davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30
Build a Gown After
a Logical Design.
The Etiquette of Cards and Calls By Mrs. 5! 4sFass

The proper acknowledgment OF
the invitation is TO send cards on or
after the day Of the event to those
in whose name the invitation was
issued and TO the newly-married
pair. II in doubt as TO what may
be the new address Of the bride.
cards are sent to the home of her
parents. These obvious points are
explained herein because they are
frequently a problem to the ineY-
perienced. The same rule applies
to sending cards in acknowledgment
OF marriage announcements.
On the occasion or q tea hostess
sends cards to her general list OF
friends. Thus she notifies them that
she will be at home on certain aft
ernoon. They are not obliged TO go.
If they go, they leave cards so that
the hostess may be reminded OF
their presence and may give them
credit for coming. Ii they cannot
go, cards are sent on the day Of the
tea, and duty has been fulfilled. II
is not expected that a call should
be made afterward.
If lady has a day for being at
home, her friends should try to call
at that time.
A card Is a reminder of ones call
and address, and it IS left whether
the hostess is at home or not. 1t
may be laid down on the hall table
when entering or leaving a house
or may be laid down unobtrusively
on any convenient table.
Women attend to the duties Of
card-leaving, men being considered
exempt from making calls when
they have wives or mothers to leave
their cards, but Of course young
man must call on his hostess after
dinner invitation. 1t is to be re-
GREETED that some young men are
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

not sufficiently punctilious in MAX
ing prompt acknowledgment OF
courtesies and Inequalities.
The general rule to remember Is
that married woman leaves her
husbands cards with her own when
making formal call, whether it be
the first call Of the season or a call
as an Indebtedness after an invita-
ton. She leaves one OF her cards
for each lady in a family and one
each of her husbands cards for each
lady and one for the man OF the
household. II she has a son she
may leave two Of his cards. If the
lady On whom she Is calling is al
home she places the cards of her
husband and son en- the hall table
and sends her own card by the
servant. In future calls during the
year it Is not required that she
should leave her husbands cards,
unless, as has been stated, in ac-
acknowledgement of invitations. Her
son assumes his own obligations in
future.
The old custom has been revived
OF having a card "Mr. and Mrs."
This simplifies matters generally,
as a woman leaves one of these
cards and one OF her husbands
cards when making a call.
During the first year or two of 4
girls entrance in society her name
is beneath the mothers name on a
card:
Mrs. Henry Mason.
Miss Mason.
If there are two or more grown
daughters, the custom is to have
1.-THE Misses Mason" under the
mothers name. If younger
, daughter is making her entrance to
society her name may be beneath
the others, Miss Winifred Mason"
3, by the Star Company. Great Britain
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30
II TIC EtTQUcttc OF IVtW
York To-day"

Young girls have their cards sepa.
rately after q year or two in society
and are expected to assume their
obligations about making calls, al
though daughter should accom-
pany her mother in making first
calls or ceremonious calls. a girl
who has been in society for Il few
years may relieve her mother Of
certain amount of formal card-leav-
ing.
The rule is that first calls should
be returned within n week, although
some persons claim that within
fortnight IS allowable. When you
have accepted an invitation from
new acquaintance a call must be
made within week after the enter.
tainment
The hours for calling are between
and 6 o'clock in the afternoon. A
formal call does not exceed fifteen
or twenty minutes.
Cards OF compliment or courtesy
save time and express kindly re-
membrance. For instance, card
is sent with flowers, books, bonbons,
fruit. or any OF the small gifts Of
fered among friends. In acknowl-
edging these attentions 1t Is not
proper to send a card in return. A
note should be written.
Nothing may ever be written on a
visiting card but an informal mes.
sage or invitation. 1t Is not proper
to write an acceptance or a regret
on a card.
Cards of coincidence or sympathy
are sent to friends in bereavement
with the words with deep sympa
thy" written across the top. OF
course, one should IL possible, call
and leave cards without asking to
see any one, but if this cannot be
done cards are sent by post.
Rights Reserved.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30
By PAUL POiRET,
In the Current December Num-
Der of HARPER IS Bazaar.

TASHION! That appalling word!
At least to me it is appalling
= because it stands for that
which / have rebellcd against ever
since I began designing, years ago. I
never could understand why fashion
is supposed to convey the idea of
whimsicallty and amusement. TO my
mind, it means uniformity and
tediousness. Fashion 10 me implies
lack Of taste, because a thing arbi-
trarily set up rs model for every
body to follow Is nm insult to ones
Intelligence and individuality. Ever
since 1 can remember l have hated
routine, and l have been opposed to
this artificial and absurd generaliza-
ton which has reigned in women's
clothes.
OF course there was reason for Ii
In olden times when sovereigns Of
country set the fashions and the
mechanism for weaving textiles was
imperfect. 1t was then logical that
women should follow the fashion, for
the lady in waiting copied the dress
Of her Queen, as the most delicate of
compliments. In turn, the lady in
waiting was copied, and so it spread
from one circle to another. At the
same time, the manufacturers pro-
duced materials required for such
costume. And as it took long time
to readjust loom for different de
sign or fabric, the fashion prevailed
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

@USTOM regulates the matter of
1 cards and calls. Social visit
Ing has an esta blished code,
and the rules should be understood
which regulate visiting cards and
their use.
These bits Of pasteboard are re-
CURED to do duty on many occa.
sions. For centuries they have been
the accredited representative OF
their owners. They are the means
of discharging social obligations, and
the endless interchange OF cards be-
tween friends and acquaintances
may be truly said to keep society
united. Without these useful little
bits Of pasteboard social debts
could not be paid. Cards are very
often reminders to acquaintance Of
our very existence as woll as step
toward renewing friendships or en-.
larging circle of friends.
Cards are often expressions of
kindness. sympathy, coincidence or
congratulation. In fact. there are.
few things more important than the
etiquette Of cards and calls.
Card.leaving Is necessary after
having received invitations to a
wedding breakfast, a dinner, lunch.
con, card party or theatre party.
The reason is that invitations OF this
sort are personal. They are not in
vitations of general nature to gen.
eral affairs, but are an especial
mark Of courtesy or compliment.
Church weddings, teas or large re.
ceptions may be classified as gen.
eral affairs. A church, for instance,
is supposed to be ample enough to
hold a very large number Of per-
sons and general acquaintance bid
den to a wedding. They may be
present or not. as they please. =
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

following unbecoming styles In dress?
That is the curious thing. A woman
considers herself clever II she ilni-
tates other women, even to the point
OF absurdity, and is fearful OF at
tracing too much attention il she
dares to be original.
I dislike fashions. They make all
women look alike. and they reduce
to one standard something which
should be infinitely varied, distinctive
and attractive. Routine Is never
agreeable. Individuality is charming.
would have woman dye her hair
purple, If purple hair was becoming
to her. AT least, I should admire her
courage.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

folds as soon as The wearer Is in re-
pose, leaving the impression that no
harm had been. done.
Logic in a dress, to my mind,
stands for beauty. Decorum and
logic-these are the two things which
should govern q woman in the choice
of her dress. Fashions should be
ignored. A prevailing mode may.
guide a woman-but nothing more
for the really wel-dressed woman
never follows it blindly.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

TAAUL POIRET, of the he
most talked about of the famous French dressmaker
- is writing series of exclusive articles in HARPER'S
BAZAAR The articles illustrated by photographs of his
charming and odd
In the number of HARPER'S BAZAAR Nh. Poiret
has novel and interesting little the logic
So unusual is the viewpoint that by permission of HARPERS
Bazaar the article and of the fascinating photographs
that illustrate it reproduced n this page.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

A Silk Crepe with All the Radiant
Coloring of the Orient Ha. Been
Used by Poiret in This Gown. Note
the New MuH Sleeves Which Like
the Edges of the Garment Are
finished with Real White Skunk
Fur.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

presented, but it is now approved.
The logic in design should be
completed. A dress showing the
panier effect is illogical with a
Grecian border of a divided skirt. If
you want pnnier, then see to it that
the rest Of the dress is carried out
accordingly.
If your gown is to be built on
Oriental lines, then have no stiff
laces or Medici collars to upset the
fundamental scheme If the Tana5ra
is your model, then see that your
draper!es are exactly like those of the
original statuettes. Do not start out
with straight lines in your design
and permit them to develop into bulgy
curves. Build a gown as logically as
an architect plans church. Every
garment, in fact, should be architec-
fnrolly- dactcpad
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30
Draperies, Too, Should
Have Meanine

l aohor on dress buttons that are
not meant to button. A button is not
an ornamcnt-it is an object of
utility. If it does not serve any pur-
pose then do not put it on. A button
should button, or be placed so that It
might button, but placed haphazard
on a dress 1t spoils the logic and
consequently the ensemble.
Draperies are beautiful when logic
ally handled; otherwise they are
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30
period.
Individuality Is
the Essential.
considerable
period.

n OAloA 10 IL &C
nowadays to dress as
she chooses. yet nine
times out Of ten she
does not avail her
self OF the privilege.
Why does she lack
the courage 10 make
herself attractive.
when on the othe.
hand she is quite
willing 10 make her
self ridiculous by
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

would have women wear what
ever is suitable 10 them, consistent
with their social position and with
the occasion. Those three things are
the only ones that should be con
sidered in the choice of a dress. and
they should be adhered to vigorously.
For example. consider it crime
for a woman To wear conspicuous
Jewels In the morning.
Build a Gown After
a Logical Design.
Dress is an art-an art to be
studied as conscientiously as any
other art; and l would have the
adept in it exemplify her art bS
dressing consistently with conditions
and with her own state of mind In
other words, sad colors typify grief
and brilliant hues indicate JOY.
Clothes should be- chosen according
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1913-11-30

The Back View of tho Black
and White Mourning Cos
tune Showing the Skilful
DraPng of the Chiffon Into
the Black Velvet Panel of tho
Wrap. The Arrangement of
the Draping Carries Out the
Rules Laid Down by M.
Fol. ct in His Argument on
the Logic of Dress.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1913-06-19
RAILROADS AND THE PEOPLE.
western Omctals Want the Public
to Help In Appraisals.

WASHINGTON, June ls.--Representa-
tives of the State railway commissions of
the middle West to-day appealed to Fresi-
I dent Wilson to take steps for securing TO
the general public voice in the physical
appraisal of the railroads which the Inter-
state Commerce Commission was ordered
, TO make by a bill Senator La Toilette
| pressed through Congress AZ the las. s"s-
sion. Men wh6 called at the White House
| to-day to present their views on this sub
| j"ct were John II. Atkinson. chairman
~ the Missouri commission Herbert
Thorn of the Iowa commission. W II
Strutsman. chairman of the Board Of
Railway Commissioners OF North Dakota
and Henderson $. Martin Of the Kansas
, commission.
! The four men said they could speak for
! the public service commissions OF Illinois.
! Missouri. North Dakota. Nebraska, Kan
sas, Oklahoma and South Dakota. They
! pointed out that at n recent meeting Of
representatives, Of the great railway sys-
tens Of the country President Rea of
the Pennsylvania has been authorized To
take steps TO secure to the railroads the
privilege OF having counsel when the ap-
pra!sal OF their property is being made.
! The State commissioners contention was
that the general public has an edual right
with the railroads to express its views
| as the work progresses
No definite plan for securing to IN,
States the desired representation was adj
vanced At to-day's conference,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1913-06-19
METROPOLITAN LINE
EASTERN STEAMSHIP CORPORATION

Francisco or given any financial assist
ance to the California bankers.
The Germans are using the fac
that Great Britain has not accepted
formally the invitation to join in 'h,
exposition. Regarding Great Britain
as their chief commercial rival the Ger
man Government and commercial IN.
terests say that If England does no,
bother TO exhibit at San Francisco thcr.
is no reason why Germany should
II is understood also that another
factor in Germanys reluctance to par.
ticipatc is the uncertainty as TO what
will be the outcome Of the Controvcrsy
over the British protest against ex.
emption OF American vessels from pay
ment OF tolls in passing through ,he
Panama Canal.
a decision OF this controversy IL
favor Sf the British contention would
do much. it Is expected, to stimuat.
German interest in both the Panams
Canal and the San Francisco celotra
ton OF the opening. Ii is understoor
that this phase of the situation is r.,
principal reason why Great Britain ht-
rcfrained from accepting the invita-.
of the United States.
- be induced by definite concessions u.
The part OF the United States To- ',!u .,
the San Francisco celebration. Ei,-..
on the other hand probably Wal g. .f-
to take part in the exposition rcGt'3
Of the result Of the canal Contrpt ,."-,
tho tariff Legislation. kes"ntmr"f 60.
the abrogation of the treaty uf 1>a-
the general handling of tho JrWi~J p.-
port question is responsible for Russ
Indifference.
Aside from France. Japan ami I, .
most Of the nations that hav" ac,,..
the invitation to join in the eNpus,-
are Latin American countries who's 81
terest in the canal is foreeonc con,
sion. The relative importance w.
which European and Latin Amcri,an
participation is regarded was demon
strated by the sending of a commissiop
Of high officials to present tho Amer
can invitation to the Governments o
| Europe. No such commission was sen
to Latin America.
| Resentment against the United State
Is quite general in Europe regarding thu
1915 exposition arrangements. accordlns
TO advices received here. Americans AZ.
reminded by the Europeans tha, III.
United States Government rarely appro
PIRATES any money for participating ir
expositions in other parts of the worlc
and yet expects foreign Governments tt
make liberal expenditures for participa
ton in American eXpositions.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1913-06-19

rnc Ndn nlr!s'rLtion hill proy.d,- ma.
within sixty days after tho ylsSag" ~
thc h,l the Secretary "f - Treasury,
the Atiorncy-G"n, anil III. Comp
'ro'jc' ~ NO Curr' ucy, acting as e To-
sorvo bank ORGANIZATION committee.
shall d''.d" the l'n.'.d States Into no,
loss than 'wclN" districts. each district
to contain u Federal rcs";'v. city.
rhe districts are 10 l,c app"rtl"ncd with
due r"gar, To w conN"ni"nc" ana cOurs"
% business ~ til" communities and will
not necessarily Cuincido with th" area
~ tho states. Tn" districts may h" re-
adjusted ny the Federal reserve. board
created lay tn" act. This r"adilI>tmcnt
may be brought about upon II Join, ap-
piicatiun - M! loss than ton national
banks situated within any IN, ut tn"
exs Ing districts.
. In each Federal reserve city tn" or
ganiza.ion com,nitt." shall organize IA
Federal reserve bank. Every Federal
ros,rV. bank shall have paid up an,;
uninipair,d capital a; TIN. tiino ut u, gin
ning business of not less than si.doo, "oo
r. max" M this capital every national
innk located within a given district j.
required tu subs, rih" Iu th. capita, stock
OF tho resrr>. bank II that distr!c, in :,
sum equal :" -" per cent of its own
un.mpaircd capital
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1913-06-19
The Electors Duty,

The directors Of each Federal reserve
bank shall choose one elector for the
selection Of the representatives OF the
reserve bank in the Federal Reserve
Board The said electors shall upon
call Of the Secretary Of the Treasury,
choose by ballot the three members Of
the Federal Reserve Board aforesaid, no
TWO Of such members TO be residents Of
the same Federal reserve district OF
the members first chosen one Shall be
elected for a term Of two years. one for
four years and one for six years
Thereafter each such member shall be
chosen for a term Of six years. The
Governor of the Federal Reserve Board
subject to tn" supervision of the Secrc-
tary of the Treasury and of the board
shall he the active managing officer of
the Federal Reserve Board. He shall lie
subject to removal by the President
upon statement of the reasons for
such removal
The first meeting Of the Federal Re-
serve Board shall be- held in Washing
ton Immediately after the organizat tion
Of Federal banks. No member of the
board shall hav" any banking conncc-
tions. TIL" Secretary Of the Treasury
Is to bc chairman Of the Federal Re-
serve Board. The office Of Comptroller
Of tn" Currency is continued
Section ~ empowers the Federal Re
serve Board:
"ta) To examine at It's discretion tn,
accounts and hooks Of each Federal re
! serve bank and to require such statements
and reports AS II deems necessary
"th) To repuir" or on applcat ton I,
permit Federal reserve bank to reds
count the paper Of any other Fedora
, reserve bank
'tc) To establish each woek or as mucl
oftener AZ required. rate OF discoun
which shall be mandatory upon eacl
FEDERAL reserve bank and for each elias
OF paper; provided that said ratio h dis
, count need not hc uniform for all Fed
, oral reserve banks, but shall he mad
with view TO accommodating tho com
mercr of IN" country and promoting
stable price level ,,.,
| susp~U ~UsiOn Rtshts.
"th To suspend for a period not o.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1913-06-19
BANKERS DISCUSS SCHEME.
Association Appoints Sub.COm II
tee 20 Make Report,

ATLANTIC CITY, June lS.-Followine \
session taken up entirely with an infor-
NAL discussion Of the thirty-three Ques-
tions submitted by the Senate Finance
Committee regarding the Administration
banking bill the members Of the currency
commission of the American Bankers AS.
soc!ation adjourned to-day after appoint
ing subcommittee to compile an an
swer TO the questions, The members OF
the commission have been unable to se-
cure a copy Of the bill.
The subcommittee consists Of A. r
Hepburn Of New York. j. $. Forgan OF
Chicago. j. T. Talbert of New York. J
Perrin of Los Angeles and a. Reynolds
of Des Moines.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1913-06-19

Al the expiration of twenty NearA
every per cent. bond then outstano.
ing shall be exchanged for 3 per cent.
bonds of like domination. without the
circulation privilege. and all national
bank notes then outstanding shall be
recalled and redeemed by the national
bank that Issued the same. Notes still
remaining in circulation at the end Of q
period to be flxed by the Federal reserve
board shall be secured by an equal
amount Of lawful money deposited in
the Treasury Of the United States by
the banking association originally is
suing the notes.
Under section 81 every national
bank within sixty days after date
to he announced by the Secretary Of
the Treasury. shall establish with the
Federal reserve bank in its district u
credit balance on the books Of the latter
institution equal to not less than 3 per
cent. Of its own total demand liabilities
exclusive of circulating notes, and at
the end OF fourteen months this amount
must be increased to not less than >
per cent. such balance may at any
time he increased
After a date fixed by the Secretary of
lue iktunIuG dSSO-
Citations now classified as country banks
and situated outside the central reserve
cities must maintain "a reserve equal
to IL per cent of the aggregate amount
of their deposits such reserve shall
consist of 5 per cent. of lawful money
held actually in their own States. The
remainder Of the l5 per cent. reserve
may for period of thirty-six months
from and after the date set by the Sec
rotary Of the Treasury consist of bal
ances due to n national bank in reserve
or central reserve cities. AZ now defined
by the law. From and after the thirty
six months the 10 per cent. reserve
required by country banks shall consist
either of lawful money In its own
vaults or of a balance on deposit with
the Federal reserve bank Of it's district.
or both.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1913-06-19

t'nicr section tho earn ugs of each
fcueral reserv" bank are disposed Of a-
follows:
After the payment "f all "Nl'.ns.s
AMI taN-s n" shareholders shall he
entitled I" r"r.!v" al annual dividend
of : per c"n;iIm "n IA" paid N capital.
which dividend shall l." cumulative one
half TN" net rlrnnrs shall bc pad into
til" surplus fund until said fund shall
amount to 90 por ccntum Of n paid
naming "n.-half shall hr paid To- Ia.
United States. and whenever and 50
long as :he surplus fund II such Fed
cral r"s"rv" h,ak amounts To % per
c"nttm "f N. pad in capital and the
shareholders shall have received the
dividends At ;hr rat" nj ; per c.ntum
per nnnum herein provided for all cx-
c'Ss earnings shah b. paid to the
United States"
I TIL, hill pro; .d :, th,t every Federal,
! r"scrv" bank shall h. exempt from
Federal sat" and local taxation. .x-
""u' In rtsu"C. to 'aNes upon rcai es-
tate
: section y "t ,he .i.l ir v'd : that any
national banking association h"r"totor"
organized may within one year from
N" % ssas" oi III" ac. ana with the ap-
pr"val OF II" Federal reserve board he
cran''d all tn rights and h" subject
~ all IN. liabilities uf national bank
ing dissertations organized suhs..Ju.nt
to III" ia>Sag" If N. dC'. Any national
banking association falling ~ organic.
! indcr III" act within on" year after
.ts i'a-Sag" WI l." dissolved