The La Jara chronicle., 1910-06-17
AMERICAN FASHIONS SEEN
BY MARTHA WASHINGTON.

foulard, mohair, taffeta, habitau, linen
and drap de ficelle. Serges are made
in smart tailored effects with braid
binding and with the coat a little
shorter than it was earlier in the sea
son. Braid forms an effective trim
ming, edging the bottom of the coat.
the sleeve and the pocket
Some suits have two or three pock
cts and others have patch pockets with
out ornamentation set on both sides
of the coat at the hip line.
There are a number of new features
as to collars. among which may. be
mentioned the notched collar with
long rever fastened with two or three
buttons. or the short rever with five
buttons. Long flat collars are also
noted, these having what is termed
sash tie in colored silk. the collar
itself being fashioned of Persian 81 k.
Some such suits show slight de
Walton as to cut. That is, instead
of being perfectly straight at the
back the side cores are shaped in
slightly, while there is peculiar cut
from under the bust line that gives
slight cutaway expression in front
Another smart cut is the one-button
cutaway, shaped from the sides to the
back almost like a fan. This coat
has a tiSht-fitting sleeve with a small
open cuff ornamented with small but
tons to correspond with the large
button used for fastening. The collar
is notched and the skirt is narrow.
the almost invisible pleats giving but
slight fullness to the bottom. Many
of the new skirts. by the way, are
made in the one-piece circular effect.
buttoning or fastening to one side.
Others are made in the five-gored
effect. the cores being rather narrow,
while on the bottom is deep flange
of the material open at both sides
of the front. thus giving a fuller ex-
preston to the skirt. Pleated skirts
are shown with the panel back and
front and with an inverted p'ait left
in on one side.
All over embroidery suits of linen
season. These have skirts with panel
fronts in the embroidered effect. The
plain tailored suit is shown without
any oruamentation whatever, its sim
plicity of cut and excellent finish
making it exceedingly smart. Some
of the new tailor-made suits have
many touches to suggest the fail
styles. These in materials suitable
for present wear are in great demand.
Separate skirts have taken a new
lease on life in various smart materi
ais such as novelties, serges. worsteds,
panamas, voiles, mohair and taffetas.
Linen and pique are popular for
summer skirts and models of such
are made in various pleated styles
as well as in the circular gored effe
with panel back.
The tunic skirt with the plated
intersection is likewise making a
bid for favor. Buttons are used for
trimming a skirt developed on these
lines. But the plated effect is more
popular in the separate skirt than in
gored styles. though it is undoubted-
ly matter of taste. Some figures
look better in a gored skirt than in
a pleated model Pleats are set in
a panel back and front, or introduced
below the knees or put on in clusters.
Blue the Leading Color.
Blue is and will Likely remain the
leading color of the season, but it is
shown in such an infinite variety
of shades that. were we forced into
wearing nothing but blue. it might
be done without creating a tiresome
sameness.
One of the brightest colors that
has lately come prominently to the
fore is an excessively vivid shade of
deep blue.
Some of the tailor-made garments
just mentioned are of this color which
alone would suffice to render them
conspicuous objects, wherever they
might be met. Others are in dark
shades of blue, or else dark navy,
which is also the predominating color
for serges, especially of the finer
sort of which the smartest braided
suits are made.
1t is not over stating the case to
say that at least third of the foul
ards on sale have navy blue and other
dark blue ground. Among those with
white ground fair proportion are
printed in some shades of blue, light
or dark. In the selections made by
rho Headline frascmating firms these