The sun., 1913-11-09


the broad black MORE sash in front over
the shoulders there was "A superb black fox
skin, in the new rug shape A Hat nun to
match was finished of with paws and
tails and the folded Indian turban had two
large black mounts standing out at either
| side
This was really effective toilette and it
made an agreeable sensation when its
wearer walked. very slowly. down the
long vcsiihulc. ! noticed that several of
tho s'nariest women present wore Shoes
which matched in color their turs This IL
the very latcst idea For example a lad,
in waiting toa RNssian Grand Duchess " no
Is at present staying at tho Ritz wore
picturesque gown Of black satin with a
wide scarf OF chinchilla similar to that
shown in my first sketch
She carried a bolster nun of the same
fragile fur and her shoes were made Of
! gray suede in a dark chinchilla shade. with
large silver buckles, Her stockings.
which were plainly visible under her
clinging skirt. were Of black silk and she
wore immensely long black kid gloves
wrink led up over her arms
One or two Cf tn. pretty actresses
|
AS emerald green and rose Du Barry. Per.
sonalIv detest these unnatural furs but
it must I've admitted that an emerald green
, foN skin looked remarkably effective
stretched across the shoulders of an
emerald green velvet coat In the case
of the rose Du Barry fox SET it was worn
over n sheath gown Of black satin and in
junction with a small fiat hat made Of
black silk beaver
This material il extremely popular
with the best miliners II is the same
beaver az hat Used for mems silk hats and
in the present small shapes il looks won
derfrlly smart and attractive
On glancing down the long vestibule
ono was struck Ivy the similarity Of the
hat shapes Nearly all were small and
three-quarters were extremely narrow
in the brins and trimmed with exagger-
atedlv high mounts This style Of hat
I has become a sort OF uniform in exclusive
circles; and it is a pity, for though it is
very fattcrng to women of small features
and pretty hair it is capahlc Of looking
ridiculous in other circumstances
One Of the most charming ar,is,es
present yesterday afternoon was Mile
Of taupe skin lined with lemon yellow
satin. Her gown was of taupc gray mirror
velvet and there was touch of deem
orange in her little black hat
Taupe is very popular this winter
As a rule il Is used in the construction ot
the fas hionae wide scarfs which in them
selves form wrap; it is also Used for long
straight ties and bolster mufys and worn
in conjunction with tailored suits Of
taIpc duvetyn or with picture gowns Of
heavy black satin.
I promised las, week to give few
details about the methods of some Of the
great Partisan dress artists. II is not
my intention to mention names and
shall not give more than three character
studies at most
This afternoon lei me introduce yo,i
10 very famous parsonage whom shall
call NJ Raoul He is still young. not more
than ~ at most 1t has been said that he
resembles Edmond Rostand. and there
certainly is "A likeness between the two
artists So far as coloringis concerned
Raoul has just the same splendid blue
gray eyes and fresh skin as "Ie Roi dc
,Cambo
methods is that he very often works from
the jewel to the dress instead OF the
reverse The first time ! ever saw him
he was standing in his private studio
holding "A strange jewel in his hand II
was large plaque, intended for the front
of IA corsage and made of translucent horn
in "a mysterious shade of blue: in shape it
was oval and il was richly encrusted with
iiiigrec silver and inset with aq,iamarines
and seed pearls. Ararely lovely thing and
one which had evidently inspired the great
designer.
All round him there were lengths and
lengths of fragile materials, chiffon and
tulle in delicate shades of pink. blue. pa
gold and ivory. further away there were
frinGes and emhroiderics in silver and
crystal 4 tail mann"auin with nut
brown hair and classic features was stand
ing before him, mutioness; close by was
All expert assistant.
Raoul seemed like a man in a dream
From time to time he spoke a few words
Ond then length of EanHc or embroidered
chiffon was drapcd over the manneuiin
Sometimes 1t was right. far more often il
was wrong and had To he unpinned and
replaced. For quite quarter OF an hour
J watched the building mp process with
fascinated eyes. Then in single in.
slant the real inspiration came.
Raoul himself caught up some lengths
of precious stuffs. With trembling hands
hc threw them in this direct ion and that
They were posed and superpos.d over the
classic motionless form 1t was tinishedl
\ unique creation had been born. II
was "A dream of dawn" All the faint
dawn tints made their presence felt. The
costume was simply exquisite. pinned
together only as yet, but a genuine crca-
ton
RaouI drew a long breath With smile
he tendcrly replaced the jewel in It's black
satin case and sat down He had designed
ii robe which would make "1out Paris"
talk, for II was To be worn by a very famous
beauty at an important entertainment
Within "A short half an hour he had created
a toilette worth, with his name attached
to II, many thousand francs but his salts
faction was the satisfaction of "A real
artist
Next week, If space permits, shall
say "A few words about one of the leading
woman dress,nakers Her methods arc