Arizona republican., 1912-09-25

effect. It would seem that each one of us should choose the model best adapted to her needs without difficulty. In a general way, 1t is true that cutaway effects will be much used but the straight line appears also and altogether there is ex- ceptional opportunity for that develop ment of the best n oneself that makes the fundamental rule for the best dressing. Fabrics are surprisingly beautiful too, so that this present autumn is an exceptional one in many ways.
 For the every day costume that is always one of the greatest needs, rough finished cloths are to be much worn,. and cheviot, homespun, camel's hair and zibelline are shown both in plain ColOrs and in mixtures. For the more elaborate costumes for afternoon occasions, velvet, corduroy, broadclOth and some of the new wool materials that are woven after the manner of eponge and also a wool velours are smart. The velOurs is just what the name implies, wool material with a velvet surface. For the heavy winter suit, 1t is beautiful but for the earlier season, lighter materials are in demand. Velvet is to be much used for handsome costumes and velvet this season means generous variety, for the material is to be found in moire
 
 two-toned effects quite as we'll as the plain, familiar sort. Heavy silks of the poplin order are liked for the autumn and are exceedingly beautiful and moire velvet is being much exploited. It is a beautiful material and handsome for trimming as well as for entire suits and will be extensively used for collars and the like upon wool foundations.
 Skirts continue straight and narrow in effect but great many of the new ones show plaits, either as panels or let in at the seams or utilized one way or another that means a greater actual widening without affecting the general lines; that is to say, the plaits are so arranged that they give freedom for walking, yet hang per fectly straight while the figure is in repose. As result of all these changes, the autumn suit Is a most delightful one, smart in effect, pleasant to look upon, thoroughly comfortable to wear and alto gether satisfactory.
 Buttons are to play somewhat of an important part but they will be of moderate size, the extremely large ones having been overdone. Stripes and nannish suitings are always practical and will be much worn and they make an excellent background for trimming of pldln VelVet. O1ten little note of color IS added by the use of piping on these last and bright red often is seen. Flat braid is much used as trimming, too. Sometimes 1t binds the edges, sometimes 1t is applied flat, but in whatever way it Is used, it is handsome.
 Color always should be a question of what is becoming rather than a fashion but, nevertheless, it is expected that a great deal of smoke gray, some new blues and generous quantity of dark red will be worn this season. Trimming of fur is to be used on a great many handsome suits. too, and often the back of collar will be made of fur while the front portions are of the material, and again, we will see an edge of fur round a big collar and on the cuffs, so that we may look for fur utilized in number of ways. A novelty is found in trimming corduroy with plain velvet, and brown must be added to the list of colors. As brown is particularly beautiful in corduroy, we will have some very charming effects. Smoke gray with trimming of black is handsome and dark red IS beautiful with black trimming, while among the new blues are some that lend themselves to black braid with perfect success. Porcelain is not an entirely new blue for we have seen 1t before, but if comes to us with some slight variations