The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-08-28
AMERICAN Sins IN DRESS
NEH YORk WOVEN As SEEN
M 4 FRENCH CRITIC
D~c Jared To Fan short sf Perfection Be-
raase 90 slarGnr-s IN the Detaii- Or
Their Attire SSme Commen Faults
The Ways of women In Europe.


The Ways of women In Europe. |
In a New York hotel there IL a room |
oddly fitted up with mirrors. The tenant /
~ a French American woman on whose
card il engraved her name and the line
Pupil Of Polaire" Sin" gives lessons at
So much AN hour. but abe also grants in !
terviews To her customers for money I
The woman who reeds a hint in matters
Of drOss can go To her and l'e taught
i knew there was field for me in this
business right here ia New York she
saws. hut have been amazed at the
( rayIditv 81 my own success. >ou Am"ri-
can women arr, quick 10 So. the beautiful
, in ANYTHING
Il hav" opened up this shop or private
/ lecture room Ia show and To tell women
why they are plain IN spite 10 the money
/ they spend NV first advice To IN"
/ woman who enters NV shop IL 20 forget
| feathers IL isn't that the feathers ar"
! tad, but II is because they ar, SO sla"kly
Worn And bringing In ia. word slack
/ carries me at once 10 IN" very heart OF
the difficulty with the American woman.
| -Polairr recognized il when she criti-
Cised the American woman: Bernhardt
murmur"d IL many times To her friends;
| Mer"d. discovered u in her first trip To
the American colony IN Paris and all IN"
other French celebrities have mentioned
In II il that the American woman -
| slaCh'
Yet how can the American woman help
being slack II is not her fault She IL
beautiful. charming And It IL this very
thing. namely the gift 81 beauty, which
brings about her r'Iinstion. She over
dresses or dresses too often, and that
CAUSES her To be SLACK
A lady came in here wearing hat on
which there were willow plumcs Tn"
hat was riotous dancing. wild with them
Vow these willows were delightful To the
eve. or they would have been had they
been IN good shape But To keep them in
perfect order in the New York climate
would have required tho services 81
mlliner. maid and az least one good
worker IN willow feathers
Tho lady wore "A hand embroidered
American shirtwaist II was delightful
90 the eye-unth she turned around
-Oo into the first fashionable dining
room Won see. or better still into the first
fashionable hotel AZ the luncheon hour
when women are coming in and removing
their wraps They are CARRIED in that
"
gerie waist and the separate skirt
Take note Get ont your memoran-
dunn pad .Iot down the number Of
waists that ara correct IN detail Ask
| Yourself these questions
DOES that skirt shirk connection with
the waist
What ar" the diplomatic relations be-
tween tho belt and the skirt
DO tho waist and the skirt meet invisi-
( hlv and ~ the meeting made harrnoniously
beautiful hv a belt that covers that which
| ought not tn ho displayed to the public?
-Is the waist fully huttoned down the
! back
DO the buttons ht the huttonholes or
has tho laundress sue ceeded in making
them unfit for each other'
DO the buttons wabble on their fasten-
,ngs or are they securely mooreds
How about tho stock? Il u hooked
s,raich, or crooked and bv what and how
and whore ~ " fastened
And the shoulders. Have they been
ironed - that thev look alike
And the lace L. II fun 81 broken
threads and does the whole thing suggest
a structure half gone To RUM
The trnubI. with ia IL that We ara
beautiful but we try to do too much
| had a pupil who bought ten beautiful
Ingeri. waists IN Pans They were
dreams ana sh. wore fresh one every
day Vet IN ten days I never saw her look
chic There was always little some
| thing the matter with her blouse
The American woman ~ gifted with
Ioy.liues- II feature and she would toe
exquisite were II not for certain national
faults A. | might say. -ho il perfect
Her shoes are usually pretty good
They are trim and they are tied with big
fresh bows and they arp polished But
in how many instances do they accord
with the costumes with which they are
worn The american woman when Eh.
dresses iIp puts on her newest pair 81 boots
and shs. isn't asking whether they 60 well
with her costume or not
That il one 81 the faults Of American
dress aud particularly 81 New York dress
II ~ an unwritten gospel with women
here that they must wear whatever ~
new no matter how u goes with the other
things \ new hat must be donned aim
plv G.causa IL IL new hat: a new pair
~ shoas takes precedence over pair
that matches or accords: a new parasOl
has right of way over one that harmonizes
+ once asked an English lady how she
cont rived always Ia be - exquisite Her
reply set me thinking ! pet NV clothes,
said she
she meant that che put them 20 rec,
properly sh" got them mp next morning
tpef INES ana I'I 1uetU w l'T 'ne
day -he fed them bits Of lac" and tape
and buttons aud thread. all the things
that clothes consume. aud - sh" kept
them vigorous
i don't think Polsire meant that the
American woman ~ slack IN just the way
IN which Won Use the word In this country
She meant partly that she IN eStrava-
CANT and shall saw u2 "a little hit indo-
lent II il easier To buy something new
than TO reform the old This trick Of
| uaN and throwing n the old
IL du. NOR. 10 a spirit Of adventure than
to actual lRziness on her part But II IL
"A mi-directed spirit
~Inla-s American women are very
rich a French woman once said tn me.
they ara very ordinary IN dres- II wealthy
, they make a zplurgs hut the woman on
!. nm averag" income ~ very mediocre
, I told her that medOcrity was the
oH. thing which the American woman
IrIdad herself ON not po~ae--lng She
WINS smart n anything
, Then the Partisan explained the mat
ter 10 m" went three seasons with one