Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-04-20

been q desire on the part VI
women to adopt some of the newest GUS
and designs merely because they were eA-
elusive or because they represented the
new movement in dress.
The skirt that was slashed Tor Re"
inches at the ankle, the narrow SHIFT
which was a definite departure from the
full one the long, wrinkled, tight sleeve
he lowered armholes and the N-shaped
opening at the neck all represented a
novelty and were therefore taken up more
or less by women who dress according to
the dictates of the day.
:: <
Mind YOU. these are not the women
who carry any fashion to an absurd
length: they stop just short of an ex-
IRENE: and they adopt these novelties be-
cause they have an attractive pleasure
about them of modernity. But this con-
dition was changed by the wholesale
making of gowns that displayed these
features.
II was ali very Wei to wear them when
they were not caricatured. but when the
BUYERS and wholesalers of every large
city were as full of them as the fashion
able streets, and shops included them IN
almost every gown sold above SO, then a
large number of women became very tired
of all these features and decided not TO
wear them
1t is for this reason that one Will see
more conservatism of dress among the
women with taste this spring than mas
been seen for two years. There is not
the slightest promise of return to the
fashions of four years ago.
Narrow skirts and all the other Tea
lures will remain. but the eccentric meth
DDS of arranging drapery. slashes ana
openings will be left for the multitude
and avoided by the minority. In this
there is much hope.
II would be rather dreadful thing to
see all the American women dressed ac-
cording to the most extreme standards
set this season; it would be also blow
to see the ugly fashions of a few years
ago return to favor, for the figures of to-
day would not stand them, but when
there is a growing artistic feeling for
handling the new in graceful and re-
fined way. then we shall probably see the
mass of women Well dressed
Women are far more concerned over
lack of collars as soon the weather
turns warm than they are during the win
ter months, when heavy furs are apt to
cover whatever neck arrangements they
have.
Our climate demands as much comfort
mer season as a woman can afford to al
low herself and not look entirely ,disor-
dered, and therefore the question of the
open neck. Will it be worn again?
The answer is that ii will be almost
universal and even when a stock * worn
with IL the N-Shaped opening is made en-
phatic by wide rolling collar OF some
material. One must always look collar
less That is the verdict of the day
II is not time TO cover up the skin of
the shoulders and neck, and even the
bodiceS of the day more transparent
than ever, even for the everyday hours
The only kind of thick collar that is per-
mtted is the Beau Brummel affair of
black satin wrapped around the neck and
topped with faring points of white mus
lin or organde.
This is worn with the popular riding
shirt which is made for those who go in
for the trade of spOrtswomen, and il has
finely pleated bosom of soft fabric
plain sleeves. turnover cuffs and = deep
yoke a the back.
Barring this one change from the nor
NAL. all the other collars of the ason
are transparent. the more the better.
Even ON the most elaborate gowns made
OF satin or chiffon cloth there is a rolling
collar to outline the V-shaped opening
and on all kinds of shirt waists and
blouseS this effect predominateS
Women appear on the streets with their
necks uncovered who would never permit
them to be SO in the house decade ago
There are so many ways of making this
style becoming that it has been adopted
in a wholesale fashion by women of all
ages.
II the large collar is raised high at the
back and is not too fiat against the neck
in front and the veil is folded on the neck
under the chin and snusly pinned at the