New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-04-25
HER SPR|NCT|ME DINNER
Anne Gives an Object Lesson in
Simple Hospitality.
BY Martha McCuIIoch Williams.

Anne gave 1t to me--Anne, who, like my
own self. takes Joy in being woman as
being thereby also one Of the privileged.
She loves to sew. to cook-especially when
her husband is at home. A man Of noble
appetite, business takes him away whites.
This was one Of the whlles-wherefore Mis-
tress Anne elected should bear her COM
pany and eat OF her cakes. satisfying
meal, also delectable. Just a week before
1t / had sat at a swell breakfast given
in New York's most famous hotel. Things
were good in themselves-but they didn't
balance. There was too much of the solid,
not enough relieving froth. Anne made no
such mistake: hence her dinner put the
breakfast quite out Of court We cooked 1t
together, served, ate and washed up after
ward In q matter OF less than two hours.
IL there were two diners better content In
all New York town I would give sixpence
to see them-even a shilling TO know what
they had to eat.
We had lamb chops, bnked TO turn;
sweet potatoes, boiled, peeled and buttered;
new asparagus, lettuce with 4 wonderful
Philadelphia mayonnaise dressing, and after
il "A crumb pudding-which is not TO be
named IN the class of the bread pudding,
common or garden variety. And the cost,
though everything was OF tho best, was
lower than a meal for one at any really
good eating place.
First the potatoes. we'll washed, their
Jackets duly nicked, were put on in plenty
Of water and set boiling. Then the chops,
very lightly sailed after wiping clean, were
laid upon the gridiron and the broiler pan
set in the oven. After they had got hot
through and began sizzling, they were
turned over. Five minutes later we turned
of one Jet beneath the oven. The lowered
heat cooked them beautifully. done
through, lightly brown outside, but tender
and full OF juice. And there was no smudge.
nor burnt smell TO faint the apartment;
also next TO no watching to see that they
did not overlook Had We been making
biscuit they could have been baked In the
oven with the same heat So could pota-
toes. a pie or a pudding.
The asparagus-big, fat, pinkygreen
stalks-was trimmed ct the cut ends,
scraped well over it's lower third, washed
very clean and laid straight in broad, fiat
pan, which would not break a single Tip,
neither in boiling let the stalks get awry.
In half an hour It was tender but whole
throughout. Then II went upon very hot
platter, after all the boiling water. which
had been very lightly sailed, had been
drained away. AS sauce for It we took a
heaping tablespoonful OF butter. added salt
black and red pepper. tablespoonful Of
strong vinegar and tablespoonful Of the
water from the asparagus The mixture
was set where it would melt without cook
claret vinegar gave sort of fruity tang
indescribably delicious. After the dressing
was on the asparagus portions, we sprin-
kied them lightly with grated Parmesan
cheese. thereby giving the finishing touch
Lettuce Is lettuce, but only Anne and her
forbears, 7 am convinced. make such may
onnaise. II was ready to hand-I did not
watch the making OF II. BY accounts the
secret Of Il lies in boiling the foundation
egg yolk very hard, MASKING IL with lit
tie oil and great plenty OF seasoning. then
blending thoroughly a raw yolk and adding
little by little. alternately, moro oil and
vinegar. tasting between additions to make
sure Il was right Finally, there was stirred
through It some heart celery cut very fine
II It was TO be kept long think this flavor
had better be given by celery vinegar. In
It's last estate OF perfection the mayonnaise
was like thick cream, with nothing what
ever OF the pasty glazy consistency that
makes me loathe 1t as commonly made.
The pudding. also matter OF fore
thought had been made thus: A cup OF
dry grated breadcrumbs had been added to
a pint OF scaded milk, well stirred, allowed
70 cool, then mixed with two yolks of egg
beaten light, with half n cup Of sugar and
a generous tablespoonful OF butter. This
was baked. done but not brown. then COW
cred with a meringue made from the egg
whites and the other half cup OF sugar
II was barely set in cooling oven. For
eavoring there was vanilla; for sauce rich
creau slightly swcetened. When I make
crumb pudding there Will be rich wine or
butter sauce for IT, But It is good enough
without any sauce-one OF the most spring
rke delicate and digestible desserts I
have eaten in ages.
Coffee absolutely perfect gave the crown
ING touch. II was not made my way
never nut in things 10 settle the bever-
ovo letting 1t clear itself by standing
mir Anne IS another sort She beat up
her fresh ground coffee-a tablespoonful
for each of us-with whole egg, dropped