davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
Pile Fabrics of Light Weight the Ultra Me Plaid
and Striped Silks Used in Effective Trimmings
The Sash Feature Of Tailored Wear Skirts
Shorter Than Ever But No Less Narrow

less did the ready ones pat them
selves approvingly on the back for
having been well preserved when the
need came.
Skirts Very Short, Says Paris.
Like the weights on a Swiss clock
skirts move up and down. Now they
are up again, and hens will well
escape the ground. This seems rath-
er strange, in an era of draped eff
fects. but since the new skirt clings
very closely about the limbs and the
ankles, it's shorter length is not awk-
ward-as might be the case did 1t
swing clear of the feet. Footwear, of
course, with these caught-up skirts,
will be very, very conspicuous and
no doubt the bootmakers are congrat-
ulating themselves upon this fact; at
any rate their windows are full of the
most enchanting styles in new walking
boots for fall wear-daintily shaped
affairs with slim toes of patent leath-
er and buttoned tops Of cloth and
suede that look as though they would
fit like the paper on the wall. High
heels are a foregone conclusion with
these new short, draped skirts which
would be unspeakably awful with
broad-soled, low-heeled shoes; and
there is a new French heel which
looks as daintily curved as any Louis
XVI model, but whose broad base
gives perfect support to the weight
of the figure.
Goats of Fanciful Cut.
Tricksy affairs are the new tailored
coats which are cut to give the figure
much breadth at the shoulders and a
tapering effect at the hips. The cut
away line continues in favor and it is
the exceptional coat of French ex-
traction that is not longer at the back
than in front. Almost invariably, the
front opens over a very conspicuous
waistcoat of contrasting material, and
indeed the era of the waistcoat has
arrived beyond peradventure. In the
neckwear departments now waistcoats
all ready to slip on with the fall tail.
leur may be purchased separately
and one may own two or three waist
coats; one of black and white striped
uncut velvet, say, for mornings; an.
other of buff moire with pearl but.
tons for the afternoon promenade
and perhaps third waistcoat dt
luxe of shrimp pink brocaded sill
for matinee days. If the waistcoa
falls below the waistline in two blum
tabs piped with black, and If the
waistline is encircled by black satir
holt
modishness of the effect.
This idea is illustrated in a par
ticularly smart new fall model b,
Bernard which is built of striped mo
hair-a material just now reignint
in high favor in Paris, and one wei
suited for demi season wear. Th,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

~ABRICS and not form offer the
~ striking new note in tailored
VA wear. The silhouette promises
to remain much the same
throughout the autumn and winter
season. though the Oriental influence
is making itself felt less and less and
is slowly but surely being supplanted
by effects more conventional and re-
fined, But tailors throughout the land
are interesting themselves in new
fabrics and new colorings and the
most pronounced fall feature is the
fancy for rough-surfaced goods. This
does not mean materials of heavy or
cumbersome texture for the late
weaves are exquisitely soft and light;
and cling as successfully as the silks
of the summer season just passing;
but eponge weaves and pile fabrics
in velvet and plush textures are par
ticularly we'll liked and there is one
new stuff over which Paris is mad at
the moment. This is called duven-
tine, and is a wooden material with
a velvet-like finish and a texture as
soft and pliable as that of cotton
woven sponge cloth or crepe. Bro
caded stuffs of wooden weave will also
silk and wool Lansdowne, a very
soft, clinging worsted and silk mix
ture with a lustrous sheen on it's
outer surface, is especially favored
for indoor costumes and limousine
gowns of formal nature.
Plaid skirts With Plain Coats.
The fad for coats and skirts of
80.
dure through the autumn at least;
and tailors are turning out many
smart models of this sort for early
wear in October; for the woman who
dresses modishly, does not don a
wool tailored suit much before that
time. September in New York and
its environs is sultry month, and
little frocks of silken stuff though
in dark color, are most comforta BILE
for running about town. Even in
September, however, the wind Is like
ly to swing round to the northward
any minute, and with the north wind
may come brisk, snappy days that
make a smart little silk frock look
pitifully behind the season. This was
the case last year when the mercury,
in September dropped to a few de-
grees above freezing and for two days
the wind held steadily from the north
west. Then blossomed out the fore
handed woman, clad in spic and span
new tailored suits, buttoned boots and
trinity yelled toques. They fitted the
picture to perfection; while less
provident sisters bent to the bleak
blast on Fifth Avenue, with summer
sllks f1uttering back from summer
pumps and noses almost nipped by
the unexpected cold. OF course 1t
was warm again = even uncomfort-
ably warm all through many sunny
Indian summer days; but none the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

buttoned walking boots with welted
soles, Cuban heels and tops of fine
twilled cloth. After all, such boots
resembling in their elegant simplicity
and distinction of line the conventions
al dress boot of the masculine sex
with its slender patent leather vamp
and top of twilled cloth, seem to give
the most tone to tailored street
costume, and such boots are worn by
the women who are notably fastidi-
Gus about the finer details of dress.
All aristocratic boots have now a
long, slender, patrician line-the aim
being to make the foot look aristo-
cratically slim. Anything like q
stubby effect is sedulously avoided
and the short-vamp boot is hopeless
ly passe-so far as we'll dressed wom-
EN- are concerned. The French foot
is short and thick; the English foot
long and slender; the English ideal
therefore prevails at the present mo-
ment-as far as footwear is con-
cerned; though all other standards of
fashion are essentially French. The
smart boot, and even the smart slip
per now has long, rather receding
line of toe and while the modish foot
is slightly longer from a side view
than it was two seasons ago, the front
view is extremely slim and patrician
and curiously enough, the ankle
looks smaller and trimmer with these
slender foot lines than it did in the
days of the short shoe with its
stubby toe and steep instep.
Colonial p11,1nne with q a v O q n
buckles and high curved heels are
very pretty with indoor costumes Ike
gowns for reception, bridge and res
taurant wear. There is a new boot
heel. almost as curved as the Louis
type yet somewhat broader at the
base and setting more squarely un-
der the heel of the foot and less
toward the center of the sole than
the regulation French heel. These
heels are really comfortable for walk
ing, and one observes them even on
buttoned boots for street wear They
are actually no higher than the very
tall, straight Cuban heel and afford
quite as much support to the weight
of the figure. With evening gowns
the high heeled buttoned boot of
suede or satin, or the little satin slip
per with buckle of cut steel or rhine-
stones is the choice. Mammoth. gilt
tering steel buckles on pumps worn
in the street are not affected now by
best dressed women, unobtrusive
buckles of covered type being pre-
ferred.
The modern maid has special dane
ing boots for the popular tea dances
at which dainty afternoon gowns and
hats are worn. Some women pre-
fer buttoned boot for dancing;
others dance best with the ankle
unconfned When the boot is the
selection, it is usually of the al
ways dressy patent leather with a
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
FLOWERS SUITABLE FOR EVEN
ING DECORATION.

77DHEN selecting flowers for the
dinner table or other decorative
w purposes under the conditions
of artificial light bear in mind that
all yellow and blue flowers appear
much paler and rather dead by arti-
fetal light, while white flowers and
the brilliant hued- flowers stand out
with more snap. On the other hand
the soft green foliage appears to
greater advantage under artificial
light than does the very dark green
foliage, though bright green's show up
far better under these conditions.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
The Faithful Swiss Police Dog

jolliest. gentlest doggie Imaginable;
but let his master but lift an eye
brow, or a finger while he is at play
and instantly. he is on guard, his
watchful eye on his erstwhile play
mate. now become a suspicious char
acter. Rex also guards the office
safe, sitting beside it and growing
ominously if guest apprcsc1 IS too
near Then, prestol at his 7.aster's
CHEEKY word. his guard-time Is over
and down he leaps playful. merry
fellow again. looking for a game.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

- HE keeper of the hotel-pension
n among the Swiss Lakes has his
~ faithful canine assistant who
guards the office safe when he Is alb
sent; and stands watch over his mas
ter's sleep, ready TO waken him at an
instant's notice or to protect him in
case of attack; for some of the Swiss
pensions are in lonely places. and
trip to the bank with money is only
attempted once a week. Rex, not
able police dog of this type is ready
for a game with his friends among,
the guests at any time and Is the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
To Utilize Old Newspapers

paper, to keep away moths as they
avoid printers' inl:.
Old trunks and boxes that are used
for storing purposes should be lined
with newspapers.
Make pads of newspapers. covered
with cambric to put on window sills
to keep out drafts.
Fold a piece of newspaper inside
children's rubber boots.
A cook book which makes a useful
gift for a friend may be made from
collection Of cooking recipes taken
from newspapers
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
FOR CHrLDREN's PARTIES.

=" PARTY favor holder, which chill.
u dren will be sure to find attract
i've, is one that comes in the
shape Of a big cake. beautifully FROST
ed, decorated with garlands of tiny
leaves and flowers, and having in
visible sticks Tor small wax candles
The cake, of course, is not real one,
neither are the decorations and the
frosting made of sugar; so that the
same cake may be used repeatedly.
if desired. 1t is made of eight wedge
shaped boxes, each about the size of
a large slice of layer cake, and Is
passed. in turn to each of the little
guests.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

net, pale blue ribbons attached to the
net, showing through the embroidery
and forming delicate color harmony
with the terra Gotta suit
Bright Trimmings Used With Dark
Fabrics.
ColoTs this autumn will be quieter
so far as suits and gowns are con
cerned; but the knowing touch of
gay color is inevitably added in the
way of trimming. such as sash. girdle,
waistcoat, or collar and cuffs. There
are new metal trimmings which COM
bine silver or gilt threads with futur-
ist coloring, and the costume of un-
cut velvet shows vest and belt of
this trimming. Uncut velvet in two
weaves, but in the same shade-a
very dark garnet-was used to make
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

- AXE a pad to put under hot
HV dishes on the table by covering
with old linen.
Papers are good to lay under car
pets.
Put a newspaper folded underneath
your skating jacket to keep warm.
Put pad OF newspaper under
apron on washing day to keep the
skirt dry.
Mirrors and lamp chimneys may be
shined with newspapers.
When putting away clothes for the
winter. wrap each garment in news
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

this suit which is by Redfern. The
coat and skirt are of one sort of
velvet, part of the sleeve, the tunic
and shaped belt on the coat being
of another sort in closer weave; and
the use of the velvet in different di-
rections also gives individuality to the
costume. The vest is of plain velvet
black with a trimming of dull gilt
and blue embroidery; and tapering
belt of this embroidery, studded with
metal, partially encircles the waist.
The colors Of this model are so soft
and beautiful that the real suit has
much less bizarre appearance than its
replica in black and white. Note the
trim lines, and the short skirt which
reveals well cut walking boot with
buttoned top.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
A NICKEL-IN-THE- E-SLOT VANITY
OUTFIT.

n HE obliging people who provide
all the comforts of life in con-
~ veniently located nickel-in-the-
slot machines wherever one goes,
have thought of something new that
will especially appeal to womankind.
One slips in ones nickel and out
drops a complete little vanity outfit,
packed compactly in an envelope
case. Inside the case are two wafer
like packages, one containing face
powder and the other rouge. There
is room also for a powder puff of
white lambswool daintified by han
die of pink worsted.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
A SPACE SAVER.

III SPACE saver for the small desk
II is blotter which has metal corl
ners in which are set brass re-
ceptacles for stamps. clips, and the
like. The brass corners are heavy
and the receptacles are sunk in the
metal. the cover opening flush with
the metal corner-piece.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
Little Things of
Feminine Interest.
Notes and Novelties.

Fasten together, bore a hole In the
center, and insert the broom handle
Screw half a dozen hooks in the han
die at different intervals. Paint or
enamel any desired shade. The
younger children will enjoy having a
place of their own to hang their hats
and coats.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10
AN INEXPENSIVE CLOTHES
HANGER.

HLOTHES hangers for children can
be made out of old broom ham
~ dies. Make q cross for a stand
ard out of two pieces of wood about
fourteen inches long. three inches
wide. and one or one-half inch thick.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

VIA OTHING more certainly destroys
d " the fresh and smart effect of
n spic and span new autumn cos
u Aa tune than footwear that is
reminiscent of the summer. Dainty
as the buckled patent leather pumps
may still be in shape and condition.
their summery character will inev-
itably rob the new fall costume of
some of it's flavor; and it is a wise
woman who provides new footwear
and new glovewear-with her new
suit; even if she has to drape veil
over her summer hat.
The buttoned walking boot is still
the standard of good taste and cor
rect form with out of door costumes
of formal and semi formal nature;
but as tailored suits have grown more
fanciful in type, footwear has grown
daintier and more feminine until
nowadays the very high -heeled but
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

toned boot with top of contrasting
leather and the thinnest of tu1ied
soles between the foot and the pave
ment is no unusual accompaniment
of the well-dressed woman's tailleur.
A delightful little afternoon cos
tune, worn at the Atlantic Yacht
Club one day last week was of navy
blue crepe de chine made in clinging
lines and was accompanied by long
wristed gloves of fawn colored suede
and buttoned boots of patent leather
with fawn tops exactly matching the
shade of the gloves. This fad of
matching gloves and boot tops is a
new craze borrowed from Parlsiennes
at the French beaches, and such boots
usually have dainty pointed toes,
turned soles and Louis heels
More acceptable to the taste of the
conservative woman are conventional
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-08-10

coat is removed and placed over a
chair back of its possessor. With
this Paquin suit of terra Gotta sponge
fabric is worn a sheer little blouse Of
cream embroidered batiste over cream
Rock Island Argus., 1913-08-06
HAS A SURVEY ON
FOREIGN SCHOOLS
United States Bureau of Educa-
tion Believes Experience
of Others Valuable.

Education in foreign countries is
given special attention in a survey just
issued for free distribution by the
United States bureau of education, in
the belief that foreign experience is
particularly valuable at this time for
affording light on school problems
now under discussion in the United
States.
In vocational training especially,
the report points out, foreign expert
ence needs 70 be considered. Ger
many, Austria, Switzerland, Norway,
and other European nations have for
many years been making provision
for industrial and technical instruction
in public schools, and their systems,
while undoubtedly not adapted as a
whole TO American conditions, should
aid materially in solving the vocation.
al problem In the United States.
English-speaking countries have
been later in adapting education to in,
dustrial needs. Canada, like the Unit
ed States, is now wrestling with the
problem; a commission on industrial
training has been investigating the
subject for the past three years. Scot
land has been unusually successful In
Rock Island Argus., 1913-08-06

providing continuation schools that
avoid the danger of too early special
ization. In Ireland municipal technical
schools are transforming the city in
dustries, just as the rural industries
were transformed by the earlier agri-
cultural movement. England herself,
according to the report, lis gaining
leadership among the nations by the
close organization of all the agencies,
social and educational, directed to the
improvement of rural life" In Eng
land the necessity for better adjust
ment to industrial needs has been
brought home by the failure of the
children TO continue their education
beyond the primary cchool. 1t is esti-
mated that six out of seven English
children never appear in school after
reaching the age of Is.
Practically every civilized nation is
considered to some extent in the bu-
reau's report. Among special topics
considered are: Health work in the
schools of Great Britain; rural schools
in Denmark; the teachers syndicates
in France; education for citizenship
in Germany; instruction for emf.
grants in Italy; Robert College in Con-
stantinople-an American foundation; /;
Russia's efforts for rural uplift; and
the partial adoption in New South
Wales Of the educational program OF
the labor party.
Rock Island Argus., 1913-08-06
WHEAT THIS YEAR
NEAR The RECORD
Bank Report Shows Output and
Visible Supply to Be Most
Encouraging.
CORN ALSO SHOWS UP WELL
Rye, Barley, Cotton and Hay
VIII Exceed, 1t Is Claimed,
Yield Of Last Year.

Yields of 7s9.73O.OOO bushels Of
wheat 2,sOO.OOo.OOO bushels of corn.
LOoS, ,26e.O 900 bushels OF oats and IA
100000 bales OF cotton are estimated
'or this season in the annual crop
report prepared by the Continental and
Commercial National bank of Chicago.
The final yield or rye is figured at
B6.s54,000 bushels. barley at 00,527,-
300 bushels and hay at 66,610, 900 tons.
Wheat. the worlds greatest need.
says the report. has not only been a
good crop, but an exceptional one.
The aggregate yield OF $4,000, 900
ousheis tops last years record Of $780,
100000 bushels.and with 10000, 900
more bushels in store in elevators,
mills and on farms at the beginning
" the crop season there is available
larger supply per capita than at
my time in recent years. There is
Rock Island Argus., 1913-08-06
HOGS ARE DYING
IN SCOTT COUNTY
Several New Gases of Cholera
Found-Loss from Disease
During Year 100000.

Hog cholera was discovered yes
terday on seven farms in Princeton
township, Scott county, by G. r. Bliss,
county agriculturist, and serum for
inoculation has been ordered by tele.
graph from Kansas, the station at
Ames wiring that they we're yet unable
to furnish the vaccine.
The seven farmers have lost sever
al hundred head, believing the disease
to be infectious pneumonia and not
reporting it until yesterday, when
many of the herd were too far gone
for treatment
Scott county farmers have lost be-
tween 1000 and 5000 head this yesr
and as full grown hog brings in the
neighborhood of $50 the financial loss
has been between $4,000 and 500, 900.
AS yet there seems to De no relief
in sight, the plague being well estab-
lished in nearly every township in the
county
The Scott County Crop league is
the only organization making a fight
against cholera and is greatly handi-
capped by the inability OF the Ames
station to supply serum.
ALI the noYs all the time-The Argus.
Rock Island Argus., 1913-08-06

6, block 10, Spencer & Cases addition,
Rock Island; s44,44O.
Daniel Gordon to Louis Lumm. Part
section 4, T. S. II Forest Hice, Mo
line; s1.175.
Chas. Steinhagen and wife to Sigurd
Lunde. Lot 10, Weckel Besup Ground
So, Moline; S400.
Anna c. Welch to Catherine Brinn.
Lot 7, block 3, c. Lynd's addition,
Rock Island; $4,000.
Axel Sorting to Nelly C. DesAul-
niers. Lot 1, Valley View Place; Coal
Valley T. s.; s2,7O0
Matilda E. Kay and husband to Su-
veil E. Kay. Lot 5, block 5, Velie's
First addition; Rock Island; S1.OO.
Elijah Babcock to w. A and Fannie
Deitiker. Lot rs, block II, Buford &
Guey's addition; Rock Island; $500.
Elmer Terkelson to Amanda Ham.
mer. Lot 8, DeJaegers First addition,
Moline; s100.
Pauline DeJaeger 10 Elmer Hammer
Lot 8, DeJaeger's First addition, Mo
line; s10O.
Chase & Wright to He'll A. Holt
Lots 4-5-6. block 2, Chase & Brights
First addition, Moline; s100.
Patrick Murrin to Mamie A Smith
Lot 8 o. T. "a, G. Mixtex subdivision,
Rock Island; S100.
Lamont 6, Brien to Ray o. Roder
lex. Lot 10. Walnut Heights addition
Rock Island; $500.
Rock Island Argus., 1913-08-06

bushels from the prospect and reduced
the estimate to 2,s00,000,000.
These conditions are good through
northern Indiana, Illinois, practically
all of Iowa and northward and east
ward from Ohio. The rest of the corn
belt has had little or no rain of i'm
portance this summer. In Kansas pos
sibly the smallest yield of years will
be had. August rains can be very
helpful over a large part of the dry
area, but where the high temperatures
occurred at the time the pollen was
bursting out of the top of plant, no
recovery is to be expected.
THE great rival of corn in weight
and value is hay, and 10 large extent
it can take the place of corn when
there is a shortage of that grain. The
hay crop has been above the average.
There has been some losses in the
yield in the dry area, but in the main
the crop is the second largest on rec.
ord with a total of 66,61O,00O tons, as
against last years yield of 1881 900
tons. This large crop, with at least
one-third of last years crop still on
the farm, will repair all the breaches
that will be made by a lessened corn
yield. The hay crop this year is valued
on the farm at a billion dollars.
The rye crop, a small one in this
country, but one of the most certain
Of all products of the soil, is up to
I the previous years record.
Cotton promises at this period to
be much in excess of last year, and
ranking next to the prodigious yield OF
two years ago. The indications are
for 100000 bales, compared with
$500, 900 last year"
Rock Island Argus., 1913-08-06

over and above the domestic need
17O,000.O 900 bushels, and for the sec
ond consecutive year the United States
becomes a heavy exporter of wheat.
The second of the crops that fig
ure in the domestic use is that of oats.
Last year this crop reached the un-
precedented figure of 100000
bushels. This year conditions were
unfavorable to the fullest possible
yield, so that the total crop does not
exceed 1000, 100000 bushels. Only
twice before did the crop pass the
/ 200, ,000, 600 -bushel mark. so that the
yield is above the average. Iowa was
little affected by the weather condi-
tions, being practically normal, and
the state comes close to raising its
maximum of zoe. 900, 900 bushels. Curl
ously, right across the Mississippi, the
Illinois product is barely above half a
J bumper crop. A like variation ap-
pears between Indiana, short, and
Ohio, moderate in yield. In the south
west the later ripening OF oats caused
the yield to fall much below that of
wheat on proportionate scale. Mich
igan, Wisconsin and Minnesota will
produce big yields, the two latter
states probably exceeding a year ago.
! The Dakotas suffered from the same
causes that injured the wheat crop.
CORN BELOW RECORD.
This years corn crop will not be
record one. Our correspondents,
early In the month, before the burning
temperatures swept through the south.
west and Ohio valley. figured on a
repetition of last years crop, but We
cannot ignore the heavy damage that
has occurred in Nebraska, Kansas
Oklahoma, Texas and portions Of Mis-
souri, and Illinois since that time,
which has cut Of at least SOC, ,000, 900