Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1913-06-12

the midwinter frocks for formal
81 afternoon wear. Ii must be so,
" since women nowadays require go
many OF these charming, luxurious af-
ternoon costumes that were they all
built along the same lines and in con
formity with the same style ideas, the
result would be as depressingly uni
form US the costumes Of the women
in provincial town where one or
two dressmakers make all the clothes
that are worn by stereotyped patterns
selected from the club magazines.
With the cessation Of evening gale
ties afternoon affairs take special
prominence and the busy society
woman in Lent requires no end of
smart and pretty afternoon toilettes
to suffice her through the round Of
bridge and auction parties, readings.
musicales, charitable entertainments
and the like which I'll up the time be-
tween Ash "Wednesday and Easter. It
is fashionable to improve both ones
mind and the condition of the poor
during Lent and the means for accom-
plishing both Of these laudable pur-
poses require attractive gowning. At
a recent authors matinee, held at the
Waldorf In behalf Of very worthy
charity, some very beautiful afternoon
costumes were noted, one OF which
fresh from Paris, 1 must describe to
you. The name of the Couturier re
sponsible for this creation was not
learned, but tho gown and the hat
worn with 1t bespoke Paris in every
subtle line. The costume included a
skirt, bodice and graceful little wrap,
the latter rs loose as kimono room
sacque and falling only n few inches
below the waistline and having ex-
ceedingly novel sleeves. They ended
at the elbow and were finished like
the neck and front of the coat with
broad frills Of machine embroidery
in one OF the new Paraguay lace pat
terms. This embroidery note on an
afternoon costume was distinctly
Partisan, for machine embroideries
are now being used on everything
even ball-gowns.
But the sleeves of the little coat
were not elbow sleeves--not at all
and hero Is tho novel notion; armlets
or tight undersleeves reached from
under the embroidery frills at the ell
bow clear to the wrist, covering the
long, shirred sleeves of the bodice be-
meath. The wrap, like the bodice and
skirt, was built Of a new silk faille
so lustrous that It is called in Paris
onduline satin. but the armlets IN the
coat sleeves were Of plain black satin
and were very conspicuous as the ma
terial OF the costume was a rich, dark
blue in color.
A Kerchief- Fichu OF Panne Velvet,
within the surpllce- draped bodice
of dark blue onduline satin was a
softly draped hchu of white panne
velvet, this in turn crossing over an
inner kerchief or hchu Of white tulle.
The materials were so soft and so
cleverly managed that the effect was
not at all bunglesome, as a velvet
draped kerchief about the neck and
over the bust might easily be II not
adjusted by q master hand. These
draped kerchiefs OF soft stuff within
the opening of a dark bodice are a
new Paris note and the effect is very
chic-and very feminine and dcmure.
AS for the skirt OF the blue onduline
costume, 1t was drapcd--as all skirts
of this sort are now; and it was
slashed-as all Paris skirts are now,
also. From the slash peeped now and
then a boot of patent leather with a
gray suede buttoned top. The hat
must not be forgotten. 1t was of dark
blue hemp straw-though midwinter
winds were blowing out Of doors
and was trimmed In the oldest way
with flowers made Of cork and two
smart black quilts that shot backward.
Paris is making hat flowers of every
thing now-even Of feathers; but
cork seems rather a weird substance
to incorporate into floral trimmings,
These cork roses, however, were
rather pleasing in shape and color
md were OF course exceedingly chic,
which was all that mattered.
At the same reading was worn a
most enhancing gown Of black chan
tily lace draped over dull gold satin,
the lace while without being tightly
drawn. managing to sheath the figure
in long, graceful lines over the gold
colored fo&ndation gown. This gol-