davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

new patterns. Embroidery trimmed petticoats are used even with dancing frocks, though the embroidery fiounce is of the finest possible character and is mounted directly on the petticoat without any under-rufie, ribbon threaded beading separating petticoat and flounce. Dancing petticoats have very deep flounces of exquisitely sheer embroidery, set on tops of nainsook or batiste and usually a frill of narrow lace is put under tho edge of the around the ankles. These deep flounces are set on without any fullness, or there is a slight fullness added in the wgy of pin tucks. A petticoat of this sort Is pictured
 Flounce and batists top are joined [ with seam beading and ribbon is run below this - through buttonholed slashes worked by hand in the deep floutce. A frill of val lace edges the lower edge of the founce. Such petit coats fall to the ankle and show when the clinging dancing gown of satin is lifted; but the day petticoat, worn under the tailored skirt, falls
 
 toned walking boot and is not sup posed to show at all. It has top of cambrio or fine muslin, beautifully fitted over the hips and rather mar row embroidery founce finishes 1t at the lower edge which Is never more than yard and three-quarters wide. These short petticoats do not collect the dust and mud of the pavement as longer ones used to do and because they are more practical and much more dainty than the silk petticoat which never visits the washtub, they are being taken up again for street wear.
 Under the petticoat is the culotte drawer which is made of soft nain- sock and fits as perfectly as riding brooches; that is. there are no gathers over the hip and the lower edge is drawn in to the knee either by groups of pin tucks, or by a rubber run through beading. Ruffies do not ap-l pear on the new culotte drawer and if any trimming is used 1t is an un-l gathered edge of scallop and dot em- broidery or narrow bit of lace. Some women have taken up with en-l thusiasm the new chemise- pantalonl which Is made of tub material and, which includes pretty chemise and a short drawer, cut all in one gar-l ment and intended for wear beneath, the corset. Others prefer to wear thel drawer separately over the corset, and underneath goes a combination of glove silk or of fine silk and wool Not one woman in ten--except those living out in country districts wheret the cold is intense-now wears a | woolen union suit to the ankles. The brassiere becomes more and more popular and indeed so indis- pensable has this little garment now become to the dainty woman's toilette. that the long-favored corsetcover and skirt combination bids fair to be oust- ed from favor. The new brassieres are so pretty that there Is no need of donning a corsetcover over one of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10
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them, and the smart tub petticoat with It's embroidery flounce reaching to the boot-top finishes out the re- quirement. A practical new bras- siere is pictured. The trimming is dainty. yet not too dainty for every day wear and the brassiere closes in- visibly under fold or pleat. The garment is not boned but owes It's good lines to It's perfect fit and It's neat finish, all seams being joined with seam-beading.
 Nightgowns are returning to the yoke idea and many of the new models for fall trousseaux have shaped yokes which sometimes extend out to form the sleeves. Nobody dreams of wearing prim, long sleeves in robe du mutt nowadays and some of the little sleeves are very embryonic af- fairs of lace or fine embroidery flounc- Ing. held together on the outer side of the arm with ribbon. The lovely negligee pictured Is a combination of embroidery and val lace. The lace panels cross tunic and fiounce of embroidery--a new sort of embroidery with pale pink flowers on white ground, and around the hips, and just below the bust are set broad inser- ttons of pink batlste with eyelets em- broidered in white. This negligee is mounted over palest pink silk and the sash ends are of pink satin ribbon. A net cap trimmed with fine em- broidery and pink ribbon matches the negligee md the buttoned walking boot of patent leather has been changed for pink boudoir slippers.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

monie may not claim Parisian origin unless its skirt is caught up some where in ever so slight a draped effect.
 A black broadcloth tailleur of this ceremonious character was noted the other day at an exhibition of paint tngs at fashionable club. The coat was pronounced cutaway model with very long tails at the back and a slop- ing front opening over an adora ble vest of pale lilac satin brocade. A huge cluster of English violets, caught at the coat-front near the pale lilac vest made striking color note. The skirt of this costume was very straight and slender In line and exactly at the knee at back and front were two parallel lines of shirring which gath cred up the material for a space of six inches. The draped effect result ing was very slight but 1t just saved the skirt from absolute plainness and gave 1t most modish lines. Six but tons were set on the lines of shirring i-twenty-four buttons in all.
 Charmeuse and Crepe Favored for
 Draped Effects
 AS was to be expected, crepe de chine leapt to instant favor with the coming in of draped effects. No fabric is more beautiful than this long fa- miliar crepe de chine. Now that it i may be obtained in double width, 1t is very easy to manage and is not be- yond the reach of the average pocket book. It is becoming to the stout as well as the slender figure and is ex- ceedingly easy to manipulate, even by the amateur dressmaker. A charming afternoon frock of olive brown crepe de chine is Illustrated. This frock shows very simple dra- pery at the back of the skirt, the side gores having been cut in rather wide circular form and then drawn in, fold upon fold as the photograph shows. the drapery being held at. the center back by row of triple shirring over cords. The bodice is also very simple and opens in surplice effect over a white satin yoke trimmed at back and front with green glass buttons. Cream lace frills edge the sleeves. The cluster of brown. gold and pale yellow velvet pansies, held in the hands, is intended for final location at the left front of the girdle and with tliS udluly SuWH VIII Do WoIH put toned boots of patent leather with tops of kid.
 The chiffon afternoon gown Is a particularly smart model by Paquin and shows very slight drapery at the back of the knees while the paneled front gives long lines and height. This gown is made of the new Besnard--or brick red-chiffon com bined with cream white satin, the panel being of the satin. This panel is really part of an entire cream satin gown which drags about the feet. It is rounded out deeply at the top to show guimpe of cream batiste embroidery and lace on which are two folds of tangerine net, the top of the guimpe being finished with
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

drapery of lovely bordered chiffon or of stately brocaded velvet which will fall away in folds from the best half of the satin foundation. Or. if the inventory of last years left-overs discovers only a usable skirt, the bodice being gone past redemption. a new bodice of lace may be constructed and skirt and face bodice be married into united felicity by a long scarf like winding drapery of fringe-edged chiffon.
 Still another way to build over the last years gown will be to veil il with a fur bordered chiffon tunio which will drop above a fiounce of lace; tunio and lace fiounce complete ly hiding the skirt of the passe gown. The bodice of lace draped over with chiffon like the tunic will complete a deliciously pretty new dancing gown the only expense for which will have been the new chiffon tunic, lace fiounce and a little allover lace to make the bodice.
 Longer Skirts With New Draped
 Gowns.
 The short skirt is an impossibility with the draped costume-anless all canons of grace are to be ignored All the new draped gowns cover the feet and most of them drag on the floor, not only at the back but all the way around. so that the skirt has to be picked up when walking. This means, of course, very pretty foot wear. for nothing is uglier, under the soft clinging draperies, than clumsy walking boot. With all these draped costumes for afternoon wear are worn the daintiest boots having thin turned soles and, usually, very high heels and draped gowns in the evening are accompanied by satin slippers. or by high h-heeled buttoned boots of satin or kid. Afternoon boots are of satin of bronze leather, of soft kid or ot patent leather with dull kid tops and the buttons contribute to the pretti- ness of the boot, being of pearl, faceted crystal or of amber.
 Even worsted materials are draped now and the new tailleur du cere-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10
BABY's COLD WEATHER DOLLY.

ot4SI' D COtlD WEhIhGIb DOl1L1. HNHE adorable doll which accom-
 panies baby out for her daily
 airing may have an icy disposi- tion for all her loveableness-as you will ascertain if you lay her china or bisque check against your own some January morning, and long after baby has been brought indoors and cuddled to sleep in her warm little bed, the beloved doll, hugged to her breast, will retain its ley coldness. One mother hit upon the notion of re- moving dolly's sawdust insides and substituting a little hot water bottle, the bottle being filled each morning before the morning airing. and each evening when babys-and dolly's-- bedtime came. Now these warm heart ed dollies are to be obtained, dressed in most tasteful and fashionable style. at the women's exchanges and the baby possessed of such treasure runs no danger of catching croup or cold from her boon companion.
 PROTECTING WHITE CLOVES. NVERY woman knows how quickly f pair of white gloves will be-
 - come soiled when the hands are thrust constantly into a muff. An all days wear without the huff will not
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10
Clinging. Wrapped Effects in Ne,O Evening GolDns Street Frocks Of Serge and Cloth Skillfllly Draped- Ne,o Draperies Offer
 Suggestions To the Home Dressmaker

worn in the hair with this gown, and the earrings are gold with topaz drops. Buttoned boots of black kid complete the correct afternoon cos tune.
 Brick Red and Sulphur Immensely
 Fashionable.
 Flame and sulphur, called sugges- lively "colors de pInferno" are the hues par excellence of the new sea- son in Paris. A close second to these warm tones are Besnard. a new brick red much favored by Callot Soeurs. geranium and tomato. But that there Is a decided feeling for fiame-sug- gesting hues, is evidenced by the pre- ference for sulphur, amber and a red dish orange called Capucine. Some-~ times flame and sulphur are used to- gether, or Besnard and amber, a gown of this type being pictured on the. seated figure. This gown is a Worth model and its conservativism of line is rather belied by the almost crude. coloring. The amber colored satin gown is yelled with Besnard chiffon, sewn with an embroidery of small dull gilt beads. Over this beaded tunio are panels of satin in the brick red color. each panel being weighted with gilt bead fringe. The decolletage is filled in with very pale pink tulle and the coiffure orna- ment-a very important feature of, the modern evening toilette-is of pink tulle drawn under a bandeau of amber beads, chou of the tulle from which rises a paradise aigrette being placed at one side of the bandeau. This gorgeous costume is completed by boots of amber colored satin with faceted amber buttons.
 Drapertes Caught with Brooches.
 Still another evening gown shows a simple and very graceful chiffon drapery over lace, the drapery being caught at girdle and knee with large, old fashioned cameo brooches. The colors in the gown repeat the soft pink and white cameo tints. the tunic being of palest pink chiffon, draped over deeper pink satin yelled with white lace. The bodice of lace over pink satin is draped with pink and white chiffon and a delicate fringe of pink and crystal beads edges the bodice and the loose sleeves. This lovely pink and white costume was designed for a debutante of this sea- son who will wear the cameo gown at one of the early cotillons in Decem- Der.
 The new draped effects are veri- table boon to the woman who must economize, for notwithstanding the costliness of the new fabrics many a passe evening gown will be able to hold up its head through another sea- son, discreetly draped with yard or two of chiffon, lace or novelty material. This hopeful possibility of economy is augmented by the fashion for one sided bodice effects. Given a partly worn white satin evening gown, there is no reason in the world why half of 1.-the worst half should not be covered up with a winding
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

FIT IS almost twenty-five years since @ draperies ruled in fashions do- N main. In those days-back in -s'A the late eighties-every modish skirt had an overskirt. the overskirt being caught up in some manner of i drapery or other. and the skirt it. Self having pleated or plain lower portion set on a sham which was made of some cotton lining material or-if the wearer could afford it. of silk. In the early eighties the sham" was built out at the top over hustle: at the end of this decade reeds" or long flexible half-hoops run through castings, distended the sham" beneath the overskirt dra- perry. Those who can remember as far back as this period recall how the tapes that tied the ends of the reeds" were forever tearing away, the flattening out of the skirt at the back causing one much modification. Now draperies are back in high favor but instead of being built out over whalebone distended foundations, they are drawn as softly and Imply around the limbs as narrow skirt measurements and sillky-soft fabrics will admit. With the entrance of draperies have come new worsted and new silk and satin materials softer and slimpsier than ever these mate rials were woven before, and every thing. from chiffon to velvet brocade is obtainable in double width-which means that draped effects, are much simpliied for the dressmakers.
 Metallic Chiffons Touch the Luxury
 Climax.
 Of course these wide velvets, silks. brocaded crepes ard metallic chiffons are ruinously expensive. Some of the prices, by the yard, are fairly stag gering, but the draped gowns are so enchantingly lovely and so becoming into the bargain that one would not return to the era of straight limp Empire lines if one could. Damasse crepe de chine is a new silken stuff that Is gaining favor every day and another figured material that is soft and graceful in texture as we'll as splendid in coloring, is metallic chif
 fon-which is simply double width chiffon in new. wonderful colorings splashed over with great Oriental figures in dull silver or gold. One of the draped costumes illustrated to- day shows this splendid metallic chif- fon in combination with plain char mouse The costume is long sleeved hand high-necked model, intended for afternoon wear and is built of char mouse in new shade of tangerine yellow or rust color. The chiffon is in the same warm tone with a bold -pattern in dull gold and this metallic chiffon is draped most gracefully over the lower part of the skirt on one side of the costume, the drapery being carried upward in long lines at the other side and falling away in a k cascade effect at the hip. The metallic chiffoM also crosses the bodice in surplice drapery at back and front, the long. shirred sleeve being of the plain charmeuse. Amber pins are
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

csc doll, whose head, arms and legs protrude. To make this holder, pad the body of the doll into a ball shape, with masses of cotton wadding into two and one-quarter inch diameter, and then crochet over the mass, talk ing care not to catch the cotton wadding into the needle. Ribbons are then attached to the arms and joined some distance above the head to form hanger.
 Lingerie ribbon holders are made in various ways. One sort is much like the panel hairpin holder first de- scribed save that the several pockets are placed one above the other at the bottom of the strip of sash ribbon instead of straight across it, and just apove the uppermost pocket an ivory
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

ribbon runner fits into a tiny strap.
 Another sort of lingerie ribbon holder consists of two ribbon-covered cardboard circles of four-inch diam eter held together by a large spool whose tunnel comes against hole pierced in the center of each. By run ming two narrow ribbons through this series of holes and securing two ends at opposite sides of the top circle and the other two ends at opposite sides of the lower circle. the spool will move sufficiently to allow the lingerie ribbon which it holds to be un- wound. The same principle may be applied in the case of three spools joining two circles and in that way lingerie ribbons of three colors may be supplied
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

a cream lace collar. Over the white satin gown is tunic of Besnard chif- ion which stops short at either side of the front, leaving panel of the satin. The edges of the Besnard chif- fon are finished with soutache dyed to match and formed into coiled discs on the white satin. Lastly a deep fiounce of the Besnard chiffon is drop ped over frock and tunic. White em- broidered silk gloves meet the loose sleeves, and the hat of gold colored
 plush has a long white ostrich plume.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

A MONG the novelties that girls "A can make are hairpin holders. 4 The holders may be swung be- side the dressing table when in use. or rolled up and tucked away in corner when not needed. They are made of a single strip of ribbon about a half yard long by eight inches in width. The upper end is caught over an orange stick of the same length as the ribbon and equipped with short hangers of narrow satin ribbon, while the lower end is turned upward for about fingers depth and divided in- K three pockets. for long. short and medium sized hairpins.
 z< Another hairpin holder is in the form of a ball. crocheted in white worsted about the body of a Japan
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

~ ROUSSEAU plans in the autumn Al always renew interest in lln- A gerie belongings, and every Ws~ woman, after the absorbing business of selecting the new winter wearables for outer wear has been satisfactorily accomplished. likes to, renew her stock of under wearables- or dainty beau dessous as the French woman calls them - according to. latest trousseau notions.
 All lingerie garments adhere to the slim. simple lines necessary under clinging gowns. Not the least sus- picion of gather is allowed at the waist and belts and buttons have long ago gone the way of flannel petti- coats, knitted camisoles and other monstrosities of the past wherewith woman built out her form in the inter- ests of presumable protection from lthe cold. It has been proved that one
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10
For Stained Linen

VxTHEN linen has become scorehed
 M in the ironing the marks may
 W be removed by making a paste of fuller's earth and white soap, moistened with a small amount of vinegar and the juice from boiled onion. When this mixture is spread upon the stains they will quickly dis appear, and no stain will be visible after the linen is washed. In some cases 1t will be found sufficient to rub over the place that has been scorched half a raw onion. After this treat ment the linen should be soaked in cold water, and after 1t has soaked for some time the stain will most likely have disappeared.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-11-10

may be quite as warm and much more Icomfortable in lighter, thinner gar ments than were deemed possible twenty years ago and since all houses are now heated to midsummer heat and mammoth furs are the mode out iof doors, there seems little reason why women should bundle themselves up as was perhaps necessary in the days when furnaces were not.
 Just now embroidery trimmings arc ithe whim of fashion and laces are used only to set off the beautiful lneedlework. The machine embroid- cred patterns, many of them done on
 hand looms abroad, are wonderfully
 beautiful, initiating the distinguished
 hand wrought effects with great fidel-
 ity and some of these embroideries are distinguished in themselves. prices running up to four and five dollars
 the yard for some of the exclusive
The Ocala banner. (Ocala, Marion County, Fla.) 1883-194?, 1912-03-22
FOR JUDGE OF PROBATE COURT

| am a candidate FOR county judge
of Marion county. subject to the dem
ocratic primaries. During the last
three years, while / worked as book
keeper during the day, ! studied law
at night, and January last | went be-
fore the Supreme Court, and was ex-
ARMED upon twenty-three branches
of American law tone OF which was
American law of administrator ind
was admitted to practice Law in all
tie courts of Flo ida. This fact will
assure you that / a;l competent to
perform all the duties of county
Judge.
Now, my friends and fellow demo-
Gratis, / ask you to take the trouble
to inquire as to who and what / am,
and, if from these inquiries, you are
satisfied that l am competent and
merit your support, l will appreciate
your confidence, and will, if elected
to the office of county Judge, never
betray your trust.
w. E. SMITH.
The Ocala banner. (Ocala, Marion County, Fla.) 1883-194?, 1912-03-22
CANDIDATE FOR DELEGATE TO
THE DEMOCRATIC NATIONAL
CONVENTION

Yielding to the solicitation of
friends in different parts of the state,
hereby announce my candidacy for
delegate from the state at large to
the national democratic convention,
which meets in the city of Baltimore
on June 25th next
If elected l shall leave my toma-
hawk and scalping knife at home, and
will carry to the convention an olive
branch of peace, and will do all in
my power TO bring about a spirit of
harmony and good fellowship among
democrats OF all sections, schools and
classes, so that general unification
will prevail
Our only hope of victory is in get
ting together" and with that spirit
uppermost, l make an appeal to all
classes of democrats, whose desire
for victory is paramount to all other
considerations, for support.
Very truly,
FRANK HARRIS.
The Ocala banner. (Ocala, Marion County, Fla.) 1883-194?, 1912-03-22
FOR TAX ASSESSOR

To my friends who supported me
in the campaign of two years ago,
extend thanks, and with the best of
feeling toward those who expressed
their preference otherwise, | again
respectfully present my name to you
as candidate for the office of tax as
SCISSOR for Marion county.
My record for the past % years is
before you, and if the same justifies
you in casting a vote my way, l as
sure that it will be duly appreciated,
and know that you will never have
cause to regret it.
1t would afford me great pleasure
TO make a personal canvass and meet
you at your homes, but time and
means forbid, therefore will leave my
claim in your hands for your worthy
consideration. All | ask OF you is
to be given a chance, and / will prove
to you that it does not require years
of experience to become good asses
sor 1t is unfair to measure my corn
in some others half bushel; besides,
new broom sweeps mighty clean.
JAMES r. MOORHEAD.
The Ocala banner. (Ocala, Marion County, Fla.) 1883-194?, 1912-03-22

hereby announce myself = candi-
date for county commissioner foF tna
second district I have the endurses
ment OF many influential men Ga NJ
portion Of the county. and ether see.
lions also. II can have the pleaNnre
OF being the winning man un April
S0th. 1912. n viii promise % consider
matters carefully before acilnk. an4
In all cases use my best Judgment for
the interest Of the people az lafEe.
and viii favor some road Nofk BE-
ing done In those seCiiuns where 81
is reported that the LOGS are not ewes
cut out now. I also favor NelflnE
better and more results fnf fha men
ey spent By the county ! uill onpuae
putting the county any further rs
debt, as our taxes are hiEh eheueh
! hope you win considef ue
and viii give nae sour vote and nUps
port In the primary Of April -
y. q. WATKINS.