New-York tribune., 1911-02-26
|z8R2E ASHTON ar'a
Old Modes in Nesv Forms
Ideas Cleaned from All Periods for Costumes
of Smart French Women.

beret Of ancient brocade woven in rose
and silver and trimmed with a cluster Of
gray plumes, among which was twisted a
string of pearls With a scant skirted
gown Of lowered brocaded silk. with a
quaint three scanned, short basqued cor
sage. was worn a Reynolds hat Of "tete de
negre' straw plumed in the same color and
trimmed with silver gallon. With a sweet
costume of old blue meteor crepe was worn
a Mameluke turban of blue tulle spark
ling with bugle embroidery and stately with
a big gray aigrette
These gowns and others worn in this
cortege Of modish French women show the
present tendency to adapt hats and gowns
Of other times to the modes of to-day.
The absurd one-sided effect on gowns
sent out by houses that are usually credited
with better taste should he carefully
avoided by amateurs. While not altogether
villanous, when carefully designed and
carried out there can he nothing TO be said
in favor OF a toilette with one sleeve and
one-haf of a corsage Of quite a different
material and color from the other, and
the result in unskiled hands is depiorable.
The new apron over skirts is easier
handled. With heavy lace and embrod-
cry. bought by the yard. and a few yards
of fine white cotton stuff. pretty up-to-
date costume is easily achieved. The skirt.
Of the thin material, is made short or
trailing little in the back breadth of
the lace, perhaps twenty inches wide and
long enough to fall little below the knees
is draped in front 10 fall perfectly straight
and plain The apron at the back Of the
same width. is longer. falling nearly 10 the
hem Of the understirt. For the finish of
the raw edges OF it nothing is more effect
i've than narrow ribbon of white linen.
and in some cases an inch wide black vel
vet ribbon is used The corsage is all Of
white net or Valencennes lace. and over
il is worn a sleeveless bolero of the lace Of
the apron. If the apron is hemmed with
black the belt or sash is black also; if
with white, the ribbon accessories are Of
plaided or dull toned colors.
\ sweet gown Of white cotton voe en-
broidered all over with small white beads,
had it's overskirt. the short sleeves and the
little bolero edged with little gathered
ruching OF black moussene de sole.
second gown, Of the same material. was
made with a long skirt open in front TO
sweep away from an underskrt Of black
mousseline de sole. There was a wide black
mousseline de sole sash tying in an i'm
mense bow in the back, and long black
sleeves wrinkled over the arms under short
sleeves of the beaded voile. Worn with
wide brimmed black hat wreathed with red
roses, a red parasol and red heeled shoes.
the toilette was extremely smart and
striking
While the minds Of Paris fashion writer's
are filed with the doings of the designers
Of spring and summer gowns winter asserts
itself in the icebound lakes In the parks
and the Grand Canal at Versailles. The
| ice here has been particularly crowded
with skaters during the recent few skating
| DAYS. and at a late tea hour the new
Trianon Hotel at Versailles is gay. Among
the skaters nearly every one wears a cos
| tune of white velvet, serge or granite
cloth when it is not Of black velvet. 80
that IL is only the gayly colored feathers
and velvet roses that adorn the black and
white toques that break the black and
! white. NJ. A. F.