davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

painter why another. when this is per-
feet? Go on reproducing it, -
x
The real styles are products Of fever
ish competition concluded the great
dressmaker We devise fftv models
and perhaps not ten OF them take We
are always on the lookout. minglng with
the best-dressed women. seeing our com
petitors' latest products on them. Lock
dozen of US up in separate rooms and
we would all probably produce very
similar styles for this autumn For ex-
ample, the waist has gone back to its
natural place. and the kimono sleeve is
dead. Who decided it? All of US. and
none of usr'
Yes" | said. but who will make the
big change next spring."
She did not know.
1T is in the air she said what II
is, nobody knows 1t may come like
flash to a single designer-and leak out
and be adopted with fracas. Or il NAV
dawn on a dozen of us at the same time
and attain its vogue TRANQUILITY The
fashionable women of Paris must ratifN
ii. What they choose becomes the style
But they can only choose among the
models You present them"
obviously.
And YOU can only follow the tendencies
which the great manufacturers impose ON
you-by making the best OF their novel
ties
Yes she smiled.
And the great manufacturers have de-
cided for volume and complication?
surely" she laughed with malicious
content. next springs styles will be
neither simple nor skimpy."
STERLING HELLO.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

workmen, and in other places the roads
means graft. In some of our towns the
streets have been torn up and relaid
again and again, and the same will be
the case with roads of the counties which
are contracting for highway improve
ment. First a gravel road may be made
and the contractor will make his profit
off that. Then another vote of the peo-
pie may change the gravel to macadam,
and a third tearing up may change 1t
to brick Millions of dollars are now
being appropriated for roadways by the
various counties and states, but in many
cases the money is being unwisely spent"
"What would be the best system of
road Improvement? ?" L asked.
IF we could have a general road Or
ganiZation such as that of some of the
countries of Europe it would create
revolution in our public highways. Take
France for instance. It's roads are all
under the department of public works.
at the head of which is cabinet min
lister. Each province has its road or
ganization and each district it's road en-
ployes down to the road cantoneer who
has charge of two or three miles of road
way, for which he alone is responsible.
The system Is such that every road in
France is under the direct control Of
the minister Of public works, and IL any
part of the system is wrong he knows
Just who should remedy it and who Is
responsible. Some such organization
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

be cut down one-half. making saving
of $9,OOO.OOO. But this is in the south.
Similar conditions prevail in many parts
of the north, and altogether the loss on
our hauling is one of the biggest leaks
of our whole industrial system
What is the extent of our roadways?'
Il suppose you mean the United States
over said Mr.. Page. I'VE have alto
gether something like twenty-five hun
dred thousand miles of roads of one kind
or another. We have enough altogether,
if placed end to end, to reach 100 times
around the earth and leave some to
spare Much of this length. however, is
of a character not worthy Of the name
road. Some of it is little better than
rock pile. and others are wide tracks
through bitches and swamps. or the
whole only seven miles in each hundred
can be said to have any impr ovements
whatever and on-the most of II the inn;
provements are such as to be unworthy
of note Altogether not > per cent can
be called first class.
But / thought we were doing "a great
deal as to improving our roads, Mr..
Pager"
$50 we arc. but vast amount OF the
money spent does no permanent good.
The ordinary way of handling the roads
is through a road superintendent or super
visor. who is usually a politician and
who knows nothing about roads. In many
cases he patches up the highways in front
of the farms of his principal constituents.
digging out the weeds from the sides and
throwing them to the center. In many
places the road taxes are paid in labor.
This gives unskilled and irresponsible
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22
Located His Home.

NWTHEN the late Amos Cummings was
I" doing newspaper work i'm New
York. said a representative from that
city, "he owned home i'm a row of build
ings painted white. typical Baltimore
block On more than one occasion Cum
mings made a mistake and got I'm the
wrong house. his mind being occupied
with news of the day and wondering II
any of the opposition papers would get in
a scoop on him. He grew tired OF get
ting in the wrong pew. and determined
that he would end it, One morning
there was an advertisement i'm his paper
for twelve first-class union painters. and
the following day an army of painters
went to work on Cummings house. and
il was painted the most flaming red that
eyes ever beheld. Some of the neighbors
and property owners protested, but there
was no law TO prevent a house owner
from painting il just his fancy die
tated.
After this the WORKOUT newspaper
man never had any trouble in making
proper landing when he left his office in
the wee small hours.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

Lyons has spoken for volume.
The dressmakers have spoken for
Zine"
Probably they will compromise. This
is why there is no certainty of the hoop
skirt-although the positively servile &C
quiescence of certain famous style-ma X
ers has walked up Paris-in-vacation with
hoopSkirt shock.
Led by Paul Poiret. they have imagined
for the coming autumn a skirt with a
rigid hem.
Certainly. it is neither the real crino-
line nor its predecessor, which crept into
vogue by way of a horsehair underskirt
The present bell bottom-a very moderate
bell to start with-is swelled out by
single hoop of great suppleness. But il
is hoop-a hoop in the hem of the skirt
And it is not excessive to imagine that
those who launch it are feeling their way
to the crinoline itself.
x
OF course, it has been argued that
new element will prevent large hoop
skirts. This is the tailored gown. In
the days of the crinoline the tailored
gown had not come into existence. Can
they exist together? Oh, fudge. why not?
The tailored has already lent itself to
bell skirts. On the other hand. the hem
hoop now appearing in Paris has been
applied, as yet, only to the bottom of a
white silk cashmere.
The hem-hoop is Persian, but it had
short civilized vogue around $50 VIII
the other great dressmakers encourage
it?
Here are the remaining elements OF
"who makes the styles?" And there is a
fourth--it is a kind of implicit fitness to
the hour and the epoch. Thus the Paris
public really wanted trousers skirts and
the dressmakers wanted to make them
Yet neither trousers skirts nor pantaloon
skirts nor harem skirts could possibly
become the style.
The technical style-designers work is
we'll known. There are two schools-the
architectural and the bouquet.
The architect first gets his idea of a
new style-regularly from some old, for
gotten one. Hunt ng through old por-
traits in museums, bygone fashion plates,
or even sketches OF oriental. Tartar,
African or South American women $
wear, he sketches out the exact thing he
wants, on paper. Then he indicates the
proper tints in water color-and shows II
to the great dressmaker.
The latter-high specialist of tendencies
and customers tasteS-decides at glance
if the new style will do. Then she Cor he)
calls i'm the head of the stores depart
ment to decide if the new style can do
1t is in harmony with the coming tissues?
There. you see the great manufacturers
get in their work. Can 1t be combined
creditably? Only after such consultations
is the first model built up-from water.
color designs.
The "bouauet-ist" begins at the other end.
The head of the stores department brings
him the new stuffs and trimmings. A pa
tient mannequin-girl stands on pedestal
With piece after piece OF new material,
the style-designer Grapes her, compares,
matches contrasts-feeling his way with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22
MAKING New ROADS Tor UNCLE SAN

States over is about 1 cents per hun
dred, while in eleven of the southern
states it is more than Is cents per hun
year 800, OOO, 600 bushels of corn, and If it
had been hauled to the market the total
freight cost would have been over sew
enty-one million dollars. Now. suppose
that four-fifths of this corn were con-
sumed on the farms, and that only
170. 600 600 bushels were hauled In that
case the cost of hauling would have been
more than fourteen million dollars, and
if it could have been hauled as cheaply
as in other states of the Union one-half
of that amount or more than seven mil
lion dollars, would have been the saving
on the corn haul alone.
z * <
THE loss on the cotton crop is very
much greater" continued Mr.. Page. "At
Is cents per hundred the cost of haul
ing is about so cents per bale. and as the
average distance each load is taken is
about eleven miles, the time consumed is
one day. The average load is a little
more than three bales or LOO pounds.
so that it costs about $50 to get each
load to the market The cotton crop of
last year was just under IL. COX, 900 bales.
and to make long story short we figure
that the transportation cost of taking it
to the ginnery and then to the railroad.
including the cost of hauling the seed,
was about $1S,OO0,0OO If the roads were
as good as the average this sum would
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

terials to reproduce each hat fifty times.
But suppose that the foreign buyer asks
for something different in wholesale ma
terials? What will he get? Nothing.
Suppose that the foreign buyer hastens
back for that something different TO
the great retail mooiste. what Will ne
get? Nothing. The great modistes nave
shown him all they have. They can't give
him something different. Their whole
trade each season, is to combine, reahze
and illustrate the forms and trimmings
prepared for the season by the great
Wholesale manufacturers for the Eek
elusive trade
So with the dressmakers. They do not
make the styles: they are merely style
makers Behind Great Jove were shad-
owy old gods who let him do the fancy
governing or Olympus. but kept the fun
damental direction of things to them
selves. So when Lyons speaks. the
famous dressmakers tremble. When Ell
bOeuf and the Rue du Sentier are dis
contented. something has got to happen.
IL Is not SO marked as with the hats, but
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

THE Good Roads of En-
/ rope Versus the United
States-Over Two Million
Miles Unimproved and Eight
Hundred Million Dollars a
Year Lost by Bad Roads
What 1t Means to Our Corn
and Cotton Crops-The New
Government Roads Built as
Object Lessons - What the
States Are Doing-Working
the Convicts-What a Good
Road Costs and How 1t
Should Be Managed-Roads
of Oil and Cement.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

Tor the farmer, stands a building which
has much to do with the United States of
the future. 1t is not connected with the
Department Of Commerce and Labor. but
IL affects every merchant and every one
who works with his hands. 1t affects the
factories. the farms and. in short every
man. woman and child in the country. 1t
Is the office of public roads, where Uncle
Sam is planning how to better our high
ways. II is not an automobile institu-
ton. 1t is working for the plain people.
and its motto is good roads from the
farm to the market. Such roads will cut
down the prices of all farm produce
They should reduce the cost of living and
put money into our pockets.
Have you any idea how much We lose
from bad roads? The scientists estimate
that the cost is over two million dollars
q day, or, in round numbers. about eight
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

the great silk and cloth manufacturers
when they agree-can always put pres
sure on the so-called arbsters OF styles
For six years past theyf have docilely
played into the hands of Che latter. and
the great dressmakers abused. In one
year 19o6-O they contracted skirt bot
toms by two yards!
Think what that means two wards IN
seven-the sales of silk arxl cloth manu-
gown of every woman pretending to
dress In France and the Civilized world!
In 1908 another fifth wass cut off from
the then existing skirt patterns. In
19OG-lO three-eighths were cut off from
what remained. And in 3911 the skirt
that had measured seven ysrds round the
bottom was reduced to Sone-yard-and-
seyen-inch hem.
And where are the bands punches and
assemblages OF embroiderses and gim-
cracks, the pleats, founcess and gathers,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22
DESIGNER HUNTING .BoUaUET.
.DOOOOOOOoc

insertions, puffs and applications that had
kept the great silk houses busy? How
can heavy expensive stuffs and trim
mings be used on the skinny simplicity
of the year 1911?
Exasperated, Lyons has spoken. You
do not hear the voice. nor /. Even to
the great dressmakers OF Paris 1t is like
the low rumble Of distant thunder!
More stuff" So it rumbles.
More stuff in your gown! More trim
mings. Change the styles. Take notice,
we are going to help you.
They can.
This is why the dressmakers are trou-
bied because while they wanted to make
the styles more difficult by mere strata
gems OF cut. here is notice to increase
the volume % material When united on
such a project Lyons and the more ex-
elusive commission houses handling Eng
lish. French and German cloth fabrics
can make up for next year goods that
practically force style tendencies-and
prevent others. Supple. flimsy materials
made the present mode possible.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

easy" says I4aferriere '.In most
cases they present little difficulty of
execution, and require small quantities
of stuff We are working to make 9TH
ers rich We must act at once" Bech-
of-David urges as a kind of first aid. the
considerable frightening of jacquettes.
the shifting of the waist to its natural
place and great deal of fur trimming in
bands. No. says Laferriere. limitation
fur is beautiful and cheap. I shall put
more stuff into everything-rich. supple
tissues and expensive trimmings,
Paul Poiret thinks that he can get
motifs by employing exclusive stuffs. of
vivid, contrasting colors. difficult veil
ings, and rich embroideries At Dire
coils Nine. de Wagner is putting more
making them design the waist-whch,
she says. is certainly fixed. now, in it's
rational place Drecol counts much on
lace-and fur trimmings, employed to-
gether. Flounces will ornament many
toilets. And great nantes will begin
the expense of voluminous stufs
Cheruit is cropping toward it in tunic
effects, basques and double skirts with
rich taffetas trimmed with fur as nov
city. You should see that taffetas. The
Agnes house equivocates with fit and
line" So Premet. Francis and Klein.
THE line" exclaims Premet, the line,
which makes all elegance, the only effect
which cannot be obtained with inferior
tissues and defective CUT
Yes, but" says Francis. lit is exactly
the present styles that make the line easy
to obtain-often by the mere fact of get
ting into the gown. The big shops and
little ,iressmakers have become expert
at IL. Hum. hum; little more floating,
a little more ampleur may hold them,
continues Francis to his chief designer
Inspire yourself in this sense. Find
something that can't fit readymade-some-
thing too difficult for home dressmaking.
Amiable. isn't he?
Not too much stuff" murmurs the
chief designer. Volume permits hiding
a defective cut. On the other hand. vol
ume will embarrass the big shops and
home dressmaking.
"VoIume will be expensive for US. too.
murmurs the great dressmaker. omi-
nously. Material costs--especialy if We
are going to use it rich and heavy Yet
we may be driven to IL. Lyons mas
spoken
He looked anything but masterful. the
great stylemaker. But does he make the
styles? Do any of them make the styles?
No. in the last resort, neither Paquin
nor Redfern. Klein nor Agnes; none OK
them, nor all together,
In Paris hats il is more obvious. The
great mOdistes make novel and astonish-
ing combinations. of perfect taste. They
Invite the commission -foreign buyers
for the whole world-to gorgeous exhibit
tons long before the season opens. And
the commission buying models at high
est retail prices. gets a memorandum
with each hat. telling exactly where its
form and trimmings were purchased.
The foreign buyer hastens to the adj
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

Y the corner of 1ith
and e streets
southwest. just op-
posite the bureau
of engraving and
printing. where
Uncle Sans money
is made. and across
the way from the
new Agricultural
Department, where
the scientists are
making new plans
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22
UNCLE SINS ROADMAST TER.

hundred millions a year. | have had a
long talk with Mr.. Logan Waller Page.
who NaS charge of this road work, and
who perhaps knows more about our roads
than any other man in the country. He
is a civil engineer who graduated at
Harvard a decade or SO ago, and who
for time acted as geologist and di-
rector of the testing laboratory of the
Lawrence Scientific School there. He was
on the Massachusetts highway commits
sion. and then became chief of the di-
vision of tests in the Department OF
Agriculture. after which he was made
public roads. The Improvement of the
roads practically began with him, and
the great work that is now going is
under his management.
according to Mr.. Page we have about
the worst roads of any civilized country
on earth. Europe is gridroned with
magnificent highways. and in France.
Germany and England one can ride for
miles without striking stone or puddle.
Said Mr.. Page:
THE cost of hauling over our country
roads is now about 23 cents per ton to
the mile. In the European countries as
long as eighteen years ago the cost had
been reduced to 10 cents, and it is
much lower today. On some of the roads
going into London, by the motor cars
now in use, it is less than 4 cents,
and by wagon freight can be hauled
almost anywhere on the continent for
from one-haf to one-third its cost in the
United States
Can YOU give me some idea of the
saving that good roads would bring?'
Not accurately. replied Mr.. Page,
but l can show you some figures which
will convince you that 1t will run into
the hundreds of millions of dollars. Ac-
cording to the report of the Interstate
commerce commission in 1906. our rail-
roads handled more than eight hundred
million tons of freight which originated
on their respective lines. All this had to
be taken to and from the cars. A great
deal of it was made up of the products
Of the farm and the forests, and it is
estimated that at least two hundred mil
lion tons of it had haul of nine miles
at a cost of % cents a ton. That bill
alone would represent more than $432
100000. and other freights and haul
ing would run the sum to 100000 900
or over. Now suppose we cut the
wagon freight bill in half. or to liz
cents ton. which is still far above the
cost of hauling in Europe. and the saw
ing would be $25O.O00.OOO a year"
Indeed, 1t Is impossible to overesti-
mate our loss by had roads, continued
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

form and trimming-exactly as you make
a bouquet, trying the effects of single
flowers and bunches-whle two expert
girls stand attentive. with scissors at
waist, mouths full of pins and deft fling
ers ready to fix any effect which the mas
ter may stumble on. L have seen such
a one. in desperation. simply turn an
overskirt upside down-and il made
successful model.
Any one who can find an idea is re-
warded for it. The device of a bunch of
concealed vertical pleats to permit free
movement in this autumn'S skirts was
worth a ten-dollar bill and promotion to
a little sewing hand of the rue Royale.
IAN idea is an idea. no matter where it
comes from. says Nine. Klein The
sleeve novelty of the hour was brought us
by another humble worker. | refer to the
enlargement of the sleeve bottom. Some
cuffs will be turned up-like mems pants
when it rains in London-others VII be
decorated with fur, in general recalling
the ''pagoda' sleeve of twelve years ago.
The remainder of the sleeve remains tight
practical because an enlarged cuff IS
easily compressed in the hand. while the
winter coat is being pulled on-Uhle
puffy sleeve in general is nuisance
But the Klein admits that ii Is all mere
stop-gap. They are seeking, experiment.
ing, whispering in fifty jea' Gus secret!ve
groups-to put expense and difficulty on
you next spring.
They are going to arrange so that you
can't remodel make over anything.
And the mere cost of your material and
trimmings-it makes my heart bleed to
warn you
But perhaps your wife may take it
easier.
No one knows what the change will
be- and it is a wonder how any radically
new style is arrived at. The great dress
makers are always hiding their new
models from each other. spying and
counter spying. A trusted employe sells
a secret but it is false secret gotten up
to befool the bribing rival. Another sells
a real secret-but how be sure that it is
real?
They never come to an understanding.
The Utopian Academy of Style" recent
ly described lin advance by a United
States consular agent and quoted largely
in the American press, never got any far
tner. And, according to Nine. Klein,
such frank styiemaking by committees
of dTessmakers, material manufacturers
and famous painters and sculptors would
be deplorable. 1t would work against
originality, Inspiration and chic.
Great painters as style Makers"
laughed the Klein. An illustrious one
was actually employed. at considerable
expense-and produced the typical sum-
mer girl toilet of the hour just past
We must unite elegance, economy and
commodity he said. and began by cut
ting the neck free. low and round We
must show it, he said, 1T is beautiful
Then he chose a fiimsy, one-t::d fabric.
We must drape. not adjust, he said-and
gathered II in round feet and neck, with
a large girdle of opposing color for orna-
ment. 1t was simple. beautiful. novel,
audacious So we asked him for another
What, another" cried the illustrious
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22

ii Id 10 lioN a
ion article.
1t is to protect
the innocent.
1t will not be
your wife's fault.
She may get
along his autumn
by letting a group
OF hidden pleats
into the sides OF
back of her skirt,
to open when she
ELs~r 4. hi q
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-22
DRES EMIT Styles Too

DRES SENT Styles Too
i Easily Copied in America
Who Makes the Styles?-
Heilig Gives Some Inside
Information" on the Subject
The Great French Material
Manufacturers Displeased
With the Latest Creations
May Mean Return of Hoop
skirts.
Foreign Correspondence OF The Star