New-York tribune., 1910-09-18
SECRETS OF FUR
Some Things Intending Pur-
chasers Ought to knozC.

Some OF the materials that go 10 the
making OF womans costumes their weaTer
need not know much about. If they please
her for so long a time as il suits her TO
wear them II matters little whether she
is even able to call them by their right
names or not. But the wise woman will
not approach the task of buying furs
without knowledge. She will go TO a house
that is willing to give her the fullest in
formation about the different kinds and
grades of skins and about the genuine and
imitation furs, so that when at last she
makes her purchase she can do so with
confidence that she is getting just what
she is paying for and that she viii not be
disappointed in the amount Of service given
by the articles chosen.
Perfectly honorable and upright inita-
tions OF the more costly furs there are
that are sold by reputable establishments
for just what they are, though less scru-
pulous dealers give them any fanciful
names that they think may attract Gus
toners. Seal has always been a favorite
skin, and as It is steadily growing more
rare and costly il is. as matter of course.
much initiated The two animals by which
the seal that is not seal is supplied are the
coney and the uuskrat. The skins Of both
these creatures have to be clipped and
dyed before they are ready TO De made
into seal garments. and when these proc
esses have been completed it requires some
skill TO distinguish one from the other OF
the two the muskrat Is the more desirable
One of its good points is its softness and
phability. and for this reason it is used
for the wide scarfs intended TO be draped
around the figure, like those of satin or
chiffon, that are one OF the new features
in furs this year.
Another valuable skin that Is initiated in
. curious way is the silver fox The red
fox is the chief agent in the production of
this copy Of nature, and the badger is also
called II TO assist. First. the red fox fur
Is dyed TO match the dark hue Of the sill
yer fox, and then the spTinkIinE OF white
supplied by the badger. is put in The
dark fur Is separated ana the white hairs
are carefully placed and fixed with cement
IN The minds Of most persons the thought
or errnine fur is never dissocIatsd from the
Charming little yelEow-tinted, black-tipped
tails or the animals that produce IL and
the presence Of the tails is often taken as
an indication OF the genuineness OF d fur
II this was ever 4 safe rule TO follow II
Is no longer SO, for ernine is now made up
without the tails, and these decorative
little appendages may find place instead
IN garments OF white coney The object
OF the latter device is not to deceive. but
10 place an attractive garment within
reach OF the woman who cannot afford
one of real ermtne. A beautiful evening
wrap OF this kind is shown by one OF the
old fur houses on Fifth avenue. It's lines
are exquisite, and the deep chenille fringe
that surrounds it adds 10 its charms, but
no secret is made Of the fact that the
humble coney has an unfortunate tendency
TO shed its hair, a rudeness of which the
more aristocracc ermine would not be
guilty.
Ernline is such a beautiful fur that il
seems hardly possible II could ever s1IfPzr
from neglect. but there can be no doubt
that the English mourning and consequent
reign Of black and white will make the
demand for II greater than ever during
the coming season. To the same influence
may be attributed the Introduction and ac-
ceFt2nce of the soulbre-hued moIeskin. The
dark gray OF this fur IS not becoming TO
all women, but il serves admirably as 2
foil TO brighter tints. The small animals
from which 1t IS obtained are found in
oiHerent countries. but the Scotch mole
has the most valuable skin
The fitch, an animal that belongs to Ger
many, mas provided a fur that fits in well
with other modes OF the season It's pale
golden tnts, mingled with a brown that is
aImest black, are very effective with the
rlght setting Raccoon, too, a fur that has
hitherto been but lightly esteemed, is com
ing into its own, and adapts itself very
gracefully 10 its changed circumstances.
Like other furs of small reputation, # can
with skilful treatment De made 10 display
unexpected beauty
IL has been said that muffs are 10 he
larger than ever this year. but that is hard
ly possible. In this as in other rna+te-s
OF dress Just now there are no SET rules.
and while there are many enormous nuffs.
small ones are considered quite as smart
Neckpieces are spreading themselves out
into wide, straight scarfs and shoulder
capes Two charming models seen last
week IN q Fifth avenue furrier's were of
erTT1Ine, made in the cape style and trimmed
with white fox One came down in TWO
points about 10 the waist line al both hack
and front, and was bordered all around
with the fox Only enough OF the arrutne
tails were used TO form row around the
neck and down the front just inside the
border of fox. The other was elongated
In front-rnore Ike a pelerine The tails
We're placed at regular intervals all over
the ermine fur. and the fox was used onIy, /
around the neck and - N the fronts
~%