The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1913-03-05
PRUNING FRUIT TREES.
Clemson College Extension Work -
south Carolina Experiment station
-Prcss Bulletin No. 1O7.
(By q. NJ. Clark. Assistant Horticul-
turist)


turist.)
Pruning Is necessity where best
results are to be expected from fruit
trees. a tree can be given all the
attention possible relative to cultiva-
tion and fertilization. but unless it is
Judiciously pruned the branches be-
como thick. weaken and die. These
become thH harboring places for in
sects and fungous diseases which prey
upon the tree and fruit. Even If the
branches do not die, they become so
thick that the sunlight and air are
excluded to such an extent that the
fruit Is inferior i'm size, color and
quality. Well pruned, low headed
trees, having the bearing wood well
distributed, and being stout and
stocky, are able To bear and hold up
crops 4, fruit They also facilitate
spraying. thinning and harvesting.
They are also by far more orna-
mental in appearance than the awk-
ward. long-limbed unpruned trees.
Pruning is necessary, therefore. when
the best trees and first class fruit are
desired.
To get the most satisfactory results,
pruning should be done every year.
BY annually heading back and TRIM
ming out the small branches during
the early life Of the tree and remov-
ing a dead branch here and stray
limb there, in after years the tree can
be kept in good, healthy fruiting con-
dition, and II will never be necessary
TO cut out large limbs or unbalance
the tree by very heavy pruning.
Pruning should consist more in direct
ing the growth each year than by
checking IL by one heavy pruning
which is TO make up for years OF neg
lcct. II tree Is properly directed and
shaped whcr young II will never be
necessary Co cut out many branches
or large limbs in Later years.
Pruning shDdld commence when
when the tree Is planted. When the
5 tree is planted. cut back the dead and
broken roots TO good living wood.
leave clean, smooth cut The
young tree should be pruned back to
the height the head OF the tree Is to
be formed, which height should be
consistent with the methods OF culti-
vation. 1 would suggest 16 to IS in
ces for the peach and "a to 80 inches !
for the apple and pear. perhaps low
er In the case OF the varieties of pears |
commonly grown in the South. II
tho young tree Is whip-like the side |
buds may bc allowed TO form leaves
the first season 90 cause IL to become
stout and stock. II It Is stocky en-
ough. all the buds may be rubbed off
as they start, except those intended TO
form the main branches of the tree.
IL Is a common fault to start a tree
with too many main branchs. which
afterward crowd each other to such
an extent that II becomes necessary to
cut out large limbs. Three or four
main limbs, 10 properly placed, are
enough for any fruit tree. The main
limbs should be we'll arranged around
the tree and at slightly different
heights on the main axis After the
first seasons growth. all branches, ex-
cept those just mentioned. should be
cut away. and these should be head
ed back about half. The annual prun-
ing afterwards will consist largely
In heading back the previous seasons
growth and keeping the head thinned
out on the upright growing trees,
such as the Kelffer pear. prune TO a
bud point outward so as to cause the
head 10 spread. When the tree be-
gins to bear full crops OF fruit it will
not bear surplus amount OF wood,
hence very little pruning will be nee
essary. except In the case OF the peach
tree. This should be thinned out and
headed back even after II Is bearing
full crops Of fruit. Pruning is best
done when the trees are dorman.,