Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-02-12

/ SHdiliN Sidlfted iCfGSS the
Another Illustration shows the back of
similar suit, The material in this case
being gun metal Gray serge. The braid
| headed by piping, q black satin. forms
a graceful skirt trimming and also band
/ trimming on ~" bottom OF the coat oval
| ornaments o. black soutache alternating
with the straight bands at back and front
The feature of this suit. however. * the
sailor collar Of black satin and almost
covered with the broad braid Sailor col
lars ar" to lie the :ad this Summer ohe
sees them on The early models in coats
/ irocks and GlouseS. and sometimes ]ne
fronts of the collar are carried down 10
/ form lapel> surpice band trimmings.
\ dainty little runabout suit pictured
! has a sailor collar CT satin matching me
kaffir brown collar Of the St1it material
{ The fronts OF this collar. as the photc-
/ graph shows. extend downward 10 tolih
! flat shawl reverS. The lines OF this SUIT
are exceedingly. graceful. the httie coat
| curvns in The least tit 10 outline me
! figure without being in any sense a iltte9
model. Tie trimming Of scl-coloTcd brand
! is simple. yet rich. and any woman WIN
! "A little skill! H. reedlewook could copy the
! braided pattern.
| The arrangement of the braiding on this
skirt suggests panels. shorter al the sides
! than at hack aad front. rms X oA Oh
! the style features OF IN" new sprung SUITS"
( Though skirts are in themselves quite
! straight and simple, the trimmings often
give the idea Of Panels or tunic, and
! front and side panels in different lengths
are the fad. Often folds are added at the
| bottom 10 initiate overfanSmS tunes
! but the skirts o. these conventional tai
| lored suits invariably cut all in one
| piece.
The new skirts also are d little wider
than those of the winter. The extreme
no nd
! and a-half s!sir:s which some of the
| French couturiers sought to Introduce,
and now the pendulum is beginning 10
swing the other way. Not far. Tor me
| narrow and rather short skirt has been
found particularly well suited to the sort
| of costume which IS donned for street,
shopping and business wear. and women
will not give it up readily. But the skirts
of the best models now are at least two
and half Yards around the foot and
slightly longer than the very abbreviated
| models of last season. a SKIRT must be
short enough to escape the ground. IL one
! is TO have any comfort in 1t out OF DOORS
| if may even show the ankles. II they are
slender and the foot is snail and Well
| shaped: but when more inches are Topped
| off the effect is dangerously apt to be
| grotesque and ungainly. particularly If
| the wearer have the least inclination to-
| ward embonpoint.
Some of the new skirts would really be
! hut two wards around were it not for the
/ cleverly INTRODUCED pleats which the tai
Tors put in at the sides of d front or back
| nanel or below some trimming motif and
which. while lending roouiness at the
! bottom are pressed so fiat that they do
not show at all except when the wearer
steps.
| One of the most striking new features
| of spring tailored wear is the use OF the
tablier, or sash panel at the hack- SaShes
are likely to uundate fashion, so popu-
!! lar have they all Of {, sudden become. As
ribbon sashes are scarcely possible with
conveniently correct tailored wear. taD-
liers of the material lined with SATIN are
| used, and these straight paneis-usuallE
about ten inches broad-hang straight
down the back OF the skirt from the
waist line. Sometimes there Is one panel
to the knee-or to the hem Oh the skirt'
sometimes there are two. one over the
other If the skirt is trimmed with braid
! the panel may have Il band of wide braid
at dts lower edge; or one panel may De
! cut straight across and the otne.-the
upper one-have blunt point. sometimes
this effect is rather unpleasant; as, Tor
instance, in the case of woman VINO
strolled up Jtn avenue the otner allel
| noon. She wore a neatly hitting suit OF
| tsn-coIored broadcloth with a narrow
| skirt and very short jacket, coming
| scarcely below the hip at the back over
the back OF the skirt hung panel of the
material, about five inches wide and rail-
ing lust below the hips. where 1t was
finished with tasse. The movement OF
this tasseed panel back and forth as the
Young woman walked was absurciy ike
the switching of a cows tail. and there
were appreciatve sr1ns on some Oh the
faces back of her.
X
Next to navy blue. which is the color
for smart tailored suits in Paris now
gray in all the shades from silvery smoke
to gun metal promises to be much used.
There is a light metal gray which is par