New-York tribune., 1910-09-18
Paris, Sep1s


Tnspection oF the new models displayed
on openiug days at the great gown building
bouses leaves one with The opinion that.
,b,rs fs- reneral lines remain unchanged
The many eccen1ricities that were put
forward II the early summer by several
designers IN. an attempt 10 create an m
preston on a certain class have entirely
disappeared Instead there is q pleasing
quality OF good sense and practcaolIlty IN
new gowns and garments, with z variety
50 wide that all tastes may be suited
An indication OF wider skirts may be
gathered from the increased fulness OF the
hens OF short c1r coats. Yet fatty con-
r-adic1ing this are many short, scaut-
skfrted gowns with high-belted waist lines,
uiainlv designed. 10 wear under long di-
rectoire coats OF supple breitschwanz or
the delightful new velvets. Such gowns as
these are made from the finest and softest
OF Inarerials-meJeoT crepe, satin and the
never TrarQUisette- Shaped on simple lines
they are nearly all made colIarless with
The fuIness between neck and high belt
drawn into d yoke OF lace or embroidery
Small oDen chernise sleeves end At the el-
bows over undersleeves OF soft fine stuff
and Il one prefers d chober Il Is furnished
fv 2 tiny detachable guimpe- This choker
j the highest ever known, pointing 10 the
ears so that the earrings are hidden by II
unless they fall over il Illustrating the
increased fUluess in some OF the coat and
skirt street costumes was one OF blue vel
Vet shading into a lovely green from its
1lndsrwoven siIken thread The half long
coat and short skirt were carefully matched
with fat side pleats. set at the side OF each
4 fat velvet collar. narrow at the back
deepened IN front into long. slender revers
that extended 10 the waist line. Buttoned
straps decorated them. as well as the wide
faring cuffs that finished the small coat
sleeves
Velvet has a tremendous vogue. aud
scarcely ever Is il of one color. Often the
rningling OF two shades OF color IS SO deli
cateIy achieved that only in certain lights
is i apparent Red is the favorite color al
the nornen Fancy an evening gown OF
cherry red mousseline de sole hung over
gold tissuel TarTnshed old gold lace, duly
shining through lis yelling Of sheer black
c:1ifon. trimmed il, and gold fringe Elinted
among the cuuningly arranged folds Of the
skirt Just II the middle OF the back OF
the short Skin dragged an odd Irain-a
rf-ee-cornered bit. carelessiy dropped from
the waist
Trains Of this sort are one of the curious
features OF the season The train OF q
white evening gown consisted merely OF a
narrow breadth Of white and gold brocaded
silk. falling loose and separate from the
round waist 20 drag only few inches on
the floor Al one Of the Oldest anG most
conservative houses IL Paris long trains
are seen differing from those Just described
only IN their added length They are fur
risi7ed with long ribbon loops. so that IN
dancing or IL moving through d crowd they
may be lifted from the floor with nothing
lost OF grace
EXQUISITE brocaded silks and splendid.
glossy velveSs that carry Z flavor OF the
Renaissance are used in the composition OF
evening wraps and 10 enhance their beauty
further gold and silver threads are law
ishlv used while the Innings continue the
scheme Of richness and OF color. Simply
elegant. yet easily achieved, was an even
Ing cloak OF rich, deep blue-the wonderful
blue Of stained glass one long, wide strip
shares us seamless folds. dropping deep
folded loop in the middle Of the back, like