davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01
Easily Made Guest Room Desk Sets

inch souare of material forcing the up
right rod through its centre and pnstins
the edges against the under side oil tne
wooden disc.
Calendars arc made from seven by hvc
inch pieces of pasteboard slipped INTO
sim llnrly dimensioued bag, closed by over
casting A three inch square book colcn-
idar is then pasted against the front sac
and the back is equipped with hyc D!
two inch covered paStcboard eaSel brace
adjusted by paSung 10 IL an eAtehu'ns
end of the material,
Ink wells are made by converting the
sixth side of a very large pin cube into
ribbon hinged lid. covering it and the re-
manning sides and putting into IT u square
bottle containing writing uuid
Engagement pads of eight by four inch
dimensions are made on the same plan as
the blotter, but equipped With sheets oil
white cellulod, which, if slipped out and
sponged, may be used many times
For pcnhuders and pencils n shallow
box of about eight by two inches should
be covered and equipped with ribbon
hinged lid. rs 1t - practically impoSsioie
for an amateur to make q satisfactory
looking pen rack.
The pretlicSt materials for coverings
are the dcnims with small mcdnlions ana
hcur de-lis in silver, gold or contrasting
color; the plain heavy linens which CONF
IN every imnGina bic shade. and the printed
cretonnes and Delft CottonS If a giri
does applique work neatly she may deco
rate natural colored linen with gold en-
broidered cloth or sho may hand EN-
broidcr, hand paint or braid butche,
linen after she hnS cut out and htted .He
sized pieces needed for faotie
covered desk set.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

Of to-day is that of loose and com"
Portable fit (barring the tight skirt Of last
summer). still it is more essential than
ever that the dress shall really be OF the
fright lines for the figure.
Only very small girls ore dressed now
adays without reference to the naturally
good lines Of their figure, and girl Is
lscarcely in her teens before she must be-
gin to understand the necessity of good
6t and good lines il she is to look her
best. Straps arc put on the slimmcst
little figures. for although they are nat
orally laced very loosely a corset Is nee
Iessnry to help to train the waist line and
the bips in the way they must develop.
Worn loosely in this way and of softeSt
Texture straps are indorsed by physicians
as being n help rather than hindrance
toward good development
But "A young girl must bc carefully
guarded from try ing 10 make her waist
line small OF her hips too narrow, and oil
oil things her gowns must not be fitted IN
too snugly just above the waist line.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

~ RIDER is "A word which is not given
| ovcrmuch attention in these strenn-
GUS days, with so much to be done
that there il little time for thoroughness
In anything. And yet upon order de-
nonds much of the success of everything
in life, from personal nttractivcness to
victory in the school room or the sterner
battles of life,
If looking for good resolutions an cS-
ccllcnt determination would be to takc the
little word order and strive TO apply it In
every possible place in the course of the
days round
First of all, take order as applied to the
personal appearance, The untidy GIRL
she whose hair is never trim, whose collars
and whose belts never 6t we'll whose
gloves show holes ut the finger ends or
whose shoes are none too nicely polished
and show plainly that they Nre not kept
upon trees over night. This girl surely
has never applied the word order to her
self Where order Is lacking in dress
there is seldom charm. and young girl
without charm Is indeed to be pihed.
Next come the personal belongings
Many girls who are scrupulously neat III
their dress are wofully untidy in the
keeping of their rooms, their books ana
al things that are theirs to take care OIL
and vice versa. 1t IS such pity TO lei
things slide, and there Is nothing pu'
.lo2lness MS An excuse for an uDtldY room.
Too law to put away one thing before
another is taken out, too lazy TO get up
in time to leave the room in order oclore
going off 10 school-it is the story always.
The orderly being is the person who
is always ready for any emergency anu
nevor is forced TO miss pleasure because
the clothes are not i'll readiness or there
are tasks to be done which should nave
been attended TO before and can no" pe
pnt off no longer. Never leave to do To-
morrow whit can he done today Is one
of the first rules of the orderly girl
There * really nowhere that order is
not essential. In the school room the eirl
whose desk le always In state oil up
hcavnl laborS under real disadNantase
through the precious study minutes sn'
forfeits IN looking for some reference or
copy book which is somewhere-she can [
just rcmember where The nntdy note
book has not half the chnncf oil sooo
mark that the neatly Kept book starts
of with. even though the work In The
latter is not quite so brilliant
1t is mistake, of all things. ever TO
allow the pcDmsnship TO become untluF'
illegible or disordcrH. The most tr'N'a'
notes ahould be jotted down In neat
book kept for the purpose and shonld Il"
he written with the greatest care. else
the handwriting will grow dlsorderly atI
the. crucial time when u characteristics
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

GUEST room desk sets may easily be
I nnde by the girl who has plenty OF
time at her disposal. as most attrac-
tive looking convenicnccs of this order nre
composed of heavy pnstebonrd covered
with printed cretonnc, heavy linen or fig
ured denim. a
For the pad use piece Of pastebonrd
the size of nn ordinary newspaper page,
lay a strip of the chosen material smooth
" over the back and, turning the edges
over the opposite side for the spncc CT
about an inch, secure them firmly with
mucilngc, Next cover two four inch wide
by sixteen and a half inch long card
board strips with the material, leaving a
one-balf inch margin on the three outer
sides. which must be turned against the
two end edges of the larger piece anu
secured to il with row of small gilt
headed nails These strips form the
pockets for the blotter. which should be
of shade hormonizing with that of the-
covering
For the sheet and envelope rack take
a stationery box of about eight 10y six by
six inch dimensions, reduce its front four
inches, cover with the cotton or linen
and between the uPrishts force
tnc two inch reduced top section of the
lid.
Spindle bases nrc covered by curving
perfect circle from twice folded six
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

to ankle must be straight, as nearly per
pendicular as possible.
"A fayorite skirt model of the moment
consists of d Wide double box plat front
and back, the plaitS opened out somewhat
below tho knees. At each side there is
straight gore or panel. so that tho skirt
bas no 1are, yet there Is sufficient fulueSs
TO be both comfortable and practical.
In materials light weight serge In
either the plain or fancy stripes weave
Is ever favorite for a dress that is TO
recelvo really hnrd usage, Smooth cloths
of course are never used for the smarter
afternoon gowns, but NIL rough tcNtures
are best for rough wear. IL the material
is TOO heavy for whist the bodice may
'be formed of silk crepoD or dull satin
with band of tho cloth to keep the char
acter of the gown. The soft blanket like
material that is seen in the newest coat
and skirt costumes is also used for school
gowns, although il Is rather warm for
house wear.
The great dlnlculty in q cloth gown is
to keep 1T sufficiently light in weight for
the house without combining with il satin,
which renders the gown rather elaborate
for school wear. or chiffon, which is too
pcrisbablo for hard usage. \ fine quality
of light weight serge or any one Of the
light weight rough finished wool fabrics
is best made with the waist quite plain,
sleeve in one piece with the rest of the
bodice and inst a few turkS or DlnIIS IN
give fulness across the bust A band of
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

silk braid or Persian trimming VIII give
pretty finish to the waist beneath the
net yoke and cuff
q ILK braid, either the color Of the gown
or black. is fashionable trimming
just now and adorns many of the most
costly frocks The braid is anywhere from
one to six inches In width, often forming
tho only trimming on an entire costume
Belt, cuffs. baud about the front oil the
skirt and a square piece finishing the yoke
on the bodice. all of black braid about iour
inches wide trimmed a simply mace blue
school frock most attractiycly. braloln9
must always be used in moderation nnd
especially for young people must there DC
no overelnboration of machine stl'cheo
braid. but II htte OF it Is n pretty and
sensible trimming
Tho smart colors this year are the over
favorlte warm winter shades For older
people black is most IN evidence, put ior
Young girls dark blue. red. the oiherene
tans and golden brown md some lew
shades of green take Its place DARK ui"e
is one of the last hues of which It's Wearer
tires, and for this reason it is strongly
to be recommended The newer colors Tor
young girls all border on the tan and
brown, although true dark brown rs not
smart at all save in corduroy or velvet
\ very dark green is a good color lor a
school dress, but the bright greens are
not advisable save for a gown that haS
only occasional wear!
! 1T is q mistake for Il school dress 10 be
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

pcnmanship is forming, and in all after
life il will be almost impossible TO alter
it incidentally an untidy hand can make
Infinite trouble for its poSsessor, not only
at school, where marks are lowered be-
cause of It, but later on when important
documents may be misinterpreted because
of the illegible writing
In connection with all correspondence
order Is essential The timely writing and
answering of all notes and invitations
and the clear and orderly addressing of
the envelopes that no mistakes may oc-
cur at the post Office are part of the edu-
cation of lady no matter what her sta
ton in life.
The girl who makes It stern duty to
keep her house or at any rate all her
own possessions in order is seldom ner-
yously hurried and fretted for everything
she wants at any time she can lay her
hands upon at once. A place for every
thing and everything in place is of course
the secret of order No maid however
competent could keep in order the posses
sions Of one accustomed to being untidy
and slothful, just as the naturally neat
and orderly girl demands no help to keep
her gowns always in good trim and her
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

and rat tail centres done iu chestnut burr
design, while tea coscyS Of the came ma
terlal curry the owners monogram IN fine
braiding.
Russian crash is employed for tray
cloths ornJmcntcd with an ulloycr fancy
cord pattern Of pale green and rose or
maize and blue; for the front, backs, col
lar and cuffs OF blouse decorated with
coronation braid and for the crown and
brim of lingerie hats elaborated with
soutAche.
For lingerie garments there arc board
hangers covered with Irish linen and
decorated with soutnche, and of the same
material arc travelling, infant and face
pillow tops having fancy cord borders.
Natural colored linen is employed for
automobile hoods embellishcd with raj
tail and for linen Ascot ties worked with
fine fancy cord
HncSabuck show towels used for bed
room drcSScrs. table covers aud chair
bnckS have scolloped ends and bordcrr
worked III corUuGtlon.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01
Braiding Ornamented Fancy Work

~ FASCINATING form of fancy
II work which interests many young
girls is braiding, which progresses
rapidly and does not strain the eyes.
The coronation. soutnche, rat Juil and
iancy cord brnids are applied 10 laundera-
bic materials like canvas. crash, Irish
jncu and damask stamped for various
dsetul purposes. Closet shelf strips and
bureau drawer mats of white canvas With
tuttonhole scalloped edges have German
verses done in fine soutache, Bureau
SETS. consisting OF two Scnrts. short and
long. and an oblong cushion, are of white
Or tinted canvas. hemStitch bordercd and
braid decorated
Rather heavy white lawn is used FOR
launderablc pin cushion tops, folinge dec
GRATED with lace braidiDg The edges
VI both sides of the covers are scallopcd
aud bordcred with eyclcts for the ribbon
which threads the two sides together.
Damask centrepicccs. buffet scarfs and
dog hes Of three sizes have scalloDed edge.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01
SOCIAL AMENITIES FOR 81
THE SCHOOL GIRL E

own little room md its possessions always
ready for the most critical inspection.
To cultivate n habit of order Is not alto
cethcr ensy for some in fact. II Is very
difficult to always put away the garments
that are taken Cd not to be used again
that day. OF to sit down to sew on buttons
and collar bones when there Is n tempting
story book to b. read, To stop to write
the necessary note, to return borrowed
book TO take pains with the handwriting
when no one but oneself will read it-nU
these and A hundred other things demand
"A regular effort OF will and a struggle with
the lazy inner self which is far from easy.
Once in the realm OF conscience. there
Is all of ones inmost self TO he kept III
order. \ quick temper spirit ot Jea''
ousy. a too great desire for pretty things
bcvond ones rcach-theSc and thousand
other little characteristics, different Tor
each individual, require n constant Keep
ing in order. go.
Even the power of punctuality' WIN
all the important events through nle
which hinge upon fixed habit oil oeins
on time, is absolutely dependent upon
confirmed habit of order. Small "ouuei
TINT "order Is heavens first lawt
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

TVS regards the sleeve for the school
y room frock, there is no question 1t
should be full length. The width OF
he sleeve cannot be stated with the same
xactncss. for some OF the greatest French
Establishments show sleeves as tight as
my introduced two years bnck, while at
,ther houses equally famous quite a full
lccve is brought out This full sleeve IS
specially pretty when of soft trans
mrent fabric, as chiffon, net or moussclinc
le sole, through which the tight fitted
ming is easily discerniblc The fulness is
tut in two or more puGs, the longer pult
1t the shoulder, the end one quite small
md gathered into tight cu0 at the
wrists In The fine lady's cloth or the
hin quality OF serge that is now pro
,urable for n morning dress the pret-
lest sleeve perhaps consists in an upper
Diece, which is made as part Of the
raist itself This piece, somewhat full. is
augut into cuff at the elbow, beneath
rhich is a deep cuff, finished with band
It white nj the wrists. The mandarin
leeyc is still ia vogue. but the under arm
opening has closed up many inches. SO
Aat the sleeve can il desired be quite tight
itting.
In fact, the fun length absolutely tight
itting sleeve, the upper part nude In one
piece with the bodice and the lower hal
added as cuff beneath fiat bias o.
trnight fold OF band of the material. j
In excellent model for school dress.
>ne inch cuff Of white folded or tucke,
avn will give neat and pretty finish L
his very simple sleeve.
For the girl at boarding school or col
cgc these narrow white collurs and cufl
,hould be provided with tiny buttons o
tIasps to fastcn them to the waist, a
very minute between rising bell and tim
10 he down stairs is pyecious. and in tn
ilIort to obtain good marks los punctualit
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

of jackets this autumn hang quite strnlght
from the collar band, others again fit
in snugly to the figure, n stitched cloth
or n leather belt passing through straps
in front and back. This is an adaptation
of the old Norfolk jacket, always IN ex-
cellent model for a school dress.
4 dull plaid is ever attractive for an
extra dress. Trimmed with bands Of
s,Hd color, the cont being Of the one tone
with collurs..revers and cuffs of the plaid
an extremely pretty school costume may
be evolved.
Although the general effect of the gowns
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

lined with taffcta. Apart from the fact
that it wears out so quickly it Is also too
hot to be comfortable for house wear. Thin
lawn is the best lining of all. but if pre-
ferrcd soft satin is cool in weight and
far more durable than silk A skirt lined
with perculinc or some such texture hn-
ished with silk ruflle, will fit Just ns well
Ns though the foundation were of silk
throughout,
4 + it is desired to have a jacket for each
gown one of the new beltcd-in models Is
especially pretty over dress oil
the same material. While tie majority
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

n Z q ono suit can stand the con-
IN stant everyday wear 6f the
M school room, and the coat and
skirt costume must needs be
worn INTERCHANGEABLE with a
simple cloth or serge frock. with
n ulster added for out Of doors To bc
eally economical the dress may be made
eith waist and skirt separate, SO that
tbcn desired for vnricty's sake silk or
1botross blouse can at times I've worn with
lie skirt ot the suit Whether this will
c possible depends. of course, largely
pon The material of the gown and the
hshion- in which 1t IS trimmed.
gown for the school room must need
.SS to state. be built upon tho simplest
,odel possible, but its simplicity will not
eccSsitatc anything unbccoming. II, for
Nnmplc. n girl does not look her best
nlcss there Is considerable white next
rr face, then the yoke of net or embroid-
ry must be carried down somewhat fur
her than ordinarily is tho case. Dark
okcs and collars of transparent net orI
biGlon are once again in use for all prac-
Ical purposes, and when finished with
urned down collars of sheer embroidered
tucked lawn the dark collar band isl
iten extremely becoming.
These fine white collars. about an inch
cep. which are bnstcd To the high net
ollnr, are the revival of fashion much
O vogue about eight or ten years back,
nd for simple style Of dress it is mn
xcelleut means of keeping the collar ser
lccablc yet becoming.
The collar is about an inch deep and
,ay be made of tucked net. mousscline de
Die, linen, lawn or even silk, although the
litter is scarcely advisable, since 1t can
ut he wished Often this little top col
,r is seen In chiffon the color of the dress
lsclf. when the yoke and high collar are
rhitc. One reason that these little white
urhcd down collars look so much pretticr
han when formerly worn is because the
nllar band itself is now transparent OF.
{ any rate, Of the softest silk and not
bick and cumbersome as collars were at
ne time made.
The colarlcSs gown is so very comfort
bIe that many young girls are reluctant
= wear high boned collar While Il high
ollnr is Infinitely smarter and is obliga-
pry when a coat is worn. there arc some
ollarless frocks made for the youngest
iris. and these are cut high enough 10
mite cover the collarboneS and. with
heir soft linen frills fastened on quite
nugly. leave little of the throat and none
( the neck itself exposed.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01

personal trimucss must not be allowed to
suffer
The normal waist line is to be seen on
all young girls frocks. and beneath the
rounded stitched or folded belt the ma
teria of the waist is pulled down so AS
to be not too stiff, yet again not really
blouSng. Much depends upoD the model
for the dress, of course. as in some gowns
the waist fits much more snugly to the ig-
urc than In others. A four inch belt with
the waist somewhat full above is becom-
ing to many girlish figures.
n REAr has been the advance in the
lfashioning and manipulating Of skirt
models since the tight skirt was first
brought out While there is no actual
return to n full skirt, at the same time
there Is nothing over exaggerated In the
newest models. and especially in the short
skirts for the schoolgirl arc graceful lines
adhered to
When the skirt is the fashionable model
slightly gathered above the knees. with
deep straight band forming the lower half
this band is quite full enough to allow of
an easy, graceful walk This band also
when 1t completely cDcirclcS the skirt and
forms the only trimming is of consider
ably greater depth than iu the original
models. Often. again, the lower part of
the skirt, while of a different piece of
material. is put on In straight, even box
plaits OF tucks. which arc fastened in at
the hem so as to permit OF no darine As
with all grown ups gowns so it Is with
the skirts for young girls. No flare is
permitted.
TheS may be fulness in plenty, but
it must bo held under close bondage, and
the widths of the skirt must be straight.
not bias cores. since anything cut on the
bias tends 10 flare. The lines about the
figure are oil round. Those from shoulder
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-10-01
kSRACTlCA AL FASHION :
tAz11 Mr tie SCHOOL OUTFIT
JufIIBluHu7iQ1aE

o ono suit can stand the con-
slant everyday wear 6f the
school room, and the coat and
skirt costume must needs be
worn Interchangeable with a |
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1910-03-24
The Vogue Millinery
SHAFER- BROWN

Mr.. and Mrs. James Kilen returned
last evening from an extensive visit
at Chicago and other eastern points.
want every lady ON Camas Prai-
rie to push for my furniture by buy
ing one of my $40 go-carts. w. E.
Graham. 10
Mr.. and Mrs. w. w. Brown and
daughter, Zelma, returned the last
of the week from visit with Lewis
ton relatives.
Elmer Genger left the first OF the
week for a business trip to Montana
and points In the Alberta country.
He will be gone a few weeks.
w. r. Crosby returned the last OF
the week from a trip to Lewiston on
business. He was called to the out
side again yesterday for brief
stay.
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1910-03-24
MARRIED LAST WEEK.

Arch Dyer and bride, formerly Miss
Louise Rumpf, of Spokane, arrived
last night from Portland, where they
were married Wednesday of last
week. They will take up their resi-
dence at the Scott home in the east
part of town. MIR. Dyer is one OF
the citys most popular young men
and is prominent in the best social
and commercial circles of the town.
His bride has a number of friends
here who speak of her in terms OF
highest regard. To Mr.. and Mrs.
Dyer The Globe tenders congratula-
tons with best wishes for life
time of happiness.
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1910-03-24
ORDINANCE PASSED.

The ordinance permitting the com
pany represented by Walter Hovey
Hill to operate an electric light and
power plant in Grangeville was pass
ed at the meeting of the city coun'
Gil Tuesday night. The matter was
presented to the city fathers some
time ago and met with such favor
that the earliest possible passage Of
the ordinance was thought advisable
The gas plant ordinance was given
its second reading and considerable
discussion of the sewer proposition
occurred.
The Grangeville globe. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho) 1907-1922, 1910-03-24
WILL LOCATE AT pALousE.

Mr.. and Mrs. Fred J. Anderson ar
rived in the city last evening for a
brief stay. Mr.. and Mrs. Andersen
formerly conducted the Bell theater
her and have scores of friends In
Grangeville. Since leaving several
weeks ago they have travelled ex-
tensively through the northwest and
have decided to locate for time at
Palouse, where they have purchased
theater. They will leave Friday
for their new home.