The chronicle=news., 1913-02-14
Fads and Fashions

New York. t'eu. ia.--At the be- |
ginning Of the fall season Of last year
somc OF the writer's Of fashion made
the somewhat rash statement that
the days Of the narrow skirt and OF
the slim silhouette were counted and
thut an era OF fullness, II not OF
boufancy was rapidly approaching In
the wake OF the tentative basque
models shown by some OF the famous
designers Of fashions In Paris and
elsewhere. Perhaps tho wish was the
father OF this prediction which. like
many other such predictions. WIS not
fulfilled.
Fashionable women simply refuse
to wear anything that would reduce
the length and Increase the width
OF their silhouette. They carry this
aversion to anything suggesting full
ness or bulk 70 far that even skirt
lining Is tabooed. For the street
therefore, women who have some re-
gard for their health and wish to
keep warm have recourse to msillots
or eQuestriennes Of Jersey. In cold
weather this Ia necessity. ut least
for women who do not own an auto
mobile or even carriage.
Owing TO this tendency for avoid
thin aud sheer materials OF every
description are extremely popular.
i.acc~ play an important role In the
present day fashion. Many costumes
show II a. kirt foundation. Us the
whole corsagc. ms sleeves or In the
form OF u little jacket. The last 10
one Of the most successful features
OF the season. Sometimes these
jackets are sleeveless. sometimes not
Occasionally the entire upper part
Is kind OF fIchu. both back and
front.
These little jackets OF lace. being
shortwaistcd. do not take much
goods. and II one happens to possess
several pieces OF lace. no matter
whether coarse or fine. for all kinds
are more or less nodish. one has only
to have II cleaned or pressed and
made into IA charming little jacket.
Those In black Chnnt!lly are exquis-
itc. also those In Point de Vcnisc.
These black lace Jackets for u chanso
are worn over an evening dress oi
any color. They are cut with or
without revers. dccollcttc or high
Ecckcd. but all nrc dainty aud dis-
t!nKuished. Imitation lace. which In
now quite fashionable. is generally
At one of the shops a very hand
some dress was shown the other day.
II WAS made In one piece and had u
row OF pink roses OF silk above the
cincture. The effect ir. OF course.
charming. Yet II is sure to make the
waist bl. and thick. That. however.
10 Just what the cou;uricrs wish. II
Is an absurd idea this. OF rendering
tho waist large and heavy. and OF
slicing off the hips md circumfcr-
ence. yet nothing appears to delight
the designers quite 70 much. The
more they Gun suppress curves. the
happier they are. In some cases this
tendency is carried to extremes.
II Is predicted that figured silks
and satins will be worn a great deal
during the coming season and that
plain satin will have . rest, ut least
to a great extent. This may be 10
with some afternoon frocks. but for
evening and handsome day gowns
nothing can excel the piain-faccd
rich satin. Brocades have only re-
Gently enjoyed popularity. and II Is
question whether or not us 4 whole
they have been real success.
4 color which Is extremely popu-
lar Just now Is rose leaf. u delicious.
soft. transparent tone Of pink. In the
evening stunning effects are caught
and ut social functions since Christi
mas the rose leaf for young women
has had first choice. Another dye
that Is pretty but more. delicate is
ashes OF roses. This was worn In
America years aso. and is more gray
than pink. yet In certain lights II Is
wonderfully soft. Trimmed In black
blond lace. or. In fact. any kind OF
light. fluffy lace IN black. the nate
riel In extremely beautiful.
The begun or evening bonnet Is
now having a tremendous vogue. II
Is great idoa. this little headgear.
for II one is going calling in the eve
ming Or to some function that does
not require the head bare. the be-
guin can be put on to cover tossed
hair. or hair that has been mussed
under hat. The fashionable begun
covers the entire head like all the
hats. and some women who do not
care to recuri their front hair fast
en- In the little fringe OF hair Of al
most any material. net or mousse
line. or lace. sewn on a light founda-
tion. The effect will be good pro-
rtded one does not overdo the thing.
4 white or black nigrettc or n para
a'sS itabher AZ the siue. uToppluS
over one ear, is the best and almost
the only garnish called for. Too
much trimming simply destroys the
beauty Of the whole arrangement.
Rich brocadcs with large patterns
in gold or silver. copper or gun me-
tai thread continue TO enjoy a cer-
tain vogue. They appear In rich
eatins. velvets and crepes. Their
cost prevents them from becoming
common and only an artist can make
them up satisfactorily.
The wearing of scarfs with decol-
lette gowns has become 30 general
that II is no wonder the woman who
has u desire to be nriRinnl has fOu nd