Evening star., 1912-11-03

dull, lifeless hues or assumes economical
black for the residue of her natural ex-
istence. Now. black may be interesting
or non-interesting. according to what It's
fabric Is and how that fabric is fash
ioned. 1t has to be very interesting. IN
deed, to look well on the woman whose
natural physical charms have faded Yet
it is the standby of most aging women
because it offers an easy solution or the
troublesome color problem and because 1t
is so economical.
There are many shades which are very
becoming after fifty, but they are not the
vivid shades that make for snartness and
chic in youth. Cerise should be avoided
as the plague-bright green's also. Like
wise yellows and browns. After the hair
has turned gray brown should not be
worn at all. although the woman who
has brown eyes and dark bfowS may
sometimes venture upon pale yellows.
H blues are becoming: prunes and
,, ms orc almost invariably sc and there
are certain shades of rich, soft green
which are charming when used sparing
ly. A very Smartly dressed woman in
the Astor corridor the other afternoon
were tailored suit of black and white
a suggestion on the black surface. and
with this black and white suit went a
black and white chiffon blouse. white
gloves. trim patent leather boots with
buttoned cloth tops-stnd black velvet
toque with a willow green ostrich feather
a one side. That one touch of green,
soft and subdued though the color was.
made the whole costume individual and
chic. and the pretty green feather har-
monized well with the iron-gray hair and
dark eyes of it's wearer.
The color standbys of the woman over
fifty, however, are black and white-a
very different matter from all black, and
certain shades of gray Smoke and pearl
grays are usually flattering to middle
age. Gun metal is always distinguished
when represented in handsome materials
Taupe is possible sometimes. and when
the complexion is still fair and the hair
gray or white blue-lavenders may be
combined happily with the gray cos
tunes. The evening gown pictured is
most distinguished harmony in gray,
black and white tones, and while essen
TALLY simple in line. has the dignity and
distinction that are proper. The trailing
skirt is of black charmeuse and is grace
fully draped about the feet. the tip of
dainty black kid buttoned boot peepins
from under The soft draperes. This
question of length in the older woman's
dress is vital one.
Too short a gown will rob the stateliest
woman of dignity and after fifty all in
door and formal costumes should have
skirts as long as can be worn with conl-
fort. II is much better to have the gown
drag all around and lift it slightly with
the hand Is one walks than to have it
escape the floor by an inch or tWo-So far
as grace and dignity are concerned.
Over the black charmeuse skirt OF the
evening gown under consideration is drop
ped tunic of dark gray chiffon e1nbroid-
cred with white jet-just now immensely
fashionable. The bodice is of tucked gray
chiffon over three layers of white net
and at back and front a corselet of rich
white yenise lace. yelled by black net,
rises over the tucked chiffon bodice.
! fuckers of flesh colored net veiled with
white lace are set into the decolletage at
front and back.
The hairdressing picture with this even
| ing gown for a woman of fifty is worthy
of note. 1t is perfectly simple in ar
rangement yet is in reality most exquis-
| itely arranged-as the older woman's hair
| must be to get a graceful effect. Gray
| hair is seldom as plastic as more youth
| full hair. 1t crimps and friZZes instead
| of waving softly and it refuses to spring
| UP huffily, preferring to stick to the
scalp or stand out in unpleasant strings
| or wisps. Frequent shampoos with a
| pinch of bicarbonate of soda in the water
| will help to keep the gray hair fluffy and
| lustrous-which means that the white
threads are clean and gleamng-and daily
| brushing will reduce the obstinate locks
| to order and make them take the posi-
| tions desired. After the hair has be-
| come gray powder may be used Plentiful
| ly in it without showing and this helps
| to make it appear thicker and more fluffy.
| The coiffure in the picture has been well
powdered and brushed and then turned
over a soft natural hair rat all around
without waving or curling. AT the back
is large, soft psyche knot matched to
the natural gray hair and jeweled comb.
While the mature figure invariably
looks better in a one-piece gown which
gives unbroken lines, the blouse is the
only alternative with coat and skirt
suit Unless the woman Of fifty has an
extremely slender, youthful figure. she
should Danish the thought of separate
white blouses, for no woman of middle
age and eTAbonpoint can hope to be dig
nified, charming or graceful in dark
skirt and white waist White may be
added about the neck and down the
| front of the dark waist, however, and
this is easy to accomplish just now when
contras sting vests and neckwear are so
fashionable. The separate blouse pic
tured on the seated figure shows how
white can be combined with dark fabric
very pleasingly This blouse accompa-
nies a coat and skirt suit of plum -colored