Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-03-17


Of the skirt, and they are made with
sufficient waist measurement to slip over
the high-waisted skirt if necessary Some
very attractive lace waists have a coat
tail outline cut away in front and gradu-
ally sloping off to a point about ten
inches below the waist in the back. Other
lace waists have slightly gathered frills
or short TUNES. Simple designs in waists
have just the short tabs in front and
back, or the position panels. These are
formed by allowing the lace band trim
ming of the waist to slip under the belt
and come out below in short extension
The variety of fichu and bolero waists
is endless, and they are pretty and be-
coming, and will appeal to the average
woman who aspires to dress well, but who
has to consider the expense, as by this
dress up plain waist or dress with one
of these new separate garments and ac-
quire very stylish effect.
Some of the new net boleros are re-
splendent with jewels, spangles and beads.
They are quite elaborate and glittering,
but brighten up a plain dark waist or
gown wonderfully. A good device in
making over an old waist is to use the
little bolero of embroidery. 1t will make
an old waist look very smart Some of
the new oriental embroideries may be
used in this way to good advantage. If
you use wash embroidery for your bolero
or jumper. and in order to economic are
obliged to buy the machine-made en-
look by working over the embroidery by
hand, thus saving stamping and padding.
X
guimpe is very useful and pretty
accessory to own, and should be compos-
ed of thin, unlined cream, or white net
or lace stock and yoke. Colored laces and
nets are never becoming, and are exceed
ingly trying to even a faultless complex
ion. AS white or delicate-colored
guinpe can only be worn few times be-
fore it is soiled, to be a really useful and
dainty accessory it must be fashioned so
that it can be easily washed and not be
dependent upon dry cleaning. To over
come this difficulty. it should be made en-
tirely separate from the dress proper To
make one, first buy well fitting pattern,
or you may use plain foundation pat
tern which you use as a guide when max
ing waists.
First cut pattern of thin crinoline or
cambria, afterward to be discarded, pin
to the yoke. and fit around the neck. The
only way to make f1imsy material cling is
by laying the center front on the bias of
the pattern. Cut the back in the same
way. handling the center back carefully
SO as not to stretch it in the slightest.
Face instantly with straight piece of
net on the upper size, turn uLOeT the raw
edge at the bottom and use double piece
of net for the back facing. The collar
must be cut on the straight of the mate
rial. and shaped slightly lower in front
than in back. Join collar and guimpe with
fagoting in heavy cotton thread. Fin
ish at the top with fine Irish picot or
cluny edging put on without fullness
Use this same fagoting in joining the
shoulder seams.
There are many different kinds of col
lar supports, but the covered silk wires
made for holding up collar are most
comfortable and pretty in a net collar,
giving the effect of a silk embroidery
stitch on the right side. Six supports are
required in every well boned collar. They
should measure the exact height of the
collar. Begin at the front, get the ex-
act center and sew the front supports
about three inches apart at the lower
edge, slanting each one sidewise about
three-Quarters Of an INCH. Place the next