Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-13
UNDERMINING sHOEMAKING.
Wonderful Machinery Shown in Der
berich Exhibit Operations of the
Goodyear Welt System.

The machines shown In the Berberich exhibit
form one of the most interesting groups imag-
Unable, and many compliments have been paid
to this Arm ON the enterprise which could con-
ceive and carry TO successful conclusion SO
ambitious an undertaking. 1t Is also a sterling
testimonial TO the character of the ''Craddock''
shoe for men. for the Utmost Ieccsses Of the
shoe are laid open for critical inspection and
representatives from the Craddock-Terry factory
in Lynchburg. Va. present TO answer any
questions regarding the quality of the
terials used or the details Of the wonderful
Goodyear Welt System employed in making
them.
AS a shoe is made either a comfort or a tor
ment in its manufacturing process, the follow
ing brief details regarding the construction of
Goodyear Welt shoe will interest not only the
thousands who have already visited the ex-
hibit but those who are sure to do 50 before
its close.
Evolution Of a shoe.
In the evolution OF a Goodyear Welt shoe from
that embryonic state in which IL is mere
leather and thread" to that perfect product
which has contributed much To the comfort
hundred and six different pairs Of hands, and
is obliged to conform to the requirements Of
fifty -eight different machines. each performing
with unyielding accuracy the various operations
for which is was designed.
In the beginning the different parts forming
the shoe upper cut from carefully selected
leather; the edges carefully finished; the lin
ings and various stays prepared and the whole
carefully stitched together, the eyeiets through
which the shoe Is laced set I'm position. and
the whole is ready to be placed the wooden
last, which determines the size and shape Of
the shoe.
To the bottom of this last there has already
been tackled, by the United Shoe Machine Com
parry Insoie Tacking Machine. insole which
is just the shape of the bottom Of the last
This insole has been previously prepared by
having a little slit cut along the edge ON a
slight bevel toward the center. Another little
slit inside the nrst and the opposite
slant Is cut, and the two turned outward so
that they stand at right angles to the face Of
the insole.
The toe box. which gives permanent form 10
the toe Of a shoe. is put in place. coated with
peculiar elastic gum by the Rex Box Toe
Company Machine. The operator now places
the upper on the last so that every seam comes
In just the position designed. and a tack driven
part way in by the Rex Assembling Machine
holds IL in position at the heel.
An Important Operation.
Now comes Of the most important opera
Rex Pulling Over Machine draws the
leather smoothly around the last. the operator
adjusts the machine that every seam In the
upper lies at just the exact position intended.
second pressure the foot lever OF the ma
chine, and two tacks driven on each sd. OF
the toe hold the upper at that point securely
in place.
The Consolidated Hand Method Lasting Ma
chine now draws each portion Of the upper
securely down TO the last. taking the stretch
from the leather, and tacEs driven automa ticaly
but part way In hold it there. The toe portion |
Is smoothly drawn around this part OF the shoe |
by the ingenious United Shoe Machinery Com.
pany's Lasting Machine No. 8. These opera
lions are most carefully performed. and the |
lasts are not removed until the shoe is finished. |
70 the shoes hold their shape and are comfort
able; they are not drawn tightly in one place |
and loosely in another.
The Rex Upper Trimming Machine now trims
~ all the surplus parts Of the shoe upper and /
Tithdravs the tacks which held the iDsOle to !