Evening journal., 1912-03-23
BORDERED V0IES AND sPRIGGED MUSLINS

NEW YORK, March 23.-We have
been so busy with silks and satins and
lightweight wooden goods for spring
that we have failed to give considera-
tion to the lovely voiles or marqul-
settes of which we are going to make
our summer dresses. These are so
charming with their borders of con-
trasting color or their sprigged flower
patterns that we wonder how we can
have overlooked them. Some of them
are white with colOred borders, but
attractive color combinations are most
popular, such as tan with brown bor-
ders or effective green ones against
blue or black against green. With
princess slips Of silk underneath these
materials make up into dresses simple
enough and yet pretty enotngh to do
service on many occasions They can
be worn to the afternoon card party,
to the informal tea or for making calls
but at the same time are just as appro-
pirate for church or for the shopping
tour Just such a dress, you see, as
the American woman loves, because
IL is like a tried and trusted friend.
ohAAtu " OQl tNGll liOpQs
This illustration shows the pleasing
effect of tan voile over a tan silk slip.
The dark brown border is applied 70
the front and sides of the skirt and
front of the waist in semblance of a
braided pattern deep collar and
turned-back cuffs Of Cluny lace finish
the costume with simple elegance The
clever little hat is entirely en- suite
with the dress, being made of shirred
'affeta. the same as the underslip and
trimmed with a large maline bow of
the tan shade OF the voile. Quite In
keeping with the color scheme are the
roses on the front of the hat, shading
from brown TO tan with centers of
vivid yellow.
AS yet the plain skirts are most in
evidence, but the seeing eye can dis
cern the shadows of coming events in
these same Powered voiles and the
dainty sprigged muslins which are
their cheaper replica. Gathers and
draperies are the only logical depelop-
ment for lowered materials. Our
grandmothers, who wore them, made
them up with reason into full skirts
and Dolly Warden panniers, and even
the woman who thinks her mind is
above such mundane interests as
clothes perceiyes the lack of sequence
between sprigged muslin and the Sc
we're lines Of the prevailing modes.
II we may accept the prophecies OF
the dressmakers' openings now in
progress, all the thin dresses and even
the silks this summer will be gather
ed. Many Of them are slightly draped
besides. The model illustrated in Fig
J. simple as it is is suggestive Of
drapery TO the raiment seer What
more feasible than to adapt it to the
style by catching up the side cores
at the sashed seams and tacking
them in three tucks near the turn Of
the trimming band Slightly bouffant
effects of this sort have appeared and
women Of pronounced tendencies in
dress have adopted them Their more
conservative sisters are holding their
breath, materially speaking, awaiting
the asserting voice of the people be-
fore flinging themselves headlOng into
the stream Of drapery.
OF course, not all women can wear
bouifant skirts, but those who cannot
have had their innings for several
years. Now the slender form will come
TO its own. and disport itself in pan
niers of muslin, yoile or silk The new
silks are soft enough to look we'll, too.
made MP in this fashion, and the most
exquisite, pin-striped patterns are
among the novelties. In two shades Of
blue. in blue and white. tan and
brown, and the ever present black and
white, they spread their shimmerine
folds on all the counters TO tempt the
| beauty-loving souls Of women
In figure two is illustrated a spring
coat suit made of'black and white pin
stripped taifeta. The straight lines OF
the skirt are as they should be. for the
new draped effects ere entirely out of
order in the coat suit The coat is on
the new lines. outlining the figure
with no hint of padding or canvas to
give il that stiff. soldierly look here
tofore considered the proper attitude
for a coat White taffeta collar and
cuffs and large white buttons trimmed
with black are the smart accessories.
Notice the hat with its ties Of mar
row black velvet ribbon A whisper
from a leading millinery authority
prepares us to expect the addition Of
ribbon or velvet ties to hats Of every
shape except the sailor or confessedly
tailored hat It is a pretty and a be-
coming fashion. and though a warm
one on a hundred degree July day,
will doubtless be adonted for its soft
ening effects upon the lines of the
face and the tints of the skin
The size of the hat is another note
worthy feature. for II is a presaee OF
/ the return Of large hats which have
been laid aside for a while This will
( be welcome news 10 the women whC
I love large hats and hate small ones
/ The small hat is undoubtedly smart
but unless It is carefully placed OF
/ the head and worn just at the nropei
angle IL is anything but a pleaein'
spectacle Women. especially oldei
women should know inst what shape
10 choose in a small hat for unless
the lines are RIGHT. tooue and turhaI
refuse to COMPROMISE with the fea