The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1913-05-03

Fads and Fashions

.By FLORENCE FAIRBANKS

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conspicuous detail in many of the
gowns exhibited. Sometimes they
were in black on beige, or turquois on
pale gray, or white on silk Bedford
cord in which the ribs were rose and
white alternately. The bindings were
narrow, not a quarter of an inch in
width, and were used in various ways.
There was, for example, a mauve
charmeuse dress with tunic of black
net, perfectly plain black net, which
was cut so as to ripple slightly around
the bottom. The edges of the very
short sleeves and the lower edge of
the tunic were bound with little roll
of turquois satin. This stiffened it
just enough to make the ripple appar-
ent while the color contrast was most
effective. The black, of course, being
over the mauve, was softened and be-
came a mere yelled color.
Many of the skirts showed a slash
of greater or lesser degree. Often
these cuts were only a few inches
deep. They were frankly cut out of
the hem of the breadth, not formed by
overlapping draperies. In some of the
| trained evening gowns there were long
splits where the drapery crossed in
front, and these showed the leg, in
walking, almost to the knee.
A tailored suit in dark blue serge
had two rows of buttons and button
holes from the waist to the hem; one
at the side, toward the front; the 9TH
er at the opposite side, toward the
back. These were left open to the
height of about six buttons, producing
two slashes.
SO many evening wraps and dressy
short coates are trimmed in fur that
it looks as if fur would be a part of
the Summers finishes to the best
toilets. Fur is more than a mere
touch to the evening gown, while on
the iunty little abbreviated coates it
is used only sparingly Chinchilla is
the most popular peltry but ermnie
and swansdown are also used. Chin
chilla looks rather heavy and wintry,
while the white fur and swansdown
give light, summary effect
Evening wraps, as rule, are very
sumptuous. They are generally made
in solid and figure-faced satins. AS a
rule the flowers or designs are big
and are printed so as to stand out
boldly. The background is white or
light and the flowers in the brilliant
colors that are prevalent this season.
Some of the fashionable ones, too,
have a black or scarlet background
with lighter brilliant designs scattered
over the surface. The new wraps are
all short and round. Some are made
godet some with a Vatican plait
either from the middle of the back or
from one shoulder.
Toile de Juoy effects have returned
to favor triumphantly. The patterns
and colorings are copied in satins.
silks, velvets, brocades, and in crepe
cotton goods. For the last few years
toile de Juoy has been more or less
used as a light trimming, it being
considered too heavy and vulgar for
anything more. than a suggestion in
the way of color or flower. Now it is
used frankly and without any attempt
at discreet moderation.
Blouse vests are composed of the
toile de Juoy, and when repeated in
more expensive fabrics entire sleeves
wraps and coates may be of the eff
feet. At recent exhibit there was a
lovely evening dress of satin the shade
of chartreuse, the skirt draped to fall
in little plaits down the front, and the
fullness gathered to form an overskiri
at the back. The pointed back and
front of the corsage was relieved by
fichu of white moUsseline. The
cachet and novelty lay in the sleeves
which were of chartreuse mousseline