Bisbee daily review., 1912-10-06

NEW YORK. Oct. 5;-Orc of tae most striking features of e new models exhibited in the sl ps now Is the predominance Of 9 thiI soft woolens. They are wonderfully light in weight and very beautiful but they are not easy 10 handle sue ccssfully. Some of the most beautiful and modish of these thick .Wollens are plain or mixed velours de laine. peau de chamois and peau q agneau. which have soft. chamoislike surfaces; cut yelours, which is a wool velours n which lines have been cut. exposing a foundation of contrasting color which shows like an undershot pin stripe; tyl-tyl, which Is wool epongei wool corduroy a soft thick wool Cord- ed like corduroy. Zibellnes in saIio IS new weaves. ratine plain or SToc'e, and pavement block diagonal and striped yelours de laine
 There are many other similar ma terials with countless variations. They are all lovely in texture and coloring, but in spite Of all the impOrt- CTS say that these materials, thouEl light in weight. will be too warm le. comfort except in very cold weau and will collect dust too readily. St-. they are pre-eminently the mode, an1 while serges, cheviots. corded studs of the Bedford cord type and similar tailoring materials are still accep-- able and correct for the coat and skirt costume, the fad Of the moment Is the tailored costume of the thicker and softer wool.
 Combinations of plain and brocade tyltyl are new and effective and the use of matelasse in association win plain material is one of the new sea sons innovations. The effect Is not always happy, but in some cases it is exceedingly so, and very handsome costumes have been built up entirely Of the matelasse, which looks very much like a particularly handsome brocade silk zenana cloth, though its texture is lighter, softer, and altogeth- CT different.
 4 good deal of fur is used on both froeks and suits, often appearing as a mere touch and in unexpected plac- es. One Of the French makers has sent out seyera, very chic models in cut velvet, giving the effect of pm stripe velvet on a chiffon foundation. These models have a neck finish ot fur, a very narrow line of skunk CT EaDAt luAH4AlE aA0AAAA tAAN AAeAAN e-AAs- sises Of the bodice neck just at the base of the throat but oddly dipping down in a sligbt point at Jne back.
 On evening gowns of the sheerest sort lines Of fur border the draperies or finish the little sleeves. There was. for example, a very charming model in one importers collection which was of white tulle over white satin. The short. loose sleeves and shoulders were of fine lace, and from the shoulder yoke surplice draperies of tuIle were drawn softly into nar' TOW girdie The skirt had an over. dress Of julie. fulled around the sides and back. and drawn forward a little toward the front, leaving the satin Un' derskirt in view down to the knees but meeting under 8 low of tulie at knee height The sUrplice drapery and the skirt drapeFy were bOTGeTad narrowly with skunk, and lines Oi the dark fur entered into inc tuile bow on the skirt
 Everything in oyeTdrapery that pro duces a line wider above the knees than below. that is tucked ID uI drawn softly away from the from. .s dubbed pannier drapery. though Y may be a very far cry from the pan piers of. old or even from the pannier of the last spring season. And mosi of the draped skirts come under this head. The underskirt or fourTea1 may be very narrow, is al least linn and narrow in effect even when plat ed. but the Oyerdrapery is full eEouSi to broaden the silhouette urifle anl sometimes it even approaches the bouffant.
 There is a good deal of skirt drap cry, falling straight, long and cling ing on the right side, but caught uI in some modified pannier pun fash ion at the left front, the long line usually including the front and lend dng height to the figure, while tnt drapery at the left makes concession to the vogue of drapery movement A simple cloth frock in blue and biacf stripe. displayed in one of the shops showed a pleasing version of this one sided drapeTy arrangement and had clever unpTetentious trimming of tiny black drops set on 10 simulate wid, band
 There are many smart cloth trocNs ali much longer than in the Frencf