The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1911-05-12

sEM1 several OF our sLaoi
%fs51I1 ootraeeas writes
~ Ii. Idalta de Villiers in
-E.zS9 the Boston GLOBE.
aAIa 'Asa'A4'--''- Needless to say, such
gowns as these will never be worn Dy
women of caltured taste who are III
socjety. At the same time there Is
distinct movement IN the dlrectloh OF
semitransparent afternoon and even
ing gowns of ninon de sole or SILK
muslin or even thin crepe de chine.
These dresses are worn over supple
silk or satin underslip which oEly
reaches to the knees and the hem of
the skirt proper is lined and inter
lined with transparent material-silk
muslin, chiffon, etc. The result Is
that the dress clings to the lower
limbs and feet in rather fascinating
way and an impression Of fairy-like
lightness is conveyed.
1t is certain that 1t becomes more
and more the fashion to dispense with
petticoats and this latest development
of the petticoatless costume is likely
to becone exceedingly popular.
notice. already, in the show rooms
Of our leading dressmakers tendency
towards a revival Of the clinging "fus-
sy" gown of few years ago. For the
past year we have had with US eX-
tremely clinging gowns Of supple sat
lns, velvets and thin cloths, but as
rule these gowns have been almost
plain so far as the skirts were con-
cerned Now, our dress autocrats are
turning their attention to those be-
wildering little dresses which seem as
though they had been thrown together
by fairy fingers; delicious mass of
delicate lace, tucked up chiffons, fine
embroideries and so on.
We are, in fact, about to enter up
on a period of fussy frocks Of an
ultra-elaborate description, frocks
which will cling to the form quite as
lnsistently as those Of few months
ago but which will be intensely femn-
Inc in design and in execution. We
have not yet arrived at the full popu-
larity Of this style of dress but | al
ways like to make my readers aware
Of changes II the world Of fashion
which may be looked for with con-
lhdence and this revival of the fussy,
cllnging robe is one of these changes.
And | have no doubt that we shall
see revival Of elaborate lingerie
dresses this coming summer. Last
year we were wearing linen and tussor
coats and skirts on all occasions but
| In the summer of 1911 we shall have
the opportunity Of wearing those de-
| lightful but costly arrangements Of
fine muslin and cobweb lace which
were dear to the hearts Of our great
grandmothers.
In Velvet and VeIveteen.
Velvet and velveteen are still the
,avorite materials for spring suits, and
the most magnificent silk braids are
freely used in conjunction with them.
A lovely Paquin model showed
skinny skirt of black velvet with
some wide, thick, black silk braid ar
ranged in lines from waist to knees.
At one side the lengths Of braid were
finished off with handsome ornaments
of braid and silk cords, and the coat,
which was rather long, was covered
with braid over the bust and shoul-
Cli irt ch hnY.f-y oiCtA AI
was buttoned up on tight corsage of
royal blue peau de sole, and the silk
corsage was finished off at the neck
with a dainty little chemisette Of put
ty-colored Venetian guipure. 1t was
an exceedingly attractive suit and
Just the thing for the months Of Feb
ruary and March. 1t was smart enough
for visiting purposes or even for a
wedding, but the design was so sim
pie that the costume might have been
worn in the street without attracting
undue attention.
Some of the new silk braids for
tailored suits are II and IA inches
wide and they are made of the richest
silk. Navy blue serges and cloths
look admirable when trimmed with
these splendid braids and with hand
some buttons or enamel set in silver
or in Jet,
Several Of our leading dressmakers
assert that the waist line is going up
still higher, and 1t is certain that one
does see the eXaggeratedly short waist
line on many Of the latest models. but
on the other hand a number Of our So
ciety leaders in Paris have remained
faithful to the becoming waist line
which is neither high nor low.
Refuse to Follow Fashion.
There are always women to be
found, and Of all nations. who will
slavishly follow tie very latest die.
tates OF the autocrats of fashion, but
on the other hand we sometimes find
women, most frequently among the ex-
elusive Parisiennes. who are a law
unto themselves. even in matters OF
dress. These women accept the sug
gestions Of their dressmakers and
tailors when these suggestions fall In
with their own ideas and tastes. with
the result that special and individual
fashions are created which bring as
much credit to the wearer as to the
designer.
The moderate waist line is undoubt-