Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-01-29

as well as furnishing the length for the
draped tunicS Of more formal gowns.
Other special features of this costume are
| the wide girdle at the normal waist line,
| the side closing in front outlined by the
| striped taffeta trimming band, again sug-
| costing the Russian blouse, and the full
! length sleeves set in the well defined
| armholes and without fullness
| The waist is designed with wide side
| tuck running down each side, back and
| front and coming out over the shoulders
and concealing the setting in of the
sleeves. This treatment gives smart
tailored appearance to the gown, insuring
| a trim fitting aspect to sleeve and shoul-
der. 1t is in the putting in of the sleeves
that gown is oftenest marked as sue
cess OF a failure. Alongside the tuck on
of stitching is bias fold of the material.
| forming a trimming band on the waist
and continuing below the girdle to the
/ length mentioned, halfway between waist
and knees. This separate band is stitched
| to the gown on the inner SIDE A similar
| trimming is featured on the left side.
outlining the round neck and continuing
down the side, closing on the waist and
skirt to correspond with the band on the
| opposite side. second trimming band
of the bias silk in similar width out
lines the round neck line and the side.
closing part way down in the skirt. These
bands are all in a. 11s-inch width. 4
The ain. straight sleeves are GUY In
one piece and are in full length. They
are set in the armhole under the tuck
and are without fullness. A bias band
of the striped taffeta in 17s-inch width
forms an outline trimming for the edge.
Five buttons Of black crochet produce
trimming line on the outside of each
sleeve. The waist is gtrdled widely with
a crush belt of the black satin. which
is cut on the bias. Two large black
| crochet buttons ornament the side clos
ing.
The pattern Of the waist is cut in
seven pieces, not including the trimming
band. The back is in one piece and the
fronts in two. the right side crossing
over TO meet the narrow left side, where
the closing is effected. The sleeves are
each in one piece and the chemisette
yoke. The trimming bands running
down the waist in back and front are
cut on the bias, and those about the
neck line are shaped with the lines rum
The skirt. measuring two yards at the
bottom, is built on a four-gored model.
with panel cores front and back out
lined by the trimming bands. The side
cores may or may not be darted, &C
cording to the size Of the hips, which.
IL slender, will need no darts.
This model is designed on the sim
piled trimming bands tend to preserve
the youthful. slim silhouette which still
maintains its place In the modes.
Model No. eCharming luncheon or
afternoon frock of pink and white
striped taffeta, with trimmings of black
chiffon and taffeta. and a chemisette of
fine white net.
This effective model is exceedingly
smart in the striped taffeta, which Is one
of the smartest spring fabrics for gowns.
The pink and white stripes suggest the
quaint modes of bygone days now made
Understandable by the master designers
Of Paris. A distinctly French touch is
displayed in the trimming bands of black
taffeta featured on the waist and skirt.
This design is most easily carried out
by the home dressmaker. The waist has
side tucks running over the shoulders
and continuing down the sides, back and
front to the belt line. being stitched full
length. The sleeves are set In armhOles
and are in three-quarter length, banded
three-quarters Of an inch above the edge
by a Observation-Disclosures fold of the
black taffeta cut on the bias. The neck
line, with its narrowing rabat-like OPEN
ing in front, is piped with a narrow fold
of the taffeta. Small taffeta-covered but
tons outline the front opening on either
side. The chemisette is OF fine cream net,
the cream color being in contrast with
the white Of the stripe in the taffeta, and
is built with a high collar. The waist
closes in the center back.
The skirt, measuring two and one
fourth yards at the bottom. Is designed
after three-gored model, having a panel
gore in front and side cores meeting the
one-piece back in side seams over the