The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1913-04-06
entire lower edge.
BY Ida AaIEs WILLIS.

So turns the wheel of time, but few
weeks remain before we must observe
| the time-honored custom of emitting the
oyster from our menus. Like other roy
alties the letter r marks the oyster as
something quite above ordinary things;
and when the months are due which
lack this regal hallmark. our peerless
bivalve retires from public life and So
ciety, and the oyster lovers speed his de-
parture with many a dainty feast, and
welcome his coming with renewed ap-
probation of his rare righteousness.
Oyster planting and raising, while yet
in its infancy in this country, Is great
industry. To bring the bivalve to the
highest state of perfection the work
must be done by planters who have
skill, time, and money, coupled with as
close a knowledge of the oyster. and
his ways as may be acquired, for "close
as an oyster is certainly the acme of
secretiveness. oyster cookery should
never be intrusted to one who lacks
understanding of it's fine qualities. As
to the manner of cooking and serving
it is every one to their taste. The
Greeks, who were the most asthet-
cal of feeders. always ate them out or
hand''-that is, opened at the TABLETOP
they knew as do all who really prize
the delicacy of the favor, that to lay
an oyster on a dish for even short
time will lesson its flavor. And to lay
the oyster deprived Of its pearly coat.
on a bed of ice is a fragrant disregard
for niceties of epicurism. Another point
sure to be disregarded by the unthink-
ing and needless tyro, Is the fact that,
always, must the dainty morsel be open
ed so it is left immersed In its own
juices in the deep shell. This done an
American will ask for a section of lemon.
pepper. crackers. and butter,e and pro-
coed to enjoy the appetite that comes
with eating. The Englishman gets ful-
Ter enjoyment from his treat as he
chooses brown bread and crisp white
celery and rejects the lemon and sea-
soning.
The Size Of Oysters to Serve Raw.
The smaller sized oysters are. as rule.
the best favored. Those known as me
diums are the best size for serving on the
shell, as they do not need to be cut and
vet are too large to swallow whole. Just
large enough to make two bites. which
is as permissible as two bites to
cherry.
Good Oysters May BE Had Out OF
Oysters are procurable out of season FOR
those who have the price and fancy Tor
the bivalves during hot weather. Inere
are certain varieties that are transferred
from their original plants to artificial
beds, generally along the main coast or
rivers. This so disturbs them they cease
to breed and continue in the state known
as fresh oysters.
Ways of Cooking Oysters.
While new ways are devised by cooks
who delight III producing novelties, there
are few methods superior to those pre-
scented by our famous oyster cooks or
years gone by. The Americans show
their originality in oyster cookery as in
everything else. In the matter of stews
YOU will find almost every family cher
ishes a recipe for what they consider the
stew par excellence.
Droiling in the Shell.
Long will live the memory Of the homely
and primitive, but luscious, oyster feasts
on the Eastern Sho' of Maryland. Prime
fat oysters dripping fresh from the waters
OF the Chesapeake, placed on hot Goals
or heated stones. and as soon as the shell
opened a bit of butter busted with pepper
clapped in quickly and the open upper
shallow shell-pried open. then risk the
morsel down your throat. A hot griddle
will answer very well for this simple
way Of cooking.
A French Broil.
The shells are scrubbed well and the
oysters first opened on the deep shell, q
little yuaitra d'hotal butter or sauce. IN