The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1912-01-22

Tho most Interesting thing abou,
the new spring millinery is its diver
sity. There seems to be no set style,
no hard and fast type by which on,
must abide. to be in the fashion
Crowns are Highland they are low
Brims are drooping-and they cur
upward. Trimmings rear aloft IL
piquant n daring effects-and the,
droop downward and touch the shoul'
der. The main thing to be consider
ed. in all this diversity Of type is be-
c~olningness and 1t will be a hyper
critical woman-or a hopelessl,
homely one-who cannot, this spring
find a hat that exactly suits her taste
and type.
Prune- Coiored Hemp.
Hemp seems 10 be the favoritt
straw with! the smart milliners = and
at least t~hree-fourths of the high.
priced and exclusive models are bull
of hemp: or of hemp combined with
some coarser and heavier straw. A
charming Paris hats of the early sea
son. is a Lewis hat of ~prune-colored
hemp with a dashing. rolled back
brim of coarse straw braid in a slight
ly paler prune shade. On top Of the
crown are five big velvet roses in q
splendid. deep Burgundy red, and
each rose is fastened to a long stem
SO that the flowers CULVER and sway
AS the head moves with all the fas-
cinatton of movement that makes the
feathery aigrette trimming sc beau
tiful.
Prune. by the way, is the color on
which Madame Mode has set her par
ticular fancy this season. and with the
deep prune. raisin and grape shades
are combined soft creams, rich bur-
Sundy reds and Il very dark navy blue.
Frune n navy in combination are
shown in another French hat. The
shape is of fine milan in nav blue
and at either side of the high crow
are splashtng big velvet bows that are
knotted in the new circular pin
ed to the row in such manner that
the upper edges meet and form a
penthouse or peaked effect. One of
these pinwheels is in the favorite
prune color and the other is--Ameri-
can Beauty shade. Who but a French
milliner would dream Of combining
prune, American Beauty and blue
and accomplish with the combination
an effect of unparalleled smarteness?
Hats Show the ''Wlite Feather"
But the real feature of spring mill
iIiSIS 10 Iic TIdlCOiS 4. iSdlIlcI. LII.
deed. every other hat nov shows the
white feather" in a bold and I'M
ashamed way. These Francois 1.
feathers--or Rembrandt feathers as
they are sometimes called, since this
trimming belongs to the time Of REM
brandt, Francois I. of France and
Henry VIII. of lGngland--slant back
iauntily from the exact center of the
front of the hat. and the crown of
the hat they accompany must have
something Of the soft Tam effect of
These soft crowns are made of velvet,
of taffeta in the new changeable or
chameleon color effects. OF lace. of
hemp. or of straw braids of flexible
quality. And. sometimes the under
side of the big Tam crown is of a
darker material. the two fabrics be-
inc joined with a corded piping. These.
Tam crowns arc usually set within
rolling brims of straw, and a few
models have brin1s made of the Same
fabric as the crown-as. for Instance,
the attractive models by Marie Crozet,
which is built throughout of chamel-
con taffeta. in green and blue and
which has a Francois 1. feather in
shades of green and blue to match
Taffeta Used-lin Tlrban Style.
Another faffeth hat by Virot is in
East Indian turhan style: that is, the
soft folds of lustrous silk are swath-
ed round and rounda high crown,
tapping across each other in front.
There is no brin on this toque, but
at the top of the silk swathing is a
puffed crown-top of the taffeta-
which is in the very darkest possible
shade of navy blue. the shade called
crows wing because of the blue
black lights in it. Directly in the