davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Yellow Complexion Now.
NOVELTIES THAT
GIRLS CAN MAKE

Among the dainty novelties that girls
can make are hairpin holders. The hold
ers may be swung beside the dressing ta-
BILE when in use or rolled up and tucked
away in a corner when not needed. They
are made of single strip of ribbon about
a half yard long by eight inches in width
The upper end is caught over an orange
stick of the same length as the ribbon
and equipped with short hangers of mar
row satin ribbon while the lower end is
turned upward for about fingers depth
and divided into three pockets, for long,
short and medium-sized hairpins
Another hairpin holder is in the form of
a ball crocheted in white worsted about
the body of a Japanese doll, whose head,
arms and legs protrude 10 make thls
holder pad the body of the doll into
ball shape, with masses. OF COTTON Wau-
ding into two-and-one-quarter-l diam
eter and then crochet over the mass,
taking care not to catch the cotton wad-
ding into the needle. Ribbons are then
attached to the arms ana joined some
distance above the head to form a hanger.
: Lingerie ribbon holders are made in
va rious ways One sort is much like the
pannel hairpin holder first described save
that the several pockets are placed one
above the other at the potion or the
Strin Of sash ribbon instead of straight
a onrnss II and just above the uppermost
noclsat an ivory ribbon runner fits into a
Another sort of lingerie ribbon holder
consists of two ribbon-covered cardboard
circ3as of four-inch diameter. held to-
rether by large SPOOL whose tunnel
Comes against a hole pierced in the CEN
-. f Zach By running two narrow rib
hons through this series of holes, and Sc
o,,rine two ends at opposite sides of the
ron circle and the other two ends at op-
nns;ta sides of the lower circle, the spool
will move sufficiently to allow the lingerie
ribbon which it holds to be unwound. The
same principle may be applied in the case
of three spools joining two circles. and in
that way lingerie ribbons of three colors
may be supplied.
Evening star., 1912-11-10

was very slight. but it just saved the
skirt from absolute plainness and gave
1t most modish lines Six buttons were
set on the lines of shirring-twenty-fo
buttons in all.
AS was to be expected. crepe de chlne
leaped to instant favor with the COMING
in Of draped effects. No fabric is more
beautiful than this long-familiar crepe de
chine. Now that it may be obtained in
double width it is very easy to manage
and is not beyond the reach of the aver
age pocketbook. 1t is becoming TO the
stout as we'll as the slender figure and Is
exceedingly easy to manipulate, even by
tho amateur dressmaker A charming
afternoon frock of olive-brown crepe de
chine is illustrated. This frock shows
very simple drapery at the back OF the
skirt the side cores having been cut In
Evening star., 1912-11-10

Not one woman In ten-except those liv-
ing out in country districts where the
cold is intense-now wears a WOODEN union
suit to the ankles.
The brassiere becomes more and more
popular and, indeed, so indispensable mas
this little garment now become to the
dainty woman's toilet that the long-fa-
Vored corset cover and skirt combination
bids fair to be ousted from favor. The
new brassieres are so pretty that there
is no need of donning a corset cover over
one of them, and the smart tub petticoat
with its embroidery founce reaching to
the boot top finishes out the requirement.
A practical new brassiere is pictured
dainty for everyday wear, and the bras
siere closes invisibly under fold or
pleat. The garment is not boned, but
owes it's good lines to it's perfect fit and
its neat finish. all seams being joined
with seam beading.
NightgoWns are returning to the yoke
idea, and many of the new models for
fall trousseaux have shaped yokes which
sometimes extend out to form the sleeves
Nobody dreams of wearing prim long
sleeves in a robe du mutt nowadays. and
some Of the little sleeves are very en-
bryonic affairs of lace or fine embrOid-
cry fiouncing, held together on the outer
side of the arm with ribbon. The lovely
neglige pictured is combination OF en-
broidery and val lace. The lace panels
cross a tunic and flounce of embroidery
"a new sort of embroidery with pale pink
flowers on a white ground-and around
the hips and just below the bust are set
broad insertions of pink batiste with eye
lets embroidered in white. This neglige
is mounted over palest pink silk and the
sash ends are of pink satin ribbon. A
net cap trimmed with fine embroidery
and pink ribbon matches the neglige and
the buttoned walking boot of patent
leather has been changed for pink bou-
doir slippers.
Evening star., 1912-11-10

rather wide circular form and then drawn
in fold upon fold, as the photograph
shows, the drapery being held at the
center back by a row of triple shirring
over cords. The bodice is also very sim
pie and opens in surp1ice effect over a
white satin yoke trimmed at back and
front with green glass buttons. Cream
lace frils edge the sleeves The cluster
of brown, gold and pale yellow velvet
pansies, held in the hands. Is intended
for final location at the left front of the
girdle, and with this dainty gown will
be worn buttoned boots of patent leather
with tops of kid.
The chiffon afternoon gown is a par
ticularly smart model by Paquin, and
shows very slight drapery at the back
of the knees while the paneled front gives
long lines and height. This gown is made
of the new besnard-or brick red-chiffon
combined with cream-white satin, the
panel being of the satin. This panel is
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Combining Furs.

A s furs are always expensive, the only
hope for women with small incomes
is to buy good quality in second-best furs
such as squirrel. opossum. bear. etc. These
furs are so well treated by furriers tbat
they look very expensive
Opossum. taupe. squirrel. gray astrakhan n
and chinchilla are combined with ermina
with great success. Sable and black fnY
may also be put together
Velvet and fur muffs are fashionab bIe
especially brocaded and stamped velvet
Gray with gray fox looks well. and black
with ermine. or chinchilla, or opossum
Bright rose or violet velvet with fur trim
mings will be used for evening wear on
smart occasions. but as a rule white.
black. or sober tones are chosen Wide.
soft velvet stoles. edged with fur and
lined with chiffon will be worn with such
mum, and they are usually becoming.
Evening star., 1912-11-10
MOURNING ACCESSORIES.

NRiLLS and fussiness are entirely out
i or place In mourning, and ma
terials should be of the best quail
ity. as cheap fabrics in black soon take
on grayish faded tint
There is no more beautiful fabric than
black English Grape, and it can be readily
freshened, as the threads are waterproof.
ed before being woven. There are two
finishes to this Grape, one that is brigt.
and crisp and most suitable for dresses.
and another finish that is dull and soft
and lighter of weight, and is preferred for
wells.
Grape wells are to be obtained in bean,
tiful styles with invisible hens, but manv
women object to Grape except for the
deepest mourning, and prefer in its place
a veil of Brussels net, with Grape bor-
der two inches deep all around, or a
transparent silk veil with a heavy woven
border.
In deep mourning when veil is not
draped on the hat the hat should be of a
plain black felt, trimmed with crane
folds. loops or wings. In second MOURN
ing dull silk hats with white facings are
trimmed with wings, breasts and bows
of grosgrain ribbon. Ostrich feathers and
black velvet are never permitted for any
sort of mourning.
Hemstitching. tucking and fagoting are
the self trimmings utilized in making
blouses for first mourning When All
black is not becoming close to the face
collars and cuffs of white Grape are smart.
Deep black borders are not seen on
handkerchiefs. A black monogram is in
better taste. Deep black borders on sta
have also been discarded for more
delicate trimmings.
Fur scarfs and muffs for mourning ara
lynx. Persian lamb. broadtail and Alaska
fox For coats broadtail caracal Si-
md 1pp,,
Gloves of black suede are worn for
deep mourning. Glace kid gloves in duh
finish are appropriate for second mourn
ing. In footwear walking boots, pumps
and ties are chosen from the dull-finished
feathers, and house slippers are of suede
with buckles of self material or black
metal. Plain and inconspicuous hosiery
should always be worn.
Al-white mourning is as correct as all
black, but the materials must be dead.
white without any tint of cream color.
White shoes. white silk hosiery and white
suede gloves must all correspond in tone.
Evening star., 1912-11-10

really a part of an entire cream satin
gown which drags about the feet. 1t is
rounded out deeply at the top to show a
suimpe of cream batiste embroidery and
lace on which are two folds of tangerine
net. the top of.the guimpe being finished
with a cream lace collar. Over the
white satin gown is a tunic of besnard
chiffon which stops short at either side
of the front, leaving panel OF the
satin. The edges of the besnard chiffon
are finished with soutache dyed to match
and formed into coiled discs on the white
satin. Lastly deep flounce of the bes-
nard chiffon is dropped over frock and
tunic. White embroidered silk gloves
meet the loose sleeves, and the hat OF
gold-colored plush has a long white os-
trich plume.
Evening star., 1912-11-10
For Stained Linen.

WHEN linen has become scorched in
!" the ironing the marks may be re-
moved by making a paste of fuller $
earth and white soap, moistened with q
small amount of vinegar and the Juice
from boiled onion. When this mixture
is spread upon the stains they will quick
ly disappear. and no stain will be visible
after the linen is washed In some cases
it will be found sufficient to rub over
the place that has been scorched half a
raw onion. After this treatment the
linen should be soaked in cold water. and
after it has soaked for some time the
stain will most likely have disappeared.
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Evening Coiffures.

EVENING coiffures are either caps made
- of beads, lace or metal net, with del
icate touches of fur and flowers and lace
or else they are aigrettes with a jeweled
clasp. Simple coiffures may be of rib
bon, with bow or flower put On as q
band, and beautiful women may allow
themselves the most wonderful eastern
girdles-ropes of beads witn a magnificent
aigrette or paradise plume sticking out
ward and upward.
Evening star., 1912-11-10
DA18e9/auQragEInbrou2fs1
f0rZ Infinite GHEzne7Ie@

yROUSSEAU plans in the autumn
always renew interest in lin
gerie belongings, and every
woman, after the absorbing
business of selecting the new
winter wearables for outer wear has been
satisfactorily accomplished. likes to re-
new her stock of under wearabes-or
dainty beau dessous, as the French
woman calls them-according to latest
trousseau notions.
All lingerie garments adhere 10 the
slim, simple lines necessary under cling
ing gowns. Not the least suspicion of a
gather is allowed at the waist and belts
and buttons have long ago gone the way
of flannel petticoats. knitted camisoles
and other monstrosities of the past
wherewith woman built out her form in
the interests OF a preSumable protection
from the cold. 1t has been proved that
Evening star., 1912-11-10

Skirt Itself having pleateu of PlaiII io"
er portion set on sham which was
made of some cotton lining material Or
IL the wearer could afford it-of silk. In
the early eighties the "sham" was built
out at the top over a hustle: at the end
of this decade reeds or long flexible
half-hoops run through castings. distended
the sham beneath the overskirt dra-
perry. Those who can remember as far
back as this period recall how the tapes
that tied the ends OF the reeds were for
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Handy Writing Desk.

IF one does not feel like buying a desk.
a small table, covered with rep to
match the wall paper. will answer as a
good substitute. Shelves could be placed
under the table. and a valance plated
around the edges to cover them. A very
good piece of leather colored rep would
be in good taste, and the blotter pad
could be bound with real leather. It
would not require a large outlay for suf-
ficient material to make a very dainty
desk
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Notes and Motions
Baby's Cold Weather Dolly.

THE adorable doll which accompanies
baby out for her daily airing may
have a nicy disposition for all her loVe-
ableness-as you viii ascertain II you lay
her china or bisque cheek against your
own some January morning, anu iois
after baby has been brought indoors ana
cuddled to sleep in her warm Ht,ie peu'
the beloved doll. hugged to hef pieast, breast
will retain it's icy coldneSS. Ohe mouHeI
hit upon the notion of removing uoily >
sawdust insides and substituting niue
hot water bottle. the bottle beins hileu
ca ch morning before the mofnlnS arms,
and each evening When paps n,,'
dolly's-bedtime came. NOW lhese VAIN
hearted dollies are to be obtained, dressed
i'm most tasteful and fashionable style, al
the women's exchanges ana the pdps
possessed of such a treasure runs no uan-
ger of catching Group or cold from her
boon companion.
Protecting White Gloves.
EVERY woman knows how quickly
Z pair of white gloves will become soil
ed when the hands are thrust constantly
into a muff An all days wear without
the muff will not soil the gloves as
speedily as an hours wear when the
hands are being put into the muf ana
drawn ou. constantly. A speclai mum
pocket for use on occasions Wnen White
gloves are worn, is a. great convenience
Make this pocket of a strip OF Whlle SILK
as wide as the lining of the muff, and
long enough TO form pocket SIX Inches
wide when the ends of the silk strip nave
been .sewed together. This pocket Is IN
serted in the muf and caught IN place
at either end with small stitches or tiny
black safety pins and the hands are
thrust into the white silk pocket instead
of into the muff lining. The ENDS Oh the
pocket should be hemmed and gathered
slightly over cord and narrow frlli
of lace will add daintiness.
Yellow Complexion Now.
beaches and cream compilations are
! no longer the fashion in Paris and
the dead white face with burning lips has
entirely gone out. Just now the olive,
oriental complexion with red mouth
and slightly shadowed eyes Is the thing.
and beauty experts are deriving much
profit from the sale of new olive COM
plexion SpecialtleS.
Evening star., 1912-11-10

and high-necked model, intended for
afternoon wear, and is built of char
meuse in a new shade of tangerine yell
low or rust color. The chiffon is in the
same warm tone with bold pattern in
duh gold, and this metallic chiffon is
draped most gracefully over the lower
part of the skirt on one side of the cos
tune, the drapery being carried upward
Evening star., 1912-11-10

and graceful in texture as well as splen-
did in coloring is metallic chiffon, which
is simply double width chiffon in new.
wonderful colorings splashed over with
great oriental figures in dull silver or
gold. One of the draped costumes illus
trated today shows this splendid metallic
chiffon in combination with plain char
meuse. The costume is a long -sleeved
Evening star., 1912-11-10

heated TO midsummer heat and mammoth
furs are the mode out of doors there
seems little reason why women should
puhoIe themselves up as was perhaps
not
Just now embroidery trimmings are
the whim of fashion. and laces are used
only to set off the beautiful needlework.
The machine-embroidered patterns, many
of them done on hand looms abroad, are
wonderfully beautiful. initiating the dis
tlngulshed hand-wrought effects with
great fidelity, and some of these en-
broider1es are distinguished in themselves,
prices running up to four and five dollars
the yard for some of the exclusive new
patterns. Embroidery-trim petticoats
are used even with dancing frocks,
though the embroidery flounce is of the
finest possible character. and is mounted
directly on the petticoat without any
underruff1e, a ribbon-t. threaded beading
separating petticoat and fiounce. Dane
ing petticoats have very deep fiounces of
exquisitely sheer embroidery, set on tops
OF nainsook or batiste, and usually a
frill of narrow lace is put under the edge
of the scallops to give a very dainty
look around the ankles. These deep
iounces are set on without any fullness,
or there is slight fulness added in the
way OF pin tucks. pettlcOat of this
sort is pictured. Flounce and batiste top
are joined with seam beading and rib
bon is run below this-through button
holed slashes worked by hand in the deep
nounce. 4 frill of val lace edges the
lower edge of the 1ounce. Such petit
coats fall to the ankle and show when
the clinsing dancing gown Of satin is
lifted. but the day petticoat, worn under
the tailored skirt, falls no lower than
the top of the buttoned walking boot,
and is not supposed to show at all 1t
has top of cambria or fine muslin.
beautifully fitted over the hips, and a
rather narrow embroidery dounce finishes
il at the lower edge, which is never
more than a yard and three-Guarters
wide. These short petticoats do not col
lect the dust and mud of the pavement,
as longer ones used 10 do. and because
they are more practical and much more
dainty than the silk petticoat, which
never visits the washtub they are being
| taken up again for street wear.
Under the petticoat is the culotte
drawer. which is made of soft nainsook
and fits as perfectly as riding breeches:
| that is, there are no gathers over the
| hip, and the lower edge is drawn in To
| the knee either by groups of pin tucks
or by a rubber run through beading.
] Ruffies do not appear on the new culotte
Evening star., 1912-11-10

7 is almost twenty
five years since
draperies ruled in
fashions domain.
In those days
back in the late
eighties e v e ry
modish skirt had
an overskirt. the
overskirt b e In 6
caught up in some
manner of drapery
or other, and the
Dlafn 1psu.
Evening star., 1912-11-10

drawer, and il any trimming is used it is
an ungathered edge of scallop and dot
embroidery or a narrow bit of lace. Some
women have taken up with enthusiasm
the new chemise-pantalon which is made
Of tub material, and which includes a
Evening star., 1912-11-10

one may be quite as warm and much
more comfortable in lighter, thinner gar
ments than We're deemed possible twenty
years ago, and since all houses are now
Evening star., 1912-11-10
Short Cuts for Housekeepers
Freshening the Wardrobe.

two portions, one to wash in. the other (,
rinse In. Pin to fiat surface to dry an,
air.
Evening star., 1912-11-10

heated to midsummer heat and mammoth
furs are the mode out of doors there
seems little reason why women should
bundle themselves up as was perhaps
necessary in the days when furnaces were
not.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1912-03-27
NEW REMEMBERING PLAN
Is GIVEN APPROVAL

'The plan TO re-number the streets
on the hundred-to-a-block system was
again discussed in meeting of the
council committee on ordinances
Tuesday night. William b. Wreford.
assistant secretary OF the Board OF
Commerce, explained that the original
plan for renumb .=ing had been
changed slightly after a conference
with the city engineer. The number
ing OF all north and south streets
would begin at the river while the
numbering of east and west streets
would begin at Woodward.ave II the
street did not begin at Woodward-ave
the number of the first building on the
street where 1t began would be
found to correspond with the number
of buildings the same distance from
Woodward-ave. on any other parallel
street.
Among those who appeared before
the committee, all favoring the plan
were the following: l.. G.. Mccormick.
manager of the Postal Telegraph com
pany; r. c. Shipman, real estate deal
err: Harry w. Leech, who gave a de.
scription of the plan as worked out ia
Cleveland, where he formerly lived:
l.. W. Smith, G. RI. Goyer. J. A. Fraser,
representing the Detroit Federation
OF Labor; Frank ID. Hovey. John c.
Metzner, Retail Grocers' association:
X. VI. Grindley, A. J. Farmer. r. g..
Lambrecht and Howard Boomer. If
the Board OF Commerce REMEMBERING
committee.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1912-03-27
CORLISS CRITICISES
INCINERATION PLAN

Former Congressman John b. Cor
liss, at one time connected with the
Detroit Reduction Co.. has some sharp
criticisms to make of the recon-
mendation OF the Board of Com
merce, urging the construction OF an
incinerating plant, an appropriation
for which has been included in the
estimates. Mr.. Corlss has sent a
letter to Homer Warren in which ne
said that it was foolish for the city
TO burn up the grease and other
values that are saved out Of the gar
bage by the present method. He
stated that the files of the Board OF
Commerce contain plenty Of evidence
that the plant could be operated prot
itably and successfully by the city Il
political influence were eliminated.
The Board Of Commerce did prac-
ticaly nothing when the matter OF
purchasing the plant was before the
city, and the common council, with
its usual lack of experience and bust
ness sagacity, adopted very waste
full course" he says. las a result
the city is now paying nearly three
times as much for the collection OF
garbage as it did under the old con
tract"
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1912-03-27
WHERE LIFE Is
WORTH LIVING

John Luska, Ma. I.20 81. Aubin-aye.
reports fo the police that SOMEONE
stole 400 from his room, Tuesday,
Mrs. Y. =. RickeI, No. 200 seyburn-
ave-. slipped ON the sidewalk in front
OF Ma. 20 Elmhurst- Tuesday,
hacturing her right leg. She was
taken home.
Postmaster Homer Warren hHs returns
ed from q short vacation trip t0 At
lantic city. Mr. Warren cut short
his trip and returned home when he
caught a severe cold. The attack Is
not serious.
Fire of unknown origin totally
destroyed vacant cottage at Will
lard and MaNwell-aves, owned by =.
M. smith, at $3.50 o'clock, Wednesday
morning. The loss Is estimated at
$500
Fred Poee, No. 10 CIayton-st.. reported
"a the police TINT when he went Ia
investigate noise at the rear door
|. OF his home, at 10 o'clock, Tuesday
night, some unidentified person fired
foul shots at him.
Pntrolman Harold ROughley, who WINS
fined $50 by Justice JeRrIes ON a
charge OF assaulting a prisoner, won
his appeal to the recorders court, n
jury i'm Judge Phelan's court bring
ing In II verdict OF not guilty, Tues
day afternoon.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1912-03-27
WISH MUNICIPAL LEAGUE
CONTINUED SUCCESS
IITnSAN


There was nothing else for the
executive committee to do but accept
my resignation" said J. L. Hudson
when advised that this action had
been taken.
Asked II he had anything further
TO add to the statement he issued
a few days ago, IL connection with his
quitting the league. Mr. Hudson said
II have said all there is to say.
couldn't continue with the league
when / found that the members oil
the executive committee were inclin
ed to approve of the stand taken by
Mr. Pratt, the secretary, against me
on public questions. However, have
no fault to find with the league;
with it continued success There Is
field for II in Detroit, and IL can &C
complish a great deal of good"
Anthony Pratt, whose resignation