davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

at Halloween party last fall pat
ties chat noir,'' and the patty shells
were set on little mats of suggestive
black fur (cut from an old muff) :
The guests made many facetious
comments on the chat noir course.
but the patties were all consumed
with evident relish nevertheless.
Ghostly decorations add much to
the Halloween character of the en-
tertainment and If you happen to pos
sess one of the tall piano lamps, or
an ordinary tall, slender lamp which
stands on a small table. you can con-
coct a wonderful spectral ghost which
will be certain to make a tremendous
hit The ghosts head is made of
yellow crepe paper over a huge wire
frame which sets over the ordinary
round globe Of the lamp. On this
shade are pasted enormous, sIanting
white paper eyeballs with black pu-
pills set at the outer corners. fiery red
paper nostrils and a terrific red pa
per mouth with white teeth. If these
features are cleverly arranged the
ghost will have a probably fierce and
horrible expression. Yards of white
crepe paper are wound in spiral eff
feet around the tall standard of the
lamp to form "draped skirts; and a
straight tunic of the white paper falls
from a p1eated paper ruche which
represents a collar just below the
lighted head. Arms are made OF long
strips of pasteboard and over them
fall white tissue paper "angeP' sleeves.
Of course the fingers are cut long and
clawlike and the more rudely fashion
ed the hands, the funnier.
Sometimes the Halloween hostess
persuades a young brother to dress up
in sheet draperies to play the ghost
of some we'll known person come
back for the evening to be one Of
u.s. A length of white muslin. with
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

may not afford to spend thousands Of
dollars upon our winter furs, there are
many less costly varieties, some of
them limitations of the aristocratiO
seal fox and sable, made by dying
plebeian beasts of the woods and
fields. For example, dyed raccoon
looks much like seal; thibet goat when
cleverly treated is hard to tell from
the extremely costly white Sitka fox,
red fox Of the fields is dyed to re-
semble his aristocratic cousins; coney
looks much like ermine; Australian
opossum is almost as pretty es the
rare and costly chinchilla-and so on.
Mink is one of the furs that have
never been successfully initiated.
There are horrible fur neckpiece and
rnuff sets sold as ''mink'' which are
merely marmot skins streaked with
a paint brush and which deceive no.
body. The s'broolz mink" sold by
many good furriers Is really muskrat
and there is a Japanese mink that is
so cleverly treated that it deceives
even the dealers. In genuine mink the
black streak goes clear through the
fur to the skin. This fur is very beau
tiful when new, but it soon fades and
loses it's depth Of tone. taking on
tawny, yellow streaks that are ugly.
1t is just now not as fashionable as
the darker brown sealsl1in and the
soft gray brown moleskin which is
used for draped evening wraps.
MoIeskin Extremely Fashionable This
Year.
The furs, par excellence for dressy
evening and afternoon limousine
wraps, are ermine and moleskin. The
latter has come into favor within the
past two seasons and is now very
fashionable. The soft, lovely grayish
brown of moleskin matches no other
fabric exactly and yet this adorable
fur seems to harmonic with all fabric
colorings. From hundred and fifty
to two hundred skins are required to
make an ordinary wrap and for the
voluminous affairs draped in Oriental
fashion, many more are required.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

~ ORSE SHOW week is the official
opening of the fur season in
New York. Before that date
U furs are worn, of course. if the
weather turns cold enough; but at
the Horse Show furs are worn whether
or not the thermometer warrants it
and if the Indian summer is too long
and too late to make coats bearabIe,
dainty frocks accompanied by hand
some fur neckpieces and muffs are
donned.
The wiseacres are prophesying
cold winter and, contemplating the
preparations which the furriers have
made, one sincerely hopes that pro-
phesy may come true, for only snappy,
freezing weather will make many OF
the huge neckpieces and draped fur
wraps endurable. What the furriers
call collars are really stable capes
which cover the figure to the waist
line and these tremendous neckpieces
with their big muffs to match require
g goodly supply of fur-as the pur-
chaser soon discovers. An example Of
the exaggerated size of some of the
new furs is instanced in the photo
graph of a set of black and white fox
furs designed for use with a hand
some reception costume Black and
white fox pelts are used in this SUI
Derb set and the skins are tossed over
the shoulders in a carelessly luxurious
effect that is picturesque in the ex-
treme. The muff is made of black vel
vet lined with white satin and over
it, diagonally, are flung two fox skins.
one black and the other white with
naturalistic trimming of paws and
brushes. Heads, paws and brushes
also trim the neckpiece and the white
animal seems grasping the body of
the black one in its teeth, and the
black animal the white one in real
istic and ferocious manner.
Conventional Effects Avoided.
Even the more inexpensive fur sets.
made up to sell in quantities from
dyed skins, have this barbaric, pic
turesque character and the conven-
tional, narrow fur stole crossed in
front of the throat has a very prin
old maidish look this season contrasted
with the big fur neckpieces that are
flung over the shoulders and back.
Tails and paws are lavishly used to
increase this effect of luxury and even
the most inexpensive furs when made
I'D in the new styles cost a good bit
more than they did q few seasons ago.
The wraps also are quite different
from the straight, conventional affairs
Of a few seasons ago. Once a seal
skin coat differed very little from an
ordinary ulster in style. 1t was slash
ed up the back. had regulation coat
sleeves and a narrow coat collar and
Iapels and very often it was lined
staidly with quilted wadding in the
aomber shade of the brown fur. Now
adays the sealskin wrap is an entirely
different affair. It's lines are ex-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

- long as there are cats, pump
- kins and hobgobIins a-pIenty,
it will not matter greatly what
the character of the Hallowe' en-
party may be, but whether it is
card party, cotillion or just an ordi-
nary Halloween frolic the sepulchral
lights, mysterious, green-eyed felines
and other symbols of the witches
night must not be omitted If the oc-
casion is to be success.
Halloween cotilIons have been
quite the fad for the last season or
two and these dances can be made
very charming with the aid of crepe
paper decorations, pumpkin shaded
lights and favors of Halloween type
One of the prettiest figures for such
a cotillion is the mirror figure which
introduces the old Halloween super
stition of the lovers face reflected in
a maids mirror on the stroke OF mid
night. When this figure is to be
danced the lights in the ballroom are
lowered. red shaded lamps being set
here and there to lessen the gloom.
The girl called up by the cotillion
leader is handed an ordinary hand
mirror and a lighted candle in
candIestick She takes her place in
a chair in the center of the room and
the young men summoned by the
leader come behind the chair in turns
and peer over the girls shoulder into
the mirror while someone strikes
twelve on a gong. The girl pretends
to wipe the reflections off the mirror
until she sees the particular face that
pleases her. Then she rises and dances
away with the chosen swain, the dis
appointed young men dancing in pairs
together.
Pumpkin pincushions. pretty can
dlesticks, catseye jewelry and fancy
baskets and bonbon boxes decorated
in Halloween style make charming
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

cuffs are edged with the undyed musk
rat, which, by the bye, is a very at
tractive new fur much favored by Pa
quin. This fur has a grayish cast
with soft brown stripes and is like the
Australian opossum without its blue
color.
Seal and Mink Growing Scarce and
Expensive.
Only the very rich woman now can
afford a coat of real sealskin or gen.
uine mink and as for sable, its price
is almost prohibitive now that the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

Russian Duma has forbidden the trap
ping Of sables for three years, Seal
skin is almost twice as costly as it was
two years ago and mink has advanced
almost as much proporEonately. Even
the once despised skunk, known to the
polite world variously as leutre,
brown rnarten and Alaska sable, is
seventy-f1ve per cent more costly than
it was two years ago and the common
little coon may value his skin at seven
dollars instead of seventy cents. For
tunately. however, for those of US who
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14
SOMETHING NEW FOR THE
DRESSING TABLE.

n HE dainty white pyroxylin toilet
belongings that have to a great
- extent taken the place Of he
heavy silver belongings recently o.,
fashionable, come now with charming
hand tinted miniatures set in the
backs in narrow metal rims The
miniatures are copied from old
French and English prints and from
the Romney. Matter and Watteau
paintings The colorings are delicate
and may be selected with a view TO
matching the color scheme of the
bedroom which the dresser belong
ings are to adorn-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

favors for a cotillion of this sort, and
of course the supper table will be
highly significant of the event. cats,
pumpkins, hobgoblins and witches
playing an important part in the dec
orations. The menu may also in
clude appropriate dishes, like fruit
and nut salad, pumpkin tarts, cider,
and ice cream in Halloween shapes
which any good caterer can furnish
Some patties of deIiciously creamed
meat were labeled on the menu card
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

~ ORSE SHOW week is the official
opening of the fur season in
New York. Before that date
furs are worn. of course, if the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1911-10-14

= o long as there are cats, pump
kins and hobgobIins a-plenty,
% it will not matter greatly what
the character of the Halloween
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21

steels and bones are the most usual work
that comes in from new customers. Where
the corsets are properly fitted neither new
steels nor new bones should be necessary.
The elastic OF the supporters will need 10
be replaced about twice on the medium
grade courtile corset When ! say medium
grade | mean corset costing from three
10 six dollars For such price you can
get custom corsets made OF first class ma
terials. II properly fitted two pairs OF
these corsets should last from one to two
years and need only TO have the elasuc OF
the supporters renewed. The number or
times they will have 10 be cleaned, WILL OF
course. depend on the wearer. the wear
of the corset also depends on the way IL
is cleaned. IA
"Besides the repairs I have mentioned We
have a lot of customers who send In their
corsets TO have the lace renewed, iresn
ribbons put on and the embroidery fresn'
ened This is the fancy side or the DUST
ness though I can't claim that II IL tho
hest having At first did all fitting in the
homes Of customers. Now | have 80 mucn
work that [ seldom have time 70 go out TOT
fttings unless in the case OF very Soo1
customers When a woman taxes speclat
nride in her shape, she often has pair OF
corsets for each gown. ] have one GUS
TONER of this sort who has In the neignoor-
hood of fifty corsets. some OF them are
fen years old Any day | may get q can
~ come TO her house trat evening and re-,
Ar ali her corsets That means several
hundred dollars in my pocket. so OF course
7 make the time 10 go 70 her or course.
the oftener the fashionable figure changes
the more money II means 10 the corset
filter"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21

the greatest trouble in keeping their cor
sets down unless the corsets are either
made to order or altered 10 suit their
figures. Did YOU never notice that some
women's hip bones appeared - be danger
ously near their belt line? Those are the
women who have most trouble TO keep
their corsets in place. The regulation cor
set form has slopng hips. Consequently
when they are laced on square hips they
rise up The usual result is that the top
Of the corsets forms lump in the middle
of the back. between the shoulders. When
you see such a lump in the woman's back
watch her when she stands up Nine cases
out OF ten she will have square hips. She
may be wearing four pairs OF stocking
supporters and all OF them strapped down
10 the breaking point. but her corset will
not stay down.
Another common fault is the too tightly
fitted bust. II you want TO learn the pc
culiarities and inequalities of human fig
ures go into the corset business. 1t is an
almost invariable rule that II a womaa has
large hips she will have small bust. II
she has a large bust she nearly always has
slender arms and legs. Fortunately the
renodellng Of corsets doesn't require us TO
take into account the size Of the limbs. but
if a new customer comes into our shop l
can tell in nine cases out OF ten II she is
padded by the size OF her arms.
Another pecularity that is troublesome
10 the corset maker is the lump OF flesh
some women gather just below the waist
in the back. I'm some women this amounts
10 almost a hustle. The custom made cor
set does not allow for this addition. As
consequence the corset must be altered or
the flesh worked OF. Fortunately for cor
set remodellers II Is much easier To have
the corset htted than TO work of three or
more pounds OF surplus fat In the middle OF
ones back. In custom corset the main
thing Is 10 get the hips TO fit. The next is
10 get a model in which the bust is not too
high. II these TWO points can he attained
there is very little for the remodeller 10 do.
Indeed, IL the corset Ia properly laced It
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21
eoN VOYAGE DINNERS.

hostess giving a farewell dinner TOT
- fr,.nds who were on the eve or DE-
..,,u,. for England for the coronation
..s.on had as her centrepiece a crown u
roses. Englands flowers, and as favors
s.,,n bonbon boxes ornamented with gilt
,,.r.mache crowns. The ices appeared
=, On. form OF roses, and the little CAKES
~. frosted TO represent the same flower.
Another hostess will combine the corona
ton idea with that OF an ocean voyage al
h.r han voyage dinner. In the centre OF
,h. small round table Will be ship OF
nov.r,. Tying an American nag made OF
inv red roses and forget-me- nots. Extend
IN. from the ship will be heavy nautical
looking ropes Of silver. ending at each place
IN mn. life preservers made Of perfumed
u,,,,. satin and bearing the names OF the
-v.sts The favors will be drawn from the
n,,.ntoce at the conclusion OF the dinner
IA will be nothing less than little dia-
r,ond and pearl crown pins for the women
,d .,m,lar tie pins for the men.
For the Informal bon voyage supper there
80. .nv number Of suitable favors to choose
go, such a. miniature suit cases. hat
49,. and trunks. ships. cameras and deck
- tva
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21

regular customer OF that shop She had
been away from New Workout West. 7
think-fcr several years. and had bought
different makes OF corsets When she came
hack TO us she had several pairs Of corsets
which were almost unworn. and she wished
10 have them altered TO suit the fashion
able figure our manager refused to do
II She wanted the customer To buy new
corsets. made by the house. of course.
1T was while fitting pair of or own
corsets to her figure. when she talked Of the
good pairs she would be forced 10 throw
away. that I made the suggestion that
she let me come and NJ them at her home
I went that night and fitted the first pair.
and within the week | had rcmodelled all
her old corsets and earned 80 extra Ten
dollars for night work is a good bit ~
money 10 a corset filter and repairer. It
looked so good TO me that | began 10 look
around for more night work Besides
speaking to patrons Of the shop. ! began
to put small advertisements in the papers.
offering TO call evenings at the homes OF
ladies who had corsets 10 be repaired and
altered Within two years / had so much
work that ! was forced TO employ an as
sistant.
7 held on TO my work for the shop. Dur
Ing the third year. just at the time the last
decided change was made In the fashion
able figure, I gave up my work In the
shop and opened my hospital. Here / do
everything. from making corsets 10 putting
IN new strings. | don't prefer to make cor
sets, and never do IT unless customers
ngure IL such that she can't be suited in
custom garment and comes To me I'm pref
erence TO a regular corset maker. As
rule a custom made corset can be made
10 nj with few alterations. In some in
stances / change the location OF the stock
ing supporters and "a corset which had
been uncomfortable becomes all that could
be desired At present. tie style Is for two.
three and sometimes four pairs Of stock
ing supporters on pair OF corsets This
is necessary for some figures. but not always
I'm the same place. When woman asks
ma WHAT corset .she should wear often
~ - =
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21
IS EB8RRZE5 ASHTON ar9 )RIVOLITY}(IZk&zz&a|
EccenfrfcifieS Eliminated
Tho Modes That Have Survived Are Simple
Graceful and Conservative.

on the most simple lines Of straight skirt
and half long loosely fitted coat. showed an
underskirt OF white lace nounces as the
open sides fell apart. Inside the open front
Of the coat were quantities Of white lace
frills and lace frills fell over the white
gloved hands. The appearance was that
of an entire underdress OF white lace. A
wide rimmed hat OF fine black straw.
trimmed with wide. plated frill Of white
lace, which circled the crown. lay nat on
the brim and rose AT one side into a tall
cocksde. appropriately finished the costume.
A twist OF bright green velvet passed
about the crown, covered one edge Of the
lace and knotted into a stin little bow at
the base OF the cockade.
While one often sees skirts complicated
with TUNES and underdresses. many elegant
women wear tailored costumes OF dark gray
and black satin. made with short coat and
short skirt. merely trimmed with ouant-
ties of buttons. covered with the same silk
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21

as the costume. and false buttonholes,
made of a fold Of the silk in dark gray
and taupe color they have an ar OF re-
fined elegance particularly noticeable The
first OF these costumes that appeared had
facings of white satin, but later ones nave
been faced with the material. the note OF
contrast being in the elaborate chemisette
and sleeve frils. A strict scrutiny will
reveal colored stockings and belt OF some
bright color, which Is continued in the para
SOL and generally in the hat or Its tr4m-
ming
The old-fashioned self trimmings OF pla!t-
ed frills, tiny -uches and wide plated
bands. the plaits reversed on the st'tcheo
edges, are ali in high favor on gowns OF
the new soft taNetas. No other trimming
is necessary except bit OF lace. eHaoso'o.
cred null or point d'espr.t, IN the form o.
a round Dutch collar, bertha or hchu.
NJ 4. =.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21
FUR CO., LTD.
Best Selection Of Choice Furs in Smartest Styles
- 1914, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON.

can be worn both with comfort and grace
without any remodelling at all. II, how
ever the woman Is as careful as she should
be, wishing TO have her figure look its very
best. the few needed alterations can be
made In the bust at small cost. This VIII
not only add to the comfort and At Of the
corset but to its durability. A perfectly
fitted corset will outlast a much better
garment that doesn't fit.
Besides fitting corsets We have a great
many old shapes TO bring up TO date.
am now working on five pairs for one Gus
toner. They were bought at great re-
duction. beautiful garments but short on
the hips-old style. They were made 10 sell
at twenty-five dollars a pair. She bought
them at seven. | will remodel them for
three aud as result she will be getting
twenty five dollar corsets at ten. You have
no idea how many wealthy woman prac-
tise this economy. Where the alterations
are slight they can be made by a compe-
tent maid.
I'VE have many instances In which the
discomfort and misht Of a corset are GER
rected by proper lacing. A woman comes
IN the shop with her face drawn up into a
half dozen Fuckers. Her corsets are so I'M
comfortable she can neither sit down nor
stand up in any comfort, though she has
paid high price for them in an exclusive
shop. OF course the first step is TO have
the clothes removed and examine the I'M
comfortable garment. The next is TO take
II off and put In pair OF fresh strings and
show her how not to lace II. Any and all
corsets should be laced with two pairs of
strings one pair should begin al the top
and end at the waist. the second pair
begin at the bottom and end at the waist.
Many women who do this Will tie their
strings together. at the top and again at
the bottom This should not he done. The
end OF each string should be knotted In the
hole OF the corset When the laces are tied
together there is danger of getting the
corset on crooked.
ITO tighten the corset the laces should
be pulled at the waist, and held equally
tight all the way from the top 10 the bot
tom Of the corset. With a properly fitted
corset the pressure should never be greater
Al the waist than at any other point. If
the wearer has surplus flesh. as most
women have these days. she should sir
her hands into her corset and pull the
flesh up not down. before tightening the
laces. The most perfectly fitted corset in
the world will not be comfortable or look
we'll unless It is properly laced. Putting
on new supporters and inserting fresh