The Birmingham age-herald., 1911-10-03
From the New York Sun.

From the New York Sun.
 IF the people of Europe can and do
 make variety of wines from grapes = which, except in a few minor details all resemble one another. the Chinese in like manner can manipulate rice
 For various reasons the grapevine is not extensively cultivated in China. The Mongolians do not believe in growing plants for drinking purposes alone, and this presumably is sufficient cause for not raising grapes for wine making. On the other hand rice is a staple article
 To attempt the task of telling when the ert of making rice liquor was introduced in China would be ridiculous. Records said to antedate Christianity by two thou sand and even three thousand years show that 1t was not only a matter of com- merce, but was also subject to tribute or taxation. Early travellers also tell of the rice liquor they found in every part Of the empire
 The best quality of rice wine is known as Mandarin, and it is so costly that only the most wealthy can afford to use it, and then only on special occasions. The rice from which it is made is of a par ticular species in fact, it is not edible, and herein is a contradiction to their oft made claim of not raising anything for drinking purposes alone.
 Mandarin, according to all the rules of enology, is a wine, as it is the result of fermentation only. But the making of it is more arduous and exacting than that of grape wine. After the harvesting of the grain, which differs in many ways from the ordinary rice, it is treated to a very careful selection similar in many respects to that we bestow upon ,he choice of grapes.
 It is then put into water slightly heated and allowed to remain there for nearly a month perhaps longer. It depends on the quality of the grain. When it has reached the proper stage it is put over a slow fire and gently heated for a few days, at times coming just to a boil When at the right degree of pulpiness it is placed in large earthenware jars and ! allowed to ferment.
 During this process of Fermentation which may consume several weeks. cer- | tain fruits and buds are put into the must, all of which is a carefully guarded secret. If there is one thing the Chinese | understand it is when and how to blend | different ingredients to form a perfect | mixture. After this blending of the fruits and buds the fermentation is checked by racking the liquor into other vessels where it is allowed to ferment second | time. When this is over it is put into small jars stoppered with tightly drawn | skin | The liquor is now ready for sale. But not for use. Like our own wine it inn proves with age and owing to its great percentage of alcohol it will easily keep hundred years. Pleasant in taste, it is also very intoxicating and in conse- quence of this quality and of it's cost, which is high, it is served in small glasses.
 The Chinese treat the lees as we do. They produce in this way spirit closely allied to our grape brandy. except that | it contains more alcohol. As water en- ters largely into the making of this choo, show, sam-tchoo or sau-choo as it is where pure soft water can be procured l trade. One of the peculiar customs of the Chinese is the serving of all wines and spirits hot. If the guest be a for eigner. however, the drink is served to his liking
 Hundreds of different kinds of rice wine are made. It is only when it is sold by 6 vender or a saloon that a revenue IS | collected Many of these wines are so powerfully and wonderfully impregnated
 with some peculiar plant or plants that
 the opening of a bottle, even in the street. can be detected by person sev- eral yards away simply by the pleasant bouquet that is liberated. A remarkab ble fact about this perfume. if so it may be called. is that the bottle will retain the odor for months after the contents have been extracted.