Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-08-13

these deep religieuse collars. to which are
attached the full, gathered breadths
which form the body of the mantle. From
the knee down these full breadths are
confined under a deep. straight band of
cerise velvet, and, the four buttons which
fasten the yoke are of the velvet with
loops of cerise satin in lieu of button
holes.
BY Redfern is another stunning relig-
ieuse mantle which is SO intricate and
involved in cut that 1t is hard to de-
scribe. Briefly, there is a straight, full
coat Of tucked black chiffon hung over
brilliant royal blue satin, the coat having
seamless cut on the shoulder with
straight wide sleeves. Over the back of
this black and blue chiffon coat hangs a
full mantle Of black satin which is at
tached straight across from neck to
wrists as though the wearer had stretch
ed out her arms and the breadths of satin
had merely been hung across and sewed
to the outer edge OF the sleeves When
the arms are dropped the satin, of course,
falls in most exquisitely graceful lines.
The satin back falls loosely over the chif-
fon coat to within six incnes of the feet,
where It Is draped under to form baggy
festoons.. Over the whole at the top is
laid fat religieuse collar made or folds
of the satin with big buttons of royal
blue velvet having black satin centers
and black satin loops for fastening. The
whole wrap, while 1t entirely covers the
frock, is delightfully."- light and supple and
may be caught up IN dozen graceful
ways.
It must be something of trick to ar
range these voluminous wraps and man.
ties so that while fitting closely over the
shoulder and outlining to perfection the
lines of shoulder and arm the material
will hang in ample folds below. An effect
of clumsiness must also be avoided and
the wrap must be kept as light as pos
sible This is accomplished by the ma
terials used. Liberty satfns and ch1nons
weigh but a trifie even when many yards
are used, the fabrics being draped with
seeming capelessness. but really with con-
summate skill. SO that all the wearer's
best points will be accentuated by the
softly falling folds.
4 satin wrap which has this graceful
fall from the shoulders into full folds at
the foot is illustrated among today's pho
tographs. This wrap is made of black
satin. and the light border Is OF white
straight stole of the yelled white satin
covered with a soutache embroidery is set
at either side of the front OF the wrap
and makes this portion hang in straight,
severe lines to the feet, while the back
flows in undulating ripples into the heavy
train.
Another paradox, in this season of abb
breviated frocks and ankle-length skirts,
is the wrap having train at the back.
This train is lifted when one crosses the
pavement to step into motor or broug-
ham, but indoors it sweeps the carpet
and gives the draped wrap the dignity
and grace whichAt needs, and which
garment chopped off at the floor length
never possesses.
Only the very handsomest grades Of
satin may be employed for the softly
draped nantes. Cheap, stiff satin Is
abominable when used in would-be draped
effect, and it is far wiser to have ones
mantle Of rich wool material-if satin
cannot be afforded-than to attempt a
rich effect with a poor material. There
are new wool-backed satins which are as
warm as any serge or hOmespun fabric,
and many of the autumn street suits are
being turned out in this wool-backed
satin, which tailors as cleverly and cor
rectly as wool itself
The French dressmaker knows just
where to put the scrap of oriental en-
broidery to produce telling effect, and
the French wraps often show bits of en-
broidery and other like trimming set on
as though they had been added as an
afterthought but an inspired after
thought for all that. Gold and silver
and one may have as much embroidery as
one can afford-across the back as we'll as
around the neck and down the front; or
merely just touch at the front of the
collar. Then there are the tassels, Won
derful things, with slides slipped over the
long cords for miladi to twist and tumble
with as she talks to you. And the but
tons! hundred francs worth of but
tons is not at all lavish supply for
smart evening wrap.
But it is the Innings that go straight
to the feminine heart, and more evening
wraps are sold because Of their delectable
Innings than mere man ever dreams of.
Often chiffon is dropped over the satin
lining with an indescribably soft and
shimmering effect, and as every woman
knows the knowledge of a chiffon lining
is much like the knowledge of silk stock
ings. No one may see 1t and no one but