New-York tribune., 1912-03-31
Smart Parisiennes Rejoice in
Their New Freedom of
Movement.
Paris. March 20.

It is astonishing how quickly the aver
| age woman has accepted the new fashions.
Looped and draped skirts no longer excite
comment. On the contrary, wherever a
! few women are gathered together there
Immediately begins a discussion as to the
best manner Of increasing tho skirt full
ness Of the gowns Of last season. The de-
signers of the new gowns, themselves
| seem surprised at their easy victory. show
ing clearly that all classes Of women had
wearied OF the straight, graceless breadths
that bound their limbs so long. A young
woman who, late In January. ordered from
an important house an extensive ward
robe for her usual visit to the Riviera. was
| astonished to find when she reached there,
| the first day of February, that the smart
| est women were already wearing skirts
with graceful trains and soft drapings, all
allowing an ease OF movement impossible
| to her. One can fancy her wrath against
the unlucky dressmaker who had made
such blunder in failing to read Alright
the signs Of the times Happily. 1t was
not too late TO procure more Of the ma
terial composing her trained gowns, and
she was able to find a little woman with
sufficient intelligence to split open the
back seam OF a train and cover the open
ing with a wide box pleat that shaped a
square train instead of the original pointed
! one.
In the case of another trained gown a
| fiat panel was laid under the opened
breadth, and a thickly pleated tulle friii
| trimmed the edges, resulting most sue
cessfuly, as the greater part OF the gown
was composed of tulle. Fortunately, the
short skirted gowns needed no alterations
since she had declared herself against ex-
cessive tlghtness during the fittings. She
was however. in possession of an elegant
gown Of black satin adorned with splendid
hand embroidery done on the gown, atter
| its fitting. quite too beautiful to be dis
Carded without a struggle. The sKlrt-
one OF the tightest ever made-had TWO
| seams. one on each side, nearly covered
by the embroidery. Cutting through the
embroidery, one seam was opened to the
top and arranged TO form tunic sKir'
open in front. showing lace bounced
| under dress: a narrow lace frill, headeo
by a shrred puff. trimmed the edges OF
| the tunic OF course the COrSage Is an
easy matter since the changes there are
of no Importance In this case the straight
chemise sleeves. richly embroidered, were
snlit on the outside, trimmed to match the
skirt and long, tight lace under sieeVeS
were added
So many of the new tailored skirts nave
one buttoned seam. set on any side fancy
selects, that a last years skirt can De
easily renovated by opening the skirt
wherever II is most convenient, over an IN
side panel Of contrasting color, and the
new material may be used In facings, or
IN belt and waistcoat
For n separate coat, one OF extreme
smartness is of black satin shaped on the
lines of a coat Of the Drectoire period.
Great revers. that pass over the shoulders
10 drop at the back into a deep collar
touch edges high on the bust. but do not
| close; below these the front is cut square
| like a mans evening coat, and at the PACK
! it Is half long and pointed. Extremely
! long and tight, the sleeves are hnished
with lace frils. This coat should be worn
only with a long slIrted gown, and 1t is not
! desirable for short figure. Worn with d
gown Of white satin, white crepe or voiie'
IT would form a toilet OF which nothing
| more could be desired.
! There is no end TO the little shoulder
! canes dolmans and mantelets that are
expected to assume prodigious vogue
with the warm weather. If one Is blessed
with a grandmother--or. better still, with
q Creat-Crandmother-it would be wise
move to persuade hcr to allow search OF
her old wardrobcs and trunks for the old
/ ,aca of fiud
The long ends Of old-fashioned fichus'
after crossing on tho bust arc carried to
| the back to meet under large bow with
| long ends White lace neck fixtures dis
PLAYED I'm the windows Of smart SHOPS
are large enough to furnish all the trim
ming necessary on corsage. proving a
! real boon 10 the economically minded-and
who is not? with variety Of these, and
| A lot Of sashes and belts, a change iu
! gowning Is easily accomplished. The mar
row belts Of shining vanished leather. IN
all tho pretty colors Of the season, should
not bc forgotten in providing the little
dress accessories that count for so much.
The gay colors among the new materials
seem dstressingly crude at first sight but
the cleverness with which they are handled