davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06

the arm can be moved more freely than
with the oid-fashioncd kimono while IN"
long shoulder line is preserved quite a.
successfully as with the kimolo type.
The Gun is simulated with cordluss OF the
crepe and is trimmed with a close row OF
small buttons The coat is simplicity H.
self. but the colorins is most effective and
Yet sufficiently neutral TO allow II 10 be
worn with a gown Of almost any shade.
Another wrap Of broch6 epousc IS more
suggestive OF the lines exploited in the
garments for the older generation. The
collar of white satin is extended 10 the
waist line. very much as the shawl col
lars have been for the last two or three
years and the garment Is fastened "a this
point by cordinSs OF the satin The drap-
ings are held I'm 10y shaped band of the
satin 1T Tho bottom OF the wrap. which Tits
closely t. the figure. OF this coat also.
the sleeves are attached tu the low shout
der scam and are finished with "a deep
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
MORE ELABORATE FROCKS.

Another dainty dress. little more clah-
CRATE. perhaps is OF blue chiffon. the true
baby blue that the skies reflect The
skirt is accordion pleated. and Owe II
falls the tunic OF shadow lace, slightly
draped al each side and caught with a
cluster oil pink chiffon rOsebuds. The
waist is almost completely yelled by the
wide breteles Of the lace. which fan over
the shoulders and are draped in curI-
Gus manner with the puffs forming me
elbow sleeves. The pink color note -
sounded in the wide sash Of pale Ilnk
MORE ribbon which fastens with sa'icy
little earlike loop al one side from whivr
depend two short ends. The Powered
chiffons with the creamy background and
great splashes of color in the flowers lh1
The foliage are effective best frocks Gci
q comparatively small outlay Of money.
The party frock Of last year mag Dc
yelled with this chiffon, slightly drdped,
and be thus transformed into an up-' -
date creation. especially if wide sirdl'
Of satin or ribbon and a bertha or fscAL-
like arrangement of lace be added.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
- CH]ONC ATFCT W7lMS

creature consists chiefly Of minute Of
ganisms. crustacea, mollusca. etc. float
lnS near the surface
When the whale opens its mouth ana
moves along d great multitude ol these
minute forms Of life find their way I'D.
Then the whale closes its mouth, and ~
water is strained out through the Whale
bone sieve and the food IS retained.
The common uses of Whaiebono are
known To everybody. II D.. however. put
to two uses not generally known even
i'm England, where the fine Internal
fringes mentioned are employed iu the
making of barristcr~' Wigs. BY reason of
their Iightness they retain the curl bet
ter than docs ordinary hair. Fine whale
bone threads are also sometimes ON
ployed to stincn the tissue in hieh-srade
silks.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
EVENING WRAPS LUXURIOUS.

The evening wraps are dreams Of luxury
and loveliness. Evening wraps are usu-
ally particularly appealing. but the ex-
ouisite color schemes Of this season and
the beauty Of the materials used make
the wraps Of this spring especially note
worthy. one OF the most conservative
models is that fashioned from black chif-
fon. with figures embroidered IN unsel
Wraps in a rich sapphire blue, with the
embroidery in gold OF silver, are even
more effective. Beautiful as these ma
terials are I'm themselves. the designers
do not hesitate to combine them with lace.
one Of the most admired OF the recently
iuported models at an exclusive shop is
of gold metal lace This is used for the
uppor part OF the wrap and the sleeves
while the lower section is Of white shadow
lace. with - hand run silk design. Pleat-
iugs Of lace soften the neck. the front ana
the sleeves. and Il delightful color scheme
is achieved by the wide Empire sirdie Of
rose satin. which is tied I'm japanese
bow i'm the front and is partly Velled BY
the sold lace.
Many Of the chiffon wraps arc mere
Mornings lust wisps Of chiffon. with the
drapings caught i'm front OF at the "ides
In these wraps there is opportunity for
some very artistic color schemes and the
designers have taken advantage OF tins
fact. \ real sky blue chiffon is lined with
the new yellow tint which has a decidedly
-recnish tiuge The wrap was 50 clever
~ draped-entirely beyond the descriptive
movers Of the writer-that II required
no ornamentation further than "A coiaf
Of pale. the very palest. pink ostrich
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
RUSSIAN SUIT IN SKETCH.

The Russian blouse costume shown in
the sketch is happy medium. II may be
worn as a coat dress OF as a suit with a
soft silk shirt under it Ii is an excellent
model for various materials. serge.
cpCnSe. cotton ratine. crash. even crepe
de chine or charmcuse; but for the early
spring days serge and eponge are the
most suitable. The necessary width is
gained in the skirt by the cluster Of six
plcats in the front. which are stitched
and pressed to knee depth from this
point they are merely restrained by care
ful tapping and pressing, and fly Just loose
enough to permit comfortable locomOtion
They are continued on the blousy waist 10
the neck, the line being broken only By
the green silk sash. To please the more
conservative mothers. black silk may be
substituted for the color. but as youth can
carry off all the brilliant colOrings to the
best advantage. il seems pity not 20 use
them. especially in this color season The
collar and cuffs Of the coat may be of any
material: they may sound all the bright
shades Of the season. as the Bulgarian
ncckwear does. or they may be Of white
crepe daintily embroidered in color or
again Of the figured eponge or printed
crtpc-in fact the choice is almost limit
less one AS they form the distinguishing
touch, il is well 10 select them with care.
for on this decision rests the cachet Of the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
TO WEAR IN THE EVENING.

The frocks for afternoon teas, informed
dinners. such as girls give. and the occa-
sional evening theatre party arc fascin9;-
ing creations Of soft silks and chinons
that have all the charm Of youth and
vet are sufficiently distinguished rom
children's dresses 10 be acceptable TO the
girl who believes she must wear grown
I'D" clothes to be in style. While theSc
frocks should be kept simple, they cin
be made very chic by individual touches.
such as the heavy padded roses used On
the gown in the sketch. This attractive
frock is fashioned from soft white crepe.
though il would be equally effective in
chiffon, wolfe or liberty satin. The SKIRT
is accordion pleated. an excellent inodt 81
for the school girl who must have irr'-
dom Of motion. and yet will not consid n
any mode that does not preserve the
straight. narrow silhouette. The waist
suggests the Russian blouse The popium
NAV also be made as the deep yoke OF
the skht. A novel touch is introduced by
the heavy padded roses OF SILK IN "A huiL
soft rose tone, accentuated by the color
ing Of the leaves. THESE flowers tran
their way around the bottom of the waist
and around the neck and conceal the
scam by which the sleeves are Joined 10
the waist. From this scam the sleeves
fall quite full. 10 the deep cuff OF net
which is finished by a fril. \ dainty 1T
tie shirred modesto of the net fms :es
the neck and the wide sash of sih
matches the color Of the roses. As TIC
roses may he bought by the yard. this
gown could be made AT home "itho IL
,,,,t, dfHctItN
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
CLEANING PICTURES.

Pictures are things that collect dust
in a terrible way. said housewife IN
Home Notes. so ! wash them All over
with a damp leather--the backs. rs wei
as the fronts Dirt doesn't show on the
brown paper backs. and you may THINK
that there is none there. But just run
YOUR cloth over and youll change your
mind pretty quickly. for II viii come
away simply coated with black.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
FOR THE SCHOOL ROOM.

The most satisfa Glory style for the
school room IS the one-picCe dress. Inc
serge frock. which has done service all
winter. may be remodelled for wear dur
ing the month or two before the advent
OF tub dresses by adding a sash and
undersleeves. as is shown on the model
i'm the sketch. This sash may be of plain
silk. OF of the Roman striped silk. but
the latter is newer and is SO fun of color
and life that ii seems TO radiate youth
There are numerous ways of adjusting
the sash. II may be arranged as a high
girdle, with a twisted knot 81 the side
from which long ends escape o. 1t may
be draped in the true Oriental fashion
The lower part of the sleeves, rubbing
on the desks. naturally wears out very
much faster than the blouse itself. ana
the fashion in sleeves of combining two
materials is a veritaDle boon to the cco-
nomical mother who has several daugh-
tiers for whom TO provide clothes.
If Il new frock is required. one in WOOL
eponge. shantung or cotton rdtinc would
be a good investment. The gown in me
sketch is designed for buff eponge. with
sash. underseeves and collar of me
Roman striped silk. To give this decofd-
tive effect 10 a cotton frock the printed
cottons in the bright Eastern colorS
would be lust the right addition. This
model. by the way. would serve as 4
practical one for tub dresses, as 1t is stint
ply made and can be washed and :rJncd
without much effort
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
YOUNG GIRLS FROCKS
The Girl Of To-Day Has Decided Ideas About Her
Clothes, but Not Always Good Ones-Some Helpful
Suggestions for the Guidance Of Mothers,

leather beit~ or by little embroidery.
These ratine suits will give better wear
than linen. because they do not crush or
wrinkle "a easily ana they wash salts
factorily
For week ends. luncheOns and theatre
parties on Saturdays, concerts. after
noon functions. etc. the coat dress
or suit in charmeUse. crepe de chine.
poplin. shantung or the heavy Canton
crepe is charming. If they must he ser
viceable, a dark sapphire blue or a rich
brown would be better choice than on
of the lighter tones. such az buff. or one
of the numerous reds OF light blues.
though the latter are very smart this
season for young girls. The same general
model OF TIE Russian blouse can be used
and an innovation introduced by making
the peplum pleated instead of plain.
Sometimes a very dressy effect l. pro-
cured by making this pleated pepium OF
chiffon cloth. The skirt may also be
draped slightly. either in the front or at
the sides The method populariZed by
enc of the leading French couturiers OF
drawing the fitness to the front ana
restraining it by three narrow tucks at
knee depth is eirlish and pretty. The
effective printed stuffs, either IN crepe
or in cotton. may be introduced as trim
ming with most delightful results. IT the
costume f. TO be worn as suit the
printed material makes a youthful blouse.
and as most young girls delight in color
they can be Influenced 10 accept such
i.l,,,-, ,ri,1,.,tt. ,,,rtsi, a,ln
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
USES OF WHAlEBOkE.

The function OF wtalcbone In the life
OF the whale. according 10 The American
Woman is Of the utmost importance.
The inner edges of the whalebone plates
are frayed into innumerable hairlikc proc
esses. and are whole forms sort OF
sieve whereby the whale may sift out It's
food from the scawater. 1t must be re-
membered that the food OF this gigantic
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
RICH coLoRs FOR LITTLE COATS

The odd little coats 70 wear with the
mo. ming frocks of cponse. wolfe and crepe
are dressy only in color They reflect
unite .s radiant hue Is those ih SIN
and chiffon. Coats IN the vivid shades OF
red the rich fruity and wine tones are
particularly effective with white irocks.
Ratine is the favored material for these
iaunty little coats There are also IN
tense shades of blue. yellow purple ana
green which can be substituted for red u
that shade is not becoming. Practically
All Of these coats are short. some redch-
ing only few inches below the waist
line: many are fashioned wilma high
waist line. higher even i'm the back than
i'm the front: some do not fasten AT all
In the front. but fall loosely at either side
to display the soft frils Of the waist;
others are caught AT the waist line with
ono large button. and all Of them reveal
gaylv colored Innings the pretty lowered
batistc Innings being particularly enc.
one Of the newest models Is developed in
white ratiue with barrow stripe OF
black. The back is straight and plain
but the material f. caught on either side
10 form soft drapings. The collar OF
white broche eponge extends 10 the waist
line. where il j. fastened with large
fancy button
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
SILK COATS IN VARIED STYLES.

The silk coats or wraps are almost IS
numerous a. the bees buzzing over 2 bed
OF fragrant Glove. one finds them every
where. ion every conceivable color scheme
and In various modes. Some take the
form of an Empire coat. with the high
waist line. deep revers. iaunty cuffs fin
ished with lace and frilly lacy jabot in
the front: others are draped closely
around the figure. while still others fall
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
LITTLE COATS, POPULAR
Thew Are Practical as Well as Onamenta-IheW Winter
Afternoon Gown May Be Transformed Into Smart
Street Dress by Combining the Two.

shapeless and loose, like the Chimes.
mandarin coat. The coats OF poplin
MORE and broche crepe are particularly
smart when developed along the jaunty
lines Of the Empire coat with slightly
full peplum. and wastcoat of lowered
silk. one Of the best looking models.
fer cloth as well as for silk. has a close
" fitting peplum which extends from the
waist line to the hips. buttoning in the
front. The seams on either side Of the
back are slashed, and a girdle sash Of the
material. about eight inches wide. is
dra wn from the front 10 the back through
the slashes. finishing IN bow on the left
side
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
PROBLEM OF YOUTHFUL MoTHER

TO be sure. it is something OF % poser
for ii youthful looking mother to have
her daughter growing up above hor shout
ders and to hear her beg 10 have her
dresses let down and ucr Eair put up. but
there are comparatively few mothers who
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
TAFFETE STILL FASHIONABLE.

\ wrap in Powered taifeta, a delight
fully supple taffeta, is draped to band
of black satin, which encrcles the hips
snuSly. The revers are Of the satin. but
are folded or draped TO the fastening at
the extended waist line. y new touch is
lent by the hood Of taffeta. with its saucy
black silk tassel. which follows in shape
the drapings at the back Of the wrap.
fairly melting into them. The broche ma
terials lend themselves To TINS treatment
i'm an ideal manner.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
SIMPLE SUITS FOR GIRLS.

Occasionally a mother who Still believes
ina she is the guardian Of her daughter
until she Is of age will assert her author
ity and will insist that her child wear the
simple. SirliSh clothes especially designed
for misses. She viii order for her a plain
street suit. This may be of navy blue
serge. ratinc. cheviot. Bedford cord or a
check but II will be severely tailored
The modes designed for the tall slender
hgure now fashionable are drawn upon
for ideas. and there is considerable SINH
larity between the street costumes worn
10y The sister who is out" and tie
younger girl who can boast Of only sin
teen summers. ANY suggestion o. the
fantastic is omitted in the jackets for the
Young girl. They may be slightly cut
away. but they are more likely to he on
the order Of the Russian blouse. with the
belt across the back. As rule the waist
coat is omitted.
Just how the so-called Balkan suits FOR
ciils came in IL is hard 10 tell. Paris
does not claim them. and they are not
seen in the Bots. even on the young girls
bat they have been adopted with q ven
Gcance IN this country. and while they
Lave certain features 10 recommend them,
they do not appeal to the discerning
mother who realizes at once that their
extensive popularity has already placed
them beyond the pale fer the carefully
dressed girl They are similar 10 the
Russian blouse in its simplest interpIe-
tation, but the exaggerated waist line
marked by q broad band of some kind
sayors too much Of the sensational.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
VARIETY OF COATS AND WRAPS.

Tho variety oi coats ard wraps 70
quired los tho young sIl of to-day Is al
most ts extensive as that needed by her
mother The coat FOR sports" may as
We'll bc classcd as a necessity. for few
youue girls believe themselves happy
without al least one. The newest are
fashioned from the checked materials.
either n black and white blue and white
or brown and white y tig coat OF black
AMI white check. .itn a vide belt and
deep collar and cuffs of white cotton vel
vot. is intended To- be- worn with a skirt
of the ,utton velvet. Thls material ~ not
unlike the cotton corduroy which was
found LAST summer To- bc Il thoroughly
practical material washing and ironing
well AID uot Vtinkling nor does It
crease as quickly az linen. y coat n
brown ard white checked material,
shown % one of thc shops. is longer
reaching to the thrcc-quartcr length, aud
is generously equipped with pockets. two
being placed below the leather belt and
two above
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
BRIGHT coLoRED POLO COATS.

The vogue for brilliant colors has been
taken into account i'm the polo coats Of
bright green as vivid as any ever worn
iL mono" of ST Pa;ricl.; OF rich ccrisc red.
~ own under various sub-titles. and Of
the true Fu,urist blue. which must be
Intense To deserve this name. They are
dJuble-bgCastcd affairs similar In style 10
the polo coats of the last year OF two. and
are fastened with white bone buttons.
They are wonderfully picturesque on the
Inks. The Legitimate successor to the
popular blazer coat is the Jacket OF
French awning cloth in various combine
tonh Of color, though the original model
showed stripe Of white and red. There
Is certain novelty IN the cut Tor many
of them are made with deep yokcs and
rave borrowed thc belt from the Russian
blouse. They are decidedly jaunty and
quite the newest idea in sporting toys.
pRESSY LITTLE COATS.
There are many drcssy little coats to
wear with lingerie frocks. one OF The
most effective OF the coats Is developed in
terra Gotta Canton crepe. II tast'ns AT
thc side with large mouds covered with
the material. one Of the revers ~ turned
PACK and IL supplied with butIonholos
10 match the buttons on the coat 50 that
'h' garment may be fastened close 10 the
neck u desired. The thrce-quartor sleeves
are attached to the low shoulder seam
inns style of sleeve seems To nave iailch
hoir To all the popularity shoWered fe"
seasons ago on the kimono sleeve IL
certain! has comfoDl to recommehu u. W
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06

cuff of white satin. Although the moae'
is "a simple one. it lacks the siriishness Of
,b. creme coat
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
POKE BONNET FOR GIRLS.

Tine millinery genius who revived tho
p.,tucspu, poke bonnet must have had ID
vision of O. pIquant voting face pcepins
out from beneath the brim. 10 top the
1lau, utt, oldtmc fro.ks of muslin AMI
nun,r,I materials these poke bonnels
ar, charmue.
a laehm2 model in he paIest blue
hemp has just been ordered Tor "a pretty
blonde who VIII act as maid OF honor
ior an older sister this month. The mod-l
i4 such q good ono FOR the midsumm"f
dr,-sy hat that DO Is worth describing.
A.1.rc ribbon Iu the same delicate tone OF
blue drap,d across the crown ana falls
n ono long str,am'r from the left brm.
When tlr hat d, ON tho head TINS end -
drawn under thc chin and Is fastened 10
OBJ. Ichf side ON either side of the
crown larer blush pink rose nestles IN
IL. green foliage. making the dainty COM
bua'iou of pale pink and blue boz which
t., French always dc.-tt The moro aS-
gres-ivc hats. with drarcs Of Payly coll
cred ribbons and clusters of flowers or
fruits boz equally sarish tiuts. arc not for
Tine Young sirL
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06

Irritaouty is often cured h' q change
of scene. n family could separate Tor
"a dav or So. many of the little annor-
ances would 70, cleared mp by The 1apJ:
reunion
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06
NERVOUS sREAKOOWNS.

Worry is not the only thing that causes
ir.akCcvps. Tie nervous tension oH' 10
the noises iu our streets. ih r-sh 70 So
on and of cars. dazzlins and harsh liSs..
The beyildering whirl Of amusemcn's p"
tend 10 shake the nerves and cause "na'
we call nervous breakdown.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06

II is not often that fashion gives 10 hsr
yotaries style that is as prdctcfl as IL
is ornamental. but she has certaiHiV done
so in the case of dressy little wraps Wii~h
are the novelties Of the season. Ala '''e
Of those inconse9uential affairs to the SIX
frocll which has been worn all winter as
a bridge gown. and the result VIII be
smart. up-to-date street costume. Couid
one ask for mere economical solution
of the clothes problem?
IL need not be i'm the same colollhS' 1T
fact. il will be smarter If II is mol. NOT
need il be of the same material; hence
there is no necessity for running all over
town TO match material and a coI'r
that are already a season old. II may D.
developed in a woollen material, such as
brochd eponge. velOurs de lame OF }"
some silk. such as talfeta. watered popilh'
moire. charmeuse, crepe de chine, Dfoche
creme and brocades: or in the more uiI1y
chiffon and its allies II may be pam
DEPENDING for decoration upon the subtle
tv Of tho drapings and the clever compi-
nations OF color. or il may be ornameht'u
with marabout. ostrich. lace OF beads
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06

some doctors say that if a woman could
raallv res, until 10 O'Clock every dag sUe'
would add decade to her life Rest :
the only thing that lets Ms catch up WIN
ourseh cS.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1913-04-06

Tho young girl OF to-day-that ids-
TEDIOUS Young woman who has just en-
tered her tccns-has usually very definite
IDEAS about exactly what clothes she de-
sircs 10 wear and what clothes she IS
going 10 wear. and it is only the mother
with the good. old-fashioned iron mana
who can dress her daughter appropriately.
where the young girl gains all her fashion
information IL is often difficult to dis
cover but she knows the latest agony
from the minute that il is launched. she
list ally has a prejudice too, against wear
ing things especially designed for girls
Of her age. Let the saleswcman show
hcr hat OIL suit designed TO give be-
coming cirlish effect. ard let her make
the mistake of calling il junior model
and the girl is insulted. The same cry IS
heard from all of the shops. the depart
meut stores and the specially shops we
design appropriate sirlish models and the
Young girls will have none Of them.
The Seattle star. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1899-1947, 1913-09-20
TWO FINE OFFERS

The Seattle Star has two excep-
tlonaially fine premium offers which
IL is making 10 new subscribers. or
TO old subscribers who send IN their
renewal subscriptions. One is the
latest parcel post chart, which
gives full and complete data and
Information as 10 ths use Of the
parcel post. It's rates. etc This
chart Includes a map Of the state
OF Washington and map OF the
United States. The other offer IL
a complete Durham shaving outfit.
consisting OF safety razor. seven
guaranteed blades, nickelhandled
shaving brush and shaving soap. all
packed In neat leatherette case
Either the map or the razor Ii sent
absolutely free with a years sub
scription at the regular price OF
1926 per year In advance.