The Washington herald., 1913-10-26

ried out the general scheme Of the toilet
in the details OF hosiery and slippers.
Mrs. Louis, C. Bacon, OF Boston, for
merly Miss Mary Southerland of this
city, who is making a ten-days' visit to
her girlhood home, has selected as one
of her handsome winter gowns a crea-
ton in the brand new brOcade which the
Paris couteriers are sending out to re-
place the stiff metallic brocade of former
years. This is'a combination of blue,
mauve and gold, soft enough to be
draped like crepe de chine, but wonder
fully rich in effect The skirt is narrow,
Of course, cut with a slight point directly
in front, draped in a short tunic about
the hips and ends in a pointed train,
long and narrow. There is very little o.
the figured brocade showing above a
mauve velvet girdle. as the bodice is
largely of gold lace; the latter covering
the shoulders and forming a round neck.
The girdle of velvet is supplemented by
a sash of Brussels net in identically the
same coloring. This falls almost to the
hem of the skirt on the left side, to be
finished in a superb tassel repeating all
the rich and delicate shades Of the
gown; mauves, blues, gold and silver. A
corsage bouquet OF roses in orchid col
OIAlS SonpSltS lHe SOSlunS-
The individuality in dress, which is one
of the happy signs of season, asserts it.
self in every variety of toilet. The time
when ten or twelve well-dressed girls
took their morning walk i'll jackets ard
skirts of the same cut, and sometimes
showing a deplorable resemblance in ma
teriaI, is totally unknown these days.
Miss Marta Calvo, the handsome young
daughter of the Minister from Costa
Rico. is one of the maidens of the dip
plomatic circle who Is particularly happy
in her style OF dress. Miss Calvo is wear
ing a black, or very dark blue, velvet
semi-tailored suit in an undraped skirt.
with smart top that is a composite of
tunic, blouse, and Jacket This Is fin
ished by a decoration of white and black
silk embroidery, of geometrical pat
tern, with the centers of each figure in
green. There is also a line of the EN-
broidery about the bottom of the we'll
hung skirt. The jacket, or blouse, is
held in by a broad black satin girdIe,
with sash ends falling low in front
Here the embroidery extends for twelve
or fourteen inches, giving the effect of a
swinging panel. Miss Calvo wears one
of the modish small black velvet hats.
An ultra smart suit, showing the COM
plete departure froTn-the close tailored
line, yet a tailor suit par excellence, is
that worn by Miss Anna Portner, just
home from Paris, where, according to
well authenticated rumor, she has pro-
cured a trousseau that will make her
the best-attired bride in Congressional
circles since the days of Mrs Nicholas
Longworth. Miss Portner's marriage will
not, however, take place until early in |
the new year, consequently many of her
gowns are for present-day wear.
The blue suit in winch she appeared on |
Connecticut Avenue on Thursday Is new |
along every line of color. material, and |
cut. Very dark in tone with greenish \
cast, the material is a ratine weave of |
wool and silk. The skirt is laid in four |
box plaits down the front. each plait less |
than two inches broad stitched half way |
to tho knee. There is a suspicion Of /
dTapery in the back OF the skirt, which |
is covered by a square-cornered plated
peplum, this being one of the first IL |
Iustrations of the new suits in which the |
back is given more attention by the de- |
signer than the frent. Miss Portner's /
Jacket is hip length, loose across the |
shoulders. with the sleeve that follows |
the kimono lines until near the elbow, |
whence it becomes as severely tailored |
as the most English mace jacket Of the |
last ten years.
new method of cutting a dartless coat, is
held in front by a cloth belt starting /
from under each arm. There is no collar
on the coat, the edge Of which is finished
by a five-inch band of blue fox, unless 1
one could consider the four-inch band /
Of blue fur, a collar, extending to the |
hem of the garment on either side.
Miss Portner, like all returning travel
ers from the center Of fashion, or their
discerning stay-at-home sisters, Is wear
ng with this a white lace blouse. Even
Tor morning wear white blouses are now
produced in a variety OF laces as SUBJ
stantial as old-time Brussels net, and
much more artistic. A round velvet |
nat. semi-tailored, with soft crown and
,tinf brim and single aigrette with band
ind small bow Of moire ribbon, topped /
his smart and extremely becoming
costume
The first touch of frost in the air was I
evidently welcome TO that portion of
ociety whose winter wraps and furs
we're well aired from the useful, but
unpleasant, mothball.
Miss Carolyn Nash, daughter of Medi-
al Director Francis N. Nash. L. s. N,
ecently returned ytc Washington after
ears of service abroad and at remote