The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-11-27
CUTTING UP THE SKIRT LINE
YA6ARfFS OF FASHION THAT
ENTERT tIN PARIS.
After the Robbie Have Come siashrd
Effects and Fishtaii Arrangements Of
the Train Piauant Dashe> of Color
"a 60 the Turh i<h TrouSpr skirt.

Luckily the most exaggerated phases
seldom survive 10 reach America. II
- in Paris that they are born and that
women have the audacty to exploit them
II nv some chance the ii-a spreads until
IL finds considerable acceptance women
pick II MP here and very probably hurry
IL 10 a sp,-'dy and violent death by over
popularity and carlcature
The hobble skirt and the narrow skirt
without the hobbling have had their
way in America a. IN France. though
n study of the costumes worn by the
-martest American women during Horse
Show week revealed little that was
Conspicuo,Isly extreme IN tins regard.
Skirts were straight and narrow. but tn"
Spectacular eSagSsratOnS w.r" seen not
upon the well known women hut upon
promenaders who were not exchanging
emiles and salutations with the occupants
Of the boxes.
As for the vagar.s Of skirt bott ON
line which have been entertaining Paris
not a trace Of them was observed save
in the case OF one very charming frock
worn at an evening session which had
a close straight skirt II black tull" en-
broidered in jet and silver and quit.
separate train 81 black satin falling like
q wide panel from a shortened waist
line and trailing Just a little in curious
narrow fshtail arrangement
There We're skirts buttOned over at
sides or front with an open slash below
the closing. but in every cas-. this open
ing even il merely a small one. was filled
in by contrasting material
And, by the way. this contrasting
material often provides violent contrast
~ color IA well "a Of material Some Of
the smartest short frocks worn in IN"
afternoon had one piece TUNES falling
rather low but showing a skirt of another
color. For example. a delightful littl.
frock Of what seemed TO ba black serge.
though il may have been Of som. other
light weight black wool. was made with
a very simple Magyar bodice and straight
narrow tunic. hnttoning over AZ the
sides and falling to within foot - the
skirt bottom.
This tunic was trimmed with braidnz
II soft. rather large black silk cord and
black buttons The skirt was 81 the vivid
We, soft green hroadCloth. quite plain save
for three inch border Of dark fur Their.
was no fur elsewhere and no other touch
Of green guimra and sleeve finish showing
only fine whit" net and little N.nisa
Another skirt with striking and piquant
dash Of color was n part of very dark
blue serge. The dark hlue reached To- tn"
skirt bottom on rhe left side but was cut
M sharply in middl" front and middle
back for twelve or fourteen inches and
shortened this much all around tho right
side. showing n plain hroadclo'h skirt of
The beautiful new rose tone. Heavy
hraidings in salf-tone trimmed tho dark
blue tunic bottom Of the left side To n
depth little greater than the ros. show
ing on the right side and a three inch
hand n il borderad rho blue above tho
rose colorof the right side
Ri. all this ia stoldly conservative,
compared with som. ~ the skirt bottom
effects with which experiment is being
made In Paris. The irregular skirt line
ree seems 20 be buzzing in many dress
makers honnets. and though rhare il no
likelihood that any % thu whimsical ideas
will find acceptance save among an auia-
cio,Ia few some Of the most bizarre OK
periments are vouched for by famous
makers.
The skirt bottom rounded up 70 n sharp
point front and back il perhaps tho most
popular version Of the irregular bottom
Iine. and since this point Is not deep.
merely showing the instep II il NOT er-
treme enough TO offend conservative
tastes. The line allows more freedom in
q very narrow skirt than does the straight
bottom line. and correspondents declare
that in connection with pretty feet and the
snartest - foot wear this skirt bottom j.
really attractive.
Another version puts the c,it up point
on the sides instead OF in the front and
back. and this when conservative il not
objectionable. but does not show the foot
and shoe as effectively A. does the front
opening In Some models this side opan-
ing II not rounded mp into point but ia
merely a shallow slash or opening Of a
seam. closing when the wearer il stand
ing still and parting when she walks.
Two Of the sketches show recent e1-.
periments in the lin" of tn. side and front
openings both skirts being Of exaggeraie ed
narrowness so that without the opening
they would make walking a difficult feat
Naturally the whole skirt in such narrow
models must be quite short. showing the
shoe frankly and the open point must
needs reveal the ankle.
OF the Turkish tro,iser skirt much has
been said and though in soft full folds Of
material il ~ not so bad "A II sounds il
Of course belongs distinctly 10 me freak
class. This skirt. though necessarily Of
sone fulness. must he OF material 70 limp
that il will fall very narrow and strait ht
In line. Caught together b.r~een IN.
feet IL leaves two soft. clinging troI-.r
bottoms which drape about tn. ankles.
but are full enough not 70 separate very
p~rceptibly in movement.
Less sensational than these short skirt
,,,
their manifestations. are the unusual train
arrangements appearing. TIL" worst Of
these. from conventional standards. il
the model quite short in front and dipping
10 a short train in the back. which may Ne
sharply pointed. rounded. fshtail or
square
In the model pictured here an odd
triple point effect IN secured by assOciat.
l. - L. -.-.- Il L. L.