Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-04-12
THE WELL DRESSED MAN
BY
B e A u N AS II
Copyright, 1872, BY Alfred F. Bryan.

Satin evening waistcoats with satin
ties to match are a flamboyant fad,
hardly acceptable to good taste. The
very plainness of evening clothes makes
them target for hundred and one BIZ
zarre introductions, which, though they
may be worn by coterie, die almost
the month they are born. Indeed, there
is now noticeable revulsion of feeling
against all fads in ceremonious dress.
Most men are frankly tired of them. The
simplicity and uniformity of mems even
ing clothes are marked. The strain for
novelty" has been overdone. 1t brought
forth a'sheaf of queer colors and cloths,
which upset the well established scheme
of evening dress and made it chaotic.
For the cutaway coat, there is bud
! ding vogue toward diagonal cloths, which
have been outside the range of fashion
for some years The new diagonals are
gray, with braided edges Of the same
the vicunas or thibets and do not catch
the dust so easily. Trousers to accom-
pany both the cutawav and frock coat
are darker, with fine white silk pencil
stripes. The fashionable walking boot
is made with short vamp to give the
foot trimmer, narrower look. High
military heels are no longer the mode.
They were extremely uncomfortable.
throwing the wearer's weight forward
and making him walk with a mincing
gait that was foppish.
! Pleated Dress Shirts.
| Pleated bosom shirts to accompany the
| swallow tail' coat are revolutionary
idea of the Partisan dandy. Hitherto,
the tucked shirt has only been worn with
soft like the ordinary pleated BOSOM but
are made Of extra heavy linen, and the
pleats are pressed fiat and ironed to a
stiffness quite as unyielding as that of
the plain bosom garment. Thus, the
shirts have the appearance and fit of the
usual plain front, but are more ornate.
The patterns are dainty cross bars of
white upon a white ground and delicate
of which the French loomsman is a con-
summate master. novel evening waist
coat has lape!s which terminate in a
peaked effect, below the front opening.
instead of at the sides.
Thicker silks are now favored for the
AFTERNOON Ascot. 1t is again knitted so
as to give an impression of amplitude.
The smaller shape looked too skimped
to accord with good form. London wing
collars with round-cornered tabs are
once more in vogue The fashionable
patent leather boot has a narrowish, ia
pering toe intended to make the foot look
slim and trim.
Instead of the conventional white
waistcoat some men are partial to the
black or gray waistcoat of the same
fabric as the frock coat, relieved from
somberness by white edging. 1t may be
added that dark afternoon waistcoat
confers a more marked and agreeable
contrast between the waistcoats and the
white or pearl-gray cravat.
Crook-handle walking sticks have been
displaced by straightforward sticks of
plain but costly wood, unornamented.
Full-cut Overcoats have been revived
They are very loose and boxy, with nat
ural, unpadded shoulders and a straight
drop from back to skirt The approved
fabrics are roughish in weave, made of
Scotch stuffs after the English manner.
Permitting overcoats are no longer in
dorsed in these days of the omnipresent
motor car. They hinder easy movement
and are useless for bundling up. The new
box coats have wide sleeves, storm COL
lars and waist-high center vent in
the back.
Mohair Tuxedo Coats.
The good form clothiers and tailors are
showing tuxedo suits Of mohair, a thin
fabric admirably suited to warm eli
mates, to which many men journey at
this time of year. It's weight is negligible
and though it may not hang as we'll as
the heavier cloths, it Is extremely COM
Portable for an evenings lounge or stroll.
Shirts with linen bosom and silk arms
and body are luxurious articles for him
who need not count the cost Dancing