Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-01-28

have the roll and the droop wherever
each seems most becoming. Indeed never
was there q season when becoming hats
were so easy to find. Shapes express
sort come all ready to poise against the
hat, and all that IL necessary Is to turn
the hat round and round on your head un-
til you think a becoming adjustment has
been reached and whip on the trimming
when and where you please II you are
very modish you will be sure to trim the
first spring hat exactly in the middle OF
the front, for this style Is Just now the
dashing and becoming to certain women.
has a hint Of holiness that is not liked by
all. and after the first furore this pert
francois l feather. as 1t Is called, Will
monplace-that bourn from which no
fashion returns within the space, at least,
of single generation.
One Of today's hats, a high-crowned
model of very soft straw braid, has a
Francois / feather at the front. virot
is especially fond Of this pert. upright
plume over the forehead, and many Virot
models for the Riviera are decorated in
this way. A very smart taffeta toque.
for example. designed to match travel
ing costume of navy blue fabric. is of
navy blue taffeta. wound round and
round a straight. high-crowned. brimless
toque-very much like a section of stove
pipe il one may be allowed the COMPARE
son-and at the front rises in almost mill
tary stiffness the white brush made of os-
trich- These taffeta turbans are dragged
far down over the head. and with their
swathings of soft silk in multituGinous
East Indian princes-as indeed they are
meant to do. 1t Is very easy to copy such
a turban, but the home milliner would
find 1t hard to match the indescrfbable
shades of the French colors. Even the
staid navy blue of this Virot turban was
like no other navy blue that one sees on
the silk counters of American shops. In
some lights it was black, in others a deep.
wonderful shade like the sky after sunset
when the first stars come out. Corbeau
the milliner called 1t, and it is the blue
of blues in Paris now.
With this deep. dark, mysterious blue
are combined bacchante shades Of grape
and plum, Burgundy. prune and cham
payne. A stunning hat by Lewis. which
will be worn next month at Palm Beach
with a tailored suit Of cream white mo-
hair. has two huge cartwheel bows OF
velvet, one prune colored. the other wine
red, poised at either side of tall crown,
the bows meeting above the hat like
peaked roof. These prune and wine bows
are used on shape of navy blue straw
and the facing under the brim is also
harmony between the solemn prune. the
gay wine and the simple navy colorings.
A hat in prune and champagne shades
is illustrated in the flexible toque Of straw
braid, faced and banded around the crown
with taffeta. The straw is prune color
and the taffeta trimming in a delicate
champagne tint that Is exquisite with the
reddish purple tone of the straw. This
hat is a French model, and it's chief
feature is its remarkable fexibility and
Is<x1,k ny,< f@@ L. lob
in the hand. and it may be folded and
tucked into handbag. springing back
instantly when released into correct
shape. All French hats this season have
this wonderful quality of f1exiblity and
pliancy-or, at least. all models that have
come to this country have had 1t. these
hats of course. being among the exclusive
and distinctive Paris millinery creations.
One actually measures the distinction of
ones new spring hat by it's amount of
pliancy. II it is stiff and unbending. the
milliner has no business to ask a high
price for it, since only the cheaper and
heavier straw braids are made up in that
manner.
Another hat showing the soft. supple
character is the charming little Su-
zanne Talbot model In mauve and vio-
let tones. The straw shape is almost
entirely covered with shirred taffeta
ribbon and silk peonies crushed into
the ribbon folds. The taffeta bow at
the back slants outward to give the
backward trend that is fashionable
just now. Plum coloring is used again
in the onnet-shaped model. (which has
a conical or beehive" crown of rough
straw braid and slightly rolling brim
covered with shirred taffeta. the shir-
ring being done over cords in the man.
ner approved this season.
The trend of this hat is also decidedly
backward, and the roll of the brim at
the back emphasizes this effect. Silk
plums in rich shades of mauve and
purple and a wired velvet bow trim
the crown. A hat Of this shape is be-
comin~ only to the woman who has
plenty of soft. fluffy hair to fill out the
space between the fiaring brim and the
head. The hair is dragged downward
over ears and temples and even over
,, the cheeks. to form softening frame
| for the face within the hat brim; and
when the hat is removed tho couture is
apt to present a tousled appearance.
Nowadays. however. the hair is scrupu-
lousy cared for and Is kept so soft and
fluffy by constant shampoos. brushings