East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-24
The Smart New Clothes

New York.-Whatever their eccen-
tricity Of line or trimming, it cannot
be said OF the newest autumn modes
that they are lacking in diversity, or
that they are monotonous. The new
tailored frocks are strikingly smart.
In cut, in decorative treatment and
in their general treatment they are
quite apart from those of last year.
Nor this must not be taken to mean
that there is no call for the plain |
tailored suit with its straight, French |
back coat, for it is to be presumed
that 1t will always have a place in the |
reckoning, and it has an added value
now. p,
There Is nothing smarter--or per-
haps as smart, as the touch of black
this year, but fashion cries out for
novelty which is expressed in trim
mings of sombre tone, usually the
darkest shade in the color scheme of
the dress itself.
Serges, Panamas, broadcloths and
worsteds of all kinds are to- be very
much In vogue for tailored suits for
general wear, but the dressy costume
will frequently be expressed in satin
and the exquisite new velvets. There
Is no restriction as to weave. Plain
ones have strong rivals In the mix
lures and stripes, while. as for color,
II Is more than ever a matter Of in
dividual preference. Satin tailor
mades are more than repeating their
success of last season. And the wool
manufacturer jealous for his pre-
serves, has thought out kindred
fabric more seasonable in texture and
almost II not quite as glossy OF face
and soft and thin OF weave Several
new materials of the kind have come
out, indeed, as a result of the wide
spread use of satin in the wardrobe.
One of them is of the finest wool in
the loveliest colors and has a nap that
is clipped as close and as silky as
panne. Another fabric with fine wool
back has a silk face of almost panne
gloss. Aand these are to be the most
luxurious foundations for fall and
winter tailormades. All the dark rich
cloth colors and the brighter tones
are to be had in them. The satins as
well as all the other dress materials
are as soft and thin as ever. Two
toned effects among the silks and sat
ins are prevalent and also the cham
eleons Brocades for the most elabo-
rate costumes are out in the richest
patterns. Ponpadour effects on mar
quisette grounds are liked for eve-
ming and these are rivalled by gauZes
in an endless array of spangled and
beaded patterns. Chepe de Chene OF
beautiful texture brocaded with velvet
is among the sumptuous weaves. The
costumes which show the greatest
novelty in coloring just now are in
mulberry tone with a little more red
than purple in the shade.
French coats that are plays on his
toric shapes are being used in cos
tunes for dressy purposes. The bis
revers are plentiful and so, too, arr
the collarless necks finished will
brading. embroidery and the like
There is no change as yet in th'
sleeves and none will be known unit
after the fall styles are finall,
launched. The rage for the kimoh'
sleeve has reached the ready-to-wear
but unlike the old-time rule, this ma.
not kill the fashion. The manufac
turers of today are as alert as th
heads of exclusive dressmaking es
tablishments themselves and with rep
resentatives in Paris writing by ever,
mail. and one might almost say. tele
graphing by every cable, 1t is useles
for the exclusive dressmaker to evel
try to keep a style from common us
once il is worn outside his shoT
Alertness, the watch cry of all mer
camille life today, seems to be doubl
so with everything pertaining to fash
ions. Little the woman gowned Il
fabrics mode for their exclusive us
think when alighting at the opera
theater or other public function of tn
crafty American buyer Of fabrics
the manufacturer of garments, VIII
spots her costume at glance and VIII
will have the material, II 1t is new
under way within twenty-four hour
and on the New York counters
twice as many days If not less.
So the kimono sleeve, kimono n
longer by actual fact, but japanese
flavor. is going to play large part
the wardrobes of wearers of ready
wears for the next weeks, II N
months. Sleeves have been uncon