Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-24

heard of his arraignment of course Per-
haps the learned professor was a little
hasty. but glance backward over the
varied styles Of the past year or two is
all that Is necessary to find just what he
had in mind when he loosed the gates OF
criticism.
For the wife of a man In moderate cir
cumStances to have kept dressed "up to
the minute" during the past three years
would have been an utter impossibility
Rich women only. society women, and
after al 1t was mainly at this class that
DR.. Davenport directed his remarks, were
alone able to stand the financial strain
that Following fashions DEGREES entailed
when the wonderful French creation.
the first sheath gown. hit America and
was shown in the shop window. those
VINO had the temerity TO appear on the
street in the striking costume had to
mana over a couple of thousand dollars
Tor the pleasure Here. at any rate, is
s, case where some women were CLOTHES
horses Tor some ones wad.
To be the possessor of sheath
gown. directoire hat and parasol in
the days when these freaks of fashion
were at the height of their popularity
decidedly meant the possession of an
elastic pocketbook.
And how women went crazy over
these gowns. Those who did not have
the courage to appear on the street in
the models as the French dressmak-
ers designed them quickly modified
them to suit American ideas of
modesty and the directoire became the
rage
But not for long. Only few months
later some enterprising French cos
tuner thought out the ecclesiastical
gown
a year ago a lady who obeyed
fashions mandate had one of these
called 1.-The gown with five hundred but
tons
The society bachelor who wed during
the Easter season of 1909 had a dismal
ed to be smartly dressed and have the
credit of being considered so emblaZoned
on the pages Of the society journals had
to have one of'these sweet gowns
They were truly remarkable those but
ton dresses. The men who paid for them
will remember how they looked. The
women have long since forgotten
Up and down the back, over the shout
ders, around the skirt and sleeves, moth
ing but buttons Hundreds of EN-. The
only cause the bachelor who we'd last
season had for congratulation was that
the buttons did not button. They We're
just sewed on the outside for ornament.
Following the introduction of the five
hundred-button garment there was an eff
fort to boost into popularity the curious
affair called the pantaloOn gown.
There society baked. One or two very
daring matrons adopted the style for a
week or two. but soon laid aside their
purchase.
The pantaloon gown was produced by
a Partisan actress. who wore it because
lit felt comfortable.
The unique garment was donned much
as man hauls on a pair of trousers. The
only opening was at the side and along
the waist line. Therefore, the wearer had
to climb in and hoist.
Petticoats were an unknown quantity.
In their place knee trousers of cloth
were worn.
Hats have played an important part in
the changes of fashion in the last year
Or So
The great merry widow had it's sue
cessful run and the dollar princess toque.
q huge turban-shaped affair, succeeded it |
in popularity.
Now with boom that threatens to
eclipse either of these comes the craze |
for chanticier headgear Rooster feathers
and sometimes whole hens stuffed now
are used for decorations.
Rostands famous barnyard drama has
not stopped at hats in its influence in
fashion.
A celebrated fashion house of London
has just designed a chanticler jacket
suit which bids fairly to make the at
tractive cuirass gown Of last fall and
winter obsolete. No prettier gown has
been designed in recent years than the
cuirass and it's decadence will be wit
messed by men and women alike with re-
greet.
1t Is doomed however Style. who
Prof. Davenport termed despot, has
decred that the ungainly chanticler
jacket shall take it's place. Woman is
ready to submit.
The chanticler suit is cut pointed in
the back and a little turned-up coat that
gives it the appearance of a birds tail.
1t is already a great success
Prof. Davenport's way of describing
the situation is rather blunt. No woman
will enjoy being called a clothes horse.
He is. however in the opinion of many,
right in declaring that fashion is boss
But what are to do about it?
Best bow hunbly and hope that the
next change will be at least not less
becoming than the last.