davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

THE newest coats give evidence
 of the Directoire influence and
 show these high rolled-over collars and deep cuffs. This one is exceedingly smart and can be made with either cutaway or straight fronts. with either plain or belted back, but the plain back and cutaway fronts mean the greater distinction Coats of this kind will be made with skirts to match and of contrasting material in equal numbers. Plain cloth with striped or checked is promised great vogue. For the early season, coats of silk will be worn over wool material. The lines are the smartest possible and the coat eminently chic while by no means difficult to make. There are shoulder darts in the front that give roundness to the bust and only
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

TT7HE single coat with
 cutaway fronts and longer back
 is a very smart one, eminently attractive and generally becoming. Here is a model that can be made in that way or with straight fronts and which is adapted to all the seasonable suitings. The model can be used for velvet to be adapted to more dressy occasions and it can be used for. all the handsomer as well as the simpler ma- terials. Contrasts as well as entire costumes are in vogue and the coat made of velvet for wear over a silk or wool skirt, would be handsome. Seams that extend to the shoulders give slender becoming lines and the sleeves arc the new ones without full- ness at the shoulders.
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17
By MAY MANTON

tHE belted coat is essentially smart and
 this one (fgure 3 with its elongated
 waist and broad band suggestive of the Balkan idea IS youthful in style that it is peculiarly well adapted to young girls and to small women. The garment is smart one, yet absolutely simple. It Is the easiest in the world to fit and the home dressmaker will find it boon- The body portion is made with only shoulder and under-arm seams and is gathered at the lower edge. The pepum is perfectly smooth and the belt conceals the joining of the two. The coat is in the height of style both with skirt to match, making an entire costume and made from silk or other seasonable material to be worn over a contrasting skirt.
 W1AlsTcoATs are conspicuous in ar-
 w tumn costumes and the materials
 shown for them so beautiful that they will take important place. Here is coat (fgure 4 that includes rather wide waist coat that can be either with or without the belt. It is a simple garment and by no means difficult but since the collar can be made in ways and the sleeves longer or shorter 1t is sus Ceptible of a good deal of variation One of the suggestions made is for plain colored material trimmed with striped silk and velvet; another shows checked material trimmed with plain. Both excellent and there are many other beautiful materials appropriate for waistcoats to be found at every turn. A coat of wool velours with the trimming of moire silk would make an exceedingly beautiful effect. One oi the pebble finished cheviots would be handsome with trimming of broadcloth or eponge is pretty with broadcloth trimming, this last being greatly in vogue for uses of the sort while the rough cloths seem be preferred for the costume itself. For the silk suit, brocade makes a handsome vest. There seems to be offered a limitless number of appropriate and handsome fabrics, both silk and wool. We to combinations throughout the autumn and the coat of pIains material over a skirt of striped which reappears in the trimming is smart.
 There is no doubt the vogue of the walking skirt that shows just a little drapery. The newest ones are draped at the front and this one gives long, unbroken lines at the back that provides slenderness of effect. Some like the high waist line, others prefer the natural and either can be used for both are smart. Also the front edges be made straight or curved as each wearer may like There are only two seams, the front and back edges being Tapped.
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

NHE next figure shows a coat with \ the fronts buttoned over while
 the collar is turned down over the shoulders. It can also be made up in directorie style as shown in the small view underneath. The means by which the changes can be produced are very simple, but the two effects, never theless, are distinctly different. In the illustration serge is made with velvet trimming. Coats of this kind are made with skirts to match and also velvet, silk and the like to be worn over different materials.
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

7965 Cutaway Coat, 34 to A bust. 1884 Draped One-Piece Skirt. p to 30
 waist. 7o5I Cutaway Coat, 34 to 42 bust. 1910 Three-Piece Plated Skirt, 22 to
 g waist 7o53 Be1ted Coat for Misses and Small Women, IA, I6 and IS years. 7o21 Two-Piece or Three-Piece Skirt for Misses and Small Women, I4, I6
 and IS years. 7o6I Cutaway Coat with Waistcoat.
 34 to 40 bust. 7ooI Four-Piece Skirt, 22 to 30 waist. 7566 Semi-Fitted Coat with Robes pierre Collar, 34 to 4o bust. 7758 Cutaway Coat, 34 to 42 bust. 76I5 Cutaway Coat, 34 to 42 bust. 7659 Single Breasted Coat, ,36 to 46 bust.
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

TEE coats of the spring are really
 fascinating. They are simple in
 general effect yet they show great many little touches that are ex- cecdingly smart and even distinctive. The second coat includes a back that
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

shoulder and under-arm seams arc needed. The collar requires merely an interliInng of good quality canvas to make it a success. This coat is made of broadcioth with only stitched edges but binding of braid is to be much used this season and is exceed ingly handsome on cloth as on other suitings. Made with straight front edges and with either plain or belted back, the coat becomes slightly more practical. but there is a distinction and fascination in the cutaHay fronts that render them desirable.
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

WOULD anybody find prettier. smarter coat than the one here illustrated
 (hgure D for the autumn suit? The abruptly cutaway fronts and the slightly elongated back give beautiful becoming lines The narrow Tuxedo collar and the rolled-over cuffs mean real distinction. Since there IS only one button, it can be made handsome without undue cost and the buttons of the season are in themselves study Besides being smart and becoming the coat is easy to make and that fact Is appealing. The straight lines give slenderness. There is a tendency toward the of rough and velvet finished fabrics for fall and among the new suitings, wool velours, both plain and striped takes a prominent place. Wool eponge Is to be much worn too and, for handsome suits silk Is greatly liked, molre finished ribbed and the poplin wearers that have become such an established favorite.
 No feature of the season is more remarkable than the way in which one-piece skirts are handled. Most effective draperies are pro- duced with a single strip of fabric, and almost infinite variations This one Is exceptionally becoming and attractive, yet it means almost no labor for the making There Is only one piece of material with the plaits laid that they give the graceful folds and lines and the edges overlapped at the front. The finish can be made at the high or natural waist line, liked or can be stitched to the desired depth. The front edges can also be curved in this instance made perfectly straight
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

TIGURE shows costume that would be Y handsome developed in almost any sea
 sonabe suiting. Wool velours suggests itself almost immediately because 1t is so hand some and Is to be much used but there are a great many cloths and suitings of lighter weight and silks to have great vogue, although wool materials with velvet finish make one of the important novelties. This costume shows an extremely smart coat with a suggestion of the Empire effect and a little waistcoat.
 The skirt which includes a few pIaits Is very and very smart. It allows of walking with comfort yet it preserves the fashionable straight lines. Nothing better could be found either for the autumn suit or for the indoor gown of light weight wool or silk. A pretty feature Is the pointed belt arranged over the high waist line There are three gores, the back gore being laid in plaits. The front gores are lapped the other above a plaited panel. Such skirt is easy to make while it is insthe very height of style. In the illustration. wool eponge is effectively trimmed with buttons.
Arizona republican., 1913-09-17

but there are silk suitings without number and there is generous oppor- tunity offered for the exercise of taste and discretion.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
GAMBLERS
FINED SECOND TIME

If the four alleged gamblers caught
in the raid of the Round-up pool hall
Wednesday night thought to escape
further penalty by forfeiting their bail
of $25 each yesterday morning by
non-appearance in court they were
mistaken for the councilmen who par
ticipated in the raid was not disposed
to let them off thus easily. Warrants
were issued commanding them to ap-
pear in court this morning and they
were sentenced by Judge FitZ Gerald
to pay fines of SIS each or spend 81
days in Jail. The bail money was ap-
piled on the fine.
Jess Sailing, Ralph Hill and John
Skogland completed the payment OF
their fines but Bert Livermore went
to Jail. This afternoon he Is making
an attempt to raise the money. The
fifth member of the gambling party,
E. B. Jamison, who could not appear
in court yesterday because OF his alb
sence from the city, was also fined
SIS which he paid
With the 500 which ]. Mosier.
proprietor of the pool hall, paid and
the $25 forfeited by Livermore, the
total amount of money paid into the
city treasury as result of the raid is
$425.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
UMATILLA COUNTY TEACHERS TO
HOLD SEPARATE INSTITUTE; mot
TO ENTER {. OREGON ASSOCIATION

Though they feel kindly disposed
toward the Eastern Oregon Teachers
association from which they with
drew last year the Umatilla county
teachers will not re-enter the organi-
Zation at the present time but will
hold their institute separately. This
was the decision reached this morning
at the meeting of the school super
intendents and principals of the county
after considerable discussion. The
county institute will be held next fall
rather than this spring because of
the inconvenience which a spring con-
vention will entail.
There are twenty heads of schools
in attendance at the meeting at the
court house today and many school
matters and problems are being dis
cussed. one of the matters receiving
considerable attention is that of slim
ulating the industrial work in the
schools by an exhibition of industrial
products either at the annual fair or
at special OCCASION. A committee
was appointed this morning to decide
upon the course to follow and will re-
pert this afternoon.
Another action which will probably
be taken is to make uniform require
ments to govern all schools in athletic
contests between the schools.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
UNWISE TO FREE
lIFIL|P|NOS NOW
TAFT OPPOSES THE PLAN
would be dangerous ana Ill Con-
sidered'' He Says In Newspaper Ar
tcle--Process to Fit Island for Self
Government Is Slow-Adyises Fol.
lowing NIcKinley's Plan.

New York, March 1.-Insisting that
any suggestion toward the independ-
ence of the Philippines is ''unwise.
dangerous, i'll considered and inadvis-
able" President Taft in an article in
the New York Tribune today strongly
opposes the freedom of the Filipinos.
Il am glad" the president said ito
make one more appeal for our little
brown brother. 1t is not moe pos
sible to contemplate a proposition to
grant independence to the Philippines
now or at any specified time without
a suspicion of selfish desire to es,
cape the responsibility. than to con-
template the conduct of father who
imposes like responsibility on his
son without distrust."
The article reviews at great length
the experiences of the Philippines and
analyzes the population and insists
that the process of preparing the ma
tives for self government is slow.
The article concludes: with all
sincerity and with malice toward none
with no partisan bias and with only
the honor of the United States and
the welfare of the Filipino people at
heart, | appeal to my successor and
to those who cherish fond hopes for
the success of his administration, and
to the American people. to repudiate
this il-advised proposal and to carry
on in the future, if possible with more
skill than in the past that wise poll
icy for the Philippines which was
conceived by William Mckinley"
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01

The problem Of the Standardization
of the work in the rural schools and
that of introducing picture work in
all the schools are also up for dis
cussion. The meeting is proving very
Interesting and helpful though the
time allotted is hardly long enough to
permit of all being done that is de-
sired
Those in attendance at the meeting
are County School Superintendent l.
f. Young, Supervisor Albert f. White
of Milton. Supervisor ]. A. Yeager OF
Hermiston, Supt. ]. S. Landers and
Principal A. c. Hampton of Pendle-
ton, Supt. Howard W. Drew and Prin.
Charles A. Guerne of Athena, Prin.
w. H. Musselman of Freewater, Prin.
Elizabeth Tonkin of Pilot Rock. Prin.
NJ. S. Pate Of Milton. Prin. Joe. o. Da-
Wis of Weston, Prin. Stanley Wright
of Fruitvale. Prin. B. T. Youel of
Hermiston. Prin. F. d. Carruth of
Stanfield, Prin. Kyle Mcdaniel OF Ad-
ans, Prin. ]. A. Cavanaugh of Vim
cent, Prin. +. X. Nordhoff of Fern
dale. Prin. L. w. Keeler of Echo.
Prin. w. w. Green of Tum- a-lum
school. and Prin. j. ID. Harrah of Dist
rict 81 above Milton. C. o. Richard
son, postmaster at Adams Is also In
attendance.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
WILSON'S CABINET

Washington, March 1.-President-
elect Wilson's cabinet will contain the
following members, according to in
formation from high authority receiv-
ed at the Washington bureau of the
Portland Journaf:
Secretary of State-W. j. Bryan of
Nebraska.
Secretary of Treasury-William j.
McAdOO of New York.
Attorney General. c. Mickey
nOlds.
Secretary of War-George W. Goe-
thals of New York.
Secretary of Navy-JOsephus Dam
iels of North Carolina.
Postmaster General-A. 6. Burleson
of Texas.
Secretary of Interior-E. w. Norris
OF Montana
Secretary of Commerce-LOuis ID.
Brandeis OF Massachusetts.
Secretary of Labor-William b
Wilson of Pennsylvania.
Secretary OF Agriculture-NOI
named yet.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
FOREST RESERVE OREGON WILL
SECURE FROM GOVERNMENT WILL
Be WORTH MILLION TO STATE

an educational standpoint, being used
in connection with the course in for
estry at the agricultural college.
Coyote Law Amended.
Mr.. Smythe also calls attention to
the fact the scalp bounty law has been
improved by an amendment. Here
after a coyote hunter will not have to
cut the scalp from the coyote hide.
He will send the entire hide to the
office Of the county clerk. The clerk
will then stamp the hide and punch
three holes in the same to mark It.
1t Is then returned to the hunter who
can sell it. 1t is said the hunter will
be able to get from so cents to $3.50
more for the hide with the head at
tached Therefore coyote hunting will
become more profitable business and
yet the state will pay out no more as
bounty. The amendment to the
coyote bounty law also provides that
a hunter may send his hides to the
county clerk by another party, under
certain restrictions.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01

Washington, Mar. THAT a mon
ey trust does exist and that it's pow
ers should be curbed by stringent
federal regulations as to the conduct
of national banks, clearing houses
and stock exchanges were the find
ings of the house money trust COM
mittee set forth in the majority re-
port of its Investigations filed in the
house late yesterday.
The report. signed by Chairman
Pujo and the six other democratic
members of the subcommittee which
conducted the money trust probe, was
accompanied by two bills, one to reg
ulate stock exchanges through for
bidding the mails to exchanges which
do not comply with federal regulations
and the other to regulate clearing
house associations through forbidding
national banks to join such associa-
tions unless federal regulations are
observed
In the latter bill, proposed as an
amendment to the national banking
act, the conduct of national bank of
ficers and directors is closely restrict
ed.
On the question of the existence of
a money trust, the report is specific
and detailed.
at would of course be absurd"
said the report, "to suggest that con-
troll of the bulk of widely distributed
wealth of a great nation can be cor
rallied by any set of men. If that is
what is meant by gentlemen who deny
the existence of a money trust, your
committee agrees with them. 1t is
not, however, necessary that a group
of men shall control directly the small
savings in the banks nor the scatter
ed resources of the country in order
to monopolize the great financial tran
sactions or to be able to dictate cred
its to be extended or withheld from
business enterprises"
The great bank or banker. with ac-
cess to the main springs of the con-
centrated resources of other peoples
money, the report declares. can han
die the vast issues of securities now
demanded by the commercial and in
terna development of the country,
but the bank reserve system, 1t Is
further contended, concentrates a
large part of tho funds of the small
er banks in New York, where group
of men have strengthened their inter
est in the various banking institutions
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01

The state forest that Oregon will Sc
cure as q result of the legislation ad-
opted by the legislature at the in
stance of Governor West will be worth
a million dollars to Oregon. This Is
the view of Dan P. Smythe, member
of the forestry board who returned
yesterday from Salem after having
been down for a week to watch the
wheels of the legislature turn round.
According to Smythe most Of the
land the state trades to the govern
ment for the Santiam reserve timber
was of but little value. This is nat
ural inasmuch as the land would have
been taken before by private purch-
asers had it been of great value. Fur
thermore the land was scattered and
often valueless from the fact Of be-
ing isolated in forest reserves.
Therefore from business stand
point the state forest will be a good
thing and the governor is being given
much credit for working up the plan.
The forest will also be of value from
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
GIBBONS NOT IN
FAVOR OF SUFFRAGE

Baltimore, Nd, March IA flat
denial that he favors woman suffrage,
or applauded the march of General
Rosalia Jones and her army on the
way to Washington, was made by
Cardinal Gibbons today. In fact the
prelate said he was sure the hike had
not helped the suffrage cause.
II am not in favor of suffrage
now" said the Cardinal, "ani was not
favorable to it when 1 received the
marchers here. / did not say they re-
minded me of Joan of Arc, nor did
compare their sacrifices with hers. 1t
seems they have let it he understood
that l promised to urge congress to
hear their plea, but l did not"
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01

New York, Mar. Seventy five
thousand clothing workers, who
struck December 20, resumed work
today, the unions having compromis-
ed the shop wage demand, but the
men still demand better sanitary con-
ditions and the abolition of sweat
shops.
The employers, while conducting
open shops, promised not to discrim-
mate against the strikers. Court ac-
tions will be dropped as a result of
the settlement The question of the
hours of labor will be arbitrated
While some factories concerned will
not reopen until Monday, all will work
overtime until Easter to catch up with
the enormous accumulation of orders.
Boston, Mar. sympathy for the
striking mems garment makers, nine
thousand members of the ladies' gar
ment workers union have walked out.
The clothing industry here is badly
crippled. The men demand improved
conditions shorter hours and a min
imum salary of six dollars a week.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
HIGHER WAGES WILL
BE ASKED FOR GIRLS

Chicago. Mar. In a determines
attempt to force a payment of wages
to working girls in Chicago which
would not be so low as to force them
to prostitution in order to live the
white slave" committee of the state
senate will examine the heads of
Chicago department stores and other
big employers. A summons was or
dered today for these employers by
Lieutenant Governor O'Hara. He
said: Testimony so far adduced by
the states inquiry shows conclusive
ly that the great cause which sends
girls to ruin is starvation wages
These department store heads must
testify even il each is worth ten mil
lion dollars"
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
9 BELIEVED DEAD
IN OMAHA FIRE

Omaha. Neb., Mar. Mot more
than nine persons perished in the
burning Dewey Hotel. according to a
statement by City Commissioner Ku-
gel. No additional bodies were To-
Gated up to noon.
The body of woman. burned crisp
was recovered from the ruins this
morning and makes the known total
six dead. Estimates of those believed
to be buried in the ruins still run
from five to twenty. The only marks
of Identification on the body were
earrings and portions of a fur coat.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01

Washington, March with Presi-
lent-elect Wilson slated to arrive Mon
day afternoon, Washington is arrang-
ing the final furbelows of the inaug-
uration dress. A gaudy but harmoni-
Gus color scheme has turned Pennsyl-
vania avenue into carnival thorough
fare, while most of the public build
ings and residences are hidden be-
hind pillows of flags and streamers.
Cavalrymen, infantrymen and ca
det companies are arriving in numbers
fast equalling the civilian population.
The country is pouring its prominent
men and women into the capital.
The suffrage parade Monday prom
ises to vie with the inauguration spec
tacle.
Suffragists at Tea.
Clad In feminine finery, fingers
manicured and hair bewitchingly
dressed, the suffragettes who march
ed from New York to Washington
were guests of General" Jones at tea
this afternoon. The party plans to
call on President Taft later in the
day.
The parade Of the women naturally
will be distinctly feminine in its
makeup and will include tiny maids
who hope some day to vote as we'll as
staid matrons who already have ex-
ercised the privileges of voting many
times in different suffrage states.
Marching clubs and riding clubs,
smartly uniformed will form line
that will be bright with colors, waving
American and suffragette flags. The
troops of the New Jersey cavalry will
escort Wilson to the Shoreham Ho-
tel upon his arrival.
Bryan, who arrives Monday, will al
80 be given a hearty reception.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
WOMEN STREET ORGAN
PLAYERS ARE MOBBED

London, Eng, Mar. Militant
suffrage'tes started "self denial"
week today to raise funds for the suf-
frggette cause. They are playing
barrel organs in the streets. selling
souvenirs, candy and pictures to add
to the fund. Two organ players were
mobbed at Shaftsburv avenue and the
instruments demolished.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
ALDERMAN CREATES
SENSATION WITH SPEECH

Philadelphia, Mar Professor L.
r. Alderman, state school superin-
tendent of oregon, created a sensation
here when in an address before the
National Education Conference, he
declared $4,000 American girls are
going wrong because parents and
teachers do not cooperate.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1913-03-01
STRIKERS TESTIFY BEFORE
INVESTIGATING COMMITTEE

Akron, Ohio, Mar. Thirty strik-
ers from the ranks of those out to en-
force the demand for better pay and
working conditions in the big rubber
mills, testified before the legislative
committee which Is probing the cause
of the strike. Chairman Green threat
ems to subpoena the books of the big
gest factories. The committee will
examine the officials on Monday.