Walker Lake bulletin. (Hawthorne, Nev.) 1883-1926, 1912-07-09

ueutS-SOue Ol Tie nOSl Interesting
and picturesque, no doubt, which sur
vived in Rome from the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries. 1t was here that
VanoZza, the mother Of Caesar Borgia.
owned hosiery, and here, as one
wandered in the crowded narrow
streets near the Via del Orso, one
could best realize the appearance OF
the city and its strange mixture OF
squalor and magniticence 400 years
ago.
Ghetto Has Vanished.
But nowhere has the modern Roman
made a cleaner sweep than in the
famous Ghetto, that Jewish quarter
which was the most compressed and
intricate tangle of lanes in the ancient
city. nest of dirt, disease and pow
erty indescribable. The fish market
within the portico of Octavia went
years ago. 1t is hard to realize that
in this place the Jews of Rome were
herded together like hogs, insulted,
hated, robbed and prosecuted, and yet
multiplied and even occasionally grew
rich. The Church of st. Angelo, in
which once a year the Jewish elders
were compelled to listen to a sermon
preached against their religion, still
remains, but the entire quarter lying
between it and the river has vanished
You may read in history OF the sui
fering of the Ghetto folk when the
Tiber overfiowed its banks, and how
the inhabitants shifted their goods
into the upper stories of the houses
from boats.
In other quarters OF the city SAM
tary methods were conspicuous by
their absence. In many OF the streets
walking was well nigh impossible ow-
ing to the habit of casting all domestic
refuse into the open street. The mar
kets of Rome, once the most interest
ing of Europe, have fallen into line
with the less picturesque but more
regulated markets Of the great cap
itals. The huge cattle market just
outside the Porta del Popolo, has MI
grated to a corner of Rome not far
from the old Protestant cemetery, but
pagna horsemen with their goatskin
aprons and OK goads no longer form
a feature of the Piazza del Popolo,
nor do the unwieldy vehicles piled
high with the quaking carcasses OF
pigs and oxen any longer rumble down
the Ripetta or the Babuino thing
of the past, too, is tue peoples mar
ket In the Piazza Navona, where every
thing that flew or ran or crawled could
be purchased. Gone, also, is the mar
ket in the Piazza Montanara, under
the Theater of Marcellus, where the
laborers were hired every Sunday
morning at a certain hour. With the
spread of education the letter writing
scribe who formerly did a roaring
trade in the penning of love notes for
enthusiastic but illiterate peasants,
ha slikewise disappeared.
Good hotels, boarding houses. and
furnished apartments of all sizes, and
suitable to all purses, afford that COM
Portable accommodation which was
lacking or far too expensive in Haw-
thornes time. Artists are now board
ed and lodged like ordinary mortals;
they no longer dwell in marble halls
surrounded by medieval dust and
dirt. The foreign visitor is no longer
menaced with fever, for malaria
thanks to the greater cleanliness, bet
ter drainage, more space and higher
ground-has practically vanished. The
death rate has been reduced to Is per
thousand against ia for Paris and
ISL for Berlin. Rome thus ranks
among the most healthy of European
capitals.