The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1913-06-28

loosely knotted below the waist line
The addition of this peplum below
the waist on a one-piece frock gives
| variety to the gowns and makes them
quite different from what they have
been in the last three years. When
the material is soft these peplums are
| often double, such as one on a dark
| blue satin gown which is knife plated
| to a wide girdle of the same material
| and is shaped to a deep rounded point
| at back and grades UP to four inches
| in front.
| There is another kind which is also
made double, but has a brilliant color
| used on the inside, which shows with
| every movement of the wearer. This
! is carried out on a frock of thin sum
mer serge which will be worn for trav-
| cling this summer. The pepIum is
| slightly shorter in the middle of the
| front than anywhere else and floats in
to two deep points at the sides. The
! lining is of deepest purple satin and
| this color is repeated in the piping of
! a pointed sailor collar and turn over
| cuffs which finish the three quarter
| sleeves. 1t is rather strange the pur-
pie should appeal with so much pop
/ ularIty in hot weather, but in America
| they are not beginning to wear it as in
Paris, where they have gone in vio-
| lent1y for violet shoes and stockings.
At all the races over there this
month there were women wearing CO.
thurnes of violet kid and suede patent
leather slippers with violet uppers
laced with violet ribbon.
Over here we have confined the color
so far to gowns and hats and of these
there are plenty.
Even the gowns of white serge and
linen and cotton ratine have some of
shaped peplums below the waist to
simulate a coat. There is one very
good looking violet ratine model that
ha hIra jy
of new gown. The skirt is run with
narrow side pleats. down the sides,
which are stitched to the knees and
then pressed into place. The blouse is
quite loose and does not fasten in front
but opens to show a front of fine white
batiste run in small tucks and lace.
This has a turn over collar of itself
and there is a larger one made of en-
broidered batiste on the neck of the
linen blouse. The sleeves are three
quarter length, are large and comfort
able and are finished with four-inch
turnover cuffs which are half covered
with white embroidered batiste. So far
the gown has regulation air, but it is
put out of the ordinary by the addi-
ton of short peplum that Is fitted to
the figure except at the left side, where
it stands but for two or three inches in
a soft flare. Thes is the lampshade eff
feet that smartly dressed women made
so much of during the last month of
winter.
The girde is of black satin and is
finished at the side with a shirred
buckle from which hangs a wide
streamer end that is fiattened out on
the peplum and stands out on a bias
line with it from the figure.
When fashion first brought in the
fancifuI girdIe women thought it would
only last for a month. But today it is
very much on the increase, and prom
ises to be a feature of every gown of
the season. One always sees a girdle
of some kind on these one-p piece frocks
that look like coat suits and usually
they are black
The desire to use block ribbon in
varied cOlOrs after the Cubist designs
passed away after the first few weeks
or experiment, but it may come back