Arizona republican., 1913-02-23

Havana brown, yet has the same general tone. This is nothing more than soft, deep gold something like old fashioned tan, yet with more yellow. The Oriental tobacco is superb in velvet, also in satin and crepe de chine. It does not go well with other combinations of colors, however
 The very simple effect of blouses and corSages will be modified dur ing the coming spring season and embroidery will be used, not much but enough to make a change and have things look like new. The Gre elan effects will be repeated both in afternoon and evening gowns. which means that drapery will be used as much as ever Where draping is not employed, tiny knife plaits will run straight up and down. in the center of the back and front Some times even with these plaits drapery will fall to at least one side Cor seted as the fashionable woman is. the designer may now loop goods on her form to his hearts content. and this he surely will continue to do.
 Popin in silk in wool, in cot ton-any kind of poplin, in fact. promises to be much used There are plain poplins and moire poplins and brocaded poplins. and one often finds at least two of these varieties combined in the same costume Other material to be in demand for elab- crate street or afternoon semi tailored costumes are silk WhipcOrd heavy bengaline, and the still heavier 'soie regence." In all of these there is conspicuous use of buttons. of which there is an avalanche this season, showing the greatest variety and originality. Among the wool materials appropriate for the simpler tailored suit, the real costume trot- teur, there are serges. Bedford cords new weaVeS of whipcords. poplins, ratines. drap de laine. and some oth- CT less exploited varieties from which to choose.
 An over blouse affords clever way of introducing the skirt material irf the blouse to a coat suit Often tlit iildltl idl lS lpp IcdNN to De used for the entire waist. but if the over blouse is developed in the cloth the underwaist of sheer chiffon or silk Voile gives a dainty and light effect
 Often the underwaist is of sheer batiste or white net. which can be laundered when soiled, and some times the over blouse is not attached to the skirt, so that it can be worn on bleak. chilly days. when such an addition is decided comfort The little square shoulder yoke often ap- pears in back as well as in front
 Ribbon will play Gn important part in the new millinery in the shape of crown bands, streamers, chip loops bows, ear loops and quill effects in satin, faille. moIe and taffeta weaves Rose stem and foliage are seen made of picot edges moire ribbon in the exact shade of the skin of a Bermuda onion. Large pompons are formed of a compact mass of ribbon loops and finished with a jetted stem These are placed in either the cen ter front or at the side of a draped turban or other small hat, or else poised over the brim- edge of a large hat.
 Large Sprawlng bows are either spread acros the back of a hat crown or are disposed in erect fan effect Long wired ribbon loops dart from a tight ribbon knot, a conical base of flowers or other ornament and extend from tho side far beyond the back of a hat brim When velour ribbon is used, the raised pattern is frequently cut out and applied flatly Floral designs in ribbons or rich and dainty in Coloring. Vatican effects pompadour designs and gorgeous Or iental motifs are prominent. Tapes try and jouy effects in compact de- signs of flowers and vines are or backgrounds of satin, faille and lus- trous moire. Bulgarian patterns will be favorites. Most of them are taf fetas with picot, loop, crown and cord finish