The Washington herald., 1913-03-16

the flowers. blossom out new styles
in wonen's garb, and duplicate
models of alb these enticing and
original fashions are already landed
ON this side. French designers seem
10 have culled from many historical eras
for this seasons modes, and the Oriental
and Balkan colorings are used in combl-
nation with many style lines of more
modern costumes. such as the styles Of
those in vogue in the time of Louis PhlI-
ippe, the whole combined into original
and unusua! modernized twentieth CEN
fury models.
1t is doubtless to Gavarni's sketches of
the Paris of the 40's that we owe
the p.Iy blouse designed to wear with
tailored suits, for it is OH these lines that
the latest models TO come over from
France are built One wondered what
rovelty would be brought out TO replace
the Robcspierre blouse. of which the col
lar. the principal originality and charm,
had such an unusual popularity. Spring
and Paris seem to have answered this in
the new "Debardeur" blouse. already
seer on the fashionable women at the
various Riviera resorts. This llouse is
quite on the lines of the neslisee shirt
worn by the wOrkmen pictured SO often In
this artists sketches, which portrayed So
wildly the people of his times. '.ulte
artistic and charming it is. having the
soft nr-!igtc quality of the workmans
blouse, and with its lack of trimming be-
yond the chemise or inconspicuous collar
top. 1t blouScs into the waist line IN
manner that waists have not done in
many seasons, and drops at the shoulder
in true shirt sleeve fashion. These
blouses are made of crepe de Chine and
softcst batistc Little round pipings often
hold the seams together to keep them
from twisting about, fine tucks hold in
the soft fulness about the shoulders and
the loose sleeves finish in a sustaining
cuff or ruffle.
They will be charming to wear with
many of the new tailored models that
have q touch of the same quaintness in
their make-up-those old short coats of
the tailored suits, for instance, that are
neither holero nor jacket, yet partake of
the nature of both. Sometimes they are
of the same depth front and back; some
times at the back they are heightened
into position effects of various depths.
Some of these latter tailored suits are
lively reminders of mans dress coat;
the lower edge has the same curve and
the resen. blance is further heightened if
one of the mannish and elegant separate
vests of faille or MORE silk is worn with
it.
1t is an unusual skirt that has not at
least a little drapery. Even the tailored
skirt includes q few little folds stiffly
tucked into some convenient seam, some
times partly stitched when the model
tends toward classic lines. There is, how
ever, a decidedly new drapery in some of
the afternoon tailored suit skirts. This
Is made by a combination of pleats, which
are loosely folded into the waist line in
front with de1teriy that places the
fulness so that the material does not fall
awkwardly about the figure. The full
ness gained by the introduction of these
plests is then drawn toward the back in
d drapery, which is as unusual as it is
graceful.
The sash is a strong fashion note in the
tailored suit, as well as in the models for
all times of day, and perhaps the sash tied
in front lis the most novel. Sometimes it
has streamer ends, sometimes not; in the
tailored suits it is more often q sash belt
that ties in the centre front. Even when
the tailored coat is fastened, because of
the peculiarly shortened cut of the lower
coat edge in front, the Large bow shows.
New short blouse jackets as loose and
negligee in their cut as the "Debardeur"
blouse waist already mentioned are an
other type of coat that replaces to a.
great degree the longer Russian blouse of
the winter. These coats are quantity pict-
uresque, ideal for slender figures and are
belted with the sashes of all sorts-plaid,
stripes, flowered or plain ribbon, wide or
narrow.
Skirts worn with these blouse coats are
often elaborately draped, but always with
an eye to narrowing the contour of the
skirt toward the hem. Slashes, or a skill
full drapery arrangement, make walking
possible in skirt of this shape. 1t is the
height of fashion for afternoon and even
ing to include this skirt silhouette. Such
Skirts have reyolutonized rhe fashions Of