The sun., 1910-06-05

The bottom Of the skirt was oi uAlcA
velvet, a girdle u black velvet ran around
the sides and hack. disADpearing IN front,
and narrow hands Of velvet bOrdered the
uollarless neck and the elbow sleeves.
A white swiss dotted finely in black
and bOrdered in Caohemire design Of
blue and orange tones h being made In
an uptown workrOOm and will have
girile and choux og soft blue ribbon
and plated frills Of white edged by the
nRrrOwest Of black lace.
For evening wear plain white and plain
black chiffon are combined in many ways,
usually with relieving dash Of color.
Dr6coll sends out a model. illustrated
here. which has a foundation Of white
satin veiled in black chiffon. save in the
irant. where the yelling is Of white chiffon.
Pearl embroidery runs widely around the
d6collets bodice top and appears again
on the skirt. filing the intervals betWeen
vide eyslets. through which wide soft
blos scarf n threaded. The girdle too
10 blue.
The scarf holding in the skirt below
the knees IL y Characteristic feature of the
seasons modes and when the Oonfining
idea Ia not exaggerated the effect 10 often
happy one. Many Of the sheer summer
srocks are made up with softly fulled or
tucked skirts. trimmed with two scant
hoImCes between which a scarf OF satin
encircles theskirt either under the material
or upon 10. The full upper skirt droOping
~ al
falls full and straight is frequsntly re-
peated. sometimes SUCCESSFULLY. often
aWkwardly.
pretty ribbon treatment marked
blus and white silk mOusssllne frock
shown in a Fifth avenue shop last week.
There was a plain blue yoke and kimORo
short sleeve. The bodios Of blue and
white was f,illed 10 the yoke by a number
Of tiny shirred cords and pIHs. The
skirt was full and about six inches below
the knees was drawn into a group Of
corded shirrs and puiis.
A three inch band OF blue ribbon was
set plainly into the skirt just below this
group and was bordered along it, lower
edge by a similar group. From this
lower series Of cords the material fell
full. 20 be caught up 10y a second ribbon,
over which IL dropped in = soft pun. and
which was knOtied at the left front Be
low was a hand Of plain blue.
The midsummer muslin frOcks In some
cases carry out the yelling idea through
the Use Of sheerest mQll or batiste or other
white material made with the utmost sim-
plicity on the linas liked for chiffon. gauze.
&c.. but falling over an under rObs eX-
quisitely embroidered or lace trimmed.
This IL an extreme. and extravagant:
there are delightful models Of the class
whioh seem the last word Of coquettish
elegance.
White cotton etamine is made up in this
fashion too. and one Of the 6tamine models
has absolutely no exterior trimming save
white satin bands bordering skirt. neck
and sleeves. though ths under robe II
elabOrately embroidered in inset with
heavy and fine laces. Openwork en-
brOidery in bold design on linon oftsn
forms an entire under robe, and again
you =es a tunic Of it over an under robs
of soft valenciennes or Of null trimmed
IN fine laces.
The opsnwork on linon or on the heavier
linens ls used too in combination with
white sheer cotton stuhs for charming
short bsaoh frocks or aftsFnoon frocks.
the embroidery being used for the bottom
OF the akirt and holding a soft full upper
skirt Of the sheer material into the APP
proved lines. while the blouse may he Of
the sheer Whits fullsd TO a yOkS cut in
one with a sleeve OF the embroidery.
Openwork embroidery in color or white
u popular too. and c0lOred cot9ons and
linsns are effectively embroidered in open
work designs Of white or black.
Self trimming. a. has been noted before,
IL Increasingly popular and gives q quaint
old fdshi0ned simplicity 20 some Of the
shser frOcls. Shirred cords. tucks. tiny
puHs. ruohea, plaitinEs quillings are all
used and soms dainty little models In
etarnine. chiffon, &C. have absolutely no
other trimming save plated frills of lace
around the collarless neck and sleeves
A delicate mauve chiffon, for example.
Il made over pale pink satin The fun
blouse is held in AZ the waist by a cluster
Of corded shirrings and the full skirt is
confined toward the bottom by two groups
of these corded shirrinEs below which
the chiffon falls full and limp.
Around the demi-decolletAge a cluster
Of the shirt fastens the blouse 20 a shallow
plain guimpe Of fine cream lace. The
exquisite coloring and materials Of the
FroCk give il an air distinctly French.
yet nothing could well have been more
simple
This matter Of color scheme IL of vital
| importance this season vital in all seasons
hut particularly 80 now, when combinations
have such a vogue Inspiration shows
itself here and the French undoubtedly
l have the bstter Of Americans in this field
Delicious color combinations ara effected
in the summer frocks. combinations often
a. audacious a. they are delightful
Never within recent years were vivid
oolors used a. fully a. they are now
vet 20 beautiful are these cOlors and a.
cleyerly are they handled that they Dc
not assault the eve.
Then there are color schemes from
which the daring note Is lacking For
instance. there IL in one importers show.
rooms a most delectable creation in soft
pink satin. veiled IN mole gray chiffon
and trimmed in amythist velvet and
another wonderful frock in faded iris,