The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1912-11-19
BY Ida AMES WILLIS.

BY Ida AMES WILLIS.
The desire for novelty leads one to in
dulge in foods that are out OF season,
in the home markets, at least But the
truly discriminating, fastidious taste
does not really enjoy them. except as a
break in a too monotonous diet
Too great an indulgence in unseason-
able viands brings its penalty. When
these foods arrive in their time and full
development, We do not receive them
with the unalloyed pleasure and unsa-
tiated eye and palate their reappear-
ance after the interval of some months
affords.
There is a spicy flavor to autumn fruits
a richness in the meats, and individual
ity to the distnctively fall vegetables
that harmonize with the crisp, frosty
edged atmosphere that tones up the APP
petite to a relishing point for hearty,
heat-imparting. strengthening foods.
Nature does her best TO teach US wis
dom; to give us a proper sense of the
eternal fitness of things; TO refine our
appetites to the point where We not
only get a proper amount of real en-
joyment in eating, but what is of greater
Importance - obtain the real dieteuc
value OF our foods.
Wild Game.
When cooking game there is one small
but very important point few cooks
take into consideration. in fact. are ig-
norant Of because they seldom take
enough interest in their work to find out
for themselves the habits and kinds of
food peculiar to the different species of
game-birds and animals. Take the can
vasback duck, for example; the delicate
individual flavor of the meat is said
to be due to its feeding of wild celery.
The wild turkey of the South that gobles
whole the sweet nuts and berries; the
partridge and quail and hen of the prai-
rIe-alI have their flesh so delciously
favored and seasoned. even to- the wild
THYME that It were sacrilege to add
sreck more spice or seasoning, except 1t
be a little salt-not too much though
to the dressing, or filling, if you must
have the meat stuffed.
The delicacy of the meat of the rice
bird of the South led poultry raisers to
feed young broilers on cracked rice, and
thus greatly increase the enjoyment of
the epicure. as well as the poultry rais-
ers' incomes. And who does not know
that the Southern hog. allowed to roam
the forest and forage for himself until
fattening time, produces meat so finely
favored with pecans and other wild nuts
and roots that it puts it in a class very
distinct and separate from others of its
kind. These facts should teach US some
thing well worth our knowing in culinary
love. and this is why the cooking of
game requires a separate chapter of
instruction, and an intelligent cook.
Cooking requires a knowledge of all
things" Ruskin-intellectual, spiritual,
Ruskin-assures US. 1t is a far cry be-
tween the mental standard of Ruskin
and that of the average intelligence we
place at the head of our kitchen Iabora-
tory.
Squirrels.
Squirrel meat is more in favor in the
South than North. AS the animal feeds
alomst exclusively on nuts and. young,
is a very fat morsel when well condi-
toned. the meat requires special meth
DDS of cooking to get best results. The
favorite squirrel dish of ''ole Virginny'
had its origin in the county called Bruins
wick hence the name, Brunswick
stew"
Take two large squirrels, one quart of
tomatoes. peeled aud sliced, if fresh; one
pint of lima beans-or butter beans; two
teaspoonfuls white sugar; one small
minced onion, six potatoes, six ears of
corn, scraped from the cob, or can of
sweet corn pulp; half a pound of butter,
half a pound of salt pork, one table
spoonful SALT, three level teaspoonfuls
pepper, and gallon of water. Cut the
squirrels up as for frioasse. add salt and
water and boil five minutes Then put
in the onions, beans, corn, pork, potato.
and pepper. And when boiling again add
the squirrel. Cover closely and stew
two hours; then add the tomato mixed
with the sugar, and stew an hour longer
Ten minutes before removing from the
IRE cut the butter into pieces the size of