davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
"BRAINSTORM' PLEA.
Lieutenant Langh0rst's De
fence at Court Martial.

Baltimore. Jan. 25.-Insanity OF the
"brainstorm type" was the defence ad-
vanced on behalf of Lieutenant Adolph
Langhorst. of the coast artillery, who
was placed on trial before a court-mar-
tial at Fort McHenry to-day. He is
charged specifically with neglect of duty.
breach of arrest and disobedience Of or
ders.
Guilty without criminal intent" was
the plea he entered. This was followed
by a statement of his counsel to the ef
feet that Lieutenant Langhorst, although
perfectly sane at the present time. had
suffered one of the sudden fits of insan-
ity dubbed ''brainstorms'' at the Thaw
trial. and that he was suffering from
this kind of insanity at the time he COM
mitted the deeds complained of. There
fore, it was argued. he was not respon-
SibIe
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
sCHWAB HAS HOUSE TO GIVE.
It Is in Providence, and Cost 100000
to Build.
10y Telegraph to The Tribune. !

Providence, Jan. 25.-Charles NJ. Schwab.
who delivered an address here last evening.
said in an interview that he was looking
for some one to whom TO present the hand
some house which he owned IN this
CITY. Some months ago, when financial
difficulties overcame c. Clifford Ladd Just
as he was about 10 occupy mis- new nom.
ON the East Side, which cost 500 O0a IL
passed into Mr. Schwahs hands. The place
has remained closed ever since and Mr.
scnyab on the occasion OF ,his visit said
he did not intend to occupy or s-n it, but
expected to give it away II lie could find
the right sort Of bensficiarr
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
ACCUSES DIR. WILEY.
Pittsburg WOman Says AHen-
ist Has Her JezCeIs.
lBy Telegraph to The tribune.

Pittsburg. Jan. 25-It became known
publicly to-day that DR.. c. c. Wiley,
the we'll known Pittsburg alienist, was
arrested on January Is on a charge of
larceny brought by Miss Dora Pedder.
one of his patients. She alleged that DIR.
Wiley had in his possession jewels to the
amount Of 81 400 belonging to her
Dr. Wiley was released under 81 600
bail for "a hearing before Magistrate
Kirby tomorrow morning. He refuses
TO discuss the case.
Miss Pedder is the sister of a promi-
Dent political leader. DR. Wiley gained
renown as an alienist for Harry K.
Thaw at his New York trial. He also
organized methods of camp sanitation
during the Spanish-American War
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
GRIFFITH ELECTED SENATOR.
Plurality in Raines s Old District
Exceeds $500.

Rochester. Jan. 25.-The plurality OF Fred
erick W. Griffith, of Palmyra. Republican
candidate for the state Senate. TO succeed
the late John Raines, is given as $500. His
pluraiities by counties are: Wayne. 2.Eo;
Ontario. s6s; Yates. 62e The vote was light
The Democratic candidate was John Col
mey. of Canandaigua.
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
LIGHTNING BROUGHT FORTUNE.

Dalhart, Tex. Jan. 25.-Mrs. Josie Pettis
declared to-day that bolt of lightning
struck the ground on the mountainside near
her farmhouse recently and tapped spring
of crude oil. which is now producing POO
barrels daily. The land, before the un-
covering of the spring. had barely yielded
enough to support her
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
ANTI-FooT6ALL BILL ADVANCED
IBy Telegraph 10 The Tribune !

By Telegraph 20 The Tribune
Richmond, Va. Jan. 25.-The bill in the
Virginia House making football punishable
by fine and imprisonment was favorably
reported to-day.
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
RACED WITH SURF.
4Uiator NarrozcIy Escapes Fall
Into Sea.

San Diego. Cal, Jan. 25.-Charles X
Hamilton. in a flight with a Curtiss BIZ
plane to-day, had d narrow escape from
falling into the ocean. Although he won
In his race with the surf, he met with
an accident on land. striking a barbed
wire fence and damaging his machine.
The aviator was not hurt
Hamilton started out over the ocean
II was noticed that water was leaking
from the radiator when he ascended, and
a minute later the spectators saw him
circling low over the water. He turned
and with the wind at his back raced for
shore, and came down just over the surf
line
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26

San Francisco. Jan. 25.-Before fifteen
thousand persons Louis Paulhan. the
French aviator. made an eight-miIe
flight in stiff breeze at Tanforan to-
dav. He rose about four hundred feet,
being in the air twelve minutes.
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
PARIS FLOOD RISES
yO FAIL OF W4TERS
TMMEDIATELY.
army and Nary Forces Requi-
aitioned for Aid for Help
less Thousands.

Paris. Jan. 26.-The river authorities
carly this morning announced that the
seine would continue to- rise until
Thursday and viii exceed the high rec
ord Of lSg-
The Lyons Railroad Company sent out
notification that all service out of
Paris has been suspended.
The great bonded warehouses at Bercy
appesr 70 be doomed TO destruction in
voizing an immense loss The mer-
chants are hurriedly removing what they
can.
The Seine at Colombes threatens mo-
mentarily 10 mount the parapet and
food the populous working class suburb
cf Gennevilliers. six miles northwest of
The centre OF Paris. This place has a
population OF about 1000.
The military authorities have teIe-
graphed to the generals in the provinces
70 the points where the foods are most
severe
The Minister Of Marine has ordered
the authorities of the ports to dispatch
Hfcboats and crews TO Paris.
A steamboat pontoon broke from its
moorings at > o'clock this morning and
Vas swept against one of the arches of
the Pont de FAlna. completely obstruct-
ing the river at that point 1t probably
VIII have TO be blown up
The foods have brought disaster to A
large part Of France The ordinarily
modest and peaceful Seine is now rag
ing torrent and rising at the rate of
more than naf an inch an hour. As il
furiously rushes seaward ii sounds the
message Of increasing misery and de-
srrucIIon.
Official reports from the Seine-s afT1u-
ents yesterday afternoon that they were
beginning 10 fall have proved incorrect.
for they are rising steadily. and the Off
cial estimate last night is that the Seine
vii he a. least fifteen inches higher by
this afternoon.
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26

The announcement OF UnIorist
GAINS continued with unoroken re9u-
Iarity. Out of thirty three results de-
cIared during the course OF yesser-
day they had nine gains. OF wn'cn one
was in Scotland and one IN Ireland
AGAINST these the Liberals were anie
70 set only two gains in Scotland
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26

So easy aud delig9htlml, I'M spenser 81 Ger. roric
eyeglasses with 'nlklt suAiu9' 81 Aiaileh La
-Aayt
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26
UNIONISTS AGAIN
MAKE HEADWAY
Liberals TO CON
TROL. HOWEVER.
Moderate Men m Both Engt1sh
Parties Mag Work for
Com promise.

BRITISH ELECTIONS TO DATE
Five hundred and sixty members o.
the new Parliament have been elect
ed. They are distributed as follows:
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26

Continued on third page.
New-York tribune., 1910-01-26

Continued on third pags-
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
Negligees
HI HE tea gown has attained luxury
at which our great-grandmother
- would syasn IN smazemenf Ma

TN HE tea gown has attained luxury
at which our great-grandmothers
l. would gasp In amazement. Ma
terials used in the construction Of this
delightfully."- feminine garment are of the
richest. and priceless laces are en-
ployed to further emphasize the cost
and beaYSF
Liberty. net and mousseline de sole
in the delicate colors are most in favor.
Lace is thrown over silk. velvet in fat
knots 10 hold pleats in their proper
places. and ribbon and braid are used
with lavishness to decorate.
The princess shape always flowing. is
generally used. A tunic over drapery.
embroidered with silk and beads and
held loosely on the foundation by bands
Of silk. is an idea that is universally be-
coming.
Many Of the negligees have a hint of
the directoire. with crossed vests of bro
cades or beaded net.
Jackets of lace are used to outline the
form: pleated chiffon over and under
net is always irresistible
Tho kimonos have been relegated To
The background. giving place to the
short reoingote style. with long straight
sleeves, and trimmed with knots of lace
and ribbon.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
Two Hats or One :?

TTTHEN we go away on the long
wv looked-forward-t visit TO some
far-away friend. we want all
the trunk room We can squeeze for the
clothes We may or may not need, and
the question OF hats for proper occa-
sions becomes most Serious oBss The
softly draped turban OF maline or cloth
of-gold Is too rich in possibilities to be
left at home. but the large brimmed
garden hat is sure TO be necessity.
with summer In the distance. Why not
combine the two?
Make, OF have your milliner make for
you. the draped zaline turban. wreath
Ing 1t in tiny flowers Of your favorite
color. See that it fits the head comfort
ably and at a becoming angle. Then
have her make for you a wide curvinZ
or enveloping brim of white chantiIly
lace line with a shade to match the
flowers and with just skeleton crown
enough to hold the turban In place.
There, you have It! Two in one. One
In two. And room In the trunk besides.
The unique idea can be carried out IN
darker coloring and In straw and
nowered turban for crown II desired. IN
lact, It's possibilities are innumerable
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
A White Serge Suit

OF COURSE. 1t is perishable, but that
does not preclude the possibility of
~ its adaptation, for white serge is
the sturdy material that can with
stand admirably the wear of a visit
to the cleaners. There is a certain
niche that the white serge suit fills,
and wise is she who can plan to add
one to the wardrobe of the coming sea-
son.
In the first place, do not make the
mistake Of selecting a skirt too heavily
pleated, for the weight will be unbear-
able, but choose rather the pattern
which has the straight panel at the
front and the Introduction OF pleats at
the side.
On the Jacket, which. to be strictly up
TO date. must be hip length, the sugges-
ton of black is always excellent. A
narrow band of silk is effective when
outlining the cuffs or collar, and many
models are showing the use of heavy
silk braid and cord of white
If you decide upon revers, they must
be long. the first fastening at the waist
line. or just a little above
The sleeves have very little fulness,
and the buttons are extremely large.
Frequently a square, pointed or round
ed tab of the material is folded up over
the lower edge Of the jacket and again
on the sleeves. This an-be embroider-
ed, braided or plain. with buttonhole
and button.
And when lining this, select soft silk
with an allover design in cashmere
colors. 1t is the latest thing.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
Crossed Bands

DHERE is at present in Paris a
vogue for spiral effects and crossed
= bands, and especially does this idea
seem exemplified in afternoon and even
ing gowns.
Broad bands of guipure are used like
ribbon or II the nature of a sash.
while embroidery of breath-taking mag
nificence (and consequent expense) is
used on nearly all costumes that make
any pretense TO dressiness
There is no denying the fact that the
sashes used by some misguided dress
makers to tie in the fulness of the skirts
above the ankles. curtailing any grace
Iul, Easy movement and producing a
precariously small base for the stand
ing figure. have had their day. But
sashes and wide. ornamental bands can
be made 10 give graceful lines to the
figure and in no way impede a natural
iocomotion. Then ii is good news that
the great minds of the Partisan world of
fashion have been sufficiently impressed
with the idea to incorporate 1t in the
TONS
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13

that fills out the long opening between
the coat lapels.
Very wide lace is used on the model
at the right Of the figure. Indeed. the
expensive valenciennes. with its pretty
rose pattern. is sufficient beauty unto
the neckwear. and the style is elegant
ly simple. Tucked net forms the collar
and the two ends. Notice how the lace
Is placed to form a diamond shape OF
the valenciennes surrounding the open
square. When copying this model.
combine wide lace with net that corre-
spends to the mesh OF the upper part.
It remained for the clever French de-
signer to construct a jabot OF allover
lace. The American woman who ad-
mires. but must restrain her longings
for. the real lace. may resort to inita-
ton valenciennes IL the genuine quality
be not too apparently absent. The col
lar Is edged with a narrow frill OF va
lenciennes, and there is a pleasing vart-
ETY. In the round and the square tab.
each edged with lace about one inch in
width. When developed In dotted or
figured net and edged with narrow lace.
the idea Is equally attractive.
The last suggestion gives the home
dressmaker an excellent opportunity
to use the shorter ends OF laces that
might be picked up at the various
sales. Rows OF Irish lace beading are
combined with fine plain net to form
the collar and the pointed tabs.
which you will make separately. The
under straight piece Is of finely
tucked net, forming just the back
ground for the ornamental top.
From this sextet there can be
made departures that will reflect the
individuality of the wearer. but the
diversity of styles promises fitting
In of each jabot to the needs Of dif-
ferent women.
To the jabot there is given the op-
portunity OF raising the blouse and
suit to the crisp lacy plane of at
tractiveness which sounds the note
of Individual taste. BY the addition
of this very important adjunct the
entire aspect OF suit can be
changed. and even Paris is kind In
its suggestion that good taste and
cleyerness are more important in the
fashioning than expensive materials
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
Pleated Neckwear

T HERE is just at present rivalry
between the pleated collaretts
= that turns back from the round
neck and gives the delightful appear
ance and the dignifed 1abot Of the
Directory. that so well fills IN the space
between the long revers.
The pleated round shape Is. Of course.
an outgrowth OF the Dutch collar Of a
few seasons ago. II is decidedly femf-
nine. and is at its best when fashioned
Of the sheerest linen or net. Frequently
1t is edged with a narrow line OF black.
and some of the innovations are huge
squares or disks OF color. embroidered
with linen thread
1t Is the day of the collarless blouse
and the neckwear very naturally has
taken TO itself an importance which
you may rely upon the makers to duly
emphasize
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
Guinnpes

H UIMPES are now chosen of mate
rial of strange and lovely ef-
~ fects. No longer need the guimpe,
which, you viii remember, is quite shall
low. be Of cream lace. Metallic tissues
veiled with null, tulle of a flesh color.
steel nets incrusted with beads, cob
web gauzes and fancy grenadines form
the lacy relief at the neck and throat.
Many OF these have a fine tracery of
cclor, silver or gold, secured by a run
ming thread, frequently added on the
under surface of the mesh. There is a
conspicuous absence of tucks. and here
is the danger signal for the home dress
maker. The perfect fit of the guimpe
must be insisted upon. for the plain ex-
panse Of transparent tissue relies upon
an unrippled surface for an effect that
does not smack Of the amateurish.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13

of this little shape for restaurant wear.
and laughingly has called this head
dress when confronted by the letter of
the forbidding theater law.
There is possible the attainment of
beautiful iridescence IL black and gold
net be draped over brilliant ribbon.
When once realized in its attractive,
airy form. it win take this country as
decidedly as 1t has captured the cities
of ElIrOne
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
Coat Fastenings
BEwILDERING G nunbe

BEW VIII d E r I n G. number OF
~ changes will be rung upon the
L n way in which the new short coat
is fastened 1t is not surprising that
this new favorite will be treated TO in
novations that viii differentiate 1t from
the long coats OF the winter.
In some cases there is a double-
breasted effect. the revers extremely
long and the buttons few in number
Then, again, a plastron Is added, An
other highly favored fastening is me
invisible one, giving the impression Of a
poured in and moulded to-the-f1gure
style
Points are also used. crossing and Ian
ping at the side under braid and orns-
nlents.
The buttons are gorgeous. depending
upon enamel. Jewels and briIIia nf c,Irss
effects for their beauty
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
The Raiah Toque

"HE Indian, or Rajah, toque is enjoy
ing a large following as between
u season style. OF net or tulle and
wrapped in crossed folds around the
frame. it needs no other ornamental
tion than a jeweled cabochon and an
outstanding osprey at the side or front
Paris was quick to see the beconingness
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13

-rERE is Partisan formula for Q
IL becoming and modish street
costume: To one plain hand
tucked blouse add long jabot
of lace or linen. and over all button
a tailored coat. The result is one Of
those happy combinations that occur
infrequently in the realm of fashion
an alliance OF straight tailored lines
with the attractive. fluffy relief that is
dear TO the heart Of womankind.
The jabots now worn in Paris are
long. necessitated by the cut Of the
revers on the newest coats. and al
though a greater amount of material
is required. there is the compensation
in the double quantity of crisp snowi-
ness at the front-surely high point
in their favor.
The model at the left is combina-
ton Of net and Irish lace insertion.
The band of lace encircles the stock
collar and is used for the central strip
Of the jabot. The pointed end of this
is ornamented with a strip that runs
parallel with the hem. and when the
whole end is pleated there is a de-
lightful step arrangement at the low
er edge. OF course, a less expensive
lace can be substituted, but the COM
bination OF net with lace insertion is
a happy one, and worthy of your
notice.
Hand-tucked net Of the sheeresc
quality forms the material of the
next The high collar is edged with
velvet ribbon one inch in width. CIV
ing a contrast at the neck line that is
particularly favored by women in
France. The straight band down the
front is tucked horizontally and edged
on each side with a soft frill of net.
Crocheted buttons outline the sides-a
little touch that speaks for itself
This scheme suggests any favorite
color, IL your idea is to adhere STRICT
ly to certain shades-brown for your
brown suit. dark gray. fox gray and
so on. But when in doubt, choose
black and white.
Irish lace is again used on the third
model. The upper and lower edge Of
the stock is bordered with the insertion
OF a slightly coarser pattern. The
plisse in this case Is adjusted at the
side. falling in three sections, and CIV
ing the irregular one-sided trimming
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13

cries. or with laces studded with inita
ton stones to match the tone of the
accompanying skirt.
They are most fascinating for after
noon wear, and are generally collarless
and short of sleeve.
The chiffon or chiffon cloth falls fichu-
like from the shoulder over the bust.
and wide draped belt confines the
waist. although sometimes a dariDgly
broad leather belt does duty
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
The Separate Blouse

" HE return of the belt to the normal
waist line has given a renewed
- impetus to the blouse. 1t is again
in evidence, and distinctive in style.
A glance at the Viennese models shows
many of these charming separate
blouses in corored chiffon deliberately
trimmed with gold and silver embroid-
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
n Rzz7au c1asullalz~ -
mh Lxe owZzzu1r Gre7 s5M7 -.

hold their own, and there is ample rea-
son for their ornamentation. They are
plain in texture. all of them; and it Is
upon the most severe background that
we most successfully | apply ornate
touches.
The braided shawl collar of cream
colored serge Is one of the simplest
types Of seasonable collar decoration
wavy line of heavy white soutache,
edged by two straight rows. is worked
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13

TTYITH the incoming spring suit or
M street costume we are to have
w an avalanche of ornamented
collars 1t is not to be expected for an
instant that lovely woman could-resist
the temptation to decorate the region of
the face and throat when so obvious an
opportunity is offered as the plain sur
face of a linen, a serge or a pongee
garment.
These three successful materials will
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13

upon background OF bias blue velvet.
Its finish is round disk OF the braid
Blue velvet with white serge is. shown
in second model. the collar of which
Is an outline suggesting slight tend
ency toward the tailor shape. Its back
section is. as the picture will show,
made of the blue velvet with braid
decoration where IT. joins the serge.
A collar approaching still more close
ly the sailor outlines is of empire green
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13

satin adorned with Irish lace, which is
outlined with black silk braid Black
satin ribbon ties contribute to this con-
trasting note on a Manufactured pom
gee coat
A few suggestive notes. these. to
show which way the fashions tend.
Women who dress well do not neglect
their necks. their .throats or their
shoulders. These are telling points. and
the keynote OF a costume Is frequently
to be found right here.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-13
Good Taste in
Gloves

/" HE question OF gloves-gloves cor
rect and incorrect-stirs US long
and often. There are certain
rules for the covering Of the
hands. lust as there are for the touchy
matter Of necks in the dinner gown-cer-
tain rules that hold fast, TO the exclu-
sion Of novelties. or else that remain
and hold their own at least SIDE py
SIDE with momentary fashions gooo
though they may be- j.
Now. be 1t observed that sntcneo
gloves belong 10 daytime hours and
that the more tenderly scanned glove is
Of the evening.
II IS fact and not fancy that for ousl-
ness. for marketing. for shopping TOT
motoring, the heavier gloves are In the
lead. Pray, why not. if we are reason
able. thinking beings2
Suitability enters so largely into ques-
tions that stir the breast Of the unac-
customed that they can be given no
better answer to their long-drawn-out'
nersistent inquiry than Think 1t out.
We stand here, however. ready TO sup
plement the thought and to answer the
question.
Chamois gloves? They are essentially
for summer. as are most things washa-
bic. but the now passing season has
been lenient in the little matter OF the
chamois skin and has permitted It, pre-
sumably because OF its color. certain
place with the winter costume. White
buckskin. too, has been acceptable, both
OF them in the out-sean glove. Of course.
Gray buckskin and brown mocha
gloves are two more wintry looking
stitched varieties that will soon be rele-
gated 10 the background to make room
for the smoother glace glove or for the
spring stock Of yellow chamois.