The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1913-02-16

velour ue ldlne, d sou, silky WOODEN
tissue. Later in the season it was dis
placed by the new satins and silks,
but it is now predicted that ve.ou
de laine as well as drap de laine will
be extremely popular during the COM
ing spring. Both materials are amen
81 to draping, and both are becom-
ing because of their soft surface. All
colors look well in these materials,
and those in Bordeaux and yellows are
especially attractive. The popularity
of these yellows is really astonishing.
Every piece of stuff seems a shade
different. All are seductive save the
sulphur; and in satin, and worn by a
black-haired woman, even his is not
without virtue.
Citron is a shade that will go into
cary spring, also suede. Such tones
as chalk, putty n oyster have been
modish a long time, but they may be
continued through another season,
since the fashion dealers ppe -
have exhausted the whole range of col
ors. Black was their refuge three
years ago, but now with the black
are colors, and without doubt the
dyers are in despair. But they have
never been found wanting, and prob
ably shades to be worm next month
will differ only slightly from those we
rave been seeing.
The latest styles show dresses with
a pain tunic in front and a. draped
back, or vice versa. The draping is
flat and does not ooh at all out Of
place in front. Just so it cuts the
figure bias, or straight up and down,
and that is all that is necessary. 1t
is predicted that all the dressy after
noon costumes of satin and silk for
spring wear would v the little train
like that of the evening dress this
winter. The idea is pretty and ex-
tremely graceful, but it is impraeti-
cal in a frock if one thinks of wear
ing it on the street.
Fashion experts say hat crepe de
chine, after a long absence, will re-
turn to favor during the coming sea-
son. The material is soft and cling
ing, qualities so eminently suited to
! the modes of the momen that it is a
wonder the designers of fashions have
not called it into service long before
this. Taffetas will not be fashionable,
although they show some wonderful
effects in co1ors. But the material
does not drape prettily, and even the
most supple quality has a way OF
standing out from the figure which
interferes with the Silhouette.
A new brown yellow. that is beauti-
full in any material, is that of oriental
tobacco, a rich, brilliant dye that ar
rived during the winter. 1t is, of
course, much lighter h Havana
brown, yet has the same general tone.
This is nothing more than a soft, deep
gold, something like Did fashioned tan,
yet with more yellow. The oriental to-
bacco is superb in velvet, also in satin
and crepe de chine. 1t does not GO well
with other combinations or colors,
however.
The very simple effect of blouses
and corsages will be modified during
the coming spring season, and en-
broidery will be used, not much, blu
enough to make a change and have
things look new. The Grecian effects
will be repeated I'll in afternoon and
evening gowns, which means thai
drapery will be used as much as ever
Where draping is not employed, tiny
knife pleats will run straight up and
down in the center of the back and
front. Sometimes wen with these
plaits drapery will fall to at least IN
side. Corseted, as the fashionable
woman is, the designer may now loop
goods on her form to his hearts con-
tent, and this he surely will continue
to do.
Poplin in silk, in wool, in cotton
any kind of poplin, in fact, promises
to be much used. There are plain pop
Inns and MORE poplins n brocaded
poplins, and one often finds at least
two of these varieties combined in the
same costume. Other material to be
in demand for elaborate street or aft
ernoon semi-tailored costumes are silk
whipcord, heavy bengaline, and the
still heavie sole regence.' In all OF
these there is a conspicuous use OF
buttons, of which there is an ava
lanche this season, showing the great
est variety and originality. Among
the wool materials appropriate for the
simpler tailored suit, h real costume
trotteur, there are serges, Bedford
cords, new Weaves of Whipcords, pop
Inns, ratines, drap de laine, and some
other less exploited varieties from
which to choose.
An over blouse affords a clever way
of introducing the skirt material in the
blouse to a Goa suit. Often the ma
terial is too heavy to be used for the
entire waist, but if the over blouse
is developed in the cloth the under
waist of sheer chiffon or silk wolfe
gives a dainty and light effect.
Often the underwaist is of sheer "a
tiste or white net, which can be laun-
dered when soiled. and sometimes the
over blouse is not attached to the
skirt, so that it can be worn on bleak,
chilly days, when such an addition Is
a decided comfort. The little square
shoulder yoke often appears in back
as we'll as in front.
Ribbon will play an important part
in the new millinery in the shape OF
crown bands, streamers, chip loops.
bows and quill effects in satin. faille,
mOire and taffeta, WeayeS, Rose. stem