Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-30
Marrow Silhouette Every Garment

/, great ter narrowness. They are certainly
not wider than they We're last summer.
and the extremely smart ones are mar
rover. This does not only pertain to
evening gowns and elaborate afternoon
frocks, but 1t pertains to street suits.
Naturally it is easier to give slenderness
and grace to a street suit made with thin
material which is slightly draped to on
set any awkward lines than to handle
thick cloth in the same way. The result
of narrowness In the latter is almost sure
to give ugly effects but narroWness IN the
former has somewhat OF charm when II Is
worn by the right woman.
One thing Is certain: That the exclu-
sive gowns designed in France and Amer
lea are not intended for the average
woman. and their designers do not WISH
EN- to be worn by SUCH. The art1Stlc
creator of a gown Is exceedingly discour-
aged If 1t is bought by the woman VINO
cannot carry 1t Off: she hates to see her
creation in the hands of one VINO does
not show 1t Off to advantage, ana VINO,
therefore cannot reflect credit on her
skill One would think that woman
would be careful before choosing a mar
row skirt to find out II she can walk
In it and cary 1t of with grace ana as
tinction, but very often the woman VINO
has the highest ambition to look fashion,
able has the least chance OF doing SO.
With all her money she is the bane OF the
dressmaker who has real ambition and
a soul above the mere making OF money.
Any one who advises the narrow skirts
of this season as a fashion for every one
to take up is bad friend and q person
without a conscience. It is quite true
that the American women as well as the
English have grown into the art OF wear
ing the narrow skirt faster than any one
thought it was possible; the Anglo-Sax-
ons have developed in three years diff.
ferent silhouette, form Of walking,
method of carrying the shoulders and
head that has amazed and astounded the
most astute student Of the effect OF FASH
ion on the human figure.
Where a hundred women could wear
the narrow skirt at it's first appearance,
10, 600 women can wear 1t now. and It's
continuance as fashion 10 developing
new recruits every day. The designers
think that it IL here to stay for years.
although they admit that it is not posi-
BILE for it to get narrower, and 1t Is not
probable that it will be continued after
this summer In its present FORM
There are so few entirely plain skirts
this year that it Is possible for thin ma
terial to be used for even the most com
monplace walking costumes. Take, for
instance, the new watered poplin. whlcn
is an enchanting material and Will be
worn by a number OF women VINO nave
had its advantages demonstrated to them
by the dressmakers. 1t comes especially
in different shades OF tan and putty ana
straw color. but it can be found in blue,
white and black. 1t is exceedingly supple
and soft 1t lends itself to drapery and
to the new kind Of coat which does not
show a suggestion Of masculine influence,
and which con only be made out OF soft
fabric.
The skirts Of these MORE popiin suits
are slightly full at belt and over the
hips and back, and then drawn up around
the knees in some kind Of drapery which
is not binding and gives the effect OF full
ness, leaving the narrowness to exploit
itself in the hem.
The coat shows ingenuity. 1t is short
but no two are Of; tss same length. and
some are belted and others are loose;
many have waistcoats and others have
narrow revers that stretch into high
turnover collar faced with q contrasting
satin. In oyster white as we'll as in chalk
white, these watered poplins Will take the
place Of serge among women WHO are
looking for novelty In white suits. They
are lighter weight than serge and there
fore much cooler and more suitable to the
American climate in summer. They clean
as easily.
Unless they are made in the mannish
way that Is usually taken up for white
serge suits they are not available Tor
rough and ready wear, but then they
are not good looking with plain skirts and
coats; the material is too soft for a gored
skirt that has no drapery or pleating.
The white poplins serve for all those
numerous occasions from May to October
that once called for a lingerie frock, but
for which thin coat suit is now more
fashionable. One can make these coats
as dressy as ones opportunities demand
When the fronts are turned back on the
body of the coat across the nlps IN the
style Of the French guard coats, and the
facing is Of bright color which Is again
used as a facing to the high turnover
collar. the suit is instantly enlivened
and made suitable to the afternoon.
Brass buttons as we'll as silver ones,
In bullet shape, are used on the fronts
of these coats, which give them more
than ever the appearance of the uniform
during the early Napoleonic wars. This is
heightened by the appearance OF the new
kind of blouse, which has peplum,
wide belt and is fastened we'll up over
the bust, single breasted. with bullet but
tons AS few of the new coats fasten ex-
cept at the waist line. If there. this blouse
resolves itself into waistcoat, ana OF the
latter there is no end. They are worn
with all kinds of suits, from sober dark
blue serges to the gayest ones OF white
water silk.
Among the most-talked-of frockss or
coat suits are those of iridescent silks,
some of which have an unpleasant sug
gestion of stiffness. They closely re-
semble taffeta In it's latest phases OF
weaving If coat suits are made of this
silk they are excessively ornate: there