Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

which she is trying to ignore. Even II
she has hips she won't acknowledge II.

which she is trying to ignore. Even II
she has hips she won't acknowledge 1t.
re
The revival of the Vatican pleat Is
quite another matter than the rise ana
decline Of the Italian pannier Cabot
showed gown of pink and blue brocade
over five months ago that was an abso-
lutte copy of the ones worn by CHINA
shepherdesses. There were the lace ruf-
fies the pointed basque, the broad box
pleat at the back and the looped-up over
skirt. The model who wore 1t added
black slippers with red heels to White
silk stockings, and the onlookers VINO
had come in by appointment TO see ne"
gowns merely laughed at the charming
little mannequin and dismissed the gown
as one of Callot'S caprices.sPrODaoly Cal
lot wanted them to think it caprice,
but didn't intend it one herself.
This house has canny and interesting
way of Introducing a picture model wh1cn
appears to have no bearing on the RASH
ion Of the day and which. as Cabot her-
self explained. is merely to make the
serious Americans laugh. and incidental
ly, it may be added from the reporter
view, to give a FLIP to the cable dis
patches to the American newspapers
This exhibition of a shepherdess gown
was in September and in December the
French were wearing the Fascinating
Vatican pleats hanging from the Shout
ders of their evening gowns and cleverly
tucked up at the knees into .dashlnS lit
tie overskirts. At the sides of the pleat
they added wide bands of thread lace
which spread over the shoulders and top
back in such a way as half to conceal
the definite little Vatican pleat beneath
X
This spring we will see far more of the
box pleat drapery that hangs from the
shoulder. It will not confine itself to
evening gowns to be made only in the
pastel shades of soft brocade; It will
appear on frocks Of satin, Of foulard, of
crepe de chine, plain and figured. AS an
ADJUNCT to street gown it is absurd. but
for house gown 1t will be most accepta-
BILE and a decided change from what has
been worn for the last six years.
Among the new coats is shown one
that for want of a better name Is called
a Russian blouse. Any jacket that is
belted and has a peplum is named after
the country Of Cossacks. This new one
Is shown by Cheruit and has many Of her
distinguishing features, such as the fiat
shoulder with it's fitted revers and the
effect of the pannier which she intro
duced and which she has constantly
played upon for year.
This coat is made in a heavily ribbed
Chinese silk in its natural color Of beige
or tan. and the skirt, which is slightly
draped, opens down the front and gives
one plenty Of knee room. The coat opens
to the waist line and is outlined with
broad, fiat bands that curve as revers.
There is a waistcoat which is far more
directoire than Russian, but Is quite in
keeping with the spirit of the new fash
ions, which desires waiStcoat Of some
kind in every gown. This one is Of crepe
de chine. is fitted to the shoulder, extends
into a high, flaring collar at the back
and fastens, double breasted, with white
satin buttons and long silk loops. The
quarters in length and finished with
straight and a turnover cuff.
4 i
The peplum below the waist is In two
parts; the first is fitted to the hips and
the second Is turned under full width,
has some fullness and therefore gives the
effect Of very much modified pannier.
The belt is Of the material. and there Is
a big buckle in front of jade and jet.
There are other coats not as dignifed
that also go by the name of Russian
blouses, but they have nothing In COM
mon with the original garment OF this
kind. They are made Of satin or bro
caded crepe de chine and have good
deal of fullness put in below the Shout
ders to a thick cord. There is "
shaped opening at the neck, a double
breasted fastening and two-inch belt
that has some kind Of fancy buckle
placed on it. The peplum is short. Is