Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1912-08-02


for women and insist upon being provided with the
regular boys stock including the strap at the back
line touch Low heels outing shoes are more nu-
merous this year some years past ana a Few
shoes are now shown without any heeiS'
While the regular stock slippers and shoes MADE
in the great factories dainty and exclusive 40
their design each season there is increasing mum
Der of people for whom shoes are made 10 oFoer
This is not always done in the little HAND snop
either. fact, there fewer of these than Tor
carefully by the filter IN the store, anu ne Sno
is made a last which is made from the correci
measurements These lasts are made to order foI
the shoe manufacturers. shoe be made to
from a proper last at only a trifle more ex
lar women frequently have their shoes made from
the material their gowns and men can give
last, knowing that they will be equally salts
factory in fit.
There is close connection between the shoe sno
stocking in the mind. and it is interesting
to that America leads the world in both produc
tions both as regards quality and quantity. During
the year important patents have been granted
the improvement of stocking knitting machinery
one is plating process by which silk may knit
over cotton or over another color of silk
many elaborate effects comparatively easy or pro-
duction Another is a seamless plated heel and the
third is a machine which knits the ribbed top
of the stocking with single double welt instead Of
ragged edge. These three inventions have made
sible trade ventures which quite exceeded those
. stocking manufacturers, the closest
rivals America has had in the hosiery trade OF the
world.
The most notable economy connected with tts
present fashions in hosiery low price at which
stockings placed upon the market 1t is slB
season. indeed, the huTnblest hard working toler
may compete with the millionaire in the wearing OF
silk stockings The question is being continually
asked: How silk stockings be sold 80 cheap
They may be found in many stores as low as three
pairs OF women hosiery Tor 81 ana 20 cents par
for mems half hose. Those sold at the more exclus
sive stores at higher price are little more attrac-
tive either in appearance in wearing quality. The
silk stocking trade this has placed the ordinary
Isle cotton stocking quite in the background and
in their wearing qualities the latter. are nc
longer superior -. -s.s.. -. .4a~ ,.rtst
One secret is that the improved machinery has re
duced the labor of knitting stockings minimum.
of silk is less than formerly and the cost
of manufacturing has been reduced in even greater
greater Importance which has brought down the cost
of sken hosiery This is that the greater part OF the
socalled silk stockings found in the shops are not
silk at ALL so Tar as the industry OF the SILK worm
concerned The making of artificial silk is OF
the newer industries developed in the twentieth CEN
utyr, and only within the past three four years
has it achieved any great commercial value in Amer
silk has been talked of. and in the early SOS
synthetic silk produced which it is claimed
silk cocoon, but this achievement had commercial
value because Of its cost of production
Frenchman named chardonnet first made it pos
sibIe to produce artificial silk commercial Oa-
sis. He went into bankruptcy three times in doing
it but it is gratifying that he finally achiev
wealth. He produced silk by using solution of
nitrO-cellulose made of either cotton wood pulp.
and dissolving it in sulphuric ether Some Of the
largest mills in Europe still using product IN
modified form, although others since
then been formulated. One Of these is known the
cupramonium solution of celluoss in which copper
salts and ammonia the solvents. The other
composition discovered by two English chemists which
is considered the best and is known the most
practical for making these artificial filamsnts Of
which silk is composed.
The nitro-celluIose produced by Chardonnet de-
ponds upon almost the same solution which is used
eIfIof
produced in this way highly explosive and dan
handle, COULD be of commercial value
trating the finished yarn that 1t no more
fammable than paper or cotton. A German inventor
made still further improvements and there
great facotries located Besancon, France; at
FIanhio[@ Germany ano at Luricn' switzerland. In
manufactured daily. An enormous plant was
opened in Pennsylvania last wear for this nrod,ct
vscose silk, which the term applied to the
product Of the English inventors starts from al
tic soda until mercerization similar to that chem
ical process used for mercerizng cotton yarns has
take place excepting that the is carried
further IN making Viscose silk The process Of re-
ducng the cellulOse flaments is delicate and tech
meal Every particle of celulose is composed of Is
stretched dried and into yarn by especially con-
is almost incredible single pound of yarn win
contain much 500 miles of Individual fiIament
yards of yarn pound. Is fiIaments being twisted
together to form the conservative estimate
ries manufacturing artificial silk is placed at $685.
600 miles, so that it is easy to why silk srncs-
ings have come within the of every Iaborins
who likes them.
Cotton pulp is used in or the European fac
tories has been experimental with in the United
States. wood pulp more suitable and at the
same time economical, since waste wood products
cain be used in this AT present fully 20 per
cent the worlds consumption of silk yarn the
artificial product and this percentage is increasing
Many millions of dollars have been expended in
Europe and the United States in the production or
artificial silks The first American corporation to
exploit viscose silks spent $10OO000 without
result Now, however, the principles involved are
fully understood. and each year will add the
omy production, there is little doubt that
the artificial silk yarn is just infancy.
All o the artificial silks dye stuffs
cotton and readily dyed, the luster being bril-
antly accentuated in certain shades Care has to
be taken while the skeins wet the flaments
much of their strength while in this conditions
The celulose is microscopic and after absorbing q
quantity Of water 1t swels up that its physical
,r,oE araI