davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
THE INFLUENCE OF DIREcToIRE
AND OTHER PERIODS.

Side nv side with these models so
supgestive OF the East are others "hi0h
% hack TO the Dlrectoire perlou' ihoi
Darfjcularly. however, as to the costume
a1ected by the dandies or that cay
Thsre is the Robespierre collar 'he
tamntv earing cuffs, broad revers, waist
coats and cutaway fronts. Ihe styleS
made famous by the courts OF LOUIS n
and XVI are strongly featured III 'he
nannier. the subtle, sinuous uIapeIieo'
,he nleated founces and the long sleeves
anisbinc with the ceremonious friii over
the hand. . .hora
As against these draped effects there
was also introduced the pialn' suasnI
lined princess gown. This new 'noue'
,s usually q one-piece garment com
nosad ~ a princess bodice extending
;r,o q long tunic which ends in train
In the front there is an iInitatioh sNii
hanging from underneath tne tuiiiT'
fashioned from contrasting mater "a,
one designer who is particularly partiai
~ tho beauty of the feminine form Is
waking a specialty Of these reVealihs
gowns. Many of his models Duttoh from
IN. neck TO the hem, either sfalsh'
down the centre or at the IeIt slue.
Sometimes he shows tWo-piece eHe''
hy q Jacket with false vest ana re'erS
owe, the nrincess-like corsaee ana tuhlc'
Arotber designer has several similar
models showing the overdress SERVING d.
long coat with the bodice oi an en-
urely different fabric. Still another mas
made a feature Of these costumes OF d
hundred years ago. and it is to him '~hst ~
the conssryatively well sowned "oinal
looks for guidance The standing OF '''S
designer IS that Of the paterfamiiias OF
,ho g,oun His tail-coated bolcros' with
cut up skirts, lend military appear ''> =
which received no little comment
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
Blouses for the Fall Suit

simulated with pipings or cordings, is an
other attractive feature which is fur'ner
enhanced with pretty buttons.
Still another favorite style is the tucked
or pleated blouse, which has little orna-
mentation further than buttons or per-
haps cordings, or. again, a volant or lace
or net, which will escape through SIT
cleverly cut This is most fetching When
it is developed in black and white
striped goods, the sombre effect Of the
black being broken by the pleatinss OF
the white, which appear from time 10
time
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
NOVELTIES IN WHITE BLOUSE.

Just a word on white blouses, be-
cause they are too lovely TO omit. par
ticularly those in white eharmeuse with
or without a collar. A new idea calls
for a touch Of fur or marabout on these
blouses. and very effective IL will doubt
less be when the dog days Of August are
dreams OF the past. The white tulle
blouses carry all before them. Some are
very. very simple; others are very mucA
elaborated with revers OF lace, tiny lace
buttons caught with silk cordings, AMI
epaulettes OF the lace. Some Of thsI
simple models, which derive their charm
from this very simplicity. have merely
a deep turnover collar or a deep sallos'
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
THE NEW SLEEVES.

The shoulder effects are to be watcneo
on the new waists, but thereby hangs the
tale of the season. The kiulOno shoulder
is not as new as some of the other ell
fects. but II is still very popular, and
no doubt. owes much of it's popularity to
the fact that It is quite as easy 10 smu-
late It as TO extend the material ot the
blouse A piping or coItting placed NJ
the depth of the seam will give all or the
effect Of the long kimono shoulder, ana
is often much easier TO manipulate All
other idea along this line shows the
epaulettes, which sometimes extend mere
ly over the round Of the arm, and again
wend their way in narrow strip 10 Tue
wrist On striped waists chic enect 10
given by these epaulettes OF the materlal
forming a trimming for the outer portion
Of the arm. A touch OF embroidery is an
effective bit of trimming when applied to
these enaulettes as worn on a white crepe
or charmeuse blouse.
The simplest method of all calls for the
normal size armhole into which the sieeSe
is aatly set. This armhole may DC N
creased in size with excellent results. one
charming waist I'm white charmeuse haS
an armhole which frankly extends 70 the
waist line. Another effect shows tne
shoulder extended over onto the sleeve
and buttons placed as II fastening the
sleeve 10 the body OF the blouse. In fact'
tho plays on the sleeves are many.
AS rule the long sleeve has con-
ouered for all but cerenonious occasions.
If may be slightly funed TO the elbow
with the fulness so carefully restrained
from this point TO the wrist that the ef-
feet is that Of glove. or that OF deep
cuff buttoning to the wrist Again the
old fashioned bishop sleeve Is preferred,
or the regulation shirt sleeve devoid OF
fulness and gathered into a soft Turn
hack cuff. One can ring almost as man.
changes In OF the cuffs as at the shoui-
der. they are deep and they are narrow
so narrow that they diminish almost TO 4
piplng; they are round. pointed, or seal
loped: Of the material and again OF
contrasting material: severely plain or
softened with the frlll of lace and tulle
falling coouettishly over the hand.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
Many New Ideas in Blouses OF
Laces Tulles, Maline which
Match or Suggest the
Color of the Suit.

The blouse which will prove most IN
teresting to women in the early fall days
is the waist she VIII wear TO complete
her tailored suit. Unless she is divinely tall
and 1.-THE, she will choose for good stand
bv blouse blending in color with or the
color of the skirt. There is no style that
makes a woman look as large or as short
as the white waist and dark skirt, which
cuts her in two. To be sure. the white
waists are very alluring-very, very ap-
pealing, you will think, when you look
at the bewitching white or cream net
blouses-but, beware! unless you wear
white serge suit or are the fortunate
possessor of a figure with which you can
take liberties.
THE FAD FOR COLORED sLoUSES
Colored blouses by the way are fad
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

OF the moment not only in the city OF
modes across the sea. but here. When
they do not match exactly the coloring
OF the skirt they are preferably in a
darker hue or in a contrasting bright COL
or. Silk and its allies are the favored
fabrics for these utility waists and, as
n rule. they are very simply made One
delightful model In charneuse IS frankly
buttoned III the front TO the delight OF it's
possessor with the new crystal buttons
There is a pointed chemisette or yoke OF
creamy net. which has the effect Of
swathing tile neck. so cleverly are the
collar and yoke joined. Opening on
eitLer side are revers OF the material or
a contrasting one. White Ottoman silk
or the new cote de cheval. n ribbed silk
of a particularly supple nature, with a
duh surface and fat cord, is often used
for revers and trimmings of this type.
Tho klmono shoulder brings the long
sleeves up TO the minute, and the fulness
below the shoulder is well taken care of
with the buttons.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

cotton, something like those patch puffs
Helen told us about, lined with oiled silk.
They are very dainty. and ! love dainty
toilet fixings just about spend all my
allowance on them"
Much you do. with the clothes you
have" retorted Helen. What would you
do II you were me, with about cents to
dress on? have come down to the use
full things"
What are the useful things?" broke in
Ruth. They sound good, at any rate"
They are all right" was the reply.
They are great. You would probably
never guess that they are boxes, good
looking boxes. that have just room
enough to hold a little bottle of talcum
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
coLoRs FAVORED BY DESIGNERS

As with Others, the evenihs eo"ns
showed many draperies. all soi' anu
s,nuous. with reminiscent SUGGESTIONS oi
,h. no,onaise so familiar in the phuao-
.a,hs ~ the beauties of years past, lhe
popular shades were all repreSei'''1 So,r,,.
oeranium. which one costuiher 80
revels in: the golden yellow OF su,pnu'
favored by another. mulberry 0"rS,
Iumierc green. taupe and h'aon o."
wb,,e one artist has selected yei'o"ish
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

collar. lined with vividly colored chiffon.
which appears again as lining for the
cuffs.
On other models the black and white
tulle has been combined with excellent
results. The Freuchiest of these have
an undermining OF flush pink tulle.
which is a bit startling from distance,
but which proves TO be quite proper
While the color note is very persistent-
ly struck on the white linen blouses, one
of the most alluring fancles calls for In
sertion and motif of butter tinted lace.
This craze for yellow In all its blendings
has naturally brought forth the waist
Of soft yellowish tone. more subtle,
however, than the fashionable sulnhux.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

(Rieht) A gracefully draped wrap of
veIours de lain or brocaded velvet. The
coat is three quarters in length and is
draped to the left side, where the drap.
inss are caught with satin cordins and
tassels. The collar is also draped to
the left side. The large black moire
hat is ornamented with one sweeping
white plume.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

YOkES AND TRIMMING.
These coats, which are frankly straight
coats belted at the waist, are considered
quite correct for the city streets and are
certainly very comfy" Some show the
yoke; others are quite as smart without
f. There is no trimming other than the
stitching and the buttons, and of course
the belt, which may be of the material
or of leather. We have shown in the
illustration the chic OF this type of coat.
ORIENTAL iNFLUENCE-SASHES
Another new point about the top coat
is the wide belt, so wide that IL has de
veloped into sash. II is here that the
Orientalism which marks so many of the
new modes shows itself on the coats. on
one stunning coat Of a deep gcranlum
zibeline the belt. or sash, was carried
out in q wonderful Eastern embroidery
on another model the sash was marked
by a woollen embroidery in all the vivid
colorings Of the East The simplest form
shows a sash of the material attached to
the coat at the button line, as If It were
buttoned on 10 the garment. These sashes,
swathng the hips in true Oriental fash
/ ion, encircle the entire garment while
/ the belts may only mark the back or the
/ front Of the coat. or again extend across
the back and sides, ending abruptly oil
either side OF the front.
! Collars may be of the material of vel
vet, plush or one Of the ribbed silks, and
/ are quite as often seen in a vividly con-
trasting shade.
More than 10 show you in the illustra-
/ ton the charm of the draped cloak in
velvet. brocade. moire, faille or satin for
afternoon wear is impossible III this ar
| tlcle. Next week we shall let you into
/ the secret of these sinuous appealing
draperies which make the cloak Of the
fall very distinctive and different from its
| predecessors.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
CONCERNING THE POCKET

Pockets are another comfortable feature
~hifh fashion fortunately DEGREES. Ihero
asy De two roony pockets on e'lher siue
,he coat, or four pockets arc hDerany
ssuibuted on .he more sporty coa'H
zach suggest the popular Norioik VI
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

cause the box is small enough to slip into
your handbag"
II haven't seen them anywhere" COM
mented Madge, but ! have noticed the
orocheted bags which hold a face cloth
and a cake Of soap. Have you seen
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

coat sleeve to be found Oh cloth coats WIN
'Ae severe tailored lines On the coa's
Exploited in the heavier materials 'ne
'eton sleeve is well liked, or fbe SLEEVE
's' Into an enlarged srmhole' For the
suppler fabrics the kimono is still IN
ssor. Many Of these kimOno sleeves arc
wi In with the back portion, the seam
"hing we'll toward the front oh ''@
'pprting coats Of mannish cut we hnd ho'
my the regulation coat sleeve out oi'e
suggesting the well-liked raglan with the
Sleeve extending well on to the shoulder
""ntimes to the collar such Is the cut
The tweed coat we have illustrated
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

Centre Smart tweed coat cut on
the English lines, which resemble
mans coat. The sleeve is put into
largo armhole and is finished with
turnover cuff. One or two pockets may
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

III. top coat. whether of mannish ma
..,,.I and cut for sporting events or de-
..,cned ~. in soft supple satins or velvet
~, he feature OF the fall wardrobe
mere are many types of top coats these
,.ys which the well gowned woman de-
Ids where one, or, at the most, two,
,rA1eed few years ago.
rnere is the utility top coat to be worn
,rsr the useful and practical cloth dress
,b,ch is found in every wardrobe. This.
4. turn. Is different from the coat of man
a,.b cut which the inclemencies Of the
r,ather force the sports-lovinS woman
"a don. The former, although cut on the
,,v.re tailored lines. lack the shapeless-
,.ss of the more mannish coat The
uryes OK the female figure are discern
M, while the top coat Ike brother S.
makes It necessary at times TO look twice
% discern the gender, or. more properly
,,ssking. the sex.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
A NEW LENGTH IN COATS.

One pioneer. by the way. refuses 10
drift far away from the slim, straight
silhouette. All OF her skirts were tight
and only slightly draDed. Her Jackets
were surprisingly short not more than
twenty-four inches. with the cutaway
coats even shorter. As rule. In TWO
ateliers prominence was given 70 slightly
longer jackets, these ranging from TWEEN
ty-siX to twenty-eight inches, although IN
their HANDSOME afternoon costumes they
caused no end OF attention by their chic
little coates reaching only few inches
below the waist line. Both OF these es-
tablishments made feature Of the com
bination suit; that is, the skirt or one
material with the Jacket Of another
broadcloth and velvet being the fayorite
combination.
The coats at one OF the well known de-
slgners' were even longer ranging from
the tip Of the finger 10 thirty-six inches.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
The SLEEVE QUESTION,

ne sleeves are another feature OF the
new coats. There Is first the regulation
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
A NOVELTY IN CUT.

Another novel and interesting point in
regard 20 the cut Of these coats Is that
vhil. they are roomy and comfy around
.ths upper portion of the figure they mar
row perceptibly from the waist down
Even the severely tailored models sho"
the rounded back, much longer than IN
III. front. In one imported model the
measurement Of the back reached forty
sight inches while the fronts sloped from
thirty-two inches. There is Just sue-
gestion Of drapery in some OF these round
ed backs. This may SOUND bit incon-
gruous on a cloth coat, but it was clever
" manipulated in a covert cloth garment
he draping coming from the side seams
On this coat the low revers reaching 10
e low side fastening were noticeable
valiks the royers Of past vintage, they
stopped at the shoulder line, and the back
q thA coat displayed square insert COL
LAP cf ysIyet
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
YOKES AND TRIMMING.

Macknew, but which are really not like
either
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
NEW FEATURES OF THE UTILITY
COAT,

4, This coat is intended TO be slipped
4, EASILY over dresses of cloth and SIX
us cut on generous lines, suggesting
amer than revealing. This fall the bulk
,fthese coats arc being cut in the three
,u,rter length rather than reaching 10
N. hem of the gown. When the three
eusrter length Is not practical the seven
lzhths measurement is adopted Inc
rough surface goods are the faVortes ior
q coat of this type, the chincmIIas III
particular being very popular. All or the
boucle weaves are likewise used, ana the
tweeds and serges have many followers
For general wear the double faced or Ie-
versibie materials are ideal and while at
ar.t thought II might seem that they
more properly were applicable for the
sporting coats, they are quite as practl-
al for general street wear. Care must be
taken, on the other hand, not TO purchase
TOO heavy quality If one expects to wear
the coat when shopping or running
around" As rule, the face OF these
cloths is woollen, even velvet. Abeline
hornespun, serge or one OF the corded
veaves, with the undersurface displaying
Scotch plaid pattern.
When the materials are so thick that
seam is impracticable they are bound with
mohair stress, which gives neat tailored
finish. Some have yokes both IN the front
and In the back, others merely show the
yoke in front or IN the back There Is
very smart coat in tan chinehilla, with
deep yoke In the back Joined TO the skirt
uortion by notch forming the seam
This yoke reaches almost to the waist
line. which is marked in the back by
vide strap pulled through a large tortoise
she'll buckle. The Robespierre collar adds
the new mode 10 the front OF the coat
Very sensibly, most of the new coats can
be buttoned snugly to the throat when
Jack Frost is busy, and can quite az cas-
iy be worn open when the Indian sum-
mer makes the day warm and balmy.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25
Autumn Coats for
Various Occasions

rt, This Autumn Seem to Include All the Possibilities
of Utility and Beauty-Changes in Sleeves Pockets
Belts or Belt Sashes, with Great Tendency
Toward Rougher Cloths and Rever.
sibIes, Give Great Scope to the
Individual Purchaser.
New-York tribune., 1912-08-25

browns for her leading color in the day
time and rose, deepening 10 vivid red.
for the evening The red tones. such as
the deep fuchsiu the dahlia and the brick
red, threaten TO startle us al every turn.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-02-16

The Thursday afternoon Bridge club met yesterday with Mrs. William c. Weston, who entertained the members and two additional tables at her home. Mrs. Weston, in the role of hostess, is always gracious and charming, and the club enjoyed one of the happiest occasions of the winter.
 Following the games a delicious salad and ice were served. The prizes were unusually attractive. One was a handsome brass gong. another a hand painted plate. Mrs. Lewis Minor and Mrs. T. P. Vowell won these.
 Among the members of the club present, and whose number was aug mented by that of several substitutes. were.
 Mrs Chester Alexander. Mrs. Snede- cor, Mrs. J. c. Whitfield, Mrs. Hubert Scruggs. Mrs. Frank Alexander, Mrs. c. M. Tardy, Mrs. R. M. Jenkins, Mrs. Victor Prowell, Mrs. c. S, Leeper, Mrs. c. J. Smith, Mrs. Joseph R. Estes. Mrs. Warren Barnett, Mrs. c. D. Ebersole, Mrs, Lewis Minor, Mrs. Reid Lawson, Mrs. Jones Moore. Mrs. Erie Pettus. Mrs. Thomas Vowell.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-02-16
RAMSAY-NORTON
 WEDDING OCCURS

The marriage of Miss Virginia Nor ton and MT. Wane Knight Ramsay was an interesting nuptial event of yesterday afternoon. It occurred at 1.-the home of the brides mother, Mrs. | w. H. Jackson, 1230 South Twentieth street. and was witnessed by a num- Der of friends of the young people,
 The residence was attractively decor- ated in chrysanthemus-gold and white. |The ceremony took place in the sec- ond parlor. which was adorned with a graceful floral arch twined with ivy and studded with white and yellow blossoms. Palms and other potted
 plants in all of the rooms made a pretty background. It was a tableu
 wedding. At o'clock the doors sep .arating the two apartments were
 drawn back by two little folk-Donald
 Jackson, the brides brother. and Mar
 tha Wilmington, a dainty little miss in
 white. The scene was most attractive.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-02-16

zie Miss Zuber. and Miss Daniel. In an adjoining room Miss McGehee, Miss Yam and Miss Fowler The Misses Daniel were assisted in the paror by Misses Pollard. l,igon, and Fowler, also Mrs. Wood and Miss Wood.
 Miss Nell Crawford presided over the Brides Book, a gift fthe club. On reg istering each guest was asked to write a toast to the bride. Later in the afternoon these were read by Miss Laura McGehee.
 A programme of violin and piano music was given by Misses Alef and Addie Noile Vann and Miss Ethel Grace Daniel. Other pleasing musical numbers were pre- sented.
 As the bride entered the parlor she was "showered' with rice from a huge heart suspended from the arch. Close behind came little Arthur Daniel Cupid, pushing a cart loaded with linens. These he emptied at Miss Woods feet a pro fuse, and beautiful tribute from her friends
 A delicious luncheon showed the color motif, red and white. of the afternoon in the ices.
 Heart shaped souvenirs bore photo graphs of both Mir Holllnsworth and Miss Wood and a dancing Cupid.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-02-16
TWAS TERRIBLE
 DREADFUL!
How a Virginia La dy Ex- presses Her Feelings Regard ing What She Had to Go Through, For Nearly
 20 Years.

Aka, Va.-.T can only say that it was terrible, dreadful, what l had to go through during nearly 20 years" writes Mrs Jane Large, of this place. "Wo- manly trouble was back of 1t all, and would be now. had 1t not been for that best medicine on earth, for wo- Cardui.
 It cured me. I am as well as I ever was, and feel not the least symptoms of any trouble now.
 I am satisfied that a medicine which could relieve such a terrible case as mine was, will also help other ladies who suffer from such troubles.
 I cannot recommend Cardui too high ly. It's use has done me more good than any other medicine I ever used"
 In the light of this experience, you may well decide that. no matter from what form of womanly trouble you may be suffering,-and all women suffer at times,-it will benefit you to take Car dui.
 This well-known woman's tonic owes it's long continued success to the action of it's purely vegetable ingredients on the womanly organs and functions.
 It has been found to gently strength tural manner restore health
 Try Cardui. It will help you.
 N B.-Write to, Ladies' Advisory Dept, Chattanooga Medicine Co. Chat tanooga. Tenn. for Special Instructions. Women sent in plain wrapper on re- quest.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-02-16

Beneath the arch stood the bridal party. The minister-Rev. pr. J. T. Plunket-with the bride, the bride groom and their two attendants, con- stituted the bridal picture. Miss Nor ton was attired for travelling in a smart blue tailored suit and a modish blue hat faced with green and trimmed with saffron roses. She carried a brides bouquet. Her sister, Miss Richie Norton, was her maid of honor Her gown was yellow messaline and lace, her flowers white roses. Her hair was caught with becoming bold band MT. Ramsay's best man was Mr. Rob ert Eason Newman.
 An informal reception followed the vows. Mrs. Jackson, the brides moth- CT, received wearing a black afternoon gown. Mrs. J. M. P. Otts, who well comed the guests at the door, was in black crepe de chine. Others who as- sisted in receiving were Mrs. R. V. LeBaire, Mrs NJ. E. Wilmington, Mrs. W. G. Ledbetter. Punch was served in the reception hall by Miss Lida Otts and Miss Daisy Love. From the dining room ices and cakes in the heart shape were passed among the guests.
 Mr. and Mrs Ramsay left yesterday afternoon for southern trip. They will return home March 1 and will be with Mrs. Jackson. Mir. Ramsay has made his home in this city for II years, coming here from New York. He is assistant sales manager for Moore & Handley. His bride has been a resident of Birmingham but two years. She is connected with the Lowdys of North Carolina and promi- nent Virginia families, and has made a number of friends during her resi- dence here.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1912-02-16
MIR. AND MRS. BYRD HOSTS AT DINNER

Mir and Mrs. William Byrd gave their customary valentine dinner this year customary since they invite little circle of very close friends to celebrate the oc- oasion with them every year in the same charming. informal way.
 The number at table included MT. and Mrs Byrd Mir. and Mrs. W. Kelley, MT. Horace Hammond. pr. b. r. Tally and Dr. Rountree. The dinner table was par ticularly attractive with it's central basket If punk Killarney roses and its pink shaded iialsts The shower of tiny Cupids sus- pended from the chandelier and the Cupid dinner cards were pleasantly suggestive of the Valentine day.