Shenandoah herald. [volume] (Woodstock, Va.) 1865-1974, 1912-06-28
ParisianS
: Reject the
Pannier for
Low-Hanging
Side Draperies
q ARIS.-As Is generally the case,

" depressing that no one cared
to risk wetting her newest
spring costume; on later day
the dress display atoned for the first
disappointment. for do not the major
ity Of women attend this spring func-
ton to admire and to criticise new
gowns? Fit and chic were several
tailored costumes Of black silk,
trimmed with pleated frills. with short
belted coats, their skirts flaring smart
ly and rounding away from the front
waist line. The newest frills are made
from strips Of silk torn on the thread
and travelled into an inch-wide fringe;
thickly pleated, they have messy
effect that is extremely pretty. The
narrow belts of shining black or col
ored leather show more elaborate fast
enings than those Of last season. The
front Of one Of these little belted
coats slanted from the belt to the
shoulder, opening over little waist
coat Of deep French blue satin Three
little Jet buttons showed, as it Tapped
diagonally at the top; the rest OF the
closing was hidden under the side
edge. A large Louis XIII collar, with
cuffs 70 match, Of white embroidered
linen, finished the neck and sleeves.
With these black silk costumes, black
or white hats are worn, while color
was supplied in the parasol.
With Bare Throat.
The Louis XIII collar leaves the
throat quite bare. Indeed. all women
have quickly discarded the tall. thick
ruffs that finished the neck Of the first
spring gowns offered at several Of the
big houses, though these same ruffs,
and larger ones, are retained for
street wear. For coats finished with
a fat collar and wide, fat revers the
"Cyrano" collar, made Of plain white
linen, is extremely smart. 1t Is gen.
orally attached to the blouse. or cors-
age, worn under the coat.
Long wraps and coats Of taffetas, in
all colors, were in abundance, and 1t
is in these the pleated, shirred and
fringed frills and pufflngs are shown
to great advantage. Long. sleeveless
wraps, which appear to be made with.
out single seam, are delightful with
this old-fashioned trimming. A spe-
cial form OF wrap IL evidently made
from one breadth Of wide silk: clasp
ing the figure closely. It closes invisi.
bly, in front. and the sole fitting ~
quired Is achieved on the shoulders,
where the surplus material Is cut
away under a Tapped seam. Sits cut
in the sides to accommodate the arms
are covered with trimming. Long
straight silk coats were worn also
with enormously full sleeves drawn in
to wide, shirred bands, easily drawn
on and off when desired.
Effect Of YouthfuIness.
A charming, not too obvious youth
fulness marks all the gowning Of the
moment. With the return Of the long
waist line and the tight belt. that
woman is happy who has preserved
her slender waist. With this new
betting the hips are allowed to round
ever so little. Is 1t the thin edge o.
the wedge? The unwillingness to en-
large the hips by reducing the wais'
| is seen in the refusal to accept thu
| panniers as first presented. and WON
en- content themselves with low, hang
ing side draperies, that are called b,
that name. The panniers Of the pas
held an air Of stateliness quite in
compatible with the manners and hab
its Of the women Of to-day. The new
woman is not like the old-and. nat
urally, she must gown herself differ
emily; also she puts her gown on in ,
| different manner; she steps into II
instead Of passing her head through
the opening. as was the custom wheel
we were loaded with an amount o
underclothing which now seems In
credible.
With the low cut corsets Of to-day
cut which women will be slow to re
linquish-the greatest problem Is tn
bust supporter (soutien gorge). Man
sorts are offered in the shops, tempt
ing in their beauty and In their az
parent usefulness. but while slende
person may be quite content wit
many Of the models women of full fif
ures have decided. after long exper
ence. that the best garment OF thi
sort Is q fitted corsage worn over th
corset. It may be as beautiful AZ on
please. Strong white linen embroi<
cred In raised design IL practical
the same may be said Of open Emf
lish embroidery or q nne batist
strengthe1ed With Alloyaf tnohink.