davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1913-10-31
FASHION NOTES

A IL sorts Of fascinating necR-r
"A pieces and mufs arc being
4 = shown In anticipation of CON-
ing events. Just as many OF
fancy silk, velvet and other ma
terials combined with fur are 60 be
seen as those composed entirely Of fur
and the fact that the lesser furs have
been dyed and treated to resemble the
better ones is unusually interesting
while combinations of skins make the
rule for the more elaborate pieces.
Among the achievements Of the fur
rier's art must be mentioned squirrel
dyed to closely resemble chinchilla.
An interesting set exhibited by one Of
our leading dealers consists of a neck
piece Of this skin with rather oddly
shaped muff and one end of the
scarf is finished with a loop Of gray
taffeta ribbon and one gray fox's tail
while the muf is drawn together to a
point and similarly treated. Material
combined with fur is really a rage
Chiffon. velvet, satin are all being
used while the skins of the smaller
creatures are employed as trimming
in various ways. Pure white ermins
without tails makes a feature Of pre-
vailing STYLES. A handsome scarf and
muff are made Of black fox, an entire
skin for each, while around the necs
edge Of the scarf is a complete skin OF
erminc fitting closely to the front. ane
each end Of the muif is finished with q
border Of these white skins. Heads
tails and paws. all are to be found
Mole skin is to be extensively used ftf
coats and fox collars are greatly iiks
in combination thereqitb
Evening journal., 1913-10-31

IN the numerous letters that 10
ceive daily there are two questions
that are asked me more often than
others. They are these: IT'S It hard
to make a draped skirt ?" and "Does
draped skirt hang well?" So to thosa
Of you who have written me thus and
to those Of you who in fear and tremb-
ling attempt the making Of a draped
skirt / am going 20 explain hcw to
make one In this lesson. III allay
your fears at the beginning. A daped
skirt Is easy TO make and hangs per
fcctly when you have good pattern.
follow the directions closely and do
your work well.
Now we'ii make oneL
Although skirts are sold BY wafst
measurements, when ordering or
buying a pattern it Is best to give
the hip Measurement also. Should
your hips be little out Of proportion
in accurate measurment to your waist
size-say they are a trihe large-it is
best TO get a pattern that fits your
hips perfectly, for it Is simple matter
to take In the pattern to your waist
size. Whereas II you should Just give
your waist measurement and your
hips are large In proportion. Of courss
you would have to alter the pattern
over the hips, to the lower edge Of tho
slsirt--a much more difficult task. So
don't forget to give both the waist
and the hip measurements for all skirt
patterns.
This skirt IN medium size requires
four and one-half yards Of twenty
seven or thirty-six inch width material
or two and three-fourths yards, forty
four inches wide, The skirt measures
one yard and fourteen inches at the
lower edge.
There is just one piece In this skirt
half the skirt, you know.
To prepare the material for cuttlng
the skirt. fold il lengthwise. Lay the
pattern on the material with the edge
marked BY triple crosses (which
is the center Of the back) OF
the fold. Forty-four inch materia
has been used in illustrating the slSir
here. Diagram No. shows how tn
pattern is laid on the material. Th
straight line extending from the tol
Of the skirt to the lower edge Indicate
where the seam occurs in serving th'
widths together. Cut the material
straight across the top Of the pattern.
Then cut the lower edge, allowing
thrce-eighths Of an inch for a facing
seam. Turn back the pattern, lay
the lengthwise fold Of the remaining
material on the seivage edge Of the first
Evening journal., 1913-10-31

n EsIGN for embroidering the
ends Of a guest towel, fifteen
IL inches in width.
Scailops for two ends and flower
design for one end are given.
The scalloped edges are to be padded
and buttonholed. The flowers and
leaves can be worked either solidiy or
as eyelets. The stems are to be out
lined.
To'pad the scallops work chain stitch
between the lines, neaver at the center
and lighter at the points; or cut a skein
Of thread and apply two or more strands
over the center Of the stamped pat
tern, keeping within the lines, tack
here and there in couching style, gath
ering the threads closely at each point
Of the scallops. then buttonhole closely
over the foundation. Make solid en-
broidery by first Garning backward
and forward over the stamped figure
and then cover closely with over and
over stitches. working in the opposite
Evening journal., 1913-10-31

Turn the front edges under on snnan
pertorations for hens. Form three
baoSward-turnins plaits at each side
OF the front and three forward-turninr
plaits at each dde Of tho back, bv
folding the material on the line Of
single pedoratlons and tapping 10
double perforations. See Diagram No,
2. Take up the dart on each hip b-v
bringing corresponding lines ofperfona-
tons together. Lap the right sids Of
the skirt over the left with the. lsrvs
pertontions meeting.
For the high waistiine arrangesrtSa
edge over webbing one and one-haif
inches vida. For tho normal waisb-
line cut the sldrt of three-eiehths. Of
an inch above the lins Of. perfuratlons
near the upper edge.
Lay the belt pattern on cao-epsy-
wise fold Of the material wifh.thnsf.---A
crosses on the fold. Eoen tho
belt toths skirt, centcrbacAs together,
the large perforations on the belt reach
to the center front Cio@ the sldrt
With buttons and buttonhUlea tor tia
entire length or attach to tho desho.f
depth and finish fortbe openineabova.
Should you uialo the shirt Of mas
rower-Width materials be sure 10
arrange your seams so that they Win
come ON the sides By that mean
that the fold Of any width material
should In the-center back.
Evening journal., 1913-10-31

~ ESIGN for enbroidering or
braidins laundry bag
- The letters are TO be worked
solidly or in outline. Tie con-
ventional design can be used for
couching. for coronation or other
braid or for outline.
To apply any fat braid. make a
slight slit in the goods at some point
in the pattern, insert the end Of the
braid, sew fast to the under side then
follow the design. sewing by hand or
machine. To apply coronation braid,
take a stitch or two over each narrow
space OF the b-aid and a few short
Evening journal., 1913-10-31
65s. Design for embroideriHg
a torel fifteen inches
in zgidfb.

direction from the padding. To out
line. take short stitches, keep the needle
toward the right and work upward
To make the flowers and leaves as
eyelets, FIRST run a thread round the
stamped figure, then cut a slight slit
lensthwise, and then crosswise Of the
long openings, pubs back the material.
onthe wrong side and work closely over
and over.
Use embroidery cotton in weight
sdapted to the material
Evening journal., 1913-10-31


stitches from underneath. through
the thick portions between to hold it
firn Is.
To couch, apply the cord over the
design and hold to position With but
ton-hole stitches taken at short inter-
walls.
To make the letters Of solid embroid-
cry. pad in the same way by darning
and then cover closely with over and
over stitches worked in the oppositS
direction from the padding.
To outline. take short stitches, keep
ing the needle toward the right. and
work upward.
Evening journal., 1913-10-31

.ENHE present might almost be
called a feature season There
are so many new notes TO be
found, so many fabrics that are all its
own and so many treatments that are
quite novel. The waistcoat idea alone
is an important one and means almost
limitless possibilities. For the practical
tailored suit that is made for the cooler
weather it takes the form Of vest por-
tons attached to the lining at the
front, but the separate waistcoat is
being much worn and is too important
TO be overlooked. Sometimes it takes
the severe form familiar in the mans
costume and again it is slightly full and
more feminine in effect. For its
making are used the richest and hand
soonest materials. the lowered velvets
that show big, stunning designs, the
wonderful silks in broche effects and
Oriental embroideries.
For the street costume will be used
rough finished fabrics, everything with
avelvet surface and a great many fancy
materials, such as plaid silks, plaid
wools, MORE effects and the like. Some
touch Of bright color must be found If
the costume is to be up-to-date, and
the waistcoat, the collar and the cuffs
are utilized fos this purpose.
NEVER within present memories at
IN least have We had such wonder
ful opportunity for beauty in
fashionable costumes on the one hand
and such strange developments on the
other. Really smart gowns, those
turned out by the best dressmakers
arc a delight. The color effects are
wonderful and the materials are con-
trasted in a way TO enhance greatly
the beauty Of each one. As matter
Of course, one sees exsggerations now
and then but, for the most part, the
unfortunate exhibition are the result
Evening journal., 1913-10-31
PROBLEMS IN DRESSMAKINC
HOW TO MAKE A DRAPED SKIRT
EDITORS NOTE

EDITORS NOTE
Any question: peytuirfng 10 Ms lessou DAas
sou may lDish 10 ask other questions on general
dress dr dressndkiHg problems. Mcy Manton tyiR
gladly onssDcr il you segd stopsbc5 sslE
addressed erueIobe 10 Miss May Manlon.
100 W. 3znd ST., New York Civ
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1913-10-17
In the Sunday School Class
SENIOR BEREAN LESSON.

should be impregnable and extensive.
The Amalekites" We're a nomadic race
who dwelt in the deserts to the south
of Palestine. The Hittites" were a
non-Semitic people whose original
was in Cappadocia northeast Of
SYRIA, but they had established them
selves at Carchemish and Klamath, in
the north. and We're Il powerful people.
and We're prominent in ancient his
tory from Il. G. 1900 to r. G. 100 and
even later. "fhe Jebusites" were Il
small tribe settled in Jerusalem and
immediate vicinity. "Amorites' were
the natives of Canaan living in the
highlands. west Of the Jordan and in
the north of Palestine. ''Canaanites"
We're the natives of the western low.
lands, and Palestine was named after
them the and of Canaan.
Verses 3O-33.-CourageOus men.
Ten OF the men gave Il graphic de,
s%cription Of the country. but it was a
superficial estimate. Indeed. they eX-
aggerated some things and gave a
false impression OF the situation.
They are stronger than We" What
short memories these men had to have
forgotten Jehovah. who had performed
such wondrous works for them and
who surely would not forsake them
just as they We're about to enter on
their heritage! "A land that eatcth
up the 1nha bitantS." 1t was doubtless
true that parts of the country We're SC
infertile that it could hardly furnish!
avian q hor1 c,Icirtoran To thn ,,nn,,ln
/ But this was a gross misrepresenta.
ton. and one wonders how they could
harmonize their statements when the
rich fruits Of the land We're right he-
fore them. Men of great stature"
1t was nc doubt true that the Israel
ties We're Il people of small build and
We're undeveloped physically. but they
We're talking ~extravagantly and reck-
lessly when they compared themselves
to "grasshoppers' in the presence ct
the giant ''sonS of Anak." who We're
tall and lanky. There We're two who
spoke out in emphatic contradiction OF
these perverted statements. They
We're Caleb and Joshua. who remind,
ed them that if they are true to Je-
hovah he will take delight in them
and they will be helped to possess the
~'exceeding good land" (Num. xiv. 90.
"Stilled the people verse 3O). who
had become panic stricken IS a result
Of the discouraging report xiv. l-3).
LET us go up at once Caleb was sc
confident Of success that he urged
them to undertake an immediate cam.
paign Of conquest. But the voice of
the deluded majority prevailed. with
unfortunate results,
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1913-10-17
Golden TeXt.-If God is for us, who
is against us? (Rom. viii. 30

Verses 1-3.-Representative men.
Moses certainly was the ac-
knowledged leader of the people. but
he could not do all the work himself,
and we have seen how he divided the
responsibility with others QessOn ID.
The secret of effective organization is
to apportion the work among many
and not have it done by just a few.
y Il II SEARCH the land of Canaan
These men We're to make q careful
study Of conditions. They We're to be
eyes and ears for the people. The next
step in the journey would largely de-
pend on what they said. Every one
a ruler among Them This position
Of honor and responsibility was con-
ferred on men of high standing, whose
worth had been tested and who We're
selected from each of the tribes. THE
wilderness Of Parun." We cannot say
definitely from which point the spies
were dispatched. The fact that they
returned to Kadesh Verse 90 implies
that the camp OF the lsraelites was in
| this region. farther north. The names
Of the men are given in verses 4-16.
but nothing is known Of any OF them,
with the exception Of ale OF the
tribe of Judah and Joshua Of the tribe
Of Ephraim (verses 6 and 8.
Verses 25-29.-Fearful men.
The instructions that We're given
them were very clear. They We're to
go by way OF the south land and enter
Palestine from its southern border,
then ascend the mountain steppes in
the Neseb and make a careful survey
Of the cities and the people who dwelt
in them, all the way up as far as the
narrow pass Of Klamath between the
mountains Of Lebanon and Hermon in
the extreme north. Full details of
their extended itinerary of forty
days are not given. but they visited
Hebron, which was inhabited by the
long necke1 .Anakiln. and they brought
back clusters of grapes from the valley
Of Eshcol and also pomegranates and
figs as proof of it's fertility. "Ka-
desh'' is about fifty miles south OF
Beersheba and is still regarded sacred
because of its spring. which gushes
out Of a rock. surely it flow
eth with milk and honey" This is a
igurative description Of the eXtraordi'
nary fertility Of the healthy land
They further pointed to the fruits that
they had brought. The people are
strong" They should surely not have
expected to meet pygmies IN such
prosperous country. THE cities art
walled" 1t was natural that they
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1913-10-17

The idea of a historical pageant orig
mated four years before during found.
ers' week, when an elaborate street
cavalcade was held. 1t was so sue
cessful that a permanent historical
pageant association was formed. and
it was decided to hold a historical
pageant every four years.
Originator of the Modern Pageant.
The modern pageant was practically
invented by Louis n. Parker when he
gave his pageant at ~Sherborne, Eng
land, in 1905. The modern pageant
has no connection whatsoever with
the medieval pageant. though some
eminent and scholarly people have
tried to prove the contrary. Mr.. Par
ker favored the cOntemporaneOusly un-
used word pageant" as against "folk
play" SO he called his Sherborne cele-
bration a pageant. That is the whole
truth Of the connection Of the modern
pageant with the medieval pageant.
Mr.. Parker's pageants We're all his
tOrical and brought down the episodes
to a period in the past about which
there was no dispute. The feeling was
that to bring the pageant drama down
to the present was simply to stir up
controversy. In this particular the
American pa%geants, some of them at
least, have shown a tendency to go
beyond the father of modern pageant
ry, and there is one American pageant
master who believes that the chief
value of the modern pageant lies in
the dramatizing Of tNe present and,
by implication. suggestion or predic-
ton. of the future. There are several
who feel that the opportunity provided
by the pageant of dealing dramatically
with present life and current public
problems is its justification and the
assurance Of its ~per1nanency.
First Pageant In This Country.
In America the first pageant was
the pageant of education, produced by
the Boston normal school in 1903 un
der the direction Of Miss Lolita A
Clark. 1t was quickly followed by the
tercentenary pageant Of Quebec under
Frank I~.ascelles, the English pageant
master. and by the pageant Of the
renaissance. produced by the Chicago
art institute under the direction O,
Thomas Wood Stevens. Others fol
lowed in steadily increasing numbe
variety.
In America the word pageant" GOV
ers Il wide and as yet unlimited fielt
of new dramatic and semidramati,
forms. In England the word is under
stood to mean distinctly and only tn
l historic pageant Of the Parker type.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1913-10-17

historical events in the life Of the
town-its first settlement, when it was
a part Of Stamford, when it was sep
arated as a town all by itself and
present day scenes-were portrayed.
Particularly effective was the repro
duction Of the settlement scene and a
realistic incident Of the Revolution.
The British We're seen crossing Long
Island sound to capture the minister
Of Darien. the Rev. Moses Mather, and
the men of his parish.
PhiIadeIphia's Great Pageant.
The weeks historical pageant at
Paramount park. Philadelphia, in Octo-
Der Of last year was a notable affair
Of the kind. Indeed, it was claimed
that 1T was the greatest spectacle of
its kind eve produced in this country.
1t was divided into eight episodes,
composed of one or more scenes The
opening act was the prologue and the
closing act the epilogue. This made
nine big acts. Probably the most thrill
ing features Of the pageant We're the
"MeschianZa," which is 4 romantic
fete. and the Battle of Germantown"
The word "meschianZa' comes from
the Italian and was selected. according
to Major Andre, because the fete was
made up Of a number of entertain
ments." The fete was given May IS,
ITS, in honor Of Sir William Howe.
who had vainly tried to defeat the
American forces for three years. and
in consequence was recalled. How
ever, Howe was beloved by his officers
and men. and they decided to give him
the greatest celebration ever held any
where. The m~eschianza was the re-
suit.
The battle Of Germantown was
thrilling and melodramatic. This bat
tie was fought along the Germantown
road and in the fields and farms sur
rounding the famous Chew house.
Descendants Of the Chew family in
spected the house. which represented
the original II in the pantOmimic
battle. and expressed amaZement ut
the close resemblance between the
two.
In the prologue. which showed the
early conflicts of the Indians. English
Swedes and Dutch along the Delaware
river. the Indians We're represented by
their own kin. These early conflicts
were described in thrilling battles annie
~blOckhOuses and ~stockadeS.
The arrival of William Penn in tn
"Welcome and the Founding Of Phila
delphia In 1862" composed the frs
scene of episode ]. The second scene
Of the same episode described his sec
ond coming to Philadelphia in 1899.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1913-10-17

Photo by American Press Association.
Bud Goodwin. the Swimmer, Who Has
Marvellous Powers of Endurance.
Australian crawl stroke for long dis
tances. Most swimmers find that 100
yards of this stroke is all they can
stand.
Fernand .Altimani. the champion 1tal-
ian walker, who recently beat Larner's
hour walking record by nine meters
has set up new figures ut Milan.
During the sixty minute he covered
the distance Of IL kilometerS 403 me-
ters. or s miles 1913 yards l foot g
inches. intermediate records We're also
beaten. Larner's the English cham
pion's, record was 5 miles 43S yards,
made at Stamford Bridge. England.
Sept. 80. 1905.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1913-10-17
Spectacular Civic Celebrations
Depicting Events of Local His
toricaI Interest Becoming
More Frequent 0rigin
of the Idea.

and pick out the salient and
most interesting events which
have occurred during the
period Of its existence and then have
a pageant. Everybody is having pag-
eants nowadays. Every year in ev-
cry section Of this country the idea is
growing in popularity. The first resi-
the scene of a battle, the birthplace of
a soldier or statesman-anything, in
fact, with local historical value is
seized upon and nodded into a preten-
tious spectacle, in which all the town,
or a great part Of it, participates. Pag-
celebration in England for some years
now, but are comparatively new here
80 new that the outlining Of plans
to be carried out usually is left in the
hands Of experts.
So far pageants have been toward
the creation of a fine and genuine form
Of dramatic art. showing in all it's pic
turesQueness and glory the early life
Of America such as art and drama
never before offered. Pageantry has
become a spectacular triumph even in
the few years since it was introduced
here.
A Remedy For Many Ills.
A strong and efficient organization
wishes to make its annual report and
wants its supporters to give real at
tenuon to 1t. So it represents that re-
port in the form Of a pageant. A
town has suffered in it's community in
tegrtty from the too blunt figures of a
budget exhibit. 1t turns to the pag-
cant. An active propaganda wishes
to blazon its principles abroad and win
adherents to its u 1t produces a
pageant. An academy resolves to get
down to the task Of working IL a real
education for the young people that
come to its doors. 1t starts the work
with a pageant. An agricultural tow
makes up it's mind to overcome condi.
tons which go to constitute the rura,
problem. 1t sets before itself the vi.
sion Of its purpose in the form of q
pageant and wins out. A city finds
its reputation assailed by the dishon
esty OF an official. Citizens declare foi
q pageant to expose the bad spots iI
their government and appeal for I
town free from graft.
The n big thing essential above al
else to make the pageant successful is
enthusiasm. Everybody in the tow
should have a hand in it in one way
or another. A recent example Of civic
pride was afforded by a pageant give,
at Darien, Conn. About 1000 person:
participated in it. The place chosen
for Darien's big show was hear Lon;
Island sound, an ideal spot for such al
event. A broad, grassy expanse wa
used for the main events. Episodes 0
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1913-10-17

The itinerary Of the worlds baseball
tour Of the New York Giants and the
Chicago White SOX. as arranged by
Manager p. Andersen of the Chautau-
qua tours. is as follows:
Nov. 10, Vancouver; Dec. 3, Yoko-
hama (side trip to Eokyo); Dec. 4,
Kobe: Dec. 6. Nagasaki: Dec. 8. Shang-
hal; Dec. Q, Shanghai: Dec. II. Hong
kong; Dec. II. Hongkong: Dec. IA. Ma
Mia; Dec. Il, Manila; Jan. l, Bris-
bane; Jan. 3. Sydney; Jan. 4. Sydney:
Jan. 3, Sydney; Jan. G. Melbourne:
Jan. I, Melbourne: Jan. s. MelbOurne:
Jan. 9. Adelaide: Jan. 10. Adelaide;
Jan. ID, Fremantle: Jan. II. Fremantle;
Jan. %, Colombo: Feb. l, Port Said;
Feb. l. Cairo; Feb. .. Cairo: Feb. 8. CAT
70; Feb. 4, Alexandria,: Feb. I, Naples;
Feb. 8. Rome: Feb. 3. Rome: Feb. 10.
Florence; Feb. IL. Milan: Feb. II. Mon
te Carlo: Feb. Is. Nice: Feb. IA. Mar
settles; Feb. Il. Paris: Feb. 1G. Paris;
10. Berlin: Feb. 20. Amsterdam; Feb.
81. London: Feb. -. London: Feb. %.
London; Feb. -. E%dinburgh: Feb. %.
Edinburgh; Feb. %. Glasgow; Feb. -.
Dublin: Feb. 2S. Queenstown; March
1, Queenstown; March 6. New York.
John b. Miller. chairman Of the
Pacific coast section Of the American
Polo association. plans to stage Il
worldwide competition during the 1915
exposition in San Francisco.
He hopes to construct a magnificent
turf polo field within the grounds of
the exposition and invite England. In
dia, Hawaii. Argentine Republic, Bra
iii and Australia. in addition to the
American pOloists.
The International Athletic fedora
ton has finished all the business con-
templated. with the exception OF draft
ing rules for international competi-
tons, Il portion Of those regulations
being left for completion by the Paris
congress to be held in 1914.
The committees suggestions elimi-
| mating the standing high and standing
broad jumps. limiting shot putting and
javelin and discus throwing with the
best hand only, inserting the fifty-siN
! pound weight and 400 meter hurdles