Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1913-10-01

did she carry her prediction for
pleats that the jacket OF one suit was
box pleated to match the skirt
More About the Sketch.
AS general rule, the majority of
skirts are drsped. rather than plated.
and the drapery is almost as valuable
In position as the plaits. On the
more dressy tailored skirts the front
drapery is in evidence, but on the
skirt Tor hard wear, a slight draping
OF the front into the side seam, or
modest draping of the material in
the back is often used. The draping
or the skirt on the right hand figure
Is exceedingly we'll done. and in
keeping with the general style move
ment OF the autumn. The fullness in
the front is gathered into the
N-shaped yoke, and allowed to fall
to the ground in the front, giving
the desirable ''hitching-up" effect. A
similar effect is produced with a
yoke which extends several inches
deeper in the back than in front
When the yoke is extended in length
1t becomes a tunic and forms one of
the chief style features of many of
the tailored skirts. The tunic skirt
is more in evidence than ever. and.
while the tunic Is not wired, except
on dressy velvet costumes. II does
hang full on many Of the cloth
skirts and takes On a pannier drap-
ing. which is very becoming to
slender figure. IIven in tailored
skirts the tGllness is retained be-
tween the hips and the knees, and it
may be accentuated, as 1t is in the
skirt on the middle figure. where
actual pockets. to hold handkerchisrs,
vanity cases and other feminine
trivalities, are placed on either side.
The tailored Interpretation o. the
three and four-founced skirt is the
tier skirt, of an equal number of
tiers or tunics. On the several tai
lored skirts the tiers are stitched, but
on the more dressy suits one or more
of the tiers or tunics are outlined
with fur.
The jackets are as varied In cut
as the skirts. and range from the
skirt jacket, suggesting the etou, TO
the long. three-quarter Russian Coat
The former may stop short at the
waist line, in the back. as we'll as in
the front, or Il may continue in the
fora of coattails nearly TO the knees
As rule, these little coats fasten
Just once across the bust, and dis
play brightly Oolored waistcoat,
with two V-shaped tabs below the
waist line, which may. or may not, be
marked by belt.
A larger number of coats range In
length from "a to 20 inches, are cut
away In the front to a more or less
degree and slant In the back to long,
square tails. This is not a distinctly
new style. but 1t is so universally be
| coming that the more conservative
couturiers have adopted 1t as the
fundamental mode In many Of their
| garments. Still other coats take on
the boxey lines OF tho topcoat, with
the fulness restrained slightly by q
belt, which may encircle the waist
like deep glrdle or merely extend
across the back
There are other dressmakers, prom
inent and influential, who cling to the
long. loose lines OF the Russian gar
ment. This style ia particularly good
with fur trimmings, and the touch
Of fur is almost obligatory this sea
son.
New Flare.
Aside from these general styles
there Is q novel flare in many OF the
new coats--a fare that lends a ripple
to the skirt OF the coat and makes II
stand out from the figure in a man.
ner slightly suggestive of the tunic.
With the pegtop skirts, and others
| showing unusual fulness over the
hips. the flare In the coat becomes o
necessity. 1t is noticeable likewise
on many of the coats where the skirt
portion 10 attached to the upper part
at a slightly raised waist line This
marking of the waist line may be con.
stdered the connecting link between
the long and short coats. for 1t lends
the effect of a short coat to long
garment, in very much the same way
that the tunic on the skirt gives the
appearance OF long coat to suit
where the jacket stops at the walls.
| limo