The Washington herald., 1912-08-22
FROZEN CUSTARD
MAY BE DELICIOUS
If One Understands Art of Making
and Freezing 1t.

There are not few reasons why pic
mic ice cream-which is worlds different
from Philadelphia or pure ice cream-i.
poorer than it needs to be. In othel
! words, there are many reasons why q
frozen custari may be very poor.
First, it may be very unattractivt
looking. Milk. when frozen. will no,
stand firm as long as congealed cream.
Second, II may be very fat and favor.
less. This will not be because it wa.
not favored, but because the favoring
was put in hot, and the most of it evap-
GRATED in the cooling. The favorins
should be put in after 1t is cold. and
fruit fiavcrs should not be cooked into
any kind Of a cream. To put in salt to
correct the fiat taste of the milk may
be risky, but a little grated lemon peel
may be substituted.
Third, IL may be too sweet-unctuous.
An excess of sugar may not only be dis
agreeable to the taste. but 1t delays the
freezing of any cream, especially in
hot weather, and so makes the task
harder. But, on the other hand. II loses
sweetness in freezing. so must be sweet
enough. A sherbert freezes more slow
ly than a cream, because of the. sirup.
II more eggs are added to a mixture of
cream and custard to take the place of
more cream, more sugar is required.
Fourth, II may be coarse grained-al-
most the worst fault Of all IL it is very
much so. This may be because too large
proportion of salt was used. so that it
was frozen in too short a time-it is de-
sirable that frappe be so frozen and be
granular, but not ice cream. The less
salt the slower the process always and
the finer grained the product
Chill Freexer Eir.f
Another reason why such a cream
may be coarse grained is that neither
it nor the can into which 1t was put
were chilled before the freezing began,
so that 1t curdled or granulated at the
beginning of the process. Besides, II
they are not SO chilled the freezing-the
drawing of the heat all out OF the mix
ture more than putting cold in-is much
harder.
And yet another thing that may make
the mixture coarse grained may be the
hlling the can too full. The mixture in
creases in bulk during this beating and
the start should not be more than three
fourths full. The crank must be turned
slowly at first, but more rapidly later on
when il quickly grows harder to turn.
1t is easy, then, to see why picnic ice
cream. IL not made with great care and
attention to all these details, is poor. II
almost all of these reasons are operative
1t is equally easy to see why We should
have deplorably bad lice cream
For freezing ice cream one-third as
much salt as ice should be used; for
packing, one-fourth as much. A water
ice loses its coldness sooner than ice
cream, SO that 1t must be thoroughly
protected from warmth and evaporation.
The ice cream we are likely to praise
as near to best is not a frozen or corn
starch custard, but one made by putting
together equal parts of a rich custard
and whipped cream, freezing it, and al
lowing it to stand for some hours to
ripen.
One of the most troublesome parts of
making ice cream-breaking up the ice
may be made easy If the ice is put in a
coarse bag (burlap or canvass and crush
ed with heavy mallet or the side of
an ak. Unless the ice is finely crushed
the mixture of ice and salt cannot be
as even and effective as 1t ought to be.