davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11

what did you bring home. Madge"
, asked Ruth. as she looked around her
friends pretty boudoir. 81 mean. OF
course, besides clothes"
This for one thing" Ruth answered
holding UP 10 view a tiny ball which was
dangling from the chain around her neck.
"Ail the girls in Paris are wearing them.
Some are worn on the bracelet but Ike
TO smell the perfume, so hang IT under
my nose"
isn't It a dear" the girls exclaimed In
chorus What do you call IT."
"I believe they call It a pomander. You
see you unscrew the top Of the ball and
drop a little perfume on this tiny little
sponge. 1t is Just enough perfume for
the scent TO come 10 you in faint odor
from the little holes pierced in the sides.
In this way you always have your per-
fume with you"
"Are they expensve'" inquired Helen.
"As I have one for you, Helen. that rs
very embarrassing question" retorted
Aadge. but I might as well be frank
about II, especially as l saw one yestef-
day I'm 34th street. They cost just y "
i'm good American money They are
enamelled. you know, OH sterling silver
have a green one, because 1t blends best
with my frocks, but bought Helen pele
blue one and there are lovely ones IN
lavender, and-well all the other colors'
You can match M any frock.'
~ wish YOU would tell me what 10 buy
for Mrs. Lansing" complained Ruth.
"She has everything you can possibly
think of. but she has been so very nice TO
mo asking me TO all sorts OF Jolly parties
that want 10 show my appreciation on
her birthday. It would be foolish to send
her flowers. because her gardens fairly
riot with blossoms Of every scent and
hue. hooks she has by the boxful every
week from BIS, and what can | give her
I'm silver or glass TO compare with tle
beautiful pieces she has
"Oh. know, Ruth" broke IN Helen !
saw lust the thing at Blanks. It's pretty
extensive. but suppose you want some
thing really nice. It has just been I'M
norted so am sure 1t Is new"
save my life and tell me-" begged
Ruth "My blessing Will always be on
you, my child"
ms a new perfume-a delicious, allur-
ing fra yrance which makes you think that
YOU are burying your head into the most
beautiful bouquet of flowers you could
ever imagine. You think you catch Il
vhifr OF rose; then it's more piquant, like
,be carnation, or spicy, like the old-fash-
,orea yerbena There is something de-
uehtfully subtle and mysterious about II.
Really. 1t reminds me OF Mrs. Lansing.
The scent is fascinating enough in itself,
hut the bottle is n little beauty. 1t is
bexaeonai in shape-I think that is the
correct expression-and the corners are
outlined with gold stripe. There ere
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11

wonder IL IL hypnoized you into buying
toilet articles" Madge good naturedly
responded. What else did you squander
your hard earned allowance on2'
Haven't you noticed my eyebrows"
proudly announced Helen. Il didn't mean
to tell you until they were thicker, be-
cause you can't expect any lotion TO work
in a night"
Listen 10 Helen" chimed in Ruth.
"She knows ell the jargon. You must
haunt these places. But, seriously. your
eyebrows do look hundred per cent bet
ter. What are you doing for them?'
Just using this lotion. rub IL into my
eyebrows every night before / 80 TO bed.
once a week treat my eyelids with II.
It Is a very simple matter. 1 close my
eyes and rub the lids with the tip of my
finger. moistened with the lotion; or, II
want to very scientific. with an orange
stick wound with absorbent cotton and
wet with the lotion. am delighted with
the way my eyebrows and eyelids are
beginning TO grow thick. l shall have the
long curling lashes the heroes of fiction
rave about yet. Just walt and see, and
all for 81 so"
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
Feather Boas
for Midsummer

Hats have risen, not necessarily IN
nrice. but on the head. The hats, which
formerly sought the back of the head
as their resting place, have now returned
20 a more normal position. The head
size is smaller and the hat. therefore,
sets higher on the head, at right angles
The vogue Of wearing the hair parted,
with a loose soft knot at the back OF
the head has brought about this change
I'm the position of the hats, which is
sure to be welcomed.
The new position OF the hat leaves
gan at the back Of the neck which
fashion has not been slow TO provide
for In the ostrich feather boas. These
boas and collarettes of ostrich feathers
come in various hues, but the black ana
white are the most popular. For the
woman who is enjoying the youth OF
old age they are very becoming, lending
a softness TO the face and blurring the
outlines carved by the hand of time.
In Paris the women are wearing coll
larettes of fur combined with frills or
maline and lace, but In this country we
balk al wearing fur next to the throat
so early in the season. Here again the
magpie combination is the most popular.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
THE FINISHING AT THE NECK.

The high collars are usurping TO Ger
tain extent the popularity Of the low col
harness neck which has reigned supreme
for so long 1t is very simple matter,
however to add a shallow yoke and col
lar of Malines or net 10 the gown with
the Dutch neck. The various new neck
fXings will add a decorative touch 10 any
serge costume. One Of the new ideas.
which has been adopted with great sue
cess in the serge costume. is the vest.
The charm Of this vest is shown in one
of the Illustrations. In this case, the vsst
is Of Powered silk, but there are stunning
vests of toile de Jouy, brocades. plain
linens in odd artistic colortngs, plaid tai
fetas and even the striped awning ms
terials which have been so chic this sea
son. Chemisettes OF one Of the lingerie
stuffs vie with the vests for popular
fancy.
Many of the newest serge costumes are
literally adorned with braid, and the very
latest fancy is the braid showing Zigzag
design. a very good looking Russian
blouse costume poasted a blouse decor
ated with braid In zgzag design, with
the skirt yoke carrying out the sans de-
sign
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
THE NEW SLEEVES.

Next TO the skirts, the sleeves show the
most important Of the new ideas. The
long sleeve has been very generally
adopted across the seas. 1t is set either
into an enlarged armhole. or Joined TO
the shoulder cap of the long kimono
shoulder. This Joining is concealed In
many ways, but generally by cording or
braiding. III escaping from this low
shoulder line they may show certain
amount OF fulness, but this fulness Is
rigidly restrained below the elbow, and
herein lies the secret Of the new sleeve.
Often the deep cuff is open and fastened
with buttons so that a giovelike closencss
below the elbow may be possible. a
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11

tending from the back panel at knee
depth. These fans Of pleating are the
Simplest of all devices for introducing
lulness at the bottom of the skirt They
may be of the material of the skirt or of
a contrasting material, such as satin. or
of both another color and a different ma
terial This idea was skilfully exploited
on skirt of blue serge into which fans
of white satin ION either side of the 'front.'
were inset. To he sure. the effect was
striking, but 1t had the approval of Paris.
TUNIcS SIMULATED AND REAL.
When peats are not used 10 lend the
new touch TO the skirt, TUNES are seen.
Many times these tunics are merely sim
ulated with stitching or with a wide lap
over, giving the appearance of a broad
tuck. The lap-Ovcr may extend from the
waist TO the hem directly in the front OF
the back, or it may form a diagonal line
across the skirt, perhaps at knee depth
skirt Will be attached to "a foundation
skirt with the tunic as an ovCrskirt.
The Norfolk and the Russian blouse
lines are both in demand for the popular
serge frOck. y Russian blouse effect
which Is practical as well as pretty is
illustrated. The well-markcd side pieces
are a feature of this blouse. Some of
these blouses open in the front, others on
the side. Fancy buttons and large box
belt, too. may be utilized TO bring out
clever color scheme
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
BEAD EMBROIDERY ON BAGS.

The bead embroidery has been ceyerly
adapted TO the theatre bag shown in the
illustration The original was dream OF
a bag in old rose taffeta, that fascinat-
ing shade of rose which seems to blend
with every color IN good natured har-
mony. The embroidery was outlined in
pearls. with the inevitable touch Of gold
In the thread Although a conventional
design was selected. a good effect could
be produced with the monogram Of the
owner. Gold cord was used 10 draw up
the bag, with the tassels adding a deco
rative finish.
Another attractive bag is pictured in
the bag Of black taffeta, showing a Louis
XIV design of bouquets OF pink and blue
flowers. The rounded shape Of this bag
is good, outlined as II is with fringe. II
would be a very simple matter TO draw up
this bag with a silver cord, although
silver mounting can be adjusted in any
bag shop for very reasonable sum. \
similar bag is shown with mounting OF
somewhat unusual shape. The original
bag was made from gray antelope
mounted on a frame of the antelope, but
there Is no reason why the idea should
not be carried out in striped taffeta or
black MORE. or even in one OF the effec-
tive new brocades. Velvet too, will be
used extensively for bags this winter, and
no foundation shows off TO better adven-
tage the steel bead embroidery. a bag
of the shape under consideration, fasn-
ioned from velvet, with the monogram
outlined In steel bead embroidery and the,
mounting either of the steel beads or OF
velvet, would be very handsome.
ENVELOPE BAG STILL POPULAR.
The envelope shaped bags are still pop
ular. The one OF black ottoman silk with
satin stripes is very trig looking and not
hard to make at home, because one can
have them pressed into shape II one de-
slres at the bag stores. In leather the
square and envelope shapes are IN the
lead, probably because they are so con-
yenient to carry, and. although well sup
piled with all tile little toilet necessities
still have room left for a few rin1ets.
Pressed designs are often seen on leather.
One good looking bag made from brown,
leather is given a decorative touch by a
conventionalized pressed design.
Morocco leather is the first choice OF
the fastidious woman for the leather bag
10 carry IN the morning with ..er walking,
suit. It IS preferably in black morocco.
but the navy blue. dark red, gray ana
new shade. known as suede. which looks
much like tan, are also favorites. Next
10 morocco are the bags Of antelope, ana
the novelty is the bag Of snakeskin,
which promises to invade our wnose
wardrobe.
The long silk handle continues 70 be,
seen. usually knotted in the middle. TO he
carried on the wrist. A whim OF fashion
has brought forth the monogram, either
IN real or imitation diamonds.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
& A RECORD OF FASHIONS LATEST Wt1lNS Il Il
The New Bags
Smart Partisan Designs
Which Can Easily Be
Copied at Home.

The bag has become an integral part
of the costume Of the we'll gowned wom-
an that deserves the importance at
tached TO IL. There was time when
one bag sufficed as long as 1t could
contain the hundred and one odds ana
ends which women were in the habit OF
thrusting into e. To-day many women
have bags to match each walking cos
tune, the luncheon frock and the the
atre gowns or wraps. The number OF
bags one may possess is only limited by
the pocketbook, and the clever woman
circumvents this limitation by making
certain ones at home.
The bags illustrated are all new so
new that they have Just made their ap-
pearance in Paris. Although some OF the
originals were developed in leather there
is no reason why they should not be
copied in other materials-say one or
the stunning new brocades or the FASH
ionable Jouy taffeta, or even the ma
terial of the costume.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
NEW SHAPES IN BAGS.

Perhaps the most unusual shape is
that of the long oblong bag. Although
the original was fashioned from patent,
leather it would be quite as good-look-'
ing n made from black moire, either
plain or striped with white. The clasp is
made by brass buckle which can be
purchased anywhere. the tongue ot the
moire beng drawn through the rrongs.i
Black silk cord is used as the handle
and in this case a short cord, rather
than a long one is preferable.
Another new shape is the pouch bag.
new twist is given TO this bag, as
shown in the illustration, by making onet
end pointed and the other square. These
bags may be IN two or three sections.
When the latter idea is adopted two,
rings, instead of one, are necessary.
Some very effective color combinations
have been evolved in these bags. The
one I'm the drawing is OF gray green
faille embroidered IN steel beads, with
large Jade ring. Bead embroidery has
never been more popular, and shows 10
excellent advantage on bags OF all shapes
and hue Not only are these pouch bags
new, but they are very practical, forI
they hold almost as much as a small
sized suit case.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
NOTICE..

All inquiries. II accompanied with
stamped and addressed envelope for re-
turn mailing, will be promptly answered.
Address. Editor OF Woman's Department
New-York Tribune. lH Nassau street,
New York City.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11

that IT Is the fashionable shade. and you
follow the herd and ask at the shop for
that shade-that IL, you do this II you
are one Of the big majority. There are
women--and fortunately the number ~
choose their clothes Tor
but by far the greater num-
ber allow their judgment 10 be guided
nv the makers OF fashion.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11

Eyebrows which are too thin should he
smeared with a little sweet almond oil.
and they can be darkened and >shickened
by smoothing them with yellow vaseline
in the direction in which the hairs grow.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
THE VOGUE OF PLEATs.

The simplest Of these skirts retains the
narrow silhouette the newest boasts a
suggestion either of pleats or the tunic.
Pleats are forcing themselves into formal
recognition Some are very frank in their
demand for favor. These are the machine
pleats. which start from the waist and ex-
tend to the hem. BY some they are called
accordion pleats, and by others sun ray
pleats. All Of them are narrow, and the
,lose effect Of the tight skirt is produced
by pressing the pleats and by taping
them on the inside. Sometimes one tape
is sufficient: sometimes two and even
three are used. A clever idea for re-
straining any fulness at the feet is the
use of an inside band OF felt to which
the pleats are attached.
Some very good looking costumes are
evolved by making the accordion pleated
skirt in one color and the jacket IN
contrasting shade. There are good looK-
ing skirts Of the dark navy blue serge
to be worn with white serge jackets.
which. by the way. are q bit newer than
the white serge skirts topped with the
dark blue coats. The very latest idea
calls for an accordion pleated skirt OF
plaid serge or flannel. complemented with
a severely cut blue serge coat.
When this wholesale adoption OF pleats
is not desired, there are the side pleats,
extending from the waist 10 the hem on
either side Of the front and back panel.
BY this method ii is very simple matter
10 remodel the skirt Of yesterday. Again,
the pleats may be Of the kick variety
and introduced either on the side seams
IN the form Of an inverted fan, or across
the sides or back. One smart English
serge gown boasted an inverted pleat d.
rectlv in the front, and two others ex-
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
One.Piece Serge Costumes
for Early Fall Days
In Spite of Their Appealing Simplicity, These
Little Frocks Embody Many Features
of the Coming Seasons Fashions.

r,h.n the early fall days arrive-and
are with us long before the calen-
announces they are due-the one
10. serge dress is Just about the most
fa.,tv gown imaginable. These dresses
~, made for themselves very secure
'.os IN the wardrobe OF the well dressed
rs,,,an-so secure. i'm fact. that it is diff
.sn 10 oust them by any later love-
ys.v are practical, they are comfortable,
.,a they are good-looking. What more
corlld you ask?
The two most popular colors are the
oovv blue-a blue that is almost black,
,ne shade ones brother or husband would
,s,ect for his serge suit--or white, a
creamy. soft white which is more becom-
ING than the dead. virginia. white. Be
,vseu these two there is long range
~ oolors, in which are represented many
n the new fancies Of the coming season.
mt these two are the good old stand
bvs. and one is always safe ip selecting
.thsr. For general utility wear the navy
b,rs IS the wiser choice. however as II
mas be worn in town all winter under
the top or fur coat.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-11
FEATURES OF THE NEW STYLES.

There are innumerable ways of fash
bning these little frocks. a. they are
often affectIonately called. Their very
simplicity is appealing, and yet they
form an ideal foundation for the intro
duction OF many of the new features OF
the coming season. Take, for instance,
-he skirts. Skirts this season will be
longer than last year. While there is
decided movement ahead 20 force long.
trailing skirts, even for street wear. on
the fashionably dressed woman, frocks of
the trotteur variety will be worn only TO
ankle depth-about two inches from the
ground. The length, however, is largely
matter of individual preference, the
most becoming length being the one
chosen, and it is really remarkable TO
find how much difference in the appear
snce of figure even a fraction of an
inch IN length, will give.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-03-27
PREPARE FOR YACHTING SEASON

New York, March 27.-The annual
meeting of the Yacht Racing Associa-
ton of Long Island Sound was held
here today at the Hotel Aston, with
delegates present from all the states
along the Sound. Officers and execu-
tive committees were elected and the
racing schedule for the season ar
raigned. This year the managers of
regattas and members of the associa'
ton are working with the idea of
having the big races so arranged that
those yachtmen who like to race will
have opportunities to enter all the
races they wish to and not to have to
arrange their programs so that they
can only take part in few.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-03-27
MORSE REPORTED
DYING IN ITALY

London, March ga dispatch from
Florence states that Charles W..
Morse is at the point of death in a
hospital there.
The former American financier, re-
leased from prison by order Of Presi-
dent Taft because of grave illness,
was being rushed from Rome to Paris
for special treatment when his condi-
ton became so grave that he was
taken off the train at Florence.
In Rome Morse consulted Professor
Marchiafava, physician to the Pope,
who told him that his condition was
dangerous and that he had not long to
live. Immediately thereafter it was
decided to hasten to Paris to consult
specialists.
When he was released from the fed
eral prison at Atlanta, Surgeon Gen
eral Torney had reported to President
Taft that the financier was suffering
from cardiac dispnoea, or "heart
block" complicated with kidney trou
BILE. The government surgeon predict
ed that he would not live more thar
one month, if kept in prison, and no
more than six months if set free.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-03-27

number by the conscript laws and by
boys coming of age and by men from
the border states would have in
creased the arms-bearing population
to about 1,45O,0O0. Accordingly, the
estimate usually made by Confederate
writer's that the South had in its arm
les only about 100000 men is rejected
IS having no solid basis, as opposed
to all reasonable assumption and I'M
supported by documentary evidence
The estimate of 100000 is supported
by the statement of the Adjutant Gen.
eral of the Confederate army, Gen.
Cooper; by A. T. Bledsoe, Assistant
Secretary of War; by Gen. John John
Preston, Chief of the Bureau OF Con-
scription, and by vice-President Alex
ander H. Stevens. 1t is credible that
the Adjutant General Of the Confed-
crate army should have given his opin-
ion that this number of 100000 men
was nearly critically correct If, In
fact there had been upon the rolls OF
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-03-27
suMRALL DEFEATED PUR-
Wis AT BASKET BALL

Sumrall, Miss, March 26.-The High
School girls of Sumrall defeated the
High School girls of Purvis in pref
ty played game Friday afternoon. The
score being "a to in favor of Sum-
rail-
The Sumrall girls have never lost a
game since they organized. They
won the championship Of South Mis-
sissippi for 1910 and 1911. And from
all prospects will take it this year.
The features of the game was the goal
pitching of Parker and Chance, OF
Sumrall.
The lineup was as follows:
Sumrall-A. Rawls, center; d. Park
err and A. Chance, home field; NJ. tbs
dale and M. Watts, guards.
Purvis-McLeod, center; Avery ant
Reese, home field; Treen and MCGEE
guards. -
Captains, Rawls ami Mcleod.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-03-27
Van Vleet-Mansfield Drug Co.
Memphis, Tenn.

statistics, but we have a report of |
state officers exempted on certificates |
of the Governors in nine states, to the
number of 1888. The civil officers |
exempted in Georgia alone We're s.
47S; in the same state there were
exempted for agricultural and neces-
sary purposes G,553. These are only
examples of facts which we meet with
IN the official reports in the war rec
ords. A conservative estimate of the
numbers thus exempted for these vari-
Gus causes in the eleven states would
be $4,000.
We must next deduct from the ag-
grcgate number of men Of military age
! 1927, 200) 20 per cent for those exempt
ed on account of physical or mental
disability; that is, 1885, 400. These de
auctions make 3S5 400. Deducting this
number from the grand total men
toned above 1921, 2O0) we have remain
ing available for military duty 541,S00.
To this we must add possibly 10000
for men who came to the Confederate
colors the first year of the war from
that part of the territory which by
: May, 1862, was completely controlled
= by the Federal armies. This will give
an aggregate of 621,SOO men actually
5 enrolled for war purposes by the
t South.
! 1t seems to be overlooked by Col
e Livermore and others in their esti
J. mates of the available population TO
+ military purposes that the Confederate
v States Government had not only to or
e game an army, but also to establish
l. manufacturing plants for the equip
e ment of the army and to maintain tn
e complicated machinery of civilized
o government in eleven states. W.
s know approximately the RESPECTIVE
v numbers in the great battles of tn
If war, and | submit that these number
If are more consistent with the maximum
n of 100000 to 100000 men serving wit
a the colors than with 100000. If, II
If deed, the Confederacy had been abb
e to muster in arms 100000 men,
k would have been greatly to the di'
a credit of it's able Generals that neve
1t were they able to confront the enem
with more than 10000 men.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-03-27
THE CONFEDERATE ARMY.
At The outside Not More Than 100000
Men Served With The Colors.

Randolph II. McKim in the n Y SUM-
IN a letter to Gen, Early shortly af-
fer the war, Gen. Robert E. Lee wrote:
at will be difficult to get the world TO
understand the odds against wnlch we
fought" One is reminded OF this from
time to time by articles and state
ments which seek to show that the
South had enlisted in its service TOT
the conduct of the war from 1861 10
,ss5 not less than 100000 men.
These estimates are largely based
upon the hypothesis that in a po'ula-
tion of 100000 of white people IN
1861 there should have been an arms
hearing population of about l'oOV'Voo
mon and that the additions TO tnls
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-03-27
FAIR NOW MEMBER
TROTTING ASSOCIATION

Jackson, Miss, March 27.-The Mis-
sissippi State Fair has now become a
member of the National Trotting AS
sociation. 1t has heretofore had its
membership in the American, but it
has been found that most of the fairs
on the Southern circuit are in the Ma
tional, and in order to tend toward
uniformity the change has been made
There is no difference as to the asso-
Citations, both being standard.