Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-16

house that the Japanese idea sprang, fun
fiedged. into Caucausian clothes
The Persian influence is the strongest
we have had since the directoire, and it
is believed by those who are high in the
councils that 1t will remain for months
and months to come.
1t is exceedingly difficult for any one
but an oriental scholar to put the finger
on the exact point where the Persian in
fuence ends and the Turkish influence
begins. and the other way around The
east is a tumble Of many things that
come from a common origin and re-
semblc each other closely. and 1t is prob
ably better to use the word oriental in
describing the new influence in fashion.
One gown may be made up of a zouave
skirt. Minaret tunic. ropes of pearls
in Persian fashion dropping from
shoulder to wrist, simulated Turkish
jacket and Japanese sash. One thing
may be distinctly stated: none of the
modern clothes are governed by Gauca-
sian influences. They are modelled and
modulated by Caucasian taste, which
makes them quite available for our wom-
ell to wear.
The woman who is fond of beads can
indulge that fondnesS to any extent she
wants this winter-the Persian influence
allows that. Even her sleeves may he OF
five strings of crystal beads caught at
the shoulders and wrist with bracelets
of brilliants.
The girdle on her evening gown may
be from two TO six inches wide, a lattice
work of pearls held by huge coiorcd
cabochon in front. and the fullhess of
the tunic may be held down by garlands
of pearls that arc usually suspended
from the jeweled belts of dancing girls.
The Minaret tunic is only one of the
many manifestations of Persian influ-
ence. The upward drapery of the skirt
toward the front is a highly accented
one, and the low bodice of tulle with its
waist arrangement of jewels extending
TO the bust is third manifestation.
The revival of the pleated skirt III
August at such houses as Premet ana
Paauin caused ripple in interest and
those who were not on the inside shout
ed happily that the narrow skirt was
out Well. the narrow skirt has been out
for year, except where the hem was
concerned, and the pleated skirt mad
nothing to do with this change or Will II
influence the narrow hem today.
It is of special interest now because the
new skirts made for the mid-season trade
are fashioned in this manner Of course,
the peg top. or Zouave. or Turkish skirt
whichever you choose to call lt--mlght
be called a pleated skirt also, put one
thinks of it as draped.
This new kind of pleated skirt is at
tached to a deep yoke which entirely
covers the hips and fiattens them INTO
straight line. it is even at the edge or
irregular Some of them are shaped
away on a strongly biased line from the
front to back to harmonic with the line
of the cutaway coat. others are dlppeu
down in front and vanish to point at
the waist in the back, where they are
finished with flat bow. in imitation OF
the apron drapery which Cheruit intro
duced.
y
There is nothing about these skirts 10
suggest the absurd ones of several years
ago which ended in f1aring pleatins
and were held down by wide sash. Ihis
new skirt is eminently smart and dig
nified. and it is probable. mind you only
probable, that it will succeed the wldely
pleated peg-top skirt after the nrst OF
the wear That prophecy, however, Is at
too long range to have any particular
value attached to it. Something new