The Kenna record. (Kenna, Roosevelt County, N.M.) 190?-1924, 1913-06-20
GARDEN FOR DRY FARM
Land Should Be Flowed Deeply
in Strips Five Feet Wide.
Before Planting, Dead Burrows Should
Be Given Extra Flowing and Some
Leaf Mold or Humus From
Cattle or Sheep Corral.

bdDieS IN the ury Iarm Bar0en Dy
drainage from the adjoining soil sur
faces. We all know how easy 1t is
even on the dry farm to raise flowers,
plants, creepers, ETC., in little beds
around the house and under the drip
from the roof; this drainage from the
roof provides precipitation from
larger area than the plant could other
wise receive, hence it gets more than
its share-more than it's share would
be in the field.
This is the principle we apply to
the garden; for a few feet of space
more or less made little difference,
and more space means more moisture,
especially when we show how all the
water which falls on this space can be
drained directly to the roots of the
plants.
The land for the garden should be
plowed as deeply as possible in strips
FIVE feet wide, which will leave dead
furrow every five feet, and a ridge
or back furrow between every two
dead burrows; in other words, alter
nate hollows and ridges.
The rows of vegetables are, of
course. in the hollows and get the
run-off or drainage from the ridges
which gives them about three times as
much water as the crops in the field
receive.
Before planting, however, the dead
burrows should be given an extra
blowing to allow plenty of depth for
roofing, and some leaf mold or corral
humus mixed in with the soil.
For the garden there is nothing like
leaf mold If you can get 1t, but falling
that, the next best thing is humus
from some old cattle or sheep corral,
writes q. r. Parsons in the Dakota
Farmer.
1t will pay well to haul few loads
of leaf mold and distribute it up and
down the dead burrows before blowing
under.
1t may seem a good deal of work.
but one good fertilizing will last for
several years and green peas. fresh
beans, cabbages, carrots, turnips,
beets, asparagus, ETC., with nearly
every meal are. surely worth while.
The site for the garden should be
selected where the soil is rich and
deep; but where there is no choice,
near the house is always the handiest.
Some enterprising folks will often
pack water to their garden, but this
should never be done early in the
season because it encourages the
plants to root too near the surface,
and then when warm weather comes
they can with difficulty be prevented
from willing; therefore If plants are
-watered at all, they should be watered
only as last resort at or near matur-
ing time. To water by hand hills of
melons, squashes and cucumbers, even
tomatoes, there is nothing handler
than a quart can with some holes in
the bottom sunk in each hill. The
water is poured into the can and
leaks slowly into the ground and sub
irrigates the plant without any waste
The garden should be kept we'll
cultivated or hoed and no crusts al
lowed to form, and if all these details
are properly attended to will prove
a material addition to the resources
of the farm.
In planting in the row, plenty of
space also is necessary; a good rule
being to give everything twice as
much room as usual
Cabbage planted two feet apart in
the row and the rows five feet apart
have 2x5=10 square feet to exploit for
moisture; with a precipitation of IL
inches, ten square feet will receive
625 pounds of water; now we can
raise a very good cabbage on 300
pounds, and a fine caulifiower on 400
pounds, so that If the precipitation is
conserved in the soil the year around
we can allow nearly half for waste by
evaporation and then raise a fine
garden.
Asparagus and pie plant do particu-
larly well without irrigation, while
peas, lettuce and radishes should be
planted as early as possible to avoid
the heat. Beans always do well, also
melons, cucumbers and squashes when
deep rooted, otherwise they will wilt
easily and become stunted.
The lettuce bed should be shaded
in summer with a board or two
Strawberries should be planted two
feet apart in the row and no runners
allowed.
Turnips should be planted late to
avoid the little hoppers which eat
the leaves; ashes, however, will help
to keep them away, also on the radish
bed.
Some of the best flowers are: Holly
hooks, petunias, portulaca, nastur