The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1911-12-13
NEWS OF INTEREST TO OUR FEMININE READERS
Increase in the
 Variety of Shapes in
 Partisan Millinery

It might have been thought that the selections of shapes made in the first instance were more than suffi- cient to meet the most exacting de- mands. Yet such is not the case. As
 the season advances they grow more and more varied and it is the same with methods, of trimming. Every
 milliner is so intent on putting as
 much novelty as possible into her pro-
 duction that 1t can hardly be said any
 distinct line of fashion is followed at
 all. The public seems perfectly sat-
 isfied with this state of affairs, and
 personal taste and caprice rule trium-
 phant.
 True, we have had no very sensa- tional novelties sprung upon us, and
 many of the additions made to the al-
 ready long list of different styles of hats and toqueS are reviVals from not so far back. The most important of
 these revivals is that of the marquis. This is no servile copy, however, Of the old tricorne. There is the three cornered effect, of course, but 1t is frequently very slightly indicated,
 seldom with mathematical precision,
 and when this is the case, something is always done to mitigate the regu- larity of it's outline.
 A good example of such treatment
 is to be found in a model. which has
 
 black velvet. just high enough to show above the inward curve of brim in soft white felt turned up against 1t. The three upward points of the brim
 are rounded off and the severity of it's outlines moreover mitigated by a
 wide binding of plain ermine. It
 comes well on the head Gas indeed do all shapes this season) and is made to be worn slightly tilted toward the
 right side, so that one of the points is exactly over the right ear. This point is held back to the crown by a large cockade consisting of two flat pleatings of white silk encircling button covered with ernine, from the forward side of which comes little point of the same and three small
 black-tipped tails.
 In larger hats the tricorne effect is less pronounced. For instance, the
 brim of a very large black velvet hat is folded back straight across the front and only a small portion slight
 1y rolled over on the left side of the
 back, the result being a very decided point on each side and merely sketchy one behind. An inch-wide fold of dark blue velvet is mounted on the under side of the brim a little within the edge, and large feather broom aigrette stands erect above the low domed crown. f A very, different arrangement is adopted for another large black vel vet hat. the brim of which, instead of being oval like the foregoing. with the crown in the center, is egg shap- ed. with the crown nearer it's narrow end This juts forward in a point over the right temple of the wearer, it's brim being rolled on both sides so as partially to cover the crown; he wide portion develops its whole width in a curve instead of apo1nt, while it is rolled behind at right to <Ioa cha Ci6 trimming there is a cordon of white curled ostrich sewn to the edge. Var iety is obtained in appliques by us- ing white ostrich mixed with black, gray and sometimes pale pink barbes. Irregular arrangements of this sort are seen mostly on broad hats. Some
 times the back will be turned right up against the crown, and in front
 rolled over above the right or left
 brow, one side dipping down in
 point and the other maintaining it's normal position. One such, covered
 and faced like the former, with black
 velvet. is trimmed with white crosse feathers mounted in the shape of
 Tyre set on the front of the brim. Another revival is that of the beret.
 an attempt to revive which was made last Spring. New we have it in. reg ular ram O'Shanter form-a circular ,iece from 20 to 25 inches in diameter. adhered into band which is worn
 ct rather sideways on the head so as 70 show a segment of the band on the
 eft, the rest setting out so as to make
 ! charming frame to the face and
 ,onselaing the right side and back of
 he head entirely.
 We have seen this in black velvet
 md in sealskfn plush, the band in
 1ach case a broad dull gold gallon, and
 he trimming, a bushy aigrette jut-
 ing out from the band almost hori-
 z0nfallv from it's left side.
 TOqueS are also made out of clrcu-
 ar pieces of much smaller size. But
 his aspect is quite different, as this
 oaterial is pleated so as to form a
 all cylindrical or moderated, low ull crown. It is flat at the top and
 the band round the base is much wid-
 behind and the whole slanting back
 wards. The usual trimmings for these
 tooues is broad band of galon in
 dull gold thread, the rest being seal
 plush or velvet. But I have seen
 glace silks made up in this way with
 moleskin, silver gray velvet with
 band of flamingo, ping and gray plumage, nattier blue with green cocks plumage. or skunk, and of course black velvet with ermine.
 Some of those for evening wear have a trellis fringe of beads sewn to the lower edge of a gilt bandeau and at the back; others have a bandeau of small pearls threaded in a trellis with a cabochon in front. while the touue itself is generally made of gold net or lace. One of these has 8 long paradise tail sweeping right down on to the sheulder.-The Millinery Trade
 Review.