Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-05-04

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III " l some people even
hMf ! have TO work
MA VEA ~ II taxes h G
VIA ~ brains of those
who sell clothes to
whet the appetite of women by constant
~ displaying new things in the windows
The dressmakers do not have this method
of expoitat ton open TO them so they are
the only ones who profit by the cessation
in clothes making twice a year. They
may not call this cessation IL profitable
way of spending time. but it really is SO,
because their work is so arduous and
nerve rackinS that it is wonder they
do not break down altogether instead of
in spots.
Possibly there may have been time
when women prepared all their gowns in
advance of the season and turned their
thoughts to other things soon as the
| task was over; but the shops and the
fashion makers sec to ii that this does
! not happen in these days. woman
wants to buy new things because she gets
| tired of the old, and that is one of the
| fundamental reasons for the changing
| fashions and for the improbability of a
return to the old method which the OPP
timists prophesy and the critics urge.
| 1t is this quality in the mind of every
woman which makes her indulgent to-
| ward the gown or the hat made of cheap
| material if it has style; and the shops.
| knowing this full well, do an enormous
business i'm cheap copies of expensive
! fashions. The purchase of them is not
/ confined to the women with little money,
but they have become desirable to the
/ woman with millions.
| The fashion for the futurist style
; brought in a vast number of clothes in
! colors that are brilliantly dark. For dec
] AIDES we have had white serge as the
| first choice for spring. followed by a host
of white and light tan and sometimes
pale blue and a pale red NO one mas
thought of choosing vivid dark blue and
| red and brown. for they belong to the
winter offerings and were put away with
the first green leaves.
This method has changed. The dyers
and the designers have Joined In giving
us such marvellous hues of strong colors
that women cannot resist them. They
make the pale shades look negative and
without character. but how they will
make one feel when the really hot wealth
er comes is yet to be known.
of brilliant red and hope to wear them
until July with some degree of comfort;
If they are journeying to cool chimes
where there Is mountain or sea, then their
choice of red will be all very well: but If
they intend to wear it in the city near
ii they will find summer more of a bur-
den than ever.
House gowns are of brilliant blue,
| touched with Japanese or Egyptian red
and sometimes bit Of purple; there are
sleeves of cubist silk coming out from en-
tirely demure frocks of deep brown or
black; there are Japanese red evening
gowns without any color, or with a touch
OF purple And it may be safely said
that this is the first season in which this
tone has been offered. In past ages no
one would consider red and warm wealth
er combination to be endured.
| While purple is one of the strong col
ors Of the day. it has not become popular
for suits or one-piece frocks for street
! wear, but it is having an immense popu-
larity for evening gowns.
| Some of the best of the French impOr-
tatiOns were in this color. carried out
from shoulder strap to hem in the same
Tone or built up from waist to shoulder
| with white tulle or white shadow lace
! Callot sent over a frock of the kind of
purple one sees in fuchsia, which was
i transparent from the waist by means of
| purple chiffon, which went plainly over
| the shoulders and hung as a handker-
! chief over the arms. The edges We're fin
| ished with tiny banding of rhinestones.
| The waist line was made larger by
drapery of purple satin and he'd at the
| side by purple Hover.
/ X
i N
which made it available for brilliant after
noon functions or allowed the wearer to
substitute it for an evening coat, although
| ii was entirely too attractive to be cast
aside when one entered the house. 1t was
| long and made of changeable taffeta. The
lining was in a dull shade of orange and
there was a high Robespierre collar roll
ing well back TO the shoulders.
| Liking the idea of this, one woman had
! a coat mace Of taffeta with a purple
| chiffon lining to hide the seams and
box-plaited quilting at the edges. The
sleeves were broad and bell shaped. and
the cutaway line in front was rounded IN
stead of sharp. and the back was caught
up into a pannier effect and held with
small purple satin roses.
| This method of having a low gown
transparent from the waist for the even
ing and covering it with fancifui coat
i'm silk for afternoon affairs is gaming III
favor and is a very good one because il
| gives two costumes III one. The young
girls are carrying il out in gowns OF deep
| rose pink and Chinese blue and Japanese
red with coats that are less Vatican in
their effect so they will serve for the So
| cai outdoor affairs in the summer.
/, 1t is always All economical thing to get
| brilliant dark colurs and especially so III
summer, because one can wear them con-
stantIy without having them cleaned. The
| one trouble is that they look hot. the
| way to offset this is 10 give them up
| during the worst of the hot season and
pray that they will hold over until au-
tumn.
| There are certain kinds of clothes that
are not needed by the average woman
during the six midsummer weeks, because
1 she would not indulge in Sayety II she
| could and all she wants is enough white
/ things to carry her through until Sep
/ tember 1t is the woman Who lives gay,
social life i'm summer who needs all the
new clothes, and the woman who goes
away for a short vacation to some place
where she must appear well dressed.
! Always i'm the middle of the season
| when fashions quite well settled there
hobs up an entirely new thing which has
evidently been kept surprise. 1t is