The San Juan islander. [volume] (Friday Harbor, Wash.) 1898-1914, 1912-12-13

around street apparel, and GER
toinlv ct Is an important feature in
dress to appear well gowned in pub
ic hut the smart dresser never neg
1octs the frocks to be worn In the
house for she realizes how telling it
"a to be becomingly and .distinctively
gowned in ones own home. writes
Iaura R. Seiple in the Chicago Rec
ord.Herald Therefore the first con-
siderations in dress are the street
costumes and the evening gowns, and
offer these difficult problems are &C
comnlished, then attention can be
trrned to fascinating house gowns.
This does not mean the matinee or
npgligee, but the tea gown, which to-
day finds quite as elaborate and every
whit as expensive. If not more SO,
+bon the fashionable dinner gown,
ond often in many respects it is very
similar.
MANY of the worlds renowned de-
eignprs have gone over to draped ef-
fpcts for street wear; indeed few OF
the European houses have turned out
ANYTHING but draped styles of one kind
or another. And in many of the great
establishments the normal waist line
and even the elongated waist line re-
ceiyes much attention, but the raised
waist line is by no means discarded,
and many sumptuous models are
shown with decidedly short waist On
street. costumes the ceinture is IN
dicated by a false girdle or belt, which
in MANY instances furnished the deco
ratiye feature of the coat. All sorts Of
original ideas are thus expressed, and
with excellent results. Sometimes the
lengthened waist line is suggested In
the same way.
White Velvet for the Street.
One of the handsomest street cos
tunes brought out by one of New
Yorks importers who has copied and
idealized a large number of exclusive
models, is a gown very simple in line,
yet superlatively gorgeous, being
made as it is Of white velvet. The
silhouette of the model is similar to
those which have been familiar during
the past year, cut straight back, the
left side closes over the right in a
rounded corner, leaving the slightly
plated underskirt in view at the bot
tom. Ornate white buttons set with
single brilliant hold the corner in
place. In the front cleverly arrang-
ed white satin sash starting from un-
der the front of the Medici collar and
falling down the left front of coat and
skirt to the knee The scarf is held
fiat by straps of velvet and small but
tons
Indications point to an unprecedent-
ed year Of velvet. Velvets of all kinds
are popular, but the brocades and
embossed patterns are the novelties
most priced, and lovely effects are be-
Ing developed with them. The en-
bossed velvet designs on chiffon or
messaline or on metallic gauze are
particularly beautiful and lend them
selves charmingly to drapery effects.
great deal is being done with black
velvet embossed on cloth of gold and
blue on cloth of silver. Some won
oerfully gorgeous gowns in these SUI
peru brocades. combined with plain
velvet are being exhibited at the
smart houses, and so we'll are the en-
Dossed fabrics taking that it is al
most impossible to obtain even short
lengths of the choice patterns in the
shops
One-Tone Effects Popular.
Iaupe one-tone effects are extreme
y popular in these delectable mate
rlals and some of the smartest after
noon gowns are developed in taupe
'eIVet embossed messaline madeup
WIN plain taupe velvet or satin and
renewed by cascades of lovely soft
lace. The various taupe shades are
surprisingly effective and generally
becoming, but often relieving colors
are employed with taupe, certain
SHSoes OF red or old rose being the
4uOSt successful One also sees deep
U'dhge with taupe, but this combina-
HOA IS only for the brunette to whom
OuInI orange is becoming. The new
-eoS mat are being favored lust now
aIe excellent with all the fashionable
.Iole and brown tones, as well as with
--o heavier shades of taupe.
some exceedingly pretty models in
tVIuuroy and heavy velvet. not unlike
,HoSe IN wool, are modish and charm
s lor street wear. A lovely little
9l, IN deep rose corded velvet was
IlSniy complimented with it's under
sl lll OF black satin bordered with
Cd d0Ih 1ur' and it's caunningly arrang-
~. 'AirI plaits The fancy coat was
W. qulte long at the back with cut
hs! fronts and satin waistcoat en-
bo o,uered with red and gold. The
ro an collar and long tight sleeves
w.. nnlshed with a band of fur cor
NJ 'p ~ with that on the bottom
tr,. Tue skirt. The high, close collar
w. iileo with line of fur is becom-
slso lnore and more popular, as are
ish o the long close-fitting sleeves fin
eu IN the same manner.
odd Designs Give Variety.
.r nOat tails, long or short, square or
nsrt eu and belts or odd ornaments