The chronicle=news., 1913-11-19

l
tailored suits and this autumn the
tailored suits are unusually attare-
| tive. rE" new fabric known D, the
name Of duNctyn. CIR pehu de I,eche.
which u used extensively for such
suits. is the sensation OF the sea on.
IL gives To til" figure a fuppicn.ss
that many OF the other figures d.ny
II. II ls warm nhd yet soft and can
be manipulated .asiI. into folds and
hrap"ry. The coIOrs in il are good.
for there is gom.ihins about the
IN. soft. smoky tone, Of red. gray.
| purpi" and gfc"n that mos; women
ran wear.
In dark srcsn. dnr. purple anu
dccp khaki one sees the najorl,. oT
street suits. PaIuin u,es more ma
rim. blue than any other house. and
she also uses coats Of silk matclis,e.
which rome OF the other houses have
dropped altogether. Whatever the
weave or coior Or name OF tn. mate
rials used. they ar" all sofi. Ncionrs
WIS too heavy To drnpc. aud there
were many women who complained
that " dIi moi wear well. II Is too
early to ray whether or not dn,-tyn
viii merit the sam. rerroach, hut
IL In the fabric OF tn" day, aud Amer
lea viii probably b. wearing II NJ
steadily as Paris when the cold scs-
sen begins.
81 far ibcr. ha. br.n no return to
long coats. except IN. compromise
made by pa!uin Between the long
godct coat and til" snort narlIs one.
Young slim figures will wear straight
little coats that have much charm
loosely from the shoulder. arc
rounded below the whist ut the back
and tit up In front. They are fart
cncd In a straight line to the nee.
aud topped or with rom. kind nj
.iirh. loose collar thl; does not cling
closely tothc neck. The sleeves are
long and usually exaggerated In
shape. They are never conventional.
nor do they start from conventional
armhoiss.
II might he said uf aii the clothes
ofthe day that they are comfortable.
They hang fromthc body instead OF
confintns H.: the shoulders are broad
and full. III. sleeves are immense:
the waists show no idea OF restraint.
and tue movement of the skirt ut the
knees IL Ike that OF a pair Of 7ouavc
trousers. The only part Of the whole
costume where one may cypcc, to
find discomfort Is In the narrow loot
line.
The oool weather OF the past week
has brought out u large number of
fur wrars. The kind that Is ncwcst
and most couuettish IL like IA very
small shawl with points not only In
the middle Of the back. but also over
the hips. Fur will be used not only
for wraps Tut AFRO for trimmings on
dresses. Nothing else can replncc Il.
II any won1i. possesses u fur coat or
boa that is worn. or II she hua pieces
no matter OF what peltry. new Is her
time to pick out the best parts. cut
them into strtps and put them on her
winter dresses. All kinds OF fnrs
are being used to adOrn not only the
morning tailor made. but the dre.'sy
afternoon and diaphaEous evening
frOck No fur is too humble CT too
luxurious for some purpose.
The smart pelts OF the winter sea-
son viii be molcskin. broadtnit. seal.
baby caracul and pony skin. The
best liked fur coat mO'iels are In cut
away effects, straight front. or box
blo,ised. as the trade terms them.
And in full models japanese styles
arem uch favored. hut perhaps the
nevis wraps are the mantellettes.
and they are charmineiy chic when
developed in pelts. These little
wraps extend trifle below tie
waist line at the back in rounded
fashion. have kiu.ono sleeves aud a
squire cut Off line ut the waist in
front.
4 new and rather peculiar feature
of the coat oft he season Is the col-
lar. There is no attempt ut lifting
IN this collar. After the many years
when the fit of the collar made or
narred the garment II as n bit start
ling to learn now that the collar
should not tit. Tho bunchier and
.lunsier the ncrkpiece the smarter
the wrap is considered at the pres
sht time. Naturally such collar
L.