New-York tribune., 1910-04-13
Fairbanks Expedition Reaches
Alaskan Peaks Summit.
NO TRACE OF DR.. +. A. COOK
His Maps and Data Found USE
less-Details of Months Trip
Few Serious Difficulties.

[ arrived here last night HIS conpanlo"'
we're Daniel Patterson, W T. Taylor AMI
Charles McGonnigIe- All reached the tJr
or the mountain.
The expedition which left Fairbanks o.
December Is. whiIa the controversy over
| Or. Cooks disputed ascent was stin SoiES
on. was financed by August Peterson and
William McPIIce, Of this city. The plan
was 70 go into camp on the mountain As
high as possible. and probably about the
middle Of May to make a start for the sum
nit.
The obstacles encountered were rot 50
/ great as had been predicted.
Four camps were established during the
ascent. and trail was blazed all the wa
t. the crest. Up TO twelve thousand feet
the climbing did not present unusual diff
culties. For the next four thousand feet
the way led over steep ice field which 81
frs, seemed to forbid further progress. but
through which upon exploration, IL was
found possible TO make Il path.
The final trip To the summit was made
from the sixteea thousand foot camp.
Mount Mckinley terminates IN twin peaks
OF equal height. one somewhat rounded ana
covered with snow. the other composed 4
bare and wind swept rocks. on the rock
peak the Fairbanks climbers placed an
American flag In monument OF stones.
The expedition. which was provided with
DR.. Cooks maps and data. eudeavored to
follow his supposed route but failed -
verify any part Of his story of an ascent
F. s. DeIenbaugh librarian Of the Ameri-
can Geographical Society. considered il ~
tirely feasible that the Fairbanks party
should have reached the summit Of Mount
Mckinley. Mr.. DelIenbaugh. who is an a5i-
thority on mountain climbing and explora-
ton. said that in some respects. in spite -!
the intense cold. winter was better season
in which to climb the Alaskan mountaI75
than summer. IN winter the snow slides
are fewer said he. "and there is no fog.
The footing is firmer"
Mr. Dallenbaugh said he was prepared :,
hear that the party had made a successful
ascent after the report OF a month dso
when one Of the party returned 70 Fail
banks and announced that Lloyd and HI.
followers had reached a point twelve hod-
sInd feet up the side Of the mountain. Ha
was surprised. though. he said that success
should have come 50 soon.
Professor NJ II. SavilIe. Of the ExpIorers
Club. said that even though the Lloyd ex-
pedition had reached the summit there
was no actual proof OF fraud on the part Of
Or. Cook because they did not ind traces
OF his ascent.
Il don't see how any one could find any
thing anyway, now. said Professor SaviIIe.
snow. ice and the winds might easily have
destroyed or oblterated any traces of pre-
yiOus ascent"
In regard 10 the verdict Of the Explorers
/ Club on Dr. Cooks alleged ascent Profess
Sor Savie who was one Of the committee
/ of investigation. said they found that
/ Or. Cooks books and papers furnished no
actual proof of the Climb and that their
request for more detailed records was never
. responded To by him.
cook promised US the records. said Pro-
fessor Saville but never furnished them %
Commenting on the ascent Of Mount Nc
Kinley by the Fairbanks expedition at his
Office. at No. ~ Wall street Genera
Thomas n Hubbard said yesterday after
noon he was surprised 20 hear that Thomas
. Lloyd and his companions reached the
| summit Of the mountain so early. but
I that he understood they were competent
mountain climbers. and while he did not
profess 70 be an authority on the subject
ne said he had no doubt that they mad sue
ceeded in doing what they set out to do.
He added that lie was not surprised tC
having ascended the mountain 10 its sum
NIT. Or. Cook. in the generals opinion. IN
doubtedly went part way around Mount
Mckinley, but from DR.. Cooks own &C
count in his book the general thought tha
IL was unwise 10 place credeuCe in HI:
statements.
The Mount Mckinley expedition is made
up of Thomas Lloyd. Robert Horn Harry
Karsten and Charles McGonigIe. all ex
pericnCed moUntaincers. Word received
from the party at Seattle on April saiC
that the climbers had reached an elevation
] Of 1900 feet without great difficulty. a
that point they were confronted by an al
most perpendicular wall of ice. which
stretched more than four thousand feet {,
the summit. The men said. however. tha
they had found a gap in the ice wall an,
believed that they would be able TO reacl
the top.
The expedition was equipped with a dos
team and supplies and they established q
base at the foot of the mountain. They
planned To make the final start for IN,
summit at the break OF winter in March
The members Of the party agreed 70 for
ieit 5000 if none of them reached the sum
nit. one OF their objects was 20 verify or
disprove the statement Of DR.. Frederick A
Cook that he reached NE summit on Sep
temDer Is. 1906 He said that he had Ieft
al The top of the mountain proofs that h,
had been there, including. Il was reported
one OF the historic brass tubes.
Professor HerscheI q. Parker of Column
bla University. was a member OF the eN
petition which DR. Cook led 10 the noun
tain. and he later disputed Cooks asser-
ton that he reached the summit after the
professor and other companions had turned
back Professor Parker recently organized
an expedition 20 attempt the ascent. and 81
was planned that this party should leave
New York about April p next. They in
tended 90 go To Seattle and thence by
steamship 10 COOK Inlet. on the Alaskan
coast From that point they planned G,
travel by motorbOat 20 the Chulnita
Glacier. where a permanent base would b,
established
Mount Mckinley is said to be the highest
point OF the North American continent. ano
rs in the Alaskan range. latitude Is de
grees minutes north. latitude I5l degrees
west It's height is given as n. 464 feet II
has great glaciers. and has been regarded
as most difficult of ascent.