New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-14


one of the most exclusive Of the new
.,vles is the use OF plain white linen iroheu
into an exquisite glossiness with SILKS
caves. velvets and fine woollen materials
These combinations produce beautiful Ell
,ec,s but such costumes must oe eN-
,reneIv hard TO keep in order on account
~ the tendency Of the linen TO Wrinkle
easily. The mode therefore. Is not one
for the many.
ono ~ these gowns recently sent here
from, a great house had foundation OF
linen cut into a tiny round at the throat
with short. loose chemise sleeves, Whlie
the skirt ripping into a comfortable iul-
ness. trailed slightly all around. over TINS
odd garment. which in this form could
suggest only toilet Of the most
..intime" character. was hung low
necked. short -seeved Overdress OF Whlte
sauze. striped inch-wide with blue satin and
belted high with wrinkling blue satin' while
,inv ouillngs OF blue satin edged the neck
and sleeves. The plain white linen of the
undersleeves and upper corsage was sim
ply hemmed with a line Of jour WORK.
! gown made entirely OF linen had its
short skirt hemmed twelve inches deep
with black and velvet. The blouse corsage
was narrowly belted with black, and there
was n fat round collar of velvet with wide
upturned cuffs Of velvet on the small half
long sleeves over the gown, turning II
into a street costume. was worn a half
long. loose fitting coat of white English
embroidery. done in an extremely open
design. knot of black velvet held the
round lingerie collar at the throat and be-
low the coat fell wide open. The short.
loose sleeves were finished with lingerie
frils
Two hats were sent home with this
charming summer toilet. one, big
Louis XVI affair. of pale pink straw,
arched above the forehead and dropped its
wide brim on the sides. lower on one side
than on the other. Great pink roses,
crushed close together about the crown
and rising high into a thick spray slanting
toward the back. trimmed II, and there
were long brides" Of wide black velvet
ribbon 20 tie loosely under the ends. falling
over the shoulder at one side The second
hat, o. fine white straw. dropped its Wat
teau blim low over the face; at the back it
tipped high above short. thick loops OF
SAKE blue ribbon. and narrow wreath Of
tiny blue and palest pink flowers circled the
low crown.
Chapelier hats Of manila or loosely
braided straw, trimmed with pleated cock
AIDES Of black velvet ribbon, with a colorod
reversible side and enormous plaques OF
black velvet ribbon or black satin. are
popular for morning wear. Little Breton
hats are comfortable for travelling. trimmed
only with a smart bow of uncrushable rib
bon. The hats themselves are of straw so
fine and soft they suffer no damage while
a nap is taken. Brushed and shaken into
shape the ribbon bows picked out, the hat
is as good as new, surely an invaluable
quality.
White blouses and chemisettes have re-
turned 70 favor with a rush. Indeed, II
cannot be said they were ever laid entirely
aside with tailored costumes; but, with the
revival Of white street costumes. they ap-
pear in great variety Of lace, embroidery
and the finest OF pin tucking. in combina-
ton with lace and embroidery. With col
ored tailored costumes smart women love
10 show a touch of color in their blouse
and rabat fris. This may be added by
means OF embroidery or with narrow, bias,
stitched bands OF pale cOlored oauste.
Batiste and linen, striped. inch-wide. with
pink or blue make adorable blouses. NO
ornamentation is attempted. except In
different disposition of the stripes IN
shoulder straps on the stud band and In the
finish of the sleeves. For the first time In