davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
FRENCH FASHION NOTES

collar and cuffs OF sd pphire-coloreG
satin.
Toques and berets Of fur are displayed
by many Of the leading milliners. A
chic Deret of mink had d puffed crown
OF brown velvet An aigrette of brown
paradise plumage trimmed the side.
Plaid materials are extremely fash
ionable. pretty frock suitable for a
young girl was fashioned OF this ma
terial in tones of blue green and tan
a broad collar ani cuffs of hemst.tched
white mousseline de sole adorned the
blouse
Sashes OF net and chiffon weighted
with heavy tassels OF pearl Jet or
strass figure conspicuously on evening
gowns.
instead OF braid a heavy grosgrain
betting is used for trimming. 1t cones
in plain or variesated colors, is about
two inches VIDE and Is decidedly at
traGtive.
Elaborate buttons Of cut steel, enamel.
rhlnestones or pearl trim afternoon
gowns of MORE. velvet and brocade.
Long sleeves are especially popular.
When I..auv vi cnIHon or net they are,
as rule. shirred into cuffs. If made OF
satin or brocade. they fit snusy to the
arm and are oordered with fur.
Many gorgeous evening wraps of fur
or bro, ade are In the form OF draped
apes without the semu.ance of a
eeve. y deep collar. round, square
or oudly SNAPPED. 1als 10 the vast llne
II tie back
Satin or ve.vet flowers are also used
10 hasten Sal idr bants for he nech.
A lu.eiy afternoon rock OF white
inoesse!De &c soc an pax lace "as
tr.m-I.ed with tiny gel buttons. girdle
OF scarlet SATIN provided the touch of
- o..
itr... ashioneu OF D.ac1l velvet and toll
Iow4Ha The dire, tore lines, IL was ue
c.de4ly d.essy. The collar, cuIIs and
patcn lIockets wee OF bIa x MORE.
Ne" b.ouses are being J.sp Jed made
OF bro AIDED crepe dc cline. one oil
Ioh o.d-L.ae oo!or Was trimmed with
black chiffon and white lace.
= stylish waite satin HoieI had a vest
effect OF purple satin. Plaid silk is used
for trim IN on pain ch.i4on Dlodses.
Ne!3 lo,e,y Was an evenias Gown
suitable FOR young girl. ale of white
san. pate t~nc OF turquoise
blue mousse ne de sole edged with
narrow fanI OF or. stal tube and bead
b:oidery effectively trimmed the
frock
Rose-colored serge. with trim minss of
back satin as used for cnar.n.ns
coat for child
Another hey coat, fashioned OF
crea .--co ored serge. had d collar of
b,a : satin bound With the SIRE neatly
stitched 10 'Fe satin and tri n!ued with
F'ren knots.
S at >loaxs for -enng wear are
fashioned Of ve.vet and lined With Per-
san satin
Fringe IF silk chenille and beads trim
tunes of embroidered mousseiine de
soc.
Large square or oval buckles Of cut
steel, Jet ena e or bri!l.ants adorn the
b acf evening shoe
Rosettes OF ostrich fronds conferred
with sirays of cross-aigrt ties are a Sc
f!vored trim ming. closely rivaling the
buckles
Bro AIDED chiffon. crete de chine, vel.
vet. satin and moIsseline de sole APP
pear IN ere gorgeous designs - an
ever Some reflect the hues Of the opal,
wnie OF ers duplicate the wonderful
co.orns Of the Ieacock or the Persian
rugs.
Many all-black hats OF velvet, with
low crowns and brood brl rs. simply
trimmed with black or white ai~-a.'e.
are worn. ELOISE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Millinery Points

TIME eveS-interestins story OF the hat
holds the attention Of womankind
- from dawn to sunset. II changes
with TIE hours of the dav. the days OF
the week. the weeks of the season. And
because OF its comparatively small cost
il appears in numbers in the ordinary
womans outfit
Georgette is emphasizing the seal
brown color in millinery. 1t bids fair to
supplant the olack-and- white and blue
and-white alliance that was SO strong.
The tam-o'- shanter crown on a fat
brim is another type of hat launched by
this well-known milliner. This sug-
gests a change from the beret cap. yet
has all the becomingness Of the cap
worn by the peasants in Spain.
Malne hats are another innovation.
The lightness of weight will commend
them to women who cannot wear heavy
chapeauX.
Just one extreme hat that takes W
back to Empress Eugene. or. still fur
Their to the Vatican period has a fiat
top. There is just a little gutter to sug-
gest a crown. in which is laid a wreath
Of flowers The hat is raised from the
lair by a rose-covered bandeau. and
velvet ribbons tie il securely on the
head
The velvet facing is prominent. fire.
quently combined with moire and fab
RIGS that are excellent mutations OF fur
Trimming has moved toward the
front. the stiff cockades. brushes and
cord ornaments being particularly ia
Vored for hats TO be worn with direc-
toire and revolutio airy suits.
The brim fares away from the face IN
many types. and huge buckles are no.
tceaDle. l.oid!ng scarfs on PRACTICAL
has for fall and winner.
Ribbon loops and bows are still good
and inexpensive. while aigrettes have
been highly favored for afternoon and
evening.
Velour hats are in great demand and
the leading miiiners IN Paris are show
ing them with smart Ornaments OF
piCo:-eosed fable RIBBON.
Mushio DOM Shapes with tam-o' -Shanter
crowns aIe the important word In lie
mill.l.ery Story.
Sailors in many varieties OF velvet
q :. piash will be favored fo' waking
suits. If the sht wing OF well-known
house be an Indication.
ostrich fantasies are used FOR after.
noon hats. Wings rank next In I'M
portance. the wHite vulture. goura and
magpie furnishing the greater part Of
the immense supply demanded by MIL
liners.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

ty. The smartest jackets. this season,
chi!ds Russian blouse coa;.
Olive-green velvet Is used for the
model with the laced DO Ice Beneath
the velvet overblouse Is guimpe Of
cream mousseine de sole yelled with
olive green. The full s'eeves are caught
in al the wrist vi h tight cuffs and
finished with a fri.l which falls grace
fully over the hands.
A lord Of dull gold Is used to lace the
bodice. The high col ar Is bordered
with narrow band o. black velvet
a pointed owe SKI TT a n d with dull
gold buttons falls over a closer-fittIns
foundation of tie velvet.
In the next design model wears
the smart jacket CORE ponding with
the olivegreen frock.
1t suggests the norfolk coat. A
belt extends across the back and pass
es through Sits at the side. fasten-
ing beneath the front of the coat.
The collar and cuffs are of black vel
vet Dull gold buttons fasten the
front Worn with this costume is
large fiat hat of olive-green felt and
black velvet
Extremely chic is the frock with the
dark vest effect II Is fashioned or
corbea u-blue velvet. The collar, chemi-
settle and sleeves are of white NOUS
seine de sole yelled with blue. Pur-
pie satin forms the broad collar. vest.
cuffs and sash girdle.
The latter is drawn about the waist
in soft folds and tied to form knot
and two loops a the side. The drap-
ed skirt Is caught up at the right.
side
Designed to wear with this frock is
the Russian blouse coat fastened with
three diamond shaped buttons. The
collar and cuffs are of white .velours
de laine" bordered with purple vel
vet.
The large hat is Of purple velvet
trimmed with white ana pupil aig-ettes
Velvet C stumes dema nd the Ions
share of attention this season. so start
your costume immed!a ate y.
The first glance t.: the mirror will tell
a tale Of beauty, r p yng " tenfold
for the little til AM expense necessary
TO produce the lovely toilette.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

II WAS during stroll along the
Cha Fps Elysees that the wager
u was made. This was that the three
most attractive costumes would be in
6lack and white. and they We're
The prettest costumes OF many and
varied descriptions in that evening
walk were OF black trimmed vita
white or the reverse.
Came tripping along a dainty miss in
q trg little walking costume earr.ed
out in white serge relieved with touch
es of black satin 1t was really a two
piece costume, coat and skirt; but the
coat was cleverly arranged go that II
could be worn in place OF a bodice IL
desired. 1T was cut on the Lines Of
short-Waisted bodice. but Tad a cut
away extension falling below the hips
and having the flare in the back. which
is one of the most distinctive notes OF
the season s coats.
Broad revers and a rather broad col
lar. whica could be turned up close
about the throat. were faced with black
satin. and deep directore cuffs showed
the same treatment and were trimmed
with oall buttons OF ivory-tinted bone
Directly down the center front of tue
d
vide, Oh which was sewed at short in
tervais the ball buttons The material
Of the skirt folded over the satin on
each side with a broad tuck. stitched in
place with a double row of heavy
stitc hing. The back Of the skirt was
laid in an inverted box pleat stitched
almost to the hem: but there it was
ieft open to give greater freedom for
walking
deep frill Of pleated lace fell
over the revers almost to the waist
line and the coat Joined in front with
three large ball buttons. Her hat
was a large one of black satin roll
ing Sharply from the face in front
and trimmed with a bow of maine
pIaced well to the back on ore sid.
A black taffeta frock. made with
the bodice and pannier draperies in
Guided in the one piece Joined at the
raised waist line with a rather broad
girdle. has straight panel, eigh.
inches wide. extending from the
waist line down the front to point
below the knees This was decorated
with an intricate design worked with
white soutache. and similar panel
fell from under the pannier in the
back
The bodice opened in a V over A
yoke OF fine white lace. and showed
narrow revers of silk braided with
white. Short sleeves also had cuffs
OF the same and undercuffs of lace.
The skirt was quite pain. finished
with deep hem. With 1t was worn
a large hat of fine felt. turned back
on the left side and in the fcvn,. h
two huge clusters OF black-and- white
aigrettes.
Alignting from her motor was ii
lovely woman enveioped in a long
wrap Of creamy silk sh-nturg OF the
rougher weave. which fell TO the
hem of her gown in long graceful
lines. Above the waist line the wrap
appeared to be made of black satin
covered with heavy white lace,
which formed kimono sleeves, cut
wide and finished with turned-l ak
cun of So tin. Brood revers of satin
were folded open, revealing a white
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Shoulder Capes on Cats and Wraps

sealskin. 1t is cut in one with 4
h'sn collar that can be rolled over
fiat revealing a satin lining This is
cut with two points, each finished
with a tassel of silk.
The coat hangs in loose straight
lines TO its hem, is Tapped diagonally
across the front and fdstens with
large fancy buttons. having the but
tonhoies set in pointed tabs stitched
with several rows OF heavy stitching.
Deep cuffs are also of sealskin
On an evening wrap OF old-blue
charmeuse the shoulder cape Is of
gold colored satin. heavily trimmed
with gold lace. 1t is cut to tit the
Shoulders closely, with straight
edgr In the back and deep points in
the front. which are held together
with ornaments of gold.
Loose half sleeves have deep cuffs
of the same. and curious pannier
drapery is shirred in around the
skirt Of the wrap, which is other
wise plain below the waist line.
These are only few of the hes.
models; but re0-emher when planning
the evening coat or wrap 70 give due
consider" tior to tho shoulder cane
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

SATIN with a rounding point that fell
lrum the waist line for about ten inches
Large braided buttons were used to
tasten the coat and also to trim 1t
down each side of the skirt.
Tie skirt OF the gown was plain ex-
cepting for an inverted double box
pleat in the center OF the back.
A triple cape. made of three small
capes graduated in size. Is placed
over the shoulders of topcoat of
heavy gray cloth. This also has Il
standing collar. which can be laid
fiat with wide-open revers squared
off on the edges he coat fasten5
with two large cioth-covered but
tons. trimmed With bone, q little be-
low the waist line; but it can also he
buttOned close up around the neck In
cold weather Very ep cuffs-and
these. by the way, are feature on
MANY OF tn, new lode s-are of
black velvet Tapped over and held In
place with buttons. The coat is
otherwise plain, showing no pockets
These, however re on the inSi@e
An evening wrap or sable broad
cloth hos a Come thot eXt"7dS well
below the shoulders. and this is Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

~ HOULDER capes are to be dis
t.nctiVc note n fashions song dur
~ ing the comi z season. When out
for a morning stroll on the Bots. or In
me evening IN the cafes and at the
'pera. one cannot help but be impressed
With the strength of this fashoi.
very chic costume was noticed the
other day OF blue Sc. ge trimmed with
black satin. heavily braided and hav-
-ng a Robespierre collar and reyers OF
chamois suede.
The coat was belted In at the Slight
y raised waist line with a narrow black
patent leather belt, and from that point
IL fell in long. rather full lines almost
10 the knees. where il was cut away to
a deep curved point n the back.
a cape of back satin, SHALLOW cape.
Just turning the shoulders. oIened in
front to revea! the reVerS. which could
be lad back fastened close up
al ound the threat, as the wearer de-
sired
Cuffs Of the braided satin finished the
long. close-iittins sleeves, and en- each
side OF the front and directly in the
center of TIE bach was tab Of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
IN BLACK AND WHITE

gown underneath. These. too. were
of black satin. making d sharp con-
trast to the silk of the coat and that
of the gown. The wrap fastened
with a large button covered with
satin and lace. Her hat of white
lace, matching that used on the coat.
was trimmed with a long black plume
held n place with a jet ornament.
These were but three costumes OF
black and white, but many more were
evident with the two tones combined.
There seems TO be no doubt that the
fad for this combination VII hold good
during the coming season as it has for
some time past.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
MADE OF VELVET AND FUR
,<"HE north winds do bow" and
with il comes q demand for pro-

<<"HE north winds do bow" and
with il comes demand for pro-
II lection against its frOst-laden
embrace. Heavy coats. unless provided
with high collar. do not keep the neck
from being exposed The hands, too.
should be protected. In grandmother's
day the muftier of knitted wool and the
homeiy mittens of the same material
answer d the purpose. but they were not
beautiful
The woman of today is more fortu-
nate Sic has a variety Of lovely neck
pieces and muffs TO select from.
Large scarfs of fur or material bor-
dered with fur which compl tely cover
the shoulders are displayed along with
sma collars of fur which just encrc.e
the neck, Muffs are large. fat, 70 md
or square. entirely composed Of fur or
combred with velvet, satin or broca L.
Brocaded chiffon or vevet Is used for
many Of the most attractive scarfs.
Iaupe-colored brocaded velvet fashions
the med ! pictured here. band Of
mol fur borders the edge. The large
fiat muff OF the same mater al Is adorn-
ed with two bands of the fur
Taupe-colored satin or velvet can be
used successfully to fashion this stole
or nun
The fur hat collar and muff are of
skunk combined with corbeau-blue vel
vet.
Those admiring the small hat OF fur
VIII ind this model especially be -om ng.
The crown is of fur with a turned Up
orlm or the velvet. Fat ornaments Of
JET are used to trim the brim.
very charming Is the collar of skunk
fastened a, the side with a broad bow
OF velvet.
The muff IS rounded at the end and
bordc. ed With band of fur. Sapphire
~ and dahlia-red velvet are equally
effective when combined with skunk
FIR
Brocaded velvet and chiffon are dis
pla yed in great variety of colors and
deei~ns
Paris has placed the seal Of her ap-
prevail on this material.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

A French novelty called wet cat'' is a
plushlike velvet with q finish which
gives a notified effect to the pile.
pretty double-faced tweed is being
used for autumn top coats. Many Of them
are three-Quarter length.
For hair ornaments, half bands Of vel
vet or jewels extend across the front.
and are hidden In the hair at the sides.
Heavy silk tassels are seen on some Of
the new suits, finishing u cum DO mt or a
skirt drapery, even on draped revers.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

The woman who chooses one-p zee
dresses and long coat for her winter
outfit cannot 60 wrong.
Taffeta evening dresses have simple
draperies Of chiffon caught On the skirt
with clusters OF flowers.
The flowing frill effect for long sleeves
are as much liked as ever. Usually. they
are of lace or net.
Some Of the new chiffon blouses have
basque effect this basque formed OF tabs
OF chiffon embroidered.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

certain Wool velvet !s one of the
smartest Of cloths for fine tai ored suits.
For day dresses OF an Informal char
acter, taneta Is a strong rival OF char
mt use.
me long cutaWay coats and coats with
the high waist line retain their .suprem-
acy.
Small braid ornaments made Of q satin
loop and button effect are used for
decoration OF suits and serge street
dresses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
SEAS0rABLE DISHES.

SUNDAY MENU.
BREAKFAST
Graves
Frie-f G m 81 Mgsh
Broi'c! BACON
G m
Coles.
DINNER
Potato SOUP with Cn'yes
Honensde Pickl,s celery.
Roast 1urk. IcuiSon Je
Sweet Potatoes. Seal on 4 Tomatoes.
Escarole salad
Irsie 90 hler.
Coffee
srPrEI.
Duck sailed
STUFFED Ba1ed P,Tpcr
BASIN Powder n g its.
Grape Cream. Sponge Cake.
A HALLOWEEN prErSTF.K SUPPER.
served in Kit ben or Cellar.
o,; MN - =; a t., -.
Raied l . ato,s
tabl . asl
Fruit. NutS rapoorr
FOR TIE CHILD2EN'S HALLOWEEN
81 PPFR.
Cookies lshsrci Il pumokin NTH eyes
Of CUR n nd mo1ta and
us II cir n.
'irapc JU 80.
Apple Pumpkin. i;tle low sp- - hoi-
iov'd 0ut and nie ms de-
ChesfnnIs aud Marsh n lpwe ITO he
toasted over tn lighiei candlrl
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Fashions and Fads.

The present draped fashions require
long skirts to be at their best.
Fwo-coior effects are going abe ad OF
o-ack-and-wh IL effects in favor
Fancy bort chiffons and creme de
chlne are III Sc "!dths and lengths.
LAces may lie enriched r. touching up
- pattern with ribbon VOL. in colorz.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Grape Relish.

Flick from the stems seven pounds q
grapes, rather underrpe. and separate
the pup from the SIX ms. Put the So MS
in a preserv ng kettle over the IRE with
just enough water TO prevens Their burn-
ing. Pla.e the pup in anotaer kettle and
cook uni the seeds loosen. Press lnrDugn
a sieve and add TO thl sans with "A AL
pint "a Sar. three Iourhs OF suaar ala
a teas pounru. each cloves, a sp &c dld
cinnamon. Boz. unit. tLick Ia Is fac
to serve with game or roast m, ats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

Brick red is a great novelty of the sea-
son Among grays and browns are
dark gray and taupe
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

A great many of the new pile fabrics
have skin effects. In other words. they
initiate fur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

Now we have the purple sweater-some-
times alone sometimes In combination
with other colors.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

The dark serIe dresses for practical
wear b u fair to be liked even more than
last yea.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

We veteens. plain ard printed. appear
In the new simple afternoon and street
dresses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

Ratines and sponge cloth are now being
shown in checked, ped and paid eff
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

Beaded chiffons. with bead buttons and
bound buttonholes, are among fash
IONS favorftes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

White diagonal skirts are worn with
jackets OF white naatelasse, trimmed with
skunk fur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

Butterfly shaped wings edged with
ostrich are seen poised on the fronts Of
hats
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

A great many OF the new suits have yell
low satin Innings. Vivid blues and greens
are also favored.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Grape Butter.

Pulp ripe or half-ripened grapes ana
cook the pulp until soft enouoh to rob
through a colander. Add the sans and
cook until tender. Add SD. ar. ailowin7 -
each pound OF fruit half poLId suoac
or more II the GraTes are quI green.
Cook until tn ok. STIR ng often. then can.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

Some Of the new fur coats have collars
aid hoods-a concession to the constant
use oil the automobile
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Grape and Orange Tam

10 six pounds OF grapes allow two
pounds Of raisins, four pounds Of sugar
and four oranges. Cut of the thin yell
ow rind Of tie oranges and chop dne,
together with the seeded raisins. Pulp
the grapes and cook until soft enough
TO rub through q colander. Add to the
skins cook fifteen minutes, put in raisins
O ange peel, juice ana sugar and simmer
gently unt l jellied.
EMMA PADDOCK TELroRD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27

Ornaments made Of self-cording are
seen on tailored suits otherwise perfect
y simple.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
sugar.

Put the grapes, washed ana sorts d.
into a preserving kettle and adj a II; 10
cold water, but not enous h to cover. Cook
owiy until tie skins break. mash ng and
stirr.I o from time 10 lime with a WOODEN
spoon. When Softened and at the oo.l.ng
pc nt,. pour Into a new coarse 1e'.y bag TO
dram Measure the JU-Ce a.-d 20 "a
quart a .oM "A quarter pou:d Sranu dte1
sugar. Bo-l a tour minutes. tura
lntu hot ster.l.zed bottles and seal wh.ls
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Venison Jelly.

Put into a preserv ng kettle one peck or
ripe grapes, one quart of vinegar. one
quarter cupful zach c.oves and St.ca OF
cinnamon. and bring slowly to a bob
Cox until the grapes are soft tnen
strain through Jelly bag Measure the
lulce, cook twenty m nutes. add an g .ual
weie HI of sugar, DO ten IN n ates Ion, ef.
pour in glasses and sal. Serve VITA
meats
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-27
Spiced GrapeA

For spiced preserves. measure skin ard
pulp as before To seven pounds allow
three I'D a half pounds sugar and
pint OF strung cider vinegar. Coos for
aIout h2II ell hour. then ADD one large
tables poo4lf14 ground cows AM Two OF
Cinnamon. Cook for some the logger
un al cons stency re4u re4. then put ~
a stone pot or jeuy g.-s-es- It's is excel
lent to aSIse AlIo Eo.eI Anton or game
- any SOFT.