davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28

What have the dressmakers devised for
the adornment Of feminine beauty during
the coming summer? When the summer
actually comes some striking novelty may
turn up which is as yet undreamed Of
but even now there are rows and rows or
lovely gowns in the shops waiting for GUS
toners any one Of which would cause a
last years frock TO blush for is evident
antiquity.
A peep into the cases of one Of the shops
far up Fifth avenue gives the impression
that the fabrics for summer gowns. ex-
Quisite as they have been for some sea-
sons past, are more ethereal than ever,
Yoiles and batistes have been reduced TO
q cobweb hneness, and, besides, there are
filmy Malines laces and hand embroidered
nets to add to the general effect of sheer
ness. Gowns are made almost entirely OF
the Malnes lace, and airy tunics OF net
are added to creations which seem elab-
crate enough to suit any reasonable per-
son without such draperies. Frills and
fluff, too, are coming into their own, and
consequently it seems not unlikely that
next summer when a woman wears a
gown into which she has put a goodly
sum, Of money, its costliness may be more
or less apparent even to the unenlightened
observer
Lingerie gowns are TO have a touch Of
the substantial. too, as. indeed, they had
last year; but now it is to be taffeta in
stead Of velvet or satin, which is TO lend
weight and dignity to summer apparel.
Probably this will sound the deathknell
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
Ethereal GosOns for Summer
Delicate Fabrics Acquire Weight and Dignity by
a Gracious Union With Taffeta

I OF the bit of black which has been the al
most invariable accompaniment Of white
costumes for time. Taneta naturally
suggests gOrgcousness of cOloring just
now. for the dyers have done their best 10
impart 10 il all the varied and changing
tints Of nature. and there seems not the
least chance that black taffeta viii make
any attempt to slip into the place for
merly occupied by the glossier velvet and
satin. II It did 1t could not met with
much success. for at its brightest 1t Is but
a dismal fabric.
There are many ways in which the union
between lingerie and taffeta may be ef-
.fected. A practical and simple method Is
10 add a little taffeta coat to a gown en-
tirely white. This has been done before
but the coat viii not be cut away as 1t
was formerly. It's front closing will incline
TO fchu form, and at the back there viii
be some sort Of appendage reaching well
toward the bottom of the skirt. If one
wishes to establish an unQuestionable re-
lationship between coat and gown, hands OF
the taffeta may be used TO trim the latter.
The one-sided effects which have been seen
I'm so many evening gowns this season are
also produced with taffeta in such way
as to use about the same quantity Of the
material as goes to the making Of one OF
the little coats One lovely gown of white
batiste has a drapery Of an old blue shot
silk over the left arm and sleeve, which,
crossing the corsage dagonally, meets at
the waist line on the left side and falls in
broad ends two-thirds of the distance down
N tho bottop of the skirt
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
6be Beauty B1xdSef

in white, although the third may look
equally well in the delicate shades men,
toned.
The brunette with high color must be
careful Her tones must be at once delicate
and vet of a certain weightiness. Gray VIII
probably prove as becoming as any color
she can choose especially IL It has touch
or two OF the tint Of her own cheeks. Black,
especially black velvet, may also be beau
tifer A brunette with an almost colorless
skin can revel in crimson, in yellow-espe-
cially in yellow-but must guard against
unrelieved white. White with dashes OF
crimson may be exceedingly becoming.
OF course, there are any number OF
women who cannot be placed in either OF
the five classes above mentioned. They
should choose their colors with the utmost
care. trying folds of one shade after an
other near the face. and always with white
in between. as a standard OF becomingness'
1t may safely be said that light colors are.
as a rule. more becoming than dark, ana
white than any color But this rule is, OF
course, not without exceptions. Unfortunate
skins. either badly frecked or blotched,
cannot stand white. (No one ought to have
such a skin, of course, but just now we are
dealing with existing, not ideal, condiuonsD
When 1t comes to ability to wear beau
tiful colors, the delicately tinted blonde has
the best of it. She can wear almost any,
thing Next to this especial type of blonde.
the brunette with the pale olive skin seems
to have the most latitude White and black
become her. so do most other deep colors,
and in blue she will probably be at her best.
She must choose the right blue, which Is
neither turquoise nor navy, but the shade
known as royal.
Now let the budget turn to those whose
youth is Enthusiastically and for this incarna-
ton irrevocably past Eschew black. Your
color is gray, in many tints; white espc-
cially white with touch OF black; laven-
der, heliotrope, amethyst. II your complex
ion is what it ought to be, and mixtures
with yellow in them, not too predominant.
however.
The above applies more particularly to
the woman who was definitely blond in her
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
INSTEAD OF Flannel
VUtueS Of Half Cotton Cash.
mere 1re Manifold.

There Is one material" said the wise
hOuse-motheT. which 10 the modern
woman takes tho place Of the old-fashioned
heavy flannel for undergarments, and even
for negigees, without having the disad-
vantage Of bulk and a great capacity for
shrinkage n 1t has TO be sent to the laun-
cry often. That Is half cotton cashmere
which can usually be bought in white and
delicate colors fer o cents a yard, yard
wide. Il washes beautifully and wears so
well that to put a little handwork on II
will prove no waste of time, while the pro-
portion OF wool in it gives the needed
warmth.
"One OF the prettiest and best wearing
kimonos | ever had was made from the
half cotton cashmere in pale blue. The
color was a trihe more blue than ] would
have preferred at first yet not at all gar
Ish trimmed It with two-inch taffeta rib
bon In the same rohin's-eEa tint. 1t has
done service FOR four years, having gone IN
and out Of the tub unnumbered times
growing softer and prcttler-to my mind
every time. During tho last year II has
grown so pale in tint that I've had Mar
gerry use an extra allowance Of blu!ng in
tho rinse water bat that has been all II
needed 20 restore the charming color.
When I say growing softer by the way, l
mean IN texture as well as hue.
For little embroidered underskir's or
combinations this cashmere Is most desir-
able. and have seen really Frenchy
rcglisec made Of the cream-white variety
embroidered with heavy white ana black
floss and trimmed with heavy creamy
lace. When 7 say that there is almost no
.wcor-out' To Il mean that 10 my per-
sonaI knowlcdce four years Of hard SER
vice from garment made Of It Is none too
r,,,1rh 10 cNnncl"
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
PAsTEsoARD PYRAMIDS.

oulte the newest conceit in imported
nIace favors has appeared from abroad IN
tho form OF miniature pasteboard pyra'
mids with tiny lowering plants seeming
"a have crown in them. The decoration
~ ,bo holder Stimulates porcelain, with a
color note 70 harmonize with that OF the
ortiaciaI blossoms surmountinG it, \ set
~ those fayors in yellow for instance II
I'm accord with the chosen color sc"eli'e
for the table setting, viii give lar
nrettler effect than favor introducing
its color solldy. With these nove''leS
there come tiny white place cards TO De
slipped among the flowers.
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
LAUNDERING LACE
Tend Water and No Rubbing
Are InUmiabIe Rules.

Persons who know nothing OF the care OF
fine laces are often driven to distraction
when they try to find out owing to the
conflicting character of the rules laid down.
Here are some words of wisdom from the
mouth Of a woman who has inherited
lot of old lace, which she launders herself
when necessary.
Boiling water. which / saw recommend
ed In a recent article on the subject, should
never be used" she says emphatically. IL
would ruin anything but imitation lace,
and even that would shrink to a string II
subjected to such treatment. Boiling water
also sets the dirt in a delicate fabric. TX
lace is to be made clean without injury TO
Itself tepid water must be used. and the
soap must never be rubbed directly upon
It, A suds Of pure soap and tepid water
is what agrees with it best, and in that
the lace should soak all night No rubbing
is one Of the rules.
"In the morning the lace should be lifted
into a new hair sieve and lukewarm water
poured over 1t until 1t runs clear. II it still
looks soiled. soak it again in suds and pinch
gently with sideways motion and soaped
fingers the spot where dirt or stain is.
w iNli al tic ulll ~ SOdhtu Out iiilSC III
bluelng water unless a very creamy tint
is desired, in which case very warm. but
not boiling, water to which a little clear
tea or coffee has been added, should be
used for the final rinsing.
Some persons prefer the tea tint to that
given by the coffee. and. in addition. there
is no odor II IS best to try a piece of
linen in the tinted water before putting in
the lace, for as the wet linen is colored
so will the lace be when 1t Is dry.
Before drying the lace wrap 1t in
piece of old cotton cloth and squeeze hard.
otherwise when it is hung to dry the color
will be deepest at the edge where it drips.
The best way to dry it, however, is to pin
it fiat on an old counterpane and lay 1t on
table so that 1t may be smoothed by
hand from time to time"
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28

With n view to having something ut Is
r,odast,v hopedO of interest 10 botn the
"r,aiden of bashfuI fifteen" as well as 10
what Sheridan evidently regarded as her
,,tithests the widow Of fifty" the Budget
rurnoees this week TO discourse Of colors.
n Is extraordinary how little many per-
sons rcpard this exceedingly important
cuestion-how easily most women are per-
sraded TO choose a tint because 1t is peau-
tiful. because II is the vogue, because soiie
one else likes IT, instead Of having one set
rule with regard to colors, the rule tha'
they must be becoming.
The idea prevailed in the minds OF our
grandmothers that black and white were
safe" We know better now. Whlte Is
becoming 10 most women, but black is try
ing 10 all but the young and TO some
brunettos. The youthful blonde derives the
most benefit from inky hues, though even
then the texture OF the material counts Tor
something. Velvet is the most. becoming
form Of black, and frail. gauzy' chinony
things run II a close second.
The notion that black is the right wear
for women no longer young is passing
slack ares. and black combined with White
ages still more On the other hand' a touch
of black and white is safe ana otten
odds 70 the appearance by bringing out any
half submerged tone of pink that may
I,pger I'm n complexion whose beauty was or
decades ago.
Here followeth n list Of more or less uh-
related facts. to be selected and used AT 'he
discretion Of the reader:
4 somewhat dull and colorless gray eye
becomes deeper in tone II blue be worn ana
actually takes on" a dove gray. your
dress lust matches your eyes has peeii
observed 10 a gray eyed woman in dove
l,red gown. The reverse was true; the
eyes matched the gown for the time the
gown was worn.
Green. If not dull or deep, Ike sage or
or,ve Green, brings out any lingering rose
tint in the cheeks. A soft mot IRON, go
does the same thing for a very blond SKIN
nm long supposed 10 belong TO the
golden haired or the red haired, produces
obarring effects with many brunettes'
shade after shade should be tried unui the
right tone is secured.
Pink. regarded as the properly ot '"'
brunette. is often very becoming 10 o,ouu
corpIexion, with plenty OF pale plhN' N,'o
green can also be worn to adVah'ase ~
pink-and-white compilations.
The average girl, with moderately sooo
complexlon. neither a pronounced oFuhel'e
nor a decided blonde, can wear almost any
color. II she does not attempt too delicate
shade of the lighter hues-plnk' put not
shell pink: blue, but not turquoise or SKY
b,ue. yellow. but not canary color; green
but not Nile green; helIotrope, but not It's
palest tones
The blonde with brilliant, rather hisn
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
A Pose That Fails Of It's End
Men Do Not Necessarily Fall at the Feet of the
Maid Who Demands Impossibilities.

dess to the quiet little mouse In the corner
who smiles her welcome on all alike, el.gl-
BILE and ineligible, and Keeps her own cOun-
sci until she sees 1T to announce her en-
gagement 10 pcrchance the only really de-
slrable man in town.
MY advice to maidens matrimonially in
Cllncd would be: Don't shout your prohlbi-
tive requirements abroad, with the eXpec-
tatlon that Il throng OF eager suitors Will
thereby be led to storm the citadel And
the woods are only too, full Of the type OF
girl who demands everything. though hay-
ing nothing to offer but herself, and that
self really not very we'll worth while"
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
NOT WORTH THE PRICE.

Don't wrap a child's hair in curriers' at
night says a writer in The IIousckecper"
Curly hair is not worth what it costs in
disturbed and restless sleep. \ hcadful Of
curriers' is just about as comfortable as a
pillow filled with clothespins. If you doubt
Il, watch the frowning face Of the child
asleep, see the restless turning of the head
and In the morning note how she yawns
and stretches and hates to get up. II hair
that IS straight must be curlod, do 1t In
the daytime and not at night.
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
FOR MATINEE SWEETS.

Smart confectloners arc showing eA-
,,,,,s,,o bogs TO hold the boxes of sweets
.hot one takes to the matinee. These
crcations are Of gold sauze ribbon or gold
cloth. combined with strips OF rich now
cred brocadcs They are drawn up WIN
the gold or silk cord and tassel and need
loss to say can be put to other uses when
,bcy have served their original purpose
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28

youth The brunette, whose eyes are dark,
and whose eyebrows still give life to her
face, Will probably do well to substitute
crimson for lavender The woman whose
tones are gray-gray hair, gray eyes, no
particular color in the face--will find moth
ing more becoming than gray In her attire
Let steel glitter wherever II can, and per-
NIT a few touches Of silver, in the form OF
embroidery, 10 relieve the neutral color OF
the gown.
The question OF texture cannot be BAN
ished from a talk about color. Dull weaves
are more trying than bright. as rule, and
cloth is rarely becoming to aught but the
fresh tints and firm outlines Of youth.
Satin. on the other hand, is sometimes a
little too brilliant for any but fresh COM
plexions. SO Is linen-white linen.
Among textures, velvet Is perhaps the
most merciful of ALL Lawns and cotton
fabrics of transparent thinness, with
silks come next.
More time should be given to considering
the effect upon the skin of both hus and
texture than the majority Of women give.
Too many OF us buy In haste, to repent
In most wearisome leisure. T.H.
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
MOURNING HANpNERcHIEEs.

4 new handkerchief designed for deep
mourning is of soft black China silk
hemned narrowly with black crepe. As
these materials are both washable. the
handkerchief does not sound impossible.
Handkerchleis OF fine white null, edged
with wide blacS Chantllly lace, are shows
at an exclusive mourning shop.
New-York tribune., 1912-01-28
DlRECTOlRE HAT OF STRAW,
TRIMMED WITH FEATHERS AND
a KNOT OF RIBBON.

complexion must also avoid the more dell
cate shades of blue and green. but espe-
clally of pink. No pink must be lighter in
tone than her own cheeks The blonde with
faint coorlng may match her eyes in blue,
her checks in pink She may revel In Nile
green and the most ethereal of amethyst
shades. II she essays golden yellow, she
must be careful to apply. skilfuly. slight
touches OF black near her face. However,
she will do we'll to leave yellow, in all its
shades, to her darker sisters.
All the above are probably at their best
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-28
Real Estate Transfers

NO. ia NAVY PLACE SOUTHEAST
Wilkes c. Prather ct al. to John p.
stuckert. lot l24, square s7s; 500
Mary A. Branch, part lot 3. square
80; so.
LONGNECKER's ADDITION TO CON-
GRESS Randolph L. Jen-
nings ct TX to William c. Worthing-
ton and Beverly ]. Smith, jr., half in
terest in lots /. 2, 3; block 8; $40.
NO. 1121 14TH STREET NORTHWEST
William NJ Brooks to Emily NJ. Betz,
part original lot II: square 247; $40:
Annie V. KiImartin ct al. to Erskine
Gordon, part original lot Is. square
20: $40.
FRIENDSHIP NJ. Moore ct vir.
Clinton NJ, to John R. McArtor, lot
MOUNT PLEASANT AND PLEASANT
PLAINS-W. Wallace Chiswell ct al.
to James A. and Medina E. Burns. lot
q, block 10; so.
NO. 81 Sd STREET NORTHEAST-Ciara
L. Wilson ct al. to James Trlmble, lot
II, square 1856; $40.
WYOMING TERRACE-Leonard Butt to
Ben B. Bradford, lot Is: $40. Ben b.
Bradford ct ux. convey same prop
erty to Caroline E. McWilliams; $40.
SHERWOOD'S ADDITION TO BROOK
LAND-Bruce Cleveland to Arthur j.
Kause lots T. s, 8. block 9; $40.
| NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. White. jr.. ct TX.
james w IutS, il, pdit AOl bIOSh u,
WOODRIDGE-Jame White. jr., ct ux..
to Henry A Vieth, lot y, square
1899: $40.
NO. e24 7TH STREET NORTHEAST
Susie G. Downs to Angus Burns, lot
131, square $50: So
ELEVENTH STREET AND VIRGINIA
AVENUE SOUTHWEST-Willia x.
Stevens to Margaret 8. Huddleson.
part original lot 2. square north OF
351; $40.
DOBBiNs' ADDITION-Alexand Millar
ct ux. to William x. Stevens. lot So;
square s123: $40.
MOUNT PLEAsANT-Richard p. Pairo
ct al, trustees, to Helen w. fairo'
lot S43, square 2S17; $3.50.
X STREET NORTHEAST between North
Capitol and 1st streets-James NJ Beall
ct ux. to Louis and Jennie Alpert' lot
37S. square 674; $40: ,
Lloyd G. Henry to Harry Wardman
lot 8, square s45; $40.
COLUMBIA HEIGHTS-Harry Wardman
ct al. to Lloyd G. Henry. lot 81. block
HoLMEAD MANoR-Harry wardman ct
al, to Lloyd G. Henry. lot l3s. block
observation-disclosures D. Hobbs to Lloyd
G. Henry, lot 81, square 1924; $40.
WOODLEY PARK-Thomas P. Bones ct
al. to Lloyd G. Henry. lot IS. block
16; $40.
INGLESIDE-Harry Wardman ct al. to
Lloyd G. Henry, lot 7s block IA; SO.
PLEASANT PLAINS-Harry Wardman
ct al. to Lloyd G. Henry, lot %, square
3O41; $40.
MOUNT PLEASANT AND PLEASANT
PLAINS-Catherine M. Markward to
David J. DUNCAN, lot g. square 1898;
$40.
SHERWOOD-Frederi H. Berger ct ux.
to Albert H. Brewood, lot %. square
4247; $40.
II STREET NORTHWEST between 22d
and 23d streets-Thomas P. Larkin ct
al. to Ellen Kane (for life) and Nellie,
John F., Stephen H. and Joseph c.
Kane remainder), part original lot 1.
square 55; SO.
OAK LAWN-Everis A. Hayes ct ux. to
Ann w. Lane, lot 20; $40.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-28
LOCAL FINANCIAL NEWS.

Lanston and Mergenthaler stocks were
the principal factors in the trading a,
today's meeting Of the stock exchange
Some thirty shares of Mergenthaler were
sold and with the exception Of one lot al
brought the current figure OF 222.
An unusual amount Of Lanston stock
came out. mostly in 1OO-share lots. Al
together over 800 shares were traded or
a range Of from 90 to 92k. which Is some
what lower than the recent prices. Al
the close the stock was offered at 93Z
with the bid at On
Fifty shares OF Capital Traction stock
in a single block sold for 1877, which is a
point lower than recent sales OF the stock
The stockholders OF the Union Savings
Bank have approved an amendment to
the charter OF the bank extending its
doing a commercial business.
The plan of having some one place
suitable for the use Of the stock ex-
change. the Bankers Association, the
house and the institute Of bank
clerks is being discussed again, and to-
day, at the request of the Bankers As
ISOLATION. through its secretary, George E.
Fleming, the stock exchange appointed
a committee to confer with committees
representing the other organizations The
committee consists of the president OF the
exchange, Benjamin Woodruff: the vice
president, c. j. Bell, and the secretary,
Allan e. Walker.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-28
Market Fails to Respond.
COTTON MARKETS.
NEW YORK.

NEW YORK, May 2S.-The cotton mar
ket opened steady at unchanged prices
to an advance of three points in response
TO rather steadier cables than looked for
following the local break Of yesterday
and covering of shorts. There was con-
siderable Liverpool buying here, as well
as the demand from recent sellers, and
prices sold up to a net advance of about
3 to 8 points during the morning There
was quite a good deal of cotton for sale
on this improvement, and much of it
appeared to come from southern sources
The rains reported in the eastern belt
were regarded as beneficial and a favor
able view was expressed of the official
forecasts. but the market worked up to
a net advance of about to Il points
during the middle of the morning on con-
tinued covering and trade buying. The
demand was encouraged by reports that
hot winds were hurting the crops in Texas
and parts of Oklahoma, while moderate
buying by trade interests was accom-
panied by reports that the decline of yes
terday had stimulated the demand from
spinners. Prices at midday were or 6
points off from the best under realizing.
Spot quiet: middling uplands, 1l-4O.
Estimated receipts at all the ports to-
day. 1900 bales, against 10. 129 last week
and 3.06 last year. For the week,
1000 bales, against 46, 173 last week and
Isis last year. Today's receipts at Gal
weston, 4,O62 bales, against 223 last year;
at New Orleans, $780, against 1,146 last
wear.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-28
INSPECTION BY SENATORS.
Subcommittee to View Proposed
Spring Road Extension.

To make a personal inspection of the
section through which IL is proposed to
make the street extension proposed in
the bill for the extension of Spring road
the subcommittee OF the Senate District
committee in charge of the bill. consist
ing OF Senators Jones. Works and John
ston, will go out TO Spring road Thurs
day morning.
Residents in the vicinity of the pro-
posed street Improvement have made OBJ
Jections to the lines OF the extension pro-
posed by the Commissioners in the bill.
and these objections were raised at a
recent hearing before the full District
committee. The Commissioners will go
with the subcommittee of senators and
explain the plans of Improvement.
Another subcommittee OF the Senate
District committee. composed of Senators
Dillingham;. Works and Johnston. went
out today TO look over the land through
which II Is proposed, in bill pending
before the committee, to extend 18th
street and Alaska avenue. The extern
sions would cut through part OF the
tract OF land formerly owned by Gov.
Alexander Shepherd and now owned by
II. K. Willard. Mr.. Willard took the SUBJ
committee out.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-28
DEFINES TRUE SCULPTURE.
Commerce Courts Ruling on Non
Dutiable Importations.

True sculpture, stirring the soul,'' is
the only kind of sculpture which may be
brought into this country free of duty,
according to ruling which has just been
handed down by the Customs Court The
court holds that an deliberately carved
marble mantel decorated with artistic
pillars and figures Is not sculpture. but
specimen Of architectural art duti-
able at so per cent advalorem-
In the decision. the court draws a line
between the ornamenter. and the sculp-
tor, declaring 1.-The ornamentalist in stone
initiates that which he actually sees and
work goes no further than to please the
eye The sculptor reproduces that which
is pictured by his imagination and his
reproduction appeals not only to the eye
but to the emotions as well.
The case was brought to the attention
of the court on appeal by New York
statuary firm.