Evening journal., 1913-04-12
SMART COATS NOW SOFT AND UNCANVASED
Jackets as Well as BIOuSeS
Worn With Belts and
GirdIeS

Of plaid picot-edged ribbon; another
had a belt Of mesaaline laid in folds
and finished by a tailored bow. Where
two materials are used-one for the
jacket in figured effect. another for
the skirt Of plain fabric-the result
Is very pleasing. Il was with these
modes in mind. surely, that the manu-
facturer has turned out TINS year such
wonderful variety of striped and
damask fabrics and the lovely combi-
nations seen I'm the new, charming
costumes warrant all the time and
trouble spent in making them
Similarly attractive are these COM
binations when fashioning the more
strictly tailored models Boleros in
figured silk, messaline or cotton, com
bint with skirts of similar materials
in plain weave The skirt almost
invariably. whether for maid or
matron, includes a touch Of drapery.
This feature is noticeable not only in
afternoon and evening gowns but in
street suits for morning wear Much
skill is displayed In the lines Of the
plain tailored coats Seams are
placed at most unusual places, begin
ming at the front shoulder and termin-
ating at the end Of the extension
back. There is no marked deviation
in cut Of collar Of revers, and vests
are still fashionable.
Classic colors will predominant in
spring gowns when warm weather
causes jackets to be discarded Navy
blue, gray gray and black, and black
and white, are the substantial shades
on which to place reliance The
fabrics are novel and present much
variety silk stripes i'm serge and
oheviot are a departure from the plain
weaves.
Cashmere, mousseline voile, faille.
soft taffeta and crepe for afternoon
and evening costumes will prevail. at
least until spring has given place to
summer These fabrics are so soft
and lend themselves so aptiy TO drap-
cry that they arc much IN demand.
A combination of faorics in the
gown is quite as smart as i'm the
suit The two materials are clever
ly forming the border OF the other
about the skirt, the surplice waist
front and the sleeves In paneis.
too, this combination is often seen.
Very attractive is the gown pic
tured here. IL was developed I'm brown
agaric brocade The front Of waist
and skirt, together with the collar
and cuffs, are Of tan messaline. II has
the hall-marks of the latest style.
The waist is in smart Eton effect ana
the skirt has the fashionable drapery
introduced on either side the panel
both back and front with a dress
of this design, whether II is intend
ed for early spring or summer wear.
and for afternoon or evening, wrap
on loose lines is essential. At no
time has il been possible to make this
addition to the wardrobe at so little
expense as now. To be sure. the mate
rial employed may be as rich an ex-
pensive as one can afford, but the
absence OF tailored effect obviates ex-
pense. The Balkan or Russian style
in matelasse or Pompadour silk may
be used but the wrap of the dolman
type, with its roomy sleeves and gem
erous folds, Is TO be recommended
as it Is less apt TO crush the dainty
gown beneath.
A new version Of the cape has an-
peared and is a cross between the
cape OF former days and the modern
coat. Il is fashioned in one-piece.