Arizona republican., 1912-09-25

after La Mode,-not that for one moment, M. Poiret desires any one to be out ot fashion, but he and all other really great designers know that we must consider fashions from the standpoint of ourselves to be well dressed in the truest sense. We will still be straight of line in the general effect of our garments and no woman desires to make herself outre by appearing in anything voluminous, but, whether those lines shall be graceful and shall render the special woman joy to look upon, or whether they are so exaggerated that the human figure becomes grOtesque Is quite within the individual power to determine. Fashion is generous. We are to have some plaits and some plain skirts for the tailored costume. We will wear a great many draperies and the draperies will take variety of forms. In general way long skirts are advocated for indoor wear during both afternoon and evening, but trains vary in length from the pretty round skirt that can be worn in a small room without inconvenience to the really long train that always has a certain dignity of its own. It is each woman's privilege to choose the costume that is adapted to her own needs and suits her own person. ality. We are not held to one fixed style. The slender slip of a girl is provided for but so also is her mature, larger propor- toned mother, and, If each will only wear the gown that belongs to her by natural right, the season will be fascinating one. CHOOSING APPROPRIATE MATERIALS.
 Too often it is the girl or woman of limited means who makes the mistake of choosing the inappropriate material or costume. Women of generous means usually are also women of wide experience. The foolish little girl, working for her living, who thinks she Is Tn the height Ot fashion because she wears a gown made after the latest model, has much to learn. Her wealthier sister, whose costume she has in mind, chooses the sturdiest ma terials and the simplest forms for hard usage. She does not go upon the street gowned as for a reception. Fitness is the first law, and unless fitness is borne in mind no woman is well dressed. ust now when we are offered such fascinating spectacles both of materials and colors, 1t seems especially necessary to keep such facts in mind. It is so natural to be car ried away by the beauty of piece of silk and to forget for the moment that serge Is better suited to the office or the school room, and it is so unfortunate to spend the limited amount unwisely that the opening season seems a peculiarly appro- priate time for serious thought and req consideration. Dress is not a question of frivolity. It is all-important. It is said of the great Henry Ward Beecher that he replied to the oft-quoted state ment, Clothes do not make the man.: "No, but when he is made, he looks the better for being we'll dressed" And so long as we remember that to be well dressed is to be ftly dressed, the axiom is to be borne in mind
 Happily the new suitings include a great many very beautiful materials that are also durable and serviceable. Cheviots, hop-sackings, Dutch homespuns in mixed colors are exceedingly smart. There IS a great deal of camel's hair cloth shown and what is known as wool velours is exceed ingly beautiful yet in a quiet unob- structive way, serge and whipcord are real standbyes and will continue to be worn For the simpler suits, jackets that reach to the finger tips or to the wrists are preferred with simple skirts and materials of the kind mentioned made up in such a way are real delight.
 There is a great deal of brown shown and it is promised that there will be a great deal of mole color worn while there are new blues and new reds that are fas- chatting, but nowhere is 1t more important