The Washington herald., 1913-11-09
Fashions at the Capital.
The Well-Dressed Woman OF Smart Societys What
She Wears the Time and Place.
BY MARGARET WADE.

modes, the timid woman who Is afraid
of. being left behind in the trend of
fashion, but also afraid to follow her
American common sense in accepting or
rejecting the extreme modes, can allow
herself the luxury of choice in every
particular OF the toilet without getting
very far away from some accepted
standard. Assuming, Of course, that the
American is a woman Of naturally good
TASTE as most are, with the average
powers of observation and the Unborn
aversion to being conspicuous. This lat
ter quality is absolutely indispensable in
dressing for any one wishing to be, or to
be mistaken for a lady. An old-fash-
iOned term, but, in this connection with
out a synonym. The fantastic in dress
is never. what our grandmothers used tC
call ''genteel," nor is II acceptable in
truly polite circles, even in these tango
dancing days.
The philanthropic woman who wears
her diamond tiara to a charity bazaar
is just as Yulgarly conspicuous as the
silly girl in a slit skirt on her way to
her days work. Both are to be found
in Washington, but, happily, not in SO
large a proportion as in some other
cities. we all know.
According tC Paul Poiret, the origina-
tor of the minaret tunic. he never intend
ed this innovation for general acceptance
in the polite world. The first mtnaret
appeared in Paris last spring-an exclu-
sive creation for a fascinating ballet In
a Persian play. Its instantaneous sue
cess with the audience LED to the demand
by Poiret's patrons that he give them
minaret suited to Deauville, to Paris, or
the Reviera.
Hence, the modified minaret of the
autumn, which, at its worst, is nothing
more demoralizing than a large lamp
shade, and at its best, a short and not
especially becoming tunic, which has
found its way into every city Of Ameri-
ca as well as into the White House.
As seen in Miss Jessie Wilson's trous-
seau and in the several smart new gowns
worn by her sisters as well, the minaret
is unwired and consequently more In
keeping with the general style of dress
followed by these youthful leaders
Miss Margaret Wilson, on her recent
visit to Philadelphia, wore a distinctly
French gown Of the Cheruit, rather than
the Callot or Poiret school. This is
pompadour silk on a pink ground. with
small, graceful paniers. The overdress
is of pink tulle, little more than deep
peplum, the tulle covered in crystal
beads. The sleeves are half length, in
the new. loose undersleeve. Crystal tas-
sells finish the sash ends; also in smaller
form appear on the sleeves
Notwithstanding the widely reported
patriotism of Miss Jessie Wilson in Sc
curing an all-American trousseau, the
daughter of the President has succumbed
to Paris fashions in the matter of at least
two gowns. These are not only Paris
made, but sufficiently elaborate in char
acter to do credit to the White House in
Washington, as well as the compara-
lively simple home of a junior member
of the faculty at Williams College.
One gown, an afternoon creation I'M
Washington. but an evening dress inI
Williamsburg, is of the newest weave OF
soft, long pile velvet. This is ivory
white in color with the skirt measuring
fully three yards at the hem, a slight
pointed train. and a girdle that is the
latest cry. The top of the gown is of
chiffon and velvet the latter extending
a scant five inches above the waist line
The chiffon bodice is kimono shape with
half length sleeves completely covered in
what is to be known as shadow embroid- /
cry. The shadow embroidery" is an
all-over pattern in gold and silver threads |
which sink into the velvet while they
rest lightly as frost work on the chiffon. |
The chiffon top is interlined in pink
chiffon and white net mounted on 4 !
shallow lining of ivory white silk. The
folded glrdle, to return to that adjunct |
of an absolutely perfect gown, covers
the hips in three soft. loose folds to end
in one broad sash end falling down the /
back. This sash. or loose panel, shows
the same shadow embroidery as the
bodice. the silver and gold tracery being
heavier at the base, but mounting in
delicate slender lines eighteen inches or
more towards the waistline. The train,
which is short, is, nevertheless, severely
pointed. Another white dress in addition
ly-ag 1
which, of course is also white, is a white
satin afternoon gown with the aT-pre-
vailing tunic and a slight trimming OF
fur. This is also Paris gown. Its skirt
is extremely narrow with an almost un-
suspected slash at the sides. The tunic
is of Spanish lace over white chiffon
slightly irregular in length, and at no
time reaching further than the knees.
This gown has long, close-titting sleeves
Of satin edged with a narrow line of
fur at the wrist. There is also a three
inch black velvet girdle held by jet
butterfly that gives an unusual distinc-
ton to a gown made even for a White
House bride.
Still another gown in Miss Wilson'S
wardrobe showing the latest idea of
what a young woman should wear, ac-
cording to the French standard, is pink
charmeuse, or crepe Lucia, which is a
newer form OF the same material. This
is in rubelite pink, with the tunic of self
celored chiffon in minaret fashion, but
without the wired edge
Mrs. James Parmalee. who has returned
to town earlier than usual by reason of
the illness of her father, Judge William
Maury, is wearing a street suit of the
tailleur variety. quite IN line of the
Premet suggestion. which is a carved
line in the coat, with straight skirt.
This is new, rich dark blue in rep, or
poplin. The skirt escapes the ground by
several inches, and is without the prevail
ing tunic. 1t is sectional cut skirt, clos
ing at the front, or the side. The coat,
also sectional. is just to the hips, semi
fitting, with narrow, plain satin waist
coat. Mrs. Parmalees hat is the smart
est adaptation of the undraped turban
with wide coronet brim varying in depth
and of plain black velvet. The trimming
on this very smart chapeau is a towering
plume of black Paradise, very light in its
effect, although one of the largest clus-
ters of this priceless plumage adaptable
to the present modes.
The detail of Mrs. Parmalee's smart
toilet is an old-fashioned bead bag. re-
producing the colors of her suit in small I
figures. The unusual blues and high-cut
black jet beads appearing in this acces-
sorry are so admirably in harmony with
the gown as to suggest the latter was
ordered to match the bag, rather than S
The bag to match the gown. b
-
One OF the smartest of the new one I
piece duvetyne gowns is that in a leather 8
xoYp bxy Mrs Victor :