The Red Cloud chief., 1913-01-23
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In the morning, with the rising sun. the Bedoun
arrive. Before Helouan is awake their white
headdress was visible far down the sandy waste
that meets the fringe Of Delta towards Cairo.
But Helouan soon comes down to see. Few OF
them tarry here; they go straight through; the
Bedouin do not like the people, houses, tourists.
They resent the cameras. flourish their whips OF
buffalohde and trot past almost fiercely. There
Is scorn In their eyes as they circle about their
wives. High on their splendid cames. they have
a regal air. making the great brutes turn and
double easily horses and shouting angrily
II anyone goes near the watersellers. This is
their last watering place before the tomb Is
reached, and to trine with Bedouin's water is
like tritng with his wives. And no wonder they
wear this princely men. for the whole Imperial
desert Is their home. Upon the slower camels In
their lordly train. sometimes four abreast. their
women all carefully veiled sit with the little
children. Some are hidden from sight In tent
like canvas. gorgeously striped and colored 1t
sways to and fro with the enormous knee-stroke
OF the camels like n boat at sea. SOemnly the
Moslem world files past across the sands. And
we outsiders get nearer, ask, stare. and follow
we may. The gulf 1t not bridged that lies be-
tween minds and theirs In vain try.
wondering what they think and feel and whato
emotions hide behind those fine bronze faces
Their poteness wells II ALL their own deep world;
their courtesy screens revelation. They move,
like the camels. at the pace Of thousand years,
unchangng, We watch them across barriers,
that Is all Note that old man praying alone
there behind the munching camel. He has wash
ed his hands and feet; his carpet is spread on
the sand. and his shoes OF. Mind heart and
soul are concentrated. He Is oblvous to the
world about him he bows towards the east
and his forehead taps the ground
As the moon rises higher and night becomes
all white, the fun begins In earnest-Fantasia az
they call II, borrowing a foreign word couple
OF mounted police from Helouan come down to
keep order and see that the few inquisitive tour
lists from the hotels are not molested. But their
services are not once required Only the little
children trot around with their incesatn demand
for baksheesh. The Arabs take notice OF us
outsiders, beyond making way when we approach
offering here and there word Of explanation
or inviting us to drink coffee with them when We
draw near to their fre-crces The Fantasia
grows fast and furious. while the crouching cam
els MUNICH and the cries OF goats and donkeys
mingle with the women's weird uulating. In one
corner a ring Is formed and the band begins to
play-two pipes and q tomtom. TO the endless
repetition Of single phrase, half melody. halt
chant, enters Sheikh upon his Arab horse, The
gold and silver trappngs CLEAN In the moonlight.
His headdress shines: the horses metal neck.
lace chinks and rattles, Holding the rens in one
hand the other grips stan with its point In the
sand: round this he circles In and out. making
figure OF eight. the animal taking its small steps
proudly. neck arched. tail hying head held grace
fully erect. Suddenly the rider swings a gun