New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-07-16
Paris. July 5.

Paris. July D.
The foods of rain that fell so unexpect-
edly the day Of one or the smartest races
of the srande semaine caused the total
ruin of many a chef d'Guvre OF the art OF
the couturiere and Of the modiste. Rain
melted into nothingness superb creations OF
lace and embroidery. tulle, feathers ana
flowers-a nothingness so complete they
might never have BEEN so filmy, so little
able to stand weather exposure are the
materials that compose the costumes and
hats Of midsummer-and shorn of the shell
ter Of their flmy coverings no" the
drenched limbs revealed themselves through
petticoatIess skirts, Under the sudden
dovnpour. with skirts held high above
pretty shoes and silk stockings, how all the
world fed FOR shelter and. alas, how com
paratively few found 1t!
Lace OF all sorts enters lavishly into the
composition of midsummer gowning' Many
costumes are composed entirely Of IT,:
others are lavishly trimmed with lace;
CbaptilIv NIalincs. point d'Aiguiles and
Nenise. Worn by a pretty brunette durl"s
the Crande semainc a charming costume
Of white satin was draped with tune
shaped from an old shawl Of black Chan
I
pulled up on the corsage i'm front, was
slipped a wide belt Of jade green rbooh' II
tied I'm an enormous bow at the back and
ends. knotted several times and fell 10 the
hem of the skirt which dragged a little
Donna Bice Titoni the wife of the l'aI-
ian Ambassador. wore a costume OF dark
blue silk soutache in the same shade. ms
pretty trimming covered the lower part OF
the long coat sleeves and the back or the
shawl collar and simulated basques on me
side of the half long coat. The lower part OF
the shawl rever was Of the plain SILK us
edges finished with n heavy cord. Inc
scutache adornment showed itself again in
tho side breadthS OF the skirt Many Wm'e
rlumes trimmed her wide hrimmed black
Rat 4 pretty girl. in the same group wore
n Louis XVI gown of taupe colored fallIe
silk The skirt. quite plain, was gathered
10 a round waistine and the corsage was
nearly covered with its fchu Of white
mousseline de sole and lace frills. Crcling
the bust. covering the edge Of the hchu'
back ana front. and continuing in the same
line over the arms. were two outstanding
frIls Of fine lace invisiby wired TO keep
them in position; the lower edge of each
FIN was covered 10y an inch wide band OF
black velvet. slipped. at wide Intervals
through little buckles Of dull gold
In a manner quite unusual Dame FASH
ion. WHO had nothing definite TO say for
herself at the beginning Of the season. has
~ the height of midsummer decided that
dresses similar 10 the one described above
are the thing" While exceedingly simple
in effect il is exceedingly difficult and ex-
ueusive 10 preserve the daintiness Of these
fehus. berthas and fat linen collars, mere
~ hemstitched and unstiffened; therefore
these little "rothinEs" are likely to re-
main somewhat exclusive.
The influence Of this period OF the eigh-
teenth century is further seen in the lavish
use of black velvet ribbon. In long. wide
brides" it tics hat br!mS; IL is used for
reckbands slipped through jewelled bars
ana Ties I'm little bows over long lace
sleeves It's use on parasols is not so sue
cessm for however thin and soft the
quality OF the velvet employed when used
I'm wide borders and bands and as a cover
TO the long handles, it increases uncom-
fortabN the weight.
White and black toilets. i'm spite OF
thcir long reign. continue TO dominate in
mos large assemblies Of fashionable
women For this reason a sheath gown of
black satin is useful above all things. At