The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1911-12-08

dictators OF fashion have seen fit to
juggle with the waistline ever since
last winter. moving It up and down.
lat their within and pleasure, until
the women were completely bewil-
dered. 1t was, and is now, by no
means an unusual thing to find in
the same exhibit of some famous
creator Of fashions costumes of
which every one has the waistline
at different height.
During the last season the waist
line was again slightly raised. and
now word comes from Paris that the
newest models show lowered waist
line. one only slightly above nor
NAL, which probably means that ere
long the waistlines will again return
to its natural position. The long,
,rareful lines so eagerly sought for
| by designers of clothes have rejoic-
ed in vogue that has given them
an opportunity TO indulge their fam
Icy to the utmost With the return
" the normal waistline will un-
'o~t.odly come the introduction OF
$500 trains on afternoon and even
| ing gowns, for in no other way can
that sweep Of grace be obtained.
| The accepted line OF the waist
this season il one and one-half in
ches above the normal in the back,
graduating to one inch above in
front. The most fashionable frocks
will be made after that model. al
though in the evening gowns great
sr liberaties viii be taken with this
portion of the frock.
Double-faced materials, both silks
and woolens, are much In vogue at
the present time and will be much
in evidence during the winter sea-
son. Top coats. poo and motor
coats are all being made OF reversi-
BILE cloth. Soft neutral tones often
have reverse sides In brilliant
shade of bright green or blue, cerise
or orange. which shows in collars
and cuffs.
Smart coats are made up OF dark
polo cloth backed with white, the
huge white collar and deep cuffs
being chic and becoming il not ex-
actly as serviceable as those of a
darker hue. Checkered effects are
smart as reversed sides to plain
toned woolens. Often these coats
are in fact reversible. making a
pleasing and convenient change for
the wearer. For instance. a dark
blue blanket coat. on loose, wide
lines. has as its reverse side a light
blue-and-white plaid surface. During
the day 1t is worn in the motor car
and In the evening is turned inside
out and worn over a dark gown to
the cafe and theatre.
/ Lightweight double-faced cloths
are designed for coat suits. One at
tractive model is of dark blue serge
backed by a narrow stripe In old
blue and black. The hem of the
skirt is turned up on the right side,
thus giving the effect OF band trim
ming. Collar and cuffs are treated
In like manner, but are faced with
In an inch of the edge with old blue
satin.
Another trig suit is Of tobacco
brown satin-finished cloth faced
with small check in dark brown
and moss green. Besides the re-
versed side. this shows touches OF
green satin-covered cords outlining
the seams and Stimulating button
holes which meet large fancy metal
buttons. Black is faced with a soft
deep-toned yellow; deep blue. with
cerise or the richer dahlia tints.
Other interesting combinations
are shadings Of violet and purple.
stone gray with red. beige and dark
green. In the satins and other silk
en- stuffs the color schemes are even
more complicated, shot or change
able effect often backing a plain
color. Black satin. showing a re-
versible side Of rich purple. blue.
yellow or red. Is being employed for
afternoon and evening gowns. the
bright side being used In many cley-
er ways as trimming. There are
many varieties and grades Of these
materials in the market and there
is no doubt that they will be worn a
great deal during the winter.
| Long coats Of moleskin are a fad
OF the moment. and judging from
the number OF them worn must be
selling well. They are lovely in
color and texture and the pelts are
supple enough for graceful handling.
but the fur is not so practical as
some Of the tougher furs and has
not the permanent value OF the more
costly furs such as sable. chinchllla.
broadtaiI. etc.
Fur coats showing two furs IN
coordination are numerous. though
usually developed - 40 less expen-
slve pelts. Seal Of the Hudson or
French variety and moIeskin in COM
bination are popular and more ef-
fective than one would imagine be-
tore seeing them. the coloring being
sombre but rich. Long straight
scarfs and huge muffs made of al
s"'nsting bands OF these two furs
are one OF the faneles OF the mo-
ment. Moieskin Il often combined
with ermine not only In small furs
but IN extremely elegant coats. the
soft gray and white forming q most
harmonious and charming color
scheme.
The Importance OF lace In the
scheme OF present day fashions can
not be too strongly EMPHASIZED Rnk.