The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

"N o CONTRAST these two gar
ments is TO take various points
into our consideration. 1t may
no longer be asserted. in the
very face Of whole line of exquisite
shirtwaists and blouses, that the
separate waist is thing OF the past.
1t is very present garment, II we
may judge by the influx of new neck
wear intended to accompany it.
We have therefore arrived az
point in the road to the dressmaker's
where we stop to consider which
form of dress TO adopt for particular
reasons of our own and not because
the shirtwaist or the one-piece frock
will be exclusively worn.
We are highly likely to DECIDE upon
one or the other. and not upon mix
ture of the two for reasons OF con-
venience. Should we provide our
selves with one-piece frocks, there
will be no skirts with which to wear
the shirtwaist. On the other hand.
once having got a line of shirt
waists. their collars. jabots. etc. and
their necessary separate skirts and
coats, where. says economical wo-
man, is the money or the time for
the one-piece frock? They seem to
be two separate and distinct methods
of clothing womankind.
The one-piece frock. if adopted. In
wolves its full quota of lace or en-
broidered guimpes. and these by no
means help out the shirtwaist situa-
tion.
Now. which viii you? At first
thought we are drawn TO the shirt
waist as a less expensive solution of
the dress problem; and then looms up
the laundry bill, not for the shirt
waists alone. but for the frivolous
neck arrangements; and next comes
to mind the wornout yoke section
that so soon confronts all wearers Of
the turn-dOwn collar; and immedi-
ately there follows that awful ques-
ton of the skirt. If it be worsted, We
consider the good coat belonging to it
which is growing passe while 1t hangs
and while we tramp abroad daily in
its fast-wearing skirt: If it be linen.
there's the wrinkle OF it, and II IL be
silk, it cannot by any turn or twist
of the imagination be called correct
dressing.
On the whole. there IS less argument
against the linen skirt than against
the others, and the fresh white blouse.
with its touch of color matching the
linen suit-the coat of which you VIII
carry so that it fades as much as the
skirts altogether to the liking OF
many a stylish woman notwithstand-
ing the aforesaid disadvantages.
he frOpk2 A huSi-
ness venture it is straight economy.
Dark pOngee or medium-cOlored pongee,
which will probably require a cleaning
but not frequent washings. will save
enough laundry bills to pay Tor the silk
over and again.
The ever-ready dress Is not to be
scorned. In linen. too. it is no more
crushable than the skirt we have sane
toned. Pressing at home on the wrong
side. or under cloth. will bring it into
very fair shape.
As to neeks, the cleanliness OF the
summer silk frock lies in it's guimpe and
sleeves of washable lace. net. embroid-
ery or linen Heavy. clumsy lace is an
economy, as is Irish lace. in the long
run; this last provided 1t be laundered
persistently at home.
The guimpe will wear great deal
longer than the neck portion OF cot
ton or linen shirtwaist. because there
IS no stifr collar to cut it.
Very little of some dainty material
will serve for the guimpe and cuffs.
which are mounted on plain wash net.
which is far cooler for midsummer than
batiste or lawn.