Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-11-01
ENGLISH FASHION
New Styles in the Clothes of
BritisherS.
AND RAIMENT
INCOME
Some of the Latest Details in DERBY
Hats and Soft Felts-The
Lounge Coat.
London Correspondence Mems Wear.

EngliShmen, some of them at least are
at present engaged in a discussion which
In this country is usually monopolized by
the women. It concerns the amount which
is expended annually in order to be we'll
dressed. The ball was set rolling by NJ.
LIE Bargy. the French actor, who stated
that he could not possibly achieve a
proper sartorial standard under $1,000 a
year.
Immediately Englishmen began writing
to the papers. many of them protesting
that they considered that they dressed
we'll and that it did not cost them more
than a sixth of the sum named by the
Frenchman
The shape of this seasons derby
is decided change from the style
popular at this time of year The crown
is big. full one. and the brim vel
decidedly larger style than has been
worn of late. The soft felts selling are
mostly in good, neat Homburg shapes,
with curled brim. AS this type Of hat
has become so popular, and is now worn
by business men and for general town
use. it was only NATURAL that it should
get away from the neglige styles in
which 1t was worn few months ago.
Bandanna Handkerchiefs.
Bandanna handkerchiefs are going
strong just now. There is no doubt that
the popularity of the outside breast peck
ct to great extent accounts for this,
and this surely is a rapidly growing idea.
In spite of its only fault. that it breaks
the front of the coat If not carefully
pressed and we'll looked. after, it is gen.
orally used. and think it will soon be
the exception rather than the rule with
most of fai1nrc fn h.
out it.
Another item noticeable in the lounge
coat of today is the absence of the slit
IN the back. At present it is only made in
this way by the very best taiors in Lon
don, and when lounge coat is noticed
without the customary slit it is a pretty
safe guess that it has been turned out by
one of the leading tailoring firms in Lon
don. Made in this way the skirts are
also cut narrower-that is, with an alb
sence of spring-the lower portion of
the coat fitting closely to and defining
the shape of the figure to greater ex-
tent than formerly
l should like to give a description of one
or two overcoat models 1 have beeen
shown that are expected to go we'll this
fall and winter. The first is heavy
chinchilla raglan. double breasted. with
good long and bold lapels. The buttons,
rather closer together than usual. so that
the lowest button is not much below
the waist. and single belt, sewn at the
side seams, which gathers the rather full
back into graceful folds. This belt is set
rather high up and gives somewhat
short-waisted effect to the garment which
is quite pleasing. 1t must not. however
be overdone or the result is anything
but good. The exact position must be
arranged to suit the figure of each
individual wearer.
Everyday Street Coat.
The next coat will appeal largely to the
young man around town. 1t is cut single
breasted with fly front and is shaped
into the waist. The back is cut very full
from shoulders to waist and then gather
ed into a sewn down belt with a num-
Der Of tucks. very much like the sporting
Jackets being made now. long slit
from the waist to the bottom and plain
cuffs with two or three buttons are the
other details of this very swagger over
coat third model is a plain Chester
field in a lightweight gray cheviot lined
with gray satin and trimmed with gray
velvet collar. All the seams are plain
stitched and the pockets are finished
with flaps.
Some tailors are still showing the belt
ed and pleated back coat known as the
Guards and trying still to push it
is right out of date in all but the cheaper
snowy trades. 1t had a short and merry
life last year. but was killed by over
popularity.
Tweeds as suitings are going to figure
largely this coming fall, and the rich
brown mixtures with plenty of color are
among the most popular. The general
tone Of these cloths is brown, but closely
examined they show beautiful combina-
tions of gold. purple and green. All Of
them are rich. bright colorings, and are
the type of cloths that are going to be
sold by all the leading West End tailors.
For sporting wear there is an undoubt-
ed leaning to Irish tweeds Of the Done
gal or Connemara type. and it is appar-
ent that these are in for a decided re-
turn to favor.