Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-09-24

that hints at the past summers dress 10
in Punishment. however confidently sheer.
the snow flies. All the new fall blouses
match the skirts. they are designed to
accompany-these skirts. of course being
closely related to the smart tailored
coats With weil-cut wool or mohair
suit, newly pressed into crisp lines: &
smart hat up to the minute in style. and
irreproachable new gloves, one is equip
ped for several weeks Of fall weather out
Of doors. When the coat is removed in
pia yhouse or restaurant the matching
or at any rate makes q most pleasing
color harmony, even though the material
be quite different
Thin, soft silks, satins, marouisettes.
silk muslins. crepe de chine and chif-
fon are the fabrics of which these biouses
zen suite are fashioned. Chiffon Is
far and away the most popular of blouse
fabrics just now. and while a really
handsome chiffon blouse costs tidy
price. very charming little affairs may
as low as s and Sc. These low-priced
chiffon waists are really not complete
blouses. but overblouses, and beneath
them a slip or guimpe Of lace must be
worn. or they may be put on over an
elaborate embroidered lingerie waist.
means of these useful warehouses;
most practical addition to woman's ward
robe. Two over-blouses are shown in to-
days illustrations. One is worn with the
Persian silk, feather trimmed hat; the
other with the velvet turban having Per-
sian silk quilts. Both of these over
biouses are pictured over white slips, but
the chiffon overblouse may be worn over
a contrasting color with excellent effect.
For instance, a dark blue chiffon over
blouse may be worn one day over white,
another day over the new, pretty pea
green; another day over a Persian silk
slip In this way three color combina-
lions may be evolved, all according well
with the dark blue serge suit, to match
which the over-blouse was provided.
These over-blouses are made rather SIM
ply. with groups Of tucks, embroidery or
simple braiding. They are cut without
shoulder or arm seams-in the peasant
style-and fall very loosely from the
shoulders
This easy fit is the secret of success
in chiffon blouse. which is hopelessly
ugly II so tight that a drawn effect is
suggested anywhere. II the ready-made
blouse Is too snug across the bust for
grace. the under-arm seam may be opened
and V-shaped gore set in from the
armhole to the bottom Of the blouse, so
that the material OF the front will be
thrown forward to give proper fuliness
across the bust.
Tucks are troublesome to set in chif-
fon. for each one must be carefully
measured and basted before any stitch
ing is done. If strip Of thin paper
be laid under the chiffon before the
machine sewing is started. the work
faster without danger of the fragile
material catching under the needle.
The paper may be pulled away readily
when the seam is finished.
dots and geometrical patterns in self
color or two-tone effect on her new
chiffon overblouse, placing the design
where 1t will show to best advantage
and taking care that the embroidery
silk is heavy enough to show up boldly
I'm an effective pattern. Sometimes a
double layer of the chiffon is used in
trimming effect. when the blouse is to
be worn over a light slip. This has
been done In the chiffon overblouse
worn with the hat with Persian quilts.
A double layer Of the chiffon forms the
little yoke at the neck, the extra piece
having been added, of course. under
meath and carefully stitched in place
with double line of fine stitching.
Tiny satin-covered buttons outline the
yoke and add an extra trimming touch
The double layer of chiffon is used
again on this blouse to finish the
sleeves, which end at the elbow and
fall loosely over the lace sleeves Of the
guimpes.
Often the chiffon blouse is a creation
in itself, and is not a separate over
blouse to be donned above various
guimpes These chiffon blouses, built
to match fall suits are as light as a
feather and as soft az a silk handker-
chief in the hand. The chiffon is often
dropped over a second blouse Of the
same material and the slip, or lining, il
Of the thinnest Chinese silk. The graceful
sailor. blouse pictured is made in this way
two layers of black chiffon being dropped
over the thin white lining silk. Yoke
and cuffs, attached to the lining. are o.
tucked mousseline bordered with a foli
of black satin and a softening outer folt
of chiffon. The manner of tucking this
blouse is simple and graceful. the tuck.
giving sufficient fullness over the shout
der and extending all the way down thu
loose sleeve. At the center front, almost
hidden by the sailor knot of satin, art
tiny satin-covered buttons set in row
The white satin turnover collar and cuffs
combined with the black satin and chiffon
give great smartness to this jaunty little
blouse, well suited to a young girl.
| Like the chiffon blouses, those of soft
liberty silk and Persian foulard are girlisf