New-York tribune., 1912-07-14

MIA, an extra garment is required TO
,-.shen the wardrobe 1t is invariably a
t,o,se To be thoroughly comfortable In
Va. sumner one should have plenty of
,,orses OF various types. A fresh shirt
,,aist on a hot day will go long way
.an,ard relieving the heat and oppression
-, only TO the wearer, but TO all those VINO
- ax admiring eyes upon her.
rbere IS certain style in simplicity
..h,cb IA particularly marked In the blouses
- the season. Not for many year have
-. blouses been as devoid of trimming, yet
80. are undeniaby smart and distin-
,risbed. Take, for instance, the little
S,ouss OF charmeuse. white charmeuse,
n,bich is so very popular this summer. The
best looking Of these models are fashioned
NTH the kmono shoulder, the successor
- the becoming kimono sleeve which is
s,pI with us despite the rumors to the con-
trsry. The sleeves are long according to
the dictates Of the hour, although it can
not be said that they are comfortable in
This hot weather. Some are slightly full
and are gathered in a close-ftting cuff fin
,shed with deep frill Of net falling over
the end: others have a narrower frill, edg-
ing the cuff at the hand and at the sides.
For waists Of this kind the Robespierre COL
lar in one Of it's many forms is a favorite.
and, fortunately. comfortable. Decorating
the blouse in the front is a wide jabot Of
some kind. Sometimes II is a deeply pointed
pleated frill of the material, held in the
centre by narrow band, discreetly en-
brodered, such as we have illustrated;
again, the long pointed collar will be fin
ished with a foamy cascade of lace held by
fat black velvet bow. Exceedingly sim
pie is a blouse Of shantung which, by the
way is a highly favored material Without
a particle of lace. no ornamentation Of any
kind except the material itself This is one
OF the chic models Of the season. The XII
mono shoulder lends the new note to the
sleeves, which is finished with a moderately
deep cuff, simply buttoned with large pearl
buttons of a smoky hue. The pointed col
lar Of Robespierre inclination is Joined with
a fat bow of black velvet. Below this the
front fastens with two Of the pearl buttons
encased in the scallop motif lace Yet it
fairly shouts its modish hallmark.
SMART TAILORED BLoUSES.
CharmeuSe. as we have seen, is one of
the most distinctive Of the materials cor
rallied for the tailored blouse. /. e, the
shirtwaist with the simplicity and severity
which We should expect to find in the cor
rect accompaniment of the tailored suit
Besides charmeuse there is its sister silk,
crepe de chine. which possesses the same
clinging supple qualities. making il so very
adaptable Then there is satin in the two
toned and solid colors. Of which the first
choice is white, and the taffetas In plaids,
stripes and checks and glaces effect.
Plaid taffeta for waists is one Of the
promised novelties for fall, and If you
would be in the vanguard by all means
provide yourself with one of these blouses.
We have illustrated an excellent model.
with vest Of linen, hemstitched and clev-
eIy embroidered in just a touch of the
dominant color. The collar and cuffs match
the vest, and here again new note is
struck, for vests, It is rumored, will he seen
on the newest Of the fall blouses. A band
Of the linen, likewise, outlines the outer
seam Of the three-quarters sleeve.
With the severe suits of homespun and
tweed which will be quite the smartest
thing in tailormades this fall blouses of
heavy white linen. also the unbleached linen,
pongee. ratine and the Scotch and English
1annels are tremendously good looking
These foreign hannels come in a surprising
ly beautiful array Of colorings and designs.
One Of the features Of the tailored blouse,
strictly speaking is the yoke, which is gen
orally short in the back, coming over the
shoulder line in front. one particularly ap-
pealing shirt has a yoke OF this type, point |
ed in the front and buttoning from the
point straight % the top Of the collar. In
crepe de cnine this design is really very !
clever. The softly pointed turn-down, deep |,
collar is ideally comfortable for these work |
sday shirts, and matches the turned back