Gilpin observer., 1913-04-24

ways far above the surface OF
| the water, one is always hur-
rying rather noisily on, and so
necessarily but very little of the life
of the great river is seen. Passing
through the narrows above Para, the
forests can almost be touched on eth
er side of the steamer, but after that
one shore Is always very distant.
| There is something mysterious
about the river; canoes laden with for
est produce, brightly plumaged
maccaw perched on their prov, come
smoothly to the town; river steamers
with their burden Of evil smelling rub
ber, few brilliant orchids tied to
the wheelhouse, make fast to the
wharves. and always there is that
sense of the unknown, the bright, the
elusive. A desire to overcome this
| feeling of remoteness, writes a CORE
spondent of the London Times. de-
termined me to embark in a canoe
and journey out on the yellow waters
of the Amazon and through dim for
est hung channels to the black wa
ters and white sand strewn beaches of
the Rio Negro.
The difficulties l encountered we're
immense. All my Brazilian friepds
warned me of the dangers and hard
ships of such a voyage, and | found
that prohibitive prices were asked
for the hire of even the most insult
able craft Eventually ! secured
boat, and built tolda or hood over
one end. took my provisions on board.
hoisted sail and set off. My crew
consisted of Portuguese boatman
and Japanese.
Pests Of the River Amazon.
Sailing slowly down the river. the
boat kept very close to the bank and
slid along noiselessly. AS the day
wore on the wind died down and the
heat became intense. black fly
called motuca appeared in great num-
bers and inflicted painful bites. We
landed to light fire and cook lunch.
Small. dry sponges hung in the
branches Of the shrubs that had been
long submerged, yellow butterflies
were drinking in companies OF 80 or
more at little pools left on the slop-
ing shore. Huge yellow and black
hornets came around us and at first
frightened us. but we soon learned to
look on them as friends when we
found 1t was the motuca flies that
| they were hunting. not us. Otter hard
ly had a motuca settled when 1t was
pounced upon and borne of.
All insect pests were said to be far
worse on white water rivers than on
black water ones, SO we hastened to
leave the Amazon, 30 as II possible
to sleep that night on the shores of
one Of the lakes lying between that
river and the Rio Negro A breeze
sprung up and took US up the river
slowly enough, as the current COM
Ing down was very strong, but when
we turned up a stream leading to the
Rio Negro our progress ceased, the
sail was lowered and we took out the
oars.
1t proved to be very hot work Shut
In by the immense forest trees, no
breath of wind came to us, and we
we're very happy to come to a small
lake with place on its shores free
from brushwood cn which we could
camp My companions slung their
hammocks from branches OF trees,
carefully arranging their mosquito
nets TO protect them ut night. A lit
tie way from them. yard from the
waters edge. placed my mattress
and cased It In with mosquito net
on poles cut from the forest We
then strolled OF in search OF the un.
known.
There Is curious atmosphere OF
suspense or hush, in the Amazon for
est; the light only reaches one after
being filtered through greenery. The
wide leaves of the wild banana and
the frequent palms give very tropi-
cal air to the scenery. Noises are
few: occasionally a large bird Will Ut
ter it's call. an iguana will rush
through the rustling leaves. or some
monkeys will chatter as they swing
through the creepers overhead Bril-.
liant metallic blue Morpho butterflies
ait silently through the more open
sisles and the tracks OF night wander.
ing animals can be seen on the
ground