Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-25
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ALL SORTS OF COLORS, LINES
AND DETAILS IN NEW COATS
For Wraps in Class by Themselves-The
Coat With Long, Straight Lines Is Pop
ular-The Materials Being Used.

designer charges well for his name and
his ideas, and when these expensive items
are added to the cost of velvet and satin
and fine fur one has sum total appalling
to the average woman. and yet 1t does
seem as If a large proportion of these
very costly models might be successfully
copied by many a tailor or dressmaker
who would have been incapable OF orig
mating them Even in this case the beau
tiful materials would make the coat ex-
pensive, but it would be far less than
that asked for the imported garment.
With some of the materials fancied for
evening coats this season even the SIM
plest of lines take on great smartness
The coat of the long. straight lines,
crossing in front to fasten with some
sort of big ornaments below the waist
line at the left side, curving away from
the front at the bottom and trimmed
only by some stunning kind of huge col
lar and cuffs. offers excellent opportuni-
ties for the copyist, for one can obtain at
almost any Of the reliable pattern houses
a good pattern by which the foundation
of such a coat may be cut, and. clever
and original ideas for the details OF col
lar. cuffs, fastenings. etc.. can be picked
up on any tour OF inspection among the
imported models.
material for the general utility evening
coat, and 1t would be hard to find any
thing more serviceable and chic for the
uses to which the average woman must
velvets and satins, costly and perishable
stuffs, are all very we'll in ones private
carriage or Limousine. and for the woman
who does not need to lengthen out the
term of service of her clothes, but when
she must go to ones evening functions
in a street car, or even in a hired cab,
and must make an evening coat DO LOT
all sorts of wear and for more than one
as one can choose. The quality should
be the highest. 1t pays In the long run
not to economic on this point me
satin feutre. which, while exquisitely
is an excellent coat material, but any OF
the good satins will do. and If not warm
enough may be helped out by an inter-
lining in the upper part OF the coat. TINS
lining and in no way connected with the
satin, so that the fow Of the latter may
not be in the slightest degree impaired:
One OF the enveloping black satin coats
white or plain color, having an enormous
f1oppy collar of the satin and no trim
mings save handsome fastening and or
naments of silk cord. cord covered, the
satin or passementerie; isan admirable
thing for the woman who must be prac-
teal, and if well made has an immense
amount of style in addition to its other
virtues. Many Of these black satin coats
are slightly draped. caught up in folds
to the point where they fasten. and so
swathed around the body and held in
rather more narrowly at the bottom than
above.
Broadcloth in lighter tones is still used
for pretty evening coats. but like every
thing else is prone to ally itself with vel
vet and fur. Some very pretty youthful
evening coats of broadcloth are made in
the exquisite new reds with big collars
and cuffs of skunk or of white fox. and
there are smart coats In shades Of green
trimmed with black fur.
White satin and broadcloth are popu-
lar materials for evening coats; velvet
and brocaded silk are newer, and are
not be considered.
These new embossed velvets on the
sheerest and most clinging of crepe or
satin or chiffon grounds have been seized
eagerly by the evening coat designer, and
exceedingly beautiful models have been
built from them. The velvet may be In
one tone or two tones. may combine gold
or silver with its color scheme. on
shot ground Of chiffon or crepe.
One delightful model is green bro
caded velvet with a deep pointed collar
at the back of ancient gold embroidery.
Ornaments of the same gold embroidery
ornament the sleeves and the revers and
cuffs are of blue satin.
Another model Is of superb chiffon vel
vet trimmed with chinchilla- There is a
shaped trimming at the front Of dull sill
yer metal embroidery. Around the bot
tom Of this coat is wide band Of chin
chilla and there is stole effect of the
chinchilla, which can be folded across
the chest to give extra warmth. The
rounded bottom OF the front reaches a
point well below the knees and the back
of the coat falls over the skirt in a point
ed train.
Another model in taupe velvet is trim
med with skunk the fur forming a square
collar at the back and sides while revers
of white satin run up to the fur collar
which ends a little below the shoulder
line at the front. The shawl revers of
white satin are edged with black satin
bands and blue satin buttons and loops
are set on the edges of the white satin
revers. The lower part of the revers is
finished with a large black satin rosette
and tab ends. which are finished with
steel bead fringe. The wide sleeves are
edged with bands of the black satin trim
med with buttons.
A third model is Of satin and has an
enormous collar at the back of dull gold
lace. The gold lace also forms the trim
ming Of the cuffs.