davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06
Lingerie as the Foundation for
the New Figure Gets Attention,
as Do Sash@s, to Widen the Waist

principles of getting the wearer into such
frocks.
Black satin is probably the chiefest of
all materials for these girdles. and 1t Is
now used where a patent leather belt was
once used. 1t is added to gowns of white
and colored linen and cotton fabrics, and
1t only gives place to a color when the
gown is of white with colored design
that seems to cry out for belt to match
II. The leading French artists insist that
the Roman striped ribbon, which is
revival of directoire days. will be con-
tinued on all kinds Of gowns next au
tumn but at present it has been dificult
to persuade women over here TO wear ii
to any great extent
Scotch plaid ribbon and silk quickly
ran itself out. No one quite knows why.
Probably because it was too hot for them
In the beginning, but it would not sur
prise those who closely watch fashions
to see il return into some degree OF favor
in September clothes
No one can tell what will happen be-
tween now and the LIST of September.
The 10th Of August there will be the first
son shown in Paris, and from this date
until the 10th of September those OF US
who are interested will be sitting behind
closed doors the Place Vendome, the
Rue de la PaiX. the Rue Taitbont the
Place de TOpera and the Avenue d Antn.
These days will be filled with sessions
from 10 until G, and by this time every
one knows the tremendous effort at Sc
crecy which the French dressmakers will
make and what mystery will surround
their exploitation of new gowns.
But between now and then rest assured
on this side Of the water to comment on.
to copy and to wear. For much that
Paris introduced in the June races Is yet
to be introduced over here.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06
For a Shore DINNER
and a Driftw@od Fire

very short time. But you must work
quickly SO that the stones will not
grow cold, and to make this possible
have all the food ready to cook before
the. fire is butt.
Cover the food. as soon as it is in
place. with q heavy piece of cotton
cloth, so that no dirt can sift through.
and then pile on more seaweed until
no steam escapes. The moist layer Of
seaweed next to the hot stones fur
nishes the steam which cooks every
thing as 1t can be cooked in no other
way. Do not uncover the food for
three-quarters of an hour. At the end
Of that time the appetites Of all the
picntckers will probably be ravenous,
and If the fire is properly made and
the stones are sufficiently hot when
the cooking is begun the dinner will
come up to every possible expectation.
When the sea food is taken out Of the
pit throw In some more sticks to make
a fire for the coffee. Build a little
fireplace Of stones to hold the coffee
pot over the fame. and when the
sticks are burning vigorously start the
coffee. To every half cupful Of ground
coffee add an egg and two tablespoon
fuls of cold water Mix this thorough
ly, put 1t in the pot. and add a pint OF
boiling water Put 1t over the fire un.-
til it comes to a boil. then add a pint
more Of boiling water. Boil the coffee
for two minutes and simmer 1t for ten
ny pulling IL dSlOc on the not stones
The food cooked In the fireplace. cof-
fee, with cream, and some fruit
crackers and cheese make satisfying
and delicious dinner.
If there are no stones at hand and
the pit method Of building a fire is
tried. the task is little more difficult.
for much more wood must be used, un-
til the sand is hot and dry and there is
a huge bed of embers. Then draw
away the embers from part of the pit,
bury the food. wrapped in paper and
wet seaweed, under a little sand, and
pull the hot embers over 1t.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

@AN you make a driftwood fire?
And do you know how to cook a
shore dinner? II you cannot make
such a fire and do not know how to
cook such dinner you still have much
to learn. For this is the time of year
when a dinner of food from the sea,
cooked over a seaweed fire in the sand,
is the desire Of every holiday maker
To begin with, gather fiat stones. if
your beach is generous enough to hold
them. They should be big stones-a
foot or two across. Form a circle with
these stones. and pile other stones on
them to make a bin or firepot. II you
have no stones dig a pit in the sand a
foot deep.
After the fireplace is ready, lay the
Are. If you have the stone fireplace
which Is really ideal for cooking
shore dinner. I'LL 1t in with small, dry
kindlings. Cover the kindlings with
long, strong sticks which will hold
more fiat stones in place as a cover
ing for the fire. Then light the kim
dlings. and let the fire burn until the
stones from the top fall into the pit
on the bed of embers.
Now 1t is time to begin to cook the
food. which should be already pre-
pared Wait until all the wood is past
flaming. so that there will be no smoke
to spoil the taste OF the dinner. Then
spread an inch thick layer Of fresh
seaweed over the hot stones and
spread the food on this. CLANS in their
shells. onions in paper bags. sweet
potatoes in their skins. fish wrapped
in .waxed paper. or put in a paper
cooking bag, and ears Of corn. with
some Of the husk left on, can all be put
In place on the bed OF seaweed in a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06
To Make Delicious Cakes

cream, a layer OF peaches first and cream
on top. Cover the little shortcakes in
the same way. piling up the whipped
cream on top.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

had any curve at the waist line. The sides
| and front were boned entirety siraisn h
| and where the figure did not justly Inns
above the waist line, or rather at VIVA.
might be called the diaphragm line, the
whalebone was, nevertheless. placed IN
a straight line so that small Piiiuw
of cotton could be put in between tns
body and the corset. IL needed. This uSeu
to be done when 1t was the fashion 10
have a large bust. and many women
remember when cushions were attacneu
to the lower part of the corset 10 give
hips.
So there is nothing especially new about
the innovation, and the best part OF IL
is that nearly all women have large
waist naturally, and now they nave.
chance to be comfortable and fashion
able During the last six years the waist
has been growing larger instead OF sInall,
er, and only a few vain women nave trieu
to draw attention to themselves py
achieving small waist. .
fashioned. The woman who has a visible
sign OF restriction between the bust ana
hips looks like a back number In COM
parison with the woman whose nsure -
free and easy and who looks as though
she was supple enough to DO nano.
spring or at least pick up spool OF
thread from the floor. This large de
velopment does not extend to the DUST
and hips The former is held in by bras
sieres and the latter by boned corsets OF
waist-high girdles The brassiere mas
become as important as the corset
How the New Figure Is Built.
Not only the women who are largely
developed go In for brassieres. but those
also who wish TO achieve the new figure
In the easiest way. The modern corsets
stop about two inches above the natural
waist line in front. and about three inches
and half in the back. A very slim
figure can depend on these supports alone,
but the majority of women use bras
siere instead of corset cover. The truth
is that the latter garment is going away
as the muslin .petticoat did: and as knick-
ers are taking the place Of the petticoat.
so are brassieres taking the place OF the
ribboned and ruffied corset cover of fine
handiwork.
The chemise has come into its own
again because the transparency or at
least translucency OF bodices this summer
make the usual knitted shirt unsightly.
Chemises are exceedingly popular and
they are made of muslin. china silk and
crepe de chine. in white flesh pink.
which is just shade off white. They are
not full and they are carefully fitted with
straps OF lace or white ribbon over the
shoulders and side seams that hold in all
the fullness.
A narrow box-pleat IS inserted in the
waist line at the back in order to give the
necessary fullness when one sits down.
The new kind OF chemise has it's back
longer than the front, and this is fastened
over the front with two fiat pearl
buttons. and the edges finished with a
ruffie of lace which gives the appearance
Of muslin Knockers. AS the garment l.
all in one. 1t obviates any extra materia
at the waist line, which Is always com
fort to any woman.
Over this chsmise is placed the low cor
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

set with its four elastics. and just here
is again shown the superiority of this
garment over knitted shirt, for it keeps
the elastic and its two buckles from rub
bling against the skin. The knitted shirt
is so short that it gives no protection
against these metal buckles
Over the chemise is placed a brassiere
which is ornamental enough to serve as
a corset cover. and tight enough to serve
as corset. 1t holds in the figure with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06
Heidelberg Ice Cream.
TO BLEACH FADED
BLOUSES AND DRESSES

THE colored dress or blouse that has
become faded with frequent iaunder-
ings. or from wear in the sun, may be
bleached to a clear white by boiling in
cream of tartar water. The correct
quantity 10 be used to make the garment
pure white is teaspoonful of the
powder To q quart of water.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06
Silhouette and Thirty-Fowr-Imch Waist
Popular Because They Are Comfortable,
Are What the Dr@ssmak@rs Talk About

HIS is the time of year when
fashions are quiescent; that is,
from the standpoint of creative
ness Women are faShioning
naur frnckS huNinp nnW hats
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

out discomfort and Is a dozen times cool
er than a corset, because 1t is made OF
thin material.
The fashion for these little garments
one realized who has not an eve on the
progress OF the minor styles Ones
f1rst exclamation is that no woman wears
corset covers any more. until one re-
members how absurd a sweeping state
ment is on any subject. The truth is
tnat more women are being won over to
the brassiere every week, mainly because
the shops have brought them out in such
clever designs. You can pay any price
you wish for them. Speciality shops ask
IS apiece for handful of cluny lace and
white net but they are admirably made
and the lace is of excellent quality.
There are much cheaper ones in coarse
net and more expensive ones made by
the corsetiere and personally fitted to
the ngure. Whatever kind you buy do see
that they fit the figure This is essen
tfal, and this is the trouble with the ma
Jority of those sold in the department
stores. 1t is not possible to make a gar
ment that will fit three figures alike and
the department shops do the best they
can. but the woman errs when she wears
the garment as it is regardless Of wheth-
er or not 1T holds in and supports her
figure.
No matter how large the measurements
may be FOR the waist and stomach. fash
ion does not like the exhibition of rolls
OF flesh. One must be neat and orderly
looking, even IL one does assume to have
q natural figure
mere are too many kinds of brassieres
TO go into here, but among the best are
those OF openWork embroidery lined with
net, featherboned below the bust. and
fitted to the figure from three inches be-
low the collar bone to the waist line
These are not intended to be worn under
transparent bodices, as they are too high
In the neck Another popular kind is Of
openWork embroidery or cluny lace on
a heavy net foundation. cut to go straight
around the figure under the arms and
featherboned in front and back This is
extra low. and has half-inch straps Of
the lace going over the shoulders. Some
are without this strap
The most ordinary kind that one ran
buy and make Is nothing more or less
than fitted corset cover Of heavy net
with featherbone to give il BODY and a
tiny edge OF lace to give Il finish. Into
this the shields are securely stitched and
are washed with ii, a convenience which
every woman will appreciate. It keeps
one from having to put shields into every
fresh bouse
women are making these brassieres at
nome out or Inherent qualities Of curtain
net and all-over lace They fasten down
the back and the seams are quite easy
10 manage as are the broad featherbones
which are stitched into place One can
make several in day, and as thew wash
without trouble. and ease the summer
burden or fresh dressing il is no won
aer that women have seen their advan-
taees ana taken them up with enthu-
siasm; they can be washed out at home
like collars
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

side of the gown measures thirty-fOur
because of the gathered material and the
folds Of the universal broad girdle.
Interrogating the corset makers, the
answer was the same. Nothing that could
bear the name of a fashionable corset
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

cream, a layer OF peaches first and cream
on top. Cover the little shortcakes in
the same way. piling up the whipped
cream on top.
Miss Daniels Custard Ice Cream.
Beat the yolks OF six eggs lightly. add
to them one quart OF fresh milk and
one cupful of sugar. put in the double
boiler and cook to a smooth custard. Az
soon the mixture coats a spoon take
from the fire and strain. Set away to
cool. When quite cold add one pint OF
cream, more sugar. If desired. and a table
spoonful of fiavoHng. When tie freezer
is ready for the cream TO be turned in.
add the beaten whites OF the eggs and
freeze. If the ice cream is to be nodded,
an hour in one-half cupful of milk re-
served from the custard should be added
when the custard is done
Lightning Chocolate Layer Cake.
Sift together one heaping cupful of
flour. three-quarters of a cup of sugar
and two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking
powder Into one-quarter cup of melted
butter break one egg and fill the cup
witt milk. Pour this into the sfted
-four and sugar. add iavoring and bake
in two layers.
Chocolate Filling.
One and one-quarter cupfuls Of sugar.
one-third cupful of milk. two tablespoon
fuls chocolate. one teaspoonful OF va
nilla. Stir together then boil without
stirring until 1t forms a very soft ball
in water. Take from fire. add a tea
spoonful of butter let stand FIVE minutes.
then beat until II begins to thicken-
Spread between layers and on top OF
cake
Fruit Frappe With Nuts.
Almost every woman nowadays has her
own special frappe combination, with
which She delights TO mystify her guests.
Into the bottom OF the frappe glass put
generous spoonful OF preserved straw
berries, on top of the berries come the
ice cream, vanilla in this case, then a
spoonful of whipped cream. and on top
OF the cream a grating of English wal
nuts. All sorts of fruit combinations are
used foundation for the frappes and
the covering for the whipped cream is
yariouSly cocoa. grated macaroons, chop
ped nuts. a sprinkle of cinnamon or cam
died rose leaves. Pretty little frappe
glasses in the American pressed ware,
light and dainty. can now be purchased
as low 81 cents dozen. In serving,
each glass IS set on a pretty china plate
with a little dolly between the glass and
tile plate. 4 spoon, OF course. goes with
1t.
Heidelberg Ice Cream.
Put one cupful of milk in a double
boiler and bring to a scald. Add one tea
spoonful of arrowroot dissolved I'm ta-
blespoonful of cold milk and cook ten
minutes. Sweeten with one-half cupful Of
sugar When cold add one pint of cream
and flavor delicately with vanilla, straw
berry or orange. Freeze.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06
Popular Wide Belts.

IL IS only natural that with the enlarged
waist line should come the careless cir
oie' oeit which is loosely wrapped
around the figure without any pretense
Oh trying 10 make the waist look small
o. restrain the figure. These girdles
dominate the fashions OF the day.
Ihey may be of the material Of the
gown. OF another material in a contrast.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

HERE
A IANDE
Al
UP OF AT
ENTIRELY COVERED
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-07-06

MORE TRAc THAN
ING o IS THEW is
" LATE BUrTo HOLES
IS
BoATNGR
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
Ritchie Offered S20,0c0

New York, Oct r. Willie Ritchie, the champion lightweight pugilist has received an offer of $20,00O to go to Europe to fight Freddie Welsh, the English champion.
 Rtchic and Welsh were matched to fight in Vancouver on September 20 to decide the worlds championship, but the bout was called of on that occasion. Ritchie held out for 50 per cent of the gate receipts and moving picture royalties, while Welsh want ed to get the lions share of the receipts win or lose and as no agreement could be reached, the match was called off. It is believed by men of the sporting world that Welsh was stalling all along, hoping to get some easy money and further notoricty The English fighter also claimed that a sprained ankle received six weeks previous prevented him from getting in proper shape for the bout
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
HlERTA DECLARES
 HIMSELF DICTATOR

Mexico City, Oct. 17Povisona President Huera today is, sued proclamation dssong the Mexican and all the powers vested that body by the constitution of the republic Protesting congressmen have been thrown into prison
 Shortly after the publication of the proclamation, diplomats resenng the governments of Great Britain France Spain Sweden and Norway held conference and requested their governments to send warshps at once to the of Mexico,
 Wilson Sounds Warning Washington, Oct 7-When President Wilson and cabinet were informed that Provisional President uerta had dissolved the Mexican congress- imprisoned many of its cononast members and assumed the role of dictator of the republic the President ad vsed Huera the American looks with deaure such proceedings and that he Quera) would be held account for any harm that may bea the imprisoned deputies and representatives
 Europe in Accord with Administration
 The state department has received from the European powers that they entirely approve the action of the American ernment in the Mexican affair.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18

CHAPTERS IN sULZER AND TAMMANY FIGHT
  o himself York challenge Charles F. Murphy Hall
 sul refused appoint office the direction of Murphy and repeatedly proclaimed his independence, of Iammany First big breach when splz last eToued the direct primary and opened fight for a real direct law The legislature with TTmay leaders, defeated the Sur direct bill and which the csed made the appealing the people, CT szr began be made public The breach with Murphy became s beyond revived widely circulated the effect that indictment for alleged Hampshire 
 Hopkins Philadelphia filed Sul ze who married five Sulr declared the Hampshire and the Philadelphia ramerp by Tanm&ny He denied the charges both The the legislature Hly SUlzers bill and directed the Frawy investigate the official of the then declined ad
  l. tooka he nowd that i illegally n
  New York exchange which hadb made the s appropriated funds to his own bought stocks them. blanket denial by the legislature impeachment immediately presented adopted legislature could take those recommended by
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
ELECT DEMOCRAT
 IN WEST VIRGINIA

Wheeling, ". Va, Oct. 17.-M. M. Nelly, Democrat, on Tuesday last, at a special election, was chosen to succeed John Da- wis as the representative of the First dis trct of this state. Davis is now the so, Ecitor general of the United States.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
GOVERNOR JOHNSON
 GOES CAMPAIGNING

Sacramento, Cal, Oct 17.-Governor Hi ram Johnson left this city last Monday for New Jersey and Massachusetts to take the stump for the Progressive candidates in the state campaigns. He will return home after the elections.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
HUMPHREYS WANTS
 OUR UNITED SUPPORT

Seattle, Oct Congressman John E. Humphries of this state, who is here on a short visit, in an interview today stated that the united support of the entire Pacific coast will be needed to urge the passage cf the proposed Alaska railroad bills.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
SECRETARY LANE
 AGAIN AT WORK

Washington, Oct 17--Secrctary Lane of the interior dpaertment is again at his of flee, and has almost recovered from his recent illness. The secretary said today inst he hopes some day to see an allraiI line from Seattle to Alaska.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
COLLECTOR WILLIS
 SENDS RESIGNATION

Juneau, Oct. 17.-J. ". Willis collector of United States customs for the district of Alaska, has forwarded his resignation to Secretary of the Treasury McAdoo, and asks to be relieved of his duties by the first of January, 1914.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
JULIAN HAWTHORNE
 OUT OF PRISON

Atlanta, Ca, Oct 17-Julian Hawthorne. the noted author, who has been serving term in the federal penitentiary for illegal use of the mails, was released yesterday. Hawthorne left immediately for New York, where he will resume his literary work.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
IP(J(lIILl|,,IS'I'I(j 2 3 ],
In the Has-Been Class

Milwaukee, Oct 17-n a 10-rounta3on- test in this city last night Ad Wolgast had the better of the fight over Battling Mel son. The scrap was slow and uninterest- ing both men clearly showing that they are "has beens"
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
JACK JCHWS0N'S
 BONDS FORFEITED

Chicago, Oct. 1.-The s3o,oo0 bonds which were deposited in court l" this city for Jack Johnson, the colored pugiIlst, on a charge of white slavery, was today de clared forfeited on the grounds of non appearance.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
JONES' TRIAL SET
 FOR NOVEMBER 5

Indianapolis, Oct. l7-The trial Of Harry Jones, secretary of the National Structural IrCnworkers' Union, who was recently ar rested in this city .on charge of trans porting dynamite has been postponed until November ,.
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
WOM'T nIAKE TEST
 UNTIL NEXT JUNE

Seattle, Oct r. Information has iu>t been received in this city from the navy de purtment that an official test Of MatanusIla coal deposits would rot be made until neX, June
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
FIAT MIN CHARGED WITH rRESSPTASS

On the complaint of Thomas Aitken warrants issued the first of the week for the of Sam C. Aams William Knox, Angus hcDonad Charles Kuger and John Ratio the charge of espassng that piece of placer property known and described Chicago Bench Flat creek opposite the Wildcat soc;ation claim.
 Adams hearing is set for next Monday morning at Q o'clock
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18

Dan Morris is very ill at the Mcdonald hotel with very bad case of typhoid fever, and Dr. Moore has been attending him constantly the last two days. ,1r. Morris came into the country from Ia coma last spring and has been employed on tke steamer Pup during the summer
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
OLD GIANTS HARDLY GOT A LOOK-IN

New York; Oct 1.-The worlds championship baseball series ended today when the Athletics the making the necessary fourth victory the pennant Bush and Shang the bat erv for the Athletics and eeau and Mclean for the Giants In the
 middle of the seventh inning Crand replaced Iesreau The by innings:
 C:ans ........ 0 0 O-2
 The Athletics made 2 hits and error; the Giants made , hits and error
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
ARCTIC BROTHERHOOD MEETING

Au A. B.'s are urgently requested to at tend meeting of the Arctic Brotherhood next M2nday evening October 20.
 J. C. CURRIN, Arctic Recorder
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
BIG RALPH ROSE
 DIES OF TYPHOID

San Francisco, Oct. 17.-Ralph Rose, the giant college athlete, died of typhoid fever in this city yesterday Rose held many rec orcs for putting the shot
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18
WOUID-EE ASSASSIN
 EXECUTED AT PEKING

Pe!,ing, China, Oct IT, Chief of Police Chen, who recsaly confessed that he at tempted to assassnate the president of the Chinese republic, was executed in this city yesterday
Iditarod pioneer., 1913-10-18

Harry Locey, who has been in the trans portation business on the Iditarod river dur ing the past summer, has removed to Fiat City, where he will have charge of Crowley X Porter's store.