New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-06-11
IS IT. EC0N0M Y?
Not Alzcays Wise to Hare
ones GOzcns Made at Home.

There seems TO be no subject pertaining
+ 10 clothes over which women so much
differ as the question OF having dressmak-
/ ing done at home by visiting seam
stress. Some women protest that il is the
only way that woman of moderate means
can have any variety at all 10 her ward
robe. and others are equally emphatic in
claiming that the home dressmaker is no
/ longer moderate in her price that she up
| sets the household and that the trouble
/ that she causes and the waiting on that
/ she demands more than offset the ad-
/ vantage of not being obliged 70 leave the
| house TO be fitted.
The fact that most city families live in
! apartments in which no room can be given
/ up to sewing for any long period must be
| considered in this connection on the
J other hand prices for making gowns are
steadily growing higher The question
seems 10 resolve itself to this: Does a
woman prefer a few gowns made without
much trouble to herself. or does she prefer
or must she have many costumes. and is
she willing 10 take some Of the work Of
getting them on her own shoulders?
There are few women not trained in the
business who are able TO turn out an en-
tire gown that can stand comparison with
d professionally made garment. but most
women can do well some Of the sewing
on a gown. Some women can manage
pattern and cut out. although they cannot
put together and fit. Almost any woman
can run a sewing machine. and many
women can do fine sewing and embroidery,
an item that brings up 10 an exaggerated
degree the cost OF a gown when bought
in shop or ordered from a good dress
maker.
1t is certainly not economy to hire
dressmaker at s5 or "a a day and leave
everything to her. even the pulling out OF
hastings and the care of the sewing ma
chine Some women who do not wish 10
be tied TO the sewing room during these
visits hire an inexperienced girl 70 assist
at this sort Of work. but as a rule some
member Of the household helps at such a
period. and sometimes the whole house
hold. including a visiting friend and ac
commodating neighbor. turns a dress
making week or fortnight into sewing
bee visiting dressmaker Of twenty
years experience offers some pertinent re-
marks as TO the value OF family help.
IF you are a high priced woman. as I
am now. you certainly expect some sort OF
assistance from the family in order 70 get
the work done in the time allotted 10 IT,"
she says. The trouble is that so few
women know just what they can best do.
The woman who can most successfully
have her gowns made at home is the one
who can plan them pretty much by herself
and who has all that planning done before
the dressmaker arrives
ITO tell the truth we women who work
out by the day do not have much oppor-
tunity for seeing stylish clothes. We see
the fashion books and buy new patterns
every season. but. as we are working all
day long, we have few chances Of seeing
smart clothes or Of visiting the shops
where goods are sold. When We reach a
house where the gowns have been prac-
tcaly planned beforehand and all the ma
terials and trimmings bought, we know ex-
actly what We have to do and the time re-
CURED for making up the clothes.
Recently I was asked 10 reserve three
Gays to make over two gowns for an old
/ customer who had gone into mourning
/ When l got there the material for one
/ gown had not been returned from the dyer
| and she had forgotten 10 buy the lining for
/ the second and was forced TO rush down
| town 20 do so. II. isn't my place TO remind
women Of the time wasted by careless
! ness Of this sort II isn't good business
! So I always say that there is something
| else ! can do while waiting but really half
/ d days work was lost because my ma
| terials had not been prepared for me be-
/ forehand.
! ~af ~
| should remember. and that is not 10 start
too many gowns at once. This is gener-
! ally done on the plea tina, the family is
| going TO do most of the plain sewing but
! II generally results in a mix-up all around
| one piece gets lost another isn't ready
/ when I want 1t, or the person who should
I be there 10 try on IS downtown matching
| n piece OF trimming one helper in the
sewing room Is really all I can take care
or but that does not mean that the whole
family cannot take turns for there are
few unframed workers that are much good
after o few hours"
This seamstress suggests as a wise prep
/ aration for seasons sewing. first thar all
tools shall be in perfect order This means
! that the sewing machine shall be cleaned
| and put in perfect order There should he
an adequate supply Of needles Of all sizes,
with thread 10 NJ. and all the attachments
/ should be ready and understood by the
! mistress OF the house II she expects to
assist at the machine work. Scissors
/ should be sharpened basting cotton ana
! silk and thread 10 match every material
and trimming used should be AT hand.
| Blue braid can be put on with white
! thread, but a lot OF time is lost in The
| operation. and II should be remembered
that work Is more expensive than ma
terials. An electric iron pays for ITSELF
over and over again. and an ironing board
and sleeve board covered with clean cloth
make the sewing room wisely independent
of the kitchen.
Home dressmakers can arrange hours for
fittings well as can the shop or average
dressmaker. II the work il properly
MANNED the mistress of the house need not
give up her whole time To- the sewing
room II she plans 90 be there AT certain
times the intelligent seamstress would well
come the arrangement and provide for H.
II is wise 10 plan the genera lines OF the
gowns beforehand. and II possible provide