The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1913-05-25
SIMPLE LINGERIE
MADE AT HOME
Girls Enjoy q Personal Share in Max
ing Wedding Trousssau.

ing Wedding Trousssau.
Even the girl who puts most of her
trousseau into the hands Of a profess
sionai will enjoy making some Of her
lingerie. There is q growing fancy to
say such things are better bought Per-
haps. II one has little leisure and plenty
Of money. Wonderful bargains can be
picked up In night dresses for instance,
out the late styles and elaborate ones
are apt to be expensive.
For making a crepe night dress get Q
double width crepe de chine-they aver
age about forty-two inches-and buy
| enough for twice your length and four
inches extra for hens Thus, a woman
VINO measures fifty-four inches from
throat TO the ground will need three and
one-eighth yards OF crepe and two yards
Of lace or frilling for trimming.
The price OF the crepe de chine varies
according to quality and width. II
comes as low as IS cents a yard, but
as the night dresses need constant tub
| bing 1t pays to get better grade. The
cost of the trimming is up to the irdi-
vidual home dressmaker.
The veriest novice in sewing should
be able to make these smart robes de
| mutt, as they are built on a kipnono pat
tern. As the lines are scant and the ma
terial is double width. there are no cores
at the bottom Of the night dress to
bother with.
II is better to buy kirnono pattern.
but the expert could cut her gown by
doubling the material across with both
halves equal, then double again in a
lensthwise fold and with an old night
dress for guide as to neck opening and
| length of sleeves cut just as one did the
first frocks Of infancy. those that slipped
on over the head and had only two
seams. one on each side
II crepe is too costly some of the fine
| cotton crepes in delicate colors make a
pretty substitute: so do the colored silk
muslins- The white cotton crepes are an
admirable choice II much travelling Is to
be done this summer or IL laundering
counts. simple finish for neck and
sleeves is band of inch and a half wide
batiste or solid embroidery.
When solid embroideries are used turn
UP the edges of the night dress on the
right side a quarter of an inch, turn in
| the edges of the banding. haste Il so one
edge comes on the turned up edge Of
the crepe. This does away with facinEs
Join the banding in the middle of the
| front and at seam of sleeve
A Good Substitute.
About a half inch TO each side of seam,
on neck trimming, buttonhole a slit
through which ribbon is run as a casing.
The seam is thus hidden under the bow
and the neck may be drawn UP as de-
sired
Some women will wear nothing but
cambria or similar cotton goods for night
gowns. Nothing gives better satisfac-
ton than a soft-finished nainsook at
about 20 cents a yard. LongcIoth Is dur
able and yet quite sheer. and battste is
Lawn Is much used, but the cheaper
grades are coarse. and none is as soft
as nainsook or batiste.
The kimono pattern used for the crepe
de chine night dresses Is equally good
for the cotton ones. From four to four
and half yards of thfrty-six-inch ma
terial is needed Unless you like a scant
gown. a gore must be added at each
| OF the side seams. This should be six
inches wide at the bottom and taper
to nothing at the top. the gore being
about twenty-seven inches long finished.
In cutting. allow enough for the hens
Join with narrow French seams.
Where the plain kimono lines are not
becoming. run a group of three one-quar-
ter-inch tucks in the material starting
the first one three inches and half
from the middle of the goods when folded
lengthwise. and leaving a quarter inch
space between. Make a similar group
on the other side. but turn the tucks out
toward the arms in both cases
Where one has no tucked PATTERN.
double the material across. hold the pat
tern TO it. and mark where the tucks
should go in relation to the neck Tuck
enough 10 come to the bust line in front
and to end of shoulder blades. The tuck
ing finished. cut as usual.
Getting Variety in the Gown.
Variety may be given to the simple
kimono night dress by varying the shape
OF the neck: one gown could be rounded
another pointed, a third square, and a
fourth squared on the shoulders and
across back and cut into three deep
scallops in front. one directly in center
Of the neck opening. with the side seal
Tops slanting to meet the squared Shout
der lines. A different shaped scaIlop on
each gown gives further variety To
make the edge more durable after the
scallop is cut out. buttonhole a second
time through the purl.
The sleeves may also be varied by cut
ting some bell shaped, others deeply
slashed with corners rounded or square,
or in a deep point.
A simple but effective trimming Is to
Ilnsn tne cages the gown IN a mar
row hem, or even turn the raw edge on
right side and on top sew Valenciennes
lace beading with a half-inch lace over
cast to IL. This trimming Is merely
eased in sewing. II a little more decora-
ton is liked. haste three or five medal
lions across the front. below the beading
When five are used, arrange in two rows,
three on the top row.
There are several ways to insert the
medallions. but the easiest is to sew
around edge of medallion on right side
with machine, cut away material under
meath, turn back in narrow seam, and
stitch a second time. being sure the seam
is all caught. The raw edge does not
show the medallion and will not pull
out
Another smart trimming for the kimo-
no night dress is to finish the square
neck and sleeves with inch-wide valen-
ciennes insertion set on top of material
so ribbon may be run through. II a
softer finish Is liked. a three-eighths Of
an inch lace can be overcast to the edge
of insertion Then run three lengthwise
strips Of insertion over each shoulder
beyond the neck. Set an inch apart.