New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-14

make them or use in the ateller. Another
source from which the Paris dressmakers
obtain beautiful embroideries al moderate
sum Ia the large number OF converts all
through the country, many OF which are
now broken up and exist only as lay in
situations, but still support themselves by
the sale OF embroderies that were once
confined to ecclesiastical garments.
1t was fortunate for the comfort Of many
Of the sisterhoods that the fashion for
very elaborate embroideries came in about
the time OF the separation OF Church and
State, which threw so many OF the con-
vents absolutely upon their own resources
An American fashion writer in Paris at
that time tells a pleasant little story OF
how she was able to provide livelihood for
convent Of some thirty Sisters, situated IN
an isolated part Of France. under the guild
ance OF the Chanonesse Nine. de g.,
member OF one Of the aristocratic families
OF France. whose own private fortune was
involved in the fate of the convent. Inc
chanoinesse, awkward in her unaccus-
toned garb OF a laywoman, with snort
hair, cruelty exposed under the coun-
try made hat, all her native and &C
quired distinction and dignity OF bearing
lost under the ludicrous garments which
the law forced upon her outside OF her
convent walls, and accompanied only by
lay Sister dressed in equally tnconsruous
imitation of q ladys maid, came up TO
Paris to seek for means OF placing ner
wares-the only means she had OF keeping
her sisterhood togetrer.
She had no acquaintance save that OF
the clerical world. but happy combination
Of circumstances led to the meeting with
the American newspaper woman. TO whom
the chanoinesse explained her difficulties.
Tho Americans keen business sense and,
above all. her knowledge of the wholesale
trimming establishments Of Paris, enabled
her to direct the reigieuse TO channeIs
where she has now for years disposed OF
all the output Of her convent.
All the countrywomen of France practl-
caIlv know either how to make lace or
white emlrridery, an art they learned from
the Sisters OF the neighborhood or from
mother or grandmother. This work they
take up at odd minutes; the very olo
women or the very young ones WORK WINE
they are watching the cows or tenoihs 'he
sheep, and during the winter, when therc
is no light work in the fields that Calls
for the aid of the women OF the mousse
hold, they employ their leisure IN ihakihs
wards of scalloping or knitting squares or
lace. sold in the Paris market under the
name of Irish" These women receive
very little for their work, but az they are
not using IL as a means of livelihood they
are content, and these laces and en-
broideries. while not OF tho first quailty'
ere largely used by the Paris couturiers
Few persons outside of the trade know
NJ tho care. knowledge and scholarly re-
search given TO the designing Of new fasn'
ions Paris is eminently the city IN when
this work can be best carried OUT IL mas
museums OF old prints, as well as the Ia
nous galleries OF historic pictures. Ihere
are also public collections or OLD gowns
fabrics and laces, and Libraries on the MS
tory OF these relics Of the past, that form
wonderful guides and sources OF Inspiration
both TO the manufacturer OF fabrics ana 10
the designer OF beautiful clothes. These de-
sipners ~ course. never copy, they simply
choose here and there, and with such
taste and discrimination that such an
anachron,sm as a Henri Quatre collar on
a Dlrectoire coat seems right and proper
Evidently the Frenchnran in the business
OF launching fashions is not the equal OF
the Austrian, the Belgian. nor even OF the
English and American; otherwise one can
hardly account for the fact that, with the
exception OF the late NJ. Felix there Is
hardly Frenchman among the DIE
couturiers. Aside from the Maison Worth
two Of the most fashionable tailors OF
Paris are Englishmen. and an American
gave I'D her successful business In Chicago
some ten wears ago to re-estabish 1t In PARIS
whore she is credited with rapidly making
a fortune largely through the clientele
that followed her from Chicago to France.
In nutshell this seems to explain the
curious situation in the dressmaking world
of Partisan American clientele VIII patron
ize an American dressmaker ana pay 'he
duty-a large one-for the privilege OF ouS-
ing clothes made under Paris CONDITIONS