The evening world., 1913-05-28

tall. slender and slinky." Tho last Z
defining the ideal figure In the eyes o
Nevertheless. fashion brought before
the court OF art can hope for nothing
better than a disagreement Of the Jury.
There have been dissenters from the
verdict Of mot guilty" earlier IN this
series: another Joins their ranks to-day.
He II Arthur l. Keller, painter and Illus
traitor, who 10 particularly we'll known
for his really exquisite studies Of the
girl o: the middle of the last century.
the Southern beauty who fiits through
SO many Of the tales OF F. Hopkinson'
Smith and Thomas Nelson Page. M.
Kel'e: admits the impracticabil!ty Of tho
revival Of tho hoopskirt. but there are
many other modes o. tho hfties and SIX
ties which he would be exceedingly glad
to see worn this summer.
u thaAk the Marrow sA1xts ere
nest tnArtistAo,~ ~ declared ~.
cause they absolutely prsvsnt .
gliainS, graceful wslk. Z ina tie
sat skirts hiasous, ana thofolgh.
" aisliks he long blousss which
end OF sonsWAefe eyou1a TIE
Knees. Z aislaks ~ asSes for
women which tends - saph1G1ss
ssx eharaetsgastaos. Also I % not
care for the a9octatAon q aaA-
nlsh appearance. such - 10 given
b the severely tailored suits.
There are some very beautiful color
schemes to be found among present day
styles, colors that are beautiful In them
selves and In combination. There are
also many exquisite materials. and
am pleased to see the prevalence OF
what I believe they call the seamless
shoulder That Is an artistic effect. De-
cause It does not break the beauti.ul
line from the throat. back of the car,
down over the forearm. The same re-
suit was obtained in the costumes just
before the civil war by draping the
shoulders with an exquisite lace scarf
which fell from the neck down over the
arms and was either crossed over the
corsaee or gathered In q knot at the
centre. am glad they have revived
tho wearing Of scarves with evening
gowns; It's an exceedingly graceful
/ fashion"
DOESN'T WELCOME the suL-
oARlAN DloUs6e. ~.
"you don't care for, the Bulgarian
| b,ouses; do you welcome the spirit OF
Orientallsm which In influencing most OF
the styles Ia one way or another"
asked.
81 do not" replied Mr.. Keller in hli
soft but firm voice. He las the, cultured
information and dlction wn,eh may bt
compared to the literary style OF the
verv best vriters-the art that conceali
art.
"Western women should not try Il
take over their clothes from tho womer
OF the East" lie continued. "In thu
nrst place. the latter are very small IL
the matter OF height at least. Most o.
them are less tall than even our shor
wonobn. Then the Eastern woman diReri
from the woman of the Occident boil
in face and In disposition. The Easterl
tyne IL !stinguished by very black eye
and hair, q dark skin and q languorou
temperament and expression. The aver
age American girl 10 the absolute an
tIthesls OF these characteristics, with he
blue eyes, brown hair. fair skin and en-
ergetic disposition. You only achieve tn
| lnCOUkTuOub WHCh yoe 49, ASs 80
semi Oriental dress"
"Now you've told tho things YOU don
like her TO VICAR. Won't you make fev
positive suggestions? urged.
~ should Hks 70 sss tie AnsEi.
can WOMAN wearing again some Of
the graceful feminine fsoeks she
| wore about sixty yssss $50. Z lite
the rather fun. flowing sA1Sts
whaoh reach the ground. aaa whash
are sdesA with . score Of dainty
i rufflse. Iiks the bodice With ths
l sloping shoulders and ne droepiAs.
linss. And an especially fonA Of
xhe vsy they ala their hair IN aS<S
-paxteA sad brought back n rip
piiss waves to . simple knot low
down 1. the neck, with just . reese
+. o<Sr one ear.
'"The modern girl has improved durin
the last year in the arrangement OF he
colffure. She parts II instead OF pushin
II forward over her eyebrows In a sol!
pompadour and building 1t out with falls
puffs. But the Ideal way OF dressing tn
hair il the simplest one, tine one shown
, most fully the natural shape Of tn
. head"
HE DOESN'T WANT TO BRiN'
BACK THE HooPskiRT.
you don't want to bring back III
hoopsklrt, do your
-