New-York tribune., 1911-03-05
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Freedom Without Being sational.
o''"'or Thew Seem Sure of Public Favor

teral is required I'm the making OF the
modern gown. for steadily the cost Of the
material increases. Exquisite crepes. bro
csded in bright colors on a white ground
serve as tunios hung over underskirts COM
posed Of lace hounces. Lovely was a crepe
or soft cerlse. having wide border
stamped with medieval figures landscapes.
vases. birds and beasts of the same de-
licious shade on a white ground Turned
into gown, it needed and had no adorn-
ment save an unlined guimpe of white
mousselne de sole. with wide revers and
deep, rpturning cuffs of the same material.
finished with an inch-wide hemstitched
border. And Of quite conspicuous beauty
was gown of fine white japanese crepe,
printed with a border OF pale Persian colors
above band Of coarse, string colored flet
lace laid in turn over band of black
satin that extended an inch below the lace.
This black note which was of great value.
vas continued In the corsage, narrow
line Of black outlining a deep round yoke
os the lovely Persian colors, and I'm wide
belt. broken a each side by the introduc-
tion of the border.
In Papa" the last new play at the
Gymnase. Mile. Yvcnne de Bray wears
Leautiful gowns that in spite of all the
riot Of color prevailing among the latest
fashions. show also the love for simple
lines EnaCting the role of young girl,
all her gowns have an enchanting air OF
youth. The first is of simple blue linen,
its loose blouse Corsage trimmed with
wide sailor collar of white linen and but
| tons OF white pearl. Equally simple in out
! line is the tailored costume Of the second
act and perfectly expressing the spirit or
youth is the third gown; OF soft white
mousseiine de sole, IL falls in exquisite lines
| from the round waist TO the top of the feet.
| A tcider Of fine tucks. inclosed in en-
broidery. trims 1t near the hem and edges
the short open sleeves. 4 wide fchu softly
enfolds the shoulders. lightly crossing In
| front under a big bow. With this gown
she wears an exquisite hat; broad brimmed,
il Is trimmed with masses Of roses in dun
torres of old rose. and tied by wide Natter
blue ribbon. which. brought forward from
the back. falls In long ends over the front
Of the skirt.
! The daring combination Of colors in many
OF the new gowns is repeated in the hats.
Indeed. the hats are. If possible, more dar-
/ ing. 1t is not at all unusual to see in one
I
morning hat Of striped black and white
straw had its brm turned up with bright
green straw. while a bunch of shaded red
roses trimmed II: and there are minglings
of blue and green and blue and red III
coarsely woven straw, which are really
barbaric when trimmed with spiky feathers
and long quils.
Beads silk and woollen embToideries ana
great wooden cabochons are used 20 an
extent never before contemplated In the
field of millinery. Wide borders OF them
are woven in the straw Of wide brimmed
hats. and they edge wings and long quills,
fashioned OF unlined black mousseline de
sole. A prettier fancy I'm millinery is the
outlining OF ribbon bands. loops and bows
with tiny silk roses in delicate shades of
pink and blue. Ribbon is decidedly 10 the
| fore. not only for the fashioning OF art-
fetal feathers and quills. but for winding
/ hands and tall, standing loops used in the
adornment OF morning and travelling hats.
The new straw braids, eXquisitely soft, are
themselves turned into bows and loops IN
place of ribbon. Quite uncrusnable this
trimming is exceedingly practical for or
dinary wear.
| For children till their entrance into their