Evening star., 1912-11-10

these we battled during the remainder
of our journey, and. although We wore
netting over our hats. our legs and hands
suffered from the stfngs.
Everywhere We We're Hospitality re
ceived by the Russians and Mongolians
Twice, however, We made the mistake
of accepting the hospitality of the lat
ter's dome-shaped native jurtas. or tents
which are built of lattice-work frames
and wound about with strips of native
felt. Our rest In these shelters was
soreiy disturbed by fieas and other YER
min.
These dark-skinned nomads subsist
mainly on their hocks of sheep and
goats. They also breed riding horses
which, though not large, are excellent. and
some cattle. Their relig Gus scruples for
bid their killing any living creature save
that which is absolutely needed to sus-
tain life. These scruples, however, did
not disqualify them as soldiers in their
recent victorious struggle with the
Chinese.
They are the best equestrians In the
world, and commence to ride almost
when babies. Men, women and children
alike fairly live in the saddle. Despite
their nomadic habits they are fairly
civilized, having received many radi
ments of civilization from the CHI nese
and from their iamas, or priests. The
have five different dialects and mode
of writing. They have even journal.
printed in Mongolian.
X +
"Urga, their ancient capital, / found
to be city of about 5000 inhabitants.
5000 of them lamas and 100 Russians.
The nucleus of this city consists Of two
immense lamaist monasteries. about
which are pitched hundreds of native
tents A short distance to the south
are two picturesque palaces OF the gegen.
or pope-emperor Of Mongolia-a- very
exclusive potentate. who can be seen only
by some religious pilgrims, who are ad-
mitted but one at time, and some OF
whose tents are always pitched about
their rulers gateway. Farther to the
south of the valley in which Urga lies
there is the Sacred Mountain of Mon
golia, on which no wood must be cut.
no animal killed. and which. In conse-
quence, has become a natural preserve
and menagerie, abounding in all sorts
of game. especially tarbagan and deer.
and where is also found the native bear"
Upon the plain before a monastery ten
miles from Urga. DR.. Hrdlicka witnessed
a weird and fantastic religious ceremony
lasting from until 10 o'clock in the
evening. This was a series OF semi
barbaric pageantries and balletlike
dances of masked and gorgeously arrayed
priests representing the numerous Mon
golian deities.
The music was especially weird and in
cluded harsh notes upon great trumpets
six feet long. Each feature was ushered
in by four lamas, who uttered, upon
gayly decorated flutes, blood-curdling
sounds which sent shivers to the yer,
blood. Each of these sacred flutes was
made from the leg bone OF sixteen
year-old maiden who had died in the
neighborhood. Some participants. weighed
down by their heavy masks and head
dresses. persisted in continuing to dance
although SO greatly exhausted that they
had to be supported by others. The en-
tire dramatis personae included several
hundred men and children, who were
dressed as gods and who while surround
ed by fianks Of priests disguised not only
as deities, but as fantastic soldiers
danced about an elaborate altar.
Comedy was introduced into the cere-
mony by lama disguised as the god Or
mirth He wore a great laughing mask.
with long. white beard. and ran about
pursuing a group of grotesqueIy masked
children, who shouted with laughter a.
he attempted to catch them. Finally.
a grand climax to the weird ceremony
the altar in the center Of the dance space
was set on fire.
Copyright 1912. by John Elfreth watkins.)