Semi-weekly herald., 1911-04-10

putting them to bed.
without being too youthful in effect.
The guimpe Of plain chiffon in white
or flesh color is frequently used and
the plain fine net or fine fancy net is
greatly liked. Occasionally one sees
heavy lace guimpe in a model COM
ing from prominent house and
guimpe Of plain sheer chiffon with
line or two of colored stitching holding
the narrow hcm at the high, close
collar top, and perhaps repeated
around the bottom Of the collar, is
used for some unusually pretty French
models in voile, chiffon, foulard, etc.
The French makers have done won-
derful things with scarfs and sashes
and girdles, and wonderful things too
with skirt drapery, many of the love-
lest models in very soft materials
having intricate and graceful skirt
drapery instead of the straight En-
pire lines or the straight simple tunic
or fettered lines which have been so
generally exploited during the win
ter. There are still plenty of the
latter, though the fetter or hobble
idea in its entirety has passed, but
the most beautiful Of the skirt mod
els are the draped ones. Naturally,
the worst failures too are in this field,
for there is no other thing in dress
making which SO positively demands
artistic inspiration as does drapery,
and no bungling hand can triumph In
this regard.
The plain clinging skirt, opened ut
sides or front to show petticoat or
pantaloons is still much used, but
many fashion authorities doubt that
the pantaloon idea will ever become
generally popular with the women in
this country. The effect Of this style
OF skirts is more bold than artistic,
more conspicuous than beautiful or
becoming.
Speaking Of the latest innovations
in fashions prominent designer OF
women's apparel in Paris said the
other day, that Paris women are try
ing to persuade themselves that they
are weary of the Grecian empire mode
and that they would change it at the
first favorable opportunity. There is
undoubtedly truth in what he said be-
cause every woman in Paris loves nov
city and delights above all in chang
ing the style of her gowns. At the
same time she understands better than
most women the kind of garment
which is most becoming to her. For
that reason 1t is quite possible that
the Parisiennes will not be too eager
to make a change from the present
style, which is SO extremely becoming
to large majority Of them.
Adjustable flounces to pet: oats
are not entirly new, but until recent
ly it has not been easy tn buy ready
made these convenient transforma-
tions. Now, however, one can indulge
in close fitting jersey top, which
will outwear half dozen flounces,
and with it several ruffles to button
on. One of these flounces can be Of
soft satin, finely anticipated and
edged with ruche; another more
serviceable of moireen, tucked and
with narrow plating at the bottom;
third Of changeable silk. These
flounces are finished with button
holed band, while buttons to corre-
spond are placed on the petticoat. In
this way It Is easy to use up rem
nants of dress Innings and have pet
ticoat to match each gown. Such .
petticoat is convenient for the trav-
eler, as the flounces fold into n much
smaller space than the same number
OF skirts.
Ties Of narrow velvet, edged with
tiny satin flowers continue in favor.
One to be worn with lingerie blouse
is made Of an inch-wide strip Of Irish
crochet. 1t rounds the neck, crosses
in front and falls to the bust in round
ends. The crossing is held by q bunch
Il pink satin roses and green leaves
while wreath outlines each end.
| A jabot is made Of plated white
net finished with quarter-inch hem u
the side and an inch hem At the bot
tom, with . half-inch band Of pinl
null or other mercerized material or
which are worked white coin dots II
satin stitch.
/ A smart tie to wear with turned
down linen collar is made CT e marrow
insertion of Irish crochet tied in I
double stiff bow with strapped kno
and two ends falling well below III
bust lins, whsrs they ars fnishsd y
fringe sr crothsted psndartss 4
4 Another fashion Is TO wear = cola
and jabot Of dotted net or the hsav,