The Salt Lake herald-Republican. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1909-1918, 1910-03-13

ia OK I'll MIX OdEOOClN US
II ~ S1xjSN gerry into the cui-
II s9ESvyN rass of the middle
-, - .. ages and thence into
the courtly costumes
Louis the Fifteenth's time. Now her
capricious head has been turned by
military regalia, and though the sum-
mer months are approaching she is
donning the modified uniform OF the
Russian COssack, with complete ndlf-
ference to the fact that it is obviously
a winter effect. So the puzzled pur-
veyors to her ladyship's whims have
had to skirmish exceedingly to adapt
the style to spring and summer usage.
The result is an Infinite variety of
blouses and belted garments, but all
showing the unmistakable Russian IN
fuence, even to the trimmings of
broderie russo and the buckles and
clasps bearing the Russian eagles
head.
Conservative buyers in this country,
however, sound a warning note in the
declaration that the Russian models
will undoubtedly be favored in the
dressier suits and three-piece cos
tunes, but that the seven-eighths fit
ting tailored suits, twenty-six to thir-
ty-two inches in length, Will easily
hold their own. These will be made
with long roll and notched collars and
the ieft-side lap, approaching almost
TO blazer style when the roll collar
is emphasized. A novelty in these tai
lored garmens is the introduction of
lingerie effects. Pleated German va
lenciennes edging the collar and cuffs
adds that touch of lacy daintiness that
feminizes the most strictly tailored
suit
The developments of the Russian
blouse effect range from the simplici-
ty of the blouse coat brought into the
waist line with a patent leather belt,
to the satin coats that are shirred or
pleated into belts of gold braid or silk
embroidery. 1t is whispered in the in
ner circles of the Partisan mOdistes
that before the end of summer the re-
gretfully- relinquished Elton and bolero
will come into distinct favor again.
We have had the long coats for several
successive seasons now, and the pendu-
lum may naturally enough swing
from their length TO the abbreviation
of the Elton and bolero. The home
dressma1er will rejoice at this change,
for the simple style of the short coats
does not present the difficulties in
making-nor the eXpenditure-that the
longer garments do.
But there seems to be a law of COM
pensation in fashion as in other things.
the coat four yards are added TO the
skirt. A has the skinny, elingy skirt
of yesterday. Pleats are back again
in every delightful style OF frou-frOu.
The novelty in the seasons skirts is,
OF course, the tunic or half-draped eff
feet over a pleated hounce. The
apron tunic is shown in many Of the
ready-made models, hut since there
are no hip seams Whatever to allow
alterations, il is necessary to obtain a
perfect fit in the beginning, which is
not always ali easy matter. The side
pleated skirt, which proved so becom-
ing to most figures, has returned to
favor, as has also every variation
thereof-the plain panel alternating
with a pleated one, side pleats alter
mating with box pleats. shaped cores
combining pleats below the hip line.
Serge is undoubtedly the most popu-
lar fabric for the street suits, the ma
rine blue that was so much worn dur
ing the winter continuing In favor. So
if it be serge. one can make no mistake
in the selection of material for the
spring suit, since every weave from
the fine twill serge ts the fancy and
rough weaVes will be used Novelty
cheviots, particularly in the black and
white, or pepper-and-salt effect two
toned diagonal, basket cloths and mat
weaves Will be used in the more ex-
pensiye suits. The tendency is to-
ward the SOFT rough cloths, including
homespuns and worsteds. The pin
stripe serges II is expected will be
much worn, especially those with the
hair-line stripe of black. from one
half TO three-quarters Of an inch apart.