New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-06-17
True Economy Is in Making
a Little of the Real Thing
Go a Long Way.
BY Martha McculIoch Williams.

Meat has gone up. Like other aristo-
Gratis It Will spend the summer In the
mountains Mountains Of cost. understand.
At least that is the word OF those in the
know" So It behooves US all 10 take &C
count NJ whereUithal we can lessen the
need Of II. As to substitutes, I don't
know one that Is true to name, unless 1t
costs more than real meat, even now.
| Nut loaves and steaks and roasts, for eX-
/ ample, stand one in a pretty penny. even
| II they are compounded mostly OF peanuts.
True. one can raise peanuts-if one has
seed. land, time, skill and energy. But not
/ in time 10 meet this present emergency.
| Indeed IL would be more hopeful TO under
| take raising broilers. which will mature in
,, ten weeks from Matching, whereas peanuts
| require long summer, and take all OF 1t.
Instead OF substitutes. try making the
most Of what meat you can afford. Bacon
and salt pork lend themselves best 70 this
making the most very little Of either
will season a huge dish Of peas, or lenuls,
or red beans or give a saving tang to
tureen Of vegetable soup. 1t does me good
70 recall now black-eyed pea-time in my
youth. The little black children were 80
happy then ! can shut my eyes and see
a ring ~ them, ranging from two 10 six
,..srs old gathered about a big pan OF
peas. examining them by handfuls INTO
their mouths then taking, addtionally
hi. ~ hot corn bread. Each child had
slice Of crisp bacon in addtion-some saved
n IN the last: but the most part deVoured
II FIRST. How they throve on II! Their
skins shone like ebony-especially from the
mouth I'D 10 the eyes, ana down 10 'he
chest HAMMER nor better nourlshed
voungsters never rolled on the grass or
nlaved tag with the hounds. Besides the
meas and bread. they had all the fresh put
termilk they would drink; sweet milk they
would not touch, because their elders Jeefed
q, drinkers Of H. asking: When Is you
gwineter git weaned?'
am thus explicitly reminiscent TO prove
nv later case. The peas tresh EatheIeu'
we're sbelled. we'll washed. and boiled with
a light seasoning of salt until they wouiu
mash easily. Then they were SKINNED ont
in big ladlcfuls and put in broad nat IRON
ovens. In which pork or bacon proper
tlonate 10 the pea quantity had beeh trI'u
10 a crisp, then removed. When the oven
was three parts full the boiled peas we're
stirred back and forth and all arouIc
through the bubblng fat. After minute
or so Of cooking the MASKING began WIN
the back ~ the ladle; they were crushed
into havorous mass, which was cooked
for ten minutes longer, stirred back ana
forth all the while.
This was the ordinary dish. Finicky folk
who wanted more taste TO Their peas fried
,bin-sliced onions, sliced ripe tomatoes and
ebreds Of green pepper In the fat before
adding the peas. Others made Tire ioma-
toes and onions into a sort Of thick catsup.
highly seasoned. and with just the sus-
,,lcIon OF vinegar. which was poured hot
over the steaming peas after they were
IN the dish. still others contented them
selves with mixing stewed tomatoes with
their peas after they were in the plate.
THE peas we're nearly as good cold as hot.
hut. as black Nanny said: "Dcre want
nebber no chance ter fin out how col peas
did taste: all de eaters was 50 pea-hongry
6ev rebber lef' none oh account"
glack-eyed peas are. l am aware. among
the few things one cannot find in New
York markets. but there are beans and
meas a-plenty. white and red green and
dry broad beans, lima beans. ever so many
beans. which, cooked in the fashion o.
black-eyed peas. will prove satisfying, nour-
ishing and reasonably cheap. Half pound
~ fat pork or bacon will furnish grease
enough for a huge dish. Lay the crisped
meat on top. and give bit with each help
ing
Bean-and-potato cakes are much more
NIIine than the plain potato. Soak, boil ard
mash dry beans, or simply boil green ones
until very tender Do not salt the water.
1, .ougbens hulls Salt the pulp, and sea-
son with anything else you like-black and
red pepper, onion Juice. herbs. etc. Work
the seasoning we'll through, then mix the
mass with its own bulk of mashed potato
the richer the better. Add beaten egg-an