The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1911-09-23

Or hotchpotch OF oil sorts Of fishes,
That Greenwich never could Guido;
Green herbs, rcd peppers, mussels. saf.
from, i
soles. onions. garlic. roach, and dace;
All these you cat at Terre's tavern,
In that one dish Of Bouillabaisso.
Indeed. q rich and savory stew 'tis;
And true philosophers, methinks,
Who love oil sorts Of natural beauties,
Should love good v~ictuals and good
drinks.
And Cordelior or Benedictine
Might. gladly, sure. his lot embrace,
Nor find O fast day too affecting
Which served him up q Bouillabaisse.
Under the head Of "A Symphony In
Gold." Elizabeth Pennel Robbins has
written an interesting chaptsr on this
same Bou!llabaisse. calling attention
to the fact that. after all. It q In Mar
settles that must seek the perfect
dish. Truly the same amiable writer
remarks In her chapter on 1.-THE Wiz
tue Of Gluttony" that It was in the
dark ages that man first began to look
on food a something fearful.
Like many others Of the modern
writer's on the subject, Mrs. Robbins
takes her tone from the brilliant Bril-
lat-Snvarin, whose book, ia physio-
logic du Govt, on Meditations de Cas-
tronomie Transcendante," is a verita-
BILE classic. +.
Anthelme Brillat-savarin, Judge Of
the court Of cessation. q member Of
the Legion Of Honor, and many liter
AIRY and scientific societies Of France,
fled to Switzerland and afterward to
this country during the reign OF ter
ror. While he was in the United
States he spent his time in New York
teaching French and music. It is said
that once while he was listening to
Jefferson. who was his guest, tell a
number Of Interesting anecdotes
about Washington and the war, he
enthusiastically suddenly became so
American paused. offended
Pardon me-" exclaimed Brillat-
Savarin, when he noticed that his
guest had observed his perturbation.
"but I was thinking how I should
dress my wild turkey"
OF his famous book one might say,
as Xillematn said Of the "Lettres
Persianes" Of Montebquiu, that 1t .ts
one Of the most profound of frivolous
books. 1t Is at once the guide, the
and the friend Of the true
gourmet. Most Of the book consists
of thirty chapters called "Medita-
the titles of which will give
some idea of the broad field that the
scholarly author covered.
First, The Senses; second, Taste;
third, Gastronomy and the good deeds
that the famous astronomers Of the
world have done and a suggestion for
an Academic Of Gastronomers; fourth,
The Appetities; fifth, Authorization In
General; sixth, Specialties in Food,
game. fish, etc.; seventh,
The Theory Of Frying; eighth, Thirst;
Beverages: tenth, Episode on
the End of the World; eleventh, Cor
mandizing,s particularly as REGARDS
Conjugal Happiness: twelfth, Gour-
mands by Predestination. Education,
ETC., thirteenth. Eprouvettes Gastron-
omiQues; fourteenth. Pleasures Of the
fifteenth. Hats in, Sporting;
Digestion; seventeenth. Re-
pose: eighteenth. Sleep; nineteenth.
Dreams; twentieth, Influence Of Diet
on Repose. Sleep and Dreams; TWEEN
Obesity; twenty-second. Pre-
ventive or Curative Treatment of
Obesity: twenty-third. Leanness;
twenty-fourth, Fats: twenty-ffth, Ex-
twenty-sixth, Death; TWEEN
t%y-seventh, Philosophical History Of
the Kitchen; twenty-eighth. Restaur-
ateurs; twenty-ninth. Classical Cas-
thirtieth, Gastronomic N.Y.
thology."
Those who stuff themselves and
those who get drunk neither know
how to eat or drink" is something
that will be quoted to those who mis-
the purposes Of the gas
tronme. 1t needs no keen observer
to know that those who suffer from
the grossest Of vices, "overfeeding,"
are those who are generally indiffer-
ent to the delicacies OF the art OF
cooking and rush from the extreme
of willing starvation to what can
only be described as Hungryman's
attack On all sorts of food. the nature
and value of which has never before
given them any concern.
Little interest attaches today to the
WOrk4 Oh OaIeL1e, a!tHOu6u III uI6 uaJ
he was famous, both as an author
and as a cook. While he was chef for
Tallyrand, the emperors Of Austria
and Russia. and Rothschild, he wrote
many books, among them being LA
Maitre d'hotel francais On Parallele
de ln cuise ancienne ct m%oderne," his
most famous work. and lie Patissier
pictoresque;" but It is to Lady Morgan
intimate with his art.
schild's villa when Careme was then
chief cook.
ITO do Justice to tho science and
research of a dinner SO served would
only require a knowledge Of the art
character, however. was that It was