Bisbee daily review., 1913-12-14

Skirts are apparently as cingiug as ever, although this season much more
 material Is put into them, and cor sages are arranged in flat, dropping folds; but from the hips to the
 knees, pleats and flounees and puhs l are arranged. Or some of the latest
 models for evening gowns tunics ap-
 pear. which are nothing short of bal
 let dancers skirts. These curious tun- ics are, as rule. made Of tulle and one p.eated flounce is posed over
 another until the whole affair looks
 exactly like the old fashioned ballet skirt.
 1 One of the novelties of the season l is the panier tunic which is caught up in two places. It was originated re- eentiv by one of the Paris designers
 who since then has made a special
 ty of such skirts. It is scarcely nee. essary to mention that this fashion ! is becoming only to the ultra slea- l der women. For fat women it would ! be utterly impossible. Even on very slender women these tunies invaria i Lily look freakish and their adoption may be considered a fair indication
 of the wearer's lack of good taste.
 i One of the most freakish novelties i of the winter season is the ''Houppe. | lands" coat which originated in Paris and was placed on the market by one 1 cf the most noted designers of that city. The -Houppelands" is a fairly
 long coat with a double hem at the ! bottom, made flaring by stifening, and is clearly an outgrowth of the : Persian tunic which is still maintain ing it's popularity. Some of the more f eccentric houppelands models are layishly trimmed win frills of taf- feta or velvet and with lands of sable. ! Some of these coats are exceedingly | wide at the hem, and all of them are
 so arranged tbat they stand away from the figure be'ow the hips The l genuine houppelands coat Of olden l days was rather shcrter tram the l models now being shown in our best aeHers. They also were elaborately trimmed with friIls and ruchings and finished off with wide sleeves.
 | The new wraps look complicated. | but they are not, after one is shown hcw to make them. It is necessary in order to be fashionable, that one 1 should nave that line of gathers | straight across the back which cuts | inc figure in half, and which enc sees on half the. new coats, but It ls
 good touch if one can manage H. The long lines of drapery from shoui' der to hem are equally good II one manages to provide enough lullhess
 for tbe waist and shoulders and 10
 swirl inc material oyer the hips anu bring if up to the shoulders in troaI l Few of the new evening wraps are 1 long although the accepted new move
 n,aTt is toward a wrap that comes tC
 the ankles. This style will prooap'S
 not become popular until later i'll the ! season. ..r,,. 1 Women are loath to give up collar
 Irass houses just because the weathe' tis growing colder. Heavy coats maAe l an ugIy line next against bare necks
 Hong. although the ccepted new move
 tact with the skin is not good lol the furs. There are some very Sooo
 net and lace ruffs and collars that car $ he nut about the neck under the coal
 and eo also under the fur collar tC
 srotect both the fur and the skin'
 ] One of these is a modification or th'
 l little aoId-tasseIed folded band ot ne
 worn last year to protect the cod , collar It is, in fact, the same sort hand of folded net, finished at eael
 a,d and with Q gold tasseL But there
 is an upstanding, bored ruff or pleaI@'
 liace fastened to the part of the ne
 hand that goes about the neck. lhl
 upstapding lace protects the hec' and the collar at the same time.
 Yellow is much seen in thes' : days rast spring yellow was frs 1. extensively used in lingerie. RipDoh of yellow were run into all sorts o I. underwear and negligees. Then yeI V lou chiffon and crepe de chine Wef n used for the making Of rest rope and petticoats and chemises an ]. Dioht gowns. Yellow waists of chifio Ii and crepe de chihe were h0Ne
 n And then evening frocks and aitei 5. noon frocks of yellow appeared. Ther d are even some yellow tweed stree Il snits. Yellow is usually beeomin Y coIor. if it is skillfully handled bu
 fhere are not many skins that ar Y improved by coming into direct COT e ,act with yellow This fact IS no Is understood by most dressmakers- ] ,t almost all of the gowns and blouse st of yellow there is generous use c. cream or white tuIle at the tnroa f. There is usually touch Of bia'' IS somewhere on these yellow garment le little black velvet at the wrist ss elbcw or belt. or knot of black sr the drapery Of the skirt. gives cha ,n aeter to the color that might oths ie wise seem monotonOus.
 "a Some Of the new sweaters in Al
 vora ana shelton have collars an ss cnns of fur, and some are edged abc' sci inc bottom with fur. White is alwai e. popular color. and some of q De brilliant red, yellow, and purp