The French Broad hustler. [volume] (Hendersonville, N.C.) 1896-1912, 1911-10-26

j SO440A1 d44 tI1lnl414k6 dlu3 III AdAI
cases the effects are bizarre and sem
sational; but it AM be denied that,
generally speaking. the models envoly-
ed blythe great designers in Paris are
decidedly original and of great artistic
beauty. It is only natural that the
richest materials and most costly trim
innings should enter INTO the construc-
ton of evening toilettes but the ex-
t~raVagance displayed in the latest
models from the Paris shops is al
most incredible.
Many of the new evening frooks are
| exceedingly simple in line. "A straight
falling or slightly draped tunic sur
mounts a clinging marrow underroblA,
! and some sortNof fichu softens the
bodice. Beyond that, color scheme
and material furnish originality and
charm and the completed whole is
extremely Iikable if not dazzling or
striking. There are lovely things in
white Is we'll as in color, more at
ltractive white evening frocks than pe0-
pie have been accustomed to see in
recent seasons. There are quantities
of white and black or black and white
too, though black and silver seems
to have been substituted largely fer
the o hackneyed black and white.
Only a ski1lful artist can ahndle
drapery successfully and many of the
evening models that have a simple air
owe their cachet to unerring certainty
in the management of drapery. One
tunic is perhaps superimposed upon
another and another upon that, yet
the lines and tones are blended into
a harmonious whole, with no effect of
| patchwork. The disastrous results Of
an attempt at such effects by asbungl-
ing hand may be seen wherever cheap
pretentious models are gathered to-
gether, but the great French masters
are Tevelling in an opportunity Of hand
ling such wonderful fabrics as this
generation has not before known.
Silver lace Of all kinds, silver m
. broideries of all kinds are used in the
black and silver combinations. For
instance the breath of silver lacing
swathing tunic fashion a black satin
frock from a great Partisan house is
a curious open design of silver net,
superb in workmanship, extraordinar-
mily effective, bordered on one edge
by deep fringe. 1t forms CT covers the
entire left side of the decollete bodice
and the right side of the bodiceSis en-
tirely of pale pink chiffon draped fich-
wise over the shoulder and bordered
by narrow fringe corresponding with
the wide fringe of the tunic.
All of the famous makers have a
liking for a touch of pale pink chiffon
or tu1le about the bodice of the black
evening frock and indeed with bodices
other than black. Conquently this flesh
pink is so used that it gives from a
distance a rather startling effect of
extreme deco1letage to a frock which
is in reality discreetly high. But this
in not always the case and there is
no denying that the .solf delicate pink
softens the pronounced tone OF the
frock where it nears the face more
subtly and quite as becomingIy as the
white or cream to which women have
been more accustomed.
The black. velvet evening gown will
be a noticeable feature of the winter
season, and some of the handsomest
models in this material have their re-,
lief only in the flesh pink tulle or
chiffon referred to and in embrodid-
cry of brilliants. Worth loves this
scheme and has turned cut some ex-
ceedingly beautiful models of this type.
The velvets, both plain and ~brocaded,
when used in evening models are con-
fined chiefly to the skirt section of
the model, rising OF the bodice to a
waist line CIR in bib fashion, while the
draped bodice is of tulle or lace or
chiffon. In this way one avoids any
cumbersome effect and yet secures
the superb effect of the velvet.
The brocade yelvets are beautifully
made and charming beyond description
but however light and supple, they al
most invariably give an impression of
heaviness and excessive warmth when
used in a bodice, and this combination
of the sheer bodice drapery with the
velvet skirt is happy and becoming.
The plain one lone velvets can more
successfully be used for at least a
part of the bodice than can the bro
AIDES. and some of the handsomest vel
vet models show one side of the bodice
in the velvet draped across and ANAL
gamating with the skirt, while the
other and %underside of the bodices is
in lace or tuIle. A C-shaped decolIe-
tage or a V-shape partially filed in
usually results from this arrangement
and form most of the popular fichu
draperies and so is much seen but
sometimes the cross drappery by
which a bodice and skirt are brought
into enc covers only a small section of
the bodice, leaving the ~decolletage
round CIR square.
Almost all colors are admissible for
afternoon gowns, but there is still a
decided preference for the darker
shades. A great deal of dark blue is
is used-dark blue chiffon with dark
blue taffeta, dark blue silk wolfe
over satin and soft dark blue
silks with white satin collars and
revers, and so forth. Black and white
is almost as popular for afternoon
wear as it is for evening. One ees
occasionally some afternoon dresses
in old gold old rose and one of the
leaf and grape green's. The lighter
bIues-tile, powder, lizard, nankeen
and water shades-are also used to
some extent, but blue and black are
decidedly the smartest coIors.