The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1910-01-21
TENDENCY
Toward Narrowing The ShOul-
der, FIattGRing The Bust
And Broadening The Waist
Has Its Influence
Upon The Silhouette In New
York City
bul Ully III A very fcW
Cases However
Some Of The Latest Styles
From The Metropolis
(By Florence Fairbanks)

NOW 1OrK, Jan. zU.-Ine FTencn
tendency toward narrowing the
shoulders, flattening the bust and
broadening the waist has its influ-
ence upon the silhouette here, but
only in few comparatively few cases,
as the majority of the well-dressed
women in this country have refused
to adopt extreme models along that
line. American dressmakers say
there has been much protest against
the pinched in shoulder line, and
that in copying or altering French
models they have usually been asked
to devise some way of widening the
shoulders.
A familiar way of achieving this
narrow line without the awkward
narrowing of seams on the shoulder
is the cutting of shoulder and sleeve
or sleeve cap in one so that the line
is unbroken, though there is no ex-
tending fulness at the shoulder
point. This compromise has resulted
in much modified version of the
Japanese sleeve, the Wilderness of the
Japanese armhole being in most cas-,
es eliminated, the sleeve being made
comparatively close, but che unbrok-
en- line and slight drapory movement
around the armhole being retained.
The advent of the short coat, the
belted blouse, the girdled bodice and
the more closely fittsd costume will
help to bring the silhouette back to
better proportions. The very smart
est of the late season costume in
Paris are unquestionably shortened
iera this tendency is emphasized, as
is the blouse idea. Betting of some
employment of braiding giving much
the same effect as betting Is also
noticeable upon a considerable pro-
portion of these costumes for the
South, which, while only tentative
guesses at the modes that spring will
bring forth, do show what the auth
oritative French makers consider
spring probabilities.
The bodice and skirt arrange
ments which are In the majority just
now, though usually the two are at.
tached to each other under the girdle
30 that the frock Is to all intents and
purposes an one-piece affair, are sc
much easily handled than the genuine
one-piece designs and the home dress
maker will be thankful for their re-
turn. OF course, there are still many
models draped all in one piece, and
tunic arrangements which present 9
continuous line from belt to knees OF
lower; but the girdled model is iI
its own way quite as modish and {
large percentage of the latest models
from the great French houses are o.
this type. Therefore this easier ar
raDgement may be resorted to with
out the feeling that it involves de
parture from che accepted lines.
1t is true that only an artist coult
successfully achieve many of thu
models from the famous makers II
Paris, but on the other hand ther,
has seldc.c been time when smart
ness could be achieved with less in
sp'red ability on the part of the MAX
er, providing the woman ordering tn
frock has taste, fine sense of colo
and thorough understanding of tn
limitations of her figure.
Among the models displayed b.
one fashionable shop Is froc
of mousssline de sole turned out b
ore of the famous Partisan design
ers. The under-robe is of the plai
mcussellne, the corsage and over
skirt are of mousseline Of the sam
colors; sprinkled with little gol
paillettes; but there are innumbei
abe sheer materials which might b
used for the same model. A sati
under robe and overdress of mousse
line or chiffon ON any sheer soft stu
would work out well In this model
and for that matter the whole froc
may be of the one sheer materii
without the paillettes on the owe
dress; or again the under robe ma
be OF sheer white or color and til
over dress of the same sheer stui