Evening star., 1911-01-29

Nts years. styles ana FASH
ions in wide diversity follow each other
So closely in quick change succession
that the3 hardly give the chronicler OF
fashion time to discover tho good or
bad points OF each.
fhes-clever part OF Il all Is that fash
ION. although so varied and so chang
inF; Is just as fascinating, ana more
50. than ever. For we all know that
freshness is mainly to be found in the
well beaten paths. We don't want any
Fundamental change In our smart little
tailor suits, our dainty frocks, our
pretty blouses, or our picturesque hats.
The big picture hat has another kind
OF plume. a rose of another and O new
er shade posed at a more becoming
angle, a kink that was not there be-
fore in the brim. Indeed, the altera-
uons that have taken place will not
take the fingers OF one hand to num-
ber. There are the shorter coats OF
our tailormades, the revival OF the Jap
anese outline for our corsages, the short
sleeves and the consequently longer
gloves
x&
Many OF the newer hats have very
high crowns and are trimmed with rib
bhAt pohS lo lHttflSlly tH6lI
and throughout the season and well
into the spring we shall see these
nodded over with silk. satin or velvet.
patterned gauzes, etc. lovely hat in
black silk, large, and with a wide brim
faced in velvet. has for trimming =
Iull wreath of roses In duh gold and
silver shades. The eastern type or
turban is Offering itself in all sorts OF
labrics, swirling it's folds In other
ways, and always original and becom-
ing to the right type OF woman. Lovely
in its originality OF design is the latest
type Of this kind, and typfcally Arabian.
A model Of extraordinary beauty is
now on view at one Of our frst-class
milliners in the Rue de la Paix. and
is developed in q deep ocean blue, with
silver threads interviewer. This Is
deftly swathed and knotted at the
front. just like bandana, and the ends.
which are lined with soft, white SILK,
treatment lends 1t a singularly quaint
outline and increases the general be-
comingness to a large degree. Or
course, the turban is not becoming to
woman of fashion may wear both the
very big hat or the very small. TWO
types equally fashionable. yet abb
solutely different. We have our turoan
and our large hat days. and varier.
c'est viyre," as Frencn proverp %
aptly puts It.
Foliage in both natural and unnatural
colorings is being much used by the
Partisan milliners, and feathers OF great
size and consequent Price For the mo
ment-and only for the moment. let Us
hope-our smart millinerD have set their
affections upon those weird ostrich plumee,
which many of us had hoped to nave
seen the last Of These feathers are used
exactly as they have come from the o.
trich. namely, uncurled. quite nat, ond
sirgle. and are very long and SO thin az 10
present almost NANCY appearance Nat
urally, a great many or these ieaLne1t
are needed to trim hat or moderate a.
rnensions, while some OF our monster
chapeaux require a regular shear OF
plunes for trimming. These thin plumes
somehow always remind one OK those
English pictures of 'Arriet after wet
bank holiday.
The one necessity OF every ones word-
robe at the present moment IL undoubt-
etlly a smart coat and skirt costume. and
one model shows a delightful tailor suit
In mouse-gray, satin-faced cloth. and a
short fourreau skirt Of the same nodded
closely to the figure and becomingly
trimmed with silk fringe and with velvet to
match. There is smart tailoring on the
center panel, and the stitched finish OF
the velvet revers and cuffS and the sifnu-
lated pockets. A handsome mum in gui-
pure, trimmed with mouse-gray velvet and
lined with satin OF a matching shade.
forms a fitting accompaniment to this
chic little frock.
A new gown without q becoming hat Is
not TO be thought OF, and the chapeau
which tops this model spells the very last
word i'm the up-to-date. The shape Is a
modified "cloche' in white felt, lined with
gray velvet, with a high Vaiois crown
hidden under a graceful cluster OF long
ostrich feathers.
Dainty neckwear is quite feature Of
charmingly pretty little models are to be
seen. Some of the prettiest are carried
out in white brussels net edged with mar
row yalenciennes lace. The net, very
finely tucked, forms the extremely high
neckband, which is finished at the top by
a killing of lace, and is arranged in front
in a sort of cascade OF little accordion
pleated frills. each edged with vaIen-
ciennes lace.
A fashion which is rapidly gaining
ground in Paris is a real bowtie OF con-
siderable size, made OF beautifully an
broidered muslin, edged with valenciennes
lace and insertion. This bow IL worn
with n simple lawn shirt, and looks won
derfully smarL and pretty.
Il -
In the matter of peltry. French furT1ers
seem to have this season set themselves
the task of excelling, and they certainly
have attained the goal of their ambition.
Every year some new craze arises- This
year the vogue is for ermine or chinchilla-
In a recent visit to a famous furr1er the
writer heard tales OF the travellers who
went to the widest spots on earth to Sc
cure precious peltry. The history OF fur
is quite a romance, from the Armenian N
shepherds, who are such clever patch
workers in fur, to the thousands of work
girls employed throughout the length and
breadth Of the land in its manipulation
etc.
Satin and mousseline de sole viii again
be much worn for evening toilets, as Will
plain tulle, spotted or embroidered, and
various other fancy tulles, and the vogue
for yelling Is maintained. Red Is ire
quently used in combination with purple.
Meile Sorel OF the Comedie Franchise. Is
wearing an example Of this kind In a
lovely toilet in the second act of "On ne
Badine pas Avec rAmour." 1t Is In red
satin with a purple tunic In mousseiine
de sole embroidered In self-colored tones.
into which q note of dead gold has been
introduced. Nothing could be moro deli
cate and graceful, or more expressive OF
toilets of the moment. They are all OF
the most fragile loneliness - biHowy
masses of mouseline or tulle. rioh en-
brodery on the most delicate textures,
gold and silver that lose their freshness
at the first touch Of damp. and lace SO
fine that q hasty movement Will ruin IL.
When velvet Is worn, 1t Is generally la
Josephine, with a real Maimaison rose st
the breast