Wauwatosa news. [volume] (Wauwatosa, Wis.) 1900-1948, 1910-07-01

All garments have the short effect
from waist to armhole, and this could
only be done with grace and comfort
over slim, low corset.
1t is natural to combine q long
dropping shoulder line with straight,
broad under-arm line. One Is depend.
ent on the other. This feature is not
always acceptable on every figure.
| There are women who are definitely
built on the straight shoulder, long I'M
der-arm line, and 1t is doubtful that
the sloping French shoulder will ever
suit them. The best way to get around
| this is to avoid It.
| We have fortunately arrived at that
| pleasing state in dress of doing some
what as we will with our clothes. Just
how long this condition will last is not
a problem for the prophet 1t is the
public itself who works out these
things. At the present moment, how
ever, the girl who has a straight shout
der line and could not droop 1t If she
tried Is the one who should keep her
individual figure and not attempt the
so-called peasant lines.
Be that as it may, the sloping shout
der is in first fashion, but the narrow
back is not. In this combination there
is hope, 1t at once destroys any sug-
gestion of a tubelike effect, and makes
for more primitive silhouette.
1t is not possible to avoid look of
carelessness about ones gown with
the modern silhouette. Whenever a
woman droops from shoulders to hips
she gains in certain carelessness of
attitude, and she is far away from
the well-groomed appearance Of the
straight shouldered, long,waisted fig
ure. We are leaning more and more
toward draped and careless effect in
clothes, and 1t is hard to tell just
where the fashion came from.
National characteristics.
There have always been two dis
tinct styles of gowning or costuming
The English women are the best ex-
ample of both styles. The French are
=, In class by themselves, as they have
never been able to look tailor-made, no
matter what kind of clothes they wear,
and the American has not always sue
ceeded in getting the Burne-Jones eff
feet Of long lines, play of muscles
and artistic drapery.
! The Englishwoman gets both effects
very well but she does not equal the
American in the tailor effect, and she
surpasses her in the Burne-Jones one.
An American dresses better for the
street than any woman in the world,
but she borrowed her ideas from the
British maids and matrons, and then
improved upon them by adding dash
and charm.
One of the fashions which we did
not like and which we thought we
would not wear is the short coat. 1t
was brought out In the late winter,
heralded as the ruling garment, and
was instantly denounced by every one
who disliked to make a change.
Those who follow the fashions In
sistently did not care whether the
coat was becoming or not They only
knew II was change from what had
been, and nothing so satisfies that
type of woman. She is beloved by the
dressmakers, and it is really for her
that they make and unmake fashions.
Short Coat imperative.
Whatever the criticism of the short
coat, one must acknowledge that it
does rule the fashions Only the in
| dividual who knows that she cannot
wear a short coat, and who has the
courage of her conviction, dares to
wear long one.
Even then this long one must be
shortened somewhere around the hem
and made irregular, or it would be
| hopelcssly out of fashion. The long
tight.fitting coat that reached below
the knees IL impossible. 1t is only the
spoonshaped one that can be worn
with any degree of fashion attached to
| It,
The short coats range in length
from hips TO within two inches of the
knees. So far the really short coat
! and the Eton jacket have not gained
! any secure position. The former is
rather smartly worn by very women,
who let it curve in at the waist line.
They fasten 1t down the front. put a
pocket at the bust. and dip 1t little
in the back to point or square.
The Elton jacket is only worn In brill
liant house gowns. 1t seems an odd
choice for a frock of chiffon taffeta
or cloth. but the models that have
been made up with it are quite effect
i've. They were introduced first at
sTaart weddings, and have since been
copied enough TO put them In the
front of washion without being popu-
lar
The gown itself will be of chiffon
cloth or marquisette and the jacket of
plain or changeable taffeta, cut rather
high at the waist line and trimmed
with an ornate design of satin covered
| cord.
If one investigates this jacket seri-
ously it will be found to more close
| ly resemble the Russian and Montene-
| cnurc +bOea -.