The chronicle=news., 1913-04-09
FADS AND FASHIONS


charmeusc brOcnlc aud chiffon. taf-
fctu. crepe and Embroidered chiffon
are combined on the same gown. The
tight fitting lower skirt may be of
shepherds plaid serge with u draped
top OF black charmeusc. or u crepe
foundation may have nn Oycrdrapcr?
of printed silk and sleeves OF chiffon
or charmcuse In an entirely differ
ent color.
Prcmet taffc,a. II soft. chanrcpblc
SILK printed In tiny flowers. has sup
crsedcd the fOularsl. which has been
the popular spring material for many
seasons past, The printed and EN-
choice. The designs are large and
are outlined In black. and are seen
fon and silk crepe. Crepe dc Chine
and crcpons are printed. and many
OF them show u rough finish. Cal
lot has introduced u plain chiffon In
pastel tones. An irriticsccnt. MORE
taffeta plays u conspicuous part In
the materials for the afternoon mod
els.
Iiodiccs arc transparent In man!
instances all white. Blouse and bo-
icro are both good style aud their sf-
feet Is youthful. Frequently waist
and sleeve are Que. The kimono
sleeve aud dropped shoulder seam l.,
stili much used. also the bishop
sleeve shirred In tightly ut the wrist
with frills ot lace or tmlic ut the
hand.
Balkan buttons are II novelty. They
fnr Las .1.,s1 H., as..i,
costumes. Collars resembling the
Elixabcthan ruff are new. They arc
high at tho back and roll Into rcycrs
In the front. All OF the afternoon
or thcatcr GOWNS have u semi i-dccoi-
l.,tc neck. round or v-shapcd. Few
trains nrc shown In this Informal
frock. Almost without exception
these models arc siashcd and an IL
Msion pcttIeoat may he worn.
Sashcs are au interesting feature.
They are applied In every manner.
drapcd on the waist line or about the
hips. They hang from the shoulder.
cross In the back and fall In a knot
over the left hip. The treatment of
the sash ranges from the scvcrcsi
bands to the softcst folds. and II
may be u mere piping cncirciing tn.
waist or II may extend to the arm
pits.
Evening gowns this spring. though
lighter In tone and less barbnric In
character than formerly, are Just NJ
elaborate us ever. The simpi. little
gown Is no more. except for the
dance frock. COlorr are varied In
one fabric and several fabrics. differ
Ing In color and design aud combined
In one garment: lace Of every con
ceivable kind and material Is used
as trimming. BrOcade Ii still In
high favor. all the wcll-known ma
tcrials and new Ones being ma,ic In
brocudc designs, Charmeusc. r,ctcor
crepe de Chine. Canton crepe. moirc
lowered chiffon. satin and plSaIn
chiffon are the materials most used
Colors ARE varied and rnthcr bold
Apricot, geranium. American Beau.
~ and paprika are takiuS the place
OF the deeper reds, There are many
OF the metallic hucs. like ubsinthc.
which Is at present very smart. sui
phur. beige. brass. gold and an unat-
tractivc shade OF mustard color. The
greens are very vivid and the blues
very soft and almost dull In tone.
This is essentially u color period al
though black and white Is always In
demand. Sometimes u touch Of black
or very dark green appears as "a con.
trnsting note to give character To II
gown OF color.
Laccs OF soft texture. also those OF
gold and silver thread. nets. beaded.
embroidered aud buigcd, artificial
flowers. fcstoOns OF French ribbon
and chiffon roscbuls. crystal band
ing and velvet ribbons are the nc
ccpted materials for trimming.
Drapery Is II feature Of all the
gowns and is very beautiful. that
following the diagonal lines being
most uscd. Trains OF different
shapes and lengths are stili u part of
the conventional dinner gown The
newest train Is cut square. although
there are also many pointed trains.
Dumay has Invented an ingenious
way of hooking up the train when
so that II seems naturally
drapcd in u cascade effect, as II part
of the gown. The old method OF
having loop on the end OF til.
train. which must be held on the fin
ger. Is both ugly and troublesome.
Once upon time the sleeve ruled
the world of fashion: today IL is ig-
nored. The sleeveless gown or wrap
80 "pon'h VI. "hitu HutSnS tuHt u u
piece OF lace or drapcry somewhere
in the. vicinity OF the shoulder should
resemble II sleeve 1t is accepted as
such, but trouble is not even taken
to make the two sleeves OF the same
gown alike. Often enough one arm
boasts OF u sleeve while the other
has none.
Scarfs with ends banded with
wide printed borders in Bulgarian
colors and designs give an interest
ing touch of color to the light or
white evening frock. One OF deep
golden yellow shows "a design blocked
in suuares. crescents. circles and dots
In clear green. red. blue. black and
white. a black scarf shows II simil-
ar design printed in blue. red and
white. Rich red and i.rh, and WV
Id shade of green form the founda-
tion colors for other scarfs which are
bordered with contrasting designs.
Sashes i'm red green black white