Evening journal., 1912-02-17
Bright Plaid Silk for Trimming White Taffeta
RuffIed Frocks of FouIard
or Bafisfe Will be Pop
uIar This Season.
THE RETURN OF
THE SURPLICE WAIST

and the scalloped rufie will be often
est seen, the scallops bound with a
narrow bias strip Of some colored ma
terial. In the sheer fabrics the rufies
may be allowed some fulness, but in
tafeta or linen, when they are used,
they must be merely eased about the
skirt in order not to destroy the ac-
cepted slender silhouette.
Linen, however, like serge is more
used for the strictly tailored suit than
for the rudied frock Very striking
one-piece dresses of linen or serge are
vieing with the coat suit for favor
this spring, and as many Of the one as
the other will be seen a little later
on weli-dressed women. The one
piece linen dress, either white. tan,
blue on violet, is a hoon to woman
kind for the prevailing mode of front
or side closing makes it easier to don
than the back closing gowns from
which We have suffered so long
l One-piece dresses as we'll as separ
ate skirts are frequently seen with
tunics or in tunic effect These are
smart and moro appropriate for the
lighter textiles than the narrow two
piece skirt, plain back and front with
seams only over the hips, which look
so well when tailored in broadcloth or
velvet. Since the tunic has evident
" come TO stay. dressmakers are
coquetting with Il. The overlappod
diagonal 'front.' or the front with
straight tucked edge tapping from
right TO lett, is varied I'm diverse fash
ion Sometimes the straight line is
abandoned altogether, and a slight
ullness gained by laying the tunic in
two or three pleats will be caught up
around the figure and the end fastened
TO one side with a rosette or fancy
buckle The rounded line thus gain
cd Is admirable. and so becoming that
for those who do not like the fulness
lthe straight tunic Is outlined with the
curve. as shown in the illustration.
The pleasing effect of the rounded
tunic front Is the charm of this cos
q. tune (figure two). White mohair was
( chosen for it's development. combined
with black panne velvet for skirt front
4 collar. cuffs and girdle. Black fringe
4 edges the tunic as we'll as the straight
|. edge of the collar and the ends of the
\ girdle. The buttons are attractive
q having crystal centers trimmed Will
: black.
!. The white mohair Is an interesting
] addition TO the list of fabrics for tn,
= summer suit and will find favor with
5 economical women because of it's last
j. ing qualities. II also refuses tt
:, wrinkle, and is therefore to be pre-
Il ferred to serge for retaining its fresh
10 ness under trying conditions. Tit
arrangement Of the collar in thi
o model foreshadows the popularity o
l. the surplice waist The Dutch neck
J. which has enjoyed an unusually lonl
'a reign in the realm Of fashion, ha
IS been at last deposed, and the fashion
Is able neck is now cut square or
r shape.
sr One wonders that women have clun
ar SO persistently TO the hard round Q
d. the Dutch neck, since by no stretc
e Of the imagination can It be considere
te becoming. Only to the fresh youn
face does II give charm. and II is eve
81 questionable If the natural charm {
s- the Young face does not prever
% realization Of the defects Of the Dutc
he neck For the older woman, ever
Ike harsh line Of contour in face and nee
rt, is accented by the uucompromisin
Us oAiiAhioo VI Nht ldoAlbiis IL thNN HdN
ry not realized its disadvantages befor
they will surely learn by compariso
ok now. and those who cling. will ye n
ed ye to anything so It be fashionabl
nd will have cause TO congratulate then
ce selves that a change has come. TT
les V neck Is the inevitable concomitai
ch of the surplice waist, coming aboi
on naturally from the construction Of q
In garment put tha surnIicp waist
ed today has not the straight stiff lines
on the olden time We have learned
cs, conjure with chiffon and soft muslin