Bisbee daily review., 1912-10-20

 is approaching and with 1t the season Of indoor social functions This na- turally brings the subject of evening gowns into the immediate foreground of interest for all faahion-following women. The displays of evening gowns in the shops and studios of fashionable dressmakers are unusual ly interesting and attractive this fall The materials shown are bewildering in their beauty and richness and elab- crate two piece and three piece cos tunes are given particular prominence in the displays Not in many years has this type of model taken on such novelty, variety and elegance as it embodies this fall. Many of the new materials are peculiarly adapted to- it's uses and the fad for combination effects in materials has admirable op- portunities in connection with this class of costumes.
 All the famous makers seem to have realized these facts and from every house come models that are in some instances more novel than beautiful, but rarely fail to be interesting.
 Velvet and plush and matelssse fig ure conspicuously as coat materials in these models and indeed are ire ouently used for entire costumes, though the smartest achievements are in combinations Baby lamb cloth is much used with a lighter material for companion and the soft, thick mater ials such as peau de chamois, yelours de lsine, etc, are combined in many ways
 Notwithstanding the craze of thess rough and fleecy weaves in wool there is a great deal of IbToadcloth, and the latter will undoubtedly be of decided prominence during the coming winter because drapery is inevitable and there is no doubt that the thick fleecy weayes Of wool, no matter how scft and beautiful, are too bulky 10 lend themselves gracefully to drapery. Just at this moment tEey occupy the center of the stage because they are radical novelties, but later we shall see the hroadcloths asserting themselves for dressy wear and less aggressivcly thick wool materials being adopted very largely even for the street suit
 The combination of velvet coat and satin or cloth skirt is prime favor. ite and is repeated over and over
 
 view: but one cannot grow weary of the theme because there are so mang variations in the yelvets themselves and in the shapes and details of the costumes. Anything that is attrac- tive and becoming seems permissible, though as general thing the coats Of the imported costumes are considerab- ly longer than they have been in the last two seasons.
 Sometimes they are short or sharply Cutaway in the front, but the bacE is likely 10 run down to half length, at least, and in many cases it falls much lower on the skirt. Where cut away lines Of a radical sort are un- becoming it is easy to find a substi- ute for them. The coat which falls straight in front is seen on many or the smartest models and the coat but tOning down past the hip curve be- fore the fronts curve away is we'll lined. Then there is the coat whicn buttons high with one or two fasten ings, is open across a high waist line n front and falls at each side of the front in straight or slightly curved lines. This is a becoming model for many women who cannot wear the 'adical cutaway and several of the noted French tailors have done well with models of this sort
 The collar of the dTessy coat cos tune is immensely important this fall md assumes many odd and unusual Orms. The high, turndown or stand ng collar and the rolling collar more Jr less low in front are the versions Il most generally accepted
 Coats and skirts contrasting not on- in material but in color also are noGish; but this theme requires ex- I ceedingly clever handling, and too many of the experiments along this inc have ended in the conspicuous nd not particularly beautiful. How 'ver, the idea has good possibilitie9 I md some makers have realized them Fancy velvet coats with plain tone l 10th or silk skirts are in many cases cry attractive, and the materials O. II he season offer 8 wide range for such \ sffects. The cut velvets, finely strip. \ d velvets on chiffon or soft silk foun lations, embossed velvets, corded vel 4 cts, etc, are all available and are ! provided in such exquisite colorines | md qualities that this is sure to be a f great velvet season.
 Black stocks, so generally worn a few years ago. have certainly come in- to their own again. There is no fixed style for them. They are produced in great variety by the makers of chic neckwear, while many of them are doubtless the inspiration of the indivi- i dual wearer or probably the work of
 her own hands. A predominsting style
 is a straight collar or one made O. folds of the material. with tabs, cross ed loops. a four-in-hand tie or merely ! trimmings of black buttons
 Whether of satin, taffeta, moire or ] corded silk, these black stocks usual. ly have some white about them. Some
 are combined with the cream wbite satin, while perhaps the majority have