davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

The next collar is frivolous little bit
of ornament for plain, tucked waist,
all formed Of rows OF valenciennes lace,
each one-half inch wide. with a band
and bow OF narrow black velvet at the
bottom Of the stock Insertion Is used
for the stock. edging for the MILDLY
collar.
The maid who decides to change the
style OF her colArless frock should have
recourse to the next model. which con-
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09
New Barpins

I" HE latest in. the minor 1ewelry'
is the long barpins. four to six
Il inches in length. which are being
used to fasten automobile wells and.
less frequently. collars and jabots. They
come in plain metal and enamel finishes
and in the heavy. barbaric semipre-
cious stones so popular nowadays.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09
show admirably both of these tend

here show admirably both of these tend
encies.
The first to the left is a side-frdll
model IN hemstitched sheer linen; IN
fact 1t could be contrived by a clever
girl from two handkerchiefs The high
stock collar is hand-tucked. and so is
the front pleat, while the frills are
gathered TO these, the side-frili being
double.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

black velvet. or with milan and
venise lace. Mousseline crepe and
crepe de chine are beautifully orna-
mented with bands of white ermine
FUR, ermine being most popular this
year without the tails
One lovely gown seen IN Paris was
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09
Caught by the Way

N PERA bags are oelng SHOWN In
moire, colored with heavy an
~ tique tapestry binding and gold
lace trimming. The frames are square.
of gold or copper.
Fabric handbags are seen In fancy
silks over metal frames, with chain or
silk cord handles. Velvet bags are also
in demand
Empire girdles with long streamers
have again become the mode. They
are usually in silk and satin. though
ribbons of these fabrics are also en-
ployed.
Fancy goods like garments IN gen.
eral are seen largely in black and
white, or in one of these two shades.
Fabric girdles Of strongly contrasting
colors will be worn with Separats
blouses.
Cord effects are much used, and both
cordelier and Persian handbags will be
made. to match the fashionable gowns.
With Persian gowns or turbans, band
ings of the same fabric and figuring
will be used as bandeaux or intertwtn-
ing for the coiffure.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09
White Crepe

TTTHTTE crepe has come into its
wv own as fashionable fabric for
fan wear. White crepe dresses
are seen. trimmed with deep bands of
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

at the back
For a heavy linen or flannel blouse tho
next collar Is just the thing. 1t is OF
white pique. stitched in bands and fas-
tened at the side with tiny pearl buttons.
The top band is really turnover collar
of self-material and the collar is hooked
at the back. the buttons being only a
pretended opening.
Much more elaborate is the last model,
originally designed for a tulle after
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

noon waist. The fall jabot is Of a deep
cream valenciennes lace and tulle, and
1t Is fastened to a plain stock collar
of the Same materials, finished by a
band of black satin The jabot is lace
edged and is in fishtail shape.
Any one of these collars contains a
suggestion for the needleworker who Is
already thinking of the fast-approach-
ing Christmastide
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

Chiffon tunics have round band, -
lace embroidered in gold at the bottorn
:, Inc black velvet evening hats men,
TONED before are trimmed with dnll
metal laces or with plumes.
With tailored costumes. velvet. satin
and fur toQues are worn.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

TT ERE Is the latest from Trouville.
the scene of the Paris Grand
Immense black hats are being worn
with evening gowns.
Frocks fQ evening wear are largely
trimmed with fringes of beading; chif-
fon tunes are also embroidered with
beads.
Waist lines are all high and the draped
ribbon centuries have big bows worn
behind.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

Of white crepe over white satin. The
long crepe tunic was founced with
milan lace and bordercd with narrow
ermine bands. White Opaque beads
are being used also as embroidered
borders on these exquisite crepe
gowns.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

Fancy goods, like garments IN gen
eral, are seen largely in black and
white, or in one of these two shades.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-09

Fabric girdles of strongly contrasting
colorS will be worn with Separats
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
BY R VI. DoIve, Agricultural College, Fargo, N. D,

is over is also the proper time 10 repair and
overhaul binder for next year At this time
the operator knows or should know, all the
defects OF the machine and what 1t needs In
the line of extras and repairs TO rent 1t for
next seasons work II the machine IS put
away. on the other hand, without being given
a second thought until needed again, the op-
orator il he stu remains on the place, viii
have forgotten what the machine most need
ed. The result is that the binder Is perhaps
given hasty inspection. which I'm q majority
Of cases falls TO reveal anything. and brought
out into the field with numerous small de-
Gccts that could have been repaired at NOM
inal expenditure OF time and money. II the
farmer Is too busy to attend to repairs I'M
n,cdlately after the seasons work is com
plctcd he should at least find time 60 do the
next best thing which is to make a thorough
note OF all defects OF the machine with view
to remedying them when time is more plend-
ful.
Binders are often operated by inoNperi-
cnccd or careless persons who. knowing moth
ing about the machine they arc using, sit
scrcncly in t. seat and do nothing but drive.
Such men arc as surely out of place rs they
would be on an engine platform. \ binder
operator should be familiar with and under
stand the proper function of every part OF
his machine. and, what Is more he should
be able 10 make all necessary adjustments
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
THE CARE OF BINDERS IMPORTANT

n L THE large retinue OF mechanical scrfs
~ at the command OF the American farmer
to-day III self-bindcr is. perhaps the most
important. It's place could not be filled by
score OF men with cradles and rakcS and, If
properly managed. it has greater efficiency
and is much more subsoryicnt to the masters
VIII than the human slave of old. Since the
carly history OF the binder the necessity for
great efficiency and capacity has steadily
increased. Not only Is the cost OF labor
greater, but the new soil formed at that time
produced u strong. healthy straw that stood
up well when ripe and delay in harvesting
was not so serious. At present account
of the rayagcs OF rust and other diseases
the straw often breaks badly even before the
grain IS ripe. so that the profit OF a crop is
often dependent upon tho dispatch with
which IL Is harvested.
Notwithstanding the fact that the success
Of an entire years work may depend upon
the binder the neglect and abuse TO which 1t
is subjected by large number of farmers IS
provcrbinl. II is not uncommon 10 SEQ a
binder stored away in tho corner OF tho field
where IL was last used in some exposed
part OF the yard. with the twlne box full of
expensive pure MANILA twino and the reel
hoisted as high possible II 1t were de-
sirablc TO have 1t thoroughly exposed To the
breeze, by the time 1t is to be used again
tho master wheel win probably have sunk
deep into tho soil. while the pole and neck
yoke arc allowed to rest on the ground, Ma
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27

ture, as II ashamed OF the dcplorable shift
Icssuess OF its copartncr. viii often hide tho
evidence OF his neglect by a luNurant crop Of
weeds.
Under these conditions II IS small wonder
that the average life OF binder Is short
While the farmer coppIacently measures it's
life In years. its real usefulness. may be
counted in days \ binder Is used on the
average not much more than two weeks a
year and lasts about 1yc years which gives
1t period of usefulness OF approximately "a
to 100 days That this time could be IN
definitely increased by better care and man
agcmonL and that neglect and mlsmanaee-
ment result in short-lived machines. inn
proper work and large expenses for repairs
Is obvious
Considering the high price of binders. to-
gethcr with their comparatively short ufe
and tho short time they arc used each year
few better investments can be made by 4
farmer than that OF providing adequate shell
ter,
Before binders are put away after n
seasons work they should be como over with
the same care that good engineer would he
stow on his engine. An old grease and dirt
should be removed from the surface as wen
as from the bearings This can be done Win
kerosene and waste. The binder should he
carefully oiled and all bright parts creased
to prevent rustine After the seasons Yorl,
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27

| NUR capabilities for usefulness for our
I j own selfish benefits, that of our fami-
- lies, the community In which We live
and the country in which we live. depend
very much upon our education. The matter
of education includes our physical well as
intellectual development. we often look upon
education as the sum OF accumulated
knowledge, no matter whether gathered from
our own observations and experiences. or
from what gather from the experiences
of others
Tho fact wish to impress Is concerning
the advantages that come from being bcnc-
hted by tho experiences Of others II we
accumulate facts only as fast as we can
gather them by our own experiences we make
progress very slowly md the sum OF all that
we can accumulate during an ordinary life
time would not be much. II we gather all
the facts we can from others then the sum
% our knowledge Is limited only by our ca
pablitics TO retain what we have seen. heard
and read
The business OF farming at the present
time requires well-educated individual, in
cludng physical and Intellectual education.
There was a time when Drawn counted for
as much or more than brains at farming.
but at the present time farming Is coming
TO be ranked among the learned professions.
To grasp all that is needed requires a
trained mind that can take In, comprehend
and utilize large number of important facts
In fact. the business Is drawing from ? large
number OF the sciences. therefore the farmer
OF to-day, in ORDER 20 keep up 10 or near his
greatest possibilities. must be a scientific
man
one need not leave tho farm to go to
collcgc'to collect many of tho important facts
that can and VIII be a great help in his
business There are very many sources from
which one can collect and store up in mind
for practical use valuable information bear
ing the various branches OF the business
OF farming
There are opportunities for gathering
and neighbor farmers. The different phases
of the business are sure TO come up when
farmers meet and engage in conversation In
social way The methods OF performing
the kinds of work at hand at that particular
season Of the year, the best and most profit
able crops to raise. the different varieties
and kinds OF grain that are best adapted to
the locality in which one lives, tho different
breeds and characteristics Of the stock that
Is suited to the needs OF the neiEhborhood
and which viii yield the greatest income
all of these things and many more are sub
jects that come up in general conversation
and can be made source OF benefit by inter-
changing of ideas
In neighborhood social gatherings where
farmers families meet for social pleasure
in tho evening during the fal and winter
there arc opportunities TO gather much Peo-
pie to talk about the matters in
which thoy are Interested in an informal
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
Barley for Horses

Do you consider barley good feed for
horses and colts? II so, how would you ad-
wise feeding it-Ground soaked or whole and
dry?-L. J. b, Greeley. Iowa
Reply-On the Pacific coast barley Is large
ly fed to horses In the form OF barley hay,
and when horses are accustomed TO the feed
from weaving time and practically get
other grain they to stand IL well
enough Apart from such use of barley, this
grain has not proved a successful food
sole grain ration for work horses other
horses. II tends to cause skin eruptions and
irritatlons 1t Is indigestiblc. and In that
ranks third. rye being second and wheat first
In ration of indigcstlbllity for horses. 1t may
form a sixth part OF the grain ration with
oats, bran and corn and should be rolled TO
burst the outer skin, which is hard. Ground
barley makes paste and sticks TO the teeth
and gums when fed to horses. For plumping
up a horse, boiled steamed barley Is popu-
lar with some stallioncrs and for quickly fat
tening horse; but steamed and boiled feeds
arc much less used now compared with the
old time practice, and 1t is well that the
practice has largely died out Sop. mashes.
steamed and boiled feeds unnatural, un-
necessary and detrimental to every horse and
the fertile cause of indigestion and collie. We
would much prefer to sell barley In Iowa and
feed oats corn, bran and good mixed hay.
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
Clubs For Young People

EOR several years wo have been telling
L of the advantages Of having a sood
farmers club in every community and get
ting together 10 talk over and discuss mat
ters pertaining to the farm and farming op-
ctations. In some places the seed has fallen
on good ground. sprung up and yielded
abundanty In many places IT did not even
take root 10 flourish for a season.
With the new movement In introducing
agriculture in the schools there arc signs OF
much good coming from II The young peo-
plc are organizing agricultural clubs for the
purpose OF gottng together and discussing
matters pertaining 10 the farm
Such club can benefit those who attend
regularly in rlany ways, 1t viii tend 10 give
an accurate estimate OF farming as q profess
sion in comparison with other of the learned
professions. II viii aid each member IN
gathering and putting in practice much SCI
entihc information. II viii tend TO improve
social conditions in the country No other
one thing has been the cause OF dscOnteat Ia
the country as has tho lack OF social advan-
t0ges and we can properly welcome move.
ment that Will crafty the social longing5 oil
the younger classes Of people who live In the
country
They have been in the past q subject for
jokes on account OF being country green
horns" letting moss grow on their backs ana
countryside place is the popular retreat fol
the refined and cultured who seek TO ee'
away from the nolsO and hustle of the clH'
And such are to be part OF society bereal'e'
in the country. Let the good work progress
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
Answers by the Veterinarian
Knocko0-Down Hip
Or. 4. s. Alexander
kiEeo1siB College Of AcriesirgSs

IGJE HAVE a good 3-year- marc and she
Wv has a knocked down hip. 1t is called.
She fell on tho ice two winters ago and for a
long time went lame; but now She is all right
only her left hip is much sleeper than the
other one. This is noticed easily when YOU
stand behind her. / want TO breed from this
mare, she is good one. being part coach
Shire and Belgian. Would il be sofc TO
breed from hcr?-J. r. N, Dakota.
Rcply-In all probabilities 1t would not be
safe To have this mare bred. AK the injury
points TO fracture OF the shaft of the illium
(pelvic) and very likely has left distortion
of the pelvic ring. II that is so the marc
might not be able to have the foal. Before
having her bred have a veterinarian make
careful examination BY way OF tic vagina,
md II he finds that the pelvis has not been
distorted by the accident. then she may be
bred Tho breeding of this suggests
that II would be we'll TO decide upon
tional method of grading up horses Nothing
Is to be gained by mixing breeds in the way
indicated by the breeding of this mare II
a Belgian was the sire. by all means breed
her TO a Belgian. II she is ht to breed from;
and should lilly result. use Belgian stall
lion for her and her female progeny when
these come OF age to be brcd. Five success
sivc top crosses OF a given pure breed per-
sisted In year after year results In practically
pure blood In the progeny. Six top crosses
only leave Is per cent OF Impure blood in the
gradedup animal <l
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
Shallow Wells Unsafe

I IrE is containedin some form OF seed, named
l. germs in case OF disease, and spores
in other forms Of bacteria Disease Is sup
posed to lurk in shallow wells and many
who have not made a study OF germ life be-
at the top disease Is always present therein.
Such is not the case, A well not tightly
closed at the surface and insufRcicntly deep
TO contain any but surface water Is likely
TO be contaminated through pollution on the
surface soil AS long as germs of dis
ease arc not actually carried to the well tho
water Is safe, But who tell? The trans
portation OF germs small the naked eve
is unable to detect them IS done in a thou
sand different ways. Dust blown from the
street or from the sickroom laden with germs
easily fln6s It's way through the cracks in
the covering OF open well, Rains collect
the bacteria and wash them through the
brick walls OF the we'll Flies. birds. milk
the well and other agents too numerous TO
mention help 10 disseminate disease The
only safe supply of water is n deep drilled
well which penetrates the rock layers many
feet below the surface of the ground 1t Is
free from disease germs. as all life has been
removed by percolation OF water through,
many feet OF sand and clay A shallow
brick-llncd we'll is decidedly unsafe, not alone
due 10 the fact that 1t Is a contoiner Of sur
face water, but because 1t can be easily con-
tamnated with disease germs and tho sub
stances on which germs fccd-organic mat
ter. dccomposlng vegetable and animal sub
stan
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
Curing Family Meats on the Farm

THERE is practice quite prevalent among
4 farmers 10 sell all their animals from the
farm on foot and buy dressed meat OF all
kinds at retailers prices, thereby making
their meat bills one or the heavy items OF
expense on the farm. / thnk II they would
look over the matter carefully they could see
how they might make great saving by cur
ing their meats for family use on the farm.
To illustrate what / wish TO say l viii
give figures TO show what some OF the meats
are sold for and at what prices they are
bought back. \ beef animal must be
pretty good one to bring 3 cents per pound
foot. After it is slaughtered. calculating
FOR the expense Of killing VIC viii say that
the carchss Is worth 10 cents per pound. II
YOU buy any Of the meat back to-day you
VIII pay Is To 20 cents per pound for choice
cuts and around 10 cents per pound for me-
dunn and cheap cuts. Can one anord to do
business that way2
II one wcrc TO sell whole hor and then
buy back from the butcher at retail prices
the hams and shoulders, he would pay more
for them than ne could get FOR the whole
hog He would throw away for tho trouble
of butchcrins all the side meat jowl pieces
ribs lard. liver heart and trimmings Can
one afford to do 1t?
If two or three noighborS should conclude
that they want some beef during spring and
summer they could kin beef animal and
divide IL among themselves The meat can
be cut into chunks. put in a tub and soaked
in cold water from twelve TO twcnty-fOur
hours to take out the blood. Then take a
wash boiler and put onto the stove and put
in 1t as much water as VIII cover the meat
after 1t has been packed in barrel For
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27
Where Farmers Receive Instruction

to need any words OF commendation from
me II Is nn organization closely Joined by
bonds OF fellowship. love and fidelity, and Is
n great motive power that STIMULATES and
moves farmers TO aspire 10 and attain greater
efficiency in their special business, farming.
The grange usually meets twice a month
in the evening. and the scope Of the work
is such that benefits are derived In social. in
intellectual and In n business way. 4 good
live grange In - community is pretty good
assurance that the members arc not only
learners but that they becoming moro
efficient In the practical duties Of lifc on the
farm.
AS the grange meetings nrc held often and
arc continued throughout the whole year, II
can be- and is. one OF the greatest and best
schools out OF school that have as yet bcon
brought into practical operation
The farmers Institutes arc deserving OF
much credit and yet their possibilities OF
carrying information TO the farmers are very
limited The institution comes only once n
ycnr. and at longest Is only held two or three
DAYS The most OF tho Institutes arc held
but one day The time given is only suf-
hcient TO awaken an interest In some one or
two phases OF farm operations and arouse
the farmers themselves to an appreciation
Of the nobility. dignity and Importance OF
the profession In which they are engaged
have often wished that the scope of
rs TO take In and render more assistance to
those who arc In the habit OF attending. and
also to extend the benefits to n greater num-
bcr For somc time 1t looked as though the
farmers themselves failed to appreciate the
efforts that were being made in their behalf.
but from my own experience the last fcw
years I am free to say that large class
of farmers are looking on tho work with a
good deal of appreciation.
They seem TO look upon this ono or two
DAYS farmers school an institution that
Is deserving of the highest praise During
last winter ono Of the serious difficulties that
confronted the managers was TO find meet
ing place large enough to accommodate all
who desired to attend. Ono solution OF the
problem is TO hold greater number Of In
stitutes and not undertake to extend the
scope over large radius OF country.
Each and every farmer should consider
that the institute Is designed for his benefit
and capable OF helping him. The doors arc
open and all arc bid cordial welcome to
come and enjoy what Is given and impart
their share toward the of the good and
useful things that he gathered there. II
the addresses do not cover all that each de-
slrcs to know. the question box is medium
through which the information sought can be
secured.
To fail to attend the institute Is to neg
lcct one OF the greatest opportunities OF the
year The farm. the soil. the stock the
grains. the vegetables the fruits and all tha,
pertains to them arc legitimate subjects
about which questions can be asked and a
fair and rational answer expected
The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, 1910-08-27

and repairs without the aid OF an expert. He
must know where 10 oil. when to oil and how
TO oil. Many good binder has been prema-
turcly releGated to the scrap pile because OF
improper oiing. The man who gives his
binder an oil bath when starting and then
fails to oil again until II fairly screams for
more may succeed In using a great deal Of
oil. but his binder VIII soon wear out All oil
that does not set into the bearings does more
harm than good, as IL serves to gather dust
and grit. which VIII work into tho bearings.
The proper way to oil Is TO use a llttlc at a
time and often All parts Of a binder do not
need the same amount OF oil. and the opera
tor should decide which parts by virtue Of
their work. need the most. and give them frc-
qucnt oiling. while other parts requirc only
occasional applications.
Corporation among farmers for the pur-
pose OF securing an equitable price for their
products IS one way Of making farming pay
and Is TO be encouraged. But. since the profit
from farming Is the difference between the
selling price and tho cost of production, an
equally efficient way of securing the desired
end is to reduce the cost Of production
great reduction can be effected by better care
and management of such machines as the
binder. for in North Dakota nearly one-nfth
OF the entire value of our crop is invested
in farm machinery. II through better care
and management the average life OF our farm
machines could be increased by u single year
a tremendous saving would be effected