davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
SEVEN-EIGHTHS LENGTH.

Practically all of these wraps are mod
elled on Eastern designs. showing the
long. lose folds and voluminous drapings
so characteristic OF the Oriental garments.
In this country the seven-eighths length
wrap is the more popular, probably be-
cause wraps are worn on the street here
more than they are across the water,
where cab hire is very cheap and every
one rides. All OF the new wraps are show
ing fare in the skirt instead Of the
close draping around the hips which has
been a feature OF these wraps In the past.
The first coat OF this type was designed
by Paul Poiret. who conceived the idea
after studying the Russian priests robes.
The entire garment is large and roomy,
with gradual fare at the hem, pro-
duced BY extra width in the skirt OF the
garment. I'm the heavier materials Ike
yelours de laine or duvetyn. no wiring Is
resorted to; but in the softer fabrics wiz
ing and bones are used, as they are In the
MInaret tunic Such "A coat demands a
trimming Of fur, and il appears In the
shape of square collar deep fiaring Guns
which reach quite to the elbow and
deep band, fully ten inches wide, at the
hem of the skirt.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30

IN washing muslin curtains they VIII
,oo,, more sheer il you boil two quarts
of wheat bran In six quarts Oh water ior
half an hour and strain and mix In the
water in which the curtains are 10 oe
washed Rinse lightly IN clear. cold water
and dry.-Winnipeg Free Press.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
MEANS NEW HAIRDREssING.

Worn by the Parisiennes. they are as
fascinating as they are unusual. IL Is
dificuIt 10 describe them. for their style
lies entirely in the manner in winch they
arc worn The crowns are soft very
much of the beret shape, and they are
generally fashioned from MORE or panhe
velvet for the afternoon and evening
There IS a band OF fur, skunk or fitch en-
c,rcline the brim. The mount at the sldo
NAV be any kind OF feathery fantasy, nut
aigrettes are rapidly losing caste In FAVOR
Of ostrich feathers. Though this mount Is
arranged at the side OF the hat, 1t ap-
nesrs TO rise from the top OF the heau
when the hat is correctly adjusted FROM
this fact one may gather little idea oil
the daring of the Parisienne who mas
adonted this style OF headgear. While
fitting her hat at this periious angle she
has also uncovered her ears, almost
straining the hair TO the back Of the mead
and permitting only stray lock or two
70 curl mischievously beside the ear and
right down the middle of the forenead
ike the little girl OF nursery rhyme fame.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30

the lining is sure to reflect n radiant
shade. Poiret fancies the bright orange
tinted creme. and invariably uses It in
wraps like the one just described. The
curious Futurist chiffons and silks make
fascinating Innings for the wraps devel-
oped in plain materials, while the plain
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
SATIN sUPPLANTING TAFFETA.

The founced skirts are sure to be heart
ilv welcomed again in the spring if they
are made adaptable for tangoins. ana
there is no reason why they should not
be. Flounces Of net are seen on many OF
the satin frocks that are supplantnS the
taffeta ones as the season advances
In the more practical frocks. the skirt
is sure tC. be Of satin in one OF its many
varieties. If the frock is for tango tea
the satin will probably be in dark
color. so that the costume may be worn
on the street. The cOrsage may be as
sheer and transparent as in an evening
gown. but the dark hued satin skirt
makes the frock permissible for the street
when the dressy waist is hidden by the
fur coat or cloth wrap. The dark req
shades, the dregs of wine, and the rich
green colors are particularly well liked
for tango frocts. and the waists are made
~ shadow lace or chiffon.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
TUNES WIRED AND NOT WIRED

over the drapcry there is almost sure
to be a Minaret tunic. II may seem as
If a wired tunic would be decidedly in
the way while dancing, but somehow II
seems to sway with the movements of the
wearer in a manner that is not only per-
fectly comfortable to both partners in the
dance, but is very graceful and appeal
ing. Only the very slender girl should
think OF wiring the tunic, however; the
larger woman will find that by weighing
il it will sway and give the desired effect
Of the "Minaret" movement without the
exaggerated outline The newest Minaret
tunics bear close resemblance TO the
skirts of a ballet dancer. and like the
skirts Of the ballet dancer they are cut
so full that they stand out without wiring
or boning of any kind. one, two, three
and even four layers of the net are now
being used. and wonderful blendinGs OF
colors are possible.
A practical model for tangong is the
accordion pleated skirt. The entire skirt
NAV be accordion pleated or merely the
lower hounce or two. but there is no
method of gaining fulness and yet pre-
serving a straight silhouette that is as
successful as the accordion pleatinG.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
WAISTS MUCH ALIKE.

There seems TO be a paucity Of IDEAS
when il comes TO fashioning the
waist of a tango frock. it matters little
whether the frock is TO be worn in the
afteroon or the evening. the waist must
be transparent and light. II is almost
sure TO be made surplice fashion, with
V-openng in the front and perhaps in the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
SASH IMPORTANT.

The sash or girde is an important fea
ture Of the tango frock. Somehow IL
seems to be an integral part of the tango
frock. though why il should be is hard
10 explain, for the tango Is not OF
Eastern origin and tive sash is an
Oriental fancy. The girls and women
with slender, 1.-THE figures cling to
the girdle that broadly swathes the hips.
The newest ones are draped to form a
slanting line from the front TO the back,
where they reach their widest depth.
Fashioned from one OF the gay art nou-
veau silks. they are the making OF one OF
the sombre-hued costumes. The larger
women raise the sash to the Empire line.
letting IL finish at. or just below, the line
once known as a waist line. The Jap
anese bow in the back is growing In favor
as the winter advances. and in size as
well. now spreading quite TO the shoulder
line.
A train is not an impossibility on
tango frock, though il is. TO say the
least, rather superfuous. Still. one often
wishes TO use the tango frock as a dim
ner gown, and a train may be arranged
TO be looped up on the dress for dancing.
1t would take more than the tail of 4
gown TO stop a tango devotee from her
favorite pastime.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30

lH' 10 both in the social and in the
81 w.. world. Except in the East wheh
lssDO" aorce ever developed a fashion!
10 20. over heard of a waltz gown or a
WV ton urban? To be sure, there is the
W. W. dress. but it is a gown OF the
D'" ,'s not of the dance; modern repro
I'i,V w., NJ the stately costume OF cere-
oI'''' norn at the time this dance was
n0"' ,.oduced. The tango. on the other
ms NE has developed a new style OF cos
haiiu' stv1e in direct opposition to the
'l". .nre mode. and, moreover, style
p''b esinning 10 exert revolutionary
'-suonce on the modes
ARE INFLUENCING STYLES.
:, uas not until last summer that the
-. areesmakers really looked upon the
100 seriously. Up TO this time they
% If the opinion that any dancing
w.. oou,d be worn as a tango frock.
~,.v thought of the tango as a strenuous
liz or two-step which the enthusiasts
I'D soon tire of. But when they saw II
$50 they realized that there was a
,.",uat,on and a grace in 1t that would
"a, the Parisiennes until they mas
- I, and they Immediately began 10
,.,hIon dresses which would be comfort
~. One can understand the impression
-, dance had made when a conservative
~. worth announced that he would
m.,o a feature Of tango frocks, and ne
t,s kept his word.
TANGO WlDENS SKIRT.
The first debt of gratitude the devotees
n tho fashion world owe to the Tango
!. the additional width in the skirts. For
the mast two years the designers have
bsen endeavoring by pleats and drapery
n Lot IN a little more fulness, but enter
the Tango. and presto change-the wider
skirt is demanded. The dance has &C
eomplished what even the makers or the
modes we're unable to 90. Because II
WAS impossible TO execute many of the
more intricate steps in the restricted
skirts Of yesteryear, the Tango enthusi-
ssts clamored for wider skirts.
Even in their zeal, however. they IN
sisted upon the fulness being let in with
stealth The additional fulness must be
here for A long glide or jump, but II
must not be in evidence when the wearer
is at rest. To produce fulness. and yet
not have it appear, requires the hand OF
an artist and the fashion magiclans
have been compelled to resort to all sorts
Of subterfugcs. In their searching. they
hit upon the trouserettes. 1t may have
been close study of the East. rather
than the Tango, that inspired the trouser-
cites. but II was surely the Tango that
has brought about their acceptance. They
solve the problem for the Tango dancer
in an ideal manner; they are voluminous
when the wcarer is i'm action and sllnky
When the body is in a state of rest
While the idea of trousers may seem
startling at first. they are really modest
garments, for they conceal the legs, and
even the ankles. in a way that they have
not been enveloped for years, not since
those good old days when pantelettes
made the hoop skirts modest.
TANGO "TRoUSERETTES."
The tango trouserettes are delightfully."-
luxurious garments, made of chiffon and
trimmed with lace. Some are so full that
they appear at first glance to be skirt
L is not until the Wearer is dancing that
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
AUpACioUS BUT POPULAR.

There is no denying the fact that this
model is audacious. but il has been adapt
ed by the American woman with good
deal of success as those who saw 1t at
the Horse Show can testify. To Ameri-
cans who spend part of each year IN
PARIS there is very little difficulty in
adapting French models and endowing
them with the same spirit with which the
Parisenne epdows them; but to the stay
at-home, whose only knowledge OF
French gown is through the FASHION
papers or on manilIins In department
store, the spirit of the French creation is
often entirely lost.
Another Poiret design which has been
extensively copied has a curious cape
Ike arrangement in the back. but even
this novelty does not make ii as interest
ing as a moss green duvetyn wrap whose
entire charm lies in its simple draping ana
in the clever color combination produced
by suede cloth and worsted embroideries
placed at either side OF the belt line.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
ruRBANs MORE POPULAR.

II is doubtful if this extreme style VIII
supplant the popular draped turbans'
which have quite as much dash, but are
more generally becoming. Up to TINS
time velvet has been used most extern
sively for these turbans, but VelVet 10
suffering from over-popularity. fahhe
velvet. MORE and tafTeta are being USED
in IL, place. and some very striking crea-
tions are being evolved from taneta ana
tuIle The brim, and often the neNiDie
crown. are of the taffeta, and the soarlhs
folds NJ the wingllke drapery at the slde
are of the tulle or perhaps the orim ana
crown are of velvet and the drapery at
the side of MORE And for dressy hat
almost any color but black is chosen. The
very practically OF black, when MAKES
4, such an excellent choice for the general
,,t,itv hat makes II a poor choice Tor the
dressv hat II a neutral colorinS Is oo-
,ieatory there are taupe. tete de negre'
vsrv dark blue, and soft rich brown.
one OF the prettest drcssy hats is the
,ricorne of ostrich. The hat is made en-
tireIy of the curled ostrich hues IN Varl-
ous co,ori,,gs and some clever blendlngs
n, color. and is finished with one OF 'he
new cube shaped mounts OF the ostrich
similar idea has been carried out In
peacock feathers
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
VELVET BIRDS sUPPLANT REAL.

A novel trimming for the dressy hat is
the velvet bird. even the head Is tash-
toned from velvet. glorlously shaueu
yellow bird which from distance looked
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
TANGO FROCKS ARE RAPIDLY
INFL UENCING STYLES IN DRESS
Necessary Fune in Skirts for Dance Will Probably Sound DeahKne
q obbe and Usher Wider Skirts Perhaps
Wired Tunic Seems to Be Practical for Dancing

one is aware of the division. and the fact
that the fulness is confined around each
ankle. There are several varieties, some
hanging from the shoulders, others fall
ing from the waistline. and still others
that are attached just above the knee TO
a garter.
over these trouserettes the skirt may
be draped in almost any desired style.
For tangoing. the rounded fronts have
been found successful. more so than the
back slashing. though both are often
seen. When the side slashing is selected.
both sides are generally slit, and volants
OF lace are inset in the openings 1t is
not only that these simulated lace petit
coats are more conservative, but they are
more attractive. and the woman who
realizes the power of clothes has adopted
them in preference to the franker type
Of slashing
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30
ALL SLEEVES LARGE.

The sleeves OF all the wraps, whether
intended for the street or for the evening"
are large Some are kimono in shape
with deep cuffs. usually Of fur; others
gain their width from the raglan shaping
of the shoulders. and these sleeves very
often fare i'm bell lines a. the wrist.
Again. the sleeves are cut in one piece
with the yoke This arrangement Is well
carried out in a wrap Of black velvet and
white brocaded velvet. The upper section
~ black velvet. including the butterfly
oI.a,cs is cut in one piece, and this Is
drawn slightly toward the back by
cash OF the velvet. which ends In huge
Iapanese bow between the shoulders the
,oa,.r mart. Of the brocaded velvet Is
draped up on to the upper section to give
Tho modish bouffant effect at the hips
Tie collar. of white fox. is built on the
unes of "A stole. giving the square effect to
tho shoulders. Very often collar OF this
Kind is extended to form hood when
-. N tho waist line.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-30

back. The back is often built up with a
high Medicl collar of the lace. The
sleeves are kimono nine times out OF ten.
In an afternoon waist they may reach
up to the elbow. seldom to the wrist.
though in evening gowns the long sleeves
are the latest novelty. In the exceptional
waist. one made Of satin rather than of
the chiffon or lace. the sleeves may
hang in bishop fashion TO the wrist.
where they are held in and finished by
lace frill. Through the sheer lacy yelling
one catches glmpses of the cache corset,
now rechristened the tango underbodice.
Like the cache corset, it is trimmed with
chiffon rosebuds and wide bands of rib
hon
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-05-29
MUR|EL'S HOLIDAY
It Was Enforced, but Brought
Happiness Instead Of Ex.
pected Sorrow.
BY AUGUSTUS GOODRICH CHER
WIN.

With q clang a great gate went shut.
and q shrill whistle and the harsh
boom Of q bell told that the giant fac.
tory had begun the noisy grind Of the
business Of the day. The inhexible
rule Of the plant was applied on the
exact second-the worker who was
not inside the walled grounds on the
stroke Of seven need not apply for
admission until the next morning.
Half q dozen scurrying men and
women had crossed the dividing line.
grazed and all but knocked PROSTATE
by the sliding barrier. A pretty, neat.
~ appareled girl reached the gate to
grasp its handle just as the lock shut.
A young man. hurrying too, halted
with a shrug of his shoulders, one-half
dismayed. one-half resigned. These
two were shut out. Others came stray
Cling along in the distance, but turned
about and retraced their way home
wards. realizing the futility Of seeking
admittance.
While Sidney Harper, stock clerk,
took the forced idleness Of day rath.
er indifferently, in fact with rather a
sense OF enjoyable novelty, Muriel
Hope, employed in the Office Of the big
works, paled and her lips quivered. A
sigh that was . sob but half sup
pressed left her lips. Her eyes filled
with tears, and with respondent
step she started slowly from the spot
Sidney Harper construed Alright the
girls deep concern. and his sympathy
was awakened. He was . man who
had steeled himself against pity, but
he could not help but be interested. He
knew that low wages and ceaseless
work held most Of the employees Of
the works bound like slaves to a
wheel. With many Of them the loss
Of a day meant the loss Of some other
days meals. Then a memory Of a
dark passage in his life that had made
him a lonely, resentful being on the
fair threshold of manhood, caused him
to crowd back his interest in the girl.
Once he had loved. 1t was all over
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-05-29

now, but he had never forgotten the
false beauty who had been traitress
to her VOWS.
"Heigh-ho!" he communed with
himself. IN four years Of steady, per.
sistent work at last day off. I'm not
sorry-I'll try and see If am still hu.
man enough to be interested outside Of
the dull treadmill of hard labor"
He had noticed off and on for year
or more the fair young girl who an.
swered to the name Of Muriel Hope.
Once he had adjusted gas jet above
her desk when she had some extra
night work. Only week since, too.
he had brought new chair to replace
the crippled and uncomfortable one
she coupled. After that he had al.
ways bowed to her when they met.
Even that morning they had spoken,
but very briefly in the urgency OF get
ting through the gate In time.
His thoughts came irresistibly back
to the girl as he saw her shift the
lunch box she carried and move her
handkerchief to her eyes, as II to wipe
the tears away. He wondered what
dreary life drama hers might be, what
secret care and trouble might scar hel
tender girlish heart. And then-jus,
as she was crossing q street he saw
her step directly In the path Of an on
rushing automobile. He made a spring
Just at the critical moment he seizet
and drew her out of the way Of 6
dreadful peril, and led her back t
the street curb half fainting with ter
ror.
"Oh-how can I thank you!" sh,
painted, and her hand rested uncon
sciously on his own as though she wal
clad that her rescuer was an acQuaint
ance, II even a casual one.
Had you not better let me help 70,
into the drug store yonder, where 20
an rest till you recover your fright?
e asked solicitously.
ooh, no, | am quite-quits mysel
now" insisted Muriel, although sh
was trembling still and her lips wer
unsteady.
He took her hand and drew
through his arm in kindly brotherl
way she could not resist.
I'VE will walk on slowly them" h
said quietly. Il will see you safel
as far as your home"
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-05-29
CORN STALKS MADE CEILING
Weary Traveller Slept soundiy Amid
Primitive Surroundings In "HoteI"
In Mexico.

A tourist who was tramping over
Mexico last year was put up" for q
night at a lazy, rickety little shack
that was called hotel It was In the
country, in the northern part Of Nuevo
Leon state.
AT that hotel" the tourist said, the
old stage joke about stopping on the
outside was no joke at ALL Very much
travel-worn, I arrived late in the at.
ternoon. There were only two rooms
in the 'posada,' meaning in Mexico
the hotel-a large dining room, and
much smaller side room, which was
kitchen and everything else connect.
ed with the hosiery.
II did not find out until after had
paid, little matter that was demand
ed in advance with such a flourish of
courtesy that l could not hesitate.
spent several perturbed moments, of
and on, wondering where l was to
sleep. However, there were three 9th.
err guests Mexican, who did not ap-
pear to be worrying so I tried to be
patient.
Supper. an affair of lots Of pepper
and little food. was served by the
proprietor's wife. Shortly after night
fall the proprietor. with much bowling
and gesturing and Senior Americana
ing, signified to me that he would
take pleasure In assigning me to my
room. l followed him-out Of the ho-
tel and into small corn patch behind
the building.
In corn row, at q spot where the
overlapping top blades were thick
enough to form a canopy that was at
least dewproof. my landlord halted and
pointed to an old blanket which had
been spread In the hollow between
the rows. and. bowling and Senorins
some more. commended me to the
care of the saints and departed.
THAT was my room. There was an
old frayed mat for a pillow and . d.
lapidated blanket for covering.
did I call up the ONCE and kick or
the room? l did not! The earth was
dry and warm, and having been re
Gently hoed, was not hard; and being
dead tired l turned In at once and had
q dandy Sleep"
The Lakeland evening telegram. (Lakeland, Fla.) 1911-1922, 1913-05-29

She started. drew back, and the tears
gushed from her eyes.
II dare not-that is, l cannot 60
home just now" she faltered. 1T
was of that l was thinking when / SO
carelessly crossed the street, and how
l should pass the long day."
II do not understand" insinuated
Sidney gently.
1T is my dear mother" explained
Muriel pathetically. "She Is an In.
valid, nervous and apprehensive. My
father when he died left nothing but .
house on leased ground. The owner
has raised the rent, and it Is all we
can do to meet his exactions. Every
days wages counts. II l let mother
know had missed one. It would upset
her for q week, with the added dread
that It might lead to my losing work
altogether. l must not 60 home until
night, and must keep the truth from
mother"
A plain story. but infinitely pathetic.
1t made Sidney Harper think. Then In
a halt humorous. half serious tone he
said:
"Miss Hope, this is our day Of CO.
medicines. We miss work together,
you have a house, own a lot We
are like dull children given holiday
and not knowing how to enjoy It.
Won't you help me find q way?"
The clear frank eyes Of the girl
looking into his own saw there only
manliness and respect She entered
into the spirit Of the proposition
smilingly.
II am az unused to holidays as your
SELF" she admitted.
"Just forget your dear mother, and
all your troubles, and the days work.
for = few hours. Miss Hope" advised
Sidney. Help me make It q pleasant.
restful day for both Of U.s."
Children Of the heart, with nothing
sweet in the city for them but the pa.
tient lives Of the poor, 1t seemed as
II the sunshiny, golden hours drifted
them into q veritable fairyland Of en-.
joyment.
Never would Muriel forget the rare
wonder and novelty Of the pleasure
park, where her courteous escort made
her see everything worth seeing.
where they had a delightful lunch in
a water pagoda to the strains Of sweet
music, and then long row on the
dreamy lagoon.
Muriel with bright laugh emptied
out the tell-tale lunch she had brought
from home, her beautiful eyes suffused
as she spoke softly of "deceiving poor
mother!" There was the lovely flush
Of excitement and joy in her cheeks as
they neared her home.
Miss Hope" said Sidney, "you have
given me the most delightful day OF
my life. You live here!" he exclaimed
abruptly.
"Why. yes" responded Muriel, won.
dering at his startled manner.
Sidney Harper smiled strangely.
"yo own the house," he said, land
Key II is the lot l told you about
-.er coincidence. Is 1t not?"
Their eyes met and their souls
thrilled. and In the mutual glance was
the serene promise Of q closer friend
ship.
(copyright. 1913. BY ". q. Chapman.)