Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-07-09

~ NE q. Tho most difficult things to
design - tho mourning costume
for rl!dsu1rsnen, which must con-
form 10 tho conventional IDEAS
about the custom and yec should be sem
sibly cool aud comfortable Simplicity
cannot be urged TOO strongly. The OBJ
servanse % the rules OF mourning can be
ofse b. too much o. the idea. crepe
can be applied in too great Quantities:
veIis can be too elaborate. Jewelry
should never Ae used for decoration.
and black. especially when lustrous. Is
not mourning. Dull. undecorated fabrics
are permissible. IL mourning is to be OBJ
served A conservative style. a COM
Portable At and a lack OF display are
the guiding stars for the refined and
weli-5ressei woman
Crepe de gimme dull-fnished foulard
or sheer Iinsn and lawn can be Used IN
summer. The dull-b!ack china silk Is
very coot. and black linen is another
suggestion for shirtwaists. More and
more are We regarding the all-white
frock with the black hat as a proper
summer suit for mourners. II is. tech
nically, Just as much an absence OF
color. and surely it Is cooler for the
wearer
For a young girl the design ut the left
has been drawn II is OF white linen.
lawn or batiste The only trimming Is
hemstitchins which Is used on the cir
cular yoke that trims the back and part
Of the front over this at the front
d square lab. he1stitched The
kimono bodice has fine. handrun tucks
over the shoulders and halfway down
the sleeves TlIrned-s,ack cuffs. hem
stitched finish -hese on the skirt there
10 band OF linen. hernstitched. applied
about 10 or II inches above the edge of
the skirt.
The hat Of duh straw is rolled up In
turban style and trimmed with a bow OF
lusterless taffeta.
White again Is used in the second
frock The yoke Is Of net and the top
n cut out square The bodice fastens
at one side under straight hem that
Is trimmed with braid and fabric-cov-
cred buttons 4 band OF plain goods Is
applied 20 the lower part OF the skirt,
and the whole simple costume is An
ished with a sash OF dull-Dlack taffe.a.
This model Is good in fopard. pongee
or soft black taffeta.
More typical OF mourning stands the
central fl; ure. The dress Is Of dull
finished charIneuse trimmed with bands
Of crepe. There Is the ichu line on the
bodice. one side trimmed with bands Of
crepe. the other with line OF black
buttons that head a gathered ruffie OF
mousseiine. A chemisette and subcufrs
bands of crepe. graduated in width.
trim the circular skirt that Is attached
b the bodice slightly above the normal
waist line ny a corling. The turban Is
Of crepe. draped over a close-ftting
turban, and a white ruche Is used TO
edge the brim. A white turned-over
collar OF linen IS worn with this cos
tune. The hatpin must be dull Jet, Of
course
Lawn IL the material that can be
made up on he next suggestion. Stone
gray Is the color. trimmed with a tucked
net yoke OF black, black stitching and
a dull black g!rdle The pointed yoke
10 Outlined by stitched straps that cross
N front and are held down by gray
uttons wide band is stitched on
the bottom or the Sklri, ABOVE u Is a
narrower one with the ends pointed and
laid over a straight piece. The sleeves
are bell shaped and trimmed with
stitched straps at the edges.
Last Is a dress OF dull taffeta. A yoke
and undersieeves are OF black chiffon.
and the bodice IS cut kimono. with an
overjacket OF silk. This is braided in
dull soutache. ana the two tabs are
buttoned down over SILK gtrdle. Tho
skirt shows the high line and Is
straight. broad bani trims the lower
edge and II ,identally allows piecing II
you have short lengths.
On the hat "a the plain chiffon veil
that COY ers the shane. black taffeta
bow trims the hat OF silk
Shoes sh .uld be Of dull leather and
undecorated. Gloves OF suede or dull
kid are the accepted things. And II
these models be kept IN mind the
mourning styles Will without doubt be
right.