The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1912-08-16
Distinctive Styles in Fall Blouses
SATIN IS THE BLOUSE MATER1AI-FEW TUB MODELS EXCEPT
FOR OUTING UsE-COLLARS AND SLEEVES MOST
PICTURESQUE.

In a chat. two weeks ago, about new
fall tailored wear, II was shown that
fashion now has taken the directoire
dandy as a model and patterned wo-
mans autumn railment on the gay and
rakish attire of these beauH of the
past. If the new coats are dandifled-
according to directoire Standards
the new blouses are even more so. and
milady of the moment is a veritable
Beau Brummel, with her trinity but
toned satin shirt. cuffed at the wrist
and frilled at the front with just the
sort of cuffs and frills that the dandy
of the directoire day affected.
Satin is the fabric for the fall blouse
and by the way, blouse" is incor-
rect; to be really up to the minute
now. n must say shirt" no matter
what ones bodice is built Of. or how
many frills and laces adorn it. The
new shirt. then, is Of satin; or of sat
liz yelled with net or chiffon-chiffon
being the %favorite. And this chiffon
overshirt-why should one not say
overshirt as we'll as undershirt?-is
always laid in tucks or pleats; gathers
The pleats are not narrow pin affairs
either. but are one or two or even
three inches broad, three of these
broad pleats set close together often
covering the space between armhole
and front-opening. The pleats are
stitched all the way down and are no
intended to add fullness across the
bust; this is effected by a clever slant.
ing cut which seems to be the secre,
Of the French blouse maker.
All the new shirts have long sleeves
The woman who has been hoping
against hope that this might not be
<,,> <A,< <La l@~~-~eoxeI h1o,co<
brought Eel In the summer we're but
a tentative style feature introduced fol
the sake of variety, must bow witt
whatever grace she mas to the long
sleeve edtct for the elbow sleeve Is no.
to be permitted in the rank Of exclu'
sive and aristooratic blouses, excepl
for most informal around-the-houst
| wear or for autumn outing and ath'
letic use. An elbow sleeve. moreover
would quite spoil the dandified direc'
toire shirt" which owes much of 1t.
character to its oVerhanging shoulder
and long wrinkled sleeve. Set into thu
and top of arm.
Long Shoulder Lines.
These long shoulder lines require {
special cut. else ii would be impossi
bit to raise the arms in such a blouse
The top of the blouse and upper slew,
are cut in kimono fashion. and a dia'
mond-shaped gusset is inserted under
meath. where arm joins shoulder. Their
the straight long sleeve is attached t.
the kirnono upper sleeve, and its low
or edge Is slashed and fashioned with
hooks and eyes. or tiny buttons ant
buttnnholes. so hat the fit around the
wrist will he trim and close. Some
times the lower edge is. slashed away
to show a wedge-shaped buttoned cuff
Of lace or tucked net Again. the Ions
wrinkled sleeve is finished with a turn
I'd back satin cuff, which also wrinkle.
with the soft sleeve over the wrist. Ir
act. the mousequetaire sleeve. ono
o:ought into fashion by Madame Sar'
IN Bernhardt 10 conceal too slender
ines Of arm. is fast reappearing Al
he forefront Of the mode.
White satin waists are exquisitely
'ainty. bu it is to be feared that thu
'aintiness Of such a waist will b.
AIRY evanescent, and a soiled whit,
,tin waist is even worse than a soilet
'nserie model. So only the woman
Tho can afford the somewhat high cos
constant dry cleanings may induls,
, white satin fall shirts-unless sh,
ares to do them up" herself. Their