Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1913-09-07
Special Correspondence of The star.

PARIS, August -, 1919.
- 20 one quite knows whether
II or not the designers should
be congratulated for not in
PRODUCING new silhouette. The
buyers who have come from
all over the world to see the new
ideas in clothes are not quite happy
over the fact that fashions have not ma
teTially changed from the late spring.
The women who must buy clothes are
delighted, unless they are extremists who
take pleasure in changing their outline
and their wardrobes every few months.
This much may be said concerning the
present silhouette-that it is new to the
majority of Americans who did not go
into the haunts of fashion during June
and July. To those who are familiar with
clothes from a fashionable standpoint.
the silhouette of the moment is not es-
sentia1ly new.
Here it is In detail: The footline is
narrow and one cannot walk with an
athletic stride nor step up into an in
conveniently high street car. The slash
in evening gowns is at the side or the
back and is filled in with lace or en-
broidered net. That part of the skirt
which extends from waist to knees is i'm
mensely full. it makes little difference
how; panniers are used, or ruffies, or
tunics; anything that will give the
breadth necessary at this part of the
figure.
The ruffies themselves have milliner's
wires run in the hem to keep them out,
and stiff tulle or pleated net is used to
procure fullness.
The waist line is as large as the hip
line and the shoulders and back are not
narrow, but exceedingly broad; the
sleeves are large and almost shapeless
unless they are In coat to be worn on
the street. The neck is high at the back
and the head is coiffed 10 be as small as
possible. and the little hat is worn well
down over it.
To begin with, there is no change in the
width or the skirts at the foot line and
the underskirt is entirely tight ali the
way 10 the waist. ii is the drapery that
gives the voluminous effect from waist TO
knees. The drapery goes upward from
back to 'front.' but there is perceptible
falling of in the method of punching the
drapery over the diaphram
II Is laid In pleats at each side, but the
high waist line is maintained, and the
space left free in front. between the
splash of embroidery. huge sash, or a
cabochon OF colored crystals when the
gown is for the evening
Any ornamentation like this increases
the size Oh the waist line, out that makes
no difference whatever to the designer.
and evidently 1t does not to the women.
The huge waist line and the narrow
foot line are universally accepted on
every side. and in none of the new gowns
shown so far-although few of the
great houses have delayed their openings
lis there any sign of departing from this
idea Whatever is new is a question of
drapery, of material. of embroidery and
Of color.
So universal is the naring tunic that
the straight up-and-down gown with bias
or vertical drapery looks bit old-fash-
Toned. This contrast was quite pro-
nounced Tuesday when a famous house
showed a conservative model of black
cut jet over black tulle with a simple
corsage of thin white Venetian lace,
white tulle and jet ornaments. and the
next gown was of black charmeuse with
a narrow skirt, not draped but merely
caught UP in a bunch at the back and
sides, and trimmed with three flaring ac-