The chronicle=news., 1912-11-22

seen In the shops and fashionable"
dressmuking establishments are of
the dircctoire period. The short
wasted coat. with its deep collar and
broad lap.ls. the frllls OF lace adorn-
ling the trent and sleeves. the wide
sash knOttcd at the side. the slnshcd
up skirt and the smart turned-up hat.
with It's st!ff coEadc-all have been
revived TO marked eNrcn, In the
modes OF the present season.
The tall woman shoild revcl In
this fact. for she appears AZ her best
when atiircd in digct .oiyc gown,
IGrac. and dignity are contributed by
these fashions. MATERIAL are seen
II r'ie!r best when used to fashion an
artistic costume OF this period.
Not every one can afford frocSs
| 1f he new extremely fashionable
silk velvet. 50 Velvcteen WAS manu-
featured as cheaper substitute. II
Is lovely. and kiscs almost the sam"
effect as SILK vcIyct when mndc mp.
volvot.cn and corduroy are used to
fafh.o many smart frocks for street
wear.
Plain co!ors are more frequently
used for the vclv,t teen models. They
are effectively trimmed with fur.
metallic lRccF. Persian or tapestry
embroidery Nc'vcte.n does not adapt
Itself 30 successfully TO drnplng ms
do the softer vclvcts. so the skirts
are usually Plain or with ploatci In
l E,, Ia, -
fcc;s. with guimp.s OF lace or chif-
fon. CorduIoys In the soit-iinish.d
qualities ATE extensively used. Frocks
and coat suits are developed from
thIs material and seem to find u
ready sale.
| Narrow bands cf .rm!ne. mol" and
other shori-halT.d furs ar. used on
the collars. sleeves and In trimming
arrangements on the fronts Of dr.ssy
waists. Fur bands are used In some
cases In tn" upper section OF the
sleeve To hold the extra fullness or
drapery IN place. or In simple ar
Management to produce trimming cf-
feet. Other styles show the f;r
bands nj the edge OF the sleeve The
collar trimming usually takes the
form OF an edge around the Robes
pierre collar or the flat dircctol.c
collar which extends over the shoul-
deTs.
Strictly tailored waists have the
characteristics OF the mannish skirts
In the high. soft. turnover collars
aud stuffs and wel;cd seams. WASH
able orcpes de chine. heavy China
silks and madras have narrow coiorcd
stripes ON white groundwork. such
as brown. Dltch and navy blue. Wis
tarIa purple and amber. Buttons OF
colored glass or amber competition
are very effectively used for the front
pieat closing when they match the
lstrlpe OF the silk. White pearl bu:-
tons are also used.
Soft-finishcd taffctns. mcssa.ires
and satins arc usually o. the samc
color rs the coat suit. as well as
black. Many o; theEc models are
plain. but both striped and plated
patterns ale also seen. The ground
work OF Scotch plaids IL usually blue.
brown. green or black. with n plaid
cd design In vivid shades OF red.
green. blue or yellow. The siripcs
on these dark waists are in shades OF
red. purple. tnupc. yellow and king
blue.
Indications point to an increasing
use OF various flounce effects. One
of the favored styles for developing
the flouncc skirt IL the use OF n
slightly gathered skirt yoke in con-
junction with two 2I-inch fuources.
Some OF these gowns have the flounc-
cs in velvet. plush. lace, net, char
mcuse or chiffon. The threc-piece
skirt has scant flounces about IS
outline, the center :ro:t being short
cr than the lack measurement
These flounces are not held in as
straight line as formerly.
Flounccs that border on the cir
cular effect and form riple are
making their appearance. but they
are scant and eli gnclosely to the
figure. Accordion plaits are very
good for these f!ounccs. as they re-
quire no trimming. which would ac-
ccntuatc the broken lines, and they
fit so snuglv to the figure that ,he
straight effects are closely adhered
to.
The new. rolling collars are. on
the whole. more becoming than those
on the Dutch order. Few women can
wear successfully the collar line fol-
ling the base Of the throat. but the
collar that rolls away softly. leaving
a V shaped opening in front is quite
generally becoming.
All of the collars in this class.
Robesr icrre, Roi de Rome. Dauphin
etc, have quickly gained popularity
and countless changes have been
rurg upon them. In some forms the