Gilpin observer., 1913-05-22

sian as he considers the
transaction of business or
| \ the taking of a journey.
And before the westerner has been
long in this country he drops his shib-
boleth that time is money" and falls
into the fatalistic philosophy of the
east, where the language has no eQui-
valent meaning for our words, pune
tuality and promptitude, writes
Teheran correspondent Of the Los
Angeles Times.
Truly Persia Is no place for the
hustler, accustomed to do" country
or kingdom by express railroad
routes and automobile transit, and
who expects to get Ritz or Waldorf
Astoria wherever he stops.
Only when the powers take hold of
Persia and run the country will travel
become easy and pleasant for the ordi-
nary globetrotter. For the present
tits open only to the venturesome and
leisurely. for there are scarcely any
railroads in the length and breadth OF
the land. and transit over any distance
is both perilous and arduous. though
full of interest to the strong and sea-
soned traveller.
In Persia 1t Is no simple under
taking to prepare for a caravan jour-
ney Of $50 miles or SO, as your arrange
ments must allow for at least eight
days on the road-in many places
merely rough. stony track through
mountain gorges. A string of six
or eight mules Is required, and you
have to be smart at a bargain when
you haggle with the owner of the
hearts, though as matter of fact, the
muleteer generally gets his price.
The contract nust then be written
out, and the muleteer affixes his seal
to it, for few of them can either read
or write. But you are not through
with the deal until you have paid over
half or even three-Quarters of the
stipulated ticket journey" The next
business is the engagement Of smart
boy for the road and cook to prepare
the meals, and upon their character
the entire comfort Of your caravan
journey depends.
Expert Servants.
Persian servants could give points
to the most expert swell mobsman 60
ing. They always make the very best
use of opportunities for plunder when
the provisions for the trip are bought.
Gradually. however, the large saddle
bags begin to swell out with packets
of tea. loaves of sugar. tins of provi-
sions rice. meat, bread. candles. Goals
] and other necessaries. You have also
to provide a new samovar. plates.
knives, forks, spoons, together with
a teapot and teacups. While the SER
wants are busy with the dealer the
sahib chooses a saddle and some camp
furniture not forgetting a travelling
carpet.
Fortunately, for eight months OF the
year in Persia the sun shines con-
tinually out of fine blue sky, SO
journeys are generally taken under
ideal conditions. Rain adds the last
note OF deaolasion to the mostly barren
land. making the miserable villages
full of hungry. begging people. and
the gloomy. fort-like caravansaries,
gray, nightmare visions OF hopeless
ness.
The chief outstanding feature OF a
long tour In Persia is the massive cara.
vansaries, the poorest apologies for
hotels the world contains. They are
built by charitable people who desire
to do q good turn to the travellers
On the lonely roads and mule tracks,
which are infested by marauding
bands of highwaymen.
As a rule they are built square. with
rooms around the sides, opening ON
to the interior courtyard. In bad
weather the mules are put into roomy
stables behind. though generally the
animals aye tethered in the spacious
courtyard, with their loads disposed
around them and the bells on their
harness tinkling continually.
On first alighting at one Of these
rest-houses for the night, when the
servant indicates your apartment you
are apt to be badly Jared by its ap-
pearance. The opening into the black,
smoke begrimed room 10 doorless. The
mud floor Is dirty and uneven, the
corners filled with all kinds OF rubbish,
such as egg-shells, fruit skins and the
like. But II the boy is good one
he soon makes his master comfort
able. A fire is lighted; the room
swept and the meager equipment set
out. A curtain nailed over the en-
rance battles the gaze of inquisitive
onlookers. ind when In the hickering