Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

to the end of the sleeve: and one running
up under each arm and out beneath
the sleeve to its end: sometimes the
material is folded SO that the shoulder
and sleeve seam on top Is omitted and
round hole is cut for the admission of
the head at the top. the bodice opening
down either the back or at one side or
the front as the dressmaker fancies.
These loose, peasant blouses have A way
OF falling most gracefully over the Shout
ders. and they are finished at the neck
and elbows with the little 'chentecler"
frills of plated lawn: or il this is not
becoming. by a high stock collar and
shallow yoke of very fine cream lace,
beneath the loose sleeves a the elbow.
SO much for the summer bodices. 1t is
the skirts that ere individual. interesting
different from anything that has he al
seen il. many seasons; and no two skirts
are alike. Of course. everybody knows
that Paris is orce more in the throes of
a sartori2l war: this time the disciples OF
the dragged-in form revealing empire ef-
fects contending with the devotees OF
flounces and frills as represented by tho
costumes or the restoration period and
worn by the fair Eugene and her court.
But so far the adherents Of the empire
effects are triumphant I'm that even when
ilcunces are used they are heavily
weighted in order to keep them quite fiat
and straight in outline. SO that the sill
houette OF the costume rather tapers in
toward the feet than spreads out the
least bit toward the bottom.
\ woman taking tea at q fashioua BILE
hotel the other afternoon wore blue and
white spotted foulard with a side plated
skirt in ankle length; but over the pleats
and holding them fiat in position were
two narrow pleated founces. one set at
about the knees. the other at the bottom
were stitched to hip depth only, but the
flounces and invisible weights held the
material down fatty, so that there was
no effect OF bulging when the woman
walked across the restaurant. or course.
such Il skirt would consume yards and
yards OF material. but the effect was in
Gescriba bly, smart.
The system Of weighing the new cos
tunes is intricate and interesting. and
eight or ten pounds Of lead are often put
into very fashionable skirt to give it
the proper effect Of nmpness and straight
ness. Dozens of tiny nat weights, strung
on cord a "e run through tape castings and
sewed into the skirt under tucks or other
trimmings at the knee, and at the lower
edge. One string OF these lead weights
long enough to go all around the skirt
weighs nearly four pounds. Chiffon TUNES
are also weighted and on every dangling
end of panel, girdle or other trimming Is
a large weight not less than a quarter OF
pound. THIS 1t will be seen that
beauty will have something to carry
when fashionably clad this summer
A costume among today's illustrations
shows this manner OF Weighing light
materials to make them hang heavily.
The skirt of this dress is Of very thin,
dark blue silk and the peasant bodice is
OF blue chiffon in the same shade laid
over Persian silk in red, orange and brown
tones. The skirt is lad in narrow side
plaits which are heavily weighted below
the hip and again at the bottom to in
sure their hanging straight with 10 vag-
rant fiutterings in a summer breeze. The
weights at the hip are the sort on a cord
and are sewed. in their tape casing, TO
the under side OF the skirt. At the bot
tom there is small weight fastened into
each separate pleat One may imagine
what the weight Of such costume might
be