The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1910-11-04

Duy coat pattern Dy Dust medSur
and skirt pattern by waist measure
After alterations in both patterns
have been made, cut your skirt, doub-
ling material and folding it length
wise. Match notches and don't forget
your tailor's tacks for perforations ~
inverted pleats. Make as specified on
pattern envelope.
AS this is your first attempt at coat
making, and cloth is too expensive to
spoil, make a cheap paper muslin pat
tern OF your coat before attempting
TO cut material Basic and At IL.
When defects have been corrected, rip
apart and cut away allowance for seam
edges Then fasten muslin pattern to
cloth, and mark outline OF each sec.
ton of pattern, bust and waist line
with tailors chalk; perforations with
tailor's tacks, and cut material, allow
ing one-half inch all the way around.
Remove pattern and thread-mark over
chalk marks To do this, you loosely
haste through materials, using double
thread. When finished, cut threads
between the two thicknesses OF mate
rial which leave markings on both
pieces Have thread markings meet
In making
To aid you In making this gar.
ment. Let me give you a few bits OF
advice. We no longer use stin can
vas. but depend on the constructive
lines OF the coat for the shape.
Catstitch your canvas pieces and
collar to coat before the first fitting.
After fitting, tape edges which form
lapel and catstitch canvas and cloth
h., a,xyfo{k1n ufftnhnd- hfRh do not
show through on the right side-to
have coat retain its shape.
In cutting lining, cloth and velvet
for collar carefully mark perforations
where collar turns and stitch lining,
cloth and canvas, as illustrated. la
facing fronts, see that they do not
pucker.
II you have a hollow about armhole.
cut circular piece of cotton waddinL
the shape OF the space (see illustra-
tom, and add as many thicknesses as
required, to AL hollow.
The tops of the sleeves have no gath
ers this season. If sleeve when fin
ished is fuller than the armhole after
allowing one inch for easing, shrink
fullness away by placing little Fuckers
without creasing and press with hot
iron on wrong side. II 1t is too mar
| row, stretch and draw material gently
until necessary width.
In pressing seams OF coat, see that
! the garment lays fiat on table, or II Is
! apt to show creases.
Line coat as directed on envelope
and exercise care In basting 10 keer
II easy, holding loosely in fitting II tC
garment to prevent drawing" OF coat
Tack lining OF sleeve In several places
and your coat is finished.
In making skirt, haste all seams
down from top. Fold inverted plaits
in exact line Of perforations. and see
that those in back come in proper
place. When sewing up darts on the
inside portions, remember instructions
given in underwear lesson. Skirt
should At snugly across hips. When
stitching permanent seams. also sew
them one way, otherwise your skirt Is
apt to sag. Press seams from waist
line down, and when permanent
ly stitched bind them with tape which
comes for that purpose.
You can finish the bottom Of the
skirt with braid by slipstitching It to
inside OF hem, permitting II to extend
three-sixteenths Of an inch beyond ma
| terial.
A pretty finish for the waistband OF
your skirt is an attached belt. TIC
make it, cut strip PA inches wide on
the straight OF the goods, allow two
inches beyond your waist measure and
face with a lining, and you haze fin
! ished as smart a suit as you could
wish to have.
The fifth article, TO be published TO.
morrow, will describe methods for