The Washington herald., 1911-09-09
STYLES IN PARIS THAT ARE HIDEOUS;
, ONE MAKERS VERSION OF THE FASHIONS
Figures Se Dcscrpdn-Wte
Among the Best Models the Brittany Coat-The
Baby

Paris, Aug. 81 saw half a dozen new
dresses yesterday at a couturier's that is
thought to be the leading one in Paris.
He has not had his shop longer than
four or five years, but his originality in
dependence, and fearessness have put
him on a pedestal by himself. and now
the others undertake no steps without
consulting him. This man and his es-
tablishment have got away from the
center OF Paris. He is installed in the
Avenue dAntin, far of the public road.
Creations seen at this place are fright
full. They are dowdy, and yet the mani
kins who put on the clothes certainly
appear interesting and in a way modish,
though none OF them could be taken for
lady. However, that very air seems
just what half the Parisians are after.
1t is all the same to them If they be ex-
elusive, dStingue or not, so long as they
appear chic and unusually coifred and
dressed. This couturier tried to intro
duce the sandal for street wear in the
spring, and to linger in his salons and
see the manikins posing and promenad-
ing around, one would think that one
had fallen upon a crowd of dissolute
women.
Nearly a year ago the same couturier
attempted to introduce the corsetless
figure. In fact, none of the manikins
affect the least tightness and evenness
IN their lines, and I am sure that when
the autumn season is open in another
fortnight the women will have the same
air OF voluptuousness, that their clothes
will sag and appear slovenly and Ques-
tionable, that their corsetless waists will
be anything but edifying. And yet the
very effect Of all these women is what
Parisians are after. and the outlines
they gain is what every one is working
for.
Impossible Effects.
Some women of my acquaintance went
to the establishment recently to see what
was modish, and called for styles that
would be worn the next six months, at
least. So we were shown all that had
been designed recently. Effects were
impossible and hideous. II may be that
before another fortnight things will be
worked over. toned down. aud changed.
1t could never be that people could be
cultivated TO like such things, even
though we have been made to swallow
great deal in recent years. Styles
were original and picturesque, but there
the virtues ended.
As none Of the manikns wore cor
sets, skirts fitted exactly as one would
expect and as untidily Some of the
skirts had boning put in to reach below
the hips-not the old-fashioned strips of
bone, but soft wide material that kept
the skirt from appearing too impossible
Yet even with this the picture was hor-
rible-not the least dashing or stylish
CT smart. One tailor made was of terra
Gotta heavy serge, the skirt made quite
plain and narrow. There was a band of
red and black checked serge that ex-
tended half a yard up from the hem all
around.
The little shapeless jacket came only
to the hips, or rather to the waist line.
The sleeves were plain, and the Jacket
was finished with small, neat little revers
void OF the least beauty. This opened
over a plain vest OF orange velvet, fas-
tened with tiny glass buttons The jacket
was made in three pieces and there was
not the least slope at the waist. In fact,
1t was in line with the hips all the way.
The Jacket was in checked stuff the same
as that which faced the skirt.
This model was shown as one that
would have an indisputabIe success later
on. But the manjkin, as she moved
about, looked lopsided, uninteresting,
and worse than dowdy. Freakish might
best describe her ensemble Ugly as the
dresses have been in the past, they were
1t least interesting and oftentimes cum
ring, when worn by a chic woman or
graceful girl But not so the dresses
saw yesterday. AS for colors, reds were
in prominence, also bold yellows and the
dye about which I've been writing-sol-
ferino..
Evening Scarf Gowns.
Evening and afternoon gowns appeared
IN hA nf Nf -
skirts were more or less tight and with
out stiffness, and were to be worn with
out petticoat, unless the thinnest of lib
erty silk or satin. Two or three scarfs
Of different colored silk or chiffon form
ed a kind Of tunic, loose enough in the
picture until one moved; then one could
see where the ends were caught and the
extreme tightness that was the result.
These same pieces were put over the
shoulders to give a sloping effect, and
the arms were bare from halfway be-
tween shoulder to elbow.
The other gowns baffle description.
They were nothing more or less than
swathings Of goods. Sometimes there
was a slit at the side of the skirt that
was lost in the tunic. Evidently the
opening went above the ankle. To pro-
duce the soft, very lou effect, these sat-
ins-which have not the least body-are
faced with a kind Of woolen wadding
very thin yet enough to impart that de-
sired chiffoness. Ragged is no name to
give the evening dress or afternoon dress,
for the air Of them all is worse than that.
Many white frocks were sent to Trou-
e-Bauville for the races. One rather
pretty one had a skirt that employed two
ruffles OF English embroidery, the upper
part of the ruffle OF the embroidery and
the lower part of Irish lace. The corsage
was OF embroidery, and the only finish
was OF wide Irish lace which formed
lchus. Lace was also put on the sleeves
from the elbow down. The belt was old
rose satin. The frock was handsome
but trifie heavy. The ruffie all around
was fearfully skinny. It probably did
not measure more than two yards. Yet