Evening star., 1912-11-03

up evenly all around.
X X
Beaver. which has heretofore failed to
reach first place among hat materials, has
attained the position this fall, for already
there is literally a craze for 1t. In large
hats, moderate sized ones and small mod
els. one can hardly get beyond 1t. Vel
vet is it's close rival, and Is much more
apt to be becoming. Plush and velour
are reserved for less formal hats Hats
of either of these materials are developed
upon simple lines, always with the trim
ming, whatever its nature, carefully ar
ranged with view to emphasizing the
simplicity.
superimposed on the velvet brims, or a
swathing Of tulie laid around them, per-
haps held down at one point or another.
with large rose, while net Is much used
and In various ways upon all the all
black hats. One of the most effective
treatments Is the broad band of jet with
two long jet quils rising therefrom.
Then there are innumerable other de-
vices In jet, such as the string of large
jet beads that is flung quite carelessly
around the crown to drop about the
brim, caught here and there as though
by accident and smaller beads that are
used to edge brims and outline bows and
quilts. Paradises and aigrettes are much
IN vogue poised upright or stuck straight
out in uncompromising fashion, as the in
herent grace Of the pretty ornaments per-
mits. This year, whether 1t is a costly
paradise or a pheasants breast. or a
half-dollar coque feather. 1t matters not
SO it is posed dashingly.
80 Ay{r 0fh
being used almost invariably in pairs
moire are in great demand, as also are
those which combine two materials, as
velvet and tulle or silk and jet.
Much is done with trimming under
brims-a large tailored bow. a rose, or
q breast, or even large quills are used
in their ornamentation. Band trimmings
are In vogue and usually becoming, and
they are seen upon both large and small
hats. posed fatty against the crown or
standing away from it.
A new shape that comes both in moire
faced with velvet and in all-velvet has
a large brim slightly rolled at one side
and extended well out at the back, while
the crown is mound shaped and of mod
crate size. AS a matter of fact. the pre-
vaiiing fashion calls for the elongated
type of hat whatever its shape otherwise.
1t does not suit every one, but neverthe-
less will be generally accepted.
A great many draped effects are noted,
but always with the soft arrangements
OF velvet or plush. or whatever the ma
terial used for the crown may be, there
is very obvious tailored suggestion.
That is, 1t is never too baggy or too ex-
aggeratedly pouched over the brim. The
Tam-o -Shanter crowns have come In
again. They are seen on small and mod
erately sized hats as well as in the very
large ones, and are much more attractive
than when they were first introduced.
Delightfully."- feminine are the small
hats that after providing portion of the
brim, drop down in classical style over
one shoulder. or perhaps 1t Is down the
back. A model in which this manipula-
ton of q white breast makes" the hat
consists of q foundation of amethyst vel
vet: that is, a close-fitting crown has
amethyst velvet draped about 1t, then,
started at the left side, a long breast
curves a tribe above the face and veers
down to one SIDE, falling low over the
shoulder after threading two cut-steel
buckles.
| Another model that has a double brim,
one dropping over the other and the two
| together sharply pointed at opposite
points. CT a diagonal line. has two un-
curled plumes about six and eight Inches