New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-11-02

1t will not be until the bugle has been
blown on the opening day of the horse
show in the Madison Square Garden that
the social season in town will really have
begun This year the managers are
straining every nerve to make the show
as important a function socially as are
the late autumn meets at Longchamps.
Naturally. if society can be induced TO
patronize the show literally the clothes
interest 10 the New Yorker will be quite
as great as the sartorial interest of the
Paris racecourses. To the latter events
the great couturiers send their best mod
els. the authentic afterthoughts which
have been designed for the Parisiennes,
not the American buyers. and the Amerl-
can dresmakers are busy now creating
and copying the smartest Of the late
models for their discerning American Gil
entele-women who do not order their
costumes until the wheat has been sep
arated from the chaff.
FUR AND CLOTH SUITS.
The costume that is sure to prove
sensation, Just as its prototype did at
Longchamps, is the fur or fur cloth SUIT
Thus far very few of these good-looKlng
costumes have been noted, partly because
the weather has not been propitious Tor
furs. and partly because the women VINO
can afford these luxuries are holding them
in reserve. They are too handsome for
the horsy events in the country, and IN
fact, for any OF the semi-social events
which take place before the formal open
ing Of the season and they are there
fore out Of the question for the wei
dressed woman who is guided by one OF
the cardinal principles in the art OF gown
ing-that is, the right gown at the rlght
time. The horse show, however VIII
offer an excellent opportunity for dis
playing such costume.
DARK FUR USED.
The majority Of these costumes WIN
Undoubtedly be developed in the oark
furs, principally broadtail or the irnita-
ton broadtan clot1, which Is so very
clever that only close inspection re-
yeals the truth. Moleskin is quite suppie
enough 10 be used for this purpose ana
lew Of the more exclusive couturlers arc
showing entire costumes OF II, often IN
curious dyed shades In fact, one Oh the
most admired costumes at recent OPEN
Ing was Of moleskin dyed peculiar
mauye tone. In Paris the white iur
cloth costume is the last word. and the
a-white effect is continued by a more
poke bonnet II is doubtful whether In
mis country the white fur costume WIZ
ever be considered quite as elegant az
me black, for when the American woman
wishes to appear very chic she inVariapiy
eheoses black costume.
There are many ways Of fashioning the
iur costume, but as general rule "lue
osnd or founce Of the fur forms the lower
part OF the skirt. There is logical rea-
son for this, as it is the heavier ana
seemingly the stronger part OF the cos
June and able, therefore, 10 resist better
'ne wear and tear. There Is no ruie'
however, regulating the depth OF TINS
oano. In some skirts II reaches ABOVE
we kpees so that the coat hangs over IT,
SWING the effect, when the coat IL Worn'
an entire fur suit; on others II Stops
e'efal inches below the knees, and the
Dnie Of satin or chiffon just meets II.
and Of thu fur is sufficient stiffening for
use tunic, though on one OF the recently
imported skirts triangular insets OF the
W were placed at regular Intervals
"0uho the bottom OF the tunic.
coRsAeE AFFORDS CONTRAST.
Bands Of fur may simulate the surplice
aplhs on the bodice or outline the peck
'a sleeves. but quite as often the fur Is
.'ueo entirely on the corsage, as II to
,sn'uste the contrast between the
,Npsrent corsage-for any other bodice
not TO be thought OF this winter-and