New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-07-02

Paris. June q.
Among the materials launched this sea-
son for tailor costumes. the new silk serges
and crepons of mixed silk and wool are
those which give the most satisfaction. In
addition TO the softness Of their weave,
which allows them to fall in the straight
folds demanded by fashion, their frmness
is sufficient TO make it possible 10 dispense
with a lining, IL desired. III fact, unlined
Jackets are quite the thing. Even the thin
nest of materials, like dotted muslin, Is
made up into jaunty little coats without
lining Charmingly incongruous are the
tailored costumes Of white dotted muslin.
All the edges OF these coats and skirts are
trimmed with tiny shirred frills edged with
narrow Valenciennes lace. and through the
transparency of the coat one may discern
the high wrinkled belt of colored silk and
clearly trace the design Of the lace blouse
worn underneath. White stockings ana
suede-topped black patent leather shoes
are worn with eseSghite summer gowns
The hat is white and the parasol matches
the belt
Simply made dresses Of white crepe
heavily embroidered in raised stitches are
quite the thing for afternoon wear at sum
mer functions. In addition to the hand
some embroidery on these materials Is
elaborate beading accenting the emoroid-
cry, marking flower petals and veining
leaves. For country morning wear are
sweet little dresses OF striped pink ana
white batiste worn with wide collar ana
cuffs of white embroidered linen with
touches Of black in velvet belt and
few large velvet covered buttons. Topped
by broad-brimmed hat of yellow italian
straw, It's brim coquettshly dented with
long brides" of black velvet ribbon and
trimmed by a bunch OF pink roses, such
costume in spite Of its simplicity is con-
spicuously chic.
Extremely practical ere tailored country
costumes Of heavy linen in plain colors-
dark blue. mustard, tabac brown and old
rose-trimmed with the ordinary striped
awning cloth. or with heavy white linen
striped the color Of the costume. The avn
ing cloths are newer and they have
fetchingly bizarre air, appealing 10 women
Of sufficient dash to support it. on tabac
brown coat and skirt costume the trim
ming Of the awning cloth was confined to
the coat. appearing only in large. sharp
pointed revers, large square cuffs and
half belt across the back. Big buttons COW
cred with the stripe Of the awning cloth
continued the decoration
With the advance of the season white
pique is used as facing on costumes Of
silk and linen. Lately seen was one of dull
olive green linen marked into half-inch
spaces by a fine line OF white. The wide
revers and small round cuffs of white
pique. with white piQue buttons. gave this
costume a quite unusual and enticing air
of freshness, further enhanced by a little
hat OF white tagal Haunting a cluster Of
white heron's feathers And white pique
played a pretty part in a costume Of dark
blue silk with inchwide spaces lined with
white. over the white pique skirt hung a
little overdresS nearly as long, curving in
front into a deep arch the little coat, clos
ing below the bust had a rounded arch TO
match that on the skirt. There was wide
shawl collar of the pique and a two-inch
band of 1t showed below the short open
sleeve.
While the latest races have been ex-
tremely dressy, the favorite costumes are
the little "tailleur." and the dress costume
Of dark changeable taffeta. Fringe of all
widths and Of all sorts trims them; it
edges the hens Of little coats, the collar
and sleeves; long strips Of silk. trimmed
all around with fringe. wind the hips like a
sash and tie in the back. dropping long
ends. A new black taffeta costume seen