New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-12
A HORSEBACK TOURIST
A Leisurely View of Old Cali
fornia from South to North.

ICAIJFORNIA COAST TRAILS. \ Horse
back Ride from Mexico To oregon. 10y
j. Smeaton Chase. With illustrations
| from photographs by the author. eNo'
pp. tx 396. The Houghton Miffiin Com
| pany.
California has become one OF the ma
tion's plavgrounds. It is land for
pleasure seekers. In some parts OF
this country, notably in the Middle
West going to California is all inc
rage. Everybody is doing II, as the
song SAYS. Many people go perlodi-
cally. and not few go that are not
again seen by the eye of Eastern man.
These last write back extravagant let
ters from time to time, with the result
Of DESTROYING the peace of mind Of their
former neighbors who hesitate abou-
selling out their business and So.nS
along, too. But not many go IN the
fashion of the author of "Californla
Coast Trails" He has written back
a most tempting travel book. indeed
II is the story of two journeys on
| horseback. in the course of when the
author covered practically the entlre
coast line of California. Sometimes his
road Law along the beach, in company
with the railroad. faded passengers
| in passing trains turned eyes OF envy
I $50 he, no doubt rightly, thoughO upon
| him as he rode eisurely along on his
Illuminating travels. In his serene Jour
ney he willingly foreSoes the sight oil
! the galaxy of seashore pleasure towns,
(which in the cxuberant metaphor or
real estate circulars are flung like a
| tribute of gems at the feet of imperial
Los Angeles" His purpose has led
| him much into out-of the-way dis
tricts And his whole purpose was TO
look about him at his ease. "as tourists
stroll about Paris or London
I His object was to view AT his leisure
this country, "once Of such vast quics-
cence. now Of such spectacular
changes" Especially he wished TO see
what he could "of its less commonplace
aspects before they should have finally
passed away: the Older manner OF NE
in the land: the ranch houses Of ante
Gringo days; the Franciscan Missions.
relics of the era OF the padre and the
don. the large slow life Of the sheep
and cattle ranges, and whatever else
we could find lying becalmed In IN"
backwaters Of the hurrying stream oi
Progress" Humble things please him
best. Modest cottages. the dwellings
of the rustic poor with their demo-
cratic marigolds and nasturtiums, a'c
more charming TO his sympathies tnan
more elaborate and self-consclous
! things. Flower covered porches ana
| balconies. the golden landscape flick
ering under an ardent sun" the hub
bub of birds that greet the morning,
the "thoughtful moonlight lingering
! upon crumbling Spanish walls. TIE
heavy stumbling fight OF q buZZard
swinging slowly i'm the sky" a pen
sive pelican" the Gaze OF Legendary
hermit. the human nature OF some
humble host for the night, the quaint
lettering over an old mansion doorway.
! the venerable missions such are the
things that sing 10 the peaceful, beauty
| loving. well stored and quietly humor-
Gus mind Of our care-free. picknicking
traveller.
He visits old towns, observes qua.r
relics talks with a Marblehead skipper
Of bygone whaling days. pays rever-
ence TO the literary shrines OF Califor-
MIA. studies the klamath Indians,
views the Bay of San Francisco, exam
ines the soil Of different localities. has
an adventure with quicksand, spends a
night at a lighthouse, communes with
the moods of the sea, considers the
humors Of fence advertising, debates
with his horse Chino, falls in with a
| iocund cavalier, admires superb trees.
consorts with friendly Mexicans, meets
Robinson Crusoe and does and sees
altogether, more interesting things
than we could even catalogue within
the limits of this review. The things
he sees In California continually re-
mind him, too, Of other things. Of the
! heatner or scotland, OF lne brittany
| coast And he says:
| Such resembances are full Of pleasure
| they keep ones thoughts unstagnant and
| ever on the wing; and. better yet. they
reach down and stir sometimes those sub
J TEST strings of all. that vibrate in the
dark quiet chamber of the mind where
lies the well OF tears keeping that un-
| stagnant, too
Mr.. Chase has an amiable, sunny
disposition. considerable talent as
writer, and an uncommon instinct for
description. And one comes refreshed
as though returned from a vacation,
from his book of travel. Now this way
OF spending the night is something like
what the doctor ordered: 1T was
highly pleasant" says Mr.. Chase, lat
evening to lie in our blankets listening
for an hour 10 the surf growing like
a friendly watchdog in our extensive
backyard: and TO wake, after night
of Industrious oblivion, TO feel the sea
| fog brushing our faces with its cool,