davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
Ribbon Work

PROBABLY the expense alone keeps
many women from taking up the
IL beautiful ribbon embroidery. This
is ideal work. however. for those who
need not consider expense and, too, for
those who make pin-money from their
embroidered articles. They make an
appeal to the paying public that less
elaborate fancy articles do not.
For the sake OF economy all OF the
ribbon from an eighth to an inch in
width should be got by the piece. More
of the extremely narrow widths will be
required. and it is economy in the long
run to lay in full supply Of the wanted
colOrs.
Corded silk and poplin are the, best
backgrounds for ribbon embroidery, and
all thinner silks should be basted first
upon an open-weave canvas to prevent
their pulling and drawing. All short
spaces may be crossed on the wrong
side in going from flower to flower. but
for longer distances the ribbon Is cut
and a fresh start made with small
knot. both to prevent unsightly drawing
and as an economy In ribbon.
That delightful pufred effect IN ths
blossoms will be destroyed If the ribbon
is drawn too tightly. and all attempts
at fastening ends should be left until
last, and the cut ends be pasted with
library paste to the wrong side to in
sure fairness of background.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
Daughters Dresses

a delicate lace yoke without any wear
ing quality.
Soutache and heavy cotton star braid
are effective upon linen. and the latest
fashion demands a touch of figured
foulard as tie and girdle. The four-in-
hand. Iooped through slots in the front
of the linen bodice. gives a good
chance for the touch OF ornamental
material of Persian, Indian or Egyp-
tan design.
Ginghams for the Young girl are as
good style this year as they have ever
been, and their outlines are most nor
nal. For instance, there is no I'M
necessary fulness in bodice, sleeve or
skirt, and the belt has dropped to the
usual line of the waist.
The panel has more or less disap-
peared, and in Paris the princess ef-
feet has vanished altogether
To remodel a last years princess
frock, have the panel in the front and
If need beat the back. also. But try
to wedge in a little extra fuIness on
each side of both panels at the back
and front of both bodice and skirt,
and grid this in with a belt at each
side. If there be no material to match.
the inset of wide insertion or OF all
over embroidery will supply some
width and help out the style so that
it be not too passe.
Pipings are most effective. and those
of striped materials cut biased and fold
ed. are most effectively used on plain
materials. To adorn the girlish gtng-
ham dress, there are plain ptpings LEI
In at every possible place
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
0ae Mv> Gwzaece
Centerpiece Borders

TIME bordering Of the centerpiece
seems to cause much difficulty to
- the inexperienced, and few sug-
gestions may be in order.
Richness is got by plenty of padding.
This is a running stitch applied in lay
ers to the number Of three Small seal
lops require one layer, medium scallops
two and large scallops or a broad,
straight edge three plentiful layers. The
scantily padded edge will not launder
well, but there is no just complaint
against the perfectly padded stitch on
the score Of wearing.
When using that special untwisted
cotton which comes for the more per-
feet buttOnholed edge, two strands
should be used instead OF one if the
wear is under consideration.
A question often raised suggests the
following: When the lines forming the
scalloped edge Of a centerpiece run on
and continue in to form the design, the
buttonholing stops at the exact point
where the actual edge ceases, and the
design is taken UP with satin stitch.
When using lace as an edge to any
linen fancy article, the lace is not fulled
lunless the object is to make a decided
article itself must absolutely be kept
firm and fiat and the lace be held
merely so easy as to lie comfortably in
place. In sewing. these stitches should
not be drawn taut, or the work will an
pear drawn when washed.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08

TACH season ushers In certain dis
n, tinctive marks that stamp its sim
-A-A plest frocks as belonging to the year
in question. Sometimes these differ
ences are 50 slight that an unframed
eye might pass the garment by as the
same old Bingham dress, but TO those
who know and to sweet sixteen her
self they take on a great deal of i'm
portance. these little changes, and each
little twist and turn of the styles gives
the frock a definite position.
Decided notes are readily found. but
some of the more obscure are scarcely
discernible. There is little change in
materials for young girls. there being
few new cottons and linens except
homespun and hopsacking. which are
made in both linen and cotton
That made of cotton has a burlap ap-
pearance and is not intended to be
laundered. Coat suits are made of it in
dark and medium shades, and with very
little fulness and few pleats because of
its weight. The linen is sold for 70 cents
yard, the cotton for % cents, and neces-
sarily the better of the two presents a
softer appearance in both color and tex
ture. Either one is worthy of polished
brass or steel buttons as a decoration
French linens hold their own as cos
tune and dress material. and Of all
the shades, rose, blue and yellow are
most in evidence for youthful dresses.
Garments made of firm materials
such as linen and its substitutes. usu-
ally are made over a model of sub
stantiaI style. and not suspended from
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
Use Discretion

VTTHEN trimming the figured ma
Ma terials of the season, even in
w simple tub dresses, do not be
beguiled into using figured embroidery
or lace upon the woven or printed
figured surfaces.
Remember. always. that striped or
plain surfaces will best decorate the
figured background. Bold motifs OF
lace may sometimes be used to good
effect upon a small set figure. but
the overlapping process usually means
little else than an excess, which is
never good.
Trimming should decorate. should
adorn. otherwise it Is OF no value: and
to best adorn the figured surface
will require the discretion OF the
maker and the eye Of an artist.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
Fancy Chemisettes
"HE chemisette continues one of I

TIME chemisette continues one of the
best spaces for decoration on the
evening gown, and will be neces-
sary all summer on the garden-party
or afternoon frocks. The Dutch neck,
whether it be square or round, fire.
Quently demands lace inset; all fichu
shoulder drapery admits Of the let-in
strip of lace across the back and front.
and the guimpe at times shows merely
as low-necked chemisette.
Whether it be fat strip of stuff or
be shirred upon a cord, whether it be
lace or plain net or sheer linen, it may
be decorated and by hand. In fact,
handwork on this most prominent part
OF the garment adds the exclusive touch
that makes the gown.
Here is a nice little secret for the eco
nomical: Cut out from old bobbinette
the fine motif of hand embroidery and
applique it upon the new net chemisette,
or, If it's surface is no longer perfect,
place it beneath the net, that its
beauty may be yelled; and in this last
disposition Of it. trace it round upon
the upper side with thread OF gold or
silver.
For the garment not INTENDED 10 De
laundered there are gold and silver
paint upon white Spanish lace-this for
a gray dress. 1t is put on in dabs just
by way OF effect, and a good one it will
give
Fine muslins are embroidered. as are
sheer linens, and the prettiest OF dot
ted net is touched with applique o. gold
or silver braid tied in knots at inter
walls, or of the finest Soutache tied in
knots This last is cut, and each Sepa-
rate knot is applied TO a spot in the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
Curious Materials

"HE introduction OF an odd bit OF
material upon very usual dress
& is one OF the new notes in dress
making. There is, for instance. red felt
on broadcloth-a bright flame red or an
English pink-the merest patch or strip
of 1t with a raw. cut edge as the one
spot of color on a shepherds plaid cos
tune trimmed with black satin.
Chamois with cut edges appears on
another, and strange as 1t may seem,
the dress on which it was used was a
lavender linen.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08

"HE nice little collection of hand
made medallions here shown rep
resents the work of homemak-
Ing. housekeeping woman with only odd
moments to spare and with very little
money to spend on frivols and frills.
1t is a well-known fact that great
quantity of hand crochet is done by the
women Of all countries. and has been
done for generations but 1t may not be
SO generally known that there Is now a
decided revival of this easily made lace,
some of which is beginning to take rank
with the product of the Irish lacemak-
ers.
Insertion, lace and medallions are
used, and much may be done with even
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
To Use India Print

II LUE and white India print cut into
X bias strips of varying width makes
an excellent trimming for child s
dress.
Here is something unique and yet
beautiful. that will not fade and Is by
no means too old-looking for a little girl.
India print is an altogether desirable
and durable stuff in color and quality,
and can be used on fine or coarse white
linen without the least danger of the
colors spreading into the white surface.
Buttons covered with the print will
add style. and then. too. the end of ma
terial you have left will do for band
round the dark blue or white straw hat.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08

the simplest little disks or wheels by
the incorporation Of them in the appro-
pirate garment.
The browning mistake made by the
persistent user of the medallion. whether
bought or homemade. is the insertion
of 1t in isolated spots, where 1t serves
not to decorate. but merely to disturb
the eye.
The smaller medallion and those of
flower shape are used successfully in
an allover embroidery pattern as in
serts in place of some embroidered
flower indicated on the stamped de-
sign. This allover work is done upon
handsome linen dresses and round the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08

edges Of ''between-mear' mats for the
dining table.
Another successful use for medallions,
large and small. is their insertion In a
continuous row round a linen tunic. A
straight hem edges the tunic, and
above it are let in the lace disks.
White ones are used upon white only.
For colored linens the medallions are
dipped or painted with stencil dive To
orlng them into harmony with the ma
terial
numerous are the designs presented
for the inexpensive homemade rna-lsI-
hon Of crocheted thread. but there still
are countless other patterns to b
evolved by the persistent worksr.
elther accidentally or by intention.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08
A Button Revival

6EEK out your old polished steel
buttons and bring them to the
~ front; they are an evidence of the
last style in costuming the lady beau
tiful They belong to the shepherds
plaid suit, to the navy blue serge or to
the mulberry linen.
Any shape will do; the ball button is
much sought for but there is also the
big fiat one the size of dime. a nickel
or quarter.
Use metal polish to restore them, and
give them rub with leather before you
put them on. The stores will yield up
nothing better than the button bag.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08

The scallop is simple. and requires the
usual padding before good buttonhol-
Ing may be accomplished. The daisy
Is here at its best. and the stems form
a more than usually pretty design for
one so simple and easy of accomplish
ment
You will work all Of the stems in out
line stitch. and If you are DESTROYS of
having them show effectively at a
distance. let me suggest doubled out
line process; one in which the stitches
ness.
In solid over-and-over stitch you will
carry out the petals and each half OF
the serrated leaves.
half Of each leaf. with solid for the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-05-08

other half If the desire be for a Frenchy
piece of work. The flower centers are
to be done in solid stitch or with a row
of French knots surrounding the solid
work.
White is best in selecting the ma
te-ials, but the pale yellow flower
centers may be used If green be chosen
for the leaves. In this event, the petals
Will remain white. as will the button
holed. scallops.
Doilies to Follow.
Next week two sizes of doilies will be
shown to match the centerpiece, and
with less work according to their les
SEEMING proportions.
BY the diagram OF the finished center
piece shown on the page you can get a
very adequate idea Of the finished piece
of work
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10

ROPER APPOINTED PosTMAsTER-wsshing
ton, Dec. 9.-John W. Roper today ap-
pointed postmaster at Butte Meadows. Butte
county, vice F. NJ Thatcher, resigned
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10

improper relations" replied she. They
may be improper from your point of
view. but I look upon them in diff
ferent light"
The attorneys for the defense made
1t evident today that one of their main
contentious will be that Lu Eta Smith
suffers from Authorizations and that
she sincerely believes things to be true
which do not exist, the logical Sc
quence being that on account OF this
she has wrongly accused Doctor Burke.
The admission was gained that two
or her sisters were insane and that she
suffered from physical ailments which
have affected her memory.
We have evidence to show" said
Leppo to the court, that she believed
sor and that he reciprocated her affec-
tons"
Despite the assertions of the attor-
neys her demeanor on the stand indi-
Gated anything but a weak mind. She
held herself we'll in check for the
greater part under grilling fire Of the
most embarrassing questions. Her love
for Doctor Burke was brought out by
questions regarding her visits to him.
asked
Because loved him.
DO you love him still?"
II knew in my heart that he did
not commit this act 1 do; otherwise
not"
MRS. BURKE AMAZED
The declaration brought from Mrs.
Burke. who was seated by her husband
the first sign she has shown since the
trial began. She spun around in her
chair, her mouth opened and she gazed
at Lu Eta Smith with the utmost SUR
prise and indignation. The reading of
the thesis occupied almost the entire
morning. Judge Seawell questioned Its
materiality, but on the attorneys for
the defense withdrawing all objections
to the paper he allowed it to be intro
duced. There was silence in the room
during the reading. AS the more start
ling phrases and views were read mem
bers of the audience would lift their
tened with rapt attention, holding one
hand behind his ear so as to catch
every word.
The manner IN which he had criss-
crossed convention, the arguments. rea-
soning and logic he had employed in
proving his points appeared to afford
him the greatest satisfaction. indicat-
ing with a slight inclination of his head
his approval of the words. Lu Eta
Smith bowed her head during the read
ing.
SAYS LAWYER Is IMPUDENT
During the morning session Miss
Smith was under cross examination and
testified in regard to her movements
and employments since she left the
home of her parents In Upper Lake,
Lake county, % years ago. She gave
her age as 40 and said that when IS
years old she went to Washington and
engaged in the millinery business, to-
gether with her sisters. Leaving this,
she went to work for a farmer and his
wife, and the fact of her having to tes-
tify to this fact made her extremely ir-
ritable.
"You are impudent," she said to At
torney Leppo.
Perhaps I am, madam" said the law
yer, but will you please answer the
question:
Il refuse" she said doggedly.
She was calmed by Judge Seawell
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10

and declared that for month she did
housework at the farm. At the ex-
piration of that time she said she went
to Pendleton, Ore, and, having at a
previous time studied stenography and
typewriting, became public Stenog-
rapher, working for the greater part
in the law offices of that town.
Did not the wife of one of the
lawyers for whom you worked make
some trouble as to the relations ex-
listing between you and her husband?'
No such thing ever happened" she
said emphatically. Her health failing
in Pendleton, she said she went to a
hospital in Portland and there decided
that she would take up the calling Of
a nurse. She said she studied for a
time and then became engaged as a
general nurse in Portland and later in
Oakland.
About 10 years ago her health again
failed and she went to the sanatorium
conducted by Doctor Burke. II went
there as a patient, she said, but
after had spent all the money 1 had
he consented that should stay on and
finish my treatments, the understand
should pay for the medical services by
work.
WORKED 10 YEARS FOR NOTHING
went 10 .WOTk April IL III year ;
ago and up to November did not re-
ceive any salary. Then 1 kept on
working as a regular employe, my
salary being $25 month and board"
Her cross examination will last some
time, the lawyers for the defense using
every point they can to break down
her testimony. The court frequently
checked them from going too far into
the woman's history.
Testimony of the most telling char
acter is expected to be developed by
the defense. The attorneys have stated
openly that they will introduce writ
ings and letters of Doctor Burke which
accepted with realization of the value
of 'honi soft qui NAL pense," will
put a different complexion on the mat
ter. 1t is expected that they will &C
into the dtails of the Fritsch visit
and lecture at the sanatoriun1, the
purpose being to prove that Miss Smith
as the disciple of a new cult, held
views even more radical than those o1
Doctor Burke on the question of sex
and family. Who the college professor
is that is implicated they refuse tc
give out.
He is" said Leppo. "one of the
most eminent men in the state
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10

Love is affinity one for another.
but on planes or grades. You and
are the absolute abandon of love
If we would allow it so.
Love is more than passion, but If
lives not without passion. II can
not live on passion alone. Passion
born of affinity Is divine. Passion
born of the brain or the body is
abortive = humanity abortive. Ma
ture says: Be utterly passionate
where there is affinity and then il
will be pure Human morality says:
You should not be passionate or
you can not be pure
What is love? There is no an
swer for such as need ask. Loves
only interpreters are loves exem-
plars, and to these definitions are
not necessary. You can feel love.
sense love, look love, smile love.
touch love, breathe love and can live
love-but you can never tell love.
Love is God and God is undefinable.
He simply is
Religion is device for measur-
ing how far men and women have
shut love out of their lives. Did
you ever hear of a Protestant rose.
a Jewish canary or a Catholic sun
beam? No more can you call sec
tartan any human whose heart is
sweet as the rose, whose message is
clear as the canary and whose heart
is radiant as the sunbeam.
Affinity for one another is too big
to be cramped by custom or cowed
by opinion. Such love gloriouslv.
but they have been fiendishly throt-
tied
If the few splendid souls that
dared love always knew how, the
more scant souls that do not dare
would awaken to their need. .
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10
SAN RAFAEL DISCUSSES
FREEHOLDERS' CHARTER
Chamber of Commerce Project
Endorsed at Meeting
TSo.~;,J D;.oo.1L IL TIL C1U1

SAN RAFAEL, Dec "a meeting
was held in the city hall tonight at
which a large body of Representative
citizens discussed the question of a
freeholders' charter for San Rafael.
The meeting was called by the cham
Der OF commerce and received the in
dorsement of the Marin promotion
league. Delegates from the towns of
San Anselmo. Ross, Larkspur and Corte
MADEIRA were present.
Among those who spoke were e. S.
Rake, president of the chamber of
commerce; s. H. Olmsted, secretary
Senator E. B. Martinelli and the fol-
lowing members of the promotion
league: Mayor NJ. J. Pedrotti, James
Follis, A. l.. Hettrich. DR.. S. NJ. Angus
tine Mayor w. E. Jones of San An
selmo, George Hansen and Colonel E. S.
Ciprico.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10
SQUAW man MUST
Fight FOR LANDS
Misrepresentation Regarding
Value of Allotment Admitted
by congressman

WASHINGTON. Dec. s.-charges of
irregularity in regard to the allotment
of certain Indian lands in Oklahoma
were made IN the house of representa-
discussion and passage of the Indian
appropriation bill
The charges. which were made by
Chairman Burke OF the Indian affairs
committee, were that misrepresenta-
tions to the committee at the last seS-
sion by certain members of the house
had led to the passage Of an act for
the enrolment in the Kiowa tribe OF
Indians. and the allotment Of 100
acres of land to James s. Rowel, when
he was not entitled to it.
+ 1t was finally decided to let the
question of Rowell's citizenship in the
Indian tribe go to the courts. but the
bill withdrew for the time being Row
ellis right to an allotment.
The bill, as finally passed, carried
appropriations of $s.277.9s5, which was
$4,000 more than recommended by the
committee.
ROPER APPOINTED PosTMAsTER-was
ton, Dec. 9.-John W. Roper today ap-
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10
CalifOrnians on Travels

NEW YORK. Dec. s.-The following
Californians are registered at New
York hotels:
San Francisco-w. n. Tuttle Jr., Waldorf
Astoria; J. Hume, Hotel Victoria; J. W. Neil,
Hotel Breslin; Mrs. J. II. Beach Park avenue
hotel; Mrs. A. NJ. Chestenet. Hotel Marie An
toinette; D. NJ. Crouch, Hotel Bristol; Miss O..
L Larson, Hotel York; Mrs. T. B. Peixotto and
Mrs r. Peixotto, Great Northern hotel; Mrs
j. Iindbohm, Hotel York.
Los Angeles HeTlinger, Union Square ho-
tel; r. E. Hutchinson, New Amsterdam hotel.
Sacramento-J. Lubin and Mrs J. Lubin, Ho-
tel ST. Andrew.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10

GAS ExPLoDEs AT BIG FIRENew York.
Dec. 9.-Six fremen were overcome by an
explosion OF gas in fire which broke out
today in a FIVE story building in West Twenty
third street. occupied by Dempsey & Car
roll, stationers. and other firms. The fire
did damage amounting to 800, 900.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10

Thomas HIPS Paintings at Auction
Today at 2:30 and 900 p. m, Red Room,
st. Francis Hotel. Exhibition after 10
q. m.
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10
ONLY one 4BRoNo qUrNTNEv

That is Laxative Bromo Quinine. Look
for signature Of E.W. Grove Used world
over to Cure Cold in One Day. 25c. :
The San Francisco call., 1910-12-10
DIR. BURKE WROTE
FREE Love ESSAY
Physician Set Forth Views on
Morality and Scoffed at
Conventions
College Professor Reciprocated
Love of Lu Eta Smith,
Declares Defense

Continued From Page 1
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1910-08-24
Huke Smith Victorious.

Atlanta, Ga, Aug 24,-Completc
returns Of the primary election show
today that the rule turn about is fair
play" applies in politics also. Former
Governor Hoke Smith, who was de-
featcd two years ago by Joseph NJ.
Brown, yesterday defeated Governor
Brown. The primary result means
that Smith will be the next governor.
Smith has a popular ajority of %, :
900 apd will have % majority in the
convention.
William Schlcy Howard defeated
Lon" Livingston for the Congress
sonal nomination IN the fifth district.
The fact that Livingston boltcd his
party and supported Speaker Cannon
in the fight on the House rules cost
him hundreds OF votes
Congressman Lee, Howard Hard
wick and Edwards are rcnominated.