The San Francisco call., 1910-08-14
Craze for Broderie
Anglaise

RODERIE angIalse. or English
* eyelet embroidery, has almow
- supplanted lace IN the favor or
the fashionable Partisan. 1t appears
everywhere-on lingerie hats. on
blouses. on skirts. on tunics. IN belts
and stocks. IN bags: it is the most uoi-
quitous OF modish trimmings.
Lingerie hats. when they are not or
chantilIy or -valenciennes. are invaria-
bly worked in eyelet; often they are
trimmed with nothing but huge stln
looped or Alsatian bows OF the same
embroidery as the whole hat is formed
of. the loops perhaps being piped with
black or color Indeed. much OF the
embroidery itself is being dyed, pale
and dark blue being the favorites.
Sometimes the undyed embroidery Is
lined with some vivid shade. yellow
being popular. and the bows are then
piped with this same color.
The eyelet embroidery is being COM
blned in these hats with valenciennes
and with taffeta. the lace or silk being
formed into ceinture or girdle and a
bow. Occasionally the two are used to-
gether. with edging rufles OF valen-
ciennes and a piping of taffeta- This
use of lace with eyelet embroidery u
rather new. and is very striking
Lingerie toQues. very high and wide,
are OF allover broderie anglaise. with
a narrow dropping brim of wide valen-
clennes edging. There Is no trimming
except wide ceintUre and fat bow
of the eyelet embroidery, perhaps edged
with lace in the same pattern, but much
narrower.
Whole lingerie gowns are being en-
broidered in eyelet designs one
pretty white nainsOok has a deep band
OF eyelet in sUnflOwer pattern
about halfway down the skirt, and a
broderie anglaise hounce that reaches
to the knees The Dutch collar Is also
Of the popular embroidery. as are the
turn-back cuffs on the short sleeves.
The eyelet embroidery forms almost
the entire trimming OF this dress
which is an Auteuil model, a touch OF
mauve being the only other adorn-
ment. 1t shows how much can be done
with this simple but effective work.
Either tunic or Overskirt may be OF
allover broderie anglalse: and It Is
seen in straight landings on linen skirts
and coats. Sometimes the entire sailor
collar and turn-back cuffs are in eyelet.
with perhaps deep skirt founce and
a long Jabot to complete the effect A
pretty combination is tucking with eye
let work. A tucked cuff, for instance.
Will have a band of eyelet above IL,
and the design will be repeated on ths
skirt fiounce and the chemisette.
Moreover, the super-dainty woman Is
having short negligees made Of broderie
anglaise over white or cOlOred lawn or
china silk. These are made very simply.
so as TO show the entire effect Of the
embroidery and accordion-pleated Pier
rot collars and cuffs.
Most OF this broderie anglaise IS on
white linen or sheerer material but
some of IL Is on cOlOred taffeta- One
pretty afternoon gown has deep,
square yoke of eyelet work on rose
q arr
Another light blue tafreta has low
cape effect and very deep fOunce
also in English eyelet in daisy pattern
Broderie anglaise parasols are not
new. but are charming with the other
dress accessories in the same work.
They are very simple. either allover
diamonds diam oii shaped or round inserts and
scalloped f1ounce Of the eyelet. Often
they are colored. for the latest Partisan
fad in parasols is vivid color not re-
lated to anything in the costume, and
yet not clashing with IT.
The popular white linen handbags are
being embroidered in eyelet work also.
and so are belts and the high stocks
with their frilled jabOts. Sometimes
these embroidered belts are piped with
black patent leather and the eyelet
work is done over white linen Stocks
are in two colOrS, the embroidery in
white and plain linen tucking and
frilling In pink or light blue.
Eyelet embroidery is easy TO work,
and has the advantage or looking well
even when done by the comparative
amateur 1t is quick work. too, and so
much more can be done in 1t than in
other varieties of fancy work. IL IL is
properly laundered, starched a little and
each hole punched through with an
orangewood stick or a piercer after
washing, il will look as good as new,
and even when the present craze sub
sides there IS always a steady demand
for 1t. especially in children's clothing.
So the woman who has a thought OF
working a few eyelet centerpieces or a
bureau set in the remaining days OF
summer would better turn her atten-
tion instead to the replenishing OF her
broidery.