The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1910-10-27
BY Cynthia Grey

BY Cynthia Grey
This first experience in home
dressmaking will take up a waist
and a blouse, but right here
want to suggest a few prelim.
inaries.
Begin your work by getting
the proper working implements;
a bust form, your size; yard
stick, some thumb tacks, plenty
Of pins, and a sharp pair of scis-
sors. Fix an old kitchen table
of good size, with an oilcloth
covering, for you require a smooth
surface to cut and trace ON. Place
in your work basket a tape meas
ure, tracing wheel, tailor's chalk
and several spools of colored
thread for traing delicate mate
rails. Then have some one take
your measurements, after which
go to your nearest agency and
get your pattern.
The first model l have chosen
is to be waist, and has no
trimming design, yet it is charm
ing. 1t is known as "The Gibson
Waist" Made up in linen, ma
dras, percale, striped shirtings,
smooth finished flannelette or cot
ton crepe, all of which come at
IL 1-2c per yard. 1t will make
you a serviceable garment.
To develop it you require for a
medium size (36-inch bust meas
ure) 3 "a yards of 27-inch mate
rial and 2 "a yards of 36-inch ma
terial. You will find the guam
tity for your size specified on the
front of pattern envelope, and
the expense will be as follows:
2 1-2 yards of 36-inch material
| at IL 1-2c .35c
Half dozen pearl button at
| 12c per dozen ........... &C
Pattern and thread ....... .13c
| Before you begin to cut waist,
alter pattern to fit, closely fol-
lowing direction given. Then
cut and haste carefully. Remem-
Der that time spent in basting is
never wasted. Follow directions
for making as given on envelope.
Exercise care in placing "Gibson"
plat. 1t must be two and one
half inches at shoulder and one
inch at waist line. Get your waist
line gatherings in place. Lap
fronts and pin before attempting
to fit. In fitting, smooth gar
ment across front and back and
adjust defects at shoulders and
armholes. Allow plenty of ease.
If armhole is too snug, adjust by
clipping edges. See that collar
is not too high and meets prop
erly at back. If you have not
used a machine, experiment by
running long, straight seams be-
fore attempting to sew the waist.
Finish shoulder and under arm
seams by French seams. To
make, sew narrow seam on wrong
side, turn on right side and sew IN
hastings. Stitch Gibson and box
plaits all the way down. See
that sleeve hangs properly. For
buttonholes, lap cuffs and waist
fronts and cut horizontally. Work
openings closely.
! Our holiday" blouses will LOOK
particularly striking with your tail
ored suit on Sunday afternoons or
| for an evening at the theater. 1t
is the latest kimono style with the
unbroken shoulder line, q notice
able feature of all imported
clothes, and is sometimes called
the peasant" blouse. 1t looks
stunning" made of satin lumi-
neauX, warp rajah, or pongee,
which come 81 inches wide and sell
for see a yard. We will make
our waist of the satin lumineaux
which comes in many shade tones.
You require half yard of silk OF
a contrasting shade for bands.
This blouse will cost you:
8 yds. at soc Silt
IL yd. of silk at 49c.. rs
For pattern sewing silk and
fluting of frill ......... pa
| TOtal .......... .oG
Alter pattern, if necessary. Be
fore cutting waist, cut one selv.
age strip 8 IL inches wide from
liz yards of material for frill
then divide into three equal parts
the remainder of material and joir
by seams. Tuck with 1-S-incI
lplaits every three-quarters of al
inch, using machine tucker. II
tucking material, lay a strip Of
newspaper under each tuck, stitch
ing through both. Paper keeps ma
chine from drawing goods. Pull
it away as soon as stitched. The
bands are cut on the bias. To DE-
this, fold the LIZ yard of silk dag
onally across the center, and meas
lure on selvage three and one
lquarter inches; crease and folk
lup entire material in two and one
half inch folds, and cut.
Place pattern on tucked materi
al with forethought, so that there
is no waste of material. Be care
full to cut notches in under arm
seam, just as they appear on pat
tern. Cut the peplum of lining
material.
To make, follow directions giveI
lon envelope. Trim with the bands
at neck, around shoulder ant
laround edge of sleeves. The folt
at the side, with it's fluted frill
suggests a side closing. Finish
bands by false hemming them a
Ieither side and slip-stitch them in
lvisibly to waist material. Wear
blouse with your last years lace
waist as a guimpe.
u The second article, to be pub