The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-04-06
the name of which the stoutest hea
In Lima trembled.
Lima's Old World Air.

the name Of which the stoutest heart
In Lima trembled,
I.ima's Old World Air.
For more than half the year, Lima
has a peculiar climate. u is never
cold enough to have fire but usually
cold enough 80 make you wish for one.
1t never rains. but it is never dry: that
is to say. 1t Is not wet enough 10 make
one hold up an umbrella. yet wet
enough TO soak one clothes.
Despite her earthqua kes and de-
spite her damp and nur~gw air, which
depreSSes the traveller who had look
ed for brilliant sunshine. the city Of
The Kings retains that ltght-hearted
gaiCty and gift for social enjoyment
for which size was famous in the
osd days. Not even political disasters.
nor revolutions more frequent than
earthquakes, have 6ulled the edge Of
pleasure
Lima retains more OF an old Span
ish air than do the much larger cap
itals Of the Southern repu blics, Argen~
tina, Chile. and Uruguay Its vice.
regal court was long the center Of the
best society Of the continent. It's arch
bishop was the greatest ecclesiastical
potentate in the Southern IemIs-
phere, It had closer connection
with Spain through it's leading fam
neis, than any other place.
Loyalty to the Spanish monarchy
was strongest here. II was the last
great city that held cut for the Cath
Ollie king. long after all tho other
countries, both To the north and south,
had followed the examples of revolt
set by Mexico and Argentina And
II is also, with the exception OF re-
mote and isolated Bogota, where some
few Spanish families are said to have
kept their European blood least
touched by native immixture, the
place in which the purest Castiiiau
is spoken and the castilian pride of
birth Is most cherished.
From CalIao II is two DAYS more
on to Mollendo, over a cold, gray,
tumbling sea, along a brown and
cloudshadowed coast.
Next to Cailao in It's importance as
Peruvian port. IS this little town
of Mollendo, for from il starts the
the principal railway in the country,
that called the Southern of Peru.
which climbs the Andes, traverses the
central plateau and sends out
branches to Cuzco Ohe capital of the
lncas) on the north. and on the south
east 10 the frontier OF Bolivia on the
shore of Lake Titicaea. IT fs the main
y.
\ Zigzag Trip to Wonderland.
The railroad runs south for some
miles between the cliffs along a
stretch of sand. on which the surf
booms in slow thunder, then leaves
the shore and turns up into the clouds.
mounting In long zigzags the steep
activities Of the mountain, and fol-
lowing here and there what were
hardly to be called elens, but rather
waterless hnllows. down which once
/ in nine or ten years a rain storm may
send a torrent
The nists grow thicker and damper
as one rises, and with the cooler and
damper air there begins to be a little
vegetation, some flowers and low
thorny shrubs. such as ane usually
found on arid soils. Away off TO the
south, occasional glimpses are caught
OF river valley far below. where tbs
/ bright green and yellow of crops or
the irrigated banks make pleasant
/ relief TO the monotony of the brown OF
black slopes up which we keep our
way. Curiosity grows more intense tc
/ know what lies behind those dreary
mountains.
| At last. after stwo hours of steady
| climbing TO height of over four thou.
| sand feet, the train reaches what
seems to be the top of the range, but
/ proves to be really the edge of 6
| tableland; as Ii energies on to leve
ground, il suddenly passes out OF the
mists into dazzling sunshine. ane
stops at a spot called Cachendo. VIZ
step out, and have before us view
the like of which We had never seer
before.
| In front. looking eastward. was q
| wide plain of said and pebbles witt
| loose niles and shattered ridges ol
| black rock rising here and theirs