The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-02-20
WHAT Mrs. simcox Says.

March says:
The fuller skirt will also be recalled
for summer dresses. Even now 1t Is
used very considerably, but the full
ness is handled in such an adroit man
ner that you are scarcely aware OF
Its presence. In, dress that L made
not long ago I'll olive green crepor
\ the skirt was SO full at the sides thai
lit was gathered--positively gathered
at the waistlne across the hips
But the material was so ephemera
that it made no bulk whatsoever II
spite of the fulness. And just abou
at the knees. on either side of TIN
ornaments, of oblong shape, into which
4 all the fulness disappeared, never t.
be seen again.
Crooks OF Rainbow lfucs.
The same fashion periodical is auth.
ority for the assumption that the nav
suitings promise us coats of many
colors and trotteur frccks of rainbow
hues. The two toned effects that APP
peared first with the taffetas chang
cants of last year have crept into the
tweeds and homespuns. Many of the
wool materials have rough surfaces
and loose ,vcaves of soft, heavy threads
oatmeal cloths. canvas cloths and
hop sackings most of them are called
They arc extremely swagger look
| ing and suggest all manner OF good
| looking tailored suits. The colors are
light and underlined. Very frequently
| tho warp threads are of one color and
| the wool threads OF another. so that
| the>>material shifts and shades from
one tone into something quite different.
| For the most part they are light.
Tho tans range from putty color to
| channels and go no further. The
greens arc olive, lizard and sweet
grass The heliotropes and violets are
very soft and subducd. The rose
shades are practically dead, and in their
place we have amber, gold and butter
| color. Blues are always good. but
this year they are even better than
| usual, especially in the lighter shades
| of Gobelin, Beauvais and Delft.
| In the suit materials and designs
are almost as indefinablc as the coll
ors There are few diaSonals. and the
! ones that are shown might almost be
called shadow diagonals. SO faint and
| fine have they become. Star checks
81 peculiar pattern that is entirely new
| and very smart, and SMALL almost
undecipherable stair pattern are the
| two newest offerings of the manufact-
urers. Most of the materials are me-
| ldnges of one sort or another. and even
| the new moiairs that come nearest to
absolute plainness have the two toned
| coloring.
Frogs and Soutnchc.
| Edouard La Fontaine n the Delinea-
| tor is uncertain as to whether the
| women OF Paris have become infected
! with the militant spirit OF our sisters
| across the Channel, but at any rate
| many of the new coats are trimmed
1 with military looking braid, frogs and
soutache. At the Palais de Glace a
| day or two ago. he says, I saw an ex-
/ cellent suit Of fine surfaced vigoyne
| in 4 new shade of bleu de France. The
underskirt was plated and joined to a
close fitting princess body. that formed
| the upper part of the dress.
| The front panels of the dress and
| coat were heavily braided with officers
soutache III the conventional military
fashion. Suspended from tho shout
ders of the coat and reaching almost
to the waistline wcre long loops of
heavy cord such as are worn by the
officers of line OF certain regiment,
very popular in Paris. There are other
coats that go under the name Of the
"Garde F'rancaise' because of a re-
sempIance. real or Imagined. between
them and the uniforms of the National
| Guard
I nave also seen chic-looking street
costumes in bright sailor-blue serge.
trimmed extensively with brass but
tons. One Of this latter class that
saw recently was made with a very
short rather loose-ftting coat. There
were no seams at all in the front, and
only two in the back, and they were |
set well apart and ran up into the
armhole and not to the shoulder, so /
that the back. too had a seamless APP
pearance. The coat had long roll
In, Sto
with three or four brass buttons OF
prodigious size. The skirt was gored |
and put together with tuck at each |
seam. It was mounted on a shallow |
pointed yoke, and was worn with |
plated blouse of white linen with the
usual cascade frill Of lace and lawn
buttoned under the scalloped closing
OF tho front
New GIrlles Easily Made.
Helen Berkeley Lloyd. writing In
tho March Delineator thinks we must
acknowledge our belts and waistlines.
once more. !;
Many of the new dresses show the /
natural waistline sharply defined by the !
girdle OF the skirt or waist. In some
of them the arrangement is quite SIM
pie. For instance, the other day saw
q dress OF cloth and chiffon in which
the eleven gored skirt ran UP an inch
or two above the waistline, forming
close fitting belt. The waist was a
tucked Jumper of chiffon trimmed
at the square neck and down the
shoulder and sleeves--which. by the
way, were cut in one with the body
with stitched bands of the cloth. The
bodice had no girdle of It's own. but
was attached to the skirt under its
belt extension.
That. OF course, is the simplest ver-
sion OF the girdle, and is really COM
promise between the beltless prin-
cess dress that we still love devotedly
and tho newer ideas on waistlines,
The girdle is more elaborate in the
draped dresses, where the drapery fre-
quently takes the form of q pinafore
bib.
The new g!rdles are decidedly deepI
in front,--in fact. some of them run
quite up to the chemisette of the waist
and form the principal trimming OF
the bodice In others the belt, though
decidedly deeper in front than at the
sides and back, Is not exaggerated as
the bib or pinafore girdle. 1t is very
easy matter to make one OF these new
girdles and mount it on an old bodice.
Tho effect Is really quite surprising. for