davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

we'll worth the trouble. II this color sus-
gestion does not appeal, why not use
cream lace over supple white straw ana
face the shape with black?
Rose crowns are in general use. but
the hint from the French capital is in
the rose of black satin nesting among
the brilliant colors and echoing the note
of contrast that is sounded In the Oanu
of black rye straw as a facing rake
heed Of that last hint, madame. for 1t
is quite new. .
Gray. and black sheer mousseline is
shown in the sketch at the right. Two
bands of black satin are used here, the
upper on. being about one-half as wide
as the hem. With this quaint pelerine
Of black satin is worn and bag that
is old enough in style to be new hangs
on the arm. The hat has its under sur
face faced with black and the brim is
turned sharply up under the mass OF
flowers. Two tones Of blue are COM
bined with black in the parasol.
Opportunities for the use Of black are
legion. Pipings. buttons. braid and silk
floss to accentuate a design can be USED
with effect. Velvet and satin by the
yard hold first place, and with the APP
proval of Paris are sent across to our
American sister with the promise that
they give emphatic charm and dlstinc-
ton to ne costume.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

two colors in one costume oiach no'N'
together the shades with wonderful re-
suits. AS an introduction to modify any
intensity Of tone or luster black mas ~
equal, while the touch of contras. So
completely recognized by tne naal
rnodistes needs no further recommends
ton after a little study Of the sketch
At the left. there is exploited black on
hat, gown and in the scarf, some.nan ns
,vith huge bow of changeable RIBBON
to match the colored portion OF the SIX
frock. has a contrasting band OF blaSK
satin. You will notice that the hihois
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19
Foulards as a Fashion Note

affair with a transparent covering of
plain chiffon or marquisette. and the
choicest frock OF the season is, in addition
TO this diaphanous covering, made or
plain silk in combination with the figured
Speaking of figures. the tiniest spots
are usually the most charming. and those
Of larger figured design are conspicuous
by their absence or else are used only to
carry out a bordure idea on some incon-
spicuous surface.
The sewing of foulard is, In itself, an
art Too much machine stitching Will
ruin the cheapest or the choicest piece
Of foulard. Handwork from collar to
hem is put upon the better costumes. and
when machine stitching is used at all, the
best efforts of a careful amateur or a
conscientious dressmaker are required to
keep the stitching down to single row
with the loosest of tensions.
Skirt hens really should be put In by
hand, and when the pressing stage is
reached the iron should be carefully with
held for fear of too great pressure and a
consequent shine on the expensive sur
face. Foulard is not an easy material
to work with owing to its softness. and
like many another delicate fabric its de-
sign should be chosen with the idea Of a
none too close fit and a certainty OF some
gathers.
Even the seasons bathing suits are
touched with trimmings of figured fouiard
or at least ties beneath their sailor col
lars.
Parasols and stockings match the
gown, whether the shoes do or not.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19
PIumed Hats.

THE graceful sweep OF plumes has al
/ ways been recognized as highly val
liable from a decorative point OF view,
and notwithstanding the ribbon or the
flower season which IL upon us. there is
always opportunity to place the plume
on the more ornate hat with usually sue
cessful results.
Where shall the feathers be placed ?
1t depends largely upon the size and
shape Of the plumes If short they can
be massed at the side toward the back,
falling away from each other in graceful
curves.
If one long plume be your lot, it can
be used in simple band around the low
crown Of a nat shape, or If the hat be
Of the high-crowned cavalier type, it can
encircle the crown and follow the edge
of the upturned brim.
Another adjustment is attractive when
plumes are massed under the brim of a
comparatively simple shape. :.
Shaded plumes or the speckaed effects
are favored in Paris; but, after all, the
elegance, durability and becomingness Of
black feathers are undeniable, and over
here will be most generally adopted.
Ribbons of every variety. seemingly.
are called upon to contribute to the
seasons fashions. Especially popular
are the warp prints for girdles and
sashes at the present time, and there
IL still a later trend in the use OF plain
and velvet ribbons for the same pur-
pose.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

leaders, with heavy net continuing in high
favor. The best scrim is very handsome
and hemstitched; fagotted or braided ef-
fects are attractive IL used in moderation.
These scrim curtains are to be had in
both sash and full-length patterns.
Summer rugs are mainly Of I'VE old
tyne STYLES, especially for the porches
of colonial homes and for rooms furnished
more or less in this fashion. They may
be had I'm white and one color. such as
soft rose. green or blue, and very pleas
ing items they are in the ever-interesting
scheme of homefurnishing. There Is a
great deal of variety in these summer
rugs, and they have all sorts Of price
tags.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

GUNNER furnishings are now the or
der of the day, and it Is delightful
~ to replace the heavy hangings of
the winter months with light, gauzy
weights. The upholstered chairs are COW
cred with cool linen or cretonne. and the
willow furniture looks very inviting. Will
low furniture is ideal for porches as well
as for rooms, and it comes in all varie-
ties.
The nursery is also we'll catered to.
Cane furniture is attractive, with oak
frames stained slightly green. AS for
curtains, scrim and swiss seem to be the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

bodices. and are worn with black
patent leather belts and 1n@misettes of
Irish lace
Plain linen. with tiny yoke OK irish
lace with a sub-yoke of padded coin
spots worked in a darker shade of the
color Of the linen. is used by one maker
Hats of the same material the dress
are worn with these pretty little styles.
The 'cloche" shape Is. perhaps, the
most favored fitting snugly down over
the head. yet with the ample. comfort
able crown of the peach basket. Cord.
tasseIs or stiff punches of roses are
used for the trimming. The becoming
ness of these models is undeniable.
Belts are used with morning and
afternoon costumes The patent leather
belts are most worn. but need not he
OF the straight form that at first might
be suggested They are varied by rings
unique buckles and buttons. For the
sFterpcon gowns of moire or Silk the
soft leather is used. Suede or ehamois
is in great demand. sometimes being
combined with silk in scrolls stripes
and studded over with crystal, opaque
or wooden beads.
Black satin suits or silk suits in the
new fuchsia shade are the suits for the
summer. The Jackets are very short.
some of them with straight pSplums.
which are attached2quit high on the
few intrepid ones over here are pre-
dieting a return of the high waist line.
All white will be fashionable for
midsummer wear. Hats with the upper
surface of white and lining of color
are shown by some advanced milliners
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

glory ~ it's sheen and simmer TOT INV
So nopu,ar is the foulard idea tna'
figures have spread out upon many o'h.,
silk surfaces and have gone over on "
cotton grounds and even broueh! ABOUT
i. revival of soft challis as a SUBSTITUTE
for the heavier woolens.
This years cotton foulard mas oeen
known heretofore as sateen. except tna'
the present material is softer' oain'ier
stuff more nearly resembling 1ouiard IT.
self The bordure peculiar to foulard APP
r..rs on many other fabrics. noticeably
On cballis and on cotton batistes and silk
muslfns.
without the least stretch OF the lmagi-
nation II may be stated that foulard IT.
self in it's best silk quality and its most
Characteristic spots. has usurped the place
occupied by nearly all the summery ma
teriais we have previously depended on.
Its prominence as a parasol and hat
covering is established. Its use as a coat
lining Is unique. 1t serves as piping,
fold and bias band OF plain materials
and as coat lapels on silk, cloth and linen
coats.
The foulard frock at its best is . veiled
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19
Fido's Bow Matches Madame's Hat.

F1d0 BOW MATCHES MadHme 0dC
A LII the smart little black Pomera-
n mans that are seen out driving In
the bois these bright spring days nave
neckbows of cerise or did blue or tilleul
ribbon, precisely an the shade OF miladf s
hat. Indeed, the very selfsame ribbon Is
sometimes used. bit being coaxed from
the milliner for this purpose, or miladis
maid being at some pains to procure ex-
actly the right shade in the shops. The
graceful Pomeranians are very attrac-
tive thus bedecked, and there is some
thing lOvable and appealing about
these sad-faced little beasties that one
does not wonder at their popularity rs
lap dogs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19
Of Feminine Interest.

Bedroom.

Bedroom.
THE summer hostess considers care
fully the question OF the breakfast
tray: for there are many guests whose
custom ii is to partake Of this meal in
bed. or at least in their own rooms. in
the ease of dressing gown and informal
couture, and a dainty means Of serving
this bedroom breakfast must be provided
beforehand. In a large country house
two footment are usually kept busy from
o'clock until 10 o'clock in the morning.
carrying breakfast trays about, and spe-
cial china Is usually supplied for these
trays-rather small cups and dainty
cream. sugar and coffee receptacies In in.
dividual size.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

y Paris it is one
touch Of black that
makes the whole
fashionable world
kin. and the note
Is SO important in
the achievement of
an artistic effect
that it is q decree
" hic h American
women will use to
their profit. In the
combinations o I
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

EIrII~FLEDGED season OF lou
lard is upon us. Paris promised
II last summer. and she gave us
a glimpse Of Its spotted SOIL.
ness and then reserved the fuil
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS. June O. 1910.
Tor little girls some serviceable
dresses of black and white check
are shown. They are made with
u long waists and round collarless
bodices, and are worn with black
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

Black gloves for the street have wide
white bands OF stitching; others are
stitched with the color, even the seams
being eewed with the color.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

Parasos and stockings match the
gown, whether the shoes do Or not.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

Very practical are the one-piece sailor
suits made Of the black and white
checked linens. Emblems embroidered IN
red are on the sleeves and shield.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-19

A great many detachable frills and
pleats are in vogue so that white waists
NAV be worn with different colored skirts
and harmonize with them all.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
AUSTRALIAN COM MMERCE
SHOWS IMPROVEMENT
Trade Conditions Very Pros
porous During 1909

Trade conditions In Australia for the
calendar year 1909 were prosperous.
and in practically every respect the
business and industries of the country
showed Improvement as compared with
the previous year.
The imports during 1909 were valued
at s24S,760,S50, consisting of S4.961I72
gold and S243.799,6TS merchandise as
against s2s2.2s5,01S imports during
1908, consisting Of s4.736.6o2 gold and
1927, ,54S.416 merchandise. The exports
during 1909 were valued at s317, $40. $50,
consisting of s43.555,4 423 gold and s274.-
414,937 merchandise. In 1908 the ex-
ports were valued at 1912, ,e6e,763. but
the. total included gold valued at s6e,-
746 965 Excluding this item the value
of the general exports In 1909 exceed :
ed that OF those for 1908 by S31,192,l3e.
The showing OF exports would have
been still more favorable except that
for the last two months Of the year
the trade OF the country was greatly
hampered by the strike of the coal
miners of New South Wales. This strike
not only caused a cessation OF exports
Of coal for the time being (coal being
one Of the most valuable exports of
Australia), but II also interfered with
the shipping to such an extent as TO
prevent or delay exports OF other staple
commodities Of the country.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
College Marksmen Enter
Round Robin League

NEW YORK, Dec. 15.-Announce-
ment was made today that 12-of the SS
colleges and universities having clubs
in the National Rife association have
entered teams in the Round Robin league
for the winter. The contests will be-
gin the week ending January Z and
there will be one match each week un-
til each team has fred one match
against every other team I'm the league.
The teams will consist of 10 students
and each man will fire 10 shots stand
ing and 10 shots prone in so foot gall
lery range with % caliber rifles. The
war department will issue decorations
to those students who qualify as marks
men. sharpshooters or experts through
the associa ton.
The competing schools are:
Columbia university of New York City: Cor
nell of Ithaca. n. y; Dartmouth of Hanover,
n. H.; Missouri state university OF Columbia,
Mo-, New Hampshire agricultural Of Durham,
\. H.; North Georgia agricultural Dahioue.
Ca; Purdue university of Lafayette, Ind.
Rhode Island state college of Kingston R. l.:
state university of Iowa. Iowa City. Ia; Uni
versity of California. Berkeley. Cal; University
of Minnesota Of Minneapolis and the Washing
ton state college of Pullman
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
KISSING CASE IS
HEARD BY BOARD
Police Commissioners VIII Give
Decision in Officers Charges
Next Week

Charges Of unoficerlike conduct
against Policemen John May and Miles
Jackson. instituted by Fred W. Peter
son and Ralph J. Faneuf We're heard
by the police commissioners last hight.
Fsneuf and Peterson were arrested on
October % while they were kissing
their wives at Kearny and Market
streets.
Faneuf, who is an employe of the
postoffioe department in Oakland, COM
plained to the commissioners that on
account of his arrest his conduct is
being investigated by the federal In
spectors and that he might lose his
position. During the hearing IL devel-
oped Faneuf had endeavored TO obtain
from the arresting officers a written ad-
mission that he and Peterson were not
intoxicated. This, he stated. might
save his position.
May and Jackson said Fsneuf and
Peterson, besides kissing their wives
which attracted a large crowd, had
danced the turkey trOt and burning
hug" along the sidewalk.
The commissioners took the case un-
der advisement for one week.
The investigation conducted by the
police commission into the death OF
William Y. Henrico. the Holland hotel
clerk who received a fatal blow on tl1e
head from Murry Bennett an enter
tainer at the Mirror saloon, was post
poned until next week.
The case against Dibbie Brothers for
viola ting the ! o'clock music ordinance
In their beach resort was continued
one week
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
Here's a Chance for
Amateur Boxers

All real amateur boxers who can
procure cards from the Pacific amateur
association are wanted at the gym
nasium OF the Irish American club. IN
Mission street near Twentieth, this
evening. The board of directors of the
club is ready to secure its card Of six
bouts and is anxious TO get the best
talent obtainable
These contests VIII be held on the
evening OF December 2s. probably at
the gymnasium Of the club, which has
already been granted a sanction by the
p. A A. The contests VIII be strictly
amateur ones Of three rounds duration.
but in the event Of a draw the referee
viii have the privilege Of calling for
an extra round.
Il is the intention of the promoters
10 stage bouts in all the classes. from
the bantam UP TO the heavy weight.
The usual trophies of the anateur as
sociation will be awarded to the win
ners in each class. II Is expected that
the entry list will be heavy. so the
club officials have decided to give ALI
the likely applicants a try out this
evening.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
First Academic Class
Wins Gym Meet
TspeoioI DnpotoA to The CALI


OAKLAND, Dec, 15.-The first acad-
emic class carried of the honors in the
elementary gymnasium and apparatus
contest held last night IN ST. Mary's
college gymnasium and was awarded
the championship banner of the first
division. while the Junior division was
won by the second commercial team.
The race for the first division was
very close and only two points sep
srsted the winners from the second
academic team, the first year men
securing 81. while the others were
ished a close third with 81, and the
first commercial last with n.
The second commercial team won
with five points TO spare over the third
academic, scoring 79 to "a. The fourth
academic team suffered from an attack
OF stage fright and did not complete
the work.
The judges OF the contest were ". ].
Prendergast Of the Olympic club; Peter
Mccormick. a graduate Of the college,
and L A Wolf, mana ger of Spalding's.
They awarded points for the following:
Lineup II, marching drill 20. setting up
work 20, marching back into line 10,
neatness 10, apparatus 20, dismissal g..
Previous 70 the gymnasium work
tests for the first swimming certificate
were held and the honors in this went
10 Howard Magee, who made the fast
est time Of the evening. The second
test win be held Immediately after the
new term begins.
The others who successfully passed
were Cecil Fabing, Frank Latulipe,
Donald Penderville. George Callahan,
Frank Porter, Charles Weber, Leo Nc
Clatchy and Manuel Gochuico.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
Injured Rugby Player
To Get Tidy Sum
ISpseial Dispatch 10 The Call

STANFORD UNIVERSITY, Dec. l5.-
The finances Of the championship game
which was played last Saturday be-
tween the Coyote and Breaker clubs
turned out very successfully and o. A.
Gragg, the injured jlayer for whose
benefit the game was played, viii have
the sum Of S104 with which to defray
his hospital expenses.
Gragg suffered one Of the worst in
5uries which has ever happened in the
game. having his leg shattered in two
places. and will probably be lame for
life from the injury. This happened
in the preliminary game between teams
3 and several weeks before the con-
clusion Of the series. He is still con-
fined TO the hospital and will probably
not be seen on the campus before next
semester.
F. Multaner -. another man who was
injured in a soccer game. viii probably
be given benefit match in the near fu-
ture also. II. w. Maloney, who has been
directing soccer here, has received a
communication from s. Goodman, sec
retsry OF the California football asso-
citation. in which aid is proffered to as
sist the injured player to defrsy his
hospital expenses by means Of a benefit
game. II is probable that this offer viii
be accepted by the local aggrega ton.
and in this event a match game viii be
arranged between the leaders of the
soccer league.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
Stanage Says Rows Were
Bane Of Detroit
ISpeeial Dispotch 10 The Call

STOCKTON. Dec. 15.-Oscar (Spin)
Stanage, star backstop of the Detroit
American league team, arrived in
Stockton this morning from Cuba and
spent the day meeting his old school
chums and baseball cronies.
stanage is the picture OF health.
I've had a very healthy season." he
said. having done so well could
demand an increase in salary
He played with a bunch of Detroit
Tigers in Cuba. I'VE played series
Of u games said Stanage, and had
to go some to win eight out of the
dozen. Ben Harrison is down there
playing with the niggers."
Stanage said that Detroit did not
have chance this year and that dis
sension was rife in the team. Cobb,
he added, wasn't on speaking terms
with half the players and many game
was played when the members of the
team had nothing to say to one an
other.
Stanage VIII remain In this city the
remainder of the week and will return
to Alameda. where his parents live, for
the holidays.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
INSURANCE COMPANIES
SUFFER HEAVY LOSSES

Vice Consul General Lucien Mem
minger writes from Beirut, Syria that
the fire Insurance companies in Turkey
have suffered large losses recently on
account OF a series Of confiagrations In
each of several leading cities The
origin OF these fires has not been de-
termined. It is also stated that numer-
ous new and small fire insurance COM,
panies Of doubtful responsibility. hut
advertising heavy nominal capitRliza-
tiohs. have been diverting patronage
from the standard companies bv offer
ing remarkably low rates.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
FOREIGN IMPORTATIONS
SHOW BIG INCREASE
Goods Worth $60,Oo7.o53 En-
tered Duty Free in August

The foreign goods imported into the
United States during August aggre-
gated S69 .O67 ,953 free of duty and $780,
2s9,s27 dutiable. The total of $138,-
S57.7S0 is extremely high compared
with S117. .094, $50 in August, 1909, and
$91,1S3,536 in August 1908 The inn
ports were greater than the exports
both in August 1909 and 1910 This
debit balance showing in the country's
foreign trade, in contrast to the long
record of credit balances, is still more
evident in the statistics for the first
eight months of 1910 compared with
previous years. The excess of exports
for the first eight months of 1908 was
1891, 1853. $50; for the same period in 1909
S59,4S2.2S9, while the excess of imports
over exports in 1910 UP to September /
amounted TO 1913, $50.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
MISS STOKES BRINGS $4,000
Special Dispdtch TO The CoU1

CHICAGO, Dec. 15.-One of the big
gest sales in horsehesh during the
winter season was consummated to-
day, when Ed Willis, superintendent;
Of the Patchen Wilkes stock farm
Lexington. KY, disposed of Miss Stokes
year old, record 2:O9A and holder OF
the worlds record of 2:19A for year
ling trotters, for $4,000 The sale was
effected through Lon Mcdonald. and II
is understood that David NJ Luke, a
merchant of New York, is the pur-
chaser. The mare viii be shipped to
Memphis with the rest of the Mcdonald
string and prepared for her stake en-
gagements.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
DR.. Roller Put to Mat
By Americus

BALTIMORE, Dec. 15.-Gus Schoen-
lein (Americus) tonight defeated DIR.
p. r. Roller OF Seattle, Wash. in an
exciting wrestling match. winning the
second and third falls. Dr. Roller took
the first fall in Il minutes. throwing
Americus IN such q manner as momen-
tarily TO stun him. Schoenlein won the
second fall in minutes. and the third
IN IS minutes. the former by a half
Nelson and leg lock, and the latter
BY a neck and body hold.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16
LOST AND FOUND

LOST-A passbook with the Hibernia Savings
and Loan Society of San Francisco, In the
name of ISAAC WILLIAMS, No. 3S2-672. The
finder will please return TO bank Unless same
is returned within days new book will be
issued to the applicant.
LoST-A passbook with the Hibernia Savings
and Loan Society of San Francisco in the
name of PATRICK HUSSEY, No. 233-004 The
finder will please return TO bank. Unless
same is returned within days a new book
will be Issued to the applicant.
PARTY VINO found purse Dec. on ferry boat
may keep money if jewelry is returned to
1859 Buchanan ST., apt. 2. JESSIE KNOWI-
TON Reward. No questions asked.
F0UND--Siiver Iorgnette silver chain attached
Finder have same by applying at Call
lost and found bureau.
s. reward for reinrn Of 125 collectors
account bills to 2552 Mission st,
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-16

FLATS. RESIDENCES, LOFTS
AND OFFICES TO LET
OR LEASE
]
J. W. WRIGHT & CO..
22s MONTGOMERY ST.. MILLS BLDG.
PHONES:
DOUGLAS 44s0. C162s.
REAL ESTATE AND INSURANCE.
AUCTIONEERS.
RENTS COLLECTED.
FULL CHARGE TAKEN OF PROPERTY.
THIS LIST REVISED DAILY