New-York tribune., 1911-04-02

Paris, March %.
The day Of the opening of the Auteuil
rac.ng season it was pleasing TO note the
variety OF tailored costumes worn by the
smartest women there. The appropriate
ness and the chic Of these costumes on
such occasions mark a contrast 10 the
utter incongruity OF the toilets that have
been in vogue during the last few months.
toilets of thin. soft materials. quite un-
united 10 t-of door wear. and in all cases
covered by the long coat or garment Of
black satin that had become sort of uni
FORM so generally was 1t worn. SILK is the
favorite material for these costumes. and
this agreeable fabric. agreeable 10 the
touch and eye and agreeable in it's dust
shedding and wearing qualities. is offered
in the greatest variety OF weave. There IS
foulard with it's closely woven surface
resembling cloth. and in charming tones or
color. surahs woven with a coarse vale
and firm Of texture: the oldfashoned
faYe silks and a pretty basket weave.
Motrs silk. in white. black and dark blue.
is seen 10 a limited extent. this being
silk that never reaches popularity, AND
satin. while a favorite. has the drawback
q, seeming too dressy for ordinary wear
Hsndsomest Of all is a new heavy corded
silk so elegant in itself that only little
trimming is needed with II.
Al the Riviera tailored costumes OF thls
charming silk in pure white oyster ana
nearl white are worn with no trimming
except a few buttons and thick SILK COW
cred cord as an edging to the collar, Guns
and revers. The thick. soft texture of this
corded silk lends itself admirably 10 per-
faction Of cut in the coat and of hang
IN the skirt. Ii IS particularly desirable
IN black in costumes for elderly women. A
coat of il in three-Quarter length may
equally well be worn with matching
skirt or with one of satin. crepe or fine
cloth IL was particularly chic in coat
made with a suggestion of the Directoire
models-a bit Of fulness in the back above
a high half belt. the fronts arranged 10
hang quite straight and in loose lines from
the one-button closing just below the bust
line To give a more jaunty air the fronts
were cut 10 slope sharply back 10 mar
row tail-shaped finish. while the neck fin
ish held the .cou of smartness with It's
wide. fat collar. sharply pointed revers
and wide haring Directoire cuffs on sleeves
OF three-quarter length.
For woOllen tailored costumes white
camels hair is the preferred material
Later II is expected that great quantities
Of etamine Will be used in weaves more
or less transparent and with or without
lining And there are adorable finely
checked and striped wools sweetly trimmed
with pipings OF the brightly colored silk
lining The lining itself turns back into
-evers and a wide. fiat collar. and there are
large. fat buttons covered with IL and en-
broidered in the color of the stripping line
IN the material. The skirt of a costume
If this sort recently finished had the Tapped
seams on either side marked by a line Of
buttons covered with red silk and trimmed
with the material They buttoned into real
holes 10 within five or six inches of the
hem, below which they were left unbut-
toned. the opening being faced with red,
which rlnted into view with every move
ment.
a white woollen costume with fine. far
apart lines Of bright green was effectively
trimmed with two narrow bands Of green
silk circling the skirt across the front and
hack breadth; on the side they ended six
inches apart under large. fat buttons. The