The Washington herald., 1913-01-12
By Ida AMEs WILLIS,

To be sure there Is something in the
name Of French cookery. for those who
are wont TO consider plain American
cookery Cor English. for that matter) too
ordinary for their purse and cultured
taste The term also conveys To the
fastidious eater a suggestion Of some
thing a little too fine for common hu-
mans daily favor, something more fitting
for the gods, perhaps. True. there is
a wide comparison between those ar
tistic productions Of skilled culinary ar
lists who were brought to Paris to
please the fastidious taste rof court
beauties and favorites and the homely.
but hearty brawn-making barons Of
boar's heads, immense pork pies. and
buildings prepared to satisfy the mighty
hunger Of the warlike, conquering Briton.
But the economist who studies French
methods realizes that as a nation the
French take first rank In this line. For
economy is the main feature invariably
considered in their cookery. While some
of their dishes may seem eccentric and
most too elaborate, we may be sure
they are not expensive in the actual
cost OF material. for many of their most
successful dishes, in our estimation. as
well as their authors, are simply ad-
vantageous arrangements OF remnants
from previous meals.
Another important feature Is the fact
that the French will not use deleterious
substances in their own cookery. But
they Use with subtle, discriminating in
telligence only favorings and aromatics
TO intensity the natural flavor of in
gradients. and that. without Imparting
their own fiavors to any noticeable de-
gree. A very good example of this skill
Is in their employment of onion and
garlic. AS the French chef introduces It.
the result is a rich mellowness TO dishes
that lack tone and sufficient character
without II 10 recommend them to a dis
eliminating taste.
With less promising materials than
those at the command of the unframed
cook at home, the French adept will
charm the palate OF the American prodi-
gals and beguile them Of their coin In
nocence abroad, indeed - ignorance,
rather. that has no pardonable excuse
One other thing that helps US greatly
in our own home problem OF reducing the
cost OF raw materials in the food line,
is their art OF composing pleasantly Va
ried menus. while at the same time they
use up the large joints and leftover ma
terials in the most delightful dishes, such
as soups fish courses, entries, and salads
Families Of four or FIVE members who
like to hold their Sunday dinner, their
one dinner all together during the week
perhaps. a little more elaborate than
other meals will find a little course in
French home cookery OF greatest as
s!stance to them and under many a eu-
phonious name masquerades a very plain
everyday dish. as regards materials at
least
The Proper Way 10 Boil a Potato.
One of the greatest of our Franco
American chefs advises US thus: Peel a
ring around the potatoes; place them In
the boiler with enough cold water to
cover: put on the lid, and let them boil
until nearly done. Then drain on every
particle of water. Set the kettle on side
OF range with a cloth thrown over them
for five minutes. Then serve them in
the folds OF a napkin.
Cronstades of Potatoes a Ia Regente
Here is a French recipe you can adopt
to home cookery and utilize your cold
mashed potatoes Add a little more
seasoning. a few drops OF onion juice, a
teaspoonful minced parsley, and. IL the
potatoes are too stiff. add a little hot
cream or melted butter, or beaten egg.
II you have II TO spare from the egg you
will use for dipping the rolls. Divide
the potatoes into portions the size of
eggs; shape them on a Toured board,
dip in beaten egg diluted with little warm
water; roll in fine bread crumbs; fat
ten them at the largest end so they will
stand, and fry in the basket in deep hot
fat Drain, and keep hot in oven. When