Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-01-21
Mems Fashions for 1912.

and crocheted cravats gain in favor.
likewise the use of waistcoat edging.
The fancy tie for day wear. heretofors
confined to the warmer months, has held
over as a smart accessory. The double
cuff on evening shirts was abandoned
as impractical from the popular view
point Latterly the ascot has been more
in evidence. Pumps, not shoes, are worn
almost exclusively in the evening, patent
leather with the swallowtail, dull calf
with the jacket. Black and white stock
ties have come rapidly to the fore.
Then there have been noteworthy mod
ifications in the contour Of our clothes
during the past twelvemonth. Jackets
became more snug at shoulders and
waist, sleeves became tighter freak cuts
i'm pockets. lapels and cuffs were avoid
ed, derbies became fiat of brim and low
of crown, shoes became fiat of sole and
low of heel. Also during 1911 there wera
new fabrics and patterns. Fuzzy cloths
attained high vogue in oyercoats and
soft hats. Suitings were restricted prin-
cipally to mixtures and pencil stripes.
Braid was used on evening waistcoats
as well as on morning coats. For sum
mer wear mohairs, batistes. linens and
the light fannels had more widespread
use. Silk shirtings became favored OF
the many instead of the few. Fold COL
lars began to vary from the close-frone
model to the spaced model. The soft
collar. despite its popularity. maintaiked
it's place in exclusive quarters. The mas
dras collar. with self stripes, and the
pique collar were taken up later as q
natural result of the great vogue OF pats
termed soft collars.
Altogether. you see, the year just closed
was not an uneyentful one so far as
the evolution of mems dress is concerns
more Innovations. perhaps l should say
more marked Innovations. Yet nothing
SO radical as to warrant the assumption
that were upsetting present standards
of 1fpha hak
heard TRADES against the starched COLI
lar, that it retards the circulation and So
interferes with mental powers. Yet mon
go on wearing IL and thinking at tho
same time, and will continue to do so
no doubt. If only because it is alone in
it's wilderness ii must stay. And meU
need stiff collar just as they need u
stiff upper lip. We have heard the derby
denounced because of its binding
but our derbies are now
light and We wear them tilted
back so that they bind no longer.
Some progress has been made I'm the
direction of sense in clothes. No longer
do we wear collars that choke. shoes
that are pointed and pinch. tight overa
coats that entail contortions to don and
don, cravats with bands that refuse 10
slide, cuffs that emerge awkwardly II
We do any straphanging, shirts thaS
must be wtggled into ana out OF, OF cluiii-
sy jewelry that increases the white
mans burden. There's no sane reason
why we cannot come in the summer OF
1912 to collars that set well though un.
starched, suits that the hreeZes can pens
citrate and hats and shirts and shoes
hat are suited to griIling weather.
The shawl collar Is more seen than
asst winter, not only on overcoats, but
also on the evening Jacket. see that
satin forms a new note In connection
With evening waistcoats and ties bot0
'ormal and Informal. 1t might he in ORD
Ter to note that an excess of fancy etc
ects in evening haberdashery may ba
wooded by regarding a simple little
-ule that the best-dressed set observed
{ lis this: When the shirt is pique Cd
distinct pattern 1t is well to have tho tie
match and the waistcoat OF severely
,lain weave. When the waistcoat Is
ancy It Is well to have the tie OF tho
ame material. and with these to weaN
severely plain shirt. This, of course
. more a matter Of taste than OF fash<
on.-The Haberdasher.