Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-20
MODELS FOR
THE AMERICAN WOMAN

VEN they who are the most de-
voted followers of fashion are
somewhat surprised, and per-
haps a little piqued, that skirts
have not suddenly expanded to
great width, and that, instead of radi-
cal changes this new season, SO many in
novations are rung upon the old themes.
Evening dress, even less than daytime
| clothes, is marked by startling treatments
hut, nevertheless, there are daring little
touches about them that do not appeal
at a first glance.
1t is very evident. scanning a colec
ton of new models, that the chief and
foremost object of each individual de-
| signer has been to put forward not only
a new feature, but more new features
than his or her competitors. and then to
play upon each feature ad libitum. The
results are so mystifyfng that the lay
person is apt to give up i'm despair trying
to solve the puzzle of fashions and follow
her own sweet will in the matter. At that
one is inclined to think she would not he
so far astray, for individuality is a strong
characteristic of the new modes. if not
the keynote.
shirred Oh. gathered back. which, though
designed for all soft materials. is particu-
larry pleasing in evening gowns where
the back is extended into a train. 1t
consists. this new feature. of ample
width of material gathered across the top,
two. three, four, or as many times as de-
sired. the gathers evenly distributed, then
the section hung from waist line slightly
ftaI of
skirt proper to a point halfway down its
length. From this point there are numer-
Gus ways of arranging the remaining ma
terial The most general is to continue 1t
in it's own straight. even, graceful folds
as originated at the top, but it is also
susceptible to a drapery, simple or COM
pick.
BY way of example, a white charmeuse,
with top of cream-colored shadow lace
has this sort of back, shaped by cross
over bands to a point at the center, then
edged all the way down one side with
ermne. and all the way down the other
with a double fluting of chiffon cloth.
Then just at the ankles the whole back
is caught up in under, from which point
it is allowed to traverse its way uninter-
ruptedly to rounded tip some twenty
inches below the hem of the skirt
The evening gown sketched Is worthy
Y
season. Its material is satin brocade and
it's colOr-well.' how can one describe the
blue of it, which, though called mer-
maid blue, is absolutely indescribable.
| The nearest approach one can make is TO
| say that it is a cross between handsome
| turquoise and the blue that occasionally
| flashes from Mexican opal. The top OF
| the costume, except for the little bib. is
| entirely of shadow lace, and the drapery
| is made with beautiful jet ornaments.
| There seem to be two distinct lines
! followedsi Sin this matter of evening gowns.
| One is to lend brightness and glitter to an
! effect through the medium of crystal
trimmings which are more in vogue than
| they were last year, and the other TO
| substitute richness and gorgeousness for
the light and glitter by the use of odd
/ color combinations.
| Purple and red are blended, just
| they are in the ripe plum, and all the
/ violets are matched up, one way or an
| other, with the reds. Deep yellow that
| holds both red and brown are blended
| and actual browns touched up with black,
| and blues and greens are brought to-
| gether more wonderfully than all others
with usually, some embroidery to effect
| the harmony. The gold and silver and
| the crystal-sewn nets make up whole
Ioverdresses and cOrsages, and, to add to
! the dazzle. crystal buttons finely cut are
| sprinkled plentifully about.
| Another turn of the fashion wheel is
| the lavish way in which chiffon is being
| employed Yards of il are required where
heretofore one has answered. Perhaps the
| whole front of frock. apparently com
| plete without it. is beautifully draped
| with chiffon of an entirely different color,
| or. again. a pannier-like drapery shlrred
| very full at the top is affected of it and.
as likely as not. it pouches over band
of fur at the lower edge, for nothing
more interesting along the way of fash
ions schemes has cropped up with this
new fall regime than the many methods
! of combn n furs With tranSrarencieS.
! Already the DIRE smakers are absorbed in
the subject, while the principal designers
have given much of their attention to 1T.
| No bit of peltry is too small or insignia
cant to be made use Of, and none too eX-
| travagant to find a place with chiffon
cloth or a fl ,msier looking marquieette to
effect a pleasing ensemble.