Evening journal., 1911-09-02
NEW YORK. Sept. 2.
Jackets and Wraps.

The separate jacket is making as
strong a plea for favor as did tho
the separate waist The latter is as
sured and the former has come to i
stay. Beginning with the little lace
bolero which worked its way from q
waist accessory to a dainty wrap with
its .hrucaded' liuipss, -tlas-Iiext length
. rs the short half-ftted iackeh in EN-
pire or Directoire models, very smart
with big revers. cuffs and buttons
Exquisite little affairs of chiffon show
one color over another, as. for in
stance, French blue over gold. II
warmth is desired. a satin lining is
added. The trimmings are Of bias
satin. All the pale shades are used.
such as corn color. mauve, nile green,
etc. These dressy jackets are worn
now for garden parties and afternoon
fetes. over the sheerest summer cos
tunes. but will obtain for afternoon
receptions in the winter season. es-
pecially for young women. Marquis
cite and other transparent materials
are also used The dowager's hey
day jacket is of point lace or clever
ly wrought imitation over costly
lining
Sumptuous brocades in antique de-
signs are also very smart for separate
Jackets, but for the woman who must
economic there are the loveliest OF
garments Of fine French cretonne
trimmed with bias bands and revers
Of satin. with frogs or big buttons.
They are quite charming in effect
The separate coat of taffeta OF satin
comes to us from Paris and is proving
popular Changeablc shades and ligh'
colors are in great demand for these
The hchu scarf or cape is a novelty
and is easily made. II is shaped lik,
a fichu but quite deep, falling grace
fully over the shoulders. The uppei
material is chiffon or marouisette
while the under is of a different coloi
in messaline or soft satin. and th'
border IS OF fringe OF marabout.
There is a long. loose wrap in vogue
that viii prove a veritable mantle o
charity II is used for automobiline
receptions and the theatre, and com
pletely envelopes the wearer, hanginl
from the fitted shoulders in graceful
folds. It recalls the mantilla and tn,
burnous in old pictures. These wraps
may be costly or inexpensive, but the,
is a revival OF the old-time puffings
ruchings. shirrings and cordings 70
trimming these long evening wraps
but the truly beautiful models ar
embellished with revers Of the elegan
Innings. and depend mainly upon thei
classic drapery for their peculia
beauty. The woman Of wealth buy
the imported model and misses all tn
fun Of creating a wonder garment her
self. II the material is perfectly it
ted over the shoulders you may
and dare anything. kimono or angs
sleeves, bishop or Bernhard Tn
skirt OF coat-tails may fall from unde
a bolero of passementerie or a girdl
of satin, or hang from a deep yokl
Mother Hubbard fashion; It may han
free or be caught with a monks cor,
but the new cloak must be Of two ms
terials
For street wear nothing could /
more striking than the costume show
in the first Illustration. II was mac
of gray broadcloth, trimmed with sci
colored lace. lined with cerise chiffo
The second illustration shows
very attractive yet simple gown Il
afternoon or evening wear. II WI
developed OF black crepe de Chi
with the yoke and lower section
skirt OF black satin. and braided wi
black silk cord
The costly models are made Of ch
fon over messaline. or marquisei
over satin, each Of different coli
A hint 10 the clever woman is n
this wrap may De made reversible
that she may wear IL inside out
outside in. and feel justly proud Of
two faced cloak. which will ser
practically as two garments. Hea
lace landings. velvet or embroider
bands. jewelled passementerie.
beaded panels are useful as garnitul