The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1912-10-19

"iS az iedSI lne details or the
models may be worked out in other
materials.
The Medici collar, by which design
ers seem to mean any sort of collar
that shows the slightest tendency to
stand up or flare out at the back, is
one of the distinctive items of the
new seasons modes and seems des-
tined to play an important role in
the winters frocks, coats furs, etc.
Very high close choker collars are
much used too, collars of the frock
material that is, rather than of trans
parent stuff such as tulle Or lace. and
then there are innumerable variations
on the Directoire idea, a collar high
and close on sides and in the back,
but leaving the throat uncovered or
covered only by a transparent mate
rial in front. On the high close col
lar of the frock material line of fur
is often used as finish, and this adds
to the warmth of these new woollen
frocks.
Models in corduroy and in velvet
similar to those in wool and about as
warm are shown by the importers and
are charming for street wear or steam
less houses. More practical than the
all wool frock is the model in silk or
wool and silk or wool and chiffon.
Charmeuse Is more than ever used
for the general utility one-piece frock
and for the dressiest models too. The
crepes, particularly crepe de chine,
and some of the weaves with crinkley
or rather rough surfaces but firm tex
ture are liked for the purpose too and
broche or jacquard weaves in crepe
and kindred materials are extremely
modish.
Soft corded silks, not the firm heavy
ottoman or bengaline class, but in
crepe texture and lightweight cord,
such as the cote de cheval, make up
admirably for the informal little frock.
Black relieved by white or by color
is tremendously popular once more.
Much baby lamb cloth in black is be-
ing made up for dressy twopiece and
three piece costumes and various 9TH
err black cloths, including the lustrous
and supple black broadcloths, are
used for frocks and suits.
Many handsome black costumes
have collars or collars and waistcoats
of white satin, embroidered or not
> embroidered as the case may be. Of
ten a black velvet coat goes with a
frock or skirt of black cloth or of black
satin and the idea is a good one, for
such a coat may be made to do duty
as a dressy separate coat if it is
designed with view to such service.
Very few separate blouses are worn
with street suits. The upper part of
the corsage is usually of white ch.f-
fon, and the lower part matches the
skirt The few blouses that are worn
oiN NV NiOPNu III NAAAIS'
Long dress sleeves are fashionable.
When made of chiffon, they are u.s.
ually shirred into cuffs. When made
of brocade, of satin, or of velvet, they
are very tight and shapely and fire.
quently are bordered with fur. Some
sleeves show fullness above the elbow
in the shape of shirred or plated
puffs. Many dress sleeves are still
made with a combination of two ma
terials. The lower part is of lace or
chiffon, which is fulled into a long
shoulder of cloth or silk, and gathered
to the hand by a narrow band, below
which hangs a frill of the net.
Others, made in this same combina-
ton of net and cloth, are long and
fitted tightly to the arm. The lace
under portion runs up in a deep point
above the elbow over the cloth part
of the sleeve. Usually this style of
sleeve is developed In dark cloth with
some bright touch of color in the form
of printed velvet brocaded chiffon or
lace.
Many jackets are knee-length cuta-
ways, although other smart models
hang in perfectly straight lines from
the shoulder to above four inches be-
low the hips, sboth back and front.
Collars of jackets are or two different
types, high, standing, turnover collars
of fur or velvet, cut in broad, pointed
ends, which extend out quite to the
shoulder, or de Medici ruffs, with
slightly decollete fronts filled in by
yokes and high, standing, inner col
lars of net.
Sleeves of jackets are long and Com
L. tight, though in some a
slight fullness from below the
elbow allows the sleeve to
extend in a flaring cuf over
the hand from beneath narrow cloth
or leather band fastened snugly at the
wrist with a more or less ornamental
buckle