davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Danskeren. [volume] (Neenah, Wis.) 1892-1920, 1913-03-26

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get 3iIiIntning til Oproobet: g5GoreIanbet er 5are", fra
~fsgenoe 4rpfter: G. q. Siortsbans. 9opbels. q. Gof, N.
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8. Rpe Glen, albert eea, Minn, 8. 3. ailoiis, aennore.
q. 9of. 8. 81. Sonien, sleepp One, gann, e. e. Ioienberg,
CORDOBA, Rebr., ). 6. GarIen, YIainoieru, @ebr.
Graphing, Micb, ben %. Marts 1913.
Yeoer aieIbeoe.
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Sore. beoes oenIeft ON ooiaa at optoee obenitaaenoe r1ifIut.
nina.
Danskeren. [volume] (Neenah, Wis.) 1892-1920, 1913-03-26

:. on @uos Gam, meo aoriets
Stam,
OH bar al 8eroen5 Spn0er.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

aggerated dolman. for want Of better
term.
The cape effect is at the back. extend
ing over the shoulders. and is shaped in
long loose panels over the arm TO the
hem These protect the arms which come
through Sits in the side seams. There
is great deal OF style Ia this garment.
especially when ii is made in brown with
an orange lining. with one sleeve thrown
back army fashion. over the left
shoulder
Worth is still showing angel sleeves. ana
Callot uses them in many of her effective
dinner gowns. One dressmaker says they
are all very well II they don't get I'm the
soup. and one OF Worth's methods OF pre-
venting this, although his artistic head
would never entertain the thought. Is to
fasten the edges OF the sleeve 10 a jeweled
bracelet worn at the wrist. This is done
, with a white satin gown, which Is plainly
made except for three splendid old lace
flounces draped around the skirt The
bodice is mere wisp OF tulle and lace.
and the wing sleeve. made OF the two
fabrics. is held TO the arm by the new
bar bracelet. made OF small hrilliants set
in platinum.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
The Care of Stoves.

r FEAT new stove slowly the hrst
n few times, and do not pile coal
above the fireboX. nor allow the
ton of the range to get red hot. 1t Will
often warp and crack the top. Keep
the CRATE unclogGed by shaking Often.
Do not rush the range with oven
draft open This wastes fuel and burns
out the range too fast. Do not allow
the smoke draft to stand open except
when putting in fuel. Keep the oven
scrupulously clean; wash it at least
once week. Remove shelves and
doors before beginning the washin. >,
and scrape off all burnt substances
Leave the oven door open until dry
and all smell of soap is gone.
a range will keep black much longer
if you first rub it with soap, then ap-
ply the backing. Another way to get
the same result is to add little soap
10 the stove polish, which will prevent
grease sticking to the stove and also
give gloss to the polish. Also rub
soap. on your hands and let dry. 1t
will prevent the polish from getting
into the pores. If there are red parts
on the stove. cover them with vinegar
a drop or two OF molasses added to
stove polish Will make the stove much
come red. Wash your stove occasion
ally with turpentine and see how clean
1t will look. but be careful to have no
fire in The stove Wnen you do that, as
turpentine is an explosive. Ii the
range is carefully wiped with brown
paper after cooking greasy food it can
be kept bright much longer.
If clinkers form on the stove lining
do not try to hammer them off Or you
Will spoil the lining. Instead. burn
some oyster shells on the fire every
week and the clnkers will drop off.
a lump of lime Will answer in place of
the shells.
\ handful of zine shayings burned in
the stove when the fire is hot will pre-
vent the pipe from becoming cloggei
with SCOT The zinc melts and forms
a chemical which destroys the SCOT. Il
it is not easy 10 obtain the zinc, buy
Il dashboard and tear the zinc off; it
will well repay the outlay. You may
be able to buy small pieces of zinc
from a stove maker.
The next time you have stove to
set up and you are Obliged TO nave the
pipe cut. do not waste time in going
to a timer. but take a canopener and
cut the pipe yourself You will be sur
prised to see how quickly, easily and
neatly it is done in this way.
To mend small crack in the stove,
beat an egg and mix shoe polish and
soft ashes with it. Work the past
smooth with an old knife. Fill the
crack and smooth it over with the
knife 1t makes cement seemingly
as hard as iron, which will polish like
the stove. 1t is often used to fill
crevices around the stovepipe
All stoves that are to be put away
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
Latest Changes i'm Dress

part of the fabric fullness il is laid in
irregular pleatS gathered.
In the construction of the bodice quite
as many new and extraordinary ideas
prevail as in the skirt. The jackets and
coats of the present also come in for
their share of eccentricity in cut. They
defy all rules. having seams where
seams are least expected to be found.
and having no seams where they have
heretofore been found. In the newest
bodices and coats the underarm seam is
lacking. The shaping is done by means
of the shoulder seam or through the APP
plication of a curving yoke which eX-
tends down to form the top of the sleeve.
Unlike the kimono cut of the ordinary
form, which had no shoulder seam or
arinhole seam. but did have an underarm
seam the new bodice now has under
arm seam. but has an armhole and a
shoulder seam.
Sleeves for street wear are long. Many
of the new separate waists, we'll as
simple costumes. have full-length sleeves,
and there are also very many of the
more dressy gowns with long sleeves.
The kimono form has been retained to
some extent. but it is the kimGno set on
to the dropping or extended shoulder and
brought down into fitted form. There
are Il hundred variations of this style of
sleeve, some of which are straight-hang-
ing others fiaring and open, and still
others in the bell shape.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
FASHIONS AND FADS.

Chiffon waists are still holding favor
The elbow sleeves of lace are bell
shaped.
In cotton stuffs. crepe weaves are par
ticularly fashionable.
The fashionable sleeve for general
street wear will be long.
Belts and belt suggestions are noticed
in the new separate coats.
Illuminated leather trimming on lin
serie dresses is entirely new.
Crepe weaves are in high favor, par
ticularly in silk and in cotton.
The fnger-tip and wrist-length Jackets
are expected to dominate.
Brocades have already established
themselves in evening costumes.
Sashes Of bright-colored velvet are
edged with small silk or satin roses.
A deep pleating of white or black
net Is pretty finish to short elbow
sleeves.
The new separate coats are gene rally
three-quarter and seven-eighth length.
The new suit coats are cut in odd
fashion. with skirts frequently draped.
The latest evening dresses have been
made Of plain satin yelled with broche
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
ARTS, cores and other devices for
. the shaping of garments are elm

WARTS. cores and other devices for
II the shaping of garments are elm
mated from fashionable toilets
of the present. A length of goods is
draped about the figure to form the skirt,
the fullness being lifted or lowered at
will to form the drapery. Fabrics are
neither cut nor sewn, but swathe the
figure. They are often left open at the
hem to reveal a glimpse of the ankles,
and in the formation of the train there
is no set rule. 1t may be at the back II
It conveniently falls that way, but in
some of the new draped forms the train
goes off to the side.
The curving figure, with the natural
and beautiful lines of the body are re-
tanned in the fashions of today. In all
OF the new draped effects the skirt is
close about the feet and the fuilness
spreads just below the curve of the hips.
This fulness is often placed III the form
of hood-like or loop draperies hanging
from the belt. Such a thing as a dart
for fitting a skirt is at present unknown.
II the material cannot be adjusted to
the belt through the dropping down of a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
FASHION NOTES.

COLORED gloves are to be much
~ worn. They are shown I'm almost
every color I'm which afternoon gowns and
street suits are made, in all shades OF red
and blue, i'm green and every variety or
tan and brown. For evening wear both
suede and glace gloves to match the
gown, stockings and slippers are shown.
White glace kid gloves lined with pink
or blue kid show heavy real lace In
turned back cuff over the colored linlifS.
Black and white gloves are also smart.
Heavy white stitching shows on the back
of black glace kid gloves which have d
whte-rimmed. black-centered pearl but
tons and which show facings OF white
kid at the wrist White street gloves. on
the other hand. show black stitching, =
white pearl buttons. Black gloves with
"A pink frill of white kid at the wrist are
also in evidence.
Stockings in colors for wear with even
ing gowns are manufactured In almost
every imaginable shade. II the exact
shade OF the slipper cannot be found,
however. the stockings can be dyed to the
shade desired. Some stocking dealers
make speciality OF doing this dyeing in
a few hours time.
Silver-beaded black dull kid slippers
made with half a dozen little cut-out
straps across the instep. On almost all
low shoes, street shoes and house and
evening slippers buckles of some sort are
fastened The variety of brilliant buckles
for evening wear is almost endless. Street
and house shoes are adorned with leather
and suede-covered buckles and buckles or
gun metal, silver and gilt. either chased
or plain
Black and white as a faddish combna-
ton affects even the realm OF footwear.
Black and white house shoes-French
heeled pumps-of corded silk, the stripes
about an eighth OF an inch in width. are
among the newest shoes. The shoes are
really very striking worn with black
and white house frock.
Carriers in all the paler shades worn for
evening are made of satin ribbon and
studded with tiny rhinestones and bril-
lants.
In buying white gloves choose kid
skin rather than lambskin. IL you want
them to wear most satisfactorily.
The lingerie collars. cuffs and vest
fronts of very fine embroidered batfste
are still favorites on morning frocks.
Silk braiding promises to be i'm favor
for satin tussor suits. which means. as
braiding always does. military air
On the short coats which Parisienncs
are wearing are seen bright-colored
girdles finishing with long loop bows
News comes from Paris that white
ostrich plume boas studded with ribbon
roses are being worn on the Riviera.
Colored and ornamented heels are a re-
cent innovation from Paris. They are
imported separately and are attached 10
the desired slippers by shoe dealer.
These heels are made i'm highly enameled
black and white kid I'm pink dark and
light blue, red. green and brown. They
are decorated with stones of various
sorts, brillants and bright colored stones.
set I'm intricate designs. and with gold
and silver filigree designs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

is more secrecy between the manufac-
turers Of the two countries and we are
not able to buy their ideas, or possibly
they do not choose to sell their products
to America in the wholesale way that the
Paris dressmakers do
Now what about the styles? What do
those in the watch towers foreten? There
is nothing newer than the heralds have
already shouted. such az short coats.
pleated skirts. accordion pleating in all
manner of garments. Russian blouses,
with the hens wired to stand out like
hoopskirts. and again the long sleeve
cutaway coats are safe for another sea-
son. although the straight box coat made
of matelasse or brocaded crepe de chine
is coming back into fashion with the i'm
r.ense fur collar and cuffs. At distance
it looks surprisingly like a wadded satin
dressing room sack.
Such coats are worn over skirts OF vel
Vet or velours de laine. and IL IS said they
vii: b worn over knife pleated ones that
are quite plain and narrow.
Paul Poiyet Is showing such q suit made
of Parma violet velvet and cloth. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

gaze de sole. or of rich metal brocade
draped with mouSSeiine.
Some of the new short suit coats are
bolero in front and cutaway at the back.
Printed silks will hold prominent
pace in the fashion OF the spring sea-
son.
IN some of the newest bodiceS and coats
the underarm seam no longer exists.
The pronounced change in skirt
draperies is the lifting of the fullness in
the front
Sheer hatiste in new embroidered de-
signs bids fair to be u favorite this com
ing season.
The Russian STYLES bid fair to be quite
a pronounced feature in the spring fash
ions.
A new and attractive material. serge
ottoman composes many new chic tailor
suits.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

blouse with long tight sleeves. The tur-
ban of beaver to match, with Its en-
broidered front, completed this decidedly
eastern costume.
She is now using this hip sash on even
ing gowns OF brocade or plush and is re-
Introducing it on one-piece frocks with
charming effect. Sometimes the sash re-
mains in the color of the gown, which
is the taste one would expect from Che
ruit. yet her imitators have seen in it
their chance for color combination and
they make 1t in brilliant tones. Premet,
for instance, whose color sense Is amaZ-
ing, has introduced the sash in gorgeous
oriental silks which seem to be cut from
a mandarins robe.
There is no doubt that this sash in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
Short Cuts for H0Ws@k@@p@rs

must be cleaned inside and out and
thoroughly rubbed with linseed or
kerosene oil and wrapped in newspa-
pers
When a fire is too slow the cause is
usually due to a lack of draft. When
building fire always place the sticks
of kindling SO that they will lie in Op-
posite directions. Pile the coal on
lightly. There is nothing that chokes
a stove or furnace more quickly than
paper. so do not use 1T as a fuel. and
only sparingly to start a fire. l a fire
is merely low, teaspoonful OF sugar
will revive it. Old fryings can be used
for the same purpose
4 cheap homemade llindling may be
made as follows: Soak some cOrncobs
or saturate sawdust with the crudest,
cheapest kerosene that you can buy
and keep in cool place far away from
all fires. Dip out a little Of the saw
dust or a cob into newspaper put 1T
into the stove under the wood. and 1T
will burn quickly and long enough to
give the wood good start
Throw several handfuls of salt
around on the sides and bottom of the
oven a minute or so after lighting the
burners Of new gas range oven,
otherwise you will be smoked out of
the kitchen. Besides, it will save gas
and you will be able to use the oven
tainted.
Do not waste gas and fill the air with
poisonous vapors by turning the gas
too high. The food cooks no better,
often burns, and dishes are injured
when cooked over the high flame. When
the tray of a gas stove is badly soiled
it can be cleaned with a rag wet with
kerosene. Then it should be rinsed
with clear water.
The furnace of a steam-heated house
will prove the most rratic piece of
household furniture Imaginable unless
properly managed. To start the fire,
clean the furnace thoroughly, leaving
no ashes. place the lengths of kindling
crosswise and not too compact, put
coarse coal on and ignite the wood
AS soon as the water boils and the
water pipe is automatically closed.
then close all base doors and open the
front door. SO that the coal will burn
mere slowly.
For a quick fire. such as one wants
at first, close the front door and open
those at The base, causing Il strong
draft. The principle is not unlike the
firing of a coal stove for kitchen use
Instead of allowing the fire to die down
up until the furnace is very hot. then
cover with slack for the night. When
stirred in the morning. you Will find
bed Of live Goals ready to start a
quick fire without wood To utilize
superf1uous heat, build u ring of brick
two or three bricks high around the
edge on top of. your furnace and fill
the inclosed space with sand. This will
check the immense amount of heat
directly above the furnace which other
to circulate up to the rooms through
the hot-air pipes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

deep oriental sash which Cheruit intro
ducsd six months after the pannier. AS
for crepe de chine. plain. striped, with
Persian pattern or Jacquard design.
there Will evidently be no end OF II. We
may become wearied OF it as we now
are of taupe. which remains lovely, but
has lost by familiarity.
When one shop could display seventy
two tones Of 1t in one day it was too much
for even an artistic color. and since then
the fastidious woman has grown shy Of 1t.
Paris. however. has not, and ii is probable
that the same thing Will happen now as
has happened before. in that a color or a
garment Will have second and a stronger
life. Seal brown is its riva. as far as the
French houses are concerned. and the
American women are recognizing lis
beauty as the season progresses.
Satin dinner gowns in deep seal brown
are considered unusual and artistic,
especially when they are touched up with
that qudDr prismatic orange or dull
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
New Collar and Cuff Sets.

A SET of turnover collar and cuffs are
carried out rather uncommonly in
black velvet. with a hemstitched edge.
These are intended to be worn with an
otherwise ephemeral BLOUSE that is long
sleeved and high at the throat, and make
a smart contrast Another set is in soft
est, finest black net. with a straight hem
embroidered in many colored silks in tiny
cross stitch. which is still smarter. a
third set is of very. very finely tucked
lawn, the tucks running acros and across
the edge being finished with an almost
invisible ruche of thdA1awn.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
Correct Way to Make
a Gwinnlp@ and Collar

1t can be gathered about the waist with
drawstring run in a casing OF silk seam
binding and fastened at the back with
buttons.
The collar may be fastened with small
hooks and eyes, sewn close together, or
with small pearl or crystal collar buttons.
and loops buttonholed over two or three
strands OF cotton thread
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12
= WHAT WELL DRESSED WOVEN Will WEAR

many forms will play a large role in the
early spring costumes. 1t will be used in
the original form. which is quite becom-
ing over the slender hip. natural or other
wise. of the fashionably shaped woman.
Worn in this way it touches the waist line
at the top, passes across the hips from
right to left and is knotted at the left
side of the back, with the free ends heav-
lily weighted with bands of fur or velvet
or brocade. Beer is using Ii as a straight
away girdle, which holds the waist in
quite tightly and extends for four inches
above 1t: one end passes under the girdle
and falls In a fringe half way to the
knees
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

Even some of the new topcoats that
have been worn at the races in Paris
show a form Of this sash in a five-inch
band that goes straight across the front
and ends with buttons beyond the under
arm seam: and. by the way, this same
coat introduces a combination of cape and
angel sleeve that might be called an ex-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

r have rather a
good method In
America of going
slowly on new fab
rics until the pub
lie gives a verdict
and then multi
plying the product.
This has been the
case with ratines
and with rough
weaveS of all kinds.
Paris began using
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

jacquard design in colored floss. The hat
matches the muff.
Cheruit, who has been introducing
quite number of novelties in the last
few years, whether because she chooses
to depart from the elegant convention
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

velours de laine, chamoiS cloth and Farl-
Gus ratines two Years ago last August
but they were imported in small lengths
to this country and made no headway
during the first winter season
In the spring cotton ratines were
brought out in quantities and the public
received them with sufficient enthusiasm
to make them pay; this last August
when the French again showed the same
fabrics as those of the year before. Amerl-
cans took them up and flooded the mar
kets from New York to Texas with them
They were yariously called. Those who
sold them gathered them under the gen.
eral name OF ratine and chinchilla. bot
all the Paris weaves were here
II looks as though they would remain
in fashion until next January. II one
Judges by what the manufacturers say
and not by what Paris will decide next
August. No matter what Paris does de-
eide the fabric will probably share the
same fate as the ratine and velours DE
laine Of two years ago. by being ignored
over here.
Whatever We are wearing now Is OF
small importance in the way OF news
for the new spring fabrics will be modei-
ed after the present ones. Cotton ratine
will be reinstated. and 1t is probable that
it Will be popular as white linen ana
more serviceable, in that II does not
crush. It will come in the different SHADES
Of blue, also in white. in violet, In brown
and black Suits OF the latter are very
smart especially when worn with fine
white biouses, with a touch OF black at
the neck and a black and white hat.
There will also be silk ratines, crepe de
chine, a new kind of wolfe and a cotton
charmeuse, which II is claimed will give
much the appearance of the charmeuse
satin. which has served us well for sew
egai years.
THIS new wolfe will be quite attractive,
foP &C 10 covered with a jacquard weave
which has been revived after ten years
absence from the loom Everything has
this Jacquard design this winter. 1t was
podbahay brought out first on matelasse,
anA women liked 1t so much that 1t has
bsD introduced into silks and cotton fab
rsoo for spring and summer. There Is
one Ga1k which has 1t in which are woven
nine Inherent colors, and the result is not
- fantastic as one might think.
Thsre are also cotton voiles with deep
aUne4o borders in colors or plain, which
~ be used az an edge to tunics and for
The hem Of the skirt, and also for that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

atty of her past or because Of her part
nership with a famous German designer,
has brought out the oriental sash in a
dominant and attractive way. She used
| it last August, but the public did not care
| for it. The Americans avoided 1t and only
the smart Russian and French women
took 1t up.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

THE RETURN OF LACE IS MOST
EMPHATIC IN HOUSE GOWNS. THE
SKETCH SHOWS A GOWN CAT RIGHT)
MADE, OF LACE FLOUNCES OVER A
WHITE ACCORDION-PLEAT CHIF
FON SKIRT
THF, WRAP SHOWN AT LEFT is
OF ROSE PINK MATELASSE, WITH
COLLAR AND CUFFS OF SKUNK.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

The first gown she showed which had
this sash was initiative Of a Turkish cos
tune The skirt was gathered at the hips
and bagged over a slim, narrow founda-
ton from knees to ankles, and there was
a wide sash over the hips and boiero
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

Silk braiding promises to be i'm favor
for satin tussor suits. which means. as
braiding always does. a military air.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-12

On the short coats which PGrisiennes
are wearing are seen bright-colored
girdles finishing with long loop bows
The Washington times., 1913-09-11
eeef "a ToaIi

|. LONDON. Sept I<t1
ton that the. British & - 8
thematiscd and sung 9f(Jt
Be replaced. with re- -
eentine-Eng1tsh tn nal1oo q = 6 S