Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-08-11

year that Is beltless. and though the belt
may pass only half way around the coat,
or even be but a strap held down by but
tons at front and back 1t always gives
a suggestion Of tho fitted effect
To return to the Paris suit which is
one Of the most Interesting models on to-
days page; the black and white velveteen
coat Is worn over q new pieated skirt.
which-as the picture shows-does not
convey the slightest suggestion Of fullness
or flare at the bottom These new pleated
skirts are vertically works Of art; for they
hang as straight and slim as any hobble
affair Of last winter. yet require almost
twice as much fabric in their making. the
skirt is pleated only at one side, and over
the pleats at back and front laps the
plain side of the skirt. me pleas are re
also carefully taped unoerneaIh =.
prevent them from haring toward the
foot. If you have passed the thirty-year.
mark you remember the tapped pleats OF
twenty years ago. A tape was tachea
around the skirt, INSIDE the 1nrsl eo - ~.
each pleat being sewed to 1t. These tapes
are being placed six or eight tnches apart
all the way down the new skrts ana the
most exuberantly pleated skirt Is held IN
az demure lines Of straightness as any
hobble affair of less than two-yard width
The tiny machine pleating, or accordion
pleating. as it is sometimes called IN
this country. IS again at the hsight OF
are being shown in Paris with hip
length coats of the same or contrasting
material. Tho suit, Of blue-gray mixed
worsted, has a machine-pleated skirt,
very straight and narrow in hang be-
cause Of combining tapes beneath, and
with this skirt goes a smart htp-length
coat in rather mannish effect and hav-
ing slanting pockets. double revers and
fa,,v f,~I 1NnD r1a0 A
mannish. belted coats are called "Eport"
cOata, and they DO seem to lend their
wearers a sporty, youthful suggestion.
Made Of corduroys and rough fabrics
sport coats promise to be the fail craze
for golf and outing wear.
Another interesting tailored model
which makes use Of the new machine
navy blue. This suit has a looped under
tuntc OF machine pleating which falls to
the knees over very narrow. plain
skirt Tho coat is in the new finger
years very abbreviated style-and but
tons with two large acknowledged but
tons. There Is a collar Of tan agarc
over which turns narrower collar of
fall two long ties of the taffeta frinsed
out all along the edges. These long,
floating ties give a new and very inter
esting effect to the simple blue suit.
-.
Fashion is still initiating directoire
modes, but now the modes are mascu-
line rather than feminine Tho women
Of the directory period wore clinging,
h1gh-waisted gowns of diaphanous stuff,
but the men did not dress any more like
them than men dress like women at the
present moment Directory men wore
long-tailed coats, much cut away in front |
to show fancy waistcoats and layers Of
frills at the neck. Their sleeves were |
long and tight: their neckwear was mon |
strousy high and somewhat exaggerated
in cut. Frills depended from the ends of
their coat sleeves as we'll as adjoining
their manly chests. It is these masculine
fashions of the directory that have in |
Spired the creators of new tailored wear |
The cutaway coat opening over a frilled
waistcoat, the eccentric Robesplerre col |
lar, the many buttons, the coat tails, the
exaggerated coat revers-they are all
here and in most cases milady's skirt |
beneath the dandi1ed coat. is narrow
enough to suggest the knee breeches of
the direCtOfre beau.
One Of these directoire suits in a slight |
" military style has been designed for a
September bride. 1t is Of smoke gray
broadcoth and all edges Of the coat are
bound with gray bengaline silk OF
lighter shade. The skirt Is machine pleat |
ed and hangs in straight, narrow lines
and is just short enough to show the tip
of q patent leather boot with buttoned
gaiter top of gray cloth. The very mill |
tary coat falls to the hips and is belted |
at the waist line with a gray leather belt |
The coat buttons straight down the front
from a turnover Robespierre collar Of
stone gray velvet to two buttons below |
the belt where the coat fronts slope |
away in cutaway effect. This suit, par
ticularly trim and taunty in line. yet so |
subdued in coloring, is matched by |
black velvet toque trimmed with a gray |
ostrich tip.
Browns and grays are to be the colors |
in smart tailored wear, say those who
profess to know. Many handsome tailored
suits in shades Of brown are beginning
to appear, and the orders for gray suits
are enormous. All shades Of gray are ia !
vored from delicate mother-o'-pearl to
taupe gray. with its mauve cast. The |
smoke and elephant grays are liked best