Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-01

you barbarian If you dare to say that
Bordeaux is better wine than Bur
gundy And other cultured men Will do
the same if you pretend that Burgundy Is
better than Bordeaux.
To tell them apart. by taste, is said to
be the beginning of gastronomy, but it
isn't. There are cultured men who go
by the labels. Also the shape of the bot
ties is different. This is a valuable tip.
Victorious Burgundy eXclaims Sir
Harry Wildair, in Farquhars comedy of
200 years ago, jinging his golden guineas-
The English have always loved Burgundy
because of its higher alcoholzation. One
such. in the Hotel de Ia Cloche, ruddy.
prosperous, white mustached, called to
the waiter:
''Gor-son.' he whispered. heavily. poor
kwaw don't You bring my Chablis- Mou-
tonne 1884 in little basket. pan-pan?'
Fashionable Paris restaurants, in the
Britisher's London Club, serve any wine
above So in a little cruise shaped basket
the bottlesgently inclined like a baby in
its cradle, not to shake the sediment of
old crus settled at the bottom. \ sure
sign of elegant darn expense.
At the Cloche, famous cellar, they
serve the basket with wines as cheap
as 81 80, when they need it. Drfhcult eN-
PLANTATION for a waiter, not to wound the
vain pretended connoisseur who does not
know that Chablis is the very type of
white Burgundy, limpid as water, and
never has sediment,
Pardon. monsieur" the waiter whlS-
pered proudly. very special Chablis Mou-
tonne marvellous 1884, resembles Meur-
sault Hospices, while preserving all those
Chablis qualities which monsieur values
and it has no SEDIMENT
swelled up. He raised his glass, clear
topaz -impid, slim-tasting, thin as water,
with its delicate bouquet. reserved, which
dawns upon the senses slowly, yet SO
strong in subtle, natural alcohol that
Chablis is. without doubt, the white Bur-
gundy best known to the English. Yet in
true rank it comes after Montrachet and
Meursault. He had the dearest on the
list at So: and he might have ordered q
bottle of Observation-Disclosures. 1881, for 81,
or a White Hermitage. 1870, at 81; or a
Montracht of a good year for 81. And
this. mind you, from a wine card where
the dearest champagne. say. Due de Mon
tebello brut. 1893. costs 81: G. Ii. Mumm.
Gordon rouge. 1900, the same. and We
Pommery American Flag without year,
comes to $3.50.
THE royal family of wines is Bur-
gundy." said the proprietor of the Cloche
to me, and all above mere counts are
red"' (Which is rather hard on Chablis,
Meursault and MontrachetD The king
is Chambertin." ($4 to So
X
1t is I, not he. who add the prices. re-
tail, served in Dijon restaurant, but a
very special one, with great cellar,
famous in Europe. They are great years,
from 1881 to 1899.
Romance Cont 50 $50 is the queen.
and Clos-de-Vougeot go the regent, he
continued. The princes of the blood are
Romande. Romande-St. Nivant. Clos-de-
Tart, Musigny. Nuts Echezeaux and
NTora nd To nha-
bourg (SD is the kings cousin. and Cor
ton (S3. SD the standard bearer.
/ will not add the dukes and duchesses,
from Beaune Hospital to Mercurey: but,
an innocent abroad. During four after
moons l wandered about historic DIXON
with the bar as if string were tied
round the forehead, the worst you get.
regularly, from these grand wines, and
almost worth it.
We wandered into the ancient kitchen
of the dukes.
why is Dijon gingerbread?' I asked
a lovely creature with undulated hair,
who sold me nonnettes.
The ducal Kitchens answered the
smart girl, whom 1 regard as historical
and philosophical. if undulated. In other
words, 1 believe her to be correct
Dillon mustard is explained by Bur-
gundy verjus,' L had suggested, to draw
her out.
And Dion gingerbread may be ex-
planned by the fountain of YOUTH, she
had said. 1T is q wonderful spring.
gushing from a rock. pure water of as
tonishing virtues. Refreshing, yes. The
gingerbread bakers own the spring.
But you I encouraged her.
Il say the ducal Kitchens said the
(undulated) glory of Dion. "Gilded