davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-11-24
The Broad Panels.

DROAD back panels are extensively
- used on dresses made of heavy
weight materials. The skirt of the dressy
model often shows a drapery suggestion.
These skirts have. crossover drapery
tapering off to the back, where it is
slightly caught up and brought under the
back panel, near the skirt edge.
Other models have a broad panel effect
in the back, the skirts having pleated in
serts at the side or the suggestion of
drapery produced by an arrangement of
pleats in the side front seam and effected
by drawing up the heightened skirt. The
sides of these models are plain and fin
ished off at the back with a panel ar
Some panels are pleated They generally
run all the same way instead of being
reversed toward the center. They appear
In the back or front, and in some cases in
a panel effect on one side of the skirt.
Gathered panels are also used, but in
every case this section is stitched to the
more becoming to the average figure than
the perfectly plain back, and it also
makes a desirable finish when the dra-
perry is of a material contrasting with
the dress fabric, as the panel of Self-ma-
terial makes a good finish for the drapery
at each side.
Evening star., 1912-11-24

if left au naturel: but the border across
the bottom was cut off and then ap-
pliqued higher up to bring the garment
Just the right length. This handsome
neglige closes at the left hip under
gold cord ornament. and is belted loosely
with a gold and black cord with tas-
seled ends falling below the god orna-
ment
The old style corset cover has become
almost unknown in fashionable circles,
for the woman who dresses smartly
realizes the necessity of a firmer figure
support under loose gowns than the cor
set cover of yore. Brassieres of linen
and fine embroidery and perhaps an edge
of irish or cluny lace are worn with the
petticoat, over the corset, separate GU
lotte drawer being worn also over the
corset if desired. Most women, however,
dispense with this pretty culotte drawer
in the interests of slenderness, and wear
the corset over a combination chemiSe-
drawer of batSte, or an ordinary COM
bina ton garment OF glove silk, which
clings closely to the figure. The bras
siere shown in the illustration is a beautl-
fully fitting little garment made of hand
kerchief linen and eyelet embroidery
banding put together with cluny entire
deux The brassiere fastens at the back
and the hanging strap is intended to
hook to the corset though the brasSiere
as pictured is worn over a petticoat OF
Evening star., 1912-11-24

better foundation for the application of
the glued paper rope than would the
smoother cardboard The inside of the
finished article is Shellaced as well as the
outer side and the lining of crepe paper
takes the coating of shellac splendldly.
1t is almost impossible to believe, ham
ding a completed rope work jug or bowl.
that it is made of anything so perishable
as crepe paper. The articles have the
firmness and lustrous, polished surface OF
Indian bowls of wood, and the more deco
rative forms such as lampshades, noWer
baskets and tall chrysanthemum baS-
kets are very handsome indeed.
OF course natural flowers are not kept
in water-in a rope work receptacle-un-
less glass or china vase or bowl is set
the shellaced cardboard surface. The
tall basket pictured is filled with paper
chrysanthsmums in deep orange and
copper tones and the bronze basket with
its richly colored chrysanthemums would
make a very effective touch of color in a
shadowy corner of hall or living room.
The lantern is intended for hallway.
and at the top there is an opening for the
electric light wire. The electrolier has q
base of bronze ropework and a shade of
bronze rope over orange-colored crepe
paper. Another shade, illustrated, shows
how rope work can be used in cOmbina-
tion with printed crepe paper napkins:
for the side panels of this shade have
been made of bits clipped fom golden-rod
printed napkins, rope work covering the
Evening star., 1912-11-24
Ne6li6es Of Fine Embroidery Mounted Over Rich
Silk and Yelled With Chiffon---- Elaborate
PettiCoatS Accompany Little Room
Sacques' CrepeNiShtgoVnS
for Cold Weather.

fineness and fit and not elaboration, and
the character of the new undermuslinS is
a revelation to those who have not OBJ
served what strides the trade has re-
Gently made in this respect.
The modern woman wears but one pet
ticoat, that being the rather short and
very slim affair donned last of all, just
before the donning of the dress skirt and
made of satin mesSaline, crepe de. chine
or tub material with fiounce of en-
broidery at the foot. Lace is not used
on the petticoat now except in the form
of insertions above the flonnce of en-
i1roidery, and in narrow frills under the
edge of the embroidery scallops. The
street petticoat Is of tub material-such
petticoats are much worn just now-and
has a six-inch fiounce, no deeper, set
on under an embroidery beading. Dane
ing petticoats and those intended for
evening wear often have flounces to the
knees, the handsome embroidery founce
not being gathered where it joins the
petticoat top, but having a few groups of
pin tucks to lend fullness without lumpi-
ness. PleatS in street petticoats are
natural sequence of the renewed favor
for pleated effects and many of the new
satin petticoats in fashionable amber,
peacock and shot effects have one or two
accordion pleated frils, the pleating.
however, being very soft and rather
scant and the lower row being put on
Evening star., 1912-11-24
Correctness in Color.

TT Is canny woman who keeps In touch
with the changes in color fashions
No shade Is modish longer than few
months for the. moment strong color is
taken up by the masses the classes Will
have none Of it.. Last summer grass
green was SO fashionable at one time II
was next to impossible to buy yard OF
ribbon in the desired shades In New
York shops; now grass green Is as deau
as last Mays yerylure and the fashionable
shade Is amber One sees amber feathers
on black hats. amber neckties. amber col
lars on tailored coats, amber buttons and
what not. Taupe Is another very fash
ionable shade for gowns, suits and mats
and soft smoky grays are used for in
door frocks of charmeuse and crepe de
chine. Those who can wear bright tlnts
are taking up the brick red shade, called
Besnard which milliners have brought
over from Paris this autumn.
Evening star., 1912-11-24
Beauty Boxes for Christmas

silk or bit of tapestry. The books con-
tain the little leaves of powder paper
incased in pasteboard covers, which mi
lady tucks in her handbag and finds
more convenient to use on her shonping
trip or railroad journey than the powder
puff or rag.
A very convenient powder receptacle
for a handbag is the tiny gun metal case.
which opens with spring and reveals 4
small mirror inside the cover and a
chamois bag or powder tucked snuglv in
a compartment. The case has a small.
artistic design on the outside Thesa
cases may also be bought in sterline,
silver and imitation gun metal Other
popular powder cases are made in tho
shape OF small, round ball. containing
a mirror and d miniature powder puff.
Evening star., 1912-11-24

that the wheel may be turned either way.
One person holds the end of the crepe
paper strip, holding it firm and taut, and
another person runs the treadle Of the
machine. The wheel flies round and
round and the strip of paper Is twisted
in jiffy. This strip is removed and the
ends are pinned around chair rails or
other objects to keep the twisted strip
taut Another strip is wound in the same
way. Now tie the two strips, together.
to the wheel. reverse the wheel SO that
it goes around the other way and start
the treadle. The final twisting of the
strands together will give a firm crepe
paper rope.
Some of the colors in which the crepe
paper for the work may be obtained are
celestial. national and navy blue, violet,
gun metal, coral. moss and leaf green.
amber, gold, Mandarin orange, wood
brown and ruby. The application OF the
shellac gives a metallic, lustrous effect to
all of these shades.
Evening star., 1912-11-24

for wear with diaphanous negliges or
airy little neglige sacques falling to the
hip. The neglige petticoat makes no pre-
tense of being hidden: but because it is
coquettishIy Haunted very apparent
part of the costume it is as coquettlsh as
a petticoat can possibly be. and is be-
frilled, belaced and beribboned to the last
degree of petticoat prettiness. petit
coat of this character is shown on
seated figure and accompanies a charm
ing neglige of embroidery and lace. The
petticoat has very deep f1ounce of eye
let embroidery, deeply scalloped at the
edge, and these scallops fall over an
under-flounce Of lace. The top OF the
Evening star., 1912-11-24

shown in smaller Illustration. but the
picture leaves out two first and most inn
portant essentials-a big giugham apron
and finger bowl of warm water for
rinsing the fingers constantly. For rope
work is messy job: no getting around
that. and unless one is well protected by
the big apron. one is apt TO emerge from
the rope workroom "a sticky object in
deed.
As the picture shows, the crepe paper
rope is pasted over cardboard forms,
which are in turn cut out in sections and
fastened together with tiny strips of ad-
taped together. they are covered inside
and out with crepe paper This offers a
Evening star., 1912-11-24
vv7HY not give your woman friend
W beauty box for Christmas? Sc

not give yum "oA =
M beauty box for Christmas? Sc
w lect a pretty box or basket, ana
in it put box of good cold cream, box
of face powder, cake or two of pure
vegetable soap, good box of nail polish,
a box of perspirine, box of bleach
cream to remove the discolorations from
the neck which has. been too tightly
bound up in snug collars, box of al
mond whitener for the hands, a few small
bath bags filled with almond meal, oat-
meal and powdered orris root.
One woman has prepared a unique gift
for a friend who lives in town where
toilet preparations are not sold by the
stores. In a pretty box she placed
big piece of rice paper and emptied Two
boxes of face powder into it. Then she
folded the rice paper over and tald
little chamois powder rag on the top.
over this she placed hand-painted caro-.
with the picture of a woman dabbing her
nose with powder puff, and underneath
1t was written:
Little dahs Of powder
And u chamois rag
Give you complexion
OF which you can brag.
To make cute little powder bags. cover
a round piece of cardboard with silk,
then sew on this two pieces or SILK Tor
the bags. one about twice as wide as the
other. The inner bag is filled with pow
der and drawn up with RIBBON. The
outer bag is also drawn up with rib
bons and chamois powder rag Is placed
inside 1t is neat and at the same time
one of the handiest powder conveniences
to be made.
The little paper powder books which
are so extensively used by women every
where make pretty and inexpensive
presents for Christmas if covered with
Evening star., 1912-11-24
THE preparation of the thanksgiving /,
feast is usually the first really i'm
portant event in the social festivi-

"HE preparation of the Thanksgiving
feast is usually the first really i'm
portant event in the social festivi-
ties of the winter. This is the day when
the pumpkin pie is recognized most fully
for what it is, as one of the really good
things that came to humanity after the
discovery of America by Columbus.
A pumpkin intended for pies should not
be too large for the fiber is not always
fine in the largest ones First, cut the
pumpkin into pieces with large meat or
carving knife You will find the work
less difficult if you have a board on which
to cut the pumpkin and drive the knife
with the aid of a hatchet. Pare the
pieces and cut into inch squares. If you
have never tried steaming pumpkin for
pies, do so now. 1t quickly cooks the
meat and leaves it perfectly dry, smooth
and easy to mash If boiled. it must be
boiled down. then drained A watery
numpkin or a stringy one will not make
good pie When making pumpkin pies
always use plenty OF eggs, 1resn mix
and Just enough cinnamon or spices 10
| destroy the pumpkin flavor, wnlcn many
do not like. A pie tasting of pumpkin as
, the predominating flavor is anything but
delicious.
To make the real New England pump
| kin pie take one part of stewed pumpkin,
we'll mashed; one cup Of sugar, two eggs,
! two .tablespoonfuls OF corn starch, half
teaspoonful each of cinnamon and all
spice. one-fourth teaspoonful of cloves
and one-fourth of nutmeg. Stir all to-
gether Pick the seed end of the cloves
| off if you do not want your pies dark.
| Let two cups of sweet milk get boiling
| hot. then pour it in the pumpkin. stirring
well. This is enough for four pies. Line
| the pans with a good pie paste, fill with
| the pumpkin and bake with one crust.
| Instead of using an egg In a pumpkin
pie. use a heaping teaspoonful each of
| f1our and cornmeal and it will battle an
| EXPERT to detect the difference in taste or
color.
Another recipe for pumpkin pie without
| eggs is to take one cup of cooked pump
| kin one cup sweet milk, one-half cup ma
pie sirup one tablespoon cornstarch,
| three tablespoons sugar, flavor with nut
meg and bake in crust.
To make a pumpkin pie without crust.
| prepare the pumpkin in the usual way.
Butter the pie tins and sprinkle granu-
lated cornmeal thinly over the tins. but
leave no bare spots. Pour in the pump
| kin mixture and bake Pies made in this
way are delicious and some folks think
| they are more wholesome than when
! made with the usual pie crust.
i 4
A squash pie without eggs is made as
follows: Split a squash and bake H. ana
Evening star., 1912-11-24

which are certainly warmer than dia-
phanous affairs of Eatiste. These crepe
nightgowns are Very simply made ana
some of them are daintiiied with piping
in color-the French models particularly.
\ nightgown of this sort made Of very
sheer cotton crepe, has sleeves 10 the
elbow and turnover Byron collar with
a graceful flare. The collar is piped with
mink lawn and a piping runs down the
front to the bust. pink cord lacinS across
through pink embroidered eyelets The
turned back cuffs are piped and laced up
the outer side.
The charming cap pictured today is
new Marie Antoinette model called the
"Guillotine," since its shape suggests
the cap worn by the Inflated queen TO
the scaffold. 1t Is made Of sheer lawn
and val lace. and the lace fri.l is turned
back from the forehead in graceful ef-
feet.
Evening star., 1912-11-24
@/Ezdz2& R4De W61k
GIIegT T3~ C/2fHe59fz2Aso

VHE something new under the
sun this season is crepe paper
rope work. Womankind is
madly enthusiastic over this
new artcraft and the embroi-
derry boop. paint box and stenciling outfit
have been abandoned in favor of crepe
paper rope work baskets, vases, lamps
lanterns, trays and other household oo-
iects.
The new rope work is not only artistic
and interesting; but it is practical as
well. All sorts of utilitarian objects can
be made in addition to decorative Things
which are-when we'll done-worthy OF
places in the most distinguished rooms.
Illustrations are given of several rope
work articles: and though the photo
graphs have given a good idea or the
;race and solidity of these articles made
OF nothing more substantial than paste
board and crepe paper. the black and
white prints convey no idea of the rich
ness of color and lustrous effect of the
shellaced rope work
In striking contrast to the handsome
character of the completed articles, the
prices for materials are very low-and
The completed articles, themselves. bring
rather high sums. This is because the
value OF the rope work article lies wholly
in the work itself-and quite a lot of la
vase or jug, though after one has ac-
uu!red the knack. the work goes quite
easily.
Tie implements needed To begin are
Evening star., 1912-11-24

gerie" advertised for the great white
sales that occur in every city, and fine
even though simple garments we'll cut
and gracefully trimmed may now be pur-
chased at very moderate price. This is a
development of very recent years, for
the manufacturers of ready-made under
wear We're obstinate folk and in their
opinion quantities of cheap lace and en-
broidery evidently made up for coarse
ness Of material and clumsiness of cut;
but women kept insisting simpler gar
ments, softer and finer in quality, and
when they could not obtain these at any
prices save the exorbitant ones asked for
French handmade lingerie, took to max
ing the garments themselves. Now the
manufacturers have awakened to the fact
that what woman wants in underwear is
Evening star., 1912-11-24

without any dust flounce underneath. The
dust ruffie has been abolished. anyway,
from all petticoats. 1t is a relic of the
days when ones petticoat was worn only
a little shorter than the outer skirt and
kicked against the boots at every step
Now the petticoat falls only to the top
of the buttoned boot and there is really
no need OF protecting dust ruff1e, which
only adds clumsness to the edge.
X
Every properly supplied trousseau this
autumn will number two or three spe-
cial 'neglige petticoats," affairs de luxe
Evening star., 1912-11-24

prune-colored messalire with pleated
hounce at the foot. Some of the pret-
tiest brassieres are OF all-over embroidery.
exquisitely fitted and fastening at either
the back or the front. The garments
fastening at the back give the most
slender effect. The woman who likes to
sleep in a cold bedroom, or, rather, to
have the windows of her bedroom wide
open no matter what the weather.
fancies the nightgowns of cotton crepe,
Evening star., 1912-11-24
Short Cuts for Housekeepers
How to Make the Thanksgiving Pie.

scrape il out of the shell. One pint, which
Will be about two cupfuts of the squash.
Will make two large pies. MIN with it
one tablespoonful of butter. one cupful
OF brown sugar, one Tablespoonful or
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of ginger.
little salt and two tablespoonfuls of -four
or cornstarch. After mixing these and
while the squash is still warm, add one
quart of milk.
Delicious spice pie is made by taking
the yolks of three eggs. one and one-half
cups of sugar, one cup Of good cream.
two tablespoons of -four. two-thirds of a
cup of butter. one teaspoon of spice,
cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Mix the
flour and sugar together, then the cream
with butter: add the yolks Of eggs, beat
ing thoroughly: next add cream and
spices. Use the whites of the eggs for
the froSting on top
Raisin pie is a good substitute for
mince pie. To make, take two cups Of
sugar. two cups of raisins which have
been soaked in water a few minutes, ono
then seeded, one-half cup vinegar. one
and half cups hot water one egg well
beaten. two tablespoons flour and scant
teaspoon butter. Mix the ingredients
and set on the stove in a saucepan and
boil until it thickenS, then put ii between
the cruStS and bake.
A luscious cranberry pie is made from
two cups of cranberries split or chopped.
one cup and half of sugar two table,
spoons cornstarch. three eggs. Line the
chopped cranbeTrias. Stir cornstarch,
sugar and beaten yollls OF eggs together.
and add one cup of sweet milk and
pour over the pies and bake Cover with
| meringue and brown in the oven. This
recipe is enough for two pies.
x j
Mock cherry pie is made from one Gun
cranberries, one-half cup seeded raisins,
one teaspoon butter, melted three
fourths cup sugar. one tablespoon -four
Cut the cranberries in halves and chop
the raisins, but not too fine. Add the
butter, sugar and -four and bake in a
moderate oven between crusts.
Good chocolate pie is made from three
eggs, one cup sugar. two ounces bitter
chocolate, one cup cream which has been
whipped stiff, two tablespoons bread
crumbs which have been toasted brown.
two tablespoons powdered sugar and one
fourth teaspoon vanilla. Melt the choco-
late over hot water and mix with the
eggs, sugar and bread crumbs. Put into
the pie plate with one crust and bake
twenty minutes. Spread the whip ed
cream on ,op.
To make cocoanut pie. take four eggs,
four heaping teaspoons sugar, one table
spoon flour, one teaspoon extract Of
lemon. two cups milk. two cups fresh
grated cocoanut Keep two egg whites
for the frostinS. beat the remaining yolks
and eggs, add the other ingredients mix
well and put into a pie tin which is lined
with a thick crust, and bake. When it
is cool, cover with a meringue made OF
the two whites beaten to a stiff froth.
with three tablespoons powdered sugar
Evening star., 1912-11-24

joining of the panels and the wires Whlcn
form the corners of the frame. In the
same picture are shown graceful mower
basket for the center of the dinner taple.
and also an Oblong fern basket BOth OF
these baskets admit of receptacles for
water or earth inside. The oblong basket
is finished at top and bottom with
thickly braided rope Of the crepe paper
rope which is used to cover the basket
and the graceful handles are of rope
braided over wire. The tall handle OF
the round basket is made of light reed
covered with crepe paper and then tWlst-
ed with crepe paper rope
Scrap baskets with round. hanging nan
dies are very attractive and when made
of brown or dark green shellaced rope
are especially effective in rooms furnished
in mission style Round, oval or oblong
trays. made of rope work have handles at
the sides for carrying, and the inside OF
the tray Is of glass, under which is
charming design that at first glance looks
like embroidery on some fabr1c Dut Wnlcn
proves to be floral pattern cut from
crepe paper napkins and pasted fiat on
dark green or brown crepe paper. Dainty
trays for the invalid's breakfast have
these floral designs against white crepe
paper ground, the edge of the tray being
of rope work In green or golden brown,
with the lustrous shellac finish. Two
coats of shellac are given to each object.
The hanks of rope may be obtained all
ready to work with, along with the other
requisites for the work, from the Den
nison people or at any shop where these
crepe paper goods are sold; but if one de-
sires to make the rope ones self, the
process is simple. The crepe paper roll
is cut into strips, three. four, six inches
understanding to the weight of rope de-
sired. One end of the strip is tied to the
small wheel of a sewing machine, the
machine-needle having been taken out SO
Evening star., 1912-11-24
Milady's Mirror.

Rose water. four ounces, and a third OF
an ounce of tincture of benzoin has the
quality of bringing the blood TO the sur
face of the skin and giving it a delicate
pink color.
To harden the gums try wash made
OF hot water, one pint; borax, one ounce
and teaspoonful each of Spirits of
camphor and myrrh. Dissolve the borax
in the hot water and let cool before add
ing the other ingredients
CASTLE soap and orris root in equal
parts make a cleansing and fragrant
tooth powder
Don't rub the face with too coarse a
towel Treat 1t as you would the finest
porcelain, tenderly and delicately.
A little carbolic acid added to the water
in which burns, bruises and cuts are
washed greatly lessons the soreness.
Evening star., 1912-11-24

fine
and dainty under
linens have be-
come the neceS-
sity rather than
the luxury Of
modern woman
h o o d. co arS e
muslins and heavy
trimmings n a V e
b e G n abolished,
even in the bar
gain sale lin
Evening star., 1912-11-24

Some of the most stunning stoles are
worked in narrow strips of fur laid on
soft velvet or satin foundation. with
an effect like wide-ribbed fur corduroy.