Evening journal., 1913-10-04
RUSSiANsTLL THE STRONG STYLE INFL UENCE
Gowns Of SOmber Tone Bright Embroidery and Fluncs
In Evidence
Embroidery and Fur---TuniCS

latter being used on hats as well as
gowns.
In evening toilettes. the New Art
idea prevails to a very marked de-
gree. This means nothing more nor
less than the application of the
principles of decorative art to wo-
mans dress. 1t is very difficult in
many cases to distinguish the vivid,
tinsel- threaded brocades which are
being offered for dinner and dancing
gowns, from the textures which have
heretofore been confined exclusively |
to upholstering of the drawing-room |
furniture. If a woman is very tall |
and slender, she may perhaps essay |
an entire costume of such material /
iprovided it be not too vivid in tone. |
but in by far the majority OF cases
1.-THE utmost caution should be exerc-
iisNd in the use of these dashing brcc-
ladies'. It is safe to say that most
women will adopt them only in COM
lbination with plain fabrics OF neutral
tone.
For the smart little waistcoat, with
lout which few Of the new tailored
suits are complete, these bright
brocades are ideal, giving dash Of
color to the somewhat somber tones
Z which prevail in dress fabrics.
4 Our first illustration shows very
effective suit embodying the waist
coat idea. One hears much OF the
| lvagueness Of line characterizing the
new suits, and it is true that the
strictly mannish type of garment IS
becoming constantly less conspicuous
lin the feminine wardrobe. A suit of
good conservative cut, such as the
lone we show, is, however, an absolute
necessity for every woman. IL rep
resents. in addition to the waistcoat
two other interesting styie features
the combination of contrasting ia
brics and the cutaway idea. which
continues strong for fall and winter
The coat is of tan cloth, with brown
velvet collar and cuffs, the waistcoat
of copper-c -colored broadcloth, SOUND
ling an extremely fetching note Ih'
graceful, undraped skirt is OF tan
and-brown worsted in the new money
comb effect, which has supplante'
ichecks in the affections of the womal
of fashion. Very simple IN nne' ye
giving a somewhat dressy effect be
cause of the variety Of materials EN-
Moved. this suit represents WIS
ISElttllOH IDl Alt N'hANrA ~ -
ed income, as it can be made
lanswer for many occasions.
A very earnest effort is Deing mad
nv certain exclusive dressu1akers
,- TRANSPORT across the seas the bouitaI
STYLES to which the Parisienne is tai
ler ing SO kindly. This proves no eai
ing matter. as the American woman
en- faithfully welded TO the semi-class
ing forms of dress which have prevail'
- during the past several years
pre-eminently we'll adapted to n
physical type.
he'd However we see in the estahlis
les, ments of the ultra-fashionable n
res distes gowns with wired tuni
ben boned MANNERS, and the drawn-ba
also ldraperies which suggest the days
ines the bustle-in fact, we are told u
the in Paris small bustles are actua
ICED being worn by a few of the most
dent followers of fashion.
4 But extremes are only interest
folk. as indicating the possible trend
xnee fashion. and so far the average, W
,ntlv dressed American woman sh'
the marked preference for simple, gra
ated full styles.
This Tunies which drape close 10 tne
,ter- lure have won her complete appro
IN we SNOW III Jul ScNNhN
IN q attractive dress exemplifying
idea. It is made of gray chiffon
of vet. the straight lines of the s.
new displaying the beautiful fabric to
1e lcellent advantage. The blouse
sner- the kimono shoulder. and sleeve
in a lieved by touch of lace in the
-reen lAllover shadow lace comprises
and west. which is finished with an
IN of standing frill of the lace. The
cot llum is exceedingly graceful, gi'
ings, the raised-tront line; Whicn ls 50
tural fective. An emerald green
the lgirdle encircles the waist anu