davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-09-01
DireCtOre NeCkWear in Hundred Variations Eton Byron
Robspierre and Richeleu Collars Of Silk, Lace and
Linen Transparent Stocks That Fit
With Exquisite NiCety

shoulders and froths down her
coat front, you are ready to cast q
cursory glance at suit hat and minor
accessories. But If the new neckwear
is conspicuous and exaggerated. 1t Is un-
deniably picturesque; and in most cases
it is enchahtingly becoming as well.
One cannot help specializing. however.
what the fall harvest in sore throats.
tonsilitis and bronchitis will be for the
doctors with all these fashionable new
collars that leave the neck and part OF
the chest exposed to searching fall
breezes. The new neckwear makes up
in part by being enormously high at the
back, some Of the more exaggerated COL
lars reaching quite to the ears and COW
ering the hair at the nape Of the neck.
In front. the collar may run down in a
" of any depth. from just below the
throat to half way to the waist line: The
very deep v Is usually filled in with a
modest tucker of net or lace. transparent
enough, however. to reveal the thinly
covered chest, painfully suggestive OF
pneumonia and kindred ills.
Though all these new directoire collars
Evening star., 1912-09-01
OUTDOOR LUNCHEONS

eggs with meat add to the yolks half tn.
quantity Of finely chopped ham or the
same quantity Of finely chopped chicken
Cream or melted butter may be used in.
stead Of mayonnaise. Salt, pepper, lemor
Juice and cayenne are used for season.
ing.
Have a big sheet Of heavy brown pape,
folded to fit the top OF the lunch basket
and 1t will also serve as q tablecloth. A
supply Of paper napkins is better thar
taking linen ones. A few wooden plates
some drinking cups. q few knives. forks
and spoons and little pepper and sal,
shakers will set the table sufficiently
FIJI in the chicks Of the basket with bot
ties Of olives. pickles. q box OF sardines
and two or three boxes Of crackers.
A frequent picnic meal on the lawn fur.
nishes relief to the housekeeper and en-
joyment to the family. A luncheon con-
sisting OF meat. nut, cheese or salad
sandwiches. deviled eggs. fried chicken
iced tea, coffee or milk, or anything else
that ones fancy may suggest and pocket.
book afford. may be prepared in the
morning and the housewife free Of cares
In the afternoon. can partake Of the sup
per in a true holiday spirit. Such a holi-
day may be easily arranged by the busiest
woman.
Evening star., 1912-09-01
A Nuiance
in Skirted BIouseS

verely across the figure, but gay little
draped affairs which cross I'm surpncs
fashion at the front and are carried
around to fasten at the back-something
as one fastens brassiere. These de-
lightful vests are made of soft plaid and
fowered silks and sometimes plain silk
| is introduced along the surpliced front
edges by way of variety. One OF these
dainty cassocks-as they are called In
Paris--was displayed I'm a 5th avenue tea
| room the other afternoon. on the remov-
Ing of smart cutaway coat The coat
suit was OF navy serge and the cassoclS
vest was of shot ciel and lilac taneta-
| 1t had large armholes, corded and edged
with tiny pleated frills of the silk. and
| the surpliced fronts were turned back In
broad revers. also edged with the cord
| ing ana pleating. The surplice ends were
draped around to the back, where they
| were tied I'm loose bow against the
waist line. This pretty cassock was worn
with cutaway serge coat and Tapped
! skirt having panel pleated sides. Boots
| of patent leather with Louis heels had
buttoned tops of blue cloth to match the
| suit.
| All sorts OF coquettish neck frills have
peeped out at the approach of fail.
| Malne frills-or ruches-are in special de-
mand two pleatines In harnoniZne color
often producing a charming color effect
| Some of these maline pleatings NJ
the front to show the throat, lns,e J pf
ribbon ties, wide silk braid with ia selt.d
| ends adds a new note.
The ostrich and marabou hoas always
look specially ttTactiye a the b. tnHing <
of cool weather. This season ma oew
and fetching styles. some including muifs
are ready for fall.
Evening star., 1912-09-01

absolutely "all white" One bit OF black
jewelry, one morsel OF black ribbon
even a black boot-will render 1t immedi-
ately half mourning. or second mourn
ing, rather than first or deep mourning.
as 1t is intended to be. This picturesque
and agreeable white mourning may be
worn anywhere in summer time and In
doors In winter time. 1t goes without
saying that the conventional woman
would not make bizarre spectacle OF
herself by walking down a city street IN
midwinter clad from head to foot in
snowy white; nor would she enter a res
Ia urant SO clad when all the women
about her were garmented in dark tai
lored costumes and furs. In the evening
the white costume would4not be as con-
spicuous-but then the woman In deep
mourning is not apt to frequent the res
taurants during the gay evening hours.
In the house, however, white mourning
Is charming and is not only more becom-
ing and dainty than the somber and de-
pressing black, worn for the sake OF
Evening star., 1912-09-01

by q very young woman for luncheon or
afternon tea, the white frock being COW
cred with a long white coat for the Jour-
ney In Limousine or taxicab. The frock
mings of white crepe and hand scallop-
ing. The hat Of dull white silk is trim
med with white nlacs and white leaves
and the white mesh veil with three dull
white silk bands is draped in the mourn
ing fashion Buttoned boots of white
buckskin complete the dainty costume.
Evening gowns OF white chiffon. made
with many tucks but no other trimming,
are ideally graceful and lively for the
wearer Of mourning. and a string OF
elegance to such a frock. White net and
white point d'esprit are also considered
correct for mourning wear. and young
girl In deep mourning may dress in the
evening at home in little frocks Of tucked
or ruffied net with soft sashes Of dull
white silk. Such frocks should be mod
estly cut at the neck and should have
long shIrred sleeves Of the net to the
wrist: for upon one thing does convention
insist-in the mourning gown-and that
Is the sleeve to the wrist. An elbow
sleeve Immediately cheapens a mourning
costume and detracts from its dignity
and distinction.
White footing is q correct mourning
tiiiuHliHS WulCu HadkcS up III ils ucilCdtc
grace for the lace which is debarred.
Evening gowns Of dull white peau de sole
trimmed with frills and shirred lnser-
tions Of white footing are exceedingly
dainty, and In summer dimity and ba-
tiste gowns may be as elaborately trim
med with this footing as one desires.
Tucks and buttous are two other trim
mings allowed to the wearer of mourning.
and great deal is made Of these TRIM
mings by the clever dressmaker. Huge
buttons covered with the dress material
Evening star., 1912-09-01
Brassiere Before?
Kitchenettes.

For those who have to do much
household work this hint will be use
full: Before putting the hands into
soda water rub the finger tips and
round the nails with vaseline. The
water will not then touch them and
make them crack.
A good preparation for the hands Is
horseradish soaked in hot milk. Scrape
q horseradish very finely and allow 1t
to soak in hot milk two hours. Rub
this into the hands and allow 1t to dry,
then wash well in soft water.
Keep grained wood fresh by washing
Il with cold tea.
Keep q marble in the kettle to pre-
vent 1t from purring.
Wash all flatirons with soda and
water before putting them over the
fire to heat
Evening star., 1912-09-01

allowing the corners OF the towel to hang
down into the pan of water and put the
pan in cool, drafty place, and the evapo-
ration will keep the butter irm.
Another good way to keep butter is 10
get a large ungazed flower pot and
cover with several thicknesses OF heavy
muslin kept wet and stretched onto \
Wire that fits the pot. Place jar or
some kind inside. on which to stand the
butter. Let the pot rest In Its own large
saucer. and take care that the ends OF
the cloth fall into the saucer, and as long
as IL has plenty of water In IL the cloths
will retain moisture. This cooler must
stand in a draft. In hot weather tSvs
evaporation is very rapid. but that does
not affect the butter. II remains cool.
dry and hard. IL new. the fiower-pot
must be Well scaded and aired. so as to
remove the earthly flavor. Once or twice
scalding. The same contrivance can be
used for milk
Another cool place to keep butter 10
made by sinking q large stone jar into
the ground on the shady side OF the
house. Cover with the lid, then a board.
and throw over this a piece of old carpet
Or sacking.
Milk can be kept sweet all day with
out ice by wrapping a wet towel around
the jar and wettins the towel as fast as
1t dries. Cleanliness and cold are essen
tials in the keeping of milk. Always
wash utensils in soda water to remove
acidity. Milk changed from one temper
ature to another sours quickly. For this
reason do not take cream or milk from
the table after a meal and place II with
cold milk in the refrigerator. Keep Il
apart.
If you would keep lettuce fresh. sepa-
rate the individual leaves, wash them
thoroughly. pack them in a tin pail that
has a very tight cover. so that the air
may not penetrate to them, and set in
a cool place. When the cover is removed.
the lettuce leaves will pop up, and you
will find them as crisp and fresh
though they had but just come from the
garden. Even lettuce that has wilted TO
a sorry state of detection will revive won-
derfuiy If subjected to a few hours Of
this treatment
Place lemons In vessel filled with cold
water as soon as they come from the
grocers. Keep in an ordinarily cool
place and the lemons will keep perfectly
for a surprisingly long time.
Evening star., 1912-09-01

bound with the silk. The armholes will
be corded. and II desired white leather
belt with a pearl buckle may finish the
waist line. huge collar Of white crepe
with cuffs to match will add much smart
ness-if crepe Is worn. And this white
crepe is SO beautiful and makes such a
rich and effective trimming that 1t does
seem pity not to make use of 1t because
of a sentiment against the use Of crepe
in mourning. AS matter OF fact, crepe
is no more suggestive Of gloom than any
other mourning fabric, and just now 1t is
generously used in all fashionable mourn
ing.
A silky weave of mofair with worsted
is much liked by the French couturiers
for mourning gowns for indoor wear.
This material is trimmed with duh silk
or with crepe, and 1t lends itself most
gracefully to the long. clinging lines now
favored. A white gown recently made
In New York for young widow has a
straight, narrow skirt trimmed with two
deep ungathered founces OF white crepe.
the upper flounce being set on at the hip
and the lower one at the knee. The sur
pllced bodice crosses over a deep vest Of
the white crepe, crepe buttons and loops
back falls very deep. rounded collar
of the white crepe which reaches almost
to the waist line. The long. close-fitting
sleeves have a line of crepe buttons up
the side. almost to the elbow.
This gown drags slightly on the floor
all around and with 1t are worn white
kid boots with French heels and small
white pearl buttons. White colonial
with white silk stockings IL desired, but
the stockings should be plain. and not too
thin, with embroidered clocks at the side
II desired.
Dull white pongee makes q charming
mourning gown for informal home wear;
and some women Hike breakfast frocks Of
Evening star., 1912-09-01

are used with big loops Of dull silk or
rows of small crepe-covered buttons are
effectively placed Chiffon and crepe
de chine frocks and blouses are elabo-
rately tucked, pin tucks being generous
ly used on the waist and wide horizontal
tucks on the skirt. and corded seams and
armholes afford another effective trim
ming to relieve the monotony Of the dead
white or black.
While serge in a particular dead white
weave which comes for mourning use
is liked for fall and winter frocks. made
along the simple trotteur lines now in
favor. Such frock may have big but
tons and loops Of dull silk. or butt tonholeS
Evening star., 1912-09-01

handsomest tailored suit worn with
plain little out-of-date collar will sink
into mediocrity beside very ordinary
readymade suit smartened by up-to-the-
minute neckwear and accompanied by the
right boots, gloves and veil.
Just now woman Is fairly loading her
self with neckwear Her throat adorn-
ment Is the most obvious thing In her
whole costume. and after you have taken
in the elaborate concoction that rises
behind her neck, spreads out over her
Evening star., 1912-09-01
NOTES AND NOTIONS.

a staple article of woman's attire. Tho
black brassiere has short sleeve OF fine
black net which helps hold black dress
shield in position. These black brassieres
fill a long fe.t need for they may be
worn beneath thin black summer dresses
made without Innings and are a verb
table boon to the woman in mourning.
Maline omnipresent Just Now.
KHALINE is being much used In Paris
AVA this summer, and the airy fragile
stuff is everywhere. Pleatings of IL trim
evening gowns and wraps; hats are load
ed with it, in loops, folds and pleated
bows. and the maline neck ruffs and
ruches are legion. Long sleeves have
double ruches of maline. one turning up
ward and one downward, with a band OF
ve'vet ribbon tied around the wrist be-
tween the two maline frills. Maine
scarfs are very popular with decollete
gowns. and almost every theater and
dancing gown that Callot turns out now
is accompanied by a floating scarf in
lovely pastel coloring. the scarf being
sometimes attached 10 the shoulder OF
the gown SO that ii floats about its wear
er most gracefully
Evening star., 1912-09-01

the dashing young renegade of the French
court had really worn all the styles at
uibuted to him he would have been an
inordinate dandy with no time to con-
cern himself with revolutionary affairs,
though perhaps his arrival at the gull
lotine would probably have been inevita-
BILE either way. Richelieu collars, Mar
Evening star., 1912-09-01

ceau collars, Byron collars-all copied
from old paintings-are quite as common
as Robespierre collars, and one sees even
notifications of the familiar eton collar.
worn for years by the little English
schoolboy. All these new collars, as has
been said, are extremely picturesque and
most Of them are becoming; though they
lack the trim elegance Of the carefully
Evening star., 1912-09-01

ITO be success. a picnic luncheon must
be properly prepared and daintily
| served. but its ingredients may be Of the
simplest character When packing the
picnic basket be careful not only to make
| a harmonious selection Of foods. but see
| that each Of the viands are packed in q
careful manner. When several kinds Of
sandwiches are served. for example. let
each variety be wrapped In a separate
piece of paraffin paper. II salads are
taken. they should be placed between two
butter boats, and these should be tightly
covered with a cloth that has been damp
ened with cold water.
Fruit and eggs should be carefully
packed in boxes: cake and cookies should
be rolled in wax paper; cold cooked meats
should be inclosed In paraffin paper, and
then In cloth. and such sweets as jams,
marmalades or jellies should not be
covered receptacle II there are no facili-
| ties for the making Of tea or coffee these
beverages may be prepared at home and
conveyed to the picnic grounds in tightly
| sealed jars II butter is taken. 1t must
be packed in tin pail. so that it may be
put in cool spot as soon as the grounds
are reached.
A few bottles Of grape Juice, which Is to
be diluted with water. makes q good
drink. It is better to take lemons and
sugar and make your lemonade after you
arrive with cool water that can usually
be found near all picnicking places
The sandwich Is the picnic standby, of
course. and unusually good ones can be
made by baking pan Of little round rolls,
cutting the tops nearly off when they
are cold. scooping out some Of the crumbs
and filling them with chicken chopped
and reduced to a thick paste with cream.
They must be seasoned highly with salt
and black pepper. and celery salt il liked.
Potted meats are always tasty in sand
wiches. and SO are the ham, tongue,
chicken and cheese sandwiches. but those
with the greatest favor. especially by the
male members Of party. To make
them. first select tender steak and have
the butcher cut 1t in slices about half an
inch thick. Fry these and season them
with pepper and salt, and then place each
slice of meat between two slices Of but
tered bread.
Steamed brown bread loaf a day old,
cut in slices and spread with a mixture
Of Neufchatel cheese and chopped stuffed
olives. makes sandwiches which never
satisfy the demand for more A good
sandwich is made by buttering white
bread thinly and placing between two
slices a thin slice of cold chicken and a
thin slice Of cold ham.
Stuffed eggs are a most agreeable addi-
ton to the picnic lunch, and may be pre-
pared in a variety of ways. The eggs
must be boiled hard, dropped at once into
cold water and when cool shelled. The
whites are then cut off in lengthwise
halves the yokes mashed and seasoned,
mixed with mayonnaise, shaped into balls
and replaced in the whites. For stuffed
Evening star., 1912-09-01

HE Importance OF
up-to the minute
neckwear is a thing
admitted now by
all women who
profess to dress
modishly and COR
rectly. No single
item Of dress has
such q significant
influence on the
entire costume as
the neckwear: the
Evening star., 1912-09-01

dull white lfnen made very simply with
skirts short enough to show the white
buckskn pump or buttoned boot. Crepe
is not used on these simple gowns. but a
big collar OF fine batiste or handkerchief
lawn would be in good taste.
Evening star., 1912-09-01
A Cigarette Suit Part of My Lady's
Weekend Wardrobe.

Weekend Wardrobe.
TT fs, Of course, an open secret that the
fashionable fair indulge in cigarettes.
and the very latest notion in boudoir
wear is an enchanting cigarette suit In
pajama style, made Of crepe de chine
and trimmed with a broad collar and
cuffs of flowered silk. These fetching
costumes are donned for morning bridge
parties in my lady's chamber and are ac-
companied by lounging slippers of satin
with big pompons on the toe. Boudoir
caps of lace and ribbon do not seem to
accord with the bifurcated cigarette suit
but there are becoming smoking caps"
made of silk with tasse hanging at
one side which protect the hair and also
cover an incomplete coiffure.
Why Did No One Think Of the Black
Brassiere Before?
A NEW addition to the underwear de-
partments is a brassiere Of fine
black cotton material made exactly like
the white brassieres which have become
Evening star., 1912-09-01

fitted. boned stock which always looks
well with smart tailored coat.
The wise ones insist that the informal.
picturesque Robespierre collar Is only a
passing fad and that with midseason and
early winter the high boned stock Of
lace will be established In favor. as 1t
usually is, in the cold weather season.
Just now, however, the picture collar
Evening star., 1912-09-01
kII5lte IZou1nz7$ ~
A1d It's Cox2rectne@2

fitness in the street, but 1t has a better
effect on the nerves and spirits Of Its
wearer and on those Of children In the
home. The white mourning costume IL
lustrated might be worn with propriety
Evening star., 1912-09-01

crystal buttons and even little roses made
of the satin. as trimming Two or three
sorts Of lace are often combined In the
same collar. shadow and Bohemian laces
being the favorites.
The prettiest little vests are cominr
over from Paris for wear with cutaway
coats-not mannish vests, buttoning Sc
Evening star., 1912-09-01
Short Cuts for Housekeepers
Keeping Things Cool With Little Ice.,
TO make a cold box. get a good
strong box without any cracks or

ITO make a cold box. get good
strong box without any cracks or
crevices the size you need and
pack tightly with layers OF newspapers
for four or FIVE inches all around the
sides and at the bottom; then fit asbestos
paper tightly around this packing. Make
the packing as tight as a drum. SO that
no air can get in. Place the cold food in
arge stone jars with stone covers. and
pack them side by side in this box. They
should touch each other. Place a pail
Of ice water in the box also. Put several
inches OF layers Of newspapers, or ex-
celsior. or sawdust on top. Then on top
OF all this place thick. firm cushion.
Keep the box In the coolest place you
can find.
Ice cream will keep for hours when
packed In ice and salt and placed in such
box. Any food which does not require
to be stirred, but only frozen. may be
put in and kept cool until needed. The
same way with all cold drinks which on a
hot day get warm SO quickly. II you
want them to keep cold, put them in your
cold box. 1t will keep milk from souring,
butter from melting. and Ice water from
getting warm To keep lettuce and all
other green things deliciously fresh, first
wet with cold water, shake of as much
as possible, then seal in glass jars and
place In the box.
Another good substitute for an fce-box
Is made from a box three or four feet
square, filled four or five inches deep
with clean. coarse salt. Keep the salt
well dampened, and put milk. butter and
other food In this homemade refriger-
ator.
II you have a fairly good cellar. you
may keep food and drink cool by setting
them on the cellar bottom and covering
the dishes with wet cloths which. by
evaporation. hastens the process OF cool
ing. An improvised refrigerator may be
made by placing on top OF an ordinary
box q wire-covered lid. Place this re-
ceptacle In the cellar. filled with food.
and there will be no danger from flies
or mice Line the box with clean paper
and renew as often as 1t becomes soiled.
One way to keep butter cool without
an ice-box Is to put 1t in a covered bowl
set in a pan OF cold water. Fold towel
and lay across the top Of the bowl cover.
Evening star., 1912-09-01

@eO THE woman to whom all
black is hopelessly unbecoming
white mourning Is a veritable
boon. Only of late years has
this spotless garb been taken Ap
for mourning wear: but all white mourn
ing is now considered as correct and as
good form for the deepest mourning
as all black-provided the white is of
that duh. dead. ungistening sort known
a. mourning white" This dull white
may be obtained In certain serges. silks
and worsted weaves. in silk and wool fab
rics In mohair and wool fabrics and In
dull finished linens. 1t may not be OBJ
tanned in satin. IN velvet or in broad
cloth. these materials being barred to
the woman who desires TO dress in con-
formity with the rules of sartorial eti-
quette.
All white mourning must. however. be
The daily star-mirror. (Moscow, Idaho) 1911-1939, 1912-07-25

1t is prerequisite that one most
register if he desires to vote at the
coming primary election. Some have
the idea that the registration of two
years ago will be sufficient and thai
their names will be transferred from
the old books. This is not so. Unless
you register before the books are clos
ed for the primary, you cannot vote at
the primary. If you register for the
primary election however, it will not be
necessary to do so again for the gen
eral election.
For the Moscow precincts, the fol-
lowing are the registrars, with their
location as such:
East Moscow-Mrs. Julia Griffin, at
Weber's Harness Shop.
North Moscow-W. H. Beardsley,
building in rear of Golden Rule Store.
Southeast Moscow-Mrs. Margaret
Strellnaur, at the office of Probate
Judge Will F. Morgareidge in the
court house.
South Moscow-MrS. Lillian Doyle.
building south of Carssow's Grocery
Store on South Main street.
West Moscow-Miss Josephine Reil-
ly, at office of Justice of the Peace
Cummings.
The registration books close on Sat
urday evening of this week, July q.
You cannot vote at the primaries I'M
less you have registered before the
books close. Remember this, that it
is of the most Importance to vote in
the primaries if you want to see your
elected to office