The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-05-01

and most ripping II moirts, and this
Eton. with lts big. soft revors and long
sleeves finished by plated lace frins was
worn over a froCk Of gray and White
striped chiffon or some such tlmy stun
veilings. a pink that echoed the roe
reflections IN the MORE and WA Inset WIN
cream lace whose design showed family
through the yelling chiffon.
The belted coat In many forms IL much
used for silk coat and skirt costumes and
along with Directoire. Eton, Russian, &c..
come coats Of Louis XIV. suggestion.
One French maker has turned out several
good looking models on these lines. one
heing Of natural tone pohgee in ono OF
tho soft. smooth. heavy veaves with
trimming Of silk covered buttons and
loops and a Waistcoat Of satin In one
Of tho vivid blues between hag and sap
phire. These bright glaring blues are
much used a. a relieving note both IN
irocks and millinery. and they are par
tcularly good when veiled or partially
veiled with semi-transparent black.
The pongees are all popular both for
frOcks and tailored coat and skirt models,
and one % the latest and most mOdish
voaves Of this silk 10 a very heavy soft.
rough pOnRes known a. Baroness. BLACK
Rajah is considerably worn for severe
tailored coat and skirt suits. particularly
by elderly women. but the rough black
silk has a way Of looking shabby upon
Sigh" provocatiOn and for some reason
or other there seems always 70 be slight
suggestion Of mourning about this silk
IN black. although IL Ia by no means e.
scntially a mourning material.
The smoother weaves Of pOngee in
black. provided they are soft and heavy
enough to look handsome and tailor
we'll. are better looking than the modish
rough rajah. and some OF the stores show
excellent tailored models in such silk
with black satin collars and possibly a
few folds Of the satin by way Of trim
ming. These are made up more conserva-
lively than are the French frocks Of
black satin already discussed. and should
appeal 20 the middle aged woman who
onoe had dificulty in finding a cool. black
silk tailored suit save In taHeta.
Natural tone pOnges IL much more in
demand than pongee In any other color
ings. though beautiful shades are shown
in this material and made up alone CT
clmbined with satin or with sheer yelling
materials. On the natural tone tailored
costumes self-tone braiding in discreet
quantities IL frequently used. generally
used. one might say. and one often finds
hand embroidery in self or contrasting
color employed on the natural tone pom
gee. A note Of black in girdle. cravat
or revers 10 frequently noted on the cos
tune Of natural tone pongee, az for that
matter on all costumes or frocks whatever
may he their colors.
Black satin 10 literally used with other
silks, crspes. fouiArds. pongess. &c. A
iayorte idea Ia TO make the bottom Of the
skirt of this material. while the rest Of
the frock ls Of other material in some
striking color. merely relieved by folds
or piping or some slight trimming Of The
black satin. Or perhaps the skirt hand
is oi black satin and the yoke or bodice
top and sleeves. cut in one are Of the black
satin. while In between some sheer ma
ter.al plain or agured Ia used.
Foulards are in great demand, but 30
much has been said concerning this silk
earlier in the season that more than a
mention Of it does not seem necessary
now. although II 10 an important factor
in the making o. this silk season The
prettiest Of the foulard models are those
cs'ensihly simple and built up Of the
exquisite qualities Of the silk which are
known a. foulArd here but 60 under
various names alb road. though they are
printed in what people have learned to
consider foulard designs. Very little
trimming Ia needed for q fOulsrd. the de-
sign Of the silk furnishing ornamentation
enough
The brown and white foulard sketchsd
here has a good sslf-tnmming in shirred
cords Of the silk. Cleverly disposed. and
the only relief 10 IN ne bands Of plain
brown chiffon introduced in the sleeves.
the cream net guimps with a narrow hand
Of brown chiffon below the collar hem and
the cream net underslesves