The daily Gate City. [volume] (Keokuk, Iowa) 1855-1916, 1910-09-16


The hip length coat is the new box
shape, which defines the figure very
little, and this coat has broad collar
and reyeres, and also cuffs of the seal
skin
Ratine is new wool material that
| is as light and soft as thistledown,
and which is used for smart motor
coats and for utility suits. Brocades
of great beauty are being used for
| hansome limousine and evening coats.
/ Broadcloths and serges hold the palm
| for coat and skirt costumes, and there
are basket weaves and cheviots which
answer for rough weather coats and
suits. All of these materials are more
or less trimmed with fur, Hudson seal
being the most popular fur for bands
and border trimmings, though the soft,
silky moleskin is used on some suits
and frocks of light material.
/ Serge and cheviot are the materials
| that bid fair to occupy first place in
the long list of autumn fabrics. They
are wide, cutting to advantage, and the
variety of collars and weaves is wor-
thy of favorable consideration. In
Paris these dresses that are built on
shirtwaist suit lines, will be worn I'M
til November without coat, with per-
haps black satin scarfs to protect the
chest and throat. These dresses are
very attractive not only for street
duty but also for the house and the
place of business. There is vogue
for stripped materials These are fire.
quently combined with bands of plain.
Buttons, soutache and black pipings
are generally used in trimming.
Black and white is very fashionable
this season; grays of all sorts are
high in favor and black and gray COM
binations, though somber in tone, are
extremely chic. All the shades OF
mauve and violet will be in vogue dur
, ing the autumn and winter, and there
is new prune color which is particu-
lar we'll liked by the Paris coutiers
Huckleberry is a blue-violet shade
which is shown in cloth and satin fab
RIGS. elderberry being a similar shade
with more of the burgundy tone. The
coats OF many rather somber colored
I suits are frightened by very cheerful
Innings of bright satin or OF Persian
silk
, A very pretty little suit by Cheruit
! made of blue lavendar satin cloth, has
< a coat lining of pindotted white swiss
) over the thin white silk and the effec
j is decidedly dainty Lovely pale colore6
Innings of apricot pink, tea rose vel
I low and cafe au lait tan are put int
e street tailored coats, and the French
e tailor never forgets the little shirret
n lining pockets that are so invaluable
y for the slowing away of small belong
! ings.
Though the new tailor-mades ar
e anything but masculine in type, freak
ish cuts and eccentric modes of trim
ming makes them more feminine il
style than any costumes that hav'
. been brought out in years, the genera
a outline of the silhouette has man
!, nish suggestion. This is due to tn
l. very narrow, straight skirt whicl
l. clings closely to the limbs, and to tn
IS short, loose coat on boxy lines.
IS Box coats of this type are used 70
e morning wear, the more definitely fl
o the garments appearing in the after
e moons. An American tailor suit i
imitation of the French box type ha
" hip-length coat, almost untitled an
a a straight, very narrow skirt to tn
l. ankles. At the lower edge of the Goa
n are three tucks, and similar tucks ar
N placed at the foot of the skirt.
,r Diagonal, curved and vandyked cut
Of are the rule on the gray little tailore
c. coats of the new season. 1t is VI
Of usual to see coat front openin
a. straight from bust to hip, without
lie slant in one direction or lap j
another. Lapped-over effects ar
a. especially modish, and Drescoll ha
W. brought ont a little wine-colored We
n veteen model which is being widel
ty copied by the manufactures in Amer
ca. The short coat of this wine-colo
ed suit has front panel which
stitched to the body OF the coat b
q crochet buttons dyed to match the We
IS veteen. This panel is five inces vic
n at the top, but toward the bottom
IS the coat it widens out in two tabs {
lie wings, which extend almost to I'll
ID underarm seams. A similar panel, bl
ID without the buttons. is placed at II
Of back. A shawl collar of Australian o
ID possum finishes the neck of the Dire
ID coll suit and there is big muff
I'd match.
III All the new features originated
the great designers in Paris may
found in the American built imitation
70 ~ tbaea features NJ coIrse ore,