davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

for the black suit in cloth or velvet. Since then 1t has been growing in popu- larity. For a blonde, black and gold form the most dangerously fascinating combination. For restaurant gown a mantle of black net, lined with old-gold and edged with sable, covers soft, lightweight black velvet gown, the bodice of which is of silk and lace, half concealing the glint of gold that is made into tiny roses nestling beneath the lace. The hat is one of the new variety of Haunting black lace, trimmed with. a single large black rose of silk and vel vet, with gold center, thus completing this wicked-looking costume, the dark ling shadows of which would delight the eye of an artist.
 simple, silvery beauty, straight through the gamut to deep, brilliant Royal blue yelled in black, make up some most fetching frooks for afternoon and restaurant wear.
 Greens in every conceivable shade and combination of tone are much III evil dence for those who care for color.
 Costumes of All White
 The costume of all white was one of the surprises of midwinter.s . It was taken up rather hesitatingly at first, but now 1t is accepted as one of the chic things of the year.
 Such gowns are spoken of as white, but in reality they are cream for after noon wear. It Is only for evening toil- cites that pure white is used.
 As for trimmings, the smartest street clothes are severely plain, without superhuous button or stitching. Draped models have landings, frogs and braid ings. For buttons, cut steel and jet are the favorites.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

mixing to tint" is unnecessary. The manufacturers of the prepared tints sell, for the convenience of their patrons, cut stencils, to be used in applying the contrasting design, but the girl who can produce her own stencils Is absolutely independent, besides being able to give complete originality to her work.
 The principal thing to bear in mind in drawing the design is to adapt the motif to the article to be decorated. The first stenciled article illustrated is a table-runner, the ends of which are decorated with conventionalized spray of thistles. The material is Russian crash, that may be bought in the towel ing department of any of the large stores; the soft, neutral gray color en- dears it to the artistic eye, and the fact of its low price is rarely counted against 1t. The design is planned to have breadth rather than height, in or
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06
AndSonbre
 Tones
ALL BLACK IS
 VERY CHIC
Street Suits of Cream Color. New Shade of Blue Imported
 from Paris. Hair Caps.

side breadth. The coat also brings ox a new feature, being cut shorter in tbs front than in the back Buttons of black jet and black velvet collar ern- broidered in floss of the same shade as the dress make snappy combination. The huge side pockets add to the length of the line of this costume.
 Classic Dinner Gown
 The dinner gown affords an excellent example of the combination of classic simplicity with modern snartness. The underdress IS of ivory tulle embroidered in gold; the tnnic being of sinuors satin, slightly darker in shade than the tulle and fringcd in dul1-gold bullion, through the top of which is run a wide crushed ribbon of changeable radium silk, closely harmomzing the different sheens of the gown. A black velvet ribbon twisted through the embroidery of the sleeve gives a finishing touch that stamps it as Parisian creation.
 Handsome Black Costume
 Since the black gown is decidedly fhe most smart thing of the season. the dk- butante may at last satisfy her longing for costume of black velvet vithouf fear of the accusation of having bor- rowed from her grandmother's ward robe. The skirt is of the circulzr-1ored type, with a wide hem at the bottom. The drapery falls over the left hip and disappears in the center folds of the back of the skirt at the right side, being caught just above the knee with a jet buckle. The girdle is of the soft folds of the velvet cut on the bias and seem ing to be part of the waist. The sleeves are moderately large and loose at the top and laid in soft folds below the elbow, where the dead 1uster is relieved by six tiny jet buttons, and very fine transparent ruf1es of soft cream yoke being of drawnwork to simulate tiny cobwebs and of the same material as the rufies of the sleeve and ehou-
 Curled Caps from Paris
 Hair caps for all occasions are the very latest aids to beauty and comfort that the ingenious Frenchwoman has in- vented. The lining is a sort of hair webbing, into which little curls are woven, sometimes as many as twenty of these to a cap, but others have only eight They are kept in box that fs highly scented, so that, as the head moves, the curls give off pleasanf odor.
 The woman who pses them does be- own hair up on top of her head m a tight knot. Around her hat Is sewed pretty coil of hair, 90 that when she puts on her hat she is ready for the street, and need not wear all the hair she owns in cumbersome cofdure. Then, when she arrives home, ahA takes off her hat and the cap il . real boon. She just pins the cap on top of her head with four amber pins. shaped HIo buckles, to hold 1t in place. At the bsck is wide satin bow of blue, of scnne other color, which serves to prop up ths edi6ce and impart dressy look There are caps for breakfast, czpsfu< luncheon, caps for afternoon wear on at home days, caps for the evening In fbs latter the curls are stortef and fhere are more of them.
 Undoubtedly all these caps s3a e<1ou- derful convenience, saving infinite tim9 and trouble. Needless to say, She1 ard becoming widely popular.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06
DYES ARE MOST
 PRACTICAL MEDIUM TO USE
Will Not Wash Out, Are Easy to Prepare, and Color
 Will Be Uniform

sign must be pressed, to set d1e co1osxv this is most satisfactorily and per- manently done by steaming. Have 2 strip or square of clean white muslin or woolen goods, preferably the latter, wet it and wiring it out as dry as possible 1; lay the stenciled work right side up on an ironing blanket that is covered by a clean cloth, and lay over 1t the damp cloth, and over this dry cloth. Press with hot iron, and the steam will set the color so the article may be laund- cred, as previously described, without fear of the dyes washing out.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06
Beautiful
 1 lines
NEW MODELS
 HARD TO MAKE
No Easy Task for Home Dress maker to Get Artistic Lines
 in Latest Draperies

" ABLY spring modes this year may, in general, be divided into
 two classes. There is the bi-
 zarre gown, eccentric almost to the point of actual freakishness-in fact, more than one model shown IS thoroughly freakish. In the other class are toilettes of elegant simplicity, of an English severity, the chief beauty of which is their exquisite gracefulness of line
 The latter afford formidable prob lem for the home-dressmaker. Unless she understands the artistic relative value of line and the dangerous com plexity of the task of draping thing to appear simple, she had better adhere to very plain models, of which excel lently fitting patterns can be obtained. No pattern can give any assistance in draping, as the goods have to fall spontaneously without being tackled to the lining
 Freakish Specimens
 As examples of the ultra-bizarre, couple of costumes saw on Broadway recently may serve as awful warnings of the extremes to which some design CTS have gone. One was costume of loose-woven material, the skirt being belted in about the ankles by broad band, finished on either side of the front with metal buttons. This belting seemed to make walking four de force and sitting down gy1nnastic feat. The other was a gown of crepe de Chine. The hapless wearer's legs were bound in sash draperies wound round and round the skirt, being a continuation of the shoulder and waist draperies of the corsage.
 The gowns, however, that women of good taste are wearing reflect 1n their way the return to the classics that IS shown in our art It would seem, as if the revolution that has taken place in the dance, or rather the reversion to Greek models, was having an entirely salutary effect on our clothes. The really pretty costumes have all the beau- ty of line and the loose draperies of ancient Greece but-the classic belle of Athens has come halfway to meet our modern, smartly-dressed women. The result is that Greek lines and draperies have been adapted cleverly, appropriately and most decoratively to fn de stscle ways and notwithstanding needs. Be- tween them the Greek beauty and the Parisian belle have evolved the most charming, simple and becoming gowns we have had for century, and this loose fitting comfort is no small item in their favor. Withal, they do not lose . whit of the latter-day smartness neces- sary for formal conventional occasions.
 The New Color
 For street wear, corduroys, woolens, silks, cottons and linens will be the textures employed, and even some fig ured velyets for spring toilets. Mate rials will be, for the most part, loose and rough, with tendency to large mesh.
 As for colors, the very latest thing from Paris is blue that is almost black, the better qualities having luster of blue steel. The French call 1t raven blue ('bleu corbeau"). It is frequently combined with black satin to bring out the blue in its texture.
 Besides this new shade, the very smartest thing is all white or all black. Early in the fall Paris set this vogue
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

knowledge of drawing, and good taste in the selection of colors is necessary III carrying 1t out There is practically an unlimited field for its utilization; hand some portieres, sofa pillows, screens, table covers and curtains can be made at a cost that is governed entirely by the foundation material, and as some of the most effective have been made of bur lap, denim, unbleached muslin and fine cheesecloth, 1t becomes apparent that the cost may be kept very low. The stem cling may be equally well done, how ever, on velour, silk, chiffon or other high-priced material.
 The principal difficulty that confronts the amateur worker is in procuring the stencils. Until some clever person, with a genius for experimenting, tried sten- cling on cloth, the only use of orna- mental stencils was by painters, to stem cil frieze or panel on painted or cal cimined wall or ceiling This decoration has so grown in favor that, oddly, 1t has reduced the demand for the ready-cut stencils, carried by the paint supply shops; each decorator wants to use only original designs, that are exclusively his own. Tinted walls, rather than paper cd, are preferred by many housekeep-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06
THE HEIGHTS OF EVERYWHERE

THE HEIGHTS OF EVERXW6ERG
 By GERTRUDE B. HAMILTON. Could I sing song, out to the world, To bring tears to the hearts of men; Could make merry laughing tale Flow, rippling from my pen; I would sing, 1 would write, and send
 my heart,
 As brook to the river runs, Not where the plenty of love abides: I would sing to the lonely ones. I would sing to lives that know not the
 smile
 Of eyes that understand; I would write to hearts that weep the
 while,
 For the help of comrade hand. Out to the heights of everywhere, Had 1 song at command, ..ga..sS I would send my laughter, smiles and i. tears, ATo the dwellers of Lonely Land.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

motifs at the side of the portiere, the top of each almost meeting the lower edge of the one above it. Along the bottom the motifs are placed side by side. The stenciling should be begun at the lower corner.
 After the color is all laid in and the work is practically completed. the de
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

some of the most fashionable models
 being made on yoke, with trailing
 hems. The one illustrated is of black
 broadcloth, trimmed with braid The
 coat is slightly bloused all around over the c1ose-ftting belt. The belts are
 greatly elaborated upon, being richly embroidered and ornamented with large mother-of-pearl buttons, which are also used in trimming the coats. With them
 are worn blouses the color of the suit,
 usually of diaphanous material or. the
 new striped crepe Long stoles of shirred black net or velvet and lined with fur are worn with these suits. They may reach to either the hem of the dress or the hem of the coat, and
 are worn alone or with the new velvet muffsa
 An Ornate Gown
 While severe and simple costumes will
 be in the majority this year, there is always a certain number of women who cannot wear the plain, mannish tailor | made. In fact, their physique and 1 features demand something more orna- mented. For such women the model tc | the left of the Russian blouse is adapted its excellent lines being relieved with g shawl collar of velvet and Oriental em- broidery and embellished with stitching: I which are here brought out in detail The material is of pony skin chestnut | pongee, collar and cuffs of black velvet 1 the buttons of Oriental enamel match.
 ing the embroidery which is of a deepe, | shade of brown
 l The third suit for street wear, showr l in the picture underneath, is heavily twilled mustard-colored serge. The | skirt depicts one of the newest idea: in a plaited hounce that is gradu- l ated from the front panel across the
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06
ARTISTIC CURTAINS MADE
 CHEAPLY BY STENCILING
Bap Denim and Cheesec1oh be turned into Handsome
 Interior Decorations at Small Cost

CTS, both for hygienic reasons and be- cause of the individual treatment that may be given them. Wall tinting, while usually done by men, is quite within the ability of the woman of average strength, and with the ready-prepared co1ors. the old-fashioned, discouraging
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

chosen for their clearly defined types, as most of the seasons costumes are either simplifed or elaborated from these fundamental lines.
 The Russian blouse, in innumerable styles, is the most popular for street and general wear One of these IS shown in the center picture. The coats are made either hip or knee length, hip length being the favorite, the skirts in
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

Skunk, fox and fisher" furs are used now even as borders for diaphanous materials in evening gowns, as well as for garments of cloth and velvet. One street costume of cream broadcloth L saw was made in Russian effect, the high neck, shield front and the edge of the three-quarter length being 5ordered with skunk.
 There is decided tendency to take
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

up the idea introduced without much success in the winter of cutting sleeves in one with the garment, thus obviating the seam on the shoulder and around the arm. At first 1t was confined to evening wraps, but now this novelty is employed in toilettes for street wear.
 The Russian Blouse
 The gowns in the illustrations are
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06

Sash Curtains with Conventionalized Violet
 Design
 with which everyone is familiar, and that need only to be dissolved in little hot water to make them ready for use. By dissolving certain amount at one time and bottling 1t for future use, one may be sure of having always the same color; another advantage is that two or more colors may be mixed, after being dissolved, in the proportions to give a desired shade, and this may be bottled,
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-06-06
\ LTHOUGH
 A stenciling is N by no means

of ornamentation, its application to fabrics
 presents more or less of novelty, and gives 1t a position of i'm portance in decorative art. While the actual work is mechanical, the preparation of the desionc reot1ires a
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-09-16
TO ABOLISH DEATH PENALTY
Spanish Minister Announces
plans-Clerical Activity.

Madrid Sent. En- rcoperin% the courts
TO-DAY Ruiz Ealarino the Minister OF Jus
ffcn. announced the early abolition of the
death PENALTY and said that numerous mod
jiiretiole would be adopted for the purpose
O. simplifying tho civil and military codes
Mouei-nor Ni"o. the Fapal Nuncio at
Madrid has returned from ZaraUs after
months stay Al tho summer resort and
with his rcappeaTsncc in the capital the
organization Of tho clerical campaign
against Premier Canalelas is proceeding
with renewed activity.
G~eat prepare lions under the direction Of
tho priests arc being made for = series Of
manifestations and meetings of protest to
be hold throughout the country on October
o the daE before tho Cortes reassembles
Particular care wil he taken that the
meeting assume > patriotic and peaceful
character Hostility toward tho Premier is
growing ia court circles. man" of the
women OK tho court having already signi-
fed al intention 80 remain in retirement
50 long Is Premier ranslejss continues in
ppRa -.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-09-16
WHITE DEFEATS CURnSS
EngIlshman First in Special
Match Speed Test.
ALMOST A MILE A MINUTE
A. v. Roe, English Aeronaut,
Wrecks Second Machine, and
Is Injured.

Boston. Sept. 1S.-Driving his Bleriot
r1onoplane NJ approximately mile min
ute. Claude Grahsme White. the English
aviator. brought 10 successful close MS
first American engagement by defeating
Glenn H. Curtiss the American flyer. and
worlds speef champion of the air III a
special match speed test at the Harvard
aviation field at Atlantic to-day by IS 10
seconds in a fve-and-a quarter milo race.
White thereby won the $4,000 Harvard cup
offered by an unknown Harvard graduate,
and again made new speed mark for the
field by going over the course In . minutes
a. 10 seconds. White also added 10 his
fortnight of winnings the John Hays Ham
n,opd cup. the second prize for a special
bomb throwing contest. Ralph .Jehastone.
the Wright aviator. taking tie first prize,
tho City az Boston cup.
This was the closing day OF the Harvard
aviation meet which had been so successful
that II was extended two DAYS over the orig
inal dates of September 8 70 IS. and "
yyae raa-red by the first noteworthy acct
dent OF nearly fortnights living A v
Roe an English aerenaut, who has had
bad luck with his two triplanes, wrecked
his second machine to-day. aud vas pam
fully but not seriously injured rising rem
feet in the air, he made good Hisht, me
length Of the field. hut in attempting To turn
pvlon the triplane plunged TO the ground,
fine vreckage woundng Foe about the face
and forehead and left hand He Ess taken
to the field hospital where six stitches were
taken in p face wound
From an elevation of eighteen hundred
feet neither tombstone nor White could mr.
two hundred square feet of canvas on the
ground each throwing six eggs, but John
stones shots we're better and earned him
the Citv of Boston cup. During the day
White carried as passengers on snort
flights William Carroll Hill and A. j. Phil
pot. Boston newspaper men Lieutenant 6.
T. L. stone. OF the United States ship Ches-
ter: W. Startling Burgess. Of Marbleheah;
C. T Curtis of Boston: Carl y. SylVester
of Waltham. and sydney Macdonald OF
England. Ralph tombstone took UP J. v
Ma rtin, Of Boston
Tonight the aviators and n1anag" ment
of the aero meet we're entertained at a BAN
ouet at the City Club by Mayor John +.
FITZGERALD.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-09-16
MEXICO REVIEWS HISTORY
Pageant Pictures Nations Ca
reer from Aztec Times.

Mexico City. Sept b Mexico brushed up
on its history today. witnessing . pageant
which pictured in chronological order nota-
bic occurrences from tho days OF the Astees
down to the establishment of the present
republic.
The parade in which twelve hundred
persons, after weeks of planning and re-
search. took part passed through the
square in front Of the national palace, and
there was reviewed by President piaz dip
lomats end specal ambassadors to the cen
tennia celehratinn. Careful attention hsd
been given to the Costumng of the differ
ent periods represented. and the general
effect was excellent.
First came u group IF Aztec warriors.
carrying the standards of the lords % Mon
teZIm8, who foil early In tn" sixteenth cen
fury before the Spanish conaueror Her
nando Cortes: Indian Processes borne In
a palanquin: Cortcs himself. accomps MED
by Dona Marina, his Indian mistress. who
rose from the position of = slave to po-
Iitcsl Importance; mounted mUsketeers,
bowmen captains friars and the Tia xca-
Ian allies.
In the second group were some of the
viceroys who held office after the vice
royalty Of New Spain was founded, al
ca ldes councillors and members of the
court.
The next division told the story OF More
los and others who lost their heads for
fomenting a revolution against Spain in
1s1o-'15; the entry into the city OF the allied
armies under Augustin de Iturhde the
royaliSt colonel who brought about the
shortlived monarchy and vas proclaimed
emperor in 1922.
The federal republic was portrayed. and
then the French invasion. the siege OF
Qucrctaro. where Emperor MaXmilian was
shot on June 10, 1857; The birth of the re-
public of Mexico, and the more familiar
epochs Of the last half century.
President Diaz gave an audience TO-DAY
to the visiting newspaper men.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-09-16
AEROPLANE TOURS PLANNED
C. J. Glidden Offers Valuable
Trophy for Annual Contests.

Boston. Sept. 15.-Aeroplane tours. to be
conducted or plans similar tn those govern
ing automobile tours. ar" embraced in a
proposition ANNOUNCED to-day by Charles J..
Gliddcn. originator OF the Glidden tours for
automobiles which have become the prin-
ripal events Of ;'r~'r kind in the United
States. Tho proJelt Of air tours is a de-
voiop1nent of the HaI Boston aviation
meet which closed to-day, and to encourage
it Mr.. Glidden, who was chairman Of the
Harva nd Boston meet has offered val
liable trophy TO the National Council of
Affiliated Aero Clubs to BE- competed for
annually under such rules IS the national
council may prescribe. It is planned that
the initial air tour shall be started from
the Harvard Boston aviation field, at At
lantic, IN 1911. In speaking of the matter
TO-DAY MI. Gldden said:
THE climax OF sports will be reached in
1911 when al aeroplane tour across coun-
try will he organized on lines similar 10
those OH which the automobile tours are
now conducted =
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-09-16
DIET ELECTS RUSSIA'S FOE
Gvinhufvud Defiant Toward Gov
eminent of Gar.

ITelsingfors. Finland, Sept. 15.-The Fir
rish Diet reassenbled TO-DAY and re-elect-
ed President Syinhufvud. who is a Judge
and persona non grata to the Russian gov
eminent
When the Diet last adjourned its members
we're in an ugly mood. They had received
and promptly returned. without action
thereon, to the Emperor the imperial meas
are providing for Joint legislation by the
Donna and Diet. but which in effep eX-
tended the authority of the former over the
Finnish body and paved the way for the
elimination Of the grand duchy law
making government. Subsequently the bill
was adopted bv the Donna and the Council
Of the Empire.
IN" attitude Of resistance IN imperial
legislation which has been quietly mani
Tested in Finland for months past was OK
empifed in President Svinhufvud's speech
after his election to-day. He pointed out
that these We're critical times for Finnish
autonon7y and said: We are still to
derGo n more severe trial than ever, AS the
Diet has been asked to sanction terrible
threads on She constitution. Hard times
face us. but we shall survive, handing TO
the genera tons to come the most precious
treasure spotle&s. standard, refusing To
negotiate the sale OF our Hberties."
Tn" new Diet. which possibly viii hc the
last one as at present constituted, will he
opened formally tomorrow by Governor
General Zciu, It's task this fall will be TO
consider a series of measures tending to
establish closer ties between the grand
5uchy and the empire. Two bills relating
10 the rights Of Russian subjects in Finland
and 10 q tax IN lieu of personal military
service VIII be introduced on the opening
day These bills arc the direct proposals Of
the Russian Ministerial Council, bearing
the signature OF Premier Stoiypin and all
The other ministers. Further bills relating
40 .l,c election Of the Finnish members OF
the Douma and the Council OF the Empire
viii he submitted later.