Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1911-10-01
NEW AND OLD IN MILLINERY
Craving for Novelty Satisfied by
Ancient Shapes.
NOBBY STYLES FROM TORIES
Rainbovr riot of Color in Feathers,
Planes, Artificial Flowers and
Ribbons-wIde Brims and
Long Pins.



To satisfy the Unsuitable craving OF the
novelty seeker for something new, is
difficult task, but the trade seems TO have
accomplished Il satisfactorily. II is true
that something new is often only some
thing old revived, but that does not ex-
Guide & from the category OF novelties.
As a matter Of fact, there Is quite de-
rnand for old-fashioued materials. colors
and contours. There IS, for example, the
poke. and then the new close-fitting tur-
hans with their monumental crowns bark
one back TO the forties. although in those
days hoadsizes were not as large as they
arc now Plain felts are again in vogue,
and vclour- promise TO be near the top
Of the bsst sellers. IL is astonishing how
many velour hats one sees under the hot
August sun and worn with the most sum
mer gowns. These arc devoid OF trim
ming, having a silk cord only around the
base OF the crown, and are not only in
white or black. but in vivid oolors, such
as purple and blue.
Piumage plays the principal part In the
trimmings Of the early fall models Breast
plunage giving more or less the effect OF
fur is not by any means set aside, and
IS likely TO be very popular. especially
for toques, but the leading firms prefer
10 use Iorg soft conteaux for the pur-
pose, particularly in variegated and
shaded oolors. A very handsome toque
has the brlm covered with six-inch long
conteaux Of this sort, showing rather deep
! mothsr-of-peArl tints. combined with a
full crown OF kingfisher blue velvet and
q handsome fancy in iophophore
ClusteFs OF Ribbons.
In some of the toques the effect Of a
fini crown is obtained by loops of Wide
MORE ribbon. set up erect In a cluster so
, as TO conceal the foundation entirely. II
is the fashion 10 match the ribbon 20 the
color OF the dress or suit and TO select
velvet of q contrasting coior-often black
Tor the velvet brim.
CroEs-cut bands OF silk or satin un-
raveled at the edges are being used by
many milliners instead Of ribbon for, hats
trimmed with large bows. cockades and
poufs. Shot material is usually chosen,
which gives a soft plumage IN effective
Variesated tones. The felt travelling hats
assume the form OF the Panama which
they are almost entirely supersedlng.
white and different shades OF light
brown, channels and gray are most seen.
There is a tendency to match them to the
suit with which they are worn and a
favorfte trimming is a long conteaH made
of leather-omeraId green, royal blue, or
white-stuck IN a band Of velvet Of the
same color II green or blue be chosen,
Or else one Of white leather.
Feather Trimming.
At this season considerable attention is
always fastened on feathers, both ostrich
and fancies. and this season is no excep-
tion. for excluding some fruit and a few
velvet flowers and fancy ribbon bow ef-
fects, feathers are used almost entirely.
There are many beautiful ostrich eff
fects. sometimes another feather being
introduced. A new combination Is os-
trich and goura, for while paradise and
ostrich are most often combined. this can
not truthfully be REGARDED as a new idea
One OF the newest ostrich clusters Is com
posed OF one long full feather, which may
be curled or uncurled. and this bursts
into a cluster Of three or more tips at the
the end. This fancy is made, as indeed
most OF them are 20 take an upward
line on hat. but of course at an angle
and not perpendicular. although there are
other feathers made 10 stand up a Ia
militaire At the front or side OF a tower
ing toque. There are many curiously
shaped clusters OF small tips and flat
tened pom-poms. from the center OF which
a queerly twisted feather. usually UNI
curled and in two or moro shades. arises.
Tiny and medium-siEed tips are much I'm
evidence, as well as long feathers. feather
bands. fringes and ceckade effects.
Combination Effects ana CoIoru.
Paradise IL very fashionable. particu-
larly In colors. and this. by the way, II
true also OF ostrich. There are bush ef-
fects OF curied paradise. as well as the
beautiful dropping tails IN natural and
artificial coioring. Paradise must take
tho place Of aiSrettes 10 a certain extent,
although there are some clever imitation
aigrettes. blondine for example, numidi
and peacock. One Of the latest novelties
- metallized paon or peacock feather.
II IL prettiest IN steel and bronze cover
ings and Is used iavishly on many OF the
sinartest French hats. There are beau
ftful willow novelties in all the accepted
colorings OF the season. for the demand
for willow Is very strong.
0oura IL being shown and IL havfnp
quite some sale IN gray and IN dyed col
ors. VultuTe. too, is IN the limeliKht II
is used both eurled and straight, and. OF
course, while much coarser In texture
has much the appearance OF ostrich. par.
ticularIy when curled.
Quite as important in their sphere ar,
wings Very large ones are favored, Al
may be seen BY a glance. White wing
as well II Is a fad to use several wing
OF Individual color together. rather thar
have several oolors appearing in the sam,
4 wing.
Wide Brtm Hats.
A large number OF the hats are yer,
much wider than they are deep. Wei
nigh thirty inches OF breadth Is attAine,
by some OF the very largest. which do no
measure much more than half that from
front to back. Sometimes the brIm 4
wider on one side then the other and tn
wider side IL often more pointed than Tn
other When this is the case one sid
may turn up while the other curves down
but not always 20 the same extent. Tn
crowns Of such hats are almost invar
iably domed.
One OF the largest shown Il IN the YER
darkest shade OF fasian brown. the velve
with which II is covered Is stretche
without an apparent fold Cths few neoes
sary 20 model Il over the crown belnl