The San Juan islander. [volume] (Friday Harbor, Wash.) 1898-1914, 1912-06-21

l
gives the majority of women the
chance to let their fancies and their
desires play.
| We are in danger from too much
liberty, rather than restriction When
women are allowed all kinds of fash
ions they are usually addressed, which
sounds as though uniform were the
most acceptable law of clothes; but
what l mean Is this; that only the
minority of women have good taste
and know what to wear and how to
wear it, while the majority are indif-
ferent or obstinate or uniformed.
| When strict rule is laid down for
them they are apt to follow it with
some measure of success, but when
they are allowed to choose for them
selves out of a multitude of things,
they naturally turn toward the things
that do not suit them. When they
get something attractive and becom-
Ing 1t is often an accident.
| The woman who is careless about
her choice of clothes is the woman
who can be counted upon to add to
the addressed ones of the nation. If
she does mot care whether her clothes
fit or not, if she is Indifferent as to
whether they express her individuality
or not, if she is casual about their
matching anything she has, then she
Is pretty sure to continually select the
thing that is least suitable.
| ic f0 70
half Of the variety of fashions that
are allowed women this year. The
salient features of the season are hip
draperies. Directoire coats and col
lars, slim skirts with trimming adjust
ed so that it does not add to the
lines. the V-shaped corsage, the fichu,
and the fancy girdle.
| You can see for yourself how op-
posed these are to each other for one
can imagine nothing more incongruous
than panniers and the long Directoire
coat. Yet women can choose from
among these dominant styles and also
from many others that are chiefly
known by the name mid-Victorian, and
which mean ruchings and plaitings,
velvet ribbon and shot taffeta, Topping
hats, elbow sleeves and plated
f1ounces.
The incoming tide of long sleeves
bothers women quite good deal. Few
want to wear them, and every one es-
pecially objects to their arrival along
with the warm weather. 1t is true,
they are very filmy and cannot add a
feel uncomfortable in the same way
that a high stock does. One is irri-
tated when covered with any kind of
material over the neck and wrists in
hot weather
Use Of Long Sleeves.
The new sleeve is a problem that
must be taken up by every one. 1t is
not necessary to have it; fashion al
lows of latitude there as elsewhere. If
you are set against 1t and insist upon
short sleeves, you can use the loose
three-quarter one In street garments
and the tight elbow one in the house.
This does not alter the fact that the
long sleeve which snugly fits the arm
at the shoulder and at the wrist Is the
leading fashion. It is made In va
riety of ways. If you like to look real
ly old-fashioned and at the same time
show that you are quite new-fashioned.
you should adopt the foremost style.
which is long shoulder that drops for
| two inches over the arm, a~s1ightly
full sleeve that is gathered into the
armhole, a piping or thick cord to
! hide the gathers, then a tight four
inch cuff fastened at the back and ex-
tending well over the back of the
| hand
This is the sleeve used by Nine. Pa
quin and others of her standing in
Paris, and has been followed since last
| September by those who dress in fas-
tidious way. It has not been known
to the general public or taken up with
any degree of warmth until this
spring. 1t was an experiment in Paris
last autumn, and all the houses over
there used it, but did not insist on it.
The American women did not like
it, but the French women were de-
lighted with it. They are not very
keen about exposing their arms or
their necks, except in the evening in
private houses or at the opera; it Is
the Anglo-Saxon race that cuts out
the neck and cuts OF the sleeves OF
every blouse with the least possible
excuse.
The boned collar and the wrist ruf.
fie are adjuncts to every Partisan cos.
tune; the elbow sleeves and the Dutch
neck are definitely American.
To return to the making OF long
sleeves; it is not necessary that they
should begin with the long shoulder
that falls on the arm. The armhole
may be put In its normal place, only
It must err on the side Of being a lit.
tie longer than usual.
Whatever else this long sleeve has
It must not have flare at the wrist: