davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1910-08-03

Saturday half-holiday is recognized
in sixteen States of this country and
two cities.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1910-08-03

Most old.
people must give
the bowels gentle, con-
slant help. One candy ascaret
each day does that. Harsh.
physic, take1 regularly, makes the
bowels caIlous. Cascarets DO not
Nearly al old people now use this
natural, gentle help.
vest.pociet box, 10 cents-at drug-stores. 81
Each tablet of the genuine Is marked c.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
Contrasts in Fabrics

The use OF two fabrics in one costume,
when they arc happily chosen, is at
traetiye TO the eye and to the sense OF
economy, for the scant models OF the
past few seasons have allowed little op-
portunity for making over without the
addition of some other material Con-
trasts are sought in fabric and often in
color. and best of all, the sleeves, al
ways difficulty in the rcmodcling prob
lem. are seen in two fabrics, A navy
blue serge, for example, may have little
jacket effects of black silk on the waist.
and the upper portion of the sleeves will
be of the black silk, with the lower of
the serge Some sort of shaping will
be given the joining edges. to suggest
an intentional, and not 4 picccdout cf-
feet. RemodelIng is largely matter of
cutting the coat according to the cloth,
but many highly original effects are born
of the planning contingent upon a miss
ing corner on an otherwise satisfactory
piece OF cloth Many Of the late winter
models show so much in the way of
chemisettes, cross-ovcr bands, vest
edges, plastron and panel and girdlc
that, with these models in mind, the am
atcur dressmaker must exercise disere-
tIon to avoid the effect OF scraps and
patches. That all men do not think
alike saves life from a dull monotony.
and there is the same gracious relief in
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

this undertaking IS given, and from 1t
must be cut two pieces OF cloth and
three pieces of lining. Boys clothing
always laps, in closing. from left to
right
The position of the hip-pockct is indi-
Gated IN the pattern by pcrforationS.
There is also a dart at the top of each
back portion. The perforations must be
transferred to the cloth by making
chalk mark through each then. when
the pattern Is removed, so over these
chalk dots with tailors tacks. that will
mark the outline of the dart-seam on
both pieces. Mark the pocket position
at the same time. Both darts arc to be
taken up. but the pocket is made in the
right side only. Stitch the darts and
press the seam open, though ! do not
advise cutting the dart, 1t is easy to
press the seam open without Cut a
piece of the same cloth an inch and one
half wide and one inch longer than the
marked length for the pocket Law il
on the outside of the right-hand back
portion, over the pocket-mark. From
the undcrsidc make a line OF baSting
stitches along the pockct-mark and
through both pieces of cloth. To the
underside bastc piece OF canvas OF
corresponding size and in the same posi-
ton From the outside make a row OF
machine stitching at each sidc Of the
marking basting and as close to it as
possible-not more than onc-eigh,h OF
an inch. The stitching is made at the
sides only, not across the ends. Tic the
ends OF the threads securely. cut along
the marking-line with a pair OF sharS
scissors and push through the openine
so made the applied piece OF cloth. al,
lowing welt.edgc OF il to extend be
yond the stitching-line at each edge Of
the pocSet-9pening. Basic closely 10
hold the cloth in place, and press il we'll
Take piece OF drilling fyc inches wide
aud tell inches long on one end haste
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
? 1}EHTICE Wins
Tennis SINGLES
In National Indoor Championship
Matches Howard Man
Takes Honors.

New York, Fob. 21.-ln the National
Indoor Lawn Tennis singles champion
ship today, J. S, Prentice. former Har-
ward player. scored the upset of the
day, defeating Calhoun Craigin, 4-e;
6-1; 6.1 r A. Holden. Jr, Yale.
holder of the western championship
at Chicago. defeated S H. Voshell'
60; Cd
VIM. Hall won from the Columbia
player. E. II. .Pfeiffer, 6-2; 60.
H. A Plummer. ex-Yale champion,
defeated II. NJ. Beckley. .6-2; 6-2.
A. L. Hoskins of Philadelphia went
down In straight sets before L. f.
Fitch. Ga; rs, and G. F. Touchard.
the Californian. defeated E. Bigelow.
G-3; 7.6.
All three matches were in the sec
ond round. In the only third round
match played, R. D. Richey defeated
L. j. Fl. Todd. Jr, Fanwood club.
7-6; 6-1.
w. C. Denille and o. v. Boswick
won the only match decided In the
doubles. defeating P. T. Large. Jr.
Harvard. and s. H. Voshell. e-2; GA.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

This stitching finishes the pockct-open-
ing and also holds the two ends of the
strip OF drilling, making L pocket FIVE
inches square
If the cloth is not very stout the
fronts of the knickcrs may be lined with
lining material cut 10 the same shape,
but II this is not necessary small stay
piece OF lining should be basted at the
crotch on each of the four sections it
IS shown on the lcft-front i'll the first
illustrations Here also is shown the
facing in which the buttonholcs are 10
be worked and the facing piece Of lining
that must be scanned to the cloth first
There were three OF these cut in lining
and two IN cloth. Lay one OF the lining
pieces on the edge OF the cloth section
and facing 1t. with the notch i'll both cor
responding. Stitch 4 seam at the edge
from tho top OF the section TO the notch.
Turn the lining-piccc under to the
wrong side and baste the edge. JOIN
one OF the lining g-pieces 70 one of the
cloth facing-picccs in the same way
Stitch 1t at the basted edge, then haste il
in place TO the front The buttouholcs
may be worked in it before or after it
is applied Illustration II shows the
right-front with the underlap applied to
1t This underlap is composed OF cloth
and i lining section scanned together at
the outer edge, not on the curved side.
The curved edge of the cloth facing is
scanned to the front edge OF the trousers
section, from the waist to the notch. the
scam pressed open; then the lining piece
is turned under at It's curved edge and
basted over the presscd-opcn seam. On
this undcrlap the buttons arc to be
sowed to correspond with the buttonholes
in the facing The inch or so on both
undcrlap and facing. from the notch to
the lower end, is left loose, and is later
included i'll the scam that joins the two
leg portions together.
Now, with the hip-poeket in place and
the facings on both front portions. is the
lime 10 insert the side pockets. a mar
row facing OF cloth must be bastcd to
the inside of tho pocket-cdge that IS 10
be Joined 20 the front; the correspond
ing facing for tho back was cut in ono
with the back portions as a narrow cx-
tension at the top OF each. Both these
facines are Tor the purpose OF conceal
ing the drilling at the .pocket-open:ng,
Scam the faced side OF the pocket to the
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

edges of the drilling pocket and stitch
together through the two fold-cdges.
leaving the raw edges inside the pocket
Stitch the inside leg seams, and press
them open Join the two leg sections
together by scanning from the notch at
the lower edge OF the front facing TO the
waist at the back Press the seam open,
and on the inside, blste a strip OF tape
or of lining over the preSscd-opcn scam.
then from the outside make 4 row of
stitching at each side OF the seam.
Cut the belt. Of drilling, marking the
positions for the buttonholeS. Fold the
belt lcngthwiSe through the center turn
under the raw edges and bastc together
through the fold-edgcs, making the belt
double with the seams inside Face the
top of the knickcrs with a piece of lining
material Let the facing extend 10 the
edge of the undcrlap on the right front,
but on the left slip il under the edge of
the facing. Measure the belt to the in
side OF the woist-line of the knickcrs,
and observe that the marks for the but
tonholcs conc in the correct places. On
the right front, i buttonholc should be
even with the seam that joins tho under
lap TO the front portion. The fifth but
tpHlIOic SuouId VIC cNCI Will tllc center
back seam The ready-madc knickers
fasten al tho front of the waist with
wide hook and eyc-a kind sold for the
urposc-although the so-called seal
hooks, used for closing fur garments,
may be used If either is difficult to
get, the closing may be made with but
ton and buttonholc, the latter worked in
the end OF the belt When the hook is
used it is sewed between the belt and
the outside. leaving only the hook part
extended beyond the cloth The eye
portion is inserted in the scam that joins
the underlap to the right-front, the seam
being ripped space for that purpose
The closing will look better it the end
of the belt on the left side be faced with
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
CAPE CLOAKS
TO REAPPEAR
Moire and Bengaline will Ger
tainly be Used in Spring
Coats

effects. Such a scarf is illustrated OIL
this page There is no fitting or shapine.
Just length CASUALLY about three yards;
OF the chosen material in full width.
Smaller scarfs of satin with cdging aud
lengthwise stripes of marabout or ip
are worn as neckpieccs, and have large
fiat muffs to match A very pretty form
OF net scarf has the ends decorated with.
a simple geomctrical sort Of design.
worked IN coarse chain stitch with en-
broidcry silk; other scarfs arc made Of
alternate rows Of ribbon and lace. ,.
form of scarf that may be arranged as
unique dress garnituTc is divided IN hal!
and each end is gathered into tho cnc
OF band that is about hvc inches wide
and eight inches long. This band is q:
some handsome trimming or Of The
scarf material embroidered or braided
There are several ways to arrange j. "a
the waist. One is to place the marrow
band at the front, carry the scarf en5s
back under the arms, cross them at tho
back and bring them over the shoulder.
to the front again, where they should y,
slipped under the front part Of the scarf
and fall, one at each side, in a straight.
down line, The arrangement might DO
reversed. and in either case a novel,
jacket-sort Of arrangement would re.
suit
Coats will grow shorter, as is to be
expected for spring and evidenced by
some exceedingly carly models, but |,
seems more than probable that the long,
straight cape-cloaks, so we'll liked this
autumn. will rcappear, for a time at
least More and bcngaline have been
so successfully used for coats that they
are rather a certainty for the spring. A
very limited trial was made this fall Of
tailored coat and skirt suits of foulard
silk. They were SO very successful that
we may expect to hear more OF them
Foulard and the RaJah weaves own the
field for any sort OF dress suit as ths
days grow warmer. There are still
many cold days to come, however, and
foulards and Rajahs need not come into
the story yet, except that anyone with
the comforting knowledge that she ha
one or the other hanging safely and
comfortably away may bear it in mind
for possible rc-devclopment of SOM
model that may attract In woolens 70.
spring the tendency is toward roughcr
surfaces. but for general wear serge.
with hard rather than 4 soft chcyio'
finish. is to be preferred. and these with
panamas and mohair, will be by no
means neglected among the materials oil
moderate price. Navy blue and black
continue to be tic most popular colorS.
and for spring gray and gray effects are
promised.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
ELASTIC IN HENS OF LEGS
MUST NOT BE TOO TIGHT
Be Careful see that Marks for the Buttonholes
in the Correct Places

the cloth. or lining the same color. to
avoid showing a line OF white drilling
The facing at the top Of the knickcfs
may be made wide enough to extend be-
low the belt. and in that case 1t will
cover the canvas and make a neat ir-
side finish for the work on the hi5-
pocket Ii the facing Is only the widt,-
OF the belt, the canvas and pocket-to.
should be trimmed and neatly over
handed Illustration III shows the in
side finish with the narrow facing,
Make line OF machine stitching, from
the outside, at the lower edge of the
belt The belt may be tackled to the
facing between the buttonholes, and the
facing at the left-front should he Sim,
larly tackled Hem the lower end of each
trousers leg and insert a piece OF flat
elastic in the hem Have the elastic tight
enough to avoid slipping down, but not
sufficiently tight to interfere with cir
culation. If the knickefbockcrs are made
OF galatea, brown Holland or other ma
tcrial that will be lsundcrcd. the elastic
must be removed before the knickers
are tubbcd To facilitate replacing, a
good plan will be to sew a hook on one
end and an eye on the other of the
elastic, The knickerS may be gathered
into band to button below the knee.
The band should be made long enough
TO lap at least an inch and the leg-seam
on the outside should be left open per-
hapS two inches make the banded open
ing large enough for the foot 10 slip
through. The band is made double and
about threc-quartcrs of an inch wide
when finished. The lower edge of each
knickcr leg is gathered. and the edge
slipped between the two fold-edges CT
the band. which is then stitched.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
UTAH PIONEER
PASSES TO REST
Henry Downs of Statewide Sue
cumbs to Attack Of Par
alysis.

Henry Downs, resident Of Utah
and Weber county since 1853. died
yesterday morning at 10. so O'Clock at
the family residence in Statewide Of
!HTalysis Mr. Bowns, who was =
rom!uoat member of the Latter Day
SAINTS church. was born January Q.
ie-l. In Lancashire England. coming
- this country and direct TO Utah
. 1853. Since that time he has been
gngud 10 farming in various parts
&c Weber county and has for many
eus been resident Of Slaterville.
e Is survived by his widow and one
,1n. s y. Downs. OF Statewide. and
roar grandchildren.
Irlmcral services Will be held
Thursday afternoon at l o'clock from
are Sll.eIYlile meeting house. prob
1y under the supervision of Bishop
{ ater. Burial will be In the Ogden
C!sy cemetery.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
IDAHO BANKERS
ARE ACCUSED
Defense Witness Makes New
Charges in Trial for
Land Frauds. a.

Boise. Ida. Fob. z1.-reastng uhe
witness stand In behalf OF tho govern.
ment Clarence Robnett, witness for
the defense at the former trial Of
william F. Kettenbach. George Kes.
ter and William Driver. charged with
conspiracy TO dcfraud the govern
ment out OF valuable timber lands
along the Clearwater river In Neg
Perce county. told OF a conspiracy in
which he accused the Lewiston bank
ers, Kettenbach and Kester, OF being
the principals. Dwyer being their
tool. The witness acknowledged that
he asked the bankers TO let him In on
the deal, which he said they did TO a
ooTtdn degree, although he did not
share in the profits,
During the crosS.examination, Rob-
sett admitted that he is unled indict.
mcnt for subornation OF perjury and
-mbczzlement The latter charge Is
in connection with the looting OF the
Lewiston National bank, of which he
was formerly bookkeeper Ketten-
bach and Keslcr. former president
and cashier OF the bank. are under
indictment on the same charge. Rob
nett testified that the bank funds
we're used to pay entrynen, the
checks being handled as cash as they
were presented, so they would not
show on the books. He also said
that a one hundred dollar bill was
used in making most Of the entries
the bill being used over and over
again to make filings. AS to his rea
sons for turning states evidence
Robnett said he decided to make 6
clean breast Of the whole matter and
told his story first to Special Agenh
Watts and Smith at Spokane.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

H cral idea th9t inc making OF
the pockets in boys and men
- clothing is mysterious pro-
cess, unfathomable by the amateur Be-
cause OF this mistaken notion ! have
been told that some unhappy small boys
are doomed 10 a pocketlcss condition
when their knlckers arc of home make.
Such state of affairs demands instant
remedy, and illustrated proof that put
ting IN the pockets is really a simple
matter. The hip-pocket might be spared.
but the e-pooketS-never The first
illustration shows how these arc pre-
pared Drilling is the best material for
these pockets. as they need to be strong.
A piece about ten inches square IS folded
IN half. forming a pocket five inches
wide and ten inches deep Pin one Of
these to each front section of the llnick-
crS, and trim the edges 10 the same
shape as the cloth edge, which usually
slopes in tritle toward the waist-linc.
and make at the edge the notches that
indicate the length of the pocket open
ing The lower edge may be left
straight or one corner may be rounded,
as shown IN the illustration. IL the hip
pocket be made. il should be inserted in
thcr ight-hand back portion before that
IS joined to any other; in fact. that is
the solution OF the only difficulties in
tIousers-making-thc order Of procedure.
The hip-pocket is placed first, then the
facing on the fronts, next the side
pockets, then the outside leg seams fol-
loving these the inside leg seams. then
the seam joining the two leg sections
and finally the top-faeing, the belt and
the lower end of each leg Fer boys OF
eight years and over the trousers arc
usually made 10 button down the front
with an undertaking (in which button
holes arc workcd) OF the left side and
an underlap. to which the buttons arc
sewed. on the right.front. A pattern oI
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
farmers Wife IS
KILLED WITH AXE

Marathon, Ia, Feb 21.-Mrs. Guy
toberts. wife OF a prosperous farmer
.vlns near here. was murdered at
e45 forno today. Henry Johnson. who
~Ne arrested charged with the crime,
: mentally dornnged He confessed
Gys guilt this afternoon. saying Ire
Sre4 Mrs. Roberts 10 prevent her
rllinS her children. He probably Will
ks cant 20 an insane hospital tomor-
rer. The murderer out his viclm'a
head to pieces with an axe. Johnson
oes been employed on the Roberts
tarn for a year and he had showa
40 signs OF insanity,
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

extension piece on the back portion of
the knickers, making the fold-edgc on
line with the stitchlng-line of the leg
seam, that will be made threc-eighths of
an inch inside the raw edge of that scam.
Stitch this pocket edge IN place and
stitch also the edge of the facing piece
that extends inside tho pocket. Baste
the leg seam from the pocket notch to
the lower edge. Turn both raw edges
of the seam toward the front, in order
to make lap-seam effect on the outside,
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

4 piece OF the cloth five inches wide and
about ono inch deep, to serve as fac
ing to the top OF the pocket. that the
drilling may not show through the
pockct-opcning. Basic the unfaccd end
to the lower edge of the pockct-opcning
and stitch from the outside, on a line
with the row Of hastings; then bastc the
faced end (thc facing toward the cloth
of the trousers) to the upper edge of
the pockct-opening, and make a CORE
spending row Of stitching on that side.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

Oh. come, let's all be poets,
What though VIC cannot rhymc2
'Tis easy when VIC know its
Just singing all the time
Just sounding on the tabor
God places in our hearts.
And taking to our ncighbor
The message He imparts.
JoHN KENDRcK BANGS
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

A St. Louis woman is advertising
for pure buttermilk- The advertiser
rocites that no diaryman need apply.
She says she has tried all the dairtes
I'm ST. Louis and has been half around
the world in a vain search for butter
milk OF the good old fashioned kind.
churned in the good oldfashioned way.
with little pieces OF butter floating
around In IL
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
Huge Scnrfs Popular

The long coat and the long cloak have
kept securely in favor The popularity
of the loose. untitled cape cloak, almost
huge scarf in fact, has been a bit in
consistent when worn with the closely
fitted princess gowns, but there is no
question of the popularity of the scarf in
every size and material In heavy satin
or satin-faccd cloth, edged on all four
sides with band of marabout. an en-
veloping wrap for evening wear is pro-
duced, capable OF most graceful drapery
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

difference is that the shirt-waist sleeve
is not used. something of more dress eff
feet being substituted Usually IT takes
the form of 4 fitted sleeve with horI-
zontal tucks, in size from one-cighth to
one-half an inch, and in any sort OF
grouping choice may suggest Bands of
cloth and soutachc braiding trim these
waists, and the entire color scheme is
in one and matches the skirt. The
waists are lined throughout with white
net. in plain blouse shape. the object
being greater strength and wearing
quality. Waists of taffeta and OF mes
saline are also being shown in simple
models and with rather full bralding de-
signs applied to the front. strongly sug-
gestivc of the embroidery on lingerie
waists.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

front section. having the cloth facing
against the outside OF the cloth and run
ming the seam from the upper to the
lower notch. Turn the pocket over to-
ward the inside, bastc, then stitch the
fold edge Turn under a seam on the
other pocket edge and slip it under the
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

and stitch from the outside, making the
stitching an apparent continuation. OF
that on the front edge OF the pocket
opening Make j similar row OF stitch
ing from the upper pocket notch to ,hes
waist Turn III seam on the unJoined
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22
DR.. COOK LEAVES VALPARAISO.

Santiago. Chile. Feb. 21.-Dr. Fred
erick A. Cook left here today for Val
paraiso.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

the fact that all women do not dress
alike. Even so. in tho one piece princess
season there have been separate waists
and skirts, and the combination is grow
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-02-22

made OF heavy, round-mcsh net or chif
fon cloth. and any pattern suitable for a
waist OF linen. madras or other wash
able material may be used. The only