Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-12-21

plans every garment made in her estab-
lishment but in the height OF the season
the fashioning of her designs is entrusted
entirely 70 her assistants. Sc the woman
whose orders are placed in the between
season" period usually finds the finishing
OF her frocks attest to the fact.
The style feature which seems to be agit-
ating the feminine mind most at present
IL the raised waistiine. The adoption Of
this feature, in so far as one-piece and
princess costumes are concerned, was de-
cided upon last summer. II is the change
in coats and separate skirts that seems 20
perplex milady. The leading modistes with
out exception have set the stamp OF APP
prevail upon this new feature as they very
wisely forsee its use is a certainty--a GER
tainty because it is universally becoming.
A Word About COrsetinE.
But the change is so radical that a per-
sonal demonstration is necessary 20 con
vince most women that the style produces
good lines. The day Of the wasp-like waist
is passe-heaven be praised land natural
lines have supplanted the grotesque figure
OF yeAteryear. To the casual observer the
change might appear to result from a re-
duction Of the hips. 1t is generally con-
eeded that the present advanced ideas In
corseting have reduced the hips somewhat,
but the really appreciable difference lies
in the change OF the waist measurement
Lacing one waist was the outcome OF an
erroneous and barbarous conception Of
beauty, and American women deserve
congratulation for presiding at the OBJ
sequies Of this custom. The up-to-date
woman, in corseting her figure. retains, as
near as possible. her natural waist meas
urement, for she has learned from expert
ence that this gives her far more graceful
lines-in short, 1t imparts 10 any figure
the straight. slender lines which are so
pleasing 70 the eye. The raising Of the
waistline really has a tendency 10 deceive.
1t creates a sort OF optical Illusion when
the eye reaches the hip line, and conveys
an impression Of slenderness.
SILK Coat suit.
! This new feature in construction Is very
attractively presented in the first figure.
| This little coat has the waistline broken
/ by the center-front panel, but the becom-
/ ing qualities OF the change In the waist
line is at once apparent.
Natter blue peau de sole was the ma
terial from which this costume was fash
Toned. The broadening Of the sailor collar
/ In front added an original touch TO this
feature The facing of this collar was
made Of black panne satin and this same
material was also used for the cuffs. The
collar facing was edged with a row Of
small buttons and loops Of the peau de
/ sole, and these same buttons trimmed the
outer edges OF the panel from the belt 70
the lower edge. The closing was affected
with two large clover leaf frogs. The skirt
Z WIS In five cores, with shaped overlapping
sections at the lower part Of the side
cores, Just above these sections there was
a fiat insert Of the black panne satin
Peau de sole buttons edged the front panel
1 from the waist 70 the tops Of the lower
side sections, and there buttons also out
lined the upper edge Of the overlapping
pieces. The hat worn with this smart little
| trotteuT was an adaptation Of the trl-
eornered military shape II was made OF
the black satin, had an edge facing OF
white silk and was simply trimmed with
! q black aigrette. II was a severely plain
ehapeau, but had evidently been selected
with care, for Il seemed just the hat for
1 the costume.
skirts seen in Paris
/ Even In face OF its apparently universal
acceptance there seem 20 be some women
who have not wholly decided upon the
] adoption Of the narrow skirt. An interest
ing sartorial review, just published In
I Paris includes an account OF how one OF
the famous houses on the Rue de Ia Paix
has met with deplorable failure in at
tempting 70 launch a wide skirt So Il
/ seems that the woman who insists upon