Tensas gazette. [volume] (St. Joseph, La.) 1886-current, 1912-10-04

the WOrm-anQ IL Is Naples
that usually first catches the
tourist from the States;
when he is fresh, when he
Ii bulging-as the case may be some
times-with the fat of many American
dollars. Milan, to be sure. swapping
at the tourist from the north. displays
to much lesser degree a somewhat
similar Characteristic; but as the vic
tim has already had his first lesson
his fall having been broken. so to
speak. by a more or less gradual do
scent through France, with its owa
army Of 'pay-pay-pays," there IL real
ly no comparison.
Having contemplated with rapture
from aboard your ship the really mag
nificent harbor; the picturesque ships.
their sails and rigging enveloped in
rose-colored vapors that have caught
the rays Of the sun; the not far-cis-
tant Vesuvius bathed In respondent
morning mists, and forming a part OF
all this riot Of atmospheric glamor,
everything around you suggesting tho
presence of life and human animation
and stirring something way down in
the depths Of you-you are suddenly
and rudely awakened to the exigent
realities Of the situation, once you are
on shore; having ignored a Fremont
ton in the naked boy diving for pen
MES in your wrapt admiration of his
astonishing skill
II you are a prospective traveller of
the male persuasion, not overbur-
dened with money, take warning, leave
your trunk behind. and II possible
your padded shoulders; they viii both
prove a drain on the purse. Be sure
and take a Baedeker; 1t IL indis-
pensable-but do not fiaunt 1t In pub
lie places; you are recognized with
out 1t, and to expose its red covers to
the air Is to throw out a challenge.
which the street merchant, the shop
keeper, the restaurant man and the
street gamin are not slow to accept.
1t is interpreted as a symbol, a proof
OF your being stranger and green;
a proof OF your being able to AFFORD a
Baedeker-and therefore other things;
a proof also of your curiosity, and
hence suggesting your susceptibility
to temptations.
You Arrive.
You are landed, at the recommends
hon of a friend, In one of those curl
GUS arched Railways, where the cabby,
winking his left eye when you are not
looking, passes you on to the porter,
who energies from a little dark room,
so dark that 1t is only after hearing
voices within that you peer In and dis
Germ the paleness of a face here and
there and begin to wonder how people
could live in the dark, like rats. and
the sun shining In the street, While
waiting for the landlady you take a
look about.
You are on Via Vardones, and you
look up and down the picturesque
street, famous for Donizetti's resi-
dence here, and infamous for one Of
the assassinations which figured In
the recent Cammorra trials. Dirty,
but picturequel Unevenly stretches
this thoroughfare of tall old tene-
ments, down grade, toward Piezza
Ferdinando. where several streets con-
verge, like the spokes of wheel On
some of the larger streets of Naples
the sidewalks are large enough to let
two persons walk abreast, If they are
lovers, but Via vardones has no side
walks at all. Where sidewalks should
be women sit around and perform
their household duties; some are
Smelling peas. others are washing
clothes; young mother is rebinding
her baby. who a moment before lay
in his crib as naked as cherub. Here
you see pail lowered on a rope from
the fourth story; the hawkey fills it