The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1910-04-23

 Straw 
THE FAMOUS
 CHANTICLEER
IsHaving a Wide Vogue among American Women-What n.
 Rostand is Responsible for

 little to the left, is fiat bow of burnt orange velvet ribbon.
 In the upper rfght-hand corner ts one of the modified Gatnsboroughs- It differs in that the crown Is more dome shaped and the br1Tn turns up more over the face than at the side It is made of mauve-colored Neapolt- tan braid with 8 tangle of purple and white clematis with leaves and ten drills about the crown
 Many of us will welcome the straw tooue that is always in good form with almost any style of costume. One shown in a very exclusive shop ia of gray horsehair with two rich mouse gray plumes that are almost green tn the shadows. They are fastened to the crown with a cab&chon of pearls and cerise velvet, which is twisted about the crown.
 The bicorne greatly resembles the Chanticleer, which is the latest sensa- ton from Paris.
 The one in the illustration is about the largest adaptation of the Napoleon that has been offered. It is of black velvet and trimmed with a tall, glossy, black brush aigrette. In the back the brim rolls nearly to the crown and is slightly pointed in the centrey where in the front, the point is cut out, mah- which shows the crown. This is a great improvement, as an abruptly turned-up surface is very trying to some faces, and the crown showing beyond the brim gives perspective as it were.
 The Chantic1eer differs from this in that it is a trif1e shorter from ear to ear, and the back and front of the brim roll up over the crown till they nearly meet all the way, thus making a very narrow, almost straight hat with not the slightest suggestion of %p&As aigrette, a tall cockade, very much like the tailfeathers of the lordlyi cock, wave defantly to the winds.
 The hat to the left is one of the sunshade variety and very picturesque for country or seashore wear. It @ made of net black or lace, shirred onto wire frame with transparent rim of horsehair of a soft, nght-blue tone that does exquisite things to the com pIexion. About the crown is tangIe of small flowers, blue hyacinths, lilies of the valley and smilax leaves and tendrf1s. The distinguishing feature lies in the black velvet ribbon that passes over the crown, hanging on the brim in long streamers.
 New this summer is the ideE Of turning up the hat directly 1n front. Most faces require the soft undula- tion of wide supple brim as 2 back ground, however. For those who can wear a severe hat, the one Illustrated is very modish It is made of glossy go1den-brown Neapolitan braid, the front being held to the crown by 9 band of tobacco-brown velvet ribbon. This forms background for the three large yellow poinsettias and lilies of the valley that are placed with studied carelessness about the crown
 The tricorne in the lower 1efthand corner shows the universally becOm- ing type of Napoleon It is a model that can be worn the year around with almost any costume. It is Of deep, sea-green noire, faced with black satin, and has poised at the back, a little to the left, three beauti- full glossy plunes of a deep, gray green shade, with black ribs. The placing of the p1umes is excellent, but while it looks very simple, really re- qutres masterhand to adjust. A soft drape of greenish-gray tull9 fills in the space between the dome-shaped crown and the brim.
 Another type belonging to the same class is depicted in the lower right hand corner, and, for women who can wear unique clothes, this is very stun ming in it's masterfuI severity. The tip is of white ottoman silk, the wide, Haunting brim being faced in black velvet. The br1nn in front lies quite flat and narrow above the face, grRdu- ally rolling upward, on the right side, where it is held near the crown by a cabachon of black carved jet from which escapes a long drape of carved jet beads connecting 1t with the ca crown in the back.