The San Francisco call., 1910-09-11
By JOAN GREENSHIELDS


T ROM Paris comes the announce
Is ment that this year there will be
two kinds of hats-the large and
The small-and for the present the
medium hat Will be laid aside. The
large hat is extremely large, with
low. rather fat round crown and a wide
brim which droops in a natural mush-
room effect all the way around. This
IS most generally becoming. An odd
touch is given by the Partisan milli-
ners TO this wide brim by pinching it
into a point in two or three places just
enough TO break the monotony OF the
long line. and piping of velvet is
added at the extreme edge to give
softness. In hat fabrics there is not
such z wide range as the summer gave
us, but it is much more distinct. The
three chosen materials are velvet, tat
feta and soft satin, and these not only
cover the hats, but are made into eEor-
nous fat bows or choux for trim
ming. Where bows are used, they
either lie nat on the top Of the crown
or shoot away from the hat on the left
side almost at right angles. Very little
moire and no ribbed six is used. For
dressy wear. ostrich plumes have first
place, and paradise feathers are
close second. The plumes are medium
size (from u to IS inches long) and
are curled a very little on the edge.
They are placed in trimming so that
they stand almost straight up and the
natural mottled gray color is again
popular. Much to the relief of the
Audubon society. the death knell of
the aigrette has been sounded. So
many successful limitations of this ef-
fective decoration flooded the market
that q drop in price and in feminine
favor naturally followed. Lace, par
1iculsrly val, plays a very prominent
part in the world Of hats and a tiny
frin Of this fastened inside the crown
so that it shows under the brim
against the background of hair gives
an effect that is both piquant and pic
turesque. Val is also used to edge the
velvet bands and bows of the trimming.
and sometimes we find line of it on
the under brim. placed just clear of the
edge.
In the small hats there arc, many to
choose from-some with brims and
some without, both equally smart.
Jaunty little English walking hats
rolled Up all round, or turned up
abruptly on the side front. will be
much sought. These hats are simply
trimmed with generous bows or ro-
-settes of silk, or one short plume is
arranged TO fall from the front to the
back.
Summer felt and hemp braid make
a splendid combination for the days
between seasons, when we bid a re-
luctamt farewell 10 the straws and
lingerie Of summer. Wide brimmed
hats show this most effectively
Hemp Of the same shade as the felt is
applied in a wide band on the upper
brim. giving it not only a smart touch,
but rendering it wonderfully pliable
so that il can be rolled back from the
face in all sorts OF fetching curves
The trimming is usually a heavy
chiffon or mousseline in darker
shade than the felt swathed softly
about the crown and ending on the
left side in a large chou. With the
cold weather turbans of velvet or
beaver cloth come into their own
again. These are worn crushed down
on the head and are practically un-
trimmed, the material being rucked on
= frame in such fun fashion as to
relsder anything else unnecessary. a
large eabochon Of jet or~barbaric uncut