The Washington herald., 1911-12-24

| the mousseline de sole drapery. 1t is
astonishing how little material is re-
quired to make a waist after this model,
and an excellent effect can be obtained
with black and white when there is no
color scheme to be carried out.
One of the most effective models of the
winter is of white satin with long train
of black velvet. The upper part of the
waist and the sleeves are of the sheerest
black chiffon in what might be called a
modified kimono style and the sleeves are
edged with a narrow band of diamante
trimming. The contrast to this black and
white in color and material is most strik-
ing, while the chiffon makes it much more
becoming and softer. A favorite style
this winter, and one that is most becom-
ing, shows just inside the black chiffon a
band of the sheerest white. This is hem
stitched and only the edge of it may be
seen, but it is much more becoming to
most women than is the black so close to
the face. Often the black chiffon is lined
with flesh colored chiffon or tulle, which
permits of the gown being cut much
lower, for the effect of immodesty can by
this means be rectified. The present
] fashion demands as long a line from the
shoulder to the bust as possible, and, as is
well known, the low bust corset is now
obligatory. At the same time it is not
considered smart to have the evening
gown immodest. The same idea is notice
able in the street gowns, which are now
made with yoke and collar of plain trans
parent net to give the effect Of the collar
less blouse or waist.
Different Shades of Yellow.
Different shades of yellow combined
work out well in any Of the models de-
scribed, and there are so many effective
embroideries in yellow and gold, as we'll
as in the same silk embroidery, that it is
a comparatively simple task to have a
theatre gown that is not absurdly ex-
pensive Then If embroidery is not de-
sired the finish of the hemstitching of
the chiffon is very smart or the fold OF
satin of this same shade, or, IL 50 desired,
a shade or two darker. The great point
to be considered in selecting colors for
these gowns is that they should look well
under artificial light, and this point Is
not carefully enough looked after, as a
rule. Grays, mauves-in fact, all shades
of purple and blues-are especially disap-
pointing If chosen by daylight and in
tended to be worn in the evening, and
when two colors and two materials are
to be combined, the danger is greater.
It only means spending little more time
and thought in the FIRST selection, and
that Is just what the woman who is
known as being smartly gowned finds
worth while. The craze for black and
white has by no means taken from the
of the all black gown, which
is always so useful for Just such pur-
poses as theatre and restaurant 1t Is
now more often relieved with white, and
the use of steel, silver and gold IN the
trimming b both effective and popular.
gowns for the moment are not
30 smart, and Jet on the best authority 1t
& said that the more expensive spangiedI
gowns are desirable in every way. One
Of the most charming models Of the win
Ter Is Of transparent black chiffon or net
made MP over black satin. and trimmed
With wide embroidery Of emerald and jet
beads IN . square geometrical pattern.
The upper part Of the waist and thel
sleeves are Of the embrsidery. This Il AMI,
exceedingly smart gown, but the same
idea a. regards color. material and trim