Evening star., 1912-11-10

in long lines at the other side ana falling
away in a cascade effect at the hip.
The metallic chiffon also crosses the
bodice in surplice drapery at back and
front, the long. shirred sleeve being Of
the plain charmeuse. Amber pins are
worn In the hair with this gown, and the
earrings are gold with topaz drops. But
toned boots Of black kid with French
heels and thin soles complete the correct
afternoon costume.
Flame and sulphur, called suggestively
''colors de rinferno." are the hues par
excellence of the new season. in Paris
A close second to these warm tones are
besnard. a new brick red much favored
by Callot Soeurs, geranium and tomato.
But that there is a decided feeling for
flame-suggesting hues is evidenced by the
preference for sulphur, amber and red
dish orange called capucine Sometimes
fame and sulphur are used together. or
besnard and amber, gown or this type
being pictured on the seated figure. This
gown is a Worth model. and Its conserv-
ativism OF line Is rather belied by the
almost crude colortng. The amber-coi.
ored satin gown is ve!led with besnard
chiffon, sewn with an embroidery OF
small dull gilt beads. Over this beaded
tunic are panels of satin in the brick red
color, each panel being weighted with
gilt bead fringe. The decolletage is filled
in with very pale pink tulle and the Golf
fure ornaments very important feature
Of the modern evening toilets OF pink
tulle drawn under bandeau OF amber
beads, chou Of the tulle from which
rises paradise aigrette being placed at
one side OF the bandeau. This gorgeous
costume is completed by boots Of amber
colored satin with faceted amber but
tons.
Still another evening gown shows
-<,,N hi
over lace. the drapery being caught at
girdle and knee with large. old-fashion-
ed cameo brooches. The colors in the
gown repeat the soft pink and white
pink chiffon, draped over deeper pink
satin yelled with white lace. The bodice
Of lace over pink satin is draped with
/ pink and white chiffon and delicate
the bodice and the loose sleeves. This
lovely pink and white costume was de-
signed for a debutante Of this season
who will wear the cameo gown at one Of
the early cotillons in December.
The new draped effects are a veritable
boon to the woman who must economic,
for notwithstanding the costliness of the
new fabrics many a passe evening gown
will be able to hold up its head through
another season. discreetly draped with
yard or two Of chiffon. lace or novelty
material This hopeful possibility OF
economy is augmented by the fashion for
one-sided bodice effects. Given a partly
worn white satin evening gown, there is
no reason in the world why half of it
the worst half-vshould not be covered up
with winding drapery of lovely border
ed chiffon. or of stately brocaded velvet
which will fall away in folds from the
best half of the satin foundation. Or, II
the, inventory OF last years left-overs
discovers only a usable skirt, the bodice
being gone past redemption, new bodice
of lace may be constructed and skirt
and lace bodice be married into united
felicity by a long scarf-like winding
drapery Of fringe-edged chiffon.
Still another way to build over the last
years gown will be to veil 1t with fur
bordered chiffon tunic which will drop
/ above q flounce of lace; tunic and lace
flounce completely hiding the skirt Of the
passe gown. The bodice of lace draped
over with chiffon like the tunic will COM
plete a deliciously pretty new dancing
gown, the only expense for which will
| have been the new chiffon tunic, lace
] flounce and a little all-over lace to make
! the bodice.
y
The short skirt is an impossibility with
the draped costume-unless all canons of
| grace are to be ignored. All the new
! QrapeO gowns cover the Ieel dHO HOSL OIL
them drag on the floor, not only at the
back but all the way around. SO that the
| skirt has to be picked up when walking.
! This means, OF course. very pretty foot
wear, for nothing Is uglier under the soft
clinging draperies than clumsy walking
| boot With all these draped costumes for
afternoon wear are worn the daintiest
boots having thin turned soles and.
usually, very high heels. and draped
gowns In the evening are accompanied by
| satin slippers or by high-heeled buttoned
boots of satin or kid Afternoon boots
are Of satin, Of bronze leather, of soft kid
| or of patent leather with dull kid tops
| and the buttons contribute to the pretti-
Iness Of the boot being of pearl, ia
ceted crystal or of amber.
| Even worsted materials are draped now
and the new tailleur du ceremonie may
not claim Partisan origin unless its
slight draped effect.
A black broadcloth taiileur of this cere-
moniOus character was noted the other
day at an exhibition of paintings at
fashionable club. The coat was a pro-
nounced cutaway model with very long
tails at the back and sloping front
opening over an adorable vest of pale
English violets. caught at the coat front
near the pale lilac vest made striking
color note. The skirt of this costume
was very straight and slender In line and
| exactly at the knee at back and front
were two parallel lines of shirring which
gathered up the material for a space OF
| six inches. The draped effect resulting
New JeWelry Ideas.