davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

silk and wool 1t is said that the cotton
WedVes Will again be brought to the front
by the shops and offered i'm quantities.
When cotton crash, which is much the
same thing. was brought into fashion. it
did not have as many followers as 1t de-
served. Women were rather wary of ii
and wondered If 1t would last or If ii was
object to it in cOlors for frocks but they
thought il would share the same fate
as cotton crepe when ii was washed This
material shrunk badly and one was never
sure of being able to wear a shirt waist
of il after IL came home from the laun-
dry. Its defect was SO we'll known that
the shops persuaded the women to buy
blouses in sizes two or three times larger
than the normal because they did not
want them returned
But cotton crash and cotton crepe
proved to be entirely different materials.
The crash was intended to go to the
wash and come out of il with the safety
of a bath towel, and when women found
this out they Incorporated ii as well
come fabric. This was late last year and
therefore ii is only natural that the early
spring garments should be built of crash.
1t usually takes two seasons to impress
fabric or design upon a nation. and
arguing by this rule we shall probably
from now until next October.
nament SO ordinary a material as towel
| ing with lace or hand embroidery, and
! therefore the simpler the blouse the
better. This does not mean that any
| woman can make a dozen OF these
blouses without taking thought. She
| needs a gd&5 pattern and 1t Is necessary
! that she XIV hoo to cut and to hit. Sim
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19
To L@wmd@r a Shirt Waist

bluing water shake a bag of ball blue
about in basin of clear luAewarI,l water
until the hand when it is held about three
inches below the surface of the wac
looks sky blue. There is no danger of
streaky bluing water if the blue ball is
always kept in a bit o. canton flannel.
Three or four shirt waists could be put
through this soaping and rinsng and blu
ing process in fifteen minutes at the mos.
They will then have the whole day to dry.
In the evening the waists should be
starched with uncooked starch and partly
dried. The amount of starch needed will
depend on the weight of the waists and
the degree of stiffness desired. Thinner
waists do not need so much starch as
heavier ones.
After the waists are starched they can
be hung in front Of fire or near a ra-
diator SO that they will dry quickly. When
they are about dry as spcinkled clothes
roll them in little packages and begin
ironing
Iron the sleeves first with a smooth,
clean iron Wax, paraffin. bit OF candle
and salt all clean and polish the surface
Of the iron.
Iron slowly, and if the iron is too hot
let it cool to the right temperature. If by
chance the waist is scorched don't worry
Put it aside until the next day, when it
should be wetted and exposed to the sun
This remedy removes the scorch mark
like magic
After the sleeves are pressed iron the
rest of the waist. and at the end go over
the whole waist. sleeves and ALL again,
pressing out wrinkles. Put the ironed
waist on hanger and dry it thoroughly
before putting it away.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

adopts white shirt waists as an every
day garment. They cost her much in
laundry bills and wear and tear, but she
can buy them for a small price in the
beginning and therefore she thinks them
cheap.
AS far as the American is concerned it
is probable that the white shirt waist will
decades to come: she rather glories in it,.
as she does in the short skirt and the
severely plain tailor suit because they
are her own inventions. She wears them
better than any one else and she can be
told because of them from San Francisco
10 ConstantinOple
Therefore her interest in them. espe-
cially In the white shirt waist is con-
tinuous, but IL is especially strong at this
season of the year. 1t must be admitted
that the French will dominate the field
this season as far as invention goes,
for thcy have persuaded the American
woman to turn her back on the ella borate
muslin waist with its mass of embroid-
cry and lace, more or less cheap. She
has shown her. by example. the beauty
of simplicity in muslin, for the new
blouses are almost untrimmed and are
therefore better looking than any we have
had for years
Fine tucks are always good, and with
the excellence of American machine sew
ing IL is not necessary that they should
be made by hand. They are close to-
Sether, practically covering the surface
in somewhat the same manner t--s,t
haberdashers use in making mems even
ing shiNsn 1t is true they are difficult
to iron am therefore they are less practi-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19
A CLEAN hot iron, box of the sort
n of starch which does not need cook

A CLEAN hot iron. box of the sort
n of starch which does not need cook
ing, pure soap which is strong
enough to remove CRIME but does not
roughcn or redden the hands, two balls
of bluing tied IN square of canton fan
mel and plenty of warm water. these are
the things needed by the girl whb would
Iaunder her own shirt waists after the
days work is done If she goes about
the work in the right way it need not be
arduous, and If she works carefully she
can soon prove herself a good laundress
and save money and torn clothes besides.
1t is a good idea to soak the sOi1ed
clothes for ten or twelve hours before
washing them This soaking process can
not hurt even the finest lingerie blouse,
and clothes thus treated are much more
easily aad quickly washed. They should
be we'll soaked and put in warm water. A
teaspoonful of powdered borax or table
spoonful of household ammonia to ba-
sinful of water will whiten the clothes.
The shirt waists might be soaked in this
way overnight. The next morning they
should be rubbed between the hands. or
on one of the small rubbing boards. about
foot long. that come for this sort of
laundry work. in fresh. warm soapsuds
Five minutes will serve 20 make them
perfectly clean il soaked overnight
E They should then beAthoroughly rinsed
in warm water and Mued. To make the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19
Concerning Separate Waists

N o not contrast the waist with the
skirt, but have them closely related
in color. either in the goods or in
the trimming. Yokes are deeper than
ever. They come almost to the belt line
in front and in back. The newest suimpes
are collaress, and are worn with the
Robespierre or Byron collar. The fancy
of the moment for these guimpes is shad-
ow lace, which is not new. but is treated
in new ways. The tiny figure is brought
out with little applications of lace me-
dallions. or with stitches of embroidery,
or the lace. if untrimmed. is boned high
In the neck. and the top edge is trimmed
or edged with a color.
The tones in these waists are seen not
en- masse. but delicately suggested by d
fringe of cardinal, a piping of green.
handsome buttons. Jacqueminot satin
with a frill of black satin around the
edge, countless designs in dots and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

stripes. and by million shaded taffetaS.
corduroys and brocaded velvetS.
Fancy braiding is much worn for sep
arate waists. and there are very beauti-
full tinsel braids that are used for collar
and cuffs. and for trimming waists with
little bands broken in military fashion.
One must not use a prOfuSion of tlnsel,
but little is extremely good
The shorter the sleeves the more trim
med they are. 1t is only the long sleeves
that are plainly tailored. The little puffy
undersleevc of fine lace is worn under
the full elbow sleeve
Surplice effects most worn. but
many handsome waists are made with a
long front panel of lace, or satin over
laid with lace or chiffon. one layer over
the other, and lace over the chiffon. max
ing a SNOWY front panel in waist of
dark material. This panel reaches from
the neck to the belt and is often trimmed
with buttons or embroidery. Crystal but
tons are now employed in every possible
way in the trimming of a shirt waist.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19
More Wardrobe Space.

THE modern woman's ideal home is a
LOT of closets and Wardrobes sur
rounded by walking room. There are any
number of clothes presses that are in
convenient. The long closet which is
built extremely narrow is merely dark
tunnel with door at one end. and one
has no idea of what is within unless
every garment hangs i'm the same place
each time. If one article slipe from d
hook, it carries all the others with it.
There is only one remedy for this trou-
bic Hang every skirt perfectly fiat
against the wall, so that the hens escape
the floor, and have pasteboard coat hang
on which to place waists to be hung
just above the skirts. Have a metal
skirt clamp to hold three or four petit
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

be found very useful when looking for
dress articles. The modern clothes press
has two wide shelves on each wall. and II
Is provided with convenient box that
is lors enough to hold long dresses and
coats when not in use 1t has a window.
and small ladder for use i'm reaching
articles that stored far above one :
reach. One large clothes press OF this
sort is worth dozen small ones.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

muslin, for they do not hold any starch,
which is always warm addition to any
garment in summer Then silk does not
require as much ironing for 1t does not
crush easily under coat. China is
sending over vast quantity of silk
weaves for spring and summer use which
will be made up into every kind of blouse
Crepe de chine is to be the most popular
fabric for frocks as well as suits and
naturally there will be a great deal of it
used for shirt waists. These have been
worn during the winter by many women
who like the cloth and have taken ii up
for all manner of garments You know
II has quite ousted muslin for expensive
not tear easily and has costly and lux
urious air For underwear it is used
i'm flesh pink, but in blouses it is white
These waists of crepe de chine are also
untrimmed. unless one counts fancy
collar trimming. The large collars
are usually plain. but there is an inside
one for women who do not like to go on
the streets with bare necks: il is made
Of shadow lace or white net edged with
Irish lace.
II one uses muslin for shirt waists
instead of these new fabrics it would be
wise to cover the fronts and the back
with fine tucking and use long sleeves
finished with turnover cuffs and add
twO-inch frill in front The choice be-
tween a low collar and a high one Is
personal. Fashion allows both. There
has been every effort made to bring in
the boned high collar and drop the low
one. but SO far all efforts have failed.
This fashion may succeed during the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

coats together. Avoid shelves as YOU
would IL torment unless in a large closet.
for narrow shelves are of little or no
use whatever. The little box closet which
is found in so many houses is nearly
always dark. but if one has electric
light on a Ions wire in the room, it will
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19
Dainty Shoulder Scarfs.

THE latest designs In shoulder scarfs
are Of white or cream colored net,
and they show the craze for bead deco
ration. They are embroidered with deli
cately colored glass beads in pink, green,
blue. gold and silver, sewed on in elab-
crate conventional designs in wide band
from few inches to a half yard in
width at each end of the scarf. A fringe
of beads in the predominating color of
the embroidery adds the necessary finish
to these beautiful scarfs.
The newest blouse suits for girls have
the belts two or three inches below the
waist line. To very slender, tall girls
they are most becoming.
Suits of tussor or charmeuse for the
south are in dark red. currant, mulber-
ry. cherry and geranium color, lined with
mousseline.
The kmono sleeves continue, but often
they are the kimono set onto the droop-
ing or extended shoulder and brought
down into fitted form.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19
Fashion News.

cold lace is used on all evening gowns
~ in some form or other. either as
tunic. panel garniturc OF some sort.
| Silver and platinum bracelets are super
sed'ng gold ones. The watch bracelet
and the tiny purses for a pendant To long
chains are both useful and ornamental
Fur is much worn. Ermine and pointed
fox and ermine and mole are worn to-
gether Two kinds of furs are used,
with their maps running contrary ways.
and are applied to the hem of gowns
and to wraps. White coney is popular
for trimmings: moleskin is mostly worn
for wraps and whole trimmings. Musk
rat is used instead of costly seal. and
graceful draperies are formed OF caracul
and ermine Caracul forms the upper
part of wraps or mantles. with black
velvet for the base. Hats OF fur match
mufrs The long-haired pearl monkey
fur is used to trim gray wraps. The hug
me-tight shade of wrap is very comfort
able. made of squirrel or chinchila.
Silver-shaded lace. mixed with tulle,
over fesh-tlnted charmeuse. is among the
most fashionable combinations for a
young girls ball gown. The popularity
for black and white has extended to the
debutante dress. made OF alternate ruff
filings of black and white, wide white
flounce falling over black. the white tulle
sleeves reaching to the elbow which to-
gether with the decolletage, is edged with
rhIneStoneS.
Collars OF extraordinary sheer batiste
or mousseline. heavily embroidered are
seen on almost every new waist
Matelasse is a wonderful material when
you remember how is used for skirts,
gowns. waists and evening wraps.
Some of the new skirts have pocke:s,
but pockets large enough for the owners
hands only. not for even a handkercSis>
Hemp promises to be the greatest
favorite for spring hats, though milan.
horsehair and panama will hold their
own.
Beaded work on tulle is having a great
vogue for evening wear. One of the
best effects is where the dresses are IN
two colors.
pretty afternoon dress for a tall
woman is made of charmeuse. with A
blouse bodice of knife-pleated charmeuse
and a medici collar.
Another trick is to attach the buttons
by means of embroidery stitches radiat-
ing from the center of the button.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

former than the latter. The American
women are said TO have invented the
white blouse. or what was once called the
shirt waist: the nations unite in giving
the credit to America. and they have
copied 1t even while it amused them.
The English liked the idea. but thought
il rather extravaganza and the French
disliked the idea. but adopted it purely
because it was a novelty For years
they would not wear it. and when they
did take it up they insisted upon label
ing il as American, and the stranger
does not understand the significance OF
that word when il is used by a French
woman. All her life she has been taught
TO sneer at anything that was not created
in France; she is the most provincial
creature in the world, and because of
this she has established strong individ-
uality and makes other women go her
way. However she wore white blouses
First they appealed TO her childike
love of novelty. and then she found their
usefulness convenient to her scheme OF
dressing. She cares little for the economy
or extravaganza attached to garment:
her only demand is that it pleases her
fancy and becomes useful to her. 1t is
rather interesting to find the difference in
the way shirt waists are worn in Amer
lea and France. Here they arc adopted
as a uniform garment by those who are
not rich and those who have to work:
there they badge of the well-to-do.
The French working girl knows how to
get the best out of every penny and
therefore she does not indulge in the ex
travagance of soap and water and iron
ing for six waists week She wears
dark one-piece frock into which she can
insert white at the neck and wrists.
The American. on the other hand, is SO
STEPPED in eXtravagant ideas that she has
little knowledge of the value of penny
she reckonS in dollars. Therefore she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

Polo shirt waists. which We're the lure
that led to- this depression, will not only
he worn in crash but i'm tub silk, which,
by the way. is the favored fabric Of the
moment for informal shirt waists. This
silk was brought over from Austria and
England season ago. but the shops
were not quite sure that demand would
be made on it, 1t was popular in spots.
Now and then there would be run on
it and then its popularity would lapse.
This season the shops have brought out
quantities of tub silks. most of which
were made in America. They have a white
or a cream ground with colored stripe.
These stripes follow the colors of the
season. Many are blue, some are green,
there are a few yellOWs and several
shades of tan.
They are much cooler, these silks, than
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

plicitv is easily marrcd by tho least
deviation from the perfect line and when
you can't cover up the mistake by lace or
embroidery it behooves YOU to be care
full
However. there are blouses made OF
cotton crash that have embroidery on
them and it does not spoil the effect be-
cause it suits the fabric. 1t is done with
extra heavy mercerized floss, usually IN
colors. Experts call this agaric emoroid-
cry. and YOU have probably seen a great
deal of 1t on imported gowns and hats
during the winter. There is also IA new
cotton wolfe on the market viii n has
conventional border in aSaric embroidery.
and probably it will he used on many
garments made of cotton fabrics.
The RobeSpierre design is the best 10
use. for these cotton blouses. using but
tons of Irish crochet and wide collars of
macrame lace. There is a new kind or
cIuny lace that is simple in design, looks
like macrame and is very suitable al
dition to any kind of cotton crash, plain
or colOred
One should have good Judgment in
wearing these crash blouses. They are
not suited to coats and skirts OF vol
veteen, velour de laine or corded SILK;
They so with suits of pongee. linen and
colored crash. They take the place OF
polo shirt waists, which women have
been wearing this winter far more than
the men have. Women take up men S
ia shions with a facility that is alarm
Ing and as soon as a tailor in London
or America inventS anything new for
man. short of trousers. the women copy
It. They have not even drawn the line
at pajamaS.
1t has become mania with the dress
makers to draw their new models from
old fashions for men. The kings OF
Italy. France and England have fur
nished the majority of the new styles for
the last half dozen years. Even the new
est hat is called after Sir Francis Drake.
The man students of Paris have loaned
women their famous hat called the beret,
which is the fashion of the day and has
been popular since last August. They
have also loaned them their picturesque
cape of cloth or velvet with it's colored
lining and its loose artistic folds.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19
NEW Blouses Show Varia-
/ y tons on Well Known
Styles and the Robespierre
Collar Holds Its Own.

T has never been
reasoned out why
women's thoughts
turn to blouseS in
midWinter, but the
fact is they do. 1t
MAY be a queS-
ton of demand,
for waists wear
out sooner than
skirts and coats
and one needs
many more OF the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

cal than the shirt waist that has the
uuaTter-inch tucks to adorn it.
The method that was used last winter
with shirt waists of putting an ohlOng
shaped piece of tuckng in the front is
gain seen in the new blouses. though ii
is doubted that il will be popular. This
piece is outlined with double ruffie of
lace. and there is row of studs down
the front which are either white or col
ored pearls.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

The much maligned RObespierre waists
have probably put out of commission
most of the other kind because they
fasten i'll front, which is the greatest
convenience in q garment woman
knows. and because they provide wide
collar that can be pulled out over the
coat collar in order that it may look well
on the street. This shape of blouse will
be worn all spring and no woman need
hesitate to buy many as she needs.
even if they are now reduced and sold at
a bargain All She should look after is
the sewing and the material. The lat
ter must he admirable: the former must
be beyond reproach. We are far advanced
beyond the stage of poor machine sewing
and of materials that thicken in the
wash.
There is material called cotton mar
uuisette cotton wolfe which rivals mus
lin for shirt waists because it requires
little starch and is easily ironed. 1t is
not new it has been worn by the know
ing ones for several years and sold by
the shops for at least three seasons yet
every one does not realize its distinct adj
vantagcs. II should not be trimmed. be-
cause it is at it's best with only seam
beading and frill of cluny lace or one
of itself edged with Irish pi-ot.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

Hemp promises to be the greatest
favorite for spring hats. though milan.
horsehair and panama will hold their
own.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

Collars Of extraordinary sheer batiste
or mousseline, heavily embroidered are
seen on almost every new waist
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

Some of the new skirts have Dockc.s,
but pockets large enough for the owners
hands only, not for even a handkercsis>
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

Because of the popularity of ratine in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

Beaded work on tulle is having a great
vogue for evening wear One of the
best effects is where the dresses are in
two colors
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

MatelaSse is a wonderful material when
you remember how a. is used for skirts,
gowns. waists and evening wraps
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

pretty afternoon dress for tau
woman is made of charmeuse. with
blouse bodice of knife-pleated charmeuse
and medici collar.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-19

Another trick is to attach the buttons
by means of embroidery stitches radiat-
ing from the center of the button.
The Bon Homme County independent. [volume] (Tabor, S.D.) 1904-1913, 1913-01-23

nation. ] was sick every three weeks
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days. t..'..f. .~.....
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RICHARDS, Westwood, Maryland.
Women who suffer from those dis
hessing. ills peculiar to their sex should
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III you have the slightest doubt
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(confidential) Lynn, Mass, for ad-
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