New-York tribune., 1912-05-26
White Satin No Longer the
Only Fabric Deemed
Eit for a Bride.
Paris. Ma" O.

Paris MAY o.
IN the selection Of her Wedding gown tee
t-ide Of to-day is permitted as wide Q
choice as in the other departments of Eeg
wardrobe. and the traditional white satin
is often set aside in favor Of voile, mousse
hne dc sole or crspe de chine. all ma
terials Of exquisite softness. When satin is
still preferred. quality as soft as possible
II secured a recent bride. Of extreme
youth. with ideas Of her own on the sub
tect Of her gowns, selected for her wedding
toilet soft white satin. which was made
M into a simple able gown, buttOned
from throat to hem with large. satin-cov-
cred buttons, the sash being edged with
white silk fringe. short Empire lace veil
"A family treasure-was bound to the
blond head 10y a garland Of orange blos-
SONS Below the hem Of the short skirt
one glinpsed lace stockings and satin
shoes with high Louis XIV heels. a sweet
little maid OF honor Of ten years wore a
little frock copied exactly from that of the
bride In place OF the veil her charming
head was covered with a close bonnet Of
white lace. tied under the chin with big
bow Of rose pink ribbon.
gown there was no lack of splendid gown
Inc in the corteCe. from rich silk tailored
costumes TO trailing skirts OF softer textures,
worn with 18th century habit coats open
over waists of rich brocaded silks; hlmy
lace iabots filed the space above the waist
coats and wide lace frills covered half the
hands. Many Of these skirts seemed COM
posed Of one wide breadth draped about the
figure and crossed in front, leaving an open
space at the hem. showing the feet TO the
ankles. This is mode we have become so
accustomed 10 ii eXcites no comment.
costume with three-hOunced lace
skirt and a tiny jacket Of colored SILK, cut
off short and square in front with one long
end attached TO il at the back by cluster
of shIrrings, was exquisitely quaint on a
slender little woman, and equally charm
Ing was a costume OF dull blue SILK
sprinkled with pompadour flower bouquets.
It's sole ornamentation was wide Louis
XIII lace collar and high, turned up lace
cuffs belonging to the same period.
Simple fashions gain extreme effectiveness
from a clever touch-a bow Of vivid color,
a belt or sash. and bright colored woollen
embroidery are used in the embellishmen'
OF every sort Of material The white skirt
Of a daring costume worn at recent race
was embroidered TO the knees with colored
woollen flowers, and was topped "lth 4
short coat Of purple taffetas; the strongest
shade OF color used in the embroidery
new silk material. closely resembling
poplin. but much softer, is used in tho
production Of the lates: tailored costumes
The skirts, close hung IN front and on th'
sides, are provided with fiat pleats In tn'
middle of the back, or pleats concealed
under fat panels, visible only in walking.
While the tight skirt which compete,
the wearer 10 a mincing gait is no longer
worn by smart people. IL is quite true tha'
women have I'D TO this moment refused
TO accept full skirts, while panniers me
with cold reception from the great ma
jority Of women. When a skirt of sof
material is not draped. IT is generally com
posed OF straight breadths. measuring
about two yards in width. gathered intt
the belt. II a little more fulness is neces
sary at the hem it is gained by rounded
arch in the middle of the front
A most fascinating finish. seen on gowr
Of blue and white striped taffeta, was
large Louis XIII collar OF perfectly plair
white linen frlled with white null; undei
the chin it turned into shape. and was
'evet ribbon. On the long tght sleeve
were cuffs 10 match. Accessories or thl'
sort are wonderfully knowing, but tGer all
OF extreme simplicity is delusiYe, for they
can only be procured at the great houses
When ordered as accomplishments TO spe-
cia gown. Never do they appear in the
shops. But surely women clever with
needle and helped by old fashion plates can
experiment till success is reached at little
expense.
Cotton materials will be largely In use
the coming summer, but In weave they are
generally confined 70 voiles, crepons ano
corded materials. Stripes predominate, but
are varied by different arrangements OF
spots. The corded cotton stuffs and piQues
Will enter largely into the composition OF
tailored costumes Nearly everything
shows BIT Of color. on thin white cotton
stuffs colored woollen embroidery is liked,
end applications OF colored flowers. cut
from the old-fashioned toile de Jouey ano
toile de Vichy; incrustatons OF embroidery
are liked also on these thin stuffs. In white
and color. A pretty dress of cream colored
cotton yoile had a thread OF bright cerise
hennming each one Of the cluster tucks
q the bottom Of the skirt; the color was
eArrisd into the eorsaEe by little en-