Evening star., 1912-11-24

petticoat is made Of handkerchief linen
alternating with strips of lace, and the
founce is set on under a band of eyelet
embroidered beading through which is
drawn pale pink satin ribbon. Some OF
these neglige petticoats are Of crepe de
chine, with f,ounces Of pleated lace. or
of pleated chiffon finished at the edge
with tiny quilting. Chiffon is very fash
ionable for dancing petticoats and some
times the pleated chiffon founces are at
tached under festoons Of tiny silk roses.
The most enchanting little room
sacques'' are sold in the places where
one looks for exclusive Paris belor gings-
These little jackets are OF chiffon. some
times over thin silk. but moro often quite
transparent, and the sacQue is usually
cut on kimono lines. which are more
graceful over shoulder and arm than the
set-in sleeve effect Quantities of lace
roses Of silk or chiffon add to the Pa
risian effect-for the room sacque is moth
ing IL not French-and almost invariably
there is becoming coiffure cap to match
the sacque. These little sacques are not
supposed to be washable: they are far
too delicate and fiimsy for that. but they
may be sent to the cleaners occasionally
In contrast to the chiffon room sacque
Is the more practical conbing sacque
made of handkerchief linen and embroid-
cry, a sleeveless tunic which may be
slipped over the shoulders while the hair
is being done. A November bride has re-
sacques as part Of her bridal shower
One is Of handkerchief linen scalloped
all around the edge and embroidered by
hand in a flower and leaf design, and
the other Is made OF all-Over embroidery
with an edge Of cluny lace.
Callot has used this straight room
sacque model for the basic idea of
most lovely neglige. built for an English
bride of very tall and willowy figure. A
tunic of white chiffon made OF two
lengths Of the filmy stuff tossed over the
shoulders and hanging straight to the
hips is gathered under in pannier fash
ion at this point, the sKirt below showing
a deep lace hounce falling over chiffon
petticoat on which are countless rows
Of little chiffon puffings, the whole being
kept very straight and narrow IN Sill
houette. The chiffon tunlc Is sihp.s
slashed at the sides for ar-nholes. these
armholes being about at the location OF
the waist line, so that the arms protrude
from the tunic only as far as the elDo"
when they are lowered. The pannler ar
rangement OF the tuntc allows 1or the
lifting Of the arms and so also does the
softness Of the chiffon garment Down
the front of the tunic Is frill OF the
chiffon with little pink SILK roses tucKeo
among the soft folds.
,AlI sartorial prophecies point to the
re-establishment of the founce In hfgn |
favor and this favor Tor nounces Is e.r
denced in one of the tea gowns PIC
tured-an authoritative modei by loi,
man, who makes neglige wear for all
of Europe. This tea gown Is OF sheii
mink crepe de chine trimmed with Frencn
val lace and c1uny' entire ,deux. bahus
of the lace between entire deux 0! ciuns
mass over the shoulders between the lace
of the bodice, and the little bodice Is
divided from the trailing skirt by
similar band of lace and ciuny enIIe
deux The feature of the; gown, IS the
double flounce Of lace on the skirt, the
upper flounce just touching the moor
and the one beneath trailing somewhat.
A draped sash Of lace and riDpon nous
the gathered skirt in slender lines. Inc
Is with dancing and dinner gowns, is
never worn with a tea gown. which de-
mands the informality Of slipper.
pink satin slippers with buckles mace
Of rhinestones accompany 'hls tea
gown.
The second tea gown. of .bordered chif-
fon is in shades of yellow-a very FASH
ionable color for the tea gown just at
the moment. The pale yellow chlHon mas
a border in shades Of orange and light
brown. the draped tunic being mounted
over pale yellow messaline. This tea
gown has lace collar which crosses
the bust in fichu fashion and is caught
at the belt with pale rfnauve pansies, the
belt being Of mauve velvet ribbon.
The embroidery gown is not a tea
gown. but a neglige, suitable only Tor
boudoir or bedroom wear. Fine Wnite
or ecru embroidery is much used TOT
dressing gowns of this sort now, for the
dainty woman fancies a neglige that
can be done up freshly by her expensive
French laundress. Sometimes these en-
hroidery gowns are mounted over slips
IF thin silk, but in steam-heated rooms
the unlined gown lies comfortable all
winter long.
rather interesting neglige for a bride
| to-be who has utilized her great-grand-
| mammals costly cashmere shawl Tor
gown that will have individuality. Ine
garment hangs quite straight from the
shoulders, the rich border being allowed
! t to run straight across the top. so that 1t
. falls over the arm in sleeve effect. The two
| side edges Of the shawl Were doubled in
| ward to form the center fronts, the bOr-
der running down each front and out
over the shoulder and arm. Black satin
embroidered with gold threads Is inserted
| in q narrow strip between the front and
1 back borders that meet at the shoulder
! line. and the kimono sleeves are length
/ ened with bands Of the gold-embroidered
| satin. a strip of black fox fur finishing
| the edge luxuriously. The shawl would
/ have been too long at the lower edge