Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1911-09-05


ago made glad the heart of their own
CT Will make that same owner sad if
she examines them closely. Nevcrthe-
less. she should muster every atom Of
moral courage and face the sartorial
situation bravely if she would not give
her dearest foes pegs uFon which TO
hang criticisms Of her clothes, for I'M
deniably an air OF general untidiness is
produced solely by the frayed edge Of a
skirt or by a wilted suimpe. Forum
ately. the frazzled hem of a satin. wolfe
or shot taffeta gown may be hidden
beneath a piped. or pl5in banding of a
matching or a contrasting material and
a new guimpe will freshen the bodice,
hut if demi- toilette-the French name
for the American utility costume Of the
woman Of moderate means-haS been
badly torn or stained. then it must be
practically made over and in the re-
making should be brought up to date.
Since early spring skirts have gradu-
ally grown into really sane-looking af-
fairs. consisting Of more than two
widths OF material and measuring full
~ two yards about the feet Broadly
speaking. the skirts of all demi-tOiettes
designed for either the street or for the
house barely escape the ground or the
floor as the case may be. and some few
Of them drag thereon. but only occa-
sionally is a train seen and that train
nearly always is square of cut The
new skirt is not easily turned out for
the broad inside belt must be perfectly
fitted to the figure and the material
which is hung from the top edge Of it
must be arranged in the requisite
amount of fullness. particularly at the
hack. without destroying the straight
line effect which is the salient feature
OF the smart costume. once in blue
moon a skirt is made without this
short WASTED belt. hut It is because the
wearer is a misguided person who in
sists upon exhibiting her hips.
Voiles de sole and soft Gatins are the
two popular fabrics for the waning
summer costumes which will prove
equally serviceable during the winter
if the owner Of it suddenly finds herself
financially embarrassed. for Dame
Fashion is no respeCter or seasons and
wears any material she fanCics when
ever she wishes to do so. She is quite
as likely to wear furs i'm August as she
is to don chiffon in January. and what
man shall dare to say her nay? Both
the brand new and the made over
gowns Of satin or wolfe de sole in black.
brown. sage green or navy blue are put
on in one piece. although the skirt is
built separately from the bodice which
has the newest development Of the XII
mono idea-the sleeve applied fatty to
the edge Of the arm-eye and distinctly
stitched on to il instead Of being cut
in-one with the body Of the garment.
This produces the long. dropping Shout
der and accOrds perfectly with the fl
chu or pointed drapings Of the loosely
fitting fronts Of the blouse.
The wholesome use Of fringes is an
Indication that clinging effects are to
continue the vogue for months to come,
for when such trimmings edge ruffles
and flOunces il is obvious that those
Fittings cannot be of the stick-out type.
but perforce must droop demurely
against the skirt of the tunic Long
fringes a-plenty are used. but so are
the shorter ones and of late the quar-
ter-inch strands Of stubby grass-like.
crinkly silk are being put on the bot
tom of house skirts, thus giving a
frilly appearance about the feet that
is pleasing to every truly feminine fol-
lower of fashion.
The reign of the tunic is not to be
disputed. 1t is on nearly every demi-
toilette and il is of every conceivable
length and shape and the license which
Dame Fashion takes with every type Of
garment which she stamps with her ap-
prevail is responsible for these differ
ences. All Of these tunics are graceful
and most Of them are becoming to the
figure, but the nearest resemblance to
the Greek garment is The very practical
model which shows a short sieeveed.
round necked and narrow. straight
skirted slip Of sole or rlarquisette or
silk wolfe. The woman who must needs
Turkish IN a gown for various demi-
formal occasions will instantly appre-
ciate the advantage Of having a de-
fective slip whereas the one worn be
meath knee-length tunic must neces-
sarily be in first class condition.
Black velvet. which played so promi-
nent a role in the summer wardrobe,
shows no signs Of retreating from its
strong position. Rather is II on the
offensive and boldly bringing forward
its cOlored allies and in this it is aided
and abetted by the glace OF shot taffe-
tas for il is a new fancy OF fashion
To use hands and applications of vel
vet matching the shade Of the ground
ings Of the shot silks This use OF
colored vclvetS may seem a trifle heavy
for the last weeks Of hot weather. but
then there are cooler days ahead and
for them every woman should he pre-
pared. This crowding Of themselves
ahead Of their rightful season. on the
part Of the COlored velvets, is a help
rather than a detriment to the makers
over Of last springs demi-toilettes. for
they are bringing forward mode often
admired in the fashion magazines Of
thirty years ago, namely the velvet pet
ticoat worn beneath the taffeta or silk
cashmere draperies and the little sleeve
less bolcros, than which no garments
are more coqUettish. Velvet combined
with a tranSpa rpnpv is NOT a novalt,-