Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-06


features that one desires.
re YOU really must get the value of last
autumn's clothes, YOU can do so this
spring. provided they were not left-overs
from the spring before. To help you de-
eide on your wardrobe here are few of
the new features in this seasons clothes.
Apply them to your leftovers and your
purse with care and Judgment and you
may be saved days of doubt.
First coats are short, very short. it you
leave out the farng Godet coat that
reaches nearly to knees which Paquin in
sists upon and which is shown as an al
tentative from the short kind.
There are many kinds of the short coat.
No one style is put forward as the best,
and 1t is quite possible for you to choose
at least four of them for summer clothes
and feel assured that each is fashion
able
There is the loose one that reaches to
the waist line which has few curves to 1t
and no well defined silhouette; it is made
UP of broad revers Chinese sleeves that
have no arHholes, wide cuffs, straight
fronts that hang away from the waist or
fasten double breasted just at the waist
line.
There are variations even to this little
garment for certain designers have added
a beaver tail peplum at the front or the
back or rather two of them in front, one
al each side. Look upon the latter fea-
ture with considerable doubt unless you
are entirely nat below the waist; and
even then do not add to 1t skirt which
has the drapery caught up in front under
these pendant panels.
The belted Balkan blouse is even newer
than this loose jacket. and it is far more
suitable for street wear and Tor tnih
serges or the Bedford cord suiting when
has been revived for coat and skirt use
and looks very much Ike the one-tlme
popular covert cloth This kind of short
Jacket is decidedly military and can
only be worn by a straight figure The
most important feature of 1t is the sleeve
which does not match the other materla
and is usually in a combination OF viva
colors.
To the majority this idea will not ap-
peal; for one thing the resemblance 10
Jockey is a bit too striking; but there Is
no reason against carrying out the 1asn-
ion by putting in sleeves of another FAB
ric in the same color. dark blue serge
coat may have sleeves or blue Ialile SIN
and the necessary touch OF color De
given by a rolling collar of japanese red
crepe or silk and a belt to match. If the
latter is too conspicuous then patent
leather belt with buckle OF itself or OF
gilt Is quite as good
X 4
These separate sleeves, as they are
called. are put into the lining of the coat.
and the outer armhole hangs loosely over
them. finished with a cable cord or SOU
tache braiding, which has been revived to
a slight degree because 1t is military,
and we are to have q very, very military
season.
It is simple to put the sleeve In the
armhole in the regulation manner and
cover the joining by cord. II one de-
sires a change from the conventional to
the bizarre and yet is not willing to go to
any extreme length there is a safe COM
promise in sleeves Of the DULY inquired
silks and ratines with which the shops
abound Many OF them are exquisitely
colored whether they owe their origin
to cubist. futurist or post-impressionist
inspiration.
Dark blue sleeves which have an indis-
tinct plaid or dull-hued rose over the
surface are not at all daring In q Balkan
coat of blue faille or crash. and one can
soften even these colors by deep grena-
der cuffs Of white embroidered linen such
as YOU will see on that popular Balkan
model by Paquin which so many OF the
American shops are showing. Her orig
jnaI coat had a wide rolling collar OF
white linen to match in much the same
shape worn by bloomer-clad schoolboys.
There are many audacities in the new
skirts from Paris, and several of them
will be copied here. Houses like that OF
Drecoll will not use the slash at front or
back. whereas the greatest of all the con-
servatives, Jean Worth. likes 1t immense