The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1911-08-18
MOTHER
KNOWLEDGE.


Instruction on many of the ques-
tons we are now discussing should be
part OF the curriculum of our normal
schools and female high schools. In
this way the future mothers of the
country would enter into that sacred
relationship with some idea of it's
duties and responsibilities" said DR..
j. H. Mason Knox, Jr.
THE EMPIRE SKIRT.
The most interesting news from
Paris is that we are headed straight
for the empire waist line. We thought
its lasting qualities were slight; we
believed that its endurance was only a
thing of a few months. But we have
not had the normal waist line in style
for a year, and now we are compelled
to believe that we will see ii less than
ever after this month, says Anne Rit-
tenhouse.
Abroad they are making the gowns
with waist lines practically under the
| arms; in fact. they are not waist lines
at all, but a band of trimming run
ming around the figure to divide the
| frock into two parts. 1t is said by
those who know styles over there that
everything will follow this fashion,
whether it is an undergarment or a
| top coat.
Already the loose wraps Of satin,
| which have been so much in fashion
/ for year, have taken on an empire
waist line. This is done in quite an
ingenious manner. There is a yoke
which has kimono or raglan sleeves
| with an extension about three inches
below the arm, to which the scant
lower part of the coat is attached.
The yoke is cut into irregular lines
and sometimes heavily corded to give
a smart appearance; again it is mere
4 ly finished Off with three rows of
stitching. 1t has become quite the
| fashion with all such Jokes to arrange
| the lower edge into battlements, or
| scallops or irregular squares. In the
old days the empire yokes were usual
| ly straight under the arms, but this is
a bit severe in this day of ornamental
slashing.
| All gowns that are important have
the high waist line. It is usually ex-
| aggerated on the evening frocks so
| much that they look like copies of the
ones worn by Mime. Recamier. 1t is
only step from this to the deep de-
colletage of empire days, and the use
/ OF the little puff sleeve. This was
an exceptionally pretty fashion on
young, attractive figures, but it was
not at it's best on those who had not
kept down their flesh and who did not
carry themselves well.
| 1t is no use hunting trouble, how
ever, and IL the absolute empire styles
come in, we will all wear them wheth-
| er or not our figures are formed for
such scanty drapery. Those who have
| looked with a critical eye upon the
| lack of clothes which women have in
dulged in recently may feel that we
can go no further in that direction,
but they need only go back to the days
when the empire fashions were in full
fling among the smart set to see what
really can be done.
| The slim. straight skirt of empire
and directoire days we have had with
4 as for some time We know it very
well now, both its good and it's evil
parts, and we have learned how to cut
IT and how to wear it. Criticism has
died down regarding it, and well il
may, for 1t is an established fashion,
and the world will see a good deal
more of it before it sees less
The high waist has also been with
us, but not to such an extent as Paris
is developing it at present. If we
accept it we will have to learn how
to cut the front seam of the skirt at
the waist line a bit better than we
know now; 1t needs to be curved in to
give an impression of slenderness be-
low the bust to the hips If it does
not have this curve 1t is seriously ugly
and spells the carriage of any woman
| who wears 1t.