New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-30


back, which extends often three inches
below the corset line. The new collar which
is known under the various names of Robes
pierre, Byron, Directoire, Dauphin and Rev.
olution, adds another up-to-date touch.
Sometimes it loses itself in the outspread
rcvers, in the front and again 1t rolls 10
the waistline
There are likewise very severe and jaunty
coats fashioned with the cutaway lines, and
truly delightful short box style coats with
oddly cut portions, often with belts frankly
encircling the waist, or again extending
across the back well over the sides. For
the country, the Norfolk jacket Is the IA
vorite. but strictly speaking this type of
coat is not appropriate for the city or trav-
cling. If you are planning to take second
suit of wash material one cut on the Nor
folk lines in cotton corduroy or ratine Is
quite the smartest type.
The sleeves in the strictly tailored coats
are long and very much on the order of a
mans coat sleeve. Some are finished with
a cuff, others have unique arrangements Of
straps giving the effect of a cuff. Only on
the dressier models are the quarter
sleeves shown. few of the French models
have the bell shaped sleeve, extending
slightly blow the elbow This is the type
of sleeve which is so extensively exploited
by well known French tailor, and 1t is
promised on many of the fall suits of cloth.
The Suit Of SiIken Fabric.
For travelling also many fastidious
women like suits OF q silken fabric shan
tung, pongee, foulard, charmeuse, satin,
etc. The smartest of these costumes are
kept very simple, the distinction being de-
rived from the good lines and fit. 1t is
sometimes good plan to travel in a trig
little one-piece silk frock and slip over 1t
long coat of pongee, mohair or some light
weight material which sheds the dust QUICK
ly. The luxury of the Pullman trains of
to-day makes these one piece or so-called
one-piece frocks not only comfortable, but
appropriate for travelling. Here, too. We
see the influence of the pleated skirt, either
in the pleated founces or the cluster Of
pleats let in below the yoke, often at one
side only. The long SHOULDER line showing
the kimono top to the sleeve adds new
note 10 the waist. although kimono sleeves
are sill worn by we'll dressed women, and
ii is said that their popularity will continue.
Those TO whom the high waistline is be-
coming are loath to lower it in accordance
with the dictates OF fashion for this season.
slight gathering is likewise perceptible
in these skirts of a silken constituency,
not only in the back. but in the front and
at the sides For the striped silks there
is very fetching model, buttoned at the
side or closed with band OF the silk, the
stripes being on the bias. There has been
a slight attempt TO drape these tailored
skirts in silk. the supplenoss Of the fabric
suggesting the possibility Of adapting this
feature of the seasons modes. but II cannot
be said that it is highly successful, espe-
cially in this country, where We do not take
kindly TO much elaboration of the severely
tailored style.
One Of the large department storer Is
making a speciality of silk suit In black
raiah. which, they assure their patrons,
has been modelled OH the advance fail
lines. They are really very fetching In
their severity The coats are slightly
straighter and a little longer than those
we have been wearing. for coats ranging
from twenty-eight to thirty-two inches are
promised for the winter Jackets Deep
DOCketS appear 10 DullOH tHiOhSh III 49,
list fashion. and the fronts are little
higher, for with the advent Of colder
weather fashion seemingly intends to be
sensible and TO decree coats buttoning close
TO the neck. Revers are percepu0ly mar
rover, and there is a panel back simply
with two tiny buttons at each
side. connected with little conventionalized
motifs of braid, suggesting the figure eight.
The four-gored skirt is raised above the
waistline over an inside belt and Is per-
fectly plain except for the inch wide tucks
at the seams 1t Is we'll lined with good
quality OF peau de cygne, and Is just the
suit for travelling and general utility wear.
Blouses in New Guises.
To wear with such suit there are
blouses innumerable, but mention Will be
made OF only few types. For morning
and on the train there is an excellent model
of sheer white null, pleated from shoulder
10 waist, to be worn with stock and Jaoot
Of maline lace Another charming design
from a well known French house shows
the blouse Of silk matching the skirt the
collar pointed over the shoulders, as the
new collars all are the plastron softIy
pleated In front, and the Guns OF heaVy
white or colored linen. The sleeves redch-
ing TO the three-quarter length have the
kimono shoulder top. 1t Is simple out
decidedly chic little model
A more elaborate blouse appropriate Tor
the afternoon is the one of white tuiie'
These bIouses, which have captivated Lon
don. are, of course, very transparent ana
must be worn with care, but they are very
xyOtiid he invisible In tulIe,
the waist is generally trimmed with narrow
ruching. taking the same lines as the tuchs
would. There are very long sleeves with
a ruche 10 the elbow. buttoned ught 10 'he
arm with large crystal buttons or fancy
colored buttons There Is very high'
tight fitting collar cut TO run close up
around the ears and outlined along the Top
edge with the ruche. similar ruche cages
the sleeve where u falls well over the
hand for the distinction Of this waist lies
in the fact that IT Is higher at the neck
and longer in the sleeve than any other
blouse.
Anotber effective blouse for formal oc-
casions is one OF shadow lace, yelling
eoft lining. Those which show through
their flmy meshes d flesh colored chiHoH
are enhancing. There are likewise at
tractive blouses of maline lace over white
net foundation, with discreet touches vi
chiffon cloth in the shading OF the SUIT
with which they are TO be worn. Cotton
blouses are ideal for travelling
and when visiting, as they can be washed In
the bathroom and pulled out II an electric
iron is not convenient.
A little heavier blouse. but wonderfully
good model, was displayed at one OF the
-, e.entna. ~ fall costumes II is OF 4