The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-10-02

TUNES in white. lavishly embroidered
with jet. and in black embroiderod n
! white or crystal
Paquin model in black will an i'd
/ picturesque draped overdress OF tunlo
! 81 white chiffon with border Of blaSk en-
cited considerable attention af the opaN.
| ing Of this popular house. II had r..
lieving notes 81 a luscious red and ths
tunic was caught up TO the skirt front
by a large and handsome ornAmen, "a
Jet One 81 the loveliest Of the Paluin
models this fall was another white and
black model % more conservative typs
built up 20 white chiffon over pales' fe-k
pink and exquisite white laoes with en-.
broideries Of jet and slight touches OF
black velvet.
Worth. rho is always more conservative
than his peers and goes in for refined
elegance rather than striking novelty.
has been very happy in his models this
fall and is responsible for some Of the
most supremacy handsome and WearAhe
frocks exhibited. A typical instance
was the gray chiffon frock OF the large
cut The bodice vas OF silver net and
silver lace. the skirt Of gray chiffon toninR
in perfectly with the dull silver. and the
original and effective feature OF the inodel
was the train 81 SIMPLEST gray satin orusa-
ing in the hack and 70 rming . squAr.
train We, retaining the approved nArrou
skirt lines.
The backs of the new frocks are often
par, icularly interesting. a plain straiRh,
tunio developing odd draperies In The
hack. and collars. panels. sashes. &c.
aIiording an kinds 81 surprises.
r.. - .,oNar u ona % n diaainrsl-.
features Of the seAsoo's modes. and no
type Of fr6ci< II safe from IL. Generally
speaking II shows q marked Diroctoire
TENDENCY. but II by no means confines
itself to definitely Disectoire lines.
yhe revers may be hugh. hut they are
far softer aud less formal than the trad.
tianal pir~ctoiV revsrs. and they are
prone to wandGr OF into square backed
sailor cuuays. dropping fchu GrranEe-
tnents falling low over the arms and any
number Of extravagAnzas which have
nothing to do With the true Diraoaoire
revers Especially on evening ooais and
eaFyiags coats do the revers and oollAp
swell 20 abnormal proportions and the
quantity Of a supple fur such - chin.
chilla. n'oleSkin. Sc. which can be put
into one 81 these huge COAT collars IL
surprising.
The tchu has couae back 10 favor.
along with the popular supplies bodice.
lip.s and a pretty fancy dictatee the use
Of flmy t,ille ichu over trimmed bodpsA
That in, the bodice. a. in a Dumay model
illustrated here. may he trimmed in lao.
and little roses fhd the shearest Of tulk
Gcbus folded softly over the whole
This little DuIuay model. by the wss.
10 one Of the picture frocks in which the
makers ere yelling and its skirt shows
one ~ the one sidc,i arrangements which
both skiris and bndices display in many
~ The new models. The lovely white
and back pagtiin model. 10 which refer
enCe has Rlrssdv been made. has one
rioasan' GlsoV" Il chiffon embroidered
the other uf finest point d'esprit Dor
dsred bv a to ba nd az fine Mechlin lace
This sounds odd. but the bodice cut ard
d~,peTy hr'ng the Cdd sieeyes into hAr
mony y nh IN" general plan.
The narrow. limp So r-s and uunics =
ID" rro1,ish fro"ss ~. drawn down int
the approved Inai, bv varihaIs devices
Sometimes little !eldea weishts sewed
INTO the hem ar. entrusted with the in.
pOriHnt task. often the hoavy bead or
silk embnoicierirs serVo The nIlrposs.
Narrow T1nEs. especially i Little hall
fringe Of jet. n,sarl. crystal. stetL nc. II
much used to border the shssr alnic
some sheer skirts are faced UP deeply
With broadcloth % match and lp~ordsr g.
ay Old hem this cloth u attached to an
entire skirt lining or foundatiop Of chit
fon quite separats from the outer skir
save AZ the hand.