Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1913-05-18
FADS AND
Fashions |
ev Florence Fairbanks.

cate problems, chief among them the
question as to the style Of frock it
would be best for them TO choose.
1t may be said that skirts Of wash
material are either plain, %founced, or
with TUNES. Some attempts have
been made to produce draDed skirts
in the tub frOckS, nut the results are
singularly unattractive in most cases.
II they do not please before the
dress is washed and irOned, what can
be expected OF them after they have.
been submitted to those always dis
turbing prOcesses? The tunic is cap.
able OF an almost infinite variety of
treatment, and 1t makes possible the
general silhouette required by fash.
ion. For the lighter materials it is
lnquestionably the best idea on which
10 work. In the case OF the slight
and girlish figure. the founced skirt
is an attractive rival Ct the tunic. In
the heavier materials. such as linens,
r%atincs, and their allies, the plain
skirt IS best for more reasons than
one. But in these cases the plainne3s
can be broken by a deceptive treat
ment of tapping seams which give the
main lines of draped sQkirts without
and undesirable bunchiness.
Collarcttes, or rufus, are being urg-
ed on women by all classes of deal
.ers, and the women are responding
with alacrity. They seem to have
taken most kindly to the full ruching
of malines, tied with a bow of satin
ribbon to match. These are becoming
to some women, and, Of course, are
rather 4 nee. ssity with the present
COllarlcss, or next to cOllarless styles.
Quite practical as an accessory Is
the separate white collar to be worn
with the coat. A few years ago girls
and younger ONE were cmbroider-
ed white collars ver their COZ lap
els, but the present renaissance OF
the fashion is in a different form.
The collars now worn are much more
attractive and elaborate. They come
IN ali the notifications of the square
or rounded out and very often end in
the long rufle or plrating which is
so great a fad just now. Others ar2
IN the shape OF Il mOu.ued iichu. They
are both becoming and practical, a..
they protect the waist underneath,
especially with a collarless blouse
they are almost necessary. Otherwise
the hard line of the coat is very try
ing, both in appearance and in feel
ing. - -.
Flills Of the most engaging charm
are the conspicuous feature OF the
separate blouses which have appear.
ed in Il perfect Hood of grace and
beauty. Almost every blouse display
ed in the numerous shops and fash.
ion establishments In New York has
some kind Of frill in its makeup. Yet,
the variety in the forms of these
frills is so great that they do not i'm
press n as being too common.
Handsome models are, of course,
quite expensive. but a woman clever
with the needle can easily make for
herself a charming frill at very small
cost. 90
} The change from the PLAIN French
backs and the plain fronts, with only
II tuck at the shoulder seam, which
have characterized the shirt waists
Of recent. years, to the present styles
is 4 radical one. The latest designs,
especially in the crepe de chine and
the wolfe waists, have deep Jokes,
into which the lower part Is gathered
with considerable fullness. The yoke
runs down In many cases on to the
arm, sometimes even as far as the
elbow, and the sleeve IS gathered in
to it. The yoke and the armhole are
inich0H with n nnrliND ~ tho r~ntn-
rial.
All this is very we'll in theory, but
the average woman, arrayed in M
of these waists, certainly suggests a
meal sack. The. front shirring is all
right. But viewed from the back the
effect Of this arrangement is by no
means always attractive.
Buttons are used extensively at the
present time aid crystal buttons and
those covered with material seem to
be in the lead. The colorcd crystal
buttons are used on many OF the tail.
ored suits, eve those in heavy, dark
materials. But they also ornament
the sheerest of blouses and lingerie
trocks. AS for the covered buttons,
Iioy AiC vi all MINUS. oOIlc are 81
tiny that when they are set in a row
they look, at a little distance,, like an
irregular cord or braid. Others are
Nat and larger than a silver quarter.
Buttons of several different sizes but
of the same material and shape are
used on the same dress. On white
waists OF dresses, trimmed with col.
or, crystal buttons with Il rim of the
same color are scwed on with silk to
match. 80 d.
The ways IN which color is combin-
ed with white in waists and lingerie
frocks are endless and generally most
attractive. Cheruit is to be thanked
for giving us the t1esh-colored net
lining of transparent waists. This
faint. undertone Of rose Is very allur.
ing. One finds it not only in thin
waists but also in wraps and blouses
OF exceedingly white satin.
The fancy for fastening some of the
trimmings to the lining bodice, where
they show through the outer bodice
of net or chiffon or lace, is firmly
rooted. One lovely bodice of white
finely pleated chiffon shows a band
OF cerise ribbon drawn across the
back. under the arms, across the front
and emerging to tie in a loose bow on
the chest. Similarly, ribbon is bound
about the elbow under the chiffon,
on the thick silk under bodice and
energies to tie in a bow on each