davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

ports which are always used to keep the
stock trinity up on the neck. A sloppy
collar is an abomination and every lin
gerie blouse of this character should be
well provided with featherbone strips or
be basted over one Of the light chiffon
and featherbone collar foundations.
Oriental effects are the craze just now.
and the newest blouses to match COL
ored suits of serge and mohair have all
an oriental touch. Sometimes the ma
terial is Persian silk. trimmed with bands
in plain color; sometimes in very dressy
bIouses, the gay silk is yelled with chif-
fon, the whole effect blending with the
color OF the suit. Some very pretty
waists are of plain colored pongee, with
trimming bands of Persian silk in bright
color, pipings of black being introduced
to tone down the gay patterns. A little
blouse of this sort, chosen for wear with
a tobacco brown serge travelling suit,
was OF natural colored pongee. cut in the
simple peasant style, with sleeves all
in one and shoulder or arm seams.
The blouse came quite high about the
throat and the rounded edge was I'm
ished with a twO-inch circle of Persian
silk in dull red, orange and brown tones.
Similar bands edged the loose peasant
sleeve, and down the front of the blouse
was a row of frogs" made of cords
covered with Persian silk stretched across
and caught under similarly covered but
tons. Below the loose sleeves hung short
cuffs of cream net, and there was a little
yoke, also of the net.
/ A blouse of this kind is delightfully."-
easy to fashion, and, providing the selec-
ton of colors is clever, is particularly
smart and in line with the mode just
now.
Another pongee blouse that is worthy
of mention is illustrated today. Pongee
makes a delightful shirt waist fabric in
that it is SO cool and 1aunders so salts
factorily Lace should not be inserted
in such blouse, but may be used as a
finish in pleated frills-as in the case of
| the pongee blouse just referred to. This
model, as will be seen, is cut with ut
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

dry. For the fruit, have ready four
pounds raisins seeded and quartered and
dredged with flour, three pounds of cur
rants or their equivalent in dates, igs
or prunes soaked and slightly cooked
then chopped: pound of citron shaved q
fine as possible, one-half pound ground
almonds, and half pound each candied
lemon and orange peel shredded, For
the moisture have measured out one cur
confectioner's molasses two-thirds Of
cup rich fruit sirup from preserved straw
the grated rind and juice Of one lemon
and one orange. A half gill of brandy
may be added or not as preferred. Having
creamed the butter and sugar add twelve
unbeaten eggs. one at a time. using the
hands to beat them in instead of spoon
When well blended add part OF the LIQUID
then part of the flour mixture. When ali
have been used beat in a half teaspoon.
full soda dissolved in little warm water.
and then mix in all the fruit excepting the
citron. When thoroughly blended, nut a
half-inch layer of the batter In q pan
that has been lined with several thick
nesses OF paper. taking care that the
paper comes we'll above the edge Of the
citron shavings, then another layer of the
batter and citron, having the last layer
of the dough. Cover closely and set
away over night. In the morning bake
five hours in steady, moderate oven.
protecting the top Of the cake with paper
till sufficiently risen, or steam, then bake.
When partially cooled ice with the white
of one egg beaten stiff with confectioner's
sugar. When this is cooled and harden.
ed the decorative icing may be applied.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORn
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
Fashions and Fads.
Many colored waists are seen.

Many colored waists are seen.
Many of the large black hats are trim
med with supple ribbon bows of broad
ivory white taffeta. Large blue hats and
toques have bows of silk ribbon of
creamy white.
Sashes again on lingerie gowns is the
latest order. They encircle the waist,
are knotted at the side and hang down
in ends reaching nearly to the hem of
the skirt. E,
Many of the coats to suits, short coats
for separate wear and long travelling
coats of lightweight fabrics are attrac-
lively lined with figured foulard. usually
of blue and white.
In place of the narrow stitching char
acteriStic of the short glove of last sea-
son. the long silk glove now worn has
wide embroidery on the back in self color
or in black.
The tied-in effect has given way to the
banded-in idea. Wide bands draw in the
fullness of tunic or skirt toward the bot
tom. This is striven for even on the fancy
tailored suits.
So popular is the frill or plating at the
left of the front of the shirt waist that
blouses which fasten in the back are
given the blouse closing effect by means
of dainty accessories.
A very interesting trimming shows tin
sci cord balls. strung on heavy soutache.
knotted at intervals. This is especially
fashionable as an edge, as it Stimulates
the ball fringes without being pendant.
The jabot is a long frill and gives
length; the rabat is a fiat little tab which
lends an air of doctrinal severity to the
prettiest face; the plisse is the side frill,
the most popular of all this summer.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

most simplicity. a few pleats on the
shoulder giving fullness. One front laps
across to the left and is notched out In
tab or ''battlement" effect. these tabs
being heavily buttonholed before the cut
ting is done. In each tab is set bit
of hand embroidery. and between lie
tabs are crochet buttons. Under the en-
broidery scallops thus formed Is set q
fluffy frill Of pleated cream lace and this
is matched by little batiste and lace turn
overs on collar and cuffs. This blouse -
exquisitely dainty and refined in type.
and might be copied in pale blue or Law
ender pongee or in cotton crepe with
equally good effect.
With every smart coat and skiFtsOu1A
should be provided at. least one ~
pecially dressy waist that WIN an0Wa4
for cool afternoons and restaurant a.
ner wear. Such Dlouses are not always
practical in the warmest weather wAaa3
only a washable material will not ID
ruined by dust and the moisture a
the body.
Two dressy blouses are illuGSEUoo6
One is designed for wear with Q ooo3
and skirt suit Of light wool mato1aeA
and is built Of chiffon with trfmmsn9u
embroidered in color on hne net n
Imitation of the Russian bandings %
fashionable this season. Motifs Of pas-
sementerie also make this model par
ticularly dressy in type. The chiffon
and passementerie trimming u Of q
color that matches the wool skirt and
the embroidered trimmings are in soft
blended tones harmonizing with this
color. The blouse is mounted over
white chiffon and the little yoke and
cuffs are Of white Irish lace
Another blouse, not quite so elab-
crate in detail, is intended for wear
with a simple gray mohair coat and
skirt. and Is made Of gray net braided
all over with a bold design in self
colored soutache. There are two sec
tons to this blouse the outer slip
being worn over a guimpe laid In fine
pin tucks. A lining of very thin Chi
nese silk is worn beneath ALL
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
\ VERY woman instinctively loves
cretonne. There is something
fresh. charming, suggestive Of
4 breezy, old-fashioned bedroom

cretonne. There is something
~ fresh, charming, suggestive Of
breezy, old-fashioned bedroom
in the pretty, Powered stuff, and
It is SO delightfully."- easy to achieve ar
tistic results with a trifiing outlay OF
money.
In the country home cretonnes may run
riot Here there is no danger of inter-
fering with the studied, interior effects
produced with more costly hangings and
upholsteries, and hosts of gay little Gre
tonne-trimmed contrivances and conven-
fences may be added 70 brighten and
beautify the rooms.
Every guest room should be provided
with laundry bag made OF cretonne to
match the hangings and cushions; also
witffra shoe bag, which may be fastened
with gilt headed tachs to the inside or
the closet door. Paper and string bags
are especially useful, and should be made
OF cretonne with seams neatly bound
with colored tape. These bags are large
and deep, so that big sheets of wrapping
paper folded in four, will easily fit inside.
There are two sections TO the paper and
string bag-a back and a front and these
are cut at the top into sharp point. A
brass ring is attached to each point, and
the bag Is hung on nail from these
rings. When a bit of wrapping paper Is
To be thrust inside the front of the bag
IFS .ring is slipped off the hook and re-
ENLISTED after the insertion of the wrap
ping paper. On the front section OF the
bag is stitched square pocket Tor the
bits !, of Irvine which are removed from
packages and rolled over the nnger INTO
a compact wad.
In making shoe and slipper bags Of Gre
tonne care should be taken TO nave
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

ficult in construction for the amateur to
attempt, but they are to be had in most
of the large shops for very little cost
and the cretonne patterns used will match
almost any color scheme chosen for the
bedroom
Travelling aprons of cretonne offer a
suggestion to the woman looking for
piazza needlework. These aprons are de-
signed to tie on during the hasty toilet
made in the dressing room of a sleeping
car, and there are pockets for comb and
brush, manicure outfit powder, hand mir
ror and all the other little necessities
for a dainty toilet en- route. When the
toilet has been made the bag may be
rolled up and tucked, with all its para
phernalia into the dressing bag. The
striped cretonnes with small patterns are
prettiest for these aprons and the pockets
may be attached with strips Of colored
tape neatly featherstitched in place.
Shoeboxes which may be placed under
the windows as low seats are also most
attractive for the country bedroom. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
M4ZL~(QZYTzNZXZEZNCgs
mace or CRZZI2ZZ?.ZZ'

fences supplying space for the guest S
wardrobe so that her trunk may be sent
to the storeroom and not stand, an UNI
slightly blot in the dainty prettiness OF
the guestroom.
Trinket boxes for the dresser, in the
shape of small chests or drawers. are
very ornamental, and host of little be-
longings may be slowed within the small
receptacles: bits of jewelry in the small
err drawers at the top, handkerchief,
wells. gloves and such small items in the
drawers beneath. In this manner all the
little things that are forever littering up
the top dresser drawer may be kept in
convenient tidiness and the top drawer
reserved for ones finer blouses
These trinket cases are little too diff
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

crisp, with none of the soft lines they
had when new. Clever laundresses who
know their business never touch starch to
batiste or null blouse, but dip in gum
arabic water. or, better still, in much
diluted gelatine water. which gives just
the soft, yet satisfactory finish which
new fabric has.
Batiste, cotton null, chiffon batiste and
very sheer French lawn are used for the
simple, dainty b1ouses worn with tailored
| linen suits. All-over embroidered null is
another material in high favor, and this
fabric makes particularly dressy waists.
An embroidered null blouse is shown
among the illustrations. and this little
| shirt waist has all the hallmarks Of the
new seasons styles; the Dutch neck fin
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

an, invited informally to friends coun-
Try house for over Sunday, and not to
the fashionable person who requires two
trunks. hatbox and maid to fill her
needs during three-day stay at zig
country house.
There are few afternoon or evening
occasions in summer time where a lin
gerie frock in elaborate and dainty style
will not he quite a dressy enough COS
tune: and very few morning occasions,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

or afternoon events in the way or
driving, club meets and the like where
a smart linen suit will not be perfectly
correct. The half dozen shirt waists COM
pleting the outfit may range from grave
TO CAV from lively to severe in style, and
meet the requirement of every prooabie
need.
No matter what the dressmakers-to
whose interest it is, of course, TO e
nounce the separate waist-may predict
each season, the shirt waists bob UP Sc
renely each summer prettier than ever
In fact, like the poor, the summer shirt
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
Menus Suited to June Fes-
tivities.

A June Wedding Breakfast.
Fruit cocktail.
Cream of green kern.
Olives. Sailed almonds. Radish roses.
Lobster la Newburg
lin casserolpttes).
Rroiled SQUAD chicken.
Compete OF pineapples.
Potatoes duchesse.
Lettuce and tomato salad.
Parfait aux marrons;
Assorted cakes. Brides cake.
ApoIlnaris.
Coffee.
Wedding Supper.
Iced bouillon.
Olive and cream cheese sandwiches.
Ham sandwiches.
Lobster salad.
Olives. Sailed nuts. Bonbons.
Ice cream. Assorted cakes.
Brides cake.
Coffee or chocolate frappe.
Commencement Luncheon.
Strawberry cocktail.
Cream Of tomato soup with bread.
Chicken patties Green peas
Salmon salad. Cheese.
Ice cream. Fancy cakes
Sailed nuts. Bonbons.
Chocolate.
A Rose Luncheon.
Tomato bOuillon-
Dreamed lobster in rosettes.
Radishes cut in rose shapes.
Candied rose leaves.
Broiled lamb chops with paper rosettes.
Potato roses.
Tomato roses on lettuce.
La France rose ice cream.
Rose cakes. Rose Shefbet.
Garden Party RefreshIna nts.
Rose petal sandwiches.
Chicken salad sandwiches.
Ices. Angel cakes with rose leaves.
Sherbet.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

necessary to fit each shoe within. The
bag should also be fastened firmly 10 the
closet door or wall, both along the top
and at the lower edge.
Another convenience which the occu-
pant of the guestroom particularly APP
preciates is the cretonne hatboX. The
ordinary pasteboard hatbox may be cover
ed with cretonne matching the room
hangings and lined inside with pale pink
or some other dainty color. ribbons being
provided to tie the cover securely on the
box and keep every particle of dust from
the hat inside. Shirt waist boxes may be
made in the same way; all such conven-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
may be used il preferred, but it should
be cooked in a rich strip and served hot.
inexpensive Decorations for Home
Weddings and Other Festivities.

inexpensive Decorations for Home
Weddings and Other Festivities.
Out in the country at this season there
are acres and acres Of star-eyed daisies
and white and red clover to be had for
the picking.
| In the woods the branches of laurel
are laden with their wealth Of pink and
| white blossoms. In old home gardens
| there are snowballs and roses, syringes.
sweet William and Spirea, peonies and
| larkspur. while along country lanes and
roadsides elder bushes bend gracefully
| low with their creamy cymes and the
| sweetbriar roses nod to every passing
| breeze. A clover wedding is one Of the
| prettiest things imaginable. while one
| where the elder blossom predominates is
| not only charming to look at, but, accord
| ing to German belief, carries good luck
with 1t. AS every one likes to give a
helping hand at wedding, write to all
your country friends or your fortunate
town friends with old-fashioned gardens
to send you in all the flowers they can
spare or give the time to gather. Ask the
girl friends or the bride to arrange the
flowers. II the ceremony is to be morn
ing affair. the flowers can be placed over
night. then sprinkled. Bank the mantels.
garland the pictures, wind the grill work
between the rooms with vines and bios
SONS and AL every jar and pitcher with
| erence. Make a large low mound Of the
blossoms for the center of the serving
table and tiny ones for each small table.
Clover or wild strawberry leaves and run
ners are decorative when encircling the
central jardiniere or they may be run
from the center to each cover.
Pointers in Serving Refreshments.
A sunrise marriage. followed by a
porch breakfast, Is not common nor
adapted to large entertaining. For a
quiet home wedding where an early train
has to be made or a steamer caught 1t
is both pretty and suggestive of the old
Chaldean and Indian sun worshipers, who
believed they greeted in the sunrise the
coming good.
For this early breakfast simple Ar
cadian fare is most appropriate. Straw
berries on the stem. brock trout or fried
chicken with watercress and creamed po-
tatoes, wafaes or baking powder biscuit.
with honey, and coffee, fragrant and
rich. with real country cream. will be
best. II wedding Ia celebrated at noon
wedding breakfast follows. If the
ceremony is set for o'clock a buffet
luncheon is served which need be no
more elaborate than an afternoon tea
and still be in good taste. II the even
ing sees the knot tied a supper or COLA
wedding breakfast the guests are usually
seated. though a buffet luncheon, Euro
pean style, is quite admissible If there
are plenty of servants to remove soiled
dishes and serve the viands.
In the Matter of Cakes.
Aside from the brides cake. which
may be either the imposingly decorated
white or black fruit cake. everything is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

small and of fashion so that it can
be handled without soiling gloves or fin
gers. Usually the cakes are made in
sheets. then iced and cut in squares,
triangles or cubes. Angel cake with hard
icing goes particularly we'll this way. and
can be decorated with candied cherries.
candied rose leaves, candied violets, clo-
yer blossoms or elder flowers.
While most brides prefer to cut their
own wedding cake as a pretty touch OF
sentiment, the fashion of distributing
small slices of the cake daintily boxed
! prevails almost universally For this pur-
pose an extra cake is baked and left UNI
frosted. then packed in tiny boxes ready
for each guest as he leaves the house.
While some of these brides boxes are
very expensive, as witness the 500 white
satin heart.shaped boxes. valued at
So 900, which were distributed at the
Gould-Drexel wedding, there are very
pretty ones made of white pasteboard
and lined with lace paper that sell as
low as cents each.
Occupying a middle ground between
!! these extremes in expense and dainty
boxes, oblong, square or heart-shaped.
covered with pure white kid or egg
shell paper, the latter being the newer
1t gets its name from its fine grain and
cake is wrapped in paraff1n paper, then
in tinfoH. and is cut to fit the box ex-
actly. In the center of the boxes are the
inter-twined initials of the bride and
groom, In either gold. silver or white,
and usually in Roman script. These
raised or embossed monograms vary in
size from a quarter Of an inch or more
in height. The boxes are tied with white
satin ribbon from a quarter to half
inch In width. If the box is rectangular
in shape the ribbon, little less than a
half yard in length, is tied around the
box on either end. There are no hard
and fast rules about tying these ribbons
so each bride is at liberty to select the
knot she likes the best. AS it requires
deft fingers to give these knots an artis-
tic touch. the brides girl friends are
sometimes called upon to join in a rib
bon-tying bee. This. of course, where
everything Is done at home.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

of today is the despair of the laundress;
for while muslin dipped in starch water
is most easily and quickly ironed, it takes
careful work to made limp, wet null
blouse look fresh and dainty. This is the
reason ignorant laundresses send home
ones carefully handmade and embrold-
cred shirt waists aggravatingly stiff and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

HE woman who
can pack in her
suitcase a lingerie
frock, a smart
linen suit and half
a dozen dainty
washable blouseS is
equipped for almost
any contingency ia
an ordinary week
end visit. This, Of
course, refers to
the average wom-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

VERY year comes
some new little
wrinkles in enter
tanning that give
the stamp OF indi-
yiduality. This year
there Is g. new
soup that Is con-
sidered extremely
smart, as we'll as
wholesome. It IL
made Of kern, a
German importa-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

waist we have always with us. But each
season brings some little, important style
change that marks the blouse individually
as new; and no woman ever mistakes
last years shirt waist for one with this
years hallmark upon it.
Materials have grown finer and thinner
and softer and limper, until the blouse
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

the pockets large enough for the easy in
sertion of the footwear. 1t is most an
moving to find the pockets in the shoe bag
evidently designed by neat hostess for
ones use so small that two hands are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
A Reliable Wedding Cake Recipe.

The fruit should be prepared the day
before making the cake Cream together
one pound unsalted butter and one pound
of sugar. Sift together a pound of
pastry flour and q teaspoonful each Of
cloves, cinnamon. mace and nutmeg. and
Q saltspoonful of salt and set near the
fire where the -four will be thoroughly
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

Not only is the chantecler coloring seen
in everything, in hats, coats and suits
but the form Of the bird is also appear.
ing. The latest device is the form woven
very black, with fine mesh face veil
Little girls are wearing hats that have
departed from the simplicity that has
been so popular. A mass of lace ana friils
crowns little ones heads, no matter how
plain the coat and dress may be.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
A Composite Wedding Cake.

At recent wedding the brides cake
contained besides its own special COM
ponent parts. small portions of the wed
ding cakes of the brides father and
mother, her sisters and brothers, as well
as the silver and golden wedding cakes
of the grandparents.
In the wedding cake which the bride
cuts. there are usually hidden a gold
ring, a thimble. a dime. a raisin and
other tokens desired. These are wrapped
In paraff1n paper, and the one receiving
the ring is properly expected to be the
next bride. The thimble foretells spin
sterhood. the dime. wealth in prospect,
and the raisin an unannOunced engage
ment.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

ton of green wheat. It Is served with
tiny toasted croutons and just a sus-
picion of finely minced parsley sprinkled
over each plate as served.
Hot Pineapple Compete.
Hawaiian sliced pineapple heated in its
own strip and served with the game or
meat course is another novelty, but one
generally approved. The fresh pineapple
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28
In the Matter Of Cakes.

Aside from the brides cake. which
may be either the imposingly decorated
white or black fruit cake, everything is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-28

Important Hallmarks
That Bring the
Blouse Up to Sea-
son-Heavy Laces
on Blouses Of airy
Fineness A w a y
With Unconforta-
bic Long Sleeves
Now Oriental
Blouses Fashions
Latest Cry.