davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
CopOnation Red HIT

flaps are rolled back. giving the hat the
effect of quaint Dutch cap with starch
ed ear pieces. These new helmets arc
particularly becoming and will no doubt
be favored fall style.
To return to the practical turban Illus
trated. this hat is blocked felt model
In navy blue, the brim being faced with
deep pulple velvet and the pointed don
keys ears of velvet poised across the
front being lined with navy blue satin. A
touch of metal braid with blue and
mauve threads unites the two seemingly
clash ng colors in a smart harmony
Few Of the new hats show ribbon trim
mings, but there are many good-looking
bows of silk, rep weave heavier than
bengaline, and the new lustrous taffeta
being the silk used. These bows are often
tremendous in size, and, of course. the silk
is wired to keep such large loops in posi-
ton. A photograph shows the manner
| Of trimming with silk bows, the big loops
| entirely covering the high crown of the
| hat, with one or two loops standing
even higher at the hack. TIL hat is a
very attractive model of violet-colored
| felt, the taffeta silk bows being a change
| able violet and gray effect.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
The Art of the Veil.

THERE is. indeed, an art in the wear
l ing of the veil. 1t should be treat
ed tenderly. A special receptacle should
keep the perishable webs in immaculate
condition. The French veil case resen-
bles large, thin book of some special
precious sort, with its delicate satin COW
ers and ribbon tie strings. The wells
are placed between the padded leaves
and covered with thin silk. The veil and
the art OF it's wearer mark all of this
seasons excursions. The headpiece for
the muffiing worn completely over the
hat must be fatty trimmed and have
housekeeping brin for the wells 10
show off to advantage, whereas the
long scarfs. which wrap so gracefully
about the throat, may accompany side
tilted or mushroom hat with equal art.
One OF the latest French wells shows
a scattering of bees over some Of the
squares of lace webbing. Pretty veil
pins are in the form OF long-stemmed
lilies, fashioned entirely in green and
white enamel For ordinary picnicking
and boating purposes, a plain chiffon veil
in brown may be advised, for this color
and mesh are about the only things
which resist tan. The violet and tissue
veils-hlue sometimes showing shadings
that resemble faded streaks-are one OF
the late ideas, and there are some si.very
blue follies that look for all the world
like pieces of the summer sky.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

be pinned at the side when the apron is
donned.
Boudoir caps always sell like wi1dfire at
a fair. These caps are extremely fashion,
able now and since they are easier to
make than to launder, most women like
to have constant supply of fresh ones.
pretty boudoir cap can be made from
circle of fine lawn run with casing
at the edge and finished with three-inch
friil of lace. A ribbon and bow cover the
casing and seam where the frill is attach
ed. All-over lace makes a pretty cap of
this kind and pink rosebud tucked
against the lace frill will make the effect
extra bewitching.
A woman who was asked to donate
something for a fair up in the Catskils
last summer made half q dozen pairs of
bath slippers or bedroom mules as she
called them, which were voted the pref
test thing on the table and which brought
So pair to swell the worthy fund for
which the fair was given. These mules
We're patterned after the sort which the
DowSger Queen Alexandra of England
has made to her special order. The
woman who made them for the fair
bought at the village store some ordinary
soles such as are sold for worsted slip
pers. These soles she covered On both
sides with pink satin. AT the front, in
stead of a toe; We're placed two satin flaps
which joined over the inStep under
large button mold covered with the satin
The mules worn by Queen Alexandra are
made of dainty brocades in light colors
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
New Styles in Brown.

vest;on IF fringe made Of the silk thread.
3 f1oor cushion should be filled with OK
celsjor or hay. Children especially like
floor cushions.
Cushions Of g1ngham. hhen; cIaen OF
scrim are delightfully."- cool, lasting In color
and washable as often as may be desired
Homemade filings for such cushions may
be composed OF finely cut, clean ola rags
or of old bedding feathers fncased IN a
cover made Of leftover pieces OF muslin
Lingerie pillows for indoor use may be
of various washable materials, such as
a,l-over embroidery. batiste with bands OF
lace insertions, Powered lawns, Scotch
singhams, striped in two. tones Of one
color: Scotch madras in two tone or solid
colors and plain French linens in various
shades.
linen cushion cover could be very quick
ly embroidered in simple design with inser-
ton Of cluny lace added. Should touch
of color be desired the cover might be
drawn on over a colored cushion which
would show through the lace. A band of
insertion made from riekrack braid with
a crocheted design between would be
handsome in place Of the cluny lace.
Floral medallions may be used to trim
linen or batiste cushions. Stitch these
fat to the foundation, then cut away UNI
derneath and secure the raw edges SO
that they will not ravel Plain hem
stitched pillows are always pretty and
refined.
Suitable cushions for bedrooms are OF
dimity, cretonne. linen or dotted mus
Inns. whose dots may be outlined In wash
silk. the lining being OF a color to cor
respond. A cushion Of white linen had
large butterfly In the center worked with
coronation braid, with the dots on the
butterfly wings worked in tiny eyelets
Some Of the plain hemstitched covers
have a scant ruffie OF lace, others are
hemstitched. with a fairly large mono
gram or initials embroidered either In the
center Of the cover or across the upper
left-hand corner.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
CoIored Shoes Passing.

THE rage for colored shoes is passing,
/ and they are not worn to a great ex-
tent. Black is now far more fashionable
and popular. 1t is claimed that the fancy
colors were given up because they caused
the feet to look larger. Black velvet is
very popular, although patent leather is
worn to some extent. The popularity of
pumps has grown as the summer comes
on and very few of the slippers SO fash
ionable q few seasons ago are worn. Tan
pumps are worn great deal with the
afternoon costumes. but are not worn in
the evening.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

two above 1t. A white felt hat with
white "Mephisto" wings was worn at
Manhattan Beach one night last week by
young woman wearing well cut ia Tor
ed suit of VIII tie mohair and wool fabric
Of extreme simplicity, and the effect was
excellent. The PERFECTLY white hat seems
somehow suggestive OF summer ana SUI
try days, but there is really no reason
why white hat should not be perfectly
correct. and attractive into the bargain,
in fall and winter; and to most women
white hats are more becoming than
darker models which throw the features
and compilations more into relief.
Last fall the flexible velour hats when
chung closely to the head and had soft
crowns and brlms that might be bent up
or down anywhere made their first bow:
These hats proved SO comfortable aud
so practical for knockabout wear that
they have been retained in fashions Ia
vor and the velour hat is foremost among
new hat styles for autumn. Last year S
velour models had bell-shaped crowns and
very tiny brims, but the new velour
high torpedo-shaped crowns and wider
brims that may be rolled up even more
rakishly than those Of last season. A
new velour model which in its daring
slant and knowing look generally gro
claims itself a Virot creation is Illus
trated The color of this hat is dull olive
green, and the velour is long-haired and
silky, with luster Ike mans silk hat.
The hackle feather perched at the front Is
in a golden brown shade, and dull silk
cord is braided and knotted around the
base of the crown. This hat is, of cou; Sc,
very extreme and only beauty could
dare it's audacious slant, but many of the
velour models are more conservative IN
| type and will be liked by the average
woman who needs smart, simple little
( first hat for running about in town and
| motoring back to the country at the Gays
end.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

trife above the high crown from front
view. Many Of the hats may be reversed
and worn any way that proves becoming
For example, the smart little hat of vel
vet with q rolled brim faced with light
er-colored material and having pair of
Mercury wings directly in front might
be whipped around the other way if one
desired, SO that the wings would come
at the back, and the hat would be equal
ly modish and correct. This hat has the
very tall. pointed torpedo crown and
is perfectly round at the base. The
crown is covered with brown velvet and
the wings are brown with fecks of coral
pink. the brim facing matching this coral
pink color. This model promises to be
favorite with the younger women. The
hat is worn, as the picture shows. slight
ly tipped back on the head.
Another youthful hat that resembles
this model in shape is the roiled-brim
model, with soft grebe breast forming
the brim facing This beautiful model
hat has high crown and flexible brim
of white French felt, the feather facing
being in shades OF Dutch blue, which
grow darker beneath the hat. The bow
is a graceful one of white velvet, and as
in the case of the wing on the brown and
coral hat, may be worn either at the
front or the back.
Already the pert little Pierrot shapes
of snow-white felt are appearing in the
shop windows, and several of these mats
have been noted on young women at the
beaches These white hats, trimmed with
white wings or bows, promise to be the
conspicuous feature Of early fall. but
whether the pure white hat fad will last
over into the winter it Is hard TO say.
Unless made too common, such hats are
charming, particularly on young girls.
But alas for dress fad of any sort
that takes in New York! Ey the time
the last milliner on 14th street has stock
ed up with the moments craze it has
been banished from the smart shops In
the vicinity of 34th street. and no matter
how charming it is in itself it's day is
done. But just at first we are sure to
see many Of the pretty pure white cha
peaux with fall tailored suits Of worst
ed and mohair.
Some of these very high crowned hat:
are trimmed at the back with ''Mephisto'
wings Of angelic Wilderness. which star
at the base of the crown and taper up t.
,.-I1r nniDtS reaching an inch OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
A BUSTING SET MADE OF FLOW
Erred CRETONNE.

has finished sewing the top of the apron
may be turned down and tucked into the
bag with the fancy work before the rib
hons are drawn up. The apron illustrated
10 made of Powered lawn of a quality that
can be bought for 10 IL cents a yard.
With the addition of two yards Of ribbon
. very satisfactory gift may be donated
70 the fair at trifing expense.
There is usually good deal of work
on elaborate chatting dish and tea aprons
SfYimmed with ruffies and lace insertions,
0Ue~eome of the work may be avoided IL
instead OF. bemming long strings for the
waist, ribbon ties are attached to "a bit OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

garding the color and style OF their
gowns, as well as all the accessories.
When the bride is blessed with wealth.
she often presents the gowns ana acces-
sories In all their completeness to her
maids as a gift.
The bridegroom sends the flowers to be
carried by the maids, and the bride adds
q pretty little trinket, which often takes
the form OF a piece Of jewelry.
The maid OF honor receives the bride 3
bouquet and glove white the ring Is being
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

gust has slipped around the corner and
fall openings commence.
These hats show both moderate and
extreme styles. and while some of them
will be possible only for pretty women,
others should prove becoming on almost
anybody, provided the hair is arranged
correctly and the neckwear Is trim and
in good style-but these two considera-
the wearableness of q new hat style Is
concerned.
The coronation red hat by Marie Crozet
is a Paris creation that hints at the ex-
travagant favor for wing trimmings. The
wings on this hat are short and blunt in
shape and completely cover the crown,
starting at its base and running up on
all sides to a peak at the top The brim
rolls up all around. the left side being
carried up to sharp point which lends
the hat certain dash and gayety. This
hat is of coronation red taffeta silk with
a velvet brim facing in slightly darker
shade. The wings are in soft grayish-
red color which is exceedingly beautiful,
the color growing grayer or redder as
the position of the hat Is altered in the
light.
After q. long period of black and white
in millinery. 1t is rather disGoncerting to
see so many gay cOlors. and one instinc-
lively feels L could never wear anything
SO gay" as one looks round for a friend
" black and white or all black model.
This craze for cOlors is the result, OF
course, Of the coronation last June, when
the English court abandoned its mourning
garb for King Edward and blossomed out
in purple and red in honor of the new
sovereign. Queen Mary has strong pen
chant for gay colors and II not respect
fully held in check by her dressmakers
would often combine giaring bright col
ors in the same costume. Her love OF
vivid hues has undoubtedly done some
thing toward the revival OF color In dress
this season.
Another French hat with wing trim
mings that completely covered the tall
crown was a beautiful Georgette model.
This hat was a helmet affair, with the
high crown slantirg down over the ears
and then turning up in a graceful roll
which rose higher at the back than
at any other place. The hat was a long
haired beaver model in bright navy blue,
and the wings, which sprouted up in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

the Hate eighties when hat crowns were
tan and marrow with trimmings nat
tened against them like vines clinsing
to Q tower. and heads. topped with these
tan hats looked very tiny above the I'M
menss sleeves that were the vogue.
But here we are again at season OF
steepae crowned millinery and sleeves
bellsd out and even whaleboned out at
the elbow are more than mere Paris
rumors. It never pays TO laugh at
fashion. Who knows but at the next turn
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

The long OF tafea linen and pongee is well nigh in
dspensabe for summer For, aside from its usefulness tor
motoring it necessity other OCCASIONS such
as shopping ETC. The shown the sketch is OF two tone
taeahe revers cuffs of dark blue taetathe coat OF
lighter shade becoming long lines with one
piece front and back and high line at the side the sleeve
and side waist portion being The coat is trimmed
with buttons covered with the dark blue taffeta
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

autumn and winter by Paris. Some OF
the hats have come directly from French
mill ners; others have been built by au-
thoritative millners in New York. All
are typical of the shapes, materials and
trimmings that will be with us after Au-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

placed on her finger. returning them at
the close Of the ceremony.
The maid of honor and best man follow
Immediately after the bride and bride
groom In leaving the church.
Only intimate friends and relatives OF a
bride are privileged to present their gifts
to her In person.
Still the favorite costume for afternoon,
wear Is of taffeta, foulard or satin in dark
navy blue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

ears, and earrings-particularly the grace
full swinging sort, will lend an extra
touch of dash and knowingness.
Six new fall hats are illustrated today,
and these hats show the style features
which have been decided on for the early
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
Steeple Crowns Reminiscent Of the Eighties up
standing Trimmings Give LookofSmart-
neSS---The Velour Hat a Fall Fea-
ture- -ColorsA gainPopular.

Of fashions wheel 1t will be unescapably
ours? The fall hats are to be very very
tall-that point is assured; and sharp,
stiff trimmings will make some Of them
even taller than ever. And these new
tall hats are really good deal higher In
actual measurement of inches than the
hats-so lately considered grotesque-of
the eighties; for the high crowns do not
rest on the head as they did then. but
settle down over 1t SO that several inches
of the crown slope downward below the
point where the head touches the inner
side.
These very high crowned hats certainly
do lend height to their wearers, and for
this reason are usually becoming, though
they are not as picturesque and graceful
as more spreading shapes. One must be
smartly tailored and beautifully groomed
to make the tall, severe hat look well,
and the probability is that many women
this fall will sacrifice mere prettiness to
dash and smartness because of this re-
quirement in dress.
With these smart. high-crowned hats,
tall, well-boned neckwear will be worn
and the hair will be dressed low over the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

YEAR or two ago
when we were I'M
der the thraldoIn of
low m ii / 1 n e T v
when huge crowns
and fat brins made
womankind resem-
BILE m u S h r o o ms
growing on long
stalks how we
could laugh 10 be
sure, at the queer
tintypes taken OF
ourselves during
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

Vanity bags for dancing parties are
attractive il made Of Dresden ribbon In
colors corresponding with the gown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
Etiquette.

Bridesmaids and maids Of honor follow
unhesitatingly the wishes Of tho bride p.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

n LMOST everybody who has spent
~ q season at a summer hotel has
A been levied upon for an Offering
for the inevitable summer fair
given IN behalf OF some much
needed Improvement in the village, and
designed, Of course, to coax the dimes and
dollars from the summer boarders' pock-
ct Often something for the fair" must
be donated within few hours. and what
to make In so short q space of time is
often q question.
Aprons are. of course. the backbone of
the fancy goods Tablespoons and bags.
An apron that is easy to make and Ger
tain to sell is the fancy work apron which
may be drawn UP. when not in use, to
make a bag that may be carried over the
arm. This apron is illustrated. and the
picture indicates the manner of it's fash
iening very plainly. casing is run
across the apron and also along the edge
Of the turned-up pocket. The fancy work
is kept in this deep pocket, and when one
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

Grass stains may be removed by wash
ing in alcohol or by wetting the spots
and rubbing with soft soap and baking
soda.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
SUMMER CUSHIONS FOR
INDOOR AND OUTDOOR USE

CUSHIONS are among tho all-important
~ details of summer furnishings. They
have become a luxurious necessity. There
is a tendency toward the unpretentious
sofa cushion IN preference to the much
beruftled favorite Of recent days. II a
ruffle Is used, 1t L. very scant indeed.
Even cords are less frequently used than
formerly, the most approved style OF
mounting being q band Of its own mate
rial cut on the bias. Sometimes q row OF
stitching simply finishes the edge, with
an embroidery design around the edge or
IN one or two corners. Very often the
edge Is without stitching, but Is finished
with an embroidery design. Dand OF heaVy
lace, stencihng or crosssutch. Many VI
the new p.Lows are oblong In shape.
Cusnion covers for hard usage at the
summer cottage or on the piazza are
MADE of a new material which c!oseiy
resembles leather and comes in red. piue'
.reen and leather shades, and are mace
an excellent material for a porch pillow
cover. embroidered in oriental color CON-
binations or the Old-fashioned cross
stitch.
y X
Some of the newest designs are made OF
coarse homespun or burlap. The decora-
ton may be outlined. embroidered. stem
ciled or a ombination Of stencil and en-
broidery Some Of the prettiest have
figures stenciled In colors. with the out
lines worked In embroidery silk Coarse
crash is pretty and makes very attractive
and serviceable cushions for the porch
with a stencil desisn outlined in COARSE
colored silk Simple stencil patterns are
within the reach OF every one, and no
lessons are required to use them. The
pattern Is simply pinned on the cloth. the
color Is applied with brush and when 1t
is dry the design is outlined In coarse
silk This Is also suitable for floor
cushion made with the over and over
stitch In coarse black silk on the outer
edge, and on either end with Just Q suS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

embroidery which binds the top Of the
apron. Or a strip of beading may be
used, the ribbon being passed through
this and formed into rosette which may
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

A blocked felt turban with rolled up
brim is shown in another photograph. 1t
will be noted that the brim of this nat
points out sharply at one side, toward the
back. This is a new feature-a pointed
effect over the ears being the grand chic
in Paris just now. A particularly strik-
ing new helmet model has no brim. but
at the sides the steep crown extends
down in two disappointed flaps and these
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

tiers over the crown, were in shades Of
blue and green.
If you propose to trim your fall hat
yourself you cannot go far wrong if
you place pair of pert wings or a
sharp pointed bow directly at the back.
And the back trimming must show a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30
NOTES AND NOTIONS.

unwittingly mastered one of the first
principles of being comfortable In torrid
weather That is, to shut the heat out
side the house instead of admitting 1t at
every door and window. Air the rooms
thoroughly from shutdown to an hour or
so after dawn, then close up every door
and window. Draw the shutters close
and permit no hot breeze and no bazlnS
RAYS Of sunlight to creep through
crevice The rooms, darkened and MADE
restful with barred walls and slippery
linen or chintz coverings. will be delight
fully cool even at that awful hour, MID
afternoon. When 1t seems too not TO
sleep at night, even with every WINDOW
thrown open, try hanging wet sheets In
the windows. This is done in the nos
pitfalls In very sultry weather and the
evaporation Of the water In the rapioly
drying linen sensibly cools the atnlos-
phere in the room.
New Styles in Brown.
MANY new shades Of brown are SHOWN
lv1 in the new tailormades, two OF
these being known as Egyptian sand ana
cedar brown. suit Of either shade IN
homespun with merest touch OF mar
monizing shade of blue would make an
exceedingly smart costume, II mace IN
the new double-breasted bolero styIe'
with the side revers and kmono sleeves
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-30

Some of these very high crowned hats
are trimmed at the back with "Mephisto
wings Of angelic whiteness. which start
at the base of the crown and taper up to
slender. sharp points reaching an inch or