Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-10-19
Paris Notes Increasing Vogue of
Digmifi@d Clothes.
Trade i'm Fox Furs Presents
Problem for Americans.

: suspect much of that combination was
arranged for purposes of advertising the
! house, although no French dressmaker
| would admit for ieeting second that she
could bring herself down to ANYTHING so
inartistic as advertisement. She MAIN
tains the attitude of an artist, but we
| know she is the most commercial artist
alive.
But to get back to what Paquin is do
! ing this month: She is continuing to
show those excessively good looking long
coats which she brought out the third
week in August
| 1t took her year to learn how to cut
| and drape them, but she is doing 1t now
with a master hand. One is tempted to
say they are the coats of Paris, although
f, one instantly recalls Paul Poirets coats
| that swing from the shoulders with an
| indescribable charm. Take these two ex-
! amples OF coat making, and You have the
| best thing of this winter. They have
originality, grace and are in good taste,
and You must admit that this is trilogy
not often found.
You remember that coat of Paquins
| last autumn and again last spring? 1t
was a struggle toward something new
evolved out of something DID, and We de-
cried it. We did this rightfully, because
the garment was awkward, and yet it en-
! phasized the point Paquin was trying to
bring out
| She might have invented simple long
| coat and no one would have paid atten-
| ton to 1t, but when she revived the godet
| coat of Louis XIV and put in a waist
coat like the one he wore she could not
fail to catch public attention, and she got
what she wanted, but it was not pleasant
| ly expressed.
This fall she brought out exactly the
| visr1,t fA- he nvio for
siDly better for us than for the French
! figure. 1t is short in front and opens wide
over the waist and abdomen, to show an
| ornamental waistcoat which does not ex-
| tend above the bust but is put in as
| part of the coat. She uses upholstery fab
| ric for this accessory.
! One woman, looking at six of these
coats in review, suddenly exclaimed: Il
know exactly what to do with the old
| covering of the parlor sofa
| l have no doubt the same idea will
| strike dozens of women, although it is
reminiscent of some of the advice given to
American women by journals OF economy.
| One always must remember, when in
dulging in episodes of economy, that
every one has not handsome discarded
covering that belonged to parlor sofa:
but there is another idea to take its
place-buy remnants of ornamental stuffs
! in the upholstery department of shops and
use them for waistcoats, for collars and
cuffs
The backs of these new coats are ex-
] cessively long-waisted and they have no
! belt, which is an innovation in this
months fashions. The pepium is laid into
/ two or more wide side pieats that spring
out and flare from the body because they
are unStitched. They start at the end OF
| the long waist line, several inches from
| each side of the middle. The fronts, which
/ are cut away. are full enough to ripple at
| the hem, as they reach the back and they
| give a fiat effect to the figure in 'front.'
although even the longer waistcoats rip
| pie at the hem. This is probably due to
| the influence of the minaret tunic.
The absence of revers on the majority
of the new coats is strongly emphasized.
/ That Bernard model of khaki-colored
| duvetyn, that fastens to the chin with
: gun metal buttons and Is finished with
a band of skunk fur. is more or less the
/ model of the moment. The Americans
have taken to this coat with enthusiasm
| and have bought II in large quantities.
One of the minor houses had 1t the week
that the house of Bernard opened, and be-
tween the two there was large demand
| for it.
Bernard has also turned out coats with
| waistcoats, but only Paquin has used the
Louis XIV kind. Hers extend well below
/ the waist and end at the bust; Bernard 8
! extend to the neck and end at the waist.
| They have a markedly different line, but
they are both intended to fill in the spaces
] OF an open coat
| Demands waistcoat is better for the
coat of last winter, with its we'll thrown
| back revers, and Paquins waistcoat can
| only be worn with the coat to which it Is
attached.
| The fact that both these houses show
| such accessories has revived the demand
| for waistcoats, and one finds them on
every side The waistcoat blouse which
| Cheruit invented is another indication Of
| the same movement, and her blouse will
be more popular with Americans than the
waistcoat which must be worn over
blouse.
1t is doubtful if Americans take up the
| latter idea to any extent because all the
| cheaper grade of ready-made suits last
winter positively rioted in small satin
| waistcoats that held the coats together.
! Here and there one may see really
smart vest made of some thick material,
| with a high collar that flares away from
the neck and chin and colored buttons
that reach from neck to waist, but it will
| be fantasy, pure and simple, INDUCED
| in as protection against the cold.
If woman wishes to wear a suit, of