The Lambertville record., 1910-11-15

though 1T seemed from the StyleS
shown uring the in-beGween season
that coats would be noticeably short
and skirts unpleasantly rorrow, the
styles taken as whole show neither
of these eccentricities, but are just
comfortable in-between. The mate
rials are all soft and supple and mod
erately light in weight.
Covert cloth in the familiar grayish
tan is being used by some u the
houses for the severer type of tailored
suit and the new serge is very SOFT
and heavy in quality, without trace
new beaver finished material, which
has just been introduced this season,
is lovely and warm for winter tailored
suits, but it is not likely that 1t will
be worn at home for this purpose as
much as on this side of the water, as
1t lacks the trim quality that Amer
lean women like in their tailored
street clothes. 1t will undoubtedly be
a popular material for country and
golf suits, as it is wonderfully well
adapted for this purpose.
AS lining material in satin wraps
and coats for afternoon and evening
wear it is really lively and takes the
place of an interlining and an over
lining of silk or satin, as it is used
without any additional overlining. 1t
is made in all the new colors, and
black and white.
CameI's Hair Cheviot.
Another charmingly soft material is
camers hair cheviot. This material
is quite unlike the old camel's hair
cheviot you may have in mind, with
out the loose long hairs. 1t is almost
smooth, having feeling of chamois
when the hand is passed over the nap
Of the material. The new colors are
exceedingly soft and low in tone, with
the probable exception Of cerise and
a bright greenish blue, which is used
for dressy afternoon and evening
gowns, although they are both col
crs which are more used for evening
cloths, and even then must be worn
with care by few people
There is lovely soft green, like the
green of partially turning leaves, al
most gage green in color with a tint
brown. Blue is much used in all ocl-
ors, the staple marine blue leading,
and a new blue, called blue of the
night" is in even more somber tone
than the marine blue, and is liked as
trimming with tones of Lighter blue.
Then there is very soft. light blue,
which is almost a green, with a clear
water blue tone, much liked for after
noon gowns and tailored suits with
collars and cuffs of silver opossum
FUR. Brown is a great favorite in
light leather tones and darker to-
bacco brown.
In Tailored Suits.
One Of the best points about the
1ew fashions in tailored suits is that
they are full of ideas to use in fixing
over ones tailored suits from last sea-
son. In every instance the material
can be taken away; there is no neces-
sity or4dding more of the same kind
Of material, which greatly simplifies
the work of alteration in clothes,
The majority of the tailored coats
measure IL inches from the waistline.
This is, of course, much shorter than
last years coats, so the shortening of
a coat Is very easy to give it the new
lines. II your coat happens to be made
with pockets set rather low, cut the
coat directly on line with the lower
edge of the pocket. If the pockets
are small, use material from the bot
tom of the coat and make long narrow
pockets, extending them around over
the underarm seam and making them
from five to seven inches in height.
Trim with bone buttons along the
upper edge in straight line and
stitch two-inch band Of the mate
rial along the upper edge of the outer
side.
This wcl give your coat a new look,
as the little pockets are quite out of
fashion.
Then as to the back of your coat.
The newest models are quite plain fit
ting without trace of fullness at the
lower portion of the seams. 1t gives
very snug, trim appearance to the
back of the coat and is really much
better than the open vents, which are
always turning up at the corners.
When buttons are used they are plac-
ed high on the side back seams, at
about an even distance between the
underarm and the lower edge of the
coat, which brings them at a high
waistline. Many of the coats have a
broad rolling collar of fur, one piece
slightly narrowing toward the lower
edge.
Sailor Collar Still Popular.
There is no abatement in the use
of the sailor collar shapes, which have
grown to cape-like proportions on
even the short coats and are almost
generally used on the long. dressy
coats Of silk, velvet and fur. In
square shapes they hang to within a
few inches of the waistline, and the
round collars extend well over the
upper portion of the arm, forming a
deep revere in front, fastening at the
waist. They are exceedingly pretty
when made of dyed muskrat. or the
real seal if one is fortunate enough