Evening star., 1913-11-02
NEW DANCES CREATE MANY STYLES

who mingle in any social pastimes will
forsake the short frock. but there are
certain occasions and certain figures on
which the train Is necessary. All skirts
and dancing. although the majority of
them are hitched up in front by some
hidden arrangement of drapery.
The only kind of tratn that made any
impression this autumn in Paris is one
that hangs from the waist. is caught to
the skirt and hangs on the floor for
distance of two feet Its edges are
turned back toward the middle in the
same manner as the coat tails OF the
French military costumes This gives
, an opportunity to display a brilliant lin
ing which is a trick the French Ike and
which they stretch to it's utmost capacity
today.
If one orders a gown with such a train
it should be understood at the outset
that II cannet be held up and that 1t must
be- left to lie on the floor. 1t is a stately
affair, SO it must be worn for formal
occasions and has no connection what
ever with turkey-trotting and tangong.
The sharp, pointed train which Callot
has always exploited is more or less in
fashion. 1t Is more familiar to the ma
jority of people than the new kind of
train which was only invented in Sep
tember. And one of the advantages of
be easily held up by a small hidden loop
which Is slipped over the wrist or the
finger.
Few afternoon gowns are long. One
rarely sees a hem that touches the floor,
although some Of the best dressmakers
advocate 1t as a becoming fashion to
large figures who need their lines length
ened from neck to ankle. After all. 1t is
difficult to make long skirt beneath any
OF the prevailing tunics which. whether
or not they are wired, seem to demand
short skirt which has fullness at the
knees If not at the ankles. However,
some Of the clever dressmakers do it.
While there Is no return to the muslin
petticoat there Is constant need for
short skirts of china silk or chiffon cloth
with lace ruffles and fanciful trimming
below the knees. The latter is needed to
hide the ankles when the skirt l. slashed
and gives graceful effect when one
dances.
These underskirts are sold in the shops,
but one can make them at home from in
expensive messaline in flesh pink and
pale yellow and dresden blue.
The first thought for trimming them is
Of roses-tiny button ones, bedded in
clusters of green leaves-but these are
not necessary and they are somewhat
expensive. although here again a woman
can employ her needle in a satisfactory
way. She can easily learn how to make
roses iEOIIl DIS OF Sdtln, SILK or cnl1On
II she goes into the work for the sake
Of beauty and perfection and not for
effectiveness 1t would be wise to omit
such flowers, as they take hours to do
when they are done well.
Nearly all the skirts of today are lined.
which makes a petticoat unnecessary.
and incidentally contributes to the good
hang Of the skirt But such Innings as
are used are cut off above the shoe tops
and are as scanty as the outer skirt.
They are finished with two-inch hem
and made of good strong silk.
White silk is used more often than any
other kind, even with dark cloth skirts.
fact which does not appeal to the ma
Jority Of women with economical ideas.
In evening gowns there is a tendency to
use shell pink silk which is finished from
the knees down with a lace ruff1e; but
whatever the color. the lining is in the
form Of a petticoat and it relieves one
from the necessity of wearing the other
garment.
The jersey silk bloomers which women
now wear over their corsets to take the
place Of a petticoat are convenient under
all skirts.