Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-13

and drawn evenly and tightly for the machine
never tircs-it draws the thread as strongly IN
the evening ~ IN the morning Every revolution
Of the shuttle forms lorkstitrh ~ s,e,,
strength. which holSs tse welt upper and insole
securely together.
me Gn"drear Universal Inscam Trimming Ma
rhine nov trims the surplus portion ~ the welt
and UPPER smoothly down To the stitches. and IN.
GOODYEAR Welt Beatcr and sIasher force. the
wet to stand out evenly from the edge Of ,ne
shoe The Goodyear Shank Welt ssiyer thin,
on the welt at the shunk. and a specially pre-
pared materiai f. spread over the insole To- form
partial cushion for the foot.
Rubber Cement AppIicd.
The entire bottom Of the shoe is now coated
VT. runner cement from the Star cemenrnx
Machine. and the heavy ouisoIe. made from the
most carefully tanned selected sole leather. IN.
rough or flesh side Of which has been co,,sa
win cement. is nodded into shane ard nres.ea
securely into position by the t;ooirear Impreve6
Twin Sole Laying Machine where IN Is allowed
70 remain a sufficient time for the cement ia
SCI. The next operation Is that IL trimming
the sole and welt that they protrude n un,.
form distanc. from the edge Of the shoe piv,av
shape to the sole. Stimuli, aneously win rho
rounding operation the machine cuts a LITTLE
channel slit along the edge Of the ou,s,a. 4,
much the same manner as the work was done
on the insoIe.
ms portion Of the work VS. formerly n very
difhcuit and costly operation by hand. bur seem.
simplicity Itself when the operation Ia mar
formed on this machine. The rounding operatior
simply includes that portion Of the shoe N
which the welt has been sewed leaving the out
side at the heel without a tension This nor.
tion is FIRST nailed to the shoe on the Ioose
Mailing Machine. from which small brass nails
automatically driven and spaced. are ciipched
against the steel heel OF the last
The surplus PORTION OF the leather 4. 49,,
trimmed on on the Heel Sea-. Rounding Ma
chine. and the little channel cut BY the knife
OF the Rough Rounding Machine is turned up %
as TO leave the channel open for the utsie
GOODYEAR Universal Channel Opening Machine.
In which a little wheel turning very rapidly
lays the liz smoothly back. The outsoie is now
sewed 10 the welt. This operation In mar
formed on the Goodyear OUTSIDE Rapid Lock
stitch Machine. which is very similar in opera
ticn TO the Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine used
in sewing the welt to the shoe
Durable Lockstitch.
The stitch. however. is finer and extends from
the channel which cut for il to the upper
side OF the welt where 1t shows after the shoe
has been finished The Iocksttch formed by
this machine is a most durable one: using q
thoroughly waxed thread. il holds the outsole
securely in place. even after the connecting
stitches have been worn OF. In is one OF the
most important machines in the shoemaking
process. In connection with this machine there
IS also a Bobbin Winder, which winds the bob
bin used In the rotary shuttle Of the machire
coating Of cement is applied inside the
channel inst used in stitching and after IL has
been allowed to properly set the lip is smoothly
laid down by the Goodyear Channel Laying
Machine.
The next operation is that OF lereling which
IS performed on the Automatic Sole Levelinx
Machine. one Of the most interesting used in
the shoemaking process 1t is n double machine
and by its use a vibrating roll passes over the
sole OF the shoe under heavy pressure covering
every portion Of the sole aud shank and after
completing its operation the shoe is automat-
ically dropped from it's position beneath the
roll. 1t removes every possibility Of unevenness
in the bottom of the shoe. The shoe
ceives it's heel. which with the exception Of the
top lift. has already been prepared. IL Is
cured In place by the American Lightning Heel
ing Machine. by means OF which all the heel
nails are driven at time and cinched in
ada CHI Tha hua Safr ha all lar
above the heel as 10 retain the
top lift. which is also pressed into place this
machine. As it is pressed down over the heads
of the nails they do not show On the surface Of
the top lift.
Shoe Struggling Machine.
The next machine drives the small pieces OF
brass or other metal which protect the top lift
from wear and which are called sIugs. This is
done by the Universal Singing Machine. They
are accurately placed ut any desired number
the machine automatically driving and cutting
them on as they drawn from a continuous
cord or wire. The TOP lift. which was sccu-
rately placed on the Heeling Machine. also
serves a guard for the Ultima Heel Trim
ming Machine. in which a rapid revolving knife
cuts away all the rough and surplus portions of
the leather. leaving the edge OF the heel smooth
with the exact contour intended. The edges Of
the sole are now trimmed the Modal "A"
Edge Trimming Machine. and a series OF inden-
tations made along the surface OF tine welt be-
tween the stitches to give the shoe a much more
pleasing appearance and finish. This work Is
lone on the Goodyear Welt Indenting and Bur
,ishing Machine.
The shoes from this point pass through q va
iety Of operations. varying with the factories il
which they are made. intending TO bring every
,ortion TO the highest and most durable finish.
after all In completed the last. which has bees
llowed to remain In the shoe. II withdrawn and
he FINAL dressing and finishing administered.
% that the shoe stands forth a perfect product.
In every portion of the world IL will be found
hat wherever the highest grade Of footwear 10
made this same process and the same machines
re employed. varying only in unimportsnt de-
ails. and that the Goodyear Welt Shoe Is es-
eemed the highest type Of footwear In appear
nee. comfort and wear the world has ever
oown.-Advt