The Washington herald., 1913-06-22
GLANCE AT FASHIONS I'M CAPITAL
Expert Tells Of the Wesoned Woman OF Smart Society. What
She Wears. and When
By MARGARET WADE.

Stop. look. and listen! This terse and
forceful admonition. familiar 70 the
residents Of the rural crossroads, may
properly be applied to the wise or fool
ish woman completing her summer ward
robe. There is certainly danger ahead.
Those Washingtonians, as well as ia
vored women of other cities now So
journins in Paris. are sending home sur
prising advance notices Of the costumes
that will appear first at the Northern
resorts where the fashionables congre-
gate, and later at the Capital
Scores of women in Paris are now
ordering their gowns for next January,
styles a year ahead being quite q mod
est rule for the great purveyors of fash
ion. Fortunately, there still remains a
wide latitude of choice, as each famous
maker is specializing on some particular
feature: all, however, appear TO have
united in demonstrating that q radical
change Is at hand. Thai is, II the femi-
nine world viii acquiesce TO the demands
Of the designers and manufacturers.
According to the manufacturers, more
material should go into each gown. con-
sequently the designers offer draped
models in every character OF gown. The
each individual figure, 10 the age, the
complexion of the wearer, or to the oc-
casion for which the gown Is intended.
This depends on the will Of the maker
or the weakness ana will OF the pur-
chaser. For those women who, like Mrs.
Wilson. are welded to the plain skirt
and gracefully curved bodice. the will
of the designers will have little effect.
There are, unfortunately, very few
women OF smart society independent of
fashion, hence the warning words above.
ssss
According to Paquin, who finds many
followers in the Washington contingent Of
the well dressed, the waist line will re-
main normal Skirts will be longer ana
slightly fuller, but, and this Is not a
Paduin idea only. the fullness will be
draw or confined by some invisible line
close TO the hem. Drapery will be en-
ployed, but along lines hung, rather. than
looped or folded about tbs waist line.
Cheruit goes still further in the matter
of fullness, as her skirts are actually
gathered TO a waistband after the fashion
Of the very chic, yellow gown recently
worn by Mrs. James F. Curtiss. Miss
Margaretta Symons is another Washing
ton exponent Of the art Of Cheruit. BeGi,
from whom Miss Dora Glover has just
secured one OF the most fascinating of
almost exclusively to the making o.
gowns for the really young, not the near
young
The curveless bodice the straight skirt.
in many sections but with little fullness.
and a wide open jacket which is one of
the features OF the summer that is likely
TO become feature in Washington in the
autumn, are all suggestive of Beer. An
other feature of this comparatively recent
addition to the well-known arbiters of
fashion is the lavish use of buttons But
tons on a Beer gown may be crystals
cut like Jewels no larger than a pin head,
or exquisitely enameled pieces of metal of
the size of an old-fashioned individual
butter plate, whichever they are they will
be used with lavish hand.
For the near debutante there is a
glorified MILDLY blouse that is now enjoy
ing great favor with summer young
people in Paris. The one just made for
Miss Beatrice Clover is of cole de
cheval in an old blue" This new ma
terial. as its name implies, has some
thing of the stiffness Of mohair with
sufficient warmth to make it an assured