davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27
BY THE BOULEVARDIER.

~ may be said that the truly well
dressed man is ne who has observed
all the rules OF fashion. and yet Gre
III ates the impression that he has
never given serious thought to any
Of them. In other words. man should
think about his clothes before he puts
them on but not afterward.
There are probably hundred and one
paragraphs i'm the hand book of Dame
Fashion where one is apt to fall afoul of
the single incorrect detail. apparently SO
insignificant. yet really SO far reaching
in its effect Probably one of the most
common OF errors of dress lies in the
careless choice Of neckwear. Any haber-
dasher will tell you that about half his
patrons buy ties as the result of a fleet
ing fancy. They see a pattern displayed
in the window or show case which pleases
their eye. And SO. straightway. they buy
IL, without thought as to how that par
ticufar tie fits with their own particular
type. or, still more important. how it will
"go" with the rest OF their clothes.
+ X
1t is really too bad. this. Ties ought to
be the very last portion OF mans
wardrobe to be bought, and before pur-
chasing every man should consider
whether the tie will harmonic with his
suit, whether or not II harmonizes with
his shirtings. and finally, whether 1t Is
suitable to his complexion-or, II that be
too feminine term. with the general
type OF his face All these things are
most important. the first two obviously
so, and the last even more so. For in
stance. put any vivid colored tie on a
man of the pronounced blond type. and
nine times out of ten his blondness will
be so accumulated thereby that he will be
made to appear washed out" or at least
.spasty'' looking. On the other hand. a
man of a pronounced brunette type fire.
quently presents better appearance In
a vivid colored tie than in any other.
And speaking of ties brings the fact to
mind that the styles have changed for
the third time within a. year. A twelve
month ago the narrow hand-knit tie was
the one and only thing. ii being about
the only kind adaptable to the close-fit-
ting high collars then in vogue. Then the
knit ties went out, superseded by silk
ties of a semi-fiowing variety. And now
comes the frankly flowing tie-back after
an absence Of nearly three years-a tie
the base OF which may measure from five
10 seven inches across.
The new style Of collar. which has ar
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

United States dollar week in addi-
ton to the prices they are now re-
ceiving. And this Is but typical or
produce in general. Preparation for
investigation, and the ultimate object
will be to get the idea Of better meth
DDS to the farmer.
Then there is finally the big question
Of the cost Of transportation. The cost
of hauling his produce by rail or wag-
on or however 1t is hauled will be
thoroughly investigated. The question
Of good roads will enter here. Rail-
road rates will probably play a great
er part. II returns show that pro-
ducers in one part Of the country are
paying more for the same service than
in another the department will want
to know why.
While the department has done COM
paratively little in demonstrating the
possibilities of organization there is
one case in a community of cotton
growers that is notable. A representa-
tive was sent to Easley, S. c., to or
ganize a community of farmers as an
experiment. These farmers grew cot
ton ca 'usively, and sold it to a local
cotton mill. Tne.' had been producing
mixed grades Of cotton anc selling 1t
for about II cents.
After the farmers were organized the
government agent first proposed to these
farmers that they all grow the same
grade Of cotton. They agreed and all Sc
cured sufficient quantity of one sort of
cotton to make it worth while for an i'm
portant buyer to bid upon their crop.
The second step was to have the cotton
ginned in accordance with modern meth
DDS and made up into the best and most
convenient bales for handling. In this
case the round bale method was follow
ed. thus producing a neat and conven-
iently- handled package. Sheds were also
provided at the gin and the cotton was
not exposed to the weather
X X
The agent of the Department of Agri-
culture rendered a service that may soon
be supplied by the government He kept
the farmers informed as to the prevailing
market prices of their cotton. They no
longer were forced to take the word Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

SO. Also. while there will be smooth
straws on the market, they will be
woefuily In the minority; The hobby.
ed straw. twisted in patterns brand
new and rather unique.
"Of course" said the manufacturer,
were making up a few hats with
lower crowns and wider brims-we al
ways do. no matter what the style may
be-for there are some men who don't
look well in anything else, who know
1t. and who let fashion go hang. But
we won't make up many. We find that
whether 1t is becoming or not Men
are just as particular about being up
to-date on the hat question as women"
But II You object to the high crown and
narrow brim-and such a style is OBJ
jectionable to many-you can avoid
them and still be in style by buying
Panama. A number Of years ago the
Panama sprang into countrywide favor
kinds Of summer hats. Then it's popu-
lartty began to wane until the Panama
was the exception rather than the rule
NOW, as the unceasing cycle of fash
again. and dealers say there will be
more Panamas sold and worn this year
than for four years preceding.
And, whereas the Panama Of ancient
days cost SIS. so and $25. and hence
was barred to many. the Panama Of
today. or rather the hat that passes as
q Panama, is within the reach of all. Not
so many days ago q local haberdasher
put out q whole windowfull Of them at
8 each. Truly enough 1t is extremely
improbable that these were genuine Inn
ported Panamas. It is more probable
that they were made in this country, by
machinery, rather than by hand. as in
the case with the genuine article. Per-
haps though, the material OF which the
hat was made really was imported, and
certainly those hats looked to be worth
all OF the price asked. and more. Again
for $ or 81 one can get Panama that
is really splendid-and this price isn't
much when you stop to figure that
Panama will last throughout an entire
summer, possibly two. whereas one prob
ably would wear out or discard two or
three hats of the ordinary straw variety
in that time.
But in buying q Panama one must
be as careful as to style as in any other
kind OF hat. The shape Of a Panama may
make Il as passe as any other article
OF mans attire. So. IL you decide on
a hat OF woven grass, It might be wise
to avoid picking out one OF the fedora
type. The round or square block will
be the most fashionable this summer, by
which b meant q hat with q crown left
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

was done in the Roman bronze works of
Brooklyn, at WHICH Gen. Fred Grant was
constant visitor. The director of these
works is Sig Botelli himself an accom-
plished sculptor. friend and protege of
the late Umberto of Italy. But one part of
this great piece of architectural sculpture
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

especial benefit. And, finally, the knock
about hat has the big advantage of econ
omy. Even IL you get the imported adj
ticle the price is low. The price of the
domestic article, which will serve just
about as well, provided one does not care
about the label on the inside, is still
lower.
The men who wear light felt hats
throughout the summer will not do so for
reasons OF economy. however. The work
manship on these hats is extremely deli
cate. Also the material Is Of the light
est and finest procurable. AS a natural
dftfon to all this, such hat soon proves
itself a veritable luxury. To look cool
1t must be either dead white or cream
colored. Such colors soil easily and show
every spot under any circumstance. but
in this case the felt, while smooth as
silk to the touch. is yet rough enough to
figuratively reach out and catch eSeSy
floating particle Of dust.
And such hats once dirty can scarcely
be cleaned, or. rather. they cannot be
cleaned quite thoroughly enough. As a
result, the owner of such hat, once IL
Is dirty. has no alternative but to lay It
aside for a new one. And his haberdash-
er's bill at the end Of the summer is apt
to look as if it had changed sexes and
been sent out by milliner.
What Is the peculiar psychology of the
thing that causes a man to buy ties,
shirts. shoes. hosiery and hats, and then,
last OF all. q suit? Probably, the suit
being the most important Of all, II is due
to q natural Unborn desire for climax.
Looking at the thing, casually though, il
would seem that ii ought to be just the
other wav around-that a man should buy
his suit first and then base his other pur-
chases accordingly. But human nature
cannot be remade.
But little worry need be exercised over
what kind of a suit to get this spring.
Naturally the stores have goods of just
about every conceivable pattern, but
when all is said and done. the real choice
Is rather limited. In short to be FASH
ionabie you are practically forced ID
choose either q blue or q small check OF
exactly the pattern which a few years
back was considered fit only for follow.
ers of the race track or course, IL YOU
can AFFORD II, you should have both.
Surely the times have changed. Quiet
dress has become thing OF the past. To
be fashionable this spring. you have to
be loud" Even the blue suits show
the effects of this demand for "loud-
ness" There are some suits of dark.
quiet blue-and there are some who buy
them. But the younger generation almost
as a whole and a goodly majority OF all
the other men who are smart dressers
prefer q blue OF brighter hue. Some OF
the blue suits on sale are positively glarus
ing-and they are the very last word ia,
too. -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

ed long ago. But mems styles move slow
ly. though they move exceedingly sure.
One little word in passing about white
shoes Don't wear white shoes and black
hosiery, not even II your hosiery be of
finest silk. Have your hose match your
shoes. or II you will not do that, get
hose of a dark blue. But avoid black and
reds. maroons and greens. though even
is best and dark blue is next. and there
is no third choice.
The writer was in the. establishment OF
a local manufacturer OF hats the other
day, and the talk naturally fell on the
coming styles In straws.
want to see some OF the new ones
the kind we're going to put In the show
windows within the next few days?" ask
ed the manufacturer.
Il do" answered the writer. But be-
fore looking at them. I'm willing to wager
that in a general way l can describe
their main characteristics"
TRY It," urged the manufacturer.
Every WELL" replied the writer, they
will be exactly the opposite Of the styles
of last year."
And the manufacturer, grinning, MUIR
INJURED, That's right"
1t was an easy guess. for 1t is the
natural desire Of haberdashers that
every man should buy new straw
ward the close Of every summer ex-
pensive straws are cut In price until
they can be had for little or nothing.
So what more natural for q man OF
economical turn OF mind to invest in
a hat toward the close OF the sum-
mer, store 1t carefully away and bios
som out with 1t the next spring, there
by saving 81 or s..
X
It's up to the manufacturers to block
this procedure, and they do 1t by the
very simple process Of devising each
spring a style different in every par
ticular from that OF the spring pre-
ceding. Thus it is with the new straw
hats.
Like almost everything else we have
; been wearing for the past year or so.
the new straws have plainly been in
fiuenced by the English styles. There
is a faint touch OF Americanism about
them. but 1t is very faint indeed.
The crown fs exceptionally high. We
have had high crowns before, but this
year they are to be extreme. And
against this height. the brim Is excep-
tionally narrow. The band may be mar
row or broad, according to your own
individual desires, but II you listen to
the shopkeeper you will probably
1t will be rather a heavy hat, for
the straw Of both crown and brim will
be thick. The brim will be unusually
thick, measuring, on the more expen.
sive hats. full quarter OF an inch or
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

the style of footwear this summer. The
ultra long vamped, English last still pre-
walls. and the heels, low last summer, bid
fair now to be even lower. For last sum-
mer one could at least get shoe with a
heel measuring half an inch or so. This
summer while there will be such shoes
in stock. or course, they will be few and
far between. The absolutely fiat spring
heel is to be the thing, with rubber more
common than leather.
There is much to be said in favor of
this style on the side of comfort and,
perhaps, hygiene. Certainly 1t makes
walking easier, and according to our old
physiOlOgies. 1t may lessen the strain on
the spinal column. But be all this as IT
may, comfort certainly is attained at the
expense of appearance. There Is not a
single dealer but will admit that the new
styles in shoes are frankly ugly-also that
the best looking foot can only hope to
look indifferently well in them. On the
other hand, though, the new style Is a
literal boon to the man with ugly feet.
For some strange reason. while spelling
looking foot, the new shoes make large
poorly shaped foot seem less large and
less unshapely.
Tan low-quarters will, Of course, have
first call at all the shops-and rather
vivid yellow will probably be the prevail
ing color. A darker tan, verging closely
on the chocolate. has also made its APP
pearance and is proving popular. Then,
of course, there will be the usual dark
brown low shoes. made of vici kid for the
older men. But in addition to all these.
the white shoe, spurned for years by a
goodly majority of men. partly because
II required white flannels to look proper.
and partly because of the difficulty at
.tendant upon keeping it white, is coming
into popularity in leaps and bounds. The
shops are literally loaded up with them.
all qualities, and just about all prices.
For the man who has to watch his purse,
there are white shoes Of canvas. For
others there are shoes of buckskin, and
there are even some excessively dainty
and delicate shoes Of white suede.
And several of the dealers would not
be surprised to see a literal white shoe
epidemic. For the past two or three
seasons men have been indulging in oc-
casional violations of the old white
shoes-with- white-fiannels-only" rule. un-
til this summer 1t promises to be dis
regarded altogether. And there is no
logical reason why 1T should not be.
White shoes go admirably with flannelS.
but they also go admirably with most
any suit of light colored material. gray.
for instance. One may go farther than
that even, and state that they go well
with suit of blue serge. And why
not? A white shirt goes well with q
blue suit Why not white shoes as well!
The old rule ought to have been abolish
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

KUVerumeMN expert ON HuhfKetb.
would have been an additional profit of
% per cent. Such are the examples of
the advantages of organization. Such are
the possibilities that the government is
on the eve of showing to all the farmers.
The orange growers of California were
thoroughly organized. They had worked
out many of the problems, such as uni
form packing, orange market reporting
and large lot shipment. But they found
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

Who Is personally organising the
bureau Of markets.
him. The work of mapping out the new
bureau was among the first tasks that he
took up when he had settled into the
chair that had but just been vacated by
.'Tama JIM Wilson.
In the meantime Secretary Houston had
chosen DR.. Beverly T. Galloway as as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

is now finished, and that too late for Gen.
Fred Grant to admire. 1t is the artillery
group recently placed in position on one of
the massive wings that stretch cut from
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-27

BY MARGARET B. DOWNING.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30
RETAIL CREDIT MEMS aSSCClA-
TON BEING ORGANIZED HERE.
Will BE on Similar Lines to That
Formed in Portland a Year Ago

Within a week or ten days a Mer-
chants Credit association viii be es-
tablished in Augusta
After that the Dead Beat and Mr..
Slow Pay will have 10 sit ~ and take
notice.
The representatives of the Merchants
Credit Company Of Portland. Maine,
who are organizing this retail ere lit
mems association. are now in AZ Eussa.
In conjunction with this association a
credit guide will ne published, rating
the, consumer for the retailer.
The rating guide for this district i'll
rate the people within radius Of %
miles This work is part of a State
wide movement. The Portland Credit
Mems Association was organized under
this system, about Is months ago and
there are more than $50 merchants OF
Portland in the association in that
city, and they have rating hook with
mere than $4,000 names listed.
BY this system all individuals rs we'll
as firms are placed OH record. showing
at how many places they deal: what
amount of credit they obtain. and how
they pay each firm with whom they
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30
Temporary Injunction Granted
Case of United 6oxboard 60, Y
:, Sehasticook Mill Owners. - !,

\ bill in equity asking for the stem
pcrary granting of an INJUNCTION
brought by the United Boxhoarf Coz.
s1f Benton Us. Charles Spaulding, j. B.
sI)ayis, w Il. sDickey. Arthur Holt,
George Grant, Fred Whitehouse, and
D. NJ. sui. all millowners on the Sc
basticock river or its tributaries above
Benton, was heard, Thursday, before
Associate Justice Leslie c. Cornish.
The plaintiff asked temporary in
junction 10 restrict the defendants
from dumping sawdast and other
waste into the Sebasiieook river, caus-
ing damage to the Plaintiffs mill at
Benton. Messrs. Grant, Whitehouse
and suzi appeared but did not contest
the granting of the Injunction, claim
ing that they had not been given any
preliminary warning by the plaintiff
The other respondents did not appear.
A temporary injunction was granted
Nv Justice Cornish as was asked for
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30
cony v2. Gardiner al 3.45.

This afternoon comes the big game of
baseball between two old rivals, Cony
High and Gardiner. High on the Reuel
Williams field. Despite the fact tina b
Cony was trimmed in fine fashion inI
the first contest at gardiner, they ara
raetsin the least skepteaI of tacklins
the wearers Of the Orange and black in
a return engagement. Backed by the
winning of the championship in the&P
division of the RoWdoin lnterschoia tie.
League, and also from the fine article
Of ball that every man has demon
strated in contests since the Gardiner
game, the boys are going into the game
With that win or die spirit. On the 9TH
er hand, Gardiner is confident of vic
tory, but whoever wins, a fast game is
assured. Young Brennan, n second
Bender, who has pitched such remark
able ball, may be counted on to make
a good showing in the box, should lie
do the swirling. but it has not as yet
been announced as to whether ne or
Captain Harvey Will he on the mound.
On account Of the fact that the game
comes on Memorial Day. record
breaking crowd is expected TO &c on
hand. The game will start promptly at
$40
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30
vinoI Helps Old People
Hero Is Proof That II Creates
Strenqth,

So many cases like this are con-
stantly coming to our attention that
we publish it for the benefit of others
Mrs. James Mccormick of Cohoes n.
y, says: My mother is an elderly lady
and after having pneumonia she did
not seem to recover her strength She
was so weak it was about as much as
she could do To get from her room into
the living room. Her strength seemed to
be all gone. l commenced to give her
Vinol and in less than week she was
like a now woman. She had regained
her strength so she could get around
anywhere"
Ii is the medicinal curative elements
of the cod livers without oil aided by
the matchmaking and strength
ing properties of tonic iron which are
contained in Vinol that makes it so
efficient in such cases.
If you have an aged father, mother
or anyone in your family who needs a
strength -creating tonic, try Vinol on
our offer to give back your money if
it fails to benefit. Bowditeh, Webster &
Co. Druggists Augusta.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30

Mrs. Edward Barker and daughter
Abbie are visiting friends in Boston. 4
The shad fishermen report a falling
off of the fish. They have not been
very plenty, this year.
The Star Club will give an enter
tainment at Powwalboro hall, June T.
followed by a ball.
George Moody is commencing ON
his dance hall at the Grove.
Mr.. and Mrs. John White, who have
been to Clftondale, Mass, attending
the wedding of their daughter, Marion,
returned home, Tuesday morning.I
The Cedar Grove bowling team won
contest from the Dresden Mills team,
Saturday evening
Miss Morse and cousin of Bath have
been visiting Mrs. Charles Allen.x
Miss Norton of South Gardiner was
visitor, over Sunday, with Mrs. Car
RE Connell.
Fred Weeks has bought lumber
lot of Burton Reed on Dresden Neck
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30
MEMORIAL EXERCISES
For Soldier Sailor Dead at 10 A. M.
on kennebec Bridge.

Following is the program for the men,
orial exercises for the Soldier-Saiior
dead, to be held at 70 o'clock this
eFriday) morning. on the kennebec
bridge, by Seth Williams Relief Corps.
No. 96 assisted by members of other
patriotic organizations:
Singing. Nearer My God to Thee"
Invocation. Rev. Leroy w. Coons OF the
Universaist church.
Singing by school children.
Address. Mayor f. +. Newbert.
Singing by the school children.
Reading, Eleanor Davis
PRAYER. Rev. II. e. Dunnack of the
Methodist church.
Reading, Geraldine Brennan.
Address. +. G. Harrington.
Flower eXercises-ta1 by tic Corps and
guests; Obj by the Post; (c} by the
Sons of Veterans; Id by the children.
Singing. America =
Benediction. Rev Brian C. Roberts of
Saint Marks church.
Exercises will be held in the hall IL the
day be stormy
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30
Gard of Thanks.

We hereby express to our friends and
neighbors our sincere thanks and APP
probation for kindnesses during the
illness and on the occasion of the death
of our loving son and brother, Charles
II. Stuart, and would especially men
ton the name of Mr.. Frank Hewins of
Augusta, who so faithfully worked in
cooperation with us, and would also
extend thanks for the beautiful floral
offerings.
MIR. WARREN s. STUART
MRS. GEORGIA MCLAUGHLIN.
MIR. FRANK NJ. STUART.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-05-30
FREE DISTRIBUTION.
A Solid Bronze Watch Fob Given
Away With Every 10 Cent Tin of
Tuxedo Tobacco.

For the next few days a solid Bronze
Watch Fob, THE Great Seal of II. S.
A., will be given away free with, every
purchase of q 10 cent tin of Tuxedo.
Here is your chance to get one Of these
beautiful fobs free. Go to your dealer
right away. Only one fob to each Gus
toner. See announcement on Page 5
of this paper.
Mr. ]. D. Jones, who represents the
Manufacturers of Tuxedo, is in town
experimenting this free offer and a
large distribution of them is anticipat-
ed during the next few days.-Adv.