Evening journal., 1911-03-24
Advice For
The Amateur
Milliner

THERE are few things that pay you
better than a capacity for trimming
your own hats. II you have the knack
OF style the materials cost little
enough. and with a twist and a turn a {
charming CONNECTION is quickly pro-
duced. To such person II comes easf-
iy but there are many little hints that
viii help the novice who has tried her
prentice hand without much success.
First Of all try to teach yourself to
Judge an untrimmed shape It is some-
times difficult to choose one in its bare
state There is little resemblance to
the finished article.
When trying on various shapes nut
the crown Of each hat out OF your cal
culations for the moment. It general
ly is the cause of the ugly appearance
an untrimmed hat is won't to have
when being tried on. The trimming
will remedy all that; IL is the brim you
want to study. Turned up, turned
down, slightly or much raised-which
suits you best7
When you have selected brim which
exactly meets your requirements half
the battle is won. Milliners will tell
you the lining should not be put in till
the last thing. but amateurs would find
1t safer to line it first and leave the
drawstring open till the last. You do
not risk tossing and crushing the trim
ming by laboring at the lining. Do not
put many stitches into millinery. Pins
are faithful friends. and when the lin
ing is drawn up no one is any the
wiser. II is easy to pin a spray OF
flowers into position and leave well
alone. bow. rosette or swathe is
easier to manipulate with a pin than
with a needle. There is an excellent
tip. however. in which the needle tri-
umphs when a shower of small flowers
is required to be sprin5led. as it were,
over the crown. Use a really large
needle and thread it with green fax
thread or something of that kind. Put
the needle down through the crown
from the outside and bring II up again.
Cut your thread. leaving two lengths;
lay the little spray between these and
tie them securely, shipping afterward
close TO the knot to neaten It off. In
this manner a very light effect is pro-
duced, as the single blooms can be ft-
ted in Just where they are required and
secured exactly, whereas If they were
sewed over and over It would be much
more dih1cult to do, and tying with
thread is firm. even on the f1imsiest
shape. Pins would show in this case.
They can only be used where foliage
or material can be tucked over to hide
them. Then they are moro than handy.
Too many artificial flowers are
weighty-extraordin so-and now-
er laden hats resembling roof gardens
mean headaches to the wearer.
A good bow can be made by folding
the whole breadth of silk over into a
loop Gather 1t up in your hand, catch
IL with q needle. using strong thread
which is wound round firmly. Gather
up another loop and secure IL in the
same way. You viii soon have a regu-
lar bunch Of smart loops to pin on Ia
q your hat
An inexperienced amateur should be.
3 ware OF overlooking or overtrimminE.
, Do not fall into the error of trimmins
a hat in what may be called a "bittyH
y fashion. cramming In all sorts Of odds
E and ends. It takes a real artist to plav
tricks like that Plain and simple is
the chief rule for the novice to follow