davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08

tinct influence on the tendency Of fashion
The Court liked 10 copy the smallest de-
tail or whim of His Majesty or Of the
princesses who surrounded him-for ex-
ample, trains owe their origin to the fact
that the daughters of Louis IN. had ab-
normally large feet.
The wife of Philippe III. was afflicted
with tremendously long neck, so she in
vented the high Suimpe. 1t was because
La Belle Ferronniere had a burn exactly
in the middle of her forehead that she
wore over the cicatrice the charming
jewel held by a fine thread that is called
IA Ferronniere TO this day. In the reign
.of Henry II. some princesses who suf.
fered from goitre hid the blemish beneath
their high futed ruffs, and disguised the
crookedness of their shoulders under the
puffed sleeve.
Anne of Austria wore short sleeves be-
cause of her beautiful arms: Louis XIV.
brought the wig into fashion because he
was afflicted with a wen ON his head.
Nine de Pompadour created the vogue
of high heeled slippers to hide her lack
Iof inches. The Empress Eugene had
very beautiful shoulders; so she set the
fashion of a decolletagc which left the
shoulders bare and set them of 10 the
best advantage.
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08

{ bined veil and hair ornament will be found
in these old engravings ornamenting the
coiffure of Circassian and Tartar beauties
in almost exactly the same effect, but the
daintiness of the standing brilliant orna-
ment here is distinctly French.
In describing the gowns shown On this
page that with the light waist and dark
skirt is frankly Russian, though the
basque, usual to the Russian blouse, has
been omitted. The upper part is dis
tinctly on lines peculiar to that country,
in the effect of the sleeves being separate
and part Of an underneath blouse, the
Icollarless neck and outlining fur bands at
neck and wrists. The color contrast of
this frock is extremely pretty. A skirt
of peacock blue Ielvet and white panne
velvet blouse, embroidered with sprays
done in blue, recalls the skirt color. A
matching band of fox fur encircles the
skirt hem.
In another photograph an elaborate
gown, with its gold metallic brocadc and
fur, has that air of barbaric elegance
seen in so many ceremonial costumes
The gown Of gold brocaded tissue is wound
about the figure over an apparent Alencon
lace foundation. The basqued blouse is
indicated in front by the line of the chif-
fon tunic banded by fur, and the manner
in which the corsage lace is draped re-
minds one vaguely of the lines of the peas
ant chemise with its flowing sleeves.
Heavily embossed gold grape motifs
fasten one side Of this lace drapery, but
at one side only, repeated again on the
skirt. The flowing tulle veil and brilliant
hair band and ornament already men-I
toned add to the general regal air.
The other evening gown is of a gold and
green brocade. The corsage is a usual
draping of needle point lace and lattice
brilliants, and the whole gown seems to
be idealized on the lines of peasant girls
holiday costume-an impression of color
and spacing only perhaps, but still carry
ing out curiously the idea. The head
dress, with beads under the chin, is shown
on this figure.
The wrap that is worn with the first,
evening gown, though drawn about the
figure by the wearer so that the shape is
lost, is nevertheless Of the so called dolman
type and the exact shape of those which !
were worn in the provinces bordering on
the Volga. 1t is capelike wrap, neither
kimonO nor yet dolman, made by length !
ening out the kimonolike sleeves more
gradually toward an opening for the
hands to pass through.
This garment drapes into beautiful folds
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08
How Some Bygone Modes
Were Created.

If the most noteworthy trait in the
fashions of the present day is an eclec.
ticism which permits no one dominant
tendency TO hold sway, the reason may
perhaps be found in the fact that while
Paris undoubtedly sets the fashion for
the whole feminine world, Paris is the
capital of France and of the French Re
public. Formerly, under the Empire, or
when there was a king on the throne of
France, the sovereign's wishes had dis
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08

diagonal seams, which should show the
new machine kemstitching, which is done
for ten cents a yard The half oblong is
laid fat, then the bracelet OF silk. which
a circle. is laid in the centre of the raw
edge side Of the lace obong and tackled to
the lace. When this is taken up and
placed about the neck it falls in the pref
tiest pleats imaginable.
The little vests of satin and silk that go
about the neck to protect the coat lining
and I'LL up the open space at the neck. are
made this season with standing collars in
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08
New Winter Neckwear.

T CLEVER way mas been devised tC
IA arrange lace jabots quickly about the
neck, which not only facilitates their
adjustment, but adds to their attractive
ness. This is narrow three-fourths inch
bias band of some bright color that encir-
cles the neck, fastened by a snap button
at the back. In front there is a little
bow made of two dog ear" pieces of satin.
and the lace jabot is attached to this band
in either narrow or wide fashion, which
ever is most becoming and suitable to the
wearer.
One of these lace jabots falls in the
loveliest fashion imaginable. 1t is made
from an Alencon net lace, about nine
inches wide, and in shape is like an oblone
half of a handkerchief. This makes two
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08
ADVOCATE OF PEACE.
NV YoRK. Saturda

NEW ORK, Saturday.
" RRIVING in New York to-day. the
~ Baroness Bertha Won suttner. who
has spent almost five months in this
country, travelling il all parts and speak
ing often several times a day in tie in-
terest of peace, will be ftted by various
organizations and meet engagements for
lectures until she leaves for her home, in
Vienna, next Saturday.
The Baroness. who is seventy years old,
shrinks from no hardship in carrying out
her mission. Frequently during her tour
in the West and South she has started
! Immediately after lecture, travelled
twentyfOur hours, lectured again and
started at once on another railway jour
ney. On one occasion her manager pro-
tested, saying can't do this; it
will kill you" 'Oh, no." replied the in
defatiCabIe peace apostle. "A long trip
| by rail rests me. No one can get at me
and have time to think"
! Erhe Baroness Won Suttncr won the
Nobel peace prize in 1905. She was a
friend of NobeI's, and was instrumental
| in influencing him TO establish the series
of prizes which bear his name. She is
member Of the Governing Board of the
Bureau of International Peace in Berne,
and founder and president of the Austrian
Peace Society. the executive members of
which last spring established the Suttner
League for the purpose of strengthen
ing and perfecting the lifework of the
Baroness.
Since the Baroness came to this country
last June war has broken out in Europe
and even her own country has been
threatened with it.
Still she has gone on preaching peace
and believing that it is coming nearer IL
the time. So winning is her personality
and so brilliant in utterance is she that
she makes tremendous impression upon
her audiences.
Tomorrow evening at the banquet to
be given for her at the Astor Hotel Mr..
Andrew Carnegie will preside and Mr..
Joseph Choate, DR.. Nicholas Murray
Butler and Mrs. Anna Garlin Spencer
will speak. On Thursday afternoon she
will give her famous address, Lay Down
Your Arms" under the auspices of the
Peace Society of New York. She will
also speak during the week at Columbia
University, before the Brooklyn Institute,
the League for Political Education and
the Germanistic Society, which she will
in German, in Miss Spence's
school and in the home of Mrs. Elmer
Black
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08

as the wearer moves her arms. Taupe
colOred satin forms the upper part of
this garment, veiled by taupe mousse
line de sole having a gold embossed
brocaded design; the lower part is of
matching velvet. A fringe of this pretty
mole color outlines the separation be-
tween the upper and lower part of the
coat and an outlining fox fuS follows the
lower edge.
Russian coat lines are transferred to q
modern gown in a most coquettish fash
ion in the green velvet afternoon gown
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08

shown here. The skirt has decidedly more
fulness than ordinary, especially at the
back, where it has also an added panel
caught down by ornaments. Across this
skirt two skunk fur bands mark imasl-
nary Russian basque lines. The blouse
with its collarless neck and long sleeves,
has the typical fur bands on the neck and
cuffs and braid ornaments on the front.
A new fashion in hairdressing is TO be
uoted in two of these pictures, evidently
an indication of the revival of the fore
head fringe, when sometimes the front
half of the hair was cut to make the
pretty curled locks. This is done in the
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08

fashions seem to be bid
ding for popular favor during a seasol
a third or fourth style may suddenly ap
pear. The lingering of Oriental detail
and stuffs through several seasons, a!
seen in many gown and wrap models
has commingled with the new Greel
draperies and there have resulted many
good examples of both. But now, witt
the proverbial fckleness of fashion, q
third style has suddenly appeared il
Paris that will no doubt have a very
considerable success, because it is espe
cially suited to winter and to many
types of figure.
This late season style innovation is
Russian, and is brought out in the latest
models. Weird patterns in the fabrics OF
gold and silve- thread are noted, the
peasant blouse, the dolman-ike wraps
and quaint head dresses. 1t is a good
fashion fault, however, to have different
types of fashion lines to choose from dur.
Ing a season, for then there is more
chance for individual gowning, as there
are more models from which to choose.
Then, again, there is less chance of
an Oriental type of woman ordering a
Greek style of dress or a woman to whom
Russian modes are becoming choosing
ultra-Oriental styles and fabrics.
Of course, when one says that Russian
styles have returned the remark must not
be taken verbatim. 1t simply means that
for some reason or other the French dress
designers have been Influenced by the
various national peasant dresses and &C
cessories of the different provinces, both
ancient and modern, and have used ma
terials, colors and details of them adapted
to the present times and customs.
Take, for example, the simple detail of
the Arrangement Of the pearl necklace in
the hair in one photograph. 1t is arranged
60 that half of it makes band over the
coiffure and part hangs under the chin.
In old Russian costume plates this string
of beads will be found worn by the peas
ants of the northern and central part Of
that country, hung from earring to ear
ring, and not only one chain, but often
several. The chain on the hair is modern,
for the costume books only show the
peasant with a cap on the head, which
was, however, frequently trimmed with
bead strands as decoration. The COM
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08
Golden Embrodres Fringe TYPICAL the Slavic


several of the latest models. One of soft
white bengaline silk, stopping, like the
other models, several inches above the
waist, buttons down the centre front with
tiny brilliants. jewel set, and has a stand
ing collar thai does not meet in front by
about three inches. Both collar and vest
are mined with black
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08
Photo Copyright. 1912
Exclusive Conyright. 1917, NeS

photograph successfully, for this fringe
is very becoming.
The Washington herald., 1912-12-08

ASHTON has a way Of
changing over night that
startles at times even
those whose pleasant duty
it is to chronicle the pass
ing modes. Even when two
E,.-L;o.. Eao,, m ha hid
The evening world., 1912-11-15
SURELY SETTLES
UPSET ST0MACHS
"Pape's Diapepsin" Ends
Indigestion, Gas, Sour
ness and Heartburn
in Five Minutes

Really does" put bad stomachs in Or
der--''rcally does" overcome ind gestion,
dyspepsia, gas, heartburn and sourness in
five minutes-that-just that-makes
Papc's Diapepsin the largest selling
stomach regulator In the world. II what
you eat ferments into stubborn Jumps,
you belch gas and eructate sour. undi.
gested food and acid; head Is dizzy and
aches; breath foul; tongue coated; your
insides filled with bile and indigestible
waste, remember the moment Diapepsin
comes in contact with the stomach all
such distress vanishcs. It's truly aston
shing-almost marvellous, and the Joy
is its harmlessness.
A large fifty-cent case Of Pape's Dia.
pepsin will give you q hundred dollars
worth Of satisfaction or your druggis,
hands you your money back.
It's worth its weight in gold to men and
women who can't get their stomachs reg,
ulated. 1t belongs in your home-shoult
always be kept handy in case Of a sick,
sour, upset stomach during the day or al
night. It's the quickest. surest and most
harmless stomach doctor in the world.
The evening world., 1912-11-15
POl|CEMAN'S C|RTH
SAVES LIFE As CAR
KNOCKS HIM DOWN
He Is Rolled Along the Street
Fifteen Feet Before Troll
ley Stops.

Tho broad shoulders and generous
girth OF Policeman Peter Roland OF the
West sxty-eighth street station saved
him from death under q trolley car
early to-day.
He was on fixed post at sixty-slxth
street and Columbus avenue and
stepped behind an IL" pillar to let a
taxicab turn into the avenue from
sixty-sixth street. As he started for
the middle of the street again north
bound Columbus avenue car struck him
full in the face and knocked him down.
It was going 90 rapidly Motorman
Walter HAkel could not stop II for
fifteen feet. The policeman fell in front
Of the fender. but he IL 80 large II
merely rolled him along until the car
halted. A smaller man would have
been carried under the wheels and
crushed.
John whalen Of No. rs West One
Hundred and Forty-sixth street, ran
to the policeman's aid, ana calling a
taxi from . stand nearby carried him
to the police station. where DR.. Ohler
Of the Polytechnic Hospital attended him
Roland has q badly battered nose and
many cuts and bruises all over his
body. His uniform was ruined. Bul
ne insisted on being taken to his home
No. 4a West Fifty-seventh street I,
was decided the accident was unavoid
able and no arrests were made.
The evening world., 1912-11-15
ENTERTAIN W. H. CRANE.

CINCINNATI, Nov. B.-w. II. Crane.
the comedian. was entertained at the
Business Mems Club yesterday after
noon. In commemoration OF his fftieth
year upon the stage and OF his first APP
pearance In this city In 1862. Among
the more prominent persons present
we're:
Judge Hoffshelmer, Dr. Frank b.
Cross. Judge d. d. woodmansee, Sam
uel w. frost, Jefferson d. Livingston.
w. +. Wiley, w. A. Stuart. NJ. u.
Moch. Russell Wilson.
The Glenwood post., 1912-02-03
SPORT.

Harry Trendall will fight Willie
Richie, the Chicago bear cat," in
Pittsburg, February 3.
William (Billy Delaney, known all
over the world as famous trainer of
pugilists, died in Oakland, Cal.
box Joe Rivers twenty rounds before
Los Angeles club on March 18th.
James Mature has again won tho
state billiard championship of Colora-
do from Arthur Endicott, by score of
so to SO.
Eddie Johnson, Rocky Mountain
champion, and Rudey Unholz, the Boer
fighter, will go ten rounds February
10th at Pueblo, Colo.
Plans have been perfected for select
ing team of fifteen speediest skaters
in the United States and Canada to
make a tour of the Canadian, Western,
Middle sates, New England and East
ern Skating Association districts. The
team will be selected In qualifying
races.
A twenty-round bout between Frank
Klaus, the Pittsburg middleweight,
and Ed Petroskey. navy seaman will
has done good work in the ring, will
be staged in San Francisco next
month if negotiations begun by Pro.
moter Jack O'Connell are consummat-
ed. O'Connell holds the February fight
permit.
Jack Curley, manager of Jim Flynn
and promoter of the fight for the
heavyweight championship between
his man and Jack Johnson, is in Salt
Lake City making preliminary ar
rangements for the battle. Curlcy
says that no site for the fight had
been selected and that the date had
not been definitely settled. There is
possibility that the fight may go to
New Mexico, in the event that no ac.
ceptable proposition is forthcoming
from Nevada towns.
The Glenwood post., 1912-02-03
H|GHER-UPS TO
SHOW HANDS
sECRETARY OF AMERICAN FED
GRAFTON OF LABOR BEFORE
FEDERAL GRAND JURY.
OTHERS MAY TESTIFY
MUST SHOW DISPOSITION OF Nc
NAMARA BROTHERS. DE-
FENSE FUND.
Western Newspaper Union News Service.

Western Newspaper Union News Service.
Washington.-To divulge the dispo
sition of the Mcnamara defense
fund, Frank Morrison, Secretary of
the American Federation of Labor,
and Henry H. Flather, cashier of the
Riggs National Bank, the depository
of the Federation's funds, have left
Washington for Indianapolis, in re-.
sponse to subpoenas to testify before
the federal grand jury investigating
the alleged dynamite conspiracy.
Each man, with records, will ap.
pear before the federal inquisitors.
Department of Justice officials are
reticent as to whether other national
labor leaders would be summoned.
The investigation at Indianapolis, it
was admitted by officials here, had
been broadened SO as to encompass
all who may have had knowledge of
the guilt of the Mcnamara brothers,
prior to their confessions, or that OF
others engaged in the unlawful trans
portation of explosives.
The Department of Justice, it de-
veloped, had invoked in the grand
jury inquiry the federal statute i'm
posing a heavy penalty for the con-
cealment of knowledge of felony
from the properly constituted authori.
ties.
This statute, coveringc the crime
known as the "misprision" of fel-
ony, provides:
Whoever, having knowledge of the
actual commission of the crime of
murder or other felony, cognizable by
the courts of the United States, con-
ceals and does not, as soon as may
be, disclose and make known the
other persons, civil or military au-
thority under the United States, shall
be fined not more than $500, or i'm
prisoned not more than three years,
or both"
Officers of the Department of JUS
tice were disinclined to discuss the
application of the statute, declaring
that everything depended upon the de-
velopments at indianapolis.
The other statutes invoked at Indi-
annapolis refer to the unlawful trans
portation of explosives and the gen.
eral conspiracy statute making it a
crime for two or more persons to con-
spire to break federal law. "The
misprision of a felony" section, it is
said, could be applied to knowledge
OF violations of the other two laws.
The Glenwood post., 1912-02-03
CONDENSED RECORD OF THE
PROGRESS OF EVENTS At
HOME AND ABROAD.
FROM ALL SOURCES
SAYINGS, o o IN g ., ACHIEVE.
MENTs, sUFFERINGs, HOPES
AND FEARS OF MANKIND.
Western Newspaper Union News Service.
WESTERN.

Nels P. Anderson, keeper of the ZOO
In Riverview park, OmahA, was gored
to death by buffalo bull
The third international aviation
meet at Dominguez field, Los Angeles,
has closed, having lasted nine days.
Assistant Fire Chief Robert Wolfe
was killed, one fireman was severely
burned. and property loss totaling
100000 resulted from a downtown
tire in Walla Walla, Wash
Officials of Devils Lake, N. D., are
investigating the heavy sale of mince
pies, alleging that the bakers are vio-
ating the prohibition law in selling
pies loaded with Old Bourbon"
]. Ross Clark, second vice president
of the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt
Lake railroad, has announced that the
branch line being constructed from
Moapa, New, to st. Thomas, New,
would be extended to st. George,
Utah.
An Imperial army of 10000 men,
under General Chang Fun, was deci-
sively defeated by a Canton republi-
can army under General Wong Ching
near Kuchan. according to a cable
gram received in San Francisco. Four
hundred Manchus are reported to have
been killed.
One of the biggest swindles ever
perpetrated in the country has Just
come to light in Omaha through the
discovery by local jewelers. of the
manufacture and sale Of bogus elk
teeth. Thousands of the teeth sold
throughout the country are made of
walrus tusks.
Fifty dynamite caps and enough dy-
Mantle to wreck a skyscraper was
found in an abandoned barn in Denver
by residents of the neighborhood who
went into the barn to investigate a
report that it was inhabited by three
mysterious men. The dynamite was
turned over to the police who are in
yestigating.
Two months of uncertainty and sus-
pense ended for Clarence S. Darrow,
the noted union labor attorney, when
the county grand jury, which for four
weeks has been investigating allega-
tions of corruption in connection with
the trial jury in the Mcnamara dyna-
mite case in Los Angeles, returned
two indictments charging him with
bribery.
The Glenwood post., 1912-02-03
Reclaim Desert by Pumping.

Brandon.-More than 10000 acres Of
arid land between Denver and Bran
don, now good only for cactus and
sagebi ush, are to be reclaimed by the
pump irrigation. A beginning is to
be made with 1,120 acres one-half
mile east of the towns OF Brandon
and Chivington and sixty miles east
of Denver. owned by F. A. Often, a
wealthy Nebraskan. Often has let a
contract for the largest oil irrigation
pump installed in this section OF the
country. The one pump will be used
to irrigate the entire tract. The tract,
with the exception of the ten acres IS
now nothing more than stretch of
desolate cactus land. but within a year
Often predicts that 1t will be as fruit
full and fertile as land in the Grand
vale" and will be fully twenty times
as valuable per acre as it is now. The
pump will cost $22,500.
The Glenwood post., 1912-02-03
WARRINGTON.

Representative Rucker has intro.
duced a bill appropriating $4,000 for
the purpose of supplying seed to farm
ers of Colorado in drouth- stricken SEQ
tions.
Aerial mail carriers are entirely
practicable. in the opinion OF Joseph
Stewart. second assistant postmaster
general, who has charge of the trans.
portation end of the postal business
The letter of Secretary Stimson rec.
ommending a reorganization of the
army sarrisons OF the United States
has reached Congress and senators
and congressman from at least five
states have begun a fight to avert the
action he requests q Congress.
Farrell. president OF the United
States Steel Corporation, surprised the
Stanley steel trust" investigating
committee with the statement that the
Steel corporation and the International
Harvester Company have had no bust,
ness dealings with each other for five
or six years.
After an Intellectual effort on the
part of some members to place steel
rails and pig iron on the free list and
to increase the proposed duties on
lead and zinc, Democrats OF the House
in caucus ratified the iron and steel
tariff schedule drafted by their col
leagues on the ways and means com,
mittee. adding an amendment to in
clude baling wire in the free list
Postmaster General Hitchcock has
received letter from a patron named
P. Pike, in Colorado town, who COM
plains that the postmistress has
threatened to blow his head off and
he is afraid to go to the postoffice
for his mail. He says also that the
postmistress horsewhipped his brother
and chased him out of the postoffice.
He wants the matter attended to at
once.