Arizona republican., 1913-08-22
PADS AND FASHIONS


 NEW YORK. Aug. 19.-The dis plays of models forecasting the au- | tumn and winter styles give fairly good idea of the materials which will be in vogue during the coming season. Tn wool and silk-and-Wool mixtures they are velours de laine, velours, du- vetyn, imitation fur fabrics faille de Iaine plush and boucle effects. All these fabrics have a soft finish, eX- cepting faille de laine which is q ribbed material.
 There is every reason to believe that suit coats will very considerably III length during the coming season. The plain models will be shorter than the dressy ones. for the latter reach to the knees in the back. The broken waist line which was universal in the spring
 is being retained in fall models. many of which repeat the cutaWay effects
 so familiar during the past season. With these will be worn fancy waist
 coats in q contrasting material. Of
 course, it is quite possible that later
 in the season, the French designers
 may introduce a change by making
 short coats for semi dress occasions,
 while. at the present time, they favor
 three-quarter length coats for such oc-
 casions
 It will be welcome news to many that
 there is some prospect that the three
 tiered skit, which has been so success
 full in silk and in cotton materials, may
 be repeated in modified form in wool
 en fabrics. If that happens it is al-
 most inevitable that a special short
 coat, or coatee, will be devised to ac-
 company these skirts. on the subject
 of sleeves, too. there may be diversity
 of opinion between the French and the
 American makers. The latter have
 committed themselves to the kimono
 type in waists. while in the French
 models the fuIness under the arms is disappearing. The designers of this country seem to be of the same opinion when fl comes to coats, as they recom-
 mend long, cIose-fitting sleeves with out any fullness in the armhole.
 The American makers seem to be strongly in favor of drapery effects in skirts. They are following the tenden- cy, so conspicuous in Paris summer fashions. to lift the skirt in front. and remain loyal to the tunic effects. Hip sashes in Roman stripes, Scotch plaids and Cubist silks are still in favor and so are slashed skirts. Lace tunicS will probably be q feature of many after noon and evening gowns in the autumn
 Separate neckwear will probably con tinue to be a decidedly important feat ure of the coming seasons fashions The broad flat collar of lace. or em- broidered net or fine linen will con- tinue in vogue as well as the tulIe ruffle and the wired Medici collar. One of the novelties will be three tiered n N-tC al ch ie, model will probably be introduced later in other materials. since there are charming possibilities in it. Most of the new collars are not more than five inches deep in the back but broaden at the shoulders and in front. Attached guimpes will be little used and will be replaced by separate guimpes which are shown in a charming variety, both noWnecked and with a high collar.
 Chinese motifs promise to supple ment the crude Balkan designs of last spring, where colored embroidery is used for neckWear While the founda- ton of these collars during the sum mer has mainly been of cotton crepe, voile or linen, silks and silk crepes will be used in the winter, although cotton materials will be used to some extent
 One of the Paris fashion writers says that the silhouette of the fashionable woman in Paris is quite different from what it was six months ago. When 1. there was draping that was only sug- gested. Now the draping has disap- | peared and there are outstanding vo- lants similar to those employed by the ! ballet dancers. These ruffles are any ! thing from a few inches to three-quar- ! ters of a yard in width, and when the i narrow ones are used they often cover .