davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-09-08
New Fur Shades Replace Black and White Com
binatiOnS---- and Velvet Fashionable
for DreSSy Hats - Maline Lends an
Airy Suggestion to Winter Models.

important a consideration as the new
tailored hat for street wear with the
tailored coat and skirt suit.
In early October, before the real So
cial season begins, the theaters and res
taurants are filed with fashionable folk,
just returned from the mountains and
the sea and eager to take in all that
is new and interesting in town. Nobody
dreams of dining or supping in tailored
garb nowadays, and with the inexpensive
taxi at everybodys beck and call, it is
not necessary to trail handsome gown
and wrap through the subway, street car
or other conveyance. So the dainty gown.
covered by an equally dainty wrap, must
he matched with an elaborate hat suit
ably festive in style, and this outfit is as
imperatively necessary as the smart coat
and skirt costume for day wear, If one
is to take any part in the gay AFTER
dark life of the metropolis.
Black and White-so long the supreme
favorite in millinery, has been displaced
by the new fur" shades, which promise
to be "a veritable craze this autumn.
Evening star., 1912-09-08
The Hands in Summer.

A SMALL piece OF absorbent cotton put
"A in the palms will absorb the per-
spiration that prevents many women
from wearing gloves with any comfort
during the summer
Before putting on gloves on a warm
day. wash the hands in tepid water. dry
gently, dust with glove powder. one at
time, so as to have a clean hand for
putting on the gloves. This will keep
the hands In good condition for hours.
Evening star., 1912-09-08
carries out the brown and taupe shades
Of the hat most artistically.

carries out the brown and taupe shades
of the hat most artistcally.
Oblong hats are now the special craze
of the woman who adores chic and dash
ing headgear rather than the ordinary.
round shapes which are sure to be becom-
ing-something that cannot always be
said of the more eccentric styles. Just
now the oblong hat has the day and the
oblong effect may be from side to side. or
from back to front as one pleases
though perhaps 1t would be more literal
to say from front to back. for most of
these hats have the look of being elon
gated toward the rear and trimmings
sweeping back Of the hat increase the IL
lusion. 1t is very pretty woman, with
long and swanlike throat, who looks
well in one of these Observation-Disclosures
back models. and the spectacle Of the
short necked woman with one OF these
hats resting on her shoulders at the back
is apt to be deplorable.
The Oblong hat that Is poised sideways
is another matter and many Of these
shapes are exceedingly chic, as instanced
In the marabOu-trimmed bicorne pictured
today. This hat fits closely down over
the hair. the brim rolling up all around
to make a frame for the face. Over each
ear the brim 1engthens out into a point
the point at the right side being very in
conspicuous Wh1le that at the LETT Is pro-
nounced. This hat is in the fashionable
eclipse colors spoken OF above; the
crown and inner brim being of fawn col
ored moire silk while the under brim is
faced with brown velvet, the soft brown
ish marabou binding the edge all around
At the point of the bicorne, at one side
is an ornament Of grayish brown silk
grapes This hat accompanies a tea
frock Of lustrous brown fabric-a supple
weave Of worsted and mohair much fan
cied for autumn costumes-and the little
frock is made very dainty by a cluny lace
collar and cuffs and a sash OF striped
brocade in crimson, brown and amber
coloring. Buttoned boots of patent leath-
er with tops Of dull calf-the approved
street boots for fall-accompany frock
and hat
X !:
The ordinary felt hat Is at a discount
these days; for most of the striking fall
models seem to be made of silk, velvet
or fur-or of all these materials combin-
ed. Rarely is hat made of one solitary
fabric. If 1t is, 1t is sure to be trimmed
lavishly with some other fabric, as. for
instance. the hats of shirred taffeta trim
med with ruches Of pleated tulle, and the
hats of supple velvet trimmed with firing
ed-out taffeta-though these come more
properly among the tailored models and
are not under consideration in a chat
about theater and restaurant headgear.
Moire Is far and away the silk favorite
and moire crowns are combined with
Evening star., 1912-09-08

Trouville millinery, this season tuile and
malines have been more popular than
wintry materials like fur and velvet
This exaggerated liking for tulie is bound
to have its influence on winter millinery,
and many of the new models show
iange brims or trimmings of tulle or ma
lines. This is especially true Of the hats
designed for restaurant wear. and to the
woman who lives in town the new the
ater and restaurant chapeau is quite as
Evening star., 1912-09-08

HE most popular
hat Of the mo-
ment in Paris is
the enormous pic
ture model OF
tul1e. Dozens OF
these airy creations
have been worn
at the races. They
were a feature of
drag day a n d
though fur always
has it's place in the
Evening star., 1912-09-08
FEW years ago the only work dress

FEW years ago the only "oFh VIZ
~ obtainable was the wrapper. Many
4 = a woman who desires always TO
appear neat about the house. and VINO
believes in keeping her figure just as
trim when at her work as on dress-up
occasions. abhors the wrapper.
Separate waists and skirts are hard
to keep together while doing housework
dressing sacques and wrappers look un-
tidy, and the one-piece dresses tnat are
neatest are hard to wash and iron.
There is now on the market a fine as
sortment Of attractive work dresses. Most
Of these are made side-closing and are
trimmed with bias band OF material.
The plain gingham has band or plaid
while the striped or plaid gingham mas
bands Of the plain material. G1ngham
is a durable material for the work dress.
II wears well and becomes softer ana
prettier with frequent laundering. Blue
chambray is pretty and launders easily
A good design for work dress Is the
following: Make the waist any style
desired, finish all but the bottom, try
ON. draw a narrow band around the
waist line, and adjust the fullness. Pln
the band in place. take OH the waist: anS
sew the band exactly as pinned. Finish
the bottom Of the band with beading.
Make the skirt any style desirable, ano
finish the top Of the skirt oand WIN
heading Now lace the skirt and waist
bands together and you have one-plece
dress that can be washed and ironed
TO get a skirt to hang properly sew
the band on and try on; then get a
yardstick and stand 1t on the GROUND;
yaia nf
around the skirt where 1t touches at
the top. Take off the skirt and lay it
on the table. and measure thirty-slx
inches from the chalk marks, ana one
will have a perfect-hanging skirt.
TO get a sleeve to fit properly take
rho shoulder seam and measure one
half Of the armhole; then place the
seam Of the sleeve one inch to the
front of exact half, and you cannot
fail to have a good-fitting sleeve.
A kitchen apron made OF gum tissue,
bound with white tape Is one of the
most serviceable kinds. When soiled
it can easily be washed and dried. 1t
is also a useful apron to wear when
giving the children their baths. This
gum material can be purchased in sheet
widths.
An apron made Of white oilcloth saves
the housewives dress from sOiling and
dampness and needs no laundering. One
woman has made one from a yard of
lightweight oilcloth and has bound 1t
with blue tape It is neat and tidy
and when working around the
stove reduces the likelihood of the
wearer catching fire when leaning over
to lift cooking utensils. When wash
ing clothes 1t is indispensable. When
1t gets soiled one has only to wipe 1t
or with damp cloth.
A Kitchen apron or gingham or calico
which protects the whole gown by reach
ing from the middle Of the chest to the
bottom OF the skirt is easily made by
Evening star., 1912-09-08
Bag for SchooIb0oks.

TO make pretty school bag in which
books are to be carried, use brown
corduroy and trim it with leather, and
have corduroy strap. Soft leather may
be used to bind the edges. Initials cut
out of leather and stitched to the bag
will prove an ornamental feature,
Evening star., 1912-09-08
a Mapa bout Trimmed Bicopne
With Odd Lines

appears with each new season. new
movement Of the brim or new arrange
ment of trimming bringing the hat up
to date. The Georgette sailor is famous
and, of course, the secret of its popular
tty lies in its wonderful becomingness,
just as the secret of the popularity of
Virots smart little hats lies in their in
effable chic and dash.
A Virot hat and Georgette hat, both
new models for autumn. are illustrated
today and are fairly indicative of these
two qualities-grace and dash. The
Georgette hat is an enormous roll-brim
sailor shape with a moderately high
crown Of tan moire silk, the becoming
brim being faced with dark blue velvet.
One handsome white ostrich feather
trims the hat sufficiently. The Virot hat
has all the jauntiness and piquancy of
millinery turned out by this house. 1t
flares up at one side to show the waves
of the coiffure and slantS down at the
other side to shade the eyes and make
charming background for the curve
Of a pretty cheek. 1t is made also OF
moire silk and faced with velvet, and all
the trimming-one superb shaded plume
is massed against the brim, an ornament
of cut steel holding the plume in place.
This hat is all in shades Of plum color
and pale pink and matches a bridge
gown of plum-colored eharmeuse. The
Georgette hat accompanies a smart coat
and skirt costume of navy blue velvet
the belted coat having a turned-back
rever faced with brocaded velvet and
opening over a chemisette of cluny and
shadow lace. Buttoned boots of black
satin accompany this stunning and dis
tinguished costume
This arrangement of trimming under
the brim is the possible forerunner OF
tiptilted picture shapes, much trimmed
under the faring brim, such as were
in favor twenty years ago, though 1t is
not probable that millinery will ever
again go back to the absurd little crowns
with small head sizes which made hats
perch on top of women's heads IN such
grotesque and foolish manner. The
large head size is the secret Of the pic
turesque hat, as millinery types of every
era have attested.
Evening star., 1912-09-08

utilized in the fastening of coats and
wraps, while simpler affairs are made of
mere buttons, covered with braid SOU
tache, silk or self material. and having
loops or bound buttonholes to match.
Applique patterns of soutache are still
in favor and the very latest note from
Evening star., 1912-09-08

pHE newest and smartest garnl-
lures for tailored suits and
dresses and for afternoon and
evening costumes are being de-
veloped in braids and beads
each in its proper sphere, of course--in
effects that are at once both novel and
chic.
The use of braid naturally follows the
seasons revival of broadcloth and other
smooth-surfaced goods for street suits,
wraps and morning frocks. since these
trimmings appear 10 greater advantage
on the plain material, and they are being
manufactured with such elegance and
richness that their vogue Is assured for
some time TO come. Accordingly, the
best models show on coats and skirts, "a
multiplicity of braided bands, outlines and
motifs in which the wonderful fertility of
design and combination gives a broad
range OF choice. Wide braids have an ir-
regularity of waviness introduced into
the weave: narrow braids and cords are
wrought into galloons and medallions.
richly interviewer with gold silver or
bright hues 10 give the requisite color
touch TO a dark-toned costume, to make
Evening star., 1912-09-08
will be an UNUSUAL variety in
fabrics used in fall millinery, in


fabrics used in fall millinery, in
cluding corded silks. These are in
charming two-colored effects and in
metallic combinations like gold and sill
YER gun metal and copper, brass and
steel. In some of these fabrics uncut
velvet is initiated to perfection, while
others are quite heavily ribbed. looking
more like corduroy or bedford cloth.
Moire in black and all leading dark
shades will be profusely used.
Maline hats are great favorites, and
are shown in black, white, corbeau blue,
"copper" forest brown, combinations Of
peach and black, old gold and national
blue, turquoise and white, and black and
white.
Crown bands arranged in wreath, shell
or ruche effect are popular for wide
brimmed hats of the mushroom order
They are made of ribbon measuring up
ward of five inches in width, and are
often completed by tall-looped bow or
a pyramid or tree-shapad ornament of
the same ribbon, and are used on hats of
velvet. velours, piece silk or plush.
Faille ribbon finished either with heavy
corded. plain or fine picot edge is used for
smart fiat cravat bows. for crown bands
and also for brim bindings on street and
walking hats of velvet, yelours and felt.
Moire ribbons will be much used and are
In all widths and tones. Charmeuse and
liberty ribbons, which fash and scintil-
late so that they seem to radiate rides
cence, are used in great quantities on
dress hats of velvet. plush and moire.
Their brilliance is often yelled with ma
line, tulle or fine chanti.ly, which effect
is specially pleasing when the ribbon is
selected in a vivid shade of gold, gera-
MUM pink or Gainsborough blue.
Ribbon ruches, pleated. frilled or
shirred, showing picot, pinked or seal
loped finish at the edges, are used on
street and afternoon hats. Smart street
hats having ribbon for their sole adorn-
ment are decorated with large quill,
wing or butterfiy-shaped bows in the
making of which yards and yards OF rib
bon are employed
There is fad for contrasting feather
band trimmings on hats Marabou bands
will be more prominent than ever, being
employed in widths ranging from one to
six inches, and in great variety of color
ing. Like ostrich bands. they lend them
selves to being trimmed with incrusta-
tiOns OF small handmade flowers of beads.
leather, chenille or crocheted ornaments
Of heavy silk or worsted.
Bands of ermine. moleskin, chinchilla
and sealskin will also serve for hat
ornamentation next winter. in combina-
ton with velvet, moirs, satin, chiffon
cloth and heavy lace. Those that have
to consider prices will find splendid imi-
tations of all these types of fur in the
new velour and pushes. These when cut
N into StriDa will ho
Evening star., 1912-09-08

one of the new fabrics for the au-
tumn motor coat is blue-and- white
piald with Q weave suggesting the
honeycomb.
Evening star., 1912-09-08

and mounted on a bandeau. On this
bandeau is a big bow of soft, wide satin
ribbon. The hat is of black velvet and
is bound with narrow grosgrain ribbon
in imitation of the braid-bound effects
on women's tailored wear now. An or
nament of ostrich QLills emanating from
an imitation head made of scarlet fla
mingo plumage gives color to the hat.
Another model with a white plush crown
and brim lined with blue velvet has a
shaded blue and white plume arranged
over and under the brim. second plume
encircling the base of the crown. These
short thick plurnes curling around the
brim at one side bid fair to be a feature
Of fall millinery, and the style is becom-
ing to almost all faces.
/. Fearful and wonderful are some of the
feather trimmings evolved by authorita-
tive milliners. Were not the milliners so
unquestionably authoritative one might
dare to call the feathered effects freaks,
but before such achievements coming
from master hand one may only stand
in awe. For example. restaurant hat
by Suzanne Talbot has wide brim, turned
fatty back against the crown at front
and back, jeweled ornaments holding the
brim fast to the crown. From the scoop
at either side emerges huge white os-
trich plume, which drOops over the edge
Of the hat and falls on the shoulder, CIV
ing the wearer of the hat something the
appearance Of mountain ram with huge
curled-down horns. Some of the small,
chic hats designed for evening wear are
almost hidden under enormous paradise
feathers, which sweep backward from
handsome metal or braid ornaments.
These paradise feathers are now the ex-
elusive privilege Of the fashionable elect,
for their monstrous price prohibits their
use by any but the favorites of fortune.
A very small hat trimmed with paradise
aigrette is just now more distinguished
than a huge velvet model loaded with
any quantity of ostrich feathers.
This, to to be sure, Is not gainsaying the
! beauty nor the present popularity Of the
wide black velvet hat, which seems to
have established itself as a permanent
accessory Of the eternal feminine. The
soft. velvety background is SO enticing in
effect against hair and face, and is made
Evening star., 1912-09-08
TYPES OF THE NEW BRAID TRIM

TYPES OF THE NEW BRAID TRIM
MINGS.
the stylish combination of black and
white or to add the bit of metal trim
ming now so fashionable. Chenille band
ings and wooden braids come in striking
effects. while astrakhan braids are some
times used to take the place of fur and
in narrow widths and delicate colors are
applied to evening gowns.
Elaborate frogs. both single and double
Of braid. silk, satin or self folds, are
Evening star., 1912-09-08

Two new fall models elaborately
trimmed under the brim are pictured
One is Vatican model in a fiat plateau
shape, which is tipped up at the back
Evening star., 1912-09-08

can be had by the yard for use in yokes
and sleeves. The pattern in shadow lace
often follows the vogue of tinsel effects
and is outlined with threads of dull gold
or silver.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

What a comfort to the nation
Is a pure food ministration
On an up to date and scientific line,
When purchaser is able
Just by looking at the label
The spurious to distinguish from the nne
Yet the decorative posters
or the histrionic boasters.
With adjectives all fervidly aglow.
Must remind us on occasion
As we yield to their persuasion
That the label doesn't guarantee the show
And the foliage narcotic
That exerts a sway despotic
Ger so many as in smoke il drifts away
Is so splendidly embellshed
That at sight IL must be relished
For the beauty Of the bands and boxes gay.
Alta precioso ina.
Colorado concertina"
With picture OF Spanish dancing star,
"Buena berZa. vincedora,
Don QuiXote. grandifora"-
But the label doesn't make a good cigar.
Washington Star.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

A. NJ Mason. farming near Ca
naan, Ne. was badly crippled with
sciatic rheumatism due he says to
uric acid in his blood. "Foley's Kid
ney Pills entirely cured me and also
removed numerous black specEs that
were continually before my eyes. -
Foley Kidney Pills are a uric acid
solvent and are effective for the ,ari-
Gus forms OF rheumatism. Sold by
Conrad Stafrin.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

Securing Interior Oregon, picking
out the best routes for flying squad
ron of automobiles that will make
the run to Lakeview late in August
for the convention Of the Central
Oregon Development league, is a
party of men headed by c. c. Chap
man. secretary of the Oregon Devel-
opment league. This path-fnding
trip is occupying two weeks of
strenuous road-finding and map-mak-
ing
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

Preliminary plans are going for
ward for making the Pacific North
w=sJ Land Products show. 20 De held
iu Portland Novemhs- IS-zs. the big
Esst and most successful land show
ever given west of the Rocky Noun
tains. The management Is getting in
touch with commercial bodies and
individual exhibitors Of the territory
% De represented and promises Of
liberal support are being received.
Every district OF the Northwest
states has an opportunity i1 this
dirt show for valuable expIo.ts-
tf1D
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16
Thing Worth Knowinn.

A young man who was paying courl
to a girl for the first time ate some
onions, and. not wishing to go 10 his
friends house with the odor Of onions
on his breath. be asked his sister what
he could do.
She secured a small white kernel
and, handing it to him. said. This will
take the Odor Of onions from youI
breath" The young man ate it re.
marking:
Gosh. that burns, What is it,"
That's garlic" replied his sister,
Philadelphia Times.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

Oregon and Washington nursery
men, az their meeting Just held. de-
termined 20 wage a vigorous cam
paign for members during the com
ing year. 50 that when the American
association % Nurserymen meets IN
Portland next June. the visitors win
ee met by strong delegations from
the two Northwest states Il Is hon
I'd 90 swell the enrolment OF the or
eSon-WashinEton association o. Nur-
serymeu u 500 hy next June.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

sherman county farmers have
come 20 appreciate their experiment
farm. located az Moro Many az first
doubted its utility but such valuable
help has been given liz conducting
inquiries into better methods o. aEr.-
culture that they are now thorcuehrr
interested A recent farmers 5av
brought hundreds Cf visitors 90 the
station
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16
A Nc. stnrs.

A girl in bargain rush got hurt
They bumped her nose. and they tore her
skirt
But nice house surgeon took her case
Put bargain bandages on her face.
Put bargain liniment on her back
And sent her home in a bargain hack
Next day she was back with three girls
more.
Who wouldn't patronize such a stores
Washington Herald
The automobiles who will crowd a
team OF a narrow highway is full
brother 10 the teamster who is deaf 10
chaufeur's toOt for half the road
and keeps his horses in a slow walk
to tantalize tie fellow behind him
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16
\ Pain Remedy

Both internal and external is needed
daily by almost every family. Keep
a bottle of DR.. Bells Anti-Pain Good
for all kinds of bowel troubles. Ex-
ternally for cuts, burns, sprains and
all pains Strongly antiseptic. Sold
by Conrad Stafrin.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

Who has tried Dr. Bells Pine-Tsr-
Honey for coughs colds. grip or aav
throat OF bronchial trouble. Get a
bottle today. Lock for the Bell On
the Bottle sold By Conrad Stafr.n-
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

A Portland woman has lost string
Of beads. one of which had imbedded
within it a perfectly preserved ant.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

1t is the best, ask your neighbor.
Look for the Bell on the Bottle. Sold
/ by Conrad Stafrin.
Polk County observer. (Monmouth, Polk County, Or.) 1888-1927, 1912-07-16

And then no telling uhat-u-I zsz
sou use Dr.. BelTs Pine-Tar- -Ho-er
The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1912-12-05
SALTWATER MINNESOTA THURSDAY DECEMBER 5 1912

hoped to see the Father and be
known as His son in some future
heaven, but now he hears with the
hearing ear, Arise, shine; for thy
light is come.'' Throwing aside his
beliefs of heredity, age, and disease,
he rises as son and heir in the pres
ent kingdom. nd with grateful
heart opens his consciousness to re-
ceive the heavenly good that his
Father is giving here in the eternal
now. In the familiar words of Bar
low-in our Hymnal,-
Why search the future and the past?
Why do ye look with fearful eyes,
And seek. far off. for Paradise?
Beneath thy feet. I.ifes pearl is cast
The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1912-12-05

Evidently Teddy isn't losing much
sleep over the election results. At
least, he is right on the job iu the
Outlook. with editorials of the same
old snap and vigor. It dosen't mat
ter what you think of the man,
whether you believe him to be a
moderu Captain Kid-or worsezor
wether you believe him to be the
man whom Old Diogenes wore out
his lantern in quest of, there can be
no question that Roosevelt is MAN
all the way through, man of to-
day. And-as such, it behooves you
to read the editorials he is writing
for the Outlook. For instance, The
Story Of The Balkans in the Holli-
day number of this magazine.