Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-10-23

One was in linon, embroidered with
'oofiquets of cilfy nj hemums in relief
The skirt was trimmed with an incrusta-
ton of thread Cluny lace, Forming a tunic
Inc very pretty chemisette was of cIuny
with square incrustations OF very fine
Thread lace, which showed underneath 1t
a lining of pink chiffon \ delightful
nttle Louis XIV Jacket completed the
toilet 1t was gracefully made Of en-
broidered linon. with CIuny insertion. the
shoulder straps were finished of I'm front
ana low in the back by Louis XIV paste
buttons
Another very pretty toilet seen the
same evening was in nattler blue chiffon
ne straight skirt, skillfully cut, so that
Il gave a slim elegance to the silhouette
was drawn I'm round the feet under A
ueep hem of soft satin i'm a matching
shade. with gathered rouleau of the
chiffon. The full bodice was held in at
the waist by band of soft pleated chIf-
ron tied on one side with a rosetta bow
and finished with long floating ends The
bodice was cut square and hlled i'm with
chemisette of point d'esprit tule en-
r1ched with applications of embroidery
and 'soutaches," while the outlines were
marked by natter blue ''soutache" en-
hroidery: a charming hat was worn
with this gown made in shepherdess
shape, and covered smoothly with the
same shade satin. Round the crown
there was wreath of La France roses
anu painters despair, that bright and
dainty little blue flower that no artists
brush has Vet been able adequately to
depict, emphasizing the note of blue al
ready struck by the blue gown.
Deep mems OF satin are very fashion,
able where afternoon frocks are con-
eerned. They are mostly In evidence in
the strafght. tight skirts of the diminu-
endo order. and are very charming now
city of the season. strikngly pretty
model 1 saw was of pale TURQUOISE fou-
yelled Sha1 L.
lilac, arranged with a fairly full skirt
drawn in some little distance above the
ankles under deep hem of black satin.
which covered The lower part of the skirt
to the extent of some fourteen inches
This hem is adorned on one side with
large buttons of bright jet and loops OF
black satin. similar arrangement being
made to fasten the tunic on the left side.
while the waist belt is of folded black
chiffon.
~One thing stands out with great dis
tnctiveness-the craze for yelling Per-
haps only those who are I'm the thick OF
the fray can properly grasp how great IN
obsession this is. Nothing is exempt.
from our hats downward. Yelling. briefly.
is the gospel for the modes OF 1910
saw one pretty model made after the
style of one OF the very latest fads, the
dress of the seven wells as it is called.
Mauve and rose-pink. hyacinth and blue,
gray. and with two shaoes OF leaf-green
were the exquisite colors chosen. Chiffon
was draped with fairy lightness into an
indescribably beautiful and intangible hue
over a fourreau or underdreSs of soft
rose-colored satin, and all these pale
shades had very cloudy effect The
bodice OF the frock was very prettily ar
ranged with bands of the yelled satin and
rose-colored chiffon, with silver embroid-
cries. also yelled. as was the silver en-
o,nly nrvin hA
gathers on the straight skirt. Inside the
V-shaped heck there was chemisette Of
real Brussels lace. touch of extrava-
sance which gave dainty charm 10 the
whole toilet
black velvet picture hat was worn
with this gown, turned up smartly at the
side, and adorned with a single and very
handsome ostrich plume in lovely
mauve shade, while under the brim a
frilled mob-cap, lace-edged, rested upon
the hair.
l must draw attention to the new hats.
of which / have seen some lovely speci-
mems. The turban just now occupies the
center of the millinery stage, and the
correct adjustment Of these chapeaux Is
to place them deep over the wearer s
head, concealing all the hair at the back,
and creating a novel silhouette. Velvet Is
the popular material for these turbans.
A becoming millinery combination Is
SAKE blue. and black, and is very at
tractive on a woman with good COM
y X
The latest chic of the French hat is to
be a. little trimmed as possible and yet
to have an extraordinary appearance OF
complete elegance A particular feature
of the seasons hats is the decided turn
up. either at the back or at one side. the
side tilt being nearly always at the left.
Right hand trimmings are also popular.
a Visee Lebrun which was on view
at well known shop in the Rue de la
PaiX. quite took my fancy. VISION OIL
wondrous pale-pink maline tulle. and en-
circled with roses and transparent TO-
liage-a dream fitted TO crown the head
of beauty; pray heaven no ugly woman
may buy ii,
Caps will be a feature of the autumn
millinery and even in the winter they
will be much in evidence worn with wide
brimmed beaver hats. one OF the latest
Paris fads is to have the hair completely
hidden, and for this purpose the mob cap
has been invented This lace-frilled cap
entirely hides the hair and completely
frames the face. over this the hat,
sometimes of coloring and trimming TO
match the cap. forms picturesque &C
cessory. A very pretty model of a COM
bination hat was seen at Trouyille. The
hat was OF plain black satin. trimmed
with a wreath of pink silk rosebuds. and
the cap was also OF black satin edged
with black lace and tiny pompon roses.
But the prettest combination. in my
opinion, is the white lace or white muslin
cap, and the large black picture hat.
Some of these models are altogether be-
witching, and. when worn by the right
woman. very becoming
One of the most important features Of
present-day smartness in dress. among
maids and matrons. is excessive neatness
that personal finish that goes by the
horsy expression Of being well groomed."
1t will not avail any woman. however
IA shionable her tailor may be-or her
she cultivates that