Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1911-12-28
SOUND ENGLISH DISH.
Nothing Better, It Is Said, Than
Marrow Bone Well Cooked.
From the Boston Herald.

From the Boston Herald
Does any one eat marrow bones in
Boston? Mr.. Frank Schloessner, who
writes entertaining articles about
cookery for the Pail Mall Gazette. has
recently considered the marrow bone.
He commends this old-fashioned sort
of a dinner: Scotch broth. grilled sole.
steak and oysters, marrow bone. pan
cakes. Any waiter in one of the ten
frst-class restaurants OF London
would stare at the order Mr.. Schloes-
ser thinks 1T pity that this straight
forward, downright, up-to-name sort
Of a good sound English cookery
should be neglected in favor Of 'souffe
decrivisses a Ia misericOrde' and SUCH
like hopeless misrepresentation or the
culinary art" He admits that 1t is
not easy to find the marrow bones, a
pillar Of British cookery, at more
than one reputable old English din
ing place.
He prefers the marrow bone In the
"silversioe" of the round of beef, ana
in cold weather the marrow from the
stock shin" And this is the way he
would cook it: Make a paste plug of
flour and water about half an inch IN
thickness, and Herewith plug up each
end Of the bone. Tie the bone in a
pudding cloth and put it into absolute
/
quarters of an hour, according to the
size Of the bone; then remove the
plugs and serve on a very hot dish
with pieces Of we'll done toast. He
quotes from DR.. Venner's Via Recta':
Marrow is much more laudable than
the braine, for it is sweeter and
pleasanter, Of a firmer substance, and
Of an hot and moist temperature; 1T
maketh much good and pure nurish-
ment, and excellently sustaineth and
q nj CT
Mr.. Schloesser might have quoted
from the time Of Chaucer to the pres
emit: how Morton in 1882 praised the
bass of the New England Canaan ~
excel the marybones OF beef" and
from Tucker who declared that there
is no reason why the sight of a human
skull and bones in charnel house
should shock us more than the sight
Of a calves head or pair or marrow
bones in dish"
Marrow and marrow bones have
passed into slang. The latter is used
as meaning fists as weapons. also
pugilists. Marrow bones meaning
nearly four centuries. a singular
meaning of marrow is partner, an
equal; in old Scots, a lover or spouse.
and among GOLFERS mate. Gloves
that did not match were described as
mot marrows." In dialect, the mar
row truth is the simple or very truth.
Marrowless may mean Incompatible.
or solitary, and the verb, Ito marrow"
to join. mate or to lend men or horses
for labor to a neighbor and to receive
a similar loan in return when needed.
Mr.. Schloesser does quote this re-
cipe from the Rt. Hon. Lady Liam
overs Good Cookery illustrator:
ITO make a dish of marrow--Take the
marrow OF two or three marrow bones.
cut it into pieces like great square
dice. and put 1t into a penny manchet.
grated fine, some slic't dates. half a
Quartern of currans, a little cream
roasted .wardens, pippins or ounces.
slic't, and two or three yolks of raw
eggs, season them with cinnamon
ginger and sugar and mingle all to-
gether."
A manchet is here a small loaf or
roll Of the finest wheat bread. thicker
in the middle than at the ends. War
den was a kind of cooking pear. Rob-
ert Sherwood in his English and
French Dictionary" G672) gave as the
French equivalent 'poire de garde,
and Congrave, translating the French
into English. wrote: "a warden or
winter pear. a pear which may be
kept very long" The Clown in THE
winters Tale" declares he must have
saffron to color the warden pies.