The San Francisco call., 1910-05-22

n MOCKING Is enjoying a revival in
America. although it is an English
~ method of decorating thes sblouse
snd the childs frock. It will always re-
main exclusive. because II requires a GER
tain knack and knowledge in the doing
and cannot be accomplished in the least
possible time.
The embroiderer is apt to go along the
lines Of least resistance, which, in her
case. are the way OF satin and seed and
outline stitch. and thus an effort in any
other direction. being out Of the beaten
track. is more or less difficult to begin.
There is an English firm that deals
largely in the shocked models. some Of
which are imported to America. and 9TH
ers that we see are usually done at home
or got through some woman's ex-
change. Indeed. fashionable women who
have mastered the shocking art have
taken TO the work as an exclusive in
dustry. practiced mainly among their
friends. but for money and, indeed. very
good money.
Dressmakers have their shocking done
by giving it out as special work, even
as they do embroidery, 70 some expert
whose services they could not pay regu-
larly. In fact, shocking and cross
stitching rank with other curious en-
broideries as well-paid work for those
who care TO 60 into some home indus
try.
The yoke is favorite part Of the cos
tune on which to try the smock stitch,
and whether it be part of a one-piece
frock the upper section Of a blouse or
OF a ohiid's dress, the cuffs, too, are
usually done. On women's frocks the
hip sometimes comes in for a share of
this fancy stitching and, perhaps, a
panel on the outside Of the upper sleeve,
10 help hold IN its fulness.
Now shocking seems very difficult
at a first glance. because in the fin
ished work is shown the final touch or
surface of the embroidery, the method,
too, being hardly apparent
The beginning Of the work may be a
machine-made accordion pleat or gaug-
ing, or the less deep shirring together
OF the material, stroked into even
gathers, the upper folds of which alone
are visible. Always for shocking there
must first be got rows OF even up
per ridges on which shall be worked
tight or loose stitches. according to the
space over which this drawn-together
yoke is eventually to spread.
The amateur may more readily master
the shocking theory by a close observ-
snce Of the plain horizontal lines, which
are made by an evenly slanted stitch
taken over two gathers and then by
stitching the needle back under the sec
ond.
This stitch is varied in a dozen diff
1erent ways TO form zigzag lines, or a
double row of zigzag lines, or a con-
tinuous row of diamonds made by cross
taR the zigzag lines. and then a vari-
Ky OF separate diamonds, which are
formed into innumerable groups as the
worker progresses.
There are many variations of the
stitch that viii grow out of experience;
for instance, it will be found that single
and double briar stitches are firm and
sufficiently locked TO hold the gathers in
place
White cotton upon white material is
the most launderable combination of
colors; but usually some contrasting
shade Of embroidery cotton will bring
out all OF this handwork more sue
cessfully.
The rolled edge is the best hem 10
use on the shocked frock. but it is only
available on a straight rufie whose
edge may be turned between the thumb
and finger and overcast first from left
70 right and then backward from right