Omaha daily bee., 1910-03-13
SIMPLE PARIS LAW OF DRESS
Every Woman to Wear What Becomes
Her Best.
NDUDUAL1sM NOW A FACTOR
Women More Independent of the set
Modes and French DressmRISinE
More OF Business and Less
of High Art.

NEW YORK, March 12-"Tell me what
20 wear this season." woman demanded
OF a dressmaker just back from two
months in Paris.
Anything that is particularly becoming
70 you" the dressmaker answered
promptly.
And there you arel
OF course, there are ideas upon which
special stress will be laid by the dictators
who put forth authoritative spring models.
but there is no truly revolutionary spirit
In the dressmalking world Of Paris now,
though there is talent enough The study
Of present day conditions in that fashion
center would be interesting for one with
a serious interest in the history and
philosophy OF clothes.
AS matter of fact the day of the great
and Independent genius seems to have
passed. A number OF houses are turning
out charming models. Cherint has
forged well toward tho front Callot
soeurs create ravishing frocks, Nine.
Paquin has CLEANS Of inspiration, Drecoll
Is an artist, various new names are
suming prominence, but commercialism Is
rampant In the dressnaking quarters of
Paris and there are those who believe
that as French dressznaling has become
more Of business it has become less OF
a high art.
Men no longer go into secluson with
q great idea and develop It with fasting
and prayer, quite disregarding the com
mercial aspects of the problem and the
commercial value of the time devoted
20 II. Worth the grandson is not Worth
the grandfather, though the grandson
makes lovely frocks Of a conservative
type.
One keeps an eye on the market now
adays and self-expression is not so imper-
ative as a plethorio exchequer.
VIII all this change cost Paris her SUI
premacy In the sphere Of dressmaking?
We doubt it. There is still the French
color sense, there is stil the tradition,
there is still the understanding in the
Partisan work folk.
Queen Elena Of Italy and Queen Vic
tora OF Spain may decree that court
frocks be made in those countries, but
Italian and Spanish coquettes are likely
. to make frequent pilgrimages to the Rue
de la Paix just the same The fashion
lust is still there round about the Place
Vendome and 1t is likely to stay there for
some time to come, though the atrhos-
phere is not the old atmosphere and the
traditions are not the old traditions.
Women are becoming more independent
of the set modes are going in more for
lndlvidualism in their Clothes and that is
why one finds models Of many contrasting
types among the latest offerings Don't
throw aside your short-waisted frocks
II shorted- -waisted lines are particularly
becoming to you. A majority of the new
models have the normal waist line; but
short-waisted frocks viii be worn by many
fashion leader who feels that they suit
her style. and the greatest designers in
concession to this fact have included at
least a few short-waisted frocks among
their spring models.
And II you have a long coat costume
which is really lovely and was remarkably
becoming to you last summer, don't ruth
lessly chop off the coat. Shortening so
often spolls the lines Of good long coat
and there are figures to which the short
coat is distinctly unbecoming. Better
keep the long coat as it is If you foreit
the beautiful and becoming by changing IT.;
and after all many independent women are
ordering long coats
Sleeves are OF all lengths. To be sure
the long close sleeves is a trifle out Of
fashion but there are many ways of adding
fulness to It, and though the long sleeve
is now considered appropriate chiefly for
morning frocks. while the dressier models
usually have the shortened sleeve, this rule
Is not ironcad and one may disregard it
where beauty and comfort dictate.
TUNES and draperies are highly favored
and yet word comes from some of the
best French houses that long unbroken
lines will rule and the tunic has seen its