New-York tribune., 1912-04-07
Finely Striped and Checked
Effects Are Safer Than
Changeable Ones.
Paris, March ~

The spirit of springtime is abroad early
In Paris this year. Already the chestnut
trees are in bloom and, in the Bois, the
fresh green grass and new budding shrubs
inspire gladness. The gray winter IS over
Last race day at Auteuil the sun shone
so brightly, the air was so mild, that
wraps were discarded, while their owners
strolled about the pesage. There were
serges and soft ratines in abundance
wrought into tho smartest OF tailored COS
tunes composed of skirts, showing pleats
in various widths and arrangements and
short coats, jauntily sloping from the bust
line. often skirt and coat are of different
color and material. fashion that has not
heen in vogue for many seasons There is
little ornamentaton On the newest tailored
costumes. only the usual accessories show
ing the reverse side of the cloth and hand
some buttons that strike distinctly orIIa-
mental note.
A dull pale blue Is the favorite color In
soft woollen materials. With black acces-
sorles. II is truly charming. The strange
woollen embroideries, representing stranger
flowers, done in coarse, wildly colored
threads. increase in popularity as the sea-
son advances. Used in small quantities
they have an immense decorative value on
a gown of dark color-a hit in the belt,
, or I'm a tiny waistcoat, a gleam OF 1t on
the sleeve or among the folds of the cor
sage, and still again, where Tapped
breadth Of the skirt falls apart
The vogue of changeable taffetas shows
no sign of abatement, but in light shades
Of color refined taste condemns them for
TIaTp something
tawdry in the cleaning mixtures Of pink
and blue and green and yellow when ap-
rlied to morning gowning. The dark tones
OF color-dark blue and black and green
and black, revealed only in q bright light
are a different matter. The green and blue
pIaided taffetas in shades of color SO dark
| and In plaided markings 80 vague as To be
! scarcely discernible are extremely well
| liked for the little dresses launched at all
! the great houses-simple affairs, with
gathered or pleated skirts and loose blouse
corsages, with a bit OF velvet trimming
| end white accessories. The conspicuous
| note in these gowns is that OF youth-a
consolation, perhaps for those who cannot
| AFFORD or do not care TO indulge In the
more stately modes Cf lace founced skirts
and rich silk redingotes. Nothing could be
more youthful than these accordion pleated
| skirts. with loosely fitted blouse corsage
and sailor collar, finished with ribbon belt
or hanging sash. However, II IS not the
years nowadays that count in goWnins'
Given fiat back and slender Siihoue''e'
end the woman OF any age may wear any
mode that pleases her.
To return 10 the subject OF taffetas gowns
| however Women Of exclusive tastes and
women with whom SILK gown counts t"r
considerable and is not easily discarded
! If il becomes unpleasanty common are
advised when ordering one TO select the
striped silks, the fine figured ones ana the
lovely fine checked black and gray or black
and white. which. for the first time in
wears. are again fashionable. and which are
certain TO supplant these changeable SILKS
BY the end Of this season the department
shops will offer the latter at bargain prices
The fine striped and checked silks make
most refined summer costumes. Whether
worn with all white trimmings ana other
accessories o. livened with color com
bination. they leave nothing TO be desired
Refined in themselves, no amount OF ABUSE
in tho wear Of them can affect their Falue.
Worn when such silks are out the eyes
would still rest on them pleasantly. wille
the changeable taffetas are clearly dated
Charming silks appearing for the hrSt
. time this season show tiny flower bouquels
set far apart on a dark ground; and there
are irregularly shaped dots and dashes IN
pretty colors on a contrasting ground that
make fascinating street costumes. Dotted
silks are in high favor among the real now
elites; the dots vary In size from those OF
frame piece TO a pin head. These tiny dots
i'm white and in coors pepper the whole
surface with the prettiest effect. and
grouped in clusters they are equally de-
sirable
The pompadour fowered silks are de-
| lightful when made up according TO the
| color Of the foundation, in combination
with plain black or white voiie or mar
auisette. On richer silks the pompadour
design is seen set in wide stripes. alternat-
ing with stripes of solid coors. 1t goes
without saying that the only trimming
allowed on these silks is black or white
! lace. II is dlstinctlvely a season OF silk
and of lace, and all the light laces are pre-
ferred TO any OF the heavy weaves. The
/ limitations Of Malines lace are as dehcately
attractive in appearance as the real, and
with the heetng fashions OF to-day they
are quite as satisfactory.
But with all the variety and the attrac-
! tiveacss Of new suits, they have not sue
ceedcd in affecting the demand for soft
silken stuffs like charmeuse, meteor and