davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

OF those worn by the much-ad-
mired Dolly Warden, are among
the most favored of the seasons
modes
These have most fitting setting at
garden party. whore they display un-
usual charm in natures playground.
with box -bordered paths and beds filed
with brightly colored flowers.
The garden party, always popular in
England. Is gradually gaining favor
here as a summer amusement
A woman never looks more lovely
than she does AT a garden party
Attired in light. fiowery gown. with
. becoming hat WHICH softly droops
about the face: and a pretty sunshade
TO complete the. costume. she leaves
nothing 10 be desired.
The foremost designers of Paris lave
made a special feature OF the flower
frock. From among these the lovely
models pictured here have been selected
with infinite thought and consideration
for the woman who does her own sew
ing.
Thev are charming and may be easily
duplicated
nv AioCh VIII the bIVdu ItNcIS - VI
lowered taffeta, white background
with pale yellow and blue flowers
The V-shaped yoke is Of softly shirred
white mousseline de sole. Long close
httiag sleeves fall well over the hand.
The skirt is cut double. with the top
drawn up below the knees TO form
slight puff
The revers and girdle are OF tobacco
brown taffet..
Simplicity Itself is the gown OF fow-
cred lawn with the surplice- draped
bodice.
The guimpe worn with IL is Of sheer
est white linen. About the neck line
and through the sleeves narrow velvet
s drawn and tied In fiat BOWS.
deep nounce finished with a band
OF putting borders the overskirt.
The waist line is defined By a band OF
putting
Powered dinlity in tones of rose fash
ions the dress with he black collar
cite
The perfectly plain bodice Is una
dorned. save for the collarette OF black
tulle and white lace.
Three fat. black velvet bows trim the
front
frill Of tulle finishes the sleeves.
Black velvet Is used for the gtrdle
The model with the open parasoI
wears n frock OF white lawn with n
design OF old blue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23
Embroidered Sashes

with the return Of the dicectoafo
w fashions comes the inevitable
w sash. Most women win welcome
this fact. for sashes greatly improve
any frocks with which they are worn.
Black velvet or satin b the material
most favored for the sash-gird1s.
The wide waist belt II 6ormsd Of soo
folds The long sash ends are Of o0d
lengths, falling from the side o. back
OF the dress. These ends may b en-
broidersd with plain black. OF In cosors,
using an Arabian design. The oornsSs
may be rounded or cut diagonal. Fringe
IL sometimes used to border tho ends.
A charming sash 70 wear with shoes
lingerie frocks was OF palest pink satin.
the arst tint from ths ivory-whits. TAis
was pleated IN soft folds about the
waist and caught - the LETT sids by
q garland Of smallest pink and blus
rosebuds ana collage fashioned q RIB
bon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

The broad sailor collar is Of tucked.
plain blue lawn. bordered with a band
OF the same
A V-shaped chemisette OF dotted net
fills in the neck of the bodice.
Bands of plain blue border the wide
mouthed sleeves.
Two bands of blue adorn the skirt
the lower one much the broader. The
waist belt is made of the plain material.
This frock would be most effective in
tones of Sose.
Back Of this is charming design Of
lowered taffeta
The square yoke is OF white NOUS
seine de sole. outlined with a pleated
frill of black net.
A frill of net finishes the long sleeves.
Two wide bands of putting produce
pretty finish to the skirt.
This costume may be duplicated in
lowered dimity, lawn. organdie or chif-
fon.
The narrow sash is OF black velvet.
tied at the side with a long loop and
two ends.
Next to this IS design which may
he copied at little cost.
Powered lawn Is Used with ruff1es
and puffings of the same material as
trimming. A shallow sailor collar, bsr-
dered with a ruffie. is used to finish
the y-shaped yoke
A broad girdle OF dark blue satin
completes the delightful effect.
II will be a difficult task to choose the
most artistic OF these designs. All are
lovely and worthy OF place in your
wardrobe. Two or three would not
come anliss. whether you spend the
summer at home. abroad, in the noun
tains or at the seashore. They are ap-
propriate for any place and all occa-
sions.
Why not have q Dolly Warden dress?
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

fected vogue for the moro SNOWY pom
padour patterns. These. In SILK ana 10
chiffon. are employed for dressy costumes
in combination with lace nounces ana
pannier ideas.
Bordered chiffon and marquisetfe are
used for many lovely dance frocks.
For quite young girls there are marrow
belts Of black patent kid, having at back
and front small insets OF suede In calm
plaid designs and colors, and buckles OF
the trunk type in glitter GeEmah silver.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23
FADS AND FASHIONS.

Field flowers are much used this sea-
son.
4 fine corded linen fftS-four inches
vide is being largely used for automo-
pile coats and is also especially smart
or- embroidered linen dresses.
Separate blouses of white tullc hand
tucked and made in tailor fashion, are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

effective when worn with tailored suits
Of taffeta or satin.
A great use OF lace is now the feature
in lingerie gowns.
Never were there so many white shoes,
so many kinds.
Some new upright collars taper TO
points behind the ears.
Entire dresses of taffeta with sprig
patterns have made their appearance.
and have been corded and Ipched With
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23
FRENCH FASHION
NOTES
PARIS, June Is.

PARIS. June 49,
A T ALL the fashionable race meet
~ ings of the season, whether at
4 - Auteuil. Chantilly or Longchamps.
the display OF gowns has been beyond
anything witnessed during previous
races.
Among the most interesting toilettes
here is one specially noted.
Straw-colored mousseline de sole was
used for the skirt It was shirred and
trimmed above the hsm with two rows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23
- e 6rfb& HQyEl4D RkBlY9A[NIl@ " y :
4TH OF JULY DISHES.

We need deliberately to study our festival
occasions They great possessions which
we are allowing TO 20 To waste They could
be made the focal points for large streams Of
social life. LUTHER II. GILICk.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23
MENU SUNDAY.
BREAkFAsT.

MENU SUNDAY
BREAKFAST
Strawberries au NaturRi
Cereal
Bacon. Ouriette.
Corn Gems
Coffee.
DINNER
Asparagus Soup crontons.
Young Onions. Radlshes-
Roast Lamb. Mini Sauce.
New potatoew with Parsley.
Kohl Rnhi.
Lettuce with French Dressing
Celery Pie. Cheese.
SUPPER
Cold Roast Chicken currant Jelly.
Creamed Potatoes.
Romano Salad
Baking Powder Biscuit treheated).
Currantf. Lady Baltimore Cake
Iced Tea.
FOURTH OF July PICNIC MENU.
Cold Fried Chicken
Dev1ed Eggs. Baking Powder Riscait
Radisnes. Homemade Pickles.
Bunker Hill Sandw iches
Fourth Of July Gingerbread
Nantucket SprinKies. Lemonade
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

an admiration Of the Byron collar, cut
wide In front and rolling sides and back.
Just now the Dutch collar and turned
back cuffs are very popular.
The popular combination for street wear
Is blue and cafe-au-lait.
Streamers are added to some Of the dig
bows set at the back of large hats.
Because of the vogue of the toile de
.Jpux= effect thexe-ha been SORT Qf.Es-.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

OF ostrich feathers Of the same shade.
over this was draped tunic OF cream
lace
A sleeveless jacket Of shot paille tat
feta was trimmed with medallions Of
applique taffetas and embroidery.
The tght-fftting sleeves OF the bodice
were of straw-colored tulle. A row OF
tiny black buttons extended from the
wrist to the elbow.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

knees and producing q decided pannier
effect at the hips.
The jacket followed the Russian blouse
lines, drawn together at the waist by .
belt.
Below this fails . shaped founce
edged with a narrow fringe.
The round neck was cut rather low
and bordered by the same fringe.
This Jacket was without sleeves. show
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

pale stein matching a particular color In
the design.
Colored parasols with wide borders OF
black velvet are smart
The colonial pumps, always pretty, are
still worn to a large extent and are
shown in canvas with both the high and
low heels.
A present mode that Is likely to infiu-
ence the coming fashions is the favor
shown the quaint loile de JQuXS patterns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

pleated tulle, almost cover. the entire
blouse and are most attractive to wear
with dresses Of silk, linen dimity or the
finer materials.
Leghorn hats are gaining In favor each
day. They are banked with flowers,
trimmed with feathers or eyelet embroid-
cry.
The Apache is a collar designed for
summer wear with coat or with the neg
| lige type of blouse or dress Despite
its name it is nothing more: naE4esa than
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

A largo hat of silky black picot,
adorned with q fringe OF paille feathers
about the brim, completed this stunning
costume.
Another gown equally as attractive
was Of shot fawn and rose-colored tat
feta, with an air of Louis XVI COM
bined with a touch of Restoration.
The skirt was gathered around the
waist. forming a pulled tunic at the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23

which this season have been reproduced
in taffeta, in silk mousseline and In chif-
ions.
Some Of the new linen suits are made
with norfolk jackets and have six pock-
cts, two on each side of the coat and two
on the skirt.
Plain shoulder cape f1chus on coats are
often of light-toned silk.
Deep cape collars OF sheer linen. en-
bEoideIed and sdge4 With a EptRe Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23
A Ginger and Lemon Fourth of July

Roll q dozen lemons. then slice into an
earthen jar. covering with two and half
cupfuls OF sugar. Let stand an hour I'm
the ice box or on the cellar bottom. then
add one cupful Of currant or red rasp-
berry Juice and two quarts OF ginger ale
Pour into glass pitchers or punch bowl
over q block Of ice, add a few slices OF
lemon and sprigs OF bruised mint and
serve.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-23
Cold Drinks for the Fourth.

OF course. there will be big demand
everywhere for cold drinks in festive
gJise as well as the cakes and other
goodies long associated with the proper
observance of Independence day" es-
pecialIy for the children. and first Of all
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1912-12-15
Gold Bar Pin Sets

Plain, Engraved, Engine-turned
and stone set effects, In three pin
sets
Sc, $40, SIS and up to $50
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1912-12-15
Toilet Sets

Sterling Silver and Partisan Ivory
Toilet and Manicure Sets and sep
crate pieces
The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1912-12-15

"The pleasure children get out Of Christmas r
the whole world better"
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20
TAN SHOES In VOGUE

TAN shoes are again In fashion. That
light putty color which was so
much in fashion IN France last winter
and which one feared would become
fashionable here is fortunately missing
All the Russian tans are used in
pumps, IN oKfords and In two eyelet
ties Buckles still take precedence
over ribbons. except In the oxford and
on pumps.
True. a wide number of women pre-
fer the more or less huge buckle on
their pumps. but you VIII notice that
the we'll dressed woman who Is smartly
turned out in every detail win wear
the plain pump. with its dst bow Of
corded ribbon. such as the men wear,
no matter what its heel
Buckles tightly belong to slippers.
but there is no breach of good taste in
choosing one Of kid. of gun metal or. OF
Japanned metal on a pump Of duh kid.
II one wears patent leather slippers
with Spanish heels then the buckle may
be OF silver Of gilt or Of cut steel. but II
IS TO be hoped thar American women
viii go back TO their original method
and keep this brilliant footwear OF the
streets In the morning hours.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20
PETTICOATS MUST FIT TIGHTLY

to pass through the proveroial wedding
ring. Novelty silks make a somewhat
smarter effect than the plain ones. and
some odd ways of trimming the bot
toms seem delightfully."- novel and SEN
sible. None of the trimmings is put
on the outside OF the skirt The bot
toms are cut up into square blocks,
and scalloped or shaped IN deep points
along this treatment underneath scant
frills of the same material or plated
ones Of lace are set This arrange
ment is far prettier when the outside
skirt Is slashed than II the plating
were put outside, making the skirt
seem a more dress up affair.
For fine evening use the petticoat
often seems more elegant than the
dress. With a French gown of white
satin worn at one of the recent dress
shows the accompanying petticoat was
Of thin val lace under flesh chiffon.
The lovely thing had plenty OF oppor-
tunity of displaying its charms. as the
outside dress. which was a sort of prin-
cess robe. was slashed at the two sides
up as far as the knee. Yet the two
articles were to be sold separately
Other elegant petticoats are OF thin
silk stockinet with the bottoms ex-
quisitely trimmed with fine laces and
wee artificial flowers or ribbon. A
chiffon flounce over lace and decked a,
the edge with trail of fragile flowers
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20

IF q woman thinks she can be smart
without considering the lines and
material OF her petticoat she Is very
much mistaken AS skirt foundations
are still almost as tight as bolster slips
the underskirt must be of the softest
fabric and made to At like skin.
For best street wear the upon. as
the French call this article. Is made
oftener Of crepe de chine than of silk.
The skirt is gored closely over the hips
and fits about the waist without a
gather. thin plated lace in vandyke
points or deep fringes trimming the
bottom. The skirt matches the gown
or else the color OF the hat for. as
many outside skirts are slashed at the
sides or rounded up over the instep. the
petticoat frequently shows.
A skirt for solid wear is a plain tai
lored affair OF black satin without a
stitch OF trimming. this fastening at
the left front with snap fasteners such
as are used on gloves A white satin
skirt in the same model. curiously
enough, is offered for linen coat suits
in any color or white The satins used
for these underSkirts are of the softest
and finest sort, but women who have
tried them declare that they are worth
their price
Among the silk petticoats softness of
weave is everywhere seen. and the
scant little skirts seem delicate enough
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20
Serve These With the Cup of Tea

Another good form OF sandwich. made
this time OF conventional slices of
bread. requires four heaping table,
spoonfuls OF minced chicken and three
OF mayonnaise. A cream dressing can
be substituted for the one OF oil Spread
the mixture on three squares or OBJ
longs OF whole wheat bread and cover
with smaller pieces or chop fine some
blanched almonds, toasted. but not
sailed. grind them In the meat chopper
or crush in a mortar and spread be-
tween delicate squares OF buttered
bread
For a single sandwich-that Is. hav-
ing but one slice of bread In its com
position-this combination OF ingredt-
ents Is considered choice: Over a dozen
large plump olives pour boiling water,
allowing them TO stand a few minutes.
then drain and put on the ice. Now
chop fine enough pimentos to form a
teaspoonful OF the mince. Chop the
olives and add the pimentos with one
tablespoonful OF fine cracker crumbs.
Crush all the mayonnaise and spread
on shapes cut from thin. rather stale
bread
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20

is quite a common sight-in fact.
among the party 1upons.
The petticoat which will wash and
serve for every day and look well and
not cost too much is made in a number
OF dainty cotton textures Bingham,
seersucker and calico appear in these.
but the new weaving OF these old fab
RIGS bends to the present needs. no
material seeming the clumsy thing IL
was of yore Black and white is al
ways a good venture for the wash cot
ton underskirt, but II milady wishes
she can have one to match every coll
ored frock IN her wardrobe Folded up
on tables or hanging about. as the case
may be. the dainty colors OF these
skirts and their pretty stripes. checks
and figures are very inviting. although
one needs to have a good model in even
a cheap cotton skirt
Wash silks and pongees are among
the other tub textures displayed by
petticoats IN good models and fairly
cheap, and women who like very soft
skirts favor these with lavish purchase
ing. For hard use the pougee or WASH
silk skirt is always self trimmed. mar
row bound frills being considered the
most washable furnishings. A good
pongee pettiooat can be had for Sc.
Well made models IN the striped
French caIico0s. seersuckers and ging-
hams cost from $3.50 up.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20

THERE are many tidbits delicious for
serving with the social 6 O'Clock
cup which are unknown TO the average
hostess.
Unless one keeps well abreast of the
times accomplishments are apt to be
limited 10 shop bought waters OF a con-
ventional order or cakes. frequently
oversweet
without robbing the occasion OF its
principal charm by making a formal
reception OF Il and serving an elaborate
repAst II Is possible TO discover new
things and TO meet the variations of
individual taste.
For instance. the dainty finger rolls
may be split lengthwise and the soft
crumb IN one half removed. The hol-
low thus formed Is TO be filed with
cream cheese softened with q little
whipped cream. Put the two halves
together and tie with bebe ribbon or
tinsel cord or some finely chopped
walnuts may be stirred into the cheese
which is to serve as filling. with or
without the addition Of minced olives.
Again. the following mixture. which
IS just a trifie more elaborate. viii APP
peal TO many palates:
One roll OF cream cheese. a teaspoon
full Of pimentos. chopped fine. and q
full tablespoonful OF mayonnaise The
olives should be chopped by hand Nix
and use as above
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20
FUMED AND GOLDEN OAK

ONE hears so frequently nowadays
the terms "fumed oak and gold
en- oak" that the question naturally
arises as 70 the meaning Of the terms.
The best golden" effect Is obtained
with what Is known as Quartered oak.
the log being sawed in half and then
these halves sawed in half again. max
ing quarters. Each of these quarters
IS then sawed at right angles with
two sawed sides parallel with the bark
side. this giving the flakes OF the woods
In their greatest area and beauty. The
wood Is then filled and stained. None
Of this treatment, however. affects the
flakes. which show up a golden yellow.
especially after the varnish coats have
been applied
"Fumcd oak" is oak that has been
treated with the fumes OF ammonia.
The effect " the ammonia is 10 dlrkeu
the wood. and Il also cuts the grain.
ruughIug 81 up. After the wood has
been treated with the fumes OF the am
mouiI IL Is sandpaIercd down and
stained or waNcd. as the case may be.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20

THE shirt waist is one Of the gar
ments worn at all seasons. but is
in special demand during the warmer
months Here are two costumes that
show waists of quite different sorts.
In one case there Is a separate waist
worn with a tailored skirt. while In the
other there is q gown Of the pretty and
quaint Powered taffeta that makes
such a feature of the season
The costume at the LEFT shows one
OF the simple waists that are always
smart II can be either tucked or gath
cred at the front and made with a
shaped or plain yoke at the back. and
the sleeves can be finished with rolled
over or straight cuffs In the waist
illustrated the material is madras. and
the rolled over cuffs and collar held by
links are used. The waist is an ex-
ceediDgly smart one The skirt Is made
in three pieces that are Tapped on 70
panels. and these panels can be made
Of contrasting material. as in this
instance. OF OF the same material band
ed or trimmed in any similar way The
overiapped points make an especial
feature
For the medium size the waist will
require az yards OF material u inches
wide. "a yards IS inches wide. . yards
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20

tiful set Of white enameled furniture
seen in the Illustration. The lines are
simple and good. and the yellow and
brown rag rug that adorns the floor
makes a delightful background for the
cool white furniture.
In furniture for outdoor porches and
living rooms wicker is the most popu-
lar. Chairs come in almost every
shape, from the stiff. straight variety
10 a couch chair. a particularly desir-
able shape for comfort being an adap-
tation of the old English wing chair.
This has a high back and wing shaped
extensions to the sides. with a writing
rest arranged on the right arm and a
magazine pocket on the left arm
The latest couch chair is somewhat
like a luxurious morris chairnRnd is
fitted with a very low seat. an adjust
able back and a foot rest arranged be-
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20
Recipes From Here and There

Fill the center OF the omelet with cook
ed and well favored rice. into which
mix the chutney finely chopped and
little curry sauce also II liked. Fold
the omelet, allow II to get nice golden
brown and turn carefully out on an OBJ
long dish. Pour some curry sauce pre-
viously heated round the omelst and
serve quickly.
Cinnamon Cake.
Take the yolks of six eggs. six table,
spoonfuls OF sugar and a small tea
spoonful OF ground cinnamon and put
them all in a saucepan. Beat the mix
ture for half an hour without changing
the direction and at the end of that
time add TO IL the six whites OF the
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Sift in
six tablespoonfuls OF -four and bake the
cake in a moderate oven in q fiat
CREASED tin.
Orange Shortcake.
One quart of flour. two teaspoonfuls
Of baking powder. one-half teaspoonful
of salt. one-half teacupful OF butter.
one-haf pint OF milk Take half of
this and roll half inch thick, place in
a dripping pan and spread with but
ter. then roll the other part and put II
on top OF first. Bake in a hot oven.
Peel. seed and slice thin eight oranges
and add enough sugar to make them
sweet Place these in the cake as soon
as it is taken from the oven Serve at
once.
Imitation Pumpkin Pie.
The following is a unique form OF ap-
pie pie. which tastes and looks much
like pumpkin pie: Crate some rather
sweet apples. and for every three APP
pies use q cupful OF sugar. two eggs. a
teaspoonful Of powdered ginger. a scant
tablespoonful Of mace. also powdered
and nalf teaspoonful of grated nut
meg. Beat the grated applies with the
sugar and spices. then stir in the eggs
Bake with an undercrust only.
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1912-07-20
To Whiten Clothes.

To WhIten Clothes.
ITO whiten clothes which have turned
a bad color try the following plan:
Prepare a solution of pipeclay and
warm water and soak them overnight
in this. Then wash and boil next da;-
in the usual way. and they will come
out looking as fresh and white as when
new.
New Blinds.
When mailing new blinds on the roll
ers try mailing a length of tape on TO
the roller with them. II this is done
there is no chance of the blind tearing
from the roller.
For Jap silk.
Many people do not know that II Jap
silk is stitched with cotton instead OF
silk the seams are not so likely 10
cookie in the wash. This Is OF great
saving when ironing.
To RemoVr Creases.
When clothes have been hanging in
the wardrobe for any length of time