davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
SOME "DON'TS
 WHEN VISITING

THERE are girls who always appear
 to get more invitations than they can accept and who are asked to the same houses over and over again, while other fair ones, just as charming and delightful to all outward view, never by any chance receive second invita- tions. ....
 The popular visitor is a tactful in dividual who has the knack of so merg- ing her individuality in that of the family of which she is a temporary member that she scarcely seems a vis- itor yet she never makes the terrible mistake of usurping family privileges.
 She is not late for breakfast or any other meal She does not give orders to servants or in any way attempt to change the household routine.
 When she is asked where she would like to go or what she would like to do she answers frankly. There is nothing more irritating than the "Oh, I don't care in the least!' or "Whatever you like" reply. The desirable visitor ex- ercises her tact, however in this as in all other things and takes care not to suggest fatiguing excursions to a host ess less youthfully active than herself or force a host perhaps not too well lowered with this worlds goods into needless expense. If you desire to be a pleasing visitor don't be. too ener- getically bent on helping" If you keep your eyes open it will soon become evil dent if there are small services you can render any member of the household But the girl who insists on cooking some particular dish doing the f1owers'-in both cases requiring half an hours attendance getting her prop critics together-is an unmitigated nui- sance.
 Don't monopolize your hosts special chair or use his writing table without his direct suggestion. Don't litter the living rooms with your possessions or leave your own room untidy. Don't, just because you are visiting sit down and expect to be entertained all day long. Arrange to go walking or write letters" in your bedroom for an hour or two a day.
 Remembering these things, you also will be of the visitors whose visits, un- like those of angels, are not few and far between.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

front and about the slanting armholes. Tiny scarlet satin buttons set close to- gether follow the line of pipings. White satin shirts have small crystal buttons. and 8 fascinating trick played by this new shirt is the opening for three or four buttons below the Robe spierre collar, a shirred tucker of flesh colored chiffon being worn in the open ing. This gives the waist an unusual appearance until one discovers that the effect is "faked."
 To come back to skirts once more. there is every reason to believe that plaits will be introduced in the straight, narrow tailor made models Some of the plaits appear in & panel arrangement at the side and others as a back finish, but in every instance they are pressed or stitched very fiat, and the skirt does not measure more than two and half yards about the bottom. For dressier costumes the ac- cordion plaited jupe is seen even now on imported frocks and in its new guise Is scant and clinging. Then there is the pIaited underskirt, almost a ruff fie effect at the bottom of a skirt say about two feet deep, with a pannier or ' favorite style just now and Is a par ticularly good model for silk and thin materials.
 One of the newest fashions for late summer and early fall combines three or more materials in a gown and all ways two or more colors. The lingerie frock seen in the illustration, with it's dark taffeta coat, is an example of con- trasts in fabrics, while the blue serge illustrated is a study in color effects. Very simple in line is this coat of
 green and gold taffeta worn above a frock of cream net. The coat is almost 1 straight tunic. with Magyar sleeves
 cut in one with the garment, but the | exaggerated collar and cuffs in rich cluny lace lend it much distinction Rows of tiny green glass buttons are set on the lace as an extra trimming touch. This is a French creation and accompanies a lovely lingerie frock of net and lace. The skirt only appears l in the cut.
 1 The colonial colors, navy blue and | buff, are represented in the dainty lit i tie autumn travelling suit of navy blue
 serge designed for September bride 1 The coat is gracefully cut. and the
 walking skirt is short enough to reveal 1 buttoned boots of dull calf.
 | Among the illustrations is to be 1 found a type of the directoire costumes
 that are promised for fall. AS you see
 it is the masculine rather than the | feminine dress of the dlrectoire period
 that has inspired autumn fashions This suit is of white broadcloth, and 1 the directoire coat is worn with a belt 1 of empire green leather. Embroidered white silk gloves meet the slashed sleeves. CATHERINE TALBOT.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Canning Suggestions

EtRUIT jar rubbers can seldom be re-
 lied upon to do duty the second time. After thoroughly washing and drying the rings drop them into melt ed and partially cooled paraffin until they are heavily coated. When can- ming use the rings just as you would new ones. The heat of the jar partly melts the paraf1n. causing it to flow into any little cracks that need clos ing AS the fruit cools the paraffln hardens. securely sealing the can.
 When canning use an old fashioned gravy boat with a handle and 8 long spout for filling the jars with fruit.
 It is quite difficult when canning peaches to halve them neatly so that the edges will not look ragged, but if a circle is cut around the peach before it Is pared, then one-half twisted from the other by quick turn of the hands, the edges will be firm and even after the halves are pared
 No doubt every housewife has at some time or another discovered to her dismay that the jelly with which she has been laboring won't "jell." Let her then add a pinch of powdered alum and the result will be most gratifying.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
New Touches For the Waist

ONE of the much talked about fea-
 lures of the new waists is the sleeves. The consensus of opinion is all in favor of the long shoulder line. which Is carried out in various ways.
 The effect is very much like that of
 kimono sleeve cut off just below the
 round of the arm. This sleeve is an
 ideal affair to apply to an old fashion ed waist as it is not difficult to get this effect with an old blouse. All you have to do is to cut off the sleeve at this depth and either tuck or pipe the
 edge, then add the long sleeve, which Is slightly full but the ful1ness is care
 fully held in over the forearm by a
 deep cuff or line of buttons. Cuffs edged with a plaited frill both at the top and over the hands are new and add a modish touch to the waist. The fact that sleeves may be of a contrast ing material, such as lace or net, aids in remodeling old ones.
 Another easy method of freshening a
 blouse is by adding a vest or biblike portion of net or chiffon. Some oi these are round. while others are pointed. The latter however, are more becoming to stout figures. These vests are tucked. Sometimes tiny fancy crochet or glass buttons are used. Again they are quite severely plain. softened at the edges with plaited or
 ruff1ed frill The cuffs, with their
 plaited frills at the top and over the hands, match the vest
 Another dress up" addition to a blouse is a f1chu of lace or sheer ma terial brought down under the belt front and back and finished off either square or in a V shape. The lace cas- socks and jumpers of taffeta or the fancy silks are very effective in mak- ing the old blouse take on an air of newness.
 Chiffon or net warehouses, although not one of the things one considers ab- solutely new, are so delightful for re- juvenating purposes that they should not be forgotten
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
New Christening Gift

GIFTS for babies are so often silver o cups and silver rattles that nice gift. and at the same time a useful one, is a relief to find. However, 1t really Is to be had in Eox which holds six little pairs of baby shoes and two little pairs of silk socks, with one pair of knitted bootees. These are arranged in a box which opens with drawer The little shoes are pink, blue and white, and two pairs are shoes, two pairs are soft kid moccasins and two pairs are little slippers, so that the baby is provided for literally at "every step of the way" Three little satin sachets are also in the box, and the entire set may be had for SIP.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
@ IN IHE CULINARY WOKLD

sugar and a large tablespoonful of shortening, either lard or lard and but ter mixed Pour over just enough boil ing water from. the kettle to moisten thoroughly and no more. Cover close 1y and leave for the night Next morn ing add two or three we'll beaten eggs (according to the season), a half cup full of milk, one pint of sifted four and as much more milk as is necessary to make thin drop batter. Pour into a well greased shallow pan and bake twenty five minutes in hot oven.
 Boston Baked Chicken.
 chicken is cut up as for fricassee. and to each pound of the meat allow two tablespoonfuls of flour. one scant half teaspoonful of salt and dust of pepper. Mix thoroughly and roll each piece of the chicken in the mixture. Pack closely in a large bean pot and cover with boiling water. Bake for three hours and half Cover after ten or fifteen minutes. but not before it boils. Serve in the dish in which it Is baked.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Worth Rememberine

ITO cultivate laughter. A good laugh A is better than medicine. as a rule. To always keep your troubles to your self. Most people are too busy to be bothered with or interested in your sorrows.
 If possible, to learn how to tell good story and in this way amuse and en- certain others.
 To always try to look on the bright side of life. See the good in people and things and overlook the bad. We can always find something that is good. even if at first everything seems utterly bad.
 If you are suffering, to try to hide your aches and pains under Q bright and cheerful countenance, and, if pos- sible. a sunny smile and hearty laugh It will help you as much as those around you.
 That good humoree man or woman Is always welcome, but dolsfui one is never wanted.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
BE CAREFUL IN PRE-
 PAIRING VEGETABLES

IF vegetables not quite fresh are
 brought into the kitchen there is no hope of ever restoring them to first class condition. Even good vegetables will not be at their very best if not properly cared for after they have been received.
 Most housewives think that washing vegetables with water is the last word in carefulness. So 1t is if the water is above suspicion, but when water is not considered safe for drinking it should be boiled as we'll for washing vege- tables as it should be for family con- sumption.
 As to the best way of washing vege- tables, a few cautions will not come amiss. Some people never eat aspara- gus at table unless it has been pre-" pared by some one who is careful, as they do not enjoy biting on sand. The cleaning of this vegetable requires conscience as well as time.
 The bunch should be placed, heads down, in water for some hours and should be shaken back and forth to dislodge the particles of earth.
 Spinach is another vegetable which requires the very best attention in the cleaning line to free 1t from grit. Aft CT the roots have been cut off 1t should be washed in 8 number of waters and lifted out of the pan each time in loose handfuls before the water has been drained off.
 Celery and lettuce and other salad plants, eaten raw. must be washed with especial care They should be searched with particular care leaf by leaf, for insects, washed in several wa ters and then wiped dry with a clean cloth and put in a cold place to become crisp. Otherwise these vegetables are not worth eating.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Unusual Machine Work

HEMSTITCHING can be very neatly
 done on the machine in this way: Draw the number of threads desired and baste the edge of the hem in the center of the drawn threads. Lengthen the stitch on the machine and stitch on the very edge of the hem. Pull the hastings out and pull the edge of the hem to the bottom of the drawn threads. Hemstitching done in this way can scarcely be distinguished from that done by hand.
 The sewing machine can be employ ed in mending torn lace. Draw the edges of the tear together and baste on a piece of thin paper. Then stitch back and forth as many times as it is necessary and when finished carefully tear off the paper. Lace mended in this way will be much heater and more durable than when darned by hand.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Sure Cure For Dandruff

DOUR over one heaping tablespoon
 full of sulphur one quart boiling water Keep in an air tight vessel fol twenty-four hours, then drain off the clear portion. Rub into the scalp ev- cry night until the dandruff disappears
 While treating the scalp for dandruf1 it is advisable that one be very careful about the shampoo. The following liquid is excellent for this purpose leaving the scalp beautifully clean and the hair as fluffy as one could wish: Beat the yolk of one egg into one pint hot rainwater and add one ounce rose mary spirits. Beat the mixture vel and use 1t warm, rubbing 1t well into the scalp and over the hair. Rinse ir several waters and sit in the sun until the hair is dry.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Butterfly Effects

WHERE is at present a craze for but
 ter1y effects. The design iutters on parasol tops, on smart veilings and is worked in wonderful iridescent ef- fects on the new trimmings.
 The winged favorite is used also as shoe buckles, brooches. coiffure orna- ments, and beautiful designs are seen in enamels and small diamonds. Black satin and velvet butterfly bows edged with brilliants or colored stones are lovely The material is slipped into a frame. and thus any color can be added to the diamonds trimmed bow.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
A Dainty Collar

ITO wear with colored linen dresses a A sailor collar of sheerest null is most effective.
 It requires @ half yard of material. After cutting the collar out finish the edge with an inch wide frill of finely plaited net.
 Cuffs to match may be made with rounded or square corners and edged with plaited net.
 If a touch of color is desired a row of featherstitching where the net is joined to the collar supplies 1t
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

with sugar. To mako the drinks use a few spoonfuls of this sirup and fill the glass with water, plain or carbo- mated. The most delicious lemonade or limeade can be had at a moments notice if the juice of the fruit be kept on hand and mixed with sugar to taste. It is simplicity itself to pour water over this, and the drink is ready.
 Spiced Red Cabbage.
 Shave a medium sized head of red cabbage and soak for half an hour in cold water, then drain as dry as possi- ble. In a saucepan melt one heaping tablespoonful of butter and one table spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper, six whole cloves and one-half cupful of good vinegar. Add the drained cab bage, cover and cook slowly, then sim mer gently for fully an hour and a half
 Light Corn Bread.
 In the evening put in a mixing bowl one pint of fine cornmeal, a scant tea spoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Simple Sachets Of Linen

A PRETTY, dainty sachet is made
 from a triangular shaped piece of linen, edged on both sides by narrow torchon lace. To make, cut a square piece of fine white linen, s by s inches, and line it with a similar square of wadding, through which is scattered liberal supply of orris root and ones favorite sachet powder mixed.
 Draw on the linen some simple con- ventional floral spray and work the de- sign in natural color.
 Put the squares of linen and scented wadding together and fold into tri- angular piece Sew up the seams and gather the lace in soft ruffle around the two obliQuc sides.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
TRAVELLING SUIT FOR THE SEPTEMBER BRIDE

thusiasm the idea of being made to look like bolsters with strings around the middle. which undoubtedly is the silhouette presented by the ultra pan nier skirt of today.
 Give us long, straight lines for our tailor mades and we'll submit to dra- perry and hip effects for our less formal costumes" said a woman recently when interviewing her dressmaker about the ordering of "a few fall frocks."
 This opinion will be echoed by the majority of women, who look best and
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

There is, however. a mannish shirt that is going to figure this fall con- spicuously in the wardrobe of every well dressed woman. This shirt is mostly made of white satin and. as said. is extremely mannish in cut, aft CT the masculine directoire standard It shows the long shoulder line, long sleeves and a deeply opening Robe spierre collar finished with plaited frills. In many cases quantities of buttons are used to outline trimming edges on this new model.
 A delightful shirt of this character is built of pale gray satin with scarlet pipings around the cuffs, down the
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
DIRECTOIRE TYPES PROMISED FOR THE FALL

close gatherings at the waist line, con- fined by small buckles similar to those used on mans trousers. At each side of the skirt Is a pocket, and to com plete the resemblance to masculine at- tire braces fastened by buttons back and front hold up the skirt.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

the inner woman" before returning to the hotel, the idea presented itself of having afternoon tea served in the ocean.
 Miss Nicoll outlined her idea to the hotel carpenter who built seaworthy craft with high poop deck to hold the teacups and commodious deck space forward and midships for plates of sandwiches and cakes
 Everything being shipshape, notes were sent to several of Miss Nicolls friends inviting them to her first ocean
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

This costume, needless to say, will De adopted only by girls who go in for extremes in dress. And the wearer of the "jupe pantalon." when sitting around at her club. smoking cigarettes. will look at first sight like a man in shirt sleeves.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Y'sss O@S

tea party. After swimming about for half an hour Miss Nicoll and her friends joined young matron who was pouring tea behind the ocean going tray.
 This party proved such a success that the fair hostess issued invitations for an ocean tea" every Friday during August at D. III.
 The making of such an ocean going craft is quite within the province of the amateur carpenter with a turn for nautical construction.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
, IGRACEFUL EFFECT
. . c c . c . . . .

THE new scarf arrangements are
 really go elaborate that they be- come part of the bodice trimming. This idea is carried out on the gown seen In the illustration. The long dra- pery of black silk netting is studded
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

with gold beads, and the length of tis- sue is wrapped first about the bodice in zouave fashion and then brought from the back and twisted over the arms, where the long ends hang grace fully. Such a scarf Is adapted to a great many different treatments, all as effective as the one pictured.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

THE very latest at the seashore is the
 ocean tea party. The very original idea of entertaining friends in this unique fashion was conceived by Miss Charlotte Van Courtland Nicoll a New York society girl niece of De Lancey Nicoll, the famous lawyer.
 Miss Nicoll. who is spending the summer at Long Beach. N. Y. Is an accomplished swimmer Finding that this fascinating sport increased her appetite to such an extent while in the water that she was obliged to satisfy
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Grapefruit Cocktail,

CUT a chilled grapefruit in halves.
 With sharp, thin knife remove the seeds and cut out each section of fruit. Serve the pulp with the juice in dainty glasses. Two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one tablespoonful of sherry may be added to each glass or either or both may be omitted. Another method Is to take grapefruit juice or lemon and orange in equal proportions It is then sweetened to taste, favored with maraschino and diluted just be- fore serving with charged water and put in tall glasses with some of the grapefruit pulp and a maraschino cherry.
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
FALL BONNET FOR
 THE LITTLE MAID
} sessesesesssssssssees

FNHIS charming fall bonnet for lit-
 tie girl has just arrived from Paris It is made of blue uncut velvet, and against the blue material gre poised
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

are most at ease when gowned in mod
 erately clinging skirts. But in con- nection with skirts the latest sensa- tional model in tailor mades is the "jupe pantalon," or pantaloon skirt. This recent Partsian caprice has little in common with the erstwhile harem
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20
Refreshing Beverages.

Any fresh fruit makes a delicious drink at this time of the year when the juice squeezed from it is strained
 sweetened and filled with cold soda or aerated water. Or sirup can be made to be kept on hand by boiling the juice
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

pannier of olden times, but the new pannier of 1912, which is a strange rendering of the original idea. In many instances it looks only like an over skirt that is turned over and fastened down around the hem-an inverted bag. as it has been called.
 Women have been so devoted to the long, slim line that, as a rule. they do not welcome with any degree of en-
Arizona republican., 1912-08-20

HERE are two styles predicted
 for fall. 8 revival of the direc-
 toire types and the pannier
 modes - not, however. the
The Washington herald., 1912-08-14
CRITICISE MR.. WILSON.
Agriculture Department Probe Re.
port Is Ready.

Severe structures upon Secretary of Ag.
riculture Wilson. Assistant Secretary
Hays, and a small army Of minor officials
are made in the report, completed yes
terday. of the House Committee on Ex.
penditures in the Agriculture Depart.
ment. The report will be submitted tc
the House within a few days. Republi.
cans of the committee will probably sub
mti a dissenting report.
Secretary Wilson is scored for alleged
suppression OF an official report upon
feasibility of draining Florida Everglades
land. That Florida "land sharks''-
agents for Everglades land-were bene-
flied. Is charged.
The majority report also criticises AS
sistant Secretary Hays for negotia tins
for an interest in North Carolina lands
whose drainage was contemplated by the
government. The department policy OF
receiving private subscriptions to sup
plement Federal appropriations for land
reclamation projects is also severely
condemned.