The new era., 1910-11-03

top of the corsage is cut in severe
round or small square and filled with
q guimpe of unlined white mousseline
de sole, while short chemise sleeves
fall over long. plain undersleeves that
match the guimpe. The fine old house
that launched this fascinating costume
showed tailored costumes built on the
same Moyen age model. To the edge
of the straight, long body part the
short skirt was attached. laid at each
side in a few fiat pleats. closely held
to preserve their form. The coat was
a tiny affair, reaching to the edge OF
the skirt yoke and close fitted. but
toning straight from bust to hem. The
open side seams were held close to-
gether by double lines Of small gun
metal bullet buttons; the seam at the
back of the coat sleeves was finished
in the same manner, and buttons with
cord loops trimmed the fiat collar and
revers.
There is no end to the variety OF
buttons used in the greatest quant-
ties as trimming on costumes OF ev-
cry description. On tailored cos
tune of dark blue serge tiny gold ball
buttons were counted by hundreds. In
lines and clusters they followed the
curve OF the collar and revers; they
trimmed the sleeves. and they pep
pered narrow bands used in the decora-
ton OF the skirt. On tailored cos
tune of rough wool in mixed shades
of gray this lavish array Of buttons
was in g,lnmetal: on deep cream serge
they were in shaded pearl. but always
large or small, the bullet shape is
the one preferred.
Soutache braiding also holds an i'm
portant place in the decoration OF
street costumes. About band of fur
1t edges the skirt. 1t clusters in cor
ners of the coat. 1t trims the coat
sleeves. covers the plastron that fills
the open front of the coat. and shapes
a half belt at high waist line at the
back These masses of rich raised
work are especially effective. whether
carried out in self colors. as they gen.
orally are. or in pale. delicate con-
trasts.
Large cable cords. and cords COW
cred with heavy silk and with velvet.
are twisted into every form of orna-
mentation for both tailored and after
noon gowns. Effective. such docora-
tions are also Individual; for. applied
on the costume after shaping, the
taste Of the worker determines the de-
sign A most elaborate trimming of
this sort was noted on an evening
gown of gold striped gauze. Two big
cords. covered. one with gold tissue.
one with silver. were twisted togeth-
er to frame band of yellow fur. dyed
the shade desired. A band Of cream
lace laid over gold trimmed the cor
sage and fell at one side of the back
into a long sash end, weighted with
long fur tail The short sleeves of
striped gauze were hemmed with
two-inch band of fur-a pretty fancy,
which is seen as often on sober after
noon gowns as on those for evening
wear. Often this is the only bit OF
fur on the entire garment. Long tas-
sells and gold and silver fringes are
used in the most amusing manner to
finish the three-cornered or pointed
bits of drapery that are called trains.
When left free of the underskirt they
fall with picturesque grace; when held
close to the underskirt they bob and
dance oddly with every movement
Skirts cut shorter back and front.
leaving the side breadths to hang
couple Of inches longer are coquett.
ishly pretty, wholly exposing the well
shod feet; but this fashion. like many
others, Is one well left to the young
slender and graceful woman. and she
should be prepared to discard so ex-