davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

BEAUTIFUL Collection of
0"Period Costumes" Being
Arranged Under Cooperation
of Committee of Society
Women-Will Show Gradual
Change of Styles Since Days
of Pilgrim Fathers and James
town Settlers-Latter Day
History of Apparel to Be Dis
played in Series Representing
Administrations of Presidents
Series of Inaugural Gowns
of Presidents Wives and
Court Dresses Worn Abroad
by Wives of Our Ambassa-
doris and Ministers-Through
This Series Visitors Will
Trace the Fashions of the
Colonial Dame and the Rise
and Fall of the Hoop Skirt,
Bustle, Etc.
BY JOHN ELFRETH WATKINS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

HE evolution of the
Easter finery of
Americas loveliest
bellies and matronS
is to be illustrated
in a comprehensive
exhibit of costumes
now being installed
in the National
Museum.
L h e enterprise
was lately inaugu-
rated by a. commit
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

and so the gardener knows what kind Of
flowers to expect from his bulbs. BY this
plant may be created. but in growing
from the seed 1t Is quite different. Red
tulip seeds may grow into plants bearing
white flowers This is the branch Of
tulip raising which has not yet been sue
cessfully tried in America. so we must
still look to Holland for the new varieties
Of these blossoms. There the patient gar
deners plant the seeds and carefully at
tend the new plants, which do not bloom
for about seven years.
gun. The work of cultivation must con-
tinue through twenty or twenty-five years
to obtain desired variety OF new tulips
Holland has told us how to do this. but
see. II America ever succeeds in pro-
dueing tulip Of her own different from
any foreign variety, a fabulous price Will
be paid Tor it. The purchaser. however,
loser. for he win be actually buying q
whole trust or monopoly, q patent tulip
which viii serve as stock in the growing
Of new flowers. Should America really
create such a tulip, its price would recall
the tremendous sums given for many Of
the rare varieties of this plant in Holland
in the sixteenth century.
The bulbs were not bought to sell at
profit. but to keep in the conservatives
of the wealthy men OF the land to bloom
for the pleasure and admiration of their
friends. Had Conrad Gesner foreseen the
ruin which the blossoms were to bring to
many Of his prosperous countrymen. he
would have hesitated before seeking to
popularise the flower in Holland. In his
day the tulip was largely cultivated in
Constantinople It took but short time
for the wealthy merchants OF Amsterdam
70 covet these brilliantly colored blossoms.
Wealth in Holland at that time was COM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

his knife. Just then his Dutch host saw
the damage which had been done and
his admiral Van der Eyck." Apologies
were of no avail. To avoid the fate OF
the sailor the traveller was compelled to
give security for the payment of q. 600
and so his lesson in mature study"
proved expensive.
Toward the middle Of the seventeenth
century the tulips seemed actually to
stand for culture. 1t was considered bad
taste for any man Of means not to have
his collection Of bulbs. Such an insane
ardor possessed the Hollanders who gave
themselves up to the study Of tulips that
their vocabularies were limited to petals.
bulbs, color. seeds and soil. Soon all
Europe spread her mouth into q broad
grin at the folly Of the little nation, for
mobiles, citizens, farmers. artisans. sail
ors and even chimney sweeps tried their
hands in the cultivation Of the blossoms.
All classes of people sacrificed their
All of the industries were neglected; the
Dutch thought this craze would last for
ever, and that all the world would con-
tinue to send to Holland for its bulbs,
paying whatever prices were asked.
Tulip trade became so extensive that
tulip notaries negotiated many OF the
sales. The trafic was 30 increased that
a special code Of laws was established
for its direction. Tulips were sold at the
exchanges in the large cities and At the
principal taverns of the villages. Thou
sands Of bulbs which were sold were
never raised. The business became q
that it could not 60 on forever they be-
gan to dispose OF their wares and 90 the
market became giutted with the bulbs,
which fell IN price. Financial failures be-
ArnA IL
sued. The bankrupt appealed to the gov
eminent. but Il could do littlo for THAR
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

= III OIL gardens,
public parks and
hundreds Of private
garden plots Of
Washington reveal
the fact that spring
with her warm
sunshine is here at
last. Although none
of these favored
spots may as yet
be called gay with
the splendor of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
Mes. GRANT
TIE REIGN OF ME BUsTLE

that Dolly Madison herself needed not
these aids to her complexion, whose color
was seen to come and CO." One OF her
state gowns had a long train Of bun
velvet, and with this she wore a turban
of the same hue, ornamented with a bird
of paradise. A letter writer describes
her thus, at one of her levees:
Her majesty's appearance was truly
regal, dressed In a robe Of pink satin,
trimmed deliberately with ermine, a white
velvet and satin turban, with nodding
ostrich plumes and crescent in front,
gold chain and clasp round the waist
and wrists. IT'S here the woman that
adorns the dress and not the dress that
beauties the woman"
The figures representing the Monroe
period will show that black dresses,
especially Of velvet and satin. now came
into vogue; that bodices gradually length
ened until the waist line dropped to its
natural level. that skirts became less
clinging, giving more OF a suggestion Of
petticoats beneath: that long sleeves
gained favor, that necks became square
behind and before, and that flounces
reached the height Of their glory. Some
times there We're a dozen on one skirt.
Mrs. Monroe was always fashion plate.
and her state gowns, usually OF the rich
est velvets, displayed her neck and arms.
1t is said that she once refused one Of
her own relatives entrance to one OF her
levees because he omitted the small
clothes and silk hose adhered to by the
regime or James monroe, the last OF the
cooked hats"
With the advent Of the Quincy Adamses
came the reign of the grotesque lego
mutton sleeve, short, full skirt and gil
gantic poke bonnet, which lasted through
Jackson's administration as we'll One
of these sleeves often required as much
material as an entire skirt and cambria
"extenders'' stuffed with down were worn
upon the shoulders. with the result that
ladies of fashion had to edge sidewise
through doors
There was one freak fashion distinctive
of the jackson period. These were the
campaign frocKs of Jackson calico"
worn by woman partisans at the time Of
his election. Great medallions bearing
his features were printed into this calico.
which was made up into aprons as well
as dresses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

During these years Dolly Madison, still
resident in Washington. had continued to
dictate the styles adopted by her feminine
contemporaries, but now a new queen Of
fashion came to rule over ofacialdom, and
this was none other than fair Dolly's own
cousin, the beautiful Angelica Van
Buren,. daughter of the wifeless President
Van Buren's eldest son. At Little Vans
New Year levee in the White House,
when a bride Of a few weeks, she made
her debut as mistress OF that mansion
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

den at Bellingham, Wash. proves that
the raising Of bulbs may be Carried on
successfully and cheap!y enough IN amer
efforts into the work the experiment Wlil
warrant its expense. Then the gardens
at Puget Sound. where the climate Is the
"Dutchest'' in America. may be pointed
out as the nucleus Of our tulip industry.
II the government succeeds only In rails
ing all Of its own tulips that VIII be felt
BY some gardeners In Holland. TOR this
year 5000 worth Of this onion-uke root
was imported by the Department OF AZ
riculture.
-.
In our own city the importations OF
tulips and other bulbs Is extensive. for
one Of our florists receives nearly q mil
lion Of these bulbs year. In the tall
thousands OF them are sold to individuals
who plant their spring gardens at that
time, but untold numbers Of the bulbs are
planted in the acreage at Anacostia,
which is the largest In this section OF
the country. There the nat wooden boxes
holding two hundred and fifty bulbs
placed 90 close together that they touch.
are buried in the fall foot under ground.
to sleep until they are taken to the green
house. where they are forced to bloom
during the late winter or early spring.
To one who purchases these blossoms
by the dozen the price seems high, but
when It IL reckoned that each tulip bulb
has had to pay its nursery bill In Hoa-
land, its passage across the sea, and ita
gardener In this country, this idea Of cost
changes. When 1t IL remembered that
each blossom represents one plant and
that thousands Of the blossoms are never
sold because Of imperfections or lack OF
demand the raising OF tulips and other
bulbs appears to be q venture.
Bulblets from the parent plant produce
tulips similar in color and shape to the
flower which grew on the parent plant,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

tee of Washington society women, headed
by Mrs. Julien James. whose chief as
sistant in collecting the wealth of apparel
to be displayed is Mrs. Rose Gouverneur
Hoes, great-granddaughter of President
Monroe. A hall of the old National Mu-
scum building, most of whose exhibits are
now being removed to the new structure,
has been assigned to the collection, which
will be under the direction Of DIR. Walter
Hough, curator of ethnology. The exhibit
will be officially known as the collection
of period costumes and will set forth, in
series of lifelike lay figures the vari-
Gus styles of apparel current in the vari-
Gus periods of American history, from
colonial times to the present day. OF
greatest interest will be series Of cos
tunes of American celebrities, including
the gowns worn by the wives of our Pres,
idents, the court dresses which have grac-
ed the consorts of our ambassadors and
ministers abroad, and the beautiful con-
fections which our noted beauties have
worn at official functions Of great his
toric Importance, such as those given in
honor of Lafayette, of the Prince OF
Wales or Of Louis Kossuth, when those
notables visited this country. Masculine
as well as feminine attire will be display
ed in the series, which will include the
typical dress of the civilian classes as
well as the special creations designed for
the grandees of oflcialdom. The evolu-
ton Of all manner of appurtenanceS to
dress will be shown-typical samples OF
the milliner's art of all American epochs.
as well as laces and lingerie, fans head
dresses and wigs. slippers and shoes,
hosiery and gloves. wells, cloaks, wraps.
muffs, furs, parasols. handkerchiefs and
whatever else has adorned the human
form in American history.
X i
One Of the most gorgeous features OF
the exhibit will be series Of inaugural
ball gowns Of our various Presidents
wives, and the nucleus of this collection
Is that of Mrs Taft. which she has just
contributed. Martha Washington will be
also represented by a fine old dress OF
embroidered muslin. the material for
which the Father Of his Country had i'm
ported especially from India, and which
was made up in this country under Mrs.
Washingtons personal direction. This,
with the original kerchief worn with II,
will be loaned to the collection by Miss
Mamie Randolph Heth of Washington,
The collection OF court gowns was started
by Mrs. John Hays Hammond, who con-
tributed her dress worn at the corona
tion Of George V: Mrs. John Hay, who
presented not only one Of her gowns, but
Ambassador Hays court cape, worn a,
st. James, and Mrs. Hoes, who added
James Monroe's court dress of green vel
vet. in which he was presented to Ma
poleon I.
The first figures in the chronological
order Of the series will represent in full
detail the characteristic garbs of the
stocks which settled America-the Puri-
tan, the Quaker. the Dutch PATRON. the
Huguenot. the English cavalier, the Span
lard. each with his good wife at his
side.
The colonial dame Of the eighteenth
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

century will be represented by a wealth
of original costumes and their accessories,
although in this period radical styles,
both in our colonies and in Europe.
changed so seldom that a young belle
could wear her grandmother's ball gown
with propriety and without ref1tting.
That was during the fifty-year reign of
the Louis XIV gown, with its plain. gath
cred, full skirt, it's ruffled sleeves and its
pointed waist. low in the neck. The
exhibit will show that the only stylish
rival of this form was the French Wat
teau dress. which, with its swelling skirts
the latter part of that century. The
figures displaying these quaint costumes
will be adorned by heads on which the
hair appears to be drawn too tightly
until, about ITO. the monstrous head
dress of Marie Antoinette's time carried
fashions in hairdressing to the opposite
extreme. From the first the French
have given us our feminine fashions,
while the English have dictated the sar-
torial styles Of our men.
Our colonial bellies will be shown to
have reigned in an age of gorgeous silks,
satins velvets, brocades and laces, made
up over lutte string" Innings. In the shops
there were no ready-made clothing for
women. Even underwear was fitted to
order by seamstress or modiste. 1t was
an age of silk and satin nightgowns and
SHIFTS" of flannel or Holland linen. Not
until the next century were our great
grandmothers to know what Lady Ches-
terfield was wont to call those comfort
able garments which we have borrowed
from the other sex and which all OF us
wear and none of US talk about.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

This collection representing the eight
zenith century will tell, as history does,
that elderly colonial danes did not darken
their garments as times ravages In
creased. Not to be eclipsed by their
daughters and granddaughter, they re-
galed themselves in the brightest blues.
pinks and saffrons. the gaudiest OF bro
cades They sailed forth in the most
youthful 'tpolonezes'' and trollopees,
hoops and panniers, the tightest OF stays
and stomachers. Indeed, 1t would ap-
pear that in those good old times waists
were terribly heightened by the tightest
of stays. Styles changed chiefly with
the shape of hoops, which sometimes
measured fifteen feet around. There were
times when bell hoops. fan hoops or
pocket hoops were the rage. Stays were
first low, then high, and cherry color
seems to have once been the favorlte
tint of these deformers. Sometimes they
were embroidered and worn outside gar
ments which I am told to call "chemi-
settes." Whole dresses of those days are
often embroidered with flowers and just
before our revolution it was the fashion
for our bellies to wear. over their frocks,
red cloaks which they called their car
dinals.''
It is proposed to begin with the birth
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07
) SHOWING 5|
GOWN AND FAN 4-&
Of MARTHA [OD
WASHINGTON SeoNorsvo.u

lace berthas. made fashionable because
of their adoption by Miss Lane. were
worn almost universally" Some of the
most exquisite costumes handed down
from this period were worn at the func-
tions given in honor OF the Prince OF
Wales Qater Edward VID when Miss
Lane was his hostess at the White House.
American hoops were at their largest
at the time Of the princes visit In q
photograph of Miss Lane she Is said to
be adorned by frock which she wore
In his royal highness' honor. So. at
least. / am told by a nephew and the
successor Of Brady, the great photogra-
pher at that time. who took the photo
graph. ~
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

Mrs. Lincolns first inaugural gown
was made before the hoop skirt COM
menced to decline. Indeed, this monstrous
style did not commence to decline until
the year Of Lincoln's passing
There was one distinctive style OF the
civil war period. relics of which have been
saved by some old southern families.
This was fashion adopted by many
Confederate bellies who economical in
dress in order to pay for munitions OF
war needed by their brothers and fathers
at the front. The most representative
styles of this gown were of unbleached
muslin, made in Macon, Ga. and the but
tons were of gourd seeds. dyed crimson.
And with these frocks were worn home
made alpine hats.
This interesting exhibit will further
during Johnson's administration. and that
''frock dresses then became the vogue.
These creations were made up in somber
shades.
But stepping next to the cases display
ing the costumes of the Grant period you
will see that our mothers enjoyed only
two years OF freedom until another I'M
slightly impediment was thrust upon
them. This was the absurd dress i'm
proven" or hustle" Mrs. Grant is shown
in this style by the accompanying photo
graph which Brady took while She was
mistress of the White House. Black silk
dresses were then the prevailing style for
the French, In national mourning, for,
their losses during the siege of Paris had
decreed that the remainder OF the fashion.
able world should mourn with her, which It
did, willingly, but from motives OF vanity
rather than Of grief. I,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

Gowns of our latter day bellies, metrons
series will tell the story Of how the hustle
swelled to its most monstrous enormity
during the last days OF the Grant period.
then declined, but rose again, not to cob.
lapse entirely until the first reign OF Mrs.
Cleveland: OF the coming OF the princess
gown" during the second Grant admins
tration: Of the introduction Of jerseys and
our first hobble skirts, during the period
of the Hayeses; of the second dynasty Of
throughout the Harrison and the second
Cleveland regimes; of the advent OF the
tailormade dress during this same period
of the Tightening of sleeves and skirts
during the Mckinley days: OF the return
of the princess gown and the reign OF
"Alice blue" under the Roosevelts, and
of the fad for Helen pink in honor OF
the daughter of President Taft, with
whose administration came the reintro-
duction of the beautiful empire or di-
rectoire' fashions.
Contributors to this our first national:
costume display are not required to part
with their treasures and heirlooms for
ever. They need merely lend them to
Uncle Sam. and in so doing they will be
given, in exchange, the assurance that
they will be better protected against
moth, mildew. mouse. dust or robber than
they could be elsewhere in the land. In
their cases. where they will display the
names of their donors or lenders, upon
neatly printed labels, they will be guard
ed by watchmen and protected by an in.
genious system OF automatic alarms.
Copyright 1912. by John Elfrett watkinsl
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-07

BY JOHN ELFRETH WATKINS.
The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1912-08-08
Bound Over For Forgery.

Arthur Guy, colored, was bound over
to the grand jury Thursday by Mayor
wilkins, charged with forgery. His
bond was fixed at $500, which he failed
to give and is now confined in the
county jail.
Guy gave A. e. Small, proprietor Of
the Star Bakery, check for s24.50
made payable to himself and signed
by II. G. Mountz, who lives south Of
town. Guy owed Small $40 which was
deducted from the check, Small giving
Guy s14.50in return.
/, When Small deposited the check at
the bank 1t was claimed that 1t had
been raised from $3.50 to s24.5O.
, Guy at the hearing before the Mayor
Headed not guilty.
The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1912-08-08
Bread boxes soc to sl.5O at Tener's
The Old Way.

One of our exchanges truthfully says
that when pa was young, people who
had colds soaked their feet in hot
water and took few draughts Of cat
nip tea and got we'll. Now they have
lagrippe, take quinine and feel sick all
summer. Then they had sore throat,
wrapped piece Of bacon In an old
wool stocking, tied 1t around the neck
at night, and went to work the next
day. Now they have tonsilitis, sur
gical operation, and two weeks in the
hospital. Then they had stomach
trouble and took castor oil and recov-
cred. Now they have appendicitis, a
week In the hospital, and six feet due
east and west and six feet perpendicu-
lar. Then they went toa restaurant
now they 60 to cafe Then they broke
a leg now they fracture limb. Peo-
pie went crazy now they have brain
storms-or are born crazy, we don't
know which. Politicians then paid
good hard cash for support now they
send government garden seed instead.
Yes, times have changed and we all
change with the times. That's prog
ress.
The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1912-08-08
Conference Camp Meeting.

The annual conference OF the NJ. Z.
Church will be held on their beautiful
grounds at Sabina, August % to Sept
ember l, and splendid program has
been arranged. While every day will
witness a good program there will be
four days deserving special mention.
Music Day is on Aug. %, and includes
concert by Neddermeyer's Band and
Euclid Male Quartette. Prof. D. Lee
Fitzpatrick lectures on the 25th and
2Sth, the latter, Young Peoples Day,
also bringing the Jones Concert Co.
September is the closing day and will
have special program Of much excel
lence. Prof. Ross Fl. Stover, as Musi-
cal Director, will be present through
out the meeting. Ample hotel and
livery accommodations on the grounds
at low rates. A good restaurant will
be operated. Season tickets II pur-
chased prior to August 20, soc; after
that date 60c. Single admission on
Music Day, Young Peoples Day and
10c; children under 10. free.
-
The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1912-08-08
BARRETT.

Auks " lOlSs
Mrs. G. A. Stinson and two sons
Lacy and Allan, Of Springfield, who
have been visiting at the home oi
Mrs. Emma Bussie, returned home
last week.
Mrs. VIM. Ludwick, of East Dan
vile, visited her parents, w. E. Chris
man and wife, two days last week.
Those who have recently been visit
Ing at the home of Norman Overman
and wife are as follows: Homer Nc
Keehan, wife and daughter, of Cleve
land; Elgar Barrere, Of Circleville;
Mrs. Emily Foraker, of New York
City, and Vernon Overman, of Cincin-
natl.
Mrs. Oscar Skeen and three sons, OF
Columbus, who have been visiting at
the home Of Mrs. Sally Skeen, re-
turned home last week. Two Of the
sons will remain for the summer.
Mrs. Alec Webb is visiting her
daughter, Mrs. Charles Post.
Miss Chloe Brown, of Hillsboro, is
visiting Miss Mary Stevens.
W. W. Wolfe and family were
guests at the home Of George Parshal
last Thursday.
Helen and Vernon Overman gave q
croquet party recently.
Mrs. Fred Ulen, after an extended
visit with her parents here, has re-
turned To her home In Wambon, Pa
Mrs. John Templin and son, Floyd
OF Blanchester, are visiting her sister
Mrs. @. II. Stevens.
j. s. Lovett and family entertained
John Duflield and wife, Miss Nellie
Cochran, of Hillsboro, and Miss Grace
Chrisman Sunday.
A little girls hat was found on Sun
day, July 2S, on the pike near the Mrs
Boatman farm. III the owner wishes
TO receive the hat call at the home ol
Mrs. Emma Bussie.
Mrs. Emma Bussie is very Ill with
blood poisoning.
Rev. Frank Miner and w. w
Wolfe and family took dinner at the
home OF S, J. Ross Sunday.
Mrs. John Morrow is visiting hel
niece, Miss Nellie Stetbem, Of Mar
Shall.