Bisbee daily review. [volume] (Bisbee, Ariz.) 1901-1971, 1910-07-16

put around the skirt Just above the
ankle TO draw all the fullness re-
naming into absurdly small width.
These skirts are very hard to
make. although at first glance they
may not seem to be so. All lines run
up and down as much as possible,
flaring slightly towards the hem. but
being held in place by band or fo'd
OF the material This makes il diffi-
cult to give the requisite air OF
style to the gown. But. for all that
very few long skirts are to be seen.
Many gowns intended for daytime
wear have no trains at all. and those
that cannot be called short lie on the
floor.
Smoke gray voiie nlnon. a material
that lends itself TO dressmaking
more easily than mousseline de sole.
is being employed in the latest mod
els for the summer A charming
design is carried out Of gray voile
over a foundation skirt Of white taf-
feta covered with creamy mousseline
de sole that gives a warm tone to
the general effect of gray.
II the short skirt is difficult to
make so as to look well. the new
waist is a puzzle. II is universally
cut in one with the sleeve. The XII
mono sleeve / sthe general outline.
but with a bunchy fullness under the
arm being avoided by a seam. The
desired effect is produced by always
making the waist over a fitted lin
ing. with sleeves cut IN the regular
shoulder seam. over the taffeta
comes the white mousseline de sole.
and then the voile. slightly gagged
at the waist and finishing at the hem
with a four-inch band of gray taf-
feta. The bodice Is made entirely Of
white lace-Valenciennes. Malines,
Chanti'ly or any thin filmy weave
and shaped like an ordinary blouse
than can be worn with or without the
smoke-gray voile dress over this
lace blouse are crossed braces OF
colored ribbon. toile de Jouy. or rose
cretonne. veiled with the gray. trans
parent material. givin just the touch
Of underlined color that makes the
dress attractive.
The sleeves are OF the transparent
lace. without a lining. covered with
the voile. A gray satin scarf. lined
with white satin. is draped around
the shoulders and fails in long ends
from the arms. tightly held across
the back with the pretty movement
some women know so well. and q
gray hat and white gloves made the
preitiest Of toilets.
Satin scarfs are worn a great dea'
in Paris. From morning till nigh
the graceful width of satin lined viii
white is seen on each toilette of th'
day. and again with the low dress al
dinners or receptions. The scar
matches the dress an color but Il
I invariably OF the softest satin. b
the dress in mousse,ine de sole Of
embroidered lawn.
Maline is used to an ever increas
/ ing extent as the season advances
not only for yelling flowers and feath
ers on hats. but for bows and loopi
/ on hats. for neck bows and for veil
ing entire costumes It has a distinc
place.
The rosette on the plain sailo1
/ hat gives all the richness necessary
Folder like a rose in round shape
a bias piece OF Persian silk has beer
so manipulated that its final ef
feet would suggest both expense an'
art.
Tailored costumes with the whit
linen OF the fine hair striDes Of blacl
or color are remarkably smart !
made up with piping of plain linel
matching the colors Of the hair Inc
! Some of the pretty foulard petit
coats are finished with laee-trimme'
ruffles. A muslin tuffle under tn
outer ruffle he'Ds to lengthen tn
i life Of the skirt
The short coats range in lengtl
from hip to within two inches o
the knees. So far the really shor
coat and the Eton jacket have no
( gained any secure position.
4 The new corset is good dea
lower in the bust than was the cas-
last year. Its waist is still long. an
! it's hips are arrow. straight and lone
Gilt buttons are used for trimming
as well as for the fastenings on III
trim linen suits for young girls.
Florence Fairbanks.