The chronicle=news., 1913-05-08

I
good authority that the demand for
silks this year is greater than II has
been is the quantity greater. but the
variety OF kinds used IL aimost un-
pr.c:n,cn. One can see the reason
for /; in every display OF gowns. The
immense popularity Of the silk salts
contributes To the demand. but the
afternoon gowns In silk ARE so un-
usually Interesting that they have
been very successful.
While In France the taffetas. tus-
sor and charin"usc are the most pop
ulnr among the numerous sIlg fab
rics OF the season. the former two do
not seem To find much favor with
American women. surely not So much
IN charmeusc and several other ma
tcriaIs of "a similar character.
The present rage for dancing has
greatly added to the Importance Of
| dancing frocks Ms part Of the fcmi-
nine wardrobe. Chiffon or satin il
In mos; cases the foundation Of the
| handsomcs, Of these frockS. Chiffon
IL extensively used NJ the present
time and 4, seems ms II there were
scarcely "A costume In which chiffon
does not play II more or less Impor-
tant part. One OF the loviicst Dress
cs shown Mt recent exhibit was of
pale mnuvc chiffon. or course the
greatest part OF the waist was OF ne,
and shadow lace; but otherwise
there WIS no trimming except II picoi
edge on the chiffon. The dr1pcry.
however. WAS wonderful. II was
brought up to the waist In the mid
die Of the front In many long. soft
folds. These We're tucked up under
| the belt go that the ends showed
nbovc II in almost n rnffle. which
WIS bound with turquoise blue silk.
These contrasting bindings were
conspicuous detail In many Of the
were In bl1ci, on birge. or turquoise
on pale gray. or white On u silk He'd
ford cord In which the ribs were rose
and white alternately. The binding
We're narrow. not n quarter Of an
inch In wii;h and were used In var
iour ways.
There wan. for example. mnuvc
cahrr. ,isc dress with II tunic of
slack net. perfectly plain black net.
which was cut out NJ Ms 20 ripple
slightly around tho bottom. The
edges OF the very short sleeves and
the lower edge OF the tune were
bound with u little roll Of turquoise
satin. This stiffcned II jus, enough
to make the ripple apparent. while
the color contrast WAS most cffcc-
tive. The black. OF course. being
over n mauve. was softencd and he
came u mere yeilcd color.
Many OF the skirts showed slash
or greater or lesser degree. Often
thcsc cuts were only few inches
deep. They were frankly cut out Of
the hem OF the breadth. not formed
by overlapping drapcries. In some Of
the trained evening gowns there
were long splits where the draper
crossed in front. and these showed
the leg. IN walking. almost to the
knc,.
| a tailored suit In dark blue serge
haC two rows OF buttons and but
ton holes from the waist to the hem:
ono mt the side. toward the front !:
the other Mt the opposite side. to-
ward the back These were left open
to the height OF about six buttons.
producing two slashes.
So many evening wraps and drcssv
short coatces are trimmed In fur that
II looks as if fur would he a part OF
the summers finishes IN the hest
toilets. Fur Is more than Il mere
touch to the evening wraps. while on
the igunty little abbreviated coatecs
It is used only sparinsly. Chinchilla
is the mcst popular peltry but erm-
inc and swansdown are also uscd.
Chinchilla looks rather heavy and
wintry. while the white fur and
swandown give n light, summery
eject.
| Evening wraps. as rule. are very
sumptuous. They are generally made
I In solid and figure-faccd satins. As
n rule the flowers or designs are big
nnd are nrinted so as to stand out
boldly. The background is white or
light and the flowers in the brilliant
oolors that are prevalent this season
Some OF the fashionable ones, too,