Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

green. Imagine a wild red fox looking at
itself turned into a gorgeous Turkish
blue.
New Furs.
But such is the new movement with
furs and there are many who already
think that 1t is better to wear purple
and blue fox than a yellow one. There
were so many red foxes on the market
this summer and they were so plentifully
| worn in July that 1t is probable some
eccentric furrier or dressmaker thought
of dipping the surplus ones In the dye pot
and putting them out in front OF the pup
lie as an experiment
At Deauville the fashion went quite well
and women wore this new kind OF FUR
around their shoulders in the afternoons
Of the Warmest DAYS. purely to get a
color effect with white gown Now the
dressmakers are showing skirts and coats
trimmed with these colored animals for
afternoon wear. and Cabot exploits a
moleskin coat dyed bright green, which the
manikin wears over green gown
Both Poret and Cabot use new kind
of yellow fur called Rolinsky. which Is
natural Russian peltry. This is used
as is fisher and skunk for bordering hens
of skirts and making high neckpieces
for coats.
You see there are no revers on the pres
ent coat, so uses narrower fur at
the neck as a kind of ruff that stands
straight up about the ears and then drops
to the waist, or. when the coat is fol-
lowed to the collar bone, the fur makes
a tight band about the neck with mar
rover piece to edge the front that laps
over.
A great deal Of yellow and brown fur
foxes. for khaki in two or three shades.
as well as leather. are colors that are en-
ployed by all the dressmakers The COM
bination OF khaki and black has given
way to yellow and brown. and therefore
both skunk and fisher and some red foxes
can be admirably used with coat suits or
frocks in the new shades of tam
Collars and Sleeves of Fur.
1t is quite the fashion to use fur for
these new enormous pearshaped sleeves
that are put into blouses and the coats
There will be a straight Russian blouse
of black panne velvet and the immense
sleeves. which have no gathers at shout
der or wrist. are of broadtal. The same
idea is worked out with suit Of khaki
duvetyn, which will have sleeves Of sable
The new collar, which is exceedingly
fashionable for street coats, is usually of
fur and is very high at the back and
sides. with a sweeping turnover that
reaches to the shoulder blades and
spreads out almost to the arms In two
points. 1t stands well away from the
back Of the neck. as do all the collars.
Even in one-piece blouses. the rolling
Japanese collar dips about an inch below
the nape of the neck and stands out for
two inches.
This Is not a becoming line and those
who do not like it obviate it's awkward
ness by building up an inside fichu or
Reynolds drapery of white mousseline
and tulle. This rises well up toward the
hair and remains close to the neck, then
crosses the chest in surplice fashion.
Evening coats are a mixture OF velvet
and fur A great deal OF ermine is used
with bright cOlored velvets, and even
when the coat is all of velvet there are
enormous cuffs on the sleeves of fur.
which. when they are put together. make
large muff for the hands. This trick
has been turned very cleverly by several
designers.
The new muff which is introduced by
Poiret who is always clever with furs.
looks for all the world like one of those
formal French cushions which are placed
on Recamier diyans
He probably got the idea from his mar
tine decorations 1t is very effective cir
cular in shape, fiat. rather thin. 1t looks
like a breastplate when carried by a
woman. 1t is broadtail trimmed with
circular rows of ermine. and has huge
barbaric ornament in the middle 1t is
strung around the neck by long velvet
ribbon or silken cord.
Possibly he was not inspired by sofa
pillow On second thought it is far more
likely that he got his idea of the ribbon
and the muf from those PLAQUES OF
diamonds that Cartier invented and which
the women wear on long velvet ribbons.
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