The Ordway new era., 1912-10-04
R10C ~sNILZ

silent - the grave ana very oepfose
ing. There were no birds. except red
headed black woodpeckers as big ~
pigeons and NO Animals. despite tho
luxuriant vegetation. had not bsen
in the country long before I heard
talk that 'threo big rivers were on the
mountains. the descriptions OF which
convinced me they wero lakes. Korea
was supposed to be lakelsss.
1T took an immense amount OF per-
suasion upon the part Of the Japan.
CSC gendarmes to get my horsemen to
20 into the forest with me. and after
We got there they were forever want
Ing to leave me. Finally l had 70
threaten to shoot anybody that tried
to steal . horse. The ground was full
Of springs. One day In tan or twelve
hours work We made only nvs miles.
We came out Of the forest upon one
Of the lakes suddenly. They are upon
the summit Of . mountain ebout 1000
feet high. found that the lakes were
known BY report to the Koreans -
Sam Chs-ung Three Bodies Of Wa
teri. and I did not attempt to recffis-
ten them. Tho largest II about three
miles In cricumfsreuos. the nsxt 10
about Q mile around. and the third
about two miles. The shores arc en-
tirely Of volcanic ash. Thsre u no
outlet or inlet
Il camped three or four days there.
built q raft and made soundings. Tho
water In the lakes ranged from SIX to
eighteen iset In depth. and ~ near -
could figure out tho bottoms are 0
volcanic ash. There are numerous de-
pressions In the top Of the mountain.
and I figure out that the water in the
lakes comes from melting snow. rains.
and perhaps some springs on the bot
toms. There seemed . probability
that the volcanic ash came from Paik-
tu.san. though the latter 10 IS miles
distant. The ash along the shores OF
the lakes IL loose. and you sink into
1t up to your shoe tops. The trees
thereabouts arc only about 30 feet
tall
Down the Yalu to Antun0.
Even when we left the lakes my
Koreans were still In fear of the rob-
bers. but we got out into the Yalu
country after an uneventtul trip. We
soon came to whore the Japanese had
been cutting lumber. and then l got
a raft at the Yalu for my stan and
small boat for myself. and weLt down
the river 375 miles to Antung. near
which the battle of the Yalu was
fought. There a railroad connects
with Mukden. l had been In the for
est SO weeks.
Most Of the people In that northern
country had never seen white man.
As my eyes we're not brown. they
would not believe that l could see.
In every village they would hold
up things In front Of me to prove
my eyesight.
AT another village arrived very
tired lato one afternoon. Toward twi-
light the interpreter awakened me
with the Intelligence that crowd
wanted the strange looking man to
show himself. l was wearing beard
at the time. Most Koreans never
shave. The most they can raise in
the way Of hirsute adornment II few
strands. When l took a pair OF sells
sors and began to trim my beard. they
were shocked, and when took out my
safety razor and began to shave OF a
perfectly good set of whiskers they
were struck dumb.
Except N Seoul. the Korean won.
en- are not supposed to be seen by
n man who is not a member OF their
own family. They seemed to be afraid
of me In that north country. One aft.
ernoon q delegation of two women
came to my tent and asked II l would
not exhibit myself the next morning
to al, tha w9men in the village at
once.
I'm one place I saw = man eleven
years old and boy Of forty-seven.
You see, in Korea a male Ia not q
man unSil he marries. Then he can
wear the national hat. The boy Of
eleven had q wife and wore hat.
The other, who was single. had tc
part his hair and wear 1t down his
back"