Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-06

last In its original state, but she was
clever enough to convert it into an ac-
ceptable form Of trimming the hip, and to
her is the credit due for the entire change
of silhouette which is now accepted by
the fashionable world, widening OF the
figure between the hips and knees and
slender tapering of to the neck and the
ankles.
She is not responsible however for the
new idea of a loose and sagging blouse.
for she has held out for the slim bodice
to accentuate the width below the waist
And, by the way, one feature of the new
coats that I neglected to put under the
proper heading is a strong tendency to
sag over the waist line, which is caused
by the fullness hanging from the Shout
ders
This kind of coat has peplum, usual
ly fitted to the hips. which makes no pre-
tense of meeting in front. Sometimes it
turns over on itself in back or in front
to show facings of a brilliant capist silk
The fundamentals in skirts. which PROB
ably should have been said at the out
set, are narrowness at the hem, fullness
from waist to knees and shortncss.
The exceedingly short skirt for walk
ing is not here: ankle length is correct.
The afternoon and evening skirts fall TO
the instep, and when there is train 1t is
a square affair usually separated from the
hem in a manner not always graceful.
The narrow pointed train that twisted
itself into a string and Topped around
after it's wearer for all the world like a
clown seal hopping after its trainer. is
not fashionable In it's place is a weight
ed train, square at the corners.
Accordion pleated skirts find favor for
all the hours. They are used for street
wear In solid colors, with short coats OF
plaid or stripes. Or Of cloth to match,
with vivid collar and cuffs AS Scotch
tartans are very much in favor one can
achieve a good contrast to somber suit
with silk in this design.
II the pleats are not becoming over the
hips. then the hip yoke is brought into
play. It may be regular. or it may dip
dewn at the left side in imitation of the
new short tunic.
The latter by the way, stands out at
least three inches from the lower skirt
by virtue Of it's cut and the stiffness OF
the fabric, and not by whalebones. You
remember how amused we were by the
so-called lamp-shade skirt of Paul Poiret.
which was exhibited in America? Well.
this new and accepted tunic is a modified
version of the original Many OF the &c
centricities in fashion are not intended
to be considered as permanent by their
designers. They are as thunderstorms
which change the weather.
When you have decided on one or many
suits there comes the anxiety OF blouses.
made? TO assist you in decision. here are
the fashions that govern them:
To begin at the beginning. nothing
seems farther away from the minds of
the designers than to match a blouse to
a suit. Safety for the ordinary mortal
who may not have acquired color sense
| through the long years Of black and
white and pastel shades is in the fact
that white and cream blouses are emf
| nently correct. They are really in the
majority everywhere. No matter wheth-
| err the suit is a mannish one for street
use or an elaborate one for afternoon
| wear, the blouse is in shade OF white.
| or and mark this well. an entirely diff
| ferent color, probably red.
| This latter fashion shows the influence
of the futurist movement in colors, which
has spread to clothes. but is so closely
| allied to the orient that one need not
! puzzle about what it means
In one-piece frocks this fashion does
not prevail. There one has a blouse to
match in color if not in fabric.
| The thin white blouses worn with suits
are exquistely lovely and in a different
world from that in which lives the ordi-
| nary white blouse. The foundation Is OF
net or chiffon and the covering Is of lace,
usually in wide fiounces that are draped
! over the shoulders ana IN cascades DOWN
| the front. The sleeves reach an inch or
two below the elbow. and the neck Is high
! at the back and rolling loose and open
| in front. Such blouse in ivory lace is
| very attractive.
| X y
There are palmer blouses in white wash
net of fine quality made entirely plain
with small fiat tucks. These have no
drapery and are not in the least compli-
| Gated. The tucks cover the surface from
waist to neck and from wrist to shoulder.
and the collar is straight and high or
rolling from an inch neckband to a point
| in front.
| One must be faultlessly arranged be-
meath, and to assist in this the shops Of
| fer a new kind of corset cover made of
net or chiffon cloth trimmed with chiffon
or satin roses.
One thing should be kept in mind That
the "V' shaped line is abandoned in the
back of blouses, although it dominates