Omaha daily bee., 1910-08-14

in every wrong line of our dress. No there is
help for IT. nature has cast in certain mold and
those are wisest who learn to make the best OF it.
Bantipg systems may aid and diet kitchens in
the weight of others. but both these out
side my province. still any case is far from hope
less and the most discouraged may raise her head
If only she is willing to act like herself and dress
according to her needs,
The ground principle of line" Color
counts for much, material is important. but line Is
essential Given an Instinct or a trained sense for
beauty of lineN and dressmnker evoke grace
in almost figure let her lack this and she
will distort perfection. Mistakes in dress Will con-
tnue just long willing to be puppets
in the hands OF our modstes.
Let start with the large figure and see what
suggestions, in short space be offered her In
the place she should fee for her life from the hob
BILE short skirt Every important line of her costume
should suggest length. The style of her should
be chosen with view to long lines that be
emphasized by trimming This trimming is made
effective in its purpose If IT end at or near
the hem of the skirt in some pronounced fashion.
in braided design in way suitable to the
material used for ornamentation
The reason is simple 10 md; Observe
coming toward you Your natural
ly is focused the face still it takes In
thirds of the figure. If you place any conspicuous
ornament just at the point where the eye to
observe the figure seems to stop there; but If you
emphasize q lower point. unconsciously the eye
realizes that the skirt continues down beyond what
and gives you credit for the length only
suspects Any motif or embroidery on the bodice
IL all striking, should well down the
chest, as this has the effect Of making the neck
longer; but If the figure is notceaby ieveI-
Long lines OF course easily secured in bodice
by means OF vest plastron. but the width of
either is nice consideration. II 1t is too wide
too narrow has the effect OF increasing the breadth
of the chest It is unwise to divide this surface
three equal parts by vest plat that is just
third OF the width across II lighter In color than
the material of the gown. vest stole should be
in width less than third of the chest surface; II
darker, owing to the of braid embroidery II
is advisable to make it little broader than onethrd
of this surface.
Perhaps the essential line for large figure
is one which starts from the middle OF the shoulder
seam and runs slightly dTagonally forward to the
waistne This line may accumulated by BRAID
ing insertion. tucks, velvet ribbons. may sp-
pear as the outer edge OF plastron. but 1t is al
ways effective in diminishing the width Of The cbss,
While directly horizontal lines In material or trim
ming are disastrous TO stout figure oversklrt
with dip in front thus giving diagonal line at
me side often becoming but the point over
skirt should come below the knees
In treating large figure 1t is wise to emphasize
though not TO exaggerate the width of the shoulders
and to have skirt haring the fashion will
allow, In this way the hips are by comparison
diminished In size. and the hips are perhaps the
greatest problem that stout has to con-
slider
1t is sufficient however to choose su,tshi.
lines for gown alone size and shape OF the
hat play an Important part IN the artistic scheme
the costume II the crown is fairly high ana tho
trimming upward In it's tendency result Will be TO
lengthen the face throat which IT, of course de-
slrabe. As a rule brims that surmount large TO-
should be carefully considered The height OF your
hat crown is determined by the length of your neck
and viii best suit If 1t gives height from the
lated by the width of your shoulders and has
tion In lessening the width between them
The difficulties OF the slender. even the unduly
slender. figures comparatively simple Personally
] do not believe in making great effort to lessen
in effect ones height by style OF dressing tan
roman even though she be thin. attractive IL
only she be graceful l would rather spend my
mind and strength In acquiring good carriage ana
supple movements than In racking my brains for
means TO disguise nve feet eight nine Inches
To the stout final word: Be quiet In your dress
inconspieuous In color Make lines do their perfect
work and do It gracefully; be comfortable. but above
all loo.