Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1910-04-12
fairbanks Expedition Reached
1ou of TaIIest Peak in North
America April 8.
NO TRACE OF COOKS CLIMB
Utterly Failed to Verify Any Part
OF the Story Of His Al
legged Triumph.
..st,cles Encountered We're Not So
Great as Had Been
Predicted.

fairbanks. Alaska, April 12.-The
v,i,hanks expedition TO Mount McHin-
low the tallest peak in North America.
cached the summit April g. after "a
climb Of one month from the base. No
traces OF DR. Frederick A.. Cooks
alleged ascent were found.
Tbomas Lloyd. leader Of the expedi-
,or arrived here last night His com
,,nlons were Daniel Patterson, w. r.
rsylor and Chas. McGonnigle and all
reached the top OF the great mountain.
The expedition. which left Fairbanks
pa, Is. while the controversy over Or
cooks disputed ascent was still rag
INK was finished by Gus Peterson and
MILAN McPhe Of this city. The plan
vas TO go into camp on the mountain
e. nigh as possible. and probably,
about the middle OF May. make a dash
Tor the summit
The obstacles encountered We're not
o. great as had been expected.
Four camps were esta blished during
,he ascent and a trail was blazed all
The way to the crest. Up 10 1900
f.et the climbing did not present un-
usual difficulties. For the next 1000
feet the way led over a steep Ice field
which al first semed to forbid further
progress but through which, upon ex-
poration it was found possible to To-
cate a path
The final dash to the top was made
fem the 5000 foot camp.
Mount Mckinley terminates in Twin
Peaks OF equal height. one somewhat
rounded and covered with snow. the
olhsr composed Of bare and wind swept
roks on the rock peak the Fairbank's
climbers placed an American nag in
9 monument Of stones.
The expedition. which was provided
With Dr. Cooks maps and books, en-
dsayored to follow his alleged route.
but utterly failed TO verify any part OF
hs story OF an ascent.
The Mount Mckinley expedition. news
Of which has been received from Fair
banks Is made up OF Thomas Lloyd.
Robert Horn. Harry karsten and
Charles McGoingle, all experienced
containers
Word that reached Seattle says the
climbers had reached an elevation OF
-N feet without great difficulty. At
hat point they were confronted by an
amost perpendicular wall OF ice that
stretched more than 1900 feet TO the
summit
The men stated that they had found
gap In the ice wall and believed they
would be able TO reach the top. The
expedition was equipped with a dog
team and supplies and with the
huer they established a base at the
loot Of the mountain. They planned
% make the dash for the summit at
ne break Of winter in May.
Inc members Of the party agreed to
llHeit 5000 IL none OF them reached
The summit.
One Of their objects was to verify
or disprove 10 their own satisfaction
ne claim OF DR.. Frederick A. Cook
mat he reached the summit in the fall
Of 1906
DR.. Cook claimed to have assembled
Mount Mckinley and to have reached
the summit on Sept. 10. He said he
leii az the top Of the mountain proofs
mat he had been there.
Prof Herschel c. Parker OF Columbia
university was a member OF the ex-
leiton that Dir. Cook led to the noun
tain and he later disputed DR. Cooks
assertion that he reached the summit
ster the professor and other com
lanions had turned back
recently Prof Parker organized an
expedition 20 attempt the ascent Of the
mountain and II was planned that this
party should leave New York about
april Is next They Intended 10 go to
seatte and thence by steamship 20
Oook Inlet From that point the party
panned TO travel by mOtorboat TO the
nuinita glacier whore permanent
pase would be established
Mount Mckinley Is the assumed Gull
hhhatng point Of the North American
.ontlneht and in the Alaskan range.
autude So degrees, 4 minutes north.
longitude l5l west It's height is given
y ~ 4e feet. II Is extensively glaciated
si W. mas always been regarded as most
linicult Of ascent