The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1911-10-03

fullness in skirts is the latest dictum
Of the rulers OF fashion. OF course,
the change Is by no means sudden.
There is merely gradual transact
ion, but it is noticeable even to the
inexperienced eye. To be sure, the
average frock is straight in line, but
here and there one sees the double
skirt, the triple skirt, the skirt Of
tiny frills, and this note of fullness
becomes more insistent as the sea-
son advances.
The great fashion designs of Paris
are beginning to bring out models in
which fullness has decided place.
Narrow flounces are seen on the
hens of frocks fashioned of chiffon
and gauzes. The straight wide
hem and the band of satin finish
ing skirts has claimed the attention
of fashionable women for so long
a time that change of this sort
Immediately calls attention to itself.
There will undoubtedly be an
effort on the part Of the more pro-
|grcssive fashion makers to widen
the skirts very perceptibly; but this
is not likely to be taken up, at least
during the early season. Frills Of
valenciennes and narrow laces will
go to give new skirts the desired
fullness. Yet even these are soft
enough to hang perfectly straight;
but give delightful frou-frou eff
feet without actually widening TO
any perceptible degree the general
lines.
A dainty model of founced silk
muslin had a group of lace frills
'set close to the hem. The bodice
was almost entirely of lace, with
three overlapping frills of lace form
ing fichu effect. A sash and Cir
die of soft peach-pink satin COM
pleted this simple but handsome
costume. Width is also introduced
in some cases by slashing the skirt
on the side from waist TO hem and
inserting an inverted point Of some
contrasting materila or trimming.
Pleats that lap under and only are
noticeable when the wearer walks
are another way of obtaining the
new line of fullness.
The coats of very short hip length
seem to have gone entirely out of
fashion, which will be gratifying to
many women who found those coast
exceedingly unbecoming. The be-
lief that the new coats would be
more closely fitted seems TO have
been without any foundation, how
ever. There is a slight curying l..
OF front and side lines on some Of
the new models, and there are, OF
course, certain belted and girdled
models which are loosely held in,
but the average coat keeps its loose,
straigha lines and its shortened waist
line in the back, an effect usually
obtained by clever cutting and hand
ling OF the side sections and various
seams.
That the kimono sleeves has every
intention OF surviving the change Of
seasons is evident. Even among
the best OF the imported MODELS one
finds 1t, and the domestic models gn-
hesitatingly confess allegiance to Il.
but long sleeves are feature OF
some OF the most successful frock
and blouse models, and Il seems
safe to prophesy that the ultra-mod-
ish woman OF the winter will choose
long sleeves for her daytime frock.
One of the best models seen. a
black cloth stunningly embroidered
in blue and dull yellow OF a sulphur
tone, bad a long close sleeve Of
black chiffon with a little finish OF
embroidery under the chiffon where
| IL fell over the hand. and with a
fold OF yellow chiffon and a shorter
fold OF blue yelling the very top Of
the sleeve and disappearing under
the embroidtred cloth at the arm
hole. Other models showed the up.
per part OF the sleeve slightly full
and joining long, close sun or an
upper sleeve with close under sleeve
A chic velvet frock Of fine stripe IN
green and black had its sleeves down
sfar as the olbow In the velvet and
comfortably loose though not full
ed Just above the elbaw II bellet
a very little and was continued b.
fine black net for depth OF per
haps tour inches. The net wa,
drawn into close band OF the vel
vet. which headed what may b,
called long, close cuff formed b!
two sections OF net separated by ;
band OF velvet
The frill falling over the hand !
a feature Of the newest and mos
modish lingerie blouse, long sleev
ed. Of course, and Of many othe
blouscs and bodices as well. Thi
feeling for the long sleeves Is as ye
confined chiefly TO imported models
and among the cheaper costnm
blouses and frocks one seldom see
long sleeve. but thre will prob
, ably be a change later II the foi
eign influences itself clearly felt. an
the long sleeve Is once more accept
/ ed by the fashionable folk.
Among the handsome material
employed IN the most recent mode
|, imported from Paris superb broci
4 des and velyets are conspicuous.
very large number Of the most beai
I tiful brocades have gold IN comb
I nation with color. the gold bein
more or less In evidence. accordin
TO the besign. Sometimes one
u