The Pioche record. [volume] (Pioche, Nev.) 1908-1925, 1912-08-31
/ HE new fashions are directoire,
says Paris. but directoire with
difference. The directoire

during the past seasons were fem1-
nine directoire fashions-now the
masculine directolre modes are to
have their turn. And II ever modish-
ness was the mode for masculinity. 1t
was, In the elegant directoire days
when every chap under his dotage
was dandy-and some old fellows
In the dotage age, too. These gay
dogs, If you please, affected silk
stockings. and starched sleeve and
neck frills. and perfumed coiffures. !
They were as fastidious about their |
cosmetics as any belle of today, and |
at the same time they could handle a
sword and swallow a round of toasts
In q way that proved them anything !
but effeminate
The directoire dandy wore an oddly |
cut coat, which was somewhat like !
the modern dress coat extremely ex-
aggerated. This coat had sharply |
cutaway effectin front and tremen-
dously long tails at the back, high, !
turned-down collar, huge revers, and
long, snugly fitting sleeves. Filmy
frills escaped from the sleeves and
foamed down the front of a lively
waistcoat, between the big coat re-
vers. It is these dandified coats of
the late seventeen-hundreds that have
formed the inspiration for women's
tailored wear this season. The coat
tails, the cutaway fronts, the gay
vest, the frills. the fanciful revers are
all here, and coats are built in con-
trasting color and material to suggest
the directoire dandy's cloth coat and
satin breeches. Half of the new tail
ored wear for fall-hailing from Paris
shows the coat and skirt of contrast
ing fabrics, and the broadcloth coat
with velvet or satin skirt Is seen as
frequently as the velvet coat with a
skirt Of cloth or silk. Smooth finished
materials are in high favor, and
though rough cheviots, wide welted
serges and homespuns will undoubted-
ly be used, trotabout suits and coats,
the silky broadcloths, very soft, chif-
fony velvets. faille silks and poplin
weaves will be favored for dressy cos
tunes. A mixed weave of worsted
with mohair threads, called in Paris
permo weave. is particularly we'll
liked because of its lustrous, silky
texture, and this permo fabric comes
in all the subdued, hard-to-describe>
colorings in which the French coutu-
riers delight. A taupe shade and
deep mulberry shade are perhaps the
most distinctive.
Grays In Favor.
Grays continue in the pronounced
favor accorded them this summer.
and many Of the women who wore
nothing but black and white combina-
tons last season are now taking up
their grays. 1t is a wise woman who
-electing to dress in gray for sea-
son-selects one particular shade Of
gray and keeps to 1t. There are
dozens of shades and gradations Of
shade in the grays; there are blue
grays. mauve-grays, pink-grays; taupe.
smoke and elephant grays, and one
gray can clash with another with as
grating an effect as pink and orange
or any other outrageous color COM
bination
Two striking features of Paris fash
ions for fall are the prevalence of
pleats and the full-length sleeve. The
elbow sleeve has passed with the high
waistline-which is now relegated to
the limbo of passe fashions. All belts
are at the waistline normal; and
some of the coat effects even drop
below this point; and to make sure
that nobody shall mistake the fact
that a normal waistline is now the
mode, fashion has decreed that all
waists shall be emphasized by CIR
die. belt or sash of one sort or an
other. This is again memory Of the
directoire dandy, whose sash. If his
costume was military, was very or
namental part thereof.
Sleeves are not only long, but they
are snug. They cover the forearm
and even the wrist in all coats, frock:
and blouses intended for day-wear
Elbow sleeves in the form Of loose
lace draperies are noted on some Of
the new evening frocks, but the bare
forearm is not considered de rigeul
during the morning or aiternoon-un
less with an informal at-home cos
tune Many of the sleeves have ;
most eccentric and fanciful cut. ant
frills falling from the lower edge ant
to their length. Cuffs are enormousl!
modish and the fashionable cuff ma!
be a mere band, or deep affair
slashed, notched and garnished will
many buttons and buttonhole loops. Il
fact, buttons are the style fetish o
the fall season. No good luck cal
come to costume which does no
boast buttons in some part of 1t
makeup, and one may pay as nue.
for ones buttons as for the materia
Of ones gown. New buttons made Q
silk braid are very fashionable O
tailored coats and skirts of broad
cloth. and these braid buttons ar
used also on silk and velvet costume
with good effect.
Machine PLAT Everything.