Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1911-02-11
STYLES FOR MEN.
The Tide Threatens to Turn From the
Very Easy Effects Now Worn.

There are many who do not like the
raglan sleeve except for the raincoat,
saws writer in the Haberdasher. "Yet
the raglan construction has had Z
pronounced revival this season. among
particular men only, however, on these
heavily mapped garments.
still more interesting, however, Is
the growth of the collar To enormous
width. the unusual depth of the notch
if such it may now he called. the
new shape of the lapels and the size
of the buttons on the butterplate or
der
All these characteristics combine
to make very distinctive overcoat
the distinctive overcoat. / might say
of the present season. There is nc
suggestion of defining the waist, as
in many of the new jackets. the
sleeves are usually fitted with flap
for tightening at the end in wind OF
wet.
This deep cut between the collar
and the lapels is probably an out
growth of the convertible collar idea
one NAV button the front up snugly TO
the chin without a fussing operation
or mussing the coat When comfort
has such consideration as il does in
mons clothes today, one should eX-
pect much attention also to utility
Preference to comfort reminds me
of two changes in shirts. One is in
the formal evening shirt. the use OF
exceedingly fine tucks on bosom
not so heavily lined as to have the
stiffness and starchiness of the plaln
stiff front shirt. | have mentioned
this as a coming vogue several times
and mention il now simply to say that
il has come. No longer can it be
called a novelty.
THE other change is more in the
nature of a prophecy, namely, that
next summer we shall see more of the
starched cuffs on the plated and neg
Hgee shirts than we did last summer
and a consequent reduction in smart
circles of the smart soft double cuff.
on the other hand. l imagine the soft
double cuff will next summer reach
the height of its popularity, which is
a quite different thing.
TThis promised turning Of the tide
from extremely easy effects may
foreshadow the advent of the fancy
stiff bosom shirt to favor once again.
4
ton il and some who will be positive
in denying it, But the return. if it is
TO be within the next year or two
will likely be gradual. | find that
well dressed men of some cities ou--
side of New York have already taken
kindly to the fancy stiff shirt for day
wear. though I must say the attempt
to restore IL in the metropolis has
been dismally unavailing. 1t ought
to come. There is a lot Of comfort
in soft shirt but from the trade
standpoint there is no sense in pre-
senting one style of shirt the year
around Even fashion may be influ-
enced by persistent effort.
Lounge suits have reached the in
tcrmediate state between extreme
shapeliness and extreme fullness. The
double breasted jacket has gained per-
ceptibly among men of social standing.
In single breasted jackets the differ
ence between the American and the
foreign STYLES is that ours have grace
Of contour with roominess while the
Others have IL without There is a
great deal less of buying Of clothes
abroad on the part of discriminating
Americans nowadays.
THE inability of the London tailor
to make the collar sit even toleraoly
well is primarily responsible. | take II.
Our travelling set have learned that II
is impossible for our tailors TO DO
ANYTHING with the clothes they bring
over by way of improvement in fit-
Many a trunkful of suits has been dis
carded on that one account SO. III
our designers have failed to create
really new styles. they are at least to
he credited with knowing how to cut
clothes TO jibe with a mans figure