Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-11-30
SELECTING THE
WINTER LINGERIE

Lingerie is important. It's make, it's
cut and its fit are all to be worked out
carefully: the gown that one wears may
be completely marred by ill-fashioned I'M
derwear beneath it. The majority of we'll
dressed and fastidious women understand
this, and they strive as well as their ex-
perience and their observation permit to
so wear their lingerie that 1t brings out
the best in their figures and permits their
gowns to fall in the most artistic lines;
yet there is an astonishing number of
women who buy lingerie garments with
out trying them on, to say nothing or
having them fitted. and then wonder why
their frocks pull at the waist line or flare
at the hem.
One general statement might be made
to state all the fashionable omissions in
lingerie: Nothing should be worn that has
any gathers or any flare.
Detail. however, may be more interesting
to the women who have not quite grasped
the importance of their subject in connec-
ton with the fit of their outer clothes and
the effect that poor underwear makes or
their figures.
Anything that is circular is out of fash
ion. Muslin petticoats that have ruffies,
either plain or ornamental, are not worn
Chemises must be as slim in their width
as gauze shirts. and cling to the figure,
and they should also be cut of at the
knees. Drawing strings are not alloWa-
BILE, and every part of the underwear that
goes over the waist line should be lifted
by cores or tucks or darts.
If ribbon is run through bead1ng at
the waist line 1t should not be tied in a
bow. back or front. and II the oid-1ash-
toned separate pieces are adnereo TO-
then the upper garment should De mn
ished with a tight-fitting band of beading
at the waist or above it, and the lower
garment should be put to yoke and fas.
tened with a hook and eye at least
inches below the waist line.
/, No fullness should be allowed at the
knees; the garments must be cut with
straight side seams as outer skirts are.
For this reason. that every one wears
skirts more or less tight, but all without
fullness, and If the underwear Is Wlder
than the outer garment at the knees 1t
bulges the skirt, throws it out of hang
and gives it a most ungraceful appear
ance.
The same is true of any fullness at the
hem The world has pretty generally &C
cepted the two-yard width measurement
of the outer skirt. and if there is ruff
fe wider than this attached TO the petti-
coat it only means that the skirt Is
strained and Is thrown out of its proper
tions.
in view in choosing lingerie is that one
must keep the figure as slim as possible
There will be no startling chanSe IN tnis
regard. There is no doubt In the minus
of those who are in the watch towers
that the figure will broaden as the months
go on: skirts will widen, fichus Will give
greater width to the shoulders, the waist
line will become lowered, but all these
things are not yet.
II ;s doubtful even with these things
taken in view that the silhouette OF the
figure will change much during the COM
ing year We may not look as tupe-hke
and as attenuated as we nave IN the past
u-iI1 no
determination to destroy all tendency to
fare or bulge. 1t is strange that under
these conditions chen1Ses are worn more
than ever, but the majority OF biouses
and gowns are so thin that one does not
want to take the chance of showing a
knitted undervest.
The new chemises are curved in at the
waist, cut ex eedingly narrow down to
the knees and very low back and front.
The ton part of them is usually OF lace or
very thin embro derry. and the shoulder
strains are mere threads that will not in
terfere with the fit of the all-in-one bod
Ice.
nnderskirt because it is more apt to re-
main down and not wrinkle from tn edge
Of the corset, and because 1t can be made
SO much longer than an underskirt 1t Is
more convenient to- go under the corset
computations of all kinds are the most
important step forward In lingerie that
has been made in petticoats. and 1t would
be pity II any whirl OF the weather
yane Of style would put them out oil
usage.
No matter whether one returns to the
small waist and large hips. or whether
one he ONES careless of the outlines Of
the figure. the combination suit in all it,
various forms is the most sensible ont
| to wear No one wants an untidy wais
| line. and yet this cannot be avoided wher
| drawing strings and separate bloases arr
| worn.
Combinations also prevent corset from
| waist line and give comfortable feelins
/ that one is trigiy put together. The littl,
| circular lower garment in whatever shap'
| 1t may be cut is more correctly suited 4
| the figure when it is attached to the cor
set cover. The latter Is held down ant
the former Is held up, and the two ar.
held to place by the belt Of beading whicl
is hooked In front