Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1913-09-19
Mountain Climbing.



The tragic death of DIR. Calvin
Fletcher brings home to a community
generally unfamiliar with mountains
and their characteristics. the grave
possibilities invoked in their explora-
ton. The high-snow-capped peaks of
the far northwest challenge the am
bitten of every active person. and in
ereasing numbers respond each year
to the appeal for in mountain climb
ing is to be found physical sport of
the highest order. More and more,
therefore, the people OF. the lowlands
will be journeying to the far west i'm
their vacation days, and venturing in
to the Wild regions of the Rockies and
Cascades. 1t is not out of place, there
fore, to point out that mountain climb
ing, involving the crossing of snow
fields and glaciers and the scaling OF
steep rock and snow slopes, is fraught
with dangers of which the uninitiated
has no comprehension. One may be
an expert In all ordinary. outdoor
sports and exercises. but remain a nov
ice among the strange conditions Of al
pine snow and ice and rocks On this
account one who lacks experience in
mountaineering should never venture
among such conditions except with a.
competent guide and the proper equip
ment. The experienced mountain
climber observes certain precautions
as a matter of course. and never I'M
der any circumstances thinks of me-
gfecting them. Indeed. the more he
encounters the dangers of the noun
tains, the more cautious he becomes.
because the possibilities of neglect, OF
q mishap or an accident are always
facing him. Essential articles of
| equipment are shoes studded with pro-
iecting nails. which grip the rocks and
ice and prevent Slipping, and an al
renstoek. or ice ak, with steel point.
Also an inyariable rule when climb
ing glaciers is to rope together in
groups of three or four, so that if one
slips or breaks through snow bridge
INTO q. erevasse, his fail will be check
ed and his companions can help him
back to the surface. Ali glaciers ex.
hibit erevasses. often of frightful pro-
portions. and the danger Of these ia
frequently masked by more or less
frail snow bridges which are liable
To give way as one steps upon them,
La the party Of which the writer was
member this. summer on two occa-
SONS persons broke through into such
creVasses. One was an experienced
professional Swiss guide, the other al
lady under the direction of a skilled
guide. In both cases the results would
nave been serious, perhaps, even IA
tai, but for the precaution of the rope.
Last season the writers guide, a pro-
fesionhl Swftaspx many years expert
enee, broke through a snow bridge and
disappeared into crevasse. hut the
rope prevented serious accident.
fhese Instances show how easily at
eiuents occur even TO the most exep-
aenced and the necessity of ebesery
hiG every precaution to avoid them
Oh m'isate their consequences. a slim
OF hilsstep which under ordinary cir
ctlmstanees would be of no Importance
may mean death when occurring on a.
steep ice Slope or rock climb. This
was precisely what occurred in Or,
fietchef S case and it is at least SUR
H'isaole that II the usual precautions
mao oeen observed a fatality would
haFe been avoided. The president Of
mountaineering club of Vancouver
met ms death this summer on Mr.
BAKER, IN northern WASHINGTON. bv
Nehsurins on to the glacier without
foping to his guide, and slipping into
a deep creyasse.
There is a tendency among rho no
tive guides in many of the western
mountain regions in the states TO ic-
more the use of the rope In compar-
ison with this. climbing in the Cana
ciah Rockies is in accordance with ths
pest methods of the Swiss, who are
acknowledged leaders in the SNORT
ana at all important climbing po,nts
licensed Swiss guides are stationed for
the benefit of climbers. The AIpine
cub OF Canada enforces the strictest
observance of approved methods and
aHhoush hundreds of its members
chmb among the most difficult peaks
each summer, accidents are rare and
fatalities almost unknown
In our national parks. like that at
MI. Rainier. and Glacier park, the a,,-
thorities should take strieter precau-
tions with regard to guides and the s,I.
pervision Of inexperienced persons
venturing into dangerous situations
otherwise. as the tide of tourist tray.
ell brings increasing numbers of nov.
ices info the mountains, serious acci-
dents are bound to occur. To tho In.
experienced person who feels n desira
70 engage In mountain climbing. the
iirst requisite Is respectful appre-
elatioh OF its dangers and difticultia.
and willingness to be guided by the
experience of others -Indianannli.
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