New-York tribune., 1910-06-19
IHE 1EEAD V\vzIAIFER AS A SOCIAL ARBIT]ER

the new Elite Hesdwaiters' Association =
small reference book The front page tags
the servitor as il by the BertilIon system
There is his photograph. with hts signature
written below: there also are put down bis
height. weight color OF eyes and distin-
gushing marks. Follows a record. signed
by each maitre dh6teI OF the mans entry
into a hOteI's service. the date OF his de-
parture and the reasons therefor. The
efficient waiter merely presents this refer
ence book to get a job; the maitre d'hotel
retains IL and hands IL back 20 him at the
end If his services have proved satisfac-
tory.
Many are called. say the headwa.ters con-
cerning this plan. but few are chosen. OF
the two hundred walters IN one Of the
bigger places. not more than dozen or
two are adjudged worthy Of this references
passport. and 20 hold it is equivalent to tho
Gordon bleu of waiterdOm.
The maitres d'h0tel are as proud OF their
new organization as a boy of his first pair
of long trousers They hold their work in
esteem. and they want 70 better their
knowledge of every branch OF IL AS one
of them said the other day: We must
know as much about provisions as the
steward: about cuisine as the chef: about
liquors as the head barkeeper. and even
more about the stock than the purchasing
agent for we have complete charge Of IL
from the minute IL enters the house. keep
the records, and make the inventories OF
the napery, silver and other table gear at
least once a week. sometimes oftener- We
are responsible for everything IN the dining
room and yet are subordinates. our position
being that of the selling agents OF the firm
Vas No he1dUairaT iS a curious animal
said the member refectvely. waggtng his
head in a manner reminiscent Of Sam We'll
Ier's father when he descanted on the gentle
art of driving public coach
THE real function OF the head waiter"
said Jacques Bustanoby. one OF tho pro-
prietors OF the Chateau des Beaux Arts.
'fs to order the dinner. A boy-an usher
as in a theatre. for exanple-could seat
the guests having a chart OF the tables
reserved to go by. But the rnaitre dhotei
is the adviser Of the guests II is his
to see that expensive dishes are not foisted
on the patron IL he desires only a little.
inexpensive dinner. 1t Is his to discover
the kinds of food the guest is fond Of. and
TO suggest novel. appetizng ways Of pre-
pairing them He IS an infalHole guide
about wines, and he serves the choicer vtnt-
ages with his own hands. AS he gets to
know his patrons peculiartties he frequert-
" orders the entire dinner for the latter,
relieving him OF the bother OF choosing
foods and courses He watches everything,
sees everything. and the reward he receives
If the guest is satisfied and happy Is mere
Iy his due"
Himself a Frenchman from the Midi. NJ
Bustanoby says the most efficient maftres
d'n6tel are of French extraction. But Swiss,
Germans, Italians and Scandinavians have
also won fame in that vocation hereaoouts,
and of late there has been notable invasion
OF Greeks into the ranks OF waiterdonn- The
best head waiter. according to the restau-
rant keeper just quoted. IS the one you
have trained yourself First as omnibus.
then as sub-waiter. then as CAPTAIN or as
sistant head waiter, he has learned all the
1iceties OF service you pride yourself on.
and when at last he is placed at the head
OF the dining room. he will be able to In
struct his underlings in the same
Every morning the head waiter mar
srals his little army on dress parade. No
regimental drill master ever scrutinized
Tommy Atkins more closely than he in
spects the accout-eruents and belongings OF
these soldiers of the tray and salver. Each
applicant for job must pass test. Fas-
tidious diner that ne IS. the head waiter
has the newcomer wait on him, to be ap-
pointed an extra il ne succeeds Then.
WREN everything is spick and span, the old
walters in the places OF honor and the
extras in the background the public
comes. and the head waiter, his role OF
fastidious critic and Pathfinder a an end.
assumes his usual polite, tngrattatins SELF