Arizona republican., 1913-10-21

Stdftle UN tHelr udTlnS uuCoIN e4llloI- ality and eccentricity than to please by their beauty and harmony.
 Speaking in a general way It may be said that the styles ot the pres ent day are dominated by Greek or oriental influences. Skirts are still scant and sflhouettes in the best mo- deIs approach the normal form as represented by some of the famous Greek masterpieces of sculpture Of course, there are exceptions from that general rule and some of the models by famous designers display silhouettes altogether absurd if not actually repugnant and indecent. The luxury displayed in the cos tunes of the present day, especially in those for evening wear and in dancing and dinner froclls and wraps has never been equalled. Most ball 1 gowns have a detached train which may be thrown over the arm, and | dancing dresses with round skirts | take on a somewhat more elegant i appearance by the richness of their trimming of jet or jewels. Jewels in l gorgeous brilliancy and colors are | combined with rich materials of the most beautiful and richest colors and | textures.
 |, Much lace, threaded with metal, made entirely of metal. powdered 1 with rhinestones and jewels of va rious sorts, is employed to fashion the scantily draped bodces The graceful mantle of lace falling from the shoulders and covering the back ! is often fashioned of exquisite Chan l lilly and Point de Milan. A touch purely French is the edging of much .I- | sable, putois and sea1skin.
 1 Ribbons, too, have d large share of attention. These furnish the new wide girdles often falling in long ends at the side A favorite ribbon trimming is the rose quilting of rib l bon two or three inches wide. which, in contrasting color, edges the skirt or Russian blouse.
 Mantles to accompany such gowns l surpass them in the point of splen- dor An innovation is the mantle of fur or of velvet falling from the shoulders to the back in the line of an Italian officers cape; the front, in such cases, is like short jacket reaching just below the waist the idea being that the cape shall be pulled around with the hands to cover the front of the skirt.
 
 seems to have inspired unprecedent- ed beauties in this line. A brocade in bold design of Burgundy red on white forms, for instance, the upper part of a pointed mantle, while the lower portion is a band of the solid red. This is perfectly simple, fall ing like a shawl, finished by one of the huge collars of sable. New fur collars, by the way, have a cu- rious tendency to find their places as far from the neck as possible in the ok
 Many short wraps of velvet. bro caded or plain, finished with fur, and also made entirely of fur and 1 short fur jackets accompany the 1 afternoon gowns of satin or velvet The favorite furs for jackets are l caracul. broadtaiI dyed squirrel These have collars of putois, civet fox in every conceivable shade and type. Many jackets of cloth are also trimmed with a collar and cuffs of these latter furs, also of leopard pony and jackel.
 Tailored jackets have lost their stiffness entirely. They are made of the soft ratines and plush like materials, also of the new cotton velvets, striped like corduroy. and, in spite of all this, of the ever favo- rite dark blue serge. Any number of jackets are in contrast with the material of the skirt such as jack cts of Scotch plaid. with skirts in plain dark blue or green serge or broadcloth. One house makes a spe- cialty of a two-flounce pleated skirt of black and white shepard's plaid worn with a jacket of black ratine
 As to jacket length. it varies from the waistline to the latest depth which is about at the ankles. Tn this latter case the portion of the skirt showing below the jacket is often entirely of fur It would seem req sonabIe that either this very long, rather ample jacket, a sort of Rus sian blouse, one which reaches the short loose hip line will become popular; the former with tall women, the latter with small women, pro- vided they are not too fleshy. One piece dresses for afternoon wear are the excuse for a new line. very long waisted in the back, which but tons to reach them in straight line without curve from the neck down.
 Nearly all brouses shown in the shops have low collars. There are many kinds of new collars in the market and all are large and broad except the adapted Japanese collar which is about two inches wide, rolls back on the gown, runs to the waist in negligent line and stands away from the back of the neck for two inches.
 While the backs of bodices are high, it is not fashionable now to run the line up to the hair. On coats, as well as on blouses, the collar springs away from the neck as soon as it passes the shoulder no matter how high it may be. One does not see high collars, however rn1nt for S