The Holbrook news., 1911-05-19

when I take my walks abroad or at home.
 Definitely I reply: Nothing" and shall continue to uphold this dictum in the hope of making it popular. How can any woman imbued with proper esthetic ambitions, think favorably of a garment which, in the feminine in- terest, ignores the lines of beauty, and has, indeed, nothing to recommend it but its possible conspicuousness? Even this, in the fullness of time, should the fullness of the trouser pre- vail, must necessarily disappear. But l think better of my sister-women than to credit them with the taste of the Turk, and shall decide, for the present at least, to treat the divided petticoat with a contemptuous silence, and finally urging just this main ob- jection to it-it lacks grace. With all its faults this accusation cannot be leveled at the tight-ftting skirts which have provoked some miles of written criticism. The hobble-skirt was, of course, an outrage which was only seriously committed by a few ladies in the remote suburbs or the work girls of the west and east end. But the sheath is again the favorite of the multitude and, when carefully regulated, there Is little material for despising 1t. believe in it with perfect faith, and confidently expect our fidelity to it's Vaccinations. At any rate, 1t makes the ideal foundation for an evening dress of diaphanous or glittering gauge or grenadine. I have just been interviewing such pretty example, the lining of pale pink satin, born in 1910, closely setting to the figure, and over this pale pink chiffon thickly powdered with shaded pink beads of the smallest size, while round the waist and holding up one side of the drapery are a few folds of pale blue satin, terminating in a water-lily made of the pale blue and faced pink, and beneath the decolletage, which is of pink, a chemisette shows threaded with pale blue. The cost of this rem ovation was something under five dol lars, and the result entirely good.
 The making of trimmings in floral devices, and others of satin lined with chiffon, has much favor, and under the influence of these it is simple affair to inspire with novelty the dead leaves of quite ancient gown.
 But why should we talk of reno vations at this moment, when all the new fashions are appearing and when we have doubtless entirely recovered from the disaster of our Christmas bills, and when the requirement of a spring wardrobe is amongst our le- | gitimate pleasures? News from the South of France tells of little else than combinations of black and white and gold and silver, while tailor-made dresses are of dark blue satin or white serge, and every hat Is toque massed with flowers, or bears a crown of tulle outlined with a band of jet and gold, with an erect feather at one side of the back. Shaded feathers, too, are generously patronized, and for these the fountain form contin- ues to absorb much attention. There is deal of talk of the artificial sweet pea. Enthusiasts having christened this the coronation flower, 1t is well on l its road to success and, being ob- tainable in every variety of color, 1t offers itself persuasively. Small crim- son roses closely massed together are also noticeable features of the floral millinery and the bluebell and the pansy form a novel combination which is very attractive. The new straws are softer than the old, but yet the most popular is Tegal, and this in brown, lined with green and trimmed with black, is amongst ac- ceptable simplicities.
 We are not yet thinking of casting aside our boas and our muffs, and find white fox and ermine specially sue cessful to tighten the monotony of the dark velvet coats and skirts.
 Evening clothes are the cry, and just now fancy dress balls are in the air, and it is difficult to meet friend without being called upon to exercise some ingenuity in the devising of the motley The Chelsea Arts club dance is one of the features of the season, and 1t Is almost impossible to gain ac- cess to the studios of the fancy dress artists In the end the crowd will be SO great that only the very unusual can hope to gain recognition, and the very unusual in fancy dress is no easy matter to obtain. A philosopher of my acquaintance has decided that a shepherdess or a flower girl, French milliner, or copy of Gertie Millar as ''The Quaker Girl" should satisfy all girlish ambitions. But 1t Is rumored that there will be a hundred and twenty Quaker girls!
 However, let me return to the spring dress question and realize there is not a very noticeable change between the fashions of this and of yester- year. Excepting for the shortness of the coats and the tilt of the large hats, definitely wider across than from front to back, the similarity Is remarkable The Empire outline for evening frocks must again be recog- nized as on that list of dress which the more it changes the more it is the