Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1912-09-25
nv Florence Fairbanks.

NEW YORK, Sept 23.--lt IL pre-
dicted by those who are i, u posit On
10 know that drapories will be all
important during the coming season,
The drapod effects OF the spring,
which were ushercd In by the pannier
STYLES, all more or less bizarre aud
awkward. were In many cases too en-
trcmc and %unbecoming to last for
more than n brief season, The drnp'
cry of the autumn essays to be grace
full, becoming as well al chic, II
swathcs the figure in flowing yet
~clingiug folds. II leaves n compare.
lively straight silhouette. but breaks
into odd fulncss within that outline,
Some of the e models are little
drapod II at all There are one.piecc
frocks that at first sight seem dis
tlnctly familiar, but when one OK.
amincs them one usually finds sub
tie differences between them and the
straight scant one.piecc trotting
trocks OF last season, The outline
may have changed but little, but
plaits have crcpt into the skirts, or
little ripping folds appear some
where In the skirt length, or perhaps
II IL merely a slightly greater breadth
IN tho limp straight falling skirt what
works tho difference between the new
suit and the old one,
Piuuant pannier models, models
showing the short bouffant pannier
are still shown by certain makers,
but rather rs period frocks than IN
an effort to make them dominate
present day fashions. Everywhere.
however, one sees echoes OF the pan
nier, attenuated echoes, draperies
that one can hardly call pannters.
yet they hint at pannier origin or in
spiration. These draperies fall long
and limp. are drawn away but slight
ly from the front or are caught up
but a trit,e here or there,
Still there is the tendency to a
foot line. narrower than the line
above it, though in reality the new
skirt may have added foot width
straight falling, fatty pressed plaits
or linn folds. No flare. cXcep, in eN'
IRENE period models, but a comfort.
able width for motion aud opportun'
ity for the use OF more material, and,
above this clinging foot mlness, def
ty draped folds, Sometimes the
| whole skirt is plated or has a plat
ed sectioa. or is trimmed in scant
fuunces, or has a bounced. plated
or clinging plain front, with some
sort OF flowing train, or plaits falling
from the shoulder to provide the
drapcry,
In evening fr0cks there are many
charming variations upon this idea OF
the flowing drapery from shoulder or
high sirdlc top, and delightful effects
are obtained by using clifton, gau2e
or fine lace in what may be called
modified Vatican fashion. soft wide
pleats or breadths falling free from
the shoulders or from the shoulder
blades aud either merging into train
drapery or partly yelling a draped or
bounced skirt.
Some OF the ~handsomest Of the new
evening gowns, too. have draped
sides and backs, with petticoat eff
fec,s in front. In such models the
bodice, which in front is likely to
show a continuation OF the pettieoat
material, and the draped oversSirt
are often OF the superb brocades or
chameleon or MORE or rich one,toae
silks. while the petticoat is OF sheer
stuff,
Accordion plaitS. sun plaits, straight
plaits OF all depths, box plalts ar ali
used extensively il the new models.
That certain phases Of il Will be
~overdone is q foregone conclusion,
The accordion plated skirt and &C
Gordon plated ttounce are too eAec-
tive and too easily secured not to be
adopted enthusiastically by The crowd