davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
REVIVAL OF 1880
STYLES In PARIS
Pannier Effects in Black and White
Veritable Triumphs of Dame
Fashion.

Paris April S-Easter Monday, the
great fete day Of the French. was a
veritable triumph for black and white
in the fashions. All wild efforts to con-
QUer good taste by bold contrasts in
livid coIors was blocked to-day by the
elegance and simplicity Of the gowns in
black and white, which caused a uni
versaI verdict in favor Of somber colors.
The most choice gowned women in
Paris to-day appeared in black and
white and made the freak combinations
that the ultradesigners tried to foist
upon the public look common and in
artistic
At the races at Longchamps. black
and white predominated to such an ex-
tent as to make other colors look alb
solutely common and out OF place
After the races crowds OF the best
dressed women fiocI1ed to ArnenonvilIe.
where the effect was almost a SYM
phony in black and white.
The most choice. and at the same time
the most simple costume. and one
Of the most admired. was a black fan
tasy in taffeta. including a short jack
ct artistcally arranged and corded, max
ing panel effect The skirt was made
entirely small. with side pIeats Of gIace
taffeta with pannier front and trimmed
with buttons at the back The whole
dress Is in the style OF 1850. the odd cord
ed seams making a most artistic effect.
Ths hat was exceedingly small, OF mar
Quise shape, crushed into the most ar
tistic form, and trimmed in back with
four fancy aigrettes, two black and two
white, arranged perpendicularIy.
Sailor Collars Fetching.
Another black and white costume much
'admtred was made directoire style, with
a large sailor collar of white, with huge
white revers that seemed lost in drapery
under the arms. The short sleeves were
finished with small pun and lace at
the elbows. The white satin skirt. with
a black satin overskirt, was draped most
uniquely. \ large turned-down sailor hat.
trimmed entirely around the brim with
white aigrettes. with n band of solid
black and white aigrettes placed closely
together. completed the costume.
Opposed to the conquest Of black and
white. the most eccentric gown noted
was a very bright corduroy made direc-
toire with corded seams bound in black
velvet, trimmed with loudly contrasting
embroidery of wooden worSted, with a
huge lingerie fiuted low collar and an
immense sailor bow OF black velvet
The Whole costume was decorated IN the
most irrational way with box pleats
The skirt had two patch pockets in front,
giving II n decided mannish effect. The
hat was a black straw with the rim
trimmed with white plumb and the
crown adorned with a low lying white
plume.
The hats worn show that the tendency
will be to use more silk than straw,
thus affording an opportunity to match
costumes better.
Another hat much admired was a direc-
toire black with a white cock plume
standing erect and the front decorated
with two white heads OF birds.
The entire day was a revival OF the
styles Of lS0. Pannier Greats wera
much in evidence, but mostly modified.
the use OF soft hanging materials over
coming TO a large extent the general
objection to the balloon effects OF the
harder materials.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
BY FRANCES SNAPPER.

In large employment agencies where
classes and masses get together for a
brief season there are many strange
lights thrown upon human nature.
And there in that mixed gathering, the
experienced dispensers Of places" learn
TO estimate. fairly accurately, the kind
of homes to- which they are sending girls
and women. and the measure OF the re-
auirements.
Ard do you know one of the most re-
vealing of all the lights?
These agencies tell us that when an ap-
plication comes in for "a good strong
woman" they know what may be ex-
pected.
Long experience has taught them that
what is wanted by these applicants is
not normal worker, a woman like
themselves, who grows weary even as
they and is human just the same, but
creature Of iron, nerveless. untiring and
long-suffering.
Conditions should BE Bettered.
We hear good deal about the condi-
tions under which women work in fac
tories. their long hours. exacting labor
and hardships which slowly drain from
them the best of their womanhood. and
we say that for their own good and the
he passed regulating their hours, de-
fning their Iabors. and bettering their
conditions generally.
But that is not all.
Do you realize that In the home the
working hours of women wage earners
sometimes begin at in the morning and
end at Z or at night? When conditions
are easier. from to is the schedule,
sometimes with rest periods, often no
from the DrPss 0f dutips
There are some women who have no
conception of what it means to work
from sun to sun"-and woman's work is
longer than that, you know. Housework
to them means just comfortable living.
and the machinery of home runs easily
because it is the business of their work.
ers TO make things smooth They toll
not. neither do they spin.' but they are
the few, the very few.
The rest, by far the majority of
women in the home, know what II means
to start from the beginning and carry
the burden Of every detail OF work. They
know it IL they are in the class Of women
who employ no help: and they learn II,
quickly enough, if they have just one,
even two maids, for sooner or later the
time comes when they are left to carry
the work on alone.
Then it is recognized as ''too much.
altogether too heavy for one woman"
And what of the one maid?
Backs Break Under Excessive Loads
Sometimes it seems easy to fall into
the notion that because women must
labor at housework, factory work or
other toiIsome pursuits, somehow their
backs grow peculiarly fitted to their
work-burdens, and that because they are
accustomed TO toll, they have grown diff
ferent or perhaps they were born Diff
ferent.
But the hard part OF it Is that backs
do not grow used to excessive loads; they
simply break under the undue strain, and
new workers are found. good. strong
women" who serve as long as they will
or can
Figure II out-from z to or from to s,
as II happens. And women who have
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
LITTLE THINGS THAT
ARE WORTH KNOWING

Camers hair and red sable brushes
that have gotten out of shape or curled
can be restored to their proper form by
dipping first into hot and then into cold
water.
To make individual chicken. pies, line
gem pans with pastry, leaving crust
enough to fold over a tablespoonful OF
rich chicken hash, and bake in a quick
oven.
If the cake hayoring has been forgotten
when making the batter try sprinkling
the required amount over the cake as 1t
stands in the pan before baking.
II brooms are to sweep clean they must
be washed occasionally and freed from
dust and dirt. To two quarts of warm
water add four tablespoonfuls OF house.
hold ammonia Stand the brooms in this
for a half hour. Rinse in cold water and
hang in the sun to dry. House brushes
of any variety may be washed in this
manner.
Lovely separate blouses of velvet and
chiffon are displayed One of white bro
sleeves fashioned of black mousseline de
sole
A blouse of dark blue satin Is embroid-
cred with scarlet silk. The design Is ar
ranged to form yoke. Small buttons.
of scarlet silk are used as trimming.
The small draped toaue retains Its pop
ularity. One OF white velvet has a long
white quill edged with seal placed at
jaunty angle to the left side.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
CAUSE OF THE GROWING
EXODUS FROM KITCHENS

tried 1t in their own homes are quite well
aware that the hours do not .'go by with
a song"
How, then. can women employers of
women consistently protest al the long.
killing hours at which women are asked
TO work in factories. laundries and other
places where conditions are hard?
II is hot a problem easy OF solution
and one is not ready 70 offer any real
answer, but this much can be said
Tighten Duties.
II hours begin at and end at land
they rarely are better than that-do not
crowd them too heavily with duties. for
that is long work period for any woman
10 maintain seven days in the week. with
a single afternoon to herself. or, at best
two.
And one thinks that II women en-
ployers in the home made comparisons
with hours and conditions in the in
dustrial world they would not wonder
quite SO much why there is a growing
exodus from the kitchen.
Some time-just how or when one can
not say-there will be a, better arrange
ment. Perhaps it may come by way
of training in domestic science on one
hand and a better ork-apportionment
on the other.
But, meanwhile. let us remember that
there is social dividing-line. witt some
away up and come away down. and
that there are all the differences that
wealth and poverty can make. but when
it comes 10 physical endurance there are
no sharp contrasts, except those imposed
by nature.
And 1t is Just as wearing to a paid
employe TO toll all day at hard work
as 10 delicately nurtured woman, for
the deIicacy frequently is not in the
physical structure. but in the training.
and the measure of wealth which makes
it possible TO follow the easier. softer
ways.
Things get sadly mixed sometimes,
and the good, strong woman" is found
in the halls of ease, her delicately built
sister in the workadsy world. And 1t
seems the part of the gentlewoman to
help in the adjustment, as best she can.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
THE SERIOUS COST OF
KEEPING UP APPEARANCES

Life is an awful struggle" said a
worried-looking middle-weight woman
to her uncle who was visiting her. but
fell that the children simply must be
in good society. All that their father
and 1 can afford to give them, aside
from a fair education, is the social
standing we have attained after work.
ing so many years"
She spoke complacently, regarding as
nothing the sacrifices they had made to
live in a so-called good neighborhood"
and TO get their children into what she
termed the "best society" Of the little
city.
We'll said the blunt old uncle.
what you call the best society in the
town is not the best, after all, because
il is mostly composed of persons who,
like yourself. If must say so, are Iiv-
ing under false pretenses for the sake
of show, and who have sacrificed the
most vital things in life to attain this
position"
The woman was aghast, but the uncle
continued:
"I tell you plainly. Emma, that people
who live in debt year after year, keep
ing the butcher. the baker, the washer
woman, and every one else waiting FOR
y.
things which will do them harm all
their lives"
But interrupted his niece, what do
you call the best society then, IL you
say our children are not in it?''
"The hest society in my town." an
swered the old gentleman. SIS made up
Of men and women who are honest be-
fore there are anything else, and who
hold truth, honor, and justice above dis
play and fnery. You and your family
would be Infinitely happier and richer
II you would cease struggling to live
in a position your means do not war
rant. It is a false notion TO suppose
that duty TO your children requires any
such sacrifices. On the contrary, your
duty to them forbids your going into
debt and making your creditors wait
for their Just bills. Pay your debts
promptly and live within your means,
and you will find that there is joy in
such living as debt-burdened persons
never know"
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
Proper Care Of Hair
and Complexion

Cleanliness of the scalp means every
thing in growing and preserving a
beautiful head of hair, as only from a
clean scalp will healthy hair grow. BY
canthrox dissolved in cupfuI of hot
water, immaculate cleanliness results;
scalp discomfort and dandruff are re-
moved instantly. the hair dries quickly
and takes on a most admirable fiufi-
ness and luster without any tendency
to become streaky, brittle or harsh
Any woman who uses a spurmax To-
tion instead of face powder Will have
no occasion to complain of a shiny nose
or sallow, oily skin. This wonderful
skin-whitener and complexion-beGutI-
fer is best made by dissolving 4 ounces
of spurmax in 4 pint witch hazel Cor
hot water) then adding teaspoonfuls
glycerine. II does not show when on,
nor does II rub of as easily as powder,
and It keeps the skin smooth and fIesh.
and pratects II from ehapping.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
The Girl in Her Teens.

The young girl in her teens is proven
bIaIly difficult 10 dress, but very OFTEN
the simplest and most sensible solution
of the difficulty is to copy mother and to
adhere to the tailOr-made.
The fine stripes that are so fashionable
make very suitable schoolgirl costumes
especially In the vague black and gray
stripes that are now worn. The skirt Is
cut simply with an apron back and
front fastened down by large buttons OF
the material; the coat is short and sim
pie or double breasted without trimming
but with the collar faced with gray vel
vet.
Matching the costume. the hat should
be of gray beaver, with Just one touch
of color, a cerise feather.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
Orange Cream.

Select oranges of good shape and cut a
thick slice from the end or eacn In such
way as to leave a strip which win
serve as a handle. Scoop out the pulp.
and squeeze. Mix the juice with three
times as much sugar and three times as
much milk and freeze. The baskets are
packed in ice and salt until needed. Then
they are wiped dry, filled with the orange
cream, and arranged for service either
individually or grouped on platter.
Garnish with bit of green.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09

get up their own parties are showing
a great preference for simple spring
flowers, such as jonquils. tulips In All
colors and Japanese ounce boughs. The
flower decorations for a debutante's
dance are always in pink and white
even though the girls dress may be
pale blue or pure white, or whatever
the color OF her bouquet A delicate pink
rosebud. called by some florists the
debutante," is much used, however. for
her personal nosegay.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
CAPITAL WELL REPRESENTED.
Number of washinstonIans VIII
Address Christian Congress.

Address Christian Congress.
Washington win be represented in the
Christian Conservation Congress, TO be
held in New York. April 10 to q. By a
number of laymen and ministers. Those
who have already registered for the con-
ference are william Knowles Cooper.
Percy s. Foster. Holcombe @. johnson.
Lawrence r. Lee. Norton NJ. Little.
Donald c. Macleod. Charles F. Nesblt.
F. ]. Nichols. Edward c. Taring. Walter
s. Unord. J. Milton Waldron. and W.
W. warwick.
Among the prominent leaders Of the
church who will speak at the Congress
are Ambassador Bryce. J. A. Mcdonald
of the Toronto Globe, Hon. william
Jennings Bryan. Bishop David H Greer.
DR.. Nehmiah Boynton, John Mitchell and
DR.. John R. Mott
Three Washington men have been des-
ignated as members OF commissions
which are to report upon church unity,
the rural church. and permanence Of
the message. They are DR.. Randolph
H. McKim. Rector OF the Church OF
the Epiphany. willett NJ. Hays. Assls-
tant Secretary OF Agriculture, and Will
lam Knowles Cooper. Second Vice Presi-
dent Of the Men and Religion Forward
Movement for washington-
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
TRIED DRECIPESSENT
BYHERALD READERS
Send Your Favorite Recipe to This
Department.
MacaroOn Jelly.

The macaroons used in making this
Jelly must be three or four days old and
thoroughly dry, so they can be powdered.
Take gelatin enough TO make a quart Of
jelly according to directions given on the
package. Put in 4 cup and soak in cold
water, enough TO cover IL, until 1t be-
comes soft. Take four tablespoonfuls of
cocoa, mix with q cup of white sugar.
dissolve in a cupful of boiling water, then
add sufficient quantity Of boiling water
70 make a quart in all, and let the cocoa
boil gently for fifteen or twenty minutes
Take a dozen macarOons and crush to
powder on bread board with rolling pin.
When the gelatin Is softened sufficiently
put il in a dish large enough to hold
comfortably all the ingredients. and pour
on il the boiling cocoa. Stir thoroughly
and when the gelatin is completely dis
solved set away to cool. When jelly be-
gins 10 stiffen. take the whites of two
eggs and beat them to stiff froth.
Beat them into the jelly, adding to it
the powdered macaroons, and set away
to harden. Serve with whipped cream
sweetened to taste with one or two-tea-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar.
II preferred, a small quantity of the
powdered macaroons may be saved and
mixed with the whipped-ci cam. Also. IL
one prefers TO serve the jelly with cream
and sugar, smaller quantity of sugar,
about three-ouarters OF a cup, may be
used in the making.
Squash Biscuits.
one-half cup of squash Csteamed and
sifted). IA cup Of sugar, 1-2 teaspoonfuI
of salt. 1-2 cup Of scalded milk, IA of a
yeast cake dissolved in IA cup of luke
warm water. IA cup of butter, 21-2 cups
Of flour. Add squash. sugar, salt, and
butter to hot milk. When lukewarm add
dissolved yeast cake and -four Cover,
let rise overnight. In morning shape into
biscuits. let rise and bake.
Chocolate Cake.
one-third of cup OF butter, IL cup OF
sugar. egg and yolk Of another, I-2 cup
OF milk, - curs OF flour, I teaspoonfuI
OF SODA Melt squares chocolate. add
IL cup sugar and Ia cup of milk, stir
until smooth and add to cake mixture
Make frostinE with the other white of
egg, powdered sugar and little vanilla.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
Home Treatment for
Sallow. Wrinkled Skin

A. c. F. asks: What should do for
my saliow complexion. and how can /
get rid OF my wrinkles?
Sallowness is best removed by re-
moving the skin itself. This is ef-
fectually accomplished by the use of
ordinary mercolized wax, which causes
the offensive outer skin gradually 10
peel of, in fine particles scarcely no.
ticeable TO the naked eye. Within a
week or so you will have an enviable
complexion, the new skin exhibiting a
healthful youthful tint Incompatible
with artificial coloring. Get an ounce
OF this wax at your drug store, apply
rub IL in. Wash it OF in the morning
with warm water.
For your wrinkles try a solution of
saxolite, one ounce, dissolved In a half
pint witch hazel. Battle your face IN
this every morning for q while. The
result VIII surprise yeus
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
Save Broken Eggs.

II an egg is accidentally broken. and
you have no immediate use for IL, beat II
thoroughly, spread on a plate and allow
1t to dry. The next time that you use
your meat grinder put this through first,
Put 1t away to use in settling coffee. II
IS ore of the greatest helps on a camp
ing trip. and an item Of economy in the
home. as in this way one egg will answer
for three days.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
New Bags for Old.

leather bags. Cover these with velvet,
muy some heavy silk cord for handle,
long or short, as you prefer, and you
have a stylish and pretty bag. Either
paste or sew the velvet on. L sewed
mine, and have found 1t satisfactory.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09

IF mushrooms are TO be used for tim
bales or sauces, one will find the cans
Of stems and pieces just as good and
somewhat cheaper than ths whols mush-
gooms. :
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09

Something entirely new in apron build
ing is here presented. and the woman
who likes odd things will welcome the In
novation. The simplicity of the style is
at once apparent and the ease OF its con-
struction quickly seen The apron Is cut
from one yard OF material Linen, per-
Gale or gingham can be used.
The pattern. No. $50, Is cut in one size
and requires one yard of 36-inch material.
The rattern can be obtained by sending
10 cents to the Office of this paper.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09

When boiling your cabbage or cauIi-
flower, drop a piece of breadcrust in the
saucepan. This VIII counteract the odor
70 a great extent and VIII prevent II
from being didased thrpREh the -hanze.
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09
In Case of Large Affair.

Many hostesses omit the announce
ment OF names. but II the function is
a large affair, this is a mistake, as Il
is quite easy for the hostess to over
look arrivals il the room is at all
crowded.
The hostess does not stand close to the
door, but well away from IL. so as not
to interfere with arrivals and exits, and
to each newcomer she offers her hand in
welcome and says a few cordial wor1s
expressive of her pleasure. II she has
daughters, they assist her In receiving,
The Washington herald., 1912-04-09

II Is quite the thing for fashionable
folk to give fine balls or dances for
young people Immediately after Easter.
and IL there is bride in the family
the function may be given as compile
ment TO the newly married couple. This
anair is sometimes called a brides
dance and on such occasions IL is
quite in keeping for the newly welded
one to wear her bridal gown. with the
exception Of the ven and orange bios
SONS, or, course. !, Debutantes are also
sometimes honored in this way. or the
affair may be given for a young lady
visiting a family in the social swim. II
the occasion Is In honor OF any particu-
lar person, the lady so complimented
takes rank with the hostess In receiv-
ing.
A private ball or dance OF any degree
Of smartness is conducted with a good
deal OF form in the matter OF the house
arrangements. An awning and carpet
extended from the street 10 the house
door A man in livery opens the doors
OF the vehicles that arrive and gives to
the guests and their coachmen dupli-
cate checks on which are numbers by
which the carriages and automobiles
may be summoned when wanted.
The house door Is opened by a man in
buffers livery, who states the location
OF the cloak rooms to the guests of both
sexes, the ladies' dressing-room and the
gentlemen's may be on different floors,
but as soon as the man removes his
wraps he goes 10 the foot of the stairs
and there waits for the lady he has
escorted to the house. The two go to-
gether in the ballroom, but never
arm in arm; their names are announced
at the door by a man in livery and the
lady then enters a step In advance OF
her escort. Even with a small dance,
where IIveried servants and awnings
and street carpets are not used. this
method of entrance is correct, II not
absolutely necessary.
, 1912-08-01
Death Of Ex-Governor William A. Richard.

The news of the death of Ex-Governor William A. Richards came
like a blow in the face to every man who knew and loved him during
his long and honorable public career. From the early period of his
coming West his interests seemed to be identified with Wyoming and,
in a public capacity, when required to do 30, he served with ccnscien.
ton zeal. No man could ever say that he was a double dealer, or
that he ever evaded or shirked the issue, no matter how hard or Bit
or ne oea he as a interesting man. He always spoke
the truth frankly to friend and foe and he had such q fund of anec-
dote and such an interesting way with him that he was never tire
some o dull. The untimely death of his daughter Edna and her
husband and the mystery surrounding their taking Of was a severe
blow to that heart of oak and there is no doubt but what his early
death was due in a large measure to the great grit" he felt over the
death OF his little daughter. Physically he was large and strong
and as years &c he was comparatively young-only SO. He died
too soon. One feels like saying with Macbeth when informed of
the death of his queen: "She should have died hereafter-there
would have been a time for that And SO with II esteemad fr;snd
he should have died hereafter; there would have been time for that
But he left au indellible impress on the history of Wyoming in whose
welfare he had 30 much interest and whose people he loved and SER
we'd with such signal honor. Nav YOU rest in peaeel