New-York tribune., 1912-04-14
Low.Hanging Side Draperies
Replace Bouffancies First
Presented.

Paris, ApTll Z.
As Is generally the case, the horse snow
onened under weather conditions so dull
and depressing that no one cared 10 risA
waiting her newest spring costume; on
a later day the dress display atoned for
the first disappointment, for DO not the
majority of women attend this spring func-
ton to admire and TO criticise new sownsH
| Fit and chic were several tailored costumes
of black silk, trimmed with pleated fr,ils'
with short belted coats, their skirts faring
smartly and rounding away from the front
waist line. The newest frills are made
from strips Of silk torn on the thread and
ravelled into an inch-wide fringe; thickly
pleated, they have a mossy effect that s
extremely pretty. The narrow oeits Oh
shining black or oolored leather show more
elaborate fastenings than those OF last sea-
son The front of one Of these little oelteo
coats slanted from the belt to the shoulder
open,ng over a little waistcoat OF deep
French blue satin. Three little Set buttons
showed. as It Tapped diagonally at the top;
the rest Of the closing Yves hidden under
the side edge. A large Louis XIII collar,
with cuffs 10 match of white embroidered
linen. finished the neck and sleeves. With
these black silk costumes, black or white
hats ara worn. while color was supplied In
the parasol.
The Louis XIII collar leaves the throat
quite bare. Indeed all women have quickly
discarded the tall. thick ruffs that finished
the neck Of the first spring gowns offered
at several of the big houses. though these
same ruffs. and larger ones are retained
for street wear. For coats finished with
fat collar and wide, fat revers the "Cy-
rano" collar, made OF plain white linen, is
extremely smart. II is generally attached
10 the blouse, or corssge. worn under the
coat.
Long wraps and coats OF taffetas, in all
colors. were in abundance. and IL Is In
these the pleated, shirred and frinsed frills
and puffings are shown to great advantage.
Long, sleeveless wraps. which appear to be
made without a single seam, are delightful
with this od-fashioned trimming. special
form OF wrap is evidently made from one
breadth OF wide silk; clasping the figure
closely, IT closes invisibly in front and the
sole fitting required is achieved on the
shoulders. where the surplus material is
cut away under Tapped seam. Sits cut
in the sides TO accommodate the arms are
covered with trimming. Long. straight silk
coats were worn also. with enormously fun
sleeves drawn into wide. shirred bands,
easily drawn on and of when desired.
charming not too obvious youthfulness
marks all the gowning OF the moment.
With the return Of the long waist line and
the tight belt. that woman is happy who
has preserved her slender waist. With this
new betting the hips are allowed TO round
ever so little. Is It the thin edge Of the
wedge? The unwillingness TO enlarge the
hips by reducing the waist is seen In the
refusal TO accept the panniers as first pre-
sented. and women content themselves with
low. hanging side drape1es. that are called
by that name. The paniiers OF the past
held an air Of stateliness quite incompat-
ible with the manners and habits OF the
women Of to-day. The new woman Is not
like the old-and. naturally, she must gown
herself differently: also she puts her gown
on in a different manner: she steps into II,
instead OF passing hcr head through the
opening. as was the custom when We were