davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

ranging from an inch to two inches, very
often softens the top edge of these high
collars. When the collar is Of satin the
frill is OF net, embroidered batiste or a
fine lace, and when the collar Is fash
toned from one Of these sheer stuffs the
frill may be of the satin, though this is
never as becoming close against the face
as net or lace. clever inspiration
shows the frill Of a colored net. matching
the perky little bow which fastens the
jabot. The Bulgarian colors are often in
troduced in this way, and If one chooses
the color wisely the effect is charming.
The comfort derived from low collar
demands for ii an especial interest. This
comfort may be found in the Medici coll
lar. however. and yet the effect Of high
collar is given in the back. The new
Medici collars are made from satin. from
not. from shadow lace and from en-
broidered batiste They are not as eS-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
COMBINED TEXTURES.

The other gown iu the sketch not only
illustrates the vogue for combining ma
teriaI- Of different textures, but the blend
ing Of contrasting colors as well. The
skirt ifs Of printed blue chiffon cloth, a
blue reminiscent of the Chinese blue in its
deeper tones and the waist IS of terra
Gotta crepe meteor iu color closely re
eomnlng the faded scarlet Of Chinese
LACQUER If both of these colors are care
fully selected the combination is It delight
uI one. artistic ana unusual. and vet far
from sensational The drapery is caught
between tHc knees and the nip line, thus
bringing the furess an thi. new curve Of
the skirt When the drapcry is developed
600 material us sheer and clinginS as
cninn cloth tire effect is not unbecomine
even To- "a woman OF average stature
The baeeiues- and loosencss, which is 50
noticeable m the new models is cleverly
shown ON this waist by aragine the drap-
e.s Boo surplice fashion and allowing it Ia
blouse well over the high sash. The collar
is faced with blue chiffon cloth, and the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

revers outlining the vestee are also of the
chiffon cloth. vestee Of pleated batiste
or linen may be .dded. but the newer
effect is produced by soft. slightly gath
cred frills Of batiste These frils, by the
way. are not pleated as they have been
during the winter. but are lightly shrred
or gathered in the most nonchalant man
ner. The daring spirits wear, even on the
street, "a low shaped opening, which they
may or Gust as likely may not, hide
with furS
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
BOUDOIR SECRETS

word If explanation regarding the
toilet water may prove interesting to
many womel as comparatively few know
that the fragrance of the concentrees has
been reproduced in toilet water. One nat
urally would not expect the odor TO be as
strong and asting as from the concen-
tree. but il is more persistent and stronger
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
SOAP IN MINIATURE.

Women who have desired to provide
their guests with the same toilet article
that they use themselves have sought M
vain for miniature editions OF good soaps.
ANY number of small cakes Of the cheaper
soaps can be found. bu, the really nice
-oar- from across the waters have not
been put nap i'm these small guest-room
sizes until recently. Now II is possible
10 buy small cakes Tor % cents. Except
.n size. they are exactly like the larger
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
HANDKERCHIEF JABoTS.

A particularly pretty neck fixing, which
could easily be duplicated at home, IL
fashioned from fine Irish linen handker-
chief with colored border. There Is
deep Irish lace jabot and over this
square jabot, made from the handker-
chief. the border supplying the requisite
color note The high stock is of the lin
en-. with turnover edge of the handker-
chief border, and jabots OF net with hand
embroidery in the Bulgarian colorings
afford an excellent opportunity for skilful
needlework The outline of black should
not be forgotten for this is the distinc-
tive feature Of the Bulgarian embroidery,
the design being a conventional one which
any country might claim.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
A RATIONAL TUNIC-FLoUNcEs

10 is possible. however. to wear tunic
SHAPED ike the one i'm the sketch and not
comfort the body, though the longer,
softer drapcrics of the other gown VIII
prove more generally becoming. The
tuuics will be very popular for borderod
materials. The border appears as trim
ming on the tunic and at the bottom OF
the skirt For the women who object to
the flare of the new tunic there are mar
row founccd skirts. with one. two or
tbree aounces. as may be desired. but all
of them kept so narrow and 'clingng that
they do not add to the appearance of
uluess in the skirts.
The jacket may be developed. as in the
model I'm a broche crepe of the same
sandy hue. or IL may be fashioned from a
MORE iu vivid red or Oriental olue
color 1t reaches slightly below the waist
line iu tine front, spreading IN cutaway
fashion. and in the back takes on the
appearance OF "a mans coat tails. extend
iu- well over the hips. The back Of the
new coat il invariably longer tndn the
front even some notifications oi the
Russian blouse showing this effect. The
belt appears only in the front. taking
upou itself the function of fastening the
coat n is fashioned from black velvet
adding certain distinction which cos
tune of such "a light color demands. and
matches the narrow cuffs The knowing
woman MiU hang from her belt watch
ron of black MORE ribbon. just as the glil
n tine drawing shows. IT may be- "a bit
suggestive of scalp hanging from tn"
belt of am Indian. but il is one Of the
latest Innovations, and il has practical
ady5utacts to recommend IT,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
s. RECORD Of FASHIONS LATEST WHINB

IRENE as the earlier models, and are
therefore, more generally becoming. They
are wired at the back and at the Sides
but the wire is almost invisible ano
launders perfectly. A pretty Medici col"
lar of embroidered linen is completed by
a fiat jabot of the shadow lace. which IS
attached to the collar by a bow OF black
taffeta. Sometimes a neckband of black
taffeta, or MORE, will finish the collar.
ending in a fiat, pump bow in the front
The jabots spreading in butterfly fashion
are also used with the Medici collars. A
Medici collar In black satin is softened
by a pleated frill of shadow lace and
completed by a butterfly jabot OF the
shadow lace which falls in plastron
fashion over the shoulders. Still another
style shows a Medici collar of coiored
taffeta with yokelike jabot of shadow
lace combined with net The tiny little
vestee. with it's buttons of taffeta match
ing the collar, is edged with the shadow
lace.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

/ hands. The glycerine in the preparation
makes it particularly pleasing to the irri-
| tated skin. As a very little OF the prepa-
ration is used AT one time. even small
/ bottle will outlast cake Of soap, and the
! prices Of 90 cents. 81 and 81 20 are not eX-
/ Densive.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

than tuat from the majority Of perfumes
compounded with alcohol. \ bottle con-
tanning twice the amount Of the small
bottles Of the couccntrec can be pur-
chased for g.. and many women will find
il quite rs satisfactory.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

frill falling over the hand, or ii may reach
only to the three-quarter length The lat
ter is perhaps the more desirable on
dressy coats as IT is a little more ex-
elusive, long kid gloves being more ex-
pensive than the short ones.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
THE WIDE SASH.

The most novel feature of the entire
gown, however. is the wide sash. Any
one who is familiar with the native Jap
anese costume will recognize at once the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
eEvERS AND COLLAR.

The connecting link between the sklrt
and the Jacket is given by the revers ana
collar Of the plain material. In jackets
fashioned with a waistcoat the latter Is
made from the plain material OF the skirt
The Eastern influence is noticeaoie again
I'm the large armhole, into which the sleeve
is set as plainly AS in mans coat The
sleeve may be full length, with the lace
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

the back with huge bow. just as the
little brown maiden ties the sash of her
kimono; others are closed at the side by
rosettes. loops. twists. fiat turnover
effect Of one end. or even loose knot
SIN others are attached by the ends TO
gor,e mart Of the skirt. generally in the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

cake that sells Tor 81. delicious scent
is left on the hands or face after using
this soap, and there is nothing IN It's
makeup TO injure the most delicate OF
compilations II is certainly better to pay
a few more cents for a cake of soap to
be used by your guest than to nave the
guest complain to mutual friends that
your cheap soap ruined her SKIN.
A LIQUID SOAP.
good soap for the trying, cola
weather is one that cleanses and acts
with the soothing qualities of lotion. 1t
comes In liquid form, and few drops are
poured into the palm Of the hand The
hands ARE washed In lukewarm water,
which forms "A rich lather with the liquid,
Then cooler water is used to rinse the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
NArURALNEss OF cARELEssNEss

This lowering of the fulness TO point
midway between the hips and the knees
has brought about new silhouette which
is far from the ideal of the American
woman. 10 is described as natural, but IL
is the naturalucss of the careless woman.
who let's her figure relax and tail into
slothful lines. producing bOwlike curves.
The Eastern idea of lifting the drapery
I'm front further accentuates the howlike
curve below the waistline. When the
chin is stuck forward and there is a de-
cidcd crook to the back of the neck, the
fashionable silhouette is complete. The
effect is certainly not graceful or pleas
ing. except. perhaps, on a certain type OF
woman. and the American girl or woman
who has striveu stronuously Cor good
figure will do well to assert her individ-
uaIitv and refuse to emulate such 'natu-
raucss." surely. after years Of striving
TO achieve the nat, straight back, which
makes the English woman 80 good 10
look at. after the reminding cuts of
shoulder braces and numerous exercises
with the broom handle. the sensible
woman is not going 10 allow herself to
lose an erect carriage i'm order 10 follow
some silly Whim of fashion. The iniiu-
cnce of the East may be strong this year
but why should il be allowed TO mar or
interfere with the most advanced stand
ards of beauty?
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
EARLY SPRING WARDROBE
The Carnival at Nice and the Riviera Are Setting the
Fashions for the Easter Dress Parade decidedly
Contrasting Coors and Materials Worn

erays or tdupcs. even puppies. it would be
quite subdued enough for church during
the Lenten season, while L would be
equally effective i'm more brilliant color
ings for the Easter costume The orig
inal model was carried out in the new
sand tone The skirt was of the plain,
Loavy, lustreless crepe, and was fashioned
with the new tunic. This tunic Is, of
course. intended for the woman who has
mo" hips. as are all the styles these days.
IL has a jaunty little flare. all of its own.
which brings the fulness between the
knees and the hips. according TO fashion
late decree. There is slight amount OF
fulness at the waistlne, which is taken
care of by pleats or gathers in more or
less irregular manner, il must be adj
mitted This tucksd-up-w
go. careless method of draping the gowns
this spring is going to be the despair Of
the home drcssmakor, unless she is the
artistic already referred to, for while il
gives the appearance of haste and care
l,sSuess it requires the hand of the mas
ter. and has all the deception of sweet
simplicity which can only be obtained at
..r ont a-.rauca
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
NECKWEAR TO
MAKE IN LENT

When two or three are gathered around
the tea table during the Lenten season 1t
is lust the best time for fashioning pretty
neckwear. II f. the daintiest and most
interesting kind of needlework. and few
things please women more than to twist
lace. a bit OF velvet and iilmy chiffon into
a becoming novelty with which to dress
up the neck. The idea is TO have this
neckwear becoming-and, OF course this
should be the dominant thought There
are so many styles which are considered
equally modish that ii is a comparatively
easy matter to choose becoming style.
The frilly jabots have not by any means
been supplanted by the fiat ones. though
the latter are, perhaps. a little newer.
There is something 50 charming I'm a
fluffy friHy jabot that IT is not likely TO
lose caste with women who desire soft
neck fixing next 20 the face
HIGH COLLARS UNPOPULAR.
The high collars are struggling for the
place which is now occupied by the low
collars. and as the warm days are com
inc they are not likely To succeed. When
high collar or stock Is chosen. however.
it Is made very high. narrow friiI,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09
ADVANCE STYLEs-AT NICE.

At present. the buyers are gathered in
Paris awaiting the spring openins;
nothing definite is known. Their long
experience has taught them to be good
guessers fin regard To- the coming STYLES,
but this same experience makes them
hesitate to- hazard a guess. The models
they are inspecting at the present time
are those fashioned for the advance
guard al the Riviera, at the Nice Carui-
val for example They are tentative de-
signs. and more or less developments of
the late winter fashions. rather than new
IDEAS These are the costumes which ere
being sent to this country at the present
Hme and il viii be almost the middle of
March. practically only a few DAYS before
Easter before the genuine ne" spring
models can reach the clothes markets OF
this country. ~ women. therefore are TO
b. fear. for Easter with new gowns and
hats. trev must gather their Inspirations
from Pho models now being exploited al
the Riviera.
Tt.re arc certain features that one can
safely predict win Poe developed further
st fr. openings. One of these is the
continuation OF two on more fabrics Of
CONTRASTING texture and color for a suit
or Irrss. The now materials are being
disp,ar.I with this ido3 which is another
guarantee NJ its adoption. 10 is not
new fGra for owen last spring the foreign
dosiguls attempted Goo Introduce IT, but
somehow n did not catch on at that time.
Tf.r. -... really three ideas which have
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09

These two costumes OF materials and color
n
chiffon and Gotta meteor.
of a the styles
de chine
trimmed with the PLAN
mater
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-02-09


.-e principal objection TO readE-made
,...tqs IS their lack of Individuality TINS
... .e tac case even though one pur-
..... very expensive French models.
...... are nngWerabIe stories of women
..r fabulous prices for costumes
.., they were assured We're exclusive
n. ,outuIiers across the sea, and
..rg on their return. a few weeks
Identical costumes selling for bar
,rices I'm the department shops. Nor
~ me hirh-rrced dressmakers in this
.,rrtrr hesitate Co COPY to the most mi
.o.e detail Tine same gown for two Gus
..re,.. one can elrcmyeDt this difficulty
~. adding To- tra ready 20 wear costume
..rtaip individual touches a sash of a
.r1Iiar, hue. lacey neck dNings, sleeve
Ems o1l buttons-in fact, a dozen or
,.,re telling additions which viii fairly
.......-,, nm. sait or gown.
.t. .1,a.rer ~frlN-u.nte costumes
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-07-08
COAST CAUTIONS ALIENS
Fears Panama Canal Will Bring
Too Many Immigrants.

Seattle, July THE condition or I'M
migrants from Europe already on the
Pacific Coast and the appropriateness OF
the coast states TO care for the flood or
other immigrants which Is expected to
come after the Panama Canal rs COM
pleted we're discussed by the National
Conference OF Charities and CORRECTIONS
at it's general session tonight
Charles w. Blanpied secretary OF the
Pacific Coast Immigration Congress. read
a paper on Special Survey OF Coast Con-
dItions. Relative to immigration He
said the Pacific Coast states were not
prepared to care for the immigrants who
will come from Europe and from the
Eastern states upon completion of the
Panama Canal. lie pointed out that the
present demand for labor on the coast
was not large. and efforts should be made
TO place the newcomers on land
Three sectional meetings OF the confer
ence were held to-day DR.. W. III. Slim
gerlanG. OF the Russell Sage Foundation,
New York. addressed one meeting on
"The Need Of Child Welfare Work In
Rural Communities" Mrs John NJ,
Glenn, of New York. spoke In the third
meeting on Case Work. Discipline and
Ideals"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-07-08
AMERICAN AGRICULTURAL
COMMISSION IN LONDON
Welcomed by Ambassador Page
and Consul General Griffiths-
An Elaborate Programme.

London. July The American Commits
sion On Agricultural Organization. Cor
poratlon and Rural Credits arrived here
to-day one day ahead Of its schedule. The
commission is being treated as an official
mission from the United States by the
British government and was met by Wal
ter Runciman, Secretary OF the Board OF
Agriculture. as the official representative
as we'll as by Sir Sydney olivier. former
Governor Ct Jamaica, a number of ON
Gals OF the Board OF Agriculture and the
members of the reception committee
formed by various agricultural societies.
Ambassador Walter Hines Page and
Consul General John L. Griffiths were
also present att the railway station TO well
come their countrymcn.
The programme for the soJourn OF the
commission in England Is in the hands OF
the Department OF Agriculture, which is
aided by various organizations I'm sym
pathy with the work the delegates are
pursuing, and which have Wed with one
another in arranging an itinerary where
by the delegates will be able to make the
best possible use Of the time allotted to
them.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-07-08
f8,5O0 FOR LADY SCOTT |
Fund Apportioned to Heirs Of
South Pole Heroes.

London. July THE committee of the
Mansion House Scott fund. which now
amounts to e75,O0o C375.ccM. has decided
TO appropriate GSi.0oO for the relief of the
families Of those who lost their lives in
the polar expedition.
Lady Scott will receive $500 her son
Peter $500, Captain SCOTS mother and
two sisters $1,000. Mrs Wilson, the widow
of DR.. Edward 4. Wilson, $500, Mrs.
Bowers widow Of Lieutenant II. Il. Bow
crs. and her two daughters. Ei5oo: Mrs
Evans widow of Petty Officer Evans.
and her three children, Gl2i0. Several
minor sums will also be awarded TO 9TH
ers connected with the expedition
out of the fund additional sums will be
allotted as follows: For the publication
Of the scientific results of the expedition
c17.50O; future polar research, GioOp; to
make good a deficiency I'm the cost OF the
expedition. c5.loo0: for a memorial to the
dead. Els,0c0
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-07-08

publication of special war editions has
been stopped
Whatever the policy Of the European
powers may be. little is now heard OF
attempts to stop the war. The am
bassadorial conference met in London
gain to-day. but apparently did little
else than discuss the boundaries of
Albania. Meanwhile, Rumania and
Turkey give signs that they will not
long be idle spectators, and the Balkan
states continue the struggle which VIII
paralyze them for years to come.
A dispatch from Salonica reports
that the Greeks have occupied Demir-
hissr and Strumitza, and, ACCORDING
TO the most probable information, the
bulgarian General Ivanoff has beal
slowly retiring before the superior
Greek forces northward since his army
was weakened by the departure OF his
right wing to Krivolak
An interesting detailed report from
Greek official sources Of last weeks
operations describes how the Bull
garians Dy incessant labor had trans
formed KiIksh into another Plevna,
with surprising extent of trenches
guns and defences, and asserts that the
Greeks by their successful advance
prevented the execution OF plan for
a Bulgarian attack on Salonica.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-07-08
SEA LONELY MANS GRAVE
Passenger Whose Body None
Claimed Buried in Ocean.

Through the inability Of the Atlantic
Transport Line 10 find his relatives in
this country. the body Of Clements b.
Finley. n mining engineer. OF Chatta-
nooga. Tenn. was buried at sea on Sun
day from the steamship Minneapolis.
which arrived here Yesterday from Lon
don
Mr. Finley. who was we'll to do. was
siyty-nine years old. He went abroad
three months ago on the White Star
liner Olympic I'm search OF health, but got
no relief. lie was not seriously in when
he boarded the Minneapolis on June %,
but when four days at sea he died OF
.urcmia. His body was Immediately en-
balned by Dr. G. Bryan paunt and a
wireless message was sent to this city 10
ascertain II there we're any relatives in
this country who would take the body on
arrival.
Captain Hasker waited until Sunday
afternoon for a reply. and on receiving
no answer decided TO bury the body
al sea.
Al p. m. the Minneapolis was brought
n a stop and every passenger on board
assembled on deck 10 attend the funeral
service. which was read by Captain
Hasker.
Several passengers on the Minneapolis
who had met Mr.. Finley In London and
on the eastward trip OF the Olympic. said
he told them he had five children, all Of
whom were married.
His baggage will be held by the line
until relatives come to claim H.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-07-08
CHORUS GIRLS APPEAL
TO AMERICAN CONSULATE
Say Decourville Refuses to Pay
Return Passage to New York,
as Contracts Call For.
IN CahIe 10 M TrIbune. |

London, July 1.-Eleven American
chorus girls well known on Broadway
have appealed TO the American Consul
ate because, according to the story OF
the girls. Alfred Decourville, manager
of the London Hippodrome, where the
American show Hello Rag Time has
been huge success all winter has re-
fused to pay their return passage to
New York.
The olympic brought sixteen girls
about four weeks ago, ard five have
left the company for various reasons
The number still remaining are at
work regularly, but, indignant over
their treatment, consulted the con-
suate. which, it is understood. has
been advised by a barrister that the
girls contracts call for a return pas
sage and that Mr.. Decourville is GER
tainly forced 10 pay it should the case
come TO the courts. One Of the girls
said tonight
"Our contracts called for six weeks
With an option for another six weeks
at $50 a week. The contracts were Sc
cured by Jack Mason in New York.
But lately We were told we might be
let go at the end Of the first six weeks.
and Mr.. Decourville told us We should
DC able 10 save enough money for our
return passage. but really he meant
us To get out and earn money the best
way we knew how. Let me tell you,
not all the girls in this crowd are
crooked. by any means, so YOU know
how rotten that was.
I'VE have been told, however, that
We must pay our return passage, as our
contracts state that in black and white.
When We sailed We knew nothing
about two performances day, for we
understood that there would be some
thing like an hours turn Of vaudeville
daily"
Among the girls who came over are
Ray Morris Anna Ford. Esther May.
Marie Leonard. Violet Lawson, Pearl
Evans, Connie Magnet. Jeanne Dare,
sue Young. Edith Taylor, Dorothy
Godfrey and other chorus girls we'll
known in musical shows on Broadway.
II is said there is bad feeling at the
Hippodrome by English chorus girls.
who got only so a week. as against
Americans, who receive double that
sum. and the tremendous success. The
girls say they tried 10 see Mr.. Decour-
Vile to-day, but that he refused to see
them,