Imperial Valley press., 1912-11-06
THE SEASONS FASHIONS


to break the line in the fashion race.
These materials are shown in a great
er variety than ever and the vogue
for plaids and figured materials Of ali
kinds gives the manufacturers a splen-
did opportunity to ring in many novel
ties that are pretty.
other Observation-Disclosures is not
necessary. Do not take it, however,
that trimmings are not used, because
they are and in the most luxurious
ways. They are elegant, too, more
elegant than ever before in the history
of dress garnitures.
Little coats show remarkable variety,
but whether cut square or round, they
are characterized by many little deta1I,
of finish or trimming that stamp them
as being absolutely new. A new fea-
ture of the rounded model is the broad
sailor collar. In former days women
of fashion were inclined to like the
regulation coat collar and small revers
for coats on the cutaway style, but the
new collar makes pretty addition and
gives an air of dressiness to a design.
1t is usually made perfectly plain with
out even the customary binding of flat
silk braid.
splendid m odel in black and white
figured velvet shows the skirt laid in
narrow side plaits at the bottom with
the overskirt falling over the plated
flounce in pointed effect. The coat has
a vest of white felt embroidered with
a design of black and red. The
sleeves are elbow length, finished with
large crochet buttons. The front of
the coat is cut away generously
that even the small pockets on either
side of the white vest, stitched even
with the waist line, show.
Handsome little box coats are shown
in some of the plaid velvets and cloths,
with fronts closed up to the neck where
they are finished with a high rollin &
collar opening at the front and finished
with a tie of the same material In
almost every instance the collar is the
cnly bit of trimming about the coat.
This may be of striped silk, braided
satin, velvet of an entirely different
kind or any of the fabrics that serve
the dual purpose of dress furnishing r
trimming.
Skirts are still demanding attention
and are, in fact, the bone of contention
with many of the leading dressmakers
of Paris All Paris seems commit ed
to a trifIe more width to the silhouette
at the hips and in the upper skirt, es-
pecially for formal occasions, and in
the upper skirt with scantiness below,
it is not so much their outline as tn cir
complication that sets apart some of
the most famous models. 1t is this
same complication that in the opinion
of a mojority of the critics offsets the
beauties of the models.
In some of the creations of a we'll
known French house with American
connections, there are quantities of
things that demand attention, although
there are just as many that are un-
wearable from the standpoint of the
average woman. Among the beautiful
effects is blue crepe combined with the
same blue crepe embossed in red vel
vet design. The skirt has the widened
hip line, but handled with simplicity
that commends it even 70 the conservo
tive, and there are long sleeves to ac-
centuate the simplicity of the model
The high collar with its narrow band
of fur and its deep fall of lace is chic
but not inevitably becoming.
All through the province of the new
modes one finds prominence given to
the high, tight collar with fur edge or
with falling or flaring frill. To some
women this collar is exceedingly be
coming, the line of soft fur or flare Of
soft lace setting off the face effective
Oh h;.ir
neck or heavy chin such a collar .s,
of course hopeless.
Fortunately for her there are still
high close transparent collars and
many forms of the rolling collar leav-
ing the throat or at least the front nf
the throat free. A variation upon the
fur trimmed collar liked by some of
the French makers is the collarless
neck with finish of fur around the base
of the throat. sometimes dipping down
in n very slight point at the front
Here again, one has a mode trying I,
| many women, though charming enough
for one with white, slender throat.
OF so-called Medici collar arrange
ments by which the fashion makers
seem to mean anything in the collar
| line that rolls upward and flares a lit
tie there is no end and these merge
| into Directoire shapes; but the low
| collars, flat or rolling and the low cut
necks without collar are modish :.s
| ever. The high collar and Directoire
collar are practically noticeable in con
nection with the new costume coats
| and separate coats, many of the smart
est models showing this type of collar
| e ba fa an,iliar flat col
lar and revers, shawl collar, etc.
The new coat is very likely to faster
snugly across the chest, though it may
be so cut that when open the fronts
will roll gracefully back. Often it not
| only fastens quite up to the base of the
throat but has a high collar of fur
| clasping the throat tightly.
The war of long sleeves goes merrilv
on, but more long sleeves are being
shown as the season grows older. II
| will be remembered that the Iona
sleeve of the spring frock was almost
, invariably the close fitting model, very
tight below the elbow and finished with
| frill of lace or tulle falling over the
hand and running up to the outside
| seam of the sleeve almost to the ell
| bow. This sleeve still appears, but II
has been adopted for SO many of the
cheap models that it has lost caste and
the designers try to introduce varia-
| tions upon the theme.
! A sleeve that appears on some very
good models is quite wide all the way
| tc bottom, has a cuff reaching to the
| elbow and on the outside little above
| the elbow. This cuff is opened on the
outer arm, with button holes on one
side and buttons on the other, and near
| the bottom frill of lace emerges from
this opening and falls in a soft little
| jabot over the outside of the hand
! Long sleeves of contrasting material
| are used in some of the French bodicas
| and the half and three quarter length
| sleeves are usually draped in one way
| or another.
Mrs. w. E. COx-Music Teacher
Studio on Broadway, near Fifth. Spe-
cial attention to latest methods. Pupils
| may enter for fall term now.-Adv