New-York tribune., 1910-09-04

l fdFis. August Il
| This is the week that the important dress
making establishments devote to the ex-
| hibitinE of the winter and autumn models
| to the American buyers The American
buyers are always the first in Paris and the
| exposition for their benefit lasts about fif-
| teen days. Then come the German dress
| makers and buyers; afterward those from
the French provinces. from Greece. Turkey
and Agiers. and the season of expOsitiOns
In the dressma king world drags on until
the beginning of October, when private Gus
| toners come to town.
These first days always rather tense
with excitement, and entrance into the
showraoms of the important establishments
is attended with a good deal of formality
The dressmakers all want to display their
new models but with one idea. and that is
to sell them However, competition Of late
years has been so great that lot of the
old rules have been discarded, noticeably
one that forbade d saleswoman showing
models to a customer who saw the models
the season past and did not buy anything.
There are lot of new ideas, and, i'm
truth. it is going to be difficult to bring
gowns of last winter up to date. She is a
fortunate woman who carefully packed
aWay her costumes OF year or two ago,
for these are much more capable of a rem
ovation than are recent models.
There are no ane-piece gowns among the
new DAYTIME models. Everything is skirt
with blouse 10 match and short coat to
cover. There are a great many belts or,
rather. elaborate sash arrangements. On the
other hand there are many blouses and
skirts that connect without belt, but the
trimming of the skirt 81 completed on the
blouse the blouse is connected with the
skirt in some other way
All costumes show combinations of celors
and materials. In mind is a costume made
of blue liberty satin, mousseline de sole
in the same shade and thick red cloth
This cloth is one of the stuffs. AL
though it is very light it suggests the sort
of stuff that a careful housewife puts over
her piano. A lot of it is being ordered for
the New York market and I think 1t Will
be recognized by this description. Although
the stuff itself is not in the least beautiful
the costume of which it forms a part is
most chic and in this connection it may be
noted that q wise decision of the French
Academy allows the word Chic in the die
tionary. There is ne ether word which so
we'll describes this model. The under gown
is of liberty satin in navy blue, the lower
part hanging in tiny box pleats over an inch
of the red cloth. An overskirt of blue
mousseine de sole is edged with wide
band Of black fur, and meusseiine de sole
makes the blouse, which fails a bit ever
the high waist line of the skirt, and has
an embroidery about the shoulders of red
and blue The sleeves are of the liberty
stuff and are slightly fulled into a NOUS
seline de sole cuff set at the elbows.
This. in turn, finishes with undersleeye
of yellow lingerie work. the whole sleeve
covering only two-thirds of the arm There
Is guimpe TO match the undersleeve, and
the choker is quite novel. considering the
collarless blouses of the springtine- 1t is
so high that 1t covers the chin and rests on
its curve like a little cap. The over
garment is short tunic OF red cloth. with
a deep square collar of black fur.
If any long coats are to be worn this
season as a part of tailored suits there is
no hint of it in the present winter models
The coats barely cover the hips. but are
cut TO cling SO closely to the lines of the
figure that the effect is almost that of a
one-piece costume. OF course. coats of this
sort are best on a slender figure. and there
are so MANY figures that are not slender,
and which are in need of tailored suits, that
one wonders If this fashion will not be mod
flied If IL Is not, it is not at all necessary
IN wear a tailored gown for afternoon wear.
for there are any number of models of ex-
fra coats of all lengths and styles And
there are also any number of handsome
DAYTIME gowns TO be worn beneath these
For the winter a lot of velvet gowns viii