Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-02-12

~NoRDING To the Cyntcs. to be
~ successful is To make enemies
and IL would almost seem as
L ~ though the remarkable success
Of the revived directoire mode
had inspired in certain quarters a wish
Tor its immediate DOWNFALL. Those, how
ever. who have given any time and
thought To the study Of dress from the
historical point or view, and who have
even casually glanced through the fash
ion plate of days gone by, must have
realized the fact that changes from one
style To another are never brought
about suddenly, and that fashion is
very careful 10 prepare her notaries by
degrees for any important alteration IN
the outline of the figure or the position
of the waist.
At the present moment, so far as IL
is possible to judge, the new modes
prove to be unusually attractive. One
Of the most charming features Is their
adoption from the old world portraits.
For two or three seasons past we have
seen their influence until this matter OF
treating clothing has finally been ac-
cepted by the best dressed woman or
the day. We may then expect to see 4
continuance OF the short-waisted di-
rectoire bodices. and the close-ciinging
skirts for many months to come. to-
fashions, the leading designers having
shown both skill and taste in combin-
ing these artistic features with the
new modes of today.
OF course some OF the latest specI-
mems Of the hobble skirt, the tortured
scarf draperies and other atrocities
were little short of the grotesque. We
Sarb, who defies criticism, and seems
to say, Give me a pair Of scissors and
II piece OF stuff, and i will shape a gar
ment therefrom according To my ideas
OF Dress
But the modistic madness was happily
only a temporary phase, although for
those who yearn for fuller skirts no COM
fort is offered. Society mas 50 triumphed
over the individual that actions are never
free.
The adaptation of our toilets from por
traits of bygone days has done much ~
bring us to a better appreciation OF the
picturesque and artistic In dress Inc
evolution Of Il gown Is simply enthralnn6,
and when a person of taste copies from
pictures of these modes the result. while
quaint and original, Is often I.ighly ar
tistic. Scarfs copied exactly from those
worn by the famous beauties are now
cons. dered an essential accessory In tne
toilet of every fashionable woman. IL.
then, we are fortunate enough as to pos
sess one of those beautiful old-fashioned
paisley shawls, or shawl OF some nno
old lace, how beautifully they can De
used on any of the new tunic eHects. or
for the making of one of the simple.
quaint, empire frocks, which, with a TO
liable pattern and little SAVIOR iaire.
can so easily be made up at home. Ihis
same shawl may also be resurrected ano
draped for an evening wrap. Its exquisite
coloring harmonizing wonderfully With
our pale-coored satin gowns.
In the midst of much that is extravA-
gantly ornate the eye turns with CRATE
full sense of repose to the more severe
afternoon frock, provided 1t Is worn ~
the correct type" to match the gown
With the advancing season are disap-
pearing all the undecided tints and Jaun-
diced-looking browns and yellows that
were so vastly unbecoming, and we have
in their place rich shades that are de-
light for sore eyes; episcopal purple, and
this in the mediums best calculated 10
show up it's lustrous depths, velvet anu
panne, emerald greens. indigo biue, ever
known shade of gray. from steel TO smoke
and AL shades of crimson, from rose tints
down to the deep wine shades. To SHOW
I'D the contrast OF these colors, nearly
every costume owns touch OF black
about it, roll collars and revers or Gun
black satin or Ottoman silk in the tailor
coats; black braidings or embroidery
scarfs on the more elaborate gowns.
With these antique colors go solid fao-
RIGS to express them-velvet, panne,
MORE antique, etc
The penchant for yellow continues I'M
abated, the shades ranging from a deep
mandarin to the palest citron. An adora-
BILE creation OF orange crepe De cnne-a
very heavy weight-Was arranged WIN li,t a
1ichu corsage. the crepe interfolded with
orange velvet rather deeper in tone, more
mandarin, and dropped well over the arm
on little sleeves OF old lace, the deSlsh
picked out with gold. The complete Az
sence OF embroidery or Itself renoereu lhiA
model remarkable.
Many charming hats are to be seen aS
suitable for m,dwinter as Tor cary
spring days. or light, airy aspect. they
are made OF fancy feathers and Worn
quite forward, although not in an ekas,
gerated manner. the hair being allowed
to show over the forehead
The poke shape appears insistently, and
some OF the chief Partisan milliners viii
continue this insistence until spring
shows the poke shape In first rank. In
one pretty specimen purple mousseline
was shirred around the crown ana out
over the br'a. but showed only snShuE
under the falling frills OF fine creamy
lace and TIM ljCiple satin scarf knotted
around the crown. The top OF the crown
was in fine quality old silver Lace, anu
strings, or rather the ono wide bonnet
string was of the purple satin.
Then there is q lovely bonnet wooes
dropping brim, with its attractive little
kick-up at front and back, is OF delicious
delicate green straw-we must be In ad-
vance of the modes nowadays, and Al
ready felt hats are taking q back scat
while the whole high crown II covered
with nodding branches OF palest lavender
lilacs.
The favorite hat for automobiling Is
the 1890 poke shape This is made Ia
every sort of material, hut the prettiest
are those in pompadOur silk, the satin
ribbon arranged with rosettes over the
cars to hold the hat In place. A dapha-
nous Veil ii gauge or chiffon envelopo the
Will Wells match motor hats to q
MAJ vel5us degree. and In this way tie
bright green's. purple blues, garish reds
and other strong cOlors are eliminated
in the case CT the wen yelled motprist.
1t is charming sight to see, during tho
parade hours in, the Bots. the
cloud of exquisite, vaporous yelling, foat-
ing in the air as the motors fly past. tho
light shades and the dark shades acting
as favorable foils one to another.
Evening millinery and evening acces-
series are numerous. Twists OF velvet
or chiffon are worn, either with the two
outstanding wired feathers in the same or
colofs, or with the inevitable
rose. Flowers carried in the hand is