davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Hopkinsville Kentuckian. [volume] (Hopkinsville, Ky.) 1889-1918, 1912-07-30
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The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
S7Z7CNS

These attractive designs may be worked
either in French embroidery with eyelet
a combination of eyelet and solid Detail draw
ings show methods of working.
There are two ways TO apply the designs to
the material upon which you wish to work
them.
II your material is sheer-such as handker
chief linen, lawn, batiste and the like-the
simplest method is to lay the material over the
design and with a well pointed pencil draw over
each line
If your material is heavy, secure a piece Of
transfer or impression paper. Lay 1t face
down upon this, then darw over each line Of the
paper design with a hard pencil or the point of
a steel knitting needle. Upon lifting the pat
tern and transfer paper you will find neat
and accurate impression Of the design upon
your material
There are two points to observe in this SIM
pie process II you would execute It satisfac-
torily. One is to see that your material is level
cut and folded by a thread-and that your de-
sign is placed upon 1t evenly every point.
( The second is. when placed accurately secure
the design TO the material with thumb tacks
pins, they cannot slip during the operation.
Do not rest your hand fingers upon any
part of the design you are transferring. else
the imprint of your fingers will be distinct
upon the material as the drawn lines of the de-
sign
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
Summer Girl Nop Wears Hat.

But. be it the sunbonnet or the more styl-
ish hat, the summer girl to be in the vogue,
must wear some head covering when ex-
posed to the sun and carry parasol as well.
1t is no longer fashionable TO tan ones
face to leather color or sunburn ones hair
TO brittleness: and the girl who freckles is
taking extra care Of her cuticle. for freckles
are more questionable than tan. The
young man still depends upon good coat Of
tan to prove he has had an outing and It
by no means detracts from his looks being
usually becoming and suggesting activity
in open air athletics; but when, in spite of
care. the pretty girls face becomes red
dened, Drowned, or freckled, she hastens to
apply cold cream. camphor ice, or zinc oint-
ment for the relief and removal Of the
blemish
Those who freckle do not, as a rule tan.
and freckles may be, to some extent. pre-
vented by wearing red or brown veil.
To show that the matter is not too trivial
for serious concern, some time ago that
distinguished writer and keen observer, DR..
Henry Van Dyke. lamented, in a magazine
article. the loss of fneness of texture re-
sult!ng from the bareheaded fad and urged
the women Of the country to give 1t up be-
fore the mop headed. red faced, and tanned
girl became fixed American type
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
Fashion Notes from Paris Shops.

One piece linen dresses OF solid color have
bands Of contrasting shade to trim them.
The Colonial pumps, always pretty. are still
worn to a large extent and are shown in
canvas with both the high and low heels.
1: 4
Separate blouses Of white tulle. hand
tucked and made in tailor fashion. are effect
i've when worn with tailored suits OF taffeta
or satin.
fine corded linen 81 inches wide is being
largely used for automobile coats. and Is also
especially smart for embroidered linen
dresses.
There is a beautiful wash cotton crepe that
has a silky finish and a silk and cotton mix
ture that is to be found among the blouse ma
ter!als
Silks perfectly washab BILE and unaffected by
salt water are offered this season for bathing
suits They are much like mohair in texture.
and rather expensive.
This has been a season Of coat oddities. A
new sport coat is known as the mackinaw,
because It is made of the blanket fabric
used by the lumbermen Of the west.
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14

An item that finds especial favor is repre-
sented by the Jet crown as we'll as by the Jet
tiara
Huge flowers or rosettes OF smaller bios
SONS may have ends Of ribbon and tiny POM
pons
Satin wash crepe Is one of the most attract
I've fabrics ever put on the market for blouses
or for frocks.
Some Of the new long sleeves show frills not
only about wrists but running all the way
to the elbow at the back.
During the last month the effort TO revive
plated skirts as future style possibility has
become more apparent.
Many little summer wraps are made up OF
silk cashmere. The trimming is usually mar
row ruching Of the same material.
Leghorn hats are gaining in favor each day.
They are banked with flowers. trimmed with
feathers or eyelet embroidery.
n \
Some Of the new linen suits are made with
Norfolk jackets and have six pockets. two or
each side Of the coat and two on the skirt.
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14

Where taste and aptitude are lacking
one is lucky indeed If one can make living.
Ofttimes girls take TO these posts for which
they are untitled simply because they can
not think Of anything else TO do. They
have no knowledge of the possible outlets
for their talent in the commercial world.
They often lack the courage to break into
an unusual field. Il Is the unusual field that
holds the greater chance for success.
Women are making wonderful strides in
the field Of art photography. There are
more than 800 professional women photog-
Paphers in America today. If you have
ability and taste there is unlimited oppor-
tunity In this field. The knowledge Of chem
istry. physics and art work acquired in high
school work will be Of invaluable assistance
1: 4
A number Of women make speciality OF
photographing children. In New York City
one woman never gets less than S35 for a
sitting and often gets $50 or more. In the
illustrations OF books and magazines pho
Biography is being so much used that the
demand for skilful workers increases daily.
Many Of the charming and expensive little
pictures on display in high class art shops
are photographs done in water colors.
Little capital is needed TO start IN this
business, and there is no limit to its possibili-
ties after your work has given you a good
start. Before starting in for yourself, how
ever, 1t Is wise to gain experience as ap-
prentice IN the studio Of good photographer.
In technical colleges and schools of indus
trial arts courses in art photography are
being established. The term varies in length
from a couple Of months to a year, averaging
about $50 course
Again, II you have an artistic appreciation
and can use your hands with skill in execu-
tion. why not turn your attention to arts
and crafts? Women are making a success
in this work. It is exceedingly interesting
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
What Shall IDo to E.amL living?
by ALICE MASON.

and remunerative when expertly done. Some
of the hsndsomest studios in Chicago and
other large American cities belong to sue
cessful women arts and crafts workers.
!: *
The best art schools offer three year
courses cost OF tuition avera ging about SO
a year, where students are equipped for
the trades involving jewelry, silversmithing.
enameling and chasing Of brass. bronze.
silver and gold ornaments, pottery. book
binding. leather work and the many other
different branches OF arts and crafts.
The work in jewelry tncluees the design
ing and execution Of pins. buttons. pendants
and rings. II sIlversmithing the students
design and shape bowls, trays. candle sticks.
desk sets, spoons and other useful articles.
Students are taught to make the necessary
tools to be used in the work. Pottery is
closely allied with metal work because OF the
combination OF porcelain and copper in
lamps and other ornaments.
One Of the most successful women workers
in this line does special order work for
tewelry firms. She has individual customers
in women who require rings. necklaces.
and bracelets to be in harmony with their
gowns. Her success lies in the beauty Of
design and color combinations
In pottery. too. this woman Is an expert
To her. in large measure. is due the i'm
proved shapes and designs Of the china on
the market today. This Improvement is
not confined to the expensive ware, but Is
extended to the cheaper grades even.
Another successful woman metalsmith be-
gan business reconstructing old jeweIry.
Today her studio is filled with objects all Of
her own design and workmanship.
i: =
Since electric light has come into such
common use the demand for hand made lamps
has created a wide field for original and
shllful workers. And success is not con-
fined to the worker in copper or glass, but
silk, grass cloth and paper shades to har-
monize with the color scheme of the room
are much In demand
One woman started in a regular book
bindery few years ago, where she learned
every process in the making Of book from
folding the large sheets on which the print
ing is done. through the pasting, inserting
illustrations, plates and maps, putting in the
fly leaves, sewing the pages together, trim
ming the edges, making the covers aging
the gold leaf preparatory to stamping title
and design. Today this woman conducts a
highly profitable business restoring and re-
binding old books. Rare old editions, for
which almost fabulous sums have been paid.
are brought to her because Of her skillful
workmanship.
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
Making Bdbu Bibs.

A pleasant way to make pin money is TO
make and sell baby bibs.
Buy one-quarter Of yard OF Is cent'pique.
one-fourth yard 10 cent baby fannelette. one
bolt white scalloped edging braid for 10 cents
and one skein of mercerized embroidery floss
at cents.
Cut the pique into four pieces, having the
stripes run the length. Stamp a small
spray, a wreath, OF an initial on the pique
and work with embroidery cotton. When
embroidering is finished cut in the shape Of a
plain bib. hemming the edges. and sew on the
scalloped braid, face the back of the bib with
the fannelette and sew narrow ribbons on
each end in the back at the neck for ties.
These bibs wher finished sell for 80 to 70
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
Professional Peaeemaker.

Trouble arises in all families. Husband and
wife are unhappy over differences Lawyers
ices are eTtravagant. Family interference
only makes matters worse. Blessed are the
peacemakers, for they should be well paid" {"
Good. sound advice. comfort, and help are
often needed by poor young wife in the frs.
throes Of matrimonial conflict. The advice
Of the professional peacemaker should be
well paid for.
A good. respectable woman. who has been
through the trials OF life. can hang out hse
shingle and make some money In this vay.
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14

When confronted
with the question Of
what 10 do TO earn her
living. why does the
average girl choose
the fields that al
ready are filed to
pverfiowing?
Especially, why do
girls possessed OF
creative and. artistic
ability take TO ste
biography, telephone
operating. nursing.
and q few Of the
other beaten paths.
for which they have
neither ste nor
aptitude?
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14

ticed in the times Of our great.grandmoth-
ers. We are beginning to see that they un-
derstood what constituted feminine charm
even If they took too much trouble TO at
tain il.
When Dolly Madison was a child her moth
er sewed a sunbonnet on her head every
morning 10 insure its staying there all day:
and the fair and famous Dolly, in the after
days. when she became the noted beauty Of
the White House, doubtless blessed the
maternal foresight that saw the end 10 be
attained by so strenuous a means.
But the summer girl need not so to quite
such lengths as having her bonnet sewed
on. though she will find that the shops
can now furnish her with mighty fetching
little sunbonrets in pink or blue gingham
or lawn-those Of the milkmaid shape hav-
ing fluffy ruffle all around-and within the
becoming shade Of these young face looks
p!Quant.y attractive.
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14

1t is guarded by keys and spies. No woman
is honest who does not wish to be.-Antoine
Dupuy.
Woman is creature between man and the
angels.-Honore de Baizac.
y
Most women caress sin before embracing
pentence.-Jean Gaspard Dubois Fontanelie
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
Said About Womankind

coquette is woman who places her
honor in lottery; ninety mine chances to one
that she will lose it.-Anonymous.
= 4
o. why did God create at last this novelty
On earth, this fair defect of nature?-John
Milton.
TIE honor Of woman is badly guarded when
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
low to Earn Money at Home.

cents each, according to the amount of en-.
brotdery. The material for the four bibs
costs Is cents.
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
Sun Changes Color Of Hair.

1t has been found that the hair becomes
badly sunburnt, as well as the face, chang
ing its color and texture and becoming harsh
and brittle: and even the girl whose skin is
as fine grained as ivory and as delicately
tinted naturally as Sevres china will look
frowzy. REDEEMED. and at her worst after a
hatiess day in the sun and wind
While We may not go back to the extreme
methods Of caring for the complexion prac-
The Washington herald., 1912-07-14
Waning of the Bare I Head Fad.
By HELEN BRANDT.

II there is one fad that has been overdone
more than others it is the fad for goinc
without head coverings. in season and cut
OF season. and with no regard 10 after ef-
fects.
1t is owing to the fact that these after ef-
fccts ale so difficult TO combat and so de-
strCctive OF feminine charm and attractive
ness that We have the reaction which has
now set in, begun several seasons ago and at
present being regarded generally. except in
those provincial places where the persist
emily bare headed girl tosses her wind blown
tresses out Of her eyes and fancies she IS
still IN the height OF the mode in Consgn-
IaS her Chapeau to limbo
For six or seven years, or perhaps longe-.
the bare head fad has dominated the coun-
ITy;
The southern girl. driven by The prevailing
fashion. has faced the tropical sun unbor-
neted intrepIdly as the northern and
western maiden barred her head TO the win
try blasts. 1t is not the bare head fad or
cold weather. however. that is waning: the
college girl delights too much in that TO let
il pass. and she has, moreover. demonstrated
that its efficacy Is making her immune to
colds. 1t is the bare head fad for hot weather
that is now found after a thorough test to
be extremely detrimental to beauty and ut
terly destructive 10 average good looks.
That is why fashion has set the pace in
the other direction, for. no matter how gro
tesque hats and gowns may be- at times,
fashion always aims at preserving facial
beauty.
Not only when motoring but when walking
driving, solfng. boating. and bathing. does
the ultra fashionable girl now wear a hat.
and. on most OF these occasions. a chiffon
veil to protect her complexion and hair from
the coarsening effect OF strong sunlight.
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1912-08-22
$4,000 IN CASH
WITHOUT AN OWNER.
That Amount Is Lost Every Year
In Spokane.

Sounds like fairy story to hear of
farther away than Spokane being lost
every year just because no one claims
Il, and any Inland Empire rancher
could have q share Of It without much
trouble or expense. In fact. the rail
roads are willing to help any one try
for this money. and there b q book
printed each year Just to tell all the
Particular and the easiest way to get
In on this. But. In spite Of everything.
this money 10 left homeless year after
year. Nobody can figure out the rea
con for this. Perhaps the public don't
believe that the money b good. or
maybe they think It b like the April
purses-with stout cord attached
but. a. . matter of fact. the money In
real. and no strin9s Of any kind arr
fastened to It.
All this refers to the spokane Fair
and the money 1t gives away each
year In prizes. The 1912 premium
list was Issued May l. Any one can
have q copy for nothing by writing
the secretary of the Fair. There are
more than $4,000 worth Of prizes list
ed In this book. on which competition
IL open to the world. and yet every
year only one-half to two-thirds of
these prizes are contested for or claim
ed simply because the Inland Empir,
ranchers and citizens don't take the
pains to send In entries.
However an increasing humble,
each year do compete. Since 1904 the
entries have risen from 1881 to 7.4O4
last year, and the Spokane Fair people
anticipate keen competition this year
in nearly every department. One Of
the most interesting will be the old
time county aud district DISPLAY
prizes. for which S2.25O has been nm
propriated. This contest used to be
the feature Of the famous old fruit
fairs and ought still to make a nil
now that there are 90 many new pro
ducing districts.
The railroads are doing everything
possible to hep the Spokane Fair and
are not only making very low passen
ger rates for Fair week, Sept 30 tn
Oct. 6. but also special freight and az
press rates OF exhibits. Complete in.
formation about rites may be obtain.
ID from any railroad agent or the sec
Rotary Of the Fair.
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1912-08-22

II Is still regarded as nothing short
of miracle that any man should
= have the power to WELD such
marked influence over any com
munity. large or small. AZ II exercised
by Mayor william J Gayn0r Of New
York The whole spirit Of the town
has changed since be moved into the
city hall There has been II decided
lessening Of the nervous strain which
was supposed to bc u necessary evil in
cident to life In great city aud grad
ual return to more normal state OF
mind
Get on . Hair Trigger.
In former days every administration
seemed to be vet on hair trigger. and
this nerve tension worked its way into
the whole fabric Of the city until II ex
tended down to the bootblacks This
was due primarily. no doubt. TO the
constant crti ism Of the opposition In
municipal affairs and to the know edge
Oh the part OF those who We're criti
cised that much of Il was merited. The
cry of graft" which was continually
being raised In one direction or another
was all that was required to start .
panic among all those who were inter
ested. directly Or indirectly. No soon
er was 1t stilled than trouble would
break out somewhere else
Those In authority felt that the.
must do something. and do II quick
and In their hurry to silence criticism
they often made bad matters worse.
Those who paid the taxes. whether as
property owners Or rent payers. felt
that they were not getting the worth
Of their money. People who worked for
the city Or did business with Il were
required by the time honOred law Of
precedent to pay tribute I" some man
"hiyh..r up BUSINESS mlen caught the
fever and he,unie suspicious Of each
other. and sU II went. with the voice of
accusation always In the air 10
your neighbour or he will do you" be
came the New York mOttU
Cannot % etampsdsd
Under MIR t;aynOI all this has been
cbsnged The people have learned that
at last they have mayor who cannot
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1912-08-22

Photo by American Press Associa ton
MAYOR aAYNoR INSPECTING wAsHNGTon
MARKET
Of his old fashioned notions that ma
tionai politics mas no place In purely
affairs. So. by his direction.
the whole city government OF New
York has been placed on the merit sys-
tenn. ana favoritisIn. influence and
.pull' Of every description have been
done away with
The change came about through the
mayors discovery. in the course Of his
searching investigation into all city
IA 1t had always been enforced was
open to evasion Under the letter Of
the law. when an appointment was to
be made. the civil service commission
certified the names of the nrst three
persons on the list. from which II was
required that the selection be made
When It wax desired to evade the law
and reach some favored person who
stood farther down on the eligible list
the method was for the head Of the de-
partment to pick out one Of the three
0rst named who could be reached"
and tell him that the appointment
would be rendered him. but that be
must decline It: that later on another
place would Be found for him that
would b. just % good or better. but
that for the present he must stand
abide II he wished to retain or win the
friendship OF the politicians. The per
500 knew that II be accepted the ap
pointment he would quickly nnd In
1uences at WORT against him. % be In
variably declined n necessary the.
same performance waa repeated with
the next three who we're certified BY the
commission. and 10 on down the line
until the man who was to have the
place was finally reached. In one In
stance q position went to u man who
at the beginning stood fortieth on the
eligible list All Of those who were
ahead of him with proportionately
higher percentages of efficiency were
obliged to make way for him. The
letter Of the law had been observed
but its spirit had been outraged
Following this discovery Mr. Gaynor
issued an order TO all of his heads Of
departments that all appointments. Of
whatever nature or description. must
be made In numerical order from the
list furnished by the civil service COM
mission. He explained that this nat
urally would result In some injustices
and unsatisfactory appointments. but
they would be trifling as compared with
the iniquities Of the old system. The
effect Of this sweeping mandate was to
take the whole city administration out
Of politics at one stroke Of the pen
Under the old system all heads Of de
partments were forced to devote one
half Of every day to interviews with
politicians who wanted some one given
. job or this or that policeman. fire
man. street sweeper or other employer
promoted. transferred or discharged
Now there Is nothing that can be done
for any politician. no matter how pow
erful he may be. 80 the department
heads are no longer bothered by them.
but are lsft tree to give all Of their
time to the city's business Conse-
Quently they are able to watch things
more closely. and the city II savinR
money and getting better service from
its army Of employees
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1912-08-22

MAYOR GAyNOR AS A YOUNG CRUsADEk.
From photograph taken al the time he
sent Boss" John McKane to the pen.
itentiary for election frauds
be stampeded or carried or his feet.
who regards New York az great bust
ness institution and In determined to
administer Its affairs with absolute
honesty and with no consideration 9th
er than the interests Of its citizens.
who believes that people should be as
honest In theii dealings with the city
AZ IN their relations with each other
ana who holds the rights Of every good
citizen to he sacred and inyiolate
They have weighed him In the balance
some Of them with misgivings at 6rst
through their old skepticism- they
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1912-08-22

There might be higher priced cigars,
bat there are NO better than the Tom
Richardson and Ell Pringo brands. A2tf
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1912-08-22
.CAYNOR FAvORS
Merit SYSTEM
DTdsrs Spirit Of Civil Service
Law inio Effect
TECHNICAL COMPLIANCE ENDED
Favoritisn. Influence and "PulI" Of
Every Description Have Been Done
Away With In the City Government
Money 10 Saved to the Public and
Better Service Given

0ettoT SOTVtCO 0oVOU
has been demonstrated. to the
SurlDrise OF some people. that those
i who predicted. that II William J
t;aynor was elected mayor Of New
FORK he would prove to be a "politica,
tool were bad prophets. Instead VI
catering to the politicians MIR GayuOI
has gone to the other extreme. and
New York. once the mort bOss ridden
community In the country. now has y
more rigid enforcement Of the civil
service system than any other Ameri
can city. The mayor In gss,d party
man and believes In properly conduct
I'd political organiza but 1t In one