The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

are conducted as entirely separate in
dustrfes.
In any woven fabric there are two
systems of threads, the warp, or chain.
running lengthwise of the cloth, and
the woof. or filing, crossing the for
mer at right angles. The dyed silk
reaches the factories in the form OF
skeins. Threads intended for the woof
or filing are wound from the skeins
upon spools or bohbins and thence upon
smaller spools caned quills that fit into
the shuttles. Threads for the warp
or chain are wound from the skeins
upon bobbins and these are placed upon
an upright frame. From these bobbins
the threads are passed through the
lease reed for the purpose of crossing
them as they are placed on the warp
ing mill, so that each thread Will al
ways be kept in it's proper place From
the lease reed the threads pass through
the front reed and from this over the
warping mill, huge creel eight yards
in circumference, fitted with meas
uring apparatus so that the warp can
be cut off at any length desired. The
front reed adjusts the width, control
ling the number of threads per inch,
varying from about 100 in light summer
silks. to 44S in heavy goods. The warp
is placed upon the creel in sections
and then all wound off together upon
the beam laced in the rear. When COM
plete this beam is removed and placed
in position at the rear Of the loom-
If there are different weaves in the
same warp Gas, for example, satin and
taffeta) each must be placed upon
different beam, as one weave will take
up more than the other, and it is es-
sential that all threads be held taut-
A description OF any mechanical op-
Grafton is necessarily vague and diff
ficult of comprehension unless the
printed or spoken word can be supple
mented by the eye as an aid to the
understanding. No detailed description
of the operation of modern power
loom will be attempted. but mention
will be made of some of its essential
features.
1t consists of strong iron frame, at
the back of which is the horizontal
beam or roller from which the warp
unwinds. while at the front is
the roller on which the, web is
wound as woven. Between the two is
the harness, which is a series Of frames
with eyelets, one for every thread or.
set of threads of the warp. In plain
weaving the harness frames are IN two
sets, of three frames each, one set OF
which is up while the other is down.
The number can be increased to sew
eral frames, all acting Independently
for complicated patterns, and in the
Jacquard loom the harness becomes a
set of threads, instead OF frame, so
that every thread of the warp can be
raised or lowered separately. Between
ths>Sharness and the takeup roller is
the "lay," IN which is the reed and a
smooth projecting underportion along
which the shuttles run. The warp
threads, crossed as described in the
lease reed preliminary to going upon
the warping mill, are held in position
by the lease rods, then pass through
the eyelets of the harness, and next
through the reed AS the harness lifts
one set OF threads the shuttle flies
across the warp through the opening
made by such lifting, and the batten
constituted by the reed and lay frame)
beats the thread close in TO its prede-
cessor. The next motion of the har-
ness lifts another set of threads, and
the shuttle Cor perhaps an entirely diff
ferent shuttle) flies back through the
opening, adding another thread. It is
a process slow OF description, but so
rapid in practice that the eye can
hardly follow the motion of the shut
tie back and forth.
For weaving figured patterns the
jacquard loom is used, or a loom fitted
with the jacquard attachment named
from it's inventor, Joseph Maria Jac-
guard The pattern is regulated by an
endless chain of heavy pasteboard cards
which pass over a square prism, called
the cylinder The cylinder is per-
forated with rows OF holes to CORE
spond with horizontal needles" that
control the warp threads. The pat
tern cards are so perforated that for
all warp threads that are TO be raised
above the filing in the woven fabric
holes are cut for the needles aIlowfng
them to pass through. and thus raising
the threads. Where hole is not c,st
through the pattern card. the unpsr-
forated cardboard stops the needle and
the warp threads are not raised.
The making of these pattern cards is
of itself an important subdivision of the
silk manufacturing industry. The de-