Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1913-11-14

Partisan milliners. "f
have already spoken Of the extreme
popularity OF white velvet, both with
dressmakers and milliners; now the
chic" thing is clever mixture OF
black and white velvet. or black and
white silk beaver.
The little shape Ia ideal for early
morning wear. 1t fits close to the head
and is almost universally becoming. at
least to youthful faces.
In white felt, with black velvet
edge. this shape Is as useful as It Is
becoming, and it Is also very charming
In violet or cherry-red felt. with Dor.
der of black velvet or black MORE.
Though the parisiennes have got
quite tired of the small close fitting
Shapes which were such rage last
spring they are still wearing very
small hats and toqucs in the morning !;
and even in the afternoon with tailored
suits.
Everything depends upon the man.
ner in which such hat as this is
worn. 1t must be placed at exactly
the right angle of the head and pressed
down on the hair without hiding it. as
did the "bathng-cap-tooues."
Cancels Hair Cloth.
Camels hair cloth Is one of the ia
vorite materials of the season, and 1t
is specially effective in rich shade Of
cherry red Yesterday Afternoon
saw an exquisite walking costume in
this material The skirt was set in
fiat pleats at either side and there was
sort Of tight overdress which was
buttonend down on the pleats with
large fiat buttons made of red enamel
and ivory. The coat was fashioned in
Russian blouse style and 1t showed the
new long waist line to perfection.
There was deep border of heavy silk
embroidery on the coat and below this
shaped band of skunk. The sleeves
were long and quite tight and there
was a collar of skunk which ended. In
front. In two points These points
were buttoned down with the same
buttons as those on the skirt.
worn with this costume and turban
toque of black mirror velvet which had
very high mount made Of horse hair.
A similar costume, seen at the same
dressmaker's studios. was made of the
same cloth, but in a rich shade of
Egyptian blue. On the underskirt-for
there was a shaped tunic-there was a
broad border Of wool and silk en-
broidery. Various shades Of blue and
dull red appeared in this embroidery
ard the same design formed large
re~ers and gauntlet cuffs. The coatee
was belted in at the waist by cein-
ture Of dark blue leather and on this
belt there were many facets of wrought
copper. The coat opened over an elab.
crate blouse of the finest white linen
it is possible to imagine. This blouse
had pleated frills on either side of the
front and a straight, stiff collar which
was finished off by narrow black
taffeta tie.
Long Waist Line.
Nearly all the new coats show the
long waist line Of which spoke in a
recent article. 1t was at first thought
that this peculiar line would prove
very trying to the average figure, but
quite the contrary is the case. These
boyish-looking coats are almost uni
versally becoming They give a curl
ously youthful outline to the feminine
figure, for they reduce the apparent
size of bust and hips. In fact, in one
of these new coats a woman looks
rather like well-made boy. That this
peculiar ''ligne" will remain popular
for some time to come there can be NO
doubt. 1t has caught on" and al
ready it is being exploited by all the
leading elegantes OF Paris.
Very handsome Russian belts, made
Of embroidered leather, are worn with
the new tailored coats which show the
long waist line. In some cases these
belts are of great value. They are
not ONLY embroidered very finely, but
they are also inset with facets Of cop
per or brass and finished off with
antique buckles. One Of these genuine
Russian belts gives immense cachet
to a simple tailored suit of serge or
cloth. Indeed many of these belts are
in themselves SO beautiful and decora-
tive that they take the place of trim.
mings or full borders