The Washington herald., 1912-09-14
ABBEY DRESS WILL
ENJOY POPULARITY
Beet Blood Is One of the New Shades
for Fall.

Conspicuous among new fall fashions
is the abbey" dress which has been
meteoric in; its rise, and If predictions
are to be relied upon the abbey" frock
will enjoy definite popularity. And all
these predictions seem quite reasonable
since the latest cry Is to discard the
| corset The abbey dress is ideal for
the uncorseted figure: provided, of
course, that proportions are good and
! there is no -superfuous flesh to be con-
fined by stays. On the other hand, the
woman of extra weight should consider
well the lines of her figure before adopt
ing this or any ohter new mode.
This delightful model is being devel-
oped in many different materials, but
the fabric par excellence is charmeuse
even serge, and there are dozens of love-
ly soft stuffs that are finding fovor, as
well as the more expensive fabrics.
The original style of the abbey"
dress has many notifications in the -
bey' dress of today. For example, the
pannier, or tunic effect, that decorote
many of the skirts are wide departures
from the straight skirt with wide sash
effect and long ends falling to the hem
But the general lines remain unchanged
The neck is low, with a broad. fiat col
lar and lace cascades. The collar is so
shaped that it can be transformed with
Robespierre effect by merely turning
1t up and allowing the lace plaitings to
fall across the bust. Nearly all the mod
fancy buttons. Sleeves are long and close
fitting, with frills of lace at the wrist.
Rich Color Combination.
A very much admired gown displayed
at a recent opening was of taupe char
meuse, trimmed with touches of bronze
velvet Another model in taupe crepe
meteor had beet red for its color note.
and this, of all the others, was declared
the smartest both for its simplicity and
rich combination of colors. q
Beet blood Is one of the new reds that
is sure to succeed. The tone has all the
lights of cherry red with an indescrib-
able cast of purple over its surface,
which softens it into the loveliest OF
shades.
This draped overskirt. no matter what
the style may be, must lie perfectly
fiat, and right here is where the little
dressmaker falls down unless she Is
an expert draper. While the PROPOSE
ton seems a comparatively simple one,
it really requires skilled hands to make
it a success. Unless the overskirt, with
most OF the drapery in front, is perfect
ly manipulated. and unless made OF sup
The material. gathered at the waist line
and then falling straight to the point OF
draping is the first principle that LEADS
to victory Draped skirts of all kinds
have a foundation skirt cut on exceed
ingly scant and narrow lines.
Skirt and Jacket Contrast.
One of the most approved styles for
early fall wear in the afternoon hasa
softly draped skirt and fancy jacket OF
contrasting material
A model worthy of description was de-
veloped in dull blue crepe de chine.
While the silly slashed coat was of taft
feta the same shade sprtnkled the gay
little flowers in soft red, yellow and vio-
let The underskirt Is very narrow and
straight The overskirt has the effect
of being quite full with all the fullness
from the sides brought forward and
looped up in front, where 1t is secured
with a row of crystal buttons. The
jacket is cut in one piece. with low
neck and slasned tails. At the waist
line in front is a huge velvet rose in
soft reds.
Another handsome model built on
similar white satin revers on the Jacket
run up to the neck and narrow into
sort of band at the back. The sleeves
are completed with deep cuffs, pointed
at the corners and running up ols-
lance Of several inches on the outside
of the rather snug sleeve. The outline
of the waist is indicated by a braided
girdle made of gray satin. At the clos
ing is a cluster of crimson flowers and
foliage.
Wearing artificial flowers with all
kinds of costumes from the cloth tailor
made to the filIniest of evening gowns,
Is reaching point a little less than
a craze. The fad has enjoyed a long
run on the other side, where the most
gorgeous Of velvet and silk blossoms
are to be had for a song. The style is
indeed a delectable one and the note
of color given by the rich blossom often
proves the redeeming feature to an
otherwise unattractive gown. The full
rose with just a few leaves Is the pre-
ferred flower Of the moment, and Is GER
tainly the most effective.