The Birmingham age-herald., 1910-03-16
Ioventiln1.

 premest interest in the beautiful things that make them more beautiful, and yesterday at the formal spring and summer opening at the popular house of Loventhal, there was never hand somer and more complete display of all the pretty things that go towards pleasing fair woman.
 From the Parisienne and Vienese ateliers have been gathered the loveliest creations which the couturiere's brain can conjure, and that means much, since in Paris a dressmaker who has talent is classed with the sculptor, tn he artist. the lawyer and the man of af- fairs.
 In days of old wh en knights were bold they had also the habit of carry ing the purse strings and 1t was then his robes, "his" plumes, This" laces and This" silken hose, and the lady who was "his' wife, unless attached to the court, had to content herself with very meagre adornment. But in the days of the great Louis magnifi- cence grew to such appalling dimen- sions that it was equally shared by women, and the most gorgeous costume of centuries were worn by the women of that day, and since then have be- come the greatest factor in the world s history of women. It is safe to say that the styles this season are more elaborate and splendid than ever be- fore, the beauty of colors and ma terials, with the chanticleer ideas hold IL. ,1nr efxr <- | ing precedence, 1t has behooyed the clever merchant to look to his laurels in the selection of his goods. This Low enthal has done in the most artistic sense, and the exhibition yesterday far surpasses any other that this exclusive and modsh house has shown for many seasons.
 All day throngs of fashionable wo- men crowded the shop in Third ave- nue. and the verdict of opinion was that the gowns, suits, wraps and waists were magnificent!
 Among the scores of creations shown was a chanticleer suit in two pieces, over which all Paris has raved. It IS an original Paquin model, and Is of the loveliest ashes of roses, bengaline, with long, graceful lines in the skirt which is gored in the front and plaited on the sides and in the back. The Russian blouse effect also called the sergeant de villa" is shown in this model In the coat, which gives the bolero effect. Fastened at the waist is d patent leather belt studded with gorgeous buttons depicting the "tete d'aigle russe," or the eagles head of the Russian coat of arms. Folds of the bengaline are shown on the long skirt ed effect of the coat while the bolero is trimmed in the most superb hand embroidered bands in the chanticleer colors The sleeves have this motif carried out in their adornment and at the elbow a band of gorgeous Irish hce is seen. No handSomer gown has ever been displayed here than this Paris creation and 1t is so exclusive in style and so beautiful in workmanship that
 wherever it is worn it will be the sub ject of great admiration.
 A one-piece gown of the chanticleer mode is of heavy black satin duchesse gathered above the hem about six inches into a beautiful band of hand embroidery done on black silk net in the heaviest gold rose pattern. This model is from the atelier of Solovici and II. Sinmoyse and is a marvel of the couturiere's art. The tiny touch of Irish lace about the yoke and sleeves gives the stunning touch which is most becoming, while the corsage and the sleeves are finished in the handsome hand embroidery and from the waist the long tabs of hand ndembroidery are used.
 Another chanticleer model was vic h or Sb bpm win nj dat- tracted much attention. It was in handsome crimson messaline, with deep border of black messaline, outlining the long trailing skirt. Over the skirt was heavy black silk net festooned in the tunic effect, caught here and there in bouffante effect. The corsage was built of the black silk net, heavily hand embroidered in the chanticleer colors and the Dutch neck and three quarter length sleeves finished the charming Paquin creation.
 An evening gown of American make was in blue messaline with the lovely dewdrop silver net in tunic effect over it. The low neck ot the bodice was draped with the dewdrop net and the soft graceful folds at the waist line were held by a broad crushed girdle of the messaline. with large buckle cov- cred with the material.
 A dinner gown of silk tissue in pom padour effect was very stunning, the roses in Bleriot or aeroplane blue, gav- landed throughout the material in grace ful design. The Bleriot velvet was used In the trimming of the corsage, while the sash, with long ends, was gracefully ar ranged at the waist line.
 Shepherds plaids which are so stylish this season, were shown in variety of models, one of the most attractive being Mora Bayes' one-piece suit. The deer, rlaited skirt was partially covered by the graceful tunic, while the waist was draped from white lace yoke, and black satin was used In the finishing touches.
 Another Shepherds plaid was trimmed was gold braid and fastened down the side with large, black satin handmade ornaments. The waist and plaited skirt were joined by a belt of patent leather heavily studded with brilliant jewels.
 The new "peasant blouse" which is the dernier cri of fashion. was shown In navy blue vo.f over handsome mod el in navy blue white polka dotted foulard
 A tussah gown in natural color, with Bulgarian embroidery, was very hand some, the embroidery taking up the col ors of green blue, pink and yellow, with touches of gold, which, with the hand made frogs which fastened the one piece garment, gave a distinctive air t this model, every stitch of which is made by hand.
 The new jumper in surpice style was displayed in a variety of patterns, TO- tic cable among which was one of sheer material in white, bordered in a trailing design of pink roses and a solid rose colored edge. The sleeves are kimona shaped, and the garment Is distinct nov city
 The waists, for dressy occasions, as ell as the more substantial shirtwaists. were shown in madras, cotton vole, lir-