Evening journal., 1912-12-21
DRESsY COSTUMES FOR AFTERNOON
White Velour de Laine, Fur
Trimmed, An Effective
Combination
BAGS TO MATCH THE GOWN

advantage the edge Of skunk which
encircles the sleeves. neck and hem
of skirt, and outlines the front clos
ing. extending to the lower edge OF
the dress The low neck IS much
more attractive than the choking high
collar. and the young woman should
cling TO Il as much as possible. At no
place In the gown is any fulness evid-
ent, thus showing TO the best ad-
vantage the contrast between the
dark fur and the rich material Of the
white gown. With the gown Is worn
large black velvet hat with crown
Of white plush. The shoes have up
pers of velour de laine and patent
leather vamps. These have to be made
to order, as they do not come ready
to-wear with white velour de laine
uppers. The convenience OF the one
piece dress is an old and ever-new
story. Our custom, too, of making the
one gown do duty for both card party
and church is considered by the
French artists one Of our foibles, a
thing for which we are to be pitied
rather than laughed at When the
afternoon frock, whether made of
chiffon cloth. a combination of silk
and brccade. or Of q heavier weave,
as ratine. ve.our de laine, or velvet,
is fashioned with a guimpe, it can be
turned to good account as a demi-
evening toilette by the removal of the
guimpe. There is something about
this word guimpe which antagonizes
many women One may appreciate
fh rfa ,r ffnrag ~ a
knows that those bought ready-made
rarely ft, and always give the inn
preston OF q make-shift With a lit
tie care, however, they can be made
TO IT. A good dressmaker can accom-
plish this. She knows that a short
sleeve, as a means of holding the
shoulder in place, is essential, that
the shoulder and neck must be cut
and fitted to the individual, as these
vary essentially i'm different people.
1 She knows, too. that the guimpe
should extend to the waist, and that
it should be held firmly in place by a
tight belt: also that it should be but
toned from neck to waistline, never
left open or merely pinned. For the
making of the guimpc thin laces like
shadow or maline are best: white
chiffon cloth is also a favorite The
heavy laces as Irish crochet. Bohe-
mian Arabian and Cluny, are not de-
si able for this purpose.
Anoth-r accessory of much impor-
tance in the newer frocks is the sash
or idle. Many pleasing fancies eug-
gest themf elves. depending on the
material and style Of the gown. If the
gown is strictly tailored model, the
girdle should adhere to the same
principle. A tailored bow finishing
the crush belt is effective; embroider.
ed ends are also very stylish If tho
gown is of lace and soft satin or silk
the prettiest draped sash imaginable
is now offered. This is a style worn
! by Nine Bernhardt. and said to bC
adopted by her from the Indian wo
men. II is a charming fashion, an,
/ becoming to the majority of women
In its arrangement the drapery Il
brought low about the waist over thl
hips and tied loosely in front or a
the left side. while the ends fall free
The color selected may be the bizarr,
combinations of the Orient or the sub
dued tones of our Occidental country
! The charming gown seen in th'
( second illustration has the guimp'
with the new high collar which eX
: tends beyond the ears The mode
was developed in black satin White
MORE is used for collar and als'