New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1910-07-03
Tied-:,1 .|kirf Disappearing
Not Even Dressmakers' Models Wear II. Dut
Many Gowns Are Close Toward the Hem.

r.,,,1,o,dsrv or lace or combination of two
or more kinds Of trimming, and the gum"
over which the gown is worn VIII contain
decoration sufficient to Glorify this simple
O., r,,,ept info ~, eyaI1,,,. of extravaganza
bsndicraft. The prettiest item OF the cos
t,,r,e is the scarf, and the latest whim is 10
have this attached TO the bodice OF the dress
So that its careful dra ping may not De diS-
turbed. II is put on with the care ana IN
finite pinning and arranging which women
of the middle of the last century used 10 eA-
pend on their priceless Cashmeres.
a month or six weeks ago the black
scarf. lined with white and made OF liberty
satin. became a great success. 1t is OF
course. in Paris. already out OF date, anu
although we see q good many scarfs or
black satin or black gauze the lining Is
of some color to correspond with the
dress. The Princess Ghika. formally the
celebrated Lame de Pougy. made her DEBUT
as A dame du monde az Chantilly on sum
dav- An Interesting item Of her costume
WAS q scarf of black mousseline de sole.
edged with sable and fastened on the
shoulder and again in the back with
cluster Of sable tails. Her gown was blue
r1ousseline de sole in several tones, as IL
one shade. of blue were laid over another,
and the skirts were slightly training d
fashion that is coming in again ON fher
head she wore the famous hat. the one tfat
figured in the incident at St German "ileh
Prince Ghika so resented the criticism OF
2 passerby that the fracas which followed
led 20 the appearance Of both men In the
,o,i,s co71rt The hat which created so
,,,,,ch excitement few weeks ago is quite
modest to-day as compared with later
claims on public attention, and 1t Is also
extremely becoming to the Princess Ghlka
male ana handsome features 1t is made OF
black satin. and falls low over the face
with a friu OF delicate white lace
! have seen two draped skirts which are
10 make their appearance Sunday, at the
Grand Prix One gown has long uhoel
skirt OF French blue satin. and over this
Is a tlnic of black mousseline de sole eosed
with sable. The draping OF the skirt IS IN
front over the left knee. where the fuineSs
* pulled up under a band of black sa'in
,,,,cb after the manner of a skirt that
,,o-er,e--ire wears in Faust. The otner shlfl
sho1,,s a., oyer,lress of black Chantiliy over
,,,,i,a satir On the bottom of the overdress
&c q wide band of pale blue satin, Win
line of sable on its upper edge. ana TINS -
drained about the figure and puiieo up III q
hig bunchy bow behind.
anv one who attended the ASCOT races
IN England last week finds an unusual Gull
+rast between the big English races anu
tho bie French event. Every well oresseu
,1-o-,,on AZ Ascot wore black or the tints OF
gray and violet permissible to comPn-
,,,e,ra-v mourning. AS the race week 'oon
r,ace the week before the order 1or eene'oi
mourning was rescinded. even the huihoieSt
o,-endants AT the meeting were garoeo III
black While this gave a general inlpres
sion o< gloom. the women in the royai en-
closure were SO beautifully goWned ana
exnressed SO we'll the subtles nuances OF
baIf-rnourning that one could only resai
,bern with admiration. Those whose posi-
ton at court necessitates full mourning loi
another six months wore all black cos
TUNES but more showed black mixed Win
white, or delicate gray and mauve Lazy
Marlborough wore trailing gown OF black
crepe inset with panels exquisi'eiy eNi
hrofdered Accompanying this was huse
nic-,,-e' hat of black tulle and dull aigrettes'
and the only spot of color in her costume
r.s her famous rope of pearls. f. r M.