The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1912-01-10
Colonial Grandeur
In Present Modes
Picturesque Lines and Sumptuous Fabrics-An Era
Of Ever Increasing Magnihcence
in the Fashions
in the Fashions


DY the time this Is read the opera
season will have begun, and from
the standpoint Of appearance it
Is perfectly safe to prophesy brilliant
season: that Is, so far as the artist
ccuturlere have Lent their services. The
spleudor Of evening gowns has not been
surpassed within the memory Of any
OF Us: rather are present modes REM
if1iscent OF the grandeur Of Colonial
days-with their brocades and silver
lace and sable. And this recalls a re-
cent wedding where the bride wore an
ancestral gown which was strikingly In
accord with the present modes.
The picturesque lines were Of q
period designers have been recalling
for their newest creations. Sumptuous
fabrics composed this priceless heir
loom The quilted satin petticoat was
bordered with sable and the rich bro
cade of the bodice coatee draped into
court train,s and was embroidered In
small uosegays Of varicolored roses
The suuare-eut neck Of the closely fit
ting bodice was finished with frills OF
fine English point applique over two
hundred years old The richest crea-
lions Of present designers are founded
on this period Of sumptuous gowning.
a tradition Of the Colonial days when
loyal subjects looked to royal court
koT guidance. 1t was IN later demo-
cratic tines that the India muslin came
INTO fashion, which Is recorded as COM
posing the wedding gown of a later
bzfds IN the line Of succession to this
ancestral gown. she Of the India mus
Eln preference being the one break IN
1he succession Of seven generations.
Howbeit. all the magnidcence dis
played this present season cannot be
ancestral, and couturiers aim to OUT
zhiue tradition. Doucet has bent his
efforts to creating royal magnincence,
as instanced IN one of his recent
groups composed of green and gold
velvet brocade drapes the figure close |
y. coming upon the corsage in d. |
aEoua1 line The super part Of the |
bodice has bands Of gold lace In bretelle
effects. edged with hounces Of the Lace
Whichs form sleeve caps. Green satin
fdFn19 the lower part Of the bodices
over which the gold lace Grapes down,
the band on the right being finished
with an emerald ornament tasseled in
gold. a distinctive feature Of this cre-
alton is the train. formed of contrast |
ing fabrics-one-kaf being Of the bro
eade ending n narrow point: the
other half having the same pointed out
line, but composed Of gold lace banded
IN green satin, which drapes across
from one side IN seeming panel effect,
but IN reality ends, as said before, by
composing half the train.
t1FeEX woman Is tO1hllS 4ot cOA1tC-
thing original and distinctive this sea-
son, the two virtues which obtain royal
cathst not easy to acquire in the pres
ent nae1anRe OF modes. Variety in
countless and endless design there is,
but even that which is termed clever
and original is very apt to be distinct
II a reminder Of, or a close kin to-
something which brings us down to the
commonplace, and vet very little
touch often evolves distinction from
the mundane. A clever New York girl
who is keen at these discriminate TONS
ana consequently noted for her chic
has lust returned from Paris with q
ret which has received it's quota Of adj
nira4fon from her friends. IT Is a
wide affair OF marine-blue velvet on
straight nat lines. with round crown
trimmed with a satin hand and bow to
one side in a simple and girlish effect.
II Is the hrim which shows that touch
Of something different. A soft huff of
ostrich in the same shade of marine
blue which edges the hat is inserted
befweeu the brirn and facing. Besides
it. distinctive originality an effect Of
fhis sort is admirably adapted to soften
IRE lines Of too slender face.
Marvellous materials are shown for
evening wraps. Besides broadcioth,
which now comes In lovely reversible
effecfs. there are the satins with enn-
bossed velvet figures; new material
called Riefette cotele, which is like the
velvet OF japan and comes in two
toned effects: and material called
aEaric. which greatly resembles me
Turkish toweling ana comes in all cot
ors. Nearly all wraps are sim cut with