The Republican journal., 1912-06-13
A Carriage Tour in Corsica.

duration, with three undaunted wiry
little Corsican ponies, Rosa, Bichette
and Robert, harnessed abreast to Cor
sican landau, to visit some of the lowell
est scenery on this favored island, unsur-
passed in beauty in the whole world.
We were to cover three hundred kilo-
meters, or about two hundred and six
miles.
Our route lay through Ajaccio, and out
on the Evisa road to the winsome Bay
of Sagone, with its sharply indented
curves, marking the twin CULTS of Lava
and Liscia, with Genoese tower stand
ing guard, grim and watchful against
the sunlit landscape. We halted beyond
the Col de San Bastiano to rest the
horses after the long climb. To the
west lay the cleaning waters of the
Tyrshenian Sea, while on the right were
the encircling mountains, with the peaks
of Monte Cinto, and the Niolo plainly in
sight.
We ratified through tiny Calcatoggio in
fine style:
"Calcatoggio, Calcatoggio,
Mala cena peggio allogio."
Protiting by this reputation we decided
to drive nine miles further on to Sagone,
with it's fine old ,Genoese tower, called
Capigliolo. We halted there for basket
luncheon, jolly party of seven and a
dog!
The two Corsican coachmen were self
providing. The sturdy ponies were I'M
hamessed and given fodder and water.
They nevertheless shared with relish all
our left over bits of bead and apple
cores.
Sagone in the vi century was an
Episcopal city. Saint Gregory the Great
wrote to Bishop Leon, in sol, ''to visit
the church of Sagone deprived of it's own
Bishop, and to ordain the priests and
a1eacons''
At half-past two we started on again,
as we were to sleep that same night at
Cargese, Greek village. The purpling
shadows heightened as we advanced.
Just outside Cargese we met two lovely
young girls seated together sideways on
a small donkey. Their Grecian features
were particularly charming. We asked
permission to photograph them. At first
they decidedly objected, fearing it was
for postal cards. Upon our energetic
disclaimer and promise to send them
few copies for distribution among their
friends they consented to a pose, which
afterwards turned out to be well nigh
perfection.
We were expected at Hotel Cyrnos, as
we had telegraphed ahead for rooms and
dinner. So, after a hasty toilet we be-
gan our inspection of the smiling little
town of l, 1873 inhabitants, with it's happy
mingling of adherents to the Greek and
Roman rites of worship. Cargese has
quite history. 1t was settled by Greek
refugees, the san who had sought safe
~ IN Ajaccio, after the destruction of
Paomla, in 1871. At the instigation of
the Count de Marbeuf, the king, Louis
XIV, decided to found Cargese. He order
ed one hundred and twenty houses con-
structed on uniform plan, and, granting
concessions of land, caused the Greeks
to establish themselves in the newly
created colony. Count de Charbeuf was
styled Marquis of Cargese in June, ITS.
and built himself a fine castle on the
heights, overlooking the little town with
its beauteous stretch of sea-coast. Since
those days the Greeks and Corsicans
united IN marriage live peacefully side
by side, nothing separating them except
the differing conceptions of their re-
spectlve religions. There are the two
churches, the Greek and the Roman.
each facing the other on little hills.
separated by small valley which runs
between. The country all about is ex-
'quls1tely beautiful.
We had rather hilarious evening.
Our coachman came in to say we could
not have luncheon next day at the Hotel
Z des Strangers in Piana, as arranged. be-
cause the proprietor was dead, "from
one end OF him to the other" After
pretending we did not understand him we
drew him on to explain volubly to us in
an astonishing mixture of Corsican.
Italian and bad French, which elected
roars of laughter, all at the expense of
the poor honest soul who was lying dead
at Piana, and whose funeral we saw
passing through the village the following
morning. We agreed to leave the matter
of our luncheon to chance, knowing full
well we should never go hungry in this
land Of true hospitality.
We left Cargese, early in the morning,
sJn our way to Piana, getting at each
stage of our journey enhancing glimpses
of wonderful scenic panorama. The road
traverses vineyards and fertile gardens,
through savage hills clothed with maquis
and shut out from the sea, crosses the
valley of Chioni, and the Col de San
M artino, and the Col de Lava, and after
eleven miles we stop suddenly in the
r