davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
Correct Sitting Position.

If fashion should ever change so the
long corsets worn at present would be
out of style, woe betide the woman who
has relied too much upon them, for in
truth more than one wearer of the mod
ern stays gives no heed at present to the
way she sits or stands, because she Is
held in such wise that her muscles are
not used much. And it is this fact which
will cause her woe later. for once cords
become fabby they weaken, and then
when the props are removed the flesh, if
fat, is usually shapelesS.
We may revle and jeer al the olden
tales of discipline through which our
erandmOthers were drilled to make them
sit straight, but the fact remains they
put US TO shame even when they We're
al the mature age of sixty. Their spines
had been developed so large hips and
projecting abdomens were as common as
during the present generation.
Indeed, it is literally true that no wom-
an can afford to let her spine grow lax if
she wishes to have presence or a grace
full carriage. For the spine must be
straight and shoulders held back. Let her
cultivate the habit of keeping them in
this attitude and she will have dignity
and poise that may make a younger
woman look insignificant beside her
| know OF no easier way of keeping the
spine straight than to sit as far back in
chair as the body can be pushed, yet,
strange To say, lew persons 90 TINS.
Women. particularly. usually seat them
selves so the small of the back is against
the chair. Instead of this position. the
small of the back must be bowed away
from the chair so the tip of the spine will
be against the back. If this attitude is
taken the shoulders cannot sag forward,
so uncomfortable would be the position,
the hips are kept in proper place and the
abdomen is not thrown out OF plumb.
Push ] would say TO "a woman who is
about 10 sit on a chair-''push with the
lower part of the spine until you can go
no further" Then let her put her chin
up her shoulders back. and if she has
any good looks she will make the most
of them. MARGARET MiATER.
OF course the "chantecler'' frill is most
talked of lust now. and all sorts of frill-
ings are sold under the name, and will
be sold under the plain generic title when
"chantecler'' fashions have rowed them
selves 10 death, will soon be the case.
If one has a black lace parasol cover
packed away this is the time to get 1t
out for a dress naraSol or a big hat,
but use il while the fancy lasts.
"Chantecler' takes in tho entire barn
yard or farmyard. rabbit warrens, guinea
pig preserves and kindred environments.
The craze is too violent to last.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
Tailored BIouses.

a LTHOCGH these good-looking, con-
~ venient blouses and shirt waists
& Ahave been threatened from time to
time, it is amusing to observe the in
sistence with which they pursue their
undisturbed career.
More than ever are they being adopt
ed this season. Pongee, linen in plain
and striped designs and standings in
every coceiyable tone are the materials
that lend themselves to a satisfactory
exploitation of tailored lines.
These blouses are worn with the frill
on the collarless line, Or with the stiff
linen collar. That fril, by the way, is
so universally apparent that a few in
trepid ones predict a swing of the pen
dulum in favor of the covered throat.
Time alone will tell that.
Undeniable is the fact that the tail.red
blouses give an impression of severe
neatness that should appeal to business
women who recognize the fact that upon
the cut and material depends the undis-
turbed, good condition at the end of the
day.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

They are designed for porch use at the
summer hotel over the delicate afternoon
dress or the still more airy dance frock OF
tho evening, and while America does not
envelop herself in the wrap 10 the extent
that Paris does, the garment VIII nave It's
fun quota OF admirers and wearers among
the eXquisitely gowned.
The straight piece of chiffon is now
draped TO give the effect Of a manteau,
if indeed it is not cut into a definite
shape and sewed into manteauN such
as those before you in the Partisan
sketch
They are Il separate garment. not
matching the gown. but 50 contrlVed
as To color that they supply desired
contrast or carry out harmony. Brlght
color matching the blossoms on an even
ing hat is the last note that Paris sounds
for the manteau.
ever an evening gown of creamy col
orng, the manteau with capenke friil
about the shoulders is a sunset pink
chiffon cloth made with the panier idea
along its lower edge and on hchu lines
above. Frivolous roses in group OF
three hold it together, and there could
not well be imagined more suitable
fastening.
With tassels of brilliant color depending
from its two looped ends, the manteau
on the central figure is of cerlSe cnlffon
with a crepe finish. The main body of
the wrap is drawn into loose neckband
of the same material and draped round
the figure TO form the wrap shown IN the
sketch. Cerise is much in evidence IN
Paris in the evening, and particularly
for these scarf wraps.
The last. a black sheer moussellne, is
worn over gold-colored gown.
Many of these wraps are made with
kimono sleeves: most OF them are OF
heavy tUlle, of chiffon or of silk mar
quisette and the choice shades are
black, ceriSe or vivid violet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
Simplicity in Peasant Garb

ing which are prominent among early
tribes and present-day peasants
In the region Of the elbow we have now
tendency toward the carelcssly fitted
sleeve which widens as il hangs after the
fashion of the country folk of the east:
and with this sleeve is worn the holiday
undersleeve OF handmade lace. the Veri-
able bit over which some laboring wom-
an has passed her quiet hours at home,
the thought of which adds To our appre-
citation of its delicacy and its curiously
wrought design.
Worn with the simple seamless bodice in
the lowered neck line and the tiny chem
lSette shlrred to a cord, again a Persian
note; and the pendant one Of the earliest
known pieces of jewelTy. comes back to
us in ia plaque. This IS "A locket-shaped
ornamental bit of inaid metal usually
silver. Platinum and silver are both rene
tItionS of an earlier fashion and the in
laid work on many of the modern plaques
Is but a revival of an earlier arr
The peasant note is strong, and han
PLY, ii is well carried out. down to a.
noticeable lowering of the heels of mi
LADY, shoes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
The Little FriIIS.

~ RISPLY, narrowly. but decidedly, the
1 little frills, pleatings and ruff1es are
~ being added to costumes, both sim
pie and ornate. \ charming feminine
line is attained when the fluffy edgings
are used, for despite the fact that wom-
an is admirably independent, she Is still
a woman, and the whitest of linen and
lace Will always be worn by the ma
jority.
With the collarless gown there will be
worn narrow collarette of linen or lace
The three-quarter sleeves of afternoon
costumes have the frils of tulle or net;
the bolero will be edged with narrow
lines of pleating fringe, and even the
tailored suit has its frl at the opening
in the front.
Lace or linen falls in soft pleats down
the front OF blouse; the shorter sleeves
OF the lingerie blouse are edged with
pleated net or sheer linen.
1t is best TO attach these to separate
bands that can be removed, so that a
delightful snowihess can be preserved. for
the frlll had far better be conspicuously
absent than in an offending state of un-
cleanliness.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

@@HE, little children of Paris pre-
sent a most picturesque appear
ance, differing widely from that
, III with which we are familiar as
q childish ideal. American chill
dren are always simple when they are cor
rectly dressed. and while we cannot
wholly recommend the more unique
methods of the French fog very fear Of
overdressing our little ones, we love 10
stand aside and take notes from which
We draw certain appreciation OF the
picturesque We modify their ideas to
suit our own less quaint children and find
help in the cleverness of the French
mothers
The too-lonS frock is distinctly Partisan,
and though attractive, it Is quite far re-
moved from the practical shortness that
we have accustomed our children TO- This
comfortably abbreviated frock will prob
ably win its way in France some day, as
has our own tailor-made street dress, with
its skirt so much shorter than the Paris
ian once wore.
The long-waisted frock for little girls
is so much a feature of each season s
for ign fashions that the dress with the
dropptd sash has long been known to us
as the little French dress" This is now
worn on both sides of the Atlantic; IN
Paris to a great extent, but on this side
with less enthusiasm, the regular belt line
being more popular here.
Another distinctly French fashion Is
the bretelle, or long revers, extending out
on eiti'er side of the panel and reaching
over the shoulders. This provides an es-
pecially good place for frills of valen-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
How to Open a Book.

Here is something every boy and girl
should learn while young. y book lover
handles a volume as something too preci-
Gus to maltreat, and ii causes to such d
genuine pang to see the careless way in
which the person brought up without the
refining influences of books in the home
sometimes handles and destroys master
pieces of the bookbinder's art. The di-
rections given are from Modern Book
binding
Hold the book with its back on
smooth and covered table. Let the front
board down, then the other, holding the
leaves in one hand while you open
few leaves at the back, then few at the
front and so on, alternately obening
back and front gently pressing open the
sections till you reach the center of the
volume. Do this two or three times and
you will obtain the best results. Open the
volume violently or careleSsly in any
place and you will likely break the back
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
Bridesmaids Gowns.

-OR the early spring bridesmaids it
- is growing customary to plan the
! gowns on a flower scheme, the
delicate blossoms of the orchard afford
ing countless opportunities for colors and
departing a little from the usual.
Apple blossoms, cherry blossoms or the
orange and plum come fragrantly to the
front. Yellow, pink, white or pale leaf
green are capable of being used for the
dresses, which. by the way, music be
round length and sirlish.
Hats must be trimmed with the flowers
to match the bouquet, which is a natural
bunch of buds and flowers.
Embroidery that carries out the flower
idea is suggested for decorating the
gowns while garlands of artificial flowers
lend an air of completeness to the bios
som idea.
All the breath and bloom of the spring
can be given to bridesmaids array. The
idea is assured success when adopted by
the clever bride-to-be.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

ESIDES belilS tSoeliIioiiS '''''f'
in construction, the peasant
garb, which is SO decided ncte
in the present and the incoming
garments. presents certain pecu-
liarities by which we may know IL.
The simplicity must. however, be 'here'
otherwise the true signihcance OF inns
ST vie will he lost. Mainly from the peas
ants of the eastern countries mas this
STYLE been drawn, Russia ana turkey
entering largely into the count mere
glance at the field dress OF an oriehtai
peasant and then consideration OF ms
holiday garb will convince the STUDENT Oh
STYLES and their origin of the blrth OF
this one.
The half skirt or tunic. which came III
with the side-fastening Russian blouse,
was one of the first things borrowed
from the peasant, and there mas ioi-
lowed a steady adaptation OF various
tunic lines and gathers and lapplhss,
both on costumes and coats as well as
on evening gowns, where we nrst saw
the plaque. or ornamental patch of en-
broidery. which has long been one form
of decoration resorted to by the prinl-
tive needleworker.
Speaking of needlework, the peasant
Styles nave DIOUSHl oOoul O. iN'iHo
the earliest stitches and most simple
lines in decoration. COUGHING, or laid
work has returned: cross-stitchlnS has
become more popular; long-effective un-'
padded work like the first attempts OF
peasant woman, are shown as the last
touch on the handmade gown. and all of
the easiest over-and-over work stitched
in at right angles with the last section
of the design reproduce the earliest form
of hand embroidery.
Girdles are a prominent note OF the
peasant garb in the costumers art, hav-
ing descended from the weapon belt of
old and from the convenient cord that
tied in the loose tunic whether it was
long or short.
Proceeding from the girdle and its
ancient clasp, we reach. by natural
process the gathers about the hip and the
very simple bodice, almost seamless, both
of which are the almost prominent fea-
lures of the present style. both distinctly
traceable to the clothes of the field labor
err of eastern countries.
The gathered skirt is comparatively
short, and is simple to a degree: its ten
dency is to pull in about the feet in lines
we would have called ugly a few years
ago a deep hem weights it now. or else
holds in its scant gathers, bringing about
this drawn-in look.
yoke portion without break in the line
blouse, and the various strapped and
buckled fastenings down the left front
repeat the we'll known methods of clasp
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
Ornamental Pockets.

OCkETS are proving an inexhaust-
- BILE mine Tor displaying trimming
of various. kinds There are the
large square shapes that are ornamented
with braid. embroidery or buttons, giving
the decorative plastron so much in vogue
Then, again, there are the pointed
shapes that are frequently used when
the lines Of coat are built on the sharp
slanting scheme.
Stitched flaps are placed on the tailored
suits of severe cut; even lace is used
rather than for Use, for IL must he re-
membered that the perfection of line
must not be destroyed by the contents
Painted ribbons. metallic ditto, ribbons
studded with crystals, pearls peacock $
eyes, wire latticework in gold or silver.
precious stones of turquois. baroque
pearls. etc. variety. gauze ribbons of gold
or silver, and dozens of others are among
the designs shown for the banGeaus or
fIets worn in the dress coiffures OF
today
''t'hantecier'' and other Fittings are in
great demand 10 use as side jabots on
waists and gowns OF silk or fine tub
goods They are also in high favor with
mothers who love to have the little ones
ddintily dressed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
French Fashion Notes.

near the shopping districts. 1t has the
recommendation of insuring an excellent
fit for the outer garments, and you know
that Partisan insists upon perfection
in this respect.
For bouses the silk is much favored,
even though summer is decidedly in the
wind. Old gold satin, severely plain,
trimmed with a Pierrot ruffle and cuffs
of black lace, was fashioned into stun
ming blouse to be worn with a black
and-white checked suit.
Lingerie blouses are charming land eX-
pensive) with wealth of hand-embroid-
cry. NeglgeS are quite content to keep
to the silky way, and with ribbon and
laces are veritable masses of costly
beauty.
Paul Poiret is continuing to evolve
wonderful gowns and hats in his place
on the Avenue d'Antin. A hat OF black
silk crinoline has a facing OF crepe
bleu natter, that gorgeous blue that re-
fleets the sky of a starlit night, rather
than of the bright day. 1t is of the
'cloche' line, large, with a high crown
and rolling brim, and has nothing but
huge bunch of blue grass set in
spiral of old gold.
A Lewis model seen at the Pre- Cate
lam one of the attra ctive restaurants of
the Bots, was of cerise straw, trimmed
with fanliIse arrangement of dropping
wheat held at the front by three dead
roses.
1t is not surprising to find that "Chan-
tecler' has left his impression on wells.
ously ugly as the mesh studded with
growing cocks. The wearer cannot be
cogniZant of the ridiculous side OF this
fashion. Let us hope that it will not
cross the water to the land Of the free!
ELOISE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

and cause a start in the leaves. Never
force the back of the book.
How to Care for a Book.
1t would seem hardly necessary to
warn any one against the manifest impro-
prety of turning down leaves to mark
a place, of pencling perfectly inane COM
ments on the margin of certain passages,
or to dampen the fingers in the mouth
when turning leaves If such sacrilege
was not so common Every teacher and
every librarian has to combat these care
less ard annoying habits, which should
have been corrected at home.
An Advanced 4th Of July Suggestion
While the Fourth is still a good bit off
suggestions for its celebration are al
ready in order.
In the widespread movement to at
tain ii roGrth of July celebration which
is safe and sane" the example set last
year by Springfield, Mass. at the instance
of the settlement workers of that city, is
well worth passing on. 1t required, to
be sure some time and thought, but the
result was a beautiful, poetic and edu-
cational holiday. with no aftermath OF
killed and wounded. There were process
sons balloon ascension. games, folk
dances, athletic contests, boat races, DaHu
concerts and public fireworks, but no hre-
crackers One of the professions was
thing unique in America. Each national
ty in the city was invited to put float in
line. The pilgrims were there to repre-
sent the old American stock; beside them
came a huge Viking ship on wheels, sent
by the Swedes English residents put in
line float showing the signing of Magma
Charta; the Scotch Queen Mary. escorted
by killed Highlanders: the French Cana
dams. Champlain in his boat on the st.
Lawrence; Greeks, Italians and Irish. Ar
menians, Poles and negroes all made
suitable and interesting contributions to
the line Probably more unifying and
citizen-making celebration was never seen
in America
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

And last we recommend for the mora
youthful one a simple fillet of cold or
silver gauze with. at each end a large
rose. made of cloth of gold or silver.
Time was when the young girl looted
oVerdressed with her hair in fillet nm
less it was very simple affair indeed.
but fashions have become SO much nlore
elaborate that. with little discrimna-
ton. it is quite possible to single out
many a simple enough hair ornament for
the youthful face.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
I IOUSE=
TOLD
| HINTS
To Mend China.

Make thick solution of gum arabic
in water and stir into it plaster of paris
until the mixture becomes of a gluelike
consistency Apply it with a brush to
the fractured edges of the china and
press them together. In two or three
DAYS the fracture will have set until it is
impossible to break the article in the
same place. The Whiteness of the &C.
ment renders it doubly valuable.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22
SOME PARTISAN M A N TIE UX

HE gayest of little
frivolous evening
wraps { or t n q
warmest of summer
evenings j s I II g
manteau. Partisan
women adore these
frivolous creations
and they are in
truth a dainty con-
lection for the best
dressed a m o II z
American women.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

brilhants or with iridescent gems, accord
ing to the gown.
Particularly appropriate for the young
girl is the wreath of roses worn with a
not-too-f1at coiffure. but simple one.
Leaves are often substituted for the roses
and to good effect.
With two winged ends of black velvet
altogether suitable for an older woman
is that broad band Of black tulle wired
along it's edges and studded with jet.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

%WP PIE TURN to Paris for the pre-
valing couture. and in turn
KAk ing we find slight but notice
wv able changes.
The present tendency Is
toward a less close mass of hair to which
an algrette or plume adds height. This
decoration is here shown worn with a
jeweIed band OF ribbon, which may be
gold or silver, or color studded with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

Short dressing jackets show ribbons at
the throat, back in front in long loops
and ends at the waist line, which is
usually rather short
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

active in themselves. combining the
charm OF simplicity and graceful lines
which will be generally becoming.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

Metal stravs-that is, a straw with
few threads of gold or silver woven in
it-are another new feature and a most
charming one for evening hats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

Black-bordered handkerchiefs are worn
with crepe or plain black: also onyx jew
eIry, silk watch guard and white isse
for neck and sleeves.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

For general wear fair-sized as wei as
extremely small toques will be worn,
some of the newest being of changeable
straw in a coarse basket weave
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

49, ESIDES being essentially simple
b in construction. the peasant
garb, which is SO decided note
in the present and the incoming
rr,,cnts nresentS CertaiD pecu-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

Among the hand-woven rugs are those
made from strips of table oilcloth. They
are cool for summer and are in favor
for verandas or porches.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

The thin muslin collar. appliqued or
inset with lace or embroidered motifs. is
tse latest conner in the round styles.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

AS a. rule afternoon hats are large. with
wide, rolling brims. forming most lovely
background for the face.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

Sleeves tucked in groups with landings
showing handwork separating the groups
are seen in some of the new gowns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

The lace dress, whether of chantilly or
other hand-run laces. will undoubtedly be
a feature of the coming season.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-22

There are big wired bows of chantilly.
like graceful butterflies, which are being
shown on many of the new millinery
models
Union County courier. [volume] (Elk Point, Union County, D.T. [S.D.]) 187?-1913, 1910-08-04

| while returning from Jefferson to hi
home across the river in Iowa His
team became frightened at an automo
bile, throwing him Out and dragging
| him for some distance through q
sbarbad-wire fence. tie was brought
back to jefferson 10 the Commercial
Hotel, where he is under the doctor &
care.
AT meeting of the r. N. A. Lodge
last Wednesday after noon, three new
membeIs were adopted, Mrs. Mayme
BeatOn, Mas LeOna Dereuleau and
kathryn O'Hara. After the lodge
work was over a social hour was spent
and refreshments we're served. Mrs.
Charles Beauch. min, a June bride,
was presentel with a cut glass sugar
ami dreamer, by twenty Royal Neigh
! Dor friends and sterling silver sOuve-
mir spoon by the camp Another class
will be adopted at the next meeting.
Union County courier. [volume] (Elk Point, Union County, D.T. [S.D.]) 187?-1913, 1910-08-04
Life on Panama Canal

has had one frightful drawback-mala
ria trouble-that has brought suffering
and death to thousands. The germs
cause chile, fever aud ague, billousness
jaundice, lassltude, weakness and gen
eral deb llty. But Electric Bitters never
falls to destroy them and cure malaria
troubles. 'Three bottles completely
cured me OF q very severe attack o.
malaria" writes VIM. A. Fretwell, oil
Lucama, N. c., land I've had good
health ever since" Cures Stomach
Liver and Kidney Troubles, and pre-
Yeats Typhoid. SOC. Guaranteed by
the Pioneer Drug Co.