Omaha daily bee., 1910-04-03
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MHRHf4f4 buying and the favored few who kindly
U8fk4E4U are permitted 20 Look on. For the last
week aI the world famous cuuturiers
have been holding their morning and afternoon recsp-
lions. for such they might be called, and these have
been attended by thousands OF men and women. who
With impassive countenances have sat through long and
wsarisome hours and carefully considered the pros and
cons OF each and every creation as it made its appear
ance.
These functions are really ceremonious occasions TO
which the general public is not Invited and which. IN
order 70 attend. one must use tact and all the pull which
ne can conscienuously or otherwise exert But attend
them one must II one expects to know what the future
holds out on the subject Of dress- and SO, as usual the
round has been made and the general situation sized
~.
First. as to materials. there evidently are to be guam
titles Of figured goods used in preference to plain. for
even the most conservative establishments are showing
many more or the former than the latter. Flowered
effects. conventional designs. dots. and plaids are all
being made up. and in a great variety OF fabrics. Light
weight silk hrocades. tissues Of different sorts. foulards.
and patterned tussors are all to be seen. and two or
three establishments. like Worth and Beer, are making
q specially Of a certain kind Of silk crepe which is
much patterned over. but IL all self-toned
y y
The eoIors are distinctly more vivid than last season
and there are several new shades in evidence. such a.
1il de roy" tkings eye).a lovely dark shade Of blue:
'tete de nigre'' an odd sort OF chocolate brown; ana
some old, quaint magenta coIors that make fascinating
costumes.
A quite new and different note has been struck in the
yelling OF nearly everything in the line OF dress-frocks.
coats, and hats-with chiffon. fine net. or lace. and this
in many instances tones DOWN the voyant colors Just to
the properly becoming. Ahadss It is astonishing what
one thickness OF chiffon viii do for a gown and what
- "-Nr NAAA@AA6s dWu EdEtA llo II viii give 1t LHla
Is essentially true Of the fQulard gowns, which gem
orally are regarded as costumes OF utility rather than
OF dress. but the ones that are being shown this year
are qulte IN a class by themselves and are among the
prettiest and most desirable that are being offered.
For instance. I saw at Drecoll's one model Of which
me foundation was a toulard, blue and white brokHn
check, OF which the white predominated. and covering
this was heavy blue chinon- Around the bottom OF
mis- outer skirt was an eighteen inch tuck and another
ABOUT hair as deep was half way up. giving the effect OF
an overskirt The bodice was simple. relieved by a lit
tie embroidery done in bright coIors. and the Eimono
sleeves were quite large and drawn in tust below the
elbow with narrow embroidered cunz
worthrs-was also OF dark blue on which was sprinkled,
enormous dots or white The gown was yelled with
blue chiffon and was bordered with a wide shaped
nounee OF liberty satin Of the same shade OF dark blue
The chiffon bodice. over the foulard. was embroidered
in blue and white with a tiny bit OF black and gold to
bring out the other coiorS. To accompany the gown
was the smartest sort Of a little short coat made OF
liberty satin. lined throughout with foulard, and this
was made with loose kimono sleeves and a wide shawl
collar which was embroidered It was intended for
afternoon wear and was a perfect little frock.
These satin or silk coats promise to be used greatly
Tor spring and early summer wear. and they are among
the newest and prettiest offerings to be seen Some
are short. reaching scarcely below the hin line. and are
fastened with one or two large. handsome buttons. the
right side coming well over the left. giving the effect
OF a double breasted garment Others. OF practically
the same general style, come almost to the knees, and
these usually are met by a nouncs or trimming OF satin
or silk. whichever it may be.
All. howeyer-and this is true OF the gowns as we'll
have but one style Of sleeve. and that is the kimonu
Nothing else is TO be seen on the newest models. aud
they are entirely different from any We have been used
to before Some are cut as a part ot a yoke at the top
Of the bodice which extends to the line Of the bust. and
viii show a seam on the under part OF the sleeve and
the waist as well. Others seem to come directly from
the front OF the waist. the fuIlness for the shoulder
starting in the center directly at the bust, and on these
the scanning is down the outer part OF the sleeve and
usually is partly covered with embroidery or braiding
They are almost impossible to describe, but at this
moment the sleeves. more than anything else. mark q
costume as being IN the latest mode or otherwise.
= =
with these EimOuO sleeves the loose, bagxy bodies
has come in. and all the gowns and coats show a Ger
tain amount OF n1llness under the arms as well as II
the back and front The waist line has. in consequences
reached its normal position, neither exaggeratadly shor
nor unduly long, and the fact that strikes one first IL
regard to both coats and bodices Is that they must b
wonderfully comfortable and easy to wear.
The sleeves are wide and loose in the arm size. an,
although the Innings 0f the latter may Mt snugly IT il
not absolutely necessary that they do so. for there "a
no apparent spot that scarcely does more than nan,
on the figure As with all other fashions, these ar
planned with the idea OF the slender woman in view
ant there Is no reason why those built on more reneronr
lines should not adopt these new styles. with certain
modined conditions, and look extraordinarily we'll Il
them.
the loose ntting bodice. the belt has come into its owr
again. and every gown one sees has some sort OF
celnurs that distinctly marks the waist In these. a
we'll as in more important tens the French coururier
have shown their love for the unusual. for with mos
OF the slaborats and drsssy toilets this really smar
leather belt Is being employed Whhe on the simple
gowns are girdIes OF silk or satin with knots and end
ana more or less fancy hnishings.
The hrst are OF patent leather. black. white. or a Lowell
shafe OF bun being the favoritss, although I have see
them In scarlet. apple green. and blue They are ahou
two inches wide and soft and pliable. They all taste
wiea .scme sort OF stunning clasp. usually OF heav
French git and an ornament similar In style occasion
any win be seen in the back some OF these belts, To-
especially those Of black patent leather, ae decorate
with motifs OF gold set far apart
Gowns o. silk, wolfe. or chiffon are drawn Ii aboJ
the waist with these natty leather belts, and I ha'
seen beautiful costumes OF net and lace with while
were worn white patent leather BELTS
Besides yelled fouiards and silks there are son
charming costumes being shown OF what is Gale
~t0us de tuuy,' a thin sort OF cretonne. which CONS
~ lovely brilliant colora- This Is used for the uppl
pnrts OF skirts AMI FOR the trimmings OF the bodioes
cats. and, like the other materials. invariably Is veils
= attn is employed with Il. and for entire costumes tn,
re- both wearable and chic.
I have seen one OF which the toils de 5ouy was
eam white. the flowers being blue, yellow, and m
enta. The SKIRT % this reached nearly 20 the kne
al was covered with taups ehinon- The nouncs. viii