New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-11-08
a. News Of |ntgFgSt e.
" to ,M9men ~
>Soyers Paper Bag Cooking
Gets the Good Out of Food
BY Preserving the Natural Flavors of Food 1t Exctes
the Appetite and Promotes Digestion. Thus lnsurins
the Proper Nourishment of the Body.
BY MARTHA McuLLocH WILLIAMS.

Eating serves a double purposs-the CIV
ing of pleasure, the keeping up OF strength.
Ill-cooked food reduces both 70 q minimum,
hence the proverb, God sends meat and
the devil sends cooks" Possibly his satanic
majesty now and again mods. II must have
been In such a somnolent interval that he
let VI. Soyer's system of paper bag cooking
get by him, for unquestionably II Is in
the way Of reducing i'll cooking at least
one-half Thereby II will help 10 feed lat
all the nations of the earth.
The use OF cooking IS 10 change the ma
ture of food substances. making them at
once better tasting and more digestble.
Heat works by developing favors and
transforming substances. Its most I'M
portant Office is. however, to break down
fibre animal and vegetable, 10 such de-
gree as 10 render Il easily digestible. II IT
is 10 do this II must be properly applied
That is to say, gently. regularly. Every
body knows that rapid boiling, long con-
tinued takes away the substance Of food,
leaving only a mass, tough and nearly
tasteless Simmering, contrariUise, leaves
the thing simmered tender-wlth the draw
back that 1t is almost equally tasteless.
Cl6N4NS - UOL IIuCI pcllrl~lIIO
quantity of water has TO be frequently re-
neved and each fresh supply takes some
thing Of flavor to itself.
Hence the vogue of roasting and broil-
ing. Both processes make possible truly
savory meats. But they do it rather ex-
pensively, when you take account OF nutri-
ment. The inedible percentage is always
considerable. Then, further. only the
choicest and most expensive cuts are
really suitable TO such cooking.
Comes now NJ. Soyers paper bag system
OF cooking TO even the balance. By help
OF II all manner of meats can be served
tender and full favored. Thus their food
value is greatly increased. Science IS just
now finding out how important part taste
plays In upbuilding and rebuilding the
human frame. That is 10 say. our palates
are endowments. not mere fanciful ex-
crescencee. What ple3ses them is good
for Us, what they reject will be burden
rather than a help. Cookery has been
run this long time on the principle that
the first duty Of d dish was 10 be good,
not 70 lock good. nor 10 taste good The
being good is all right, but the tasting
good Is quite as well worth while. BY
conserving 10 NpISs k'fllB6 III illN t3F'IA iHi
essences, the paper bag goes far 10 help
nourish those who eat Of its contents.
Proper nourishment IS the keystone Of
health. Napoleon the Great Is not the only
man who has lost out greatly because Of
ill-cooked food. An underdone roast OF veal
is said To have cost him victory, when
victory meant changes in the map Of
Europe Who knows how many p do
mestic or financial Waterloo has had its
first cause IN A bad dinner? The paper
bag cannot al at once change all that.
but It can and will 60 = long way toward
IL by educating men and women into
knowledge Of how things ought to taste
and smell and look. And thereby u will
diminish alike dyspepsia and divorce.
Simple food. we'll cooked. Is the foundation
OF happness-and paper bag cooking means
good cooking.
It follows naturally that the paper bag
is especially useful in preparing food for
delicate persons and growing children. II
prevents mixture OF favors, the talntins
Of food with anything eXtraneous. This
seems a trlfe 70 healthy persons. but is far
from being so in case Of an invalid, and
especially Of a conv3lescent. Proper ncur-
ishment. then, is much more than half the
battle Here follow some dishes that have
helped build I'D weak and wasted persons
That they will be likewise good for chill
dren, especially delicate ones, admits OF no
doubt:
Pigeon Roast-Take sqUab. 4 squab-
chicken IS small as possible. or 2 quail;
dress It whole, stuff lightly with toasted
bread crumbs, adding a raisin or two, or
shreds Of tart apple Season very lightly
inside before stufine Rub little more
salt outside, but only a little. Rub also
with soft butter, not melted. and dredge
very lightly with -four Then wrap in
bacon. sliced as thin as possible, and put
into buttered bag, with . half teaspoon
ful Of water. Seal and cook in a hot oven
twenty to thirty minutes, depending on the
size. The squab-chicken may require
th.rty-fve minutes. Serve with lightly
toasted brown bread or graham crackers,
and gravy from the bag.
Shredded Wheat and Tomatoes-Pour
upon each shredded wheat biscuit required
a easpoonful OF melted butter Lay the
buttered biscuit IN a we'll buttered bag. and
pile upon them thick slices Of peeled to-
rnatoes, Well seasoned with sugar, salt,
black and red pepper. Seal and cook for
ten minutes. Serve on hot plates. y pleas
ing variant for children IS 10 use. instead
OF tomatoes, bananas, peeled, cut IN cubes.
covered with sugar and lemon Juice, and
cooked To- eight minutes. This can be
served with cream.
Copyright 1911. ty The Associated Literary
Press
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