New-York tribune., 1910-04-03


The spring ead summer season % chic-
tors opens in an odd mixture q modes
From the picturesque gowning Of past
centuries bits are culled and in 4 :0ingling
Of strange co!ors and different materials
gre wrought by clever fingers into won
de-fus confections that cften starue one
with their strangeness.
independently. each house launches -
o-vn designs. resulting in an apparent state
of i..decision that leads 70 p lack Of en-
sh,,siasun IN selecting ones wardrobe
Intensely modern are short, scant-s6irteo.
walking costumes shown - one great
house in the Place Eendome- The little
--soclZey-' coat buttons once at the waist
,ir,e. then rounds slenderly % the back
Large square cuffs end the long coat
sleeves. and there is a wide Cat collar
These may he OF plain silk. or cldIh, WIN
p little ribbon or braid decoration The
ribbon. newer than braid. inch wide. is
arranced in tiny box pleats and stitched
through the middle Il is particularly e.
fcctive when used TO finish collars ana
cuffs of white English embroidery. New
soft woollen materials in pretty checks OF
two colors and fine stripes. compose these
swagger little affairs.
side by side with these costumes ot the
twentieth century are 1850 gowns Of taf-
cetas. silk wolfe and haI%-e~. IN many
cases they are absolute copies of gowns
Ger5;cted in old fashion books cf hair q cen
fury and more ago. Their gathered skirts
are trimmed with Hounces edged with u1y
frfIls or many rows OF velvet ribbon.
Csov-I,s OF pale-tinted silks are trimmed -
tie round waist with flounces o. BLACK
Chantiliy lace, and there are double and
triple skirts. Other gowns while preserv-
ing the uuairtness CT hyEone period. are
brought distinctly up 20 date by clever
touches, adding the alIureIneuts Of the
twentieth century. 3ts unsurpassed taste The
heritage of the ages. Thoroughly modern
ss the new adjustment OF ribbon sashes on
these frou-frou toilets. Banding the skirt
under the nounoe passes . vide soft
ribbon, usually IN contrasting colorins: il
ties IL a large fat bow IN ;1e back. IL front
or at one side While quite covered ny the
nounce, il IS. nevertheless. extremely deco
rative.
OF quite common beauty vas gown of
black rnousseline de sole lis skirt. that
Just touched the ground. WAS composed Of
two pleated dounces. A wide black ribbon
sash covered the top edge Of the upper
founce tying at the back - q biz bow
with short ends. At the top cf the second
ffounce, covered by the Us7per one. was an
other sash which tied :n a bow without
ends ~ the back Under the black tr@ns-
pa-ency the corsaEe was CirCled WIKI &
Nee ribbon oe brilliant emerald green and
e b:t Of the same charming color was
worked into the belt ana Jae sleeves
Decidedly II is & season of silk IN its
ever increasing softness and fascinating
transparencies Il is pecCl-ailr suited 10 the
fsounced. fri!led and r8-Icd creations thai
are prominent abong the seasons fashions
On the other hand the new silks dsslsncE
for tailored costumes have a f-ner. more
solid weave than has been the case for
some time
Particularly desira Die. IN black ard II all
Dark shades Of color. IS q silk woven with
rather large cords running from selvllse
20 selvedge- A svagger tailored costume