davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25

hats clouded by a veil of chiffon, ana
carry elabcrately embroidered parasois
before the noon hour. while at Newport,
across the bay, they are govned in the
simplest OF linon tub frocls. or the con-
yentional linen or cotton corduroy skirt
and sheer white shlrtwaist. AT some Of
the smaller summer resorts the pretty
fiowered lawns and muslins Will be worn
In the Afternoon and on hot evenings. and
the bride would do well 10 select several.
The h-ide should not overlook the <~'-
viceable afteSloon gowns Of CGhton crepe
charmeuse. hower>d silk or hfeta. Here
again the prettiest ffockS are the Simplest
The draped skirt and a plain little ooclce.
ornamented by yestee OF tulle and
fr!ll or collar OF lace. staLding proudly
cree, in the back. like the Medici collar
make up a simple. but very smart. SILK
costume for luncheon, afternoon teas anu
the dozen and one social functions Wnere
gown Of this kind is in demand. II
more dressy effect is desired the waist
should be made transparent. or as nearly
60 as the law of the land viii permit
Hand embroidery and lace are combined
with net To give the desired cachet TO
frocks Of this type.
For tea AT the country club there is
delightful costume which is sure TO capt
ure the heart of the brde-elect. II con-
sists OF skirt OF Powered crepe, with
piquant. saucy coatee or bolero OF taneta'
matching in tone one OF the flowers in the
creme. The new cotton velvet. which IS
not velvet at all. but a cotton fabric close
~ resembling velvet is also adapted with
great success for these coates, and is par
ticularly lovely IN tie radiant tones
canary. Neapolitan blue, Nell rose and
shell pink.
The lingerie frock OF muslin is being re-
placed to large extent by gowns OF net
and chiffon. As net is more serviceable
than handkerchief muslin il is a more
practical choice for the summer frock
that must resist wear and tear. while
chiffon is decidedly more dressy than mus
lin, and can be- worn on formal occasions
when a lingerie dress Of muslin would be
considered a wash frock and, therefore,
not appropriate
When ordering her evening gowns the
canny little bride-elect will remember that
they must De Nlue enouSH " Pcti"'e ""
indulgence in the one-step or the tango
The demand for width in the dancing
skirts is slowly creating a wider under
skirt. All the increase in width up TO
the present time has come In the over
draperies and the underskirt, or founda-
ton. has remained straight, narrow ana
clinging But it is ''on with the dance"
and one cannot dance in these very re-
stricted underskirts. hence fulness Is be-
ing introduced. slowly. so that the trans
ition may be an easy one. and so dis
| creetly that the change is almost imper-
ceptible, yet the width is there. Gowns OF
satin. with pleated fiounces of net or of
lace. and very long bodices OF lace. joined
by wide sash. will be worn by the June
brides.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
HAN DWORK.

The tendency in the most expensy. ,
derdress is toward dainty and simpl.
fects. exquisite handwork, very an. q,
webby laces and the best Of mater,
The details in the hand embroidery !,
worked out in a remarkable name,
medallion. for instances. will have a,
set OF lace in the centre. matching
edging OF lace on the gown, and tn. )
broidery will continue the design 0, /
lace. All these details add, OF cour,
the price. but they are far more appel,
10 the mother of the bride than quant1
OF cheap lace. The same dainty e.
can be procured for less money |,
simple hand hemstitched lingerie ".
is more serviceable than the overtIn,
lace underdress.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
NET AND CHIFFON

The outfits OF net and chiffon =.
and diaphanous as they NAV \. ~
not as extravagant as they ses,, y
at first. Both materials, II ~
quality. will wash nicely with II
care, and will wear almost as ~
the fine handkerchief linen. ybi,.
attracted brides for many Years j
add practically no bulk under IN. y
ing costumes, and yet they pleas.
woman who does not care TO car j
all underdress. Their Usefulness 4. j
fined to the combinations and ps,,L.
and cache corsets. Under a fina NJ.
or net frock a combination Of pas D
chiffon, with trimmings Of lace. 1. y
dainty and very attractive. This !,
true OF the petticoats and cache o,.1
Of net. The petticoats are sImnl. }
a narrow fiounce headed by a cas,,, i
the material. through which rihs.
drawn and tied in a fat pump bow
founce may be Of lace. a soft Ar. u
such as shadow or Valenciennes. ars
toons Of flowers may be added III.
ter are losing favor with fasho,l
women since their appearance on III.
mestic underdress. The cache corset,
equally simple; some are made ot
over lace. others from net with br,
tucks.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
"NiGHTIES."

Several styles of nightgowns miy
selected by the June bride. The nsr1
gowns have the cape sleeves, which 4
have in addition undersleeyes Of ng
lace TO puff over the elbows. The 4
who fancies the long lines Of the ErzI
gowns will find plenty Of designs u
which TO make a selection. The new d
have very broad sashes or girdles Of y
ribbon 10 mark the raised waistline 4
are finished with a yoke and sleeya
fine thread lace; others have apparel
lost their sleeves-an omission that
not be missed during the summer 0a|
the most noticeable features OF The 4
gowns is the trimming in the back
very pretty gown of the finest Fr,-
batiste has the yoke tucked in fns !
tucks both in front and in back, and V
wide real lace insertion extending 4
shoulder TO hem in back as well a
front
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
SlASHED CHEMlSES'

The brides who are slender eh'"
adopt the chemise have a pleasA''
prise in store for them In the W"
new French chemise with slashe'
The garment is Just about 'ns
length as the ordinary chemise' "
stead OF the hem it is slit at 'n'
and tie bottom is finished with n'".
broidery. The Empire waistline Is =.
by a wide girdle Of satin ribbon y
70 the idea shown on the night ro0'
All OF the brides underiress sly.
marked by her monogram. and so"'
clever effects are now worked ouI
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
WEDDING DAY.

To wear on her wedding day me
selected a combination OF white
After much deliberation she cn0s
princess corset cover and short q"
trimmed with medallions OF Clun
The shape of this garment was no'
other cuts nor was the trimming dA'
but the string OF pearls over tne
ders. in place OF the customary >
straps. gave the requisite finish.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
sEAsONABLE BRIDAL GOWN.

The frocks of these sheer materials are
very seasonable. and suggest comfort
that was entirely lacking in the gowns OF
white satin. with high choker collars ana
long satin sleeves, under which the
bride of a few years ago sweltered on
hot June day The 1918 bride can be as
cool and comfortable as any OF her
guests. for the high collars have grad
uallv been lowered until the gowns are
frankly decollete. The sleeves reach onlY
10 the elbow. or. if long, are fashioned
from chiffon. Other important style feat-
ures have been adapted to the wedding
gown with equally telling results.
The vogue for combinations OF ma
terials is displayed on many gowns III
which lace, chiffon and satin are cleNerlH
combined. Very often this collection Ol
materials is increased by a train OF Droche
erk sometimes embroidered with silver OF
gold threads. This train may hang from
the shoulders in the picturesque NaItedu
stvle. or 1t may take on sashhKe enec''
srreading in two points like ends oi
very wide sash: again II may he loIiheu
nv the drapings of the skirt. The tralh Oh
the gown in the sketch falls from beneath
the fiat pump bow and is laid IN TWO loius
on either side. 1t may be well for the
bride who has chosen husband Of sfhaii
stature 10 remember that II is not WISE
.o choose a train of extreme length. some
Of the trains are plain. the folds oi 'he
draped chiffon or lace adding rippiihe'
billowv appearance that is sufhcienuy
decorative. while other are edged with 'he
vaxv orange blossoms or ruchins OF lace
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
CONTRASTING TRIMMINGS

Another novelty is the nightsoTz
combination. showing contrasting .,a
In trimming. On a fetching nigh. ro':
pink crepe de chine one side OF The z
was tucked in diagonal lines viii
insertion and the other was naGs
tirely OF lace. The effect was 50
dressy that one little bride pronrN
nounced her intention OF using ne =
for a saut de lii 10 slip over her y
dress in the boudoir.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
TWo-PIEcE COMBINATIONS

The same bride favored the rev
piece combinations. The skirt
model she chose was Of point ds1
generously trimmed with BoheHiai /
At the knee wide satin ribbon WI
through castings OF the material az
ished in the fiat tailored bow. Tn =
following the kimono lines, hung
as the knees. and a ruching OF "
terial softened the "V' neck and u
the short kimono sleeves. 4 slniG !.
ment In pink crepe de chine, e1csF
the neck was square instead o.
shaped, was added 10 the brides q
t,Ap
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
COSTUMES. FOB JUNE 'WEDDlNG}
Net, Chiffon and CreD.
Chine Are Favoriite FL
rics for the Bride,
Lingerie.

The June bride has a difficult g..
fore her when she begins 10 s.'.
lingerie, for there has never be.r
son when the various underdrs.'
ments were as luxurious as tbsv
day. What would the bride Of s- ~
ton ago have thought If the salssr'
had placed before her an outfit q, ,s'
or net? In those days lingerie :.
was considered an extravaganca =.
bride Of to-day selects crepe AZ !.
satin and China silk underyes, =.
mother chose underwear Of musll,
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
Frocks for the Summer Bridal
Party Are Made Of
Sheer, Seasonable
Fabrics.

The heavy white satins decreed by con-
vention for the brides wedding rooes
have been replaced by the sheerest OF
fabrics-soft silks, chifons and laces'
There is nothing stiff nor hard in the
Wedding gown for the June bride. II Is
alluringly soft and filmy and airy. almost
ephemeral in character. The softenlng
effect of quantities of lace and chiffon Is
universally becoming: the general style
of the gown lends the necessary amount
Of dignity, and the draperies of lace ana
chiffon give an appearance of grace ana
youthfulncss that is altogether charming
For the foundation of the gown soft
silk may be chosen-a charmeuse. crepe
meteor. or even messaline-if the expense
must be carefully considered This III
turn is veied with chiffon. Very often
a pale flush pink chiffon is preferred to
take away the severity of all white, and
over this is hung the tunic of lace. en-
brcidered chiffon or very supple rlch
silk. The different veilings blend into
each other. giving a delightfully."- SOFT
light effect that is distinctly bridelike.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
SUGGESTION OF sLAsHlNe.

The brides who delight in ultra s'yies
ore ordering skirts with a suggestion ol
sIosbinq. even the more daring. however
On not care 10 defy tradition to the extent
nj wearing a decided slit. The sKlrts Win
drapery brought up TO the waist llne' mus
leaving rounded corners in the 'front.' VI
sl,irts with the drapery at either slue -
The front caught up with clusters
- hloeeons. are very well liked. me
,rohlam has been solved in the skirt oi
,ba GOWN in the sketch by hitihs wv
-, suphtlv on either side, as II II hdu
-, n,,lled I'D by tie folds. The drapeIy
-, tbis skirt is heartily commended 10 tic
lido u,ho desires TO add TO her heisH''
for the straight line Of the iroi'' - ~.
b~oken. When a genuine sla5heu eiie0'
desired an underskirt OF lace NUTS '''0
white stockinged ankle.
wide latitude is permitted tins season
IN the draping of skirt and waist. lhere
Is still a demand fol the draperies carry
ING the fulness 10 a point between 'he
hin and the knee. but the effect Is not
becoming TO short girl or one lnchhed l"
stoutness. such a one may be aldeo III
getting the long lines she requires ny 'he
1ovelv pearl carnitures which fall IN long
chains There was a time when a bride
,,,oul6 hesitate TO wear pearls. believing
that she would have 10 pay for them III
tears. but all this superstition mas peeh
banished by the practical. common sense
Girl Of to-day, and pearls, both the gen.
line seed peerls and the garnitures. are
popular trimmings for the bridal gown.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
MUCH LACE USED.

OF all trimmings lace is the most pe-
coming and the most in demand. \ gown
of chiffon ornamented with lace is al
most as appealing as one entirely fash-
ioAcl from lace, and laces of every de-
scription are used. In fact, the knowing
dressmaker does not hesitate TO combine
Two and even three kinds of lace on the
wedding frock. There are innumeraoie
wavs of using the lace. 1t may be In the
form OF a flounce. over which the chiffon
or silk is draped ii may act as TINS
over-drapery, falling over an undersKirt
OF satin or OF pleated chiffon; 1t may
simulate a yoke. or again it may be
confined entirely 10 the waist. as mas
been done in the gown of the sketch.
on the bridal gown shown the lace
forms the Medici collar. the narrow re-
vers and the long angel sleeves. The
Medici collar by the way. is one Of the
delights of the June bride, and from
present indications nine out of ten brides
will wear them. Some are soft little
more than frills. and fall in natural
unrestrained fashion; others are wired 10
stand out like the queen Elizabeth ruche.
New-York tribune., 1913-05-25
oRT.WAlsTED coRsAGE.

Berthas and capes Of lace can be ad-
justed in a charming manner TO the little.
short-waisted corsage. which is as much
in vogue as II ever was. Fichus Of lace
and OF chiffon add dainty trimmings and
make 1t possible to get excellent results
with a small expenditure Of money. For
instance. on one of the recent bridal
gowns a fichu OF chiffonl edged with
Arizona republican., 1913-08-17
Motorcycle Club Trips

An unusual number of goodfellow- ship and reliability runs have been staged by motorcycle clubs this sum mer. The weekend run to some neighbOring point of interest, in com panY with companions and with a good dinner at the end of the journey. proves a real outing to those whose business keeps them indoors during the day.
 recent outing greatly enjoyed by the riders was that of the Indian apolis Motorcycle club. Sixty-f five members of the club rode to Martins vile where they were entertained with a chicken dinner at the MartinsviiIe Sanitarium hotel. A very pleasant motorcycle picnic was recently heId by the sixty members of the Union City Motorcycle club. The picnicers rode to the banks of the Mississinewa where lunch was spread. The event was such a success that the club is planning a run to ohio towns in the near future
 Arrangements are practically com plete for the largest club run ever held in the state of New York. About 200 riders in and around Buffalo are expected to take part in the run, which will be to Pipes Creek Inn. The riders will spend the day in play : ing ball, racing and other sports. Tine Portland (Ore) Motorcycle club has also planned a number of club runs. the longest being a 200-mile endurance run to Corvallis, which will be held in the near future. blind" run has been announced by the New Britain (Conn.) Motorcycle club No one ex- cept the leader knows the destina tion but the riders are assured of a good time and bOuntiful repast
Arizona republican., 1913-08-17

Annual tournament Of Wisconsin Women's Golf association opens at Lacrosse.
 Annual tournament of National Archery association opens at Cam bridge, Mass.
 Annual tournament of Manitoba Lawn Bowling association opens at Winnipeg.
 Wednesday Meeting of the International Anna teur Athletic Federation opens in Der lin.
 Thursday Big athletic meet Of the Greater New York fair and exposition at Elm piEe City park.
 Tempe vs. Phoenix at Phoenix; Mesa vs. Maroons at Mesa Friday
 Jess Willard vs. Bull" Young, 20 rounds, at Vernon, Cal. Jack C'Twin') Sullivan vs. Soldier Kearns, 10 rounds. at Buffalo. N. Y Tommy McCarty vs Pete Daley, 10 rounds at Phoenix.
 Saturday Southern Maine championship ten his tournament opens at Squirrel Isl- and. Me.
 North Central States championship tennis tournament opens at Chicago. Allegheny county championship ten his tournament opens in Pittsburg.
Arizona republican., 1913-08-17
Why Not Stop
 Drinking

Men and women who drink regu larly and excessively cannot answer this question When they realize they are slaves to the appetite for alcholic liquors they wish to stop, but find they cannot. They do not understand they are being daily poisoned with alcohol, until the cray ing for it has become stronger than the will power to resist. The only hope for these unfortunate men and women is proper medical treatment the Neal Treatment, which is a safe, sure, vegetable remedy that re- moves the craving and necessity for drink in three days, without the use of hypodermic injections. The Neal Drink Habit Treatment will quickly make you sober men and women. Come to the Neal Institute 1537 West Jefferson street, Phoenix, Arizona, or send for the Neal Home Treatment and become master of yourselves. Call and investigate. Get our proof and references, or write or phone for book of information. Phone 1733.
 DRUG HABIT SUCCESSFULLY TREATED
Arizona republican., 1913-08-17
MAY BE H0P
 FIELD SLAYER
Police Have in Custody Man Who Answers Description of One Wanted in Con nection With a Riot at Wheatland, Cal.

In the booking early yesterday morn ing at the police station, of man giv ing the name of James Taylor and his home as California, the police feel more or less certain they have appre- hended one of the men sought in con nection with the murder of District At torney E. T. Maxwell, of Tuba county, California, and two deputies, Of the party which was enjtIVorinE to queii riot in the Durst hop fields at Wheat land on Sunday, August g. In prac- tically every respect Taylor Corre- spends to the description given in the circulars received from the sheriff of Yuba county, asking for the appre hension of man familiarly known as Shorty and :'Rlsckie."
 It was about two or three o'clock yesterday morning that Policeman Va lenzuela brought Taylor and another man in and boked them for beds They had been found sleeping in a box car in the Southern Pacific yards and Were unable to give a good account of themselves. When the men were lined up yesterday morning before Chief of Police Moore he was immediately i'm pressed with the appearance of the man giving the nam eof Taylor.
 Without acquainting the man with his suspicious. Chief Moore questioned him closely and made comparisons with the description in the circular Policeman Vadder made several photo graphs of the man and these with the information the chief had secured will today be sent to the sheriff of Yuba county
 In talking with Taylor yesterday, he admitted having been in California very recently but denied having been in Tuba county. He also claims to be only 23 years old, but he has every appearance of man nearer 30 years old and about the age given in the E circular. He will be held until word is received from the California officers
Arizona republican., 1913-08-17
NEW GARAGE WILL BE
 BUILT HERE IN 50 DAYS
Cadillac People to Have One to be
 Bossed by w. A. Horreil.

A new garage is planned for Phoe- nix, this one to be dedicated to the spread of the knowledge and useful to be managed by w A. Horrelf. ten his expert and automobile sharp eS- traordnary It is promised that this garage will be ready for occupancy within sixty days. Incidentally en- tirely to the new garage there is q carload of brand new Cadillac cars and they are now being accommodat- ed in the temporary sales rooms at 229 East Adams street.
 The Cadillac auto for the 1914 new model is promised to be surpriser in the automobile line. It contains so many new features that the fac tory has already had many orders for the machines over and above what they expected to get on the first an nouncement.
 One of the features of the car is the new two speed direct drive axle. This axle has a two bevel pinion and two bevel driving gear thus afford ing two different gear ratios, each driving direct from the engine to the axle without the necessity of an in- term ediate gearing. The change from one gear to another is made by means of a simple convenient switch.
 Great increase, in car speed in re- Iation to the engine speed is made possible by this new attachment, and friction is materially reduced. How ever. Horrell says he is in shape to make the new changes in automo-
Arizona republican., 1913-08-17
SPORT CALENDAR
 ] FOR COMING WEEK
Monday

National championship tennis tour nansent opens at Newport, R. I.
 Central West championship tennis tournament mixed doublesj. opens at Kansas City.
 Alberta provincial championship tennis tournament opens at Edmon- ton, Alberta.
 Pacific Coast circuit race meeting opens at San Jose, Cal
 Annual tournament of Western Chess association opens at Chicago. Annual tournament of New York Slate Chess association opens at Schenectady
 Tuesday
 tGrand Circuit race meeting opens at Rockingham Park, Salem. N. H. iGreat Western Circuit race meet iag opens at Galesburg, III, Michigan Short ship" Circuit race meeting opens at Jackson, Mich. Annual polo tournament for the Grenfell cup opens at Montreal.
Arizona republican., 1913-08-17
PLAYS AND PLAYERS

The plans of the Shuberts for the coming theatrical season include a farewell engagement of Forbes Rob ertson, Sothern and MarlOwe sea- son and number of productions by William Faversham There is also an interesting list Of plays by Am4ri- can authors and a large number of fattractive musical shows. The ap- pearance of Forbes Robertson will be the inaugural attraction at the new Shubert theater in New York Ind among the plays to be given will De The Passing of the Third Floor Back, The Light That Failed" Caesar and Cleopatra and several Shakespearean dramas. Sothern and Marlowe will present eight of Shakes peare's plays and William Faver- sham will start his tour with Julius Caesar" following it about Christ mas time with "Othello" and Romeo and Juliet" William Hodge will ap- pear in The Road to Happiness" Other productions of note will be Children of Today in which Louis Mann and Emily Ann Wellman will star; Her Sons Wife" with Bertha Kalich; "Suttee." a new play by Guy
 Bolton; At Bay in which Guy Standing and Chrystal Herne will
 
 The Ride to Hell" 'Lieber Angus tin which will be the first of the
 important musical productions. with
 De Wolf Hopper and George Mac
 Farlane in the leading parts and
 new musical play, entitled, "Oh l
 Say" which is no win rehearsal.
 Fuller Melish has been engaged for Margaret Anglin's company.
 George c. Tyler, of the Liebler company, has been motoring in Ire land.
 It is said that Kitty Cheatam is to enter vaudeville the coming season.
 Sophie Tucker is shortly to appear in new play entitled "A Broadway
 Honeym oon.'
 Maude Adams will begin her sea son about the middle of the present month in Peter Pan'
 Fritz Williams will be in the cast of "The Amazons'' when Billie Burke opens in that play.
 Donald Brian, in ''The Marriage Market" will act a cowboy, sailor and a newspaper reporter
 Mary Mallon will be the leading woman in The Silver Wedding" III which Thomas A. Wise is to star. Fred Leslie, the English comedian. will play in Princess Caprice" un- der the management of the ShubeftS- 1 KIaw x Erlanger will produce later lin the season a drama called Marie l Claire" by A. F. Thomas, author of 'The Rainbow"
 production of the coming season will be The Envous Butterfly in which the characters are modern Chi tnese identified with the new republic. E Bayard Vellier's new play, .""The | Fight" will have it's opening perform : l ance in New York the middle of Sep | tember. Margaret Wycherley wlll | have the leading part l Blanche Bates is to appear in | playlet by J. M. Barrie called Half an Hour" which will be presented in tconjunction with "The Younger Gen. eration, by Stanley Houghton. | George Tyler has announced that be has engaged Arnold Daly to play the leading part in New York in Gen. Sir John Began" when that Iplay is to be produced in the fall. When the seventy vaudeville the aters and motion picture halls now in progress of construction are com pleted this fall. Philadelphia will have nearly $50 places of amusement. not lcounting the legitimate theaters.