davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
Ornaments for Summer Hats.

the requirement. They are in many sizes
and shapes, and their colors are decided
~ attractive.
A huge buckle of straw covered with
struggling line of these bright forms IS
quite enough for the trimming or nat;
These beads are effective on broad band
of linen or scrim that can be Used as
scarf on either turbans or large NAT
shapes They should be sewn in irregu-
cluster Red, green, blue and orange can
be used unfortunately, for although the
thought of these might suggest clash
ing of tones, the quality OF the "ooa Is
such that a dull shade is insured. When
used on the beautiful straws or neutral
shades the wooden beads prove their
worth to be highly decorative.
Quilts of braid, lace. ribbons or MOWERS
open another field for the clever woman.
The shape of the desired quill can De cut
out of coarse scrim and used as founda-
ton for the other materials.
Raffia gives countless opportunities Tor
hat trimming. 1t can be embroidered
upon silk linen or coarse lace; 1t can De
woven into buckles torches or wide plalts
Rows of rafia or of silk edged with the
straw are easily made by home mill1ners,
while tiny straw flowers or bud forms
serve to give the color to little tots bon
nets.
The floral eabochon Is in evidence
everywhere, made of central disks OF
roses surrounded with leaves or OF diner
ent combinati of flowers
Making the most of odds and ends is
profitable occupation this year. To re-
sourceful women the trimming of the
summer hats should hold no pitfalls along
either the monetary or millinery way.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
The Black and White Season

thought at the sudden cold snap Black
and white is equally consistent In warm
or cold weather When the silk is yelled
with net or chiffon the touch of the sea-
son is nowhere more successfully shown.
China silk with delicate bars. stripes
or dots Is the delightfully."- cool suggestion
for the summer silk shirt waist. Its wash
able quality and the durability Of well
chosen silk should commend 1t to women
who wish to combine attractive style with
the insistent demands of economy.
But when we view the possibilities of
black and white in the evening hours,
then. indeed, are our eyes opened and held
by the wonderful display of design and
materials. Soft charmeuse yelled with
net chiffon or lace will give gown that
ought to be conspicuously beautiful in an
assembly Crystal fringe or the introduce
ton of jet plaques and beads is the dis
tinctive trimming that pays dOubiy i'll the
elegance of effect obtained.
Black and white Spanish lace, back
again in renewed glory, can be combined
with the opposite color to emphasize the
pattern Of the filmy fabric. Black and
white allows the introduction of silver as
ornaments, and at the mention of this the
thousand and one WAYS OF the 1eWeler
fash on our minds. Silver tissue or silver
spangled gauze is easily Incorporated
with black and white.
Indeed, the possibilities are legion.
Gowns wraps and hats come readily
under the sway of these opposing colors,
and in the end fair woman triumphs.
dominance of one in a combination and
do not fail to recognize that there are
many variations Of white and black. ana
IT is a subtle comprehension OF their val
ues that makes for a successful use OF
the friendly tones.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
French Fashion Notes.

has a short jacket with very broad revers
and sailor collar Of the same material,
covered with polka dots. This effect can
be obtained with stencil dyes If you are
apt with the brush. Popln is also COM
bined with silk satin for walking suits.
SaShes, so firmly installed in the deco
rative field of dress. are showing delight
full variety. The ends of these are not
neglected nowadays, for upon examina-
ton there will be found ornamentation
that spells work, but charm also. Motifs
of embroidery taSsels and fr1ngeS OF
beads and silk. and draWnwork combined
with wooden beads are used. In addition
to these. huge petals OF SILK are edged
with embroidered quillings or pleatings,
serving as weights for the long ends.
Handbags of black satin. with mount
inss and monographs of gold, are new
For the June bride there have been
made a few departures from the trad1-
tional Three-uuarter sleeves. the collar
less bodice and the yelling Of satin with
tuIIe or chiffon are the most decided.
changes The introduction of dull white
bead trimming is evident on many bridal
gowns displayed by Ney.
1t is plea sing to the eye for the eternal
fitness of things to see in LIE Pavilion
Chinois'' the delightful influence of the
orient in dress. At this cafe at the en-
trance of the Bots the best dressed women
gather for the short rest that the Pa
risians always insist upon in their out
jngs Here were seen the oriental en-
hrOjdertes, coIorings and fabrics at their
best the other afternoon, proving that
there is no diminution in the vogue for
the eastern ideas ELOlSE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
Transparent Wraps.

CHIFFON. marquisette. silk wolfe, or
~ any other material that has not
warmth. but a beautiful transparent color
is now used for outer wraIs that may
not be useful if the primary use Of dress
be considered. but they are decidedly
beautiful, which is their own excuse for
being.
Nantes of beautiful hues fall like
clouds around the forms of their fortu-
nate wearers They are weighted with
heavy fringe. silk or beaded, or they are
adorned with marabou or heavy oriental
embroidery.
The shapes are so varied that were any
attempt made to describe these mantles
there would be no end. Suffice II to say
that all lengths, degrees CT fullness, vari-
atoms Of the lower line and disposition
of ends are allowable. the individuality
of the designer coming into play as the
deciding voice.
The effect of these transparent wraps
over the filmy evening gowns OF the sea-
son Is understandable. Mere man might
ridicule and scorn the idea OF chiffon
cloak, but flaupt one Of these before the
sensible Creature. and II he have an ap-
probation OF the beautiful he will up
hold you in your choice of a lovely ac-
cessory.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
I lOUSE=
HOLD
| HINTS
How to Prepare a Rose Jar.

Dear Mrs. Telford:
Kindly let me know through your most
valuable column how to prepare a rose
jar, as 1 have a friend, a florist, who
can give me all the dead roses l want.
Also. can 1 use some oil of roses In the
different ingredients? Also, how much
would the Oil of roses cost, and what
quantity should be used? 0. B. H.
Strip off the rose leaves and dry on
papers spread on the floor in an unused
room. When you have half peck fine
dry leaves take a large china OF glass
bowl and strew a handful table salt on
the bottom. Add three or four handfuls
of the leaves, follow with more salt and
more leaves, until all the leaves are
used. Have the last layer of salt. Let
this remain five days, stirring and turn
ing twice a day.
When they seem moist add three ounces
bruised allspice and two ounces bruised
stick cinnamon. This forms the body of
the stock. Let this remain a week or
more, turning daily from top to bottom.
Then it should be ready for the perma-
nent jar, which should have double lid.
Mix together one ounce each bruised Gin
namon and cloves, two nutmegs coarsely
powdered, two ounces ginger root sliced
thin. one-half ounce bruised anise seed,
one-half pound dried lavender flowers.
two ounces sliced orris root. two ounces
dried orange and lemon peel, 10 grains
of musk and whatever you have in the
way of dried violets, Glove, plnks, tube
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
A Yelled Protest.

WHEN 1t comes TO the point of dis
w playing insects, birds and curiosities
Of the vegetable kingdom on the cheek,
forehead or. perchance. the tip of the
nose, then indeed must be entered a pro-
test that should not be withdrawn until
plain meSheS, that enhance the beauty
Of the woman behind are worn.
A Wearer must, indeed. be a ravishing
beauty who can walk along with the RAYS
of setting sun, in black silk, obscuring
her vision. Attention will certainly be
drawn to the intrepid one, but admira tion.
never! The sensational in dress is never
in good taste.
Let the ROSTERS, butterflies or lizards
be worn by women who lack confidence
in their own good looks; but If refinement
be your standard. shun the style that
brings down the stare of the curious and
the disapproval Of the we'll dressed
a noticeable feature in ribbon acces-
series is the shirring and simulated buckle
or slides, all made in or of the ribbon,
and also the use of dainty drop trim
ming, tassels, rings, disks. ETC., as COM
pletions.
Two or three fairly deep tucks make a
favorite and sensible finish for the ruffie
or the fiounce of the lingerie gown. They
give slight weight to the garment. and
it is a simple matter to launder them
we'll.
So great has been the vogue of the bor
dered materials that manufacturers of
silks have hit upon the idea OF making
the selvage of their materials wider and
heavier than usual, SO that ii may itself
serve as a border.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

make at home. For that is the burden OF
this song.
Happily, the simplicity of some OF tue
best models is copyable and oners ae-
lightfuIly economical way of trimming
The round disks that so we'll hold up
t;;rned brims in place are quite easily
fashioned by amateurs. The looseneo Top
OF a hat pin forms central spot arounu
which a silver cord. gold Dralo OF d
twisted strand of straw can be sewn until
the correct size is secured.
Linen is particularly effective II 1rinsea
and encircled about velvet disk Ban
fringe, silken tassels and plain ordinary
linen fringe bought in the upholstery de-
partment are all capable Of quick adap-
tation for circular forms.
disk that is conical In shape can nc
fashioned from circular piece OF caro-
board slashed in four lines and over
lapped so that the center is forced out In
a point. A few stitches will secure tnls
i'm place, and upon this form straw can
he attached with coarse thread. The IN
PRODUCTION of large beads adds greatly 10
the effect. Speaking of beads, there Is q
vogue that demands the attention OF
women who realize the Importance or
color spots and the wooden beads OF all
sizes are the new forms which answer
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

ECAPITATED heads OF all sorts OF
u birds and fowls, gruesomely speareu
on long steel pins, are now the Id'oreo
hat pins. When the pin Is buried IN the
hat the feathered head rests against the
hat crown like a bit of tri mining, Ihls
10 all we'll and good when the pin Is
thrust all the way In, but when there is
snaee of an inch or two between the nat
and the speared head the effect is rather
unn,easant. This fad is, Of course, in
line with the chantecler craze Tor plFo
trimmings of all sorts. The summer girl
is even wearing poor little dead birds
,;rrad IN her collar instead of necktie
or brooch. At least, they appear to be
poor little dead birds. though as ma1'er
of fact. they are really built, feather upon
feather, over a wadded 1ouhoatloh III
most harmless manner.
Make and Stir Tea at the Same Time.
THE teaball spoon is the latest addi-
ton in the silver shops. This Is an
ordinary silver spoon with a rather deep
howl which has hinged cover. This
spoon holds just enough tea leaves to
turn cup of boiling water into deli
cious tea: and while one is stirring. the
color deepens until the right shade of
golden brown is reached. The Japanese
and Chinese, who are famous teamakers,
never boil the tea itself. Boiling water
is poured over the tea leaves, and after
ready TO drink. Tea allowed to steep
for half an hour on the back of the stove
is most Injurious to stomach and nerves,
and only when freshly made in the orien-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

sleeves and skirt are thus trimmed. and
a narrow band tops the deep hem on the
skirt.
So that the skirt will not beatoo heavy,
a facing of white batiste lines the deep
hem at the bottom. This is resorted to
in many handsome and heavy materials.
The lack of handwork on the heavier
summer frocks is distinctly noticeable.
even in France. The last hat is a white
chip with a crown of coarse white straw
and an aigrette of dark blue.
1t is an accepted fact that the prevail
ing skirt is narrow and without pleats;
that its heavy hem weights the bottom.
and that few gathers appear In the one
piece bodice. In other words, slim is
the note Of the midsummer season.
for several hours in the ice chest to
harden. When turned out the pink rose
cleaning through the thin cover of, trans
parent jelly gives beautiful effect.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

mand invariably in summer time.
Simply made, they are durable and
launderable, and, above all, they are
easy to make, and SO planned that the
novice who undertakes them can hard.J
fail to work them out to good effect.
The frock with the coin spot decorations
on yoke and sleeves is of gray linen the
dots done in heavily padded white cotton
and the neck and sleeve finished with
heavy linen lace, which in this case was
white, but could as well be dyed gray.
The coin spots are embroidered after the
garment is basted and fitted to insure
their correct position. A deep hem effect
is secured by the stitching on of bias
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

band nearly half the depth Of the skirt.
Firm linen is excellent for the develop
ment of the one-piece kimono blouse,
and the same material is always desira
BILE for the implicated five-gored skirt,
which is now popular in Paris. The
stylish plack hat on the wearer of this
frock is trimmed at the one side only
with huge white satin bow.
The pretty central figure wears bleu
de ro linen of the hopsacking quality,
with a left-front fastening and a sug-
gested repetition of the fastening at the
right side. The bands on bodice and
skirt are all made of a darker shade of
the linen and the buttons covered with
the lighter shade. This bodice is mount
ed upon an Irish lace collar and the cuffs
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
A Butterfly Cloak.

An EXCEPTIONALLY full. graceful
"A and, what is welcome to the home
dressmaker, easily designed evening cloak
is of silk. which in it's supple folds over
the shoulders resembles the wings of
butterfly.
When the arms are held straight out
from the sides the mantle shows upper
winged shapes over the arms. while the
capelike lower portion is divided at the
back in winglike sections. Embroidery
in beads and silk is used in immense
disks on front, back and sleeves.
The whole effect is of gorgeous but
terfly which is at rest when the arms are
down and attractively on the wing when
the wearer chooses to move.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
For the Short Woman.

a E'TER ALL it is the short woman VINO
n must view the changes OF FASHION
with the critical eye, for there are al
ways certain styles that she cannot wear
with impunity. She has not the good
fortune TO be able to adopt any new line,
but must always modify it with view
to making the most of the height that
Is hers.
TUNES, for instance, must be worn with
a difference. The short woman must not
divide her skirt length by two by wearing
the favorite half or three-quarter length.
The double or triple skirts that are COM
ing back perhaps as reflection of the
tunic line, must be eschewed by this type
of woman. And alas for the slightly
gathered skirts that tend to increase the
width at the hips and correspondingly
lessen the height. They are to be re-
served for the taller figures.
Striped materials. of course. with a
vertical disposition of the lines, are a
boon to short figures, and the edict that
stripes are to return should be a mes
sage of hope for all who are blessed
with one eye for the good-looking. Large
patterns, coin spots or brilliant colors
must be denied the short wearer. Plain.
neutral tones. with panel enects ana
trimming that Is Incorporated III iois
lines, must be accepted and made to
show the figure at its best by distract
ing attention from the breadth or
shoulders or hips.
OF course, the extremely short coat
must be reserved for the svelte inquire
beloved of the fiction writer, and although
our shorter sisters greeted with disinay
the mandate that abolished the long top
coat, yet there has been made provision
for all by the arbiters of fashion.
You will notice that coats, although de-
cidedy shorter than those of last season.
have panel effects and braiding applied
SO that length of line is still retained
When choosing jacket remember this.
An excess of pleats on the skirt in
creases width and emphasizes shortness
of stature Plain tailored skirts for day
time and trained dresses for evening are
recommended.
AS a parting suggestion. let the short
woman look TO her hat. The ridiculous
sight of woman balancing hat whose
diameter is one-half of her height must
he seen to be appreciated. Once viewed
from u distance. il will not be soon for
gotten. Possibly the most important
thing to he observed by short woman
Is her own silhouette in a convenient mir
ror. She must realize the most becoming
lines and profit by a close inspection OF
her figure in its various aspects.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

of the set are clipped beneath the sleeves
below the elbow, while a short piece of
Irish edge is frilleu for a distance of six
inches at the lief. side. The charm of
the skirt lies in its band trimming. so
shaped as to suggest a modification Of
the Ieep hem line. A black patent leath-
err belt is the fashionable finish of this
servicea BILE frock, and a large blue straw
hat makes the costume less monotonous
by it's trimming of pink and red roses.
The white linen model. with a square
neck of cluny lace, is a third variation
O. the one-piece blouse and the deep-hem
skirt. This garment fastens at the back,
is girdlled with a white kid belt and its
finish throughout is the same white linen
with stitched edges. Both the neck and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

-: e: s: :: i: 4: ):
green season. There are
styles in colors just as decidedly as i'll
lines or lengths. But one color combina-
ton holds its own through the turning Of
the color wheel-the friendly black and
white in checks, stripes or of different
materials. When successfully handled
black and white is generally becoming
and always good looking.
From Paris the edict has gone forth
that black and white is the idea that is
most favored for street wear or for more
formal occasions in the evening.
The checked suitings lend themselves
to various ideas. A walking suit of
shepherds plaid is now either the peren-
nially good looking, strictly tailored suit
or it is more ornamental, displaying trim
ming of braid. buttons. satin revers or
collar. and giving excellent opportunity
for displaying a brilliantly colored vest.
Checked materials are of a safe size to
be becoming to large and small women,
and the cut of the material does not in
any way alter a good effect, although in
the hands of an adept the lines of fig
,.re can be considerably changed.
Serge suits of cream with stripes are
another field in which most wearers can
revel. The hairline is safe for all. adding
to apparent height and giving back
ground for black trimming that does not
produce a contrast too startling.
Black and white foulard is deserving OF
its firm hold on the best dressed women.
1t Is cool, and yet offers no terrifying
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
Notes and Novelties.

tai fashion is the beverage healthful and
stimulating in the right degree.
Chantecler Pocket Handkerchiefs.
THE very latest flandkerchiefs are of
1 beautifully fine linen with gay little
roosters embroidered in one corner. Some
times an owl or a guinea hen is used in
stead of the bonny chantecler, and the
work is beautifully executed. each detail
Of the bird being faithfully portrayed by
the tiny embroidered stitches. A white
linen handkerchief with tiny hen in
pale tan and a little pheasant embroidered
in shades of tan and brown is really very
dainty. Other handkerchiefs show hens
of cockscomb red and white Leghorn
roosters with gray yellow bills and fam
ing red combs and Wattles.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

roses. orange blossoms, lemon verbena
and bergamot.
A little dried rosemary is also an
addition. Now pack the rose leaves in
the jars in layers, putting the fragrant
mixture of spices between each layer
When filled pour in a liquid mixture
made from a pint of Florida water. the
same amount magnolia water and little
of the essential oils of such perfumes as
rose geranium. violet, jessamine, or any
thing else you desire. This is not neces-
sary, but IS a great addition. Shake and
stir once a week and open daily for a
few months, taking care not to leave 1t
uncovered any length of time.
Rose leaves and other fragrant flowers
may be added through the season. but
salt must be used also. as in the begin
ming. This pot-pourri is expensive in the
making, but will retain its delicate fra
GRANGE for quarter OF century. Your
druggist will quote you prices on the oils.
and you get the amount you desire.
Other Timely Uses for Fresh Rose
Leaves.
Other timely uses for fresh rose leaves
are for the flavoring of cakes and pud-
dings. for the finger bowl. for scattering
carelesslv over the table cloth at rose
luncheons or teas, for throwing in front
Of brides or browning the sweet girl
graduates. Simply dried, with salt enough
to preserve them, they make a delight
fully fragrant pillow for the baby's crib
or carriage
Rose Jelly.
Charming decorative pieces are made
of the transparent gelatine jelly and wild
rose. or rose petals. Make a plain lemon
jelly. fiavoring with rose. Pour a very
thin layer OF the liquid jelly into indi-
vidual round or oval molds, and let it
harden. Then lay upon it a single briar
rose or grouping of rose petals. and fill
the mold with the liquid Jelly. Set away
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12
Special Correspondence Of The Star.

fARiS. June =. i3lp
HE touch of black is delightfully."-
given its French expression in
many ways that prove the Won
derfuI cIeverness Of the MILL
nerS over here. In the first
place, a large bunch or cocarde of flowers
now has a form of silk in the colored
cluster. Daisies viii he formed around a
black velvet or satin form that takes on
the shape of the outer flowers. The silk
rose. too. is having its day, giving to a
mass OF brilliant flowers or tuIle the
black spot which most of us recognize as
the powerful note of contrast
Then. again. black is used to bind the
edge of dresden ribbon. of cretonne.
Chintz or the ubiquitous changeabe silk.
II is usually less than an inch in width.
and is an easy solution of the durable
trimming for morning hats OF coarse
straw. Turbans, iridescent I'm effect, of
many colors of maline or tulie, are given
touches of black by the addition OF choux
of black satin. Flowers of extreme bril-
Iance-the cornfiower blue, by the way,
being the most in evidence-are yelled
with black tuIIe or net. You see how the
invasion of black Is a general one and
undeniaby successful.
Poplin for suits is quite in evidence.
particularly good model shown by Cherut
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

OLLOW the out
lines of these pref
ty models in either
white or colored
linen and they will
result successfully
as m | d S u m m e
frOcks, to be worn
without coats. They
have been designed
on French lines for
American Wearers,
and they hold a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

certain Partisan charm, combined with
our own practical qualities, which we de-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

- IRsT select becoming shape OF
good-looking straw, give IT the
right turn or twist and ornament
il with an effective buckle, ca
bochon or plaque that you can
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-12

The sleeve cut in one with the corsage
is quite the rage, in spite of tine fact
that it is not generally becoming.