The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1912-04-07

new French fashions which changed
the styles in America at the close OF
the Revolution. 1t was her little son
who introduced in New York the nrst
long trousers for boys.
Politics unj Neither Garments,
Speaking OF trousers, an interesting
period group in the coliection-onc
directly following the Washington
pcriod--would illustrate the distinctive
dress of the Federalist and republican
AT the opening OF the ninctccntn cen
fury The republicans, borrowing the
Sarb OF the French Rcvoiutiuniats
uoned their Wigs Wore tight pantu-
looms TO the calves of their legs ana
laced their shoes with leather strings.
while the Fcderalists adhered 70 the
Wigs and queues, knee brooches ana
buckied shoes OF the past century. So
II was an easy matter In those days
TO distinguish radical from u con
eervative.
The groups representing the frs,
seventeen years of the past century
VIII mark what might best be termed
the Dolly Madison period of American
Womans dress. for that charming wo.
man ruled as !irSt lady of the land
through the administrations OF the
widowed jefferson as we'll az through
those of her own Jenny"
with her came the delightful en-
pire gown. made famous in Paris by
the lovely Eecamier and the women
OF NaPoieon's court. The waist line
vas now entirely obscured, and the
bodice shortened III some CO scs, TO an
iach. TAo aoH"np: nying reproduction
81 l'".!y NNiiso.s portrait represents
neg ~ arci a toilet when SILT, was at
'he heishi ~ her grace and glory.
Worn With single Undergnrmcnt.
he gowns hi sr,J
eorfobo!Atc man: old letters and
diaries Which too how the women
OF the period sh!vered in these short
WASTED, clrgu. walking dresses Of
chmhri" and l.dia twill. beneath which
were 10 Enthusiastically tight STAYS
ana tisht Underwear OF lenlb's wool
or linen ACROSS their shoulders were
Hang "cottaEs c.oaks" of silk. which
neither offered nor suggested warmth.
iaFtN gowns we're even more d.a pEou
ous OF tn fHil Elizabeth Patterson,
VINO. during tl!s time. married Jc-
fVmc buhtla-' i was written: ".tll
the cl"ihc ora i. the bride Nigh,
nav neon lLt ~ my pocket.
Lcncath her dress she wore Jut :,
single garment This wedding gown
as depicted IL miniature by Augustin
was III iaej - abbreviated above the
waist line H that which Eecamic,
wears III i celebrated portrait, Il at
which SNOW hsr reclining Oh II cul;ch
some OF Vt, great Grandmothcrs
IO"is Of th period ali slashed VI
the side. 80 the Sheath" sts.le bccaus,
the skirts ve.. too Tight for con
Ncnient ,ocomotion. -
H"cks we're 80; lower in ,noac day
iH"i IN any oucr period Of our his
tofy and nsodosi> would forbid, cvci
III these wicked times, suc!l displays
of feminine charms as were made If
american drawing rooms during the
lirst decade % the last century. II
was period Of rouge and pearl poN
der, although !, Is recorded that DOLLY
Madison herself needed not these aid:
to her complexion. whose color wa:
seen TO come and CO." One of hel
state gowns had long train Of buff
'ei''t and With. this she wore tur'
han oil the same hue ornamcnted Will
bird Of paradise. y letter writer
/ describes neg thus, at ono OF he
! ievees
I Her Maiss,>'s appearance Wa:
| truly resal. dressed IN robe OF pinl
! satin trimmed claborately with er
NINE White yclvct and satin turban
VIZ n"hdins Pstrich plumes and