davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1910-09-11
mANDAN FAIR Will
commence WEDNESDAY

MORTON COUNTY EXHIBITION WI IL BE AND
EVER BEFORE AND TREMENDOUS CROWDS EXPECTED -
THE WILD WEST FEATURES
ARE REVELATION PEOPLE WHO HAVE NEVER SEEN THEM
BEFORE.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1910-09-11

Go See Busch for Shoes. For Sho,
Repairing Go See Busch.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1910-09-11
THE CAPITOL
STEAM LAUN DRY

Our Shirts are ironed all over.
Our Collars nicely turned over.
Our Linen has Wilderness and fin.
ish.
Our Hand Ironing-well, others
aren't In 1t.
All we ask Of you is to try it.
Call US up and our driver will call
on you.
PHONE 22o
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1910-09-11

Go See Busch for Shoes. For shoe
Repairing Go See Busch.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
Parasols Coming

TT is hard to choose between the at
tractive silk tops and the long, orna-
- mental handles of this summers
parasols, but the beauty of both is suffi-
cient to encourage Old Sol to shine down
upon the faces in order to insure a dis
play.
From plain colors, always in good
taste. to the brilliant shade of 'chante--
cler'' red, there are innumerable steps Of
color and weave, offering few difficulties
to any woman who wishes to match
either her girdle or her hat
Plaid, striped, bordered and hand-paint-
ed silk parasols are displayed in tempt
ing numbers. Linen is always favored,
while raffia has stepped into the front
ranks.
The handles are frequently works of
art, explaining the high prices of many
Raffia studded with beads, entire bead
ed handles and carved wooden sticks are
used. One clever woman has DECORATED
her own handle by painting and the in
PRODUCTION of glass beads, and has there
by doubled the value of her parasol of
last summer.
The hand parasol that is a combina-
ton of sunshade and a windshield is
a comfort to motorists. and is ren1inis-
cent Of olden times, especially If pinked
edges be used on changeable taffeta.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
Warm Weather Sleeves

UNDOUBTEDLY the short sleeves
are here, and 1t is delightful to
~ be able to couple comfort with the
new style.
In blouses the sleeves come just be-
low the elbow and are edged with
turned-back cuff or a pleated fri1 OF
net or sheer hnen-
A latitude that should appeal to ev-
cry woman is allowed in the matter OK
fulness The kimono sleeve, gathered
into a straight band. with no fulness
at the shoulder. vies with the slightly
full pattern with its gathers ar the
armhole- Then again there is a close
ly fitting French monarchy model that
many are using
TT Is so much easier to wash ones
forearms than to discard a blouse after
a single wearing. said a woman the
other day. The question OF cleanliness
is decidedly a point in favor OF tbs
short sleeves
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
Ornaments for Summer Hats

THIRST select a becoming shape of
good-looking straw, give it the
right turn or twist and ornament
it with an effective buckle. ca
oochon or plaque that you can make at
nome For that is the burden of this
song.
Happily, the simplicity of some Of the
oest models is copyable and offers de-
hghtfully economical way OF trimming.
The round disks that so well hold up
turned brims in place are quite easily
fashioned by amateurs. The loosened
top of a hatpin forms central spot
around which silver cord, gold braid
or twisted strand of straw can be
sewn until the correct size is secured.
Linen is particularly effective If fringed
and encircled about velvet disk. Ball
fringe, silhen tassels and plain ordinary
linen fringe bought in the upholstery
department are all capable of a quick
adaptation for circular forms.
A disk that is conicai in shape can be
fashioned from a circular piece of card
board. slashed in four lines and over
Tapped so that the center is forced out
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
Transparent Wraps

NHIFFON, marquisette, silk voile,
or any other material that has
- not warmth, but a beautiful
transparent color, is now used for
outer wraps that may not be useful il
the primary use Of dress be considered.
but they are decidedly beautiful. which
IS their own excuse for being.
Nantes of beautiful hues fan like
clouds around the forms of their for
tunate wearers. They are weighted with
heavy fringe. silk or beaded. or they are
adorned with marabou or heavy orien-
tai embroidery.
The shapes are SO varied that were
any attempt made to describe these
mantles there would be no end. Suffice
1t to say that all lengths. degrees OF
fulness. variations OF the lower line
and disposition Of ends are allowable.
the individuality Of the designer COM
ing into play as the deciding voice
The effect OF these transparent wraps
over the filmy evening gowns Of the sea
son is indescribable. Mere man might
ridicule and scorn the idea of a chiffon
cloak, but faunt one OF these before the
sensible creature. and X he have an ap-
probation Of the beautiful. he will up
hold you In your choice OF lovely ac-
ceSSOry.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

the wooden beads prove their worth to
be highly decorative
Quills of braid. lace, ribbons or flowers
open another field for the clever woman.
The shape of the desired quill can be
cut out Of coarse scrim and used as u
foundation for the other materials.
Raffia gives countless opportunities for
hat trimming. 1t can be embroidered
upon silk, linen or coarse lace; it can be
woven into buckles. torches or wide
plaits. Bows of raffia or Of silk edged
with the straw are easily made by home
milliners. while tiny straw flowers or
bud-forms serve to give the color to
little tots bonnets.
The floral cabochon is In evidence
everywhere, made of central disks of
roses surrounded with leaves or of diff
ferent combinations OF flowers
Making the most of odds and ends Is
a profitable occupation this year To
resourceful women the trimming of the
summer hats should hold no pitfalls
along either the monetary er millinery
way.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

In point. A few stitches will secure
this In place, and upon this form straw
can be attached with coarse thread. The
introduction of large beads adds greatly
10 the effect Speaking of beads. there
is vogue that demands the attention
or women who realize the Importance
OF color spots, and the wooden beads Of
all sizes arc the new forms which
answer the requirement. They are in
many sizes and shapes. and their colors
are decidedly attractive
huge buckle of straw covered with
struggling line of these bright forms
is quite enough for the trimming OF
hat. These beads are effective on q
broad band Of linen or scrim that can
De used as a scarf on either turbans
or large fiat shapes. They should be
sewn in irregular lines with an occa-
sionaa motif or cluster. Red. green,
blue and orange can be used indiscrimf-
nately, for although the thought OF
these might suggest clashing OF tones,
the quality of the wood is such that
dull shade is insured. When used on
the beautiful straws OF neutral shades.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
FRENCH
FASHION
NOTES
PARIS, June 2

-HE touch OF black is delightfully."-
given its French expression IN
many ways that prove the won
derful cleverness Of the milliners
over here. In the first place. a large
bunch or cocarde Of flowers now has
form OF silk in the colored cluster.
Daisies will be formed around black
velvet or satin form that takes on the
shape OF the outer flowers. The silk
rose. TOO. is having its day. giving to a
mass OF brilliant flowers or tulle the
black spot which most OF US recognize
Gs the powerful note OF contrast.
Then, again. black IS used to bind the
edge Of Dresden ribbon, Of cretonne,
chintz or the ubiquitous changeable silk.
It IS usually less than an inch in. width,
and IS an easy solution OF the durable
trimming for morning hats OF coarse
straw. Turbans. iridescent in effect, of
many cOlors Of maline or tulIe, are
given touches OF black by the addition
OF choux OF black satin. Flowers of ex-
sreme brilliance-The cornfower blue. by
the way, being the most in evidence-are
veiled with black tuIle or net. You see
how the invasion OF black is a general
one and undeniably successful
Poplin for suits is quite in evidence.
A particularly good model shown by
Cheruat has a short jacket with very
broad revers and a sailor collar OF the
same material. covered with polka dots.
This effect can be obtained with stencil
dyes II you are apt with the brush. Pop
lin Is also combined with silk or satin
for walking suits.
Cashac
decorative field Of dress. areLshowing
delightful variety The ends Of these
are not neglected nowadays, for
upon examination there will be found
ornamentation that spells work. but
charm also. Motifs OF embroidery
tassels and fringes OF beads and silk,
and drawnwork combined with wood
en- beads are used. In addition to
these. huge petals Of silk are edged
with embroidered quillings or pleat-
ings, serving as weightssfor the long
ends.
Handbags OF black satin, with
nOunttngs and monograms OF gold. are
new.
For the June bride there have been
made a few departures from the ira
N4-OAaA. A-ASS-loeA III S4SSNSss luS COL
larless bodice and the yelling of satin
with tulle or chiffon are the most de-
cided changes The introduction OF
dun white bead trimming is evident on
many bridal gowns displayed by Ney.
Il is pleasing 10 the eye for the
eternal fitness OF things" to see In
lie Pavilion Chinois' the delightful
influence Of the Orientdn dress At this
cafe at the entrance Of the Bots the
best-dressed women gather for the short
rest that the Parisians always insist
upon in their outings. Here were seen
the oriental embroideries, colorings and
fabrics at their best the other afternoon,
proving that there is no diminution in
the vogue for the eastern ideas.
ELOISE.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

So that the skirt viii not be too heavy,
a facing of white batiste lines the deep
hem at the bottom. This is resorted to
in many handsome and heavy materials.
The lack of handwork on the heavier
summer frocks Is distinctly noticeable,
even in France. The last hat is a white
chip. with crown OF coarse white straw
and an algrette OF dark blue.
1t is an accepted fact that the prevail
ing skirt is narrow and without pleats,
that its heavy hem weights the bottom.
and that few gathers appear IN the one
piece bodice. In other words. slim
IS the note Of the midsummer season.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
For the Short Woman

A FTER all, 1t is the short woman
"A who must view the changes OF
a \ fashion with the critical eye, for
there are always certain styles that
she cannot wear with impunity. She
has not the good fortune to be able to
adopt any new line, but must always
modify II with a view TO making the
most Of the height that is hers.
Tunics, for instance, must be worn
with a difference The short woman
must not divide her skirt length by two
by wearing the favorite half or three
quarter length. The double or triple
skirts that are coming back, perhaps
as a reflection Of the tunic line, must
be eschewed by this type Of woman.
And alas for the slightly gathered
skirts that tend to increase the width
at the hips and correspondingIy lessen
= the height They are to be reserved
for the taller figures.
Striped materials, OF course, with a
vertical disposition OF the lines, are a
boon TO short figures, and the edict that
stripes are TO return should be a mes
sage Of hope for all who are blessed
with one eye for the good-looking
Large patterns, coin spots or brillia Mt
colors must be denied the short wearer
and trimming that is Incorporated in
long lines, must be accepted and made
70 show the figure at its best by dis
tracing attention from the breadth Of
shoulders or hips.
OF course. the extremely short coat
must be reserved for the svelte figure
beloved OF the fiction writer and al
though our shorter sisters greeted with
oismay the mandate that abolished the
long top coat, yet there has been made
provision for all by the arbiters of
fashion.
You VIII notice that coats, although
decidedly shorter than those of last
season. have panel effects and braiding
applied, so that length Of line is still
retained. When choosing a jacket, re-
member this.
An excess of pleats on the skirt in
creases width and emphasizes shortness
Of stature. Plain tailored skirts for
Daytime and trained dresses for even
ing are recommended
As parting suggestion, let the short
woman look to her hat The ridiculous
sight Of q woman balancing a hat whose
diameter is one-half of her height must
be seen TO be appreciated. Once viewed
from distance. il viii not be soon for
gotten Possibly the most important
thing TO be observed by a short woman
is her own silhouette in a convenient
mirror. She must realize the most be-
coming lines and profit by a close in
spection Of her figure in its various as
poets.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
A Butterfly Cloak

A n EXCEPTIONALLY fun, graceful
~ and. what is welcome to the home
4 n dressmaker. easily designed even
ing cloak is OF silk. which in its supple
folds over the shoulders resembles tho
wings OF butterfly.
When the arms are held straight out
from the sides the mantle shows upper
winged shapes over the arms. while thu
capelike lower portion Is divided at ths,
back In winglike sections. Embroidery
In beads and silk Is used In immense
disks on front. back and sleeves.
The whole effect is of a gorgeous but
terny which IS at rest when the arms are
down and attractively on the wing
when the wearer chooses to move.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
A Yelled Protest

wy HEN It comes to the point OF
Nv displaying insects. birds and
w curiosities OF the vegetable
kingdom on the cheek. forehead or. per-
chance. the tip of the nose, then in
deed must be entered a protest that
should not be withdrawn until plain
meshes. that enhance the beauty or the
woman behind" are worn
A Wearer must indeed, be a ravtSh-
ing beauty who can walk along with
the rays Of a setting sun, in black silk,
obscuring her vision Attention VIII cer-
tainly be drawn to the intrepid one. but
admiration. never The sensational In
dress Is never in good tasSo-
Let the roosters. butterflies or lizards
he worn by women who lack cOnfidenco
in their own good looks; but IL refine
ment be your standard. Shun the STYLE
that brings down the stare OF the
curious and the disapproval OF the
Well-dressed
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

"OELOW the outlines of these pretty
models in either white or colored
linen and they will result success
fully as midsummer frocks. to be
worn without coats. They have been de-
signed on French lines for American
wearers. and they hold certain Partisan
charm. combined with our own practi-
cal qualities. which we demand invaria-
bly, in summertime.
Simply made, they are durable and
iaunderable, and. above all, they are
easy to make. and so planned that the
novice who undertakes them can hard
ly fail to work them out to good effect.
The frock with the coinspot decora-
tons on yoke and sleeves is of gray
linen, the dots done in heavily padded
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

white cotton and the neck and sleeve
finished with heavy linen lace. which
in this case was white but could as
well be dyed gray. The coinspots are
embroidered after the garment Is bask-
ed and fitted to insure their correct posi-
ton. A deep hem effect is secured by
the stitching on Of a bias band nearly
half the depth of the skirt. Firm linen
IS excellent for the development Of the
one-piece or kimono blouse, and the
same material is always desirable for
the implicated fve-gored skirt, which is
now popular in Paris. The stylish black
hat on the wearer OF this frock is trim
med at the one side only with huge
white satin bow.
The pretty central figure wears a
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

Wv for a change. our steps are IL
rected through a blue or
green season. There are styles in colors
just as decidedly as in lines or lengths
But one color combination holds It's
own through the turning of the color
wheel-the friendly black and white in
checks. stripes or OF different materials.
When successfully handled. black and
white IS generally becoming and always
good looking
From Paris the edict has gone forth
that black and white is the idea that Is
most favored for street wear or for
more formal occasions in the evening.
The checked suitings lend themselves
to various ideas. A walking suit OF
shepherds plaid is now either the peren-
nially good-looking. strictly tailored suit
or it is more ornamental. displaying
trimming Of braid. buttons. satin reverS
or collar. and giving excellent oDpor-
tunity for displaying a brilliantly color
ed vest
Checked materials are OF a safe size
TO be becoming to large and small
women. and the cut OF the material does
not In any way alter a good effect al
though in the hands OF an adept the
lines OF a figure can be considerably
changed.
Serge suits OF cream with stripes are
another field in which most wearsra
can revel. The hairlins Is safe for AL.
adding to apparent height and giving
a background for black trimming that
does not produce a contrast too star
ting
Black and white foulard Is deserving
Aaesk lvaA1 aaA
women. II is cool and yet offers no ter
rifying thought at the sudden cold snap.
Black and white IS equally consistent
In warm or cold weather. When the
silk Is yelled with net or chifon the
touch OF the season Is nowhere more
successfully shown
China silk with delicate bars. stripes
or dots is the delightfully."- cool sugges-
ton for the summer silk shirtwaist. ItS
washable quality and the durability OF
well-chosen silk should commend It TO
women who wish to combine attractive
style with the insistent demands OF
economy.
But when we view the possibilities OF
black and white in the evening hours.
then indeed are our eyes opened and
held by the wonderful display OF de-
sign and materials. Soft charmeuse
veiled with net, chiffon or lace viii give
a gown that ought to be conspicuously
beautiful In an assembly. Crystal fringe
or the introduction Of jet plaques and
beads IS the distinctive trimming that
pays doubly in the elegance or effect
obtained
Black and white Spanish lace. back
again In renewed glory, can be COM
bIned with the opposite color to en-
phasize the pattern of the flny fabric.
Black and white allows the introduction
of silver as ornaments. and at the men
ton of this the thousand and one ways
of the jeweler flash on our minds. Sill
yer tissue or silver spangled gauze Is
easily incorporated with black and
white.
Indeed, the possibilities are legion.
Gowns. wraps and hats come readily
under the sway of these opposing colors.
and in the end fair woman triumphs. But
be careful to supply the right predom-
nance Of one in combination and do
not fail to recognize that there are
many variations OF white and black.
and It Is a subtle comprehension OF their
values that makes for q successful use
of the friendly tones.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

cation of the deep hem line. A black
patent leather belt is the fashionable
finish of this serviceable frock. and a
large blue straw hat makes the costume
less monotonous by its trimming Of pink
and red roses.
The white linen model. with square
neck of cluny lace, is a third variation
OF the one-piece blouse and the deep-hem
skirt. This garment fastens at the back,
is girdled with q white kid belt and Its
finish throughout is the same white linen
with stitched edges. Both the neck and
sleeves and skirt are thus trimmed, and
a narrow band tops the deep hem on the
skirt
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12

bleu de roi linen of the hopsacking
quality, with a left-front fastening
and a suggested repetition of the fas-
tening at the right side. The bands
on bodice and skirt are all made of a
dark shade of the linen and the
buttons covered with the lighter
shade. This bodice is mounted upon
an Irish lace collar and the cuffs Of
the set are slipped beneath the sleeves
below the elbow, while short piece
or Irish edge is frilled for a dis
tance Of six inches at the left side. The
charm of the skirt les IN it's band trim
ming, SO shaped as to suggest modifi-
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
Navy Serge
Characteristic

Myth characteristic steadiness,
Wv the fine navy serge is holding
its own. There is a servicea-
bility OF the material that is almost
r-proof." does not catch the dust
is easily cleaned If spotted and fits into
the morning or afternoon niche with
equal success.
One-piece dresses are simple and be-
coming when lightened by crisp frills 70
edge collars and the front openings
Blue serge is extremely good when belt
ed with patent leather. It looks well
combined with gold or silver buttons: II
IS effective when braided with braid that
varies from the narrowest soutache to
The wide silk forms
Foulard can be allied with blue on
collar and cuffs Of coat OF blue serge
Indeed, the serge of the fine twill. re-
member. is just as firmly established as
ever.
The San Francisco call., 1910-06-12
THE BLACK
ANDWHITE
SEASON

I'VE PASS along the rosy way
AAI every now and then. and Just
Wv for a change our steps are di-
rected through a blue or
New-York tribune., 1910-11-06

well as extravagance OF administration IN
the nation. but I desire 20 call particular
attention 10 the fact that while the apprO-
priations in the last few years have been
increasing at an average of over q million
dollars a year, during the last year u
reached the enormous total OF S4Qsttst-
The Legislature requested that the appro-
priatiOn bill Of S45. 600 0G9 be demanded from
the taxpayers. but there were a number
that il came 10 the taxpayers az $50. 10000
II is not unintereSting 10 note that in the
items which were deducted are the follow
ing
Two agricultural stations $4,000 agri-
cultural school at Bainbridgs. $50Os9; agri-
cultural school at CObleSklil. s90.tto, aSrl-
cultural school, Long Island. 5000, agr1-
cultural school at Delhi, $4,000, agricultural
school at NiddletOwn. SS9,910: forestry col
lege at Syracuse. $55.0So. and forestry col
lege at Cornell. S20.0eo
This NAV not be a discrimination against
agriculture and a systematic study OF the
needs of that industry. but when We realize
the extravaganza in some other features or
state administration II certainly IS food IOr
thought that this special interest has not
er loved a special privilege. Europe looked
70 this country for the source OF supply o
breadstuffs. and II turn gave US her funds
that we would extend our railroads and
develop our farm lands. which were mac
CesSible before railroads penetrated the vast
area OF the Middle West To-day we ars
selling 10 foreign countries securities is
sued by cur railroads. the earning Of those
Industrial developments in this country are
being taken TO other nations for the use
o. their funds. II the force and energy
could be directed to greater income from
our soil would retain in this country
that revenue. and conserve 70 future gen
erations the wealth resulting from those
Developments This is certainly the time.
and IL is Your opportunity. 20 consider well
these problems. which must be met by YOU
ttat YOUR children's children NAV have re-
has been truthfully said. that above al
things is humanity"