The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1913-10-14

and still be different from every other
! woman. Women are not slaves to
! fashion, but to their own lack of in
| dependence and Imagination. If each
! frock, instead of being the epitome of
every fugitive craze of the hour, be
| in detail beautiful and becoming and
| of good material, there is no reason
why the gown that IS two, three or
| even four years old should not be worn
and look admirable. My advice to
every woman is to adjure the dernier
cri. 1t is not worth notice 1t may
be ugly and vulgar. Robe yourselves
prettily, tastefully, in keeping with
your position and the occasion, and
wear good materials.
Isaiah Criticised Women's Dress.
"A for criticism of women's dress,
there is nothing new about it, Isaiah
and Caesar Augustus aSsailed the
legislated against feminine apparel.
Lycurgus, of Sparta, enforced the
wearing of simple, abbreviated gar
ments, and the girls took part in ath-
letic contests on the same terms as
men-without clOthing-and Spartan
women and men alike were noted for
their modesty. The much discussed
slashed skirt at its best is thorough
ly admira BILE skirt, but when worn by
a vulgar woman Vulgarly, 1t is as Vul-
gar any Vulgarity.
The active, healthy woman creates
spiritual impress by simplifying her
dress, thus enhancing her facial
, beauty. lower appeal is made
through the wearing of gaudy and
Ella borate dresses. Thus through the
change in fashions is coming a higher
morality and more beauty"
Martial Creation.
During her lecture, Madame Savarie
wore a fleurs d autumn creation by
Martial and Armand, Paris. Is sug-
gested asters touched by frost. and
was red and silver brocade with a cor
sa ge chiefly of transparent tulle. The
coiffure with this was black paradise
feathers embroidered in rubies and
diamonds. After the intermission, she
wore a Venetian gown of mordore
chiffon velvet embroidered with fur.
The gown had a cOrsage of gold tulle
and embroidery with long, close fit
ting sleeves that had a mitten effect
there being a thumb band to sold the
sleeve over the hand. She had
Rubens hat of velvet and ostrich.
JeweIIed Stockings.
Among the new things shown were
jewelled stockings. a great variety of
hair ornaments, some with the high
style of hair dressing. There were
handbags, one made by hand of beads
in the time of Louis XIV, with cut
steel top and side opening.
One of the models wore an evening
cloak that could be made long or short
by a manipulation of buttons at the
back. A cloak of American make was
a purple cloth trimmed with white fur,
and made with the long point at the
hack and carelessly draped over the
figure. There were sandal shoes with
jewelled fastening reaching from the
instep as high as the split skirt open
ing. There We're sets of muff coat
collar and hats of various colors one
in blue that was particularly attract
i've The new Paris blouses are made
with the entire back and sleeves of
lace and a vest of mOire- All of them
are extremely loose and have much
filmy drapery. A new kind of collar
is the Japanese style hanging loose
at the back. and leaving the throat
bare in front. 1t is the most COM
Portable arrangement for the neck that
any houses have yet shown. Many of
the skirts were slashed. but there were
q large number of the new peg-toD
draped skirts cut on wholly different
lines. Furs dyed in odd coIors were
worn in odd shapes. One, an orange
colored scarf. was looped about the
waist and over the shoulders. With
some of the gowns there We're tunics
and scarfs of different colors. and worn
in various ways over the gown. A
great many of the new costumes for
dinner and party gowns We're made
with skirt and waist of different color
and material. but they We're combined
in such a way as to make it unmis-
taxable that the two belonged togeth-
er White and black was much used
in combination
Blouse Without Fastenings
Madame SaVarie showed a blouse
with no fastenings. 1t is made with a
peplum in the back and the front is
made surplice, both sides alike and so
long that they can be crossed and tied.
All of the clothing for the season is /
very loose and comfortable. The cloaks !
are made to appear two or three sizes
too large. but the general effect is
graceful. and the garments are comfor-
table.
Madame .Savarie represents the Wool !
tex people, and is said to be one of the |
cleVerest lecturers of the day on fash |
ions. The house was crowded, and af- !
ter the lecture closed a picture of the !
audience was taken for Mr.. w w. |
Mills, who was ill and could not at
tend the show. An orchestra furnished /
music through the intermission and be-
fore the lecture. b H