The Pioche record. [volume] (Pioche, Nev.) 1908-1925, 1911-05-20

any spot In Italy where good Nea-
politans are more out of their ele-
ment than they are in Viterbo,
writes Juan Cartere in Paris LIE
Temps. AS the crow flies, it is only
little more than 100 miles from
Naples to Viterbo, yet the journey
lands you in another world, another
era. Whereas Naples is brilliant, noisy,
gay and busting, Viterbo has a savage
aspect, harsh and repellent.
Naples, spread out along the shore
of its enchanted bay, salutes and well
comes the traveller; white sails come
bobbing toward him; the thronging
streets seem to greet him; the city's
windows are like smiling eyes; and
the joyous hum of the place seems a
song in his honor. Viterbo, on the
contrary, arises from hill, surround
ed with walls and bastions and tur-
rets. To reach 1t you must pass through
dense forest and pass beneath steep
walls and go in through narrow gate,
with threat ening carved bogies. Mar
row winding streets struggle up the
hill and lose themselves among old
fortified houses, in which medieval
families sought protection against one
another, just as the whole town sought
protection against its neighbors. A
heraldic lion, symbol of this proud city,
frowns from every street corner, as
if to say to the visitor: Gave leonem.'
And the inhabitants themselves have
the noble, naughty air of their de.
vice. AS you pass they look at you
without stirring from their doors or
balconies. and they seem to you as
eternal and immovable as the sculp
lures and black stones of their pal
aces. They have grand manners
though. replying in lordly style to your
questions, but without undue defer.
ence; they feel themselves the equals
Of anybody on earth.
A veritable eagles nest was the
proud savage viterbo in the old days
For centuries II rivaled Rome and Its
history is torrent Of strong, conflict
| ing passions. It's people boast oil
descent from the ancient Etruscant
and of having been masters of the
world until Roman brigands came ant
disputed their primacy. But withou
going back to the misty, prehistoric
days, Viterbo has glory enough. Dur
ing the middle ages her people played
q prominent part in the broils of Ital,
and especially in the affairs of thu
papacy. Many a time they Tough
Rome herself, often with success
never with utter defeat.
In the time of the Emperor Barbar
ossa they assailed the Eternal cit,
and carried off the bronze doors O
the Lateran as memento and 1t wa
only by trickery that the terrible Pop
Innocent III. recovered them. Anoth
er time, about the middle of tn
twelfth centuray, Rome and Viterb
had regular war, for cause worth
Of the Iliad. The two cities Tough
over the beautiful eyes of noble lad
of Viterbo named Galiana, whom
great Roman lord had carried away
The lords of Viterbo with their vassal
and henchmen went to Rome and do
handed their fair compatrtot back. an
Rome had to give her up.
Moreover. don't believe the peopl
of Viterbo have to go back to the mit
die ages to find tales of daggers an
gore. This city has never ceased t
be bellicose and heroic and durin
the entire nineteenth century the son
Der forest that surrounds its wall
teemed with the most romantic an
adventurous brigands of Europe. Tkos
hrigands were no mere vulgar higl
waymen; they were rebels, who too
to the woods like the classic bandit
Of Corsica. Naturally. they were a,
mired and adored by the people, VIII
recounted their exploits in many
} stirring srslad. One need not be pa,
middle age to know the last of thos
princes of the forest for the last
them became extinct only little MOI
J than 20 years ago, and was mourned |
, the whole country. Ask an Italian
: recite the exploits Of Tivurce, Mer
chetti and Ansuini. and you will ha,
a thrilling tale.
One day, Fioravanti complained of
rich land owner who broke his wol
and attempted to betray the popul
brigand. That worthy did not wait
summon a secret tribunal and conden