Lexington gazette. [volume] (Lexington, Va.) 1871-1962, 1910-06-29
STRiNCINC PEARLS
A Difficult Task That Calls For
Skill and Judgment.
CORDED ON SURGEONS SILK.
A Soft, Round Strand of Pure White
Woven Thread Is Employed, and an
Intricate System of knotting Guards

the Sens Snouto tne string 6reak.
Every now and then story is print
cd about the loss of valuable string
of pearls through the breaking of the
cord on which they were hung and
their slipping Off and scattering over
the floor or sidewalk. Those who
know anything about the stringing OF
pearls. however. always read these
tales with incredulity, because nova
days, as general thing, only false
pearls or those of small price are
strung without a knot being tied be-
tween each Of them, so that if the
cord breaks no more than one can fall
OF
Ii is common belief that because Of
their great value pearls are strung on
something durable, like catgut or wire
AS a matter of fact such material is
never employed. There is no beauty
to a string of pearls that looks why
or stiff. 1t must be flexible to the
highest degree, otherwise all its grace
full effect will be lost. Up to the time
of the introduction Of surgeons silk
for pearl stringing nothing had been
found that would absolutely meet the
requirements of strength and fiexi-
bility.
That the most valuable pearls are to-
day strung on cords of surgeons silk
is due to the suggestion of woman
employee of New York jewelry
house.
Surgeons silk-the thread that is
used for sewing up cuts and wounds
IS a soft, round strand Of pure white
silk which is woven, not twisted. The
weave, when viewed under a magni-
flying glass, closely resembles that OF
tine silk braid and is capable of only
a small degree of expansion. This
thread is produced in several diam
sters or grades, which makes it all the
more desirable for pearl stringing.
These are numbered instead of being
lettered like ordinary sewing silk and
are wound on small cards like darning
cotton.
When the young woman's idea was
first adopted il seemed as though 1t
would prove impracticable owing to
the quantity of surgeons silk manu-
featured being insufficient 10 meet the
new demands from the jewelers.. 1t
was also very expensive. But the idea
was such II good one and the surgeons
silk was so much superior TO anything
ever tried before that in time il was
found possible to secure il i'm sufficient
quantities and at Wholesale prices.
The principal safeguard against loss.
however. is i'm the method of string
ing. An intricate system of 'knotting
the thread between each pearl is en-
ployed. This prevents the escape OF
more than one jewel should the thread
break. This knotting is done with
tweezers and is task that requires
great skill. There must be no insight
ly gaps between the knots and the
pearls. and the whole when finished
must be immaculate in its Wilderness.
The tiny knots instead of dptructine
from the beauty of the necklace en-
hance il, for they look like seed pearls
alternating with the larger ones. Knot
ting lengthenS the necklace also and
is often reSOrted to for that purpose.
When a strand Of certain length is
desired and the number of large pearls
| is not sufficient imitation pearls of The
exact size and color are often substi
tuted. Some of these mutations will
deceive the eye of any but the most
/ expert.
1t often happens that the largest
| pearls have the smallest holes drilled
through them, for every grain that i.
taken from the pearl reduces il il
weight. In such cases, however, tn,
risk of the cord breaking is increased
owing to the slenderness of the threaC
and the sharp edges of the pearls cut
ting through it quickly.
Stringing pearls is never done will
a needle. A needle is not yielding
enough to pass through very small
holes. and the doubling of its diamete
at the eye makes its use impracticable
Therefore the end of the thread Il
sharpened to n very fine point. which
is waXed stifiiy enough to be used eX
actly as n needle would be.
Ordinarily pearl stringing Is me
chemically difficult and also require
taste and judgment. The pearls ma
have to be rearranged in order TO in
prove their general appearance. 4
the laying out of collarets especial
a great deal OF skill is required. J.
the first place. the colaret must Fl
exactly. This seems cOmparativel
easy, but ii is not. A pattern Is a
ways fitted beforehand. but it is rare
ly the case that the result is satisfa'
tory the first time. Some necks r.
quire straight collars and Other
slightly curved. The same care is gi'
en- TO the fitting of Il cOlaret as to tn
set of an expensive gown. and it ha