The citizen. (Honesdale, Pa.) 1908-1914, 1911-11-10
TAILORED SUITS ALWAYS MOD

vantages of the plain tailored suit
This season we find that almost
every street costume is braid and
button trimmed.
One wonders what the English
women are thinking of this years
| tailored styles, for the English wom-
an never wears anything among tail
| ored lines that is not mannish and
conventionally correct, if she can
help it, and this fall the perfectly
plain, mannish suit is almost never
seen. Models of this sort are being
made up for wear at Hot Springs,
Tuxedo and other winter country re-
sorts where tramping and shooting
are the diversions, but in town grace
or picturesqueness rather than
mannishness and conventionality, are
evidently the proper thing,
1t is undoubtedly a season of mix
lures, rather than plain materials,
though some tailors are prophesying
broadcloth suits for dressy afternoon
wear after the holidays. Now, the
plain fabric, either welted or with a
smooth lustrous finish, is not nearly
as smart as rough surfaced mixed
fabric which combines white with a
neutral tone, or one color with an
other. Sometimes the trimmings
help out the color scheme, as in the
case of black and white hair strip
ed mixture with revers and cuffs on
the coat of white cloth bordered
with black velvet and trimmed with
black crochet buttons. The suit
Just referred to was a smart model
made up for an October bride and
the sharp contrast of the white cloth
and h1dpk Jolunt with 4
white striped material was striking
and very chic.
Another little tailored suit in the
same trousseau was made of slate
gray mixture showing flecks of violet
through the weave. The skirt had
knee length tunic slashed up the
side to show skirt of violet cordu-
roy, small steel buttons edging the
slash. The coat was rather short
wasted at the back and in front
Fastened below the waist line, a
stunning revers of violet corduroy
with an inner facing of white cloth
running up from the point of fasten-
ing to the shoulder, where it was
joined by narrow violet bengaline
collar. The French tailors have a
way of adding the dominant color
note in collar or bit of trimming,
though this color note is apt to be
repeated-if the wearer is Partisan
in the hat trimming, petticoat
fiounce, or even in a bit of a bou-
tonniere in the coat lapel. Paquin
introduces this color note in a dear
little blue mohair suit in the shape
of stitchings done by machine with
heavy red floss. The buttons are
red with steel rims and there is a
narrow red silk collar at the neck of
the coat.
Black and white have been clever
ly combined in another Paquin suit,
made of black and white striped ra-
tine, mixture very fashionable in
Paris just now. There is a long
tunic slashed deeply to show an un-
derskirt of the material, with the
stripes running the other way and
the jaunty little coat, which fastens
far over toward the right side-an
unusual manner of closing and no
doubt arranged to give variety-has
cuffs of the crosswise stripping.
Above these cuffs are bands of black
and white fox fur and a shawl collar
of the fur complete the coat. This
Paquin suit has sleeves set in with
out suspicion of a gather and end
ing three inches above the wrist. Of
course with these queerly chopped
off sleeves long, wrinkled gloves are
worn.
The notion of separate tunic or
overskirt above a skirt of contrast
ing material grows by leaps and
bounds. All the French suits are
made in this way and American tail
ors are adopting the style in the new
costumes being turned out This idea
of a contrasting skirt will be hailed
with JOY by the women who have
been wondering what to do with last
years tailored suit. Now the mar
row skirt may be cut off, slashed up
at one side and hung over a skirt
or contrasting color or of corduroy,
and wide revers and cuffs of the
contrasting fabric will make the coat
very smart. A last winters blue
serge suit was made over this way, a
striped blue and gray mixture being
used for the new underskirt and for
the revers and cuffs on the coat.
Small ball buttons of steel were used
along the slash on the blue serge
tunic and also trimmed the coat in
little rows.
Two most distinctive styles of
trimmed tailored suits are shown in
the illustration and were worn re-
Gently by the society bellies.
The cutaway coat has a charm all
its own. Little trimming is used to
embellish the costume for it's the cut
that makes the earmark of its style.
The satin-trimmed revers is an
other touch most popular this season
and is finish given to the plainest
suit.
A contrasting satin, inlaid, to the
collar and cuffs, heightens the ef-
feet or style, as well as the price of
the garment.
Francis is Paris tailor whose
ideas appeal to American women be-
cause of their moderation and re-
finement of character. Piret, below
ed by the Parisienne, is a bit too
radical in his notions, to be trusted
by the woman who wants something
sane and practical for American
wear. Even Paquin is apt to offend
American taste by over-conspicuous-
ness-if one may coin the word.
But Francis never turns out a tail
ored suit-for an American custom
kak 60. I. ~