davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1911-08-20
A HOMEMADE HAMPER.

NNE Of the things especially needed
~ about home is a hamper, and for
this simple box may be utilized to
the satisfaction Of all members OF the
family. The homemade hamper takes
up less space than one Of those pur-
chased. Take box three feet long. two
feet wide and about thirty inches in
height. Cover with table oilcloth tblue
looks best when the hamper is intended
for the tiled bathroom) and attach
handles Of nickel. The inside of the box
is enameled white, and the first division
is used for stockings and fiannels. the
middle and largest for table and bed
linen, towels, etc., and the third for lin
gerie and other wearing apparel
There can be a pocket of the oilcloth
Evening star., 1911-08-20

instead of tapering in to give graceful
and smart lines. But the we'll cut top
coat. with its loose shoulder and big
sleeves. is usually becoming to all figures.
and often in the new coats with fastening
over toward one side the buttons may
be moved a bit one way or the other to
give right lines.
coat with very beautiful lines is the
two-tone model illustrated. This coat is
not made of reversible cloth, but of two
distinct materials, a heavy Scotch mix
ture of gray and purple threads and
broadcioth in light violet color harmo-
nizing with the coat material The pho
tograph shows how the violet broadcloth
is used in trimming effect, the long rever
In most graceful manner. This coat
fastenS far to one side with a single but
ton of dull gray bone. Similar buttons
Evening star., 1911-08-20

fastened to the inside of the cover. with
a nickel-tipped tack for handkerchiefs
and neckwear. The upper part of the
pocket is hemmed and then run with an
elastic to prevent il from sagging and
bulging. On the outside of the box there
can be another pocket fastened which
serves as receptacle for the shoe brush
and polisher. The height of the box
makes it a convenient emergency nest
in the bathroom.
The oilcloth covering is sanitary and
more durable than a coating of enamel
would be. In making the hamper. the
first thing to be considered is the dividing
of the box into the three compartments.
This is an easy matter however In case
il is intended for some other room than
the bathroom, il can be covered with
other material more in harmony with Its
proposed location.
Evening star., 1911-08-20
Do You Trim a?
From Outina

FrOm OutIHB'
Very little additional expense OF time
and thought spent with the shears great
ly increases photographs efficiency. Set
it down for a rule that no print Is finished
until 1t is trimmed and that few pictures
are so we'll composed on the film that
they would not be better for some prun-
ing" This is not a paradox - that
strength, suggestive qualities, balance
and a touch of the art interest may be
added by making subtract.ons.
Look to the sides. Most OF all. be care
full not to unbalance the picture by trim
ming. And don't be in too much of q
hurry. Don't shear until you are certain
about what effect on the whole arrange
ment the subtraction will produce. To
cut off the waste space at the top after
this will be easy.
Evening star., 1911-08-20

the cheeks. Pink Is a better color, bu.
the palest of pinks> must be selected and
the material of the dressing gown should
be exquisitely soft and graceful. link
cashmere, scalfoped by hand, makes
warm and pretty invalid's gown. Hand
scmer gowns are mad. OF pleated chiffen
and cream lace. Plenty of ia,;e should
fall at sleeve edges and in jabot effect
at the front, for the emaciated couya-
lescent needs plenty of aid in the way of
soft, lacy frills at neck and wrists. The
lap covering illustrated is made Of orien-
tai silk crepe, with a border of thi n pink
silk to match. layer of cotton Wadding
being placed beneath the silk border, and
the whole cover being lined with light
flannel between the cute. aid inner lay
ers of crepe. The slippers are soft and
heelless and are made of the crepe with
trimmings of plain pink silk.
Another style of invalid slippers which
can be made very easily from fancy dres-
den ribbon is pictured. The beauty of.
these slippers is that they may be donned
without STOPPING and slipped off readily
az we'll An invalid rarely needs to do
more than cross the carpet from chair
to lounge, and slippers of this sort into
which the toe may be Slipped ara air that
is needed. Cover a pair of the felt-lined
slipper soles that come for knitted worst
ed room slippers with plain satin in some
delicate shade, sewing the satin firmly to
the edge of tn sole with tiny, even
stitches. The toe portion is made of
printed dresden ribbon, and a little ex-
perimentation with. an old piece Of mus
lin will yield a satisfactory pattern for
this toe portion. The lowered silk is
lined with plain silk matching the so'es
and a thin layer of cotton is laid be-
tween, the edges being buttonholed to-
gether with silk floss. At the edge the
silk is turned back to show the lining
a very ornamental feature of the slipper
Warm little bed jackets of French fam
mel or Of cashmere are appreciated by
the invalid who breakfasts in bed. Such
jackets are made without sleeves, the
being folded and cut in the
peasant style familiar in blouses of the
past two seasons and instead of being
sewed up under the arms the material Is
Evening star., 1911-08-20
Caring, for Bedroom.

TT is rule about most homes that there
are special pieces I'm special rooms
that call for special care The bedroom
Is probably the room that requires the
greater amount of care, especially in
summer. The bedstead should be thor
oughly cleaned every week-top, bot
tom. back and front must be gone over
with a damp cloth or sponge, the latter
moistened with benzine. The entire bed
should then be gone over and cleahsed.
Closets can be cleaned Systematically
and the shelves, floors and spaces should
all be washed. Discarded articles should
all be removed at once.
Evening star., 1911-08-20
About the Home.

TO take the musty flavor from tea
! pots. put a lump Of sugar into the
pot before placing it away.
Marks of matches on white paint will
be found removable IL the parts are
rubbed with half lemon and then
washed with whiting, after which they
should be rubbed well and dried thor
oughly Other marks on woodwork can
he removed in the same manner.
Evening star., 1911-08-20
Elizabethan Rufs.

THE latest arrival in the neckwear
departments is a queer-looking ar
rangement which is cross between a
fichu and chenlisette. This Elizabethan
hchu, as it is called by the salesperson.
is made of white silk and comes out over
the shoulder like broad sailor collar,
and has ends that reach nearly to the
waist line in front. The neck is cut out
in a Y, and in this V is a standing frill
of pleated net There are wide cuffs of
the silk and a girdle belt with a pleated
frill attached at its lower edge.
Evening star., 1911-08-20
Handy Mayonnaise Mixer.

Some women have the knack OF MAX
ing mayonnaise, and others try vainly
to achieve this art. The danger of cur
ding, thinning and other accidents which
spoil the thick creaminess of a mayon-
naise as it should be are reduced to
minimum with new mixer, which should
be in every autumn brides pantry equip
ment. To the beater which mixes up
the mayonnaise ingredients is attached
a funnel l-shaped cuff into which the req
usite amount of olive oil is poured the
Evening star., 1911-08-20
NOTES AND NOVEL TIES.

funnel dropping the oil as 1t is needed
into the mixture I'm the bowl. With the
special beater comes metal device with
four small receptacles, which hold just
the right amount of salt, mustard, sugar
and vinegar
Evening star., 1911-08-20

coat is an inexpressfble comfort on bleak.
stormy days. even IL one never expects
to wear 1t in a motor car or on the deck
OF an ocean liner. and there are so many
evening occasions when 1t would not be
necessary to call taxi or carriage II
one were the possessor Of a long, warm
coat sufficiently smart for an evening
appearance over light frock- Women
living in the suburbs value such utility
Evening star., 1911-08-20

Y whatever name
she may call 1t
tourist, steamer,
motor or simply
plain utility coat
every woman needs
in her wardrobe
one all-covering'
practical yet good
looking coat which
may be slipped on
over frocks of a
material too light
Evening star., 1911-08-20

combination of plain navy blue and harline serge
pictured the drawing above The short has wide
square sailor collar of the plain blue bordered by bias band
stripe The of the striped material with pocket
flaps the plain bodered with the stripe There is shield of
the plain navy blue silk The skirt has divided
tunic of the striped blue the undersk being plain Ornaments
of yellow cord trim pocket flaps cuffs and tunic.
Evening star., 1911-08-20

really good-looking utility coat may
not be picked up for a song. Such coats
when made in smart style and of hand
some material usually cost a substantial
price-unless one is fortunate enough to
run across a special bargain at midseason
time. But it pays to invest in q really
good coat of this sort, for usually it may
be worn through several successive sea-
sons, and after that will serve for a hack
coat for use on rainy days in the motor
car or boat, or to tuck into the trunk at
vacation time for rough wear in the coun-
try
The double-faced or reversible cloth
coats are just now the craze, and several
Evening star., 1911-08-20
TWO Tone
Effects are C1ever1y
Accomplished w ith
Coat ndtePidIS

coats Of this type are illustrated Many
and clever are the ways in which the
makers of these big top coats use the
contrasting material to give striking and
attractive effects. Huge revers and col
lars in shawl, sailor and cape style, enor-
nous patch pockets, wide cuffs and but
tons as large small sauce plates make
some of these coats very dashing and
youthful in effect, and though some mod
els run up close to the three-figure mark
1t is wonderful what attractive and salts
factory ones are to be had between SIS
and $25.
All of these coats are cut to give the
straight, slender silhouette which fashion
insists upon. whether one be stout or
thin. tall or short, and the better models
In these utility coats are cleyerly de-
signed to emphasize slenderness and
make even the stout woman look more
slight. This is done by tapering the
lines Of the garment from shoulder to
hem, the shoulders being cut on generous.
roomy lines. with large armholes and
sleeves of good size, while the lower por-
ton of the coat is as narrow as is COM
patible with comfortable walking.
Evening star., 1911-08-20

days at the best, and little at
tentions and remembrances at
~ this time are quite as much ap-
preciated by the invalid as anx-
ious inquiries during the period of severe
illness. There are many little gifts which
may be taken to convalescent as
variation on the eternal monotony OF
flowers, jellies and broths, and one Of the
most acceptable of these gifts is a lap
blanket or rug as the English call
such protection.
The convalescent is usually well sup
piled with pretty negliges which loving
relatives have made ready for the first
happy days of sitting up." but rarely
is there any dainty lap covering to match
the dainty dressing gown. and over the
invalids knees must be spread an or
binary blanket or comfort from the bed,
which, besides being heavy and cumber-
some. does not match the color scheme
of the neglige. Invalids are very SEN
sitive to colors, and it is twice as easy to
get we'll rapidly if one possesses the
happy consciousness that, instead of
being a pitiful wreck, dressed up any old
way to receive compassionate visitors.
one makes a charming and interesting
picture of invalidism. Usually the in
valid herself is too weak to make any
effort toward beautifying herself, but she
appreciates such attempts on the part of
those about her.
Dainty lap covers with slippers Ito
match come all ready packed in a port
able bag, as shown in the picture, and
sometimes the lap covers and slippers
come in sets with comfortable and at
tractive dressing gowns-all In some deli
cate color scheme like palest pink ,r law
ender. Pale blue is seldom becoming to
a convalescent. 1t emphasizes the fa,lor
and sharp contours and brings out shad-
ows and hollows under the eyes aid in
Evening star., 1911-08-20

Any tailor will admit that the most
difficult thing to achieve in the tailor's
art is this tapering effect from shoulder
to hip-particularly on a plump figure
and it is for this reason that readymade
coats are usually SO clumsy and ungain
ly on stout women, the material falling
straight from bust to hem in front
Evening star., 1911-08-20
Double Faced Goats the Craze at Present White
Blanket Topcoat for Country Wear Smart
RaincoatS nManniSh StyleNoW the Mode,
The Hood New Trimming Feature.

coats particularly, but even in town the
big, comfortable coat which is more in
formal and more comfortable than the
trim tailored suit is of untold value. and
few women once possessing such gar
ment will ever be without similar model
again.
Evening star., 1911-08-20

days are tedious
days at the best, and little at
tentions and remembrances at
this time are quite as much ap-
nreciated by the invalid as anX-
Evening star., 1911-08-20

are placed at the back Of the waist line.
The sleeves OF this coat are set into the
garment in raglan manner. and not
few Of the topcoats for fall show this
style Of sleeve. though there seems q
tendency to get away from eccentric
sleeves Of both raglan and peasant"
type and to adopt the ordinary sleeve
set into the armhole. All coat sleeves
of this type. however, are kept very fiat
at the top and are entirely without gath
ers, the line of the shoulder and arm be-
ing emphasized as in sleeves Of the rag
Ian and peasant sort.
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16
What Lights Do

THESE ar. .ulv few Of the thousands OF secrets and
l o-5N.- -ou,ions Of stage dress and stage lights.
yea n. If the stage knew these secrets, they could
nj profit hy them. both by avoiding mistakes in
the way o.. imitation and by adapting to their own indi-
v.u USES the results OF study applied TO the clothes
AMI Egh, r..lem by women OF the stage.
a.-.-.- for example, as Miss Henrietta Cros-
nan Nj. KITTY Gordon, and Mrs. Leslie Carter
Ear5, with reddish hair-alwayS cauSe the footlightS
ami other -c lights 70 be Of an amber shade This
I.,- h.;-.-.-- their beauty
S,s brunette actresses as Miss Maxine Elliott, NJ IS
Ian. Cow. .r Miss Julie opp mixture Of rose and
H,.eEs.- Actresses past their prime, such as Relane
AMI Bern r. always have all lights on the stage OF
ST. rose ..,.-. which i, further deadened by having
gaze w..t around the bulbs. \ blue light green
Lgl. wlaI ,1 no circumstances be tolerated. \ blue
Eyh- b-o5- llt the lines in woman's face and where
rla.e is ..t gives the rouge a purple shade. y green
Eg.- throws shadows into the complexion and reveals
line .'... ..-,,alv may not be there
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16

woman always affects drab colorS. She uses royal
purple black wine color dull blue to bring out the
buc-bac of her hair and to throwtno relief the white
ness of her skin Anv other cOorS she well apprcci
acS would only emphasize the WhitcneSS into SillOW-
ness Mrs. Campbell never wears gray turS, realizing
that such color would accenuate the natural paOr OF
her compexon Miss Mary Garden, the other hand,
having bronze colorcd hair gray or brown urS
but never ScalSkin. The latter would give her com
pexon pastv look and the effect of both ScaSkn and
hair would be spoiled. This applies to any woman with
tawny hair.
The injurious effect Of the Of jarring color in an
otherwise proper setting cannot be illustrated better
than in the first act of "Thc Concert where the beauty
OF the scene i, entirely spoiled by the introduction OF
red dress. One senses something wrong the moment
this dress comes the stage, and although many per-
sons NAV not realize lust what or where the 'arrng note
really is the fact remains that the red works the havoc
Even the beauty of the furniture in the room Is mared
by the erroneous choice OF toilet on the part OF TINS one
actress. 8.
In the last act of "The Slim Princess there is dis
closed beautiful blue and white set, the effect OF winch
ruined bv the use of variations OF terracota IN the
chorus costumes This makes the scene look flat and
robS il Of all its daintiness Only white and silver or
white and gold should have been used The final intro
duction of a single white and silver dress renders tlS
fact doublv apparent at once to the Onlooker Nhte
and silver dresses introduced into green scene made
one Of the scenes in the London production OF Ihe
Dollar Princess" the most beautiful the stage has ever
revealed whereas the OF yellow IN the dresses would
have utterly spoiled the whole effect With yellow, the
colors would have looked "hard and there would have
been no contrast. With pink it would have looked
trashy cheap Apply these same standards to room
paper, in the same color and to gowns OF the same
hues and the same thing holds true on the compara
lively smaller scale.
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16

gowns makes herself appear slender. Bernhardt SINH
arv induces an appearance OF slcndcneSs Miss Surat
takes model gown and literally adapts 1t to her own
figure much as she would adapt song or a part to
her pcrsonaitv Mrs Campbell hides her stouneSS by
drarng herself with clothc, instead OF fitting herself
into them. This makes her appear tall. She never
wears a short skirt Of any kind even in the street
Such actresses as Mis- Julia Dean, Miss Maxine FL
lott and Miss Ethel Barrymore look much better IN
the street than on the stage Odd, but true, why:
Because the minute any OF these actresses hcghcn any
OF their effects such as those OF complexion or Inquire,
they take away what makes them beautiful IN an extra
ordinary way Miss Elliott looks best IN tailor made
gowns; vet her stage parts give her no opportunity to
appear in such attire. The youth OF Ethel Barrymore IS
lost back of the footlights. Her roles compel her to
wear dresses trimmed with lace, which brings out the
worst lines Of her figure Miss BARRYMORE Is the type OF
woman who looks worst when in "fussy dress effects
In plavs ike cousin Kate where she was able to dress
siulplv She looked vastly more beautiful.
This hold, true Of any woman OF the flgre ana gen
eral appearance Of this actress. Miss Julia MarlCWc
looks best in classic robes Modern dress shows up her
bad points II was the same with Emma EaneS, VINO
was always dressed by her artist husband Julian story
who selected and designed her gowns with an eye to the
best points Of her figure Thus, in "ToSca, "Komc2
and iulic" and as the Wagneran herones she looked
beautiful Modern dress however. caused her TO oQK
otherwise This is the secret why Emma taneS would
re.er aDpear at Sunday night concerts. Without the
Story drapcrc and in modern dress her long arms ana
long waist would have been sacntly apparent
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16
Color Problem of Clothes

RUT Important a., lights are in the general beauty
,.t.u. the problem Of clothes is the main one.
The S,er -an theory Of the influence Of colors on
~,,- r uc applied after fashion in the way have
i-a..t 10 .,t problem Of looks. The psychology Of
c- Is certain science in the case Of clothes, where be-
c3m;rsa and resultant harmony and beauty are the
e0i> sought.
Iot. .-e.c q small, dainty woman-such, for eX-
ample . Mis-, Mabel Taliaferro-should never wear
purple - .-5uns She should always affect such pastel
st4ie- - '. blue lavender a combination Of black
AMI . T1c darker colors will age her, and will ROB
h-r o. beg -aaty. Mrs Patric; Campbell, tall, dark
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16

FEW evenings ago, when visiting with some mar
A ,icd New York friends in their apartment saw
n through an open door toward the right Of the
room in V seated the %ons SdsT 5n aapsaGr S5f Of SRc 5Re
fanny tond about twenty five years DID, and was
was" in Grav. Round her throat She wore turquoise
goWnoI 10 be only light in the room was from lamp
h heavy white and rose colored shade The other
5c @ p with Large amber s9adc ,Fo M was @ mot c SnSd Gdr
N. NC y9t She believed was the most bcauty-heghicn-
face cc al E She sat down in the chair next to it, picked up
Ing o3 in this fixed position waited until her caller
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16
BY MELVILLE ELLIS

are never higher than the length of her face Further
more She never has her hats trimmed all the way round,
trimming them only in the front or in the back,
one side and she is careful to keep the correct view
toward the audience rs much of the time she
Miss Tempest is always careful to keep the line from
her shoulder to the tips Of her fingers gagged by the line
Of the bodice. If she dGcolete gown, the open
ing is always made to correspond to the length Of the
sleeve ANY woman who ncgccts this point will present
a gown with Jagged appearance. Miss Tempest gains
the effect Of height by the secret Of having her gowns
cut long all tie way round Ii they were cut long only
part Of the way instead Of all the way round she would
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16
Importance of Lines

A SMALL actress must never wear clothes with long
n lines and never a long train. This would throw
her out OF proportion would dwarf her There should
women ever wear high trimmed hats The latter as
most stage women realize will make the line from the
TOP of the hat to the shoulder long the line from the
shoulder to the waist line. And this will make the rest
Of the body carry twice as much as 1t ought 10 III inc way
OF lines.
Miss Marie Tempest, the best gowncd woman on the
English speaking stage is always careful that her hats
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16
Effect of Overdressing
MISS GERALDINE FARRAR is

MISS GERALDINE FARRAR Is mucn better
lVl looking woman than her audiences would guess
and she herself is blame for their impression. one
ovcrdresscs and spois the natural eect OF nGr !ou
rL; ! ~ once annarent in "Trayiata, where the mania
for lace CRYSTALS ETC. has got the better of Miss Farrar
and has succeeded in spelling her intrinsicay Deaulu
freshness and charm. Many woman on ana OH ,lle
stage-rIins the effect Of her beauty Dy oyei'icISE
b Using lace and spangcs where strict simplicity should
be adhered to- And in Miss Farrar they may see con-
crete example Of the harmful effect Of this sort OF thing
In "Bohtne" and Butterfly, where she wears com
parativey plain clothes, she Is entirely atTace; 81
Zoo i she in the case of the court costume in Nanon
but one would never suspect her entire charm when She
dresses herself in "rrayata.
Hall Of Madam Nazimova's versatility lies in her
Confined .l9s II
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16

.--- n ---- - 1ll been tNc case bclorc and thcn
...; t..- CD take off the turquoise necklace and hand
en- f.-, ..r All this took less than minute.
Tn. .r ..~ turned to me. Its wonderful" she eX
.,.,..t -tlv daughter does look very much more
f.a.,r. s. How did YOU accomplish it in such
simple ~
I.z,. .,..t what had learned in the course Of many
,-,6t i.4, experience with stage gowns and lights,
that a '.... woman always looked best in an amber
r,,. 4. u.-. . -o-e and white mixture Of lights would
,..e- sui. ..-, woman; that side light was always
-e Ell. ... o0 any woman than light thrown full IN
.r. face: - chat the effect Of a gray gown would be
-,aat hv aoi,c, or any other colored stones, save
.r,v em.r or ~appMrcs.
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16

look entirely out OF proportion
and could never obtain the de-
sired effect.
\ woman with a short neck
should never wear thick furs;
but instead should wear a stole
over her shoulders. Madam
Scmbrich gains her best effect
by wearing her furs about her
shoulders. She never appears
in public with furs about her
throat.
New-York tribune., 1911-04-16
Dress individuality

SONE oi the iurtllcr prop
~ lens and secrets of stage
dress may be explained through
the cases Of Miss Mary Garden,
Miss Valcska Surratt, and
Mrs. Patrick Campbell. These
actresses are 50 called "freak'
drcSScrs; but vastly effective
ones none the less. They take
from the fashions what suits
them best and work out Of the
combination a gown OF the
moment. They never take
gowns as they find them. They
know their own good points,
and dress up to those good
points. Miss Garden, who,
like most singers, is thick
through the diaphragm, lowers
her waist line into a point
and. by the use Of belts on her