Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-28

gives the pannier effect. At q recent
| opening in New York, where beautiful
| mannequins attired In the latest Partisan
creations paraded up and down q lowered
pathway between rows Of green plants.
pacing with the inimitable manneQuin
step to the music Of . hidden string or
chestra, several Interesting pannier
frocks were observed. One OF these. a
dun soft blues and autumn Leaf browns
| on q cream ground. was especially dainty
and pretty. The 1ooped under pannier-
tunic was. graceful and the skirt OF old
captivating boots of black satin with
crystal buttons. A hat OF shirred blue
| taffeta matching the skirt, and q blue
| taffeta parasol completed fetching att
| ernoon costume.
| Though various notifications Of the
pannier show skirts with trains. these
| models are frankly notifications: for
the real pannier skirt Is short and
coquettish and usually reveals the
| daintily shod foot quite frankly. In
the days when panniers were the mode.
high heeled colonial slippers with point
ed toes and huge buckles added much
to the effect Of the looped up petticoats:
Just now the buttoned boot Is more
fashionable than the slipper. and the
new high-heeled boots with their pointed
toes and dainty fit are fetchingly pretty
under the pannier skirts. The pannier Is
such feminine mode that everything
that accompanies it should be coQuettish-
ly feminine also; and anything more ex-
quisitely feminine than the little boot
of satin with Louis heels and crystal
patent leather with q buttoned cloth
top in ''spat" effect, it would be hard
to imagine.
Not all the panniers. however. are
L nkA <,kSx ON
n 1GePed gown ~noe Of black taeta Illustrated
on today's page. is not locped under,
though it gives the looped effect. This
pannier also illustrates the manner in
which the SLIM n nsrrow s shs eaan,s Is
drapery. The petticoat of taffeta is band
ed with very wide black velvet ribbon.
and much narrower black velvet ribbon
is placed over the gathers at the bottom
Of the pannier, which is edged with a
tiny pleating of the silk. AT the back
the pannier is quite full, the pufhngs of
material being held down under strips
of the velvet ribbon which extend from
waistline to knee. This pannier is cut
In two sections: the apron-like front and
the much puffed back which is suggestive
of the D'Israen era when bustles were IN
vogue. But in spite of the gathers and
puffings the pannier on this taffeta
frock is so cleverly managed that the
general silhouette of the skirt IL scarce
Iy more bouffant than an ordinary skirt
of the hobble genus.
Some women rebel against too vivid
colors for street wear, and to these the
taffeta frocks and suits in black Will ap-
peal. In season of strong colors there
is always apt to be reaction in favor
Of black and the little frocks of lustrous
black taffeta when accompanied by tell
~f vxyEs q -
indeed. Mime. Simone. the talented
French actress who has delighted Ameri-
can audiences this winter. adores black
frocks enlivened by touches Of white and
black taffeta dresses in her plays. The
panniered frock illustrated Is OF the new,
soft taffeta, which has a brilliant sheen
and which is as soft as messaline satin.
The contrast Of the jet black velvet with
this lustrods silk Is very effective. The
bodice is of black filet lace over white
chiffon, straps of velvet edged with taf-
feta pleating passing over the shoulders:
In the square decoaetage Is a tucker OF
white lace, matching the sleeve frills, and
across this tucker of lace is draped thin
black tulle. The beads are of black
wood and the altogether chic little black
and white costume is completed by but
toned boots of white buckskin.
Some of the more daring courturiers
have sent very sensational pannier ef-
fects to Auteuil, where the spring fashions
are tried out; and needless to say, these
grotesque panniers were the talk OF the
day on each occasion. A Cabot frock
of changeable blue and green taffeta had
a punched out pannier reaching between
hip and knee and from its lower edge,
wired with hoop, fell a six-inch founce
over a pleated skirt OF the taffeta- Cal
lot is determined to bring pleats into
fashion and many Of her new models have
skirts laid in fatty pressed. shallow
pleats. Paquin is introducing pleats In
tailored skirts and it Is generally under
stood that the severe, narrow hobble skirt
| is doomed.
French races have been frankly hideous
and even vulgar in line, some OF them
giving the effect, at a little distance, of a
child's petticoats punched up above the
| hips, at the beach, to, make wading pos
sibie Other skirts have ugly excrescences
at the hips and back with tight band
below, drawing the skirt In against the
limbs 1t is not probable that any OF
J these ungraceful effects will be adopted
by the French fashionables. or by Ameri-
can women who insist upon grace and re-
fnement in the modes.
| 4 4
| Several notifications of the pannier,
as created by couturiers who are con-
sentative and authoritative. are illus
trated Very graceful. it will be con-
coded. Is the charming Worth frock
of lowered chiffon. The pannier of the
lowered material Is draped over a pleat-
panel Of the white chiffon Is set at the
back OF the pannier drapery In the effect