Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

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are the sort Of clothes-to quote his Eng
/ fish patrons again-"that become lady.
Francis IL another favorite OF English
women. This couturier makes clothes
pleasing and graceful as worth's-and
| even more conservative. Cabot sends
| many ball gowns to London for the sea-
SON. for no one has the mastery or even-
Cabot. Everything that Cabot has made
this spring has giittered In some manner
and the evening gowns that come from
| this house are famous for their loneliness
Of drapery-and for their emphatically
decollete effects.
- =
Englishwomen are famed for their
beautiful shoulders, throats and arms.
In America women over frst youth are
apt to be either too thin, or inclined to
unfortunate embonpoint; but the tall,
well proportioned Englishwoman has
usually most lovely lines Of neck and
shoulders, and decollete effects. seen at
the great balls and in the boxes at the
operas are even more pronounced than Is
tho custom in America. It is Callot who
has the genius for draping chiffon and
lace so exquisitely over the figure that
the shoulders seem to melt into the gown.
and one can scarcely say where the De,
diamante trimming or bit Of gold lace
which shows that the flesh is really
covered though the lines suggest the
figure au natural. This effect is sug.
gested in two Callot costumes pictured
| Today. One of these is the superb dinner
gown for restaurant wear which has the
inevitable Cabot touch OF gold in the en-
broidery on the chiffon tunic. Restaurant
dining IL becoming more and more OF
| a custom among London's smart set and
the scene at the Savoy and other fash
ionable dining places slike it is very
splendid at the dinner hour. AL London
in New York; and the theaters begin
later. This is perhaps because the Lon
don season comes at time or year wnen
darkness does not fall until between .
toilets worn during the day would be
rather banal-though to be sure one does
see them in London on the days OF the
royal receptions at Buckingham Palace.
has tunic of black chiffon embroidered
in leaf effect with green and gold sequins.
and this tunic falls over skirt of tur-
Quoise blue charmeuse, very parroW al
the foot and finished with a narrow,
deeply faced train around which the gold
embroidered chiffon winds in peculiar.
snaky effect. Out OF the dark chiffon
tunic the shoulders rise with milk-like
wilderness, and they are covered only
with swathings of tulle, held in place
ders. Under the airy tulle there Is really
a lining of flesh-colored chiffon, but this
does not reveal itself to the eye. the
effect of sheer drapery over shoulders,
bust and back being rather startling.
This simple but beautiful Ca.llot restau-
rant gown is accompanied by stunning
hat Of black hemp, faced with black vel
vet and trimmed with white ostrich
plumes The boots Of satin match the
turquoise satin skirt and have small
diamaute buttons.
When the trailing satin skirt Is lifted,
buttoned satin boots are almost invari-
ably revealed, though of course these
boots are the most frivolous, dainty
affairs with thin soles and high Louis
heels. The buttoned tops are exquisitely
fitted to the ankle. and one may pay as
high as $40 for a pair Of made
to-order satin evening boots with
specially selected buttons. When slippers
are worn. they are usually the strap
affairs that button firmly over the instep
and give q trim. slender look to the foot.
The toe and instep straps are beaded
with pearl or crystal. and there il q fad
for scarlet slippers and stockings with
red beading on the slipper toes and
straps.
+ A0Ot0ef Ca1lOI 8OWu SHOWING THO OK
treme decolletage effect is pictured in
the illustration of a seated figure with
arms cIasped over the back of a chair.
The top of the gown only Is shown here.
for the picture really refers to the Won
derful Georgette hat-wonderful, because
Of the simplicity yet elegance which is
represented in the design. Enelishwomen
adore these supple brimmed picture hats,
loaded with plumes: and, indeed. no type
Of headgear il 80 becoming to the Eng
lish type Of beauty which is spiritual and
dignified without the piquancy OF the
French type or the dash and individuality
of the American type which make eccen-
trio and trying headdresses possible.
To get back to the Cabot gown un-
der consideration, however. the deool-
lete effect as far AZ the cut OF the bodice
and absence Of sleeve are concerned is
very evident; but the upper part OF this
gown, above the high-waisted charmeuse
skirt, il made Of chiffon. and under this
chiffon is q lining Of desh-colored silk
Of the thinnest possible quality. so that
at little distance the figure seems un-
clothed from the waist line up, except Tor
the smart bow Of black velvet caught un-
der a diamond clasp on one shoulder and
the line of diamante trimming which de-
fines the edge Of the surplice front.
AS some one has put it, the English
evening gown makes up In length what