davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-11-10

left bare according to taste, from which
is hung a large brass ring, about ten
inches in circumference.
And so the list of novelties runs, en-
bracing almost every article of mans at
tire, but of them all, perhaps the
strangest are those in headgear Hats
have always been self-evident necessity,
and for many years the styles so far as
men were concerned have been so limited
that it was easily possible for a man buy
ing an expensive hat to wear it, with
proper care. for several seasons. Such is
no longer the case The styles in men s
headgear today are almost as tickle as
those in feminine millinery. Today the
demand is all for the unique and unusual.
Where four years ago a man wanted a
hat like his fellow-man was wearing, he
now demands something absolutely diff
ferent. Hence there are hats of all
shapes, shades, colors and materials. 1t
is the hat which attracts attention.
There is an abundance of material from
which to choose, but one haberdasher
has probably outstripped all his rivals
Evening star., 1912-11-10

about S1.75 pound whereas the genuine
altar of roses is vastly more expensive.
France has at the present time 5000
convicts in her South American penal
colony Twice year the convict ship
goes from the mother country with its
cargo of prisoners. safely secured in
steel cages. The death rate among them
is said to be terrific. The French gov
ernment formerly sent many prisoners
to New Caledonia, but most of them now
go to French Guiana. About 1900 a year
are sent, but as many have died. the total
is not swelled as much as might be
thought.
Many of these prisoners manage to
escape through the forests to British
and Dutch Guiana. despite the guards
constantly on lookout for them. In Par
amarillo, Dutch Guiana, there are agents
of a society formed in France OF friends
of the convicts who provide them with
money and further their efforts to escape.
AS long as the convicts and the rose
wood of French Guiana hold out-and
there seems to be no immediate prospect
that either will be exhausted soon
Balkan wars need hold no terrors for
the users of perfumes. There Is no
danger that failure to harvest the
DdIndSCend rose crop III the Sdlicy OI
Roses will produce a dearth of sweet
scented perfume for milady's boudoir and
person. The convicts of French Guiana
are strong armed men and they have
masters to goad them on. If need be.
to fell more rosewood trees in the tropical
jungles of South America To men, even
convicts. transferred from the delightful
climate of France to the tropical heat of
French Guiana, the change is hard TO
bear. 1t is but natural that they die
off rapidly.
Altar of roses is only one of several
rose products used in the manufacture
of perfumes said a member of the
trade the other day. He made no men,
ton, however, of oil of rosewood, al
though it is well known by many that
this substitute is employed extensively.
Altar of roses, also, is often adulter-
Evening star., 1912-11-10

coordin' TO tn law This idtor feels bad
because there's difference between this
counthry an England. TIL laws an tn
languages ar-re tn same in tn two
countries. but they're pronounced
diff rent. In England man is prcsoom-
cd to be innocent till he's proved guilty,
an they take it f'r granted he's guilty.
In this counthry man is presoomed to
be guilty ontil he's proved guilty, an
afther that he's PERSONNEL to be inno-
cent.
I'm tn oldher civilization tn judge
reads tn news iv tn crime in tn morn
in pa-aper an stops in at hat shop on
his way to coort an buys a black cap
to wear at tn approachin' festivities.
Whin he gets up on tn bench he calls
tn shuriff to his side an says he:
Cap GO out and grab jury iv cross
lookin' married men TO thry tn con-
dimned' TIL shuriff drags twelve indig-
uant grocers firm their stores an they
ronc into coort protestin' because they
Evening star., 1912-11-10

strange oriental patterns. giving an ef-
feet of warm richness. Another novelty
just introduced is the addition of velvet
trimming, design which relieves monot-
ony by giving a needed touch of bright
color. A vest of dark, quiet-lOOking ma
terial, for instance. Is edged with velvet
of some bright shade, and the entire gar
ment is what the haberdashers call
be easily removed and velvet Of another
color substituted, according to the whm
of the wearer
A fad is in full swing for initials and
monograms. according to the dealers, al
though this novelty for men requires the
touch Of the gentler sex before it is ap-
plicable Dealers supply the initials,
made usually of papier mache, but one
may buy any style of lettering. Roman.
Gothic or what not. or any combination
of letters in the form Of q monogram.
The papier mache letters must be placed
on the article Of apparel for which they
are intended, and then embroidered over.
The novelty cuts the work OF embroidery
more than in half. The initials come in
all sizes. There are small ones for under
clothes, larger ones to be placed on one s
shirt sleeves. still larger ones to be
placed on the pocket of ones shirt, and
larger still. or very. very tiny, according
to the taste Of the purchaser. for one 8
hosiery. This particular novelty has a
big practical value, for the initials serve
as a mark of Identification, and hence
reduce the chance Of loss in laundries to
a minimum.
Cigarette cigar and card cases occupy
a prominent place among the novelties
for men. In many instances these articles
are kept as part of the regular stock Of
the haberdasher. The demand for them
warrants it. So luxurious is the taste of
many men, however, that practically
every jeweler of any prominence in the
city also maintains a large display of
them The cigar case may be of fine
leather trimmed with silver or gold. this
being the most common type. New styles
have recently been introduced In cigar
cases in the form Of two cases, one for
use in winter and the other in summer.
The winter case Is woven of some
heavy material in a far eastern pattern
and gives the appearance of q miniature
Turkish rug. 1t is heavy, rich and warm
looking. In direct contrast, the summer
case is made Of the finest quality Of
panama and is almost as light as the
proverbial feather.
For cigarette cases. those Of heavy
silver are the most popular. A few gold
that only the very wealthy can afford
them Cases are designed for those who
want neither gold nor silver. but some
thing different" One case designed for
this class Is made of thin strips of bam-
boo. There are others made of sweet
grass and still others made of sandal
wood, the sides of the case being held
together with hinges of gold. These
latter are designed not only to nullify
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Girls Gather Madys Perfumes French Guiana and Bulgaria.

very considerably to this doubt. 1t was
thought doubtful if any labor could be se-
cured In this country which would do the
picking cheap enough. On this point II
was thought possible that some ingenious
sort of machine might be invented which
would take the place to a large extent of
the human element in picking. A ma
chine is now used on the governments
tea farm near Summerville, S. c.. which
gathers the tea SO that no human hand
need ever touch it. Before this was in
vented it was said that the colored chill
dren could pick the tea so fast that you
could scarcely see their arms move. The
trained children could gather from six
to ten times as much as the amiteurs.
How long on a stretch they kept 1t up
was not stated.
The fact that convicts in South America
gather rosewood trees. whence comes
much of the perfume the world uses, will
not diminish its eternal use. Ever since
body of Hector with rose oil, and even
long before that and previous to the an
nual rose festival Of the Greeks and Ro-
mans, on which occasion they anointed
the tombs Of their ancestors with rose
oil. perfume Of many degrees of fra
GRANGE has been used.
Paris has just announced the latest fad
in this direction. A French actress is the
inventor of the new method. which con-
sists of injecting the perfume under the
skin. A slight prick in the arm. and for
the following thirty-six hours the lady
watts with her an atmosphere of damask
rose. of gentle violet, of piercing tube
rose, of delicious heliotrope or of old law
ender. The injection. It is said, leaves
absolutely no mark. After it's adminstra-
ton the person retains the individual
odor for day and half in spite of an
ocean dip or vigorous exercise. Many per-
sons in the past, especially among the
French, have tried to surround them
selves with peculiar individual fragrance.
but the means have been more or less
crude. The latest fad may solve the prob
lem for them.
Another ingenious method which milady
of fashion has found of carrying about
with her unseen springs of perfume. is
by means of hairpin, which, when press
ed lightly, emits fine shower of perfume.
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Nh. D00EY

cuss TIL matther over a meal iv bread
an water while tn chops burn on tn
kitchen stove an their clerks ar-re dis
thributin' groceries free to tn neighbor-
hood But if they have been convinced
be tn overwhelmin' mass iv ividince an
the admirable argumints again We, they
do not need to lave tn box, but can
signify their verdict be givin' three
hearty British cheers, in which the coort
will jine' An that's all there is to it.
*
But it's betther in this home iv tn
free. mind We. Aftherf tn polls have
made up their mind that none iv thin
did it, they may or may not grab tn
criminal. 1t depinds on th' weather. But
supposin' it's a pleasant summers day
an tn fugitive is in tn saloon mex dure
shown tn revolver an thryin' to thrade
in "a silver candlestick f'r drhink, an
TIL polise foorce ar-re bendin' evry effort
to apprehend him, and ar-re combin' tn
whole country f'r him, an he doesn't
know where to turn, but goes into tn
station an ,registhers an gets his key an
ordhers his breakfast in tn cell an gives
pair iv sugar tongs. dimon necklace,
a dozen knives an forks. his autymatic
an other vallyables to tn sergeant to
lock up in TIL safe. an laves wurrud not
to be called, that's on'y TIL beginnin' iv
th' exercises.
"Th' first year or two he passes away
Evening star., 1912-11-10

will be bankrupted be sarvin' their coun-
thry. But they ar-re soon restored to
good humor by th' jovyal Remarks iv
tn coort. who makes thin langh heartily
at wanst be askin' thin if they ar-re op-
posed to capital punishmint
"Th' pris'ner is thin hauled in in
chains, an TIL judge. afther exprissin'
his dislike iv his face with look iv
scorn, says: Murderer. ye ar-re entitled
to a fair thriie. Ar-re We guilty or. not
guilty? Not guilty, We say? I thought
ye wud. That's what, thu good-f r-naw-
thin likes iv We always say. Well, let S
have this disagreeable business over
within hurry. I'll allow tn. prosecu-
tion three hours to, show We up an TIL
defense can have tn rest1iv tn mornin'
Wake me up whin tn ividince is all in
About noon his honor is woke, be a
note firm tn jury askin how long they
ar-re goin' to BE kept firm their dinner
He hauls TIL black cap out iv tn band
box and. putin it on over his; wig,
says: 'Pris'ner at tn bar. it is now me
awful jooty to lave ye'er fate to a Brit
ish jury. I will not attimpt to inf1oonce
thin in amy way. I'll not take tn time to
brush away tn foolish ividince put in in
yeer definse Ye'er lawyers have done
as well as they cud with nawthin' to go
on. If amy iv th' jury believe We sinno-
cent let thin retire to their room an. dis
Evening star., 1912-11-10

Touching her hair gently, apparently to
arrange a stray lock. the knowing one Is
freshening the sweet odor which was be-
ginning to fade.
The various effects Of different kinds
of perfume ts well known. although II
could scarcely be said that strict scien-
tific study ever has been made of the
subject. The people OF the orient know
much more of perfumes and their ply
siologfcal effect upon the senses than
do the occidentala Perfumes can elevate
the soul. hence their use In temples; they
can divert the mind, wherefore magicians
and sorcerers use them to distract the
attention: they aid in gaining apprecia-
ton or the esthetic. for which reason
some art dealers have surrounded their
beautiful paintings with an atmosphere
OF sweet smell. Woman finds 1t a power
full adjunct In winning and holding the
attention Of her admirers.
In surgery the influence of perfume as
an aid in administering anesthetics is
being recognized. and has been success
fully used in several cases. It's use in
this field seems bound to spread. for the
chief dread Of ether has been the sicken-
ing odor. BY mixing it with an elixir Of
orange peel, a pleasant odor, II is said.
is given.
Perfumes may have their baneful ef-
lcClS, dlSO. MS mas Deen pointed OUl
very recently by DR.. Hudson Maxim, who
has made some investigations as to the
physiological effect OF different odors. He
declares that perfumes on the whole are
highly obnoxious to him. The liking for
perfumes he has found Is by no means
universal. Many persons dislike perfumes
exceedingly and are rendered i'll by them
he discovered. He expressed the opinion
that many women afflicted with neuras-
thenia and hysteria owe their condition
largely to self-poisoning with perfumes
He calls attention also to the fact that
an odor may be very pleasant and at the
same time be poisonous, as with benzol,
used in many paint and varnish re-
movers. A good Whit Of tuberose, he
says. will give him headache The
smell Of gasoline and Of some other sub
stances intoxicates some people. he says
Meanwhile. milady gay continues to in
toxfcate those about her with altar OF
roses, whether gathered by rose girls In
France or by French convicts in South
America.
Evening star., 1912-11-10
s M JUR1

r-read: Court ~ appeals revArses tn
George Awfulperson case. TIL coort yis-
terdah AFTERNOON held a long session
firm two to a quarther 10 three and
cleared tn calendar up to eighteen sir-
inty-five be revarsin' tn lower coort fr
cases appealed. In tn George Awfulper-
son case tn decision Is that, while IN
prisner was undoubtedly guilty. tn lower
coort made bobble be allowin' tn dis
thrict attorney to open tn window an
expose tn pris'ner to a dhraft. be not
askin' Juryman Number Two whether he
had liver been in tn dhry goods business.
an be omittin' comma afther tn vurrd
so on page tifty-three thousan' an sivin
hundred an eighty i'm tn record
AN tn pris'ner is brought back fr
hurrid. Th iditors refuse n requist FIRM
tn pris ner TO sind around annywan to
report II. tn iliventh assistant district
attorney appears FIR tn state in spite
iv TIL law on child labor, tn witnesses
ar-re all dead an burrid. an tn on
forchnit criminal is turned out on a
wurruld that has frgotten him so com
pletely that he can't aven get a job as
an actor on tn vowdy vile stage
What happens to him IL he hasn't
got amy money! asked Mr.. Hennessy
He might as well be in England"
said Mr.. Dooley.
Copyright, 1912. by Ffnley Peter Dunne.)
Evening star., 1912-11-10

Dy getting hat which is absolutely new
IN every particular. Looked at casually,
II has the appearance OF being made OF
heavy leather. When one tries IL on
however. it is found to be lighter even
than straw. yet warm as the proverbial
toast. The hat is Of material entirely
new to this city, II not to this country.
1t Is imported from Budapest, and Is
made from the bark of fungus tree
that grows there.
1t is the work of gypsies and is made
entirely by hand. Several pieces of bark
are used In its making. although
1t requires close examination to disclose
the fact. In shape 1t is not unlike the
Eng ish rain hat which has recently
sprung into such vogue. but where the
latter is simple this is ornate. On the
left hand side II is decorated with a fiat
rosette, hand carved from the same ma
terfal from which the hat is fashioned
1t Is distinctly novelty. and the price Is
based accordingly. The dealer has ONLY
three Of them in stock-and he demands
$50 each.
Evening star., 1912-11-10

woolen gloves. not beautiful. but still
amply sufficient to keep out the cold. for
so cents. or he may buy gloves of finest
kid lined and trimmed with costly fur.
Every man wants more than one pair
of gloves He can easily make use of
several, but until recently with the aver
age man variety of hand covering en-
tailed too great drain on the expense
account. Now. however. the need has
been met by novelty in the form of a
cloth glove. partly silk, of an extremely
natty appearance These are being fea-
tured at a haberdaShery at the rate Of
number of colors-dark brown. pearl
gray. black. tan, yellow and cream col
Ored. Also they are washable. their
cleansing requiring only soap and water.
They can be worn until soiled, and then
made to appear new again with but little
more trouble than Is experienced in wash
ing an ordinary pocket handkerchief. And
their cheapness makes it possible for one
to wear gloves to match his suit, or II he
has but one suit, his tie.
There are numerous other novelties in
gloves, as. for instance the fur : lined
gauntlet for riding or driving horse or
motor car. gloves that extend well up
inside the coat sleeve. thereby keeping
the wrist warm, and unusually thick
gloves of purest silk, hailed by many as
the "dressiest" of all, and said to be far
warmer than kid.
x !.
The tie rack is a novelty for men that,
like many others, has only recently re-
turned to vogue. 1t is a needed novelty.
for most men, If they be bachelors, have
long been hanging their extra neckwear
over the mirror Of their dresser. with
the frequent result that, in order to use
the mirror, 1t Is necessary either to re-
move all the ties or go through series of
gyrations like a professional contortiOn-
list. There are many varieties of tie
racks a vast number of which may be
bought ready for use More popular.
however, is the custom Of buying the ma
terials and having one made at home.
To answer this demand. the stores have
it were. which are very inexpensive, can
be made with but little trouble. and
when finished present an appearance un-
usually expensive. In fact, one of these
embryonic tie racks. costing only 30
cents, and which can easily be finished
in a few hours. is the equal of ready
made one costing two or three dollars
One may spend as much as he Wishes
either on ready-made one or on one
which must be worked"
The most popular variety of rack is
the plain hoop. covered with silk. satin
or velvet, or some embroidered material,
according to the taste of the purchaser.
A more novel design is strip of cedar
wood. partly covered with silk or heavy
corded material, to which a number of
cedar hangers are fastened. Still another
novel tie rack, and one which can be
made by the purchaser himself, consists
merely of a strip of some fancy wood.
which may be covered, partly covered or
Evening star., 1912-11-10

- ha VI Va :
novelties for men
has returned after
an absence OF more
than twenty years.
The possession Of
little personal or
naments and lux
uries unnecessary,
perhaps, vet adding
immeasurably to
one appearance,
comfort and self
Evening star., 1912-11-10

made there and shipped to France. They
had seemed inclined to disbelieve the
story told by q traveller recently returned
from South America that any such busi-
ness as rosewood oil distillation existed.
Excellent authority, however. was soon
shown them.
The departments Investigations into at
tar Of rose manufacture were made at
the Arlington experiment farm. There
forty varieties of roses. six hundred
bushes In all. were planted out, and the
flowers carefully gathered as they opened
The total distillaton of altar of rose
from the many bushel basketfuls of rose
petals poured into the hopper could be
contained in a four-Ounce bottle. The
value of the genuine product is from $l2
to $1o an ounce. Hardness of plant and
richness OF yield are the two qualities
which are being sought for, and these
would appear from the preliminary ex-
periments to be best united in the Rosa
damascena the variety which grows in
the Valley of Roses, Bulgaria. The Rosa
centifolia is the principal one raised in
France.
The Department of Agriculture expert
menters were unwilling to make any def
mite statements as to whether rose grow
ing for perfume purposes might be
commercial success in the United States.
AS yet their work has been scarcely be-
gun, they declared, and they added that
it might be three. four or five years be-
fore they would be ready to make any
recommendation one way or the other in
regard to the question.
Their experiments were started as a re-
suit of inquiries from florists. principally
in California. as to what could be done
in this line The work has been in charge
of DR. Rodney C.. True, who has super
vision of drug plant. poisonous plant and
tea culture Investigations The real work
was done by DR.. Walter Van Fleet and
Frank Rabak of the same division Of the
bureau Of plant industry.
1t was gathered, however. from what
little could be learned concerning the Ar
lngton farm experiments. that there was
much doubt as to whether altar of rose
production ever would be considered
profitable as an industry in the United
States. The knowledge of the oil of
rosewood distillation seemed to add
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Fpam& and Well
ifSfff II II r.

article of all articles in which man has
felt free to indulge in the inborn desire
for jewelry and decoration which has
come down to us from the cave man.
Ihere are all sorts of fobs, of plain
gold. silver OF even copper, studded with
precious or semi-precious stones, accord
ing to the taste and pocketbook of the
Wearer. but there are also all sorts of
novelty fobs. In many cases the fob has
been ousted altogether by the chain,
which has returned to public favor after
an absence Of many years, but has re-
turned In different form. Instead of be-
ing of heavy gold. worn across the vest,
as was the fashion twenty-five years ago,
the fashionable chain Of today is of the
finest of links with gold button at the
end-and 1t is worn from the lapel Of the
coat extending down into the breast
pocket. The button is fashioned into all
sorts of novelties. Ones monogram may
be carved on 1t. for instance, or il NAV
be fashioned into some odd design. A
popular novelty in this connection is to
have the button carved into the emblem
of the secret society Of the wearer or.
If one cannot afford carving, the emblem
may be printed on the button with
enamel.
The same novelty is designed for those
who prefer fobs. The fob pendant, too.
may be either carved with a design or
decorated with enamel. For the younger
generation the fob pendants are carved or
versities and fraternities
i.
The novelties designed for the smoker
are numbered by the score. The old fash
ioned cigarette holder has been taken and
novelized into all sorts of shapes and de-
signs. There is a very short holder OF
plain amber. and there is an unusually
long one. a novelty brought over from
Europe. and rapidly becoming most pop
ular. Some holders are seven inches
long, with a small meerschaum tip where
the cigarette is inserted, and decorated
with gold band for the owners initials.
shaped like a small crescent Still 9TH
are wound into loops, the object be-
ing to make the smoke COOL
In cigar holders and pipes the variety OF
novelties is equally as great. The calabash
pipe, a novelty of two or three years ago,
has now become common, but new shapes
and materials are taking its place-and
strange as 1t may seem. the old-fashioned
clay and the corncob are about the new
est things in the smoking line possible.
OF course, however, both clay and corn
cob are of unusually fine quality, and
both may be elaborately embellished with
trimmings. One may buy one of the
''old-new'' pipes for as little as cents,
or one may pay as high as $40.
With the cold days here, new and heav-
ier vests catch the eye of the male shop
per, and in these, too, there are all sorts
of novelties. In some the novelties are
confined to colors. They are woven In
Evening star., 1912-11-10

NOVELTIES of the Fall
1 y and Winter Season
Personal Ornaments and
Luxuries That Add to the
Appearance-The New Vests
of Oriental Coloring-Styles
Change Even in Canes
Novelties Designed for Smok-
ers Are Numerous-Fashions
in Gloves and Hats Change
With the Season-Mono-
grams to Decorate Nearly
All Garments.
BY THE BOJLEy ARpIFK