Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-10

height and with small but well-rounded
figure. Tire froCk Is a masterpiece of
color. which is not surprising. since Poiret
is the Acknowledged master colorfst of
the fashion world today. There Is
ciose-fitting underbody OF bluish-pink
satin. which springs TO slight fullness
at the knee. over this are disposed two
tunics of bluish-lavender chiffon, each
finished with wonderful band OF oriental
embroidery in tarnished gold. picked ont
with dark blue and 6ulf wine. The bod
leo portion is OF slrplice folds, which
extend over tho shoulders 10 form the el-
bow sleeves. gold cord girdle with
short ends finished with gold acorns
marks the high waist lire, The SHIN
mering changing color effects or this
gown are Understandable. The prospective
says that tho beauty OF her wedding
frock itself pales before this sunset
coloring.
Calloi. by the way, has designed re-
markablc wedding gown for autumn
brides. quite departure from the con-
ventional white satin. This is OF pure
empire type. a white satin slip that fairly
encases the body 1t is so tight, and full
length overdress of bonnie lace. The over
dress opens IN the front and reaches TO
the skirt hem. The bodice and wrist
length sleeve are OF the lace, the guimpe
collarless. but covering the base OF the
throat in conventional bridal fashion. A
girdie OF white satin ribbon finishes the
high waist line. and along the top Of this
is set a row of orange blossoms. SO much
for the dress proper. There Is a detach-
able court train OF satin which is at
tached at will at a low shoulder line.
This. of course. IS worn for the ceremony
itself. but for subsequent wear the little
round length frock Is considered best
style for the youthful bride.
For deniidress there are charming and
practical frocks of chsngeable taffetas,
very thick and soft and of wondrous
sheen. One such is changea5le blue
and pink. the blue predominating, with
the pink tone emphasized by bretelles and
sash. front and back, in delicate pink
chiffon. The skirt portion OF this dress
has a tanic gathered into broad en-
broidered band. this over a slightly full
underskirt. The bodice arranged in a
deep v back and front over shirred
decolletage OF fne-lace. The embroidered
sleeves just touch the elbows, and
score of tiny rhinestone buttons 2listen
like dewdrops just above the waist line
back and front This is a charming at
home frock. 1t will stand much service
without loss OF freshness, and being
somewhat conservative in line Is ia
The vogue OF black and white has crept
into fall trousseaux as into all other ex-
amples CT dress. Though brides love gay
and delicate coiors as rule, few of the
autumn contingent will forget the chs of
at least one black and white combination.
But-beware. be cautious In your selec-
ton of said black and white frock, for 1t
must be done we'll or not at all. A bad
combination of these two sharp contrasts
is hopelessly "ganche." Black and white
is effectively combined with Persian In
one trousseau gown. 1t is designed for
a stately brunette, whose dark beauty the
oriental coiorings bring out to perfection
The underbody OF the dress is Of white
satin, with Q deep hem of black and, by
the way, this is one of the few trained
gowns OF the season. A knee-length tunic
is Of Persian printed chiffon. This Is
confined at the waist and again at the
knee, by bands OF heavy oriental en-
broideries. Depending from the lower
band, back and front, are long. heavy
strands and tassels Of oriental silk. This
dress is stately and altogether charming
be confessed 1t is bit aging as com.
pared with the fascinating little frocks Of
more simple outline and color.
The chiffon frocks usually combined
with satin will be the real standby OF the
autumn bride. In white and light colors
she will dance in II. and wear 1t to all
formal evening affairs. In smoked gray
over rose, perhaps. or In black over royal
Dlue, Sn6 VIII wear IL dltcfhooi iSecp-
lions, Iuncheons, or even informal theater
parties Altogether she's stacking her
rousseau with chiffon frocks galore-all
Of them simple, all of them fascinating,
and. above all. all of them tres tres
jeune.''
The autumn bride must not forget her
velvet frocks. She who dares not own
one or more velvet costumes this winter
is quite out of this world sartoriaIly.
"One one must have, two one may have
and three one might have''-SO the story
runs. When one says veivets nowadays
one means either silk velvets. or their
first cousins Of the blood, velveteens.
These latter are now SO silky fine and
so beautiful in color that one can scarce
distinguish them from their august rela-
tives.
The velvet frocks should be simple
oh. oh. even simpler than the chiffon
frock Only a little handsome embroid-
cry or a handsome fur trimming Is
counted correct on velvet. Gold embroid
ery is first choice and very beautiful
some of it is. done directly on the gar