The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1912-04-07

dropped TO its natural Level: that
SKIRTS became lees clingins. giving more
OF suss estion OF petticoats beneath.
that long sleeves gained favor; that
hecks became square bci.ind and De
Tore, and that lounces y Ached ;hu
height OF their glory. Sometimes there
Were dozen on one skirt. Mrs Mon
70" was always q. fashion plate aud
her state gowns, usually OF The richest
'clveih. displayed her neck ana arms.
II is said that she once r"Iu. q one
OF her own relatives cntraa, IS, ui4e
OF her ievccs becaus" she omitted tile
small clothes and silk hose ADHERED
TO by the regime OF james Monroe. the
last OF the cooked hats"
'r"tc.auc LcS-o'-Mntton Sleeves.
With the advent OK the ouiuc.
Adamses came tie reign OF tic
STotcsquc leg mutton sleeve. Snort,
fali skirt and gigantic poke bonnet.
which lasted through Jackson'A al
m!nisttution as well one OF these
Stoves ot,cn required as much ma
tcr'al a. an entire Skirt, and cambr.c.
"cNiciidcrs' stuffed Win down wcrc
worn upon the shoulders. Min tl:c
result that ladies % fashion haa 10
edge s!dew!sc through doors
There was orc freak fashion aiSi!nr-
tive OF the jackson period. These
wer" INC campaign frocks OF jackson.
ealieo' worn 10y Woman ,art!Aans at
tho time % h.s election. Great me
dailicns hearing his features werc
printed into this calico. which was
nl"Ge Gp Into aprons as well as dresses.
Reign or Slopins Shoulders.
During these years Dolly Madison,
sttll resident Ia Washington had con
tinued TO dictate the styles adopted
hE h,r In. INN a-,a 4.
now new queen Of fashion came 10
rule over onlcialdom, and this was
none other than fair DolIy's Uyvu
cousin, the beautiful Angelica Van
4uren daughter Of the w!teiess presi-
den; Van Buren's eldest son, A.
Little Vans" New Year leyec in the
White iIousc. when a bride Of few
weeks, she made her debut as inistl csa
OF that mansion. In the accompanying
copy % her portrait painted, At this
time by lnlnan she is shown a; tho
height OF her glory, and depicts The
rcignins hclle OF the period. Hes
f,luincd henLdress and gold hcadbumd
with It's pendant Jewel, hcv three
stranded necklace Of pearls with its
pendant matching that upon her brow,
her iow-nccked bodice. dropping OF
her beautiful shoulders with its
bertha and puffed elbow sleeves: her
tightly laced waist and full skirt.
worn when she sat for this portrait,
now adorning the White House. must
have been the envy of sill bellies Who
'aeheld this vision of LONELINESS.
Hers was the period WHOM long
threats and slop'ns shoulders reiened.
when fashionable women laced them
selves until they were stack In tins
face; when the feminine figure grew
long-waisted and triIr -waistcd In
close fitting. tightly boned bodiccs.
The beautiful Angelica visited her
Uncle Stevenson while he was minister
to London. and during her second year
az mistress o. The Write House she
brought h.s. .ac rewes; Ec:cp2cn
Tsshions.
CrinoIinc. i'ELtaietS and iiioopicra
The Iauseum's dressed ASurea depict
ins the styles; from the nrst HARRISON
20 the Fillmore periods, inclusive. will
depict the advance OF crinoline. Women
now looked like bells. From their
poke honnets their outlines gradually
expanded as their pellerino sha Wis
met their huge cone-iikc skirts II
was a period when children wore hid
cous pantaletes. and which was
brought to a climax By the grotesque
semi ma sculine attire adopted By dis
ciples OF Mrs. Boomer
But the dresses shown In the col
icctions representing the period be-
ginning with the administration of
Franklin Pierce Will display even
create. monstrositiss than We're ever
attained by aid OF crinolirc. Now :,
new queen of fashion came TO rule
over France and to dictate the styles
OF the enlightened world. Ills WAS
the Empress Eugene. who Is still In
tho land OF the living.
second Empire of Hoop skirts.
With her came the second empire OF
the hoop skirt, which she introd uced,
a:ld which England and America were
prompt in adopting First OF whsle
bone. then of graduated steel circles,
hcr hoop skirts became go wide that
the doors of her palace blocked her
exit. until she changed to more con-
scrvative garments. Our fashiona bic
srandmothcrs' hoops OF the early
mites. as dictated by Eugene. wero
widest al the hips, whence dresses
fell perpendirularly.
Our mothers dresses. representing
The Buchanan period. In this series,
will display hoops still expa nd!ng.
oficinldom's queen of fashion on this
Side of the water was then tic fair
Harriet Lane, niece of President Buch-
anan. who had previously experienced
social life at the court OF Victorin
while her uncle vas minister to Lon
don. The diary of "A Scnn tors. wife
, relates that during Buchannn's admin
istration 'Iow necks" aha lace. bcrthas
made fashionable because OF their
adoption by Miss Lane. were worn
, almost universally. Some OF the NOS.
! eNGr;:iitc costumes h..u';cd down from