davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1912-02-16
Arizona a state.

AS the White House clocks were strik-
ing 10 Wednesday President Taft signed
the proclamation admitting Arizona to
the union. He used a gold pen which is
to be given to Postmaster General
Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1912-02-16

Help for the miner in his dangerous
vocation is promised by a portable cleo
trio lamp, which has just been patented
by man in New York.
Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1912-02-16

Playing cards, when first introduced
into England were looked upon purely as
holiday pastime
Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1912-02-16

When people begin to say to woman,
How young you are looking" it's a
sign she is getting old.
Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1912-02-16

MELISSA: go
The only our I ever had any luck with
is Gold Medal Flour. LUCINDA.
Evening star., 1912-11-03

fabric, and the blouse of plum-colored
attn matches the fabric of the suit eX-
actly. Stock collar. tiny yoke, feNers
and graceful iabot are of shadow lace,
and the sleeve frills are also OF this beau
tiful lace. detachable collar of white
crepe de chine may be removed when the
blouse is worn under the coat, and smart
among the frills Of lace vent and
sleeve.
The coiffure in this illustration Is also
worthy of note. The hair is softly waved
and very simply arranged on top OF the
head. but it makes Il charming frame for
the face-a most important point when
the face is no longer young.
Another illustration shows an admir-
able one-piece gown FOR everyday wear.
This gown has simple, digntied lines and
the materials are smartly md plea singiy
combined. 1t will be noted that the skirt
falls well over the feet and thai at the
top the bodice is softened by a transpar-
ent yoke of fine white net. The woman
past thiIty-iive is always very unwise to
swathe her neck in dark colors-unless
the fabric is airy ard soft. like malines,
tured is of black with embroidered
epaulette of gray silk on the shoulder
This epaulette trimming lightens the
black color and together with the gun
metal buttons and steel-trimmed belt
gives the gown interest and style The
draped bodice over a sleeve and under
bodice of black satin is an admirable no.
| tion.s
Far more important than gown. suit or
| blouse is the corset that makes the
| foundation for the outer garment. Few
| figures at fifty retain the straightness
| and slenderness of youth. and really
good corset will immeasurably increase
Evening star., 1912-11-03
Short Cuts for Housekeepers
Cleaning Suits, Coats, Sweaters and Flannels

the material place it in tub. cover
with boiling water and allow the goods
to remain in it until the water coois.
Hang the goods straight on a line. and
when partly dry press on the wrong side.
To wash an article made of ice WOOL.
or shetland wool. put tablespoonful OF
borax in a large basin of warm water.
let it dissolove then make a strong
suds of white soap. Wash one article
at time through the suds, rubbing and
squeezing gently, but never wringfng.
Rinse in warm water, the same tempera-
ture as the suds, until free of all soap,
then lay lightly upon a clean sheet
stretched in the sun, and turn 1t about
many times until dry, always keeping II
in a loose pile. When quite dry. hold
for a few minutes i'm the steam of a boil
ing kettle. 1t will come out light and
fluffy By not wringng or hanging, but
drying in the pile. there is no fraying
or stretching out of shape.
To wash fleece-lined hose, turn them
wrong side out and place them in borax
water. Now rub white soap over them
on both sides and wash in the usual
manner for stockings. Now turn the
stockings and wash them on the right
side Rinse in water and dry I'm the
house This method will keep them soft
and fleecy..
Evening star., 1912-11-03
LATEST IDEAS
FOR THE BABY

g OFT suede makes delightful shoes for
- the little one, and 1t is quite a simple
matter for a mother, with little prac-
tice. to make them herself, and to- deco
rate them with tiny flowers or leaves
The stitching should be done on the ma
chine. and the pattern quite simple. so
Sits may be cut round the top through
which 20 run ribbon laces. Slippers may
also be made at home. and those or
white velvet with tiny head bows are
pretty for best wear Then there are
little washable slippers Of white. piqus
which are suitable for house wear or for
warm wea ther.
A combir alton toilet case may be made
of rubber-lined moire silk, pink and blue
in color. containing the following toilet
articles for baby: Combs, brush, ear
sponge, talcum powder, soap, absorbent
cotton, gauze, vaseline, sponge and wash
cloth. When the case is closed, two in
side flaps lit over the fittings, and snap
buttons hold the front and back i'm posi-
ton. The edges are reinforced with pink
braid. When the case is closed, it is
very compact, regardless OF the fact that
it contains all the articles mentioned.
combination screen and baby rack is
fitted with pockets for baby clothes, bath
supplies and toilet articles. 1t may be
made of fine rubberiZed cretonne. the
poles being white enameled wood. TIE
cretonne Is fastened to the poles and
crossbars by bows of ribbon. There are
nine pockets. five medium-sized and four
large. 1t would be difficult to imagine
a more convenient article than this to
hold the baby's wardrobe and to serve as
a screen when giving baby a bath. A
baby tree, fitted with arms upon which
the baby's clothes can be hung, would be
a handy adjunct.
Evening star., 1912-11-03
Dressy B1ouses for Winter

drawn tightly about the shoulders, oh
scuring fully two and half inches of
the top Of the sleeves. 1t is edged around
with double row of self-cOlored fringe
and caught at the corsage with cluster
of tiny pink ninOn de sole rosebuds. Lit
tie blue enamel buttons are set in a
straight row down the middle of the tiny
yoke. which. like the collar, is made of
Honiton lace.
\ pretty white crepe meteor blouse has
a modified Robespierre collar which lies
perfectly fiat in the back and is deeply
pointed in front. A shallow yoke across
the back extends over the shoulders and
holds in place the gathers, back and
front. The opening is in the middle of
the front box plait down which run
eleven little pearl buttons, and on either
side of which spreads a wide frill of ac-
contemplated hemstitehed crepe meteor.
smaller frill outlines the deep, stitched
cuffs of the long sleeve.
A sheer white blouse, Well made and
tucked by hand, is always smart. Such
blouse may have fronts and back close
~ pin tucked in V shape, with entire
deuX used to join the shoulder and arm
hole seams. The standing collar and deep
cuffs should be of the material tucked
around instead of lengthwise and both
Siiaply finished by hem. Small pearl
nuttons and handmade buttonholes
should fasten the blouse at the back.
frllls and jabots may easily be adjusted
II less severe appearance is desired.
70 clean the lace collar of a dressy
blouse without ripping it off. place under
the lace a clean Turkish bath towel fold
ed to several thicknesses, then dip a soft
toothbrush in warm, soapy water and
scrub the lace well. taking care not to
touch the body of the blouse. After the
soap has been used brush with clear
water. The towel underneath will absorb
all the dirt and much Of the water. Put
the blouse on a coat hanger to dry.
Evening star., 1912-11-03

and brown. blue and green or some SINH
lar combination. the contrasting shades
showing in the ribbed weave when the
sweater is stretched over the figure.
These silk sweaters are also most con-
venient for wear under a motor coat, and
they seem to take up no room at all, for
all their warmth and scoziness. No fabric
except fur or leather will really keep
out the cold when motoring in winter
time, and under the biggest, warrnest
worsted-woven coat a sweater is usually
necessary for extra protection against
searching winds. The pretty girls who
are making ready to attend the big foot
ball matches this month are providing
themselves with knitted silk sweaters in
their favorite college colors, and If the
day proves bright and sunny the motor
coat may be removed part Of the time at
the game so that the loyal colors may be
seen.
Most sweaters intended for cold weather
wear have now collars which may be
turned up snugly around the throat Two
OF the sweaters illustrated today have
this arrangement. One is double breasted
and buttons down the left side, a straight
deep knitted band encirclfng the throat.
The sweater on the standing figure is
new model combining q comfortable v
neck with knitted hood and collar,
which may be drawn up when desired.
After the hood has been adjusted over
the head buttoned flap holds the cross
ed revers snugly over the chest and
throat This sweater has trim, well
shaped proportions and the deep hem or
border at the lower edge, slashed at the
sides, adds new trimming note.
The knitted motor hood accompany
ing the double-breasted sweater Is made
of old blue worsted and is becoming as
we'll as delightfully."- warm and cozy. II
is lined with soft old blue silk and is SO
shaped that it may be adjusted grace
fully over the head, while the long ends
twist about the neck. third sweater
and hood to match are of angora-the
most expensive but the warmest kind of
wool. AHgora sweaters are as light as
thistledown. yet as warm as toast, and
are much worn in Canada, where out-of-
door sports demand garments that permit
of free movement yet afford thorough
protection from the cold. This angora
sweater is white with brown markings,
and the hood. with its turned-back Dutch
flap. is of brown angora Sweater and
hood are worn with pleated skirt of
heavy brown homespun having knitted
woolen bloomers beneath. Pleated skirts
are ideal for active out-of-door sports,
and one is thankful they have come
back. to fashion. Sometimes bloomers
of heavy silk or of mohair are worn un-
der the skirt instead OF a petticoat.
though the skating girl realizes the CO.
Evening star., 1912-11-03
The Becoming Hat Of Paramount Importance
Boots and Gl0VeSaS Youthful as OnePleaSeS
Rich Fabrics and Subdued Tones the Older
WOman'S Wise Choice - The COiffure.

aged instead of the ranks of youth: no
more being bored by things that have
lost their interest, lest one be accused Of
the attitude of the middle-aged. One Is
fifty and admits it, youth is past, but
there is long time ahead to enjoy the
things that make the world worth while.
and unhampered longer by strenuous
effort to be youthful. one may have as
glorious time as one pleases by just be-
ing ones self.
x x
The draped skirts. graceful, not too
severe coats, flowing wraps and mod
crate hats of the moment are especially
becoming styles to women past first
youth. Severe effects of all sorts should
be avoided after forty. The mannish
tailored suit, heavy-soled tramping boot,
neglige shirt with four-in-hand tie and
untrimmed soft felt hat are all very well
for the fresh young girl to whose rosy
prettiness this rigid garb lends certain
pfcturesqueness. but such raiment on a
woman over forty makes her look like
every atom of grace and charm. Soft
colors. soft, gracious lines and soft. rich
fabrics are the requirements of the older
woman, and never did current styles fit
in more perfectly with middle-aged needs
than they do now.
The tailored street suit. for instance,
that is pictured on today's page-could
anything more graceful, more charming
and more appropriate to its fifty-year-o.d
wearer be conceived? The suit Is made
OF plum-colored broadcloth. and though
the lines are in perfect accord with the
modes of the moment, they are not ex-
treme in any way. The coat is loose and
Evening star., 1912-11-03

triye to keep up the semblance or youth
by ler manner of dress, by her move
ments and actions and by innocent-or
less innocent-artifices of the toilet: but
at fifty she must yield to the inevitable,
and il is wise woman who yields grace
fully and makes charm her winning card
instead of physical attractiveness. At
forty her intellectual powers are at their
best. her interests are keen. her SYM
pathies are-or should be-broad, the en-
joyments of life in the way of music.
hooks. art. the drama. travel and the
like are all for her. and she is not yet
so lost to feminine coquetry that matters
Of dress have not still a Zest.
Breeding intelligence, sympathy,
charm-these and not physical attri-
butes are the qualities that make the
woman of fifty adorable, and at this
balcyon age one may at last relax and
be gloriously ones self, No more striv-
ing TO look younger than one knows one
is. no more worrying about ones hats,
gowns and wraps-lest they be too old, "
setting one in the ranks of the middle
Evening star., 1912-11-03
FIounced Dresses.

INDICATIONS point to an increasing use
1 of various fiounce effects. One of the
favored styles for developing the fiounce
skirt is the use of slightly gathered
skirt yoke in conjunction with two twcn-
ty-seven-inch dounces. Some of these
gowns have the fiounces in velvet, plush
lace net. charmeuse or chiffon. The three.
piece skirt has scant fiounces about
eighteen inches wide. They are cut in
curved outline, the center front being
shorter than the back measurement
These founces are not held In as straight
a line as formerly.
Flounces that border on the circular
effect and form a ripple are making their
appearance, but they are scant and cling
closely to the figure. Accordion piaits
are very good for these fiounces. as they
require no trimming. which would accen-
tuate the broken lines, and they Mt SO
snugIy to the figure that the straight eff
fects are closely adhered to.
Evening star., 1912-11-03

4 1ARROW bands of ermine, mole and
IN other short-haired furs are used On
the collars, sleeves and in trim
ming arrangement on the fronts of dfeSsy
waists Fur bands are used in some cases
in the upper section of the sleeve to hold
the extra fuilness or. drapery in place, or
in simple arrangement to produce
trimming effect. Other styles show the
fur bands at the edge of the sleeve. The
collar trimming usually takes the form
of an edge, around the ,Robespierre col
lar or the fiat directoire collar which ex-
tends over the shoulder.
An attractive blouse is fashioned in
water-blle chiffon. The foundation is, of
tulle in the same shade, and the chiffon
fichu is arranged in quite IAN unusual
manner, being rounded in the back and
Evening star., 1912-11-03
New Tailored Waists.

g TRICTLY tailored waists have the
- characteristics of the mannish
shirts in the high, soft. turnover col
lar and cuffs and welted seams. Wash
able crepes de chine, heavy China silks
and madras have narrow colored stripes
on white groundwork, such as brown
Dutch and navy blue, wistaria purple
and amber. Buttons of colored glass
or amber composition are very effective
used for the front pleat closing when
they match the stripe of the silk.
White pearl buttons are also used
Soft-finished taffetas. messalines and
sa tins are usually of the same color as
the coat suit. as well as black. Many
of these models are plain, but both
striped and plated patterns are also
seen. The groundwork of Scotch plaids
is usually blue, brown. green or black,
with a plaided design in vivid shades of
red, green. blue or yellow. The stripes
on these dark waists are in shades OF
red, purple. taupe. yellow and king
blue.
Evening star., 1912-11-03

wearing the plaided Scotch mackinaws
trimmed with fringe. These coats are
made Of Scotch plaid rugs and though
trifie too picturesque. for street wear
in the city. they are very attractive
against campus or country background.
The mackinaw is short and requires
warm skirt beneath it for winter tramp
ing. The college maid scorns rubber
overshoes, which really do take all the
joy out of tramping, and wears sturdy
laced boots Of tan leather with broad,
rather low heels and sole that lifts the
foot we'll above dampness. new tan
leather, much liked for all-around out
of-dOor winter wear. may be cleaned With
ordinary soap and water The leather re-
sists the water, which removes every SOIL
and stain spot from the surface without
in the least injuring the color and luster.
These boots come in the smart buttoned
styles as well as in the heavy laced mod
els for winter tramping in the country.
Evening star., 1912-11-03
NOTES AND NOVELTIES.
Ruttoued-On Hair.

EALSE tresses are SO frankly worn
nowadays that nobody need feel the
least sensitiveness about donning what
ever Is necessary for becomingness in this
line. The latest French coiffure resembles
the old-style French twist of the eighties.
the hair being rolled over at the back in
a long vertical roll and pinned fast with
an immense curved comb also worn YER
.ically. The new twist. however, sug-
gests a loosely arranged coiffure rather
than the hard, rigid effect of past
geneIation, and the front hair IS grace
fully waved and drawn down to cover
brow and ears. Foreheads must not show
at all, according to Paris, and there are
fringes and other devices which are used
to cover brows too intellectual in height.
The most interesting of these is the but
toned wave. This is long wave of hair,
something like combed-out pun, which
js attached over one ear under a big
shell button pin, combed straight across
the top of the head and the forehead. as
the small boys foretop used to be Sunday
mornings, and fastened on the opposite
temple with another shell button This
forehead wave Is, of course, matched to
the natural hair, and it mingles with the
waves of natural hair at sides and back.
Plaid Silk for the Little Girl.
A SMARTLY dressed child lunching al
one of the large hotels the other
day wore a frock of black and white
plaid taffeta in quite bold plaid pat
tern. The plaid was used on the bias
and the little frock had pleated skirt
and long-waisted bodice separated by a
softly knotted sash of black velvet rib
bon. A big sailor collar of black SATIN
covered the top of the bodice, and over
this was a smaller collar of very fine
machine embroidery, edged with cluny
lace Cuffs of the black satin with over
cuffs of embroidery finished decidedly
chic little frock.
Evening star., 1912-11-03

graceful, and the wide, low collar and
fiat revers of silk give a touch of grace
and dressiness, and also soften the ef-
feet at the neck. Most we'll dressed
women of fifty or whereabouts prefer the
three-quarter sleeve under which long
wristed glove is drawn softly over the
arm. Such sleeves are much more be-
coming than long. rigid coat sleeves that
meet short glove-especially when the
figure is not slender and youthful. The
Evening star., 1912-11-03
The OLZ- u2Z)o0p Girl
III UIZnLer

quetry of dainty white petticoat under
her swinging skirt With many of the
velvet rink costumes the prettiest petit
coats with sheer embroidery fiounces are
worm but, of course, such petticoat
goes over warm knitted tights of wool.
tRinkersp are worn by English, girls
for skating and all other winter sports.
The. ..rinker Is a knitted sweater ribbed
closely at the, waist line and also at the
Evening star., 1912-11-03

loose, three-quarter sleeve gives q wrap
suggestion to the coat and is, more
over, much easier to draw on and Off
than the long. clOse-fitting coat sleeve.
Gloves of embroidered silk which come In
lustrous texture heavy enough for Win
ter wear with muff are worn with these
open sleeves for they are easier to draw
on and off quickly than long-wristed kid
gloves. a very long glove worn I'm well
wrinkled mousquetaire style on the wrist
Evening star., 1912-11-03

IFTY is not old. In
these days when
no woman thinks
of ''old age" as
anything u n d e +
eighty or ninety.
fifty is really lit
tie more than the
halfway point. But
neither is fifty
young. At thirty,
even at forty. a
woman may con-
Evening star., 1912-11-03

n FTER all. there is nothing quite
~ like "A knitted sweater for all
"a round comfort. 1t fills the bill
Il n completely-so far as protection
from the cold is concerned-and
il has convenient way of smuggling un-
der the arm or rolling itself nicely out of
the way when not needed for immediate
use which its would-be formidable rival,
the mackinaw, cannot hope To initiate.
Last spring everybody was prophesy-
ing that the mackinaw was going to oust
the long beloved sweater from favor but
no such thing happened-the sweater was
far too firmly established in feminine
hearts 10 be banished for any other gar
ment whatsoever and the dozens OF de-
Evening star., 1912-11-03

The Hockey Girl Must Dress Warmly
hut Lightly.
hip, so that it clings to the figure and
emphasizes the curves of the waist. bust
and hip. 1t pulls on and off over the head
and is slashed a little way down the
front and closed with buttons. There is
a trimness about the rinker which APP
peals, to the sEnglishwoman who adores
anything that fits tight. but as Yet the
rinker has not become the vogue in
America.
College and boarding school girls are
Evening star., 1912-11-03

To successfully wash fannels. take
two-gallon pail of cold water and add
one-third bar of any good soap except
naphtha, dissolved. and one heaping ta-
blespoonful of borax, also dissolved. Stir
cold water. dissolved soap and borax well
together and put in the f1annels. Let
stand two or three days. and then rub
the soiled parts lightly with the hands,
rinse twice in cold water, wiring, dry,
shake and dry quickly. Flannels washed
in this way do not shrink, remain soft
and wear longer Blankets washed In
this way never mat, but remain fluffy and
shawls. jackets or caps washed in this
way and dried on a sheet. not hung UP.
in a warm place, will be like new again.
. When necessary TO shrink fannels, fold
Evening star., 1912-11-03
Plaid Silk for the Little Girl.

Plaster casts may be cleaned by dip
ping them into cold liquid starch, which
can be brushed off when dry. The dirt
will be found to come off with the starch,
Evening star., 1912-11-03

Boots are another important considera-
ton They should be smart and trim
and they may even be coquett!sh and chic
If one pleases. FOR charming foot and
ankle is the last beauty point that wom-
an gives up, and there is no reason in
the world why the woman of ffty-or
even sixty. should not wear dainty foot
wear indoors and out. Button boots or
satin or kid with high Cuban heels and
turned soIes are in best taste with for
NAL gowns. and for the street buttoned
boots of duh calf or OF patent leather with
dull kid or cloth tops should be the
choice.
The woman of fifty or thereabouts may
wear jewelry of distinction, but she
should avoid cheap ornaments. Hand
some earrings are permissible, a brooch
and an odd or individual lorgnette chain
will add elesance and distinction to the
dark costume.
Evening star., 1912-11-03


4 stiff brush dipped in gasoline, then in
cornmeal and rubbed over any soiled
Worsted garment will clean and freshen
it
If a sweater is very much soiled first
shake out all the dust, then drop 1t into
slightly warm water and stir around.
Use clean, warm soapy water, with
teaspoonful of borax, and gently souse
up and down, and If there are any greasy
spots rub soap on the hands and manipu-
late the sweater. but do not allow any
soap to come in contact with the sweater.
Rinse in three clear, warm waters and
add a few drops Of bluing to the final
water. Now press out. place sweater in
a large pillow case and suspend the four
corners by large pins over a tub for
three days: then spread on a sheet in the
sunshine for a day or two until dry.
This method is followed by expert
cleaners.
To preserve a clear whiteness, silk and
woolen underwear must not be washed
in hot water or with other garments, and
must be rinsed in medium warm water
and dried indoors The goods should not
be sprinkled for ironing. A disregard of
these rules will result in yellowing the
goods. and there is no known method of
restoring the former whiteness Silk and
wool material will not shrink much IL
this precaution Is taken. Cotton and silk
should be washed in like manner and
never boiled. If washed in hot water the
silk turns yellow and soon rots