davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30
rench Fashion
Notes

PARIS, Jan. 20.
N ROM the private views of thu
II spring models in many of the
= atelierS there can be gathered
few hints as to which new lines and
features are to be used and which old
ones are to be retained.
The sailor collar of fur has been very
much favored this winter, and it Is not
surprising that this marine suggestion
should be used on many of the silk and
linen suits. They are of heavy lace and
embroidery. or when of the same ma
terial as the coat, they are braided and
corded in effective design.
The short coat. which fits loosely and
hangs in straight lines. will be the style
most emphasized in spring suits. Soma
of these suits. by the way, are of liberty
silk. which is a following Of the sus.
sestion made by the heavier corded
silks.
little afternoon. garments. These ara
made with a sleeve and bodice in one,
the only trimming being a pleateds frill
OF net or lace which edges the collarless
top.
Cherry-colored pongee will be used for
coats to be worn over manufactured
pongee or white dresses.
Some OF the lingerie dresses are
charming. They are shown over taffeta
or soft silk slips in the palest shades:
On some of them there are girdles and
deep bands of coiored silk. Even the
deliberately trimmed ones are OF a length
that escapes the ground and inSures
comfort and cleanliness.
On the streets and in the public tea
rooms there seemsto be rage for bro
cade blouses yelled with mousselne or
chiffon and worn with velvet suits.
They are made without pleats or trim
ming, relying upon the richness of the
material for effect.
Dyed lace OF simple pattern Is worn
under the top blouse of sheer material
Flowers for the new hats are lovely
when fashioned from tulle. braid and
lace. Fringe Is being used on many OF
the turbans of draped straw or silk.
One Of the most stunning of the
spring hats Is an immense tricorne OF
natural-colored straw. trimmed with
huge white bird.
AS hair ornaments large gold chrys-
anthemums are use : -. '''any dark
haired Parisiennes, who have taken the
idea from the Japanese, probably to
carry out the scheme Of their mandarin
coats
The bride over here is throwing Gus
tom and her orange blossoms to the
winds and is wearing a crown of white
roses. Nothing seems TO be safe from
the changing and shifting touch of
fashion. The interest Is kept up at the
top notch. and II Is quite worth while
being one Of the weaker sex. for there
is a prevalent idea that woman IS love-
Tier than ever In the latest creations OF
French designers. ELOISE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30
CONSIDER THE CHILDREN

N THE rush and turn oil Of moving
fashions. while the grown-up is
IL scurrying about to secure the latest
before II shall have passed, the
Riddles ARE often neglected and the sud
den party invitation finds them bereft.
Women seem, as a rule. either to put
too much thought and time upon their
childrens clothes or too little. They
seem not to have found the happy me-
dunn
1t is an unfortunate fact that the
idle American woman of wealth ana
the laborer's wife. alike. know no mod
Grafton in this matter Of spending when
once they start out to ''clothe the
+. children To one the richest Irish
lace in profusion is the acme of all
that is elegant; to the other, deep col
lars and struggling embroideries. Imi-
tations of the real thing are the am
bition: but in each case neither good
taste nor the slightest idea Of what
is fitting has entered into the con-
siderations of mamma
To sweet sixteen, party frocks are a
matter Of much moment. and all sorts
of elegances in material are INDUCED
in with greater or less success. con-
tiA6cht opoi tHo ucSIcc OI appreciation
of the girlish figure.
To the small child who is normal,
clothes are a matter of entire uncon-
Germ. and 1t is a rule to neglect or to
bedeck it with equal hideousness,
which varies with the mentality of
the mother or guardian. Taste is re-
sponsible for these mistakes, and
money rarely has anything to do with
It.
Those who have made q study Of the
child and its needs have long ago ar
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30
Embroidered Velvet Crowns

n MONG the new hats there are
~ some which have large crowns of
Z = velvet which has been embroid-
cred with soft sinks.
The velvet is generally of a different
tone from the color of the brim, and
the embroidered flowers are worked In
the shade to match the rest of the hat.
Flower forms seem to be most favored,
when the needle is applied.
The possibilities are legion. when con-
trast is the thing desired. What is
more attractive than a large shape OF
brown ottoman silk, with a crown of a
darker brown velvet embroidered with
sprays of brown and yellow dahlias, or
asters? Gray. also. is capable of artis-
tic combination with yellow. green or
silver.
1t. of course, is not surprising that
the highly favored establishment Of en-
broidery has reached beyond the bodice
and has touched the hat
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30

ment as to know no distinction between
the ugly and the beautiful, or else their
demand will be for still greater ele-
gance. which will be not far removed
from retribution and not altogether I'M
deserved by their foolish parent.
AS to the actual fashion outline for
the little party dress, both the very
short-waisted or Dutch frock Of fine
washable white and the longwaisted or
French are favorites, and more fanci-
ful-looking for this children's function
than are those of more usual outline.
Ribbons contribute largely to the gor-
geousness of attire, and are a delight
to the child wearer as well as the be-
holders.
Little girls. to be correct, right now
are wearing for these special occasions
a somewhat lowered neck line, al
though not barred to the shoulders, and
their sleeves reach to a point just above
the elbow Gloves are not worn, Of
course. and the tiny low shoes and long
stockings are either all white or all
black.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30
Double-Fa ced Satin

II ENERS1BLE shot satins are well
K liked abroad. They are procurable
in many charming color combina-
tions, such as gray with daffodil yellow,
deep violet with delicate mauve and
dark emerald green with pale leaf color.
BY clever adjustment on the part
OF the modiste one side of the satin Is
folded over as trimming. On a green
model the darker side is employed for
the underskirt and for the lower part OF
draped bodice. The tunic, extending
quite far down, is Of the lighter shade.
but slashed to disclose the dark skirt.
A huge oblong motif of velvet In both
gether at its lower end. The girdle is Of
pale green while above the dark bodice
drapery there is an emerald jeweled
garniture.
The construction Of these reversible
satins requires much the same skill de-
manded for the bordure gown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30

IN EFORE going into the details Of
the sketch from Paris. let It be
known that the combination
garment has not lost its hold
upon the French: that in one Of its
many forms closely fitted lingerie
still prevails. and the long. narrow
tendency shows no sign of abatement.
If we may judge by this underwear
(and the knowing woman always
does. the French do not intend to al
low their figures or their fashions to
spread There is much talk about the
enlarging hip. but the beautiful un-
derwear now being shown gives no
indication OF more generous outlines.
Women who are thrifty begin the
first spring sewing by getting these
pretty slips and princess garments
ready, so as to be able to tit the outer
garment over a firm and satisfactory
lining when fashion, later. determines
the cut OF the dress proper
We take our models from the French
in all of our undermuslins. because
theirs is a delicacy of touch and taste
and. workmanship unequaled by the
English or the average American
woman.
Women who have once worn the care
fully fitted princess-one of them may
be seen at the extreme left-wfll be
glad TO know that the sheerest, softest
Of material, such as the allover en-
broidered batiste. is favorite. It's
yoke is built of valenciennes lace four
inches wide its cores are held together
with beading like that which joins the
tucked ruffie. Upon this founce are
placed two ruffies Of the material. Mark
you, they are not lace. because many
women have grown to appreciate plain
ness round the lower edge. reserving
the frivo!s for the yoke region.
The attractive short model. which is
frequently copied for combination OF
corset cover and wide drawers, Is
unique indeed In Its very simplicity
Batiste is the material handkerchief
linen is even more elegantly. and the
large dots are fiat embroidery done
in solid stitch. AS IN many of these
latest lingerie pieces. the f1ounce IL not
rufiied. but is fastened to the skirt with
pleats laid in pairs.
The point decoration on a petticoat
carries out the original idea Of clever
maker. The fitted yoke portion shows
light and dark stripe of mauve silk.
while the lover part Is plain. Points
OF the striped silk overlap the plain,
and the border, again, repeats the
stripe. An interesting use OF lace Is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30
A Shoulder Cloak

= IS quaint and picturesque and be-
longs with the cloth costume with
which it is allied. The street frock
is draped princess with lapels turned
back from a chenIisette of lace.
Under the lapels the long capelike
outer wraps are fastened. 1t has huge
collar of fur, and the heavy folds OF
velvet are weighted at the bottom with
broad band of this seasons mark.
fur.
In the mantle at each side there Is
slit through which the owner may
pass her arm. This reminds one OF the
fur-lined capes that were enjoyed years
ago; but the grace of this season has
touched it, and femininity may enjoy
the comfort OF this cloak In fashionable
more evidence OF the combination OF
good looks with comfort
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30
A Fur and Chiffon Costume
ATERIALS thats are opposite In

n n ATERIALS that are opposite in
N weight and texture are being
~ allied in winter costumes with
auda city. but. 1t must be confessed. with
great success.
A fur underskirt and bolero is COM
bined with sleeves. bodice and a panier
of black mousseline de sole.
Just below the tucked yoke an en-
placement of gold embroidery lends It's
contrasting richness to tia fur. A
draped girdle retains the slender line.
The sleeves are edged with gold cord
and q band of fur.
With this Is worn a small. round cap
OF fur to match that which is used on
the dress. filmy airy bow and a gold
cord are the ornaments.
Chiffon and fur-the opposites of ma
terial-are all-conquering in their COM
bined form, which probably would have
produced dismay in the minds Of our
grandmothers. but which nowadays
elicits praise and well-deserved admira-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30

tucks. a like treatment appears on
the bodice portion. and the seams
show a use of beading.
Crepe de chine has largely taken
the place Of satin for the slip, and
whole garments of washable pongee
are a nice addition. to the wardrobe.
Wash silks are frequently used un-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30
For a Louis XII Hat

H 5as, w; what are I'M ssas you q; w IL
w use for the velvet shape turned
up at the back. here is an idea that may
help you out OF a difficulty which might
be solved to the detriment OF becom-
Ing quality.
Place a large cabochon of old silver
at the back: use one large black plume.
which must come from the back and
fall over the crown in a glossy circle.
Velvet and plumes are always irresist-
ible especially when combined according
to the best advice from Paris milliners.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30

der the delicate summer gown, while
for evening wear there are petticoats
Of supple satin yelled with dotted
nets or printed chiffons.
Evening petticoats there are, made
with long yoke of colored satin, on to
which are buttoned deep full ruffies
of mousseline. A dry cleansing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30

shown upon me white batiste corset
cover
Another yoked petticoat fitted equal
~ well is also developed in color: a
corbeau blue in crepe de chine cat
stitched with blue silk. a pongee pet
ticoat, modelled after this one. is
shown for use with a dress Of pom
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30

process is used to keep the mousseline
free from dust, and, considering it's
extreme delicacy of fabric. 1t wears
wonderfully well. Then there still
are those very dainty women who
cling to the fitted top of crepe de
chine, with buttoned-on lingerie
frill Of finely tucked null or valen-
cienneS lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-01-30

gee or naturai-coloreL linen. The
brassiere tied in front will either hold
in the stout woman or, If made with
sufficient fulness. will add to the con-
tour of the slender one.
A sheer quality Of lingerie linen is
used for another princess slip with
lace flounces. above which are rows of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-10
Where Rice Great Food Crop Which Enrche People

very much trouble. He was able to make
his way across the room, but when ne
tried to go up the incline the weight
pulled him over and he fell with the
rice to the floor.
This same college crowd tried to pick
out the broken rice grains in competition
with the Hindoo girls, thinking they
could work quite as fast, but had to give
UP in despair. The rice Is OF various
grades, according to the broken grains
in It, and every shipment has to be tested
by counting the number of whole grains
in fixed quantity. 1t takes keen eyes to
distinguish the imperfect kernels, and the
Harvard boys failed in the test.
1t seems strange to think of polishing
rice like your best silver spoons. But
that is what 1 saw them doing as | went
through this mill. The machinery is the
finest known to the trade. The paddy or
rice in the husks is first winnowed and
then carried to the top story, where 1t ts
passed through grinding stones so care
fully set that they pare off the husk
without breaking the rice. The stones
are of composition harder than iron.
and they have to be roughened every
week by skilled Hindoos who understand
how 20 fix them After this process the
rice is again winnowed. 1t goes through
countless fans and shaking sleeves. being
again carried to the top of the mill and
descending by gravity from floor to floor,
shaken. grated and cleaned at every turn
After the husk il OFF, the kernels are
polished This is done with chamois
skin, the grains being thrown back and
forth against a roller covered with this
material. The chamois cylinder goes
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-10

on the ground floor which was packed to
the ceiling with rice paddy in bags. 1t
held more than Coz, 600 pounds, and other
rooms of equal size adjoining 1t were
filled with the cleaned rice awaiting ship
ment.
Rice paddy is brought here from all
over Burma. 1t is floated down the
streams to the Irawadi river and towed
to Rangoon by steamers in f1atboats and
barges. The unloading is done by East
Indian coolies, many of whom are quite
pretty young girls. They are black, lusty
and buxom, bare armed and bare necked,
and often with legs bare to the knees.
Not few of them wear gold buttons III
their noses and rings in their ears They
have armlets and anklets and L saw three
with ings on their toes:
These girls carry the rice from the
boats to the mills in baskets of fifty
pounds each. They lift the grain to
their heads or shoulders. and carry 1t up
and down the banks of the river over
Il plank roadway. Their hours are from
daylight to dark. and their average pay
is less than two cents an hour. am told
they are quite as strong as the men. and
that they do better work although then
wages are lower.
And still they save money at two cents
an hour and most of them make savings
banks of their persons. Nearly every
one | saw had more or less jewelry upon
her. l remember a girl of eighteen with
silver bracelets covering her arm from
wrist to elbow, and heavy anklets of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-10

the Bank CT the Netherlands. All these
do a general banking and exchange bust
ness, their interest rates varying &C
cording to the season of the year. They
get from 10 to IT per cent, receiving the
most at the planting and harvesting Of
the crops.
The trade here is almost altogether
I'm the hands of Great Britain. The
officials protect the British merchants
and favor them where possible, al
though the Germans Japanese, Bel
Sians and French try to compete.
AS to our trade. it is small. usually
amounting to less than a million dol
lars year, and consisting mostly OF
machines, canned goods and kerosene
oil. Within the past year or SO we
have established consulate at Ran :
COON, and the man in charge, Mr.. T..
A. Wakefield, is doing much to push
American trade. He thinks we should
have direct steamship line from here
to New York and also better banking
connections, as well as a wholesale
depot which should keep our leading
exports in stock. The total imports OF
the country now amount to something
like $36,000,O00 per annum, OF which
Great Britain supplies more than %
per cent.
Among the American goods sold are
tools, pipe fittings, axes, typeWriters
and sewing machines. The Burmese or
the better classes wear some American
shoes, and they are beginning to eat
canned goods and condensed milk
They are fond of milk, but their own
COWS are used chiefly as draft animals.
They are importing butter, and not
few spread the condensed milk on
Tread in its place.
America should have a good trade in
Burma Our missionaries have done
more for the people in the way OF edu-
cation and civilization than have those
of any other country. About the first
Christian work done was that or the
American Baptists. who sent the Rev.
Adoniram Judson here in 1913. Jud-
son made the first Burmese dictionary
and grammar and he translated the
Bible into the .vernacular. He remained
here when all other foreigners fled at
the time of the first troubles with Ems
land, and later, during the British
Burmese war, was thrown into prison
ana almost starved. The story OF mis-
sufIerings is one of the most affecting
in missionary history. He kept at the
work, however, and did much after the
British took possession Of lower BURNS,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-10

a mile, at which rate one could go from
New York to Washington for less than
quarter and from the Atlantic to the
Mississippi for about a dollar.
The Burman does not like to work He
despises money: and when he gets little
ahead he acquires merit by giving 1t out
In charity, establishing a drinking foun-
tain or putting plate of gold on some
Buddhist shrine. The Hindoos, who work
for almost nothing at home, can earn
as much as So a month here, and the
land seems an FL Dorado to them. AS 1T
Is now mere than half of the population
Of Rangoon is East Indian. and there are
thousands of Hindocs in every large
town.
The invasion is not confined to the la
boring classes There are many Indian
merchants and entities, or Indian bank
ers The latter do about all the loan
ing TO the individual farmers. They
lend at from Is to 40 per cent year to
the Burmese, taking mortgages on their
crops. The laws here are such that the
Hindoos cannot Cwn land: but the crops
can be nlortgaged, and the Chitty puts
his agent on the farms to see that lie
gets his loan out OF the sales.
These entities are the queerest bank
ers Imaginable Our ideal of that pro
fession is a fat, sleek, well dressed man
who looks prosperous and has the finest
house in the town. The ordinary dress
of the Hindoo banker would not cost an
American dollar, and he lives in howell.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-10

silver on each OF her legs. The lobes
and rims of her ears were pierced with
gold rivets, and the gold ring in her
nose was as big around as a saucer and
as thick as a knitting needle. This ring
hung down around her mouth, and when
she ate lunch she stuffed in the rice
through the ring. She was n King from
southern India, and her husband, a
straight black man in a white cotton
waist cloth, worked with her
In another room l saw the men hand
ling the finished product. The white rice
is bagged up in sacks of 226 pounds.
i nese are carried by East Indian coolies
into the warehouses and are piled up In
stacks. Each lifts one of these bags
TO his shoulders and runs up an in
clined roadway. 1t looks easy, and three
Harvard University athletes, who visited
the mill the other day, rather sneered
at the strength of the Hindoos, saving
that any good man could carry such
load UP plank. Thereupon the manager
asked one of them to try it. He did
so, getting the bag on his back without
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-10

around at the rate of 500 revolutions
minute and when the rice flows out from
it it is as clean and white as the hrst
tooth of your baby.
1t now falls through a chute into bags
and is sewn up by Indian girls, When II
Is ready for shipment abroad Much OF
many and Holland. but a great deal goes
10 India, China and other parts OF the
far east. The Burmese rice is much pet
ter than that of Hindustan, and 1t brings
such high prices that the natives snip
their own product abroad and eat the
cheaper imported rice which is sold III
the markets.
Speaking of the coolies i'll this mill
brings me to the Hindeo invasion or
Burma. The East Indian coolies are
being brought here by the shipload They
are carried across the Bay OF Bengal.
distance of 1000 miles or more, for less
than a dollar, and by the mail steamers
they can come here from Calcutta for
about ga cents. In other words the pas
sage costs them about one-twelfth cent
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-10

leave enough over TO make a pudding for
every man. woman and child. we'll as
sprinkle all the brides and grooms of one
year. Rice Is the money crop of Burma.
1T takes the place of wheat. corn and cot
ton with us. The exports sell for millions.
and the people are rich or poor as the rice
grows we'll or III.
The British government appreciates how
much the prosperity of the country de-
ponds upon rice, and 1t is doing wonders
in increasing the crop. It has an agr1cui-
tural department whose efforts In this re-
gard correspond with those OF our depart
ment at home. 1t is studying seed selec-
ton. increasing the irrigated territories
and making forecasts showing the pos
sibe yield 1t has its agents in every part
of the country, and their reports upon rice
are more accurately made than our re-
ports upon cotton. During the past five
years. In which total of 13.OO0O00 tons
raised for export, the government
forecasts were only 5000 tons out of the
way The estimates came largely from
the local officials. Burma is a land of viii
lagos. Most of the people live i'll little
settlements Of matched huts raised upon
poles; and they go outside to work. Every
village has its head man. who reports to
the government the number of acres his
people will plant. His figures are sent to
the county officials, and they send their
estimate for their district on to officials
of the province, the last calculations be-
ing made at Rangoon
/ do not know what Uncle Sam Is
doing in this line in the Philippines, but
] venture he could learn much from the
British in Burma.
y
But come with me and go through this
rice mill at Poozoondoung. The grain is
harvested as paddy In the field 1t looks
not unlike wheat or oats, but every ker-
mel has a husk on it and this sticks to 1t
as though it were glued When the grain
is ready for shipment TO the mills 1t looks
much like our wheat grains unthrashed
save that the rice husks have neither
heads nor boards and they stick tight to
the kernels It takes quite as much work
to get them off as to grind the thrashed
wheat into -four. This is the work of
these rice mills.
The Poozoondoung mill covers as much
ground as any Of our large f1our-grinding
establishments. 1t has buildings of five
stories. with single rooms as big as
good-sized garden patch. ] entered enc