Evening journal., 1913-02-22
Soft and Clinging Fabrics for Drapery
Borders Of Plush, Open Work
and Bulgarian or Servian
Motifs
SMART BOLEROS
AND SHORT COATS

Of the fabric. But besides the new
printed borders, fancy stripes Of rough
weave are also seen on these crepes
and yoies. The open drawn-work
border both on these materials and
on linen and ratine is very pleasing
and perhaps one Of the most attrac-
tive of this form of decoration Bor-
ders OF plush, of loosely cne-
nile threads resembling French
knots. Of Slavic designs IN curiously
wrought motifs and gay colorings, are
all to be seen on the new summer
fabrics. Very dainty is the dotted
crepe frock shown on the first figure.
The ground OF the material is white
with small blue circular spots. A
large lace collar with graduated eX-
tension fronts trims the surplice
waist Cuffs OF lace finish the elbow
sleeves. The left side of the skirt is
caught up I'm folds from the front to
the side-back in the fashionable drap-
ed effect II is cut in two pieces and
has a front inset piece. but this inset
may be omitted II preferred, in which
event the front pieces may either fall
straight or be slightly cutaway.
Among summer fabrics, now being
developed for fashionable Southern
resorts, silk Bedford cord is having
an unusual vogue for smart semi
tailored afternoon suits This fabric
comes in a variety Of shades, both
pastels and decided tones, but white
is, perhaps. the most beautiful and the
most generally favored.
Poplin. too, in silk, wool and cot
ton, is very attractive and comes in
plain weave moire and brocaded eff
fects. Whipcord and heavy benga-
line are also often used A material
introduced last fall, known as velour
de lalne, will be much in fashion
for the very early spring This soft,
silky, wooden fabric has been some
what supplanted during the past few
months by the rich satin and char
meuse brocades, but is coming into its
own again with an acclaim that shows
the feminine mind really appreciates
beautiful textures. For the woman
OF intuition in dress the field OF color
and fabric has rarely offered greater
opportunity. With white as the main
groundwork. there is a fascinating
variety of outline, tracery and en-
broidery. The inevitable girdle, sash
or belt affords ample opportunity to
strike an individual note This may
be carried out in the soft Balkan
silks, Roman stripes, Gobelin blue or
moire velvet ribbons. The graceful
costume illustrated on the second fig
ure was developed in figure silk the
I brocaded effect Of which was done by
the block-printing process described
above. II combines in its landings
MORE velvet ribbon. The ground
work Of the silk is white and the bios
SONS are wild roses with dark green
leaves The ribbon banding harmon
ICES in coloring with the green of the
leaf The waist has loose blouse front
dropped shoulder and short sleeves
A band OF ribbon encircles the neck
and edges the slashed sleeves The
skirt with its fashionable front drap-
cry has band of blue moire extend
ing from the waistline to the bottom
of the skirt drapery. In the back Il
may be tucked or gathered as prefer
red Only at the hem for the coming
season does the silhouette of the dress
remain unchanged. This will b'
slender, tendency being to narrower
rather than broader lines The skir
drapery naturally makes the garment
wider at the hips. To be sure, wher
soft material is used, which is almos
invariably the case, the quantity o.
material is moi evident Gathers anC
narrow tucks appear at the waist ans
considerable fulness in the front o