davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23
Short Skirt Gains Ground
For Both Street and Evening Wear 1t Hold
First Place Among Smart Parisiennes.

portion curved into an arch that sloped
gently into the longer side breadths. these
latter being edged with fur that continued
to the waist The effect Of this slenderiy
hung skirt. with its short wasted corsase
and a tiny shoulder cape. is decidedly
picturesque and reminiscent OF the Direc-
toire when carried out in splendid mate
rials and worn by slender. graceful Great
ures.
Also extravagantly pleasing are the
house. and at others as well-a three cor
nered bit with big. tasselied end falling
here, there or anywhere from the drapery
OF short skirt. or pointed pieces. also
tasselled dragging on each side OF short
skirt. Prettier, because saner, than these,
and likely to continue, was a train COM
posed Of one narrow breadth OF silk hang
ing loose from the waist line 10 drag sew
eral inches on the floor.
The small triple collars Of the Directoire
period have appeared again. They cover
the shoulders and fall ever so little over
the tops ouf the arms. and there are wide
fichu collars. deep enough to be called
capes, that lensthen into long revers in
front to lap c little, and close below the
waist line.
Faced with black molre and edged with a
narrow band OF fur. such collar was con-
spicuousy good on a scant Directoire coat
Of smooth black cloth. In another case the
collar was faced with black velvet and
trimmed with a thick silk ruching placed
above a short. thick fringe Of coarse silk
strands The long tight sleeves OF both
coats are buttoned to the elbow with big
bullet buttons.
All house and visiting gowns are made Of
thinnest materials. Meteor crepe. soft sat
ins silk voiles- and heavy mousselineS de
sole compose them. These beautiful ma
terials even when they show considerable
fulness, fall in the "slinky'' lines SO loved
Nearly always the skirts are edged with
fur. To wear with these calling. restaurant
and tearoom gowns long. separate coat Is
an imperative necessity Naturally. women
turn first to fur coat. and the ideal one
is the coat built on the long, scant d.
rectoire lines of breftschwanz. errnine and
chinchilla- The model is a beautiful one.
with its high collar. wide cuffs and its
waist line at the back lifted Just high
enough TO preserve the QuaintneSs OF its
period. For women who cannot afford
these regal garments the coat described
above is mOdish and handsome. other
smart coats are OF smooth cloth. silk and
velvet. trimmed with facings of thick white
cloth and handsome buttons. Known by
several names. this cloth will be best re-
membered by the American one OF pilot
cloth.
Coats for velvet street costumes. whether
extremely short or half length. fit closely
over the hips. the length being selected ac-
'cOrding TO the demands of the figure. Fur
bands and facings. buttons and handsome
cord ornaments trim them To the demand
fer such costumes there seems no end.
Is NJ. A. F.
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23

Paris. October IL.
Though with somewhat guarded utter
ances and with hints OF further develop
ments in the near future. the oracles OF
les modes have spoken, and with the
opening OF the autumn races many
things have been decided for the next
few weeks The lavish display on sunny
days at these racer Of charming gowns,
garments, furs and hats has made up
for the scanty exhibi. OF novelties at
several of the great houses on their open
ing days. This scantiness was. no doubt,
due to the strike of the 1nidinettes."
The leading houses denied that this mat
ter was a serious one, but the newspapers
have devoted considerable space to tho
doings of the strikers. of whom the
eldest at one riotous meeting. was
eighty years old, the youngest thirteen.
The demands of these important workers,
who have won much public sympathy, IS
for an increase of pay ard fewer working
hours At present their pay ranges from
one franc a day for apprentices to five
francs for skilled workers. Their working
hours count sixty week.
II seems quite certain that, for the usual
short period of time during which O
fashion can hold first place IN Paris.
skirts of walking and indoor gowns will
remain comparatively narrow, hanging
quite straight, with an appearance OF
slmness, and extremely shOrt-shorter
even than the skirts of last season Al
though appearing to be narrow these
skirts are of a width quite sufficient to
allow of ease and grace in walking.
Tailored skirts are seen with pleats set
as panels on the sides, or with closely
pressed p,eats in the middle of the back
and front, with plain side panels; but all
pleats are held tight by under fastenings
to within a few inches of the hem. One
great house exhibits a gown with SIG
sestion OF the Moyenage, in killed
skirt attached 10 a deep round hip
yoke, that appears-but is MOTTO be IN
one with the body part. In velvets, short
plain skirts are trimmed with lengthwfse
groups of stitched bands and many
buttons-quantities of them. and of all
sorts and sizes. All of these skirts are
charmingly simple in line.
Only a smiling memory and Uicturet
caricatures of it are left of the strange
"hobble skirt thus named by witty
newspapers. Of last summer Everything
by turn and nothing long" is a good
motto to apply 10 the Partisan modes Of
to-day That some things should quickly
vanish from sight Is a good thing. II
is we'll to impress upon American readers,
who look to Paris for fashion information.
the fact that no true Parisienne ever
wears in public a mode that could ky
any chance he called ridiculous. Whn1
such modes are worn in public pla res in
Paris ii is by foreigners.
TWO great houses have launched this
season gowns that. while extravagant in
design, are quite charming. with short
skirts cut still shorter in the middle OF
the front and back to show the prettily
shod feet. In one model this shortened
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23
FOR HALLOWEEN AFFAIRS

The fastidious hostess likes to use place
carus that were not In evidence last season.
ana the shops are showing several new
Styles or hand decorated cards for Hal
IoWeen anairs. Among them are elfish
LOOKING boys and girls jumping out OF big
yeiIow pumpkins, and weird black cats
mounted on pumpkins. Then there are
witches heads, with a tuft of white wool
Tor hair' and the regulation pointed black
nat full length witch waving broom
Is the decoration on another card There
are attractive Halloween postals. too. and
lots or little notions in the way of pump
kiEs. Tuit. nuts. ears OF corn, black cats.
wltcheS heads and brooms on tiny gilt pins
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23

one OF the most surprising things 10
me, said a busy woman. is that SO few
women have dummy figures on which their
seaustress and tailor can ~ork IL saves
time and strength by avoiding tiresome fit
tinss. AS | am Of normal size. I found 10
easy TO get such a figure at a shop for a
moderate sum. IL has "a stand. with a rod.
by means OF which the height can De adj
justed- ON this figure my little French
maid put one OF my old princess slips.
stuffed it~out with tissue paper so that II
fitted like paper on the wall. and now she
can do lots of making over for me whIle
am out having a good time.
From most of my friends hear constant
complaints about the time and strength
they waste at the dressmaker's but when
advise their adopting my plan they always
Insist on some speciality OF their figure
which requires the attentions OF an expert.
No cheap lodges for them.-and many OF
them have not half my income So now
no longer sympathiss when 1 hear their
tAlss Of wo~ It's thax own fault " their
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23
<-.,-r,

The deeper 1 drink OF the cup OF life,
the sweeter ii growS-the sugar all at the
bottom"
So spoke Julia Ward Howe toward the
close of the long life which ended last
week. life which had spanned three gen
erations and helped IL the making Of their
history. But she had reached ninety-One
years. an age which would terrify most
people if told they must live so long. The
friends Of her youth were long since dead,
that shining circle Of the friends Of her
prime, and the man whose wife she took
such pride in being. the famous educator
of Laura Bridgeman-an were gone. An
other civilization had grown up around her
since the days when she was a belle IN
Bond street. Yet she who was born in 1919
was happy and vigorous in 1893. There were
people who could hardly believe her testi-
mony about the bottom Of the cup 1t is
more common to ind bitter dregs'' there
than increasing sweetness. So she had to
reassure these doubtful ones.
Yes" she said, emphatic and smiling
that is quite true You see. my husband
was a very great man. and I have very
dear children, and ! have delightful grand
children; and l have two great-grandchil-
dren-and / am very fond OF little children"
Her power to enjoy carried her blithely
10 the end. and twenty years ago gave
force 70 the statement that she was "sev-
efty years young" The saying originated
with her youngest daughter Maud Howe
Elliot, in q letter she wrote inviting Oliver
Wendell Holmes to her mothers birthday
celebration.
AS for your mothers age ne wrote in
answer. 4 am bound TO believe her own
story, but l can only say. that to be 'sev-
enty years young is sometimes far more
cheerful and hopeful than to be forty
years old"
Her friends have testified countless times
to the vigCr of this later youth, and her
daughter said during the Presidential cam
paisn Of 1904: My prayer is that no one
Will ask her TO take the stump in the com
ing election. as ! fear she could not find it
in her heart TO refuse
She contributed the poem Of the oc-
casion at many Of the public festivals of
the last twenty wears. IL was she to whom
the city of New York turned when IL need
ed a poem for the Hudson-F Fulton celebra-
ton. and she read il herself at the Metro
Bolitan Opera House, a woman then nine
~ years young one Of her last public
appearances was in Boston last spring,
when she was Interested IN the passage OF
2 biz guaranteeing pIre milk to the babies
Of Boston.
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23
LACE BAGS. 4

a morning visitor at country house
found her hostess busy with mysterious
little dimity bags, that were about ten
inches square and fastened with draw
string In answer TO her query she was
told that these were lace bags" and Jhat
samples Of the kind OF laces they CON
tanned would be sewed on the edges like
tags she was furt hermore told JAat al
though The proceeding might seem fussy,
81 was a great saving OF time well as
OF lace. for these fragile bits OF trim
minS get tangled and torn il put in
q box. even IL folded al first After few
hunts for 4 particular piece the lOoseneu
ENDS seem possessed 10 knot together, and
81 requires great patience TO undo them
without tearing The edges The samples
snow justs " hat kinds OF lace are bundled
and safely pinned al ends, and just the
one bag need be opened. All the bags
are put il a large box. labelled lace
End this has a particular space in the
sewing room closet
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23
Some Woys Of. the World

1t IS often the stranger in the land that
makes the most pertinent suggestions for
the Improvement of existing conditions. A
foreigner of wealth and distinction. a recent
visitor in New York, made a suggestive
remark apropos of the scarcity OF water
just now.
Why do not you. having authority. order
that the sea water be brought into your
wonderful city and used for all purposes
except cooking. drinking and laundry he
asked. II am sure that your people would
prefer salt water baths. which could be
tempered by hot water OF the other kind,
Think OF the immense saving OF the now
scarce reservoir supply, and you would be
insured against water famines."
The native New Yorker replied that he
would not be surprised If sea water mains
were laid in course OF time New houses
might be built with plumbing 10 accommo-
date this supply. and It's might be
couraged by Offering reduced tax rates for
sea water
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23

Critics OF English she IL spoke" are
hewailing the habit OF exaggeration. which
they say Is very common. especially among
the smart set" People who have formed
this habit do not talk in any moderate way
on any subject whatsoever. say the critics.
They use superlatives In all their state
nents. and then, TO make them more ef-
fecuve, they change the wording and keep
repeating the statement, each time IA trine
faster and considerably louder. so that IL
ths listener be not deaf hs must hear. -
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23
bones are weary and they have "
GOD

bones are weary and they have
good times"
In place OF the row OF henasu'N AZ
sheet tops and towel hens. sr,oles
crochet Turkish beading. which f~,1 IA
Irish lace. but Is less expensive S.,snt
found very serviceable. IL may 20 an
from the Syrian women who sen - AZ
the streets OF from door 10 door VI -'.,.s - Of.
one OF the stores which make speeia'-, ,,,,d.
laces. 10 costs only about 10 cen's ~
Some industrious women during lHs .ssr-
mer have been erOchetins pretty "a A
tion for this purpose. They haNo 0,,nl \
spool. with pins stuck In one end' ~ssss,l
which thread Is Iooped and theh pI -s,,,I
through the hole In the centre OF tas AZ
h,st like the spools over whien 0H
ktndersarten make theiR woeiisa ~
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23

last Ii is most amusing 10 listen 10 a con-
versation between devotees OF this habit of
speech especially when the catch phrase
worse than nothing at air occurs fire.
quently. These five words are used con-
stantly. upon sll occasions and In all con-
nections. until they lose their significance
entirely. and fall hst when used for the
climax I'm tale OF mshaps or real suffer
Ing.
New-York tribune., 1910-10-23
"A, F, JAMMES,

The Unique Paris SnoP, P,,.u
has M rar,r,-a,, y, .9s FriSth Avenue ee.Sss~<
SSth and S9th sts. where We are Nv NV Tfssncnt
the most exclusive Novelties in Sii.l Si- uany
JOsillsrie and Perles Electra nc 49, sore
novelties Tor FAN Hair Dressing. Sdaals,n for
Bar pins and Hatpins. Lorgnette .s-r novel
street and Evening Wear Also, the ,tss-lss sole
ties for Mourning wear In Jet ana 'psreirnery
depot In New York for the ENluisit.- rom
and all the ESquisia creations
Paris
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15

size. to compare. to diffcrcntiate. 10
reason logically to correct conclusions.
Such abilities are essential to the
business man: he is successful or un-
successful to the extent that he has
these qualifications. He can acquire
them out of college: most men do. But
he has the opportunity of acquiring
them more readily i'm college.
1.-The highest order of mental or ply
steal development can be attained only
by following a sane and regular
regime. The orderiiness and system
of college training produces. other
things being equal. the most accurate.
logical and discriminating mind. This
is the type of mind the business world
demands. So far as the college man
accepts his training as means toward
development. rather than as an end
itself. so far can he capitalize il as a
business asset"
Surely Theodore Shonts has had ex-
perience enough in dealing with men
and in handling men to make his opin
ion worth considering.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15
BIG BULL CAMPAIGN
COLLAPSES
MOST SPECTACULAR DECLINE IN
COTTON IS WITNESSED IN
THE MARKET.

New York. Jan. 1.-THE big bull
campaign in cotton definitely col
iapscd today. with the most. spectac-
ular decline seen In week Of cratic
recessions Reports freely circulated
in the trade, after the close of the
market. had it that the position Of
the leading southern bull had been
completely undermined by the liquida-
ton that has been in progress since
early in the year. At the low point
today New York contracts showed a
decline from $500 to $3.50 a bale from
the closing prices. which was q break
Of 500 To $3.50 bale from the high
figure OF the day. and s13.35 to S14.25 a
bale from the high point of the sea-
son. May contracts touched 1870 late
i'm the afternoon
The bull market has lasted more than
year. At the height OF the cam
paign it was estimated tina; Il. q.
Scales OF Texas. the leader. had accu-
muiatcd paper profits of $I0. 1000. 900 for
the season. AZ a Christmas present,
he is said To have given $4,000 to one
OF his favorite brokers. and another
accepted story has il that he had given
si.O00,oeo in cash To one of his broth
ers His heaviest holdings were In
May cotton and he and his friends
are believed to control contracts call
ing for delivery of fully 1000, eco bales
i'm that month.
The situnation has developed into a
threa. of the greatest squeeze of shorts
ever recorded but other bulls who
had followed Mr.. Scales lead through
out. enlisting in his party. decided that
the time was ripe for a bear raid. One
after another the big accounts began
to come into the market. The Scales
party was said to have its cotton mar
gfncd down to SO cents pound, and IL
was confident yasserted that its mem
bers never would abandon their propo
sition. Events have proven. however
that the continued pressure was too
heavy. Today it was announced that
Mr. Scales was transferring his hold
ings to leading bear interests. Smaller
operators were hard .nipped. but IL is
believed the large bulls liquidated at
their average buying price for the sea
son. As soon as the news spread that
an agreement had been reached be-
tween the conflicting interests. the
market received aggressive support,
closing Mt from 20 to so points up from
the low market of today.
A much better feeling prevails in
the trade tonight and IL is thought that
auieter market may be expected for
the coming week. with prices more
generally influenced by legitimate de-
mand and supply. After the official
close, May contracts changed hands at
s14.10, compared with 1870, the low
point of the day. The mark at which
the bears are said to have taken over
the bull holdings Is $3.50 for May.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15
PULLING PROBLEM
PRESENTED
QUESTION OF ALLOWING ATTCR
News TO ATTEND INVEST
CATION DISCUSSED.

Washington, Jan. 1.-THE question
whether witnesses in the BaIlinger-
Pinehot investigation shall be per-
mitted To be represented by counsel
and. IL so, what limitation shall be
placed upon their activities is proving
serious problem to the conferces
of the senate and house, who met to-
day. II was practically decided that.
when witness found himself ac-
cused of wrong doing, he could not
be denied an attorney. 1t follows,
therefore. that MIR. Pinchot. who was
dismissed from the government serv
ice by order Of the president, would
be entitled To have his lawyer present
throughout the congressional investi-
cation. Secretary of the Interior Bal
linger. likewise. will be entitled to
have his attorneys present ut all
times.
Whether former Assistant Forester
Price. former Law officer Shaw. and
former Field Agent CLAWS viii be al
lowed counsel has not been decided.
Some members of the conference are
of the opinion that one lawyer might
be named To look after the interests
of all the dismissed government en-
ployes whose names are drawn into
the inquiry. but, no agreement was
reached on this point An effort is
being made by, the committee to pre-
bunal that would be likely to prolong
the case. There are many members OF
case. There are many members OF
congress who have no sympathy with
the inquiry as IL will delay lcsisia-
ton To conserve natural resources.
They say that IL lawyers are admitted
at all, the trial of the case will drag
They are advocates of the senate plan.
which was to shut out all lawyers and
leave the interests of principals 10 the
controversy to be looked after by
members of the investigating com
mittee. II is said that the house viii
win out on its provision that the in
aulry shall be confined to the present
session of congress, with "A report be-
fore adjournment. This is taken to
mean that, after the inquiry has been
concluded, President Taft's conserva-
ton program will be presented and
legislation enacted at this session. The
eonferees will conclude their delihera-
tions probably in time to report To the
senate on Monday
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15
IN THE THEATERS

There are some who will tell you
that you cannot, nowadays, see a play
without there is deal that Is coarse,
vulgar or immoral about it. But the
fallacy of this is again being demon
stratcd and Is once more proven UNI
true by Managers William 4. Brady
and Joseph r. Grismer, and George
Rroadhurst. the author of the power
full American play, .eThe Man of the
Hour" Neither Mr.. Brady nor Mr.
Grismer would for moment pose as
philanthropists. nor as purseyors 10
the theatrical appetite for other than
financial and artistic results, and Mr.
Broadhurst would doubtless say that
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15
ANNEXATION.

During the past two or three days.
lished Inquiries as to the outlying adj
ditions which |; is proposed to annex to
the city. In the endeavor to obtain
have sought interviews with several
men, who ere In o:ition TO be- able to
state authoritatiyely and these inter
views are printed this morning. These
interviews place the situation clearly
and succinctly before the people and.
we think. constitute a sufficient an
swer to the question which has been
propounded by the correspondents or
The Missoulian.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15

he writes plays for the profit OF it.
but each would assert that the profit
of 1t was best secured by productions
like The Man of the Hour" a play
that appeals to the best there is in
the average of human nature. THE
man of the Hour" which is now in it's
Fourth phenomenal year and comes to
the fIarUty theatcr ON next Monday.
January a. lis undoubtedly simple in
Its construction-so are all clean
things: 1t is honest, rugged. simple.
genuine: a smile. a laugh, tear, a
jolly evening with the wholesome, re-
freshing thought that the truth and
goodness In us need no fine clothes
or places for their exhibition. Plays
of this sort cannot but do good to the
body theatrical. While they are seen
their influence Is for good. and for
wholesome, hearty enjoyment.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15
Caught
Cold !!

How often il happens that s.ri-
Gus illness. ana sometimes death. is
directly tracclbie To a common cold
After IL is too late what would we
not given to have checked the cold
at the start. when ii would have
quickly yielded to simple home
treatment.
One of the most effective remedies
for coughs and colds is made by
mixing two ounces of giycerine. n
half ounce of Virgin Oil OF Pine
compound pure and eight ounces of
pure whisky. These can be bought
In any good drug store and easily
mixed in a large bottle. II Is
claimed By the Leach Chemical
company of Cincinnati. who prepare
the genuine Wright Oil of Pine com
pound pure. that a teaspoonfui of
this mixture four times a day will
break up a cold in twenty-four
hours. and cure any cough that is
durable.
The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961, 1910-01-15
STATEMENT DISCUSSED.

Washington. Jan. li.--In official
circles today a statement issued by
Clifford Pinchot. who was recently dis
missed by President Taft from the
post of chief forester of the United
States took first place among the
topics discussed 1t is not likely. it
is said. that any reply will be made
by the administration. Mr.. Pinchot be-
ing no longer in the government SER
vice. though his statement sharply
criticized the course /, has pursued.