davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

fectly do such hats bridge the gap he
tween early spring and summer In fact,
the tailored hat, like the shirt waist, may
be regarded as "a 1eveler of the femi-
nine sex. The only difference is that
the daughter OF a Wall street power
pays SD for a trimmed model from
Paris, and the daughter OF street
cleaner finds bargain counter a
for h self.
Another excellent reason for the in
creasing vogue of the tailored hat is the
latitude allowed in it's sarnishing
Whether of horse hair, braid or coarseiy
woven straw, the msin thing is to pre-
serve clear-cut outline, as otherwise
the smart effect is instantly destroyed.
With this idea In mind. the mlliner-
professional or amatCur-may adjust the
wings and bows OF whatever color, shape
or size best pleases her. At present the
tendency is to put only one sort of trim
ming on d tailored shape. Any number
Of wings may he used or yards of rib
hon arranged in bands and bows, but
the two rarely are combined.
ON a number of ultra-Smart tailored
hats appear the curiously tinted dull yell
low green. blue and red wings and quilts
Characteristic of the Gorgeously colored
South American parrot So few speci-
mems Of that quaint bird are to be Sc
cured. however, that only the woman
with a well hlled purse can hope to wear
the genuine article Nevertheless, very
good limitations of it are to be found so
artfully do the wing dealers contrive to
reproduce the plumage of whatever is
the fashionable bird of the hour.
These same odd hues. known techni-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

these weaves have heavy MORE stripe
running through their centers well as
bordering them.
The increasing size of spectacular crea-
tons is most plainly evidenced in the
variations of the Little Corporal and
Cavalier shapes which plainly are re-
sponsible for the present extreme fash
ions in headgear. Many of the novel
ties. so called are probably taken from
portraits painted by the great English
and French artists during the Napoleonic
period and from the Gainsboroughs done
during the seventeenth century, when
danes of high degree adopted the cava-
Iier shapes worn by the men of an older
generation. These extreme modes are
not only trying to the features, but the
shapes are difficult to adjust to the
head. Yet, when becoming, they are
wonderfully fetching, especially when
worn In connection with restaurant
dinner gown or an exceptionally smart
racing costume.
Because of the oyerpowerinS proper
tions of the Little Corporal brims, these
hats appear to consist chiefly of black
velvet, for their crowns. concealed by
ostrich pumes or fancy feathers, are a
minor consideration and in many cases
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

velvet placed directly against the back
of the crown. Because this development
of the nautical type of headgear is any
thing but severe. it is certain to attain
considerable vogue among all women on
the sunny side of forty, and especially
during midsummer, when, despite the
vagaries Of fashion, broad-brimmed hats
always are in general demand 1t Is
among hats OF this order that the in
creasing laXity III millinery shapes aud
their trimmings is most marked and in
the Paris ateliers it is whispered that
this delightful state of affairs may d.
rectly be traced to the visiting feminine
Americans who not only know precisely
what they want. but, having the cour-
age of conviction and the habit of ex-
pressing their opinion, insist upon hav-
ing their millinery IDEAS carried out.
Quantities OF ribbon used on all
the hats of simple type. For quite young
girls milliners are employing the hand
some liberty satin plaids of some color
barred with heavy line of black and a
band of white extending along the back.
In old blue, rose and dull green, with the
black and white, these ribbons are inn
mensely effective. Gold and old silver
blend charmingly with marine blues and
green's. but copper-newest of all the
metallic ribbons-will have a larger vogue
as the season advances. Nearly all OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

composed of maline-covered wire The
cavalier, however, while quite eXag
gerated as the Napoleon, must be COM
plete in every detail. for plumes sweep
without actually hiding the crown, which
is beautifully proportioned and rarely
marred with a band trimming. The most
fascinating model on the cavalier order
differs from the conventional Gainsbor-
oush, in that the brim flares from the
back toward the left side. thus throw
ing considerable shade over the features.
Strange though it may seem. since the
strife against the slaughter of feathered
creatures of the air has nowiSe abated,
fashionable miliiners are selling to their
clients quite many pluma ge-trimmed
chapeauX as during the peaceful period
prior to the energetic protests on the
part of the Audubonists If it be true,
as has been sometimes stated, that these
white heron plumes and exclusively tinted
ospreyS are merely clever limitations, then
due credit should be accorded to their
manufacturers, for certainly nothing in
the line of genuine bird plumage could
he more beautiful and they fill a place
on the modish picture hat for which it
would indeed be hard to find a substitute.
From one of the noted Paris ateliers S. has
recently come to New York a hat of
modest dimensions, yet withal pctur
esque. 1t is of finest white chip, banded
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26
ALI Sorts of Scarfs Are Smart.

ALI Sorts OF Scac1S ARE Suidie =
-HE canny woman who prowis ABOUT
j the shops at this season should not
neglect to search for scarf materials as
almost any fabric that is pretty ana
soft is now used for that purpose Al
one counter may be picked uD three
yard strip of fancy sauze. length o.
embroidered chiffon or bargain piece Oh
spangled lace, while few feet dlstaht
remnants OF pearl. bullion and jet tfE.ses
are perhaps being given away ana Jts.
across the aisle are hand-em oroiuefsu
borderings marked at half their ofisiiiai
price The long scarf is the ideal AZ
compa niment of the dinner. theatef anu
ball gown and il goes far toward dr1ss
ing up a comparatively simple costume
designed for afternoon street service
The REGENERATION of the Petticoat.
)NE good way of making the SILK pet
~ ticoat last longer than its ordinary
six-month span OF usefulness IS 10 make
several Of the new style adjustable
founces which may be seWed on IN a
very short space of time. These shrred
or plated founces are made in both plain
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26
Tailored Hats Less Severely Trimmed Than For
merly-Odd Tones Combined in Soft Satin
Ribbons and Wings-Toques Narrow and
Long Vei1ings Covered With
Heavy, Sight Destroying Patterns

cally as parrot plumage," are combined
In the soft satin ribbons and silks of
flexible weave which drape some of the
feady-to-wear hats. but hetide the
amateur miliner who attempts to i'm
prove upon these daring combinations. as
the effort is likely to prove a dismal
failure. The woman who makes over
her own hats may safely raise a crown
to the prevailing height. even widen
its brim, but when she tries to copy the
color schemes of Mother Nature she Is
rushing in where angels fear to tread
Pheasants furnish particularly mod
ish wing, as they so perfectly accord
with the present fancy for black and
way. is an eminently practical fashion,
since a chapeau showing the maybe
combination may quite correctly be worn
with a simply made suit or frock of any
shade.
Moreover, a black and white tailored
hat trimmed with wings ribbon is
precisely what is most needed just at
tins time. whether a woman is cheerfully
passing a season of penitence in southern
California, Mexico or Florida or is SOL
EMMY attending morning chapel and aft
ernoon sewing class at her customary
abiding place. The best hats in the
magpie scheme of decoration as Yet
brought forward are of black braid or
hair trimmed solely with clusters of
white quilts wings which lie fatty
against the crown. They are exceedingly
practical for travelling, as they are light
of weight and perfectly Withstand damp
ness. If black directly against the hair
is not becoming. the brim of such a hat
may have a facing Of white braid.
The sailor which is destined to reign
supreme this season differs radically
from the one of last year. Its rolling
brim is a most attractive original and
novel feature. for while revealing the
hair at the sides and back, it perfectly
shades the eyes from the glare of the
sun. The French milliner who designed
the most successful of all spring sailors
brought out model in fine black horse
hair braid with an Notwithstanding of
black satin ribbon arranged in plat
form. Its trimming consists Of a large,
narrow black satin ribbon edged bow of
soft cerise Tagal straw fabric destined
to occupy prominent position in spring
millinery-and a dropping bow of cerise
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

order and shirred onto the inner edge of
the brim.
More latitude is permitted the widow in
the ordering of the gowns to be worn
in the house. II she has d household to
Superintend she needs at least two frocks
of black pongee. preferably made in one
piece on princess lines e she be plump,
and with beted effect if slender. The
skirt may have three deep tucks about
the bottom, the sleeves be similarly fin
ished and long enough to entirely cover
the wrists, and the collar should be high
and absolutely plain Such frock may
quite properly be worn throughout the
day and until the dinner hour. when. if
there are men in the family. the widow
should don a deml-toilet of black net,
soft. dull silk or wolfe. trimmed with
crepe bands and made with a high neck
and long sleeves, unrelieved by anything
in the shape of ornaments.
Cashmere. chiffon cloth and marquiSette
make UP into charming costumes for aft
ernoon house wear or for quiet lunch
con at the home of some very intimate
friend. 4 gown in any of these ma
terials should not be crepe trimmed, as
it will prove useful for various occasions
during the second year of mourning, but
il may be braided in dull silk Soutache
be appliqued with a cut-out pattern
in peaG de sole.
Neck and wrist accessories are of vast
Importance in these days, as they add
so much To the chic appearance of any
costume, but particularly to that of a
person who is wearing mourning. With
a black street suit the widow in the
first stages of her bereavement usually
wears a very high stock and jabot COM
posed wholly of crepe. After six months
these accessories are usually seen in COM
binatiOn of crepe and heavy net and at
the end of year are made entirely
of net. Unless a woman is quite youth
full she does hot wear a mourning col
lar and coat set, but in the house
widows of any age may quite correctly
dress up their cashmere. wolfe veil
ing afternoon gowns with decidedly elab-
crate cuffs of crepe, brussels and maline
and especially for their benefit are posi-
lively fascinating neck bows of trans
parent black fabrics.
The widow who wishes her mourning
outfit TO be beyond criticism should be
extremely careful in the choice of her
shoes and gloves. In these accessories
nothing of a glace order is employed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26
FASHION NOTES AND NOTIONS

and circular shape finished at the top
with a ribbon heading and equipped with
drawstrings. so that they may readily be
adjusted to skirt of any width. The
same idea NAV be followed in the case
of lingerie petticoats, which become
soiled al the bottom long before the tops
require laundering. In the case of wash
materials. however there need not be o
drawString at the upper edge of the
fiounce. as the ribbon-run beading will
answer the same purpose.
Many of the new Ieghorns are faced In
black velvet.
Linens for the coming season are soft
heavy and piable.
Ribbons in silver and gold, also in cop
per. are at hand.
Everything that is offered in Irish lace
is now popular.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

with a broad fluting of black velvet rib
bon and set directly at the front of the
crown so that its feathery tendrils shall
fall partially over the velvet-edged brlm
is an osprey cluster of such huge dinen-
sions that it fairly dominates the costume
OF the Wearer.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26
tII.OR Ell y

\ ILORED hats are
becoming more
and more fash
ionable. 1t is not
remarkable that
this should be the
case since practi-
cal W o m G n of
every class real
iZe that no other
type of headgear
q ite fills it's
place, SO per-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26
ZzZ cX1RU@UA RZ1G@ ~
r%S@ NETT Z1E1cSU1 CID
G2@2zzZ2OLZzQZXZ7YG UzEIR

simplest of lines. 1t is understood that
a woman recently widowed goes upon the
street only because her business affairs
compel her 10 do so, and that her one
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

months when a crepe veil is worn the
hat should be of matching material and
trimmed in the simplest manner possible,
with bands. cordings and trellisinss of
the crinkled ia brio cncircling the crown,
unless the crown is itself of the crush
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

\ sartorial law unalterable as the
laws which governed the Modes and Per-
slams is the one that the tallor-made
suit of the widow shall be built on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

idea is to attract as little attention as
possible. Yet because mourning. while 1t
protects the wearer from indscreet ques-
tions, is always conspicuous the taiiored
suit should be of a frst-class qualty OF
broadcloth. serge, diagonal or whatever
material is seasonabe. Because black
draws the suns rays the spring suit
should be as light as it is possible to
have it, and for that reason mohalr,
permo or cashmere will prove more salts
factory than one of the heavier fabrics
in use FOR coiored or mixed suits for
early spring.
Crepe is no longer used as a trimming
for street costumes, although ii Is the
most salient feature of the young wild
ows apparel, for the acknowledging Veil,
with its broad hem, very nearly touches
the bottom of her walking skirt when
thrown backward, and il usually Is so
worn after the second month of mourning
has expired. From that time until the
end of the first year the widow covers
her face with short veil of plain net.
bordered with an inch-widc band Of
crepe, and this she continues To wear for
just so long as her hats are covered or
merely trimmed with crepe.
Toques and turbans are rarely worn by
a widow in The first stages OF her gflef,
as it is difficult TO adjust the long, heavy
veil over them or 10 throw ii backward
so that il will hang gracefully. More
over very small or closely fitting hat
brings the fea lures and hair into strong
relief and that. of course is something
which, under the circumstances. should
be- avoided.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

Patent leather and kid are tabooed in the
realm of shoes and slippers, winch our
ing tie first year of mourning shouio ne
of cravenette or pelt OF dun hnish-
Suede gloves, of course, do not Snow
either white buttons or Stltchngs, anu
when silk gloves are substituted Tor klu
their wrists should not be embroidered,
although the tops may be crepe piped
if some sort of decoration is desired.
Taffeta petticoats are not correct with
a first mourning costume because OF the
rustling noise made by that sort OF SILK
The Frenchwoman, who is most partlcu-
lar in the matter of her skirts OF every
TYNE. prefers to use peau de sole, as that
material is so soft that even when worn
beneath a silk drop ITS presence - no'
adwart:sed by the cracking sound pecu-
liar to taffeta of any quality. The peau
de sole petticoat is quite as simply hiao7
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-26

with a broad fluting of black velvet rib
bon and set directly at the front Of the
crown so that its feathery tendrlls shall
fall partially over the velvet-edged brim
is an osprey cluster of such huge dirnen-
sions that it fairly dominates the costume
OF the Wearer.
During the long eclipse of the bonnet
the average woman who frankly acknowl-
edged to sixty years or more has been de-
voutly thankful for the toque. Without
this snugIy fitting little shape she must
either have continued TO patiently make
over the bonnet of thirty years ago or
have run the risk of looking ridiculous
under a modern hat. The newest toqueS
are carrying JOY to the hearts of those
women who for seasons past have De
voutly wished that headgear never had
been invented by whichever daughter or
Eve is responsible for the first hat. Long
and narrow and fitting snugly TO the
crown of the head, the new toque o. the
fIoWer-croW order requires merely
strings to become real bonnet. And,
indeed there is suggestion of ties In
the bride of roses which are passed
about the back hair and in the huge
bows of ribbon which garnish the rear
of many of these smart little mats
A touue which will appeal strongly TO
a great many young girls differs radically
from the conventional model both III It's
adjustment and shape More than any
thing else in the realm OF millinery IL
resembles the Scotch Glengarry. so often
worn by quite small children 1t IS
pointed at front and back, has the center
crease in the top and, like the original
from which the idea is copied, IS SET
iauntily toward the left side OF the head
The model imported from Paris is of rose
colored fancy straw, trimmed with three
rows of tiny roses in shades of pink and
gray, thus practically covering the SIDES
OF the crown, and at the back is an up
standing spray of rose IohaSe
Another hat of immensely chic poise Is
in the form OF a small absolutely round
turban This also has a brim OF FANCY
straw, but of dull red matching the tone
of its crown covering of large, fuliy
blown silk roses and an aigrette of wired
doom niece velvet. \ turban of tins one
tone character might readily be neVei-
oped in any fashionable color and In all
black would prove exceptionally smart as
well as useful.
Not content with ransacking the pic
turc galleries of Europe for ideas, the
designers of hats have wandered as lar
afield as the orient. and in their quest
have discovered what proves to be the
ideal theaier hat. The turban OF tne
Turkish woman of rank is reproduced III
a Paul Poiret model of bright blue crepe
de chine, trimmed with bullion bahas anu
fringe. When properly adjusted it hts
closely to the head as though actually
swathed about it and then pinned, the
fringed end being run through the mann
fold and allowed 10 fall over the left
ear. The hair of course, is dressed very
low at the back and arranged in loosely
c1lrIed waves about the brow.
MANY Of the street turbans have fab
rio crowns a fact which more than ever
commends the shape TO the women who
believe in making a last seasons hat
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1910-06-15

1 had come 10 Do Indispensable To tn
PEOPLE. so nc sent Joseph Bull. latel'
deceased by stage Go California will
| instructions Go buy an The paper h
could, charter stages ana send II for
ward to Utah, travelling day and night
lie returned with mis- FIRST load just IL
time to save the paper from suspend
ing publication, ana the sheets OF pa
per the stage brought in from tn
west were used to inform the peopl.
that the invading army was at thei
borders on the east More trials fol
lowed. for as the troops approached
10 was decided that the newspape
plant must be removed Ia a place o
safety by that time II had two presses
They were loaded in wagons and sen
south. one over 100 miles TO Fillmore
auothcr SIN further on 10 Pnrowau
and from these distant points The
News was printed for tho next seyera
months.untll the troops passed through
salt Lake 10 camp Floyd and Deac'
was restored
ORIGINAL HOME OF NEWS
u may he Of interest to know tina
the original home Of the paper was 10.
small adobe building on the old ioi
occupied bS The News for 50 MANI
wears. Just on the eastern corner Of thi
Hotel Utah. nov going up. The build
Ing was used as mint and IL wa
there that much Of the gold brough
from California was melted into coin
The proprictV of "a newspaper beint
housed in q mint is Nery evident iI
must have been very satisfactory
the newspaper. as FOR the mint, his
tory does not record how long IL sur
vived the advent OF its neighbor.
FIRST ADVERTISERS.
As might be supposed. the earlies
issues of The News are not burdenee
with advertisements
Naturally the first advertiser in the
tirst issue Was the paper Itself and
seems TO have done hourishiug bus
ness selling copies 10 the california gold
seekers. al D. cents per COPY. or at
cents, with the Insertion ~ their names
place Of residence, time of arrival anc
leaving Groups of 20 people were givei
81 rate of go cents per copy. Anothc
advertisement In the FIRST issue. appesl
90 tho people % bring u the office iiOui
wheat corn meal butter chez 80. tai
low and pork In exchange FOR subscrlp
tious These articles were used to plt
on the men. ard thc tailow was madt
into candles With which the nccessar
night work was done \ pioneer nd
tertIser was Ben Holiday. the famou
proprietor ~ the Honaday stages which
ran from thc Missouri TO the Pacific
Holiday q Warner conducted n stor0
ln salt Lake and advertised llDeraiii
when their wagon trains arrived. anr
when the new shipments ~ good
would he opened Another OF his uniqu
advertisements. b. that letters would b..
taken for delivery Co Hny point In ID
east az so cents per letter The Warp
Springs bath hpuSo first appears in ~
Advertising columns 200 1850. Farley '
Pratt advcrtlSes the Golden Pass new
road through thc npuntaius which hf
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1910-06-15


| N M X. chairman ana b'HbeHieH
NH IL may SURPRISE some of you
WI a. p,o,.. inst b,,,. old tho art
Il
- ,,i. i,,,,,t,,,, t.o, AZ
ferrod one week I'm the 18th inst IL
-, - -. -, 49,. -.
e"u'" nave "''" 'u'" ''''o
| ant means Of celebrating the siNtieth
| anniversary of the paper which have
| - -. =, r,,,.,,.,,,, g.. =, 40, an
| u'' '''''' 70 ,'i ~ vas VI"
| June TO- looo that. number one VOL
| unc one of the Dcscret News was Is.
s,,,,t o. tb, ,,,,id aud an tbst d,to
! mat advertising had l's piI'h III 'he
| state
J II niay bc uc,ys TO some Of my hear
| 49,. o., t.,,n tbat p,lrbe,p youns WAS
/ 49,. r,,i ,,i,',oa,. or tni,rralisr, in t-tab
/ nm. 49, ,,,.,,i 49, ,..,,,,,.,.d an ,b,
/ - W. H.. nttss,,,,i in tSts ID.
/ ,| 1ri',,, -, N,,,,,.., 1,o
va - pi,,,.Ilitt ~
a,"' '"I-' n' 80
l n"N l'a''"s, p',' N ~
t"pt. Cue on WV ~ ~ '''." w.
on" 'U"t 'i"-''' ~ Pl"'us' l""'
ana nn'es rom W'1,'t ''uai tera 10
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1910-06-15
PROSPECTUS
DESEREIN NEWS

Att1To--ISu AND Liberty
We propose TO publish a small
weekly sheet, as large as cur lo-
cal Circumstances viii permit, TO bS
called eDcsercf Ntses" designed
originally to record the pass
ing events. .of our State, and ~
connection, refer to the arts apd
sciences. embracing general
cation, medicjne. law. DIVING
niestic and political cconZ
every thing that may
our observation, which,
TO promote The best N
fare. pleasure and ain
our fellow citizcns.
We hold ourse.ve3
to the highest Cou1
our inrptions. and
Court Of equity for
When we speak, "
tree.y, without reg
party, and when,
we err. let HIM wi
open, correct Us in
l.e shall receive
ward.
We shall ever take n
communicating foreign
ne have opportunity: in
couaniunitations from ou1
At home and abroad AT
ornaments for the Mead
our poets and poctesscs.
The FIRST MURDER may d.
pccfed as carly IL Jung as sur
scriptions viii wareeWE waiting
the action 'of 900 subscribers
Terms, 6'nonths, 81, so; iaoi
,.dbiy 10 advance.
Single copy. IS cents.
Advertising, 81 50 per square
lines, and 50 each succeeding Ia
sertoh 81 for half square. or s
lines.
TRAVELLERS AND EAlcRANTs
2s cents per copy, with The iuscr
son OF their names, place Of resi-
dcNce, tine oil arrive sJai IL 4a'si
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1910-06-15
Three Score Years of Progress

Starting Unpretentious Affair The Deeret News Keeps
Up Its Stride Leading Newspaper Of the West-ts His
tory and Those Who Made It,