Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1912-02-12
FORCE or the SEA
Terrific Power Is Generated When
a Cyclone RACES.
THEN THE WATERS RUN WILD
All Regularity Of Wave Motion Ceases
as the Sea Bursts Its Bounds-Gran-
lite Blocks Weighing Thousand Tons
Tossed About Like Pebbles.

A pond troubled by a pebble gives a
comprehensive idea of the mechanism
of the perpetual motion of the ocean,
now slow, regular and majestic, run
ming from horizon to horizon, now
rushing in ungovernable fury against
the land. When a pebble falls in a
pond it produces Il fine circular line.
which widens, multiplying until stop
ped by its boundaries. Just so is pro
duced the surging of the sea.
To judge from appearances, the
swells transport the water toward the
circumference of the pond. In point of
fact they do nothing Of the kind. as is
easily proved by a match or splinter
Of wood being cast upon the water.
The match is hardly raised or lowered
by the passage of the swell. The action
in evidence is simply the transmission
Of motion, not the transmission of
matter.
The fine waves Of the sea are gen.
Grated by the wind as fine waves are
generated by the wind when it ripples
a field Of grain ready for the harvest.
The waves that run over the field of
grain are real waves, often waves in
fierce action. The spears Of grain are
immovably fixed to the ground by their
roots, but every blade transmits it's os-
cillatory movement to the next blade.
Just so liquid molecules are formed.
In the middle of vast ocean, such
as the equatorial Atlantic, for instance
great regular undulations are seen null
tiplying in parallels like the burrows
In a vast plowed field. On the broad
ocean the liquid mounds of the sea rise
with every swing with more or less
even regularity
The mariners Imagination has given
the great waves of the high sea the
reputation of fabulous height. Reia-
BILE authors have talked Of waves
mountain high and of waves 100 feet
in height. Exact measurement has Civ
en- a closer estimate.
The waves of the high sea, Of the ma
jor oceans, attain the height of fifty
feet under the exceptional conditions
of tempest in the vicinity of Cape
Horn and the Cape of Good Hope
The surges here estimated are those in
free circulation on the high seas.
When wave, whatever its strength
or its weakness, meets q solid obstacle.
whether that obstacle be rocky cliff
or ship, the swell rebounds to ex-
traordinary heights. Lighthouses are
often swept by the sea from base to
summit.
The length of waves is between
twenty and thirty times their height,
and the slope of the seas hills is very
gentle 4 wave sixty feet high is
somewhere between 1000 and 1900
feet long.
At the axis of the revolving tempest
called a cyclone there are many wave
systems, moving in all directions,
meeting and combining. When the cy-
clone is in action the sea is said to
"burst its bounds
At such time all regularity Of wave
succession &C. res, and the sea runs
wild. with force beyond human power
to estimate Blocks of granite weigh
ing from LOCO to 1920 tons are caught
by the sea and rolled like pebbles TO
distances of 800 feet and more, and
sea walls are splntered us by hatch
cts. The Give power" of furious
sea is estimated by multiplying tho
mass of the surge by the square of its
speed.
When the surf impeled by the drive
of the broad sea, meets Il solid obsta-
Gle its pressure is thirty tons per
square meter of water. This estimate,
which is close, explains how water,
when continually sapping the foot of
cliff. breaks down the land forces
back the shore line and little by little
constantly and surely, increases the
sea- domain.
A wave from SO to So feet high and
625 feet long-such Il wave as the sea
produces every eighteen scconds-rep'
resents power of about 1850 horse
power, steam, per square yard.-llar.
Der'S Weekly