davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
There IS Temperament ~ the Very Flow
Of Leslie CdrterS DrdpePleS

upper bodice above the tunic being OF
chiffon over valenciennes lace. The en-
broidery done on net is as soft, clinging
and supple is texture as the gown ma
terial and the whole costume seems to
follow the wearer's lovely figure in soft
and subtly defining curves. The oriental
necklace of coral and dull silver is a
striking detail of this costume.
Miss Jane Cowl, I'm THE Gamblers,
wears a most beautiful chiffon gown in
the first act. This is a dinner costume
of canary yellow, the bottom of the skirt
bling bordered with black marten fur.
With Miss Cowrs dark hair and vivid
coloring this gown Is most effective. In
the same act Miss Edith Barker wears a
very chic little dinner gown of reseda
green satin yelled with chocolate chiffon.
= ::
Though individual personalities count
for nothing in the cast of the Blue
Bird" the costumes are certainly wonder
full, and tremendous must have been the
bill for chiffons. Yards and yards of
this filmy expensive stuff float about
in wonderful color effects. The gown of
Might" all in shades of the ineffable
greenish- blue against which the young
moon comes out on an autumn evening.
is an achievement in dress. So are the
floating elusive draperies of the twelve
hours. the almost liquid folds of fabric
| that flows from Waters slim shoulders,
and the lovely, indescribable blue draper.
les of the Little Unborn Children
through which their yellow curls and
| round pink limbs CLEAN exquisitely.
The grand opera star wears her telling
costumes in concert work, and not In
operate productions. The music-the
voice Is the particular interest at the
opera-never the costumes. One scarcely
remembers, after hearing "Butterfiy.
what Clio Clio Sans kimonos were like.
OF course, Aida wore something splen-
did and barbaric. but just what was 1t?
Traviata may expire in every SO wonder
| full a Paris neglige, bnt no one pays
much attention to 1t, listening to her
| song Even of Calves costumes in Car
men, one seems to carry away but dim
recollections beyond that of fringe on hel
| shawl.
/, But in her concert costumes. built by
Partisan couturiers, the opera star is very
splendid Miss Geraldine Farrar has a
most lovely gown. designed by Paquin, in
| which she has sung at several private
entertainments this winter. This gown
| is of paillete embroidered pink chiffon
over which Is draped scarf1ike drapers
| of pink satin meteor. The bodice of pink
chiffon over lace reveals the contour of
the shoulders and arms and around one
arm, edging the diminutive lace sleeve, is
| band Of dark fur-the only fur that ap-
pears on the entire costume.
Miss Bessie ABBOTT, the charming youns
American prima donna. whose voice is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

WIDE brasds arc sen On many q the
white serge and mohaif tailored ana
dressy suits
Kid Stoves on the giace order and
usually white are worn with any even
ing costume
White. pink. light yellow ana Amer
ican beauty shades are used for dano-
Ing gowns
Polished wood buttons Of cloth and
sfIk colors are in great favor for polo
and storm coats.
Paris has q new fancy for shading
as her gowns.
irish lace bands-cary1ng out the Irish
lace vest or collar so much Worn-adorn
many sleeves.
| Big white flowers. peoples. edelwefss
etc. IA velvet or in kid appear upon
some Of the latest large hats.
A great many velvet bags have come
| IN and satin ones outnumber those which
| appeared last spring.
Handsome beaded bags show no signs
NJ waning in popularity, but the ones
done with tiny beads are the thing.
Evening wraps are as gorgeous as
velvet. cloth. tapestry. brocade and
beaded decorations.
Tea gowns often have hanging sleeves,
| and the peasant sleeve cut In one with
the bodice is by no means as yet dis
carded.
Chains are no longer IN evidence for
| the black velvet bags; all have long silk
cords by which to swing them from the
| arm.
Fine threads, fine dots, fine meshes and
| a General delicacy of structure and de-
sign are predominating features OF the
| new wells.
| Huge sailor or round collars of fur
| or fancy fabrics mark the 1S1O-18l1 even
| ing coat. and bands OF Iur are 81 the
| foot Of many.
Marabou feathers are much used. and.
| as the latest novelty, cooks feathers
dyed to match the primary colors OF the
gown have arrived
| New slippers from Paris are Of satin,
richly embroidered with gold and silver
bullion-golo upon white satin and silver
upon black satin.
| Women have gone In extensively FOR
gowns Of velvet and velveteen. Many Of
| these are trimmed with fur and have fur
hats to match.
The lace frills seen under large hats
may be a part Ut the hat or an entire
| theater cap tc remain on the head when
| the hat IL removed.
A cluster Of roses at one side is a girlish
finish for a bandeau for the hair, made
! simply of soft tapestry brocada
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

Of thin pink silk, and the lace overdress
la caught in Just beneath the bust and
arms with a broad pink silk sash, at the
top of which is sewed wreath OF tiny
pink roses. Could any one imagine
frock more sweetly simple and charming?
Still another gown worn by Miss Burke
in Mrs. Dot is of Lerre lace over white
satin, a court train Of the lace falling
from the shoulders to the moor. WIN
this gown is worn hat of natter blue
brocade and pink roses, with long stream
ers of black velvet coming from under
the wide brirn-
Tempestuous- is the word to apply to
Leslie Carriers costumes. Never for one
moment do you forget the woman In
considering the gown, but somehow her
very draperies seem to be instinct with
the fire and intensity Of supreme temper
ament The costume designed for a great
emotional scene is not always elaborate
Sometimes it is nunlike in its simplicity
or somberness, but even If 1t be but
the most ordinary skirt and blouse Of
dark serge somehow or other 1t will be
on the actress who wears ft-anything
but ordinary. There will be a trick of
| collar-a certain cut of shoulder bit
| of a white cuff against the dark fabric
| that will make a picture of this very
primary serge skirt and blouse and give
| binary, workaday clothes never have.
| Look at the costumes Mrs. Fiske wore
| in Salvation Nell:' at the prim, bust
| ness-like frocks of Blanche Bates in THE
| Fighting Hope yet these gowns, worn
| by these women in these thrilling scenes,
were distinct with personality and ex-
| pressed better than any frillS or fuTbe-
| lows could have done the intense feeling
of the emotional parts they costumed.
/
Two actresses there are who are al
ways-in whatever role they are cast
| deliciously feminine and appealing. These
are Miss Elsie Ferguson and Miss Fran
ces Starr Photographs Of both these &C.
tresses in new costumes worn in plays of
this season, are reproduced on today S
page. Miss Ferguson is always sweet,
| ALWAYS expressive of gentleness, tender
ness and sympathetic womanhood. Her
costumes emphasize this appeal. Over
| the beautiful dress Of chiffon and chan
I tilly lace is thrown one of Miss Fer
guson's superb evening wraps-a model
of velvet richly embroidered with gold
| thread The small hat with its burden
of heavy plumes is worn off the face to
| show the actress lovely hair. which Is
| one of her most striking beauty points
| The gown worn by Miss Frances starr
| is especially lovely and is replete with
| feminine appeal and charm. 1t Is OF
chiffon over very thin. clinging satin, the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
Fashionable veiIings.

Black and white are chiefly in favor. :.
Filet and square mesh veilings are the
rage in Paris
Cobweb meshes in delicate leaf patterns
chiefly black. are also q la mode.
For hat wells black chiffon lined with
Persian mousseline with tasseled ends, Il
the thing.
The latest mesh is light hexagon. with
heavy diagonal lines embroidered over it.
thus forming q diamond pattern.
Head scarfs are of black or white light
weight satin or Persian chiffon. Some OF
these show the exquisite real cashmere
designs and colors.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
Fashion I Hints for Women.

Wells Of solid cofors-biue and brown,
lavender and even black-have brilliant
borders In three to five shades
Shoulder scarfs seem universal for day
and evening wear. Much wider than
heretofore, they serve in the cold winter
weather to give warmth
For evening frocks select satir chiffon.
beaded net. lace. velvet. Trim with bead
landings, lace, hand embridery, fur, rib
bon, bead fringes, etc.
straight waist seams and its extra broad
peasant waist, is the foundation stone
for almost all indoor gowns
The raglan sleeve predominates in the
evening coat, the kimono sleeve Is next
in favor and after that the orthodox coat
sleeve Of generous size
In the more elegant varieties OF but
tons are many with jewel effects.
and studded. and host of carved de-
signs.
It is a color year as well as black
year, and royal blue, peacock green,
mauve, violet. myrtle green and old
leather brown are still fashionable tones.
In opera bags some very pretty ones
are Of furnished gold or silver cord.
crocheted in Irish lace style and made
up over colored silk to match the cos
tune.
For evening coats seal plush and other
fur fabrics are in great demand, and they
are also used as lining for coats Of chif-
fon. satin, lace. etc, according to infor-
nation from Paris.
Wide braids are used in perpendicular
t,ax, 10, Ic nd In, az ,Iors r,y,
skirts and In fancy sections here and
there on both coats and skirts and for
cuffs and collars on coats.
many directoire. some inspired by the
garb of the Garde Franchise, some
Byzantine and Russian colorings, and
there is touch OF oriental in most.
Many buttons. braid covered. covered
with bits of embroidery. fur. tapestry,
Persian fabrics, satin and silk. are used
in connection with braids. OF which
buckles and slides are also made.
The long coat is seen for general day or
travelling use in heavy tweeds and fancy
coatings, ratine. cheviot and similar
goods, either plain or fancy. General
style points to narrow effects, straight
Very pretty are the beaded mouselnes
done In stripes, steel blue on white
mousseline. for example. or white beads
on rose or blue mousseline: and as for
gold and silver beading on black. white
or colors. it is very smart In the evening
costume.
For the matron the narrow hair
ban is very approp ri Some
yer ribbon tied In . stiff necktis bow
at one side.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
Silver JeWeIry.

In the collection OF ornaments pos
sessed by the we'll dressed woman. Sill
yer tewelry has been raised to an i'm
portant position. Silver forms a goot
setting for all precious stones, and II
gives richness without the appearance OF
appalling expense. Filigree and ancient
Bohemian ornaments are now being much
worn. and many Of the semi-barbaric
Russian designs occupy places In the
jewel casket. Silver jewelry is beauti-
fully blended with rich velvets. and often
it takes but the touch Of silver orna-
ment to make an evening gown a ''crea-
ton"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
When Turning a Hem.

When turning hem or measuring
skirt to straighten 1t at the bottom,
dressmaker OF my acquaintance saves
herself time and nervous strain by mark
ing the place she wants on the tape
measure with a small paper clip-one OF
the kinds that "stay put" Then she does
not have to search out her desired mark
every time she puts a pin in the skirt
but feels automatically for the clip.
In turning a three-inch hem. for in
stance. she will put the clip at three, and
for all practical purposes have with her
a three-inch tape measure
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
Garments That Express Temperament Mime.
Bernhardt's Gorgeous Chinchilla Cloak Billie
Burke the DaintieSt Actress Personality
Evidenced by Fabric and Frills.

a thsater under the spen Of a~strong and
brilliant personality ON the stage think
ing: TN have a gown just like that. III
look like that. I'll act like that. I'll
be like that" But. alas. though . good
memory and q little trouble may indeed
duplicate for as the gown. It Will never
seem to have the same moaning. the same
INDISPENSABLE charm that made the real
gown a part OF tho woman who wore It
Every actress. II she II q great enough
actress sets q fashion at some time or
other in her career. There are actresses
who set many fashions. and they are not
always the actresses with the most VIVID
personalities, either. Some little detail OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
Notes and Novelties.
Dressmaking Made Easy.

THE white Woman's burden has been
i lifted another notch. In addition to
her washing machine, patent dishwasher.
fatiron always hot and ready at the end
of a cord connected with the chandelier,
and toaster which needs no watching, she
now has at her command a handy motor
which may be attached TO her sewing
machine SO that the spring dressmaking
almost does itself, so quickly and with
out effort is the work turned put These
new sewing machine motors may be
readily attached to any sewing machine
without the necessity or calling in
mechanic. Wiring and plug connecioil
are all ready to screw into The sochet or
the electric apparatus in one = own home.
All that is necessary is electricity in the
house.
Looking Down to See UP.
TT SOUNDS like a conundrnm. but it is
really what is done by hosts of peo-
/ pie at the big aviation meets. Craning
the neck to peer up into the blue at the
soaring flying machines is exhausting
work. 1t puts crick I'm the spine and
dazzles the eyes besides; SO some In
genious individual conceived the idea of
bringing with him to an aviation meet
small mirror which he held in his lap
as he sat In his motor car and watched.
! at ease, the maneuvers of the man-birds
aloft. Now aviation mirrors are sold In
all the places where motor supplies are
to be had. There is a rutber ring afdnnd
| the circular mirror. so mat even gif fhe
affair Is dropped in moments capelefs-
ness or forgetfulness there is little dan
ger of breakage-and the consequent
seven years of bad luck. &eks,f
| A Purse That Defies Pickpocket0.
THE woman who carries her purse In
her hand need not worry any more
about leaving 1t on a shop counter or
/ having it stolen from her in q street
car. There is a little attachment on
some of TIE new purses by means OF
which the purse may be chained securely
| to the glove A twelve-inch chain, slen-
der but strong, is attached to the bottom
of the pocketbook, and at the other end
| of this chain there is strong metal
clasp which snaps over the glove ma
| terial where the opening comes in the
palm of the hand. Or the purse may
be snapped to the belt or the inside OF
! the muff, or anywhere else one desires.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
Paints and Dyeing.

II your dress accessories do not quite
match your gown, or you wish that gown
itself q slightly different shade, try paint
ing with Oil colors and gasoline. The
effect is marvellous and the slight odor
soon goes of. Kid slippers can thus be
made to match exactly any costume.
A spot on linen can be painted with wa
ter colors to match the clean material. a.
the paint sinks into the linen without
changing its texture. It rubs OF, how
ever. and must be renewed every I'VE or
six months.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
Of the SnPt1ous Bernhard Wears

phce that folds softly across the bosom.
the v of the chiffon revealing a quaint
little vest of white lace. Below the Cir
die the chiffon overdress parts again
and shows the petticoat Of chiffon shirred
over lace. On her head, combining the
riotous curls that are part of this little
actress charm is the famous billie
Burke f1let," made of three squares of
Russian lace mounted on silver gauZe and
embroidered with small white beads and
turquoises.
Another pretty frock worn In Mrs.
Dot was designed for Miss Burke after
Callot model This little dress is a
copy OF one worn by the Empress Jo-
sephine In the days when her slender
loneliness first caught Napoleon's eye.
There is a lace overdress which hangs.
slim and straight. over a very narrow slip
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08
HeraIdic Tapestry.

The riot OF tapestries, brocades and fine
furniture coverings of all kinds IS still
seen in the world Of fashionable dress.
These fabrics are eminently suited for
evening wraps. muffs. scarfs. turbans and
even shoes, but they cannot be entirely
recommended for a whole gown, and
wherever they are used simplicity OF
treatment should be emphasized.
A good model for an evening coat OF
curtain brocade is made of two pieces
straight up and down, for this stuff does
not lend itself to drapery, with connect
ing links at the side in the shape OF cur
tain cords. To this coat is added a bur-
gomaster's vollar Of bearskin and Dor
behring's Of the fur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

different personalities in as many sea-
sons. II she Is a member Of stock COM
pany she may easily be the dozen differ
ent personalities in as many nights. This
versatility has. of course. direct infiu-
ence on her own personality. The great
actress has usually several sides to her
nature, while the ordinary woman has
but one. and that often not q particu
larry broad one The spectacle Of little
dumpy woman trying to live up to a La
Tosca costume copied from q superb at
fair worn by Nine. Eames is scarcely
more distressing than that Of q tall and
angular maiden in her thirttes dressing
like and endeavoring to initiate tho kit
tenish sauciness Of Billie Burke.
Between the tragedy garments Of Miss
Julia Mar1owe, who dearly loves a role
in which she may be emotional In sack
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

The charming suit above of smoke gray velvet is good
suggestion for more elaborate of the tailored frocs
which necessity the who makes any petense
of being smary gowned The closely fitting little hipengh
has diagonal closing whose outline well that of
the neck is followed by of gun metal buttons An
usual touch contributed by the sleeve OF lace with its
novel button trimmed cuff of velvet The skirt fol-
lows closely the design of the triangular portion of the
velvet being cut the hips and lace substituted Hat
OF smoke velvet lined with gold trimmed with shaded
willow pumes also in gold.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

especially high. flexible and brilliant.
dresses rather simply ami without any
affectation whatever.
Nine Fremstadt is another opera soar
who dresses rather simply off tho stage
This singer has n charming personality
a sympathetic face and a neat little inquire
rather inclining to embonpoint.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

cloth-like. shapeless garments and with
her hair let down, and the airy petticoats
of a Genee, who wrinkles through her
part in tulle sprinkled with lilies of the
valley. there are innumerable types of
costume Even the more or less conven-
tonal garb of modern dress is made to
take on new meanings when expressing
the different personalities Of the actresses
who play modern society roles. But there
are two general types of dress under
which the lesser classi1cations are ar
, ranged. These two types are the statu-
esuue and the winscme styles of costume.
Some women look better in one than In
the other. Some may wear only one type
with safety.
An actress whom the statuesaue type
of costume greatly becomes is Miss Ber-
tina Kalisch. One of the costumes she
wore last seasonal long, sinuous satin
gown loaded and incrusted with embroid-
cries and jewels was veritable Cleopa-
ira affair, and huge emeralds swinging
! from her ears and over her brow in the
| thick waves of her dark hair increased
| this effect of magnificence Mime. Emma
EameS is always StatueSque. even when
CARRIED as simple Marguerite. Bernhard
| is one of the few gifted actresses who
may be statuesque. petite, plquant, MI
gnonne or simple as it pleases her. Bern
| hardt is no longer thin. Though she will
| never be other than a slender woman,
| that excessive leanness-of which she was
clever enough to make a feature-has dis
| appeared, but Bernhardt as this latest
photograph shows still affects the vo-
| luminous costume effects. the wrist and
| throat swathings which suggest the ex-
IRENE Of pathetic thinness.
| Quite the antithesis OF Nine. Bern
| hardt's sumptuous and stately gowns are
| the dainty frocks Of little Miss Billie
| Burke. who divides honors with Miss
Elsie Janis as the debutante's idol. Miss
| Burke's costumes are copied and re-
copied: 50 are her postures, her vigorous
little mannerisms. the way she does her
hair and poises her head and opens her
big, babyish eyes.
Billie Burke's frocks are always ex-
quisitely feminine and exquisitely young.
She seems the incarnation of youth and
joy and the springtime Of happiness.
Her willful. petulant, enhancing little
ways are expressed by her charming
frock. and though her followers may not
hope to possess her saucy new retrousSe,
her dimples or the winsome way Of her,
they faithfully copy her curls and her
costumes
The photograph shows Miss Burke in
one of the dainty frocl<s she wears in
Mrs. Dot a chiffon affair draped over
white .lace and bordered at the feet with
skunk fur. The bodice is a simple sur
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

HE essential differ
ehce between the
actress and the or
binary woman. as
far as clothes are
concerned. Is that
the actress allows
her garments TO
express her per-
sonality, while the
ordinary woman
In most instances
tries to live up to
her clothes.
NM ANNA ont nj
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

very effective gown this which offers opportunity for
display of hand embroidery the sleeves and tucker The
from gray blue CLOTH The skirt and
closes left with three eweled buttons smaller
dotng the sleeve The tucker of white velvet heavily
brodered blue of the gown On the lower part of the
sleeve Just gathered into the blue velvet band
narrower of white velvet repeating the design of the
tucker.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

dress, like the collar, q necktie. q belt.
the way a hat is tipped or parasol Is
carried, IL essentially charming and be-
coming. will be seized upon and initiated
until, behold! it appears almost overnight
In the department stores ticketed The
Elsie Janis belt" the Marie Cahill doll"
the Peter Pan shirt waist" the Ethel
BARRYMORE earring" the MARY Manner
ing curl." and becomes q fashion.
One reason Of the charm and meaning
in the actrees'S clothes as contrasted with
those Of the ordinary woman 10 that the
actress is forever being a different won,-
an. She is-not merely pretends to oa
but Is. II she is q good actresS-a dozen
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

How many Of u have not come out o.