davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
FULNESS IN BLOUSES.

one Of the features OF the new bouses
is the increased amount Of fulness. The
shirt waist now actually justhes its
name and "blouses." not only in front
and In back. but AT the sides. This
negligee air is delightfully."- becoming to
the tall slender girl. but 1t Is wofuily
trying to the woman with a more mature
figure. II reaches it's climax I'm the new
Russian biouses. The new adaptation OF
the genuine Russian blouse is not AZ long
as its prototype. for IT reaches only 10
the hip line, but il possesses the same
loose. baggy effect and like II Is belted
around the waist. 1t has a low. rolling
collar, one of the thick. bunchy collars
which have been adapted from the East
ern costumes. soft turnback cuffs and
occa sionallv "A yoke. The sleeves are
slightly full with the ease and comfort
that distinguish the bishop sleeve. and
the funess at the wrist is taken care or
by tiny tucks and fancy buttons. When
a blouse Of this style Is fashioned from
ratine or crash III one of the new, brill
liant colorings It is positively irresistible
and If the woman with figure" forSets
that II was designed for the tall, svelte
creature she 20 ardenty enyies 1t vii!
not be surprising. IL has certain know
ing little air which argues well for its
hearty acceptance. but its very simplicity
may bring about it's downfall through
an overwhelming popularity.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
CREPE DE CHINE VERY SMART.

There is nothing smarter or more SER
viceable 10 wear with the tailored suit
than crepe de chine. Blessed with the
stanchest of wearing qualities, crepe de
chine comes from the laundry in far bet
ter condition than muslin. il shakes
quickly out of wrinkles and creases does
not show dust and other signs of travel.
and possesses such an attractive sheen
that il is sufficiently dressy for almost
any occasion when a blouse would be cor
rect. even when it is simply finished with
lingerie collar and cuffs The smartest
models are severely plain. but they de-
rive all the necessary chic from the cut,
which is decidedly mannish in effect
They are fashioned on lines very similar
to the mannish shirts of wash silks. The
new crepe de chine. like the wash SILK.
also comes in stripes. ranging from the
tiny pin stripes to those quarter OF an
inch in width. The simplest models have
the front fastening, with small fancy but
tons continuing the color note OF the
stripes arranged in groups OF three or
six. and soft turnover collar and cuifs
Of lingerie or Organdie, finished with
scalloped edge. likewise repeating the
color of the stripes. Others show the
pleats in front and in back. and some
very chic ones display the pleated vest.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
BOUDOIR SECRETS

As little gifts to the fastidious woman
with everything there are dainty
sachets Of satin encased in leatherette
boxes. matching in color the satin and
harmoniZing with the fragrance of the
powder. The lily-of- the-valley perfume
comes through Il satin covering which
is disclosed on opening the leather box
The heliotrOpe sachet is particularly TO
be recommended because IL is extremely
difficult to find heiotrope odor which
is true to the delicacy OF the little purple
flower Most scents branded as heliotrope
smell more like vanilla extract. The jas
mine is equally true to the real scent OF
this Southern blossom.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
COMBINATION OF MATERIALS.

The vogue for combining materials "f
different types is allowed 10 run riot on
the new blouses. and cotton fabrics are
combined with silk. and even chinoh'
with reeklessness that is startling 70
the woman who has been taught 10 re-
snect the different classes OF fabrics.
Collar and cuffs of ratine or epohge' III
one of the new pretty shades, VIII be
used TO decorate a blouse of white crepe
de chine, while silk trimmings will APP
has been used as trimming for blouses
of the finest embroidery.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26

lost sight of in the array of embrOid-
cred blOuSeS.
The Bulgarian embroidery has been
found most effective on these Whlte
crepe waists The beauty Of the BuI-
garian embroidery lies wholly in the
colOrings, for there Is no such thing
as a distinctive Bulgarian stitch. Any
embroidery stitch may be used, and al
most any pattern. but the design must
be outlined in black if it is To be called
Bulgarian The blending Of the reds ana
blues. greens and yellows, into crude
but on the whole artistic combination is
likewise characteristic of this type OF
embroidery. The triangle. which is used
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
A FEW EXAMPLES OF THE NEW
SLEEVES.

SIeeve showing the undersIeeve, or
lower portion, Of the printed material,
and the upper sleeve cut in one with
the body Of the waist. The strap is OF
the plain material. with buttons Of
white trimmed in color, and the cuff is
Of embroidery. The fuiness Of the upper
part of this sleeve is gathered into a
cuff Of striped material. combined with
the plain material, and fastened with
a button combining tho two coIorings.
Pretty model for sleeve Of sheer ma.
terial. The fuIness may be taken care
of by shirrins or by fine tueks, and is
gathered into cuff Of embroidery or
lace. A smart sleeve for ratine or one
Of the heavier materials. The slight
fuiness is restrained by tiny tucks
marked by buttons, and the cuff 10 .
soft pointed turnback affair.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
cREPES RIVAL COTTON WOLFE.

Cotton wolfe has a serious rival in the
new crepes To be sure, the wolfe washes
far better than the crepe. which has a
most annoying habit Of shrinking al
most beyond the limits Of endurance
but one can make allowance Tor this
when buying or making the waist This
seeming defect almost vanishes from
memory when one gazes at the new
crepes, with their effective plumeus en-
broidcry or rich Oriental borders. The
blouse of plain white crepe has been
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
SLEEVE CUFFS.

When the fulness is stopped at the
elbow IL is generally met with deep cum,
often Of a contrasting material. These
sleeve cuffs are particularly effective in
lace. This style OF adding a deep cuff TO
the elbow has brought In its train the use
of a multitude Of contrasting materials.
The printed cottons are ideal for the
sleeves of a shirtwaist one of the sleeves
illustrated I'm the sketch shows a deep
cuff or undersleeve, Of the printed cot
ton. The upper sleeve. however, is not
full, but suggestive of the kimono being
cut in one piece with the body Of the
blouse. Sometimes this long cuff is
slashed at the bottom edge and turned
back to display facing OF material like
that of the upper part of the sleeve.
Tucks are most convenient method OF
restraining the fulness when il is not de-
sirable TO allow it to fall to the wrist and
be gathered into the turnback cuff. These
tucks are sometimes taken across the in
side seam on either side of the elbow TO
permit OF freedom of movement; again,
as in the Illustration. they appear on the
front of the sleeve and are headed with
buttons and loops.
BElL.SHAPED SLEEVE POPULAR.
The bell-shaped sleeve has returned to
favor. and there is much 10 recommend 1t
when II Is fashioned from lace or from a
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
USED AS FAVORS.

These little sachets In their attractive
boxes are used for luncheon or dinner
favors. the fragance and the color max
ing it possible to carry out an effective
color scheme with the floral decorations
Of the table. They are equally acceptable
az bon voyage gifts. The price of 81 each
brings them within the limits of many
mock OF hooks
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
NEW IDEAS IN SOAPS.

The fad FOR floral extracts has brought
back into favor the refreshing lavender
odor which many generations have en-
joyed. Lavender toilet water became
popular. and now there is the soap. The
slight odor left on the hands after wash
ing with this soap is delightful. The
price OF 30 cents cake is very reasona-
bic. compared 10 that OF many OF the i'm
ported soaps
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
SACHET BOXES.

These sachet boxes are included in the
larger and handsomer gift boxes. which
are quite beautiful enough to appeal to
the most pampered The case Is of
morocco leather and is about the size OF
the travelling jewel case. Like the latter
1t has "A handle. making 1t easy to carry
when travelling. The case alone would
be handsome gift but it is made doubly
acceptable by the contents. There is an
extra large sized bottle Of the concen-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
WIDE STRIPES POPULAR.

The persistent demand for color III the
new shirts makes the wider stripes more
popular than the pin stripes, but on the
swaists made from the latter the color
scheme is accentuated by long silk ties
coming from beneath the turnover coli
lar and extending TO the waist Inc
through slashcs in the centre pleat.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26

trated essence IN any desired floral odor:
"a large bottle Of the toilet water, one OF
the new sachet boxes, box of face pow
der and lip stick in a gilt case. While
the price of $50 may be expensive. still the
off is good value for the money expended
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26

The changes introduced into the new
sleeves are particularly noticeable. prob
ably because the reign of the kimono
sleeves has been so long and so undis-
puted. The kimono sleeve has not en-
trely lost caste by any means. 1T could
hardly be expected to pass from favor
when the demand for everything Oriental
is SO very strong and persistent. 1t Is
shown on some Of the most recent models
Of afternoon and evening gowns, where
the elbow and three-quarter length
sleeves have been used in preference to
the long sleeve, and it is still very promi-
nent on the draped wraps.
ADAPTATION OF KiMONO SLEEVE.
The kimono style, however, cannot be
adapted with comfort to the long sleeves
Women are not willing to bind their arms
to their sides. even in obedience to the
dictates of fashion, and there is certainly
very little movement possible when the
kimono sleeve is extended TO the wrist,
even with darts and set-in pieces in the
under portion of the sleeve. In order TO
preserve the long, fiat shoulder effect, the
kimono shoulder. or low shoulder seam,
has been very generally adopted and is
shown on many Of the late models. 1t is
used quite as often as the regulation arm
size or the enlarged armhOle,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
s. RECORD 0fEASHIONS LATEST WHIrB -
RADICAL CHANGES IN SLEEVES
The Need for Long Sleeve Which Permits Freedom Of
Motion, Seems to Be Forcing the Kimono Sleeve
from Its Foremost Position.

sheer material. There is also the bell
shaped cuff. which is adapted TO the
three-quarter sleeve. Even in lace. how
ever this cuff is not as effective as the
wristlets of lace. In a recently imported
frock this idea was carried out IN
charming manner The lace was intro
duced in the form of modified Elizabethdn
puffs. which began just above the elbow
and finished the seven-eighths sleeves.
falling in two distinct puffs with The
fulness captured at the wrist by band
of the dress material. This development
toward fuller sleeves will undoubtedly re-
ceive impetus during the coming season,
when it can be adapted gradually in the
sleeves of a sheer material, where 1t Will
not be as noticeable as in the heavier and
less clinging fabrics.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
BlOUSES ARE SIMPLE.

These blouses are very simply con-
structed. The majority are tucked. either
In clusters or all over the front and back,
for tucked and pleated blouses have quite
superseded the frilly type. Despite their
apparent simplicity of cut they are de-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
RI OUSE STYLES REVOLUTIONARY
The White Shntwaist Is Hearing Its Death KneI, and
Will Be Replaced by Bouses Of Varying
Colors to Match the Skirt.

cidedly dressy. and should only he worn
with n handsome afternoon suit Of velvet
OF similar material, or with the all
white cloth suit. They have one advan-
tage over the blouse OF a material match
ing the skirt in that they are comfortable
in the steam heated apartments which
attain temperature that is a worthy
rival of midsummer heat.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
NET BlOUSES FOR tailored
SUITS.

The blouses of white. cream or ecru net
are not considered as dressy as the lace
or chiffon creations, and il is correct TO
wear them with the tailored suit. They
are kept delightfully."- simple. with just
little tucking, which may or may not be
gathered into a yoke. The pleated jabot
lends becoming soft finish TO the front
of the blouse. conceals the front opening
and matches the pleatings which edge
either side of the cuff The delicate beige
colorinss. deepening even to the cafe au
lait and the sand tints. have a little more
dash than the all white especially when
discreet touches Of black are added.
Though fragile in appearance. these net
blouses fare we'll in the tender" hands
Of the laundress. and as they can be
worn without ironing they are often
chosen for travelling.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
LONG OR SHORT?

And now the question that always
arises when sleeves are under discussion.
Are they to be long or short" Only
time can satisfactorily answer this ques
ton. The long sleeve has been very gem
orally adopted by the designers. both here
and across the seas, but il is not COM
Portable, even i'm the sheerest Of stuffs
for the hot weather, and women are being
given the credit for sufficient indie
pendence and common sense TO drop it In
favor OF the three quarter length when
summer is here again.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
DIFFERENT MATERIAL.

The greatest surprise is the sleeve OF
an entirely different material from the
body of the waist. To be sure. there is
generally some harmonzng connection
between the sleeve and the waist, but
there is also sufficient contrast TO make
II possible for the woman who desires 70
remodel an old gown by adding new
sleeves to make use OF this idea in many
WAYS. Merely a cravat of the sleeve
material may suffice 10 draw the sleeves
into harmony with the body Of the waist
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26

80 layishly as trimming on the whI'e
crepe blouse shown in the sketch, Is car
r.ed out in the Bulgarian colors. winch
are also reflected i'm the vest and sleeves
rf printed cotton
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
THE LONG SLEEVE.

The first long sleeves attached to this
low shoulder seam were close fitting, hug
ging the arm snusly to the wrist, and II
any funess was permitted TO creep in,
it broke forth in wrinkles in mousquetare
fashion To-day, many Of the new sleeves
fall from this low shoulder seam in the
soft folds only found in the full sleeve.
This fulness seldom falls much below the
elbow, except in the case of the bishop
sleeve, where ii extends To the wrist and
is gathered into a narrow wristband. In
the sheer fabrics this effect is very pretty.
especially when the wristband is finished
on both sides by wide pleatings of the
material The fulness, however, should
be carried over the elbow If the life OF
the sleeve is to be prolonged, for the con-
slant bending OF the elbow viii quickly
sDlit a tight sleeve.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
BLOUSE TO MATCH SKIRT.

The safer choice is, undoubtedly the
blouse matching the skirt in color. The
material, however may be contrasting
one, frightened by discreet trimmings
where color may he used 1t is very
simple matter to add a touch of color in
the crayat, the piping. the vest, or even
the collar and cuffs, and the result is de-
lightfully effective. The new embroider-
les. which fairly sparkle with radiant,
glowing colors. are just the thing TO use
in this effort to introduce the color note
into a blouse of neutral coloring. \ dash
of burnt orange will work wonders on a
blouse of taupe. or smoke grey, and a
little Chinese embroidery, in the lovely
blue tones of the Orient. will lend a dis
,nguishing effect on a blouse of the new
sand tint.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
WHITE sHlRTWAlST A UNIFORM"


The new biouses. however. are quite
Inherent from the regulation white shirt
waist. which has come to be part of what
might be called the American uniform. "
mst why the white shrtwaist has been
an generally adopted in this country will
over remain q mystery 10 the student OF
dress. Ii certainly is not an economical
choce. for IL requires frequent trips TO
The laundry. whence it may reappear in
2 wearable condition, OF i may not, the
chances being about equal Yet q white
shirtwaist is not JOY 10 the eye unless
/, is freshly Numbered and Immediately
clean. The inharmoaious ensemble re-
sultng from the decided contrast in color
at the waist line, and the practical cut
ting Of the figure in two, is not becoming
10 the average woman. Yet the white
shirtwaist has been universally adopted
BY the working girl and the woman OF
fashion and leisure. Possibly il may be-
come the lesser of two evils, for com
psratively few women have sufficient eye
for color TO combine tremendously a
blouse of a radiant color with a skirt
equally fambOyant, and the new skirts
are quite as brilliant in tone As are the
hlouSas
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26
SHOULDER PUFF SURPRISES.

The shoulder puff surprised many an IN
terested student of costume when 1t was
shown recently on a blouse Of batiste.
The slight fulness over the shoulder was
gathered into a wide band of embroidery,
about four inches below the round Of the
shoulder, and from this band the sleeve
fell with the fitness OF the bishop sleeve
to the wrist where ii was gathered into
a deep cuff of embroidery finished with
lace Just the opposite effect was dis
played on another waist, where the long
shoulder line was accumulated by q seam
extending from the neck TO the elbow and
outlined with pipings. The rest OF the
sleeve was on the order Of the popular
kimono.
CUFFS, SIMPLE AND ELABORATE.
The soft turnback cuff is the most COM
Portable, and is thus far the favorite
finish for the blouse sleeve. Some of the
long sleeves, however, are merely folded
back. as If to permit one to catch a
glimpse OF the facing. II an elaborate
cuff is desired, embroidery. lace and but
tons are applied in profusion Lace frills
not only fall over the hands, but quaint
little misplaced frills of lace fall down
from the outer seam This idea has al
ready grown familiar through the paint
ings of the oldtime French dandies.
While the frills may not have inconven-
fenced the courtiers, who had little OF i'm
portance to attend TO, save the taking OF
a pinch of snuff occasionally, they are not
practical in this workaday world. Even
the Dleatings feminine as they are must
be passed by unless one has the time and
the pocketbook TO change them often
and keep them in an immaculate cOndi-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26

Many changes distinguish the new
-. New materials have been de-
',,,,ed expressly for them; novel com
'',a,,ons of materials have been made.
and equally unusual combinations Of
~o,or have been conceived. The color note
'.t.n WAS reflected on the white waists
"as deepened into, an entire blouse of
.-,u,on, hue. and each day brings forth
80. stv,es. not only in the fashioning of
ma blouse. but in the shape Of the col
the sleeves and in the trimmings.
The interest in blcuses vas aroused this
r,in,er after they had been overshadowed
ror several seasons by the one-piece cos
tune
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-01-26

favor. and there is much 10 recommend 1t
when IL is fashioned from lace or from
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-12-01
MISSIONARY BOX TO BE PACKED
BY EPISCOPAL LADIES

A missionary box is to be packed
at the residence of Mrs. Geo. Dud-
ley, corner Tennessee avenue and
Orange street for the mountaineers
of North Carolina.
An earnest appeal goes out for any
clothing that is clean and whole.
Quoting from the columns Of the
Palm Branch, which is the publica-
ton of the Episcopal church of
South Florida, Each branch should
go to work at once on its share Of
the advent box. Everybody Is now
looking over winter clothing and it
will be convenient time to lay
aside what can be spared to send to
the mountaineers around Morgan
town, N. c. The articles must be
whole and Clean, Warm garments
Of all kinds are most useful, and.
shoes. The latter should be mendeM
and high heels made low. New ar
ticles and some money will be more
than acceptable. Interesting &C.
counts of this associate mission
have been given in these columns,
telling of the work of the seven or
eight missions within a radius of
little more than twelve miles.
Boxes and barrels packed by the
different branches Of the Woman's
Auxiliary of South Florida, are to
be sent to the Rev. Stephen E.
Prentiss, Morgantown, N. c., who
disposes of the contents as he thinks
best. All donations sent to Mrs.
Dudley will be most thankfully and
gratefully received, packed, and sent
to North Carolina.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-12-01
Mr.. Barnwell Fuller to Wed
Miss Cardwell on Dec 20

The friends Of the contracting par
ties are receiving the following in.
vitation:
Mrs. Joseph A. Cardwell
requests the honor of your presence
at the marriage Of her daughter
Mabel Virginia
to
Mr.. Robert Barnwell Fuller
On Saturday evening, zee. 20, 1913,
at six o'clock
All Saints Episcopal church
Lakeland Fla.
Reception Immediately after the
ceremony at Hotel Kibler.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-12-01
Wilson and little
"a last night from
hey were the guests
I'D. J. R. .Cason for

st. Agnes Will meet
hall at $3.50, Tuesday
mi ers please take no.
present as this is the
VI the church year, the
1 Advent and some i'm
is to be mapped out.
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-12-01
Special Missionary Meeting
| Tomorrow Afternoon

The Ladies of the Cumberland
FNybyterian Missionary Society ex
tend to all the ladies of the town 9
cordial invitation to a meeting Of
their society on Tuesday afternoon
Dec. 2, at o'clock, at the Cumber'
land Presbyterian church. This
meeting will be conducted by Miss
Kate Vaughan, the Synodical mis-
sionary Of the Alabama Synod, and
all will be given hearty welcome
Among the many delightful
events of Thanksgiving week was a
dinner given by Mr.. and Mrs. G..
w. Peterkin in their pretty home,
"Lakeview," Lakeland Highlands, in
honor of their guest, Mr.. A. Hoefle
of Cincinnati, Ohio, after which the
afternoon was spent with cards, re-
freshments again following. Among
those who enjoyed the hospitality of
most charming hostess were Mr..
and Mrs. w. B. Coarsey, Dr.. and
Mrs. A. r. Bond, Tampa; Mr.. and
Mrs. E. Pipkin, Mulberry; Mr.. alld
Mrs. Waring, and Miss Anna and
Master Thomas, Lakeland; Mr.. and
Mrs. A. J. Cook, Mr.. and Mrs.
Hammerstroem, Mr.. and Mrs. P. A.
Gardner, lakeland Highlands; Mr..
A. Hoefle, Cincinnati, o., DR.. and
Mrs. Bond remaining for the week
end. LAKELAND HIGHLANDS.