Evening journal., 1913-03-01
RICH COMBINATIONS OF ORIENTAL cOLORs
Many Variations in Sleeves
Characterize Gowns for
Early Spring
RUSSIAN AND
BALKAN BLOUSES

Of this material pictured on the first
figure. The soft gray Of the fabric
contrasts pleasingly with the black
panne velvet OF the girdle and lapels
Milan lace of the shade OF the gown
fashions the sleeves and chemisette
The drapery OF the sides falling in
soft cascades from above the knee
almost to the hem is a stylish feature
OF the skirt A two-poinJed train is
also a notable feature. Just here
let IL be said that the train, after long
neglect is again coming back for
carly afternoon wear Whether or
not II will be generally accepted re-
mains to be seen, as woman nowadays
prefers freedom and case Of movement
for all occasions where it is possible
TO adhere to the rule
In the construction OF the modern
sleeve there is great diversity Just
at present 1t Is the mode to have the
entire lower part made Of lace. They
may be set in the regulation armhole
or in the dropped shoulder as shown
IN the illustration Where the lace
Is of close mesh they are frequently
unlined, but it is advisable to have a
sheer lining or chiffon, net or soft
silk The simplest sort OF gown or
foundation by the addition of a
sleeve OF lace becomes at once pleas
ing and distinctive Add a large lace
collar Of similar lace dropping low
in the back and terminating either in
lapels or surplice effect in front and
no more effective afternoon gown
could be desired. Another popular
fancy is that OF wearing over a more
or less plain foundation a corsage OF
lace. This is really one of the most
modish fads OF the season. Frequently
the corsage is sleeveless and made on
the lines OF the fchu, back and front
II is short-waisted and requires very
little material so that odds and ends
of lace, either coarse or fine, may be
utilized for the purpose. The jacket
in black or white Chantilly is ex-
quisite, also that in Point de Venise
over q foundation Of color black lace
is particularly attractive. II may be
fashioned with or without revers and
decollete or high-necked. Laces in
order to be a la mode need no longer
be real. The imitation laces are
now considered equally smart. Rus
sian and Balkan blouses. both popu-
lar developments of the spring styles,
when worn over a bright color found
alton. arc also very attractive made
OF lace. These have the dropped
waist and are girded about by a
ribbon of Roman stripe,
chiffon in a bright shade of green,
cerise, or purple or silk i'm bright Ori-
entail. Bulgarian or Persian colors.
The idea Of lengthcning the waist al
the expense Of the hips is rather uni
que. but il is dccreed by fashion and
obedient woman bows to the inevit-
able The Balkan and Russian blouses,
however, are not confined TO bOudoirl
and house wear alone, but are seen
at all the fashionable rendezvous, de-
velopcd in many kinds of materials,
soft lustrous silk. charmeuse and
satin brocade, i'm light silk, heavy vel
vet and plush, in serge. whipcord and
broadcloth. They are also made OF
white and various bright shades Of
chiffon and are worn over a color
foundation. But although these
blouses are so popular. it doesn't
mean that peplums are no longer
fashionable. These still prevail both
on sharply cutaway, slightly rounded
ana square inchs incl tNNthu dihioo'
TO the hips at the sides and back and
impart TO the figure a slender, grace
full outline. Very charming are the
costumes developed in the now wash
summer silks They are not only
sorvicoable but have an air of
daintiness and style rivaling those of
much more expensive fabrics. The
gown OF the second Illustration was
made Of this material IN a dark green
and-white stripe. The collar is Of Car