Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1911-02-23
A NEW SHINY LEATHER.
Said to Re as Bright ms the Patent
and Il Wear BETTER.

The past twenty-five or thirty years
have seen wonderful changes not only in
tho matter OF working leather but also
In its tannage and finish. Especially Is
this true IN the case OF patent leather.
Up to about ten years ago there was
nothing in the market but the old fash-
ioed bark tan, with o. heavy finish on
the flesh side. which was very uncer-
tain in It's wearing qualities. with the
Introduction OF chrome tanned patent
leather. which was so much softer than
the bark tanned, tho latter was driven
almost entirely out Of the market. From
Germany, where we get our supplies OF
patent calf the exports have almost en-
,irely ceased. tho chrome tanned leather
wholly taking It's place.
because Of the continued calls from tho
shoe manufacturer and retailer for
leather that would stand up IN the shoe
| and look smooth. there has been the
tendency to get away from the orizina
soft. mellow tannage which has made
chrome tanned leather almost az firm
az the old bark tanned leather, although
the weartng qualities are very much
better
With the great advantages that tho
| chrome tanuagc Of patent leather has
over the bark tanned leather. there arc
still many very serious defects In e.
The first Is th4 difficulty In getting IT
through the shoe factories without check
ing and cracking The next Is the trou-
bic the retailer has had in unsetisfa tory
wear from checking and the finish peel
ing and powdering In the creases OF the
! shoes. In the winter Tine T. almost with
out exception checks badly, which causes
a great deal OF dissatisfaction with the
| wearer who has made many rnreason-
able demands on the retailer for new
shoes when there was absolutely no good
ground for It.
II is impossible 10 got "A Vanished
leather that will ne Flexible under all
conditions because the baking necessary
70 drI II harde's II. and when the leath-
er is stretched above & certain point the
! finish is bound TO crack and when the
cold strikes 1t It is sure to check and
crack badly The nest patent leather
that has ever been made will give more
or less trouble at times. going through
the factory. and still more trouble fr
wearing.
Another great difficulty met with ir
the manufacture OF patent leather IS th'
fact that Il Is Impossible to get all aoso-
lutely uniform finish The hides or skins
vary great deal in he fnenesa or rms
grain. Il fine grained skin requiring very
much less material tlG,n the coarse grain
The workmen not Knowing about this
or In many cases not caring. often pu
a great deal more on the fine grained
skins than T. neccssary and frequently
much less on the coarse grained one'
than they require. and IN NarmShlh'
they do the same thing
II Is now said that new process ha'
been invented which will overcome thes'
objections by getting rid of the three
processes, vanishing. baking and sun
ming Leather made this way IS said Il
he as soft as kid bright as patent lea
Their and will hold it's finish much long
er and better
. The grain is flexible and strong because
II has not been baked, and It has all IN
natural strength and fibre that any IN
finishing leather would nave, consequent
Is adding n great deal to IT'S wearing
qualities In the soverest tests that
could possibly he put to In shoe FACTOR
les In wearing ard IN cold tests. II ha-
in every instance come out without
check or d crack under any conditions
This leather can he made IN black ant
! In colors az vol Tre Advantage In maF
, ing coIored shoes Of this finish Is tina
II requires no sp"cia care m Eo'ni
through the factory. for II they ar
soiled In making they can he cieant'
as easily as patent leather, the shoes O
not change In color In wearing. hnd
is more easily cleaned than N" ordinar
colored leather
| While this is a bright leather = hriEh