Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-04-24

This season frock may have the abso-
lutte simplicity of the empire waist and
scant skirt of the Napoleonic era, or 1t
may be ruffled. with f1ounce and fichu;
but discrimination in selection of the ma
.erials there must be. Lines of simple
elegance require like materials. Draped
models with flowing lines need the airy
diaphanous chiffon tissue
Fabrics are shown this season in riot
Gus profusion. There is bewildertnS
array of satin, chiffon. marquisette tissue,
voles and silk and cloth suitings in novel
and smart effects and additions to the
list are being made continually.
The oId-time surah can scarcely be
called a novelty. 1t has been known for
at least a half century and perhaps
longer, but it has not appeared before in
all the colorings it now assumes. Coro-
nation purple, the regal successor to
kings blue and empire green, is one OF
the newest shades. A famous Parlslan
designer has created sensation by using
taEeta for evening gowns. The taneta
IS not the sort to which we have long
been accustomed, but is a charming and
unobtrusive material. pliable and simple,
and of tie clinging quality so necessary
IN designing modish gowns.
Allied by kinshin to the house OF
foulard is the new fleur de sole. 1t diff
fers from a foulard. being, like all the
seasons fabrics. more yielding ana fac1le.
IL comes in many odd and lovely tints: 1t
is both expensive and exclusive, and likely
to he appreciated by women VINO seek
distinctive costumes
Black satin Is the favorite for after
noon or dressy street frocks. the WOOL
back variety being selected because OF It's
superior wearing qualities.
a charming afternoon frock is made OF
slack satin trimmed with bands OF printed
cashmere de sole on the bodice and skirt.
Another frock OF black satin is tailored
street model trimmed with black and
white striped silk. The coat is double
breasted, fastened with black satin but
tons. There is a tie at the front where
the revers of the wide sailor collar OF
the striped silk end.
The sleeves are finished at the wrist
with a dep band of striped silk. and
striped silk trims the bottom of the skirt
at the front and back. A narrow band
Of stripped silk finishes the bottom OF the
| jacket at the sides.
! using striped taffeta for street suits and
costumes The stripes are narrow. OF
equal width and they are white striped
with black, with dark blue. with brown,
| with green or with amethyst.
| One frock is made of black and white
striped tatYeta in empire style. The short
blouse jacket is made with fichu collar
edged with tworows OF narrow plating
of the silk. The kimono sleeve and bot
tom of the jacket are trimmed with a
row Of the narrow plating of the ma
| tei ial.
| Three wide rutfles of the material. the
top ruifle being placed above the kimono,
are set at intervals around the lower part
of the skirt.
The ruffies are trimmed at the lower
edge with narrow plating of the silk.
| The heading of the ruffles is finished by
narrow black velvet ribbon drawn
| through buttonholes and tied in small
loops at the left side. The waistline Is
| finished by narrow velvet ribbon.
| A stylish one-piece frock shown In a
Washington shop was of black and white
striped taffeta. Two side folds of white
| taffeta bordered the skirt. At the sides
the folds which were trimmed with black
| small buttons and hooks were left open
There were q sailor collar and cuffs OF
the white taneta.
One-piece frocks OF striped silk having
short over jackets Of plain silk are nu-
nerous The jackets are usually fash
toned in empire style with wide cape col
lars and deep turn-back cuffs.
AS might be expected. black and white
effects are legion. and the SILK weaves
run the gamut of striped dots or fine
checks. One design with scale dots ha:
La silvery sheen. and the general appear
ance of fish scales. Large dotted de
signs are rather smart and are used fol
| whole costumes or in the combination o.
materials which Is so much In vogue.
The dotted effects arc more often seer
in foulards and are usually combined
with plain one-tone material, such a.
surali taffeta.
Many of the one-piece mantle dresse:
are made of plain one-tonc material will
trimmings of foulard: for instance, tn,
frock may be of blue or black silk, mad.
with straight, slender effect. fastening al
the way down the side to the bottom O.
the frock with buttons. while the uppe
lpart Of the frock is almost hidden by 4