Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-03-23

pushing the head forward like turtles,
disarranging the hair at the back and
spelling the lines of the hat.
| 1t should be pulled out and back, far
] ing away from the neck and making a
transparent frame for the head. In this
way it is neither hot nor uncomfortable.
|
| 1t belongs on gown with high back
and low front, which may be square or
in as far as correctness goes. but 1t
rfolows the fashion of the day more
closely if it is in the latter shape. Only
opera and ball gowns have the square
decolletage in front these days, as the
surplice effect has ousted all else: even
the ball gowns are deeply V shaped in
the back.
This high, wired collar and the front
opening distinguish most of the new
models. The gown and blouse that fasten
| in the back no longer lead; the entire
tendency Of fashion is the reverse, which
/ is boon to man and superman.
| A significant forerunner toward the in
evitable tight bodice is the new separate
blouse. 1t is of fine. white net, made
without tucks or gathers pulled snugly
over the figure and embroidered to give
| 1t character.
| Some colored beads are used, also col
| ored floss, but the very smart ones are
| all white: the beads are of crystal, clear
| or Opaque, very small, and worked into
| designs, such as daisies. a prim little field
! flower that is now projected into the
| tropical luxuriance that riots over cos
| tumery.
The common garden variety of corset
cover would never do under this wisp OF
a blouse. so the elaborate underblouse of
,i,,1y ,l,;f whit CT ly
net has been invented as a substitute
This garment is merely a straight piece
of fabric placed around the figure. With
out armholes, and held up by ribbon or
lace straps over the shoulders. The nov
city lies in the way this underblouse is
trimmed with chiffon or satin roses.
which almost burst through the sheer
net blouse and take away from it any
unfinished, crude appearance Wh1ch II
might easily have.
The expert Seamstress at nome VIII
easily recognize that such a blouse is
much more difficult to make than the
ordinary kind we have had with us Tor
so long. When there are no lines to on
set poor fitting or break the smooth sur
face. then indeed, must the Workmanship
be superlatively good.
As the skirts of the season continue to
be high WASTED as well as excessively
narrow these transparent blouses look
as though they were made as part or
the gown. They are really separate ana
can be laundered or cleaned at WILL. SO
in that respect they offer an econom1cal
diversion in the summer outfit.
Early in the winter one could prophesy
that short draped wraps in colorful lab
RIGS would soon be a feature of fashion.
And they are here. The importers have
brought them over in large quantities,
and women with a talent for such things
are making them in the sewing room with
success.
wraps because they had their best show
ing on the Riviera in January, where the
fashionables. respectable and otherwise.
try out the fashions which the world
takes up in April if 1t likes them.
For these brocaded crepe de chine is
used. also satin brocade. Those of trans
parent stuffs are used as adjuncts to
evening gowns, as they happily convert
one which has a decolletage for ball
room into one that can be worn at late
formal afternoon affair.
They are confusing at first because of
their swirls of drapery, but after one
sees a quartet of them the main idea be-
comes fixed in the mind, and then the
charm of the draperies depends on the
grace of the woman wearing one.
Characteristic Of the seasons fashion,
they are extra broad at the shoulders.
above the knees. where they end, for,
mind you, they are short. Some just
escape the hips and are caught up to
the waist in front with one of the many
fascinating ornaments which are the de-
light of the expert designer.
~
Sulphur brocade that was surely meant
for some fine interior decorating Is used
to make most successful wrap Of this
kind. It has an Elizabethan collar of
thread lace. is lined with Chinese blue
mousseline. and is caught snugly about
the figure below the waist and held in
place with cameo framed in a gold
ribbon.
Another is of old pink figured satin
with q cloud gray chiffon lining with a