The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1912-10-16

One may choose between grace and
j%auntiness in selecting the winter hat
for formal occasions. Both charac-
teristics are seldom seen in the same
model. Either the shape is enormous.
~ large and rather flat. with soft in
definite outlines. and trimming ar
ranged in picturesque. becoming eff
that requires utmost distinction Of
bearing. or great piquancy and charm
of personality to. carry 1t of success.
fully. -.
In the latter class come the derby
crowned hats. which are stiff affairs
of beaver with round crowns and
hrims curling up the least bit at the
sides while they droop decidedly at
front and back. Such a hat would be
trying to the .loveliest face and only
the tall woman with some presence"
and perfect poise should affect such
a hat. Usually a single loog feather
sweeps backward over the edge. OF
h brim and downward to rest on
The shoulder. This increases the i'm.
pressive character of the hat. but
makes it yer more difficult to carr
was seen at the. Ritz last week with
a ~directoire gown of black char
meuse; accompanied by ~high-heeled,
buttoned. black satin boots.
In amazing contrast to these Lady
Gay-Spanker types Of millinery are
the .foppy brimmed models of soft
fabric which throw a shadow Of
charm and mystery over the plainest
face and make a pretty woman en-
trancing. Yet. strangely enough, there
are women who are distinctly dashing
in the Lady Gay-Spanker sort Of head
gear. vet look foolish in a dropping
picture hat. 1T is all in the person.
atty" asserts one clever little mil
liner in New York; in the person.
ality. and the type. The face and fig
ingness and suitability Of a hat. It
must suit what its wearer is. as we'll
as the physical tributes with which
she has been endowed"
Beautiful Picture Model.
And among the most beautiful of
the picture models is a Suzanne Tall
bot hat. just arrived, to complete an
October t%rousseau. This hat is built
OF very soft black panne velvet and
has a low. draped crown which is
large enough to At well over the head.
the brim is a facing of black tulle-
a wire frame. the velvet dropping
brim by two inches or SO. Under the
brim Is a facing Of black tulle. not
layer of tulle. but ten layers. each
layer extending beyond the brim to
the edge of the velvet. The effect Of
the velvet and soft padding of black
tulle dropping about the face is ex-
qeuisitely soft and becoming. The hat
Is trimmed with three thick. soft black
ostrich feathers poised at the side in
the Prince of Wales arrangement.
Feathers are paramount. It will be
a sad winter for the ostriches-in the
way OF adornment. for surely every
one that has a tail-feather has been
bereft Of It. to provide plumage for
my lady. There r long plumes
are short, autr y tips Ma,s' that cur cur, ' over
the crown of the hat. There are
feather wreaths and pompons and
brushes; feather quilts. feather wings
ever feather tassels. OF all the
feather trimmings. the paradise plum
age has gone up SO high that those
trimmings are out OF the reach Of the
average woman. and. of curse. this
ness.
The feather tassels r new and
particularly interesting. The hat briln
flares upward and away from the
face. and at the apex Of the flare IL
poised an ostrich pompon. Depending
from the pompon are long strands Of
the ostrich which are brought down
WV ~ va ttbC iIht lItF uIItib
n caught fast. the ends of the
strands spraying tassel-wise W the
hair and sometimes over the forehead,
almost into the eyes. Even more
unique than this arrangement is thu
boa plume. which first e%ncircles the
hat and then reaches down ove the
edge OF the brim. and encircles the
neck in becoming boa fashion. When
the boa becomes too warm indoors.
the long plume is flung back and fall;
anywhere from the waistline to the
knee. according to how much one has
paid for ia pretty penny. as may
he IMAGINED.
Felt Has Second plare.
Felt has been reiterated to second
place this winter-that IL. II il used
for utility and ~tnoctabout hats. but
seldom for models intended for for
NAL wear. Such hats are built Of VEL
vet. of plush. or taf"ta and MORE silk.
of gold lace and other rich fabrics,
more or less draped and arranged over
graceful frames. The shapes OF thu
picture hats are astonishing. Few Of
them are alike IN both sides. the roll
Of the brim being usually much more
pronounced at m side than at the
other. And nine out of ter hats have
rolied-up brims: the decided mush-
room shape 10 the exception. and fear.
full and wonderful are sone OF the
roll -brim effects. These hats do not
anneAr aa 1aPRA "a thew pNal1v ara