The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, 1912-09-30
aev,vGp.

Brocaded fabrfcs are axzin shown
Tor goo M. m when thoy begin TO
please the exQuisfte weaves now seen
WIN doubtless be Initiated more or less
successfully with cheaper Eradps Of
siik and veiyet
The Textures have none Of the stin-
ness Of ye ancient times. although the
sofuy falling silks are sometimes Of
incredible thickness There ar bro
cades for the dowager and breaches
Tor the d~ebctante. patterns for the
former being Larger and the silks
and veivets riche with gold and silver
threads than those for the latter.
Buds. Tiny roses. low knots. little
baskets Of flowers and lue ribbons
waving about flower sprays in natural
hues appear o the silks for youth
full evening wear. And the frocks. we
are told. IRE to be made with n good
deal of the antfquated charm-the
lovely lowered silks shaping gannier-
ed TUNES attached TO square necked
bodices with ruried elbow sleeves.
This sweetness viii 20 over lace pet
~tfcoats. looped and garianded with
flower bands In the old way.
The ~seif-coiored brocxdes are in
sisted upon by the fashion people for
street use, as those with contrasting
flowers seem a shade too gay: con-
y. EAAAaIA HONtI OVu-
quets. ovals. ~crescents. circles and
plated and checked effects appear on
these. With the black brocades In
velvet OF silk sparkling pet seems
a hitting garnkure and some cut vel
vet coats d rplay very grand buttons
and frog claims OF IL. For dress use
there Is nothing more handsome for
the dowaser than n coat of this sort.
and such wraps are loose. wide
lAAw al --a-
The brocaded infiusnce Is seen even
among mourning materials. one silk
and wool. fabric for tailored gowns
Initiating the wide and narrow lines
OF mems suiting. A black Chinese
Grape. closely covered with dull flow
ers. Is shown for the waists Of fine
black dresses. and In the helf mourn
ing department there IN a dusky gun
metal Colo which is having consid-
cradle vogue. this showing up splend-
idly In almost every material.
For tailored suits in color OF black
there is a new velvet with a corduroy
look. but without the ridges OF this
well known fabric. Inc with this Q
silk braid Toes most handsomely.
Mole or aup Is a favorite color IN
these fine fabrics. which seems to in
dictate that they are preferably for ell
Derby wearers. as should be all the
textures win lufEe patterns. At any
rate. II Is on established truth thai a
broca1ed materia' must be carefully
managed no. to give its wearer some
thing of a settled look. The fact that
such rich trimmings need to be used
increases this danger. unless the fine
garniture IS very sparingly put on or
the wearer takes things in her own
hands and orders nlmy chinons and
nets Off The touches OF the brocaded
gown or coat.
One OF the most gorgeous OF the
brocaded fabrics Is a colored gauze-
a rich blue. dull red n walliower
yellow are the most effective colors-
embossed with figures OF black velvet.
This magnihCe n material is evolved
into coats iOr opera and theatre use.
the loose. wide sleeved garment. cut
with n beetle back and lined and
trimmed with a chiffon hood. Ir a
brocaded coat is worn the costume
should always be in "A plain fabric.
and the thinner a. Is the better the
result Of the whole get-up will he.
The embossed velvets. grapes and
GAUGES are very suitable for the nun
and neck piece sets women will soon
begin TO wear. n the figured finer
les viii be most effective with hand
some tailored gov ms OF cloth, satin or
plain velvet.
Fur and marahout bands. both OF
which will be much used on the coats,
supply the proper decking for such
sets. which because Of the patterns OF
the fabrics. would appear unfinished
II left unframed