Evening journal., 1911-12-23
THE BREAKFAST CAP "A NEW-OLD FASHION
Puffings and QuiIlinqs of
Silk and Lace Trim the
Fashionable Gowns.
TAFFETA JACKETS
A DRESS FEATURE

OF white serge, and the continued |
fancy for black and white is noted in |
the striped collar and cuffs, and the |
black buttons which form the trim |
ming. Following an odd fashion of the |
moment the seam is left open for about |
ten inches at the lower part OF the |
side-front Of the skirt The cap IS
made of linen lawn and is ornamented !
with bow of lace at the left side.
The shape of the buttons, be it noted, |
is something new, oblong buttons be-
ing seen on many of the latest Paris
gowns. They are a relief from the un-
varying regularity Of the round ones, |
and with true feminine caprice many
women are replacing the old buttons |
on their gowns with the new, oddly |
shaped bits of bone or pearl that give |
such an air Of distinction. Other new
buttons are made of the same material
as the dress. with which they are to
be worn, but the goods is in the CEN
ter and the circumference of the but !
ton is a celluloid ring, either black
or white The buttons now are quite a
feature of the dress and demand as
careful thought as any other part of
the costume. Large or small, they are
used lavishly on almost all the dresses
Of today, the fancy for the front clos
ing making them a real necessity.
Where the skirts are not clos1l N
front. row of purely ornamental but
tons is often set down the median line
from waist to hem. This arrangement
looks rather we'll If the tunic is open
or slightly crossed in front, and re-
lieves the plainness Of an otherwise
untrimmed skirt
A revival of 1860 fashions is seen in
the puffed and quilted bands, with
which many dresses are now decor
ated. The putting is made of bias
strips about two inches wide when
finished, gathered in two rows on each
edge. A dress recently seen, made
of blue-and-white taffeta, was quaint
ly trimmed with the puffed bands
down both sides of the front of the
waist, and. around the lower edge of
the peplum. The front closing of the
skirt was also bordered on either side
with the bands, which turned sharp
ly at the top of the hem and were
continued around the skirt. Double
and triple pleated frills Of silk or
lace are also much used as trimming
on this seasons gowns. The silk is
sometimes 'pinked," that is. cut IN
scallops, the edges of which them
selves are cut in tiny points; and
sometimes the frills are narrowly
fringed on both edges. making a soft
and feathery decoration for any kind
of a frock.
Double box-pleated frills Of lace
make an appropriate finish for the
lace and net of which so many gowns
or parts of gowns are now made.
This illustration Figure two) shows
the effective use of white lace as a
tunic and corseet waist over blue
taffeta. A. full quilting of lace finishes
the bottom of the tunic and the top Of
4 the corselet, making them more dur
able than If left Just with the edge Of
! lace itself 4 silk fringe to match the
under part of the dress is applied to
the edge of the wide tuck on the skirt
and the lower edges of the sleeves. A
blue silk girdle finishes the dress at
the waist
Taffeta has carried over from the
summer and is more popular than
ever this winter Contrary to the
usaul course Of such events. the pre-
diction is that it will hold its own
next summer as well. Cunning little
taffeta Jackets are seen among the
good things to bestowed upon us in
the spring. Some Of these are just a
5ittle full. and gathered at the waist
into a peplum. which is fitted care
fully around the hips. Others are
short little coats. which reach only
to the curve of the hips and are
trimmed on the front edges and
around the bottom with puffed band
of the taffeta These silk coats or