davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1913-07-02
PROFESSIONAL CARDS

PHYSICIAN.
Or. w. r. SHERLOCK.
PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON.
Office 10 North Fifth street, in the
Howell building.
Office hours-1o to IL a. M; 2 to q
p. M: evenings. to 8; sundays. II
to ! p. m. United States civil service
examiner.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

straight from Piccadilly, is in blue.
green and white broken plaid with
collar and cuff trimmings of plain
green. The lining Is of bright green
SILK. And by the bye, Innings are an
important feature in smart motor
coats of the moment TIE really
stunning coat always has its lining
of bright colored silk-the brighter
the better-and the lining shows it.
self off to good advantage when the
coat is thrown over an escorts arm.
or over the back of a restaurant
chair. This English model is long
enough to cover entirely little frock
of dark blue mohair=also of English
extraction-but it shows the neat but
toned boot, as perfect as a mans
dress boot, in it's flawless cut. its un-
trimmed vaMp of patent leather and
its well fitting top of black twilled
cloth.
All in tones of soft gray is a motor
coat intended for wear during an au-
tumn honeymoon trip through the
Berkshires. This coat is built of
striped gray and white reversible
cloth having back of plain gray.
This plain gray surface shows in a
long rever, and in collar and cuff
facings; inner facings of white cloth
and white buttonhole motifs adding
telling tone contrast The huge
buttons are of gray bone in rims of
galilith and are sewed on with heavy
white silk.
This simple but smart coat is
matched by girlish hat of white
felt trimmed with gray and green
picot ribbon. The chiffon veil offers
the sharp color contrast and is deep
green in tone.
Another striped coat is of soft yet
light diagonal worsted. This coat
has the new straight cut at the lower
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07
MAKING THE MOST OF SEP
TENDER.

~ sit at the piano, dsconsolately
A warbling Tosti's Goodbye, Sum-
" mer!" is no way to spend one of
the most glorious months of the whole
year. September is a much neglected
opportunity to most people. Then
is the air like wine, the demon HUI
midity has been laid low by advanc-
ing frost. the sun is not too hot to
bear, the sea was never so blue and
gold as now it is, the wind has swung
round from the languid south to the
brisk northwest and September is the
month of months for golf. for ramb-
ling in the woods, for motoring and
for motor boating. But one must
dress appropriately for after sunset
the air is apt to become chill, and
bleak wind may come up any moment
bringing the breath of winter just
as suggestion. The ideal outing
costume for September includes a
short skirt of serge or checked wor-
sted accompanied by belted MAXI
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07
/HZ7/4NDR4G %{heIHZZYUZE

! opera wraps and with bridge gowns
of velvet and silk, but the street bag,
for use with the tailleur of serge,
broadcloth, mohair or other material
that lends itself to the tailor's skill,
will be of leather.
EXquisitely soft and supple are the
new handbag feathers, however, for
they are puffed, pleated and folded
up in all sorts of odd ways such as
no coarse grained imitation seal or
walrus could ever be manipulated In
to. Morocco is a favorite, one of this
material has an envelope case of dark
green morocco, with a strap for car
rying over the hand. and also a long,
slender leather handle trimmed with
tassel. Another is pleated affair
in rich shade of blue. This model
has the curving frame and small ef-
feet at the top now so fashionable.
The frame is double, each side drop
ping down from solid section in the
center. On one side of this section
Is a semi-circular mirror, fitting the
space perfectly. On the other side is
removable leather panel with straps
holding manicure implements. In one
side of the bag is complete vanity
outfit and in the other pockets for
cardcase, memo-pad and the like.
The little flap pocket on the side Is
for small change and can be gotten
at without opening the top of the
bag.
A black saffian bag in pleated ef-
feet with a strap fastening and new
clasp of enameled metal, Is another
novelty. The violet moire lining is
a dainty asset of smartness in this
model. Saffian leather is long-wear-
ing and always gives satisfaction to
the last moment of wear-but as no
handbag now remains in fashion un-
til it wears out. this point matters
very little. All of the bags pictured
are rather small in size. Huge. reti-
cules-like handbags, have gone out
of fashion and it is not considered
desirable now to suggest either pack
ages or business papers enclosed, by
the size of ones handbag.
A very pretty little afternoon bag
of brown morocco has been photo
graphed with the flap lifted, to show
lining of canary colored MORE silk
and vanity outfit in dull brass and
mother of pearl, the items including.
powder. rouge. a beyeied mirror. eye
brow pencil lip stick and nail file.
This little brown case was presented
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07
THE LATEST BOUDOIR FOOT
WEAR is A LA CLEOPATRA.

"a OW is my lady's boudoir slipper
~ redolent of the land of the Nile, of
4 the lotus, of the sacred scaraba-
Gus. No more do fuzzy pomponed
Turkish slippers protrude from lovely
boudoir gowns; the Egyptian slipper is
the thing. The slipper is made of pale
green and earth red feathers, dove
tailed into each other to form a sort
of Egyptian key border design. Over
the heel is a much coiiventionalized
lotus flower. The foot is slipped un-
der the strap across the toe, a shaped
piece of leather holding the great
toe away from the smaller ones after
the manner OF an ancient sandal. An
arrangement of straps with a thong
passing under the central strip of
leather holds the slipper at the in
step. The heel is moderate in height
and the slipper is very comfortable
when the trim buttoned boots of the
outdoor toilette are removed.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

EbI- -INI up Win handbags,
sighed the girl with nothing-a-
VI year, takes deal of scheming
and contriving for really
smart handbags cost a mint O.
money Yet nothing can make
hundred dollar tailored suit so abso-
lutely hopeless as a teeny weeny lit
tie handbag-of the wrong kindi"
AS an instance in point, she held
up for inspection a nondescript bag
of black seal, framed in dull silver
and having a shape that was just off
the square.
Now look at this bag" she pro-
tested wrathfully to her interested
listener. 'It's all wrong; and 1 paid
hree-ninety- eight for it only last
May. Two years ago a mighty good
handbag that would last one through
several seasons would have cost a
dollar-ninety-e eight. Now for five dol
lars you can't bvy one that you are
sure will look right with your demi-
season gown. Last spring square
bags were the rage; now triangles are
in fashion. Two straps were the
thing year ago; now there must be
only one strap and that set in the
center of the frame. Last year you
couldn't pick out anything smarter
than velvet, or MORE mounted on
metal; now leather is the only swag-
ger thing-and leather is appallingly
expensive. AS for Innings" she flung
open the despised handbag and glared
at its gaping red mouth. red Innings
are now considered common. if you
please-purple, violet. gray and pale
buff are the only tints upon which
fashion smiles-Well," she closed the
gaping red mouth with a snap and
smiled with her own whimsical one,
its. either carry this perfectly good
hree-ninety- eight has-been with my
new eponge suit, or sacrifice a veil,
new buttoned boots and a neck frill
in order to get one that Is up-to- date"
Handbag styles do change like the
wind-there is not a particle of doubt
about 1t, and mostly responsible are
the makers who are continually push-
ing forward new styles to attract the
restless fancy of woman. But there
is some truth in the assertion of
these makers, that bag styles must
conform to costume styles and one
could hardly expect a neat, service
able bag of whatever cost. that
looked well with the primly tailored
suit Of five years ago. to fit into the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07
plain color.
Motor Wraps For Dressy Wear Re.
tain Draped Effects.

The graceful, clinging wrap, draped
across the figure and caught up at
the front, has not gone out of fash
ion, but is reserved for formal oc-
casions when the car is used as a
conveyance to and from a reception,
tea or afternoon bridge. Such wraps
are of wool eponge, plush, velour,
and matelasse with trimmings of rich,
plain silk or velvet. A particularly at
tractive wrap of dull blue matelasse
is pictured. This garment has the
bat-wing sleeve so fashionable now
and is trimmed with plain blue satin
matching the tone of the matelasse.
These wraps in mustard color are
wonderfully rich and distinctive;
one sees them also in rose, plum
color and black. A black wrap lined
with gold colored satin is perhaps as
useful a garment as the average
woman can possess in her wardrobe.
1t may be worn in the afternoon or
evening and is not too conspicuous
to appear anywhere in spite of it's In
disputable richness.
Footwear For the Tonneau.
There was a time when women
ueefneu any SORT Oh footwear good
enough for automobiling; but that
was in the dark ages when old clothes
were considered the proper regalia
for "going camping" The feet are
really very much in evidence, in au-
tomobiling. They show conspicuous
ly when one aliGhts from the car,
and If one strolls about at all in the
motor, coat and rather short tailored
skirt beneath, they cannot escape at
tention. Most women wear buttoned
walking boots with the ordinary mo-
tor costume for such boots look best
with this tailored type of costume.
The heels may be high or low, curved
or straight, and the buttoned tops
may be of dull kid, of dainty light
toned suede or of black cloth; but
the toes must have the new, long
cut which gives slenderness and "a
certain aristocracy to the foot.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

to a September bride-to-be by rel
ative just back from Paris, and with
the brown morocco handbag Travelled
an adorable brown lansdowne and
chiffon tea frock with a dash of red
and gold in the sash -girdle.
Matching the costume with the
handbag is favorite trick of Paris
couturiers Frequently the box con-
tanning the finished costume, contains
also just the correct handbag to
carry off its style. or course the
handbag adds appreciably to the bill
but what of that? illustrated is
new velvet tailleur from Martial
Armand matched by a handbag Of
velvet in the same shade-dark. rich
green. The hat, also, is of green vel
vet with black ribbon trimming. The
coat Is frightened with waistcoat
Of Futurist silk, gold braid and but
tons and the skirt is draped up to
show buttoned walking boot.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

edge, and the sleeve, cut from the
bias of the material is in raglan
shape, running up into the shoulder
a most effective manner of combin-
ing the stripings. A null and en-
broidery jabot, drawn out over the
coat gives dainty neck finish. This
coat, worn at recent fashionable
horseshow by debutante-to-b be of
next season, accompanied on this oc-
casion separate skirt of serge worn
with lace blouse. Long wristed
gloves of embroidered silk met the
elbow sleeves of the blouse and the
bonnet was covered and trimmed
with post impressionist silk piped in
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

~
II lect new motor coat has two
A, considerations in mind; one,
that 1t must feel .comforta BILE
while she rides: the other that it
must look stunning when she enters
restaurant. For the stop blythe
pick-me-up Is an important part of
the motor spin and cheerless trip
has been the one during which the
car did not stand for at least half an
hour before some lively hostelry.
This restaurant part of the question
compllcates the selection of motor
wear considerably. Any old coat
looks well enough, buried under furs.
veil and the rugs of the tonneau: but
the promenade down the carpeted
aisle of a fashionable dining place is
quite another matter. This is where
ones expensive motor togs bespeak
themselves-and is usually the raison
d'etre of their expensiveness
The very smartest motor coats this
season are the simple. rather man
nsh ones of new wooden material
AiNH "a esSioiy iA5iib anu sOll YET dS
warm as woolen stuff can be. Par
ticularly swa Sger are mustard col
ored coats in this soft, light material
and the mustard hued coat is really
delightful against wintry back
ground--much more pleasing than
the slate gray which always has a
bleak suggestion and inevitably makes
its wearer's nose look pink. A mus
tard colored coat in mind at the mo-
ment was seen at Lenox last week.
Notable were the loose, boxy lines Of
this coat which had not a suggestion
of the clinging effect at the knees
SO long q feature of feminine wraps.
1t hung free and clear from the
shoulders and had enormous arm
holes in which were set wing sleeves
that tapered into close cuff. A slot
seam ran down the back of the coat
and short belt sections running back
from the wing sleeves, met at the CEN
ter, over this slot seam. The coat
was accompanied by an adorable mo-
tor bonnet of brown velvet with. a
pert little visor brim of brown satin
and the chiffon veil, turned back over
the bonnet as the pretty wearer
uoiluCu iicl SiONCo Ou tilc NcTdnutt,
was in shaded tones of yellow.
Yellow Motor Obscession This Fall.
Where the notion came from. no.
body seems to be able to tell but
amber is the motor color now. BY
amber is meant yellow of almost any
shade from buff to burnt onion. In
Paris they are positively dyeing er-
mine and white fox pelts to achieve
amber fur motor hats. Think of dive
ing ermine yellow! And all the tawny
furs like leopard, fitch. jaguar and
tiger are in great demand for trim
ming motor coats and wraps Am
ber colored chiffon wells are of course
the thing and these floating wells in
sunshine's own hue, give>a bright and
gay appearance to flying automobiles
on dreary day.
There are also yellow hoods for
rainy days, made of an entirely new
rubber tissue called chiffon rubber
and adding still another fabric to the
elan OF the chiffon titled stuffs. This
new rubber is verify almost as trans.
parent as chiffon itself and is like
wise as soft and delicate in texture.
1t is made up into charmingly be-.
coming motor bonnets which come in
blue rose, violet, amber. taupe ana
various other desirable colors. Such
. bonnet may be folded W and
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07
FASHIONABLE scARFs.

q TLI<EN scarfs are an important
accessory in the wardrobe of the
- fashionable woman. She wears
one when descending to the garden in
the cool of the evening, choosing for
this purpose the sheer silk mousse
line. When going to the party or the
dance, she covers her head with a
spangled scarf crossed over her
breast. after the fashion of the an
clients, which later, sliding from her
shoulders, sparl1les in the light.
When walking, she wears the tulles
de malines, through which her COW
cred shoulders can be seen, or those
richly embossed sheer velvets which
give wonderful reflections, and man
ties of silk volle with swansdown or
marabout. Persian. MARITIME, and
Pompadour flowers are embroidered
or printed in live and brilliant colors
on some of these scarfs, which are
draped and gathered in a thousand
different ways
There has never been a greater
abundance OF sheer and supple ma
terials ranging from cobweb gauzes
to more solid materials, all suitable
TO be utilized in the making of scarfs.
The embroideries and printings fre-
quently show wonderful combinations
of red and yellow. also purple, orange
and red. as well as yellow, green. and
pink, each combination put together
In a most marvellous way. These
scarfs vary in width from the long
narrow streamers to broad shawl
widths which cover the shoulders and
head, and drape down the back al
most TO the feet.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

picture with one Of the clinging,
draped costumes of today. The mod
ern handbag, like the modern tall
ored suit, is fancful-if not a
freakish affair. 1t is made of rich
fine fabrics and its cost is high be-
cause it is the custom-and the fash
ion-now to pay high prices for
everything-or so it seems to the dis
tressed shopper, who concerns herself
not at all with questions of the tar
iff and general economics. AT any
rate, with everything else sky-high in
cost, how odd 1t would seem to pick
up a usable handbag at the modest
dollar price one used to pay? The
handbag would not be convincing.
one would not be quite certain it was
all a handbag should be.
Leather bags are decidedly more
modish than fabric affairs, which is
one reason for high prices, for leath-
er of the fine. soft sort of which.
only, smart handbags may be built, is
a costly material. and a sizable reti-
cule of suede or buffed seal will cost
many times the price of the same
model done in tapestry or MORE silk
on the same frame. Fabric bags will
be used this season with theatre and
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07
Notes and Novelties

nav coat and soft felt hat. Glow
and smart buttoned boots will give
such costume correct style when a
short trip must be made through city
streets.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

0EEPING up with handbags"
RA sighed the girl with nothng-a-
VI year, takes a deal of scheming
y Y and cOntriVing = for really
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

~ IL woman who sets forth to se-
lect new motor coat has two
~, considerations in mind; one,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1913-09-07

Lace theatre caps which are out Of
style can be turned into charming
bags by running cords and tassels in
where the elastic was.
Albuquerque evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1911-1914, 1913-12-24
PROGRESS IN PORTO RICO IN 1918


When our troops landed In Porto
Rico &C. 1888 that island was practi-
cally unknown 20 the American pub
lie and al that time the most opti-
mistic could not have anticipated the
spontaneous development which has
actually taken place in the last fiji
teen years. This development, indus
rial. educational ana otherwise ~
shown In an interesting volume Issued
by the bureau OF insular affairs con-
tanning the reports OF the governor
and other officials for the fiscal year
1913.
This report shows that since 1901
the total external commerce of the
island has increased some five-fold,
~ round numbers the exports grow
ing from eight and "A half millions to
40 millions. the imports from less
than nine 10 nearly 81 millions; while
the balance OF trade. adverse In 1901
10y small amount Is now more than
II millions annually In its favor. The
island during tho last year imported
American merchandise at the rate uf
more than 100000 for each working
day,
Although sugar amounted 10 more
than half the total exports. or S26,-
GIBBS. an increase made possible on
! iy by the influx of American capital
and machinery together with the eN-
ceptlonally favorable underlying con-
ditions. more interest attaches 90 the
fact that Porto Rican coffee, Of whose
excellence every native H. proud, has
shown proportlonately more rapid
| Increase than sugar during tho last
| five years. the exports for 1913 being
SS.b1t,3t6, an increase 81 % per cent
over the preceding year. Proof that
the foundation of diversified agri-
culture has been laid IS found in the
Increase Of oranges. pineapples, grape
! fruit and other fruit from a total at
| sos, sol in 1901 to s2.a77,762 In 1919
and s3.120.9i9 last year
Speaking of the closing year Of his
administration. Governor Cotton Says
/ Il has been one of marked develop
ment. with industries more productive
! than ever before aud willing labor
/ closely employed under Improving
conditions.
II Il stated that In 1898 there was
hat one building iu the islands cspe-
I cially erected for school purposes. the
total enrolment in the public schools
was but $4,000, and so per cent of
the entire population was unable Q,
read or write million souls with
this high percentage OF ililteraCy were
domlcilod within $500 square miles
|u population more dense than that OF
AIRY part OF the United States except
o few manufacturing districts
Instead of one school house erected
FOR that purpose, there are today i0'
braded school buildings many ol
which compare fayorably with th'
better class ~ school buildings la the
cities Of the United States. and 26l
rural school buildings. Tho schoo
enrolment has Increased to iGt.7S'
Albuquerque evening herald. [volume] (Albuquerque, New Mexico) 1911-1914, 1913-12-24

Tucumcari. n. ~. Dec. ga force
OF men has been SGT to work on the
new irrigation dam on the Goldenberg
farm near TucumcarL which VIII be
when completed one Of the most Inn
lportant private irrigation enterprises
In the eastern part OF the state and
will reclaim a large acreage Of fine
and fertile land.
The dam, which win be constructed
entirely OF red clay will be, when
completed. $50 feet long with a
height averaging twenty feet II viii
be nearly forty feet broad az the
base and sloping gradually toward
the top to a width OF four feet. q
IL thought that the filling viii be
completed by the early spring al
though sufficient Will have been ac-
compilshed within the next few weeks
to begin the storage of any rain o.
snow water that may fail.
The dam is the second TO be built
by MIR. Goldenberg at the farm. which
ls located two miles northeast OF Tu-
cumcari along the east side OF the
Dawson railway track. The first was
constructed over n year ago and ~
only One-third az long as the new one.
The two will store, Il 10 claimed. near
~ four hundred acre feet Of water.
this being collected both from the
storm waters OF the surrounding hills
and from the city sewer water which
has first flowed through sediment
tanks
MIR. Goldcnberg will have planted
the coming year. $50 acres Of alfalfa.
sixty Of which Il already In and doing
well and from which was cut during
the last year three crops of hay
which netted n good Income. after
two-ycar loss by experimentation with
other hay crops. During the late
fall after cutting the last time, young
calves were put on the stubble OF this
sixty acres already set out, and fed
for several months, fattening Ia good
shape Il Is said without appreciable
effect on the growth the young alfal-
IA more than keeping up with what
was eaten by the herd. Mr. Golden
berg reports that there Is yet consid-
cradle growing hay In this field de-
spite the cold weather OF the last
week.
The intention IL TO use the entire
crop OF next year for the feeding OF
beef and dairy stock for the market
and to this end. considerable help
! Is being contracted fer. In such an
event the effect on the Tuoumcari
market will he great and II sure to
attract lot of attention To the city as
a cattle market.
The Quay County Development as
ISOLATION has filed Incorporation pa
pors with the corporation commits
sion. George Mindeman Of Endce ~