East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-06-08
FASHION LETTER BY
CATHERINE PAYZANT. I


New York, June S.-For certain
purposes nothing seems to have ta-
ken the place of the shirtwaist.
a number of shirt waist models
have been designed that cover many
uses. They may be used for separ-
ate wear with odd skirts or as a part
of a shirt waist suit. For their con-
struction a great variety of materials
in wash goods are offered and the wo-
man who can make her own shirt
waists may have a great variety.
One of the first materials that
comes to mind is the linen which
comes in all the fashionable colors
as well as in white. From the heav-
ier sort in white for wear with a coat
and skirt suit was one with a box
plait down each side of a plain front
panel An odd conceit was a shoulder
yoke that started from the center of
the neck back and front decorated
round its edges with simulated but
ton holes except at the left front
where the waist opened under the
eft plat and shoulder plait. Shirt
sleeves with deep pointed cuffs and
a high turned-over collar and bow
completed the waist. A white linen
belt was worn.
4 material that is much used for
service waist during the cooler wealth
er is madras and of it there are
some beautiful patterns in stripes and
jacquard figures. Some of the new
madras fabrics have borders this
spring that are used for the front
plat cuffs and belt. The collar is
usually of the mannish type though
II liked it could be made from the
bordering. A madras having a love
~ satin stripe in it was made with
y plain back. Two unstitched plaits
were laid at the edge Of the shoul-
ders and the fullness was brought
down into the belt with a few tiny
ticks in front for the waist opened
slightly on the left side with large
pearl buttons and buttonholes made
in tailored style. The turnback cuffs
were a new feature and held by cuff
links. The collar was of madras top
ped with an embroidered turnover
\ white belt Of the material and neck
bow completed the whole.
Embroidered front bands and cuffs
and belt are used on many of the
waists. 4 white pongee had a front
band soalloped on both edges and the
belt cuffs and Eton collar were dec
Grated in the same fashion. Two Glib
son plaits over the shoulders were
scalloped on both edges and the belt
cuffs and Eton collar we're decorated
in the same fashion. Two Gibson
plaits over the shoulders were seal
loped in the same style. A natural
colored pongee would have been just
as pretty and with a skirt to match
would have made n most serviceable
summer frock for the mornings on
the street or afternoons at home. SILK
waists often have little insets Of lace
motives that work up we'll \ good
many of the linen waists have mar
rowed motives Of hand embroidery be-
tween the groups of tucks, and en-
broidcry is much used on many of the
dressier modes For business wear
the palmer waist is most used, they
are Of the strictly tailored finish.
There is n natural colored lined that
is a close imitation Of the ponge5
weaves and is we'll liked for travel
Inc waists. one of the most service
able waists is a pongee in natura
color and they wash we'll and looR
quite like new if one will remember tt
iron them damp and on the wrong
side So the iron marks will not show
The mercerized foulards are among
| the prettiest materials on the market
/ for a summer semi-princess or shirt
waist suit They come in all the pat
terms of the silk varieties. For sew
ice wear the cotton voilcs make ur
! beautifully.
Among the new colors are to ht
| found beautiful blues, some of then
very bright and others again are ir
dun shades. Many green's are showr
ana some peculiar yellows.
1t is fad to combine contrasting
materials in design such rs stripes
with figures and checks with stripes
or stripes cut straight and crosswise
The satin band is seen on a grea
number Of gowns especially where
the veiled draperies are used for dec
oration.
Trimming plain materials with fig
ured fabrics is a popular fashion o
the season. One of these being tn,
decorations of a cloth suit with dot
tel foulards.