New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-10-22

so slow they are imperceptible to the I'M
ttiated-the modes are moving toward much
wider skirts. fuller sleeves and the more
involved trimmings OF frills ilOunces, shirrs
and ruchings that have luttered for the
last several seasons on the dim horizon.
This frivolity OF huffiness is likely, how
ever 20 confne itself 10 indoor gowning
For the present. and the near future, the
mowers OF fashion seem 20 prefer that
tailored GOWNS and dresses, built especially
for street and calling wear, shall preserve
70 some degree at least, their classic sim
nli-itv. Coats are OF moderate length, and
while skirts are decidedly fuller, the close
effect is retained.
Materials are Of great costliness and the
tendency is always 10 make them more So
70 that IS possible. Soft cloths, fine vel
vets-so soft and fine they are absolutely
trcrushable-heavy silks, heavy in appear
arco only. so cleverly are they woven. and
cotton velvets. especially in white, are the
desired fabrics This last material. IN spite
~ IT'S plebelan name. is chic TO the last de-
gree II is charmingly used for evening
roUring under q dark transparency, all
dragged into graceful folds by the clinging
quality of the soft velvety surface
The little, dresses Of the time Of Louis
WI so popular I'm Paris during the last
vcsr continue TO assert their undoubted
charm. Carried out in soft. changeaole
tafetas. trimmed only with the same SILK
and worn with white accessories, they
should be easily achieved by the least com
reteut of the little dressmakcrs' VINO
abound I'm every quarter.
The daring color combinations so promi-
rent among the materials prepared for this
seasons wear are carefully confined 10
toilets for evening wear ard COR tea
Cowns which arc more popular this season
than has been the case for several years
III these directions the apostles Of color are
allowed fun sway a quite contrary atti-
tude Is observed in the makeup Of street
gcwrinr. Hero sombre colorings prevail.
mostly black. blue-so dark it is nearly
bIack-ard darkest taupe color These are
ngttered by beautiful silk Innings or with
trimmings Of the light reverse side Of the
dark material and fur-always fur-plays
a strong part I'm the decoration.
Fur has so advanced in price that every
sort Of an animal even the nearest. is
called upon TO contribute IT'S coat to en-
rich the wardrobes Of fashionable women.
and these common furs are dyed any color
desired. II is probably owing 10 the high
price Of even the ordinary sIrs that the
old-fashioned. heavy plush OF long ago has
returned 10 favor and 20 success, a success
deserved. In its soft richness Of texture IL
is quite as handsome in general appear
ance as the FUR 10 is intended 20 replace IN
the making of long coats.
Two and even three different materials.
generally OF the same color, are used In
the makeup Of street costumes a pretty
example OF this was noted in a costume
worn last race dav LOngChamps nothing
could be more gracious. more youthful
more Partisan than this little costume Of
dark blue serge. with its little Overskirt,
closing under small velvet-covered buttons
directly I'm front. its edges lightly scanoped.
over an underskirt OF dark blue,velvet. The
lalf-lOng coat, tapping below the bust 10
close IN a diagonal line under a few but
tons. was scalloped to match. Lace irii!s
fell from under the tight coat sleeves. and
the severely tailored coat collar was half
hidden under O lace friI 10 match. As ei-
fecuvelv simple was a toilet Of quite
different order-a dress costume, made OF
tsupe colored meteor crepe. Above a tiny
pointed train. that dragged only a few
inches soft swathing folds of the material.
edged with heavy chenille fringe. shaped an
oyerskirt Back and front il was pulled Ip
on o. the tulle corsage into the shape Of "A
pointed -IN'e, anu '7''',' -,
20 ll"'1-.' WIG" 1topp'N ga. 'o'.7
Gnu IT'D ".. MN VI ''7 M.
Oh" '''- snu ~, - 80. -
,.-,.'.... -. ,,..y.i,. min,
giad into a dun harmonr
H-'.N .'.-'."' -"-' "''''
"'''..l WROUGHT lh 'oa' 80 '". 7a'S o. va
"'.....-a- .-| eI'-''' ''i''' VIM '.''''S
"A@ "' 7o'e- -4ucn "I''e anu o'eh ''-i.,'
'..''.-.N 0''' 9o'''V ., ~.
60 - - ~. -. -
-. - IT,
- 49,. - .., ,-e
-. -.
4''.'. '1' 81
." '' ''''''' '''
lS'' TOT '"e "Fe'pTesS' AKA" '.'e '"'e ''''''
'e Whle' covered WIZ o. DiaSh u'1NSpd'-
thc>. Inc crIA Oh 'n-s costume Is IN the
oeit Nhi3" ana ih' Color employ eu !" 'I
wac" 'i' p''s'", '"S'o'- o- ''''-''7 ''''
N'I u o- "'" ''' '. 'S an e.o"o'', ~ IAN,
inc "hite Ia'' trimmed or emoiolueTeo
gown OF iast summer ana cover '' WIN
long oelled lanle OF TWO 'oIoIs OIL 'ullv,
h-ns one over me olher' each one lIliiiiL7u
ar the hem with fringe 70 match. IAe uh-
der tunic should Dee ever so little longer than
With these gowns is the wearing of an inch