Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1911-08-16
IN THE WORLD OF FASHION
BY Maude Griffin

able changes in details.
And some new skirts. In fact, II Il
the question Of skirts that is agitating
the world of fashion. Authorities are
about equally divided, declaring
against and for the skirt with broken
line. AS a result the woman who is
looking for the very newest thing pos
sible to spring upon her vigilant sis
ters and neighbors will have to study
conditions carefully and weigh things
prayerfully before making an invest
ment.
Some of the new skirts are frilled
and some are founced. Some are
trimmed with deep folds to simulate
frills and flounces and some are hung
perfectly straight with more sugges-
ton OF fullness than has been noticed
for the past few seasons. AS a matter
of fact, however, there Is but little ad.
ditional width to the latest skirts.
Materials. too, are subject of
grave consideration, but so far nothing
startling has been produced. Soft, lus-
trous fabrics are still the order of the
day, and will be in greater demand
than ever for the winter gown, be-
cause the new broadcloths have a
higher finish than ever, while there Is
a threatened return of the very expen-
sive panne velvets of exquisite men,
DRY.
Very heavy satins and silks for tar.
lored frocks are shown in all of the
smart shops, their greatest claim to
distinction being in their increased
width. The satin broadcloths are ex-
ceptionally wide and one would never
think of having more than two widths,
II quite so much, in fashionable
skirt, with all of the pretense that is
made of full effect and fussiness.
None of the new modes that have
been presented, however, show OFF TO
better advantage than the skirt with
the straight, graceful tunic II affords
splendid opportunity for the use of the
splendid laces which are coming in
with such furore that one might well
be excused for thinking that they are
something entirely new. 1t is the
vogue for frills, jabots, ruchiDgs, etc,
that has created this new demand for
laces of all kinds, with the lead still
being taken by crochet, Venise and the
splendid Cluny effects.
Then the great collar taking on soft
fischu lines opened a way for dainty
lace draperies, just as the tunic sug-
gested underrobes Of lace lightly
yelled, or yelling robes OF tilmy lace
over plain materials. Gradually the
''flou," as they call II in Paris, has as
serted itself more and more, and with
it has come the opportunity of the
laces.
Flounces have invaded the province
OF the plain narrow skirt, demure and
chastened flounces, interfering but lit
tie with the narrowness OF the sill
houette, yet undeniably tlounces, pro
ylding for a hint OF what the French
call Involvement" and lovely when de-
veloped in fine laces. The short
straight tunic placed a way for the
double and triple skirt and II is OF
the double skirt that we must pause
to take notice just now.
In many instances the double effect
Is achieved with a tunic, which hangs
loose OF course. In other skirts just
arrived il is in the form of q very deep
fold. quite as deep as the upper part
of the skirt, and II the material is
striped the band is cut in an opposite
way to emphasize the contrast sim
pie frock that is exceedingly rich in
its general effect shows the double
skirt arrangement, the upper part OF
the model being cut with straight
tunic. which is outlined down one side
with a band of black silk Cluny this
lace extending all the way around the
tunic above the two-inch hem. Above
the hem Of the skirt proper there is
another fold of the lace, stitched on
with very fine black silk soutache, and
the material Is not cut out from under
meath.
The waist is as simple as bodice
could be, having just very large |
sailor collar outlined with lace, the |
lace In this instance. however, being |
stitched on with one row of black and |
one of white silk soutache braid. The |
short sleeves are trimmed in the same |
way, and there is a rather wide girdle
formed of two bands of the lace
stitched together with black and white
silk soutache braid.
A model exploiting the very deep
fold Is in striped satin serge, the
stripes of the fold running around the
figure. The front of the skirt has
narrow panel trimmed on either side
with buttons of plain silk outlined
with a fine cord. The blouse has
military effect in the revers which are
cut crosswise and stitched down per-
fectly fat from neck to waistline.
There are rather close, long sleeves
finished with cuffs of their own mate
rial.
IL is difficult to see one OF the new
skirts that is not trimmed in some
fashion or other, no matter how simple
the decoration. Because lace is to be
so popular the lace braids are in great
vogue and they make splendid add
ton to anOtherwise plain material. In
connection with the talk about frllls
and flounces, 1t may as well be eX-
planned In the beginning that the term
is elastic. 1t embraces everything
from the ruching of half-inch wide
Valenciennes to the knee-deep flounce
and the former, by the way, are set