The chronicle=news., 1913-10-23

I
stiffness entirely. rhey are made Of
the soft sstines and piush-like mater
Isis. also OF the new cotton yelvets.
striped like corduroy. and. In spite OF
all this. Of the ever favOrite dark
blue serge. Any number Of Jackets
are In contrast viii, the material Of
the skirt. such as Jackets OF Scotch
plaid. with skirts In plain dark blue
or gre neserse or bIoadcloth. One
house makes specially Of two
fionnee pleatei skirt Of black and
white shepherds piaid. worn with u
jacket OF black ratine.
As to Jacket length. I, varies iron,
the waistline to the latest depth.
which Is about at the ankles. In this
latter ease the portion OF the skirt
showing below the jacket IL often en-.
tireiy of fur. II would reem reason
able that either this very long. rath-
er ample Jacket. sort Of Russian
blouse. or one which reaches the
short loose hip line. will become pop
ular. the former with tall women.
the latter with small women. provid-
ed they are not too fieshy. One
piece drcsS for afternoon wear the
excuse for new line. very long
wasted IN the back. which buttons
TO reach them In straight line
without n curve frnm the neck down.
Nearly aii bious-s shown III the
shops have Law collars. Their. are
many kind. of nav collars In the
market and all ar. large and broad
except the adapted japanese. collar
which " about two inches wide. roiis
back on the Gown. runs To the waist
In u negligent line and stands away
from the back of the neck for two
inches.
While the backs Of b6dies are hixh.
| II Is not fashionable now to run the
line up to the hair. ON coats. as well
ms ON biouses. the collar spring. away
from the neck M BoOn ~ Il passc, the
shoulder. NO matter how high u may
be-. One does not rec high collars.
however. on bi0usrs. They nrc kept
for coats. The roiIinx Jspan-,c al
fair lead. all the others. but the sal
or collar II back IN style and Is put
on the smsrtcsi kinds Of waists.
The only neck ornament, worn In
front ID 4 loose cravat. usually OF
blsck. tsfsesA. ssd many Of the ladi-
viduslisis tie this ribbon Into . ioosa
four-in hand instead Of = how. No
natter what kind Of collar IL used.
Il Il cut quite low In front. aud none
Of the women sccm to mind. After
noon bodices that are part Of II
gown have exceptionally low broad
collars Of lace. with u flat fichu ef-
feet inside. crossed surpitce-wise over
the bust and held there by u bsr-pin.
There Is u new collar that has Just
made Its appearance. called the
Henry H." II Ii small. stands up u
little. then rolls over. l. far away
from the neck at the back. and caa-
ishcs to u point at the sides OF Z dec
ollciagc which would bc square. cx-
ccpi that u broadens out over tile
bust. Il IL not popular yet. but II II
promised as the new dccolle,sgc In
afternoon gowns for the winter.
n one does not wish to expose the
neck. then u Ruimps must be worn.
for there Is no way of building ny
the blouse into high collar without
making 1t "a trifIc old fash ioncd. The
collars on coats are often high and
straight. and others have an immense
flare at the back. then turn over for
twice their depth. Most OF these are
made OF velvet or fui.
Among the fash hfonablc accessories
that Paris liz Offering In the shops
are flowers. or rather roses. made Of
cloth that resembles patent leather.
and is called oil cloth. Il is soft aud
shining and flexible enough TO twist
and turn II into wcll-shspcd bios
sons. Florence Fairbanks.
Printing Of every DESCRIPTION neat.
~ and quickly executed at The