New-York tribune., 1911-11-19
Paris. November s


The day OF the summer Grand PriN races
signals the departure of the grand world
% their country and seaside houses: In as
.,orked a manner the day Of the autumn
Grand Prix announces their return 10 town
end the beginning Of the winter social sea-
,on This year the day Of the great autumn
,.ce was unusual from the clothes point
=, view. for while as splendid costumes
os over were worn. no eCcentriCities were
6,snlayed nor especially new features.
There seems a pause in the mad race for
rotoriety on the part Of several prominent
designers, and so. for a short space OF
time the woman whose mind is set on
clothes may rest in peace Not for long,
hovever, for the busy brains Of the de-
sgners know no rest. and already, with
their last productions Stil en- evidence,
they are busy with pencil and scissors
evolving new fantasies that will be sent
70 the Riviera 10 create sensation there.
The passing Of the tailored costume for
smart afternoon functions mentioned be-
fore IN these columns, leads 10 a pleas
ing variety, especially noticeable in the
"ave o'clock crowd Of women at a fash
ionable tea room. The redingOte gown is
charming and, If we'll planned. seems as
well suited 10 a short figure as 10 tall
one. Zach house has its own manner Of
producing long garments under this name,
but in all the main feature is the length Of
H. entirely covering the skirt of the dress
beneath. Ii is a gown in itself
The modes vary so much in small details
at the different houses that in passing from
one 10 another. on a tour OF inspection,
there seems an indescribable incoherence.
For instance, in the matter of sleeves of
afternoon and out-of-door gowns and cos
tunes. one cannot go far wrong for every
sort is worn and Of every length. Tight
from shoulder to wrist. they point far over
the hand or slightly full at the arm holes;
they are gathered again into a wide wrist
band, after the manner OF a workman's $
blouse. A modified gigot sleeve is in high
favor also. buttoned close to the arm from
wrist 10 elbow. and the "chemise" sleeve
OF the last several seasons is still liked and
IS worn in every convenient length, gener-
ally over a tight lace undersleeve. But, in
spite Of this difference in modes, all tastes
are merged into harmony in the use Of the
seasons materials, such as velvet. plain
and in minute stripes. or ratine, also varied
between a plain colored and a striped sur
face. and in different degrees Of thickness
The mingling of different materials and
trimmings is carried to an extraordinary
degree. Moire, corded silk satin and fine
wools are combined with velvet in such a
manner that ii is difficult to define which
material composes the costume or dress
and which is the trimming.
Above all, the winter season is the one
devoted TO evening gowning. The ordinary
and greatly overdone yelling methods are
quite demode; though beaded transparent
materials are in vogue, they are Of quite
another order than those Of last season.
Beaded fringes in black, white and plain
and mingled colors are IN some manner
used on every costume devoted 10 evening
wear. dinner gown Of black mousseline
de sole is beautifully adorned with hand
embroidery of black and pale-tinted jet
tubes and tiny glass beads. The overdress
IS richly fringed with a melange of all.
Charming evening dresses for young
women. ineffably youthful. show lace
founced skirts and a lace draped corsage.
Generally the lace IS arranged in such a
manner that It points over the shoulder
70 form the sleeves. The tiny. stiffly
puffed sleeve Of a generation or more ago is
quantity chic This should accompany a
corsage pointed in front and covered with
eul 10 IeIIslBm sUl 10 sSuIdBIp peUlUMs
dress The pointed or rounded scallops
OF lace flounces are edged with a more OF
less wide or narrow beaded fringe. The
effect is charming, and the weight Of II
lends a clinging quality that preserves
the still fashionable slender silhouette
In the queer mingling Of periods this
season many Of the great houses copy
gowns pictured in old paintings. A model
called Maria Leszczynska," taken exactly
from a gown worn by this unhappy wom-
an. is really charming in its lovely rose
colored velvet, embroidered in silk flowers
nestled in silver leaves Skirt and cor
cage are trimmed 10 match and there are
lace "sabot" undersleeves.
A mingling of furs is well illustrated
in a long garment Of unspotted white er-
mine. The neck is finished with a waist
deep collar Of dark blue velvet embroid-
cred with gold and silver threads In
raised clusters Of grapes and their leaves.
over this turns a wide. round collar OF
gray fox fur, and the ermine sleeves are
gathered into deep cuffs Of the charming
gray fur A Louis XIII redingote Of taupe
fur. set in tiny squares and wide
bordered with sable. has great revers
faced with sable and edged with narrow
line Of ermine. while an immense bag
muf OF ermine fur is striped three times
with sable animals, hanging heads and
long tails Such coats are lined with n