Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-26


Of the green velvet aSainst the black
charmeuse at the back. Another ''oon-
TRASHY gown, by Beer, has q white
charmeuse coat to tho knees, opening
over q pesticpat Of shadow lace nounces.
The front edges Of the coat roll back and
show . facing of black satin. and at the
back these black satin coat tails are
knotted together and lifted q bit above
the trailing petucoat Of lace. And here is
the sharp touch Of color: over the right
knee-just where tho coat begins to roll
back and show its black reverse
side-are two great. glowing American
beauty roses, put there by q stroke OF the
French genius that never makes a mis-
white satin coat, BY q black velvet belt
clasped in front with q rhinestone
buckle. and above the belt the coat is
rounded out in deep decolletage. and a
Each Of the French coutnriers has
brought out a Dolly Warden lowered
gown, and though differing in particu-
lars, all these gowns are alike in one
respectable pannier. A Dolly Warden
costume without a pannier would be
Hamlet" with Hamlet left out, or some
thing equally as disappointing. and. in
deed. the pannier. quite az much as the
worthy Of its name. Pompadour silks
and lowered taffetas in new and charm
ing patterns have appeared like magic
in the shops to make these Dolly Warden
gowns, and as q quantity OF the silk Is
required for the draped panniers, the folk
who have been crying out against the
small amount of material necessary now
adays should cheer up. BY the way. has
anybody heard Of a tailor-during this
era Of narrow skirts and short coats
who has offered to make up suit for
less than his regular price because Of the
small amount of material required? But.
of course. this has nothing to do with
evening frocks, so back to Dolly Warden
pannierS!
A very dainty costume Of this sort, by
Francis. is illustrated. The bodice and
pannierS are in one. and suggest the old
fashioned sacque, worn over a stomacher
and petticoat during the eighteenth CEN
fury. The quaint little gown is made OF
in pastel tints on a white ground, and
the pannier drapery Is subdued to slender
lines. The sleeves and f1chu Of lace and
net make the gown very eummery, ana
the color scheme Is emphasized by q clus-
ter of pale mauve roses at the corsage.
with this Dolly Warden gown are worn.
very properly. high-heeled colonial slip
pers and the picture hat OF leghorn Is
faced with wistaria taffeta and trimmed
with white plumes and black Veltet
StreamerS dTtfSlicaHy niio'eou ~ "
brim.
While panniers are made to continue
into trains sashes by the same token De-
come coat tails. A coat tail sash reach-
ing to the bottom of the skirt Is SHOWN In
a Cheruit evening gown OF lace nounclns.
The lace forms a pannier drapery over
petticoat also Of lace, and there Is de-
ughtful little coat of cerise chiffon over
the bodice and shoulder. At the back this
bodice extends downward in a coat tall
or one might say that the sash of cerise
chiffon fell over the skirt in coat-tall ef.
feet At any rate. the sash coat tan
reaches to the floor over the. lace pann1er
drapery, and a big. soft bow OF taneta
holds sash end and lace drapery against
the narrow skirt. Rhinestone embroidery
on the cerise coat and SASH, ana idrse
rhinestone bowknot across the pack OF
the waist Inc make this cerise ana wnlte
trimming la a perfect craze in Paris, ana
the snarkling, thread-like lines Of fiery
rhinestones. edging delicate cnlHoh anu
lace draperies are wonderfully eHectiVe.
The rhinestone band trimming Is 49,
ciously expensive-one must pay almost
two dollars yard for even narrow
hand of the stones, set in im1tauon siiVeI'
and unless the trimming is handled with
utmost care the rhinestones crop Out
and the trimming Is utteris sp e. he
Chiffon and lace bodices appear 10 oe
held IN over the shoulder with strings OF
rhinestones and for some reason OF QUIZ,
even when the flesh Is we'll covered WIN
fabric, the effect seems to pc eAlrens,s
dacolIete. Some of the new evening
hodices are outrageous. They may pass
IN paris. where modesty and conserVa-
tive taste are not held in the same re-
card "a over here, but one marveis una
a a
starn old Puritan settlers In some cases
can wear such effects. Yet the extreme
decolletaxe is the fashion. and the mooest-
Iy cut bodice, with only a small squaIe
or v of throat showing, reai1S ,t tot ths limit
seems to have been reached IN 'French
evening gown worn at the Comedie Fran
cais recently-and in the audience .oo'
This gown had trailing sKiri OF nvs
coiored chiffon over pale pink charmeuse:
and above the high waist line bodice OF
nearl beads sewn on silver net. ms
hodice was worn directly over the skin'
and strings Of pearls held 1t over tne
shoulders
Never were pearls more in favor than
thew are now and 1t il not necessary to
own a fortune in real pearls to be In
the mode. Handsome strings OF imita.
ton pearls are worn by many women VINO
can well afford the real sort, and when
the imitation is clever 1t Is almost I'M
possible to tell the difference-except by
holding the pearls in the hand and test
ing the weight. Drecoll is using pearls
a great deal this season, in trimming
effects, and some superb Drecoll evening
gowns have net tunics covered with loop
ed strings of small pearls, in barbarfc,
but beautiful, effect. Pearl fringes and