davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05
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fashionable lines laid down for gowns
that one fears for it's length of life How
ever, that is a gamble every one must
take, for there are few long coats in any
kind of peltry that are cut on the lines
that were once conventional and serve
year in and out.
The furriers as we'll as the manufac-
turers have seen big profits in rapid and
sweeping fashion changes and therefore
the coats this year took on the so-caled
pannier effect as quickly as it was an
nounced in Paris. AS for - rest of the
shape the shoulders are loose and sloping,
the hem tight, narrow and Sloping up
ward in front and the waist and hips
loose and sagging. The sleeves in the new
coats are rather small, and while they
serve well over blouse sleeves they are
not large enough If one wishes to use
the coat in the evening or even wear
1t over coat suit
1t is the part of wisdom to get sleeves
that are large and have a comfortable
armhole as this is more important than
one imagines without experience. For
tunately the fashions of the day have
brought about armholes in various shapes.
both queer and normal, and many of
them run down to the waist in pear shape.
This provides for a sleeve that is inn
mensely large just where width is needed
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05
FASHIONS AND EADS.

Gold tissue forms many sashes to lace
and satin gowns.
Velvet is actually being used to trim
tailored suits of linen.
Ermine fur is being used to trim fine
blouses of white Lace
Tussor silk and cloth will be combined
for tailored suits.
Small hats made entirely of flowers will
have long loop bows of velvet
Basaued coats with bolero fronts are
seen among the latest suit models.
Outstanding collars of feathers have in
side ruff1es of fine malines lace
Cretonne embroidery is seen again on
the hats being shown for spring.
White lingerie collars and cuffs will be
seen on the new tailored suits for spring.
Two-toned self buttons are another fea-
ture Of the linen dresses for next season.
The note of fur on evening gowns Is so
insistent that it has almost become a
convention.
No matter how millinery fashions fiuc-
tuate ostrich feathers never lose their
standing.
Some of the prettiest umbrella handles
this season are of pierced silver over
burnt ivory.
Ramie linen and fine French linen are
used in combination on the new spring
morning frocks.
The sleeve of the new linen coats and
gowns frequently three-quarter
length and slightly flowing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05
New Place Cards.

9 OMETHING new in place cards is al
- ways of interest to those who fire.
quently entertain. A quaint design seen
recently was a card about one inch wide
and three inches long. At the top was a
picture of a pretty girl whose hat when
tilted back. showed the guests name
beneath. Another card showed a small
messenger boy carrying small grip.
When the grip was lifted the name was
found beneath. A lady with a little fan
would be another clever idea, Or pansies
with attached leaves would be neat For
a stag dinner the cards could be made
with each one to represent the guest S
occupation. Cards for the banker, tailor.
editor, merchant. etc, could be made very
quaint if the artist is humorist enough to
portray little caricature work in the
establishment. These little affairs can
be made at home with white cards and
cartridge paper. and if one can sketch the
pictures may be made very attractive.
A tiny silk bag In which are tucked a
few sprays of artificial flowers. such as
lilies of the valley. or small rosebuds. and
a small name card. is a delightful combi-
nation of place card and favor
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

and skunk We're considered excessively
common, and one thought that the prices
for them would remain low, but the scare
ity of the animals became so marked
that it was not possible to sell at the
original prices. and consequently they
have shot up to high level.
Coats are not made of these pelts. They
are used for shoulder pieces, for muffs
and for turbans. Their chief sale is for
trimming, this season has suddenly
developed into one of fur-trimmed gar
ments. There has been nothing like it
for decades. 1t is possible that the popu-
larity of rough fabrics and of corduroy
velvet brought about the lavish use of
fur bands as ornamentation. but what
ever the reason the condition is here, and
the fashion is taken advantage Of by
every woman who can afford it. But after
all her real choice is for fur coat. and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05
Now Is the Best Time to Buy Furs, as
Good Styles Are Reduced to
the Average Purse

The N-Shaped opening j. usually sur
mounted by a huge collar and by revers.
The fastening is double breasted. which
is always warm as We'll as attractive
Large buttons are used. and sometimes
they are of metal and again of fur. An
other precaution one should take is To see
that the fronts fasten far down toward
the knee There is a marked tendency
in all the long fur coats to slope away
sharply just below the waist. and this
leaves a good deal of the body exposed
to the cold. The safest ones to buy retain
the double breasted fashion nearly to the
hem. and even though they slope away
they do it with tapping edges.
One will quickly find after a little eN-
perience that the heavy pelts. those that
are infiexible are the best to choose, be-
cause they are not cumbersome if one
walks In these DAYS of the ubiquitous
motor the makers of many garments trust
too entirely to the fact that every one
rides, and therefore the woman who must
walk or likes to walk has not an easy
time finding exactly what she wants. and
this is especially true In fur coats. There
are many peltS. such as ponySkin, which
are exceedingly warm and which wear
moderately well for the price paid. but if
they reach below the hips they become a
burden for the shoulders to carry and are
only comfortable when one is in motor
The softer pelts like beaver and otter
and seal. which are pliable and light in
weight are the ones to choose for coats
when every pound counts. There is a dis
position on the part of some women TO
buy velvet and corduroy coats heavily
trimmed with fur, and these are also es-
pecially reduced but they are only serv-
iceable for social affairs and do not serve
for the street and especially for morning
hours. They have an attraction all their
own, which includes warmth and beauty,
hut they are not the right kind of gar
ments TO wear with cloth skirt and
stout boots at midday, although women
do it.
The heavily corded English corduroy
makes a very good looking coat. II must
lie admitted especially when ii has a
hem. cuff and rolling revers of skunk or
fox or raccoon But it really should carry
with 1t a skirt of the same material. IL
does not look we'll over Zibeline, lamb :
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

wool Iatine or velour he line. and these
the fabrics which make mp the MAJ
jority Of suits this winter.
When one is choosing "A half long coat
OF fur the heavy peltry is not objections
able. Its weight is negligible. The fash
ionahle eat In the short coats does not
show any marked fullness over the hips.
although the extreme ones are draped
in rather an elaborate manner. \ woman
who is looking for sensible everyday
coat will get the cutawaY style. with
modera large and long sleeves a dou-
ble-b breasted fastening at the waist line.
a long. rounded point in the back and
high, rolling collar with sweeping revers
To the waist line. one crossed well over
the other. This collar and the revers
should be Of another fur from the KIM
used in the coat. 1t is In this mingling o.
two or three peltries that much of the
beauty In the modern fur garment lies
There Is no objection on the part ~
the designer or the wearer 10 using furs
of different colors. for the effect is ex-
ceedingly good. For instance. white foN
is used on black Persian lamb. yellow
and brown raccoon is used on hudson
seal. and smoked fox Is used on beaver
and by the way. the brown beaver is Is
pecially alluring this winter. whether
made into a long coat or shoulder piece
with muf.
The moleskin coats are a. the height OF
fashion, but they are expensive and can
not be guaranteed for long life. The new
mosaic marking has met with strong ap-
prevail everywhere. and IL was rather a
happy fancy on the part of the furriers
You know what IL is ! suppose? It's
name explains il all. The fur seems 70
be stamped into squares or diamonds, and
the surface presents a more pleasing APP
pearance than was ever seen before in a
moleskin The limitations of this fur arr
numerous, and one can get pieces of IL n
almost any price. and therefore IL is NOS
advocated TO the woman who cannot af
ford to buy the real peltry, well marked
and admirably made.
The only new fashion in fur pieces for
the neck is not I'm the make. but In the
manner OF wearing them. They are now
draped about the shoulders. with the ends
hanging in the back
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

they never have the amount of copyin
that the August and February gowns
have.
These. therefore. serve as models to
the manufacturers for that first spring
season. and We are seeing now the gowns
which have been worn two months before
across the ocean. But what difference
does that make? They are new here.
The woman who does not go south would
seem to be free from the necessity of
choosing any Of these clothes but, on the
contrary. she will probably use them as
models for her new spring gowns, thus
taking advantage of the economy in buy
ing three months ahead OF the season
IL one would judge the spring by the
present outlook, there will be few marked
changes in cut or drapery. Even the fight
between the long and short coat may
continue. and even Paris itself divides
its enthusiasms between the Russian
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05
AND THE SASH TIED IN FRONT,

and allows a decrease in size below the
elbow. There are other armholes that
are round and hang low on the arm. and
these also have their distinct advantage
over the small opening.
In this climate it is necessity that
one should have a coat that fastenS to
the neck, even though it is arranged into
a graceful opening to the bust when one
wishes to wear 1t in that manner The
French coats rarely make provision for
protection over the chest. although the
Paris climate is extsperating in it's cold
moisture during the winter The Amer
lean coats. or those modified from French
models. allow for this fastening, and If
one wishes to avoid pneumonia it is wise
to refuse any coat that cannot do it's
duty. 1t is the fashion TO have every
thing cut shaped in front. and fur
coats are not laggards in this respect
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

and thew desire to see behind the scenes.
vhert the staging and working out of the
>pring and summer clothes have begun.
n is necessary for some women to buy a {
bargain time. and this is the day appoint
,d by the shops and dressmakers. They
canniiy realize that nothing so pleases
the buyer as an offer of a new thing at
small price. and therefore they offer to
make spring clothes now for half the price
they must ask later.
between the anxiety of the seller and
the desire to be forehauded in the buyer
there - :, vast majority who are serene.
they have the clothes they want and they
10 not care TO purchase for the future;
they idly glance at what is worn and
what the shops display without any feel
ing of envy or desire for possession 1t
has become such an unusual condition OF
things when women can rest on their oars
ooncerninc clothes that il is worthy of a
,hapter The turmoil of dress has be
come too frenZicd and the wise ones are
foretellinE its end and the philosophical
ones are wearied of il and retreating into
an exclusive method of wearing sane
,lO. hes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

mere essentials of color MT and hang do
not appeal TO the commercial set who fill
the Place VendorHc, the Rue Taitbout and
the Rue de la Paix during February and
August These buyers have instructions
TO buy new things because the shops must
use them for advertisement and the manu-
facturerS must have them To push along
their trade among the retailers and the
buyer himself must find them If he would
hold a good salary.
And so the inrushing horde of American
buyers covers Paris twice a year. all cry
ing: Give us novel y" 1t is a japanese
circle in which there is no beginning or
end. and for which no one part seems re-
sponsible, and each segment is grated
upon the other The sufferer is the Amer
lean woman. and she is the most willing
victim that could he found.
This has been the condition for years
and each month has made l. worse. II
j. tine Tor the artificial edifice 10 fall |
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

their former place of honor. but they are
subllmated sheets that would astonish our
granlmothers This year they are charm
ingly embroidered. and again the scallop
is much i'm evidence. Some Of them have
Madeira embroidery and few introduce
cluny lace. But the best are valuable
chiefly because of their handkerchiefiike
work on the turnover edge. which usu-
ally bears the monogram. Sets of sheets
with pillowcases to match cost from Slo
to 500 or more.
But in the line of sheets and pillow
cases the muslin weave may well deceive
the unwary observer, and many q hem
stitched and initiated company" bed COW
ering is but substitute for linen. A for
eign invention has enabled our Amer
lean manufacturers to simulate hand en-
broidery so cleverly that the pilowcases
wreath sell for 95 cents q pair
Every woman who attends the January
sales should bear In mind that true econ
omy means care In procuring quality. not
quantity. The best that can be obtained
is never too good, for the wearing posi-
bilities Of linen and muslin are to be
counted on according to the reliability OF
the weave. The laundering Of all wash
materials must be taken into considera-
ton when the ironing OF q tablecloth Is
the test.
1t is much wiser to buy barely enough
of what is good than q large quantity OF
Indifferent quality. The sheets that are
exactly the right length, neither too mar
row nor too skinny In any way, the pill
lowcases that At and the tablecloths OF
proper dimensions pay interest on the in
vestment Of extra dollars and cents.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

"A large amount added for the name on
the label and the rent paid by the firm
that sold it.
Good furs-that is, those of expensive
auality-have not decrea sed in price. but
the flooding of the world with fur coats
is due to the fact that the common
animals can be sold at a low price. There
is more imitation fur on the market than
ever before. but there is an immense
amount of what is called semi-precious
fur, and this sells at a moderate rate.
In the early days of their fashion raccoon
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

nothing you can say against its weight
has any effect upon her.
Not only are they the fashion. but they
have the tradition of luxury and expense
hanging about them and they do solve
the problem of how to keep warm on
bitter days and nights. and especially in
the motor. So the first thing a woman
wants to know about is the fashion in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

Ones needs determine the choice of a
long and short coat. If she wishes to
wear 1t for shopping over one-piece
frock and for afternoon affairs as well
she will find the shorter coat more con-
venient, but If she wants one that must
serve for all purposes it should be long.
1t is now considered as necessary to pro-
tect the knees as the chest, and q long
coat allows one to wear all manner of
thin frocks beneath it for special occasi-
ons.- The cut Of these is quite important
this year and follows so closely on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

blouse and the eton jacket. The Amer
lean manufa cturers have decided on TWEEN
ty-seven-inch jackets. but they cannot
lay down the law SO early. There is a
strong feeling toward the eton coat. and
there are many who would not be sur
prised to see the incoming of knife
pleated skirts with eton Jackets, and I'M
mense rolling collars and revers of white
NULL
These will be made in the new weaves
of pongee and soft serge. which is a thin
copy of the zibeines of today. One piece
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

Tt is all very we'll To pat the blame on
Paris but Paris puts the blame on Amer
lea and those who have the intellectual
elasticity To reach To both sides of the
question are not sure which is right The
American buyers deliberately induce the
French designer to exploit all manner of
freahish clothes because they Will only
spend their money for a novelty. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

HERE, i res fulness
i'm the realm OF
clothes in January
for the layinan;
hut there is turmoil
for those who rise
to buy and sell.
With the women
there is a feeling OF
peace for a short
period of time. UNI
less the feeling for
change is rampant
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05

perfectly. for the slightest wrinkle or
crease Is conspicuous on the unbroken
surface. They show even spot of water
and are harder to use more than once
than are the cloths of the old-fashioned
all-over patterns.
Most of these plain cloths. which are
bordered with plain, broad bands, are
hemstitched. although the scalloped edges
are in high favor. The most costly ones
are embroidered with delicate running
vines. that follow the edges but do not
appear in the centers. An initial or Mono
gram is also an added decoration. but
the preference is for rather small letters
The napkins that match these plain cloths
come in various sizes.
Next in desirability to the cloths with
out pattern are those in which are mar
row bars or broad bands of reverse weave.
These are most effective. although not so
stripes is a matter of individual choice.
but in most cases the bands two inches
wide are desirable.
This year there is a return to popular
ity of the square tables Of colonial fame.
and the bars and stripes are especially
suitable for them. The oval tables, SO
much used in Victorian days. are also be-
coming favorites, and the cloths for these
have scalloped or hemstitched edges, the
narrow hem being seen quite as often as
those that are wider.
The day when table linen was bought
by the yard has passed. SO far as the
average housewife is concerned. All the
best cloths are as perfect in proportion
as doilies, and the patterns are as care
fully designed for them as if they We're
oriental rugs. 1t is astonishing how rea-
sonable these cloths, which only gen.
GRAFTON ago were considered an extrava-
gance, have become and how commonly
they are used. They are made in con-
venient sizes and lengths, in squares and
circles large and small.
With the plain cloth as the latest pref
erence it is not surprising that there is
decided reaction against the elaborate ia
BILE coverings of lace over silk and satin
and intricate drawn work lined with color
which in recent years have been accepted
for formal occasions. The Italian iiiet is
still supremacy to be desired-especially
when 1t is enriched with needle point-by
those who can spend $500 or $1,000 for
tablecloth. Cluny insertions and edges
are also much liked, for they have taken
a firm hold upon the fancy of many
women.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-05


proper mood to enjoy the annual
Il sales of white goods. which each
year become more important. So
beautiful are the newest table linens and
doylies that it is possible to derive great
deal of JOY from the mere examination of
the wonderful weaves and charming pat
terms, and day passed at the counters
heaped high with the finest importations
from the looms Of Ireland, Germany and
France, will be we'll spent, even though it
may be necessary to turn away from the
costliest offerings in order to buy the
cheapest materials.
No matter how long woman has kept
house or how often she has conscientiously
replenished her store of table linens pill
lowcases and towels. it is always possible
TO discover novelties. and it need not be
time wasted if after she has loitered an
hour or two in the contemplation of ex-
quisite lace-trimmed centerpieces and
elaborately embroidered sheets she must
be content to purchase plain tray cloths
and muslins by the yard.
X X
1t is an education to study the artistic
products Of loom and needle. and 1t Is re-
1TeSnlnS 10 lIldSluo JUST WLdt ouc might
buy If one had great wealth. Better still.
it is inspiring and comforting to make the
discovery that riches are not necessary
in order to attain to the possession of
lovely damasks and fine muslins. for these
sales put treasures within the reach of
persons Of limited means. The actual re-
auctions in prices vary from 20 to 60 per
cent. and so the housewife who has COW
eted a twenty dollar tablecloth at Christ
mas time may obtain it for 50 before
Candlemas.
This year the exclusive shops are show
ing, as most to be desired. the plain
linens, which have been offered for table
cloths the last few seasons. Although
they have been rather slow in gaining ac-
ceptance, they are now considered the
best purchases for the most fastidious
families
plain linens are the damasks that are
absolutely without pattern. and as lus-
trous as the most costly satin. They have
for borders bands. either broad or mar
row, of reverse weave. and they are the
first choice of all who can afford to con-
slider beauty and variety before utility.