Iron County news. [volume] (Hurley, Wis.) 1913-1950, 1913-12-20
COAT
PARIS SENSATION
M;tter of Uncertainty as to
Whether the Style Win Be
Taken Up.
PERSIAN TUNIC WILL STAY
style Became Popular Suddenly and
Is Now the Raee-Pannier Effects
Boon to the Slender Woman
--CIinging Skirt Remains.

\ PARIS.-The revival of the "Houp-
pelande" coat is one Of the sensations
of the winter season in Paris. Wheth-
er this style will become compare
lively permanent or prove a passing
craze remains to be seen.
On this subject the leading Paris
ian dress experts are divided For
myself consider it certain that wide
hemmed coats will become more and
!, more popular. Everything points to
this, writes Claude Cherys in the New
York Sun.
When Poiret first launched the Per
sian tunic every one smiled. Some
smart women adopted it Immediately;
the majority declared it suitable only
for fancy dress balls. For several
months the Persian, or stiffened, tunic
remained in the balance. 1t was worn,
l. certainly but it was not accepted ex-
cept for special occasions by really
chick women. Then quite suddenly
the Persian tunic outline became the
rage. Alarmists declared that we
were In for a season of hoped skirts
but these good souls were as usual
wrong. Hoped skirts are still in the
future, but hoped coats and tunics
!. are an actual fashion.
Naturally Good Dressers.
The great couturiers of the Rue de
la Paix may find it an easy matter to
force their ideas and opinions upon
foreign buyers and foreign elegantes
and under the word foreign"
place all those who are not French
but when they come to deal with the
eclectic Parisiennes they can only de-
sign and suggest and-wait! Such
and such a style may, or may not,
catch on in the great world 1t seems
as though it were all a matter of
chance; in reality it is matter of cul
tured taste.
The Parisiennes are naturally good
dressers. Everything connected with
the toilette is to them almost sacred.
They discuss their own possibilities
I. and their own individual tastes with
their chosen dressmakers, just as two
painters might discuss the possibili-
ties of an embryo picture. ! do not
hesitate to say that no Partisan dress
maker OF tailor is ever unpleasantly
autocratic with his or her Partisan
clients. 1t is a case of artist meeting
J artist
This being the case, and undoubted-
ly it is so, it can be easily understood
that though a very remarkable style,
like the houppelande coat. might be
worn on certain occasions by special
women it might not easily become the
fashion from the Partisan point of
view. But there are circumstances
connected with this style which CON
vince me that it viii become really
popular and in the right circles.
HouppeIande Models.
1t is the logical outcome of the Per
sian tunic; and the Parisiennes are at
heart very logical. They glide from
one fashion to another in a perfectly
natural way. People are fond of say
ing that French women are always
changing their fashions. but this is
not really the case. They glide from
one outline to another in a perfectly
natural way, as in the present case.
First the Persian tunic with stiffened
hem, then the houppelande coat
Some of the more eccentric houppe-
lande models are lavishly trimmed
with frills of taffeta or velvet and with
bands of sable. Some of these coats
are exceedingly wide at the hem, and
all OF them are so arranged that they
stand away from the figure below the
hips
The genuine houppelande coat of
olden days was rather shorter than
the models now being shown in our
best ateliers. They also were elabo-
rately trimmed with frills and ruch-
ings and finished off with wide
sleeves. 1t is a strangely picturesque
fashion, but one which is proving
very becoming to certain types of
women.
One of the leading Partisan dress
makers has recently made a speciality
OF the pannier style of tunic, and when
skllfully manipulated it is charming
For the Slender Woman.
The material is fashioned into
loose tunic in the first instance and
then the supple stuff is caught up in
pannier fashion, giving it a puffy eff
feet over the hips To slender wom-
en- this style is admirable. 1t gives
an unexpected outline, and when com
oIned with clinging skirt it is really
attractive. Nowadays all the fuHness
OF dresses and coats alike is coDoen-
trated in the direction of the hips, or
Just below them.
Skirts are apparently as clinging as
a ever, even though much more materi-
al Is put into them, and corsages are
arranged in fat, dropping folds; but
n rom the hips to the knees. plaits and
Il Iiounces and puffs are arranged. On
some Of the latest models for evening
gowns tunics appear, which are moth
ng short of ballet dancers skirts.
1 nese curious tunics are, as a rule,
ade Of tulle and one plated founce
s posed over another until the whole