davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1913-08-24
The Evolution Of a Hat

artists to mix the fur, and IN fact to
do every part of the work of produc-
ing the hat from the mixing on
After the various portions of diff
ferent kinds of fur have been put in,
the actual mixing is accompanied
which blows them about in various
compartments until the mixture is
perfectly even. Then the mixture is
blown into copper cone, which looks
like sieve and is perforated with
thousands OF very small holes The
cone is a yard high and about yard
in diameter at the base; and fur for
the making Of single hat having
been weighed out beforehand Is blown
Z upon this cone by means of an ex-
haust fan, which draws the air
, through the perforations of the cone
leaving the fine particles of fur on
the outside.
"If man were to see the hat in
the making as it first comes from
this cone, he might think it was for
head yard thick, but that is
, merely the first crude shape. The
texture as it comes from the cone is
very delicate, and to give 1t hardness
and strength bundle of about twelve
of these embryo hats is rolled in a
wet condition until the fibres knit to-
gether Then the body of the hat is
put in sizzling kettle where it is
shrunk with hot water and continu-
GUS rubbing until it is ABOUT ten by
/, fourteen inches in size.
''The hat is then stretched, pulled
and blocked, with the aid of hot wat
4 er, until it assumes real hat shape.
Before blocking the derby is satura-
!, ted with solution OF shellac, the
most of which is put into the hrim,
1 where the greatest stiffness is re-
CURED. 1t is then placed in an oven
until 1t becomes pliable, when 1t is
J. put into a mould, where by tremen
dous pressure the hat is shaped and
. curled at one time. Next it is placed
on a block, where fine sandpaper is
used to take off the rough surface anf
give the velvety finish. Nothing ther
, remains but to put in the band, the
!, binding and the sweat leather, recur
| and pack
3 Special features of the Stetsor
/ factory are the departments fo- weav
r ing, for cutting leather, for making
t the blocks on which the hats arr
E shaped, and for the manufacture o
. paper boxes This is the only factor.
on the American continent within
q which the whole hat is made from
q start to finish. The factory weave
t over 100000 yards of silk ribbon
!. annually. in the process Of which 40
e 600 pounds of Japanese and Italian
n silks are used.
J. an the leather cutting department
n $4,000 skins are annually used, an
d from these about 100000 swea
s feathers are made. All these are prin
ed and stamped with the gold Or ST
S yer letters with the company's specie
j. trade marks. Even the woodel
r blocks or patterns are made right !
g the factory, because these must b
S shaped with the skill of sculptor t
II get just the right style. The las
g step in the process is to pack tn
d hats In the ordinary pasteboard boxe
It and these boxes, too, are made in tn
<. Stetson factory. 1t requires NOR
3, than 500 tons of pasteboard to max
IS enough boxes for single years GU
= put"
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1913-08-24
The MARKETS
Weekly Grain Review.

UNITED Press Leased Wire Service.l |
CHICAGO, H., Aug. 23-Corn
prices, after mounting to new high
figures early in the week on the esti-
mate of crop damage in Kansas and
Oklahoma from the drought, began a
gradual decline and then had a sud.
den break just before the close today
because Of general rains over all por-
lions of the corn belt
The result was net loss for the
week of 2ss for September and cent
for December. Today's sharp decline
was the first real break in the high
prices caused by the drought and
traders we're busy specializing at the
close today as to whether there will
be any marked further decline when
| the market opens on Monday.
| Wheat moved within narrow range
late in the week, after the early high
lprices, due to the bulge In corn,
which had suffered slump.
The fact that European exports
we're abnormally large and that
European reports were mostly bull
ish was Offset by the increase in
visible receipts at the close today,
each of the active months showing a
net loss for the week Of half cent.
1 Trade in oats was mostly dull for
the week, with prices saggfng because
of heavy receipts at all primary mar
kets
The late slump in corn was bear
factor and at the close today Septem-
Der was down v and December IA
under last Saturdays closing figures
i Provisions got support on the: hoe
market during the week and closed
today with prices generally 10 to sc
cents higher.
Daily Range Of Prices.
CHICAGO, ILL.,, Aug. %
, Omen High Low Close
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1913-08-24
Causes Of Stomach troubles.

Sedentary habits, lack of out door
exercise, insufficient mastication OF
food. constipation, {. torp. liver. wor
ry and anxiety. overeating, partakins
of food and drink not suited to you1
age and occupation. Correct your
habits and take Chamberlain's Tab
lets and you will soon be well again
For sale by all dealers-Adv.
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1913-08-24

Well OF We'll & Co., have any
idea of the care required to
make a good felt hat A journey
through any good hat factory, and
glance at the elaborate, skillful and
scientific methods used would be
surprise to most every one; and =
journey through the Stetson factory,
where these scientific methods have
been brought to their highest perfec-
ton would be simply a revelation.
The total yearly output OF all kinds
of manufactured goods in Philadelphia
where these hats are made, is so
great as to considerably exceed in
value the entire wealth OF Vancouver,
including personal and real estate and
corporate property; ana yet in all
this vast production there is nothing
more interesting than the making of
hats.
.The furs most used for the pur.
pose are those of the South American
beaver, Russian hare and English and
French muskrats. The skins OF these
animals are washed with whale oil
soap, and then the long coarse grade
| hairs are removed, as they would
,, make the felt quite too course. The
furs are next treated with nitrate of
mercury, and it is this that give 1t
1 the Telling properties which later
make it knit together when pressure
\ nv, 1nf fo. rr1iad flor fhic
treatment the furs pass into ma.
H chine which brushes all the dust and
other foreign substances out and ca
ries them away by means of NJ ex
.haust fan. Nothing is then left but
i the fine inner fur, as soft as the down
of little chick.
Thence the skin passes to a cult
4 ing machine where revolving shears
strip away the fur as clean as if il
were shaved off. From this machine
the fur moves away on an endless slid
ing apron, and on this apron the ful
lies in just the shape of the pelt, 81
as to enable the sorters to select jus
the parts desired for various grade.
of hats. Indeed, 50 perfectly is thi
, shape kept that one would not know
by the appearance that the skin hal
been removed. The sorting is accor.'
ing to color and quality; and eacl
sorter selects a different part, as 70
: example the side. belly Or back. Wha
J, remains after the better parts hav
4 thus been taken is dyed and used t
, make the lower-priced hats.
Even after the sorting is complet
y the fur is by no means ready to b
made up into hats; for it must frs
be seasoned just as lumber must BIZ
fore it can be made into fine furnitur
or pianos. To this end it is stored /
! immense cellars until ready for us'
E At times these cellars at the Stetso
factory contain almost a million an
r half dollars worth of fur in process
= of seasoning.
"The next step is to mix the fur
! in just the right proportions to pr,
] duce the desired texture and colo
: effect Up to this point most of tn
work is merely mechanical, and
done largely by machinery; but frol
, here on it is art and skill that make
i the hat Anyone can make a hea
covering of some sort out of fur, b.
to make real hat having the te
9 ture. the beautiful shade of colorin
$ and the soft, downy finish, it require
J workmen so skilled as to be real
L
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1913-08-24
New York Produce.

NEW YORK, Aug. 23.-Butter mar
ket strong; receipts 1881 tubs; cream
cry extras, 2Sk@2s%c; firsts, 26@
27c.
Cheese market firm; receipts 1,46o
boxes. State whole milk fresh white
and colored specials, 15A @15kc; do
average fancy. 15c.
Egg market unchanged; receipts
9,132 cases.
Poultry, live, market firm. Chick.
ems. 19c; fowls, 16ac; turkeys, 15c.
Poultry, dressed, market quiet
Fresh killed western chickens, ITO
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1913-08-24
Chicago Live Stock.

CHICAGO, Aug. 23.-Hog receipts
10000; good hogs strong, others weak
at opening prices. Bulk, $7.9o@S.75;
light, ss.40@925; mixed, s7.7o@9.S0;
heavy. s7.55@s.95; rough. s7.55@7.so
Cattle receipts 200; market steady
Top, 1918.
sheep receipts 1000 Top, $500;
lambs, top, $50.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

Eoos 75c and chickens. at Proeesr's Harnsss shop. Phone Black N
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
ADVERTISING PAYS.

Newspaper advertising tends to low CT the cost of living. according to the consensus of opinion voiced by speak, ers at the luncheon given by the Hawk eye Fellowship Club of Chicago. If !; were not for advertising the public would be bankrupt as the result or soaring prices. it wgsa asserted. The relation of newspnper advertising to the high cost of living was summar- ised by the speakers as follows: N decreases living expenses. It increases the volumn of sale. It increases sales to the consumer. lower prices. Adver- tisements tell people where to buy cheapest. Bargains would go begging were it not for advertising. Advertise ments are cheaper than high -saiaried drummers.--Ex.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
SANITY IN DRESS.

Occasionally we get q clear note on the subject of dress. For instance. pr. Ell G. Jones. president of the Am erican Association of Progressive Med icinc, says: "i have come to believe that the less clothing we drape on our figures in the heated weather the more we increase our chances of proionsins our iives." and he adds:
 1 should like to advise American women to stick to the same weight clothing the year around. but fear to do so.
 By degrees we are coming to more rn tional Ideas in the matter of dress. The time will come when we will look upon some of the foolish surpiusages with which we overburden our figures with as much disgust as we now look upon greasy wigs and smotherins winmples. The fact of the business is that we are overdressed. No doubt we would be healthier if we wore fewer and simpler clothes. and the remark fits men as we'll as women. In spite of the popular belief that only women run to extravagances in the matter Of dress.
 The idea that 1t takes heavy clothes to keep the body warm. that we must sca,d our feet in heavyweight hosiery swelter our bodies in woolens ana otherwise overload ourselves w"n draperies is an exploded idea.
 Dr.. Jones may now be afraid to ad- v,ss American women "to stick to the same weight clothing the year around hut the time will come when both the women and the men of America qua fin al, parts of America. will do pre- clue,y what Dr. Jones is afraid to ao- vise the women to do.
 Only in the meantime men ana wo' men will learn the essential lesson thot they must depend upon tee' ~s'''~
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

. We print everything and anything In job printing line at the Nugget.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

Valdez. Sept. l4.-Among the many who left here recently for the Chisana was Ed Seiderman, who formerly op- erated on Cleary creek. in the Fair banks district. Together with three other men seiderman left here last week with q winters outft. and ex pects to prospect in the new disgings until spring.
 The reports reaching here from the disgings are very conflicting. many declaring the camp winner. and others stating that 1t will never amount to anything. All agree. however. thai the possibility of a camp all depends on whether or not the benches ahow pay.
 Many of those who came out ex- pect to return soon with a winter sup ply of grub and prospecting outfits.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
RECORDS
 <. : :s. u.
Deeda

Mina A. Megier ct al to Floyd w. Osyood, undivided one- sixth inleres, discovery Lake creek; Sept. {, 1918. \. M. Boyd to United States or Am erica. lot SG. block 30: Aug. 2s. 1913. sarah F. Schoiield to United States of America. lot S6. block 90.
 j. S. Waite to A. Polet, property on Dry creek, Snake river. Moose gulch and Concord creek: Sept zs. 1913 F: II. Nelly and wife to John ', Uurk. part of lot 20. block 80. Nome Sept. g.
 Charles Larson to Geo. C. Zoliinger third interest In Mother lode and Mother lode No. I. head of Cooper guIrh. Oct. ,. 1912.
 Patent
 United States to Charles C. Suter Gertrude placer mining claim. between Bourbon and Dry: Feb. 2l. 1913.
 Sill of Sale.
 If. $. Hanson to Ant0niu Polet. min Ing outfit on Rhoda mining claim. be- tween Bourbon and Center creek.
 Forfeiture Notice.
 J. $. Waite to A. NJ. Whaite ct al. Berkeley association claim, Moose gulch.
 Powsrs Of Atternsy. Anna May Runyan to Davis Runyan Sept. as. 1873.
 Claire H. Bunch to J. Lionel Bunch Sept. 26. 1913. preofs ef Labor. Leadville. and Banner lode claims opposite 6 above left limit Anvil creek G. E. Christofferson ct al.
 Miller group Mcdonald creek. Davit Cove ct al.
 Good Luck fraction mouth of Satur' day creek, Anvil Hydraulic and Drain age Co. ct al.
 Nos. 1 and below Discovery ane Nos. 1 and 2 above Discovery Sledgt creek. Claus Rodine.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
OPENING DANCE.

Nome Acric No n. F. Q. F.. has' with heavy cost, yet with commenda- .
 hle enterprise. completed the hnest dancing floor in Alaska. and will pre- sent it to the public Saturday night The Eagles nre entitled to anticipate a large attendance. The music to pc Furnished will he in keeping with the splendid fi0or. and in addition there will be exhibited for the first time the new stage curtain. with it's artistic announcements: if any cnterprisins business has been overlooked. and Il any spaces remain. there may still be time to correct the error. The Eaglea will he pleased to sec all their friends at the opening party. Adv
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
,e..m Our Exchansss.)

The FaWU"
 ,.. meeting held last Aonaas evening - .r. commissioners court room ac- '. the resignation of R. S. Me- nona,d a. secrei"'s and selected H, E. :. neorge in his stead The offices of .,,,, whi,.h have ben conducted '". .'.r the Horseshoe saloon ever since w ,,-ranixation will in the future be oa,ce of St. George & Cathcart.
 outhiy dues were reduced from Q to F.
 settle. Sept 10.--That the waters n.mb,er bay fairly bristle with = S.cr, which are not marked on the
 .,. used by navigators in Alaskan ..,.rs is the statement received today sv Chief Pratt of the gcodetic survey.
 o ,s now in Seattle. The statement ..m. from Captain Derrickson. com
 ,aer of the survey steamer GedneY. -.,o ,s now in Gambler bay searching
 tho rocks which menace naviga- tion.
 .dvices received from Washington s,,r,ns the past week indicate that the ...nbers of congress recognize the ..-,on,ness of the situation in the ,or,h. and probably will give the mat ..r early consideration.
 Valdez. Sept. 14-Owing to the fact .h., the commissioners along the southwest coast of Alaska were unable ,o furnish necessary bonds. thousands of nshermen, who were employed by ,ss canneries. escaped without payinI ,h.ir poIl taxes. and the government ,s q loser by many thousands of dol lars.
 Accordins to the new law the com u,,ssioners are required to Ale an extra houd 10 cover the amount of taxes they may collect. The commissioners along inc coast were unable to secure the required bonds elsewhere and SO ap- nl,ed to the cannery operators. The latter refused to go surety for the of- ncers, and also set tho w"rkmen wise that the commissioners had not full filled the requirements of the law. and were therefore ineligible to collect the taxes. Upon this ground it was that the thousands refused to pay.
 Seattle. Sept. 12-ln the opinion of Thomas w. Riggs. jr.. head of the American division of the international boundary survey who has just arrived in this city from a tour of inspection of the boundary from the Yukon to the Pacific. much of the suffering which is reported from the Chisana gold fields could have been avoided had there been mounted police on the Am- erican side to prevent the rush OF poorly equipped stampeders into the desolate region. Riggs. who has spent several summers in the boundary country between Alaska and Yukon and who has come in contact with the Canadian mounted police frequently. says that a similar organization on the Alaska side would be q great aid to the residents of Uncle Sam's farthest north possession. particularly In the more remote regions.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
POLITICS DON'T PAY.

Unless you look as good as the job you're after. Come in and let us
 change your appearance. We are just
 In receipt of a compeiete line of Fall and Winter woolens-S00 patterns in
 ali-Suitings. vestings and Overcoats. For the next 20 days we will discount all orders 10 per cent. The "Senator"
 brought us the goods and we are going to sell them on a 10 per cent discount. We guarantee to make
 every man In Nome look as if he
 worked for Uncle Sam. If he can't
 afford the new goods we'll clean and
 press his old clothes and guarantee
 the same satisfaction.
 NOME TAILORING co. Do not make my other engagement
 except going to the Eagle housewarm- ing ball. Eagle hall. Saturday night. Nome Daily Nugget is the e~san ss
 all the people, subser'bs new, sGoc ,sr month delivered.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

That the Arctic Brotherhood Is pure
 iy a Northern institution and that all future grand camps must be held with in the confines of Alaska. as well as the establishment of subordinate camps, was the unanimous voice or Camp Fairbanks nt It's meeting held
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

Dawson. Sept. s.--Among today's ar. rivals from the outside is J. M. Elmer, father of dredging in the Klondike, who h en route to the Circle country with new lower tumbler for the dredge which has operated in that dis. trict during the past two seasons. Fl. mer denies that the Circle venture has been a failure and that the dredge is shut down permanently. He says that as soon as necessary repairs can be made, operations will be resumed and work rushed during the remainder of
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
AT TIE NEW EAaLG.

old Lswls Hunter Rye and tns es u,sus Athstten Bourbon ~'hislssya Distilled sprins 1so4- 1sos bought h bend and reduced to Q per ssnt by U. 6. government, by the bst&is gallon.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

bodies more, and upon clothes less. for physical comfort. for. in the final reckoning. 1t Is the condition of the body that counts.--Seattle Sun.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
NEWS FROM ALL ,PARTS=0 =0E. N0RTHl lANO

wednesday evening at which time delegates to the grand camp were se- lected These instructions were strict y given the delegates which consisted of Frank P. Wood. George Bevier. c. A. Kirstein. and Wallace Cathcart, while Harry T. Ray and John W. Bar ker were chosen as delegates at large. The convenins of the grand camp this year will be the second Tuesday in November at Seattle.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

uNExcELLED NEWS sGRvlcG Of the Nome Daily NuggsG $500 psr month delivered to your homes every uight before o'clock
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

the season. In an effort to make up for the time which has been lost lately on
 account of an accident to the machin- Qry.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27

The new hard wood floor just laid m the Eagle hall has no equal Do not miss the first dance of the season.
The Nome daily nugget., 1913-09-27
DO YOU NEED

Bill hsads, statsmsnta ssttsr hseds end ecysIepss Have them Pr'nsss ~ the Nugget eAios.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1913-09-13
aushlna Business.

Recently . wsll-known partner a .
brokerage house was seen rushing
wildly downstairs In q Broad street.
skyscraper. A friend stopped him and
asked the cause Of the hurry. why.
An old client Of mine stepped IN to sss
mo for Q moment and the fool once
boy did not tell him was In IN inside
ONCE and he left saying he was going
to be shaved. 20 am following him
up" Later the broker was again met
BY his friend, who called out genially:
Did you md your customer In the
barber's1" Yes. old man, and he
gave me :: 1osharo order In New York
Central" was the triumphant reply.
The friend said nothing. bot thought
all the mere. for had not the same
broker refused 20 carry = mere 80
shares of Union Pacific" for him n
1905 on the plea that the firm did not
care for odd lots r'-Wau Street Jour.
nal.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1913-09-13
Centennial rev.ne.

There viii b six "centennial towns"
In Maine this year. Six towns were
Incorporated By the legislature Of
1872. one Of which has since grown %
b city. They ars ths city q
Brewer on the PonobsooG river. Phil.
lips TAR up In Franklin county, Bang.
ham on the Kennebee Eivos. Troy IN
Waldo county. and Hoxcra1t and D.
bee. Piscataquis county towns. Most
Of these places will have Q esntonAial
celebration. Some have been planning
for some time and local historians
have been gathering material for the
historical address. The birthdays
come in February. but following the.
usual customs will be held in the sum-
mer and In connection With something
like an old homo week, when the sons
and daughters Of the town viii gather
from all parts Of the country. There
will b family and class reunions. OF.
ercises In the town hall. historical
parade. . big dinner. always . "cen.
tennial ball" and music By The Village
band.-Waterville Sentinel.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1913-09-13
Renre.ent.tive Hoo s.les,
Suckers and Feeders.

Chicago. Sept. 13.-Declines have
been more pronounced on the fair TO
right good steers OF medium weight,
bulk of which are % to 40 cents lower
than a week ago and 80 to 90 cents
lower than ten days ago. \ few OF the
best selected heavy feeders and strict
ly top notch feeder yearlings have es-
capped with a Is cent cut and common
light stockers have not shown as grea.
decline as that registered on the
medium sorts which have been in eN-
tremely heavy supply. Last week
congestion at Kansas City was fac
ter in the big run here this week. there
having been generous supply Of thin
and light feshed cattle here out OF
Kansas and Missouris parched pas
lures.
At weekend only a choice assorted
class of feeder steers is passing S'.2o,
altho several loads of highly oreo
heavy selected feeders and few OF
the best feeder yearlings reached s'9u
to $3.50 during week and some 1856
pound steers went out for a short corn
crib cross as high as IS. Bulk Of the
fair 20 good 500 to l.0oo-pound feeders
sold, however, at $3.50 to Sis and bulk
stockers from s6.o5 to s.. with an in
ferior and common sort down 10 IS TO
$5.75. Stock cows and heifers below
choice class sold Is to % cents lower,
some of the highly bred thin young
cows and 'heifers, which continue
scarce, showing little decline.
Best selected, 900 to 1.i5o
lhs .s7.50@7.s5
Best selected. $50 to 500 lbs. 7.s5@7.s5
lbs .......... s.75a7.4o
Fair TO good. 500 20 500 lbs. 6.2o goo
Common to fair. 500 10 700
lbs. ........ o.'o " 90
Inferior TO common. 800 to
zoo lbs. ....... ........ 5.ooa5.75
Good 10 choice stock heif-
Poor to good stock heifers.. o.2o q o.oo
Good to choice stock COWS. 5.2o a 80
Poor TO good stock COWS -. 4.Io@ 80