The San Francisco call., 1910-04-07

| rib steak TO be forced down within the
/ limits of their purse. The secretary
of agriculture, perhaps. noting the fact
that his own clerks were reduced TO a
| mere shadow. set out to fnd speedier
remedy than the judiciary promised
He tackled the problem from the other
end, taking the bull by the tail. as 1t
were. Instead of trying to make the
butcher sell the consumer more meat
for two-bit piece, he performed a
! few miracles with the frying pan and
| kettle in order to show the consumer
| how he might get a great deal more
not out of the butcher, but out of the
quarters worth of beef.
After considerable stewing on the
part of the experts of the Office of ex-
perimental stations of the department
| of agriculture. farmers bulletin 391 has
| been compiled and issued. 1t is en-
titled Economical Use of Meat in the
| Home" It's coming was heralded in
| the news dispatches from Washington,
| for its Importance was seen to be very
real at this time when the cut Of
porterhouse that the butcher sends you
| for % cents resembles nothing except
| watch charm and is capable Of squar-
| ing the appetite of nothing but a ca
| nary bird. Bulletin 391 is a thorough
| going document. 1t cuts 10 the bone,
and it does not stop there; it goes right
/ on with recipes for nourishing dishes
to be made from the marrow. A care
full perusal of the document indicates
| that so long as the head of the family
| Is able TO come home with a vest
pocketful of mutton or pork or beef,
! the housewife, who has spent the day
reading the bulletin, can tell the meat
trust 10 go hang.
The whole note of the bulletin is
demand for the practice of more prac
tical economies-and it tells you how.
Common sense in buying. in which you
find that you have been wasting half
your money; intelligence in preparation.
in which many new tricks are added
to the oldest art in the world; con-
servative serving. in which you are
shown how to make the joint do double
duty without sending Willie and Mary
to bed hungry-these are the three
general sections into which the bulletin
may be divided.
The bulletin holds that there is
| little real difference in digestibility be-
| tween red meat and white meat, or beef
and pork, and that all meats come un-
| der the head of foods easily digested.
Thus those who wish to use the
! cheaper cuts of meat need not feel
| that their families are less well
nourished.
| Flavor in meat depends mainly on
certain heterogeneous substances which
/ are called extractives because they can
be dissolved out or extracted by
soaking the meat in cold water. The
| quality of the extractives and the re-
| sulting flavor of the meat vary with
| the condition of the animal and in diff
ferent parts of its body. They are
| usually considered better developed in
4 e., tr,x arafy
persons suppose eXtractives or the fla
vor they cause are best in the most
expensive cuts of meat; in reality, cuts
! on the side of beef are often of better
| flavor than tender cuts, but owing to
1.-The difficulty of mastication this fact
| is frequently not detected. The ex-
| tractives have little or no nutritive
value in themselves. but they are Of
great Importance in causing the secre-
| tion of digestive juices at the proper
| time, in the right amount. and of the
right chemical character.
/ In many American families meat is
eaten two or three times a day; in such
cases the simplest way of reducing the
meat bill would very likely be TO cut
down the amount used, either by Serv-
! ing it less often or by using less at
/ time Deficiency of protein need not
| be feared when one good meat dish
| day is served. especially If such nitrog-
1
! and beans are used instead In locali-
| ties where fish can be obtained fresh
| and cheap. it might well be more fire.
quently substituted for meat for the
| sake Of variety as we'll as economy. In
| genious cooks have many ways of "ex-
| tending the flavor of meat. that is.
of combining a small quantity with
other materials TO make a large dish,
as in meat pies. stews and similar
dishes.
Here are some of the recipes in the
government cook book:
Uses for Bones-Almost any meat
bones can be used in soup making and
| il the meat is not all removed from
| them the soup is better. But some
| bones, especially the rib bones. if they
have a little meat left on them. can
be grilled or roasted into very pala-
table dishes. The "sparerib" of south
| ern cooks is made of the rib bones
/ from a roast of pork, and makes a
favorite dish when we'll Drowned. The
braised ribs of beef often served in
high class restaurants are made from
the bones cut from rib roasts. In this
connection it may be noted that many
of the dishes popular in good hotels
are made of portions Of meat such as
are frequently thrown away in private
houses, but which with proper cooking
and seasoning make attractive dishes
and give most acceptable variety to
the menu. An old recipe for +broiled
bones" directs that the bones (beef
ribs or sirloin bones on which the meat
is not left too thick in any part) be
sprinkled with salt and pepper (cay-
enne) and broiled over a clear fire un-
til Drowned. Another example OF the
use of bones is boiled marrow bone
The bones are cut in convenient
lengths the ends covered with a little
piece of dough over which a Toured
cloth Is tied. and cooked in boiling
water for two hours. After removing
the cloth and dough the bones are
placed up right on toast and served
Prepared above, the bones may also
be baked in a deep dish Marrow is
sometimes removed from bones after
cooking. seasoned and served on toast
Household methods of extending the
meat flavor through a quantity of ma
terial requires less meat and thus re-
duces the cost. Under this head come
dumplings. The bulletin believes that
absolutely digestible dumplings are no
more Impossible than flying. A recine
is given for an ideal stew. and to thar
is appended the boss recipe for DUNN
Iings The two recipes follow:
Meat Stew-Ffve pounds OF cheaner
cut beef, four cups of potatoes cut into
small pieces, two-thirds Of a cup each
OF turnips and carrots cut into half