Evening star., 1912-11-13

of smoked fox and white fox-a skin or
each for the scarf and another pair Tor
the muff. Once in a while the grayish
fox with a pink tone known few years
ago as rose fox, but simply called dyed
fox this year, Is seen. This Is particu-
larly beautiful with white costumes.
Astrakhan is good old friend which;
within the last week. has been revived
gray furs. The last use of astrakhan
seems to have been to provide cozy fuzzy
coats and muffs for small girls and baby
carriage blankets for their infant
brothers. and while the small girls Will
again revel in this curly, soft fur they
will by no means have a monopoly of it.
Whole long coats are made for the
mothers and big sisters of the little girls.
and delightfully."- becoming and in color
they are. The hair of the astrakhan has
a decided curl all over, as much as Per-
sian lamb. and it shades from a warm
gray almost to white. SO that even abso-
lutely untrimmed, as some of the first
models appear. 1t makes an attractive
garment. 1t lends itself well, also. to
contrast with white black furs. or to
ornamentation with smoked pearl buttons
or gray silk frogs. Muffs and scarfs of
astrakhan will make excellent sets for
young girls. and the fur is particularly
we'll adapted to. trimming purposes.
very small quantity on collar or cuffs OF
dark coat showing up effectively.
More of a novelty even than the astra-
khan is another curly or rather. very
wavy. fur. 1t is nothing more nor less
all the hair left on. The finest qualities
are made from China kid. The hair of
this brand of kid is soft. wavy and a
light gray in tone. shading to white. 1t
curls in great swirls and is rather long,
but lies fiat. For little folks and big
folks alike it makes comfortable and
pretty coats. Childens coats of this gray
goatskin are odd and really attractive,
and the girl or woman who wants fine
gray cot and cannot pay for moleskin
VIII nnd one of the smartly cut new goat
skin coats as durable and modsh gar
mtnt as she could want.
direct result of the vogue for gray
is the revival of squirrel. 1t is not every
woman can afford moleskin and gray
fox. and as gray furs are imperative a
good substitute is necessary-hence the
renewed popularity of the inexpensive
squirrel. Now when squirrel has been in
before this, too often it has appeared
In rather ugly guise. This year the chin
chlla squirrel as it is called, is most
used. and in it's best forms it is really
attractive fur-soft. prettily colored and
free from the harsh. long, brownish hairs
that spoil the appearance of some skins
This chinchilla squirrel makes the dainti-
est or FUR toques and turbans. sets of
nat. muf and scarf and trimming on
coats, gowns and suits Whole coats for
motoring and everyday wear are, of
course, again IN use.
Another most unusual fur which has
TINS fashion OF gray apparel to thank for
lts rising popularity Is silver rat-just
plain gray rat, of good quality and sill
very sheen; not even the muskrat, which
FOUND favor earlier in spite of it's name.
nat skin of any kind might be thought to
be about the cheapest fur procurab ble
but the 9TH avenue dealer who was com
suited about 1t the other day said that
1t would prove costly one, and that it
would be used as a trimming on the
very finest of mole and other coats.
The popularity of gray has not les
sened the demand for ermine among
those whose purses will permit of in
diligence in this regal and costly fur
Tailless or pure white ermine is first
sets introduced this winter are made of
tailleSS ermine.
For the young girl white fox promises
to retain its popularity.
Tiger skin is the most startling novelty
which Paris has as yet produced Great
glaring striped coats of this most brill
liantly marked fur of the jungle beast
now wrap about the demure figure of the
little Parisenne. Washington is fol-
lowing in French footsteps in this line.
but SO far 1GO leopard coats are seem
to one of tiger When the leopard first
appeared it was thought to be daring
enough for anything, and the most ad-
vanced of the fashionables would wear
it for nothing but motoring. Already
however. 1t has leaped into favor, and
now evening wraps, afternoon coats
muffs and scarfs and little toques are
made up In leopard skin as we'll as the
roomy motor coats.
AS though this bright, mottled pelt
were not conspicuous enough of itself, 1t
is combined with the one other mottled
skin which compares with it in brilliancy
the cfvet cat A cat of tawny leopard
VIII have immense revers and cuffs of
civet, or a coat of the black and white
civet will have leopard at collar and on
sleeves. They make at once a contrast
and a harmony, and are one of the
smartest of combinations. For really
dressy wear, however, the leopard is
toned down somewhat by revers and
trimming of soft sealskin.