New-York tribune., 1911-10-01
&RE ASHTON a''a
The CUR of Se0erffV
II Means Elegance in the Right Hands. But fo r
Others 1t Is Full of Danger

! Of blue and taupe that are replacing black
among we'll gowned women are so dark that
20 Is only in certain lights one discovers
they are not black. Safe hats for the home
milliner and easily attainable are the large,
fat forms. wider across than from front
to back, IN beaver or felt, and the Ninicne
hat Both appeared late i'm the summer 60
be trimmed profuscly with uncurled feath-
ers, all sweeping toward the back. Seen
I'm one Of the smartest millinery houses OF
the Rue de la Paix was a Niniche hat COW
cred smoothly with taupe-colored plush and
trimmed with masses OF uncurled ostrich
feathers in taupe and flame color. Under
their waving. flying fronds only a little OF
the hat showed, merely an inch OF TWO OF
the brim.
Plush seems to be preferred TO velvet in
the hats produced this month-plush with
a pile as soft and thick as seal fur. which,
by the way. it closely resembles. In an
extremely heavy quality this plush is re-
placing fur in the composition Of long sep
atate coats. Made Of dark plush. they are
lined with the same material in white.
pale tabac or cream, the lining turning
over into a wide shawl collar and revers
An odd fancy is to line fur coats with fine
colored wool, matching the prevailing tone
in the wool embroidery used TO decorate
the collar and revers, done I'm flowers and
leaves cOarsely initiating those of nature.
This odd embroidery, known by the trade
name OF "agaTiC." done in a curious raised
stitch. recalls that pictured I'm old engrav-
ngs of two and three generations ago,
and then. as now. copied from the work
OF primitive peoples. Wisely used, it has
a strong artistic and decorative value.
A long motor garment OF gray opossum
fur lined with blue woollen material has
a waist-deep collar. covered with blue wool
and embroidered in these raised flowers in
dark red. dull yellow and pale shades of
blue a band of the pretty gray fur edges
the collar. and there are cuffs TO match
A voolen lining TO such garment-one
intended strictly for cold weather-has
practical and comfortable sound. but all
the world knows the difficulty experienced
I'm adjusting a woollen lined cOat-now dis
agroeably IL can cling This strange
woolen agaric embroidery is used iu the
adornment of the finest robes for evening
and for afternoon Wear. 10 is mingled with
velvet and soft leather in belts; II deco
rates the ends of sashes. and it appears
ON great buttons and in large motifs hold
ins lace folds
soft chauseabie silks. turned into even
ing cioaks lined with fine woollen fabric
under final lining of shirred mousselinc
de sole and trimmed with fur, are charm
ing and quite warm enough for Paris
winter or for carriage people IN colder
countries
one Of the prettiest things possible IS
dishabiIle Of pink and yellow changeab.e
taffetas and heavy white lace. The lace
shapes a short sheath gown under plain
sacoue Of the silk This has a small round
collar ruched and frinGed with the silk,
and wider silk ruchings trim all the edges
Of the garment as we'll as the short kimono
sleeves: below these are half long sleeves
Of the lace that cover the elbow The silk
overgarmeut hangs open in front in
straight line from the neck TO hem. There
are no visible means Of keeping the sides
from flying back. but the edges are really
loosely controlled by hidden hooks.
NJ A. T..