Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

ment concerning the affairs of other peo-
pie. All during the morning the pave
ments around hotels and restaurants are
filled with chairs and tables for the man
of Amsterdam enjoys his cup of coffee
and roll and his quiet glass out of doors.
Even this appears a serious part of life:
the diners are usually silent and absorbed
In their own thoughts, except when they
stare at tourists. This is one of the fail
ings of the citizen of Amsterdam, and he
does not conceal it, even at the risk OF
being called i'll hammered. If the water of
Holland is bad there is one recompense
to the traveller. for the coffee is good,
and, as that is considerable part
of the European breakfast, it's ex-
cellence is of no mean Importance.
The large hotel rooms. with their rich
carpets and clocks, give an air of lux
ury, but the beds always call forth a
comment from those not acquainted with
such queerly made structures. When the
American retires in a large city Of Hol-
land he proceeds to pile more than half
of his bed on the floor. First the red
covered, down feather bed, intended as a
cover, Is put on the floor. Then comfort
or blanket or two Is taken OFF, and finally
one or more of the pillows, the bolster
or the heavy wooden-framed head rest
under the mattress is taken from Its posi-
ton.
Everythi about the hotel is spotless.
The servants do their cleaning with
seeming enjoyment. Visitors are at loss
to know why it is that the hall carpets
appear so fresh, as Americans never
surmise that the carpets are taken up
every night and fresh ones put down,
while the soiled coverings are being
secured for use the next day. That is
what is really done.
Travellers who go to the city see many
canals and bridges, but they can hardly
realize that the great shipping station
is built on ninety islands, because most
of the sightseeing is done from carriages
or street cars from terra firma. The
streets are lined with great substantial
buildings six or seven stories high. With
that he is walking on the tree tops, and
yet every one in Amsterdam is doing
exactly that, for the whole city is built
on piles driven into the once marshy
ground. The buildings lean forward or
backward from the line of perpendicular
to remind the Hollanders of this founda-
ton of the metropolis. for the piles set
Ting unevenly have caused this irregular
and insecure look among the buildings in
many localities of the city. Probably no
one ever left Amsterdam without noticing
the mirrors placed by the sides of the
windows at right angles to the houses, as
these seem to belong to every fine resi-
dence. BY looking into the glasses the
Informed of what is taking place on the
street. They see who Is approaching
their front doors, or they may watch
their children at play.
Il y
Tourists in Amsterdam usually visit the
kings palace, as 1t is one of the show
places The royal parsonage occupies it
about one month each year, and so the
rest of the time it is open to the public.
The elegance of the mansion Is interest
ing. but the ballroom, the largest In
Europe causes special enthusiasm among
those who see in fancy the elegantly
gowned ladies and good looking Holland
ers in court uniforms enjoying the gayety
Of the dance. The architect of the palace
must have been entranced III his atten-
lions to the interior of the building, for
the insignificant entrance was sighted to
such degree that the royal residence is
called the building without front
door,"
This Is Offset the exchange oppo-
site, which is called 1.-The front door with
out building" for there the portal is
very elaborate. Every child of Amster-
dam knows the exchange. The grounds
Of this building are where the little Dutch
folks are allowed to have their play
grounds for one week each year, and all
because of something which children did
nearly 800 years ago. The little ones OF
that date were playing just as they do to-
day In the canals and among the bargea.
when one lad spied a-large boat with men