davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21
WINTERSEASON
BRINGS LITTLE
FABRIC CHANGE
Many of New Woods and Worsteds
Are Practically the Same as
Those of Summer.

II YOU look over~the seasons fabrics
YOU will see that It Is not nearly 50
long a way ar II seems from the
summer fabrics 10 those Of the su-
tumn and winter
For instance. You find among the
newest materials in wool and wors,ei
many of the wFaves with which YOU
have become SO familiar during the
last few months ia cotton. linen and
ramie. But. IN order 60 satisfy WUm-
ems desire for something new the
manufaJ turer-laN- found out their
favorites in the l9st asOn-has mod
flied the weavcs Of many OF thosr
materials slightly, so that while they
are the same, they are at the same
time different. These new materials
untried. are called novelties" and
not infrequently a novelty becomes
80 popular that it isslooked upon as
standard fabric.
Among the standard fabrics are the
serges. cheviots, broadCIoths, mixtures
and the staple checks and plaids
These fabrics have for many wears
given such excellent service that one
never regrets putting money into one
OF them. Eponges and ratines which
first found favor in cotton materials,
have proved 80 satisfactory that
women are glad to welcome them in
wool as one Of the best fabrics for
the winter. Reps piques and pop
Inns are duplicated in wool under the
names OF reps" Bedford cords" and
needle cords"
The trend Of materials is toward
the crepe effect in weave. known as
'crepon" IN wool, or, when In a weave
called granite" rs known as Mel
rose" a fabric for some wears made
principally in black, but now shown
in colors Some OF the eponges are
woven with a corded stripe which is
most effective. The heavier materials
for outer garments still continue very
rough in texture, many OF them
showing the camel's-hair or zibeline
finish.
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21
SHORTER SKIRTS
THAN EVER ARE
PROMISED NO v
Street Suit That Touches the
Ground Will Be Regarded
as a Monstrosity.

One Of the most remarka BILE changes
to be noticed is in the matter Of the
length Of the skirt.
All makers agree that most of the
skirts viii be short even very short,
since there is a noticeable fashion for
showing the feet. Even costumes for
dressy occasions viii have the skirts
short, and what is more, as short as
those Of the tailored suits. a street
dress that touches the ground will be
looked upon as monstrosity.
As to the width. skirts will con-
tinue narrow, at least. narrow in ef-
feet. Many Of them show the uplift-
ed drapery at the front, accentuating
the curvIng line of the figure
Draperies follow the outlines of the
figure. and pleated, paneled OF plain
skirts will keep TO close lines There
IS a marked evidence of founced
skirts, but these will be mounted on
close fitting foundations, and there
by retain the silhouette of the body
in spite Of their fullness.
Trains will not be especially popu-
lar. and when used they will be slen-
der. These trains will be wound
about the figure and fastened in CIR
die form when the wearers do not
wish TO have the trailing length in
evidence.
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21
ART MOVEMENT
.PREDOMINATES
IN STAGE GOWN
Paquin viii Undoubtedly Take
Many Suggestions From Co.'S
tunes Designed by Bakst.

The new art movement is noticed
in all Of the recent theatrical produc-
tons. A striking example of this Is
the Russian ballet, (which is regarded
as a criterion in matters of this kino.
This spectacle is produced under
Bakst, the great scenic artist of the
modern school. who devises the light
ming arrangements, as well as de-
signing the costumes and scenery.
As an artist Bakst has won great
renown, and it is admitted that The
artistic success of the Russian ballet
is due chiefly to him. For Bakst made
the setting for the dancers-ths
background, the frame and the light
ming for the picture.
Unconsciously one couples the name
Paquin and Bakst. For the famous
Nine. Paquin has accepted designs
from Bakst and shown them in her
collection. Suggestions from these
models viii undoubtedly make an ap-
pearanCe in Paquins future produc-
tiOns.
The main principles of the modern
art-rank use of color, simplicity OF
outline and originality OF treatment
have distinguished the Bakst designs.
both in the matter Of dress and the
millinery.
Their exhibition has made Paqu,n
even more nOpular and has inCrea sed
confidence in the results Of the merg-
ing Of the ideas of artists and dress
makers.
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21
POIRET MODEL
LATECREAT|ON
Of PARIS ART
Fitch Collar and Cuffs Keynote of
Suit Displayed by ChamberIin-
JOhnsOn-DuBose Company.

One Of the loveliest creations OF
Partisan art, to be seen right here in
our own Atlanta, is the costume of blue
matelasse, an exact reproduction Of a
Poiret model, now being shown Il
Chamberlin-Joh nson-D uBose Compa-
ny.
The keynote of distinction Of this
stunning suit is in the fitch collar and
cuffs, combining in artistic beauty
with the soft blue of the suit
The coat. of bolero effect, is caught
in with a loose belt, producing a dis
tinctive note.
And there's the tunic effect Of the
skirt giving that stylish width over
the hips effect.
The skirt Of course, is narrow at
the bottom, with just a slight split in
the front.
The charming simplicity and the
delicate blending of colOrs of this suit
easily make it a marvel of models.
To complete this charming toilet
there's a three piece set of natural
fitch and tan velvet, that tan with
the golden TIM.
The hat, of velvet. is a tiny, nobby
affair. round in shape, and with a
distinctive towering ostrich tip set
ting off its simple beauty.
The immense muff of shirred Velva,
combined with the soft tones of the
fitch, is. indeed, a thing of beauty.
And then there's the daintiest neck
piece of fitch, completing this won
drous costume of blue and gold.
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21
In the World of Music

The following musical program will
be rendered at the First Baptist
Church to-day under the direction Of
]. P. O'DonneIly, organist:
Morning.
Prelude.
They Shall Not Hunger Nor
Thirst" Woodman.
Save Me. o God. for Thy Names
Sake" Matthews-Mr. Harry r.
Bates.
Evening.
Prelude.
THE Lord Is My Light" Rogers.
20 For a Closer Walk With Cod"
Foster-Mrs. Peyton H. Todd and
choir.
POstlude.
The Atlanta Conservatory, Morti-
mer Wilson general director. an
nounces the engagement of Signor
and Madame Domenico Brescia and C.
Frederick Bonawitz as additions %
the faculty of the school. Signor
Brescia is among the foremost Italian
teachers of repertoire. He is a COM
poser Of opera. a voice specialist,
teacher Of bel canto. opera coach and
a conductor Of wide experience. He
refused a flattering offer from the
Chicago Grand Opera Company to ac-
cept the position with the conserva-
tory. Signor Brescia will have charge
of the school of opera.
Madame Brescia is an accomplished
linguist as well as a pianist and as
sistant to Signor BresCia. She VIII
have charge of the department of
languages in the school.
Mr.. Bonawitz Is a baritone of IN
usual qualifications. He couples with
his long training and experience as Il
singer a practical knowledge of the
dramatic and operate stage. He will
have charge of the school of acting in
addition to his duties as voice teach
er and coach.
The student recitals will be given
weekly, beginning in October. Re-
citals by members of the faculty will
occur twice each month. A perform
ance of The Messiah" Wilt be given
each year by the students of the
school, and every spring a cantata
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21
Fashion points


Costume, suit and wrap fashions
for this season present not so much
novelty Of form as novelty of mate
riais and colorings To some degree
the Oriental form is stin in evidence,
but so marked is the movement to-
ward utility that the Eastern influ-
ence is remarkably Iessened; in fact
from the viewpoint of novelty the
Oriental styles are on the decline.
The latest effects lead to the adop-
ton of really ideal forms combining
art and utility. The new fabrics
themselves have suggested new ideas
10 the dressmakers, which, united
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21

will be sung by the school chorus, ac-
companied by the student orchestra.
There viii be recitals Of the school
of opera and drama several times
during the year.
The school orchestra and chorus
are already under rehearsal. New
students are constantly entering
the conservatory from oUt-of-town
points as well as from the city.
Nine. Nordica is making Charles
Wakefield Cadman's songs familiar TO
Australians. He has recently COM
posed a trio for piano, violin and
cello, concerning which he writes that
he has endeavored to put into two OF
the movements what he considers a
reflection of the American spirit"
while 1 have not used a single ne
gro, Indian. Creole, 'Hurrah for the
Flag, Boys or ragtime theme, I have
tried to write some music with a
tinge Of all these elements for a
melodic or thematic base" He now
wonders: ''Win music containing
these diverse elements, European, In
dian, Creole, negro and idealized rag
time, not forgetting a patriotic tinSe
CWhateVer that may be cOnSidered)
coalesce in a satisfactory manner
will it amalgamate in a style all Ks
own or will it sound like a congress
of nations gone crazy?'
Mahler's eighth symphony. which
requires for its performance a thou
sand players and singers, is to be
heard this season in London as well
as in Paris.
The latest Don Juan opera is by the
Italian composer Franco Alfani. It
has nothing in common with Mozart's
masterwork except Don Juan himself
Tired of the life he has been leading
he seeks refuge in a ruined castle in
Corsica. A young woman, suspeCtins
him of being the assassin of one OF
her relatives, gathers mob of peas
ants and enters the castle. She dis
covers her mistake, promptly falls in
love with the professional lady
killer, and the two escape while th5
peasants are burning what remains
of the castle.
Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1913-09-21

with the gay colorings and unusual
patterns of the Modern Art, will give
to the fall and winter fashions nov
city and interest unsurpassed. va
riety ana originality in design distin-
guish this seasons fashions.
Women OF good taste demand indi-
viduality Of dress. and Paris dress
makers. protecting themselves from
copyists, are pledged not TO copy. This
means more individuality than ever
before. Each big maker will uphold
his conception OF the proper dress for
the woman fashionable, and each will
nave his own select following.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
MENDHAM'S WILL IS FILED
Related Document Produced on
Widows Demand.

Although Maurice u. Mendham' broker
and familiar figure In Broadway has
been dead almost year. his viii was not
Glod IN the Surrogates' Court until yester-
dav. II was produced on the demand OF
lie wife Mrs. Frances G. Mendham. VINO
,o,L ont letters Of administration on the
.oe,ste November a. 1912 She said there
,ros M viii and that her husbands estate
would amount TO not more than 500.
The will was filed yesterday by Benho
Iov.inson. a lawyer. who made state
mont that the instrument did not come
into his possession until two Gays ago.
IL eoid his information was that the VIII
-, ,ho broker would have been filed be-
,oro hut for the fact that after making
{, Mendham made another viii which he
dos,roved and those interested In the hrst
ID, ,houcbt that this action invalidated
the original document.
In his will Mendham left $1,000 TO mis-
friend Miss Frances Carnright when
,,.as tho maiden name Of Mrs. Mendham'
who was the ward OF the broker before
sba married him. The testator gave the
,os, NJ his estate 10 his brother Louis =.
>,ordbarn. Frank Acer. friend, ana 10
',,,'Ibom's brother applied 10 the sur
- 80 Court for an order directing Mls.
,,,eSi,or, IN file an accounting o. her acts
~. administratrix and TO nave her si'V"
bond increased.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
KLINE WON'T LIFT THE LID
One O'clock Rule Stands-May
Grant More Licenses.

Mayor Kline does not intend TO lift the
lid and go back TO the old days when
'guzzling" went on along the Great White
Way and elsewhere until the very early
hours I'm the morning. He was quoted
yesterday I'm way 10 indicate he would
reverse the policy OF Mayor Gaynor that
all restaurants operating with a liquor
license would have TO close al ! o'clock.
The Mayor said he would use discretion
in everything he did. and had no inten-
ton Of reversing the Gaynor policies
II is quite possible that the Mayor may
issue a number OF all-night licenses in ad-
dition 10 the fifteen granted by Mayor
Gaynor. Since such licenses are issued
for only a month at time, those now IN
force will run out on Tuesday.
There is no reason TO suppose that all
holding these licenses will not get re-
rawals" said Mayor Kline. provided no
complaints have been made
For the last few days the Mayor mas
been besiegcd by people who want all
night licenses for other places. Police
commissioner Waldo had long talk with
the MAYOR On the subject yesterday.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
HOMECOMING FROM EUROPE
Kronprinzessin and Olympic
Crowded with Notabilities.
tBy Cable to The Tribune.

London. Sept. 24-The White star
liner Olympic, which sailed to-day from
Southampton, had a list Of $50 FIRST
cabin passengers. including John D.
Archbold, Walter Kelly. Mrs. Philip
Martineau, Judge Marley NJ. Platzek
Mr.. and Mrs L. T. Stotesbury. Lord
Robert InnesKer, Chauncey NJ. Depew
jr.. Ogden Cochrane. Senator Clark. d.
William Henry Furness. Sir Albert
Mond. Mr. and Mrs. Charles z. Havi-
land, Mr.. and Mrs Robert L. Parrish
Rodman Wanamaker, Mrs. Edward
Rothschild. Mrs. George W. Lederer,
Mr.. and Mrs. Bennett King. Miss Marie
Lloyd, Mr.. and Mrs. Charles Steele.
Misses Nancy and Kathryn Steele.
Devereux Milburn. Mrs. Woods Quin-
tard and Mrs. Bernard Dillon.
Among the Kronprinzessin's Ceciles
passengers are Henry T. Sloane, Judge
and Mrs. David r. Manning. Mr.. and
Mrs. Walter Damrosch. Mt and Mrs
Putnam Griswold, Miss Olga Neither
sole, William +. Newhall and Mr.. and
Mrs. Henry W. Taft
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
LEAVES HUSBAND DOLLAR
He Brought Only Sorrow Into
Her Life, Testatrix Says.

Mrs Maud II. Neal Williams. who
wrote for New York publications under
the name Of Maud Neal" and who
died at Crawley Downs. England. on
June 10 last, left 81 in her will to her
husband. Charles W. Williams. with
this explanation:
II direct that not more than ~ be
paid to my husband, Charles w. Will
Jams, for reasons well known to HIM
self. He is the worst influence that
ever came into my life. and brought me
nothing but sorrow and trouble"
The will Of Mrs. Williams was filed
in the Surrogates' Court yesterday.
She left $1,000. She asked that her
funeral be simple and inexpensive and
expressed a preference for cremation.
She left so for the purchase Of a re-
membrance for her father George A.
Neal. Of Kansas City.
She said the amount should not be
taken as meaning a "smallness OF af-
lection, but simply. being a man, he is
not in need OF any money" The tes-
tatrix left SO for a similar purpose for
her friend. Florence Patek. who also is
TO have her furniture. She left her
library TO Roy Atkinson. and divided
the rest of her estate among her
mother. brother and sister.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
TO VOTE FOR A PRESIDENT
Chinese Parliament Makes
Progress with Constitution.
From The Tribune Rureau

Z rom ! ne lFAUln' pNi'"N
Washington. Sept 2-AccordinS 10
news received here from China progress
IS being made by the Parliament In
Picking on the now constitution. and II IL
expected that before long affairs VIII be
ready for a Presidential election. The
g, stem on which the President Will he
elected is different from that I'm most
countries. There will be no casting OF
votes by the people for a given candi-
date. the election being. as In France. in
the hands OF the members OF the Psriia-
ment.
According to tho press dispatches the
drafting committee for the constitution
has resolved that an electoral college
shall be organized for the Presidential
election. for which IL shall be necessary
that there shall be tWo-thirds majority
~ a quorum consisting OF three-fourths
81 the total membership OF both houses
n after voting twice no candidate Is
elected the two obtaining the greatest
number shall be submitted TO a vote ana
the one Of these securing majority shall
be declared elected.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
MEDIATION IN DUBLIN
Lord Mayor Active in Efforts
to End Labor Dispute.
TBy cable 10 The Tribune. J

London. Sept. 25-There is now
perceptible rift in the Dublin labor
cloud. Augustine Birrell, Chief Secre-
tary for Ireland. has invited Sir George
Askwith TO visit the city, and the Shief
Industrial Commissioner will be there
on Monday To preside over joint con-
ference of employers and strikers and
Dublin Trades Council delegates. TINS
conference has been convened ny the
Lord Mayor Of Dublin. who proposes as
reasonable basis OF compromise the
reinstatement OF all strikers. the With
drawal Of the pledge the men We're
asked TO sign. a two years compact
against any sympathetic strike ana an
undertaking to submit questions OF the
conditions of labor to a permanent con-
citation board TO be set up.
The first trade union relief ship. with
a cargo Of S25 900 worth Of food, is be-
ing loaded in Manchester by men on
strike there. but will not he ready TO
sail before tomorrow night or Satir-
day morning.
While the workers are thus orgd1iH-
ing relief the capitalists are not re-
naming inactive. An association has
been formed under the title OF tho
United Kingdom Employers Defence
Union. with the object OF consoliaa ting
the resources OF the employers ana
maintaiui their rights and their free
dom to deal Tor not TO deaD with work
ers and trade unions. IT is intended
70 create fund Of S2JOOO0.OOo each
member Of the union, which has iniu-
entail support, being invited TO guar
antee a sum commensurate win ms
position i'm the commercial world
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
TOTAL ABsTAINERs EXPELLED
German University Gets Rid of Non
Beer Drinking Students.

Greifswald. Germany, Sept 24-The
expulsion on account of their total alb
stinence principles Of a number of stu
denta from Greifswald University. one
OF the Oldest in Germany. founded in
1856, has caused a sensation here The
students, numbering about 1000. were
called together in June to attend typi-
cal beer evening" in celebration of the
jubilee of the Emperor Williams reign.
at which the rector presided Several
abstalners protested and were thereupon
reprimanded by the officials. who de-
clared their protest an Indictment to ac-
ton against academic customs"
one of the abstainers criticised the
reprimand and was sentenced by the au-
thorities TO three days confinement in
the university dungeon. Further pro-
tests by other students led to even more
drastic steps being taken by the author
ities, who at once expelled two of them
and summoned four others 10 take their
trial before the university officials.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
CARNEGIE GIFT CONDEMNED
Metbodists Censure University for
Accepting Million.

Jackson. Mo, Sept. 2i.-The st. LOUIS
conference OF the Methodist Episcopal
church South to-day adopted resoln-
zion condemning the trustees OF Wander
but University. Nashville. Tenn, for &C
cepting a 81 oOO. 900 endowment from An
drew Carnegie The adoption of the reso-
Irtion was preceded by spirited debate.
The acceptance OF the Carnegie endow :
ment. which was to enlarge the medical
department OF the university was vetoed
by the Board of Bishops OF the church
on the ground that the Carnegie en-
dowments are conditioned on the bene-
dciary colleges being independent Of sec
tartan control The trustees decided TO
ignore the veto OF the bishops and TO
contest in the courts for their right TO
control the university.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
GARR0S TELLS OF FLIGHT
Motors Stopped Twice During
558-M Mile Journey.

Bizerta. Tunis. Sept. 24-The great
flight yesterday OF Roland G. Garros. the
French aviator. across the Mediterranean
from ST. Raphael. France. TO this port,
distance Of 55S miles. was OF a much more
adventurous character than at first ap-
peared. The motor OF his aerOplane was
taken TO pieces to-day and several serious
defects were found. one Of the segments
was completely burned and other parts
had been rendered useless.
Garros, in describing his fight, said
that. when about sixty miles from the
French coast, his motor began 10 work
badly. and about the same distance from
Bizerta II stopped altogether. He then
had no alternative but to volplane into
the sea, with the chance that he might
be rescued by torpedo boats. But sud
denly the motor started again, and kept
running until he reached land.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
BACON CALLS ON BRYAN
Senator Believes Huerta Has
Been Eliminated.
From The Tribune Bureau. ]

Washington. Sept. :4.-Senator Bacon.
chairman OF the Committee on Foreign
Relations. discussed Mexico with the Sec
rotary OF State to-day. When Mr.. Bacon
left Secretary Bryan's office he said there
was no development in the situation. but
he added that Il seemed that Huerta was
being eliminated. which was what the adj
miuistration wanted. Mr.. Bacon also said
thar this government would look into the
methods adopted in any election that
Mexico might have 10 make sure OF their
constitutionallty.
The State Department Is becoming
pretty well convinced now. from advices
Of It's own and from the press dispatches.
that Huerta is not going 10 be a candi-
date at the october election. Whether he
will have a man OF his own on the ticket
is not known. The departments tele-
grams have given. II is said. the names Of
no possible candidates. That there are 10
be October elections seems assured
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
LIONS PROWL IN AUSTRIA
Also Hyenas and Wolves-Vil-
laqers Terror Stricken.

Berlin. Sept. 94.-Terror reigns among
the population of Syria, Austria arising
from the depredations Of a lioness and
her cubs and a number OF wolves and
hvenaa which recently escaped from a
menagerie, according 10 dispatches from
Gratz. The wild beasts have established
their lair in the centre Of an inaccessible
mountain region extending over 400 square
miles and have seized and devoured 200
cattle and 40 sheep.
The inhabitants will not allow their chill
dren 10 go to school In the remote dis
tricts. I'm one Of which country police
man has been missing for some time and
is believed TO have been killed. 1t Is
feared that the beasts of prey. after the
herds have been taken from the mountain
pastures. will invade the Inhabited dis
tricts in search Of food
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-25
ACTRESS CALLS AMERICA
NATION OF HYPOCRITES
English Woman Thinks Ours Is
the Only Country to Beat
Hers in That Respect.

London. Sept. 25.-sarah Brooke. the
well known actress. asked for an opin
ion OH the campaign wsged in America
against such plays as The Lure" and
The Fight agreed with the remark
made recently by Cecil Raleigh that a
dramatic author has right 70 write a
play about the white slave" traffic or
any other subject he may choose. She
said:
II am not expressing any opinion on
either OF these plays because | have
not seen them. but only on the prin-
Ciple as 10 whether the white slave
traffic should he treated as subject
for the English siege. / say IT should.
We are a nation Of hypocrites. There
is only one other nation 10 beat US, and
that is the American"