davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-09-01
Directoire STYLES

ARRIVING out predictions OF .
few months ago. fashion design
~ ers are emphasizing with de-
cided success tho directoire model In
suits and gowns. There is jaunti-
ness about the cut. the lines and trim
ming that gives just the charm, tho
chic" as Parisians say, to a costume.
The combination OF materials Is most
easily carried out. because OF the cuffs.
the lapels and collar with the vest
ana patch pockets which characterize
this style. Buttons play an important
part and the broad sirdle and sash
will contribute individuality and char
acter to q gown or suit.
Generally. the coat has 9 turned
back collar OF satin or cloth. It can
Do quite fiat or it can stand in a high
stock effect, tied up with black ribbon
or velvet. the knot or bow at the side.
Straight lines Of buttons are used,
great emphasis being placed on round
forms of brilliant bone or brass balls.
or on ornamental styles Of enamel and
tortoise shell.
Evening star., 1912-09-01
tn. college GIRL the school

-OR the college girl. the school
girl or. IN fact. for any woman
l. who prefers the practical style
e the separate blouse for her work
ing days. Paris has supplied some
charming models that successfully COM
bins the leading features OF the fan
styles with a durability ana easy con-
struction. Cnden.able is the Importance
Of . varied outfit Of separate blouses.
With a well-tailored skirt and q walk
Ing suit. they make possible many
changes, q continuous smart, neat ap-
pearance. and the whole wardrobe with
its variety can be quito inexpensive.
The college girl can plunge to the depths
-er heights--of philosophy II she b ar
rayed IN one of these models fresh from
designers across the water.
Sheer linen is used in the first blouse
at the left The bodice is hand-tucked
and crossed in an attractive surplico
effect. Sleeves arc long. with the FULL
ness at tho bottom gathered into tucked
cuffs ending IN frills. The collar and
bands at the front crossing are of straw
berry pink linen White linen forms the
double frill IN front. Perhaps pink IL
not your color. Well. add your favorite
shade for the color note on white
blouses is a decided feature for fall and
winter.
Above stands the owner OF distinct
I've model that has style and yet . GER
tain dash OF the athletic blouse. It Is
just the kind of bodice that can be worn
on the campus or at the study hall.
Here there Is an open effect at the
neck. the collar rolling back, with one
rever longer than the other. An extended
yoke has sleeves attached by q tailored
seam. Fullness at the elbow Is attached
to cuffs o. lace and a turned-back band
OF linen. A subcollar of heavy lace
makes the blouse ornate and appropriate
for afternoons. Cords and fabric-cov-
ereH buttons fasten in a slanting line.
Evening star., 1912-09-01

and black velvet. low. broad shapsA
with colored scarfs and buckled, are
becoming and practical Ribbon or
fabric loops win always merit favor
from college women.
The opportune time for mating
blouses is now. for stock clearing. with
its remnants, Is one Of the present
blessings The styles are here. What
moro can vomankind askf
Evening star., 1912-09-01

ibie It is worn around the head and re-
sembles q vine made OF dewdrops.
White satin hats are very smart. They
are trimmed with nat bows OF black
velvet or aigrettes.
Shaggy felt hats In beige and natural
tones are immensely stylish worn with
tailored suits.
Fine lace wells are draped around small
white plush or felt hats. The design or
the lace motifs is quite wide apart. SO that
the wearer arranges the veil in man.
Evening star., 1912-09-01
1CSr . peep behind the curtain Of
one Of the most exclusive shops Of

1SSi Z peep behind the curtain or
II one Of the most exclusive shops Of
Paris shows how strong the
directoire coat viii be during the COM
Ing season.
Some OF the models have a narfng coat
and others are close fitting: but there
seems to be no doubt that both coats
and skirts will show decidedly more
fullness this season. albeit the silhou-
cite will obtain.
In the skirts these close. long lines are
adhered to. although a breaking away
from the contracted line II noticeable
In number Of skirts which show q
fuliness at the bottom. obtained by US
ing series of pleats at the side set
in a little above the hem.
Nearly every skirt embod!es the pan
nier drapery in some way. Some are
draped In scant folds. while others. Of
Evening star., 1912-09-01
FADS AND FASHIONS.

Hats OF black tulls are fashionable and
becoming.
Dresses OF printed voile are now the
fashion for afternoon wear.
A very moved idea In footwear Is the
black patent leather slippers with scarlet
heels.
Some Of the new afternoon dresses show
pieatings beneath polonaise effects, and
Evening star., 1912-09-01
[<TT7HAT win the length OF the
w coats be IN the autumn and

winter?"
The question was asked by an
American who wanted to order her fall
suit early. The reply to her was thirty
two inches, for she 10 . trifle below the
average height In tailored suits the
demand Il for Jackets thirty-two or
thirty-four inches long. cutaway In
'front.' ending In . broad curve or blunt
point In the back.
Some OF the coats. however. arc mace
very long in the back, almost reaching
to the hem Of the skirt. and cut away
sharply from the waist line In tho
front: but these are too extreme to
become popular. and in any case VIII
only be worn by the exceptional woman
who has many suits to choose from
Evening star., 1912-09-01

and fur. Ribbed velvet, panne and sable
cloth are the favorite materials
In the newest coiffure the hair is Dress
ed In coronet style. This is very charm
ing and picturesque.
The new tailored suits have a military
appearance with their tail-coated boleros
and cut-up skirts.
Ivory white and corn-colored suits are
worn with brilliant colored silk crocheted
vests. These vests are most effective a1d
appear in bright blue, red, violet or green,
Evening star., 1912-09-01

yellow or gold. They have crystal or
metal buttons and open at the neck to
display a double Jabot Of rLffled lace
The latest development Of the pannier
is the oriental sash which swathes the
hips and fastens In front.
The new frocks have wide girdles Satin.
taffeta, crepe de chine, tulle and velvet
are used. They meet the yoke line in
front and extend half way up the back.
They are pleated and fit smoothly.
A most attractive white hlouse Ia madA
Evening star., 1912-09-01

they emphasize the Japanese note. They
are made of rich brocades. metal laces.
epingie and velv0ts.
Many of the charming dresses are trim
med solely with buttons covered to
match.
Pumps are no longer the fashion when
walking. but high shoes, with broad,
rather low heels.
One Of the latest ideas OF hair orna-
ments is . band OF rhinestone flowers
and leaves set in silver, light and fex-
Evening star., 1912-09-01

ner to display a butterfly or a leaf on one
side Of the face or at the round Of the
chin.
Many of the new tailored suits have
braiding in colors and broad silk gallon
as trimming.
At present fashion demands that almost
every gown shall have its particular pair
of shoes.
The new suits show three-qLarter short
fronted coats with standing half-roll col
lars, open throat and trimmed with braid
Evening star., 1912-09-01
In Arranging the Luncheon.

which can be bought by the roll very
cheaply at any department or confec-
toners store, should be plentifully used
to wrap each article on the bill-of-fare.
The lining from cracker boxes can all be
saved, pressed out and utilized In the
same way. Then a fresh napkin OF linen
or Japanese paper should be furnished
daily. Pack the things In the order In
which they are to be eaten. Wrap the
fruit il juicy and lay at the bottom. then
the little jar of homemade jelly, custard
or preserves. the homemade cookies. or
little cup cakes or a turnover, and on top
the sandwiches. eggs or cheese Dates.
raisins and figs are all nutritious and
catch in moderation are not indigeStible.
The dates may be steamed. the stones
nuts. almonds or another date. then roll
ed in sugar Figs may be steamed and
rolled in sugar. or prunes soaked over
night, cooked slightly or steamed. nut
meat, inserted and the prLne rolled In
sugar then dried lightly in the oven.
Nut meats are nutritious, but unless
salted should be accompanied by little
bag OF salt Peanuts may be eaten
freshly roasted. may be salted made In
sandwiches or little peanut butter waters.
Jar of peanut butter Is a convenient
thing to keep on hand.
A small piece OF maple sugar or q few
homemade bonbons as surprise" WEI
be appreciated and are perfectly HARM
less.
Fresh Fruit for the Lunch Basket.
The value of fruit IL unquestioned, but
care should be taken to see that 1t Is
neither overripe nor underripe. 1t Is also
necessary that the fruit should be care
fully washed or wiped before putting in
the basket. A little silver fruit knife
is an appreciated addition to q little girls
lunch box. though the boys usually think
oil oexys' For
as rule like the folding lunch boxes
best, for they are least in their way.
Sandwiches FOR tho Lunch.
Whatever else goes into tho luncheon
basket, sandwiches hold nrst plaza The
bread should be medium fresh. and sliced
thin. Crusts need not bs trimmed if not
too hard. II meats are used - niling.
sliced thin. taking care 10 cut out Ill
gristle. A bit Of left-over rare oesfsteak
makes a good Alling. while chicken,
tongue, roast beef and lamb are Ill ap-
propriate and tasty.
one-Egg Cake.
Beat to q cream one-half cup butter
and one cup sugar; add one well beaten
spoonfuls baking powder and one cup
sweet milk; davor to taste: mix veil and
bake In patty t1ns In hot oven.
Cakes for School LuncheA
II possible. bake patty pan cakes for
the lunch baaket They are % easy to
pack. 80 tempting to eat especially when
their brown sides support lovely frosted
top. And here arc some good plain cake
receipts. Just the very thing Tor patty
psncakeA
Sugar Cookies g
ME- together one cupful butter. twd
ounces sugar and I'VE eggs well beaten.
Add o pint and Q half hour. well sifted.
with Q teaspoonful baking powder and ..
cup Of milk Mix into q dough just soft
enough to handle conveniently. nour the
moldinG board and roll out the dough into
. thin sheet Cut out with q cookie cut
ter, lay on e creased tin and bake five or
six minutes in hot oven.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORns
Evening star., 1912-09-01

Ono thing 10 certain: they are lovely and
gladden. the heart Of any woman VINO
Is feminine enough to wish to appear
at her lovelest at all hours OF the day.
ELOISE.
Evening star., 1912-09-01

1TH opening Of schools NJ
W. hand. the question OF whole
KNk some luncheons for the
w school children 10 again I'm
order. In New York city in
several localities where the children are
poorly fed at home wholesome luncheons
are served at the schools under the su-
pervision OF the New York school lunch
con committee.
The question how to find menus cheap.
nourishing and satisfying to the differing
nationalties Is q hard one to solve, az
the charge to each child is but cents.
and the aim Of tho committee is to make
the thing self-supportng. With tho TIA
lian children. polenta fills the BILL
To make enough for 125 children-ths
basis figured on-takes eleven pounds OF
cornmeal, two pounds OF cheese and half
a gallon OF oil. Ten and a half loaves
Of bread are eaten with this. Only one
dish is served at luncheon. but the
child has all he or she wants and plenty
Of bread Monestra is another Italian
dish, but not SO nourishing as polenta.
Enough for 125 children requires fifty
pounds of potatoes. half a bushel OF
cabbages, twenty big onions. q head or
celery, q pound OF lard and a pint OF oil.
and it costs $3.50 Bean soup, a dish
sometimes served at the Irish school, can
be gotten up at the rate OF s2.17 for ID
children, but IL would never do for a
Russian school, because there is salt
pork in it. Boiled rice with milk. sugar
and molasses is another success at the
Irish school.
At the New York child's welfare ex
hibit held last year Ii was demonstrated
that the chief cause Of many children's
backwardness in school was malnutrf-
ton caused by the lack Of intelligence In
feeding: that many children used tea ana
coffee at the homes where bad cooking
was the rule.
With the substitution Of even one
wholesome meal. the school luncheon.
such children have shown marked Inn
school work.
For the Lunch Basket.
While the warm lncheon Is out of the
qestion in many schools. the contents o.
still be made attractive and nourishing.
A teacher OF small children in a New
York large school declared recently that
1t was pathetic to see the luncheons that
most OF the youngsters brought with
then-such thick slices OF corned beef or
ham, such greasy doughnuts, such heavy
pastry and enormous sour pickles. Small
wonder the children look dull and have
pasty compilations In many cases the
or SO careless that they merely give the
children few cents and let them buy
what they want for their iuncheons. The
result Is their boxes only contain cheap
bakers stun and q large portion OF can
dy. The breakdowns among school chill
dren are more the result OF insufficient
nourishment than Of overstudy, she de-
clareS.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18

ettville as II Is and aren't invit.n bank.
ruptcy by anything bigger
AS the country editor was thus deliver
ing himself there shot from the desk o.
the lordly St Ignatius Hotel q bellho7
Yelling Telegram and waving a fellow
envelope before the Texans facs. As ths
latter opened II and read the contents
his countenance lit Up.
sam Houston an Davy' CrockettT
no calculated. invoking the patron saints
OF hts calendar I'm wanted az Balri-
more. Partner wires me that the ecitcr
the convention JOB and IL ournin up N
line with all III redhot Texas delegation
news from the seat OF war Whea's no
next train on the Baltimore Ohiot
Eleven ffty-fve. you say7 I kin make IT,
That Standard fellow is a. mean as s1
in tryin' to beat US. but III make rim
look Ike a Texas mule racin against ths
Texas & Pacifc's through express! Good
By 10 you. ar when you come % Texas
I'll sure be as neighborly TO you as you
all have been TO me"
As II disproving the existence OF the
hookworm in his anatomy. the Banner
editor vanished Ike a streak His speed
would indicate that whatever object IN
life be deems worth pursuing the lyrical
Texan is pretty likely - get An infan'
IN the arts. be is q veritabls OLYMPIC
runner for hustling.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18

leucrs Ou- Oh those meadows o. take car g
OF the entire park system Of Crockett
vile They were operating $500 gaso-
lene lawn mowers fancy lawn moving
with "a buzz wagon > or placing automatic
surinklers 10 spray the greens o. dredg-
ing the lake or digging ditches or laying
coal oil on the roadways or doing any
other Of the myriad things deemed needtul
for the betrerment and perfection OF a
nagnihcent pleasure ground. And IN and
out among the workers went the week
day players, neither side interfering with
,'other. the CLINT Of smartly welded steel
and the white streak Of the tiny spheres
in full fight contrasting beautifully with
the green meadow. the olive lake and the
soubre wooded hills in the distance. And
how the throng Of women players twho
by the way. have their own locker floor
al the golf house, would have amazed
Crockettvlle Down our way woman
who walks when she can ride is looked
upon as a freak; but these sturdy hnick-
erbocker sisters trudged over hill and
vale Ike militant rnarchers out OF YOUR
latest suffragette paraoe. And that for
aught know 70 the contrary, they very
well may be.
1t must cost New York night smart
reflected the Texan. TO give you people
golf as an extra over and above your
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18

q marker 10 the little private histories he
untolded. As we we're s-talkin, Texas
Tommy dancers wriggled and sQuirmed
about the open spaces between Thu
tables Texas Tommy dancers" Shades
u good old Texas. A dirty h0el. sub. on
rne grand Lone star State. Why, II such
dancers down our way ever dared So
much az bulge from the immediate VII
ciritv of Railroad avenue and sought the
eatin' places ard restaurants 20 caEort
I'm tnev'G be- arrested and clappec IN the
county iau sooner'n YOU cud say sam
Houston.
81 dom want tub libel New York. SUBJ
continued tie Texas edi,or Throus"
the kindness OF friends my wife and SELF
have been privileged 20 see considerable
o. your real home lifo and - strikes az
mighty tine. But on the public convey
auces and IN the busy streets I've noted
TWO distinctive feminine types that u
seems 70 me are multiplying out OF all
proportion 20 the rest OF the community
ono o., 'eu1 rs the short understood. white
faced almost anpinic kini-squaos.' or
.br5uers.' YOU New Workers slangiiy call
.ria. the product OF modern fact0ry and
Office conditions II the rev -womon.s
movement f. s-soiu 20 keep on developin
such understood. underied. unoXygenAted
factory workers. Ike the Eustlin. ueuters
"a @ queen bees hive. 7 io- one % ngft
tA. new feulnism O. the last.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18
m Views New York Through Rosy Lens and Blue On
Highly Approves of Muni:i.
pal Golf Course and Zoo.
but Doesn't Think Much
of the City's Night Life.
"a waterrnelon park ?"

Certainly big outdoor incIosur..
admission free or nominal. 10 which
everybody can come o these hot nights
and eat watermelon 10 his or her hearts
content at or 10 cents a slice Over
IN the corner some moving pictures 70
amuse the children, a few ssndheaps, Der.
haps, for the hitler ones to play In. bu,
for the grown folks just fresh air, bsno
music and watermelon.
Going to put some new tangled ideas
in The Banner. too" inquired the New
York friend.
Imagine Wen stick rather close to the
long established policy" was the quick,
shrewd reply. I'VE still regard the COPY
editor as a too ALFRED expensive. orna.
mental luxury: we don't burn ID the
money (as you all do FOR hire OF specia,
correspondents. and We take gosh dingeo
good care not 70 add an extra sheet 70
the usual twelve page size OF The Ban
ner' unless We see the extra advertisin'
comm In 70 pay for it. You New York
papersll slap on four or eight extra pages
any day just TO print a few thousand
words more about q Presidential nomins.
ton or a steamship disaster.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18

And n right court the other evening
saw a woman sentenced 20 the island for
three months on the testimony OF A plain
clothes man who alleged that she had &C
costed him. According TO your remark
able ideas OF justice. II was a crime for the
woman 20 accost g man. but II was no
crime for the plainclothes man 20 &C
cost her, which was exactly what she
said that be did. Can there be anything
meaner in this world than the spectacle
OF the police trapping women after this
fashion The whole proceeding. sab.
struck me as pitifuiy ;-onical. following
as It did the apparent gIorincation OF the
he,Hristfc class IN your night restaurants
and lobster palaces.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18
IN FLY TIME.

Judge J. NJ. Johnson. IN the Court o.
Appeals OF. Kansas City, said reeents
that ~ man made "A drudge Of his we
she was entitled 10 divorce.
There's a type OF man that mariss
woman because he loves her Judge
Johnson said the other evening az a ban
quet. ''and then he proceeds TO make Ok
a slave These houeyed words or io's
followed by this slavery. call 10 my mn1
a little Kansas City girl
she stood before window watchins
fiy that buzzed on the pane.
Fly, she said. does 90 love Heaven
And. impersonating the insect. she an
swered the question with 4 whispeis@
'Ess
g Fly, would 90 hike 20 so 70 Hease"
"a pause and another whispered Esq
''Then-bang! The poor ny was crusns1
on the pane and the little siri SAID UT
umphantly:
Now, 'oo's there"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18
STILL POUNDING DARWINIsM.

80 that wild critters mean more Oh Is
than mere Gagged curiosities. Then. toe
down Texas way. the preachers haven't
vet quit Illuminating against Darwinism
and the theory o. evolution. The doc
trine OF special fiat creation that took
place exactly six thousand years b. O. IS
still preached from many a pulpit and be-
lieved By q large proportion OF our citi-
zens Naturally. therefore. we Ike % visit
the simian house and study YOU New
Workers ancestors. even though We
aren't vet conscientOusly prepared 20
ACCEPT them a. our own. II II the best
show IL New TorE Z think. Your paid
scro0ats In the vsudevilles aren't To .
with M Horuadays educated ape and
chinpanzee, his s.mian buftoous could
give cards and spades 20 the average
Barnum & Bailey clowns.
"CrockettviLe needs O. zoo -uquesuon-
ably. Dsvv Crockett. the founder OF OUR
city. could have established ono eiErt-
years ago BE- capturing tho wild critters
alive But 81 his day IL was the fashion
% XIII varrnints instead OF tanning them.
50 as ~ the matter OF golf Crockettvtne
starts late But We hope % catch ~
What do you think OF New Norks
night life?' asked the New FORK man.
seeking another characteristic viewpoint
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18
THAT HALF MILLION CLUB,

When our linotype operators set up a
piece Of copy IL goes intuh tn paper.
sure. we don't throw away as much type
as we print We cyant afford 10. our
editorial expense varies between : and 70
per cent OF the total cost of producing our
newspaper. On some OF your papers ths
editorial charges alone, m TOLD. amount
20 % a. 60 per cent Of the total cost Vow.
I am rot saying We are not open 70 argy-
ment, or even 70 radical change, bout
n time that new Half Million Club
achieves its purpose and gives Us the
SOC. 900 population that'l make Crockstt-
vile the metropolis Of tn Southwest
Just now. though. We are pleasing Crock
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18
TYPE AS OLD AS BABYLON.

The other much too frequent type has
bold. bu!ring eye=. a narrow nasal bridge.
biz. wide nostrils. red. sensuoua mouth
carmined cheeks and exhibits a marked
tendency O. dewiapped chins. emoonpoint
and abnormal hips You may argue that
this particular type Is a. old a. Babylon
and older and 7 fully agree with you
Their appearance IS nothing move, out
their numbers are. And what IS 20 be the
future % New York and other large cities.
think YOU. when this class snail nave be-
come as influential here a. tho hcterae
were Dr. old Athens or the geishas are IN
Japan VIII g. bs 50 many wears before
some modern That's or Aspasia becomes
the dominating personality Of your big
city,
Frankly. this sort Of talk made the New
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18
EACH ONE HAD PRIVATE LOCKER.

we went into a big building a heap
finer than the Country Club down our
way and In II each OF the golfers, tennis
players, boaters, skaters and poloists had
his private compartment or locker
thousand or so OF EN-, l should guess.
some we're changing their things, Others
we're starting with their tools 10 the hills
and meadows. and the rest were stripping
fer q turn under the hot and cold shower
baths. They were Just the regular run OF
city folks, too-no Astorbllts nor Wander
plancks among 'em. What do these peo-
pie pay the city OF ,'ee York for their
fan?' ! asked Whalen. the locker attend
ant
Muffin at an replied Mr. whalen,
except s. or 81 90 a year for locker
rental OF busy Saturday or Sunday We
issue six hundred numbers 20 golf play
and. counting those that start at O'Clock
in the morning and those that are stiil
cutting the ball on the greens long after
Il il too dark 10 drive from the tees, We
must take care OF over a thousand play
ers a busy day at this one pastime
Isn't that great" was the Texas edi-
tors comment. as be repeated this bit
o. whalen's park lore and chortied at
the very sden. Then he resumed the mar
raffye:
Man. there we're enough municipal gar