New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-19

o.. sror, her thoughts for the next
ci''',r she should not walk through
IL" Is of the leading shops where
~. new fabrics are so ailuringly DIS
,Sred Any one with the slightest APP
P'l,,,.ion Of the beautiful would be
Pre''a,5 NOT only to linger for inspec-
''''F hrt 10 open wide the pocketbook.
uo'' ,,a,,ltv that then confrontS the
Tue - which of all these lovely
'"S,o,', .tor he purchased Without know
stun s.s,,i,ely the styles for the coming
scasop how can one buy intelligently?
MATERIALS FIT NEW STYLES.
rho manufacturers have to certain
Went solved this problem for the con
.,,,ar They are constantly watching
.he straws in the great fashion realm
e.d cleaning knowledge OF future inten-
ions in divers ways. From this advance
;,formation. they make up fabrics which
all lend themselves TO the principal
motifs in the new styles. For instance.
,be success Of drapery. as introduced in
70 the costumes this winter, has been
,,o marked to he quickly dropped. TO
10 sure. the designers will have TO offer
new methods of drapins IN the spring
assumes but these changes do not al
s.ct the manufacturer. An he desires 10
,,ov Is that drapery will be fashion
.bls. then ne goes ahead and manufaC-
rrAs soft supple. pliahle goods that can
no 6fsped gracefully and easily. If a
certain weave scores a hit i'm one type
a. material-say . worsted-the manu-
.,cturers of silks and cottons will en-
dssvor to reproduce the same weave
This fact was demons trated by ratine.
which was first introduced i'm wooIler
fabric tor more properly speaking. was
first revived. for ratine was an old favor
re ten or twelve years ago under the
name of "uiggerhead'D. and is now be-
,gg shown iu silks and cottOus.
There are practically no novelties
among the silk and woolleu fabrics. the
familiar materials Of others years ap-
pearinc in new suises. but the new
colorings the difference in weight and
texture. so disguise these stUffs that
they have all the charm of novelty.
The new idea this spring lies rather in
the combination of materials than i'm
any actually new goods. Several at
tempts have been made during the last
TWO seasons to popularize the idea Of
combining two fabrics. matching OF con-
trastinc in color. i'm one costume, and
il is expected that il will be largely
developed this spring because the manu-
facturers have lent their aid. prOduc-
ing fancy effects with the plain goods
10 match
NEW IDEAS IN WoOLLENS.
The vogue for combinations Of TWO
materials is delightfully."- interpreted in
the new woollen matelasse with the plain
goods to match This material might
almost he classed as a novelty, because
this is the first time this broche effect
ias been shown in q woOllen material.
The demand for SILK mateiasse TINS
winter showed the manufacturers or
vOolens that they could include it with
their new stuffs 10 good advantage II
IS particularly smart when combined
with the plain material matching eN-
acty in color There is no fixed rule
for the combination Of these two fabrics
the rnatelasse may be used for the coat
with the plain material in the skirt
Or the coat of the plain material may
b. trimmed with matelasse 10 match the
skirt
CORDED WEAVES POPULAR.
An goods showing a corded weave
viii be- fashionable Among these Is the
Bedford cord. which may be procured
With the plain material OF the same color.
The Bedford cord has the corded effect
running lengthwise OF the goods ana
ihtr, are others. namely. the needle cords
ana tho rcps where inc corded effect
runs crosswisc. instead OF with the warp
II any distinction might be made Inc
latter will probably be considered niue
smarter. though the effect IS not as be
coming as when the ridges run length
Wise for the slight monotone striped as
the cords might be called add TO the
height Of the wearer and detract from the
appearance Of weight. There is more than
style TO recommend the cords and reps,
for they possess sterling wearing quail
ties The ottomans and poplins share the
favor shown 10 all corded materials
The popularity of corded effects Will
have no hurtful results as far as ratine
or eponge IS concerned. This material Is
100 firmly intrcnched in the favor OF the
designers To be- overlooked. The manu-
lecturers have taken all kinds Of liberties
With II ana have evolved some very strih-
ing effects. The two-tone colorings are
exceedingly good TO look upon, and the
stripes and plaids are sure TO be well re-
eeived. The Jacquard eponges have been
largely taken for coats. and should make
very good looking garments, so ornamen-
,sl IN themselves that they will require
little or no trimming. The combination
oi the jacquard and the plain eponge VIII
y largely featured with the same sue
cess that will attend the blending of the
'nstelasse and the plain goods.
serge is too good a standby to be ousted
y these newer fabrics, and the woman