davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06
An Apron Of White satin on this Lace Gown

tation silver, and unless the trimming
is handled with utmost care, the
rhfnestones drop out and the trimming
is utterly spoiled. Chiffon and lace
bodices appear to be held up over the
shoulder with strings of rhinestones,
and for some reason or other, even
when the flesh is we'll covered with
fabric the effect seems to be extreme
~ decollete. Some of the new even
ing bodices are outrageous. They may
pass in Paris, where modesty and con-
sentative taste are not held in the
same regard as over here, but one
marvels that American women
granddaughter of stern old Puritan
settlers in some cases-can wear such
effects. Yet the extreme decolletage
is the fashion, and the modestly cut
bodice, with only a small square or V
of throat showing, really looks prim
and countrified nowadays. But the
limit seems to have been reached in
a French evening gown worn at the
Coincide Francois recently - and in
the audience, too. This gown had a
trailing skirt of f1esh-colored chiffon
over pale pink charmeuse, and above
the high waistline a bodice of pearl
beads sewn on silver net. This bodice
was worn directly over the skin. and
strings of pearls held it over the
shoulders.
Pearls Immensely Fashionable.
Never were pearls more in favor
than they are now, and it is not nee
essary to own fortune in real pearls
to be in the mode. Handsome strings
of Imitation pearls are worn by many
women who can we'll afford the real
sort, and when the imitation is clever
it is almost impossible to tell the diff
ference-except by holding the pearls
in the hand and testing the weight.
Drecon is using pearls a great deal
this season, in trimming effects, ana
some superb Drecoll evening gowns
have net tunics covered with looped
strings of small pearls, in barbar1c,
but beautiful, effect. Pearl fringes
and bands are used on dainty dancing
frocks of light chiffon, and with white
lace pearls are especially lovely.
Small silk roses are also used on
the summer evening gowns, and these
tiny roses are particularly pretty on
debutante dancing gowns. A gown OF
this sort, made by Worth, has a white
satin tunic over a petticoat of lace
f1ounces, and the tunic appears to
button down the back with tiny pink
silk roses, while clusters of roses loop
up the lace dounces on the skirt. Pink
satin buttoned boots with high heels
are provided for this dainty dancing
frock. Another adorable dancing
frock of lavender chiffon has nine
scalloped hounces on the skirt. each
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

worn last season. These silver slip
pers and stockings are worn with
white and colored evening frocks
alike.
The Apron a New Trimming Motif.
Rather domestic in suggestion is the
apron of contrasting fabric, hanging
at the front of rich gown; but apron
effects have crept in, and are un-
doubtedly the fad. The apron gown
pictured is from Jeanne Lanvin, and
is made of black thread lace over
white charmeuse. The vest in the
bodice, and apron hanging below, are
of the white charmeuse and small
crystal buttons go down the center of
vest and apron.
One of the smaller illustrations
shows a new theater cap, which looks
for all the world like a bathing cap,
so snugly does it fit down over the
head and so little hair is visible under
it. This cap is made of thin gold It's
sue, and at it's edge there is a tiny
pleating of Natter blue taffeta to
match its wearer's eyes. A bowknot
made of small loops Of silver braid
sprawls over the front and top of the
cap.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06
Pannier and Train Draperies Ski11fu1ly
Blended Contrasted Color Effects Fa-
vored by the Couturiers-Pear1 and
Rhinestone Trimmings.

black, and black lace gowns are drap-
ed with white. Skirt draperies turn
back to reveal facings of strongly
contrasting color, and vivid bows OF
flowers are added to demure gowns in
daring manner. When managed by
French skill these "contrasty'' effects
are interesting and pleasing, but woe
be to the woman whose dressmaker
has a passion for following French
ideals, but lacks the genius to carry
! them out.
A charming example of the Paris
favor for contrasts is shown in a
gown by Agnes, which has a bodice
and skirt of EN- br oidered white chiffon
over cream colored Bohemian lace. AT
the back and sides of the waist-line
starts a train of black charmeuse,
which is draped up in pannier bunch
es below the hips, and falls in graceful
folds and loops at the back, ending in
small train. Around the waist of
| this gown is a narrow belt of draped
jade green velvet, with a fat bow of
the green velvet against the black
charmeuse at the back. Another
''contrasty'' gown. by Beer. has a
white charmeuse coat to the knees,
opening over a petticoat of shadow
lace f1Ounces- The front edges of the
coat roll back and show a facing of
black satin, and at the back these
black satin coat tails are knotted to-
gether and lifted bit above the trail
ing petticoat of lace. And here is
the sharp touch of color; over the
right knee-just where the coat be-
gins to roll back and show it's black
reverse side-are two great, glowing
American Beauty roses, put there by
a stroke of the French genius that
never makes a mistake. This gown is
belted, over the white satin coat, by a
black velvet belt clasped in front with
a rhinestone buckle, and above the
belt the coat is rounded out in a deep
decolletage, and tucker of shadow
lace shows above.
Dolly Warden Evening Gowns of Flow
cred SILK.
Each Of the French couturiers has
brought out a Dolly Warden Powered
gown, and though differing in partic-
ulars, all these gowns are alike in one
respect-the pannier. A Dolly Var
den costume without a pannier would
be Hamlet with Hamlet left out, or
something equally as disappointing
and, indeed, the pannier, quite as
much as the Powered material, makes
the costume worthy of its name. Pom
padour silks and Powered taffetas in
new and charming patterns have APP
peared like magic in the shops to
make these Dolly Warden gowns, and
as a quantity of the silk is required
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

for the draped panniers, the folk who
have been crying out against the small
amount of material necessary now
adays should cheer up. By the way,
has anybody heard of a tai1or-dur-
ing this era of narrow skirts and
short coats-who. has offered to make
up a suit for less than his regular
price because of the small amount of
material required? But, of course,
this has nothing to do with evening
frocks, so back to Dolly Warden pan
niersi
A very dainty costume of this sort,
by Francis, is illustrated. The bod
ice and panniers are in one, and sug-
gest the old-fashioned sacque, worn
over a stomacher and petticoat during
the Eighteenth Century. The quaint
little gown is made of Pompadour taft
feta, with lilacs and roses in pastel
tints on white ground, and the pan
nier drapery is subdued to slender
lines. The sleeves and f1chu of lace
and net make the gown very sum-
merry, and the color scheme is en-
phasized by a cluster of pale mauve
roses at the corsage. With this Dolly
Warden gown are worn, very properly
high heeled Colonial slippers, and the
picture hat of leghorn is faced with
wistaria taffeta and trimmed with
white pluIneS ana DIack VeIV6I SLreaIn-
ers artistically knotted under the
brim.
Odd Whims of French Couturiers.
While panniers are made to con-
tinue into trains, sashes by the same
token become coat tails. A coat tail
sash reaching to the bottom Of the
skirt is shown in a Cheruit evening
gown of lace fiouncing. The lace
forms a pannier drapery over a petit
coat also of lace, and there is a de-
lightful little coat of cerise chiffon over
the bodice and shoulder. At the back
this bodice extends downward in a
coat tailor, one might say that the
sash of cerise chiffon fell over the
skirt in coat-tail effect. At any rate,
the sash coat tail reaches to the floor
over the lace pannier drapery, and a
big, soft bow of taffeta holds sash end
and lace drapery against the narrow
skirt. Rhinestone embroidery on the
cerise coat and sash, and a large
rhinestone bowknot across the back of
the waistline make this cerise and
white costume very magnificent.
Rhinestone trimming is a perfect
craze in Paris, and the sparkling,
thread-like lines of fiery rhinestones,
edgfng delicate chiffon and lace drap-
cries are wonderfully effective. The
rhinestone band trimming is afro
ciously expensive-one must pay al
most two dollars yard for even a
narrow band of the stones. set in imi-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

may be unutterably deep" yet at the
same time quite perceptibly coquet-
fish. The French have a knack of
making mourning wear more full of
grace and coquetry than even gaily
colored raiment; and though the friv-
olity of French mourning offends the
taste of women in real sorrow, there
are many French mourning ideas
which might be followed with profit
by English and American women who,
accepting the fact that they must
wear black for a certain time, set
tie down to a year or two of dull, I'M
interesting garb of somber hue.
Crepe relieves the dead black of
mourning fabrics and gives much
smartness and distinction to the sim
plest gown. Crepe is very fashionable
now, and is used all through the period
of mourning, not only by the widow,
but by those in mourning for parents, a
brother or sister or a child. Blouses
of chiffon or net trimmed with pipings
Of crepe are exceedingly smart, and
are worn with two-plece suits of
black cheviot or dull finished SERGE
Thin black China silk makes an ideal
summer street frock for the woman
in mourning, and such a frock, sim
ply made, is illustrated. This frock
ply cut bodice, with little yoke of
tucked net, outlined with dull jet
trimming. The sleeve falls over
long undersleeve of tucked net. 1t is
not considered correct in mourning to
wear a frock minus a wrap in the
street, and there are hosts of graceful
scarf-wraps of chiffon, thin silk and
crepe de chine, finished at the ends
with tassels, that make simple mourn
ing frocks very chic.
For house and evening wear there
may be cool, thin frocks of chiffon.
thin black silk, crepe de chine, dull
black taffeta and black dotted swiss.
Dull jet beads and trimming may be
used with such frocks, but bright jet
is not for mourning frocks. Tucks,
hemstitching, pipings and buttons of
the material or dull jet may be used,
and by all means have fuckers, Jokes
and sleeves in these evening and
house gowns of transparent net or
chiffon. The Dutch neck is never
worn out of doors by the woman in
stock collar will give the smart cor
rectness necessary, and the collar
must be tall enough and carefully
enough fitted to the neck to prevent
any suggestion of the loose or sloppy
appearance which Immediately makes
mourning commonplace. If the stock
and yoke are made of very transpar-
ent net or chiffon a double thickness
of the material should be used, for
anything approaching a decollete eff
feet is in the worst of taste with
mourning costume.
The widows veil is as interesting In
its way-from a romantic standpoint
as the brides veil, though one alas
typif1es a loss of the happiness that
the other symbolizes! The widows
veil is thrown back after the first
few months, but Its graceful, volum-
inous folds envelop it's vearer for a
year at least. A perfectly draped veil
and bonnet for the widow are pic
tured. The bonnet is slightly larger
than an ordinary toque and is faced
inside with white crepe.
White crepe neck hxings are be-
coming and fashionable, and are worn
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

- HERE is no reason why the wo-
~ man in mourning should not be
as comfortable in her black
~ garb as her sister who revels in
summary pastel tints. The days of
stuffy bombazines and wool mourning
fabrics have passed, and thin silks,
crepes, dull finished black mohair and
various cotton and silk weaves are at
the command of the wearer of mourn
ing. Black, at best, is warm color
to look at, and unfortunately the wo
man robed in mourning habilaments
is often depressingly warm in sugges-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

- HE average woman puts her
formal evening gowns away
with a sigh of relief at the be-
- ginning of summer, along with
the dress suit of her better half. and
gives herself up to the consideration
of summary raiment; but as some one
has remarked, "one-half the world
never sleeps" and this statement,
though made in another connection.
might easily refer to the fashionable
half which goes to bed in the wee sma'
hours, even in midsummer and in the
vacation part of the year. There is a
breathing spell during May and June,
which some of the fashionable folk
spend in running across to Paris for a
little shopping. Then begins the sum-
mer social season, quite as important
in its way as the winter season in
town, and more delightful because of
the out-of-door entertainments and the
slight letting up of extreme formality
and ceremoniousness of town life.
July and August at Newport are
very gay, indeed. The London sea-
son is over by then, and many titled
and Honorable somebodies are visiting
at the great Newport Cottages" and
taking part in the dinners, garden
parties, balls and other festivities
Southampton and Bar Harbor are not
far behind Newport in a whirl of
sayeties, more less formal and
later on, Lenox and Tuxedo have their
brief, but important, social seasons
The woman who appears in society a
great deal through the summer sea-
son, must naturally be provided with
number of evening gowns, for how
ever she may move about on a round
Of country-house visits, the same peo-
pie, also moving about, will be met
again and again, and of course no
fashionable woman cares to appear
more than half a dozen times in the
same gown. After that her maid dis
poses Of it, and nobody knows better
than the canny ladyss maid Just
where good prices may be had for
Madame's .scarcely-worn finery.
Panther Effects Noticeable In Evening
Gowns.
The dancing and dinner gowns for
summer wear are not as sumptuously
elegant as were the winter gowns.
heavy with velvets, brocades and gold
lace, but they are exquisitely beautiful
none the less, with their drapings of
soft satin and chiffon; their f1ounces
of costly lace and their clever color
contrasts What the photographer
would call "contrasty" effects are all
the rage now in Paris, and surprising
combinations of fabrics are used with
striking success. White lace gowns
have panniers and trains of dead
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

ward on the skirt. which is not really
lifted at all. At the foot, between the
Tapped edges of the lower ruff1e the
little slippered or booted foot shows
plainly. High-heeled boots of satin,
with crystal buttons, are affected by
smart women for evening wear this
season, and there are buttoned strap
slippers, which come high over the in
step in very chic effect. Silver slip
pers with pale silvery gray silk stock
ings, are more fashionable this year
than the gold slippers and stockings
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

f1ounce edged with a tiny quilting of
lavender taffeta. Clusters of violets
are caught here and there among the
scalloped f1ounces, and at the crossing
Ola draped fchu bodice. Many of the
lace and net dancing frocks for mid
summer evenings have three or more
lace ruff1es on the skirt, lifted at the
left side and tapping over each other.
Sometimes a festoon of roses runs
from the lifted ruff1es to the belt line
to emphasize the lifted effect, though
the ruff1es are, of course, sloped up
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1912-07-06

Veil for a Young Widow, Draped in
Modish Manner.
ton on broiling summer day; but
there is no reason why she should
be warm in reality, and she is likely
to appear much more smartly dress
ed in her trim, thin black than 9TH
ers in crumpled linens or carelessly-
fitting tub frocks.
The wearer of mourning will wise
1y buy a few well-made things, of
very best material rather than
quantity of cheaper clothes: for only
the finest materials are distinguished
in black: and it should always be kept
in mind that mourning wear, be-
cause it may not make any appeal
with charm of color, must be distin-
guished and elegant to be pleasing.
There is no getting around the fact
that it costs more to dress in mourn
ing than in colors; but the mourning
period is short, after all, and most
women prefer to expend a little more
at this time, taking excellent care of
the few clothes purchased, than to go
about looking frumpish or pitiable in
cheap black.
There are certain conventions which
must be observed, if ones mourning
is to be correct. Be it remembered
that mourning is not deep simply be-
cause it is woe-begone, but because of
it's adherence to the regulations that
govern deep mourning. So long as it
is built of proper materials and con-
forms to certain rules, first mourning
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1912-08-10

80
SETTLEMENT POSTPONED
The Chicago City Railway Co.
and the Chicago Railways Co.
have managed to put off the set
t1ement of the wage scale with the
union until August 10.
The presidents of the two com
panies secured the delay by say
ing they were only fgureheads in
the companies, without the power
to grant wage concessions.
They have promised to go
East to see the Wall street hnan-
ciers who are the real heads of
the companies, and bring back an
answer by August 10.
1t is understood by Interna-
tional President w. D. Mahon of
the car men that any increase.
granted will in the case of the two
surface companies date from Au-
gust l, and in the case of the Ele-
waited from June l.
President Busby of the Chicago
City Railway Co. again repeated
his declaration that there would
be no strike, but without saying
anything at all about what he in
tends to do about getting the
Wall street heads of the road to
give the men decent living wages.
President Mahon had few re-
marks to make today about the
Hearst newspapers. He desired
to know why they should tell him
that he MUST arbitrate, while at
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1912-08-10

the same time they were refusing
to arbitrate their differences with .
the union ,pressmen they locked
out.
Mahon and other union off
Gals went into conference with
Britton l. Budd of the Elevated
this afternoon. Only questions
touching on working conditions
were taken up. All wage ques-
tions will be left until August 10.
Mayor Harrison is still doing
nothing to ease the situation
unless he happens to have his fin
gers crossed. \
BASEBALL LEADERS.
Batting. G. Av.
Cobb, Detroit, Amer. 81 .424
Sweeney, Boston, Nat. 90 $40
Club Batting.
Athletics, American. ... .282
New York, National. .... .289
Club Fielding.
Boston, American. ...... .961
Pittsburg, National. ... 800
Stolen Bases.
Milan, Wash, Amer. ..... 90
Bescher, Gin, Nat. ..... 40
Pitching. w. l..
Wood, Boston, Amer. e.. % 4
Marquard, New York, Nat p 5
Judge VIM. F. Cooper broke
the summer divorce record by
hearing IS divorce cases in SUI
perior court yesterday. No de-
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1912-08-10

Judge VIM. F. Cooper broke
the summer divorce record by
hearing IS divorce cases in SUI
perior court yesterday. No de-
crees entered.
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1912-08-10

ed that lumber interests had put
up money to back Gov. Haskell
in fight for senate seat. Will
press charges.
Observation-Disclosures gov
eminent is trying to borrow ST.
100000 to finance war against
Hayti.
The day book. [volume] (Chicago, Ill.) 1911-1917, 1912-08-10
WEATHER FORECAST

Fair tonight and Sunday, for
Chicago and vicinity; somewhat
warmer Sunday; light to moder-
ate northwest winds, becoming
variable.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1912-12-13

Su pedido sera Waldo ST 10 deposita Vd. en- ell
correo, en- cualquier parte que sea, antes de la
media noche del dia II de Diciembre, no importa
cuando 10 recbamos. Pero aunque nos 10 trajera
Vd personalmente el dia 18 de Diciembre por la
maiiana, llegara demasiado tarde.
Solo quedan algunas horas; no desde1e Vd
una oportunidad que no volvera presentarse ja-
mas Aqui esta el modelo de pedido; cortelo
mandenoslo ahora mismo.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1912-12-13

La Biblioteca International la primera obra
castellana de alcance verdaderamente universal,
terarias de hispano-america, junto con las de to-
dos los demas paises del mundo, costara e doble
mas que ahora, desde el dla Is de Diciembre en-
adelante Ell dia II de Diciembre es la Ultima
cion enviandonos ell modelo de pedido con Ell pago
inicial de So.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1912-12-13
IA ULTIMA 0P8R TuN{bAb

Martes, II de Diciembre termina, definitiva-
corriente de la Bibloteca International de Obras
Famosas.
Garantizamos que la oferta hecha objeto
de dar conocer la obra cuanto antes, pro-
longara despues del dia II de Diciembre, que
nunca sera renovada en- 10 successive.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1912-12-13
SOCIEDAD INTERNATIONAL

Todos los pagos giros deben hacerse
a H. MAYNES o 4 So representante.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1912-05-27
Iv. A MAD SCRAMBLE.

Feeling the tug at his crown. the car
takes It on the run for his palace, as he is
not much OF a scrspper. But there Is a
rough and tumble fight on the scene
without the cars assistance. The sailors
at once break their ranks and engage In
mad scramble for the diamond picked out
of the crown by the -theiving Russian
seadog
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1912-05-27
/. WITH THE GEAR.

/. WITH THE GEAR.
Claude Eclaire and Rosamond have now
enlisted the powerful aid of the car on
their side. Nicholas is almost as anxious
as Claude to capture the great lnterna-
tional crook. who menaees his safety.
Claude believes Desmond is hiding among
the sailors. having obtained uniform
from some Russian seaman, who had
deserted from his ship.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1912-05-27
III. THE THEFT.

IIIs IElEl9 A4iLzT II
AS the car passes along the lines Of
sailors, his official crown glitters in the
sun. The precious stones in 1t almost daz-
zle the eyes Of the simple Russian seamen
and one OF the sailors is tempted beyond
his strength. Just one of the diamonds so
close to his hand would give him a COM
petence. and so he reaches out with
quick grab for the stone.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1912-05-27
WANT ADS

! Want ads received ct any time but
% insure proper classification must
- presented before ~ oesock M. Tor
the evening edition and before 1850
!. N. for norning and Sunday edi'
ttons. Want ads received after suen
hsurs VIII have their first inscrtioa
undsr The heaatEs "too Late 70
QlasstfJ"
s, CASH RATES FOR WANT Ada
REGULAR CIAASSIFiCATioh-Cns
ansertion ~ cent per WORD Ano
cent Per word Tor each supseqeens
cunsccutiye insertion. Each insef'
efon made on odd days I v cent res
word, ei60 per line par monsn
when ed u run without change o.
copy.
DEATHS AND FUNERAL NOTICES.
nANDBERG-Csri. age % years.
Tunerni Tuesday afternoon at 2 from
the resldence, SOL Leavenworth street. IN
ternent Forest Lawn.
HAMLINu--Fr NJ. May a. 1917; aged
IS years, months and IL days
Funeral Monday. May q. at O'Clock
D. N. from North Presbyterian church.
Twenty-fourth and Writ streets. Inter
rnsrt Forest Lawn cemetery. Friends In
~itsd. Deceased 10 survived by his wife;
one son, b. NJ. Hamling, and one daush-
ter. Elizabeth Hamling.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1912-05-27
II. IN THE RANKS.

II. IN THE RANKS.
Sure enough Desmond is In the ranks OF
the sailors drawn up for inspection. There
are many rows Of men behind him. so he
cannot bolt back. and in the meantime the
ezar and Claude are passing down one
rank after another, closely scrutinizing
each sailor as they pass. A few seconds
more and the frightened villain must In
evitably be discovered