davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09
Waists With New Touches.

A MONG strictly tailored waists those
mannsh shirts with the soft turned
over collar and cuffs are popular. Usu-
ally they are made of washable crepe de
chine heavy china silk and madras In
white, and white with colored stripe.
Buttons of colored glass are very effect
i've when they match the stripe of the
silk.
In addition to the mannish silk waists
that are worn with the strictly tailored
suit the business woman will welcome
those in challis. flannel and albatross
Many of these are made In the usual
mannish style, with the front opening,
and soft collar and cuffs, but there are
very attractive models. slightly more
elaborate and more feminine. with bits
Of hand embroidery. and fancy collar
and cuffs Of satin. AS a rule. flannel is
used for the tailored waists, and pretty
challis and colored albatross for the
more elaborate models, but since all Of
them launder beautifully the light tones
need not be a bar to the usefulness Of
the blouse.
On dark-hued waists there Is always
touch of white at the neck, a frill or
yoke. The ground of the Scotch plaids
used for some of these blouses is usually
a blue, brown, green or black with the
plaid picked out in vivid stripes of red,
blue. green or yellow. Taupe, purple. old
gold and kings blue stripes appear in the
newest plaids.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09
Leftover Sandwiches.

SANDWICHES left over from an after
noon tea or reception need not be
looked upon as just so much wasted ma
ter1al. The careful hostess utilizes them
in many ways.
Ham sandwiches can be transformed
into breakfast dish simply by toasting
them to golden brown and pouring over
them cream sauce into which have been
stirred minced ham and parsley. Where
a more hearty breakfast dish is desired
allow one poached egg to two small sand
witches, arranging the eggs on the toast
before covering with the cream sauce.
For luncheon cheese sandwiches NAV be
utilized in similar fashion, mixing chop
ped hard cooked egg and grated cheese
with the white sauce Or place the
toasted cheese sandwiches around the
edge of a baking dish, fill with cooked
maccaroni and sprinkle with cheese
Try toasting chicken sandwiches and
covering with a white sauce mixed with a
few chopped mushrooms and shreds of
green pepper. If there Is any cold chicken
at hand, either fresh or canned. some
small pieces will prove a desirable addi-
ton to the sauce A little chicken soup
used in making the white sauce will re-
suit in q richer dish with added flavor of
the chicken.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

the place cards-hand painted with cupids
and hearts. Under the rosette the stems
OF iong-stemmed carnations and a spric
OF fern were slipped. with pin 10 fasten
the flowers in the corsage.
Plaster cupids. I'm marble white. Eve
inches tall and well modelled. make at
tractive place favors. Each of these
cupids carries over his arm with a color
ed ribbon a square boN-about an inch
square. Each box could contain a diff
ferent sort of trirkct-one that would
call attention to the various foihleS and
fancies of the guests. IL the hostess wish
ed Rings and doves slippers and hearts
in white and gilt china, a bundle OF tins
square envelopes made of writing paper
and tied loverwise. with blue ribbon q
little scroll containing a pertinent quota
tion-all these would be appropriate
kniclxnacks for these gifts.
There is a new sort Of poppy cracker
which is bound to please any gathering az
children on Valentines day. Thesc
end. stand on little pasteboard platforms.
They lift up from the platform 10 dis
close the other end of the snapper with
out which 10 cracker would be complete.
The Valentines day crackers are made I'M
red and are adorned with cupids, hearts
and doves.
Wonderful French dolls dressed in the
latest devices OF fashion are made In the
form of candy boxes. Some OF these.
whose clothes. to be sure, are not quite
up to the latest mark, are sold for 80 or
40 cents. The dolls dressed in the latest
caprice cost three times as much as thoss
of more moderate style. Any OF these
French dolls. filed with fine bonbons.
would be attractive valentine gifts or
favors.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

EDITED BY 4>1e~ -.Rx1@>~Q4Ao~do--->

bunch of apple blossoms: another with
violet ribbon and English violets: still
another with lilies of the valley and a
pale green rOSette.
Some Of the special st. Valentines day
boxes of candy are deliberately tied with
red ribbons to the ends and loops of
which small china doves. cupids, hearts
and rings are tied. Satin boxes. heart
shaped, painted with blushng maidens,
smiling gallants or mischievous cupids
can always be had for valentine candies.
New boxes this year are of satin in many
shapes and sizes, in pale blue. green.
rose and yellow, painted with pairs of
downy birds. These boxes are especially
appropriate to the sentiment Of the day.
for, be it remembered, in old England
it was said that the birds mated on the
14th of each February.
Heart-shaped covered baskets woven of
split reeds painted red and adorned with
red ribbon bows are also suitable for
valentine candy boxes. Some of the big
confectioners sell artistic china dishes
for holding candy. These dishes, suit
able later for fruit or flower bowls. hold
from one to four pounds Of bonbons
and are sold at prices which increase
with the sizes Of the dishes
A book Of favorite poems, photograph
of a. favorite picture or a good Japanese
print, any Of these gifts can be converted
into an appropriate valentine with a
yard or SO Of red ribbon and a valentine
card which expresses a sentiment ap-
propriate to the season.
There was never before such a supply
of unusual favOrs for the hostess at val
entfne luncheon. tea, card party or dance.
Among the table favOrs are small por-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09
A New OverSh0e Is Needed.

Nov that the slipper and the pump are
worn on all sorts Of occasions, there
is urgent need for a new sort Of overshoe
! that will solve an everpresent problem
for the woman of average means, who
| must go forth in the evenings on street
cars or in other public conveyances.
1t is a great nuisance to carry slippers
in a handbag, no matter how beautiful or
how costly the bag may be, for it is trou-
blesome to remove street shoes. At the
theater or at afternoon affairs. where the
slipping off of an overshoe is easy, a
change Of fO0tgear is impossible, and so
many of the foolish sisterhood risk their
health by venturing out on cold days shOd
merely in silk hosiery and satin pumps.
1t is true that warm carriage shoes are
sold for the fortunate possessors of
lmousines. and a few brave women do
wear them after dark on the street cars,
but they give an absurdly clumsy appear
ance that only the courageous Or the
strong minded are willing to present
F1eece-lined foot warmers trimmed with
fur are all right In the bottom of a mo-
tor car, and they are perfect when put
to their right use, but something better is
needed for the average woman and the
everyday girl.
are the only high overshoes on the market
and they are absurd when seen peeping
out beneath the hem Of an evening gown
What is needed Is a close fitting, well
made overshoe with a thin rubber sole
and thin upper lining, an .overshoe that
can be worn with an afternoon reception
gown without attracting attention to it
self. 1t should not be difficult for the
shoemakers to produce this 1onged-for
device for the comfort of the thousands
of women who attend all sorts of enter
tainments where elaborate costumng Is
required. women who can afford to dress
well and yet, perforce, must deny them
selves the luxury of carriage or taxicab.
The overshoe for the relief of those who
have no motor cars should have a pointed
toe and should be made to fit over high
heels: it should button fasten easily
and it should be comfortable. 1t should
not be too warm and it should be, above
all things, of good shape. The manu-
facturer who invents it will be sure of a
fortune if he can protect his patent
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

reverS. The upper part or the sleeve is
cut in one with the blouse. with bishop
sleeves completing their length. CuffS OF
batiste like that Of the bertha give a cap.
tivating finish to them. The skirt (of
the blouse) is one-third length. gathered
the merest trif1e, as it is mounted under
meath the gtrdle and in the back is long
enough to face in with and lose itself IN
the skirt folds.
Too much cannot be said in favor of
these coat dresses. They are conven-
lent, smart and afford a happy alternate
for the coat and skirt suit.
x
OF the latter. this one OF Miss Far
rar's is an excellent example of what
will be conservatively good throughout
the season. Other models there are OF
more eccentricity, and even of more dash,
but there is none that shows more in
dividuality and distinction or that can
more surely he relied upon to remain IN
throughout the sea sons that are so close
upon us.
The skirt has a diagonal drapery that
follows the line of the cutaway coat. and
that in back is pouched a little just where
it is caught in with the skirt proper, thus
giving the new punched effect that Is
oven more ominous of buStleS than pan
niers were of hoops. The coat fastens
wit three buttons, all below the bust.
and the collar rolls broadly back. quite
covering the arm seams on top ana lying
very fiat all around.
The same type Of coat Will he worn
as a separate garment for the coat OF
one color and material, with contrasting
skirt. seems at last to be successfully
launched. 1t has been tried out many
seasons Of recent years. only to meet
with Indifferent favor. but it is SO ad-
mirably attuned to the prevailing fashion
features that it is easy to understand
it's time has come. The most popular
scheme involves a black skirt with a
coat say of some dull but rather de-
ccided blue, or the order may be reversed.
making the skirt of blue and the coat
black. in which case it is more practical
because suitable to be worn with diner-
emit skirts Then, too. the one-color note
is favored. the skirt being OF SIX or
worsted, with the Goa tot the contrast
ing fabric, their colors matching.
Sleeveless coats, another variation
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

Among the novelties are embroidered
mulls and cotton crepes
The attractive combinations for wear
ing under or over the corset are made in
softer materials than ever
separate jabots in novel cut and of con-
sentative dimensions, fatty pieated and
fluffy, are still in good style.
The fashionable evening hat is q large
black velvet shape, with the under side
OF the brim lined with pink chiffon
Sleeves in many instances are the full
length, and are cut with a slight flare
at the wrist. making them bell-shaped
A note of severity is noticeable in the
new stationery. The lettering for ad-
dresses or initials is generally block
type.
In the new neckwear. shadow laces and
fine nets, fancy voiles and crepe de chine.
chiffon and novelty buttons are used
Very pretty are the plain net chen,i-
settles, made collarless and finished with
embroidered scallops around the neck.
Small wings placed mercury fashion.
finished with satin-covered square
buckles. are a favorite trimming on tho
new hats.
There is a new soft taffeta called fiesir
de sole. It Is so soft that a full-wtdth
thirty inches can be drawn through =
finger ring.
The most fashionable white evening
gloves are slashed above the elbow sew
eral times, and wide satin ribbon in tinR
n match the gown u Eva fflHeuG&
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

celain baskets filled with candy imita-
tons of fruit. One of these in white and
gold at each place filled with six or
eight plump rosy Strawberries would
carry out red color scheme on St.
Valentines day. Red roses carna-
a table where these strawberry baskets
sta1.d. These could be filled with mixed
fruits in candy, and porcelain basket
OF a large size surrounded with ferns
could form the centerpiece. 1t could be
filled with real fruits corresponding to
the candy fruits in the baskets. To each
of the favors tiny porcelain dove, ring,
cupid, lovers knot or some other suitable
emblem should be tied with red ribbon.
Candy flowers, too, make decorative
place favors. Roses, primroses, violets
and other flowers are reproduced to the
life In sugar sirup and can be used in
connection with real floral centerpiece.
With such decorations use place cards
with cupids and flowers
Paper cases for ices, covered with red
crinkled paper are made with china Gu
pidS laughing, aiming darts or throw
ing roses fastened to the sides of the
boxes. hiding behind folds Of the paper
or perching on the edge of the cases.
Other cases for ices are decorated with
red chiffon roses. from the heart Of the
biggest of which steps a little cupid, flies
pair Of doves or rolls q gilded china
ring.
Pretty decorations for the valentine
luncheon or dinner table can be made at
home Place cards can he decorated with
paper lace, pictures of cupids and doves
and small red paper hearts, and senti-
mental couplet written on the card will
make 1t all the more appropriate. Hearts
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

bodice il cut like Russian peasant
smock, and the underskirt is pleated
Fancy edged taffeta, plain and in Bull
garian colorings. will be greatly used for
millinerS.
In ch:tdren's new dresses and coats
sashes and belts at the knees are very
conspicuous.
The mSdish blouse is very simple. Pussy
overtrimsled designs are no longer in
good TASTE.
There IS a new fringe of the tiniest
finest beads. 1t trims gowns, purses or
candle shades.
With fae present small hats wells are
not considered smart.
The neT suits are of rich material-so
rich thai little attempt is made to in
troduce any trimming.
The brsssieres, with adjustable Shout
der straps for wear with evening gowns,
are among the new things.
White s7atiste embroidery will be much
used for this seasons summer gowns
made of CLAIM white batiste.
Very popular are the negliges OF white
brocaded crepe de chine. with broad col
lars Of p%le-colored satin.
Beautiful cotton crepes are in bordered
dress patterns. Bulgarian embroidery
is mostly used on these.
style are neing worn with skirts Of black
velvet. msire or satin.
Ibis - surely q Hsag Of fmbroiderX
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09
TRAINING A MAID FOR ROUSEWO&]M

enty hours week, with two afternoons
off every week, and no work after s
o'clock in the evening. These hours are
reasonable. Every normal woman ought
to be able to get through the work of the
day with sufficient expedition to allow
her to rest for an hour or so every after
noon. The o'clock evening limit to
work might be difficult to arrange for in
some cases, but il both mistress and
maid are good managers the maid can be
finished with her evenings work within
half an hour after the family finishes
dinner.
If the dinner hour is late the maid
should eat her own dinner before she
serves the family; she can generally man.
age to have the kitchen in order by the
time dinner is cooked. and she can get
many OF the dishes out Of the way in the
moments when her services are not re-
quired In the dining room. Out Of con-
sideration to the maid the mistress should
not call her to the dining room after the
dessert Is passed: and the family should
adjourn to the living or drawing room
for all after-dinner conversation.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

paper lace bauble if he would find favor
in the eyes of the fair.
The old. old day is still the same, how
ever, in sentiment and tradition, the
same old day that has been celebrated
for centuries in honor Of the god of love.
The manner of observing it has simply
become more complicated and extrava-
CANT in an effort to keep pace with mod
ern civilization and the high price of
comfortable living. Besides that the old
rule that a man must remain faithful
for whole year to the one valentine"
no longer holds, and the modern sender
of valentines may with prOpriety give as
many valentines as he pleases. so he
must open wide the strings of his purse
when he starts out shopping for valen-
tines. Flowers, fruit. candies. books. pic
lures, all these are suitable valentine
gifts.
Because Valentines day comes in the
middle of the last short month before
the spring, when every one is pining for
a breath of the woods, and because
flowers have always been credited with
an especial understanding of the tender
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09
FASHIONS AND FADS.
1ida

Petticoats are showing slashes at the
side.
Boas Of long-haired fur-fox. bear
sable or marten-are most fashionable.
Small round muffs are carried with
these boaS.
The new foulards have the chintz pat
tern.
Walking skirts for the country are of
corduroy.
Envelopes are wallet shaped or have
pointed flaps.
White blouses are trimmed with a con-
traSting color.
vestee effects are shown on many of
the spring suits.
Spring hats are mostly small. with
turned-up brims.
The favored length for the new coat is
about As inches.
Ostrich plumes or satin roses are used
to trim evening bats.
Crepe de chine is material much IA
vored for petttcoatS.
On some of the new suits the long
shoulder line is noticed.
Shoulder-point styles in low collars
seem to be especially good.
Afternoon frocks have pleated skirts Of
silk and tunics Of cloth.
Most attractive are the lingerie collars
and cuffs on the new suits.
The interest in suits cut in Russian
blouse style is still increasing.
Prominent in the new neckwear are low
collars with and without jabots
Fashion this season insists on fabrics
in Powered and bordered designs.
The new crepe de chine has a rather
dull surface and is slightly rougher.
On separate skirts, buttons and simu-
lated buttonholes are favorite trimming.
New voiles have a fancy stripe of the
eponge weave In self or contrasting color
The square collar reaching to the Shout
der line is a favored style for the spring
Linen and ratine are very smart for
dresses where materials are used in COM
bination.
For little girls, very smart white
dresses, embroidered in tho Bulgarian
coloringS, are shown.
For the small daughter, a pretty frock
is fashioned of brown cloth, trimmed
With embroidery in shades Of red. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

Others show more simple lines, and a few
nave only the drapery suggestion.
The sleeves of the dressier coats are
frequently in kimono shape, and MANY
are attached several inches below the
shoulder line. Some start at the elbow
and have the fullness drawn into a cuff
Deep yokes extending over onto the
sleeve are a noted feature.
ram wraps for afternoon wear have
the straight coat back, and are fastened
over at the left side front. They show
the odd cut seams
Some OF the new cape wraps are made
without sleeves, while others are cut SO
mat the hand can be slipped through. A
lew wraps are In plain-colored chiffon
and printed effects. as well as chiffon
with rich borders in Balkan colorlngs
The Balkan influence is also noted in the
coats which fasten at the side in mill
tary effect, as we'll as in the blouse coats
which have recently made their appear
ance.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09
Latest Suits for Spring

back or front. are frequently seen. The
narrow effect around the ankles is as
pronounced AS ever Some skirts are
made so scant that they have to be
Slashed.
The combination of fabrics and colors
is among the novelties. Plain fabrics
combined with brocades are specially
smart. White skirts with bright-colored
coats will be worn when warm weather
arrives.
In the three-piece suits the coat may
match the dress or may be of another
fabric. A few boleros are seen as an &C
compartment to the three-piece suits.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09
Flowers

versed in the exasting demands the lit
tie blind god makes of his devotees.
Even the old favorite. the comic val
entine, still has its place means of
initiating the youngsters with taste for
the gayly pictorial as a novitiate In
Supids service. But the gallant in years
of discretion who would fare forth on
Valentines day most now so laden with
a point lace handkerchief rather than
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-09

cut fsom stiff red paper. with bit OF
poetrs, carefully printed in ink across the
face. also make appropriate Valentine
place yards. Any Of the old standbys in
the way of verse could be used-"The
rose IL red. the violets blue or any
other familiar and sentimental bit.
At AZ successful valentine luncheon last
year the hostess hit on a new idea. The
day before the luncheon she mailed to
her oa,n address a little package for each
guest. At dessert the maid answered a
ring IA the door given by an imaginary
postman-really small daughter who
thought it a treat to be in her mothers
secrete-and appeared in the dining room
with \, trayful of packages done up with
red twine with hearts of paper used as
seals.
A Merry ten minutes followed while the
guests unfastened the bundles. Some OF
the gifts inclosed We're happily ironic on
hobbies of the guests. A woman with
weakness for sweets found "a little satin
heart sull Of bonbons. A woman with a
taste Tor pretty clothes unrolled layers OF
waxed papers to find a true CONNECTION OF
the Mlliners aria candy hat, trimmed
with candy flowers and ribbons. The un-
marri@,l guests found little pla ster cupids
one *riefding an arrow, another carving
a heart, another linking two rings to-
gether,
The cable decorations at this luncheon.
designer by the clever hostess. showed
a bank OF red carnations and asparagus
fern ~ the center of the table. Half
dozen small plaster cupids were hidden in
the graenery and flowers. To the hand
of cash cupid several streamers OF red
satin ribbons baby width, were tied, and
these Rtreamers led to each guests place,
where they ended in a rosette fastened to