Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1912-09-19
GEMS IN THE MAKING.
Diamond Cut Diamond-Thc Necessary
Sixty-TOur Facets.
(From the New York SUM-

Cut Dt0m M - y NeeeSSarv
~Sixty-TTour Facets.
(From the New York Sun
When a woman Ions her diamonds she
seldom realizes how much labor 10 en-
tailed in tho cutting and polishing Of
the stones before they are ready to be
set n made UP into ring, tiara, neck
lace or whatever other form desired.
A diamond factory does not mean a
factory whore imitation diamonds are
made. but n place where real diamonds
are cut and polished from the rough
stones There are four branches OF the
trade. therefore in a factory the mon are
divided into cutters. settlers, polishers
and polishers' laborcrs, who assiet the
poitshers.
behind the scenes and see the various
stage through which a diamond passes
until 1t Is ready for setting and the ex-
perience Is a most interesting one.
Perhaps II would be better to start
from the very beginning" said the man.
ager OF the factory to a Pail Mall Gaz-
cite reporter. and Their you can see
how the stone looks as It passes through
the various processes. Here are the
rough stones. They do not look like
flashing diamonds7 No: as the ordinary
person would say. they seem just dull,
d~irty-lockinR. gray particles OF stone
That Is the rough diamond. The first
thing 70 be done Is 10 cut the stone. and
to d this the cutter decides whether he
will cut II by hand or machinery"
In this particular factory the stone
were all cut by hand until comparative
which renders the process much less
iaborious. 1t is really Il case OF dia-
mond cut diamond. as by rubbing two
stones against each other one gradu-
ally assumes the shape desired and the
requisite thickness. The cutter has a
long stick. on top OF which Is a brass
cup, in which he puts q certain kind OF
cement: In this he embeds the rough
stone; the cement must he heated first
and the cooling process Is most print
tive, as the cutter merely blows on the
hot cement and tries II against his lips
to sec IL IL Is cold enough TO
cutting.
Does not that burn your mouth?' the
cutter was asked.
We'll, I suppose 1t does" he Said. "but
II merely dries the lips, and one cat
always use something to minimize that
With the new machine the cooling 1.
done by dipping tho stick IN water
which certainly seemed the better way
On the way a diamond is cut a grea
deal depends. because the cutter decide.
which way a stone Is to be taken. ant
n II II done in the wrong way the value
VI the stone Is deprecated; II a nav is a
the back Of tho stone It's lustre is mucl
dimmed. Pure stones" said the cutter
are very rare. and. OF curse. a per
fectly pure stone Is extremely valuable.
Taking up the two sticks In which h,
had placed two rough diamonds, he pro
ceeds to cut one by hand-that is t.
say, he slowly rubbed one against tn,
other. the minute particles falling int,
very fine sieve. through which the dus
fell into an air-proof box.
II the stone is a large one this hand
cutting Is very laborious, as II require
a great amount Of strength to cut II, am
naturally the process is rather slow. r,
the machine II IL really the same process
except that one stick is held In place b,
the machine. which revolves rapidly, tn,
cutter holding the other stick in hi
right hand, Each side OF tho stone ha.
to he cut separately; II Is generally tn,
back or pointed part OF the stone whic
Is cut first, he fiat side being treated
next.
What becomes Of the diamond dust?
Well" said the cutter, 1T is used 70
polishing. Mixed with olive oil, it make
a paste which is put on the plate usec
by the polisher. Inferior diamonds ar
ground down to a dust also, so that moth
Ing Is wasted"
The setter now takes the diamond ant
puts 1t Into a mould composed of tin AM
lead. which is brought to a white heat
and when the diamond Is slipped int,
this the mould is Immersed In water 70
the purpose OF cooling Il. Tho softer ha
to SO place the stone that II will be a
the roper angle for polishing, be It tn
side. back or front. Looking at a dia
mono. one sees q fiat surface in the mid
die of the stone; this Is called the tabl
or top part Of the diamond: the pack o
pointed part Is called the culet. Whel
both these are made the facets have L
be cut. Altogether there are sixty-fou
facets. no matter what size the ston'
may be.
To the naked eye II is absolutely i'm
possible tn discover these facets, the
are so minute. but the pOlisher can Sc
them without a magnifying glass: hi
eyes are so trained to the work that h
makes the facets 30 many on top. g.
many at back and so many at the sides
The mould is held In position by
metal holder, the diamond being barrel,
visible through the mould. and althougl
the stone is only lightly placed on tn
revolving plate. the high speed at whicI
II revolves is sufficient to cut the face
In the required position.
Each tim a facet IL lone the ston
has to be taken out of the mould h
the setter and reixe AZ a different an
gle until the whole %sixty-four are made
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