The chronicle=news., 1913-01-07
sKlRrED COATS IN FAVOR

i That Russian blouse cIlcctA are
growing In favor Is indicated by the
variety OF skirted coats and long
OyerLresses that are cropping out
from dag to day. The style IL shown
in house gowns as wei aS street cos
TUNES. and indeed many sumptuous
dinner dresses clearly reflect the in.
tflucnce of the graceful coat and
sirtled waist OF the Russian blouse.
The smartest street toilets are OF
velvet made with the long bcltcd
coat trimmed with FUR. but til"
Sleeves and other details OF the up
per part OF the coat are quite unlik"
| the original blouse which inspired
the style. The shoulders take on II
decidedly different cut: often the
yoke effect that is now 70 prevalent
runs well down over the top OF tn"
long, tight sleeve. The new Russian
coat suit Is at its hest when fash
ioncd OF velvet. satin or light weight
wool. Heavier materials are iar from
satisfactory on account OF making
the figure appear clumsy and shape
less.
Fashion y cdict at the present tim.
= II to close the skirtcl coat at tho
throat. although the model Ii cut 50
that when opened aud turned back
II will look finished. but rcNcrs have
Tor the moment. disappeared In IA
vor OF tho military styl. and til"
small rooi of fur standing high ON
the, hroat. The front OF the gar
mcnt Ii trimmed with bands OF cord
or braid which loop over big bullet
bG.tons. Usually the belt Is Of crush
'ci satin or soft leather. which l. re-
p' 'nicd In the upper parts Of the
shoes. unless. as j. frequently the
ease. the shoes be- madr OF III. zane
material ns the costume. Skunk FUR
trims nearly all OF the best winter
gowns. while martcn and other long
haired iurs ARE high In favor. The
huff has become u part Of the fur
trimmed gown. ani with i's huge
proportions it's cost often reaches
several times the price OF the irock
u, accompanies.
Skirtcd cont effects. II long enough
are almost always becoming. aud
Will. n HIrdlc Is often apt to be try
Ing TO the woman not possessed oi
.a hylph-likc figure. most wonderful
changes can he effected by the belts
being placed n, Just the right line:
besides II is not u bel; intended TO
he drawn tight to the outline Of til.
waist. Not y', has the normal waist
line been accepted In coats. but "a
much longer waist " fash GonI bic.
Double breasted effects are IN the
lead. and both the upper par, OG the
coat aud its skirts iastcn quite FAR
over the LEFT side. but ~ u straight
line from bust to the hem Of til"
coat. From u practical ndpoint II
| is fnr wiser to have the gown ihiT Is
20 be worn under Russian coat
Malc with waist and skirt separate.
Il is u great relief not to wear al
ways the sane waist. and now that
fashion sanctions the separate white
blouse. there can he such n variety
given 30 the coat costume as to rem
der II far more useful. These white
waists are made OF cream white laccs
or satin and are exceedingly bccom-
ing. Manr are distinctly novel In
design and shape although one and
all are on the blouse order. The
simple brocadcs are much In demand
for this use rs are also the chiffon
.,clvc:s and s0f, satins brocaicd with
velvet. Ornsic buttons OF one Kind
or another decorate the hnndsomcst
blouscs: these may either be In
wide contrast or In strict harmony.
as tho individual prefers.