Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-01

incumbent on one to affect the English
styles, it is easily possible for those who
so wish to get them in greatly modified
form. All the better mems Quitting
shops carry a big line of what they call
semi-English garments. With these the
coats, while still more or less form fit
ting. do not cling quite so closely as the
more extreme cuts. The shoulders are
more roomy and there is more looseness
at the waist. The sleeves. too, are more
loose. and the same applies to the trous-
ers which fall to the ankle at slight
and rather graceful angle. instead of In
straight line. as is the case with the
extreme English pantalOOns.
x
But in either the extreme or the semi
English clothes there are a variety of
styles. The semi-military cutaway is
probably the most popular: certainly it is
seen more frequently than any of the
other styles. In this suit the cut, save
for the close fitting English lines. is at
once similar yet dissimilar to the sack
suits that business men of Washington
have been buying for the past decade.
The coat is shorter this year than previ-
ously. however, and the cutaway is small
err and round instead of rather angular
Probably the most notable difference is in
the lapels. short straight lapel shaped
like tiny pointed right angle triangle
used to I've considered the thing.
Fashion demanded that the crease of
that lapel be sharp. and the shops sold
little cOntrivances to fit under the lapels.
devised to hold the crease and also to
hold the ends close together in case the
coat was unouttoned. Usually. however.
the coat was buttOned at the top. In the
present styles exactly the opposite is
fashionable. Fashion now DEGREES that
the lapel be long. large and rollng-the
longer. the larger and the more rolling
1t Is the better. Present coat lapels are
designed with the Iu,a OF displaying as
much as possible of the wearer's chest de-
velopment, a plan still further aided by
the fashion demanded custom of having
the coat buttoned at the bottom, thus
causing the top to flare out. On some of
the more extreme suits displayed in the
fashionable mems Outfitters the lapels
flare back to within a few inches of the
shoulders, givlng view of almost the
entire chest of the wearer. Needless to
say. these suits are only popular with the
man OF athletic physique. The man of
Sight build and narrow or fiat chest will
naturally prefer something less striking.
Next to the semi military cutaway, the
box coat is probably the most popular
Il is "a far different box coat from that
which men wore a few seasons ago. In
the first place, 1t is essentially short.
Built properly. it should terminate about
midshp. and. like the cutaway, 1t is tight
fitting. Although a box cut the coat over
laps but very little in front. 1t a little
more than meets. being not dissimilar in
this regard to the square-cut coat worn
by a clergyman. Indeed, this same cut
-clergyman's cut-without the high col
lar, or course. has recently been intro
duced in the shops 1t is one of the new
est things out, and the shopkeepers say
they expect it to make a ten strike
The lapels OF the box coat. like those of
the cutaway, are wide and rolling, but
instead of being lcag. they are short.
When the coat . buttoned at the bottom,
or even when 1t is buttoned all the way
up, they protrude to a remarkable ex-
tent. And whereas the f1aring lapel of
the cutaway Is Stunned by all save the
man of athletic build, the putting lapels
Of the box coat are eagerly sought by the
others. The box coat 10 so constructed