The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1913-03-16
PARIS DREssMAKERs TURN THEIR
INGENUITY TOWARD THE
WAIST.
SLEEVELESS COAT SEEN
PEASANT COSTUMES, ARTISTIC AND
QUAINLy SIMPLE, TO
HAVE THEIR
DAY.

on February A. Jnul then everything
regarding the new styles was more or
less tentative. Dressmakers may plan,
merchants may buy and push, but 1T is
this greatest of Partisan authorities
who pronounces the final verdict and
to whom the world bows. American
women will be cautious about resign
ing their toilets to the new domestic
leaders who are making so strenuous
a fight now for the government OF
fashions. Importers are not intiml-
dated. for women who have once worn
read Partisan clothes will never again
go back willingly to designs less ar
tistic and fascinating.
Beneath much surface confusion of
ideals there is one suggestion quietly
pushing it's, way toward the light, ana
this Is that the new American fashions
are much less original, more conven-
tionaI than the French modes, and are
distinguished for a certain crudeness
Of coloring Insidiously. rhe French
are throwing off the yoke of the East
by blending so perfectly and SO har-
moniously the deep, rich tints of that
harbaric idea that there results beau
tiful and satisfying mingEnS OF hues
that is essentially their own
They are using many warm browns
with golden lights running through.
many puppies that appear heavy at the
first glimpse, but close scrutiny con-
vinces one that the intention is In give
preference to lighter and more gentle
tones for spring; that this summer viii
see more decided preferences tor all
the tender hues, such as champagne,
tar, pale green and blue. and espe-
ciaiIy white. Powered silks. with
cream white and silver white grounds
all running over with garlands OF
roses. chrysanthemums or carnations
make the show rooms IF the leading
houses marvels of elegance a this mo-
ment. The glitter of tipsel is rot quite
CO insstent. there are fewer barbalfc
tIniCs and a greater display is made
Of fine lace and arr embroidery.
But trimming will be used chiefly on
evening gowns and the thinner sum
els are decidedly simple and with one
new and striking feature-the skim
tight bodice. AT Monte Carlo. where
the forced styles are seen at their
earliest minute Of life, there has ap-
peared a certain type Of waist that re-
. sembles the ancient riding habit cor
sage. being carried up to the ears and
down to the wrists and moulded to the
figure is 1t the corsetiers who are
making this stand? No one can say
certainly. hut hera. the thing IS and IL
may take popular fancy after so long
a reign of loosely fitting waists.
Skirts are now being let severely
alone To repeat their present lines,
while the most stringent effort is be-
ing made Al Paris to bring out every
new feature for the waist that inge-
nuity can devise. One striking cor
sage worn at Monte Carlo had the
back all In one piece. fitted cunning
ly with underarm darts and the arm
holes plped. SO that the sleeves APP
peared TO be separate, giving the Of
feet. now much sought, OF a sleeveless
bodice.
I The skirt was merely a mass OF
swirled drapery, long. and full about
ankles. 1t is declared that skirts are
/ to be fuller. but let the home dress.
maker beware Of charging their lines
at the hem. Here they are certain
as scanty as during the winter.
The overlapping or milkmaid over
skirt is popular, both in cloth and
silk: but il lends itself better TO such
fabrics as wolfe and lawn. Silks anc
satins are the usual afternoon choice
still. but the morning promenades are
distinguished by the appearance Of the
strict tailormade suits only,
: Goats are either very long, with tn.
mic, or suite short and jaunty, after tbs
zouave style. Beer is using q sleeve
less Jacket. but other artists employ
THE SET in sleeve Boieros are not un-
common and the Russian blouse Ia no
Vet displaced after an Unprecedented
ascendancy. AT present 1T Is rather
lungraceful with It's waist line shirring
Only the tall slender woman shoulC
attempt to wear that modified style.
A suit that had a great success a
Longchamps recently was from tn,
hands of Cheruit 1t gave the frs
hint of the Russian blouse with tn,
long back and raised fronts, which
was instautaneously copied every
where. and is now used on many sprin!
3atG bat r.. a. }
ed, appears now the tight bodice. ant
whether we are to return TO the da,
of the basque and the moulded waist 4
& serious question.
Some of the prettiest waists havi
the swathed effect still, with man,
narrow bands of silk wrapped abou
the form, under the arms, and a sin
gle band Of silky stuff drawn over tn
shoulders. This is a style only appro
pirate for evening gowns, be II under
stood. The latest fad is the pointe,
waist the real, down dropped point O
Marie Antoinette 1t permits tn
pointed neck in a way allowed by NJ
turesdue. although the most uncom
Portable of all waists known to fashion
seekers. But what matters some dis
comfort, SO one is properly clothed Il
the latest approved style.
Naturally this corsage calls for tn
fShFbpih VI SiAt ONtAShtIA opening u
the front and sweeping train TO tn
underskrt. All these details go To
gether to give the correct Marie Antoi
nette costume. But 1t may be only
passing fancy, as it seems rather on
of harmony with the general trend o
the days modes.
IT has been sometimes said tina
women copy many of their odd fash
ions of dress from actresses, but
would be nearer the truth to say tina
the dressmakers copy the designs dis
, played on the stage and present Their
secondhand TO their patrons The
know that the newest gowns worn b
leading actresses represent the drear
of great artists. Every Partisan arts
first tries his new designs on som
leading lady of the theatrical profes
sion. 1t il the very best method nos
! sble of showing off to the utmost nd
, vantage what he means to launch upo
the public. In this way ii is said the
we owe the pannier TO the grace q
Mile. Provost. who wore 1t in the pla,
The Only Woman" so beautiful
! that every other woman was seize
with frenzy for 1t. We shall prob
ably have 1t with us this summer q
least.
, With velvet touches the French dc
signers are feeling the pulse of thei
clients In the matter of the Sleeveless
coat. There are not so many put OF
iyet, but ii lis to be remarked that thos
, belong to the costumes. most cherishe
, and showing, signs Of the most 90 ~,