Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-05-21

-HE most popular novelties OF the
season in neckwear are large sailor
1 and round collars. Lord Byron col
lars. fichus, Dutch collars and graduated
side frills All except the f1chus are
much worn on coats and one-piece coat
dresses in wooden and linen materials.
They make the simplest suit very
jaunty affair with very little trouble.
There is an unprecedented use of large
collars and frills on the waists for sum
mer wear. The lace and embroidered COL
lars are in endless variety. and are
square, round. pointed or with fancy
outline, the front finish showing variation
in the round and revers outline, or the
long ends crossing in surpllce fashion.
F'rills of handmade lace. or lace trim
med, both pleated and ruffled. appear on
waists of all styles. The models OF silk.
crepe. satin and fancy materials have the
simple or double frill of matching chiffon
trimmed with lace, insertion and edg-
ng, while lingerie waists show this fin-
Ssh in handkerchief linen or waist ma
teral, lace trimmed In some instances
there is a lace friIl overaid to give q
more dressy effect. Baby Irish, cluny
Ind val laces appear on the more dressy
waists. while linen and less expensive
aces are used for waists of less expen-
i've material.
Some of the newest waists are made
18th detachable fr1lls. The graduated
de frill Is the favorite of the Parisienne
md is rapidly gaining prominent and
veil merited favor with Americans, be-
-ng one of the most attractive accessories
woman can wear. giving softened
fleet to the face, as all ruffles do. The
nost fashionable mode of adjustment Of
The frill to coat is to attach the band
II the frill underneath the lapping-over
lront edge. SO that the frill extends over
'hS V-shaped neck. opening to the other
de OF the coat. where 1t Is frequently
pinned to prevent 1t dropping too much.
5ometimes the frili Is attached under
1eath the front pleat OF the shirt waist
Ina Is then permitted to protrude over
lie coat lapel. \ great favorite is the
side frill, about ten to twelve inches
'nng and six or seven inches wide at
he top, sloping to an inch or less at
lie bottom.
Fichus are the most suitable accessory
hat can be imagined for the dainty
iresses and waists of silk, cotton. wolfe.
unity and bordered lawns. Some of
hem are of very expensive type and are
tdoe VI Iiiiuoif lace, decorated with
eautful trimmings, all white. They can
lly be worn with propriety on dresses
nd waists. never on coats which mode
of wearing would spoil an otherwise at
tractive dress accessory. Little linen or
organdie dresses with rather plain waists
particularly those with surpl.ce or lap
ped-over fronts, are the best foundation
for the fichu. Many OF the imported
gowns of sheer evening and lingerie ma
terials have the fichu as the prominent
waist trimming. Square and rounded
back collars shown on the French models
frequently have draped front ends gath
cred up into buckle fancy pin Some
times those that close in front are adj
justed over to the left side. usually edged
with a frilling of the material or lace.
There are two methods of adjustment.
In one case the fichu is placed up to
the neck at the back. but shows a deep
v opening in the front. while the second
places the fchu around the
shoulders in bertha effect. The Charlotte
Corday collar is in square. round or
pointed effect, but Is always very deep
in back. sometimes almost reaching to
the waist line. while the front ends are