The San Francisco call., 1910-09-11


have been cleverly combined in one.
and the result has proved very prac-
tical For separate petticoats white
pongee has superseded lawn and main
sock on account of its soft and cling
ing qualities, and messaline and fou-
lard are to be highly recommended on
account of their durability and prac-
ticability. They are cut without much
fullness and most of them have tucked
f1ounces. the tucks running up and
down, instead of around, and the very
smart ones show trimming of fringe.
1t is very useful plan to have deep
f1ounces attached to the petticoat with
One may have then a set of founces
matching different gowns
The draw string has happily van
ished and we now have our underskirts
cut or darted to fit the figure, or, in the
case of flannel petticoats, which are
again to the fore, mounted on a deep
yoke.
In nightgowns there is little change.
Yoke effects are most in evidence and
the influence of the peasant style is
seen in the cut of the sleeve and yoke
in one. Much embroidery is used Ma
deira and French being easily the lead
ers. A very dainty trimming. the charm
of which lies in its simplicity and
sheerness, is white dotted swiss, with
insets and edging of val. Yokes and
sleeves of this. as we'll as deep founces,
are delightful additions to the less
1lny. batiste and lawn of our lingerie
The day of the abnormally small
waist is over. Paris has made the law.
and every one is following it joyously.
The natural figure is the fashion
able one, and long, supple lines with
narrow hips and straight front are the
results sought by the corsetiere of to-
day. Long bones are not necessary to
long, to be sure, but it is the coutil or
brocade c1everly cut to confine the di-
mensions that gives the plant, grace
full line without undue compression.
Perfect freedom is given to the chest
by the low bust. For outdoor sports
there are short girdle corsets of tricot,
boned rather sparingly, but we'll
enough to insure trig appearance
| without interfering with the necessary
elasticity. The Brassiere or boned cor
set cover has become, on account of
the low cut bust of the corset, neces-
realizes that without perfect founda-
ton the effect of the handsomest gown
| is spoiled This is made in several
| styles, each carefully cut and ingeni-
ously boned to give support to the
| bust, and at the same time to hold the
poise given by the well fitting corset.
It is made of strong lawn with en-
broidery or lace.
Negligees in host of styles ranging
| from the imported creations in chiffon
and silk, labeled tea gowns, to the
simplest wrappers are being shown to-
day. The ever popular kimono is still
with us in silk and notifications of
! this style in which much of the full
ness is left out and fastenings are
added in front are used in the light
.woolen materials. Embroidery is the
most suitable trimming for this. Flan-
mel does not possess the charm of silk
for these indispensable rest gowns, but
a very satisfactory result can be OBJ
tained where warmth is necessary by
having the gown made of wash silk
crepe, with slip lining of white cash
mere. very charming gown is of
fine flannel in lavender shade. 1t fits
we'll on the shoulder and falls from
there in soft folds. The fastening is on
the left side, the hooks being hidden
by scalloped band of the material,
embroidered in white, which outlines
the neck and is continued all the way
down the front. The sleeves fit as far