Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1913-10-17
LOOSE MANTLE
IS PARTISAN IDEA
Favored Because Il Lends Itself
to Most Graceful Folds
About the Figure.
MUST Be FITTED WITH SKILL
Clever Woman viii Have Little OH.
ficuity With Attractive Garment
Sketch Shows New and Pop
ular Style Of Dressing the
HAIR

nculty with Attractive Garment
Sketch Shows New and Pop
ular Style Of Dressing the
Hair.
Paris.-l have recently seen
mantle in Paquin model and very
fascinating in material as in design.
writes Idalia de Villiers In the Boston
Globe. The high collar OF white fox
makes an ideal frame for pretty face
and the material used in the con-
struction of this particular mantle was
SO pliable and soft that 1t folded 1t.
self naturally about the figure.
There Is deep fringe circling the
hips, or perhaps l ought to say. in
dicating the long waist line.
The upper portion of the mantle is
absolutely loose and vague" The
success Of the garment and of all
such garments. depends upon how
1t is put on and how it is fastened.
Some Of our Parisiennes are spe-
cially clever in this respect. They
have little way of gathering these
loose nantes about them and OF.
carelessly, producing most enchanting
folds and curves In some cases the
cloaks are fastened with handsome
clasps of precious stones or OF cut Jet
trimmed with paste. Other models
have no visible fastening, and these
are cleverly drawn around the figure
and held together with the left hand.
High Collar Much in Evidence.
The high collar will be very popular
all during the winter season. 1t is
built on the same lines as the Medicis
collar, and it Is as becoming as it
is practical.
In the head sketch this week have
shown the new style OF hairdressing
which is now SO popular In Paris, the
loose, natural waves and headdresses
of uncurled feathers.
On the full-face head have shown
curious but very charming eve
ming headdress composed Of two
rather small paradise plumes. These
plumes are attached in the middle by
small velvet bow, and they curl out
at either side after the manner OF
horns.
These modified paradise plumes are
very popular in Paris this autumn;
they are to be had in many different
colors. but the most effective and ele-
CANT are those in black or in the
natural tint Of golden yellow.
Metallic feathers and wings are be-
ing freely used in the construction Of
autumn and winter millinery models.
The most lovely colors are produced.
but of these the more beautiful are
the various combinations of blues
| and greens, tipped with silver.
Metallic Laces.
! Metallic laces are also fashionable
just now and these look exceedingly
we'll when outlined with narrow bands
| of sable or skunk. These laces are
as rule of the Venetian guipure
order and the bold patterns are
worked over with metallic silks; in
this way very curious effects are OBJ
| tanned and these are sometimes hight
ened by the introduction of tiny porce-
laine beads in delicate parts Of the
scrolls or floral outlines.
While visiting San Sebastian quite
recently | had the pleasure of in
speeding some ideally lovely tea
gowns which had just been sent down
from Paris for the beautiful young
Spanish queen. Both King Alfonso
| and his wife have passed great part
of the summer ct Santander. The
| king is specially fond of San Sebas-
tian, but he recognizes the fact that
his subjects in other parts of Spain
have a great claim on him.
He has therefore become possessed
of a lovely royal residence at San.
lander and his presence there has at
ers.
Royalty Attracts Crowds.
At the end OF August, however. the
king and queen came into residence
at San Sabestian and they will remain
at the Palais Miranlar until the end of
September, perhaps even longer.
The queen is looking very lovely
this season. She has become slighter
than she was last year and this suits
her. Her coloring was always lovely,
but l never remember having seen
her look so fresh and pretty as this
year. She is very fond of wearing
white or white and pale blue in the
summer. And In her dainty white
muslin and linen dresses she looks
little more than a girl.
Amongst the tea gowns to which |
have Just alluded there was one in
the finest white Indian muslin | have
ever seen. This material was so thin
that 1t seemed absolutely transparent,
aud 1t fell into the most artistic folds
is is possible to imagine.
With the Newest Ideas.
The gown was mounted over an
underdress Of pure white washing
silk, and at the hem there were sew.
eral gathered flounces trimmed with
insertions and edgings of real valen
ctennes lace. The corsage was fash.
toned in kimono style. and there was
large fichu entirely made of valen.
ciennes of the finest quality.
! At the waist there was a broad sash
OF pale heliotrope satin, of specially
supple texture, and this sash was
worked over at the ends with Chinese
! .0-~~~~-~-~~~~~~~~~
/, Women In FlnIand's Diet.
| There are twenty-one women II
the diet, or parliament, OF Finland
elected in 1918, who will hold office