New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-03-13

Paris, March 3. 1917.
These last days OF winter women whose
interest lies IN chiffons spend a couple OF
hours twice a day sitting In the vast re-
ception rooms Of the great couturieres
gazing with unfagging interest at the
endless procession of manikns in spring
and summer gowning as they pass and re-
pass with gait and gestures best adapted
TO showing the most beautiful points Of the
gowns they are displaying at the moment.
In dressy costumes a change of line is
easily apparent in increased fulness. gath
cred founces and double and triple skirts.
The ornamental belt so long absent is
strongly in evidence--a bit Of brightness
but yelled, as nearly all brightness is now
a-dayS, under some sort Of transparency.
4 bit of lace, of embroidery or a strip of
black mousseline de sole, handled like rib
bon. covers it at one side, turning over to
fully reveal IL az the other. Perhaps the
greatest surprise of the season is the ex-
IRENE decorative quality of this accessory
On coats belts Of vanished leather are
used. trimmed oddly with pipngs and
bands of the silk that trims the gown On
a coat or fine woollen material in black and
white check the belt, of black Vanished
leather. was piped and circled with tiny
folds of poppy red silk. Pipings of the red
also IN the finish of the revers collar and
cuffs, and there were large. fiat. cloth COW
cred buttons, embroidered in red and black
A tailored costume of dark blue serge
seen on an opening day, was immensely
attractive, with a skirt in two etases the
sfrt OF the coat forming third The coat
was pelted with black satin twisted into
cla boratlon; there were narrow revers faced
with black satin and all the edges were
piped with 1t. Somewhere in the front of
the coat, admirably placed, were touches of
brilliant emerald green
For the greater part Of the dav skirts are
worn extremely short and even with their.
increased fulness they contrive to preserve
q slender silhouette. The short skirts of
cloth tailored costumes have an exceeding
~ scant appearance, Immediately dissipat-
ed. however, In movement by cleverIv con-
cealed inner Dleats. \ characteristic trim
ming on such costumes is bit of wildly
toned Oriental embroidery, set to mark
corner, TO peep from under a black trans
parency, or to be elimpsed on the edge of
the lining as the coat falls back in the
wind.
Skirts OF white gowns are oddly trimmed
with band II colCred lace or embroidery
While the cor sage is left unadorned. Coarse
russian en1brold cry, done in primitive
co!ors-bright green, red AMI blue-smartly
adorns tailored costumes OF string colored
linen, woven as coarsely as hop sacking
Large fiat buttons. covered with black
velvet. with heavy cord loops. were con-
sricuous as trimming on a swageer tall
ored costume OF black basket woven silk.
Gathered 10 a round belt line, tho skirt
dragged evenly on the floor To the depth
Of twenty inches 1t was hemmed with the
same material. its edge turning under in
double fold. Just below the buttons an
peared. set in clusters OF three and crclirg
the skirt. The little coat. half long. had its
slightly fun skirt faced more narrowly and
edged with smaller buttons. while more
buttons marked the edges of the fiat. round