Omaha daily bee., 1910-03-20

- Me. LA MODE is no respector
" of history, chronology, nor sea-
IWH sons. In less than a twelve
- month she has stepped airily
R$S9Nl out of King Dagobert's tog-
49, gerry into the cuirass of the
Middle Ages and thence into the courtly
costumes Of Louis the Fifteenth's time.
Now her capricious head has been turned
by military regalia and through the sum
mer months are approaching she is don
ming the modified uniform OF the Russian
Cossack, with complete Indifference to the
fact that It is obviously a winter effect.
So the puzzled purveyors to her lady
ships whims have had to sklrmish ex-
ceedingly to adapt the style to spring
and summer usage. The result is an in
finite variety of bloused and belted gar
ments, but all showing the u~nmistakable
Russian Influence, even to the trimmings
Of broderie russo and to the buckles and
clasps bearing the Russian eagles head.
Conservative buyers in this country,
however, sound a warning note in the
declaration that the Russian models will
undoubtedly be favored in the dressier
suits and three-pieee costumes, but that
the seven-eighths fitting tailored suits,
twenty-six to thlrty-two inches in length,
will easily hold their own. These will be
hAdut WIN lOlB Ipll anu hONClIN NOAidTS
and the left side lap, approaching almost
to a blazer style when the roll collar is
emphasized. A novelty in these tailored
garments is the Introduction OF lingerie eff
fects. Pleated German valenciennes edging
the collar and cuffs adds that touch Of
lacy daintiness that feminizes the most
strictly tailored suit.
The developments of the Russian blouse
effect range from the simplicity of the
blouse coat brought into the waist line
with a patent leather belt, to the satin
coats that are shirred or pleated into belts
OF gold braid or silk embroidery. II is
whispered In the inner circles OF the Paris
Ian modistes that before the end of sum
nier the regretfully relinquished Elton and
bolero will come into distinct favor again.
We had had the long coats for several
successive seasons now and the pendulum
may naturally enough swing from their
length TO the abbreviation of the Elton and
bolero, The home dressmaker will rejoice
ct this change, for the simple style OF the
shcrt coats does not present the difficult
ties In maklng-nor the expenditure-that
the larger garments do.
But there seems to be a law of COM
pensation In fashion as in other things.
When two yards is subtracted from the
coat four yards is added to the skirt. A
has the skinny, clingy skirt OF yesterday.
PleRts are back again in every delightful
style Of frou-frou. The novelty in the
seasons skirt is. OF course, the tunic or
half-drRped effect over a pleated flounce.
The apron tunic is shown in many Of the
ready-made models, but since there are no
hip seams whatever to allow alterations,
IL is necessary to bbtaln a perfect fit In
the beginning, which is not always an easy
matter. The side pleated skirt, which
proved so becoming TO most figures has
returned TO favor, as has also every varia-
uon thereof-the plain. panel alternating
with a pleated one. side cores combining
pleats below the hip line,
Serge is undoubtedly the most popular
fabric for the street suits, the marine blue
that was SO much worn during the win
ter Continuing in favor. So IL be serge
one can make no mistake In the selection
OF material for the spring suit. since every
weave from the fine twill serge to the
fancy ana rough weaves will be used.
Novelty cheviots, particularly In the black
and white, or pepper-and-salt effects, two
toned diagonal, basket cloths ard mat
weaves will be used in the more expensive
suits. The tendency Is toward the sott
rough cloths, including homespuns and
worsteds. The pin-stripe serses IL is eX-
pected will be much worn. especially those
with the hair-line stripe OF black, from
one-half to three-quarters Of an inch apart,
on a white ground. or the white line on a
navy blue ground.
Although the three-piece suit In the
more elaborate styles viii persist. the silk
suit, consisting only Of skirt and coat,
bids fair TO push to the front again as the
smart apparel for semi-dressy occasions.
Tussah and pongee silk are used almost
exclusively In these suits. though ribbed
and corded effects are also good. Foulards,
which grew and grew TO such extrava-
gance in sprawl and color that they lost
favor with the discriminating woman. are