Arizona republican., 1913-12-17
PADS AND FASHIONS

NEW YORK Dec. 15-The new line or silhouette is still in the making and heaven only knows what
 it is going to be. Judging from some of the extreme advance models dis played by noted fashion designers in Paris and elsewhere the coming style promises to be a sort of cross be- tween Oriental trousers and a ballet skirt. However. great many things may happen before the new style crystallizes into definite form. Some of the best Parisian dressmakers are introducing q curious combination of panniers and tunics, the panniers be- ing rather flat and the tunics dis tinctly Persian in outline.
 This style was exploited with con siderable success in a dinner gown of orange colored charmeuse which was shown by one of the exclusive de- signers recently. On the draped fronts of this skirt there were some fine Japanese embroideries, and the short. rather flat, panniers were car ried out in dull blue chiffon of the exact shade of the most prominent designs on the skirt. Then there was a Persian tunic of diamante tulle. fringed with crystal and a fold ed corsage of oyster white tulle. mounted over flesh pink chiffon. There were diamond shoulder straps and a broad sash of black crepe de chine embroidered in cut jet and fin ished off with jet fringes. At the waist directly in front, there was one of the new conventional flowers which are made of velvet O plush. The flower was in velvet of the deep est shade of blue, and for a heart it had a huge diamond button
 one of the newest and most sue cessful materials for afternoon wear
 is "drap de neige" This lovely cloth is, as it's name suggests, pure white.
 In texture it resembles duvetyn, but it is even softer and more supple
 than this famous material. Drap de
 neige is being largely used by one of the most exclusive tailors in Paris
 He is making it up into ideal walk
 ing and skating suits for girls, and he
 is trimming it with bands of white
 fox and also with Siberian fox. The
 latter combination is wonderfully ef-
 fective, for this fox is lemon yellow
 in color and the Things of coats and
 wraps are made to match. There is
 no more satisfying combination of color than lemon yellow and ivory
 
 of some deep vivid color in the hat
 a perfect ensemble is obtained.
 Another new material is velvet
 chiffon. This stuff is heavier than
 mousseline de velours and very much
 more durable. It is being made in all the rich shades of claret and red. which are now so fashionable, and
 in the purple known as violet de
 MOnseigneur" it is of rare beauty.
 Taffeta combined with velvet is a well liked combination for bridge gowns. The taffeta usually appears in the flounces or tunic of the skirt, and again as collar and trimming on the bodice Promet. one of the noted Paris designers delights in black taf feta for the bustle-like drapery on his velvet costumes. but if the gown is to be worn for bridge, where the wearer must necessarily be seated for some time, these elaborate back drapings are not practical
 Second in demand to velvet at the present time is duvetyn, the all silk fabric which has proved more pOpu- lar and Wearabe than the silk and wool combinations. By way of varie- ty two new duvetyns have been in 1 troduced by the creator of the ori- | ginal fabric a striped effect resem ! The plain duVetyn combined with 1 The palm duvetyn combined with either of these makes an interesting | gown. Though there is sufficient | body in the all silk duvetyn to make | it an ideal material for the three | piece street costume. yet it is not too 1 warm for an interior frock, especially ! when it is combined with chiffon or i other thin
 In fact, many of the velvet dresses, | as well as the duvetyn gowns. display the popular transparent bodice of chiffon. A stunning frock of taupe | colored duvetyn had a bodice in the | self tone embroidered in gold thread