Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1912-08-24
FANCY FAOS and fAVORI1E fashions

NEW YORK, August 24.-The wave
of elegance and elaboration, which
began to sweep through the realm OF
women's fashion last year, has finally
reached the last stronghold of sim
plicity, the tailored costume. The
plain, mannish coat and skirt suit
guiltless of punishment in the way OF
braid, fancy buttons, silk lacings,
ppings or frogs is no longer fash
ionable except for the most business
like occasions. When 1t comes to
the formal tailored costume for az
ternoon calls, matinee or restaurant
tea occasions, there is no end to the
elaboration the tailor can pile on-al'
ways holding In mind, however, the
simplicity and straightness of line
which control smart tailored fash
ions.
The return of broadcloth Is an in
teresting note-and a stray which
shows which way the wind Is blowing
One cannot but be relieved that the
clumsy materials, taken up last win
ter with the vogue for reversible ef-
fects, will not be worn, and that we
are to get back to the charming, a
lily managed broadcloths which are al
ways becoming and which come In
such enchanting shades. Monotone
effects in costume are promised tor
the winter and two-tone effects also,
with the two shades carefully select
ed with a view to perfect harmony.
In contrast to these elegant mono
tones and two.toned effects, which
are always distinguished and refined
when carried out in good materials,
are the contrasts over which Paris
is dar just now.
1t is accordingly modish to have
a coat and skirt that do not match,
and the more striking the contrast,
the smarter the suit. Velvet coats are
shown with %broadcloth skirts and
vice versa; satin is used in contrast
with silk and with velvet; and n
often sees faille and taffeta Silks
combined. The material of ones suit
really matters very little-provided
the cut and the coloring are modish.
"A new model just imported from
Paris, has a coat of black and white
uncut velvet over a skirt OF black
b%roadcloth; the velveteen coat being
piped at all the seams with white
%broadcloth. The buttonhole moths
are made Of white broadcloth, and
these motifs and the lines of piping
at the seams of the coat are finished
at the end with acorns embroidered
with black and white silk. The coat
has a cutaway line in front, and the
side seams are Tapped under buttons
and buttonholes, Ger the back, the
large armhole being accentuated by
piping. A bolt Of white and gray
leather runs. across the back from
the laps under the arms, fitting the
coat in the least DIT as is now the
fashion.
Semj-ftting effects are coming In
as fast as the tide, and it Will not
be long before the very straight, cas-
sock-like back has disappeared en-
tirely. Belts are on everything. 1t Is
the unusual coat this year that is
beltless, and though the belt may
pass only half way around the coat,
or even be but a strap held down by
buttons at front and back, It always
gives a suggestion OF the fitted effect.
The tiny machine pleating, or &C.
Gordon pleating, as it is sometimes
called in this country, Is again at the
height Of fashions favor. Machine
pleated skirts are being shown In
Paris with hip-length coats OF the
same or contrasting material.
Fashion is still initiating Direc-
toire modes, but now the modes are
masculine rather than feminine. The
cutaway coat opening over q frilled
waitscoat, the eccentric Robespierre
collar, the many buttons, the coat
tails, the exaggerated coat revers-
J hey are ell here, and In most cses
the skirts beneath the dandiaed coat