New-York tribune., 1912-02-25
More Greeklike than Ever
The Lines of Hellenic Goddesses Will Be De-
manded by the Spring Modes.

change, not TO make new fashions in their
selfish interests, they affirm. but for the
sake of the woman's figure. The stiu
front corset had nearly ruined II when they
interposed. apd raised the waist line. The
close skirt was responsible for bad habits
Of walking. or OF not walking. when they
made It easy with cleverly inserted panels;
now tho change is to be more drastic, and
the customer is to walk forth a queen.
Take what view of the matter We like,
tho new modes promise to be very beauti-
full We shall probably not see Greek gowns
commonly worn on the street, but we are
going to see fuller skirts to match the soft
waist lines that have been IN vogue all
winter.
The fichu idea continues. and in It's new
forms is very pretty. In the spring models
lit promises to be as universal as was the
bolero idea years ago. And 1t is realy
more generally becoming, for we have bsea
educated aow to like falling folds on the
we'll defined shoulders Of the modern %om-
an. II is not Of first Importance what
becomes Of the fichu in front: 1t may end
under the bust, II may fall in long points
tuck into the waist line, or become part
Of the trimming, but the back view IS apt
to make the gown.
There are many ways Of arranging II
behind When 1t is built Of q soft ma
terial like lace or Jour null a line or 5nlr-
rings often attaches II to the waist line and
II falls in a point, curve or square
IL the heavy trimming Of the gown forms
the fchu It may pass under the belt behind
and in long panels on the skirt. Some OF
% D
heavy lace edged with silk, velvet or cloth,
smoothly fitted over the shoulders passing
under the belt and ending in coatlike taos
behind. In such a case the soft trimming
OF the bodice falls over the fchu fron',
whether II finishes a decOlletage or the
ordinary guimpe OF high-necked frock
In mind is a most amusing model OF
almond green serge trimmed with heavy
guipure dyed the same shade and hau1s
OF emerald green velvet. The gown Is on
the lines OF soft princess belted at the
waist the usual form now, Tor almost
everything is one piece, no matter now
many times II Is cut across by belt or
trimming The front OF the skirt Is Dlalh'
and the whole top above the belt Is COW
cred with the guipure, although the menu
Idea Is only shown by the pointed line cut
over the delicate guimpe OF fine cream iace.
| The fichu, which is edged with tWo-inch
line Of velvet top and bottom, crosses be-
| hind the shoulders, passes under velvet
belt and forms two little crossed coattails.
each ending In point. The velvet edge
| grows heavier here, so that the coattails, II
we can really call them such are empha-
| sized. On the back panel Of the skirt Is a
wide sash Of the guipure, edged narrowly
! with the velvet which broadens into wide
| band at the end.
| The hat that accompanies this creation is
q mass OF. emerald green aigrettes, which
seem TO spring, from every part OF II, max
ing a high bush. Not very artistic fash
| ION. but a good example Of the modish
! idea set by Paris to-day.
There is naturally a dead Of interest,"
concerning sleeves-whether they are to
be kimono or set into an armhole. TheS
are evidently going to be botn' but as tsi
az appearances are concerned there Is mol
much difference. The sleeve In one piece
with the bodice is now so well cut that u
Ats up 10 almost the armpit, and the set
in sleeves follow much the same lines
The dressmaker who has not solved th'
probIem of cutting the sleeve with bodic'
I'm one piece and making the former al
long and close as her customer desires
had better make a seam at the shoulder
low enough TO cover it with falling trim
ming. Sleeves are made in this way al
though We are not aware OF the extra seam
The long. close sleeve is chic. but rathe
uncommon. Most sleeves cover the eloo"
and they may have little extension o
trimming. In truth, sleeves are not 81
yer,, ,mportant. FOR the reason that shoul
do,. trimming is so very conspicuous. TIL
90. r.sts on the shoulders rather than OF
the sleeves.
mis- a relief to see few examples o
untrlmmed suits after the wealth OF ueco
rs,ion that has adorned everything fo