Daily Arizona silver belt., 1910-04-03
Pads and Fashions
By Florence Fairbanks

in at the ankles are so eccentric a type that it is really remarkable they have found so much favor. Nevertheless, their vogue is so undeniable that dress makers are cheerfully endeavoring to adapt them to the figures of their clien- tele. The best notifications of the ex- ceedingly bizarre original models are seen in those skirts which combine two materials, the heavier for the tunic and the lighter for the underskirt, which is arranged to form fanlike folds below the knees.
 The type of skirt which arouses most discussion is the one which is gather ed into the belt A suggestion of full ness at the wastline scares the average American woman nearly into mysteries. She wants to be in line with French modes, but they must be adapted to her figure, for she simply will not per mt the appearance of being fat.
 There is general feeling among tail ors and dressmakers that the Turko- Russian modes are being Overdone, and while both classes of sartorial artists will continue to turn out the belted and
 
 come, wise women, ordering their spring costumes, will do well to avoid all ex- tremes and content themselves with American adaptations of the French styles.
 However, one question, at least, in regard to skirts has been definitely set tied. Street suits will have quite long skirts, while house gowns will have long trains, gathered of box-plaited into the waistband unless sharply gored.
 As to materials for spring street cos tunes it may be said that closely woven worsteds have been relegated to the rear ranks in favor of vast line of silken materials, any of which will ans- wer for mid season service, since a thick interlining in the coat, and jersey cloth knickerbockers beneath the skirt add sufficient warmth to both garments with out in the least altering the symmetry of their lines.
 Tussahs, which are enjoying tre- mendous vogue as material for tailor made suits, are produced in solid coors and in two-tones of both plain and diag- onal weaves. Silk poplin and satin messalines show the wide vale and moire effects, now held in such high esteem, and in shantungs are to be found ribbed and watered surfaces. While all of these lightweight yet close ly woven silken fabrics are, brought out in all the choice shades, the satin finished shantungs include such typi- cally French colOrings as golden brown, heliotrope and ashes of roses, but quite the newest thing in this fashionable sulting has deep, self -colored border in Greek key design.
 Particularly smart are the peplum robes which include about two wards of widely bordered material of palm leaf design in dull shades of green, vel low, blue and red, cleverly intermingled, while the remainder of the dress pat tern is in one of the fashionable street cOlors. Foulards, which many women regularly include in their spring ward robe, are prettiest of all in peplum pat terms, and so inconspicuous that while quite smart enough for an afternoon at home or for street use with sepa- rate coat, are not inappropriate for morning wear at any fashionable Easter week resort. Many of these foulards and soft silks are of exceedingly dark hue and large proportion of them are all black or of black bordered or trimmed with touch of color. For street costumes of this class silk voile will be extensively used during the late spring and throughout the summer, and when not entirely black they will be made up over white or cOlored satin, embroidered or braided with the shade of the lining.
 The return of the belt to the normal waist line has given a renewed impetus to the blouse. It is again in evidence, and distinctive in stlye. A glance at the Viennese models shows many of | these charming separate blOuses in col. ored chiffon elabOrately trimmed with | gold and silver embrOideries, or with | Iaces studded with imitation stones to match the tone of the accompanying | skirt. They are most fascinating for afternoon wear, and are generally | collarless and short of sleeve. The chif- | fon or chiffon cloth falls fichu-like from the shoulder over the bust, and a wide iraped belt confines the waist, although sometimes daringly broad leather belt loes duty.
 It is to be expected that soft straws will rule in tomorrow 's display of East er millinery. The flexible braids most II readily lend themselves to the fancies 'f the hour, which undeniably tend to- ward abrupt turns and twists calculated % overtax the endurance of any save veaves of the most reliable character Many of the newest and smartest look ng shapes do not call for much in the way of trimming. This is especially marked in the case of the turbans i'm ported from Paris within the past week. Some of these are shaped almost pre- isely like Turkish head dress and ap- 'arently are loosely bound about the rown of the head. Usually they are yuiltless of ribbon, velvet or feather but there is always a spray f flowers or a maline chou at the left ide of the brim. So closely d6 these urbans fit and so far down upon the oiffure are they placed that only a ew hatpins are required to hold them n, position, Aigrettes were never so large or so xtensively employed as they are on he millinery of the present spring. fortunately for the woman of limited leanS not all of these aiprettpS are