The Washington herald., 1911-09-02

n dressmaking circles in Paris
the shape and size OF skirts
eadIng Coutmiers are on opposite
IF the dispute One wishes to pre-
the long. straight line we've been
the past year or so. The other
Is 10 put in several reefs, thereby
King the effect not voluminous but
decidedly larger than the modish skirt
at present worn.
l. Tho public is hardly ready for a wide
or half-wide skirt, and the cOuturiers
have learned by past experience that
aAhey must not fly in the face Of the
Iblic. The silhouette of fashionable
pmen, ridiculous as il is, rather pleaseS
eye, now that it is trained to length
narrOwness. and to inaugurate any
ing else would produce a dOwdy effect
there the Jwo men stand each stiff
his own door; each bringing all sorts
arguments to bear on his side. each
nvincing until the other side is heard.
Were skirts wider it would mean that
be waist line would have to come down
everal inches: that is, to its normal pO-
ition, and the corset would have to be
.hanged. for with the wide cut there
would have TO he waist line and curve
II hip. Undoubtedly the wider skirt will
arrive before another year, but just at
present il will remain about the same.
Tunics may become more vOluminous
and lend a larger effect TO the ensemble
but tunics have been creeping into i'm
portanCe a long time.
Compromise Narrow Skirt.
Overskirts may come as a truce be-
tween the wide and narrow skirt bridg-
,ng things With Uverskirts skirts
proper can never be ample. But just
what the Rue de la PaiX and Place
Vendome people are going to do is pro-
found secret. They will have 20 come
TO some conclusion between now and
the next few days. The openings We're
to have been in August, but all this
harangue has delayed things Sleeves
have been decided upon, and the opinion
is that the kimono will be used no
more except for house dresses.
Corsages will have standstill, for
nothing can be done until the skirt ques-
ton has been decided. once d way has
been chosen. the work, r. in the estab-
hshments will work like, beavers. night
and day, to get their wares completed
and their reputation as OTlginatOrS suS-
tanned. COlUrs have not Yet been de-
sided upon, but, then. color is never Of
great moment in Paris In America one
ur two dyes rule the season. but. here
q dozen COlOrS are WOl9, ana no one
Is particularly Influenced by what some
one else chooses.
Navy blue was and is still a leader
and ! may say that for the first time
In ages one shade has led to the almost
extinction of others in Paris. But that
may have been because black and very
gTewsome tones had been modish sol
long that navy blue was a happy change
and yet not a decided one. 4 person
who follows models in Paris has
learned that nowadays there is no such
thing as quick change in styles from
one season TO another. People must bel
4 pacif1ed and their taste must be Cul-
tivated gradually, not from one hys-
teric leap to anOther.
Collars Continue Large.
Immense collars are being put Oh all
sorts OF dresses to be worn here. and
those 10 be sent away. Revers are square,
covering bust and shoulders. In many
cases they are like capes, but they are
never stiff. for the effect is always
soft and fOu. When fichus are made. |
too. they rather increase the size or
width OF the front. The immense talbot
worn 10 slant to the left shoulder has
been the most popular style for a long
TIM in the way Of neck finishes, and |
will stay with US until cool weather. |
SlO-I women 90 IoI look well IN the |
plated JabOt, but for JHem there is a |
dainty rever Of lace and batiste-with- |
out fullneSs-to be placed over one side |
Of the jacket.
The big satin collar on satin the |
toilor-made, is now made more summery |
by putting lace over the collar. either |
maline. imitation Venice. or even VAL /
enrlennes. cOlOred saffron hue by Cof- |
Zee This deep cream tone enriches the |
fleet and is better against the black
than a dead white would be All effects !
are soft and uncomprumiSing this year |
and ii We see any black and white cos
tunes there is cream somewhere or
some Harmonious color to take away
the severity. That Is one reason why
lace collars are put on silk and satin
rocks.