The Washington herald., 1911-06-16

Cairo is going to be in very short
time, the city that gives some idea of the
East and it's ways, the city of color. sun
shine. exquisite skies and atmosphere.
OF old streets. mysterious windows,
mosques and beautiful, tapering minarets,
side by side with palaces. modern hotels,
and all the present age furnishes in the
way of luxury and comfort. Even as
the train draws up at the immense sta
ton the newcomer cannot help but ex-
perience quickening of the pulse, a
feeling that is quite different from the
everyday visit to another town. In the
streets this feeling is intensified. Crowds
everywhere. Possibly nowhere else so
many different nationalities may be seen
In a few minutes. perhaps the Place Of
San Marco at Venice alone excepted.
And the variety in dress! The men in
flowing robes, some white, others black;
many in tussores and coiored silks, with
fine embroidery near the throat.
/ recollect the remark of a fellow
tourist, who complained that II was diff
cult to distinguish the women. So 1t
was, for there were none to be seen.
All men. nothing but men. Only on very
rare occasions does a black draped fig
ure move among them, quiet and with
parts of which are united with curious
metal bar which rests upon the nose.
All Fasteners walk quickly and ST.
lently. But do not be deceived, for
they are ever alert, ever watchful
They seem to be a people anxious
to please. They look cheerful and
industrious as they work In their
narrow doorways or alleys, often even
in the middle of the street, at their
various trades. Some OFFER beads-you
are told they are from Italy-and all
sorts of curios, little heather gods. en-
broidery, lovely scarfs and shawls,
worked in silver or gold, or little fly
whisks. They understand English, too,
but mostly use French. when they ad-
dress you: II sell you cheap"
Traffic in the streets is very great.
Electric tramways and omnibuses are
mainly patronized by native women.
but men mostly ride on donkeys, well
groomed and cared for. But there are
any number of smart little carriages,
drawn by two horses and driven well by
Egyptian coachmen in European dress,
but with the inevitable "fez,'
There is much remodeling going on.
and mansions and palaces spring up
rapidly. But by the side of this mod
ern town is old Cairo, teeming with
life still lived amid ancient customs
and the dust and dirt of ages. AS one
drives through those narrow streets,
where almost every paving stone has a
history, children are seen playing in
the dust and mud. quite Indifferent to
the flies that crawl all over their faces
and to the general squalor of their
surroundings. There is said to be a
reason for this. Mothers are so afraid
of the "eviI eye'' that the children are
never washed in the hope that IL VIII
find nothing to attract its gaze. Little
girls often have bright beads and
pieces of metal in their hair to catch
the ''evil eye" first. II it should look
their way. And one sees men with a
suuint or blind eye" a deliberate mu.
tilation in childhood to escape military
service.
There is so much to see around one
that an effort has to be made to begin
in real earnest with the Mosque OF Sui
tan Hassan, near the citadel, and that
of Mohammed Ali. Immediately, one Is
in touch not only with an absorbing
historic interest, but with peace and
restfulness. The simplicity of the Mo-
hammed Ali moscae is striking to de-
gree: subdued light, vastness, room to
think and pray and rest. Surely many
tired passers by are glad to slip into
one of the many mosques with which
Cairo abounds. and find therein the
soothing comfort and refreshment OF
these surroundings.
There is a fine bird's-eye view Of
Cairo, old and new, from the citadel
the desert and the Pyramids of Ghizeh
far away. The Sphinx and the Pyramids
possess a curious fascination-they domi-
nate Cairo; directly they are seen, one
must go to see them closer 1t is the
same with the Nile. The drive to and
fro over the great bridge. the Kasr-el-
Nil, is an event hardly to be matched
In lifetime of travel. Under ME rays
OF tnc setting sun, and under the stars
one is thrilled by the beauty OF these
ancient monuments. The long avenue
of lebbek trees between the Pyramids
and Cairo is very silent at night Camels
loom up suddenly and strangely IN the
darkness. asses, laden with burdens
guided by silent, black figures. seem to
spring up under the feet OF the horses
drawing our carriage. One by one the
lights of Cairo flicker forth in the dark
ness until there are thousands. and
presently great fiashlight-an adver-
acknowledgements across the horizon.
One is sorry to get back to the crowded
thoroughfares after the six-mile drive,
but only for a moment. for all is new,
and there is still so much to see.
Hours seem as seconds in that marvel
Gus city Sunshine and air are so life
giving that physical fatigue does not
exist Only the eyes get tired. sated
with splendor. At bit of rest, and the
faithful dragoman Is ever ready with the
question: Shall we go now to the bazaars?
II we do. We turn our steps toward the
''Mousky.'' / have heard II said that
the bazaars OF Cairo are among the
wonders of the world Well. In man
ne-, they are They are crowded, narrow.
and always in shade. and all the wares
Of the East are to be found there,
brought to Egypt through the desert by
caravans. 1t Is q busy scene.
All the powers of persuasion are
brought to bear on the buyer, The best
chair, often covered with lovely brocsde,
Is brought for lady, and delicious Turks
ish celight offered. For a man cigarettes
are 20 hand Embroideries, jewels, brass,
copper. marvellous scents and so on
When one must so. there are still nov-
elites unshown. and one leaves with
entissng words ringing in ones ears from
the bssistant You come again; give