The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1912-06-13


b we'll exploited catches hold of
81 ~ the public mind in an ama2-
ingly strong way, writes Anne
Rittenhouse in the Boston
Herald. Each season has its special
little point; each great house has its
special way OF exploitation; last year
1t was the revolutionary slash in the
skirt: this year it is the tlounce near
the knee.
The latter is not one hundredth part
as much of an experiment as the for
mer Not since the days Of the direc-
toire did women attempt anything so
daring as the division of plain skirt
Every one thought the world had gone
mad when the idea was again taken
mold of a year ago and the world was
rather right, for Worth has most pun
gently said that when the times are
crazy woman's dress is crazy.
There are students of sociology and
laymen who are not averse to saying
that the times are quite crazy enough
10 suit any one, and it is probably
for that reason that we see such lib
critics taken in the name of clothes.
Whatever the reason, it is better to
face the truth that the Directorie
slash in a skirt was not only projected
but accepted, and while we see it on
every hand, especially in evening
gowns, there is little comment, if any,
concerning it.
Now the lounce is more modest
hA c1o &c
reveal; the other an effort to conceal.
The iounce means more, however
than merely this to the majority. 1t
sounds the knell of the freaish tight
skirt. 1t implies the recrudescence of
drapery 1t means to the average
mind that women will now be clothed
and it is. therefore, the symbol of
modesty.
it is a hard-heartcd thing to start
out to overturn this impression, be-
cause there are many who cling TO it
as a sign of returning moral grace on
the part of women, whom they think
have lost all the finer senses during
this prolonged debauch of eccentric
and conspicuous dressing.
Yet the truth remains. The flounce
as it is today may be a symbol Of
something that is to come after many
moons, but it doesn't mean much
change in narrow skirts and slim sill
Louettes for the present. There is no
doubt that any drapery is a graceful
addition to a too tight, too plain skirt,
~ q e .I1y &c eli md
economically cut that it adds little to
the fulness of any skirt. However, it
breaks the line that has become too
severe and too close for many figures
Naturally, the woman who is long
of limb and slim of hip is vain enough
to want to wear the silhouette skirt,
which gives her more grace, or rather
displays what grace she has, but even
with banting and dieting and exercise
every woman has not acquired grace
even If she has been abandoned by
flesh.
But if fiounces are to be in fashion
then we will wear fiounces, for 1t is
what the people get that the people
pretend they want, which is twisting
Mr.. Lfncoln's saying out of any origin
al semblance to its truth. Cecile
Sorel, allied to Redfern, is credited
with the innovation in the way of lace
founces. which she translates as the
adaptation of Louis XVI. styles.
Over Pink Satin Skirt.
In the manner they arc used now
1t is a long way after the gowns of
l,,| Ill
term. One Of the best of these
frocks has a 15-inch lace f1ounce
draped over a shell pink satin skirt
beginning well above the knees in
front and draped around to a deep
point at the back.
This gives a certain fulness at an
important line, for the tightness at
the knee was always the ugliest fea-
ture of the new skirt; if the lace
founce is full, it, too, is ugly, for,
mind you, the lower skirt has not
changed its width during all this talk
Of increased fulness, which has been
going on since January. The founce
must be scant to be in keeping with
the line beneath, and it therefore re-
mains not much of an addition after
all.
The tunic, which has been growing
in favor every day, is really far more
of an addition in the way of fulness
than the flounce, and people paid
very little attention to it as an expert
ment in width; the reason they are
harping so upon the 1ounce is that
the word, which is the same as ruffle,
carries a direct thought of fulness to
the minds of most people.
How the Flounce Is Used.
There Is such variety of opinion
about the best way to use a flounce
among the dressmakers that one can
see almost any kind of experiment,
good and bad, among the new models.
The majority cling to the feeling that
the flounce must be arranged with
out fulness, so We see on the new
taffeta frocks as well as the smart
little serge and corduroy ones either
FIVE or six fiounces which are put on
without a gathering string and are
shaped like petals at the lower edges