael FOREST SERVICE Tongass National Forest-w. G. Weigle, forest supervisor, Ketchikan. Chugach Nabional Forestr-P. Nj. Hunt, dep uty forest supervisor. Cordova.
 TERRITORIAL HEALTH-oFFIcER Emil Krulish, passed assistant surgeon, Bureau of Public Health and Marine Hospi- tal service, Juneau
Douglas Island news., 1913-05-07
Regulations for Clean up Day.

Regulations for Clean up Lay.
 Children are not to go into or clean in other yards than their own.
 Children are to clean and rake their own yards during the forenoon and make flower beds and other improve, ments in the afternoon. The Civic Club will not be responsi- ble for accidents nor practical jokes on that day,
 Things of value should be removed from the streets by owners, to avoid complications.
 A squad of men will clean all the gulches.
 Children wanting tickets Cor supper can procure them at stations when bringing in sacks of cans, or rubbish, from their own yards, to station nearest their homes.
 The five stations and those in charge:
 Ganteen, Mrs. Erie; Hospital, Mrs. Hahn; SawmiH, Mrs. Pearce; Postofice corner, Mrs. Warmanen; Eggan's corner, Mrs EgRan.
 At quarter of five the fire bell will announce first call for supper, which will be served at five ID the assembly room at the school house.
 All interested, and who have in way helped make clean up day a success, are con dially invited to be present. at the big feed
 Three judges, Messrs Umstead, 1, Warmaren and Osborne, have been chosen to inspect the yards of Douglas the day previous and the day after clean up day, and three cash prizes, S750, S5 and S2.50 will be awarded for the most improved yard in one day, the work to include cleanliness, removal of stumps and rubbish, making of flower beds and fences, mending of sidewalks, etc. In August an additional prize of SIC will be awarded for the best kept yard during the summer.
 The prize money is drawn from the Civic Club fund and not from funds appropriated by the City Council