New-York tribune., 1912-02-18

Paris FEBRUARY Z.
One is inclined to believe the fashions
are created by the caprices OF influential
women or by the men who launch them.
AS a matter of fact they are ruled by
neither In spite of their seeming incon-
sistencies the fashions that follow one an
other have a common source, and loglcal
seqsence in their continuance. The pleas
ATTEST feature of the present fashions Is
the diversity in both gowns and hats III
Is possible for every woman of ones ac-
ouaintance. for example. TO wear diner
ent hat. and at the same time all are In
the fashion. And short skirts ana lohs
ones. full sK+tts and scant ones-with equal
partially al are allowed.
Taffetas VAL have an immense vogue
next season. one unprecedented in ther
history. though the favor already granted
to them has been great. Not plaln ta1-
fetas. however. except I'm the case of black
and white; plain taffetas seem 10 have
vanished from the face of the earth. The
new tafetas are enchantingly flower
sprinkled; or striped on dark ana nght
grounds: and dots-dots of all sizes-appear
in every conceivable combination. Big
ones hold themselves aloof from eacp
other AT wide distances; as the spots de-
crease in size. so do the spaces separating
them. till. finally, the tiniest ones croWG
closely together in sociable clusters or
thickly dot the entire. surface. These last
are extremely satisfactory when the dots
are white on surface of dark blue deep
rose color. and pretty shades of green and
mauve. When one departs from placK anu
white It will prove difficult 10 ind SOBER
color; all the world Of designers seem 10
have gone color mad this season. Still. II
one wearies not in the search there are
quiet gray shades TO be had. and, best news
Of all, the charming mingling OF black anu
gray and gray and white are at mana this
season in the tiny checks and nne stilpeS
that have been so long absent from the
silk counters. The same designs are Oh
fered In dark blue and white and II a
pale green with white. a combination that
breathes the very spirit OF springtime.
The excessively hot weather In Paris '>'t
summer proved that thin woolien materials
soft silks and cotton voiles were more com
Portable street costumes than the ing Tie
and embroidered linens and cottons usually
set aside for summer wear A busy woman
whose likings and occupations keep her IN
town the greater part OF the summer IN
tends to provide herself with couple OF
unlined silk gowns; ordering two bIouseS
10 one skirt with well fitted, separate IN
ings Of washable silk or OF cotton.
One Of these little gowns will be Of dark
blue. pin striped at far apart distances
with dull SAKE blue the Other OF piacK
taffeta striped in similaf manner WIN
white. The sleeves OF the biouses' "iae
open, will end little below the elbows ana
the necks will be cut in tiny round ~
with the slightest amount = commentator
but the most effective OF It's sort-perhaps
bias bands OF black satin liGhtened WIN
few tiny specks Of gold or silver IN the shape
Of little fiat buttons set on the edge OF the
black bands and line Of them weigh"ns
the ends OF a little bow posed at the Top
Of the blouse With any amount oI
changes in the way of belts and sashes'
washable chokers and undersleeves' amer
ent hats and parasols, shoes and gloves, 'hs
wearer will be well equipped for the loHs
summer months and always able 10 presen'
fresh and chic appearance TO all the
world. whether she is taking walk WIN
her dogs In the Bois. doing her mornihs
shopping or attending an afternoon CON
ference
Hints OF panier effects were given so io',s !,
ago that II will not come as a surprise y
We see them in numbers on the first sprus
gowns. Let II be understood these are iio'
the paniers Of old. protruding stif1y ron
the hips on either side, but soft oroopine
effects, gained by long breadths. hgntis
Gathered at round waist line. then to'oea
back on themselves into knee deep draper
les and fastened again at the back OF tne
hips. cleverly contrlved. they seem no'
tc. disturb IN the least the much loved sieh'
der Silhouette
All the soft thin materials presented loi
spring and summer wear indicate 10 eve,
the dullest mind. that a greater amount y
fuiness will surely prevail In skirts. -
eeed, the new skirts, already iaupe"ee
show this fulness, which is. however, 80
hned 10 afternoon and evening go"nins
skirts Of tailored costumes are stu ma o.
straight and without nou at the hem in'
envelope" skirt is still favorite form 10,
a tailored skirt. The tapping nap app.a..
back and front alike. and few ou''o,.. :.
Aal9 Il In placa. overskirts openafs -