Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-08-09
At THE BORDER OF CHINA
WHERE RUGS COME FROM

Women Sit at Looms All Day Long
in Miserable Mud Huts-Holy
Men Nuisance.
BY WILLIAM f.. CURTIS.
Special Correspondence Of The Star and the
Chicago Record Herald.
ANDIJAN. Turkestan, July 6, 1910
The present terminus Of the Central
Asia railroad Is the ancient city of Andi-
jan, at the foot of the Alai mountains
on the borders Of the Chinese province
of Tien Shan Nan Lu, on the same
parallel of longitude as Bombay. Where
the future terminus of this railway may
be is a problem. The track can be laid
no farther eastward without crossing
the Tfan Shan range Of mountains
which would be very difficult and expen-
sive. 1t is likely that the government
of Russia would adopt more practical
right of way and build southeastward
through Afghanistan, as l described the
other day, from Bokhara or Merv, to
connect with the India railway system,
or northeastward TO connect with the
trans-Siberian line from Tashkend.
to tho eastward without equipping a
scientist, Col. o. H. Crosby of Washing
ton and other adventuresone explorers
of Tibet have fitted out their expeditions
here. There are large herds Of cameis
engaged tn transportation over the noun
tains to the important Chinese cities OF
Kashgar and Yarkand. and the stores
of Andijan are well stocked with sup
plies; but it is a difficult and danger
GUS undertaking for European or
white man to enter those mountains
without a military escort, as both the
gentlemen named can testify, and it Is
a hard road to travel even then.
Himalayas Lie Beyond.
In sight of Andijan are several lofty
peaks. Mount Kaufman, rising 5000
feet, being the chief of a splendid bat
talon. On the Chinese side of the range
Mount Tagharama. 5000 feet, is sur
rounded by several lesser peaks and be-
yond it are the Himalayas and the ranges
of Cashmere.
Andijan is the wealthiest and most i'm
portant city east of Tashkend, the center
Of large oasis or irrigated district,
which produces marvellous crops Of cot
ton. 1t is practically a rainless region,
but abounds in mountain streams moving
from glaciers and the melting snow upon
the peaks. and the soil is so fertile that 1t
is only necessary to talk about water to
see things grow. This section is develop
Ing more rapidly than any other part OF
Turkestan because 1t is easier and less
expensive to build irrigating systems than
in the desert farther away from the
sources Of water supply, and more land
is being added to the cultivated area
than In any other part Of central Asia.
The railway reached here in 1892 and
for several years thereafter Andijan ex-
perienced something like an American or
Canadian BOOM although the government,
as I have explained in previous letters,
does not permit promiscuous emigration
and does not encourage people to come
here to look for a living. They must
bring something with them Or have con-
tracts for employment. The natives, who
are called Sarts. like those of Samar-
kand and Taslikand. grow more and
you approach the borders of that empire.
and their features-hat noses. high
cheek bones and narrow slanting eyes
leave no doubt of their Mongol origin.
Their dialect contains many Chinese
words. showing the influence of that
race, and the chai-khana, or teahouse, is
found on every corner.
Thousands Of Tea Shops.
The consumption Of tea throughout Rus
STA is very large, but we see, for the
first time, little shops like cafes exclu-
sively for tea drinking. There are thou
sands Of them In the bazaars. They are
merely little holes in the wall. with rugs
spread on the foor. samovars letting on
steam in the corners and rows or
different qualities of the herb, from
which the patrons help themselves. 1t is
surprising the amount of tea one can
purchase for a penny. Glasses are used
instead of teacups, as In Russia
called numerals. which
means lodging houses. having licenses
from, the police for the entertainment OF
strangers, and each has number by
which it is known more generaiiy tnan
room. but meals are served in bedrooms
at any hour il ordered a considerable
time in advance. Guests are expected to
furnish their own bedding and towels
The house provides the bedstead-usually
a simple iron camp affair-and a husk
mattress.
Andiian is the headquarters of a large
band OF Mohammedan dervishes. called
Ishans, who go about the streets begging
and sit at the street corners to pray for
nssserby. 1t Is considered a sacrilege
for any one to refuse them aims. They
are regarded as holy men. and, although
they are filthy, repulsive-looking crea-
lures. who never battle or even wash
their hands or faces, and allow their
long hair to become matted with grease
and Nth, they are treated with profound
reverence by all classes. The natives
fear their curses as much as the plague.
These creatures come from Afghanistan
and often from India, and tramp from
town to town begging. They bring their
collections to headquarters at Andijan.
and the money is supposed to be for
varded from here to the monasteries OF
the sect at Herat or Cabul.
Earthquake Followed Hanging.
Several years ago the chief OF these
Ishans was accused OF plotting against |
the government. 1t is claimed that I'M
der his direction the itinerant dervishes
attempted to organize a conspiracy to
massacre the Russian garrison. He was
arrested and hanged. and his followers
fed to hiding places throughout the coun-
try. finding refuge in the houses of fanat-
ical Mohammedans.
Shortly after this episode on the night |
of December 49, 1902, Andijan was almost
entirely destroyed by an earthquake |
Three-fourths Of the buildings were over |
thrown or their contents ruined. and all
the villages in the neighborhood were
either entirely or partially DESTROYED. 1t
Is estimated that more than $50 lives
were lost In this district. The houses
were rebuilt at once, for the walls were