New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-11-07
SoYers Paper Bag Cooking
Eliminates Kitchen Troubles
1t Does Away Largely with Securing of Pots and Pa n
There Is No Burning of Hands and Face in
Blasting Watching of the Food
BY Martha McCulloch Williams.

William Shakespeare, II may be, had not
cooking in mind when he set his witches
chanting:
Double double toll and trouble
Fire burn and caldron bubble.
Nevertheless. the fact remains that the
burning fire and the bubbling caldron are
sources of double trouble TO womenkind
Therefore. they should rise up and call
blessed NJ. Soyer's system of paper bag
cooking, which has come newly to their
help. 1t saves the buildings of the caldron
and thereby the troublings OF the cook
this in many, many ways. Perhaps the
most instantly apparent one is the fact
that there is no caldron to be washed or
secured when the flesh Is weariest. This
is not saying that the caldron, which typi
fies the cooking pot, is COMPLETELY abol-
ished. That would not be true. 1t holds
q remnant OF usefulness no other device
can take away. But the more frivolous
saucepan. the berlin. the casserole even
all these are going TO be left on the shelf
times without number.
So. Also are the roasting pans and those
for frying, likewise the broiler. Paper bags
can do the work better-and be thrown
away when they have served their turn.
Further. there is the saving of strength,
and consequently OF trouble, in the cooking.
Once your food is in the bag you need
DO no more than attend to the heat bit,
keeping it regular and noting the time.
No burning hands and face with basting
the roast no anxiety as TO how It is COM
ing on. 1t requires in the beginning some
what of heroic faith 10 seal ones dinner
away from sight and trust to its coming
out all 1t should be. But the end crowns
the work-with any sort OF intelligence and
care in the preparation the paper bag will
do its perfect work.
But DO not make the mistake Of taking
it for an accomplished cook. 1t is help
toward helping yourself. nothing more. IL
saves the trouble OF watching almost en-
tirely; the bigger trouble Of washing cook
ing vessels in even a greater degree. But
it must be used with judgment and reason
able forethought. Things cook quicker In 1t
than outside-hence you need to spend less
time in getting meal.
Who of us has not sighed: II don mind
washing the dishes, the glass. the silver;
but, oh, the pots and pans" Beyond ques-
ton. pots and pans are Ill 10 handle, espe-
ciaily If they have been used for cooking
fish. Il never dare use fishpan again
without soaking It overnight In soda
water" a queen among housekeepers SAID,
signing happily. as she saw the bag that
had held a fine fish steak flung into the
garbage pail "If there was no other saw
ing, I'd say these bags were worth While,
she went on. Fish is cheaper than flesh
also better to my palate, but the trouble
of cleaning up after IT has often kept me
from cooking 1t.
Where shelf space is at a premium as
IT is in most apartment kitchens, then' IN
deed, the paper bag Is a boon. You can
keen all sorts and sizes OF them IN the
room a single baking pan requires. Further-
more. YOU use them with a mind at ease
there is not the least danger OF lurking
microbe about them This is rarely the
case with a saucepan not In constant use
and even those in constant service require
eternal vigilance It Is beyond question
that i'll secured or i'll kept cooking vessels
are fruitful sources Of ptomaine poisoning.
In diminishing this risk much more than
half lies possibly the biggest trouble saving
of all
minced lean meat add an ounce OF finely
minced suet. half a small minced onion
dust of pepper, a pinch of salt mixed
through a scant spoonful OF flour. ana
light sprinkle Of powdered herbs. Mix the
seasoning we'll through the meat, shape 1t
into a fat round cake, rub butter plenu-
fully on the outside, put into creased
paper bag. seal and bake in a hot oven, al
lowing fifteen minutes to the pound. \ few
slices Of tomato put In the bag help 10
make tasty gravy. a spoonful of tomato
catsup may be used instead. Sliced or
ouartered potatoes can be cooked around
the bag Small young turnips, peeled but
not sliced, can likewise be cooked there.
If carrots are added TO the contents put in
q little stock or water. They should be
scraped and sliced or quartered. If the loaf
is 10 be eaten hot, as for a dinner. the
vegetables help out amazingly. But II 1t Is
wanted for sicing cold it is best cooked by
/ itself
! Baked Onions-Parbol for fifteen minutes
Spanish or Bermuda onions, chill them in
/ cold water. then cut Y out OF the hearts.
J Fill the space with butter; after busting
well with salt and pepper put the onions
/ in q bag with lump of butter and very
/ little water. seal and cook twenty minutes
/ in a hot oven or thirty in a very moderate
one a variation is 10 put either sausage or
/ minced cold meat into the onion hearts or
/ 10 rob up thin slices Of bacon and with
/ them M the cavities, adding a pinch of
/ bread crumbs after the rolls arc in place.
! Copyright 10li by the Associated Literary