davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
Feminine Frills

rrYOMEN have for ages been as
NV sociated with lace in every
w imaginable guise. They have
always been clever enough to realize
that no abnegation OF this delight
fully feminine adornment ever is sup
piled by the mannish styles affected
by few strong minded women
The touch of lace is evident on al
most every part OF a costume. We
owe this, perhaps. to the influence
Of the LoHs. when dress attained an
ornamentation founded on extrav-
agance. and in a more refined form we
have accepted the flmy decoration.
Lace mas left the ballroom and the
boudoir, and can be seen on the
streets in irresistible com bination
with different parts OF an outdoor
costume. Few things seem to escape
the fascinating frill: the wearers may
revel IN 1t TO their hearts delight
1t Is used as an undersleeve for ths
oroadcloth street gown Ecru lace Is
gathered mtg velvet ribbon band
This last touch is seized with joy BY
women who wish to add beauty and
grace to white fingers.
Even the hat is under its spell u
has been pleated and is used to out
line the velvet buckle form on the front
OF the hat. There is a certain freshness
supplied by lace in this instance; and.
moreover. continuation Is possible by
the removal OF the lace and a return
after cleaning
For the short coat. used to AL the
space between lapels 1t seems particu-
larly adapted. Net edged with gold
lace falls in becoming plisse. This
Is decided revivals OF the Louis XVI
time.
Probably the best thing about this sub
Ject is the fact that any woman can add
lace to her street costume in a very
short time. and when tired OF IL she
can remove II. II Is Just one more Op-
portun1ty to change the appearance OF
ones garo; and. let it be known, IL has
been grasped by many Of the gentler
sex as an important addition to the
street costume.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
Undersleeves Again

BECAUSE the three-quarter or half
sleeve is looser than 1t was, the
- long cuff Cor the short one) has
taken on the dignity of an old-time
undersleeve.
Here is a pretty piece of handwork,
for they are usually separate, or so tenn
porariy fastened in that they may be
loosened at a moments notice.
We make them of the sheerest linen
and embroider them with French eyelet
and solid work, with bits of old or
strips of new lace as insets.
The undersleeve is provided with
wristband fitting the arm above the
wrist or just below the elbow.
Some of the newest are as loose as the
upper sleeve, and are held to very
large wristband
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
PLEATED
NECKWEAR

TNHE most charming new neckwear
IN linen. null. lace and tulle. noe
u to speak OF their countless conf
binations. is so planned and shaped az
TO meet the manifold demands OF frivol-
Gus woman 1t is. however. hopeful
sign to note a 1essening Of perishaels
stocks.
MaIine and the other ''unlaunderables
have given place to many closely fitted
and becoming stocks and cuffs The
pleated cuffs are fitted into wristbands
OF hand-embroidered linen. which bind
the wrist as closely as does the stock
the neck.
Close lines IN necks and collars ars
desirable beyond description --and M set
OF sheerest handkerchief linen falling In
fit should be considered worthy. even
although it proclaim the latest touch OK
the season.
Knife-pIeated collar and cuffs sets are
made OF valenciennes lace and insertion
alternated with narrow bands Of sheer
linen. sewed together by hand. their
edges rolled beneath. The cuffs fas-
ten 10 tnch-wide bands OF the linen,
the Pierrot frill to a simple stock collar
OF the lace and linen. boned and fitted
PIeatings are 50 prevalent IN all forms
that besides tho Jabot itself, which In
frequently treated the same way, ths
neck ruche above the stock Is an inoh-
wide linen pleaHng hemmed by hand
The ruche should be chosen advtseday.
It is not generally becoming 10 the stout
or to those whose necks are Of generous
measurement, yet short
And while we are on ne subject of
stocks. let US not lose an opportunity 70
suggest the accurate fastening at ths
center back. which proclairns q woman
well or Ill dressed.
II the stock laps, take advantage OF IT.
length to button and buttorhoie Il to-
gether. using lace buttons.
Should the joint be meeting placS
merely, It were well to uee buttons and
embroidered loops.
The boning, too. Is a matter for much
thought. Ignorance Is the rule and not
the exception on this question OF bones
One Is needed at the back. and should
be placed on the left or button side
Two side bones will do the rest. but
their place depends on the poise OF the
head.
An excellent plan In the adjusting OF
bones Is the placing Of them first during
the fitting upon the outside OF the col
lar, and then the replacing Of them on
the wrong side when the stock is re-
moved
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
Without Innings

TUST as persistently as we follow
II French fashions in dress TO the ex-
= clusion of the more usual English,
so do we absorb their actual methods
without a thought of those of other ma
tions.
Paris modiste, no matter of what the
garment be made, while our careful
English dressmaker clings to the per-
Gale, and even the silesia, lining. and
demands one sort or another to work
upon.
We ourselves no longer regard the lin
ing as necessity for cleanly reasons.
We accept the silk or batiste slip as its
substitute, and depend on ''the bath
persistent to keep our garments clean.
Without the lining we arrive at that
certain delicacy of the French as nearly
as American fingers can copy it.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
Separate Embroidery

pieces of embroid-
wv cry used upon heavy linen
w dresses-the all-white sort-are
finished and applied when done, instead
of being made upon the garment or ma
terial.
Half-moons and semicircular pieces,
varying in shape and size and resem-
bling a small ripple in effect, are fin
ished along their rounded lower edges
with a binding or false hem of hand
kerchief linen. Their whole surface is
richly embroidered and inset with net
or drawn work and they are then
basted upon bodice or skirt in their
rightful positions and their solid work
continued up into the material of the
garment, making them a rich part of
the dress.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03

mercerized cotton the ideal thread for
the embroidery.
Now for the decoration Half of the
front design is shown and half of the
back, with a repeat to be placed on
the front of the small sleeve
To transfer the scallop along the
edge Of curved sleeve. trace it upon
tissue or tracing paper and then bend
or curve the paper TO fit the outer edge
OF the sleeve. after which trace the
scallop upon the material by laying
carbon paper between the garment and
the pattern you have made.
This is a most beautiful design, and
so simple to do that the most mex
perienced or the oldest embroiderer win
exclaim at a glance. How easyr Only
the petals and leaves are solid; the
stems are outline stitch. while the CEN
ter Of each flower. and all of the grad
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03

all been resorted to by French designers.
Roses are made of insertion with a
few ribbon petals surrounding them.
Lace is wired into huge outstanding
bows on many new hats-each loop be-
ing wired through the hem along the
straight edges, and each end being cut
and wired in half circle.
Black lace is run with white floss, and
the white is treated to a silver tracery
by way Of added richness.
Tall wired trimmings are an effect
sought for by the Parisienne and by her
American followers, and the mass Of
maline bows at its best has little bear
ing on the hat. SO far does it stand out
In a winged effect at the back.
One Of the most apparent notes of the
season is the laciness OF everything. and
lt Is not difficult for the amateur.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03

uated circles in groups Of three, are to
be done as eyelets
The oval slots for the ribbon are also
eyelets. In doing the buttonholed seal
lops, try to keep the points on the outer
edge instead of losing them by hurried
work. They are most expressive. Rose
colored ribbons have not lost their hold
on the Partisan who follows the fash
ions in lingerie, and when she substi-
itutes blue for becoming reasons, she Sc
lects a deep tapestry blue, even for
underwear.
The sleeve. to go back to it again,
Is particularly desirable for the young
girl, whose thin dresses demand this
added protection.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
Cluny With Plaid

DLUE and white checked linen frocks
are made beautiful by the inser-
- ton OF very coarse cluny motifs.
The breastplate on a curiously cut
model with the new high bolero effect
is of cluny; the sleeve panels repeat the
design; a skirt panel on each side Of
the lower skirt holds in the gathered
portion of the side cores, suggesting a
slight panier.
When cluny lace is inserted, it is
merely placed upon the finished model,
sewed round it's edge with fine stitches
and the material beneath Ii Is cut away
and the edge rolled.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03

I" ODAY'S design for a. young girls
corset cover is one OF those al
together desirable articles too
good TO miss. 1 am complying
with a request for the short-sleeved gar
ment. which you will see in the small
sketch of the finished corset cover.
There is no opening back or front TO
interfere with the design; the garment
slips on over the head, there being
merely the shoulder seams and two
short under-arm seams 10 be felled to-
gether after the embroidery is COM
pleted. A casing round the waist, or
strip OF lace beading fora ribbon draw
string. will be required, as final touch,
together with the neck ribbon run
through slots and two bows on each
arm TO tie together the open sleeve.
Nainsook is the very best material
for the successful corset cover and
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
Purse and Handbag

vYOU can make them both-the small
chatelaine purse and the linen
\ shopping bag.
First, get your mounts to match in
large and in smaller size. Measure SO
that your linen, when made up and lined,
will fit the mount, and then trace on
pattern and embroider.
gold-colored linen, embroidered in
coarse linen floss TO match, will be fit
accompaniment to any gown.
The small purse is the exact counter
part of the handbag, with perhaps por-
tion of the motif embroidered thereon.
Fastened to brass mountings. the
small purse is suspended by a brass
To be more elegant, gold threads may
be substituted for the linen floss
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
A Plain Tunic

n NE of the plainest and most easily
accomplished tunics for the anna
~ teur Is an oblong square OF
coarse net hung over silk or linen cos
tune at both front and back.
They reach from the band to almost
the hem, and are slightly gathered at
the girdle line. Their finish is strip Of
insertion or Of ribbon velvet, mitered at
each lower corner and invariably sewed
on by hand to insure the net against
pulling and drawing.
In the case of the somewhat stout hg-
ure, the separate halves OF this plain
tunic are held together at each side by
bows of the ribbon velvet or by straps
of the insertion.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
-Z517 o671ZAsr Mlz IxcI vuchgI -
~ Z17Z1vrNNeV ZN7g7 -

VIZ HILE the sheer blouse prevails
wv the stock collar can scarcely
decline, and the present spEing
ushers IN fresh supply of this SIM
piest Of neck arrangements.
Should the shirtwaist girl cling de-
votedly to the stin. mannish collar.
the stock will be offered as a relief for
those who seek the comfort OF un-
starched folds.
100 many neck fxings? Never, so
long as we don blouse or tub. dress daily;
here. for the benefit Of the hand en-
proloerers among our readers There
- variety enough to suggest many
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
Corded Shirring

q HIRRINGS of net over colored satin
rattail appear on many of the new
~ lace and net dresses. The color
SHOWS through attractively, and the
work Is necessarily done by hand, so
tnat by no mistake in the sewing the
snlrring will refuse to pull.
This Is but one of many ways of or
namenting the lingerie dress success
fully at home; and this cording is good
method for the drawing in OF the full
skirt around the knees or below them,
which is a late development of the
panier.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03

pretty devices in the home manufac-
ture of the stock.
Look first at the Irish lace collar.
Two rows of insertion have been sewn
by hand to as many strips of sheer
handkerchief linen, the under edges
have been rolled and the outer edge
on three sides finished with scallop
of the Irish. This done. the final touch
of handwork has been added in a row
of tiny polka dots on the lower strip
of linen and a graduated row of larger
dots along the upper edge.
Another lace stock worthy OF home
effort is that edged around its four sides
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03
NNsC7s7No rye az dHI7S7 H2sz-o1rp -

with a scallop of Irish. Made Of linen
filet, which Is one of our best wearing
insertions. the collar proper is over
Tapped with appliques Of cut-out hand
embroidery. BY way of economy, this
upper part may be the leftover bit from
some exquisite frock or blouse.
Lace again, but in the shape OF a
little rune edging the embroidered
rundown Of a tucked linen collar. This
belongs to one of the women who can
wear the neck ruche; it is not becom-
ing to all.
An embroidered linen stock. seal
loped along its edge and done in solid
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-03

and eyelet work. shows care and that
nice choice OF linen-a medium weight
which only the expert embroiderer
knows.
Most stocks are lowered slightly in
front. They should be accurately
measured so that they will button in
the exact middle Of the back. which
means thai there is greater length on
the left side to admit OF an underlap.
which Is the button piece
The home-manufactured collar has
the great advantage OF "ht' over all
bought articles. no matter how ex-
quisite their design and workman@hip.
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
MARINERS FEARS OF F0GS
Numerous Safeguards Devised for
Protection Against Dire Peril
OF the Ocean.

Probably the greatest menace to the
safety Of navigation at sea is the fog
Modern steamships are seldom endan-
gered by the seVerest storms. but when
the impenetrable envelope Of mist en-
closes vessel. she is exposed to the
most terrible of perils--n collision at
sea. single ship may be compare
lively safe even In a fog but when
there is a fleet OF vessels the danger
is greatly multiplied In addition to
the customary fog-horns and sirens a
feet of warships often will keep in
formed Of their relative positions by
the firing of signal-guns from the flag
ship. Another excellent method gen
orally employed Is the use of the fog.
buoy. Each vessel In a warship fleet
carries a fog buoy, large cask paint
ed a bright red This is cast over
board at the first sign OF any fog and
floats from the stern OF the vessel at
tached by a rope of grass fiber which
does not sink beneath the surface Of
the water Sufficient rope is paid out
by each vessel, so that its fog buoy
floats at the bow OF the ship next
astern-two cables length (4ot
yards) when in close order anC
double that distance in open order
by this means the exact stations Of
the individual ships of a feet are
maintained, even though proceeding a
a moderate rate of speed.
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
DIABETES

1t was not easy for US to believe
that Diabetes is incurable. but the
first case we came in personal touch
with was astonishingly convincing.
We were considering the purchase
of Fultons Compounds and were look
ing for cases 10 try them out on. One
OF our number knew Charles A. New
ton. the Yardmaster of the S. p. R. R.
Co.. at Sacramento very worthy
ma1 He also knew that Newton had
ID, betes and was in a hospital in the
CAPITOL city and that his recovery
seemed impossible when he last heard
from him. A letter was written TO
Newton that Fulton claimed ais Dis-
betes Compound cured Diabetes and
that we wanted 10 know from OUR
friends If this was So and that II he
(Newton) would take il that we would
send him a supply OF it. Newton re-
piled to the effect that some four or
five months before we wrote him he
hal heard about the compound, had
taken 1t that the sugar was nearly
out and he was almost well. His com
plcte recovery followed and he told
an S. P. engineer who had Diabetes
and he recovered
We also saw Gen. Theo. Reichert
of San Francisco go on this treatment
and get a complete recovery after ply
siCans had declared that the case
was hopeless Gen Reichert Is a
33rd degree Mason and is one of San
Franciscos most widely and favorably
known citizens.
We have seen hundreds recover
since and there is no longer any ques
ton about Diabetes in people OF mid
die age and over being durable.
For free literature address John j.
Fulton Co 2l2 First Street, San Fran
cisco, Cal.
Fulton's Diabetes Compound can
be had of our agent in your city.
For sale and represented in Ben
nington by b. A. Quinlan.
We desire all patients to write u'
who are not noting the usual i'm
provement by the third week.
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
SHOULD NOT READ AT MEALS
Many Reasons Why the Habit Is In
furious as Well as Unman-
nerly.

The habit Of reading at meals is 10
be condemned. and more particularly
when il has grown TO one Of actual
study. and when the reader endeavors
to gain knowledge and to save time
AZ his meals The solitary reader, Il
he reads, should only read what is
light and amusing. The common
practice Of having the morning paper
at our breakfast table is hot especial
" injurious, as il furnishes items for
conversation. and does not particular
" exercise the brain. but if it should
do so it is advisable to at once discon-
tinue it, Digestion is always best
when the physical processes of our
frames are left Ito discharge their
work free from nervous trammels. It
Is on the ground of the elevation Ct
spirits produced by cheerful associa-
ton with others that pleasant com
pany at meals has always formed a
condition Of social enjoyment The
stimulus TO nervous activity which is
thus given acts benefcially on the di
gestive powers, just as the man who
is harassed. worried and excited will
not be likely to digest or eat salts
factory meal-Family Doctor
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
Unwritable English.

did you know that there Is at
least one sentence in English that can
be spoken, but that it is impossible to
writer" asked Cambridge university
don.
Eyes, it's correct English, l suppose,
and then again 1t isn't. Here is the
sentence, although VOW don't
know how you are going to write 1t:
There are three twos in the English
language You see, If you spell two,
two, the sentence is incorrect, as it
IN II you spell 1t either too or to-
Catch the point? Really 1t is incorrect
to say 1t, although 1t certainly should
be possible to express the thought
This thing has set me going, and II
simply goes to show what a tangle
the English language is. There GER.
tainly is word two and a word too
and another to, and they are all
three pronounced alike-two, too, or
to-which makes 1t correct to say:
There are three twos,' or three toos,
or three tos' in the English language.
But what's the use?"
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
whv Women Are peeeItfuI.

The soiling of a pinaforo means
greater trouble for a baby girl thar
the soiling Of an overall for her broth
err and with the injustice is inculcated
the idea that dress is to be a matter
OF first Importance in her life. Later
when she goes to the drawing room
she must look pretty" and be nice. "
and say sweet things for mammals
friends every effort is put forth, in
tact. TO make her an arrant little num-
bug. IN the poorhouse it is worse. II
is the small girl who learns all the
,u.tsl.I-es. an the decets, all the
les. which a miserable wife too often
uses as shield against a tyrannics
end cruel hnsband.-T P.'s Weekly
London
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
CLIEG TO ARGENT t.Elto25
Many Egyptian Farmers To-Day Use
Tools Such as Ancestors Rad
Centuries ago.

zone OIL the curious sights IN the
Egyptian harvest season is a modern
tbreshing machine noisily working in
a led adjoining that in which ma
tive thresher is treading out the
grain" said a Chicagoau, who has
made a tour of the world in the inter
ests of American farming implements
The brown-skinned tiller of the soil,
clad in his flowing robes OF white or
the favored dull blue and yellow com
bination sitting on the high seat oil
the crude thresher, which is dragged
over the fields by yoke of patient
camels or perhaps a camel and
donkey or a couple of buffalo COWS,
appears to the stranger who sees this
for the first time like the principal
actor in a scene worked out by an
ingenious mind for stage effect.
The native pillow in Egypt is sim
ply the forked portion of a tree or
two pieces joined together and
smoo,hed of, primitive contriyance
vhich>may still be seen in use by
Cuban farmers The thresher is a
sledg like affair fitted with round
crushers of wood or iron and weighted
down from the top. The grain is
crushed into the ground and when
gathered up it is mixed with Jumps OF
mud. but It is said that never a
kernel of it is lost or wasted.
American farming machinery may
he found ln.the remostest parts Of the
world and where least expected. In
what manner il gets there could not
ascertain The natives could not en-
tighten me"
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
ARE YOU,
GOOD WOMAN, AT
YOUR BEST?

Many beautiful women md themselves
losing good looks and health-slowly fad
ing from a cause unknown 10 them. She
has no appetite, and the food she does eat
seems TO do her no good. Whyi If you
should ask her what the trouble is, she
would say, u am just tired out" But
the real cause is constipation and its result
ing condition - bad blood. Just think
what habtual neglect of the bowels means
- sickness instead Of good health ner-
vousness instead Of vigor; cheerfulness
replaced by depression, happiness by misery.
A weeks use Of Smiths Pineapple and
Butternut Pills will work wonders. They
will regulate the functions of the liver and
the bowels, Immediately unload the conges-
ton, cure the constipation and cleanse the
blood of impurities. These little pills will
soon make you feel and look at your best.
Physicians use and recommend. They
form no habit. You should always keep
them on hand. These little Vegetable
Pills will ward of MANY ills.
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
A Safeguard to Children.

Our two children of six and eight
years have been since infancy sub
ject to colds and Group. About three
years ago | started to use Foley's
Honey and Tar, and it has never
failed to prevent and cure these
troubles. 1t is the only medicine |
can get the children to take with
out row" The above from w. c
Ornstein, Green Bay, Wis, duplicates
the experience of thousands of other
users of Foleys Honey and Tar. 1t
cures coughs, colds and Group, and
prevents bronchitis and pneumonia
-Quinlan's Pharmacy.
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
THERE IS IN The WORLD TODAY

a constantly growing criticism OF
the costs of living. 1t is not without
reason but what will your family
your wife and children, do about II
after you are gone? We can only
suggest thrift, econamy and provis-
len and the acceptance OF life insur'
ance as a necessity. 6lst year. Ma.
tional Life Insurance Company,
Montpelier, VT (MutuaD Earle s.
Klnsley. Agent Rutland, Vt.
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07
The PHILOSOPHER Of Folly.

1.-THE best time to make pessimist
acknowledge that maybe he's wrong"
says the Philosopher of Folly, is
when he has finished his cafe noir
and is lighting his cigar"
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07

For his sins on earth the aut0mobil-
list was sentenced to fall eternally
through space at the rate of 10000
feet a second. Say" he said, that
beats ioy-ridng all hollow"
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1910-02-07

Honor is that quality which prompts
man to avenge attacks upon his OVID
women, but fails to restrain him from,
making attacks upon other M
women. Smart Set. -.