Baxter Springs news. [volume] (Baxter Springs, Kan.) 1882-1919, 1912-05-30

| pcdIlHb III UAOuoOop OoS NHN
home seamstress will not find any
thing especially difficult to deal with
unless some OF the sleeves bother
bit. Tho kimono sleeve is still seen,
but 1t is being supplanted by set'in
sleeves OF various kinds.
Many OF the newest blouses are cut
with the dropped shoulder. and with
this long sleeve gathered into deep
cuff is often seen. Armholes are con-
siderably larger and most OF the
sleeves are set into them without full
ness. Not entirely so. however, Tor
occasional blouses and waists are seen
with slight fullness at the top OF the
sleeve.
Sleeves are all sorts OF lengths. from
the decidedly short ones on the eve
ming gowns to the unusually long ones
on some OF the afternoon frocks and
separate blouses Many OF the elbow
and three-Quarter length sleeves are
bell shaped. and when the warm days
come this shape will be comfortable
aB well as pretty
Come Below the Waist Line.
So many blouses are extended be-
low the waist line now. and many OF
these are as pretty as possible. Some
times the blouse material is left the
desired length below both on the front
and back and cut square across the
bottom. Then the circular peplum Is
used as a finish in some cases, and II
one is ingenious in the manner OF
trimming and finishing some beautiful
blouses will result.
Blouses are not seen with much full
ness in the front, although there are
more tucks or gathers at the should
ers. ending at yoke neck. than for
merly. But there must be no blousing
at the waist line. The slight fullness
across the bust is becoming to prac-
tically every one, and even one plat
laid at the shoulder end will make a
great difference in the bocomingness
or unbecomingness OF blouse.
In the dropped shoulder seam and
the large armhole the sleeve Is set
into the armhole and stitched the
same as a mans shirt sleeve, having
the body part lap over the top OF the
sleeve and then stitched through from
the right side instead OF making an
ordinary seam. Usually this dropped
shoulder seam is accented by cord
ing or piping or band OF trimming
or insertion. The under arm and
sleeve seam are sewed in one contin-
uous seam. Care must be taken In
basting to see that It is coming out
exactly right at the bottom.
Gives a Diversity.
The majority OF blouses are collar.
less, and when necessary a blouse
may be changed into high necked
affair by wearing one OF the separate
net or lace guimpes.
Front, back and side closings are all
used, with so much latitude IN every
respect there is no excuse for wear
ing anything unbecoming. All the
usual materials are used for blouses,
besides q few new ones.
The many lovely wash materials,
from the finest handkerchief linens
to the cotton voiles and marquisettes,
and among the less expensive ones
the cross barred muslins and lawns.
give one q wide range from which to
choose. Then the soft silks and sat
ms, some OF them yelled in marqui-
settle or chiffon, and some made with
out the yelling. are most attractive
for the separate blouse. 1t is not es-
pecially easy to use chiffon and mar
quisette; 1t gets away from one so
easily in the handling.
Cut the yelling out exactly like the
lining, and watch out while you are
doing It to see that It lies straight and
smooth. Basic the seams together on
the right side ready for French seams
and slip It over the foundation to see
that II is basted right. Time may be
saved by doing the seams by hand, US
ing two or three running stitches and
then a back stitch.
Arranging Hooks and Eyes.
The best way to put the hooks and