The Pioche record. [volume] (Pioche, Nev.) 1908-1925, 1912-12-07

NE YOU want to get away from the
world of trusts and strikes and
monopolies, away from the clan
FL gor of car bells and the shrieks
of itinerant newsboys, and back
to time when, four times a day, the
long-pronounced walls of score of
muezzeius sound from as many min
arets where competition is unknown
and there are no labor unions, go by
rail across Macedonia to Adrianople,
the strategic point in every trans
Macedonian war!
Half an hour after midnight, pro-
verbal black Turkish night with the
| crickets singing and the boys peddling
water at the stations, the east-bound
all-Macedonian express deposited me
at station labeled Karaghatch-
somewhere this side of Constantin-
ople. undoubtedly, but how far from
my destination, the old capital of the
Ottoman empire, Adrianople, had not
. the faintest idea. There was light
baggage examination, for came here
from Salonika and there is always
vinces in Turkey, and then they went
for my teskeret or internal passport.
! Where l had come from, where had
| told the Salonika police | was bound
for, what country l hailed from. my
profession, general characteristics,
! ETC., all were copied il the feeble light
Of a station lantern, while the crickets
sang on and the hours grew ever
wee'er and weeer
h Finally, after registering the names
Of the newspapers represented, | was
turned loose to find my way. There
were two or three ramshackle cabs
standing about and hired the one
whose driver seemed to have least of
the bitterness of life written in his
face.
Over lone, dark fields and down a
pike, feebly lit by gas lamps, over a
bridge across the Martha, into which
my cicerone could have hurled the in
fdel passenger and no man been the
wiser, and up to the doors Of the Hotel
America (think Of it'll, was taken.
1t was one by the town clock when we
galloped thus into Adrianople.
By means Of a narrow door we en-.
tered courtyard, surrounded by low
veranda, onto which the guest rooms
opened. 1t took up another half hour
to wake the proprietor and then was
given bed. I was again In America
withal in the heart Of Turkey, at last!
Afraid to Walk Streets.
Waking early that next morning the
prospect was not reassuring. A maze
of gray-brown roofs stretched off OF
every hand That was all After ar
|. experienced in Monastir. where we ha(
; been arrested for walking the streets
under the plea that they mistook MI
FOR a spy, I dared not venture fortl
n this city without authorized guide
and that gentleman was not at leisure
: until 11:15. l beguiled the time al
does every other stranger thus put t
, It in Adrianople, with Myer, the Bae
, leker of the Balkans, attempting t.
> earn what we could of the city beyon,
the fact of it's containing branch o
? the Ottoman bank, and Austrian, a
Q we'll as Turkish, postoffices, which i
] always the fact thrust first on tn
{ traveller
|. This Adrianople, the old capital O
9 Turkey in Europe. lies at the junction
Of the Martha, the Arda and tn
: Tundsche rivers, In a most fertile va
a lev. Now the capital of the vilayet o
+ province of the same name, Adrian
ople. has fallen from its former glory
o and. as l was already aware. was mad
r up Of narrow, crooked, badly-plastere
streets, dirty as is only Turkey in d;
a ,adence. withal that a movement wa
n now on foot for widening the mai
d thoroughfare. The town is built a
most entirely of lightly constructe
\ shanties. with gardens and Goblin
a walks until it takes on the appearance
Of an over-grown village. It's popul
!, ton nevertheless is set at $1,000, an
|, Adrianople is probably the only plac
= In the Ottoman empire where popul
:. ton Is being estimated, for the sulta
= has a pleasant habit of holding tn
province governors responsible ft
amounts of taxes proportionate
= population, and 30 these usually d
q ceive and lower the figure. Chri
JAMS, however. tell you that owing
). the great emigration to America Il
population of Adrianople today is nj
? over, If so much as, 1920, OF whit
= about 10000 are Aussulmen; viii