The Washington herald., 1913-11-16
Fashions at the Capital,
The Wel-Dresed Woman OF Smart Socieays What
She Wears, the Time and Place
MARGARET WADE.

DAYS OF and the FIRST debutante reception
of the winter scheduled for next Satur.
day, washington's Vanity Fair is nat.
uraily much interested in matters sar-
torial as well as social
Every gown at the White House wed.
ding will be brand-new: there is no pos
sibie doubt on that point, for November
IS would in any year be time for bring.
ing out ones best toilets, while in the
present season the changes in fashion
are so pronounced as to make any last
years gown look as much out of date
as a last years bird nest.
That the Washington, season of Is13-ll
is an off-year in society, even with a
daughter OF the President leading the
long procession OF autumn brides, is one
of those unfortunate ideas that hides Just
a few grains of truth in a large measure
of error. Those false prophets who cry
aloud that sociology, not society, will be
the keynote at the White House we'd
ding, and that for the brilliant assem-
blage that graced a similar occasion less
than eight years ago will be substituted
small and, from the Capitals point OF
view, a less interesting company, are
arguing entirely from wrong premises
Mrs. Wilson, while advocating many
reforms, and living up to her convic-
tons, has ever since her arrival at the
White House shown due regard for the
conventions OF dress.
Miss Jessie Wilson, while giving her life
since leaving college almost exclusively
to the betterment OF society. has never
lost her natural good taste or become
Indifferent to the advantages of a we'll
cut gown or a becoming hat, as shown
by her expensive and well-selected trous-
seau.
Her wedding gown will compare favor
ably with that of her immediate prede-
cessor. the former Miss Alice Roosevelt,
nd Is -trrF n l1rr h. Ca
worn by that earlier White House bride,
Nellie Grant, only by reason Of the won-
derful iounces of point lace direct from
Brussels, that covered Miss Grants skirt
and were literally worth their weight in
gold.
Although comparatively few Washing
ton women, either of the official or resi-
dent circle, have been asked TO tho we'd
ding, the toilets of the ladies of the dip
lomatic circle and the personal friends of
the bride and bridegroom from New York,
Boston, and Philadelphia, will maintain
standard Of dress quite UP to the oc-
casion.
While the Presidents wife makes no
calls, Mrs. Wilson nevertheless has a
smart visiting toilet in citron-colored pop
lin, which shows she is fully prepared for
the coming season. The suit worn at the
recital at the National Theater on Tues
day afternoon shows the new draped back
which some modistes tell us is the fore
runner OF the long discredited hustle
A horrible suggestion, but one that must
be reckoned with.
On Mrs. Wilson's gown the drapery is
hardly more than a wide sash folded at
the waist line and showing fullness be-
low the edge OF the cut-away coat that
is finished on its side seams by a line
of small, self-colored buttons and is
TWk nn-Wn~aaT aw-f,,
collar of sable with ends short in the
back and long in front to match a modish
fiat mum, and a hat matching her suit
in color with rather broad brim, on which
rested two brown ostrich feathers.
Mrs. Wilson carried out the color
scheme Of her toilet in her low-cut shoes,
finished in self-colored bows, rather than
the conspicuous buckles of the moment,
with hosiery. Of the same shade as the
poplin.
Miss Margaret Wilson on the same
occasion wore a tailored suit of dark
blue diagonal in severe lines of round
skirt and hip length jacket with one of
the smartest of hats. The latter was a
round-shaped black velvet with its soft
crown encircled by a band OF Russian
fitch, to which was added a small bouquet
OF French flowers resting fat on the outet
brim near the front.
The bright-hued zibiline coats that are
81 products Of the present autumn has re-
ceived the sanction of the White House
p bride. Miss Jessie Wilson not only has
included emerald green coat of a
smart cut in her trousseau, but is wear
ing the garment for the frequent trips
she is making to and from Washington.
Philadelphia. and New York. This is a
utility wrap quite as well adapted to
railroad travel as to motoring. 1t is long
and loose but cut to preserve the
straight and narrow line that marks the
present from the past in tailoring 1t is
untrimmed except for the huge shell but
tons with which it closes slightly on the
left side.
The annual visit of Lady Alan John |
stone affords a splendid view of fashions
as they really are in Paris. London, and |
Vienna, for no better gowned young
woman exists in the diplomatic circle
than this American wife of the British |
Minister to The Hague, now on her an
Eusl visit to " ashington. Lady John
stone wore at the German Embassy on |
Tuesday evening the denier cri in din |
ner gowns. A bird OF Paradise gown, az |
its originator calls it.
The material is blue brocade of the |
1913 variety, which has none Of the stirt- |
ness of the brocades OF former years.
ana, consequently, can be manipulated |
into the prevailing silhouette without |
losing any of its native richness and |
elegance. The color is a medium cobalt
blue, the pattern of the Persian palm !,
leaf, with all-over design in silver, gold,
and several blue tones. Like all of Lady
JOhnstone's evening gowns, this has a
long train coming from beneath the new,
much-draped tunic, the latter with con-
siderable fullness across the front
The top OF the gown shows the hall
mark of worth in its elaborate garniture
Of silver paillettes, which form a high,
round girdle. To illustrate the new mode
in backs there is a double rufie and
postilian OF blue chiffon edged with sill
yer falling from the waist line. This.
like the half-length draped sleeves, is fin
ished in the silver paillettes
On Thursday evening at the French
Embassy Lady Johnstone wore an
equally handsome dinner gown and one
of totally different character, showing
the great variation III the models of the
present season. This is a canary colored
satin with extremely narrow, close un-
derskirt which is untrimmed. with
draped overdress of the same material
The bodice shows a wonderful combina-
ton OF color-yellow satin, white chif-
fon. and old blue-an appearing in the
scant little garment The old blue is a
marvellous shade of MORE ribbon striped
In white on its edges, which encircles
the waist and falls half way to the
ground in the back. On this is placed a
yellow chrysanthemum just about the
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