Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-07
In the Land Of Fashion.
By Anne Rittenhouse.

piece OF cloth that hangs from the Shout
ders- and is gorgeouSly lined. 1t Is easy to
see that this fashion is d flicker back
ward from the durbar and it undoubtedly
gives to the dressmaker a chance to en-
nance the color scheme of a costume and
it gives the wearer opportunity for a
stately and dignified appearance.
A gown of tea tinted lace flounces built
over ivory satin has a court train of
Chinese blue satin with gold lily stamp
ed on it. 1t is draped at each shoulder,
drops downward in the center. following
the decolletage of the gown, is caught at
each side of the waist with a huge jewel
ed cabochon and then drops away to the
floor and trails for a yard behind the
skirt. The sleeves Of this gown are of
lace made in what was once called bat
fashion. The wide part is attached to the
train from shoulder to waist and then
drops in points to well below the knees.
The majority of trains are used over
frocks that are so covered with brilliants
that at first sight one thinks they must
be intended for stage spectacle. No
color is used on them whatever; as white
tulle has returned to favor it is used
over white charmeuse satin either in
fiounces or drapery and serves as a
background for SO many sparkling rhine
stones that one wonders if there will be
any left for another year.
There are fringes of brilliants strung
on silver and bands from one to six inches
Of closely sewn rhinestones and huge
motifs such as lilies, lovers knots, Chi
nese dragons and the winged ibis of
Egypt. The trains draped at the back of
such frocks are of sapphire blue velvet
lined with deep rose pink satin or of rose
pink plush lined with cream satin and lift
ed on one side, where they are caught
at the hip by an immense rhinestone or
other jeweled ornament A few of the
French dressmakers who like sumptuous
effects have bordered some of these trains
with ermine and others with sable. One
train of red velvet is lined with white
ermine. from which are omitted the little
tails of black and this is caught at each
shoulder with a star of brillants in imita-
ton of the Star of the Garter.
Another fairy queen effect that seemed
borrowed from the Drury Lane panto-
mime is a straight medieval gown Of tulle
entirely covered with seed brilliants This
idea is the outcome of that enhancing
loose theater coat that Drecoll invented
last summer for Trouville which was
made Of closely sewn porcelain beads
striped with bands of jet beads.
This white beaded frock is untouched by
trimming and the bodice is made from
layers of fesh-pink tulfe, over which are
necklaces of rhineStones. There are
small sleeves of tulle which supper.
fringes of rhinestones that end in tiny
pear-shaped pendants At the shoulders
there Is draped a bright rose velvet train
lined with white satin and reaching fully
a yard and half along the floor. To
bring it close to the skirt at the hips it is
caught with a crescent of pear-shaped
brilliants. AS though to carry out the
fairy queen idea. the dressmaker has
added to this costume a pointed crown
to wear I'm the hair made of silver tulle
studded with brilliants. 1t is like a BAN
deau and has five points in front.
There is no doubt that the brilliancy Of
the present moment in evening clothes
/ lies in a spectacular display of glittering
beads. This was heralded in the autumn,
but it did not reach it's apex until the
full swing Of the social season: Cabot
for instance, has made a dinner gown of
flesh pink tulle over which are swinging
fringes Of jet beads in various sizes.
These hang loose from waist to hem and
from shoulder to waist. They drop over
the bare arm, and one huge tassel falls
to the left knee.
All manner Of gowns have beaded orna-
ments as trimming. Plain satin frocks
which some women always prefer. have
the shoulders covered with fesh-pink
|tulle or f1esh-colored tulle, and there is
Ia wide difference between the two, and
the entire front of the bodice covered
with winged ibis Of rhinestones. There
seems no hesitation on the part of any
one to mingle real gems and near gems.
1t is difficult to tell at distance where
the rhinestones end and the diamonds
begin.
(Copyrigh 1918, by the Mcclure Newspaper
Syndicate.)