Omaha daily bee., 1910-02-20

and surface was possible the manufac-
turers came to the front with slight modifi-
cations Of familiar pongees and some
genuine novelties. The popularity OF cha
meleon interchangeable two or three
tone colorlngs-is reflected among the shan
lungs as well as In wolfe, silk mOusseline,
chiffon cloth, crepe. %taffeta, etc.
The fancy for basket or hopsackiqg
weaves finds Illustration in a shantudg
dubbed motora matte. There Is a Corean
motora which has an effective irregular
cord. An extremely rough though firm
silk Of this class Is called pongee baroness,
and all the familiar favorltes, such as
tussah royal, arot, tudro, salome, etc. are
offered in the new lines Of color.
Natural tones will, as usual, be con-
sldered particularly good in these pongee
silks. and they always have a cool and soft
appearance, but some of the more voyant
tones make up very smartly. One of the
best looking little costumes Of pongee which
we nave seen so far is a natural tone
French tussor embroidered in red and black
and relieved by a black belt and cravat.
The black patent leather belt and the
belt of colored leather, balloon silk or
velvet combined with patent leather are
evidently to be much in evidence, and the
manufacturers are bringing out extremely
pretty things along this line. The return
Of the normal waistline and the rise of the
Russian fad have combined in bringing
belts and sirdles once more into favor on
frOcks Of many kinds, and the soft draped
girdle of plain or lowered silk, straight
and moderate in width, deep and SHARPLY
pointed or wide and high, plays an impor-
tant role in the color schemes Of many
frocks. Wide girdles of lace or of linen or
cotton embroidery appear upon some of
the summer frocks, and heavily land en-
broldered wide girdles Of the frock ma
terial or trimming are often used.
The princess has not disappeared,
but its vogue has lessened save In lovely
draped arrangements and among the one
piece lingerie frocks to be worn over a
slip. Semi-princess frocks shirred In
several rows ell around the waistline, or
partly around 1t, have come into favor
again, particularly for the youthful con-
tingent, and are pretty, though they call
for a slender figure and must merely be
loosely c%.inging. not tightly fitted.
The coat is the item which is exciting
the most speculation and interest at the
moment, probably because coat and skirt
costumes are the first real necessity of
tho spring outfit and the French makers
are coquetting with numerous innovations
innovations which are after all but a
rovamping Of old familiar things.
For example, there are the roll collar
effects, the coats not fastening in front
and with long collars rolling back on the
fronts. Does any one remember the much
abused blazer of ancient fame? This roll
front coat brings one memories of that
garment. So in a lesses degree does the
Tuxedo. for which several of the most
autocratic French makers-the newly au-
tocratic, but firmly installed Chernit among
them-are standing sponsor.
All our Paris correspondents comment
upon a Chernit coat in black and of man
nish alluEe, with Tuxedo front merging
into cutaway lines oward the back. One
and all, too, these Paris friends throw out
hints Of an eton revival following upon the
heels of the little basque coats which are
being vouched for by several good Paris
houses.
Doubtless the Shortening of the modish
coat points that way and will bring about
the appearance of .eton or modified eton
models, but we are inclined to think that
for this season such radical shortening
will be confined in a great degree to
somewhat dressy models, and the average
tailor made will be Of more moderate
shortness, reaching well below the hips
or even to half length.
or the materials for first tailored cos
The snowflake cloths, soft, loose woven.