Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-06
Preparing Sauces.

Comparatively few cooks-good ones
too-excel in sauce making. Yet there is
no part of the cookery more important
especially if one is of an economical turn
with fondness for using up ends OF
cold meat fowl or fish.
The French are the best sauce makers
and their sauces always have distinct
i've flavor, secured by varied seasonings
little used by the average American cook
Chives, chevril, garlic, Parmesan cheese
onions. bay leaf. peppers, dried herbs
catsup, tabasco, tarragon vinegar, spices
mushrooms. paprika, bottled sauces, all
play their part.
The chief difficulty with the novice is
OVERRIDING. An overpowering taste OF
garlic, a dash too much of tabasco, too
free hand with herbs, and a sauce is
ruined. Everything must be SO blended
ats to make it impossible to detect just
what f1avoring is used.
The best sauce makers do not measure.
They experiment, using pinches of this or
that. according to taste. This is perilous
for the beginner. who should get a good
recipe and stick to it, Any cookbook
gives rules classified for pudding, meat,
fish or vegetable sauces.
The first is usually sweet or favored
with wine; the others generally have as
a foundation a cream sauce or drawn
butter.
1t is in making these last that so many
cooks slip UP. For cream sauce heat the
milk separately, putting the seasoning
into it, The thickening of butter and
flour may be rubbed together until
creamy. then add a little hot milk until
it pours easily into the boiling milk. Stir
until thickened. In this way lumpiness
is avoided.
If a sahce is not smooth when finished
run it through fine sieve. Some cooks
get better results by heating the butter
then adding the flour. lastly the milk
Sauces are less apt to be lumpy if taken
from the fire while thichening is being
added.
Drawn butter must be carefully made
Heat two-thrds of the butter in a skill
let add the -four and stir until 1t bubbles
but does not brown. Water is then grad
TALLY stirred in until the sauce boils. Sea
son we'll. Remove from stove. stir in RESI-
of butter, which has been cut into small
pieces. If necessary, strain and serve i'm
mediately.
AS it is important to keep sauces no,
but not boiling until the ingredients with
which they are to be mixed are ready
there should be a small double boiler KEEP
especially for sauce making. This pre-
vents burning and keeps the mixture
moist long time.
The adding Of a stock to both brown
and white sauces makes them much rich
er. Bits of meat left from steaks anC
roasts, bones of poultry and meat SHOULD
be added to the stock pot. This doe.
nicely for the sauce if not for a rich soup
Brown sauces have for foundation
brown stock and Drowned butter an
-four If not dark enough. it can be col
Ored with caramel or rOuX. The careful
cook keeps on hand bottled caramel
is made by cooking quarter of pound
of graduated sugar in d saucepan unit
q dark brown. stirring constantly; add
pint of cold water, draw to one side an(
let it simmer for quarter of an hour
strain and bottle. A few drops are added
to soups and sauces.
RouX is nothing but the hiCkening o.
sauce. 1t is made of brown and white
For the former. melt butter slowly, ado
flour, stir constantly until brown. Cool
| few minutes. then stir in the stock. Re
| turn to the fire and stir until 1T bOils.
| For fish. mayOnnaise and Hollandais'
sauces are often the bases with various
i ingredients. AS sardines, capers. ancho
| vies or shrimpS, added. Both white an,
| brown sauces are changed by adding to
| matoeS. olives, cheese. port wine. sherry
| lemon, oranges, horseradsh, mint, o
any desired flavor.
| \ little understood sauce is maitr
| d'hotel butter. 1t is made from one ia
| blespoonful each of butter chopped pars
! ley and lemon juice. with one-half tea
| full of pepper. Rub butter to a cream
add lemon juice. parsley. salt and pep
| per, stirring until smooth. Spread owe
| top of boiled fish or bt fSteak.
y sauce made of melted butter. parsle,
and lemon improves poached eggs.