Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-02-25

ure natural must be lissome and dell
cately rounded. and the lines OF waist line
and hip must melt into each other with
no sharply defined belt line.
Waists have, OF course, been sacrificed
Internationally to this cult Of the classic
figure. No fashionable woman thinks OF
having a waist line now with her evening
frock In fact, the ''natural-figure cor
set emphasizes the size OF the waist and
is absolutely unconstricted over the dia-
, phragm, so that while the hips and back
have long. beautifully graceful lines, the
front of the torso, viewed en- silhouette,
presents almost a straight line. This beau
tiful line, modelled after the torso line of
the Samothrace Victory in the Louvre. is
| always apparent in the natural feminine
figure In young womanhood. 1t is most
subtle and exquisite line and the ordinary
corset utterly destroys 1t. 1t is line
that would be impossible under a smart,
correctly built tailored suit, or even q
conventional frock intended for street or
house wear in the morning. 1t is only
permissible as yet in polite society with
the clinging. semi-classic evening drape-
ries and with the teagown or neslige OF
soft silk and lace.
| The fashionable woman does not risk
even the soft folds of a lingerie chemise
beneath her expensive classic evening
gowns Usually union suit of glove silk
is worn, and this union suit. with the cor
setless corset and perhaps wisp of a null
petticOat finished with founce of fatty
pleated lace. constitutes the maximum
amount of underwear. The glove silk
union suit clings like an cells skin. though
1t may have dainty garnishment of en-
! brOidery, with real lace at the edges. and
| 1t Is matched by embroidered silken stock
ings of the same finely woven texture, or
| of the more transparent thread silk.
These glove silk garments come in special
models for wear with very decollete bod
ices, and often there are no shoulder
straps, the front and back of the garment
being held nv ribbons which are
united and tucked down into the corset
when the latter has been adjusted.
This corset is that unparalleled achieve
ment-a corset which produces corsetless
| lines. Shades Of the ancient iron and
steel horrors which once decreed the
eighteen-inch maximum waist measure
ment for femininity-what would Catherine
de Medici with her thirteen-inch belt, or
Queen Eliza beth with her trim stiff bod
ices, have said of the modern corset
! which gives one the lines of Greek sculp-
ture, whatever mistakes nature may have
+ made with ones own proportions? These
new corsetless corsets are, Of course,
made Of the softest. most pliable fabric
silky, supple mesh called trtcOt by the
French cOrsetieres. This fabric is soft
and thin that the folds of drapery over
| 1t seem to be drawn over the flesh itself;
strong in fiber and the corset is cleverly
reinforced at points where the strain
comes with stOuter material. over the
curves of hip. limb and back. however,
cot, the few bones that are permitted in
the corset being cut off just below the
turn of the hip. The corset molds the
figure into beautiful natural ltnes-the
lines Of youth and slenderness. OF course;
and there are corsets which seem able to
produce these girlish lines in even amply
developed. matronly figures, without
suggestion of rightly. OF course cor
setless corset to bear out Its name, must
be as soft, pliable and comfortable as
ones own flesh. and perhaps it is this
feature, as much as any other. Wnlcn
keeps the natural figure in the favor OF
Dame Fashion.
Madame Simone appeared this winter
on the stage in many charming evening
gowns, worn absolutely without corsets;
vet so perfect is her figure and Sc
beautiful the harmony OF lines between
hip and waist that it was hard to Deneve
the way of corset Many other classic
evening gowns have been worn on the
stage this season, but almost invariably.
! beneath. was the soft. loW-cut, almos,
unboned corset of silky tricot weave
These corsets, while reaching well over
the hip and thigh, and while securely
held in position by three or more groups
! OF garters on each side. extend scarceiy
above the waist line at the top. clever cut
Of the fabric allowing plenty OF room for
| free movement Of waist muscles and
diaphragm. SO that the body Is virtually
uncorseted above the waist. If the fg.
ure is young and firm no added support
| is needed under the softly draped bodice
| IL there is a tendency toward heaviness
and embonpoint. light brassier Is don
ned-usually now under. rather than over
| the corset top. SO that the soft, plant
| lines Of nature may be retained.
The beautiful evening gowns pictured
on today's page show this uncorseted
figure effect in more or less emphatic
manner Perhaps the most pronounced
model in this respect Is the chiffon anG
/ charmeuse gown embroidered in diamant.
effect by Cabot soeurs: This gown
as limp and soft as a dishrag. The dia.
mante tuntc of jade green chiffon drag'
downward, under the weight of the crys
| tai bead tassels at either side, over thu
skirt of white charmeuse. and this cling
ing skirt is buttoned. up one side will
| Ssar,or1 h,,<tooS Tho 1nrorSAfn6 effec