New-York tribune., 1911-03-26


(From a photograph in
No one could feel more strongly the
spell Of the human story, and that spell
she has in turn wrought upon her read
Grs.
The precious gift of tongues belongs
10 this traveller, and in Arab tent or
Mesopotamian village she talked in
friendly wise with the dwellers therein.
Oriental respect for British power and
pugnacity no doubt had something to
do with the safety of her journey among
warning or thieving tribes. but the just,
kind and courageous spirit with which
il is evident that she faced the chances
Of travel, her broad-mindednes and her
sense of humor had even more to do
with il. she was not to be daunted by
difficulties. When the Vail of Aleppo
telegraphed 10 Rakkah that on account
Of the disturbed condition Of the desert
she should not he allowed 10 travel down
the left bank Of the Euphrates. the Eng
lsh lady with perfect politeness and
good humOr explained 10 the local Off
cial that she preferred 10 take that
route. and take il she did. She recounts
the story of her visit TO an Arab en-
Campment in which the desert law of
hospitality insured a freedom from rob-
berry which would not have been at all
certain outside the circle of tents. The
ShGkh Muhammad not only made the
travellers welcome. but guided them for
several days as they went on toward
Khcidir on one of these days there was
an alarm:
We wl.c Jogging along between hum
mOCks OF thorn and scrub. Muhammad as
usual singing. when suddenly ne broke off
al the end of "a COuplet and said:
i sec a hOrseman riding in haste
looked Up ana saw Il man galloplnS
toward us along the top of ridge, ne was
followed closely boy another and yet another,
and all three disappeared as they dipped
down from the high ground. I'm the desert
every newcomer is an enemy tll YOU know
him 20 be q friend Muhammed slipped a
cartridge into his rifle, HuSSeln extracted
his riding stick from the barrel where II
commonly travelled, and J took IeVoINer
out of my holster This done. MuhammaI
gallOyed forward To the top OF mound; |
followed and we watched together the ad-
vance of the three who were rapidly dl-
minishing the space chat lay between us.
Muhammad jumped TO tie ground and
"Dismount," said he. and hold my
mare"
the revolver iu the other. Hussein had
lined up beside me and We two stood per
fectly still while MUhammad advanced
rife in hand his body bent forward IN an
attitude OF strained watchfulness. He
walked slowly, alert ana cautious, Ike
JrOWling animal. The three were armed
and our thoughts ran out 10 a possible
encounter with The Beni HaSSan, who We're
the blood enemies of our companion. IT,
when they reached the top of the ridge in
front Of us they lifted their rifles, Ius-
sein and ] would have time to shoot first
while they steadied their mares. The three
riders topped the ridge and as soon as We
could see their faces Muhammad gave the
salaam: they returned il. and with one
accord we all stood at ease. For If men
give and take the salaam when they are
near enough TO see each others races.
there cannot according 10 the custom or
the desert, he any danger OF attack. The
authors Of this picturesque episode turned
out 10 be three men from RahhahYeh. one
of them had lent a rife 10 the boy who
had guided us and. repcnting of his conf
dcncc. had come after hlm TO make sure
that he did not make off with it. We
pointed out the direction in which he had
gone and turned our horses heads once
more In the direction Of Shetatch.
Lady" said Muhammad reiiectively.
'in the day of raids j do not trust my
mare TO the son OF my uncle and not TO
my own brother. lest they should see the
foe and fear and ride away But 10 YOU |
gave her because / know that the heart Of
the English is strong. They do not flee
God forbid" said I. but my spirit leapt
az the compliment paid 10 my race, how
ever lightly evoked
Sheikh Muhammad, as they rode,
talked of the desert wars and the rules
that govern them. The Arab does not
always 80 out 20 kill; bloOdshed means
feud. and that is uncomfortable. Some
times he goes forth only TO rob. "Then,"
said the sheikh frankly, "if We meet a
few horsemen who try to escape from
us. we pursue, crying. Your mount,
lad" And If they surrender and deliver
20 us their mares their lives are safe
even if they should prove TO be blood
enemies" Marauding Kurds later pro-
vided for Miss Bell the most unpleasant
incident of her journey. They made
stealthy midnight raid upon her en-
campment and disappeared with all her
money and most Of her baggage, includ-
ing her precious notebooks. The gov
crnment officials were energetic and
everything was recovered 1t was a
troublesome episode. but il counted as
nothing against the joys and wonders
Of the journey.
The most memorable Of her eXpe-
rieaccs. she tells us, was the first sight
Of the mighty bulk Of the palace Of
Kheidir or Ukhedir. which almost UNI
touched by time" rises out Of the lonely
sands Within these walls, which in all
probability antedate the Mahometan
CONQUEST, lived twenty Arab families OF
to-day. and at night the men gathered
ro,pd the hearth in the great vaulted
han and sang their strange nomad
songs. The English lady sat there with
tben and tasted their coffee and