East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-08
THE FASHIONS AS THEY
PASS.


modes becomes less. Women of
fashion, even when they have lots of
money to spend upon dress are less
Inclined to experiment with the new
modes until they are sure what will
be generally worn. That is one rea-
son why so much emphasis is put up
on mid-season clothes: they answer
all purposes of the present, without
making any claims to service after
the midseason
The ultra-smart mid-season suit is
a compromise between the clothes
for August and the clothes for De-
cember. 1t should pay for the mon
ey spent on it and it should be well
cut and we'll chosen. Just now the
tendency is toward the gun metal ef-
feet, with it's invisible stripes OF black
and grey. One might say that all the
invisible stripes are to the front again.
There are most attractive shadings in
violet and green, or purple and gray
and Of three tones of blue. There
are striped browns and tan and mix
lures of these mingled tones, but
somehow the solid colors in the diff
ferent shades of brown are better
than combinations.
The popularity for saddle or mus
tard-colored fabrics during the sum-
mer will run over into the early fall,
although the tones may be shaded
down bit. There are admirable
hopsacking cloths with a rough sur
face in dull yellow that look we'll in
September, as they are a compromise
between the sombre clothes OF win
ter and the vivid light ones of sum-
mer.
With the approach OF. fall, natural
ly dressmakers' attention turns to-
ward the outer wraps and it is we'll to
note that some exceedingly smart
coats for general wear are developed
in the new striped fabrics and built
upon tailor lines. Their designs are
extremely simple but the garments are
cut upon perfect lines and finished
with the highest elegance.
The short coat is much in evidence,
| but the long coat is also among those
present in the ultra-smart world Of
dress. The new long coats score a
triumph over the short models,
though because they simulate the lat
| ter by the aid of well-arranged trim
| mings.
Just where many OF the new short
coats end below the hips, the long
| models have a large pocket stitched
and outlined with silk braid matching
the darkest tone in the color scheme
of the fabric. At their longest those
| coats do not extend below half the
width Of the hem.
| The length Of the coat must be de-
cided largely by the individual fig
ure. Grace of line is more than the
whim of fashion, and if a short coat
is more becoming than long one,
then let the coat be short. Smart
women, well-dressed women and con-
servative women all wear both long
and short coats in many kinds of fab
| RIGS. The single breasted coat Is still
in style for women, though young
girls models are displayed with
charming varieties of the double
breasted effect. Among the latest
designs from Paris, the hip appears
narrower than ever, while the coats
button in single breasted over the
| bust. This means that the front is
shaped in such a way to give the de-
cided double breasted effect at the
waistline. This is done with loops and
covered buttons. They are not easy
to cut, because they must preserve
straight lines under the arms and the
unwrinkled fronts, while at the same
time they must be drawn around the
waist and fastened
AS Dame Fashion counts much up
on individuality in house dresses, one
need not worry so much about au-
tumn frocks yet a while, although it Is
ticklsh business speculating upor
feminine caprice. In the spring and
at intervals since the directoire note
has been slightly but insistently
sounded and months ago a revival OF
short WASTED lines and other direc-
toire features was predicted. The
event has fulfilled the prophecy. The
wastline of the new frocks and coats
do not show any pronounced shorten
ing, but a high belt line is seer
upon a large percentage Of the late
summer models and directoire revers
collars, etc. have multiplied. The
shortened waistlne effect is frequent
" obtained rather by a widening OF
girdle than by a real raising Of the
line. The wide wrinkled girdle OF
! which mention was made during the
! Paris season has asserted itself more
and more, and particularly in black
velvet on black satin has been fea-
ture of many >of the smartest toilets
displayed at the fashionable summer
resorts.
1t is of course, worn in colors. toe
and may finish with a big chou or
bow at the left side or in some know
ing way in the back Other details
of importance include yokes and
guimpes. Of which there is no end OF
delightful varieties. The demure
fichu. than which there was never a
prettier and more dalntily feminine
bodice arrangement has stolen back
gradually into favor and wherever
smart frocks are displayed, the fichu
IL a noteworthy feature. Even upon
black and dark gowns as of full fichu
OF white mousseline is often intro
duced and for that matter sheer white
over black or dark color has been con-
siderably exploited.