Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1912-12-19
fancy fll0ls AND fAV|olRlIIllE FASHIONS


NEW YORK, Dec. 19-The recent
opening OF the social season when
wu3 ushercd In by the horse SHOW ana.
close upon its heels. the opening OF
the operate season, has given ample
o%Dbortunlty to study the present types
al evening costumes MS at the
striking features seems 10 De the
great vogue OF costumes In com
binations OF white and silver and whlte
aad crystal.
The white frocks vary in character
Some OF the hahdsomest are IN white
anC silver Orocade trimmed Win
white silver lace and fur. One stuhh.
ing frocn seen the other night was OF
white violet brocade on q silver
foundation, an amazingly suppis
material draped in cliaging lines ana
showing a petticoat OF fine lace
where the narrow pointed train drag
ged away from slashed sides. The
bodies was almost entirely OF the hne
lace laid over flesh color tulle, but
the sleeves yer wlsps OF silver tuile.
Crystal trimming, or at least cry
stal on the popular form or brilliantS
set on IL single lines or in chaihs' -
more often used upon the toilettes OF
young women than upon the elaborate
costumes of tnaturer matrons. the
briiliants used in motifs of loose chain
effect are it their best made double.
That Is. two b%rilliants are set to-
gether back to back and the result Is
q greatly enhanced effectiveness.
emhroiderles OF tiny crystal bugles are
used extensively. Not, bands ana
trimmings. OF crystal heads are also
popular. and one sees some crystal
fringes although only occasionally.
The crystal beaded tulle. which both
in white and in black is well liked.
figures very considerably in one way
or another among the opera frocks.
Most often the black and white are
combined. after the fashions exploited
by Worth and Drecoll and there are
some hansome and practical frocks
in which the drapery and train are OF
black velvet embossed or silver gauZe
or black chiffon, while the underskirt
is OF the thickly beaded tulle, black or
white or black and white.
Perhaps the most distinctive feature
of the new evening frocks. aside from
occasional vagaries of skirt drapery
and train, is the free use or moving
sleeve %draperies akin to the 1leeves
OF olden times. This idea 1t developed
in innumerable ways, but all have
more or less the same effect, and the
effect is usually a charming one'
though occasionally the designer
h(ngles the thing and achieves a
sleeve drapery quite out OF tune with
the other lines OF the frOck.
Often this so-called sleeve drapery
covers the front of the arm at all or
merely lines like a soft shadow across
the shoulder point and a few inches
OF the arm below it, but back OF the
shoulder line the lace or tulle grace
fully, forming a background for the
arm and giving long, gracious lines to
the back of the frOck. Sometimes !.
descends only to the girdle sometimes
it falls almost to the floor or looses it
self in some clever way among the
skirt drapelies.
The idea of sleeves contrasting in
material is not new this season, but
finds new expressions Of 1t in some
Of the opera gowns. One beautiful
gown Of black velvet and rare old
lace, for example. had the left side OF
the bodies and close short sleeve OF
the lace plainly and clingingly fitted,
while '5n1 the right side the velvet ran
up d~iagonally to a polly from under
which rose = drapery Of black tulle
that crossed the shoulder and fell IN
a loose flowing drapery over the arm
This drapery was bordered by a