davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

natural result that the Parisiennes OF
the great world threw them aside. Now,
however. we have again in our midst
these mysterious combination garments
for evening wear.
/ spent some time in the vestibule OF
the Casino Bellevue watching the long
string OF lovely women entering the ball
room, and / was much struck by the
charm of the richly embroidered gauzes
and fringed crepes. one beautiful Spar
tsh woman who In an Intimate friend of
the young Queen wore really wonder
full gown composed of shot gauze. which
showed shades of dull pink and silver
and was mounted on sheath robe OF
apricot crepe. The hem of the crepe
underdress was delicately traced over
with silver threads; the border of the
gslze tunic-~it was really almost as
long as the underdress- magnih-
Gently embroidered and fringed in sill
yer: over this was thrown loose robe
of black chiffon which had a few giant
irises in white and purple painted on
one side: this robe was frlnged with the
finest possible Jet The owner of this
| lovely gown was tall and stately; she
wore an immense picture hat In black
velvet and had a wide stole Of black fox
thrown over her shoulders.
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

be Of satin. velvet or crepe, show large
and striking designs thrown against a
strongly contrasting ground. Black vel
vet giant flowers on q ground of flame
red satin. for instance. or conventional
designs In vivid shade OF emerald
green on silk crepon of the favorite
pearl gray tint are seen.
In certain sense the coming autumn
will he an easy season for women OF
limited means. Beautifully pleated skirts
can be purchased at any of the big
Magasins de Nouveautes and such little
sleeveless coates as that shown in my
drawing can be made from a first rate
pattern by an intelligent dressmaker.
Ii In always an easy matter for an in
tellgent woman To arrange a series OF
different costumes when fashion permits
her to wear three piece models" The
READ difficulty comes when sheath roee;
or princess dresses are the only pos
sibie.
This season the Partisan dressanakers
are obtaining wonderful effects by a
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

and the hem, from little above The
knee line, was set in fiat pleats. This
was three piece costume. There WAS
the satin skirt; then there was a par
ticuiarly dainty, long sleeVed blouse
of yalencienneT lace and Indian muslin,
over this was a sleeveless waistenast
coatee Of black and white hrocaded vel
vet. These waistcoat coatees are very
much In evidence just now. They are
generally made of some rich material,
such as brocaded satin or velvet, and
they ar., almost always made without
sleeves In the dress shown In my
sketch the coatee was exaggeratsdiy
bloused at the waist.
II was worn by very pretty English
girl. who was posse ased Of tall,
slender figure, and 1t made quite ssn-
sat!on in the concert room.
These hrocaded veiyets in very bold
designs will he much used this fall for
coates, for handsome wraps and for
whole evening dresses. Nearly all the
newest hrocades, whether the material
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

method which Is as old as 1t IL new;
that is TO say by the posing and super
posing of fragile materials, one above
the other. The Greeks We're past mas
ters of this art. They and also the
Romans OF Nero's days thoroughly
realized the charm OF mystery and of
suppleness. The lovely women of those
long ago days sklifully posed one vague
garment made of transparent tissue on
another OF like description. Embroid-
cries fell over embroderies. frfnges upon
fringes. And go by perfectly artistic
methods a superb ensemble was OBJ
tanned.
A few seasons ago the Parisiennes ac-
cepted this Idea with enthusiasm. Greek
robes in pale gauze laden with gold en-
hroideries were made the background
for draperies and scarves OF unexpected
materials and colors: fringes rcigned
supreme The result was delightful, but
unhappily these exclusive fashions were
quickly copied In inferior materials and
by inexperienced workers, with the
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14
Velvet Spotted Crepe de- Chine
in Pervenche Blue New est
Material for Afternoon Gowns

scene was brilliant. The woman who
is wearing the quaint gown OF siik
crepe dotted over with black velvet
spots sold programmes at fabulous
prices. She carried in one hand shear
of roses ard IN the other a bundie OF
programmes; In the hand which clasped
the roses there was a dainty sack In
black velvet and many hundred franc
notes found their way into its interior.
/ sketched this particular gown De-
cause It was designed in Paris by one
OF our most eclectic dress artists ana
II indicates very clearly several Tea
lures which will come to the front III
tho near future The naterfM used
was crepe de chine in a very supple
make; 1t was of n delicious shade OF
"pervenche" blue, the true periwinkio
tint. All over the surface OF this crepe
navy blue velvet patches ware dot
ted. round spots of sombre colcr which
threw the delicate blue into prorni-
hence. This velvet spotted crepe 10 one
of the newest materials OF the autumn
season. It will be very. much used by
the best Paris artists in the construc-
ton of fall models, IN conjunction with
narrow bands Of sable or OF black fox.
Il is lovely material. Soft and pliable
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14
by CLAUDE CHERYs.

A T Biarritz there are two large
n casinos. One of these is open
all the year round, the other.
the larger of the two, is only open
In the summer season. This latter
building is called the Casino Bellevue
and 1t is situated on a height with
splendid terraces overlooking the sea.
There are genuine attractions at the
Casino Municipal a., the year round.
The music there - excellent, and so IS
the restaurant, but the Bellevue at
tracts the butterflies Of fashion. ana
while this big establishment Is open
the Municipal IL almost deserted
AS / said in my Inst article. Biarritz
is of all towns the most cosmopolitan.
1t seems to have attractions for french.
English, American, Spanish aac Rus
sian pleasure seekers. At this par
ticular season all these nationalties are
well represented, though the majority OF
the charming women to be seen at the
Casino Bellevue and on the Grande
PLACE are either French or Spanish,
especially the latter. For the smart
Epaniards Biarritz is an ideal meet
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

quite soft: it is practically uusuy1w
ported, though one or two very thin
wires are introduced in the lining. The
idea Is that the velvet should be Of
such rich quality that 1t could stand
alone without support. Some OF the
very new advance models arc made o.
Name red velvet bordered with sable:g
others are in Egyptian blue mirror vei-
vet with border Of white fox. These
toques come down far on the head ana
they will be worn with loose wraps -
well as with smart tailored suits.
In Paris right at the end OF the suns
mer season a most extraordinary rags
for red foxskins set in. These oranges
red beasts were to be seen Ia all the
shop windows and at first It seemed -
though they were going to enjoy =
genuine success. AT Trouyille and Deatl-
| vile some Of the very smartest Parf.
slennes wore these skins In the shape Ok
large stoles in conjunction with white
/ linen and muslin dresses and the effect
was excellent But the copy cats have
Killed this fashion. The orange red fox
has already become hopelessly common.
1t is being offered In Paris at ridicu-
| lousy low prices. not in good quality
1 or course out sun IN the r1tiiaf hapaF
orange red shade. IT has become COM
mon and therefore Impossible from the
eiegante's point of view.
ON the other hand. pure white fox
will be more worn than ever this fali
and winter. More than this, 1t Will Dc
the clou of the early spring season -
| Nice and Monte Carlo Good quality
white fox is never inexpensive. but u q
always effective 1t looks equally we'll
when worn with a tailored suit OF navy
blue serge or a picture gown OF white
tulie For pretty girls there Ii no fuf
in the world equal to white fox. II
throws their delicate compilations inta
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

all other nations. since they represent
the fashions of tomorrow.
The big white felt picture hat was
worn at the Biarritz Casino by the
Duquesa de Arion. Cherys has not
called 1t a portrait study, but the draw
ing as a matter of fact was made from
life: it h an excellent LIKENESS OF the
wife OF one Of the proudest grandees In
Spain. This design has special I'M
portance OF it's own; 1t shows the ex-
traordinary combination Of unexpected
materials which is meeting with APP
prevail from the best Paris nuturiers'
The hat Is IN white silk felt. with q
mass OF pure white feathers circiing
the low crown. The important looking
fur stole which Is thrown round the
shoulders Is In white fox. and the gown
with which both hat and stole whre
worn was made entirely Of oyster white
tuile.
This is very Partisan. The same idea
will be found to run right through the
fall and winter seasons. Rich velvet
and fur wraps viii be thrown on over
the most fragile dresses. This fashion
was In vogue last winter and the
Parisians exploited 1t to perfection. So
great hold has 1t taken on their ar
fections that they are determined to
carry 1t on into 1914. 1t would not be
easy to find more effective or artistic
combination of materials than that in
dicafed in this drawing. In the case Of
a young and lnyeiy woman such q conn
bination must inevitably prove irresist-
ible, each item IL % exquisite in Itself
and 70 feminine.
The seeond Cheryx head shows oiss q
the new hiGh ve3xAt taaues h0rdarAQ
with f,sr. tOSaev m CAeseek a.
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

ing place. Year after year the same
families go there: pretty girls and dark
eyed boys who played together on the
sands years ago now walk together on
the Grande PLACE or dance at the casino
balls. The whole thing seems like n huge
family party. Every one knows every
one else. Every oneof the feminine
sex--tries to rival her neighbor and
dearest friend in the affair OF dress
Everybody meets between and O'Clock
at the famous Biarritz restaurant, the
Miremont, in the Place de la Mario.
This is the smart place for tea ana
gossip, and all through the months or
August and September 1t Is crowded TO
OVERLOOKING All tho gay butterflies
meet in the water in bathing costumes
in the morning; they meet at the Mire-
mont in the afternoon and at the Casino
Bellevue In the evening.
The balls at the Casino Bellevue are
exceedingly well managed, especially
the cotillons. Personally l prefer the
balls at the Casino at San Sebastian.
the Spanish seaside resort just across
the frontier. but for the general public
the Biarritz Casino offers greater at
fractions. It is In the evening more
brilliant. Certainly the company Is
mere mixed, for the pretty music hall
actresses OF Paris flock down south"
in the months OF August and Septem-
her. Lates in the evening in the bacca-
rat rooms these lovely creatures wear
tho most marvellous costumes. but as
they do, not belong to the grande monde
with their sccentricltIes.
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

as charmeuse and made In all the new
est pastel shades. as well as in the
strong Empire colors. which are again
coming to the front
The outline Of this dress IL also
worthy of serious study. Here you
have the loose, ,bloused. oorsage which
falls In careless folds over the waiat-
band and the flounced skirt which gives
an impression OF width ct the knees
and seems to cling In about Ehe fest
though it is in reality Quke wide at the
hem. The corsage shown in this draw
ing is the latest idea In Paris. The
ultra short sleeves do not even cover
half of the upper arm and the de-
coiiette fronts ore hordered with Medlcis
the ubiquitous sash, finished Off with
a huge bow In front.
1t Is curious outline. Many women
would find II trying. But, II properly
managed. 1t is an outline which shows
OF o graceful form to perfection. 4,
must be rea6zed that for tbs moment
waists In the old fashioned sense OF the
word do not exist. Every effort Is
being made by dressmaters and corstt
makers alike to give an absolutely
f HAT ufdi HIT 1hie buss StGithS u
melt away into the waist and the waist
into the hips. A strongly marked curve
Is considered impossible" This Is. Of
course, the true classic ideal. Long
may It last in the hearts Of modern
womcni
The second full length figure shows
quite another style Of dress. In this
1 have indicstcd tho ploated skirt. which
q, an1 M eontanus ~ IA, "A ahapihse
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14

relief and IT gives a softness to faeD,
THROAT and figure. 1t has been said TT
white fsx 10 only possible for women -
large incomes, but this d not really thM8
ease Certainly II is true that In -
first instance large stole and mum ~
this fur costs q good deal, but then l.
lasts q very long time and II cap ~
cleaned again and again. each time toC1E-H
ing as good o. new. II
Ia Paris everybody is fond of tAkiktmI
abou; lie sport They have ap1c14Is
costumes, hats and shoes. &c. 4er ~
footing, and for lie sport genepa1sxs
OF course 1t is true that footing III
not an English word at all and ~ 2mm~s
lish speaking person uses thu N44
sport in the French sense, hut t1G&s
does not matter. The latest ana MAMG
attractive sport skirt is made ~ e
duroy velvet in pure white or ia aAxs MN
the pale Irvine or gray shades. x91M
skirts sre quite short. They arr w9
with smart, practical shoes which motx 4
the skirt In color and are accGmpa14r1
by plain white linen blouses. O. 1M
inside hem Of these skirts there n
band OF supple leather. This band naAk
| il an easy matter to keep the skirt cIeM
even when It is worn for the most Ace1
sports. In pure white corduroy thS
skirts are exceedingly smart and attx1
| tive: for country wear they are tdenS3
| : The correct hat 10 wear with thA
| picturesque wideawake Ia whtee
| and tho accompanying blouse
| b iii fine linen. with loc~a g u
sleeves reachiug wen down 70. IT.
ana nsatiy pleated frfiI 1HIa
elther ~ of The deeoilefe nge
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-09-14
Silk Felt Hat, Fur Stole, Tulle Gown,
All Pure White, Seen at Seaside.

PARIS, August %
~ LAUDE CHERYs has gone IN
4 strongly for black and white
effects in the millinery models
which he has sketched this
week. They are both hats worn by no.
table Spanish women at Biarritz ana
they are extremely useful to women or
Abbeville progress. (Abbeville, Vermilion Parish, La.) 1913-1944, 1913-10-11

ID EMBRANDT painted many graceful
N hats and we shall do honor to his
art during the coming season; for they
have furnished inspiration for thou
sands of hats which are triumphant
among the new styles. Never was
such a widespread demand for rich
velvet Crowns are soft, brims are
flexible and full of grace. Their lines
are good from every point and they
silhouette the face adorably.
One Of the Rembrandt models is
shown here as interpreted by two de-
signers. 1t will be seen that there is
very little variation in lines. The
brim is elaborated in the all-velvet hat
by the addition of an extra under
brim Of velvet smaller than the brim
above It. This secondary brim is
really a fat puff of velvet tackled
to the brim proper, and It is not an
essential part Of the design. In both
hats the brim Is a large, fiat puff OF
scant fullness supported by the light
est Of frames, and the crown is a full
puff.
One designer has provided her hat
with a crown of satin, thus accomplish
ing a little elaboration in her model!
placing the pulled crown care has been
given to disposing it's fullness so that
the crown falls toward the right side
as it should. Both designers selected
! odd feathers for decorating their Gre
atoms, of a character so light and airy
that no line OF the shape is concealed
1 by them. Both selected narrow rib
bon and copied the quaint fiat pair OF
bows into which the sprightly feath-
ers at the side are mounted.
/ The all-velvet hat is trimmed with
the Numidi feather in the natural
dark brownish gray color. 1t is far
more expensive than the very effective
and beautiful peacock feather which
was chosen for the other hat.
There are certain styles In hats
Abbeville progress. (Abbeville, Vermilion Parish, La.) 1913-1944, 1913-10-11
DELIGHT OF ARTISTS
Etretat Scenery Has Charm and
Great Variety.
Quaint "Hostelry" in Purest Style Of
Norman Architecture Possesses
Much fer Those Who Can
Appreciate Beauty.

Paris-Et-etat. owing TO the charm
and variety of its scenery, has long
basD tho daIigbt Of artists. Their az
rreciariou will be beightercd by the
latest addition to IT'S attractions. D
h.idi,,, I'm fra unrest sryla Of Nor.
man architecture Il is a Quaint hos
-elry" th., -e.1s Ike relic of the
ferdaI asa. as il has been rebuilt
rrr-, materials collected with taste
and t,a-fts Mains from ancient ,if-
.ras that na-4 bsen demolished dur
I-.- recent Years I'm different parts u
The rr.rf0ca.
Tho ~a-..I- Is beautiful and au-
-rentfo snaclrtau of rustic Norman
.,t THAT an Lowers Of fla rfcf,resove
a.u1 admire and all conuoi4saurs VIII
,-arra IFS reconciliation is the reaIiza-
t.ur oF an idea ~ Mr. da Tn blanche
rais director NJ .be Golf hotels. who
..r,a Tim. a,o determined IN bulld
with materials ~ van established au-
--euuci+v eenuine old Norman
house The work has inst been fin
ished and the "hostelry" opened in
connection with Mr.. de La Blanchetafs'
hotels Nothing but uraise can be
said of the way In which the idea has
been carried ont bv the architects
ana builders. Messrs. Mauge and
Hamel
To start with. they had nothing but
the land on which to build the house.
Abbeville progress. (Abbeville, Vermilion Parish, La.) 1913-1944, 1913-10-11
SCARF AND MUFF
OF ERMINE FASH
IONABlE Pushes

A befits so rich fur the scarf ana
"A muff of ermine shown here are
plain and exquisitely made. Ermlne' IN
the body of both pieces, is maze up
without the points of black, which only
appear in the trimming. 1t depends
ON the furrier for variety, as nearly
all fashionable furs do this season
II ia the manner In which skins are
matched. arranged and sewed together
that provides individuality IN style
for the wearers of handsome furs'
This careful making Is big item IN
the matter of expense, also. Inc
amount of work involved in making
set like that shown here is not real
lied until one sees how many small
pieces-shaped and themselves priced
must be joined with the most pains
taking exactness to make even
small scarf.
Ermine is a luxury for the rich, and
not suited to general wear. 1t is, In
fact, more attractive in a small neck
niece than in a long and ample scarf.
It really appears to best advantage as
a trimming for other handsome furs
or ON neckpieces and muffs made OF
velvet and chiffon.
Frmine made up without the black
points is called pure ermine' and is
unite the fashion for the coming sea
son. It is fairly durable, but, or course
soils easily. People who can AFFORD
several sets are those who Will in
dulee themselves in the pure white or
this fur and reserve it to wear upon
high occasions. But the scarf and
muff pictured here may serve as
guides for making up sets In some OF
the remarkably handsome pushes
which are as fashionable as fur. The
large fat muff and the long and mod
erately wide scarf are just as COM
Portable in plush as in fur. A good
plush is handsomer than cheap fur
and nothing Is more fashionable
Hats. coats, even dresses are shown
made of it, but a skirt of plush is
really too much Of a good thing. The
handsomest costumes are those hav-
ing a plain broadcloth skirt made
with some draping, and a Russian
blouse Of plush.
The best idea of the new season is
the use of pushes for making
matched sets. muff, neck-piece and tur-
ban. There was never so great
variety of pushes to choose from, and
they were never before in such high
| favor.
Neckpieces, as a rule, are small.
Very few scarves as lsrge as the
ermine piece pictured here will b
| found in fur or plush sets. There
Abbeville progress. (Abbeville, Vermilion Parish, La.) 1913-1944, 1913-10-11
Hot Springs
LiVerButtOnS
are i'm Town
People Coming for Miles Around for
Wonderful Constipation Remedy
that is Better, Safer and
Surer than CalOmel.

Tone up your liver; clean your bowels
Of foul waste; drive out poisonous
gases, end constipation and feel fine and
full of energy in twenty-four hours.
Throw away calomel; it's dangerousI
you know it; everybody knows it.
HOT SPRINGS LIVER BUTTONS
are different. They are harmless; act
gently yet surely on the bowels and
do not cause particle of after misery.
It's joyful laxative and more, it's
fine for dizziness, biliousness, sick
headache, sallow skin and malaria.
They make everybody feel good be-
cause they act as a general tonic, driv-
ing impurities from the blood and making
the entire intestinal tract clean and anti
septic. 25c at all druggists, and money
back if dissatisfied. Free samples and 100
of our 1900 testimonials from Hot Springs
Chemical Co.. Hot Springs, Ark.
Abbeville progress. (Abbeville, Vermilion Parish, La.) 1913-1944, 1913-10-11

which are so good from the stand
point of art that they have more
stability than mere fashions. These
hats are examples of good style. Be
sides possessing good style they are
immensely fashionable; which two
commendable characteristics are not
always found together in millinery or
other things. Some very ugly things
manage to become fashionable for
brief time. But they never are styl-
ish-that is, they have not good style.
and therefore have no permanence.
But look and you will see that the
good style of the Rembrandt hats has
put the masters name in everyone's
mouth at this present time. We shall
delight In the lovely lines Of these
hats and in the rich, soft velvets and
odd, saucy feathers which go into
their composition. And popular taste
must necessarily advance. Let us
hope that the day will come when
atrocities in headwear will not be
tolerated. The Rembrandt hat will
help to make freaks and ugliness i'm
possible.
With all their virtues these lovely
| conceptions are comparatively mex
pensive. They must be made of good
velvet with a live luster. They admit
of little trimming-and this may cost
much or little. The two examples
here show that the peacock feather
is quite as pretty as the Numidi. II it
were as scarce, expensiveness might
be added to its charms. But it is one
of those splendid things that is within
easy reach. We are used to it and
want something else. Therefore feath-
er manufacturers have provided great
numbers of fancy feathers, odd and
graceful-and unacceptable. They
are originally even easier to get than
peacock, but they are masquerading
in new forms-which Is worth some
thing. JULIA BOTTOMlEY.
Abbeville progress. (Abbeville, Vermilion Parish, La.) 1913-1944, 1913-10-11
They Were Cheap.

An elderly lady from the country,
one day decided to adopt two children
from the county orphan asylum.
She walked several miles before
reaching the car line. 1t was the first
time she had been on a car. She
stared wide-eyed at everything she
saw, then her gaze stopped on sign;
she read thus:
THE Ohio Traction Company-Chil-
dren under twelve years of age three
cents or two for five cents"
Well" she said, that is the best
bargain ever. Calling the conductor,
she said: Young man, I'll take two
of those children for five cents right
now, a boy and a girl, please. Ma
tional Monthly.