The Pioche record. [volume] (Pioche, Nev.) 1908-1925, 1912-09-07
In Touch With
Fashion
n HE new fashions are directoire.
says Paris. but directoire with
difference. The directoire

dinerence. The directOtre |
styles we have all been used to
during the past seasons were femi- |
nine directoire fashions-now the |
masculine directolre modes are to |
have their turn. And II ever modish- |
ness was the mode for masculinity, 1t |
was. In the elegant directoire days
when every chap under his dotage |
was a dandy-and some old fellows
in the dotage age, too. These gay
dogs, II you please, affected silk
stockings, and starched sleeve and
neck frills. and perfumed coiffures.
They we're as fastidious about their
cosmetics as any belle of today, and
at the same time they could handle a
sword and swallow a round of toasts
in q way that proved them anything
but effeminate.
The directoire dandy wore an oddly
cut coat, which was somewhat like
the modern dress coat extremely ex
aggerated. This coat had sharply
cutaway effectin front and tremen-
dously long tails at the back, high,
turned-down collar, huge revers, and
long, snugly fitting sleeves. Filmy
frills escaped from the sleeves and
foamed down the front of a lively
waistcoat, between the big coat re-
vers. 1t is these dandified coats of
the late Observation-Disclosures that have
formed the inspiration for women's
tailored wear this season. The coat
tails, the cutaway fronts, the gay
vest, the frills, the fanciful revers are
all here. and coats are built in con-
trasting color and material to suggest
the directoire dandy's cloth coat and
satin breaches. Half of the new tail
ored wear for fall-hailing from Paris
shows the coat and skirt OF contrast
ing fabrics, and the broadcloth coat
frequently as the velvet coat with a
skirt Of cloth or silk. Smooth finished
materials are in high favor, and
though rough cheviots, wide welted
serges and homespuns will undoubted-
ly be used, trotabout suits and coats,
the silky broadcloths, very soft, chif-
fony velvets, faille silks and poplin
weaves will be favored for dressy cos
tunes. A mixed weave of worsted
with mohair threads, called in Paris
permo weave, Is particularly well
liked because of its lustrous, silky
texture, and this permo fabric comes
in all the subdued. hardto-describe
colorings in which the French coutu'
riers delight. A taupe shade and a
hoa "a he
most distinctive.
Grays In Favor.
Grays continue in the pronounced
favor accorded them this summer
and many Of the women who wore
nothing but black and white combina
lions last season are now taking w
their grays. 1t 10 a wise woman who
-electing to dress in gray for sea
son-selects one particular shade o
gray and keeps to 1t. There arr
dozens OF shades and gradations O
shade in the grays; there are blue
grays. mauve-grays, pink-grays; taupe
smoke and elephant grays, and ONT
gray can clash with another with a
grating an effect as pink and orang
or any other outrageous color com
binatioR.
Two striking features Of Paris fash
ions for fall are the prevalence @
pleats and the full-length sleeve. Tn
elbow sleeve has passed with the hig
waistline-which is now RELOCATED
the limbo Of passe fashions. All belt
are at the waistline normal; an
some OF the coat effects even dro
below this point; and to make sur
that nobody shall mistake the fat
that a normal waistline Is now tn
mode, fashion has decreed that a
waists shall be emphasized by 81
die. belt or sash of one sort or al
other This is again memory of II
directoire dandy, whose sash, II h
costume was military. was a very O
uamental part thereof.
Sleeves are not only long. but the
are snug. They cover the forear
and even the wrist in all coats, frocl
and blouses intended for day-wea
Elbow sleeves in the form Of loos
lace draperies are noted on some
the new evening frocks, but the ba
forearm is not considered de rige
during the morning or aiternoon-u
less with an informal at-home CT
tune. Many OF the sleeves have
most ECCENTRIC and fanciful cut. al
frills falling from the lower edge al
to their length. Cuffs are enormous
modish and the fashionable cuff m
be a mere band, or a deep ana
slashed, notched and garnished wi
many buttons and buttonhole loops.
fact, buttons are the style fetish
the fall season. No good luck C
come to q costume which does n
boast buttons in some part OF
makeup, and one may pay as mu
for ones buttons as for the mater
OF ones gown. New buttons made
silk braid are very fashionable
tailored coats and skirts OF bro'
cloth, aud these braid buttons
used also on silk and velvet costun
with good effect.
Machine PLAT Everything.
Buttons and sleeves have ratf