The Ordway new era., 1913-11-14
CTO BE CONTINUED.)
STORIES OF FAMOUS DISHES
Fifty Hams Into Ono Small Bottle
Famous Chef and His Dream
Of Muslc.

Cookery, never prosaic. has Its own
romances. Prosaic. on the other hand.
are those to whom Soubise merely
conveys suggestion OF glorified
onions; Crecy. a soup Of carrots; Col.
bert. a consomme with poached eggs.
The entree or the farce with
name is. however. the dish or flavor
ing with a. history OF its own. Al
though all are not as quaint and orig
inal as the famous story Of Nine. de
Maintenon's curl papers and the cut
let's en- paISilotes which bear her
name, a story attaches itself to many
Of them.
Round the famous Soubise sauce It
self the gossip OF the kitchen has WOW
en- a romance. II was the cook or the
Prince de Soubise, says the London
Evening Standard. whose talent In
vented the famous sauce which we re-
tain today, although Bertrands fash
ion of larding the gigot OF mutton 1t
accompanied has gone out Of fashion.
The chef had his own princely ideas
on what kitchen economy In princes
household should be. His master once
ordered him to prepare menu for
dainty little supper. He was a little
electrified to find that one item on the
bill consisted OF fifty hams. This al
lowance when the supper was smaii
and select must have been little as
touishing even In those prodigal days
do you intend to feast my whole regi-
ment-are you mad?" demanded Sou.
bise of his cook.
Bertrand replied that he could. II he
chose, get the nifty hams into glass
bottle. like the genii in the Arabian
Nights" the bottle being no larger
than his thumb. Thus were favorings
made in the kitchens of the great
chefs.
.Sause a la Chambord. which 10 a
| modern accompaniment to many fsh
| dishes, has come to mean sauce tast-
| ing of mushrooms. OF crayf1sh and
truffies, and made of all these good
things with the addition Of sweet
breads, sofe roes and other delicacies.
Originally, however. "Chambord"
merely implied larded fish. and was
applied to carp In particular. When
Francois I. married his son to Cathe-
rine de Medici her Italian suite intro
duced the French chefs Of the day to
many Florentine dishes. among them
being the fricandeau de veau. which
has remained French dish ever
since. At Chambord. whose ponds.
like the famous one at Versailles.
teemed with historic carp. the idea
came to the Italian maitre de cuisine
to lard the fattened carp as well as
the calf. and "a la Chambord" soon
spread all over France.
Napoleon Is said to have made tho
remark that more reconciliations and
happy arrangements were due to the
cook OF his famous chancellor than to
the nonentities OF the corps dipli-
matique OF nations who thronged the
antechambers Of the Tuileries. Cam
baceres was once the recipient on the
part of the town Of Geneva OF mon
ster trout caught in the lake. which
was at that time famous for Its hsh.
The trout and the sauce Ia Gene
voise. which accompanied the gilt.
cost the municipality about 5000 francs
which even in those days of reckless
prodigality was looked upon as feast
in culinary extravaganza.
Filets de boeuf a Ia Montgolner
have. as can be well understood. lost
their prestige in those days OF aero
plane. although no maker Of flying ma
chimes today seems to have had his
name coupled with beef or any other
flet They were so named. however.
because the shape Of the filets when
dressed resembling balloons. Filets
de volatile a Ia Bellevue. as we'll as
other dishes named in the same way.
originated. or were supposed to do so.
at the Cheteau de Bellevue. Here II
was that Nine. de Pompadour inaugu-
rated the "petits soupers du roi." to
do honor to which her chef strained
every nerve. -
English cookery. although far be-
hind that Of France or Italy. has had
It's romances. It Is related OF a duke
OF Beaufort. century or more ago.
that he gained great reputation for
his dinners. This was due to his nhi.
Ian chef. whose imagination and pow.
ers of origination made him compose
many a cymphony in food The chef
was also. In his own way. something
of musician. and one night, so the
story goes. he went to hear one Of
Donizetti's operas.
II was very late In the evening
when his master was aroused by
knocking at his bedroom door. 'It is
only I. Sig. Duca," the Italian Is re.
ported to have whispered. II have
been dreaming Of the music and have
Invented a sorbet. It shall be named
the sorbet la Donizetti. and could
not resist coming to tell your grace"