The Caucasian. (Shreveport, La.) 1900-192?, 1910-04-26
MOUNT m'kINLEY
ASCENT DOUBTED
Charles Sheldon Says Public
Should Await More Details.
some POINTS INCREDIBLE

New Yorker Familiar With Region
About the Peak Points Out That
Only One of Fairbanks Expedition
Has Reported Its Success.
Charles Sheldon, big game sports
man and explorer of New York city,
who for years has known Tom Lloyd,
Charles McGonnigle and W. R. Taylor,
three of the four men who, according
to Lloyd, reached the top of Mount
Mckinley on April 8, declared the 9TH
er night that the public could well af-
ford to await a fuller report of the
details of the ascent before complete
acceptance of the claim.
Mr.. Sheldon has hunted big game
and explored all through the Alaskan
country about the base of Mount Nc
Kfnley. He said he was thus fully ac-
quainted with many of the difficulties
which any party would have to sur
mount to reach the top Of this tallest
peak on the American continent.
Il think" said he, 1T is due to Tom
Lloyd and the three others with him
to withhold judgment as to the partial
statements transmitted from Fair
banks to the effect that they reached
the summit Of Mount Mckinley. The
press reports contain so many asser-
tons that are not in accordance with
the facts that little reliance can be
placed on them. 1t is not reasonable
to believe that the party had an ane-
roid barometer which would record an
altitude of 20.500 feet with any degree
of accuracy. 1t is ridiculous to sug-
gest that trail was established to the
top of the mountain. 1t is ridiculous
to say that snowshoes were used most
OF the way up the mountain.
Top of the Mountain a Double Summit.
1T is reported that the flag they left
at the summit could be seen from the
north side of the mountain, which
would be an impossibility. since the
top of Mount Mckinley is a double
summit, consisting Of two ridges ex.
tending east and west The south
ridge, which is the eliminating peak.
cannot be seen from the north.
1.-THE leader of the expedition, Tom
Lloyd, and also Charlie McGonnigle
and Billy Taylor, are personal friends
of mine, but do not know Patterson.
Lloyd Is perhaps sixty or more years
old. McGonnigle and Taylor are very
hardy young men, among the best dog
''mushers' in the country and thor
oughly familiar with winter travel.
particularly in that district. None of
the three, however, knows anything
about technical mountain climbing.
They have never seen an Alpine rope
or an ice ak and are not familiar with
technical mountaineering equipment
81 have worked and Travelled with
these three men in winter feel quite
certain that. although they had been
within a distance of six or eight miles
Of the base of Mount Mckinley. none
OF them had been ON the slope before
the alleged ascent. | believe that the
method they adopted TO investigate
route of ascent in the spring with dogs
Is the correct way to find route to
the summit, and particularly along the
eastern ridges, where. the press re-
ports imply. the ascent was made
Difficulties of an Ascent Trenss ei9..s.
The difficulties are tremendous. not
so much the intense cold as the fact
that even willows for fuel wood IL,
not grow within five or six miles ~
the base of the mountain. and timber
Is at least six miles distant aud Prob
ably even farther from an approach
by the east ridges. This would npces
state on extra amount Of Iaatari.ti for
fuel.
The difficulties of an ast ent are So
great that. though Metionnigle ana
Taylor are courageous and capable of
enduring the cold and physical work.
great deal of public sskepticism. par
Ecularly among those who are familiar
with the hardships OF mountain climb
ing, is sure to exist.
Therefore 1t is clearly the duty of
the press, both to the public and to
these men, not to encourage full cred /
ibility In the reports of the alleged
ascent until the facts and details are
authoritatively published. which will
enable US to form an intelligent iudg.
ment. Only Tom Lloyd apparently
brought out the report. the other men,
bers of the party having remained in
the Kantishna district, $50 miles away,
so we haven't their corroborative evil
dence.''
Mr.. Sheldon went to this region in
1906 for sport and exploration. spend
ing some time at the base of Mount
Mckinley and on the slope, He went
again in the summer of 1907 and spent
year there.
A Mayors Bureau For Kicks"
Mayor Fitzgerald of Boston an
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