The chronicle=news., 1913-01-28

New York, Jan. 2S,-The fashion,
Ing of gowns is no longer matter
subject TO set and rigid rules. 1t has
become an art and only artists In
their meter can ever hope to succeed
III prOducin. mcd"rn gowns aud cos
tunes that ar" really beautiful and
becoming, Darts. cores and other de-
vices for the shaping of garments are
eliminated from fashionable toilcttes
of the present. a length of goods Is
drapcd about The figure to form the
skirt. the fuliuess being lifted or low
cred al will to form the drGpcry. Fab
r!cs are neither cut nor sewn, hut
swathe the figure. They are often
left open at the lem TO reveal u
Ilimps OF the ankles. aud in the for
nation OF TIE train. thcr. is no SET
rule. II may be u, the back II II con-
ycniently falls that way. but IN some
OF the new draped .orms the train
goes off to the side.
The natural and beautiful lines of
the body are retained In the fashions
OF today. In all OF the new drapci
effects the skirt Is closc about tn"
feet. and the fulln.ss spreads Just
below the curve OF ;hc hips. This
fullness Is often placed In the form
OF hood-likc or loop drapcries from
the bcl'. Such u thing MS i dart for
fitting u skirt Is ut present unknown.
II tn. material cannot bc adjusted 10
the belt through the dropping down
OF u part OF tn. fabric fullncss II Is
iaid In regular Dlcats or gathered.
II the construction OF the bodice
du,tc A. many new and extraordinary
ideas prevail us in the skirt. Til"
d lao
come In for their share oil eccentric
iiy In cut. They defy all rules. hav-
Ing seams wher. s.ains are least "S-
r.cfed to bc found. and having no
seams wh.r. they iiaN. hereiofor"
been found.
In the newest bodic"S and coat =
the underarm seam Is lacking. Til"
shaping is don" by means Of the
sholitr seam. or through the applI-
cation OF surviving yok. which cS-
ADD FADS AND FASHIONS
,,nIs Down 10 fern III" Top OF the
sleeve. Unlike III. kimono cut y, tn"
ordinar, form which had no shou'-
der seam or nriahoic seam. but have
an undcrlrm seam. the new bodice
now haE no undcrurm seam. but has
an armholc and shoidcr scan.
MANY OF the new separate waists, M
well US simple costumes. nave fuil-
length sleeves aud ,h.r. are also
many Of the more dr.ssy gowns Will,
long sleeves. The k!mono form has
been retained TO som. extent. but II
IL the kimono set on to the dropping
or extending shoulder aud brought
down into fitted form. There are II
Ia, t.I rel. 81 n
sleeve. some OF which are straight
hanging. others flaring and open. and
stu others In the bell shape.
New evening skirts are slash.'l
and Gu, np about the feet In all
sorts of frivolous fashions. and yet
such skirts do not appear the leas,
out OF the way when worn by lady.
The long lines and the openings dis
close nothing say. u dainty white or
uo1ored stocking, and stockings being
in evidence this winter. now fill an
important. place In the wardrobe for
both day and evening wear Low
shoes. or. rather. slippers. are still
worn for the street. and II Is con-
sidered quite chic to put on pair OF
Colored hose with a black slipper.
Whomcn who 20 out great dcn!
In the evening. or those who put on
evening dress for dinner. this. win
ter. are having several plain satin
slips OF white nd various delicate
dyes made. over which Is to be slip
ped tunic OF net. moussclinc. or tul-
lc. embroidered. beaded or finished
in pearl trimming. with such chang
cs. new gown is the effect all the
time. while the expense Is greatly re-
duced.
\ practical scarf to be thrown
over the shoulders at the opera or
in II drauShty ball room Is one OF
coarse lace edged with swansdown.
the latter OF white or any tone on,
wishes. Thes carf is about u yard
and n half wide. or 1t may be three
corncred in shape. all ut the desire
of the wearer. Tile effect is dainty,