davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-03

To Hdrasscd Commuter Wife.
 Our next letter is addressed to the woman whose husband Is tormented by borrowing neighbors of the gentler sex. They do their
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17
BY Rene Mansfield.

BY Rene Mansfield
down, at, either side. The straight,
standing cottar Of the coat was OF braid
embroidered silk, as was the narrow
straight vest the wide cuffs and false
pockets on either side.
Prophetic Of the passing Of the one
sided effects are the suits which but
Ton straight up the front. The high
closing is seen on many attractive suits
also, as welt as on the majority of
the separate coats.
FEATURES OF THE NEW COATS.
Goats show little that is new for the
winter season, most Of them having the
characteristics Of the tate summer mod
els. They are usually made up from
rough materials, such Is chinchilla and
bouele, fabrics having a diagonal weave
being particularly Favored. Some Of
the boucie coats have collars OF plush,
and the chinchilla coats are likewise
relieved with collars and cutfs Of plush,
Or chtnchtl1a Of a contrasting shade.
Shawl collars and wide cuffs are In
good style, but the high-buttoned eff
fects win prove both Fashionable and
practicable for severe weather.
Deep-cut armholes are used almost
entirely on the separate coats, the
square armhole representing the latest
development Of this style.
One Of the most attractive coats that
has been shown this season was a tan
chtnchfifa that had a collar and reSer
made IN One piece, OF brown broad
cloth, the rever being very wide and
extending over the shoulder to FORM q
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17

large sailor collar, which was some
what deeper at the left. This oblique
edge OF the color emphasized the one.
side effect The coat fastened low at
the front, with Two large fancy buttons,
set close together-a way Of placing
buttons that is a feature of fall novel
ties.
Added warmth Is given to many Of
the coats which are made UP in the.
shoulder cape style. One might easily
dispense with furs when wearing one
or these comfortable garments. a good
looking one Of gray zibeline had a
pointed shoulder cape with cutaway
effect In the 'front.' The cape was lined
with a bright blue chiffon broadcloth.
and the buttons and straps that
trimmed the coat were attractively
piped with the broadcIoth also.
DIRECToIRE MODES PREVAIL
IN gowns, as wen as suits and outer
garments, the Dfrectoire note prevails,
dividing hdnors with the panier styles
Close fitting skirts that reveal the form
from waist to feet and having mod
crate trains, are being worn by women
who are always gowned according TO-
the latest dictates Of fashion.
A chic little gown, illustrating the
latttude which couturiers permit them
had the waist IN the Directofre
stylene vide pointed revers and col
lar reaching only to the shoulders
while TIE skitt WAS a panier model,
fastener down the side with ban but
tons and drapet over an accordion
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17

pleated foundation The accordion
pleating came well above the knees and
had a row OF the buttons set on a band
Of the same material as the collar ex-
tending down the left side. These ac-
Gordon pieated skirts are cleveriy
shaped 80 that they cling to the figure
almost as closely as the scant models,
The sleeves OF this gown, like those
OF nearly all the fall models, were long.
A new feature of sleeve treatment Is
the shirred under cur Of net. Tiny
frflls about tie hand and carried up
the outer seam Of the sleeve are
quantity becoming.
Frills r used quite extensively on
some OF the afternoon and evening
frocks, although always arranged In
such manner as absolutely to maintain
narrow lines. A lovely French model,
having a tunic skirt and surplica waist
eject had row upon row OF striped
tafreta rufles that tapered up to the
point Of crossing OF the tunic. midway
between the knee and the waist lins.
Worsted vote, IN a beautiful shade
Of old blue, was used FOR a three-plece
costume designed for early fall wear.
The skirt was In panier style, with d
foundation or nneHy pleated wolfe, put
straight about the bottom and Just be-
low the knees. Down one side OF the
waist and the skirt was a band or deep
certse velvet toned down BY stnaii
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17

straps that crossed it about an inch
apart These were fastened down with
small silk buttons. The jacket was
belted across the back, made cutaway.
and had a sash at the left side which
hung below the jacket so that it coy
cred the certse band.
A gown In which the Louis Seize
modes were NEST artistically brought
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17

| skirt appears often in the fall and win.
ter models, but there is little suggestion
Of the old style killed skirts so uni
Versally o a few years ago. The
pleats are scant and fat and usually ex.
tend only from the knees to the skirt
edge. Various novel adaptations Of the
tunic, with now and then a suggested
panier arrangement, in combination
with these kick pleats, are the distinct
I've features of the new models.
A clever use of pleats was noticed
on a suit OF blue diagonal, designed for
street wear. Three side turning pleats
extended from the collar, in the back,
to the bottom Of the coat. The SINH
lar pleats in the back Of the skirt
were stitched fat to within about six
inches Of the hem, when they were al
lowed to fly, the same idea being car
ried out in the front.
On the am order was a trim black
serge suit which had the edges Of the
narrower pleats, that were laid in slot
fashion down the back Of both coat and
skirt, bound with black braid. This is
a very popular trimming feature Just
now, seen on many Of the best suits.
1t was strtktngly employed on a suit
of grey whipcord. being used to bind
the edge OF the jacket and on the edges
Of a couple of pleats down the back
OF the skirt which were arranged In
such a way as to resemble the style OF
the jacket In the front. Crystal but
tons fastened the jacket at the waist
line.
The tenacity with which tafreta
ciings to fashions fancy is evidenced
by the inlays Of 1t one sees on some
OF the collars Of the less strictly tail
ored suits. A navy blue suit OF the
modish wide vale diagonal was given
an interesting touch by the use of
chameleon tafeeta on the collar. The
half belt across the back that held the
meager gathers in place further sng-
gested an actual belt effect by the pearl
buckle set a little to one side. The
skirt was quite plain except for small
kick pleats laid in panel style.
PANIERs ARE VARIED.
Panier effects are well adapted to
the suits OF velvet that win appear a
little later on, their popularity I'M
abated- Particularly graceful was a
model in dull bronze brown velvet. The
Jacket had a deep collar with wide
reyers, and was fulled into a belt OF
embroidered silk, having threads OF COP
per through it. which met leather belt
straps at the sides. The skirt OF the
jacket was lifted slightly at the edge
and fulled onto the wide band Of
stitched velvet that encircled the coli
lar, cuffs, and bottom Of the coat. IA
similar band was carried down the side
OF the skirt and about the bottom, with
the skirt falling ' e 1t easily in
panier effect.
Another development OF the pander
motif was worked into a broadcloth
suit OF Jaspe green. The paniers over
each hip, very scant and sort, were
shirred under the apron like tunic that
was plain save FOR an inverted back
pieat and two pleats from the knee
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17

designers OF fashions have
launched their modish
tons without giving them a
- family name, 81 to speak.
Like the great artists whose master
pieces are forever nameless, they have
been content to base their appeal on
our individual imaginatons; we have
caught quaint suggestions Of the prtm
Colonial days; we have seemed to
breathe the exotic atmosphere Of the
Orient, and we have been enchanted
with the revived charm of the days Of
Louis XIV.
This season, however, we hear little
talked about but Directoire modes
Suits and gowns and the infinite aces
sories Of dress all bear the impress
Of this influence, modified, Of course,
and made to embrace many attractive
features that have survived thescaprtces
Of fashion.
The most notable characteristic Of
The, newest suits designed along these
lines is the Robespierre collar. This
style of collar appeared In much Of the
summer neckwear, but it has been most
cleverly adapted to fan and winter
suits. Occasionally one sees it quite
unmodif1ed-that is, in the form Of a
high, standing rundown collar that
reaches only around the back to the
ears and is supplemented by revers;
but for the most part the latest col
lars resemble lore a modified Byron
collar. The over-colIar Is often Of a
darker shade OF velvet than the suit,
Or may be of a lighter shade of broad
cloth. Light broadcloths are used a
great deal for the little vest effects that
are well liked in suits Of this design,
some Of the vests being made detach-
able.
Sleeves continue to be Of the set-in
variety, those in the separate coats hay
Ing generally the deep armhole.
BDLTED AND SHIRRED EFFECTS
PROMINENT.
In length the suit coats vary from
% to 33 inches, according to the size
of the garment. Cutaway styles are
very prominent, and there is a tendency
TO the elongation of the back, In many
of the gn1artest models.
The most striking novelty Of the new
suit and coats is the use Of beited and
shirred effects. What is sometimes
called the Prince George back is espe-
cially popular. This has a slight full
ness above and below the waist gath
cred into a half-belt that is some
times curved upward just a little. The
waist line, however, is kept normal in
nearly a1l garments ; indeed, there is an
~sncFeasing tendency to follow more
closely the lines Of the egure than has
been done for sorne time.
II has required the exercise Of amaz-
ing Ingenuity on the part OF the cos
Aun5ers TO introduce a considerably
greater amount or material into their
suits and gowns, and still maintain the
slender silhouette to which the woman
pf fashion 10 devoted. The pleated
- -
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17

out, was OF soft, white satin, brocn66
with sprigs' OF tiny, o~ld-fashtoned Cow
ers. The skirt was hoped mp In little
paniers In the front, that reached to
the knee. while the hack hung full
from the rather long waisiDe. Tbe
prettily draped up paniers disclosed an
underskirt of soft white sik with rows
Of fye-inch shadow 1aca one above an
other from the hem to the paniecR.
Two velvet ribbon bows oe Freneh blue
were placed ON either side OF the Hoped
up satin oveEsAirt, where "a INST me
fi1my undersktxt of iacal
The bodice, arranged In surpRsca
fashion, was Of the shadow laca over
flesh color chiffon. In the back tbs
white satin OF the foundation came IN
over this lace to the top Of the right
shoulder. Here a quaint wired bow Of
the blue velvet ribbon held the lacs and
brocade together, drawing the Lace up
from the arm. which was exposed the
other arm being half yelled with the
lace
The Fargo forum and daily republican. [volume] (Fargo, N.D.) 1894-1957, 1912-09-17

Or several seasons past the
designers OF fashions have
launched their modish crea-
tons without giving them a
family name, so to speak.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
FUND FOR CONVENTIONS.
Trade Organizations of Capital Will
Raise $4,000.

A convention fund Of $4,000 to be used
In bringing to Washington national and
international conventions will be raised
by a joint committee Of the Board Of
Trade, Chamber Of Commerce and Retail
Merchants Association. 1t was decided
at meeting of the special Joint COM
mittee of the three organizations which
met Tuesday afternoon in the CONNER
cial Club. according to announcement
made today. The joint committee to
raise the fund will consist OF thirty-six
members. twelve from each organization.
and may be increased in number.
The disbursement of the fund is to be
under the direction of special joint COM
mittee Of the three organizations. consist
ing Of three members Of each body, nine
In all. This plan received the approval
Of the board of directors of the Chamber
of Commerce last night when 1t was
called to its attention by John Dolph,
chairman of the conventions committee
of the chamber.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
government publishes. The document Of

government publishes. The document or
Ace supplies government publications free
only to certain libraries. Mr.. Domain, IN
the report, says. in part:
I'VE have taken every means that Of
fers itself to inform the public on this
important point: That 1t sells only to
the public, that it does rot give away
public documents. and If this informa-
ton were to become public property
much disappointment would be saved to
applicants and much correspondence
would be avoided AS 1t is, the impress
sion is still quite general that all you
have to do to obtain books published by
the government Is to address some official
at Washington. the request frequently
being quite urgent and ship by return
mali a frequent addition to the request.
mo avenue through which the value
Of government publications could proper
ly be brought to the attention of the
appreciative public has been neglected
Believing firmly that hardly anything
leaves the government printing office
that IL issued promptly while the sub
ject is timely, would not find plenty OF
BUYERS, it seems to the writer only neces-
sary that the method of obtaining public
documents be made a matter OF public
knowledge. That has been the aim OF
the writer. That has been the reason
why an appropriation for advertising pur-
poses has been asked for once or twice
NV predecessor, / understood, was grant,
ed a certain amount one year, and While
his method of placing the announce
ments was not exactly the plan that an
experienced newspaper man would have
pursued, the expenditure proved in the
main wise investment. and 1t is to be
regretted that no succeeding following
up" which Is simply imperative in ad-
vertising, was authorized by Congress.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
CRAFTSMEN DISCUSS DETAILS.
Standing Committees Of the Navy
Yard Association Appointed.

The members Of the Navy Yard Asso-
citation Of Craftsmen met last night to
close the business pertaining to their
organization and for a discussion Of the
matters which will claim their attention
as an organized body.
The following standing committees were
appointed by the chair:
Memberships. c. Cross. w. e. Rose
and F. p. Peel.
Meetings.. A. Crockett, Charles
Walsh. W. X. Davidson. A. 8. Halsey and
H. z. Ltchfield.
Special committee to draft petition
w. f. Rose. HI. l.. Boesch. A. v. Curtis.
A. 8. Halsey. G. w. Nusbaum and
Charles Walsh
When the meeting adjourned an In
formal dinner was served.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
DELEGATES ARE SELECTED.
Arbitration Society Names Repre-
sentatives to Convention Here.

The local branch Of the National Ar
bitration Society last night elected the
following delegates to the convention OF
the American Society for Judicial IT
Element of International Dispu in this
city December 20 and 81: Mrs. Belva A.
Lockwood, Victor Duras. DR.. ara Nc.
Naughton. Miss Lucy S. Patrick, Prof
Robert Stien, Mrs. Clara Bewick Colby
James B. Kent Mrs. ]. o. Estabrook
Mrs Julia w. Leavitt, Mrs. Emily Hz--
ris Mcintosh, Miss Ruth Griswold Pealer
Mrs. Josephine Arnold Rich and Mrs
Mary D. Collier.
Resolutions on the death of A. X. Smi-
ley. "a lifelong worker for universal
peace" were adopted.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
silent contempt by the publishers whose

silent contempt by the publishers whose
space would best have served our pur-
pose. 1t would be the best Of economy
IL a modest appropriation for advertis-
ing were allowed by Congress.
MANY thousands Of dollars worth Of
books are on our shelves, gathering dust
and benef1ting no one, that would be
turned into cash money if the public
could be made aware Of their existence
and the modest price at which We sell.
Surely this is better than finally to con-
denim them and sell them to the paper
mill at less than a cent a pound. One
single years experiment of advertising
is all that we might find 1t necessary to
urge. The result would secure future
appropriations without any difficulty
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05

Wonder what upset your stom-
ach-which portion of the food did
the damage-do you? Well, don't
bother. If your stomach is in a
revolt; if sour. gassy and upset,
and what you just ate has ferment-
ed into stubborn Jumps; your head
dizzy and aches; belch gases and
acids and eructate undigested food;
breath foul. tongue coated-Just
take a little Diapepsin and in five
minutes you will wonder what be-
came of the indigestion and dis
tress.
Millions of men and women to-
day know that it is needless to
have a bad stomach. A little Dia-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
STOMACH SICK, SOUR, UPSET AND
FULL OF GAS? PAPE'S D|APEPS|N.
In Five Minutes! Time 1t! All Indigestion, Heart
burn and Dyspepsia Gone and Your
Stomach Feels Fine.

pepsin occasionally keeps the
stomach regulated and they eat
their favorite foods without fear.
If your stomach doesn't take
care of your liberal limit without
rebellion; if your food is damage
instead of a help. remember the
quickest, surest, most harmless re-
lief is Pape's Diapepsin, which
costs only t.ty cents for a large
case at drug ctores. It's truly
wonderful-it digests food and
sets things straight, SO gently and
easily that it is astonishing. Please
don't go on and on with weak.
disordered stomach; it's SO unnec-
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05

eral communications from the Engineer
Commissioner Of the District to that eff
feet.
The chairman Of tho committee on
schools reported that cooking tnstruc-
ton Will betadded to the Lovejoy School
course A committee was appointed to
meet with other associations of colored
persons with the view Of forming q fed
GRAFTON.
Rev. G. w. Brent. president of the as
ISOLATION, presided.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
MARE ISLAND BIDS LOWEST.
Navy Yard May Construct Both Of
New Fuel Ships.

Both the fuel ships authorized by Con-
gress at it's last session may be buile
at the Mare Island. Cal. navy yard.
The original plan was to have one OF
these vessels constructed at the navy
yard, New York, and the other at the
Mare Island yard. The bid OF the Mare
Island yard. however, was so much low
er than the bid submitted by the New
York yard that the department may
conclude to have both vessels built on
the Pacific coast
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
IMPROVEMENTS UNDER WAY.
Pavements and Drainage Of Ivy City
Neighborhood Repaired.

J. A. Richardson. chairman Of the COM
mittee on improvements. reported last
night at the meeting Of the Ivy City Citi-
zens' Association that many repairs to
pavements and drainases IN the neigh
1orhood were under way. He read sew
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05

Rev. John ]. Lanier of Warrenton,
N. c., has been extended a call by the
vestry of st. Georges Episcopal Church,
Fredericksburg. Va. to the rectorship to
fill the vacancy caused by the resigna-
ton of Rev. DIR. r. j. McBryde.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05

county for the adoption OF rural nursing.
She said II was one of the most health
full and splendid methods OF doing good,
and she looked for the day when a nurse
for each county would be taken as much
for granted as a county clerk.
Play Leader for Schools.
Charles F. Weller OF Pittsburgh and
New York. associate secretary OF the
Playground and Recreation Association OF
America, talked on Rural Recreation.
He said the national and state govern
ments We're eager to protect the apple
from cedar rust, but he saw very little
sign of spending a dollar that better chill
dren may be grown I'm the rural sections.
He advocated the employment OF a play
leader for schools with the same stand
ing the teachers.
Others who contributed TO the discus
sionS were Miss Margaret +. Byington
of the Russell Sage foundation, New
York, who discussed THE County Or
ganization in Charity Work.: William II.
Davenport, secretary of the Maryland
board of state aid and charities, who
talked on state and County Conditions:
Miss Goodwille. who contributed a paper
on The Volunteer and the Trained
Worker: Rev. DIR. James Z. Moffatt.
pastor of the First Presbyterian Church,
who found many trained workers cold
hearted and Louis Levi, who Is In charge
Of the Hebrew charity work In Baltimore.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
"Trade Ads" Ignored.

1.-TWO years ago this office was au-
thorized to indulge in what the publisher
knows and thoroughly despises as trade
ads and knowing what did Of this feel
ing. 1t was no surprise whatever to note
that the proposition was treated with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
BUSINESS ON BOOM
Uncle Sans Publishing House
Shows Revenue Increase.
PUBLIC IS MISINFORMED
Various Reports and. Papers Are Not
Intended for General Free
Distribution.
PUBLIC is MISINF0RMED

Uncle Sans" little known business of
publishing and bookselling is growing at
a rapid rate. according to the eighteenth
annual report of the superintendent of
documents Of the government printing
Office. This report. by August Donath,
the superintendent. shows that while the
cash sales Of government reports and
other documents for the fiscal year end
ed June 80. 1872 totaled $107, SSSS2 for
the fiscal year ended June 80. 1909, they
totaled but $6S.S1152. making an increase
in the three years of $39.0772S. which, as
the report points out. would be a credit
able showing for any business house en-
gagged in a similar line of trade.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
THOUSANDS Of INFANTS
SACRIFICED BY NEGLECT
Miss Lathrop Addresses Mary
land Conference of Chari-
ties and Correction.

CUMBERLAND. Md. December 5.-The
feature OF the session of the eighth
Maryland conference Of charles and
correction yesterday afternoon was the
address Of Miss Julia Lathrop. head of
the children's bureau. Department OF
Commerce and Labor. Washington. d. c.,
on the work Of the bureau. Miss Lathrop
dwelt on the necessity Of law requiring
proper registration Of births, saying:
Maryland is supposed to have very
good birth registration law. but to be
very careless about it." She praised
Washington and New York as cities that
carefully collected vital statistics. but
said Baltimore. Chicago, New Orleans
and San Francisco were regarded as es-
pecially Indifferent. Miss Lathrop also
spoke Of infant mortality. Statistics. as
nearly as can be computed. she said.
show the deaths yearly Of 100000 babies
that have not reached year in age.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
Sacrificed by Neglect.

but worse STILL she said. I'VE are told
that at least half Of these babies die
needlessly and only because we. as indi-
viduals or as communities neglect meth
DDS OF cure which are well known"
Miss Lathrop commended Allegany
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-05
Free Matter Curtailed.

The report in part is intended to dis
abuse the public mind of the impression
th-t the ONCE Of the superintendent Of
public documents Is for the purpose Of
distributing free to applicants the va
rious reports and other papers which the