Semi-weekly herald., 1911-04-17
FADS AND FASHIONS.

recent openings the importers have
shown wonderful variety of the
most beautiful trimming materials
ever displayed in this city. Tho man.
ufacturers have indeed surpassed all
previous records In regard to variety,
texture, color, design and artistic beau
ty of these materials. Never before
have so many beautiful laces and such
clever limitations Of handmade laces
been shown as this year. Bold laces
especially as the importers show
among the most emphasized types of
the seasons trimmings, though there
are plenty of French laces, filmy as
cobwebs, and the fine old needlework
laces of the lighter sort are eminent
ly desirable for many purposes, as
are the clever limitations of them.
Never has the imitation or copying Of
real laces reached such perfection as
it has this year, and it is often diff
cult even for an expert to distinguish
some of the machine-made reproduc-
tions from the real thing.
The heavy filets, Venetians and
combinations are used upon the filmi-
est of stnffs, and though guimpes are
as a rule exceedingly sheer, the great
makers do not hesitate TO introduce a
guimpe of heavy lace when their fan
cy suggests such whini. The col
lars shown in the shops are worthy
of careful study this year aud many
Of them might easily be duplicated,
collars of lace On embroidered muslin
in great variety Of shapes. They
also show collars of those materials
so designed that they may be sepa-
rated into sections and changed in
shape or size without inpairing the
design of embroidery or lace. Cir
dies, sashes, jabots, guimpcs, all these
details are important and one can
obtain a host of valuable tjpts con-
cerning them from the French model
frocks in the various fashionable
shops.
As was to be expected, the tailored
suit promises to remain in favor.
Twenty-four md twenty-six inch
straightcut jackets are distinctly the
best thing, fastened with three or four
buttons. In some cases the fronts
ore square cut, in others rounded,
while few have the cutaway effect.
Several Of the new styles are fastened
very high in front, and among the
most favored collars are the notch,
shawl and sailor varieties, the last
mcst prominent Of all.
The skirts for these scits are still
cut on narrow lines. but not extreme
measuring at least two to two and
one-half yards around the bottom. In
many of the narrower skirts flat
pleats are let in at the front, back
or side, To give ease in walking. AN
of this is true Of the severely tailored
suits; semidressy models are also in
favor, however. Many Of these an
in satin and some in surah. The jack
cts are from twenty to twcnty-four
inches long, and though many have
been cut In box effect, the raised waist
line characteristic Of the Empire
styles is also in evidence
This Empire effect is gained in va.
rious ways. Sometimes the coat is cut
shortwaisted and is Joined to q pep.
lum. Again, the front and back forms
are cut straight, but the side forms
have a raised seam several inches
above the normal waist line. As q
third variety, the Empire effect is
gained by the manipulation Of trim
mings. Paris also favors Eton jack.
cts and boleros, some with a small
frill at the bottom to give = finish
ing touch. These, which follow the
new cheyenne styles are known Il
cheyenne boleros.
Many of the semi-tailored modeli
show three-quarter sleeves, nearly
always cut in kimono form, or one
with the body Of the garment. The
Charlotte Corday collar il another new
touch. 1t IL rounded in the back, snd
Genes over the shoulders TO form rev.
ers in front which are sometimes
crossed in fichu style, 70 ~ TO msst
at the waist line. The inoroyable rev.
ers are also shown, ~ well as the sof'
draped revers which are just begin
ming TO come into favss.
Except in the very drsssisst suits
skirts are Of walking length. Nsari,
lall he YrsncA s1jts azs nlads ~