The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1911-10-12
~ England Doughnut.
las Won New York and Rolled its Way
Into Polite Society.
boston Herald

las w on New YOIk diu NOueA itS way
Into Polite Society.
IBoston Herald
The old-fashioned New England dough-
nut has reason to be pulled up. 1t mas
conquered New FORK. There is no one kind
of cake in the market which has achiev-
ed such popularity. Time was, and not
SO very long ago, either, when the dough-
nut in any form was regarded IN New
York with lofty condescension:
1t is history that New Englanders in
New York for visit often got home
sick and cut their stay short all on &C.
count of the lack Of doughnuts on the
breakfast table and that the wiser New
Englanders were careful to bring along
a lunch basket we'll stocked with their
favorite dainty. There are known cases
of tin boxes packed full of doughnuts
which were tucked into the trunk OF one
and another young person bound Tor the
big city to settle down.
A very old Maine lady related case
of this sort to city boarder last sum-
mer. In common with score OF other
New Workers, the city boarder was in,
troduced to brand of doughnut so de-
lightful that unashamed she fell into
line with New England traditions and
asked for one at breakfast. In less than
aweek all the New Workers were clam
oring for breakfast doughnuts. Apropos
of this incident the grandmother OF the
house told this story:
''Thirty-fve years ago." she began,
''Maine folks didn't take as many trips
to New York as they do today. We
were some afraid OF New York then.
Private folks in our little town never
went at all unless to visit relations there.
That is how husband and happened to
go.
BACK TO THE DoUGHNUTs.
Husband went first to spend week
with nephew whom he had reared and
who was like son to US till he settled
in New York and married stylish New
York girl, who started in right away to
keep house. Well, husband had splen-
did time, but when he got home you
should have seen him make for the
doughnut box. He told me that he had
not seen doughnut since he left home.
land Henry'-that's nephew used
to be so fond of them. said.
When went to visit the boy and his
wife took along in my trunk tin box
of freshly baked crullers and on the quiet
called nephew to my room. How ne
laughed! Then he went after his wife
and thew both sat down and had feast,
and she asked me to teach her how to
make them"
When the old lady was told of the i'm
proved status of the doughnut in New
York she looked sceptical. Really 1t is
not easv to account for the social ascent
of the doughnut. Its general popularity
NAV be accounted for more easily, an
authority on such things SAID.
The first big start the doughnut got IN
New York was due to a New Highlander
with an establishment in Connecticut,
who, going over the ground carefully,
discovered that the New York bakeries
making doughnuts were not equipped to
turn them out in larger quantities than
would meet their own trade, and conse-
auentlv the thousand and one lunch coun-
tiers and small popular-priced restau-
rants which were starting up all over
New Y ork might become profitable Gus
toners provided crullers were delivered
to them fresh every morning. He start
ed to make them his customers.
Before long almost every dellcatessen
store in town displayed alongside of its
sandwiches, pickles and cheese large
wire basket filled with crullers. cross
between the richer doughnut priced by
Down Fasteners and the fancy cruller
which now represents the highest estate
of the doughnut family The crullers
tasted good, they We're we'll cooked and
satisfying and they cost little, and the
enterprising New England maker en-
larged his plant and kept on sending
New York crullers. To quote one baker,
He sends carload Of crullers into New
York every day." According to another
informant, his winter trade here is sew
eral thousand dozens a day and recently
he started up a small cruler plant in
New Y ork.
PLENTY OF ROOM.
Before the New Englander's product
it became evident to New Yorker with
talent for mixing and frying dough
that there was room in New York for a
plant which would turn out crullers only
and supply them fresh twice day to
small bakers who could not comply with
the new fire laws, as we'll as to restau-
rants, diaries and the like. This mans
plant puts out nothing but crullers, and
his wagons deliver crullers only from
early in the morning till after the noon
hour Go into any dairy in that part of
the town which sells milk by the glass
and one finds pile of this manufac-
turer's cruliers on the counter up to per-
haps o'clock, at the latest, by which
time the supply is sold out.
AS result probably of the New Eng
land mans push, breakfasts and lunch
cons of crulers and coffee are about as
common now in New York popular res
taurants as in old-fashioned New England
farmhouses. Also, as a result of this
same push, New York bakers in general
began to give more attention to manu-
featuring doughnuts. One of the oldest
bakeries in New York now sells over
the counters of one small store in not
very populous locality about 300 dough-
nuts day, or double the number sold
two or three years ago.
"A few years ago. the manager said,
1--WE made only one kind of doughnut,
described as the old fashioned cruller.
Now we make four varieties, represent
ing different sorts of dough, but cooked
alike il boiling lard, and always they
are SOLD oot by 4 O'Clock in the after
noon.
"But the place where the jump up in
the increased demand tor doughnuts is
most curious are the German bakeries,
where at one time kind OF cake pecu-
liarly German took the same place with
their customers that crullers take with
New England folks. Of course the Ger