Evening journal., 1912-03-30
VITAL INTEREST in SHIRT-WAIsT PROBLEM

NEW YORK, March 3O--Some Gym
ical man has said there is no surer
test of woi0an's friendship for woman
than a willingness to exchange shirt
waist patterns. Certainly the shirt
waist has come to be a fundamental
in the feminine world AS spring
draws near and the first languorous
days remind us that we must replen-
ish our supply of thin lingerie blouses
against the sweltering days Of July
and August. we become vitally inter-
ested in the shirt-waist problem. This
season Ike ner edge is given the Gus
tomaiy debate by the presentation Of
the claims Of the one-piece dress. Ad-
vocates of the latter fashion urge in
its favor the ease with which it is put
on and off. II is always ready, say
they, and can be donned in FIVE min
utes in case of an unexpected caller,
thus saving, both hostess and guest
time and temper strained by a long
wait Another point which recon-
mends it is that the waist gathers
are always perfectly adjusted and
sewed- to position, obviating the un-
slightly and unbecoming hunch in the
back. in which the best hammered
shirt waist will sometimes indulge.
This illustration is an example Of
all these claims. /. is one of the best
designs for this form OF dress as It
succeeds I'm having an air Of fashion
Thile being easily within the powers
Of the amateur seamstress. Pale blue
men was used i'm making it and it is
effectively trimmed by the collar and
cuffs Of all over embroidery.
In spite of the undeniable beauty Of
this costume, friends of the shirt waist
refuse to sacrifice that well establish
ed garment To your representations
about the expense Of washing, the
time taken to put in the buttons and
adjust the collar, and various other
| perfectly legitimate objections, their
ready reply is that there is no smart
/ or nor more comfortable style Of dress
TO be had.
There is no doubt it is a better
| fashion for the business woman. The
skirt of the linen one piece frock does
not keep fresh for more than couple
OF days of service in the office. and
then the whole dress must be laun-
dered a far larger item in the bill
| than a single waist Besides, the wo-
man who likes to sew and embroidor
! Cand what truly feminene soul repu-
dates eitherO, can spend her spare
hours i'm the construction of blouses
which express her own individuality
with. far less expenditure of much
needed energy than would be required
for making a whole dress.
All this, by way Of preamble. to the
discussions of the shirt waists for
1912. There is greater tendency to-
ward simplicity in the new waists,
which is a great gain for smartness.
Some are still fastened up the back
but there is a very pronounced pro-
clivity for front closing. This gives
opportunity for the prettiest of but
ions and both crochet and crystal but
/ tons are seen on the best waists. As
10 materials. nainsook, mercerized ba-
tiste. lawn. marquisette and scrim are
used with equal impartiality, all OF
them being preferred TO linen, which
has fallen into disgrace because OF
its bad habit of wrinkling-
AS for sleeves. the kimono sleeve Is
relegated to the limbo OF passe fash
ions. although it has left a we'll DC
fined likeness upon the sleeve now II
vogue. This is a plain sleeve, SCI
without fullness into an armhol'
dropped we'll down off the shoulder
Summer blouses viii have the three
( quarter. straight sleeve for comfort
but a popular cut will be the lone
plain sleeve to the wrist fitted TO tn
arm. from wrist to elbow, by man.
{ small. lengthwiso tucks, or in the one
, seam sleeve, by an overlapping tucf
: folded over and fastened by hooks an
! loops after the waist has been don
{ ned
{ The little bloused effect over tn
: belt is again in favor though not wit
the extreme bagginess of other days
when the waist was pulled out an
fell in a pouch three or more inche
deep in front This was hand
fashion, for the pouch was a convent
; ent receptacle for handkerchief
e gloves, powder rag. and the variou
!, small paraphernalia which in thes
!, pocketless days women find so muc
trouble in disposing OF.
Narrow belts are again in favor an
will be much worn with the shir
!. waist dress This summer. Suede leatt
= er IN the color OF the skirt is a favorii
while black patent leather is also iii
A