The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1913-01-15
PRUNING FRUIT TREES.
clemson College Extension Work
south Carolina Experiment Station
Press Bulletin No. 100.

"i'44S 10 al NECESSITY Wnere best
results are TO be expected from fruit
trees. a tree can be given all the
attention possible relative to cultiva-
tlon and fertilizer, but unless it is iu-
dlclously pruned the branches will be-
come thick, weaken and die. These
become the harboring places for in
sects and fungous diseases which
prey upon the tree and fruit. Even
IL the branches do not die they be-
come so thick that the fruit is infer
lor In size, color and quality. Well
pruned, low headed trees, having the
bearing wood well distributed ,and be-
ing stout and StOcky, are able to bear
and hold up heavy crops of fruit
They also facilitate spraying, thinning
and harvesting. They are also by far
more ornamental in appearance than
the awkward, long limbed unpruned
trees. Pruning is necessary, there
fore, where the best trees and first
class fruit are desired.
To get the most satisfactory results
pruning should be done every year.
By annually heading back and thin
ming out the small branches during
the early life of the tree and re-
moving a dead branch here and a.
stray limb there, in after years, the
tree can be kept in good healthy
fruiting condition, and it will never be
necessary to cut out large limbs or
unbalance til, tree by very heavy
pruning. Pruning should consist more
in directing the growth each year than
by checking it by one heavy pruning
which is to make up for years Of neg
lect. If tree is properly directed
and shaped when young it will never
be necessary to cut out many branch
es or large limbs in later years
Pruning should commence when
the tree is planted. When the tree
is planted cut back the dead and
broken roots to good living wood,
leave a clean smooth cut. The young
tree should be pruned back to the
height the head Of the tree is to be
formed, which height should be con-
sistent with the methods Of cultiva-
ton. l would suggest 16 to Is inch
es for the peach and "a to 80 inches
for the apple and pear If the young
tree is whip-like the side buds may
be allowed to form leaves the first sea-
son to cause it to become stout and
stocky If it is stocky enough, all
the buds may be kept rubbed off as
they start except those intended to
form the main branches Of the tree
II is a common fault to start a young
tree with too many main branches
which afterwards crowd each other
to such an extent that it becomes
necessary to cut out large limbs
Three or four main limbs, if properly
placed are enough for any fruit tree
The main limbs should be well ar
ly dffrent heights on the main axis
After the first seasons growth all
branches except those just mention
ed, should be cut away and these
should be headed back about half
The annual pruning afterwards will
consist largely in heading back the
previous seasons growth and keep
ing the head thinned out. On the
upright growing trees, as the Kieffer
pear, prune to bud point outward
so as to cause the head to spread.
When the tree begins to bear full
crops of fruit, it will not bear a sur
plus amount Of wood, hence very lit
tie pruning will be necessary except
in the case of the peach tree, which
should be thinned out and headed
back even after it is bearing fun
crops of fruit. Pruning is best done
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