Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1913-05-25
fADS
AND FASHIONS

NEW YORK, May 24.-The summer
openings at the various fashion shops
have begun, but, so far, the result has
not been particularly sensational OF
interesting. The new summer frocks
show the big waist and the very shor,
! skirt. Coarse linens or crashes are
, trimmed in broad bands OF batiste,
'hemstitched or put on with a head OF
coarse dots. Generally the cein;ure Is
of the goods itself. sometimes OF silk
or satin of a contrasting color, and
smetimes of a swathed leather belt.
In place of buttons running down
, the front OF a dress there are small
flat bows. from three or four up to
a dozen. This idea VAS followed many
years ago in this country, the prim,
stiff little bows trimming house gowns
very prettily. People have not taken
TO the lows this season, but they re-
lieve the plainness of the front effect,
and there is nothing to do but accept
them. They may be the color OF the
silk they trim, OF they may be quite
a contrasting shade. As a matter OF
course the bows are only put on
dressy frockS OF satin or ST. ur crepe.
Among the tailored frocks at the
recent summe openings there was
not a single slashed skirt. In evening
dresses the skirts have the appear
ance of opening in front or at the side
over the feet, bu; such is not really
the case. The effect is caused by lap
ping the goods across. Only in a few
instances on the stage have new plays
shown the siaSheI skirt, Now, that
people have become accustomed to
the idea that it is no longer consider.
e. particularly %immodsst. yet the de.
signers OF fashions have evidently
abandoned the feature. which has lost
The charm of novelty,
The fashions for young girls are,
as a rule, quite charming at the pres.
ent time. The flounced skirt is Sc
cure of its position as a leader of
youthful fashions in wash materials
and is being developed in constantly
increasing variety. II may consist Of
a deep tunic, reaching TO the knees,
with a single flounce below that.
There may be three flounces gro. wing
deeper from the belt to the hem or
reversing that order and having the
shortest one at the bottom and the
deepest at the top.
One charming model recently seen
had an eighteen inch tunic with three
six.inch ruffles below it. The next
step may be the solid ruffled skirt
which has always been especially at
tractive on slim girlish figures. There
is one feature, however, that is al
most essential to bring these flounc-
ed skirts up to date. The ruffle Of
tunic, or whatever it is, must be
up slightly, generally at the
rose or a bunch of flowers. The
accessory is added at the belt,
where it is hal covered with the loose
folds of the corsage.
w The skirt often has a band Of color
ed satin ribbon encircling it, under
meath the shadow lace; for the most
Of these frocks are of shad-
DIV lace or net %flouncings and "all-
They can easily be made at
home or by an ordinary dressmaker,
is another point very much in
their avor. OF course, the big soft
.irdle is of wide ribbon or of silg or
satin by the yard, and always in a
color. -
The ultra modern Balkan, Cubist
and Futurist silks and ribbons are not
used as trimmings on these delicate
lingerie frocks. Only the most lovely
shades of the simple colors are to be
used on them. Ealkan and Persian
embroideries and trimmings are on
fined, In summer dresses to the sim.
Pile ones in heavy materials, such as
ratines, crash and linen. Pink and
pale blue, often in combination, are
the cOl0rs most used with the shadow
laces.
The most elaborate and expensive
of TIE lingerie frOcks for young girls
are those made Of hand.embroidered
combined with lace or net, or
bth. These, however, are not for the
pOssss0rs OF. limited incomes. They
are often very i%ntricately designed.
The embroidered batiste appears in
the form of elaborate motifs set into
the lace or tucked net. Only a very
clever designer could create such a
costume successfully and its ost would
naturally be quite considerable.
Many of the draped skirts shown
for girls are decidedly unsuccessful.
Drapery needs long lines to. be sue
and artistic, or else frankly
short ones, such as one sees in the
genuine Wlatteau frock. Young girls
are apt to look bunchy in draped
The loose waists which sag
over the belt and have no visible line
of demarcation between the bodies it.
self and the sleeves, are often most
on slight and supple young
After all, 1t is a comparative
ly simple matter to dress a young girl
of fairly good figure and not too angu-
lar, in a becoming style.
The new summer cotton blouse Is
very neat, but that Is almost It's only
If there be any trimming at
all, it Is down the front in a straight,
untrimmed piece of lace or embroid-
cry. Nearly all these garments open
front, and that is at least something
to recommend them. Often there Is
only a group of narrow tucks about
the opening, with a ruffle that is broad
at the neck but becomes narrow as it
reaches the bust, to finish In nothing
at the belt line.
The dressiest of the blouses are
finished with a great deal Of hem