Daily Arizona silver belt., 1910-01-23
Pads and Fashions
By Florence Fairbanks

NEW YORK, January 22.-Lady Fashion has once more proved her whim, sicahty by making leap and landing in Russia. A perfect craze for things Russian seems to have broken out and Russian styles predominate to start. ling degree in wOmen's fashions. Furs, volvets, barharic jewels, bold embroider- ieS and other characteristic Russian trimmings and OrnamentatiOns predom- mate. and Tolstoi smOcKs, czarevitch tu- nics, COsSack hats towering aloft and mujik turbans enswathing the ears are features of midwinter styles.
 The most notable feature of this Rus sian dress mode is the tunic. Every where the tunic predominates, It is of chiffon, of cloth of gold or silver, of iotted or beaded gauge, OI net, O. satin and falls over frocks of every imagin- able material. Most of the evening cos tunes at the opera and in the theater show tunics of one sort or another, dozens of variations being effected by the dressmakerS in the long, clinging tunic lines.
 One of the most striking dress fea lures of the present season in New York is the velvet blouse bordered all around with fur and belteu at the waist line According to Russian notions tunic, helted in at the waist, becomes a blouse, no matter what its length. Some of the Russian hlOuses fall quite to the knees; others extend only a few inches below the belt; but below the belt they al ways dO extend, for the bodice and skirt combination has no place in Russian consideration.
 The velvet blOuses with fur borders so fashionable just now are supposed to initiate the peasant smOck affected by TOlst6i and fasten down one side of the front in the Russian fashion, with baggv lines and broad shoulders extending in to the sleeves. The fur border goes all around the bottom and runs up the edge of the side fastening and around the wrists of the E.oeves and is usually the fashionable skunk. These blOuses may or may not be worn over velvet skirts, but the skirt, of whatever mater. ial, IS always in the same color as the velvet blouse coat. Sometimes these hlOuseS are worn over little afternoon tea frOCkS of cashmere do soie or peTmO stuff. Chiffon blOuses or hnics in the style of those worn by the little cZarc- witch, Alexis, are worn over wool and permo dresses, though, of course. these chiffon affairs do not serve as coats. as do the velvet blouses They are cut in true Russian style, with sleeves all in one with the body of the garment and no arm seams. The neck is cut out in square, or straight across from shOul- der to shoulder in the Russian fashion. and IS finished with a band of Russian embroidery which continues down the side fastening A belt of the embroid- cry combined with leather gives snap py finish to the czarevitch tunic.
 Directly traceable to Russian infiu- ence is the abbreviated "skating cos tume' type of dress seen now on the streets. The jaunty short skirts, bor- dered with fur, are American adapta- tions of skating costumes worn on the Neva during the gay St. Petersburg winter season. Usually these Russian skating suits are of velvet and the fu, border IS of skunk. A huge huff and turban of fur complete this fetching winter costume. It is scarcely neces sary to remark that this style of cos tune IS appropriate and becoming only to youn. and girlish figures and should be avoided by all elderly women, espe. clally these of generous proportions
 The Russian dress is usually of slight Iy lowered neck line and abbreviated sleeve, showing from beneath "oa: trasting yoke and cuff, which was orig. 38a'iy connected with the undersL ri. Ih some of the really exquisite models.