davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

TN SPITE of the reports from Paris
that Partisan women care little for
= wells, charming wells continue to show
themselves in the American shops. To
wear with the velvet hats, lace wells
edged with velvet ribbon are sold. One
of brown shadow yelling is edged with
silk backed velvet almost an inch wide
and is worn with a deep brown velvet
hat
New Wells.
One of the new automobile wells is
made Of marquisette in Persian colors-
blue ground. with red and green figur-
ing. 1t has a square insert of fine white
net Of the washable sort, which covers
the face.
Shoulder Scarfs.
Shoulder scarfs are even more elab-
crate and beautiful than they were last
winter One of unusual beauty shows
black and white combined. 1t is made
on foundation of white chiffon. 1t is
shaped TO a deep round point at the
back, and has long. rounded tabs in
front Over the white chiffon foundation
is stretched filmy covering of black
satin-striped chiffon, banded with in
sertions of black lace. The edge Of the
scarf is finished with a double ruching
OF the white chiffon. and long and heavy
white silk tassels and the tabs in front.
Embroidered Collars.
Among the novelties in the shops are
embroidered collars from Paris. They
are made on silk. and show Chinese en-
broidery done In Chinese colors Some
OF them. showing golden dragons on rich
blue backgrounds or fiery red flowers
on green, are gorgeous to a degree.
Jet in Demand.
Jet is used in all the ways that the
imagination of the dressmakers and de-
signers can devise. Done gown OF blue
brocaded velvet, in a deep, rich shade,
with a tunic of rich blue chiffon, il out
lined about the neck with a string of
big Jet beads-as big in diameter as a
cent. This string is caught between
every third or fourth bead to the chiffon
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

THE TI-NIC Is THE DISTINGUISH
ING FEATURE OF THE CLOTHES
OF THE MOMENT AT DEAUvILLE.
WHERE FASHIONABLE EUROPE AND
AS MUCH OF FASHIONABLE AMER
ICA AS CAN GET THERE FLOCK FOR
THE RACES AND OTHER EXCITE
MENT. AND WHERE THE STYLES
WORN ARE THOSE THAT WILL con-
TINUE.TO BE WORN UNTIL DECEM-
Der, ONE SAW THE TUNIC FROM IL
O'CLOCK IN THE MORNING UNTIL
LATER THE NEXT MORNING THAN
ONE WOULD CARE TO SAY. IT WAS
MADE OF VARIOUS FABRICS AND IN
NUMEROUS. STYLES, BUT IT WAS
ALWAYS TO ACCENTUATE THE SIZE
OF THE SILHOUETTE BETWEEN
THE WAIST AND THE KNEES.
THE COSTUME ON THE RIGHT IS A
RED ONE, BY POIRET-THE INVEN-
TOR OF THE OUTSTANDING TUNIC,
BY THE WAY. FOR IT WAS HE THAT
SIGNED LAMPSHADE TUNIC
FROCKS FOR LIE MINARET"-AND
1T is BANDED WITH BLACK FUR.
THE TUNIC. IN THIS CASE THE PIP
LUM TO THE COAT. is WIRED TO
STAND OUT IN CHARACTERISTIC
FASHION FROM THE HIPS.
THE GOWN ON THE SEATED FIG
URE IS MADE OF RICH BROWN TAT
FETA, AND THE TUNIC is MADE TO
STAND OUT ABOUT THE HIPS WITH
A FULL RUFFLE. PIPED AT THE
EDGE. THE HAT is OF VELVET.
TURNED WELL BACK ON THE RIGHT
SIDE TO SHOW THE COUTURE.
THE STANDING FIGURE WEARS A
BLACK SATIN FROCK. OF A CON-
SENTATIVE SORT BLACK SATIN IS
ALWAYS BECOMING AND ALWAYS.
AT THE PRESENT TIME, IN GOOD
TASTE THE NECESSARY FULLNESS
ABOUT THE HIPS is GAINED
THROUGH THE USE OF THICK FOLDS
OF SATIN, APPLIED MORE IN THE
MANNER OF PAINTERS THAN A
TUNIC: BUT 1T is FREE FROM THE
REST OF THE SKIRT IN FRONT, AND
STANDS OUT IN TWO REvERLIkE
POINTS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

them are made of chiffon. They are all
heavily embroidered. with metallic threads
and silk and WOOL in rich shades Of
color.
The clever needlewoman could copy
these collars and so get one at much less
expense than the price asked for them
ready made-they cost from two to seven
dollars.
stretch 1t in embroidery frames. and
mark the shape of the collar and the de-
sign to be embroidered. The edge should
be buttonholed in heavy threads in a
straight outline. Here Is one collar that
might be copied: It II OF deep mauve
chiffon cloth. edged with buttonholing in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

a lighter shade Of silk. It is decorated
with q design OF conventionalized daisies.
worked in old blue and old yellow silk
and silver metal thread. This would look
we'll on a blue gown
Sometimes cuffs are made to match the
collars. The cuffs in many cases are no
more than little points that are fastened
to the sleeve of the frock at the elbow
or the wrist, but that do not go all the
way around the arm or hand. One at
tractive set of this sort, with small cuffs
that would just give q dashing touch Of
color to the sleeves Of the dark dress
with which they were worn, is of Egyp-
tian cloth. embroidered heavily in bril-
liant green and burnt shade Of red.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Beautiful Collars Speak of the Orient

THERE are some really beautiful new
collars on sale In the shops that look
asst they had come straight from the
east. To be exact. they have come from
Paris, but they are none the less fascinat-
ing. II we did not know this we shouldbe
prone to believe that the wardrobe Of some
oriental prince or princess had been
sacked for rich embroideries and gor-
geous fabrics. More to the point. these
collars give just tho right touch 60 the
costume of silk or cotton. wool or linen
They are made in odd. queer shapes.
and are made OF q sort Of gauze. like
mummy CLOTH only thinner< Some of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Fancy Fur Trimmings.

ENTIRE collars made Of fur give a
IL pretty finishing touch to suits and
wraps. They are either In military style
or of the rolling type. which can be
worn either open or closed. Coats are
edged with bands OF fur. and suits and
dresses have fur on the tunic or on the
bottom of the skirt. Many delicate cos
tunes are relieved by bands of dark fnrs
Little floating boleros Of chiffon are fur
bordered. and chiffon wraps are edged
with fur. Buttons and belts are also
made of fur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

double string of the beads hangs from
each shoulder. loosely over the arms two
strands in front of and two behind each
arm.
Lace With Coat Suits.
Net and lace waists are, apparently,
to take the place Of colored chiffon
waists for use with coat suits this winter.
And these net and lace waists are to be
white. Some Of them are much like the
lace waists of the spring. Diagonal
bands of light pink and blue ribbon are
used under the lace; the V-neck is the
most usual one, and this is outlined with
tulle or net frills. There are some new
touches, too. One Is the use of plush
with lace and tulle and net Of the sheer
est sort. The plush Is applied in the
form of vests and collars and cuffs and
the contrast between the heavy and the
thin material is interesting. White plush
spotted with black, In irregular leopard
like spots. is especially effective. Some
of the white lace waists are finished at
the neck with three or four tiny pink and
blue chiffon roses which give dainty
and distinctive touch. Another new
touch to these thin blouses is the button
holed net collar. The collar is cut out,
and buttonholed with scallops straight
along the edge, in rather coarse colored
silk and big stitches.
Satin Ribbon.
Reversible satin ribbon, Of rich and
heavy quality, shows two distinct colors.
one on one side, one on the other. Black
is faced with rose, blue, gold-yellow and
green. Gray and brown are also combined
with these brighter shades, and blue and
rose green and violet and many other
interesting combinations are found Sash
ribbons are ever changing and ever more
interesting. One of the latest Is a wide.
soft. loosely woven ribbon. of gray. tan.
brown, black or other background. There
is metallic luster to each OF these colors.
The ribbon Is run with wooden threads
which form croeswise stripes about three
inches apart. One especially good COM
| bination showed yellow, blue and green
| stripes on a brown ground The shades
were all q little unusual and harmonized
well.
Scarfs.
- A,yro Ahn,, %hoO
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Invisible Darn.

EOR most rents haste piece of thin
! paper under the rent. drawing IL
into perfect shape; then darn neatly
with rawlings OF the material. IL one
has no pieces these can sometimes be
obtained from the raw edges of the
skirt cores. A French patch is made
without turning the edges under The
piece Is smoothly fitted in and a piece
of thin paper basted on. The edges Of
the patch are then darned with very
fine stitches. Always press a darn
carefully after finishing il.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
A Princess Sweater.

"A Princess sweater.
The yellow sweaters were not seen at
the races, but they shared the honors
with the new Chanel and Royant coats
in the morning hours. Yellow and white
muslins were worn at the races, which is
an innovation, and the only other So
called simple frock was the fashionable
chiffon shirt waist and skirt made up in
black and white.
The Princess Murat wore a black one
at the Grand Prix, with a ruffied skirt and
oad-shouldered shirt waist with a
yoke at the back and front, a wide fiat
sailor collar, lowered armholes and long
sleeves that fastened in snugly at the
wrist and bagged over the cuffs.
There were many white ones made
after the same fashion, with a broad
black velvet girdle, or that new fitted
girdle which is to be very fashionable
this year. This is of watered silk in such
colors as fuchsia and petunia; water
melon pink is also popular and that new
shade of red called pigeon, blood ruby,
which Premet has made fashionable.
These fitted girdles reach quite far down
on the skirt at the back and high up on
the bodice in front and are finished with
a six-inch buckle of jet or metal lace.
The American women are ordering these
white chiffon shirt waist frocks for house.
wear in the evening this winter; the waist,
as worn at Deauville, is exceedingly broad
and full and has no lining, but drops over
a tight corset cover of lace with narrow
esh-colored ribbon straps over the Shout
der
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
To Renovate Cane Chairs.

A RAPID and practical method OF re-
"A moving stains and discolorations
from the cane seats OF chairs. wicker
work. ETC., IL to use oxalic acid and pow
dered pumice. Dissolve oxalic acid crys-
tails In hot water and saturate a small
stif brush In it, then dip the brush in
the powdered pumice and rub the dis
colored cane briskly with the brush.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Gardenias in Favor.

(ARDENIAS are, apparently. to con-
~ tinue in favor. They are used on
many of the new velvet hats. They are
simply arranged, as q gardenia must be
to bring out all its stiff beauty: and
they are q fitting trimming for fab
rio SO dfgnified as velvet. They are
frequently combined. in the form OF
wreath. with narrow. stir black MORE
ribbon-another trimming much used
on velvet The ribbon Is tied In stin.
small bows, with V-nicked ends.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
HERE ARE SOME SMALL IDEAS I'm NEW FASHIONS

MORE ribbon. worked with chenille in
red, green and yellow. In irregular
bands about an inch wide and three
or four inches apart.
New Use for Old Lace.
There is a new way of using rare old
lace-if it is of the right shape and
size Fasten a band around the head
we'll down over the hair and brows In
the front. and somewhat above the
nape of the. neck in back. At right
angles to this band, fasten another,
going under the chin and straight up
across the top of the head. 1t can be
fastened together over one ear with a
jeweled ornament.
Hair Ornaments.
Hair ornaments are still worn stick
ing straight out away from the head.
Big and bright-colored feathers are
often worn in fantastic fashion. and
loops Of gold and silver lace are worn
in the same way.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Deauville Tango Mad.

The hats were of black velvet. without
any trimming. but a fantastic brush OF
osprey. These were perched always over
the left eye and fitting up to show the
couture on the right side. The oriental
sash was missing. but the oriental
method of beading lace was omnpresent.
il was used as drapery and always as an
addition TO the corsage. The waists were
entirely Transparent. no matter whether
they were high or low, and when there
was a train il was a short little pointed
affair quite as likely to be OF tulle as OF
satin.
Deauville is as tango-mad as the rest
Of the world, although here, as else
where. the word is used to cover wide
variety of modern dancing. The splendid
new Hotel Royal, which looks like .
white palace and is made gay and artis-
tic by it's far-reaching yellow and white
striped awnings, its yellow and white
furniture and its window boxes of ge-
raniums and purple fuchsia, instituted
the tango tea at ; o'clock in the after
noon, and ii has been almost impossible
to get table there since the Royal
opened.
When the Vernon Castles do their IA
NOUS dance Mrs. Castle wears a slim,
short skirt OF gray satin and a bright
red Japanese jacket of silk, with red
and gray hat and gray suede slippers
with silver buckles and red heels.
Quite fetching costume!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

say An American woman wore one in
the little street before dejeuner, which
was made of white satin and tulle. and
there were five flounces between the waist
and knees. The gown with a petaled
tunic was there in black, pink. white and
blue The original one was black.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Cleaning Brass.

A SOLUTION that will cleanse brass
\ very quickly without harm to the
hands or the metal is an ounce of alum
dissolved in a pint of boiling water.
Rub the solution on the brass with a
cloth. Stains as well as tarnish are
quickly removed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Paint Window Screens.

WINDOW and door screens may be
" kept in perfect condition almost in
definitely without rusting If painted with
window screen paint on both sides of
the screen, just on rather dry coat. First
the screen should be well brushed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

put il on Mile Foysan. 1t was instantly
the fashion, and now every house IN
Paris shows it. One dreams of these bal
let tunics at night They are like cano-
pies of MOSQUITO netting that come down
and give one nightmare.
Every woman that passes wears some
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

kind of regular drapery swinging out
from her waist like a bell, leaving her
slim legs dropping to the ground as If
they were no part of her body.
Well. at Deauville, one saw the tunic
from II o'clock in the morning until later
the next morning than one would care to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

One missed the outpouring Of violent
colors that became fashionable last March.
The we'll dressed women chung to all
white. all black, great deal OF yellow
and brilliant brown. Very little gray was
worn and not much blue. Yellow was
evidently the color. and 1t has rioted
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

that any description of il would be put
down to the exaggeration that is expect
ed from a reporters brain. We talk idly
of the great jewels worn in America. but
they sink into insignificance in COM
parison with the jewels worn by the Eu-
ropean women in the Casino at Deau-
yilIa
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
A Bird's-Eye View.

Everywhere 1t is life of pleasure, and
the sea. the sand; the sky and the flow
ers satisfy all your longing for color and
make a seductive background for the
Kaleidoscope bits of humanity that toss
and tumble in the pursuit of gayety.
1t is a well known fact among the
Americans and all the dressmakers that,
at Deauville. one can get a bird s-eye
view of the new fashions that is helpful
and interesting. Here are the exploita
tons OF the great French designers. and
what goes at Deauville is very apt to be
considered fashionable until December.
And So added to the gayety, those who
are in search of information concerning
clothes do not feel they have wasted time
in loafing in this luxurious spot so ad-
mirably placed.
For many long years Trouville was the
center of European fashion in August.
Only two years ago l saw there the most
fashionably dressed women. leading cost
ly lives and wearing jewels that one be-
ueved were paste until told differently.
Today ii is Deauville. the twin sister of
Trouville. which has taken over the fash
ion.
The same men who have managed GER
tain hotels and restaurants at Monte
Carlo have built hotels and a casino at
Deauville, and fashion turned a somer-
sault I'm six months. Instead of the Hotel
de Paris it is now the Hotel Royal and
Normande. Instead of the Rue de Paris
II IL the Rue de Gontaud Biron. instead
OF the Casino at one place Ii is now the
Casino at another place; only the race
course Is the same. II was always at
Deauvtlle and this is the reason-a geo.
graphical one-why fashion preferred to
go to Deauville as soon as it had luxuri-
Gus quarters and casino with baccarat
rooms
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
A Startling Raiment.

And here is the raiment she wore
without exaggeration. A breech clout OF
dark blue Jersey which narrowed above
the waist line to slender straps that went
over the shoulders. Although this was
the only garment she wore. she evidentiy
felt that not enough of her wonderful
olive skin was exposed. for she slashed
the sides of her apparel and then laced
IT with blue silk cords. On her rect We're
white satin mules, and on her head was
the newest hat in black velvet by Re
boux 1t was perched raklShly over one
eve and surmounted by a hundred dollar
paradise plume. DO you Wohoer tndl the
crowd followed?
She walked straight toward a Wen
known New York captain of industry VINO
stood as though growing in the SAND he
admitted afterward that Ii was impos-
sible for him to get out of her way for
he was paralyzed at the sight
Such are the things one sees at Deau-
Vile. No wonder the crowd goes flock
ing down from all the capitals of Europe,
70 say nothing of America to gaze II not
10 be gazed at. So hypnotic is the spell
that one feels unable to resist the tide of
eccentrtcity. You find yourself wearing
clothes in a weeks time that you would
consider fearful at home.
Slashed skirts, decolette blouses in the
morning diamonds as big as the Kohl
moor at midday, seem to be too trivial to
talk about Hundreds of human birds of
paradise crowded into three rooms cooliy
losing and winning thousands of francs
at baccarat, seems commonplace, after
awhile. 1t is all done so casually and SO
constantly. and the doors seem to be SO
sane and worldly wise, that If you are
not dead with excitement within weeks
time you begin to look at the world from
their point of view.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Dame Fashion at Play.

Is IL not interesting that the two great
gambling places Of Europe should be set
IN natures best surroundings? Monte
Carlo and Deauville offered every beauty
OF land and sea, and yet the majority of
fashionable folk who go there live only
for the excitement Of the race course and
the mad moments of baccarat in over
heated rooms.
BY the way. how do the French stand
the heat OF their places? There are win
dows everywhere and not a breath of air.
In DeaAville where the breeze from the
English channel sweeps over the sweet
est flowers human beings eat and play
and dance and gamble with every window
bolted.
The method OF fashionable life was to
battle at II o'clock to sit on the beach
and watch the others battle. After this
comes the parade in the little Rue de
Gontaud Enron. where every one walks In
the middle of the street or sits along the
pavement
This tiny street leads from the beach
10 a large chalet. where one has an
aperatif before lunch at tiny green tables
under awnings After this dejeuner at
the Royal which is the magnificent new
hotel. or the Normandie or the Casino
After dejeuner the races. which begin
at half-past and continue until hai1-
past 5; then polo or the tango tea at
the Royal. and dinner at o'clock at
any one Of the three places. but always
the Casino after IL.
There are not as many changes of toilet
as one would expect with so much go
ing on The informally OF the sea has
some effect and the smart women wear
the short skirts and topcoats until the
races begin. They keep on their race
gowns, which are very elaborate and gor-
xeous until the Q o'clock dinner, at which
they appear in all the splendor of jewels
and costumery which their many trunks
provide.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Some Striking Frocks.

elaborate silk and satin frocks each aft
ernoon. but they were not in exaggerated
form; the TUNES were not wired to stand
out from the figure. and the bodices were
lined we'll over the shoulders. She always
wore large hats which shaded her eyes,
as did Mrs. Craig-Biddle. Her hat on the
dav of the Grand Prix was in the shape
of an old-fashioned English garden hat,
made by Reboux, and trimmed with a
wonderful color of deep bright blue which
matches Mrs. Biddle's eyes. Mrs. Frank
Gould, Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, Miss
Marguerite Shonts, the Duchesse de
Chaulnes, Mrs. Potter Palmer and Mrs.
Joseph E. Widener were some Of the fash
ionably dressed American women there.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
What They Wore at the Casino.

The large spaces OF the racecourse and
the huge new stand which has been built
to accommodate thousands Of people tend
to scatter the people SO that one does not
easily group them as one does In the
smaller crowded space of the Casino.
Here at nights, the scene is so brilliant
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21

net arranged in the back at the end of
the decolletage. and usually swinging
sleeves of drapery.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Special Dispatch 10 The Star.

Special Dispatch L. The Star.
PARIS. September II, 1913.
- NE of the most fashionable
spots IN Europe during Au-
gust is Deauville down on the
coast. Here We all troop like
Countrymen TO a circus Ana
We see sights. too. Gowns that are un-
belieyable jewels that must have been
found BY Snbad the Sailor, hats that
could never be form by Americans, bath
ing suits that would shock even Atlantic
City, here they all are. gathered together
under one blue sky.
The fashionable space at Deauville is
SO small that there is no need for any
one TO miss an exciting episode IL YOU
see the crowd moving toward one point
you follow: that is the signal OF excite
ment in any nation under the sun.
For example. on Sunday morning there
on the beach. 1t was difficult To see
what was the matter. 50 thick were the
flying groups of people. some Laughing,
some looking shocked. The hrSt thought
was that the hydroplane was dipping TO-
ward the surf to ride like bird on the
water which always attracts the peo-
pue. but IL was something more exciting
than a hydroplane. IL was FAMOUS
Russian actress. who has created quite
a few sensations at Deauville In the
past week coming down the beach ar
rayed for her morning swim.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-21
Wear Their Hats.

The one thing upon which an American
would instantly put her finger is that all
Europe dimes in q hat. with the exception
OF England. The Americans are divided.
They do as they WISH following one
creed or the other. but probably the
smartest of them adopt the French fash
don-
And yet there Is something splendid
and dignifed about the English costume
with uncovered head and jeweled Golf
fure.
Sunday afternoon is the gala time for
brilliant costumes at the race course.
The tunic dominated-that new tunic
that America Will see so much OF In
few weeks and which has changed the
silhouette of women. Paul Poiret was
its creator by reason of the costumes he
produced for lie Minaret." and the tunic
therefore takes that name.
Soon afterward Mime. Arnold, who -
q new star In the dressmaking sky, not
shining brilliantly yet. but soon. ap-
piled the tunic to an everyday gown ana