The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1911-06-22
History Of The
 ToothSome But
 Simple Sandwich
(London Globe.)


 History dates the sandwich from 175S In that year the Earl of Sand wtch-notorious as Jeremy Twitcher'' -rebelled once and for all against the tyranny of meal times, whereby each day the hours of gambling were cur tailed. Therefore, calling to the wal ter-who, having announced dinner, hovered uneasily round the table-the Earl ordered that pieces of meat should be laid between two slices of bread and brought to him as he sat at playl This was done and the sandwich was born. History does not relate wheth- CT the Earl's companions were suffi- ciently devoted gamblers to acquiesce without demur in the curtailing of their meals but great must have been the relief of cook and waiter when this simple substitute for a meal of many courses was adopted.
 Recent investigation, however. has somewhat detracted from Jeremy Twitcher's fame as the inventor of sandwiches. Without doubt he rein troduced and christened the sandwich, but the Romans-those specialists in gastronomy-ar credited with its in- vention; sandwiches, under the name of offula, being a favorite food in Ro- l man days Possibly, indeed, the sand wich was introduced into Britain by Roman conquerors, together with the snail, but, like the snail. it found lit tie favor with the Saxons, or, later, with the Normans, whose tastes in- clined to fare of a more robust na- ture. Therefore, during many centur- ies, the sandwich lay dormant, to be resurrected and renamed by the fertile brain of Jeremy Twftcher.
 Soon these slices of bread and meat became extremely fashionable, espec- ially among gamesters whose vaga- ries in the matter of meal time now ceased to embarrass the proprietors of the coffee houses which they frequent ed. Sandwiches took the place of more elaborate meals; they were passed at stated intervals, and, clasp ing a sandwich in one hand dice or cards, as the case might be, in the other, the eager gambler continued his play.
 From the time of George III onward sandwiches have played no inconsid- erab1e part in gastronomic history. Year by year their ranks have been enlarged fresh combinations have been discovered, until at the present day the number of sandwiches is le- zion. They vary from the ungainly articles which laborers carry with them in red handkerchiefs to artistic morsels in favor at afternoon teas cut into magic squares or circles and decorated with fragments of parsley. The former sandwich is composed of two great hunks of bread. with ba- con Or cheese between them; the lat ter-thin almost to transparency-is lightly f1ecked with potted meat, or cu- cumber cut into wafer-like fragments both. however, owe their existence to the inventive Earl of Sandwich.
 Various countries in England have their especial brand of sandwiches. In md ,iror Iod gether; in others the customary slices of bread are supplanted by slices of parkin. Devonshire perhaps can boast the most luscious sandwich of all English counties. To make Devon sandwich "split'' or scone is cut in half, each side is buttered then jam is spread upon the butter, upon that again a thick coating of marmalade. Finally, clotten cream is added with equal liberality, and the split, thus swollen beyond recognition, is ready for consumption.
 At the opposite end of the pole from this almost too liberally filled Devon sandwich is the railway sandwich. Thin and dry, it's ends slightly curl ed this sandwich reposes beneath round glass cover at the buffet of ev- cry railway station-a relic, prehis- toric: it is composed of two pieces of bread, board-like in their hardness,
 
 portions of ham, and liberal allow ance of mustard-this latter ingredi- ent is inexpensive, but lends an aris tocratic flavor to the sandwich.
 The epicure, when directing the mak- ing of his sandwich, sees to it that all the contents are finely minced or cut up, for thus only can the sandwich be eaten in perfection. Chicken, fine ly shredded is a favorite ingredient one sandwich lover, while eating in France was regaled day after day with sandwiches of peculiar delicacy; the youngest and most tender chickens he thought must assuredly have been used in their manufacture. One day, however, the sandwiches were less de- sirable-in fact, distinctly tough-and the Englishman remonstrated. The hotel keeper was desolated-a thous- and apologies-monsieur must positive ly excuse the frogs. These imbeciles caught with their customary docility, but had leaped about the cage with such unseeming agility that assuredly the muscles of their legs must have hardened beyond all expectation.
 In England one county still resists the encroachments of the sandwich Cornwall will have none of it. There the pastry reigns supreme-tf1at de- lectable compounds of meat, onion. and potato. enclosed in a semi-circle of rich brown crust. Pilots. fishermen, farm laborers, and school children. one and all carry their pasties; these range in size from comparatively minute semi-circle priced in confectioners' shops at two pence to gigantic com binations of meat and crust that no or dinary dish can hold. Even the tramp in Cornwall, scorns travellers diet' of bread and cheese: he, too, seated by the roadside on a heap of stones will be observed to draw from some recess in his tattered coat substan- tial pasty.
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