New-York tribune., 1911-04-23

A Narrative of Exploration and Noun
taineering on the Northern Frontier OF
India. BY William Hunter Workman
VI. A., NJ. D., and Fanny Bullock Work
man. With an appendix by Count Dr.
Cesare Calciau and DR.. Matthias kon-
cZa. Two maps and 1l3 illustrations.
Svo. PIP. xvi, 297 Imported by charles
Scribner's Sons.
DR.. and Mrs. Workman's feats OF
climbing in the Himalayas are sufii-
ciently well known to justify the as
sumption that a detailed survey of them
here would be a work of supererogation.
Mrs. Workman. especially, has won
fame with her first ascents. which nave
given her world record for noun
taineering.
This American couple began exploring
the mighty Asiatic mountain ranges in
1898. since which year they have placed
TO their credit no fewer than five eXpedl-
tions. the narratives of which may be
found in their earlier books. The Hispar
glacier border regions were included IN
three of their earlier expeditions, and IN
1906 they had decided that their work
and sport in the Himalayas was ended
But no:
We had breathed the atmosphere of that
great mountain world, had drunk OF the
swirling waters of its glaciers ana teasted
our ewes on the incompatible beauty ana
ma aiesty of its towering peaks. ana aS uihe
passed on its charms asserted their power
anew and called 10 MS with rreSlSuDle
siren strains to return yet once again 10
those regions. the grandeur Of which sat,
isfies so fully the sense Of the beautiful ana
sublime.
on their former expeditions the couple
had advanced to the Hispar Pass and
scaled three coils in its vicinity but had
not been prepared to go further. Thls
time-in 19OS-thev decided to explore
the glacier itself and its large, as yet un-
visited. tributaries. rounding out their
work with observations Of the region L"
the south Of il. Sir Martin Conway mad
made a rapid ascent of the Hlspar
glacier and sketched the salient points
of its main stream with the plane table
but had not visited its branches. Dr.
and Mrs Workman give us in TINS book
an account Of their exploration of these
branches and Of their ascents for pur-
noses Of observation. The results OF their
survey are technically given at the end
of the book by the two surveyors, Count
Calciati and DR.. koncza, who accom-
panied them for the purpose. Through
ont there are references to the obserVa-
tons. routes and camps of Conway,
Younghusband and other mountainecrs
as they were elaborated, crossed and
passeo.
The narrative is one of work and hard
ship. rather than Of sport. The poetry
and grandeur of the call of the Hima-
layas are found more potent in the mag
nificent illustrations. many of them
taken with the telephotograph. rather
than in the text, though that does not
fail IT, make its appeal to the adventur-
Gus in its account of difficulties and dan
gers overcome, of hardships endured and
obstacles conquered. Such passages as
the following are rare:
Dawn is beautiful in the plains when
heralded by the swish and twitter of in
Vulnerable songbirds, loveler still at the
bases of the hills when shafts of dark
violet flare up the spurs turning 10 pale
mauve and pink as they dart upward INTO
the advancing light; most beautiful OF all,
higher yet above the abodes or man: pc
yond even the voice of the hieh lying
chough where. as the curtain of darkness
which has held the upper world in It's
inky grip is uplifted. glaciers aretes and
peaks, hitherto unseen. are reVealeu'
spreading out on all sides In the CAIN
simple magnifcencc Of ante-sunrise llght-
ing
The view from Biafo Hispar Water
shed Peak, q 800 feet high, is the most
comprehensive and beautiful Mrs. Work
man has seen in the course Of her many
Himalayan ascents. This pyramid stands
alone, with no near. higher peak to mar
the view over glacier and snow wall and
slopes to the giant mountains beyond.
The heads of the expedition were ac
companied again by Cyprien Savoye, the.
Italian guide on two of their earlier vent
u-es, and three Of their old poriors. Mr..
A. Hogg, OF Srinagar, completed the roll
of members Of the white race. The
sportsmanlike assistance given by Brit
sh officers and civil servants TO all ex-
plorers. mountaineers and sportsmen in
India is gratefully acknowledged by the
authors, who add yet another to the bit
ter complaints of the coolies, whose SER
vices, bad and unrclia BILE as they are,
cannot be dispensed with or replaced by
carriers of better class. To their IN
dolence, dishonesty and occasional in
are added instances OF at
tempted extortion by village heads along
the route, but, as DR.. Workman told one
OF these, they were not tyros the Itai-
ian guide broke strike OF the coolies
with his ice axe. The reader Is told that
this method proved to DC startlingly ef-