Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, 1912-08-05

tightly in one place and loosely in an
| other.
The Rex upper trimming machine now
| trims off all the surplus parts of the shoe
| upper and the Goodyear insole tack null
| ing machine withdraws the tacks which
| held the insole to the last. The shoe is
now ready to receive the welt, which is
a narrow strip of prepared leather sew
| ed along the edge of the shoe beginning
| where the heel is placed and ending m
| the same spot on the opposite edge. This
welt is sewed from inside the lin of tha
lnsole, and the curved needle passed
| through the lip, shoe upper and welt
uniting all three securely and allowing the
| welt to protrude outward from the edge
| of the shoe.
DIFFICULT TASK IN sHoEMAKING.
| The needle in making this stitch does
not go inside of the shoe, but passes
through only portion of the insole, and
| as the tacks which are driven but part
way in, in lasting, are withdrawn. the
| shoe is left perfectly smooth inside This
part of the work was formerly one of the
most difficult and laborious tasks in shoe
| making.
| AS 1t was performed entirely by hand
the drawing of each stitch depending upon
the strength and mood of the workman.
IL IS OF course, obvious that stitches were
| ottentimes of different lengths and drawn
with different tensions 1t is surprising
how quickly and easily the work is done
on the Goodyear welt sewing machine
| Model G. This famous machine has been
| the leading factor in the great revolution
that has taken place in shoe manufacture
ing. Its work should be carefully noted;
all stitches are of equal length and meas
ured automatically, the strong linen
| thread is thoroughly waXed and drawn
| evenly and tightly, for the machine neVeri
| tires-it draws the thread as strongly in
! the evening as in the morning Every
| revolution of the shuttle forms a lock-
| stitch of great strength, which holds the
We'll ell upper and lnsole securely together.
| The Goodyear Universal Inseam Trim
! ming Machine now trims the surplus por-
! ton of the welt and upper smoothly down
! to the stitches, and the GOODYEAR Welt
| Beaten and Slasher forces the welt to
| stand out evenly from the edge of the
| shoe. The Goodyear Shank Welt Skiveri
! thins off the welt at the shank and a.
| specially prepared material is spread over
| the tnsOle to form a partial cushion for
| the feet
RUBBER CEMENT APPLIED.
The entire bottom of the shoe is now
coated with rubber cement from the Star
| Cementing Machine, and the heavier out
sole, made from the most carefully tanned
selected sole leather, the rough or flesh
| side of which has been coated with ce-
ment, is nodded into shape and pressed
| securely into position by the Goodyear
| Improved Twin Sole Laying Machine
! where it is allowed to remain sufficient
| time for the cement to set The next op-
Grafton is that of trimming the sole and
welt so that they prOtrude a uniform dis
| lance from the edge of the SHOE giving
| shape to the sole. simultaneously with
| the rounding operation the machine cuts
| a little channel or slit along the edge of
| the outside in much the same manner as
| the work was done on the insole
| This portion of the work was formerly
very difficult and a costly operation by
hand. but seems simplicity itself when
the operation is performed on this ma
chine. The rounding operation simply in
Guides that portion of the shoe to which
the welt has been sewed. leaving the
outside at the heel without tension
This portion is first nailed to the shoe
on the Loose Mailing Machine from which
small brass nails automatically driven
! and spaced, are clinched against the steel
| heel of the last
! The surplus portion of leather is then
trimmed off on the Heel Seat Rounding
| Machine. and the little channel cut nv
the knife of the Rough Rounding Ma
| chine Is turned up so as to leave the
| channel open for the little Goodyear Uni
| a
| Wheel turning very rapidly lays the lip
| smoothly back. The outsole is now sewed
TO the welt; This operation is performed
| on the Goodyear OUTSIDE Rapid IOckstitch
Machine. which is very similar in opera =
| uon to the Goodyear Welt Sewing Ma
! chine used in sewing the welt to the shoe
DURABLE LocksTITcH.
The stitch, however, is finer and ex-
| tends from the channel which was cut
for it to the upper side of the welt. where
| it shows after the shoe has been finished
| The lOckstitch formed by this machine is
a most durable one; using Thoroughly
VaXed thread, it holds the outsole securely
! IN place even after the connecting
stitches have been worn OFF 1t is one OF
the most important machines in the shoe
| making process. In connection with this
machine there is also a Bobbin Winder.
which winds the bobbin used in the ro-
tary shuttle of the machine
A coating of cement is now applied in
side the channel just before stitching.
and after it has been allowed to properly
set the lip is smoothly laid down by the
Goodyear Channel Laying Machine
The next operation is that of leveling.
which is performed on the Automatic Sole
Leyeling Machine one of the most inter
esting used in the shoemakng process.
IL IS a double machine, and by its use a.
vibrating roll passes over the sole of the
Si'e ullbti HedNy pressure, covering every
portion of the sole and shank, and after
completing its opera ton the shoe is au-
tomaticaly dropped from its position be-
meath the roll 1t removes every posi-
putty of unevenness in the bottom of the
shoe. The shoe now receives its heel
which, with the exception of the top lift,
has already been prepared. 1t is secured
IN place by the American Lightning Heel
ing Machine, by means of which all heel
nails are driven at one time and clinched
inside the shoe The heads of the nails
are left protruding above the heel so as
TO retain the top lift which is also pressed
INTO place on this machine AS ii is
! pressed down over the heads of the nails
I they do not show on the surface of the
top lift
SHOE sLUGGING MACHINE.
The next machine drives the small
piece of brass or other meta! which pro-
tect the top lift from wear and which
are called slugs. This is done by the Uni
versal smuggling machine. They are &C.
curately placed at any desired number
the machine automa ticaHy driving and
cutting them off as they are drawn from