New-York tribune., 1912-04-14
Panniers of the Past Rejected
by Women of To-Day

loaded with an amount OF underclothing
which now seems incredible.
With the low cut corsets OF to-day-a cut
which women will be slow to relnquish-
the greatest problem is the bust supporter
(soutien gorge). Many sorts are offered In
the shops, tempting In their beauty and
In their apparent usefulness, but while a
slender person may be quite content with
many of the models women Of full figures
have decided. after long experience, that
the best garment Of this sort is fitted
corsage worn over the corset 1t may be
as beautiful as one pleases. Strong white
linen embroidered in a raised design is
practical; the same may be said OF open
English embroidery or OF fine batiste
strengthened with allover tucking. 1t
should close In front, the useful buttons
hidden under lace frill, and the neck may
be high or low without disturbing the main
purpose OF It. Tiny sleeves are sometimes
added, useful to conceal sleeve shields In
this quite perfect littls garment bones are
unnecessary. and so II may be sent to the
laundry with impunity.
In spite Of the popularity OF the one-piece
dress II is impossible to get away from
blouses. There is fitness about them
for ordinary wear; the variety of them Is
endless, and they hold always a sugges-
tion Of freshness that Is irresistible. For
this last quality the lingerie blouse cannot
be excelled, yet marquisette is in high
favor. II keeps It's freshness longer; It Is
less expensive In its first cost, and the
laundry bills for II are less. A coarse
raised embroidery. done with colored wash
abls silks, is extremely decorative on this
material. The embroidery must be in har-
mony with the skirt 1t accompanies.
charming finish to an all-white marquisette
blouse Is pleated collarette of black NOUS
seline de sole and sleeve frils to match.
With the addition Of a black sash, hang
ing uneven ends, these little accessories
turn an ordinary costume OF white serge
into an elegant toilet. especially II the
hat and parasol be we'll chosen. A new
blouse OF white satin Is finished with black
neck and sleeve frills, and to them Is
added a basque composed Of six-inch
deep pleated black frill The belt which
separates II from the blouse is of colored
patent leather.
The taste for things Directore has re-
suited In a blouse finished with high
Drectoire collar. From each side of the
open front hang long Jabots edged with
frills, adjusted by being tucked inside the
belt. The "Cyrano' collar is a prettier
finish to blouse. Left unbuttoned in front
It leaves the favorite V-shaped opening so
comfortable in warm weather.
For serviceable tramping and travelling
costumes smart blouses are made OF coarse
colored linens decorated harmoniously with
little colored embroidery or with colored
stitching and buttons; and white linens,
striped widely with the color Of the cos
tune, are turned into desirable blouses for
common use. All these are closed in front.
and the correct finish is a starched linen
collar. a pleat in the middle OF the back.
side pleat on each side of the stud band.
sleeves set plain into a wide armhole and
then gathered into a straight wristband
and a narrow adjustable belt are other
smart details.
Smart French women long ago discarded
pink and blue ribbons in their underwear
for either white or black The last named
may have rather a startling sound. but
with the transparent dress corsage II seems
only a part OF It's decoration. Velvet ribbon,
not satin, is used for this purpose; baby
ribbon supplies the running strings. while
the decorative bows are OF wider width
from one to two inches. NJ. A. F.