davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

to pass through the proverbial wedding ring. Novelty silks make a somewhat smarter effect thanSthe plain ones. and some odd ways of trimming the bot toms seem delightfully."- novel and sen sible None of the trimmings is put on the outside of the skirt The bot toms are cut up into square blocks. and scalloped or shaped in deep points along this treatment underneath scant frills of the same material or plaited ones of lace are set. This arrange ment is far prettier when the outside skirt is slashed than if the plating were put outside, making the skirt seem a more dress up affair.
 For fine evening use the petticoat often seems more elegant than the dress. With a French gown of white satin worn at one of the recent dress shows the accompanying petticoat was of thin val lace under flesh chiffon. The lovely thing had plenty of oppor- tunity Of displaying its charms. as the outside dress. which was a sort of prin- cess robe. was slashed at the two sides up as far as the knee. Yet the two articles were to be sold separately. Other elegant petticoats are of thin silk stockinet, with the bottoms ex- quisitely trimmed with fine laces and wee artificial flowers or ribbon A chiffon flounce over lace and decked at the edge with a trail of fragile flowers
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
PETTICOATS MUST FIT TIGHTLY


IF a woman thinks she can be smart
 without considering the lines and material of her pettcoat she is very much mistaken. As skirt foundations are, still almost as tight as bolster slips the unders&<irt must be of the softest fabric and made to fit like skin. a
 For best street wear the jupon. as the French call this article. is made oftener of, crepe de chine than of silk. The skirt is gored closely over the hips and fits about the waist without A gather- thin plafted lace in vandyke points sor deep fringes trimming the bottom. The skirt matches the gown or else the color of the hat, for. as many outside skirts are slashed at the sides or rounded up over the instep. the petticoat frequently shows.
 A skirt for solid wear is plain tai lored affair of black satin without a stitch of trimming. this fastening at the left front with snap fasteners such as are used on gloves. A white satin skirt in the same model, curiously enough, is offered for linen coat suits in any color or white. The satins used for these mderskirts are of the softest and finest sort. but women who have tried them declare that they are worth their price Among the silk petticoats softness of weave is everywhere seen, and the scant little skirts seem delicate enough
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
TUNED AND GOLDEN OAK

ONE hears so frequently nowadays
 the terms ''fumed oak" and gold en oak'| that the question naturally arises es to the meaning of the terms
 The best golden" effect is obtained with what is known as quartered oak, the log being sawed in half and then these halves sawed in half again, mak- ing quarters. Each of these quarters is then sawed at right angles, with two sawed sides parallel with the bark side, this giving the flakes of the woods in their greatest area and beauty. The wood is then filled and stained. None of this treatment. however, affects the flakes. which show up a golden yellow, especially after the varnish coats have been applied.
 ''Fumed oak" IS oak that has been treated with the fumes of ammonia. The effect of the ammonia is to darken the wood, and it also cuts the grain, roughing it up. After the wood has been treated with the fumes of the am monia it Is sandpapered down and stained or waxed. as the case may be.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

Is quite common sight-ip fact. among the party jupons
 The pettiCoat which will wash and serve for every day and look well and not cost too much is made ia number of dainty cotton textures Gingham. seersuckeI and calico appear in these. but the new weaving of these old fab rics bends to the present needs. no material seeming the clumsy taing it was of yore Black and white is al- ways good venture for the wash cot ton underskirt, but if milady wishes she can have one to match every col ored frock in her wardrobe. Folded up on tables or hanging about. as the case may be- the dainty coors of these skirts and their pretty stripes. checks and figures are very inviting. although one needs to have good model in even A cheap cotton skirt
 Wash silks and pongees are among the other tub textures displayed by petticoats in good models and fairly cheap, and women who like very soft skirts favor these with lavish purchas- ing. For hard use the pongee or wash silk skirt is always self trimmed. nar- row bound frills being considered the most washable garnishings. A good pongee pettiooat can be had for S6. Well made models in the striped French calicoos seersuckers and ging- hams cost from s1.50 up.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
Serve These With the Cup of Tea

Another good form of sandwich, made this time of conventional slices of bread. requires four heaping table spoonfuls Of minced chicken and three of mayonnafse. A cream dressing can be substituted for the one of oil Spread the mixture on three squares or ob- longs of whole wheat bread and cover with smaller pieces or chop fine some blanched almonds, toasted. but not salted, grind them in the meat chopper or crush in a mortar and spread be- tween delicate squares of buttered bread
 For a single sandwich-that is, hav- ing but one slice of bread in it's com position-this combination of ingredi- ents is considered choice: Over a dozen large plump olives pour boiling water, allowing them to stand few minutes, then drain and put on the ice. Now chop fine enough pimentos to form a teaspoonful of the mince. Chop the olives and add the pimentos with one tablespoonful of fine cracker crumbs. Crush all the mayonnaise and spread on shapes cut from thin, rather stale bread.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

WHERE are many tidbits delicious for
 serving with the social 5 o'clock cup which are unknown to the average hostess.
 Unless one keeps we'll abreast of the times accompaniments are apt to be limited to shop bought wafers of a con- ventional order or cakes, frequently oversweet
 Without robbing the occasion of its principal charm by making a formal reception of it and serving an elaborate repast it is possible to discover new things and to meet the variations of individual taste.
 For instance, the dainty finger rolls may be split lengthwise and the soft crumb in one half removed. The hol- low thus formed is to be filled with cream cheese softened with a little whipped cream. Put the two halves together and tie with bebe ribbon or tinsel cord. Or some finely chopped walnuts may be stirred into the cheese, which is to serve as filling, with or without the addition of minced olives.
 Again, the following mixture, which is just trif1e more elaborate. will ap- peal to many palates:
 One roll of cream cheese, a teaspoon full of pimentos, chopped fine, and a full tablespoonful of mayonnaise The olives should be chopped by hand. Mix and use as above.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
SMART TAILORED WAISTS.

THE shirt waist Is one of the gar A ments worn at all seasons, but is in special demand during the warmer months. Here are two costumes that show waists of quite different sorts. Tn one case there is a separate waist worn with tailored skirt, while in the other there is gown of the pretty and quaint lowered taffeta that makes such a feature of the season. g
 The costume at the left shows one of the simple waists that are always smart It can be either tucked or gath cred at the front and made with a shaped or plain yoke at the back, and the sleeves can be finished with rolled over or straight cuffs. In the waist illustrated the material is madras, and the rolled over cuffs and collar held by links are used. The waist Is an ex- ceedingly smart one. The skirt Is made in three pieces that are lapped on to panels, and these panels can be made of contrasting material. as in this instance, or of the same material band ed or trimmed in any similar way. The overlapped points make an especial feature.
 For the medium size the waist will require 3% yards of material 27 inches wide 2b yards 36 inches wide. yards
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

A iches wide. For the skirt will be needed 3% yards 27 or. 36 inches wide. 2h yards A inches wide. with 1A yards of any width for the panels. The width of the skirt at the lower edge is 2A yards.
 The second figure shows a novel blouse of the shirt waist order. It Is tucked attractively. and it includes a little yoke with narrow plastron. or center portion that renders 1t individ- ual and distinctive. 1t can be finished with or without the collar, and the sleeves can be made long or in three- quarter length. The model is a good one for silk and also for the various washable materials. The frili makes dainty finish, but is not necessary. The skirt is just simple one, with only two seams to be sewed up. It is cut after the very latest model, which means that it Is becomingly full. and it has a tuck at the lower edge. It can be cut to either the high or natural waist line.
 For the medium size the waist will require 3A yards of material 9 inches wide. 25s yards 36 inches wide. 2h yards A inches wide. For the skirt will be needed 6A yards 27 inches wide, 3A yards 3s or A inches wide.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
MUSLINS ARE POPULAR

THERE Is a place in the summer toi-
 let year after year for spotted muslin. Here we have a fabric that has never been so great a favorite among women that it became common place in their estimation. Modest and demure it is, but withal very charming.
 There are dainty white muslins with colored rosebuds and green leaves scattered over the surface, and there are others spotted with white that are given colored borders in the delicate summer shades that are always de- lightful, the pale blue. the clear pink. the soft mauve and green shades.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

heath the chair, which may be drawn out On either side of this commodious contrivance is a newspaper rack. and in the right arm is a little round hole to hold refreshing glass of lemonade.
 A handy stool to hold jardiniere filled with a plant is designed to be reversed and serve as a scrap basket.
 The rail of the porch, of course, Is never forgotten in the decorative scheme. Rustic boxes filled with bright hued geraniums and marguerites with long. hanging vines give a graceful ef- feet along the straight bare rail. When shaded with an awning in shades har- monizing with the other furnishings the porch parlor may become a place of recreation and bower of artistic beauty.
 The new awnings have fringe in stead of the more usual and substan-
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
To Whiten Clothes.

TO whiten clothes which have turned
 a bad color try the following plan: Prepare a solution of pipeclay and warm water and soak them overnight in this. Then wash and boil next day in the usual way, and they will come out looking as fresh and white as when new.
 New Blinds.
 When mailing new blinds on the roll CTS try mailing a length of tape on to the roller with them. If this Is done there is no chance of the blind tearing from the roller.
 For Jap Silk.
 Many people do not know that if Jap silk is stitched with cotton instead of silk the seams are not so likely to cookie in the wash. This Is of great saving when ironing.
 To Remove Cresses. When clothes have been hanging in the wardrobe for any length of time
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
Delicious Duchess Soup.

4 DELICIOUS duchess soup is made A from this formula of a Boston cooking teacher: Cook two slices each of carrot and onion in tablespoonful of butter until the onion yellows, then turn in a quart of white stock and a blade of mace and cook a quarter of an hour. Strain the soup and add two cupfuls of milk and thicken with two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour blended together. Season with salt and pepper and stir in at the last four rounded tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. Cook a couple of minutes and send to the table.
 Mint Paste.
 Soak three tablespoonfDls of grant, lated gelatin in one cup of cold water for half an hour. To two cups of sug- ar add a cup of cold water and bring to the boiling point. Add the gelatin and let boil, for twenty minutes. Take from the fire and add two tablespoon fuls of lemon juice, four tablespoonfuls of creme de renthe and a few grains of salt Pour into pan and let stand until stiff enough to cut into cubes. Roll in confectioner's sugar.
 Curry Omelet.
 Take six eggs, one ounce and half of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of milk. one ounce of rice cooked in white stock, curry sauce, one dessertspoonful of madras chutney, salt and pepper and two shallots. Break the eggs into a saucepan, add the milk, season to taste and beat the eggs until the whites and yolks are well mixed. Peel and chop finely the shallots, fry them a light color in a little butter in an omelet pan, add the remainder of the butter As soon as the butter is melted (not oily) pour in the beaten eggs. Stir quickly over brisk fire until the mix ture begins to set then shape into cushion form on one side of the pan.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
TAN SHOES IN VOGUE

TAN shoes are again in fashion. That A light putty color which was so much in fashion in France last winter and which one feared would become fashionable here is fortunately missing. All the Russian tans are used in pumps, in oxtords and in two eyelet ties Buckles still take precedence over ribbons. except in the oxford and on pumps.
 True, a wide number of women pre- fer the more or less huge buckle on their pumps, but you will notice that the we'll dressed woman who is smartly turned out in every detail will wear the plain pump, with its flat bow of corded ribbon. such as the men wear, no matter what its heel
 Buckles rightly belong to slippers. but there is no breach of good taste in choosing one of kid. of gun metal or of japanned metal on a pump of dull kid. If one wears patent leather slippers with Spanish heels then the buckle may be of silver. of gilt or of cut steel, hut 1t is to be hoped that American women will go back to their original method and keep this brilliant footwear of the streets in the morning hours. e
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

tiful set of white enameled furniture seen in the illustration. The lines are simple and good, and the yellow ana brown rag rug that adorns the hoor makes a delightful background for the cool white furniture.
 In furniture for outdoor porches ana living rooms wicker is the most popu- lar. Chairs come in almost every shape, from the stiff. straight variety to a couch chair, a particularly deslr- able shape for comfort being an adap- tation of the old English wing chair. This has a high back and wing shaped extensions to the sides with a writing rest arranged on the right arm and a magazine pocket on the left arm.
 The latest couch chair is somewhat like a luxurious morris chair and is fitted with a very low seat, an adjust able back and a foot rest arranged be-
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
Comfort and Beauty In the Modern Outdoor Dining Room

tial scallops that we are all familiar with in these sun protectors. And in certain places a khaki colored awning finished with red fringe is most effec- tive and wears much better than the striped awning material, which has an unpleasant fashion of fading and run ming when the summer rains play havoc with the canvas.
 Chintz and cretonne offer no end of variety in pretty colorings for pillow and table covers and without these decorations would hardly seem com plete, so fond have we become of their cheerful and dainty appearance. In both porch and garden furnishings heltery- -skelteryness, that bane of American homemaking, should be avoided. Select some central plan. some dominant keynote and stick to 1t
 DAPHNE DEAN.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
Recipes From Here and There

Fill the center of the omelet with cook ed and well favored rice into which mix the chutney finely chopped and a little curry sauce also if liked Fold the omelet, allow it to get nice golden brown and turn carefully out on an ob- long dish. Pour some curry sauce pre- viously heated round the omelet and serve quickly.
 Cinnamon Cake.
 Take the yolks of six eggs, six table spoonfuls of sugar and a small tea spoonful of ground cinnamon and put them all In a saucepan. Beat the mix ture for half an hour without changing the direction and at the end of that time add to 1t the six whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Sift in six tablespoonfuls of flour and bake the cake in a moderate oven in a flat greased tin.
 Orange Shortcake.
 One quart of flour. two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonfUl of salt, one-half teacupful of butter, one-half pint of milk Take half of this and roll half inch thick, place in dripping pan and spread with but ter, then roll the other part and put it on top of first. Bake in a hot oven. Peel seed and slice thin eight oranges and add enough sugar to make them sweet. Place these in the cake as soon as 1t is taken from the oven. Serve at once,
 imitation Pumpkin Pie. The following is a unique form of ap- pie pie, which tastes and looks much like a pumpkin pie: Crate some rather sweet apples, and for every three ap- pies use cupful of sugar, two eggs. a lteaspoonful of powdered ginger, a scant | tablespoonful of mace, also powdered. and a half teaspoonful of grated nut meg. Beat the grated applies with the sugar and spices, then stir in the eggs. Bake with an undercrust only.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
PLACING THE PIANO

THE proper placing of an upright
 piano in a room of moderate size Is to turn 1t at right angles to the side wall, leaving room between the key board and the opposite wall for the player. Then stand table, if possible an old fashioned mahogany one, with folding leaf. which can be turned up against the back of the piano. There must of course, be some drapery to cover the unpublished back of the pi- ano. A piece of good looking tapestry, brocaded silk. embroidered crape or even cretonne. draped loosely over the ton and back. but not laid in set folds. would be suitable. On the table stand a plant. a bit of pottery, brass can- dlestick or possibly lamp.
 From a musical standpoint the piano is placed in the best position, for the notes are free instead of muffied.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
A NOVEL CEDAR CHEST

A CHEAP and effective cedar chest number of cigar boxes, pull out the small nails holding them together and line a box of any kind you desire with the pieces, gluing or tacking them on. The cigar boxes are made of cedar and
 being impreguated with tobacco, cause the chest to be moth proof
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
New ins.
CURE FOR HEADACHE

HEADACHE is often the result of
 indigestion. No woman, however perfect of feature. can be truly beau- tiful when a racking pain draws her face full of fine lines and dulls the ex- pression of the eyes. The next time you are suffering with headache try drinking a half glass of cold water into which has been squeezed the juice of half lemon and half teasooonful of soda. The drink Is not unpleasant
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

NO more snapplng of finger nails try
 ing to open tight glass jar cover. This handy implement does the trick as easily as a bottle opener whisks off metal top. In fact, the jar opener is really a replica of the bottle opener. with a strong spring handle at the back. The seeder is another new inven- ton that the housewife is particularly interested in at this time of the year.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

C- HE delights of outdoor life are
 having a decided effect upon
 the architecture of summer
 "A homes. Sun parlors and porch parlors, with their charming decora- tions, are fixed features of home life nowadays, and some of the summer furnishings to be had for these apart ments tend to make these places vie with the garden itself in attractiveness.
 For floor coverings there are quaint effects in colonial rag rugs. Grass mats are also in favor, as they not only impart a cool and attractive atmos- phere to the summer living room. but they are easily kept clean. The rag rugs, though, are trifie newer and in a colonial house are more appropriate than the grass floor coverings.
 For the outdoor dining room nothing could be in better style than the beau
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
Hints About the Household

they are apt to become creased look ing This can be remedied by hanging them in front of the fire for a few min- utes. when the creases will vanish.
 New Tins.
 New tinware should be rubbed we'll all over with lard, heated for a moment in the oven or on top of the range and then well wiped. Tins treated in this way seldom. if ever, tarnish.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20
A TOILET HINT

For a greasy. oily skin put some astringent. little alcohol or toilet vinegar, into the wash water.
Arizona republican., 1912-07-20

CRETONNB BELONGINGS.
 fA COLLAPSIBLE scrap basket, a f1l-
 ing basket and writing paper box, all made of pasteboard covered with cool green and white cretonne are here pictured. They offer an agree able change from the heavier brass and wood articles used during the winter.
The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1912-07-03
A terrible skin-trouble
cured.
Her husband feared the worst But
BIB. saved her.

II am satisfied that your BIB.
saved my wife from the grave, writes
Mr.. V. {. Kirby Of Toccoa, Ga. She
no doubt had a bloOd-disease from the
way the doctors describeit. And y B 3 -.
has certainly done the work for her.
Mrs. Kirby's case was unusu-
ally severe. And J. Il. Brooks
OF Atlanta, Ca, states that the
physicians were completely bafiled
by il.
Anyway !, was very stubborn case
OF skin-trouble' he says. But after
her taking n. B.B., called % see her
personally and she was looking finei'
Nearly all skin-complaints
come from impure blood. And
BB.B. is one Of the most fhoyough
6lood-cLeaHseys ever discovered.
That IS why it has such a remark
able effect On skin-troubles Of
every kind. 1t cures them from
the fH5fac. And that makes the
cure b<ymaHrHf and comblsfe.
Tell your druggist you are
bound 10 give this splendid mcdi-
cine a fair trial. lie will supply
you. For your own sake insist
on Il.
II necessary write o. Che Bfoo9 RAIN
Go. Philadelphia or S.. LOWS. y9Hr
1l0Hcy BAL II MN. Iiff ~ hSfb ION.