Norwich bulletin., 1913-03-08
THEoDA's DREssMAKING METH
 ops.

Dear Editor and Sisters: The dress
 making contest has so many helpful features that feel reluctant to let it pass without adding my mite. | One of my greatest helps in accom- plishing much in sewin~ is in not be- ing obliged to baste all my work. The feat can be accomplished by persistent trials, first firmly and evenly creasinS all hems and perhaps pinning the work. being careful not to pull the goods; if there is little fullness on the under -side lay a tiny pleat. It saves much time and thread, and bastings not re- moved are unsightly and give a slack appearance to the garment.
 One of the ways I quickly finish seams to underwear is to stitch the seams again on the right side of the garment an eighth of an inch from the seam, having creased the seam and turned the goods on the side to be stitched. I also trim off one of the raw edges and turn the other under. edges; but stitch this on the wrong side. This saves overcasting.
 For shirtwaists, children's dresses, etc, l sew a tiny seam on the right where perforations indicate. If there is much allowance for seams they will need trimming to begin with.
 A good fitting pattern is the first es- sentfal and those with seam aIIowa nee are preferable. Be sure the pattern IS laid on the thread of the goods as indicated, as a twisted seam or sleeve is caused by the pattern not being placed accurately on the thread of the goods, and 1t cannot be remedied also he careful not to stretch a bias edge
 Where two bias edges come together a tape should also be stitched in the seam to keep it from stretching.
 In cutting plaids, cut one side first, remove the pattern. and place the pieces right sides toeether or both wrong sides. to prevent having two pieces for the same side and match the plaids both crossways and length ways, and then cut.
 The prevailing mode of waists anl skirts are so plain 1t seems but an easy matter for most anyone to try to make their house dresses.
 Having cut a plain shirtwaist by the pattern, and marking seam allowance and notches with a colored pencil, baste the garment and try it on right side out; if the neck is too large, take up the shoulder seams, and if too small, let them out If the waist is too large or too small. take it in or let it out at the under arm seams If the armho1e is too tight, snip the ma teriaI in a few places and it will spread and show how much needs to be cut away.
 Tn marking the cuff. baste the un- der lining to the wrong side, then baste the outside portion to the correspond ing one, right sides together, stitch the ends and one side and turn, neatly turning the corners; sew the under part with interlining to the sleeve right side out, turn under edge Of out side part and carefully haste down and stitch all around to give 8 neat tailor ed appearance. Always hold all gath CTS or fullness toward you.
 When finishing 6 sleeve with a band sew the band on the sleeve before you sew up the sleeve seam and sew both up at the same time, turn down and hem by hand.
 To sew the collar band on, hold the goods right side toward you and baste 10 the under side of the band, sew, and then turn under edge of right side,