The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1910-11-16
RESTAURANTS AND
THEIR HIS TOR 7

rant. IN the sixteenth century the great
specially Of food was preparation OF
meat, cabbage, and chicken. chopped to-
gether, mixed with barley and rsisins.
favored with dry rose leaf. seasoned with
red pepper, and cooked in a casserole.
This French "ehop-suey" was called res
taurant." Every establishment that sold
restaurant Haunted a plaesrd TO that
effect just as in Boston you may meet Of
a Saturday night the bold sign: Baked
beans and brown bread" Thus the Gus
tom was kept up until. about the end OF
the eighteenth century, restaurants be-
came the name of the houses where the
dish was served.
Before that period travellers could pro-
cure cooked food at inns. but no accom-
mediation was provided for the citizens
Of the town. The man who. in those
days, deserted his own table turned TO
taverns. Here the choice of dishes was
limited, wheFef0r indulgent proprietors
allowed their patrons 10 cart In roasts
cooked by a ''Totisseur," or ragouts
brought IN from "traiteur" And woe
10 the rotisseur or traiteur who tres
passed on the province of the other, for
specialties usually were patented II
the cook who roasted should dare to sell
his roast IN the form OF hash he was
promptly put in prison.
About 1865 merchant of the name of
Boulanger opened ah establishment in
which one could be served with either
roasts or ragouts. besides pastry, wines,
and liquors Next TO follow was the
mode Of calling those caterers ''restau-
demonstrations" which title was writ
ten upon their licenses. Among the most
celebrated OF these establishments was
that OF Legaque, in the Tuileries, where
the notorious members of the Mountain"
met nightly Here Marat, St. Just,
Robespierre, LepelletieF, and other pow
erfuI leaders OF an agitated country pre-
pared their motions and discussed the
Convention" In those days restaurants
were more like political clubs.
During the revolution, which ruined the
grtatest families OF France. their famous
chefs were set adrift. Many OF them
opened restaurants, and the best known
among them. perhaps. was Besuvilliers.
from the establishment of the Prince de
Condo. He 1t was who inaugurated the
service known to this day as "a la
carte" One Of the most noted spots OF
Paris under the empire was the corner
where the Cafe Anglais was erected.
/ Here was the rendezvous OF dramatists,
/ authors, and the most brilliant society
4 leaders under the second empire and the
/ first years OF the present republic This
/ cafe was 10 have been torn down last
4 spring. but sentiment prevailed against
/ Housmannio ideals OF civic beauty.
/ The founder OF the Cafe Anglais, Del
l homme, was a fine connoisseur Of wines
/ Covering the four walls Of his cellar were
( iron pigeonhoies containing wines OF
all colors, countries. and epochs, and ar.
ranged 20 a perfect system of his own
I Century-old cognac from the cellars OF
/ Barras Of Luxembourg. and the wines Of
! Constance that were TO have been served
4 10 Marie ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS with IN,
royal seal afiiXed-were among the choict
/ brands OF Delhommes collection.
At one OF his celebrated banquets, !n-
vitatiOns 10 which were as much coveted
I as presentations at court are nowadays
/ Delhomme addressed his guests as fol
/ lows; 'AIessieurs, you are about 10 par.
take of a soup that is absolutely new
and specially prepared for you" Sud
denly a door opened and the maitT'
! a lAttCA N1llEEtuf Adtktu Bt three MdlACfi
| in evening dress. The first carried al
enormous silver soup tureen, the second
( a silver platter on which rep0sed IN,
ladle. and the third carried a silvel
/ basket OF golden brown rolls, Hot plates
were substituted for the cold ones AM
filed by the grandly eeremoni0us maitr,
with the new creation. Besides the in
evitable gurgling OF the FrenchmeI
when eating soup. nothing was heard 70
moment but the elinking of spoons
and signs Of satisfaction Suddenly
Russian prince shrieked colossal" There
| upon these arst-nighters clamored 70
the author" Duglere. the head cook
was pushed In and deluged with praise
The name Of the chef d'oeuvre wa
germiny why germiny2" some on
asked. II call it germiny." replied Du
glere, because that is the name Of III
former governor OF the Bank OF France
and one Of our oldest patrons
/ No greater fame could befall the finan
cier than 10 have a soup perpetuate hi
name And I may add that both Dumas
hls and Alfred de Musset attended thi
debut Of germiny.
The Laperouse. on the Quay St Angus
tine. me into International prominence
some ten years ago by its being the sceni
OF a mysterious disappearance. A finan
cier named Boulaine had been arrested
for swindle involving million Durinl
his trial he was escorted daily from III,
prison to the court by a strong guard
On their return from court Boulaine
Joined by his guards. usually visite'
Laperouse for a midday dinner, In which
IN
/ served. accompanied by rare old wines
After few days OF Laperouse dinners
| the careful guardianship relaxed unit
Y B0ulaine completely had won their conf
dence. Finally during an exceptions
feast. special attention having been pan,
to the wine list, and amid the laughter
occasioned by the latest boulevard story
BOuiaine excused himself for a moment
a moment that has lasted up TO to-day.
Not many years ago when the lat
King Edward, with a few intimati
friends. was dining al the Voisin. wAos,
ultra-epieurean cuisine is the 10Y OF per
feet gourmands Chat diminutive bit OF
place In the Rue CambOn), he was 81
struck by the esotericism Of the cuisin,
that he At once engaged the chef and tool
him TO Buckingham Palace.
There are more than 1000 restaurants Il
Paris to-day This does not includ
cafes. the brasseries whose speciality !
beer and where one can order onion soup
ham. or sauerkraut. nor the creameries
where one can have a little dairy lur Ell
The popular "bouillen" restaurants wher
soup is cents. meats from Il to Is cent
a plate, and q small bottle of wine
cents. We're started in 1866 by a butche
named DuvaL There are twenty OF thes
in Paris. and all are doing well.
The restaurants alone buy e 900 sheen