Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-01

VHE thirteenth annual automobile
salon OF the Automobile Club
de France Is now in full swing
and Is the most resplenden;
show OF costumes that Paris
mas seen this season. Every evening be-
tween and the Grand Palais changes
us character from q wonderful Industrial
exhibition to a fairyland OF rainbow-col-
ored light and the stern business OF the
day gives place to those attentions which
naturally fall to the share OF fair woman
beautifully dressed. The center alley IN n
promenade OF all that 10 latest and rfchea
In fashion. On the stands, some of which
nre furnished like drawing rooms. rrvups
OF pretty women in marvellous toilets
hold their court and show to great i'd
vantage the latest creations OF THAR
dressmakers.
AT the "vernissage" Cthe opening day).
winch took place Saturday last. the writ
er noticed q number Of tailormsde suits
IN navy blue. gray and all the fashionable
shaAes. especially those known a. 'pous-
sleie. tabac d'orient," pearl gray"
Enyrtle green" purple. and all variety Of
dence. trimmed with handsome furs. An
l0cn-gray dress of this style, the Jacket
without revers, closing quite high, with
large passSmenterie buttons. the narrow
wide black silk braid and edged with
opossum, was really very smart and in
excellent taste. Another dress which at
tracted attention was in navy blue serge
win black velvet sailor collar. In the
oack was strap set very high SLIGHTLY
MODIFYING the fuIlness of the jacket. A
very dressy costume was composed Of
striped gray on black velvet. with large
draped revers. The collar of light Iaven-
der embroidery, lent q brilliant touch and
1t was finished or with an astrakhan
kailoon. With these were worn felt hats
In black and white or gray or brown.
TO some OF the white felt hats q touch
or eoberness was given by masses OF
black aigrets and plumes or by flowers in
all the varying shades Of the modieh
violet color. Such hats, trimmed with
mauve or iris flowers piled high in g1gan-
tic lunches. were worn with great dis
tinction and grace by some we'll known
women present. These enormous flowers
pansies. violets. trises, white lilies. ne
impossible though enchanting colors, and
SO on-are now much In favor and will be
seen throughout the season, but in more
somber tints. harmonizing with the moods
and lenses Of the weather
All that glitters will be much I'm evil
dence this winter in millinery, and some
mats and toQues are exquisite, made in
SOLO and silver metallic tissues. A love-
~ toQue worn at the Palais de Giace yes
lerday was success. In gold tissue.
smartly aigretted at the side, this glitter
ing chapeau was amazingly chic. and ad-
'nirably suited the blonde beauty of the
Wearer.
Soutache is still the trimming a In
mode. We shall see It a great deal dur
ing the winter season. as It viii be more
Prominent on our warm and comfortable
costumes used in conjunction with beauti-
lul and heavy passementerie. Thread lace
lsili also be seen. but it will be dyed to
match the toilet, In fawn, violet old rose
pastel blue, etc
ho nlfn
rogue with empire effects this season.
attention will be given to ''la Hene" and
me slim silhouette will predominant
Whatever may have been said about the
new modes. the appearance of the latest
models this winter clearly indicates that
skirts VIII not DE much wider than those
or the summer. but minus the ugly en-.
trave bindings. It is to be hoped that We
nave seen the last OF this ridiculous and
ugly fashion. Draped dresses have a
marked tendency to be fastened quite at
the back. and sometimes. in contradtc-
ton, quite in front. For example, a rose
embroidered In purple and rose-tinted
beads, three-Quarter-length in front, had
all Its folds carried in the back, becom-
ing long enough to almost cover its mar
row pointed train.
The absolute simplicity Of many mod
els turned out by leading French houses
is most encouraging to those who must
nave frocks made at home. The simple
ices are prominent features of today's
STYLES, and are easily copied by the girl
with nimble fingers and good pattern
to help her along. The house frock offers
immense possibilities TO the girl on her
own allowance. A gown of this kind
can be very smart, and of the simplest
materials, provided it has a style of its
own. Such a gown would also depend
largely upon the color scheme adopted
for its success. A period frock can al
ways be relied upon to look charming
1t gives one also an opportunity of be-
ing picturesque. \ Gainsborough, Rom
ney, directoire frock is easy to con-
trive; the Japanese style appeals to some
of us, while for the girl who wishes to
be In the first flight of fashion and very
1917 we have the popular ''Noah's ark
silhouette.
Should a period frock be selected for
making up at home. nothing is prettier
than soft cashmere or velveteen or
lovely coloring, or an all-black gown
made OH empire lines. Have long and
plain skirt lying on the floor all round.
Short skirts are smart for young girls.
and for outdoor wear But can anything
lend more charm to the demeanor OF a
woman than a long, supple gown falling
in graceful folds around her? Make the
skirt without lining, and have a little
simple corsage without shoulder seams
skilfully pulled in by a silver or gold
ceinture and completed with a dainty lit
tles turnover collar i'm muslin or old lace
and with cuffs t. match, and you have -
little get-up " hich is i'm excellent taste.
A fine henSii. l"d handkerchief can be
cut up to form collar and cuffs. and the
former finished with q smart black satin
bow.
Another scheme for an indoor gown il
a two-toned color combination of pearl
gray and silver, the foundation a satin
slip reaching all the way to the floor,
and the tunic in silver gray net. The cor
sage, in gray satin yelled in silvertgray
net. is cut round and fastens behind. The
waist is cut high in the directoire fash
ion. and has for ceinture a silver cortf
with long ends and tassels, a narrow
edging of the same cord forming the gar
niture for the neck and sleeves. "A de-
tacha5Ie guimpe could be fashioned In
ret embroidered in silver, should the low
necked coIsage not be needed but care
must be taken that this neckmSckN cor
rectly made. otherwise it will never be
satisfactory in fit. Five celluloid bones
sin; 10 he Used for the collar, two in
fro one at ZACH side and one at the
back. 1t i, a good plan to have a variety
of these little chemsettes, which change
a gown in a moment from a high-necked
TO a low-necked and more dressy affair.