Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1911-06-29

| ibNIi NilpSt nantes Sl1lliC DIlBtlI DIS
planets of the first magnitude in the
heavens of the true gastronome, the
Indifference of the average well in
formed person to the literature of the
subject is rather surprising.
OF course, one finds everywhere
| Thackeray's Ballard of Bouillabaisse.
| with its fearful lament over the pass
ing of the chef Terre, and his hymn to
the noble dish:
This bouila baisse a noble dish is
b \ sort of soup or broth or stew,
or hotehpotch of all sorts of fishes
mat Greenwich never could Guido,
Green herbs, red peppers, muSSelS, SAT
Soles, onions, garlic. roach and dace;
All these you eat at Terre's tavern
In that dish of Bouilabaisse.
Indeed rich and savory stew It's;
And true philosophers, me thinks
" no love all sorts of natural beauties
Should love good voctuSls and good
drinks,
And Cordelier or Benedctine
Might, gladly. sure his lot embrace,
Nor find a fast day too afnicting
Which served him up a Eouliia baisSe.
Under the head of "A symphony in
Cold Elizabeth Pennel Robbins has
written an interesting chapter on this
SAINT Bouillabaisse, calling attention t.
the fact that, after all it is in Mar
settles that one must seek the perfect
dish. Truly the same amiahle writer
remarks in her chapter on The Vr-
tue of Gluttonya that it vas in the
dark ages that man first began to look
on food as something fearful.
Like many others of the modern
writer's on the subject. Mrs Robbins
takes her tone from the brilliant Bril-
lat SaVarin, whose book, La physiol-
ogie du Gout, on fluctuations de Gas
tronomie Transendante," is a Verita-
Bile classic.
Arthcme Brillat- Savarin, judge of
the Court Of Cessation. Il member Of
the Legion OF Honor. and many liter
AIRY and scientific societies of France,
fled to Switzerland and afterward to
this country during tie reign of terror.
While he was in the United States me
spent his time in New York teaching
French and music. 1t is said that
once while ne was listening to Jeffer-
son. who was his guest tell a numoer
of interesting anecdotes about Wash
ingtun and the WIZ. he (Brillat Sa-
varia suddenly became so distracted
that the distinguished American paus-
ed. offended.
.!ardon me. exclaimed Brillat-
SaVarin when h. noticed that his
guest had observed his pertur ton.
but | was thinking how | should
dress my wild turkey" OF his famous
book one might say, as Eillemain said
of the Lettres Persianes" of Montes-
quiz. that it is ono of the most pro-
found of frivolous books 1t is at
once the guide, the philosopher and the
friend of the true gourmet. Most of
the book consists of thirty chapters
called "Meditations, the titles of
which will give some idea OF the broad
field that the sch ,larly author covered
Irst, The SENSES; second, Taste;
third. GAstronomy and the good deeds
that the famous astronomers of tile
world nave done at suggestion for
ar Academic Of astronomers. fourth,
The APpetites; firth. Authorization in
General; sixth. SpeciaIties in Food
including game. fish, etc, seventh,
The Theorv Of Frying; eighth. Thirst
ninth. BeVcl ages; tenth, Episode of the
End % the World; eleventh, German
dlzinS. particularly as Regards Con-
ihgal Happiness; twelfth, Commands
by Predestination. Education. etc
thirteenth, Eprouvettes Gastrono-
miques; fourteenth. Pleasures of the
Table: fifteenth. Hats IN Sporting:
sixteenth, Digestion; seventeenth. Re
pose. eighteenth. Sleep: nineteenth.
Dreams; twentieth. Influence of Diet
on Repose. Sleep and Dreams; twenty
first Obesity; twenty second, Prevent
i've AZ Curative Treatment of Obesity;
tWeniY-third. Leanness; tN enty- fourth.
Fats; tW enty-ffth. Exhaustion; TWEEN
~ sixth Death; twenty seventh. Phil
osophhical History of the Kitchen
twenty eight, Restdurateurs: TWEEN
ty-n:nth, Classical Gastronomy: ttir-
tieth, Gastronomic Mythology"
Those who stuff themselves and
those who get drunk neither know how
to eat or drink" is something that will
b" quoted to those who misunderstood
the purposes of the gasti onome. It'll
neeGs no keen observer to know that
those who suffer from the grossest of
vices, "over feeding" are those who
are generally indifferent to the delica
cl2s of the art of cooking and rush
frorn the extreme of willing starvation
to what can only Re described as Hun
gryman's attack on all sorts of food
the nature and value of which has
never before given them any concern
Little interest attaches today to the
works of Careme, although in his day
he VAS famous, both as an author and
as cook. While he was chef for Tai
lyrand, the emperors of Australia and
Russia, and Rothschid, he wrote many
books, among them being La Maitre
d'hotel francais on Parallele de la-cuise
ancienne ct moderne," his most famous
work, and lie Patissier picturesque"
but it is to Lady Morgan that we owe
the most graphic description of the
emotions of one who was intimate with
his art.
She was dining at the Baron Roth
schild's villa when Careme was then
chief cook.
ITO do Justice to the science and re-
search Of dinner so served would
only require a knowledge of the art
equal to that which produced it; its
character however WAS that 1T WAS in