davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14
Short Cuts for the Housekeeper

course you must not place near fire
under any circumstances. and when
ever possible. do your cleaning in the
open air. II you do the work inside.
1t should always be i'm well venti-
lated room with no fire.
An excellent preparation for dry
cleaning is equal parts OF salt. borax
and white -four. Shake this prepara-
ton on the article to be cleaned and
rub well In then put the cleaned
article in a box and leave for two or
three days; then take out and shake
well. and. il necessary, brush with a
soft brush. This preparation will clean
lace waists or gowns, yokes. collars.
ETC.; marquisettes, nets, wells. lingerie
waists or dresses. white broadcloth or
white serge, voiles and similar ma
terials White linen suits not soiled
sufficiently to launder may be success
fully cleaned this way; also white silk
waists and little evening dresses.
To clean any kind Of white fur or
hairy cloth, make a paste of corn
starch. Plaster a generous amount on
the fur or cloth, allow to remain on
several hours. then beat thoroughly
penetrate to the skin. but only well
Through the fur and as q result il
will look like new.
II you wash pongee in water, be sure
that you dry quickly and thoroughly
before ironing. and do not dampen
again. as any drop of water will spot
1t. II one follows this method, 1t will
be soft and like new, whereas by iron
ing when wet 1t will be stifr and not
as nice,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14
Changes in Skirt Styles.

THE lines OF skirt are still straight
from the hips. but hang more from
the figure in place OF hugging it closely.
and the additional material at the belt
gives an easy look to the flowing xirt
with a box plait at the back, skirts
have three pieces and the plat, or. IL
the fabric is sufficiently wide. two pieces
and the plat. The skirts having an in
verified plat at the back are usually OF
three pieces. The hip seam always re-
mains for the slender effect and the ft-
ting.
Yorkes on skirts are rapidly reyiving
for the bordered goods. thin cotton and
fabrics, and they are
formed Of pin tucks arranged in clusters
of three. and longer in front. or COM
mence at the hip. eight inches long. and
shorten at the center back. fourteen IN
all, not crossing the front.
The waist line of such dresses as ging-
ham, linen, lawn. ETC.. Is normal. but
dressy house or evening costumes nave
the empire height, and II Is generally be-
coming.
Lingerie fiounces are gathered about
one and one-fourth as much as the space
to be covered. silk and lightweight wool
en- goods are cut straight, and some have
sharp-cut bias seam In front.
pretty effect yhay be given with q
lenKthwise and the nounce crosswise.
which proves very chic when trimmed
with velvet. satin. silk cord and buttons.
Cut I'm this manner. the material takes
different shadings that harmonic beau
tifully.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

again, there may be stfff, up-and-ooWn
bow, with a loop reaching upward ana
two loops falling straight down over the
end which reaches to the hips II the
figure is slender the sash may be tied
loosely at one side.
The color of the sash is an important
point. Few sashes worn with white lin
gerie frocks are in the simple pink or
blue colors which may be dainty and
youthful, but which can hardly be con-
sidered smart Frambois, or raspberry
color; melon pink, shrimp pink, peachblow,
Natter blue, gendarme blue, coral, tur-
auoise, jade and reseda green and golden
tan are all favored for sash bows with
white or cream lingerie frocks. and If
there be a little shirred taffeta bonnet
to match, the costume will be adorably
girIsh and chic
There are pretty afternoon frocks OF
net trimmed with lace for young girls
wear, but usually the net frock is re-
served for dancing or evening use the
afternoon tub costume being of pin-tucked
batiste and lace, of wolfe or of the popu-
lar fine embroidery. Lace-trimmed net is
a bit too elaborate in suggestion to be
light wear. Nothing, however. is loveiier
than net for the young girls dancing
frock-unless it be chiffon; but. of course,
net is the less expensive material when
cost must be considered. Every girl
should have at least one dainty dancing
costume in her summer outfit. II she Is
invited to a country house to visit there
will surely be some sort of Informal or
formal affair during her stay; and If she
spends part of the summer at hotel, OF
even at a boarding house in the country
or by the sea, occasional Saturday night
hops will call for something trif1e more
ceremonious than the ever-so-pretty tut
frock which does general duty afternoon:
and evenings.
Very dainty for girl of sixteen is 8
peachblow taffeta frock having perfect
ly straight skirt with six scallOped ne
ruffies reaching to the knee, and a wide
net fichu, covering the arms to the elbow
and crossing in modest decolletag'
at front and back. This tichu is made o
| a strip of enormously wide net, shirred III
to the proper width by groups of pin
| tucks. the groups being nine or ten inche
! apart: or. rather. there are two strips o
| the shirred net which cross each other il
surplice fashion at front and back, an
one strip is much longer than the other
SO that it continues down the back Of tn
skirt below the waist line. in broad sash
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

edged. all around. like the fichu. with mar
row net pleating.
At the front the ends cross under a big
pink rose. Exquisitely girlish is the dain
gown is built of pale blue chiffon with a
printed border in pink and green tones.
The arrangement of the bordered ma
teri1 in yoke and bodice drapery Is very
fringe weights the soft chiffon and makes
the frock still more graceful. This SIM
pie chiffon frock Is made over slip of
palest blue satin and the hair is banded
with soft, pale pink satin ribbon matching
the border tints.
The girl will spend nine-tenths Of her
summer out Of doors, and her outing
raiment will be not the least attractive
part of her summer wardrobe. First and
foremost, she should have a smartly
shaped sweater, and IL this can be one
of the striped blazer sweaters in college
colors she will be lucky and a particu-
larly chic young person. Besides the
sweater she will need good, warm utii-
ity coat down to her heels, for travelling,
for motoring, for wear on the water and
for general use over her outing costumes.
This coat may be polo model with
broad belt a mann.sh ulster model with
raglan shoulders and big pockets, a new
worsted mixture or reversible cloth model
with exaggerated reyers and turned-back
cuffs in contrasting color, or one of the
college coats Of dark worsted with lining
and turned back cuffs and revers OF
blazer-striped flannel in varsity colors.
| Several linen or duck skirts, or skirts
of neutral-toned worsted or Of khaki
| with tailored shirt waists, will fit the girl
out for ordinary fun in the country; and
the shirt waists may be made Of wash
able silk, of striped madras, of dimity or
| striped or checked lawn, according to fan
| cy-and the limit of possible expenditure
| For tennis and canoeing there may be
MILDLY blouses of white duck, or dainty,
simple models like the blouse pictured
| This neat blouse is made Of fine white
| wolfe, many tucks giving graceful full
| ness, and also preventing a too trans
| parent effect-not In good taste in an out
ing blouse. The collar, neckbow and cum:
are of blue batiste. This tennis blouse /.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

undoubtedly the style and the more
clearly the contour Of the head is de-
fined by the couture, the more, aristo-
cratic is the effect deemed. II the
natural hair is the fine, silky quality
that clings against the head and re.
fuses to fluff about prettily, 1T must
be, treated to frequent washlngs'
brushings and fannings to keep it dry
and light in texture. tonic with
out oils may also be rubbed into the
roots every day or two to keep the
hair live" and springy, with the virile
quality that young hair possesses.
Blond hair is coming into fashion
after a decade of chestnut. auburn and
bronze tresses, but the fashionable
shade is a pale straw color and not
the flaming peroxide-golden shade that
looks SO artificial Hair washed every
week will look lighter. but be very
careful that all the soap is rinsed out
of your tresses after the shampoo, II
you do not wish them to darken. A
tablespoonful OF peroxide in the rinsing
water, once a month. will brighten the
hair a wee bit and give it golden glints
without changing its color, and ia
blespoonful OF ammonia in basin OF
water will tinge brown hair with red.
Only a tablespoonful of either chemt-
cal should be used in basin OF water,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14
Embroidered Coat Sets Give Youthful Charm
to Plain Tailored Wear Dashin6 Hats
Become GirliSh Faces White the
FaYOrite for Summer How the
Young Girl Wears Her Hair.

cutaway coat lines and narrow skirts
are affected now by all ages, and no
one can tell from the back view how
old a woman may be. 1t is In the diff
cult "betwixt and between" age in
the traditional awkward age from
twelve to sweet sixteen-that the
growing girl is problem to her often
distracted mamma.
She may be too tall for her years, yet
too undeveloped and immature for young
ladified raiment, She may, on the other
hand, be too well developed for her height
and require specially planned and fitted
garments that shall disguise curves and
emphasize her youthfulness of face. She
may stand wrongly; her coloring may
need to be carefully studied and enhanced
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

A N, apron set is q serviceable present
~ for the young bride. There should
be the sewing apron. labeled when
you sew on his buttons: the apron with
the clothespin pocket, labeled 1.-THE thrifty
housewife is known by the care of her
clothespins' the long-sleeved apron, with
note. "a big apron is like charity; a
pretty rufied apron, with the words
when we come to your chatting dish
party little ingenuity will devise
other messages which will be appropriate
to the occasion and the apron.
A kitchen apron should be made of a
becoming shade of gingham or percale,
as they are stronger and wash better
than other materials. This apron should
be long enough to cover the entire dress,
and come we'll up over the waist for pro-
lection. A good pattern Is all In one
piece with armhole that slips on just like
a dress
The sewing apron should be made of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

distinguish tailored wear for older wom-
en- this season, and very much the same
proportions, except that there may be an
exaggeration Of cut-a jaunttness and
straight-fgured young girl which would
be impossible on q more fully developed
figure. OF course, the girls tailored skirt
Is shorter, also. than her older sister Z
or her mammals, and almost the entire
top of her buttoned boot IL revealed.
Street boots now have rather hi0h tops,
so that with even the shortest street
skirts the stocking may not be seen in
walking; and with the tailored suit OF
white serge or whipcord the girl wears
white buckskin boots with welted soles
and moderate heels and toes not as
pointed as those favored by her mamma
All coat lines for girlish figures are
straight and loose, anything like q form
fitting effect being avoided. Rows OF
braiding, facings of silk and many but
severe tailored effects are not for young
girlhood. The suit pictured, with Its
oblique lines Of trimming, is especially
youthful and jaunty. This suit is built
of very light worsted mixture and Is
typically gfrlish and modish at the same
time. II a young girls tailored suit is
plain in design. collar and cuffs of lin
gerie fabric will make it more youthful.
~
This. season taffeta is supremacy fash
ionable, and the growing maid, like her
mamma. will long for pretty. crisp taft
feta frock for afternoon and special wear.
The quaint trimmings and o.d-fashioned
styles favored for these taffeta costumes
make them seem especially well suited to
slender, youthful figures. The prim little
blue taffeta frock pictured. with it's mar
row, straight skirt. demure little bodice
and pulled trimmings, is adorable on its
youthful wearer; and these little taffeta
frocks are developed also in the lovely
POWERED, or pompadour, taffetas which
have old-fashioned blue and pink posies
in stiff little clusters woven on white
grounds, the weave Of the silk producing
q lovely, blurred effect so that the colors
are exceedingly soft and dainty in tone.
II the lines Of the little frock are kept
sufficiently prim and straight, any desired
trimming may be used. The taffeta may
be cut in scallops. finished with piping in
self or contrasting color. Rows of scant.
narrow rl1ff1es may be used, one above the
other; or the old-fashioned houillone,
made by shirring the taffeta over cords,
may be the choice. A lace or lingerie col
lar. matched by cuffs, will add just the
right finish to such a frock for miss OF
from twelve to sixteen years.
Embroidery frocks are especially charm
ing on young girls; and such frocks have
the added advantage Of lending them
selves gracefully to the tubbings which
will keep them as fresh and dainty as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

worn with a very smart outing skirt OF
white flannel. narrow in line but having
inverted pleats. fatty pressed. which give
a roomy width for active exercise.
y y
The young girl may wear hats that
her older sister or her maiden aunt would
not dare to don. for over a youthful.
pretty face, millinery styles that are in
themselves freakish and outrageous be-
come charmingly picturesque and indi-
vidual Simplicity. however. is always
most charming on a girl, whether IL be
expressed in hat, frock or hairdressing.
and all the hats pictured are of the SIM
pie, graceful type most suitable for
the girl under eighteen. The hat accom-
panying the embroidery trimmed lingerie
frock is of light blue straw braid, which
matches in color the blue taffeta sash
with its corded knot I'm front. The blue
straw hat is banded with white lace. and
big bow of blue velvet is poised at
one side. The roll-brim sailor, shown
with ne tailored suit, is Of navy blue
straw trimmed with blue and white straw
braid and white taffeta ribbon. Espe-
ciaily girlish and dainty is the bonnet OF
cream straw braid which has br.m or
pleated white taffeta edged with the
straw, and trimming band and bow
of straw against which are set three
small white satin roses backed by green
leaves.
The young girl is not entitled to q
grown-up couture until she assumes the
conventional dress of womanhood-that Is.
when she leaves the schoolroom and
/ makes her debut in the social world. Be-
| fore that, IL she is a tall. well grown
maid, her hair may be put UP girlishly.
| I'm three coils back of her ears, the front
| being parted or waved softly back SO that
| the contour of the head is revealed: but
the chignon. the psyche and other elabo-
rate coiffures are not for the girl; and.
| of course, any suggestion Of artificial COLI
/ fure aids or false tresses il In the worst
| of taste for the young girl not yet ''out :
With the outing costume the hair Is tied
securely with broad ribbon, and with
the evening frock the broad ribbon fillet
across the brow Is girlish and becoming.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14
Aprons as Gift for a Bride

prettiest and daintiest material that You
can find 1t may be round or square,
with just enough slope at the top TO nj
into the band smoothly. An extra piece
is sewed on at the bottom half as long
as the apron, brought up over the 1ron.,
and finished at the top with oeadins
about an inch wide. This beading Is
continued around the apron On the same
line with the extra piece; double row
of ribbon is then run in the beading. ana
when the top of the apron is put into
this space, and the ribbon drawn up, 1t
forms a beautiful sewing bag: The top
of the apron is also finished with the
beading and ribbon run through this for
strings to tie around the waist. The
bottom Of the apron is then used as a
receptacle for needlework. and keeps the
work clean and ready at any time to
pick up for the leisure moment.
Flowered organdy. China silk. and lin
ems. including linen crash, are the BEST
materials for the sewing apron One
made of plain white linen had the bot
tom part that serves for the work pocket
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

Flounced skirts are very fashionable
again: and many of the lingerie frocks
for girls have skirts with three embroid-
cry aounces, reaching to the sash line.
One says sash line. because every after
noon costume of the young girls is sure
to have it's girlish, graceful sash. Some
times the bow of the sash is a fiat, cravat
shaped affair: sometimes 1t is SOFT
rosette Again, there is no bow, one enc
of the soft, wide ribbon being Simply
looped over the other at the KNOT ieI
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14
New Hints on Dry Cleaning and
Renovating.

New Hints on OTy MEANING anu
Renovating.
THE best method of dry. cleaning
II is to use gasoline and soap
that comes especially for dry
cleaning and is soluable IN gasoiine
This dry cleaning soap, sometimes
called benzine soap, may be obtained
from any druggist in fve-pound lots
or more, but the. druggist must be
made to understand that the soap
wanted is one that will readily dis
solve in gasoline. Many women
undertake to clean garments simply
by washing In gasoline, but this Is not
much more effective than washing
garments in water without soap.
Au.articles of wearing apparel should
be cleaned, as follows:
First. carefully remove all matches
from the pockets OF mems garments
then Law each garment on q table ana
give it a thorough brushing 10 remove
ALI loose dust and dirt. Then get TOUT
vessels proportioned to the DUH u % ,nd
Of the cleaning soap to every TOUR gai-
ions OF the gasoline, spread the aru,
Gle to be cleaned on taoie anu
thoroughly brush the most soiIeo PATS
brush from time to time In the soiu-
ton Of gasoline and soap. After TINS
the garment should be- nanoied IoI
fifteen or twenty minutes In the gas
oline and soap: then na IN a .ns t Sa hung
in the air to dry. After they are dry
they may be ironed by. spreading them
on q table, laying damp clotn over
them and pressing with warm iron.
~
Garments that are badly soiied should
be soaked for some time in cioseiy
covered vessel Those of delicate and
sne texture seldom require brushing.
hut should BE handled gently In the
gasoline solution and wruns on.
through folded cloths Silk lacss, ties.
velvets, pushes. ETC.. should be Cleaned
in the. same way, except the plushes
and velyets. which should be merely
laid on the table and evenly brushed
With the solution. rinsed and then hung
I'M to dry WITHOUT wringing to avoid
Winding. After this they should be
steamed by putting wet ciotn on =
hot fatiron and laying the plush or
time. to raise the pile. II you wet
velvet hat or dress, hold 1t over the
radiator or fire and keep rubbing with
a stifr brush while drying. II allowed
brush velvet In order to get the dust
out, instead of using brush for the
purpose, take a piece OF velvet and
rub thoroughly with that 1t Is much
more effective.
When q garment has only q few
soiled spots on 1t, they may be re-
moved by dipping stiff brush In the
gasoline and soap solution and brush
ing the spots with long. full sweeps OF
the brush, then brushing In the same
way with clean gasoline.
If after cleaning an article with
gasoline or benzine. and after hanging
outdoors to thoroughly air. 1t still has
an odor clinging to 1t. bring 1t In and
place it over hot-air register with
heat coming up good and strong. This
will remove evtry particle Of odor. OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

daughters wardrobe by safely deciding
on white White Is youths own privilege.
and never does the young girl look more
charming than when in spotless white
from top to toe-a spotlessness which
would be trying to the older woman IN
less relieved by a colored hat or parasol
or even a saving bit of a black bow at
the throat. There are delightful outing
and beach suits of white whipcord and
serge for young girls wear. and these
suits have many. of the hallmarks that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

nv other shades than the eternal baby
blues and pinks offered by the shops
which make a business Of providing for
the needs of youth; Grand this is the
most harassing problem Of all to the dis
tracted mamma-she may be jeune nile
having decided ideas OF her own In the
way of dress which do not coincide with
the maternal notion of what Is suitable
for her years and type
The bridge player Is urged to play
trumps when in doubt and by the same
token may the puzzled mother settle most
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

ting shop will be likely 10 SUIT net
after sixteen or seventeen she dresses,
with notifications. much like her
mother-and even, these days, like her
grandmother; for high heels. dashing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14

HA T anything
looks well on
youth" is a fall
lacy which the
mother of a grow
ing girl can read
lily disprove. I'm
der twelve the
girl is a child.
and anything
picked up In cor
rect size In a
children's OUTFIT
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-14
We note some skirts trif1e wider
and much clinging drapery.

Whipcords. two toned, and whipcord
diagonals are most popular for the coat
and skirt suit for early spring wear. One
of the smartest of the new models in this
material is of two-tone variety In gray
and white.
Eyelet-embroidered taffeta used in con-
nection with plain taffeta and chiffon OF
the same color are materials used In the
makeup of some very attractive models.
Fetching little coates are fashioned from
this material.
parabiy lovely. They come in black ana
colors, but are unusually smart in white
striped diagOnally in black or gray. The
shepherd 's-plaid and diamOnd-checked de-