Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1912-08-17

Special to The Tribune.
NEW YORK, Aug. 16.--Accordion
pleating is coming in with a rush. 1t
is here in a few advanced models OF
clever makers; but the fashion is too
beautiful to be ignored and 1t is pre-
dicted that the plec ted frock Is to be
a feature of late summer and fall
styles. silk in plain or ~changeable
colors is pleated for entire costumes
that are adaptable for little runabout
frocks or for elaborat~ afternoon
gowns. There is decided fullness in
skirt, sleeves and bodice.
Little accordion.pleated jackets OF
soft chiffon and mOusselie de sole
are now threatening to replace the
coatees of taffeta that have been
such strong features. Evening wraps
and lovely negligees are showing
pleating in either entire lengths or
as muflles on the berthas and
sleeves.
But one thing must be remember
| ed. Fullness there is in all the new
frocks, but balloon skirts are by no
means in style. There is still the
straight line of the figure to be ad-
hered to, and it must be admitted
that the designers have not intro
duced bulkiness, although they have
given more actual fullness than for
several reasons.
The simple one.piece frock of linen,
cotton, silk or wool, as it is known
this season, comes very near being
the ideal summer lrock for the girl
in her late teens, and the designers
have wrought SO many varitions up
on the theme that n may have a
score of such frocks yet show no
monotony save perhaps in the mat
aer OF line.
AT this late day the shops offer
any number of these charming frocks
at very reasonable prices. There are
plenty of frocks useful and suitable
for summer wear which might con-
tinue to give service during the au-
tumn and even the winter for house
wear. There are the pretty frocks OF
white charmeuse and of white tai
feta, for example. Unlined, rolling
back from the throat or In some way
leaving the throat free, light, sup
pie, they are cool and comfortable
for summer, easily packed. not prone
to mussing like cottons or linens, in
extensively and easily ceaned, and
they will be found exceedingly use
full in cold weather as during the
hot season.
Some attractive variations upon
this id a have been presented in
brocaded charmeuse, all white, love-
ly in texture and rather dull in finish.
The figured silk seems hardly so
youthful as the plain, yet here and
there one sees girls wearing frocks
of it which are decidedly girlish. One
Of these frocks. seer the other day
at a fashionable gathering, had a
skirt absolutely plain, straight and
narrow, though a little fullness in the
back allowed the wearer comparative
freedom of movement. The belted
tunic buttoned straight down the
front had a collar of fines, linen and
lace, frills of lace on it's long close
sleeves and a girdle of bright blue
velvet.
This note of vivid color in the
| girdle of a costume otherwise all
white is very generally used, blust.
blou de ciel and bright green being
chosen more often perhaps than any
of the other vivid tones, though in
the popular narrow leather belts
which are used upon anything from
lingerie "a silk, bright red is the IA
vQrite color for wear with linens and
nuslins, and the reds figure. too
among the silk and velvet girdles.
A good looking little crepon frock
seen recently had its skirt, collar and
cuffs of white cotton crepe with q
fine stripe of red, and its cutaway,
belted tunic of plain white cotton
crepe with belt Of red leather n
soft cravat Of red silk.
The cotton crepes and marquisettes
are being much worn by girls, and
some of the frOcks in these materials
are altogether charming, the mar
quisette being preferred for 0 ella
borate frocks, although it is used too
for very simple models. Occasional
~ a line Willie CIepOu Has SOAuc Wis
NAL feature that gives it character.
One pretty little white crepon, for in
stance, had embroidery above the
hem of it's straight, clinging tunic,
and little separate clusters of cher
ries in their natural colors and a
girdle of cherry color encircled the
waist, but there was no other touch
of gay color. ,
The cotton voiles are ever better
than the crepone for the girls frock,
having the same serviceable, non
crushable qualities and lending them
selves rather more readily to applied
trimmings and self trimming. These
voiles are good in dainty striped de-
signs-white with a hairline stripe
of pink or blue or ceries, and some
Of the most attractive frocks in such
material have the stripe cleverly'
used as trimming and, for further
decoration, tiny frills Of fine white
linen which give a crisp freshness to
the soft, filmy frock.
Dainty striped silks are made up
in similar ways and often without