Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-05-21

for the pongee-or foulard afternoon dress.
On the wide sleeves Of the peasant blouseS
the pleated frill is set upward at the top
OF a two-inch cuff, hut in sleeves coming
below the elbow the frill falls from the
edge.
Women who do not look well in neck
fril and are wise enough to resist the
temptation of the fascinating things are
wearing high stocks Of all-over net or
valenciennes. with entire deux of cluny.
Such stocks are built on the very shallow
yokes which show above the roundabout
blouses and bodiees. ard though the stock
itself is sheer and delicate, 1t is most
carefully featherboned. or built over one
of the fitted featherbone foundations of
chiffon in order to preserve its faultess
tr.mness on the neck.
The straight jabots trimmed with Irish
crochet are not smart as last season.
the 1910 jahots running fluffily all the way
down the front OF the bodice and being
made preferably Of creamy lace insertion.
| The inner edge Of the insertion is gath
cred to q narrow center strip of cluny
entire deUX, ard there are two strips. each
At least two yards long. gathered to the
half-yard strip of cluny to insure the
proper fluffy effect. At the top OF the lace
jabot is set a tiny. pert bow of velvet or
of satin matching the dress material
This year the belt dominates the dress
taking heart Of grace after a twelve
month of lean days. There is something
delightfully."- chic about the little summer
silk dress with a snappy patent leather
belt about the waist; but the idea Is
really not harmonious and the fad will
not last long. Every woman, however.
may take advantage OF It while 1t lasts,
seeing to it that the dressmaker pro-
vides regulation belts or girdles in con-
! c$x-la for HOY or
The gay patent leather belts with their
scarlet and gilt trimmings are not at all
expensive and when the vogue has passed
may be thrown aside with no regrets.
| Linen suits and handsome coats OF
serge and mohair are alike belted when
! built in the Russian tunic style; and one
sees the inevitable patent leather belt
even on formal costumes with tun1cs or
chiffon. This last, however, does seem
like going bit too far in the belt &c
cent-icity.
These new patent leather belts are OF
soft, plant leather that cling to the fig
| ure. Suede belts are in good taste. and
! some of the dark suede belts with cover
ed oblong buckles and no metal appear
| ing except, in the dull gilt eyelets are
extremely smart-and a wiser choice for
the large-waisted woman than the shiny
patent leather belt that always adds two
inches to the waist measurement. Some
Of the new buckles have a plain center
for the wearer's monogram.
4 4
| Nothing can so mar a pretty new cos
tune as an antiquated handbag, shabby
/ as to leather and out of date as to shape.
/ 1t pays to put Ave or six dollars each
season in one really smart handbag of
good leather which will keep it's good
looks to the last minute of use and give
! real tone and character to the whole
costume.
With tailored suits seal. saff1an and
calf handbags are carried, and black
polished leather called vachette-like
! patent leather except that 1t is slightly
! ribbeds and has less gloss. These hand
| bags are rather large and square in
| shape with frame of dull gilt or silver
and leather strap handles. The Innings
! are of colored leather or shirred silk, and
there are pockets to hold bill book. coin
| purge. memo pad, mirror and vanity be-
| longings
Some Of these leather bags have little
ROSTERS on the frame. in etched or ham,
mered effect-according to the last sar
| torial freak Of frenZied fashion. Usually,
! also. the owners initials are added. very
small single initials being purchased and
attached to the leather quite near the
! top of the bag in the center. This is
much smarter just now than the man.
| of the bag.
With dressy frocks the chatelaine bag
on long cord handles is the ultra chic
notion. Usually the bag is of black vel
vet in a round pouch shape. These dainty
bags are just large enough to carry COM
!, fortably ones purse, pocket handkerchief
and half dozen vanity and other trinkets.
| The Frenchwoman's bag invariably car
ries her memorandum pad. pencil and
small betting book for the races.
| There is set of ethics for wells. though
| women do not seem to realize it. One
sees. the dressy white lace veil draped
over little tailored morning hats. and
the mesh veil which should be reserved
| for the tailored hat pulled over immense
picture hats that call aloud for graceful
lace draperies.
| The octagon mesh is the thing sartori-
| ally, at the moment. Dots are not near
| Iy as smart as these plain mesh effects,
which should be selected in all silk
patterns of good quality, else they will
soon pull out Of shape and lose their
smartness. In some of the octagon veil
| ings there are Chantilly patterns in
leaf and other conventional effects which
| give a queer, shadowy effect on the face.
!! Even small Chandeliers are shown in