Evening journal., 1912-01-06
d-FashionedFIouncesa and chantiIIy Lace ShawIs
Radical Changes Taking
Place in Sleeves, New
and Quaint Models APP
pesring.
THE WHITE
BLOUSE IN FAVOR

white satin underslip is cut. A mar
row band of marabou edges the bre-
telles and the shawl. while a deep
fringe of silk and beads finishes the
bottom of the front panel.
Bretelles and fchus arc showing re-
markable tenacity, and in spite OF
many forecasts of their early disap-
pearance, they even promise we'll for
the coming spring and summer. SIM
pie and becoming black dresses for
informal evening parties are made OF
black chiffon cloth over black silk,
the straight tucked skirt slightly gath
cred 10 the high waistline. The
sleeves are elbow length, and around
the Y neck is worn full black net
fichu. The fchu Is made Of a square
of net, bordered all around with a
very full triple boN-pleated frilling
about an inch wide. II is not worn,
however, around the shoulders and
crossed in front in the old-fashionod
way Instead il is put on bertha
fashion, the deep point coming nearly
to the waistline in front, and the ends
carrid up over the shoulders. crossed
in the back, aud tucked into tho girdlo
just back OF the elbows. II is quaint
arrangement, but its unusualness is its
charm, aud il is extremely becom-
ing.
White lingerie dresses, simply made,
worn with hchus of white net or lace,
are also among the tasteful things wo-
men like to have, and, indeed, they
need little trimming besides the ichu,
which is almost universally becom-
i - Of NnhII
we have the recrudescence of the drop
ped shoulder and the quaint sleeves OF
| the middle of the Nineteenth Century.
Few sleeves now are openly set into
| the armholc. In some cases where
waists and coats are made OF a soil
i bulky material, which would make too
thick a seam about the arm, and yet
need a firm support at that point the
sleeve is set into the lining at the
regular armhole and the.upper part or
the garment finished independently
and brought we'll down over the sleeve
in the long shoulder effect, now ap-
proved.
The long close sleeve seems to be
forcing itself into recognition; It IS
set into the dropped shoulder with
out any fulness across the top. and Is,
of course, liked by women with shape
i ", well-proportioned arms, but Tor
those who cannot yield all az once and
unreseryedly TO a new mode, there IS
a delightful sleeve made close above
and below, with a full puff inserted at
the elbow. In this model the gaunt-
.llet or lower part must tit very close
, and smooth from the wrist to the ell
: bow, where the puff begins. The pun
. is Joined at the top to the waist which
I comes some two or three inches down
over the shoulder In regular kimonc
/ effect This style of sleeve afords
( excellent opportunity for the use o
I two materials, as many dresses arr
r now made.
;, Bishop sleeves are also promised
K aud are already seen in some Of tn
new velvet frocks, but they are bishol
S sleeves of new order. not at all lik
{ the great affairs worn when they
Q were last in fashion. The fulnes
& nowadays is slight. and Is set into I
/. shapoly cuff we'll fitted TO the waist.
I But IN spite Of the changes an'
4 rumors Of changes. the kimono sleeve
I is still intrenched in the heart of III
{ friends.
p In figure . we have a dress cut OF
o popular lines, retaining the kimono ol