The Washington herald., 1913-10-12

the new pink tones are said TO enter into
| the afternoon and evening gowns almost
| to the exclusion Of all other colors while
| the going-away gown is reported TO be
the very latest shade OF brown, or tete
d'negre, in a rough-surface fabric just
evolved by an ambitious American manu-
facturer who proposes making American
wOoIens famous.
Mrs. Marshall. wife OF the Vice Presi-
dent. who has passed the greater part of
the summer in Washington, accompany
ing her husband on numerous short trips
of a semi-official character, promises TO
maintain her reputation of last spring as
the best-gowned matron OF the White
House circle. Mrs. Marshall for street
wear keeps close to the two-piece suit,
which is too convenient TO be discarded
by a busy woman and frequent traveller.
even though the one-piece gown with
basque top is already taking first place
with many fashionable women.
The Vice Presidents wife is wearing
one OF the new rough surface woolens in
autumn weight and of the dark green
coIoring that may be blue or purple in
terwoven in several tones Of soft. warm
gray The result is a most attractive
shade that defies imitation and is dis
tinctly of today. The skirt Is narrow, Of
course, but neither slashed or hobbled;
just a well-made narrow skirt escaping
the ground by one inch, with a fat tunic
of the same, and one of the smartest
half-length coats as yet seen in the vi
cfnity OF II and Fifteenth Streets.
Topping this Mrs Marshall wears a
small black velvet hat. one of the truly
first-class hats Of the early autumn.
Now that the majesty OF the law has
actually arisen to regulate feminine at
tire the dress reformers may take heart.
although this column has no reason to
believe any Cabinet officer or the Presi-
dent himself can tell women how to
make. buy, or wear their clothes.
The first step in what we may call ma
tionaI control came in the last week with
Mr. McAdoo's order to custom inspectors
to prevent the importation consequently
the wearing) by incoming travellers OF
"aigrettes, egret plumes, or so-called os-
prey plumes and the feathers, quilts.
heads, wings, tails, skins, or parts OF
factured. and not for scientific or edu-
cation6l purposes"
With such a sweeping inroad in hat
trimmings. no wonder there is a new note
in millinery. Every woman knows, and
most men who pay the bills have long
suspected, that the aigrettes, ospreys.
numadis, and fantasies that Rdorn the
best of imported hats owe their vogue
as much to the skill of the manufac-
urers as to nature. French thrift and
art combined have long made many an
humble barn yard fowl to yield fine
plumage literally worth its weight in
gold II is not fine birds that invariably
make fine feathers in the millinery
world.
With Mr.. McAdoo's order put into ef-
feet. even those aigrettes and manufac-
tured feathers already in use will lose
much of their prestige. for the clever
ones of the fashion world have had their
ear to the ground, and already in Paris
and London flowers Of wondrous beauty
have sprung to favo- as the trimming
par excellence of the smart velvet hats
due in Washington about December l.
There are, of course, already in use vel
vet hats, feather trimmed. plumed.
winged, and tailed, to fall into the Ian
guage of the new tariff bill. Some of
these are smart and handsome and war
ranted to keep their style all winter;
others, the great majority, unfortunate
ly. neither smart handsome. or becom-
ing. will undoubtedly before Christmas
be discarded by women of taste with
means to crafty the same. For a vel
vet had purchased in August, in the very
nature Of things, cannot be acceptable
in January.
In color, the smartest velvet hats are
all black, this one note in correct dress
ing remaining unchanged since the in
PRODUCTION of the all-black hat of the
summer, which proved universally be-
coming.
Mrs. Payne Whitney. the former Helen
Hay, of Washington. is one OF the ex-
elusive young women who refuses to dis
card the coat suit, as shown by the
quite severe tailored costume in which
she applauded the playing of the Giants
at the Polo Grounds in New York on
Wednesday.
Young Mrs. whitney's coat and skirt
were Of gray mixed cheviot, very well
cut of course, as she can command the
best, but without any establishment. The
skirt, made with full plait in the back,
was short enough to show the well shod
feet of its wearer, and the coat just
trife below the hips The coat was fas-
tened by three self-colored buttons; but
tons also marked the seams at the back
With this Mrs. Whitney wore a round
hat of the improved sailor model, trim
med in broad ribbon loops and bows
The hat was a black velour with the
ribbon a Harmonious blending Of mauves
and greens.
One of the conspicuous changes in
color Is the revival Of the old-time dark
blue. to supersede the now discredited
kings, or royal blue, and all the kindred
shades brought about two or three years
ago. The present day blue of first quail
ity is very slightly different in color from
the everyday navy blue, reliable in wear