The San Francisco call., 1913-08-03
HOW KOREANS
GUARDED THEIR
CURIOUS ARTS
The Effort of a Navy Officer
to Steal the Tile From
an Ancient Harern
Nearly Fatal
HERMIT KINGDOMS
QUAINT CUSTOMS
Captain Harry George Re
lates Story of.an Adven-
ture Which Hap
pened Long Ago
BY CAPTAIN HARRY GEORGE,
United States Navy, Retired

United States Navy Retired
This story occurred many years ago,
when Korea, the Hermit kingdom. had
not yet arisen from the sleep of CEN
turies and was still in tranquil repose,
oblvious TO the rude awakening that
was shortly to take place Chosen or
the Land of the Morning Calm, as the
name implies. Is an ancient and inter-
esting country, which, at the time of
this tale, was almost unknown to the
world at large.
Modern progress was looked upon with
disdain. and foreigners held in con-
tempt as so many devils from strange
lands beyond the seas.
The history Of Korea is the struggle
OF an intelligent and contemplative peo-
pie. lacking in martial prowess. physi-
cal vigor and enterprise to maintain
their political independence in the face
Of aggression by neighboring foes.
Buffeted by the warlike Japanese on the
one hand and the insiduous diplomacy.
Of China on the other. the national
spirit soon died away. From the earli-
est times Korea has been the vassal of
China and the victim OF forays by the
samuri Of Japan. when not fighting
ameng themselves
SEOUL. THE CAPITAL
But the arts had fiourished and at
tained a high order of excellence before
the Christian era. Korean workmen
were esteemed in China and Japan and
have left an indelible impress on the
artistic and industrial development of
those countries.
The famous Satsuma potting is un-
denfapIy or Korean origin and in the
fabrication of armor and trappings the
Koreans taught their enemines how to
make that which they seemed incapable
of wearing themselves. S
In the month of May found my
self in Seoul the capital. a huge walled
city whose history and traditions date
back to- the dawn of recorded time.
IT is. situated in a mountainous
region, about 80 miles from Chemuepo
on the sea, and occupies a picturesque
and, commanding. position well chosen
fer efficient defense. The weather was
delightful with languorous warmth
that impressed one with the Joy Of
livtng. All was strange. so bizarre and
unfamiliar as to be almost forbidding.
The narrow streets were heaped with
rubbish; rotting in the sunlight. and
bitches nHed with stagnant seepage
displayed a primitive disregard for
hygiene rules. The houses were low,
tile covered habitations, square and
eonddy built with a jambling of colors
oriental in tone, but not unpfeasing to
the western eyes Around the confines
OF the city massive walls pass across
valleys and Ellis without regard to the
typographical difficulties in their con-
struction. Here and there rose pagoda
like towers, marking the various gates,
with armonial devices and grotesquely
carved gorgoyles to strike terror to the
foe.
Partly obscured. by low walls and
dense shrubbery could be seen the
towns OF the royal palace. the home of
the spiritual and temporal ruler of
Korea, who while a vassal Of China and
dominated by a powerful and arrogant
aristocracy enjoyed the proud title of
lord of lords and king of kings.
THE AMERICAN COMPOUND
Our minister resident, an amiable and
accomplished gentleman. invited me to
the American compound, as the foreign
legations were called. Our compound
was removed frem the dust and noise
of the native quarter. on a slight ele-
walton and inclosed by mud walls and
hedges OF japonicas and other oriental
foliage then I'm full bloom.
The buildings were quaint. but COM
Portable; one the largest for the min
lister and his staff and the others scat
tered about the grounds housed his
servants. chair bearers, official escort
and other dependents without whom no
foreign representative can command
respect.
was introduced to Mr.. o, the Korean
interpreter, who has the shortest name
ever heard. This gentleman was COM
mended to my consideration and proved
a friend indeed.
Mr.. informed me that the Ko-
rean secretary of foreign affairs was to
lunch at the compound on the follow
Ing day and aroused my curiosity by a.
vivid description OF the ancient palaces
OF Seoul, long since discarded by roy
atty and crumbling to decay. but re-
f1ecttng the golden age OF Korean arch
itecture. Very few foreigners had seen
these remarkable ruins and the natives
were forbidden to enter the Enclosures
The king of kings was the head Of
the Buddhist faith and anything he
touched became sacred and not to be
profaned by, the hands Of ordinary NOR
tails.
Mr.. o was OF tho opinion that by
judicious diplomatic. effort permission
might be obtained and offered his serv-
ices to this end. ! recfprocated this
courtesy by assuring Mr.. as delicate
ly as I could that In the event OF sue
cess my thanks would be expressed in
a most potent manner. We agreed that
. the luncheon on the morrow would be
an auspicious occasion to IAunch this