Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1912-10-15
In Touch With
Fashion

into the philosophy of huma
caprice II is easy enough to reaso
this out; people who dress well ar
rather afraid Of exploiting an e1
IRENE because they feel that thos
who dress for tie moment viii TAX
this fashion as their own and com
monte it; the latter are rot strucl
with It, and the former, awaiting thei
time, go back to it, writes Anne Rit
tenhouse In the Philadelphia Record
All this has come about with tn,
pannier. When Nine Cheruit wore
the first one in Paris it started. a:
you know, all sorts of wild rumors
and comments In few days all the
dressmakers in Paris exhibited pan
niers as the newest fashion, and In a
Few weeks the American shops had
them. The public did not take to
them and they fell from favor They
we're merely an advertising scheme,
after all, first for an individual. then
for a class.
Whether or not the public or the
dressmakers nodded the first pannier
into the zouave skirt of today is hard
to tell, but the modification is most
acceptable. II is a cross between
Turkish trousers and a -four sack
gathered at the hem. and yets 1t is
most attractive and becoming to wo-
men who have big hips, as we'll as
those who have slender ones. II is
probably the skirt of the day as far
as exclusiveness goes, and yet ii is
not well known enough to prevent its
being offered on the 18th of August
as an autumn fashion
1t is quite simple to explain. The
material is soft and is slightly gath
cred into high waistband, falls over
a flattened hip line to a halfway point
between the knee end ankle, and is
gathered there into narrow lower
skirt, which is plain or aSorned The
gathering is done in such way that
the iulness Of the g'.irt bags over it
for about thyee i..cAes, giving the
TurEich trouser effect.
Newest ideas in Skirts.
Last winter few gowns were
worn over here which had this eff
feet at the foot line For months pre-
ceding January The smart dressma-
kcrs had been advocating this quaint
method of arranging skirt at the
hem. The method was to cut the skirt
ICsen SIX ncnes longer than theylin-
ing, then turn it under and gather it
to the skirt. This produced that full
scalloped effect which is now very
smart to have at the knees.
1t is the same method and is the
same idea. 1t is merely moved up to
the body for six or seven inches. The
effect is much better, as one retains
the slim, tight lower skirt with its
trimness about the ankles. This zou-
ave effect is just as smart on skirts
that are long as well as those that are
short. 1t is rather effective on a
stright two-gored Empire underskrt,
which is cut to a pointed train.
Using Flowered silks.
1t has much the effect Of a tunic In
that 1t conceals the tightness of the
line drawn by the underskirt against
the figure in the back, and also hides
the not always graceful movement of
the knees in a tight skirt 1t takes
consummate art to make slim mar
row skirt that does not catch and
draw around the body In an ugly man
ner; and so the fashion for fulness
from waist to knees comes as a happy
afterthought.
Among the midsummer fashions is
the use of soft-howered silks instead
of chiffons. or rather they are used as
rivals, not as substitutes. The flow
cred transparent stun is always love
ly, and In its present form it is allur.
ing. especially for hot afternoons and
evenings. The use of silks is newer
1t came about through the revival OF
many of the Louis XVI. fashions
That was great epoch for silk COW
cred with punches of flowers and la
ter with stripes.
Today one does not wish to wear
the stiff brocades Of those DAYS for
the manufacturers have gone far In
the art of weaving and can give MS
marvellous stuffs of silk ana metal in
terwoven in gossamer weight. We can
wear the dashing brilliancy of the
Italian fabrics and not put an ounce
of weight on our muscles.
Design Is Effective.
This is the kind of silk We are
wearing this summer. II is fashioned
into the new kind of pannier and is |
immensely effective. II is not draped |
as far down on the skirt as the thin
chiffons are; it is carried down to the t,
knees or a little above and is lifted |
slightly in the front II drops into a
baglike effect there and falls close 10 |
the slim silk or satin underskirt be- |
meath
It is better to use satin for the low.
er skirt than any other fabric, not
only because II is the first favorite OF
the day but because II presents an
artistic contrast to most other fab.
rlCa has fha oA.o-A.