davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

sctIv the same manner. Close fitting
sleeves Of black satin pointed TO the
knuckles, land a wrinkled belt OK olacK
satin was Joined 10 a narrow one OF the
cashmere. fastened by large black but
ton, on each side.
The gowning of to-day adopted by tho
smartest French women has an allure IN
its simplicity OF line inexpressioly fasci-
mating On this simplicity all the successes
OF the season are based. There is also
reaction against the excessive, the mean
ingless use OF ornamentauon. The manu-
facturers. in the softness OF the silk ana
vslvet materials they have produced IN the
sxou,site colors Of their muslins and gauzes
and in their choice OF designs. copied main
" from antique fabrics, have done their
mart in attaining this most satisfactory re-
suit With all these resources at hand' Il
a woman of to-day Is not well gowneo'
.ven on a small dress allowance, the rea-
son must be her bad taste and poor judg'
ment. Her velvet. velveteen or cloth stree
coetuns. II cut on correct lines may O'
.nviatly chic. II without vestlge Oh Irlni
ming Her afternoon gown OF SOFT ma
t.riaI IKE crepe de chine or SILK Volle
tastefully made and worn with dlnereh
cbemis.tte.. serves equally for the theatre
or an evening reception. and long close
satin coat, as simply shaped as SACK
ptghtgown, with velvet collars and revers
and zayly colored lining completes the
toilette for afternoon or evening.
NJ A F.
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

Just from lack Of perception Of the fitness
OF things. Oh. II / were only given an op-
portunity TO help them make their choice
only too gladly would | sacrifice some
cfternoon 10 go shopping with them, in or
der that they might for once at least ap-
pear in the sort Of clothes to bring out their
good points instead Of that which makes
them look twice as tall or fat or thin as
they really ought to look
There is one woman l have specially In
mind-hfteen years ago she might have
been thin, and she has never got over
the idea. Thinking of herself as a mere
slip Of maid she affects lingerie hats
blue ribbon sashes and ankle length dresses
that make her, with her present substantial
style OF anatomy appear like bran
stuffed pincushion. with large. sensible feet
looming upon the horizon. With her
years and her style Of anatomy, she ought
TO be satisfied 10 dress I'm rich. heavy fab
rics and appear statuesque But not shel
She is perfectly satisfied with herself; IN
fact one day, when I was mastering UP
couragerto implore her for the sake Of all
she held dear never be seen In that rose
bud chiffon again, she observed with ali
the aplomb I'm the world, why didn't take
her along the next time I thought OF pur-
chasing a suit? Did you ever,
Then there is another girl have in mind.
Amy IS an art student, and her associates
rave about her being a perfect Burne-Jones
type but to me she looks, with her dropping
loppiness. much more like a perfectly good
dishrag My hands have ached ever since
1 first saw her 10 put pair OF good, stiff
corsets on her and pull them tight. But
she is nice girl, and 1 wouldn't hurt her
feelings for the world-you know how
touchy people are. l decided 10 approach
the matter through her sister and one day
managed to switch the conversation toward
Amy. / held forth at length upon Amy and
her sweet. pre-Raphaelite expression, all
the time thinking hard in my mind, tx. &
Y.'s-pulled tight" Then suddenly her SIS
ter broke out only yesterday Amy was
saying she would give anything TO select
your clothes for year. With her instinct
for line and color she could make you look
wonderful"
None 40 blnd-after all. what's the use =?
NJ. II. FISHER.
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01
ON THE SHELF.

To the married woman and 20 tho spin
ster alike II Ia always a shock % ana that
parties are being given for a younger set TO
which they are not hidden, for the reaN-
zation that these younger members ot soei-
ETY. are chasing them as 'old" Is not alto
gether pleasing. To the married woman
this experience usually comes later than 10
the unmarried. for she Will be asked 20
young gatheringS when a spinster several
years her junior viii be omitted. Whether
this Is because her husband Is still reck-
oned attractive. though married, or be-
cause OF her utility as ehaperon, Is an
open question. but the fact remains. one
spinster lately confessed that for several
days after her first experience at being LETT
out OF party she almost pinehed herself.
saying. "Can this be I that am so slight
ed?" for she dearly loved 10 dance and
never had been a wall flower. Now she
says she has slowly but surely been rsls-
gated to the dinner set. and there abe cuts
out the dsbutantes at every chance abe Ssts
N EsyspGA
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

necessary appointments, a generous blot
ter, deep lnkwell, a box OF assorted pens,
paper and envelopes, telegraph blanks, a
time table OF trains. and also Of the ar
rival and departure OF the mails The
thoughtful hostess who provides these
things may never know Just how much
pleasure and comfort they have given her
guest.
The guest chamber does not require many
chairs. but among the few a big, cosey
forgotten. A mahogany hat tree is a most
serviceable piece OF furniture for a guest
room. often 1t proves Just the place 10
hang a damp garment or a dusty coat,
which cannot go into the clothes closet.
Every we'll ordered guest room should have
its own pretty little ice water set. which
is brought up every night Just before the
retiring hour
In the bathroom adjoining the guest
apartment. besides the customary toilet ar.
ticles. there should be a hot-water bag and
a laundry bag For the use OF the one
night guest IL is happy thought 10 have
provided a pretty bath gown and slippers.
The closet should also contain d rack for
he trunk trays; this arrangement makes
il unnecessary TO stoop when packing
AS general thing guests come provided
with toilet articles, sewing outfits. etc
but when the friend who had not expected
10 stop over" arrives. how che revels in
the complete guest chamber! on the dress
inx table she finds all sorts OF pins and
hairpins, scissors. buttonhooks. shoe laces.
powder box and refreshing toilet water
while on a quaint little table she finds a
generous workbesket, supplied with colored
silks. darning materials. needles. thimble.
bodkin-in fact. everything she could wish
for. The most thoughtful guest will some
times forget these little necessities, and
the hostess OF the we'll planned guest room
is ready TO supply the lack. The happlest
memories of a visit frequently linger round
q charming little guest room, while the
eiaborats entertainments given are forgot
ItAn
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

conspicuous as n finish TO the neck and
edge OF the short open sleeves. has given
place TO an embroidery OF the od-fash-
ioned cross stitch done in self-tones, leav-
ing all the cOlored ornamentatlon 10 the
chemisette.
This cross stitch trimming is also used
on tailored costumes Done in coarse
black silk. It is particularly desirable on
handsome silk and satin coats. Used in
quantities, It has an extremely rich effect
and even a little Of It set irregularly in
the corners OF revers, collar and cuffs, In
conjunction with few large buttons. gives
a markedly chic air These stitches, In
large and small sizes, and the wide silk
braid which appeared last summer will be
the favorite trimmings on new tailored
costumes for late winter and early spring
When this braid IS Of the finest quality II
is extremely decorative. and a little. used
judiciously may go a long way
A tailored costume OF heavy corded silk
sent to the Riviera, had its skirt trimmed
I'm the pretty eighteenth century fashion
with many rows OF velvet ribbon in gradu-
gted widths. this trimming rose TO the
knees A half long coat was trimmed with
2 narrower border OF the graduated velvet
ribbon and the wide 1aring cuffs, OF the
elbow sleeves and wide square collar.
that widened in front into large revers,
was trimmed To match. turning over on 10
rho collar and cuffs were smaller ones OF
finest white null. richly embroidered. and
edged with tiny scallops and narrow Val
enciennes lace.
most effective use OF an old cashmere
shawl turned into q smart costume was
observed few days ago at gathering OF
smart vomsn. The scant. dragging skirt
Of the cashmere was trimmed across the
side breadths With q wide band OF black
satin. The cashmRe corsage pointed UP
on 10 the black satin chemisette In bib
form. 10 tie he. snt ot the bust open under
the arms. il was h.ld in place by large,
nat. satin covered button set in each cor
ner Except that it was much lower. the
back Of tho s9Easss yA nial4eea n. ~,
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

in double loops through a diamond buckle.
Under this bib" corsage she wore low
necked chemisette Of white mousseline de
sole. unlined as II rose over the shOul-
ders. and finished at the neck line with a
row OF tiny white jet beads. twist OF
black velvet ribbon and one Of plain pink
silk wound together belted the garment
and twisted at one side Of the front into
a large fat rosette. And from the waist,
quite separate from the gown, fell mar
row train OF black velvet as soft and
glossy as satin, lined with pale pink bro
caded silk A pink silk rose poised itself
al one side OF the bust. thrust into the top
OF the lace bib and another, support
ing d tall white aigrette, was set IN the
hair.
II was an adorable toilet and simple
enough TO be easily copied Simpler sull
was a gowl of soft white satin. Perfect
ly plain. the skirt appeared 20 be made OF
four straight lengths OF satin OF the or
binary width-twenty-two inche-gathered
TO a round, slightly high waist line. drag
ging three inches In the back IL also swept
the floor on the sides and front Three
seams showed at the back OF the short
WASTED corsage, quite after the manner OF
many years ago. except that II was loosely
fitted, the secret Of modern corsage. and
from the shoulders and from under the
arms came fulness to cross. surplice fash
lon, on the bust. the V-shaped opening was
filled with a three corn-red bit OF sun rib
bon brocaded in tones OF old blue and en-
broidered IN gold Half gold gauze' half
blue silk, the belt matched tho palest tones
Of the decoration on the corsage
With the renewed taste FOR velyets and
brocades the return Of lace Is IN order,
and the heavy laces have supplanted me
ones. A tunic OF heavy lace Ia the shape
OF long stoles hanging straight nom the
shoulders. back and front, open on The
sides. is a valuable addition 10 ward
robe. A separate garment, It may be worn
with several sheath gowns OF any material
or color The ends and the open sides are
trimmed with fringe " velvet psAaA sad
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01
THE GUEST ROOM
Little Comforts Better than
Fine FURNISHINGS.

'Tis seldom nowadays, that the guest
chamber IL alluded TO as the spare room,
though in many cases this would not be
misnorner. For who has not visited IN the
cold. cheerless spare room? The guest
quarters should be as pleasant ana comfort
able as any in the house. II possible, let
4, ba somewhat away from the noise OF the
street and household happenings. Never
select for the guest chamber rooms near
the nursery or the kitchen. No amount OF
money spent on furnishing poor room
can make n into a good guest chamber.
The bed is perhaps the most important
item in the furnishing OF the guest room
whether il be Of enameiIed iroh' Orass OF
n Quaint four-poster. the mattress should
- ,ho ysrv hest Fancy covers by day and
dowuy blankets with linen sheets at night
cannot conceal from the weary guest the
inferiority Of the mattress.
The ughting Of the sHsss EeSia - Aee
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

chased from Mrs. p c. Waring NO. IA
East 18th street Miss Maud Insersol' NO
III East Dist street; Miss Z. Mabel CLARK.
No S21 Madison avenue, and Mrs. Edward
Tauterbach. No. 76l Fifth avenue.
The first Of the suffrage dances 10 be
given by the 21st Assembly District OF the
suffrage party will take place to-morro"
evening I'm Academy Assembly Hall 7sth
erect and Columbus avenue. goodly
rpnnber OF. Columbia boys and Barnard
Girls are expected TO be present, though
not So many as II II were not the holiday
season All who are interested either IN
suffraee or in dancing are invited A room
viii be provided for cards for the benent
~ those who do not care for dancing.
Tickets may be obtained from Mrs William
Rabet No. III West 1Tth street, or Mrs.
robn Dewey No 40 ST Nicholas Terrace.
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

Paris, December Il
Every ono loves the odd little train on
evening gowns OF this season. Its narrow
detached length, square or pointed, drag
ging a foot at the most, IS fascinating All
winter these trains have been Of silk, plain
or brocaded. but recently at smart even
ings at the opera few velvet ones have
appeared. A blond beauty was particu-
larry fetching IN a gown Of white Alencon
lace. with its skirt short enough 10 show
her feet In their pretty pointed shoes Of
white satin, buckled with Strauss stones.
The lace corsage was like a bib" alike az
back and front, and was held together over
the shoulders by a two-inch strap OF black
velvet ribbon. on one shoulder the strap
was quite plain. on the other it was slipped
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01
ASHTON a''0
Their TaSfe in Dress
The Woman Who Thinks She Understands
Clothes DisCourses About Those Who Don't.

have never pretended to be pretty or to
have a stunning figure; claim merely to
he quiet looking, well bred sort OF a per-
son. with a certain sort OF intangible dis
,ipction. At the same time I know I do
nossess what most women lack-good taste
IN dress.
Now, in saying that 7 don't mean for
oue moment that all the clothes my friends
see me wearing are just the proper thing
In the FIRST place. I am a woman of limited
means, and have to wear my clothes until
they are worn out; and I don't believe
anyway, in spending every cent on my
hack, when there are so many other things
IN the worlC 10 spend il on-such as travel
hooks. opera tickets and poor people This
implies my buying good part OF my
wardrobe ready made. and ready made
clothes never At me, and besides, the
yearer OF ready made clothes always sac
rfaces something Of her Individuality
which the made-tO-order woman does not.
Next. like everybody else, great many OF
my clothes were bought at the last mo-
nent. for some special occasion. without
the care and forethought which the always
we'll OEcheeN WoAudn must ueNolt 10 leT dp-
parel. Next, my dressmaker has frequent
" botched my things-but you know one
can't throw away an absolutely new gown
even though the skirt Is not cut right.
And lastly, my sister always hands down
Der old dresses 10 me. and. between you
sDd me. my sisters taste In dress is
execTable.
Yes. I know az this very moment my
Jacket is too shOrt-it was a bargain-and
thst this shade OF brown does not bring out
the copper tints IN my hair as another
color would. Ny only condition is that,
given plenty OF leisure and plenty Of money.
7 should be the best dressed woman in
New York for ny taste in dress is excel
lent
Between you and me, most Of my friends
have no taste at all; and they don't know
~ In cold blood, they will go downtown
and select suits and dresses and neckwear
which IN every detail OF line and color are
absolutely wrong Then they will appear in
public wearing their new purchases with
the utmost complacency never dreaming
for a moment that they looE like guys
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

an important matter See 70 1t that the
dressing table Is placed In good light for
day toilets and that the electric lights or
gas Jets are satisfactorily adjusted for
dressing and reading.
Many times where perhaps one might not
call a room Ill furnished. II seems TO lack
the little comforts" which go so far TO
make the temporary occupant feel thor
oughly at home. Try 10 have the com
pany room look inviting and honey, the
minute It Is entered II the season permit,
have a bright, CHEEKY blaze in the open fire.
place. In midsummer have gorgeous
bunch OF old fashioned garden flowers on
the desk or In the wide window sill. Fur
nish the room with an easy couch. as many
a considerate guest does not care 10 use
the bed in the day time. Near by have a
table with a reading lamp, a magazine or
so. few new books. and perhaps an old
favorite or two.
~ the house commands perfect view OF
the water the garden or lovely avenue
let the guest enjoy IL. Place the writing
desk. or little mahogany sewing table
near the window Supply the desk With the
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01
LOST

some place that is unassociated with such
contrivances.
One woman has lately made hiding places
in the posts Of her bed. Fortunately. II Is
not one OF the beds with truly high posts
or a stepladder might be needed 10 gain
access 10 the receptacles. II stands about
four feet high. and the posts have been
followed out 70 the depth Of six inches and
lined with velvet so that even the most
frail pieces OF jewelry can be placed within
them without fear OF their being scratched
The torchlike ornamental pieces with which
the posts are finished lift in and out. and
when they are in place there is nothing 70
show that beneath them may be hidden
personal treasures representing many thou
sands OF dollars.
Another woman has hiding place for
keys in the back OF medium sized picture
hung In a dressing room. A false back. not
more than an inch in depth. extends across
the lower part OF the picture. II opens BY
means OF a spring which is not readily de-
tectedA And inside are rows OF small hooks
on which the various keys OF the house
hold are hung. those OF each member ot
the family being kept together. From these
hooks rings, bracelets. chains and other
objects OF worth might also be suspended,
although in the cited Instance they are
used exclusively for keys
Another clever woman has made hiding
place in the seat OF chair. II is a French
chair. covered with tapestry. and It has
been so arranged that the upholstery and
springs can be lifted out, disclosing fairly
large scooped out place in the lower wood
work of the chair. Here innumerable
things have been hldden-Jewes. papers
and the last win and testament OF the head
OF the house Few that SIT on this chair
know anything Of its hidden treasures. and
II Is busted and handled daily by chamber
maids. who are not aware that II is in any
way different from any OF the other chairs.
More romantic than bedposts and chair
bottoms and somewhat suggestive OF the
secret panels OF the story books, are the
miniature safes with regular combination
locks which are now placed In many walls,
even those OF apartment houses. Usually
they are small enough TO be hidden By a
picture or a piece OF wall drapery. Such
wall safes have OF late become very popu-
lar They serve the needs Of the modern
woman admirably. since they are very COM
modious. providing ample room 20 store
pieces OF reserve silver, jewels. letters and
the like Women have even gone abroad
leaving their wall safes filed With thu
greater part OF their valuables.
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01
Successful Gos01s Are Simple
Smart French Women Avoid All Excess an'
All Meaningless characterization.

Il IS belted according TO the color OF the
gown beneath.
II is wonderful the variety It is possible
70 achieve in the little mandarin sleeved
over-corsaze Of black or dark toned NOUS
seline de sole: the effect OF variety IS gem
orally gained by the trimming on the
chemisette, for the shape Of the over-oor-
sage remains the same whether for even
ing or afternoon gownlng. The high or low
chemisette marks the difference. New
Chemisettes 10 wear with these little ORR
entail affairs are made Of sheer white
mousselIne de sole, embroidered all over
in an extremely open design; under this a
band OF vividly toned ribbon circles the
figure, or a band OF metal embroidery. The
white bead embroidery. which has been &c
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

In spite OF the numerous distractions Of
the holiday season, about two hundred
women sat down TO the luncheon given by
the Minerva Club last Tuesday. and an
equal number enjoyed the programme that
followed The musical part ~ the pro
Erarme consisted of two groups of songs
given by Mrs. Joseph Edgar. with Miss
Anna Byrre a. the piano Mrs Edward
BsIbech read a paper on current subjects
MIS- Wesley Smith gave a talk on the
Spirit Of the Season" Miss Laura skinner
president or the Daughters Of Ohio spoke
on '"wonan's Sphere" and Mrs. Richard
~. stearns conducted a review OF books, I'm
winch Mrs. J. r Yawger. Dr. Sarah Mac
rutt. Mrs Belle de Rivera and others
so.red. After considering all these weighty
subjects the women still retained energy
enough for an animated discussion on the
seventy-ninth clause OF the Page BILL AT a
hux1n.ss meeting. held at p o'clock, Mrs.
Howard MacNut- Mrs. George Wallace
snd Miss Florence Guernsey were ap-
rot-,,ed delegates 20 the February conven-
tioo OF the New York City Federation OF
wruen's Clubs. with Mrs. Darwin w.
TRUSS. Mrs Frank G. Burke and Mrs :. g.
conklin as alternates.
tbs society will give a special entertain
nent at the Waldorf-Astoria on Monday
January Q. for the benefit Of the phllan-
thropic fund. There will be programme
followed by a dance. The chairmen OF the
various committees IN charge VIII he Mrs.
Emma Erskine Hahn. Nine Marie cross
NSvhaus and Mrs. Alcinous B. Jamison.
Ms George Finck will act as treasurer.
-iek.ts NAV be obtained from Nine. New
haus No. 434 Fifth avenue. or from Mrs.
Hahn.
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

The Pey Dr J. @ Hallimond, supern-
tspcept OF the Bowery Mission, spoke on
the work OF the mission at the meeting
he'd bv the National Society OF the Wom-
.p OF Ohio. held last Friday afternoon at
the Waldorf-Astoria,
A number q new members were WEI
coined ry the National Society Of New Eng
land Women at the regular business meet
Ing. held on Thursday. December ~ AZ ''g
Waldorf Astoria. IL was also annouAceu
thai A new colony had been formed al Al
beny. n. Y, this being the second one 10
come into existence during the incuinOeN,S
Of the present president Miss sara -
Palmer At the close OF the business
sion Mrs. Ralph Trauman, president %
the Women's Health Protective AsSoeI"-
ton. spoke on the work accompAshed Dy
that organization during its career ol i'''
than twenty-five years. ,..i.,,-
At the annual meeting OF inc -.
ton Headquarters Association, held a. ''',
June Mansion last week the fouo"iNs
were elected by the board OF directors
officers for the ensuing year
Honorary president. Mrs samde4 o. -
mey, president, Mrs. Frederick HasDIo-o 'I,
vice presidents. Miss Mary Vanderpoo4'
Mrs. William r. Stewart and Mrs. william
c. Story; recording secretary. Mrs' n N'''
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01

The Womens League for Animals. Of
which Mrs. James speyer is president, Will
give an entertainment on January q at the
Plaza Hotel An operetta, The Dream
Girl" the words Of which were written by
Kenneth @ Webb and the music by Roy
D. Webb will be produced. a number Of
young men and women from the Junior
League taking part Tickets may be pur-
New-York tribune., 1911-01-01
Club and Social Notes

we'll Tutue: corresponding secretary, Mrs.
William Arrowsmith; treasurer, Mrs. n.
Taylor Phillips; historian, Mrs. George w.
Smith, and enrolling secretary, Mrs. c.
Goldsboro