Lincoln County leader. [volume] (Toledo, Lincoln County, Or.) 1893-1987, 1911-11-17

ENXN out from time to time the
IN 81 wardrobe would become a
a monotonous problem. III
1t is not the shape Of the collar or the
depth of the cuffs 1t is the style OF
the girdle that pronounces the cos
tune fit for general criticism. The
waist line may remain at certain an
gle and the skirt show exaggerated
hines in one extreme or another, but
III the general chic Of the tout ensem-
ble Is not altered the smartness Is
lacking. A touch Of color here or
there often brings out the finer quail
ties of the gown, and to introduce this
particular touch of quality requires the
hand Of an artist.
One of the smartest color combina-
tions of the opening season is violet
with magenta, but unless the colors
are absolutely correct and brought to.
gether in just the proper way, the ef-
feet Is lost On a tailor-made of un-
usual note these colors are successfully
introduced The body of the gown is
of rich violet diagonal cloth, while the
cunning little waistcoat Is OF magenta
velvet Of the most fascinating tone.
The coat is made with the high waist
line and big pocket flaps trimmed with
ornate buttons. The short sleeves car
ry out the same idea and their cuffs
turn back just enough to show the
magenta satin lining The waistcoat,
however, is closed with small buttons
covered with satin of the same tone.
New Features Are Many.
II one were to attempt detailed de-
scription of the new smart touches
many pages would be required to
chronicle the story, and even then 1t
is doubtful whether or not all the new
features brought out this season would
receive proper treatment. Big revers
continue In vogue and as often as not
one huge rever Is seen. With the tall
or-made gown the smart touch Is found
in the very broad jabot that extends
from the thoat across the front Of
the coat to the shoulder, where it Is
pinned. The newest jabot of this
character is narrowed to the bottom
and Is Joined to band of heavy lace,
which covers the front pleat Of the
shirtwaist..
The big collars and jaunty little
Jacket effects. both back after several
seasons of disuse. are among the most
successful accessory treatments for
restored frocks, Black and white and
green and white stripes trim so per
cent of the smart outing dresses. A
stunning little pongee costume seen
the other day had bias band Of green
and natural pongee color around the
long tunic and forming the big shaw
collar of the diminutive jacket The
band of stripes was piped with plair
green Another striking costume dis
played at the same establishment was
of soft blue Japanese crepon pipe(
with scarlet satin. shaped girdle o
the satin closed at the front with thre,
big buttons. Odd color combination
are high in favor this season, and tn,
more unusual the tones the better.
Effective Stripe Combination.
A very striking costume turned ou
by Fifth avenue dressmaker is o
two-inch stripes of white and brigh
blue. The entire plain close skirt 4
Of the stripes. while the eccentric jack
OF is of the plain blue satin. with ez
tremely large collar and cuffs of tn
stripe The coat Is wide open at tn
front and has deep frill of lace fillin
the opening A blue cord and tasse
cross the sides of the coat and knot
at the front. falling to the hem Of tn
skirt The hat shown with the gov
is of bright blue French felt trimme
with straight long ostrich feather
mauve, which stands upright at tn
back. A canteen bag Of generous siz
was Of blue suede trimmed with heav
cords in mauve silk.
One Of the most attractive gowr
worn at an informal dinner the otht
evening was of cerise taffeta. made
the simplest possible manner, wit
long plain scant skirt and short wais
The waist was becomingly draped wit
a handsome lingerie fichu of the dai
test French embroidery and lace, vii
a single red rose tucked into the bel
The cachet Of the costume was goo
deal the way the fichu was drape
which gave the air and chic of the OF
fit. Not every woman can drape
fichu with the little touch which max
simple performance an artist
achievement. The least effort on Il
part Of the woman often produces Il
best results.
Separate coat collars of organd
peasant laces and embroidered batis
are now occupying the center Of t