davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
He desire to make things that are

r He desire to make things that are
pretty and artistic seems to be
very active one in the mental
makeup of the average girl and she Is
constantly reaching out after new
ideas, and experimenting with various
materials and different methods of US
ing them. Anything that requires spe-
cial eools or that takes a great deal OF
time to do is not apt to find as much
favor with her as the things that can
be done with home Implements, and
in which a good effect can be obtained
quickly and without much labor.
Cut leather work has these two good
qualities, and not only these, but 1t is
really artistic and practical as we'll.
The only things needed for doing the
work are the leather and pair of
sharp pointed scissors or a penknife.
The designs are stamped on the leather
Just as they are on materials for en-
broidering. with perforated patterns
and stamping powder. or they are
transferred to the surface with carbon
paper and a sharp pencil.
: For hurry up" presents this method
is just the thing. All that has to be
done is to cut out the lines of the pat
tern with sharp scissors and then glue
a piece of some contrasting material
such as silk or velvet, underneath.
The leather generally used is sheep
or calf skin, which can be purchased at
any department or art material store
for less than dollar skin. One skin
will make a good sized mat and a
couple of bags; two will be needed for
a sofa cushion. one for each side, but
there will be pieces left over from
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

width is often used for the three por-
uons and narrower edging usually
hnlshes Ahe sides: In almost all of the
new jabots the pleats turn toward the
center. and there are generally at least
fonr OF them on each side
The one sided jabots are an exception
TO this rule; in these all of the pleats
turn the same way. and the bottom
slants downward in the same direction
These one sided jabots are made in both
the single and double forms
The Irish crochet lace continues to
hold its own as one of the most pop
ular laces for the neckwear; Cluny and
torchon are also used a great deal, but
they have not yet succeeded in dis
placing it, II is not very expensive to
buy, but if one wishes to crochet some
of the~slmpler patterns at home this
viii make the neckwear cost next to
nothing. Separate roses and other
motifs can be bought and fastened
on TO a plain crochet background, and
IN this way a rich effect can be OBJ
tanned without either much work or
much expense
The foundation material used for the
jabots is generally either sheer hand
kerchief linen. or else a fine net. At
the upper part where all the pleats
come together these should be laid
one on top Of another and all brought
over to the center, otherwise the top
VIII be too broad and the jabot will
not have the correct fare.
There is always an opportunity for
the addition Of hand embroidery to
these little affairs for the neck, and
even a small amount of it, just few
padded dots or eyelets or a tiny spray
OF flowers, adds disproportionately TO
the good effect. Many of the new stock
collars have insert medallions of lace.
and around these a small design in the
white embroidery is worked. Another
favorite location for a little spray of
embroidery is the panel formed at the
center Of the jabot between the two in
ner pleats, and other places that are
often decorated are the spaces between
the last pleat and the edge at the two
sides.
The stiffly laundered turnover collars
are almost always made with some
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

edges. but should not run over them.
1t is a good plan after spreading on
the glue to let it dry few moments
and then, while IL is still "tacl<y' place
1t on the lining material and smooth
1t all over gently and finally set it
under a weight until it is dry. The
care with which this gluing is done
will determine whether the work is to
be durable or not.
Very pretty combinations OF color
can be made with the leather and the
material beneath it. for the skins are
dyed in almost every shade imagin-
able The large mat for a library table
shown in the illustration is made of a
golden brown calf skin lined with vel
vet of somewhat deeper shade. The
design is a stencil pattern of conven-
tionalized flowers and leaves.
1t is an Improvement to many pieces
of the cut leather work to have a line
drawn with a fine pen and black draw
ing ink around all the openings about a
sixteenth of an inch from the cut edge.
This has been done in the case of the
mat shown in the picture. and also for
the other articles illustrated. The ink
line gives very much the same effect
that the burned mark does in pyrogra-
ply. 1t must be drawn very carefully,
for II 1t is irregular it will spoil the
whole appearance. There are cases
where the work looks better without
this line, but as rule IL Is more at
tractive with IL.
Sometimes the lining is of color
which forms a contrast with the Ieath-
. er, as. for instance. when the gray
leather is placed over a lining of olive
green or steel blue or old rose, and the
brown is used over leaf green or burnt
orange Tan leather may have lining
of green or brown. terra Gotta. one of
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

which the fan were mounted were
heavily carved.
We'll" said the girl who had been
listening. I am going to start my fan
this very day I suppose that IL 1
go TO one OF the places where they de-
sign embroideries and tell them just
what I want they will make pattern
for me- And fortunately 1 have a
very old and Ill used fan whose sticks
are still intact, although the cover
ing is ruined; 1 believe I Will take 1t
with me- so that the design Gan be
in keeping I know there are places
where they make a speciality of mount
ing fans, so there viii not be any
trouble in that respect"
II believe will look up some of the
books and articles on fans at the
library, and pay another visit to the
collection at the museum, so that will
know lust about what l want before
begin"
And then" returned the fan enthu-
siast. IF your work turns out well, you
might enter It IN one of the arts and
crafts exhibitions. The interest in all
of these things is growing to be very
general, and one might as well keep
step with the procession.
Yes" returned the embroiderer,
some OF the work I saw at the arts
and crafts last year has been an in
snfration to me ever since. 1t would be
a pleasure to make even a small con-
tribution to one of these collections.
But she ended. laughingly. this Is
counting our chickens before they are
hatched. I think ! had better wait and
see first how my fan turns out"
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
PRETTY BITS OF NGCMWExAR; COLLARS JAB0TS AND FRHN

tren,e width Of some of the new jabots
two handkerchiefs are used, PLAIN one
in the middle and strip from one lh"I
is embroidered on each side or IT, Wheh
added length is desired a portion OF an
embroidered handkerchief is placed pc
low a plain one and connected with IL
by a band of insertion. often strips OF
insertion are set into the handker-
chiefs lengthwise TO improve the effect
A use has been found for the Dutch
collars. now that the weather has De-
come too cool to have the neck ex-
posed as it was in the summertime.
The collars are worn on coats ana
dresses in conjunction with the or
binary stocks. and in this way they
are made comfortable and suitable FOR
the season.
Sets composed of the long coat col
lars and wide cuffs are also worn,
made either Of lace or of embroidered
linen Some of those in the heavy irish
crochet with large flower and lear
forms covering their surfaces, are es-
pecially beautiful.
Little narrow fiat bows and long ends
of Irish insertion are occasionally seen,
and these generally have a crocheted
ball finishing each Of the ends
As for the shapes in which the Jabots
are made. some are square across the
bottom. some are pointed IN the middle
and some slant down to a point at one
side.
The pressing OF the jabots into the
proper form is quite an art, and II IS
generally best TO crease the pleatS IN
with the fingers first before applying
an iron to them. Some of the women
who make a practice OF doing up their
own neckwear claim that the Jabots
have a much fresheT, fuller look II they
are not ironed. and after laying IN the
pIeats by hand they place the articles
i'm a book under a weight for day or
so before using.
The woman who crochets or emorold-
ers has an advantage over the others
in the making OF neckwear, but even
those who can do only plain sewing can
create quantities of these pretty things
in their leisure moments
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

olive or tan. bronze green one of golden
brown. and so on in all the comoina-
tions OF soft and mellow colors.
Even for things that are subjected to
constant wear. like shopping bags anu
purses the cut leather work Is very
durable if the gIuing is firmly done
For the shopping bag illustrated gray
leather has Been used over piece OF
soft. heavy steel blue SIR. The circles
in the designs can be cut cut very
quickly with a harness punch or 10
cent leather perforator, which can De
driven through the leather with ham
mCr. Curved manicure scissors or
sharp penknife can be made to cut cir
c1es and curves very well. but when
there are many dots in the pattern one
of the punches is a great saver OF labor
For a bag Of this kind, OF course, sep
arate silk lining will be needed besides
the one that is glued to the leather, and
silk cords to draw 1t up by must be run
through a casing or through holes
punched in the bag itself.
Very pretty belts can be made OF calf
skin with a design cut in the middle OF
the back Flat buckles may be covered
with the leather to match, or metal
buckles can be used.
Little purses drawing up with fine
silk cords are among the easiest and
most useful of the things that can be
made OF cut leather, and card cases.
desk sets, calendars and blOtters, to-
bacco pouches. photo frames, sofa cush-
ions and table squares are Just few
of the other things that this method
and material are good for
The sofa cushion shown in the Illus
tration is of tan sheepskn, made with
the smooth side out. and the material
which shows through the openings is
golden brown leather. used with it's un-
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
FIRST PRIZE
Sterling Silver Lettuce Fork
PortoIa Cake
Mrs. VI. ShankIin, 1909 Madison Street,
Oakland

Mrs. VI. ShankIin, 1909 Madison Street,
Oakland
Cake part-Two- thirds cupful of but
ter, one cupful granulated sugar, one
cupful powdered sugar, one cuptul milk.
three and a half cupfuls sifted pastry
flour, whites of six eggs (you can use
the yolks of eggs in less delicate cake) :.
three rounded teaspoonfuls baking pow
der; one teaspoonful each of vanilla.
almond and lemon. Cream butter add
sugar gradually, cream we'll; add milk
and flour Gin which baking powder has
been sifted), beat egg whites as stiff
as possible, then add to batter; then
add faVoring; beat all with light rapid
strokes until smooth; bake in layer tins
in quick oven.
Filling for Cake-Two- thirds cupful
lgranulated sugar, q quarter cupful of
water, white OF one egg, quarter of q
pound of marshmallows, one teaspoon
full Of water, one or vanilla Cut
marshmallows in small pieces. add one
teaspoonful of water and set In pan
of hot water to dissolve or melt, Mix
water and sugar, boil until if dropped
from spoon 1t viii spin thread; whip
egg white stiff, pour on sugar syrup,
whipping all the time; when it begins
to thicken add dissolved marshnallows.
beat until stiff enough to spread Before
spreading, add half cup of chopped
full of seeded raisins chopped fine. three
figs cut into fine strips, three or four
on top Of cake. If you prefer the cake
to look white, make another portion
of marshmallow filing and spread on
top Of the fruit filling. This Is an ex-
tremely rich and delicious cake.
Mocha CaI<e-Cake part-Half a cup
of butter, one cup of granulated sugar,
two and a half cups of sifted -four, two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, yoll<
OF one egg, whites Of three: three
fourths of a cup of milk; vanilla to
suit your own taste. Cream butter. add
sugar, cream we'll, add milk and -four
with baking powder sifted in). flavor
ing; then eggs whites whipped stiff) !:
beat well with light, rapid strokes until
smooth. Bake in layer tins in quick
oven.
Filling-Take half a pound unsalted
butter. cream we'll; then add one cup
of powdered sugar. cream; beat into
this the yolks of two eggs; then beat
into this drop by drop, q little more
than half a cup of fresh black coffee
q mean liquid. Beat all these until a
creamy mass. Be careful not to add
the coffee too fast. Spread between and
on top OF layers and sprinkle chopped
walnuts on. You will observe that this
filing is very rich and, while tasting
like whipped cream, It has the ad-
vantage of keeping a week. The cake
I do not make as rich as some of my
other recipes because the filing is so
rich, and you notice both filing and
cake take only three eggs, as I use
the whites in cake. This is most de-
licious and makes large three layer
cake.
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
Cracker Cake
t. NJ. L.. Liyermore. Cal.

One and a half cups sugar, half cup
butter, one cup walnuts (chopped), half
cup raisins Chopped and fioured), half
cup citron, a cup grated chocolate, one
and half cups rolled cracker crumbs
(good measure), one teaspoonfu1 bak-
ing powder mixed with cracker crumbs,
four teaspoonfuls milk, seven eggs
(whites and yolks beaten separately.
Rub butter and sugar to cream, add
yolks slowly, milk, cracker crumbs slow
ly, whites of eggs by degrees and lastly
fruit and chocolate. Bake In moderate
oven. This cracker cake will keep for
an indefinite time and is a splendid sub
stitute for rich fruit cakes. It takes
only an hour to bake and is very fine.
Nut Cookies-Two cups brown sugar,
half cup molasses, three eggs, pinch of
several different spices, three heaping
teaspoonfuls grated chocolate, quarter
cup milk, one and half teaspoonfuls
baking powder mixed in two and three
quarter cups -four, one cup nuts,
almonds preferred (not chopped, in
halves). Bake 35 minutes. Grease
paper and pan and put batter in so the
depth is about an inch. You can Judge
the size of pan from the amount Of
batter, which should be quite stiff. Cut
into long, narrow strips while hot. then
allow to cool and set away in covered
jar. They are long, hard sticks but
very appetiZing, and can be kept a long
while. Nice to serve with punch or any
drink
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

f seems TO he an imDossibiIftv for
woman TO have enough Of the neck
dressings and frills that are with US
tr one form or another every season
-.eN add a magic touch to the plainest
ot shirt waists and give an opportunity
lof continual freshness and variety at
very little expense.
To is true that almost any amount can
6e paid for pretty bits OF hand embroid-
cry and real lace. but if the enbroid-
cry is done at home, and if the real
lace Is bought by the yard and made ur,
tT the purchaser into the various ar
lcles or neckwear this viii bring the
cost OF very beautiful pieces within the
reach OF even a limited purse.
One thing that makes the present
fashions in neckwear appear at first
sight unduly expensive is their length
and tulness; from the small and modest
tabs OF a season or so ago they have
Widcned and heightened until some Of
the Jabots of today require. several
yards Of insertion and edging for their
ornamentation instead of the scraps OF
lace that formerly answered the pur-
pose.
II is said that the low neck openings
of the new coats have been the cause
ri tle unusual size in the jabots. as
the latter have been needed to III in
The space thus left exposed, bat quite
as likely the fashion would have come
without this, and is simply the natural
reaction and swinging back TO large
STYLES from the small ones that have
preceded them.
The bows which held the field for so
Ions almost 10 the exclusion of the ia
bots have now shrunk, and have be-
come fat and narrow or have disap-
peared altogether, while the jabots have
expanded and have taken on an al
most endless variety Of styles and
shapes
Probably because they are most un-
like those Of last year the double and
triple jabots are the most popular. One
Of these is shown in the illustration,
80 has Irish crochet lace in three widths
on its three sections and the top is
finished with a little crochet rosette
with bali tasseIs. Lace Of the same
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

insertion but the one sided effects are
in the ascendent. These are. also sewed
to insertion and are generally a little
wider at the top than at the bottom.
They are bordered all around and the
insertion as well. with narrow lace
edging, or else the ruffie is hemstitched
and they are generally made with
rounded corners. as it has been found
that the effect is better that way The
ruff1ing is finely pleated before II is
gathered and sometimes. for the one
sided friIls, this ruffiing is double, the
upper piece being a little narrower
than the one placed underneath II.
Another form of the frill, which is
perhaps the prettiest and most popular
of all, has a shaped piece of fine linen
sewed to the strip of insertion on the
side opposite to the ruffie, the right
side This is narrower than the ruffie
and has a fancifully shaped outline
edged with buttonholing, while its en-
tire length is decorated with graceful
design in French embroidery
A new style of fril1 to be worn with
a plain waist is a recent Importation
from Paris. This is made of straight
band, an inch and half wide, or linen
extending from collar TO belt. covered
with a sort of beading consisting of
groups of three or four fine horizontal
tucks made in handkerchief linen and
laid across the band at intervals OF an
inch and a half Under these tucks
living between them and the band, Is
placed a strip of three inch taffeta rib
bon laid in soft folds. This makes the
ribbon appear between the groups OF
tucks, as if run through a tucked bead
ing. little fiat bow of the taffeta is
worn at the top, and each side of the
strip is bordered with a fri1 of finely
pleated handkerchief linen finished
with very narrow edging of Irish
crochet. With this there are cuffs to
match. and the set is TO be worn with
a turnover or stock collar of any suit
able design.
The use of hemstitched and embroid-
cred handkerchiefs for the jabots is not
by any means new idea, but novel ap-
plications of it are constantly being
met with. In order to secure the eX-
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

ago 7 was looking at several that
friend Of mine, who also has q passion
Tor them, brought home from Europe.
Several were fragile old AFFAIRS OF IVORY
and real lace: one was hand painted IN
2 Vatican design on silk. and another
was 4 modern embroidered fan that sne
had bought in Germany. THIS last TOOK
my fancy more than any Of the others.
II was circular in shape, made OF soLt
MALE gray silk and had a handle or
carved ivory. The design was or two
girls dancing together. with their drap-
cries floating around them. The girl IN
front had a gown OF light grayish
i,rovvn- and this was Of thin silk ap-
plioued upon the pattern and decorated
with an embroidered border IN yelIoW'
orange and green. The other figure was
srowned in pale grayish green, also OF
fhin SIX applioued. with outlining ana
etching IN lighter and darker shades OF
+be same color. The hair Of both girls
,vss reddish brown. One had floating
,-efIlflce beaddress and the other a white
ecarf A flock Of gay butterflies nut
+e~e5 over them. The soft pastel shades
- the colors were lovely, and really the
tscbrfoue was wonderful, especially IN
.be bair. The lines had almost the qual-
s+y ~ strokes with a pen, and careIul
a++entton had been paid to the tonins
80 the colors under light and shade eA-
s..flx as in a painting. OF course IN
orSer 10 execute piece Of work snch
ae t1,ss one would have 10 be an aftlsl'
b,,t leaving figures alone, there are SO
MANY decorative possibilities IN the en-
b~oi5ering Of fans that il is strange
they are not attempted oftener.
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
Fruit Cake Superior
Mrs. j. Vandrick, 62s Spencer Avenue,
San Jose

Three pounds of dry -four well sifted,
one pound sweet butter, one pound
sugar (brown), three pounds stoned
raisinS two pounds currantS, three
quarters of a pound of sweet almonds
(blanched), one pound citron cut fine,
one dozen eggs. one tablespoon allspice,
two tabIespoonfuls cinnamon. one tea
spoonful cloves, two nutmegs, one tea
cupfuI wine, one teacupful brandy. one
teacupful molasses with all spices put
utes not boiling hot. One tablespoon
ful baking soda dissolved in one table
spoonful of water The fruit should
be well Toured and added the last
thing Three teaspoonfuls baking
powder in the last flour added. Pre-
pare pans by lining them with rich
piecrust or paper we'll buttered to pre-
vent sticking. Put in layer of dough
and sprinkle the citron over II. Con-
tinue until the pan Is very nearly full.
Rub over the top with spoon dipped in
water Bake about three hours with
steady heat.
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

dressed side uppermost. The line around
the openings is done with brown draw
ing ink.
All of these articles made OF leather
can be stitched together on the sew
ing machine and instead OF using ink
a line of machine stitching can be
taken around the openings close TO
their edges. and. of course. when this
is done the glue can be dispensed with
This gives them an attractive finish
and it also improves their wearing
qualities.
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
Selected Rocipeb6f
|l1odorn HouuokQoper1
/ SECOND PRIZE
Sterling Silver Orange Spoon
Pineapple Cake

Mrs. f. ID. Maginnis, 62s Spencer Ave-
nue., San Jose
Cream together one cup sugar, half a
cup butter; add two eggs well beaten.
one cup milk and two teaspoonfuls bak-
ing powder; flour till stiff.
Filling-Pour off juice from one can
of pineapple, add half a cup of sugar,
small piece OF butter, beaten yolks of
two eggs, one teaspoonful cornstarch
dissolved in a little water; add the
pineapple, which has been chopped fine;
place on stove and let cook till it
begins to thicken; remove from fire and
let cool. Spread between layers and
make boiled frosting for the top.
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
Our Standby Cake
Mis-. A. Cain. Los Altos

Half teacup of butter. one and a half
cups of sugar. one cup of sour milk.
raisins, one teaspoonful of lemon. one
teaspoonfu1 of vanilla, one teaspoonful
of ground cinnamon. half a teaspoon
full of cloves, one teaspoonful of soda
Cream butter and sugar; then add sour
milk, -four, spices and soda, and sift
half cup of -four into bowl into
which the raisins are put. Then mix
all we'll together. Bake slowly in a
dripping pan about half an hour. This
is simple receipt. II is something
like fruit cake 1t calls for NO eggs.
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30
Old Fashioned Apple Cake
Mrs. w. II. Hatch. a31 Alabama Street
San Francisco

San Francisco
Sift two cups -four with little salt
and one and half teaspoonfuls of bak-
ing powder; then add two tablespoon
fuis lard and two tablespoonfuIs butter:
rub the shortening into the -four until
thoroughly mixed, as you would for
piecrust; then add one tablespoonful
OF sugar, two eggs and enough milk
TO make the dough stiff enough to roll.
using little more -four If necessary.
Roll out until 1T is a little thicker than
for piecrust and place in square baking
pan, letting it come up on the sides a
pies; peel and cut into eighths or six
teentlis; place in rows one in front of
the other and as close as possible.
Sprinkle literally with sugar and bake
in moderate oven until apples are
cooked. Serve either warm or cold.
The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

waInuts. one level teaspoOnful of soda
dissolved in half a cup of milk, one tea
spoonful of cinnamon and one of vanil-
la. Butter and flour pan, drop teaspoon
full of dough at a time, leaving space
between each and bake in a rather
ouicLc oven