Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-12-11

SoftneSS of outline achieved by grace
full draped effects and by the use of furry
and feather trimming is the Keynote
Of the millinery for early winter wear.
Styles follow each other in such swift
succession these days that there is no
predicating safely what hat styles will be
six months ahead, and by midwinter
towering shapes, with plumes rising alott.
may be the whim of Paris-just now,
however, everything in the millinery line
is low, soft and graceful. Flat. moderately
large hats of an exceeding softness of
outline are in vogue-the very large hat
| is not favored by the woman who avoids
bizarre styles in dress, and the tiny auda-
cious hat has likewise been vetoed. In
| fact the size of a hat|arge or small-iS
no longer the feature that presents itself
Iobtrusively to the attention, for hat sizes
are moderate and shapes conform pleas
ingly to the head and to the line Of the
shoulders. this last being point which
the skillful milliner never overlooks.
Grace not size is now the important con-
sideration, and next comes harmony of
| color.
The varied tones of taupe and smoke
gray, seal brown and black. are greatly
favored by the fashionable milliners for
few strong though not bright tones OF
| red are seen, these lines appearing rather
| in the form of telling trimming touches
than in the material of the hat Brick
red is a new millinery color which is
avoided by women who are not very sure
about the fairness of their compilations.
A seal brown plush turban. noted re-
Gently, had at one side of the front a
very striking cabochOn ornament made
of ostrich in the dull. brick-red color
around a central cabochon Of dull gold.
The effect was rich and almost oriental
| in its intensity of color A new blue, with
kl Ill oh
bia figures is seen on exclusive hats of
Partisan origin, and when combined with
black this blue is extremely beautiful and
generally becoming.
| Jade green Is also noticed here and
| there in a combination with black or very
dark brown. stunning hat, displayed
| in Washington window last week, had a
| draped tan crown and a softly rolling
brim of seal brown plush, and at each
| SIDE starting from a fiat gold clasp above
| backward along the brim. the tips Of the
plumes falling over the back Of the hat
and meeting on the shoulder.
Among the new styles are two remark
ably good looking models on the new tam
lines. One has large crown of black
velvet shirred into band of ermine. Di-
rectly at the front on the band of err
mine there is an embroidered buckle in
oriental cOlorings. with touches of dull
gold. The other model Is formed of fine
cloth. embroidered on the top Of the
crown In subdued colorings. Underneath
the crown appear two ostrich plumes
| which fall gracefully over the hair.
| Plush is undoubtedly the foremost mil
| linery material and has thrust even vel
vet little into the background. All sorts
| of plush are used from the furriest varie-
ties to that of which the texture is as
smooth and silky as beaver. Crowns are
| softly draped with plush and brims are as
softly covered with it, some of the ef-
fects being so very cushiony and undu-
| lating as to suggest a padding of cotton
| between frame and plush covering. Ere
| Quently the material is shirred over cords
| around the edge Of the brim, or a shir-
ring of tulle is added. to emphasize this
desirable effect Of softness. 1t is the ex.
ceptional brim now that droops at the
edge. The general trend of the brim
may be lowered at one side Of the hat Al
least. but the edge is sure to curl or roll
| up a wee bit and the hard line of the all.
| around mushroom droop is absolutely un-
| known.
One extremely good looking model no.
ticed recently was a large fiat shape OF
black velvet. which dropped slightly al
the sides. At the left side of the low
round crown there was a black aigrette
placed so as to give the proper height
fluffy at both ends. and the lower part
extended across the sides of the wide
slightly dropping brim and curled over
the edge in fluffy ends.
ener than on the crown, and when they
are on the crown they are very apt tc
droop or curl over the brim. back of one
ear. as is shown in the hat described
above. Some of these dropping trim
UNNECESSARILY in the shape of ostrich
feathers-touch the shoulders, and the
effects achieved by the mlliners in this
line are wonderfully picturesque and
graceful.
One smart tam model is trimmed al
the top of the fulled crown with orienta
embroidery, and there are two ostrich
tips placed underneath the crown, and
slightly curling up over It,
AS has been stated, plush is one Of the
most favored materials for millinery use
and smart. small shapes are fashioned
from fine black plush giving the effect
Of sealskin. An attractive small model
Of black plush has a slightly turned UP
brim and fulled crown. At the side front
and back there Is an aigrette curling
down ov-r the brim.
Another small shape is made OF white
plush. trimmed with aigrettes. There is
large crown. fulled into narrow
turned-up brim. The model sets wei
down over the head.
Paradise Is the most fashionable trim.
ming Of all. but it is so expensive thai
only the few may indulge in it. Many
imfta lions of the real OaradiSe Dlumes