davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06


The lovely weather at the Longchamps
races brought out an amazing number OF
new costumes and garments. II was the
last public costume show of the season.
and one of its distinguishing features was
the display OF brocaded velvet gowns.
This material is so handsome that 1t re-
ouires little adornment. The skirts MADE
from il are plain or with the new slight
movement of draping suggesting an over
skirt, and they are hemmed more OF less
widely with fur. The sort OF fur or the
color of il appears TO matter not at ALL
The corsage is belted or sashed with plain
silk OF the prevailing tone of the velvet,
and the neck is round. below a tiny guimpe,
with an excessively high choker edged
with a fine line of fur, while a wide fur
hand trims the short, close sleeves that
meet the long much wrinkling gloves.
With small fur cape collar cut In the
new form closely clasping the shoulders
and the modish huge muff, one is suf-
fcienfly warm in such costume.
This new shoulder cape that rather took
the world by surprise is also achieved in
heavy ecru or sand colored lace and in
velvet and satin, all fur bordered. Slight
~ differing from these and rather suggest
ing the time Of Henri Quatre is a shoulder
cape that, after fastening in front TO the
depth of four inches or so, rolls gradually
back, lengthening as it rolls till it reaches
the waist line in the back; the narrowly
turned edge shows the bright colored silk
lining
New mantles that have lately appeared
are rather ugly "reminiscences of an ex-
fraordinarily uninteresting period in gown
ing: however, their novelty brings accept
ance. Made of black dark colored
chenille the strands are woven into lat
ticed openings and lined with a dim color
that shows through rather prettily. A
plain band Of satin or velvet finishes the
edges and the ends are heavily fringed
with chenille and coarse silken strands
Exactly in the middle this long straight
scarf is gathered into a cluster Of shirrs,
and when worn this shirred part is laid
over one shoulder.
Some striking costumes of plain velvet
were also seen at the races. one OF the
most notable was in white trimmed with
black fur and was worn by the Baronne
Henri de Rothschild. The short skirt,
gathered a little at the round waist line,
was gathered again, knee high, in big cord
ed shirrs Similar shiTrs shaped a wide belt
and high cuffs on the half-long coat
which was shaped after the manner OF a
Russian blouse. The hat was black, shoot
ing tall white feathers, and the shoes OF
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06
OUNCE LAYER CAKE.

ounce jelly makes a delicious filling for
laSer cake. To make the cake cream
hall cupful OF butter with one cupful of
susar ana add the yolks OF two eggs and
hail cupful of milk Beat to smooth
paste then sift a cupful and half of
Hour several times with level teaspoonful
ol soda and one rounded teaspoonful OF
cream OF tartar Stir the moist ingredients
INTO the sifted flour and when smooth
pat'er has been obtained fold In the whites
ot the eggs. beaten to stiff froth. Bake
III d swallow pan for about twenty-five min-
utes' When cold spread with thin layer
VI qnince jelly and cover the top OF the
~eaAe with white frosting.
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06
HANDMADE GIFTS
They 4re Bought in a Shop,
Not Made bu the Donor.

Once upon time the person who received
a handmade gift at Christmas was justified
in assuming that the donor had sewed.
painted or embroidered II especially for him
or her. and 1t is to be hoped appreciated II
accordingly. Those days have gone by.
The handmade gift is still thoroughly ap-
proved, but people have grown wise in their
generation, and no longer waste precious
time and more precious eyesight in making
these little remembranceS. The choosing OF
q gift with fitness, with a knowledge of the
tastes of the recipient, they consider suf-
ficient evidence of loving thought, without
actually making the gift. And so nowadays
handmade gifts are bought in the shops.
and they, all large and small. are catering
to the demand and supplying every sort of
pretty handmade trifie that the heart of
the Christmas shopper could possibly de-
sire
For a friend who reveIs in leather things
one may find portfolios. book covers, desk
appointments and hand fooled boxes, card
cases and picture frames
II candlesticks be a special hobby. there
is a whole wOrls OF them to choose from.
There are pounded brass sticks, hand
carved wooden sticks for the hall fireplace,
and quaint saucer sticks. dear TO our grand
mothers. There are sets of copper scOnCes,
too. just the thing for the friends brown
dining room. charming accompaniment
to any of these gifts would be box OF
homemade bayberry candles. These gray
ish green dips have a peculiar lustre when
lighted. and their fragrance is most pleas
ing.
And such a variety of interesting and
novel handmade baskets for the basket
loveri They are of all kinds and sizes,
from the large wood baskets of twisted
twigs TO the little work basket Of sweet
grass.
II needle work is the special preferences.
the shops offer much TO tempt the holiday
with borders and inset motifs OF the finest
hand work; little embroidered pillows,
buffet scarfs and table runners, all show
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06
1z&82222[C)F INTEREST to WOME lA@}EzGE8AAG
Vogue of Brocaded Vel<'ef
In Combination with Fur This Fabric Maxi
the Smartest of Street Costumes.

black velvet had white cloth uppers ano
white heels.
Long directoire Jackets OF velvet arc
smart to wear with separate coats. oiie
worn at the races, of dark blue velvet WIN
wide revers faced with white sheepski''
had a satin skirt matching II in color "A.
one side of the back the skirt was puiiou
q little TO one side and held under lai 80
velyet-covered button. Naturally this pi'
of draping caused an irregularity OF iihe
at the hem, which gave fuller view OF 'he
pretty shoes.
MANY of these separate little "basques -
TO give them their old-fashioned nane-aie
shaped exactly like those OF q quarter OIL
a century ago. more graceful air is
impaired TO them, however, by the ripoon
belt. sash or a cordeliere that binds the
waist. OF the same period are the peie-
rines small, shawl-shaped mantles OF vel
vet and of fur. Such things f1tly accom-
pany the long earrings, the wide oand
gold bracelets, and the wide, fiat lace col
lars, all now Just the thing!
Both brocaded velvets and plain are
turned into splendid evening cioaks made
more splendid by fur trimming, and velvet
brocades also appear other fabrics. In
a recent trousseau appeared an evening
cloak of gray mousseline de sole stamped
with great velvet flounces raised high
above the thin surface. The garment was
faced inside and along the front edges with
chinchilla fur. The outside facing followed
the hem to the side seam, where IL met
a half yard wide band of chinchilla that
covered the back breadth There was a
wide, square collar of the fur and wide
bands of il finished the short wide sleeves.
Large hats do not lessen in either size
or number. They extremely FIAT
and have little trimming. A large hat of
black velvet, comparatively narrow back
and front, but protruding widely on the
sides, was trimmed only with rosette OF
little ermine tails set at one side. Another
of similar form had for adornment merely
one lovely golden rose with pink inside
Ietals 4 wreath Of white leather roses
trimmed elegantly a silk fur beaver hat,
which was faced with white. A big fat
Lewis hat, covered smoothly with black
velvet, pressed in front into sharp point
leaving the forehead exposed, was trimmed
with a sable animal laid across the front
the head and tail finishing the ends. New
toques of white erInine. ratine and swans
down. faced with black velvet or a black
fur, are pulled so far over the head as to
cover all the hair except for few strayine
tendrils at the back Of the neck and over
the temples. On young, fresh faces they
are adorable. NJ. A. T.
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06
WITH BLACK VELVET GOWNS.

Among the things that add TO the attract
Veness OIL the velvet costume are the chic
accessories that can be found TO go with it.
IL me color Is black one can wear black
veiVet ooots and carry black velvet bag
II less somhre hue is chosen the bag may
match II and the boots also. but the latter
must nave patent leather foxings. The
poots' Whatever their color fasten with
close rows OF small buttons In the same
shaue. Corduroy boots and bags to go
with costumes of this material are even
more aliuring than those OF velvet because
they are newer.
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06

II is often stated, and with truth. that
and better preserved than that of a woman
OF the same age. This circumstance is
commonly attributed 10 The daily massage
which a man gives his face when shaving
and 10 the fact that this process begins
with him at an age when the young woman
has not begun TO worry about her COM
pIexion. The younger set of women-that
IS, those under twenty-five-do not give a
thought 10 massage. as done by profes-
eional. They may rub in a cream occa-
sionally before or after motor trip. or golf
or tennis. but even these attentions are
spasmodic. II is not until they begin TO
dread showing their age that they will go
come 10 them The masculine complexion
does not owe everything 10 shaving, how
ever. IL benefits much more. probably,
from heaithful diet and regular exercise.
Sweets rarely form part of a mans diet
and he "nibbles'' less between meals A
few blocks do not represent the amount OF
walking he does daily, and he plays golf
and tennis regularly. instead OF watching
ethers do ft- Women, however, have one
advantage over men, in that they have a
chance TO take daily nap. Sleep is said
10 be one OF the best prese-vatives for the
complexion, as then the facial muscles are
relaxed and the wrinkles are smoothed out
70 be ebylfke softness. The woman who takes
this daily nap always has fewer wrinkles
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06

ing faultleSS work: lovely baby things Az
exquisite lingerie. To see these is 70 reali.ss
how many stitches must be put into g..
TO make any showing at all. and Yet tneso
articles can be bought in the shops al prizes
that are comparatively reasonable
The seasons craze for brOcadeS. tapeStrsss
and cretOnneS. IN combination with go1
braidS galloOns and fringes. has found rs
way into the realm OF fancy work. anu
these materials are used for Fascinating
tableCIOths, pillow cases. bags. bOudOiT s2-
pointments, waste baskets, picture frames.
afR
New-York tribune., 1910-06-05

and that something serious was about to
happen He faced his superior in trepida-
ton: :. Mr.. North drew a long breath and.
after q portentous pause, in icy tones ad-
dressed the delinquent:
IF you have any explanation TO offer
for this occurrence. sir. you will kindly
write it,
Trusting himself no further in his in
/ furfated state. Mr.. North withdrew into his
/ dressing room and closed the door
/ I laughed. Il appreciate that story" 7
said Il know Mr.. North But tell NE
some more
Have you ever noticed after the curtain
has fallen that IL seems 10 be agitated BY
a breeze?" he continued. That is the
stage manager performing the old trick OF
shaking the curtain. which usually starts
the applause again II it has died down
Then. too. have you ever noticed how long
the house lights stay lowered at the end or
an act? Another trick for applause, 70
which the audience usually responds.
Lights full UP in the house usually stop the
demonstration unless the enthusiasm is
genuine and very great Farce needs
quick curtain: serious. quiet scenes. slow
curtain. ANY mistake IN tempo IN the low
ering OF the curtain is fatal 10 the curtain
call
Frequently. OF course. the applause IS
started by the ushsrs and attaches or the
theatre when it is usually taken up by the
rest OF the house. Here suggestion again
plavs its part. the audience believing itself
70 be the source OF the demonstration
But the claque. as II is known in Paris
and elsewhere on the Continent. is prac-
tically unknown here Our theatres have
not vet reached the point where IL Is posi-
bIe for persons 10 make a living at ap-
plauding
LAS a paid institution the ciaque is sup
posed 10 go back 10 the time OF the En-
peror Nero. History tells Us that that ANA
teur actor. TO insure himself applause.
hired 4 band OF ive thousand lusty ap-
plauders. whose example il was expedient
for the public 10 follow or take the conse-
quences.
.It was in Paris. however. that the claque
was first organized into trade. Early IN
the nineteenth century two men regularly
established the business OF insuring dra-
matte success by supplying the theatre
with as many persons trained 20 applaud
in the proper places as the management
thought the play would need and was will
ing TO pay fop
New-York tribune., 1910-06-05

and il spoiled the effect Of the stars really
admirable performance. leaving ner audi
ence cold toward her for the rest OF the
play And they got in their demonstration.
too, for when the leading man appeared in
the next act they stopped the action Of the
play while they cheered him.
Irving, in a way, set himself against the
conventional curtain call. because he re-
allied the loss Of illusion attendant upon
IT, When the curtain went up his players,
so far as possible. remained in character,
not apparently seeing the audience. bur
moving about the stage n continuation Of
the action.
AUGUSTUS Thomas has gone even further
toward retaining the illusion by creating
a series of stage pictures in which the
chara cters silently continue the action.
There were seven such pictures in 'Ari-
zona' all OF which were interesting and
effective.
ION the other hand there is something
10 be said against both those methods.
I.egitimatelv the action Of the act should
reach a climax when the curtain falls; any
continued action. however appropriate. is
antt-ciimatic-
II think l came nearer TO solving the
problem. For years I carried my own
+abIeau curtains which screened the scene,
ana enabled the players to take the call
without either appearing in the setting of
The nlav or coming out before the curtain.
After all. the applause is really for the
actor either because he has interpreted
,bs dramatist ably, or, in some cases, has
aona good work in spite Of the limitations
Iatd unon him by the bad writing of the
nls,,yUrieht and there is no reason when
Yhe anpreciation is spontaneous and sincere
u,bv he should not receive II.
.rb.n YOU think the people who decry the
o,,r.a,n call on the ground that it lessons
the illusion are representative asked.
Rather" he answered. Though. heaven
knows I believe in the preservation Of all
tbe illusion possible. But there are always
b-ava spirits who are above law and prec-
aaent such a one was the elder SaIVlni-
vas ago. when he was playing IN The
o,,.Ia.,. az the Boston Theatre, he. meta
,,h,y,csJIv st least. bade illusion go hang.
..,rbA stage had a large apron the space
,,..,,aer curtain and footlights-the apron
- a,,,os. been done away with in mod
en- theatre building). This apron Jut'sd
-, 80 far that IL was necessary 10 play
c,osa IN me footIights to be seen from al
,ar,s Of the house. Salvini had FAMOUS
des,b scene In this piece. and he realized
New-York tribune., 1910-06-05

Lacy, J. H. Stoddart. Agnes Booth. J. B.
Polk Jefreys Lewis. John Gilbert, James
O'Neiu, Charles Fechter, F 3 Warde, B.
T. RinggoId, Eben Plympton, ], w Shan
non, Z. NJ. Holland, Nine. Ponisi, Efne
Germon. Clara Morris. Rose Coghlan'
Frank Mayo, Maude Granger and F 2
Mackay. Another notable array Of actors
appeared on February Il, 1877, for the beue-
fit of the La Sale Institute. comprising
Nine. Janaushek. E. Sothern, E. A. Eberle.
Giles Shine, LAvinia Shannon, Kate
Fletcher, Ida Vernon, Adelaide Stanhope,
Percy Hasweu. Helen Dauvrays Marie
Burroughs, ]. H. Stoddart. Robert H. Hill
lizard. Mckee Rankin. William Davidge and
others.
On April 27, 1877. the Academy property
was sold TO ". B. Dinsrnore for s3o0.000. a
few days afterward passing into the hands
Of ". P Douglas for $525,0OO On Novem-
Der %, 1871 the management Of the the
atre passed into the hands of Eugene
Tompkins and Ed G. Gilmore, opening with
the spectacle Arabian Nights" and follow
ing with Booth and Barrett in Julius
Caesar" The management of the theatre
has continued under the same regime since
After the death. however. Of Mr.. Gilmore
and Mr. Tompkins, the management was
assumed by z. T. Van Dusen. who retires
to-morvOw
New-York tribune., 1910-06-05

"A funny incident is related OF the famous
actress Rachel II seems that on a certain
opening she received enthusiastic appIauss.
but on the second night the applause IL
minished TO such an extent that Rachel felt
herself aggrieved and bitterly complained
that the 'cIaqUs was not doing its duty
It's leader. on hearing or this. wrote her a
letter-let me see. have II somewhere IN
a book around here" A search located the
book and Mr.. Hacketr read with much en-
joyment the following
g SIademOiseIIe- cannot remain under
the OblOquy OF q reproaCh from such lips
as yours! The following IS an authentic
statement OF what really took place: At
the first representation 7 led the attack in
person not less than rhirty-thres times.
We had three accIamaJiOnss four hilarities.
two thrilling movements. four renewals et
applause and two indefinite explosions. In
fact. to such an extent did we carry our
applause that the occupants OF the stalls
were scandalizsd and cried out IA porte.
s. My men were positively exhausted with
fatigue. and even tnrinated 70 me that they
could not again go through such an even
ing. Seeing such 70 be the case. I applied
for the manuscript. and. after having
profoundly studied the piece. was obliged
10 make up ny mind for the second repre-
sentation TO certain curraiIments in the
service Of my men I applied them. how
ever. only 20 Msssieurs - and -. and
IL the ad interim Office I hold AFFORDS ma
the opportunity I Will make ample amsnds.
In such a situation as that which 7 have
just depicted have only to request you 70
believe firmly IN ny profound admiration
and respectful zeal. and I venture 70 en-
the difficulties which environ ne.
After that al our little tricks or this
side OF the water seem very auateurtsh.
don't theye'' he qUsried
Yes" / agreed. And I never imagined
there was so much TO be learned on thf
subject OF curtain calls
-EEDRETA
New-York tribune., 1910-06-05

that they come out two By two next TINE
after the fashion IN which the animals are
reputed 70 have entered the ark. BY q vel
regulated process OF elimination we no"
zs- down 70 those characters who nave
PLAYED N. chief scenes in the ACT ano
finally the star comes out alone 70 smile
rrscio11glv end received his or her due NEED
OF sdulat!on-
That is the schedule - sometimes II
doesn't happen that way''-Mr Hackett
smiled.
For instance. before Mrs. Danes De-
fence was first played in London. Lady
Eastnev wac supposed by both author ano
actors 10 be the leading wonaan's part. Ihe
pIsy was done at wyndhsm's Theatre.
Charles Wyndham PLAYING Sir Daniel Car
teret: Miss Mary Moore, his leading
woman. appearing as Lady Eastney. and
Miss Lena Ashwell. not nearly so We'll
known then as since. playing Mrs. Dane
AT the close Of the great third act the
company took ne call Then Mr. Wyno-
ham came out with both Miss Moore and
Miss Ashwell-tremendous applause he
appeared again with them botn-reneWeo
hand clapping' He then appeared win
Miss Moore pplsuse stili, out cries
cf Ashweu, Ashuellr He came out again
with both la6ies-stIu the cries OF Ash
well, Ashwellr kept up Poor Ny Wyno-
ham was in a quandzry! Miss Moore was
his leading woman: professional courtesy
demanded that she appear with him II MISS
Ashxeu did. Yet the people manifestly
wanted Miss Ashwell. Then Miss Moore
6id the gracious thing. She asked Mr-
Wyndhsna 20 take Miss Ashwell out alone
and stood suailing IN the wings 81 the other
wornan's ovation.
Such pleasant incidents are not so rare
as some people would have Us believe. but
II is true that The ether spirit creeps OUT
occasionally Once, II g New York theatre.
the audience was reused 10 a great pitch
OF enthusiasm by the leading man. II
was after strong scene. which he had
played superbly. quite eclipsing the star
q woman She took The call with him.
again and agai2 although the demonstra-
tion n7aaifestly was for him. for whenever
she ventured out alone the applause al
most subsidized. starting up again with the
lowering Of the curtain. House lights were
finally put up; still the noise kept on Sew
enteen times the curtain went up and down
and yet the woman would not let the man
take the call without her.
1T was an unpleasant little glimpse Of
professional Jealousy behind the scenes.
New-York tribune., 1910-06-05

7 1T is, in the main, bad policy he
| agreed, smiling.
What other elements, unknown TO the
public enter into the curtain call business %
questioned
Well he stopped a moment 10 think.
''at a certain place in the manuscript Of
a play are the cabalistic words, warn cur
tain That means that at the very second
the lines indicated are reached by the
actors the stage manager or his assistant
u1ust warn the curtain man TO get ready.
At the closing lines or business Of the act
is the word ring which is the signal for
the lowering of the curtain
The stage manager and the curtain man
both know that If there is the slightest
delay or anticipation in dropping the cur
tain the end of the act will be killed
The audience may not know why 1t was
not impressed to the point of applauding.
but the stage manager knows exactly. Ihe
trouble may lie in any one of several quar-
ters. The curtain man may have fallen
asleep or gone out 10 get a drink. The
assistant stage manager may have been
chatting with some one at the back of the
stage and failed TO get to his post at the
proper time. Or some miX-up IN the scene
may have cut out the curtain cue.
AT a recent opening in New York the
fault was with the curtain itself which
improperly weighted. absolutely refused TO
come down at all. After vain attempts. the
asbestos curtain was finally lowered in
stead. but the climax Of the act was ruined
Whatever the cause, however there is
generally war when the curtain finally
shuts out the audience. All of which re-
calls a story they tell of Wilfred North.
now one Of the stage directors at The New
Theatre.
Mr. North is noted for his courtesy and
sweetness OF temper. qualities all too rare
in stage directors generally. 1t was while
Mr. North was stage manager with The
Crisis that the following incident hap
pened:
His assistant did the ringing down,
and for several successive nights bitches
had occurred which marred the end OF the
third act The assistant was always ready
with voluble explanations. which the ordi-
nary stage manager would have met with
storms and curses. Mr.. North only listened
IN admirable and courteous silence But
when the same thing came TO pass fourth
time his fury broke bounds. The assistant
approaching him with his ready little ex-
planation. saw that this time the flood
gates Of Mr.. Norths- wrath were opened
New-York tribune., 1910-06-05
THE COMING WEEK
COMEDY AND DRAMA.

--.rv or MUsfC-Sotherr sne
A 49,, ,-Ii end their season by giving =
h -. =, ,.-so-r7sno- Of Hamlet" to-rnor-
-,rht n aid Of the Actors Fund. In
4 -. he event vii mark -ne passing
g. ''...', - regime a. this historic house.
- srfs-noon Corse Payton Tfii
n Ss.ras Avenue Theatre C5rooklyrl
----,.-v. with = weekly change OF
-s,s w.ek he vii produce Sweet
l' s,ns,rs." and next week ''Zszs." E"
b. N Nj Tsyton's company are
Mortimer. Minna Phillips.
- Claude Psyton. Daniel J. Ham
5rsl --.--,as Trufn. Albert q. warburg.
wilton. katherine Francis and
7. rrsncss HaH'eT
.s-os- seven Days" a farce that
p. -ske & chronic pessinist laugh
b. rlss
-p--rRIoN-T~en;y-fourth and last
!. r~sncis wilson in his excellent
-. s,--iuul comedy The Bachelors
g.
q -.-r-v-Iohn BARRYMORE in The Fort
11-,,r- one = the best plays OF the
-. and the end is not yet.
n ..sEIrE-Ffenry Miller and Laura Hope
z Thomass delightful comedy.
4 L. susband's VIE
ry--os0N-Ed-rund Breese and company
II --..rpe -se.- successful engagement il
4 -ae spe1dthrift.
& r.-rACK SLast week OF the present
&.--srsment OF i. & Warner in Alias
i - valentine win which the theatre
m 10 reopened next August.