The Birmingham age-herald., 1911-12-31
CAIRO THE INCOMPARABLE
By c. F. MARKELL

nnELL
 nights one has to take the middle of the thoroughfare. for the sidewalks are thronged far beyond the cur5s with motley mass of humanity smoking drinking, laughing, singing, swearing and playing at cards, dice and backgammon The confusion of sounds is deafening and added to the uproar al fresco may be heard the strummng of the mandolin, the discordant notes of crazy pianos and the wild laughter of the dancing Nautch girls within doors But though wild by night, the city is beautiful by day and what shall 1 say. what can I say of it's stttely mosques without number, it's in numerable spires and graceful minarets glistening in the sunlight it's beautiful parks, it's fascinating bazars and its lat ticed windows of cedar wood, inlaid with mother of pearl?
 The donkey is to Cairo what the cab is to New York and there are 50,0O0 of them In the city. Their masters keep them closely clipped and painted with stars or stripes of bizarre coloring. The donkey boys, clad in a single garment essay to obtain patronage by appealing to the pa triotism of the traveller who is informed that 'Abe Lincoln," Prince Bismarck" !" Champagne Charley" Yankee Doodle" Teddy" Mark Twain" and "Washing- lOil d1e SOuc Ol lIe 0dIiltS Ol ln6 poor little beasts.
 The fez is ubiquitous and I soon found myself wearing one on the street and at the table, for it is the vogue to dine in this national headgear. The splendor of the mosques and the quaint ness of the Coptic church, in which latter is shown a cave that is said to have sheltered the Christ child and parents during the flight into Egypt were of course interesting, but that which appealed to me most was the mummies of the great Pharaohs of old who moved and ruled and fought 5000 years ago. At the museum I saw Ra- meses II, who oppressed the Hebrews, and old Seti, his father; but I was particularly impressed with the em- ba1med remains of Queen Hatschepsut or Hatasu with her baby still at her feet; that great queen who suffered as woman and trtumphed as an em- press; who fought as warrior and ruled monarch and whose name Is linked with the glory of Egypt in degree not less than that of Cleopatra herself.
 I spent an entire day in Heliopolis. the On of the Bible where Joseph lived and married Asenath, the priests daughter; where Jacob found his two sons and where Moses was educated. The city is just six miles from Cairo and is an architectural dream of mar ble and glittering stones whose white ness is only surpassed by that of the sands upon which they are built Ev- cry house, shop and bazar Is a pal ace and 1t seemed to me absolute toily to build in so magnificent a manner upon Sdesert waste, but l am told that it has proved profitable invest ment. The King of Belgium was a guest at one of the hotels at Heliopolis and on the day of n> visit the Khedive drove out to pay his respects to the European monarch. Mounted sentinels along the road advised me of the ap- proach of royalty and when the Khe- dlvial party hove in sight I discarded my carriage and, standing by the high way, saluted the Khedive which salute was graciousyl acknowledged
 After spending some time in Heliop- oils l drove over to- inspect it's ad- iacont obelisk and the Tree of the Virgin"
 The obelisk is of rose red granite and is the second oldest monument of its kind in existence; 1t was standing when Jerusalem, Athens and kou., were the wild haunts of barbarians. Such shafts were always built in pairs, but no one today can name or even guess the resting spot of it's con- panion. There it stands alone. defiant and awe inspiring. It was there when Abraham forsooh his Chaldean home and Jacob saw 1t when he came down from Canaan. It witnessed the pass ing of the gorgeous cortege of Solo mons i'll starred queen and Shisshak's 12,000 chariots en route to the de- spelling of Solomon's temple; 1t saw Pharaoh Necho set forth to do bat tle against the warriors of Assyria and to slay Josiah at Meggido; around 1t echoed the prophetic words of Jere-s miah proclairling that same Pharaoh Necho's doom and 12000 full moons had danced upon its glittering crest when Pythagoras moved beneath its shadow. To its vicinage came Herodotus. Cam