Evening journal., 1911-02-27
FASHION AND FADS
BY Mrs. Maud L. GllIey.

A very striking example OF the
new patterns OF dress goods was seen
recently in a foulard of Egyptian red
having coin spot in white and a
four-inch border done in Oriental
colors.
Knitted four-in-hands, like the un-
welcome guest, are always lust about
10 60 while doggedly staying on.
They are quite as smart" as ever
and tie up very effectively in vivid
cross-bars.
The bolero is fashioned frequently
with the sleeves cut in now with the
body Of the garment. and so takes on
sort Of Spanish-Russian alliance
that difterentiates it from the bolero
OF other days.
While there are many tunics OK
plotted with shawl or pointed outline.
the majority have a straight, even
edge that terminates above the knees
or just below and has some variety
of border decoration.
Lace enters very conspicuously into
the trimming scheme of the spring
garments. This has reference to the
dresses Of cotton marquisette and
wolfe as well as to those OF batiste.
fine lawn and mousselines.
AS Tor millinery trimmings, the
feature adopted with so much fervor
last year of combining color notes has
been abandoned for more softened eff
fects-say, two tones of certain
color with a color contrast.
The little accessories OF a woman's
gowning, hats, scarfs, wells, shoulder
capes, NUTS made OF satin, chiffon
and lace, are of material matching the
gown, seem Of more Importance ut
this moment than the gowns them
selves.
Not a few Of the new tunics are
not unlike chemise-coats that are APP
parently slipped over the head. al
though the fastening actually occurs
down one shoulder, about the armhole
and so down the under-arm seam of
the garment
For dresses Of silk aud soft wool
ems, the tendency in the direction of
skirt fullness and Of surplice or Marie
Antoinette effects for waists section.
Some advance models show the mater
ial gathered about the waist: others
have stitched plaits.
Hats designed for the between
season wear are strongly indicative
Of what we are 10 have for the com
ing spring and summer Oddly OF
shape and line is the most noticeable
characteristic, in many instances this
being quite extraordinary.
For children the materials most in
vogue are cotton voile and aero
nette," a new open-meshed fabric that
is very practical. Heavy pique and
white and natural colored linen are
good, while sheer batiste, lawn aud
coarse linen still hold their own.
The latest touch I'm embroidered
lunch cloths is to form them Of alter
nate strips of lace and fine linen. FL
let, fine Cluny and copies Of the old
Venetian laces are used for these in
sertions, and border of lace to match
completes the cover.
On all tailored types Of garments
skirts will remain narrow lines. The
hobble is a thing Of the past TIL,
lines are long, scant, but by no mean.
ungraceful. Some Of the recem
models show plaits introduced OF
either side OF the cores. at kne,
depth.
Tucks and frills, shirrings and elab.
crate embroideries and laces will fig
ure in the pretty profusion that wo-
men find so adorable, but, with Il all
there will continue a very strict OBJ
servance Of la ligne," as the French
say, and, after all, the line is every
thing.
M avtrar,o oioo,a,oo s .t,.. Z,
costume Of fine black cloth, trimmed
with velvet bands covered with a lat
ticework Of fine silk cord. A wide
band OF it, knee high. crosses the
skirt. to disappear under the edges of
wide boX-plait that finishes the back
breadth.
Silks, challies and cottons show n
tendency Of having a supplementary
border of a solid tone. An idea OF the
most novel effects may be gained by
mentioning a new tulle of white with
a scattered pattern of dull red rosses
and soft green foliage. The border
was In Greek key effect and beneath
there appeared "A band Of solid black.
The metallic colors are among .he
most delightful Of all for spring and
summer hats-cOpper color, the
bronzes in all their glory Of green.
bronze and reddish tints, and tarnish-
cd silver all being especially effective
in the new glazed straws and the
ethereal looking braids, and they will
be used I'm strong rivalry to the white
and cream tints.
In speaking OF the Empire modes
1t must be remembered that the short
wasted effects in vogue at the court
of the first Napoleon, and which have
been adapted to the fashion exigencios
of the present day, are suitable only
for evening gowns and for such semi
dress models as are distinctly indoor
: garments-whether for social func-
tions or otherwise.
The monstrous picture hat is rep
resented only by an occasional Wat
teau suggestion, but modified forms
of 1t will be in evidence, these not a
whit less picturesque than their dis
tinguished original. The head sizes
are still large, but raised a mere trihe
by bandeau, so that a bit Of the Golf
fure is visible, and the brims are more
apt TO be more or less rolled back
from the face.
FINISH FOR CENTERPIECE.