The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1913-04-22
Fads and Fashions
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By FLORENCE FAIRBANKS

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, porter's, was an afternoon gown of
deep shrimp pink crepe de Chine. In
stead of being side pleated, the long
: Russian blouse, or tunic, was laid in
box pleats about an inch in width.
These were merely pressed, not
stitched. In place of the usual belt
or narrow girdle there was a Cheruit
| sash of the same material as the
dress. This was wound around the
waist, then carried to the back and
loosely knotted, little at one side,
about half way to the knee
Some of the pleated chiffon skirts
have a contrasting band of silk around
Ithe bottom. One in dark blue, for in
stance, has a ten-inch band of Scotch
plaid at the hem. With this skirt
coatee or Russian blouse of the plaid
would be worn.
Waistcoats of all kinds, either ac-
tual or simulated, are extremely pop
ular this season. Most of the waist
Ecoats are merely simulated. That is
to say, they are not separate gar
ment but are merely fronts, or even
fragments of fronts, attached to the
coat itself The genuine separate
waistcoat, however, is a feature of
many imported models and deserves
especial attention. 1t is both parti-
cal and attractive. Practical, be-
cause it gives additional warmth to a
lightweight suit in the cool weather
of early Spring, and also because,
when left off entirely, it makes the
same suit possible for warmer weather
wear.
In Paris they are wearing sleeved
waistcoats, so that the outer jacket
can be removed, which is scarcely pos
sible when the vest is made like a
mans. While this garment is called a
waistcoat, and, when the actual coat
is on, really appears to be only that,
it is more like an under jacket.
Among new wooden materials for
tailored gowns is the accordion plat
ed effect, which it seems no amount of
pressing can destroy. ''Parquet" is
the name of a lovely soft wooden fabric
that has raised designs exactly re-
.sembling an inlaid floor. "Bigoudine,
coarse and heavy in effect but really
beautifully light, woven in crooked, fine
and coarse threads, something after
the manner of 'zagzig," is an ideal
fabric for Summer tailored costumes
The same endorsement can be given
to a wooden fabric with a surface like
uncut velvet, woven in cool olive green
and white With white facings and
white buttons for trimmings, the re-
fined effect of this material is easily
imagined.
With the same delusive effect of
heaviness is a material particularly
good in a deep rich violet, but which
also appears in all other shades of the
season. These new materials will be
used as facings for collars and revers
as we'll as for entire costumes, al
though they are rather expensive
The plated or futed idea is very
popular in Paris this season and is
gaining favor also in New York. En-
tire dresses in mousseline, liberty, or
eolienne are plated in this way, the
plaits sometimes marked wide apart,
sometimes as accordion plating. The
| lighter the goods the finer the plaits.
A plated dress seen recently was in
China blue liberty, with a wide
swathed belt of old gold satin. The
fine lace which fell about the neck,
the decolletage being pointed, was of
yellow achre in color. This particu-
lar corsage had the lace wired to
stand up slightly, but in other cases
the lace falls softly about the neck
and bust.
So many of the best evening wraps
are trimmed in fur that one might
imagine the season that Of Autumn
or Winter. The fur is always chin
chilla, ermine, or golden taupe, but
it is fur nevertheless. Furs are just
as fashionable at present as they we're