The state herald., 1912-11-29

~ YOU want to get away from the
q world OF trusts and strikes and
monopolies, away from the clan
gor of car bells and the shrieks
of itlnerant newsboys, and back
TO a time when, four times day, the
long-pronounced walls OF score of
muezzeius sound from as many min
Rrets; where competition is unknown
and there are no labor unions, go by
rail across Macedonia to Adrianople.
the strategic point in every trans
Macedonian war;
Half an hour after midnight pro-
verbal black Turkish night, with the
crickets singing and the boys peddling
water at the stations, the east.bound
Rll-Macedonian express deposited me
at a station labeled Karaghatch-
somewhere this side OF Constantin-
ople undoubtedly. but how far from
my destination. the old capital OF the
Ottoman empire. Adrianople, had not
the faintest idea. There was light
baggage examination. for ! came here
from Salonika and there is always a
baggage examination between pro-
vinces in Turkey, and then they went
for my teskeret or internal passport
Where ! had come from, where had
told the Salonika police / was bound
for, what country hailed from. my
profession, general characteristics.
etc, all were copied IT, the feeble light
OF a station lantern. while the crickets
sang on and the hours grew ever
wee'er and wee'er.
Finally, after registering the names
OF the newspapers | represented. I was
turned loose TO find my way. There
were two or three ramshnckle cabs
standing about and ! hired the one
whose driver seemed TO have least OF
the bitterness OF life written in his
face.
over lone. dark fields and down a
pike, feebly lit by gas lamps. over
bridge across the Martha. into which
my cicerone could have hurled the in.
fidel passenger and no man been the
wiser, and up to the doors OF the Hotel
America think OF M. was taken
It was one by the town clock when we
galioped thus into Adrianople.
BY means OF a narrow door we en-.
tered a courtyard. surrounded by low
veranda, onto which the guest rooms
opened. II took up another half hour
TO wake the proprietor and then was
given bed. ! ras again In America.
withal in the heart OF Turkey. at last,
Afraid to Walk Streets.
Waking early that next morning the
prospect was not reassuring A rasze
OF gray.brown roofs stretched OF on
every hand. That was all After an
experienced IN Monastir. where we had
been arrested for walking the streets,
under the plea that they mistook me
tor spy dared not venture forth
Ia this city without authorized guide,
and that gentleman was not at leisure
until 1913. ! beguiled the time as
does every other stranger thus put 10
II Ia Adrianople. with Myer. the Bae
deker OF the Balkans. attempting Ia
learn what We could Of the city beyond
the fact Of It's containing branch Of
the Ottoman bank. and Austrian. as
well as Turkish postoiilces. which il
always the fact thrust first on the
traveller
This Adrianoplc. the old capital Of
turkey In Europe lies at the Junction
Of the Martha, the Arda and the
Tundsohe rivers. In most fertile val
ley. Now the capital OF the yllayet or
province Of the same name. Adrian.
oplc. has fallen from its former glory.
and. as was already aware. was made
up OF narrow, crooked. badly.plastercd
streets. dirty ~ IL only Turkey In de.
radcnee, withal that movement was
now on foot for Widening the main
thoroughfnre. The town IL built al.
most entirely OF lightly constructed
ahRniou. with gardens and cobbllny
walks until Il takes on the appearance
of an oyergrown village. Its populA.
tlon nevertheless IL aot at 81 500. and
AdriRnoplc IL probably the only place
IA the ottoman empire whore popula.
tlou n being estimated. for tho sultan
has pleasant habit OF holding tho
province governors responsible for
amounts Of taxes proportlonate to
population. and no these usually do.
ceiyo and lower the figure Chris.
HnnH. however toll you that owing TO
the great emigration to America IN.
population Of Adrienoplo today Ia not
nver. n 80 much NJ. 4b.2OO of which
about 10000 are Mussulmon. while