davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

frock OF extra thin serge with an apron
tunic OF dullest-red and dark blue striped
silk. Another way in which this new
fabric Is used is in a cache-nez. which
some one invented to wear this summer
in cool resorts and which was speedily
copied by the tailors. II is nothing more
or less than a wide muller OF knitted silk
to match the silk sweater to which il Is
attached.
At Deauville. at ylchy. at Dinard these
muffiers were worn around the neck and
chin, with one end thrown over the
shoulder. and later they We're adopted in
Paris for cloth suits. They are made OF
fur now. but more especially OF gay-col
ored cloth or velvet or silk. A coat or
deep smoky purple viii have a cache
nez. which is the French name for IL.
made of light blue or duh orange.
There seems no inclination to abandon
the so-called peg-top skirt which had it's
origin In the Turkish skirts made I'm
France last June. and received a fresh
impetus from the Zouave skirt intro
duced by Cabot in August. II is made I'm
many ways, but the silhouette is always
the same. large at the waist and hips
and running TO narrow dimensions at the
foot line.
This silhouette can be accomplished
with many materials. Satin, with lace
or tulle ruffles. can be used for evening
and afternoon gowns and wide plaits
with seams that are cut in and not out,
below the knees. serve for the day hours.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
That will Help
the Discriminating Shopper

dimensions or more expensive fur. cost
more. They are nicely lined with silk.
Two dollars is the price of a pair Of
tiny silver-backed brushes for the baby
boys hair. They are made in the fash
ion Of a mans military brush, but are
not more than two and a half inches long
and less than two inches wide.
A small leather case, about two by four
inches wide and long and an inch Deep
Is filled with set of small white bone
dominoes. The box is so small that 1t
can be carried conveniently in the pocket
or In handbag, and SO would be a good
companion for a railroad journey. The
case and set of dominoes cost 30 cents.
Fifty cents is also the price of q small
holder fitted with pencils. The holder is
made Of nickellike metal. There are
tubes to hold six pencils. and three are on
are on the other side of 1t, and the square
box is to hold a folding measuring stick
that measures twenty inches on one side,
fifty meters on the other. This holder is
stocked with two black pencils. sharpened
and fitted with erasers. and with four col
ored pencils 1t Is modelled on the nickel
and brass holders that cost two or three
dollars each.
Seventy-five cents Is the price of a
sugar sitter that would surely bring joy
to the heart of any child. The sitter is no
more than a porcelain or china dog, with
holes In the top OF his head, from which
sugar sits. The dog. an ovcrgrown.
sprawiing puppy from appearance. looks
at the beholder with a ridiculous grin on
his china features that brings a smile
even to a grown-up.
:. A beautiful desk stand, with a black
ebony case costs $15. The base Is about
twelve inches long and five or six wide.
At one end of 1t there IL q silver ink well.
Along the back Is a nickel contrivance to
hold pencils, pens, erasers, paper knives
and letter openers. 1t would be an ac-
ceptable gift to any man who haunts q
desk.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
Acceptable Gifts That
Cost Only a Few Cents

A LII sorts Of little novelties may be
~ made from the contents of a scrap
bag possessed by the average worn-
an Pieces of linen. silk, ribbon, lace,
beadwork, silk braid. fringe. etc. will
work up into any number of dainty gifts,
such as collars, sachet bags and other
bags. pincushion covers. doilies, center
pieces handkerchief folders, covers for
coat hangers and many other things.
Wall paper can be used to cover card
board, inside and out. and tied together
with tape or ribbons will make scrap
baskets, wall pockets and similar aru-
Giles.
A shirt waist box doing duty also as
window seat makes useful gift for a young
girl or woman friend. A soap box from
the grocer two brass hinges, one yard
of blue or pink cambria to line 1t and
yard and a half of cretonne in violets.
roses or chrysanthemums for the out
side, according to the color scheme OF
the recipients room, and for cost OF
about 20 cents, makes a gift of beauty.
A layer of cotton under the cretonne on
the lid makes a comfortable seat.
*x
Four large Powered handkerchiefs or
those with fancy colored borders will
make a good foundation for a dainty XII
mono or hair-combing protector Sew
them together In a large square, leaving
one seam open for the front and four
inches open at each seam to make four
points for pretty and becoming neck
finish.
Tea box mating, found at any grocery
store, has many possibilities. Waste pa
per baskets, fire screens and lamp shades
may be made from ii. An artistic effect
may be produced by taking a wire lamp
shade and cutting mating in shape to
fit it and a box Of fancy beads to make
a fringe. Put touches Of gold or copper
paint here and there with stiff brush.
or paste on gay-oolored poppies cut
from wall paper, and arrange in artistic
effect, and one will have an attractive
gift
A piece OF sheepskin or soft leather
will make scissors cases, bill folds, ana
razor or needle coverings. Sew these on
the machine with red silk and scallop the
edges Scraps Of satin and flannel VIII
do for the Innings Small pieces OF the
skin Will make penwipers cut In the
shape OF maple leaves. Tie any OF these
articles In white tissue paper with req
and green string or narrow ribbon and at.
tach your card with sprig OF holly ana
a Christmas greeting.
There is hardly housewife VINO would
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

yet many women for many reasons will
not wear 1t on the street in connection
with q rough coat suit And they are
right
All the modern shirt waists have wide
turnover collars that expose most of the
neck and a woman must either adopt
these with net guimpe or pull them
outside the coat collar, leaving the neck
and chest exposed.
Not all coat suits look well in coniunc-
| ton with white net guimpe For this
reason it is the best form Of dressing
to wear a high collar of muslin attached
to the shirt waist or black satin stock
with white muslin turnover at the top.
There has come about a strong inclina-
! ton for mannish variety of heavy white
silk shirt waist with a stitched yoke.
long sleeves with turnover cuffs and
collar to match, under which is run a
| colored cravat. 1t is the form Of shirt
waist worn for sports in the open. and
as many women have an athletic appear
ance they are glad to find an arrange
ment for the neck that is not only be-
coming. but suitable for a coat suit Sc
verely made.
Even the futurist school Of Crossing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
The Vogue i'm N@ckwear

style of guimpe is made Of lace with a
scalloped edge turned toward the front.
forming V-shape front with medici
effect In the collar at the back, the lace
being lightly worked with gold over the
pattern and edge that forms the sides.
A pretty guimpe Of net has a blouse
effect with clusters Of tucks from the
shoulders. and a frill around the neck
where 1t turns over and down the front
edges, where they meet softly with a
wide collar of lace under the turnover
frill. 1t has long sleeves with wrist
frill.
Other net designs have band Of crys-
tai beading on net as trimming around
the neck and down the fronts, leaving
a wide graduated frill of net on the out
side and narrower one on the inside
with the band between, leaving small
open square above a gathered front
piece low and with a frill top.
A silk fold is being used to outline
collar points on lace and net and black
MORE bows are being worn on fichus
and guimpes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
THE CREOLE RULES
FOR MAKING SOUP

|HERE are some rules that the old
= Creole cooks give for soup making :
and II you have ever been In Louisiana
you know that their soup Is worth emu
lating:
To get the most goodness out OF soup
bone, It should be fractured every inch or
its length. The soup should never stop
cooking from the time II is put on the
stove until It is done. although IT should
at no time boil furiously.
Once the soup Is started cooking. no
water should be added. as this spoils the
flavor.
The soup bone should be put into cold
water and no salt should be added till
the soup is done. as the salt stops the
flow of the Juices.
The soup should cook from five to seven
hours at least.
All spices used in the soup should be
put in whole-that is, whole black and
white peppers. cloves, bay leaves, cloves
Of garlic, etc.
One quart of water should be allowed
for every pound of meat and bone, TO
begin with. This is a rule of the Creoles.
but they make rich soup. IL weaker soup
Is to be made, or if vegetables as well
as meat are used in the stock, the
amount of water can be increased.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

and although they may appear kaleido-
scopic, still you may be able to see them
as they really appear simply because
they have few characteristics Of broken
bits Of colored glass in mass.
To begin with, there is the figure. 1t
is all that 1t promised to be in the be-
ginning OF the summer. There are as few
curves as possible. and yet there is not
enough solidity or pressure upon the fig
ure for a sharply drawn outline. You
SLOUGH and bag and pouch and slop over
and act as though you didn't care, and
as though you had never heard of physi-
cal culture. And yet, against all the EVIL
dences Of the corsetless figure which Is
obtained by rubber and elastic corsets,
there is an undercurrent running strong
the figure.
But we speak Of the present not Of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

to such time as fashions wane. It is a
dull period from Christmas day until the
first of February, and if we do not have
news in those weeks at least we have
much to say on the kind Of clothes
women should wear instead Of those they
do wear.
Each hour now brings out q new bit Of
gossip anent clothes, and each week sees
the verifcation of a rumor, or the star
ting assurance that we are soon to have
something quite different from what has
gone before. So let US look at the sub
ject quickly, as one who is dealing in
facts and not theories.
will give you snap shots Of all the new
things that are being seen in the theaters
and in the shops and in the restaurants
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

quickly died down. It left behind 1t a
desire on the part Of many dressmakers
to employ colored Innings in order to give
brilliancy to dark gowns. Therefore, one
sees today deep purple frocks lined with
orange satin. and marine blue frocks
with purple Innings, and white satin
house gowns with Japanese red Innings.
The fashion is an attractive one under
the present rule OF turning up the hens
of skirts and coats. rolling back the
sleeves and slashing the skirt, and max
ing it shorter in the front than in the
back. This is especially helpful to the
woman who does not look well in a mo-
notonous procession of somber colors.
Every woman is not familiar with this
clever handling of hens which gives a
broken line to a straight surface. It was
brought out first on walking skirts. then
1t reached over TO evening gowns, and
now Poiret has introduced It on coats.
II one does not wish to expose a bril-
liant lining in this upturned hem one
can substitute q lining OF dull stripes,
and. by the way, these revolution silks
are gaining power every day. They are
not only used for Innings. but for tunics,
for the neck and wrist, and for girdles.
Premet has brought out a one-piece
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
Dry Cleaning Hint.

ITO clean plumes, wells, chiffons, tulle
or gauZe, as well as satin ribbons
or flowers of delicate shades, Fuller's
earth is one Of the cheapest and most ef-
fective. Put the articles to be cleaned
in a box. sprinkle some fullers earth
freely on top of each piece, and then
cover with another layer. Replace the
lid on the box and let stand for twenty
four hours. Then take each piece out
and shake thoroughly and put In the air.
in the shade. The same earth should not
be used a second time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

"HERE are many delightful new
handbags in the shops. Several Of
them are fitted with purses at
tached to their Innings with little straps
or chains. This is a sensible device, for
the small purse for change is hard to
keep track of in handbag and is often
lost One such bag, made of black leath-
er. costs S..
An edict seems to have come from some
where that only white ribbon Is now per-
misSible in underwear. Doubtless colored
ribbons will return to favor in few
weeks. But in the meantime the virtues
OF white ribbons might be considered. All
colored ribbons fade in washing. White,
to be sure, gradually yellows. but IL does
not fade. sensible substitute for rib
bon is the lingerie braid or tape, which
is sold in fve-yard pieces for cents
This braid washes well and, of course.
does not turn yellow as ribbon does. 1t
Is also sold in good shades of pink and
blue.
Every careful housekeeper knows that
an appreciable amount of the contents
OF jam pot or marmalade jar lis lost
in the course of the various transfers
from the pot to the serving dish and back
again. II you have pots OF jam and mar
malade on your stOreroom shelves in
dulge in one of the silver or china hold
ers for these pots
If you have yet to buy your supply Of
these sweets buy the sort that come
packed in jars that are suitable to put
on the table. Grapefruit marmalade of a
good quality is sold in jars with bullying
sides that are tempting in appearance
and that have nice little glass covers.
These sell for 81 dozen.
This is day when various accessories
are sold in the shops to help the clever
woman to renovate her own clothes.
Waistcoats. guimpes. sleeves. tunics of
tulle and lace and elaborate girdles are
all sold IN so many fashions to har-
monize with any suit or frock.
The latest addition to this list of ready
to-wear accessories is fur collar and cuff
sets for coats or frocks One, of gray
fur. with a small turnover collar with
square corners. and two cuffs about four
inches wide. costs so. Others. Of larger
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
Elaborate Brassieres.

OWING to the extreme transparency OF
~ afternoon dresses and the very low
cut Of evening bodices, brassieres must
be Of finer fabrics than ever. These new
garments slip over the shoulders with
ribbons about three-eighths of an inch
wide, and are cut to deep point at the
back, SO that they may not be visible
with decollete waist. This brassiere is
darted and gored under the arms and
across the front to incase the body and
mold the bust. It is made in flesh color,
so that 1t may be worn under the thinnest
blouse without a corset cover This
dresses the figure SO that there is no
visible break in the contour.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
.HE neckwear OF the present includes

VIE neckwear OF the present includes
sets of collars and cuffs, collars.
jabots. fichus. guimpes with and
without sleeves. coat collars. vests. neck
bows, fluffy collars and fchus combined,
and ruchings Of all Sorts
Fur trimming is used on the daintiest
net and lace pieces of neckwear that can
be imagined. with only one stipulation
that Is, 1t must be narrow.
Guimpes are made sleeveless with or
without a collar. Many are in fchu
style In front, finished on the inner edge
with hand-embroidery, lace insertion, fur
edging. a piece of gilt thread insertion
and other effects. In different effects
several may be bought for one suit, but
while 1t gives the opportunity Of having
several changes with one suit, it prevents
any removal of the coat, as no waist
Is worn. except the guinpe. A pleasing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

I not be pleased with a set OF iron holders
and pot lifters. Make the former out of
the crowns OF old felt hats. with an inter
inning of several thicknesses OF paper
Make the lifters Of outing flannel covered
| with denim, ticking or linen Seven by
Twelve inches is a good length. Sew a
brass ring securely on one corner to
hang them up by. glass OF jelly. a
, plate OF homemade cakes or a good
Christmas pie would be appreciated from
a housewife. bag of nuts tied with red
string and a bunch of holly stuck through
it would be Christmassy and welcome.
Christmas is for children first. last. and
always. and the little inexpensive gifts
made at home are even more appreciated
than something more costly. At any rate
child is not counting the cost OF an
article.
A twenty-ffve-cent piece OF chamois skin
VIII make seven dolls twelve inches tall
The heads may be made OF old white kid
gloves cut circular and gathered into a
ball stuffed with cotton. Paint the faces
and sew black beads for the eyes.
Collections of silk and satin scraps FOR
ooily'S wardrobe of a size 10 make a bon
net, mum or an apron, with larger
pieces of dimity. organdy- or gingham.
neatly arranged and placed in dainty
little bag, with the addition OF a tiny
Red flannel and blue cloth braided in
with wide white tape with three sleigh
bells attached win make a jolly pair OF
reins for small boy.
A small piece Of outing flannel will make
pretty baby sacques Bind the edges with
pale blue or pink ribbon. and ornament
with Misunderstanding, or pink the edges
and lay a contrasting pinked strip be-
meath 1t, and herringbone on. A pair OF
baby mittens may be made from a scrap
of eiderdown flannel. sewing the seams as
narrow as possible and crocheting the
edges with a colored wool. with small
bows of ribbon on the wrists. Bootees
may also be made from the same ma
terial.
Notes and cards make dainty remem-
brances. Buy some handsome note paper.
and engage an artist friend to paint in
water colors a spray of holly or flowers
at the top and bottom. The decoration
will cost a dollar or two. but it will do
for many persons, making the individual
letter cost little.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

we'll dressed unless they represent a
phase Of the fleeing fashion.
When the Japanese collar made its APP
pearance it was quickly adopted because
the variety of women who wanted their
gowns cut high in the back was astonish-
ingly large. And ii represented some
thing that had not been done before, or
rather in the near past. At the present
moment it is in fashion as much as ever,
and its rivals are the high rolling collar
that runs to deep point in front and
the ultra Japanese collar that stands
away from the neck about half way be-
tween 1t and the arm.
This is exceedingly new and 80 far 1t
has few followers. Doucet uses 1t in an
exaggerated manner because he outlines
it with a reed which holds it up and out
like a little hoop skirt waving to and
fro over the shoulders.
Ruches have not gone out Of fashion
They are worn in many forms and serve
to soften many hard lines. 1t Is prob
able that they will be desired as long as
the open neck is worn at every hour in
preference to the high one. The fchu
effect Of folded net or lace or tulle Is
one of the best neck arrangements in
existence. 1t covers many structural de-
fects and is an aid to any gown
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

the ancient Greeks, and, fastening the
upper points of your bodice over the
shoulder with small jewel, leave the
arm guiltless Of covering.
There are sleeves put into regulation
armholes. there are pear-shaped sleeves
that begin at the neck at q point and
there are wing sleeves Of tulle that are
held down by jeweled tassels One of
the good-lOoking sleeves is of chiffon from
armhole to elbow, say in dark blue, and
in velvet from elbow to wrist, say in
deep red. Both parts of this sleeve are
wrinkled.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

There is another arm covering that re-
sembles the huge sleeve worn by the
Russian priests, and 1t Is possible that
the idea was suggested by the priests
garments. The wing sleeves on evening
gowns are q year old, and this is against
them In the minds Of those women who
search for something new every month,
and who do not believe that they are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

Never use a ball-and-socket fastener
at the neck. or at any other point where
there is q strain on the opening. A hook
and eye is much better, because it holds
securely.
II you are making q silk or crepe de
chine or chiffon waist, you can gain
time and style by buying little net or
lace vest or guimpe ready made. Many
patterna suitable for such waists show
the fronts opening widely over q guimpe,
and one ready made can be substituted
for the one in the pattern.
Little undersleeves can also De pougnt
to fasten in silk or chiffon waists. Net
chiffon and tulle shirred suitably Tor
sleeves can also be bought by the yard
This net sleeve material simplifieS the
task of waist making. for next to the
neck the sleeves come In Importance.
couple of yards OF silk can be quick.
ly converted into waist with short
sleeves and body In one, banded about
the neck and sleeves with marabou. and
can be made from net
by the yard, and little vest can be
bought ready to slip into place.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30
Save Turkey Wings.

THE wings Of q turkey or goose may
be used as a stove buster. Cover
the meats portion with salt, and press
the rip under an iron for several days.
A wing 10 also excellent for brushing
pictures aud other articles.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

Suits may be elaborate or severe. as
requirement dictates. The elaborate ones
complex i'm line, while the more simple
ones depend on richness Of material.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

The neck arrangement OF evening
gowns is less puzzling than any other
because 1t IS either square or V-shaped,
and, beyond folds or tulle. there is little
to guess about Probably the neck ar
rangement for the morning hours in the
street is more puzzling than ever. for the
open neck Is universally fashionable and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

by a silken cord, and you have cos
tune that would reflect the most demure
type of woman and at the same time
be in the very forefront of fashion.
X
The consensus of opinion is that if
woman studies the relation of clothes to
her own temperament ever so little and
tries to reflect her character and atti-
tude of mind in her apparel, she will be
successfully dressed And this is the
new cult in clothes. and this is why
If you wish to get at the secret of things
this is why there are so many fash
ions abroad In the land
On second thought, 1t may be better to
save any phlosophic comments on dress
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

THE ILLUSTRATION SHOWS TWO
EVENING GOWNS THAT -EMBODY
MANY OF THE NEW FASHIONS-THE
SKIRT THAT Is FULL THROUGH
THE HIPS AND NARROW AT THE
ANKLES, THE TRANSPARENT BOD
ICE, THE RUFFLED TUNES, THE
SQUARE AND POINTED NECK AND
THE WIDE GIRDLE THE GOWN ON
THE SEATED FIGURE IS MADE OF
PURPLE SATIN, THE BODICE IS
MADE OF YELLOW TULLE, WITH
PEARL EMBROIDERY, AND A CIR
DIE AND TUNIC OF VELVET STAMP
ED CHIFFON IN PURPLE AND YELL
LOW. THE GOWN ON THE STAND
ING FIGURE IS ALL WHITE-A COM
BINATION OF SATIN, LACE AND
TULLE. THE GIRDLE, DRAPED UP
AT THE FRONT, is MADE OF CHER
RY-RED MESSALINE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

The sleeves of the strictly tailored suits
show little or no fullness at the arm
holes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-11-30

Fashionable for evening wear is the
sixteen button-length kid glove in white,
trimmed across the back Of the hand
with three rows of black stitching.
A caprice of fashion is the draping or
the long fur stole in such a way as to
leave one shoulder uncovered, which, as
a rule, is draped by a transparency,
permitting the flesh tints to creep
through.