Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-01-08

1OTHING more graceful or MIC
turesque has been seen for a
long time I'm the world of fash
4 Ion than the gowns and coats
which have been prepared for
the midwinter festivities In the case or
all the newest and most successful toll
lets individual tastes have been allowed
TO assert themselves to a remarkable de-
gree, and as a natural result We find
nothing hackneyed or formal about the
modes. In the matter OF dinner gowns
more especially a remarkable grace OF
outline may be noted. as much in the
splendid gold and silver cloths. OF which
splendid draperies are made, as I'm the
beaded and spangled materials which will
be used to fashion the tight "cuirasses'
encircling the slender silhouettes OF our
fashionable women.
Chinon-velvct is one Of the favorite fab
RIGS Tor dinner gowns OF the more dig
nined description. arranged, as a rule on
the prevailing empire and directoire lines
with closely clingng skirts, and short
wasted bodices cut en- princesse. with
nothing In the way OF a belt to mark out
the natural line OF the waist. which f.
merely suggested by the little corsage
inning. TO which is attached shaped and
boned corselet. A favorite color for an
evening gown is light tan. so clear and
pale mat II almost resembles ivory, but,
naturally. 1t is not becoming to every
one Enhanced with dark furs which
seem In utter contradiction with the light
colored tissue. a dress of this kind is only
suitable 10 a woman who can AFFORD "A
great variety of frocks. Narrow border
ings OF fur have come suddenly back into
favor as trimming for evening frocks.
m In lin, Il al,
gown is carried out in peacock blue crepe
de chine, brocaded with black flowers,
with a border of Russian sable at the
hem OF the skirt and on the long, slender
train This dress was so cleveriy con-
trfved that IL seemed a mere drapery en-
circling the body I'm a most artistic man
ner. Above the black silk embroideries
on the corsage. the curve OF the decol-
letage was outlined in sable tail, and then
again above the line of fur came a
tucker of black tulle threaded with q
narrow silver ribbon.
Fashion seems unwilling to decide 1t
the moment between the rival claims OF
the shining soft-toned oriental satins
and the fine silk nets and tulles as ia
yorite fabrics for dancing dresses. So
charming are the models that are being
made just now I'm all these materials that
the simplest way out OF the difficulty will
be to invest in some gowns carried out
in each of them. Certain II Is that I'm the
evening we shall continue to glitter.
gowns i'm gold and silver tissue, lightly
yelled in tulle or lace, being the fad or
the moment, and there Is q great charm
in this mode. due in great measure no
doubt to the fine delicacy OF the fabrics
employed and also to the rare beauty or
the exquisite embroideries with which SO
many Of the gowns are adorned, rhine
stones, crystal beads and all effects in
opalescent colorings and in contrasting
shades making them remarkably attract
i've.
TUNES display more fancy than at the
beginning Of the season. They are fire.
quently opened on both sides. OF cross
over and open on the front, being more
than ever reminiscent Of bygone days.
There are certain blossoms which 10
appear I'm the garden of the miliner -
regularly as their natural prototypes
push their way above the earth every
year to keep pace with springtime. Chrys-
anthemums are a very notable case i'm
point, and already some OF the new hats
are being decked with closely packed
punches of these blossoms tied In long
stalked clusters and bordered all round
with leaves Asters and dahias are gen
orally characteristic OF winter millinery
and are seen I'm profusion on the new
models. large full ones as well as small
ones. They come i'm beautiful tones of
golden brown. copper. yellowish bronze,
of lavender and antique rose.
There is a great fancy for golden yell
lows and sulphur tones in trimmings OF
all kinds Marguerites and miniature SUM-
flowers look particularly effective in these
tints when placed on hat OF dull ele-
plant gray, deep taupe or very vague
antique blue.
Orchids in wonderful natural tones of
soft blue or pinkish mauve, are en-
ployed, mingled with fine asparagus or
maidenhair ferns, on models OF the very
exclusive kind. This flower is also ex-
tensively used as q buttonhoe for the
corsage of tailor-made suits. and some
times the imitation blooms are sweetlv
perfumed with "orkide' scent
What can one say OF the hats? They
are worthy of a detailed description. their
shape, trimmings and elegance being
most happily inspired. A contemporary OF
Empress Josephine mentions $50 differ
ent styles of hats, all Of them popular. &t
the time of Napoleon. Perhaps there are
not quite so many styles this season.
but there is certainly a very generous
number for us to choose from.
In many instances the original shapes
OF these ancient hats are maintained or
reproduced with but slight moderattons
and notifications and this 10 where the
exceptional originality and quaintness OF
the winter chapeau comes In, There Is:
which has been most enthusiastically
welcomed.
The coiffures for evening wear are
equally attractive and the turban occu-
pies the center Of the stage. It suggests
in contour the original eastern turban.
being draped. and fitting closely and
snugly to the head. aigretted or be-
plumed. For the making OF these pretty
evening ''coifs'' tulle, plain or jetted. Is
extensively employed, as well as all the
metallic tissues in gold, silver. copper.
etc. A pretty specimen Is in blue tulis
incrusted with silver. and has, for orna-
ment. a tall slender aigret, producing q
lovely profile line.
Black tulle and a black aigret look
uncommonly well with fair hair, and
light colors with dark hair; or. IL con-
trasts do not suit, it is an excellent plan
to carry out in our coiffures the color OF
our hair.
Lace Handkerchief.