The San Francisco call., 1910-03-06
French Fashion
Notes
PARIS. Feb. "a.

Y II TIE oA4OAk NOdAS C~NRAS-N~
cepted over here. is now being
improved and varied at the
lower line. Whether the edge shall be
cut at the waist line, the hips or above
the waist, rejecting the bolero and
Eton styles that are surely holding
their own. depends upon the physique
and height of the wearer.
In enc case the jacket will be teroli-
mated by a series OF wide scaIcpS
overlapping each other; in anothe1.
slightly pointed edge bound with wide
braid
The short coat is frequently enbel-
lished with an embroidered plastron
or with cords that fasten across the
front in jaunty military lines.
The change in the modes is charae-
terized by the almost exagSeratsi -
swing OF the pendulum. and the
Partisan Of advanced ideas is now
reveling in the clusters of curls and
the soft. wavy hair that is undouot-
edly more becoming 70 the generality
of women than the straight. swathed
turban style. The Grecian knot. the
Eugenie shoulder curl and the hair
parted at the side are variations or
the new coiffures. The ornaments for
evening wear are extremely elaborate
Shirtwaists for the tailored suit are
showing variations OF the front line'
In all attractive forms OF revers. or
scallops. Color in large. effective
squares OF embroidery is introduced.
and although the an-white style is
never to be totally eliminated from
Of in
the coIored embroideries that the eyes
of our makers and their patrons are
quick to appreciate
Lace is more and more claiming the
attention for trimming hats and
gowns. Black and white are most
used. and when decorating skirts IL
Is adjusted in flounces or as a tuntc.
Old-gold silk for afternoon and
evening wear is being combined with
ehantilly lace. Cloth Of gold and si1-
yer tissue comes again to supple
and glistening rescue when the dull
rose and mahogany shades cry for
a contrasting touch.
Yards and yards OF shaded or
changeabIe ribbon viii be devoted to
the hats in enormous loops. bows and
scarfs.
Figured silks are vying with two
toned effects for street and house
dresses Wooden materials are OF the
very coarsest weaves.
L1rge fiat hats have appeared at
many of the expositions. for the dis
plays OF the large houses may be
called such. and flowers in wreaths
are encircling the low crowns. This
style Is becoming TO nine cut Of ten
women, for 1t is undeniable that the
long sweeping lines Of hats VIII add
to the charm Of the face beneath, and
they are rarely trying to the wearers
on account of stiff or straight effects.
Heavy lace encrusted with gems
shows that the styles so popular in
the winter have been recognized as
worthy OF repetition for spring even
ing gowns
And that leads us to evening wraps
The FrenchwOman. you know. is in
her glory when. arrayed in the best
efforts of the great designers. she can
view other costumes on the stase,
with a willingness to adopt the latest
line or note exploited there.
And at the end Of the evenings per-
formance nothing is quite to be com
pared with the luxury of slipping into
a beautiful wrap that combines com
fort with elegance. Evening cloaks
are growing more magnificent as the
days go on. Heavy gold and silver
enbroideries on supple satin. jewels
In every imaginable shade. and silken
fringe and cords are used TO give al
most a barbarfc splendor
When the introduction OF any re-
vived or original style is made either
in the rooms OF famous mOdiste or
at the social functions that furnish an
arc of the round Of pleasure. it is as
to view the liberal accept
ance OF the style, for the conservatism
OF our American sisters is not a trait
OF the Parisienne. ELOISE