Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1913-09-28

I
and winter wear show the lowered
waist line which gives to the fem
mime figure a curiousIy boyish
aspect. The fashionable women OF
Paris are adopting this lowered
waiStline quite freely and at some
of the fashionable watering places
many of the smartest women APP
peared in blouse coates which were
fashioned like a boys smock. The
waist belt came down to the line of
the hips and the seams under the
arms We're alsot straight This is
one Of the very latest ideas in Paris.
These lowered belts are being
made in many different materials,
such as supple leather in pale Irvine
color richly embroidered in raised
silks and small beads, or in 4 heavy
make Of linen worked over with fine
wool or again in pesu de sold en-
brOidered in woods and floss silks
mixed. Those curious belts are al
ways arranged in such manner
that they circle the hips and they
are fastened in front with a hand
some buckle.
For early autumn afternoon
dresses mouseline de sole is being
very successfully combined with
Shantung. The new makes of
shantung are heavy i'll texture and
wonderfully supple The Partisan
dressmakers intend using shantung
very freely for autumn and even
winter costumes, and it is espe
ciany effective in a peculiar shade
of poppy red.
Afternoon gowns intended for
restaurant wear at the tea hour are
made OF this material with pleated
tunics of mOusseline de sole or of
crepe de chine. One of the new
Worth models was composed of
shantung in a deep shade of violet
with d border of black fox on the
tunic Of crepe de chine. on the
corsage, which bloused over the
waist belt, there were some beauti-
ful Chinese embroideries and the
fronts turned back over a chemi-
settle of rare old lace.
one of the most popular dress
makers in the French capital is us
ing chiffon cloth and plain chiffon
together for indoor dresses. This
combination looks very charming in
a pale shade Of gray with a touch of
vivid color at the waist bolt and
some really handsome lace on the
chemisette.
Gray in all possible shades is one
of the colors Of the season. Pearl
gray is being most successfully COM
bined with white velvet and ermine
for really rich tea gowns, and
deep shade Of smoke gray is being
very much used for nantes in con
junction with bands of smoke gray
fox. All shades of rich blue are in
demand in such materials as velours
II, HnN
tunes in these materials are trim
med with bands of sable or Of black
fox and the craze Of the moment
seems to be for Chinese embroider-
les Of the finest description
In this day of charming negligee
any shoulder scarf can be trans
formed into part of a negligee All
that is necessary for the TRANSFORMED
ton is wisp of tule. yard or
two of ribbon, a few artificial flow
ers and a little satin. net, silk or
muu. The scarf can be forced into
puffed or flowing sleeves, put into
satin jacket. which ties with ends
made from the ends of the scarf,
while the middle part Of the scarf
is used for the sleeves.
or the neg1igee can be made with
a chiffon panel back and front
taken from the SCARF, nelu I"SS'ii'i
with pleated tulle. trimmed with tiny
roses made from little ends Of the
scarf material. Another way 10 use
= scarf on 4 negligee is to tasten
II loosely at each sleeve. just as a
scarf The effect so produced IS
charming and adds to the pictures
que effect.
old shawls last year were often
made over into interesting evening
c1oaks Some edged with fur and
softly lined with soft-colored SILK
were really beautiful This year
when Persia will seemingly predom-
mate. just as the Balkans and EgYpt
did last year, there is more reason
than ever to bring out the old Per
sian shawl and to convert it into d
wearable evening coat.
Last spring an interesting evening
gown Of net and spangles was eN-
hibited. 1t was before net had come
in for the vogue that it is enjoying
now and will probably enjoy for |
long time The dress showed a foun-
dation of plain white net, but it was
almost completely covered with
Egyptian gauze scarfs, spangled with
tiny gilt disks and crescents. The
result was an elaborate and rich |
evening gown. The spangles SHIN
mered in every light and gave the !
net weight and dignity that made |
il the more attractive. With the !
gown there was little cap OF the |
spangled net, and an opera bag TO
lined with golden yellow silk. |