davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25
#bR 8RZE T lASHON a',a F )RNOL TYkzgRza&I|
Fashion, and the Tariff
Will the Barrier of the Customs Force Ameri-
cans to Create Their Own Modes!

THE tariff is going to do for American
dress what our alleged spirit of indepen-
dence has never been able To accomplish.
said a student of the modes who has Just
come back to her native land after some
years of residence in the fashion capital
From time to time. she continued. we
have heard a great deal of talk about the
creation OF native fashions Some authori-
ties assure us that it is already being done
that American women never wear the
Paris models without adaptation and that
they impose their taste on Paris. and thus
shape the course of fashion. Others admit
that we have in the past followed Paris
pretty blindly. but they say that henceforth
we will do it no more.
las a matter of fact. Paris still leads US.
even by the nose. Witness our adoption or
the atr0cous hobble skirt The DANES OF
the Partisan beau monde never looked upon
the hobble anything but whim of the
moment and laughed in their sleeves when
we took it seriously. We bought it-poor,
deluded creatures.-from clever Paris sales
women who. not wanting a lot of 'frights'
on their hands. baited their hook with COM
pliments which we swallowed. hook and all.
parading down the Champs Elysees serene
In the thought that we We're arrayed IN
Yes there can be no doubt that we
follow Paris. but our days of tuteiaSe are
ma ssing away and it is neither our good
taste nor our independence that has done
it. 1t is the customs
american women are not buying gowns
in Paris 8 they used to. and dreSsnahers
are not importing as many models lhey
can't for the duty makes the prices pronlo-
tive One New York woman told me that
she had spent over $40 for hats this sea
son. I sasped when she added that she
had only five What must be the inquire
when it comes to frocks? Obviously only
the ultra-rich can afford prices of this KIND
Times are not what they used to be IN
Paris for the miliner and dressmakeT Inc
good old days are no more. when, atter
the exodus of the American tourist, Dig
houses glanced at their profit and loss COZ
umns and smiled with pleasure at the
glowing figures of the profits Americans
who live in Paris can buy models at mere
song out of season. A dressmaker on the
Place Vendome asked me why L never
noueht gowns Of her, and | held up my
hands-'But, madam. your prices are De-
ycrd me Come to me at the end of the
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

In previous article the Budget mas
spoken of rest as means of repair 10
day the advice relating to rest deals win
rest as a preparation for sudden Hemer-
gency calls
Life may have been perhaps little more
irving than usual, and fatigue may be al
ready claiming her due, when-heigh, pres
to, There is sudden need to look one s
best 1t may be for q social claim, on
which much depends. or it may be a bust
ness interview, in which much more is in
volved. But one is aware of looking ones
worst Just when ii is imperative that all
ones resources, natural and acquired
should be at the top notch of perfection.
The one thing to do is at once TO see just
how much time remains before the public
appearance, and then to use that time
wisely.
A fifteen minutes nap, protected from
anxiety by the promise of some trust
worthy person to one doesn't sleep all
night is the first consideration. And here
she who keeps emergency CALI bureau
drawers is blessed indeed. If sewing,
glove cleaning and the like have to be
done in rush. goodby TO reposei
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

Assuming that the gown and all acces-
sories are In readiness, and the nap in
dulged in the next thing is a nerve
bath" This should consist of two or three
minutes immersion in delightfully."- warm,
but not hot water, followed by a cold
shower or spray! Don't shirk this-it is
the more important of the two. A fresh
ening and quickening of al the faculties
will follow.
After the bath rest again Now is the
time for sister, mother or friend to come
and help you Have cup of tea If you
like brought to you as you rest-though
a cup of good bullion Will really be bet
ter A dainty sandwich. watercress or
lettuce may accompany the tea; a bit or
crisp toast or bullion.
Now you have rested enough 10 begin
the rest of the work. If you have a maia
or some friend who viii assist you. have
YOUR hair brushed while you massage your
face and neck. OF course. II your halr
has TO be eurled or subjected to any kind OF
kinkmakers you had better brush II before
the bath.
At dinner, If a dinner forms part OF the
occasion which calls for special eiforts
to be charming and intelligent. il is well 10
be rather abstemous; as the blood Is need
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25
TIE Beauty Bud6ef

ed in the brain it is well not to divert too
much of it to the digestive organs. II you
know that anything is likely to disagree
with you, avoid it. When nothing is de-
pendent on the state of your nerves, IN
dulge, if you will. But If YOU wish to be
mentally, as well as physically, a your
best, you will not take any risks. You
may indulge in your demf-tasse, for that
will stimulate YOU pleasantly
OF course, if there is more than an hour
or two for preparation it will be we'll to
lie down fully undressed. for half, a least.
of the afternoon. Then, too, an hour s
Iounging can follow the nerve bath. II
possible a trained nurse can be called in
to give a complete, even electric, mas
sage Or, some may derive more benefit
from a spin in the fresh air. The perfect
preparation would be the spin. the sleep.
the bath, the lounging and the massage.
But not many spend the whole day in
anticipation of one evening.
Perhaps some readers of the Budget
may recall Mrs. Hodgson Burnett's Max
ing of Marchioness'? In the sequel to
the story ('The Methods of Lady Walder
hurst'). Emily. exhausted by the strain of
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

season. said she. giving me a knowing
little look I took madameis advice. ana
for each OF the last three years I've al
ways found that I could afford one more
frock than the previous year. As my roek-
etbook has remained the same. the change
must be in the prices of the dressulskers
\ dressmaker well known In Paris con-
fded to me after the present tariff laws
went into effect that her sales 20 Ameri-
cans had fallen off 90 per cent
American milIiners and dressmakers. ars
daily having IT borne in upon them that ths
customs are putting imported models be-
yond their reach, They run over TO Paris.
to be sure. 10 look about and make mental
notes and they buy hurried sketches from
artists who go about with them to the
openings But they do not buy as they
used 10. and the time is bound to come
when they will he forced TO create their
own fashions. with pefEaps general idea
of what is en- segle in Paris, taking their
inspiration. that is. from the same period
They will have to study costumes and deivs
in old print shops. as the Parisians do
so far. since my return rom the other
side I've been able 70 unearth only one
little woman who has adopted the Partisan
method of taking prints and modifying
them to the present mode to suit the
wearer Her establishment is modest. bur
L predict there is great future for this
little woman. Paris has many OF thes.
what one might call creative milliners and
dressmakeTs. and we have only good copy
lists There are some here who understand
lines I'm told. but, if so, how could they
thrust the hObble on a world of self-re-
specting females? The rage of the hobole.
regardless of shape or line. has been al
most hystericaI in this country When
left America il was in the throes of the
Merry Widow sailor. I return to find
American fernninity mlincing about in what
the French have termed 'outre' or 'conrae
cOcotte.'
I'VE American women consider ourselves
vastly more clever than our sisters in other
lands. Why don't We show the politicians
who forced US to extravaganza and SNUG
Cling by the present customs laws that ws
are more clever than they anticipated? Let
us send women TO Paris 20 study prints.
steep ourselves in Partisan ideas. cultivate
our taste for color and the customs Will
no more be a hobgohisu to give us sleepless
nights
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25
Paris, December IA.


Al this season OF the year the dress
makers open their salons to the seekers
~ bargains. Generally these gowns are the
failures Of the present season, with the
1ss- overs of the season before. In either
case the bargains are less than appears
from their fascinating surface qualities
Worn every day for months during the
exhibition hours, the gowns often stand in
great need OF cleaning. and this process
e ant 20 leave them q mass of rips and
sears as. planned for models, they are put
,osether tn the first place With the smallest
amount o. work. and the least number of
stitches possible. But even under these
circumstances a patient worker with taste
.ul fingers can repair these damages with
2 quite satisfactory result.
Women who occupy themselves during
Lent with preparations for their summer
wardrobe will be glad to know that simple
straight-hung skirts. slightly fulled 10 a
round waist line with a bertha. fichu or
.saby'' corsage, and short sleeves are the
general lines that are expected to prevail
next summer
Soft. coarse, semi-transparent cotton
and linen materials. with an excessive
quantity Of lace and embroidery q jour
srd TaiStQ Designs. VIII compose Wt1aI Is
called washable gowns The highest chic
IS To have the gown. coat or blouse en-
hroi6ered after il is cut and fitted. When
this Is not possible cunning use of fancy.
open stitches. in combination with narrow
trojI-tror. accomplishes wonders in the
way Of concealing the joining of the decora-
tinn TO the material Of gown. In this
country. where hand work is cheap square
Of h7rt Loo
are applied with admirable results to the
finished costume: attached by thick. close,
over and ever stitches with heavy white
linen thread. the material is then cut out
beneath. and the raw edged turned back
and sewed fat. When the linen or muslin
Of the costume is different shade of
white from the lace or embroidered motifs
the effect is enhanced. Motifs of Madeira
embroidery used as trimming on white.
gowns. laid over lining of pale pink blue
tr green hatiste, makes an adorable sum-
Tler toilette with a wide sash matching
The lining in color
More severe in outline Will be costumes
with plain, straight skirt. set without
fulness to the belt. and worn with a null
blouse and short Eton jacket of the ma
teriai Cf the skirt This little Eton jacket
of past seasons. how pretty ii is and how
becoming And to wear with white or
celored costumes this little garment will be
made in black and night blue silk and
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25
The Season Of Bareoins
II Is Time Full of Danger for the Inexperi
enced Buyer-Spring Forecasts.

more, trimmed with fiat lace collar and
wide upturning lace Guns on short sleeves.
Lace, even real lace is enriched with
coiored silk stitches and stitches Of metal
threads. distinctly ornamental when an
piled to the trimming OF a gown. hut a
collars and cuffs the lace left unadorned is
better.
vase women who look ahead will finish
TINS season their tunic gowns OF frail
oiaphanous stufs. They are likely to be
quite cur of the running next season. In
oeed. the best gowned women OF the present
seaSon have already discarded them for
gowns made entirely of pretty soft. bro
caded silks, trimmed with a little lace on
the sleeves and corsage, and fashioned after
The aiiurinsly simple lines of the gowns
Worn by TIE women of the Revolution.
AHurlnSly simple, truly Tempting mex
per1enced people TO copy them their de-
SPAR and undoing. With ample folds and
plenty of applied trimming, bad work and
faults of fitting are easily disguised but
cniy master hands can achieve the straight
simple lines of skirt and little, round
necked. corsage. with its three-seamed back
stretching into short basques.
For the present however, the tunic even
ing gown remains in vogue, and the sweet
est and most captivating color effects are
gained by hanging. daringly. strong
color over another, equally daring, resulting
in subdued tones positively original. The
edges are trimmed with bead work done
by hand the material, artleSs adorn-
ment reminding one of the work of prin-
itive people. Rarely lovely was a tunic
costume OF taupe gray silk voile hung
over bright cesse silk; the tunic was deep
ly frinsed with steel beads on its lower
edge and on the short mandarin sleeves,
and il was belted with a 4-inch band Of
steel embroidery, done on cerise ribbon.
closing invisibly. A charming finish was
added to the belt by steel bead fringe
pointing in the middle of the back and
front TO depth of 10 or u inches.
The favorite velvet costume is appear
ing in models practical and comforta BILE
that they are to be copied in heavy
silk and fine cloth for the first spring
days. to be worn with wide scarfs of velvet
and fine fur.
Among the crowd of well gowned women
al the Ritz tea room the other day several
wore velvet costumes made with high
Empire waist line, short skirt, comfort
ably scant and little corSage. with round
neck and short, open sleeves. Generally
the chemsette was of black voile laid over
colored trimming, embroidery or a. plain
tinted under corsage. also of transparent
stuff, and all were sashed with black satin.
NJ. A. F.
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

from the mud by the kindness evidently
of some good Christmas spirit. the process
sion set up its tree and sang Its songs.
There were eight old Christmas carols from
Brittany and England. and the Greenwich
children's very own" carol. written for
md dedicated TO them. Then the play be-
gan. The postman brought Santa the let
ters which the sick children had written
10 him asking for dolls and picture books
Santa read them and laughed as hearty a
laugh as very little girl could manage.
Then the fairy danced in and helped Santa
distribute the presents to the sick children
after which Santa and all his helpers joine1
in a folk dance round the Christmas tree,
while their little hands tapped a feeble ae-
compartment on the bed covers
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25
CHRISTMAS UNDER DIFFICULTIES

In spite of the fact tnat Mrs " A.
Lopez house mother at the home for Span
sh women maintained by the Church of
Our Lady of Guadaloupe, at No 25l West
18th street. fell downstairs and was nearly
killed last Wednesday. Christmas was ceIe-
brated according TO schedule at the institu-
tioE yesterday. All the furniture was
dragged from the front room of the fiat
and a big tree was put in its place II
boomed with tin soldiers and toy pianos
which had been specially requested by the
children Of the ,neighborhood, and In
mCre obscure place were two hundred
baskets. filed with many chicken din
nerS for the poor of the ueighbnrhood
Covered with patches and HOT water bor.
ties. Mrs Lopez directed ali the prepara
tions and made bags for the tree and II
was with difficulty that she was prevented
with the decorations.
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

under the direction of Sidney Levy Dane
ing began shortly before midnight
The Consumers League of New York
will hold its annual meeting on the after
noon of January 81, at the Ethical Culture
Society's building
Mrs Frederick Nathan is going to take
charge OF the next meeting of the New
York Equal Suffrage League, which will
b4. held at the Hotel AstoF on January o.
and has decided to make it a suffrage-and-
the-stage afternoon. Among those who
will assist her will be Annie Russell. Lena
Ashwell. Marie Tempest, Mary Shaw. Con
stance Collier, Anne Wynne. Amelia Bing-
ham, Beatrice Forbes Robertson and Vida
Sutton.
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25
SPICUOUS FOOTGEAR.

With the style of skirt now fashionable
the feet of the fair sex are generally sufti-
ciently in evidence, even when they are
most modessly dressed Strange TO say,
some women have adopted style of foot
Gear that makes them doubly conspicuous.
With black street costumes they wear
walking boots with white or tan upperS
and black patent leather foXines. The
biack leather makes the light color above
particularly noticeable by separating ii
from the neutral tint of the pavement.
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

the wedding ceremony and its subsequent
reception, retires to her room to prepare
for the wedding Journey
Lock the door. Jane she directs her
devoted maid. You know just how much
time YOU can dress me in. Can | lie fat
for five minutes lille you bathe my head
with eau de cologne?" That five minutes
was very wisely employed.
FRANCES HARMER
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

.. tho sneakers will be Mrs NJ. Reid-Cory
.s3es Helen Rowland, the Rev. j. Herman
Randall Miss Villa Fauikner-Pase ana
William ] Colville. The meeting VIII pe
1,eld at > O'Clock on Saturday December
u At the waidorf-Astoria- AS II Will pt
presidents day all the presidents OF
women's clubs in greater New YORK nave
,aen invited to gather, with Mary Garret
Hay. president of the State Federation
and Mrs Belle De Rivera. president OF lhe
New York City Federation. reception
following the programme VIII begin at 4'0'
O'Clock
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

The Rev. Josiah Strong viii give an ad-
dress and Berfram Peacock VIII SING AT
the meeting of the Daughters. OF ONO 1"
he held at 2 O'Clock on Monday, January .
AT t-- AEaldorf-Astoria- At reception pre-
cszeding the meeting the newly eiec'eo ol-
ere will receive These officers are as
r,IIows: President, Miss Laura Skinner
-, ,,ioe-nresidenf. Mrs Mary Coffin john
con. second xice-presldent. Miss Frances
,,rpins. third vice-presidenf. MIS-. john }.
Thompson: fourth vice-presidehf, Mrs.
palnb NJ. Easley: fifth vice-president, Mrs.
Jennie Po--erine Heney; recording secre-
tarv. Mrs Margaret Holmes Bates; corre-
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

sponding secretary, Mrs. Morgan I, James
treasurer. Mrs James Hardy Proctor
auditor Mrs. Maria Townsend; historian
Mrs Sylvester Wylie Berry
Chairman of the executive committee
Mrs. William ]. Courtney. Mrs. William
Howard Taft is an honorary member OF
this society.
A successful amateur vaudeville was
given Monday evening in the Astor gallery
of the Waldorf-Astoria by the Bethel
Sisterhood double sextet. in which
the. Misses Claire, Friedenheit, Sophy
Glerflby Frances Seckels, Pauline Schlff,
Jeannette Warnstad and Amanda Jaeger
appeared with Henry Frank, Sidney Gold
stein. Ludwig Heller, Reuben Jacobson,
Alexander Shoninger and Jesse Jaeger. was
reminiscent of the seXtet from Flora
dora: Miss May Stevens and Sydney
Oberfelde appeared in sketch called of
and On and Philip Gottleb gave "A Lit
tie Bit of Everything" Miss Stella Steiner
did a song and dance in hobble skirt
and Miss Minna Steiner flung roses at the
audience as she sang Love Is Like Red.
Red Rose" Jack p. Newhoff gave some
impersonations. and there was a comedy
sketch by Phil Bluhm and Leo Franklin.
Miss May Schooler was a portrait In pho
tograph gallery, and the whole thing was
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

Mr.. and Mrs. William Grazing King will
open the programme of the next social
meeting of the New York Woman's Press
Club with a Beethoven sonata for violin
and piano, and later Mr. King will play a
violin solo, "Gypsies' Dances" Nine Alma
Webster Powell will sing. personally"
will be the subject for discussion, and some
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

muth Mrs. J. J. Fields, Mrs. Frederick
Hasbrouck. Mrs. Austin Bates. Mrs. Simon
Baruch, Mrs. James VI. Donald. Mrs.
Homer Lee. Mrs. Robins A. Lau, Mrs.
George Howe Winkler, Mrs. William E.
Fitch. Mrs. Joseph +. Nounnan, Jr., and
the president, Mrs. William r. Stewart.
The guests of honor viii be Mrs Joseph 5.
Wood. state regent, d. A R.; Mrs. Will
lam Cumming Story, regent, Manhattan
Chapter. d. A. R.; Mrs. John Miller Hor-
ton. regent, Buffalo Chapter, D. A r.; Cor
lelius Pugsley, president, Empire State So
ciety, S. A r., and Colonel William Mar
bIe. The entertainment is being given for
the purpose of raising funds to carry on
the work of educating a boy of Revolution
airy ancestry which the society has under
taken.
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

The patronesses of the dance 10 -. -. =.
by the Light Horse Harry Lee oocie's g
BRETON Hall. Broadway and s'th street, On
December %. are Mrs. William oo 'iei
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

The annual entertainment of the Woman s
Municipal League will be given in the ball
room of the Hotel Plaza on January l9, 1911
A series of tabIeaus is being arranged, and
Miss Alice Preston will sing. Mrs Fred
erick S. Lamb is chairman of the entertain
rnent committee.
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

THE Young Women's Christian Asso'iH-
ton viii have Christmas seiHiee
a<t-rnoon Al 2.3e O'Clock al no EaS' In
street The Christmas music VII Iil'i.-c
caI0is and anthems. and the soio
mas Diary Rowe SheiieY1 VIII DC 80
hv Mrs j. 6. Schroeeer Wl'h NIoii"
CATO by Miss Beatrice oiiNer ME- o.
Knowles vii give the Bible lesson
New-York tribune., 1910-12-25

The Working Ten Circle Of Kings Daugh-
ters will give an entertainment at Duryea
on Friday afternoon, December 80 Tor me
benent % its philanthropic fund Among
those announced to appear are MISS hilz-
abeth Popping. the Canadian pianist Mrs
Camille Rirnbohn. soprano. and MIS- MAT
gufrite Shoolbred, dancer. Mrs Emma NIP
10 wards. president of the circle Is at ihe
head or the committee of arrangements
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-06-14

By reporting favorably the ball intro
duced in the HOUSE Of Representative
BY Mr.. sUEzER toprovide for the erection
in Washington Of q statue Of SAMUEL
J. TnDEN the Committee on Library
has performed itS part in the furthar-
anCe Of this admirable patriotic enter
prize. The matter VIII now cone be-
fore the House. and Il sesma highly i'm
probable that any msmbsr win BE- able
10 discover an adequate reason for vot-
ing against the passage Of the bin.
II might be argued that TnDEN needs
no memorial excspt thoss monuments
Of his genius that are written IN the hIs-
tory Of his State and his country. Its
true that no bronze OF marble 3 neoss-
saTy 10 the psTpotuation Of his fame.
But mon will long continue 20 celebrate
the deeds and influence Of tire benefnc-
tors Of the race by material strIc-
lures.
We do not look for hesitancy or delay
in the passage Of the SulzsF ball By Con-
greas, and In expectation Of the early
completion Of the memorial We nominate
the Hon. JOHN BIOKLOw a. orator Of the
day On the occasion Of Ia unveillng.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-06-14

Piled to ths facts a. they shall be found
By the arbitratOrs 10 exist Great Britain
h entitled 10 prevail; but II the Law K
with the United States there cannot be
. docisiOn In favor Of Great Britain
merely because the arbitrator may
think u would be a better diplomatic
arrangement TO hand the fisheries over
wholly 10 the NeWfOundlanders. The
question for the tribunal Of arbitration
h what are the legal rights Of the re-
apeCtive parties, not what is diplomatic
cally best for either.
The text Of the address Of Mr.. LAM
MAscH, the president. delivered at the
opening meeting on June I, indicates
that his view accords with that which We
have expressed in regard 20 the char
acter and functions Of the tribunal Of
arbitration and the standards by which
II IL 20 be guided In arriving at a de-
cisiOn. We are fully aware he said,
that with the end Of promoting this
peaceful mode OF settling international
differences the award we have 10 pro-
nOsInce must by the force Of its motives
meet with the approval Of an who by
their unbiased knowledge Of interna-
tional law are entitled 10 critioise ne.
In other words the test Of the correct
noss Of the decision viii BE- Its con-
iormity with the rules Of International
law.
This is clear and satisfactory reOog-
milton Of the strictly Judicial nature Of
The lofty taak now being performed day
BY day. with the aid Of the highest legal
lalent which could b assigned to assist
hem, BY the i've Members Of the tri-
Dunal Of arbitration In the Gaze Of the
North Atlantic coast hshcries at The
Hague.