Evening star., 1912-01-09
SARTORlAL HINTS.
By Elizabeth Lee.

| While the convenience of the one
niece gown must be acknowledged. there
are many middle-aged and elderly women
who prefer the separate waist ana shir''
| and with good reasons.
| In the first place their wardrobe is not
| so extensive as that of a younger wom-
an, consequently the separate garments
allow of more variety in dressing.
Then there are some women who like
warm, wooden skirt. but find the ma
terial uncomfortable when fashioned into
a waist. The wooden skirt and the silk
blouse or the silk skirt and waist Of chif-
fon cloth Cor a similar fabric) are then
much to be preferred to the gown Of one
material.
There is an economy. too, in this mode
OF dressing, for short remnants are often
to be picked up at bargain prices. and
as only the most simple models are con-
sidered in good taste these can often be
carried out by the home dressmaker. who
might hesitate before attempting the
more important one-piece gown.
An entirely plain, short skirt is never
becoming to the elderly woman, especial
ly in these days of "pillowslip effects.
If she is short or stout the straight lines
Of the Ianeled skirt with pleats at the
bottom of the skirt set in under the
panel will be an excellent model. Folds.
IuChS VI d SIIHpic dIdpcty may OC ASCu
to cut the height of the unduly tall, slen-
der figure with extremely good results
In any case this type should avoid the
straight up and down lines, whether the
skirt is for knockab bout or formal evening
wear. Tunic effects will be good carried
out on the skirt for house wear. having
a train. while the shorter woman Will
find the plain skirt with the front width
slashed upward at left side front Tor
few inches and then draped little to
display tiny bit Of underskirt very
becoming model.
The slashing should be very short al
ways. but the puckering pleats may come
at any point, from the knees downward
depending upon its becomingness to the
wearer.. In styles for blouses the sur
plice Is far and away the favorite at
present with middle-aged women.
So many feel the cold in the back and
therefore bring the material right up to
the collar there, but draw the front edges
back to display something pretty under
the face. There really Is no necessity for
a transparent in the back, because the
long line from neck to belt is quite mod
ish.
Another reason for its popularity lies
in the fact that 1t can be closed at the
side or center front, II one is willing to
be careful about adjusting the chemisette
correctly. 1t goes without saying the
long slender neck should be fitted with
a well boned high collar. but the little
dump ing OF a woman will also look well
wearing q smart, Well SET up cOl!ar IN
nine cases out of ten.
Her collar, however. must be shaped.
1t will probably measure only enc nch
under the chin, and still three inches
| will not be too high at the point of the
ears.
She must. however. omit the two
shorter bones in the collar If she will be
comfortable as well as modish, using
| two at the ears and one in the back.
A straight. fiat piping is the best fin
| ish never a ruching. On the contrary.
the slender woman may indulge in all
kinds Of frilIs and fuss at the neck.
The same with the edges Of the sur
plice Let the Short, stout woman choose
flat, fairly narrow trimming of some
kind. and the thin type the more fluffy
| fichu effects.