Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

90 tinguished organic
alton whose men,
hcrship is composed of women of fame
and fortune. paused politely. He who pre-
pares each day wonderful menus for lead
rrs in society. in the artistic professions
and in great philanthropic enterprises
could not bring himself to the point OF
criticising any feminine characteristics
without an effort. His Gallo soul was
disturbed by the idea that he might be
misunderstood He is a man who regards
his vocation as one of the fine arts and.
like all persons who are supreme in any
line of achievement. he is modest. with
n gesture that indicated how much @le re-
GREETED to find fault with anything here in
the United States he went on:
But American women. in fact all Amer
leans. are wasteful. In cooking the
American women demand always the best,
hut they have only recently been greatly
concerned about making the best of the
best. There should he the grand con-
science in cooking"
The grand conscience in cooking. Truly
the Frenchman had uttered convincing
the ethical side of preparing food.
The idea is to provide just enough for
each meal. to associate Just the RICH;
dishes and to have everything cooked at
the last possible moment before serving.
50 that nothing may be spoiled he ex-
planned Cooking is a science first. Each
process must be timed that there will
b. no chance of having meats wait for
the vegetables. All should be placed on
the table the instant that the fire has
completed the cooking.
Much waste is due to Indifference to
the clock as well TO poor estimates of
what Will be eaten at a meal. And 1t is
when the food is left after a dejeuner
dinner that is often cast away instead
of beng made into tempting entrees. For
the domestic cuisine a knowledge of how
To combine materials into truly savory
dishes is most Imperative. 1t is that
knowledge that Americans lack, but they
are awake to their deficiencies and their
colleges of domestic science are doing
great things.
1t is the mode row to strive i'm all
things pertaining to dining for that SIM
plicity that stands for real elegance,
which always distinguishes the haut
monde. Even this may be said to be a
protest against the national tendency
again l must ask pardon-toward waste
funess. But the simplest dinner may.
of course. cost a great dea'. Even then
il has more elegance, since the dollars
have been concealed. since they have
been spent for rare importations prepared
for epicures.
~ good dinner means first. we'll
balanced menu in which assembled
the dishes which associate we'll together;
second. cooking that is above the or
binary, superlative in, its perfection. and
third fawleSs service. The idea of SIM
plicity should he carried out even i'm the
decorations. Thus "a long, low bed of
rare orchids or roses is to he preferred.
instead of any elaborate scheme Of or
namentation The guide should be COM
mon sense. which teaches that above all
things ease and comfort, pleasure for
the eye and for the palate should be as
sured
When it is known that for twenty
wears Antoine DupraZ has studied what
constitutes good dinner this dictum
concerning simplicity means IL great deal
Before he went to the Colony Club he
was at Delmonico's and he has had A
chance to learn the tastes of the patrons
At other restaurants. where those who
Gir- demand the highest achievements III
culinary things.
After ~ became acquainted with the
demands of americans he returned to
Paris to learn whatever might be new
in European ideas and there he found
out, what every chef knows, that the real
IL successful cook is a creator as we'll
IS an imitator. So now he originates
novelties and improves on old favorttes.
He develops individuality and i'm a hun
bred subtle WAYS impreSSeS his person
ality upon what he produces each day.
Like the great designers of costumes. he
studies his clientele. and IL is conceded
that his employers are discriminating din
erS. for they bring To their club the faS
tidiousness, the fine taste and the criticai
-eise which belong to women of large
social experience and extended acquaint-
aucc in the worlds centers of culture.
\ menu which Antoine Dupraz consid-
as follows:
Hnrs d'ocuyres.
CLANS or Oyster Cocktail.
,1,@G s of ,yr,ls "p M Cckcn ,;u nat@" or
Consommc Royal.
lipi If In .>..tr.
TiIrt ~ Beef Isr,Iod Richclieu.
New Asparagus M"us>rliue SAUCE.
'baud froih "f 'hica"n, Renaissance.
leo Cream
CoFber lie Fantasia.
CAT. Noir.
1t Is in the cooking Of the iilct Of Eng
lsh sole that the ar, of the French chef
reveals itself The Dupraz recipes for
preparing fish for the table are famous.
Each is original and for the benefit of
women who desire to begin the new year
by adding 10 their knowledge of cookery
hc gives the following directions:
hfter the fish has been boned and the
SKIN taken of put il into a saucepan
with butter. salt and pepper and IA glass
ful of good white wine Place the sauce
pan in the oven where the fish can cook
evenly for a few moments. Boil the fish
bones in Il quart of water with a little
SRice, half a le"k and few onions and
carrots.
In another saucepan quarter pound of