The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1912-11-30

New York, Nov. 2e.-some Of the
most picturesque models that may be
seen in the shops and fashionable
dressmaking establishments are of the
directoire period. The short-waisted
coat, with its deep collar and broad la
pels, the friIls Of lace adjoining the
front and sleeves the wide sash knot
ted at the side, the ~slashed-up skirt
and the smart turned-up hat. with its
stiff cockade-au have been revived to
a marked extent in the modes of the
present season.
The tall woman should revel in this
fact, for she appears at her best when
attired in a directoire gown. Grace and
dignity are contributed by these fash
ions. Materials are seen at their best
when used to fashion an artistic cos
tune of this period.
Not every one can efford frocks of
the now extremely fashionable silk
velvet. so velveteen was manufactured
as a cheaper substitute. 1t is lovely,
and gives almost the same effect as
silk velvet when made up Velveteen
and corduroy are used to fashion many
smart frocks for street wear.
Plain colors are more frequently
used for the velveteen models. They
are effectively trimmd with fur. metal
lie laces. Persian or tapestry embroid-
cry. Velveteen does not adopt itself
SO successfully to draping as do the
softer velvets, so the skirts are usual
~ plain or with pleated Insects. The
bodices are in jumper effects, with
guimpes Of lace or chiffon. C~orduroys
in the s-oft-hnished qualities are ex-
tensiyely used. Frocks and coat suits
are developed from this material and
seem to find a ready sale.
Narrow bands of ermine. mole and
other short-haired furs are used on
the collars. sleeves and in trimming
arrangements on the fronts of dressy
waists. Fur bands are used in some
cases IN the upper section of the
sleeve to hold the extra fullness or
~drapery in place. or in simple arrange
ment to produce n trimming effect
other styles show the fur bands at the
edge of the sleeve. The collar trim
ming usually takes the form of an
edge around the Robespierre collar OF
the fiat directorie collar which extends
over the shoulder.
Strictly tailored waists have the
characteristics Of the mannish shirts in
he high. soft. turnover collar and
GUNS and welted seams. Washable
crepes de chine. heavy China silks and
madras have narrow colored stripes or
white groundwork. such as brown
Dutch n navy blue, wistaria purple
and amber. Buttons of colored glass
or amber composition are very effect.
lively used for the front pIeat closing
when they match the stripe of the silk
White pearl buttons are also used.
7 ~Soft-fnished taffetas, messalines anC
satins are usually of the same color
as the coat suit, as well as black. Man,
of these models are plain. but bott
striped and plated patterns are als'
seen. The groundwork Of Scotch
plaids is usually blue. brown, green O.
black. with a plaided design in viviC
shades of red. green, blue or yellow
The stripes on these dark waists ar,
in shades of red. purple, taupe, yellow
and king blue.
Indications point to an increasing
use of various founce effects. One o
the favored styles for developing tn
hounce skirt is the use of a slight.
gathered skirt yoke in conjunction
with two tw~enty-seven inch fiounces
Some Of these gowns have the scan
hounces in velvet. plush. lace, net
charmeuse or chiffon. The three-piec
skirt has scant 1ounces about eighteel
inches wide. They are cut in curve