Gilpin observer., 1911-10-12

Northeastern Kamchatka famed our smouldering
Imagination into brightest flames.
There's race of men that don't fit In they are
always tired of things that be; they want the
strange and the and they don't know how to
rest My dear old 'pard. Austin. and belong to
this legion of foreopers never enlisted and never
discharged. The fond hope that were going
to be numbered amongst the original Forty
Miners" of a new California yonder, "'crost
the bay" lured from the Yukon even to 81
beria-to Vladivostok.
There we were Joined by a kindred spirit,
young Russian mining engineer. Ivan Ivanovitch-
enough he became plain Jack-fresh from
an American college and ready for adventure.
Kamchatka, dependency OF the maritime prov
ince and administrative district OF Petropavovsk,
has been a Russian colony for over 200 years.
From Cape Lopatka the large peninsula's south
most point. lofty mountains, overtopped by many
active and more extinct volcanoes stretch north
ward far into the Arctic waste
On the northeast coast, there where the noun
tain chain recedes over thirty miles from the low
littoral. the Pankara enters the sea, opposite to
the large island OF Karaginsk A gloomily beau
tiful thundercloud overshadowed the densy wood
ed shores when landed at Ola. the little
Koryak hamlet near the Pankara's mouth. In the
of few hours steamer, 'Primorsk."
had discharged our earthly possessions and the
cargo consigned to the local agent of the Russian
Chartered Company. who holds the furring priv
fleges of Northeastern Siberia
Open-mouthed natives gaped curiousy and
thousand hostile-looking dogs snarled viciousy.
The Natchalnik, however. having minutely scru-
tinized papers. received with open arms,
and Father Juvenal. the Pope, offered us the hos
pitality of his log cabin We learned many inter
esting facts about this outof-t f-the-way neck OF the
woods that night The peninsulas mongooid
aborgines. the rapidly decreasing Kamchadales
proper-mostly hshermen-dwell around the
ter courses to the southwark.
Their northern neighbors, our friends the dog
Koryaks" mighty hunters and trappers. live in
log cabins, dug-outs or skin tents They belong
largely to the orthodox church-at least nominal
ly-are good natured and hospitable. but their no
uons OF cleanliness are more than Questionable
The occasional sight OF our toothbrushes once
caused riot OF an amazed mob Both the women
and the almost beardess men alike braid their
hair into two plaits smoke the cheap Moharka
tobacco. intermxed with birch bark. and
nearly identical dresses OF pelts or-in summer
gaudy calico.
Further On and up to Kamchatka's border. the
strictly nomadc reindeer Koryaks," addicted to
weird shamanism. pitch their yourtes wherever
good feeding grounds attract their herds. Be-
yond their territory find in the interior. Tun.
guse tribes. along the seaboard the unconquered
race Of the Tchuktches. that stouty refuse the
Yassak to this day.
The Pankara has n length OF about 80 miles
The advanced season and preliminary examina
tion OF accessible rock formation, combined with
encouraging reports of white and native residents
prompted us to prospect the upper valley without
delay. The Natchank placed the only three pack
horses at our disposal, rather shaggy, but hardy
Irkutsk ponies. able to shift for themselves even
in winter. AS guide and helper engaged the
Koryak. Peter. nicknamed Petrushka- Parsley
from his fondness for this wild plant. Petrushka
Of course was speedily pared down to Pete. as
Ivan has surrendered to Jack long ago.
The village Of Ola is happy. A sweet fragrance
Of fish and blubber permeates the air. for seal
and salmon were plentiful.
Pete. very busy. very important helps with
our preparations for the prospecting expedition
The Natchalnik invites to farewell dinner
deer tongue, ptarmigan. smoked and salted fish,
much ten and more vodka) and on the 18th day
of August set out.
On the third night encamped in the
foothills.
Even here at the threshold Of boreal dreariness
nature unfolds An almost pathetic beauty. I'm