Evening star., 1912-10-06

these days that fashion is really con-
ferring favor in decreeing that street
costumes of all but a very formal ma
ture shall show the boot. Patent
leather boots with buttoned tops of dull
calf - the correct and conventional
street boot for the conservative woman
ARE worn with this caracul coat.
French rat. quadruped hunted in the
sewers of Paris, is also used as
substitute for sealskin and really one
cannot turn up ones nose at French
rat and then take kindly to American
skunk. Plucked muskrat and dyed
raccoon also masquerade occasionally
as genuine seal; but for these mas
queraders one must pay the genuine
seal price. and most women prefer to in
vest in frank imitation at a fourth the
price. Two charming sealette coats for
limousine and carriage wear are iilustrat-
ed also. One of these coats is reSula
ton evening g-dresS model and has the
graceful cut and white fur trimming
that give it an indisputable evening
! character. The other coat. intended for
! limousine use over bridge or Wis ting
| gowns in the afternoon, has stralRhter
cut and falls to the hem of the skirt,
| though it is not trim enough In line TO
suggest a garment built for walking
wear Street coats show tendenc! 10
define the lines of the figure trine:
and are nipped in wee DIT more at
the waist line than has been the case
| for several seasons. The street coat
also is a few inches shorter than the
slkirt-sometimes as much as SIX lnciie''
shorter-and the full-length coat Gov
| ering the frOck to the feet suggests
dressier or more wraplike model.
The limousine coat OF sealette is cut
with an odd, new inserted piece under
| &1sv fy,ych hnd
around with silk cording and having
/ slash down the center trimmed with "a
| cord and tassel. The huge collar OF gray
wolf lends added elegance and d1stinc-
| ton to the coat. The other coat, intended
for evening wear. has collar of white
fox. one side of this collar extending
| down over a broad rever OF white bro
caded velvet which crosses the coat to
the left knee. The garment Is nned with
| white brocaded silk.
+ =
The outside of coat is not the only
| consideration Of the fashionable and high
class furrier. He spends almost as much
time on the inside of the garment, setting
the lining in to perfection and trimming
it with all manner of little gayeties in the
way of pipings, shirrings. fancy pockets
bits of embroidery and even garlands of
| small silk flowers which are so placed
that they show effectively when the coat
is thrown open. OF course, an opera or
restaurant coat spends most of its time
| thrown, inside out. over chair behind
it's wearer, so it's lining is very impor-
tant consideration. Every woman of the
| present generation recalls the young lady
| i'm one of Louisa Alcott's stories who
| never made the mistake of sitting on Il
blue sofa in a green frock when she
| wished to engage q gentlemanS attention; :;
] ncI,i hi. Ic
quite as fastidious about the background
her coat lining is going to make for her
evening gown. For lining the most costly
coats the furriers use rich satin and
velvet brocades, bengalne veiled with
chiffon, chameleon silks and heavy OF
tomans or faille silks. Less expensive
coats have attractive Innings OF two tone
| taffeta. charmeuse and thinner brocades.
4 delightful mink coat, built for an Amer
lean woman in Paris. has lining of buff
brocade, with the tiniest possible pleat-
ings set into all the seams like pipinss
No more than quarter-1nch or the pieat-
ing stands out from the Seanl-which is
corded-and the lines of the garment are
in no way interfered with by the effec-
tive lining trimming.
The lining is also very conspicuous
feature of the fashionable muff, often
forming part of the Inuff itself, the center
only being formed Of fur. The muff lin
ing usually matches the shade of the pelt.
and some of the moleskin muffs lined
W
tremely beautiful.
V
| Though the woman who OWLS Il hand
| some set of black lynx or fox will un-
| doubtedly take delight in wearing it this
! winter, she who wears sable, mink mar
| ten, skunk or bear will be more in ac
cord with fashions mandate; for just
| now the brown furs are most modish for
! street wear Russian sable. of course,
! heads the brown list, but this fur is al
1 most beyond reach now, SO scarce is 1t
and so fabulously high priced. American
I bear is not a bad substitute for Russian
sable, and this pelt. while not extremely
expensive, is very satisfactory. 1t is also
| so thick and long that little of 1t goes
! a long way in trimming.
/ There are no successful limitations of
mink, though some furriers streak mar
mot with black paint in an endeavor to
| produce the rich, stripe effect of the mink
pelt. After month or two OF wear.
however, the hand-painted mink shows
up for what it is and its wearer is apt to
| wish she had invested in a cheaper fur
| or franker substitute. Australian chin
| chilla is a very satisfactory pelt, if one
| cannot afford the fragile, costly real chin
| chlla; and civet is not a bad substitute
| for leonard. Fox fur comes at a score of
prices, depending on the length and soft
ness Of the hair, the dressing of the skin
| and the color. Fox may be dyed almost
any color, but the blush gray shades are
| orange" fox-which is really no more or
| less than the plebeian little red brother
of American fence cornerS-lS at the PIN
| nacle of fashion, placed there by Poiret;
and this pelt will doubtless soon be as
| xpensive as that of the rare white
ilaSka fox.
| Taupe shades are this season the craze.