davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

over the arms and falls over the back,
like drapery. This gown. by Ca!lot
SoetIrs, is of rose and silver hrocade
over Il petticoat of black satin, and silver
1rapery, which opens at the center front
in the fashion which is approved this
wear. This gown has d tiesh-colored chif-
fon lining in the bodice. the draped satin
which swathes bust and waist line being
attached to the chantilly and not to this
fiesh-colored lining at all.
Impressive was the adjective which
came to mind in first attempt to
describe the brilliant costumes in the
golden horshoe at the first night of Met
ropolitan opera. EelyetS, ricn laces. fur,
the CLINT of metallic brocade-aIl these
united 10 give an effect OF sumptuOus
splendor, and it was notable that il
season of bright coiors there should
have been so many gowns combining
black, white or gray with silver. gold or
diamante trimmings. Christmas week,
except for the entertainments arranged
for the young people, is not especially
gay in town, for the smart set iS out in
the country doing its dining. dancing
and auction playing after days devoted to
motoring, skating, ice-yachting and Other
winter sports. Evening gowns worn al
these house parties are very distinguish
ed, and, of course, during the week fol-
lowing Christmas the opera III town is
the chief attrac action.
= y
X dinner gown that will be worn at Il
Christmas house party is gorgeous af-
fair in black and yellows-pictured on the
seated figure. Mellow is far ard away
the most fashionable color just now. and
is seen in all shades. from pale canary
tint just verging off cream to deep, splen-
did orange. The dinner gown in the pho
nh hac
tunic draped over petticoat Of gold bro
cade yelled with bla ok chiffon, and around
the foot OF the skirt are velvet roses in
various shades Of yellow. The black
| chiffon bodice is sewn with topaz-colored
, beads and pallettes, and the effect is
very brilliant indeed.
| Another yellow gown is pictured in
the bridesmaid gown which is one of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
The Own Particular Season Of the Debutante--.
Charming Dancing Frocks for Christmas
Week Cotillons Snowy Norfolk Suits
Of Corduroy for Younger Women----
Revival Of the Belt Buckle

that perhaps the makers feel ashamed
to ask substantial prices The debutante
frocks. also. are guiltless of the pailletted
and diamante trimmings, the fur gold
lace and velvet that make ord nary even
ing gowns so expensive. Two of these
pretty little dancing frocks were eX-
hibited III Washington shop window
the other day. One frOck was palest pink.
the other palest blue chiffon. combined
with white chiffon. and the frocks We're
made all in one piece: that is, the little
shortwaisted bodice was joined to the
straight. narrow skirt and the dress was
all ready to slip on over a foundation of
thin satin. India silk or perhaps a sip
made of an outworn party frock, cleaned
and cut on straight, narrow lines.
The white chiffon frock had a deep
hem of pale pink chiffon above which the
white chiffon was laid in three deep
tucks. The top of the skirt was gath
cred slightly into the high girdle of tuck
ed white chiffon. The suTplice bodice had
rather close fitting and quite short sleeves
finished with pink chiffon hens and at
the front Of the modest little round
decolIetage was a fiat bow of pink chif-
fon intended as a background for
pretty brooch. The blue and white frock
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
Theater Caps and Bandeaux

the jewels. Fine laces. such as malines
and Spanish, through which the hair
shows, are lovely also, and velvet or
ribbon. either black or color. twisted
and knotted at the front. makes a
smart finish as well as the Treaths
of tiny flowers.
Other coqUettish little theater caps are
made of the metal laceS. as they arc be-
coming, practical. and really beautiful.
AS rule, they are made TO fit the head
closely. and are many times without lin
ings. The brim is sometimes made OF two
or three rows OF lace. and some of the
new ores have small cabochors of lace or
either side O. the back brinn, with mctal
fringe tasscls which arc sometimes six
or seven inches in length. Ribbon flowers
are used trimming, or uncut velvet
ribbon in some of the stronger shades al
red or blue is draped around the base Of
the crown. ending in Il little bow i'll the
direct front.
Plain gold and silver gauZe ribbons are
largely used for fancy hair bands. n pop
u}ar hair garniture IS made of small roses
of pink satin ribbon with crystal dew
drops the petals, with a knotted bow
Of ribbon at the side. There are number
less fancy gilt and silver landings OF
varying widths, many of them jeWeled. OF
to which one may add flat-sided glass or
porcelain jewels to match any color dress,
which, when mounted on bands OF white
or pale colOred chiffon, Or tuile Il tribe
wider, are most attractive. Some of the
heavier passementeries are prettier UNI
lined. especially if the edges are uneven
Bands of Chiffon or fine net embroiderec
in jet, steel. metal, opalesceHt, satin anc
the crystal beads, and lined with gold OF
silver with q color. are effective fol-
evening wear.
Heavy laces in effective patterns are
often becoming, especially if ones hair is
the gown may pc used. Ply -ags of black
velvet are used to edge the lace landings
when the hair is light. \ half a yard "f
tulle, white, or q color to match the gown
if very pale, crushed 10 form q narrow
band, is airy looking and becoming to
youthful face. The ends are tied III
rCSette al the side.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
Girls Dancing Dresses.

CHIFFON in almost all instances Is the
~ favored material for dancing dresses
Solid coioTs IS well as printed noral oe-
signs are used in developing dresses III
this material. The foundations are VI
satin. in. self or hafmonizins colors. and
the chiffon is invariably arranged in tune
form. The peasant sleeve is used In
dresses of this type. although the set-ih
sleeve, giving the peasant sleeve effect. IS
also used. Many of the dresses have the
sleeves made in one with the waist, with
the trimming SO arranged that the sever
ity OF the shoulder line is relieved. Bead
trimmings as Well as metal effects are
used largely for this purpose. Fringes of
beads are used to quite extent and
make a pretty finish for the foot or the
TUNES. Rosebuds of satin ribbon are
among the attractive trimmings for dane
ing frocks. and are used to catch the
draperieS of chiffon near the foot OF the
skirt.
Many of the most attractive dancing
frocks are trimmed with lace f1ounces,
either arranged at the foot of the skirt
or sometimes three f1ounces are used,
With the satin foundation skirt showing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
has dane

has danced at enough cotlllons TO acquire
q bushel basketful OF costly, delightful
gimcracks. and ahead of her is the gay
round of holiday week observation-disclosures
cons, dinner dances and cotillons ar
ranged especially for the younger set
not to speak of the various weddings at
which she will act as bridesmaid or maid
of honor.
The little debutante frocks are exquisite.
and il is remarkable what numbers of
these Little jeunne file dresses may be
picked up nowadays in the better class
shops at really moderate prices. The
designs are simple and such very
small quantity of material is required
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

six ready for Il Christmas week we'd
ding out on Long Island. All the
gowns are precisely alike. and AS they
are to be worn by six tail slender young
women, the little trains will look very
stately and graceful. The gown pictured
is of cream crepe de chine with border
pattern in yeilowS and light browns. The
skirt drapery is cleveriy ARRANGED and
the fall OF fringe from tunic and bertha
adds 10 the graceful effect Tucked in the
corsaSe Is a big yellow silk rose and the
hat-a tarinS brim picture shape of
VeniSe lace. faced with black velvet. is
trimmed with roses in shades OF yellow
The costume is completed by long gloves
OF embroidered silk in a shade of the
palest yellow. Cream or pale yellow
gloves are considered smarter this sea-
son than the pure white gloves, which do
not blend as tremendously with the tan
seam and tawny tints that are fashion
able as do the more yellowish sort.
Miss Margaret Anglin in her new play
wears a charming frock in one of the
new brown shades, and more than one
woman has determined to have a frock
exactly like ii for home wear during the
festivities of holiday week. Over cream
satin is draped chiffon cloth of the love-
liest brown shade-rlot exactly taupe and
not warm enough for tobacco brown. The
drapery opens in front over a long panel
of gold lace and at either side of this
gold lace. in the bodice, is q draped rever
of soft brown velvet, the revers being
attached at the shoulder line to deep
sailor collar Of the velvet. Bodice and
skirt are divided by Il girdle of the velvet,
and directly in front, over the gold lace
panel. is a big buckle of gilt which gives
inexpressible style and chic to the simple
vet elegant little gown. Belt buckles are
ali the rage again, but to make them look
smart there must be q vest effect above
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

rangement of the flowers on her gown.
which was of delicate chiffon. A spray
of small flowers wreathed the round neck.
another encircled the waist, and a band
of them was placed around the skirt
There is nothing prettier for the young
girl than the fiower-trimmed dress.
a pretty red party gown, which is very
charming in its simplicity, is fashioned
OF China silk. and is cut with round
neck, With sleeves just above the elbow
The trimming consists of bands of rich
dark red embroidery. which gives the
dress Just the riAht distinguishing touch
of richness and beauty. China silk il
almost as sheer AS chiffon, and when
worn over a soft petticoat OF princess
slip it hangs III graceful lines.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
Novel Accessories.

Corsage ard millinery flowers are as
variable these days as though burbank
We're at work among them, getting new
varieties. One of the most attractive Is
a large pink rose, which has each petal
outlined with tiny gold beads. Another
flower, or ornament having some semi
blance of one, is made entirely OF loops
of beads clustered together-bronze ana
violet and gold and blue and rose
4 very odd and pretty noyely for the
hat is a great chestnut burr, open, with
the "burrs" represented by brown fur
and the inside part OF greenish yellow
velvet, very realistically arranged.
Ribbon in all colors has fringe sewed
along one edge. This is excellent a
hat trimming and is inexpensive. 1t
comes in several widths.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
Dressing Sacques and Negliges.

brought well over 10 the left side.
The average length OF the pegliee Goa {
is just below the knees. but some of the
latest models extend to within a few
inches of the edge of the skirt only a
glimpse of the fancy petticoat being see.
Some of these very long garments have
iuffles OF lace about two inches wide
around the deep collar and entire outer.
edge. Some models designed to slip Oyer
the head are worked out in crepe d.
chine and thin silks, with hand-embroiCi-
cred yoke arrangements and long soft
draperfes hanging from the collar line ia
ack.
Simple garments made of China silk or
lingerie have deep collars lace trimmed,
with long pointed ends which extend TO
the low side fastening. Many OF the eIab-
crate tea gowns are cut along these lines
with extensive use OF hand embroidery
and rich laces and insertions.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
Notes and Novelties.
The Christmas Gift to a Man.

WHEN you rack your brains 10 think
or something acceptable for Uncle
rom or Cousin Charlie, why not decide
On coliapsible drinking cup in a neat
ied,her case, which may be tucked into a
vest pocket Men are even more 4astidi-
GUS than women about drinking out of
PUBIC glasses and cups. and often the
desire for cooling drink sends a man
INTO saloon where at least his beverage
is provided in clean glass Colapsible
cups may be had now in silver, and il
desired, the owners monogram or name
may be engraved on one side The little
leather case is not more than half an
inch high. Another acceptable gift for a
man is a pair OF folding vest pocket
scissors, which also 1T into little leather
case. These are not manicure scissors.
but handy little implements which may
be put to score OF uses during the day.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

w FITH the best intentions in the
world. most of us find our
\AI selves in the last two weeks
Wv before Christmas confronted
with = list Of names for each
OF which must he found an appropriate
ana acceptable rerncni brarce. 1t was de
lightcuEy easy. the day after CHRISTMAS,
last year 10 GeciIr tina; this wear all
our gifts should bc begun during the sum
nlcr and that tVc-z thing should be I'm
ished. tissue-paperei and daintify tied
10 ready for delivery weeks before the
festsI day: bat alack for the plans of
mice and men and Christmas gift max
ers They always 20 agleE and il i I,
Thrice lucky December rirSt hat tinds
most Of US With even one land-embrojd-
cred lunch set or crocheted breakfast
Jacket ready to beStov upon an cNpectaut
friend
There are infinite possibilities in ribbon
for the worker who must make fingers
ny during the last fortnight before Christ
mas and one may con oct as expensive
or as low priced "A gift as one pleases-
time, OF course. being the chief cons .dera-
tion at this hurried season. There is no
embroidering, no painst aking inserting Of
lace and very little hemming required in
the ribbon gift. and the soft, rich ma
teriaI with which one works is "ou,.
10 produce something pretty and accept
able unless the job is very badly botched
indeed.
Fancy work and theater bags of ribbon
are especially attractive and three 7ery
dainty ribbon reticules are ri tured The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

bottom except that enough for turning
in is left at the edge.
Hasty ribbon gifts for the traveller may
be attractively made in an evening cover
q bit Of pasteboard the size of visiting
card with lowered ribbon ana attach
flap of flannel holding needles. To the
cardboard is sewed a long tail of Powered
ribbon, inside OF which is layer OF nan,
mel. and I'm and out through the hannel
are run lengths of black and white sew
ing silk or cotton, each length attached
to a needle ready for instant use. The
little case is folded together and tied
with ribbon loops, ready To be slipped IN
q travelling bag.
The Hover basket illustrated is made
of interlaced wires which are Tirst cover
ed with twisted ribbon. Inside OF this
framework is set the jar of table Terms
or flowers.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

between each flounce. Some OF the
crepe meteor dresses in the light evening
shades have quaint puftinSs, shirrings or
pleatings arranged at the foot Of the
skirt The use OF ruffies, etc, does not
in the least interfere with the narrow.
straight lines, as the skirt is made on
the same narrow lines with ruffies as
without The raised waist line is shown
on practically every kind OF a dress, and
this is especially true regarding dancing
frockS.
Some of the prettiest dancing frocks are
made of printed white chiffon with deli
cate bouquet effects and trimmed with
ga shes and bows of Dresden ribbons.
\ Washington society girl recently re-
ceived much praise for the artistic ar
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
A Sachet-Rose for Milady's Wear.

dorm to blush unseen is this latest ad
- junet to my lady's daintiness. TIM
silk roses. perfumed with any desired
sachet powder, come all ready to sew in
the top of the corset. within the top OF Il
sleeve or anywhere, where a bit of per
fume may be concealed to lend its sweet
ness to the costume. These little sachet-
roses come in white and in pink, and "a
set of them would make a charming
Christmas gift for the bride-to-be.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

IT HERE, are Il number OF things III
favor of the new theater caps that
make them extremely popular. The
first. that they can be appropriately worn
i'm Il street car or similar conveyance in
the evening. when one would ordinarily
be obliged 10 wear 4 hat. Then, one can
can have several caps, one for every
gown, for the cost of IL dresSy evening
hat, and. since the cap could not possibly
interfere with anothers view of the
stage, there is not the bother of holding
n hat in ones lap during the perform
ance, nor waiting afterWard in the crush
at the cioakroom, and one may be Ger
tain that her headdress will be as at
tractive at the end as at the beginning
of the evening.
A very pretty cap may be made from
rather large mesh gold or silver net.
In large meshes the effect is less solid
over the hair than smaller mesh A
lining of fine white malines prevents the
metallic net from catching in the hair,
besides relieving any strain on the net
when adjusting the cap. The shape Of
the cap is just half circle. having a
diameter of twentyseven inches. This
head size. twenty-seven inches, may be
made larger or smaller to suit any style
of llairdressng. 1t would be a good plan
to experiment first with cheesecloth. or
some equally thin and cheap material, as
the metallic nets are too expensive to be
cut into recklessly. In cutting be sure to
leave perfect mesh all along the straight
side of the net and do not cut the
threads too close, else they will pull out.
In cutting the malnes lining a quarter
of an inch should be added to the straight
side of the semi-circle. This allowance
a firmer edge. The net and malines
should be basted together around the
edges.
Edge the cap with corals slightly
| rounded over the top. but fiat at the
back. and which measure not quite
three-eighths OF an inch across. First
string them on silVer-gray sewing silk
and then couch down with separate
! thread. About seven dozen are re-
CURED to edge the cap.
The curved side OF the semi circular
piece is plated softly from the middle
to within an inch OF tho ends of the
| straight side. Tack the folds firmly
i pace. The lCueh eugeS oil the net
should be covered with q narrow fac
ing Of double malines. else they will
catch in the hair.
Make a bow knot OF corals at the
front Of the cap to hold the plaiIs flat
For this the cOrals are strung on fine
uncovered tie wire. Slip a coral about
an inch over the end of the wire, bend
tho end back across the fiat side of the
jewel and wind it twice around the
wire close up to the jewel. Cut off. the
extra length. 1t is made secure at
the center by winding the wires about
each other. Try the cap on the head
before sewing the knot in place, so
! that the plaits may be adjusted to
| suit the coiffure of the wearer. The
wire On which the corals are strung
must be couched down firmly between
every two beads, otherwise the jewels
will turn over. FIat-sided turquoise
| jewels with either gold or silver net
are equally pretty. Tiny silk or satin
ribbon roses in any shade to match
!! ones gown or flowers of gold or silver
cloth might be used as effectively as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

tanned. The fluffy rosettes of knottcd
ribbon are added last of all.
Delightful little pincushionS for my
ladys dresser can lie made OF floWered
ribbon and fancy gold ribbon or braid.
Cut circle or heart of cardboard for
the base of the cushion and cover on one
side with the lowered ribbon Now cover
Il long strip of cardboard on the outer
side with gold ribbon and attach it to
the base The box thus formed is filled
with cotton batting. piled in rounded form
above the height of the sides. and over
che top goes piece Of the lowered rib
bon, cut exactly the same size as the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10
Fur Trimming Popular.

A fashionable tailor Is making a lot
of useful ratine and cloth morning tai
lormades which show short skirts, rather
long coats, fur collars and cuffs and
bloused corsages. When fur Is not used
a very original wool trimming is, but il
is very difficult to describe. II reminds
one of gray lambs wool shaved very
closely, and it shows several shades or
the same color. The sleeves of this cos
tune were long and wide near the wrists.
shaped so az to fall almost to point
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

scarf or bertha it may be appiqued TO
plain fine brussels net and used In that
way as a bodice drapery. One of today
illustrations, shows how some old black
chantilly. q French family heirloom, was
utilized with black net to form grace
full scarf which first crosses the top OF
the bodice and then extends outward
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

Challis is out this season in a wonder
full range of colors and patterns, and
many OF tie best pieces have borders,
which make the SmarteSt kind of TRIM
mings. For house which is not up to
the desired standard in warmth, especial
~ in the morning hours, Challis sacqueS
or long negiges with albatroSS l.ningS
are comforts on cold days. The PLAIN
albatross can be brought out to trim
Inquired chailis in the prevalent reversible
style. Many women wear lingerie nesll-
ges the year round with the nelp OF adj
Unstable alba ross Innings. A white lawn
or SWISS sacQue trimmed with lace and
needlework, and with a tinted aloatross
Inning, is thing of comfort and beauty.
Challis dressing Sacques and long neglI-
ges lined throughout with wash silks are
another possibility for houses that are
not hea.ed comfortably at rising hours
The reversible woods, especially the black
and white shepherd checks with reyersi-
BILE sides in solid colorS, make coZy bath
robes and bedroom wrappers. The under
side can be shown in pipings, or in ,apels
and collars and cuffs.
The shortest variety OF dressing sacoue
is usually cut in two pieces. with a seam
down the center-back and butterfly sleeve
cut IN one with the garment Embrofd-
cred scallops follow the outer edge. fin
ished off with narrow valenctennes lace
and trimmed with small rosettes of knot
ted ribbon. The longer varieties continue
to favor the empire effects, with the
pleaied skirt section.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

deIectable debutante frocls OF white
chiffon which is short enough to show
her dainty feet in white six hose and
slippers. The skirt is divided into two
tunics. each finished with a row of deep
scallops, outlined with tiny rhinestones.
The shortWa sted bodice is embroidered
all over with rhinestones, yet this dia-
mante effect is very delicate and not at
all bold or glittering in effect. y Slip of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

was made in much the SAND way except
that instead of the tucks the skirt had
a Little pearl bead embroidery above the
blue chiffon hem, and the Gecolletage was
outlined with two rows of the pearl
beads. Anything more sweetly' simple
than either of these little gowns could
scarcely be imagined and neither one was
priced over S2c
One of the musical comedy stars wears
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-10

HE little debutante
is in the hey day
of her fun and
frolic just now.
The ordeal of her
debut has been
s OFT e n safely
through with early
in December or
late in November
She has attended
her first opera, en-
grand toilette: she