Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1911-05-28
ONE-PIECE GOWNS IN VOGUE
Conservative, but Free Lines Held
Proper in Dress.
SILHOUETTE IS THE THING
Trimming IL Placed On Rather Than
BUTT Into the Garment-Many
Partisan Designs Are
Offered.

have awakened no end of interest. the
showing comprising many superb costumes
The models shown in the majority of win
dows are Of course, in most cases much
too radical for the American woman but
styles designed on simpler lines are meet
ing with great approval from all. as we'll
as the June brides.
The points that stand out definitely as
different this season are the general
catholicity Of the length Of Jackets. the
retaining OF the slender silhouette figure,
the use of doubIe-faced fabrics. the re-
verse side being used for trimming effects;
the prevalence Of heavy Bulgarian trim
mings on all thin gowns. the use OF glace
taffeta instead Of satin in dressmaking.
the use Of surah and the small amount OF
pongee this summer much lace, two and
three kinds on a gown and put on differ
ent places on the dress, use Of charmeuse
and marquisette and messaline. return to
favor Of braidng, neatness and simplicity
in man-tailored suitngs, Transparent
guimpes in many dresses and the popu
larlty OF collarless bodices
No, particular period of dress prevails
and really the women this year have their
choice Of the styles of the ages Oriental
and French models are both popular. and
with them in equal favor for general Use
is the tailored suit with the eton Jacket.
Callot favors Louis XIV, as is shown in
his designs, using fichu effects and flat
panier draperies. Paquin has many dra
peries, but his idea is to have them trans
parent and collant Poiret is strongly ORR
entail and indeed the far east is contrib
uting more to the style than the French
periods. In the eton Jackets only young
and slender women are advised to use the
shorter cuts below the hip being the
model OF the greater popularity
variety in Partisan Designs
Callot' Paquin, Drecoll, Poiret. Bernard
HaVet, Rondeau, Cherult Bechoff David
Doucet Beer Worth, Martial Armand
and Francis have all gowns Of distinctive
cdliber for the summer wear and. of
course the American made-ready-to-wear
dresses follow somewhat closely the lines
proposed by these designers. Paris STYLES
are generally Of the Louis XIV the use
OF lace frills and wide revers being a new
and pleasing feature.
A general tendency in gowns is to have
them longer and in many cases a train of
from twelve to fifteen inches long is the
style The train is usually OF the center
pointed kind. Color is varied. but gener-
ally palmer than In previous years a
strong leaning to black and white mark
ings being found Touches of the brilliant
cerise, emerald green, and Helen pink are
stylish trimming and in the light, filmy
dance and evening gowns many colored
effects promise popular attraction.
In the tailored suits the coat is the per-
picking problem. The new suit coat is
short in the back and decided cut-away,
the type described being given the prefer
anna ovar tho holero afvIa nv tho Da ~
fanciers. Skirts are narrow, but not of
the hobble, the two-yard skirt being pop
ular.
The general effect in building skirt, as
one dealer described IT, is to do away with
any idea of n tlounce effect Suitings must
be straight up and down. preserving slen-
derness. Smpleness Of cut is the idea,
with trimmings put on rather than built
in
Freedom of motion is essential in any of
the dresses of popularity this year. Tail
ored suits are naturally built to allow this,
and except the formal party gown 1t will
be necessary in all other dresses Even
in the formal gown motion is bowed to in
all dressmaking.
One Piece Gowns in Favor.
The volume Of business this year will
undoubtedly be done In the medium priced
one piece summer gowns. Black messaline
is the thing in some dresses, and the party
gown OF messaline with chiffons for drap-
ing and bringing out harmonizlng and con-
trasting shades are especially good. Wide
bands distinguish themselves on all dresses,
the band being of silk around the belt and
often openwork and beadwork in the waist
of the dress. F1let and Venise lace for
belt and decorative purposes, combined
with hand embroidery on almost every
kind of model. seem TO hold their place
with persistency.
A new touch in the gowns is the tunic,
cut plain across the front and slashed
across the back. displaying the messaline
foundation of a filmy dress combination.
Few of the tunics have straight lines about
the bottom. but are either pointed at each
side, curling up towards the front or back,
or are cut pointed In the back and follow
ing the line of the train
Sleeves on the dressy gown are still cut
in-one with the bodice and are invariably
OF elbow length. A band OF trimming or a
three four in cuff Of contrasting ma
terial Is a nice finish for the gown sleeve.
On the tailored coat the sleeve is exactly
the counterpart OF the mans coat sleeve.
Cut from the shoulder, general lines, and
cuff finish are as near the mans coat
as possible.
The peasant bodice holds its place al
though relieved OF some OF It's simplicity
by the clever designs OF the period. The
American women clingz to the open neck,
many OF the dresses OF the more simple
cut. having tho Dutch square neck.
YOkes Are Marrow.
The surplice bdoioe. crossed in back and
just meeting in front at the girdle, is seen
on many evening frocks. A narrow band OF
trimming and the tunic are used on the
gown of this type. Bodice and elbow
sleeves are cut in one and the waist is gath
cred into a collarless yoke. This yoke is
narrow In front and wide in back. extend
ing out broad over the shoulders, ending
in a point low in each sleeve The yoke
does not quite meet in the center at the
front.
"Jupe culotte." the harem skirt, has
aroused more interest than any other dress
of the modern time. 1t will awaken inter-
est among the public whether or not it is
worn. and many a dealer declares that they
will be worn in the modified form this
summer. The Turkish trousers are popu-
lar as are the old-fashioned bloomer for
summer wear.
For wear In general usage and not In
party and formal dances. the one-piece en-
pire gown holds It's place well. They are