Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1913-06-10
Harper's Bazaar Summer Styles.

The straight line across the shoulders;
the rolling, open collar; the fiat neck
finish; the soft girdle; the low-cut neck
even for street wear-these are the "a
lient features of the early summer
gowns.
On the linen and cotton gowns, as on
the tailored woolens, buttons are still
marked feature of the trimming, though
it is already rumored that they have
passed the height of their smartness in
acquiring such marked popularity.
Serge and whipcord, cotton poplin
and ratine are the materials used for the
heavier gowns, and all sorts of exquisite
sheer muslins, snowflake voiles, chifons
and marquisettes for afternoon and
evening.
Touches of brilliant color, both in
sashes and embroideries, are one OF the
most important notes. OF course the
sash is now an essential part-and q
most important psrt-of many gowns.
Even on the coats it 10 shown. On the
Russian blouses and the one piece dress,
il goes around the waist and loops either
at the back or at the side of the front.
With coatss 1t sometimes comes from
under the back panel and crosses the
sides and front, knotting where the
blouse closes at the left.
For these sashes bright plaided and
striped ribbon and silk are used. Soft
silks are most suitable, as they mold
themselves more closely to the figure.
The broad, fat, low hung sash with the
shapeless figure, which is already seen
on the streets and in tho shops, much
resembles the "moyen. age" costume OF q
few years ago. 1t has little to recon-
mend IL, except the doubtful merit OF
looseness. 1t can be worn without cor
sets, and consequently imparts to the
figure of the woman who wears it the
appearance of carelessness, lack of
dignity. For slight young girls 1t Is
possibility, but not for women Of mature
figure.
Turn down collars Of embroidery on
soft crash, linen, heavy lace bound with
| linen, or collars of colored embroidery
| high in the back and terminating at the
throat line are pretty finishes. The thin
laces are reserved for more elaborate
gowns.
A new cloth which has just been intro.
duced from Paris Ii gabardine; 1t hst
the twill of fine serge, but Is extremely
soft and delightful for street gowns and
suits.
The newest yokes are made Of fine soft
net drawn from high line In the back
with a surplice Y. Lace is not nearly
as popular this season as net, and tina,
net can be more economically renewed
is one Of its advantages.
Brussels net blouses are very popular
and exceedingly practical.
All sorts OF crepes and crepe de Chine
are much used, too. The Transparent,
blouses of net and shadow lace must be
worn over Q pretty slip or lining, bu,
for convenience of laundering and clean.
ing 1t is best to have them detached
when that is possible. Ecru is very
fashionable for these net blouses, and
for trimming yellow Is much favored
In fact, yellow 10 most popular color,
from pale shades to deep ones, runninG
into browns.
The novelties of finish in blouses are
without end. A few coarse, effective
bits of embroidery, either applied OF
worked into the linen or crepe, are the
decorations most seen.
The models from Paris show the Louis
XIV. tendency very plainly in the coats,
with haring skirts and fitted backs
They are very jaunty and much cot
away. The nosegays and garlands Of
that time show In the silks and laces,
and one smart house is supplying q tiny
corsage bouquet OF satin flowers to
match each gown.
The skirts are so scant that nearly all
OF them must be slashed at tho foot.
Belts are much wider, and many full
girdles are seen. The under blouses are
made much tighter than the transparent
outer ones, and many show wide bands
Of contrasting satin or silk. EmbrOid-
cred batise is used wherever 1t can be-,
even on some very elaborate afternoon
costumes.
Many black gowns are seen, but few
black and white combinations.