davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1913-06-22

ary >. 1898. from MOntepelier. He tells
his friend that knowing his potato crop
will be a failure owing to his long alb
sence he has taken pleasure in putting
aside a certain portion of his own for the
family at Oakhil. the fine estate OF the
Monroes in Loudoun county and within
easy ride of Montpelier. He adds naively
that Mrs. NJ. sends along with the po-
tatces some bottles Of currant wine and
a bag of dried cherries, which she begs
Mrs. Monroe to accept and to use until
fruit season rolls by again
"All through the -s<ivate correspond
ence Of Mr.. and Mrs. Madison with
James Monroe and his wife we get
glimpses of the customs of the days
and of the simple tastes and ideas of
these people whose names are written so
largely in history. Mistress Dolly
writes vivaciousIy about her garden and
her flowers, her fetes, and she recon-
mends recipes and utters few COM
plants about the slaves. who We're seem
ingly as prone to faults as their modern
descendants James Monroe tells about
crops, the domestic affairs, even using
a whole page to tell about the headache
of his wife and her fatigue at long
coach journey. One of the most charm
ing letters in my possession is one
in which James Madison acQuaintS his
friend with his contemplated marriage.
This letter shows all the reserve OF the
time. when it was not considered gallant
for men to discuss women even IN the
most cursory way or between the most
intimate friends, and when the mention
of d woman's name in the public papers
was an affront to be wiped out only
by a duel. Mr.. Madison announces IN
stately periods that when his good
friend Monroe returns to Virginia he
Will have d new member of his famliy
to present, one most accomplished. ana
in every way worthy OF the friendship
of Mrs. Monroe and himself. There Is
no time mentioned for the wedding, nor
does the name of the Sprightly Dolly
appear at all in the letter.
Washington society, now almost per-
fectly organized does not realize how
much ii owes to Mrs. Monroe. who holds
place In history as having first set forth
the duties of all society at the American
capital toward the wife of the President.
Ideas We're rather haZy before her time.
but she formulated the code which holds
with small change even today. Mrs.
Monroe received her training, other than
that given in all gentle families in
revolutionary times, at the French
capital.
"Her elder daughter, Eliza Monroe
was educated in Paris under that wom-
an famous in the court of Marie An
toinette as the mistress of robes Nine
Campan. This woman lost her posses
sions and at one time almost her life
Evening star., 1913-06-22

due rotundity of body which usually be-
',comes the lot of man of his years. He
wears belt and requires no galluses to
hold up his trousers.
The Wilson shoulders are models. His
best in evening clothes. 1t has been
many decades since the White House has
had an occupant that would come so
portions of a graceful wearer of good
frock coats are well tailored and 1T is
best. His shoulders fill his coats in just
in graceful curves
But the President does not stick to the
frock coat of the politician. His liking
runs to sack suits of the ordinary busi-
ness cut. These are we'll tailored and
kept we'll pressed. They run to grays
and browns. The accompanying necktie
is usually of light gray or OF black. 1t
has that touch of adornment, the stick
pin. The breast pocket of the President
nearly always boasts a handkerchief the
tip of which peeps out. This is a sure
evidence of the dressy man. The breast
pocket handkerchief Is in no way utili-
tartan. Like the stickpn it is non
essential. The man who wears 1t thinks
q good deal about clothes. The President
evidently is not of the old school in the
matter of wearing apparel.
But the President has no all-obscurinS
feature in the matter of his dressing as
is to be found in the sugar loaf hat of
Vice President Marshall This gentleman
Evening star., 1913-06-22

ent leather shoes-quite conventional and
proper. He substitutes a mauve gray tie
when he and Mrs. Marshall go about
socially in the afternoon. He wears these
clothes with air of briskness and has
good time in them Official Washington
has known nobody in generation who
has enjoyed going about more than do
the Vice President and his wife.
The Jim Ham Lewis of the House of
Representatives is James Thomas
Hef1in OF Alabama. Representative
Heflin shines with least restraint at
special sessions of Congress when the
thermometer is playing around the hun
dred mark. 1t is then that he comes out
of sober clothing and into his glory of
summertime raiment. To be sure there
are points with reference to his winter
clothing that are worthy of record When
1t is cold he wears the frock coat of the
old school. but with variations. The va
riations are in the way Of vests. These
are white and cut very low No day
dawns without the gentleman from Ala
hama donnng fresh white vest of pris-
tine cleanliness Like unto a full dress
vest is its cut. Yet with it is worn a soft
shirt that clings affectionately to the
broad chest of the wearer.
About the neck of this Beau
Brummel of the House is always
to be found the broad tie of the
days of Zachary Taylor The band
Evening star., 1913-06-22

from Indiana is a tirst-class. all-round
dresser of the new school. His clothes
are nobby. well tailored modish. Moth
ing that he wears might not be seen in
the most fashionab BILE 9TH Avenue circles
except the sugar loaf hat.
Washington had not seen one of these
hats for thirty years until the Vice Presi-
dent brought his to town. The younger
generation did not know how to desig-
nate it. 1t was called a French tile
and sugar loaf by those who pur-
ported to know. Later it was styled an
Irish plug In the end the memory
of observers began to go back to the
days OF youthful associations and to re-
call the characters of Dickens who We're
unerringly topped with just this hat with
its curly brim and crown not nearly
as big at the top as at the base. 1t Is the
Micawber tile. 1T promises run.
The Vice President, being a most ap-
proachable and genial man. was cate
chiZed about the hat. He said he bought
1t because he liked it. The proportions
appealed to him as being especially
graceful. He said he didn't give hang
what people thought about it; he was go
ing to wear that same sugar loaf hat to
the end of time.
And he does it. Each Sunday he may
be seen wearing it TO church. With it on
these occasions he wears long black
coat, a white tie, loose trousers and pat
Evening star., 1913-06-22
Anecdotes Concerning
Well Km0wm P@opla
Proving His Title.
L. HAMILTON. a millinery expe,

A L. HAMILTON, a millinery EXPERT.
complained in New York about the
tariff clause prohibiting the importation.
for millinery uses, of all wild bird feat h
ers save the oStrich's.
Mr. Hamilton pointed out that many
game birds are killed for sport and food,
and that many other birds are killed be-
cause they are pests, and he asked why
the Audubon societies would have the
feathers of all these birds wasted
Il represent the birds. Mr.. Hamilton, %
said an Audubon devotee Il speak for
the birds. Whom do YOU represent, and
what right have you to speak,"
Il represent the millinery trade Mr..
Hamilton answered. Il speak for the
thousands who will he thrown out of work
II this foolish clause goes into effect. AS
to my right to speak-well, | think I'm
rather in the position of the department
store proprietor there.
A department store proprietor inau-
gurated in the basement ten-cent, three
course luncheon for his workers. He
thought, one day, he'd try the luncheon
himself. and accordingly he hoped up on
to a peg and called for the soup. But the
waiter. not knowing him, said:
"'Oh. no. mister. You amt in on this
You don't belong to this store
I'm quite aware of that the proprie-
tor answered. The store belongs to me-
Evening star., 1913-06-22

of it is so wide that it all but obscures
the white collar beneath it. These ties
are to be seen in the pictures of the
statesmen of the time of our GRANDPA
thers. Just now they are coming back
into fashion. The young bloods in your
town and mine are this year wearing
them. They are doing it because of Rep
resentative Heflin. For years he has set
the example and insisted until at last
the stern dictators of fashion have been
forced to yield.
But it is in summer that the gentle
man from Alabama is at his hest. With
the warm days he throws off the sober
raiment of winter In place of the
mournful frock coat there appears suit
of pongee nearly white. \ light tie. but
still of the broad type. is substituted for
the dark one. The ankles of the states
man are incased in white silk hose, and
white canvas shoes are upon his feet
Atop of this model Ct a hot-weather man
is a panama of the finest weave So are
the extra sessions welcomed by the most
careful dresser on the House side.
One Of the most correct and precise
and particular dressers in public life
is Oscar Underwood the House leader
of the majority. There is never any,
thing loud or fiashy or extreme in the
costume of Mr.. Underwood, His suit
patterns are dark and conventional,
They are cut by the best tailor obtaina-
BILE. their fit is neat and immaculate
they are without wrinkle or speck.
Evening star., 1913-06-22

during the terror. Afterward she was
compelled to support herself by keep
ing one of the most select schools even
Paris has ever known. Eliza Monroe
charming letters testify. and she drilled
her in all that relates TO etiquette.
consequently, when Mrs. Monroe was
first lady of the land, her daughter.
then married TO Judge George Hay of
Virginia, was her chief councillor. Mrs.
Monroe was the first to announce that
the wife of the President would make
no calls nor return any. This dictum
caused quite a sensation in the diplo-
matte corps, when the grande danes,
often bearing titles, We're accustomed to
sneer at the crude ways of the pio-
neer republic. Mrs. Monroe and her
daughter, Mrs. Hay, graded the officials
in the three divisions that comprise
the government. and this rating is ac-
cepted now with little change The
premier of the cabinet, the Secretary o.
State ranked after the President and
Vice President. and then came the
other cabinet members as their offices
were created. Mrs. Hay accustomed to
the regal ways of Paris, was an auto
crat and ruled Washington with an
iron hand and against her dictum there
were many revolts. some of them fla =
nous.
1T was she who decided that the mar
riage of her young sister. Maria Mon
roe, twenty years her junior, to Samuel
l.. Gouverneur was private family mat
ter and not a matter which concerned
Washington officially. When the affair
became a matter Of acute gossip, as one
may well imagine 1t would be. it was
announced from the Presidents office
that the marriage would occur at such
a time and day and hour, that Washing
ton officially nor the foreign corps were
expected to take no cogniZance of the
event Only family circle witnessed that
first nuptial event IN the homes of the
Presidents In the National Intelligencer
of March II, in 1920, appeared the only
public notice of the event, and it read,
ON Thursday evening last (March ., 1920
i'm this city, by the Samuel Laurence
Gouyerneur. esq. of New York to Miss
Maria Hester, youngest daughter of
James Monroe, President of the United
States.
ITO compare this with the lengthy cir
cumstanial descriptions of recent mar
wide difference between the customs less
than hundred years ago and those ac-
cepted now. After the wedding trip the
President and Mrs. Monroe gave hand
some evening levee to the bride and her
husband. and all the great world at
Washington was invited to meet the
Evening star., 1913-06-22

Their one distinguishing characteristic
aside from their excellence is the fac
ings of silk that always accompany the
dark suits of the leader
Representative Edwin Y. Webb OF
Shelby. n. c.. the ranking member of the
judiciary committee of the House. is the
possessor of forty vests of as many col
ors and textures. Fancy vests are the
distinguishing feature of this young rep
resentative's costume. AS one OF the
House managers upon the occasion of
the Impeachment trial of Judge ArchbOld
he wore vest of gray brocaded plush,
a creation Of so exquisite a nature as to
greatly test the concentration of the
members OF the Senate who were seek
ing recourse to the judicial tempera-
ment.
Representative James ]. Fitzgerald.
who, as chairman of the House commit
tee on appropriations is the purse holder
of the nation, is likewise a diaper dress
er and lover of fancy vests Timothy
Woodruff of New York. one of the early
wearers of the gorgeous waistcoat once
made the statement that many sad
heart beats beneath a fancy vest This
will again be verified if the tariff of the
democracy does not spell popularity.
On the House side of Congress there
are many other democrats who have
flung the uniform of politics to the wind
and arrayed themselves in accordance with
their varying tastes. Francis Burton
Harrison, descendant of family that
has produced two Presidents and unlim-
Evening star., 1913-06-22

might be told of the introduction of
other French modes. the stays and
various other parts of lingerie, which
Americans adopted as the country be-
gan to flourish md the models for which
were brought back by distinguished ID
travellers.
That was great era for letter
writing and most delightful missives
were exchanged by the great ladies
in Washington society when they
wished to hold levees. Mrs. George
Hay was most accomplished with her
pen. having been particularly trained
by Nine. Campan. Among her COM
panions in that renowned school for
royalty and the nobility during the
first empire was HOrtense, daughter OF
Napoleon IIk warm friendship
sprang up between the girls. which
lasted through their lives. George Hay,
who married Eliza Monroe, assumed
pliment to his wife's friend. and their
only child. a daughter. was called
Hortensia. This lady became the sec
ond wife of Lloyd Rogers of Balti-
more. owner of Druid Hill Park. Judge
Hay was the prosecuting attorney of
the United States at the trial of Aaron
:turr and was a powerful political man
OF mis- day"
Mrs. Hoes is in every sense Wash
inStonian, though she was born in
china. Her father. the second Sam
Uel Laurence Gouverneur and the last
in the male line of that historic fam
lE, was in the navy. and her birth oc.
Cured while he was serving his riau
in oriental waters. She was called in
compliment to the land Of her birth
Rose du Chine, which has been smpii-
led into plain Rose. Mr.. and Mrs.
Gouverneur returned to Washington
when their three children were quite
small, and the latter received their
education here, made their debuts and
two of them were married from the old
home on G street.
Mrs. Hoes is proud of the fact that
her book training was received in the
Franklin Public School of this city She
is of the type, however, whose education
began rather than finished with school
duties, for she is keen observer of
things passing, besides being diligent
student of the records of past and pres
ent. She has made several historical
studies of subjects of vast interest to
Washington and to the country generally.
One of these relates to houses occupied
by great men, to the ownership of prop
erty in Washington and to the old mar
kets. all of which have passed away.
These papers are in frequent demand by
Evening star., 1913-06-22

nR. LYMAN ABBOTT was discus sir
without bitterness. at a luncheon
New York, his ousting from the pres
dency of a peace society
The ideal of peace is divine and 81
perb,' he said land this ideal will SON
day be realized. But. at present, man
pretty selfish animal"
Smiling and shaking his head, DIR. Al
bott added:
In the great cry for universal peac
the howl of the under dog is the dom
nant note"
Evening star., 1913-06-22

young couple But sent gifts eX-
cept the families, and none were expected
even to write letters of congratulation.
Mrs. Monroe brought back to this coun-
try many of the more elegant fashions
in vogue az the French capital. For in
stance, an old resident of Washington
told me recently that she introduced for
the first time the wearing of pantalettes
by women and girl children. 1t seems
laughable to know that when the revolu-
ton ended we We're very primitive people
content to get mere necessities. and that
such elegant articles as the French af-
Evening star., 1913-06-22
Well C0untered.

A NDRE DE FOUQUIERES, the coti
4 = Ion leader of Paris, is, like most G,
tillon leaders, very gentle and mild Z
manner.
During NJ. de Fouquieres' visit 10 Ne
York well known matron, after tall
ing TO him for some ten or fifteen mir
utes at a dance. said:
Now, trot along, M de FoGauiere
You're altogether too ladylike for me.
The young Frenchman, rising. answered
I'm sorry | cant say the same fo
you, madam"
Evening star., 1913-06-22

MAYOR GAYNOR, at luncheon in
AvA Brooklyn, praised New York's abun-
dance of amusements.
New York furnishes the people," he
said with more amusements of a whole
some and uplifting kind than any other
city in the world except Paris.
Let us be thankful that We live in
New York instead of in of those
gloomy cities whereof the citizens say:
1.-The only place our people have to
60 is back to work.
Evening star., 1913-06-22
indicating John D.
"OLD John d. is maligned mar
said a broker

"OLD John D: is malisned man,
said a broker
John d., as / was saving is maligne,
He never gave out those precepts {
miserllness We are always hearing Ol
Uncle Russell-Uncle Russell Sase-eay
them out. John d. has always advised
reasonably high scale OF living He
been maligned. And he feels It, too
He talked about 1t the last time
golfed with him at Pocantrro Hills.
ny. he said, i m no Russell Sag,
As We journey through life. let us liy
by the way-thats my policy. Dow
with those people who are so intent q
putting something by for a rainy da
thaf they never get any enjoyment ou
of pleasant weather."
Evening star., 1913-06-22

CHE Has Been a Diligent
- Student of History. Espe-
cially Where 1t Touches the
Evolution of Social Customs
in the Capital-Was Born
Rose Gouverneur, Daughter
of Samuel L. Gouverneur, jr.,
Who Was the Son of Maria
Monroe. First Bride of the
White House and Wife of
Marion Campbell.
Evening star., 1913-06-22

HOSE who love to
delve into the rec
ords of heroic days
and c OF n e the
early fathers of the
republic with flesh
and blood will ex-
perience deep pleas
Ure In a chat with
Mrs. Hoes, great
granddaughter OF
James Monroe. fifth
President of the
Evening star., 1913-06-22

frock coat, one and another and aholhei
from the outer darkness where the unor-
thodox dwell and are wont to wear gay
raiment. Such as appeared so accou-
tered were led aside by the veterans of
democracy who had survived many bat
ties at the polls. They were admonished
that the folks back home hated dude
and that whose wore a loud vest was
doomed to that Oblivion which settles
upon him who fails Of reelection
The hair of the successful politician.
they said. is infrequentlv shorn and on
intimate terms with the coat collar. No
stiff nor dapper headgeaT ever covered
the thinkpot of a statesman. The string
tie black or white, was the regulation
The frock coat should depend in creases
that had been deepened by time. the
trousers should bag bounteously at the
knees and the shoes should be black and
square at the toe. As a soldier would alp
pear in civilian togs on dress parade and
as he would get the AK, so with him
who departs from the prescribed clothes
OF craftsmanship.
Yet the peacock has thrust itself into
this flock of gray democratic doves. The
Dirl OF pdTdulSe HdS itS ~ OF
their very nesting place. The pheasant
has iuffed its feathers upon those politi-
cal perches near the very top of the
roosts. Yet lightning has not struck nor
has an outraged constituency stood on its
hind legs and howled for the blood of the
offenders.
II is five minutes past the hour of noon
In the United States Senate The gavel
fell at noon and the mill is already at
work with most of the members of the
upper house in their places. The door
which is just opposite the Vice Pres
dents chair. and. incidentally. the press
gallery. swings open and the nattiest
figure in all America. Senator Jim Ham
Lewis of Chicago. enters. In his hand is
a fine, soft. nearly white hat. 1t is
crushed in most originally at the sides.
and the brim has two or three studied
breaks in II. The hat has a mussed-up
appearance more studied than could be
any state OF perfect condition.
Senator Jim Ham places his dapper
cane beneath his arm Slowly. one finger
at time. he removes his lemon-colored
kid gloves. Allowing the correct amount
of time well drilled page approaches
as the last finger comes out of the glove
Senator Jim Ham shakes hands with the
page II Is a stunt. No other senator
ever shook hands with his page thus
formally every morning. The page takes
the lemon-colored gloves. the studiedly
N. =
senator has entered the chamber
He claws caressingly at the nation
famed pink whiskers that have been
more written about than any other hir-
suite appendage that the nation has ever
known. Then he starts back of the last
row of seats. First he stops and shakes
hands with Senator Tillman, whose place
is nearest the entrance. In the back row
he similarly accosts Senators O'Gorman,
Thornton, Bankhead and others in that
tier. Eventually he reaches his own seat
to the far right. Casually he glances over
the papers on his desk, then drifts about
the Senate chamber, shaking hands with
every man on the floor. 1t is another
stunt incidentally 1t gives an opportu-
nifty to exhibit the most exauistely fin
Evening star., 1913-06-22


QUITTING the Lily to
l Shame-Jim Ham Lewis
Is the Ranking Member OF
the Senate Committee on
Personal Adornment But
He Has His Wellington in
Representative Hef1in-Varl-
Gus Foibles of Dress In and
Out of Congress-Vice Presi-
dent Marshall's Sugar Loaf
Hat-The Garb of Members
of the Cabinet.
Evening star., 1913-06-22

fected We're unknown. The long frilled
pantalettes. familiar in pictures of
children taken in the first half of the CEN
tury and later. We're first shown in Wash
ington by Mrs. James Monroe and her
little girl. Maria, who became my grand
mother.
They were Immediately craze,
though the wearing of them was con-
sidered A foreign luxury and in a way
unpatriotic. Mrs. Martha Jefferson
them the impress of her influence and
they became permanent Institution
in the garbing of women all over the
American continent as they We're in
every other portion of the civilized
world. An equally interesting tale
Evening star., 1913-06-22

ished toilet that bard has ever sung. Mat
ted curls classically chiseled feature
forid and abundant whiskers as shapely
as a swans breast. lavender tie pierced
by a scarab pin. gray vest roughish.
cutaway coat. And. with these. that ever
present touch of the connoisseur. the past
master of the art of dressing. the genius
who can accomplish effects that all the
care in the world would miss. The en-
trance of Jim Ham Lewis into the Sem
ate each day is an event. Old Washingto-
mans go to the Senate gallery just to see
of producing just the desired effect. The
ten to music in perfect cadence. 1t is art,
nursed by genius, improved by inspira-
tion. perfected by infinite care.
The Beau Brummel of them all has
thus been given precedence in this story.
Yet he is not alone among the demo-
Gratis as one who is entirely familiar with
the business of wearing effective clothes
effectively.
Take President Wilson, for instance. He
may almost be said to be ''natty dress
err And the President is a man who
of President Wilson's physique has quite
six feet tall, and weighs 10 pounds. The
is just sufficient to round out the form.
He is not the spare man he is reputed to
be. He has also escaped the curse of un
Evening star., 1913-06-22

a clock of wonderful design also a fol-
mer possession of James Monroe and In
gift of Lafayette Mrs. Hoes has tw
sons. one a youth attending the hig
school and the other recent gradual
of Yale.
Evening star., 1913-06-22

is another of the many treasurers in this
home. Mrs. John Still Winthrop, by
Sully, is dainty and most valuable
piece of work. A relic treasured above
gold and jewels. is a letter from Mime.
Lafayette to Mrs. Monroe. and there Is