Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1911-10-25
FRANCIS, TAILOR TO ROYALTY.
The Quiet Gowns He Makes and the
Smarter Ones He Shows for
Smart Enlk

Francis has been considered for so
long the tailor of royalty that one
| does not expect to see, at his house.
the eccentric things shown elsewhere.
He does not go in for anything that
savors of the bizarre or the grotesque.
If he makes divided skirt, which all
the tailors now make without thought
of its being immodest. it is so ar
ranged that the division is invisible
His skirts are never too narrow for
comfort and his coats are never too
short for the figure. 1t is because of
this standard that he set and remains
true to, that conservative women go
to him from all over Europe. and each
house brings back his model for GUS
toners who will not take up fash
ionable caprices
OF course, the very snappy woman
who wants To look fashionably dressed,
does not care for his clothes; she al
ways quotes the fact that he makes
for royalty, especially the Queen of
England, and that no women are so
unattractively dressed as these same
crowned heads. There is no use deny
ing that female royalty in Europe
does not set an example of good
dressing; one has to look to the
young crown princess of Germany to
carry off the honors, for even the
queen of Spain, with all her French
shopping, never seems to be smartly
frocked.
This is not the fault of Francis,
however. for he can make clothes in
any way one wants them, but his il
lustrious patrons do not give him
credit. Americans. and the English
as well. always insist that Francis
shall not give them the kind of
clothes that he gives royalty, but
that he will use his excellent meth
cd of cutting and fitting to better
on their figures.
His clientele is a distinguished one |
outside of royalty, for there is wide |
and strong class of women who are
opposed to the present style |
of dressing and are setting their faces |
against it. These women consider |
Francis the chiefest of French tail
ors to help them set an example.
His rooms are quiet and demure. |
He makes no dramatic showing of |
his gowns. His mannequins are quiet
looking girls who, least of all the |
in Paris. affect the man
nerisms and affectation of their class.
The materials he used are wonder
fully good and have the reputation of |
lasting forever and day. He uses a
great deal of serge, cheviot, English
tweed and homespun, as we'll as
heavy cloth. He did not take upl
ratine with any enthusiasm, although
Dne saw little else at the other
houses.
He has a gray cloth suit there that
was very attractive, with a skirt cut
up in the front on round line, I'm
stead Of bias one, and filled in with
/ panel of embroidery done in heavy
self colored floss.
The coat was slightly gathered at
he waist line under a thick cord. was
/ trifle shorter than many of the
others, and was finished with great
revers. The blouse was
new with its long
shoulder line. which brought the arm
lole two inches below the normal, and
Us lull SdlltItu Sleeve, WHICH Was
brought into a tight cuff. n
This bodice was made of gray lace III
,ver silver lace and touched off with III
iplashes of silver and cut steel en- n
,roidery. 1t was copied by the house n
n black, i'm white, in raspberry red Ri
md in blue II was such a differ III
mt kind of blouse from anything that (:
We have been wearing that it looked III
Llmost old fashioned. but we were
veil aware that it struck the new d
tote in clothes. u
If a conservative house like Francis
axes up the long shoulder line with
hat ugly armhole a quarter of the
way between the shoulder and the
lbow, then it looks very much like
We were in for it, and nearly all his
,louses were fashioned i'm that man
Ter.
He did not show any kimono
leeves, and, in truth, / don't think he
lad any short sleeves except in an
elaborate afternoon gown. All his
leeves were large and long. They
lid not over smack of the directoire III
" fitting the arm tightly and hav-
ng a strip of another color up the
Jack They were frankly the sleeves