Omaha daily bee., 1910-04-03
SHOW MANY YELLED GOWNS
Fashion Makers Play with Colors This
Season.
MARKED CHAMELEON EFFECTS
Color Combinations which cali for
an Artists work ~ Thee Are to
he Successful end Har-
mOuiOus.

There is q marked and artful simplicity
about a majority Of the imported model
ffocks which the best houses are showing.
Aside from lace. which is lavishly used
upon frocks Of certain types, garnitures
are not greatly in evidence and the de
slgners seem inclined to obtain their effects
tn rough originality OF line and subtle
bIerdlng Of color rather than through elab-
Grafton.
Even hand embroidery does not play so
Important a part in design as It has during
the last few seasons. though, OF course,
much Of Il Is used and touches OF It OCCUR
upon almost every model. Two materials
are introduced in most Of the frocks, and
this contrast Of material. together with
self-trimming Of one kind or another, gives
relief to the model not otherwise ornate.
Then. too. the bordure materials, the bro
csdes. the Persian stuffs are in themselves
too beautiful 60 demand or admit Of much
trimming.
Yelling has become a mania, an epidemic.
The frock not yelled wholly or in part by
chiffon. etamine or tulle is the exception,
save In the province OF tub frocks and
severe tailored models, and it is not sur
prislng that the designers have taken up
this idea with enthusiasm, for anything
presenting more delightful possibilities it
would be hard to imagine.
The artist whose color sense is a matter
Of Inspiration finds here his golden oppor-
tunity. and we do not remember a season
when The difference betwixt artist and type
was SO definitely marked by such intangi-
bile. impossible barriers, Colors the novice
would never dream Of associating are
brought together in exquisite harmony, and
the chameleon colorlng SO wonderfully de-
vclped in many materials adds to the possi-
binties and problems in this field.
Critics have complained that the sea-
iua : colors are, on the whole, hard and
unsatisfactory. but 1t Is difficult to see
upon what this criticism Is based, for while
many OF the solid tones lack real beauty,
tie shifting, blending panorama of color
is lovellcr than usual, and it is only for
the unlnspired that the color card does not
spell beauty. Some of the popular tones
are vivid and demand careful handling,
but here he softening possibilities Of veil
ing COM, ~, and even when not yelled
these stli..ng hues are effectively used in
associate with colors less voyant.
The re shrimp tones, the striking
Chantccltr colors, some Of the cerise
shades, the glowing tangerine and pinkish
yelloWs, the dominant emma, royal and
French blues, the more VIVID green's and
some OF the pinkish ldvenders and puppies
are all in themselves signify spectacular.
but they ale all used with most harmoni-
GUS results, while the softer tones, the sea
and natter blues, the willow and linden
greens, the ashes of roses and ashes of
violet, the melting yellows and rose tints,
the beige and champagne tones are all
lovely. and the modish grays and black
and whites tone down the riot of color.
Even the most assertive of colors may
be used in quantity il cIeverly used, and
IL II is in Itself beautiful.
For example, one firm is showing a truly
exquisite model in various glowing hues.
it is Of chiffon over soft satin. The
softly fullcd skirt is almost solidly hand
embroidered in s~elf-tone up to the knees.
Tho bodice is one of the ubiquitous one
piece affairs with body and sleeve cut in
one. flat and plain across front and back.
with he fullness below the bust fulled
into The waist band. The bottoms of the
loose shert sleeves are embroidered and a
band Of the embroidery borders the neck.
which is collarless and cut a little lower
at the sldet than in front and back.
A girdle Is Of the satin and there is a
mere line of cream inside the neck. De-
spite the rich embroidery, the effect is one
OF consummate simplicity. But the color
ing!
one version Is Of changeable chiffon in
the brilliant pinkish yellow tones, 1t is
hardly tangerine. rather a combination Of
a crocus yellow and shrimp pink. resulting
In a glowing hue ndescribably lovely. An
other copy of the same model Is in the
vivid China blue over black, another in a
lovely pinkish lavender over a soft gray
green blue.
To our notion the changeable or cha
meleon effects are at their best in these
soft fabrics and yelled models; but they
are considerably exploited in the heavier
silks, especially In the chiffon t~affetas,
and Paris has accepted enthusiastically the
little street costumes and afternoon cos
tunes Of changesble taffeta which, as a
rule, are decidedly aggressive in color
scheme, even when that same color scheme
has much beauty. Kings blue and yellow
brown, chartreuse green and tan, green
and blue, lavender and blue, gray and
rose and many other combinations are
seen, and almost always a sheer material
In one of the colors or in correspondents
nhangeable color is used with the taffeta
In greater or less quantity.
The yelling may appear In the upper
part Of the bodice on y, or It may be intro
ductd in the upper part Of the skirt as well
as the bodice, Sometimes the sheer veil
tins is not in either Of the colors repre-
senttd in tn silk; as for instance a change
able green and blue etamine is made up
over a foundation Of changeable green and
gold, or a changeable lavender and blue
wells a silvery gray,
Lovely yelled arrangements in black