The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1913-04-20
Bv MARGARET WADE.

By MARGARET WADE.
Now that the designers. the importers
and each patrons favorite modist on thi
side of the Atlantic have united i'm of
fering the latest and smartest modes, !
is merely a question of selection to IS
tablish the fashions for the spring ant
summer of 1913.
For il is the, women who wear tn,
Paris-made gowns. and their modified re
productions of the home market that af
ter all decide the fashions. No model i:
success unless worn by some smar
maid and matron and worn well. Tha
is, at the right time and in the righ
place.
In the older capitals of the world there
are always acknowledged leaders in
fashion, as in all other conditions of so.
ciety, which is one reason that freak
fashions find little recognition in Paris
London, or any of the lesser European
cities.
In New York. Chicago. San Francisco
and various intermediate points where
fashionab BILE modists and ladies' tailors dc
a thriving business, there is no leader
ship in dress, for the average American
woman feels herself entirely competent
TO make her own selections with only
her individual taste and her bank &C
count TO influence her choice. In thus
her right to the pursuit OF happiness
lies the danger to the lady, but the grand
opportunity to the modist.
For the woman who demands some
thing new, with the arrival of every
ocean liner the couturiers are presenting
q succession of coats, skirts, blouses,
hats, and wraps, each differing from its
predecessors in some light detail. with
out discounting in the least the earlier
importa tons.
Just as each of the 200 color tones to
be met in a single season finds its
origin in one of the seven primary COL
ors SO do all truly smart and usually
beautiful fashions find their inspiration
in some of the ancient figures of Greek
or Roman statuary, or the canvases of
the old masters, VINO have given us not
only lines of drapery, but harmony of
hues unsurpassed by any modern de-
signer of clothes.
The present-day artist in clothes is,
however. quite worthy Of that name, be
il applied in masculine or feminine form,
for it is i'm the application of old, we'll
established truths the present day de-
mands that We owe the best of the
spring styles.
Washington. unlike the more COM
land. is inclined to follow a well-defined
leadership in dress as in manners Hence
the first smart wedding of the post-Lent-
en- season, with the handsome Dorothy
Gardner Williams as its central figure,
pointed the way for many observers OF
the accepted modes
Miss Williams, or to give her her pres
ent name, Mrs. Monroe Eyre Pinckard.
may be credited with having established
the new color scheme of blue and violet
in the costuming of her bridal attend
ants and establishing the proud pre-
eminence of the plain white satin we'd
ding gown in her own costume
This color harmony is quite new this
season, and while occasionally seen in
millinery, was until Tuesday untried in
dress. Miss Louise HELEN, the Misses
Julia and Alys Meyer, Miss Katharine
jennings Miss Feroline Perkins, Miss
Amy Talbot, and Miss Faith Simpkins,
who made up this unusually attractive
bridal party, were all gowned alike. satin
and chiffon Paquin models, showing the
latest marks of this famous house. The
satin underskirts, white or the faintest
mauve, were narrow and unslashed, with
the blue chiffon drapery showing a con-
siderable fullness from waist to hem.
This drapery fell ike ali ungathered pa
mer leaving a narrow, plain front of the
yelled satin, then fell in a demi-train. |
TO retain the narrow line about the |
ankles without in the least restricting |
he movements of the wearers, the satin |
foundation skirts were run with several |
BOWS of inch-wide velvet ribbon. held by |
severe little bows directly in front. The |
'ibbon was of a Chinese blue, clouded |
oy the OVERHEAD chiffon.
The Paquin idea was also expressed |
IN the charming girlish surplice bodice |
with its V back and front filled by fine, |
delicate cream lace. The normal waist !
inc was well defined. but unmarked by |
lash or gir1le. The pronounced touch of |
purple was given by the very large but |
,qually graceful clusters of wisteria |
blossoms carried by each maid. The |
bouquets were tied with the light blue |
ule. The hats were just as modish as |
he gowns, being large, natural colored !
eghorns, with the crowns draped in two
oned chiffon or tulle, encircled by broad |
Hue ribbon tied in loose but not very
arge bows in the back. The combina-
ion in the hats, as in the gowns. was
most delicate, which is the secret of its
success. The unwise juxtaposition of
colors being one of the dam
,ers of the present mode. it is the part
f wisdom for the home dressmaker TO
void any original designs.
Color and material more than the hans
IF skirt or shape of sleeve are the
lall marks of the present season, as fully
proven i'm any fashionable feminine conf
)any. The reason. for there is always
reason, even in the fashions, is that
he majority of women really like the
narrow skirt, the draped surplice bodice.
ne cut in sleeve, the separate blouse,
md a lot of other familiar features which
he designers would displace if they
ould. Consequently, the something
lew' comes in material, with all the gain
o the manufacturers first, then to the
Importers.
Brocade crepe is one of the novelties
hat has found ready acceptance in
smart wardrobes |,
Mrs. Matthew T. Scott opened the an
lual session of the Daughters of the
american Revolution in a gown OF this