davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
Returning Calls.

An important matter to be observed
before a woman leaves town for the sea-
son is to return all social calls. Calling
informal is not necessary, because no
regular interchange is followed. One
woman drops in To see tie other with
frequency and the friendship is an estab-
lished one. But to go away for the sum-
mer without returning all formal calls in
dictates that TIE woman ignored is Of
no special interest 20 the one who so
Sights her and that the acquaintance
shall not progress beyond the bounds al
ready made Even visit in the autumn.
made soon after returning to town. does
not wholly wipe out the attitude of in
difference although when a hostess takes
the time to call almost before the social
season has begun it proves no slight was
intended by her previous omission.
When paying a last call OF the season
in the town i'm which one lives it is not
necessary to put ''P. p. CO on the card.
These letters, indicating ITO take leave"
are reserved for use when in a strange
city: that is, visitors from other cities.
and not residents, use them.
If for any reason, such as Illness, il has
been impossible TO return all calls before
going out of town. notes should be writ
ten to those women to whose houses
one has been unable 10 go. Notes writ
ten on such occasions must convey re-
grets at leaving without seeing the writ
er's friend and must give the precise rea-
sen why the callwas impossible. Under
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
Care of Eyes.

When there is the slightest trouble with
the eyes every effort to protect them
from wind should be made. For eX-
ample. motoring, as many women do now.
without shielding the eyes will not only
cause lines. but will increase the neces-
sity for wearing glasses. Motor glasses
are necessity when in a car, and il e
woman objects to the kind made especial
~ for the purpose she will t.rd great
satisfaction in those made from yellow
glass. having no protecting side. Such
added cover as the cloth shield is only
required in extreme cases.
Yellow glasses. comparatively new,
should be worn more than they are In
the glare OF hot sun. Less conspicuous
than blue smoked. they are CORES
pondingly less unbecomins, indeed. are not
lInsightly. None the less the color is D.
great protection from clinic rays.
Plain, common window glass would be
help to the eyes in severe wind, because
the force OF the wind is broken and the
lids do not contract to save the eyes. A
thick chiffon or erenadine veil is also bet
ter than nothing. and dark blue. brown
or black are tine best colOrs for relief.
\ woman who. when inspecting her
eyes carefully. finds indications of fine
line: at the corners, should massage to
eradicate the wrinkles. Before retiring
at night she should soak her eyeliGs with
ing them carefully should put on cold
cream. The object OF this is to nourish
the tissues and TO relax the strain on
the cords. A slight rotary motion il
massa ging may be given. but the stroking
should, be gentle, using only the finger
less colored glasses are worn when in
the sun.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

stone gray chiffon with chenille EN-
broideries in silver. gray and old pink.
This wrap is weighted by tiny, invisible
leads at the bottom and the hang.ne.
tasseied ends are supplied with weights
also. The wrap is most simply shaped.
with a straight, peasant shoulder and
sleeve in one, the short sleeve being
heightened by means OF folds OF chiffon
set at the edge This is the most elaborate
type of afternoon wrap, worn over an ex-
qusite frock OF embroidered batste and
lace, and the costume is fl every sense
carriage toilet designed for ceremo-
NOUS wear.
More practical cloaks OF pongee and
light mohair, lined with gey-coored fou-
lard silks. are worn over pretty alter
noon frocks. when the spin out to club
house or casino is taken in motor car.
and these very light afternoon wraps
have the peasant shoulder lines and are
often. like the new skirts. gathered at
the knee into a. straight band or hem.
Less Formally in the glove part OF the
costume is now allowable In summer
weather, and the heavy kid glove which
was so irtolerable in its discomfort is
formal occasions. These silk gloves. how
ever, are eXquisitely beautiful and are
made of the finest silk fabric, with en-
broideries in Self-color or Gelicately har-
monizing tints The white gloves with
white embroideries are particularly uainty.
and there are two-tone effects that are
liked with the smart little fouard frocks
for afternoon wear.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
Charming Jab0t.

\ charming jabot struck an un-
usual and therefore q welcome note.
Made of fine white material and edged
with Irish crochet, as nine-tentIls OF the
hardsomer ones are, IL was cut with
deep point as its center, whic! left a bias
or diagonal along it's upper edge.
This was finished with Irish insertion.
and Just here began the tiny hand-run
tucks. folded on the bias of the goods
Each tuck grew shorter than the last
as they approached the point. and each
one fell open at its ends for several
inches. giving a fascinating cascade ap-
pearance TO the whole jabot.
There is a decided return to the plain
tucked and boned stock collar fastening
at the back. They are ever acceptable
to those wearers OF the ruche who seek
its most becoming accompaniment in col
lar form
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

TN many households there is not a
piece OF furniture that is more sorely
neglected than the piano, and any
one who has studied the construction OF
the piano knows that its mechanism is
more delicate, intricate and sensitive than
any other musical instrument It is TO
wonder that it requires q great deal of
care VIXEN this is taken into considera-
ton. and suffers severely from neglect
Some people are of the opinion that they
are treating their piano we'll when they
have il tuned orce or twice each year,
but it should be tuned 10 less than four
tunes annually to prevent loss OF pitch.
and should be kept at a concert pitch all
the time. To raise or lower it half
tone means 10 spoil it Immediately.
1t is almost as important TO place the
plano we'll as to have II tuned. II should
not be put too near the wall, as this alb
serbs the tone. and il should be placed
near the inner wall rather than the outer.
to prevent dampness or cold from affect
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
G90x E6K4GZ #
2M7ZEZZ8RAYIZy

handkerchiefs, gloves and veil: so that
these articles may be clutched up has
tHy-WithOut the necessity of fumblinS
in a bag under the berth-when a hur-
ried trip into the open a if is advisable.
Steamer rugs make handsome bon
voyage gifts. but such remembrance
should be presented to the traveller
some time before the day of departure.
else the rug Will have been provided
and ones Gift will be superfuous. Soft,
rich ard rather dark coIors should be
the choice when buying a steamer rug.
for though the bright colored and
plaided rugs are attractive on ship
board. the owner of such a rug may
like TO use it when the voyage is over,
on couch at home. and then the soft
and subdued coloring viii be much
more desirable.
Books and magazines always make
charming bon voyage gifts, and the
friend who sends dozen new maya
zines and weeklies to the stateroom
stands d better chance of being kindly
remembered than he who makes his
remembrance candy or flowers Books
sent as steamer gifts should be of the
light and entertaining sort which may
be enjoyed in lazy hours and then pass
ed on or cast aside when the grip is
packed for going ashore
For the woman who delights in jot-
ting down things one of the many
"Records of our Voyage" or other brief
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

sick nerves as a more obvious edible
might do.
Comforts for the stateroom really
make the most acceptable gifts; and
such articles should be Of an ineXpen-
sive character, so that they may be
thrown away. il the recipient desires.
at the end of the voyage without any
conscience-smitten pangs. One wom-
an. just returned from a trip to the
other side. declares that of all her bon
voyage rememhrances she treasured
most small pine pillow with red
sateen cover. The bright cover made
it easy always to find the little pillow,
ard the strong. fragrant whiffs of the
pine woods which thus came to her in
her deck chair saved her from yielding
to Seasickness many times.
The steamer bag is a we'll known
bon voyage gift which always brings
comfort to the traveller. These bags
are made Of silk or cretonne and are
designed to hang upon the wall of the
stateroom and hold. in various pockets,
all the toilet articles that would he
apt to slide around on a dressing table
because of the motion of the ship. The
bag should be generous in size and at
the bottom large pockets should be
provided for slippers and deck shoes,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
Bod;ces All Alike But Each Skirt Different Pleat:
Upon Pleats the Grand Chic Movie en- Pounds
of Lead in Some F1ocks-Pretty Wraps.
& F0ZlHT0 En3ZZz2e
W1ZLR lie EHNzNazH6Ie
42GHSz2 E1f72Sx2I15

offered for summer afternoon frocks one
mus. place the foulards. Each season
these charming silks increase III attrac-
tiveness and in popular favor, and TINS
year the patterns are particularly rich
and beautiful. \ new foulard with satin
finish comes in forty-inch width. and be-
low the white dotted or conventional pat
tern is q woven or jacquarded design in
scroll effect which gives great richness to
the fabric.
Bur the Persian fOulards rank first from
a fashionable standpoint. and these Per-
sian patterns are always the most eX-
pensivc on the silk counters also. The
coIOrings are rich and deep, showing an
indescriba bly, soft and artistic blending OF
sUbdued tones. these designs. including
shddings of reds and browns, being per-
hap: the most popular at the moment be-
cause of the fad for red which Chantecler
has drought about. These sOft-toned Per-
star silks are still further subdued by
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
Carved Wood Hat Pins.

TIE very latest notion is hatpin OF
wood on which a carved monogram
stands up in high relief. Button mOlds
in the large fat sizes and with slightly
rounded top are used for the carving, as
the wood of which these molds are made
is hard and does not split readily After
the monogram has been outiiped IN pencil
the wood around it is cut away and fin
ish Of sheliac completes a very attractive
ornament. The pin itself is sunk in hole
bored in the reverse side Of the button. and
o smaller button placed against the larger
one and glued fast steadies the pin in
place.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

such conditions il is expected that the
call shall be made early the following
autumn.
Any mistake in not returning a social
call is SO serious that a woman who
wishes to achieve popularity cannot ar
ford to neglect ti.ose who call. Ard TO
avoid any unpleasa ntness. a calling Est
should be kept. and every time q visit is
made one is received the name should
be checked. This is 4 more systematic
plan than to use cards to freshen the
memory. for visitors offer call without
leaving cards. having forgotten. or used
al of their. This omission does not ex-
cuse q return call. When such an ac-
cilent happens the woman who has called
without leaving pasteboards is at liberty
10 ask her friend, when they meet. IL
she knew that the visit had been ma de-
But tie only sure way az returning an
visits without omission il To keep . resu-
lar ia led list.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
Of Feminine Interest.

directs the exponent of this method.
first making sure that there is a high
mantel shelf CT other shelf SO far above
your head that the uplifted hand can
just touch it. The toothpicks-fifty OF
them-aTe to be thrown on the floor just
in front of the toes. and with one sweep
OF the body Il toothpick is picked up and
placed by stretching OF the arm i'll the
teacup which stands on the high shelf
This motion brings in the bending of the
body at the waist. which reduces the
abdomen, and the twisting of the torso,
which makes the waist supple and
slender and reduces the hips an inch a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

combined with the finest mechlin and
val laceS.
There is fancy also for the polonaise
or knee-length tunic OF chiffon over elab-
orately trimmed lingerie frocks, and this
combination when matched by a dark,
plume-covered hat and handsome para
sol is particularly chic. \ bright Japa-
nese blue tunic over a white u1arquise
lingerie frock formed one OF the most
admired costumes i'm an important OPEN
ing last month. the blue chiffon tunic be-
ing quite simply built with seamless
shoulders and a fastening arranged down
one side of the front There was
folded girdle OF blue satin to match, ana
the black neapolitan hat was trimmed
with two superb ostrich tips in the bright
blue color With this costume was dis
played a blue parasol with Persian
border in black, gray and blue colorlngs
On the other side of the room was
lingerie frock yelled by a red chiffon
polonaise The hat was of chantecier
red straw. trimmed with huge bow OF
black tulle, and the parasol showed
Persian pattern in red, black ana ola
gold markings.
very dainty afternoon costume or
white lingerie material is illustrated.
This is one of the attractive little mar
Uuise frOcks whose style and hnenesS or
material specially appeal to women OF
refined taste. Tie frock shown is or
sheer white batiste, laid in tiny pin tucks
and trimmed with bands of novelty IN
sertion in which eyelet embroidery il
combined with lace motifs. On the bod
ice is a touch OF real Irish crochet and
the bands of embroidery beading are
threaded with black velvet ribbon. Aside
from this touch of black the costume is
entirely white the hat being trimmed
with white flowers and the parasol be-
ing OF white linen with border of SOU
tached net.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

diary volumes Of the sort may be Sc
lected. and these little books may be
had in all sorts OF charming forms.
some daintily bound in leather and
with spaces provided for the insertion
of picture post cards illustrating the
progress Of the trip. Post card albums
are always acceptable. though many
travellers prefer to mount the cards
bought during the journey after the
return home.
When. however. one is sure enough
of ones departing friend to risk the
offering Of something to eat, no gift is
more acceptable than the basket OF
daintily packed fruit. Two such bas-
kets are illustrated and show the at
tractive way in which such baskets
are now put up. Fruit that is not too
sweet should be selected. and the
slightly tart while deliciously favored
mandarin orange is particularly liked
by most travellers. Grapes are also ac-
ceptable and choice dollhouse pears and
peaches are treats that are appreciated.
The baskets illustrated are provided
also with bottled delicacies. and olives
and sailed almonds will make ap-
petizing additions to the feast OF fruit
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
To Care for Pianos.

ing il. Dampness is stanch enemy OF
pianos; Ii rusts the wires, rots the felt.
splits the hammers. and makes the KEYS
stick. A changing temperature is al
most as dangerous. and too great heat,
such as caused b. the proximity of a
radiator or a fireplace. has also its bad
effects. Heavy carpets muffie the sound:
and this is one Of the reasons why music
rooms should always have hardwood
floors. and why pianos Should always he
placed on little glass insuators when
possible.
A piano should be kept free from brio
a-brac. pictures and lamps. because they.
all tend TO make the tone metallic So
often when a note is tinny or tremuious,
il is because 1t is I'm sympathetic yibra-
ton with some object on or near tie
instrument. When the pedals squeak they
should be greaseu, and not oiled, or a
little talcum powder may be pulled into
the hinges. Broken hammers, if not
badly damaged. can be repaired with hot
glue and bound with cord Broken
worries can be Mended with a little house.
hold cement. yellow worries can ps
cleaned with alcohol.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

HE Cere n o NOUS
afternoon costume
in summer tine
may be made OF al
most any material.
from cotton batiste
to silk wolfe ninon:
but whatever the
fabric the costume
must represent, by
it's requirement OF
picture hat, har-
monizins paraSolS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

this silk is raisin-a dull mahogany shade
and the border pattern includes this
color. Pompeian red and a darker shade
Of brown on a cream ground. The hat Of
cream panama is faced with raisin velvet
and the plumes trimming it are in old
pink tones. harmonizing with the mahog-
any and red tones in the Persian silk.
Smartest Of all are the yelled Persian
silks in which the rich patterns show
through filmy tunics of chiffon or the
more substantial chiffon cloth. A blue
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

and irreproachable gloves. carefuly
considered grand toilet. Therefore, il is
not so much the gown itself as the man
ner of its wearing that constitutes 1t
costume of ceremony
First and foremost among the materials
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

Sometimes the bordered foulards and
pongees are made in double skirt Or cru
sader tunic effect. the upper skirt falling
below the knees of the one beneath; but
these crusader tunics are not now as
smart as the '-dragged-in'' skirt, which is
pleated OF gathered at tie knee into a
weighted hounce or a straight band OF
plain material. AS for the apron over
skirt, which came in with a rush early
in the spring. it's day is already on the
wane and only on the ready-made and
homemade costumes does it prevail. IL
the apron style is worn at all the little
knee-length tunic must be heavily weight
ed, for anything that tlutters is extremely
unmodish.
For casino and ladies day club wear
lingerie costumes are always in order,
and on some June days such costumes
are apt to prove more comfortable than
the more formal lined frOcks OF foulard
and wolfe. Lingerie dresses for cere-
monious wear Of this sort are built over
carefully fitted and featherbone slips Of
batiste or thin china silk and, as he s
been said. hat, gloves and parasol are
in exquisite perfection Of harmony.
Creamy batiste is extremely fashionable
just now and many Of the lingerie frockS
seen already at the French races on
warm afternoons have been of this ma
terial. with trimmings OF cream net or
val lace in motifs and insertions, some
times very heavy venice motifs being
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07
One Way to Save the Hardwood
Floor.

One Way to Save the Hardwood
Floor.
TT is no longer necessary to use metal
/ casters on heavy furniture, for casters
OF felt are procurable and are a great
saving on expensive wood floors. The
piano may be moved all about the room
without leaving unsightly grooves ard
streaks behind it if these casters are
used, and another advantage OF the felt
wheels is that they make no noise when
furniture is moved about the rooms.
A Convenient Boutonniere Holder.
0NE OF the annoying things is the way
~ the corsage flower has Of tipping
sideways when thrust into the front Of
the coat or through the buttonhole of a
coat lapel clever little device is an
elongated pin. fastening like a safety
pin, which holds the stems of the bouton-
Mere securely. One side of the pin
hulges out, and in the center OF this arch
there is sharp prong which holds the
stems OF the flowers securely.
Reducing the Hips With Toothpicks.
0NE OF the newest and cleverest flesh
~ reducing methods includes only tooth
picks-and teacup as its apparatus.
Stand close Up TO the wall somewhere
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

and black Persian foulard worn at a
fashionable town wedding last week was
yelled with a knee-length tunic of steel
graz chiffon, the whole tunic being laid
in half-inch tucks from corsage to hem,
and these tucks were confined at the
waist 10y an oriental-loolling belt of dull
silver links with a clasp of lapiS laZul
The only vivid note in this harmony of
subdued blues and metal srays was the
bright marine blue plume which almost
covered the metal gray chip hat.
Though the bodiceS of the summer
frocks are all built on the same plan
the simple little peasant blouse" with
only four seams: one at either side of the
neck, straight out over the shoulder and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

In line with the fancy for transparent
tunics and polonaises is the fad for chif-
fon wraps which reveal all the e,abora-
ton of the dainty froch beneath. Usually
there is some arrangement Of trimming
about the shoulders which affords light
protection for the chill of late afternoon.
but the body of the wrap is of the most
transparent stuff. and is a cloak in name
only. A very beautiful wrap OF this ma
ture is illustrated, the material being
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

instead OIL lOdutI1S my
stateroom with expen-
sive flowers that have to be pitched into
the sea within few hours, send some
thing substantial with which, when i am
lying supine and suffering in my berth. L
may placate an Overworked steWardess
AMI win extra favors?
The strong odor of flowers, and es-
pecially of several different kinds OF
flowers, soon becomes unbearable TO
the traveller who has the least tendency
toward seasickness, and the period OF
remembrance and comfort which the
costly roses. orchids and violets are
hopefully sent to produce is necessa"
rily very brief. On the other hand, the
convential bon voyage gift or frult or
any other edible remembrance should
he selected also with hesitation. There
is always some one thing the unnappy
victim of seasickness can eat, put II is
not at all likely to be the liberal oner
OF dollhouse fruit which onends sight
and olfactory sense before II is even
tasted.
on the advertising pages Of weekly
magazine read by the smart set in New
York is presented what the advertiser
evidently considers chef d'oeuvre in
the way oI Don NOJdsc AohSSo
"a tin hamper filled with u certain
make Of cakes The tin box Is pro-
vided with a paddock ard key and the
whole outfit. including the "delic ious
and appetiz;ng cakes" IL offered from
five to fifteen dollars. What must he
the sensations OF the pale green tra|-
eler who, amid the rnisertes OF the first
morning out. unlooks that tin casket
and is confronted with fifteen dollars
worth of-cake. Then and thea only
would one realize fully the cake
makers idea about the paddock and
key, which would be Immediately car
ried out in hastily double-iocking the
fearful casket and pitching the key
out Of the stateroonl window.
One used to be assured. Upon en-
barking for u sojourn upon the deep.
that lemon was Al sure cure for sea
sickness. The once fashionable lemon
has now given place to preserved
ginger. which really may often be con-
sumed when all else fails--or rather
returns. One of the pretty little blue
and gray ginger jars filled with the
dainty makes q pretty gift Ter the
traveller and will help TO brighten up
the stateroom without offending the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

~ not" demanded one
woman who makes fire.
uuent trips across"
instead Of loading my
stateroom with expen-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-07

Plain satin foulards also come with
Persian borders, and one of these Persian
,ordered fabrics fashioned into a charm
ng summer afternoon gown Is illustrated
III today's page. The ground color Of