Evening star., 1912-01-22

bands The white is in an oyster shade,
which is very fashionable in Paris at
present. There are more shades OF
white than one would imagine at hrst.
Among them are those designated as milk
| white, chalk white, cream white. porce-
lain white and ivory white. The use OF
white broadcloth for the chemisette is
distinctly new, one of those original con-
| cets which give distinction to cos
tune The chemisette is quite un-
trimmed, but affords an effective back
ground for the lavallier or enameled
pendant which is the most fashionable
| trinket in the up-to-date jewel case.
| The model is designed in the smart
semi-tailored effect which the modish
one-piece frocks follow. Later on. when
the enveloping wrap is discarded with
the warm days Of spring. this one-piece
| frock will make an excellent street cos
| tune. This coming season the tailored
gown promises to be more IN evidence
/ than ever.
The excellent designing of the model
| brings out several Of the newest notes
| in costumes, such as the drop shoulder.
deep sleeve cuff, normal waist line and
wide bordering at the skirt bottom of
contrasting material. The diagonal clos
| ing line of the blouse is continued down
one side of the skirt and trimmed in
novel fashion with strip of the cloth
back satin and loops and buttons OF the
same.
! The waist pattern is cut with the body
draping over the other, and one-piece
| back, that is, in reality, a simple sur
plice model. The chemisette and lay
| over collar. cut square in back and
featuring an elongation Of one tapering
side outlining the diagonal front closing,
| form two more pieces. The sleeves are In
three pieces, namely. the one-piece upper
part. or sleeve proper: the deep cum ana
| the narrow trimming band on the latter:
The full-length sleeves are set In the
drop shoulder armholes without fullness,
| but fall with an increasing width, in bell
| shape effect, which is caught in by the
snugly fitting six-inch-deep cuffs. These
are trimmed at the sides with row of
small, nat satin-covered buttons. and
| edged with an inch-wide fold OF the
oyster-white broadcloth.
| The slight fullness of the bottom Of the
| waist is eased into a two-inch belt of the
| velveteen. to which the skirt is joined
| after the one-piece model style
| The skirt Is built on the lines Of a
three-gore upper part. made Of the vel
veteen and heightened by 16-inch bot
satin. The upper part has seams over
each hip. the back being cut on fold
/ of the material. The closing is effected
on the right side in front, necessitating
section is cut in two pieces. the seams
| being at the sides and continuing then
| to the upper skirt. 1t is slightly wider
at the bottom edge, where 1t measures
| TWO ydTOS dTOuuu Inc sue CiOsiHS LED
lures a narrow strip of the cloth-back
satin which continues the trimming Inc
| in the waist and meets the border nounce
| which is of the same material
The designing of this model is most
| effective, aand not the least Of its clever
ness is the extreme simplicity OF con-
! struction. The veriest novice may dare
to undertake 1t. while its good lines will
appeal to the practiced eye of the skilled
modiste who can note in the simplicity
little touches which lift the model from
| the ordinary.
Model No. is distinctive one-piece
gown designed in dark blue Bedford
cord and trimmed with cream-colored
agaric and having a chemisette Of fine
net with band Of filet lace.
] Ever so attractive are the. new
worsted fabrics for spring. prominent
among which are the broadwaled
worsteds. the ubiquitous serges. some
of which are smartly lined In white:
whipcord and Bedford cord. This lat
ter is much like a worsted corduroy in
| it's wearing The material Is to be ex-
! Iceedingly fashionable for spring wear,
and many of the leading Paris houses
| are showing advance spring models
designed in 1t. Consequently Bedford
cord in dark blue was chosen for this
we'll designed model. and the trim
mings featured in the collar, rounding
in back and forming widening square
revers in front. and the pointed v set
on the skirt are of cream-colored
agaric. which is also known under the
name of ratine.
| The waist is designed on exceptionally
good lines. The back is in one piece
and the front fastens over on the left
side, displaying the we'll known. but uni
versally becoming surplice lines. and is
formed of two pieces. The sleeves are
again the plain model at the top set into
the armhole without fullness and widen
ing out below. In this instance the arm
hole begins at the normal shoulder line
and the sleeve is set in under a simu-
| lated tuck In tailor fashion. The full
| ness OF the lower part Is caught into
"a deeply pointing cuf. The waist line is