The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1913-06-21
FEAT SUBSTANTIATED
BY SCIENTIFIC DATA
4 Peak Among Northern
Clouds, Made Famous by
Nonperformance of Doctor
Cook, Reached on Clear
Day-Thonas Lloyd Ex-
petitions Flagpole Is
Sighted Through Glasses
lsnecial ptsaatch to The can


SEATTLE. June 20. - Archdeacon
Hudson Stuck. Alaska missionary and
explorer, on June conquered the
highest pinnacle OF Mount Mckinley.
the highest peak of the North Amer
lean continent, and won the coveted
distinction of being the first man to
set foot there.
News of the achievement that viii
be read with envy by mountain climb
ers throughout the world came to
Seattle in private cable message
from Archdeaeon Stuck himself. early
this afternoon. The message was sent
to a member of the Times staff, q per-
sonaI friend of the archdeacon.
The successful expedition OF which
Archdeacon stuck was the head. left
Fairbanks Alaska. for the mountain
several months ago. The party in
Guided only three others besides stuck
and was equipped like a typical pros
pector's expedition-as lightly as pos
sible Harry p Karstens. famous
Alaskan dog team musher, and r.
O. Tatum and Walter Harper. all Of
a airbanks. were the men who went
with stuck
CABLE6RAM TELLS STORY
The news in Arehdeacon stuck's
cable message is best told by the mes
sage itself which is as follows:
Expedition successful. Accomplished
frst complete ascent of Mount Nc
Kfnley June :.
H. P Earstens, r. G. Tatum, Wal
ter Harper and I reached top of south
Cthe highest of alp peak on clear
day when it was possible to read the
angles OF the mountains, other prom
inent points and make certain that
the peak we had conquered was the
highest OF all.
We successfully carried a mercurial
barometer to the top and made com
pIete readings and observations which,
with simultaneous readings at Glib
bon. should permit close approxima-
ton of the true altitude when proper
corrections are applied Water boiled
ar 174.9 degrees. The present estt-
mate of the SUBMITS height is upward
of 20.50o feet
SEES LLOYD FLAGPoLE
we were able TO read angles on all
prominent points With field glasses
we clearly saw the flagpole erected in
1910 by the Thomas Lloyd expedition
on the north peak tthe lower of the
two main peaksl.
After completing observations on
the summit we hoisted the American
flag on the upper basin, erected a six
foot cross. and said re Deum' on the
highest point of North America.
we spent three weeks in continu-
Gus bad weather hewing a passage
three miles long through this ridge.
Rrhis was the chief cause of delay, as
we made rapid progress at all other
stages of the journey"
DELAYED BY ICE ON RIDGE
The expedition, which left Fair
banks March IS, expected to reach the
summit of Mount Mckinley early in
May, but was delayed three weeks
cutting a passage three miles long
through Ice thrown across the ridge
by an earthquake last summer
The party found much evidence Of
seismic disturbances on the upper
ridges. The upper basin shows evil
dence OF a violent upheaval and the
ridges are badly shattered. but the
SUBMITS are not marred.
Archdeacon Sucks party is the first
10 reach the summit of the south
peak. one other expedition reached
the top of the north peak, Thomas
1Jovd oe Fairbanks and three other
Alaskans making an ascent in the
spring Of 1910 and claiming the honor
Of being the first party to reach the
fop Of either Of the twin peaks of the
mountain. Lloyd attacked the noun
lain on the northeast face. crossing
MuIdrow glacier and working along
the northeast ridge to the summit.
DRIVEN BACK BY BLIZZARD
Last year Prof. HerscheI Parker Of
RrookIyn and Be1more Browne OF Ia
coma. who had previously failed IN
TWO attempts to climb the mountain
along the route described by Or. Fred
erirk 4. cook as the one he followed
an ne made his alleged ascent sew
eraI Years ago went over the route
used by the Lloyd expedition and were
wit6fn 200 feet Of the summit when
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