Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-12-14

list of purchasers. and this house prob
ably supposed that il had given American
women q concise list of the only people
from whom they could purchase genuine
Cabot gowns. They did not seem 10
realize that dozens of dressmakers who
do not cross the ocean had Cabot gowns
for sale the first week OF October. De-
cause other firms did the purchasing and
resOld the gowns.
Now comes the fight for q pure fur
law. The American merchants who sell
reliable furs are up in arms against the
thousands who sell imitation. dyed and
pieced furs under any high-soundlng
name that occurs to them. or. worse still,
under a reliable name such as sable,
skunk, fox, raccoon and ermine.
The fight is interesting. but 1t is doubt
full If the majority of women Will be allies
1t is a.wonderful day for letting ones sell
is also wonderful day for a blatant hon
esty among women who rather delight in
saying that they buy nothing real and
nothing expensive.
The reiiabl dealers, however, are try
ing to protect the women who pay good
money for real peltry and get Imitation,
who think they are buying whole skins
and who are buying pieced skins.
If many of the fur pieces had their
Innings ripped out. and were laid wrong
side up. they would look like maps of the
United States, with all the rivers. the
boundaries and the railroad lines marked
out" is the comment of one who has fur
knowledge.
The encouragement among 4 certain
class of furriers IS due to the fact that
the fashion for putting collars and cuffs
of fur on gowns and suits has cut down
the sale of fur garments. NUNS and
stoles. The sale In muffs is not so much
women do not hesitate to say they do not
need a fur coat or evening wrap because
they have huge collars and cuffs of fur,
precious or semi-preciOus. on their coats.
1t is true in Paris as 1t Is here that
there is an immense amount Of fur trim
ming put on garments. One did not hear
as much of this In August as one should
have heard. considering what a strong
fashion ii was to be in November The
French women dearly love peltry and
they are the most inconsistent creatures
in the way they use it.
Probably one would not call it incon-
sistency II one remembered that they
consider it an ornament and not a COM
fort. One must admit that the American
seems to have come to this point of view
by the way she wears 1t on warm days.
How she stands it Is a constant question
asked by those healthy individuals who
are loath to wrap themselves up like
Eskimos in the temperate zone.
The way the French woman uses fur
is to add it to chiffon and lace. and by
this system she probably equalizes the
weight and warmth of her clothes. The
seasons have nothing to do with her adop-
ton of peltry. Deauville. for instance,
is as warm as Atlantic City, but one saw
magnificent furs there all during last Au-
gust. They would be worn in the middle
90 he 4ory in vrffI, III
chiffon gowns cut well down over the
chest in front and white cobweb silk
stockings with black satin slippers.
Even in winter the French woman does
not wear warm clothes. although her
climate is enough to freeze one out OF
ali happiness. because it is SO damn,
foggy and penetrating. She drives in the
Bots at 5 o'clock with as much fur as
her tiny body can hold, and none of 1t
IS placed where II will do good.
The American has adopted something
of this sketchy way of dressing during
the last two years, and il is revolution
AIRY change from red nannels. worsted
gowns and thick-sOled shoes, which she
was taught to wear as the only road to
health. Fortunately. she has better
teachers today. but. unfortunately, she is
swinging to the other extreme as fast as
she can.
She will wear furs. however. and here