Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-01-21

A THOUGH for several years past
~ the prophets have been confidently
= telling Of the impending re-
vival Of the modes Of the '30s,
they have not materialized. Nine
teen-twelve finds us no nearer TO
them than we were decade ago. In
truth, there is less of novelty In our
dress than there was three years back.
The reason most of these goodly inten-
toned writer's take wrong angle is
that they either do not recognize or are
not closely enough in touch with the
spirit and aims that are guiding the
makers of modern fashion. A few weird
extremes appear here and there during
a single season, and 10, we have trea-
tise on the popular craving for the "trip
peries of long ago. A man who would
set himself up as 4 leader In the realm
of dress will grace a smart ball wearing
satin knickerbockers, silk stockings and
buckled pumps. That is Immediately
scheduled as the ultra thing for the fol-
lowing season. Even one of our crack
tailors has joined the ranks of the proph-
cts, presumably because he has had Il
few calls for these abbreviated limb
covers 1 fear his prestige is about to
receive a hard blow. Bluntly put. the
American people are preoccupied with a
twofold quest, namely. money and pleas
ure. The former became intense before
the latter. Business life could not be so
keen as it is without the reflex influence
upon our activities in the few remaining
hours of leisure. We crowd the work
ing day to the full. and we perforce carry
like energy into our pastimes. I cannot
see why a great deal Of thought or dis
cernment is needed to realize that such
times as these are positively the most
unfavorable to a return to dandylsnl.
yIa.1 yrnan q ~
inactive almost to the point Of incidence
when minds have nothing particularly
serious to occupy them, and when sports
are less virile than they are today. me
tendency is all In the other direction. a
notable townsman whose dictum Is la"
in the realm of society has made 1t as
clear and distinct as the New York Sky
line that the wealthy tdler is nowadays
persona non grata in the best set because
Of his very uselessness. We are constant
ly setting higher standards Of living.
The men of means who retain the re-
spect of their fellows are they who count
themselves workers. ] doubt II there was
ever a time in this country when such
a proportion Of those who have accumu-
lated vast fortunes continued their la
bors so far into the years OF frost. Even
then 1t is considered the part OF duty
TO busy ones self with the great causes
that make for the betterment OF man
kind In the face of such conditions how
ridiculous it Is to pirate about feathers
and laces. Two years ago they tried a
frilled evening shirt. 1t got no more
than a peep Of recognition. So 1t has
been likewise with a dozen or more ILL
timed introductions.
=
For all that. fashion is not stagnating..
The changes are changes Of weaves and
fabrics, not of forms. Nineteen-eleyen
witnessed some important developments.
The frock coat, after a distinguished ca
reer. disappeared from the scene COM
Dletely and in it's place came the morn
ng coat. or black cutaway. The opera
nat. the brown derby, the gray evening
waistcoat, the finely tucked evening
shirt. colorful hosiery and handkerchiefs.
CATERS, all. lost caste. REVEALS during
the year included wing collars. stfn-
bosom shirts, cloth hats. raglan and belt
ID overcoats, fancy day waistcoats. WOOL
IN knitted waistcoats. plain silk hosiery,
watch chains, blazers, waist sashes and
putting knickerbockers.
Besides these changes we saw knitted