The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1912-02-13
New Models in Tailored Toys

New Models in Tailored Toys. Short
The Belt Again Noticed-L
Shades-The New /"
1t is a wise woman who makes a
point of Observation-Disclosures else she
does Without smart, new tailored
suit each spring; and makes a point
OF having it very early In the spring.
In autumn, freshness and d%aintiness
of street attire do not count for so
much as they do in the days when
all nature is putting on new garb and
the fresh clean green of young leaves
n other growing things make rail-
ment that is not equally fresh and
tumn, warmth NJ an effect of lux
ury are the admirable things-last
springs suit. If we'll covered with furs
and accompanied by a feathered VEL
vet toque. may pass muster very sue
cessfully until M has had time to
"turn around" SO to speak, and
acquire the wherewithal for a hand
some fur coat or winter suit. But
woe be to the winter garb that has
to masquerade. with the assistance of
a lace coat-set, a straw hat and a
parasol. as spring raiment! Its pitiful
pretense will be patent to all eyes:
for there is nothing that so clearly
reveals the lack of freshness in either
tailored wear or complexion as I'M
compromising spring sunshine.
Waistline.
And so the Hise woman is out be-
times selecting her fresh, crisp and
dainty new spring toys and this year
the toys are plentiful to her hand-or
to her pocketbook-in a fascinating
in a fascinating and ~bewildering ar
ray of new models. But the variety
with which n meets is all in the
manner of garnishing. The silhoutte
In cvery suit remains the same and
all women Of like physical propor-
tons. cast much the same shadow
upon a wall. Skirts are al narrow
as ever and coats almost as straight,
though here and there among the
high class models one observes a ten
dency toward fitted effect around the
waistline. And by the way. the nor
NAL waistline is 'in again." The Pa
ris tailored suits and costumes show
this return to a lower waistline in
marked manner. Paris is also favor
%ufacturers are taking heart Of grace
after a long period Of what must have
been utter. despair, at the reappear.
ance Of the belt on fashions horizon.
h new coats are not exactly belted,
but sections Of belts are introduced
at front or back Of the garment to
emphasize the waistline. and these
belt-motifs are usually accumulated
! with braid or button trimmings.
The Getaway is the Leader.
The cutaway is by all means the
leader in a styles this spring. Ev-
cry degree Of cutawayism-to coin a
words found in the spring suits.
Very smart models turned out by Gus
tom tailors for willowy figures show
a cutaway effect sloping from a but
ton at the bust to a pointed coat-ta:l
extreme cutaway effect, however,
would be trying to the average figure
and deadly to the stout woman: there
fore much modified getaways are not
ed in the spring models offered in
the shops. But ven the straight,
mannish suits of serge or wool mix
ture. designed for general wear. have
waistline to suggest the popular cut
away effect SC fashionable in Paris
now.
Trimmings Make the SUIT Gay.
This cutaway line, together with
fanciful revers Of contrasting fabric
often in bright color. yards of braid
and dozens of buttons, make the new
spring tailored yea very gay and
dashing In character. and the sober,
mannish suit Of dark color. unrelieved
with trimming. is the exception. Even
when the revers and collar are in self
color there Is very likely to be a coat
set of lace; and this year these coat
sets promise to be more fashionable
than ever. The wide expanse Of clear
white is. however. no longer fashion
able. The coat-set must be creamy in
tone. INT beside the new cream net
and lace sets pure white looks some
with handsome Irish lace sets are dip
ping them in weak tea to give them
the desirable old ivory tint, and this
trick is exceedingly simple, the tea
dipping being done after the lace is
washed and the collar being pinned
out nat, or a pillow, to dry in correct
shape:
go straight, but gracefully cut, skirts
quite as narrow as ever but with the
narrowness relieved by new notes Of
trimming. Sometimes there Is al
tunic opening over an underskirt Of
contrasting material. or of the same
material used in a different direction.
For example. a suit of striped black
and white cosmos mixture had the
stripping used crosswise In the under
skirt and on the cuffs and revers Of
the coat, a very smart effect being
produced in this way.
The "Billfold" Skirt.
Again the skirt may be oDened all
the way down one side Of the front,
the opening widening six inches from
the bottom. to show a V-shaped Sec
ton of (presumable) underskirt. The
"billfoid' skirt is an arrival from
Paris. This skirt Ia very narrow and
straight and there are but two cores.
each tapping over the other 30 that
there is a flap all the way down front
and back-the Maps coming a little to
one side of the center. All these
tunics. folds and flaps r more or
less elaborated and emphasized by
rows Of buttons: and the buttons are
emphasized by buttonhole loops Of
braid which may be two inches long,
or long enough to reach half. way
across front lor back.
slashes appear in all the French
skirts. hut American tailors content
Themselves with slashipg up the skirt