davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
Petticoat Styles.

A LREADY the promise Of wider skirt.
has introduced the delightful under
skirt. Numbers Of fascinating models
ihave been displayed recently. among
them being pretty one Of soft white
satin. decorated at the hem with two
hounces OF fne val, lace. On the lower
nounce. at regular intervals. tiny wreaths
OF pink and pale blue chiffon roses APP
peared. Equally dainty and perhaps more
practical was q petticoat In sake blue
soft silk. the hem OF which was seen in
black beads. Four hounces Of fine black
net gave . charming finish to this model.
One OF the quaintest and .prettiest Of
designs In underskirts f. cut very straight
and perfectly plain. save for three bands
OF pulled silk OF satin, above the hem.
Another attractive design Stimulates q
tunics by means OF q nat band OF giace
silk split up ut the side and trimmed with
short silk fringe. There is q certain
old-world air about q petticoat OF pale
tan-colored satin with bands OF the Same
material above the HEM. embroidered
with narrow ribbOn In pink and green
shades Then there are some exquisite
nimsy petticoats made Of flne lace and soft
satin. embroidery and flowers, designed to
be worn with tu1le and net dresses Very
handsome Is q petticoat OF pink satin
yelled with silver la0, decorated with
TIVE nounces - mo Brussels net piped
With mink
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
The Dolly Warden Pannier
now the Paris Cry

It lacks in height. and trains are more
universally worn in England than in
America-so far as fashionables go. In
her street attire the Englishwoman lie ex-
ceedingly conventional. For shopping she
wears the simplest Of tailored costumes.
and her tailored suits of serge or some
neutral toned worsted mixture are always
rather severe and mannish in effect
Englishwomen patronize English tailors
They will have none OF the frivolous
French effects in tailored wear adored
by the Parisians and copied by the Amer
leans. The huge. one-sided revers,
tight little skirts and wide kimono sleeve
OF the French and American tailored
street costume have no place In the Eng
Iish wardrobe. In the street and In the
country, and especially when travelling.
the Englishwoman wears q severe albeit
perfectly cut tailored suit in mannish
style, and she is very likely to wear with
1t a mannish neglige blouse Of silk
adorned with four-in-hand tie. In the
house-well, that is quite another matter;
and the Englishwoman's house gowns.
dinner and luncheon gowns, bridge and
ball gowns are ertravagantly feminine,
and trained skirts and the daintiest of
footwear are the rule; for when cere-
moniously dressed, the Engiishwoman
conveyances as the American woman
does-cab hire Is too cheap in London.
The Englishwoman favors a much more
elaborate couture with evening dress
than Is the rule In America. As any
one may perceive, by glancing at the
photographs and portraits Of women Of
high degree in England, braids, curls,
waves and frizzles are in high favor, and
the small hairdressing which models the
contour of the head is seldom seen.
Englishwomen have beautiful fluffy hair,
usually sunny In color-which may be
partly due to the climatic conditions, and
though their coiffures are not as smart
or as classic as those worn over here,
they undoubtedly suit the English type
Of beauty. With most evening gowns
now the couturier sends home an appro-
pirate couture ornament and also the
inevitable cluster Of artificial flowers to
be pinned at belt or corsage. Bands of
| black velvet edged at either side with
tiny rhfnestones are very fashionable
now. and are most effective in dark hair.
Chaplets Of leaves are beautiful in fair
hair, and there are also bands OF gold
and silver lace, and Of tulle from which
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

fiected damply the dreariness of London
fog.
All. but London Is bonny in May-and
in June! Sit, some evening about dusk.
at the dinner hour on the Savoy balcony
overlooking the Thames. Smell the sweet
ness OF the rhododendrons In the en-
the lights come out along the dim reaches
OF the river. Hear the twitter- of the
birds and the sound Of young voices com-
ing up from tho laxily drifting pleasure
boats-and you win cease to wonder that
the English folk select this time Of year
Tor their own season. or that half the
world HES to London In May and June.
The moment the couturiers In Paris
have done with the business Of the spring
openings, they set busily to work on
English orders. Englishwomen run over
to Paris In March and April to make
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

there are even boots with rhinestones
set In the heels.
In line with this gayety Of footwear
10 the fad for wearing stockings Of flesh
coiored silk. which give the somewhat
startling effect Of no stocking at all
above the top Of the buttoned boot This
effect Is especially striking when dainty
boots Of tan kid with pale tan kid tops
accompany the hesh-colored hosiery.
With black boots many women prefer
to wear white silk stockings or those In
q pale champagne tint. but the flesh
colored hose are really the favorites.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

Black stockings are rarely worn bv thu
fashionably dressed woman now except
with black satin slippers accompanying
all-black costumes.
. White lingerie and tailored serge OIL
mohair costumes this summer will bt
accompanied by trig buttoned boots o,
snowy bucksl1in with welted soles an6
moderately high heels in the straight
Cuban style. These boots are much
smarter than the canvas styles, which
are rather out of It this season. TIL.
buckskin boot can be cleaned as easil,
as the canvas one and has a much NOR,
distinguished look on the foot
With street costumes of dark materia
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

French heel and very thin turned sole
or '.paper-weight SOLE as these very
thin. soft soles used to be called. though,
of course. leather, not PAPER, is the ma
terial used for shoe1ng my lady's foot.
quisitely fitted to instep and ankle, and
the buttons are set close together so that
there IL no wrinkling or bullying of the
satin. The foot and ankle look trim and
dainty In such q boot, and 1t In usually
moro becoming to the foot, and especially
to the ankle, X that member Isl not
faultiessly turned, than slipper. Boots
to match afternoon gowns in unusual
coiorings may be had made to order at
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

erence to low-cut slippers This vogue
OF the buttoned boot IL 30 pronounced
mat even some spring bridal costumes
have been accompanied by boots Of white
satin. dainty boots having thin soIes
and tan French heels and the touch of
bead embroidery on a pointed toe which
has special bridal suggestion.
For dancing frocks there are delectahie
satin boots a. dainty ~ the datnties<
slippers and having, Of course, the high
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

In the corsage 10 a great, fiery red rose
Another gown OF gold and green brocaded
crepe is draped over a white satin jupe.
and the transparent tunic Of fiesh-coIoT-
ed chiffon rises from the crepe drapery
In startling decolette effect. though sheer
shadow lace drawn over bust and
shoulders beneath the chiffon really
makes the bodice very modest The
third Callot creation for this young Eng
lish girl Is the most g1rlish gown OF the
three, and is OF pink charmeuse finish
ed at the foot with silver fringe. A tunic
Of spangled net falls to the knee, and Is
also weighted with silver fringe Above
this is a second tunic OF pink chiffon
which drops in points almost 70 the an
kle at either side, each point being
weighted with a silver tassei. The bodice
silver beads. and the slippers are but
toned strap affairs of silver over pink
silk stockings.
The English season always affords the
Paris couturfers unlimited opportunity
for the display OF originality in gorgeous
evening wraps. No matter how warm
the evening is. decollete gown must be
covered by a wrap for the garbage or
limousine journey. and though the wrap
may be Of the dlmiest fabric, Il must be
a wrap, and suggest by its graceful,
Very straight at the back character1zes
the new wraps. though the fronts are
Tapped and draped In soft folds. The
wrap picture is of soft satin with Cross
stitch embroidery done In softly blended
colors. Though the upper part Of this
wrap IL gathered at the hip line, the
weight OF the lower portion drags the
soft satin into straight lines. This wrap
is draped toward the foot at the back.
the fronts opening to reveal the skirt Of
the evening gown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
I heI66ue Of the
BU77Z2VEDBDOZ

-" FHETHER or not a revolution
Nv in dress is imminent and
M narrow, classical draperies are
w about to be replaced by Grim
dimes and looped up Dolly
Warden effects-as some maintain-the
revolution in footwear styles Is unmis-
taxable.
High footwear is now the correct thinS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

selections Of models and fabrics and
there are couturiers who have English
customers who do not trouble to come to
Paris at all, but send In orders for so
many bali gowns, 30 many dinner gowns
and SO many bridge gowns, leaving the
responsibility In the hands of tho trusted
coutur1er who has their measurements.
Worth and Redeem have their regular
customers Of this sort and Worth Is par
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

ticularly beloved of Ehglishwomen who
leave the eccentricities Of Poiret ana
Paquin for the Americans. Worth, as
any Englishwoman Will tell you, makes
clothes for gentlewomen. He may be re-
lied on for conservative, refined effects.
By Worth one Is always perfectly ana
models are not copied by the enterpris-
ing manufacturers like the sensational ef-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
NOTES AND NOTIONS.
Back Combs Again.

I 7 is said that every fashion reappears
once in seven years in SOM form or
other. but back combs have not waited
as long as that. 1t is scarcely i've years
since they began to disappear from the
places Of honor in the glass cases OF the
shops. but now one notes that they are
back in the front rows In the glare of the
electric 'limelight' which sets or the
merchandise In fashions favor. Fancy
hair pins have been used all winter. but
back combs matched by barrettes. are q
new style note for spring and summer.
These new combs are set with rhine.
stones and with semi precious Jewels in
oriental effect. and many OF them are very
beautiful. They have been worn at Palm
Beach and Atlantic City this spring, and
are sure to be summer favorites. The
hack comb, OF course, means the low
hairdressing. and there are strong in
dications that this style is to be very
fashionable next summer.
A New Daintiness for the Toilet.
MANY women are troubled by the
~ slipping down Of shoulder straps
on undergarments. the narrow strap Of
knitted vest slipping out over the arm i'm
annoying manner. or the shoulder straps
OF corset cover and vest refusing to lie
smoothly. one over the other. II IL trim
ness and correctness in all these little
dress details that means good grooming.
and the woman whose fetish Is dainti-
ness attends as carefully to her shoulder
straps as to her boot buttons. Such a
woman win hail with delight q new de-
vice on the inexpensive jewelry counter
q lingerie pin. nat and inconspicuous.
with q special clasp that may be fasten-
designed to hold the shoulder straps OF
lingerie garments neatly In place. and
they come In pairs at . triniag price.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07


White serge and pique coats will prove
very popular during the coming season.
together with white linen designs. with
dainty handwork Of both open and closed
embroidery Pique will be trimmed with
heavy embroidery and designs that show
heavy lace and embroidery together. An
other trimming will be bands Of venise
lace, set in to be transparent, and there
win be little lingerie hats and bonnets to
match.
White China silk is made into charming
over, with nothing but hand embroidery
or q trimming Of Irish or val lace. or
the open madeira embroidery. China SILK
also makes q soft lining for . wolfe coa1,
q dainty bonnet, little SacQue lined with
Saline and kimonos lined with baby nan
mel.
concerning the tiny bit OF material which
makes the first close covering for the
embroidery, or shirred handkerchief
lawn. with q silk lining. or else OF white
cashmere, benEaline embroidered crepe
de chine or shirred liberty silk A quilted
can lining may be used for cool days, and
the same unwadded is soft and pleasant
for the little head that Hes asleep 30
often In the open air. There 10 . prefer
ence for all-white first caps. and the
style Of decoration Is as various q their
number. MANY OF them have tho hat
turn back portion around the face. on
which the embroidery or other decoration
il mased, admitting OF ribbon rosettes
over the ears Il desired. while another
favorfte style has high decoration above
the brow.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
Theater Gowns in Wonderful Diamante Effects.
The EngliShVoman AdoreS a Picture Hat.
COiffureS More Elaborate Than Ameri-
can Women Fancy Evening Wraps.

UST when New
York is beginning
to look dull and
uninhabited with
boarded up house
fronts and avenues
deserted by smart
eQuipages, London
is waking to its
season Of gayety,
The rainy weeks
are over, the sun
shines bhthefy on
f1uttering awnings
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
The Spring Cleaning.

|CPRING cleaning may be an evil.
~ but 1t is a necessary one from
hygienic point Of view. and now IL
the time to attack it. Carpets should be
taken up, beaten and cleaned, heavy cur
tains taken down and cleaned before
being put away for the summer, repaper-
ing whore necessary. floors stained. and
repolished, cleaning and doing up OF bed
ding, ETC., which are only a few duties
to which attention must be paid.
A plan OF campaign should be drawn
up. so that the work may be arranged
in methodical fashion. and arrange
ments should be made to have the clean
ing carried out while the family is away
from home, for 1t is unfair to expect
servants to get through the work OF
house cleaning and have their ordinary
work to do at the same time. If it is
impossible for all members OF the family
to be away, the rooms should be reno
waited systematically, SO that the whole
house shall not be in state of upheaval.
for, although man may appreciate the
fact that his house is dainty and attrac-
tive in appearance, he usually fails TO
realize that q certain amount Of work
and trouble is essential to keep 1t up
has grown accustomed.
az
There is one great advantage of a
spring cleaning, and that IL. the necessity
for going through all the drawers and
making a clearance Dvery member of
the household should make a point of
discarding everything for which he or
she has no use. for there is nothing more
contrary to real tidiness than the hoard
ing of quantities Of unnecessary and
often utterly useless garments or knick-
knacks.
In the work of cleaning there is no
cleaners. Upholstered furniture walls
and other places difficult to, reach can
be cleaned in the most effective, fashion
There should be sufficient supply OF
rubbers, busters, flannel, busting sheets,
scrubbing brushes, brooms. ammonia,
kneelers for use when scrubbing.
All blankets should be washed. and
those no longer needed put away In tin
lined boxes with camphor between the
folds; mattresses. pillows and holsters
should at least be well beaten and
brushed In the open air, while the mat
tress covers should be washed before
being put back on the beds Bedsteads
should be thoroughly scrubbed. and the
ironwork rubbed over with paraffln. All
pictures must be taken from the walls
and brushed with a soft brush. and
where necessary the WAN paper should
be rubbed down with stin dough of
flour and water. All the furniture should
and then washed with vinegar and water.
Carpets should be lifted and beaten and
the floors scrubbed. First brush the
floors well to remove all dust. and have
- xfnv- FOL
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

All Of the new sl<irts are cut wider, and
yet many do not measure any more in
width than those that have been smart
this season. There Is little more FULL
ness around the upper part. and no good
skiEt dEAUs IN around III knaaA
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

Then. OF course. all the paint should
be washed down. the Vanished paint be-
ing treated somewhat differently from
that which b unvarnished. In the
frst place. dust the paint thor
oughly. then dissolve two tablespoonfuls
of powdered borax In little boiling
water, and add to this SUFFICIENT cold
water to bring the total amount used
ia three ptnts. Sponge the paint well
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

on window boxes gay with color; on the
young green Of leaves and grass In the
parks: on polished plato glass windows
along Bond street and other smart shop
ping streets. and on spotless pavements
that look as though they had never re-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

THERE il little change in the style
Of the long first dresses from year
to year. Made mostly OF nne
French lawn or nainsook, the long Slips
and handmade dresses for the bahy-in-
arms ARE fashioned with round or square
yokes of embroidery or inserted lace ap-
piled to the main garment with ENTIRE
deux. Sometimes box plaits are added on
the shoulders, running downward with
good effect, tiny handrun tucks filing In
the space between them on the middle
front ana back, below the yoke. with RIB
bon rosettes applied on the boxplaits for
occasions Of ceremony. There is no limit
to the fancifM establishment Of these
first frocks, and the slirts may be fash
toned with q deep hand-stitched hem, or
hemstitching, or they may be tucked.
lace-inserted and rufaed.
Sweet little cashmere sacQues are made
TO wear over these long dresses. In case
Of q change Of temperature, and the pres
emit fashion il to embroider the little gar
ment first, then line it with duplicate
sacuue of pink or blue China silk, having
the seams inside and scallop the two
edges together.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

about 80 the pair. but the ordinary black
and white satin boot IL carried In stock
by most high-grade dealers at from $40
to SO. Come of these black satin boots
have crystal buttons. which give sdias
mantle effect - the foot Is moved. and
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1912-06-21

tion fight and left IL to them to de-
eide what position they would take in
the struggle.
Mr.. Roosevelt called before him
two delegates from each OF the states
which has supported him and the
leaders In his campaign. After out
lining his position. declaring that he
would continue his fight ON princi-
Piles he had outlined from the begin
ming. the colonel left the room and
the delegates and leaders sat down to
deliberate.
statement issued 10y MIR. Roosevelt this
afternoon
The time has come when feel that
must make certain statements. not
merely to honestly elected members
Of the republican national convention.
but to the rank and file of the repub-
iican party and 10 the honest people
of the entire nation. | went into this
fight for certain great principles. At
this moment can only serve the
principles by continuing TO bear tho
personal responsibility. which their
advocacy has brought to me.
"On behalf of these principles
made my appeal straight to the peo-
pie themselves.
II went before them. | made my
argument and every move ! made was
In the open. without concealment OF
any kind. Opposition To me was ex-
traordinariiy bitter. for | was op-
posed by the big constituencies politi-
cal bosses. with back OF them the
solid phalanx of the big.
bcneficiares of special
privileges in every form. and of course
the many big newspapers which are
by or in the interests OF
the bosses and special privileges.
Nevertheless. in the appeal to the
people. | won. In the primary states
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1912-06-21

new party would be formed, should
such a decision be reached.
Whether it would be held in Chi
cago or elsewhere. and whether IT
would be delayed until after the
democratic national convention were
points on which no information
could be obtained from those in the
confident of the former president
The opinion was expressed by some
of his supporters that the outcome
at Baltimore would have consid-
cradle bearing upon the situation.
Colonel Roosevelt said there had
been some difference of opinion
among his supporters as to the ad-
visa bilty of bolting. The ohio dele
gates, he said. felt that under their
instructions they should remain in
the convention until after the nomi-
nation was made. other delegates
including some of those from Cali
fornia were i'm favor Of Withdrawing
at once.
The agreement finally arrived at
was reached at a caucus IN "hlch
were two representatives from each
state having Roosevelt delegates as
well as those states from which the
Roosevelt candid ties for seats IN the
convention have been excluded.
The caucus passed unanimously a,
resolution introduced 10y Henry Allen,
of Kansas" said Colonel Roosevelt
This resolution was that the repub-
Iican party would not submit TO haN
ing the nomination for president de-
termined by Taft and If the eonVen-
tion declined to seat the delegates
fraudulentIy seated by fhe national
committee the Roosevelt delegates
would decline TO be bound by any ac-
tion Of the convention.
The second resolution was passed
later stipulating that the Roosevelt
delegates would take part In the con-
vention IL the IS delegates were
seated and IL they were not seated
they would remain in the convention
and not participate In IT.
The text Of these resolutions was
not made public.
Colonel Roosevelt explained that
the action Of the caucus did not mean
that auy delegates wJuid bolt. butt