Arizona republican., 1910-10-14

way in which the sides are draped
| about the knees, the skirt boasts nc
trimming whatever. The coat falls
below the hips. is semi fitting, has a
wonderfully clever cut back and is
bound all around with black braid
Some extremely chic tailored
| frocks in velvet are seen. Mostly
! they are in black, but dark colors
are also shown. Fashion likes to
| trim these dresses with handsome
braids, folds of silk or velvet and
| with bands of fur A model which
ksupplies the idea for any kind OF
trimming preferred is in black vel
vet shading to steel grey. 1t is dark
er than the old-fashioned iron grey
| but not as steady in color. Under
! certain lights the velvet is almost
totally black, while again it shows
such delicious tones of grey that one
is not at all certain about the color
scheme involved. In this instance
the skirt of walking lenght has side
panels stitched over the goods and
| shaped like a tunic The skirt is
narrow and close-fitting about the
! hips. 1t is accompanied by a coat
outlined with narrow bands of very
! heavy corded silk. which may be re-
placed by broadtail. sable, seal or
any of the furs to be in great de-
mand during the winter.
Bodice lines are of interest when
one studies frocks for house wear.
They are OF the simplest, with the
narrow shoulders. which in connec-
ton with the clinging straight mar
row skirt line makes hips a decided
| embarrassment. One must do away
with any amplitude of hip in order
to look at all well in the modish
frock, and if this can not be accom-
plished or one is unwilling to make
the sacrifice necessary to its ac-
complishment then by all means let
the skirt take on a suggestion of the
bell hne-a line quite admissible in
moderation this season. One sees
good deal of the yoke or upper
bodice and sleeves cut together,
though the yoke is seldom very deep
In many instances il is also of con-
trasting material. One of the new
frocks from Paris is in figured silk
with the upper yoke and sleeves of
chiffon. artistically chirred from the
shoulder right down the center Of
the arm to the elbows, where the
sleeves end with a jaunty little cuff
of antique linen The long line of
trimming down shoulder and outside
of sleeve is often repeated, too, in
buttons in bands of lace, chiffon and
other material. and nine out of ten
Ibodices are cut without shoulder
ones.
The deep color will be a great
friend to the woman who cannot
afford a new gown just now, yet
who wishes to disguise the shoulder
seam in a bodice, separate or part
of a costume. These little accessor-
les of dress are made to supply the
long shoulder line and hide a shout
der seam, If there is one. The sal
lor color, consequently has been lift
ed from the place in outing garb to
which it has usually been relegated
and introduced upon the smartest
and most elegant afternoon frocks
Some times in separte blouses it is
lost in a clever drapery arrangement
which looks part fishu, part vest
and part yoke. 1t is usually rlade
rather unobtrusive in the front, a
favorite idea being to run it out in
a straight hne across the shoulders
giving the effect of a shallow sh sul-
der yoks, while in the back il has
the true sailor collar squarerAs,S-
The corded silks are making a bid
for favor in connection with hand
some street suits, the wine cord APP
parently finding more favor than the
Ottoman, although one sees the lat
ter here and there. The beauti
full MORE is beloved of some of the
most famous dressmakers of Paris,
and other soft moires are used also
for the coat and frock costumes or
for coats and suits with frocks of
sheerer fabrics. The new taffeta has
its advocates but for some reason
or other does not seem to be ac
cepted enthusiastically as a cold
weather silk, and satin still holds
its place as the favorite silk for
street wear
Curious combinations are to be
seen in some of the bordure mater
ials. One handsome line of these
and wool mixture or plain color,
with a wool border in cachmire or
other Oriental design and coloring.
One sees soft, rough boucle border
on plain cloths and bands of rich
cachmire design on fine woolens
such as cachmire. These soft fine
woolens in cachmire design and color
are sometimes used sparngly for
trimming, even upon black satin or
velvet, and even upon such eclectic
frocks as the white serges, they are
used to introduce artistic color
schemes.
The craze for dull toned metallic
laces and nets finds expression in a
large proportion of fancy and vanity
bags, used so extensively by we'll
dressed women and exquisite gold
and silver brocades or brocades shot
with silver and gold are much used.
Some remarkably pretty and elegant
bags which are simple of construc-
ton, owe their smartness and beauty
largely to their shape and trim
ming.