davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08
The Russian Fad Started on the French Stage
Mary Garden the Queen Of Fashion Settlers :.
War Time Styles Likely to Follow Helena
Richie Anna Held'S $4,000 Fur Coat.

A few women went so far as to initiate
the parted hairdressing Of Cleo de Merode,
with the straight locks drawn sleekly
down over the ears, but this style proved
frightful on most of its imitators and
was soon dropped. Only 4 beauty could
stand this severe style. which makes the
forehead look unduly high and gives the
chin peaked. sharp appearance.
From Madame Sorel, a favorite Partisan
actress, have been borrowed the coronet
braids which encircle the head. Miss Mary
Gardens Egyptian hairdressing in Salome
was responsible for the brief-happily
6rtef-revival of the bang last winter.
Few women's faces could stand the ter
rlblc test of a hard line of clipped hair
across the top of the forehead. Miss
Garden also introduced in Salome the
metal bandeau crossing the brow. and
these bandeaux have remained in various
forms up to the present moment.
Janice Meredith and Her Curl.
All of US remember the fascinating Janice
Meredith curl which dropped coquettishly
over one shoulder. This little shoulder
curl has periodic revivals under various
names, for the style is so entrancingly
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

carved with heads in bias relief in the
familiar cameo fashion. but had strange
oriental hieroglyphics of the paler pink
top stratum showing in delicate relief
against the darker stone beneath. These
canoes were set in heavy rings of dull
silver and were so smart and individual
that doubtless the fad will become very
popular one, and initials, monograms and
crests will be carved in the stone.
Genuine hand-carved canoes are becom-
ing more and more costly, for the old
cameo cutters whose exquisite craft was
at it's height of popularity more than
century ago. are rapidly dying OF. and
their places are not being filed by
others There is a new method Of cut
ting the hard cameo by machine which
produces very satisfactory results, though
the carvings are not as delicate or in
such sharp relief as in the hand-carved
patterns.
Byzantine Jewelry is particularly fash
ionable at present, and q pronounced
feature Of this Jewelry is the eombina-
ton of blue stones with dull-gray mount
ings. Turquoise set in oxidized silver
and platinum is extremely fashionable,
and turquoise ornaments are used as
clasps and buckles on many of the win
ter costumes. So long as the turquoise
remains bIue It is one of the most ex-
quisite of stones, but the pity is that the
cerulean blue is apt to fade into sickly
green Moisture of any kind is very
harmful to the turquoise, and such stones
should never be touched with water. The
hand wearing turquoise ring should
never be placed near the face where the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08
bel Barrymore Usually
POatrayS the GRande Dame
RzQzD R%<lxIEZ~

terialize. Just now the Russian vogue
holds the center of the sartorial stage
and many of the costumes on the dra-
matte stage are along Russian lines. In
the Fourth Estate" Miss Pauline Fred
ericks wears a Russian blouse street cos
tune which has excited much admiration.
This costume, in the new wood-brown
tones which are being taken up by high
class dressmakers, is of broadcloth ana
velvet, with trimmings Of skunk fur. The
skirt, which trails little all around, has
a knee-depth hem of brown velvet. ana
the hip-length jacket of broadcloth has
panels at back and front of the velvet.
The brown furs add much elegance to this
toilette, and Miss Fredericks also wears
a big brown hat of velvet and plumes.
Mary Garden and Anna Held have botn
arrived from Paris with superb coats OF
fur which are on the very latest Partisan
lines. Miss Gardens coat is Of sealskln
and falls to her ankles. It is trimmed
with skunk fur of beautiful, fluffy quality,
and is altogether an ideal cold-weatner
coat Miss Anna Held's new coat Is OF
sable and is magnificent One hundred
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

affects. 1t is just this contrast between
the character she portrays and the frocks
she wears that constitute one Of Miss
Starts strongest appeals in THE Easiest
Way" Did she dress up to the part of
the woman whom she is supposed to repre-
sent, in famboyant and fast habiiments.
not half so many tears would be shed by
her sympathetic feminine audiences
Popular Fads.
Two popular actress fads this winter
the Edna May tie-a crisp little fur
cravat which is jaunty and becoming
with its tabled ends-and the Coed school
dress, worn by Miss Elsie Janis last sum-
mer. The Coed dress has taken the
younger girls by storm, and its loose
tunic, buttoned up around the lower edge
over a short, killed skirt, is seen in
every school throughout the country now.
The cost of stage dressing is almost
unbelievable 1t is said that nearly two
hundred thousand dollars worth or cos
tunes are displayed behind the footlights
every night in New York during the sea-
son, and the brilliant dresses of one
ballet at the Hippodrome alone represent
ten thousand dollars. Miss Maxine FL
lot and Miss Lillian Russell often spend
the same amount of money for a single
frock, and frequently the costumes worn
by an important star at production
where smart clothes are the rule foot up
to four or FIVE thousand dollars
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

becoming and girlish that women will
not allow it to stay buried long. II the
dressmakers do succeed in bringing about
their long prophesied Louis VI. vogue
no doubt the Janice Meredith curl, dubbed
perhaps the Marie Antoinette.' or the
La Lamballe," will be with us once
again. Miss Anglin in Helena Richie"
wears one OF these fascinating curls trail
ing over her shoulder and it adds ma
terially to the charm of her quaint early
Victorian costumes.
Helena Richie Gowns for Summer
Time.
The "early Victorian fad is likely to
crop up when summary frocks come under
consideration. Already ruf1ed and gath
cred skirts are beginning to appear in
debutante evening frocks for Palm Beach
wear, and the delightfully."- feminine cos
tune which Miss Anglin wears in the
second act is sure to be a model for
other frccks in the pretty figured batistes
which are appearing on the summer
dress goods counters. This frock of pink
sprigged India muslin mas series of
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

~ NE of the perQuisites of dramatic
success is the privilege of setting
fashions. Once let woman become
" famous on the stage and her gowns
her hats. the way she does her hair
snd the way she carries her handbag are
all zealously initiated by her satellites
In France the stage is very tmpor-
tant factor in the setting Of fashions. All
of US know how the Moyenage mode OF
a winter ago followed Immediately upon
the production Oh lie Bon Roi Dagobert
for which the gorgeous costumes were
designed by Redfern. This couturier Is
past master of stage costuming- Dozens
of his frocks and wraps have become IA
NOUS through the stage medium. for once
a tyne of ra1ment becomes the craze with
theaterRoers, the couturier who originated
it is besieged by eager women who de-
mand other costumes In its pattern for
themselves.
The Russian Fad Started on the
Stage.
A striking instance of this power of the
French stage In style decisions was the
sudden leap to favor of the Russian gar
ments last summer, when all the world
was ripely ready for the Louis XIV. and
XVI. styles carefully prepared by the
dressmakers-and up the sleeves, or
rather substantially represented in the
workrooms of the big costume manufac-
turers IN this country. At this crucial
moment popular Paris fancy, being tickled
by the fascinating garments worn by the
company of st. Petersburg singers and
dancers then performing, demanded Rus
sian clothes exactly like those admired
on the boards, and in a trice the wind
veered and a Russian tidal wave COM
pletely swamped the well-launched ship
of Louis modes.
The American Actress Sets IndI-
viduaI Styles.
American stage styles are not so sweep
ing in their influence for America has
not yet either the sartorial independence
or the equipment in ways and means for
setting her own fashions. Here and there.
however, a stage dress fad is taken up
con amore, by the admirers Of some pop
ular actress, and becomes the hit Of the
hour in a twinkling.
We have with US now the Billy Burke
curls, the Margaret Anglin sash. and
many other fads of this sort have been
set by actresses. There was the Ethel
Barrymore earring, for example-the long,
swinging ear ornament which Miss Barry
more affected in ''Alice-Sit-by-the- Fire;
there was the Peter Pan shirtwaist; the
Rob Roy turban, the Nazimova scarf. The
inimitable Sarah Bernhard has set IN
Vulnerable styles-the long. wrinkled
sleeve called 'mousquestaire," being per-
haps the most notable.
HairdressiDE Fads Directly Trace
able to the Stage.
Many a modish hairdressing is orlgi-
mated by popular actress; the pity
of it being that the mode of coiffure,
immensely becoming to the type of face
for which it was designed, is sadly try
ing and even bizarre on many of the wo-
men who adopt IT,
Cnvelieri's parted hair, simply arranged
At the back Is ideal on this artists
classic head; and just now the Cavelieri
cgi6ure In Madonna style is the craze.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08
BZ12LC LZzZDQp
III LAzvu0 21T ZZsZ1zZzZs2T

moisture from the breath will affect the
stone.
Lapis lazuIi is another blue much used
with the platinum and oxidized settings
of Byzantine jewelry. Lapis lazuhi cum
buttons are very smart, and there are
also heavy rings, pendants and oriental
necklaces.
At the race meets at Trouville late In
August fabulously rich Indian some
body wore in his draped turban a huge
cabochon of lapis lazuli set in dull sill
yer, and a smaller, similar ornament,
dangled over his forehead. Those silver
and blue ornaments, one dangling from
the other, were put on early fall turbans
by Reboux, and now the silver and blue
ornament is a feature of winter hats.
Turquoises are for the blonde woman.
and lapis lazun for the brunette with
clear skin. Turquoise is the favorite
stone Of the Egyptians, and Cleopatra
is said to have been very fond of the
pale blue turquoise. When blue jewelry
is becoming it is very becoming; but 1t
is not becoming to every woman and
blue necklace or brooch should never be
worn without first testing the color with
ones own coloring in every possible
light.
The trouble with colored jewelry is
that it may be worn only with certain
costumes; yet, on the other hand, the in
jewelry makes it possible to have orna-
ments to harmonic with every gown. A
woman at the opera the other evening
wore q chiffon costume In lime green.
the new pale green color that Is like
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

ruffies clear to the waist and the waist
itself looks enticiugly small, rising above
these bouffant ruffies and encircled by
soft sash of pink satin ribbon. The sash
ends, tabled in the old style rounded
fashion, fall only to the knee. Shirrings
over cords are another feature of the early
Victorian period in dress and we are
likely to see also batistes and soft voiles
shirred in this graceful manner
In the Noble Spaniard" Miss Gertrude
Coghlan also wears some captivating
time costumes. Her hounced frocks, curls
and poke bonnets are deliciously feminine,
and the scene where. in a genteel draw
room, with chairs udily protected by
crocheted antimacassers and pressed flow
ers carefully covered with glass shades.
Miss Lucy sings touching ballads to her
young man in a ruffled shirt front and
black satin choker. is altogether delight
full.
Costly Furs Worn on Stage Co.'S
tunes.
The Victorian styles, however, are in
allegiance until the summary frocks ma
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

and ten skins were used to make this coat
and the huge muf matching it, and the
cost is said to have been ten thousand
dollars. Miss Julia Marlowe also wears
superb sealskin and skunk coat and
big round turban of the skunk fur, trimmed
at one side with dangling dull gilt or
nament.
Mary Garden the "Queen of
Fashion"
Miss Garden is said to set more STYLES
than any other. woman since the days of
the famous beauty reign of the lovely
Empress Eugene, who was at the zenith
of her career about 1870. Mary Gardens
black dinner frock, in which she appeared
at various restaurants last winter had
the transparent yoke and sleeves cut in
one, without shoulder or arm seams, which
Is fad just now and promises to con-
tinue the rage all summer. This actress
Is critically particular about every detail
OF her underwear, which is built to outline
her figure and not interfere with the
lines of her gowns. Her costumes are
built without Innings, but her corsets are
made by the French couturier who builds
her gowns, and are worn only over Italian
silk undergarments of the softest char
acter.
The Actress Dresses Up to Her
Type.
The woman who undertakes to initiate
a stage dress fad should be very certain
LudL II SultS uSE style. Ilore are WOm-
en- and women, and what will be en-
trancing on a winsome Billie Burke type
of woman would be ridiculous on Juno
like creature weighing 100 pounds. No
matter what character she represents the
clever actress always has her costumes
conform to her personality-her peculiar
type of charm. The three Toscas playing
this winter, Mile. Destinn. Miss Farrar
and the young Sandman singer Nine.
Carmen Melis, are all gowned differently,
yet each is a satisfactory Tosca, and the
costume of each well accords with the
wearer's particular beauty.
Billie Burke is the idol of the debu-
tantes who copy her pretty little frocks
and couuettish hats, and eagerly watch
for each new sartoria1 expression of her
gay and charming personality. Miss
Maude Adams and Mrs. John Fox, Jr-
on the stage Miss FRITZ Scheff-are both
copied by petite women, though these ac-
tresses are quite different in type. Miss
Charlotte Walker is type of the South
ern woman that always charms by the
grace and simplicity of her costumes
Miss Grace George. also somewhat of this
! gracious and feminine type, wears most
lovely gowns and hats and sets many
\ fashion.
| The picture of Miss Frances Starr
shows the girlish type of this actress and
the simple, youthful costume style she
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

- HE safest place for diamonds is IN
the deposit box at the bank, and
there most of the gems of the grande
~ monde are securely repoSing at
present, while couture, corsage and
fingers are decked with no less beautiful
and vastly more interesting ornaments.
individuality in jewelry is now the fad.
and those women who make themselves
blazing targets of brilliancy at the opera
by the glitter of their diamonds are sub
ject to invidious criticism as being
mediocre in taste Rarely interesting are
the jewelers. windows now. in which one
may feast the eye and the artistic sense
on savagely beautiful barbaric and orien-
tai effects, instead of being compelled to
gaze at the everlasting array of conven-
donal diamondset tiaras, sunbursts and
bracelets which were displayed on mo-
notonous velvet cushions of yore. Instead
of those exorbitantly priced baubles, the
jeweler shows now wonderfully colored
stones In cabochon effects, set in hand
wrought Byzantine Indian and Egyptian
mountings of dull-toned metal.
Platinum is just now the craze. and the
arts anu crafts jewelry. with hand
wrought barbaric settings of platinum
enclosing cabochons of golden topaz, deep,
mysterious amethyst; cool, crafty Chinese
jade, lapis lazuli in the sun-kissed blue
of the Aegean Sea and the sunrise pinks
Of cameo is most beautiful. Much of this
jewelry is made by women, and the dainty
handicraft has become a regular feature
in many of the technical art schools.
Some canoes recently displayed in an
exclusive jewelers. window were not
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08
A WATCH SHAPED LIKE A CUFF
BUTTON.

- ONE very smart new motor coats have
been sent home, with tiny watches
~ shaped like a campaign button and
slipped through a buttonhole worked In
the sleeve cuff. Thus the tiny watch face
is always visible to the fair motorist, and
there is no necessity of fumbling within
the coat with benumbed fingers when it
is desirable to know the hour. The watch
may be also worn in a buttonhole In the
coat lapel, but inserted in the cuff it is
more easily consulted by its wearer. The
little timepiece is said to keep remark
ably good time, though the dial Is but
half an inch in diameter.
A BOOK OF JOKES FOR THE BOY.
:" LITTLE volume of fresh, clean
jokes will make a good addition TO
y 3 the boys birthday gifts. Every boy
loves to be considered ssoker and the
more good jokes he has at his tongues
end the happier he is Buy small ad-
dress book and begin filling it in with all
the good jokes you hear. The boy VIII
take the cue and write in his book all
the funny things he hears, the appropri-
ate toasts and dinner speech jokes and
in time should acquire very interesting
collection.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

nothing so much as the pale green paper
In which ordinary pins are purchased
This green chiffon tunic was caught at
knee and bust with hoops Of dull silver
set with sunken jade and pearls, and the
ornaments had a distinction and dell
cacy of design which proclaimed them as
heirlooms.
Abyssinian. Byzantine and Indian orna-
ments are now more fashionable than
those of Egyptian design; the Egyptian
symbols Of scarab, lotus flowers and
winged hawk having been made common
place by repeated limitations In the
cheaper grade of jewelry. The new orna-
ments which have displaced that standby
of the jewelers-the diamond-from my
ladyss favor have been rendered suh-
GENTLY costly by intricate hand workman
ship and the introduction of pearl set
tings, to suit both the enterprising jewell
er and the fastidious purchaser who dis
dams a gift that does not convey his re-
gard in q suggestion of substantial Ameri-
can dollars.
A Fifth avenue jeweler carries Indian
rings set with blue diamonds at $4,000;
black opal necklaces, with platinum and
diamond settings, at 1000" and other
trihing things in the shape Of sapphire
and platinum scarfpins as low as $1,000.
Thus may the plutocrat find expression
for his sentiment and win the favor OF
his lady's discriminating taste.
The jewelry owned by some of the
greater actresses is extremely interesting,
much Of this jewelry having been de-
signed to carry out certain character
types. The ornaments worn by Nine. Ger
Vile Reache in ''Herodiade'' are splendid
in color, and Miss Geraldine Farrar In
her new role of ''Tosca' wears a superb
coronet and breast ornament with ca
bochon stones. set in duh metal. A pic
ture of Miss Farrar In these ornaments
and the pearl embroidered s'Tosca'' cos
tune is shown.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1910-01-08

Miss Mary Macarthur. secretary of the
British Woman's Trade Union League,
was one of the speakers at the conven-
ton Of the National Woman's Trade
Union League. in Chicago.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1910-04-28
NEAR MINE SETTLEMENT
Only a Few Left to Be Agreed Upon
* Des Moines Scale
Conference.

Des Moines, April 27.-(SpeciaD -
The coal miners won victory in the
joint conference with the operators to-
day when the pay for room turning in
hard coal was raised from $3.15 to
1892 and in soft coal from $2.S1 to
$297. For double shift work the men
won again getting an advance OF twen-
ty-five cents a yard. Coalvale and Kilo
will receive the same price as last
year for mining with an exception OF
seven and one half cents for extra
work At Collins, for lump the miners
will get 1.3O a ton in place of $1.25
the old wage scale.
Only few details, with the excep-
tion of the deferred questions, remain
to be settled before the agreement in
the contract for the fourth subdistrict
and the general resolutions are COM
pleted.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1910-04-28
BRYCE IS GUEST
OF DES MONIES
DELEGATION FROM CAPITAL CITY
GOES TO GRsNNELL TO
GREET HIM.
Des Moines Bureau OF
Iowa Evening Press,

Des Moines, April 81.
Ambassador James Bryce Is the
guest of Des Moines today. The noted
.Englishman, after visiting the State
university at Iowa City and Iowa col.
lege at Grinnell, arrived in the city
late this afternoon, accompanied by
a reception committee of d stinguish.
ed Des Moines people which went to
Grinnell after him in special car at.
tached to the regular Rock Island
train.
Upon his arrival he was taken for
a tour of the city in automobiles fur.
nished by the city club.
This evening he will be the guest
of honor at the Savery at banquet
which will be attended by prominent
people from all parts Of the state.
The committee which went to Grin
nell today to escort him to the city
was composed of the leading people of
the city and was headed by Govern
or B. F! Carroll, President Hill M.
Bell Of Drake university, President o.
H. Longweu Of Highland Park college,
Hon. Henry Wallace, Lafe Young Sr.,
Lardner Cowles. Harvey Ingham, vii
liam Hale, James M. Pierce, Edwin
r. Meredith, Lafe Young Jr., and
many other prominent men Of the
city.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1910-04-28
DRUGGIST IS A
enon ,!.!l!l y! fitness
AGAINST HYDE
SAYS DOCTOR BOUGHT CYANIDE
OF POTASSIUM POISON WHICH
KILLED sWoPE, osTENslBLY
TO KILL DOGS.

Kansas City, Mo-, April 27.- Cya'
nide of potassium, the deadly poison
which the state accuses Hyde Of civ
ing Swope, causing his death, was
purchased by Hyde in September'and
a druggist, according to the testimony
| of the latter and three Of his en-
ployes, Hyde purchased total Of 20
5-grain capsules of the poison from
Brocklein. So dangerous was. this poi
son and so rare was the sale of it in
capsule form, said Brocklein, that he
at once Informed Hyde Of it's deadly
qualities and told him unless he prom.
ised to handle the capsules himself
and thrown away what he did not use
he would refuse to sell them to him
Hyde, according to the druggist. said
he was acquainted with the nature OF
the poison and wanted only to kill
dogs with 1t.
Lucy Lee Swope, another sister-in.
law OF DR.. Bennett Clark Hyde, charg.
ed the physician with trying to kill her
Miss Swope was in New York on her
way to Europe when the typhoid cpl
demic broke out in her home. DR.
Hyde went to New York to bring her
home to Kansas City, and it is charg
ed that he gave her typhoid-infected
water on her way home.
The witness made a direct accusa
tion against DR.. Hyde.
"Dr. Hyde and I left New York Tor
Kansas City December 15.'' said Miss
Lucy Lee Swope on the stand. II had
stateroom in the sleeping car. Soon
after leaving New York I complained
of being thirsty.
"T have a folding cup here that
Frances sent you DR.. Hyde said to me
(Frances IS Mrs. B. Clark Hyde.) III
| ge.r.Ss> !. 3; - K tdrinksof water.
Y He Nv snh ii aseIcof1, vas gs,se, iol
| few moments and then came back
with the drink Of water. I drank
freely.
"Just about week from the time
that drank the water DR.. Hyde gave
me wasn't feeling very well. The
next day I went to bed. had
typhoid fever and was i'll in bed for
twenty-four days"
Two trained nurses testified that
DR.. G. r. Twyman, who died suddenly
last week, ordered all the medicine he
had prescribed for the members of the
Swope family destroyed.
"Dr. Twyman said that there was
something wrong with the medicines, "
said both nurses,
y A significant feature was the de-
velopment through cross questioning
by Hyde's lawyers that they will at
tempt to show the negro "yoodoo doc
tors" Jordan's medicines had much to
do with the sickness Of the Swope
family. Jordan is under indictment
for practicing without a license.