New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-05-19
D.; w. E c+ Food Homec" When Travelling Amid Exotic Edbe
These National Dishes Range
from English Plum Pud.
ding to Bears Head
and Shark Fins.

entrance in our restaurants. readily found
its way to our home kitchens. no doubt
because the tomato and it's possibilities
have long been known to us.
From Austria We have imported the
Vienna "schnitzel.' usually not improving
It, be 1t confessed, in the cooking here. The
delicious ways of the Hungarian with to-
matoes and paprika deserve TO oe better
known among US than they are. even
though his rich cuisine Is designed more for
tina drinker of heavy wines than Of water
Goulash has unfortunately lost most OF It's
distinctive quality in the course Of its
transportation here.
Russia is still a terra incognita ~ the
kitchen to the world at large. out' at least
IL has taught us the supreme dehgnt OK
caviar. Another delicacy OF that countrys
"zakuska" deserves to be better known
among us than It is-the marnated musn'
room. daintiest Of hors d'oruvres.
Our culinary fads Of a day or year are
q curious feature Of New York life. We
have haunted Italian restaurants In search
OF risotto and frito misto AMI spaghetti Ia
Romano. The cry of the hot tamale' man
still fingers family I'm our ears. Chill
time. and there are Spanish restaurants
downtown where the curious can discover
for themselves that "caballao a la Bis
caya" does not differ much from our own
fish chowder. Many years ago there -FOUR
,shed for a while in this city dinnee club
NJ artists and literary men whose desire II
was IN sample all the cuisines OF the world
represented In this polyglot metropolis.
About the time Of the Spanish war We be-
.or IN haunt the lower East Side In search
of Hungarian restaurants, Win duhSdriah
ba nds and Hungarian wines ana cordlals'
And. of course, there was our PERIOD OF
dining In Chinese restaurants, with It's IN
c,dental rivalry in the management OF
chopsticks. 1t still might be gong on out
for the unexpected ways OF tong men Win
revolvers. Chop suey may now be eaten
With comparative safety uptown, hut II
lacks the reai atmosphere" and 1t was
a,mosphere rather than food that we were
after in our culinary excursions
"cULINARY HEiMWEH." .
II "a said that no man ever learns to add
I'm long column OF figures rapidly and
accurately In foreign language. How
J aver long his residence in another country.
however thorough his familiarity with It's
tongue however fragmentary his memory
=, his own. he will invariably swing back
int Z, ar some point of his calculation, be
II IN the twenties, the hundreds or the
| thousands.
Thu, IL Is also with a mans food. He
may learn TO appreciate ana IKE the ulShe'
of his adopted country. he in'ariaoy
reaches a moment when ne experiences
what might be called CULINARY heiin"en'
when he must have q taste OF his mothes
| countrys cookery.
Americans who have lived abroad, or
even merely travelled for season are
| familiar with that longing. 1t may CONS
upon them suddenly at any time AZ oreaA-
fast over their coffee and rolls at dinner
over their second coppery European oyster
T, &. certain TO lay its hand upon them on
national holidays. They must have tner
turkey and cranberries and celery ana not
m,nce pie on Thanksgiving Day, whether u
be IN Paris or in Yokohama.
This "Heimweh" is seen also in the enor.
NOUS annual import into this country OF
exotic delicacies from all parts OF us
world for the foreigners living among Us
Th.y range all the way from English PUN
budding, Belgian hares. German ooars
head and Hungarian geese to Chinese olrds
rests and shark fins and comfits, and "Ihr-
k,sb delight" To the German no Christ
mas would be complete without lis Leo
kuchen." ''Marzipan." "Pfeffernuesse anu
the innumerable other sweets Of the season
IN the "old country" while at all times hs
and the other nationalities amonG us may
vary their American diet when the moou
se,zes upon them in restaurants run TOT
then, and by them. The passing OF the ter
man into the general population oil THIS Guy
NAV he traced, by the way. In the eradua'
disappearance within the last fifteen years
Of the first class eating places that caterer
"a him. Helms, the German Delmonico
Of n quarter OF a century ago celebrated
for it's prices as we'll as for It's CUISINE 10
already forgotten.
II is even possible that the Hellenist may
discover in this city the black broth OF mo
spartans. The present writer has failed IN
the quest, not, he feels sure, because MS
Greek has grown rusty. but prooaoly OIL
account OF the lack OF classical educatoh
on the part OF the Hellenes who run inc
Greek restaurants of New York