Evening journal., 1913-03-15
DIVERSITY OF STYLE In THE NEW COATS
Wide Range Of Rich COlOrS
Seen in Advance Spring
Fashions

simulated front closing trimmed with
buttons. A slight fulness is notice
able at the back waistline The pleat-
cd inset at the lower edge is OF black
broadcloth similar 10 that used for
the jacket II preferred, the inset
may be omitted, IN which event the
front skirt is not cut away but eN-
tends 10 the hem Pleats are also
inserted al the center-back, very
necessary precaution since skirts have
been gradually narrowing more and
more about the feet until II IL we're
not for the Introduction Of some such
feature walking would be almost im-
possible The model would develop
10 equally good advantage IN any of
the new summer sultng fabrics,
ratine. araric cponge or linen.
Gone are the demure tones OF black
and white which have SO long prevail
ed I'm the realm of fashion, resembling
the pen-and-ink drawings OF a Christy
or a Gibson They have been sup
planted by all the brilliant colors OF
an old-time garden the blues OF the
larkspur, and forget-me-not. the
pinks Of the rose and apple-blossom,
the reds of the fuchsia and gcranium,
and the yellows of our national gOl-
dcn-rod and of the squash Of the vege-
table garden For trimmings the
whole range Of oolorings have COM
bined For gowns and suits one, or,
al most, two tones are discreetly
chosen. Yellow dresses for day wear
are among the latest novelties. With
their biz OF drapery and long sleeves
that give a touch life spring sunshine
10 the other somber winter colorings,
they are very attractive. For even
ing, too. yellow prevails. chiffon and
deep-toned laces showing through
their daphanous folds glimpses Of
gaily-coiored Sabrics Girdles In
green and gold are suspended over
foundation Of deeper-toned yellow mes
saline One Of the few garments other
than the conventional evening wrap,
IN which the Balkan colorings are OBJ
served throughout Is the smart little
afternoon and evening coatee known
as the "Pompadour' In line this
wrap makes no pretense of adherlng
10 the contour Of the figure but mere
~ suggests IT, The sleeves are Of
raglan cut the back falls in two sec
tions from The waistline. each OF
which rs gathered 70 a point and orna-
mented and Weighted by silk tassol;
the front Is smartly cut away
A few weeks ago we spoke Of the
prevalence OF lace sleeves of the same
color tone as the material OF the
gown A now note has been sounded
IN sleeves IN the use of hrocade in
tones Of Oriental coloring, the pre-
dominating hue of which blends in
with the color tones OF the gown A
costume of tan oharmeuse has sleeves
and frll vest of hrncaded crepe in
shades Of tan and dull green. Another
gown of white silk crepe has sleeves
Of white foulaid with floral motifs %
Chinese blue and gold streWn over it.
Invariably these sleeves are long anu
follow closely the curves of the arms.
Crepe de chine viii continue in
favor uring the spring and summer.
lts dull finish has a tendency TO les
I sen the cross lines Of the figure, thus
aiding in the impression Of slender
ness For the gown Of the second H.
lustration this material In a dark blue
color was used The inserts and col
lar are Of creme In a light blue bro
cade The waist has the fashionable
dropped armhole, long sleeve and
much fullness Of the underarm The
front closing Is a unique and stylish
feature II opens at the waist %
present an undervest Of brocade. The
skirt Is smartly caught up in draped
folds at either side Of a narrow front
panel The inserts are Of light blue
brocaded crepe similar 10 that used
for the trimming Of the waist The
back has slight fulness at the waist.