The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, 1911-01-08
SCALER Of Mt.
NJ 'k|NLEY HERE
Carries With Him Proofs of
Climb That Has Become
WOrId-FamOus.
SAYS NOBODY TAKES
DIR. COOK SERIOUSLY
Lloyd Tells ModestIy of Plant
ing U. S. Flag OH Highest
Point of Mount.

reach the highest point of Mt Nc
Kinley, that seemingly inaccessible
summit of America s mountain peaks,
is in Salt Lake.
Lloyd carries with him the sworn af-
fdavit Of himself and his three com
panions to substantiate his claim TO an
ascent that has become world famous,
being brought into the limclight by the
claims Of DR.. Cook to this honor and
the futile effort OF the Parker expedi-
tion to reach the summit from the south
side during the summer months.
Lloyd, who Is typical westerner,
was averse to talking when found at
the Cullen hotel, but after being pressed
for n statement, said enough to con
vince a fair minded investigator that
he is honest, sincere, knows the coun-
try of which he speaks. and is not the
mar to give up an object in view so
long as life, strength and intelligence
remain with him.
we started TO climb Mt. Mckinley
and we did it, Lloyd said. "Wheu
start for some place j am in the La bit
Of getting there. "
Credit Due Companions.
But if you are going to say any
thing at all about this continued the
mountain climber, "don 1 give me all.
or even the principal share, of the
credit That is due my companions.
They were younger men, who knew the
country even better than / do and |
could not have made the climb with
out them. Had they been less exper
fenced. less fearless, less Injured TO the
hardshlpS of the journey the expedition
would certainly have resulted in fail
ure. Thanks to them, it was an un-
doubted success and here is one of the
proofs -
Lloyd produced an affidavit under
date OF June II, 1910, signed by him
self, Peter Anderson, Charles McGon-
agale and w. r. Taylor. setting out that
on the 3rd day of April, 1910, they
reached the highest point on the north
peak of Mt. Mckinley at the hour of
1925 clock on the afternoon and plant
ed on that summit flag of the United
States of America, attached to pole
twenty feet high, held in position by
monument of stone.
No one who knows the members of
the party personally doubts any state
ment contained in that affidavit, ~
stated Lloyd, positively. ''There are
plenty Of wealthy men In Alaska to-
day to back our claims with any
amount of money and it is also fact
that the flag we planted has been seen
by scores of explorers who have APP
preached to within eight or ten miles
of the summit, -
How about Doctor Cook g claims sD
Lloyd was asked.
shall say nothing about that No
body takes Doctor Cook seriously. It
is like his claim to discovering the
north pole"
Gould Repeat Feat.
Lloyd does not hold to the opinion
that he and his men accomplished the
seemingly impossible.
''The Parker expedition took the
wrong route at the wrong season of the
year, Lloyd declared. "Half dozen
or ten picked men, who know the coun-
try, who choose the right route, who
know how to care for themselves in the
face of the privations that must come,
and who wait for favorable weather
conditions, could accomplish the ascent
without excessive danger.
81 do not claim the accomplishment
of anything that entities me to world
wide fame. Other men can do the
same thing. others doubtless will do it.
The essentials are knowledge of the
gerous peaks of that region, ability TO
withstand hardships and careful prep
aration.'
Motive for the Climb.
How did you come to make the
climb'" was the next direct question.
1t was while the claims of Doctor
Cook were being discussed that the
idea grew. The Pioneers of Alaska and
the Arctic Brotherhood have 'igloos in
Fairbanks. At a meeting of the pio-
neers l stated that the ascent could be
made, and w. II. McPhee, Il wealthy
Alaska pioneer; Gus Peterson, "a min
big business man of Fairbanks, who
came from Chicago, offered TO pay the
expenses of the expedition and let me
pick the men.
81 chose w. r. TAYLOR, my partner
in the mining business, a man who
knows the whole northwest; Peter An
derson and Charles McGonagale, men
who work for me and who are hardy,
trained mountaineers.
How Climb Was Made,
I'VE started from Fairbanks late in
January. The first $50 miles OF the jour-
ney was nothing. just the same kind OF a
trlp with dogs and slcdgcS as made by
hundreds. II was the last stages OF the
journey that tried the mettIe OF ali OF us.
Our knowledge OF the country told us
that II was impossible to ascend from
the south side. The slope is too nearly
east, crossed OYER the south ridge OF the
Peak and then went back again nearly
north 10 the highest portion Of the north
peak. which Is the highest part OF the
mountain. although the difference be.
twecn the peaks IL not great.
Il have no words 10 tell either OF the
hardships OF that Journey or OF the Won
ders. beauty and grandeur OF the seen
cry. i am not a writer and cannot use
fine language. but do know that not one
man OF tha party lost hope or had any
thought of giving up until success was
at hand. And the dag we planted still
stands. or. at least. II was standing last
October"
Hardships OF Journey.
Questioned as To- his experiences In
said:
I'VE took tho difficulties as u matter OF
course. No one expected a picnic trip.
AS we made the first ascent across the
lower portion OF the north ridge from the
east. tho great difficulty was with the
crevasses- These arc hundreds OF feet
deep, sometimes miles I'm length and OF
varying width. To cross one OF these
journey OF miles was often required