New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-09-07
FANTASIES" OF FASHION.
Autumn Modes Indicate Success
Sors of X.Ray Gown.
NARR0WNESS TO REMAIN
Goat and Skirt Parti- Colored
Effects, with and Without
Waistcoats, Will Prevail.
From The Tribune Correspondent.

From The Tribune Correspondent
London, Aug 30.-At a time when the
newspapers are so ardently and earnestly
discussing the new Paris fashions Of the
X-ray gown 1t is pleasing 10 discover that
there will be worn this autumn and win
ter some smart and chic gowns Of another
kind.
The Times has just published an arti-
Gle which, TO one who has not been fully
initiated into the mysteries OF feminine
apparel, seems TO be worth while dis
cussion OF the ever present problem OF
what may be called chicness. The
Times" says:
Quite the most interesting OF the Fan
tastes sur lie Costume Moderne' recently
exhibited in London by Leon Bakst take
the form OF a coat and skirt Indeed, that
is partly why these fantasies are Of such
interest 10 the practical student OF dress.
For no matter how variable the modes.
the coat and skirt always persists IL IS
only In its precise form that there is con-
tinual change. Again though these draw
irgs are frankly fantasies. the artist has
expressed in them the salient points OF
to-days fashions. The picturesque aspect
OF the coat the importance OF the waist
coat, the narrowness and the straishtness
OF the skirt are well noted In each the
idea is so simple and yet so wonderfully
effective. Simplicity also characterizes
the decoration. So that many a couturier
with a too generous bias to ornament
might learn from them some useful les
sons in the art OF restraint
The best designers, however, nave FOR
the last few years set standard In this
matter. And Judging from the new mod
els displayed for the carly autumn they
still maintain this ideal. Not for The hrst
time do we see that because the coat is
perfectly cut and the skirt cleverly ar
ranged a smart effect is obtained. In
many instances, however, the waistcoat
Is extremely decorative, a beautiful bro
cade being considered none too luxurious
a material for this detail
SKIRTS NOT TO BE WIDER.
Meanwhile let no optimist hope for a
widening of the skirt For. though II is
POSSIBLE that Paris may exert her innu-
enca in this direction when October Is
here. she seems at present to be taking
q
criticise the scantiness OF the season s
models by giving the new mooeis an
even narrower effect than any whlch
have preceded them. This is MADE possi-
ble in some instances by the manner III
which the fronts are crossed, aho Witt
out seam. for plenty Of freedom is mus
insured with the narrowest possible ap-
pearance. .
cone very attractive dress carried out
in this way in dark blue chiffon VeiVet
is everywhere outlined with narrow EN-
hroidery in silk soutache. AND In this
NAV the lines OF the crossing in front are
naturally. emphasized. In the modei
V-.hsped opening appears In the centre'
Immediately above the feet just as II
occurs in more than one OF the fantasies
but this can easily be avoided, or simn-
lated underskirt Of satin or tanetas ar
ranged beneath Il.
.The same idea expressed in black
uoire taffetns is still more deserving OF
rotjce. because the latter promises TO be
very popular material In the early
.,.unn. The lines OF the coat are also
nor,,cuIarly pleasing. For the back
hitch e. rather longer than some nave
to.n ~ late. falls gracefully from the
shouIders and lie rounded in the basque
49,, tho fronts are crossed and tucked into
u,,de belt OF black chiffon velvet. The
Ia,,er is fastened beneath the basque at
r. hack and falls in one long tasselled
Ia alr,ost 10 the hem of the skirt. quite
s,r,r,e blouse I'm white mousseiine Is
-.orr With this dress. and its long sleeves
ore carried over the wrist just as are
those OF the coat
A cerise Colored Waistcoat.
"Tbe manner in which this coat 10 ias"
famed with the front OF the coat n'''S...
30 the belt at the waist preciuoes w
,..roduc,,on OF a waistcoat. But MANY
anotber model. designed In TINS ola.A
'nnire t,ffe,as is arranged with ~a's''
coat and il gives opportunity for tne ~.
..oavc,,on Of color. For instance one
,an,ous dressmaker has just finished d
d,ess Of this material with "a's'ooa
=, ce,Ise colored velvet. The coat 10
STONED away in front. and the waistcoat,
,,bich is cut very low. Is crossed an
tss,ened with one button ana u ''s"
carried down 10 two points pew" 49,
vsist Above the wsistcoat APPEAR ~
ono,,,ss,te Of white tulle, very n"e'y
..a uttb ANAL. round pearl