Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1911-05-21
MAN IN HIS SUNDAY T0GS
Details OF the Proper Raiment for
Those Heedful of Fashions
DEGREES.
TOeS


A person who delivers oraoular opinions
as 70 the proper toys wherewithd a man
shall be clothed describes in the Haber-
dasher the correct costume for sunday
wear this spring.
The main garment" says the Sir
oracle, will be the black cutaway. The
frock coat is not at all in fashion, yet it
would be the best substitute for the cut
away. A dark gray cutaway would not
be incorrect. but black Is preferable, and
the edges should be braided.
The coat is snug at the waist. mod
erately broad at the shoulders, closes with
two buttons and has shirt sharply cut
away from the lower button and reach
ing to the bend of the knee. The lapels
are soft rolled, broad and join the collar
with n triangular notch. The trousers may
either match the coat fabric or be Of gray
striped cloth. The former is Just now a
| bit the smarter.
IF atmospheric conditions require a top
coat IT, too should be black or at least
] very dark. IL may be either very full.
hanging in ample folds from the shoulder,
| or the direct contrary decidedly shaped
Particular men have a black topcoat with
silk faced lapels for Sunday and evening
| wear. A topcoat showing any noticeable
color or pattern Is not in good taste for
either formal day or formal evening wear
THE hat must be the silk hat. Under
no conditions is the derby or the soft hat
permissible with the formal cutaway. This
seasons accepted block has moderate bell
and a brim rather broad with a D'Orsay
curl. The ultra silk hat is on the French
order with straight crown and fiat brim
With both styles the band is Of cloth, not
silk
when we come to consider collar, era
vat and shirt we find two standards, both
| of which have current approval. Some
men regard the black cutaway when em-
ployed for church and promenade a
| sem-formal garment. They. therefore
wear with 1t informal accessories, a shirt
with a pattern and even some color in it, a
fold collar and four-in- hand cravat. This
Is questionable form.
Others conceive Of the cutaway as a
ceremonious garment requiring ceremon-
ious accessories, whatever use one may
put 1t to. This is the more sensible view.
! These men wear a poke collar or a wing
collar with small tabs, a pearl Ascot and
white shirt of plain linen or pidue.
/ THE majority Of well dressed men will
compromise these views and wear wing
collar, one with small, square cornered
tabs, which are newer than the rounded
| tabs; a pearl four-in-hand or once-over.
the fourth hand not being tightly knotted
because a snug knot does not go well with
wing collar, and white shirt plain
or pleated, or a shirt Of white ground with
widely spaced hairlhes Of black,
Young chaps who like to kick over the
traces occasionally will mark a depart
use from this severely simple scheme of
black. white and gray by introducing color
in cravat and gloves The color will be
delicate, of course-any one OF the pastel
tints,
This seasons waistcoat to accompany
the cutaway is of the same material as the
coat. relieved at the neck opening by white
edging. 1t is cut sufficiently high to be
visible an inch or two above the coat when
the two bottoms of the coat are fastened.
and 1t has moderate bottom points, not the
very deep points of some past seasons L
would not class the white the gray
waistcoat as incorrect In conjunction with
the cutaway. But they have not fashions
Endorsement for this season.
What one wears In half hose doesn't
matter much with high shoes-boots, II
you prefer-because the trousers that go
with the cutaway are not short and turned
up at the bottom after the manner OF
lounge trousers, so that half hose are not
visible. Yet whether with thoes or OK
fords the mode approves only black half
hose. either plain or with self clockings.
The shoes must be Of patent leather and
buttoned. Caters have lost caste.
Gloves are preferably pearl suede or
pearl glace. buttoned, not clasped In
tewelry the cravat pin and the links are of
pearl or moonstone. and fine watch chain
Of gold gold and platinum or platinum
and pearl, combining bars with the links.
may be stretched across the waistcoat.
The walking stick is a matter of personal
liking, except that the whangee and other
Nights sticks are restricted to summer
wear"