Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1910-09-30
HOW TO MAKE SOUP.
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The cardinal principle in soup
making is to extract all the nourish-
meIt from the meat or bones. which
are the stock" otherwise the basis
of the dish.
To the failure to do this is to be
attributed much of the disrel.sh for
this excellent article of food for
which Americans are proverbial. A
witty epicure once called a dinner
party that did not begin with soup
of any kind, an acephalous feast.
1t lacked a head, in his eyes.
If we knew how to make better
soups and practiced what we knew,
they would soon become as essential
part of our daily fare as they are
in other civilized countries. So
much of what passes in private
houses anu in country hotels as soup
is little better than seasoned dish
water, that the aforesaid disrelish is
abundantly explained. How well we
recollect the wretched travesties of
the real thing, and how rebellious is
the educated diaphragm in the men,
ory! Watery. mottled with big
globules of grease, with thin re-
siduum of rice or barley, or, per-
chance. of peas and cubes of carrots.
that give it q local habitation and q
name among edibles, what wonder If
those whose acquaintance with the
soup tribe is based upon the dish
water" decline further association p?
A burly. well-to-do farmer who sat
opposite to me at o mountain hotel
some years ago voiced the senti-
ments Of his class upon this subject.
Soup, sir?" said the glib wait
ress in his ear. Mutton, tomato or
chicken soup?"
"Nyther. if you please I" uttered
the independent citizen with deliber-
ate emphasis. When Ieat. | want
something that has some substance
into it'll"
So say we, all of us! The initial
step in our lesson is to learn how to
put the substance into" the soup.
A good soup stock is made by cut
ting ginto small cubes a pound of lean
beef and the same quantity of lean
veal, adding to these a beet bone full
of marrow and we'll cracked, that the
Substance" may be extracted from
the heart Of the bone.
II could never do much with
bones," the matron of q boarding
home for working women remarked
carelessly to me-. explanatory OF q
heap of raw and cooked bones the
cook was tossing into the garbage
pail. when the meat is off they
are just oaal-nothiug else."
Yet she had a pct dog that would
gnaw greedily and happily for an
hour upon . discarded bone and fat
tened upon the juices he got there
from. She had heard q hundred
times and quoted as often the say
ing: "The nearer the bone tho
sweeter the meat without ever
asking Why it had gained q place
among the worlds truisms.
Crack the bone Into halt q doaen
pieces, then out. not chop. the meat.
II minced. 1t has o tendency to clog
in cooking, forming masses that are
scared on the outside and underdone
in the middle. Prepare at the same
time half u cupful of carrots, cut into
squares; turnip. likewise cut into
small bits; an onion minced fine and
a stalk Of celery. out into half-inch
lengths. Lay these in cold water
for an hour and then drain. Put
into q pot Of boiling water and cook
one minute to take away the rank
earthly taste that clings to raw vege-
tables which have grown under
ground. The flavor of the "stock"
will be far more delicate for the brief
parboiling. Drain the chopped veg
etables; add them ia the meat and
bones. o0ver deem with cold water
and put over the fire. A gallon Of
water is none too much for the guam
titles Of meat and bones Of which I
have spoken. Cover the pot closely
and set where it will not reach the
boiling point under an hour, yet will
be heating steadily. After it be-
girs to simmer and sing hold the
heat steady, still, for another hour.
Increase then until the simmer is the
gentlest OF hubblings. To boil soup
stock fast and hard is to ruin it.
The practiced ear Of the cook who
her business detects in
an instant the accelerated motion OF
the buildings and arrests it.
Here. l pause to say. is the prime
of the fireless cooker in
soup-making. After the stock has
boiled for twenty minutes the pot.
BY closely fitting lid, Is set
within the cooker and the upper lid
Is sealed fast. At the end of six,
seven or ten hours the contents will