The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1912-09-15
The Newest Thing in
Clothes.

NIB ana ny TINS time openings VIII be
In full SIS ms Already some OF tho
less secrstive importers are giving to
the elect flimpses OF muoh that win
figure in these openings. end as for the
general buyers, the town has swarmed
with them for weeks past
The lover Of fashions. or rather Of
the things that 90 to make UP fash
ions. who misses the nrst sklrmishes
on the seasons airing line loses d good
deal of enjoyment After the dullros.
or midsummer, when the smartest
frooks. no matter how bew!tchins. are
like a tale that has been told. wnen
real novelties are az rare rs the ,todo
in the srops. and when only the occas-
ional advance showngs in the whole
sale Embellishments and the runors
anent nodas 20 come arc of interest to
the students OF fashion changes there
is something stimulating about the stir
that runs through the part Of the
I world concerned with womans dress
when August slips into September.
Through late August there has been
a Tuurmur In the air like the tuning
UP OF Instruments before an orches-
ira finds speech. but with September
vague sounds grow into music, Vague
rumors crystallze into definite modes.
Some OF The modes may not suggest
melody. one must not strain meta
phor too far. And some not altogeth-
er meiodious are OF the rag-time var
iety. but tho whole, the season
promises we'll. and there will undoubt-
edly be large percentage of wear
able frocks SHOWN at the openings
along with tho spectacular models that
arc a concession to the taste Tor CON
spicuous effects prevalent among Ger
tain all too large classes of women.
The most signal trumphs and tho
hopeless failures IN the new models.
Il one is TO trust TO the early show
Ing, win be associated with drapery.
1t is always test. this drapery.
touchstonc BY which the artist may un-
1ailingly be differentiated from the
bungler, and whenever. as now. drap-
cry becomes interestingly important a
distinguishing feature OF the new fash
ion, there is trouble ahead for those
who make frocks and FOR those who
wear thcrn.
Draperics are less bizarre less try
Ing. 10 the nsure than they were in
the spring when bouffant painters were
launched. hut they arc no less diff
cult OF achievement The painter OF
the spring was so extreme that ono
hardly expected it 20 he becoming. but
tho drapcry OF the autumn essays TO
be graceful. becoming as well as chic
IT swathcs the figure In lowing yet
clinglng folds It leaves "a comparatlve-
" straight stlhouottc. but breaks into
| odd fnllnosscs within that outline.
French rrocks OF silver nrocade.
Some OF tho new models arc nttlo
4
irocks that at nrst sight seems dis
! tnctly familiar, but wnon one ex-
aminos them ono usually finds subtle
differences between them and the
straight scant. one piece trottlng
rocks OF last season. Tho outline may
have changed little. bur plaits have
crept into tho skirt. or little ripping
folds appear somewhere IN the skirt
length. or perhaps II is merely slight
~ greater breadth Ia the linn straight
falling skirt mat works the differences
twiAt the now suit and the old one
some canny women who last sprins
read the handwriting on the wall cor
rectly VIII come back to town wear
/ ing spring suits of frocks quite in the
autumn pictures No, the radical pan
niers Thoy have passed as they were
| bound to pass. without having reached
the majority. but having accomplished
their purpose and blazcd the way for
/ less aggressive drapery and fulIness
piauant pannior models models show
ing the short bounant painter are stin
| shown hT certain makers but rather
rs period frocks than In an effort
TO make them dominate present day
fashions
on the other hand everywhere ono
sees oohoes of tho panther attenueted
echoes draper!cs that ono can hardly
call PAINTERS. set thoy hold hint OF
pannier origin or inspiration.
These draporles fall long and limp,
arc drawn away but slightly from tho
front or are caught up but a ,rlflc
! here or there.
sun there is tho tendency to foot
! line narrower than the linc above it.
/ though Ia realits She new skirt may
I have added foot width. straight falling.
fatty pressed pla OF limp folds. ~
flare, save in extreme period models.
I but comfortable width for motion ana
{ opportunity FOR the use OF moro ma
/ tcrial, and above this clnging foot full
ness deftly draped folds
or perhaps the whole skirt is plait-
ed. or has u plated section. or is trim
med IN scant nounces. or has a nounc-
ed. plated or clinEing plain front
/ with some sort of flowing train or
/ plaits falling from the shoulder to
; provide the drapcry.
IN evening frocks there are many
chaDmng variations upon this idea or
the flowing drapcry from shoulders or
high givdle top. ana delightful effects
are secured by using chiffon. gause or
line lace !u what may be called modi-
fled vatican fashion. soit wild plaits
or bteadths failing free from tho
shoulders or from tne shoulder blades
and either mcrglnB into train dropeTr