New-York tribune., 1910-04-03
Season, oE Mingled Modes
Old and New Fashions Developed in Strange
Colors and Curious Mixtures of Materials

-,-s7s from, this silk in a nice dark blue had
ghe short skirt gathered over large cords'
"A cluster Of three Just below the hips, an
ether knee high. The hem of the deep
Cource thus formed was weighted by
fc,lr-inch shirred band. A narrower band
trimmed the nem of the beltei coat, ana
ssh narrower we're the hands trimming the
sleeves. tie collar and the front edges
The collar was fat and round over IL
t.rucd another of the same form made OF
finely embroidered white muslin, and sott
Aida silk crayat in delicious cashmere col
ors. tied in a loose bow, held 1t together at
The throat Except for one button at the
belt line this was the only fastening.
Tailored costumes have become SO easy OF
attainment and have been so much abused
that exclusive women are likely to reserve
them for morning walks. shopping and for
travelling. The one-piece gown. with the
addition Of a silk mantle. bolero and the
newer Spencer jacket, will be the correct
costume Tor other day time wear. At re-
cent - c'clocn' a young woman wore
cre-pieca gown Of sand colored silk. with
touches Il brilliant French blue in the
corsaea. Of tinted lace and silk. The two
materials were joined in seam circiing
The figure at the height of the bust, and
hung short and loose over ecru tinted mus
lin undersleeves-
second gown showed the beauty of
ne,x shantung printed in narrow lines of
dark blue forming squares. After new
fashion the short overskirt was pulled up
on 20 the corsage in the form of a bib,
which swelled at each side into fat rosetteS.
narrowed AT the top TO shape a square at
he neck. and was held at the waist line
by q wide wrinkled belt OF changeable
blue and brown taffetas.
Long silk garments. in black and dark
chanceable shades. in long redingote shape,
delirktfully reminiscent OF the eighteenth
century. are half fitted, loosely sashed and
trimmed with many narrow pinked frills
They froth az the hem, ripple at the neck
and mass. overlapping, at the wrists IN
tended for liSht sumner wraps. tits easy
10 imagine their attractiveness over frilled
white or Ponpadour Powered muslin gowns,
ccQuettishly beribboned.
OId-fashioned lace fichus, white and black,
with a point in the back and long slender
euds. are used 20 drape the cOrsage- Passed
straight across the shoulders, they cross
on the bust. with the ends slipped through
the belt \ gown OF soft white silk, COW
orcd with far-apart bouquets of tiny pink
and blue flowers. had no trimming on the
bodice except a fichu of this sort. The full
gathered skirt was trimmed at the hem
with cluster Of three narrow overlapping
1ofIfcs. Elack velvet ribbon bound the bare
throat. and tied the wrists below frilled
oren sleeves
The use of two or more materials in one
gown is almost universal One might easily
draw the conclusion that such a fashion
would help on the cause Of home dress
making. hut. on the contrary. only the
greatest amount IF sartorial knowledge and
ssiI can achieve from this mingling a
satisfactory result. Seen in the piece, the
unr-aetised eye m9rvels at the new foUlard
silks printed ~ the crudest Of colors. In
the completed costume the colOrs. shielded
jry black tr1nsParencies, are softened into
real artistic beauty.
EAEGARET ALICE FRIEND.