Evening star., 1912-09-15

type of gown or costume The latest de-
| cree of the fashion makers whose ateliers
| face the Place Vendome is that the arm
| covering should be appropriate to the
garment In which il Is used. 1nnumer-
able frocks for afternoon wear In the
house or on the street have the NOUS
| quetaire clinging in shallow little folds
to the arm and there is a baggy. rather
shapeiess, long sleeve that is making
friends for itself, but beside these two
types are to be seen almost straight-cut
three-quarter effects. and there are some
eccentricities. notably belonging to the
Jackets of tailored suits. An odd-look-
Ing but very smart model in taiiormades
has sleeves whose fullness near the top
Of the arm and below the elbow is gath
cred under a self-cording strap.
4
When Is the benign influence of the
classic tunic going to terminate? It has
stood the test of several seasons, yet
again 1t appears and seems likely to re-
main throughout the coming winter. On
house gowns the Greek garment, running
longer at the back, is giving way to the
more sensible style OF even length all
round and is found In a material match
; ing that of the skirt. but of contrasting
color or shade. A model for this autumn
which has made a tremendous hit among
smartly garbed women who go in for
simple effects shows a knea-length tunic
, of violet broadcloth draped over a mar
row and perfectly plain skirt in black
broadcloth.
TUNES intended for street use-some-
how they appear to be rather out Of keep
ing for that purpose-do not contrast in
color or shade with the underskirt, but
the two materials differ. II the upper
garment is Of wool satin and the under
garment is of velvet, then the latter is
trimmed or
bands of satin. to prove that the two
sections belong together and that the
costume is not makeshift
With one famous French house bring
ing out broadcloth coats with velvet
skirts and its rival exploiting panne and
''chat mouille'' jackets with silken jupons,
it is difficult to say which mode is likely
to be the smarter. But about the radical
changes in coats there is no question.
All of them are less loosely fitted to the
figure than formerly and the tendency is
to keep the waist line at it's normal posi-
ton. For the coat which reaches almost
to the knees q general liking has been
expressed, and not few of these models
suggest the type of garb wora by the
beaux of the directoire period. 1t is
we'll known that a pretty woman rarely
looks more deliciously feminine than when
she dons a coat of the mannish order. and
that it is the sole garment which she can
safely copy from the wardrobe Of the
stronger sex.
simultaneously with the long and semi
fitting coats are appearing afternoon
costumes, including brief little coates
reaching only a couple Of inches below
the waist line. and these are undeniably
chic. and different. But will they be gen.
orally accepted? That question has yet
to be decided.
Bordered coats are back again, and
these, when well cut, have a distinctive
appearance The border, OF course, should
not be of the same shade as the garment,
and 1t is usually more effective when
considerably darker Black braid on pearl
gray of mastic is an excellent combina-
ton, and gingerbread brown is fetching
on beige A certain greatly admired
model In directoire style in beige broad
cloth is bordered below the waist, on the
enormously wide cuffs and about the col
lar with dull brown braid, thus repeating
the color scheme of the skirt of beige
worsted diagonally striped with brown.
White satin tailormades are admittedly
the most elegant of all AFTERNOON cos
tunes. Every mondaine has one in her
wardrobe and rightly regards it as her
sartorial piece de resistance, since
white get-up in silken fabric, tailor-f1n-
ished, looks equally well at small bridge
luncheon or at crush reception Not all
of these satins are wholly white. for sable
bands relieve the chalky tone of many OF
them. the pelt appearing as heading
for the tunics hem and the sleeves GUNS;
also as a piping for the pilgrimage cape.
These pilgrimage capes are SO absolute
ly useless that they would not be toler-
ated were they not SO ornamental. Sus-
pended in deep half circle that falls in
soft folds to the grdle of the gown. their
straight side runs across the back near
the nape of the neck and barely covers
the rear half Of the shoulders Obvious
ly they cannot provide any warmth. but
they are an apology for a wrap. and-if
the onlooker is charitably inclined-trans-
form the satin gown into a three-piece
costume.
For afternoon parties there are nom
tailored white satins galore. The most
stunning among them are overdraped with
black mousseline of the very wide sort
which can be taken up in great punches
and then be made to fall in artistic folds
wherever folds seem to be desirable. Were
the mousselne scanned or applied In
strips, the effect of the draping would be