davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16
CHILE ACCEPTS.

Santiago, Chile, March 15.-It was
announced today that the Chilean
government had accepted the invita-
ton of the United States to take part
in the Panama-Pacific exposition at
san Francisco. A committee 70 take
of the arrangements in Amer
lea has been nominated at Washing
ton and a local committee selected to
deal directly with the exhibitors
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16
Man in the Moon Governs Easter

everybody would have to make all
these calculations, and many others
that We have not mentioned, for him
self in order to find out the date Of
Easter, and it is safe to say that, in
that case, it would be still more .mov-
able" than it actually is.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16
FOR BRITISH ARMY.

London, March 15.-Thc estimated
amount which the house Of commons
is to be asked to appropriate this year
for expenditure on the British army
Is Sill, 100, 900, against l39,3oO,oOn
last year. The sum of $l,17O,000 is to
hc devoted to aviation.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16
(l3y Garrett p. Serviss.D

khN 'tit'I - WV iH9'f
The Great Christian festival OF tIas-
tor, making the anniversary Of the
resurrection of Christ, falls this year
within ono day Of its earliest possible
date. 1t comes on Sunday, March 23.
Last year it fell on Sunday, April T.
Some years it occurs several weeks
later still.
All other anniversaries. except Ias~
ter, and the holy days associated with
1t, fall on a fixed day Of each year,
and people who are not familiar with
what is called The ecclesiastical cal
cndar arc often greatly puzzled to ac-
count for the wandering of this
great festival, whose extreme dates
may be as much AS five weeks apart.
A late Easter has more flowers and
more sunshine; an early one, like
that of the present year, sometimes
feels the last chill Of the departed
winter.
The primary reason for the variable
date Of Easter is the fact that ii Is
the only great festival in Christian
countries that depends directly upon
the monthly motion Of the moor At
the same time, it is affected by the
yearly motion of the sun, since its date
is governed by the Vernal equinox,
which is the point in the yea when
the sun crosses the equator from the
southern into the northern hemisphere.
Following First Full Moon.
But the year and the month are not
commensurate lengths of time-that is
to say, there is not an even number of
1p,ar ,t,,ytb. II, "a ,-IDT A lunar rf1ttt n
lis not the. same as Il calendar month.
but is represents the time from one
fun moon to the next, which is, on the
average, about % days, II hours, "A
minutes. A year, which Is measured
by the apparent motion Of the sun, Is
on the average 365 Ia days. Now this
can not be divided by the period of a
lunar month without a remainder. In
consequence. a full moor may ccur at
any time in the course of an ordinary
month
But the rule for finding the date of
Easter Is that it must fall upon the
Sunday Immediately following the first
full moon, which occurs on or after
March 81, which Is the regular date of
the equinox,
Last year the first full moon follow
ing the equinox happened on April /.
which was Il Monday. The mex follow
ing Sunday, April 7, was then. accord
ing to the rule, Easter day. This year
the full moon of the equinox, or the
paschal moon, as 1t is called in the
church calendar, falls on March %,
which is d Saturday, and the next day,
the 23d, being Sunday, becomes Easter
day.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16

mill town of Haua Maui, IT. H.. with
u shark hook towing astern of the
ship II using three pounds of salt
pork for bait. We had not proceeded
more han q mile and a half off shore
before we sighted a tiger shark fol-
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16
JAPAN'S BUDGET,

Toxic, March 15.-The JAPANESE diet
today adopted the government b,,agat
~ vote OIL 1876 to 1S1. The total or
on onnaly fesehne is estimated at $685.
ooo's-5 and the extraordinary revenue,
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16

celebrated as the anniversary of the
birth of Christ, comes nj a fixed date
every year, December IS, it would app
pear much simpler to keep Easter also
as near a fixed date as possible. 1t
could not he absolutely fixed because
of the settled custom of celebrating 1t
on "A Sunday, but, as the Astronomer
Clavius pointed ont centuries ago, II
reasonable degree of regularity could
be introduced by making Easter the
first Sunday after the equinox without
regard to the phase of the moon. If
that rule were adopted the date of
Easter would stIIl be- II movable one.
but it's WauderingS would be kept
Within a week of a fixed date.
The existing system of determining
the date of Easter is based upon "a dis
cpvery made more. than 400 years be
fore Christ by the Greek astronomer
Melton. He found that go lunar months
arc almost exactly equal in total length
to 10 years Of 3G5 IA days each. There
is a difference of only about two hours
il the course OF the - years. This
period is called the MotonIc Cycle,
and It's division into years gives rise
to the. Golden Numbers" which indi-
cate the place of any year in the cycle.
1t the beginning of the cycle, which,
as used in the ecclesiastical calendar,
is reckoned from January /. of the
year /, r.. c., a new moon happened
to fall on January !. Every 10 years
since then there has been n new moon
at the beginning of January, but dur
ing the. intermediate years of the cycle
rho first naU moan of tho pqnr ocrtr,
at different dates in January, when
are always the same for years occupy
ing the same place in the cycle. This
place is called the Golden Number, and
by its aid, through n somewhat com
plicated system Of computation, the
date of the pnschal moon can be cal
culated any number of years in ad-
vance.
Years Golden Number.
The Golden Number of any wear can
be found by adding / to the number
representing the year in ordinary no
tation, and then dividing the sum by
10, the remainder being the Golden
Number for that year. For instance
add | TO 1913, divide by 10, and the
quotient is 100, with Il remainder, and
this remainder is the Golden Number
of he year 1913. 1t shows that 1918
is the fourteenth year in a Metonic
Cycle, and that five years later there
will be. a new moon on January I. The
date of the first full moon of the year
being shown, it is easy to calculate
the dates of all the other new and
full moons that follow. The first new
moon of this ear occurred on Janu-
airy Z.
If it were not for the almanacs
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-03-16

$27,5 900. Against these the or
binary expenditures are $21l, geo, O00
and the extraordinary expenditures
are $Sl, 500, 600.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

have beer jumped into popularity and many exceedingly handsome costumes are trimmed with natural fitch, natural opossum and natural raccoon, for all of these skins show pretty, soft coloring and combine with the fashionable suit ings to give satisfactory results.
 In a general way, there is a tendency toward rough finished suitings but broad cloth, nevertheless, retains its own, serge and cheviot are much seen and coats and skirts of contra sting fabrics make a rather important feature of prevailing fashions. Tn the illustration, one costume of this kind is shown made of plain broadcloth over plaid and plaid broadcloths are won derfully beautiful. One of the Norfolk
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

As many women are asking for a coat design for their winter suits, I have selected a smart one for this lesson. There are several stylish skirts in this number with which to wear it.
 Here the coat was made of black broadcloth, the vest and collar of bright-hued novelty cloth, and the revers and cuffs of black panne velvet.
 There are ten pieces in this pattern: The front, the upper and lower portions of the back, the upper and under DOT tions of the sleeve, the cuff, the revers, the collar, and two portions of the vest.
 Diagram No. I shows the pattern laid out on the various materials, ready for cutting. Lay the edge of the upper portion of the back, the edge of the lower portion of the back, and the edge of the collar. all marked by three crosses on the lengthwise fold of the goods. The remaining pieces-the front, the upper and under portions of the sleeves, the two vest sections, the revers and the cuff must be laid on the length of the material with the line of large perfOrations straight. Be sure to allow three-eighths inch for all seams and clip the notches indi- cated. All pieces of the coat join by corresponding notches. Mark the seams clearly with pencil and dot the small Perforations. Cut out the lining the same as the coat.
 The next step is to take up the darts on the shoulder edges Of each front by bringing the corresponding Perfcra- tions together. Now you must face the revers with the satin lining revers. Lay the right side of the cloth and the right side of the lining together Take three-eighth inch seam around the unnotched edges-the top, the side and the lower edge; turn right side out and crease seam down neatly. Baste to keep smooth. First join the notched cloth edge to the front edge with the double notches meeting, then turn under the lining edge and finish neatly. thus covering the seam. Roll the revers back on the seams
 The back of the coat may be a bit puzzling to you. So I have given two diagrams that will show you clearly just how simple it really is to make. The diagram on the left shows the way that the seams are to be cut on the lower portion of the back. You see that in order to join the seams to the seams of the center back, they will
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

coats, double faced cloths are much liked. They require no lining and the reverse side makes effective trimming. The one illustrated can be rolled open just as shown on the figure or it can be buttoned up closely about the throat if the wind is sharp or the day is cold. All the coats hang in straight lines from the shoulders but are narrow in effect and snug about the hips.
 Muffs are big and ample. handsome as we'll as warm and cosy. Fur, of course, is always beautiful but there are a great many muffs to be seen made of silk, velvet or even suiting materials, trimmed with fur, and practical women are sure to be glad of such suggestions. The flat muffs are very simple and easy to make and they add largely to the effect of the costume.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14
FOR THE HOME NEEDLE WOMEN
DIRECTIOf@S FOR EMBROIDERING SPRAYS OF SMALL
 DAISIES AND CEIEMISE-

No. 737. Design for embroidering a chemise with round neck.
 The scalloped edges are to be padded and button-holed. Lace is designed to be applied between the dotted lines and the flowers are to be embroidered over it. The flowers are to be worked in Wal lachian stitch with the centers as eyelets or to be outlined in over and over stitch. The leaves can be worked as eyelets or solidly and the stems are to be outlined
 To make continuous scallops, work chain stitch between the lines, heavier at the centers and lighter at the points. or apply two or more strands over the center, tacking here and there in couching style. Button-hoIe closely over the foundation.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

costumes is. shown in the wool eponge which is favorite fabric while the other shows the popular and durable serge and there is Q suggestion found in a third costume for a striped material with trim ming of black fox that is exceedingly smart.
 Belts this season make a really inn portant feature and, when plain narrow ones are required, either those of leather or those of the material may be used, for both are smart. For the draped girdles, silk and velvet make the preferred ma terials.
 The top coat is always a useful gar ment. Entire gowns are to be much worn this winter and the coat that can be slipped on over any one and make an outdoor costume is an essentially satisfactory garment. For the simpler
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14
THE ALL-IMPORTANT PRACTICAL
 COSTUME.

THERE is no single costume which
 the wardrobe can contain that
 produces so much genuine com fort as the practical one in tailored style. This year it takes on very exceptional variety but simplicity of cut and finish .<emains its essential characteristic. Coat suits in various belted styles make an important feature of the early winter, there are suit coats in cutaway style that are exceedingly smart and there will also be worn great many top coats over entire gowns Fur trimming is very smart and quite general and almost every pos sibIe skin is used. Foxes are in great demand, skunk is always rich and hand some but also many of the lesser skins
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

The leaves are designed to be worked solidly, the stems to be outlined and the da;:iee worked sc.idly or as eyelets.
 When making solid embroidery, first pad the stamped figures by darning backward and forward lengthwise then cover closely with over and over stitches worked in the opposite direction from the padding.
 To make the leaves and flower petals as eyelets, run thread round the stamped figure, cut a slight slit lengthwise and then crosswise. push back the material and work closely over and over. Outline the stems by taking short stitches, keep ing the needle toward the right and working upward.
 Use embroidery cotton in weight adapted to the material.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

Wallachian embroidery is made of button-hole stitches, starting from the ton-hole toward the outer edge of each leaf. carefully following the curves of the design, and button-hole from the center of the dots to the outer edges and then pierce with stiletto. When out lining the stems, take short stitches, keep ing the needle toward the right and work upward.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

on the right side of the lining and stitdA around the closing edges and the shoulder seams. Turn right side outside. Arrange each side of the vest under each side of the coat with the edges of the coat at the lines of perforations. Sew the inner edges to the lining of the coat. turning them under first.
 Make both sides of the collar of novelty cloth or whatever material you select. Face the right. sides, cut out and stitch the seams around the outer edge. Turn right side outside
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14
perfOratIOns.

Now stitch the seams of rhe cloth sleeves and the seams of the lining sleeves. Place the velvet cuff and the lining cuff with right sides facing and stitch around the outer edge Turn and baste. Sew the cuff on the lower edge of the cloth sleeve with the large perforations at the inside seauls and notChes meeting. The seam should be inside the sleeve Roll back thecu and tack the corners invisibly 10 the cloth sleeve, in order to keep then from curling W hen the coat Is Ncra- Slip in the lining sleeve an1 basCe. seams meeting. Now turn the sleeve inside out Turn in the lining a seam width at the hand and b.ind-s-i,ch around to make q neat finish. Turn the sleeve right side out and place iJ in the armhole with the front seam at the notch in front and the large perforation at the shoulder seam. Stitch the cloth sleeves in thus. then turn the seam back and stitch iJ fiat on the outside of the coat. allow ing a seam width for margin Ihi> gives the tailored. set-in effect
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14
DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS.

7o42 Three-Quarter Loose Coat, 34 to
 42 bust.
 With Plain or Bell-Shaped Sleeves. 78I2A Blouse Coat in Balkan Style,
 34 to 40 bust. With Three-Quarter Bell or Long Plain Sleeves. Straight or Diagonal Closing, Peplum that can be made with Square
 or Round Front Edges. 1910 Three-Piece Plaited Skirt, p to
 g waist.
 With High or Natural Waist Line. 1864 English Top Coat, 34 to 42 bust With Two-Piece Sleeves that can be made Plain or in Bell Shape, with Cutaway Fronts with or without Under-arm Seams, CT with Straight Fronts and Under-Arm Seams. 7659 Single-Breasted Coat, 36 to 46
 bust.
 With Cutaway or Straight Fronts. 78I5 Four-Piece Skirt, p to g waist. With High or Natural Waist Line. 7454 Norfolk Coat. 34 to 40 bust. With Yoke and Applied Box Plait. 8o3o Two-Piece Skirt, P to 30 waist. With or without Trimming Straps, with High or Natural Waist Line. 1881 Loose Belted Coat, 34 to 40 bust. 1877 Two-Piece Skirt, P to g waist. With High or Natural Waist Line. 7487 Norfolk Coat, 34 to 40 bust.
 With Applied Box Plaits. 1902 Three-Piece Skirt. P to 34 waist. 7794 Empire Coat. 34 to 40 bust. With Cutaway or Straight Fronts, Three-Quarter or Long Sleeves. 1888 Two-Piece, Skirt, 22 to g waist. With FulIness at Side Seams Laid in Plaits with Overlapped Edges Below, with High or Natural Waist
 Line.
 8oI7 Semi-Fitting Cutaway Coat,
 With Fancy Vest.
 34 to A bust.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14
FASHION FORECAST
 IN FEMININE APPAREL
there is no costume in-
 cluded in the fashionable women's

HERHAPS there is no costume in-
 cluded in the fashionable women's
 wardrobe that supplies a more varied need than the one designed for afternoon occasions. When the purse allows, 1t Is, to be sure, apt to be ex- tremely elaborate but 1t is quite possible for the clever woman to arrange costumes of the kind that are smart and handsome, sufficiently dressy for the five o'clock visit or for any occasion that may arise before the dinner hour but simple enough to allow of the trip to the dressmaker's if need be, or for any one of the demands that may be made upon the time between luncheon and three o'clock. We are rushing, busy people. We work hard over our pleasures as we'll as over our duties and often the fashionable wOman's day Is filled to the point of beingcrowded. The costume that will perform many duties is surely a valuable one and this season materials and styles seem to com bine to bring such about, Velvet. wool velours, peau de pache and peau de souris are unQuestioned favorites for the making of such costumes and fur might fairly be said to be the essential trimming for no handsome costume seems to be com Plete without some touch at least. Hap oily, it often is only touch, however, and, for with the demand that has come for increased quantity, every skin is used. Today 1t is not the quality of fur but the effect and, if rabbit can be dyed to suit the costume, it serves quite as we'll as the costly ermine. If we can find harmonizing Colors and can dye to produce what we want, we are content. We buy fur as we do cloth today, not with an eye to permanence or value, but to achieve the result demanded at the time. As has been stated in previous letters, the chipmunk is extensively used for trimming, leopard's skin is employed in the same way, squirrel IS dyed to resemble closely chinchilla, rabbit is made to produce such wonderful effects that its origin could never be guessed, the cheaper foxes are dyed to any shade that may be required and among the latest arrivals must be mentioned the ntcn. II IS wonderfully Deautlful, SOft, long haired skin but until recently un- known to the world of fashion. It Is found in Russia, it is found in Germany, it is found in Canada. In its natural state, it is sometimes a light yellowish tone with occasional dark lines that form irregular stripes and sometimes dark brown, almost black, with a few light hairs. Both sorts are being much used for scarfs and mufs and also for trim ming and it seems almost needless to add that the skin also is dyed to deep brown color that closely resembles the skunk and also to the variety of shades demanded by present caprice.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

of the coat and the lining seams Eo- eether and baste them to hold ia position.
 Gather the upper portions of the vese at the lower edges. from the front edge to the single notch. Join them to 'h> lower portions. arranging the satheFs evenly. In order to get the baSSy effect shown in the Iest in the illus tration. you must now form a tON1- ward turning plait in each side. by Tapping the single cross over 10 the single perforation.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

have to be clipped on the bias at the corner. After you have done this, you must finish the upper edge of the lower portion that extends across the waist line A binding of velvet, cloth or silk braid could be used, or you can just turn in the seam and baste 1t down. Gather the lower edge of the center back. Join the seams of the back portions with the notches meeting.
 In cutting the lining for the vest, first fold over the downward turning plait in the pattern and pin it flat. Then lay the pattern on the lining and cut out. You will see that this gives you a firm basis on which to mount the vest. Lay the right side of the vest, after you have folded the plait,
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14


 Now the coat is completed all b-s finishing the edges of the lining ar the neck, the lower edge, the armholes and the front edges. Turn in sam width and blind-stitch. Lap the edses of the vest, the large perforations meeting. and close with buttons and buttonholes.
 Arrange the gathers at the hack and sew to the finished edge of the toNev back portion, the center back edge being under the lower back Sec diagram at the right. Stitch rhe ous- side in tailor fashion. as shown m the illustration.
 Close the shoulder and the under arm seam. Now the coat Is ready to arrange over the lining. Sew uP the seams of the lining; place the seams
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

and haste to keep smooth. Join the collar to the neck edge with the center back of each and the notches meeting. having the seam edge on the inside Of the coat. Roll the collar over on the perforations.
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

May Manton Patterns for these De- signs may be obtained by sending 10 cents for each pattern wanted to the
 Fashion Department of this paper. Fashion Dept.
 Gentlemen:-
 l enclose for which send me the following patterns:
 Send Pattern No. .......S Size. .... Send Pattern No. Size. .-. To (Name) .......-.-.--.... Street and Mo-. City ........... State. .. sS...
Arizona republican., 1913-11-14

No. 652. Design for embroidering sprays of small daisies. Two long sprays and ten smaller ones are given.
 They can be arranged over a blouse or shirt waist, on collars and cuffs utilized for children's dresses, for pin cushions, handkerchiefs and for variety
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1913-11-26
FACTS CONCERNING
HARCROVE COLLEGE
MANAGERS UNDECIDED AT PRES
EMIT WHAT TO DO IN REGARD
TO REoPENlNG INSTITUTION.

Rev. X. f. l.. Morgan, presiding
elder of the Oklahoma City district
and president of the board of educa-
tion of the western Oklahoma confer
ence. and Rev. w. A. shelton of Okla
homa City. secretary of the same
educational board, were Ardmore VS.
itors Tuesday These gentlemen came
here to confer with local Methodists
concerning Hargroye college which is
suspended this year for want OF funds
to operate il. Rev Mr.. Shelton stated
that the board has no funds to do
college extension work and that he
had no suggestions to make concern
ing Hargroye college and he feels that
nothing can be done at this time TO
revive the college. The Methodist
peoplc have maintained the college
in the past at considerable burden
to at least some of the members OF
the church, and while they are not
discouraged over the matter they dc
not know just what turn they can
make at this time to put the college
back at work.
Hargroye college consists of one
handsome building where school Is
kept. and two dormitories. The build
ings are of brick. The location is oI
24-acre tract northwest of the city
beautifully located and surroundin!
the college some pretty homes hay'
| been built.
Rev. Mr.. shelton owns a fruit farm
near Ardmore and while he is her
he will visit the farm.