Semi-weekly herald., 1911-05-22
FADs AND FASHIONS.

NEW YORK, May 20--A new era
of popularity seems to be in store for
the separate blouse. One of the lead
ing French dress makers is authority
for the prediction that the next year
will see a great revival of the sepa-
rate blouse and skirt combination
not only so far as the tailored suit
and waist are concerned, but, for other
wear. Regardless of what the future
may bring, the luxurious little blouse
OF sheer stuff and dainty design is n
very essential part of the wardrobe
this spring, and each blouse model
that one sees seems more charming
and most fascinating than the last.
AS the weather grows warmer, more
adm more tub blouses of actually
washable materials appear under tail
ored coats. 1t is quite necessary TO
specify actually washable" materials,
a. many of the so-called tub"
blouses would never stand single
washing. The colored embroideries of
the cheaper blouses are by no means
always fast. The lovely voile and
marquisette blouses also often prove
delusions, for this fabricc, as many
people know, never stops shrinking. A
wolfe waist should always be pur-
chased several sizes too large and the
excess of material may sometimes be
taken up, for the first two or three
weeks of wear, in little pin tucks
which may be incorporated in the de-
sign OF decoration.
Even the most expensive qualities
OF this fashionable yelling fabric
shrink more or less as times goes on;
but SO beautiful is the soft, trans
parent material, and so gracefully
does IL mold the lines of shoulder and
arm that IL is certain to remain IN
favor for the more dressy type of
waists; though for practical. every
day wear lawn or batiste models that
may be sent to the washtub without
any qualms are much more satisfac-
tory.
The Magyar type, which its seam
less shoulder and sleeve and its loose
fall of material from shoulder to
waist, continues to be the favorite
blouse style. Nearly all waists shown
in the shops are embroidered more or
less elaborately. Many show the EN-
broderies in the new shade of Erin
green, rather vivid shade, which
goes well with white. Coral is an
other fayorite color, This warm pink
Shade, containing a suggestion of vel
low, is also called Helen pink but
this name is wrong, as Helen pink is
of an outspoken, pale rose tint. Nine
tenths of the voile blouses show a
touch of coral in the embroidered pat
tern.
There are scores Of blouses
made Of alloyer embroidery and
most Of the models are exceed
ingly simple, the embroidery being
handsome enough to serve as trim
ming and just trifle of some fine
lace being added at neck and sleeve
edge as finish. Fichus are worn
with many of those simple tub blouses
and sometimes fichu and blouse are
trimmed alike-a very pretty notion.
So popular is the fichu with its grace
fui drapery over the bust and its love
ly lines over shoulder and arm that
the style is being copied in blouses
of more dressy nature.
Sashes and girdles are important
details in large percentage Of the
new seasons toilets. while belts, for
the time being, are, comparatively
speaking, in eclipse. The shortened
waist line is of course responsible for
this state of things. The one-piece
frock almost invariably has its waist
line raised at least a few inches and
defined by some girdle arrangement,
lines of corded shirrings or an orna
mental finish on the skirt top; while
with the separate waist and skirt. u
combination always associated with
aIinh Dtll6I VIC dNibcFt
short wasted effect by raising the
tops of the skirt more or less and
holding it in place with an inner gir-
die. Most of the tailored skirts are
made that way and are finished with
absolute plainness or with some mar
row line of braiding or other trim
ming.
In spite Of this tendency there are
many skirts ending at the normal
waist line and there is no denying that
the woman naturally short Of waist
line and ample of curves looks very
much better in tailored skirt trim
ly belted at the natural waist line.
The ordinary separate tub skirt too
is much more practical when made
with a waist band than when raised
and finished with the supporting in
ner girdle, and so there is still de-
mand for smart belts, though that
demand is less insistent than usual.
Wide soft belts Of black satin, moire
or velvet seem to be more in evil
dence than belts Of leather in the ex-
clusive shnns and rnlorad helta in