davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

A severe. stiff black stock swathing
the neck above the severe gown is
most trying to the average woman.
even when there is the. relieving strip
OF white organdie collar. There are
many graceful styles of tucked net
and crepe neckwear with graceful
jabots and smart bows, of which the
wearer of mourning should take ad-
vantage, and the younger woman may
wear Dutch necked froclks with lit
tie thin tucked net or chiffon set in
around the neck opening to break the
prim blackness. Not every woman
knows that pearls are considered COR
rect mourning, and often string Of
pearls around the base OF q tall, black
collar will make all the difference
between stiffness and becomingness.
Some of the new ideas In mourning
wear are illustrated. The parasol
with it's crepe bands Is particularly
smart, and a parasol of this sort. ac-
companied by q long chiffon cloth
scarf. hemmed with three inches of
crepe all around, would lift the sim
plest and most severe mourning Co.'S
tune to distinction and charm. It is
these little touches that tell and as
long as one chooses to dress In black,
one might as well make the black as
attractive as possible, If only for the
sake of ones neighbors.
Tho dinner frock illustrated shows
what can be done with mourning ma
terials to achieve a graceful and be-
coming costume. The richness of
crepe trimming has been made ths
most of in this costume, and the neck
arrangement is becoming and at the
same time dignihed and in keeping
with mourning requirements. A
Dutch or decollete neck of any
sort should never be worn outside of
the house by the woman in deep
mourning. A scarf of some sort should
always be twisted around the collar
less neck and over the shoulders. A
very graceful mourning scarf may be
MADE OF two yards OF black crepe de
chine. lined with black chiffon cloth
and the ends shirred and weighted
with long tassels.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08
Trains for Everybody But the Debutante-Ar
Evening Gown of Sea Green Chifon-A
lint of Wider Skirts from Paris
New Way To Wear Pearls.

ANGLING, as a social diversion.
has taken a new lease of life.
Never have waltzing and two
~ stepping been as popular in
Washington and New York as they
were the past winter and not only
the debutantes, but their mammas
and even-in one or two INSTANCES
their grandmammas have footed 1t
lightly and evidently enjoyably. Din
nerB are being followed by informal
dances instead of by bridge. and
balls and cotillons by the score are
on the summer program at Newport
and Bar Harbor. Just now the Dos
tom" is the ultra smart step, and
though this so-called waltz is danced
to a valse tempo II is a queer jigging
up and down exercise that resembles
nothing so much as two bantams hop
ping round each other. preparing to
peck. Nevertheless. not to dance the
Boston" is to be out OF it at a mod
ern festivity and everybody is max
ing an effort to acquire this awful
step-even the old beaux who can
remember back as far as the days
OF the ancient "varsuevienna,' as the
valse Vienna used to be called.
But dancing Is indubitably the fash
AlA anu INoAS WOA4AdAA A0kltLB I6duV
for a little country house visit sees
70 Il that several charming dancing
frocks are packed in her trunks.
These little dancing costumes come
under the name of dinner dance
frocks. for almost invariably the long,
late dinner IL followed by an infor-
NAL dance in the ballroom, or If there
70 no ballroom, in the spacious hall,
rugs being taken up and heavy ia
bles and chairs moved back to make
room for the dancing. Sometimes all
the guests are packed into an omni-
bus or into several motor cars and
carried a few miles to another large
country house where a big dance is
in progress. and in such case. OF
course, a more elaborate costume than
the little dinner-dance gown is In
order.
Dancing Gowns With Trains.
No matter what other costumes may
be built with trailing skirts, It has
been for many seasons the custom
20 have short sl<irted dancing Rrocks
and indeed there Is little comfort
in dancing in a skirt that comes be-
low the ankles. Just now. however,
the trained dancing dress is the fad
and It ig really remarkable how grace
fully many women manage these
skirts. Usually the train Is merely
q round or square addition at the
back OF the gown and is set on sep
arately, falling from a panel at the
back and not attached to the skirt
Below the knees. Such q train may
b, lifted and looped over the arm.
the skirt being slightly lifted with
iE Other gowns have q loop of rib
bon II tha back, just above the knees
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08
The DANCING Frock OfEen mas 4 Short Train

and then, of course, there is a chif-
fon petticoat or some similar con-
trivance underneath; but often the
slash is merely a wedge shaped piece,
"gouged' out of the skirt hem and
one catches fascinating glimpses of
silk clad ankles as the dancer moves.
One of today's illustrations shows
the use Of fringe at the bottom of the
dancing dress. This pretty costume,
designed for dinner-dance frock for
country house wear, is made Of yell
low satin over which citron green
chiffon is draped, the green chiffon
being richly embroidered with gold.
Below the handsome embroidery at
the edge of the tunic is a band of
dark green velvet. which tones down
the strong yellows and green of the
frock, and at the edge of this velvet
HEM is the dangling gold fringe
At the waist is a girdle of gold cord.
A Green Mermaid Gown Worn Coro-
nation Week.
An American woman stopping at
the Savoy on the Thames Embark
ment during the Coronation festivi-
ties appeared at dinner one evening
in a sea green gown that attracted
tremendous attention. This gown was
worn at two important balls and re-
ceived the name of "Loreiei'' gown.
It was also called the Mermaid"
frock. A photograph of this beauti-
full costume is printed on today's page,
but the black and white reproduc-
ton gives no idea of the exquisite
color tones. Over the foundation of
shimmering sea green crepe meteor
which clings in sinuous lines about
the figure is a heavy and also cling
ing tunic of net Yaada of tinv cut
steel beads strung on silk. The in
verted v of darker green fabric in
the skirt accentuates the cIingfng eff
feet of the gown and emphasizes the
peculiar mermaid effect. A little fish
tail train at the back is weighted with
steel fringe and this fringe also trims
the transparent sleeves of pearl and
steel embroidered net. Not only the
lines of this clinging and steel weight
ed gown, but its wonderful simmer
ing green color made It the sensa-
ton Of the evening whenever it ap-
peared.
Diamante Gowns Now the Fad.
The craze for scintilIating and bril-
liant costumes seems to have reached
its climax in the chiffon evening
gowns embroidered with small rhine
stones. Some of these gowns are so
brilliant that their wearers are quite
ecipsed and nobody thinks of look
ing at the woman. so wonderful is
her toilette. No really wise woman
Will put on a gown tha- takes away
from her beauty rather than helps to
bring it out; but the frantic anxiety
to have costume that is more splen-
did than anything that has yet been
seen has played sad tricks in many
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08
c/IOLRAZAIG That Is Graceful
as weW0s Correct

LTHOUGH 1t would seem-to
those who have difficulty in
choosing among all the vari-
~ . GUS fabrics and colors present.
ed for the consideration of the shop
per-that the woman ''in black has
few sartoriaI problems; the selection
of mourning wear that shall be be-
coming. satisfactory and at the same
standpoint is no easy matter.
Mourning regulations are by no
means as severe and unbreakable as
they once were, and a great deal of
latitude may be INDUCED in without
laying ones self open to criticism;
but there are certain rules that should
be complied with if the mourning is
to meet the requirements of conven-
tons and good taste.
Pussy, elaborate mourning is always
avoided by women who dress correct
ly and well. Simplicity-and beauty
of materia1-are the first requisites
of mourning garb and frocks, wraps
and hats that are perfectly fashioned
but inconspicuous in style will always
be the smartest and richest sort of
mourning. There are women who
object strenuously to crepe. though
one wonders why this is so. Crepe is
an exceedingly rich and elegant trim
ming; it instantly lifts very simple
little black frock to distinction. 1t
is particularly graceful and Is usu-
ally becoming. in conjunction with the
duh finished fabrics which. used alone,
are apt to be monotonous and dreary
and to make their wearer insignia
cant.
A widows mourning is of course the
deepest. She wears a crepe or gren-
adine veil over the face for at least
six months, and back from the face
for six months to a year longer. The.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08
to natch

instances with good judgment.
A typical diamante gown is pic
tured on the young woman seated
on the arm of a chair. The entire
tdnic of this dinner-dance costume
is embroidered with small rhinestones
set in close rows in straight and
oblique lines. The edges of the tunic
are finished with embroidery, which
com bines rhinestones, silver cord and
pearl beads. The brilliant effect of
this tunic may be imagined, and the
brilIiancy is the chief feature Of the
gown, for the coloring is rather sub
dued, the rhinestone embroidered tu-
mic falling over a white jupe at the
foot of which is a band Of black
chiffon. The hair is banded with a
simple f1llet of white satin, but su-
perb earrings of diamonds set in sill
yer with swinging pendants of soli-
taire stones complete the richness of
this costume.
Simple Dancing Gowns for Summer
Evenings.
Not all women. however, care to
scintillate or to cause a sensation. and
there are hosts of charmingly pretty
evening gowns designed for wear at
country house week ends or at sum-
mer hotels where there is dancing in
the evening or at least on one even
ing of the week. Marquisettes of silk
weave come with beautiful embroid-
cred or printed borders and these ma
terials make lovely dancing frocks,
the lines being kept extremely SIM
p1e-usually a straight. high-waisted
tunic skirt, being divided from a lit
tie peasant supplied bodice by q cord
girdle or a girdle and sash. Many
red evening frocks are appearing with
midsummer, for red is a fashionable
color on the Continent this year be-
cause of the Coronation and Queen
Mary's penchant for the vivid hue,
and the only possible time to wear
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

A Smart Paraso9 I'm Mourning Style.
ing froclxs. Henrietta, dull finished
cashmere. crepe de chine. dull crepe
meteor and chiffon cloth are all used
for house and evening costumes for
the deepest mourning. Tailored wear
should be of dull serge or worsted.
The widow wears white organdie
collars and cuffs throughout the pc
Rod of mourning, and there may also
be a touch OF white crepe at the front
of her bonnet or under the brim of
her hat. For a mother, daughter, son.
sister or brother the period OF mourn
ing Is also two full years and the
mourning is similar to that of a
widow, except that the crepe veil is
worn over the face but three months
and less crepe is used in trimmings
and accessories.
White crepe and white net have
been used for mourning during the
past few seasons, and some OF the
collar and cuf sets of white crepe.
designed for use with black frocks.
are becoming and attractive. There
are also dainty white net neckwear
sets, with hens and little stiff bows
of the white crepe. These bits of
daintiness lend a charm and pretti-
ness which give interest and charm
to the sombre mourning robes.
The woman in mourning should pay
particular attention to two things:
the lines of her simple costumes, and
the manner of trimming at the neck.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

veil of grenadine may be draped over
hat and face for the first six months,
and after that a veil bordered with
crepe bands of narrow grosgrain rib
bon.
II a crepe veil is worn the widow
wears trimming of crepe on her gowns
and small dress belongings for eight
cen months, and it should be remem-
bered that when crepe is worn no
other trimming, with the exception
OF net or chiffon cloth, is permissi-
Bile. Lace, embroidery or even dull
jet passementeries are not in good
taste with crepe, and of course no
woman with any knowledge OF the
conventionalities of dress would COM
NIT the error of wearing velvet, satin
or any similar trimming with mourn
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

and with a graceful, sweeping mo-
ton the dancer stoops and catches
this ribbon loop over her arm, lift
ing the skirt daintily about her an
l1les. Because of the very soft, limp
materials used for evening costumes
just now, and the dearth of petit
coats beneath the frock, this lifting
of the narrow skirt while dancing
draws the clinging material closely
about the limbs and the effect is
rather too revealing to suit a good
many women. The new English
Queen. in particular, has expressed
herself very plainly on the subject
Of these clinging. narrow dancing
skirts and has forbidden them at her
court Whether or not Queen Mary's
veto will change the fashion immedi-
ately is an interesting speculation. but
it is significant fact that already a
wider skirted dancing costume has
been brought out in Paris.
A New cripple" Skirt Hints at Wider
Lines.
This new dancing costume is by
Beer and the skirt, cut in the old cir
ouIar style, forms a graceful ripple
about the feet and sweeps away in a
little demi-train at the back. Beer
has turned out several of these mod
els. One particularly pretty one, worn
during Coronation week in London,
was of pale maize colored satin char
meuse and the skirt was slashed to
the knee at one side Of the front, a
wedge shaped pleating of maize chif-
fon showing beneath. A f1chu of the
chiffon. laid in soft folds, crossed the
shoulders and formed the short sleeves
and the long points. crossing at the
bust line, passed around to the back
and were held by a pearl and topaz
clasp. thence trailing to the skirt hem.
Another pearl and topaz ornament
held the folds of the chiffon hchu at
the bust.
Another Beer dancing frock with
this new Ripple skirt was of sea
shell pink charmeuse. the skirt being
slashed to the knee over a chiffon
petticoat Of the same shade and the
edges OF the slashed portion being
finished with short gold fringe. This
fringe continued around the bottom
OF the skirt-a very chic notion, by
the way in Paris just now, even tall
ored suits showing q trimming of
dangling fringe at the bottom of the
skirt One side of the bodice OF this
pink dancing gown was of the pink
satin. and the satin appeared to be
falling of to reveal an under bodice
OF gold embroidered pink net The
waistline was emphasized with a
heavy gold cord whose tasseled ends
fell to the ankle.
Slashed Skirts Now the Fad.
Almost every dancing frock that
Cabot has turned out this season has
been slashed up at the side. Some
times the slash reaches to the knee
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

red in America during dogday weather
Is in the cool of the evening. 4 little
red marouisette frock worn at New
port last week was charming. The
fiI1ny red marquisette hung in
straight tunic over white satin en-
broidered with red paiIlettes, the deep
white satin hem appearing beneath
the red tunic. White slippers and
stockings were worn with this red
and white frock. but in the hair was
a band of brilliant Coronation red
satin.
Tbs wearer Of this red frock wore
her string Of pearls In a new and de-
cidedIy interesting way. Instead Of
encircling her throat the string of
beads traiIed In a festoon from one
side Of the decolIetage to the other.
each end being held under handsome
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

brooch. Pearl beads are also worn
straight up and down, outlining the
edge of a rever, or jabot, with
brooches at either end as fastenings.
A charming red dinner gown for
Casino wear is illustrated. This gown
OF Coronation red marquisette is
draped over white charmeuse, the
chiffon bodice being laid over Irish
lace. The red chiffon is embroidered
effectively with scintillating red pail
lettes and the single immense plume
which trims the white straw hat
shades from the deep red to a pale
pink tint
Another pretty dinner gown, also
illustrated, Is of mustard yellow chif-
fon embroidered with gold threads, a
fine gold fringe trimming bordering
the sleeve and draped tunic.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

When the Long Crepe Ven is not
Desired.
midd1e-aged woman usually has this
long veil draped from q closely fit
ting bonnet or toque, but the young
widow may wear her veil draped from
a round hat or larger toQue which
forms a becoming frame for the hair.
II the long veil is objected to. short
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-07-08

"LTHOUGH 1t would seem-to
those who have difficulty in
choosing among all the vari-
- = GUS fabrics and colors present.
The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1911-03-01

DO you know that of all the minor
ailments colds are by far the most
dangerous? 1t is not the cold itself
that you need to fear, but the serious
diseases that it often leads to. Most
of these are known as germ diseases.
Pneumonia and consumption are
among them. Why not take Chamber
lain's Cough Remedy and cure your
cold while you can? For sale by all
dealers.
The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1911-03-01

When man comes along whining
that he is the victim of circumstances
the chances are that the circum
stances were contained within iron
bound slaves and labeled "Old Rye
Not infreQuently the exalted lodge
member, the whack of whose gave
brings all the members up standing
takes off his shoes outside the door
when he goes home, lest he waken his
wife.
The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1911-03-01

ambassadors spirits. His thoughts
would stray to Barbara and her mis-
fortune, which seemed so deep and ir-
reparable. He had eventually accept
ed his wife's diagnosis as to Daunt's
tendresse, but he had a confidence
that his secretary of embassy, though
hard hit, would bear no scars. He
could not guess all that lay beneath
the brave domino Daunt was wearing.
The affair was late one, with vari-
GUS native advertisements; top spin
ners, painters whose exquisite brush
etchings, done in few seconds, were
given as mementoes to the guests, and
jugglers who, utterly without para
phernalia, caused live fowl to appear
in impossible places. Toward the
close the, ambassador found himself
seated beside the minister of marine.
VERY clever" he said, as Chinese
pheasant flew out of an inverted opera
hat. II almost believe he could pro-
duce my missing dog if he were prop
erly urged
"Have you lost one?" asked the ad-
miral. "I'm sorry"
The ambassador laughed. 1T was
really something of a relief" he said,
and told the story of the Russian wolf
hound which had so curiously disap-
peared on the evening of Doctor Ber-
sonin's call. "The oldest thing about
it," he ended, lis that though the name
of the embassy was on his collar, moth
ing has been heard of him."
The two men chatted for some time
on things in general, the conversation
veering to the squadron. The ambas-
sador thought the other seemed some
what distract. At two the affair ended
and the carriages drew up to the
windy porte cochere. There was con-
fidential matter which the ambassador
wished to speak of with his host. He
had mentioned it, but no fitting oppor-
tunity had occurred. At the door the
admiral recalled it, suggesting with a
quizzical reference to the others
American fondness for late hours that,
as his house was on the way, the am
bassador stop there, while they had
their talk over cigar. The latter,
therefore, departed in the admirars
carriage, and Daunt drove alone to the
embassy, directing the coachman to
go in a half-hour for his chief.
In the past three days Daunt had
fought a constant battle. Every fea-
ture of that night at. Nikko was stamp
ed indelibly on his mind. The passion
ate resentment, the agony OF protest
that had come to him at the ball, when
he had received the torn fragments OF
his letter to Barbara, returned in dou-
BILE force, opposing the strange, new
sense of shame that his thought should
follow her even into the tragic shad-
ow where she now dwelt Yet-for
fancy will not be denied-hls brain
would again and again circle the same
somber treadmill:
We have done those things which
we ought not to have done! He
seemed to hear her say it on the dark
hillside. Her voice had had that in 1t
which, against his will, had thrilled
him. What had she done that she re-
GREETED? She had spoken of the day
in the cave at Enoshima-had seemed
to wish him to believe that she had
not then been acting a part. Could
The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1911-03-01

mere op1nion-it is too assured for
that. Some interest or individual
abroad is apparently banking heavily
on the belief that Japan is about to
enter period of stress!"
The ambassador spoke for the first
time. "Abroad?" he said shrewdly.
The admiral looked at him an in
slant without speaking. His express
sion changed swiftly. He rose and
went quickly to the telephone in the
next room.
"He is talking with the secret serv-
ice," said Daunt in low tone.
In few moments their host re-
turned. There was something in his
face that made the ambassadors keen
eye kindle. 1.-THE suggestion was most
pertinent" he said. There is one
man in Japan who, exclusive of the
commercial codes, has sent in the past
two days cipher kilograms to New
York, London and Berlin"
He took short turn about the room
in some agitation. "Your EXcellency,'
he said, stopping short, 81 make con-
fident of you. That man is Doctor
Bersonin."
The ambassador started
pray absolve me-" said the admiral
quickly, "from an apparent indiscre-
ticn. Doctor Bersonin is no longer in
the Japanese service. His contract eX-
PRED at noon today. 1t will not be re-
newed. AS one of my government l
speak to you, as the representative OF
your government, concerning a private
individual whose acts are in the
purview of us both. The circumstances
are extraordinary, but l think the &C.
casion justifes this conversation"
He rang bell sharply and his priv
ate secretary entered. Bring me-" he
said in Japanese. report number elev-
en- OF Lieutenant Ishida Hetaro."
When it was brought he turned to
leaf UNDERSIGNED with red. Your Ex-
cellency," he said, interested me pro-
foundly this evening by the account OF
the disappearance of your dog. l am
going to ask Mr.. Daunt-who reads
japanese so fiuently-to give a run
ming translation of this
Daunt took the manuscripts per-
tectly executed as an inscription in
Unical Greek-and began to read. AS
he translated, his breath came more
quickly, and the ambassador leaned
forward across the table. Yet the
words chroncled nothing more than
the curious disappearance from the
laboratory of tiny song bird-and q
steel pen rest. The close OF the mar
rative drew an exclamation from the
ambassadors lips. For it told o.:
feathery sprays of reddish-brown pow
der on the experts desk, and he SEEM
ed to see himself, his study lamp in
his hand, bending over curious
whorls of dust on his own piazza.
May l ask" said the admiral.
whether the episode OF the dog sug-
eested to Your EXcellency the posi-
bilty that your caller might himself
be able to solve the mystery of the an
nals disappearance"
The ambassadors reply came SLOW
ly, but with deliberate emphasis:
ut did. The more so, from our pre-
yious conversation. In my study |
have the model of dreadnaught. We
were discussing this, and the doctor
The Denison review. [volume] (Denison, Iowa) 1867-current, 1911-03-01
Ice Boating

calls for a cool head, steady
nerves and a willingness to
endure the sting of the
winter wind.
There is one thing worth re-
membering, however, and that
is to avoid and guard against re-
action or exhaustion following
outdoor winter exercise.