davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

a bare look. One dancing gown for a
December debutante has a satin
bodice-the skirt being also Of the
satin with Ainaret tunic of swans
down-edged chiffon-and instead of
ordinary armholes the bodice has a
tab-like cut at the shoulder the small
tab, edged with rhinestone trimming
falling over the arm Tor TWO inches.
Another debutante gown of shell pink
lansdowne has frankly no sleeve at all,
front and back of the bodice, edged
with pearls, meeting on the shoulder
in sharp point, under clasp of
pearls. With these very short sleeves
are worn long gloves of soft silk, en-
broidered on the wrists in delicate
self-tone designs. Gloves are removed
during the informal dances of the mo-
ment, but at the opera and theater
they are usually retained.
Ballet Slippers For Dancing.
Another caprice of the season is the
laced--ballet slipper. Some of these
slippers have very high French heels
and are called cothurns-a very old
fashioned name, for the great grand
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

ly poised, set off this one-tone costume
admirably, and patent leather boots
with taupe kid buttoned tops COM
Pearls in Barbaric Effects.
The immense vogue for Persian eff
fects has renewed the favor for pearls
though 1t must be confessed not half
the pearl effects one sees, even in high
places. are achieved with genuine
pearls; pearl beads when well made
initiating the color and texture of real
pearls very creditably. Pearls are
used everywhere they swing from the
hair and from the waist; they are used
for fillets and for girdles and a favor
ite effect is to confine softly draped
skirt under a closely clinging tunic
of pearl strands, initiating the effect
OF the Persian dancers pearl garland.
Girdles for evening gowns show lat
tice work of pearls six or eight inches
wide and clasped in front with an
enormous. pearl-studded cabuchon.
Two head-dresses pictured on today's
page show barbaric examples of the
use of pearls. The pearl headdress
that Is distinctly imposing for all its
outrageous unconventionality shows a
fillet of five pearl strings attached to
cap of white tulle. There is also a
visor made of the pearl beads and
strings of the beads fall in deep loops
over the ears. But the amazing fea-
ture of the headdress is the sunburst
arrangement of silver wires, which
support semi-circle of pearls in half
halo effect around the head. Another
pearl-studded headdress is the Russian
cap of draped silk and gold embroid-
cry. MatriX turquoises and cabuchons
Of jade are. mixed with the pearls in
this headdress. In one instance-that
of the Russian effect-an ecclesiastic
headdress accompanies a peasant eff
feet in costume; in the other a bar
barrie heather headdress is worn with
stately ecclesiastic cloak. But what
cares Fashion?
The ecclesiastic wrap Is made of
Eminence purple velvet-the true
papal color, which is effectively set off
by sleeves of spotless ermine; two long
stoles of the white fur hanging over
the front of the wrap below the knees.
This wrap has a most peculiar drap-
ery the velvet being allowed to fall
in loose folds at the back as far as
the hip and then brought around to
swathe the limbs and define the sill
houette of the figure. Cap and wrap
are of the extreme and sensational
type and would cause remark in any
gathering even where conservatism in
dress was not the rule.
The imposing Russian headdress,
strangely enough Is rather coquettish
with a dancing frock suggested in de-
sign by a gypsy peasant costume. A
stomacher of blue brocade is laced
across simple bodice of white crepe
de chine over flesh tinted chiffon, vari-
colored eabuchons sewed to the bodice
giving a semi barbaric Romany ef-
feet. The gold, jade, pearl and tur-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

wrist; and often pleated frills or flare
cuffs cover the hand to the fingertips.
OF course such sleeves are possible on
formal costumes. The woman who has
to run into the kitchen to look at a
baking cake; or she who must wash
the dishes after an evening meal has
no use for sleeves tight at the wrist
and extending over the hand; but
many of the pretty, lacy blouses for
matinee and tea wear with tailored
suits are made in this way.
In direct contrast to the exagger-
ated sleeves used with day frocks are
the abbreviated sleeves on evening
gowns. All such sleeves are flowing
and graceful. forming part of drap-
cry that falls over bodice and shoul-
der, and sometimes the diaphanous
sleeve floats downward to the knee in
what is styled the 'angel'' effect Cap
sleeves; or short, close-ftting sleeves
of the bodice material, are seen only
on informal dining-a -at-home frocks or
on dancing frocks for debutantes: and
more often the dancing frock has no
sleeves at all, filmy bit of tulle drap-
cry at the shoulder being all that saves
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

edge of the v neck and elbow sleeve;
the other is trimmed with swansdown
around sleeve and hem. Very agree
able, one imagines. when ones feet
are chilly on a cold mid-winter night,
to cuddle them up into the folds of
a swansdown edged nighael
Fur-trimmed pettiooats for dancing
wear are particularly pretty. Very
little fur is used-that Is. the fur
bands are of the narrowest width
scarcely more than furry fringe, and
sometimes there are two fiounces of
lace, each edged with fur and fes-
TONED with the tiny expensive chif-
fon roses. A very smart petticoat Of
this sort is of cherry red liberty satin
with two accordion pleated feunces-
scant. as by some machination of the
manufacturer, accordion pleating is
now made scant-and each of the
fiounees has fringe OF black fox. A
festoon OF jet and crystal beads falls
over the upper fiounce, Its weight
holding the petticoat in limp and mar
row lines. Another petticoat designed
for wear with black tulle dancing
frock, Is of white satin overlaid with
two fiounees of black chantilly each
edged with fringe of black fox. AT
one knee is a chou of grass green rib
bon with shower ends tumbling over
the chantilly flounce.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

quoise headdress is attached to a
jaunty gypsy cap of scarlet silk over
laid by a draping of Romany blue.
Sleeves Have Score of Expressions!
Fashion has concentrated her fancy
for eccentricity this year upon sleeves.
Never were so many kinds of sleeves
in single season-the poor home
dressmaker, seeking to be in the fash
ion is fairly distracted by the multi
tude of sleeve styles she beholds in
the style-books. Almost any sort of
sleeve except one set conventionally in
a regulation armhole, will pass mus
ter. Smartest. perhaps, are the
sleeves that battle the beholder as to
the manner Of their attachment to the
bodice. Some sleeves appear to start
at the neck, being set into the bodice
in wedged shape, semi-raglan effect;
others have their starting point half
way down the upper arm; and still
others, after the kimono type, do not
start at all but are frankly part of the
bodice ITSELF The ultra fashionable
sleeve, perhaps, is the one which bells
out at the elbow, tapering from there
into a close-fitting bracelet cuff at the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14
A NURSERY FOR
THE PET DOG

N HERE are special doctors who
n prescribe only for pedigreed can
~ ines-no other dogs can afford
the services of these specialists; there
are special outfits for dogs, including
teweled collars. monogrammed whips
and winter blanket coats trimmed
with costly furs. There are even au-
tomobile goggles to protect doggie's
eyes from cutting breezes. But who
has ever heard before of luxuriously
appointed nursery designed at great
expense solely for the pleasure of
lucky little dog? This delightful nurs-
ery-which many child less favored
by fortune might envy--is flooded
with sunshine and heated by steam
radiators. In the center of the floor
is sunken pool or pit which all
around goes an inclined plane This
pool is six feet square and. deep
enough for his dogship to swim in.
The water is warmed so that when he
dashes in after a ball he is in no
danger of catching cold. OF course,
there are plenty of toys such as pup
pies love, in the nursery, and there
Is a bathroom attached where an at
tendant gives this expensive pet his
daily bath.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14
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vided with the latest implements OF
warfare recall the Balkan struggle
just passed. For the small girls de-
lectation there are, besides the dolls
which deserve a special chapter all to
themselves, the very latest conven-
iences for miniature housekeeping,
from vacuum cleaners to awninged We
randas abloom with flowers and fur
nished with mating rugs and wicker
chairs.
Small teasets for modern doll tea
parties are no such primitive affairs
as used to delight the childhood of
All older generation, with a paltry
dozen cups, saucers, plates, teapot and
cream jug fitted into holes in card
board; but include everything for a
ten-course dinner, from bouillon cups
to finger bowls, with compotes, all
mond dishes, raw oyster plates, fish
plates, gravy platters and all such epi-
curean embellishments. There are also
sets of housewifely table linen, with
tablecloths and napkins to match,
lunch cloths, tea-tray cloths, doilies
and centerpieces, and naturally, the
table itself is not forgotten, extension
tables in the fashionable mission style
being accompanied by leather-seat
chairs of the most approved mode.
Among the. new mechanical toys is
commodious motor bus which will
hold eight dolls quite comfortably,
with room for more on the roof. This
luxurious vehicle has real window
panes and noiseless rubber tired
wheels. Being wound up, it threads
its way across room as naturally as
a Fifth avenue bus threads a way
among vehicles and pedestrians, and
of course a resounding honk-honk
horn Is part of the equipment.
For the dolls comfort there IL =
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

complete bathroom equipped in imita-
ton white tiling and enamel, with a
blue rug and a spacious bathtub equip
ped with faucets and shower, through
which, by means of mechanical con-
trivance water may be splashed at
will. Even more luxurious is a SWIM
ming pool, with cozy dressing rooms
and ten-fnch deep tank, calculated
to drown the biggest aquatic doll un-
less one is very, very careful. Swim
ming dolls of larger size, clad in fetch
ing knitted Jersey swimming suits, will
swim the length of % real bathtub and
back when wound up; and by the aid
of one of these delightful bathing COM
panfons the morning or evening bath
becomes joy rather than a bugbear
--even when a little person breads
the water.
Two mechanical contrivances sure to
bring ecstacy to the heart of small
boyhood are pictured in the Coney
Island mechanical toys. One of these
playthings is a merry ygo-round in
which gaily caparisoned animals ca
wort around a lively music box; the
other is loop-the-loop Ferris wheel,
in which sisters dolls may have the
perilous delight Of riding. Other de-
lights of Coney Island, including bark
ers. popcorn stands. scenic railways.
and so on, are also to be found in
Toyland.
Great changes have been wrought
in Doll-Land with the coming of the
character dolls whose natural, even
If not always lovely faces lend life
and interest far beyond that of the
rows of placidly snlirking doll faces
of the old-style type. The character
baby dolls are the most life-like. cud-
dly little dears and some of the little
faces are wrinkled up exactly like
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

mamma OF the present belle wore a
cothurn in her girlhood days--away
back in 1897 or 1870. The true ballet
slipper, however, is hee1less and tango
enthusiasts insist that this dance may
be accomplished more gracefully in
heelless footwear. There is a certain
quaintness about these slippers but
they are not nearly as coquettish as
the French heeled affair, and for
street wear heels grow higher and
higher; the conventional street boot
for walking use having tall, curved
heel and of course buttoned top.
Fur an Obscession, Not a Caprice.
Fur is veritably an obscession of
Fashion this year. Even nightgowns
are garnished with fur. Two Paris
nightgowns just arrived to complete a
December trousseau are of almost
transparently fine batiste. made by
hand and delicately hand embroidered.
One has tiny bands of ermine at the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14
SLIPPER GIFTS FOR A BRIDES
MAID LUNCHEON.

:" 7 the luncheon given by the bride.
~ to-be in honor of her brides
maids, at which she is tradition
ally supposed to take leave of her girl
hood chums because of the new dig
nifty of her married estate, dainty
souvenir or gift, as expensive as the
bride can afford is Usually presented
to each maid. The bridesmaids who
attended the bride at a large wedding
this month, conferred together and in
troduced a pretty variation-or rather
addition to this custom. Each young
guest agreed to bring a slipper gift
and the parting shower of slipper gifts
was to take the place of any slipper
demonstration at the going away of
the bride, each maid promising faith
fully not to take part in any plan for
throwing old shoes, rice or confetti at
that time. The slipper gifts were pre-
sented to the bride before luncheon
and included a brocaded silk slipper
bag for parties, pearl handled shoe
horn for the party bag, a pair of cut
steel slipper buckles, a pincushion
shaped like slipper, some silk bou-
doir mules and pair of ribbon trim
med knitted bedroom slippers.
HAT PINS ARE INcONsPICUoUs.
"a OTHING so quickly marks a
IL woman as unversed in the canons
4 of good form, as ostentatiously
glittering hatpins. Well dressed women
wear hairpins that are inconspicuous in
the extreme, some of the costliest hats
being pinned on with the ordinary,
ball-headed pins which may be picked
up in the shops for five cents. These
come in polished black, in white and
in dull black for mourning hats.
Pearl-headed pins, five inches long,
come in pairs, and there are also pairs
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

NNACH season has its freaks in the
e. sartorial line, for there are
V women who simply will not
3 abide by the conservative eff
fects which are bound to become com
monplace when worn by thousands
upon thousands. all endeavoring to
dress more or less like established
ideals; but insist upon an arresting in
dividuality only to be achieved by
some radical departure from the es-
tablished order of things.
Most of the frealish effects which
are important enough to be heard of
all around the world are evolved by
French couturiers as experiments and
exploited first by actresses or profess
sional beauties seeking notoriety. Oc-
casonally freakish style, tentatively
put out by a dressmaker and shown
on mannequin at one of the great
French races. is seized upon by fem
ininity because of its direct appeal to
feminine fancy, and becomes the
fashion almost overnight. The woman
to whom dress is a religion is ever on
the lookout for something new to ex-
plot her own individuality and type,
and the astute couturier, perfectly
NoohiNe'hs VA tAAiSs 40 iOitf0h PaitaitS
out bats to angle for this voracious
feminine desire.
Because One Actress Dotes on Green,
Furs Are Dyed.
celebrated French actress one day
deplored the misfortune that fur so
beautiful as moleskin was to be had
only in the dirty gray mole shade
and could not be achieved in her own
particular color - green. Forthwith
her special couturier put wits to work,
made experiments; and finally pro-
duced moleskin, it's lovely texture un-
impaired, but its color changed to a
wonderful mottled, gray-green. A
coat. hat and muff of the soft green
pelt were worn by the famous actress
one Sunday at Auteuil, and prestol
dyed fur was the demand of every
woman in Paris the next week.
One of the most bizarre examples
Of fur sailing under false colors is the
dyed fox which emulates the tender
tint Of the canary. This brilliant yell
low pelt is used now even on chill
dren's garments and is hugely popu-
lar as a trimming for evening gowns
of yellowish cast. Orange fox. blue
fox and amethyst fox are other ex-
amples of dyed fur which are fash
ionable this season. Taupe fox has
been used for some time to trim cos
tunes of taupe coloring. One such
frock was noted in Sherry's the other
afternoon. over a skirt of taupe lans-
downe swung a Minaret tunic Of taupe
chiffon edged with taupe fox. The
blouse of taupe chiffon was partly COW
cred by a little Zeuave jacket of en-
broidered taupe satin, also edged with
the dyed fox. and the jacket opened
over crossed vest of shadow lace
A muff of taupe fox and a very smart,
fxry small hat of black velvet. rakish-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

~ preaching their annual mad and
merry climax in Toyland. Thou
~ sands of relocated, white
bearded Santas are busy as bees taking
down the names and cordially shaking
the hands of timidly ecstatic little peo-
pie; aisles are thronged with parents
and children, mechanical toys are 60
ing pell nell, music boxes add their
mite to the din through which one
catches the meows of furry cats, the
barks of lovable papier mache doggies,
the moos of life-like cows, the "papas"
and ''mammas'' of appealing dolls, the
clickety-clicS of luxurious Pullman
cars and freight trains over table-long
railroad systems, the pop of air guns.
the experimental trying out of drums,
the blasts of countless tin trumpets-
parental eyes are turned another way.
and above all the other racket, the
laughter and exclamations of HAPPY
children. Oh, Toyland is the place
to feel young at Christmas time. to
cast dull care aside, and to revel with
the little people in the marvellous
Land of Make-Believe!
Modern toys are exceedingly up-to-
date affairs. One is impressed, stroll
ing down the aisles of the large toy
departments or rather, elbowing,
showing and pushing down the aisles
at this season-with the manner in
which toys keep abreast of the times.
All the latest scientific inventions are
reproduced more or less truthfully in
miniature for the benefit-of up-to-the-
minute children. Aeroplanes, Giplanes
dirigibles, hydroplanes and hydro
aeroplanes are ready for the delight
of the small boy. Miniature soldiers
clad In appropriate costumes and pro-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14
HAT PINS ARE INcoNspICUoUs.

real baby's face when 1t cries. Smil-
Ing dollies, however, appeal to little
mothers most and pretty-faced dolls
are always more In demand than dolls
of less sunny disposition. Two CO.
lonial character dolls are pictured.
The little man wears pale blue satin
coat, silver braided, over a buff waist
coat and white satin breeches. His
shirt frills are Of lace and under his
smart cooked hat show his powdered
curls tied back with a black queue
ribbon. The Colonial dame wears a
looped up sacque OF rose brocade over
a petticoat and farthingale of silk and
lace. The sacque is laced with black
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14

velvet across stomacher of shirred
net. Her pompadour hair also pow
dered, is decorated with fuchsia bios
SONS.
This season Kewpies occupy a high
place of favor in Doll-Land. These
enhancing little bisque figures with
their wee, dimpled baby faces and
mischievous eyes are dressed in ali
sorts of fascinating ways = some as
baby Kewpies; others as athletic Kew
pies in knitted sweater suits: still 9TH
ers as bride and groom Kewpies with
appropriate equipment of satin. tulle
and orange e-blossoms. and swallow
tailed coat and white gloves.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14
Notes and Novelties

of pins with violet colored knobs and
with amber knobs. Moss agate and
carnelian knobs mounted in plated
gold are also seen on distinguished
hats. All hatpins are rather short
these days and nothing gives a woman
a commonplace look like long spear
points protruding from her hat crown
Ito say nothing of the danger to eyes
and faces around her.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-12-14
Persian Modes Increase
Vogue Of Pearls - The
Thick-Neck Collar Fur
Trimmed Petticoats :
Queer Mixture Of Hea-
then and Ecclesiastic
Effects = Dyed Furs.

CACH season has its freaks in the
e. sartorial line, for there are
" women who simply will not
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1913-04-14
Venerable POntiff SufferSAn-
other Relapse.
CONDITION is VERY GRAVE
Patients Weakened State Gives Rise
to Fear That He May Not Overcome
the New Attack-Iooks Hageard
and Has Difficulty in Breathing.

Rome, April 14.-The pope has suf-
fered another relapse, tracheal bron-
chitis having developed. The hope is
entertained by the physicians that the
bronchitis is due TO uramanic acids
settling in the tracheal instead of the
infectious Inflammation.
The condition of the pope is re
garded as grave, especially so on ac.
count of his weak state. This has
caused the fear to arise that he will
be unable to overcome the new attack
His temperature is 1O3.
The sisters of the pope were deeply
impressed by the relapse. They re
sumed their nursing OF the patient.
Cardinal Merry del Val. the papal
secretary of state, declared that the
appearance of the pope was unsatis.
factory. He thought he looked more
haggard and weaker, while the diff
Guilty in his breathing had augmented
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1913-04-14
FRIENDLY TO MERIT SYSTEM
Bryan Fsvors Civil Service In Con
sular Positions.

Washington, April 14.-.Secretary of
State Bryan is friendly to the merit
system of appointment, promotion and
tenure in the consular service.
In public utterances made while he
was still a private citizen, but based
upon personal contact with the Ameri-
can consular officers in various parts
of the world, Mr.. Bryan has not hesi-
tated to express his admiration of the
service as a whole and Of the person
mel
Now he has announced he was in
ciiriei to have regard for civil service
principles so far as the consular serv-
ice was concerned and that consuls
who had entered the service In accord
ance with these principles were un-
likely to be disturbed.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1913-04-14
BREAK IN LEvEE
D|vERTS FLOOD
Conditions Improve From
Memphis NortIlward.
CREVASSE FURTHER SOUTH

Overflow Covers Large Stretch OF
Country, including a Number OF
Small Towns-Water Rising at
vicksburg and Nearby Points.
Memphis. Tenn, April 14.-Relief
for residents and levee workers on
the eastern side OF the Mississippi
river was caused by a crevasse in an
old stretch of dikes forty miles from
the mouth of the Arkansas river. The
overflow will cover a stretch of coun-
try as far south as Lake village and
including the small towns of Lake
Jefferson, Rosemary, Kelso, MacAr-
thur and McGehree.
According to river statisticians this
break will serve to decrease the stage
of water from the flood laden Arkau-
sas river, thus relieving the pressure
on the Mississippi side of the river.
Encouraging conditions are report
ed from Memphis northward.
AT Memphis the gauge read All, a
fall OF six-tenths in the past twenty
four hours. Helena reported 537 and
stationary, while Vicksburg showed
479, rise of six-tenths The center
of the flood had been shifted to th,
section below Memphis.
Relief work in the overflowed areas
of Arkansas is being pushed by com
mittees from Memphis, aided by Ar
kansas citizens. Scores of refugees
driven from their homes by the Will
son breaks were reported to have re-
fused to leave their places of refuge
for the camp at Memphis, but boat
loads continued to arrive here all day
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1913-04-14
Suspected Of Big Robbery.

New York, April 1.-THE police re-
ceived word from Hazelton, Pa, that
man calling himself Joseph Stone.
an Englishman, and two other men
had been arrested there by New York
detectives who have been at work on
the theft of s250.o00 worth of jewelry
from the pawnshop Of Martin Simons
& Sons, on the East Side here, a
month ago
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1913-04-14
EARTHQUAKE IN SOUTHWEST
Shock Experienced In Parts of Utah
and Idaho.

Salt Lake City. Utah, April 14.-An
earthquake lasting several seconds
was experienced here.
|. Telephone operators on the fifth
floor Of the telephone building report
ed that their transmitters were rocked
by the force Of the shock.
Train dispatchers of the Oregon
Short Line railroad reported that the
shock was felt throughout Southeast
ern Idaho.