Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-02

| and the stage have made so much of it.
| 1t is difficult to tell what set took 1t up
| first but Paris borrowed it from the Su-
perb Persian costume fetes that have
been so alluTingly described in New ork
recently by NJ. Andre de Fouquieres in MS
| lectures: 1t is more probable that the
idea in America was borrowed from the
stage and helped along by Mrs. Wander
bits Persian ball at Newport.
Such plays as ''Sumurun' and "kiSmet
helped the idea immensely over here, as
they brought the Persian costumes be-
fore the masses.
The artists and the public should really
like this introduction of the Persian lines
Into gowns. although the public Will prob
ably jeer and sheer at 1t as 1t has done
for the last three years whenever wom-
er's clothes We're mentioned. 1t has taken
an obstinate attitude of not liking any
thing. 1t has some fantastic theory in its
mind that women should return to tht
fashions of the 'fJS los or sos, but
1t is not quite sure in its mind what these
fashions are. If it saw them face to face
it would probably say they were hideous
and again ask why women couldnt re
turn to sane and sensible STYLES.
There is no doubt that the Amerl an
woman of today will transmute any
fashion offered her into something I'M
usual through the chemicals of her MIND
She does not want demure clothes anu
no matter by what name they are Called,
they look much alike when she wears
them. Whether ii IS a hobbie skirt WIN
out fullness or Persian skirt which is a
mass of swirling material she looks nan
uncovered. Her 'ack of underwear, hef
fiattened hips her bare neck, her silk
covered ankles and the absence of curves
are features that are Incorporated INTO
every costume and make her marked
creature in the history of dress
The Persian gowns have about three
e LOST
year. but they sink into her figure, reveal
her slenderness and make her look more
girlsh than ever. 1t is true that they are
definitely more feminine than the boyish
costumes of the near past, which. with
their narrow plain skirts, straight jack
cts. loose blouses and open. rolling collars,
gave every woman something of the ap-
pearance of young man.
This Persian influence is a bit difficult
to describe. although it's leading feature
is the swathing hip sash, which knots at
the left side or in front, and the startling
effect of full trousers beneath, which is
effected by the manipulation of the hem.
BY the way. this is an interesting trick,
and you might care to give it a moments
attention: Instead of the hem being fatty
turned up and stitched down. then pressed
with a hot iron. it is rolled up without
any definite footline and is stitched to
loose lining of china silk or chiffon cloth.
You can see the result in your minds
eye. The lower part of the skirt simply
falls like a pair of baggy trousers. and
added to a wide sash tied around the
hips, with bolero jacket above, you have
the Persian costume.
Even when there is not a bolero jacket
there is smoothly drawn bodice. which
has long pear-shaped armhOles and
sleeves that fit the wrists Sometimes
these bodices are heavily braided, and
there is a bit of gold or silver galloon at
the collar. This characterization heishtens
the resemblance to the national dress of
the shah.
While the experts are entirely familiar
with the wide hip sash in its many mani
festations, the majority OF women are