Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

"HERE was time when even the
fastidious woman was not particu-
lar as to the appearance and MT or
her collar. With the increased wearing
Of collarless dresses, however. the col
lar when it is worn must fit perfectly.
must be moderately high and tight and
must be neatly fastened and adequately
stiffened. So If you are making collar
and guimpe begin with the most impor-
tant part, the collar
With a paper pattern as guide cut
the collar from cheap lawn or some other
cotton material Turn under a hem at
each side and at the backs and try on the
collar. If 1t is not big enough. add two
pieces at the back. II 1t is too tight
around the top and too loose around the
bottom take a little tuck. tapering from
top to bottom, about three inches from
the back on each side. If 1t is too loose at
the top and too tight at the bottom. take
two tucks tapering from bottom to top.
When the cotton collar fits perfectly.
| as 1t can be made to fit even by one VINO
has never before made a collar If time
and care be taken, cut the corrected pat
tern from a piece of stiff brown paper
The collar should lap at the back about
half an inch, although in the case OF lin
gerie collars, which may shrink with their
first washing, 1t is quite permissible to
lap them full inch to begin with
Double this corrected pattern and place
the fold on lengthwise fold of the ma
terial from which the collar is to be made
Cut it. allowing for seams at top and bot
tom and back. The backs should be FIN
ished with hens quarter of an men
, wide. The top should be finished with
| narrower hem. The bottom can be hem
med and then felled to the neck OF the
guimpe, which has been finished with
| a bias banding: or the bottom of the col
lar can be trimmed carefully, rolled ana
| whipped closely to piece OF fine en-
| embroidered seam beading. The lawn or
batiste on which this beading is embroid-
| cred should be trimmed closely and neatly
| from the side whipped to the collar me
! other side of the beading should be fas-
! tened to the neck Of the guimpe in a
| French seam.
| II the collar is made Of tucked material
the tucks should run around the neck, as
upright tucks bulge and make the neck
| look thick and awkward.
| If the collar is to be made of lace inser-
ton the insertion should be basted care
fully to position on the paper pattern.
lime draw I0TSdu Ill OHt Siuc VI SoNi'
length of insertion should be carefully
pulled to make the lace curve SO that 1t
lies fat and evenly on the pattern. After
the insertion is basted in place 1t should
be overhanded strongly and neatly to-
gether. Fine beading may be used to fas-
ten a lace insertion collar to the guimpe.
Lace edging. If it is used to finish the top
| Of the collar, should be slightly gathered
| with its own drawstring and then over
handed to the top of the collar.
| When the collar is finished cut out the
guinpe haste the shoulder and other
seams and try it on. Lap it In the back
| the same distance the collar is Tapped. If
there is to be a bit of dickey or yoke
which will show at the throat of the
dress under which the guimpe is worn the
underarm hastings should be ripped out.
the shoulder seams and other seams
pressed and the guimpe spread out fiat.
The yoke or dickey can then be applied In
Its proper place. which should be marked
off with a pencil when the guimpe is
tried on. After the yoke is in place the
underarm seams should be stitched.
| The guimpe. If it is scanned and ntted,
should be fastened at the back with hooks
and eyes. If it is not closely fitted-if.
for instance. it is made of net or chiffon