Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-05

mans wordrobe for many years. No
civilian might appear at any formal func-
ton In daylight without 1t and it's in
evitable accompaniment. the top or silk
hat. 80. :.
1t was worn, perforce. by statesmen,
and for half century it has been the de-
less to say. it is impracticable to order
the fashion in mems dress in this work
a-day age of the world to suit the re-
quirements of the sculptors. They are
flowing folds and graceful lines. But
very few men, comparatively are des-
tined to have themselves preserved in
bronze or marble for the admiration of
said, shall a million men go trouserless
that one may appear more graceful in a
bronze blankets?
Nevertheless. the artists and sculptors
published in Rome recently printed a
symposium giving the opinions of thou
sand European artists and sculptors on
the problem Of mems dress. Eight hun
dred and forty of the thousand declared
In favor OF a radical change Curiousiy
enough. great majority Of these pro-
tested most vehemently against the I'M
necessary buttons that adorn the backs
and the sleeves OF mems coats.
The Prince Albert" has disappeared
before the attack Of the now ultar-fash-
ionable morning coat.
The Old-Time The morning coat is
r,%o,,o nothing more or less
than the old-time black
cutaway. It's appeal to the man Of the
hour appears to lie In the fact that it is
an adaptable garment. For informal
wear or for business man may don a
morning coat, wearing with it derby
hat. fold collar, four-in-hand tie and calf
shoes. Then, for formal occasion, the
same coat will do duty. the accessories
being poke or wing collar, an ascot or
a once-over cravat. white stiff shirt and
patent leather shoes, the whole being
surmounted by the silk top hat And
thus Is shattered the tradition of old that,
never. never never would 1t be proper
! for man to wear q derby hat with a
tail coat. The times change and man
ners change with them.
In everyday clothes even the most care
less observer cannot fail to see that
shoulders have gone out Of style. The
same tailors who a few years ago built
out huge extensions, rectangular in form,
| over the sloping shoulders of an anemic
| mollycodd1e. now pinch and pare to give
the square-shouldered athlete the appear
| ance of consumptive in the last stages
Of his dread disease. 1t is English, you
know.
| A distinguished authority on mems
| wearing apparel lately hazarded the pre-
diction that with
Nearing the in five years
British Standard. e"e e,ot the Styles ST., IS
the United States and England would
come to common plane.
| He says that England is toning up and
that America is toning down and that
| within few years nobody will be
able to tell an American-made suit
| from .British-made suit. except
by reason of the fact that Ameri-
cans sew seams that lie fiat. while the
,, British tailor inevitably sews g. seam so
that 1t Will pucker. Whether or not the
puckered seam will become fashionable
in America as a result Of the toning down
! process Is a problem for the future. One
thing seems certain, and that is that the
upon crease down the front of his
| trousers. transparent pretention of
newness that fools nobody and which
keeps some millions of men engaged
daily In hOtSting their pants over their
knees.
Once the tailors and the haberdashers
put over new style that adds to the
comfort Of the male animal 1t is exceed
the universal vogue of the soft Shirt the
knitted necktie and the fold collar. Not
withstanding these facts. it is exceedingly
difficult for the tailors and haberdashers
to change the fashion, since man is SO
!! conservative In his dress. For twenty
years the tailors have been fighting man
fully to introduce the use Of colored fab
rics for evening wear for gentlemen, but,
alas, gentlemen still prefer to put on the
uniform Of a waiter when they dress up.
The Partisan tailors, taking advantage
of the death of Edward VII and the nom
sartorical reign of
Aim of Partisan George v. are endeav-
Tailors. par,s 80 .,s es oan;.a'
Of mems styles as 1t Is already OF wona-
ems At the opera In Paris few weeks
ago the audience was RECALLED by the sight
of a half dozen male tailor's models at
tired in clothes of the period Of 1880.
1t is the intention of these Partisan tar
lors to bring men back to the period Of
Louis PHILIPPE as they have already
brought women back to the days of the
directory and the empire. These models
wore bell-shaped hats of fuzzy beaver
blue coats cut swallow-tail and adorned
with brass buttons, buff trousers cut skin
tight with straps under, the shoes. With
few stars and stripes, they would have
hoon So. many Uncle Sams EQ,,f vat