New-York tribune., 1911-03-19
Paris, March s. 1911.

....r ,beir eclipse for season or two ny
s,,r,ed gowns worn with a separate
so"e taIlered costumes have returned
ga Through the daytime hours they
u -" I'm everywhere. and how swagger
m' 10 with their short, straight hanging
'n., .. barely full enough at the hem TO be
ssnmfortable-indced, woman with long
c0' must needs suppress it-and the
.,v short coat so well fitted about the
that II seems one garment with the
n', .,r,, All manner of materials go into the
Nm Of these smart daytime costumes,
"'a -,,e from Scotch and Irish tweeds to
.nsnarent etamine. unlined save for a
.ra transparency, silk voile or mousse
lire de sore.
r,a material Of the greatest elegance for
..,ason,e tailored costumes is heavy white
ardod silk The surface of this silk is
,..u.ifully lustrous under the sunlight.
.nd ,opped By a gay fiowered hat of fine
",anr straw. with black velvet. with the
.roner accessories Of lingerie blouse. col
a,.d shoe tops, paraso and whole-wristed
S,oyss Of white suede, il makes a beautiful
eos,ume II is equally charming in the pale
,o,es Of gray and tan. This corded silk
rromiSeS 10 ldht lI!t IIdNt Va Al'' "'''tN
rojre which Parisiennes wore last year
for tailored costumes. and which. in spite
AZ its beauty and durability. did not reach
-. great vogue. The foulard silk, woven
sspecIally for tailored costumes. when
jailed 10 make its mark last year. appears
1, great quantities among the novelties OF
,,is season. One must not be misled by
this name into the supposition that this SILK
is the foulard of long ago. on the contrary
II Is new silken fabric resembling
woollen texture in weave and surface. and
while Il appears in plain colors-all shades
~ them-it is seen also in narrow stripes,
set an inch or so apart. Of color strongly
contrasting with the color of the founda-
,on on black. dark blue. tabac brown
and violet this raised. threadlke stripe
ike a cord-appears in white, bright red.
yellow and sometimes a pretty mingling o.
several colors There is little Of the eccen-
,rc disposition OF stripes so much in vogue
last year. and the result is one Of far
greater refinement.
Little silk bolero Jackets Of taupe coloTed
silk and satin are smart. and are Kept
ascinatingly fresh by pleated frills OF fine
white null edging the wide collar and
,.yers and falling from the three-quarter
sleeves. The revers touch in front without
closing. so a pretty glimpse is gained OF
the trimming Of the little gown ii tops.
This little garment promises TO reach again
hs od,ime popularity-a popularity it held
for an unusual length of time. 1t is such a
useful adjunct 10 a costume. such pract- /
al one and il is capable Of such a variety
i adornment that il deserves the favor
accorded il among the models for spring
and summer Extremely chic was one OF
black corded silk. made on lines of perfect
simplicity. A deep collar pointed Direc-
,oIre revers and Directoire cuffs on the
short sleeves were merely faced with the
material and edged with a large silk COW
,,ei cord on each side Of the front. be-
low the revers, are set two large hand
0rner Of the cuffs. This is equally service
able and smart worn with white lingerie
gowns or 10 turn a black house dress into
4 street costume.
Thus far this season no absolutely new
mode has been declared by the designers, !
we except the absurd trousers skirt at
tempted by several houses-an attempt
that reused violent discussion. while the
authors Of il listened smilingly. with
tongue in cheek" There seems a curious
s,agnation in the creative powers OF those
who control the fashions. a gown, a cos
tune, a garment Of last year may be per-
tectly we'll worn again this season with