davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
Waist Measure

certainly very small waists
M are not today necessity In
Af4 beauty culture; indeed. some clas-
sic statues dressed in Partisan modes
might pass muster now; twenty-six
inches is none too big. even twenty
eight inches.
Paris made the law. and every one
followed it joyously. even the stays,
pull as you may. will not give you a
small waist. 1t is even rumored that
F'renchwomen pad the front OF the ng-
ure. TO cause 1t to appear straight IL
is not the waist we have TO reduce, but
the hips; the one desideratum IS TO
keep them 10 the straight line
Catherine de- Medici. when she intro
duced rns bone corset.< made thirtess-
inches the right size for the waist, and
many a woman at court sacrificed her
life TO attain it. There is no necessity
to have long bones to keep in the hips:
coutil or brocade may be cut so as to
confine the dimensions. Digestive or
gans are now left full and easy play:
but we do not want TO get too tubehke.
which seems the special danger OF the
moment.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
COrSetS and
Underwear

" HE newest corsets are lower In the
bust and have more fullness above
u the waist line to improve the ap-
pearance Of full bodices and surplice
and peasant bodices. such as fashion
smiles upon. We no longer need tight
constructing stays. so they are looser
and give plenty or scope TO the waist.
We are flying away from the pouter-
pigeon effect. that had no beauty IN It:
instead. the aim of the good cor
setiere is to produce the long. straight
line from the shoulder to the bust.
Where the figure is very full natu-
rally. the thing is TO fall back on the
brassiere. which is much more COM
Portable than the stiff stay with tea
gowns. lounging gowns and the nks.
The new stays are just as long as ever
below the waist line. but very much
shorter above For evening wear some
are cut neart-shaped. so as to suit the
" form Of many OF the bodices.
Bones on the hips are shorter. the
wearers trusting to strong coutil for
the necessary compression: at all
events. The freedom OF movement Is
greater. Tricot cloth is newer than
elastic webbing. and is admirable for
keeping the hips within bounds.
We are wearing scanty gowns. which
necessitate scanty underwear: In fact.
the aim OF many at this moment IS to
reduce the lingerie worn to a minimum.
Undergarments are often skin tight and
are fitted to the hips with scrupulous
care. Combination garments include
drawers. short petticoats and corset
covers all in one, united below the
waist line. stout figures falling back on
the princess woven Isle thread gar
ments. fitting like gloves. leaving no
crease nor bulginess anywhere.
Vests are made with shoulder straps
that button. so that they can be dis
pensed with when desired. Irish crochet
and flet lace figure on many OF the new
models
Nightgowns grow more and more gos-
samer IN weight, are cut low, with
elbow sleeves. and are trimmed with
pretty ribbons. but these are destined
for the young; older women have them
higher in the neck and OF firmer sub
stance. Bishop sleeves are worn by
older matrons, and surplics effects In
trimming. Empire shapes with bell
sleeves are prevailing mode.
The drawers are cut on the bias over
the hips. thus doing away with any
ful1ness above. but 1t makes them fuller
below the knees. Two materials are
often introduced in the lingerie petit
coats. the upper portion plain and the
lower checked with lines or Inserted.
some Of the founcings being embroid-
cred Hens of colored lawn find place
In much OF the lingerie, and colored
muslins for nightgowns and day under
wear have many followers.
The new petticoats. with eyelet-hols
embroidery, have founces with hardly
any fullness at all. Still. pipings OF
color and bands OF color wear better for
underlinen than lace and embroidery
and are therefore in favor Many ara
having a combination garment that goes
over the corset. with no bands or strings
at the waist; silk or Isle thread tights
under the stays, corset covers and
pantalons are favorite garments. On
the whole. people are relying for
warmth more on furs and overcoats
than underwear in the cold weather.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
Fashion Notes
From Paris
PARIS. Oct. Il

r TITLE bags TO be carried with
suits or gowns are mucn IN
IL vogue. They are now. ordered
At the same time that madame
chooses her gown. and are considered
as necessary as the belt or collar.
For afternoon there are beautiful
shapes in tapestry, moire and satin
combined with heavy dyed laces.
Brocades and bead-trimmed silks are
used for evening.
slippers for evening are Of attract
i've design Ilght-colored suede with
jet buckles are the newest. Five
straps. each ornamented with a tiny
jeweled buckle. are shown in all
fabrics. Chantilly lace over white
satin, Irish crochet over colored silks,
and satin elaborately embroidered
with steel beads are in great de-
mand. A black tulle bow held in place
by a square buckle ornaments a slip
per that needs the touch of black.
For street wear, the light suede top
with patent leather vamp is the cor
rect thing.
The most expensive umbrellas have
tortoise-shell tops.
Aeronette. a beautiful material that
resembles a figured voile. is used for
handsome lingerie blouses.
Chiffon is used for the kmono slip or
upper blouse. Plaid silk is quite notice
able for the contrasting lining. Crepe
de chine is again being adopted by the
best blousemakers Of Paris.
For evening gowns damask, crepe de
chine and two-toned satins and velvets
VIII vie with the metal gauzes and
bead-studded velvets Of Rodier.
Children's frocks are simple and
charming in the introduction of colors
and in the completeness Of the outfits.
for a hat is usually planned to be worn
with a dress that is designed by the
exclusive shops here. A scarf OF the
same material as that of which the
little frock is made is wound about
the mushroom shape and simply knotted
at one side or caught under q rosette
Of gilt cord.
Patent leather belts are worn by chill
dren- Shepherds checks, stripes and
coarse basket weaves are the materials
most favored for the school frocks. An
introduction Of scarlet or royal blue
is made on many OF the neutral back
grounds.
.Ratine-the novelty material Of Rodier,
who supplies the largest houses here
IS being enthusiastically received. It IS
IN many effects, striped and rough
weaves. with many colored threads COM
bined in one pattern. This gives op-
portunity for any ones color preferences
TO be observed, for plain cloth and col
ored braid are used as trimming for the
tailored suits for which-this fabric Is
bought.
In their exclusive establishment on
the Rue Taitbout the Callot Soeurs are
showing a wonderful assortment OF
evening gowns. Satin veiled with bead
ed tulle and Fashioned on empire lines
is their speciality.
Doucet is showing black negligees IN
satin and trimmed with gray lace and
steel beads. His style, you remember.
tends toward the refined rather than
the bizarre
II is not surprising TO see exploita-
tons OF the Louis styles in the palatial
mansion OF the time OF Louis XIV oc-
cupied by the house OF Beer in the
Place vendome. Little short jackets or
coats with dropping supple revers and
large cuffs are shown, while some even
ing gowns are OF pompadour silk with
quaint pointed basQues. ELOISE-
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
Dhtos

WEARS ago when men first began
to wear suits all Of one cloth,
l. they were called dittos. Now we
women are TO wear dittos. Our shoes,
stockings, gloves, petticoats, muffs.
gowns and headgear are to be OF ono
uniform hue, and there Is nothing left
TO the economically inclined but 20
adopt one color, and wear no other, so
that the adjuncts for one dress will do
for another
For the moment mauve is IN vogue,
and a very lovely dress of charmeuse
seen recently was accompanied by one
OF the new tunics Of mousseline- de
sole 10 match, cut short and square in
front and caught up at the side with a
piece Of embroidery repeated at the
hem, the tunic bordered with olive
shaped buttons. the bodice of mousseline
de sole, the guimpe and collar Of ecru
lace. The elbow sleeves H1dened at the
elbow and were trimmed with bugled
fringe.
Those who do not keep TO one scheme
OF coloring might introduce a little
blue on the lower portion of the skirt
Soft. blue crepe. made with kimono
sleeves. admits Of a band OF venetian
lace across the front. the bodice over it
being drawn IN with fullness a Ia Verge.
The long skirt of such a dress dips at
the back, heavy blue embroidery ap-
pearing on the underskirt. Every de-
Gail accompanying this dress is Of the
same lovely hue Of blue, even to the
fan with Its Watteau shepherdesses.
White and pink are combined in many
Of the new evening gowns. the COM
bination carried out in all the details.
and black mousseline de sole figures on
some Of the pink gowns. a foil to ex-
Quisite embroidery.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

TASHION this year has, for won
n der. been equally kind to the tiny
- maiden OF or and to her big
sister of "A or 10 For both. she has
provided hats especially that combine
the two virtues of prettiness and prac-
ticality.
See. for instance, the pretty poke
shape for little miss: really beauti-
full bonnet of dark blue accordion
pleated velvet, lined with satin of the
same shade. 1t has a huge bow at the
back of a lighter colored velvet (not
light enough. however. to be inharmo-
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
Barbaric Dress of Today

DERHAPS the barbaric splendor with
- which we dress today asserts
Il itself most IN the belt. where large
canoes and coral are introduced. Indeed.
coral is very much to the fore just now
in the way of ornaments It is a color.
too, which goes well with black.
Iridescent materials have found their
way even TO tailor-made gowns. and the
mult-colored embroideries which SAVIOR
OF the moyen age are very frequently
introduced, so that they accord in tint
and in style with the ornaments worn.
These barbaric belts are rivals to the
bavarian, sometimes called venetian.
belts. formed Of panne velvet. with deep
points in front and plenty OF boning.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

milan. Irish lace in venise patterns and
real point venise are the other leading
laces.
Sheer hand embroidery nets are being
made up in gown patterns, and for
trimming black chantilly is very much
TO the fore.
Lace tunics are predicted, and also
broad lace collars in sailor shape. Hats
will still be largely lace covered
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
Children s Dresses

A GOOD idea for mothers who like
n to have souvenirs OF their little
4 - ones childhood is to paste in q
book samples from every new dress or
suit. with a picture of the pattern II
possible Not only is this interesting
for both mothers and children in time
to come. but it forms valuable history
OF costume for the period, and Is OF
practical service as well by insurinx
variety in dress from year to year.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

NOUS, and, as daring and successful
touch. is further trimmed with big roses
of brown satin. The combination OF
brown and blue is becoming to blonde
and brunette alike, and achieves the
somber colors of today without being in
the least unchildlike. The hat is made
over wire frame, and the dropping
brim is stiffened as well as the rose
covered crown.
Another little maid will rejoice in the
big hat of black velvet. originally a
poke-bonnet shape, but pinched up to
give relief to the face. The hat is faced
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
Debutantes' Gowns With a Touch Of Black

sole. The yoke and sleeves are Of sill
ver-spangled tulle- Black velvet edges
the skirt and the sleeves and forms the
long. tasseled girdle. II for an older
person. this black edging would be
pretty in black fox fur; velvet. however.
is better for a debutante.
Gold-fgured tuile forms the fourth
and last model. with a V-shaped chem
isette OF allover gold lace. The black
touches are exactly the same as in the
precedin gyown: and the whole frock Is
so simple that it is easily and inexpen-
eively made.
OF course. these touches Of black vel
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

" HE present styles seem made es-
pectally for the debutante. In
their ciinging lines and sweet
simplicity" the empire modes mt
the girlish face and figure to perfection;
and nothing is more charming for
young girl than the light colors. with q
touch Of black at the girdle. the yoke or
the sleeve, that fashion today demands.
The first figure to the left in today's
drawings wears a pale rose chiffon
trimmed with wide silver lace. This
lace Is put on over the white satin lin
ing, and the chiffon is draped over this.
thus showing the tendency toward the
plain skirt The bodice is also draped
over the lace where it joins the girdle,
but the upper part, where the pointed
lace collar is, is unveiled. The touch OF
black is given by the long velvet sash.
with its square bow at the back
In the next model it is the straight,
wide girdle. with It's lace rosette buckle,
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

with white kid-leather OF all sorts is
finding its way into millinery this sea-
son. especially for children-an and the
top of the crown is covered with the
same material. Three big flower ro-
settles Of lace are grouped around tho
back. while the crown Is set of by
thick white silk cord. This hat is really
charming for the baby of the family.
and yet there are ideas in it which may
Also
Turning to these Same older sisters.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

hat of black chenille braid. made to
simulate straw. It>is faced with white
satin. and is trimmed only with two
enormous silk pompons at the side in
two shades of light green. The whole
effect is rather like "a muff in appear
ance, but 1t is chic and extremely at
tractive when worn with the right sort
of face.
BY all of which it may be seen how
kind the modes have been to the younger
generations
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
IaceS

"HE chief feature in the new laces
Will be cream-colored Irish crochet.
Il There is a craze for real laces, but
many of these are shown in very good
imitation, this irish crochet among
them.
italian and French flet. point de
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

press the neck.
The head should be well poised. the
neck full and flexible, the flesh firm.
Those who do not possess all this should
study to acquire it-take plenty of sleep
and fattening food, and study the poise
of the head Grace in this respect can
be acquired. On every opportunity
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23
CollarlesS Frocks

HTOMEN with pretty necks natu-
wv rally like to show them, and
w now they have the opportunity.
Unfortunately, there are many who are
precluded from doing so by the disfig-
urements left behind by high collars
and tight bands, which are most HARM
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

leave the neck exposed.
Every woman thinks she can wear
pearls, and consequently many bad
skins are emphasized by these rows OF
white beads. which, in truth, require
very perfect skin. For evening wear,
baroques of gold beads introduced be-
tween will often save the situation,
or alternating pearl beads and coral.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

we come to the pretty rundown shape
of black. velvet, suitable for girl of
about IA. Like many hats this season,
1t is faced with colored silk. The shade
this time is poppy red, and it Is matched
in the looped satin which is puffed over
the high crown. The loops are caught
in such way as to make each one re-
semble one of the flowers themselves.
This hat would be especially becoming
to a dark-haired and rather pale-skinned
girl.
Finally, there Is the dashing cloche
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

vet can be replaced by satin OF the color
of the gown when styles change. but
just at present they are very much in
no debutante ought to plan her coming
out gown without due consideration OF
the possibilities of the trimming of
black.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-23

that gives the note Of black. The gown
Is Of flesh-colored crepe de chine. with
yoke and sleeves Of allover lace. There
but fur must be used very sparingly on
a frock for a young girl.
The next gown, with its shirred COR
sage Is OF apricot-colored mousseline de
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
A COB OF GREASE.

or three pounds. and much remained
in the carcass and some was thrown
out with Ihr organS.
She Wn> lust ripe for apopleXy and
her few bottle shaped eggs couldn't
hatch.
She WIS y phenomenon for fat. and
there are many others.
But Eddy bu>tles aren't in style on
up to date plants. They'd soon bust,
up" II poultrymHn depending on eggs
for Il living.
Where hens pay they just get enough
to keep them in fair condition. and
have to dig for that.
Where hens pay antediluvian hens
aren't kept TO eat up feed to lay on
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
MALE HELP WANTED.

Wanted able bodied men for the
y. S. Marine Corps, between the ages
of 10 and 80. Must be native born
or have first papers. Monthly pay
SIS to 500. Additional compensation
possible. Food, clothing, quarters
and medical attendance free. After
30 years service can retire with 10
per cent. Of pay and allowances. Ser
vice on board ship and ashore in all
parts OF the world Apply at U. S.
Marine Corps Recruiting Station
Finch Bldg, Heron & II SITS, Aber-
deem. Wash. 94-9t.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
TWO POUNDS OF WASTE

fat for lazy old age instead Of lay
ing eggs for a profit.
Are you in the hustle business?
Have you Il cackling collection Of
relics of bygone days:
Better Oslerize; better make them
exercise.
DO you feed fat former?
Corn is IS per cent fat former and
per cent flesh and egg maker.
Wheat is IS per cent fat and 10 per
cent flesh and egg maker
Oats is 81 per cent for fat and I per
cent for profit.
Buckwheat is 53 per cent for hustle
and per cent meat and eggs.
Arrange these grains with other
things you feed so that the combina-
ton may be just what hens want to
do profit paying stunt.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
pON,-rS.

Don't let feed hoppers be exposed to
the weather The ground feed will
get damp and cake. and the mOldy
stuff will chick lives snuff
Don't prize n stream of water If
ducks paddle in it, hogs wallOw In it
and the harnyard pools empty their
surplus into it. 1t $ II death dealer.
Don't expect to run the hen end of
your farm without good. practical poul-
try literature. If you have borrowed
this paper TO reAG Poultry Notes" pre-
sent the editor with Il fat hen and then
pay for year in advance.
Don't get dazzled by that word sci
entiic. 1t oft covers multitude of
schemes to flimham the people. Word
dust Is not gold dust.
Don't expect much from dried lawn
clippings unless they are mostly clover.
Good hens. good grain and sweet clo-
yer make the egg crock run over.
Don't forget that self respect also Is
q chief asset.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
Bamboo Opais.

Bamboo opus are peculiar gems
which are sometimes found in the
stem OF the bamboo. This gem is very
rare from the tact thar not one in a
thousand bamboo stems contains IT.
These vegetable growths are called
tObacur by the Filipinos. Some of them
are 50 similar-th Is. they exhibit SO
perfectly the characteristics Of the
Opal-that even experts frequently fail
to distinguish them from the real gem
Illustrated.
What does ferneut mean?" asked
the teacher OF the Juvenile class.
1T means to work." answered Fred
dy.
That's right" said the teacher
"Now. Tommy. you may write a sen.
tence on your slate containing the
word"
A few minutes later Tommy handed
I'D the following: Cramps don't like
to fermeut."-Chcago News.
Much Needed.
"There's one thing we need ir this
country. and nobody seems to be doing
ANYTHING to furnish us with it-one
thing that we need more and more as
time goes on. | wish | could invent
or devise it. There will be fortune
in 1t when it is perfected
what is it,"
"Some kind of device whereby peO-
pie may be able to tell just how much
to applaud when they want to make
the entertainer feel good without caus-
ing him or her. rs the case may he. to
mistake thr dononSt"Ati"n for an an
co-e."--Chiraao Record ,I"rHd.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
Fine Destinations.

NO mere man can hope to under
stand the principles which govern
feminine fashions. y man went with
his wife while she bought some dress
goods.
This stuff" he said. lis pretty and
would make YOU good dress"
THAT" said the wife in contempt.
"Nobody is wearing that now
"Then how about this?" asked the
husband. indicating another sort.
''Oh. that wouldn't do at all. Every
body's wearing that."-Ladies' Home
Journal
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
Lived Too Soon,

Robin Hood ana his merry robbers
were wandering through Sherwood
Forest This huldup game is getting
on the blink growled the usually
happy ROBIN
"My sentiments exactly" said Frar
Tuck: "lei : hike to the city aud open II
meat market:''
well larry awhile" said Robin.
after thinking; lit can't be much long
er before the lumber interests will
make us an offer for the forest" ILLUS
trated Sunday Magazine.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
NORTHERN PACIFIC
TRAIN SCHEDULE

Trains Depart
No. 366-For Seattle, Tacoma,
and points East ...... $50 a. m.
No. 324-For Seattle, Tacoma.
and points East .......12:15 p. m.
No. 322-For Seattle. Tacoma,
and Points East-Grays Har-
Dor Limited ........ 6:15 p. m.
No. 5S5-To Moclips 80. S:45 a. m.
No. 365-To Moclips go. 2:55 p. m.
No. 5S0-To Cosmopolis. 300 p. IN.
**Trains 366 and 324 make con-
nection for Portland.
Train SIS and Train $50 Daily
Except Sunday
On Wednesday and Saturday Train
$50 continues through to Ocosta.
Trains Arrive
No. 321-From Seattle, Taco
ma and points East-Grays
Harbor Limited ...... 12:45 p. m.
No. 365-From Seattle, Tacoma
and points East ...... 2:55 p. m.
No. 323-From Seattle, Tacoma,
and points East 80. 1000 p. m.
No. 366-From Moclips. $3.50 a, m.
No. 5S6-From Moclips. .2:30 p. m.
No. 579-From Cosmopolis s 100 a. m.
Train $50 and Train $40 Daily Ex-
cept Sunday.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
Preliminary.

Are you the Lawyer who has Sc
cured divorces fer SO many propie:"
Il have been quite successful. mad
am"
How much does a divorce. ecsr?''
Depends Oh circumstances On what
grounds do you wish divorces"
"Oh. mercy. don't know. Im not
married yet. only enga gesi. but fhinl;
it is woniiu's duty 40 fa,niliarize
herself with every phase of domestic
life. Good morning." - Philadelphia
Ledger
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22

"That's awful medicine mamma got
me from the doctor'' said Freddie.
with Il wry grimace. but she gives
me penny for every spoonful take.
just look IN my savings bank and see
all the money ] have
Gee" exclaimed his little brother
eying the pile of coppers You have
nearly enough TO buy another bottle"
-Lippincott's.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
AS He Did Monev.

Say. Horrouyhs. remarked the busy
merchant, apparently you believe that
time is money"
lis that surcasm?' inquired Dor.
roughs. who realized that his visit had
been rather prolonged.
well. | WAS just thinking that
you're using somebody else's time."-
The Catholic Standard and Times.
Aberdeen herald. [volume] (Aberdeen, Chehalis County, W.T.) 1886-1917, 1910-09-22
The Heai Thinq.

what curious paperwciGht that
is" said Wilbsllsan. looking over the
araphernaIia ON IawkiEs desk.
Looks like tea 0iscuit''
ut is" replieu Hawkins.
"Odd sort OF pludel to choose" said
Wilbraham. How c.erer'iy they imi-
tate these thiisas nowadays. You'd
think that WAS he real thing"
at is the rtai ching" faid Hawkins.
MY daughter rn.fde ii after taking Il
course in cooking at t1asSag. "-Lippin-
colts.