New-York tribune., 1912-03-10
They Have Discarded Furs
and Donned Tailored
Gowns of Black
Silk.
Paris, February 2S.


The rage Of this winter for the conference
reached the height Of success in one recent
ly originated by one Of the great dressmak-
ing houses and conducted by the talented
conferencier Andre Fouquieres and the
charming Mile. MaTnac, the first indorslng
the taste OF the past in dress and the sec
ond brilliantly defending that Of to-day
But the discussion for and against mattereo
little The main point was the gathering
together Of an audience composed entlreIS
Of women prominent in two great WORLDS
the mondaines and women of the stage. Be
tween the two speakers pretty programme
Of song, music and comedy was enacted anu
greatly enjoyed. More enjoyable even thi.h
this was the exhibition on pretty mani
kns Of exquisite gowns that served to MUS
trate the instructive and witty talk OF the
two clever speakers.
Mile Marnac herself wore fascinating
gown Of white satin and Empire green
The skirt was oddly draped with green
mousseline de sole, long. slender folds OF II
dropped from the waist line 10 the hem ana
fastened in the middle under fiat rosette
The green corsage shaped short sleeves over
long, tight satin ones, and wide reVers OF
white embroidered null crossed low W
front, with ends tucked inside round Deit
The women I'm the audience-the hlghesl
bloom Of Parisian elegance-eXcmplihed the
last word OF late winter gOwning. Furs wer"
discarded for feather boas and nuns az
nufy with frills. shrred tulle and dripping
ribbon ends Tailored dresses, having the
appearance Of being made all in one piece
were built Of black silk and finished al the
hem with wide or narrow pleated or gain
cred frills. which fared at the back and re-
NAMED fiat in front as heretofore. Inc
frills were quantity headed with bands OF
fine silk tucking. forming little silk puHs'
Little coats that rounded sharply from
nigh bust closing were trimmed to match'
and the small three-quarter long sleeves
were widened with large cuffs Wlthou'
this little coat such a dress Is quite COM
plete, with It's simple corsage. trimmed WIN
wide. fiat collar OF finely embroidered
white null and sleeve frils or cuffs OF the
same material. The economy Of the coat
is, however. evident when II Is considered
mat II can later be worn with handsome
white gowns as we'll as with little frocks
OF the pretty lowered. transparent stuits so
lovely for summer wear. thus adding I'M
mensely 10 the variety Of simple ward
robes
II Is worth remembering that up TO this
moment II is silk coats and coats made ot
other dressy materials. like SILK CASH
meres and fine white materials, that show
the cutaway finish. Tailor costumes OF
the swagger. coarseiy woven woollen stuffs
arc oftener cut with straight fronts, clos
ing diagonslly or double breasted. All are
ratfer long at the back. the lengtheninG
being achieved In different ways. Some
Times the middle Of the back only Is cur
longer reaching in a stitched fold from the
shoulders: again the garment drops gradu-
ally from the front
Al the first openings now I'm progress
many eccentricities have been shown
eecentricities clearly hinted at in recent
new production on the stage Of a fashion
able theatre. But as soon as the openings
are over these things will have disap-
peared as completely as though they had
never been. At the theatrical performance
"a question the gowns worn by the
actresses were so ungraceful In effect, so
absurd In design and SO utterly lacking in