The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1912-09-03
NEW YoRk FASHIONS
(sy Florence Fairbanks)

s"S i"' 90 ohOps dTe UeSiHnIHk 10 SHOW
more clearly the trend of fashion for
autumn and now give fairly good
idea of the styles which will probably
be worn during the coming season
The new pleated skirts, while showing
increased measurement, still come
within the two-and one half.year limit.
A variety of pleats is shown, the &C.
cordian and machine pleated styles be-
ing used in many of the smartest mod
els, while the shallow side pleats and
fatty pressed box pleats are other
styles coming in for a large share of
favor.
The machines pleats are so shallow
and fatty pressed that they do not
fly to any extent, and for this reason
require no staying underneath. With
the side and box pleats II is neces.
sary to have tapes fastened to the
pleats at intervals so that the straight
line will be retained.
Pleats are used for the section be.
low the knees, the top having panniers
and tunics. Pleats are also used for
whole skirts. Groups of pleats are
inserted at intervals around the skirt
bottom, and pleated panels are placed
at the side, back or front. There is
no section of the skirt in which pleats
cannot be introduced effectively. Some
of the waists show fine pleated sec.
tiOns not only for the back and the
front portions, but for the sleeves as
well.
The new school year is about to be-
gin and mothers of school.going
daughters are busy preparing Their
daughters wardrobes for the fall and
winter season. There is no more sat.
isfaCtory fabric for the school girl
than navy blue serge, and frock of
this sort, with an alternate frock of
plaid woollen, or mohair frock trim.
med with braid, should stand by the
schoolgirl very sturdily for the fall and
winter terms. The blue and green
broken plaids are very attractive when
made up with pipings of plain colored
silk, a few gilt or nickel buttons being
added for the sake of youthful gaiety.
Smart little frocks are shown in the
girls departments of the large shops,
made of black and white checked mo-
hair, with cuffs, collar and deep re.
vers Of black satin, a pleated frill of
white batiste running down the front
inside the satin revers. Half a dozen
fresh frills come with the frock SO
that the schoolgirl may be always
fresh and dainty. A black patent
leather belt finishes this neat and ef-
fective mohair school frock.
Most of the blue serge models are
made In two piece effect, with a
straight, simple skirt. short enough to
show the neat buttoned boot, and
belted Norfolk waist opening at the
neck over chemisette of tucked lawn
or batiste. These belted waists are
dear to the hearts of the young school
girl, for they have breezy, boyish
suggestion that Is fetching in the ex.
treme. Sometimes the Norfolk is fin.
ished with a sailor collar opening In
a v over the throat.
A very attractive little belted frock,
which might be copied easily In the
home sewing room was exhibited in
Fifth avenue window the other day.
Skirt and jacket blouse were Of the
inestimable navy blue serge, the skirt
being quite straight and narrow In
line, but having considerable width for
all that, by reason of two deep inturn-
ing pleats set down either side seam.
Over these pleats as far as the knee
were stitched an inch-wide strap of
the serge ending In a pointed tab. The
pleats, without interfering with the
modish slmness of the little skirt,
would afford plenty of comfortable
room for long tramps across country.
for tennis or other active sports. The
jacket blouse had no pleats and no
fancy collar. II was simple, roomy
affair with long shoulder lines and
large armholes. butt0ning down the
center front under a stitched flap and
falling In rounded.off peplum below
wide leather belt. A black satin
sailor collar of very moderate size,
small black satin neckbow and mar
row, turned.back black satin cuffs fin
ished the blouse in simple, girlish
manner.
Never before has the schoolgirl pos.
sessed a coat so eminently satisfying
In every respect as the rough and
ready Mackinaw, with its boyish cut,
its big pockets and wide collar, which
may be turned up around the throat
and chin In inclement weather. Those
coats are made Of rough worsteds,
vicunas and fringed cloth--the fringed
models being especially smart II a
trifie more high priced than the or
dinary haltad stylaa S0ma Mackina ve