The Washington herald., 1910-04-30
MATERIALS THAT ARE
USED IN TRIMMINGS

Wv NAAeNA SAiAikAANAAg - AAAt NVAA AiA AstSAl-
ions. materials and colors are occupying
the center OF the stage in the world OF
dress, forming as they do not only the
framework Of dress but its ornamental
ton as well to the partial exclusion Of APP
Piled trimmings of lace and braid
The use of trimming on a gown makes
II more becoming. softening hard tones
and lines, accentuaung the length OF
breadth. or detracting from II where most
required by the figure. Now that the de-
cree has been pronounced against applied
ornamentation, the lines and tonal quail
ties which It lends 10 a gown must be
given by the materials used in the con-
struction. Consequently the designers
are letting their imagination run riot In
the use Of colors and materials in this
seasons gowns
There IS a revival of many of the old
timey silks. and one IS amazed 10 FIND
the most stunning afternoon and evening
gowns fashioned of soft chiffon taffetas.
and even the old surah silk. delightfully."-
soft and crushablc but with the same
pretty twill of long-ago days This last
mentioned material is charming In the
new Paisley tones forming the lower por-
ton Of bodice with yoke and sleeve caps
of black satin and with a wide band OF
satin holding I'm the fullness Of the skirt
at the lower edge The briliiancy OF the
colors in the Paisley surah IS yelled with
black chiffon. adding a quiet dignity OF
tone which would make II becoming even
70 an elderly matron It is not unusual
Z IN
taffeta used in the making OF one gown
The dun finished silks, guiltless Of lus.
tire, are much liked and their present
vogue seems to indicate that they vii
invade the high place so long occupied
by the beautiful mstrous satins we have
been wearing The satin used I'm tn,
gowns shown at the openings this spring
seemed TO have a duller lower tone thar
heretofore. and quite as lustreless as
when yelled with chiffon. Another mate.
rial which IS coming into use again Is
Deau dc sole In one pretty little after
noon gown 'hown is in green
and white checked taffeta silk COM
| bined with marine blue peau de sole
which charmingly gives the dark tona
qualities needed 20 soften the high lights
Of the silk. In making a gown OF this
type at home, II you wish 10 have Il very
new in style. make the band al the lower
edge slightly narrower than the upper
part of your skirt Many Of the skirts
measure only a yard and three quarters
at the lower edge. This is an extreme
width and probably you would prefer II
less exaggerated in which case you could
make IL as much as two and a half OF
three-quarters- Inlet a few gathers al
the side and back at the belt. II is
always prettier and better dressmakinc
to attach band trimming 20 a dress with
a fine cording or an edge Of a bias band
You could give a new note by making
the cording in different color. for IN.
stance. II you are using a polka-dottec
silk IN blue and white with plain blue
silk trimmings. make your cordinCs Of old
rose, lettuce green or brilliant cerise pink
Although the designers are combining
many cOlors in one gown, all softeneG
and subdued by transparency Of chiffon
one indeed needs 20 be an artist 10 dupIi-
cate these colorings. and a saint in pa
tience to try &c buy them in the average
shop. Il IS wiser to attempt the simpler
combinations. and II you wish 10 VET
with chiffon buy white or light gray and
take It TO the dyers with a sample O,
your material
Now that tarreta has been firmly e.
tabhshed, II Is being used in the most
attractive ruchings, pumings, qufIlinzs
and tucked bands. The quillings are
delightfully."- old-fashioned looking and
very becoming when used on the new
narrow skirts. A charming dress for
young girl for garden party wear was
made Of dotted white silk null over
pink taffeta. The bodice was a sim
pie full affair. with a draped fchu
edged with deep planted Valencieunes
the right end Of which was drawn well
over 20 the left side of the front fasten.
ing over a G1rdle Of draped pink taf-
feta, with a planted rosette and long
sash ends Of chiffon The silk null
Overskirt was slightly fun. held in a,
the knees, lower edge and half way
in between with a full quilting Of tai
feta. The short sleeves and low square
neck were edged with a wide band OF
the wide lace in a very girlish and pretty
manner. This design would be charming
in dotted Swiss or net, or In a simple
batiste. e one wishes TO have a less ex-
pensive summer frock. Then you would
probably like TO save on the lining and
put the extra money in another gown
in which case you could use a soft silk
| muslin instead Of silk; you have no idea
how charming this material is for a
foundation lining in sheer materials until
you try IL.
Buttons are used quite frankly in fas-
tening many Of the new dresses. They
are not so tiny that they slip the holes
but sensibly large to hold securely. II
gives one a decided feeling Of relief after
the seasons Of gaping loops and lingerie
buttons and other unsatisfactory nnethnds