Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

ished with a shallow yoke Of heavy IRISH
crochet the crochet buttons, the frill
down the left side and the new three
quarter sleeve. The length of the sleeve
Is indicated by the photograph, but in
actual wear these sleeves are usually
pushed up on the arm to just below the
elbow, the soft folds of the material
forming a mousQuetaire effect on the arm.
The simplicity OF this pretty blouse is
very apparent, but the style is very chic.
and many of the smartest models are
made in this way.
Another pretty blouse, slightly more
formal in style, has long sleeves and
close, high stock. This is one of the
practical marquise models which are re-
fined and dainty in style, and never over
elaborate. The material of this waist is
cosely woven, fire batiste on which the
sprays and rings Of eyelet work are en-
broidered by hand The lace yoke fol-
lows the line of embroidery. making
graceful trimming. The sleeves; nat
across the top at the armhole and con-
fined above the cuff in small tucks, are
also In very good style.
Two seasons ago we had high collars
and short sleeves. Last season this fash
ion was reversed, and while our threats
were cool, our sleeves came stickily over
our hands This summer marks an epoch
in shirt waist comfort, for collars may be
left of and sleeves Topped away at the
elbow with perfect propriety, and. indeed,
a large percentage of the new blouses are
| made in this way, especially the later
models OF high-class type. while on the
bargain counters are to be found thou
sands of beautifully fine shirt waists
! brought out early in the season and now
marked down because the sleeves are
! long. Many canny women are buying
these waists and cutting off the sleeves,
| using the lace-trimmed lower portion to
| 10 fr1t-v Md opIr 0.sHf Thnr
| no gainsaying the difference in comfort
| between a long sleeved waist and one
with elbow sleeves on torrid summer
day. and women will be quick to take ad-
vantage of the style which makes for
GOODNESS and comfort.
| The elbow sleeved blouse, however. re-
quires more care in glove selection, and
with the abbreviated sleeve gloves Of
some sort are imperative, as barred fore
arms are in the worst Of bad taste in
| the street Silk gloves are quite as cor
rect as kid during the summer season.
and with the fascinating new embroid-
! cred silk gloves now to be had In most
dainty color effects and self embroidered
! patterns the elbow sleeved blouses are a
| double delight. The prettiest Of these
embroidered gloves have tiny flower en-
| broideries on the back of the hand in
stead of the straight ribs ordinarily used
| The honeycombed models, heavy with
| massive venise medallions and crisis
| crossed with maze of val insertion,
, have happily passed to a style strata that
| Is patronized only by the women who
| seek cheap display at the sacrifice OF fine
| materials. The best shirt waist models
now are extremely simple and refined in
| type. a little hand embroidery, really
good lace and hand run pin tucks consti-
| tuting the chief trimming. Val insertions
\ CHI ty16 ha of
| fine character, for these laces in the
| cheaper grades thicken up and grow sog-
| gy in laundering. The heavier laces. on
| the other hand, need not cost SO much
| There are very good limitations of cluny,
| torchon and crochet which may be had at
| a trifing cost. and when combined with
! sheer material and fine val insertions
| these heavier cotton laces show up in
| handsome effect.
Crochet loops and buttons are also used
| this season, and some of the crochet
buttons are SO large that they must be
removed when the shirt waist is laun-
dered. The really high-cIass shirt waist
never buttons under q fly material. This
| method Is employed only In the cheaper
waists, where few cheap buttons are
used. Expensive blouses have small but
! tons set closely together down the back
and exquisitely worked buttonholes done
! directly on the edge of the blouse. Tiny
| buttons and loops are also provided at the
! back of the coiar and at the edges of the
cuffs. In these dainty touches and in the
| exquisite f1neness Of fabric one recognizes
| the Paris made or Paris copied shirt waist.
/ Great care should be taken also to have
! the collar of the blouse If high stock
Is preferred to the Dutch neck effect.
most carefully fitted. SO that the back
| will neither lap too far or gap open
| in unsightly manner between the tiny
buttons. II Tie ready-made blouse is a
trife too big in the collar. small pleats
may be set in by hand at the back, run
ming four inches or SO down On the back
of the waist at place where the pat
tern of trimming will not be spoiled.
and under these small pleats in the col
lar may be sewed the featherbone sup