Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-08-14

T-NSiy Guy III the east mas Wnat we
call a public square. The Spaniards call
it plaza, the Italians a
FAMOUS piazza, the Germans a platz,
pl,,, and the orientals rigistan.
1t is used as a market place,
rendezvous for the inhabitants, pa
rade ground for assemblies of the people
and for demonstrations of rejoicings and
dlspleasure. What has often been de-
scribed as the most notable rigistan In
the world may be found in the center of
the ancient city of Samarkand. 1t has
excited the admiration of every one who
has ever visited this place. 1t has in
Spired the enthusiasm Of architects,
archeoloSlSts and historians; it has been
the theme OF poets and painters, and has
been sketched and photogra pied and
painted and talked about more than any
other spot in all Asia for several hun
dred years.
This famous rigistan is about four hum
dfed feet square, paved with ordinary
blocks of stone, and is inclosed on three
sides by some of the most majestic eX-
amples of Saracenic or Arabian architec-
ture ever erected. The fourth side is
open and occupied by ramshac kle booths
made of mud walls. odd pieces of lum-
per, strips of canvas, sheets of tin and
other promiscuous materials, for the sale
of vegetables, meat and miscellaneous
OF a place, hotch-potch but is attended
by some of the most serious and serene
men of oriental type that you can i'm
aglne. They wear garments of brilliant
in stripes and plaids and their intellec-
tual-loOking heads are crowned with
snowy turbans, but their legs and feet are
bare They squat with their legs crossed
in little narrow booths. sip coffee, smoke
cigarettes, gossip with each other and
Wranpip with their the
prices of their wares
Lord Curzon, in his admirable book
called Russia in Central Asia published
in 1889, declares that the
CurZons rigistan of Samarkand
roA was originally and is
STILL even in it's ruins.
the noblest public square in the world. I
know nothing in the east approaching 1t
in massive simplicity and grandeur, and
nothing in Europe, save perhaps on a
humber scale-the piazza di San Marco
at Venice--which can even aspire to enter
the competition. No European spectacle
indeed can adequately be compared with
it in our inability to point to an open
space in any western city that is COM
manded on three of it's four sides by
gothic cathedrals of the finest order. For
it is clear that the medresse of central
Asian Mahometanism in both its archi-
tectural scope and design is lineal
counterpart and forerunner of the minister
Of the west. Instead of the intricate
sculpture and tracery browning the point
ed archwayS of the gothic front, we see
the enameled tiles of Persia, framing the
portal of stupendous magnitude. For
the flanking minister towers spires are
substituted two soaring mnarets. The
central lantern of the west is anticipated
by the saracenic dome, and in lieu of
artificial color thrown through tinted
panes, from the open heavens shine down
the azure Of the eastern sky and the
glory of the eastern sun. What Samar-
kand must have been in its prime, when
these great fabrics emerged from the
mason's hands, intact and glittering with
all the effulgence Of the rainbow, their
chambers crowded with students, their
sanctuares- thronged by pilgrims and
their corporations endowed by kings, the
ina gination can still make some endeavor
to depict.
picture Lord CurZon has painted without
profound emotion, but think he has put
it rather strong.
These magnificent medresses are col
leges for the education of young Mahom-
medans who desire to be-
MoSlem come priests or judges or
Gill; officials of the government.
ooAIe5eo' There is no object for an
oriental to obtain an education unless he
desires to fill one of those positions. The
medresses were erected by wealthy and
benevolent men for the same reason and
with the same motive that inspired the
generous gifts that have recently been
made to Princeton and are now being
enjoyed by other institutions Of learning
in the United States.
Each of the three colleges occupies the
full side of the square. Two of them,
standing opposite, are very similar In pro-
portions and design. The third. opposite
the vacant side of the square, is quite
different and unique among all the build
ings of the kind that l have ever seen.
This is called the medresse of Uleg Beg.
and was built by a grandson Of Tanner
lane in 1921
Upon the east side Of the square is the
medresse of ShirDar the lion bearer),
so-called from the pictures OF Persian
lions upon the enamel tiles which cover
the facade. 1t was built by the en,ir who
ruled at Samarkand in 1901, descendant
of Tamerlane.
The third, called the Tillah-Kar, which
means 1.-The gold plated" or "gOld COW
cred" was built in 1918 by the Emir
Mira Ourlank, also a descendant of Ia
merlane. and was SO named because or
the gold enamel and mosaic work and
the gold leaf with which it's surface was
covered. The architect of Tfllah-kar was
an Arabian, but-woe to him who lacketh
reverence and gratitude-his name has
been forgotten
The medresses Of Uleg Beg and Shr-
Oar are both entered through majestic
arches sixty feet wide at the
Massive base and 132 feet from the
~ =, threshold to the apex, which
WALLS is a narrow point. These
arches are surrounded by noble and mas
sive facades of masonry. which. at one
time, were entirely covered with Persian
tiles of deep turquoise color, bearing
fancifuI but artistic designs. Each panel
was different. and on either side of the
arch elaborate arabesques were interviewer
with inscriptions from the Koran In the
beautiful Arabic script which is so orna-
mental and can be utilized in such an
effective way in all forms of decorations.
The elevation of the facades is perhaps
1GO or 175 feet-I could not get the exact
py.I1