New-York tribune., 1912-03-17
Fashion in Reactionary Mood
Radical Changes Foreshadowed

in favor the coming season. The sim
pIiclty Of il, its grace and the ease with
which its ornamentation may be varied
are all strong points in its favor. the
blouse corsage IS loosely fitted and the
sleeves are long, buttoned close at the
wrists. but shaping comfortable fulness
at the elbows. The neck finished round
and collarless, is extremely practical, as a
separate guimp can be worn. so that per
feet freshness IS always possible-a great
comfort in itself The touch Of genius that
lifts these simple gowns into a realm un-
attalnable by clumsy hands is shown In
the cravat and in the belt or sash.
The recent newspaper discussion-a dis
cussion by no means ended-On the com
ing modes clearly shows the great inhu-
ence the leading women on the French
stage exercise over them, and their de-
cision that a change is needed seems TO
have brought every one into line with
them Interviews with several OF the most
important Of the men dressmakers show Il
difference OF opinion as to how this change
is 10 be brought about, but, however they
differ in degree. all admit the time has
come for a change and that the fate or
the tight Clinging skirt Is sealed. II IL
even possible We shall again revert 10
lingerie undergarments. The gowns dis
PLAYED a all the leading houses during
the opening weeks showed a strong reac-
tionary tendency: not all TO the same ex-
tent, for while some Of the great dress-
makers indorse panniers. others declare
they will have none OF them. 1t is. in fact,
q period Of transition, and the woman
who can afford to have only few gowns
a season had best make haste slowly until
the atmosphere has cleared
Among the mass Of contradictions few
things remain clear. Skirts are Of the
ample fulness comfort and grace demand,
and overskirts and simple draperies are in
order when they are becoming The new
materials, ali distinguished by extreme
softness, easily lend themselves to dra-
perles that are panniers only in name. Tn
doubtedlv hounced skirts Will be one Of
the leading modes for the summer, but
these hounces. made OF the softest OF trans
narencies and of fine lace, add little to
the real bulk or to the appearance OF st.
Lace dounced undersklrts. with over
dresses and tunics Of iiowered voiles and
Indian muslins. are charming. These bor-
dered muslins are turned into three
dounced skirts, and the bOrdered portion
serves for the sleeves and for d ichu dra-
merry The tulles, nets and mousseline de
sole used so long for coverings TO other
materials. are now quite out or commits
sion. Lingerie gowns have lost vogue
also Their place in modish wardrobe is
6led by the enchanting cotton voiles. fine
crepes and the popular marduisette. Cot
ton fringes, lace tntre-deux and embroid-
arv done on the material will be their
adornment Lace and lingerie toilets had
become so vulgarized by the use OF
cbeap. coarse, machine embroideries and
cbeaner. coarser lace that exclusive WON
On abandoned this easy manner OF adorn-
ment long ago. Now 1t is discarded even
by the midinette.
The changeable tanetas are the triumph
of the season. They enter into the com
position of every sort of toilette devoted
70 every hour OF the day. For separate
coats this silk is used 10 an astonishing
degree. Jaunty little silk coats cut away
to a deep point at the back are pretty
enough worn with little dEsssta q White