davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

She has a choice between the rolling
Medici collar. the stately Beau Brum-
NELL, with its white satin Cravat; the
Bernhardt stock, with its top edge flowing
free of the neck and chin, and the h1gh
or low Robespierre. 1t is equally fash
ionable to swathe the neck to the ears
or uncover 1t to the collar bones. They
may be high at the back and dipped
down to the bust in front or 1t may be
cut in v at the back and a square In
front
In the realm Of sleeves there is so much
variety that ones mind becomes confused
at the thought of tabulating the arm
coverings which fashion allows. Some
one cried out for a new sleeve last sum-
mer, and it was like starting a daisy
chain of letters. The dressmaking rooms
were SO flooded with new sleeves that it
took all ones time to learn how to cut
and drape them. There was the wing
sleeve of Worth. the Persian sleeve of
Cabot the sling sleeve of Paquin, the
Egyptian sleeve of Premet, and the bell
sleeve of all the designers. introduced by
the Russian dancers. There are long
sleeves, tight to the wrist; there are
short ones which consist Of nothing but
a bracelet Of tulle below the shoulder
caught with jewel or motif of beads or
brilliants; there are elbow sleeves finished
with fur or marabou or crystals. and
there are old Italian sleeves Of rare lace
that drop from shoulder to wrist show
ing the top of the arm, and then cover
ing the hand with a bell shaped flare
that is edged with fur. A book could be
written about the sleeves of 1912.
BY the way, writing OF the morning
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

~E on envelope the size OF sheet VI
notenaper comes through the mains
NOWADAYS 1t does not necessarily
contain an advertisement or De-
lated calendar. 1t is likely TO De
,,,,a of the very newest stationery
fo, there Ia a fashionable preference that
,ot+ars shall tourney from friend TO 1rieho
,,,itbo,,. a fold or crease. The novelty OIL
.ha ,oree envelopes made a strong appeal
IN Christmas shoppers. and while con-
.or,,ot;ve nersons may be slow to adopt
the fashion, it has much to recon-
mend it to every one except pos'liiel anu
post office employees.
While colors remain in favor for note
paper. nothing can ever supplant the
white or cream white OF fine texture. al
though there is q revival of the fancy
for deckel edges, the clean cut sheets re-
balm the choice Of most fastldious per-
sons, for after all ones stationery should
be distinctive and persons of good taste
like to put the stamp of individuality
upon notes and letters, and so they do
not use novelties Of any sort.
For this reason 1t is a wise idea to Sc
lect something which will last and re-
tain it, This idea of impressing one's
characteristics upon even the least OF
ones possessions is growing more and
more. Therefore If a color has a special
meaning or significance to a woman 1t is
we'll to let even her correspondence sug-
gest it, All the blues are desirable and
so are the browns and grays. Envelopes
with Innings, which are Indispensable
where thin papers are preferred. offer OPP
portunities for attractive effects in color.
The paler shades of blue and gray have
inner envelopes that are darker. while
the tan papers show deep brown Innings.
There Is also a tendency toward the
square shapes, which used to distinguish
social correspondence from business let
tiers. But extremes In size appear to be
the rule and for notes the cards and
small sheets retain their place as useful
where a word or two of invitation or a
brief message is to be written.
All the best handmade papers are
rather heavy this season and many OF
them have fine water lines up and down
and a few little checks are seen. The
smooth surfaces, however. retain their
place in favor. II girl desires to be just
a little different from all who follow sci
| fashions she will have sheets OF extra
length or unusual width, a costly fad but
one that makes an impression. One debu-
tante who has selected bun as her repre-
sentative color, has succeeded in procur-
| ing stationery which Is PECULIARLY attrac'
1 tive, since she has a fancy for small
square sheets and envelopes with pointed
flaps that are long and bear the tinies
initials above her street address in small
| French lettering.
| This growth Of interest in the appear
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
Spring and Swmmer Materials

THE woman of limited means who is
going south may have and should
have this seasons clothes There
is no extravaganza in buying white
clothes in January il they will answer
for June and July. Advance styles are
splendid economy, SO shop now, not alone
for the south. but for the summer.
Sales of spring and summer materials
of all kinds are going on now, and often
the prettiest varieties, especially of inn
ported materials, are sold out early in
the season and impossible To buy later
on. All the large shops which make a
speciality of white goods during the win
ter rival one another in showing the new
est fabrics at especially good values.
Already there are some facts to guide
the shopper. One IS that ratine effects
In cottons for street suits and semi-tai-
lored dresses will be much worn next
summer. Another fact is that lingerie
gown does not now necessarily mean one
of sheer batiste or soft French null, but
it NAV mean a white gown of transparent
French crepe, net gown, or sheer
marquisette. sometimes in plain weave
sometimes in a fancy weave. Color Will
be much used on white suits, sometimes
| around the bottom of the skirt TO simu-
| late the tunic effect, and sometimes II
| the front to suggest a vest. Now Is tn
| time to get the choice designs in silks
and also wash dress fabrics in white
and colored novelties, to be made III
| for spring and summer.
| Crepe de chine, crepe charmeuse, crep
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
Twisted Dates.

CT is surprising the large number of
persons who persist in getting their
dates twisted at this time Of the year,
remarked the secretary Of a large down.
town firm. For 865 days these persons
have been in the habit Of writing the date
1912 and 1t is a hard matter for them to
change.
when the new year replaced the old
many persons resolved that they would
surely write the new date 1913 on all their
correspondence. The resolution was all
right In theory. but 1t was not executed
in fact, judging by the large number Of
letters received by this firm bearing the
1912 date on them. Almost a dozen such
letters have come in today, and some Of
them have been stamped with the date
the day and month correct, but the year
incorrect. The persons using stamps were
not accustomed to changing the year."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

jackets of matelasse there is a new coat
offered to the public which Is really made
OF quilted satin. 1t Is very cleverly done
and is a new method in imitation of the
welted designs which have taken posses
sion of the fabric world this year, and
the jacket itself is white and Is made like
a modified Russian blouse without full
ness at the waist line and slightly cut
away in front. 1t is edged with white
marabou, has a white satin belt and is
worn over a draped skirt OF black char
meuse. The design on II is much like
the one used on the fabric called mate
lasse and 1t is made by machine stitch
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

the high waist line in front. The turban
that goes with this gown is Of plain black
velvet bordered with two inches OF err
mine and holding a bunch of cherries in
front.
The fashion for fruit. however. has by
no means ousted the desire for artificial
flowers, which grow in loneliness and in
variety The shops offer marvellous
assortment of these made of satin. chif-
fon cloth, velvet and various metal
cloths Single flowers and punches or
them are worn on evening gowns, street
gowns top wraps, short coats. muffs and
even on severe morning suits. The wom-
an without flower placed somewhere
about her is rare. Gardenias are wonder
fully we'll made and a single one is used
on the lapel of a plain coat: purple or
chids are lifelike and they are mixed In
with real maidenhair fern and pinned to
an afternoon gown. A long stemmed
satin rose is added to muff and bou-
uuets of sweet peas are pinned into even
ing gowns. These are especially lovely
on frocks Of white lace and are chosen by
debutantes more than any other flower
except small pink roses.
Copyright, 1918, by the Mcclure Newspaper
Syndicate.)
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
Consistent Dressing.

A TALL figure looks well in a long
"A coat, while it dwarfs a short figure.
Those who make dress a fine art should
study all these points. and rebel against
cut-and-dried fashions. girlish type of
woman can wear the cInging draperies
now the mode. Draped skirts need tall
figure to show them to advantage. Stout
and short people must discard Them ana
drapery always needs an artists hand
Stuffs in drapery have to be considered
It is difficult to make heavy fabrics look
we'll. hence mixtures of wool and SILK or
all wool seldom look nice.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
To Fringe. Crepe Paper.

NOW that Valentine day is coming ana
one will be using crepe paper and
tissue paper in decorations let the writer
tell how to fringe both kinds. Fold the
paper several times, then clip it closely
to make very fine fringe. Gather the
paper together and twist the fringe
around in the palm of the hand. This
will crush the fringe into thousands of
little wrinkles so that it will look curled
when the paper is unfolded.
To make rufl1es on plain tissue paper,
fold 1t over a hat pin and push the paper
gently. little at a time, toward the
hat pin head. Unfold 1t, and you have a
double ruff e. Cut 1t along the creased
line. To make a putting to place around
a heart-shaped box, turn a hem on each
side Of the paper and gather over the hat
pin. Paste it carefully to the edges Of
the box.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

z VALENTINE day is coming. IT VIII
" be a nice time to pick up the
broken threads of friendship and
tie them together again. To decorate a
room for party. cut from plain tissue
paper hundreds of red hearts. each about
as large as quarter string them upoh
h,ack thread draw the threads from the
chandelier to the wall molding. and then
arrange the hearts evenly along tiie
strings. Cover electric light pulps win
red shades, which should be wired u
hold them away from the heated GLOBES
Use miniature individual CARDS tor piace
cards and decorate each with smaii
red heart cut from cardboard. ana pig T,,e
each with a silver or gold arrow. lie
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

FRENCH lingerie models are necessa-
rily expensive to buy In this coun-
try. and as a rule the better cuts
are only to be found in the finer, more
deliberately embroidered garments, but
with a good pattern and a slight knowl-
edge of sewing they are easily made.
Such garments should be made Of fine
linen or fine, sheer nainsook with each
seam Joined by entredeux, and the edges
finished by buttonhOled scallop or
narrow lace insertion and edging.
X
To apply lace to an edge of material,
roll the material with the forefinger and
thumb of the right hand, hold the lace
toward you on this edge with the left
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

an effective touch of color to q somber
gown.
ounshades Tor use while motoring ans
pear IN many colors. Those that screw
onto sole leather case, which serves
aiSo as handle, are in demand. They
sell for $40 or SIS. Green hIue n,rnla
ano Drown are chosen to match wells and
dust coats. $3.50
reasonable are the small DERBY.
shaped hats of pressed beaver trimn,sa
with a narrow band of ostrich at the
oase or the crown and dotted at Intervals
with tiny pink roses.
All trains are very narrow lorcE
pointed; because Of their narrowness thev
nave tendency to turn over, SO should
De lined their full length with a con.
trasting color of the material Of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

worn Ss much as they ever were, not in
the exact shape OF last year. but in a style
brought out this season The cutaway
line was the height of fashion and yet
the Russian blouse had its followers as
Well es that straight coat which came
out late In autumn and looked surprising
IL like dressing jacket especially when
1t was made of matelasse and edged
with marabou- 1T gave one a shock TO
see woman entering smart restaurant
wearing white jacket of this figured
fabric, which has something of the APP
pearance of wadded satin, cut off in the
straight line at the hips. fastened up the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
Makimg French Lingerie

hand, and whip on. holding it so that
the lace will have sufficient fullness, but
not too full. Edging is applied to In
sertion in the same manner, but no roll
ing is necessary in this case. When ap-
plying entredeux to material either make
a French seam or cut the material quite
close to the entredeux and roll 1t; then
roll the edge Of the material and whip
the two rolled edges together. To insert
medallions. haste them in place and but
tonhole the edge Of the lace to the ma
terial on the right side: then turn to the
under side and cut away the material
close to the edge with small, sharp scis-
sorS.
Lingerie of this character wears much
longer, is more easily laundered and is
more satisfactory in every way than
lingerie made Of Q profusion Of cheap
lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

and of course the monogram IS not OH tie
For time monograms and Initials were
not placed on sheets of paper that pole
the number and street OF a cry e,,t now
or the name of country place, out INV
thew are retained even When tne iioi,S
address is used. The lettering should
correspond in color to the monogram u
initial. .,...ion p,any
stvles of lettering are now accepted: ne
Main script so long faSn1onaple' WIN
always retained. by many women pu' DE-
old English, the shaded Enghsh' the Is
man and the French and the snaoeo
Ersnch lettering are more often employed
NV leaders of fashion. The french iettSi
ing is particularly attractive. II Is tnu
fayorite for debutantes and IS frequency
emnloyed for wedding invitations AS III
tha matter of note paper the size and
shane of wedding and other invitations
vary according to individual preference.
Women of moderate means prooaoiS
look upon the expense OF caros anu &c
tionery as altogether exorpltan1
DAYS. but it is poor economy 1hoee. "
save money on either one or the other.
There is no medium in cards. They mus.
he always quite above all possibility oi
criticism. In lettering, in Size and IN
quality they must represent the best taste
and the latest mode. or at least a stand
ard mode.
The fine note papers cost from $50 10
81 auire and when q monogram Is USED
the price of each sheet is appreclaoiy IN
creased. 1t is wise II economy must ue
the watchword to dispense with the mon
opraIn and to select the best quality OF
PAPER. It is not necessary to pay more
than 10 or rs cents a quire in order to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
Clothes Will Continue to Be Made for Thin
Figures, Though Stout Women Are
Better Suited Than for
Many Seasons.
Many Seasons.

front with satin buttons and finished
with white marabou. The resemblance to
bedroom costume was even more
marked by the addition of a soft short
black satin skirt, which looked like "a
morning pctticoat.
As another instance Of the variety of
the fashions of the day one could wear
severely plain skirt draped ono.
The pannier was as fashionable as tho
fitted hips and accordion pieating ran
side by side with two-piece skirts of
heavy slIiting. There Is infinite variety in
the way a woman can arrange her neck.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

ing. 1t is not probable that this work
will become popular unless women learn
how to do 1t at home, and that is not
probable. 1t will remain novelty among
the exclusive dressmakers for a while at
least Only little Of it should be used.
4 whole gown of 1t would be far from at
tractive. Its appearance as a separate
Jacket is a good argument for the fashion
of coats i'm another fabric from the skirts.
This has been going on for nearly u year
and the dressmakers will probably popu-
larize it this spring.
1t is style that has many pitfalls. It
takes an artist to combine two colors and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

meteor and the heavy crepe known as
Chinese crepe will all be favorites for
spring wear. Satin charIneuse will con-
tinue a favorite, as IT combines well
with chiffons and plain and embroidered
crepes. Messalines are In plain colors and
i'm fine hairline stripes applied TO black.
blues. tans and browns Dresden and POM
padour designs on folrlards. some In bright
green's. brilliant puppies and strong yell
lows. are prominent Printed silk volles
and brocaded figures I'm jacquard designs
i'm general in great profusion.
these soft. clinging materials have the
required draping qualities.
Plain and fancy RATINGS. some I'm two
color effects. in the form of groureds
stripes, borders and checks. VIII b. useds
for the ornamentation OF such sheer fab
rics as crepe yoiles
Fancy voiles, when ornamented with a
silk stripe, and further embellshed with.
a jacquard figure. I'm new and attrac-
tive range of colors. are very appealing;
In wash materials silk embroidered
figures are the novelty. There are also
novelties with a white border accotn~
panied by a narrow white band woSeR
i'm a design matching the border for
bodice ornamentation. Woven colored
cotton dress goods having a ripple stripe
are another Sovelty, as are also plain
effects.
Piuues and other ribbed weaves are
| ornamented with silk stripes with Jact
GUARD designs. Ottoman cords and cot
| ton whipcords. while usually i'm color
( associated with white, are also seen in
| solid colors.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
Pretty NegIiges.

KIEGLIGES in pink crepe de chine. with
petticoats to match. and sleeves fin
ished off with swansdown and shadow
lace are decidedly elegant. With these
garments not only stockings, but garters,
are sold to match.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26
s0METMGNG ABOUT THE NEW STATIONERY

save the possibility of being SUSPECTED Of
belonging to the parsimonious sisterhood
which buys at bargain sales paper that
retails at % cents a pound
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

spring it will not be high priced and ex-
elusive. For instance. on a white satin
sailor hat the only trimming will be
three mock oranges Of velvet with a
bunch of green leaves. OF course. the IN
and the shades will make any fruit OF
this color the first choice for ornament.
and women will wear oranges not only IN
their hats but on their gowns. A frock or
white lace draped over pale yellow cnar-
meuse has a. girdle of orange velvet with
two long streamers at the side that are
looped up with the lace at the knee Ine
by punches of small velvet oranges with
long green stems.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

Sumptuous fur-trimmed velvet suits are
much worn. A striking combination is
black and white striped velvet trimmed
with tailless ermine.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

THE DINNER GOWN AT LEFT IS OF
RUBY SATIN, SHOWING A NEW
KIND OF BODICE. THE HIGH
SLEEVES ARE SUGGESTIVE OF
THE FASHIONS OF THE '7OS. THE
GOWN AT RIGHT is OF BLACK
PANNE VELVET, WITH BODICE OF
SILVER RUN TULLE AND HEM OF
WHITE MARABOU.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

HERE is no reason
for any woman TO
be unattractively
gowned this sea-
son. So many ar
tistic things are
offered. and in such
variety, that each
figure and type
may be suited. The
world is SO full of
a II u IN b e + oil
clothes that women
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-26

BY the same reasoning the fashion Tor
cerise and many other shades of red has
brought velvet cherries back in fashion,
and these will be used on white and black
hats and also as corsage bouquets on att
ernooh gowns A frock Of black velvet
made in polonaise fashion over skirt
IF white satin has raised figures of white
velvet over the surface. and the one touch
of color is given by a bunch of cherries at
The Manitowoc pilot. [volume] (Manitowoc, Wis.) 1859-1932, 1913-06-19
Notes from ROSeCrans.

With the solemn ritual Of the CathO-
lie church and with hundreds of friends
IN attendance the body Of John Reedy
was laid to rest in the Stark cemetery
Wednesday morning. Mr.. Reedy died
sunday evening at st, Mary's hospital
at Green Bay after an illness of a few
weeks suffering from brain fever, He
was - years OF age and was always in
good health and apparently had long
life before him when he unexpectedly
falls before the Grim Reaper.
Mr.. Reedy is survived by his parents,
1--WE brothers, James of Stark, will OF
Rosecrans, and Dennis, Pat, Ambrose
Mt home, and five sisters, Mrs Frank
Kennedy OF Stark, Mrs. Jos Kapinos
Of Rosecrans, and Misses Mary, Helen
and Agnes at home.
| When news Of the passing of John
Reedy became known Sunday night cX.
pressions OF sorrow were heard on all
sides. During the day many friends
called at the Reedy residence and ex.
tended coincidence to the bereaved
members Of the family. May his SOU
find peace and JOY eternal
| Don't miss it, big dance at tn,
Maribel Opera house, Sunday, June -
Music by the Hilbert Symphony or.
chestra. a good time is assured.
The 9. x N. w. steam shovel is ex
pected to retura TO the gravel pit neal
hear within few days.
| Mrs. John johnson and daughtei
Wayne OF Milwaukee are visiting here
| Buy your new Ford automobile from
Tour local agent, +. &. Rabinhorst.
The Manitowoc pilot. [volume] (Manitowoc, Wis.) 1859-1932, 1913-06-19
Notes From MenChalyille.

A large number from here attended
the funeral of Michael j. Ledvina,
which was held at Kellnersville Thurs
day morning.
Mr.. and Mrs. jim Frisch and Mr..
Hruska and Anna Frisch were visiting
friends Sunday.
MIR. and Mrs. Law. Stedl and Mr..
and Mrs. Matt Stedl Sundayed in kas-
son.
The people around here were we'll
nleased with the rain we had. The
ground was very dry, so his rain help
ed vegetation a great deal.
Miss Lillian Stedl is on the sick list.
Quite a few attended the school pic
mic given by Miss Elizabeth Long.
Don't forget the Bachelors Club
dance at Jim Tisler's hall June End.
Supper and refreshments will be serv-
cd Music furnished by Menchalvllle
orchestra. Everybody is cordially in
vited to attend.
Mr.. and Mrs. Jos. Tisler and son
Stanley made a trip to Cooperstown
Monday.
Mr.. Frank Marek of Chippewa Falls
is visiting relatives and friends here,
Mrs. Jos. Cisler of Manitowoc spent
Thursday with her mother, Mrs. Geo,
Stedl.
The Manitowoc pilot. [volume] (Manitowoc, Wis.) 1859-1932, 1913-06-19
Notes From GrimmS,

Farmers who have alfalfa are cutting
and curing it this week. The alfalfa
crop is very light this year owing to
its being winterkilled.
Louis Grimm is able to be around
again after being laid up with a severe
attack of rheumatism.
Mr.. and Mrs. John Hayden and Mr..
and Mrs. Hugh Halloran autoed to
Green Bay Sunday.
Miss Ruth Hayden has completed
the elementary course at the Stevens
Point Normal and is home for the sum
mer.
The initial sheet of the Grimms Ga
zette will be issued Thursday. The
printing press has arrived and the pa
per will be edited and published 10y f,
A. Hickok.
Don't forget the picnic given by st.
Patrick's congregation on Friday,
July ith. Something doing all the
while.
Mrs. 7. Brennan and family OF Anti
90 are visitors at the Grimm home.