East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-10-07

row shoulders, which in connection
with the clinging straight narrow
skirt line makes hips decided embar-
rassment. One must do away with
any amplitude Of hip in order to look
at all we'll in the modish frock. and
If this can not be accomplished or
one is unwilling to make the sacri-
flee necessary to its accomplishment
then by all means let the skirt take
on a suggestion of the bell line-a
line quite admissible in moderation
this season. One sees a good deal of
the yoke or upper bodice and sleeves
cut together, though the yoke is sell
dom very deep. In many respects it
is also of contrasting material. One
of the new frocks from Paris is in
figured silk with the upper yoke and
sleeves Of chiffon, artistically chirred
from the shoulder right down the CEN
ter Of the arm to the elbows, where
the sleeves end with a jaunty little
cuff of antique linen. The long line
of trimming down shoulder and out
side of sleeve is often repeated. too,
in buttons, in bands and lace, chiffon
and other material, and nine out of ten
bodices are cut without shoulder
seams, or at least without visible ones
The deep color will be a great friend
to the women who cannot afford a
new gown just now, yet who wishes
to disguise the shoulder seam in a
bodice, separate or part of cos
tune? These little accessories Of
dress are made to supply the long
shoulder line and hide shoulder
seam, If there is one. The sailor COL
or, consequently, has been lifted from
the place in outing garb to which it
has usually been relegated and intro
duced upon the smartest and most
elegant of afternoon frocks. Some-
times in separate blouse It is lost in
clever drapery arrangement which
looks part fishu, part vest and part
yoke. 1t is usually made rather un-
obtrusive in the front, favorite idea
being to run it out in a straight line
across the shoulders giving the effect
of shoulder yoke, while in the back
it has the true sailor collar square
ness.
The corded silks are making a bid
for favor in connection with handsome
street suits. the fine cord apparently
finding more favor than the Ottoman,
although one sees the latter here and
there. The beautiful moire beloved of
some of the most famous dressmakers
of Paris, and other soft maires are
used also for the coat and frock cos
tunes or for coats and suits with
frocks Of sheer fabrics. The new taft
feta has its advocates but for some
20 ba
accepted enthusiastically as cold
weather silk, and satin still holds its
place as the favorite silk for street
wear.
Curious combinations are 10 be seen
| in some of the bordure materials. One
! handsome line Of these fabrics is in
| lustrous, supple silk and wool mixtur-
es of plain color, with a wool border
| in cashmere or other Oriental design
and coloring. One sees soft, rough
boucle border on plain cloths and
| bands of rich cashmere design on
fine woolens such as cashmere. These
soft fine woolens in cashmere resign
and color are sometimes used sparing-
| ly for trimming, even upon black sat-
in or velvet, and even upon such
eclectic frocks as the white serges
| they are used to introduce artistic
color schemes.
The craze for dull toned metallic
laces and nets finds expression in a
large proportion Of fancy and vanity
bags, used so extensively by we'll
dressed women, and exquisite gold
and silver brocades or brocades shot
with silver and gold are much used.
Some remarkably pretty and elegant
bags which are simple of construc-
ton owe their smartness and beauty
largely TO their shape and trimming