Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-01-30
The Blouse Jacket
a Popular Garment

1t isn't blouse and it isn't a jacket
of both these garments. to the ultimate
glory of it's owner.
Sometimes it is entirely separate, to be
slipped on over a simple dress, and in
other cases it is incorporated in the gen
eral scheme of the dress. One fact is I'M
deniable-the jacket blouse has found in
slant favor.
In one charming model with long sleeves
the French designer has given lovely
expression of the eton idea. Changeable
blue-and-green velvet is used. There is
an extended line at the shoulder to which
is attached the lower part of the sleeve.
Rounded edges are defined by cordings
of silk. and deep ruff1e of mechlin lace
gives the directoire finish to the sleeves.
The front edges are cut in points that eX-
tend below the waist line Three cord
ings form the narrow belt, ending in
round disks at each side. a frill of lace
tops the collar line.
The back of the jacket blouse must not
be neglected. 1t is of many forms, the
panel or peplum being favored. 1t is
shown in the round form a stunning
green taffeta jacket. A military sugges-
ton is given by buttons and cOrdings
This position back is frequently trimmed
with flaps showing contrasting cOlOrs; or
materials and buttons in straight lines.
a cuirasS jacket takes you back to the
wars of other days. but the effect is
stunning on a modern dress. Green taft
feta is cut without sleeves. and has a
modified collar line. Two slashes in front
are filled in with straps
A jacket blouse with a peplum cut in
empire style is a contributing factor to
the beauty of the gray charmeuse gown
with an unusual pleated putting The
revers of the jacket are outlined with
knife pleatings. and the deep cuffs rejoice
in the same ornamentatlon. y high waist
line is shown. defined by silk cOrding,
and the whole is fastened under rOSette
of silk. Just touch of lace is given to
the under guimpe of chiffon that shows "a
the front.
Bands of putting are used to outline the
armholes and lower edge of another little
jacket blouse that repeats the color notes
of the Persian trimming on the gown.
There are shallow turned-bac revers, and
the front fastening is made under buttons
and silk cordings. This model requires so
little material that the silk remnant too
small for ordinary directore can now be
used
On directoire lines is built black tat
feta jacket blouse used to trim black
and-white silk dress No sleeves are
used The fronts are curved down quite
like a waistcoat. and two large buttons
fasten them. y decidedly cutaway line
is noticeable in the lower part, sweeping
back to square tails that cross the back.
Large armholes are defined by puffed
bands.
The jacket blouse is giving the jaunty
coat effect to dresses. Designers have
recognized it as an important cOntribut-
ing factor of the result. and when the
comparatively small cost of this favorite
is considered with the possibilities of
using remnants, there is no difficulty in
understanding why this feature is
corded the sanction of the best modistes
and the favor of the best-dreSSed women
on both sides of the water.
Some of the most striking novelty cot
tons are closely patterned in East Indian