New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-09-29

Shirtwaists of
the Hour

.,,i,twaist is scheduled 10 play an
more important role In the drama
t.sbions than it has assumed Tor many
o. - And. as II 10 make good her
tho sbirtwaist Of the hour is more
par" o,,ng more alluring and more be-
app ,bar Il has shown itself for
several seasons
Tn. Strict Tailored Shirt
.rs. woman who goes ir for the sever
I"O .,;iored effects orders her shirts
S ga IN the same lines as those oil her
~ .,,or o~ husband. To be sure the wise
Y'yaraaeber makes the necessary changes
-. tba feminine figure, but inc results
~ ,,o,~lv Identical that the custome.
az ,I.ssd These shirts will be developed
100. white silk. flannel OF one OF
- - silks For those who 90 not
-. ,.sar after year the same "rue.
- 49,. elight changes which dlstin-
spisb tho shirt this fall from .i'd' u u.o
sn~inc The principal distIncuo" Hc' :"
-bo collar. for the rolling co'h'o' '"o'c
pobespierre collar has been adopteu WIN
g,,.cess for the tailored shirt. inc oeep
- are another point Of diuerence
-, nj the so-callod tailored waists
tosst cuffs with tunoyers OF black SILK
..,nerallv taffeta. 10 match the hlgh stoch
., the same material
The Semi. Tailored Blouse
rho~e are numerous blouses which nave
~ ,bs simplicity Of the severely tailored
IL. and vet are exploited in such truly
t.,,inino stuffs that they only half de-
1--WE the title Of semi-tailored shirt
oo,s,s Take. for instance, the blouse
eboUn in the illustration, when may DC
ta.b,onsd from either one Of the heavy
,ew silks or a flannel. II il pracucalIy
ssvoid OF trimming. except for the Nont
,iece which is clevcrly extended TO the
a., Of the collar. Only an outline or
s,itcblng and tho buttons, which figure
on every blouse OF tho hour, with pronl-
,srt buttonholes, lend even the sugges-
Hon Of trimming 10 this front piece.
There IS the low shoulder seam, which
"a not seen perhaps in the severely tail
ARID shirt bur which adds the up-to-dato
touch 10 nine out Of ten Of the ran
bleuses and the deep cuffs
The tris little blouse made from faiilo
six is another example Of the semi-taiI-
otjed blouse Of which there are innumer-
able plays among tho shirtwaists or the
sour. on this House tho revers are OF
Inc material edced with lace. and the
nlainness is broken by the buttons ana
butonholes. There is the same pointed
Robespierre. or Directoire, collar OF the
material. The color note may he sounded
by the stitching in a contrasting Shaoe'
The epaulettes which lend the much de-
sired long shoulder line, are likewise
lightened by the colored stitching
Tberc are numerous examples every
where YOU turn Of this style OF blouse
The fayorite type IS tho blouse with the
low shoulder seam, the reyers. either Of
,5e material or of lace. plain, enhanced
with clever bit Of embroidery or
trimmed with buttons, and the pointed
'ov Robaspierre collar. When this type
Of waist IS not desired the blouse with
The vest is selected. one of the simplest
and vet one of the daintest, OF these
waists was shown this week IN an eX-
elusive French shop. The waist was
fashioned from a cream challie with
dainty Dresden pink and blue rose de-
sign II was cut with the usual low
shoulder seam, and the long sleeves were
softened at the wrist with frill OF net
extending nearly TO tho elbow. From the
neck 10 the hem there was a narrow vest
Of white satin. with tiny amber buttons
aanked on either side by narrow white
satin turnback revers. It was simplicity
itself, but very dainty and very appeal
fNp