Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1912-11-19

was we'll known long before that vege-
table was ever heard Of, even - .
poisonous "frult."
As . matter OF fact, oil chowder 10
good; New York chowder IL good enough
for most people, and New England
ohOwder Ia good enough for any one, for,
to paraphrase what DR.. Butler said OF
the strawberry, "Doubtless God might
have made better dish, but doubtless
God never did"
But the submission 1t is only that
that this favorite article Of food should
have been an outcome Of the simple re-.
sources Of our ancestors 10 natural
enough. From Governor Brsdfords
diary We learn how abundant" were
both fish and shell fish, and We know
that they were abundantly used, but iu
spite of the evidence, neither in New
England nor 10 New York, nor indeed In
America, did chowder have its origin
for it We may again give thanks to
Paris, az for other culinary successes,
though 1t is neither to Paris nor "cor.
don bleu" that we owe this delectable
dish. 1t comes to US from the rough
shores OF Brittany, where, locally, the
conditions were much the same as In
New England. Here the receipt was
discovered-0r rather evolved-from
necessities, which were also so nearly
the same that It IL not strange the dish
has been mistaken 10 one of our native
products.
The shores OF Brittany are washed by
the same ocean that bathes the shores
OF our "land of the sacred cod" and
many of its people, like our own, have
been fishermen, from generation to
generation. At some time In the his
tory OF these toilers Of the sea, . time
long ante dating our first Thanksgiving
the first chowder was made An expert
ment in communism ~ we'll AZ in cook.
ing. The idea may have first occurred
to some Breton goodman, or to bis
thrifty wife, that We cannot tell, but
huge black iron pot, known as "Chau
diere," or translating literally, as "hot
pot" was brought out on the shore, q
fire buildsd underneath, and to 1t each
fisherman was invited to bring contri
button, while the farmers brought vege
tables to add to the flavor and quantity
and no doubt the good wives added such
simple seasonings "a were at their com
mand, and it 10 certain that those who
partook brought the best seasoning OF all
as in the case with our modern" chowdel
parties" hearty appetites. At all events
this wholesome and sufficient meal, pre-
pared in the great "hot-pot," became AZ
institution In Brittany, and, after time,
the utensil used In It's preparation gave
the dish Its name. Some people have
believed that the word is derived from
that of "Chow. chow" meaning "a mkt
ure, !" and that 1t came to US, first OF all
from England, but 1t 10 undoubtedly Of
Breton origin and took It's name from
the humble "hot pot" In which 1t wal
first cooked. Curiously, 1t Is seldom
mentioned at all In English books OF
cookery, and then usually az an Amsri
can dish, but to the Americans 1t cor
tainly came from France through some
chance settler or thrifty Huguenot.
Though almost every New England
housewife knows q method Of preparing
it, one that had the warrant Of fisher
men may be given here, and while thu
same, made with milk In place OF water
is perhaps the most common OF al
methods, the latter is tho 'real chow
der" of which poor New Workers know
70 littlel
For fish chowder with CLAIMS the
procedure Is the sams) the fisherman
will choose, II possible, . paddock. Il
this is not to be had, he will ask fol
"hake," and, last Of all. will be choose
cod. A fish OF about four pounds Is al
excellent size, and must not be denudee
of the head. In fact, the 6shercool
will, II he may, take more than one
often several, for he knows that thu
head affords the glutinous mattel
which adds "body" to the dish. The
fish cleaned, and freed from the bones
is laid aside, while the latter, with thu
heads, are put into q kettle by them
selves, and covered with five pints Of
water, boiling hot. The contents Of
this saucepan must be allowed to sim
mer, and simmer only, for one hour, the
amount Of boiling water being kept con
slant In the meantime, and then the
preparation Of the chowder may begin
Perhaps, In unconscious tribute to the
original "chaudiere," the fisherman will
select for this purpose only black iror
pot, which he will first set over the fire
to heat. he has, to be sure, seen chow
ders, so.called, made In tin sauce pans
but Of these be will have none. Wher
the pot 10 hot, into 1t he will cut into
small pieces about one-quarter OF Q
pound OF salt pork, and with these hs
will fry, gently, to q yellow, not darl
brown shade. two or better three or four
onions, sliced thin. The onion and
scraps he turns into bowl when done
and keeps them hot close at hand, while
The iron "bot. pot' is drawn to one side
and into 1t 10 put layer Of fish, which Il
we'll seasoned with salt and pepper, and
lightly dredged with -four. Next come
q scattering Of onion, aud few "scraps'
with n little OF tho fat. A layer Of sliced
potatoes follows, and again the fat and
onion, and so ON until potato and fish
are used. OF sliced potato there should
Do somewhat over quart In slices an
eighth OF an inch thick. The last layer
should be Uf these, and over 1t must bs
strained the water In which the bones
and heads were prepared. Now tue pc,
Is pushed back over the fire once more
and allowed to cook slowly, always, and
without stirring. until 1t is found tina,
the potatoes are quite done, when the
tish will be- done. also. The fisher-cook
will never be induced to cook bis pots.
tues first, because he knows the sticky
mixture that will result will be most
unpalatable.
Now the "real chowder" Is ready to
serve!
Place eight or ten "Boston" crackers,
or better still. half as many "hard tack"
in the bottom of the soup tureen, which
has been well-heAted, and pour over
them tho boiling chowder.
As has been said, the method 10 the
same with CLANS excepting that, az the
latter cook far more swiftly than fish,
the potatoes may be boiled before add.
ing to the chowder. The clam ''liquor''
should be most carefully saved aud add
ed to tho boiling water with which. the
soup 10 prepared.
Here you have simply "Fisberman's
Chowder," and, a. that 10 most certainly
"the real thing" % such the writer has
no hesitancy 10 Offering it.-Ex.