New-York tribune., 1912-01-21
The Rohe d'Inferieulr
Parisians Are Now Giving as Much Attention
to 1t as to Their Dinner Gowns.

draped apparently on the figure, not but
toned or fastened over IT, But the drapery
Is not always arranged to promote the
effect of slenderness On the contrary
there is any amount Of bulky horizontal
trimming. as in the case Of the following
costume which created a sensation even
In the luxurious surroundings OF the tea
Just referred to-
The gown was built of citron-coloreu
charueuse and trimmed with silver lace
and martin. The loose Hopping bodlce'
well concealing any corseted lines, II there
were any, had bretelles Of the lace ana
broad band Of II about the bust ana on
the lower edge of this band, going al
about the figure, was line OF the iur'
There seemed to be no belt at the Waist
line. which, in fact. was covered by the
fall of the soft bodice band or lur en-
circled the short sleeves, whlch "ci0
finished out by long, close undersieeNeo
The skirt touched the floor and over 'n''
was q tunic. short in front and making
dsh tail train behind, of the same mae
rial and with a band of lace headed py lu'
a. tho bottom of il. To be sure the tram
and the long. close sleeves gave lenSth W
,ho costume but at the same time the
egure was twice cut by the heavy fur ana
| lace trimming.
| This toilette was completed by green
velvet hat rolled upon one SIDE with an
,,ns,ard,ng silver aigrette The tone of the
costume was yellow verging into green
This ,s only one of the unusual color
schemes we see now. There Is such
craze for the picturesque that any ouu anu
rather neglected color is dug up ana 'i'eu
| in combination with some other ulusua, !,
shade. Among these oddities are some oi
the shades that were once associated Win
the early aesthetic movement, such as puce
color and all shades OF yello"yereeh VI
greenish yellow.
Dull sulphur color in ratine makes ne"
street costume, which has most curious
arrangement of pockets. or rather slihu-
lated pockets. The coat, which Is lohs
enough to cover the hips, is one OF the ne"
cut. with farng skirts, and is loosely con-
fined about the waist with belt OF ourhl
leather. on each side is a huge pocket Oh
! green CLOTH braided in the color OF the rat-
inc with touc' OF brown. These pockets
are directly on the hips. and the flap Oh
them passes up under and hangs over inc
belt The skirt is narrow, appears mar
rover In comparison with the full sKlrt Oh
the coat. and the side panels tasteh over
the front breadth with a large cloth out-
ton.
1t seems hardly possible that these tuH-
skirted coats will have any permanent
success After the taors have been "orh-
ing for years to perfect their line 30 DE-
10 present the beautiful results that '"e
modern tailored costume shows II seethS
hardly possible that they will sacrihce IT,
Still Il Is always in their interest 10 Gre
ate something new, something that the less
skilful In the trade cannot turn out. Inc
close fitting coat that melts into the line
OF the skirt Is not the mystery that II was
a few years ago. and from the sartorlSl
point OF view It is time for something new.
But are women going to care for the new
idea which will take away from the de-
lghtful slimness OF hips that they have
worked so hard to achieve?
French women are now wearing much
longer walking skirts than was the Gus
tom a year ago The very girlish style OF
costume that the American woman really
introduced into Paris has been dropped or
reserved only for sports or the country.
French conditions OF town life do not make
Il necessary here as It seems TO be In
America, and It does not suit the Paris
type. To be languid, luxurious and slow
moving Is the present standard OF elegance
Whether American women Will take up
Longer and more draped street suits or not
is doubtful, but they will certainly be pre-
sented with the next importation or Paris
models. NJ. A. f.