The Madison journal., 1912-11-30


ton nevertheless is set at 81, 500, and
Adrianople is probably the only place
in the Ottoman empire where popula-
tion is being estimated, for the sultan
has a pleasant habit of holding the
province governors responsible for
amounts of taxes proportionate to
population, and so these usually de-
ceive and lower the figure. Chris
tians, however, tell you that owing to
the great emigration to America the
population OF Adrianople today is not
over, If so much as, 45,200, Of which
about 10000 are Mussulmen; while
according to the Turkish estimate,
the city contains something like $4,000
Greek Orientals Greek and Bulgar
Spanish Jews, 5000 Gregorian ArmeE-
ians, 500 Catholics and Protestants,
and 100 heather gypsies.
Noted for Its Wine.
capital of a Vail ant Muteschar. or
governor and vice governor OF
princes; of a Greek archbishop. bishop
Of the Bulgar Orthodox and Bulgar
United churches, of a rabbi and
Turkish grand mullah and contains
| the headquarters of the Second Army
corps. In addition to exporting the
best wine raised In all Turkey, raw
hides, spun silk and cocoons, flour
and tanned hides, distilled perfumes.
| silks, woolens and cotton stuffs and
rich carpets go from the city in large
| quantities. So much for modern
Adrianople.
A word as to its past. The city
originally was old Uskodama, first
district capital Of Thrace; then a Ro-
man capital under Hadrian, and the
object of Goth vandalism as early as
37S. when it was wholly destroyed. In
the thirteenth century the Latin en-
peror and the Bulgarians fought a
fearful battle here, after which Adrian
ople experienced an era of peace until
about the year 1861 when the Sultan
Murad |. captured it. In 1865 he made
it his home and such 1t remained.
capital of the empire. until the fall
of Constantinople, when 1t was re-
duced to a sort of sub-capital. Since
then its career has been uneventful.
The city was taken In 1920, and here
was signed the Peace of Adrianople,
by which Russia returned to Turkey
all that she had taken away and fixed
the boundaries that remained in force
substantially until 1873. when the Rus
SLAMS re-entered the city.
This much learned, 1t was to look
up and find the guide at hand, already
ordering a cup of coffee and toast at
our expense, as is the custom. He
was a loquacious, French-speaking
Spanish Jew, and 1t behooved us to
watch keenly to bargains.
Like everyone else, we walked n
the street; through narrow cobbled
alleyways, with stores built right up
from the curb, and Jews. Moslems.
Armenians and Bulgars, and, above
all. gypsy boo blacks. each In distinc-
tive costume. Urging by. The street
led off in devious-wise, crossed and
recrossed by other mazes, until it be-
came evident that no stranger In his
senses would attempt Adrianople
alone
And yet, there was nothing to see.
touristically! A gorgeous mosque,
that was grand for size alone, save
for particulars interesting to archi-
tects only-more ratty houses. more
ratty bazaars. harems with the stove
pipes up-turned as they emerged
without; hospitals and barracks and
muddy streets-such was the city.
At four next morning we must leave
such are trade connections. We
had been content with our pilgrimage
we had seen what a stranger is per-
mitted to see of the ancient capital of
Islam!