Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-01
SARTORIAL HINTS.
By Elizabeth Lee.

There are many elderly women who
desire to be always correctly gowned and
who have perfect knowledge of the fun
damentals, but are sometimes in doubt as
to the details, especially in these days of
quickly changing fashions. Not going out
as much as formerly, they are apt to lose
sight of the small touches which mark
the gownng of the up-to-date woman.
morning costume for winter wear
should be Of serge, tweed or cheviot. The
short. stout woman should choose a
smooth surface, while the spare. slender
figure will find the thicker materials more
becoming to her
Thicker does not mean heavier. a loose
ly woven. thick fabric may be only of the
same weight fine broadclOth, and
will be if it is all wool.
The skirt will be made to clear the
ground. and should fit the hips smoothly.
The average elderly woman will find 1t
an improvement if the skirt shows pleats
at the lower edge, because they will be an
aid to a graceful carriage. also conve-
nience in walking. narrow panel down
the front will be kind to the short Wom-
an. while the stout figure should wear her
skirt as long as she can without actually
touching the floor.
The half-length semi-fitted coat is the
accepted model finished with long revers
closing at the left side. Most women will
find it more becoming to have the right
front cut SO as to slant. toward center
front from the first closing. This is very
smart looking and gives a better line
than the straight edge. Incidentally, the
latest fad is to have frogs or ornaments
for closing. fashioned from thick cord
covered with cloth of the suit. 1t is
good idea, because the line Of the figure
is not broken, as it would be by adding
ornaments of contra sting tone, say
black braid for instance.
A short woman is apt to look ''patchy'
if her figure is cut up at all by such adj
ditions. Again. there is decided air of
made to order about the suit finished
with collaboration which every woman
desires to suggest by her gowns.
These are some of the details that are
so essential to correct gowning. though
they may sound quite unimportant.
Coat sleeves never go out Of fashion,
and il may be said mans collar is ever
a proper finish to a suit
Black is always in good taste. while
navy blue-a staple color-is very gener-
ally becoming.
For rough knockabout wear the tweeds
are excellent They are also fabrics that
do not really show stains or soil
The hat for wear with a tailored suit
should be of the stiff, ready-to-wear or
der in a medium size. not necessarily the
same color as the dress.
Black may be worn when the wearer is
tall If she so prefers. Navy with navy
suit and brown with brown Is always
good, but there are a few other colOrs
which are more attractive when COM
bined with other colors. A gray hat. for
instance. is not always success. dark
red hat will harmonic with gray dress
and be found becoming to almost every
type of middle-aged woman.
Gloves should be of substantial kid or
| castor preferably tan color. Shoes should
| be neat. well fitting and cut high.
veil of fairly fine mesh with small
| dot is a pretty finish to a tailored suit.
The underskirt must not be white. A
soft messaline in q plain, dark tone or an
unobtrusive stripe will be correct.
The waist will be of a weight to suit
| the wear. but 1t must be plainly tailored.
Personal preferences, too, are allowed
when 1t comes to the neck finish. Some
women look better in the stiff linen col
| lar and tie, others become the softer eff
| feet of lawn stock decorated with little
! handwork.
| Furs may be added, but all such Access
| series as chiffon boas and fancy muffs
| are not in good taste worn with Q morn
ing toilet.