davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22

n ESIDES being essentially simple IN
X construction, the peasant garb.
- which Is so decided a note In the
present and the incoming garments.
presents certain peculiarities by which
we may know. It.
The simplicity must, however. be
there, otherwise the true significance of
this style will be lost Mainly from the
peasants of the eastern countries has
this style been drawn, Russia and Tur-
key entering largely into the count. A
mere glance at the field dress of an
oriental peasant and then consdera-
ton Of his holiday garb' will convince
the student of styles Ind their origin of
the birth of this one.
The half skirt, or tunic, which came in
with the side-fastening Russian blouse.
was one of the first things borrowed
from the peasant, and there has fol-
lowed a steady adaptation of various
tunic lines and gathers and lappings,
both on costumes and coats as well as
on evening gowns. where we first saw
the plaque or ornamental patch Of en-
broidery. which has long been one form
OF decoration resorted to by the primi-
tive needleworker.
Speaking of needlework. the peasant
styles have brought about a revival of
all the earlier stitches and most simple
lines in decoration. COUGHING, or laid
work. has returned cross-stitching has
become more popular; long-effective
unpadded work. like the first attempts
of peasant woman, are shown as the
last touch on the handmade gown, and
all of the easiest over-and-over work
stitched in at right angles with the last
section of the design reproduce the
earliest form of hand embroidery.
Girdles are a prominent note of the
peasant garb in the costumer's art, hav-
ing descended from the weapon belt of
old and from the convenient cord that
tied IN the loose tunic whether it was
long or short
Proceeding from the girdle and its
process, the gathers about the hip and
the very simple bodice, almost seam
less. both of which are the most promi-
nent features of the present style, both
distinctly traceable. to the clothes of the
neld laDorer of eastern countries.
The gathered skirt is comparatively
short. and Is simple to a degree; its
tendency is to pull in about the feet in
iHeS we would nave called ugly few
years ago. A deep hem weights 1t now,
or else holds in its scant gathers. bring
ing about this drawn-in look.
The sleeve proceeding directly from
the yoke portion without a break in the
line is a part of the most primitive type
of blouse. and the various strapped and
buckled fastenings down the left front
repeat the wel1-known methods of clasp
Ing which are prominent among early
tribes and present-day peasants.
In the region of the elbow we have
now a tendency toward the carelessly
fitted sleeve which widens as it hangs,
after the fashion of the coNatry folk
worn the holiday undersleeve of hand
made lace. the veritable bit over which
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22
Bridesmaids Gowns

rOR the early spring bridesmaids IL
II is growing customary to plan the
- gowns on a flower scheme. the
delicate blossoms OF the orchard AFFORD
ing countless opportunities for colors
and departing little from the usual
Apple blossoms, cherry blossoms or
the orange and plum come fragrantlv
to the front Yellow. pink white or
pale leaf green are capable OF being
used for the dresses, which. by the way
Hats must be trimmed with the flowers
10 match the bouquet. which Is a nat
ural bunch OF buds and flowers.
Embroidery that carries ont the
flower idea is suggested for decoraff-,asS, !,
the gowns. while garlands OF artificia1
flowers lend an air Of completeness -
the blossom idea
All the breath and bloom OF the snrin.
can be given to bridesmaids arrav Tbs. ~
IDEA Is assured success when adonteS
by the clever hsids-te-ba
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22
THE PICTURESQUE CHILDREN
FROM PARIS

TINE little children Of Paris pre-
sent most picturesque ap-
- pearance, differing widely from
thar-with which we are familiar as
childish ideal. American children are
always simple when. they are cor
rectly dressed. and while we cannot
wholly recommend the more unique
methods of the French for very fear
of overdressingN our little ones, we
love to stand aside and take notes
from which we draw a certain appre-
citation of the picturesque. We modify
their ideas to suit our own less quaint
children. and find help in the cleverness
of the French mothers.
The too-long frock is distinctly
Partisan, and though attractive, it is
quite far removed from the practical
shortness that we have accustomed
our children to. This comfortably alb
breviated frock will probably win its
way in France some day, as has our
own tailor-made street dress. with it's
skirt so much shorter than the Paris
ian once wore.
The Iong-waisted frock for little girls
is so much a feature of each seasons
foreign fashions that the dress with
the dropped sash has long been
known to us as 1.-The little French
-dress." This is now worn on both sides
of the Atlantic: in Paris to great ex-
tent. but on this side with less enthu-
siasm. the regular belt line being more
popular here.
Another distinctly French fashion is
the bretelle. or long rever. extending out
on either side of the panel and reach
ing over the shoulders. This provides an
especially good place for frills Of valen-
ciennes lace; but we in America deplore
this excessive use of the fluffy rufies-
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22

The princess panel. In its many inter
pretations OF primitive garb. is a prev
alent note among Partisan styles for
little ones. and particularly for those OF
the 12-year stage. Many truly beau1-
full bits Of embroidery enliven these
quaint frocks. while others seem to our
eyes merely peculiar in their effort to
revive old-tirne hand work.
These fashions do not in any way ap-
proach. from a purely practical stand
point. our own. The American child
NAV not be so absolutely picturesque
nor yet so primitive. but season after
season we cling to the stitched linens In
white or colored surfaces. to cotton
bedford or pique. to such stuffs as kim
dergarten and racquet cloth or to gala
tea and the various linens: all durable
stuffs of heavy weight. more suited TO
that fascinatingly severe cut with a
stitched finish than to lacy trimmings.
We ike. too. the pretty percales and
the reliable ginghams. with braid or IN
sertion or a touch OF hand embroid-
cry. but either Of which materials ex-
cludes dangling laces even as remote
possibility.
On our more delicate dresses. such as
sheer linens. nets and swtsses. we per-
NIT the lace insertion. but we uphold
more enthusiastically the fine solid or
eyelet embroidery IN small doses
Ribbons and sashes? Yes. when they
are becoming and appropriate. but when
unbecoming and on the undress occa-
sion-no.
Would you have your children grow
up gracefully and with ease OF manner,
clothe them well: by which we mean
simply-always-but with so much COM
fort and common sense that they viii
not feel their clothes either to their
physical or mental discomfort
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22
Enameled JeWelry

II RIGHT blue enamel in round spots
X is set into the solid metal with a
- delightful smoothness that Implies
durability in much of the new silver
jewelry.
Silver is a revival in the jewelers. art,
so old that il is new again. as are a
great many more little things in the
fashion world.
Buttons particularly are inlaid with
enamel Made of platinum or polished
silver. they are colored by the little
spots Of bright enamel pressed into open
ings made IN the smooth surface Just
two or three OF them on garrpent will
give an elegant touch that could not be
got by full dozen of another sort
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22
The Drawn-In Gown

TTYOMBN are still insistent in the
Nv matter OF the retention of the
w slender silhouette, and although
skirts have taken unto themselves a
more voluminous outline, there is
straight effect secured on most of the
evening or afternoon gowns by a drawn
in effect near the lower edge of the
skirt.
This Is secured in many ways. There
is a clever manipulation of the fulness
Of the tunic by gathering the edge into
deep silk or satin hem. This varies
in width, and is a straight band or a
deep-pointed fold.
The fulness of the outer skirt is also
held in by deep hem of contrasting
color and material.
Another scheme is the use of cordings
run through wide tucks. Here is the
opportunity to give the hidden color a
display on the skirt Slot ribbons en-
circling the skirt wind in and out, now
hidden beneath the folds of chiffon,
wolfe or muslin and now bursting into
bars OF color.
You see that the full skirts are made
subservient to the demands of the time,
an evidence that at last the lines of
fashion are not too compelling and that
the artistic eye is in control in the de-
Gliding of a costume
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22

young girl is the wreath of roses
worn with not-too-fiat couture, but
simple one. Leaves are often sub
stituted for the roses, and to good
effect.
With two winged ends of black
velvet, altogether suitable for an
older woman is that broad band of
black tuife wired along its edges and
studded with jet.
And last we recommend for the
more youthful one a simple fillet of
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22

gold or silver gauze with. at each end.
a large rose, made of cloth of gold
or silver.
Time was when the young girl
looked overdressed with her hair in
a fillet unless it was a very simple
affair indeed: but fashions have be-
come so much more elaborate that,
with little discrimination. 1t is quite
possible to single out many simple
enough hair ornament for the youth
full face
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22
Ornamental Pockets

DOCKETS are proving an inexhaust-
j ible mine for displaying trimming
= OF various kinds. There are the
large square shapes that are orna-
mented with braid, embroidery or but
tons, giving the decorative plastron so
much in vogue.
Then. again, there are the pointed
shapes that are frequently used when
Elanting scheme
Stitched flaps are placed on the tai
loreo suits OF severe cut: even lace is
useo on the linen costumes for ornament
~sther than for use. for II must he re-.
membered that the perfection Of line
must not be destroyed by the contents.
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22

is locket-shaped ornamental bit of in
laid metal. usually silver. Platinum
and silver are both repetitions of an
earlier fashion. and the inlaid work on
many of the modern plaques is but &
revival OF an earlier art.
The peasant note is strong. and, hap
PLY. it is we'll carried out, down to a
noticeable lowering of the heels of mi
lady's shoes.
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22
Simplicity in the Peasant Garb

some laboring woman has passed her
quiet hours at home. the thought of
which adds to our appreciation Of It's
delicacy and its curiously wrought de-
sign.
Worn with the simple seamless bodice
is the lowered neck line and the tiny
chemisette shirred to cord. again
peasant note: and the pendant, one OF
the earliest known pieces OF jewelry.
comes back to US in ia plaque" This
The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22

I'VE TURN to Paris for the pre-
w vailing coiffure, and in turn
ing we find slight but notice
able changes.
The present tendency is toward
less close mass of hair to which an
algrette or plume adds height. This
decoration is here shown worn with
jeweled band of ribbon, which may
pe gold or silver, or a color studded
gems. according to the gown.
particularly appropriate for the
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1910-05-19

from observations made here, the
earth entered the million mile broad
tail Of the comet at a speed Of slightly
more than As miles per second. At this
juneture the eminent scientists gather
ed here agreed that the passage would
occupy a period of little more than five
hours
New Workers Excited.
In New York from the four great
bridges across the East river from
the decks Of ferry boats. from pier ends
and wharves, from the islands in the
harbor, from roof tops, and for the
entire length of Riverside Drive, the
people of Manhattan swarmed and clus-
tered TO peer into the west for the IN
candescent tail Of the receding comet
Some prayed and all watched
A few carried bottles in which to seal
up the atmosphere for future analysis
What these analyses VIII show cannot
be foretold, but there were no bodily
indications OF cyanogen gas
Word received from the west that
violent disturbances had been observed
on the face OF the sun added greatly to
the curiosity OF the crowds, who rea-
soned that If the sun was susceptible,
that was cause to believe the earth
might be-
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1910-05-19
soLOMoNvILLE LOCALS.

Solomonville Ariz.. May 81 E.
Solomon is in Copper Hill, Ariz., the
guest of his son, H. T. Solomon
Master Frank Keppler is here from
Douglas, Ariz., to visit his grandmOth-
er, Mrs. Docia Judia-
W. R. Chamber, the clerk of the dis
trict court. is sick He is confined to
the house but not entirely to his bed.
He only returned on Saturday a. m.
from a trip to Grand Canyon. The al
titude was too high. He has not re-
covered from the effects Of the atlti-
tude.
Albert Stevens is taking the enumera-
ton of the school children.
Joe Terrell. of the c. c. Cattle COM
pany and former member of the board
OF supervisors is in town today.
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1910-05-19
FUNSET COMPANY
MAY Get THE CAN
Volunteer Fire Department
Gives Them a Week to
Get Together.

The Funset fire slighters are in a
fair way to be disbanded by the depart
ment. Think of the silk stocking bri-
gade" being ANONYMOUSLY fired out Of
the department. But that is exactly
what is going to happen if they do not
hold a meeting next Wednesday right
and pledge themselves to meet regular
" once a month and respond to all
alarms in their district.
The company has not held a meeting
since December. when a bare quorum
was present Two meetings have been
called since then, but there has been
no response except from a faithful one
or two. Wednesday night a meeting
was called, but only four members and
the committee from the central body
were present There was no meeting
and the committee from the department
said some things 1t was about like
this:
I'VE will give Sunset company one
more chance. Call a meeting, Mr. Sec
rotary. for next Wednesday, May 25,,
and saw TO all members that if. they
are not present, their absence viii be
considered as a resignation from the
department and the company will be
disbanded unless there is a quorum of
present members. If there is a quorum.
the company will be continued and all
absent members will be dropped from
the rolls of the department and those
present will be given a chance to re-
cruit the company to its full member
ship of 20 members"
- ms ~Ts-Othe ultimatqin- >ifre- set
fire slighters -s1dlr have to attend the
meeting next Wednesday or the COM
pany of bankers and silk Stockings will
be a thing of history.
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1910-05-19

dlemen are charging too much Tor
handling and trying to attribute the
responsibility to the farmer. The time
has gone by, however, when thrifty men
can take toll of the farmer and out OF
the consumer and fool both at the same
time"
Mr.. Hamilton charged the cheap poll
tician with singing one song in the city
and another, of different tune, in the
country. He described the situation as
filled with contradictions. everybody
pickering to locate the blame for high
prices.
Voting Discomfort.
-@A-&Bills. resolutions. Investigations,
commissions, boycots, anti-meat So
cieties. antt-egg societies. and-food
trust ana. vegetarian organizations are
rampant and in the midst OF 1t the
Democratic \men, after time honored
custom, are diligently trying to con-
vert discomfort into votes.
Golden AEe of Spotlight.
I'VE are getting farther away from
the old Fundamental human relations
that sustain and consOFe 1oIKs- we are
always going somewhere and gong
very fast and generally go our ways
separately, although we josUe one an
other on the sidewalk 1t is an age u
steam enginism. We run the Racnlne
the street today becomes the law To-
morrow. Politics means parties, pax
ties the people and parties have 10 have
leaders and chief priests and scribes and
pharisees and camp followers
This is the golden age Of the spot
light, opera bouffe, whirling dervish
form of politician who leads for while
but the true leader must build success
on fundamental right
The Cold Sfogare Problem.
Discussing INSCRIPTIONS dealers and
the segregation of food supplies, Mr..
Hamilton declared the cold storage sys-
tenn made it possible, if not customary.
for the frozen remains of an ancestor
to remain in cold suspense until its
progeny had grown TO middle age and
then for them TO meet in fricassed re-
union on some bill of fare, both as
strictly fresh. The unmaternal incuba-
tor had become the mother of the
chicken.
There shall not grow up among US,
concluded Mr.. Hamilton. "a privileged
class above the law. This government
shall wisely control men and assocla-
lions of men. The government shall not
fail of its mission among men,"
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1910-05-19

Continued From Page Cne.)
tion of the protection policy He at
tributed the high cost of living to in
crowding supply, to extravaganza of
feverish generation and to almost
everything else but the tariff.
Wants Tariff Revision.
Mr.. Hamilton is chairman of the ter
ritories committee of the house and his
speech is likely to figure conspicuously
in the next Republican national cam
paign propa ganda- He favored the ere
alton of q bureau in the department Of
commerce and labor to permanently
carry on the work now being done by
the tariff board, supplementing it with
n corps of foreign speaking experts
the reports of whose Investigations OF
selling prices and labor costs at home
and abroad would furnish a standard
of measure of conflicting claims in the
framing of a tariff law.
He contended that the tariff plank in
the Republican platform provided both
upward and downward limits and that
by so much as you raise duties above
the difference in cost of production at
home and abroad, after due allowance
for the foreign custom Of selling goods
cheaper abroad than at home, by so
much you permit domestic monopolies
to ovecharge domestic consumers
Our Factory Output.
I'VE now have 100000 factories, en-
ploying 100000 people, keeping time
TO the demands of 90, 100000 folks" he
continued The protection policy has
built up an annual factory output of
$4,000, 006,0 900. paying out s3.0OO,90O,OO0
in wages and has kept the machinery Of
protection IN motion until 1t has de-
veloped horsepower equivalent to
90, OOO,0 600 men. The country never was
more prosperous
The farmer has been caricatured by
cheap city humorists, preyed on by
grasshoppers, locusts and money sharks,
and misled by predatory politicians
Now he has come into his own and 1 am
glad Of it. He is one of the safest,
soundest, cleanest elements in our civil
ization. The city would have dried up,
rotted or exploded but for the country
that came into town day before yes
terday-
Too Many in Town
s'Too much of the country has been
coming into town though. The farmer
is receiving only a fair price but mid
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1910-05-19
and also a large number Of lower class

and also large number of lower class
students
The class established a record in
that the entire membership, number
ing %, were awarded certificates of pro-
motion. They are:
Anna May Allen, Hattie Armstrong,
Verda Barnes, Ruby Bennett, James
Boyd. Pearl Ruth, Dorothy Congdon, Luz
Gle Cooper, Verne Dalton, Ruy DarnaIl,
Blanche Gaul, Bessie Gilson Jack Haw-
kins. Ashton Hawkins. Dean Harper,
john House, Hildegarde Howell, Rose
mary Hall, Ramiee Jusgjohonor Frank
London, Joe Oechsner, William Race,
Clair Ruby. Florence Sanders, Shelby
Shive Ray Sidebothem, Curtis Will
liams, Henry Woodbridge, Ina York.
The auditorium was decorated with
the school colors. yellow and green. the
blackboards were also decorated. The
stage was banked with evergreens.
The graduation program, given I'M
der the direction of Miss Alice F1tz-
patrick, principal. included a piano solo
by Miss Blanche Gaul a defamation by
John House, whose subject was The
Urion; a piano duet ty Miss Mignon
Cannon and Miss Hildegarde Howell;
also vocal selections by Miss Dorothy
Congdon, who has a pleasing voice.
One of the interesting features of the
program was a debate on the subject:
Resolved, that public service corpora
lions should be controlled by the pub
lie for the public benefit" which was
decided il favor OF the affirmative, rep
resented by Clair Ruby and Curtis Will
liams. The opposing orators were Shell
by Shive and Harold Detwiler. The
judges were J. II. Harper Miss Flor
ence Goddard and G. B. Cady.
An address by Rev P. J. Rice, pastor
OF the First Christian church, was also
given He advised the graspipg of ev-
cry opportunity presenting itself,
stating there is no future that has not
/ its roots in the present" The building
and maintaining of character was also
urged upon all
The musical features of the program
included several chorus selections by
the eighth grade pupils
Following the exercises, an informal
reception was given by the teachers Of
the school, at which Miss Congdon gave
other pleasing vocal selections.
El Paso herald. (El Paso, Tex.) 1901-1931, 1910-05-19
RAIN FALLS IN
DEMING SECTION
Canning Factory on Mimbres
River Building Many
Land Entries.

Denning, n. NJ, May ia heavy
shower of rain fell in Deming yesterday
The rain was heavier at Dwyer and at
Lake Valley.
j. E. Snyder, a Socialist organizer,
is here and will speak tonight.
Senator J. n. Upton reports that the
foundations are laid for his canning
factory, which is located up the MIN
bres. This factory will have a capacity
of about 80, 600 cans a day, and VIII
handle the fruit and vegetables grown
in the pMimbres country
s. J. Smith has completed his big well
il, miles south of Deming, and will in
sta his pump and engine shortly. Mr..
Srnits is developing large ACREAGE and
intends !, Ttting it into fruit and alfalfa.
P. E. Smith and Hattie NJ. Beatty,
both lately fro Texas, were married at
the Methodist pare 7age They are now
living in their new 'oIne a few miles
south of Deming.
Judge F. ". Parker Ieff< Deming after
. sborf stay here. There was no regular
term of court held. but Judge Parker
while here rendered judgments II. fe-
Enquent tax cases, and attended~~e
minor matters for members OF the bar in
cases which did not require iuries.
The following Cinnamon viii be tried
for deportation before L. S. commission
er McKeyes on the 9th: Jew Sam, Snu
Wing, Lung GwOng
Last weeks record in the land office
al, De1ning shows that the following per
sons made homestead entries: Ralph c.
Spencer, Jas. T. Brown, Annie S. Smith,
Thomas Tominson, Jas. WestOver- The
following persons made desert land en-
tries: Ernest d. Smith. Henry l. Nc
Roberts. Annie L. Teel. Thos. L. Story
Sophia Moore made final commute ton
proof. The following contests were
filed: Maggie Warren VS.. Helen Lewis,
Ramsey vs.. Donohue, Patterson vs.
Gidewell. Rutherford VS.. WaddiH, Lane
VS.. George, Taylor VS.. George