The Washington herald., 1913-06-29
GLANCE AT FASHIONS I'm CAPITAL
Expert Tells OF the Welsoned Woman OF Smart Society. What
-rt. She Wears. and When F5t.5.
ny MARGARET WADE.
Expert Tells OF the

According TO the press dispatches from
New York, where the National Ladies'
Tailors' and Dressmakers' Association
opened its semi-annual convention on Fri
day afternoon. the question of the mo-
ment is not the slashing of the skirt or
the adding of material thereto, but the
length of the coat milady shall wear next
winter.
Delegates from twenty-five States are
taking part in this debate for American
fashions. Coats 20 inches long have been
decreed by the arbiters of New York.
while the Western members of this ma
tional body insist that a coat no longer
than g inches is just about right for a
fashionable walking jacket. Just what
the outcome will be no one can say. and,
as a matter of fact, no one in Washing
ton cares, for here, as everybody knows,
the coat will not be cut according TO the
cloth or the National Ladies' Tailors and
Dressmakers' Association, but cut accord
ing TO the fancy of each individual client
Women in Washington may follow their
Illinois or their New York sisters when
1t comes to n, I winters jackets with
equal peace of mind, for that is the
beauty of Washington dressing. Among
the placed women OF Warrington So
ciety. personal independence and uni
formly good taste go hand in hand.
There are extremes of fashion to be
seen on the streets OF the Capital Slashed
skirts. showing an eXpanse of silk no.
siery almost to the knee. are appearing
with much greater frequency than to the
credit of feminine Washington. They are
not however. worn by either maids or
matrons entitled to be considered as lead
ers of fashion or accredited members of
polite society.
So far as smart Washington goes. the
70 ~ he F,ttt xralI ~ he
present will be dictated from Paris. II
not actually created there. Washngton's
ladies' tailors are quite the equal of any
OF the representatives now converting in
New York. and. with few, exceptions,
are all artists closely in touch with the
models of the French capital According
TO these knights of the tapeline and
shears" skirts are TO remain narrow.
at least as regards street gowns. The
length of the jacket will be determined
by the model of the skirt. draped or
semi-draped will have its jacket consid-
erably shorter than one of the sectional
cut which boasts little fullness.
The poStilian back introduced in WASH
ington in the late spring will enjoy eX-
tended favor in the autumn, the reason
being-for there is always a reason in
fashions-that this lengthening line in
the back of a jacket goes far towards
eliminating the objections to the aver
age narrow skirt.
Mrs. Potter Palmer. Mrs. Frederick
Dent Grants handsome sister. is spon-
soring this new coat in Paris. as shown
by a recent photograph in which the
former Chicago hostess looks more than
ever like her handsome sister of Wash
ington. Mrs. Palmer is one of the not
ably well-gowned Americans at Long
champs. from which center OF fashion
the cable brings a weekly chronicle of
the smartly attired.
Mrs. NJ. S. McCallum, only daughter
Of the late Senator Sherman. and in her
own right a very popular member of
WashingtCn's resident society, is just
home from a years sojOurn abroad with
a beautifully selected wardrobe meeting
the wants OF present and future. These
smart gowns, like most Paris creations.
show their elegance more in minute de-
tails. than in any radical departure from
the best modes of the American makers
Ur importers.
particularly handsome dinner gown
made for Mrs. McCallum is a black satin
and white lace creation with the addi-
ton of new and wonderfully fine jetted
net over dress. There is also some jet |