The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1913-01-23

With a paper pattern as a guide
cut the collar from cheap lawn or
some other cotton material. Turn
under hem at each side and at the
backs and try on the color. If it
is not big enough add two pieces at
the back If it is too tight around
the top and too loose around the bot
tom, take a little tuck, tapering
from top to bottom, about three
inches from the back on each side.
If it is too loose at the top and too
tight at the bottom take two tucks
tapering from bottom to top.
When the cotton collar fits per-
fectly, as it can be made to tit even
by one who has never before made a
collar if time and care be taken, cut
the corrected pattern from piece OF
stiff brown paper. The collar should
lap at the back about half an inch,
although in the case of lingerie col
lars, which may shrink with their
first washing, it is quite permissible
to lap them a full inch to begin
with.
Double this corrected pattern and
place the fold on a lengthwise fold
of the material from which the collar
is to be made. Cut it, allowing for
seams at top and bottom and back.
The backs should be finished with
hens a quarter of an inch wide. The
top should be finished with a mar
rover hem. The bottom can be
hemmed and then felled to the neck
of the guimpe, which has been fin
ished with q bias banding; or the
bottom of the collar can be trimmed
carefully, rolled and whipped closely
to a piece of fine embroidered seam
beading. This lawn or batiste on
which this beading is embroidered
should be trimmed closely and neatly
from the side whipped to the collar.
The other side Of the beading should
be fastened to the neck of the
guimpe in a French seam.
If the collar is made of tucked
material, the tucks should run
around the neck, as upright tucks
bulge and make the neck look thick
and awkward.
If the collar is to be made Of lace
insertion the insertion should be
basted carefully to position on the
paper pattern. The draw thread in
one side of each length of insertion
should be carefully pulled to make
the lace curve so that it lies fiat and
evenly on the pattern. After the in
sartion is basted in place it should
be overhanded strongly and neatly
together. Fine beading may be used
to fasten a lace insertion collar to
the guimpe. Lace edging, if it is
used to finish the top Of the collar,
should be slightly gathered with it's
own drawstring and then Overhanded
to the top of the collar.
When the collar is finished, cut
out the guimpe, haste the shoulder
and other seams and try it on. Lap
it in the back the same distance the
collar is Tapped. If there is to be a
bit of dickie or yoke which will show
at the threat of the dress under
which the guimpe is worn the under
arm hastings should be ripped out,
the shoulder seams and other seams
pressed and the guimpe spread out
fiat. The yoke or dickie can then be
applied in it's proper place, which
should be marked off with a pencil
when the guimpe is tried on. After
the yoke is in place the underarm
seams should be stitched.
The guimpe, if it is scanned and
fitted, should be fastened at the back
with hooks and eyes. If it is not
closely fitted-if, for instance, it is
made of net or chiffon-it can be
gathered about the waist with a
drawstring run in a casing of silk
seam binding and fastened at the