The Washington times., 1910-09-09

/ hold the upper At that point securely
Metb P3ef Lasting ne Mse6ne now dlS Se
each portion OF The upper securely down
[ 10 the last. taking the stretch from the
leather, and taeks driven automatically
: but part way in hold It there The toe
portion Is smoothly -rawn around this
i part Of the snoe by the ingenious United
SnOe Machinery Company Lasting Ma
/ chine No. 3 These operations are most
( carefully performed, and the lasts are
not removed until the shoe is finished.
( so CTaddock Shoes hold their shape and
Z are comfortable they are not drawn
I tightly IL one place and loosely 30 an
( other The Rex Upper Trimming Ma
cAiue nov Trims on ali the suTplIs parts
Of the shoe upper and the Good year In
/ sole Tack Pulling Machine WItldTaUs
/ the taCks which held the iusoIe- 20 the
last The shoe IS now ready 20 receive
! the welt. which Is narrow strip OF
I prepared leather SeWed along the edge
: Of the shoe. beginning where the heel
! IS placed and ending ~ the same spot
on the opposite edge This welt is sew
ed from inside the lip OF the iDSOle. and
the curved needle passed through the
Iip. shoe ursrser and welt rs-Frfn~ I'm
three securely and allowing the welt 20
pTOtTuGe outward from The edge Of the
shoe The needle ia making this stitcn
does not 20 inside o. the shoe. but
passes through only a portion OF the
insole. and as the taczs which were
driven but part way In IN lasting. are
Withdrawn the shoe IS left perfectly
smooth inside This part of the work
was formerly one Of the most difficult
u was performed entirely By hand, the
drawing or each stitch depending upon
the strength and mod OF tie workman
II IS. OF course. obvious that stitches
were ofteatirneS Of different lengths and
drawn with different tensions II is
surprising how quickly and easily the
work IS done on the Goodyear Welt
Sewing Machine, Model G. This famous
machine has been the leading factor IN
the great revolution that has taken
place IN shoe manufacturing Its WORK
should be carefully noted all stitches
are OF equal length and measured auto
uaucally, the strong linen thread Is
thoroughly WaZed and drawn evenly
and tightly, Tor the machine never
IlTes-lt draws the thread a. strongly in
lhe evening as IN the morning Every
revolution OF the shuttle forms z lock
Sltch OF great strength, which holds
the wet, upper and insOle securely to
The Goodyear Universal Insaa7, Trim
ming Machine now trims the surplus
portion OF the welt and upper smoothly
Gown 10 the stitches. and the Goo6vea-
( - eit Ees-teI ana SlaS1er forces The
welt 10 stand out evenly from the cd.-l
q the shoe The Goodyear Shank We
-ShAFeF tIinS OF the welt at r1e shank
ana q specially prepared material Is
spread over the iusOle 20 form partial
( cushion for the foot The entire bottom
of the shoe Is now coated with r91bbe-
/ cement rom the Star Cemeutiug Ma
lcnIne- and the heavy OU1SoIe- made from
tIe most careIJliy tanned selected sole
1VdtiltE. me Io-sn or ueSn side OF Thi-I
mas Deen coated With cement is moulded
INTO shape and pressed securely into
position bE the GOODYEAR Tu1Dro-c1
Twin Sole Laying Machine. where II is
allowed 20 remain sufficient time for
the cement 10 set The next operation
80 lliet lheS protCQe a UNIFORM distance
from the edge of the shoe. giving shane
] 10 tle sole simultaneously with the
t-oLil,ili-e op-i allull the Llacf-lne cuts a
little channel OF slit along the edEe OF
I ti-e OUTSIDE I'D r1ucn the same ma luer
as The work was done on the inSCIe-
[ va Pin
/ a very oi1ncult and costly operation by
ihand- but seems simplicity itself when
the operation Is performed On this ma
cnlne- me roundlng operation slElpiy
includes that portion OF the Sno. to
which the welt has been sewed- Issv-
ing the OUTSIDE al the heel without
tension This portion IS nrSt nailed 20
the shoe on the Loose Mailing Machine
e from which small brass nails autOUat-
icaIlv driven and suaced- are cIincTed
a against the steel heel Of the last The
surplus portion Of the leather is then
{ trimmed Of on the Heel Seat Rounding
L Machine and the little channel cut bv
2 the knife Of the Rough Rounding Ma
D cnlne- = turned Up 50 as 10 leave the
channel open Tor The little Goodyear
: Universal Channel Opening Machine, iu
: which a little wheel turning very rapid
J Is lays the lip smoothly back The out
sole Is now Sewed 10 the welt This
& operation Is performed on the Goodyear
2 OutsOle Rapid LOcksritch Machine
which IS very similar IN operation TO the
Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine used in
sewing the welt 70 the shoe The stitch,
however. Is finer and extends from .he
/ Cnannet which vas cut Tor Il 70 the
upper side Of the welt, where Il shows
after the shoe has been finished The
= ,lOckstitch formed by this machine is q
y most durable one using a thoroughly
I. WaXed thread, il holds the OEISOie Sc
= cEreiy in place, even after the connect
q ing stitches have been worn on II IS
a one OF the most IrnIsortant machines in
p the ShOemaEiuE process In connection
; with this machine there IS also a Bob
bin Ninner winch winds the D0oDln usei
= ia the rotary shuttle OF the machiuA
@ = coating Of cement Is now applied in
: side the channel lust us-T in S1frchful
u and after Il has been allowed 10 PROD
: erly set the lip IS smoothly laid down
e by the Goodyear Channel Laying Ma
. chine
: The next operation is that Of IeveIing
q which Is performed on the Automatic
r Sole T.eveiiuC Machine, one Of the most
!, interesting used In the shOeuaziug
by its use a vibrating roll passes Owe
> the sole Of the shoe under heavy pres
g sure covering every portion of the
. sole and shank and after conplet-
Ing its operation the shoe : auCOnatt-
u Caliy dropped from Its position beneath
Z the roll. II removes every possibility
: Of uneveuneSS in the bottom Of the shoe
The shoe row receives its heel. which.
. with the exception of the top lift, has
u already been prepared Il IS secured in
Il place by the American Lightning Heel
L ing Machine by means Of which all the
! heel nails are driven at one time and
: cIinched inside the shoe. The heads Of
il me nails are left urorrrriirzr above the
j heel 50 as 20 retain the top lift, which
& Is also pressed into place en- this ma
= chine As Il Is pressed down over the
: beads Of the nails they DO not show on
n the surface Of the top lift
e The next machine drives the small
- pieces Of brass or other metal which
protect the top lift from wear and
which Sre called sluCS- This Is done
s BY the Universal SlugEiug Machine
n They are accurately placed ar any de-
s sired number, the machine automatical-
; Z driving and cutting them of as they
are drawn fTOTs a continuous cord or
? wire The ton TT. which was aCCura te-
: IL UTaCe1 on the Keeling Machine, also
B. serves as guard for the Ultima ETFeI
. Trimming Machine. in which a rapid
= revolving knife cuts away al the rOush
n and surplus portions OF the leather
e Ier~in-- tie edge Of the neeI smooth
g with the exact contour intended. Tn
p t.I-eS or tire sole are now trimmed on
Z -'-e Model "a Edge Trim ming Ma
e chine and q series of indentations made
j. alnnc - Snrface Of tho vel 49,.