The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-04-06

through the four centuries since Eu-
ropeans came to dwell here, there
were many who draw delight -fraSia
the marvellous nature that surrounds
it, and found In the contemplation
of this extraordinary scenery some
relief from the montony OF life IN
society so small and so isolated,
The three great mountain nasses
that tower over the city. emblems OF
solid and unchanging strength in
their form. are always changing i'll
their aspect The SHOWS creep down
in the season of rains, and ascend
again when the time of drought re-
turns. Sunrise and sunset bring per-
petual miracles OF loneliness In the
varying play of colors upon snow and
rocks.
Pchu Pichu. with it's long. gray line
of preCipiCes, CLOVIS under the Western
sun in every tint Of pink and crimson.
dark violet. while the SHOWS betweeA
them redden In the middle the broad
based cone of FL Alsti with its dark
lava flows and beds Of brown or yellow
ash, ranges from glowing orange to 4
purple deep As il the mountain were all
/ color to its core Behind IT, wnAn
twilight comes there rises to the
family touched by the light that Is
No wonder that this solemn and ma
jestic summit. traditions'of whose OUT
bursts Of fire in days gone by sim
survive, has been persunifed and WoF-
SHIPPED by the Indians, who. though
'uotrually Christians, have, like other
primitive races, retained great deal
+ If the ancient nature religion which
sees spirits iu ali remarkable OBJECTS
The reverence for the mountain deities
though it seldom takes form in saeri-
fees like those of the oldcn time, when.
as tradition says, YOUTHS and maidens
were flung into the crater TO appeass
the wrath Of the fire spirit
city OF omen in black.
Built far more solldly than Lima.
{ with house walls five or six feet thick.
and lying more out Of the stream OF
undermining conditions, Arequipa has
retained an air OF antiquity, and, Vt
may be said. of dignity, superior 70
that Of the capital
yistas. but one misses the bright
| culors Of peasant dress which a city of
Old Spain or italy would show. The
black manta drawn over the head 10
absolutely prescribed for church, in
deed, even a European visitor IS NOT
allowed to enter church anywhere IN
these countries IN hat or toque, she
must cover her head with the manta.
The houses ere low fer here' 100.
+ streets roughly paved with large cob
blestones of hard smooth lava. Streams
Of water drawn from the river run
down many Of them. and other streams
/ water the fields along the outskirts.
Here and there one sees garden
planted with dark green trees, which
relieve the glare Of light. The Plaza
less ample than that of Lima, is hardly
less striking. with the great pile of the
! Cathedral occupying more than half OF
I one side of it, arcades filled with shops
bordering the other three sides. flowers
and shrubs planted in the middle
City That Recalls North Africa.
Everything reminds one Of the ASH
attic or North African East--the long.
low blank house walls which enclose
the streets. walls into. which few and
small windows open. because the NV
ing rooms look into a central yard or
patio: the concentration of the better
I sort of shops TN arcades which repre-
sent the Eastern bazaar the nat roofs
on which people sit in the evenings:
the deep and pungent dust the absence
Of wheeled vehicles; for everybody
rides the richer on horses and the
scantIy dressed Indians, wild looking
/ as Bedonius, though with reddish
brown instead of yeliowish brown
Instead of eamels there are llamas.
the one native beast OF burden in Peru.
much smaller than the camel and more
7 handsome. but not unlike IL IN its large
lustrous eyes. and in the poise OF its
long neck, with the small erect head
slightly thrown back. 1t resembles the
camel also In it's firm resolve not 10
move except at it's own fixed pace. and
TO bear no load heavier than that (of
one hundred pounds) TO which 1t Ia
I accustomed,
The brilliant light. too. and the dry.
keen air are like the light and air OF
the East. But no Eastern city has
around tt a mountain landscape like
this One must place Tunis or Trebi-
xond in the valley of Zermatt To get an
IMPRESSION of Arequipa as IL stands.
encircled by SNOW fields and majestic
towers Of rock.
(By special arrangement with the
Macmillan company from south
America. ObserY atoms and impress
sions" by James Bryce. Copyright.
1912. by the Macmillan company Copy
right. 1913. by the Macmillan company-1
Trucks in New York City.
There are more than 1000 trucks In
operation In New York city alone
King George OF England dislikes
horseback riding.