New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-09-25
TIE Empire of Fashion
Paris Still Leads But Her Days Are Numbered
American Designers Say.

, world. but we lack that sympathetic touch
n, the handling of materials and colors ina,
they seem TO have on this side Of the water
Some claim that It is climate, or tradition
or the surroundings of art and beauty; We
have got 10 acquire IL before the American
woman will be satisfied with home maze
clothes.
Among the most fashionable color COM
binations this season is one that has al
WAYS been a favorite with American wom-
en-. and that is red and dark blue. Blue
cloth or serge trimmed with red is popular
for morning tailored suits, and the coinpi-
nation is equally conspicuous In elaborate
materials. A private order made up In
dull red Liberty satin was Velleo WIN
dark blue mousseline de sole.
About eight inches from the hem or Inc
blue skirt started band OF Woollen EN-
broidery done in blue. red and black TINS
was about eight inches deep In front, u.s.
ing higher on the sides. The skirt, winch
started from a high waistline, was gath
cred on TO this, and where II reached the
trimming was a line Of black gauze riobon,
with a big rosette on each side. The belt
was made of q drapery of mousseiine de
sole and there was a smaller rosette on
each side a little to the back The bodlce
was cut out in a deep square deconetage
front and back; 1t was made entirely OF
the embroidery. and under IL was a de-
basement of plain red velvet cut out In
turn TO show a guimpe and undersleeves
Of pale cream Chantilly lace The sleeves
were short and close, the undersleeve bare
ly covering the elbows.
The one-piece gown Is not conspicuous
among the new fashions. However, there
is always in Paris at least a demand dur
ing the winter for a style of costume
that can be worn with handsome fur set
For certain afternoon functions some
thing In the nature of a one-piece gown
IS more suitable than tvo-piece suit, and
il certainly shows off a fur set to better
advantage than does coat and skirt suit.
An excellent gown TO wear a fur set with
was In one OF the satin-faced cloths. the
surface so glossy that It looked quite like
satin, and yet having the good hanging
qualities of cloth. The gown was made
like a tunic overskirt, fastened on one side
and attached to bolero top. The trim
ming was an embroidery of colored silk
braids on a dun yellow silk surface. the
design initiating exactly that of old cash
mere. This trimming made the belt that
finished the bolero. edged the short, straight
sleeves and overskirt and indicated the
closing down the front of the latter Only
a few inches Of the underskirt showed.
and this space was untrimmed- The
guimpe and undersleeves were rather orig
inal. In the first place, they were made OF
black satin. instead of the more usual thin
white stuff, and the sleeves were long.
very close and wr1nkled a little into the
side seams over the hands they finished
in points made of a fine soutache embroid-
cry or net. The front Of the gown was
cut out in a pointed decolletage. and this
was filled in with black satin stock, high
and wrinkled about the throat.
The new scoop bonnets are taking i'm
mensely. The most fashionable shapes are
those turning up IN the back TO show
the arrangement Of the hair. There are
many draped turbans. and queer little
fashion is bit of the drapery falling down
the back with tassel on the end. This re-
calls the funny little trains that many of
the evening gowns show. the gown short
with the exception of a narrow panel or a
point lying on the floor and ornamented
with one or two tassels
ETHELYN MIDDLETON.