Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1913-10-01
VARIETY IN THE
COMING STYLES
Monotony That Marked Spring
TailormadeS Is Absent From
Autumn Fashions.
DARK coLoRS FOR STREET
No Doubt That Predominatins Shades
for Outdoor Wear VIII Be SOM
Der - Masculine Accessories
Promise to Be a Partieu-
lar Feature.

70 DC 4
lar Feature.
Shopping for the autumn tailored
suit will be far more interesting than
for the spring tailormade because va
riety is the keynote of the coming
styles. There was a wearisome mo-
notony last season in both skirts and
coats; little variation in length. prac-
ttcally none in trimming. and very lit
tie in cut and material. This year
there are modes FOR all manner of
women: there are short. jaunty coats
for tail, slender figures. long. three
quarter length garments for more ma
tronly figures; draped skirts and plain
ones; belts and waistcoats or wide
sashes and vests. She would be in
deed curious creature who could not
find suit to please her this autumn.
Street Costumes Dark.
On one point the majority of French
couturiers agree, and that is a dark.
subdued coloring for street costumes.
The bright, vivid tones are all very
we'll for the summer, when every one
is frivolling more or less and nature
is in riotous mood, but for the win
ter the reaction from those violent
colorings is very pleasing. Black
however, has a serious rival in ''tete
de negre,' which is almost indistin-
guishable from black, but which on
close inspection betrays brownish
shading. Another equally popular col
or is midnight blue, a very deep navy
blue that suggests black. There is
also deep rich purple and a georg.
cite green which is darker than the
famous Bakst green.
Masculine Accessories.
This leaning toward dark colors for
the street does not mean that all color
will be kept for indoor functions and
for the evening, but that the brilliant
tones will be conferred In the trim
mings.
Vests and waistcoats may reflect
one or many of the radiant hues.
some of the art nouveau stuffs dis
playing a remarkable blending of col
or Against the dark background of
the suit those accessories borrowed
from the masculine contingent stand
out with yividness which Is startling.
Take, for instance, the waistcoat on
the suit at the right OF the illustration.
This waistcoat was exploited In one
of the Rodier vestings. bright golden
yellow duvetyn, with conventional
flower pots developed In scarlet and
green. Fortunately, the material does
not look as crude and garish as the
description might lead one to think.
and with the "tete dc negre" yelours
de laine suit 1t is very effective.
The Sketch.
Waistcoats are OF many types;
some are mere vests. which fill in
the open space in front made by
slanting the coat directly back from
the fastening over the bust; others
are fashioned like mems waistcoats.
with backs OF plain satin. Many
coats are made to be worn with or
without the waistcoat, and the waist.
coat, on the other hand, is worn
frequently without the coat. The plain
taffetas and sains are used generally
Still another type OF waistcoat could
be described as a girdle vest. The
waistcoat on the middle figure in the
sketch is built along these lines. A
bright green and white satin has been
adapted and draped around the figure.
When the jacket is removed the effect
is very similar to that produced by
any high girdle.
Plaids Popular.
The color note is sounded also in
plaids, which are combined freely
with plain materials, but this color
note, it must be admitted, is very
much subdued. 1t has been many sea.
sons since plaid goods have been 30
popular as they are today, and the
fear is expressed that their popu-
larity will tend to cheaper them. One
either likes or dislikes a plaid ma
terial; there are no half measures,
and the woman who over-uses plaids
is almost sure to kill them for the
woman In search OF exclusive styles.
There are some very artistic plaid
materials shown, many reproductions
Of the well known Scotch tartans, and
a large number Of new designs in
soft greens and blues. with stripes OF
silver or COLO and unusual brown and
purple combinations. Plaids are being
made both In silk and in cloths.
The costume shown in the sketch is
developed In velours de laine. the
plaid forming the skirt, and the plain
blue velours de lame appearing in
the Jacket. The plalds permit a GER
tain discreet amount OF draping.
though they are more satisfactory cut
in straight lines with. perhaps. a few
pIeats as displayed IN the sketch.
Collar and cuts of the plaid connect
the skirt with the jacket. On the
longer coats. fashioned on the order
OF Russian blouse. the wide girdle-
like belt may be likewise Of the plaid.
The pleats on the skirt just men
toned are interesting as indicative OF
q style that one Of the weIl-known
couturieres means TO push this win
ter. She showed at her opening an
unusual number OF pleated skirts !;
some pleated at one side, others
pleated all around. 50 far. In fact,
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