New-York tribune., 1912-03-03


The best choice for the first spring hat
Is one OF the several marquis shapes in
fine black straw. or one matching in color
the street costume. The shape counts for
much this season: the trimming seems Of
little account till one realizes the value OF
the posing OF a bow OF ribbon. SILK or
velvet, or the accent a single feather.
brush or tall spray OF flowers can give
Hats OF fine black straw, with small round
crowns and brlms faced with white or
cOlored straw, turning up a little all
around, are worn by young women without
a bit Of trimming, except an absurd little
bow at the most effective angle. Rather a
large hat has it's white-faced brim trimmed
with a lot OF small black velvet ribbon
bows posed at far-apart distances on the
under side. The outside OF the hat Is inno-
Gently plain. except for the pretty hatpins;
these are now never more than two in
number and, while they may be as elegant
as one desires. they are quite moderate In
size
Fine black Chantilly lace and jet bead
trimming are both in favor for women who
can no longer call themselves young But
charming enough for any age is a large
tCque OF black Chantilly lace, trimmed with
a tall spray OF deep pink roses. One can
fancy its becom!ngness. poised at just the
right angle on soft gray hair, topping a
street costume OF one OF the pretty change
able taffetas. While the little bonnets into
which the head sinks deeply have passed
as a smart mode. elderly women will con-
tinue to claim them. and rightly. What Is
more becoming than one OF the old Nor
a. - atItr laAA
OF velvet for face that needs the loving
shading Of a carefully planned hat?
To keep pace with the white gowns that
promise to be in Such favor the coming
season are white hats in every combination
OF materials. hat worn in recent play,
variation OF the beret form, was made
OF frills or narrow Valenciennes lace. set
close together TO cover the whole crown.
the brim. that turned up little being Of
white erin Two small butterfly wings OF
black lace wired into position. trimmed 1t.
Even more charming was toque OF white
crushed straw, trimmed only with white
bird Of paradise: and smart in the extreme
was a large beret OF white mousseline de
soie, trimmed with an immense bow of
black tule a bunch OF dull toned flowers
being tucked under the slant of the brinl.
Doubtless the craze for white and black
and white that has lasted 80 long Is re-
suonsible FOR the wave OF color that has
swept into the new materials. Those ex-
perenced in prophecy however. predict that
white at least. will stand firm under THIS
onslaught and white and black. when ar
tistlcally mingled, can never fall TO please
What variety there Is in white II holds
as many shades as any color. White en-
hroidered and white lingerie gowns are
thrown into the background this season by
the charming new cotton orepes and voiles.
Far more dressy and becoming than the
heavier cottons that are generally consld-
ercd the special attribute OF summertime II
is said that these newer cottons are quite
az durable and will wash as well as the
others. Primitive shades ~ color are con-
ccntrating themselves In parasols. and II II
even said that stockings must match the
paraso
Among the new materials designed for
travelling costumes are tveeds that seem
heavy enough for the winter season. II is.
however. more I'm appearance than reality
this weight. In spite ~ its rough. coarse
weave. this tweed is curiousy thin. and,
held to the light quite transparent
In heather shades and all sorts OF woodsy
mixtures these materials are turned into
costumes OF excessive plainness, with an
absolut. impeccabili,y Of cut. The coat,
following the general lines OF the season.
is rather long in the back rounding
directly TO the bust. where II fastens under
on. two or three buttons. according TO the
exlgencies OF the figure. The preferred
closing Of the skirt ia in front or at one
hnf
skirt and coat As far as the outline goes
this coat will serve as a model for a hand
some calling costume OF soft faille SILK.
gros grain and satin. But in the case OF
these materials the edge Is often cut IN
shallow scallops or left straight. to be
adorned with the little ruches puffings and
the narrow tucked bands 10 which we have
become 80 accustomed that We have Tor
gotten IL is not long since when We smiled
AT them and wondered how the dear old
erandmothers could ever have thought
them pretty.
The quaint trimmings described above
are particularly charming ng-parucularly
quaint on the gowns Of little girls. I'M
agine a little creature OF half dozen years
ln q long coat OF changeable tafretas in
rose color and grey. trimmed with narro"
shirrtd ruches. Hanging straight from the
neck a four inch. shirred band hoids IL
into a high waist line. The shouiders
drop into a long line. finishing In a corded
armhole, and through this comes tui
sleeve drawn into close shirred band al
the wrist. a similar band trimming the edge
NJ tho hem The little bonnet worn with
this garment IS az quantity sweet. Mace
NJ the same silk, shirred into bonnet
form IL ties loosely under the round chin
With narrow black velvet ribbon The
fashions for grown-ups are wonderfniiy
adaptable for children.
Perfectly suitable to girl in her early
,ee,e vet copied exactly from gown worn
I'm a new play not long ago. Is little frock
~ silk cashmere In the soft shade Of cerise
that secms born for the blondeness OF
eirl OF that age. Except for four-inch
hem on the skirt turned up on to the out
side and the buttoned closing on the leIt
hin the skirt is perfectly plain. as childs
skirt should be. Gently shirred TO ronhn
waist line II joins the little bloused cor
sage under a soft belt OF cerise SILK IN
this dressy material the blouse IL carried
ont on the lines Of an ordinary sailor
blouse. white ratlne covering the collar
and the straight cuffs that finish the three
orarter chcmise sleeves. On the little
white guimpc is posed tiny bow OF black
velvet ribbon
Tafretas never seemed suitable material
for women's headgear: for children II -
inst the thing. for the between seasons
shirred and puffed in capeline. or bonnet
form and smartened with a big bow OF
black velvet For summertime for girls OF
all AGES. nothing can be prettier or more
..fl al LIZ q ah-