The chronicle=news., 1913-01-07

New York. Jan. 7.---Tha holidays
are a thing of the past and the sea
ron Is now in fuli swing, 10 remain
active until the beginning OF Lent
That means that everywhere. at the
opera. at the theatre. at the his ho-
tells and restaurants. patroni@cd by
exclusive society and wouid-be socl-
riy. not TO mention III. various socity
functions at private houses. the sea-
sons most exquisite styles are dis
played and may he studied 10 adyan-
IlF" The most salient OF th" char
nct"rlsiic features OF present day
fashilhs undoubtedly Is the decided
favor Ihown To the slim figure,
Gowns and coats seem to b" made for
the slender woman exclusively and
the woman who Is not slender finds
llttI. sympathy and has To make the
best OF the situation by dressing In
such n manner as to create the Illus
ion or being simmer than sh. really
is
Another. rather ti!kiug feature
l. tn" r.apEoaranc" In many Interest
Ing forms of the blouse. The short
hlous" Is seen on many evening
GOWNS and l. relief from the sur
plioc effect so long In vogue. The
Russian bious" worn so much this
winter for street suits Ii doubtless
responsible for It's popularity. /, ha,
proved so satisfactory and 20 gcncr-
ally becoming that II, lrfiucno. IL
now felt on all classes OF clothes. h"
they suits. gowns or lea gowns.
TIL" very newest blouse Is loopcd
up much below the waist line. som"
"f them even extending to til" hips.
aud haN. almost the effect OF the lit
tie French dresses that children have
worn FOR ~ long. Tn. Shor, houses.
which start with y high waist line In
many eases. 'lroop considerably and
hav" u very full effect. some OF them
almost "onc"niing the rirdic or belt.
MANY Of the cy"nin; wraps thix
season show this hlous. effect. III"
loop.d under portion starting half
way between the kncc aud tn" waist
line. Th!. blouse movement on the
evening WRAPS confines itself prinrI-
paily to tn" hnck q fib" garment.
however. and with tn" center droor-
Ing graceful In effect.
Their. arc many little secrets to bc
mastered In tho manipulation OF the
blouse to give II the affect 1t should
have. The fuilncss 4, tn" bottom
should b" drawn we'll to the sidss. so
that II will hang tlat!y in frcnt and
at the back. In heavy materials the
fullncss is laid In fiat picats. Tho
proper amoun; OF bagkin-ss depends
largely upon the Individual. for not
all figures can stand this extreme
plated skirts women do seem to be
getting away from the tight. cionc
fitting effect of skirt aud waist and
|; seems as if they goou would he
able to mcvc quit" comfortably in
their clothes
Tho cutlway coat first made It's ap.
pcnrar"e In the very shor; coat. then
gradually bccam. elongated. I, was
50 universally iccoming--to the s,cn-
d.r-thnt IL soon came into general
favor even among thosc not exactly
irit"i for the style" Thc natural
evolution OF the cu;away Is the red
in Soto. \ few of these rc,!ingotcs
were shown in the fall and III. only
reason they We're not adopted moe
was that the opcnncss OF the cat did
NOS afford sufficient protection for
winter wear and In. Russian blouse
offered go many advantages with its
long straight lines and high collar
that II easily won ou' as "A first favor
itc. Bat with the approach of sprins
these redingotcs promise to b""om"
very popular. They have 80 many
advantages to commend them for
spring wear and for three picc" suit,
they will be ideal. for they are made
sufficiently open to show the gown
underneath
/, is extremely doubtful whether
we shall see much more rullncss In
the skirts next season than We have
In the seasons past. during which the
scant skirt has held sway. for these
rcdingotc> do not permit Of much
fullncss beneath them. The only
skirt SO far which admits of any
fullncss IL the fine flat plated one,
aud these are SO held in with tapes
tina, It Is only n seeming fullncss.
Hats continue small and the close
fitting effects show no sign of abcy-
ancc. Long shaped turbans that look
like boats with n tiny bow at the top.
front and back have been much worn.
Toducs of velvet that resemble bath
ing caps with two velvet rabbit ears
standing up in front are also very
popular.
There is always suggestion OF
tulle at this time Of the year, and
aside from the tullc hats which have
been introduced for evening there are
some small velvet hats with silk Tam
o'Shanter crowns and larger crown
a. IL Va.