The Washington herald., 1913-10-03
KIMONO SLEEVES
STILL HOLD PLACE
Long Sleeves, Short Sleeves, and No
Sleeves at All on Fashion
able Frocks.

There are long sleeves and short sleeves
and no sleeves at all in the costumes
exhibited at the openings If the street
suit is intended for dressy wear, for call
ing. receptions. &c, the sleeve is short
ened. sometimes only seven-eighths
again to the elbow, and it may be put
into the normal arm size, and again II
may be attached to the elongated shoul-
der When this low shoulder was first
introduced there were many who thought
it a mere subterfuge for the kimono
sleeve and refused to take it seriously.
1t has won recognition now from all these
scoffers. and after more than year is
still in fashion.
The kimono sleeve is likewise seen as
frequently as in the past. The majority
of the blouses display the kimonO sleeves
and the newest have the long kimono
sleeve, which is so pretty on a slender
arm and so difficult to adjust properly.
1t should be very loose and very full if
the wearer is ever 10 raise her arm.
The fullness of the sleeves may be ad-
justed as the fancy dictates; it may start
frankly from the elongated shoulder line
or it may poke out at the elbow, or il
may not show itself until it lis gathered
into the cuff. There are strong indica-
tions that the bishop sleeve is returning
to favor. and it is seen many times on
the palmer shirtwaists. Here the fullness
hangs from the shoulder and is gathered
into a cuff. This seasons Interpretation
of the bishop sleeve shows a deep cuff
sometimes extending quite TO the elbow,
and finished, as rule, by frill of the
waist material, of net or of lace.
Sleeves of a contrasting material are
seen in the late models. One designer
has placed sleeves of black satin in the
obi Ct Of Of re he
plaid materials are often introduced in
the sleeves, and in this way the gowns
of yesterday can be brought up to the
hour.
Long Transparent Sleeves.
The long, transparent sleeves arc
shown on many of the handsome after
noon gowns by the leading French de-
signers. Sometime they are ruched.
again there is very little fuIness, the
effect being that of a yelling. They are
very long, extending well over the hand,
so that even the knuckles are hidden.
II is certainly a far cry from the cap
sleeves in these long, lacy affairs. but
the woman whom nature has not gifted
with pretty arms is wise when she Sc
lects the latter. These transparent
sleeves are used quite as much in the
cloth and silk waists as in those Of chif-
fon and net, and the steam heated apart
ments make them as comfortable. If not
more so, than the heavier sleeves Of the
dress material.
When it comes to the evening gowns
the designers have apparently forgotten
all about sleeves for many Of them have
not the vestige of a draping which could
be dignified with the name of a sleeve
Jeweled straps, and even a band o!
strass, are considered quite sufficient for
the utilitarian purpose of holding on the
cOrsage. When a sleeve is demanded, II
is scarcely more than a cap, and these
cap sleeves, by the way, have been worn
a great deal this summer on afternoon
frocks, in which the wearers did not
hesitate the promenade the streets. Still
in these days the demarcation between
the gowns worn a few hours before the
lights are lighted and those worn after
ward is known only to maker, and prob
ably the wearer.
Sometimes these caps are soft wisps
of drapery, tulle, or lace, and again
they are of the bodice material 1t is
not necessary that they should be alike
for one-sided effects were featured by
several of the leading couturiers at their
openings. One of the cleverest evening
gowns displayes a caplike sleeve of lace
over the fore part of the right arm, and
soft drapery of flesh colOred tulle
twisted around the other arm in SEM
blance of a scarf.