Bisbee daily review. [volume] (Bisbee, Ariz.) 1901-1971, 1912-10-27


OF social functions has begun and
evening wraps and costumes have at
tanned the time of their greatest i'm
portance. Every evening entertain
ment gives an opportunity to study
the styles of the season and il can
not be denied that they are unusually
attractive. At least half of the win
ter evening wraps are of brocaded
material. Some of the velyets with
raised brocade patterns are superb,
and such wrap, bordered with sable,
skunk or ermine. lie almost as expen-
siye as one made entirely of fur.
Quantities OF material are used. also,
in these new wraps. The straight,
narrow garment is no more, and a
modern wrap. off the figure, resem-
bles nothing So much as a huge bal
loon-like bag with slashes cut at the
sides for the arms. When the wrap Is
on, the yards and yards OF rich fabric
fall in lines OF elegance and grace,
but the cut of these wraps is hope
lessly beyond the ken of the ordinary
dressmaker, for despite its bagginess
and its fullness the wrap must take
on certain prescribed lines. and these
lines, in combination with the yolum-
nous folds, require a skillful hand
in the cutting.
No matter how full il may be at the
front, the back of the wrap must fall
straight as a plumb line from neck
TO heels, and the folds must sweep
forward and upward. giving a long
sloping. flowing effect from the bust
to the back OF the knees. Viewed
from any angle. also, the wrap must
appear narrow and tapeTing at the
foot, so that the edge of the gown
and the little booted foot are just
visible.
There is a decided fancy for Red
Riding Hood evening wraps Just at
the moment, and good proportion OF
the Paris models are in geranium.
flame. or a new deep-toned red called
dahlia, which is enormously fashion.
abba These brilliant wraps are, of
course, exceedingly striking, but one
or two of them in an assemblage Of
fainter tints are very pleasing
II one can afford it, fur is the trim
ming 10 be selected for the evening
wrap. Nothing is SO alluringIy be
coming as a soft fur collar against
the bare neck and shoulders. and
fur lends a decided suggestion OF ele-
gance even to a simple wrap. Chiffon
is, however. a modern substitute and
is extensively used in many of the
most charming models imported from
Paris. I'd
There are very smart three-quarter
wraps designed for afternoon wear
in taxi or limousine, these wraps be-
ing built of light cloth or silken fab
rio with trimmings OF braid. cord or
shirred puffings. A cape Of this kind.
made Of gold colored bengaline. with
bands of x-plaited chiffon over cord.
ing, was worn last week over a smart
bridge costume OF tobacco brown,
draped over with a tunic Of embroid-
cred crepe de Chine, also in the brown
tone. Brown satin boots with bronze
buttons and Louis heels accompanied
the costume. which was made COM
plete by a hat of brown bengaline
trimmed with shaded plumes
The high collar and the Directoire
collar are particularly noticeable in
connection with the new costume
coats and separate coats, many OF
the smartest models showing this
type Of collar in place of the more
familiar flat collar and reyers, shawl
collar etc. The new coat is very like.
ly to fasten smugly across the chest,
though il may be so cut that when
open the front rolls gracefully back.
Often ii not only fastsns quite up to
the base of the throat but has a high
collar OF fur clasping the throat
tight. Other models have the high,
close straight or rolling Directoire
collar ending on each side Of the chin
in front. Still others have fronts
crossing to leave a slight point be-
low the chin and having fiat or low
rolling collars beginning a little in
front OF the shoulders on each side
OF the front. Or. perhaps. the coat is
coliarless, though still high cut and
a little fur cravat or other fur Is to
be worn with IL.
The exceeding thinness and filmi.
ness OF the upper portions OF the
blouses or bodices belonging to smart
three piece costumes doubtless has
much to do with the raising Of the
coat protection across the chest
There are many frocks built up al
most entirely OF thick, soft, fleecyI
wooden material. frocks that seem al
tog1her too warm for any indoor
wear. but the frock OF the threepieceI
costume lis usually of exceeding
thnness in the upper part Of the
bodice
Sometimes the whole. bodice Is thin
and the sheer stuff evens runs down
into the skirt. but more often the skin
material runs up into the bodice In
some fashion. Separate blouses are
not Endorsed by most Of the French
designers. though several OF the great
houses show a few delightful white
blouses. but that does not affect the
fact that the practical costume blouse
will be worn by majority OF woman
kind.
There are more pretty biouses in