davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

eoo5 Fancy Blouse, a 10 30 bust.
The first step In the making is, Of
necessity, the cutting out. In the
three diagrams, the various pieces Of
the pattern are shown laid out in the
most economical way on material
twenty-seven inches wide for the
blouse, net forty-four inches wide for
the full front or vest. for in these
days more materials are to be found
in such widths than in any others.
The frill being only straight piece
OF slightly graduated width, you do
not. Of course, need any pattern. To
cut the vest, YOU must have the length
and in the forty-iour inch net. there
will be ample width beyond the vest
socut the lril Net gathers Just as
fell cut lengthwise as crosswise. YOU
ran cut two long strips, sew them
ogcthcr and then follow the direc-
lions on the envelope as to the finish.
First lay the pattern on the material.
the back Of the blouse on the material
folded lengthwise, the front and sleeve
oQ the second piece folded crosswiss.
for bhe full width will be needed Pin
carefully into place; then mark all
around the edge with tracing wheel
Il that is suited to the material, if not.
with piece Of tsilor's chalk or crayon.
After that is done, it will be quite easy
10 cut as far beyond that line as your
material will require TO make a good
seam. The outside edge Of this
pattern is the important one, for It is
the 'basting line and the one that
preserves the outline. Cut out the
portions Of the blouse and lay them
aside; then the vest and the strips
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

sidered the daintiest finish for lawn.
batiste and the like but even the de-
sign here could be reproduced on
crepe de chine quite as well as on
linen and cotton fabrics but. while
silk ,an be embroidered with success.
lace trimming is apt to be sufficient.
Silk blouses, net blouses and lace
blouses are all having great vogue
One Of the verv newest gives a sugges-
ton Of boolero ami. for very thin
materials, the accordion plating is
much liked. Transparent materials
are much used and charming effects
are obtained by arranging them over
Innings cut exactly like the outside
with the trimming arranged over the
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

Diagram shosDing vesi portion
and stay on material "A in. sOide.
ming Of buttons, this will be the time
to sew them on. Place them Just as
in the picture or in groups as YOU like.
Now fold the blouse with the right
side out and with the under-arm and
sleeve edges together. single and double
notches exactly meeting. Baste as
close as possible to the edge and stitch.
Then turn the blouse on the wrong
side and baste again, placing straight
strip of seam binding under one edge.
Stitch a second time on the traced
line that marks the outside edge Of
the pattern through both the material
and the binding, for the binding
being straight while the edges Of the
blouse are curved viii prevent all
stretching and keep the material in
shape UNDERTAKE. the lower
edges Of the sleeves and press. You
will now be ready 70 finish the front
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

Diogyam showing back on
material AZ IN. wide folded
lengthsOise.
sleeve. To form these, lap the two
smaller perforations to the two larger
perforations and baste into place.
Turn the straight edges Of the openings
under on the first line Of perlorations
from each edge. Again baste and then
lap onto the plated edges With the
inturned edges lust At the perlorations
and baste again; then stitch one-half
inch within each edge from the lower
edges Of the sleeves to a little above
the plaits; turn on the needle and
stitch across to the edges to give
strength. Remove hastings and. il
need be, press. The sleeves, the fronts
and the back OF the blouse are now all
stitched together and the openings in
the sleeves arc finished and the gar
ment has taken form as shown in
the illustration. If you like the trim
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

sHE blouse with raglan sleeves, or
sleeves that extend quite to
the neck edge. is the very
newest and smartest that has ap-
peared and this one makes an excellent
example. for it shows the style at its
best. Happily for the home dress
maker. the blouse is also an extremely
easy one to make. The sleeves are
loose and require no fitting and il is
only necessary 10 follow a few simple
directions to be quite certain Of sue
cess. The model IL a good one for the
entire gown that is made Of pretty.
light material and also is desirable
for the blouse to be worn With the
tailored suit or with an odd skirt. Il
appropriately can be made from net.
any one OF the thin, soft silks. wool
crepes and fabrics Of the kind. For
the center front or vest portion, net
is used in the illustration and net is
unquestionably one Of the most fash
ionabse Of materials, but It Is impos-
ibie to lay down any law as to the
details Of this kind. II the use Of
the blouse renders more sturdy
material desirable and II contrasts
well With the material used for the
main portion. a soft crepe de chine.
chiffon cloth or even messaline satin
could be used. The frills can be made
either OF net or Of lace.
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

tons, the shoulder and front edges
meeting. Turn on the seams and fell
into place Gather the blouse on the
penorations at the waist line. Adjust
on the wearer, draw up to the correct
size and stay with straight strip of the
material, taking care to place the
fullness where it is most becoming.
You have already cut the frill for the
neck as directed on the envelope.
Narrowly hem the outer edge or finish
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

tern of before placing it on the ma
terial. Follow the directions already
given in the diagram. the cuff
pattern is laid on to prov tide
the lining; cut the outside in
the same manner from the trimming
material and join the ends Of the cuffs
snd the Innings separately. Sew the
shaped edges together turn on the
seams and baste. Join the cuffs to the
sleeve edges, seams meeting. and fell
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

THERE is nothing like monotony
in the blouse Of today. It not
alone is made from a great
many different materials. it is also
much varied in style and cut. Women
who find them becoming may rejoice
in the loose kimono sleeves; those who
find the style little trying will be
glad to welcome the elongated shout
ders with the sleeves joined to the
blouse at that point; and those who
find every variation Of the kimono
trying will rejoice in the sleeves sewed
to the armholes.
The lingerie blouse never falls into
disuse. Just now hand embroidery
With just little lace insertion is ,on-
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

the lining over the seams Roll the
cuffs over and press.
Close the Tapped hens on the vest
portions with tiny buttons and button
holes. There will be needed three
and hve-eighths yards Of material
twenty-seven inches wide and three
quarters Of a yard Of net forty-four
inches wide for the vest portions
and the frills
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

to be outlined. To pad continuous
scailop rapidly and effectively cut a
skein Of thread. apply two or more
strands over the center Of the stamped
pattern keeping within the lines.
tack here and there in couching
style. gathering the threads closely
at each point and buttonhoIe closely
over this foundation; or work chain
stitches between the lines, heavier
at the center lighter at the points OF
the scallop&
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

long BY fifteen inches wide. Fold and
seam the sides. If liked shape the
lower edges by cutting the corners as
illustrated.
To work long and short stitch take
irregular stitches close together work.
ing slantwise from the center toward
the outer edge Of the pattern; no
padding is required. For solid en-
broidery cover closely with over and
over stitches. and outline the edges
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

with pioot or cut hem-stitching.
Gather the inner edge and join to
narrow band the exact length of the
neck edge Of the blouse. Adjust
under the blouse and stitch it. Make
desired width for the sleeves and finish
in the same manner.
II you have desired TO make the
three-quarter sleeves instead Of the
'on2 ones. you will have cut the pat
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

ior the friIl. We will suppose that the
'onE sleeves are to be used and the
pettern is to be left full size but, il
you desire the shorter sleeves, you
must cut the pattern of on the cross
line Of periorations. We will discuss
the finish Of cuffs later.
The sleeve pattern is marked with
three perforations near the front edge
and four near the back. so that it is
easy TO distinguish which is which.
The edges near these groups Of per-
forzxions must be underlined For
iscirsz, use lsnzthwise stripz ai the
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

edges and arrange the vest, or front
portions. under them.
Turn the front edges Of blouse and
vest portions, under on the perfora-
tons. Undertake the neck edge
OF the blouse Lap the front edges
over the vest portions with the fold
ed edges at the perforations. baste,
and stitch three-quarters Of an inch
within the edges. Gather the vest
portions at the neck edge
between the double crosses. Turn the
seam allowance on the. ends Of. the
sfays under and Join to the vest Dor.
Evening journal., 1913-11-24
HINTS FOR THE HOME NEEDLE WOMEN

DELoW Is a design for embrOid-
ID ering an infants short
kimono.
Patterns for stamping the front and
scallops for all edges are given.
The scallops are designed to be
padded and buttonholed; the sprays
Of leaves to be worked in solid en-
broidery or as eyelets and the stems
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

I TERE is design for ernbroid-
ering a slipper or work
bag
The work can be done In solid en-
broidery. all in outline or in COM
bination Of solid embroidery with
outline or Of outline with long and
short stitches To make the bag cut
a strip Of material forty-four inches
Evening journal., 1913-11-24

The blouse
after the fronts,
back and sleeyes
have been stitched
together. T he
next step stfH be
to close the
nndey-d arm and
sleeve seams sDher
the bioASe vsU
take form.
Evening journal., 1913-11-24
.OBLEMS IN DRESSMAKING
HOW TO MAKE a BLOUSE WITH RAGLAN SLEEVES
EpTToRIS NoTE:


berfdfnfne 10
general dessr1kiHg
gladly you stamped self Addressed ENVELOPE
May Manton, 3znd ST. New York CITY
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
MACK PERSUADES
PLANK NOT TOQU|T
Great Southpaw Promises to Sign
and Go South With Rest
of Team.

Philadelphia. Pa, February Icon
trary TO all expectations and to what
Plank had already announced. tho great
southpaw of the Athletics to-day gave
in to the personal appeal OF Manager
Mack, who called him on tho lorg dis
lance telephone At Gettysburg and fol-
lowed up his letter to him begging
him to become again member Of the
Athletics this ason.
Plank informed his manager that he
hid decided TO withdraw finally from
the game. ]; was not question OF
being a hOld-out, for the money that
Mack offered him was bigger than he
had ever received. The great south
paw reasoned with his manager and
told linn that he was well along in
years and that he had amassed enough
money 10 keep him for the rest OF his
life, ana that his farming interests
were such that he must attend TO them.
Despite this Mack argued ana rca-
soncd with his great star He told
him that he must play this year for
he had not been able to put through
any of the deals which he had in mind
IT the American League meeting, and
that all tho other managers had held
oct AGAINST trading him q pitcher
Mack said that he was W illinS to adj
nit that Without PLANK he had littlo
chance fur the pennant, and he not only
pleaded. but talked 10 his pitcher like
the owner of a corporation would talk
10 rival whom lie would not let get
out OF his sight. He then appealed
10 his sense of pride, for the love Of
the game ana Tor the honor of the
only major team that he has ever be-
loneod to, and finally Mack. the Won
dorful magician. who Inolds mems
minds like putty in the master sculp-
tors hands, won oGt. and obtained
Plank's consent 10 play just one more
year. After he was through with his
argument Mack wiped the perspiration
from his forehead ana said: Phew.
that was some job believe me. 1t
cost S7.I5 for that telephone call 10
Ge1ty sburg. but / guess that's cheap
enough TO have a l.itcher like Eddie
on my star once again"
Plank promised Mack to sign his con-
tract ard put 1t in the mail tonight,
and h vii! tal.e the trip TO the South
with rho rest OF the Athletics next
Friday, when they leave here
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
ond's Duty Is to Attend the Auto Show
THORPE WILL PROVE
BIG DRAWING CARD

good bot that John j. McGraw would
never nave trifed with the greatest
modern athlete IL he had not been
reasonably certain Of latent possibili-
ties In this prospect
me very fact that Thorpe signed
WIN tho Giants Ia grand testimonial
to McGraw's shrewdness. Nearly every
major league club had made overtures
TO tho indian before tho leader OF tho
Giants decided to enter the market
DIX or seven clubs had already sent
scouts to Carlisle empowered to offer
exceptional Inducements. McGraw did
HIS own business personally by wire
It is doubtful IL he paid as rreat a
salary as other rivals had offered But
Thorpe--or his mentor-Glen Warner
appreciated the fact that the bkla.
homa redman could not possibly GO TO
better instructor
Getting right down to hard pan.
Ihorpes baseball future is more or
less of gamble. He is not n great
player now. lie could not be exneoted
ito be such. Baseball has been a side
line with Thorpe ever since he deserted
the reservation in search of nm eduoa
ton. he paid some little attention to
tho game when no first went to Car
Isle because he loves this sport. But
warner enever permitted him to de-
velop his talents along these lines
Thorpe was too great an all -round nth
,ete W waste on amy ono speciality.
Warner singled him out and persuaded
him to sacrifice the baseball opportunl-
Ties for track and field sports Big
Jim was allowed TO sub on the nino OF
the INDIANS when not engaged in track
meets and did very we'll Indeed as
pitcher and first baseman He was
good enough to go out In tho summer
time and earn fair salary In the OBJ
scure minors. Then Carlisle tabooed
baseball and Jim dropped tho sport on
tirely.
He stands to-day where he LETT of
AT the end CT 1903. In three years he
has been idle, SO far as the diamond
Is concerned.
If the great Indian is possessed OF
tho proper talent he will take his place
among me great stars. AIcGraw pos
sibly did not realize Thorpe's senti-
inents when he began to negotiate for
him But now that he has been APP
prised OF them you may be sure that
iim Thorpe VIII not suffer through lack
of opDortunity
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
TINKER NARROWLY
ESCAPES INJURY
Manager Of Cincinnati National
League Team Has His
Auto Wrecked

Chicago February 16.-Joc Tinker.
manager of the Cincinnati National
league baseball team, narrowly es-
capped serious injury here last night
In an accident, in which his automo-
BILE was wrecked, il was learned to-
DAY. Tinkers car had both front
wheels torn off and the stearing gear
smashed.
Tinker said tho accident was due
20 The sudden failure of a street la;un
! was nearing my home" he said.
When the electric lamp at the corner
went out was blinded by the change
end thinking saw some one ahnsG
% me, turned the car into the curb .
me machine was not overturned
|. ana Tinker was not thrown out.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
WILL MEET Y. P.|.
ON HOME FLOOR
Washington and Lee Quint
Leaves for Blacksburg; Then
Will Take Northern Trip.

Especial 10 The Dispatch
Lexington, Va, February 16.-Thc
Washington and Ice University bas-
ketball team left this morning for
Blacksburg, where il Will Monday aft
crnoon meet the Y. T.. I. cadets on
their home floor. The Qunt leaves
home with an unbroken string of vic
tories TO its credit, V. J.. ]. having
been among those vanquished in the
gymnasium here, and there is strong
hope among tho White and Blue con
tingcnt that the cadets will be taken
into camp in 6lacksburg.
From Black shurs the team will go
North for the annual trip, on which
six games VIII be played. Yale will
no met I'm New Haven or February is.
Then follow contests with ST Johns
school, az Manlius, y. y, on February
10; Pratt Institute, az Brooklyn. on
February 20. Wesleyan University.
Middletown, Conn, on February -.
and College OF the city of New York
m New York. OH February 90 Last
Years showing against the Northern
teams was cXcollent. and there is every
prospect ot.a. better showing this year.
Manager .ponafiue took with him
on the trip. CAPTAIN Burk, Garrett and
Francis. guards; Miles, centre: Bear
and Mccain. forwards Physical hi
rector Pollard accompanied the team
TO Elacksbur..
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
COBB WILL. INSIST
ON HIGHER SALARY
Will Not Sign Contract With
Detroit for Less Than
$4,000 Year.

Detroit Mich, February LEY
Cobb's brothcr-in-la o. ~. Lombard,
received n letter from the famous Tiger
hold out yesterday asserting that Ty
rus is in earnest about that SlJ,00o-a-
year proposition. He realizes that now
or never is the time for him to obtain
large income from baseball.
lie is alive TO possibilitics--that II
he should sign threc-y year contract
now for "A lower figure than no thinks
he is worth he might be going back
when the time TO sign another contract
rolled around and he thus would not
have Just claim to Il higher salary.
lie also takes into consideration that
in the desperate chances he takes on
mlncnt and disabling injury any day
and end his value as player.
SO he wants TO get aS much money
out OF the game as possible before such
a catastrophe takes place. He thinks
that he Is entitled to more money than
any other baliplayer ever received be-
cause OF tho fact that ne risks his life
and limb in chances that no other
player ever took, even if his actual
value to the club does not warrant it,
The letter Is moro significant because
Ty requested that II bo withheld from
publication and regarded as confiden-
tai For this reason MIR. Lombard
would say very little about its con-
tents The substance as above outlined
he admitted under questioning Ty
Is not trying to force President Navin's 3
hand. lie is simply awaiting the club
owners next move.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
NUMBER OF CHANGES
ON LAMBETH FIELD

be fiat. surrounded by n balustrade
This second unit OF tho stadium cost
about $4,000.
The third and last unit OF the s,ad
iun is 10 DO erected the coming spring
and summer. the stadium complete TO
De dedicated on the day OF the Wander
oiit-Nlrginia football game, on tho first
saturday In November. This final unit
VIII occupy that portion OF the field
where was located the baseball grand
stand. This wooden stand has been
torn down. and the grading of the bank
nearly completed. Over 1000 cubic
yards OF earth have been removed. and
as there Is danger OF the ground set
ting there. the section canot be erect
&c until the warm weather scts In
The stadium complete viii represent
an outlay OF $4,000. and Virginia can
then boast or the best athletic grounds
in the entire South.
The athletic field itself Is being on
largcd at the western end Grading
lis now in progress, the dirt removed
being used In tho Improvement OF the
lower field. which WAS used last fall
tor football purposes. especially when
secret practice was desired
The location Of the proposed athle-
tic clubhouse is yet unsettled. This
site originally selected was on the hill
above the main entrance to the
grounds. but IL is now probable that
IL VIII be placed at the southeast end
or the athletic Held
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
McGraw Shows Great Business
Sense in Signing Indian
Athlete.
Especial to The Times-DIspatch.l

Especial to Tho Times Dispatch.1
New York, February 16.--Jim Thorpe,
the most wonderful athlete of history,
will try for regular position on the
New York Giants this year. He may
make the team. lie may not. But
whether he does or not. he will prove a
drawing card Of sufficient merit to re-
ward Manager John j. McGraw for all
tho trouble and expense to which he
was put In securing him.
McGraw has turned any number OF
clever tricks in his career as II base
ball manager. None of them showed
more business sense than the signing
OF mo aborigine who Is just now the
talk or. the entire world. McGraw
came to the Polo Grounds whom tho
Giants were the laughing stock and
the joke or tho sporting world He
delivered the goods He gathered a
bunch OF real ball players He nut
New YORK on the baseball map. He
laid the foundation <or financial re-
turns which made possible the won
derful Brush Stadium and the modern
POLO Grounds. at once the envy and
tho pride or organized baseball.
no one better than McGraw realizes
me advantage OF advertising. Per-
maps ne had some motive along this
iine when he decided to go out after
Glen Warmers wonderful Indian. He
realized that Thorpe would prove n
great drawing card for several ,nonths.
whether he was much use as a PLAYER.
hc could afford to take a chance. be-
cause OF the popularity of baseball
law which binds talent to u club in
dehnitelE. but which allows that club
me privilege of casting adrift from
undesirable talent on ten days notice.
sun behind IL all McGraw appears
most sincere in his move He hopes
TO make baseball player out Of Jim
Ihorpe. 1t is not probable that tho
iittc leader OF the champion Giants
would have bothered with the Indian
ne had not thought there was homo
OF developing him into something
worth while. Doubtless tho advertise
Ing Possibilities appealed to him more
or less. But at the samn tirnn IL o
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
K|V|AT | OVERS
INDOOR RECORD

Few York. February i6.--Abol Kiyiat. tho
irish y mcrican athlete who came originally
from staten Island. nut AL kind Of crimps
ihto the prctcnsions of aspiring mile runners
last night At the games Of Columbia TINT
!ersity. held In tho Scvcnty-iirs; Regiment
he ran a mile IN minutes is Is seconds
uepFlNlnS oscar Hcdlung OF the Boston s
n. OF the credit or the worlds indoor rec
ord of i:lS i-5. which ho achieved at the.
Ncw ork Athleti" games on wednesday,
IheTe was 10 question of the superiority OF
me staten Islander In addition 10 defeat
ing Hedmnd by twenty-five yards. kiviat
leit Norman Tabor. the hope Of Brown Uni
vsrslty htrasglng IN tho rear at lcas
eighty yards behind The race was for the
baNtcr Gun. Kiviat Jumped away In the
ieHu' ana az the quarter held Il lead OF two
yards on Tabor. with Uedlund in third place
Nearing the hnifWile Hcdlund raced by S(
nor and was yard and a half hehiuu
hivlat when the Irish American passed the
half pole. 2:0s Is "
Wo laps from the finish Hedlund made an
attempt TO pass Klviat. but tho latter in "A
tte@t spurt' ran M though the race was Just
nef'nhlng, and opened up a gap OF twenty
'!Nc yards before he nj; the tape
Apart fiom the performances Of Kiyiat N.
iHlefNai ~ the intercollegiate race in which
Ddf lihouth Columbia and Fordham carried
on the hoiots Dartmouth's aucccss WINS
INC mort pronounced because In inc twn
, ,niie relay Won by tho Iauoveriane, they
were opposed w the Cornell team with Holm
IHui ZONES ds the anchor man.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-02-17
FIRST Of GIANTS
LEAVE FOR TEXAS
M'Graw in Charge of Advance
Guard, Who Start for
Training Camp.

New York, February 16.-The van
suard of the New York National
League team. headed by Manager John
i. McGraw, left this afternoon for rho
teams training camp at Marlin, Tex.
~ good sized crowd was at the Penn
sylvania terminal to see the departing
Giants of and wish them luck.
Christy Mathewson. the star boxman.
thompson. Hartley, Goulait. and Evcrs
comprised the playing contingent with
inc manager. Along the route, at
Harrisburg, Pa; ST Louis and noints
In the South. other members Of the
team will join the party.
never make predictions" said Nc
'Traw' when the subject of pennant
prospects was preached. Baseball is
a very uncertain thing. However I'm
gong TO pitch right In and work
hard"