New-York tribune., 1911-12-04
Pager Bag Cooking
Means Simple Seasoning
Bv Cooking Foods in Their Own Juices IL
Emphasizes the Fact That Nature Cannot
he Improved Upon.
Nv Martha McCullooh Williams.

Elaborate made dishes always reniino me
60, To nAdgling minister who
had good opinion OF his parts Oh speeO'
,bAra CANA an opportunity TO preach De-
Tore the man reckoned the most eminent
q, .ha denomination So the fiedgling TOOK
o.. ~. .ovt the Creation. and laid himsef
-. g. ,el,,ne about IT, At the end he sent
.t. -. frisnd 10 sound the high authority
S,5,,, the Great Brother think that the
vouprer Brother had accomplished Won
6.rso The High Authority smiled dreamhy
and not unkindly as he replied: he oio
mans work all right-stin, don't think ne
can beat Moses"
Now the cooks who are forever U!lhs
,o Improve on nature might, II seems TO me-
,ate 10 themselves this moral-try as they
NAV tbev can't beat Moses" And not
,he least Of the many merits of paper bag
cooker-y Is its emphasizing of this fact'
pinches Of this, spoonfuls Of that. added
1avors Of all sorts in often oaI aIbarous
combination. may make food taste different
Int rarely better. Paper bag cookery, on
,bA other hand. conserves the natural
,y,css and savors Of foodstuffs, and so re-
ou,res but light seasoning. And who will
denv that natural juices and savors are
more uedllH slNIHS a4-N f@'NN~-~ 1890
srtfAcially acquired Juices and savors?
Take the case Of q so-called melted but
Ger. Ordinarily a mixture OF butter, -four
and water. variously spiced and seasoned
and cooked to q pasty consistency, It must
sice the stomachs that receive 1t a mighty
vrestls. Far otherwise with real melted
hutter-butter pure and simple. mixed only
with the salts and savors Of foodstuffs.
Psper haC cookery makes its own gravy
and supplies this true melted butter II you
give Il the chance.
Wherefore. butter YOUR bags thickly for
oil those things where butter is indicated
add extra butter for the cooking OF meat
and sundrv vegetables, and If more hquld
,s required use either thin stock, milk and
water or plain water. No great amount or
louid is desirable. II IS the paper baS
rrovince 10 cook all manner OF things ten
Der without q hath Of water copious enough
70 give them immunity from taste. That
sort Of immunity bath is as unadvisaole
IN housewifery as in the enforcement or
the law Avoid g. Put in enough, nut
never too much. Thus YOU shall regale
your household with gravy fit not for GODS
but for real men-who, 10 my poor mind'
that ever sat on Olympus. or all the TIN
gods that ever ran on wheels.
This IS not saying that no dish is the
better for a made sauce. Made sauces nave
their use. no less than their abuse. But
the indscrimlnate stopping over Of dish
with a concoction. often lumpy and nearly
always pasty. proclaims a cook whose in
telHrence is either hidebound, or one whose
mind runs in a rut. / wish, then, you
would try once or twice this sort OF melted
butter for either meats or vegetables. Put
the butter in an enamel saucepan, with salt
pepper paprika. the least sprinkle OF hne
herbs and a very little nutmeg. Add half
the butter-bulk Of boiling water. cook to-
sether for FIVE minutes. stirring well, then
put I'm either lemon Juice. claret or sherry
equal in quantity 10 the boiling water and
let stand over hot water until ready 10
serve. Here there is no -four, hence no
paste. and though the butter does not com
bine with the liquids. It mixes with them
sufHciently in dipping IT over the food. For
sucb things as asparagus tips, artichokes
or Young onions. pass grated Parmesan
cheese along with the melted butter
Erinkle Of # gives the last refinement Of
tsvoring.
Z Saes omelets are possible 10 the paper
sgAere follow directions for several sorts
ssrka little out Of the common. All must
{, cooked alike-iu a very well buttered
ag of proper size. set i'm very hot oven
a. frst. and the heat Stacked a third or
ssn a half, after three 10 five minutes
Ifsys room for rising I'm folding over the
tag mouth-but not too much room. In
PAPER bag baking. as IN most other doings
lie thing 10 aim for Is the Irishman S
middle exthrame
Plain Omelet.-This plain omelet can he
'hs foundation Of many other sorts BY
doubling the egg contents and reducing the
milk one-half. II becomes richer and lighter
But fust as given II is fine for breakfast or
luncheon. Begin by beating very light
three eggs. whites and yolks separate ADD
% th4 volks a tablespoonful of -four sifted
WITH half teaspoonful of baking powder
aud half as much salt Melt 4 spoonful OF
butter m . rint of milk. beat IL gradually
INTO the egg and -four mixture-the milk
must b hot. but not boiling then fold IN
lightly the stifly beaten whites, pour into
your bag. seal. put on trivet and cook NJ
teen minutes
'Wcken or Ram 'lNelr'. no ''iN ''0
into chicken omelet add very little more
-four 20 the mixture, then stir in well Just
hetore putting II in the bag cup q colo
chicken minced very fine and seasoned light
lY With onion juice or minced celery. For
ham omelet leave ont half the -four and
scant the allowance Of salt and baking
powder. Water can be used instead of
milk In that case PAT ir more melted but
ter Mince or grind the cooked ham very
6ne and season II with onion Juice and the
barest busting of sugar. not enough 20 taste.
only 70 throw up the piauancy Of the ham.
pvt IN the minced ham before the beaten
whites NIX lightly. put IN 2 well buttered
hsc and bake fifteen minutes