The Washington herald., 1913-09-16
WOMAN AND THE HOME
French CouturierS ShOW
Fen Changes in Fashion

lowing her example. Several were in
cluded in her opening last fall. though 1t
was not until the spring that the style
received popular recognition. The strip
OF mink fur across the front Of the waist
coat suggests a watch chain. Another
touch OF the fur appears at the neck,
where a standing collar forms becom-
ing frame.
Her long coats were Offset by several
models, suggesting the Eton, and others
showing belted blouses, and the collars
were thick and bunchysi in effect, an idea
borrowed from the Japanese, which has
not departed with the other Oriental
ideas.
The length of the jackets has been
much mooted point, and with the doc
tors" OF the modes in disagreement on
the subject. one may choose whichever
style is most becoming. safe in the
/, thought that II it is becoming 1t is sure
to be fashionable. Some OF the couturiers
are showing a coat that reaches quite TO
the tops OF the shoes; others favor a
medium length. with godet basques and
wide belts; while still others cling to the
very short coats, which reach very little,
II any, below the waistline in the front,
though they may display tails in the
back. The later style, it must be ad-
mitted, is born of necessity rather than
choice. for how is one TO wear long or
medium length coat with one of the new
skirts, where the fulness sticks out per-
ceptibly from the hips to the knees?
Some Plain Dresses Left.
The long coats must be worn with the
plain dresses. and there are q few left.
though after viewing hundreds Of
lounces and tunics one is apt to remem-
ber only bouffant drapings and wired
tunics. With the pegtop and trouser
skirts. where the fulness comes from the
waist line to the hips or knees, the short
jacket must be worn, and the effect is
very jaunty and very girlish-that is. of
course. II one be tall and slender and
the designer of fashions seems TO have no
other model in his eye.
The two-tier skirt is well illustrated in
the model gown of blue serge. just the
type OF gown that one needs during the
fall days when the tang in the air makes
a cloth costume comfortable, yet IL is not
cold enough to wear a coat. The two
fiounces, 0r tunics, of this skirt are
trimmed with panels OF soutache, and one
separate panel falls almost TO the bottom
Of the skirt i'm the front. The soutache
embroidery is extended TO the blouse. and
the waist line is marked by a twisted
belt Of the braid. The yoke and sleeves
are cut III one pIcCeB anu tue SIl6ul IuI-
ness Of the sleeve is gathered into a cuff
Of the soutache edged with a strip OF err
mine. Another strip OF the fur outlines
the V-shaped neck, which is finished with
white satin collar. While there is moth
ing stri1ingly new in this gown, 1t Is
most decidedly wearable. and certain of
the new features have been adapted in a
form so conservative that they please
without calling forth comment on their
newness.
skirts Narrower at Ankles.
Though the new skirts do not lack IN
fuIness between thigh and knee they are
pititully scant and narrow at the feet.
clinging closer than ever around the legs
so that the effect OF pantalettes is often
given where such an idea had not orig
inaIly been intended. This extreme mar
rowness around the feet demad5 slash
ing, but the present day slashings have
been so cleverly provided for that even
the most conservative woman need not
hesitate to wear them. In the majority
OF cases. the drapIng conceals the slash
ing completely, until the wearer is in
motion and the slit makes locomotion pos
sible.