The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1913-05-31
SPIKY and AGGRESSIVE
HEADGEAR SEASONS VOGUE

4 Inc angularltleS DanlSheQ from
| gowns have revenged themselves by
shooting forth in headgear. One
searches in vain for hat of an I'M
obtrusive character. 1t seems as if each
hat Wed with it's neighbor in the art
of being spiky and aggressive
! Comparatively few feathers curl. and
these only the aristocrats of the plume
family: plumes that are so rich and
rare that they are above the mode,
/ and like geniuses in art and liters ture
give laws but do not bend to them.
! The majority of little plumes stani
/ end, opposed to every ornament o the
/ hat. If there are two one turns one
way and the other in the opposite di-
rection. Rows of spikes run around a
brim and vast tufts stick forth from
the rear Is warning to beholGers
! that the owner is not to be approa ched
without entreaty to give room.
1t isthe fad of the spring this ..g-
sressive arrangement of feathers. and
must become less liked as it spreN ds.
| When every little chicken feather las
liberty to defy the proprieties by da sh-
ing against the face of an inoffensiVe
neighbor in a crowd the woman of good
taste will incline toward the strictly
tailored hat with big handsome BOWS
for the early spring.
few sailors are shown, but they
are not nearly so much in vogue this
year as the rolled silk hat that VITA
a band of velvet about the hrinl.
Very soon the garden hat will have
a more pronounced character blu; ri
the moment a few novelties are seen:
just the old tulle environed, beflowareI
big hats, although often with stream
ers of wide ribbon. This is a pretty
enough fashion for the garden, but 100
unconventional for street wear in cities.
and as few people have gone to their
summer homes yet the. small hat still
has the field and gets all the attention.
The manpfsh vest is marked fea-
ture of the summer wardrobe. 1t is
made in pique. piped with a contrast
ing color. tan with black and looks
almost precisely like a mans garment
excepting that it is little more trig
about the waist and has finished ,ints.
Worn with a short and plain jacket it
helps to give the simple costume a GER
tain air of jauntiness. They are CT
course distinctly a possession of the
younger women and should not be seen
upon the grandmother. An assur ption
of masculinity is merely whimsical in
a pretty girl, but absurd in an elderly
person, An advantage of the vest Is
that it is washa BILE and one may have
several of different kinds, making a
nice variety in the tailored costumes. |
As the period of summer travel &p- !
prca ches this will be more appreciated. |
New wraps are a combination of
mantle and jacket. some very graceful |
in outline. Chiffon is a favorite ma
terial and admits of almost no other |
trimmings than lace. There should he, /
of course, a silk lining which shows |
through the chiffon and gives body as
well as tone to the exceedingly fra gile |
stuff
The fitted bodice is the most definite
change of. the spring from the winter
styles. Little by little, the wais. line
has decended and been drawn until we
may seen see entirely trim and c'Csciy .
fitting corsages replacing the bClgirg
lines of the present Already the tail
or made costume inclines toward this
style in the adoption of something in
vest shape.
Paris is exhausting ingenuity in ring
ing changes on The tunic; it is long. 1t
is pointed. it is ruf1ied, it is short and !
plain; but the infinite variety of It's
shape must ere long be finished and
then it is but the affair of an hour to
Danish it as the Russian blouse has
been banished. In fashion it is as with
wisdom at Athens, one grows weary of
hearing about a good thing and the
other reason than an imperative need
of something new.
The accessories of the toilet, almost
frightened from the scene last winter,
have reappeared in full strength this
spring Collars and jabCts, small Bows,
and stocks of linen, both pleated and
thrust themselves at one
on the thresholds of the leading stores
ana tempt TO the expenditure Oh vast
sums of money for small things.
The medici collar is here again after
being rejected last season and with
some chance of holding favor. Many Of
the handsomest pieces for the eek
are made up in this shape and it is
exceedingly becoming to the average
especially when made up in
mousseline de sole or tulle. Black ana
white Brussels net may be charming
ly combined in a falling ruff and
medici collar for an elderly woman or
one in half mourning. A girlish model
is a simple collar of embroidered linen
with a wide fall of hemstitched chiffon,
adorned with a row of very minute
crystal buttons and finished at the
throat by a bow of ribbon.
A neckband for a pretty blouse may
be made of black velvet surmounted
by a medici ruff chiffon edged with
beads. The bow has long ends.
Ample collarettes completely cover
ing the opening of the jacket are made
of brussels net with narrow ruff1e of
chiffon to make them more airy look
ing. They are exceedingly serviceable.
There is almost no limit to the Uses
of good brussels lace collar, anu If
few bits of old lace of this sort, now
is the time to bring them out and
make use of them There are as mary
turned down collads as there are
standing collars But the stiff stand
ing linen collar is now rarely .;epn:
softness and transparency still bold the