The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1910-05-26
FADS AND FASHIONS.
Latest Modes Brought From New
York Markets-What Is What in
the Style BOOsk.

bne otyle bOOSk.
New York, May 23.-An inspection
of the materials for spring and sum-
mer wear shows that certain old
time, reliable materials have return
ed under new names, particularly |
among the rough cloths and basket |
weaves. The feature that commands |
itself to many women is the fact that |
the weave in these materials is so
evident that it serves for decoration,
and therefore requires very little 9TH
err ornamentation. Simple braiding
designs or buttons are generally suf-
ficient for the morning dress, while
the square meshes of those coarse
fabrics form excellent backgrounds
upon which designs in cross-stitch-
ing, done with wooden or linen thread
may be added
The correct present outline is
that of a simple peasant garment,
falling naturally over the shoulders
and with no extra width across at
this point. The waist is not pulled
in, but it's size is contributed to in
effect, if not in reality, by the un-
padded, ungathered shoulders and
sleeve top. The clothed figure pre-
serves more nearly the natural out
lines than it has been allowed to do
| for many day. 1t is comparatively
peasantlike and primitive than ia
shion usually permits
The girdles belong at the normal
waistline at present and there is rea-
son to believe that that will remain
it's place during the summer season.
But it is impossible to forecast where
the belt will be placed when autumn
comes The girdle may be plain, fold
ed, embroidered or clasped with one
of the marvelously wrought metal
buckles of oriental design. The ten
dency of the girdle is to widen or to
| be pulled to greater width in front,
after the line of the Empire. This
is the first faint suggestion of re-
turn of the Empire outline in wo-
mems apparel, and Poiret, the Pari-
sian modiste, is responsible for it in
his continued adherence to the jose
phine garb.
Everything clings, and the skirt
will not widen out below in it's out
line, but has rather taken on bar
rellike tendency to widen through
the center and narrow in toward the
feet The deep hem, varying from
nine to eighteen inches, does duty
here, either as a weight to draw
down the skirt into clinging lines or
as a band into which to gather the
central fullness of the gathered skirt.
Necks, it is needless to say, are left
collarless and the plated Pierrot
frill, though objected to in many
cases, comes to us as distinctly new
Partisan note. This collar fullness
} is absolutely the only fullness on
many of the late Partisan blouses,
which are made in one piece, with
merely the under arm seam to shape
them, and without a vestige of Orna-
ment except a sleeve finish and neck
| finish in the event of the abandon
ment of the f1uted collar
Bordered foulard and pongee are
= sometimes made in double skirt or
crusader tunic effect, the upper skirt
falling below the knees of the one be-
meath. But those crusader tunics are
not now as smart as the ''dragged-in'
skirt, which is pleated or gathered at
the knee into a weighted flounce or a
straight band of plain material AS
for the apron overskirt, which came
in with a rush early in the spring, its
day is already on the wan= and only
on the ready-made and homemade
costumes does it prevail If the
> apron style is worn at all the little
: knee-length tunic must be heavily
: weighed for anything that 1utters is
t extremely unmodish at the present
5 time.
The latest advices from Paris indi-
cate that the size of women's hats is
slowly but steadily increasing and
. there is good reason to believe that
> some extremely large hats will be
seen during the latter part of the
summer. Hat materials are of I'M
usual beauty and variety this season
This is particularly true of the straws
T and braids. One may find anything
, from the coarsest and toughest OF
, straws, which is nevertheless of adj
f mirable lightness and lustre, to the
{ finest and supplest of gauze braids
and all of these in such a wide and
Q beautiful range of coloring as has
! never before been equalled.
Two tone or Persian coloring
straws have been considerably used
e in Paris for smart little street hats
= trimmed only by simple ornament
S cockade or fancy feather in black or
. one of the tones in the straw. Tagal
Milan, leghorn, erin, all the old favor
| orites are modish, as well as the new
/ fancy braids and are indeed used for
: the handsomest of the seasons mod
= els.
Leghorn of the finest quality is en-
ormously successful and is used for
every type of model from the severest
street hat to the most elaborate dress
Q hat. Black lace, usually Chantilly
g is associated with leghorn in many OF
a the most charming summer hats, veil
E ing either crown or brim,put on in big
= bow or scarf drapery, facing the brim
{ etc The white laces on the order OF