New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-05-05
1t Is the Woman of Forty
Who Buys the Expen-
sive Toilet.

new fashions? DresSmakers and milllners
know that no matter how attractive are
the mode innovations. they are not going to
be adopted unless they suit the woman NJ
forty, for II is the woman Of that age who
buy the expensive toilets. For some sea-
sons fashions have been kind to middle age.
although no one and quite rightly. con-
siders forty as middle age, but there is
severity about certain items Of the present
wardrobe, hats In particular. that bear
hard on the woman whose face needs the
softening Of a shadow. Most Of the new
hat brtms are hard in outline and lift from
the face In such strange. unusual lines that
the softening shadow Is lacking. These are
the most conspicuous features Of the new
modes in millinery. but. fortunately. they
are not the only new models that con-
front US.
But let US give place first to the radical
ideas. In straw are lot Of English walk
ing shapes with straight or slightly rolling
| brims. Often there Is no trimming save a
band holding an oddly shaped bow which
may take on the outlines Of two stiff feath-
ers. On another hat Of much the same
shape the black brim Is faced with satin
dHu AiBH SiO"H udo lOlu VI Sud"
about It In the manner OF a ribbon or silk
| trimming. and from this. stiff yet with
curling end. stands out a long, white os-
trlch feather The spring hats are show
ing many stiff bows and a use OF wings
| that has been out Of date for several sea-
sons, except for young girls Many OF the
! toques. charming In their variegated colors.
are perched so high on the head that they
provide no sheltering protection And one
might finish the list OF the new creations
with much the same comment.
Fortunately, the picturesque curving
brlm is never out Of date. and. loaded with
| Some Of these drop very low on one side
and the uplifting edge is trimmed with a
fringe OF dropping feathers. certainly a
most becoming mode. Some Of the turban
shapes, although they do not hug the face
as did the shapes OF last autumn and show
considerable OF tho couture have nice.
sheltering brims which are really more be-
coming TO the average face than the close
brim showing no hair at al.
| In regard to toilet accessories there
must he two that match; the hat and para
sol are alike, or the hat and big handbag
are made OF the same material and trim
| ming. Really. the same stuffs do we'll for
| handbag and turban. for the latter is Of
| ten composed OF materials strange 10 mill
linery. A chic ornamcntation for a hat 10
! In the form OF a wide band OF cross work
done on rough canvas mounted on blue
| foundation. and the same material may
make the bag 4 coarse twine lace that in
America two decades ago ornamented man.
tel draperies is a fashionable trimming for
| hats. TO be repeated in huge handbags
Much hat decoration looks Ike the trim
ming for lamp shades or dressing table ac-
c"ssories, and this naturally makes up into
tho most attractive Ions, loose bags.
Representations for tho spring modes
| have been so varied and conflicting that Il
is rather relief now that tho openings
have occurred 10 be able 10 write, backed by
the authority Of the grands coutur.ers
There is really nothing alarming about
tailored suits. The threatened domain Of
tho pannler skirt does not seem to innu-
cnce the coat and skirt costume. A good
number ~ these are shown in taffeta silks
which demand considerabl bio trimming. but
the cloth suits are much on the same lines
as those worn for the last six months The
coats are from 81 to 26 inches long and
fall straight over n straight. narrow but
not pulled-in skirt The skirts are often
broken by some form of fat trimming
which does not increase their bulk II may
be high band, with n bit OF fiat trimming
at top and bottom. or tho band may appear
only In the front and back leaving plain
sides. There are lot Of new woollen
stuffs a little difficult to describe Some
arc mixed. some are plain. with an under
thread Of different tone and there is a
good deal of woollen rep used. These mod
els, Of course represent plain morning suits
or simple costumes for afternoon wear
The one-pleCe gown holds It's own, and
: even for the street will be more worn than
skirt and Jacket suits. But there are lot
Of new small ideas 10 make the gown diff
ferent from those worn last season The
cord girdle IS done away with and replaced
J by a narrow belt or a high grde sash. II
viii he surprising II the latter are not con-
sderably worn. The cola rless top will not
appear on the street. although II will not
be entirely replaced by high close chokers.
The Pierrot ruche, which consists OF a
short ruche OF lace or tulle. outstanding,
and deeper. but equally full one, falling
|
pretty fancy in neck gear Then there are
10 BE- strings TO hats-soft, fuffy tulle ones
and others made OF wide ribbon that will
cover the throat In case the gown leaves It
/ bare. Women were several seasons getting
accustomed 10 the collarloss bodice: the
idea seemed lacking In dignity. and. in
truth an era OF high collars had left the
average woman with throat that could
ILL.,, A. ~
skill OF the beauty doctor has overcome this
difficulty and most well groomed women
can show a hice throat to-day, a step In
good grooming To be applauded The collar
less frock has now many advocates among
conservative women, and certainly for the
summer II Is a welcome Item in the ward
robe At the same time. we see some ex-
tremely high lace chokers, almost as high
as the famous model that made a cap for
the chin, a model widely discussed a few
seasons ago, but very little worn.
one house shows an extreme poonaise
model I'm a high necked gown made OF a
roft embroidered material over a silk skirt
OF deeper shade This top makes a polo
| naise held by girdle belt and is slightly
draped over the skirt. The sleeves are
especially old timey, even at this epoch Of
old fashioned modes They are set from
| long. dropping shoulder, and are slightly
full over the elbow. gathering into a wrist
band made OF a double ruche OF lace. There
is tendency to increase the size Of
sleeves, especially toward the wrists Many
% the tailored suits show a cuff split TO
admit OF an outstanding ruffie. and an
other falls over the hands. giving quite
| heavy effect.
We are going to see pretty use Of
white materials. A typical model Is Of