The chronicle=news., 1913-10-23
Eads and Fashions

New 1Ork, UNt. sS.-3 TeNtcw ~
the autumn and early winter fashions
AS shown In the displays by the lead
Ink houses OF importers here and
elsewhere. reveals great deal that
is beautiful aud attractive. One oi
the most striking and pleasing feat.
ures IL the beauty Of color and text.
ures In the materials used. As to th.'
styles. Il may be said that there IL >,
great variety Of them and that while
some Of them are beautiful and re.
fined others are decidedly barbaric.
Intended. II seems. rather TO startie
by their daring unconvcntionality ~
and cccentricity than to please by
their beauty and harmony.
Speaking In u general way 1t may
he said that the styles OF the present
day are dominated by Greek or Orr.
entail Influences. skirts are still
seaat and the silhouettes in the best
models approach the normal form as
rcpresented by some of The famous
Greek masterpieces OF sculpture. OF
course. there are exceptions from
that general rule aud some OF the
models by famom. designers display
siihouettes altogether absurd II not
actually repuEnsnt ana Indecent.
The luxury displayed In the CO.'S
tunes OF the present day. especially
In those for evening wear and In
dancing and dinner frocks aud wraps
has never been cuqall-.i, Most hail
gowns have u detached train which
may be thrown over the arm. and
dancing dresscs with round skirts
take on u somewhat more elegant mp.
pcarancc by the richness Of their
trimming Of Jet or Jewels. Jewels In
soi xe0us briiiiancy and coiors ar.
combined with rich materials of the
most bcouiifui and richest coiors and
textures.
Much lace. threaded with metal.
powdered with rhinestoncs and Jew
els Of various soris. II employed To
fashion the srantiiy drRpei bodice.
The graceful mantle OF iact falling
from the shoulders and covering the
back In often fashioned OF exquisite
chantilly and Point de Milan. A
touch purely French II the cdxinx u,
much Of this lace with fur. mostl.
m,uk. sable. putois and seal skin.
Ribbons. too. hav. large share Of
attention. These fursish the new
Wide GirdIes often falling In lons
ends at the side. 4 favoriie ribbon
trimming is the rose quilting Of rib
Ion two or three inches wide. which.
In contrasting color. edge. the skirt
or Russian blouse.
Nantes to accompany such gowns
surpsss them In the point Of spienior
An innovation Ia the mantle Of fur or
Of velvet, fsilink from the shoulders
10 the back In the lines OF an Italian
officers cape: the front. In such cas-
"s. Is like shprt Jacket reaching Just
below the waist. the idea being that
the cape shall be pulled around with
the hands to cover the front Of the
skirt.
The Magnificcncc Of materials
seems to have inspired unprecedented
beauties In this line. a brocadc In
bold design Of Burgundy red on
white forms. for instance. the upper
part OF u pointed mantle. while fhc
lower portion is u band OF solid red.
This is perfectly simple. falling like
"a shawl. finished by one Of the huge
collars of sable. New fur collars. by
the way. have u curious tendency to
find their place as far from the neck
AS possible In the back.
Many short wraps OF velvet. bro
ca,lcd or plain. finished with fur. and
alto made entirely OF fur. aud short
fur Jackets accompany the afternoon
gowns Of satin or velvet. The favor
itc rurs for Jackets are caracul. dyed
squirrel, called "xibclinctte." broad
tail, mink and scalskin. Those have
collars OF putois, civet, fox In every
conceivable shade and type. Many
jackets OF cloth are also trimmed
with u collar and cuffs Of these lat
ter furx. also OF leopard. pony and
jsckal.