Bisbee daily review., 1912-09-22
Pads and Late Fashions

NEW YORK, September 21:-lt is predicted by those who are in posi- ton to know that draperies will be all important during the coming sea son. The draped effects e the sprir-, which were usheTed in by tIe pan nier styles, all more or less big ITTc and awkward, were in many la-gs too extreme and unbecoming to last for more than a brief season. The drap- cry of the autumn essays to be grace ful. becoming as we'll as chic. It swathes the figure in flowing yet cling ing folds. It leaves a comparatively straight silhouette, but breaks into odd fuIlness within that outline.
 Some Of the new models are little draped if at ali There are one-piece fTocks that at first sight seem dis tinctly familiar. but when one exam ines them one usually finds subtle diferGn nces between them and the straight scant onG-piece tTottins frocks of last season. The outline may have changed but little, but
 pIaits have crept into the skirts, or little ripping folds appear somewhere in the skirt length, or perhaps it is merely a slightly greater breadth in the limp straight falling shirt what works the difference between the new suit and the old one.
 Parnier Models on Vogue
 Piquant panuier models, models showing the short boUfant pannier are still shown by certain makers, but rather as period frocks than in an ef- ! fort to make them dominate present day fashions. Everywhere, however one sees echoes of the pannier, at tenuated echoes, drapeTies that one can hardly call panniers, yet they hint at pannier origin or inspiration. | These draperies fall long and limp. are drawn away but slightly from the | front or are caught Up but a trifle | here or there.
 i Still there is the tendency to a foot ] line, narrower than the line above it, ] though in reality the new skirt may 1 have added foot width, straight fall ] ing. flatly pressed plaits or limp ! folds No flare, except in extreme i period models. but a comfortable width for motion and opportunity for ] the use of more material, and above l this clinging foot fitness. deftly drap- ] ed folds. Sometimes the whole skirt ! is plaited or has a plaited section. ' or is trimmed in scant flounces, or | has a fiounced. plaited or cIinging plain front, with some sort of flow | ing train, or plaits falling from the | shoulder to provide the drapery
 Watteau Fashion Modified 1 Tn evening frocks there are many l charming variations upon this idea
 Of the flowing drapery from shoulder ! or high girdle top, and delightful ef fleets are obtained by using chiffon,
 gauge or fine lace in what may be called modified Vatican fashion.
 soft wide pleats or breadths falling free from the shoulders or from the
 shoulder blades and either merging into train drapery or partly yelling
 a draped or floUnced skirt
 1 Some of the handsomest of the new
 evening gowns. too. have draped
 sides and backs, with petticOat effects In front In such models the bodice
 which in front is likely to show . continuation of the petticOat material,
 and the draped overskirt are often of the superb hrocades or chameleon
 or moire or rich onc-tOne silks, while the petticoat is Of sheer stuff.
 ! Accordion plaits, sun plaits, straight Iplaits Of all depths. box plaits are all used extensively ir the new models ! That certain phases of it will be over J done is a fOregOne conclusion. The accordion plaited skirt and accordion