Semi-weekly herald., 1913-02-03
Another new wash material il har-


monica, a woven plated cotton fabric
made either plain or with small
embroidered design. The plaits are
very fine and the material has, there
fore, a crepe like surface.
Brocaded cotton velours is wash
able material which makes the lin
gerie dress more gorgeous than ever.
1t is of beautiful velvety texture and
is said to Iaunder satisfactorily. A
velvet-striped cotton crepe, the crepe
white, the velvet stripe in color, is
another novelty, for the velvet is made
of mercerized cotton in wonderful
imitation of silk velvet.
One of the most interesting Of the
new materials is Chat mouilIe," or
vet cat. This is lightweight silk
plush light enough for summer even
ing wraps. 1t is made in changeable
colors of great beauty--one especially
interesting combination being of gold
en- brown and dull, soft blue. Its
rather sleek appearance doubtless sug-
gested its name. Lined with chiffon,
it makes an ideal evening wrap for
wear during the warm summer sea-
son.
Onduline, another fabric, which bids
fair to find favor for spring wear, is
soft satin whose undulated surface
suggests the silk reps Of which it is
an outgrowth.
The coming season is to be one full
of color. Almost all of the new lin
gerie frocks and blouses show touches
of some vivid green, red, yellow or
blue or combination of several of
these colors. Lingerie dresses have
cuffs or revers of brightly colored
II iils, pipings Of color and colored but
ons. Blouses and shirtwaists are re-
iieved by touch of color somewhere,
evening dresses are almost invari-
ably bright in blue, and even coat
suits are hardly complete without a
gay colored scarf, vest or tie of some
| sort.
A trimming which answers the de-
sire both for metallic luster and for
Oriental richness is oriental mirror
embroidery, which once before en-
| ioyed reign of fashion in the west
This embroidery is formed of small
shining, colored bits of metal, sug-
gesting mirrors in their brightness
| They are fastened on, surrounded with
small glass beads, in color harmoni-
Gus with the color of the dress on
which the trimming is used and give
a bright and attractive effect.
Lace, stiffly fluted, as the peasants
Of Norway flute the lace on their caps
is found on some of the new lingerie
| blouses. Narrow lace fluting are also
used to top black silk and satin col
lars of Robespierre and Elizabethar
designs. Narrow side-plaited frills OF
hemstitched null or batiste, them
selves suggestive of flutings, are used
to edge the box plat of front closing
nainsook or batiste waists.
Rhinestones are in great demand
this year. Not only do they appea,
in the heels of slippers, in garters and
as trimming for bathing caps, but they
are used as the centers of flowers in
heavily embroidered white stockings
They are much used, too, in combina-
ton with black silk velvet ribbon, fol-
| various little bows and ties and other
neck fixings.
A charming shoulder scarf is made
of an all-over lace, showing small
! rose design on a net MESH Silver
| thread is used to outline fine, run.
| ming design between the roses. The
scarf is lined with white chiffon, and
is bordered with two-inch ruche OF
the chiffon. Three or four lengthwise
ruches of the chiffon band the scarf
from end to end and the stitches which
hold these ruchings in place, also hold
the lining firm.
Colored china buttons are much used
to give the necessary dash of colol
W Lingerie NdlSlS. lneSe buttons Ill
white, with rim or center of some
bright color, are often sewed on with
black or colored thread, to produce a
three-toned effect. For example, on
a blouse made of white crepe, en-
broidered in black and red, black and
red buttons would be sewed with red
thread or red and white buttons would
be sewed on with black thread.
Metal in the form of beads, gold
and silver embroidery, cloth of gold
and silver and metallic lace is much
used. Silk voile in bordered effect
is shown with mosaic border Of flow
ers with a metal tracery. A new
white silk-bordered material has a
wonderful band of roses, in deep rich
reds, in tapestry weave with metal
brocading in gold and silver threads
above and below the roses. The the
ater caps made Of gold or silver tis-
sue, meshes woven of gold or silver
threads and strings of beads are so
heavy with gold and silver lace and
ha dc nf att<, -.