Evening journal., 1912-07-06
Materials and TintS Should be
Selected With Reference
to Final Effect
LINGERIE AND SILK BLOUSES

NEW YORK, July 6.--Never before
in the history OF fashion have combi-
nations been 80 carefully studied rs
now ! used 20 answer ell our re-
ouirements 70 select the material we
liked choose some pretty trimming 70
60 with H. and instruct the seam
stress 70 make It up IN becoming
style All that Is changed now. The
study Of clothes has been raised 70
the dignity OF q science Our gowns
are made OF two or three or four ma
terials. all Of which must be chosen
with reference 70 each other Colors
must be harmoniz~d If not in true
musical sequence. ar least in Wagner
ian accord and fabrics must be view
ed with reference 70 the fitness with
which they will build upon each
other II is easily understood that
a gown made with a satin skirt
brocaded overskirt yelled with chif-
fon. a gold embroidered court train.
and a satin, brocade and chiffon
blouse touched up with solitary
strip Of vivid embroidery can be
nothing else than garish absurdity
unless II is chosen with perfect taste
and built with consummate skill But
given the artist and the architect.
would not such 2 gown be a triumph
OF modern art7 Even in our simpler
frocks We realize that we DO not fully
satisfy our beauty loving instincts il
We select them haphazard Trim
mings must be essential features OF
the dress harmony-must mean some
thing in the scheme Of things.
In this simple dress. for instance.
plan has been developed which
makes it an artistic achievement.
quiet as II looks Blouse and skirt
are Of chiffon taffeta in Meissen blue.
that soft shade seen in the real Meis-
sen china. which seems painted with
brush dipped in the blue Of the sky
on a graying day. No other blue
would make the necessary contrast.
and obviously black would be too
startling. So a quiet green leaf
Just the color Of the foliage. would
show against the sky on the craving
day, was chosen FOR the narrow vel
vet border on dress, and sleeves. for
the buttons and loops and for the
soft crush girdle with It's fat bow
and long ends IN the back. The green
velvet appears also in the bag. which
Is mounted with duh silver. The hat.
always n important feature Of the
well dressed womans costume, is q
soft. turhan-like affair Of cream white
tagal twisted about the crown with
folds Of the blue silk and green vel
vet A pretty pierrof collar of white
lace is worn at the neck. and truly
French note of relief from what 9th
erwise might be monotony is struck
by the narrow tie of dull crimson
which encircles II.
These convenient and becoming one
piece frocks have so obesssd the femi-
, nine fancy that one Is almost in dan
. ger Of forgetting the lingerie blouse
/ But all the time designers are fash
ioning the most e-auisite little ere
atoms To wear with the coat suits
which. when all is said and done are
sun the staple for street wear. Fine
" tucked and trimmed with Valenci.
ennes lace they embody the daintiness
which is essentially feminine attri-
bute. Laundered with care, thew will
Withstand a full seasons visits 70 the
tub. reappearinE with that fresh and
perennial crispness impossible Of AZ.
tainment by the more periehahle ohif
fon blouse. Shadow lace is givine
Valenciennes a close race for supre
mafy in decorating this summer.
waists and Irish crochet and Clun,
are also nigh in the tide Of public "a.
vor Some Of the handsomest OF these
separate waists have small round Of
square yokes OF lace with or withou
standing collars Below the yoke
lace insertion 70 correspond is Sc
in various patterns amid groups o
pin tucks and lace. For the wonaa,
10 whom the expense Of laundering il
an item, there are lovely chiffon an
chiffon cloth blouses In colors Il
match any coat suit she NAV desire
and plenty OF dark and medium
shades, which stand lots OF wsa
without showing soil Very stylisl
this summer. too, are the China sill
waists. either all white or IN stripe.
white with green. blue. lavender. gra
or black These are tailored in quit
msnnish fashion and have unstiffene
roll collars which button at the col
ners 20 the neckhand China sil
washes Well. requires no starch.
speedily done M because q Is ircne
while still damn from the washing
aad is therefore boon 20 the woms