The state herald., 1912-09-06

the W0rm-an1 II lS Naples
that usually first catches the
tourist from the States;
when he is fresh, when he
bulging-as the case may be some
les with the fat Of many American
lars. Milan. to be sure. swapping
the tourist from the north, displays
a much lesser degree somewhat
pillar characteristic; but as the vic
has already had his first lesson
fall having been broken. SO to
eak. by more or less gradual de-
ent through France, with its own
Iny OF 'pay-pay-pays." there is real
no comparison.
Having contemplated with rapture
pm aboard your ship the really mag
icent harbor; the picturesque ships.
eir sails and rigging enveloped in
se-colored vapors that have caught
2 rays OF the sun: the not far-dis-
Mt Vesuvius bathed in resplendent
prning mists. and forming part of
this riot OF atmospheric glamor;
erything around you suggesting the
essence of life and human animation
fand stirring something way down In
e depths OF you-you are suddenly
ID rudely awakened to the exigent
alities of the situation. once you are
shore; having ignored a Fremont
on in the naked boy diving for pen
es in your wrapt admiration OF his
tonishing skill
II you are prospective traveller of
be male persuasion. not. overbur-
ened with money. take warning. leave
bur trunk behind, and II possible
bur padded shoulders; they will both
rove a drain on the purse. Be sure
nd take Baedeker: It is indis.
ensable-but do not iaunt II in pub
g places: you are recognized with.
3ut II. and to expose its red covers to
be air is to throw out challenge.
4hieh the street merchant, the shop.
seeper. the restaurant man and the
|,reet gamin are not slow TO accept.
Is interpreted as a symbol. a proof
y your being n stranger and green:
proof of your being able to afford n
faedeker-and therefore other things:
\ proof also OF your curiosity. and
)ence suggesting your susceptibility
- temptations.
Having passed the customs. the
fAbby is the first TO take peek Mt
|ou-and II you have that trunk, the
ord help you! To be sure. you are
IN taxi; and tho "tarifY'' dial stares
(ou openly In the face: but somehow
pr other the cabby manages to con
|ince you that It Is there only as an
Prnament-anyway. there's the trunk!
Fen TO one tho rarcaily chap does
bot depart without extorting from you
employing no yiolence-a fare three
lines over. and will not refrain from
fuggesting that you owe him n tipl
You Arrive.
You are landed. nt the recommenda-
lion OF friend. In one OF those curt
pus archod Railways, where the oabby,
his left eye when you arc not
looking. passes you on TO the porter.
who emerges from little dark room.
20 dark that Il In only after hearing
voices within that you peer In and dis.
c.rn the paloncsa OF face here and
there and begin to wonder how people
could live In the dark. like rats. and
the sun shining In the street. While
whltiog for the landlady you take n
look about,
You are on Via vardonoa. and you
look up and down tho picturesque
street, famous for Donixetti'a resi-
dence here. and Infamous for one OF
tho Aauanaina,lons which figured In
the recent cammorra trials. Dirty,
but pletureauel unevenly stretches
this thorouEhfarc OF tall old teno'
munta. down grade. toward PioEEn
Fcrdinando. where several streets con.
verge. like tho apokea Of wheel on
some Of tho larger streets OF Naploh
the sidewalks arc large enough 10 lot
two persons walk abreast. n they ARE
lovers. but Via vardoner has no eide.
vaikH at all where sidewalks should
he women ait around and perform
their household duties. nomn are
ahslling peas. others are washing
n young mother II feblnding
her baby. who q rnomen, before lay
In his crib aa naked ~ n cherub. Here
you sec a pail lowered on rope from
tha fourth story. the hawkey nils u
with vegetables. and then the pail