New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-09-22

buttons in which glmmer tints of red
and blue. lust where the waist blouscs
over the belt a conventionalized flower
design is worked out In blue and red
worsted. II is one OF those odd, I'M
expected touches which lend such DIFF
tinction to a frock. The woman who Is
skilled with the needle can supply any
number Of these style features which /.
diferentiate the frock from the great ma
iority sold in the shops. They are the
little touches given in the speciality shcps
which make a gown carry proudly The
sign with the three figures. There are
the low shoulder seams, carrying out
dictate OF the season. and the deep cuff
There are. likewise. individualtstio
touches on the cloth dress depicted III
the sketch which lend 10 it distinction
and charm. The French model which
was imported for one OF the exhibitions.
was fashioned from sulphur hued WOO
sponge. The embroidery Witch sounds
the new note was carried out in shsdes
Of tans and browns and inclosed an in
sert of tucked material. There was the
deep yoke, which IL another one Of the
features OF the seasons modes, the io~
shoulder seam and the deep cuffs.
Pleats are also used 10 give the little
house gown OF elk an up-to-dste appear
ance. 4 charming frock was deveiope1
from a soft. pinkish gray charmeuse, VIII
the underskirt in accordion pleats anc
the overskirt falling IN long, sinuous
drapery over il. The waist displayed thu
cherai.ette OF old lace, with the sleeve
purYs OF the same lace. II was delight
fully simple, but very dainty and effect
i've Black and white combinations on
this order are very we'll liked.
There are numerous opportunities for
clever combinations Of material and color
IN many of these house gowns, and the
woman lacks imagination who canno,
concoct from tho gowns OF yesteryear an
up-to-date creation by a skiltul combine
ton of materials. A simple model, which
Illustrated the charm OF this combina-
ton, was OF blue and white chsrulcuse.
The skirt was blue, and fashioned on the
straight plain lines which are so appeal
ing TO the majority OF women that they
decline 10 switch their allegiance. tn"
waist lire was also slightly raised, ar -
most becoming 10 about 20 per cent OF
womankind. The waist was Of the white
chsrmeuse, opening in the front and
SHOWING a vest Of tucked net trimmed
with lace. The long sleeves were con
nected with tire skirt by two-inch bands
OF the blue charneus@. The collar. which
was deep and round I'm the back. was %
,he blue charmeuse. the broad fronts e1-
tending 20 the waist line and the round
corners finished with a half-inch hem.
Charneuss is often combined with clIif-
fon TO give excellent results. a fetchins
frock OF taupe charIneuse boosted COM
bination OF these two materials. The
vogue for pleats showed itself in the &C
Gordon pleated chiffon panel in the front
OF the skirt. which terminated At the deep
hem and was edged with taupe velvet.
The accordion plested chiffon appeared
again on the sides eSsed with taupe lace
The waist was plain, with deep square
collar Of taupe velvet--coilars, oy the
way, are The ornamental feature OF many
a smart waist--softened by smaller col
Ia: OF white lace. The sleeves were ME-
ished by a cuf, Of tho velvet
Satin and It's many allies must not he;
overlooked in fashioning these comfort
able afternoon gowns, which are really So
useful In the wardrobe Of the well gowree3
woman. 4 particularly effective frocN
was fashioned from gray double facecl
satin. The skirt had 4 broad plain box
plest in tho front and In the back. which,
was hanked by machine pleatins extend
ing and Joining these two box pleats. Tne
waist took on the shape Of jacket with
cutaway fronts and belt OF the material
ending In a bow in the front This jacket
like blouse was severely simple, with
revers Of the satin opened TO display Al
shallow vest and collar Of white char
meuse finished with cravat OF purple
The sleeves were quite modern, with the
low shoulder line and peculiar shaped
triangular piece at the wrist, Stimulating
q cuff.
4 pretty house gown of old rose crepe
meteor showed the long pannier Opening
I'm the front. Provided the lines are kept
long. this style of drapery il very gen
orally becoming. The waist lacked fall
Il opened in the front IN
a most practical manner. There were the
rounded yoke and high collar of net.
The front edges were finished inside with
folds of white satin. The left side car
ried the buttons and the right side the
Simple-yes, very-but dainty
and Becoming.
For all Of these gowns Silk-a soft.
supple. cinging fabric-is the most popu-
lar. In addition there are effective soft
woollcn goods, wonderfully good looking
velvets and velveteens, subtiy colored
hentiettas and challis and many pretty