The new era., 1910-02-03


and there took a Belgian
X state steamer for Ostend-
the Atlantic City" of north
Il ern Europe, and in season
one of the gayest and liveli-
ist pleasure places of the world. Very
small houses on wheels are provided
for the use Of bathers, for dressing
and undressing. A horse pulls the
little house into the water. When the
bather is through with his fun in the
surf he steps directly up into his little
house. and does not have to get his
feet covered with sand or mud by
long walk to his dressing room. as in
our American bathing resorts. After
he is dressed his little house is again
pulled up on the dry land.
There is said to be much. gambling
at Ostend, but If there is it seems to
be quite private. At the Kursaale
there is dancing IN the evening and
splendid display Of gowns and MILL
merry of the latest Paris styles. Some
of the girls are very pretty and they
show great grace in dancing. Some
of the ladies probably belong to high
social circles of Euroupe, some to the
demi-monde. There Is, after all, q
certain democracy among Europe's
aristocracy and a certain aristocracy
among the looser democracy. They say
there is very much wickedness at Os-
tend, but at any rate there is little or
no outward vulgarity. No one not Of
respectable appearance and not in full
evening dress is allowed among the
gay dancers.
The shops of Ostend are very at
tractive. All the pretty things of the
Paris and Brussels shops can be seen
here. and there are many attractive
local products, like novelties in delft
porcelain ware.
My next goal was Hamburg, Ger
many. the first stage of this journey
being Cologne on the Rhine.
The German frontier is reached at
Herbestadt. and then we are In the
kaiser's country, and soon In the beau
tiful city of Cologne. Here we can get
eau de cologne that is the real genu-
ine article. and the average tourist
will buy enough to perfume his hand
kerchiefs for some months to come
and also some to make lady friends
even sweeter.
From Cologne on another train we
cross fine bridge over the Rhine,
with all its interesting memories, and
go northeast to Hamburg. The scenery
the whole distance is tnteresting-a
study in careful farming, scientific
forestry and in the bold. ornamental.
imposing architecture characteristic
of German cities and villages.
The Germans are serious, patri-
otic. hardworking people, and perhaps
feel that personal adornment is too
indicative OF frivolous luxury. More
over. they are bohemian. They like
to go out in the evening to theaters
and cafes and be informal and not at
tempt to put on any style whatever
The very popular and pretty young
Kronprinzessin Cecilie is, however, 1
am glad to learn, setting higher stan
dards of dressing for the ladies' of Ger
many. Her highness is said to dress
In exquisite taste and all her gowns
are said to be made in Paris and of
the latest modes, and from her photo
graphs she looks just like a leading
smart society girl of one of our Amer
lean cities.
The great free city OF Hamburg" is
one of the places which every broad
minded person should consider part of
his education to visit. If indulging in
foreign travel at all. I had intended
Ito spend only few hours here, but
4 soon saw l owed it to myself to
spend at least three days, and l re-
kretted that the three days could not
have been three months.
The quaint, but lively city. with its
splendid shops. theaters. open air
places oil amusement and gigantic
docks and harbor. the big public build
ings. the splendid hotels. which have
the best cooking that have ever
known-so tasteful and substantial
certainly delight the senses But
what pleased me most about Hamburg
was the beautiful Alster river. which
right in the heart of the city widens
into a big basin, where pleasure boats
u all sorts glide about and a great
humber Of beautiful swans disport