The Brinkley argus., 1910-09-02

or the MeXlCan NdllOHdi Idli'
 road, is in the state of Michoa-
 can, a few hours ride from Patzcuaro.
 The, scenery along the line is beau tiful, while the engineering skill dis played is as fine as any in the re- public It was to me thrilling ride and was half glad, half sorry when It ended. We found the station filled with Indians who came down every day to see the train arrive. It is a marvellous sight to them, especially the engine.
 The next thing to cause smile was the conveyance to take us to town. Originally a fiat car, it now had can vas top for shelter and two long wood en benches for seats. Sturdy looking mules stood harnessed to this affair, as impatient to start as their driver. It was hard climb for them and not very comfortable for the passengers. Much of this was forgotten, however, in the novelty of our surroundings Every thing interested us; the low
 
 the many coffee plantations, the pretty side lanes (they cannot be called streets), where we caught glimpses of quaintly roofed bridges spanning the river recent shower had made the air delightful, while the foliage and flowers sparkled with rain drops.
 Finally. the driver drew up, with grand flourish. in front of the hotel.
 As soon as the room question was settled, we started out to get another glimpse, before dark, of this fas- cinating town. As we turned the cor her, less than block away, we came upon a novel sight Directly facing us was the market plaza; here the vendors as well as the people in the portales were making ready for Urua- pans evening meal. As six o'clock drew near the poorer class came pouring into the plaza from all direc tions. The curbstones were soon filled with happy family groups, eating and chatting with all their might. Those minus a seat stood in front of the stands, the lights showing their dazzling white teeth and bright, dark eyes. In addition to the stands for fruit, vegetables, frijoles, chilli con carne. enchiladas, tortillas and many other dishes, We noticed that one of the portales was entirely filled with coffee stands
 These stands had table cloths and T ..t- l~I. coffee was in great rrns. kept hot by curious little charcoal stoves; with the coffee they served various kinds Of bread, mostly sweet Here the GUS toners have benches or chairs to sit on and altogether, put on considerable style. It was great fun watching them. in fact, the entire scene was of never-failing interest, especially on market day, Sunday. Then, not only the town people are there, but crowds of Indians and Mexicans from the country. Many of them come a long distance. walking all night in order to get there early in the morning Sun day night the scene is bewildering; there is scarcely an inch of space in he portales, along the curb stones, on the street or in the plaza, that is not filled with happy humanity; men, women and children, eating, drinking, laughing, talking, selling No quar- reIing, no crying children, everybody well behaved and orderly. The scene is certainly unique. one remarkable feature being that there is no drunk enness. They seem to indulge in cof fee more than anything else.
 Uruapan coffee, by the way, is the quintessence of coffee, and is servel here in peculiar way. They have it on the table in glass syrup jug (such as are used in the states') and serve it cold with hot milk. With the milk the waiter brings you bowl and teaspoon (you may have cup and saucer, if you wish, but it is better to mix in a bcWD. Two tablespoons Of coffee to a pint of boiling milk is about the right proportion, at least that made the coffee delicious to my taste.
 In the portals of the barracks. sj;- ting on benches probably a hundred years old. are men making fine ralm- leaf hats With an ordinary pin they