Wauwatosa news. [volume] (Wauwatosa, Wis.) 1900-1948, 1910-07-01

the minds or those
who rule, that the peasant fashion is
the one that has given the figure q
different outline from what it had
through the directoire, the empire, and
the Moyen-Age periods.
The tubelike figure which has been
so much discussed and called by so
many names is disappearing. One sees
it here and there on women who wear
especially good-looking coat suits, 49,
1t is with this particular kind of Coz
tune that the straight up and down
shape is most desirable
In evening gowns, in simple morning
frocks. and in nearly all the so-called
house gowns that are worn under the
roof in public and private, the newer
and more normal silhouette Is out
lined
Women who are artistic and who
strive for an individual effect have
combined the tube and the peasant
lines into something quite smart and
attractive, writes Anne Rittenhouse. in
the New York Times. 1t might be
said that they have learned when to
wear one and where to wear the 9TH
er. The woman who has the most pro
nounced tubelike figure on the street
In coat and skirt Of linen, rajah, or
thin serge, may be the one who wears
the low bodice, the full skirt and the
deep narrow hem in the house.
The Summer Corset.
One of the dominating reasons for
The new figure that is coming into
fashion is the summer corset. 1t is
quite a good deal lower in the bust
than 1t was last year Its waist is still
long, its hips are narrow, straight and
long, but 1t has far more suppleness
around the upper part of the figure
than the other model. 1t does not con-
fine the bust II is cut low enough to
give something of girdle effect. 1t
is also lower In the back and the eve
ming ones are cut heart shape in or
der to give sway to the Wrecked
frock which is again In fashion, and is
so universally becoming.
The majority of people, especially
the artistic ones. consider this corset
much prettier than anything we have
had. The world in general has be-
come educated away from hips, al
though one must say that in a whis-
per, because the announcement may
be flung In ones teeth in a short while
IL large hips again become the fashion.
1t Is almost impossible to see how
they can be allowed again after we
have witnessed and proved the deci.
ded betterment In the figure by holding
down the hips. The hope is that taste
is really developed in this line and
that hereafter the hour-glass figure
will be In as poor fashion as the large
bust has become.
Change In idea of Beauty.
There was a time-and not so far
distant-when a full bust and large
hips connected by stem of a waist
were considered the height of perfec-
ton in the female form; with all the
evils of the directoire period 1t has to
its credit that 1t educated us away
from such a monstrous silhouette
Once upon time the large abdomen
was not considered a defect even by
women of fashion. Only as far back
as 1890 women made no attempt to
arrange this superfluous flesh into a
straight line by means of long cor
sets. The pictures of the fashionable
women of that day look truly gro
tesque to our trained eyes
Since 1t became the rule and the
custom to keep down the abdominal
curve no one has defined it; and II
may be that the same point of view
will prevail toward large hips and an
exaggeratedly small waist.
The corset OF the summer which has
brought about, or rather goes hand
INLAND with the new silhouette is a
most comfortable affair It's hips are
moderately long, but only the extra
heavy woman need wear the extreme
length.
The waist line is more curved at the
side. but remains straight in front and
back. The bust is not full as it was
in the old models. 1t Is quite slender
and narrow, therefore not increasing
the size of the figure under the arm.
1t is really shaped and fitted to the
curve of the figure as gown should
be.
Gown Defines Figure.
This gives what is commonly called
a girlish figure, and there is no at.
tempt these days to make a gown fun
over the bust or under the arms. 1t
defines the figure. The shape of the
gown itself is very apt to be mislead-
ing as to the lines of the figure be-
meath. 1t is because of this outer cut
that the corset itself is so closely
fitted to the figure, especially under
the arms.
The bodice of most frocks is cut on
peasant lines, which means fulness
below the armholes; not fitness as we
generally mean it, arranged by gath
ers, plaits, or tucks, but fitness that
comes from width gained by straight
line The bodice has this straight
line from arms eye TO waist, or it