The Washington herald., 1910-09-13

Als A1dcnihe' an lnsoie which IS Just the
shape Of the bottom OF the last. This
| insole has been previously prepared by
having a little slit cut along the edge
on slight level toward the center.
Another little slit inside the first one
and on the opposite slant is cut, and
the two turned outward so that they
stand at right angles 10 the face Of the
insole. The toe box, which gives per-
manent form 10 the toe Of a shoe, is
put IN place. coated with a peculiar
elastic gum by the Rex Box Toe Com
pany Machine. The operator now places
the upper on the last so that every seam
comes in just the position designed and
/ a tack driven part way in BY the Rex
Assembling Machine holds It in position
az the heel. Now comes one OF the most
| important Operauons-the Rex Pulling
over Machine draws the leather smoothly
around the last, the operation adjusts .he
machine so that every seam in the
upper lies at just the exact position
intended A second pressure on the foot
lever Of the machine, and two tacks
driven on each side OF the toe hold
the upper al that point securely in
place. The Consolidated Hand Method
Lasting Machine now draws each portion
OF the upper securely down 10 the
last. taking the stretch from the
leather. and tacks driven automatically
but part way in hold It there. The toe
portion is smoothly drawn around this
part Of the shoe by the ingenious United
Shoe Machinery Company's Lasting Ma
chine No. 3. These operations are most
carefully performed. and the lasts are
not removed until the shoe IS finished.
so CraddOck Shoes hold their shape and
are comfortable; they are not drawn
tightly IN one place and loosely in an
other. The Rex Upper Trimming Ma
chine now trims of all the surplus parts
OF the shoe upper and The Goodyear In
sole Tack Pulling Machine withdraws
the tacks which held the insole 70 the
last The shoe IS now ready 70 receive
the welt, which is a narrow strip OF
prepared leather sewed along the edge
OF the shoe. beginning where the heel
is placed and ending at the same spot
on the opposite edge. This welt is sew
ed from inside the lip OF the insole. and
the curved needle passed. through the
lip. shoe upper and welt. uniting all
three securely and allowing the welt 10
protrude outward from the edge OF the
shoe. The needle in making this stitch
does not go inside OF the shoe. but
passes through only a portion OF the
nsole, and as the tacks which were
driven but part way in. IN lasting. are
withdrawn the shoe is left perfectly
smooth inside. This part or the work
was formerly one Of the most difficult
and laborious tasks in shoemaking. As
it was performed entirely by hand. the
drawing Of each stitch depending upon
the strength and mood OF the workman,
II Is. OF course, obvious that stitches
were ofteutirnes OF different lengths and
drawn with different tensions. It Is
surprising how quickly and easily the
work is done on the Goodyear Welt
Sewing Machine. Model c. This famous
machine has been the leading factor in
the great revolution that has taken
place IN shoe manufacturing. It's work
should be carefully noted; all stitches
are OF equal length and measured auto
maucally. the strong linen thread is
thoroughly waxed and drawn evenly
and tightly. for the machine never
tires-it draws the thread as strongly in
the evening as IN the morning. Every
revolution OF the shuttle forms a lock-
stitch OF great strength. which holds
/ the welt. upper, and insole securely TO-
/ gether.
/ The Goodyear Universal Inseam Trim
ming Machine now trims the surplus
portion Of the welt and upper smoothly
down 70 the stitches. and the Goodyear
! Welt Beaten and Slasher forces the
welt 10 stand out evenly from the edge
+ OF the shoe. The Goodyear Shank Welt
\ Skiver thlns OF the welt at the shank.
and a specially prepared material Is
/ spread over the insole 10 form a partial
cushion for the foot The entire bottom
! OF the shoe is now coated with rubber
] cement from the Star Cemsnting Ma
/ chine. and the heavy outsole. made from
4 the most carefully tanned selected sole
/ leather. the rough or flesh side OF which
has been coated with cement, IS nodded
/ into shape and pressed securely into
/ position by the Goodyear Improved
Twin Sole Laying Machine. where it IS
/ allowed TO remain a sufficient time for
the cement 10 set. The next operation
/ is that OF trimming the sole and welt
so that they protrude uniform distance
! from the edge OF the shoe. giving shape
10 the sole. simultaneously with thu
rounding operation the machine cuts q
/ little channel or SLIT along the edge Of
the outside in much the same manner
as the work was done on the insole.
! This portion Of the work was formerly
a very difficult and costly operation by
hand. but seems simplicity itself when
the operation is performed on this ma
chine. The rounding operation simply
includes that portion OF the shoe TO
which the welt has been sewed, leav-
ing the outside at the hoei without a
tension. This portion IS first nailed 70
the shoe on the Loose Mailing Machine
from which small brass nails. automat-
ically driven and spaced, are cllnched
against the steel heel OF the last. The
surplus portion OF the leather is then
| trimmed of on the Heel Seat Rounding
/ Machine. and the little channel. cut by
( the knife OF the Rough Rounding Ma
| chine is turned up so as 10 leave the
/ channel open for the little GOODYEAR
! Universal Channel Opening Machine. IN
which a little wheel turning very rapid
/ ~ lays the lip smoothly back. The out
/ sole is now sewed 10 the welt This
operation is performed on the Goodyear
Outsole Rapid LOckstitch Machine.
I which Is very similar in operation 10 the
/ Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine used IN
sewing the welt to the shoe. The stitch,
however. is finer and extends from the
channel which was cut for Il TO the
upper side OF the welt. where II shows
after the shoe has been finished The
/ ioclIstitch formed by this machine is a