Daily Arizona silver belt., 1910-04-27

toire draperies have been completely driven from the field by the overskirts, tunics, double skirts and tlounceS, The new double skirt effects are undoubted, ly youthful and charming and far more becoming to the majority of women than the clinging draperies of the win. ter season. The fashion pattern books abound with models of apron overskirts or tunics in pointed or rounded effects, and the style is so easy to make up satisfactorily and lends itself to such pretty trimming effects that we shall see many frocks of the apron tune character this summer.
 There are also two other varieties of the double skirt, the Russian blouse or smock, and the long crusader tunic, which falls almost to the ankles. The latter style is the dernier cri in Paris inst now and most of the lately import ed gowns show this long tunis rather than the abbreviated apron style of drapery.
 The crusader tunic is fastened direct ly down the front, or little to one side of the front, and has the effect of
 
 belt or girdle at the waist. This belt is worn rather loose, often, in the case of the leather belts, which are particu- larly fashionable falling below the waist in front. Of course, this makes the figure more bulky than the snugly drawn belt, but the peasant style, which Paris is now affecting, does not encourage trim and snug figure lines. If one is slender enough to stand it one may be as loose and comfortable as one pleases in the baggy belted peasant smocks and tunics which are just now the grande chic. Women of ample pro portions, however, can make themselves presentable only in such dresses, if they wear suitable long corsets and the thin nest kind of undergarments.
 A feature of the peasant blouse is it's seamless shoulder, the sleeves being cut all in one with the body of the garment, Seams are run in beneath the sleeve and down the sides of the garment; and in the genuine peasant smock square patch of the material is always set in at the joining of these under-arm and under-seeve seams. This square patch is to be found in most of the French blouses initiating the peasant style, al though amateur dressmakers arc prone to omit this mark of gcnuineness in the blouse. The square patch gives freedom when the arm is raised and adds extra strength to the garment
 Sometimes the peasant shoulder IS suggested by trimming over the top of the bodice, the sleeve being cut and set into the garment in the ordinary manner. One of the fashionable shops displayed an extremely smart model, having a crusader tunic made of one of the new voile foulards which are almost transparent in weave, and this tunic was mounted over skirt founce of plain-c -cOlored satin. The tunic was in a pale amethyst tint with stripes of deep hyacinth on which were rows of white dots, and the satin founee was in the hyacinth shades. The girdle was also made of hyacinth satin and white color. ing. Across the shoulders and extend ing down over the sleeves was an em- placement of lighter amethyst satin em- broidered in self color and white, and this satin empiecement, covering shoul- der and arm seams, gave the effect of a seamless peasant blouse.
 Paris has taken up gingham for warm weather costumes and has placed the stamp of its approval upon the once de. cidedly plebeian material. However the ginghams affected by the French women of fashion, bear but little resem- blance to the old fashioned cotton ma terial of that name. Some of the new ginghams are quite expensive as silk Often, as far as the material goes, one may pay quite as much for one s Scotch gingham morning frock as for the af ternoon costume of foulard; and the gngham frock may be quite as smart in it's way as the more ambitious model of silk. The silk novelty ginghams are particularly fine and light in texture and the colorings are very soft and beautiful.
 Foulards, linens, batiste, chiffons and even the practical ginghams, come with graceful border patterns along one edge, and these bordered materials make up splendidly into double skirted eff fleets. The long crusader tunic and the skirt beneath often show border on each, and these skirts, when worn rath CT short, to show the wearer's foot and ankle, are exceedingly youthful and 6i"NOAui ih OhV't, DlONiucu JHc NtdItl had slender figure. Bulky women look like a fright in such costume, how ever.
 Though not literally in double-skirt effect, the chiffon tunics over summer foulards are exceedingly dainty and charming. These tunics are usually il the crusader style, with a loose belteC blouse attached to long skirt which 'liangs about to the knee. A French tunic shown on some imported models but not greatly favored in this coun try, is of two shades of chiffon, dark CT yoke and hem being added to tuni, of light tint The plain colOred tunics however, are prettiest over the pat termed foulards, and some very charm ing effects are achieved by a harmoniz ing blending of tints. For instance q wood brown chiffon effect was hung over a green fOulard; smoke gray tunic over an old blue and white pat tern; light green tunic over a darkel green silk, and so on. Rose colored foul ards are usually draped with black chif