Gilpin observer., 1913-11-20
1zaRAzaYAz MQu7 zW Noe.

Gradually, as the free air and broadminded
ness of this cline began to eaven the witch
burning dogmas of the Pilgrims, the fasting Of
the day was tempered by moderate feasting.
People ceased partaking in solemn silence of
meal Just about the same that served Sun
day-on which day of the week all early Thanks
giving used to be observed-and had a few
friends or relations in to help give proper thanks
This necessitated more elaborate preparations
and what the college-bred young man of the
household today would term "a bigger feed"
1t would not be correct to dine in everyday
clothes when guests present, SO elaborate
costumng came into vogue for the occasion.
Many guests came from a long distance-madens
sitting demurely behind men riders horse
back, or else in clumsy old road-coaches 1t
not hospitable to suggest that these return the
same day. So started the country house party
which still iourishes wherever there is hos
tess, house in the country and a fireplace.
For weeks beforehand preparations for the
great day went Especially at a place like
Mount Vernon did Thanksgiving almost outweigh
Christmas in culinary importance-which
1t should be since the host of Mount Vernon
signed the first official proclamation making
Thanksgiving holiday. And always the turkey
has been its emblem-just the eagle is of
freedom. Like the Indian it is typically Ameri-
or course with such tempting menus as turkey
roast pig home-cured hams and mince and
pumpkin pies-to say nothing of imported plum
Notwithstanding rapidly took the place of absti.
changes of this vast country during the past
1913 years that menu has remained practically un-
changed Everywhere in America on this
Thanksgiving day-save in the homes of the
poor snd the muti-millionare-turkey and cram
berry sauce will have places Of Importance and
be served from the table. The high cost OF lv-
ing debars the city poor from much turkey and
the utra-rich have long since determined that
Few thin Nun-gravied slices Jf white meat sui-
cient to introduce amid the various cosmopolitan
dishes OF the meal
Back in revolutionary days no such thought
troubled the mistress OF the governors mansion
at Albany. the exclusive hostess OF Boston, or
the chatelane of Virginia estate. There was
only one proper place for the huge golden
brown. savory and beautiful turkey-and that
was the exact middle of whatever end Of the
table was designated head" No courses an.
noyed the guests and irritated eager Juveniles
The dinner services had to be extensive and
complete Dinner served at midday and
began with soup, taken from an immense
toureen placed before the hostess. She ,adled
1t out into soup plates, whose depth would
astound fasdious diner OF today. All over the
broad expanse OF white cloth were various dishes
and plates and cruets and receptacles for needed
seasonings.
Nor were these of thickness meant to en-.
dure rather than charm the eye. Gazing upon
collection OF them now at the National Museum
at Washington one marvels what magic Of house
wliery skill ever prevented their breakage.
Where is the bride of yesterday who can point
today to an intact after-dinner coffee set-much
less that sufficient for q dinner party? Yet these
are displayed In all the purity Of outline and
quaintness OF long gone period, bringing very
near to the visitor the OF genuine hospi
tality
In those revolutionary Thanksgivings there
was no time to hastily wash certain dishes and
use them over again. Everything had to be
wnere II was In evidence all the time And one