davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

THE new waists for spring show
prominently chiffons and soft Silks,
chfffons being usually used as
yelling over novelty laces and high-col-
ored silks. Lingerie waists will INCLUDE
voiles, batistes, nets, crepes and all-over
embroidery The majority Of sleeves are
set in and are made elbow and three
quarter lengths for chiffons, silks and
lingerie, while tailormades are all full
length. Heavy laces are much IN evl-
dence as a trimming for the fasnionaole
underbody, as well as contrasting bands
of satin, and metal effects in laces. TWO
or three layers Of chiffon are sometimes
employed to give q changeable erect 70
the waist. There are many waists with
an outside finish in the form OF pepiums,
and some with coat or panel effects. The
majority, however, are to be worn De-
meath the skirt.
There is tendency toward the bizarre
in some of the new bl0uses. being made
Of chiffon or net, and lined with shot
fafreta. and the color schemes In many
are opalescent. Others are moro vivid
with touches of brilliant oriental needle
worlk. A handsome waist OF surpiice
style, made OF bleu de navy satin, nad the
edges all outlined with a band an incn
and q half wide embroidered IN rich
Greens. blues and cherry shades. There
Is q liking for vivid colorings IN the I'm
ings. such ~ bright yellow. green or
Taffetas are In plain. colorings as well
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
-Pdnies Classic FIGURE Lines

of the figure, with straight, slender hip
lines. unconfined bust and waist, and the
straight classic line in front, Is clearly
evident in the photograph. Under this
gown, however, is one of the soft cOrSetS
of tricot mesh. designed to give the beau
tiful Greek figure lines which the gown
suggests.
In the dinner gown of pale mails crepe,
embroidered with mandarin yellow
motifs, this beautiful Greek line Is lost
because an ordinary corset has been
donfed under the loosely draped bodice.
This corset though low at the top. pro-
duces curving lines at bust and hip,
and utterly spoils the expression OF the
couturier's ideal, which was one OF SIM
pie and classic lines.
A black and white restaurant gown
by Lanvin illustrates what a clever cor
setiere can do for an over-devefoped
figure, in the way Of a Greek shape.
There is no definite waist line to this
gown; bust, waist and hip melting into
each other in artistic harmony Of line,
without the least effect Of rgidity. Many
women would hesitate at sacrificing ut
terly the arduously preserved trimness OF
a waist line: but 1T is just this absence
Of waist line which gives to the gown
its lovely, natural lines. This costume
Is of white chiffon over pale gray chiffon
on which Venise lace Is appliQued. The
outer tunic of white is heavily studded
and embroidered with jet. The large,
lacy black hat and the trailing skirt Of
black charmeuse add definition and chic
to the costume With this black and
white gown, and the black and white
dinner gown, also pictured. will be worn
dainty buttoned boots of black satin or
white satin, either being correct with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
SSSSZZz2

set "cuff'' Of the bengaline, bordered
with white silk fringe, and fringe also Dor
ders the bottom of the oval A vine pat
tern is worked with gold beads on the
bag and the cuff The lining is of faint
est yellow satin. The handles are of
cream silk cord and they pass through a
casing concealed under the fIinged cuff.
This bag is very easy to make and could
be copied effectively in q delicate color
with fringe to match and crystal or pearl
embroidery; in pale gray bengaline. with
steel bead embroidery and gray silk
fringe, or in black bengaline with jet
beading and jet or silk fringe
Long silk or beaded purses with an
opening in the center and sliding rings
over this opening make one think of
very old-fashioned purses which our
great -grandmamma used to carry when
mitts were the mode. The ring purse has
come in again, on a high tide Of fash
ion from Paris, and though the fad is
Just beginning, no doubt these old-timey
purses will soon be at the height Of ia
vor. The Paris models are all in the form
of evening dress accessories, and some
Of them are large enough to hold pair
Of slippers. They are made of beaded
silk, of metallic lace over rich colored
satins and of venise and crochet laces
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
Separate Waists for Spring

as in two-tone and striped effects A
waist Of chiffon taffeta is developed in
black and white effects, the taffeta being
white and all Of the trimming Of net and
embroidery, in black. The sleeves are
set In and have very deep cuffs at the
elbow. The sleeves and waist are trimmed
with large black velvet buttons. Taffeta
bOlero jackets are among the novelties.
Some designs are in old-time regulation
cut, and others have a position finish be-
low the waist, with q crushed girdle to
hold In the jacket at the waist.
~
"A very attractive net and lace waist.
new In design, shows a square armhole
trimming and the one-side front or vest
effect, also the black lace pendant frill
1abot. which is worn across the back be-
tween the shoulders, instead Of in the
front like the ordinary jabot. Further
emphasis Of the black note is given
through bordering the sleeve bands with
black net and through the use Of q black
net collar and q straight row of black
velvet buttons down the center front. The
net and laco are In champagne color.
A stunning model Is Of copper tan satin.
and shows an Interesting embroidery
Stimulating buttons and buttonholes. It Is
Of hmOno cut, with the sleeve fullness
set below the turn Of the shoulder. The
embroidery, which is In black, outlines
the collarless neck. forms the double mo-
tifs on the front. edges the sleeve caps
and trims the CUTS. These waists are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

somewhat over 500, and simple silver
bag. with gathered mesh. attached to a
heavy filagree frame and a chain OF
silver links long enough to go around
the neck and fall below the waist was
priced modestly at $50! A little under
the half-hundred mark is q theater bag
Of crystal beads blown full of gold. so
that they closely resemble gofd beads.
The ends Of the silk threads on which
the gold beads are woven form fringe
at the bottom OF the bag. The square
frame is Of dull gold set with sunken
But, fortunately. all the new reticules
are not SO expensive. Among the rea-
sonably priced sorts are adorable bags
of lace, intended for use with summer
lingerie and lace frocks. Some Of these
pretty lace bags have metal frames;
others are in the popular lap-over en-
velope style. But always one finds the
long cordeliefe handle Of white cord.
with gay tassels dangling at the ends.
These bags are made of cream venise
lace over cream satin, with gilt frames
and shirred pockets inside, in which are
little white satin framed coin purses.
Models OF princess lace over tinted satin,
of crochet lace over linen and OF Irish
lace over linen and silk are also very at
tractive and admirable for wear with
white GUNNER frocks.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

TN art embroidery the newest and
most popular is punch work, and 1t
IS being effectively introduced in
novel designs on scarfs, centerpieces, pill
low covers and the like, and will also
be extensively used, on waists. bags, neg
liges, neckwear,' children's garments
and muslin underwear.
One of the most beautiful patterns IN
which punch work Is employed Is the
pond lily. This is very effective when
worked on deep cream linen, the leaves
being done in punch work and the buds
and full-blown lilies in solid work. The
cherry design is attractive. The huge
cherries are done in solid embroidery. all
white, on background Of green punch
work. The leaves are in green and white.
A particularly attractive rose design has
the petals. of the rose and the centers OF
the buds done in punch work, combined
with solid embroidery. Deep cream linen
is utilized for all these designs. and they
are worked on pillow covers, scarfs,
centerpieces and such articles.
X
There Is an increased variety OF de-
signs in cross-stitch work for pillow
covers. scarfs, guest towels and waists.
This stitch is also used on table linens.
sometimes appearing in conjunction with
q monogram and sometimes alone. Many
quaint little wreaths and garlands OF
flowers in delicate colorfngs are being
used on the newest luncheon sets.
Colored linens are the latest novelty In
materials, q very rich, cream-colored
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
New Ideas in Need1ework

linen being most generally preferred. A
striking centerpiece and pillow cover
were made Of gray linen and had con-
ventional apple design embroidered in old
gold and shades Of gray. Another effect
i've pillow cover is of black linen, with
flowers Of oriental coloring done In cross
stitch. Cross-stitch is also often variously
combined with French knots, punch work,
etc, but 1t Is equally effective when used
alone. Among the -favorite designs on
waists are the butterfly and the rose.
Cross-stitch, French embroidery. French
knots and punch work are extensively
employed on neckwear. with punch work
in greatest favor. One collar and cuff
set in natural linen has punch wor< and
embroidery In harmonizing shades of tan.
Side jabots are seen in punch work and
colored French embroidery.
4 X
The darning stitch IL much used on
guest towels, nursery sets and laundry
bags. A very attractive nursery set.
consisting Of q scarf and table cover.
shows ducks worked in tho darning stitch
in contrasting colors.
The newest package goods include all
tho materials necessary for embroidery.
and often garments are almost made up.
with all accessories. such as lace and
ribbon, furnished. There Is q new triple
combination garment which serves the
purpose Of corset cover, petticoat and
drawer. 1t fastens in the back and is
arranged SO as to conceal any appearance
Of the drawer when 1t Is being worn
There are stamped and made-up dressing
sacques with bOudoir caps to match, and
also stamped wolfe and batiste waists and
Grape nightgowns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

black and white costume of this charac
ter.
The black and white dinner gown
shows the uncorseted figure effect in
somewhat more modified form, the soft.
natural lines being retained, and the
skirt drapery. wrapped around the
limbs, suggests a style just now very
popular-and extremely graceful. This
gown is of white satin. yelled with point
crochet lace, and the tunic of black chif-
fon is trimmed with appliaues OF this
bold. effective white lace. Black velvet
sleeve ribbons and sash. add a strong
contrasting note.
The floating shoulder scarf has ever
been an adjunct of classic figure lines.
The Greek maids in their clingtng dra-
peries. are always pictured with airy
scarfs floating about them. In the time
of the directory. when Greek. fashions
were revived. every lady carried her
scarf The scarf Is an important ac-
cessory with the clinging. Greek gowns
Of today, and one Of these scarfs, form
ing a lovely background for q dainty
frock, is pictured. The frock. designed
for dancing and therefore rather short.
is of silver net over lavender satin,
with a yelling tunic Of embroidered
white chiffon. The skirt has q band OF
silver lace, and this lace trims the bodice
in one-sided effect. The floating tule
scarf is in a delicate tint OF lavender.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

excessive cost. And there Is usually no
doubt about the cost Of an up-to-date
evening gown. The materials. to start
with, send the price a-soaring before
the services of a dressmaker skiilful
enough to combine them harmoniousiy
have been considered at all. What with
diamante trimmings, metallic laces, crys-
tai and pearl fringes. jewel-set buttons.
Iaces yelled by chiffons, and with even
the charmeuse which FORMS the founda-
ton skirt at four and five dollars the
yard the finished cost of miladis dane
ing costume is no trifle.
Yet when the gown Is completed all
this magnificence is represented by a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
Coiffures for Young Girl.

THE latest in hairdressing 10 the Mona
! Lisa effect. copied in modification
from the celebrated painting which waa
stolen from the Louvre in Paris. with
the parted hair In front and the large
nat knots at either side entirely cover
ing the ears and extending down to the
neck.
The bang or fringe effect continues to
be popular A Dutch effect In hairdress-
ing has the hair parted from the fore
head to the nape of the neck. with knots
just. covering the ears. and has inserted
underneath the hair divisions at the
front an unusually long and heavy added
the eyebrows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

the back and often the shoulders were
covered only with pearl strings or bands
of diamante trimming. Shocking? Well,
perhaps so, if you look at it that way;
but inexpressibly lovely all the same, for
SO skillfully are fabrics and colors ham
died that the clinging chiffons and laces
appear to melt into the tone of the flesh
on shoulders. neck and arms; and the
uncorseted figure lines lend suggestion
of classic dignity and grace which make
possible decollete effects which would
be out of the question in an era Of wasp
waists and stiff. trinity drawn corsets un-
der glistening satin bodices.
There are women who can wear classic
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
Core out OF Fashion j.

formity and flow of line will be lost and
she will resemble-in some Of the posi-
tons in which she will inevitably fall in
the course of a long evening-either a
bolster tied in with a string, or wood
en- rack on which a garment is hung.
There are. Of course, special corsets
to produce the "corsetless'' effect
and these corsets are just as necessary
to the thin, angular flgure as they
are to the stout figure. Chiffon does not
cling any more gracefully to sharp angles
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
WaiStLiHes have'

entirely uncorseted figure; but they are
few and far between. Only the 1.-THE. sup
pie. slender young figure with contours
absolutely unspoiled can stand this severe
by the couturiers have these young. slim,
rounded figures. and they are taught ex-
actly how to walk and to sit. SO that the
body falls into proper lines of grace under
the clinging draperies. But alas for the
average woman, even of slender proper
TONS who dons Tanagra draped even
ing gown without the saving grace of
cleverly fitted corset to make harmony
between bust and waist and hip. All uni
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

being made in matching colors to be worn
with spring tailored suits
A very handsome waist Is in white pa
tiste, with embroidery In medium-tone
teresting design outlines the marrow
euimpe and forms epaulette trimmings
on the shoulders. The open neck IL MI
ed ia with fine black net. an outstanding
though narrow, frill finishing the neck.
The sIeeyes are three-quarters long. or
straight, full cut, and are drawn into
narrow cuffs Of the blue embroidery,
which are headed with pleated frills OF
black net.
ST. Gall embroidery has fchu-like revers
which trim the front and back, these be-
ing, formed OF the embroidery bands,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
A HOST OF SMALL BELONGINGS
CARRIED IN THE THEATER BAG.

shape fancied in these bags, the whole
bag being very soft and flexible and a
metal bar. under the flap at. the top
giving just enough stiffening to hold the
beaded fabric in shape. This model is
in q dainty Louis XVI pattern wrought
with crystal, rose-colored and green
beads. The fringe il made Of crystal and
green beads and the cordeliere handle
Is Of pale green silk. ~t.
The new metal bags are exQuisitely
dainty and the mesh part of the bag il
as soft and supple as silken fabric. Such
bags are very durable. and with q little
occasional repairing and .redipping once
In while they will last almost a. lifetime.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

Some of the many which ribbon be put are
shown odays drawing The fiat chu of lace shown the
upper sketch bordered both edges by fr OF o-nc
satin ribbon finished with bow the belt The sleeve
is also finished with it. The muf good model tor be-
seasons being made of satin covered with full seone
chiffon and finished each end by putting of the ribbon edged
with the Ribbon bow and ends on top The
shows graceful Of sash drapery
made of broad ribbon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

edged with delicate pleated frill in.
front. The upper part OF the bodice is
worked In a sheer handkerchief batiste
with hand-run tucks. and infinitesimaliy
small lingerie buttons arc used almost
like an embroidery. The sleeves are
straight cut. but are slightly shirred TO
the shoulder bands. which extend from
the neck the full length OF the sleeve.
the fullness being slightly gathered. The
sleeves are trimmed around the bottom
with embroidered bands, edged with tiny
double-pleated frflls.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

RIMNESS is the
very last thing an
e V e n | n 6 gown
S h O u ! d suggest.
The more intri-
cately draped the
gown Is and the
more the curves
Of the figure are
revealed by the
draperies the more
does It suggest
ynOdishnesS n d
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
ZG9Z4UQAvzzQEzzr1ZEs

green and white striped ottoman silk,
the silk covering the frame. Black fringe
and a black cordeliere handle make this
green and white bag very smart and dis
tinguished. The lining is white satin
and there is a clasp of dull gilt with
sunken emerald cabuchons.
The beaded bag shows the new envelope
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

accustomed themselves to having vanity
belongings, memorandum pads and other
little needfuls Of the sort always at hand.
they feel quite lost when forced to do
without them for a single evening. All
these pretty belongings are jumbled to-
gether in the interior OF the soft bag. TOR
separate pockets are an impossibiiity on
soft. gathered fabrics which are intended
to fall in limp folds In the lap.
A very dainty restaurant reticule Is
shown in fhe photograph OF standing
figure. This bag Is simply q long oval
Of heavy cream bengaline silk. the top
of the oval being clipped or to make, q
straight. opening. Around this opening 10
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

Colbert and Richelieu embroideres arc
used in conjunction with the finest OF
fine laces and decorative sashes OF nov
city ribbons. These embroideries are OF Il
raised or padded sort, and the floral de-
sign is executed on extremely sheer mulls,
batiste and handkerchief linens.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

over rich colored satins and Of venise
over pastel silks. The purse illustrated
is a huge affair. which is carried over
the arm like a wrap, and the ends are
heavily weighted with beading and bead
fringe to make them hang gracefully.
changeable taffeta, and the embroidery
is done with small gilt and steel beads.
The fringe OF steel beads and the big
tassel of the same beads make the bag
very handsome indeed. The sliding rings
are Of the taffeta incrusted with beads.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

Platinum and gold used in stripe effect
make the mesh of a new bag very hand
some The frame was a square jeWeled
affair and the long chain was also set
with jewels. The price of this bag was
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25


the good dame carried in the reticule at
her belt only bunch Of housewifely
keys, a kerchief and perhaps penny for
a beggar. 1t is likely that the dame of
modern days would rather lose most any
thing than be robbed of her costly purse
with its treasures of gold opera glasses.
jeweled smelling bottle, tiny. expensive
watch. rings to be slipped on for dinner
when the glove is removed, hundred-dol-
lar lace handkerchief and other 'trifies"
equally costly.
The restaurant bag is a gay and frivol-
Gus affair, quite different from the smart,
convenient bag carried with street cos
tunes and in which nothing more inter-
esting than subway tickets, calling cards,
drygoods samples and filthy lucre finds
a place. The restaurant bag, however,
Il quite as essential to my lady's happi-
ness and comfort as the less picturesque
shopping bag: for now that women have
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

There is great liking among young
folks for all-black gowns with ermine
furs. and IL there Is q hat. the hat Il
black, with black feathers. 49,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

Collarettes and jabots for spring wear
are daintily beWitching. These are FASH
Toned from tulle, cream lace, fine iinens
and mousselina de- SQie. tr
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

Two smaller restaurant bags. Of dam
ty and practical type. are illustrated In
anotheropictare. One of these bags Is OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25
Wasp Waists No Longer in Fashion The Classic
NaturalFigure Fashions Ideal --0nlyth Per-
feet Figure Goes Really CorsetleSs- New
COrSetSthat Produce COrSetleSS Effect

soft. flimsy bit of a costume that may
almost be drawn through bracelet,
even when the fabric is so heavy with
bead emproideries that it hangs as
straight as an artists plumb line when
off its wearer. But when on-ah, then
does the soft weighted fabric take to
itself the most lovely lines Of grace!
Then does it cling and wind about its
wearer. revealing the contour of hip
and limb, of arm and shoulder and soft
ly rounded bosom! And under it-if the
dressmaker knows her business-appears
to be absolutely nothing at all. It may
be when the satin skirt is lifted, during
the dance or the stepping into the limou-
sine. that you catch a fiutter of lace
from a supposable petticoat, but from
the way that gown clings and winds 1t
does not seem possible that even a pet
ticoat can find room beneath it's draper
les.
In addition to this clinging and winding
effect, the lining of the lace or chiffon
bodice is flesh tinted. chiffon or fine net
being used, to preserve the delicate. cling
ing lines of the outer fabric and to ac-
centuate the decollete effect. Some OF
the gowns worn in the boxes at the opera
this winter appeared to be entirely I'M
lined from the waist line up. The decol-
letage reached quite to the waist line at
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

<<r" pho steals my purse" said
- Shakespeare, IS t e a 8
NAH trashv'-which may have
wv been all very well in
Milford chronicle., 1912-11-22
BOWERS

Since the opening of the cunning sea
son most of our men and boys have
committed great slaughter on the ''bun-
ny" tribe.
Mrs. Estella Wilcutts has returned
here from a visit with relatives and
friends in Philadelphia.
Mrs. Simpson is visiting and shopping
in Philadelphia.
Henry Macklin and Thos. Emory are
visiting relatives in New York City.
Our Sunday School session of last
Sunday, was not as well attended as
usual. We look for a larger attendance
next Sunday, as we will have an un-
usually interesting lesson.
The State Library Commission has
just left fine new library at the Bow
ers Public School. All who wish to
borrow books will please inform the
librarian, LeOla Nelson.
The young son of Robert Davidson
had bad accident recently, while play
fully he fell against the hot stove and
burned himself rather badly.
Jimmie, how about our dance Tuesday
night