davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
How to Apply the
Design
THERE are two ways to apply

THERE are two ways to apply
i this design to the material
upon which you wish to work it.
If your material is sheer-such
as handkerchief linen, lawn, batiste
and the hke-the simplest method
is to lay the material over the de-
sign and, with a well-pointed pencil,
draw over each line.
If your material is heavy, secure
a piece of transfer or impression
paper Lay it, face down, upon this;
then draw over each line of the
paper design with a hard pencil or
the point of a steel knitting needle.
Upon lifting the pattern and trans
fer paper you will find a neat and
accurate impression of the design
upon your material.
There are two points to observe
IN this simple process, if you would
execute it satisfactorily. One is,
see that your material is level-cut
and folded by a thread-and that
your design is placed upon it evenly
at every point.
The second is, when placed accu-
rately, secure the design to the ma
terial with thumbtacks or pins so
that they cannot slip during the
operation.
Transfer paper comes in white,
black, blue, red and yellow. ad-
wise the use of the lighter colors
when possible, as the black and blue
are so liable to crock.
Do not rest your hand or fingers
upon any part of the design you are
transferring, else the imprint Of
hand or fingers viii be as. distinct
upon the material as the drawn
lines Of the design.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
HOok-and-Eye Science

THE pitiable novice in the sewing
room never knows anything about
Il the hook and eye. notwithstand-
ing the amount that has been learned
about this provoking little piece OF wire.
Let US begin. for her. with the small
est Of all. They are No. 0. and their
use is confined. firstly. to collars; sec
ondly, yokes Of net or lace. and. thirdly,
20 the hooking over OF lace flowers or
leaves on certain elaborate creations to
bring about a perfect smoothness.
The No. 0 hook is a very tiny affair
indeed. and TO prevent fits turning over
its two eyelets should be spread apart
with the scissors tip before they are
sewed fast.
This spreading process applies to
every other size as well. and serves also
20 make more shallow a great many
hooks and eyes when the hem space is
TOO narrow for long ones.
The eye is rarely used in nice work.
and when necessary for firmness. the
invisible eye is chosen. This is. at times.
embroidered over: and. again, in its
stead. there is used a tiny brass ring.
embroidered in buttbnhole stitch II
may be more readily worked after il has
been sewed in place. The ordinary but
tesoholed looo IS more frequent than the
others, and the -old-fashioned eye-a
wicket-shaped affair. that usually re-
vealed itself when il should have re-
maIned conceaIed-is now discarded.
Nos. and are good yoke and bodice
hooks. and when the vent of a skirt IS
carefully made. so that it does not
strain and gap. very small hook
proves more desirable.
Two No. 2 hooks. with invisible ewes.
are better on skirt bands than one he
roic-sized hook that presses into the
spinsl column.
When the shirtwaIst and skirt are
joined in this rather primitive but most
successful way, the three hooks on the
skirt should be No. S's. but the eyes
tWicket-shaped) on the skirtband may
be quite large.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Sensible Laundry Bag
LAUNDRY bag can be work

A LAUNDRY bag can be worked
~ out in bilious pinks or greens. or
4 y in delicate and perishable colors,
defeating its own end. or it can be of a
restful shade of tan. trimmed with gold
en- brown. and embroidered with the
initials of the owner. in plain block les-
ters.
Gray crash with Chinese blue forms
a pleasing contrast, and gray with
black and pale yellow is capable of
being worked into large, effective de-
signs. Golden brown linen with dark
brown and yellow accents is a sensible
color scheme for laundry bag.
The construction of the bag is ex-
tremely simple, with dust-catching
frills and furbelows eliminated, and
comfortable roominess insured.
1t should be washable. and OF mate
rial that Is loosely woven. SO that air
can be freely admitted. These points
anent color. size and material are wor-
thy of your thought, IL you have the
shaping of this little accessory in mind
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20

70 WOMAN can pass remnant
M counter-or such is a masculine
- theory, and there were little use
in trying. to dislodge the idea from tRe
manly mind.
If she is accused let her benef1t py
what it holds even in the way OF
fancy work materials.
1t is foolish to let the ribbon sale
pass by when all the beautiful odo
lengths of hair ribbon in bayadere
stripe are the newest things for the
peasant bags.
This is the same well-known shlrred
bag for fancy work, gathered into a
round bottom, but with the fiowered
silk abandoned for the time being and
the bayadere stripe substituted. Cords
draw up this unique bag, a pair of
very long cords pulling in different
directions.
Fringes are a fancy work novelty
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Embroidered Scarf

HYIDE sash ribbon is the base: a
wv yard and half the length.
This will tie an ample bow
after going round the crown Of a little
girls spring hat.
The ends may be embroidered IN huge
coin spots after the circle has been
marked. or you may even basts over the
ribbon ussue-paper facing to be torn
away when the work is done.
An enc of handsome ribbon will ac-
commodate six to eight embroidered
spots as big as a dollar mark
Pad the spaces well and do the solid
work evenly. Make a choice OF some
rich peacock coloring like green upon
blue or. again. white upon black. accord
ing to the child's clothes.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Dyeing I.laces

Tyo COLOR very delicate French
lace. which is usually silk. it
Il may be stretched with thumb
tacks upon a board. with clean white
biotters beneath 1t. and painted with
gasoline and oil paint made very thin
This is done when laces are so ten
der that they would not stand dipping
and wringing.
broad, new varnish brush is used
for the painting of lace, and the
process is a most delicate one. involy-
ing great care.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Crib Blankets

DLANKETS for babies cribs are
X made in the most perfect of coll
- orings. but even more fascinating
are the designs in contrasting color.
On a blue border are rabbits in their
own soft and fluffy whiteness- Ducks in
a row are a delight to children. and
the cock that crows in the morn" is
exactly where he belongs.
Scotch plaid in bands borders many
richly colored blanket. the Victoria plaid
being most in evidence.
Silk ribbon bindings. on these best OF
blankets are a perfect match for the pre-
vailing color in border or center.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Your Evening Scarf

M AXE for your evening scarf two
M little rings of garter elastic to
A'A slip the ends through and to form
it into hood shape. They will be a
more satisfactory arrangement than the
knots at the side Of the head.
Each tiny garter. so measured that 1t
will tightly surround the scarf and
stay in place is covered with shirred
chiffon to match the scarf, and generous
headings of the doubled chiffon orna-
ment each edge. White silk elastic is
used, not because it shows. but for the
reason that it will longer retain its
elasticity.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Suede and Steel

A GRAY suede bag shaped like a
IA fieur-de-lis is most attractive in
4 n It's unique cut Its mounting is
steel. plain in design, which does not
interfere with the outlines of the bag.
and the beading differs from that usu-
ally seen. In that 1t Is done with large
instead of small beads.
They measure about an eighth Of an
inch in diameter and are OF cut steel
They are used to bring out a pattern
on the bag and also to outline its edges.
and at the same time to sew the two
sides of the bag together.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Weighing a Skirt
Ed Weights ara inclnaaa ,ritI

EAD weights are inclosed within
strips Of tape to sew to the un-
der side OF the hem on satin and
cashmere evening gowns.
They are purchased in this convenisne
form. which will save much trouble In
the covering OF the separate leads.
These strips are made OF black or white
cotton tape. and are intended to be COW
cred with false hem of the dress ma
terial before they are sewn TO the un-
der side of the hem.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Quilting for Hats

NOME very beautiful quiIlings for
ehildrens hats can be made more
~ successfully by hand than by ma
chine
They require a quantity OF ribbon vel
vet or ribbon more OF the latter be-
cause IL is less heavy. but the simple
mushroom shape will mean no further
expense for trimming. Your ineh-Wids
ribbon will work up we'll into a snap
py looking hat decoration when the two
ends that depend from the back. after
the quilting is tackled TO the hat. are
each passed through a jet or metal
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
|TlAJDENHAR TERN oy 4 Gen

w RESPONSE to another inquiry,
have provided this week g small
sized centerpiece showing a dainty
design Of maidenhair fern. The fair
embroiderer who made the request was
a wise woman. I agree with her tnat
this small fern would not develop sue
cessfully upon a larger piece Of work.
Our artist has worked out most deli
cate tracery for fern. stem and scalop.
Regular centerpiece linen of white,
with white rgercerized cotton. viii prove
the successful materials in the long run.
although delicate green may be used for
fern leaves and stems.
The stems should be worked in out
line stitch with more than usual care,
TO produce an effect Of delicate tracery.
The leafike portions may be solid or
they may be done in skeleton embroid-
cry; but I should advise the solid.
The shallow scalops are most charac-
teristic of the whole design, and their
slightly pointed outlines should not be
lost in the working Both the solid
leaves and the buttonholed scallops are
intended 10 be somewhat padded.
I have had numerous requests for this
piece Of work. and regret that its turn
could not have come sooner. 1t shall be
my endeavor 10 give all such designs
as are requested when space permits,
and the request is reasonable enough to
imply that a fair number Of my workers
may be benefited by 1t.
The centerpiece is highly popular ar
ticle. II is distinctly worth while.
Fashions in table linen are compara-
lively stable. and though the piece OF
work prove a long-drawn-out occupa-
ton. il IS usually a paying investment
in time. il material and in the finished
f-7a
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Cap Strings

"HE careful mother always makes
several pairs of strings for
u babys cap. These she hens at
their unfinished ends after their en-
broidered ends are worked.
They are not sewed to the cap. but
are pinned to its sides with small
gold safety pins. so that they are
removable after each wearing.
In no other way may the baby be
kept immaculate.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
The Down Quilt

"WO shades OF plain silk for two
sides OF a down quilt is the
- harmonious cover demanded by
the expert decorator for use in a bed
room already rich In blossoms. When
the wallpaper is gaudy sr even ordi-
narily figured in design. these plain
eye.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Stenciled Coat Hanger

PINEAPPLE gauze has been used
- over white wadding TO cover a
Il most attractive coat hanger. There
Is not stitch of shirring, nor is there
a puff in evidence. but the smooth
gauze has beon stenciled in continu-
Gus border pattern.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20

fastening the hook to a lace surface.
because silk stitches, in this case are
always evident. and wax is the warmest
friend Of the hook-and-eye specialist.
Rubbed on the thread. wax will tend to
hold the thread in place until firm fas-
tening is accomplished. 1t is nervous
work at best. and calls forth every pos
sible suggestion that may help the busy
woman.
To facilitate the finishing OF a gown
and to avoid unnecessary work, these
fasteners may be placed further apart
wherever there is no strain, and to save
time in the fitting process they may
be sewed on as soon as the line OF fas-
tening has been determined. Remove
them from the card with sharp knife.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20
Fringe on Hats

HRINGE-narrow silk fringe-is used
II 10 edge new straw hat, and very
Il softening is it TO the face. The
bows of ribbon, which are the sole
trimming. are also edged with the sams
narrow fringe.
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20

How do we sew these fasteners on?
Well. very frequently with thread.
Very coarse thread where strength is
required and finer thread on sheer ma
eye 10 slip.
Thread must positively be used for
The San Francisco call., 1910-02-20

Very large hooks have no place ex-
cept cn cloth capes and coats, where
they are placed with view to conceal
ing all except the goosebill, and their
eyes are usually a loop of tubular braid
or silk cord sewn along the extreme
edge Of the other side of the garment.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14

Mr.. H. o. Middleton had to go to st.
Louis, but seeing this advertisement,
waited till the date Of the excursion.
He applied to the agent at Menden-
hall for a ticket to st. Louis and re-
turn, but was told that he did not
have them.
Mr.. Middleton paid full fare to
Jackson and return, but took advant-
age of the cheap rate over the Illinois
Central to st. Louis. On his return
home the agent at Mendenhall inform
ed him he did have the tickets, but
did not know it. Mr.. Middleton then
put in a claim for the difference in
the round trip, including full fare to
and from Jackson, but the Gulf & Ship
Island has refused to pay 1t.
General Passenger Agent Hawley,
replying to Mr.. Middleton's letter,
said if he had bought round trip
ticket to st. Louis, at the regular fare,
the road would have made a refund,
but, under the circumstances, does not
think the claim is legal That is why
Mr.. Middleton took the matter up
with the commission.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14

country to replace Senior Castrlllo,
who has been promoted to be presl-
dent of the International Court of JUS
tice at Carriage.
Another important development
came in the declaration today that
Thomas C. Dawson the newly appoint
ed minister to Panama, had been
designated as a commissioner to pro-
coed forthwith to Managua. He sails
from New York tomorrow for Pana-
ma, and will make his way northward
from that point.
The commissioner goes to Managua
at the direct request of Acting Presi-
dent Estrada to negotiate for set
tlement of the Cannon and Groce and
other American claims, and it is
intimated that he may also assist in
floating a loan which will enable the
Nicaraguan government to settle with
it's creditors.
Still another intimation is that Com
missioner Dawson is going to confer
with President Estrada upon the lat
ter's invitation regarding the punish
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
UNCLE SAM sues
FOR BALANCE DUE

New Orleans, Sept. 1.-two petit
lions on warehousing bonds to collect
balances due the government on i'm
ports of wine, liquor and raisins were
filed in the United States Circuit
Court Tuesday morning by United
States Attorney Charlton Beattie.
One is against Charles Maurel, now
resident of France. and his surety,
John P. Duvieilh, and the amount in
volved is $3.50, the difference due the
government after the sale of the COM
L1odities which had not been removed
from the government warehouse at
end of three years as required by law.
The other suit is against Charles
Maurel & Co., Ltd and the company's
surety, ]. L. Knoeffler and the amount
due the government on three ship
ments aggregates $52e.45, with legal
interest
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
TO SUE GULFPORT
CITY OFFICIALS
Affidavit Filed BY Constable as Sequel
To Recent Attack by Mayor
On Editor.

Gulfport, Miss, Sept. 14.-As
sequel to the .Foote-Claitor contro-
versy, which recently resulted in the
arrest of Mayor George NJ. Foote for
assault committed upon the person
of Editor Jas. d. Claitor, of the Har-
rison County News, the following af-
fidavit was made late yesterday after
noon by Constable w. H Walston, OF
Harrison county:
Before me, ]. R. Kelly, justice of
,the peace, in and for district No. 2,
county and state aforesaid. w. H..
Walston makes affidavit upon infor-
nation and belief, that on or about
the second day of January 1909, that
the Record Tribune, a corporation,
organized under the laws of the state
of Mississippi, with its domicile in the
city of Gulfport, said state, the object
of which said corporation is and was
to edit, run and control newspaper
plant and outfit, and to do printing
for the public, as well as legal adver-
tisements for the city, county and
state, by it's manager, A. G. Osoniach;
and the Gulfport Journal, a corpora
ton organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi, with its domfcile
in the city of Gulfport said state, the
object of which said corporation is
and was, to edit, run and control a
newspaper plant and outfit, and to dc
printing for the public, as well as
legal advertisements for the city, coun
ty and state by it's manager, L. Wen
ner, did combine, one with the other
to prevent by pooling, either one OF
said corpartions or persons, from
separately or individually bidding, fol
the performance of public work, to
wit: the public printing for the city
of Gulfport a municipality, for the
years of 1909 and 1910, against the
statute, in such cases made and pro
vided, and against the peace and dig
nity of the state of Mississippi.
"W. H. Walston.
Sworn and subscribed before me
this the 18th day of September, 1910
J. R. Kelley, J. p"
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
To Sue Officials.

In addition to this affidavit, suit
will be filed tomorrow in behalf OF
the citizens of Gulfport against the
mayor ard board of aldermen of this
city for every dollar of money that
has been paid by the mayor and board
of aldermen to the Record-Tribune, or
Gulfport Record or Gulfport Journal,
or Messrs. A. g. Osoniach and L.
Wenner. since January 2, 1909, all of
which has been, claims Mr.. e. M.
Barber. attorney for Constable Wal
ston, illegally and unlawfully paid to
these parties or corporations, in viola
ton of the antitrust statute of Mis-
sissippi.
These allegations and resulting
suits have made the very air tingle
with novel sensations here for the
past few days.
Mayor Foote left Tuesday after
noon for a short tip to Monticello
Ga.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
WOMAN CAMPAIGN
MGR. IN DEMAND

Gulfport, Miss, Sept. 14.-Miss Jane
Brunson, who has been manager for
B. p Harrison during his long and
arduous campaign as a candidate for
Congress from this district, which
campaign was brought to a success
full close last Monday, left that night
for Brookhaven where she goes to as
sist in the campaign work of w. A.
Dickson, candidate for Congress
against Shelton. About the time of
the first primary Mr.. Dickson lost his
secretary by death, and it is to assist
in carrying on the work that Miss
Brunson goes to Brookhaven.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
ESTRADA Will BE
RECOGNIZED With
Minimum DELAY
David AreIlano, Whom Zelaya Humil-
lated, To Be Minister at Washing
ton Dawson to Managua.

Washington, Sept. 14.-lt was adj
United yesterday at the State Depart
ment that the Estrada government is
to be recognized Immediately as far
as it is possible at this stage.
1t is pointed out that there are va
rious degrees of recognition, and as
Estradas government, is after all, a
provisional one, our recognition would
be on that basis.
The Estrada representative in
Washington will be Senior David Arel-
lano, who brought upon his head the
wrath of Zelaya by conducting q pub
lie demonstration in Managua in honor
of the accession of Taft to the presi-
dency. He is now on his way to this
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
MAIL CLERK LOSES
Mind; TRIES TO
JUMP INTO RIVER
Guy Pleasant, of Ruston, La, suddenly
Goes Insane on Steamer Cornell,
of New Orleans.

vicksburg, Miss, Sept. 14.-Guy
Pleasant, mail clerk on the steamer
Cornell, lost his mind on the up trip
of the boat from Natchez, and made
several attempts to jump overheard.
He believed he had killed a member
of the crew and was being pursued.
On arrival here Postmaster Mulvi-
hill had the man placed in Jail and
wired H. M. Robinson, of New Orleans,
superintendent of the mail service, for
a successor. Pleasant came from Rus
ton, La.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14

to read us out of the Republican par
ty. Why? Because we fought for
the interests of our constituents, and
refused to bow to the special inter
ests."
In concluding, Mr.. Bristow said:
81 believe the Republican party is
the greatest political organization in
the world, and that it has accom-
plished the most good for mankind,
but it must face the living issues now
and face them rightly, or the people
will turn to some other organization.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
Card TO THE PUBLIC

Having sold fhe HattiesDyrg Press
ing Club to Mf.Sc. Hathaway, wish
to thank my many friends ind patrons
for their fay br during the, time 1 have
been in chkrge and to sSlicit a con
tinuance qNbis liberal patronage for
the new owner and manager, Mr.
HattawY will give careful attention
to all business entrusted to him.
Respectfully,
OSCAR BENNETT.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14

Mr.. ]. G. Hathaway has purchased
the Hattiesburg Pressing Club of Os-
car A. Bennett and has taken charge.
Mr.. Hathaway has some advanced
ideas on the conduct of a pressing
club, and is preparing to give his pa
irons of his new establishment just
about the best service they have ever
had in this line. He has a card in
this issue of The News announcing the
change, and also announcing some spe-
cial inducements in the way of family
tickets.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
ASKED TO ARBITRATE
Interesting MATTER

Jackson, Miss, Sept. 14-President
John A. Webb of the Mississippi Rail-
road Commission has been called upon
to arbitrate rather a unique dispute
between the Gulf & Ship Island rail-
road and one Of its patrons, and he
probably will refer the matter to the
commission for final adjustment.
Some time ago the Gulf & Ship ISL
and advertised round trip tickets
from Mendenhall to st. Louis for $12,
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
W NJ AND
BROTHER SENATOR'S
fLAYED BY BRIST0W
Says Attorney General Voted For
Parker And Yet Had Presumption
To Read Insurgents Out.

Grand Junction, Colo Sept. 14.-In
a speech advocating the nomination
of Merle d. Vincent for governor of
Colorado on the Republican ticket,
Senator Jos. L. Brisqow. of Kansas,
arraigned Senator Nelson w. Aldrich,
of Rhode Island, and Senator Simon
Guggenheim, of Colorado, for their
stand on the tariff bill and attacked
Senators GuggenheiYl and Hughes for
their failure to SUPPORT the long and
short-haul clause of the railroad bill.
Speaking of the position of Hughes
and Guggenheim cbn the long and
short-haul clause f,f the railroad bill,
Senator Bristow said:
when we determined to put the
long and short-hasul clause in the rail
n'A'ensi bill, we weire threatened by At
discoverehey General iwickersham with the
ton OF 70 of the biIli am informed that
teach in ld1e-nt votoe for Roosevelt but for
other cotrker; yet he had the presumption
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1910-09-14
one Telephone SYSTEM IS
BEST, SAYS PRESIDENT

Promoters of the independent teIe-
phone systems were given quitf >
shock last month by the publylsd
statement of Charles 8. Nortons bres.-
dent Of the Indiana Independent Tele-
phone Association that sinab tefe-
phone system is best. Mr.. Norton
mas come to the realization that good
service and competition do not &c to-
eether. His statement is official and
was published in an issue of the bulle-
tin Of the Indiana association of which
he is editor.