Devils Lake weekly world. (Devils Lake, N.D.) 1911-1914, 1912-02-16
BULLETIN TELLS ABOUT NAMES.
HISTORY AND AGE TO 40
YEARS. 4

YEARS. .t
Washington, Feb. 1.-TWO hundred
and forty-dve varieties Of cheese, being
about all the varieties there are, have
been classidd and oatalogued BY de-
partment Of agriculture food experts in,
a new bulletin just issued. It is the
first time such symposium Of cheeses-
has been brought together in one book:
in the English language. Possibly not;
one person in a hundred could name
more than ten kinds Of cheese. A gour-
met might know of fifteen, but it would
stump the most accomplished linguist
who ever composed hotel menu card
to name over twenty.
What maitre d'hote ever heard Of
Caerphilly cheese, Welsh tidbit, or.
caciocavallo, from Italy, or gova, an
Argentine Republic favorite, or mont
dor, or travnik, cantal, chascol de.
chaschosis, katschkawalj, SIERRA da es--
tralla, quero de hoja, or two hundred
other sorts equally obscurei Those
and others manufactured in the further
most corners of the earth, have been
discovered by government scientists.
The purpose Of the food expert in .
compiling the remarkable catalog Of
the cheeses, however, was not to pro-
vide copy for the newspaper humoris.s,.
duce literary curiosity, nor yet pro-.
but to show farmers and dairymen that,
we have been neglecting our cheese max.
ing opportunities. Many cheese that
that has won its way into the song and
tradition Of far-off countries NIGH: be-
revived in the United States and grow
to be an important and welcome arti-
Gle Of food.
The claim of the department is that
there is scarcely cheese in the world
that cannot be made in Americans
diaries. This has already been demon
strated in the case of common cheescs.
Formerly all the limburger cheese eat
en- in America was imported, and So
was sweitzer, or emmental, as it is Ger
rectly named. But the quality of lin
burger cheese now made in Now York:
and Wisconsin is so good that ,mpo.la.
tions Of it have entirely ceased, and the
same thing is happening in the ease of
emmental.
If the advice of the Department. is.
followed by the cheese manufacturers,
a few years hence an average delica.
lessen shop will have as many individ-
ual, combined, amalgamated and war
ring smells as the goat. Many OF the
attested facts in the catalog upset the
fine old traditions. Sor instance, the.
holes in Swiss cheese are not pushed
into it by laborers doing piece work, as
has been alleged, but, on the contrary.
the holes are caused by gas forming
when the cheese is green and soft. Bat
hands in French cheese foundry do.
punch holes in roquefort cheeses, to let
air in and hasten the ripening process.
The green, marbled appearance Of
roquefort is caused by mouldy crumbs.
mixed through the cheese when it is
soft.
Those who have insisted that camem-,
bert cheeses are aged in fertilizer store.
houses are shown by the catalogue to.
be entirely wrong. The little blocks Of
camembert, when in their final moulds,.
are stored in cool, airy caves in France.
1t is said that the French no longer
station fleet-footed guards and cheese
hounds at the mouths Of the cave TO-
pursue cheeses inclined to stray off the
reservation. The scientists studying
cheese have discovered that the smell
in cheese does not come from the skip.
pers banqueting therein as was once
thought, but from vegetable mould
not injurious to the human stomach.
Cheese 200 Years Old.
The average cheese is vefy shortlived,
A limburger cheese's entire youth is
gone week after its composition. It's
days are like the chan which the wind
bloweth away. In two weeks an ordi-
nary limburger has expired of the in.
firmities attendant upon old age. Any
one who has ever ridden home at night
in crowded street car containing q
passenger carrying home q chunk Of
six.week-old limburger will unanimous
" agree with this hypothesis.
But the saanen lives for years and ,
years. Its the regular Methuselah
among cheeses. Young ones, cut of in
their prime to furnish food for the
Swiss PEASANTS table, average years
of age. But these cheeses are mere
children. One saanen lasted 200 years,
and then became so sacred with age
that no human dared eat him at all.
Wedding cake, plum buildings and 9th
er articles Of food making some modest
claim to longevity persisted and fell
back into dust ere half his years were
spent. He wasn't cheese at all, in
the popular regard. He was an insti.
tuition.
It is customary for the Swiss to
make saanen cheese at the birth of
a son. The cheese may be eaten at
that sons burial feast. Or it may be
saved for the burial feast Of the son
of that son. In the proud household the
cheese occupies place co-equal with