The chronicle=news., 1913-11-14

, orcl suits are unusually attractive
Tho new fabric known by the nam
OF duvetyn. or peou dc pcchc. whic!
Is used extensively for such suits. 1
the sensation OF the season. II give
to the figure n supplcncss that man,
Of the other heavy fabrics deny II. Y
Is warm and yet soft and can be ma
nipmiatcd easily into folds and drap
cry. The colors In Il are good. fol
there Is something about the weave
that gives out. or rather takes In
soft. smoky tones oil sc.d gray. pur-
Pile and green tina, mos, women can
wear.
| In dark green. dark purple. and
deep khaki one sccs the majority o
street suits. PRIu!n uses more ma
rinc blue and deep khaki than any
other house. and she also uses coats
OF silk maltclassc. which some nf the
other houses have dropped altogcth-
or. Whatever the weave or color or
name Of the materials used. they are
all soft. v.iours de iaInc was good
! to look nt. hut II was too heavy Ia
drape. and there wcre many, women
who complained that II dill no, wear
well. II Is too early To say whether
or not duvciyn will mcri, the same
rcproach hut II Is the fraei OF the day
and America probably will be wear
Ing II ms steadily ms Paris when the
cold season begins.
So far there has been no return 10
long coats. except the eompromis.
made by Pnnauin hctwc-n the long
sodci Goa; and the short. fiasin. one.
Young. slim figures will wear
straight 'lttl- coats ihn, have mach
cham II they are we'll made. They
han. loosely from the shoulder. are
roundri below tn" waist at the hack
and til' up In front. They aT" fast
,nci In n straight line Ia tn. neck
aud topped off win, .om" kind al
high. loo~" collar that does not clinE
closely to the neck. The sleeves are
long and usually exaggerated In
shape. They Rrc never conventional.
nor do they start from conventional
afmhoi.s.
II nigh, he said Of all the cioihs-
Of the day that they are comfortable.
They hang from the body irsi-ii of
con1nIng IL: the shoulders are broad
and full. the sleeves arc Immense. the
waists show no idea Of restraint. and
the mavcmcn, Of the skirt at tn"
knees Ia like that nj fsair Of rn,iavc
trousers. The only part 6f the Who'll"
costume where on" mny expect Ia
find discomfort Is In the narrow foot
Hire
has brought oit iars. number os
mail fur wraps. The Kind that l.
newest aud mos, roGucii.h I. like y
vciy small shawl wi'h points not On
Is In the middle Of the back. hut al
10 over ~. hips Fur will hc us"'l
no, only for wrap. bit ALA for 'ri'a-
m.ngs on dresses. Nothing clio can
replace IL. II any woman V"ss~ss.- .
fur coat ar boa that IA worn. or II
she has pieces. no matter of wha,
p.l,ry. now L. her time tn pick ou;
the hest parts. cut them into stripi
and pu; them on her ~in'cr drc.s.
All kinds Of furs are being used 10
adc-n not only the morning tailor
made hut the drc.sy afternoon ans!
diaphHnous evening frock. No fur
u too humble or too luxurious for
>omc purpose.
The smar, pc',s Of tho winter sca'-
IN will he moicskin. broadtIi, steal.
baby caTacni and pony skin. Tho
best liked fur coat models are In
rutaway effects. straight front. or
box -bdouscd. a. the trade terms thtm
And In full models Japanese styles
are much favored. Hut perhaps the
newest wraps are the man,clcttcs.
and they are charnaing,y chic whom
developed In pcl,s. These little wraps
extend n trIfic below the waist linc
a, the hack In rounded fashion. have
k,moro sleeves AMI +, saua'c cut OF
line at the waist In front.
A now and rather peculiar feature
cf the coat Of the scayon u the col
lar. There H. no attempt ut Nt'tnE
In this collar. Ait.r the many Year,
when tho TT Of the collar madc CT
marrcd the garment " is bit start
ing to learnt now tha the collar
should not TT. The hinchicr ant
,iuns,cr the ncckpiccc. the smarter
the wrap II considered al the pres
lcr, time. Natupraliy auch collar
gives a very thickset appearance u
tho hack of tho neck. The new CO.,
lar effect can he produced very cah
u,. d, fur aud n In n singular flcl