Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1911-07-29
IN THE WORLD OF DRESS
By MAupE GRIFFIN.

New York, July 29.-The woman
who is scrupulously careful of her
wardrobe must look well to the length,
shape and details OF the little summer
coat. This little outer garment has
developed into an article of such SUI
preme Importance that 1t is absolutely
essential to the completeness of a
wardrobe.
1t Is never better than when fash
Toned in the handsome eyelet en-
broideries and TO give the mid-season
coats variety the French and London
dressmakers are adding new touches
that are worthy OF consideration. New
York has become such an important
factor in the world of dress that II can
afford to discard what pleases 1t not
in the productions of foreign creation,
but New York, too, elects to essay the
novelties of the midsummer wrap
from across the pond"
Splendid looking is model in eye
let embroidery that reaches just be-
low the hips. Rather heavy linen, but
OF fine weave, is used for the coat,
the bottom of which is faced with a
band OF heavy but lustrous finished
silk which, In turn, is piped with a
very narrow black cord. Appliques oil
eyelet embroidered linen are added to
enhance the effectiveness OF this fac
ing and the sleeves and front OF the
coat are trimmed with a border OF
eyelet embroidered wheels, sewed to-
gether, and piped with black stitched
on with gold threads.
These coats look very good over
lingerie frocks or dresses of silk or
satin. They are, in fact. a splendid
finish to gowns of any of the smart
fabrics of the season For early fall
they will be reproduced in pongee and
surak silk and provided with founda-
lions of silk or satin, but in their I'M
lined state they form a handsome ad-
dition to a summer frock. Since there
is absolutely no warmth to the coats,
II Is an easy matter to wear them at
any hour OF the afternoon as we'll as
evening.
Coat lengths promise to be burn.
ing topic in the merry war OF chang
ing fashions for autumn, but the great
est interest will center in the begin
ming OF the battle about skirts and
sleeves. The general opinion seems to
be that the kimono sleeve must go,
yet some of the bets houses Of Paris
are turning out dresses and waists
with this sleeve featured as prominent
ly as IL 1t were 10 dernier cri. They
remember how the battle cry was
raised against the much abused but
idolized by the make 1t in jiffy dress
maker last summer, but without effect,
except to increase the number and va
riety of the kimono sleeve. Neverthe-
less the law of probabilities seem to
be in favor of carryign out the decree
this time.
AS matter of fact the sleeve and
shoulder effect implied by the term
kimono has had surprisingly long
lease of popularity, and while unde-
niably charming, has brought about
that note of monotony just referred to.
The heat of battle will be waged
about the skirt, however. 1t is assert
ed by people who are haunting the
Partisan ateliers and studying the
latest models that plait!ngs are multi
plying, that is, that more and more
models are showing plalts introduced
in some clever way without apparent
ly widening the lines of the skirt. The
same is likewise true of tucks. One OF
the nevis skirts of the season Is
plain silk, splendidly embroidered and
trimmed about the waistline with
groups of tiny tucks, outlined with in
sertions of heavy Cluny. The en-
broidery is centered in the front panel
of the skirt, continuing around the
sides we'll toward the back. 1t is
pattern that may be duplicated in linen
or any of the other materials of the
season, but as the summer is so rapid
ly waning the woman who has much
to spend upon dress would do well to
invest in the soft silks or semi-silky
fabrics that will be appropriate for
street wear in the early autumn, then