Honolulu star-bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1912-2010, 1912-11-02
Honolulu Femininity interested
in Latest Developments
of Fashion

Annette Rittenhouse. writing from
Paric, under date Of October 2, gos,
sips OF many things, ESPECIALLY the
pannier, and much that. she has to say
is OF interest to Honolulu's smartly
gowned women.
The pannier, sometimes modified,
and partly disguised but often pro-
claiming itself the real thing made
it's appearance here about the same
time that the gay Parisians adopted
it, fact not at all surprising when
one considers how many Honolulans
travel abroad each year and bring
home with them the real Worth and
Paquin creations; and not few ideas
to be developed here by some OF the
city's clever designers and gown
builders. =, l.:,a.. III
There is so much that is interesting
about the paunieF that it is won
der we take It's advent SO casually.
Some one said that the. best desCrfp:
ton of 1t was IN the now historic,
poem: 'soff again on again Off again
Finnigin." ID H isiitl i: tslls Il
No one seems to deny that Nine
Cheflit introduced II with success
last February. 1t was then q nine day
wonder. Every one wrota OF II. tax
ed or it, sketched ,it. and the French
and American papers were fiiIl 81 dRsI
crlpiions about It. Would il gps liYlnttd
IL lasts Would the other DIRE ssmakers
approve of II?
All these questions were answered
satisfactorily In different ways every
week. America took up the idea at
once, and then said 1t wouldn't go;
In Paris, 1t was tried flor seyera
weeks and then failed, yet all the time
the house of Cheruit kept making 1t,
and Nine. Cheruit kept on wearing 1t,
BY. the time the June weather was
abroad in the land all the dressmak-
ers gave out ut one time or other the
statement that the pannier was dead.
II was a caprice, they said. BID for
advertisement within OF an extres
mely clever house, SO the pannier was
not worn for Ia month or two, when,
suddenly, there doomed up over the
horizon ct Trouyille and Deauyille and
San Moritz motley throng Of pam
niers.
They we're in silk and serge, satin
and ratina. ia evening gowns, coat
suits and afternoon wraps. twas not
the pannier pure and simple. II did
not stand out IKE baskets on q mule
back. from which u got Its name; y
was not made of. sstiff fabrics, and
even rs folds were flattened down 70
make long lines, but u was nothing
more or less than pannier. We now
call 1t drapery, but the main idea re-
mains. and even such great designers
as Paouin. and Lady Duff Gordon have
made row1s with an outstanding dra-
merry from the waist, caught In tight,
ly at the knees by fur or tulle or
jeweled trimmings.
Marie Tempest, who is one OF the
best dressed actresses on the stage,
came out In new play in London the
other night in which she wore two
admirable pannier gowns. There was
no hiding the fact under the name OF
skirt 6rapery; there was no swatnlng
or swirling Of the fabric In Oriental
folds around the body; the silk was
gathered or plated to the waist and
tied in at the knees. About this band
the material stood straight out, &C
centuating the narrowness OF the
skirt beneath.
Paouin's pannier Gown.
When mannequin came In wear
ing a pink pannier gown man or
fashion who was looking at the gowns
with his wife groke into enthusiasm
about II that the mannequin was
swirling and swaying before him as
though she were posing for living pic
lures. He said emphatically 1t was the
best looking gown he had seen In
Paris, and have learned to listen
with respect to a mans opinion about
a costume. He may not know the ways
and wherefores. the cost or the name
ON the label, but he has an amazing
way of knowing what is becoming to
a woman, what gown has good lines
and not false ones. .-,-
This frock was rose pink taffeta.
The lower skirt was narrow and plain,
and the panniers were formed by side
plaits arranged into the belt, facing
each other in two groups, and then
borrowed into curved hem well be-
low the knees. You can easily see how
this manipulation gave the width
between the knee and hip, and the ia.
brio had body enough to keep the
pIaits from falling in.
The bodice was a, casual affair OF
pink tulle ana pink taffeta, with float
ing sleeves that we're caught about
the arm in much the same careless
graceful way that Downey draped the
arms of Lady Hamilton. The gown,
even though it represented modern
fashion, had a charming Old World
air, and distinctly suited the demure'
ness of the girl who wore it.
It would be an enchanting frock for
a debutante. The spread of the pan,
nier is far enough down on the figure
to give grace, and it allows a long line
from shoulder to knee to be preserved
1t could be repeated in white, and
some one has initiated it after a meas
ure in pinh and blue taffeta, but
think it is at its best in this rather
delicate shade of rose pink
Paquins shows other skirts, some fol
walking, others for afternoon wear