Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-02-20

town in Pennsylvania; an American con-
nected with the Harvard College OBJ
servatory at Arequipa. an expert pho
tographer armed with cameras; young
Englishman. champion Of the antiquity
and impressiveness Of Stonehense as
and a young Scotch doctor just out OF
the South American wilds. as member
Of the commission to establish for Boz
liyia the Peru Bolivian boundary.
Our cruise was full of strenuous ex-
element. We sailed from Puno at night
and in few hours our little steamer
was tossing in the rough waters Of the
lake with a more violent motion than
the Atlantic or Pacific impaired to any
ship on which l sailed during the whole
circumnavigation of South America. Then
at funsuyo We ran aground 4 submerged
ancient wall or elevated road prevents
access to the harbor of Yunguyo, but
depressions at certain points permit yes-
Yavari stuck fast in seeking to find and
utilize one of these depressions. and for
several hours We were wrecked on the
roof OF the world. Some OF our disem-
barkations al the lake ports We're
memorable, as when made from a row.
boat, over which waves We're breaking,
on the backs OF Aymara Indians. Then
our explorations after landing involved
in most cases breathless, neart-break-
ing scramble up steep hill, or mountain
sides at an elevation OF nearly $4,000
feet. when every step meant distress to
the average lungs and heart.
On the Yavari the standard of interest
was maintained by exciting discussions of
lake and archaeological topics and heated
controversies over the accuracy and re-
liability Of statements of fact and opin-
ION by writer's concerning the sights Of
the lake. Battles RACED over such ques
tons as whether the lake would or would
not freeze: whether its water was or was
not drinkable and wholesome: whether it
was or was not unfat1OnJable: whether
this or that broken-down wall Of rough
rock represented pre-lrca or Inca struc-
ture or the ruin Of an Indian hoveI OF the
day before yesterday: whether William
Eleroy Curtis and Marie Robinson
Wright and others in their glowing de-
scriptions OF luxurious palaces and i'm
pressive temples alleged to have occupied
these sites were Munciausens either in
their own right or by virtue of too
great reliance on Munchausens among
the early Spanish chroniclers.
Llemas, Alpacas and Vicunas.
The Yavari touched at half dozen In
dian lake ports, each with some feature
OF interest At Pomata. a village of low,
gray -thatched adobe houses. the principal
sight was the Jesuit Church Of Santiago.
of reddish stone. with red tiled dome.
building apparently many sizes too large
FOR Pomata. begun in 17G; and not yet
completed. so far as the towers are cor
cerned. The elaborate stone carvings at
the entrances to the church distinguish it
among the churches of the lake region.
In the plaza of Pomata We saw q flock
of llamas. the peculiar and character
istic beasts of burden of the high plateau.
The raref1ed atmosphere weakens or kills
horses and mules. The llanas and their
cousins. the alpacas and the vicunas are
native to it. and thrive nowhere else. The
llama. which in appearance suggests a
cross Of camel and sheep, is to the pIa-
teau-dweller as the camel is to the deS-
ert dwe!ler. 1t Is more than burden
carries. and a means of transportation. 1t
feeds him and clothes him, and in a
woodless country keeps him warm with
dung fuel. The llama has a small head.
large, luStrous eyes and curving gi-
raffe-like neck. The alpaca is related to
the llama. but biologists dispute about
the exact relationship. The alpaca wool
is considered the finest in tie world. The
alpaca has a neck like the llama. but is
shorter and clumsier. The vicuna Is still
smaller. In eyes. head and delicate pro-
poi tons resembling a fawn. The royal
robes of the Incas were. it is said. made
exclusively from the wool supplied by its
long, silky hair. Rich golden brown
vicuna rugs are today the most valued
souvenirs OF 4 visit to La Paz. The all
for their skins as fur and their hair as
wool. The llama, as ! have said, is also
a burden-carrier and a general utility
animal. 1t strikes and quits work il
called on to carry over 100 pounds OF
burden. and it splits in defense or attack.
These curious and distinctive animals
give 10 the plateau a needed touch of
the strange and foreign.
Another unique feature Of the plateau is