davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1912-07-07

hem OF navy blue satin and little ball but
tons Of the same satin are used In trim
ming effect at the edge Of the cluny in
sertion. There is also wide fiat bow
Of the blue satin at the back Of the waist
line and the graceful hat of gray hemp
with a gray feather is faced with blue
satin. The new buttoned oxfords OF
white buckskin are worn with this frock.
Cerise satin is combined most effective
ly with another lingerie frock for formal
afternoon or restaurant wear. TINT
frock, of thin white cotton voile, has a
little coat Of machine made cluny in a
bold all-over pattern. band OF the lace
borders the skirt, but 1t is set under In
stead of over the voile. the pattern show
ing through the sheer fabric in soft. beau
tiful effect. At the edge Of the skirt is
a five-inch hem of cerise satin and the
coat has revers, girdle and deep cuffs of
cerise, the reverS opening widely to show
q chemisette Of pintucl1ed voile. The hat
accompanying this attractive little frock
Is Of shirred net and jouy taffeta with a
trimming OF cyclamen blossoms. The
parasol Of jouy taffeta has a deep lace
border matching the lace on the skirt.
White silk gloves embroidered in white
and smart buttoned oxfords of black
satin, worn with cerise silk stockings,
complete the costume.
This fancy for bright colored stock
1QgS grows more ana more uOllCedDle,
but the colored silk stockings are SO thin
that they never seem too vivid They are
not worn with white frocks unless there
is skirt hem of satin, as in the voile
and cluny costume just described, to ef-
feet harmony between stocking and gown.
The buttoned boot still retains it's hold
for formal promenade and street wear.
but with thin summery frOcks on the
veranda or lawn one notes a preference
for the buttoned oxfords or the colonial
pump. The latter is trim and stately,
with a high Cuban heel and buckle at
the front More coquettish is the button
ed oxford with it's pointed little toe, its
trtmness and arched lines and it's French
heel. Some of these oxfords are eXtrav-
agantly frivolous and are made of satin
with buttons of rhinestones or pearl. The
black satin ones with Louis heels and
smoked pearl buttons are particularly
fetching.
most interesting example of the fad
for little coats and mantles of contrast
ing fabrics with lingerie frocks is in
stanced in a charming bridesmaid gown
shown in one of the illustrations. Baby
blue and pink were the colors combined
| in the bridesmaids frocks at this we'd
| ding, and as the bride and her attendants
were all very young and very pretty the
, infantle color scheme-carried out by a
skillful dressmaker-was charming.
| Over straight frocks Of lace, with deer
| skirt f1ounces headed by quilting of the
lace, fell long coats of semi-direc
| toire type and of the very palest blue
| color The interesting thing about these
| coats was the fact that they We're fash
| ioned of broad self-striped satin ribbon
with picot edge. The photograph shows
| how the ribbon was managed in order tc
Evening star., 1912-07-07
Short Cuts for Housekeepers

which in former days was merely . place
to put things for which there was NJ
present use, and 1t was thought that a
place made for such purposes need not be
light or airy, and SO cellars were often
built without windows or with very poor
ones.
One housekeeper. who has put up with
dark cellar for years, using a candle TO
find her way around in 1t. recently called
in a carpenter, and in two hours her
cellar was bright. and there was a circu-
lation of air through the apartment, dry
ing it and tending to keep 1t sweet Many
Of the so-called mysterious inroads Of
disease no doubt arise from dirty cellars
Inspect your cellar. If IL is dark and
close, have windows put in Ii, and if IL is
dirty clean it. Get rid OF unnecessary
stuff that has been accommodating for
years, for which one has not yet found
a use. Have shelves erected for fruit
and canned. vegetables. and keep the
cellar clean. A little air-Slacked lime
busted over the cellar floor will absorb
! moisture and prevent mold. The lime
has purifying effect, and will help to
keep vegetables and fruit stored in the
cellar sweet, dry and fresh. IL the cellar
way is dark. paint the walls and lower
step white, so that you can easily see
your way.
Evening star., 1912-07-07
The Parasol an Important Item Of the Lawn
COStume---- Graceful Hat StreamerS Add a
Note Of PiCtureSQueneSS Little Jackets
and MantleSin BRIGHT JolorS aFeature.

cealed drawing strings which may be
loosened or pulled up so that the pan
nier becomes as individual posses
SIGN as though it had been draped on
ones own figure by an expensive
modfste.
Jouy materials-or Dolly Warden
fabrics, as these flowered taffetas and
chiffons are called-are cropping up
everywhere. and are a pleasant variety
from the plain colors of the past few
seasons. Even lowered lawns and or
candies are appearing, and much ad-
mired gown at the Pre- Catalin recently
was of lavender fowered organdie
worn with little coat of lavender tat
feta buttoned with rhinestone buttons.
The organdie skirt had at least six
little ruff1es. hemmed with the tiniest
of hens and placed at equal distances
above each other, almost to the hip.
Each ruff1e Tapped at the front and was
buttoned across with a rhinestone but
ton. The bodice did not show under
the gay little silk coat. which had long
tails decorated with the rhinestone
buttons, and there was wonderful,
huge hat of lavender hemp trimmed
with shaded violet plumes. This de-
lightful frOck was accompanied by
gray satin boots with pearl buttons
and. by the by, gray is just now the
Evening star., 1912-07-07

the spic- -spanness of several slip-ons day
will add to baby's happiness and lovable-
ness and won't matter much as far as
laundry is concerned. Soft oilcloth In this
pattern might be a useful suggestion for
some occasions.
This apron goes over the head and the
tape ties are the easiest solution of the
fastening problem. Straps of the mate
rial sewed one edge and buttoned on
the other are good. too If the apron Is;
to he used more as a dress there may be
several straps along the sides to the bot
tom. 1t is described to cover entirely un-
derclothing or rompers-buttonholes being
worked along one edge, and buttons set
meath the other edge. To aud to the
dress effect tops may be heightened into
armcaps or little sleeves.
Il
Then the pockets. Don't forget the
pockets in the play apron.. What is play
without a pocket? Put big strong ones
at the sides or across the front. wherever
there is an excuse for them-and into
them will go many Of the treasures that
help to make the joyousness of the sum-
mer play day.
For the seashore and the mountain
brooks children's Unsuitable thirst for
water padding can be indulged to the
full with little garment simply and
silly made. and at minimum of ex-
pense. pair of rubberized silk wading
rompers slip on quickly with no fasten-
as much fun for the little folks. The
rompers sup on quickly with no fasten-
Evening star., 1912-07-07

straight skirt, buttoning down the center
front as far as the knee with amethyst
and rhinestone buttons of mammoth size.
From the knee down there was row of
smart little black velvet bows. The bod
ice, cleverly fitted without pleats yet in
pleasingly fun lines, was buttoned up the
front az far as the bust with the big glass
buttons. From there up to the throat
We're set the little black bows, though on
the top Of the bodice they rested, not
against the 1oWered material of the frock,
but against a fat pleated jabot of sheer
batste edged with iiet lace. This pleat-
ed jabot spread across the top Of the
waist and extended two inches out over
each shoulder seam. II was met by a
wide batiste and tilet collar which stop
ped short at the shoulder seams and
Evening star., 1912-07-07
NOTES AND NOVELTIES.

sachet pockets come in white and black
and should be an admirable addition &c
the summer wardrobe.
Spun Glass Hair Ornaments.
NOTHING prettier in coiffure orna-
~ ments for evening use has beer
brought out than the spun glass aigrette
which quivers and scintillates in the light
and moves in graceful accord with every
movement of it's wearers head. The
aigrette is attached to the top Of two
prong hairpin and a tiny rhinestone
studded hummng-bird poses at the base
of the aigrette. These spun glass aig
rettes come in pink, green and laVen'
der as we'll as white, though the color
shows only in opalescent glints; and the
ornaments are not as expensive as one
ght imagine-from the prettiness o1
them-for they are offered in the shops al
a little over a dollar.
The Expensive Lorgnette.
WHY is it that lorgnettes cost so much
" Every other sort of ornament Is
brought out in cheaper form at a popu-
lar price and as for the eyeglass, that
staid older sister of the gay lorgn ette
one may have pair OF eyeglasses mount
ed as cheaply as one desires. But a tidy
sum must be paid for even the simplest
silver lorgnette and when one considers
a gold mounted bauble of this character
the price is appalling. The lOrgnette is
really a most useful little article. Hung
at the end Of handsome chain 1t is both
ornamental and much more convenient
to get at in hurry than a pair Of glasses
which must be slipped out of a case, and
possibly the handbag opened to get the
case. The newest idea in lOrgnette lux
ury is a tiny glove lorgnette that folds
Ic iy,x1 khA In,
Of the glove. For reading theater pro-
grams and church hymnbooks without un-
ostentatiously proclaiming to ones neigh
Dor that ones eyes have failed. the little
glove lorgnette is delightfuly convenient
Seed Pearls Again.
n addition to the list of old fashions
IA revived is seed pearl jewelry. OLD
timey enough to have stepped out of the
drawer of great-grandmother's dresser
are some Of the rope necklaces. tasse
earrings and fringed brooches displayed
in the shops now. Seed pearls look like
nothing so much as little homeopathic
pills-or pellets. should one say?-glueC
to settings Of gold or silver. Earrings
have button tops covered with the tiny
dead white seed pearls, and dangling
tassels which almost touch the shoulder
The rope necklaces made OF hundreds o,
little seed pearl pellets strung on tnrea0s
and twisted or braided together, cos
from s25 up and pair of tassled earrings
may be had for about $50.
The Seaside Fringe for the Bathing
Girl.
KYO more dank lank wisps Of hail
~ struggling over the faceafter an i'm
mersion in an Unexpectedly big billoW.
The canny bathing girl now tucks her
Evening star., 1912-07-07
c52M0 .2ZzxAFQRE@

ms Out me sus ltl4uvf Vut.o.4s - me top,
so even the tiniest tot will need very little
help to get ready for the mornings fun.
If the garment is TO be made at home
the rubberzed silk is treated just as
other material. sewed with cotton or
silk thread. edged. hemmed. faced or
bound with tape. Edges on which there
is no strain may he pinked.< The sus-
penders may he of self-material doubled
or lined. and stitched, or of heavy sus-
pender elastic. A bag of the silk will
hold the rompers and the shoes and a
towel, and encourage the little man or
the little woman to carry his own kit
and take care of his own garments.
OF course. heavy cotton. khaki, duck.
Evening star., 1912-07-07

hung far down the back. The sleeves
came to the wrist and were buttoned up
the outer side with two rows Of the anne
thyst and rhinestone buttons.
More and more long sleeves are noted
each day They are undeniably hot and
sensible women will not take them up for
everyday wear until cooler weather sets
in: but their very unsuttability to the sea-
son and their difference from the eternal
elbow sleeve worn with a long glove
make them noticeable and chic, and used
with the w-collared bOdices they are
peculiarly quaint and picturesque Much
more suitable for midsummer wear are
the dainty elbow sleeve. which this sea-
son come over the bend OF the elbow by
a good two inches and are met by long
silk gloves The longer the gloves the
smarter the effect, for the short long
glove drawn taut as a drumhead over a
plump arm is bourgeois and atrocious-in
fashionable estimation. The glove must
be long enough to wrinkle well on the
arm and suggest no effort at economy
The embroidered silk gloves are of beau
tiful quality and the embroideries. in self
or subdued contrasting colors. give an ad-
ditional touch Of richness to the silken
fabric.
1t is interesting to note the number OF
satin gowns that have been making first
bows at Longchamps all through the
early summer. Taffeta was brought for
ward with such a trumpetry of heralding
and has been so pushed to the front by
dressmakers. shopkeepers and fashion re-
porters that one has almost forgotten
about satin; but many of the exclusive
models turned out for Longchamps by the
great couturiers have been of sa atin-and
especially of dark blue and brown satin.
A particularly interesting frock by Callot
was worn at Longchamps one afternoon
in June. 1t was of brown satin with dull
pink roses, suggested by their outline
rather than by definite pink spots on the
brown surface. The skirt was narrow.
and short enough to show brown satin
buttoned boots beneath: and over 1t was
a long tunic caught up and under just
enough at the front to suggest moder-
ate pannier drapery. The waist had long
sleeves and a deep fichu arrangement Of
cream net at the front. the back being
covered with a fat collar Of the cream
net, the fronts Of the collar forming the
fichu.
Touches of satin are also added to
many lingerie and lace models and the
Evening star., 1912-07-07
Beaten Silver a New Wedding Gift
Fad.

Beaten Silver a New Wedding Gift
Fad.
THE modern bride will not cherish her
! tea set of sparkling polished silver
half as tenderly as she will a tankard
or Jug of the fashionable new beaten
silver which resembles the hand-wrought
pewter made by the peasants of Belgium
and Brittany, except that the beaten Sill
yer is whittier than the grayish pewter.
Some of these beaten silver articles look
like nothing so much as ordinary silver
that has been used as playthlng Tor the
baby and is banged, scratched and mo-
bled by sharp little teeth. 1he new silver
comes in quaint shapes-chunky jugs.
plates, bowls and small pieces for salt
and pepper.
Harlequin Boots the Latest Foot
wear Craze.
NTY lady's new boots are half black and
1v4 half whIte-the white portion being
on the outer side Of the foot and the
black sides coming together over the
ankles. There is no division between
vamp and buttoned upper part, the boot
being-so to speak-a 'two-gore model,
with seams down the center front and
the other of white bucksldn. The heels
are white and also the buttons, whsch
run up the outer side of the boot in a
straight line. Another new footwear rad
is for boudoir use and is in the shape OF
distracting mules OF Irish crochet lined
with pale pink blue satin The sole
and perilously high Louis heel are COW
cred with the satin and the Irish lace
wells the dainty pointed satin toe
Lace Jewelry Now.
IRISH crochet bar pins and hat pins are
ready to make summer costumes more
dainty and attractive. The pin, made Of
metal, is covered with closely crocheted
lace so that the metal shows through only
occasionally in fieeting CLEAN. The
white lace pins give the last touch OF
fresh white summer neatness to white
frock or tailored suit of serge or mohair
and it seems fitting, when all the costume
| includ .ng the buttoned boots, is snow
| white. that the hat pins and jabot pir
! should be white also The pins come ir
| round. oval and oblong shapes and il
very long, bar-pin styles and the Irisf
| crochet mesh is ornamented with the
| tiny crocheted roses which make this lace
/ SO pretty.
The Sachet Shield Is New.
KTOST women will appreciate new
| AVA contrivance which makes for extra
| daintiness of the midsummer toilet
| This is dress shield provided with g
| pocket in which may be slipped a small
! sachet. The pocket is on the inner side
of the shield and If the sachet is very
| fat, no bulk will be added to the waist
There are also pockets shaped like q
| shield, but with single flap, which may
/ be sewed under the armhole of bodice
when shields are not worn. These shield
Evening star., 1912-07-07

nest have picked up the pannler
models more because of their interest
and oddity than because they take
the novelty seriously as an established
mode The detachable pannier Is built
of striped taffeta or tissue, Of thin soft
silk serge or of jouy taffeta. and is
attached TO belt so that it may be
whipped over any narrow, straight
skirt of the familiar hobble genus.
when-presto!-a bona fide pannier
costume is Immediately achieved. The
pannier drapery is effected by con-
Evening star., 1912-07-07
Skirt Hangers.

TSEFUL and attractive skirt hangers
~ for the traveller can be made Of
pieces Of ribbon four inches in length,
and rather large nickel rings which are
closely crocheted over with silk the color
of the ribbon. The ribbon In neatly
sewed to one of the rings. the other end
being hemmed over safety pin. Two
of these are needed for each skirt, the
rings to be hung over hooks in the closet.
The little hangers may also be used for
coats.
Evening star., 1912-07-07

own fluffily waved tresses safely under a
a secure rubber bathing cap and provides
for an encounter with the frolicsome
waves with a fringe of natural-looking G
curlS, Sewed along the inner edge of
her becoming bathing cap of silk, worn
over the hubber affair that protects the
coiffure from salt water. The artificial
fringe may be pulled into limp lank
strings by the big billow, but directly one
sits in the sun, it curls and fluffs up
beautifully again, without any worry
about curling tongs or injury to the nat
ural hair from sun or salt water.
Love-Tap Marbles Instead of Con-
fetti Now.
IT he very latest carnival idea is the
love-tap marble which tossed by an
expert hand is sure to hit the cheek 1t is
aimed at Even if the marble hit by mis-
take an eye or an ear it can do no harm,
for it is made of the thinnest possible
pyroxylin and bounces back. having in
flfcted the most delicate '1ove-tap' in
the world. These marbles come in va
rious gray colors and are being used
now in the Paris restaurants when gay
parties are under way. They will prob
ably appear at Coney Island about carni-
val time, and will add much to the fun
and frolic Of the week.
Again the Old-Fashloned Hassock.
THE hassock was once feature OF
l every well regulated drawing room
girl, out calling with her mamma-in
fact. it gave woman a youthful look
just to sit with Embraced back upon one
of these low seats, never sought by the
matron or the dowager because of their
Aico <ioa
turned and one sees them in the most
aristocratic drawing rooms. They are,
of course, upholstered to match the fur
niture and come in round, square, OBJ
meath. SO that they may be rolled easily
about.
Old Lace and Its Uses.
old and rare lace is no longer hidden
- away with lavender in grandmother $
cedar chest The practical woman of to-
day Is quick to see the advantages of a
piece of the old material, and she is dig
ging UP the treasured bit of finery to
use for her own immediate pleasure. The
real lace handkerchief that was prob
ably a part of the grandmothers trous-
seau makes a very modern little boudoir
cap. A frill of gold lace or a pleating of
yelloWtsh valencfenneS, knot of pink
ribbon or nosesay of satin flowers. and
the cap is a dream.
Old lace collars are having the great
est kind Of vogue, and even fans are
being covered with rare old lace The
tea apron has come into it's own again
and no matter how beautiful the gown.
the frilly lace apron has it's place Then
II there Is enough of the old lace in the
treasure chest one may have things to
match-theater caps and muffs, for in
stance
A place for old lace can be found on
almost everything worn by a woman, and
the older the lace the better it is suited
for wear, providing 1t is not mutilated
to any extent and has been kept away
from ravaging insects.
Evening star., 1912-07-07

1ERILY this is the day of sensible
out-of-door clothing for little
NJ girls and boys. The wardrobe
for the child's out-of-door life
has shaped itself to his ease
and comfort and the freedom of his devel-
opment. and best to this, 1t has evolved
to meet the mothers needs. for the simple
practical play aprons mean great saw
ing of labor In the sewing room, and they
help wonderfully 10 curtail the summer
laundry expense.
Sand pinafores and play aprons in un-
limited varieties are found In the shops
now and form an indispensable adjunct
TO the little girls wardrobe. The shapes
are invariably simple, the material dura-
BILE and the garments have touch OF
tfnobtrusive trimming for prettiness.
Heavy galatea has been used TO make the
apron shown. gray with straps and pip
ings Of the old-fashioned red muslin. Nat
ural-colored linen with featherstitchine
of red embroidery cotton is cornbina-
tIon that is always attractive and becom-
iug TO children. Then there are ginG-
Evening star., 1912-07-07

Sleeves are gradually becoming fuller
and fuller. Before very long we shall
have returned to the lego mutton sleeve
with slight moderations) of other days.
Bell sleeves, too, are coming slowly but
surely to the fore. A favorite style is
the elbow sleeve made fairly loose and
trimmed with full lace ruffie that falls
very long at the back OF the arm and Is
cut rather short in front
Evening star., 1912-07-07

the test of practical requirements and
stands in the champion class for general
usefulness. One straight piece of goods.
doubled. shaped at the neck and Shout
ders-the making of 1t is the simplest
thing in the world even for the amateur
dressmaker. Then think of the ironing.
Just spread it out fiat and-presto, and
Evening star., 1912-07-07

NE of the. most
~asting things
in the Paris shops
just nov. t.: the
detachable p a n
n j e r. W o m e n
who h g V e ru n
over to Paris for
a little May and
J u n e shopping
before the New
port season COM
mences in ear
Evening star., 1912-07-07

The very latest style in bathing dresses
il you please. have narrow rufnee Of silk
around the bottom of the skirt and also
for q finish to the short elbow-length
sleeves.
Evening star., 1912-07-07

Two examples Of satin and lingerie fab
ric combined are illustrated today. One
frock of fine embroidered white batiste
is trimmed with very handsome cluny in
sertion, the insertion suggesting a little
apron motif at the front and an elongated
yoke motif, the shoulder space within the
lace yoke being Of pintucking. This
frock, simple enough in line, but very
distinctive in material, has a two-inch
Evening star., 1912-07-07

contrast Of the dark satin with the lacey
fabric is most effective, and also gives the
touch Of formality appropriate in cos
tune intended for ceremonious afternoon
wear.
Evening star., 1912-07-07

A little frock of pale blue lawn sprin-
Killed. with mauve roses was noted the
other day on a club veranda in Westches-
ter, and as the woman who wore it has
recently brought back from Paris at least
four trunks full of lovely clothes. the as
sumption was that this lowered frock
was an authoritative Paris creation. 1t
was exceedingly simple and had a
Evening star., 1912-07-07
White SdtIn and
Crochet nacpInne Modish Comb nation

grand chic in footwear. The dainty
gray satin boot or huttoned oxford is
always matched by silk stockings Of
the same dovelike shade, though with
black boots and oXfords colored stock
ings are often seen.
Evening star., 1912-07-07

denim or gingham will suggest its use
fulness when it is to be dry fun in the
grass or sand or country dust. In fact,
some sort of rompers for all the year
round are sure to come in handy"
Evening star., 1912-07-07

NTO more dank lank wisps Of hair
~ struggling over the faceaftsr an i'm
mersion in an Unexpectedly big billow.
The canny bathing girl now tucks her