The Norfolk weekly news-journal., 1911-02-03
The Well Dressed
WOMAN

gamation is always congenial, for the
fashionable materials are so sheer
and soft that even seven rows of the
trimming add nothing to their bulk.
Then there Is no trimming more
selfsufficient than Is shirring. Ap-
propriate alike for skirt and bodice,
yoke or sleeves, 1t Is quite indepen
dent OF any aid, unless one really
wishes to add more than one form OF
ornamentation to frock. With mid
summer In our midst, as far as the
display OF smart fabrics is concern
ed, there are several smart models
just from Paris that ring in shirring
as their chief decorative scheme.
A notable design-notable for its
simplicity as we'll as it's chic-comes
from one of the fashionable French
winter resorts. 1t is an afternoon
dress of delicate lemon colored chif
fon cloth built over changeable taf
fetas, the foundation combining a
deep orange and pale pink in its col
or scheme. The skirt is narrow, but
there is a suggestion of gauging about
the waist line-slightly above normal
, At the knees there is deep flounce
shirred onto the upper part with a
heading of doubled French net The
stitching of the shirring is disguised
by narrow folds of burnt orange vel
, vet, which affords a striking touch of
contrast to the combination of colors.
In fact, one Of the distinguishing fea-
lures of the model Is the color scheme.
The bodice is out in one piece with
the sleeves, rejecting the popular
| kimono effect and here again the
bands of orange velvet appear, there
being two rows running up to the
bust line at the front, but down to
meet the girdle at back, suggesting
a row of putting, Suggestive decora-
tions, one might call them for want
of a better term, are to play an i'm
portant part in the ornamental
! scheme of spring and summer modes,
/ After all, bands and stitchings of
various kinds are capable of more in.
finite variety of treatment than any
i other decorations and their effective,
ness Is unquestioned When they can
not be applied in the literal sense
then ingenious dressmakers simulate
them with such fine trimmings as pin
| soutache, silk yeining, etc, with an
effect quite as desirable as the bands
themselves. This also holds good in
the case of puffings, for it is an easy
matter to group rows of braid or mar
row bands of silk and velvet to give
them the appearance of independent
applications of putting.
In addition to the shirring the af
ternoon frock in question has the
round neck filed in with a guimpe OF
bebe crochet and undersleeves of the
same handwork stitched upon a back
ground of sheerest linen. There are
so many silk muslins of inexpensive
design and in splendid colorings, that
it is unnecessary to suggest to the
women accustomed to contriving the
possibilities of reproducing this mode
in materials and trimmings easily
within the scope of her dress allow
ance.
Black which has been in demand
is coming back" for street wear
handsome satin and silk finished cloth
in black being employed for simple
street frocks for morning and after
noon wear. There seems to be a gen
eral tendency toward gauging or {
suggestion of fulness of some sor
about the waist line of many sprine
dresses. This note is struck again II
chic design in cachmire de sole, hav
ing the skirt made with tunic which
droops in a directoire point at one
side and trimmed otherwise only will
an ecru guimpe of hand embroidered
batiste.
Striped and moire effects in silks
are worn extensively on the Rivor;
at Palm Beach, Augusta and Aiken
They are trimmed with narrow fold
of corded silk or very lustrous satin
put on with the general idea of pre-
serving the fiat" effect in the deco
rative achievements of the models.
Among the inexpensive cottons. tn,
charm of design and coloring is a
ubiquitour as among the more expen
sive stuffs. Much is done with tn
soft yellow or buff tones combine,
with white which came to the from
last season and are not only chic TO
spring wear, but look cool for sum
mer, even when the fabric has a lii
, tie wool interviewer with silk or lir
en-. The designers have shown a grea
liking for cordure arrangements wit
band of plain color, often black
next to the selvage, with lowered O
other fanciful border above, and som
especially charming things of thi
character are white chiffons of shee
silky cottons with black border, an
above this deep border in jewellik
oriental tones, marvellOusly blende
but not in what we have been accul
toned to call Persian designs.
Many of the new foulards sho'
narrow borders as did the late SCI
son foulards last summer, and ther
are some foulards and crepelike sun
mer silks woven in designs of 42-inc
| squares with the border runnin
around the whole square which al
D stunning in color and design, bl
; would drive an ordinary dressmake
i into green and yellow melanchol.
il ,.nI, 4.