davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
Couture Fashions

r UST as much false hair Is being
worn as ever. However, 1t Is diff
- ferently arranged, the two OBJ
jects aimed at being a youthful ap-
pearance and fluffiness to replace the
styles.
The hair is frequently parted. and
the crown Of the head surmounted with
.nnumerable curls. which fall In ring
let fashion over the sides OF the head
and the ears.
The turban has gone out, and when
the coronet braid 1s used at all. 1t is
piled higher on the head and IL more
tightly bound.
Short fringes and bangs are still
often seen, though this Is style for
the woman with low forehead to be-
ware Of The net Is entirely dispensed
with and the couture Is built up in
tiers. SO to speak. That Is. there will
be a fat twist. a ribbon or metal
bandeau and loose plait. the crown
piece being omitted.
Some women, especially Of the
younger Partisan set, are even having
their hair cut fairly short and curling
II all over the head In little. babylike
ringlets.
Although, as I have said. the plain
turban, has gone out. exaggerated mod
t6cauons of this style are much seen,
combined with tulle. metal and passe-
menterie bandeaux and wreaths OF rose
buds
Puffs are chiefly at the side. with
hack braid effects, or In coinures OF
the empire style.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
Lace Headpiece

~ NE Of the features Of the hats for
formal wear Is the round piece
~ OF lace that is sttached TO the in
side OF a large shape Just as bandeau
Is used. 1t falls in soft folds over the
hair and looks quite like the lacy edge
of-save the mark!-a breakfast cap. But
you have no idea Of the becomingness Of
this innovation. Pretty features appear
more lovely under the softening halo Of
tulle or lace, and other faces are vastly
improved by the medium between them
and the felt or satin crown Of a large
hat.
Black, white or metallic laee is used
for this frill that Is aFousing comment
Tiny rosebuds of narrow ribbon or
small silk flowers are worked into the
lace. lessening the contrast and harmo-
nizing with the plumes or lace trimming
on the outside Of the chapeau. The
ruff,e is about two inches wide It is at
tached before the lining is adjusted al
though a few milliners have arranged
for change of lace frills by a series Of
loops and buttons.
How did this originate? Why, probably
from the fancy turban headdress of lace
trimmed with flowers that Parisiennes
wore in the summer in evenings. At all
events. sustained BY the knowledge that
q hat with this inner frill was awarded
first prize at the great exhibition Of
chapeaux, It comes as something new
and bids fair to be adopted.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
IDEAS FOR ONE IN OURNING

r IDEAS for mourning dresses follow
closely the lines of other garments
of the season, only from the gen
eral character of the period for
which these garments are designed SIM
plicity must be the important note
throughout the entire costume.
Cashmere or wolfe Is q favorite ma
terial for afternoon dresses. Bands OF
crepe, are still used, although there Is
q tendency to narrow them into fncon-
spicuous bands, making them answer
the purpose OF trimming in conjunc-
ton with the formal suggestion Of
mourning.
Wolfe is fashioned into the simple
dress at the left. Dull tafeta Of a
very soft quality is used for the i've
inch bands on the plain circular skirt.
and on the bodice. There 10 q sugges-
ton of the extended yoke so much
In favor. the circular piece Of taffeta
broadening out in capeiike portions
over each sleeve. Two pointed pieces
are crossed in front over the belt,
which is of dull suede.
The long coat sleeves, which you will
note are returning to favor. are edged
with slightly belled cuffs of taffeta.
In the hat there is simple exploita-
ton of the modes OF the season. The
felt shape has the high pointed crown.
and a wing of taffeta is placed at one
side near the back. This model il suit
able for a young girl as well as for an
older woman.
young widow correctly gowned Is
shown in the next figure. The dress Is
Of dull cashmere, while the sailor collar
is of crepe. This narrows in revers at
the front. and pleats at each side Of the
bodice give a comfortable fullness. The
waist line Is two inches above the nor
NAL.
On the tucked sleeves there are point
ed cuffs of crepe and the skirt is edged
with FIVE broad tucks that reach half
way to the knees. II you prefer. one or
two wide bands Of the cashmere. headed
with pipings Of crepe, could be used In
stead of this deep hem effect
A suit In black cheviot Is shown In the
third model. Bands of dull grosgrain
silk are used for cuffs and collar. The
long revers cross low down and are but
toned in double-breasted fashion by
six silk-covered buttons. The coat Is
Finger length" On the skirt there IL a
the deep hem.
with this suit there Is shown dull
black silk scarf lined with violet NOUS
seine over black. a suggestion for Sec
ond mourning. The ends Of this access
sorry are edged with deep silk fringe.
\ coat dress is shown in the last
sketch. It Is of black serge and Is de-
signed to be worn on the street without
a jacket. There are shown here the sup
pie. large revers that are used on many
models this fall. These fold back from
a chemisette of thin crepe. Crepe edges
the revers and forms the belt and three
bands on the skirt. Coat sleeves are
again used with slightly belted cuffs.
piped with crepe.
: The narrow lines are still adhered to.
the raised waist line Is decidedly in evi-
dence. the good. conservative styles are
shown that bespeak refinement. These
models present practical solutions Of the
great problems of dress that confront US
at all times. giving the best suggestions
. from the modistes who have given at
tentien to every demand of womankind.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

These yokes are not necessarily plain
in effect. While they are always minus
the arm seam and the shoulder seam.
they may be. a. IL the last. fagoted
and tucked and trimmed with lace. The
fashion necessitntes breadth OF shoulder
and generous development II q con.
ira cted appearance Is not to result from
this straight expanse Of material un.>
relieved by pleats and fullness.
Paris has accepted this style Yegafde
less OF the comment that first greeted q,
and all, Of her prettiest gowne e1o
blouses have taken on these lines.
insects, and all over Europe their shAwll
could be distinguished by the peculia!
scent. Europeans liked the odor 60 mucl
that they found out the secret OF making
1t and adopted it as one OF their choieeet
The natives of Kashmir formerly mad
the herb into a sort of ball, resembling
very much our modern moth balls. Thes'
balls were placed In the folds OF theil
shawls.
Skunk and cub bear will be the modish
trimming furs for gowns and velvet
suits.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
Buttons
n EARL buttons lead in favor as
trimmings and for practical use In

n EARL buttons lead in favor as
trimmings and for practical use In
= the fall styles They are in white,
black. mother-of-pearl and dyed shades.
Most OF these buttons are very large.
nearly all in eighteen and twenty line
sizes.
Demiglobe and cup shapes are seen.
with false eyes or black-rimmed eyelets.
Often the artificial ivory buttons are
dyed In two colors. or in black and
color.
Metal buttons, like metal passemen-
teries. are largely Byzantine in effect.
Dull brown. antique gold and silver and
hammered copper are some of the ef-
fects shown, usually in shell pattern.
Glass and enameled buttons show ami
NAL fgures-polar bears, wolves, dogs.
etc.-mounted in SILVER These are es-
pecially designed for fur coats. A few
porcelain buttons are also shown,
painted in Egyptian patterns.
Among novelties. pendants. in imita-
tons OF jewels. and small black and red
glass buttons are offered.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
New Underwear

"HE narrow skirts now in demand
necessitate a further narrowing of
- underwear to conform to the new
lines Drawers, of course come under
this heading. and various ingenious
methods have been devised to narrow
them.
They are made. for instance. on a yoke
top. with wide. lace-trimmed leg Again.
they open on the side. being edged with
wide lace and fastened at the side of
the Les with ribbons or buttons And
some are made with a knickerbocker
band that fastens below the knee and is
finished with q ruff1e.or are fitted with
tucked tops.
Altogether. the underwear one buys
this fall should be purchased with an
eye to its possibilities in connection
with the empire gown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

close-eleeved kimono blouse. with a
single sleeve seam beneath each arm.
deep effect in braided net occurs on
another frock. the upper yoke of which
is the plain net, with the braided por-
ton showing a set figure In soutache,
extending below the yoke line and
outward to form elbow sleeves.
A generous section. OF printed crepe
carries out the idea Of the extended
yoke and takes 1t 80 far as to almost
form the blouse. The skirt material.
which is plain. Is. however, drawn up
upon the very deep yoke in an apron
effect.
glasses are worn the extra strain of see
ing through the plain glass is almost sure
to accentuate any previous trouble.
Patchouli Moth Balls.
THERE are few women who know that
patchouli. now SO popular as a per-
fume. first came on the market as a safe
guard against the moth In kashmir.
where the wonderful cashmere shawls are
manufactured, the natives used the herb
to protect their fabrics from devastating
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
Fur-Trimmed Boots

i" HE newest fad In footwear this
autumn and winter will be fur
trimmed boots. to be worn with
fur and fur-trimmed garments. The
fur, usually black and Of one of the
short-haired varieties. will be treated
as colla1s. about three inches down
from the top. or as welting.
Everything, indeed. is to be fur
sesnas. are to he no exception.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
A Nautical Workbasket.

MO satin lined, ribbon-tied receptacle
IN stocked with silver thimbles. reels OF
silk. embroidery needles, dainty emery
and the like has the sailorman. who sets
himself to work. cross-legged on the deck.
to mend sail or put patch In his can
vas breaches. His simple and sufficient
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

tunity to introduce becoming mate
rails and to supply variety to the
simplest garment.
There. for instance. Is the eyelet
pongee combined with plain. This
pretty autumn frock, intended for
morning wear. is a deep rose color
with girdle of black satin folded
round the waist. and the extended
yoke, which Is piped with satin to
the hiblike portion Of the garment.
Is the same material treated to an
eyelet embroidery done with black
linen threads. The cut is that Of the
trouble rests with her eyes. She is per-
haps more nearsighted than she realizes,
and the strain Of trying to see every OBJ
ject on the horizon through the glass Of
her goggles is a greater tax on her optic
nerve than she knows. This girl should
at once consult an oculist and have writ
ten out for her a prescription. for eye
glasses to be fitted in her motor goggles
The relief will be found almost instan-
taneous. Practically every one has some
slight eye defect, not necessarily SO seri-
Gus as to make necessary the continual
wearing of glasses. but when automobile
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
NOTES AND NOVELTIES

sewing kit-kept i'm a good roomy wooden
packing box In which there is too much
space for anything to be hidden or lost
when needed-includes IA ball of stout
sail Irvine. lump of yellow wax, a five
inch needle with a point like stletto, a
Jack knife to cut his Irvine with and his
thimbie, a strap of leather which passes
around his hand and has a metal excres-
cence On the inside which shoves the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

stiietto thimble through the stubborn sail
cloth. 1t is astonishing to see how rapid
implements, which no woman could
handle. His big needle pierces the heavy
material with nice regularity. and the sail
Irvine, helped along by a generous appii-
cation of the wax flies In and out in AS
orderly and even a row Of stitches as ever
q woman set, with number nine needle
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
Sleeves

TIME kimono sleeve Is being seen in
dresses and separate waists. also
II in many coats.
In dresses and waists there ara the
bishop sleeve the sleeve with q little
fullness above the elbow and the regula-
ton shirtwaist type.
Automobile and evening wraps show
both the peasant and the raglan sleeve.
but for street garments the regulation
coat sleeve leads in favor.
For dressy costumes, the three-duarter-
length sleeve is fashionable. Up even
ing gowns the sleeve is elbow length or
shorter. In tailor-made dresses and
waists 1t is full length.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
QRuz1aZ Gspe

WITH the seamless sns tx shoulder AND
W there has come a tendency to
separate the yoke from the garment
proper, by making 1t OF a different
material or by decorating it in a way
that produces a contrast
We call this particular point in.the
seasons gown an extended yoke;
probably because it spreads so gener-
ously out beyond the usual shoulder
line. 1t Is an exceedingly pretty fash
Ion and one that offers endless oppor-
and ninety cotton in fine muslin. To keep
his seam straight and taut over his knee
he bitches a strong cord, to which is af-
fixed stout hook, to the nearest inn
movable object, catches the hook in his
'needlework" and sews away from it as
woman hens away from a bit Of work
pinned to her knee.
Motor Goggles.
THE girl who finds that she is apt to
/ have severe headache after an au-
tomobile ride can probably find that the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25
Stocks and Collars

- RUSSELS net stocks are seen in
X black, white or black and white.
H. trimmed with tucks. Persian
printed null or lace edgings.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

Shoulder collars are very large and
round. They are frequently of hand
embroidered batiste. or OF maline in
two different shades. fastened with a
meta, cord ornament
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

Tailored stocks are OF foulard, fig
ured. with plain linen or lace turn
over collars.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

Jabots are usually in simple, pleated
apron style. though the cascade and
one-sided frill varieties are much seen
also
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-25

Embroidered starched linen collars
are back The newest are in eyelet
and openwork varieties. or have raised
waved and straight lines formed by
cords which are stitched between thu
layers Of linen.
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1910-07-02

then rapidly becoming effaced, the king owned
all the land and distributed II among various
favored vassals.
The sovereign In the same way regarded
the new world as II II had been won by the
sword. The most extravagant ideas prevailed
with regard to the wealth of the American
lands. II was at one time sobery believed
in England that gold and silver and precious
stones could be had fer the taking and that
the natives were the possessors Of fabulous
wealth. The king gave the charters In most
cases with the idea that he would profit great
ly from mines which would yield enormous
returns to the royal exchequer.
When the colonists came here they found
Il necessary to make good their titles either
by peaceful bargains with the Indians or by
force of arms. From the very first the spirit
of independence was fostered, for fiefs which
had to be maintained by constant vigilance
and negotiations and by show Of force did not
carry with them deep sense Of obligation.
Indeed, even at that early day, although for
the throne the colonists entertained feelings
of loyalty and devotion, shrewd idea was
abroad that the king did not really own the
land which he had bestowed by his charter.
The conquest of nature and of the savages be-
got rugged Independence which as the years
went by became more and more distasteful
to the authorities in England
Yet the Idea Of separation from the crown
was OF slow growth. The forefathers main
tanned that they were British subjects, al
though not living within the realm, as indeed
was specified in some of the royal charters.
The Massachusetts, charter, for instance, sets
forth that the colonists shall be considered
-as II they and every one Of them we're born
within the realm OF England" AS British sub
jects, then, they maintained that they should
be entitled to representation, and therefore
each colony had its assent which deter
mined upon all matters of common veal
and established rates Of taxation. II was one
Of the principles expressed In the Magma Char
T. that the common council of the kingdom
was to assess an Gid pr to assess scutage,"
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1910-07-02

The Declaration Of Rights was forerun-
ner OF the Declaration Of Independence. There
Is nothing more essentially British than the
dictun that there shall be no taxation without
representation. OF the early American states
men only Franklin and Otis wished to have
representation in the British parliament. The
others considered that their own assemblies
should be the legislative bodies entirely and
that II any taxes were to be imposed they
should be collected only with the consent of
the colonial assemblies.
The question Of taxation, however, did not
enter into any controversies, for It was not
until the middle of the eighteenth century that
Great Britain, exhausted by many wars and
seeking to replenish the national treasury
sought extraordinary means for raising reve-
nue. and her ministers proposed that the col
onies, which had been growing in wealth and
Importance, should be made to contribute to
the impoverished exchequer. The French and
Indian war had shown the power of the col
ones and their force and had given very
definite idea Of their growing wealth and Inn
portance.
Having reached the decision to tax the col
onies, the ministry did not spend any time in
preliminaries. II was decided that parliament
had the right to levy the taxes and the fact
that the colonies had no representation In that
body was not taken into account Such a mat
ter would ordinarily have been considered a
subject for delicate negotiation. but. the deci
sion to tax having once been made, no time
was lost in levying II.
England had In effect been constitutional
monarchy since the signing Of the Magma
Charta In 1915 and In taxing the colonies not
represented in the common council of the
kingdom she had violated one of the oldest Of
the rights which every Briton claims.
Such was the situation In 1864. when the
struggle began which IL years later brought
forth the Declaration Of Independence, and the
next year brought into being the first congress
Of the American colonies. which decided that
the assembly had the power to AZ taxes The
stamp act was the nrst heavy impost levied
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1910-07-02

by the mother country, which provided for the
stamping of various legal instruments and pa
pers and contracts fall kinds. as well as dice
and playing cards.
The news Of the passage of this act reused
the colonists to fury. A ,gallows was erected
in what Is now City Hall park New York, and
the British governor was hanged In efigy, and
the house of Major Jones, In command OF the
British regiment, was sacked Then came the
rising Of the "Sons of Liberty" and the raising
of the liberty poles Boston and Philadelphia
were vortices Of the storm. So emphatic was
the protest that much OF the act was repealed
and duties were established on tea, which ac-
counted for the sudden rain Of tea In Boston
harbor Then came the burning words of Pat
rick Henry, "Give me liberty or give me
DEATH" before the Virginia in 1878. The year
later brought the PRONUNCIATION Of the Dec
laration of Rights and Privileges" in which 1t
to" life, liberty and property and that most
ancient right granted at Runnymede, trial by
his "peers Of the vicinage"
Throughout all this time Of storm and
strain the protests were made as British sub
jects and that congress which met In Carpen-
ters hall In 1774 was still loyal to the crown.
II petitioned the king, demonstrated with par
lament and appealed to their brethren in Eng
land. Then came Lexington and Concord. The
congress Of 1775 made provisions for an army,
with Washington as commander, and still pc
titioned Its petition was refused and mer-
cenaries were hired from petty German
princes to-quoting the words Of LOSING
butcher British subjects for asserting the
rights of British subjects"
Richard Henry Lee Of Virginia offered the
independence resolution In June, 1776 and a
committee was appointed to draft the declara-
ton, consisting Of Thomas Jefferson, John Ad-
ANS, Benjamin Franklin. Roger Sherman and
Robert Livingston. Jefferson wrote the docu-
ment and alterations were made principally
at the suggestion of Franklin and Adams The
paper was submitted to congress on June g.
It was laid on the table until July 1, when nine
colonies voted In favor of 1t.
The independence resolution was actually
adopted on July and promulgated to the
world on July A. when John Hancock OF Massa-
chusetts afixed to It his bold signature.
The other members of the congress did not
sign It until August 2. and the impressive
scene connected with the signing was not wit
messed until nearly month later. although It
is popularity associated with the Fourth Of
July.
Centuries Of the progress OF the rights Of
man bear witness In the Declaration. That "all
men are created equal and are endowed by
their Creator with certain unalenable rights
that among these are life. liberty and the pur-
suit Of happiness" was not new. for It was
recognised at Sinai. That governments derive
their Just powers from the consent Of the gov
erned had been stated and restated In many
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1910-07-02

vnsss1 ssyvhseAo
6Fasos kllls Ill hiea
usas, s.ssn. ernsnen-
vi esevsnisns, ehsAp
LasoB All oeasen.
Ms<is 81 netai ysanno1
spill - up ever, VII
pa ssal lSjurs aay.
hing 0uaransssd -
fsstivs. Ofall 1ealess
~ ssasprspAid ~ ~
MARoLD sOuKns
1eo DsKAlb Avss
nsssklyns nsv Tea
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1910-07-02

and again,
In 1858, it
W a 8 d Q
clared by
the British
p 9 o pie,
t he n well
on tn cir
w a y I o
C o n 8 THU
tional lib
erty, tn a t
mo money
was to be
levied for
the crown
J W 1 tn o u I
g r a mt of
D a r l Ia
ment."
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1910-07-02
$4,000. 90 PER YEAR!

wanted Competent Sales Manager, 1prefernbly
with knowledge OF land business and with ex-
tensive agency force already organized to ham
die big Southern Florida tract. Project backed
by strong company. Very liberal selling con-
tract including insurance, non-forfeiture and
money-back clauses. Easy monthly payments.
Big improvement fund. Excellent literature.
Stereopticon lectures. Automobiles and motor
boats for handling prospects In Florida. viii
establish townsite operate demon straton farm
hsn magazine, and cooperate In other ways with
purchasers Applicant must state number OF active
agents now controlled. territory coycrcd and previ-
men who have been selling FLORIDA or other land In
TS~a ~ sTsS re #: a,s9 ,nyited 70 SddrseS
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1910-07-02

500 GOLD BQNp PRE-. With sysyy s,s
New Yet Ciy 1880 Isss,.: indspssdsns 81
S.ay, ooiq.Sas dhiS fihiSSs sosis invssissssd