New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-05-12
If Well Made, 1t Meets All
the Demands of Fashion
and Economy.
Paris, May 1.

Paris May I.
The silk tailored costume is the resource
of all conventional women who do not care
to appear In the street with their figures
plainly outlined. as Is the case in the one
piece dress And truly nothing IS more
fetching in appearance, after all, than a
we'll made tailored costume, whether II Is
or silk or any other material. The readers
Of this page have been already warned
against investing heavily In changeable
taffetas. They have lost all the chic they
ever possessed-never much, I'm the opinion
of the writer except when used as Innings
and underdresses. But there are other
silks a-plenty TO choose from when select
ing silk COstume-taffetas and foulard
silks. printed in charming designs. stripe
and pladed, and spotted in all sizes The
plain silks In dark blue and dark gray,
trimmed with a little black satin. are most
satisfactory. filing all the conditions de-
manded by style. practicability and econ
omy; for If the first expense is greater
than that OF the thinner taffetas or fou-
lards. such a costume may be worn. in this
climate at least, through the entire year.
y new costume III quite Il How weave VI
silk. as soft and smooth to the touch as
satin, is made with a coat which just COW
crs the hips: It closes diagonally in front,
and long cravat ends of black satin, which
lass under the big threc-corncred revers
and tie in a big. loose bow, add an i'm
mcnse amount Of chic. The straight hung
SKIRT opens a little at the bottom + the
front breadth, showing a bit Of black satin
pcttlcoats. The back IS laid I'm fat pleats.
held close at the top, but allowed 10 swing
free halfway down. Sleeves and neck are
finished fatty. so that white linen or white
lace collars and cuffs can he added at will
an addition which quite changes the char
pCter OF the costume.
The puffs which ornamented the side
breadths OF several gowns shown at the
spring openings are now transferred 10
the middle OF the back the pun is held
In place half way down by a cluster Of
large shirrs, a band or a bow OF wide
ribbon. Several skirts showing this pro-
tuberance appeared on mannlkirs at the
last races. The coats worn with them
curve extremely short from the bust,
showing nearly all the HIP line.
White. dark blue. beige and mastic tones
rredominate. a blue costume seen last
race day had pretty ornamentation 81
heavy Cluny lace dyed blue and embroid-
cred with gold threads. all the edges were
trimmed with narrow bias bands emhroid-
cred with n little coarse black silk braid.
Most effective. with a small amount OF
labor
"Washerwoman" overskrts arc pretty
enough with the turnover portion. as well
as a deep square collar and cuffs. faced
with the reverse side OF the material.
showing narrow colored stripes This over
skirt in plain. self-colored linen is smart.
with the facing in red Powered linen.
The same expressive stun is used in long
sleeveless coats worn over a dress Of plain,
natural colored linen. The coat quite plain
and loose has wide armholes finished with
bias hand Of the plain linen. and is
hem is edged with an inch-wide band OF
black velvet ribbon. 4 high belt or short
basques and the long close sleeves Of the
dress. claim their share OF the gay'y Cow
cred linen. The sleeves thus complete tho
coat Such a costume Is ideal ior the
country and seaside: worn nj the races in
the Bots Il seems rather out Of place. Al
ready white satin coats. topping black satin
skirts. have become unpleasantiy common.
though they are achieved In several forms
long half long and extremely short. The
Duchess dc Brissac wore last Sunday a
charming costume Of black charmeuse. Itf
skirt seemed composed % one long. wide
breadth. draped about the figure and pulled
up at one side by line OF shrrs; the
underskrt thus revealed. was laid in fine
plcats. The deep square collar Of the
short coat and wide. square cuffs. were
oddly made Of black satin. knife pi"atcd,
the edges finished with an inch-wide silk
ruchlng rayelIed into fringe on each edge