Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-31
In the Land Of Fashion.
By Anne Rittenhouse.

Even the pump that had two eyelets
would not always remain true to the
foot, and so, after much experimenting,
the Oxford tie was brought back into
full fashion.
1t will be worn this spring in the many
combinations that have made the foot
wear of this winter conspicuous. 1t
even boasts it's own little colored top
and it's naughty light heel
White canvas oxford ties laced with
white ribbon and having brown wooden
heels will be worn with colored stock
ings with informal summer clothes. es-
pecially white linen skirts and blouses.
The recrudescence of eyelet embroidery
is here. One has begun to expect 1t When
spring comes around, but there are sea-
sons when it does not appear. 1t Is one
of the best trimmings for summer
gown, as it needs little else combined
with it. Yet today we are not to be
spared extravaganza. because economy Is
not on the calendar, and even simplicity
is costly. Therefore eyelet embroidery Is
combined with coarse lace to make
complete gown.
Arabian and Bohemian laces are the
weaves preferred, for their coarse threads
chime in well with the perforations of
the embroidery. And they are new and
fashionable Such ornamental gowns
may be suitable for Palm Beach and St.
Augustine in February, but they are not
wearable in the rest of the states except
for formal hours. The wearing of white
in the streets of great cities is a de-
batable fashion for more than one reason,
and even when the fashion is carried out
in small towns or country places it is
better to keep to standard of sim
plicity.
The linen skirt with its white blouse
is the American summer uniform, and it
ccannot be improved upon if one goes
into Z ..xf- of xx-ni fo
The southerners. who know the art OF
dressing for hot weather better than
the other people of the states, are ad-
nerents Of the plain muslin frock instead
of either. white or cOlored. This idea of
dressing will be taken up a good deal
this spring and summer by women who
are tired of the two-piece costumes or
who do not want the trouble of attend
ing to number of linen skirts, and it
takes number to carry any one through
the season.
The only part that the ornamental
gown of eyelet embroidery and Bohemian
lace can successfully play this season
is a formal one. Such d gown is costly.
Even when homemade it's price is not
moderate Good eyelet embroidery by
the yard is expensive, and any one of
the so-called Bohemian laces is not
cheap. The gown must be eXquisitely
we'll made to keep up with the texture
of it's fabrics and there must be a slip
of charmeuse or silk null or Chinese silk
But even though costly it does solve
the problem of AN attractive afternoon
gown in hot weather. We are rather
tired of chiffon and wolfe; the different
weaves Of silk like taffeta lack in cool
ness, and satin is not the desire of every
one.
A white gown is needed, and one en-
tirely of white lace is too formal. and
therefore the combination of coarser
lace with fine eyelet embroidery effects
a desirable compromise.
inc ING do of aSha
gives one a proper method of touching
such an embroidery gown with color.
All white has it's disadvantages and is
not wearable by every woman. and as
long as fashion disbarred the sash there
were few ways of getting a becoming
costume. Now one can revel in brilliant
splashes of color against the white. The
choice of some really good satin enhances
the cost of the gown, but 1t is not much
of factor. after all. in the ultimate
price and it is vast improvement.
The Sashes Chosen.
On all elaborate gowns one can wear
sashes this season The wide variety in
their colors and textures is a pleasure to
the woman who is clever at this sort of
arrangement. She can twist and turn
bits of old brocade. colored velvet. yards
of satin. floral taffeta or Dresden silk
into something very artistic.
The sash of today is really a sash. 1t
makes no pretense of being only girdle.
1t swathes the hips and is knotted, Per-
sian fashion at the side front. or 1t is
folded empire fashion. high above the
waist. and arranged into a Vatican pleat
at the back. Again, it is broadened out
into a Japanese effect and finished al the
back with a wide butterfly bow or a high
looped bow that reaches to the shoulder
blades, with ends that drop to the knee. or
it may be simple sash brought aaround
the waist, with one end slipped under the
straight part and both ends falling free to
the knees i'm front or at the back.
Fringe, tassels, embroidery, velvet ap-
plique galloon and bullion crosSstitch
can all be used to ornament the plain
sash If one can get hold of old Chinese
or Japanese silk then one is in luck. as
this fantastic product of oriental needles
is one of the best touches that can be
shown on a white gown.
Blouses in Eyelet Work.
Whenever eyelet embroidery comes into
fashion for gowns ii is used at once for
hIouseS gives the manufacturers a