Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1913-07-23

fV so-c.Iled prophets of fashion
who say the separate waist is
dead will have an uncomfortable
awakening II her summer outfit has
been bought on such advice.
So far from being defunct the sep
arate waist has an important place
In every womans Quitting. even that
OF the very fat provided she
keep her coat on when the blouse does
not match the skirt
Exquisite lingerie waists may be
bought. but equally good looking ones
can be made at half the cost. Thus
the woman who must dress on a small
allowance does we'll to make her sep
arate thin waists If she does no
other dressmaking for herself. Once
get a shirtwaist pattern that fits cor
rectly and a variety of waists ay
be adopted from II
The easiest way to use such pat
tern is to cut 1t from a cheap muslin.
fit carefully, mark alterations, exact
height and width OF gathers for belt
line. correct width and length OF
sleeves, then rip the waist to pieces
and use instead of a paper pattern.
Where tucking is used It is done
before the muslin is cut ous, but the
pattern proper is always pain. II
you like the long shouldered or klmono
effects for some of your waists, have
a good separate pattern for each style,
fit IT in cheap material. mark and rip
as described. This means initial
work but saves untold time and
trouble for months to come,
The novelties that mark each sea
sons shirtwaists are easily added to
one of these three styles by any one
at all proficient in sewing. woud
advise any home dressmaker 70 make
tour OF the stores to sec what peo-
pie are wearing. One may have fine
technique In sewing. but II she has
no ideas her work will be in the anna
teur class noticeably In the new
blouses there are fascinating new
touches in collars, ties. and frills that
easily may be copied.
Lingerie Blouse for Outdoor Wear,
The popular materials for this sea.
sons lingerie waists are plain,
striped, or. best OF ALL the embroid-
cred voiles. batiste. the finer crepes,
handkerchief linen. and mulls. For
heavier waists madras. percale. and
linen are always good style, but just
now the soft. semI-sheer blouses are
more used even for outing occasions
and sports II you want a heavier
material madras is the best choice. as
linen wrinkles almost Immediately
and percale Is not 'dressy."
The amount OF goods needed for
the separate blouse depends largely
upon the style selected, the width
OF the goods. and the size OF the
wearer. From two and half to three
yards of yard wide material is safe
quantity If there is to be much tuck.
ing or plaitings allow for them.
The lingerie blouse may be divid.
ed roughly into two groups-those
that are what one girl of my acquaint'
ance calls "shirtwaisty." otherwise
those that are intended primarily for
sports, morning wear, and undress oc.
casion generally; and those that are
more distinctly bIouses and are more
or less deliberately trimmed. The
former class almost without exception
open in front; the others open In the
back or have the opening concealed
under a plait.
Today | shall deal entirely with the
former class, as they are much In evi.
dence this season, especially for
younger women. While women OF
middle age and older wear these smart
little waists. the high neck blouse
lines are as a rule more becoming
Yokes are much used again and the
first waist OF the group is simple
but smart style OF white batiste with
colored batiste cuffs. collar, and ties
without tucking or other trimming
save entire deux or beading in the
seams.
Pin your plain shirtwait pattern
together on shoulder seams as It is
when finished and cut a yoke pattern.
This forms a straight line across the
back three and a half inches deep
from middle Of back to neck and five
and a half inches deep at the arm
hole. The yoke rs cut without shout
der seam and comes down In front
about the same depth az In the back
at armhole with the line cut straight
across TO the neck. ending about an
inch and half above the point OF
the slightly surplice collar.
Fit your yoke and see that II comes
to the desired depth. Use as a pat
tern. then fold OF that amount from
the top of your regular pattern and
cut two fronts ard back. allowing a
little extra width to be slightly fulled
into the yoke. The novice vii. find It
easier, perhaps, to buy a separate
pattern for each style of waist she
makes. but the method described is
perfectly simple
Easiest to Have Separate Pattern.
The fullness Of the shirtwaist is
Joined to the yoke on the two fronts