, 1912-01-03
TRIPOLI LAND OF SAND.

by the chief European POwels; but what
reward it may offer for the trouble and eX-
pense of occupation and development Is, to
say the least, probIematical. have passed
along the Tripolitan coast AMI stopped at
the principal ports, curious to see what IN
ducements the country might offer to com
merce or industrial enterprise. And the
result 1t my observations IS to OCCASION at
the present moment a feeling Of surprise
that any two countries should think it worth
gong to war about.
Tripoli is pure aud simple desert, extend
ing on the North even to the margin of the
sea. Gases are sprinked here and there on
the arid, barren surface, and these are
the sites Of occasional towns and villages.
In the interior the population is mostly no.
made, the chief concern in life being to
keep within accessible distance of springs.
Lies On Brink OF Desert.
The town of Iripoli like the other coast
towns, lies on the very brink Of the desert,
which seems to grulge it its existence, and
would fain elbow it off it's sandy bosom into
the sea. TripoIi WAS formerly Il place Of
much greater importance than now; it was
q headquarters and starting point Of cara
vans, which traded right across The Sahara,
interclanging the merchandise of Europe
for the products Of Nigeria AMI even the far
off Congo. But these regions now have
other and more convenient %OHtIe.s, ma The
greater part of TrIpol's trade has conse-
guently been cut off Her chief source OF
wealth has vanished and her pristine glory
has waned, Caravans still start from there
on their trans-SahNran journey, but they
have now become rare events, aud the pro-
fits they yield are hardly commensurate with
the toll and risk involved.
Departure OF A Caravan.
It was my good fortune, however, to wit
NESS the departure of one Of these caravans,
All morning and afternoon there was unusual
hustle and commotion in the market place.
First, the cAmels, to the number of nearly
200, were assembled; then vast piles OF mer-
chundise were accumulated, together with
provisions for the journey; these were appor-
toned in proper quantities to the waiting
beasts, who, kneeling, received their burdens
with an air of pliIo,ophic resignation.
A motley crowd of Arabs and negroes
pushed forward the preparations, receiving
an occasional word Of instruction from the
dignifed sheik who was owner of the camels
and leader of The enterprise, and who watch
ed the operations with scrutinizing atten-
ton. Last of all the ladies' Of the harem
were brought forth, and, closely velled, were
placed upon their camels. At length all was
ready, and the struggling procession SET OUT
From the sand to the market place it passed
along a sandy street into a more sQndy lane,
bordered with preky pear, and in a few
minutes the limits of cultivation were reach
ed. I had hastily hired "a donkey and ac-
eompanied the caravan till it debouched upon
the desert. There I stopped awhile to watch
it as it gradually grew less distinct, and dis
appeared i'll the golden glow Of The setting
gun.
Sand a Blessing And Il Curse.
Sand is the prevailing note at Tripoliy aud
is alike it's blessing and its culso. An alb
sence of evil smells in the marrow streets and
covered-in souks Gas the bazaars are more
correctly called) is attributable chiefly to the
absorbing quality of the sand and the dry
ness of the air. In q place where there Is 10
system of sanitation and where sometimes no
rain falls for years, it is a merclful dispen-
sation that sand should possess properties
tending to purge disease, and thus prevent
this town of dirt from becoming q hotbed
of pestilence.
tn certain other respects Tripoli is of fas-
cinating interest. Its European population
is so small as to be almost insignificant, and
there are very few tourists to such an mac
cessible spot. 1t cannot be reached at all by