Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-11-09
NEW FASHIONS OF
MOURNING MATERIALS

Mourning materials are as fine as those
with color Supple fabrics are almost en-
! tirely employed for bodice gowns. these
showing up superbly in the draped waists
and tunic skirts so greatly admired and
going well with the new fringes No
species Of patterned lace is allowed for
waist trimming, but this restriction Is
more than made up by the most extrava-
CANT use of English Grape. This trim
ming appears in folds, revers. flower ro-
settles and bound frills, which last are put
with most graceful effect at the edges OF
deep collars. If the fine gown is for IN
door wear 1t may show vest, gulmpe
and unders eeves Of white Grape or null
or lawn. The white touch on the mourn
ing bodice is a marked feature OF the day
For the dressier frock bengaline with
round or fiat cord is to have a great
vogue and this graceful! texture VIII De
largely trimmed with the wide and mar
row fringes now to the fore. Silk cash
mere of indescribahle softness, yelling,
maruuisette and chiffon and chiffon cloth
will be other dressy fabrics.
For first street suits makers are putting
forth a new bombazinf /. this showing a
very tight weave and al faint sheen: Inc
simpler of these gowns Will only De
stitched wearers making up for the plain
ness with smart hats. duI bead cnalns
and handsome handbags. The others Will
have Grape collars and GUNS or oecklnss
Of dull guipure and silk. For practical
wear. dull serges, plain and vailed, are
| likely to have a good run, and as tnese
permit the use Of Very cheap WOOL ordiGs,
such dresses may be smart and at the
same time fairly inexpensive. a cioth
suit always Involves good deal OF ex-
pense, and never were mourning clothes
more rich and costly than now. A new
one Of French manufacture has a satin
under surface This falls with the SHIN
mering grace Of chiffon. yet at the same
time the elegant fabric Is stout enough
for the primmest tailored lines
Countless are the trimmings used Tor
black but sometimes fiat is adm red Tor
the trotting suit unless the wearer is
very young slim and exceedingly chic IN
her dress. She may wear black mousse
line collars and deep cuffs with fr.lled or
plated edges, big buttons made OF corded
piping rolled round, the side Jabot. etc.
! Other coat trimm ngs display TO a great
| extent the big dire toire revers or the
usual mannish collar and sleeve finish,
| while the majority of the buttons Will be
| in the form of molds covered with the
| dress stuff.
Beaded trimmings only appear in the
! street when the gown is of very Gressy
| sort and in material dainty enough TO
permit their use; then they are seen on
| collars and cuffs and sometimes In Inn
| tied bit of skirt banding All the beads
| for black as well as the prescribed dress
| fixtures are Of the lusterless sort. al
| though occasionally a French gown Tor
house use Will show sheeny surface ano
| shining fringes on guipures. Gutpurss, by
| the way, although a form OF lace. are
much used for the smarter black gown
| both for street and house, and there is
no objection to their being OF a very
| elaborate sort.
For TX. yelling. bengaline and similar
| light fabrics narrow-shaped frills. bound
| at the alloped edges. are threa ening a
| popular vogue for one-piece frocks. the
| bound ruffies going on the skirt and the
edpes of deem collars and cuffs. The ONT
| should be remembered by the home dress
maker, for such deckings are easy to
make and they can always be used when
| a more elaborate trimming cannot be af-
forded.
Bengaline may trim cloth suit, otto
man silk trim serge. and when a finer
| trimming is out OF the question plain tat
| feta can be used on anything. Apropos
| Of taffeta, there are some novelty weaves
| in ii with diamonds spo:s and splashes.
| All of which are feasible and which look
extremely pretty as trimmings for plain
yelling or cashmere.