Shepherdstown register. [volume] (Shepherdstown, Va. [W. Va.]) 1849-1955, 1912-09-19
A Letter From Abroad.

Mrs. Emma w. POrt, FORMERLY Vi tnis
place, who with her niece, Miss Irene
Welshans, has been travelling through
Europe the past summer, has written a
very interesting letter to her sister, Mrs.
T. H. Davis, from which we take the fol-
lowing extracts
Dear Sister-This is Saturday morning,
and | am lounging on the deck of the
Athena, and will try to tell you OF some
OF the places have seen since my last
letter. Last Sunday evening we had a
three-hours carriage-ride over Naples.
We went through the old part first, then
I'D over the hills around the convent OF
ST. Elmo, the new apartments, the park,
past the fort and along The bay. 1t was
fine, but | never saw such poverty and
filth in my life. The smells were awful.
We saw some children eight or ten years
old without stitch of clothes on-none
of them with more than one piece on; |
mean in the worst quarters. They were
playing out in the street, and seemed TO
think nothing of it. There is something
wrong to see the great number OF gilded
churches, with their wealth OF art and
marble, and the hundreds OF poor, ill-ted
people. never saw as many oeggars
in my life. They hang around the doors
of the hotels, hang on TO the cabs in drlv-
ing, and follow you everywhere, and at
every turn their hands are stretched out
for fees. | was glad to leave there.
Tuesday we spent in Pompeii. There
were three parties OF us, Of about 70 each,
and while had been there before with
DR.. Bowman, was glad to 60 again with
Prof. Clark. They are still excavatlng,
and there has been quite little more
added to the ruins since was there thIr-
teen wears ago. What was the new
house then has had several rooms added
to if. and another as large, or larger, has
been opened up. The paintings and wall
decorations are beautiful and so well pre-
served. Going through 1t with one who
has made study OF the place, people
cooking utensils, lamps, ETC., you can al
most imagine you see them. 1t makes II
very real.
You asked about the fruit. There is a
great quantity OF it-peaches, pears,
plums, grapes and cherries. They are
picked so hard and green, they are never
very good. Since we have left Naples
we have had fresh figs, green grapes and
large purple plum. We also have
melons and canteloupes.
Wednesday there was a breaking up OF
our party at the hotel at Naples. Prof.
Clark and DR.. Winter brought us to
Greece, thirty-n Of us, with the two
leaders. We have five days in Athens.
We went to Capri Wednesday, to the
Blue Grotto first. 1t is the most wonder
full thing. The bay is very blue, the wa
ter bIuer than any indigo blueing ever
made it, and the grotto is cave-like hole
in the rocks, where you enter and row
around. The light and color were Won
derful. The water, a beautiful irrides-
cent blue, looks like enameled silver.
From there we went back to the town OF
Capri, had lunch and rode up to the hill
for view of the country and bay. 1t is
very fine. This is country OF coral, and
the streets are lined with women selling
coral, mosacs, etc. We went to the
wharf before taking the boat, and boys
dived for pennies that the girls threw
into the water. They would come up
with them in their mouths. We went
from there to Sorrento and had the most
delightful hotel of the entire trip. II was
the birthplace of TasSo, the author. The
room i'm which he was born has bust OF
him, and is shown. Also the Longfellow
room, which he occupied when there. 1t
is built, as most OF the better houses in
Italy are, on an open court. The flowers
are blooming, fountains playing, etc.
There is large yard around the hotel,
and quantity Of flowers, oranges, LEM
onS, pomegranates grapes etc. rlpenlng on
the trees and vines. The oleander IS ma
tive to the soil here, and they are of ev-
cry shade, from white to the deepest red.
II is very fragrant. The sweet White
| Jessamin, also is here native and blooms
profusely. This also is the home of the
inlaid wood work. II is quite an indus
| try and some Of the handsomeSt pieces
ever saw are here. They have one desk
made for the exposition at San Francis
| co. II is such fine work there is not
| piece OF wood in it tenth OF an inch
| square. There is much fine embroidery
| and needle work here AT night in the
court and colonnade of the hotel there was
a native dance called "The Tarantala."
II is danced with scarf and castanets.
The parties leading are gay and fancifully
dressed. They dance and pose, then
take up collection.
Next day we had an early start and
drove TO Amalfi. The hotel was former
ly monastery of the Capcuian monks,
and is called Hotel de Capucian. There
| are 200 steps up from the road TO the
plaza. Our meals were served in vine
covered colonnade, overlooking the bay,
with the most delightful view. The hills
around the hotel are covered with grapes,
| plumS, peaches and pears to the very top.
Gardens with flowers and vegetables
abound, and almond, filbert and olive
trees. The roses grow in great luxury,
trimmed up like trees, the body OF them
as thick as my arm and running on trel-
lis. When we first got up there was just
a red glow in the East. Ii grew broader
and broader, until the great king of day
burst out in full force. The road is fine
macadamized one, pike we would call it.
with stone wall on the side towards the
sea. The hills are terraced and cultivat-
ed to the very top, with towns built most
ly at the top OF the hills, and great or
chards OF olives, peppers, figs, ETC., grow
ing in the valleys. We drove to Care,
took train for Brindisi, where we took
boat, the Athena, for Greece. We have
been sailing along on the blueSt sea past
the Island of Corfu, have passed the villa
of King George of Greece, seen tine villa
of the German Emperor in the distance
and what is called "Ulysses Boat" and
came right into the British fleet OF fifteen
vessels as they passed out of the harbor
six torpedo boats, the Others men of war
II was very imposing sight.
! am glad have been to Italy, espe-
cially Rome. II is rich in history and art
and wish could command the language
and pen so that could impart a portion
OF it to you. But | am glad to leave Italy
They are miSerably poor, lazy, iIl-fed
lot OF thieves and cut-throats. | bough
leather straps for our portmanteaus a
Florence, and the miserable beggars hat
stolen them both before we left Naples.
| Toilet articles al Owens & MiIIer's. 81