New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-11-12

Paris November y.
The ouestion-stil unsettled-of fun or
narrow skirts is passionately discussed IN
the intervals OF bridge between the acts
Of a new play and over the tea cups. The
length and ;he size OF the waist also enter
into the discussion. and-most absorbing OF
ar-is the talk OF the threatened crinoline'
Already one prominent. daring mondaine
has appeared In tunic skirt curiously dis
tended at the hem 10 was on a race day
she wore this strange garment Of soft
ash coIored crepe de chine. The skirt por-
ton was gathered thickly 10 round waist
line and the knee deep hem was drawn
into a tiny fril over slender wire be
low IL a short skirt OF black velvet ciuhs
close to her ankles. and the little spencer
that topped all also OF black velvet Du'-
toned once at the top OF the belt WIN
hig, fat button of ash gray passenehIeiis "
With its head turned downward as though
endeavoring 10 peer under the brlm' DIX
black bird rested lightly on the 'front.' cage
OF the ash gray velvet hat Pulled mo
great forness loops all dragging back
ward II was trimmed with shaded green
and ash gray ostrich feathers.
Sleeves also invite discussion. but. in
general il may be said that for tailored
coats the long ones are best liked. This Is
true not only in the case Of the ordinary
coat sleeve. but Of the "chemise' sleeve.
heightened but kept perfectly straight to
end a bit above the wrist. As this sleeve
is open at the bottom. il necessitates long
wristed gloves. and on account OF the ex-
pense Of always being obliged 10 wear them
these sleeves are less favorably received
on a slender figure the Russian blouse
sleeve. gathered a little at the armhOle and
again into a wide Wristband. is a general
favorite' Indeed. the coat 10 which this
sleeve strictly belongs Ia among the smart
est modes Of the season. 10 is particularly
successful achieved in black velvet and
worn with any skirt I'm ones wardrobe,
whether II IS a short skirt Of the same vel
vet or a long one of soft falling stuff,
like meteor creme, marquisette, silk, cash
mere MORE. satin or silk
Though long past its stage Of novelty. the
Marie Antoinette fchU ami the flat bertha
collar are stiIl greatly IN evidence. The
last. in beautiful Venise lace a family heir
loom. was lately worn on the occasion Of
wedding reception py "a charming young
woman. with gown of corded silk of old
fashioned straw COlol, Color again SFfdti'
in vogue for gowns and hats. The dress,
made with extreme simplicity, was fasCi-
mating with its low. round deCOnetage and
the tiniest Of stifly Duffed sleeves that sus-
tanned the weight Of the collar as it fell
over them. The round wasted corsage. cut
with three seams in the back and closing
invisbly in front under a few draped folds.
all quite i'm the old manner. was belted
with a wrinklng band OF the silk. held
by a jewelled slide ralf hidden by great
red silk rose with loose petals. The close
hitting skirt. slightly bell shaped. with a
seam in the back. dragged a tiny pointed
train and closed in front under a line Of
small button rosettes Several inches from
the hem II was left open, disclosing an
under petticoat Of heavy white satin. This
elegant toilet seems 10 De one OF the
few which a little dressmaker'' might
copy with success; and with the addition
OF a long Slowed gnimpe il would not be
too dressy for an afternoon toilet
With the beginning Of The theatrical
premieres-ive the first week and others
Immediately expected-and the running Of