New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1912-08-18
PLEATS AGAIN

The ITO he or not 20 be- question which
always dgitates the fashion world at this
season Of the year resolves itself this time
into "A problem OF skirts Are the straight,
narrow ones. TO which we have become
80 much attached, TO be replaced by
fuller ones? The movement In that dt-
rcction has been zealously pushed by the
manufacturers for the last few seasons,
but until pleats we're hit upon as the
medium their efforts could not be called
successful. Tho panner, in 50 far as IL
Was conceded TO be drapery. WAS ac-
ccptod. but tho moro bounant eject pro-
duced by the panulcr OF other days was
not sufficiently appealing TO induce any
hut the bravest TO attempt TO wear II.
~ introductlons TO more drapery on the
skirts the pannier played an important
role, which doubtless will have its effect
on the fashions Of the winter. The
drsped skirt will, unless something very
new develops as tho season progresses,
be the accepted mode for light weight
materials, whose suppleness will permit
of this graceful method OF treatment
The draped skirt, however. has not been
successfully adapted 10 the heavier fab
rtcs used In street costumes, and here
plcats have been introduced with excel
lent results. There is probably no mode
which could hayo been selected which
would have pleased the American women
better. for they have always had a great
liking for plcated effects. AS II to caJole
the fancics of one and all pleats OF var,-
Gus descriptions have been offered. You
may swallow the entire bait and have the
machIno-stitched or sun ray skirt, or
YOU may merely nibbie and Introduce into
YOUR skirt Il plcatcd fan-so long as YOU
accept pleats I'm some form fashion viii
smile upon you.
I'm slks-of which there IL an endless
varlety-in diaphanous stuffS like chiffon,
and In the soft, shimmcring crepcs the
sun ray pleated skirts are easily man
aged and most effective. But do not
think that this type of skirt is restricted
to these more supple fabrics; no, indeed.
one finds skirts entirely ACCORDION
pleated among the woollen materials. A
suit of English tweed with the accor-
deon or machine pleated skirt, Is illus
trated but the skirt Is not peated from
belt to hem, as Is very often the case in
the lighter materials. II hangs from a
closely fitted yoke. which clearly defines
the hips. These Jokes are curiously de-
vised on many Of the new skirts. Some
are pointed others rounded, and some
again do not extend entirely around the
figure, but are detached at one side,
where the pleating Is allowed to extend
10 the waist line. There are very Jaunty
suits of ACCORDION pleated white serge.
10 be worn with blue serge jackets, and
there are others of broadcloth, TO be
topped with n Jacket OF satin.
In tho lined suits OF silk and its allied
fabrics these machine or ACCORDION pleat-
ed skirts are often selected Another ef-
pleating Is the narrow box pleating which
is fatty pressed to give tho effect OF
tucking. All OF these pleated skirts arc
not only very closely pressed but are
held on the under side by tapes; some
times by one. oftener by two, and the
width Of the bottom OF the skirt is thus
no wider than that of the narrow skirt
10 which we have become accustomed
One OF the most pronounced methods
OF using the pleats is In the pleated
flounce. This overskirt. for that Is what
II really is, may consist Of two flounces,
or OF one, and at times " more of an