davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23
SLAVERY OF CLOTHES
Is the DiSmaInesS of Mans Garb
the WAY of Escape?

The question of woman suffrage seems to
be entering every department Of HE, even
that of fashions. From every part Of the
country are heard criticisms OF the present
extravagance Of woman's dress and there
are even found some who believe the
women who are demanding political equal
ity with men should standardize their
dress, something in the way that men
have done. \ generation or so ago the
reproach against the educated woman and
advanced thinker was that she was dowdy
and careless In matters sartorial; to-day
the pendulum seems TO be swinging the
other way, and she is reproached with
being too fashionable.
Many woman, weary with the attempt to
keep up a certain social position on mod
est dress allowance, would certainly welcome
a custom that would make her clothes as
economical and as easy to procure as are
her husbands. Formal evening dress is'
probably the item that bears the heaviest
on the woman with a modest income. A
mans evening outfit will do service for an
informal dinner, simple evening party
and an elaborate official function, while his
wife must have distinct type of clothes
lOI tdCIl OIlt VI lHssc OINdoIoho. aiFo AOA
nal evening costume Is the stumbling
block. To be at all in accord with other
gowns worn such a costume will easily
consume two or three hundred dollars, TO
say nothing of accessories. gown OF
this nature may be worn only two or three
| times a year, and the changing fashions
mean constant remodelling or the courage
| to wear the same outfit for several years
| at similar functions.
The man has no troubles Of this sort
The young professional man who wears MS
| clothes properly and knows how to order
them is as correctly attired as 1t Is pos
sible for the most fortunate millionaire TO
! be. For business clothes he may not have
| the variety OF accessories that man who
cares much for clothes desires, but, prac-
tically, a man VINO can spend 500 year
on his clothes need never feel that he Is
not well dressed. The situation is quite
| different for a woman. II would really
seem as II a simplifying Of woman's dress
y ould be distinct advantage 70 the aver
age woman.
on the other hand, woman represents
he decorative side Of life. A ballroom
| would be nothing but a dreary spot or
! black and white without her plumage.
The dinner tables Of the land need her
graceful adjoining. and she specks our big
tl,oroughfares with color and interest
Some OF the aesthetic value Of life would he
lost II women ceased to take an interest IN
their adjoining.
And as TO the business Of standardizins-
low could it be accomplished? Women
seem to differ more in type than do men.
Shall the general dress he made for the
stout woman or for the thin? Color too
is important. The blond woman does noe
wish to wear cocrs suitable only for the
brunette How could these questions be
met?
They could he settled for women in much
the same way as they have been settled for
men: but could any one, man or woman
endure the dismalness OF the result?
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

...,,. ,croes the back, above little seal
,..'.1 hasoucs trimmed to match the edges
-, Tho skirt, stretched a wide wrlnKhns
belt. IT ended at each side OF Ih' ""'''
front under fiat Jet buttons
The wise woman. with Small dress a.
,ovonce. endeayors to combine the smart
Nth the useful. and for the necessary va
r,etv she will turn TO belts, saSleS' he0"-
war wells and hats for 1t Is IN these
,h,nes and especially in hats, that with
orIv a few gowns. her cleverness tells
rha, the problem Is not an easy one now
aver is shown when this wise one soeS o
r,ously about the business or s"Iec''"s
t,u, gowns and the telling mats ~
Ia,ost hats are decidedly OF the P'''-
,,.o,oue order. with a low fiat crown anu
.,ooniro trimming. The little trotuhe
~, ro,,aire practically unchanged in FORM
but its trimming Is lower ana II Is po'eN
on one side, instead Of Directly III l'o''
stfened ribbon bows and loops are pre-
forred 10 wings feathers and alsFet'eS o''
morning hats The airy enect OF inc P'C'N
odgad ribbon adds greatly TO It's DECORATIVE
,,o,,,y Smart Young women love the dig
..,,ounier" and "toreador" hats; these nave
ia
no trimming except knot holding the
hr,ro or a twist Of ribbon about the crown
A long garment OF black satin bought at
a big department store. though Of extreme
grace OF design, showed its democratic
origin in its lining of beautiful VIVID oiue'
which turned over into smartly shaped
revers and deep cuffs on the wide sleeves;
a coat which was really beautiful IN itself
was obviously turned out by the dozen TO
give II a touch OF Individuality rescuing it
from banality. its owner, searching the bar
gain counter. discovered strip of gray net
enriched with heavy raised embroidery.
This she used TO cover the curved blue col
lar and cuffs, applying it so cleverly to the
satin that 1t appeared TO be embroidered on
itself. The entire blue lining was covered
with gray mousseline de sole. Two or three
rosettes Of black satin ribbon. pricked by a
large nat Jet butt4p. placed knowingly In
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

handkerch!efs. perhaps a BIT 60 soft. clean
old linen the absorbent cotton and skin
freshener and writing materials 4 small
bottle Of preventive or cure for mosquito
bites Is also a wise precaution.
Thus prepared, nourished. attired and
equipped one may face even a siN-day
Journey without fear II rs best 10 read
as little ss possible but 10 feast ones eyes
upon the Hying landscape Many a beauti-
mi impression will ho received. MANY a
vision - forest and lake. mountain peak
or cool. deep valley. many a wide sweep
Of prairie. Of glimpse 81 lights fairylikc on
stretches OF water as one noars town
may p, gravod on the page 81 ones mem
ory Why lose these Tor m" page ~ a
novel YOU can read a. any time
Here are the recipes for cleansing lotions
romiscd above. Equal proportions Of
glycorin" and rosewateT. 81 course. "" all
know. witch hazel. seven parts. and pure
alcohol. three parts. Is another good lotion.
ANY good druggist will put you up some
thing 10 keep on mosquitoes and some
thing else 20 pat On yourself II they sting
YOU I'm spite ~ AN precautions Thos"
remedies are chiefly needed during and
otter "A wait ~ some country station.
So many people dread q journey. and APP
groach u in the spirit Of fear Rather an
cipatc plcasrrahly this plunging into the
more or less unknown. hoping 10 see some
thing YOU ucvol saw before. Let go Of the
grip OF years ~ you are in that grip and
make yourself a child again. Remember
vhat.a Journey used +" moan-what SUI
rrcmc crstasy Of expectation YOU enjoyed
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23
A SMART ACCESSORY.

Most attractive is the little circular fare
OF heavy black Brussels net which is to be
seen finishing the round Dutch collars on
some of the half-mourning frocks Of black
and white marquisette. Its outer edge is
whipped with black silk TO make 1t firm.
and at the joining with the collar there is
not the slightest pucker, as the flare is cut
to fit exactly. The effect OF the whole IS
one OF smart severity. The same sort Of
arrangement. in white silk net instead OF
black. or in the humber cotton net. is cf-
fective, with the edges whipped with black
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23
GIFTS FOR BOY AND GIRL
Many Things in the Shops for
Graduation Remembrance.

There are so many little things GEAR 70
tho heart Of the young girl that 1t should
royor he hard 10 find suitable graduation
ITS for her. For example there are
white satin slippers. with carved ivory
hpckI.s and OF course. white silk stock
ings 10 match. An exquisite lace and
spangIed fan. a little Empire affair. with
carved sticks. or an old-umey ian chain
set at intervals with tiny pearls "ou'u
surely delight any girl. The shops sno"
a lot OF lovely enamel belt ana shoe
buckles. and one can hardly nave 100
many OF these accessories A set OF watch
slides. one on a white ribbon, the otner
on black. could hardly fail 20 be welcome.
Then there are silver mesh purses, and
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

the solid silver purse and card case COM
bnatons so much in vogue just now odd
rings are possessions most girls love, and
what girl ever had too many pins? The
pins one gives may be the sets, one long
and two short, of pearls or sapphires. or
those made up of pearls In the centre OF
the bar and cut stones at the ends. There
are always novelties, too. in the way OF
toilet silver, and II would be strange
maiden, indeed who would not be glad 10
have one more silver picture frame. n
pair OF opera glasses or first supply OF
calling cards in a tasteful leather case
would be almost certain TO give pleasure.
Finding things for the boy is not quite
such an easy matter. though he may en-
Joy being remembered just as we'll as his
sister. Silver knives with good blades
substantial key rings, pencils and foun-
tain pens can't but please. Certain things
in the jewelry line appeal TO the average
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

boy. A case containing cuff buttons ana
tie Din to match would be suitable, while
good looking watch fobs never come amiss.
An inspection Of the displays in the leataer
shops will soon convince one that there
are dozens OF things there a boy would
like. Why not give him fiat leather case
containing a soft felt hat, which can
crush, and pair of folding slippers? An
other case contains what is called the
vacation outfit" This comprises nat
clothes brush, two coat and trousers hang
ers and a folding shoe horn. Leather STICK
pin boxes may also be chosen for gradual
ing membranes. II one cares TO invest
more money. there are automobile nam
pers. cameras. hunting and fishing outhts,
field glasses and sets of books. For the
student characteristic book plate would
be an appropriate gift.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

At time when all women are wearing
large brims. that apparently rest on the
shoulders. small. stout woman can dare
a modification of this style that she could
not attempt at a time when small mats
are generally adopted. The woman VINO
wears her nair in an odd or out-ot-date
fashion has her trials when choosing mead
gear
The present modes are particularly try
ing for they are so very odd. Still smil-
Ing serene expression becomes any style
OF hesddress. II is better than fresh
skin. and well cut features. Pity is II
not more general
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23
WHY SHE Is SILENT.

It is said that women nowadays are less
prone than men TO weary those they meet
with long discourses upon their favorite
hobbies. and that. furthermore, the beauty
doctor is responsible for this feminine pc
culiarity. The woman absorbed in beauty
culture has little time for any other hobby.
and tho secrets Of the toilet are not such
az can b discussed with all and sundyy,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23
NO DUPLICATES HERE.

II in this month OF weddings all the
brides-to-be copied the little brides OF Hol-
land they would not have so many duph-
cate gifts. The practical folk of the Neither
lands consult the bride as TO what she
needs. and she has list from which each
article is checked of as It is taken by
prospective donor This list is kept az
an heirloom, 80 that every generation
knows what has been given to its grand
mothers. Incidentally the list has almost
Las value OF an inventory. -
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

IF you are visiting London for the hfst
time and have but a limited amount Of
money for sightseeing don't fail to watch
for the brightly colored excursion posters
DISPLAYED in the street railway stations -
advised the school teacher who has
CROSSED" often enough TO know the best
way TO do II,
These posters" she continued, announce
all sorts of interesting trips for days or
week ends, and If you keep your eyes open
YOU will be enabled to save anywhere from
two TO ten shillings on the regular rates
T had started out one day intending to take
advantage Of free day at one OF the
nicture galleries when, waiting for my train
at an underground station, / saw special
rate 10 Windsor for that very Wednesday.
7 FASTENED back to my modest hotel
dragged my travelling companion from the
letters TO which she had purposed devot-
ing the morning and we just caught the
Ia 81 train. In our haste we hadn't noticed
the word smoking on the door OF our third
class carriage, and II was only when the
air began to grow oppressive that we came
N our senses Other women, however. sp-
peared to have made the same mistake. ana
one had seated herself composedly beside
me. | turned 10 her and asked;
Isn't this a smoking carr
"It is she said, but don't mind.
".But is It quite proper for RdiesF fal-
tsred. ~>~ 0r-~>st
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23
Some Ways of the World

quite proper my dear II you don't
mind the smoke she answered
we did mind more or less. but We
forgot all about II as we went mp the
grand staircase and through the sta.e
apartments at Windsor II was one OF the
free days-on the others the fees go To
charity-and go there was quite a party Of
us Our path was marked of for us by
ropes, and sedatc policeman brought up
the rear. while a genial looking guide went
before and offered a few words OF explana-
ton as We progressed from one magnificent
room to another. Each door was opened
by the guide as we came TO II and those
behind us were closed and locked by the
officer Beauty and splendor passed before
us like a vision. and. dazed and bcwilder ID,
we found ourselves being bowed out at last
by the guide who courteously declined inc
coins that some offered him with the simple
words. The King does not wish IT.
All Of which we might have missed 4
hadn't accidentally caught sight OF that
excursion poster as | waited for my train
I'm the underground station. At any rate, II
would have cost us considerably more"
in every country which have visited
said the globe trotter whose wanderings
have covered most countries on the planet
II have found that the making and selling
Of spurious antiques is a recognized busi-
ness and one in which all excel. AS long as
forty years ago in Mexico ! found this to
be a thriving industry. and OF course in
European countries il dates back further
than that, so that now the acme OF per-
lection has been reached in every line at
tempted The naive way in which even
Mexican toddlers sell their curios shows
the care with which all parts OF the
scheme have been thought out They are
playing apparently with relics Of Aztec
times in broken form, which they will
show the traveller, and then in shy, in
fantile way offer to sell. The only places
where you can be sure Of getting authen-
tic antiques in Mexico now are the old
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

Ingui-icA regarding matters covered p, this
dcrartrrsni should be- addressed 20 the Beauty
staurcd and aIGrcss,4 envelope should o. In
closed
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-23

famous English woman remarked after
a visit to America that the American
child after four years OF age is only a
child in midsummer, at other times she Is
d woman Of the world"
Whether this criticism is just or not 1t IS
certain that the children Of the wealthy
live a much simpler life in summer than
in winter While in town they have dinner
parties that lack only champagne to be en-
tirely grown-up affairs; in the country the
height Of their ambition is a picnic. Some
OF the large places have camping grounds
with a log cabin, a small bungalow or a
stout canvas tent. so that the children can
have all the fun Of camping out within a
safe distance from their own home. and at
lake or shore places the children are put
I'm charge of some local old salt or guide
to be instructed in navigation and aquatIcs
The summer mother does not differ much
from the winter one so far as being eter-
nally on the go is concerned. but her chill
dren certainly see more Of her In the coun-
try than in the city while the tutor and
governess are not SO constantly in attend
Gnce.
Reporter and farmer. [volume] (Webster, Day County, Dakota [S.D.]) 188?-1946, 1912-10-17

Justice between man and man. In
point of fact the testimony before the
Clapp committee serves to disclose a
gigantic conspiracy on the part of the
money power to displace President Taft
Mr.. Finn has long entertained ambi-
tion to sit in the senate. He needed to
dislodge Senator Penrose and take pos
session of the Pennsylvania machine.
Money was small object. The cand-
dacy of Roosevelt offered opportunity,
and Finn saw it.
Mr. Hanna is business man. In 1911
he was indicted by the Washington gov
eminent in connection with rebating
case. The case was settled through the
payment of large sum of money. The
candidacy of Roosevelt presented an
opportunity to Mr.. Hanna, and he will
ingly financed the Roosevelt campaign
in Ohio.
Mr.. Crane was appoi ted minister to
China and established his unfitness tor
the job before sailing. He was recalled.
Mr.. Crane was for anyone to beat Taft.
The steel and harvt ster trusts felt
that they should be exempt from prose-
cution under the Sherman law. The
president, not being away up as poll
tician, could not see that his duty in
their cases was different from his duty
in the Standard oil and tobacco cases.
Opportunity TO show TAFT was presented
in the Roos welt candidacy.
Special writer's Tor the moose cause
do not see that tie developments beforr
the Clapp committee amount to any
thing.
Are the people going to side with the
mlll,onaires seekln 70 work their own
revenges and to establish that no man
can retain popular confidence at the
head of the government unless he shall
take care in his office and in the enforce
ment of law to give them no cause for
serious offense?
The question is before Iowa and before
the country. Sioux City Journal.
Reporter and farmer. [volume] (Webster, Day County, Dakota [S.D.]) 188?-1946, 1912-10-17
THE FIGHT ON TAFT

The Clapp committee is uncovering
some pretty large figures. Mr.. Finn
as well as Mr.. Perkins are important
men on the Roosevelt checkerboard, and
the Pinchots, McCormicks lMunseys, and
the like, each a representative of big
money, are not to be spoken of as
pawns. They are more than friends"
of the colonel. They are eremies of
President Taft.
There is another important man of
whom not so much has been heard, and
his name is Dan r. Hanna, of Cleveland,
son of the late Marcus A. Hanna. Mr..
Finn contributed about $3.50, 600, accord
ing to his testimony, to the Roosevelt
re-convention cause. Mr.. Hanna went
him one better. He parted with $177,-
600 in the struggle to put the colonel
over. He bore the entire burden of
financing the Ohio campaign, involving
an expenditure of $4,000. 1t was
thought it would be great thing, in
the interest of moral uplift, to defeat
the president in his own state. Much
the same view obtained as to Pennsyl-
vania, with its reputation as strong
republican state. Itfell to other reform.
ers. such as Medill Mccormick and Chas.
r. Crane, to look out for Illinois. The
millionaires were in league to prevent
an uprising of the people in behalf of
Reporter and farmer. [volume] (Webster, Day County, Dakota [S.D.]) 188?-1946, 1912-10-17

their knees to do us honor when sue
cess is with US may be the first to
throw the stone of malice when failure
settles its cloud upon our heads. The
one absolutely unselfish friend that
man can have in this selfish world, the
one that never deserts him, the one
that never proves ungrateful or
treacherous, is his dog. Gentlemen of
the jury, mans dog stands by him in
prosperity and poverty, in health and
in sickness. He will sleep on the cold
ground, where the wintry winds blow
and the snow drives fiercly, if only he
may be by his masters side. He will
kis the hand that has no food to, offer,
he will lick the wounds and sores that
come in encounter of the roughness of
the world. He guards the sleep of his
pauper master as if he were a prince.
When all other friends desert he
remains When riches take wings and
reputation falls to pieces he is as con-
tent in his love as the sun in its
journey through the heavens. If for
tune drives the master forth an outcast
in the world friendless and homeless,
the faithful dog asks no higher prive-
lege than that Of accompanying him to
guard against danger, to fight against
his enemies, and when the last scene of
all comes. ard death takes the master
in its embrace and his body is laid
away in the cold ground, no matter if
all other friends pursue their way,
There by is graveside will the noble
dog be found, his head between his
paws. his eyes sad but open in alert
watchfulr eSs, faithful and true even to
death. George G. Vest of
Missouri
Reporter and farmer. [volume] (Webster, Day County, Dakota [S.D.]) 188?-1946, 1912-10-17
"SPEAK OUT! SPEAK QUIT"
Democratic Stomachs Revolt Against
WiIson-MarshaIl Mush.

Speak out! Speak Quit" Is the al.
World, the newspaper chiefly re-
sponsible for the nomination Of Wood
row Wilson in 1912, as II was for the
nomination Of Alton B. Parker in
1904. Day after day, It seems, the
World has been waiting with ears to
the windward for some point some
virile, vital expression from its latest
presidential jack out Of the box on
questions Of the hour, some solid
positive utterance by the candidate
which 1t could grab and lay about
with as campaign shillelah. 1t has
waited in vain Rounded periods of
dreary drivel, pedagogical common
places that might have come out OF
a third reader and which had about
as much relation to issues of the cam
paign as 1T is sin to steal pin"
has to Metropolitan opera, have been
fed to curious crowds and to editors
waiting with whetted pens for red
hot meteors of inspiration.
Disappointment and disgust are not
confined to the World office. I'VE
asked you for bread and you gave us a
stone" Is paraphrased in Democratic
sentiment by 1--WE asked you for
meat and you gave us mush." Nause-
ated with Wilson they turned to Mar
shall only to find him as aperient of
vacuous platitudes as his coadjutor.
It's hopeless appeal AS well try
to seize the elusive tail of a creased
pig at county fair as expect to get
anything definite out of Wilson. He
was definite enough when he said In
his History Of the American Peo-
pie" that 1.-The Chinese are more to be
desired as workmen, II not as citi-
zens," than "the coarse crew crowding
in at eastern ports"-that is, immi-
grants from Europe. He was definite
enough in saying in the same book
that congress lad dealt very harshly'
In passing the law excluding Chinese
from the United States. He was def
mite enough in denouncing immigrants
from Poland, Hungary and Italy.
Evidently Wilson can speak out II
he wants to, and the inference Is that
he is afraid to. On the issue of a
navy powerful enough to defend the
interests and uphold the honor of the
United States he Is silent for fear Of
offending the Democratic majority In
congress opposed to strengthening the
navy. On the tariff he Is, to quote an
old comparison. neither a man, nor
mouse. nor a long tailed rat" but
more like one of those ancient Egyp-
tian monstrosities carved on the num-
my cases. with heads looking contrari-
wise. On one point he Is definite-he
wants to be president, and he doesn't
care much how he gets there He is
willing to slosh through sea OF bosh
to the White House, and now that he
has the nomination he counts upon
the world and the rest OF the whang-
doodles to follow. whether they like
his style or not
Perhaps they will, Notwithstanding
grimaces Of disgust and protesting
cries to speak out.
But the people-they want a man
for president.