davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
F.. Hints Anent
the High Waist

you have no doubt OoS0fve0 the -
y turn of the high waist line. It's ID.
Il vent has long been heralded II
these pages, and the success with which
st has met Is not surprising to the wise
ones who remember two or three go.
sons ago.
The line that Ia reminiscent Of the
court of Napoleon is the salient featurs
in gowns for afternoon and evening and
for home or street wear. But 1t must
be worn only by those figures that are
as graceful as that OF the Empress Jose
phine The stout. stookily built woman
must eschew the glory Of the high line
and gathered skirt. II you stand .
seemingly unhappy medium between the
sylphlike form and the animated bar
rel there is hope.
To those who choose the high Tine with
their eyes open and with an unfalterinS
trust in their superior beauty there
comes a speedy and cruel revenge. But
If the style be adopted With knowledge
of shortcomings, then there are many
happy solutions Of being In the latest
Style without appearing ridiculous.
The baby waist, or tho Kate Green-
away fashions. need not be the extreme
exploitation Of the high Line. Why noe
wear a broad empire sash? Whsn placed
under the dropping supple revers and In
corporated with the rest Of the bodice
this method gives the high line. but also
a slenderness at the waist. The latter
effect is quite easily secured II dark
shade Of velvet or satin BE- used-saU
black or the very popular royal blue.
Then again the upper part OK
the bodice can be extended In long
, panels or ends, brought down over the
suggested high line. Buckles Of bead
work or OF any OF the wonderful
metallic effects are excellent means OF
marking a high waist line and Of hold.
, ing. the long lines in place.
Speaking Of long lines brings . very
important point to our notice. TAKE
every opportunity to suggest long lines
on bodice ana skirt. The high walsh
line viii shorten the line Of tho blouse
therefore any opening Of the gufmpe
should be heightened. A pointed Or
square cut collar line.
The tunic that drops from the high
line should be long. reaching almost to
the ground. Cords. sashes or tfimr
ming are more effective IL applied yerd.
CALYPSO that any shortening eendco"
cies can be countsra cted.
Modified lines at the belt are always
in good style. Plastrons at the confer
of the girdle, from which the raised
line mounts toward the back. are easy
to apply. A bolero suggestion, with the
hack norton stitched down and the
front line modified by cords. loops Of
motifs, IL also good.
Remember that the high line gives
dignity II wisely worn, or It Sives a
una attractive. ungraceful appearance Il
foolishly selected. It has returned with
renewed beauty and power. but It re-
mains in the hand Of the dressmaker te
make the most Of It.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
Lingerie Pointers

mo ACCOMMODATE the new tight
fitting styles, straight slips In
l. princess and empire style are
heinp worn. In combinations tho
three-piece style is also much seen.
These combinations are in ciinging
materials. the finer ones being snow
a. chifYon cloth. wolfe ninon and lib
orty satin. They are trimmed with
both lace and hand embroidery.
Petticoats in walking length are In
the very nghtest and sheerest ma
sette' chiffon and net. Often they are
deeply tucked and threaded with col
ored ribbons. which appear at inter
walls In tiny bows. On the whoie:
having no petticoat at all, and so the
less the underskirt Is in evidence the
better.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

THERE's . mighty struggle In the
millinery field. The little close
l. bonnet in its various appealing
forms Il naturally an outcome OF the
empire modes. It has quaint curved
brim and a large pulled crown. Velvet
and fur. or brocade and lace, with sim
bins plumes at the back. are the allur-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

with the tails? All, that is q very
reasonable question.
Well. they are used Al straight
fringe at the bottom OF q long scarf.
They are combined with lace sr beads
to form ornaments for a hat. Or they
are used to outline the yoke and sleeves
OF an evening gown. Be assured that
they are not thrown away; only, tall
less ermine is the thing for this season.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
Leather Belts

- ED and black patent leather are
still popular, but dark colors are
~ gaining on them.
Black and gunmetal. calf belts. plain
or with pipings or trimmings Of other
feathers. are much seen.
Green, navy blue, black. white. red
and tan are the leading colors In leather
belts.
Morocco IL being much worn. espe-
cially in buckles.
Buckles are principally long, desp
oyals and squares, longer than the belt
and curved inward.
ing and button affects.
Fabrics combined with leather are
lhoWn principally on girdle effects.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
THE LITTLE CLOSE BONNET VERSUS THE HAT

diverse opinions can be high or low
crowned.
The brim Of the large hat can be bent
until tho most becoming line IL attained
surely . message Of hope to ALI II
the edge be too trying. softening line
OF fur can be added. and at any point
you may place-anyt thing!
Altogether 1t - hopeful outlook for
ovAfy one.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

A good red to use for combanaf1nn
with violet or any other color contain-
ing blue. where light effect 10 destEsd,
is ibis red. q shade which In tt hghtsr
tints seems to maugle cerise. coral and
salmon.
Another good combination contaanane
blue and red IL that Of Etna o. ughs
copper with navy or midnight blue.
This has become very popular II Para
and viii probably ~ 90 hers,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

soles being very soft and flexible and
lined with quilted silk. The front of the
mule does not entirely cover the toe.
but two pointed daps Of satin come from
the sides OF the sole and meet under a
jeweied button, thus leaving the toes
quite free as one walks about after ones
bath. Dainty mules like this would make
a charming Christmas gift for a friend
about to be married. and they could be
very easily fashioned out Of bits of
brOc4de or satin, pair Of the tufted
soles. which come for knitted slippers,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

ITO duty another season, and not allow
their future usefulness. to be impaired
by occasional wearings and long hang
ing In the back Of the wardrobe now that
their season Is really. past. White -frocks.
ribbons. slippers and stockings should be
wrapped In blue tissue paper to prevent
yellowing. and all garments should be
washed, though not starched. before lay
ing aside. Blouses bearing the slightest
stains of perspiration should be washed
out thoroughly or they will be almost
hopeIessly discolored when taken out III
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
New Color Combination

COLOR combination that is ap-
"A pearing with great frequency on
4 y gowns ana hats To that OF dark
violet ana red. The combination Is
really beautiful, but It needs great care
and keen appreciation of color effects to
use It without clashing. The safest
thing 10 to use graded series OF reds.
the darker tones approaching purple.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

Souse it up and down, in, the suds.s and
then squeeze gently through the hands.
Never rub or wiring the lace, - IT, Is
very apt stoa break the sthreads, especially
when the lace is of very fine quality:
Next put in another lot ofssuds. prepared
lace until all tho dirt has been removed.
Then rinse IN two lots. OF warm water.
Genuine old lace should be stepped in
warm milk for at least half an hour and
then squeezed dry. az this gives It the
correct yellowish tint.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

ing characteristics OF the bonnet. But
hearken to the words Of wisdom ana
experience: Only youth ana beauty can
wear a bonnet Of this type!
The rival is the hat Of enormous sise.
Its generous brim hides deficiencies and
casts a friendly shadow over irregular
features. This type Of hat can be sim
ple or very ornate and In this season Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

the hlmiest quality; little knot. strip
or button u fur is allied with it.
Jabots, cravats, collars are trimmed
with bands that suggest clever ways
to use odd pieces.
The first sketch was shown at a
smart little shop in Paris, famous for
its attractive dress accessories. The
straight band was Of skunk fur, while
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

the spring. Hat ribbons should be ripped
off and rolled neatly. not folded. Para
hung by the handles from hooks news
papers being pinned over the. opened
covers. If there is not space for this,
the parasols must be allowed TO stand
in corner, closed, but every section OF
the panels should be stuffed with tissue
paper to prevent creasing and consequent
cracking. Any garments having wool in
their makeup should be wrapped in
newspapers and securely sealed, for it is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

that is decidedly Of the season.
The nat collar is OF chinchilla or
opossum. The round edges are con-
tinued out to a square line with heavy
lace. The entire form gives a hne
finish for a velvet suit. In this model
the fur collar Is lined.
Last IL the cravat Of ermine. Inc
side fastening is under supple DOW
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
Use of Plaid

A 8 USUAL. plaid IL being exploited
n largely in the fall fashions. ana
L \ 1t really seems to have taken .
greater hold than for some seasons
past. The plaids used are extremely
dark, and are seen chiefly In silk and
part silk fabrics. They are being used
for separate blouses and LOU, 14unoa''ons'
The Illuminating shades in these
plaids are frequently dyed the same
tone as plain .satins. thus facilitating
the matching for trimmings.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
Tailless Ermine

.fA LII the tails must be taken from
"a your srnipe." said q furrier
IA the other day. "or. rather. they
must not be put there In the hrst place"
II YOU notice the very latest impor-
cations you will ind that no black
lines mar the smooth surface OF an
rr.otns stole or muff What il done
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

from which hang velvet ends edged
with fringe No stiffening IL used. and
a soft lining Of china silk Is given to
the piece.
Any of these can be fashioned at
home. First save the pieces and then
make them into tho attractive access
series limited at before you. The we'll
dressed Partisan is revelfng In them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

two ruffles Of cream lace were pleated
and added in Pierrot style. A bow OF
black velvet fastened this at the back
A lace collar for the coat, edged
with fur. shows the very latest idea.
Heavy lace is cut with either a round
or square collar at the back and wide
reyers in front, and marten or a dark
colored fur edges the outer line. This
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

rrAvE you an old strip OF fur SUI
II fering from disuse? Bring 1t
IL out. madame. and then with an
all-seetng eye view the pieces OF
neckwear before you. On every one
there IL q touch Of fur and every one
shows how chic a little touch OF mar
ten or opossum or srmins can be.
Fur Is used on the majority OF neck
pieces. Never mind II the lace be OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

a pleat at tho back OF the skirt gives a
thankful
Dark navy-blue serge is trimmed with
a black sailor collar. Note how cieverly
the front Of the collar Is cut to suggest
bolero lire is limited at the front by q
modified crossed effect. Each strap but
tons down over a belt Of wide braid: the
cuffs are trimmed with braid and a very
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

a touch Of black velvet and the adjust
able guimpe IL Of dark-gray net, with =
heading Of pearl-gray satin.
The braid solves the question Of trim
ming with great success. It Is vartu-
ally ready for the stitching, and by
clever application the dress almost
makes ITSELF
From Paris comes this helpful sugges-
ton. Are you going to take It?
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

transforms a perfectly plain suit OF
velvet or rough material into . dressy
afternoon model. Milan or venetian
lace IL favored.
A. lace Jabot of soft yellow Is edged
on each side Of the straight central
strip by bands of skunk fur. Two
ends left perhaps from IN evening
gown or wrap. will give this touch
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
Notes and Novelties.
Putting Away the Summer Clothes.

- HERE are sultry days even in No
] yember when thin froeks may be
put on. in the house as wistful re-
mtnder OF summer. but it Is always
yisest to look over the wardrobe and
PIT carefully away such dresses as will
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

wide band Of braid heads q satin hem.
Simple, isn't It?
In the last model we have mouse-eoi-
ored henrietta trimmed with darker
gray silk braid. The latter IL applied in
skirt and on the right Of the bodice. A
belt and shaped cuffs use the rest OF
your remnant. II you have been for
tunate enough to pick up piece At a
bargain sale. The rounded top line has
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

len OF choice should not be more couf1s-
Tag that usual. That We should walk In
silk attire this season was definitely
promised TO u In the autumn by more
than one important authority on matters
modisfic. and It is with great satisfaction
tnat tine writer Is able to record the fact
that this pleasant prediction is now In the
way OF immediate fulfillment. For those
who can afford such luxuries 1t seems
more than likely that gowns in soft silks
and satins Will be worn all day long,
and. every day. Soft colored eatins. with
blue, veiled In black chiffon, are quite the
most covetable possession OF the moment
where evening frocks are concerned.
.tInanks, primarily. to the colored doub-
Eure. and secondly. to the extraneous dco-
orative treatment. an immense variety Of
aspect liz wrought with these gowns.
Pale tinted charmeuse, more or less
deliberately embroidered. Will lead the
way erfumphantly among the colored
dance and dinner gowns So many Of the
beautiful materials now in favor are
ADAPTED to all-year-round use that frocks
or these soft satins, crepe, silk cashmere.
SILK mousseane. nets. etc. bought, per-
maps, Tor winter wear here, will answer
so1ourH ut Nice Cannes, Monte Carlo. etc.
Inc coming winter will not lessen the
demard for black and white, leaving, with
pleasure. the tartans and plaids. with
monopoly of the various great clans, the
latter day producer Of materials, moro
particularly the Partisan pioneer. have
banished all prejudices and launched
forth into exquisitely soft and pleasing
harmonies. And 1t IL to the arrival of
these that we may look in the very near
future: fabrics. however. employed mere
ly for skirts which will find a chic COM
pletion in self-colored cloth coats.
The colorings. needless to: say at this
date. are the perfection OF delicacy, with
a leaning to gray or neutral 1nts, with
the plaid effected nuances such as pals
ley green or gobelin blue. while very fire.
quently two colors are combined. such as
burnt sienna and blue. And though by
no means imperative. 1t Is customary for
the coat to emphasize one or another OF
the colors employed In the plaid. Heather
mixtures. tweeds and friexes are also
in demand. and are sure to be very much
worn. The always becoming k-and
white checks will make their perennial
appearance. too. rendered doubly attrac-
tive by the Introduction Of color N the
shape OF a smart lavalliere tie of nattier
blue or bright green, In satin or crepe dc
chine.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

Among the handsomest and most attrac-
tive items designed for the winter season
are long coats reaching almost to ths
hem of the skirt, and fashioned Of q
heavy make OF velvet In black. deep
shades OF mulberry, wood brown or myT-
tie, which are worked all over with. SOU
tache designs which cover the surface.
and leave very little Of the velvet vfsaeae
underneath. These coats fit closely to the
figure. and are fashioned with long. fairly
tight sleeves reaching to the wrist, while
In many cases they are innocent OF any
revers or iapels. long narrow panel OF
unadorned velvet cutting through the
coat from shoulders nearly to the hsm.
and merging in q long sharp point, while
it is studded with velvet buttons on either
side. a
These jackets may be extremely becona-
ing. and they can be made quite warm by
putting in an interlining Of "cuatine." the
silk lining supplied being in any one OF
the fashionable colors in vogue. Supple
silver brocades which are much in vogue
are suggested or handsome lining in
shade matching the color of the coat:
nothing. though, equals dead-whtte satin
as lining for these wraps, which are
sometimes edged with Q heavy fringe or
trimmed with fur or narabou. The same
trimming is charming on velvet dresses or
cloth mantles, and on satin or lace
dresses with jackets Of the tailormade
order. either long or short. and linen and
real lace iabots are much worn. thick.
very long, leaving only the waist line
uncovered. Frills, though, and side frills
are conspicuous by their absence.
The writer has already spoken In these
columns OF the assured vogue OF velvet
this season, and there have appeared on
the modistic horizon various tentative
efforts In fancy varieties. Nor. with the
mood that Is upon US for harmonies OF
color effects brought. about by, the judi
cious combining OF velvet and fur. 10
there any reason to doubt the success or
more moderately priced .-veiveteens. are
procurable In such absolutely beautiful
shades, these fascinating combinations
are within the reach OF ALL The success
Of the striped. velveteens. Is also assured.
These. In two colors, always artstically
selected harmonies. should make up al
mirably. and several women's tailors have
graciousiy vouchsafed their intention OF
taking this departure UP with 1est. And
is directly responsible for so immediate
an acceptance OF novelty.
- X u
There is a certain chic Partisan gown
worthy Of description. II has . short.
chngingi skirt, free OF any 'dishguring
entraye band. and of decidedly, fuller d.
mensiops than that to which we have been
accustomed these last few months when
this unloyely mode reigned supreme. Soft
crepe de chine Of medium luster In q rich
shade Of amethyst. with velvet trimmings
In the same shade. and venetian lace, are
the component parts OF this charming
frock. The skirt. which Is Of velvet. cut
. sDpf fn ass snd without %
long tunic Of crepe de chine. which has
for bottom finish q handsome garu!ture OF
venice point which takes an upward and
exceedingly graceful movement.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
Slippers for My Lady's Boudoir.

the early moth of March and April that
does the most damage.
Slippers for My Lady's Boudoir.
THE prettiest bedroom slippers in the
world are those designed for Eng
lands queen dowager-at her express
command-for dearly does she love COM
fort in her own apartment. These slip
pers are really mules as they have
no heels, but rest fiat upon the sole, these
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

THERE is & way to clean real old
j lace at home when the owner fears
the valuable possession may be ruined
by a laundry. Soap should never be
FIRST, dissolve in warm water enough
soap to make q lather. Add a few drops
OF ammonia and place the lace in this.
Allow it to stand for fifteen minutes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES,
= PARIS FASHION NOTES.

Special Correspondents. Of TIN stxr.

0f TIN 6txx.
PARIS. November Il. 1910
rHING II more interesting ID
watch thxn the evoiution OF \
new vogue. When first there
appeared on this stHsan the
ridiculous hobble skirts conf1n-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27

and a little quilted silk. The edge might
be finished with narrow silk cord.
To Clean Real Old Lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-27


appeared on this stesas the
ridiculous hobble skirts confn-
ing the knees and the ankles. wp were in
clined to hold UP our hands at such a
vagary. The. early tentative Efforts were
certainly curfously upatrrac1ive. bun hy
degrees there has been worked out y
great elegance, which has awakened to
find itself famous as q leading fanny IN
the realms OF walking and demi-saison
toilets.
The cut OF the skirts in two parts seems
TO be generally adopted and gives many
combinations of different materials or
embroideries The first part OF the skirt
is quite stra ght. and just touches the
ground: the over-part takes the place Of
the tunic- Sometimes there viii tau under
the draped tunie, where evening dresses
are concerned founcs Of stlk-snbroad-
cred net while again the whois OK tho
front Will be incrusted with Jet 4 par
tic,llarly artistic model depended for IT.
worked In curious Egyptian design.
picked out with great slabs Of euf 5ee
that passed twice round the figure 70
finish in stole end that gradually tn
creased In width. as Il Bearod the base 0f
the drapery. in tn. best approved clasA-
cal manner. :.
This year gambling In fashion futpri. Ies
is a ventafessBf- business some lris-
fans already 'Srite OF fashion s<raws
showing a Grange Of current. Of $skir,s
taking on a frine more fullness. Of paI,-
niers, but al this is uncertain. a the air.
We SHAH no'l know definitely t/eforo Jam
uary or Feb ruary what to ex beut III con-
sequence Of this. clothes arr just INV de-
cidedly pc fplexing. They must bee smart
accordinsJ to existing csnons Of 6sshion.
but II they are made according. 10 &C.
cepted T'anagTtenne OF directoire j ideas,
viii ey be in style ncxt spring 3;kk' .thss
is the question ,'s
Monroe City Democrat. (Monroe City, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1910-03-24
Free Seed Corn.

Why not quit raising "sCrub"
corn? Why not plant enough pure
bred seed this spring to supply you
for the future? There is as much
difference between scrub" corn and
pure bred corn as there is between
a scrub" steer and a pure bred |
steer, Pure bred corn will produce
a much larger yield per acre than
ordinary seed. Until further notice
the Farmer and Breeder, published
Mt Columbia, Mo-, will give away
free a quart of pure bred corn with
every new subscription. A quart will
plant a quarter of an acre and give
you all the pure seed you need for
future use. The Farmer and Breed
er is big monthly and costs only
SOC per year. 1t is published in the
home of Missouri's great Agricul-
tural College and every issue is full
of articles by Agricultural experts
on the raising of all kinds of Farm
Crops, the Care and Feeding of Live
Stock, Dairying, Fruit Growing
Fertilizing the Soil, Poultry Raising
and every other farm subject. Any
single issue is worth the price.
Every ounce of this seed corn will
be tested by seed experts before it
is sent out. You can have either a
yellow or white variety. This ad-
vertisement is appearing in hun
dreds of newspapers and our sup
ply of seed will soon be exhausted.
So send or leave your subscription
at once at the Office of the Monroe
City Democrat, which will forward
it to us. If