Evening journal., 1913-08-30
SOME FACTS ABOUT THE NEW FALL STYLES
Materials and COlOrS for Com
ing Season Settled at
Fashion Exhibits
GOWNS OF
OVERLAND FABRICS

For afternoon frocks large floral ef-
fects will prevail Crepe de Chine.
silk and satin, all equally soft and
lustrous. will be much favored.
The frock of the first illustration
was developed in printed silk Of tan
ground and tan and brown rose
motifs. Collar, cuffs and applied
panel are of tan silk. The chemisette
is of dotted ecru-colored net, and the
girdle OF brown velvet. The waist
has a back yoke which extends we'll
over the shoulders in front, consider
able blouse over the girdle both back
and front and attractive short sleeves
and round neck. The drapery Of the
skirt falls gracefully over the hips
and terminates in the applied front
panel. This fashion of combining
two materials in one costume will re-
main smart during fall and winter Il
will be accompanied by another whose
lallurement first created a furore IN
Paris, for, as is we'll known, every
little while Paris goes mad For
Paris TO go mad is for New York to
follow suit.
The fever of the slashed and wrap
ped skirts is not completely out of
the blood before a new one is raging.
This is the fashion of the veiled effect.
But don't misunderstood. II means
drapery of tulle, lace, chiffon, net.
or mousseline over foundation of
more or less firm texture. Il also
means a combination of diaphanous
fabrics. as lace and chiffon. with
satin. silk. crepe de Chine, or cash
mere background. These draperies
are made in tunic and pannier fash
ion. They are also arranged in
double and triple tiers. each tier fin
ished with a narrow ruching and
posed over a black or white founda-
ton, as these two tones predominate.
They are not used alone, however.
lRelief is afforded by a touch Of red.
lblue or orange at girdle or throat
lCream, biscuit or straw-colored veil
ling, touched with cherry-red. old-blue,
cerise. or orange, at corsage or hem
of drapery. is considered very smart.
Black tulle with self-edged ruffles, or
Chantilly lace, wells with charming ef-
feet a white OF black satin founda-
ton. White chiffon is draped over
shadow lace, which in turn is
suspended over charmeuse or soft
six.
White lingerie frocks. draped with
met. are also much worn The bodice
lis veiled. and a surplice closing is
almost invariably used.
Sleeves of sheer fabrics are very
fashionable, They, too, are usually
of overlaid materials. The foundation
may be of coarse or fine lace, veiled
with chiffon or tulle like that used for
the drapery of the gown. They are
finished with deep pleatings. double
but very scant, extending TO the wrist
A close-fitting white lace sleeve from
the elbow shows through the pleat-
ling. The neck is low. A fluted frill
high and wired in the back. is brought
around the neck and down the sur
lplice fronts to bust or waist, where
THE ends are finished by large rose
matching the girdle in color.
The frock of the second illustra
tion has the wired frill cleverly in
troduced. The neck is low, the fril
Terminating at the base of the v
opening. The frock was developed
in gray marquisette. The front in
serts are of lace and the girdle o.
red-and-white polka-dotted silk
Drapery, in both waist and skirt, /:
smart detail. A feature which
has grown much in favor of late, sup
planting the close-fitting neck beads
| lis the long chain. Beads, however
remain fashionable. but the strings
are long and extend we'll over thu
bust or to the waist.