Evening journal., 1912-04-20
STYLISH SLEEVES OFFER MUCH VARIETY
With or Without Fuiness
at the Top They Are
Always Becoming.
TENDENCY NOTED
TO SMALLER COLLARS

becoming may have suits and gowns
made that way. while those who like
20 case them in at the top with a few
gathers are equally in mode.
The new long sleeve slightly gath
cred into the armhole is feature Of
this attractive model The buttons
by means Of which It is snugly fitted
TO the arm below the elbow. are a
pretty trimming, being Of a crystal TO
catch those on the waist and skirt
Bronze green taffeta was used 10 de-
Nclop the dress as here pictured and
smart touch is given by the black
velvet tie.
The whole dress is neat and stylish
but it is used primarily as a text for
talk on sleeves which are just now
the object of much thought on the va
rious designers. More variations are
played on this part OF a woman's
dress than on any other. and sleeves
Of every length and style are to be
seem Beginning in the very early
season the new French gowns had
long, tight sleeves which clung close
TO the arm. revealing every line of it's
contour. This was bad news for the
women whose arms were undeveloD-
ed. and perhaps out Of Difference to
their needs the severity was relaxed
little and sleeves became loser. But
the comforts Of the shorter sleeve
were not likely relinquished orce a
/ feminine world had tasted their de-
lights. especially a world of women
who have become feminists enough 10
refuse blind allegiance to the die
tates of the dressmakers. and so the
coats aud dresses to be worn this year
will have sleeves long. three-quarters,
elbow length or short. as milady pre-
ters and as accords best with the gem
cral plan Of each particular gown.
Few women find the three-quarter
sleeve becoming. preferring the one
that ends either at the elbow or tho
wrist, but for the coat, which is to be
worn with gloves, il Is a good and
comfortable length. A long glove,
slightly wrinkled mousquetaire fash
ion finishes out the unexpired term
of The sleeve and its unbroken wrist
line gives a more slender look TO a
pretty hand Such a sleeve as this is
better sewn without fulness into the
armhole. as will be seen by a COM
parison of tho two illustrations IN
this letter. While the slightly gath
cred sleeve in Figure I Is appropriate
for linen taffeta or lightweight wool
en- dresses Of all kinds. a delightfully."-
smart and tailored look Is given by
the sleeve in Figure 2. This will be
equally true of a coat made Of any
mannish suiting as of the taffeta coat
illustrated below. Built on simple.
conservative lines this suit is Just
such a one as should be included in
the summer wardrobe of every wo-
man who goes out at all. Dark gray
linen with white pique collar and
cuffs. gray Milan straw bonnet with
wreath of tiny purple pansies and bow
of black velvet ribbon and a pale gray
silk parasol complete a stunning cos
tune as fresh as a summer morning
itself
Sharing with sleeves the interest of
the day is the proper length of the
new coats. II was impossible to Judge
from conflicting n2ports early in the
season what length would eventually
be accepted and in fact almost every
cut was seen ON one gown or another.
While conservative taste still adj
heres TO thirty-four inch coat, it is
undeniable THAT one of twenty-eight