St. Johnsbury Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1867-1919, 1910-04-13
FASHION HINTS FROM NEW YORK.
Great Diversity of Styles combinations
of MaterialS.-Brigh COlOrS Brought
in Fashion by the Chantecler


Now that the spring season has really
opened and the modes that have been
exhibited for the last two months are
beginning to be worn on the streets the
diversity of the fashions shown is posi-
lively bewildering Anything that is
becoming or rather anything that she
fancies. the fashionable woman wears
this spring. There are long coats and
short coats, Russian blouses and tightly
fitted jackets, full pleated skirts and
Partisan models drawn into band so
that they are no more than two yards
around at the feet. There are huge
spreading hats with shade brims and
hats with no brims at all in flower pot
shape. Women at present are much
more independent of the set modes than
they ever were before and are going in
more for adaptations that suit their
own particular style.
Among the silk and wool dress goods
that are preferred to all silk by leading
dressmakers, the R. & S. silk poplins are
favorites. These have beautiful silken
surface, and a soft pure wool filling,
that gives them their ideal clinging and
draping qualities, while it insures their
wear and prevents the wrinkling which
is so distressing in handsome costume.
Vourneen, Colleen and a number of other
names ending the same way are used to
distinguish the various widths and
weights of these silk poplins which come
in the greatest variety of shades and
colorings, including black and the
fashionable changeables and figured
effects.
All sorts of materials are stylishly
combined at present. Figured silks have
plain bands or hens. Checked woolens
are almost invariably made up with
plain materials, for instance black and
white shepherds check suit had Russian
blouse with broad band of black cloth
down the closing. The pleated skirt
was made with six inch hem of the
cloth, above which were two narrow
bands of the same sable shade. Pipings
and heavy corded effects of contrasting
color are also extremely popular.
Bright co!ors play prominent part in
the spring and summer modes. The
"Chantecler" vogue brought about by
the popularity in Paris of Rostand's
famous play, is accountable for this.
This poetic production in which the
actors take the parts of barn yard fowl
and the feathered denizens of the sur
rounding forest, has had a great in
huence on the fashions, not on the cut
and style of garments but on small dress
accessories such as buttons. braids, en-
broideries. trimmings, belt buckles, par
dSO1Ss Ac1G SdAAAl0A@Sy Cl@. L AC &AdAAG~
cler hat is shown in all the shops. This
is straw toque surmounted by roos-
ter's head, the shape almost covered
with irredescent green tail feathers.
This summer will most certainly be
rather trying for the thin woman as so
| many, of the most fascinating of the tub
frocks are made with Dutch necks.
Many of these collarless necks are finish
ed by jaunty pleated frills, Chantecler
frills they are now called. When dress
of this type is not becoming it is always
possible to add tiny lace guimpe.
These guimpes to be smodish must be of
the simplest order, transparent and cut
very shallow. For silk frocks, gold, sill
yer or se1fcolored net is used, or ecru or
cream net or a fine quality of aliover
lace.
All the really smart New York shops
are filled to OVERLOOKING with silk coats.
Pongee coats of all sorts will be greatly
used this season. These are being made
up both lined and unlined. Certain chic
models have revers embroidered in
Oriental designs with buttons to cor
respond Black taffeta coats will also
be worn and rather short coats of satin.
Wraps for warm weather wear are made
OF chiffon or lace, some exquisite ones
being of Chantilly, much cheaper, but.