Evening journal., 1912-10-05
AMERICAN DESIGNS VS.. FRENCH FASHIONS
Lace, RhineStOneS and Fur
Combine to Form the Gar
niture Of Stylish Gowns
USE OF CONTRAST
ING MATERIALS

with its two yards Of width at the
lower edge the movements of the
wearer are in 10 wise impeded. Inset
section. front closing, vest and high
collar are all recent style features
worthy of consideration. SO. too. is
the attractive braiding design with
which the costume is embelliehed
Braided and beaded trimmings
make handsome gowns even of simple
materials. but when developed in Jew
els they are the groundwork of the
most exquisite costumes. Gorgeous
indeed are the dresses aglitter with
the rhinestone embroidery now so
high in popular favor. The limpid
glow of the rhinestone redeems il
from the commonness of most near
jewels, and the handsomest and most
expensive fabrics are considered none
too good for its companionship. With
tulle. chiffon. or lace they are featur-
ed on evening gowns of brocade and
satin. In some cases STEAMERS of be-
ieweled galloon are mingled with
chiffon in a loose drapery caught, in
pannier fashion, near the hem of the
skirt Often the draperies are the
gauziest of webs embroidered with
rhinestones-a fragile weapon for the
fray of fashion. is it not2 But an ef-
fectual one while Il lasts.
From Dan TO Beersheba in the
realm of the modiste is no uncommon
journey. and so this winter our most
| fashionable garniture will be COM
bination of lace, rhinestones and fur.
A touch of fur should be seen on
every dress if We would appear to
comply with the rigid canons of style.
On our coats, on the hats to be worn
with them, on broadcloth gowns, of
course--to that much we are accus-
toned, but when we see shoulder
straps of beaver, skunk or sable hold
ing up the filmiest of decollete
blouses we have an entirely new SEN
sation We need time to accustom
ourselves TO the idea that a band of
fur can be an appropriate border for
a bead embroidered chiffon tunic. OF
that a tulle pannier has any right to
be gathered into fur fastening, but
the decree has gone forth. and slow
as we may be to realize it, the effect
is really charming
Many of us prefer white fur on
gowns of light material, and, to be
candid this does meet the re-
quirements of the very best taste. But
real ermine costs pretty penny, and
an affinity for soil distinguishes all
the white varieties. For once, there.
fore. fashion consults expediency and
sets the seal of approval on dark fun
! for gowns both dark and light.
Another thing we observed at the
fall openings is the extreme height O
the collars this fall. Low collars have
had their day and unless a gown is
outspokenly collarless, the neckbanC
must he carried well up under the
chin and to the hair line at the bach
of the neck. Both of our illustrations
show this feature.
Figure Two gives us a good exam
pie of the accepted collar. Attached
to the chemisette of allover lace, II il
a decidedly smart touch to an other
wise quite simple gown. Black satin
: charmeuse was the serviceable ma
terial chosen for this useful frock
with white moire silk for the shaw
collar. A prevalent fancy for thu
, pleated skirt is gratified in this un
usually good model. desirable slen
derness being maintained in spite o
/ the pleats. Any unpleasant fulnesl
> at the hips. which might prove al
} objection should the pleats be carrie,
! the entire length of the skirt. is en-
! tirely obviated by the smooth uppe
, section. The pleats themselves ar
] carefully taped underneath just above
tthe knees and. again about six iuche'