New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-02
Amid Bouffant Hips and
Watteau Effects Is Seen
Note of Severity.

ParlS, july E'
The Directoire modes seem never TO he
lost sight OF when the couturiers are oe-
yising new fashions and in spite Of bout
FAINT hips and general leaning toward
the modes of Wetteau and Lancret there
arc r number of smart, military Direc-
toire features 10 be noted. The Direc-
tolre collars We see on lot of the new
Jackets high turnover affairs. faced
With black satin and matched by stiff
little black satin bow on the choher OF
the blouse. Some OF these are seen on the
new summer jackets. very odd and oriSf-
nal. but whether pretty or not-it Is a
question of taste. The jackets are OF a
heavy corded silk, of the brightest colors
almost crude shades OF green, red and
purple. not to forget copper color. the
color oddly Of the moment. They are
worn with white gowns. and the black
collar uaAes them at least becoming TO
q piuuapt face
httng hat fog a costume of this sort
Is he tricOIne. Another shape which
seems 10 suit it as well. and is newer
than tine three-cornered hat, has round
beehive crown. with no brim at all for
about tour inches in front. The brim
starts IN the sides. rises almost straight.
clrviug out IN a deep. outstanding brim
behind. \ high, sim ostrich plume stands
Up on one side.
Here are tWo examples OF coat and
skirt suits in which the long waistco2t-
a,aiu q Directoire idea-plays promi-
rept part The first Is midsummer cos
tune oi blue linen. trimmed with biuo
VooIeu embroidery IN a darker shade.
The jacket Is short. hut is not a bOleTo;
It has q dOuLle-6reasted front and round
Ed sides that well cover the hips. Three
straps OF the wool embroidery. held by
white porcelain buttons and put on dag
onally to conform 70 the curying, closing
line Of the Jacket. trim the front. In tho
centre Of the back the jacket opens 10
show q panel OF the embroidery; this is
covered Tor a short space at the waist
line by a buttoned point OF the blue linen
forming the jacket the panel broadens
helow this and falls in q point an inch
or two below the bottom of the coat.
The skirt is straight and untrimmed. and
over this hangs 2 short tunic Of the wool
len embroidery. but very thin, almost like
a net. Between the sides Of the tunic
are the long ends OF q white linen waist
coat, soft and uutrimmed save by elabo-
rate hemstitching. When the jacket IL off
We sec that the vest turns into little
tight fitting blouse with a soft nous
seine de sole gUimpe above. over the
top OF the jacket hangs a deep cape col
lar Of the linen. hernstitched to match
what appears below the coat II may de-
fine the picture more closely 10 state
that tho Nest appears 70 come up again
over the top OF the coat 70 form the caps
collar
The second costume is smart tailored
affair, consisting OF a Directoire Jacket
of fuchsia-colored cloth. with high black
eatin chOker. skirt OF white crepon and
waistcoat Of white cloth. The Ornamental
tons on the coat take the form OF large
buttons. covered with cloth, with Imita-
ton buttonholes strapped with white.
There are four OF these behind. defining
a high waist line. the same on the
sleeves and at the top Of the revers,
and single button closes the Jacket,