New-York tribune., 1912-03-31
INNS Of THE DESERT
caravansarieS for Pilgrims to
Mecca.
uoSTLERIES WITHOUT HOSTS
chelters for Men and Camels
Who Feed and Bed
Themselves.

rs. sccommodation provided for and eN-
"a n, the Moslem traveller in the East
w. .l,,avs be a source OF wonderment TO
i,. IT, rrsnkish mind. No palatial hotels in
w tho patronage of the devout pilgrim
VIZ N'.,a,iYc Meccaward. Imagine a massive,
- building. having four wings. the
'ns n rough bricks Cstill known by their
tent name, tub, built about the four
- q courtyard. Crowned with cupolas
"a rogsessing colonnadcs, and countless
',s.,bers within, the exterior is not without
do architectural beauty. The arches
.h. ,,.Ionudde are surrounded by mosaic
,,.orst,ous. though of a somewhat crude
- and .sr.sh paintings and rough sculpt-
sso,r the upper parts Of the interVen-
,ol,,rrs and are displayed above the
n.,ousv Quotations from ths Koran and
- le,tc~cd devices also appear upon va
.,ous rarts of the walls.
~. che adjacent grove of sycamores and
..sc,ss n numerous and picturesque COM
- NJ guests" sits making repast
r,on the gif,s Of the Nile NaIey-mlK'
~, dates and other fruit. The t~ittering
-. h,~5s IN the branches sounds clearly IN
-, desert stiffness; occasionally there
t~ssIs in upon that sweeter music the
,-h following Of an intractahle camel.
:, large forecourt from fifty to sixty
- rese strange creatures are being pre-
,o-,f for the Journey. Chopped straw be-
g., laid down for thdm, they amble up ana
..,,,.H around the food in regular circle
CO, -fa more favored, have noscbags
.r.4 with beans attached 10 their heads
Ir.,irc eaten their FIJI, they hasten TO the
,,rr trough which extends along one wall
., the nv.ilinc and drink with loud suck
a., Noise. Then commences surprising
5,sturhan-e. for each beast Is driven III
t.,weer two bales, ready packed ana lying
,,on the ground. With repeated believing
- sr~sekirr the camel lies down reluc-
..r,,v and Is loaded by its sklful fellah'
~ ps6ou.n driver, who placidly ignores
,t. angry cries of the creature as II CON
GENTLY Looks round To see what is being
DOM, FINALLY all the camels are loaded
~.. ,...r,.. every member of the assem-
rsr. IS mounted. and with loud crying
# .R.-naIl-h alex Ghe Moslem Aramc
,-t.,,,.,, for "G,e up,D the company sets
~, mon IFS desert journey. Such is the
Csrsys~,sry Of Bir Amber at the hour OF
r'........ 80 q caravan for the shore Of
the Red Sea.
A HOSTLERY WITHOUT A HOST.
Trf. desert hosiery. in common with all
ra.r.rr kIans. or wekdlehs. mas no pro-
r,.eto~ and is not in any sense business
erterrrsa. II Was built hy Ihrdhim Pacha
for ta. benefit of pilgrims to Mecca VINO
Is. this route. II is unfinished water
only being provided In Well IN the court
ward The lodgings are numerous small
chambers ON the second and top story,
rg.+ over the colounade, and the ground
floor is entirely devoted TO storerooms
which surround the courtyard. In winter
ines. upps~ rooms are sometimes used as
sr..gfrg apartments, but during the sum
,r.. months travellers avoid the neglected
srG partly runous chambers on account
a. lizards. serpents and insect pests that
,.e, rp their abodes therein. Hence the
general custom Of encamping in the ada
cent sycamore grove.
According 70 Arabic notions, the furhl-
,.r. sufficient fJr nights lodging may be
,....nrcnty carried 10y the traveller
namely. "a carpet. cushion ana Tug
I'll. apartments I'm tie Caravanseral nave
p. windows and only one door which opens
q. gallery running entirely around 'he
binding much the same as We may see
IN o.. European inns In some or the
vst.Iars situated near 10 towns (they are
c..c~sLy erected just outside the walls
,r-f of concierge sits before the main en-
trance. vhcrefrom all approaches may be
viewed. and serves oIt coffee 10 guests or
to any one who rhay care 10 partake. Inc
visitor. uf course, must cater for his own
ta.. and when the khan is near TO town
Or Villas. Lo may either procure his meals
nom J.o very dirty cook in the market
j.a.. ur if uat chefs cuisinerie be not to
bis GHn2. may prepare a meal for himself
q fr,p.e G must be improyised with stones
or odd bricks in some sheltered corner OF
the courtyard or in the upper gallery, NO
o.. viii Object 90 the consequent smoke.
lor muy 90. the guests VIII he sImiIarI!