davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
The Finishing Touch.

The top of the petticoat must be fin
ished with facing not over one-half inch
wide when completed. If the petticoat is
made with gathers at the back the facing
may be used casing for the gather
ing tape. In plain model hooks and eyes
or buttons and buttonholes are used to
effect a closing.
Petticoats are generally finished at the
lower edge with dust ruffie of the ma
terial about three inches wide, which is
sewn to the edge of the skirt They are
further elaborated with deep fiounce
from twelve to fifteen inches WIDE applied
after the skirt is finished. and placed so
that the lower edge of the fiounce is ex-
actly even with the lower edge of the ruff
file on the skirt. At the top the raw edge
is concealed under a tuck in the skirt,
which is basted down and stitched close
to the edge, or strip of the material or
braid can be placed over and stitched
on both edges.
All seams of nightgowns are made with
FRENCH fells When the garment does not
slip on over the head hens finish the
closing. edges. The sleeves are placed ac-
cording to the notches in the patterns.
and the armhole seams may be finished
either with French fell or with a
binding.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
Latest American Fashions
BY CORA MOORE.

The charm Of delightful color schemes
made possible through the use of trans
parencieS continues to make itself felt
in the new spring and summer models.
In the free Introduction of lace, particu-
larly that of bold patterns, such as the
macrames and of more aristocratic
guipure and chantilly. an entirely diff
ferent effect is produced from the yelled
models of the past two seasons so that
it is safe to predict a new lease of life
for the fashion of sheathing one fabric
with another which must otherwise al
ready have about run its course.
The model sketched for today is IL
Illustrative of this point. Without the
guipure, graceful as the lines and the
general effect might be. the gown could
hardly be written down the novelty 1t
distinctly is in it's present state
Old blue charmeuse. cream tinted chif-
fon cloth and guipure lace banding are
the materials used in it's construction.
The foundation skirt. very narrow. is
banded at the foot with the lace. to be
met by the apron tunic of the chiffon
which is hemmed up seven inches deep
Across the back is a section of the
charmeuse draped at knee depth over
a gold braid ornament and allowed to
fall from there in a train that after
back and caught to the foundation skirt
The surplice bodice is Of the chiffon,
banded just above the belt narrowly with
charmeuse. Then on one side 1t is draped
with the lace, which crosses diagonally
over the shoulder and down the back
and front. terminating in a pepIum,
while, following the same course, chiffon
drapes the other side. The sleeves are of
the chiffon cloth hemmed and hem
stitched
Sleeves are always long or very short.
In the latter case they end above rather
than at any point below the elbow.
Many of the evening dresses have no
sleeves at. all. merely a shoulder dra-
perry. while, contrarily. others have the
sleeve an important and conspicuous fea-
ture. Frequently, of course, the sleeve
must take it's cue from the character of
the dress. as. for example. with the Louis
XVI style and it's soft panniers. Here
the straight sleeve, gathered a little
along the inside seam and finished with
a ruffie, is seen. With the 'tunicless frocks
a close. straight sleeve seems to be the
most appropriate. and where a f1chu is
introduced the sleeve is shorter, wider
and usually longer on the inside than
out-finished. that is, in line that slants
toward the inside.
Soft but characterize colors are being
used for evening now, rather than very
ethereal-looking tones and tints that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

To assist one in properly arranging q
pattern. a line of perforations is placed
through each piece of the pattern. ana
complete directions for placing the pieces
are printed on the label
All edges TO be laid on a fold OF the
goods are marked ., so that there
can be no mistake made. These must
be taken care Of first and IL the goods
is not double width II must be folded.
double. lengthwise for a sufficient dis
lance TO cut these parts of the pattern.
After they are cut. If the goods lis with
out nap or up and down, the most
economical and satisfactory way to work
Is to fold the two ends of the goods to-
gether straight across. with the right
side I'm. and pin the pattern on IL doubled.
When the goods is double width IL Is
left in the original fold and the pattern
placed. The large pieces should always
be arranged first, because there is gen
orally sufficient room left between them
to lay smaller pieces. Single width goods
must be folded lengthwise throughout the
center, and if. when laid in this way, it
Is not wide enough to cut the garment
without piecing. each piece must be cut
separately from the full width of the
goods. Each piece must be laid perfectly
smooth and pinned firmly i'm position,
so that 1t will not slip. before commenc-
ing to cut A large pair of sharp shears
must be used for the cutting. and the line
of the pattern must be accurately fol-
edges. After all the pieces are cut out
the notches are clipped. These markings
must be made just as shown In the pat
tern, for not only do they indicate which
pieces are to be Joined but the notches
must be arranged exactly opposite each
other when basting in order 10 Dr.ng the
various pieces i'm the proper place.
Many goods are sold with the under
| standing that the necessary precautions
| to prevent spotting and shrinking have
| been taken. but unless there is guarantee
| to that effect the purchaser Is taking
| great risks not to guard against all dan
ger of having a garment spoiled by
| trea ting the goods as II should be treated
before making Ii into a gown.
Wooden weaves are sponged for two
reasons-to prevent them spotting and
to keep the goods from shrinking when
| IL is pressed after the garment is made.
| Place a cotton cloth, thoroughly satu-
rated with warm water. SO that II en-
tirely covers the entire surface of the
goods and roll the whole as tight as
| possible. The goods should then be
| wrapped in several thicknesses OF dry
muslin and laid away for twelve hours.
When the material is unwrapped IL must
be hung on a line to dry as quickly as
possible. If care has been taken to keep
the goods smooth enough to work with
ii will not be necessary to iron IL, as the
garment when finished will require a
thorough pressing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
Mistakes in Bidding at Auction
Assisting Instead Of Doubling.
BY r. F. FOSTER

One very common mistake i'm bidding.
especially by the third hand, is raising
his partners no. trumper when it is over
called. instead of doubling the suit de-
clared against it. 1t is only when the
original call by the dealer is one of no.
trumps that this is likely to lead to any
sometimes fatal
When a player in the dealers position
goes no-trumps he usually does it on
general principles. having a hand which
is above average, but not once in a
hundred times probably is the hand a
certainty for even the odd trick in itself
AS rule, it is based on three protected
suits. or one strong suit and two re-
entries, but always on a partner rs well.
When such an opening bid is over
called with a suit, it will usually be found
that the suit called is the one in which
the no-trumper is weak, or it Is bluff,
and the Dealers chief anxiety then is to
know whether not his partner can stop
that particular suit.
In all such situations it is the duty of
the third hand to confine himself to
giving this information. and 1t is never
his duty to increase his partners call to
two no-trumps. In two years experience
at auction / have yet to see hand in
which the third player was justified in
assisting his partners no-trumper unless
he had a no-trumpef himself, safe in
every one of the four suits. Every time
a player does it, it Is mistake.
If the third hand has the suit stopped
his duty is to double. If he has two
tricks in the called suit and his partner
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
has a no-trumper. how is the adversary
going to get eight tricks? Take this case
has no-trumper. how IS the adversar
going to get eight tricks? Take this cas-.
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u dealt and called one no-trump. A,
who could not make more than six tricks
in spades. If that, thought he would try
to push the no-trumper up to two if he
could. but he did not relish bidding six
spades to do it, SO he declared two dia-
monds, confident that he would not be left
with 1t. In this he was quite right. but it
was that went the two no-trumps. and
when every one passed the contract was
promptly set for fifty points.
ANY one would have bid two no.
trumps with my cards. was US excuse
after the hand, and to this the onlookers
agreed, although his bid is palpably
wrong. His correct call was to double
two diamonds to show the suit stopped
It is the dealers business to go on to
two no-trumps if he wants to, not Y's,
because the dealer knows what he has
and Y does not. 1t is Us duty to show
what he can do with the diamond suit
and nothing else.
u having the ace of diamonds himself,
would know at once that the call was a
bluff, because to stop the suit must
have king and queen, and u would let
the double stand to see how A was going
to pull himself out of it, as A has that
chance. The result would have been a
grand slam against the declarer winning
$40 points, instead of losing balance of
twenty.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
SART0RIAL HINTS.
By Elizabeth Lee.

The very latest idea in neckwear is the
side frill very wide at the top and grad
uated to a point at the bottom, just as we
have been wearing for some time past.
with the addition of a c0lored reyer en-
oroldered In white or vice versatile
background white and the decoration
worked out in delicate colors. saw an
exquisite little accessory in this model
carried out in pale coral pink and white.
The frill of fine lawn was edged with
Irish crochet lace about one and one-half
inches wide and the rever was pink,
scalloped on the edge and embroidered
in white.
Eight dollars and fifty cents would buy
this pretty article. but it was so simple
any girl could fashion it for herself at
less than 50.
The bit of lawn costs next to nothing
and yard of edging at a dollar will be
sufficient for trimming. The dainty en-
broidery on the rever would be out Of
the question unless one were skilled In
such stitching, but an embroidered hand
kerchief say at $50. II cut diagonally.
you are, all ready for adding, and with
out the least bit of trouble.
No wonder the girl with ideas and deft
fingers can dress on next to nothing at
all.
The frill is gathered, of course. and
the rever laid on plain. Half a yard of
baby Irish insertion will come to about
80 cents. and this holds the frill.
Another exquisite novelty suitable for
the elderly woman is a scarf of finest
lawn, pure white buttonhole scalloped
on the edges. At first sight the scarf
looks like a bureau cover, but not after
one has seen the ends. These are APP
pliqued with lawn in a delicate color en-
broidered in white. the background also
embroidered in satin stitch and English
eyelet, with here and there motifs of fine
lace.
can imagine how very much this love-
ly scarf would be appreciated as gift,
and SO Is really only q reasonable price
for it. but 1t could be made for very much
less II one can sew nicely and is willing
to be patient.
The scalloping is simple, while for dec
Grating the ends the handkerchief before
mentioned (also the bought lace and en-
broidery motifs) could be brought into
service with extremely good effects. All
these are hand wrought. therefore worthy
of their place in the beautiful whole.
To go back to the first jabot, IL this
is made at home it will then be possible
to have handkerchief and frill to match
both in color and decoration. an impos-
sibility when the jabot is bought ready
to wear.
The Robespierre collar is the popular
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
WHEN SPEECH Is GOLDEN.
By Ruth Cameron.

There is an old-fashioned rule of cour-
tesy that it is not good manners to COM
ment, even very favorably, upon the
clothing, household furnishings and other
possessions of ones acquaintance, unless
the intimacy is extremely close. Now,
we certainly suffer from disregarding
some Of the old-fashioned rulings. but it
seems to me that this is one which is
servance, and 1 am happy to say that it
is growing more any more common to
honor 1t in that way.
/ brand new acquaintance was calling
on me the other day. We talked of the
weather and kindred topics suitable for
brand new acquaintances. Had she obeyed
the old time ruling in regard to personal
comment. we should probably have gotten
no closer to each other. But fortunately
she disobeyed. l had noticed that she
was cycling a quaint old-fashioned secre-
tarv which is the pride of my heart. and
finally she burst into vocal admiration.
From this pleasant comment we promptly
proceeded to a general discussion of an
tique furniture, of which we are both ar
dent admirers, and instead of parting
mere acquaintances, we laid the founda-
lions of pleasant friendship upon our
mutual ardor for things colonial
I believe that this rule of silence was
supposed to be especially strict in regard
to commenting upon any food set before
one, and. of course, to speak of each ar
ticle of food and concentrate the atten-
ton upon the table rather than on the
feast of reason and the flow of soul,
supposed to be going on above it. is bad
breeding. But to speak out ones enjoy
ment of some particular dish; to tell the
hostess when she has hit the very bull S
eye of ones preference in the choice of
her salad or dessert; to appreciate bit
of good cooking: even to give the SINGER
est form of fattery by asking for recipes
surely this is kindness to ones hostess.
And what is real courtesy. after all, but
kindness crystalliZed into formsi
On going to pay her first visit to a new
ly married friend, an older woman was
met at the door by the new husband
whom she had seen but once or twice be-
fore, with a pleasant greeting and then
the frankly admiring comment: "And
what a pretty hat" She is a woman of
thorough breeding. but instead of being
offended she received the greeting in the
spirit in which 1t was intended and an
swered promptly: And what a nice
young man to tell me So
This is the spirit of the day, and, to my
mind, it is a very pleasant spirit. To be
sure. such comment may be carried to
excess, or 1t may be made without the
sincerity behind it that stamps compli-
ment as valuable. or it may be uttered IN
q manner that is too abrupt or familiar
to be pleasing.
Avoid these excuses and you may
speak out your compliments on almost
any subject, and not be, in the least, i'll
bred.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

seam. and from there to the notch
at the front gather the fuliness OF the
sleeve to fit the armhole. After properly
distributing the gathers finish Blasting
the sleeve and armhole together; stitch
the sleeve in place and then cut the raw
edge close to the seam and turn the
goods and make the fell
When yoke model is to be made the
yoke should be cut double and the seams
Joined with a fell. The top OF the skirt
portion OF the garment Is slipped between
the two yoke pieces and the edge finished
with a row of stitching
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
Fads and FancieS.

Negliges in both empire and straight
effects are shown.
Ratine and macrame .all-over laceA
are used for peplum blouses.
Frocks Of changeable taffeta are trim
med with narrow velvet ribbon.
One lingerie dress has a sash edged
with narrow ValencienneS lace.
Street suits of white serge and fine
Bedford cord continue to be popular.
In very deep mourning, tiny bands,
folds and piping of crepe are used.
The smartest low shoes Of black patent
leather have tops and heels of white.
Macrame, filet and Venetian laces ap-
pear as parasOl borders and insets.
Fans of gauze decorated with water
colors and sequins look well with gowns
of chiffon and net.
Deep capelike collars of lace or en-
broidered linen are to be worn with plain
dresses of colored linen.
The newest additions to embroideries
embroidered agaric.
A lovely jabot of pleated cream tulle
and lace has small roses embroidered on
the tulle in tones of pink.
Black and white chantilly is a favorite
trimming for the frock of soft satin, chif-
fon and pompadour taffetas.
Embroidered net and oriental lace
founcings and landings are lavishly used
on inexpensive frocks with very effective
results.
Thin chantilly lace wells in rose color
worked In fine black silk thread, are said
to improve the appearance of the COM
plexion.
Blouses on the peplum and casaque
style have, judging from the unusual
variety in evidence, found ready accept
ance.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
Casserole of Rice and Meat.

Boil one cup of rice until tender. Chop
fine half-pound of any cold meat. Sea-
son with a half teaspoonful of salt, one
Of pepper. one-fourth tea
spoonful of celery salt and one teaspoon
full of finely chopped onion. Add one
beaten egg. two tablespoonfuls of fine
cracker crumbs, and ynoisten with enough
hot water to pack 1t easily. Butter a
small mold. line the bottom and sides
half an inch deep with rice. pack in the
meat. cover closely with rice and steam
forty-five minutes. Loosen IL around the
edge OF the mold. turn it on platter and
pour tomato sauce over 1t.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

shape just now, the collar stiff and
starched. ending under a jabot of net
pleated and rather square at the ends.
The collar comes separately as WELL
and the handkerchief idea would seem
to hold good here also. With two or
three handkerchiefs in different colors
and designs, one could make changes
to harmonic with the dress or suit
worn, using a white, or. newer still,
pale tan collar for every jabot, and, of
course, handkerchief to match should
peep from the coat pocket.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
To Place the Sleeves.

To place the sleeves for a fell finish
pin together the notches in the armhole
and in the sleeves so that the seams come
on the right side of the garment, and,
starting at the notch at the front, haste
them together downward with an ordi-
nary seam from that point to the north
at the back, and fasten the thread.
FROM that point to the shoulder
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
spiced Preserved Currants.

Pick over seven pounds currants. stem
and wash. Put into preserving kettle
with five pounds Of granulated sugar, a
tablespoonful each cloves and cinnamon,
two teaspoonfuls allspice and pint of
vinegar. Simmer about an hour and seal
in pint jars. Never use tin or iron ves-
sells or spoons in cooking currants. as
their acid acts upon metals, spelling both
the color and flavor Of the preserve.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
Jellied Strawberries.

Take one ounce OF gelatin, one-half
pint OF cold water. one quart of straw
berries, one cup of powdered sugar. one
half pint Of sweet cream. Soak the gel
attn in cold water until soft. Then place
on the back Of the stove to dissolve. Press
the berries through sieve. Add the SUI
gar, and when the gelatin is clear and
cold stir that in also. Whip the cream to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
Tomato Salad.

Select ripe tomatoes OF equal size. Peel
carefully and scoop. out the center. Set
on Ice to chill. When ready to serve fill
the cavity with chopped CELERY and
chopped nuts. not chopped too fine. Cover
with q tablespoonful of salad dressing.
Serve on lettuce leaves or sprigs of pars-
ley.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
Clam Broth.

Wash thoroughly six large shells con-
tanning CLAIMS and put them over the fire
with cupful OF water. The shells will
open and the juice from the CLAIMS como
with the water. When this stage Is
reached the broth Is practically done. Re-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

Basques are gradually creeping into
favor for blouses and bodies Of summer
frocks. but these are GOOD only for
women who are really tall and slender.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

the broth. 1t will not need salt, but you
may add whipped cream to it, or plain
cream.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
The TaiI0rmade NeckWear.

For outings, shirt waist accompani-
ments and sports soft double turn
over collars, with square ends. intended
to be worn with bar pins, are made up in
white wide-whale pique, linen and wash
silks in fine stripes. with four-in-hand ties
to match. Some have embroidered dots in
color in the corner of the collar points
and the ends of the tie.
A very new pique stock is about four
inches high, except under the chin, where
there is q square low cut of about an
inch. This Is to be worn with a black
or colored string tie. Another pique turn
over stock comes only around as far as
the ear and shows a crushed satin band
in front for the whole height. Extremely
high collars and very low-cut necks are
both fashiOna BILE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14
LUSTR0US HAIR
FOR WOMEN
Partisan Sage Starts Hair
Growing and Increases
Its Abundance.
No Poisonous Sugar of
Lead or Sulphur in De-
lightful, Retire. shin g
Partisan Sage.

II you haven't enjoyed the marvellous
benefit derived from using refreshing
PARTISAN Sage. the modern hair grower.
beautifer and dandruff remedy, you have
missed q real treat.
Every woman should use PARTISAN
Sage not only to Danish dandruh and
other hair troubles, but to prevent fall
ing hair, badness, grayness and faded
hair. PARTISAN Sage puts life and lus-
ter into any persons hair. 1t keeps the
scalp and hair Immediately clean. and
causes the hair to come in thick and
abundant.
PARTISAN Sage is not a dye. 1t does
not contain a particle of poisonous lead
to discolor the hair or any injurious in
gredient.
Get n bottle today. 1t only costs half
q dollar and is sold at drug stores and
toilet counters everywhere
James O'Donnen guarantees 1t.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

usually come with spring. beautiful eff
fects being produced by arranging them
so that certain sections are veiled while
others are left clear and lustrous. A
great deal also is being done with the
idea of working out design on a foun-
dalton, then Sheathing the whole with
transparency. Especially in the use of
summer materials have many novel eff
fects been evolved through this treat
ment.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

a froth and add the gelatin and berries.
Line a mold with split lady fingers. pour
in the mixture Set on Ice and serve when
Arm and ice cold.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

Wide, fiat pierrot ruffles make a dainty
finish to many Of the newest silk frocks
at the neck. The edge of these ruffies is
sometimes hemstitched, and they are
made of soft Japanese silk.
Slippers for less formal wea1 feature
the military heel in preference to the
Louis Quinze.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-06-14

Mems and Boys Scout Shoes. in tan.
London smoke and black. The largest and
best showing in this city. Our prices are
lowest.