davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26
C0Iored VoiIeS and Linens.

WHILE the vogue for white for sum-
w mer is pronounced in all lines OF
women's wearing apparel, there are many
attractive examples of color in voiles and
linens particularly. In voiles there are
striped effects I'm blue and white. black
and white, rose and lavender. etc. Dresses
of this character are trimmed. as rule.
rather deliberately with lace of the coarser
variety, such as Irish crochet. filet. cluny.
macrame and satin. French wolfe waists
are in soft shadings to harmonic with
suit colorings. There is a medium tone
of gray with a touch of black in the yoke.
collar, cuffs, and button trimmings, while
a dull shade of blue is used with bands
of coral wolfe. set in with double hemL
stitching. White wolfe suits are seen with
rose wolfe trimmings and attractive fancy
buttons.
Colored effects in wolfe fiouncings have
the designs embroidered in white, deli
cately outlined in colors. Ecru on white
Is very popular. as is also light pink,
light blue. and a new, rich beet shade.
The delicate shades Of pink, blue, and
lavender are seen In linens In addition to
white and natural tones. Natural color
linens on the coarDsr order Of ramies
are especially popular.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26
Important Color Suggestions

per. the other at the lower edge. Zach is
faced in silk and weighted. These hang at
the middle back, over the black chiffon, and
serve to give the fashionable bouffant eff
feet. The bodice has set-in elbow sleeves,
finished by a turnback cuff of silk and
trimmed with one large jet button. At
the back of the neck there is a sailor col
lar OF taffeta edged at the bottom with
a single strip Of black ribbon The collar,
as 1t comes forward. shapes into long.
draped revers, forming a deep v neck.
This Is filled in with folds of white tulle.
g. delightful arrangement for summer
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

a few we'll made things of very best ma
terial rather than quantity of cheaper
clothes. for only the finest materials are
distinguished in black, and it should al
ways be kept in mind that mourning
wear, because 1t may not make any ap-
peal with charm of color. must be distin-
guished and elegant to be pleasing. There
Is no getting around the fact that 1t
costs more to dress in mourning than In
colors, but the mourning period is short
after all. and most women prefer to ex-
pend little more at this time, taking
excellent care of the few clothes pur-
chased, than to go about looking framp-
ish or pitiable in cheap black.
There are certain conventions which
must be observed, il ones mourning
is TO be correct. Be 1t remembered that
mourning is not deep simply because it is
woe-begone. but because of its adherence
10 the regulations that govern deep
mourning. So long as 1t is built Of proper
materials and conforms 10 certain rules.
first mourning may be unutterably
deep, yet at the same time quite per-
ceptibly coquettish The French have a
knack of making mourning wear more
full of grace and coquetry than even
Sayly colored raiment, and though the
frivolity of French mourning offends the
taste of women I'm real. sorrow, there are
be followed with profit by English and
American women, who accepting the fact
that they must wear black" for GER
tain time, settle down to year two
of dull embarrassing garb of somber hue.
Crepe relieves the dead black of mourn
ing fabrics. and gives much smartness
and distinction to the simplest gown. Crepe
is very fashionable now, and is used all
through the period of mourning, not only
by the widow, but by those In mourning
for parents, brother or sister or child.
Bouses of chiffon net trimmed with
pipings of crepe are exceedingly smart,
and are worn with two-ptece suits OF
black cheviot or dull finished serge. Thin
black China silk makes an ideal summer
street frock for the woman in mourning.
and such frock. simply made. is illus
trated. This frock has a three-founce
skirt and a simply cut bodice. with a
little yoke of tucked net, outlined with
duh jet trimming. The sleeve falls over
long undersleeve of tucked net. 1t is
not considered correct in mourning to
wear a frock minus a wrap in the street.
and there are hosts of graceful scarf
wraps of chiffon thin silk and crepe de
chine. finished at the ends with tasseis.
that make simple mourning frecks very
' chic.
For house and evening wear there may
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

bands are used on dainty dancing frocks
of light chiffon, and with white lace
pearls are especially lovely.
Small silk roses are also used on
the summer evening gowns, and these
tiny roses are particularly pretty on
debutante dancing gowns. gown or
this sort, made by Worth, has white
satin tunic over a petticoat OF lace
fiounces and the tunic appears to
button down the back with tiny pink
silk roses, while clusters Of roses loop
up the lace f1ounces on the skirt Pink
satin buttoned boots with high heels
are provided for this dainty dancing
frock Another adorable dancing
frock of lavender chiffon has nine
scalloped fiounces on the skirt. each
f1ounce edged with a tiny quilting OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

lavender taffeta. Clusters of violets
are caught here and there among the
scalloped flounces. and at the crossing
of a draped fichu bodice. Many Of the
lace and net dancing frocks for mid
summer evenings have three or more
lace ruffies on the skirt. lifted at the
left side and tapping over each other.
Sometimes a festoon of roses runs
from the lifted ruff1es to the belt line
to emphasize the lifted effect. though
the ruffles are, of course. sloped up
ward on the skirt. which is not really
lifted at all. At the foot, between the
Tapped edges of the lower ruffie the
little slippered or booted foot shows
plainly. High-heeled boots of satin.
with crystal buttons, are affected by
smart women for evening wear this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26
Short Cuts for Housekeepers

quart. When cooked. add another
quart of boiling water. Strain. without
squeezing, through double thickness
of cheesecloth or through flannel. and
use it while hot. This is the best
starch for delicate fabrics. When starch
ing colored clothes rub the starch in
thoroughly and wipe off any excess, and
no difficulty will be experienced with
white starch spots
Glue may be used for stiffening dark
colors Take twelve ounces of dark
glue to one quart of water. Boil to
gether until the glue is dissolved Cool
somewhat. The garment to be stirren-
ed should then be dipped in the glue.
and the excess of glue wiped off with
a piece of black cheesecloth. sateen or
calico. After sprfnkling. the garment
should be rolled in a black cloth and
should ne ironed on board covered
with black cloth. ANY glue left over
may be saved and used again
To make garment very stiff dry part
ly before starching. Add one tablespoon
powdered gum arabic reduced 10 a LIQUID
in one-half cup of boiling water TO the
stiff starch mixture Dry as quickly as
possible.
When using gum arabic as a starch
substitute take four tablespoons of pull
verified gum arabic to one pint of cold
water and three tablespoons Of alcohol
Put the water and gum arabic in a sauce
pan and set into another saucepan con-
tanning boiling water. When dissolved
strain through cheesecloth. cool, add the
alcohol, pour into bottle, cork and set
away for future use. The alcohol acts as
preservative. and this mixture can be
kept for any length OF time.
No one kind OF bluing can be recon-
mended to the housekeeper. She must
experiment for herself and choose one
good variety and learn to use that one
properly. Sufficient bluing should be used
to make a little of the liquid taken up in
the hand show a pale sky blue color. IL
Is always better to make a small amount
OF strong bluing. and then use this to
color the water In the tub.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26
A Novel Hat Pin.

THE prettiest hat pin yet has two ruff
nes Of lace. in the center of which is
a wreath of tiny ribbon roses In pastel
shades. The roses are no larger than
peas, and there are six of them in the lit
tie wreath, which is about the size of
silver quarter-dollar. The lace rufYies
spread out from the wreath of tiny roses
and the hat pin, in place, looks like
dainty ornament On the crown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

HE average woman
puts her formal
ev eni n & gowns
away with a sigh
of relief at the be-
ginning of summer,
along with the
dress nit of her
better half, and
gives herself up to
the consideration
of summer raj
ment: but. as some
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

days OF stuffy bomba zines and wool
mourning fabrics have passed. and thin
silks. Crepes. duh finished black mohair
and various cotton and silk weaves are
AT the command OF the wearer of mourn
ing Black, al best. is a warm color to
look at. and unfortunately the woman
robed in mourning hahilments is often
denTessinglN warm IN SUGGESTION ON a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

one has remarked. ''one-half the world
never sleeps, and this statement. though
made in another connection. might easily
refer 10 the fashionable half, which goes
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

NAL occasions. Black silk gloves are al
lowable in hot weather, but gloves must
always be worn out of doors with the
mourning costume. Dull jet jewelry, or
pearls mounted in jet settings may &C
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26
Useful Hints on Starching Clothes.

"HERE is a two-fold reason for the
use of starch. in laundry opera
tons. First the glazed surface OF
the starched garment keeps clean for a
longer period of time; second. the in
crease In body of the starched garment
causes it to resist moisture longer and is
considered more attractive in appear
anec.
The different varieties of starch vary
considerably in their ability to penetrate
fabrics. The reason for the use of rice
starch with finer fabrics Is because it
penetrates the pores of fabric more
completely than the other starches. and
gives a finer. smoother finish. Next to
rice starch in penetra bility comes wheat
starch. and corn starch is the poorest
of the three having tendency to lump
and show starch spots after ironing.
Rice starch gives natural, pure white
color to fabrics, while corn starch gives
q yellow color, and wheat starch color
medium between the two. When good
color, smoothness of surface, pliability
and q fine finish are desired wheat starch
gives better results. 1t is also said to
hold UP better in damp climates. but
corn starch gives greater stiffness or
body to a fabric. When It is desirable
to combine stiffness with neNbiiity ana
and wheat starch Is used.
Various substances are used with starch
to give 1t better color, to increase It's
penetrability and its pliabiity, and to
give it greater body and TO prevent "
from sticking to the iron. Among these
substances may be mentioned borax,
alum, wax, paraffin, turpentine. Kerosene,
gum arabic, glue and dextrfne boraA
in starch increases its gloss. AIDS In pre-
venting the starch from sticking to the
iron, Increases the whiteness of the
starch, and is said to give greater body
and q more lasting stiffness by It's use.
Alum Is used alone or with borax to
improve the color and to thin the starch
mixture. but too much of 1t is injurious
to fabrics. Wax, paraffin, turpentlne.
kerosene lard, butter ETC., are used 10
give a smoother, glossier finish. to pre-
vent the starch from sticking 10 the
ton Of moisture Gum arabic, glue and
dextrine are used with starch to increase
its stiffening power and are sometimes
used alone when the white color or starch
Is considered a disadvantage In stlHen-
ing colored fabrics.
In making starch soft water should be
used. and If the water is hard IT should
be softened with borax To make cold
starch one-fourth cup of wheat starch
to one quart of water gives a flexible,
light, durable finish. One-fourth cup or
corn starch to one quart of water gives
moderate body stiffness. One-half cup
of wheat starch to one quart of water
gives a flexible, firm finish. One-half
cup of corn starch to one quart OF water
gives q stir body finish. To cook starch,
first mix with a little cold water and
then stir slowly into boiling water and
thoroughly cook. If borax, lard. but
ter or kerosene are used they should be
cooked with the starch to insure thor
ough mixing.
To make rice starch take one-fourth
cup of rice to one quart of boiling
water. Wash the rice and cook in the
water until 1t Is a pulp Add more
water q Il evaporates to keep 1t up to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26
BLOUSE Of striped null and ratine

RI0I-sE Of striped null and ratine
~ has the front and back set in half
4 = inch tucks, which are hardly VS.
,ble as the stripe Is not affected. Tne
small. round collar is of rose ratine OF
the same color as the stripe. and TINS
is edged with narrow, handmade RUIZ
f,ng of white batiste. scalloped In white.
with tiny dots Of the rose. This erect.
elaborated by a row of pearl buttons. is
carried out on the strip down the center
front The sleeves have small cum OF
ratine. finished with the embroidered ruiz
fle and held together by two pearl out-
tons used in place of cum links. rms
blouse launders unusually well.
Many lingerie blouses are made quite
plain without tucks or hand-work OF any
description, but are enriched by collars
cuffs and few insets Of heavy lace
such as milan or Russian. An attractive
model is a long-sleeved kimono waist
made of sheerest linen lawn, with collar
cuffs and v-shaped yoke of heavy point
de venise lace, outlined with a full plated
ruffle of thin, hemstitched white net.
i
Colored crochet buttons are used or
many of the lingerie waists. new model
shows a thin blouse with the front shaped
like the bosom Of a mans shirt. made In
lace and tucks, with turnover collar OF
the same. Both collar and vest button
directly up the front with bright red
crochet buttons.
Net is a favorite fabric this year for
blouses. One of net supplemented by all
over batiste embroidery, the color Of both
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26

iERt. is no reason why tive
woman IN mourning should not
be- as comfortable in her black
garb as her sister who revels
in summary pastel tints. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26
e5IZZ7ZEP IEOLzRMlYc :~
sszw~C01W&rtdbk yet C&vect

be cool, thin frocks of chiffon thin black
silk, crepe de chine, dull black taffeta
and black dotted swiss. Dull jet beads
and trimming may be used with such
frocks. but bright jet is not for mourning
frocks. Tucks. hemstitching pipings and
buttons of the material or dull jet may be
used, and by all means have fuckers,
Jokes and sleeves in these evening and
house gowns of transparent net or chif-
fon. The Dutch neck is never worn out
of doors by the woman In mourning.
Only tall, neatly boned stock collar will
give the smart correctness necessary, and
the collar must be tall enough and care
fully enough fitted to the neck to prevent
any suggestion of the loose or sloppy ap-
pearance which Immediately makes mourn
ing commonplace. If the stock and yoke
are made of very transparent net or chif-
fon a double thickness of the material
should be used, for anything approaching
a decollete effect is in the worst of taste
with mourning costume.
White crepe neck fixings are becoming
and fashionable, and are worn even in
deep mourning. There are collars. cults,
jabots and smart little neck bows of this
white crepe, and sometimes black crepe
trimmings are added. Illustrated, is a
graceful collar of white crepe, trimmed
with deep hens of the material, and fas-
tening under a chic little bow of the crepe,
This crepe collar is shown with an elab-
crate mourning blouse of black net trim
med with hemstitching and appliuued
motifs of chiffon. The hat is made of
crepe and has a cluster of dull silk grapes
against the crown, In front of the big
crepe bow
The widows veil is as interesting in it's
way-from a romantic standpoint-as the
brides VEIL though one, alas. typifies a
loss of the happiness that the other SYM
bolizes. The widows veil is thrown back
after the first few months. but its grace
full. volumnous folds envelop it's wearer
for year at least. A perfectly draped
veil and bonnet for the widow are pic
tured. The bonnet is slightly larger than
an ordinary toque and is faced inside
with white crepe.
Boots and gloves are an important part
Of mourning dress. Patent leather, of
course, is barred, and gun metal or dull
calf footwear Is substituted. With the
street costumes dull calf buttoned boots,
or boots having buttoned tops of twilled
CLOTH are correct: or buttoned oxfords of
dull calf may be worn If desired. With
house and evening gowns, colonial pumps
with gun metal buckles. or buttoned boots
Of black suede will be correct. Dull black
kid or suede gloves are required for for
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

courtroom. Prosecutor Mott said: II
think that's ALL"
Mr.. McDermit-''Is there anything
more you wish to explain?'
MacFarland--"Wh ! don't know,
Mr.. McDermit," said the prisoner, in
clear. conversational tones, as If it
We're matter of not very great i'm
portanee.
McDern1it-"Is there any subject
that occurs to your mind?" Then,
turning to the court: Il had antici-
pated that the examination of the
defendant by the prosecutor would
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

be much longer. I am not ready to
go on"
Il am going to 80 on" interposed
the chief justice firmly. "You might
have known. Mr.. McDermit, that the
defendant must have testified on
nearly everything relevant to the
case in the nine hours he has been on
the stand"
Fighting for time. Mr. MeDermit
hit upon the stenographic report of
MacIarland examination at the
Fifth precinct. He asked permission
to read that lengthy document to the
Jury and was allowed to do so.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

1Oc Munyon's Witch hc
Hazel Sonp; special. w
&c Cosmo Butter e
milk soap; special. ~
Use white CASTLE sosp,
good grade; spe- 3Ac
CHI ..s......
lie Violet Ammonia,
large bottle; spe- Inc
cIhl .......,.. wv
he Bornx, lib. size,
20-Mule Team; spe- Or
cial ..........
5c Toilet Paper, white
tissue. rolls, spe- 3&c
clal ...-...,.. Wv
soc Rubber Gloves,
all sizes; spe- 15c
cial ............ SOs
25c Size sanitoI 11r
Tooth Pastei spec'l i@S
s1.O0 Size Lister SSc
inc; special ....".. oos
Bic Rose Peroxide
Cream. prepared ex- IQc
pressly for us; spec. ios
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17
YOU'RE BILIOUS! YOUR LIVER AND
BOWELS ARE INACTIVE "CASCARETS"

that is horrible and nauseating. A
Cascaret tonight will surely straighten
YOU out by morning-a 10-cent box
will keep your head clear, stomach
sweet liver and bowels regular and
make you feel cheerful and bully for
months.
Don't forget your children-ther
little insides need a good, gentle,
cleansing. too, occasionally.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

Toe Malt Extract II
large bottle; specl. ~
25c Size Rubi-
foam; special. .. aoS
25c TaIcum Powder.
none better; prepared
expressly for us, l. fSr
Id. box: special. -. ioS
12c Peroxide of Hy-
drOgen. the best, s Qr
o5. size: special -. w
25c Size Holmes l2c
Frostilla, special. ios
23c Quinine Pills, 2
gr.. 100 in bottle; JSc
special .......-,. oS
1Dc Egg Shampoo
Cream. large jar; 1Ar
special .,.....+., HS
zoe Bay Rum. best
quality, APT. size; 10r
special ....... @VS
1Sc Peroxide of Hy-
drOEen, the best, 10 I(lr
Oh. size; special. -. iVe
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

:l5c PIatt's Chlo- 10r
rides; special, at. oVS .
I0c Manicure Sets,
pocket size; special, n
at .,.........
15c Hair Nets, real
hair, large size, all g,1r
shades; special... AVt
soc Hair Brushes, good
bristle. solid ebony and
mahogany W o o d jOr
backs: special. o1e
soc Size OakIand's d.
OzOgen, S-oz. size; 1oc
special .... AoS
25c Size Laxative Bro
mo Quinine, spe- I1r
cial ............ AoS
2Jc Size Sal He-1Sr
patica; specl, at. hos
25c Size Cascu- f7r
rets. special. at ase
iac seihlitx Powders,
best quality. box OF f~.-
-; special. at. A1S
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

Furred Tongue, Bad Taste, 1ndiges-
tion, Sallow Skin and Miserable Head
aches pme from torpid liver and
constipated bowels, which cause your
stomach to become filled with undi-
gested food, which sours and ferments
like garbage in a swill barrel. That's
the first step to untold misery--indi-
gestion, foul gases, bad breath. yell
low skin. mental fears, everything
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

Mall and telephone orders
received, but deliveries free
only within the radius of
our wagon or automobile
service.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

On account of the great
amount of orders received we
cannot guarantee to fII them
the day following receipt OF or
ders.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser., 1912-10-17

We reserve the right to re-
strict quantities. All goods ON
sole while they last. On snIe
in department and ON Bargain
| Square.
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1912-11-21
AST0R TO WORK
FOR GOOD ROADS
HEIR TO 100000. 600 JOINS MOVE
MENT FOR BETTER LIFE
IN COUNTRY.

WASHINGTON. Nov. 2o.--vfncent
Aston. who recently reached his ma
jority. and obtained control of the
estate OF his father. valued approx
mately at 100000. 600. evidently in
tends following his fathers footsteps,
by Interesting himself In great move
ments designed for the greater pros
pertty and comfort Of the country.
Mr.. Astor Indicated In a note that
he felt that American Highway assoc
citation was working towards a real
and fundamental reform, one that
will improve conditions OF life in the
country. enabling country children to
reach the schools and churches In all
seasons of the year. and enabling the
farmers to get their products to the
shipping points even In the periods
during which the roads. under present
conditions. are now impassable.
In Joining the association. Vincent
Aston becomes associated with An
drew Carnegie, President Taft, Gen.
eral Leonard Wood. Thomas Nelson
Page. w. X. Vanderbilt. Jr., Logan
Waller PAGE. former President Me-
Crea. Of the Pennsylvania railroad;
Frank A. Vanderbilt. William q. Nc
Adoo. BENJAMIN r. Yoakum. w. w.
Finley. president Of the Southern
railway. and seventeen hundred other
leading citizens and public men.
The Richmond Virginian. (Richmond, Va.) 1910-1920, 1912-11-21
TODAY IS THE DAY
FOR WOMEN VOTERS

brought in In order to secure the votes.
The candidates should not fail 10 read
very carefully the list Of articles az
published from time to time, In order
that they may not overlook any new
entries. Tip Top bread was recently
entered. labels OF which are good for
nifty votes. This IL again mentioned,
90 that those who have not followed
UP the list carefully enough will not
overlook this opportunity to secure
votes. Several new entries will prob
ably be made in the next day Or 80.
Any number OF candidates are taxi
Ing advantage OF the opportunity Of
fered to secure the bonus az 5000
votes 10 be turned IN combinations a.
publtshed In Sundays and today.s Is
sues, some Of whom apparently are ex-
pertepcing dtfiiculty In securing vari-
Shine In order to complete this com-
binatf0n. Inquiry N the contest de-
paftment will furnish them names Of
dealers who handle name.
A announced In yesterday'a issue. 1t
ii requested that no vUtEs be brought
lin today To be- counted However.
those desiring to bring In votes can
do - tied up I'll bundle. some win
~ ccunted nrst thing FRIDAY motn-
~ ~