Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-10-05
NEW IDEAS ABOUT
THE FALL WAISTS

Separate waists, passe for season or
so, have returned into favor with re-
doubled vigor for the coming fall and
winter. A separate waist and two-piece
suit of velvet or cloth will be good al
most anywhere. for they run from the
simplest tailored taffetas to the most
as an evening gown.
The most striking and original feature
of the new waists is the prevalence of
one-sided trimming effects. Many of the
models are cut and trimmed in such a
way that one side appears to have no re-
lation to the other, different materials
being employed and contrary lines for the
two sides. The new blouses are the most
elaborate and colorful in all the twenty
years existence Of the separate waist.
It is interesting to trace the evolution
OF the separate waist from its simple
beginnings score of years ago. Its first
appearance was in the form of a silk or
cotton waist-shirt waist-made exactly
like a mans shirt, including the small
! yoke in the back. the ungraceful shoulder
; the lingerie blouse. thing Of tucks and
embroidery and lace. This sprang into
| wide popularity at once for its feminine
daintiness. Cotemporaneous with 1t was
and trimmed in bias bands of the same
material. Solid colors. but especially
plaids In reds. blues and green's. held sway
in these. Succeeding them came the lace
and net blouses, whose wide popularity
and cheap imitation soon relegated them
to the bargain counter. Next were the
latter-day voiles and chiffons. and now
we have a revival Of them all with In
Vulnerable new ideas culled from the best
of past seasons. and entirely original
fen triad hof0ra
They come In wonderful variety of
fabrics, including chiffons. messalines.
| taffetas and also Chinese and oriental
brocades, all Of them adorned lavishly
| with laces and embroideries. The beaded
trimming of a season ago has been super
| seeded by newer decoration, worsted en-
broideries in oriental colors and motifs.
Hardly a waist, except the most severely
tailored, Is without a touch of lace, and
many Of them are almost covered with
IT, This IL used as deep collars and re-
vers. fchus. the ubiquitous frill or as a
foundation for an overstructure of chif-
fon.
Contrary to expectation. the kimono
sleeve still fingers, although in many in
stances 1t is overdraped in such a man
ner as to be unrecognizable Most Of the
handsomest blouses are high-collared,
though the collar Is OF the the most diapha,
sleeves still holds good. but long sleeves
show a slight indication Of returning.
Fortunately for the too thin or too fat
armed sisterhood. the very short kimono
sleeve that so mercilessly exposed our
bones this summer has disappeared.
There is a new length. now called the
seven-eighths sleeve. This is not particu-
larry becoming. however. to any but the
prettiest hand and wrist.
Taffeta has ventured out of the field
Of tailored simplicity into the realm of
fancy waists this fall. 1t Is new soft
sort of taffeta, with a lovely. sheen. One
Of the prettiest of these seen in the
shops is Of an old plum color bordering
on an amethyst. The trimming consists
Of quaint upright string Of small roses
made of silk and gilt gauze. A high yoke
and elbow sleeves edged In lace to match
complete this attractive semi-tailored
creation.