Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1912-06-22
FANCY FADS and FAVORIIE fashions
Special to The Tribune.

Special to The Tribune.
NEW YORK. June 22.-This seas.
on's vogue Of separate and contrast
ing coats materially simplifies the
problem of the summer wardrobe. 1t
also permits the use of thin and
sheer skirt or frock which would not
tailor well in a coat and yet is ad-
mirably comfortable and drapable for
skirt or frock. The average light
weight silk is hard to handle in
coat unless one adopts one of the odd
and fanciful little models which. while
charming for dressy wear. do not look
we'll with a simple street costume.
But with a lightweight cloth or silk
with somebody for coat material the
Simplest and lightest of stuffs may be
used for skirt or one:piece frock.
A very fine. supple, light broadcoth
is we'll liked for such coats, and with
this anything from charmeuse to chit
fon is in order for skirt material. In
color the two may match, but con-
trast ia smarter and there is in Paris
a decided liking for light coat with
a darker skirt, which is a reversal of
the traditional order of things. White.
both in cloth and in such silks as
charmeuse, drop de sole. etc., Is par
ticularly favored and worn over skirts
of black or color. One of the best
looking models of this class had
coat of chalk white broadcloth. fine
and supple as satin and very simply
tailored. though of extremely chic
lines This topped skirt of soft blue
charmeuse, dark but not dull, which
fell straight and full in the back, and
in front and sides showed few soft
drapery lines near the bottom. Only
fluffy tulle and lace frills showed be-
tween the open coat fronts, but there
was presumably a simple bodice of
the charmeuse.
Dark or bright coats over lighter
skirts are legion, and while the idea
of the contrasting coat of this sort
has been taken up by the manufac-
turers and developed in innumerable
cheap forms, the well made coat with
the novel details retains its distinct
ion and has an air entirely different
from that of the cheap version. Gen.
orally speaking. the best of these
coats are very simple as to finish, re-
lying upon line and material for their
cachet. The taffeta models almost in
variably have lines of corded shir-
ring in the silk for trimming, but
the full, fussy models IN taffeta are
not usually so effective as those simp-
Ter of line. One of the taffeta coat
models shown in one of the fashion
able shops clearly showed the effect
iveness Of simplicity and careful tai.
loring.
The short coat of black satin, simp.
ly trimmed with buttons, folds and
loops of the satin and lined through
out with white chiffon cloth or thin
nest crepe which faces the rolled col.
lar is perhaps the most useful of all
the many versions of the revived
short separate coat. The other soft
silks, plain, corded, MORE, cAangeable,
plain tone, etc. are also pressed into
coat service and among the new i'm
portations one finds some youthful
looking and very chic models in Nor
folk and Russian lines.
One Of the latest arrivals in change
able silks is the Jewel silk" It Is
OF about the same weight as taffeta
but is woven with an almost imper-
ceptible cord line and is more supple
than taffeta. 1t is apparently IN
crusAable and it's changeable color
ings are very lovely the designers
having attempted to reproduce the
shades in familiar jewels-opal, tur-
quois, sapphire, tourmaline, etc.
The lingerie blouse, more or less
discredited among fashionable folk
for a year or two, seems to be coming
into its own again. Directoire collars
of the high turn down kind, leaving