New-York tribune., 1911-09-10
Paris, August %.


The liking for one-piece street costumes
j. ,-a-,ilv evidenced in dresses Of the new
~ blue and black fallle silks. Handsome
a. themselves. no trimming is necessary
S.,.o,d q corded finish 10 the large collar
"a sleeves and one OF the charming belt
- sash arrangements OF which the name
=. laeion The absence OF the white Jabot
- srnnlied by neck ruffs made Of varying
..,srials Indeed. anything, thick or thin,
!, messed into service for neckwear-
,sstbers. marabout, pleated tulle and
-r1sd or friled tafetas Generally speak
i-e these pretty adjuncts are short fasten-
,,r under a ribbon bow in front. back or
:, one side. as one prefers. The pretty
..s,reable tafTetas are shirred. frilled and
80 into sets OF cape collars. mantelets,
,rrrs and toques. These things. worn with
/. costume OF black satin or charmeuse, or
ons Of pale beige or biscuit hued silk wolfe,
are denciously chic.
sgirrs OF street costumes are no longer
sxtravagantly short. It is necessary, how
ever. that a skirt should absolutely clear
~. ground. even when stepping from the
sidewalk AS French leader OF the modes
s1pressed II. one should insist on a skirt
short enough 10 clear the ground or retain
the grace OF a trailing one, which is al
ravs easily lifted above. short petticoat
Among new gowns shown at the August
ooenings many were noted with underskrts
Of cloth or silk, the former laid in side or
box pIeats and the latter trimmed with
rlfFes. In several cases with one deep ac-
cordiCn pleated lounCe. over them were
stretched tightly short overskirts in apron
fashion pointed or round, reminding one
ir-es stibly OF the tie back skirts OF fifteen
years ago. Generally. these apron over
skirts are drawn high at the back, allowing
all of the back breadths Of the underskirt
70 be seen.
Except for travelling costumes, which are
severely plain. two and three materials
figure in the composition Of one gown. an
economical fashion. as a velvet silk or
cloth coat may be pressed into duty with
several skirts.
Fringe continues 20 edge the hens OF
coats below other trimming Of braid. en-
broidery and fur, and fringe plays its part
also on sleeves, corsaFes and draped over
skirts. \ costume Of soft white serge had
a short. round. tunic overdress edged with
a wide fringe Of SAKE blue wool. the blouse
bodice having accessories Of blue ratine
and blue vanished leather belt A cos
tune made entirely Of white ratine was
trimmed on its double skirts with a deep
fringe made Of the material slashed into
tiny strands. Chenille fringe is desirable
for trimming gowns of velvet and satin.
An odd use Of fl was noted on a long. tight
coat sleeve. trimming IL from the elbow
n the wrist. An apron overskirt Of hand
some black Chantiliy lace had its deep
round scailops outlined with a three-inch
VIDE chenille fringe and a bertha Of the
same lace was finished in the same man.
ner
The favorite triple skirt effect is easily
achieved by the bordered dress materials
One. recently seen. made of pale tan col
ored. soft woollen stuff. had three inch
wide border stamped with black figures
on q deep tan colored ground. Strips Of
this border were taken edged with black
ball fringe. and attached 20 the skirt under
an inch wide tuck. The effect was exactly
the same as three separate skirts.
Borders on the new wools are IN exces-
sively strong contrasts; for instance.
bright cerise in three-inch borders is de-
signed 70 trim a gown OF finely striped
black and white. and border Of bright