The weekly times-record. (Valley City, N.D.) 1912-1922, 1913-05-08

planting trees so large that they do
not stand the shock of transplanting;
they either die or become dwarfed or
deformed and eventually become un.
slightly and have to be removed.
Much more satisfactory results will be
had, by using good thrifty whips, five
to eight feet long and from three
fourths Of an inch to one and one
half inches in diameter at the ground
AS q portion of the root is lost in
digging, and as it takes time to es.
tablish the roots after setting the
tree, cut off portion Of the top so
as to relieve the weakened root from
supporting the entire top, while it is
establishing itself and getting In con-
dition to support what top is left and
help pust out new Cut back nearly
or all the top, but the leader" or
main stalk; do not cut that at all,
unless bruised or broken, and then
no further down than the damaged
spot. I know this is contrary to
common practice, but try it.
Young thrifty trees stand the shock
of transplanting much better than
older ones, that may have become
"stunted" or their growth checked,
before .transplanting. Dwarfed trees
are worthless for transplanting, re.
CARELESS Of size.
A larger and better tree may be
developed in ten years from young
thrifty trees, six feet long and one
inch in diameter then from one six
teen feet long and two and half or
three inches in diameter, each dug,
planted and cared for in the same
way.
A word in regard to planting and
am through. An expert, only, might
succeed in planting trees through sod.
and he would attempt it as a last re-
sort, or in case of an emergency.
Ground for tree should be thor
oughly subdued and the higher the
state of cultivation the better the
chance for success, and, even then, to
insure the best results. that high state
of cultivation must be continued from
three to five years. If neglected, after
planting, and sod allowed to form
around them, shutting off the air and
sunshine, so essential to the well-be.
ing of the roots, by the tough sod
which absorbs large percentage OF
the natural moisture of the soil, which
cultivation conserves, they dwarf
You would not think of growing d
garden without cultivation: trees be-
long to the vegetable kingdom, and
will respond to good treatment, as
readily as vegetables.
In setting, make liberal bed fol
the roots; dig your hole at least as
large in diameter as a wash-tub, ant
as deep or deeper Fill in with ricl
mellow soil "a small percentage o
well rotted manure, added to this
soil would be of advantage, but NJ
fresh, or green" manure should be
used) until, by placing the roots O.
the tree in the center Of the hole, GOV
ering the roots two to six inches deel
and firming down very thoroughly
the tree stands not more than ONT
inch lower than it stood before taking
up. Leave the ground, when fnall,
tramped down, very firmly "dishing'
toward the tree, so that water poured
}around it will run toward the tire,
from all directions.
! Soak it thoroughly Zone or more
pals to each tree) then mulch, pre-
ferably with we'll decomposed chip
manure, old sawdust Of stable ma
nure, in the order in which have
Igiven them, but whatever you use, put
on plentifully. Four to six inche!
Ideep, except right at the tree, where
the mulching should not be more
THAN one or two inches deep. Neve;
"hill-up" or pull dirt or mulch up t,
Ia tree, pull your mulch away from
1.-The tree leaving small sauce