Evening star., 1911-08-23
ECCENTRICITIES OF
PARTISAN TOILETS

Partisan toilets are, for the mo-
ment, full Of eccentricities. despite the
fact that the lovely models of more
conventional order offer counter at
fractions. For instance. vivid color
ings and low necks are to be-s seen IN
Paris even in the morning. Neither
of these innovations can be regarded
as particlarly good taste for outdoor
occasions, yet such eccentricities must
be chronieled. even though tnes o1 or
hot afternoons the slightly decollete
"transparency" looks charming. accom-
panied by the beautiful feathered nat,
or for dinners at restaurants IN tn9
Rois. but for the COSTUME tailleur
fhe absence Of a collar is unsuitable
and lacks the good style usually cnar,
acteristic of the Parisienne. The chic
blue serge, linen and white coats ana
skirts are decidedly preferable
For casino, afternoon and evening
wear one Of ia modes" most attrac-
tive vagaries this season is to combine
velvet or satin with white or light
chiffon and muslin. Black Is the IA
yorite combination, with pale pink, olue
or white 1t may appear incongruous,
but this alliance is extraordinarn.y
effective and in good taste and IT Is
not to be wondered at that 1t is nnd1ng
a vogue.
This conceit may be carried out In a
becoming toilet Of yellow crepe de
chine. trimmed with beautiful vene-
tian lace, embroidered in gold and OK
idized Black soft satin is introduced
into the bodice and sleeves and also
forms an overskirt. which Is becoming
ly shaped in points at the Sloe.
An embroidered gown OF a pastel
shade Of rose tulle has a light design
of metallic embroidery, which is stud
ded with various colored jewels. The
haa ~, ,cy1y
round the figure in tunic fashion, over
an underdress OF shot chiffons. COM
prising all the shades OF the Jewels.
Apparently simple but costly in Its
magnihcence is clinging robe IN
softest rose e-colored charmeuse. with the
most lovely dull silver embroidery In
serted at one side. A shaped jeweled
ceinture is beautiful. and daring note
of novelty-in midsummer-is intro
duced by band of sable crossing from
the bodice to the embroidered panel
inserted into the skirt. There is a
craze for red in Paris, rather OF the
| coronation shade, or. perhaps, tone
deeper.
of red silk flowers forms ceinture
held together by a red velvet passion
flower, on a white satin coatee, en-
broidered in black jet and silver The
underdress is of white chiffon, en-
broidered in the same manner. With top
of bodice and picturesque undersleeves
Of silver net. Silver. oxidized, dull
gold and metal effects are all i'm
mensely popular just now. A "turban
coiffure'' may be made Of this metallic
tulle. edged with gray pearls and fn-
ished with black aigrette.
Another favorite combination OF fab
ric, though OF course, essentially for
day wear is that OF striped fabrics OF
plain tussore. Colored linen or orien-
tai stuffs again form vivid contrast
to our plain white surah, whereas our
double satins or fancy gauzes oiten
show a waistband OF black velvet
Patent leather belts are also a feature
on silken costumes. These strike the
vivid note of contrast which Is so
characteristic Of this season; whether
they always are a success or not Is an
other matter. Fortunately much de-
pends on the dexterity OF the coutu
riere and the individual chic" OF the
wearer for whom the costume Is de-
signed.
Instead of striped frocks at this sea-
son plaided ones now enter the arena
Of fashion and make remarkably at
tractive alternative. That favorite col
or, rowan red, checkered with black.
is seen in foulard, and the white mousse
lines family figured with purple and
blue cerise or dun brown are fresh and
pretty.
There is a most fascinating method
noticeable now Of gauging the hem
of a skirt and producing squares Dy SO
doing, and for the purpose fine cord
is used, covered with the material en-
ployed At the extreme edge OF the
gauging a little frill falls unless ball
fringe or a bordering Of crystal lattice
work be preferred
Now is the right moment in the cal
endar for patronizing the most frag-
lie of fabrics, though to her muslins
and dimities, chiffons and ninons. the
wise woman will add linens and taffe
tas to meet the many demands of a
month apt to be tickle. now all smiles
and sunny warmth, now all tears,
chilliness and gloom.