Evening journal., 1913-04-26
WAISTLINE OF MODERN WOMAN
Seasonal ShlrtwaiStS Show
Inventive Genius in Ma
teriaI and Making

NEW YORK April 26--It has been
recently alleged by one Of the most
noted French artists and designers
of women's dress that the American
woman is the best-eowned woman in
the world, and most OF us Will agree
with the French designer. Women of
this continent show much originality
and artistic ability They refuse TO
adopt models which fail 60 add TO their
charm, beauty and comfort This was
made plain when a French house. A
year or two ago, tried TO place the
divided skirt on the market IL was
the American woman who voted II
down. and that so decidedly, and with
such strong protest against fashion
so bizarre, that the house in ques-
tion has not attempted similar
dight
IL was the American woman, too.
who set the fashion of the raised
waist-line. She would have none o.
the Empire style forced upon her MS
4 this threw her out OF proportion aai
accented ;he length OF limb, watch,
When properly treated. is one q nor
most artistic assets. Thus because
cf her, il was decreed that wna' 10
known as the threo-quarter line 6c
accepted. For the last two years this
line has been in favor. not only
throughout America, but throughout
Europe.
But It is not i'm beauty of line alone
that she eNcols Her dress must COM
bine comfort with beauty aud charm,
and in this, too. she is sartoriaily SUI
preme. Her simple tailored suits.
trim walking skirts, shirt-waist frocks
and pleasing tub dresses outdo those
of the women Of any other country
What could be more attractive than
the frock pictured in the first figure
IL was developed in figured agarc,
having brown floral motif ON a tan
ground. The sash. of brown messaline,
tied loosely at side-front is 4 smart
feature The negligee appearance Is
not only attractive, but secures a de-
gree of comfort unattainable by the
close-fitting waist
IL is a mistake to support that shirt
waist have gone out of fashion. They
not only remain popular, but many
are the new notes both OF material
and construction which are shown IN
summer blouses. Nowadays women
realize that the summer sewing must
not be delayed till the hot weather is
upon us. This time must be left flee
TO be spent out-of-doors
Among the essentials for every wo-
man, whether rich or poor who would
be comfortable during this PERIOD for
the same atmospheric conditions are
felt in cottage and mansion alike, is
an unlimited number of cool, suitable
waists These may be as dainty as can
be aifored, but not too fragile to with.
: stand frequent Tubing. To this pur-
Z pose, dotted Swiss, striped and plain
voile, wash silk. both in stripes
checks and plain grounds, Rauie aud
I Irish linen, crepe, net creamy-whito
( satin and China silk. may all he used
with most satisfactory results From
now dntil midsummer a few 4 her ma
. terials may be added to the list Chif.
ION, nousseline and lace, although
/ very perishable will contin ie TO b'
extremely popular. Simplicity is th'
d characteristic of these waists. Man.
/. of them are made without any trim
+ ming whatever others have bit o
embroidery a front ruffle of lace
o rows OF hemstitching, or a few In
n serted medallions.
Some of the simpler models Of shee
It fabrics are closed in the back ant
n have filmy cascaded hounce dowl
g the front; others, on kmono lines
have much fulness in front and hacl
of bodice and about the underarm
e youthful model is that with deeply
e dropped shoulder extending almost
a to the elbow, from which place
bishop puff continues to the wrist. An
d other effective novelty in blOuses
that known as the "epaulet" Whe
combined with Bulbarian embroider
u il is particularly smart This multi
colored embroidery may be used TO
the epaulets, high rollig collar cuffs
and. If desired a lower yoke or ap
J. piled section extending upward frOr
the waist The pocket" blouse, de
= veloped in silk or linen has perhap
y already won more general acclaim
y than any other model Its distinctly
features are the pockets, one on eithe
9 side and front filled in by simulate
i. vest trimmed with tiny buttons an
developed in net. tulle or lace Blouse
of chiffon and lace are particular
notable for their simplicity. Some &
- these in chiffon are loosely pleated j
~ half-inch side-peats; under thi
,e pleating is placed chiffon of a differen
+" color, which in turn has a founda
10 tin Of shadow lace. The sleeves
q this style of blouse contain consider
able more material than the sleeves {
ID waists in general as, otherwise, fat
ric of such diaphanous texture woul
az scarcely survive one wearing BIZ
le none of the blouses of chiffon, n