Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-09

velvet ribbon across the back which is |
Spllced into two ends as it passes the
sides, and these ends are pulled down
ward and crossed in the middle front,
each showing tiny buckle
Cherolt uses four and sometimes six
quarterback straps of velvet. leather or
galloon-whichever the gown calls for.
They pass around the top of the skirt.
between waist and hips, and slope down
ward IN front She sometimes makes the
mistake or using too many and letting
| them dangle too far. which gives the ap
pearance of fancy dress costume.
Doucet does not hesitate to use the
oriental sash in a less pronounced form
than We had it last year, and Buzenet
frankly ties the hips in with six-inch
| sash that is arranged into a hustle bow
at the back.
| Here you have some of the best ways
of the leading designers of the world to
mitigate the gathers at the waist and
some of these must be adopted if you
would look your best when you weigh
over 120 pounds
| There is no denying the gathered skirt
You can avoid the stand-out tunic and
| omit pleated drapery. but if your skirt
fits snugly around the waist and hips
and knees you are as oldfashioned as
! last years birds nest
AS long as the bodice above these skirts
( Is immensely full. and the skirt itself
| remains full until it reaches the ankles
the unusual size given to the waist by
the gathers and the new corsets is not
| as marked as it would be were these
/ features lacking.
/ After all. stout woman does not look
| very much larger In a we'll adjusted
| carefully draped full skirt than she did
| In a tight skirt out of which she seemed
L Try hrYrc Tha
which falls in folds from the shoulder,
| and has kimono sleeves that reach al
most to the waist, actually hides the full
ness Of the figure in such a manner that
/ the size of the bust is not noticeable
| There Is no doubt that 1t is better to
| be slender In any Of the modern clothes
Fashion has decreed that the figure must
/ be thin In order to stand the amount of
| pleats and drapery which we Wear and
SO the stout woman is not especially COM
| forted in this new turn of the wheel. She
| can only hope that her flesh will not be
as apparent as it was in the hobble skirt
| and the tight waist.
| Already the tunics are SO we'll man
| aged that heavily built women can wear
| them. The fullness Is pushed away from
the front toward the sides and back and
| there is sharp bias line formed by the
hem across the figure. beneath this the
skirt is draped over the knees or cut
full and caught into the front seams in
such manner that the contrast between
the upper and lower skirt is not too
great.
BY the way, there is a good arrange
ment in draping a lower skirt SO that 1t
will have the necessary fullness below
the tunc and yet it will not increase
the fullness around the waist by means
of pleats. The skirt Is made quite long
in front and is then pleated across the
figure just above the knees in a three
inch line This draws the hem up in the
middle of front, gives ease and grace in
walking and provides that drapery i'm
mediately below the tunic which every
skirt must have. w
The top Of this skirt is cut entirely
plain, and it therefore hugs the hips
closely. which is IA good trick under
full tunic, provided the tunic is opaque.
When it is transparent, of tulle or chif-
fon, the lower skirt does not look well
when gored and fitted to he hips.
1t Is too late in the season for women
to continue wearing white and gray
stockings In the street but they will be
the smart things for the house.
White stockings are worn with any
kind of dark gown that serves for formal |
day occasions such as luncheons and |
afternoon teas, and the shoes may be |
ultra smart fat-heeed black satin slip |
pers or the high-hee!ed patent leather
colonials with huge buckles of old silver
or cut steel. They are not adapted for
evening wear except with white gowns.
and then they carry colored slippers. such
as plain satin affairs of apple green,
bright purple or flame red.
The new evening slipper is untrimmed.
II DIR E1F7TW @IN