Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1912-06-28

| NEW YORK, June 2S.-During the
last few years the popularity of the
one piece trotting frock for street
| wear has steadily increased and now
such frocks in silk, in light weight
| wool, in linen and even in the thinner
| cottons are accepted as correct for
| such use where once they would have
been considered odd and out of place.
This new custom undoubtedly means
increased comfort, for coat and skirt
costume with separate blouse, even
when made of very light weight wool
or of silk, is warmer than frock of
light material, but it is one that may
| easily be abused.
One>Qbjectionable feature of these
frocks is the excessive shortness of
| the sleeves, often supplemented by ex-
| IRENE loWness at the throat the mex
pensive, ready made frocks being par
| ticularly prone to these foibles. OF
course it is an easy matter to wear
guimpe with such frock, a guimpe
that will supply little undersleeves
as we'll as chemisette or collar. Every
shop shows such guimpes in great and
pleasing variety.
Collars, hand embroidered or orna-
mented by both hand embroidery and
lace, have to a noticeable extent super
seeded the frill collar on the latest
French frocks, the frill, though at
tractive, having been overdone. Often
these collars do not meet in front but
extend only around to each side of the
front, the space. being filled by one
of the wide jabots. This gives a cut
with a suggestion OF squareness at
the throat, in place of the more famil-
lar round or pointed lines. and many
women to whom the two latter types
of collarless neck finish, or rather low
collar neck finish, Are unbecoming,
will find that this square line is
kinder.
The slightly rolled collar with point
ed front finish is gaining in favor and
on simple tub frocks is both becoming
and trim. On the French models,
these so.callei Robespierre collars are
frequently to be seen, and the collar
running in straight lines from the base
of the throat to some point on line
with it to the shoulder points is also
liked this kind of collar being usually
associated with some sort of soft fichu
or reverse drapery or with front frills.
The transparent or semi-transpar-
ent guilnpe with sleeves worn with
heavier blouse which is sleeveless, is
exceedingly practical for the hot
weather, and, luckily. is once more in
style. Most often, perhaps, it is in
chiffon or net or other sheer stuff
echoing the color of the frock, but one
sees it too in sheer white or cream
lingerie material associated with
jumper blouse of darker coloring. This
sort of thing must be carefully handl-
ed if it is to have smartness, but when
successful the arrangement is very
fresh and pretty.
Some extremely good looking mod
els are made up in black or very dark
blue charmeuse or taffeta, and chiffon
sleeves to match the frock. having an
unlined air but really mounted on
flesh colored tulle, may be provided
for wear when the lingerie sleeves
seem undesirable.
This is one way of getting around
the discomfort of the mOdish long
sleeves; and sometimes close fitting
cuff of silk or other frock material is
used with a semi-transparent upper
sleeve. which affords a little more
GOODNESS than the long sleeve entirely
of the heavier material.
AS midsummer approaches the short
sleeve of course wins more and more
favor and the sleeves reaching to the
elbow or little below and left wide
open there with deep frills or wide
turn-back cuff or wide, open under
sleeve for finish are exceedingly cool
and comfortable for hot weather wear,
but the long sleeve does have chic
and knowing air in the street frock,
possibly because it is seldom seen in
any we'll cut and original phase upon
the cheap ready made frocks or blous-
es offered in the less discriminating
shops.
Lingerie frocks worn under draped
tunics of coloerd silk muslin or chit
fon are being worn much in Paris and