Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-02-27
BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE.

Whenever the warm weather comes
there is the recurrent question concern
ing low or high neckwear. Fortunate are
the few who do not bother their heads
about it because they know they look
their best with the open collar and there
fore combine comfort and beauty. The
ma iority are worried over the fact that
they may not look well in anything that
is not high and fitted, and yet they dread
the ordeal of swathing the neck when the
| thermometer is mounting.
If one could only leave the wrists and
the neck loose and free then one would
| be decidedly cooler: those who know the
tropics recognize the worth of this truth,
but those who live in varying climates
are always trying compromises. They
buy neckwear of every description and at
tempt to suit it to the occasion and the
| thermometer.
| This is undoubtedly the best scheme If
one has the patience and the money to
carry it out. and it is the only scheme
when one is not quite sure of ones style.
| The shopkeepers offer such a brilliant
variety of neckWear that no one need SUI
! fer by lack of originality. and the Amer
lean woman is an adept at inventing and
adjusting the most becoming kind of neck
arrangement. 1t is the field in which she
eNceIs. just as the French woman does in
hats and the English woman does in even
ing gowns.
The Rolling Collar Again.
The best part about wearing the open
collar is that one can make it high at
will by inserting a white tulle or lace
guimpe. This method is well understood
by every woman, but it cannot be added
that the method is always carried out
well. There are an amazing number of
i'll fitting gC!mpes and yokes in the world.
THE responsibility for much of this lies in
the alacrity with which the shops sell
ready-to-wear sumpes which cannot pos
sibly fl every neck. and woman thinks
it is more trouble to alter than to make
new ones. she goes wearing what
she has by pinning it into shape.
However. the well fitting guimpe of
plain white net showing above rolling
collar of any material is fashionable and
becoming. There is no doubt that the
Robespierre collar will hold it's own. 1t
shows every sign of doing so. 1t is at
tached to the blouses; it is sold separate
ly and worn at will. and it presents an
economical method of freshening a waist
which is good for one more day of serv
ice.
The Beau Brummell collar is in style.
but it does not present the comfortable
appearance of the rolling collar. although
1t is the only one possible for women
with long and ScraWny neckS VINO WISH
| to conceal them.
AS for the square Dutch neck. it is seen
10 more. This is a happy condition. for it
was rarely becoming with its hard
| straight lines back and front. The
shape has superseded all others, even on
| ball gowns, and therefore any collar
| neck arrangement that does not follow
| this line is considered old-fashioned or
| the trick of an individualst.
| The jabot is still considered a fashion
h Inn for, fhn in ms
! although Paris decries it. The side frill
| has lost it's SAVIOR and it is only used here
and there on blouses that demand some
| touch of softness down the front. AS
fashion, however, the side frlll may be
considered dead.
The first question woman then asks
| is what she shall wear below the collar,
| and the answer. is, square or oblong
pleated piece of net, muslin or chiffon
| cloth edged with lace hemstitched.
| Across the top of this goes a bar pin.
| Collars of Color.
One-piece frocks for spring and summer
| have low Robespierre collars of white
| crepe de chine which are buttoned on and
can be washed at will. The woman who
| must be economical can choose these
| of black or dark blue she can use them
| to make UP a color scheme as the dress
| makers do.
| A rolling red collar for instance. goes
| well with a navy blue frock as we'll as
| one of white serge cotton corduroy,
and the same may be said of apple green.
plum purple and black and white Scotch
plaid.
! Bv the way, the woman who is anxious
| to dress her neck according to the latest
| fashions should keep in mind that the
| brilliant Bulgarian ribbons we'll as the
| Roman and Scotch ones are admirable
and novel. Not only rolling collars are
| made of them, which include the narrow
| revers kind as well as the flowing shape
that comes to the shoulders but also
| modified cape collar that drops down well
i'm the back and crosses in front. These