The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-08-28
Remodeling Last
Years Sleeves

M yea years $ Dire dresses win II need no no
AvA further remodeling for fall-if
they were built originally on rather
tight and straight lines-than the max
ing over of the sleeves. The great point
in these is the undersleeve. appearing
IN all sorts of forms and guises.
Sometimes 1t IS the. simple pulled I'M
dersleeve of dotted net or lace. gathered
under a shoulder cap of the dress
material, and with quilted or ruffled
cuff of lace or lace-edged lawn or ba-
tiste. In this case 1t is frequently short,
even for autumn wear, sometimes end
ing above the elbow, so that sixteen
button-length gloves must be worn with
It. In even more simple form, 1t is
gathered to a narrow, straight cuff.
Usually the shoulder cap above it is
braided in Persian design. forming a
border, which is continued to the front
and back of the blouse.
The undersleeve again appears as a
putting at the elbow, or covers almost
the entire arm, with an oversleeve ap-
pearing as a deep cuff and a shoulder
cap halfway down the upper arm. In
the former case the oversleeve. usually
of cloth-for this style is favored for
one-piece tailored dresses-is cut in leg
of-mutton shape. slightly puffed at the
shoulder and gathered at the inside or
the elbow. Then for about six inches
around the elbow the cloth is cut and
braid bordered and the silk undersleeve
appears, gathered in from the cloth.
In a gown Of this sort the silk will re-
appear as the chemisette, or the cloth
will be used merely in a bolero effect
on the blouse.
In the second style OF undersleeve
mentioned above the cuff and shoulder
sleeve of silk or chiffon is tucked dag
onally In two opposite directions that
meet at the outer arm, interlapping all
the way down. This is rather difficult
to describe, but the effect is seen in baS-
kets woven of broad straw.
There are two extremes in under
sleeves, too: one where IL appears SIM
ply as tight sleeve showing under the
kimono sleeve of the dress for about
three inches above the lace cuff; the
other where the oversleeve itself, on the
other hand, is shown only in epauletteS
and a straight cuff five or six inches
is of tucked dotted net. the tucks being
so deep that only about ten are needed
from shoulder to wrist.
Two other undersleeve effects easily
copied by the home dressmaker are
also popular. One shows a full under
sleeve, gathered at the wrist of silk.
and a braided cloth overSlaeVe that is
sewed over 1t on the bias, so to speak.
so that 1t is caught in front at a single
point and is cut away in diamond shape
above and below this meeting point. The
other consists Of a full shirred net un-
dersleeye, with the oversleeve showing
as sort of elongated shoulder cap, fas-
tened across the inner arm by means of
straps and bows of narrow velvet
As for sleeves not showing the under
sleeve idea, they nearly all have exag-
gerated military cuffs, turned back in
some cases almost to the elbow. Usu-
ally these are ornamented with a row
of big buttons, and the sleeve otherwise
Is perfectly straight and rather tight
The only sleeves which are cut abso-
lutely plain are deliberately braided.