Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-16
LUDES RUMlOR THAT CHINESE EFFECTS WILL H&

may come up between now and Christ |
mas which will change the forecast
The peg-top skirt, as 1t is called over |
here, or the Zouave skirt. as it is called /
in Paris. is the fashion of the day. |
Everybody recognized that the moment
Cabot introduced ii on the first day or |
the third week of August. !,
1t was only natural that with the In |
coming of the Turkish and Persian skirts |
women should begin to wear the Zouave
Jackets which are so much a part OF the
east. One does not see AS many OF them
here as in Paris. but they are Immensely
attractive. and provide distinct cnange
from the ordinary blouse which we nave
worn for fifteen or twenty years.
These bouses are combination or
bolcro jacket and a full. pleated shirt
waist front with high sash to hold both
in.
Chcruit first introduced the waistcoat
blouse, which was decided change from
the conventional garment we have worn,
and this bolero blouse provides a good
rival to il in novelty. 1t is made long
enough at the back to be pushed up and
over the belt. and the fronts are loose,
and open over a vest of finely peated or
gathered batste. handkerchief linen, or
chiffon cloth. This is finished at the top
with a turnover collar and loose cravat
on il is gathered to a straight neckband
which is covered by straight collar at
tached to the bolero. This may be trim
med with fur or galloon, or left plain.
The waistcoat blouse-is- fastened straight
down the front is opened i'm a slight 'V''
at the neck and sometimes finished with
a high collar that rises above the coat
collar and falls over it. 1t has two points
below the waist line in front and narrow
belt with buckle at the back. The
1S,yt md gxrtf
are finished ut the wrist with a row OF
buttons Like most others of the day.
they are held in tightly to the wrist and
flare over the hand.
The designers must have taken great
deal of time off to invent all the new
sleeves that appear in the market. It
would take a page to describe them, and
then some one would arrive with new
one. There never was more laxity as far
as fashion is concerned. 1t is not even
necessary to make them of the gown fab
ric, and they need not harmonfze with its
color scheme. Paquin's idea of putting
plain sleeve in dark frock did not be-
come popular and the scheme of Bechon-
David in putting Futurist sleeves in blue
and brown gowns quickly died out. but
Poiret's idea Of putting velvet sleeves to
match a velvet skirt in the loose arm
holes of Russian blouse Of another col
or. promises to have a following.
1t is not questionable to have plain
sleeves in a conventional armhole. and
vet a gathered sleeve that starts half
way up the shoulder or at the neck line Is
more fashionable. In Jackets and in
blouses the wide kimono one is good. and
it is draped under the arm In a volumi-
nous manner that adds inches to breadth
Of the figure.
In evening gowns 1t is not necessary to
have a sleeve There are individualists
who are going in for the Greek shoulder
drapery, modified. which is especially at
tractive for debutantes. The bodice Is cut
to two points over each shoulder held to-
gether with tiny jeweled button. The
armhole is outlined with crystal or metal
trimming. and the folds of the material
rest against the neck in a deep v, back
and front without ornament.