The sun., 1912-08-04
MEMS YACHTING
DRESS IN DETAIL
Rigid Rules Prescribe Exactly
What Shall Be Worn on
Every Occasion.
IMPORTANCE OF THE CAP
Visitors on Large Yachts re.
ceivc the Proper I!eadwear
From Stock Kept on Board.


Perhaps no sport except riding is SO
rigorous In its rules for correct dressing
as IL yachting. and these rules are well
understood by devotees OF the sport
Not to wear u yachting costume on tho
street. except. OF course. when tempor.
arily ashore, ID an unwritten law better
observed now than II was few years ago
50 too is tho rule requiring uniforms
appropriate to various functions ard
conditions.
Il used TO be the fashion for yachtsmen.
especially those who sailed their Graf.
on any other water than the ocean, says
the Sdrtoriai Art journal. to wear what. 4.
ever suited them when ahoat Even nov
the man who sails hts own boat will havs
some hard work TO do and will want
clothes that will not be harmed IL they
are vet. but il he hires q professional
calling master and crew and takes only
nominal command Of the actual navigation
he will need correct garments.
The service dress regulations Of the
New York Yacht Club provide for double
breasted sack coat Of blue or white cloth.
serge or flannel. and blue or white waist.
coat. each with the club button. Black
buttons are used on the blue cloth and
white on the white material. Trousers
are Of the same material as the coat or
OF white drill.
So far as ey 60 these regulations
are followed strictly; but IN other details
the service uniform, what II commonly
termed yachting dress, is influenced BY
the prevailing fashion in mems clothes
and follows 1t closely. In crdering service
dress yachtsmen, If they know what s
correct, will not allow the tailor to make
for them nything freakish or noticeable.
Yachting dress II too much like uniform
to allow Of much variation.
In later years the materials most com.
monty used have been changed. place
Of the heavy blue navy cloth formerly
regarded as the only correct material,
blue serge or flannel is more usual for the
blue uniform, while white flannel is correct.
for the white clothes or white duck may
be worn with the blue coat.
This applies more particularly. of course,
to the yachtsman who sails his boat only
on Q summer afternoon or who takes a
party Of guests for a short cruise. The
man who owns one Of the big ocean going
yachts, which may cruise half way round
the world, has in his wardrobe many suits
OF varying weights 70 suit different CHI
mates, and among them are one or more
Of the heavy, warm navy cloth.
| While blue has since time almost inins-
morial been regarded as a navy color,
it is by no means universal. III fact.
tho present season finds several men-
bers of the New York Yacht Club wearing
coats made from Oxford gray cheyio'.
almost the same as used for the day
drees cutaway.
With a full blue suit the blue cap j,
worn, but when white trousers are worn
the white cap accompanies them. In
other respects there is no rule that tells
, when to wear a blue coat or white one.
/ although some amateur yachtsmen I'M
sRe Insre s1,siv IN tSe morning % when ,hs
air is cool and the owner has business
on deck. the white suit and the blue coat
and white trousers being regarded NOR"
as a dress costume. the full white costume
| being worn in the afternoon or evening.
The cap Is one of the most important
being given to it in the regulations as 10
| the proper clothes 10 be worn. The reg.
lations provide for cap OF blue black
cloth. white serge or white duck. with
band of mohair braid one and one-halt
inches wide. q isor of black patent leather
prescribed to the fraction of an inch.
On the cap the ornament on the from
shows the rank OF the wearer. Thess
dev ices are standardized and are similar
in the uniform Of each club in the country.
gold with a raised blue disk across il
n. e-eighths OF an inch in diameter. with
q right angle red cross one-eighth OF an
inch wide.
All other officers have two. crossed
anchors and similar raised device. their
relative rank shown by the number amp
commodore has three stars. one above
and one on each side The vice-commo-
dore omits the star above. the rear conl'
modore the stars at the ends The cap
tain has no stars. while the club officers
are entitled to wear various devices de-
noting their Office.
It is usual on most large yachts tonarry
a supply OF caps, and the steward will ASK
each guest as he boards the yacht II he
has a cap. II not. he will ask the size and
soon bring him cap to wear while on
The sleeve ornaments are also an un'
failing indication Of the wearer's rank.
A commodore wears on his sleeve tfve
stripes Of heavy tubular Inohair braid.
4 inch wide and 4 inch apart the uppett
stripe ending in q trefou and three gii'
The vice. commodore has four stripes and
two stars. the rear commodore three
stripes and one star captains and officers
two stripes with trefoil. and members
one stripe with trefoil A dag Officer
always wears his uniform on board he
yacht and on all occasions when he -
acting for his club.
The mess jacket. regarded in yachting
circles as full dress for evening. follows
the cut of the ordinary landsman's dinner
Jacket. 1t Ia made of blue unfinished
worsted with the front edges just meet
ing. long roll. peaked lapel satin faced.
The opening OF the lapel is the same AZ
an evening dress coat, cut with squnre
corners in front. The back Is cut IN oNa
piece. Ave inches wide at the bottom.
with side slashes ut the second seam h''
inches long. -,
1t is bound oil around edges and s'4
slashes from below the lapel with one men
wide black mohair braid, with tracing ot
one line black mohair soutache. ~,
sleeve finish is plain. with four small tll.
buttons one inch apart. The ranhiiS
device is embroidered on the collar ~
goldbullion, three quarters -inchn lenC,h
The waistcoat is either blue or NMe'
with four small gilt buttons, and biaLk
tie is worn, A plain dress coat with 'h'