davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16
Pink Crepe Lingerie.

(REPE DE CHINE underwear Is prac-
- teal as well as pretty, for a good
quality Of crepe de chine washes as we'll
as muslin. There is a growing use of this
sort of underwear. 1t is sold now in
pink, blue and white. 1t is all trimmed
with lace, some Of it deliberately.
Crepe de chine petticoats are ideal be-
cause of their light weight and clinging
softness. They are generally finished at
the bottom with a pleated f1ounce OF VIDE
lace. Some of them show an insertion
Of lace five or six inches wide and hem
of the crepe below the insertion The
more elaborate petticoats are trimmed
with ribbon and chiffon rosettes and
tiny artificial flowers.
Some of the combinations and chemises
Of crepe de chine are simply made. and
these are especially serviceable. For the
woman who is travelling they are boon
indeed, for they can be worn without
ironing. Hung up damp, their own
weight smooths them from wrinkles.
Colored handkerchiefs are persistently
shown even by the exclusive linen deal
ers. Blue and pink and green borders on
fine dimity or linen centers. applied cut
outs and medallions of colored lawn on
fine white linen handkerchiefs. and white
handkerchiefS embroidered with cOlors
are all shown. All cOlored handkerchiefs
are also used-pale pink with deep rose
borders and pale blue with deep blue
borders.
Straw is scarce this year. it Is said.
Perhaps that fact accounts for the great
number of cloth. silk. velvet and mohair
hats seen. Chiffon anG lingerie hats, too.
for wear with light frocks. apparently
will be popular
Outing hats are made in ratine and
waterproof velour. canvas and linen.
The woman who Is in possession Of a
leghorn. Neapolitan or Panama straw
Is lucky indeed. for no matter how out
of date or soiled these straws may be
they can be cleaned and remodeled in
the latest shape.
Attractive chest protectors for evening
wear are made of blue. pink or white
brocaded silk, lined with silk covered
padding in the same shade and edged
with white marabou These protectors
are made with a strip to go about the
neck and a shield to cover the chest
and fasten up snugly about the throat.
For wear with street suits they are made
in black silk. edged with black marabou.
Blue and white, black and white and
brown and white striped silk shields for
wear, respectively. with blue, black or
brown street suits are also sold. They
are edged simply with a silk covered
cord, are cut in a shape or shape
at the throat and button with small self
colored bone buttons.
Tucked point d'esprit is effectively used
for yokes of nightgowns and chemises.
Some of the new evening gowns have
slipper and handkerchief or knickknack
bags and opera caps made Of the same
material as the dress. One especially
pretty combination Of this sort showed
yellow satin yelled with a sort of gold
tissue. The evening cap was made or
the tissue, decorated with twist Of gold
cord and four small gilt tassels, and the
bag was of the tissue lined with the
satin, drawn up with gilt cord. with two
gilt tassels dangling from the corners OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

that govern wall papers should be car
ried out. Birds and flowers were never
intended to be walked on. and the woman
with any idea of the fitness of things
never would make the mistake of placing
on floor a carpet that is not fairly and
squarely appropriate for its uses. Rugs
and carpets should be always subOrdi-
mated, and the oriental rug has become
so cheap that all who can afford carpets
can buy rugs of beautiful weave.
There Will be many a temptation to-
ward fiorid adornment the coming spring.
With the chintzes now SO popular papers
quite as gay as any design from France
England are shown, but nothing could
be worse than a Powered wall, Powered
curtains and Powered upholstery. When
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

1t comes to adopting floral scheme of
decoration 1t is good plan to think
whether real flowers could be employed
advantageously, and then to satisfy the
floral mania by filling vase with real
blossoms
AS a last word let it be recalled that
with the tapestry origin in mind the
Yall paper carrying design is recog
nized as not properly a background for
pictures. Pictures when they are worth
while should be distributed sparingly on
a plain wall. The fewer pictures the bet
ter the effect. for pictures more than
any other Of the precious family posses
sions should have real value as fine re-
productions or as works Of supreme tai
ent.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16
ROOMS TO E1ARMONlZE
WITH ONES STYLE I'm DRESS

and so are light shades of green, which
cast sickly pallor upon everything.
The woman who makes an excursion
in economy naturally desires wall paper
that will give the largest amount of wear
and the greatest possible pleasure. In
that 1t imparts to room an air OF COM
fort and repose, while it makes every
person as we'll as every piece of furniture
appear even better than reality proves
them to be. For that reason the neutral
tints that are warm in tone are always
desirable. If browns are used the yellow
tints must be apparent and in the grays
just a suggestion of pink should be dis
coverable. Care must be exercised lest
they fail to give back the sunlight or the
lamplight when 1t strikes them. That
does not mean that there should be any
gloss on the surface The dull papers
with rough or plain surfaces are pref
cradle. But there must be possibilities
for soft shadows that make the furniture
appear to belong in corners and against
convenient spaees.
II the paper is satisfactory its effect
may be spoiled by the wrong choice of
rugs and draperies. A woman should
never forget the value of contrast and
the wisdom Of obtaining masses of color.
II brown is the dominant color then
touches of yellow will mean much in the
room. for there is infinite charm in the
repetition of a color note With the
grays the old faded reds familiar to all
who admire the furniture of Spain in
bygone times are most effective
Nothing offers more pitfalls than the
reds when applied in interior decoration.
For the home 1t is desirable to give sug
gestion of this strong color, but II should
have a decided rose tinge and ii should
be used sparingly. Beauty OF color de-
ponds largely upon the opposition of
an esthetic peril will be avoided. Rose
colors, pure and simple, should be
handled with care. Women are inclined
to strong color fancieS and they have
upon their families. They should not
forget that, even If a pink room might
have seemed desirable in their Girlhood
days, their own color schemes change
Just as their faces change. The house
keeper who had her drawing room done
in O. rose color that was reminiscent of
the times when the French beauties hung
their walls with damasks discovered that
only when attired in evening dress could
any OF the family appear pasSaby we'll
against the delicate sat!ny ckground
Silks and muslins of delicate shades be-
longed in the room and the practical
tailormades were as much out of place as
they would have been in ballroom.
With the right wall paper much OF the
shabbiness Of furniture can be hidden.
The marred places made by long usage
sink out OF sight gust as soon as chair
or a table comes into its right relation
with Its environment. and there is no
need to worry about trifies II unity and
| harmony have been established
In the use Of rugs the same principles
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

pleats can hardly be called a revival, and
yet the rise and fall Of the former has
been one Of the interesting conditions in
the dress market. In it's original sense.
as a mouffant drapery over the hips. It
Is not popular, for it gives too much
width to that part of a woman's figure
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

America the last five weeks. but the
women are yet undecided as to what
they will do with it.
Some think of it for entire gowns, and
others see 1t at it's best in Vatican
pleats. panniers, draped tunics. The
fashion for the pannier and the Vatican
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

month Crash, the Chinese silks. shan
tung. pongee. rajah and foulard, crepe
de chine. cotton ratine and Powered silks
are the materials used for the new spring
wear, with the emphasis on brocaded
crepe de chine and old-fashioned Powered
silk. The latter has been shown in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

that the price is not less than that asked
for brocade, since $3.50 a yard Is not
considered too expensive for the needs OF
the American millionaire whose country
house will be a marvel of old English or
renaissance ideas applied to meet new
world demands.
After admiring the costly cotton fabrics
the housewife may find exactly what she
wants at a reasonable figure. The domes-
tic chntZeS vary from % cents yard to
S1.25. or even more, but it is possible to
| obtain something quite satisfactory for
less than 30 cents.
sideration to quality and price Is GUAM
tity. Chintz should be used as sparingly
as possible. If sofa is to be upholstered
then it is wise to cover only one or two
chairs, or to select the cushions that De-
long to the rattan rockers. These. with
the curtains, will give the character 10
the room that is to be Transformed, ana
plain linens of one of the dominant col
ors should be employed wherever 1t Is easy
to break what threatens to be monotony.
Before making any changes in room
It is well to study its possibilities for i'm
provement 1t has been said by a well
known writer that all persons can DE
classified in two ways-according to their
likes and dislikes of color and according
to their likes and dislikes Of orderliness.
The housewife has no difficulty In assign
ing the members Of her family to their
nroper places. so far as their inclination
to aid in keeping things In their proper
places is concerned, but there Is teno,
ency to ignore the color preference OF
the men, who usually permit their wives
and sisters to dictate concerning interior
decoration 1t is fact, however, that
women are apt to insist on color har-
monies that are affinities-hence the one
colored rooms-whle men prefer mar
monies of contrast.
II 10 always economical to obtain the
greatest degree of comfort for the least
possible outlay, and when 1t comes TO
making old furniture masquerade as new
the old chairs that are favorltes nave d
chance to remain in their accustomed
places With new chintZ covers they VIII
be doubiy welcome to all, and the nrSt
care should be to choose colors that VIII
not soil too easily, but that does NOT mean
that beauty should be sacrificed or tnat
ANYTHING like cold or dull hues need De
selected With the thought OF pleasing
the men as well as the women Vi .ne
family due consideration should De g'eii
TO the value of contrast and to the proper
massing of the dark pieces OF furniture
SO that the room will not have motieo
or piebald appearance, so easy Ior IL W
ACQUIRE when chintZes are used.
x
But chintzes are not LOT uia" -
That objection naturally Will arise mas
much as it has been SO long associated
with bedrooms. The new patterns are
SO varied that there is something Tor
every part of the house. In the severely
conventional designs and low tones OF
color they have the richness OF Velours
and can be employed SO cleverly In draw
ing rooms and living rooms that they will
cotton ia bricS
1t should hardly be necessary to remind
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16


70 what June will bring they know not
T.. "a better for peace of mind not to dis
cuss IL.
II would be tiresome to the reader 70
discuss some of the various ways In
which the American public has been sur
prised by a revolution in fashions after
they had got an their summer clothes II
is all very well to argue from pedestal
of St Anthony that these changes should
not tempt women to worry and to invest
more money in clothes: but the women
are not on the pedestal and they are
sor,lv tempted TO be extravagant when
the fashions change, and if they do not
WELD they make themselves quite as mis-
cradle as if they had. In these cases vir-
iuc has no reward.
When women arrive at state OF mind
where they are entirely careless or new
fashions and are quite content TO look
and never to buy, then We Will see disas-
trous financial times. The high tarlH
and the cost of living will be triflins FAC
tors in finance against the condition oil
indifference TO apparel on the part OF
women And yet this is what men preach
70 the unquiet sex. They think that
women will be more sensible wnen tney
buy clothes as they need them ana not
as they want them: as a protection ana
not as an ornament.
And suppose this thing came to pass7
Who would be the most disguised at II!
Why, the men. of course. Nothing 10
look at but a race OF dowdy women al
the arts and vanity of dress gone. just
drab procession of Serviceable garments
l.r without wear
ing out. Imagine the protests from tne
men, and yet they are the ones VINO IKE
nothing SO we'll as to dilate upon TINS
subject of vanity and economy Wnen
beauty in dress ceases, then much OF the
charm of the world will be gone, and
when women cease to choose that wmcn
is lovely and fashionable and wear only
that which is unitarian. then some or the
interest in living will be taken away.
There is not as much excitement in
February over a possible change Of cloth
ing as there is in August. which are the
two months agreed upon by the American
and French dressmakers to inaugurate
new styles for America. These two
months mean nothing to Europe; for
French women. who lead that continent
choose their new clothes in October. jan
that tit in with the needs of European
women. who want new costumes in June
for the races, in January for the Riviera
and in October for the town season.
1T is outside of Europe that the interest
lies in the months Of February and Au-
gust. when the French houses make
special designs for the iiost of American
buyers In August there Is always q wide
number of changes which are brought to
America in September. copied and re-
Tod t~ he
women. In February the styles are prac-
tically the same that the French women
have been wearing during December ana
January and the American manufacturers
and dressmakers find 1t a sensible plan to
bring over the new gowns every few
weeks.
Naturally the French designers change
many of the details Of these gowns. and
always change the materials when they
offer them to the American buyers this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

TT you are a woman of moderate means
and If you feel bit discouraged when
you find your furniture and draperies
becoming shabby you should be cheered
by the knowledge that chintz is enjoying
an extraordinary vogue. If you cannot
afford to recover chairs and sofas with
the lovely brocatelles and the rich velours
then turn to the chintzes. which invite
you to try an excursion in economy that
should bring joy to every member of your
family-unless you are not wise IN select-
ing colors and patterns.
The chintzes may lure one into primrose
paths. along which are many pitfalls. 1t
is as hard to choose just the right design
as it is to select becoming Easter hat,
and a mistake in chintz cannot be ignor-
ed. for it will be in plain sight all the
time. The revival of chintzes has put a
bewildering variety of patterns and
weaves on the market, for reps. cretonnes
and what look as if they were merely
plain. old-fashioned calicoes are all in one
class SO far as popular favor is concerned.
BEFORE making any purchase or even
examining materials 1t is well to learn
something about the various weaves.
Most of the English chintZes are war
ranted to wear Indefinitely, while many
of those of domestic manufacture are not
ALWAYS to be relied on, for they are likely
tn fade. Most alluring of all, perhaps are
the lovely French chintzes, which appear
in the softest colorings and the most
charming patterns
Many of them are copies of designs that
are famous, since they are associated
with periods in history memorable for
artistic achievement. Reproductions of
the old English block prints are interest
ing. but not always practical or beauti-
ful With their famboyant birds and
parish flowers of abnormal size they
cause the shopper to wonder who will
buy them, but in their right places they
are quite acceptable Combinations of
hlnes and reds. lavenders and blacks also
raise a question of their possible useful
ness. but they are displayed so confident
w that ii does not require prophet to
nredict that many crime against good
taste in interior decoration will be COM
mitted in the name of chintZ.
Among the most alluring patterns are
the COPIES of period designs. especially
those that were common in the days of
Louis XIV, and the first empire. Some OF
these are expensive, and 1t Is the price
that will cause perplexity when the adj
yentrrer in economy seeks material with
which to transform the dingy room that
must be done over before the spring rush
of housekeeping.
The first surprise will be experienced
when double-width fabric, on which is
Of don
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

big bow Of black satin. or velvet with
long streamers is fastened directly be-
tween the shoulders of some charming
gowns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

without fullness and is made Of the ma
terial. The sleeves are long, are put into
lowered armholes with a heavy cord that
Is on line with the one used across the
figure And by the way, however full
the sleeve may be above the wrist. it is
tight at the wrist-so tight that it must
be fastened up after the hand has been
run through it.
Possibly the designers were put to it to
discover new details to enliven the gowns
they were to sell to American buyers;
but, whatever the reason. they have
found that the introduction of Roman
ribbon as we'll as Scotch plaid is a taking
fashion. Neither Of these ribbons is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

For instance. a certain application OF
Delft blue IN dining rooms has been at
tended with more or less satisfaction
during the daylight hours. but 1t absorbs
the artificial light and causes the dinner
hour TO be one of more or less gloom.
Certain browns also are quite hopeless
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

UT is the early house cleaning that in
4 sures speed in procuring repairs.
D since il is not difficult to procure
III workmen before the busy season.
Moreover, il is worth while to plan
an adventure in economy which Will
lead the housewife into a larger knowi-
edge of interior decoration, and she must
learn something when she plans the re-
rapering of her apartment or nat.
The first thought is that the walls OF
rooms are solid and for that reason any
covering that removes the impression
that they are substantial is not true art.
IL is sure 10 convey the wrong idea ana
10 give the feeling OF an inconsistency
that DESTROYS repose. 1t is absurd to sug-
gest that one is living in an arbor by COW
erins the walls with flowers climbing on
trelhses or by choosing enects that are
IN an way misleading.
Having firmly fixed in the mind the
IDEAL of solidity the next consideration
il a care about using color wisely. This
means that patterns of every sort must
be selected cautiously. 1t should be re-
?nembered that wall paper originated as
a cheap substitute for tapestry and that
many of its earliest designs were imita-
lions of patterns familiar in the hanginSs
of palaces and castles. Wall paper at
1irst was regarded contemptuOusly. but
it's novelty won II vogue that Tor a
time caused il to supersede the costly
fabrics that were employed to hide bare
walls or 10 break their monotony.
~
4 room is really picture, or at least
il should be composed with due regard to
is esthetic possibilities. The walls are
the background of which doors and Win
dows are a part. The furniture is in the
middle distance and the family furnishes
the foreground.
II is evident that if the wall paper is
figured conventional designs are always
best ana the designs should be worked
out in varying tones of the dominant
color This dominant color may be any
that lends itself charmingly to interior
decoration. II should be soft. rich and
beautiful in its varying shades.
IL Is not enough that 1t should blend
with carpets and curtains or contrast
tremendously with them. II should be
favorable as Il background TO the persons
VINO make The main part OF the picture.
it should bring oct the flesh tones, or at
least not spoil them. and IL should not
clash with the colorS of the garments
worn BY those who pass their time within
The four walls of the room. Moreover. II
should simplify the lighting problems,
whether the position of windows or the
effect of electric lamps Is taken into con-
siGeration.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

The first surprise will be experienced
when a double-width fabric, on which is
printed a conventional design Of golden
browns and blues or of greens in several
shades, is preferred. At a distance the
effect of brocade is given by the richness
Of the coloring, and it will be discovered
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

Naturally the French designers change
many of the details Of these gowns. and
always change the materials when they
offer them to the American buyers this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16
BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE.

VERY one sends
over from Paris the
hopeful news that
the styles will
not be radically
changed from what
they have been.
The layman and
even the profess
sional may rejoice,
for II means a ces-
sation OF trouble
for the present: as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-16

Ever so many Of the new blouses are of
lace and net combined with chiffon, the
latter being often embroidered in Persian
colorings. 80. -
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-09-28


are ho agans lin. baby
rwth
of Love breathe
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-09-28
CiSM0NT
Ispc,,al,o The Times-p!spatchl

special TO The Tt!peS- ptspatCnJ
Cismont. Va. September Mrs. Aibert
Dexter Davis who has been spending Sow
erul weeks with her mother. Mrs, Lewis. at
.'Airslic." near Cismnut, has ret urncd TO her
home in Washington for tho winter,
Mr. Warner. OF Ronraw farm. LETT on
Thursday for an extended tour OF the West.
The number OF charming people from the
Virginia summer resorts who arc sotoGrning
ut ..Cloverfelds'' on their homcward way
North increases daily.
!, Miss Helen Fisher. who has been q CUES.
OF Mrs Frederick Page AT Mtliwood. Tor
the summer has returned To Richmond.
Mr and Mrs ,;rigsby Sharkieford ant
their two little daughters LEFT on Tuesday
for Alexandria Mr. Shnckicford viii re-
sumo his duties professor At the high
school
! Mr. and Mrs Addison and their family
,hayr left seven Oaks for Richmond. and
Mrs OgIetrcc and children have now taken
their place and enjoying the charms
or !, hospitab le county home
i a. chaloner loft "Merrie Mills" Thurs
'uny FOR Richmond and viii b. gone several
days
iourned for few days last week. with his
cousin W. r.. Money. NJ Campbell
Z Many motoring parties from Richmond arc
seen daily passing through Cismont. Peo-
nle from ali parts OF the country take ad-
vantage OF this wonderful fall weather to
visit relatives md friends In Ciamont
THE dance given nj Keswick last Saturday
night instead of the ono To he given cartier
hut which was prevented by rain. was small.
but yciy pleasant Those who attended were