New-York tribune., 1911-12-17

marked charce is taking place TN me
= n the pe.iCd and is even now here
-. long wasted effect is wen established
"a the increased lclness OF the latest
.'... "a accepted without Question Va
us vays are. however, employed 90 re-
.. tho sIenderueSs OF the hips. Flat
YES varying in dcpth, and with round
"a souare or pointed effect al the bottom,
.s,ve this purpose well; the skirt ielow th'
W. ,s either pleated or gathered a gown
!S,h,n material has a good skirt gathered TO
.ound waist line with ;he back fuluess
"a under p wide. fat box pleat; it is held
A., elk inches deep, by a line Of orna-
-.,r,al buttons set ON each edse Of the
.,.o, A nine-inch hem finishes it, and
stove this is a siX-inch wide tuck. The
sec, Is extremely satisfactory.
corset makers are advising their patrons
=, an Impending change in corsets, one
,As, will define the bust and make tho
xs,st appear more slender. The new long
,,eisted effect extends even to the latest
urgerie blouse. finished with a belt that
matches II. slightly pointed back and front.
women who only few weeks ago had
,bsir new skirts mounted az a high belt
I'm. are ordering them now cut 10 the nor
nal waist lire often a basque effect is
gwen to new blouSes by wide. square tabs
attached 10 the belt, or even a short cir
eular volant.
A long velvet plastron edged with fur
and trimmed I'm the middle with a lace
,sbot was a seasonahlc feature of @
,nart little coat whose square revers
posed These odd things are preferred this
season 10 a fur scarf or boa, and for coats
that close in military fashion to the throat
are little fur choEers that hook securely
about the neck under an ornamental bow
or rosette on one-piece gowns one often
sees long fur or fur-trimmed velvet scarf
draped about the figure from the front, the
ends returning to fasten on one hip. Jnde-
niably ugly and graceless. few women care
10 adopt so senseless a fashion.
Zibelinette. a FUR that has had an inn
nense success this season, eXquisitcly light
IN weight is particularly liked as a trim
ming as well as for scarfs and muffs. In
color It resembles sable, hence IFS name.
The shawl collar on all sorts Of coats
and garments continues I'm favor and large
ones are seen on the tiniest Of coats. IT
seems rather overpowering on little silk
coat that barely reaches 10 the edge Of the
hips and the collar is increased visibly by
a trimming of heavy silk fringe. on a new
evening cloak Of fine camels hair the shawl
collar is more satisfactory. In front IL
deepens TO cross low, closing at one side
under an immense fur button rosette; at
10 e. f,o1O Ia LIVE
with hood effect, and it-is finally finished
with a fringe composed OF fur-tipped
strands Of coarse black silk.
The latest sleeves are sewed 70 the lining
and then drawn through the wide elongat-
cd arrnhole with an effect Of two separate
garments on a new corsage this long arm
Mole is trim ned with a two-inCh wide fat
elk ruching. and the top edge Of the sur
plce corsage, trimmed 10 match, seems novel
enough with the absence Of any lace adorn-
nent.
Ta1etas is easily at the head of the line
OF materials for indoor eownlng. How
pretty II IS In pale fcries' Of color or in deli
cate changing tones. White marabou and
white swansdown trim It beautifully for
evening wear. This combination seems
especially fitted TO youth, but there seems
10 age limit placed nowadays 70 feminine
9owning Whatever * becoming IS accept
Cd. and wisely. What other criterion should
<here be? These new tafetas. soft as the
sottest satins, hang with inefable grace Of
line. Fancy an evening coat OF blue chang
able taffetas beins Ii0ed with white velvet
abe soft white stuff turning over into q fat
collar and into wide cuffs ON the Wide open
sleeves
For afternoon and simple dinner gowns
Of white taffetas the preferred corsage
sdOrnment is sul the graceful fchu. Cen
orally, Il IS made OF white tuile or Erus-
ses net. but many women prefer it made