The Yakima herald. [volume] (North Yakima, W.T. [Wash.]) 1889-1914, 1910-12-14
HOW TO PRUNE
IN PROPER WAY

There are two buds. One produces
wood and the other produces fruit.
On an apple tree the fruit buds ap-
pear on all limbs over an inch in d.
ameter, but always at the end of a
fruit spur, which appear after the
tree Is two years old. The spurs are
small and very crooked, and many
primers take them off under the be-
lief that their existence spoils the
looks of the tree.
Pear trees have all the character
istics of the apple tree and the fruit
spurs set in a similar manner To
interfere with these spurs is suicidal
The buds are to be found on the
fruit spurs, but may be recognized
by being round and soft.
The wood buds are small and flat
with shorp points and are placed by
nature along the bark of the trees.
Pruning is the most essential thing
in the life and usefulness of the fruit
tree. Do away with the axe in your
tool kit and provide pruning knife,
pair of ten-inch shears; pair of
three-foot pruning shears, a pair of
ten-foot pruning shears, saw and a
bucket Of paint and a brush. Any
a mixture of white lead. Even the
skins which line old paint barrels
and kegs can be utilized.
Pruning is done to keep the tree
alive. in shape and within reach, as
the expense of handling a fruit crop
Is in the use of step-ladders to reach
1T. The best primers do the work
both in the summer and the winter
seasons. Summer pruning produces
fruit and winter pruning brings wood.
Summer pruning should commence
as soon after July 10 as possible,
while the terminal buds are alive
and the sap is running. The plan
should be to cut back the twigs and
branches which are making too
strong a growth. That makes fruit
spur.
Never make a heavy pruning in the
tops of the trees, because the result
Is sure to be found in a heavy
growth of water sprouts. If heavy
cut is made in the tops there must be
a corresponding root pruning, which
Is impracticable. AS tree grows it
puts out root system to correspond
with it's top, and If the latter is cut
back the sap which is taken up by
the roots must be utilized some-
where, and 1t causes growth which
/ Is undesirable.
| In winter, prune any time after the
leaves are off the trees. But the best
time is about February 4, because
thereafter only short period will
elapse before the sap starts and the
wounds begin to heal and the tree
puts on it's wood growth. In winter
cut out the cross-growing branches
the water sprouts, the broken limbs
! and head back the upright growing
| limbs so as to keep the tree fiat.
In cutting off branch use saw
Make the first cut about four inches
from the body of the tree, and or
the under side of the limb. Mex
make a cut on the top of the limt
and one inch nearer the tree. The
| limb will fall and not split the bark
Then cut off the stub of the limb al
close to the tree as the saw will
work, and at once paint the wound
! Where the stubs are left they gathcl
bacteria. become diseased and rat
out. seriously damaging the tree, i
it shall not be ultimately ruined.
| Tree surgery is a branch of sue
cessful pruning which can hardly b.
| covered in a short lecture, but thu
j paint is the first aid to the injured
i AS the wounds heal they must b.
watched and If for any reason tn
i flow of sap is shut off, the grove
must use his pruning knife to opel
seam through which the fluid ma
find a way to do it's work. If tn
grower prunes his trees conscien
tiously during the first years he wi
have little trouble with his orchard
Prof. Chas. A. Cole, Oregon Agri
cultural College. in Colman's Rura
World.
Swellings of the flesh caused b
Inflammation, cold, fractures of tn
bone, toothache, neuralgia or rheu
matism can be relieved by applyin
lBALLARD'S SNOW LINIMENT.
should be wellrubbed in over tn
part affected. Its great healing an
penetrating power eases the pain. RI
duces swelling and restores natur;
conditions Price Csc, SOC and $40
per hottie. Sold by d. H. Fry.
Yakima avenue, and c. w. Cam