Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-03
The Sleeves
of 1910

!" HE sleeve of the year is not to be
lightly passed by unnoticed. It
Is an unusually beautiful part OF
the dress. and one by which both
the expert in clothes and the critical
amateur know the period of each pass
Ing gown. 1t makes a distinct appeal
to all womanly women. and even the in.
experienced have "a sort Of feeling
when sleeves are wrong.
While one great Paris modiste SAYS:
Three-Quarter sleeves, please and
another says: Long sleeves on all
morning frocks.' we. selecting from the
great output Of them all. have the adj
vantage Of striking an average by
which We make our own deduction that
coats will have long sleeves. or those
that measure almost full length: that
women who dare to call themselves well
dressed upon the street will. IL they ap-
pear in a full-fedged costume having
three-quarter sleeves. invariably cover
their arms with generous mouequetaire
gloves reaching fully to the sleeves.
The petite Parisienne" may wear her
almost-short sleeve with an afternoon
dress. but We promptly relegate the
very abbreviated to the summer party
frock. Paris does many things that
America does not.
For the pretty. dressy afternoon frock,
with hat or without it. but with its
collarless or Dutch neck. there will be
granted the privilege OF the three
quarter sleeve Of very attractive sec
tional construction and sheer though
varied material
Their makeup is a thing not to DO
lightly described In a word or two: II Is
complicated and varied. yet there are
certain points Of similarity in the out
put.
Invariably. now. the latest sleeve. un-
less narrow shoulders demand gathers
and a regulation cut. is the seamless.
It hangs down over the top of the arm
as a part Of the shoulder material. and
is then taken below the arm and scanned
in one with the under-arm seam. It
may be very short, or it may reach
the elbow, but at either point 1t Is
hemmed and from beneath 1t there
appears another section of something
more sheer. Sometimes this Is q deli
cate elbow length, ending in a band
around the lower arm. Again 1t is q
straight-fitted piece ending in hem and
q fold or band Of tiny insertion. but
these are two of its simplest forms.
The usual sleeve Of this type takes
unto itself innumerable qualities and
kinds Of sheer trimming in band form:
various tulles or laces and plain tucked
material. Variety is not condemned by
the best Of modistes. and here. If any
where. is there opportunity to use the
odd bit Of old or new material.
These delicate sections and puffs. not.
outstanding their light weight, are not
to be suspended from nothing, al
though they look SO. The usual method
with this cut Of bodice is the lining Of
its sheer yoke piece with net or NOUS
seline. to which is fastened as thin q
sleeve lining as can be made. and to
this abbreviated lining is hung the
dainty undersleeve. The lining Of yoke,
or suimpe, and undersleeve Is more
than ever a necessity. since: owing to
the queer construction OF the seamless
sleeve. 1t Is frequently necessary to
tack the shield to this lining So many
little tricks Of the trade! So much to
learn! Yet SO easy TO master by the
doing Of 1t just once or twice.