East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-01-20
FASHION LETTER BY
CATHERINE PAYZANT.

New York, Jan 19.-There is quite
a decided difference both in style and
material between the morning and
afternoon costume for the street as
we'll as the business and the dressy
costume.
The materials considered correct in
the morning are to be found among
the rough, shaggy serge, chevoits and
homespuns. while the smooth cloths
are more used for afternoon wear.
The business suit, according . to oc-
casion being either of the heavy or
rough surfaced. In design the morn
ing and business suit is always of the
short plain skirt variety. The long
skirt is worn only in the afternoon
and even then many women will
! choose the short skirt. 1t has been
found so very practical and comfort
able that except when travelling in
ones own motor or carriage or for
an occasion needing an elaborate
gown, one sees fewer long trailing
| gowns than ever before.
One of the most popular materials
to be used either in combination or
as a trimming is velvet. In both
black and colored it is considered ex-
tremely smart. 1t is also shown in
many qualities, from the velveteens,
which have attained to most satis-
factory finish and color, to corduroys
and the real velvets.
good deal of discretion must be
used in choosing styles for the differ
ent materials When the tunic, dou-
| BILE skirt or draped effects are cho-
sen. the most suitable materials
are fine broadcloths and thin mate
rials, while the straight effects look
best developed in materials of con-
siderable body.
For the street one of the best liked
modes is that Of the Russian blouse,
called the "mujik" blouse. The cos
sack hat is too we'll known to need
any words, but the influence on the
! promised spring suits seems to tend
in the way toward the Volga's shores.
For the more dressy effects in the
evening at the theater and in the
ball room the Empress Eugene styles
are too to be seen in all their dainti-
ness. Perhaps no period of history
has given more ideas or prettier ones
the Second Empire. .
An idea that is carried out by some
women with much cleverness is that
of choosing a definite color scheme,
to which the full winter or spring
wardrobe viii ladhere By this means
| the women declare that they can get
more variety and the ACCESSORIES @.
dress will serve greater number OF
needs.
A second idea is that of having two
skirts to one jacket, just as some
years ago women had two suits to
the one skirt. One of these skirts
will be long and en- train. rather well
trimmed, while the second will be
plain, short and straight in lines. A
further change viii be added by the
different sets of cuffs and collars; one
set will be for fur, another of hand
some lace and another of marabout
and ribbon. These with different hats
will make quite the change sought for
Although the original of this idea was
a velvet gown, black broadcloth
would be a better choice as velvet is
more noticeable and better remem-
bered than cloth; moreover the color
must be unobstructive and dark to
fulfill dts purpose.
/ A woman who will spend the great
er part of the winter in New York
state capital has carried out these
ideas quite effectively An elegant
| gown of green broadcloth was chosen
for the dressy afternoon wear. The
skirt was slightly full and hung in
straight lines with two rows of gray
skunk fur The Russian blouse was
extended by a skirt and also finished
with band. of skunk around the
| neck. The belt was a heavily stitched
affair that passed under the fur. The
sleeves were full decorated at the
| shoulders, the cuffs and with two
rows between with bands of fur.
This woman had chosen as her col
or scheme for the winter blue and
green with accessories of black, mode
shades and coffee colored laces. A
| dinner gown of black chiffon over
green silk was made in the style of
the Empress Eugene, was ornament
ed with three scanty flounces, one of
| lace, one of fringe and one of black
satin. The waist opens over a chemi-
settle of black lace, and the tightly
drawn girdle completed the bodice
An evening gown was of coffee col
ored chiffon made over a silk Of the
same shade. The skirt was designed
in the tunic mode with a rounded
/ front, edged with band of silk en-
| broidered with green. over the
/ shoulders and round the waist was
/ band Of this embroidered silk brought
| up high in the front, disclosing the
/ skirt extended in princess fashion in
| to the waist. The square neck was
| filled in with cream-colored lace. The
! sleeves were laid in fine gathers into
! the armhole, falling in two points at
/ the bottom, below which was a lace
sleeve that came just below the ell
I bow.
{ For morning wear there was a blue
/ serge provided, with green velvet
/ vest, black fur collar and cuffs Of fox
| fur. The hat was a black fur turban
trimmed with a blue and green wing
( The skirt was made plain and full at
( The bottom, but fitted very closely at
the hips The front panel. appar-
entity set in, was decorated with
groups Of black buttons and loops of
six as though held. thus together
Z