Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-10-04
GENERAL TENDENCIES IN NEW
MODES FOR COMING SEASON
Freakish Frocks Are Rarely Seen Graceful
Drapery Replaces the Pannier-Peplum
Effects Retain Their Vogue
Velvet and Charmeuse.

to set 1t beyond the reach of the woman
with limited dress allowance. Ana YET
the bee of clothes extravaganza buzzes
madly inside so many bonnets these days
that one never knows what may happen
when even an apparently rational woman
goes out to buy new frocks.
The foundation of this particular gown
is the finest and most beautiful of flesh
colOred charmeuse, and 1t Is yelled with
gray chiffon, Ella borately trimmed with
gray passementerie.. There is a large bow
OF dull rose velvet ribbon at the back.
held in place by a gray passementerie
ornament. A long tab-end of the ribbon
extends down the back and falls over
the long trained skirt.
Other frocks are admirable models. yet
are more simple in treatment and detail.
One is of pale green charmeuse trimmed
with narrow bands of sa BILE. The cofsage
and tunic, the latter draped at the right
side, are of black chantilly lace. The
lace drapery on the bodice is held in place
by black velvet bow.
A third gown is of pale pink liberty.
with black chantilly tunic and bodice.
Both skirt and bodice are trimmed with
white crystal beads. At the waistline in
front appears a large floral ornament of
black velvet.
The pannier. which failed of apprecia-
ton because it was awkwardly displayed,
is being replaced by more graceful and
practical drapery in the form of soft
plaits and gracefully arranged TUNES
which cling closely. showing the outline
of the figure Occasionally the pannier
is seen on some of the evening dresses
fashioned from supple liberty silk and
fine lace such as We're used for the dane
ing frock illustrated in one of the small
sketches. but the pannier will be very
d!screetly used on modish frocks this
season.
There is no radical change in the gen.
eral lines of the evening gown. The
skirts are trlfie fuller, but not enough
SO as to alter the familiar straight effect.
Even the waistline, which was lowered
during the summer. is as often seen high
as low. and practically of any height
that the designer happens to fancy.
The vogue continues for basque or pep
lum effects. and is frequently produced
by lace fichu OF bodice drapery running
down under the girdle to form points or
tabs upon the skirt.
Much lace is used on the imported
models. and enormous quantities of chif-
fon are still in evidence. despite the
flood of gorgeous brocades and velvets.
Tunic over tunic, material upon mate
rial, Intricate arrangements which often
look deceitfully simple. are in evidence
everywhere, and the amount of money
that may be put into the materials OF d
handsome gown, quite apart from the eX-
travagant prices asked for making, is APP
palling.
Exquisite fine. creamy lace covers most
of the bodice of a black charmeuse frock
seen at a recent exhibition. Deep bands
of the lace fall over the shoulders, form
ing a cape, and cross each other at the
waist line at the back. Similar bands
extend smoothly over the hips and form
a pointed tunic at the front. The short,
loose sleeves are of black chiffon. bor-
dered by bands of the black charmeuse.
This model has an air of discreet de-
mureness, but its price is exceedingly
high.
Another black-and-wh model from
the same famous designer is made OF
chiffon velvet The corsage and tunic of
white chiffon are deliberately embroider-
ed with metal and jet beads. The tunic
and sleeves are bOrdered with black vel
vet and the girdle is made from the
same material. At the top of the high
corslet belt there is a touch of scarlet
satin, which shows through the draped