davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

assuring the same tint until the work
is completed In making large pieces,
like sets of portieres, this fact will be
appreciated, as the stenclllng may be
done at ones leisure, with the certain
ty that the color will be the same
throughout, avoiding the greatest draw
back in the use of oil colors. 1t is only
fair to the manufacturers of the dyes,
as we'll as to oneself, to follow the di-
rections that accompany the dyes. If
cotton cloth is used, get the dyes for
cotton, in order that the result may be
satisfactory. The stiff bristle brushes of
various sizes are the kind to use, and
have a different brush for each color !;
also have separate saucers into which
the colors are to be poured.
Stretch and pin the material securely
to table or large board, and, unless
it is heavy goods, it will be best to have
blotting paper under it, in order to alb
sorb any extra moisture and prevent it
from spreading beyond the outlines of
the stencil design. Secure the stencil
by driving pins in, tack-fashion, at the
corners, and be certain it is straight and
in correct position. Drive pins at any
other points of either the ties" or the
outline, where it seems necessary, in
VI 4t4 u ILIdhC II ilC Hat anu CIOSc 10 t4lS
cloth. Have piece of muslin, on which
to try the brushes to see that they are
charged with the right amount of dye.
They must be rubbed almost dry before
putting them on the design. Hold the
brush upright and brush back and forth
with 4 firm, steady stroke. In the
thistle design the leaves and the long
central stem are done in green, the calyx
OF the thistle in light brown and the tops
in pale purple.
In the pair of sash curtains shown,
the stencil is a conventionaiized design
| of violets, done on china silk, and the
effect IS very dainty. The violets may
be in the natural color or in pink, blue
or any other delicate shade in keeping
with the general tone of the room; the
leaves and stems, Of course, are green.
The portiere is made of poDgee and
the design Of reeds and dragon-fies in
dull green and blue is most attractive.
This is repeat" design, the stencil be-
ing laid on to form a single line OF the
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

knowledge of drawing, and good taste in
the selection of colors is necessary in
carrying it out. There is practically an
unlimited field for its utilization; hand
some portieres, sofa pillows, screens,
table covers and curtains can be made at
a cost that is governed entirely by the
foundation material, and as some of the
most effective have been made of bur-
lap, denim, unbleached muslin and fine
cheesecloth, it becomes apparent that the
cost may be kept very low. The stem
cling may be equally we'll done, how
ever, on velour, silk, chiffon or other
high-priced material.
The principal difficulty that confronts
the amateur worker is in procuring the
stencils. Until some clever person, with
genius for experimenting, tried STEM
Cling on cloth, the only use of orna-
mental stencils was by painters, to STEM
Gil frieze or panel on a painted or cal
eimined wall or ceiling. This decoration
has so grown in favor that, oddly, it has
reduced the demand for the ready-cut
stencils, carried by the paint supply
shops; each decorator wants to use only
original designs, that are exclusively his
own. Tinted walls, rather than paper-
Cd, are preferred by many housekeep-
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

mixing to tint" is unnecessary. The
manufacturers of the prepared tints sell,
for the convenience of their patrons,
cut stencils, to be used in applying the
contrasting design, but the girl who can
produce her own stencils is absolutely
independent, besides being able to give
complete originality to her work
The principal thing to bear in mind
in drawing the design is to adapt the
motif to the article to be decorated.
The first stenciled article illustrated is a
table-runner, the ends of which are
decorated with conventionalized spray
of thistles The material is Russian
crash, that may be bought in the towel
ing department of any of the large
stores; the soft, neutral gray color en-
dears it TO the artistic eye, and the fact
of its low price is rarely counted
against it. The design is planned to
have breadth rather than height. in or
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10
NEW MODELS
HARD TO MAKE
No Easy Task for Home Dress
maker to Get Artistic Lines
in Latest Draperies

tn ARLY spring modes this year
may, in general, be divided into
~ two classes. There is, the BIZ
za-re gown, eccentric almost to
the point of actual freakishness-in
fact, more than one model shown is
thoroughly freakish. In the other class
are toilettes of elegant simplicity, of
an English severity, the chief beauty of
which is their exquisite gracefulness of
line.
The latter afford a formidable prob
lem for the home-dressmaker. Unless
she understands the artistic relative
value of line and the dangerous COM
plexity of the task of draping a thing
to appear simple, she had better adhere
to very plain models, of which excel
lently fitting patterns can be obtained.
No pattern can give any assistance
in draping, as the goods have to fall
spontaneously without being tackled to
the lining.
Freakish Specimens
As examples of the ultra-bizarre, a
couple of costumes I saw on Broadway
recently may serve as awful warnings
of the extremes to which some design
ers have gone. One was a costume of
loose-woven material, the skirt being
belted in about the ankles by broad
band, finished on either side of the
front with metal buttons. This betting
seemed to make walking tour de force
and sitting down gymnastic feat. The
other was gown of crepe de Chine.
The hapless wearer's legs were bound
in sash draperies wound round and
round the skirt, being continuation of
the shoulder and waist draperies of the
corsage.
The gowns, however, that women of
good taste are wearing reflect in their
way the return to the classics that is
shown in our art. 1t would seem as if
the revolution that has taken place in
the dance, or rather the reversion to
Greek models, was having an entirely
salutary effect on our clothes. The
really pretty costumes have all the beau-
ty of line and the loose draperies of
ancient Greece bat-the classic belle of
Athens has come halfway to meet our
modern, smartly-dressed women. The
result is that Greek lines and draperies
have been adapted cleverly, appropriately
and most decoratively to I'm de steele
ways and notwithstanding needs. Be-
tween them the Greek beauty and the
Partisan belle have evolved the most
charming, simple and becoming gowns
we have had for century, and this
ose-ftting comfort is no small item
in their favor. Withal, they do not lose
a whit of the latter-day smartness neces-
sary for formal conventional occasions.
The New Color
For street wear, corduroys, woolens,
silks, cottons and linens will be the
textures employed, and even some fig
ured velyets for spring toilets. Mate
rials will be, for the most part, loose
and rough, with a tendency to large
mesh.
AS for colors, the very latest thing
from Paris is blue that is almost black,
the better qualities having a luster of
blue steel. The French call it raven
blue ("bleu corbeau"). 1t is frequently
combined with black satin to bring out
the blue in its texture.
Besides this new shade, the very
smartest thing is all white or all black.
Early in the fall Paris set this vogue
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

for the black suit in cloth or velvet.
Since then it has been growing in popu
larity. For a blonde, black and gold
form the most dangerously fascinating
combination. For restaurant gown,
mantle of black net, lined with old-gold
and edged with sable, covers a soft,
lightweight black velvet gown, the
bodice of which is of silk and lace, half
concealing the CLINT of gold that is made
into tiny roses nesting beneath the lace
The hat is one of the new variety of
Haunting black lace, trimmed with a
single large black rose of silk and vel
vet, with gold center, thus completing
this wicked-looking costume, the dark
ling shadows of which would delight the
eye of an artist.
Blues, from soft Wedgwood satin of
simple, silvery beauty, straight through
the ganut to a deep, brilliant Royal
blue yelled in black, make up some
restaurant wear.
Greens in every conceivable shade and
combination of tone are much in evil
dence for those who care for color.
Costumes of All White
The costume of all white was one of
the surprises of midwinter. 1t was
taken up rather hesitatingly at first, but
now it is accepted as one of the chic
things of the year.
Such gowns are spoken of as white,
but in reality they are cream for after
noon wear. 1t is only for evening toll
cites that pure white is used.
AS for trimmings, the smartest street
clothes are severely plain, without a
superhuous button or stitching. Draped
models have landings, frogs and braid
ings. For buttons, cut steel and jet are
the faYorites.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10
THE HEIGHTS OF EVERYWHERE

By GERTRUDE B. HAMILTON.
Could sing song, out to the world,
To bring tears to the hearts of men;
Could | make merry laughing tale
Flow, ripping from my pen;
1 would sing, | would write, and send
my heart,
AS brook to the river runs,
Not where the plenty of love abides;
l would sing to the lonely ones.
I would sing to lives that know not the
smile
OF eyes that understand
I would write to hearts that weep the
while.
For the help of comrade hand.
Out to the heights of everywhere,
Had l song at command,
I would send my laughter, smiles and
tears,
= To the jewellers of Lonely Land
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

sign must be pressed. to set the colors;
this is most satisfactorily and per-
nanently done by steaming. Have a
strip or square of clean white muslin or
wooden goods, preferably the latter, wet
it and wiring it out as dry as possible;
lay the stenciled work right side up on
an ironing blanket that is covered by a
clean cloth, and lay over it the damp
cloth, and over this dry cloth. Press
with hot iron, and the steam will set
the color so the article may be laund-
cred, as previously described, without
fear of the dyes washing out.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10
PREPARED DYES ARE MOST
PRACTICAL MEDIUM TO USE
Will Not Wash Out, Are Easy to Prepare, and Color
Will Be Uniform

motifs at the side Of the portiere, the
top of each almost meeting the lower
edge of the one above it. Along the
bottom the motifs are placed side by
side. The stenciling should be begun
at the lower corner
After the color is all laid in and the
work is practically committed the de-
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10
ARTISTIC CURTAINS MADE
CHEAPLY BY STENCILING
Burap Denim and Cheesecoh be turned into Handsome
Interior Decorations at Small Cost

ers, both for hygienic reasons and be-
cause of the individual treatment that
may be given them. Wall tinting, while
usually done by men, is quite within the
ability of the woman of average
strength, and with the ready-prepared
colors. the fashioned. discouraging
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

chosen for their clearly-defned types, as
most of the seasons costumes are either
simplifed or elaborated from these
fundamental lines.
The Russian blouse, in innumerable
styles, is the most popular for street
and general wear. One of these is
shown in the center picture. The coats
are made either hip or knee length, hip
length being the favorite, the skirts in
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

of ornamentation, its
application to fabrics
presents more or less
of novelty, and gives
it a position of i'm
portance in decorative
art. While the actual
work is mechanical,
the preparation of the
designs ren1Iires a
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

up the idea introduced without much
success in the winter of cutting sleeves
in one with the garment, thus obviating
the seam on the shoulder and around
the arm. At first it was confined to
evening wraps, but now this novelty is
employed in toilettes for street wear.
The Russian Blouse
The gowns in the illustrations are
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

Skunk, fox and fisher" furs are used
now even as borders for diaphanous
materials in evening gowns, as we'll as
for garments of cloth and velvet One
street costume of cream broadcloth 1
saw was made in Russian effect, the
high neck, shield front and the edge of
the three-quarter length being bordered
with skunk
There is a decided tendency to take
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

with which everyone is familiar. and
that need only to be dissolved in a little
hot water to make them ready for use,
By dissolving a certain amount at one
time and bottling it for future use, one
may be sure of having always the same
color; another advantage is that two or
more colors may be mixed, after being
dissolved, in the proportions to give a
desired shade. and this may be bottled,
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

some of the most fashionable models
being made on a yoke, with trailing
hens The one illustrated is of black
broadcloth, trimmed with braid. The
coat is slightly bloused all around over
the close-ftting belt. The belts are
greatly elaborated upon, being richly
embroidered and ornamented with large
mother-of-pearl buttons, which are also
used in trimming the coats. With them
are worn blouses the color of the suit,
usually of diaphanous material or the
new striped crepe. Long stoles of
| shirred black net or velvet and lined
| with fur are worn with these suits
| They may reach to either the hem of
the dress or the hem of the coat, and
are worn alone or with the new velvet
muffs.
An Ornate Gown
While severe and simple costumes will
be in the majority this year, there is
always a certain number of women who
cannot wear the plain, mannish tailor
made. In fact, their physique and
| features demand something more orna-
mented. For such women the model to
the left of the Russian blouse is adapted,
its excellent lines being relieved with a
shawl collar of velvet and Oriental en-
| broidery and embellished with stitchings
which are here brought out in detail
The material is of pony skin chestnut
pongee, collar and cuffs of black velvet,
the buttons of Oriental enamel match
ing the embroidery which is of deeper
shade of brown.
The third suit for street wear, shown
in the picture underneath, is heavily
twilled mustard-colored serge. The
skirt depicts one of the newest ideas
in a plated founce that is gradu-
! ated from the front panel across the
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

A THOUGH
IA stenciling is
"a by no means
- - a new form
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-05-10

The gowns in the illustrations are
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22
Will ATTRIBUTED
TO WOMAN'S WILES
WlleS Those of Samuel Vests
Wife, but Niece Files
Contest

That the will of her uncle. Samuel M
west, an importer and shipping man
who died August 81. 1909, was made
when he was under the domination of
young. crafty and designing woman ,,
was the allegation made by his niece.
MRS. +. L. Nee, in a suit contestin ..
the VIII, filed yesterday
BY the will West left one-ha1f of t;s
estate, valued at $4,000. to his wife
and the other half to his daugbtar
caroline West, and friend. Mrs I'll,
Ian Jane Fowler. The suit sets ou+
that West was 80 years of age and az
the time of drawing up his will was
IN an enfeebled condition. The charge
is that his wife. who was as veaTs
younger. used the 'wheedIinp arts
wiles, snares and hypnotic domination
OF young, crafty and designing
woman over his enfeebled and shat
tered mind"
The claim is made by Mrs. Nee that
the deceased at the time was in such
poor mental condition that he did NOT
know he was making a will She aslrs
10 have ii set aside and the estate dis
tributed according to law among the
various heirs. The will was filed for
probate September %, 1909. and the
widow and Mrs. Fowler appointed as
executives.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22
CROCKER'S CANCER
REQUEST DISPUTED
Stepchildren Seek Injunction to
Prevent Columbia College
From Obtaining Million

NEW YORK, Sept 21.-The right of
Columbia college TO property worth ap-
proximately sl.OOO,0O0 bequeathed to it
Tor a cancer research fund by the late
George Crocker. the California million
aire, was attacked today when Crock
er's stepchildren applied to the supreme
court for an injunction to prevent the
executors of the millionaire's will from
selling the property or leasing it pend
ing the determination of an action
brought TO establish their right to the
property.
In his viii Croker ordered the sale
Of a house on East Sixty-fourth street.
and the money thus realized to be
turned over to Columbia college for q
cancer research fund. Alexander FL.
Rutherford, Alice II. ErVing and Ella
Rutherford Kearney, Croeker's step
children, now sue Nelson c. Threll.
John Hays Hammond an Edgar ]. Brad
Icy. as Crocker's executors, for posses
sion Of the house in question and its
contents on the ground that Crocker Sc
cured the deed from them under fraud
ulent and undue influence and under
the promise of a consideration which
Was never paid 10 them.
In Crocker's testament there was no
mention of his stepchildren. The court
reserved decision.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22

The wedding OF Miss
Margaret Buchanan and
Major James Wadsworth
Furlow took place yes
terday at high noon. and
congratulations were
wired TO the Buchanan
residence in Americus,
Ga, from the many
friends of the couple in
this city. Major Fur
low is one of the most
popular officers in the
service set, and while
he was stationed with
the Twelfth infantry
was in evidence at the
dancing parties in town.
He is a splendid horse
man and was host at a
series of riding parties
when the fad was at its
height. Major Furlow
received his promotion
lately and will be sent
TO the . Philippines for
duty with the scouts.
The wedding took place
Yesterday in the First
Presbyterian church in
Americus and there was
an informal reception
afterward at the home
of the brides mother,
Mrs. Nancy Buchanan.
The bride is a member
of one of the prominent
southern families and is
a social favorite. The
couple will pass their
honeymoon travelling in
the east, but are ex-
pected to be in this city
later in the month for a
brief visit en- route to
the Philippines.
Mr.. and Mrs. Alec
Field, who have been in
Mill Valley at their
country home during the
summer. have come to
town for the season and
have taken a house at
Pacific avenue and Brod-
erick street for the
winter. Mrs. Field is
q favorite in the young
married set and will be
remembered at Miss
Aimee Brunswig of Los
Angeles before her we'd
ding less than a year
ago in the southern
city. After their return
from their honeymoon
the Fields made their
home in Mill Valley and
their friends here are
pleased that they have
decided to come to this
city.
Mrs. Gertrude Ather-
ton has been the guest
of Mrs. Frank S. John
son in San Rafael for
several days. but re-
turned to town yester-
day.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22

MALE HELP WANTED
Wanted able bodied men for the u. s. Ma
rine Corps, between the ages Of 10 and 35
Must be native born or have first papers
Monthly pay SIS to 500. Additional compen-
sation possible. Food, clothing, quarters and
medical attendance free. After 30 years sery
lowances. Services on board ship and ashore
in all parts OF the world. Apply at u. s. Ma
rine Corps Recruiting Office. 95 Market St. San
Francisco. Cal.
MEN wanted; age 10 to 35; for fremen 500
monthly and brakemen $50, on nearby rail-
roads; experience unnecessary; no strike; pro
motion to engineers, conductors; railway en-
ploying headquarters; over 500 men sent to
positions monthly; state age; send stamp
Railway Association. care Call office
wANTED-Man teacher for boys private school !:
southern California; mathematics and English.
salary $500 and board: no certificate required
McNEIII TEACHERS AGENCY Center and
oxford sts.. Berkeley.
HEAD butler for steady place in city. $6o Sec
ond butler steady place, S45; dish washer. SIS
week. board but no room: stableman for
gentieman's household. $50 and room Miss
PLTNKETT 1896 Suffer- ST cor Webster
ERRAND Roy: good wages r. MOHR g
SONS, Jewelers. building, 15o Post st.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22

of boards greatly underesmated Some do
consider ALL believing such hue decorations still exist
comparatively civilized be relics of babarsm This
Boards and mustache have recently been receiving the
thoughtful military authorities and Eleanor Gyn
Mrs Gyn who deplored the smooth faces OF American
She said that they all looked alike and she waed of their
distinguishing
While Mrs Gyms remarks applied effects Aus
the subject ponderously He believes boards
be safeguards health Nature intended wear them si the
declares
The
concluding will
o
Mdersho Only
the horizontal spikes that
arbitrary rule which much discussed
gethe Qucs of n
andN
Is
in
delightfully."-
disregard OF displayed by
nKvOuld drather 1sk
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22

DH1FeN ELI AF-ATITFIEsNIS
TREEHAVEN APARTMENTS
Opened Sept 1st; most attractive and com
plete apartment house across the BAY. ever
modern Improvement and convenience. snnerh
view from roof garden: furnished or unfur
nished apartments 2 to 4 rooms. sleeDins
from Euclid av earIine
TREEHAvEN. RIDGE ROAD. BERKELEY.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22
FEMALE HELP wANTED-continued d
statesmen and SOLICITORS WANTED
WANTED.

Two reliable stock salesmen: give age, ex-
perience and references; important opportunity
for men OF ability. Box 491. Call office.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-22

Mr.. and Mrs. z. D.
Tenney, accompanied by
their daughter. Miss
Winelmina Tenney, will
leave next Wednesday
for their home in Homo
lulu, after a visit of
several weeks at the
Fairmont. Miss Tenney
has been entertained by
the girls of the younger
contingent during her
sojourn here, and the
days preceding her de-
parture for her home in
the islands will be
marked by several in
formal farewell parties.
The debutante set is
having a round of fare
well teas and luncE cons
of very Informal pro-
portions in compliment
TO Miss AMY ScovifIa.
who has been visiting
here from New York.
The young visitor will
leave in a day or two
for her home in the cast
after a visit of several
weeks with Miss Miriam
McNear at the country
residence of the latter
in Petaluma and in
town.
Mrs. Walter Mead will
entertain at a charity
tea TO be given next Sat
urday afternoon at her
home, 1898 Vallejo
street, and several hun
dred guests are expected
between the hours of 3
and 6 at the hospitable
home. The affair is a
benefit for the depend
ent children under the
protection of the Asso-
ciated Charities and a
large sum will be real
lied probably for these
helpless little ones who
are being boarded by
charitable people.
Robert Sharon and
Neill Wilson will leave
early next week for the
east, where they are go
ing to attend Yale and
will be away for several
months. The younger
set on both sides of the
bay have been enter
tanning for them. at
farewell dinners.
Miss Edith Lowe, the
attractive fiancee of
Hans Wollmann, has
been the feted guest at
several recent dinner
and luncheon parties.
both in town and in
Sausalito, where she re-
sides with her parents,
Mr.. and Mrs. ]. B. Lowe.