Evening star., 1912-11-17

out to find something new.
The jaded appetite itself was not new.
Probably there is not man or woman
in all Washington who at some time or
other has not experienced it-or per-
haps been afflicted with 1T" is the bet
ter phrase. There comes a time to
every one when the list of steaks. chops.
outlets and staple vegetables with the
all too limited number of ways in which
the average cook knows how to prepare
them, grows unbearably monOtonous.
SO frequent is this feeling. indeed, that
a certain noted specialist after twenty
years of practice, declared the jaded
appetite to be the great American
complaint"
There are number of common
remedies for the jaded appetite, but
none of them thorough The single
man may change his place of eating.
The married man may fire the old cook
and hire a new one. One may buy and
consume any number Of "tonics, or. ii
one has the means, one may board
train and seek change of scene. But
in most cases the jaded appetite Will
remain. despite all these. AS result.
there are those who will tell you that
there is no cure outside OF highly
improbable total revitilizat ton, or q trip
to Europe, where everything tastes
different"
Perhaps there are no new foods. but
there are scores upon scores of ways
of preparing and combining them or
which the average native Washing
sary to go to Europe for things that
taste different. Right here in Wash
ington there are restaurants. each
serving the food combinations of dif-
cording to the recipes and customs OF
that country. Right here in Washing
ton the man with the jaded appetite
can find the menus of all the world.
peculiar to France. the like of which.
unless he be foreign travelled, he mas
never dreamed existed. for 1T is the
little out-of-the-way French restaurant
rather than the huge establishment OF
tinsel and gold that the typical dishes
of the la belle country are to be found
He may have meats prepared according
to the customs of quaint Japan. he
may have an entree from the dragon
land of China. vegetables as eaten by
the subjects Of King Victor of Italy.
and dessert, the recipe for which was
brought straight from the ancient
kingdom of Greece.
And he may wind up this Lucullan
feast with coffee from the land of the
Turk, and cheese made In the royal
palm forests Of Cuba. Resolved to their
final analysis. they are the same Old foods.
but they neither look nor taste tne
same Before them. ninety-nfne times
out of a hundred, the most Jaded ap-
petite will be put to utter rout.
+
Nor is it necessary for one to go al
ways to the restaurants to secure these
new foods. An initial trip is necessary,
Of course-but the Greek, the Italian, the
tiny Jap, the stole Chinaman and the
garrulous Frenchman are all proud OF
their native dishes, and they need but
little urging TO tell how they are pre-
pared. And though all these foreign
foods will not please all people. 1t mat
tiers but little. The range Of variety is
almost wide as the taste
When The Star man set out to blaze
a relief trail for the jaded appetite he
followed a course which led through
quiet. residential streets. all just off the
main way, but never on II. His first stop
was at small, unpretentious establish
ment, which. save for small sign. evil
IDENTIFY homemade and reading "Maison
Franchise looked not unlike the dwell
ing of thrifty laboring man. Opening
the front door he found himself in a.
tiny bar. given over almost entirely to
display of light wines. red and white, and
multi-colored liquors. 1t required only
few steps to cross the bar 80 sec
ond door hanging invitingly half open.
Through this-and he was In the dining
room
II is tiny room. except picture of
the great Napoleon reviewing his troops,
a BIT Of tricolor draped over an old
fashioned mantel, and one or two old
steel engravings. il Is bare of ornamen-
tation. Light comes only from a single
window. through which il the sun is
shining. a misty gray filters over five
small round tables. II the sun be partly
hidden, lamps must be lighted. Alto
gether ii is distinctly plain. The uniniti-