Arizona republican., 1913-09-21
PADS AND FASHIONS

l NEW YORK, Sept. 20.-As usual, at ! the beginning of the autumn season, 1 the fashion authorities are kept busy making prediction for the important ! season to come. A great deal has been said and written upon the subject but, l condensed in a nutshell there are only 1 a few points upon which the fashion authorities seem to agree. They gen.
 orally concede, however that costume, suit and wrap fashions for the coming season will be characterized not so much by novelty of form as by novelty and beauty of materials and colorings. l The Oriental form is still maintained, | but the Eastern influence is lessening considerably, and is already on the de- | cline from a novelty standpoint. Wo- men of good taste are demanding libe- 1 ration from too much uniformity in 1 dress, and there will be more individ- uality than heretofore from the Paris l dressmakers. Each big maker will stand for what is his or her conception l of the proper dress for the fashionable woman. but in spite of all variety l there will be a certain accordance. l Thus, while some makers show long coats and others short packets, the | two seemingly opposit forms are 1 brought into harmony through the l fact that in the long coats there is l nearly always a break at the waist 1 line. brought about by a girdle the cut 1 of the vest or some other means. 1 The kfmona form of sleeves will be i retained in dressy effects, but usually
 the forearm will be closely fitted. this.
 in combination with the kimona cut,
 necessitating the retention of a very 11 oI1r11a used in transparent bodices and in ev- ening wraps. Generally speaking, day 1 dresses and separate blOuses will have long sleeves, with frills or lace falling over the hands
 The woman who has old clothes to make over can still rejoice in the fact that several contrasting materials are used in most of the fashionable frocks. Evening gowns, for instance. can com bine velvet. satin and chiffon or lace: Afternoon gowns can combine plaided and plain silk and poplin silk and charmeuse, and many other materials Buttons and bows are to share the work of trimming this autumn. But tons are still much used for trimming tailored suits. And bows are used as they have not been used for years One French frOck shows a long tunic of white chiffon. with bows of blue ribbon extending from neck to knees The satin underskirt has a double row of small white satin buttons down the front from knees to hems. thus com bining two smart methods of trimming in the same froek.
 Soft silks, of which chameuse has been a prime favorite for several months, are most practical for many types of early autumn dresses and scarcely any warmer than cotton wash materials that muss so quickly. The dressiest gowns for formal wear are made of it, as may be the simplest aft ernoon frock. or two-piece suit. Now also crepe de chine las come into prominence with any number of good qualities to recommend it. It may be washed and ironed. and has enough body to hang effectively, if a good grade is chosen
 White crepe de chine one-piece are considered very modish, and the sinp- Ter they are made the more beautiful. Hemstitching and net frills or a beau tlful fancy embroidered collar or fichu is sufficient to dress up such a gown. Accessory belts. ashes, etc. vary the ensemble, as any clever woman knows HOW 10 cndnge her gowns from time to time without extra expense.
 The very general use of transparent gowns has given rise to a double panel front petticoat to counteract the X-rav effect that modest dressers deplOre.
 Now is the time to bring out anv Jet trimmings or garnitures one may have laid aside years ago. Jet is be- irg lavishly used on gowns and hats. particularly with tulle and lace. An open work effect in jet bugIes has appeared as a hat crown and is meet ing with favor.
 Apropos of the widespread use of lace and tulle. very dainty dress frocks are made of it with straight o" three tier skirts. set off with em- broidery bands or embroidered seal lops
 Among the modish fabric hats. hint from Paris tells of the success of pale pink crepe de chine hats. fac ed with navy blue taffeta. A rose
 nonture, tulle bow or a lace butter fly mary be the trimming Young girls are wearing picture hats with ribbon velvet streamers, having nosegay of flowers tied in them.
 The attractiveness of velvet con tracted with lace or tulle is excuse for fashion followers wearing velvet wraps in midsummer They are scarcely heavier than any wrap need ed for cool evenings.
 The colors in the new gowns inn ported for the autumn and early winter season are quite attractive and only startling in spots. The general