The Elbert County tribune., 1912-10-18

into the philosophy OF human
caprice II Is easy enough to reason
this out; people who dress well are
rather afraid OF exploiting an ex-
treme because they feel that these
who dress for the moment will take
this fashion a. their own and com
monixe 1t: the latter are not struck
with II, and the former. awaiting their
time. go back to 1t. writes Anne Rit-
tenhouse In the Philadelphia Record.
All this has come about with the
pannier When Nine. Cheruit wore
the first one in Paris It started. as
you know. all sorts Of wild rumors
and comments In a few days all the
dressmakers in Paris exhibited PAN
niers as the newest fashion, and In a
few weeks the American shops had
them, The public did not take to
them and they fell from favor. They
were merely an advertising scheme,
after all, first for an individual. then
for class.
Whether or not the public or the
dressmakers nodded the first pannier
into the zouave skirt OF today is hard
to tell, but the modification is most
acceptable. 1t is cross between
Turkish trousers and flour sack
gathered at the hem. and yet 1t is
most attractive and becoming to wo-
men who have big hips. as well as
those who have slender ones. 1t is
probably the skirt OF the day as far
as exclusiveness goes, and yet 1t is
not we'll known enough to prevent It's
being offered on the 18th of August
as an autumn fashion.
It is quite simple to explain. The
material is soft and Is slightly gath
cred into high waistband, falls over
fiattened hip line to halfway point
between the knee and ankle. and Is
gathered there into a narrow lower
skirt. which is plain or adorned. The
gathering Is done In such way that
the fulness of the skirt bags over It
for about three inches, giving the
Turkish trouser effect.
Newest Ideas In Skirts.
Last winter few gowns were
worn over here which had this eff
feet at the foot line. For months pre-
ceding January the smart dressma-
kers had been advocating this quaint
method of arranging a skirt at the
hem. The method was to cut the skirt
itself six inches longer than the lin
ing. then turn 1t under and gather 1t
to the skirt. This produced that full
scalloped effect which is now very
smart to have at the knees.
II IL tho same method and IL the
same idea. It Is merely moved up to
the body for SIX or seven inches. The
eject IL much better, as one retains
the slim. tight lower skirt with its
trimness about the ankles. This xotl-
ave effect il Just as smart on skirts
that are long as we'll ~ those that are
short 1t 10 rather effective ON a
strtght two-gored Empire underskfrt,
which Is cut to pointed train.
Using FIcwered silks.
1t has much the effect Of a tunic IN
that 1t conceals the ughtness of the
line drawn by the underskirt against
the hgure in the back, and also hides
the not always graceful movement OF
the knees In tight skirt. 1t takes
consummate art to make slim mar
row skirt that does not catch and
draw around the body In an ugly man.
ner; and SO the fashion for fulness
from waist to knees comes as o happy
afterthought.
Among the midsummer fashions is
the use OF soft-fowered silks instead
OF chiffons. or rather they are used as
rivals. not as substitutes. The flow
cred transparent stun is always love
~. and in its present form 1t is nllur.
fng. especially for hot afternoons and
evenings. The use OF silks is newer.
1t came about through the revival of
many Of the Louis XVI. fashions
That was great epoch for silk coy-
cred with punches OF flowers and Ia
ter with stripes.
Today one does not wish to wear
the stiff brocades of those days. for
the manufacturers have gone far In
the art OF weaving and can give us
marvellous stuffs of silk and metal In
terwoven in gossamer weight. We can
wear the dashing brilIiancy of the
Italian fabrics and not put an ounce
Of weight on our muscles.
Design Is Effective. :
This is the kind of silk we are
wearing this summer II is fashioned
Into the new kind of pannier and is
immensely effective. It Is not draped
as far down on the skirt as the thin
chiffons are; 1t is carried down to the
knees or little above and is lifted
slightly In the front. 1t drops into
baglike effect there and falls close to
the slim silk or satin underskirt be-
meath.
1t is better to use satin for the low
er skirt than any other fabric. not
only becauae n ia tho fret fo,,o~,x -,
the day, but because 1t presents an
artistic contrast to most other fab
rics. II has the advantage of bring
ing out to its best all things that are
placed against 1t as a background. or