El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1912-08-02

- ticles of clothing, the effect OF
fashion upon the many little accessO-
ries that go to make up botn the mas
culine and feminine tollIetteS mas
potent influence upon the commercial
conditions of the world When there
is a demand for a certain article the
localities from which it comes reyel
in prosperity, and when the fashion
changes and something else IS SubStl-
tuted thousands of workers may be
thrown out of employment. One of the
economies in the present fashion is
the short sleeve waist which requires
so little material to produce. But the
short sleeve requires long glove, so
from another standpoint 1t Is eXpen-
sive. The trade OF the cotton fabric
glove was greatly increased with the
advent of the short sleeve. There were
S2,0O0.000 worth Of cotton gloves i'm
ported from ChemmitZ, Germany, dur
ing the year of 1910, and last year the
Importation from this one town
reached $2,S76,000 Most of these were
OF the heavier cotton fabric designed
to initiate leather, and generally
known as chamOisette.
Now the order has gone forth that
the long sleeve IS to be IN vogue Tor
the next year, and already the manu-
facturers are planning their orders
with that in view While the town OF
Chemmitz furnishes the larger part Of
the cotton groves worn in the United
States, these articles are shipped in
from other countries and are also eX-
tenSiYely manufactured at home.
Much Lace Used Now.
Perhaps the most distinctive feature
of Women's gowns of the present IS
the enormous quantity of lace used
upon them and the great variety OF
patterns often used upon the same
garment This last feature is a dis
tinct economy to the woman who plans
her own gowns, but this increase in
the use OF lace seems only parallel
with the recent development of the
lace making industries of the United
States. Formerly all the lace used in
rfgafaA
ments, except for the very cheapest
cotton dresses, was imported, and but
little lace was manufactured in Amer
lea besides lace curtains and nets and
the cheap grades made in the cotton
mills and used principally for trim
ming the lowest grades of underwear
The new tariff bill is largely respon-
sible for the increased manufacture OF
laces of a better grade in this coun-
try. The bill provided that there
might be an importation of lace max
ing machines into this country free of
duty from the date Of Aug l. 1903, un-
til Dec. 81, 1910. The bill was passed
Aug ., and went into effect the fol-
lowing midnight and certain pro-
gressiVe manufacturers lost no time
in availing themselves of the privi
lcges thus granted them During the
period of exemption from duty Sl,S9O,-
900 worth of lacemaking machines
were imported into this country from
Nottingham, England. with accessories
bringing the sum up to S2.114,6S9.
America the manufacture of classes Of
lace that had to be imported before.
This exemption from duty was so re-
sented by the french people that the
lace manufacturers of Calais, France,
refused to sell a single machine ito
the United States because they felt,
as is beginning to be proved, that the
manufacture of American lace would
hurt their trade Lacemaking machin-
cry was bought from Germany also,
and as the machines purchased n
n nd We " nf .
ers type, similar to those used in
. France, the United States factories
have practically the same facilities for
lacemaking Is those In Europe The
new tariff bill continued the rate of
duty upon foreign laces at so percent
of their value.
The American lace manufacturers
now are uniting their efforts for the
Improvement of their wares. one of
the matters being considered is the
patenting of lace patterns 50 that they
cannot be stolen. There is 4 concert
ed movement upon the part of a num-
Der of American lace manufacturers to
establish an agreement, by the teri.
of which anyone caught in the act OF
copying designs or putting a stolen
pattern upon the market as original
goods shall be debarred from buying
or even looking upon the designs Of
the other manufacturers. OF course
the lacemaking industry in this cOun-
Try is still so much in its infancy that
all such provisions are only tenta-
just past has been sufficient to at
tract the attention of the European
manufacturers. From one European
! town the exports fell off from S6,0S9.-
492 in 1903 to S4,653.72S in 1911.
Part of this is credited to the les
sened demand for machine made lGces.
and because OF the decreasing prices
and consequent lessening of profit the
manufacturers have selected lighter
cheaper thread and use fewer threads
to the same pattern. thereby reducing
n
consequence of this the laces sold I'M
der certain well known names arc in
Ierlor IN their wearing qualities to
those put forth even two or three
years ago.
Irish Lace Craze Subsidies.
The craze over Irish lace is on the
wane, one reason being that it is so
easy of imitation. As u matter of fact
much of the Irish lace now sold comes
fIom Germany, France and Japan in
stead OF from ireland, since the ef-
fects of the crochet patterns are easily
secured The makers of the real Irish
lace suffer greatly from these at
temDts at duplication and an eiicrU is
now being made by importers to have
laces truthfully named in the import
ing bills.
Frequently some incident or circum-
stance VIII be responsible for creating
a demand for some article in wearing
apparel One of the reasons given for
the popularity Of the heavy laces this
season, especially those in Arabian pat
terms, is the enthusiasm with which the
play The Garden of Allah" was re-
ceived in New York last winter and
the number of Arabians who made up
the caste. Quite a number of these
were lacemakers AND one of them in
particular MOhamed Il RAM. received
many fashionable visitors during the
day while he worked at his lace loom
thereby multiplying several times his
earnings as a member OF the band of
native troops upon the stage in the
evening.
While the full reports regarding the
extent of the newly developed manu-
facture Of laces in America are not
yet recorded, the wholesale buyers say
that il is quite in keeping with the
increased demand for laceS. The i'm
portatiOn of fOreiSn lace remains
about the same as last year The de
mand has increased more than 90
percent however, and dealers say that
the manufacture of superior lace IN
America has kept the impOrtatlOns of
foreign lace from increasing. The Few
American lace manufacturers VINO are
now planning to supply the best trade
are bringing in quantities OF foreign
laces to be used a models IN the de
signs of their own patterns. Some or
these firms also distribute a certain
amount of imported laces in connec-
ton with their own manuTactorleS- In
this connection It is interesting to
know that the only luggage saved OH
the Inflated Titanic was carryali
halnngingy a