Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-08-06

black ard white checked worsted that is
crisp and fresh in pattern and texture.
fhe coat Is EoNy doub:t breasted af-
fair falling just to the hips. md though
collar and lnpels are mannish In style.
the sty.e Is much exaggerated and the
wide lapels turn baci, to O. point below
the watet lire. where the coat c'oses with
two big black wood buttons with rims
Of wtite These buttons are matched
with mates thai ecceatrate the double
breasted effect. end smaller buttons of
the same kind are used with black braid
loops en- the outside o: the close man
nish sleeve and the pocket flaps The
skirt g ne-rec:ly strei~h+. though wide
enoueh fo- easy 200. movement. and
1t is brttoneo all the way down one side
of the front with the la-ee black and
white buttons. the lowest button being
couuett'shlv left u1fastene6 in accord
ance with the craze for s'ashed effects
In contrast with this picturesque mar
nish" Po.-et suit is anot,e- Poiret model
of tobacco brown ser"e which reveals the
figure lines more def2itely tan tailored
coats have for some years. Indeed. this
semi-Htted effect is cna of the striking
features oe fall tailored wear. both Eng
lish ard French. The ba like coat over
pipestern skirt is vanishing. and as
skirts crow a bit wider coats are I'M
doubted,y growing tighter. This tobacco
skirt has slot" seam. as 6ressmakers
call il. down ore cioe OF the front which
suggests thn ire-:-ab'e slcsh The coat
is a gey little affair. rather short in the
waist in the bac'- and With two slotted
seams running 6c-n from big brown
wood pu-tcns set a. tie back Of the
high was. ire.
THIS s,::t is illustrated ard it viii. be
noted ,--s- the slot scans are used not
only uo and down. BIZ. crosswise on
skirt and coat, the TRANSVERSE lines
breaking the long lines with very smart
effect. There is gay little collar OF
golden brown silk embroidered in mus
terd yellow and the coat has a lining OF
mustard yellow satin.
Many SURPRISING color touches may he
looked for this sea son. for all the world
IS colcr mad. Mourning has been drop-
ped In the English court. and the talk
ing everything East Indian into Prom
inence. The new colors are oriental
TIL the soft vet wonderfully rich and
pleasing East Indian hues. quite different
from the crude yel.cws. reds and blues
OF other oriental countries
In conservative tailored suits for first
street wear these East Indian touches
will make themselves manifest in collar
and cuff trimmings and rich Innings. but
some OF the handsome tailored costumes
with deep collars, contrasting petticoats
ana even krotted sashes. More of this
will appear later and many surprises are
waiting along this East Indian path
which has suddenly branched off from
the main line of fashions progress from
empire to restoration styles.
delightful little suit. designed by
Beschoff David and ordered for a Sep
TENDER bride, has very little of the
tailored" severity of type, but is so pretty
that it's description must be tucked in
here. The coat is a gay little affair of
blue taffeta, which opens low and is
fastened with black cord loops. There is
deep shawl collar of blue silk striped
with narrow lines of white, and this silk
forms the straight skirt slashed at the
instep and held together with cord loops
matching those on the coat. The plain
ness Of the skirt is broken by a long
panel sash of the blue taffeta at front
and back These hanging panels have
proved so satisfactory that they have
been adopted for winter use by the de-
sgners, and the back panel has been
supplemented with one in front. How
these swinging panels will look when the
brisk fall winds begin to snatch at them
is a question, but while one stands still
course. heavy weights will be used to
keep the swinging ends of fabric in posi-
ton. One of the prettiest suits Illus
trated has one of these front panels This
suit, which was made by an authoritative
New York tailor. is of black broadcloth,
and the lines are superb. the skirt hang
ing without flare and mea surfing two and
three-fourths yards around the bottom
and the graceful thirty-inch coat having a
slightly semi-fitted effect at the back.
The collar of black and white velours
with outside bands CT black velvet is
especially graceful and decorative.
Paquin adores the swinging skirt panels,
and from this always satisfactory cou-
turier comes most attractive little fall
suit which has the conservatism Of Eng
lish ideals with all the coquetry and grace
of the French. The material is blue mo-
hair-a most satisfactory fabric for the
tall tailored suit, which must look smart
and autumn-like yet must be worn
through the warm days which come in
October and early November. The feature
Of this suit is the stitching, done with
coronation red floss in a heavy chain
stitch. which looks like coarse embroidery,
though, of course, the work is done by
machine The heavy chain stitching In
outline effects and shaped motifs prom
Uses to be feature of high-ciass tailored