Watertown leader. [volume] (Watertown, Jefferson County, Wis.) 1909-1911, 1910-08-12

tents than we had before and spent
the remainder of the morning in that
pursuit.
Finally, hunger suggested a change
of occupation and as luck would have
it the IwamOto inn was close at hand.
We found that they serve three grades
of meals at so sen, one yen and 1.5O
yen. We ordered the medium grade
and were taken at once through a long
descending passage to a pretty room
probably the lowest in the building
nestled in an open space upon the
rocky shore, from which one looked
out upon the sea. A lovely cliff with
pines rose on our left; before us and
to the right the bay lay in sunlight:
the waves rippled and dashed upon
the rocky beach only few feet below
US. The surface of the bay was dotted
with fishing-boats, many of which had
their square sails raised; the distant
breaking of the surf upon the shelly
beach was clearly audible But eyerv
paradise has it's discord; here, multi
tude of fies-the first we have seen
since coming-troubled us. The meal
itself was fine, and made Of course Of
marine food. There was fish SCUM.
roast fish, raw fsh-in beautiful thin
slices-clams. The piece de resistance.
however, both theoretically and prac.
tically, was one of the great spiny
shelled snails. Plainly it had been
roasted in the oven fire, as the shell
was hot and blackened on the lower
side; the great operculum fitted the
opening and we expected on lifting it.
to find the solid mass of flesh within.
to our surprise, however, we discoy-
cred that the animal itself had been
taken out, cut to pieces and boiled, re-
placed in the shell and covered over.
But we had still the exploration of
the island before us. The steep road
soon brought us to a sort of shrine
where an old man forced himself upon
us as our guide. We climbed I'D
flights of steps and rocky trails. We
saw the temple sacred to Benten with
ancient curios recalling past wars.
Finally, we reached the summit and
followed the crest for some distance.
There were still shell-shops, and at
points of outlook, teahouses. From
the first of these we looked down over
e. fine cliff with pines upon whirling
water. We passed a sheIl-worker
where heaps of shells were being
worked up into trumpets. Resisting
all allurement of shell-shops and tea
houses alike, we finally reached the
very edge of the rocky mass and
started down the steep descent, partly
by steps and in part over the rocky
footpath. We were soon near the
waters edge. The tide was coming in
and the current whirled and swirled
in every direction, striking in fine
foam upon the half covered reefs Of
rock. Here and there under rough
shelters were men dressed In coolie
garb, who seemed to have nothing
particular to occupy them. We as
sumed that they were pilgrims from
the country who had come to visit the
sacred cave. The foothpath passed
from the rocky Lodges on to a foot
bridge, which brought up after turns
and curves into view of the famous
sacred cave. 1t makes fine impress
sion from the slight bridge trail, with
it's altar It the very back Of the great
grotto. When we were well within
and had taken a drink of Benten's
sacred water we were supplied with
candles and made our way through the
long tunnel-cavern which extended far
into the rock mass. Here in the dark
ness are little shrines to many differ
ent gods.
On our way back an old man per-
sistently begged to do something for
ten sen. Finally we yielded to his
solicitation and the ten sen were pro-
duced. To our surprise, he proceed
ed at once to climb down the rocky
slope to the very edge of the still
rising water In a shallow grotto he
threw Off his clothing and prepared
to dive 1t really looked perilous
thing to do, as the current was very
strong and constantly dashing over
jagged ledge of rock. The old rascal,
however, did the feat neatly, and re-
dppcdl Ing LII d uOluSAIy Win SFNIy
evidence of expecting appreciation,
handed us one of the spiny shells with
the living snail within. The suppo-
sition was that he had brought it from
the sea bottom for our benefit. Cham
berlain suggests in the hand book
which of course gives us all our in
formation, that he took 1t with him
when he dived, which seems quite
likely.
1t was getting late; we fastened to
climb the cliff and the great stairway,
and soon were standing against the
summit of the island. This time we
stopped at the tea house on the cliff.
It is we'll worth while. The preci-
pice is almost vertical at it's margin.
The rugged mass of rocks over which
the trail passes lies at its foot. and
the little bridge trail clings to the
cliff. at every point where there Is q