Evening star., 1913-10-06
BY ANNE R1TTENHousE.
respondence Of The Star.


PARIS, September q. 1918.
The apron which Cheruit has invented
is very interesting. 1t exploits new
kind of skirt. but SO far the copyists over
here have not gotten hold Of 1t. 1t gives
much fullness just at the spot where we
used to think fullness was superf1uous.
and 1t must be deftly managed or the
effect is awkward.
The foundation skirt is slightly gath
cred or pleated to the waistband, and six
inches below this there is tunic effect
which is made of the same material, is
arranged with gathered heading. and is
literally tied around the skirt with long
ends that are tucked up In some manner
at the back.
1t is the hewest way to deal with the
tunic. Every one else has had ruffics
and pleatings and minaret affairs that
sprung straight out from the waist line
itself. but this apron begins its fullness
below the hips and ends below the knees.
All Of Cheruit's gowns this year have
straps of material, about two inches
wide, that pass over the fullness OF the
upper skirt and serve to hold 1t in place.
The idea is individual with this house,
and 1t is likely that it will be taken up
by those who do not dress with the ma
5ority. It seems to the casual observer
that Cheruit overdoes 1t at times; for
example, she shows one evening gown
this month that gives one a comical ex-
preston Of a Maypole: there is q large
rosette in the middle Of the waist line in
front, and from 1t spring half a dozen or
more streamers OF gold and silver cloth
the fullness Of the skirt and are gathered
up into another rosette in the back. well
toward the knees.
This Is a gown in which the effect is
H. ~ g. H.
away from the middle Of the waist line
and holding the fullness would be all
right, but six on each side are far too
many.
How Tunics Are Held In.
Cheruit has set the example for the
rest of the dressmaking world in holding
In the fullness of the tunic, to which SO
many women object. This is very new
line-thsi full effect from waist to ankle,
and every woman is not able to wear it,
nor is she sure Of managing 1t in the
right way.
She does not object to the gown ON any
figure except her own, but she is wor-
ried about exploiting 1t on herself be-
cause her mirror gives her back sill
houette which Is too surprising to be sat
isfying. The inward curve has been so
ward curve shocks us.
Doucet has invented folded hip yoke
which extends from the waist downward
for six or eight inches; the other dress
makers give the gathers and pleats full
play and allow them to do what they
please. Cheruit avoids the hip yoke or
sash effect, possibly because she is afraid
1t smacks too much Of the overpopular
gypsy sash OF last spring, and therefore
she substitutes the folded bands Of mate
rial to cross the figure and hold In the
tunic.
The woman who has this kind of gown
finds that she can preserve much the
same silhouette Of last year and yet keep
In with the new fashion.
Aprons That Have Slipped.
This new skirt which has come abtIut
within the last few weeks is bit dis
orderly looking for a trim figure. because
1t gives one the impression that an apron
has slipped and is hanging on merely by
the loosest kind of knot at the back.
Nevertheless. 1t is a novelty and It has
quite an air.
. Whether the average dressmRker can
give ta II the sarre ~tvfa thrf Charpff