Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-03-19

| venise relieves the rather old effect OF
| the dark satin under the face. Often.
| too, there are touches of vivid color in
Bulgarian embroidery or the bright Turk
| fish embroidery. which is also fad: But
very little of the vivid color is used, and
this only around the coat collar or revers.
Speaking OF collars, one may not re-
member the Easter tailored wear and
forget the almost inevitable sailor collar
which finishes at least half the new
coats Sometimes this sailor collar Is
| a tiny affair set on instead of an ordi-
nary turned down coat collar of satin or
velvet. Sometimes it falls almost to the
waist line and I'm front extends below the
waist in broad shawl rerers. on cross
ing over the other toward the left side,
where the fastening is arranged.
: The woman with q short neck and
fat hack should avoid the sailor collar,
| which emphasizes these points. But on
the very slender woman the deep square
collar is charmingly graceful. The sailor
collar has suggestion OF youthfulness
which is sure to make it immensely pop
ular. but because Of this popularity the
| fashion Is likely to lose caste ere long
and become commonplace.
Three of the Easter suits pictured to-
day are trimmed with sailor collars. and
that the big collar gives youthful and
jaunty air to the whole suit. The blue
serge model is a typical spring style
for general street wear. aud shows the
lar force this year. The whole suit is
designed OH slender. graceful lines, though
matter of fact the skirt is wider by
half a yard than tie skirts of the win
ter. Dark blue serge is the material of
this suit. and the braid trimming is black.
the soutache braidng on the collar being
done on black satin. The tiny pleated
| ruff1e around the edge of this collar and
also at the top of the cuff is an attractive
notion.
The manner OF applying the wide black
braid on jacket and skirt is particularly
| smart AS the photograph shows, a very
broad strip of this braid passes around
the coat just below the bust, and
similar strip encircles the skirt between
two stitched folds OF the material, a
three-inch tuck being set in above the
upper fold. Like the coat, the skirt
fastens down the left front with loops
of satin and braid over crocheted
| "acorns.''
With this chic little blue serge costume.
| which will doubtless be duplicated in gen.
eral style in every material suitable for
spring and summer tailored wear. is worn
one of the dashing hats which are caught
back almost directly in front. the hat be-
ing tipped the least bit toward one side
in order to show the waves of hair. The
hat in question has something of the sug-
gestion of the Robin Hood cap of the win
ter. except that the brim has a decided
flare away from the crown This hat is
of ceriSe straw faced with black velvet.
and the spreading aieret is caught under
the rolled pack brirn with an ornament CT
black satin and steel
Another Easter hat. similar in shape
and manner of wearing but quite different
in color, is shown with the graceful Elton
suit of violet material. This hat is of
violet milan with brim facing of deep
violet-colored velvet Aigret and rosette
ornament at the front are in harmonizing
shades of the same color.
The eton. it appears. has come to stay.
This cannot be doubted when such MAX
ers as Worth. Bernard and Martial Ar
mand stand sponsor for it. Women who
prefer the trim. mannish style of coat do
not favor the graceful little eton, which is
peculiarly feminine in type, but there are
possibilities of dressy features in an eton
tailored suit never to be achieved in tine
mannish model. which is, after all, only
intended for street and trotabout use.
The eton suit in violet shades is by
Bernard and, as the photograph indicates,
the material is most simply used in long
lines which even the little overskirt eff
feet does not break. The rows of tiny
The eton jacket, on the contrary. is law
ishly trimmed. The soutache braiding is
in three blending shades of violet and the
revers are of white velvet, these revers
opening over lItle vest WHICH CTOSScS
| in surplice style. The coat is finished
| with a broad sailor collar, also elaborate
ly braided.
Even more elaborate in type is the
Martial Armand suit shown in another
picture. This costume shows a high
| wasted skirt and short eton. or bolero
jacket coming to the top of this high
skirt. If the French maker had tried to
reproduce the patriotic American blue
and buff of revolutionary days he could
not have succeeded better than in the
combination of blue and pale tan cloth Of
which this dainty suit is built. The two
| shades are cleverly blended by a trim
ming line of blue fagoting set between
narrow folds Of the blue material.
The skirt is particularly graceful, with
its deep band Of blue, rising in scallops
toward the back on the lighter fabric.
The little jacket is incontestibly French
and opens in front in a deep square to