davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
MAKING POCKETS in BOYS
KNICKERS NOT DIFFICULT
Hpes Lads need not go Pocketess when Garments are
homemade Full Directions and Diagrams

this undertaking Is given. and from Il
must be Cut two pieces ol cloth and
three pieces "a liwlng BOYS clothing
always laps. III closing, from lcit ,oI
right
The position oi She h'p-pockei is indi
Gated IN the paIsern by periorahons
There is also 3 dart al lhe top OF each
back portion The perioratioos uRst hcI
transferred 90 tie cloth by masking
chalk mark through each then, when
the pattern Is removed go over these
chalk dois wuh ,allai, tac6S that wll
aarh III. oa,line oi the darg-Scam GA
10th nicces Marl the pocket position
4, ma same ilalc Both darts ave y bc
taken p,. hui ihc pocket is made N The
firh. side only SineA ine darts and
press the seam open, though L da not
advise eating tee dafl Il is easy to
nfes, tie seam opyn without Iu q
risee 81 the same cloth an inch aud one
iaali wA.g ard enc incb longer than The
marked ici,g,h iar the pocket lay Il
an the outside OF the right hand back
noliion. over the pocket mark From
( the underSide make a hne OF baSting
stitches aleng the pockci.mark ard
lshroagh beth pieces ol cloth To the
undsrside haste piece OF canvas OF
corresponding size and ia the same posl
,ian. From the outside make a row Of
lmachine stitching a, each SIDE Of the
! markinc hasiing and IS close 20 il a'
| possikle-not more than one'elghth q
an inth The stitching is made A ,h'
! sides only. not across the ends. Tie iht
srds oi The threads securely cut alors
the marking line with a pair Of sharl
sc,seors ard push through the openins
So made Tire Applied piece oi cloth. al
loving a wel,-edge Of L 70 extend be
vnnd the stitching line a. each edge q
lihc porketsopcnIug Basic closely I.
/ hold the Cloih ia place, and press il well
Take a piece oi drilling five inches Wild
! and Zen tnchcS hong. on enc end bass
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

edges OF the drilling pocket and stitch
together through the two toid-edges.
leaving the raw edges inside the pocket.
Stitch the inside leg seams and press
them open. Join the two leg sections
together By scanning from the notch at
the lower edge ol the front facing % the
waist al Tie back. Press the seam omen,
and. on The inside. baste 4 strip OF tape
or OF lining over The preSsed-open sean.
then from The outside make row OF
stitching at each side OF the seam.
Cut tie belt. OF drilling. marking the
positions Tor the bulionhole>. Fold ihc
belt leugiliwise ilreugh the center turn
under the raw edge and bssie together
tafaagn The lold-edges. making tlic belt
loable with the seams inside Face the
top of the knitksTs with piece OF lining
material. l-si the facing extend 10 the
edge ol ghe uuderlsp on ,he right front.
hri m the left slip ii undeT the edge OF
tie flcing. Measure Tic h<ls 10 the IN
side OF The waist me OF the knlckerS,
and observe that the marks for the but-
tonholes come IN the correct places. On
the right front. but.onhole should BE-
even with the seam that joins the under
lap 10 the front portion The fifth but
sonhole should be even with the center
back seam. The ready-nlsde kriickers
fssten al the front OF the waist with a
wide hook and eye-a kind sold for the
purpose-although the so-called seal.
hooks. used Tor closing fur garments
may Be used. Ii either is difficult tc
get. the closing may be made with but
ton and huttonhcle. The latter worked IN
the end Of the bet. Wien the hook !:
used /, is sewed between the belt and
the outside. leaving only the hook par
extended beyond the cloth The ey:
portion < inserted in the seam that loin'
the underlap to the right-frcnt, the sean
being ripped space for that purpose
The closing will look better 7 the ems
Of the bel, on the left side be faced viii
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

THIS Stitching Gnishe. SO oc,,sc. o~er
;re and also hold ne fTa cat, af
strin h driline maias i rocket I
inches sauase
III the 1oth Is ac. 1csv stoet l1
t,n,,e IF ~, i.nielers .,,,v IL ..l
Ln;ne os,n,,4l rf a. ~, +~
XII r ,bis n,.t nfe...'-, 4 ..,sil .t,..
- "a l,,,,,,a sho,ll IL is4s..l III
.,a,cb u, eggh nj s., ts.sr ...,ia.r
!. stn,,n IN ,h,. lei-.f-.,,,t IS ,}.s tr
ilm>,ra,jao lere III, !, @ha.,n is
f,'.,n, n ,,b;rh ~, i,,.t,n',ei.s a,-
re wS-L..d a,d ,l,, f,..,,,.ois., ef linr
~, n9s, IL sra,nsd ,r n ..;n,b 4
Therr ye-e 49, = Is. III +, i;s
'nJ Nya - ,,afb n"sss III IN. #, III
MAN. - th.. sAc. N ,fs ,is.H ssri,ts
,nd i,g;ns !, ,s,fb a.. ....s,.b +, h,.A cav
resnor,l.n, c,;.1. se'u x, ,he edsN
iron, ,hs tno 81 ,hs ~e-,sg Il ,i ao.c1
Tn,n H. 6n1ne N,., ,s..tse .s al,
v,one s,5. s.l ha. a r84
n,. x, ~. ls,,,,. .',... h., ns !.
elne, g,r,oesr.,..S.s Il, .sa.- i.a.,-l
! Ss,sb / N il,- 4,
Ia nlsre ia a.. rtt rs,.b,.t M
rnsv M v.o,lErl ;a f.ss
!. ao,i;e,i IN tt
r;ebi fr6n, 5b A, ..t
Il TMs rnlerign Is aaS
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
tsf
CAPE CLOAKS
TO REAPPEAR
|Moire and Bengaline will Ger.
tainly be Used in Spring /
Coats

effects. Such scarf is illustrated on
this page. There il no fitting or shaping, !,
Just length CASUALLY about three yards)x
of the chosen material in full width.
Smaller scarfs Of satin with edging and
lengthwise stripes of marabout or fur
are worn as neckpieces, and have large,
fiat muffs to match. A very pretty form
Of net scarf has the ends decorated with
simple geometrical sort OF design
worked in coarse chain stitch with EN-
broidery silk; other scarfs are made OF
alternate rows Of ribbon and lace. Al
form of scarf that may be arranged as 4
unique dress garniture is divided in half
and each end is gathered into the endl
Of band that is about FIVE inches wide
and eight inches long This band is OF
some handsome trimming or OF the
scarf material embroidered or braided.
There are several ways TO arrange it on
The waist One is to place the narrow
band at the front, carry the scarf ends
back under the arms, cross them at the
back and bring them over the shoulders
to the front again, where they should fe
slipped under the front part of the scart
y
down line. The arrangement might be
reversed. and in either case a novel,
Jacket sort OF arrangement would re-
suit.
Coats will grow shorter, as is TO be
expected for spring and evidenced by
some exceedingly early models, but It
seems more than probable that the long,
straight cape cloaks, so well liked this
autumn. will reappear. for time at
least Moire and bengaline have been
so successfully used for coats that they
are rather a certainty for the spring. a
very limited trial was made this fall OF
tailored coat and skirt suits of foulard
silk They were so very successful that
we may expect to hear more OF them.
Foulard and the Rajah weaves own the
field for any sort OF dress suit as the
days grow warmer There are still
many cold days TO come, however, and
foulards and Rajahs need not come into
the story yet, except that anyone with
the comforting knowledge that she has
one or the other hanging safely and
comfortably away may bear II IN mind
for possible re-devclop;nent Of some
model that may attract. In woolcns Tor
pring the tendency is toward rougher
surfaces, but for general wear serge,
with hard rather than soft cheviot
finish is to be preferred. and these, with
panamas and mofair. will be BY no
means neglected among the materials OF
moderate price Navy blue and black
continue TO he the most popular colors,
and for spring gray and gray effects are
promised
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
ELASTIC IN HENS OF LEGS
MUST NOT BE TOO TIGHT
Be Careful to see that Marks for the Buttonhoes come
in the Correct Places

the cloth, or lining the same color, to
avoid showing line OF white drilling.
The facing nj the top Of the knickers
may be made wide enough to extend be
low the belt. and in that case il viii
cover the canvas and make 4 neat ia
side finish for the work on the lir-
pocket Ii the facing is cnk the width
of the helt. the canvas and pocket-.a3
should be trimmed and neatly over
handed Illustration III shows the in-
side finish with the narrow faciuy.
Make a line OF machine stitching, htEa
the outside. al the lower edge OF the
belt. The belt map be lacked to the
facing between the buttonholes, and the
facing q, the lsit-fron, should be siui-
larly tackled, Hem the lower end OF each
trousers leg aud insert a piece OF Gar
elastic The hem Have the elastic tight
enough 10 avoid slipping down. but not
sufficiently tight 10 interfere with cif-
culatiou. Ii the knickcrbockers are made
OF galasea. brown Holland or other ma
terial that will be laundered. the elastic
must be removed before the kniekcrs
are tuhbcd. TO facilitate replacing,
GOOD plan will be 20 sew hook on one
end and an eye on the other OF the
elastic. The knickcrs may be gathered
into band to button below the knee
The band should te made long enough
to lap at least an inck, and the leg seam
on the outside should be lett opcn; per-
hsps two inches make the banded open.
ing large enough for the foot to sin
through. The band is made double and
about three quarters OF an inch wide
when finished The lower edge Of each
/ knicker leg Il gathered. and the edge
slipped between the two fold,tdres cf
THE taed, which "a then Stitched,
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

a piece OF the cloth i've inches wide and
abou, one inch deep 10 serve as a lac
ing to the top ef the pocket, that the
drilling may not show through the
pocket opening Basic the uniaeed cnd
To the lower edge OF the pockct-opeaing
and sulrh from The outside, on a linc
with the row OF hastings then basic the
faced end (the facing toward the cloth
of the trouScsS1 10 the upper edge et
the pockct-opeulng. and make A CORE
spending sow ol stitching on that side,
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
Jannarr thc Tnrnlng Point

This il probably the one month in tits
wear when fashions lecelKe least astenv
tion, yet il i the turning point, We rliehU
shy. oi the fashion year February
brings Sisplass OF spring gnd summer
matte als, and the models iof their
making-up are already heing prepared
Fashion designers hive n iopsl tnrNy
world. where fur models are fitted and
perfected IN july and dimi,ies and or
CANDIES grow into gewrs with equal
indifference 70 snow and lee Lighter
fabrics viii require appropriate treat
mcnt. and tunics and over dfaperies real
and simulated, may be expected. rria-
cess lines havr held in favor SO bravclY
that We mus; believe they will continue
into the sprinr. even though modified IN
form. From the princess vogue has de.
veioped a ,esivsl 81 the Jersey waist Of
twciity-ti,e YEARS ago These aye de-.
velopcd II Jersey cloth, that may now
be bought hy the yard or IN. any dress
fabric Another adaptation OF the Jersey
or Middle Ages form is the Univer
sisy at COED dress. that is having the
greatest possible popularity for giris %
twenty and under, The waist is really
midds'S blouse with Slight shaping
al the waist and The lower par, worn
outside al The skirt. Which is usualL
plai,rd md attached 10 a yoke The
skirt portion IS frequently shown al
plaid material a;ld iht alouSe Of plan
color
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
Huge gcarfs Popular

The long coat and the long cloak have
kept securely in favor The popularity
of the loose. untitled cape cloak, almost
a huge scarf in fact, has been BIT in
consistent when worn with the closely
fitted princess gowns. but there is no
question of the popularity OF the scarf in
every size and material In heavy satin
or satin faced cloth. edged on all fonr
sides with band OF marahout. an en-
veloping wrap for evening wear is pro
duccd. capable OF most graceful drapcry
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

tA&siNH sVVAsN 20 RtVN"h AN"
efal idea illas the making OK
n the pockets IN boys sud men
- clothing is mysterious pro-
cess. urfathonlabc l,y tHs amateur be
canse oi this mistaken n0iyou | have
been told that some unhappy small llaSs
are doomed 10 mckc,ly>s caadlan
when their knockers are 81 home maac,
Such Naie oi aiiaigs demands instant
remedy. and Illustrated proof that pal
ring N tho pocket, Is really > supple
snasler The hip pocket migti Ne SPARED.
lut The ssl!e pocAeiS -HcNrf Ihe h 81
illuAfaliea shauS how these are pre-
pared pnrag \ the hest materiaE ieF
fheSe pockets. As ,.ley need ie Is trtsg
A psece ahosn ten inches Sanafc ls sulard
IL hall, forming pacSet hve lpcses
Wide aud tea inches leee la ae "a
these ta each ifou scsAnaa 81 thc Nntrk-
crS and tfia The cJAss i0 thc sStne
shape 4 The elalh c.igs wi,ich uSpslh
slopes IN = ttise ieN ard the waist linc
and make at the edSc lhe un.thes fhsl
,ndiea,e the length 81 tire pcvkci -Npen-
ms, The loNer edge may be leu
straight or ono cnFner WAY ee rounded
as shown IN thr illustration L The hip.
pockr, &c mace. X should bc inserted Il
thef ighg,hsad back pnrtior hctoys ths
Is Joined ~ any other IN iae,, that y
The solsftinn 81 he onls ditfeulilss y
trousers making g--ihe order oi prcceaars
( ihe hip potkei Is placed hssi then n
fasink on ,hc frgnfs. next The SD
pctkcts. fher the outside lex seams fol
iowsnr these the inside ley seams the
the sfstn jeining the twe ltg 'ectlen
ond finally ths iop facing. the Mli an'
M lower enS IT each Les For bows @
tithl years and over sht trousers ar
oknAilv made 10 button down the front
with a. undertaking tin wh,ch button
holes are wofkSdl On the left side an
w nnderlap 10 which the hultons az
n irtF fesnf 4 ~sssera q
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

,ts,ioa piscc on tbs back portion OF
ANSeg. making the fold edge on a
i.. GNa tie Stitching .ne OF the leg
saa pll hs made three ciSailiS %
,.a sid. ihs faW edge oi iias Sca;'l
sii. sex ~, edge ~ place aid
asA .lc edge 81 the saCmg piecc
tn5s inside ihe pocket Raste
r3 roti 'he pocNel notch io
Ae Fcra both raw edges
oa4-d the ifont in orier
s~-sszm eject OF the outside.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

rn, c.ion. having .thc cloth facing
aea;a The otisidg Of the cloth and rum
sing The seam from the upper 70 the
lare~ nolch Turn the poekel over 10
warA tn iaide caste, then stitch the
'o'd eSee trTn under a seam on the
e.Ac. s,o.e- cdse and slip il under the
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

difference is that the shirt-waist sleeve
is not used, something Of more dress Ell
feet being substituted. Usually it takes
the form of a fitted sleeve with hori-
zontal tucks, in size from one-eighth to
one-half an inch, and in any sort Of
grouping choice may suggest. Bands of
cloth and soutache braiding trim these
waists, and the entire color scheme is
in one and matches the skirt The
waists are lined throughout with white
net. in plain blouse shape, the object
being greater strength and wearing
quality. Waists of ,affeta and OF mes
saline are also being shown in simple
models and with rather full bralding de
signs applied to the front. strongly sug-
gcstive OF the embroidery on lingerie
waists.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

Oh. come. lets all be poets!
What though we cannot rhymef
'Tis easy when We know its
Just singing all the time.
Just sounding on the tabor
God places in our hearts.
And taking to our neighbor
The message He imparts.
JoHN KENpRIcK BANGS.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
s.mplicity Of Line

Early Spring models IN iaiier4d wear
show simplicity 81 line together with
elaboration ni decoration On the grace
FIJI Snl, ~ "dcal rose htoadeleth IN lle
picture the branling al soustache does
no, * All Interfere with The eleganl siA
i,liei,y ot iine.
Neyy bfide,like Is the dainty irocN
ci white Satin meteor, with dgap.d b.
dice and overSkirt in graceful effect as
shown N The illuAralian Tie feature
oi the little dles Il The White lace
scarf, draped over the shoulders IN dcha
ctlcet and. confined Al The WAIST undeH
pearl clasp, falling ii sash ends over
tht skirt
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
New Spring Toulards

: As rich As hrocades afe the ioalafds
lyine made ip ior Palm Beach and other
southern wear during The carly monihs
A charming model " gfayg green ionlafd
Il Illustrated here, The bodice having 4
trimming oE silver embroidered S,adlas
oyct gfcen satin and the little yoke hcms
nt silver ne, over green chiffon. The
green leotd oEnamrnt across the bust
suggests the Egyptian winged hawk
4 motif
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

the fact that al women do not dress
alike. Even so. "a the one piece princess
season, there have hcen separate waists
and Skirts. and the combination is grow
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13
SHORT COATS
ARE REVIVED
Latest Swing of Fashions In
dicates that Lengthy Gar
ments arc Doomed
rr1HAT The very long coat /

KTylTAT the very long coat (!
doomed seems "a be the uni
versal opinion Of ialors aed
dressmakcrs now The latest
news from Paris is to the effect thar
short coats arc coming into their own
once more. The smart little travelling
sal, shown en this page Nerifcs The
promise aneut shorter coats II was
sent over from the French fashion cap.
.Nli ior Spring bride This model, oi
rrscda green mohair. shows the Iona
tfout opening now IN vogue, the iaStea
INK heing arranged with one button At
The vast
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

wads oNhcavv. ramd-mcsh net or chit
fol c'nth. aud aut pattern suitable for a
Yel of liacn, madras or other wash
1hs wgic-c r,aY be used. The only
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

ing in favor rapidly The wai-t q b
sure. should match the skirt IN co.or hui
the materials ior selection are nr1v
What is proclaimed lls tailored wals' =
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

.d sr.ch srom the outside making the
'rt.ws N apparent continuation of
.issg N sse .ront edge Of ihr pccket-
sr,pgirx Maze I similar few - stitch
ins lfom fi,- up.'sv rcckrt notch to the
Mai Iaen ~ : seAri "a tie saQoinSa
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-01-13

HTv HERE seems 10 prevail q gen
efai idea ,llag the making ot
n the fuskel, IN boys sud men
fi.siifar IL 1 NnretgvtHils srs-
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1910-03-11
BUSY FRATERNAL
PROGRAMS KEEP
Ne MBERS GOING
Damascus COmmandery COnfers
Honors-ROyal NeighbOrs
Ready for Reception.

Damascus C~ommandery, knights
Templar, at the stated conclave last
night at ISL Broad street conferred the
orders of the Temple m Malta upon
several candidates. The commandery
has also perfected arrangements for
attending the fftieth anniversary of
the knights Templar of New Jersey in
Trenton on May 9 and 10.
1t will be a big affair in Templar-
dom and the program will include a
parade, banquet and public installation
of grand encampment officers.
Past Grand Commander |, Layton
Register, of Camden, will preside at
he banquet on May 9.
Among the speakers will be Most
+ yorshipful Grand Master j. Clarence
Conover, of Freehold, representing the
Masonic fraternity; Grand Commander
the Rev. Henry w. Rugg, of Rhode
Island: Right Eminent Grand Com
mander Charles A. Mohr, of West Ho-
boken; Grand High Priest Samuel CT.
Ruderow, of Camden, of the Royal Arch
Masons; former Governor Stokes, of
Olivet Commandery, Millville, and
Eminent Templar Charles J. Hazard, of
Hightstown. On the morning of May
10 grand officers will be elected, fol-
lowed by the parade, and public in
stallation in the evening. Among those
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1910-03-11
WIFE MOURNED AS DEAD
WALKS INTO HIS STORE.
Trenton Man jailed for Bigamy
by Returning Spouse.

TRENTON, March 11.-Learning
from a friend that his wife was dead,
James Bart, of this city, decided to try
matrimony again, his choice this time
being Mrs. Lillian Williams, a widow,
and his boarding mistress. The we'd
ding took place last fall. Consequently
Bart was amazed yesterday afternoon
when his former and, as he thought,
deceased wife walked into his place of
employment and announced, Jim Bart,
1 hear you've one n got married
again. I'm going to e you to jail"
The first Mrs. Bart vas as good as
her word, for it was only a short time
later that Bart was arrested He was
given a hearing before Justice of the
Peace Mills and was held for the action
of the grand jury. Bart married his
first wife more than a dozen years ago
n lived with her until about four
years ago, when, he says, she left him
and went to Philadelphia.
He did not hear from her again until
a friend told him that she vas dead.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1910-03-11
MINISTER KILLED BY CARS
AT TRENTON JUNCTION.
Methodist Clergyman Was a
Patient in Newark SanatOrium.

TRENTON, March 10.-The Rev.
George c. Boswell, a Methodist clergy
mar of Meriden, Conn, was instantly
killed yesterday by a passenger train
on the Philadelphia and Reading road
at Trenton Junction.
1t is not known whether the man fell
or jumped from the train. His ticket
showed that he was en- route from Phil
adelphia to Plainfleld. He had ais in
his pocket the coupon of a railroad
ticket to Freehold n a rebate check
to Trenton.
1t is believed hat he wen to Phila-
delphia from Freehold. A letter in his
possession showed that he had been
taking electrical treatment in a sanato-
rum in Newark.
Another letter stated that his mother
is very i'll, but 1t did not say where she
was. The deceased was about AZ years
Of age. The body was taken to Poulson
& Coleman's morgue, this city, to be
held until relatives can be notified.
Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916, 1910-03-11
NORMANDY PARK MAY BE
INCORPORATED AS BOROUGH.

MORRISTOWN, March 11.-Another
scheme for the Incorporation of a bor-
ough to be called Normandy Park has
been announced. John d. Garfield has
stated that he will ask the Legislature
to pass a bill incorporating all the ter
ritory of the present Morris township
from Whippany road to James street.
The original scheme of Incorporating
Normandy Heights doubtless received
it's inspiration from the fact that that
section. one of the wealthiest in Morris
township having ratables of over $1,000
900, had no roads to care for by the
township and only eight or ten chill
tren to send to a. public school. Every
road in the section, with the exception
of Columbia road, is a private thor
ughfare, and has never been dedicated
to the use of the public.
Edward x. Mills is against incorpora-
ton, and he favors annexation by Nor
ristown.