The evening world., 1912-03-18
Men Kiss Strange Women
in Paris to ShoW an APP
probation Of Nice
Cowns and the Fair
Creatures Don't Resent
It, but Like It.

Marguerite M0oers Marshall.
Is the modern uoman beautifully
dressed!
"Woman's dress to-day Is infinitely
more beautiful than 1t was ten years
ago." declares Harrison Fisher. II
like the modern fashions; they seem
to me artistic and elegant" Is the
verdict OF Alonzo Kimball. II don't
know how any one could expect to
discover anything more beautiful
than the modern evening Dress" con-
fesses James Montgomery Fyagg. II
have much praise for the great mod.
ern designers Of costumes for
women" says Robert Henri. 80
many things about modern dress are
beautiful" adds Mrs. Emma Lampert
Cooper.
And John W. Alexander. the cele-
brated portrait painter and President OF
the National Academy N Design. con-
cludes the chorus Of proise.
with . very few exceptions Z
ana modern d.sss to b extremely
beautiful" he told me ysstsrday.
1T sxesls both In oole4 a1A In line.
1~corsovsr, In America thsSe - .
distinct movement among design
srs 70 produce An American arssS
whioh viii combine the best char.
aetsT1sdcs Of the costumes Of sev.
sral nations. The result Of this
-AAA-A~A a.. -. >>A-A>. -AAN -
70 make the American WOMAN the
best dressed IN the world.
This effort for q national dress Is
being brought about by two causes. One
Is that the American woman - IN es-
sentially different physical type from.
say. the Frenchwoman. The latter 10
petite. slight and distnctively feminine.
Devotion to sports and athletics has
made the American tall and broad.
shouldered. The gowns made In Paris
for French women do not become her.
AMERICAN CLOTHES COMING IN.
TO THEIR OWN.
"Also the Partisan costumers have
long indulged in the practice Of work.
Ing off especially exaggerated designs
on travelling Americans. These have
been bought for their labels. and they
have not in the past been held up to
Judgment by their owners for their act
ual beauty. or the reverse.
Now this state Of affairs Is chang.
ing. Our women are beginning to have
thelr own standards OF beauty and
good taste. and our hon designers are
studying models which Will satisfy the
most eXacting standards. Therefore
dlstinctlvely American clothes are com.
..ig into the.r own / predlcs that In
he end we shall succeed in raising the
standards of the foreign dressmakors
whom we ave subsequently copied Tor
SO long
And what are the special cter-
ist!cs OF this new schoo! Of Dress"
asked NJ. Alexander.
For one :h!ns. there Is greater In.
s~.stence OF line" ne replied. Line l:
; quite as important a factor in the de
signing o: clothes a. in the painting
OF u picture. By the right manipulation
Of the line, the proper adjustment o,
trimmings and ~stitchiuGs. the careful
dresslnaker can make the stout woman
look slender. or. at least. make hel
real measurements less obvious. By
another arrangement OF the line IN,
thin woman loses her angNlarity. 1t al
despnds on the cut OF the costume.
ALSO. ] see in this new school o.
dress u certain purity n severity Of
design. The beautiful dress. 10 IN,
mind, IS not buraened with a mass o.
irrelevant ornaments, OF conflicting
shades. Neither Is ct q dull monotone
Tie IDEAL Is Il costume OF one shade
relieved by vivid touches of ano.he,
cont.as;.Sg tint, which makes the whoi,
des.sn stand out clear-cut In the mem
. CRY, And that is exactly the e.fect
whl,h many American designers are
achieving"
PARIS WOMEN WEAR CHARMING
DRESSES m STREETS.
Then Mr.. Alexander sighed L hi
wL.mslcally. "In America there Is =,
much less facility for observing beaut!'
fu! clothes aGd .aclr wearers thar
abroad he lamcnted. over tier,
women wear charming dresses IN th'
streets and expect the intelligent nd
miration Of all beho.iegs. One OF tn
preti!est things | ever saw was an IN
voluntary tribute Of such admiration