The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1910-11-20
Rx CHARLoTTE n. CoNGER.

IL is the most Sacftu american HoiiuAs-
II is a day endeared TO US all by many
holy memories, and II forces the most
indifferent. the least sentimental OF us
10 look back not alone TO our own child
hood but 10 the beginnings of the ma
ton. its earnest, humble, courageous be-
ginnings.
In this day OF opulenee and luxury we
are prone 10 forget the hard battle for
existence that our forebears fought;
prone TO forget their suf1erings. their
privations Prosperity and comfort have
become such matters OF course with US
that we seldom consider the means by
which they have come about We rarely
recall what we owe 10 the splendid men
and women who settled the country, or
how our standing. our present high place
in the congress Of nations, Is due to their
zeal. their courage, their patience and
industry.
Thanksgiving. however. gives 10 think
as the French say. The Presidents
proclamation brings to mind It's origin
and the circumstances that gave it birth,
as at no other time we see clearly thu
hardships that our ancestors faced, and
in the midst of our plenty we have
visions OF their famine and the timely
relief that brought them 10 their knees
and bequeathed 10 US national holiday.
IL is a long way back from our plenty
10 their poverty, but as long as we can
picture II, as long as we remember II.
there is hope for US.
Commemorative and National.
No man ever went very far wrong who
could look back TO the place Whencs he
started and no nation VIII ever go very
far wrong that can and does recall its
beginnings. This we do at Thanksgiving
time. and with a sentimentaHsm that
does US credit we have kept this day
apart from other holidays and made it
commemorative and national. 1t is the
one day on which we recognize no for
eign influence and delight TO flaunt our
proYincialism. Ii is the one day when
We eschew all foreign dishes and exploit
the American cuisine-a cuisine borrowed
from everywhere, but yet none the less
American.
When the Chauvinistic wave swept
over Germany some FIVE or six years
ago, the Emperor commanded that no
French names should appear upon Ger
man menus. and chat public sentiment
should demand at this season of the
year that there should be no French
dishes nor any French names on our
bills of fare. for there we're no French
men in the little group that gathered on
the New England coast and watched The
ship sail out OF the East with relief for
their distress. Plain, Old-fashiOned dishes
should be served at our national feasts
dishes the recipes for which have been
handed down TO US from the grand
danes who used TO roast them on a spit
before the fire or bake them in the great
oven by its side. Those great ovens are
forgotten in this age Of fireless cooking
and electricity, but privileged is the per-
son who can remember them.
They We're wondrous affairs, those
ovens built into the house near the
kitchen stove that they might share its
heat. A great brick hole, 3 feet wide per-
haps, feet high. and at least feet long.
They were heated with cord wood 81
gantic sticks of 1t were piled in of a
Friday night that IL might be ready for
the Saturday baking, bat at Thanksgiv-
ing time there was more than the Satur-
Gay baking TO do. and il was kept hot for
several days before that memorable
event, hot and full, for our fathers were
not content with our limited menu, and
a feast was a feast in the days Of the
Dutch oven Turkeys, Wild and tame,
went into II. ANithtI4St uQNhSf anu geese
squads and quails decorated H. The
sucking pig was Drowned TO a ravishing
Grip there. Then there were pies OF
every sort and description, meat pies
and sweet pies. cakes and cookies, and
every other sweet under the sun And
such fragrance as came out Of that great
oven, IL can neither be imagined nor
described, II would excite the most jaded
appetite and tempt the vOracious small
boy 10 raids and forays on the pantry
where the delectable dishes were finally
stored. What an array they made. the
riches that came out OF those great
ovens on the pantry shelves. 1t would be
a curious small boy. indeed who would
not be tempted by such delicious opu-
lence
Roasting Of Pigs.
That wonderful pantry was recently re-
called to my mind by request from New
York. of all places. for some old-fash-
toned New England recipes. DO tell
me how you roast pigs?" my correspond
ent asks; "at least. how your grand
mother or your at-grandmother roast
ed them, for l DONE suppose you ever
saw a sucking pig. but my baby boy is
coming OF age at Thanksgiving time and
he insists upon a sucking pig, but how to
cook it! Ny chef never heard OF a suck
ling pig and mince pie TO him Is a sort OF
hash with vegetables in it, while his
plum pudding-weli, / shall not try 10 de-
scribe it. but you can imagine what a
Francois would MAKE out OF a dish that
only a Mary Jane knows how 10 prepare
The old recipe of mince pie would come
handy Just now, If YOU have It, I don't
mean the modern mince pie, but the old
oil Fa.e ~ raa1
In a word. send me several leaves out OF
grandmother cook book and be assured
OF my eternal gratitude"
It occurred to me that what this New
York friend was seeking would be &C.
ceptable to many others. ana so I an
setting down here some Old-fashiOneC
recipes Some of them did come down tC
me from my grandmother. who had them
from her grandmother. and some have
been given me by friends who inherited
them from their grandmothers, but I ven.
ture to say that few OF them will bs
found in any OF the cook books of the
day.
A sucking pig for roasting should be-
at least month old. Cut it open length.
wise. clean. and allow 10 lie IN cold
salted water a half hour Wash the live,
and heart and fry with one-half pound O,
Urn PoAAf 9iioSu oiiioAt SelefJ Seed ant
green peppers. To this add a loaf OF
bread grated, two tablespoOnfuls of pow.
dered sage. like quantity OF sweet mar
joram and parsley; stuff the pig witt
this mixture and sew up, skewer tn,
legs close 10 the body and place in
roasting pan one-third full OF water
sprinkle the pig with salt, pepper. anC
powdered sage and roast. basting FIRE
quentiy. Gravy should be made from tn,
drippings in the pan, and the pig should
be served with sweet potatoes glazed
with butter and sugar and creamed car
rOts