New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-12-04

These days. when every item of house
70 pirate Of French economies. Figures show
that meats are even higher in France than
they are here. and yet the French woman
sets an excellent table on sum that would
seem ridiculous TO an American housewife.
How is il done?
BY economy cries the preaching
economist The French cook makes
nourishing soup of what you American
women throw into the garbage pail
French cuisine is the utilizing OF left
overs
The preaching economist is right when he
saws that the French hcusekeeper Is
economical. but he IS wrong in every other
particular, says an American woman who
has just returned TO this country after
residence of ten years in the land of cult
nary triumphs.
The French cuisine she told the re-
porter lis not cuisine CT leftoveEs; on
the contrary. there is nothing French
woman so disikes 10 be obliged TO COOK
a piece of meat second time: and as Tor
soups. I have never in any part Of france
seen q SOUP made from anything but fresh
meat. On the contrary. | remember
French cook giving as her excuse for leaF-
a
close lot FOR they wanted her 10 make soup
out Of chop bones. In truth. a French chop
after il has been scraped To perfection by
q French butcher is hardly more than
toothsome morsel quite easily hnisheG a
one meal
Years ago. when the average American
family began serving soup as a course al
dinner We used to hear lot about the
SOUP kettle It was supposed to De always
simu,erfns on the back of the stove and 10
be a receptacle for any piece Of meat tilat
might come off the table Out OF TINS POI
came every night the evening soup, ana
the strangest thing about the soup he''Ie
was that il was supposed TO De r FeiiCi
'tSol1p IS the classic dish IL france anu
there are no two WAYS OF making it, any
more than there are two ways OF cooking
corned beef and cabbage in New England
T, fine kitchen OF the rich chicken or parts
Of a chicken. such as the feet. head Ups
or wings and gizzards. are added TO the
so,In h1,t that is only a matter o. taste
and many prefer the beef soup as II -
made in every peasants hut
"A four-DoUnd piece OF beei bEishe' II
chosen and this With a veal bone Il pul ia
four quarts of well salted cold water As
il comes slowly TO a boil the scum Is very
carefully removed. \ bouquet OF FeSe-
tables consisting OF TWO leeKs- TWO S1Iia'i
carrots. several tuInips and some 1resh
,,arsley. is tied together and added [" the
boiling soup and this is left to simmer
three, hours Wren it Is ready the n"lieu
niece Of meat is taken ont and arranged Oh
2 Matter with the Vegetables about II ana
Y,otatoes " HIGH have heen cooked separa'e-
IL and this makes the main course OF me
dinner. the soup preceding IL Inc resi- "a
the so7,r is carefully strained ana put aslue
-o cool This will keep several days anu i
the Main bouillon that forms the basis o.
all French stock soups. The next nlghl il
may be served with rice, another uIiie
.b,ckened with macaroni ar dlshed "p WIN
q few dried vegetables la Julienne-
French people regard il as no haruSiIit
~ eat soup meat and served plain with t'fe
vegetables or cold with tomato Or plquaii'
.anoe II is an appetizing dish 1t is OFTEN
en- In small pieces and served as hoi >
d'oelyre with dressing Of oil ana Nlhesai
Hash and croquettes are Two ways OF u'ii-
izinS cold beef. but neither of these DISHES
&c looked on as astronomical success