davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
THE BUTTON-ONS

every type of hat from the taiior-made
to the lingerie.
Flat pockets buttoned or hooked on
to petticoats and inside blouses are
another invention of the button-on girl,
and she finds them vastly more con-
venient than the easily lost handbag.
They are made large enough never to
bulge, and thus they are unnoticea BILE.
All the pretty frills every one is wear
ing are easily buttoned on with pearl
or crocheted buttons; and thus one
blouse may boast half dozen Of these
dainty accessories. bright idea is
to use gold baby studs. with button
holes in both blouse and frill.
The button-on girl takes no chances
with safety pins. Her waists and
skirts are hooked together. There are
five hooks on every one of her skirts,
and Ave eyes in the same places on
every one of her shirtwaists. In the
more delicate materials, the eyes are
sewed to a tape band that runs around
the waist.
The same principle is extended TO the
petticoat and corset cover. No ugly
drops and creases where few fiat
buttons or large hooks and eyes save
the day. And here again the tape band
extra sewing, but many hours gained in
wear and tear.
Moreover, the button-on girl makes
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
SaSheS

"HERE is a great deal OF art in
the wearing OF a sash. One can
II increase ones height or ones
breadth. adorn a plain gown, tone
down an elaborate one. give a touch
z of distinction. to ones whole appear
ance. simply by the way in which the
sash is draped and adjusted.
: Try wearing the sash in shawl
style over the shoulders, caught by
a stitch in back and tucked under
the girdle. to fall in diagonal lengths
10 just above the ankles
Or wind it twice around the waist,
like a girdle; cross it in front and
fasten with a knot at the sides of
the skirt below the knees
Then there is the Scotch tartan effect,
especially attractive with A plaid scarf,
where there is a broad band over the
. left shoulder. a narrow draped one over
the back and the right, and a knot
at the waist on the left side. so
that the sash falls in a broad width
almost TO the bottom OF the frock.
The adjustment of the sash may
well have reference to the conceal
ment of some defect in the garment
e 4t covers-a tiny tear. perhaps, or an
ineradicable stain. 1t should en-
phasize the good points Of the figure
and hide the bad. That is why the old
fashion OF the stiff bow at the back
was so bad; it made every woman
D.. look stout
Give a little thought to the draping
of your sash, and half your battle
for beauty Of appearance is won.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
New Touch in JeWelry

EWELRY, at any rate, in our loose
acceptance of the term, for no
- stones are visible in this pretty
fancy. 1 have spoken of the gold lace
pins crocheted with lace. Now far
seeing manufacturers have brought
out wooden ornaments In all manner
of sorts and shapes-collar pins, hat
pins, belt buckles. cuff links, slipper
buckles-all to be covered with this
crocheted lace. One may have a whole
set of them for an afternoons work,
and they make the daintiest of gifts for
brides and next Christmasers.'
IL crocheting is not in your line. fine
lace can be darned around these wooden
foundations, or dotted or figured net
may be used instead. Whatever ma
terial is used. they are as quaint and
pretty as the lace-covered gold pins.
which is saying a great deal.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31

The leaves must be treated 10 out
lining, with the stems suggested by
heavy lines. Another effective method
Is that of working one-half of the leaf
form solid. starting the stitches in
toward the vein.
When working the buds. a combina-
tion OF solid work for the sides and seed
stitches for the center is good, for these
are small enough not to make the
task seemingly endless.
OF course, the edge Is delightfully."-
easy In its straight simplicity, and you
will use your regular padding of darning
cotton and buttonhole stitch for the
finishing touches.
If your tastes lean toward the colored
embroidery for a library table, tan linen
forms an excellent background for the
blush green's Of the poppy leaves and
stems. A silvery green is the most nat
ural color to select. and harmonizes as
we'll with yellow OF the California pop
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
Embroidery Ideas
PPLIQUE of small velvet fowe

A PPLIQUE of small velvet flowers
II on a net scarf. Scarf and flowers
4 n the latter in border, narrow at
the sides. wide at the ends-were both or
deep terra Gotta.
shirtwaist linen with green silk
worked eyelets in two rows and wide
band of green and white rose embroid-
cry in satin stitch between. Repeated
In smaller pattern for the cuffs.
Dotted net yokes and cuffs with alter
nate pink and cream embroidery in
small squares between the dots. giving
a pink. cream and white checkerboard
effect
Silk net long gloves in queer greens
and blues. embroidered at the elbow and
down the back in vine design OF the
same shade. Also silk gloves with a
line of drawn work about halfway down
the arm and a back of solid white en-
broidery in Chinese pattern.
White allover embroidery strips
stitched in lavender to match a lavender
and white striped linen suit. in which it
was used as insertion. Only the central
part of the pattern was so covered.
Strips of heavy wallachian embroidery
in bright natural colors "a wild rose de-
sign. used as waist trimming and COW
cred with thin folds OF the sheerest
chiffon to soften the color effect
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
Madeira Embroidery

EADEIRA embroidery, which has
Nl become so fashionable in hand
49, kerchiefs, low collars, tabots,
lingerie and table and bureau sets. as
we'll as In allover embroidered gowns
and skirt and jacket suits. is all made
in the Madeira Islands. off the western
shore of Africa, opposite Morocco. Fun
chal, the only town of any size, Is
the port of expectation.
The native workers who produce this
exquisite embroidery are paid from 10
cents to rs cents a day for their labor.
the former wage being much nearer
the average. Men, women and children
work together, sitting on the grass out
side their thatch-roofed huts. Thread,
material and the modern patterns are
all supplied to the local houses near
Funcflal by French and German de-
signers, these two countries being the
markets for the world OF this Madeira
work.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31

one dress do the work OF two. When
she buys or has made an evening dress,
she provides also separate yoke and
long sleeves; and for semidress occa-
sions her decollete gown. with perhaps
a net tunic or draped bodice, appears
with lace sleeves and yoke in quite
different guise.
Wonderful are the changes that can
be wrought in one blouse by the use of
button-on trimmings. A band of APP
plique, ruff1ed sleeves. an overblouse of
embroidered net, and the quite plain
little waist becomes fit for occasions the
most varied and the most trying.
Certainly the button-on idea is worth
attemnting
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31

green can be used for varietys sake.
You will work the petals in short
and-long stitch, allowing about one-halt
inch Of solid work to outline the edges.
The cuplike portion of the seed drum
should be worked solid, with the oval
top in outline: the rest Of the center
is yours. French knots are quick and
effective. yet the introduction OF eyelet
work will repay you for your extra
trouble over -and-over stem stitches for
the long. slender stems. If you have
plenty of time; If not, a heavy outline
stitch. with the final whipping to give
a corded effect.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
Padding Under Color

n FTEN in padding a buttonhole
edge or a design for solid en-
- broidery the white Ladding
shows through the color that is after
ward stitched under it. This Is es-
peciaily noticeable and disagreeable in
a dark shade.
One woman solved the problem by
doing her padding in cotton as near the
shade OF the silk as she could get
The result was eminently satisfactory.
1t may seem extravagant. but the cotton
was only cents spool, and the extra
expense was worth wtiles
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
When Turning a Hem
VTYHEN turning a hem or m

TTYHEN turning a hem or meas
wv uring a skirt to straighten II
w at the bottom, a dressmaker
of my acquaintance saves herself
time and nervous strain by marking
the place. she wants on the tape
measure with a small paper clip-7bne
of the kinds that "stay put" Then
she does not have to search out her
desired mark every time She puts a
pin in the skirt, but feels iautomat-
ical1y for the clip.
In turning a three-inch hem, for
instance. she will put the clip at
three. and for all practical purposes
have with her a three-inch tape
measure
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
For Stout Women

TTYHEN the stout woman. buys
wv silk petticoat. she will seldom
find one to fit her; they seem
to come only in the smaller sizes. But
let her buy one SO much too long that
1t will fit around the waist, and then
shorten 1t by a deep tuck, or by cut
ting it off at the top and, finishing it
by a bias seam that will make the
petticoat snug over her hips.
She will find that she is not then
debarred from that extravaganza
which is really the greatest economy
"a good silk petticoat
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
A Millinery Hint

VTYHAT our English friends call
NV dodge in millinery was shown
to me recently by girl student
in a technical school.
I had a light blue hat faced with
silk of the same shade. but / could
get no colored millinery wire to match
1t. Nothing but black and white were
anywhere to be seen, and either would
have been hideous.
Paint it, said my student. I'VE al
ways paint the white silk wire with
watercolors, and get the exact shade
we want. 1t works beautifully
And 1t did. too.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
Made-Over Garment

I(VTYHEN have dress to make
wv over said the practical
w woman. II always rip it
completely. clean and press 1t. and put
it away for two seasons. Then, when
take it out again and refashion it in the
latest mode, L have a dress that not my
closest friends will recognize. Peo-
ple's memories last over one season,
but never over two.
IF the material Is of a very strik-
ing color. often dye 1t a slight
ly darker shade. Then If anybody
remarks that my new garnet is very
like my old cerise, I answer COM
posedly, Yes, very like and no one is
the wiser"
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31

ing from the outer edge toward the CEN
ter; and isn't the outer edge charming
in its departure from the usual round
seallops?
Well. let US begin. The white work
Is still in the first place with needle
women, yet even here just a touch of
color is possible. In the center of each
Blossom pale yellow or the faintest
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31

b." HESE are not the kind OF pop
pies that viii put my readers to
sleep. Indeed. I very much fear
that you will become SO fasci-
mated with The work on the centerpiece
that I am offering today that you Will
be tempted 70 stay awake too long!
- But here they are before you IN an
unusual design. with the stems grow
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
Tulle Roses

A CHARMING trimming on a pink
IA silk evening dress seen recently
( \ consisted of a cluster of five
roses, formed of pink tulle, with green
tulle stems twisted over thin wire,
sewed to the left side of the low neck.
The effect was exceedingly attractive,
and showed again the value of the little
touches to raise gown from the COM
monplace.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31
To Prevent Slipping

VTYHEN sewing a hem or straight
wv seam. pin the material to your
knee. and you will be sure OF
keeping the goods even and preventing
slipping Every few inches move the
goods on and pin again
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-31

py, shaded pink. or deep red. The seeds
you will work with yellow, and a linen
edging placed at the edge will give q
pretty contrast to the border. which can
be of darker green or golden brown.
For your summer work, to be taken up
when the spirit moves, a centerpiece is
always delightful. Let me know how
this appeals, won't you?
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1910-10-02
PARADISE FOR HIM.
Fred Beyer's Story Of the Medina
Editor.

Fred 5eyer's Story Of the Medina
Editor.
Tho Kansas editors are unanimous
IN their JOYOUS appreciation Of the
story told Nv Fred Boyer. the wei
kroVn Cleveland editor.
a Medina EDITOR relates ecyer.
~ricd and was. Of course. directed To
the Abode ~ the Just. But. during
tho asccn; the editors journalistic
curiosity asserted itself and he said-
Is if permitted for ono n have look
az Or fhc other place.
-ccriairiy..~ was the gracious 70
riv. and aecordiugiy a descent vas
made fo The o,hcr place. Here inc
editor found much - interest him
Ec seurricd about and vas soon lost
fo VirV.
~His angelic escort ro' worried a
farf and hogan n systematic search
~ fir charge. IIc found bin al a.
seated in froat Of a monster furnace
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1910-10-02

fixing up last years coat. which is too
short, if the material can he match
ed.
This is not so very difficult. II ca,
be accomplished by simply adding a
new skirt. slightly circular in shape.
but not enough swing to Fare the leas,
hit. just enough Ia NJ smoothly. II
YOU want to be In the latest fashion
have the collar made very wide and
the iapels long Face with satin or
fsillc silk TO match or black. Tho
sleeves of tailored coats are very
small just the least bit smaller than
last wear. and thcy ~ closely like the
sleeves Of mems coats. There is moth
ing that stamps a Goa, as being OH
as much as the sleeve styles. The
Innings arc also changed this year.
After wearing plain. srbdued colors
for 50 long they seem almost frivoi-
ous IN their many coiors.
Dark blue coats are caily lined with
light blue and white polka Dol silks.
or If one fancics. yellow. old rose or
amethyst are used IN the same man
ucr. Sometimes these Innings arc uscc
I'd tnltIE NNf fNllstl~ anu ANfNf'NN- AHA
ihcy are fascinating In this way When
worn by very young r.ris with fresh.
bright faces. They arc quite trying
f1 older folk. who. nevertheless. re.
fuse 10 admit 81.
Tho COLLEGE girl viii want one Eori
hat. rather larEc one trimmed Nth
feathers. u must have graceful
siauc and 90 well down ON ihe heaa
with a gently siopinr line on fhc lcf'
side. Hats 81 this siyic vii Do GOV
cred with silk velvet ON ihc top win
plain satin OF cashmere underneath
Ihc brim. or vice versa. a. an cniifs
iai Of velvet b. GOO heavy Tor a voun'
riri Many other materials VII Dr.
uscd likewise. although siik cashmrr.
.s fhe very latest fabric
Another novel feature viii D. hoas
cr and foif hats Tor girls. : coniras
NJ cpior seems ~ hc considered mvr'
correct this wear and fhc bats Meet
rot match For SECOND bcf ilcr
should De- a wcarablc raf of hraFc
q soft felt and very simply irimme'
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1910-10-02

Now comes the time when the col
lege girls clothes must be prepared.
She has already gone to her studies,
and her wardrobe must follow. She
is probably now turning over in her
mind the clothes she viii need BE
ing very young and feminine she ma
urally first turns TO the fluffy things
for evening wear and the very best
dresses and suits. A coat suit is one
of the first things needed. and this
should be given the first attention.
Some Of the late coats are quite OK
IRENE in length. about 10 or - incli :
from the ground. and there are others
more modified. just a trifc below the
knees. When many girls only plan
one suit IL is much wiser to choose a
medium dark color There is no ono
T.: charming Coiors hiuc iu % wide
range Of colors. as wcil - stsrlo nevv.
viii be wuch worn this season ard ip
the newer tones there arc many 'rv'
" browns. with ererf tcnl 60 hrer --
and gray IN their makeup.
Purple IN worry drrs cr-1-e anil
lighter crav Sd innrs. f7rs u.ouso rnf
t-ownisa sha1-e ail h- si'r~rG
fashionable for this winter For ro1f
service serge % chcvio. i- scff SO"
vale will he excellent These ra.t-
rails are in plain wcav', or Wi % a
camcTs hair thread IN thti- Texture -
not the old tire fluffy waf r''f s,
wen known. but very lightly inter
woven. Then there are the VOL
known worStcds. while Tor very drcss7
sssi;s broadcloths and silk cashm re-
are well liked.
The extreme lengths IN coal vii
probably be the most IN style fiia
winter for college rirls. Thev a-'
lengthy enough 20 wear as a separate
coat over oncpiccc everyday irr,.
CT separate skirts worn With thc sh'r
waists. and they can even be- Slipped
over a dainty evening frock II rcco-
sary. There Is another long coat fhu
vii BE- very smart this scason. .
has = skirt In separate section %
"ekirtec" effect. stitched 70 TIE upre
part y rcuinds nrc RI thc Tact tha
& would be 80 easy 70 use this idea a
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1910-10-02

in staple materials. Some girls pre-
fer the small hats with turned ur
hrims and they are very correct this
year
When the college girl plans hcr
evening dresses she should have at
least one with a polonaise skirt. one
of the pretty drapcd styles with the
ends tied in a large. soft bow above
the knees. II is best to have it IL
black IL you are slender enough To-
wear this color If more straightness
of lire is desired one Of the Tapped
over styles may be worn. They are
shorter in front and gradually length
en- in the back Or se.ec' ono that is
plain fitting about the hips. with just
a suspicion of gathers in the back 20
conform with the newest fashions.
The rhldcrskirt may be pleated or
circular in Shaping. with pretty
sweep al the lower edge. If the plan
IS to have the dress dccollete. soften
the neck with an inner band Of tullc
OF fine lace. " tulle is used pale silk
CT contrasting color is often quite
pretty. Band the sleeves 20 match.
using the material for the short uppc.
portion or sleeve cap. This IS Away,
more Becoming than the hard line or
the material
Ono very nice evening gown should
10 Of satin or chiffon cloth. and for
another soft batiste in white OF col
or. silk muslin or cotton wolfe will be
rrctfy. Rose coiors will be worn for
evening costumes this year. Black =,
very good. but e Is not suitable for
Young women. a gown Of gray chif-
fon can be worn by Young woman
n has a satin lining Of wistaria snc
is tiTnmed IN ;hc most fascinating
manner with ands Of velvet matching
the lining in color. The skirt Is gath
cred straight. and a great amount Of
the fuiIncss spreads toward the sides
and the back The short. fan bodice
IN surplicc effect is cut in one. with
tho short sleeve caps and slip stitch
ed 10 the under guimpc of hnciuckcd
brussels net.
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1910-10-02

The fail is the time Of year when
many women seek to replenish Their
linen closets. The shops then do big
business in white goods and embroio-
cries. A fine embroidery that be-
comes soiled is often sold for les,
than half its original value. and many
of the pretty gowns that will be see.
in the near future will not make then
appearance in public until after they
have visited the cleaner.
When ii comes TO linens there are
bargains in all lines. Perhaps the
greatest demand is for table linens,
of which no housewife ever has
enough. At least. she will never ad-
nit having enough. Linen seems 10
appeal to the womanly heart morc
than other household necessities. and
the woman who does not boast OF a
we'll filed linen closet is not a norma,
woman.
When il comes to towels. the siOrS
is a long one. In fact. the average
woman will be surprised At the fcats
% towel beauty spread out in tho
largcshops at this time Of ' ar. II is
possible 10 pay prices for fine towels
undrcamed OF by our grandmo'hers.
There is a fancy right now for sca~
iorcd towels. and some very beauti-
fui patterns are being shown. There
are some beautiful crashes and they
arc also cheaper a, this time ~ year
They are quite pretty enough 70 make
band towels fo- the bath room \
linen crash is 10 bc preferred ans time
m chcap r1ade-up towel. u is ais>
possible 10 buy wash-cloihs much
cheaper than heretofore.
There is a special dawas ~ i and
20iach widths. designed Tor tho dress
cr and wash-siand covcrs. Those VIM
Scrd their laundry ont NJ the homo
will appreciate tho advantage offered
by Tho damask cover. a. its wearing
qualities are admirable IN fact. these
scarf fsmasks arc NJ the same quality
a. table linen. There Is also another
scarfnc material sold nv the yard
that is very popular. This j. n ~kai
o. called union" being p mixture ~
cotton and linen, one edge scalioped.
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1910-10-02

Each civilized country has a differ
ent mode Of administering the oath liz
courts of law. The American way is
probably the most simple of them all
tho witness merely being compelled
to raise his right hand and repeat the
following:
Il swear TO tell the truth, the whole
truth. and nothing but the truth, so
help me Cod
English courts have done away with
the old practice of compelling the wit
ness to kiss Bible. The old method
was objected TO on account of I'M
cleanliness BY the new way a wit
ness must hold a Bible above his heao
while he is being sworn to tell the
truth.
In Spanish courts taking the oath
l.. quite a complicated ceremony. The
witness goes down on his right knee
aud-places his hand on the open Bible.
The question is put, VIII you swear
by God and the Holy Gospels that yo.
viii speak the truth in answer 10
whatever questions may be asked
you2" lie answers. 81 do swear" He
IS then informed If he tells the truth
God will reward him. and that II he
does not tell the truth God will requite
him.
In French courts crucifix hangs
on the wall above the judges head
While taking the oath the witness
raises his right hand toward the cru'-
ifix.
4 Belgian witness must add few
words 10 his oath. lie SAYS. So help
me God and all the Saints No Bible
Is used
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1910-10-02
Administering the Oath

Austria has a way of its own. Two
wax candles are lighted. one on each
side of a crucifx. before which the
witness stands. lie repeats after the
Judge the words, Il swear by God the
Almighty and the Advise that | VIII
speak the whole. pure truth, and MOTH
ing but the truth, in reply TO any
questions which l may be asked.
The Norwegian OATH is an impress
sive one. The witness, when being
sworn. raises the thumb and first two
fingers of his right hand. These thre>
represent the Trinity. He repeats
long formula. ending with the wish
that if he swears falsely he may be
punished eterna!ly and his earthly
possessions destroyed.
At the same time the Chinaman is
swearing to tell all he knows, an Off
Ger of the court beheads cock in
front of him. or breaks a saucer, or
blows out a candle These theree
ceremonies are symbols. standing for
the fate that the witness may expect
TO fall upon himself. body and soul,
If the evidence he gives is not true.
In Italy the witness has an open
Bible lying before him. The oath he
takes is quite simple. II swear 10 tell
the truth and the whole truth
In all civilized countries the witness
takes the oath with barred head. there
being hut one exception. Jews claim
the right to wear a hat when address
ing the Deity. The Jew has no spe-
cia! oath peculiar to his race. Du'
uses that of The country IT. which ne
resides.