New-York tribune., 1912-04-07
NFW FASHIONS IN FOOD
The EngIishman's Palate Is
Growing FiCkIe.
srhsONS PLAY NO PART
no,r;otism Makes Colonial Prod
ucts Much Sought
After.

A1JGl'
~. Englishman's palate is growing hckle'
aea result. distinct fashions are being
sS.,oned in foodstuffs-fashions that are
W.. &C independent OF seasonal require
W. os the departures in feminine attire.
~. between the fashion in foodstuffs and
tasbion in dress there is marked diff
.s. while one is the direct and inde-
st.r+ creation Of the trade itself. the
49, is the outcome of some peculiar drift
n public taste.
--bare are several governors OF the Eng
.-.-oon's palate. Foremost among these
:" ,bs medical profession. 1t is only neces-
- for some prominent specialist to sug-
-. the possible virtue of some article as
oid 10 digestion or as beneficial in the
aase of common disorders, and that article
= :, instant demand. China tea provides
,bs most striking instance Of this kind.
This tea was in general favor until fifty
years ago. With the appearance Of the
,oss of India and Ceylon the China variety
t.I into the background. but to-day, owing
,o the commendatory notices by physicians
~ Us peculiar digestive value, 1t is again
Gaining favor. So rapid is this return to
nonularity that whereas 100000 pounds
rere sufficient for English consumption in
100 some $4,000 pounds were required in
,o,o 4 rise Of no less than 100000 pounds
was recorded between 1910 and 1911
Another great influence responsible for
the changing fashion in foodstuffs is the
Gradual transformation Of English home
tfe particularly that Of London, in the
direction of Continental ideals. The senti-
rnent Of patriotism is also playing its part
Colonial foodstuffs are gradually displac-
ing similar produce from foreign countries
and In many instances where the products
OF the foreigner and our colonial cousins
are Of equal quality a distinct preference is
shown TO the colonies.
PATRIOTIC INFLUENCE.
The sentimental interest is strongest in
provisions and wines. colonial buffers and
colonial wines having romped into favor
within the last year or two. In the former
case the Department Of Agriculture took
advantage Of Irelands inability 10 meet
the demand for Irish butter. Although
Ireland is rapidly regaining ground, the
colonial produce has gained q permanent
foothold. Danish butter has suffered in
consequence. Sentiment. too, coupled with
eyperience, has resulted in the specific
demand. The order is no longer one Of
new laid" or fresh laid eggs, but for
English eggs. and in the case of reputable
stores that demand is met by guarantee
English bacon. too. is also insisted upon in
many cases.
Green tea" the much treasured gun
powder" Of our grandparents. has practi-
cally disappeared. and mixed teas are no
longer in demand Although China tea is
rapidly returning to favor, the teas Of
Ceylon and India still hold their own.
Coffee is not in fashion just now. but cocoa
is gaining many new patrons. Sugar Is IN
ever-growing demand, with a distinct call
for the pure cane variety. Macaroni is now
recognized as an efficient substitute for
vegetables. and its sale increases accord
ingly The demand for marmalade has also
been increased by the favorable reports Of
the medical profession Currants have been
in great vogue since the reports Of Sir
Francis Laking upon the virtues Of currant
bread Fresh fruits. now Obtainable from
our colonies practically throughout the
year have hit the dried fruits hard.
Bottled fruits are also in demand for tarts.
Potted meats in glass, which give the pub
lie an idea Of what they are buying at
the time Of purchase, are gaining favor
but American timed meats have not recov-
cred from the scare of a few years ago
In the fresh meat department the demand
for pork and veal has changed from sea
sonsl to perennial.
The public taste for fish has not only de-
veloped. but has changed. The lsmprey
and dory. which were once in great
demand and were really nourishing fish,
are quite out Of favor to-day. Turbot
soles brill and halibut hold the market
So great is the demand for the latter that
whereas few years ago it was purchas-
able at "a and sd. a pound, IL now ranges
around Is. Sd Oysters are less popular
than hitherto, but escalops are unable 10
rise to the demand The supply is,not one
quarter OF what II was FIVE years ago. con-
sequently they have trebled IN price. The
once popular crayfsh is dying out Of Eng
lsh waters. so that the table is robbed OF
one Of its old decorations.
PREPARED FOODS.
The great change in London domestic
life is most strikingly reflected in pre-
pared foods and pastries The resort TO fats
and the gradual disappearance Of the do