davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
PETTICOAT LORE.

lNLESS the pettlCoat Is correctly cut
fits smoothly and is of the proper
length, the frock put over it will
not hang well. and the girl who wears
1T will not look smart Every fashion,
however eccentric, has its compensanons,
md it may he said in favor of the pres
cnt vogue of narrow skirts that the petit
coats worn beneath them demand a won
Iderfuly small amount of material and
that very little labor need be expended
upon their making.
In lieu of the be-frilled and be-6ounced
ta(lcta petticoat of yestcryear Is an
almost tubc-shnped affair OF messobne'
naring ever SO slightly below the knees
and finished with deep hem or narrow
scant rufFe To make an almost per
fectly fitting petticoat of this sort cut the
material by n hye-gored skirt pattern of
the correct belt size, take up generous
seoms below the knees and turn back
as many inches as possible for the hem
i'm order TO give weight to the garment.
Retter than any of the twilled silks for
Summpr service Hle thH pblii'oibo VI
strped. all white or all black China silk.
made similarly to those of heavier material,
h,t trimmed with embroidered OF accordion
plated narrow ruihes
With all manner OF white wash frocks
are worn unstarched petdcouts of cross
barred muslin. batiste or lawn trimmed
with scont Aounccs OF self material or en-
broidcrel Swiss headed with beading
run with ribbon, bow knotted at the front
For ling, rie gowns there arc special petit
COATS and princess slips Of hand embroid-
ned fine linen bordercd with hemsttch-
ing.
pctticoats of striped seorsuckcr. cham
brav grass linen or merccrized dark colorcd
cot,on ii, rows Of tucks above a two
inch hem and arc intended for use with
naI6Dc capoing and tramping costumes
Nor mountain service fancy iionnels are
n,odo into short scant divided" petit
coots faced with four inch vide talTc,a
ribbon.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
Odds and Ends of Interest for the Girl Who Sews

match the decorations ot her room. Buy
satin ribbon little wider than the strips
Of steel and sew together both edges OF
Two pieces making n cover for both sides
Of the spring Slip the case. over the
spring and when il is In place pull the
thrcads of sewing silk tight so that the
ribbon Will be gathered quito full on the
steel. The sewing. 10y the way. must be
n running stitch, with no back stitches
so that it will pull.
When the covering has been firmly fast
cncd in place and the fulness evenly dis
tributed make q full bow of the same
ribbon or n wider ribbon that matches
it and sew it on the top of the curve. IL
one wants 1t a little more elaborate she
can put another bow at the front a little
above where the slipper touches the
spring; this gives a fluffy and pretty cf-
feet. A shoe shelf holding a row OF
slippers supplied with these decorated
lasts is a most attractive sight.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
Social Amenities for the School Girl

action or giving up the enyied treat for
the mere pleasure Of appreciation from
outsiders
As great mistake as 10 wall over what
cannot be helped is il 10 worry over what
may, and perhaps never will, befall. How
many girls. for example, worry themselves
almost sick about some dance at which
they fear they will not have good timc
In all probability they will have the best
lime OF their life. OF. perhaps, at the last
moment something may occur to prevent
the dance coming of ut all. A large ma
lorlty of matters which are most worried
over IN this world do not amount 10 any
thing when the time comes. and a tremcn-
dous amount of mental strength has been
wasted unnecessarily,
The best cure for worrying about things
that probably will not matter much any
way. and also for broodiDg over what is
past and does not matter at all, is To- live
just as much as possible IN the present
Don't allow the llccHng JOY of the mo
ment TO be dampcned by thoughts Of what
might have been or what may come. The
past is already dend. md there will be
greater happiness in store than any fur
that might have taken place had not some
thing occurred 10 prevent.
Let the future take care of itself Al
low only the happy parts Of the past to
be remembered and look always for
brightness In the present If only what
is pleasant is commented upon this will
be the part that will stand out, whereas
Iif the disagrccnblc rs continually brought
to notice it can quickly overshndow all
else
i CheerfulncSS is Il much To- be cnvicd
lauality. but bright and sunny nature
lis not such without effort. and often con
lsidcrablc effort. The posscssor Of q sunny
disposition always looks OH the bright
side. She says inwardly, What can't b'
cured must DO endured cheerfnlly," and
she SETS herself diligently to look for wbnt
lis funny and will amuse others as well as
. herself
Every one knows the story of Lots wife
because she paused to look back anc
! give a moments regret to all the happi
ness she WAS leaving behind her she wal
turned into pillar of salt, an impcji
ment in the road. The moral in this tai,
liz worth remorking, that whoever stop.
d. Ito regret what Is past and can't be hepec
becomes at once a worse than useless
q member of the community.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20

nishcd in. and thus the college color could
be had without the monotony of the plain
crimson. which of course would be used
for other pillows. For instance, if tho
walls of the room and the furniture coy
crings are largely in brown or tan, th1'
color would look very we'll with the col
lege crimson, as would also gray, dull sage
green aud other neutral tints. 1t wolld
be necessary to avoid any combination
which would suggest another college aud
to select n color TO 60 with the crimson
which would go into the background Of
the room.
This white and red crash has bor'
der OF plain dark mnterial on which
double bands Of narrow braid arc used
to effect a striped design. The centre is
of the light material. with design made
of applied pieces of the darker fabric
There is no embroidery, but so small are
some of the pieces that If made by band
the pillow is not the affair of moment.
A very charming white linen pillow
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
Oriental Bags for Dressing Room

|\VTHEN at boarding school ,s.. girls ARE are
w apt TO acquire the bag habit more
from hasty attempts at neatnesS
than from any real Gondncss for these
attractive receptAclcS, but the habit re-
mains with them usually, and even when
grown TO womanhoo1 the sex finds new
uses for bags and new ideas in the max
iug OF them,
In the outfit one young girl is getting
ready 10 take on her first term at board
ing school this fall is a dressing room set
which will stand many trips to the laun'
dry and will look ms fresh at the end OF
the semester ns when it was laid care
fully aud tenderly in her school trunk
This is a set Of Oriental bags, one large
bag for Iaundry-there arc two of them
just alike so that one can hc washed
while the other is in usc-a smaller one
for soilcd handkerchiefs and one Of a
different shape TO hold the ncckwear that
is 10 be frcshcned for another wearing.
The largest bag is made of four pieces of
Chinese cotton, the design being white
ground with the figure of Chinese woman
in the centre She wears richly colorcd
garments and looks like a Japanese print.
The four lengths of cotton form the two
sides of the bag. two for The front md
two for the back They are fastened
together with heavy white cotton in
fancy stitch, hcrringbone or feather
stitch, and three inch frill Is left at
the top, where n piece of tape is inserted
crosswise to hold a narrow strip of wood
which has holes in the end through which
10 run q pair of white cotton window
loops to hang the bag up by.
An opening Is left in the front section
Of tho bag, between the two pieces Of
cotton cloth and just below the cross
piece of wood, so that there is n place
to slip in Soiled clothing. When the bog
is hung against the dressing room door
or the wall it looks much more attractive
than some OF the lowered ones that are
more common than the novel japanese
print effects.
For the soilcd handkerchief bag two
strips of cotton. two towels they are, arc
Sewed lengthwise together with a fancy
stitch and the ends are hcmned down
over an embroidery hoop which has first
been wrapped with embroidery beading.
nhe top OF the bnG gathers over the hoops. |
and where the round handle cmergeS from
the fulncss n bit Of the embroidery bead \
ne is used 10 tie pretty knot and To
keep the printed cotton from slipping
The sides of the bag arc not scwed up
MI the way. Ii is more convenient to
cave them open for at least three inches.
The necNwear bag is tue simplest OF all.
Ii is. in fact. a miniature laundry bag. 5
me strip Of the cotton towelling u6icing {
or the length and width. The fril al the ,
op is narrower in proportion 10 the length
4 the bag, aud q slim bit Of wood per I
,aps four inches in length Is slipped inro t
he casing made by two rows Of fancy .
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
CHIFFON PARASOLS.

CHIFFON parasols arc much in vogue
Y in Paris this summer Chiffon laiC
over n silk foundation makes the most
sensible chiffon sunshade but often tn,
chiffon is laId 10 two or three thicknesSes
without any heavier foundation An old
parasol that Is marked or faded so as TO
be no longer possible in its present con
Iditon CON often be covered and made to
look as good as new,
White con be covered with any shade
desired, but a color hns generally to have
the same OF somewhat deeper tone laid
over it Combination of artistic contrasts
arc also Seen-mauvc over pale green. for
example. pink and blue. yellow and lilac.
There are iDnumerablc combinations that
are attractive md which make it possible
to carry one sunshade with many different
gowns
There arc many curious effects in the
frames Of the parnsols this summer. Some
have oil the sticks that arc used IN a
japanese sun umbrella. Others. again,
have the sticks turned down Hat at the
edges. giving curious square effect.
Ii is always possible 10 get pretty
parasol for an extremely low price. but
tho handle Is of course perfectly plain.
The average girl uses parasol so seldom
that 1t is really worth while for her to
try to have given her one really expensive
parnsol with a handle SO good that it will
be worth while having the stick recovered
1t will cost just about MS much to have
n frame covered as 1t would 10 buy new
parasoI. but it is infinitely nicer to feel
that the handle is OF some value. If itI
he necessary 10 have parasol for some
one gown of peculiar shade then it IS of
course worth while, but for white OF
some neutral color that cnn be carried
with almost any dress the hanGlo should
be as good us her purse will allow,
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20

y room having plain walls and floor
coverings. pillows with striking geo
metrical designs are peculiarly effective.
Heavy linen. crash, denim, &c. are lnrGe-
ly used for the background Of these pil-
lows, and both plain md figured materials
are employed. according TO the design
that one wishes TO carry out Two mate
rails. one plain and the other 6gurcd. are
used for some of the pillows, and they
are trimmed not only with embroidery In
linen thread hut also with braid and an
applique OF material of n contrasting
shade or n different tone of the same
shade While these striking designs are
good for n room which is otherwise quite
plain they are often quite confusing and
unpleasant In 4 room having n design OF
the walls. unless it be very small design
giving tho effect of n plain wall The PLAIN
pillows should he used in n room with fig
urcd walls or tho pillows should carry out
the same design ms the walls or upholstery.
There nrc exceptions to this rule-iu the
case, for instance. of room having n how-
cred paper. Pillows covered with striped
material of the proper shade often look
particularly well In such n room, and 0ow-
cred pillows look well in n room having
striped paper. The rest of the upholstery
OF the room is then, however. either in the
design of the paper OF nearly like it or in
that Of the pillows and couch cover. or
absolutely plain.
A very good design for heavy linen
pillow was in striped and plain linen,
the border Of the striped linen being quite
wide and mltrcd al the corners. The pill
low was IN violet and white linen and in
tended for room furnished in TWO tones
of violet and in black walnut The centre
of white linen was n square, on which
were set four circles of deep violet linen
These were cut away In the centre, show
ing squares of white. Other smaller circles
of the violet linen were set on between
The large circles. and the whole was
bordercd md separated with narrow
bands of cross stitch. This was on the
inside square. There was no embro II
or trimming of any kind on The striped
border except that each white stripe was
finished with n little violet ornament in
cross stitch The entire pillow was made
bv hand. but ii would look perfectly well
IL carefully made by machine and would
then take very little time as well as,
bcinS most inexpensive.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
IN EW Ones Needed Every Autumn
HSlby the Student Miss and Her Bio
Brother-the College Man

- iris who arc going away tc
school or college or those who
have brothers and cousins just
~ starting upon college career
usually arc interested at this
season of the year In the makinG
of new couch pillows. This is one sort
of h0ndiwork which Will always prove q
welcome gift. for there is constant do
msnd in every household ns we'll as
among the college and boarding school
fraternity for a fresh supply Of new
pillow covers.
For girls who rejoice in the possession
Of an all white boudoir the lingerie pillows
ore still the most desirable, and these are
now made trimmed only with embroidery
or ncedlework and generally without lace
These very dainty pllows are, however,
only possible for certain rooms, aud Ger
tainIy will not bc practical for the hard
wear which must bc looked for in the
school sitting room, and of course the
school boy or college youth would receive
such n gift with shout of dcrision. The
stoutcst of material and the most cudur-
Ing colors are those most suitable for the
average school girls or boys outfit, and IL
n great deal Of work is 10 be put on the
cover il is best To hive them made OF
wash materials for the entire destruction
of n fine piece of hnndwork through the
hard usage which robs il Of its freshness
prcmnturcly is heartbreakinG 10 the per
son who has spent so many hours IN toll
Ing over it, as well as to the person 70
whom it has been given.
Such atrocities are p"rpctratcd III the
way of cmbroidc pillows that it rs
well to go slowly in selecting the ma
tcrials and designs and above all the
colorS. for our taste is more or less
vlliotcd in this direction by the constant
display of frightful combination of colors
to which our eyes become accustomed
One may place no dependence whatever
in Dame Fashion either, because many of
the designs and combinations of color
which become fashionable for cmbroid-
cred pillows are wholly unbcautiful and
will rum all claims 10 harmonious fur
niSbiug which any room may possess
One must take into consideration not only
the single pillow which one is making but
the others with which it is to be used
rs well. and also the general coorlng of
the room or course when class or school
colors are being used there is moro lati-
tude of color combination permissible
than when only the coloriDG is being con-
sidcred for its beauty alone. but even
with these arbitrary colors 10 deal with
one may il one Will take the trouble make
an artistic success of what would other
wise be an uDbearlble tumble of inhar-
monious colors and designs. You viii
lind if you investigate the matter thai
the designing of pillow is not too un-
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
HANDKERCHIEF MAKING.

II ANDKERCHIEF making is fas-
cinatins work. and any girl who
sews neatly may easily provide her
self with supply which VIII he a mat.
Ter of pride to herself and of envy to her
less industrious associates.
French or Irish linen Of the fines;
quality should he used for any handker-
chiefs destined TO carry elaborate en-
oroidcrics, and the greatest care should
he exercised in tho cutting of the squares.
To draw thread in the four directions
rs the only safe way as otherwise the
delicate material is apt TO twist and lie.
come unmanageabe.
When Armenian OF my other very fine
lace cdging is used the handkerchief
need not be hcmstitchcd, although infinite
care must be devoted 10 the hand hcm-
ming, as irregularly set stitches spoil the
entire effect of the work.
Exceedingly narrow hemstitchcd bor.
derS are more than ever popular, and
nearly always handkcrchicfs so treated
have corners embroidered dclicatcly with
wreaths, clusters or scmi-dctachcd but
terfly and dower designs. Sometimes
only one corner is decorated with Il
rather large and elaborate spray pattern,
or q medallion will enclose small initial
Only when there is no other decoration
should monogram be employed
Fancy lace stitches arc blended with
the embroidery patterns as in the case
of the lily pads, which show petals of fine
netting, and the butterflies, with Trans
parent wings Sometimes girl who en-
broders indifferently but scws with eN-
traordlnary ncatness appliqucs lace mo-
tifs upon the corner Of a handkerchief
and then cuts away the material from
the under side, but this Is dlmcult to ac-
compliSh, and a slip of the scissors means
ruin 10 the entire piece Of work
Scallop borders are exceedingly dainty,
but that sort of work takes an immense
amount of time and is so heavy in pro-
portion to the fabric that it Is easily torn
The better way Is to buy machine
scalloped handkerchief Of fine quality and
cmbroider it dainuly, than TO devote
hours of toll to border which may be
reduced TO a ragged fringe the first time
it is Numbered,
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20

(<N O not cry over split milk" is an
pexcellen' little motto 10 bear in
mind While there is still chance
of matter being prevented or helped
then it is worth while struggling over 10
The full extent Of ones power, but when
there is no longer anything further to be
done about it the only sensible part 10
play is 10 accept the situation as grace
,ully as possible
II is the people who are always barking
back-who are always saying. Nov, If
that had not been done all would have
been we'll" or continually musinS re-
marks in that straiu-who are 80 very
unpleasant as compa Mons. There is no
more unpopular being in the world than
be who continually says Il told you so,
and II is the element of II told you SO
in the girl or woman who is forever
mourning over The unalterable which ls
so intensely disngreeablc. Once The deed
has been done it is well To take it cheer
fully; or il that is too much 10 demand
at least say no more of 1t and let the
matter drop from then on
There is no disappointment so gre0l
that in looking back upon it one docs moi
wonder at tho amount of heartburn II
eanscd There may be gricfs which II
will take ;he soothing influence of many
gears To auell but there is no disappoint
mcnt which involves only the pleasure 81
a few hours, or perhaps a few days al
most. which is worth the energy OF be
ing disngreeabc about Life is too short
and while one is still young habits OF IL
temper over slight occurrences are TOT
easily formed for girl TO allow herself
tho luxury Of exhibiting I'll nature on an,
occasion whatever. and no matter wba
the excuse.
But worse even than a temporary out
burst Of temper is IL to accept disap
pointment quietly and apparently well
aud then brood over il, and be dsagrecabl'
because of it for perhaps days 10 come
Inns last is also distrcssiUgly easy habi
To TALL into and will do much to injur
and ruin an otherwise fine character
The Christian martyr" attitude is an
other failing to be carefully gunrde'
against To be fine. perhaps, but no finer
tlian one should be by rights under an.
proyocatioD. but to give II to be under
stood that one is not sufficiently apDre
ciatcd by those at bome-this Is the 1t
titude CT the so called Christian martyr
This person really enjoys Gfng the I'm
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
NEW JABOTS AND VESTS.

lC MALL vests of linen or pioue can
be bought now, which for the jackets
cut open to the waist line are almost
Indispensable
Tho palmer tailor made waists, with
wide ruchc down tho centre, are pretty
with the coats cut in deep V or U shape.
but the lingerie bodices which have not tho
! frill are too fat to be pretty with a wide
open jacket,
The little white vest slips on under the
jacket and has a piece of the material
across the back, which, standing up just
a trille above the coat collar. protects the
collar band of the waist srom soiling
This vest is double breasted, fastening
with pearl or crochet buttons. Small gilt
buttons are often seen, but gilt buttons
must be used with care and discretion, as
they have the power TO make or mar the
effect of nm entire costume.
Jabots of all designs and materials are
more worn than ever. There arc the double
bot md the single Jabot, jabots of
equal width their entire length, and those
which are very wide at the throat, nnr-
rowing into nothing toward the belt
Some jabots are placed at one side Of
The waist, others down the centre Some
arc of finest lawns bordered with lace.
others entirely composed of lace. Net
and sheer lace are often combincd. and
again the jabot is made Of embroidery
cdging If the lace cannot be really good
in quality II should not be used At ALL
plain hemstitched lawn gathered or plated
piece being preferable,
The frill is best when fullest JUS. 81
the top, its length being decided 10y TIA
cut of the jacket with which the bodice
ia worn. With colorcd linen coat
frIl or jabot bordcrcd with the same
shade is always attractive. Vests Of col
ored linen. light or dark blue. pink, green
and tan. are worn frequently with the
all white suits, while for cloth cont
Ihe waistcoat may be of contrasting
tonc. For a white serge costume the
.moll waistcoats of pastel blue MORE are
,bnrmipg. aud give just the necessary
additional warmth
But ut the top OF the vest must foil
he soft jabot. This is the principa'
oucb nt the moment which gives such
smart air to every French gown.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20

stitching. These bags look very pretty
and wear long time.
There are some wonderful bits of old
brocade and striped silk which can bo
bought now at bargain prices and made
into charming little bags for holding rib
bons, bandkcrehiefs, gloves, sc. These
are invaluable to the girl who must liyO
in small quarters and who cannot take
all the time necessary TO keep her be-
longingS laid out In neat rows and piles
in her dresser and chi1fonicr drawers. The
prettiest of these bags are trimmed With
narrow old gilt or silver galloon.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20
SLIPPER LASTS.

THE girl who likes everything about
her belongings dainty and in good
order will probably have several OF
the lilue toe lasts with steel springs for
her slippers. 1t makes a marvellous diff
ference in the shape OF n slipper IL il
is never put away without one Of these
lasts. But, useful ms they are. they are
not in any way pretty in their natural
state, and the girl who keeps her closet
looking dainty and attractive can make
her slipper lasts ornamental TOO.
The way to do it is to coyer the steel
spring with ribbon to match her closet
fittings. which in their turn should
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-20

tistc with the same style of wreath. while
in satin or velvet the wreath would bc
made Of vari-colorcd silks with n little
gold thread or perhaps entirely Of gold.
One of the pillows suitable for college
room is of white and red crash trimmed
with narrow braid. This would be good
pillow in which to develop the Harvard
red. for with the correct crimson could be
used n neutral tint such as the room lor
which the pillow was intended was fur