Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-03-17

French fashion critics predict season
Of fantastic extremes and extrava gances.
and one hears rumors of all kinds of
weird innovations and developments con-
templated by the fashion powers that be,
but certainly the models sent over here
so far are not in any way alarming. On
the contrary, it has been a long time
since so many attractive and possible
frocks have been offered to early buyers.
The tailor modes and the dressy coat
and frock costumes which are appearing
show considerable variety, though among
the palmer makes there is a monotonous
similarity in line. The short, loose coat
of hip length and the short, straight
skirt ranging from two to two and half
yards in width, are the usual things, but
Of course trimming details do give the
models individuality, and occasionally
one sees a definite departure from the
rule.
Short-waisted back effects are common
among the coats the line being usually
defined by trimming rather than by a
distinctly short-waisted cut. and some
times the front, too, shows the shortened
waist line
The fine twill serges in dark blue are
dominant, as they always are in the
spring, and one OF the deepest of these
blues, raven, for example, trimmed in
black braidings and perhaps little black
satin or MORE, is as smart and service
able q first street frOck as one can
choose. Finely woven, firm woolens in
black, with hairlines of white and just a
trace of luster in their surfaces. are be-
ing suits of the more severe tailored
character, and these materials at their
best are easily differentiated from the
cheap black and white stripe woolenS
;ot, $to fo..f, nf
ate priced ready-rnade tailored models are
doing SO much.
A dark blue striped in white hairline
is liked, too, and black serges Of fine
twill and high quality are being used
more than they usually are for spring
trotting suits. Some goOd-looking models
in black serge are enlivened by big. soft
drap ped reverS and sailor collars of striped
black and white silk, the. lustrous back
ground with hairline or narrow white
stripe being rather more chic than the
black and white broader alternating
stripes which threaten to become COM
mon, though they are seen in the collars
and cuffs OF some of the imported suits.
Rougher weaves of the basket, home
spun and tweed sorts are used, chiefly in
mixed colorS and there is a very light
weight Of ratine. One hears great deal
from French sources about a pronounced
revulsion from the black, black and white
and somber tones and the triumph Of
clear and riotOus color.
The movement has gathered force dur
ing the winter. and one sees traces Of it
in the early spring millinery and in some
of the imported frocks' and coats, but it
seems probable that the charm Of the
black and white color scheme will not
lose it's hold upon Americans, even
though Paris 'forswear it, and there
Is pronounced demand for white and
black effects in materials, so the shop
folks say.
Especially are the sheer soft white and
black striped materials being rapidly
bought up, and We shall undoubtedly see
many Of the simple. one-piece frocks in
these materials, which are now so at
tractive among the showings of simple
and moderate priced models. At least
one will have cause to be thankful that
the combination is a restful. cool and
pretty one and that an overdose of it will
not be acutely painful.
Some of the most charming of these
white and black muslin, etamine, wolfe
and chiffon frocks are almost entirely
without trimming. save such as is sup
piled by the material itself used in trans
verse bands, panels, yokes, etc. A dash
of color may be applied in narrow piping
band around the neck and sleeves and in
the buttons or In girdle or a gay chif-
fon collar.
One pretty white and black striped chif-
fon had bordering hens OF chiffon In a
stripe in a very soft, sheer cotton OF some
kind had striking border design of pan
sizes and was girdled about the high
waist line band, four-inch band of
pansy purple velvet tied in square, fiat
bow in front.
A good-looking black and white linen
had it's yoke braided or embroidered in
black and white cord, with touch OF
vivid cerise embroidered i'm the center of
each of the little trefoils with which the
cord ends were finished.
Black and white woolens are almost as
numerous as black and white cottens
Perhaps one ought rather to say white
and black woolens. for reference Is made
to the materials in which white plays the
more imDortant role Serges cheViOtS