, 1910-04-13

terrorism, but where to-day there is protec-
ton and justice and progressive prosperity
under the British and Egyptlau flags. Even
for the enjoyment OF the journey itself it is
worth dong, apart from the obligation
which every Briton ought to feel-to see as
much as his opportunities permit Of the En-
pire and the methods by winch it is kept
together ana the work 1t does. From AS
suan to Halfa is only three days by touritt
steamer (the mail-boat8 do it il thirty eight
hOursG and the Nile scenery through Nubia
is far finer and more varied than below As-
suan. The Dam has raised the river level
Tor over a hundred miles. For a long way
above Philte the water laps against rocky
cliffs, and one seems TO be s;6amiug across 4
Wlde-spreGdin9 lake.
Tue most splendid ruins OF Nubia's an
cient Temples stand quite near the river.
Most Impressive Of oil Is Abe Slnbel, a vast
sanctuary bewn out Of the solid rock and
guarded by colossal figures which have
greeted the sunrise with their enignntic
smiles morning after morning for thirty-fve
centuries past. The Nubian sunsets are ex-
quisite, The after-glow Of gold lasts until
dal kness falls, and then across the water lie
the silvery rays Of q mo n bright beyond
belief to jewellers under gloo'nier skies
Tho Railway Station at Haifa.
Halfa presents itself rs o line Of white
blue, and pink buildings, shaded on the high
bank by r~ustling labbakh trees. Over to the
right - a tlnglc Of mast and rigging, where
the feIluccas are d~ischarging tins of stand
ard oil and loading with sacks Of gram. Be
hind are two or three streets Of shops, md
then the burning desert, across which CONES
a camel caravan s~norting at the white train
in the trim little railway station. An up to
date train with sleeping and lining cars, with
electric fans whirllng GOODNESS in every
compartment, and dnrkened glass windows
to keep off the glare. There are outside shut
ters too, to darken the carriages, and inside
shutters as well for protection against the
dust. But this afternoon there is no dust,
Straight on to the desert we 60, leaving the
line of green which marks the river on our
right, and soon seeing nothing but a SHIN
moriug, sandy plain, stretching away TO far
off ranges Of low violet hills
Now the sun sets, and a delicious GOODNESS
fans our parchod bodies The desert bo-
comes . loIicato rose colour, until suddenly
il Is night, and the lighted train is reflected
on it's dark ~surf1ce. The iesolation grows
l|utenser. No cheerful twinkliug windows
greet the evening, telling Of Homes and
pleasant meals and rest after the labOrs Of
the day. Yet there's a fa7oinafIou even about
this phase Of the journey Leaning %out,one
secs d perfect dark senicIrcie Of absolutely
straight horzon. We seem to be runbling
nIong in the centre Of a great round platter
of blackness. 1t is like a dream.
Back to the River.
Tossing wakefulIy on my hard bed (the
only blot upon this excellent train, / wake to
the stars, but | am glad still to see the dawn.
We have got back to the river now. There
are green fields and palms and villages, where
naked black children cry unintelligible
things at us aud their almost naked elders
tend tiocks Of lean goats. At eight O'Clock we
run into Atbara, and here d motley crowd in
dressing gowns, pyianas, overcoats, anything
or nothing almost, leap from the train and
scprry across to the baths erected here fo1
the refreshment of passengers "a brilliant
idea, which I commend to the notice Of the
Canadian Pacific and all other long distance
lines. Fresh and CHEEKY, although a dust
storm like d London fog is blotting out the
landscape, and even the close-at-band build
lngs, we get back into the dining-car to con
sumo eggs and bacon and marmalade All
day we have scrub on either hand, sweet
scented mimo8a for the III st part, Hundreds
~ y,1las ~ viaa lopT 0ulv yuartinlr vy,4or ouJ