The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1910-05-24
OLD-TIME
Reliable Materials For COMING
Summer Wear
But Under A New Name Have
Returned
Everything CIings And Skirt
Is To Be Wider
NeCkS Of Course Are Left
COlIafIeSS
The Latest Notes In FadS
And Fashions
ley Florence Eairbanksl

New York, May 21-An inspection
of the materials for spring and sum
mer wear shows that certain old-time
reliable materials have returned un
der new names, particularly among
the rough cloths and basket weaves
The feature that commends itself tC
many women is the fact that. the
weave in these materials is so evi
dent that it serves for decoration, and
therefore requires very little other or,
namentation. Simple. braiding de-
signs or buttons are generally suffi
cient for the morning dress, while the
square meshes of those course ia
brics form excellent backgrounds up
on which designs in cross-stitching
done with wooden or linen threads
may be added.
The correct present outline is that il
simple peasant garment, falling ma
turally over the shoulders and with nc
extra width across at this point. The
waist is not pulled in, but it's size is
contributed to in effect, if not in reali.
ty, by the unpadded, ungathered
shoulders and sleeve tops. The clothed
figure preserves more nearly the ma.
tural outlines than it has been allow.
ed to do for many day. it is com
paratively straight up and down, look
ing more peasantlike and primitive
than fashion usually permits.
The girdle belongs at the normal
waistline at present and there is rea
son to believe that that will remain
its place during the summer season
But it is impossible to forecast where
the belt will be placed when autumn
comes. The girdle may be plain, fold
ed, embroidered or clasped with one
of the maryelously wrought metal
buckles of oriental design. The tend
ency of the girdle is to widen or to be
pulled to greater width in front, aft
er the line of the Empire This is
the first faint suggestion of return
to the Empire outline in women's ap
parel, and Poiret, the Partisan mo-
diste, is responsible for it in his con
tinued adherence to the Josephine
garb.
Everything clings, and the skirt
will not widen out below in it's outline
but has rather taken on barrel-like
tendency to widen through the center
and narrow in toward the feet. The
deep hem, varying from nine to eigh
teen inches, does duty here, either
as weight to draw down the skirt
into clinging lines or as band into
which to gather the central fullness
of the gathered skirt.
Necks, it is needless to say, are left
collarless, and the plated Pierrot
frill, though objected to in many cas-
es, comes to us as distinctly new
Partisan note. This collar fullness is
absolutely the only fullness on many
of the late Paris blouses, which are
made in one piece, with merely the
underarm seam to shape them, and
without a vestige of ornament except
a sleeve finish and neck finish il
the event of the abandonment of the
fluted collar.
Bordered foulards and pongees are
sometimes made in double skirt ol
crusader tunic effect, the upper skir
falling below the knees of the one be
meath. But these crusader tunics are
not now as smart as the "dragged-in'
skirt, which is pleated or gathered a
the knee into a weighted fiounce or {
straight band of plain material. A!
for the apron overskirt, which came il
with rush early in the spring, it's day
is already on the wane and only OF
the ready-made and homemade cos
tunes does 1t prevail If the apron
style is worn at all the little knee
length tunic must be heavily weight
ed, for anything that flutters is ex
tremely unmodish at the present time
The latest advices from Paris in
dicate that the size of women's hat
is slowly but steadily increasing ant
there is good reason to believe tina
some extremely large hats will b,
seen during the latter part of the sum
mer. Hat materials are of unusua
beauty and variety this season. Thi