The Birmingham age-herald., 1910-12-25


 this instance there was an additional reason for wishing to make the trip. Hieizan, during the whole of the middle ages, was the headquarters of the Budd- hist monosteries At one time its face was covered by 5000 houses, which were occupied by 5000 monks. These rude and turbulent fellows, presuming on their religious vocation, overawed the city, and even repudiated the authority of the Ml- kado himself. Having finally gone the limit of arrogance. they were attacked by the great General Nobanaga in 157s, their quarters burned and themselves scattered in every direction. At a later date, and under rulers who were more favorably inclined, they returned-many of them-to their old home and are there | in considerable force to this dy, though they have never since been quite bold enough to pit themselves in open fight against the civil authorities.
 l One of the most notable public buildings in the city is the Mkado's palace. IL must be remembered that for more than a thousand years the titular rulers of Japan lived at this place, invested with l a, sort of fictitious and unapproachable dignity. as became men who claimed di- rect descent from the gods. but shorn of all real power in the affairs of the nation, while the actual governors, the majors of
 
 | dence and kept their court at Yedo 5000 miles to the east, where also they re- quired the daimios of feudal lords to maintain domestic establishments. That such an arrangement could be effectiveiy enforced for whole millennium, Is one of the marvels of history, and that having been so long enforced it could be com pletely overthrown. as it was In 1888, by the abolition of the Shogurate and the | 41.o the Emperor. to his ancient rights and duties is greate marvel still But am getting away from the line of my mar rative. This Mikado's palace is a great aggregation of buildings, covering alto | gether more than 26 acres, and surround | ed by walls of Cyclopean masonary. Built 1 in the 18th century-originally so-when i Chinese influence was dominent, 1t re- fleets, both in its architecture and its l furnishings, many Chinese peculiarities. Next to 1t in importance Is the Nijo cas- tie, erected in 1901, by the great Shogun | Iyeyasu to serve as a proper stopping place on his occasional visits to the city. Externally 1t is an admirable example of a Japanese fortress, with walls and tow 1 CTS, and within it is "A dream of golden beauty. though much defaced in the years that immediately followed the rev olution. It will always be famous in his tory as the place where in 1868 the present Empefor, then recently reinvested with his ancestral dignities, swore before a solemn council of state to create a delib- erative assembly, and, strangely enough | for an absolute monarch, to govern ac cording to public opinion" Did any man ever take greater obligation?
 l kyoto is the heart of Japanese Budd- | hism and of Shintoism as we'll All the different sects-of which there are more than one can easily remember-are rep | resented here l shall not pretend to have visited the endless temples and shrines with which the city itself and it's suburbs are crowded Some people profess to find that sort of thing pleasant occupation; but not I. Whether 1t be due to his own duiiness ofAsto some other causey I am compelled to admit that 1t, bores me not q little. Three of the most famous "hoy places,' however, I did visit. The first | of these was the San-j -sau- gen-de, or temple of 1888 images of Kwannon, the God of Mercy. It dates originally from ] 1132, but has frequently been destroyed and restored. The grounds are unat- | tractive and ill-kept. Nor is the building 1 itself impressive. Of immense length, 3S9x57 feet it looks like an elongated shed. Of the larger images there are 1000, about five feet high and all of bronze. The 3,93s are reached by counting the lit
 
 and hands of the images themselves are decorated. The interior is as filthy as the exterior is common place. If it has had good cleaning in 100 years nobody could guess 1t from appearances. How 1t Is possible to feel veneratlon for such place passes my poor comprehension. Very different is the Nishi-Hongwanji or headquarters of the western branch of the Hongwaj sect of the Buddhists n 1591, since which time it has been re- paired every 50 years. Rather dingy iii Appearance on the outside. it is splendid llS furnished within The apartments of 1 ne Abbott man of high family con- nections, are really wonderful All that art could do to decorate them-Japanese l art, mean--has been done. For a trihing fee they are open to public inspection l The great hall in which the abbot breaches on the 16th day of each month for Buddhism has become a preaching | religion in Japan-will seat many thou sand people. The grounds are extensive and are surrounded by a strong wall: l for this temple has been in its day for | tress with a heavy contingent of fighting monks, as well as house of worship. Nor far away Is the Hiyashi-Heag gwanji, an offshot in 1892 of the establishment that I have just described. The present tenn pie was completed only as recently as 1885, If nyone supposes that Buddhism is dead in Japan, he should consider that this spacious edifce, the largest heather temple in the world and which cost over $500 900, was made possible only by popu- lar subscriptions. All the surrounding provinces took part in the enterprise. Those who were able gave money, and those who had no money gave personal service. The immense timbers were lifted to their plces by hawsers made en- tirely of human hair, maidens and gray haired women alike yielding up their tresses for the holy purpose. Nothing about it all impressed me so much as the massive pillars, 96 in number each one perfect Keyaki tree. by which the roof Is supported. Chancing to be there at the time of public service, took :, good look at the audience. It was large. and evidently made up chiefly of poor and humble people. Not man or woman did see in foreign dress The officiating priest seated himself on the floor in the chancel, produced a roll, and read for at least 30 minutes, whether an original ser mon or selection from one of the sacred books I could not tell. But he had voice of great strength and sweetness and his audience listened with profound attention, responding at given intervals with great favor. The ritual preceding and accompanying the sermon ws., strangely like that used in Roman Cath ollie churches. St. Francis xaiver noticed 1.-the resemblance 300 years ago, and burned with indignation at what he con ceiyed to be dlapolic imitation of the service of the true church. But the like ness is purely coincidence, Buddhism being some centuries older than Chris