Evening journal., 1912-10-26
-REPEDE CHIMES SBOTHPLAIN AND BROCADED

even at that, with the wisdom Of the
sages, we insert fold or panel or bit
of shirrine Just where its presence
will be most effectively felt
The Illustration shows US what re-
suits may be obtained by the careful
choice of hrocaded material The
gown is developed in a combination of
plain and brocaded crepe de Chine In
the beautiful shade of blue known as
ravens wing or night blue a shade
over which all Paris Is enthusiastic
Extending from the throat TO the hem
of the skirt is a panel of the bro
caded crepe de Chine. The crepe Is
woven in floral outline of vines and
roses. The effect of this material is
TO lend a charming touch to a COS
tune for afternoons, at home, or for
the dinner party followed by a trip
TO the theatre.
Crepe de Chine in brocade is al
together the newest thing out in ma
terials, and owing 30 its soft clinging
qualities, offers a long vista of pos
sibilities by way Of drapery and trim
ming In fact, in the use of brOcade.
whether II be crepe, messaline or silk,
when combined with other materials
the making of attractive gowns. For
the bride plain satin or silk in white
with train of the brocade develops
suitably. For the theatre. ball or
elaborate dinner the combination Of
plain and lowered surfaces in the
pastel shades works in to good effect.
For this style of gown. too. let us
Just add in passing that a departure
IN sleeves worth noticing has been
usherer in. 1t has arrived as a ma
tural outcome to the draped shoulder
effect, and Is the sleeve drapery in
long, sweeping flow of lace or chiffon,
fashioned much after the idea of the
former angel sleeve. The other sleeve
may be a close-ftting cap, or simply
band or strap, and is made of
different material. as ribbon or jewel
ed chiffon. Speaking of ieweled ma
terial word about jeweled buckles
may he appreciated Buckles have
come into their own again. and are
now applied to every portion of vo-
mans dress. The happy woman who
has inherited buckles of gold, silver
and rhinestones from Father Knicker-
booker may now dig into the depths
of her treasure-chest and bring them
forth. On the newest gowns the waist
drapery or fichu is caught TO place
by cne of these. while a larger one
/ of the same design confines the folds
of the draped skirt. On the prone
made these buckles are seen on the
low walking shoes, both buckles and
shoes following in color the scheme
of the gown. In gold on brown or in
silver on black they are most attrac-
tive. AS an added touch to girdles
and hats they are a present necessity,
and for iabots and other neckwear
they are invaluable The effective use
In this particular is illustrated in Fig
ure One in the small buckle of dull
gold which clasps the small velvet
bow at the throat
Events have for so long been cast
ing their shadows before that in ns-
tural sequence these mystical forms
must some day assume shape. No
longer Is IL absolutely necessary that
the piece dress. in order to be dig
nifed by the name of gown, be re-
stricted to one fabric. Where trim.
ming is employed the colors must still
harmonic or contrast with the gen.
eral color scheme. but the materia
Of the gown proper may be combi
nation of varied textiles A skirt o
blue silk Is worn with a blue chiffoi
, waist Either or both Of these ma
, have many colored trimmings and in
sertings Velour de laine. a heauti
/ full new velvety fabric which the shop
/ are exploiting Just now, If of BROW
must have a brown color tone for tn