The Madison journal., 1912-12-07


at least, is Sofia, capital Of Bull
IL garia, focal-point for the direc-
ton of revolution In Macedonia,
heart of the camerillias OF Balkan
diplomats and city of strange ana
curious populace. all In one.
Last night the train came INTO
Sofia too late to permit OF even the
hastiest inspection. Today we oreak'
fast on the portico Of modern, well
kept hotel, overlooking a busy street;
just such a street as one will nnd IN
thousands Of American towns, where
the street car Is only run every 10
minutes and the electric lights may
be interpreted only serli-occasional-
ly between corners. That Is the first
impression Of the capital of Bulgaria
the city of revolutionists. the head
quarters Of the bloody Macedonian
committee, the place where was
Matched the conspiracy against the
American missionary, Miss Stone, and
from which there emanate, constantly.
plots against the sultan; the seat OF
secession and insurrection and every
thing else likely to overthrow the bal
ance Of power and plunge southern
Europe in war! Yet, despite that l
would rather be left alone in Sofia.
Bulgaria, than in a town in Arizona
at midnight.
A Picturesque Capital.
Bulgaria is picturesque and its
capital is particularly so. Pretty peas
ant girls throng the streets. dressed
in long, lavender skirts. from which
emerge Just a few inches Of white
underskirt, gay in its fringe; and
above this there hangs a cloak of
dark lavender. covered with embroid-
cry. Over the bosom the girls wear
the heavy silver dowry. which 1ingles
merrily as they pass.
Everybody is bound for the weekly
market, and, as is the invariable rule
In Balkan travel, the tourist, when
ever he is fortunate enough to strike
market day. follows the people to
the bazar. Over a booth Of little
horn. knives we stop moment to
watch a pair of lovers. the girl con-
spicuous for q heavily-worked apron
Of green, and with lavender cap,
worn to inclose two thin braids of
hair. Great cords are drawn across
her breast by way of ornament and
she is pretty enough for jaded west
ern globe trotter to fall in love with
on the spot. Beyond Is a man whose
home-woven rugs. on shoulder
/ nj
home they would be $50 or $50.
We are in the quarter devoted to
fruit, a lively one on the market. A
pome like the pomegranate but filled
with tiny red seeds. and known as the
Maravi. is everywhere. Also there
are grapes and plums. lemons. peaches
and apples, and. among these, dishes
of cottage cheese. Beyond are the
vegetables, mangoes and cauliflowers
potatoes and eggplant, okra, oyster
plant, pickles and tomatoes. spinach
cabbage, red cabbage and peppers
all in picturesque confusion. Onions
tied in punches. much as is garlic al
home, grace other of the brown wick
er baskets, appetizing in their clean
liness, on the racks before the stalls
But we come not to buy-not ever
the great Bulgar leek-but to see thu
people, the picturesque peasantry o
southern Bulgaria
Many of the folk Of younger ag,
have a v of beading on the yoke. an,
quite a number wear freshly-cu
dahlias banked In the hair until the!
resemble Maori princesses. but thi
style is not ubiquitous
Among the secondhand stores o
another quarter Of town-market on
sees the Moslem women, noticeabl
for the large portion Of the face the.
expose at this place.
We pass through an isle lined wit