Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1913-07-12

New York, July 12.-When the fash
ion bee begins buzzing around in a
bowler the lid is soon off. In other
words, though mere man may scott and
deride the fashionable foibles of the
weaker sex he simply knows no limit
when a question of his own sartorial
smartness is concerned.
Now that lovely woman has discarded
her waist line it is only meet that the
opposite sex should pull it in! Woman
has brOadened in more senses than one
while man has narrowed up his waist
line to his viewpoint Shoulders, too,
have undergone renovating and mar
rowing process and all pads have been
cast off with reckless abandon. In
deed the shoulders of the many have
been relieved of a Hureulean burden
and Percy's new spring Norfolk is no
longer padded cell.
The lounge suit Of the moment is of
dark blue serge when the coat is dou-
BILE. breasted, of worsted or homespun
for the single-breasted cut. These lat
ter mixed effects are good in shades
of grey or brown and even a greenish
mixture is verdant with hope of pop
ularity. The ultra Norfolk jacket is a
favorite in the black and white check
of the perennial shepherd plaid whose
vogue seems never checked. With all
the coats curved in as to waist, au nat
urel as to shoulders, with sleeves tight
and trousers ditto, the truth of the say
ing that clothes make the man is all
too plainly revealed
To get at the top Of things the straw
hat that shows which way the fashion
able wind blows is a rough sennit with
medium brim, rather high crown and
wide, plain band. Although this hat
stands at the head, Mackinaw, Swiss
and other novelty straws cover a multi
tude of pates.
The song of the shirt this summer is
a trifle loud. Coral pink, azure and
mauve are favorite all-silk shirts whose
bosoms are mass of tiny pleats or pin
tucks. They all show the soft turn
back French cuffs. With cuffs and
bosoms Of filmy white linen these gid.
dy-hued silk shirts are very smart for
evening wear with the informal dinner
Jacket The well,groomed man Of con-
servative proclivities, however, hardly
feels in the pink of condition in pink
silk shirt even if it does blush unseen
beneath his coat.
Perhaps the most exclusive shirts are
made Of the striped cheviot but these
have the disadvantage of being a bit
too close woven and heavy for comfort.
able hot weather wear. Cubist mono.
grams in Futurist colorings stamp neg.
ligee shirt sleeves with masculine ap.
proval and handkerchiefs monogramed
to match are the last word for the nose
that knows and is up to snuff, A nov,
city shirt whose surplus tail is thrifty
converted into underdrawers is simply
painting to attain popularity with tn,
summer man and comes in madras, lin.
en- and mixtures of silk and cotton.
Turn over collars with exaggerated
long points have taken masculinity by
the throat. 1t is merely a matter Of
taste however, whether the corners be
pointed or rounded but all the fold col
lars are showing wider openings in pref
erence to the closely meeting fronts Of
last season.
Bulgarian and Futurist scarfs fought
hard for first place upon manly bosomi
this season but met only with defeat
Beau Brummels Of 1918 refused to tit
up with them. Rather wide bow tiei
and narrow fourin.hands in singl,
tones or stripes and small designs holC
equal places in the summer cravat case
II is tie which is the favorite.
For formal afternoon wear the even
ing coat is paradoxically correct. II
takes precedence over the erstwhil,
frock coat and Is worn with gray
striped trousers, fancy waistcoat ana
a white or pale tinted shirt. Either
wing or fold collar is permissible ant
you may take your choice Of an Ascot
four.in'hand or bow tie to turn yo,
into fine figure Of fellow.
In summer the dinner jacket is goot
for any occasion ofthe least formality
It Is diverse in form to suit the mos
ficltle fancy and it is purely matte
Of personal taste whether It be singh
or double.breasted with sleeves cuffet
or plain, slit or diagonal pockets, flap
ped or unflapped. Only one thing 4
decreed positively for good taste-th,
waist coat and tie must be black. Con
servatism is the best tip for the we'll
dressed man. He is sartorially sage VIII,