New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1911-05-21
Paris, May 10, l9l

.od.s this season are particularly
lns ,n their simplicity of line and their
p'',x Of color. The eccentricities OF
n''1 that have been so prominent In
so"n,,c places during the last two or
~ Lessons seem quite eliminated and
20, attention is given TO grace of line.
are or two OF the great designers
We" ..,ain their liking for the strange
~" shares and medley Of colors they
o' ,opular with a popularity that proved
h nndoing with exclusive women. the
ne .,v ~ the influential houses are send
~.. their patrons gowns with their main
M taken from the modes Of the last
.srnd-ed years. Skirts softly flowing.
w s-v length preferred. For indoor
,s.v are all more or less long, and
,r,,ns are much en- evidence, allow
gracious carriage and walk as diff
ms .s POSSIBLE from the skip and hobble
"a unhappily become accustomed 10.
~, line IS In its natural place. and
, &c no extravaganza in the form Of
-. The mandarin sleeve. though still
has fallen from fashionable favor.
.s nrevan TO an unprecedented ex-
.,d are used in every manner in whole
-. and garments. as trimmings and as
.,ss 10 tailored coats. Black and white
.,ncb used for tailored costumes. par
''..,.,av in white wool barred of in inch
.,.,.s with a black line. Uniformly these
.s.,rnes have facings of plain color. or
49,, an6 white The last word. however
.,lorsd wool or silk tailored costumes
-. facing Of fine striped or checked
.,,s and white silk. quite charming with
-. astonishing luxury in chemisette. jabots
80, rabats. Nothing Is too elegant 10 COM
..,. those adorable adjuncts to street
.,,une Even for morning wear the
..wsa ;abo, is lace edged and lace frilled.
-. snsrtest women. however. prefer for
-,-r,ns wear to have the plated jabot
,.us edged with a narrow line Of color
.,.h stitched edges For dressier wear. If
. -, ~ color is desired. il is achieved by
.,,o,.d hand embroidery. A sweet blouse
ads NJ finest handkerchief linen. with
,r,,srs OF quarter-inch wide and the tiniest
>, Mn tucking. had its wide jabot frin
,,s-odered in black and In tiny sharply
,1,,,ss ,callops. Little turnover cuffs Of
IA, linen were trimmed with narrow frils,
.sg.5 70 match. and the tucked choker had
itt. turnover finished i'm the same
manner.
Maine point d'esprit and other fine laces
avs preferred TO heavy laces As an orna-
msr,s,ion 10 linen jabots. yet one often
ssss a clever combination OF Irish lace and
. ,tr lace. such as Nalenciennes and those
-sntcned above A deep, round collar de-
srned 10 dress up a simply formed gown
a, dark blue foulard silk was Of pleated
reln, d'esprit. banded into a deep friI at
n. lover edge by Irish lace entredeux. Mar
r..r bands-two Of them-Circled above,
,,s the neck was finished with a little
,r.,,ed collar Of perfectly plain linen. sim
Dir hsmstitched al the edge Plain linen
Gifts 10 match turned up on 10 the three
garter long sleeves
A ruinpe made Of perfectly plain white
Een, closing in front with large buttons OF
.cw tinted pearl, and cuffs 70 match were
v-, home from a big house In the Place
vsnaome with a gown Of rose colortd
,ussor. The double skirts Of the gown
opened on the left side 10 show a narrow
panel OF white surah silk, striped horizon
,sly at rather wide distances with a half
irch wide black stripe. The irregularity of
TIE stripping gave IL distinction, quite mark
ing II from the common The short coat.
lined with pale rose colored China silk. had
vide pointed revers faced with the oddly
striped silk and the little fat collar. made
o. the tussor. with a corded edge, was
trimmed with MANY tiny buttons Of rose
tinted pearl.
The dull weather that prevailed on the
vernissage day Of each Of the great salons
called for tailored costumes. and It seemed
Is though the greater number were blue in
zone material or other. Individuality OF
accessories lent variety. but even here
s..pes seemed the favorite mode Of adorn-
rsnt. pleasant change was noted in
costume Of willow green corded silk,
trimmed with green and white checked SILK,
Instead o. the generally inevitable stripe.
!he costume was charmingly completed by
q, unde,skirt % plain white silk that
.ored only IN walking then the open
@ges OF the side breadths fell slightly
,'art revealing &.
costume o. soft black fa!lle silk. built