El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1912-09-27

with mohair threads, called in Paris
a permo weave, Is particularly well
liked because Of its lustrous. silky tex.
ture, and this permo fabric comes in all
the subdued, hard to describe cOlOrinSs
in which the French couturies delight.
A taupe shade and a deep mulberry
shade are perhaps the most distinctive.
Grays continue in the pronounced
favor accorded them this summer, and
many of the women who wore moth
ing but black and white combinations
last season are now taking up the
grays. 1t is a wise women whO-elect-
ing to dress in gray for season-se-
lects one particular shade of gray and
keeps to it.
ions for fall are the prevalence Of
pleats, and the full-length sleeve The
elbow sleeve has passed with the high
waistline-Which is now relegated to
are al the waist line normal; and some
of the coat effects even drop below this
point; and to make sure that nobody
shall mistake the fact that q normal
1vaistline is now the mode, fashion has
decreed that all waists shall be en-
phasized by gtrdle, belt or SASH OF
one sort or another This is again a
memory of the directOire dandy, whose
sash, if his costume was military, was
a very ornamental part thereof
Sleeves are not only long, but they
are snug They cover the forearm and
even the wrists in all coats, frOcks and
blouses intended for day wear. Elbow
sleeves in the form Of loose lace drap-
cries are noted on some of the new
evening frocAs, but the bare forearm
is not now considered de riguer dur
ing the morning or afternOOn--unless
with an informal at home costume.
Buttons and sleeves have rather side
tracked the scribe from the subject Of
plea IS-a most vitality significant issue
just now; for it is the pleaT that is
silhouette though the change will prob
ably be so gradual that nobody will re-
alize that skirt lines have completely
changed until the metamorphosis has
been wrought Everything is pleated-
in one way or another-and we are see
ing again the old, Old-faShiOned knife
pIeats, tackled together on the under
side with lengths OF tape so that they
may not spread apart. There are, among
the new Paris models for autumn. skirts
pleated ali around at the top. in mar
row knife-pleating, yet so trinity held
in place by rows of these combining
tapes that the measurement at knee
and foot does not exceed the prescribed
two yards or so. and the Silhouette IS
as slim and narrow as fashion still
demands Machine-pleated skirts are
at the pinnacle of the mode This ma
chine pleating-or accordion pIeaung,
as it is sometimes called-iS put into
even velvet and broadcloth fabrics,
though, of course. the best effects are
produced with satin, heavy SIX or the
soft, lustrous permo fabrics above re
ferred to. When the whole skirt, or
part of ii in panels or drapery, is not
pleated. there is apt TO be some trim
ming n the form of pleated quillings-
or narrow bands of knife leat ting
stitched about half an inch inside. either
edge.
Vatican pleats and panniers are be-
ing used with discretion by many OF
the courtiers, to give touch Of grace
and picturesqueness to fall models
The Vatican pleat is noted even on
tailored coats, and it appears con-
stantly on handsome wraps for even
ing Wear[ The pannier is a much
chastened and subdued modification of
the impertinent puffed-out affair
which heralded the arrival of this
fashion last spring, and many Of the
loODed and draped panniers on fall
frocks are exduisitely graceful Skirts
remain narrow at the foot, all the
width being introduced in pleatings
and long. clinging draperies which do
not interfere with the slim silhouette