Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-29

Variety seems to be the keynote in
neckwear these days. From the different
style periods the designers have culled
an idea here and there with pleasing i'm
Partially.
The plated frill, the quaint f1chu, the
Dutch collar. the stately Robespierre col
lar and jabot and the Cossack overblouse
are to be found at the neckwear counter.
with dozens of other WITNESSES. One fea-
ture is noticeable in all the neckwear.
and that is the daintiness and fineness of
its character. Cheap laces and coarse
fabrics put together by machine sewing
are no longer tolerated in dress that
makes any pretense toward distinction
and refinement. Even though the gown
itself may be built of inexpensive stuff
and the hat a ready-towear naodel Sc
cured on the friendly "five-dollAr table
or "ten-dollar table," as the case may be,
the neckwear Is apt to be of sheer hand
kerchief linen or softest batiste, with
bit of real Irish or cluny lace to lend 1t
distinction.
The neckwear novelty of the season Is
undoubtedly the Robespierre collar
sometimes called the Richelieu. 'This col
lar is very high and stately at the back,
reaching quite to the, base Of the BRAIN
but just in front of the ears 1t stops short
and leaves the front of the throat ex-
posed-and the neck also, for with the
Robespierre collar the front of the bodice
is cut away in a v. and tapering 1abot
or frill falls away from the edges of the
v. The collar can be made OF black
satin, and the jabot at the front Is OF
soft cream. shadow lace. The Jaoot
fastens down the front with small black
satin buttons. Another collar Is made
on Robespierre lines, but Is not quite SO
high as the original Robespierre design
This collar Is also of black satin, and
there Is v at the front of fine net,
hand embroidered in flower design. The
v Is bordered by frill of shadow lace
This collar is not becoming to every
one, and the woman with thin throat
and collar bones should avoid 1t as she
would the plague. The fat woman Win
a short neck will need no warning against
the Richelieu collar. She would not Tor
moment consider Its discomfort in warm
weather, when so many fascinating low
collars are ready for her selection.
Though high, daintily fitting stock col
the ule with all formal costumes of the
spring, the majority of the summer
frocks and blouses have cool. comforta-
BILE turnover collars. To be really smart
such a collar must be accompanied by
cuffs of matching material, and these
tlnction to simple little summer frocks
OF inexpensive material. Lingerie co.,
lars are more fashionable now than those
Of lace, and the Irish crochet collars.
formerly SO expensive. may now De
picked up for considerably less than their
original cost on the bargain tables. Cluny
collars are q bit more fashionable, but
the most favored are the sheer batlste
and handkerchief linen collars, with
trimmings Of Irish. cluny or filet lace.
Huge lace collars, falling almost to the
handsome gowns of the visiting or after
noon type. These collars. however. are
not in good taste with cotton tub frocks
The heavier laces like macrame, filet.
Venise and the new rattne lace, are USED
for these large collars, some OF which are
veritable capes in proportion.
The fichu is one of the prettiest of the
summer models. which range from the
simplest affairs of lawn and lace to
elaborate draperies of chiffon. edged with
crystal fringe and silk roses for evening
the smart shops In Washington, which
makes q speciality OF fine lingerie and
neckwear The model was Of shadow
lace In q soft cream shade. The back
was pointed In shape and the front
had shaped revers. which crossed and
fastened at the girdle with two rosettes.
The same model was shown in fine linen.
embroidered by hand and trimmed around
the outer edges with frill of valenci-
ennes lace
Frills are everywhere, and one sees
them In all widths. from narrow sleeve
frilis an inch wide to deep Pierrot ruffles
that fall over the shoulders. The short
necked woman should avoid frills around
her neck. but II she must have them. a