Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1912-10-02
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FEATURES y
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AYEW YoRK.-Many a We nan who
NJ is careful in summer time to
~ provide herself with a dainty
silk or lingerie frock for special
occasions finds herself in winter un.
prepares for luncheon OF card party
nvitatiosS'--upless she attends the
function II & dressy chiffon or lace
blouse worn with her one cookbook
lag tailored suit 1t is the popular
idea OF the cost OF such costume
which discourages most women.
Dressmakers talk glibly of charmeuse,
crepe meteors, marquisettes and 9th
er expensive fabrics, throwing in
reckless suggestions about costly
laces, aud airily estimate the finished
costume, plus their services, at a mod
est SIS or $780, And so the woman
who must buy six frocks--two for her
self and four for the children-out of
the 500. hopelessly gives up the idea
OF dainty special" gown aud pro-
vides the dressy blouse which must
do luncheon and bridge duty with the
tailored skirt
A really charming frock. however
and frock Of rich ana distinguished
character-may be evolved at quite
modest cost in these days of simple
models which require but four or five
yards of material-if the making
thereof can be managed without the
assistance OF the aforesaid expensive
dressmaker; and the little special"
trock viii be Joy all winter long
and very likely ymay be used for
dainty house gown the following sea.
son.
The distinction OF the costume
described today is due to simple and
effective combinations OF color and to
rich materials modishly used.
A gray gown will require Ave yards
Of crepe meteor, which allows for q
tunic over drop skirt having
founce OF the crepe meteor at its
foot. IL both skirts are built of the
crepe meteor-not really necessary at
all-two yards more OF the material
must be provided. Match the gray as
nearly as possible In thin silk muslin
or any cotton and silk mixture-for
the drop skirt. White lawn or batiste
might be used, but silk and cotton ma
terial will be softer and give better
lines to the gown. Drop skirt and
tunic are cut with a two-gore pattern,
the tunic being several inches wider
than the underskirt and gathered
slightly into the belt. Allow this ex-
ira fullness at the center fold of the
material-about six inches to each
gore--when the tUnic is cut out. The
crepe meteor fiouHce on the drop skirt
is merely a continuation of the skirt
| and should reach we" up under the
tunic. Finish the fognce and tunic
with two-inch hem. put in with hand
stitches. This hand-hemmed finish
win add to the distinction OF the
gown; it is one of the little details for
which one pays the gigh class dress
maker her hundred dollar price.
The tunic fastens down the left
side and a placket is cut in the drop
skirt beneath. This placket. slashed
into The two-gore pattern, must be
faced and hooked over an extending
flap OF the material to insure sufi-
Client width in the skirt The tunio is
hemmed by hand all the way down
and hooked invisibly at the placket,
the buttons being added merely as
ornaments. The surplice front of the
bodice, slanting eharply from midway
of the shoulder line meets the side
fastening of the tunic, and the row of
buttons on the bodice, continued in
the row on the tunic, makes a very
graceful line. which adds height to
the figure.
The bodice should have a lining OF
thin lawn, the crepe meteor being
draped loosely on this bodice. Any
thing like a snug fit should be avoid
ed. for In the soft grace OF such a
gown lies its chief distinction. The
lawn lining should fasten down the
center front, the lace vest, backed
with bit of the white satin, hooking
across TO the left under the edge OF
the crepe meteor front The right
edge of the lace vest is fastened un.
der the right surplice front of crepe
meteor. Therefore IN donning the
gown the lining is hooked first; the
lace vest is hooked in place under the
collar and under the left surplice
front, and the lower corner of the
right surplice front is then hooked
across and the placket of the skirt
hooked together.
The sleeves. cut in two pieces. to IN
sure a trim At below the elbow, are
also lined with thin lawn and the
sleeve is SEP into the large armhole
with a cording OF the crepe meteor
over quite heavy cable cord All smart
trocks of this nature have corded arm
holes this season. The dlagonaJly
placed row of buttons adds much TO
the smartness Of the sleeve, and tbs
black note OF the buttons is repeated
In the sash. This sash is about seven
inches wide and Is double, the soft
satin being stitched on the wrong
side and turned over with no further
stitching. The sash should be very
soft and slimpsy to give a good
soft and not too thin or fiimsy In tex
ture The fIinged ends and smart
bow must be made and sewed last 70
the gown and fastened across with
the fastening Of bodice and skirt.
Be sure 10 select cream and not
dead white fiet lace for collar and
vest The collar is q wide, Dutch
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