davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
For the Grand PIalx Everybody
Dresses Els boratelY

tail of the costumes pictured is authorita-
tive and new.
One of the photographs shows a tailor
ed costume of white fabrics with heavy
Venice lace. The back of the costume is
illustrated and a peculiar feature is the
movement of the lines at the foot of
the tunic and edge of the jacket. The
jacket scallops up and the tunic down:
and in front the opposite effect is achiev
ed, the jacket pointing downward and
the tunic rising almost to the knee. The
material of this suit is a lustrous. pliable
mixture of wool with mohair, and the
heavy lace trimming adds much effective
ness to the simple lines. The collar Is
made of green velvet, with a center OF
Lighter green and narrow trimming of
green and gold gimp-the concession OF
East Indian modes made by the couturier
A very smart silk tailored costume is
shown in another photograph. This suit
is in a pale beige color. the lace over
skirt being in a creamy tone like antique
lace. The lines are simple. rows OF cpv-
cred buttons and the rich cream lace
forming almost the only trimming. the
parasol carried with this silk costume IS
of black velvet lined with shrimp PINK
and the hat is covered with piack
feathers.
An embroidered taffeta gown shows the
new tunic slashed at the front to sno"
petticoat Of contrasting material the
gown in this case is of periwinkie piue
with bold embroidery done in suodue,u
oriental colorings. The petticoat beneath
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

lored suits which are being much copied
by American manufacturers were noted
at the Grand Prix. One was of kings
blue corduroy and had a fetching cut
away coat buttoned obliquely from the
waist line to the hip with large black
crochet buttons. Oblique rows of smaller
crochet buttons were set across, each
wide rever and Jun the side of the cuff
The skirt was new model. straight in
line but rather narrow and with the half
flounce, reaching only around the back
and sides, which promises to be very
fashionable this winter. With this charm
ing blue corduroy suit was worn blue
velvet toque entirely covered on top with
folds of fringed-out white taffeta. A blue
corduroy reticule matching the suit hung
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
How to Clean Lace.

IN washing lace 1t is a good plan to
pin it to a cushion or thickly padded
board. pull out all points and edges
and fasten them carefully to the cushion
or padding and allow to remain until
perfectly dry. Instead of adding bluing
to water in which lace has been rinsed
try making the final rinsing in milk. 1t
gives a lovely creamy tone to the lace
Rinsing in weak tea or coffee will also
give that creamy tone.
Irish crochet lace may be easily laun-
dered. When ironing have several thick
nesses of blanket covered by an ironing
sheet on the table. Lay the lace right
side down on it, cover with cloth and
iron until dry. pressing down hard. Then
take your crochet hook and carefully pull
out each little picot, raise all the petals
of the flowers, then press the balls into
shape with your fingers. Even a large
piece like a coat or waist can be done
at home just as we'll as at the cleaners
To keep the color of ecru lace when
washing 1t add little yellow ocher to
the starch. Mix a small amount of the.
ocher with boiling water and add 1t to
the starch or to the last rinsing water
If starch is not used. Ocher may be
bought at any paint store.
To restore black lace to its original
luster squeeze il through a mixture made
of half cupful of water and one tea
spoonful each of borax and alcohol then
rinse it in a cup of water with an old
black kid glove that has been boiled.
Pull out the edges of the lace until it is
almost dry, then lay between two cloths
and press with a hot iron
When cleaning rare old lace do not
wiring it. for the twisting OF thu fine
threads breaks them. Make a suds of
shaved soap and boiling water, squeeze
the lace between the hands in this water,
rinse it in two or three other waters
and then steep 1t in milk for twenty-five
minutes to give it the correct yellowish
tint.
The following is a French method of
doing up laces: After having plated
them in several folds place them in
small linen bag and sew up the opening.
Immerse the bag in pure olive oil. At
the end of twenty-four hours take the
bag out and put 1t in soapy boiling water
After 1t has soaked for a good quarter
of an hour rinse 1t in tepid water and
then pass 1t through a weak solution OF
mucilage and water. Take the lace out
of the bag and iron. IL it is desired to
make the lace look like new place it on
a frame covered with flannel until 1t is
dry. taking care to stretch it delicately
on both edges with the aid of pins.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

Gus bags made of the richest silks and
gold and silver laces. and loaded with
tiny ribbon flowers which French fingers
can make so beautifully. a genuine Pa
risian reticule of this kind costs pretty
penny and such bag Is gift that may
well be appreciated by it's recipient. But
very satisfactory copies of the French
bags may be turned out by any clever
woman at comparatively modest cost
after a study of the models displayed
in the shops which import Paris nov
elites. and no more acceptable Christmas
gifts could be thought of for ones
woman friends than handsome theater
or bridge recticules of this character.
The important thing in planning one
of these bags is the quality of the ma
terials to be used. Only the richest
stuffs should be purchased. for a bag
made of cheap materials entirely lacks
distinction and dignity. Fortunately
very little material is required and for
three or four dollars a bag priced five
times as much may often be duplicated
Remnants of brocade may often be
picked up for song, and combined with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

"HE cult OF the ornamental hand-
bag has developed amazingly
during the last few years, and
now the sturdy leather bag
has been relegated TO purely
unitarian uses in the wardrobe. With
the calling costume. the bridge frock.
the matinee luncheon or evening frock
mifadi carries most elaborate reticule
made of silk and gold lace, or of velvet
or brocade This reticule is provided
with graceful cord handles which are
topped over the arm or from one shout
der. the bag swinging under the arm.
In these fanciful reticules are carried
the trifes and trinkets which the fas-
tidiously groomed woman likes to have
always by her-the tiny mirror in which
furtiye peeps may be taken to see that
all is right with hat. couture and COM
plexion: the little box of face powder
with its accompanying puff or bit of
chamois skin: the stick of lip rouge which
most women past first youth now make
use of. and of course the various need
fuIs in the way of handkerchief. smelling
bottle. memorandum pad for jotting down
addresses or appointments, and the bit
of change which may be required for
tip 10 maid or footman in payment
for some slight service. In addition to
these the very fashionable young woman
is apt to have in her reticule a dainty
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

lilies of the field in purple and fine linen
and tall silk hats, and the women wear
frocks that run into the three figure
mark and bear the hallmark of the style
dictators OF the world. Every couturier
is expected to launch something new, in
dividual and interesting in the way OF
modes at the races and many OF the
coIituriers employ professional name
gums. or costume models. who parade up
and down in gorgeous gowns and hats
expressive of the latest ideas In the sar-
torial art
The premier race of the season is held
at Longchamps, just out of Paris. and the
racing season ends with the Brittany cir
cult, when the fashionables go to Trou-
vile and Deauville to enjoy the cool
breezes and attend the Grand Prix Here
one may see the bizarre and daring cos
tunes of the fashionable half world, as
well as the exquisite frocks and well
chosen hats of the real fashionables; and
as Trouville is almost invariably cool and
windy in August forecasts of winter fash
ions are to be noted in smart coats, two
piece suits and felt hats. In the evenings
wonderful gowns are worn at the Casino
and in the mornings on the gay Rue de
Paris. which is lined with fascinating lit
tie shops. are to be seen delightful tai
lored frocks of linen and other summary
materials. All the important Paris dress
makers have branch shops on the Rue
de Paris at Trouville, and orders are
taken lor autumn and winter costumes
like the chic models displayed by the
DuSy IndnneQulnS.
Z Two stylS movements have come to-
gether on the fashion field and each is
contending for first place. One of these
is the early Victorian style movement
and the other the East Indian. The Vic
torian fashions were to be expected and
follow in orderly sequence after the en-
pire modes which have held sway for
several seasons; but the East Indian in
fluence has come quite Unexpectedly, be-
! ing a fad resulting from the furore Gre
ated by the costumes of East Indian
princesses visiting Paris and London at
the coronation. The clash of the two
styles, one so brilliant and sumptuously
oriental and the other prim and old
fashioned. has brought out some odd.
not to say weird, effects.
Tailored wear grows more and more
| ornate-as far as the French conception
is concerned. French women have taken
to wearing tailored costumes at the
races, patterning after the English wom-
en-, who look so chic and trim in the
costumes they wear at Goodwood late in
the summer. Two typically French tai
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

often wonderful hand embroidery is done
over the gold or silver lace. This en-
broidery merely boosts the price OF the
imported article and may we'll be dis
pensed with in making up such bags at
home. The little garlands and sprays OF
handmade silk flowers may be purchased
ready made, and though rather expensive
these little French posies do add deal
OF distinction and beauty.
There are various ways to make
theater bag. The square or oblong bag
with two sides drawn up at the top with
a cord run through casing Is per-
haps the easiest. style for the tyro to
attempt. The lining of bag of this
sort must be of the softest. handsomest
satin and should be OF some very pale
color. like creamy yellow, faint pink or
pale silver gray. 1t Is to the combination
of pastel colorings with deep toned me-
ta.llic laces that the French bags owe
SO much Of their richness and distinction.
The square sides may, II desired, be
elongated and shaped into a point at the
bottom Of the bag and tassel hung
from the tip of the point. Or the bottom
of the bag may be trimmed with fringe
a very popular notion this year
One of the bags illustrated is a two
sided affair made of brocaded silk .veiled
with thin gold or net. The casing at the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
The Dashing Empire Silk Coat Holds Its Own
Much Purple Seen at TrouYille- -FringeS and
Puffin6S the FaVOrite Trimmings LaCeto
Be BztraYaSantly Worn This Winter.

remain to make the fashions for the en-
tire civilized world for six months at
least.
There are SO many places in Paris to
wear charming clothes; and everybody is
SO exquisitely dressed that there is an
incentive TO look ones very spic and span
best all the time. The Partisan woman
manages to look chic every minute-even
after days shopping she Is calm.
serene and not bit untidy or disheveled.
Part of the secret of this may be due
to the fact that she is never without her
little vanity kit of pet cosmetics, when
are skillfully applied at intervals during
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
A NEW CONVENIENCE
FOR DRESSING BAG

I 1P-TO-THE-MINCTE travelling bags
are now supplied with dainty tele-
scope drinking cups that match the other
nttings of the bag. If the various brushes
and bottles have backs and shoppers of
silver or gold plate. the collapsfble cup
is made of one of these metals. If the
.ntpngs of the dressing bag arc of the
snowy, fashionable white composition
that initiates ivory the collapsible cup is
also of this snow white material and
these white cups are very clean and
inviting in appearance In these we'll
informed days when everybody knows
the danger of the promiscuous drinking
cup, and when even the railroads are put.
fSng pan on such cups, no sensible
human being travels without some re-
ceptacle for drinking purposes in the
handbag. There are aluminium Guns
winch weigh no more than a feather and
Mnlcn co,Iapse and fit into a small metal
DoA when takes up practically no room
at all in the bag
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

Champs Elysee the Pre- Catalin out in
the Bots. the smart Ritz, where the tea
tables are set under cool green and white
striped awning umbrellas-one may study
costumes to hearts content-and every
costume is well worth studying. At the
salon exhibition in early spring special
frocks are worn, and the little tea tables
in the tearooms near the exhibition are
hlled with smart folk who all seem to
know each other, and chatter and discuss
the pictures and the artists as they drink
tea.
But it is at the races that the i'm
portant costumes are worn. The grand
monde and the demi monde alike attend
these affairs, motor cars by the hundreds
are there; the men are arrayed Ike the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

is of changeable gold and blue taffeta and
the fichu over the bodice Is Of white iaca
over gold tissue. The draped East Indian
sash Is made of lace.
X
Very oriental in suggestion are two OF
the costumes shown: one wolfe frock
embroidered with worsted in deep red
and blue colors and dropped over a Jupe
of blue satin. and the other a tunic
gown of printed Indian crepe In shades
tune excited much interest wherever il
was seen. Two TUNES were used, the
lower one being slashed to show a trail
ing skirt OF yellow brocade. At the foot
of the upper tunic, which was made OF
yellow crepe printed in brown design,
was a band of dull gold tissue. The
printed tunic reached up over a bodice
of pale yellow chiffon and the short
sleeves were met by long pale yellow
silk gloves embroidered in white.
Lace is extravagantly popular now
as well extravagantly priced. and some
of the new frocks represent a kings
ransom in price. A beautiful Grand Prix
frock of black chiffon. pictured today.
, was dropped above a second black chiffon
slip on which was applique of lace
flower motifs cut from maline lace. Be-
low this was a band of rare old venise
arranged in tunic effect with the points
longer at the sides. A second band OF
the venise crossed the bodice on a slip
of white chiffon. the black chiffon bodice
falling over this. and over all a string OF
priceless pearls.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

ton is of shrred ribbon and through this
pass the handles. which are made OF
loops of very wide satin ribbon, folded
thickly and linked. chain fashion. Car
lands of handmade pink ribbon roses
trim this bag gracefully.
Another bag of lemon-colored satin is
yelled with f1ounce of silver net OH the
edge of which is sewed narrow silver
lace. This bag has an oval bottom IN
the center of which is an oval mirror at
tached to the satin under a strip of APP
pliqued silver gimp The handles are
made of natter blue velvet ribbon on
which silver lace is sewed. The. silk
roses around the top of the bag are in
pastel shades of pink, pale yellow and
gray blue.
Silver gray satin yelled with gold lace
and trimmed with pink silk roses makes
very handsome bag. Reseda green
drawn up on silver cords, is also eff
fective. In the bottom of the bag a
sachet may be set, instead Of the usual
mirror-if one is certain ones selection
of perfume wall be agreeable to the recip-
lent of the gift.
Dresden silk, trimmed with a little gold
lace. and lined with plain color match
ing some figure in the brocade, are
charming for young girls. Velvet bags
trimmed with metallic lace and fringe
are liked by older women. Such bag
should be carefully. shaped so that the
velvet is not too much gathered up by
the draw-string at the top, and should be
lined with white satin or some very pale
shade.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

the day when stop Is made for refresh
ment TIE Parisienne, like the English
woman believes in refreshments and rest,
and many moments are spent pleasantly
in tearooms. where eyes may be rested
nerves claimed and quoted and bodies
relaxed while a cup of tea or some other
exhilarating, "pick-me-up" is sipped-mo-
ments which the American shopper would
never think of snatching from the mad
pursuit of bargain hunting.
On the Bots and at the charming out
Of-door restaurants Doyon'S on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
Chinese Slippers for Boudoir Wear.

9 MARTER even than the coquettish
~ French mules with their pointed toes
and precarious high heels. are now the
funny, fiat-soled shoes that ladies OF
high degree wear in China In the days
when the feet of Chinese women were
not allowed to grow beyond the size OF
childhood these soft silken slippers were
the only sort that could be borne on The
tortured little feet. The Chinese slippers
are really delightfully."- comfortable and
very pretty, too-in delicate shades of silk
embroidered with flower patterns in gay
pinks, greens and yelows.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
Pretty Motor Bonnet.

A MONG the latest motor bonnets are
a airy and very fascinating models,
made entirely of pleated frills. some
broad. others narrow. In one case the
ruff1es were made of blue and white
ribbon. attached to a thin gauze foun-
dation and cleverly stiffened with wire
to keep crisply pleated. Between each
row of frills a fold of blue satin was
set, and the little bonnet fitted the
head closely, being tied beneath the
chin with blue ribbon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

else they are curiously spotted in a con-
trastMg color. They are used singly
and in pairs. and are always so arranged
as to slant up at a daring angle far be-
yond the crown Often they are so
broad as to encircle the entire crown. the
tips meeting above the top of the crown
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

across a felt table top. One moves his
peg on a particular railroad according
to the arch his ball is shot through The
mileage between cities Is given and one
soon becomes as conversant with routes,
distances and stops as commercial
taveler.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
Another Good Geographical Game:

THERE seems no reason why any OF
] us should be disconnected when
somebody asks what the capital OF Ne
yada is or which is the farthest west
Toledo or Cleveland: these little matters
are so clearly demonstrated by various
good geographical games that while away
winter evenings most pleasantly. The
newest idea of this sort is railroad
game. On an upright board is a large
map of the United States with three
great railroad lines stretching across IT,
the cities along the route being repre-
scented by small holes in which pegs may
be inserted. There are three arches cut
in the base of the board and through
these arches billiard balls are rolled
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

This pretty frock shows the basque effect in the
bache of the blouse being gathered into the skirt
Lace shows the neck and the ashs the waist
the used for the underseeves Velvet in self
diagonal closing of the bodice and the short
sleeves. There double unc butontrmmed hung
undersk of velvet Any pretty wooden material would be
pretty for this either plain stripes. Hat of velvet self
tone with gold tissue roses is with this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

xx
One of the odd effects resulting from
the East Indian styles is the combination
Of dra-ed and knotted sash and coat
cut on formal tailored lines. Several tai
lormades Of dark serge, noted at the
Grand PriX. though trimmed in the con-
ventional way with button and satin
faced revers, had broad. soft sashes knot
ted over the coat at the waist line, the
sash hanging almost to the knees at one
side OF the back. These sashes are really
prettier when worn with the graceful
Indian TUNES, or with satin suits which
do no. seem as uncompromisingly tai
lored and mannish in suggestion as tai
lored wear OF serge or ratine Satin
suits are much the vogue, and very chic
are some of these little models, which
make the figure look especially trim and
slender when the lines of the costume
are good and the material rich.
Satin frocks in tailored style have
short-waisted bodices with a fiat plaat;ng
set below the high draped belt, and
straight skirts trimmed with three scant
puff1ngs run along both edges with cord
ing. Puffings, cordings and fringes-
frnges innumera ble-mark the beginning
of the Victorian era in dress. and these
trimmings hold their own in spite of the
onslaughts Of the gaudy colors and
voiuminous draperies of the oriental style
influence.
One Of the prettiest styles seen on the
Rue de Paris at Trouville was the little
silk coat worn over lingerie gowns Fol
some reason or other these coats have
not been taken up by the masses, but
almost every smartly dressed woman In
Paris numbered such coat among hel
wearables this summer. Over frocks OF
white or cream lingerie stuff, and Worr
with hats and sunshades to match, these
gay little coats were delectable and the
long tails at the back invariably lem
height to the figure. These coats have
been retained in favor for autumn and
made of black satin, they are worn owe,
little tailored frocks of the same materia
or black and white striped wool fabric
with puffings of the satin at the knees.
All the photographs on today's page
have been enlarged from snap shot:
taken at the Grand PriX. and every de
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

jeweled case stocked with monogrammed
cigarettes.
The handsomest of the fancy reticules
come from Paris. where neither time
nor expense is spared to turn out luxuri-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

LII summer long the
styles that will
rule America in
the autumn are in
the making in
Paris. New ideas
are launched by
the couturiers In
the spring and lit
tie by little these
ideas are winnow-
ed. the wheat from
the chaff, leaving
features that have
ancy and that will
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

Many new waists are finished at the
waist-line with wide crushed girdles
Trimmings are applied to some, such as
small buttons, lace motifs and metallic
braid They are usually made to overlap
at the back with fancy ornament finish.
Latest approved suits from Paris have
coats slightly longer, but this fashion is
not yet fully confirmed. and coat lengths
may be the same Sas last year or slightly
longer and still DO reasonably well within
the fashion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
ZzEAzXR BAGy--
/ZaAe ChazZ22z16 Girls

a little gold lace and gold cord handle,
half a yard of brocade will make a
charming reticule for theater use. The
metallic laces and nets enter largely into
the making of the French bags and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17
NOTES AND NOTIONS.
A Polo Bag to Match the Polo Coat.

THE very latest notion IN athietic logs
is a roomy Hamburger reticuie,
shaped like the smart anairs OF emproiu.
cred silk. brocade or velvet. but maze Oh
polo cloth like the big coat for motoring
or athletic wear. These big. soft blanket
like coats of course have capacioYs
nockets. but putting gloves and other ar
t;cles in the pocket spoils the straight,
narrow lines of the coat; so the bag made
of the coat material and hung on long
cords which are looped over the shoulder
in the approved fashion is a most prac-
tical and satisfactory idea.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-09-17

Long tunic effects are much to be seen
IN new separate skirts, while the pleated
Insets AT the seams give more fullness
required. %