Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-11

expensive type of costume, are the grand
chic this summer. In Paris these frail
wraps are called race coats and they
are worn at the races at LonSchamps and
Auteuil on racing afternoons There is a
continual procession OF smart motor cars
on the avenues leading to these places
Sunday afternoons. and the frocks, hats.
paraSClS and chiffon wraps displayed are
a study in themselves.
When the layers of chiffon are COM
bined with chantiIly and other laces. and
the whole transparent fabric laid over a
gown of shimmeTing Satin-well. the sum
total foots up to an impressive figure.
even as measured by the estimate OF
French cOuturier. But some of the trans
parent frocks with transparent coats over
them are so lovely that no husband one
feels sure, would ever be unfeeling
enough to baik at the check
The eanut OF color effects to be pro-
duced by chiffon over chiffon having been
exhausted. makers are now bringing out
new chiffons in wonderful changeable
colorings. and these new fabrics are SUI
premely beautiful. Greens are combined
with soft, old blues in this way, gray
with rose. lavender with blue or with
pink and SO on, until ii seems that some
Of the color blendings were they edible,
would really melt in ones mouth. In
fact, as the children say of tinted soaps,
the new colors look SO delicious they
ought to be good to eat.
X
One of the transparent wraps illustrated
is built Of this changeable chiffon in a
blending OF the pale yellow of an elm
tree in autumn with the warm, rich fame
color of the maple. In some lights the
golden tone is strongest: in others the
flame color prevails. The wrap is toned
down with touches of black satin and
the hat Of black straw with pale yellow
plumes carries out the color scheme.
The elegance of this changeable chiffon
wrap is entirely in the material, the lines
of the garment being almost austerely
simple. This is purposely done in order
that the rich lace pattern of the gown
beneath may show through the chiffon,
for, after all. these wraps are really little
more than tunicS draped over rich cos
tunes, and wrap and gown must blend
into harmonious whole or the effect is
completely spoiled. In this instance the
gown is made of cream chiffon over a
satin foundation in pale salmon pink, the
black chantilly motifs being appnqued
on the chiffon in very delicate effect
The faint, yellowish pink of the gown
forms a most beautiful back ground for
the warm autumn leaf tones of the chif-
fon wrap, and this also is one of the
carefully studied harmonies of the trans
parent costume as evolved by the French
artistic
Sometimes the dark chiffon wrap is
worn over a lingerie frock of lace and
null, but this effect lacks in distinction
unless the frock is deliberately broken up
by the lace trimming, and is, moreover,
long about the feet, something that few
lingerie frockS are this season. 1t should
ne borne in mind that the chiffon wrap
is a disnihed garment Its distinction
lies in rich material long lines and a GER
tain elegance. 1t must be worn with an
air and be accompanied by most eX-
pensive accessories in the way of hat
paraSOl and SIOyeS.
With the autumn leaf wrap described
above is carried a parasol of salmon pink
on which are appliqued motifs of black
chantiliy, the silk being cut out beneath
the lace in transparent effect. These lace
motifs are joined by festoons painted in
water color in delicate tints directly upon
the silk.
Hand-painted sunshades are a fad just
now and some of the effects are charm
ing. Festoons and garlands are the pref
test of the designs and sometimes oval
medallions are set at intervals, the me-
dallions containing eXquisitely hand
painted faces of court beauties, one space
being set aside for the monogram of the
owner of the paraSOl. In Paris these
dainty paintings are done by. artists in
the Latin quarter, who exc out living
by this work and also by doing little fan
paintings; and in America the parasols
are hand-painted by clever girl artists
There is an eccentric fancy for having
the handle of the parasol at the wrong
end-that is the fancy knob. crook or
ornament which is held in the hand is
attached where the ferule is usually
placed and the metal ferule goes on the
long stick at the other end. Thus the
parasol, when closed. is upside down, and
one advantage of this method is that the
ends of the ribs 40 not catch in the gauzy
laces and chiffons of the costume. One of
the illustrations shows a parasOl of this
sort. This is a white silk parasol. hand
painted with yellow cowslips and daffo-
dis, and is carried with a wrap of
accordion-plaited pale yellow chiffon.
with applques of black chantlly. The
hat has sweeping yellow paradise
feather, and even the gloves harmonic,
for they are of creamy silk, with little
knots of embroidered flowers in yellow.
These embroidered gloves are much cool
er than the kid sort, and some of the
patterns are very dainty, the small flow
ers being worked on the back of the
hands as we'll as on the wrist. The cool
and dainty Niagara Maid in her en-
broidered silk gloves promises to be a
feature of all the smart summer resorts
this season.
With the coming of sunny summer days