New-York tribune., 1910-01-23
MRS.BARNEY'SWORK
Social Leader Hits on Nesc and
Paying Industry.

At no. 30 Irving Place, New York there
is just now an exhibition which ought TO
delight those who have rich and curious
colorings-an exhibition of scarfs. draperies
etc. dyed AT Neighborhood House. in
Washington. The collection has history.
too. showing how this social settlement hit
upon a new and paying industry, and al
most by chance.
One of the women most interested in
Neighborhood House is Mrs Albert Cliff
ford Barney, who lives in Sheridan Circle.
in Washington. and from time to time Mrs
Barney has arranged plays for the benefit
Of the settlement-plays in which she in
duces the socially elect of Washington TO
act, and which the socially elect turn out
in force to see, at grand opera prices. The
latest Of these performances was a panto-
mime. The Man in the Moon" and when
II was given-it was at the Belasco, the
Monday before Christmas-every one was
enthusiastic about the costumes. The cos
tunes had been designed. dyed and fash
toned az Neishborhood House. and the
wonderful colorngs inspired all who saw
them with desire TO possess something
dyed at the same place.
For a good while. more or less dyeing
had been done at Neighborhood House At
first it was only rafia for the basketry,
which has been one OF the settlements
specialties. Then one thing after another
was dipped into the watts, and before long
experimental dyeing." as MI and Mrs.
Neigh, the managers of the settlement.
call il. had become one of the chief inter
ests there.
Dyeing the costumes for The Man in the
Moon" was a difficult undertaking. be-
cause artificial light changes colors so. Mr.
Neigh decided 10 do the work at night, and
in this way succeeded in turning out pretty
nearly what he and Mrs. Barney wanted.
Some OF the colors were ahideous by day
but, under the calcium, just what was
needed. Probably few In the audience
could have believed. had they been told
that most of the material in the costumes
was cheesecloth; but il was. One chorus
was clad. apparently. in leather, worn and
scanned nothing, in reality. but dyed
cheesecloth. Troops Of children danced on
the stage dressed 10 represent autumn
leaves in cheesecloth costumes, dyed in red
and yellow splsshes, no two alike. But
the most artistic piece was the gown worn
by Mrs. Barney in her April" dance
rainbow draperies, showing all the tints OF
the spectrum as the wearer danced.
Ance then the play scarfs and other things
dyed at Neighborhood House have been in
afsat demand. The settlement has turned
ont some most unusual iridescent silks,
tot, for evening gowns. Some are extremely
beautiful; others merely bizarre.
1T all depends on the mordant." Mr.. Ne
ligh says. 1.-The mordant, you see, is the
chemical which at once fixes and changes
the color. The effect Of given mordant
varies according to its strength and other
conditions, and / never know Just what color
my pupils and i going 10 tern out. II
is eInphaticslly experimental dyeing"
Asr. Neigh has a wonderful pale blue
scarf with white wayy lines on il, and some
dull pink starlike forms which in certain
lights are scarcely visible. He says-and
he is truthful man-that the scarf has
not made the acquaintance Of anything ap-
preaching pink dye IT was white; it has
been dyed biue-the pink is merely the
Inordant-that is. II is the chemical action
OF certain mordsnt on the blue dye, turn
ing II actually pink In places under certain
lights. and giving curious violet simmer
TO the folds.
IL is no wonder that these scarfs, curl
ogsiy and artIstically dyeo, are becoming
fsd in washington among those who can
AFFORD them. Mrs. Taft has ones sand many
~ Mrs Barney's friends acquiring
them, for 2 consideration of from s. or IS
~ 70 $50. some are ordering gowns others
sre frVolibs the aid ~ Heehborhood
gcuse in the matter OF dra aperies to carry