Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1912-05-12

these shapes. of the head The tam must
be donned to look like anything at all. on
the head 1t is merely a big. fiat PLAGUE
of soft straw with an indeterminate look
ing crown that heaves up or caves in, &C.
cording to the way the PLAGUE Is picked
UP. Pull the shape down on the head.
however. and the PLAGUE becomes a
taunty tam with narrow. upturning
brim which presses snugly against a big.
soft crown that hugs the hair as flexibly
as would q knitted m-o'-shanter of
worsted. These hats are SO comfortable
and supple that many women are plan
ming to use them all summer for motoring
and travelling, a small cockade OF pleated
ribbon being substituted for the upstand-
ing feather ornament used early in the
season In order that the hat may be
swathed in a veil when desired.
The quat-corne dates back to the days
of lie Roi SoleiL" and is such an ador-
able shape that the wonder il how it
could have been eclipsed all this time by
the three-cornered tricorne and two-cor-
nered bicorne, both more or less familiar
shapes during the last twenty seasons
The tricorne is becoming to all faces. and
is the hat of hats for the women verging
on uncertain age" The bicorne is more
extreme, and has dash and daring
WHICH TcQulIc yOuHS idNc anu Piqudhl
expression beneath its fiattened elon-
gated brim. The bicorne illustrated is a
typical model by Reboux, and is made of
wine-colored hemp, the six short ostrich
tips which tumble forward over the brim
being in mauve and burgundy shades.
"Marquise'' Is another name for the BIZ
corne shape. for certain lovely French
marquise was once firmly welded to this
particular shape and wore 1t with the
powdere, hair and patches Of her time
The corne. as it's name implies.
has 70. irners. one at each side and
one fore md aft. The square sides rise
as high as the top of the crown and there
Is usually little ribbon cockade or
short, crisp aigrette poised on the right
side, just over the right eye. Trimmings
on the right side. rather than the LETT
side Of the hat, continue to be fashion
able. For years all hat trimmings were
perched at the left-no one knows why,
unless for the reason that the right side
Of the face is supposed to be the beauty
half and 1T was deemed advisable not 10
mass all the charm on the same side,
A very striking tricorne shape is called
the ace Of clubs. The is wide o. baim OF OF
huge straw tabs which roll up from the
face q little. One tab rises straight in
front and the others are at the sides near
the back. The hat is of black hemp and
really does resemble the card symbol rep
resenting the club ace. cluster of black
ostrich tips at the back is supposed to
be the short stem of the ace. Need
less to add, this rather bizarre chapeau
Is a French creation and appeared hrst
at Auteuil during the spring race meets.
X
Before leaving the smaller shapes for
a discussion of the characteristic summer
picture shapes a word should be given
to the smart ostrich-trimmed toques for
with nd fhpqfpr
costumes in town. The small hat has
place all its own for midsummer wear,
but that place is never in the sunlight
or, in fact, during the day at all. Many
of the handsome restaurant gowns worn
at the popular balcony and roof-garden
dining places in summer will be accom-
panied this year by chic little hats trim
med with ostrich. IL the promises Of the
millners are to be created hat of this
kind, designed by virot, is pictured Very
soft satin straw in a light silver-gray
tone is draped around high-crowned
shape which has a narrow brim. faced
with coral-colored velvet. turning back
from the face. Two thick, short plumes
one coral color and the other in shaded
grays, are massed at the back of the
crown. This smart little toque accom-
panies restaurant gown of black snot
taffeta made with an upper bodice of
black lace over white lace. The bodice
is cut square to show the lace, and straps
of pleated taffeta and black velvet cross
the shoulders. In the decolletage are laid
folds Of coral-colored chiffon which cross
in surplice effect. Black satin boots with
crystal buttons and long white silk gloves
embr oidered in gray and coral accompany
this dinner costume.
Another attractive little ostrich-trim-
med dinner hat is of white tagal with a
rolling brim faced with copenhagen blue
taffeta. The brim is caught to the crown,
over the left brow, with a pearl buckle,
and from this buckle a blue feather
matching the taffeta facing sweeps back
ward over the crown. Could anything be
more becoming to a woman with blue
eyes? Sometimes the brim of the hat is
slashed at one side of the front and the
slash is filled with ostrich plumes which
rise straight upward above the crown.
Most of these small midsummer shapes
have brims sharply turned off the face
in front. and the facing of the brim is
an important matter While crowns are
frequently of the dainty Dolly Warden
taffeta in Powered pattern, brim fac
ings are almost always plain in color
effect and the taffeta facing is selected