davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
SonneOriental
Economies

"HE Chinese and japanese en-
broiderers, who do such won
- derful work. understand also the
value OF economizing time. expense
and trouble. For instance, the mems
and seams in some OF their goods
are made with stitches an inch or
more long, but these stitches are sN
arranged as 70 form themselves a
decoration. To go to another part OF
the orient again. Bagdad couch COW
ers are stitched together in strips
with very coarse thread and with very
long stitches. but anything else
would be entirely out OF place.
Some Japanese articles are left
without any hem at all. and yet they
always look we'll japanese towels
can be used for scarfs and furniturs
draperies. and with simply the cut
ends they look very nice indeed II
any hem at all be added, II should be
in coarse thread and large stitches.
Curtains OF large. open lattice mesh
are another article which should not
be hemmed, as they always draw.
Let them hang straight with the cut
edge. and the problem 10 solved and
a victory Is gained for economy OF
time.
One lightweight Japanese print
curtain, for example. was cut In fringe
at the top, the strands being about an
inch wide and six or eight inches
long, and the raw edges OF the slashes
were not trimmed IN any way. The
curtain was then hung over a pole so
that every alternate strip was thrown
over II, forming a sort OF ring. ana
the remaining strips were allowed to
fall loosely We would have bound or
faced this slash. whereas the JapanssS
understood the actual artistic value OF
economy and simplicity In sewing ana
finishing.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Comfortable Pockets

TYE ARE no longer the pocketless
NV sex, as our superi6r brothers
w were wont to dub us, for
pockets are now being given to us in
abundance and we are fairly reveling
in the comfort afforded by all shapes
and sizes.
Travelling coats have them. They
are gigantic IN size. ans are almost
capacious Nenough to hold an "over-
night" supply of clothes.
The latest innovation is the pocket
in the sleeve. 1t is attached to the
edge Of each sleeve of a motor coat
that is cut on comfortable lines and
resembles a loose topcoat The sleeve
pockets are like huge scanned cuffs, and
there are OF necessity haps that button
over the tops. These pockets are prob
ably for handkerchiefs or coin purses,
perchance a powder puff They are
ornamental, too, being decorated with
braid and buttons.
Then there are pockets that have
been introduced IN the Innings OF hats,
into which the fair owner may stow a
scented disk OF her favorite sachet,
that comes just for this purpose.
Little coin pockets are more general
IN the Jackets for afternoon wear. They
can be successfully concealed beneath
the long, supple revers or under the
tiny vests, and give the grain of COM
fort that we have lacked for many
seasons.
Verify we are entering our own JOY
Gus age OF a pocket for everything and
more pleased at the prospect than a
mere woman.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25

no NOT throw away or give away
old evening gowns, no matter how
-. worn out they may be. The woman
was making a mistake who said re-
Gently: when go to Europe throw
my worn-out evening frocks overheard
on my way home. The Atlantic must be
paved with my old clothes"
Evening dresses are always made of
material that Is worth saving. Whether
1t IL silk or velvet or one OF the pretty
silk-and-wool or silk-and-cotton mix
lures, the fabric or the trimmings can
be utilized and transformed into an aft
ernoon frock.
Here IS one example,. A gown of light
green silk henrietta had reached the
point where tts lace insertion gaped at
every movement, where single wear
ing was a succession of notifications.
and where ruff1es and furbelows were
things to inspire shame instead OF
pride. Then the clever owner had an in
spiratlon.
With a sharp penknife she ripped out
all the lace and removed the worn tunic
and draperies, leaving the fresh, bright
goods beneath. 1t was very pretty, 1t
had been much admired, and she de-
termined ii was worth saving. So she
Fashioned for herself a yoke and under
sleeves of dotted net, worked dots over
IN green to match the henrietta, and
bought. by chance remnant of green
silk that happened just TO match also.
''Id have got that or panne velvet in
the same shade, anyway" she said.
but just happened upon this
OF the silk she made pipings, buttons
and lapels, effectually covering all the
parts of the fabric that still showed
wear. On the skirt, where the part
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
O =
O O
O

revers. The buttons were covered by
q professional for a modest fee. The
whole work was done in less than
ton to be made.
Even where styles are actually very
different compromises and improvements
can be made by the woman with an
eye to the practical and the artistic
alike. And when 1t is a question of
doubling the days OF a dearly loved
evening gown-it Is evening gowns, I
think, that we women grow most
attached to-a little time and trouble
Is trife, indeed. Besides. think of a
new and pretty afternoon frock fit for
calling and teas and bridge parties, from
a worn-out rag seemingly ready for the
scrapbag or the bottom of the Atlantic!
The gown itself will suggest it's own
changes. Always there will be yoke
and undersleeves to consider, but apart
from this, there Is infinite variety of
choice and treatment. Fortunately, last
years styles were draped and volAmi-
nous; this years are narrow and
simple. Much can be done, as in the
green henrietta, by the simple removal
of superfuities. Sometimes yelling
with chiffon or tulle will redeem a
faded material, or embroidery hide a
spotted one. And do not forget the dye
pot and the stencil brush If it is the
fabric that is passe, use the trimmings
on another dress; but never throw away
or discard anything capable of such
charming and economical transforma-
ton
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
AFTERNOON FROCKS FROM
EVENING GOWNS

covered by the tunio still showed
brighter than that beneath, she placed
a soft fold of silk that hid the unpleas-
ant contrast. AT the bottom Of the yoke
revers and a double row OF silk-covered
buttons concealed IN the same way the
ravages of the drapery. The collar, the
oversleeves and the girdle were piped
with silk to give a unified appearance.
Still all was not complete. The sleeves
were distinctly dingy by the side Of the
re1uvenated waist and bodice, and she
felt she @must in some way hide one
difference. This, she did by emoroioer-
ing down them two rows OF SILK oots
like those in the net yoke. but just
shade darker. BY contrast they made
the worn henrietta seem lighter, ana
yet they themselves appeared the same
shade as the yoke dots, which were
too far away for close comparison.
Here at a trifiing cost was new
dress which her most critical ac-
auaintances would never recognize.
"The most 1 ever had said to me-" she
laughed, was when some one remark
ed that I must be very fond of green
silk henrietta to have two dresses of
It in two successive seasons. I am fond
Of it, my dear I answered: Besides, the
occasions, and then I'm afraid my last
years one is getting a bit played out.
Too much work for too little return?
II you say that, you do not belong to
the great sisterhood that must save and
contrive in. matters of dress, and this
article is not for you. The work, more
over. Is not so very much Aside
satin stitch, there was practically moth
ing to do but sew on silk pipings and
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Eyelet Over Felt

A n INTERESTING variation on the
~ lingerie hat was seen recently. II
4 n consisted OF a dark grayish blue
felt in cloche shape, completely COW
cred with linen embroidered in English
eyelet (what the French call broderie
anglaise). The only trimming the hat
possessed were two stiff bows of the
eyelet, lined with panne velvet the
color of the hat.
Here is good idea for the utilization
of last years felt hat and this sum-
mer's lingerie. Look into 1t. ye'wise and
economical maidens
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25

OwKNOTS and eyelets are al
u yavs beautiful, and IN the de-
sign that I am giving today 1
think that they are combined in
one Of the most attractive forms that
have seen this season.
The centerpiece is for large oval
dolly that can grace a tray or the table
beneath a platter.
You will pierce the eyelets, overcast
with loose stitches and then work ac-
curately with fine overcasting for each
eyeIet. The work is much longer than
these directions would lead you to be-
lieve, but the results are beautiful
When working the bowknots. use the
French method Of filling in-the tiny
seed stitches shown by the parallel
short lines. These are back stitches
done with one strand OF thread.
The edges Of the ribbon you will
work in outline stitch, and then, just
for good measure. you will go over
the line and whip the outline into
cordlike shape.
Notice how attractive the edge OF
the centerpiece is. The scallops are
narrow, insuring against inaccura-
cies: the padding is quickly done on
these forms. Buttonhole stitches viii
be used, and then an extra row Of but
tonholing on the edge 10 give durability
TO this pretty thing.
When I give these suggestions, my
dear readers, feel that I ought to
point the other way. for the woman
who doesn't wish 10 work in eyelets
Solid dots, then. are the effective alterna-
tive. and a solid bowknot filed in with
satin-stitch. I am sure that I am at q
loss TO say which I ike the better.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Baby S Screen

nY o MAKE an attractive screen for
the nursery. get a light bamboo
Il screen Gan old one will do) and
remove the silkoline with which these
are usually covered Substitute dark
ed or green cambric and cover It with
coIored pictures. pasted on so that each
panel is given over to one kind, such
as flowers, animals, children. etc. The
screen will prove fts value in the early
morning hours, when the baby will lie
and look at the pictures instead OF
starting an untimely concert.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
A Novel Chemisette

6evIY HAT pretty chemisette that
wv is in your blue dressl'' ex-
" claimed one girl to another.
The second maiden smiled. DO you
know what 1t is7' she asked Moth
ing but an old Irish lace coat collar
that was getting too worn out to do
service for its original purpose. /
tucked 1t into the collarless frock am
wearing, so that the best parts showed,
and stitched 1t In lightly. And behold
Q pretty and moved chenisette."
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
What to Give Baby

A RATTLE-revolving ring ana
- ball, ball and handle. or swing
- - ing-an crocheted over.
A brush and comb set IN a satin-cov-
cred box. the latter embroidered.
A talcum shaker or a powder pun and
box. hand painted.
A silver or painted soapdish.
A bib and napkin holder. silver, ana
silk, with initials on the clasp.
A hand-painted satin ribbon PIN
holder. in the appropriate color.
Baby armlets OF silk elastic and lace.
serving for sock garters also.
Embroidered Hnen-covered jewel aM
trinket boxes OF cardboard. two or four
drawers. to hold the little pins and
studs and rings.
A ribbon hair bandeau-a novel gift.
easily made at home.
Bah armlets IN ribbon rosette style.
Baby clothes hanger. clothes rack and
drier, or clothes tree. in hand-painted
white wood.
A measuring stick Of painted wood.
pink or blue. according TO the baby's
sex
Baby carriage or high chair straps
with toys attached.
A musical ball. or other toy OF the
same kind. also crocheted.
A baby record book or diary, with a
leather or hand-painted satin cover.
A nursery clock. with painted china
case.
A tiny hct-water bag, with a satin
or crocheted silk cover.
A satin ptncushion. with a bisQue doll
top. or dainty handmade one OF lace
and lawn over silk.
Baby brush and comb set. painted
with flowers
Ribbon box with hand-painteds bod
kin attached.
Carved thermometer for the baby's
bath.
All the various clothes and dress ac-
ceSsories, from hand-embrcidered
dresses to little sunbonnets.
Gold or silver dipped diaper pins,
In an embroidered pin roll.
Little beaded leather shoes, with silk
socks. a
But whatever It is, send your preserJ -
as soon as possible after the announce
ment of the little ones arrival
And everything here can either be
made, trimmed or improved by the
clever and saving needleworker or the
girl quick with her brush and stencil a
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Mending Hint

TTYHEN a glove edge is torn or
NV ripped. buttonhole 1t with fine
cotton thread of the same color,
using a very small-size needle. Then
whip these buttonholed edges together.
Even kid gloves may be mended in this
way so that they will stand any
amount of wear. as the cotton does not
cut the glove.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
The Vogue of Satin

[(N Atm" says a Paris authority,
lis used for everything that a
~ woman could carry"
That includes handbags, scarfs, para
soils, bands on long gloves, the new
reticules in our grandmothers' style,
fans, everything-all appear in heavy
satin, usually in black or IN black and
white.
So look carefully TO that material for
all your dress accessories.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Towel Borders

"OWELS that have been embroidered
with initials and monograms
- should have embroidered borders
also. These may be straight or seal
loped, and should be embroidered in
such designs as wild rose. aster, for
get-me-not and trefoil patterns and con-
ventionalized wreaths, bowknots and
flowers
Towels, sheets or pillowcases thus
embroidered are JOY forever and a
priceless gift to the particular and
beauty-lov1ng housewife.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
To Thread Needles

TTERE Is a useful device invented
II by a clever woman, and which
- should have a place on every
sewing table. Get block of wood two
or three inches square. double
pointed tack Qike the kind used In
mattings) and a small folding reading
or magnifying glass.
Open the glass and lay the cover ON
top of the block OF wood; let the
glass project its full size over the size
OF the block Then fasten In place with
the tack If block of wood is not
obtainable, use an empty spool of bast-
ing thread size.
When you want to thread a small
sized needle, hold the needle and the
thread under the glass and you will
have no trouble in getting II through
the eye. When you use the machine,
tip the block over near the needle and
save time and trouble there also.
These blocks are invaluable for
elderly women and those too busy 10
bother with threading and unthreading
needles continually. A good plan is to
thread before starting to sew, all the
needles with their different kinds of
thread and silk that you are likely to
have use for.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25


run net laces and alencon and chan
tilly. with their notifications.
ChantiiIy laces show an odd modi-
fcation in the shape OF Persian fg-
urings on black or colored back
grounds Sometimes they show me-
tallic figuring also.
Indeed. metallic laces are TO be very
popular this autumn. They are large
" net laces combined with crystal.
composition, wooden and rubber
beads.
French flet is coming back into
style also. Darned flet allover net
used in the banded-in style, is being
shown on many OF the new fall
gowns from Paris
vaIenciennes shows some new and
beautiful designs. Often two distinct
motifs are employed. alternating Just
above the scalloped edge OF the lace.
other allover combinations much IN
demand are net with landings Of
lace. and allover embroideries, chiefly
tn openwork and English eyelet effects.
Peasant embroidery and cross
stitch are the favorite for handwork
IN colors, especially for such articles
as bedroom sets, shirtwaist and vest
fronts, ETC.
Embroidered hounces are extensive
y combined with plain lawn, batiste
and linen gowns and petdcoats. En-
broidered bands and founcings will
be much used for trimmings on
underwear.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
To Save Stockings

tn ROM being torn by the garters,
r. stitch an inch-wide strip of silk
ribbon round the top. 1t gives the
stockings q new lease of life and pre-
vents needless darnine.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Lace and Embroidery

A LLOYER lace is in demand, TO
"A serve as overblouses and tunics.
4 u The favorite varieties are SILK
run net laces and alencon and chan
tilIy, with their notifications.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
To Hold Flowers

m O WEAR a cluster OF flowers or a
single blossom on a tailor-made
coat, sew little loop of heavy
braid underneath the collar lapel, with
the ends sewed together at the outer
edge, just under the buttonhole.
In this way flowers can be attached
without sticking pin into delicate
cloth just where it will show most. 1t
Is plan adopted by men also for their
boutonniereS, and a very useful one.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Rents in White Goods

"OR darning a rent in fine white
II goods, use one strand of No.
l. 80 spool cotton, untwisting the
thread This makes a less apparent
dress darn than does the finest twisted
thread. 1t is. In fact actually invisible
If properly done.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25

TIVE ARE no longer the pocketless
NV sex, as our superisr brothers
w were wont to dub US, for
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25

other allover combinations much In
demand are net with landings Of
lace. and allover embroideries. chiefly
IN openwork and English eyelet effects.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25
Oval T:dyCothM

OWKNoTS and eyelets are al
- ways beautiful, and in the de-
sign that I am giving today 1
.l.s-,- .t,o+ 4her are combined in
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-25

valenciennes shows some new and
beautiful designs. Often two distinct
motifs are employed. alternating Just
above the scalloped edge OF the lace.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08

One lot scalIoped edges, the 81. 90
value. Sale price, per pair. 79c
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08

One lot fancy designs, 60c value.
Sale price, per pair .... 4oe
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08
Lace Curtains

One lot narrow tucked, plain cen
tiers. Regular value SOC. Sale
price. per pair ........3 3c
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08
Muslin Curtains

One lot narrow tucked. plain CEN
ters Regular SOC value. Sale
price, per pair ..........3 3c
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08
TALK OF THE TOWN

Miss Nellie Stoughton went to Bos-
ton to-day for visit with friends.
One last chance to see jack Johnson
training for the championship match at
Reno. At the Biiou.
Alexander Smith left to-day for Kinks
vile. Me-, to resume his studies in the
Still school Of osteopathy,
Mr. and Mrs Ray Southgate, who have
been visiting at the home Of his par
ents, Mr.. and Mrs. G. T. Soutngate, left
this noon to visit relatives in South
Royalton, before going to their nome IN
Boston. They were accompanied to
South Royalton by Mrs. G. 1. South
gate.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08
TALK OF THE TOWN.

Excursion to Montreal. See adv. on
page Q.
See the corded madras for waists, only
Zoe yard, at Nangnan's.
Mrs. F. d. Lawrence. who has been
ticket agent for the Central Vermont
at West Townshend, has been trans.
ferred to the station in this city.
The public is cordially invited to come
TO the w. G. I Z. hash supper Friday
night from 4:30 to $50, at the Method
ist church vestry A free-will offering
will be taken for the benefit Of the hos
pital
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08
TALK OF The TOWN
Great curtain sale at Fits saturdI

Great curtain sale at Fits Saturday.
E. Estabrook and F. w. Stevens Of
Rutland were among the business Wis
itors in the city to-day
Mr.. and Mrs. Edmund Kelly returned
yesterday to their home in Bath, n. H.,
after visiting with relatives here for the
past week
Mr.. and Mrs. Benjamin N. Batchelder
returned yesterday from their wedding
trip and last evening they were given a
serenade by part Of their friends It
their home on Elmwood avenue. The
couple were presented with handsome
chair
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08
TALK OF THE TOWN

James Given went 20 Concord, n. H.
to-day on a business trip.
E. G. Boyco went 70 st. Adams to.
day for visit with friends.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08
roo LATE TO BE CLASSIFIED

TO RENT Desirable furnished front room
on first floor. Address French street. or cal
before A. N. or after A., d. l4Hlt
TO RENT Furnished room. Electric light,
bath. and furnace heat. Apply At NO Central
street 4sthF
FOR SALT--Housohoid furniture, consisting
OF two beds. two bureaus and ono commode.
Apply 10 No. 100 Seminary street. after four
oieioek 1869
WkNTED-Few more men to look after our
business In unoccupied territory. Position
permanent good pay. q. r. Burr 4 COMPANY,
nurserymen. Manchester Conn. l4Vtfs
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08

THURSDAY. SEPTEMBER 8, 1910.
weather PredictIOn.

Cloudy, with showers. Moderate t,
variable winds.
The Barre daily times. (Barre, Vt.) 1897-1959, 1910-09-08

One lot fancy borders with plain
centers, very fine. The regular
So. 90 value. Sale price. per
pair. ....... ...... 5000
The Salt Lake herald-Republican. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1909-1918, 1910-11-04
NOTICE TO CONTRACrORs.


NOTICE Is HEREBY GIVEN THAT
sealed bids Will be received by the
county clerk OF Salt Lake county up
to 10 O'clock a. m, November Il, 1910.
for material ana labor required for the
erection OF an infirmary- hospital build
ing for Salt Lake county, Utah. stu
ated on the northeast corner OF 18th
South and State, Salt Lake City, Utah,
ficatiOns which are on file and open
for inspection of the bidders AT the
office OF j. A Headlund. architect, beS-
24-Z5 Dooiy building, Salt Lake City.
All bids must be addressed TO -Coun-
ty Commissioners, Salt Lake county"
and marked in the lower left hand cor
ner bids" OF such bids may be deliv-
cred 10 the county commissioners at
said time and place of opening same.
Bids must not contain conditions,
qualifications, propositions or any other
things than those mentioned in the
plans, specifica lions. drawings. contract
and bond. and bidder must use the form
OF bids which will be found at tbs Of
flee OF said architect and no other form
of bid will be received
The successful bidders will be re-
quested and expected TO enter into two
contracts. First: for the excavation
and erection OF all concrete up 10 grade
line, including reinforced steel up 10
first floor. on November p, 1910. Sec
Ond: fer the completion OF said build
ing on the I'd day of January, 1911, az
10 o'clock a. N.
a C6ltilleQ OL CashiSI SISsA on some
bank in Salt Lake City, Utah, for al
least per cent OF the amount of each
bid must be enclosed. Each check is
to be made payable 10 the county com
missiOners and is TO be forfeited 10 the
county commissioners in case the bid is
accepted, ana the bidder does not enter
into contract within three days after
its acceptance for the faithful eXecu-
ton of the contract and bond herein
after mentioned.
half of the bid with good and suffi-
Gent suTeties, all satisfactory to the
county commissioners.
The county commissioners reserve
the right 10 reject any and all bids
BY order OF the board Of county COM
missiOners-
MARGARET ZANE WITCHER,
(SealD County Clerk.