davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-03-17
CHIC TAFFETA HATS.

Z Jerry pretty and comfortable are tho
" new two-ounce hats made of tai
feta silk. The crown. brim and
trimming are usually Of the same fabric.
and with something like eighty-two
shades of silk To choose from ana with
which to form attractive combinations
tl.s4e IS little Likelihood OF these dainty
and practical hats showing a sameness.
The possibilities for achieving novel ef-
fects are greater now than ever before.
and so the temptations to increase the
number III srrng and summe- hats in
ones wardrobe have grown correspond
lnSly greater.
The Drirns of these taffeta hats are
faced with silk of a bright and becoming
shade and the same co or is used to line
the inside Of the crown. The outside
part is trimmed in some snapely contrast
ing color of tafeta. For example. dark
blue seashore hat which is to be worn
well down over the head has two
toned pink lining. The only stiffness is
supplied by fine wire sewed in at the
seams of the melon-shaped crown.
These little hats may be bent and turned
into any shape. and when on the head
there is nothing to spoil the coiffure or
make one feel conscious of supporting
heavy weight. They cling to the head
in a way that will be appreciated by the
woman who depends largely upon pins to
keep her headwear secure. 1t would take
a strong gale to dislodge them after they
are pulled down to the rim Of the ears
and the brim tilted coquettishly upward
in front. and q small pin added for final
Evening star., 1912-03-17

skirt and Easter bonnet. The hoop skirt
is made Of crepe paper and Is built over
the edge of round basket. the handles
of which. trimmed with paper roses and
ribbons, are evident In the. photograph.
OF course the basket is heaped with small
trinkets like metal purses. -jewelry. silver
pencils, puzzle toys and other delights.
all wrapped in tissue paper: and each
package attached to the ribbon which
passes through the voluninous skirt of
the barnyard belle. The tiny chicks tied
to the other end Of the ribbons of course
fall to the possessions of the children who
pull the ribbons.
Another: interesting Easter table dec
3ration is the hayload driven by Bre'r
Rabbit with Mother Hen as a farm hand
| balancing the load behind. The hayload
is really big box Of gifts and bon
, bons, each attached to the ribbon that
| holds swinging chick. The Easter air
ship is a new idea for children's parties.
The airship, heaped with presents. scars
aloft-that is, it Is attached to the chan
delier, high above the heads Of the small
folk, and ribbons attached to the presents
loat temptingly, SO that one has to spring
up bit to reach one and pull it down
along with the gift attached to it's far
ther end
For entertainment at the Ea Ster party
Evening star., 1912-03-17
Suggestions for BeadWork.

THERE is no end to the alluring pos
sibilities of the fashionable bead
work used on dress accessories.
The making Of very pretty hatpins, LOT
instance, is not at all difficult. The BEADS
are sewn on to very fine canvas, Wnlcn
must be carefully chosen in size which
will not allow of any bead passing
through to the back. When finished the
canvas is stretched over a wooden button
mold. Another way of doing the mount
ing is to stretch the beaded canvas over
a circle of thick cardboard, into which the
head Of an ordinary hatpin is inserted.
When the head is firmly attached to the
pin, the back must be made neat with a
piece of silk matching the chief color in
the beads.
A bead buckle gives opportunity for fas-
ed canvas over it the same as Tor nat
Din and finish in the same way.
Another pretty way OF utilizing bead
work is OH neckwear. Black velvet RID
bon two inches wide makes very pretty
crayat. with a fiat bow at the top and
two straight tabs falling down from the
center. A forget-me-not effect in flowers
is worked out in turquoise Due Deads
with little green leaves and stem or
aluminium thread. The bow and ends OF
course. Another idea would be to have
the flowers in crystal. the leaves In steel
and the little stems in dull sod.
There is almost no end to the variety OF
ways in which pretty beads may be
made the means OF decoration. In addi-
tton TO the above mentioned ways OF
us;nu them they Inay he also used on
slippers buttons, belts, dog collars. thea
ter caps and hair bands, scarfs. dress
waists pepiums, tunics and various other
uays which viii suggest themselves to
the woman who likes to work with beads.
Evening star., 1912-03-17

which open to show tiny vanity outfit
inside, or an arrangement for coins.
These silver eggs are provided with rings
to be attached to the guard chain or
chatelaine. In the book shops there are
exquisitely bound prayer books and
hymnals, and the monogram of the re-
cipient may be stamped in gold or illumi-
mated on the white vellum covers. In the
books are bookmarks of white satin rib
bon with tiny silver crosses at the end
The hostess finds many effective de-
vices for making her Easter luncheon ap-
propriate in decoration. There are bun
ny candle shades. place cards on which
are painted in water colors spring hats
of chic design. and all sorts Of dainty
baskets and boxes to hold candies and
salted almonds. For the serving of ices
there is a charming device in the shape
of a long, slender silver tube attached to
a standard. In this tube is inserted the
stem of an Easter lily: paraffin paper
is laid inside the flower and the deep cup
is filed with ice cream or ice. Cut-up
grapefruit could also be served In this
manner Individual ices are served by
caterers in Easter bonnets of spun sugar;
or, if one prefers. little spun sugar
baskets may be used instead of tho bon
nets.
Evening star., 1912-03-17

payne and ecru coIorings which are par
ticularly fashionable this season.
With the very fashionable ones. lin
gerie materials just of clear white-in
payne and ecru-are more in favor than
white stuffs. which seem to suggest the
ministrationS of laundress. These
creamy tan shades are very subtle and
very smart. but somehow they lack the
freshness and purity of clear white which
is at its best against a background Of
summer green or the blue of summer
sea- One or two ecru batiste costumes
on a clubhouse veranda would be dis
tinguished and charming, but q whole
veranda full of ecru-garbed women
would be depressing indeed. whereas
white costumes in like number would
suggest only summery dafntiness and
freshness.
Two very smart costumes in the new
ecru tone are pictured today, and each
of these costumes owes much OF its chic
to clever touches Of black which give
character and emphasis to the tan color
ing Of fabric and trimming. One OF these
costumes is coat and skirt OF cofree-
colored linen with trimming of handsome
cluny lace dyed to match the shade of the
linen. The coffee color is very pale
cafe au lait, no deeper than q light tan
in tone, and not only the cluny lace, but
also the cotton soutache braid, which is
used as trimming, is dyed In this cafe au
lait color. The black satin collar and
groups Of black buttons add just the en-
phatic touch necessary to smartness. and
the parasol Of cream taffeta barred and
dotted with black has a carved imitation
ivory handle with a smart black silk
tassel. The hat is a roll-brim model OF
panama straw with wide pale green and
black ribbon twisted into towering loop.
X
Another pretty frock is the model of
suitable for informal dining on the coun-
try club veranda or for afternoon wear
at a tennis tournament or other out-of-
door affair in midsummer. The linen Is
very fine and soft in quality and Is in a
delicate champagne color, scarcely deep
er than cream in tone. The heavy lace
matches the linen and is applied very
simply-in straight tunic band on the
skirt and In deep square sections which
hang in bib fashion at front and back
Of the waist These sections, like the
band on the skirt, are edged with ball
fringe and the lace is backed with very
pale brown chiffon, which throws the
pattern into relief and makes a pretty
contrast with the champagne linen. The
skirt Of this champagne-colored frock is
in two sections, which lap on the sides
under rows of braid buttons and loops.
Infinitely knowing and chic is the new
neck bow of black velvet, which is fas-
tened with brooch at the front Of the
pleated cream net frill and has ends
Evening star., 1912-03-17
For the MOt0NSt.

THE special form of dowdiness with
which we used to celebrate and add
to the dreariness of a wet day is not
merely thing of the past. but has given
way to quite sumptuous ideas of suitable
apparel Weatherproof coats of silks and
satins are smart and CHEEKY, and adapted
TO eniiven the occasion.
When some of our best artists design Q
macintosh we recognize how great are
considered it's possibilities in these times.
One attractive model seen recently was
of dark corbran blue satin, quite simply
made, with remarkably wide band be.
low the waist, after the style OF a little
boys tunic suit, fastening to one side OF
the front with white pearl buttons. The
lining was especially attractive, being OF
a delightfully."- soft material in a wonder
fully vivid yet soft chalky emerald green.
This lining appeared as a facing on the
collar and cuffs.
The waterproof Of genuine rubbered
silk. lined with woolen fabric, is a nov.
city introduced for the benefit of the
motorist A beautiful model of warm red
satin was lined with navy blue serge.
That old-fashioned mixture Of simple
coioring is always pleasing. and In this
case 1t looked particularly smart. Then
there are, the black satin coats faced with
lighter contrast. A very popular wrap
is the circular satin cloak made especially
for motor wear. One is crimson, having
q yoke-shaped lining of white silk. and
trimmed with white pearl buttons Is
especially desirable. A bright Victorian
violet macintosh. fastened with gray
pearl buttons, is very cheering. Gray.
black, navy, muscatel and various other
shades are seen.
A pretty and practical motor coat has q
deep hem turned up to walking length.
and held in place by means of buttons
and loops. When these latter are un-
loosed, as the wearer of the coat is seated'
in the car. the deep hem forms a coy
covering to be tucked in around the feet.
The hem has a handsome embroidery
done on it in wool work, which forms a
very smart decoration for tile coat in its
shorter walking form. Red is popular
shade for automobile coats. Some are
made with an attractive hood to draw
over the head.
Evening star., 1912-03-17
Short Cuts for the Housekeeper

more on each side, when ii is medium
DONE
If you have an oil stove and steak
about one and one-half inches thick heat
an iron pan or skillet until 1t is almost
glowing, rub it with a lump OF fat or
suet and put the steak in it, Cover and
let it remain for two minutes. Stick the
fork near the bone, turn and allow two
minutes again. Now remove the lid, put
the steak into the oven, as near the top
as possible, and allow from four to SAX
minutes more for each side.
There is another way of cooking
steak that bestows a finer and sweeter
flavor on the meat than any other. and
that is by broiling it over a charcoal fire.
Where wood is used almost entirely Tor
cooking purposes this may be easily done.
Half fill the frebox with good hard wood.
W men the wood is well lighted and burn
ed nearly to the center check the draft
until the fire forms charcoal at a glow
ing red heat. Then open the drafts or
the stove. remove the lids, take a steak
two inches thick and broil according to
the first directions. The secret Of success
in this process lies in the proper prepa-
ration Of the bed of Goals, but the house.
wife who has wood stove and will take
the trouble to broil her steak over fire
of this kind will have rich morsel to
repay her.
Evening star., 1912-03-17
Spring Millinery.

Turned-up brims bent into any shape
most becoming to the wearer. sometimes
fiuted in front, sometimes doubled. are a
distinctive detail on the new hats. One
model is caught back at the side front
with one of the new black willow shaped
ostrich plumes.
Among the most expensive of the new
strauws is tagal with crap e-like surface.
and in a silver gray shade, with black
inside. made one of the modernized Ma
poleonic hats. This had for its trimming
wide loops of shot gray and purple rib
bon bent backward. q spray of white
crepe roses falling over the brim on the
right side.
Brush cockades of nondescript feathers
are seen as the sole adornment on fine
white taaal straw hats with black up
turned brims faced with satin, and the
floral clump of either roses, fuchsias or
copper colored dahlias is much favored
for large hats Of pedal straw with gradu-
ated up-turned brims.
Evening star., 1912-03-17

bodice. in the form of a peplum or pos
tillon. gives the effect Of a jacket; but
the smartest models of this character
have separate coats which may be re-
moved to reveal the frock beneath when
one sits down to dinner. OF course the
little coat has not a particle of real
warmth and is worn merely to add dig
nifty and elegance to the frock. A model
Of this character is illustrated today. Over
an elaborate frock of batiste and real
cluny insertion is worn a fetching little
coat of hand embroidered linen. scalloped
at the edge. The revers. also scalloped.
are underlaid with frills OF pleated lace.
The coat has no sleeves but the elongat-
ed shoulder is cut in kimono fashion and
finished like the revers. with scal!oping
and pleated lace. A wrap more dainty
and charming than this little embroidered
linen coat could scarcely be imagined
and these coats are sure to be very
popular by midsummer.
The most unostentatious frock is made
graceful and stately when a graceful
scarf is cleverly draped over 1t. Not
every woman can carry a scarf we'll
that is with ease and perfect grace; and
a scarf stiff1y and awkwardly managed is
worse than none at all. Tulle scarfs are
the fad now and yards and yards or airy
malines, wound over the arms and twisted
about the neck, give even plump wom
an an angelic, floating suggestion. But
alas for the tulle scarf that happens to
encounter a rollicking summer shower.
Much more enduring and even more
graceful are the clinging glove silk scarfs
which are embroidered in oriental effects
or small cameo patterns These scarIs
are made of the very soft. supple silk oil
which embroidered gloves are fashioned
and the coIorings are exquisite. These
scarfs, moreover, have a little warmth
and are a protection over thin lace ooo-
ices when the air grows chill after sun
set, or a mist creeps In from the sea-.
With lawn and piazza frockS the tailor
ed hat is out of the question, but one
need not necessarily choose picture nat
unless that type is becoming. There are
dashing and chic small hats intended
for wear with such costumes, and one OF
these hats is pictured-a new tam crown
model of white chip with an underbrim
facing Of black velvet and one or the
brush pompons which are made OF ostrich
and look like huge tassels pointing
straight out over one ear. Only pretty
face could stand this hat. but the
style is wonderfully smart and modern.
The picture hat trimmed with roses is
Just another variation on the eternally
feminine chapeau of this style, which al
ways will be worn because of it's be-
comingness. A fioppy brimmed shape
Evening star., 1912-03-17
HIzzmHedC25zcHee A1UDucA@
@6[S Z2acSfe~

somebody's famous dollar-a-pound bon
bons can bring to our grown-up hearts
the bliss that the bunny or the chocolate
peppermint stored hen can bring to child
hood.
This year the Easter cat vies with
Bre'r Rabbit for popular favor. The
Easter cat is white and fluffy and blue
ribboned. and it's fur is soft and furry
beyond compare. and it's feline insides
are filled with candy. but 1t is not half
SO pretty as the Dummies with their soft
placid eyes and pink-lined ears. Most
Of these Easter toys are very inexpensive
but there are costly novelties for which
one may pay as much as SO, If one is so
inclined There are huge rooSters, ten
times as big as life. with dainty French
dolls astride on their backs. driving them
with ribbon reins. From under the wings
OF Mr. Chanticler stray dozen ribbons.
Evening star., 1912-03-17
stitch so that the fabric is exceedingly
strong resembles net

stitch so that the fabric is exceedingly
strong and resembles a coarse net.
A frock of this sort, made Of white
linen, has ten inches of this drawnwork
above the hem on the skirt and above
this. separated from the first section of
drawnwork by q narrow strip Of the linen.
a three-inch band of the same trimming
Bands of the drawnwork encircle the ell
bow sleeves and run down the blouse in
panels, and all the drawnwork bands are
outlined along both edges with white
embroidered coin dots. The husband to
whom this frock was proudly exhibited
pronounced 1t exactly like a handsome
guest towel and was promptly snubbed
for his unappreciative attitude toward
modishness.
Even smarter than the guest towel
frock is a linen suit elaborated with
drawnwork which will be worn later at
country club affairs on Long Island. This
suit is built of cossack crash-a coarse,
supple crash in a creamy tone-and skirt
md coat are perfectly straight, the coat
fastening with one huge crochet button
midway Of its length. and reaching a
little below the hips all around. Three
drawnwOrk bands. each four inches vide
and spaced two inches apart, encircle the
skirt and the bottom of the coat. and
the shawl collar and cuffs of the coat are
trimmed with narrow. inset bands of
course, may not be executed on anything
but perfectly straight material.
4 4
The craze for toweling as a trimming
on summer costumes has spread past the
confines Of the tailored raiment and tow
cling is cropping out even on the lingerie
frocks intended for lawn and piazza wear.
A frock of this sort comes from Paris
and is of thin cotton crepe in pure white.
the white crepe forming a knee-length
tunic bordered with deep hem. and
simple little bodice with set-in elbow
sleeves. Now comes in the toweling.
which Is in fact the feature Of this SIM
pie little frock. The hemmed crepe tunic
falls over a petticoat fiounce OF toWelng.
and an enormous collar of the toweling,
edged with a three-inch crepe hem. falls
over the bodice. The cuffs are of the tow
cling with hens Of the crepe. At the
back, the towel-ng collar keeps on down
to the waist line where it passes under a
leather belt, and below that falls over
the skirt in pointed position. bordered
all around with the hem of crepe. Inc
leather belt at the waist line Is black
and this black note is repeated In q
chemisette of black net which shows
within the opening Of the sailor collar
Cutaway coats Of linen, lace and other
tub" fabrics are shown with charming
-frocks designed for country club and ca
sino wear Sometimes an extension OF the
Evening star., 1912-03-17

that extend to the waist line. This is
the only touch Of black on the costume.
and it is matched by the black edge on
the parasol of oriental silk in cream and
mahogany tones. The taffeta hat is de-
cidedly smart and decidedly Partisan.
It is made Of cream and gold changeable
taffeta, wound around in peaked effect.
q wreath of the tiniest silk roses in
shades of gray blue, wine red and violet
defining the brim.
Some of the summer frocks and suits
show an interesting establishment in
the way of drawn thread work, and when
this work is done by hand and the pat
tern is simple the effect Is very good in
deed-for a change. Not the intricate
Mexican stitch is used for this drawn
work trimming, but straight bands in
woven or hemstitched effects. the threads
being pulled in spaces Of four or five
inches and interviewer with knotted
Evening star., 1912-03-17
Br0iIinq a Steak.
.HE secret of the beefsteak consists
n cooking it in such a manner that

II
N cooking it in such a manner that
the blood and the rich juices stored
within the fat and the fibers of muscu-
lar tissue are not permitted to escape,
If they do. the meat is spoiled The
only way then to prevent disaster Is to
scar quickly the surface and afterward
complete the process of cooking by the
application of heat more slowly and for
a longer time.
To broil steak in a perfect way. select
either porterhouse or a sirloin two
inches thick. If you have a coal stove
see that the Goals are bright and red
Put the steak in the wire broiler, hold
it as near as possible to the Goals. scar
it quickly on one side. then turn and
scar it on the other side. Two minutes
on each side Is sufficient for this. Now
lift the steak about six inches from the
Goals, cook it for five minutes on one
side, then turn and cook it for five min
uteS on the other side. II rare STEAK
is desired 1t i. now done, for there Is
crisp crust on the outside and the inside
is red and juicy. If the steak that is
cooked by this process is to be medium
twenty minutes will be required for one
two inches In thickness A steak only
one and One-haIf lnGneS tnIch VIII re-
ouire TO more than twelve minutes. and
one thinner than this is not good Tor
broiling.
A gas oven provides an ideal instru-
ment for brCiling steak. L.sht the
oven five minutes before such steak as
the one described first is placed within
it. When the broiler is hot, put the steak
on 1t, and put i. as near to the gas lame
as possib e without touching 1t. AS soon
as the steak is scared thoroughly on one
side draw cut the pan and. sticking II
with q fork as near the edge as possible,
turn and scar the other side ailowns
from one 10 two minutes for each side.
When the Soaring s. completed, turn the
meat asain, lower the pan about six
inches from the flame and turn the burn
ers halfway down, SO that the steak
may broil slowly on each side for ABOUT
five minutes. 1t is then rare.
If YOU have no broiler and must cook
a steak In an ordinary iron pan over
coA fire, remember that in turning 1t
the fork is always to be stuck near the
bone. Have a clean hot fire and when
the pan is almost red hot drop in a piece
of suet the size of a hickory nut. Put
the meat in the pan. and, always remem-
bering that a sirloin or porterhouse two
inches thick Is being considered. let 1t
remain for three minutes for the neces-
sary soaring. Turn 1t carefully and do the
same to the other side. not permitting
it to remain any longer than three min
utes for all true epicures. Otherwise the
fat will melt and fry the steak. spoiing
it. Now put a lid under the pan and let
the steak cook slowly for seven minutes
Evening star., 1912-03-17
Mourning Dresses.

CACH season more attention Is being
Il given to mourning dresses. Sheer
black French. vo!les are made up in
simple designs for young women, with
trimmings OF pleated footing and pure
white wolfe trimmed in like manner. The
skirts are made in straight-line cut, with
successive bands Of footing made with
pleats arranged one inch apart. This
trimming is used on, the waist and sleeves
in vertical strips, slight blouse fuliness
being held in at the waist by q luster-
less silk g.Idle and sash. China silk
models in attractive designs are trimmed
with val and point d'esprit insertions.
Lrtpes Tor mourning are all of the light
weight, quality. the heavy-looking. un-
attractive mourning gowns OF the last
five seasons are now a thing Of the
past @et
Evening star., 1912-03-17
ChamP8sne Linen
and Braid Lace in the sanleShade
> The New Tam Hat
with BRUSH POrnpOn

straight, narrow skirts short enough to
reveal the feet. OF course, with all such
summer costumes white footwear is the
requirement, and this season very trim
boots of white buckskin, with all tops
sidered the grand chic. These white
buckskin boots are much prettier than the
white canvas styles, for the soft buck
skin fits instep and ankle like glove.
and the leather conforms in more sup
pie fashion to the lines of daintily shaped
sole and heel than does the stiff can
vas There are also pale tan suede
boots and creamy satin boots for wear
with lingerie costumes in the new cham