New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-02
Many Late Summer Models
Show Directoire Lines

from which point the sides slope away.
The waistcoat piped with black and
closed with small pearl buttons. appears
both above and below the point where
the jacket closes. The skirts are quite
elaborate for so severe a top, although
they are untrimmed They consist OF
straight underskirt just clearing the
ground. and an overskirt falling in draped
folds behind to the same length and
crossing severely in front showing the
underskirt up TO the knees.
The woollen embroidery. done on a net
referred to above is one of the pretties;
trimmings We see this season. TIL.
groundwork is thin. with a large mesh
and what might be called a darning stitch
is often used. Sometimes a cross stitch
is combined with this. A favorite wa.
OF using this kind OF trimming is TO make
coat tails, cuffs and revers to the Jacket
with perhaps a line on the skirt Thu
is at It's best on the thin white wool
so popular now. the jacket short. Close
afiair. with q scarf sash OF silk matching
the deepest color In the embroidery.
season are the variety and size of the
sashes worn now. The scarf sash. WOUND
twice about the waist and tying on one
side. IS particularly nice with Jackets
one new idea on lingerie gowns Is
sash of colored net, tied either with
loop or butterfly bow, and ribbon sashes
are sometimes arranged with bow meas
uring twelve or fifteen inches across
Anything like a made bow or any stiff.
formal effect In a sash or ribbon belt is
quite discarded; everything Is loose and
apparently unstudied.
A fascinating idea il the trimming %
the very hem Of the skirt. II makes the
split skirts as coquettish. as feminine
and modest as possible. Short straight,
tailored linen skirts often have the bot
tom OF the skirt festooned and emoroid-
cred. while on the longer, more dressy
gowns occurs the seton rufie
The fringe that was such a feature In
the spring models is quite replaced now
by other methods OF trimming. Many OK
the tunics end with little knife plating
of mousseline de sole, and we zee some
examples Of a double plating, one deep
and drooping, with a little outstanding
one heading II. Most attractive are
tunics OF Powered muslins edged in tnis
fashion about the bottom with plain mus
lin and with O muslin plating about the
shoulders.
Some nice uses OF English embroidery
are In evidence, although this material is,
by no means as much used in expensive
gowns as Il has been for some years,
Solid embroidery done In hand worb.
net lace and darning have replaced II
Sewed-on patterns done in fine white cord
or braid are also liked. II is rare to seei
g white gown that does not contain sew
eral materials or several forms of trim
ming. The really new idea in white Is the
use OF rough-surfaced cottons, thin woods
and soft white silks. The dressmakers
have tried for several seasons TO do away
with the popularity OF lingerie gowns and
they seem at last to have succeeded, or
at least 10 have relegated them TO second
place.
The astonishing thing about the new
models is not the amount OF fulness they
contain, but the fat, straight lines that
this fulness seems to take on. The mod
ish figure seems absolutely bereft OF
curves. And the figure that is not on
these lines? Alas. IL Is not even consid-
cred; as the French would put II, ut
exists not" NJ. A. F.