Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1913-03-11

COLUMN, oxford Democrat. South Paris. Ne.
Eiarper's Bazaar on House Gowns.
All the skill and dextsrity of q
woman's mind and fingers is called upon
in order to create gown which 10
going to be her most intimate companion
for day in and day out-the house gown.
Hunt about the counters Of stores for
smart looking cloth or street velvet, but
be cautious against buying an oddly
which will cause hours of regret or
moments of pang and rage.
1t is perfectly true that a chic.looking
piece of material will alone make q
gown, devoid of trimming beyond a
sheer lace collar, or woven girdle that
some truly artistic thought has prompt
ed. But more happily select q plain
cbarmeuse or satin than an uncertainty.
A great many women find this type of
gown problem, and it does take much
consideration. Remember that it is to
be worn in the house, again to be seen
at lunch where a coat has given pro-
lection, and again Is called into service
for afternoon functions, to be worn with
or without hat.
No wonder woman FUCKERS her
brow and thinks with serious intentpfss.
But it can be done we'll, and good idea
for such a gown ia combination OF
materials. For instance, the gown when
worn outside will be covered, short of
the bottom, by the top coat; but II is
practical to have tue lower part of the
gown Of velvet or cloth. This leaves the
bodice and the upper part of the skirt to
to 10 made of satin or crepe-so much
worn this year-or a crepe brocace en-
chautiugly designed in q great variety OF
color. For several years one has felt
chiffon necessary as part of these
gowns. But we are putting aside the
necessity of chiffon with true feminine
met holds of radical reform, and giving
it's place to the supple satins, which
make the long tight kimono sleeve and
Robespicrre or fat, turn-down collar.
This collar is buttoned back on TO the
bodice by wee little fancy buttons-thres
on each lape,-with blind buttonholes
embroidered alongside. This affords a
lightweight top to a gown which other
wise would he too heavy for the wearer's
comfort.
Fortunately the dominating spirit of
the American woman does not allow her
to become slave to fashion. An idea
which her very charming and piquant
French sister has not had the courage
to reject, the ultra-smart American
woman will no doubt adopt. Those un.
comfortable fashions that French de.
signers throw out AZ bait sometimes
catch us; but, as rule, we will use only
what suits our need, and let the rest fly
to the winds. Therefore, in the matter
of skirts, when a woman must walk, she
is not going to be hampered by one that
il too tight for her steps. Cleverly she
will retain the straight look and insert q
pleat to give her comfort.
House gowns is a rather elastic term,
which may be divided into two or three
classes. For receptions and bridge one
wears the neck cut quito decidedly lower
than for typical luncheon frock. The
type of gown slides almost impercepti-
Div into what has been formerly used for
the theatre, since really low dinner
gowns have come to be used for theatre
and supper. The skirts are cut with
train, and are usually made of dark
colors. Mulberry, deep shades of gray
or green, and brown, are favOrite and
becoming colors for the American
woman. The tops can be of sheer lace
combined with the material itself, or all
of lace, and long or three-quarter length
sleeves can be determined by each
woman's own preference. 1t is a day of
long sleeves with points or ruff1es ex-
tended over the hand; their length has
little to do with the fact that no collar
Is worn.
Satins and charmeuse silks are i'm
portant fabrics to use, for they drape 30
gracefully into long, soft lines, and give
one slender appearance to begin with.
Another smart combination is a MORE
top and a velvet skirt, with pieces of the
velvet applied to the bodice. Narrow
strips of brown fur add tremendously to
the effect. A coat of velvet, simply
made, buttoned to the throat and cut
away, will transform 1t into costume.
Belts are either very narrow or very
wide. The narrow ones are of jeweled
gold or silver ribbon, fat bands of rib
bon or velvet ending in buckle or stiff
bow, or two or three folds Of the dress
material. The wide belts are sometimes
wrinkled and sometimes laid in regular
folds. They are finished in various
ways.
Sashes on house gowns show some odd
arrangements. Long knotted ends like
an abbes sash are seen, round fiower-like
rosettss and bows with long loops plac-
ed diagonally or vertically. One end to
the sash is az FREQUENTLY seen as two,
While the round-cut neck, slightly
low, is worn in the afternoon by many
women to whom the style is becoming,
there are many others who do not like it
or who cannot wear it because of thin
throat. For these women the yoke of
shadow lace with plain high transparent
collar is best, or the newer pleated net
front like mans dress shirt. This has
the collar tucked around in the same
width tucks as the vertical ones in the
front.