davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19
Cornbina-

evening gowns. Many of these beauti-
fully soft materials come in robe form,
some with bands of two widths for skirt
and bodice. respectively, and others with
a length of the border design in all-over
of which to make the sleeves In case
they are not cut in one with the shoul-
ders.
or course. great many Of the trans
parent and semi-transparent materials
used for evening toilets have borderings
In classic design. the better to accord
with the Greek style of drapery, but in
this respect Dame Fashion claims a GER
tain amount of license and instead of ad-
herring strictly to conventional patterns
she is using most fascinating borders
showing odd combinations of oblongs and
ovals In metal effects with naturally col
these new borderings appear exceptional
ly long fringes OF heavy silk matching
or contrasting with the tone of the dra-
peries, and a scheme OF decoration which
is especially good with robe of bor-
dered chiffon or marquisette Is to use a
heavy fringe Of gold, silver or imitation
pearl beads. as this treatment affords
precisely the amount Of weight necessary
for drapings which might otherwise float
about in a frivolous manner not at all in
accordance with the ancient Creek
ideals of what was dignified in feminine
draperies.
To select restful tone Of color for the
evening gown is another most important
detail which occupies the fashionable
woman at this exceedingly busy season
Of the year when the necessity for con-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

canary shade in silk or chiffon broad
cloth.
odd" and original" are the terms
which best describe the tunics designed
for evening toilets to be worn after
Lent Usually they are developed III
chiffon, bordered or banded BROADLY
with satin of a shade bearing no ie-
semblance to that of the skirt over
which they are worn. Sometimes a
tunic in very delicate tone of rose.
blue or green chiffon Will be used over
a white satin slip broadly trimmed with
heavy black lace or yelled with a trans
parency in decidedly deeper tone than
the tunic and embroidered with crystal
or pearl beads or pailletted with silver
or gold. Another charming fad of the
hour is to wear a crepe meteor tunic OF
rather brilliant hue over bullion
cloth skirt yelled with black or white
chantilly. Both combination schemes
are popular with matrons, while for
young girls white transparencies veil
ing evening frocRs of delicate hue are
most in favor.
Some Of the women who remained I'M
town all winter are now perfectly pre-
pared to enjoy whatever diversions the
spring season may offer. Realizing the
wisdom of taking time by the forelock.
they varied their charitable labors dur
ing Lent by Systematically overhauling
the contents of their clothes presses.
II,
stead Of posing as Flora MacFlimseys.
they are congratulating themselves on
the chic appearance Of their made-over
evening gowns and the fact that an as
sortment of tasteful costumes must
prove a delight to their friends and
arouse envy in the breasts of their
enemies. There are people who declare
that the latter motive has as fatal 4
fascination for some women as women
are supposed to have for the members
of the stronger sex. While this latter
statement may not be true. certain it IL
that the vogue of decolletage garnf-
lures has been of wonderful advantage
In freshen1ng the evening gowns OF
yesteryear. For dresses of delicate hue
there are garnitures of white net COW
cred with rich embrOiderieS done In
silks Of pastel shades and tinsels. or
trimmed with braid-edged galloon
bands of greenish gold or dull silver.
In all black are garnitures of fishnet,
elaborated with jet bead and bugle en-
broidery and finished with a deep fringe
of beads Black, white, crystal, pearls
and gold are effectively blended on
white net garnitures, which are APP
pliqued with black satin sprays with
small leaves wandering among medal
lions of gold beads intermingled with
crystals and pearls.
Especially for the gray evening gowns
which were SO fashionable last winter
are decolletage garnitures of gun
metal net embroidered with beads aud
bugles Of matching shade. Mar
quisette and chiffon cloth are quite as
net a basis for these convenient
garnitures, which are of many differ
ent sizes, some of them covering only
a portion of the bodice, while others
attain the proportions Of tunics and
are often SO called.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

of penitence at the southern resorts must
have left behind them exceptionally large
orders for their dressmakers to fill dur
ing the seven weeks between Ash We'd
nesday and Eastertide.
Not all of the work was a matter of
welding scissors and needles. for in or
der to produce a gown which will In
stantly suggest to the casual observer a
definite period in history or art, requires
considerable research in libraries and in
Vulnerable visits to picture galleries on
the part of the woman who has con-
tracted to furnish it. In addition to Sc
curing an accurate sketch Of dress of
the desired type. it's coloring and. as near
~ as possible, its materials, must be
faithfully reproduced, for not to be cor
rect in these details Is to perpetrate a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

stantly consulting the dressmaker makes
tremendous inroads upon the time which
should be devoted to entertaining brides
elect and their frances, although why it
Is the custom to shower the engaged with
invitations to eat, drink and be merry
has not as yet been satisfactorily ex-
planned.
4
Nevertheless, the color scheme OF an
evening costume is of such vast i'm
portance that hours may be spent-the
sterniy practical would doubtless say
wasted-in trying to decide precisely which
shade Of yellow looks best with pale gray,
just how much light blue or pink may be
combined with mauve. and IL cinnamon
brown tissue is most effective over silver
or gold cloth. One woman who finally
persuaded a most unwilling modiste to
make for her what proved to be an artis-
tic looking evening dress of pale yellow
on the cleverly blended tones that con-
science finally forced her to confess that
Sons Of the Revolution button had fur
nished the idea. Another woman who in
sisted upon having dinner gown of leaf
brown and dark green declared that she
knew those two soft tones would blend
charmtngly, because nature Is constantly
using them together, and she never makes
mistakes in her color combinations.
For many moons there have been vague.
disQuieting rumors afioat anent revival
of the renaissance modes, and while these
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

it's original wearer, and two hundred dol
lars would buy enough brocade for
dress sufficiently splendid to be preserved
as an heirloom. A like sum will purchase
enough of the modern figured material
for a picture gown having the conven-
tional long, sweeping train. shapelv
decOllete bodice and mere apologies for
sleeves And as such gowns do not re-
quire trimmings beyond the few yards of
point de venise, duchess or rose point to
be extracted from the treasure chest of
almost any family. the cost of a brocade
picture gown is not really prohibltive.. 1t
must. of course, be borne in mind that an
excellent print OF the sort of costume de-
sired should be handed to the visiting
dressmaker who will not only be per-
fectly able to fashion such dress, but
will cheerfully tack 1T to whatever satin
or taffeta slip is at hand instead of de-
manding absolutely new materials for a
foundation such as a shop modiste would
certainly insist upon. All of these details
are worthy of the careful consideration or
the woman of limited income. good So
cia1 position and the laudable ambition to
look distinguished whenever she appears
in evening garb.
i
Now that the overskirt has arrived
and nowhere Is 1t more prominent than
on evening dress-it may be well to
state that 1t differs radically from the
tunic, which. in the minds of many peo-
pie, has come to mean any sort Of dou-
BILE skirt effect produced by trimming.
whereas the term "overskirt" implies
the overdress which is separate from
the skirt OF q gown OF matching or
contrasting material. AS lace Is now
enormously in demand as an overskirt
material the thrifty woman who has
treasured hounces of chantilly. Spanish
thread, guipure or escurial for the past
three decades will find them valuable
wardrobe assets. She will perceive that
the lighter meshes will answer per-
fectly for the upper portion OF chill
fon, satin or silk skirt, and the heavier
nets as the drapery for gown OF chit
fon broadcloth. cashmere de sole or
crepe de chine, while f1ounce of forty
inch width may be used to veil skirt
Of gold or silver cloth. figured or strip
ed satin OF worn beneath a Topped back
robe of satin or silk. A costume which
last week won murmurs of approval
from the feminine portion of Manhat-
q middle-aged matron of stately bear
ing and slender figure. 1t consisted of a
black satin slip draped with a light
gray dyed chantilly long scarf. which
covered most of the bodice and extend
ed in sharp points almost to the knees.
proaehable quality it would better be
Of any color save black or white, for.
whether used over a matching or con-
trasting hue, any imperfections are
clearly brought out, whereas If dyed to
precisely match the heavier material
the coarsest sort Of mesh will not only
readily pass muster. but be really eff
fective. This is markedly the case with
many Russian laceS, which are most
ordinary looking in white and dis
tinctly smart when colored to harmo-
nize with an old rose. canton blue or
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

suede combined with a dull shade Of
green or blue ribbon.
Newest in Mems Neckwear.
uTETE DE NEGRE'' is the very latest
shade of brown. which is being
used for mems neckwear. 1t is seen in
the knitted silk ties with embroidered dots
as well as in the piece-silk four-in-hands
and the scarfs of tubular form which are
woven without seams. Among the fash
ionable fabrics used for neckwear are
silks showing vertical stripes in contrast
ing colors, rep in two tones and woven
omber cords which are arranged to form
chevrons in the center of the tie.
While sleeves are, short. it is still con.
sidered better taste to cover the lower
part of the arm with tight undersleeve
of transparent material.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19
Exquisey Soft Textures Employed for Greek DapecsLace
Enormously in Demand Two-Tone Combina-
tions-Possibiities of Last Years Gowns
extures En-,
Two-Tone

sartorial failure likely to render the
wearer Of the costume grotesque and
the maker of it laughing stock for CO.
temporary modistes.
The woman who goes in for picturesque
effects in evening toilets is usually SO
well posted on the rules of art, as ap-
piled to feminine dress, that she is
scarcely likely to make the mistake Of
selecting a period costume which is alb
solutely unsuited to her own proportions
and coloring. Hours of lettering about
the picture galleries of Europe have at
least taught her not to err on the side
of the inartistic and consequently she
rarely adopts a style which does not emil
nently become her. While there are to
be seen innumerable fascinating repro
auctions of the costumes worn by the
famous-and infamous-beauties who were
more or less identified with the court life
of past centuries. no single period Of the
worlds history is SO generally favored
as is that of ancient Greece. The reason
is not far to seek, for the long lines and
the simple draperies affected by the
woman of those days not only become
the woman of modern times, but they
permit the use of an almost endless va
riety of exquisite fabrics of SO flexible a
weave that they naturally fall into grace
full folds.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

considered" continued the beauty cul-
turist. Nearly every stout woman seems
they are practically the same-but she
usually wears It punched In folds about
her neck and pinned directly beneath her
chin. This arrangement has the effect
of making the shoulders look round and
the throat short-precfsely the result
which should be avoided. The correct
way to adjust q scarf Is to place 1t fatty
across the back with the upper edge sew
eral inches below the nape OF the neck.
then draw it smoothly over the shoulders
and the upper portion of the arms and
allow the ends to hang straight to the
knees. This arrangement will make even
a quite stout woman look fat across the
back. decrease the apparent width Of
her shoulders and the size of her bust
and furnish two long lines to the front
of her figure. While she is learning to
carry a scarf In this manner. We con-
trive to teach her the importance Of
standing erectly. of keeping her chin
raised and her head thrown back. The
scarf-wearer should not be woman of
meek demeanor.
There is quite as much art In select
ing a scarf as there Is in wearing one"
proceeded the superintendent of the
beauty studio. Take this scarf, for in
stance" picking up q Doueet CONNECTION
of white tulIe bordered with three rose
chenille-edged tucks and smoke gray
tulle hem. "A rather plump customer Of
ours brought this. all the way from Paris
don't ask me how she got it through
the custom house-and now she can't
wear it because of the inches which it
adds to her shoulders and chest. She's
going to give it to q niece who is pre-
cisely the sort of willowy young person
TO show it off. And just look at this
dream in pale blue liberty silk fringed
with silver fringe. The woman who
owns it has a lovely svelte figure and will
carry 1t charmingly. but not for several
weeks to come, for she's been tarpon
fishing in Florida with her husband and
her face is sunburned long
shoremans When we have restored her
complexion to its normal condition, its
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

TCTuRE effects are
now distinctive fea-
lures Of the ultra
smart evening tot
lets. In ( a C t ,
gowns possessing
such characters
tics are SO strong
ly in evidence that
it would seem as
though the throngs
of W o m e n who
passed the season
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

delicate pink and white tones will be ac-
centuated by this sky blue shade:
-
''What do you think Of this one?
thought that you would Instantly ask the
price! But it isn't for sale for affection
or money. Why. this piece Of Flemish
lace was brought over to America from
Holland when old New York was new
and under the dominion Of the Dutch.
Or course the Flemish laces are wonder
full, especially in scarfs. but after all.
length of genuine Chantilly. Escurial
and Spanish are scarcely less stunning.
and then there are the gold and silver
riveted Soudanese nets which are not to
be despised. although they have been
worn for so many years. Is it carrying
Goals to Newcastle to remark that the
Egyptian scarfs are sold by weight and
that people who are familiar with them
can approximate their cost at a glance?
THE beauty Of the modern lace scarf
is chiefly in the novel schemes of decor
alton applied for 1t. Take the Chante-
cler' design, for instance 1t usually Is
developed in heavy silk net interviewer
threads in undersot or chameleon man
ner, so that the pattern shows only in
certain lights. Such scarfs are charming
over evening dresses of pale hue and
any number of them will be worn next
summer with white lingerie frocks.
~
Some Of our regular clients-and not
infrequently the ones who are women OF
faultless figure and queenly bearing
strongly object to the straight, long scarf
because they consider that 1t has no dis
tinctive style, and so We tell them to
buy their own materials and have them
made into shaped scarfs. Oh, we don't
hesitate to advise a woman to have her
most treasured heirlooms cut up, because
she'll do as she pleases anyhow. and
the face of Canton crepe scarfs OF Sec
tional shape are really charming. One
of the handsomest accessories of this
type has a diamond-cornered back and
tab fronts of black net heavily embroid-
cred with white roses. The foliage is in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

natural tints and is mounted over pale
green satin and chiffon. It is worn so
far below the nape of the neck and the
tops Of the shoulders that its lower edge
covers the elbows and its owner carries
1t as an empress should wear her robes
Of state. We taught her how to do that
and 1t took time, too, but 1t was worth
the while. for unless all signs fail, scarfs
come.
fragile fabrics make charming scarfs
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19
Novel Dining Table Centerpiece.

NOVEL O1n1ug IaoIe Centerp1eco.
A NOVEL and most attractive-looking
- centerpiece recently used at bridge
luncheon was made by the hostess. The
basis OF the piece consisted of paste
board box six inches wide and eighteen
inches long set upon an old-fashioned
coarse straw fiat hat, whose wide brim.
folded against the long sides of the box,
formed half-moon effect. The box was
then filled with long-stemmed growing
flowers Undecided in moss, long strands
of wide satin ribbon were woven through
Sits cut In the pasteboard and the straw
arranged at each corner in all-loop bows.
Among the bows and along the inner and
outer sides Of the box were set choux of
maline Of the same shade as the ribbon.
SO that the white hyacinths which filled
the receptacle appeared to be springins
from bed Of gauze.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19
Shirt Waist Tailored Belts.

THREE late designs in shirt waist tai
lored belts include one of heavy tan
colored goatskin cut in two strips, which
are Joined together with band of bas-
ket-woven braid in white mercerized cot
ton color embroidered in button effect.
This belt, which is nearly three inches
wide, fastens with a tongue run through
an oval eyelet. Duplicate buckles of the
severely plain harness type fasten a sec
ond belt composed of two inch-wide strips
of eyelet-equipped patent leather. laced
together with a narrow black MORE rib
bon. And third novelty in waist bands
consists of three pieces of white patent
kid laced together by black satin ribbon
inserted through large eyelets. The same
idea Is used for belts of naturaEcolored
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

rumors are not likely to materialize, there
is far too much talk about 1880 stiff ma
terials, full skirts and fchu-draped bod
ices to please those. women who are so
perfectly content with the soft, clingfng
fabrics and the graceful draperies now In
vogue that they would be quite willing
to continue to wear them for an indefinite
period. The 1890 cloud on fashions hori-
chiefly in those evening toilets of bro
with an elder day than that of the ante
beiium period. it lends itself all too readily
to the stiff. stand alone" folds Of the
1880 wide-spreading skirt.
OF the beauty of brocades, too much
cannot be said. Not only are they of
wondrous coloring, charming design and
fascinating texture. but they are simply
magnificent In effect. AS for comparing
them with those worn by our great-grand-
mothers, for the sake of those ancestors
let us refrain from comment. Suffice 1t
to say that silk manufacturers have
learned much in the past hundred years,
and in no direction have they made
greater strides than in the art of weaving
gold and silver threads with turquoise
blue, canary yellow. ashen rose, cream
white and pearl gray.
A century ago one hundred dollars was
considered an extravagant price for a
plain silk frock which, BY the way, was
rarely made over during the lifetime Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

for quite young girls and we think that
none are daintier than are those in two
tones of chiffon cloth or marquisette.
They look we'll bordered with omber
ribbon, quillings, ruchings or delicate
fringes, and some Of the smartest-looking
Of all are hand-painted in poppy, orchid,
violet or rose patterns. The girl who
have any number of such delicate little
accessories. for chiffon cloth is inexpen-
sive and wears satisfactorily.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

Now that marquisette. chiffon cloth.
de sole. wolfe and a long list
Of exquisite silken fabrics are bordered,
they are more than ever in demand for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19

~ EW women naturally wear scarfs
gracefully or understand precise
ly the type which best becomes
Them" remarked a professional
beauty culturist as she frankly
scanned the figure of a prospective client.
''But they can readily learn the art she
made haste to add. land you would be
surprised to know how many of them
come to our studio solely for that pur-
pose, especially within the past six
months since scarfs of all descriptions
have been having such a tremendous
vogue.
First Of all, the shoulders must be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19
"a EN ~
= N1N
this TunIc Costume

canary shade in silk or chiffon broad
CLOTH
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19
.Z5eT6$ue 90 ZheScNz
Lg[1QZn2ZnEGzea

delicate pink and white tones will be &C
centuated by this sky blue shade.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-03-19
NOTES AND NOVEL TIES.
Newest in Mems Neckwear.

suede combined with a dull shade Of
green or blue ribbon.
The Fairmont West Virginian. (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1904-1914, 1910-07-12
Tact max GAIL
SENATE. SESSION
PRESIDENT rs NOT THINKING OF
FILLING SUPREME COURT
VACANCIES. 81

BEVERLY. July IL. President
Taft yesterday announces again. that
ne would not give serious consldera
ton to lining the vacancies in the su.
preme Court until fall. AS to calling
an extra session Of the Senate In DC.
tober. to confirm appointees to the
Supreme Court, and thus to facilitate
the re-hearing OF the Standard on, To.
bacco and corporation tax cases
the President has not definitely made
up his mind.
The President has offered to Presi.
dent Arthur T. Hadley. the chairman.
ship of the commission authorized by
congress to investigate the subject
OF railroad stocks and bonds and to
recommend plan for, bringing the is.
sue Of these securities under the su.
peryision OF the interstate commerce
commission. II President Hadley &C.
cepts the President will consult with
him regarding the other members OF
the commission
The Fairmont West Virginian. (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1904-1914, 1910-07-12
little PRINCE JOHN is FIVE.

n" ITricn tS-oristnI proo- !, : 4
LONDON. July 12.-Church bells IN
old London town rang merrily this
morning in honor of the fifth birth.
day Of a prince of the. royal blood,
little John Charles Francis. whose
papa is. the new King Of England.
Although the youngster is a long way
from the throne. and will likely never
shine save in the reflected light Cast al
by HIS elder brothers. His birthday
was accorded the same official hon.
ors as in the case of his big brother,
the heir apparent. 4,
superstitlous folk point but, lss an
suspicious Sign" that Prince Johns
birthday comedies with that Of Julius
Caesar: After the latter'sl death and
dedication and augurs announced that
whoever saw the light on Caesars
birthday was destined to happiness
and great glory. 1T goes without,
saying that ali England hopes their,
gnostications may prove correct III
Prince Johns case.
4 y
The Fairmont West Virginian. (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1904-1914, 1910-07-12
What's This?
GERMANY MAY BUCK ON FUR.
Their RECOGNITION OF THE
MONROE DOCTRINE.
tRv United Press,

BERLIN. July 1.-THE German for
eign office today issued a statement
declaring that Germany intends to do
as 1t pleases in South Central Ameri-
can affairs without the supervision of
America. The message given was not
intended for the press after the for
NAL message issued earlier sought to
conciliate the feelings Of Americans
regarding the Kaiser's attitude to-
ward Madriz. Germany refuses to
recognize any right on the part of the
United States to supervise her diplo.
matte relations with other countries
in Central South American countries
in general and Nicarauga. In particu-
lar. Germany's recognition of the
Madriz matter concerns herself and
Nicaragua and concerns no third per-
son or power" This is interpreted by
some as Germany's first step toward
refusing further recognition at Madriz
OF the Monroe doctrine. t