Arizona republican., 1911-09-13

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ability to select what she likes or the
fashion writer's qualifications for des-
cribing what is what as the sales
lady. You must take it for granted
that she knows it all; that she al
most inspired the designer and,
whether you really and sincerely be-
lieve it or not, shopping will be
much simplified by assuming such an
attitude beforehand
The American woman'S growing re-
spect for the frocks of home manu-
facture is evidenced in the increased
popularity accorded to the first-of-
the-season styles. Time was when
leaders of fashion would not order
dresses unless they were positively
assured that they We're importations.
Now a majority Of the models that
are displayed in the smart shops for
fall and winter wear originated in
American workrooms, though the ideas
Incorporated in them have been found
in French models launched in late
summer with the vie wof being tried
out for the fall and winter use.
This season our manufacturers and
tailors have made clever guesses. and
since they have in the main observed
wise conservatism, one can not go
far wrong i'm buying the early frocks
and suits. Stripes are fairly ubiquitous
among the tailored costumes. but as
the season advances they will be linn
tied more to the house dresses. shar-
ing favor with checks, which are GO
ing to have a greater popularity than
ever.
The fad of striped materials has
ragged violently all summer, and though
woman kind is sometimes surprisingly
loyal to Il favored mode there is no
doubt that striped stuffs have grown
rather tiresome. Personal opinion dis
counted, however, there are attractive
striped effects in all the modish wool
ems. broadcloths, serges. zibelines, etc,
and there are lovely striped velvets
and silks and chiffons. but many
of these seem likely to be used as
trimmings rather than as frOck ma
terial
As for embroidered effects, there
is a brand new eyelet embroidery.
or broderie anglaise. as you prefer
This vogue is attributed. in cOmpli-
ment, to Queen Mary Of England, who
is said to prefer it to any other
trimming Certainly it looks very
handsome in the light silk and wool
len mixtures. One Of the Fifth avenue
shops displays an early autumn frock
intended for restaurant wear. It is
Of light wooden stuff with a crepe de
chine surface. The color is the most
delicate blush pink imaginable. The
blouse is entirely embroidered with
eyelet work, the embroidery being
done i'm an odd shade Of silk, the
tones ranging from brickdust to
bronze. At the bottom of the skirt
and finishing the sleeves are bands
of satin in the most peculiar shade
Of red that the season has produced.
and although it greatly resembled
burnt carrot, it is called preserve"
perhaps because it is of the same
shade as the copper kettles in which
we do our pickles and preserves.
OF course there are the machine
embroidered frocks for the woman
not higher up" in the way Of finan-
cial standing These are extremely
effective, though and when the bands
of satin in black or dark colorS
are stitched onto the bottom of tine
skirt instead of a hem. the effect
of the embroidery as well as the
color of the gown is brought out
i'm a splendid manner and is so
rich that there is no danger Of TINS
particular vogue. at least becoming
tiresome
Hats. Oh, what a subject for
thought! The milliners have thought
ont all of the possible ways to
increase the size and height % hats
The BUYERS must think out ways of
wearing them without making them
selves appear hideous. One OF the
most distinctive features of fall nil
linerv is the satin bow. This is moth
inc like the bow OF former years
In fact to be explicit, it is not
how at all and there is the point
where the home dressmakcr SHOWS
her lack of skill. Satin by the yard
is used for the trimming, but IL is
looped and draped, rather 'han t'ed
and the manipulation of the satin
which is very lightly wired-ls
task for the gods. The effect IN
general is a bow. but the smartness
,,,b;cb the decoration imparts to a
hat is beyond description.
Then. there are blouses. Paris Is
returning to an old love in this sphere
of dress for the white satin blouse
has sprung upon us like, weli' one
might say a jumping jack out oil
box to avoid the hackneyed mush-
room over night term. These blouses
are made very simply at times Ana