New-York tribune., 1911-12-10

for the hoops every detail Of the charming
gowns worn in La Vie Parisienne," recon-
structed from the fashions Of the Second
Empire. are noted in the gowns of to-day
lace frllls and founces. plain ribbon belts
straight hanging sashes. bows and loops or
ribbon holding skirt draperies. fichus, wide.
fiat bertha lace collars and affectedly ele-
CANT little nothings in shirred, quilted and
| puffed bands of infinite labor and little
artistic result They are adorable, how
ever. these oldtime gowns, lacking the
! hoops! How gracefully the skirts swing In
movement! How gracefully they trail! no"
pretty a round throat framed in filmy
white fichu, and how white, plump shou'-
ders seem rising above a wide collar of
| fine lace,
A better taste in cOlors preVails TO-DAY
/ off and ON the stage. How admlraoie
seemed a gown worn at the Franealse one
/ evening recently. OF soft Venetian NelVe''
| I'm a pale yellow, dul red roses held re"
| folds across the front breadth or the trah-
| ing skirt; this was nearly covered py
| straight breadth of heavy Nenise lace tha'
| hung from high waist line. a rouhd pe't
of bright green velvet struck one as aston
Ishiug, but the magic touch or the maker
had made no mistake. In the same play
slender woman was sheathed In pale rose
colored satin veied with nisht-blue NOUS
seline de sole all OF a beautlful slmpilcitS'
drapery OF silver lace dropped over one
shoulder forming sleeve, the other shoul-
der being finished with tiny pun. AN
other striking color scheme was SHOWN III
a gown OF mauye brocaded satin threaded
with silver. The cOrsage seemed all OF
silver lace with the charming color SHINING
diinly through it.; soft folds or mauVe
mousseline de- sole shielded the arms ana
dropped from the round waist line In long
fringed ends. making becoming long line
An easy and inexpensive way OF achieV-
ing a dinner or afternoon reception toilet
I'm one Of the fayorite mixtures or white
s,a black f. TO have made from a good
pattern d long. plain skirt or sort crepe de
chine silk vOilr or Brussels net In white
or black to wear with ready made top i
Of white mousseline de sole. When the
skirt is white the top should be bahded
with the same material in black, and the
belt or sash should be black, while color
can be- added In the same manner
A personal touch is easily given to the
ready made top by a band OF DfshtlS
colored or lowered ribbon, laid under the
transparent stuff. or corsage bouquet Vi
silk flowers. Fashionable women love 10
mingle with u white and black toilet Dtls"l
Empire green. Ii is particularly eHectNe
There IL no end To the demand Tor lace
I'm evening toilets, and this also tehos
toward economy In doing over gowns II
the lace il coarse or too old to appear
nv itself. il is yelled with tne-mesaei
Brussels net. II II IL In good condition IL
covers an old silk or satin gown, OF what-
ever color. and its quantity may be IN
creased. II necessary. by mingling TWO
three and even four sorts OF lace into one
perfectly harmonious whole.
Not AN old gown, but new one. JUST
sent home from great house of the Rue
de la PaN. shows several textures III "'
makeup over rOse-cOlored satin io''hud-
tlon hangs an overdress Of tender green
mousseline de sole With It's top euse
shaped I'm shallow curves Knee ueoP
nounce OF white net Is trimmed near the
hem with several rows of tiny green NeiNet
ribbon: fichu OF the same net that hedI'l
covers the corsage is frilled win oouo"
rows narrowly edged with green. Iuc
sleeves Of green mousseline DE sole iaI W
soft puffs over the elbows. rms gown -
,urned INTO an afternoon gown by the ao-
ditlon OF high-necked and lonB-sleeVe'
chemisette OF white mousselne de sole ana
finally IL IL finished with one long sash emu
OF wide black velvet ribbon. hea'iIy
fringed hanging from a large Jeweied
ornament in the middle of the back.
The wide lace collars so fashionable at
| the moment are quite easily made from
piece lace. band OF ribbon, velvet. or
tiny frill finishes the edge In a manner en-
tirely up TO date. While collars that drop
! I'm a deep round at the back are still liked
the newest collar Is shaped at the back
in a long. sharp point. and in front II iallS
| In square revers, framing square neck I'M
| lsh. Sometimes the point falls far below
/ the waist line.
/ Among the eighteenth century ornaments
! that have become fixed i'm favor are small
square. round or oval buckles OF shining
! cut steel used after the old manner, To at
, tach neck band OF narrow black VelVet
| or a wider band that does duty as brace
let. A white neck and arm seem whittier
/ than ever I'm contract 10 the blackness oi
| velvet. Little black velvet bows, with the
! loops slipped through steel buckles, are
/ used TO decorate sleeves and corsages.
| Women who take time by the forelock IN
/ the preparation of their gowns Tor early
| spring or for southern journeys VIII do
well TO remember that the spring rage Tor
taffetas promises to be excessive House