Norwich bulletin., 1913-02-22
THE kNAck OF MAKING oAR-
 MENTs.

1 Dear Editor and Sisters. To do any4hinS at ell with success in dress making you must have first a correct pattern Most of ~sthe patterns that you buy, are q little full at the neck, or high up under the arm. You will most always notice when cutting out very much from under the arm, it leaves 2 fuilness at the back between the under-arm seam and shoulder. To prevent this, when cutting out the garment, lay plea1 or rather take up 2 small gore in the pattern first. and fullness at the neck. lay a small fold in front, beginning at the top. and |1apering down about half way to the waist line.
 casting, begin at the lefthand, work ing towards the right and sec how much easier 1t is. and more perfect stitches.
 skirt to hang, take a skirt that is just right in length, measure each
 seam. turn up the hem with pins, don
 the skirt. and stand a looking glass on the floor. up against the side of the room, and you can see it to perfection If any alteration Is needed you remove. the pins and correct it right there; and if braid is to be put on the bottom than the skzrt) along the very bottom edge; take out the pins. trim off 50 the hem will be even width all around; take the braid ba.stei on to the hem part with the lower edge of braid on. Always press the heIns and seams good by dampening little In fact. everything should be pressed to have a finished appeafance.
 Discarded hirt-waistas make rood slips with a, little alteration, and by removing the sleeves and looSening the neck some make good corset cov- CTS.
 When making anything new there are most always little left over. If you have piece square turn corner ways, out off one corner to make wide enough for the top, put on a. binding. with a little fli1ness. use the piece cut off for a pocket, and finish you wish, and you will have q pretty apron for most any use. Other styles and shapes can be cut from such pieces. In sewing any garment where there are gathers to be sewed in, always divide both pieces in halves, and guar ters, when possible; fasten the gath CTS. on to the plain piece and fasten one end and draw up the thread even and fasten secugely, or wind around a pin: and by all means hold the full part towards you: and when sewing on lace or anything you wish to full a little always hold the part to be fuiled towards you
 If you have more than one skirt of the same color nearly worn, you can most always gst one good one out o4
  dresses in the same way. In fact. there are numerous ways one can work over such Things with little forethought and time
 In making the common straight apron have more gathers In the front than anywhere else, and they will lay down better and not draw up, as you quite often see them do.
 To make a tailored jacket. buy c pattern one size larger than you wear, for a waist; be sure and cut every piece the same way of the goods, for remember whether there is g visible up and down or not there always is one in the nap cut every piece just like the pattern marking and clipping every notch; by the directions inter line the goods with crfnolfne; haste these two together and try on risnt side out. It will be necessary to have some one to fit 1t bo you. Over the interlining fit a piece of butchers canvass about inches wide up and down the front, and across the back of neck; face back the fronts with the goods on the wrong side over the canvass If there is to be a collar and cuffs line with the canvass and face the goods, now sew the collar to the neck matching every notch, inter line the sleeves with crinoafne sew up the sleeves and if no cuff Is used face up with the canvass about Inches around the wrist; now face the bottom with the goods; sew up the lining and sew to the sleeve; hem the bottom sew sleeve Into the jacket lining and all, turn up hem around the bottom of jacket and stitch once or twice all around This can be done easier be-
 fore the sleeves are sewed in. Now the jacket is all done bat lining. Sew up the lining, all but the under-arrn and shoulder seams; baste the back on all around being careful to keep 1t smooth; but kold rather tight length wise; haste on the fronts, the extreme front only just over the edge of the facing; overlap the fronts onto the back, under the arm and on shoulder hem neatly all around and press. Be
 sure and press open the seams of the
 jacket and lining before putting to- gether; and collar and cuffs before putting on; with buttons and button holes you have a nice looking jacket, Of your own make; and with time and care you can make them look neat One of my nottoes is: What IS worth doing at all, is worth doing welI.'' AUNTYs Wiliii1fahuc'