The Washington herald., 1912-04-14
May Manton.

opens on the let side, with an under
face on the front and a straight extension
on the back, and put on small fat hooks
and eyes very close together. Now put
on your girdle and have some one drape
the foundation skirt from the top Of L,
according to the notches, or you can do
this yourself; Turn up your hem on your
skirt and finish that. You zee, It Il easier
to work when you have q small mass of
material to handle and you muss up the
paniers less. That u why YOU should
sew on your hooks and eyes and finish
your hem before you touch the other part.
Now join the seams Of the paniers,
staying them as you did the foundatiaa
skirt seams. II you are making the open
paniers cut out the portion as indicated
on the pattern, or an even better way 10
do would be to leave the front In until
you have arranged your trimming band
or band Of lace upon the paniers and
sewed the back edge of it to the paniers.
Then cut out the open part and turn the
raw edges back and finish by making q
small hem or binding.
Now sew on the hooks and eyeS On the
placket Of the panieS, which YOU have
finished as for the underskirt and gather
the top Of the paniers. Put on your rirdIe
with the foundation skirt attached and
drape the paniers from the top Of the
girdle. Now gather the lower edre Of
the paniers and attach to the skirt Oh the
line you basted. You can do this by
putting the two skirts over an ironina
board or by having some one pin it as
the garment IL on YOU
II Is a good idea when you gather the
lower edge Of the paniers to turn the goods
back about quarter Of an inch, Il YOU are
going to use lace band. 90 that there viii
Be no ravelingA
Now put on your trimming band. ard
II II is a straight band Of lace remember
that you sew the lower edge first and
gather the top edge very slightly as YOU
round the curves, 50 there viii be no
drawing, and the lower edge Of the bias
band can be slightly stretched 90 that L
will lie fat. Trim the lower edge Of the
trimming band with fril Of face or a
ruttie OF the panier material. II you are
using soft silk a bias rufle with one edRe
frayed could be used, or with some ma
terials the accordion plated rufiing of
net that comes by the yard could be
utilized nicely.
In making the closed paniers proceed az
directed and cover your wide banding
with whatever trimming you like and ar
range on your skirt, with its upper edge
covering the lower edge of the panier.
II you want natural waist line, cut
both the foundation and panier skirts of
on line OF penorationS near the upper
edge. You will not need the girdIe and
can arrange on belt.
Finish your skirt completely before
you oeglns on whatever waist you are
- II -
finished Join the two by putting the girdle
stitch the waist 70 the skirt or cover the
joining with cord of narrow plated belt.
he number Of ways IN which this one skirt
an DC treated. In the center figure the
'undation is combined with a plain blouse
} make the very simplest of gowns and
gu would hardly suspect that the panier
ad anything to do with it. This plain
drt is so easily made that any woman N
ould be glad to use it for a number Of
arts. The blouse is a fayorite one with
le slightly open neck and pretty collar
ID elbow sleeves. In this case, the ma
nal IS plain blue linen and the trim
ing IS linen in black and white stripes
lack and white on color is fashionable
ID It Is very pretty and you must notice
50 how buttons are used for trimming. r
Ittons are very smart this season; for W
ash dresses, such as this one, nothing il. NJ
tier liked than pearl or china buttons I
at are sewed through and through and
ten we do the sewing with thread to 4
atch the dress. These are sewed with
ne thread and the effect is very pretty
e. You could use this same oohibina-
N tor chambray or any other simple
lteral, or this same dress could be
hoe IRON plaid gingham, trimmed with
nds OF the same cut on the bias. Every
man likes to have generous number
simple frocks of this kind and Just this
model can be treated so differently .
1t you could make two or three diff
ent dresses after it without any mo-
tony. No skirt is as much used as the
o-Piece one. It can be trimmed with
nds as this one is, or it can be left plain
It can be trimmed with pIaitines or
n rutfies or finished in almost anv
Ter way you may like. Taffeta Is yefy
ttywith trimming Of fringed out ruchines
the same. A very attractive aftey-
IN gown could be made byscombinine
) plain skirt with the waist that e
Hn here combined with the open panief.
m the skirt with ruchings JUST men
aeo put straight round and trim the
use with narrow ruchings in place Of
landings Illustrated. Then arrange
frills under the blouse over the v.
PED portion at The front and make
yoke and undef-sleeves Of dotted net.
Tn twc-piece skirt and different
Uses almost numberless costumes can