The San Juan islander. [volume] (Friday Harbor, Wash.) 1898-1914, 1910-11-18
MODES Of ohe MOMENT

IA Nessas6sA1h AAZA ll
There IS q nice moderation In the
nav tailored, coat and skirt suits this
season-nothing is extreme-and, al
though it seemed from the styies
shown during the in-between season
| that coats would be noticeably short
and skirts unpleasantly narrow. the
STYLES taken as whole show neither
of these eccentricities, but are just
| comfortable in-between. The mate
| rails are all soft and supple ana MOD
| erately light In weight.
Covert cloth in the familiar grayish
tan is. being used by some OF the
| houses for the severer type OF tailored
! suit and the new serge is very soft
| and heavy in quality, without trace
of crispness in texture. Ratine. the
| new beaver finished material. which
! has lust been introduced this season,
| is lovely and warm for winter tailored
suits, but it Is not likely that 1t Will
| be worn at home for this purpose as
much as on this side of the water, as
| it lacks the trim quality that Amer
lean women like in their tailored
street clothes. 1t will undoubtedly be
popular material for country and
| golf suits, as it is wonderfully well
adapted for this purpose.
AS lining material in satin wraps
| and coats for afternoon and evening
wear it is really lovely and takes the
place of an interlining and an over
lining of silk or satin, as 1t Is used
without any additional overlining. 1t
| is made in all the new colors. and
black and white.
Cancels Hair chevIot.
| Another charmingly soft material Is
a camels hair cheviot. This material
is quite unlike the old camel's hair
cheviot you may have In mind, with
out the loose long hairs. It Is almost
smooth, having feeling Of chamois
when the hand Is passed over the nap
of the material. The new colors are
exceedingly soft and low In tone, with
the probable exception of cerise and
bright greenish' blue, which IL used
for dressy afternoon and evening
gowns. although they are both col
ors which are more used for evening
cloths. and even then must be worn
with care by few people.
There Is lovely soft green, like the
green Of partially turning leaves, al
most gage green In color with tint
brown. Blue is much used in all ocl-
ors, the staple marine blue leading.
and new blue, called blue of the
night" Is in even more somber tone
than the marine blue, and is liked as
trimming with tones of lighter blue
Then there is very soft hight blue.
which Is almost green, with clear
water blue tone, much liked for after
noon gowns and tailored suits with
collars and cuffs Of silver opossum
light leather tones and darker to-
bacco brown.
In Tailored Suits.
One Of the best points about the
new fashions in tailored suits ID that
they are full Of ideas to use in fixing
over ones tailored suits from last sea-
son. In every instance the material
can be taken away; there is no neces-
sity for adding more of the same kind
Of material, which greatly simplifies
the work of alteration in clothes.
The majority Of the tailored coats
measure IL inches from the waistline.
This is. Of course. much shorter than
last years coats, so the shortening of
coat Is very easy to give it the new
lines. II your coat happens to be made
with pockets set rather low. cut the
coat directly on line with the lower
edge Of the pocket II the pockets
are small, use material from the bot
tom Of the coat and make long narrow
pockets, extending them around over
the underarm seam and making them
from Ave to seven inches in height.
Trim with bone buttons along the
upper edge In q straight line and
stitch q two-inch band OF the mate
rial along the upper edge Of the outer
side.
This will give your coat new look,
as the little pockets are quite out Of
fashion.
Then as to the back of your coat.
The newest models are quite plain IT.
ting without q trace Of fullness at the
lower portion Of the seams. It gives
a very snug, trim appearance to the
back OF the coat and Is really much
better than the open vents. which are
always turning UP at the corners.
When buttons are used they are plac-
ed high on the side back seams, at
about an even distance between the
underarm and the lower edge Of the
coat. which brings them at high
waistline. Many Of the coats have q
broad rolling collar Of fur. one piece
slightly narrowing toward the lower
edge.
sailor Collar Still Popular.
There Is no abatement in the use
Of the sailor collar shapes. which have
grown to cape-like proportions on
i