New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-09-29
FANCY SUITS

There T. n demand In the social life Of
the city for a street costume OF dresser
nature than the trottcur suit worn IN tie
morning for shopping and the constitu-
tlonal on the avenue.
For this suit there is o wido variety
Of materials to many Of which an intro
duction is required. The most popular
IS velvet. There IS the plain velvet mo
embossed. the brocaded, tho striped, nai-
row and wide--ln fact, velvet Of ever de-
qcript!on is the cry OF the hour. Sharing
the popularity Of velvet are plush, bro
caded silks and satins and The lovely new
.oft vo, liens. Some OF the most interest
ing NJ these thick woollon matcIIdlj are
Tho plaiu or mixed vclours dc lJiuc or
,yn y y.lours: pcau Jc chamOis aud pcIu
Z ac1eal. which IS slightly mo"- curly
I'm tho velvety nap than the former; cut
yolo,irs which is the wool velour. VITA
an undershot pin stripe; wool ertn-e.
known IN some places as tyl-tyl tho PLAN
and horchG wool ratinc, wool corduroy
and the matelassc silk.
The now skirts arc distinguished main
IL, BY plests or drapery. There are, no"
ever many skirts accompanying the
emsrtest Of Jackets which are perfectly
Main. or may boast a suggestion OF uIIn-
ming I'm the strapping, tho stitching %!
,be braiding which has been continued
from the Jacket. This continuation OF the
lines Of the Jacket on to the sklrt "hict'
has been so prominently brought out Al
the openings this fall, is really most inter
ostins II shows "A study of lines which rs
uou worth while The result is most be
con,ing TO the figure ana the results de-
uehtfully harmonious. The charm OF TINS
engagement IS clearly demonstrated III
tbe black velvet costume shown on TINS
mage. Here the braid, ia a bright royal
blue tone. is continued in effect on to
the skirt
Tho pleats. as has been often explained
in these columns. may be introduced in
various forms. but IN the heavier mate
rails the Kick plo0ts inlet at one SIDE
where the front crosses to the side, OF
nerhaps a pleut Ranking the front ana
hack panels. are about the only forms at
,empted In the more supple fabrics, the
brocaded fabrics, the ribbed silks, and
chiffon weight broadcloths, pleats Of va
r,ous kinds are found. The machine
nleated underskirt IL a mode very much IN
evidence for the handsome calling cos
fune. in supple material, particularly
OF the three-piece variety
! The Jacket OF the dressy suit IS increas-
/ ing in length all the time. In fact there
! is not much difference between the tor
, coat of three-quarter length, and the coat
/ OF the suit The graceful line of the cut
away is in highest favor, giving th'
greatest length in the back. Some OF the
more extreme styles show the fronts
reaching scarcely below the waist line
on the idea OF the Elton. with the Ions
tails OF the mans swallow tail evening
coat In the back.
The plainest Of these coats have a cuFi.
GUS cutting OF tho side or front portion
I which gives 10 them a distinction OH their
I own. 'the belt effect "a often simulated
! when IL 10 not an actually. Sometimes il
makes its appearance only I'm the front
again at the sides, but, in any event II -
a charming addition, which gives a de
cidedy youthful appearance.
on all the new coats the reyers and tht
collar are equally Interesting features
Tor edging them fur Is often introduced
| Again, the revers may be OF the material
with the narrow collar OF a broche stun
| When a color Is not brought IN on the
reyers II appears In the vest. which has
now become one Of the new style features
OF the season.
The sleeves follow the rules for tht
regulation ccet sleeves. being set into .
rnoderate sized armhole with no fulness
AZ "a rule, they reach to the wrist. al
though in the more elaborate costume:
the three.quarter sleeve is seen, finished
with lace, creamy or OF one II the meta
bues Some Of these sleeves are finished
with a cuff. others have the braid OF th'
straps. which form the ornamental feat