davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

sleeves are three-quarter length.
edged with a velvet band and outlined
at the shoulder line with velvet but
tons studded with dull opaque green
beads.
Suppose that madame cannot afford
long fur coat? Do not despair. The
clever French salesman will bring out
for your criticism q long velvet one,
with perhaps q touch Of fur at collar,
revers and cuffs. The skirt will be
straight and scant, while the lining
will be almost too beautiful to hide.
Possibly he will shrug his shoulders
and say "Voi1ar which is another
way Of saying that it is yours. for,
indeed, these coats are irresistible.
In evening gowns the latest thing q
the scarf train. A long. pointed train
Is carried over the arm in graceful, old
time lines. The Ney Soeurs are show
ing many Of these gowns In their
rooms at the Place vendome. A salmon
brocade model. very simply made, has
a high waist line outlined in silver
cord, a draped net bodice and q cord
for an edging on the skirt. A loop in
this is skillfully wound over the arm,
giving attractive folds when carried
this way and making 1t very comfort.
able for strollers. Indeed, 1t will be
fashionable for every gentleman at
least to be good-tempered at prone
nades.
Coque feathers In white tipped with
colors are quite popular on turbens.
Big black velvet shapes are either trim
med with plumes or with huge bows Of
milan or venetian lace. These are
worn in the evening.
There Is q decided vogue for all an
tique laces.
The combination Of two materials still
is used by the majority OF modistes.
With the black and white striped vel
vets there is generally used black or
white cloth.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20


~ many women are putting-noth-
ing!
Perhaps a quill made Of white kid
is more to your liking? Soft suede.
channels or glazed kid will do. and
any old midrib Of a quill will serve
for central vein around which you
can sew the long cut forms.
A gardenia OF white kid made OF
many round petals is another Partisan
idea.
The cabochon Of wooden beads or OF
metallic thread graces the turned-uD
brim Of q beaver or felt.
Merely silver or gold cord, as thick
as your little finger. IL tied around
the crown, with its tive tasseled ends
hanging over the brim.
A butterfly form OF satin. OF velvet.
or Of both, IS placed on many velvet
turbans
Feather disks, wheels or buckles are
used on felt or cloth turbans.
The two long quilts that suggest
Robin Hood often appear on the high
crowned shapes.
Last of all. do not put too much
trimming on the side Of your turban!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

Many black velvet dresses are trim.
med with three different kinds OF lace.
Gold and silver 1aces are frequently
combined on satin Of delicate colorings.
And a veritable shower Of color alliances
that sound startling. but are attra ctive
in bizarre fashion. are being dis
played. Red with purple, yellow and
red, green and yellow, are a few ex-
amples OF the fearlessness Of a few de-
signers.
Many black velvet cloche-shaped
hats have facings OF white satin and
bands Of ermine.
Immense white hats are draped with
metal tissue over blue or rose. Thick
cords and tassels trim them.
II you have narrow bands Of fur.
why not edge the lace bow for your
evening hat?
Long black caraca1 coats have white
fox collars and cuffs. Indeed. the sue
cess OF black and white has been SO
decided that modistes are using every
means OF continuing this color combi-
nation far into the season.
ELOIsE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

blue satin-nattier blue-covered in cas-
lily stitched lines of soutache. Cuffs Of
this trimming edge the three-quarter-
length sleeves that are the favorite ex-
tension Of the bodice. Collars and sub
cuffs are Of lace. These are most sat
isfactory II made on a lawn or batiste
lining, making a change of guimpes
possible and lessening the wear on lace
collars.
There is great vogue for white
satin in Paris. For women to whom
colors are not becoming, the soft
white silk is suggested for afternoon
wear The second model shows white
silk with a military touch Of dull sill
yer braid and buttons. These outline
the shoulder seam and form q shield
at the front. A tiny bow Of black is
caught at the collar line, the long
ends reappearing at buttonholed slots
below the yoke. Braid and buttons
are used on the cuffs. Observe again
the undersleeves Of lace to match tho
yoke.
Dull crepe de chine in a soft gray u
shown in combination with silver lace
and braid. A panel effect IL shown, the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
Scarf and Muff

~ TRAIGfIT from Paris comes the idea
OF matched set that is less expen-
~ sive than one entirely OF fur, and
vet from the points Of utility and beauty
Is equally successful. A broad band of
black and white striped velvet forms the
body OF the scarf. The central portion
ID cut to At rhe shoulders with a cape
like perfection, and the ends taper to
graceful points. from which hangs
deep fringe.
An timer band Of black fur is used to
outline the entire stole. which is posi-
bly, three yards long. This fur is applied
Just inside the edge. and a quilting of
satin or mdhsseline softens the outer
line.
With this there comes q muff. large,
supple and nat. Striped velvet forms the
central band. on each side Of which is
the fur. and broader putting Of velvet
makes tho assurance Of size doubly sure
Quillings outline the openings at the
sides.
Any idea can be carried out along
tne0e lines. Indeed. there Is no excuse
Tor oid-fashiofed .ets being kept in
camphorated inactivity. Bring them out
ana make them join forces with velvet
or Hlk. The scarf and mum to match
are too good to be missed!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
Velvet Bags

WHEN you gather up the Scraps
wv of your velvet afternoon dress,
don't throw tnem away!
Make them up into a soft bag that
should be carried with the dress. It can
be square or round, and whatever other
material you wish can be combined with
It, A lorg silk cord. or silver or gold If
you wish the metallic note must be at
1ached. This is thrown over the arm.
tapestry or brocade and braid or lace
are easy ways OF decorating the nat
upper surface.
Just as a personal touch, embroider
your monogram in q circle or diamond
down in one corner
Paris Is quite enthusiastic over these
bags and America promises to take up
the fashion. This Is merely q hint to
clever women.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
New Janus Fabric

XYOU OF course remember the keeper
of the gates in classic myth, who
looked forward and backward
with his double face? Well. it's a long
way from mythology to fabrics, but
double-faced material has been evolved
and Is deservediy occupying front rank
1t Is on one side a beautiful CLOTH on
the other a lustrous satin. This means
that the dressmaker can use both sur
faces with wonderful effect.
A bodice Of this fabric can be made OF
cloth. and the deep Louis revers. SO
much in favor just now, can be formed
or the same cloth merely turned back
from the front line. This material en-
ables a deep hem on the skirt to be
made by quick turning up of the
goods: sleeves can be faced. or edged
with bands that are Of contrasting ma
terfal. but are really OF nothing except
the back OF the goods.
For evening capes this cloth Is partic-
ularly adapted. This, II made on
q perfectly plain pattern. can be re-
ersible-now cloth cape. tomorrow a
satin. Scarfs. NUTS and sashes Of this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

The sides are curved almost like the
lines of a bolero and the coat sleeves
pieced out with lace. Here is the
chance to use an old lace waist.
Dark green liberty silk is used in the
last model. Velvet outlines the yoke
that is cut in modified line at the
front over ecru lace. The buttons are of
dull silver, placed on ca ch side of the
front and on the outer edge of each
sleeve.
A silk waist from a little remnant is
quite possible. The becomingness is un-
deniable. The sanction OF Paris and
America Is well deserved and the prac-
teal modish garments popularity is
assured
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
Latest Fashion Notes From Paris

PARIS, Nov. TO-
Vt YOU are fortunate you will
fiaunt long fur coat at the ca
lamity criers who insist that furs
will not supply the demand.
Frenchwomen are very fond Of snug
Cling under the long folds OF fur, and
this season they are more enthusiastic
than ever. Sealskin or very good i'm
itations are in great demand. Under
these long fur coats little one-piece
frocks are worn. They are comfort
ably short in length, and are Of vel
vet, Hght-weight clinging materials or
many combinations Of fabrics.
Drecoll is showing some chic after
noon gowns for wear beneath tho long
fur coats. Prune and bright emerald
a.een charmeuse, black and white
combinations and striped velvets are
in order. One green model Is particu-
larry easy to copy. 1t has bodice OF
dark green velvet made in bolero
style, and on the bottom of the short
skirt "a little wider. If you pleaseD
there is . deep hem Of velvet The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

disposition Of silk buttons and. cord at
each side being particularly chic The
sleeves are bell-shaped and button
trimmed. In this case white mous;seline
forms the collar and yoke: touch of
silver lace is used to outline the
rounded top edge
Black and white are given one more
opportunity to join hands in the seasons
modish alliance. The fourth idea shows
a white crepe de chine blouse to be
worn with a black velvet suit. A
square yoke and straight bands for the
sleeves are of tucked black chiffon
or mousseIine. A collar and cuffs of
Irish lace are added, while six dull jet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

buttons are used on the front. If you
wish touch of color you may use the
shaded enamel buttons that cost much.
but can be worn over and over again.
They come from Paris and are really
pins to be adjusted where and when
you please.
III You have just a little piece Of
material left after the coat and jacket
are made, use it as the next model
suggests. Over a foundation of ali
over lace, cream or dyed to match the
fabric, build the blouse. A shield
shaped front should be stitched and
applied as shown. The two narrow
ends can button over the back portions.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

line bottle an infinitely safer inhabitant
of the house. II gasoline is bought by
the gallon and kept in a can similar to
the one which holds kerosene-as is the
habit in many households-the little tin
king bsll should also be attached to this
can. The mistake of filing a lamp with
gasoline might result in a terrible trag-
edy. yet such a mistake is very easy to
make VIII n the two cans are kept side by
side in the same closet. Gasoline should
in fact. not be kept in the house at all,
but on some sheltered window sill outside
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

looms and caught by quaint buckle that Paris
thinks very smart indeed Don't think TOO?
Below 10 q drawing which shows what may with
Roman scarf Simply loop at the side,
buckle with only the tongue showing
fringed ends hang straight down. evenly
Is about three inches below the other
NsZt grdle that ends in OF quilted
satin. with Satin button in the long tasseled
end caught by another button The
side the back These much
In favor, by the way.
See girdIe. is very smart indeed
for with tailored suits its stiff
directly at the back The tight so that it
cannot lose its shape. and the grdle with
white satin. fastens by Of hooks eyes,
For white gown comes the cerse grdle with its
cut and shaped flower girdle folded twice
to plenty width the which
must yet not give the appearance of stiffness.
Finally, in the other two sashes The
4rst is Of white satin, with ends looped over knot and
falling straight for about three of their length
where they knotted again. The is
With bias band Of oriental embroidery which gold
List Of al comes the long black it's big
DOW ana Its long pointed is very
modish indeed and with black velvet skirt and
sleeve edgings good to disguise remodelnr
last years evening gown "
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

outer sides. Between the two sides is in
serted a piece of lace insertion or en-
broidery.
If the old collar and the insertion to-
gether are wide, this makes the jabot
full enough. but when necessary lace
matching the insertion is placed around
the edges, or two pieces of insertion or
lace and insertion are used in the center.
A hand-embroidered collar with button
holed edges is worth saving and makes a
handsome jabot when combined with Irish
lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

II OSA4N0 va iAoiAAOAi Ia - Va
OF braid and buttons
and the popular chemi-
settes Of lace to insure
freshness at the yoke
and sleeves are the
main factors that con-
tribute to the impor-
lance that these blouses
have attained in the
field Of woman's dress.
ine lazy of the hand
Bug Is wearing a blouse
Of pain dark blue satin.
1t Is trimmed with a
shallow yoke Of lighter
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
NOTES AND NOVELTIES.
How to Remal.e. a White Petticoat

How TO HenaEe a White PetticOat.
IT HE embroidered founce is sure to be
stepped on and torn long before the
top Of a white petticoat begins 20 wear
out. and one well fitting top will usually
do service with two or PERHAPS three sac
cesSivc nounces. The old 6ounce may be
ripped off entirely and new one added
or the worn portion of the embroidery
may be cut away at the bottom and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

makers by an attractive. goodfitting
style that shows silk in its most attract
i've colors, trimmed in clever ways AMI
so designed that tailored suit is in
stantly changed into three-piece gown.
There are no straight silk collars to abb
sorb the oil from the skin; there are no
lines at the shoulder seams that verify
hide the graceful figure under unneces-
sary folds.
LOOK down the line Of attractive
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

six-inch scant flounce of lace and plain
lawn added by means OF beading. 1t
never pays to put fine val lace on the
bottom Of q petticoat for ordinary wear.
Torchon, cluny or some o her strongly wo-
ven lace should be used, and the mex
pensive cotton cluny is quite as good for
this purpose as the high-priced linen sort.
Bell the Gasoline.
A TINY brass bell. such as may be pur-
- chased in any toy department for a
few cents, will make the dangerous gaso-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

--OW different are the silk
blouses of today from
those of a few seasons
ago! The stiff taffeta
model with its ungraceful lines
has been replaced by Partisan
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

worn altogether, but that they will be
those first selected by the women who de-
sire to follow the fashions Many of the
latest designs in women's shoes show
an almost countless number of buttons
These buttons are SO close together that
they can hardly be distinguished by the
Guilty to perform the buttoning opera ton
Velvet has taken the place of suede to a
great extent. and the former mater al
will be much worn during the late fall
and winter. The velvet does not have the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
NEW SASHES AND GIRDLES

Look at the top
girdle In the row to
the left. for instance.
It IL q soft liberty
aafin. fed In TIM lo0sA
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
Velvet and Fur

NF INFINITE charm, and OF un-
doubtedly just as much interest as
~ millinery. fur Is q subject Of which
woman never tires. It ds especially i'm
portant in the discussion Of allied fab
RIGS this season. for fashion has COM
bined fur with velvet. and the effects are
regal.
There is skunk fur that is q very good
imitation Of marten. For trimming any
shades OF velvet it Is very successful,
for the brown tones are harmonious on
iisnu or dark shades.
Australian possum IL another new
claimant for favor, and raecoon IL its
close rival. Tailless ermine Is much in
demand On handsome gowns or hats Of
velvet. while the beautiful though per-
ishable chinchilla vies with moleskin in
the gray section.
Scarfs. muffs. wraps, gowns and hats
are successful and extremely lovely
when of velvet and fur.
dull, faded color of the suede. and is pre-
ferred by many.
Converting a Collar.
A N economical girl can make trim
little jabos out of the fine linen and
turnover collars that used to be worn with
the colored stocks. Each one is cut in
hall. The finished ends that meet at the
back are used as the bottom Of the jabot,
and the finished lower edge makes the two
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

Black and white is by far the best
color combination, but taupe, violet and
Russian. royal and midnight blue are
also favorites.
Red and brown are growing in favor,
and the colors before mentioned are fire.
Quently relieved by rose. cerise and old
gold.
Hats covered with suede or undressed
kid are very new and pretty. They are
in white or color. often are semitrimmed
in the same material and are combined
with other fabrics.
LArge4brimmed hats, covered with
gold gauze and lace. are very striking.
Tho crown is often pulled or draped, and
IN edging Of gold lace extends over the
brfm.
The trimming OF these gold hats is
aimple-a single rose with gold gauxe
collage or q gold cord with tassels.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
Canoes Utilized

TTUGE cameo brooches Of former
Fl days are now once moro brought
- out for the trimming Of dresses
One OF the latest freaks Is to have q
monster cameo within q gilt frame and
a circle Of enamel In the color prevail
ing in the gown. It IL then inserted as
a buckle in the soft folds Of the girdle,
forming a shield in the center OF the
back. the front being left plain.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

the walls, for serious difficulty in regard
to insurance would certainly arise If after
any fire in the house it should be dis
covered that anything so inflammable as
gasoline had been kept on the premises.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
Winter Styles in Footgear.

THE rough materials have been decided
! on by the fashion makers for the
winter season. This does not mean that
the rough feathers and fabrics will be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20
Millinery Tendencies

TTYIRED ostrich plumes in two
w shades are among the trimming
" novelties.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-11-20

A THE side OF the velour hats
~ many women are putting-noth-
ing!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-03
A Question of Black
-ANy women and all men entertain

-ANy women and all men entertain
MI the fallacious idea that In the
xvx realm, of dress black Is universally
becoming. AS a matter of fact, black u
one of the most trying colors TO wear
successfully. 1t brings out every hafo
line NJ face and shoulders az 1t be de-
collete) and destroys the beauty OF any
usual face. II you select black for your
GOWN. consider the softness and texture
of YOUR skin, and carefully weign tho
possibility OF adding FIVE or ten years
to your age.
BLACK is eminently becoming to some
women when relieved by touch OF Drill
liant color at a place where any strong
contrast will be lessened: broad oand
of sapphire blue or emerald green placed
across the upper part of the corsage, at
the top of the collar or edg1ng the
sleeves, will do much to make this serV-
iceabie color wearable.
A REGULARITY of black is that It has
a tendency to dominate most women
1t Is the woman in the black gown,
which is merely another way Of sug-
costing that the wearer has been placed
in the background. AS a general rule.
black is worn with greater advantage
by tall women, who are able to carry
robe of silk or velvet with the oueenly
air Of which the poets sing.
The Iitian-haired woman with her
n,ilk-white skin looks extremely we'll
in black; the possessor OF blue-black
hair and a skin like old ivory is also
at her best in black; the intense golden
haired woman with vivid coioring can
wear 1t with becoming grace.
For the rest Of womankind it is safer
to eschew this hue. Ordinary hair. COM
plexions that are 'unnoticeable and
shortness Of stature are three elements
that look better in pale colors.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-03
French Fashion Notes

The Indian and cashmere designs are
receiving great exploitation in spring
and summer fabrics.
Collarless gowns! Woe to the scrawny
neck, for Paris has ruthlessly ripped
out all net and tulle guimpes, and
woman must whlten and soften her
throat If she wishes to be presentable.
There is, however, one departure made
in favor of the dress with a guimpe.
The very shallow yoke and collar may
be of gold tissue-an idea that Is not
that we insist upon. 1t remains to be
seen how the Par1sienne will decide be-
tween these alternatives.
Scarfs are draped and shaped into
wraplike form, which insnres the grace
FIJI disposal Of the long folds of net and
lace ELOISE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-04-03
Double Skirts
S A natural outcome Of the

A S A natural outcome Of the tunic
~ idea there comes the double skirt,
4 y pleated and OF soft material. 1t
must under no condition be attempted
in any rough, heavy weaves unless the
tub be your ideal for a silhouette.
Much can be said In favor Of the
double skirt The many bordure ma
terials can be pleated and quickly fash
ioned into round lengths. Embroidery.
IL you are able to use two founces as a
double, skirt. 10 not SO forbidding In its
cost.
In some advance models that come a.
heralds Of the new styles the double
skirt is pleated quite full on the lower
tier, with a scantier pleating OF the
overskirt.
Then. Just as daring attempt. one
French maker sends a delightful black
and-white checked model with three
circular skirts. The idea 10 not over
done BY this clever modiste, but q word
OF warning must be sounded to the
woman who possesses width at the hips.
Fer her the line Of the double skirt
must be lowered.
Yes" one very clever practical
mothe. observed, think how many skirt
possibilities for the growing girls are
contained In one double skirt OF pleated
wolfe or embroidery" Which is but one
more way Of looking at the new fashion.