davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10
NEW NECKWEAR

A IL the new neckwear shows the
IN effect Of the frill. Many OF the
4 h modish jabots shown in the en-
broidery shops are frilled at only one
side. so as to increase the resemblance
20 the side rufile we are all wearing on
our summer blouses.
Here IS a high stock Of lace. with a
long. lace jabot. in stole fashion. and a
lawn. lace-edged frill sewed to it down
the left side. It is very stunning indeed,
and yet II needs only simple touch
10 the old-fashioned lace stock jabots
every woman treasures to produce the
smart effect.
Then there is a Dutch collar, made
with a neckband and fashioned Of
pleated linen with an embroidered seal
loped edge and d row Of French dots in
black. The one-sided frill here is Of the
same accordion pleated linen. and has
the same scallops and embroidery. It
IS in wedge shape, ending in a long
point.
Many OF the new Dutch collars are OF
lace. with jabot or double stole attached.
One pretty one has the 5abot fastened
70 the square collar by means OF large
pearl buttons. so that it forms a vest
effect
A stock Of pleated lawn and lace inser-
ton has q jabot Of three deep rufies.
lace edged and each longer than the
one above It. connected by central
strips OF wide lace. The top rufie
reaches nearly 10 the shoulders. ike a
cape.
In fact. this cape idea is seen in sew
eraI OF the new high stocks. One OF
sheer linen has q deeply rufl1ed jabot,
buttoned 10 the stock and showing the
same vertical strip Of lace. The ruffie
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

n M OURN1NG is usually procured in
mi such a hurry that small atten-
AsA ton can be given to its details.
Those of US who still thus announce
our grief. however, do not wish to give
up the niceties of dress because of it.
and therefore a few words on the sub
ject of summer mourning will not be
amiss.
The widows veil for middle-age
women is. of course, of crepe in Golf
effect. with the point in front set OF by
dull jet beads The folds are fiat and
lie fiat against the head.
Instead of jet, the wooden beads so
much in use everywhere are seen ex-
tensively as mourning trimmings, being
used with black silk buttons and crepe
landings where no other adornment Is
permissible.
There Is no occasion in hot weather
to wrap ones self so completely in
crepe swathings as to give the effect Of
a Turkish lady of fashion. All the
sheer black materials may be used. but
black muslin or cambria underwear
should be worn beneath them, for moth
ing is uglier than black over white.
All-white has become as much deep
mourning as all-black. and is much
better suited to summer weather. Two
women almost out of deep mourning
attended a business occasion where
yet some dress was necessary. One
wore a black lawn dress over dull silk
and trimmed only with soutache braid;
the other wore a white linen dress with
white silk-covered buttons and folds Of
white corded silk as its trimming Both
were IN perfect good taste, and so this
choice at least is offered.
Even with the deepest mourning,
sheer lawn turnover collars and cuffs
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10
For the Lingerie Waist

A TIGHT-CUT lingerie waist OF white
IA lace and embroidery gains Won
4 n derfully in elaborateness by the
addition Of the latest French fancy. This
Is a broad band of net in a pastel shade.
embroidered In soutache braid of the
same color and applied Just over the
bust. With this IS worn one of the new
neck scarfs Of chiffon. in a color that
exactly matches and with the ends en-
broidered in the soutaehe. Both of these
are easily made up at home by any
clever needlewOman. and viii go a long
way toward hiding the deficiencies OF 2
pretty but aging lingerie waist. The
chiffon scarf is especially charming
when embroidered its entire length with
large coin dots IN satin stitch
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

The flowers you can work in the fat
wallachian stitch if you wish. This
is quick and effective and promises dura-
bility. But If your preference be for
solid work, you can disregard the cen
tral vein put there as a guide for the
wallachian, and after padding slightly
the petals should be worked with the
usual solid stitch. The central part of
each flower can be a tiny eyelet to
match the groups Of eyelets in the body
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

of tho design. II I were you, would
not overdo the matter, but would work
the groups of three disks on the bor-
der in regular solid stitch.
The stems should be kept slender, sug-
gesting a line, for the border must not
be made too heavy in appearance.
When working the scallops, a slight
padding IS necessary. using darning cot
ton in chain stitch II you aim at
quickness In the work. To make the
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10
For Eyelet Workers

TTTHEN making large round or, OBJ
wv long eyelets or those that are
petal-shaped, all difficulty may
be ooyiated by working first and cutting
away the central material afterward
with tiny manicure scissors. If carefully
done by this method. the laundering will
have only a beneficial effect upon the
eyelet instead of wearing it out.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

edge doubly strong, a buttonhole stitch
Is suggested as a final touch.
l cannot too heartily emphasize the
comfort of the sailor collar for blouse
or dress. In the all-white scheme which
can be combined with any color, or with
touches of color to bring it into har-
mony with colored dress. it stands
in an important place in this summers
fashion, and I am sure It will be promi-
nent in the summers work Of indus
trious women.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

TT SEEMS at first sight a very hard
thing to embroider bag already
II supplied with stiff and unyield-
ing frame, but it really becomes quite
a simple matter to the woman who is
not dependent on the embroidery ring,
when the bag is opened to its fullest
capacity and the stitches are carefully
made. The bag can, in fact. be turned
entirely inside out and the lining sewed
In afterward.
Besides, these stamped linen bags are
so pretty that they are irresistibly
tempting to the woman who loves
dainty fancy work and the dress acces-
sories that result from 1t.
The stamped bag shown In the illus
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10
Il l0as Roe NJ aaasc 0Ts9

line on the roses themselves and with
the stemlike lines In the same stitch.
The inner design of the background pat
tern is In seed stitch. This bag is pref
ty in all red. or in red against a soft
green, preferably the former. The
lower petals OF the roses may be slight
ly darker than the upper. or all the
petals may be shaded.
The third bag. in delft blue and
white. with the black outline again, is
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

quantity Japanese, and quite striking
when completed The stitch Is again
the popular fat one. with the white
squares horizontal and the blue portion
oolique The conventionalized stems
are worked in outline stitch.
These bags are really very handsome.
and since they are far from expensive
ana can be made with comparative
qulckness, they should provide occupa-
uon for many deft embroiderer ON
Motel and home porches this summer
Inc bag and the materials for working
do not. together, amount to more than
-, while the completed bag sells for
$50 or s.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10
NasAsu ~ @oI Greens an GvW

stitch around the edge of the design is
in black, and there is row of French
knots in gray next to this in the mid
die pattern. In the fiat work the d.
rection of the stitches IS varied. being
sometimes in a general horizontal and
sometimes in a more vertical position.
The rose bag seems truly of the mid
die ages, with its conventionalized
flower design of the Tudor emblem. 1t
is again in fiat work, with black out
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

~ O NUMEROUS have been the re-
~ quests for a sailor collar design
L that I an glad to offer one today
that delightfully."- combines sim
plieity Of decoration with just a little
departure from the usual White linen
OF medium weight is perhaps best for
this idea; the conventional design is ar
ranged TO allow you freedom of choice
in worldng-a message that all needle
workers hail with Joy.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10

tration is OF gray linen, which Is much
cooler and more attractive than even
the natural colored. and is in con-
ventionalized crustacean design. 1t
should not be worked in bright colors,
however, but in the cool green's and
grays shown in the sample given This
fat work. without padding. is really
a revival of the medieval embroid-
cries. with their many varieties of
stitches on one piece. The outline
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-10
Beads for Applique

~ EADS are to the fore, wooden.
satin and rubber, strung on metal
- thread .on gold gauze back
ground.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18

WELLMAN'S AIRSH|P
LOST; CREW SAVED


New York, Oct. 16-(Daily
Pioneer Special Wire Service)-
Walter Wellmar and his crew of
five men were picked up this
morning 100 miles off the coast of
North Carolina.
Wellman left New York Satur-
day morning in his airship Amer
lea in an effort to fly across the
Atlantic ocean.
News of bis rescue we're today
received by wireless from the Royal
mail steamship Trent, on her way
from this port to Havana,
The wireless message said:
Picked up Wellman and crew
who had abandoned disabled air.
ship. All are SAFE"
The message also gave the latitude
and longitude. y,
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
R0SEAU man WANTS WIFE
Kind, Funny" Farmer Yearns 70,
''Kind, Youngish" Mate.

State Librarian John E. Kin G
has received the following import
ant communication:
"Roseau, Minn.-The State
Librarian. River, MIMI, 1912.
10. Excuse card. Am expe-
riepced as Supt. U. S. Sd. &
other schools; farmer, traveller,
writer. Athletic, clean, kind,
funny, no bad habits. Ideal home
among bear, deer, moose, & in
city; toto, credentials, postage.
l want kind, youngish, old fashion
step-mother for my duplicate 3 yr.
old. Mail, returnable. She
must send toto. Give personal
description & have reasonable
property. l can't leave to hunt
and you are circumstanced to
judlciously publish such common,
sensible humanitarian case where
right women are p]entier. In
formation used wisely & without
reference to you if so requested.
"a. M. Graves"
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
QUEER GIFTS FOR VICTIMS
False Teeth, Birds Eggs, 40 Canes
and Picture of Dewey.

AS an example of the instances of
good hearted, but misdirected giving
for the relief of the Baudette-Spoono1
fire sufferers curious relics have
been offered.
Forty.two canes were contained
in the bundles that arrived, also one
set of false teeth, part of garden
hose, a fiat derby hat such as the
Dutch comedian wears and the
handle of a w1inger.
A collection of birds eggs and a
large bunch of keys are among other
treasures.
Forecasting the possibility that
there may be a home in the pine
woods left standing that has electric
bells in the house, the two dry
batteries that were wrapped up in a
yachting costume with four stiff
collars, full dress muh1er and a
picture of Admiral Dewey may come
in handy to the up-to.date farmer Of
the North.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
Council Takes First Step Toward Boost.
ing This Revenue From $500
to $1,000.
NO MORE SALOONS PERMITTED
Requests For New Permit Causes
Aldermen, Backed by Mayor, to-
Ask New Ordinance.

Beginning January l next, if the
attitude of the city council manifest
at its meeting last night is main
tanned, it will cost saloonkeepers in
Bemidji $1,000 to do business, in
stead of $500 as at present.
A resolution was passed by the
council calling upon City Attorney
Torrance to prepare an ordinance
increasing the cost of liquor licenses
to the above amount.
This ordinance is to come be.
fore the council for consideration
next Monday evening.
This action was due Indirectly
to an application for new saloon
license from Peter Lindberg.
The council did not take kindly
10 the proposition of adding an
other saloon to Bemidji. 1t was
also said that information from a
reliable source was to effect that
the government would not look
kindly upon such a move.
The Cass Lake muddle doomed up
and there was a general feeling that
Bemidji ought to continue along the
same conservative lines which has
marked her attitude since the Indian
treaty order has been in the lime
light.
City Attorney Torrance created a
mild sensation by declaring that
liquor was being sold in different
places about the city where no
licenses are held.
If you know that to be the case,
swear out a warrant" challenged
Mayor Parker.
Il haven't the evidence, but I
know it's so," replied Mr.. Torrance.
The Lindberg application was
laid on the table and it was then
moved that a high license ordinance
be prepared. There was some talk
of making the license $3.50 but this
was opposed by Mayor Parker and
others who believed if it is to be
raised at all that it should 60 to
$1,000.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
.B0SWORTH TO BUILD JAIL
Wins Contract in Close Contest With
Other Bidders.

Work today began on Bemidji's
new Jail which with the remodeling
of the city hall is to be done by H.
F. Bosworth at total cost of S., 400.
The contracts for the work was
awarded at a meeting of the city
council last evening. There were
four bidders:- H. F. Bosworth, Tom
Johnson, George Kreatz and John
Whittemore.
On the Jail bidding there was a
difference of but $40 between the
Bosworth and Johnson bids while on
the city hall Kreatz was but $40 be-
low Bosworth.
The Bosworth bid for the Jail and
city hall work was $4,44O, grand
total including the heating and
plumbing contracts.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
BLAKELY LOSES BY FIRE
Logs and Sleighs Consumed in White
Earth District. ..-

In fire which burned steadily all
day yesterday in the White Earth
timber, w. T. Blakely, logging for
the Wild Rice Lumber company,
lost 100000 feet of logs, number
of sleighs and other camp equip
ment. = ~.
This information was received
by Mr.. Blakely in Bemidji today
by telephone who was advised,
however, that early reports of the
damage done by fire had been ex-
aggerated.
1t was also reported that much
damage had been done in the
vicinity of Folds, but they could
not be verified.
The rain which began falling
early this afternoon remo owes the
danger from many fires which
were buring briskly in the woods
to the south and southwest.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
500 TO START new SERVICE
Trains to Run Between Winnipeg and
Duluth, Says Report.

Duluth, Oct. 18-There is re-
port in railroad circles that the
SEQ line expects to inaueurate
passenger service on the Thief
River Falls division, between
Duluth and Winnipeg, Nov. 6.
The line will be a little longer
than the Canadian Northern be-
tween the Twin Ports and Mani
toba metropolis, but it is said that
the fare will probably be a little
less as the 500 line will have
greater mileage in Minnesota,
where the fare is cent a mile.
The SEQ line between Duluth and
Winnipeg will have but 69 miles
on 3 cent basis.
The 500 line is two miles shorter
to Bemidji and Cass Lake, it is claim
ed, than the Great Northern. The
500 line will establish passenger ser.
vice that will meet present needs to
the Guyana range at about the same
time that it puts trains in commits
sion on the Thief River Falls di.
vision.
The stations between Duluth and
Superior and Winnipeg are: Black
hoof, Nemadji, Moose Lake, Find
land, LAWYER, McGregor, Round
Lake, Palisade, Balm, Swatara,
Shovel Lake, Remer, Boy River,
Federal Dam, Portage Lake, Cass
Lake, Farris, Rosby, Bemidji, Scrib-
ner, Pinewood, Leonard, Clearbrook,
Gonvuck, Gully. Trail, Oklee,
Plummer, Thief River Falls, New
folken, Karfstad, Bronson, Orleans,
Noyes, Emerson and Dominion City.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
WANT SALOON MAN FREED
Friends of Cauvreau, Taken to Prison
Today, to Ask Pardon

A. E. Gauvreau, who was sentenced
last week in district court here by
Judge Wright to serve six months
in the penitentiary on a charge of
having sold liquor to a person of
Indian blood, was today taken to
Saltwater by Sheriff Hazen.
Mr.. Gauvreau has been in the
liquor business in Bemidji for some
time. He claims the sale of the liquor
which resulted in his conviction was
made by bartender. His friends be-
lieve the punishment extremely un-
just and have begun movement to
have the board of pardons grant him
his freedom.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
Committee Collecting Money for Bau.
dette-Spooner Sufferers Disap-
pointed at Showing.
LISTS TO BE CIRCULATED AGAIN
Hoped That Subscriptions Will be En-
larged Before Names of Donors
Are Made Public.

At a meeting in the Commercial
club rooms last evening of the COM
mittee appointed to gather funds for
the relief of the Baudette-Spooner
fire victims, it developed that Be-
midi fails to realize the necessity of
adding to the money already raised
for the sufferers.
AS result it was decided that a
renewed and vigorous campaign for
the collection of funds must be
made.
Here we are," said one of the
members of the committee, the
county seat of the county most seri-
cusly affected and yet our relief fund
is far from what it should be. Some
persons probably are deceived re.
garding the aid furnished. The
relief supplies rushed on by Bemidji
must yet be paid for and there is
much relief work which still remains
to be done."
Another member said:
Minneapolis and St. Paul each
have raised $4,000, Duluth has a
fund of $4,000 and other places
are making a grand showing and it
certainly up to US to show our colors.
Up to date we have rendered assist
ance that has been praised through
out the state but if we are to make a
record complete we must awaken to
the necessity of contributing gener.
ously.
II had charge of circulating the
lists and I was somewhat mortified
to find a good many who seemed to
look upon the matter as sort of a
Fourt of July subscription list"
The committee decided to delay
asking the city for an appropria.
ton until next Monday, in the
meantime circulating the sub
scription lists for second time.
The committee feels that in a
number of instances the subscrip-
tons will be enlarged when the
seriousness of securing the funds
becomes impressed upon the pub
lie, and before the list is pub.
lished.
The solicitors will begin sec
ond canvass of the city at once.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
BAILEY MAKES QUICK CATCH
Bemidji Game Warden Secures Con-
viction Of. Partridge Seller.

S. C.. Bailey today returned from
Hackensack, south of Walker in
Cass county where he had secured
the arrest and conviction of Charles
Wood, a hotelkeeper, on a charge
of having served partridges.
Complaints h ave frequently
been made against Mr.. Wood but
it remained for the Bemidji game
warden to effect his capture with
evidence so strong that when
arraigned before Justice Garritty,
Wood pleaded guilty and was
fined $1,000. The state law pro-
hiblts the selling of cartridges in
anyway. ~-.u-.--a a..ss.5asaFs
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
Announcement.

On Wednesday, October 49,, the
representative of Young & Company,
furriers of Minneapolis, will display
their large and choice line of Ladies'
Fur sets, Muffs. Scarfs, Pony coats,
ETC., made in the latest styles, from
which they will take your orders at
prices from rs to 40 per cent below
competition.
You are cordially invited to ex-
anime these furs. A call does not
necessarily obligate purchase.
Thanking you in advance for the
expected favor of your call I remain,
Respectfully,
VIM. McCuaig.
Dry Goods and Groceries.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
Cass Lake Places, as Well as all Others,
Will Remain Open, But New
Blow Impends.
TIMES FACES $4,000 LIBEL SUIT
Agent Sero Serves Notice for Johnson
Demanding Retraction of Article
Alleging Money Deal.

Cass Lake saloons will not be
closed at the present time, nor will
any saloons in the Indian district.
There will be no more spilling of
liquor.
There will be no more searching
of grips, except in extraordinary
cases.
This information comes direct to
the Pioneer from w. E. Johnson,
who, because of his connection with
the Indian bureau of the department
of the interior, has charge of enforce
ing the treaty which restricts the
sale of liquor in a large part of
Minnesota.
At the same time Mr.. Johnson en-
phatically announces that there has
been no change in the determina-
ton of the government to stop the
sale of liquor to Indians and he calls
attention to severe penalties provided
for persons who ship liquor into for
hidden territory, and also the gravity
of selling liquor to Indians.
While he doesn't say it in so many
words he intimates as strongly as his
position would permit that the crisis
in the present activity of the govern
ment in executing the provisions of
the Indian treaty has not been
passed and that the saloons in all
the affected towns are anything but
safe.
| Il have orders to enforce the
treaty." said Mr.. Johnson. The
people ought to know what that
means. Every saloon which is doing
business in northern Minnesota to.
day is violating the national law. I
could raid them all and throw their
liquor into the gutter, but we are
not going to do it."
The only ultimate hope of CON-
plete protection for the saloon men
lies in the abrogation of the Indian
treaty, and an effort to have congress
do this at its coming session will, it
is said, be made.
Mr.. Johnson has sent a special
government agent to Cass Lake to
make report on conditions there.
Mr.. Johnson himself will not visit
northern Minnesota.
Mr.. Johnson has demanded re-
traction by the Cass Lake Times of
an editorial in a recent issue which
charged that Mr.. Johnson had been
paid $4,000 by Bemidji saloon
keepers. Agent Sero yesterday
afternoon served notice of retract-
ion on Judge Frank Ives, editor of
the Times and this is to be followed
by a suit for $4,000 damages on
the ground that the offending
article was libelous.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
PAVEMENT TO Be SWEPT
Council Decides to Purchase Equipment
and Employ Sweeper.

Third street, recently paved with
cement, is to be kept spick and
span, a condition it is far from being
in at the present time. There had
been no provision made to keep it
clean.
At the regular meeting of the city
council last evening it was decided
to purchase a street sweeping outfit
such as is used in the larger cities
and to employ man to operate it.
The street will first be flushed and
then swept clean daily.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
Night Chemistry Class Starts.

Six young men met at the high
school last night and under the
direction of Professor Robinson
took up the study of chemistry. 1t
is hoped that the class may be en-
larged to at least nine, which mum.
Der will insure a continuance of the
night work.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
PLAN AIR MAIL SERVICE
Madagascar Officials vii, Employ FIy.
ing Postmen.

Paris, Oct: 1S.-Flying postmen will
probably be employed. for the first
time in Madagascar. M. Picquee, the
governor general, is negotiating with
the president of the French National
Aerial league for the organization of
an aeroplane mail service. Antana-
narivo, the capital, is to be linked
with towns situated as far as $50
miles distant. which can only be
reached by letter at the present time
in eight days. The distance can be
traversed by aeroplane in six hours.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-10-18
Affected by Delivers Death.

Rochester, Mimi, Oct. 1S.-The
news of the sudden death Of Senator
Dolliver of Iowa has caused slight
setback in the condition of Senator
Robert NJ. La Toilette, who is recu-
perating from an operation for appen-
dicitis at st. Mary's hospital