The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1913-02-06


MYEW YORK.-Many a woman who
1AA is careful in summer time to
V provide herself with a dainty
silk or lingerie frock for special
occasions finds herself in winter I'M
prepared for a luncheon or card party
mathematics she attends the
function in a dressy chiffon or lace
blouse worn with her one cookbook
ing tailored suit. II is the popular
idea Of the cost of such a costume
which discourages most women.
Dressmakers talk glibly of charmeuse,
crepe meteors. marquisettes and 9th
er expensive fabrics, throwing in
reckless suggestions about costly
laces, and airily estimate the finished
costume, plus their services, at a mod
est $40 or 500. And so the woman
who must buy six frocks-two for her
self and four for the children-out of
the 500, hopelessly gives up the idea
of dainty special" gown and pro-
vides the dressy blouse which must
do luncheon and bridge duty with the
tailored skirt.
really charming frock, however
and frock of rich and distinguished
character-may be evolved at quite
modest cost in these days OF simple
models which require but four or five
yards of material-if the making
thereof can be managed without the
assistance of the aforesaid expensive
dressmaker; and the little special"
frock will be a Joy all winter long
and very likely ymay be used for a
dainty house gown the following sea
son.
The distinction OF the costume
described today is due to simple and
effective combinations OF color and to
rtch materials modishly used.
A gray gown will require five yards
OF crepe meteor, which allows for
tunic over drop skirt having
fouDce of the crepe meteor at its
foot II both skirts are built of the
crepe meteor-not really necessary at
all-two yards more Of the material
must be provided. Match the gray as
nearly as possible in thin silk muslin
or any cotton and silk mixture-for
the drop skirt White lawn or batiste
might be used, but silk and cotton ma
terial will be softer and give better
lines to the gown. Drop skirt and
tunic are cut with a two gore pattern,
the tunic being several inches wider
than the underskirt and gathered
slightly into the belt Allow this ex-
ira fullness at the center fold of the
material-about six inches to each
gore-when the tunic is cut out The
crepe meteor founce on the drop skirt
Is merely a continuation of the skirt
and should reach well up under the
tunic. Finish the fiounce and tunic
with two-inch hem, put in with hand
stitches. This hand-hemmed finish
will add to the distinction of the
gown; 1t is one of the little details for
which one pays the high class dress
maker her hundred dollar price
The tunic fastens down the left
aide and placket is cut in the drop
skirt beneath. This placket, slashed
into the two-gore pattern, must be
nap OF the material to insure suffi-
cient width in the skirt The tunic is
hemmed by hand all the way down
and hooked invisibly at the placket,
the buttons being added merely as
ornaments. The surplice front of the
bodice, slanting sharply from midway
OF the shoulder line, meets the side
fastening of the tunic, and the row of
buttons on the bodice, continued IN
the row on the tunic, makes very
graceful line, which adds height to
the figure
The bodice should have lining of
thin lawn, the crepe meteor being
draped loosely on this bodice Any
thing like a snug fit should be avoid
ed, for in the soft grace of such a
gown lies its chief distinction. The
lawn lining should fasten down the
center front, the lace vest, backed
with bit of the white satin, hooking
across 10 the left under the edge of
the crepe meteor front. The right
edge of the lace vest Is fastened un-
der the right surplice front Of crepe
meteor. Therefore in DOMINIC the
gown the lining is hooked first; the
lace vest is hooked in place under the
collar and under the left surplice
front, and the lower corner of the
right surplice front is then hooked
across and the placket of the skirt
hooked together.
The sleeves, out in two pieces, to In
sure trim fit below the elbow. are
also lined with thin lawn and the
sleeve 10 set into the large armhole
with cording OF the crepe meteor
over quite heavy cable cord All smart
frocks of this nature have corded arm
holes this season. The diagonally
placed row of buttons adds much to
the smartness of the sleeve, and the
black note of the buttons is repeated
In the sash. This sash is about seven
inches wide and is double, the soft
satin being stitched on the wrong
side and turned over with no further
stitching. The sash should be very
soft and slimpsy to give good
effect, but the satin should be rich and
soft and not too thin or fimsy in tex
ture. The fringed ends and smart
bow must be made and sewed fast to
E.