Pullman herald. [volume] (Pullman, W.T. [Wash.]) 1888-1989, 1911-07-28

absurd, and can be proftably toier-
ated.
The more recent writer's now rec
ognize the general laws that heavy
winter pruning tends to develop
wood growth, while heavy summer
pruning tends to develop fruit buds
and fruit theoretically, this state
ment is true, but practically 1t is
not, as it is possible to secure inst
as heavy wood growth by pruning
in June as it is by pruning in Janu-
airy. In fact, under certain condi-
| tons, / favor the May or June prun-
ing to the January pruning. Under
very favorable conditions both Janu-
airy and June pruning are advisable
for the production of wood. This is
especially true with strong growing
varieties OF both apples and pears.
when one desires to avoid land pole-
like branches and hasten the fruiting
time of certain trees. On the other
hand, it should not be practiced on
weak, tardy, growers.
The reader will now see that the
so-called summer pruning may effect
trees in Numerically opposite ways.
and produce wood under one condi-
ton and fruit buds under another.
To differentiate and intelligently
practice summer pruning, the pruner
must have an intimate knowledge of
the tree growth in the particular dis
trfct and be more or less familiar
with the habits of the varieties.
No specific dates for particular sec
tons can be set when summer prun-
ing for the formation of fruit buds
should be done, but dependence must
be placed upon the variety, the dis
trict the method of culture and the
season. In eastern Washington dur
ing normal seasons, on the uplands
where irrigation is not practiced,
most varieties give good results if
pruned after the tenth of August and
beforet he tenth of September.
While in the irrigated valleys where
the seasons are longer and the sum
mer temperature higher, August 20
to as late as September 20 is about
right.
In western Washington, where the
growing season naturally closes ear
lier even though killing frosts do
not come before very late, the non
cultivated orchards are ready to
prune as early as July 10, while the
cultivated orchards may not be ready
for summer pruning before August l
to Is.
The final judgment as to time to
do summer pruning must be based
upon the condition Of the tree The
primer should anticipate the begin
ming of the period for the forma-
ton of fruit buds and begin to prune
at once. This formation period for
bearing trees can be accurately de-
termined by examining the fruit
buds with a high power microscope
AS a general rule, for the best re-
suits, the pruning should be done
just at the close of the vigorous sum-
mer growth, while the tree is storing
up reserve food, forming buds and
preparing for the coming years
growth. If pruned too early, the
naturally dormant newly formed
buds develop short tender laterals
which may perish during the winter,
while if pruned too late, only strong
buds are developed for the coming
spring woods growth.
Practically the same principles are
carried out in summer pruning as in
winter pruning, only it usually re-
quires a little more nerve and de-
cision to remove the same amount
of wood during the summer time as
during the winter time. Especially
is this true when the branches are
ladened with half-grown fruit, be-
cause very few men realize the ac-
tual limitations of an average bear
ing tree
The Old Tree-If the tree has a
dense top, open up the center to
permit sunlight and air to enter.
Thin out the sides, by removing from
one-tenth to one-fourth of the bran
ches, always cutting back to a limb
and never leaving a long stub to die
or throw out big crop of sprouts
Summer pruning can not be profit
| ably practiced on old, stunted, or
dying trees. They need rejuvina-
tion which comes with winter prun-
ing, but may probably be practiced
upon old, thrifty, shy-bearing trees.
Large limbs can be removed at this
time just as safely as at any other
season of the year, only it is not adj
yisable to remove too much of the
top at once. Where great quantities