Semi-weekly herald., 1911-08-14

much of the passing Of this idea, of
the reinstating of heavier materials;
but both dressmakers and customers
have so heartily appreciated the pos
sibilities and results in this yelling
scheme that there seems little danger
that women will be called upon in the
near future to give up their chiffons.
A lightweight full-length coat
has become a necessary adjunct to
the well-dressed woman's wardrobe.
For the auto-trip, travel on the train
or even for days shopping, top
coat that will protect the thin summer
gown is most acceptable. Practically
al! of the new coats are made full
length and are cut on straight lines,
which continue in finished taffeta
and rubberized silk that defy the rain.
The principal mode of trimming is
the large collar. These are of war;
led shapes; the newest have the long
pointed effect; Stimulating hood and
finished off with tassel. There are
also many Charlotte Corday models,
but the sailor collar is still the gen.
eral favorite. Some of the coats
show the shortened waist line. Some
are cut with the separate skirt and
waist, joined q few inches above the
waist line, while on others the modi-
fled empire effect is obtained by the
use of wide belt or by means of
trimming or buttons.
Peasant sleeves are noticed on many
Of the models, and usually finished
with deep cuff matching the trim
ming on the collar. The regulation
coat sleeve is, however, much in evil
dence. These coats are designed for
general utility and can be worn on all
occasions. Goats of lightweight
broadcloth are also used extensively
Velvet, satin, moire and braid are
used for trimming. Great care is
evident in the selection Of buttons
which usually are very large and har-
monize with the coloring of the coat
For example, a pongee coat will carry
gilt or light-brown buttons; red
brown mixture has red buttons; blue
buttons, that exactly match the ma
terial are used on light weight
cloth coat.
Golden brown and tan seem to be
the favorite colors. These are com
bined with contrasting collors in the
trimming. Stripes of black and white
add novel touch to many of the chic
models. Two-inch bands of striped
silks are seen cdging the plain-colored
trimming, and some coats are lined
throughout with narrow striped silk
Cool, comfortable coats and skirts
are being made of the finer, softer
weaves of Shantung silk, chosen in
the natural biscuit shade, and also
of soft satins and a favorite fabric
called "silk-serge," which closely re-
sembles satin merveilleux. A pretty
model is of delft blue satin trimmed
in quite a new way, with long silk
ribbons chosen in darker shade OF
blue. The skirt opens on the left
side in panel effect, revealing a long
end of ribbon, and caught across with
a dull silver button.
Some of the most attractive coat
and dress sets, consisting of sailor
collar and large turn-back cuffs, are
of white mouseeline or plain swiss
, with no further elaboration than the
hemstitched hem. Hemstitching, by
the way, is a favorite feature or
French gowns and accessories of al
most every kind of fabric, and car
, be used with excellent advantage or
neckwear. Where hemstitching can
) not be introduced conveniently, set
in narrow beading is used instead.
: Several types of neckwear are rep
resented in the latest importations
from Paris. Foremost are the sailor
collars. These come in embroidered
: linen and batiste, net and lace, ant
some of them are made of plain white
} material having colored borders
, matching the gowns with which they
are to be worn.
The shawl collar of embroidered
batiste or fine handkerchief liner
finds favor in the eyes of the large
| woman. These are cut like fichu il
front to give shallow V-shapet
| neck. Such a collar with scallopeC
edges is particularly attractive wher
worn with dark-colored gown. Fold
ed back cuffs that match are worr
, with it. A feature of many of the
French sailor collars is the extreme
depth in the back This is a new note
and promises to become very popu.
, lar, especially with tall and stately
women, Of generous proportions.
First and foremost among the
; gowns suitable for summer wear come
J the frocks of cool, pale-tinted linens
since their weight is extremely light
while they are refreshing to the eye
even on the hottest days.
Sleeves of summer gown or blouse
admit of much trimming. Lace in,
sertion, embroidered or lace motifs
insets of both lace and embroidery
with edging on the cuffs, are all cor