davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-04-17
HAT FACINGS

TyO WOMAN who would a-hatting
go, there Is an added factor In
becomingness OF present styles
that is self-evident. Facings or
all materials. shapes and sizes are i'm
portant. and very frequently furnish the
greater part of the effective work on
spring millinery. In the realm of the
hatmaker facing has been made 70 In
clude the upper and lower surfaces of
the brim and the covering OF the crown.
Indeed. the term has spread to the pro-
portions of covering most Of the shape;
and 1t were well to consider this subject
in its various phases before attempting
construction or ornamentation-
In the first place, there is the large
black straw hat that looks exceedingly
well when faced with white braid diff
fering in texture from that Of the hat
The rough moss braid almost like uncut
velvet. Is advised. because this supplies
a softening of the lines on the under
surface OF the hat. Frequently cord
ing is used to edge the brim, the color
depending upon your taste
Immense straw-colored shapes are
given a highly favored facing when a
a contrasting ring. If this be your
choice. outline the broad band on both
edges with a black velvet cording
When huge bow or cabochon is used.
this black band (for it does not cover
the entire under surface) can be pointed
upward and joined beneath the trim
ming.
Spanish shawls. is another effective fac
Ing for leghorns. The scallops elimi-
nate all difficulties Of obtaining a re-
quired neatness Of the outer edge. The
fulness can be easily pleated in toward
the crown. there being little difficulty
in manipulating the soft mesh. A word
with regard to the lace facings: There
Is always danger in too sharp a con
wear yellow against black. or black
over yellow. Soften the new leghorn
or straw with golden brown or ecru or
If white must be used. outline forms
coarse linen thread. In this way the
lace will be blended into the contrast
ing background.
Many hats OF the evening type are
net under which a band of shirred fow-
cred silk has been fastened, for this
yelling OF color Is too effective TO rele-
gate to gowns Both white and black
chiffon, tulle and maline are used
Crowns are now faced with metallic
or colored laces. in many instances the
scalloped edge running for a short dis
tance on the upper surface OF the brin.
Again. there Is a decoration OF straw
that runs in an opposite direction from
that Of the woven hat This idea can
be realized when the attractive little
mushroom shape. with it's silk crown,
needs brim to offer a contrast on the
under surface.
The facing is decidedly a potent con-
tributing factor to the general appear
ance of the hat. and should be empha-
sized in planning for attractive spring
designs
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-04-17

PARIS, April Z.
"HE separate manteau OF black
satin Is here. 1t is worn with
Il the afternoon gown. and when
fashioned of rich, dull silk and
embellished with braid or embroid-
cry Is well fitted to supply decora-
tion and warmth.
More than ever is the soft wrap Of
charmeuse or chiffon seen as a grace
ful complement of the afternoon or
evening gown Indeed, it is designed
as part of costume. and well serves
It's purpose of a contributing factor
In the general scheme.
At the Maison Lewis an extremely
good-looking black hat was shown
with its straw crown draped with a.
scarf and bow of "bleu de ror' satin.
yelled with black chiffon. This COM
binatfon. by the way. is a pleasing
favorite for afternoon wear.
There is a gratifying simplicity in
many of the newest chapeaux. One
striking hat seen at the Casino was
of black chantilly lace. nothing more.
Fringe on the petticoat Is one of
the newest lingerie touches. of
course, the silk petticoat is the one
to which the soft fringe has attached
itself
Many white muslin or sheer linen
frocks are in prepare ton for the
warm days, and the noticeable feature
is the skirt in two or three tiers.
Then. too. the introduction of fine
embroidery is worth while One ia
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-04-17

n OWN from the days OF 1880 steps
the little wrap which grand
L. mother called the pelerine, and
which is more graceful, more
varied and probably more artistic for
the modern touch that he's been given
10 It
Drecou was one OF the first houses
over IN Paris 20 show what q charming
little thing an adaptation OF a scarf
can be. OF supple cloth or silk, chiffon
or net. the pelerine may be fashioned.
It Is best when made to match the
gown; 1t is even successfully worn with
q separate skirt and it's blouse to
match. At any rate. there Is q won
derfUl possibility in the garment, for
the changes are legion. the effect al
ways charming
When viewed from the front. the pei
crime has the effect Of a crossed fichu.
This is quite attainable when the soft
silk (changeable IS the favorite) is used.
The narrow ends encircle the waist and
tse in a butterfly bow at the back. Or.
If the material be nable, the bow
can be permanent and the fastening
secured by q hook
At the back this little wrap is cape
like. dropping in folds over the shout
cers. The top edge is kept in shape by
the narrow collar; the lower part is
finished with a rufie OF the same
material. Of chiffon that exactly
matches the shade OF the wrap. or by
long. silk fringe that IS again invading
fashions realm.
Glance at the drawing at the left and
your practical eye win grasp the salient
points Of the pelerine in a simple form.
Then place 1t over the shoulders as
shown in the central figure, cross 1t at
the front like the right-hand model.
and tie the ends at the back. There
you are. With a comfortable accepted
style for spring and summer wrap.
The figure at the left shows gown
that is well combined with a pelerine
First OF all. the yoke is of figured net
shirred over cords that form rounded
lines. The tiny revers are edged with
the same material as the wrap The
bodice is plain below the yoke thus in
suring a smoothness IN the lines Of the
outer garment. Even the sleeves are
constructed with this end in view. Then
N--N -sS "a INT pS4eAlHc lneTe
IS the required fulness In the lace
sleeves
And that brings US 10 the question of
this important part OF the dress. You
viii notice that half. and sometimes
more than half, Of the sleeve is shown
beneath the pelerine. Suggestions will
not be aniss. The bodice and sleeve are
tn one, first Of all. Most of the trim
ming and fulness is below the elbow.
FTills OF net lace or tune are used to
give a fufhness reminiscent Of olden
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-04-17

of the straw. The possibility of adapt
ing this idea to American needs (and
purses) is self-evident; the idea is re-
freshingly new.
The latest handbag is of rafia, woven
in close stitches and decorated with
embroidered flowers Your winter
leather shape can be slowed away for
a well-deserved rest, for the raffia bag,
being of the natural color, can be car
ried with any costume and offers a
relief from the usual. These handbags
are varied in construction and design.
There are some that are plain for
morning wear. and others that are or
namented with beads. ribbon work or
linen embroidery. that belong with the
afternoon gown. The fitted-out bag is
here in raffia form. and some bags are
made to accompany sunshades of the
same material
A fringed parasol speaks for itself
as delightful exploitation of raffia.
The weaving is close enough to pre-
vent sun or shower from streaming on
the fair owners head. The deep fringe.
knotted. and then of the straight ends.
gives an appropriate border for either
the opened or closed shape. Notice the
handle of woven cords, decorated with
beads and wound around the stick.
To suggest the other articles of wear
In the construction of which raffia has
been used were an endless task. The
belt. the motor bonnet, the watchfobs
are but few of the articles that are
decidedly welcome as summer apparel.
The cleanliness. decorative character
and comparatively sweet reasonableness
of raffia are three strong words that
insist upon a favorable acceptance from
sensible women.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-04-17

times. although in one model the long
lace-trimmed cufr is excellently COM
bined with a bell-shaped top.
Variations OF the lower edge Of the
top sleeve are secured by scallops,
points, square tabs or crossed lines
Braid, frills and lace are used with
lavish hand. Your own ideas and tina
limitations of material should be the
guiding lines for the sleeves.
The Importance OF considering both
outer wrap and the integral parts Of the
costume beneath. in their relation to
each other, cannot he too much empha-
sized One thing is certain: the pelerine
or the ''paletot," as some call it, is here
and bids for well-deserved popularity.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1910-04-17

Occasionally this is relieved by bow of
velvet.
Facings Of brown or black velvet are
this springs touch. The contrast is gen
orally becoming. and is a test of good
workmanship. This latter point, of
course, will mark the amateur from the
expert
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1910-07-08
JUDGE D. |. LANSDEN
SeIf-EduCated Man of Fine A.
tainment-- School Teacher,
Lawyer and Judge.

Judge D. l.. Lansden is a native OF
White county, and is just Al years OF
age. He was educated in the COM
mon school, then taught school and
read law while he taught. In a very
few years after he began practicing,
he was recognized by the bar as one
OF the strongest lawyers in that Sec
ton of the state. His litigation
varied, much of it being the difficult
mountain land suits that all lawyers
dread so, but in which he was most
successful. To his experience as a
lawyer he has added eight years
judicial work. having been electoS
Chancellor of the Eighth division in
1902 His work ON the bench has
more than pleased his people. He is
seldom reversed by the Supreme
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1910-07-08
HON. GRAFTON GREEN
Grandson of Founder of Cum.
berIand Law School Comes
of Line of Great Lawyers.

Hon. Grafton Green of Davidson
county is the son of Judge Nathan
Green, who has for the past half a
century been Chancellor of Cumber-
land University and Dean Of Cumber-
land Law School. His grandfather
was Judge Nathan Green. The latter
was on the Supreme bench from 1881
to 1852, and was one of the great
judges of the state and called the
father of our equity system.
Hon. Grafton Green graduated from
the Lebanon Law School, founded by
his father,> and has since practiced
law in Nashville. He is a brother
in-law, of Judge w. c. Caldwell of
Trenton, who was a member of the
Supreme Court from 1886 until his
voluntary retirement in 1902, and
who was chairman of the great con-
vention for an independent judiciary
held in Nashville May 18th.
Davidson county has in recent
years been represented in the Su-
preme Court by Judge McAlister. 1t
is fitting that this place should be
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1910-07-08
JUDGE M. NJ. NEIL
SchooIboy Under Robert {. Lee
Has Interesting Career as
LAWYER and Judge.

Judge Matt Marshall Neil CT Glib
son county is regarded as one of the
ablest and most scholarly men who
ever sat upon the states highest tri-
bunal. He was born in Lincoln coun-
ty and was the grandson of the Rev.
Matt Martin Marshall one of the
most celebrated of the states Pres
byterian ministers. When sixteen
years of age, Judge Neil entered
Washington and Lee University in
Virginia, where he graduated with
high honors. The immortal Robert
e. Lee of the Confederacy was then
president of the school and the great
General had no more ardent admirer
than the Tennessee schoolboy.
Following his graduation at the
Virginia school, young Neil taught
school three years and thus, saving a
little money, he entered the Lebanon
Law School. Judge Neil opened a
law Office in Trenton, Gibson county,
and soon acquired a large law prac-
tice, extending all over West Ten
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1910-07-08
OF Putnam County.

Court and is regarded as most able
judge. Twenty-three counties had,
prior to the meeting of the state
committee-each acting in its own
way and controlling its own local af-
fairs-instructed for Judge Lansden,
while not a single county had in
structed for his opponent, Judge Bell.
1t is significant, too, that the coun-
ties acting for Judge Lansden were
nearly all counties remote from the
influence of local conditions. His
home people were supporting him
with equal vigor.
When the unprecedented attempt
was made by Governor Patterson to
force the hand of the supreme court
in the celebrated Cooper case, Judge
Lansden felt that due respect for
the dignity Of the court demanded
that he join Judges Beard, Neil and
Shields in resenting so fragrant an
insult, to the court and SO dire a
menace to the liberties of the people,
and he therefore cast BIZ. lot with the
"ro"n Nf candidates knGH0 In
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1910-07-08

nessee and embracing all branches
of the law. He soon attained dis
tinction as one of the leading lawyers
of the state and, in 1895, he was ap-
pointed by the. governor a member of
the then newly created Court of Civil
Appeals. In 1896 he was elected to
that court by the people. In August
1902, he was elected to the Supreme
bench, and is just rounding out his
first term.
Judge Neil's work on the bench has
been noted for its absolute fearless
ness, great diligence and Comprehen-
sive intelligence and a high sense Of
justice and right. No man in eight
years has had to decide more impor-
tant cases of general interest to the
state, and among them may be men
toned the Memphis charter case; the
Standard Oil custer case that was af-
firmed by the United States Supreme
Court: the noted Cumberland Church
case, and many others.
Judge Neil has always been a DEM
ocrat, but has never permitted his
political affiliations to influence his
work in any respect. He. regards
himself as commissioned to serve the
whole people. In fact, Judge Neils
many friends point with pride to his
stainless private life, his home life,
and his judicial career alike.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1910-07-08

filed by a Nashville lawyer, and 1t
was only after it came to be under
stood that Judge McAlister was de-
termined to enter the June primary
that Mr. Green was urged to and con-
scented to offer himself for the place.
Mr.. Green is thirtyseven years 'of
age and is a man Of fine presence.
He is quiet in his demeanor, but
man of strong personality. lie IS re-
garded as one of the clearest-mlndea
and most accurate lawyers in the
state. In addition, he has temper
ament that peculiarly fits him to be
Judge, q man of fine mental and
moral poise. He has on several occa-
sions sat as special judge in the
higher courts. He was formerly
supporter of Governor Patterson.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1910-07-08

dependent judicial ticket. He is rec
ognized as one OF the strongest men
on the ticket and his personal popu-
larity and his well known honesty
and integrity as a judge will add
much to the strength Of the ticket
throughout the state.
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26
THE
MENACE OF ROMAN
CATHOLICISM.

Dear Sir:-If we Jeffs would only
do our duty we could enroll the
whole human race. The more our
wealth is concentrated-the more
paupers we can make through class
legislation. Equal rights to all
and special favors to none," through
our governmental influences. will
free us most rapidly from the tyran-
Gus attitude of Roman Catholicism.
From the time that I discussed this
question of Roman Catholicism in
the ''Clyde Shropshire'' contest in
the University of Georgia, while a
student there in 1898, I have re-
garded Roman Catholicism as the
greatest peril which confronts the
American Government. Perhaps my
article on the Roman Church along
this line, forwarded some two years
ago for print in the Jeffersonian
Magazine, and which was returned
to me at that time with the sugges-
ton that the field covered by The
JeffersOnian at this time' did not
make it opportune, would be advis-
able at this time. Inasmuch as the
committee in that Athens contest, in
1898, said that the speech was the
most able and far-reaching of all de-
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26
AUTOS SHOULD PAY FOR USE OF
COMMON HIGHWAYS.

Dear Sir:-I would like to have
your opinion as to whether it is con-
stitutional to pass law to prohibit
autos to travel the public road. We
had bond issue here of 100000
to have graded roads, and now there
are so many autos running these
roads that it is dangerous to travel
them with horses or mules. They
claim that the auto is considered a
vehicle and they have a right to
travel the roads. Suppose they are
called vehicles, that does not keep
them from being dangerous; it is
against the law to shoot across or
near a public road, because it is dan
gerous. You can call gun a toy, but
that does not keep it from being
dangerous. It is the rich class that
has the autos, you know. It is a
common thing to hear of horses and
mules running away and hurting
somebody. We have a speed limit,
and the law requires autos to stop
when a person gives them the sign
The people have to work the roads
ten days in the year, or pay SIS by
the list of January of that year; but
the man with the auto does not do
either, because he lives inside the
corporation. How would it do for
every man that does not own a auto
to just quit working the road or pay
ing any road tax? Just give the
roads up to the autos, because
there is no way to stop the auto from
travelling the roads. The Congress-
men and Senators are very much in
terested now in building public roads
for the autos, why did they not get
interested before the auto came?
But we will have graded roads now,
because the rich class wants them.
But what satisfaction will it be to
the common people? We have a
school law that is a humbug, but we
darn fools will put up with anything.
Yours, M. JOHNSON.
OWassa, Ala.
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26
is WITH THE JEFFS.

Dear. Mr. Watson:-I take The
JEFF. like it very much. 1t is well
worth the one ($1) dollar, and the
knife is good one. Don't see how
you can give everybody a knife like
that.
am with you on the subject of
Foreign Missions, / never have be-
lieved in it one bit.
Yours truly, w. L. POOLE.
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26
Answer.

While I own an automobile my
self, the few times that I have ridden
in it have but deepened my convic-
ton that the use of the common
highways by these cars is an injus-
tice to those who travel on foot, in
buggies, carriages and wagons.
In my judgement, an automobile
has no more business in common
highway, than bicycle has on a
sidewalk. T. e. w.
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26

Farmers and farm workers. you
are invited to join the army of the
Jeffersonians, who are fighting for
the People against those who are
robbing the People. A handsome
button free by writing to The Jefrs,
Thomson, Ga.
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26
5be 3effersonian

aLxzstSS
tors and Federal Judges: we believe
in equal rights to all and special
privileges to none: we think that no
mans business should be built up at
the expense of the business of other
men: we believe in a graduated in
come tax, to be made heavier and
heavier as the income grows larger
and larger: we believe in the direct
issue of all money by the Govern
ment, and that every dollar, whether
it consists of gold, silver Or paper,
should be the equal of every other
dollar: we are eternally opposed to
the farming out to national bankers
the sovereign power of creating
money: we are opposed to the mort
gaging of the republic by bond is
sues: we believe in the governmental
ownership of all public utilities, such
as transportation lines, express COM
panies, telephones and telegraphs.
CD The difference between Popu-
Iism and true Democracy is practi-
cally nothing. But the national
Democratic Party, as now consti-
tuted, is practically the same as the
Republican Party, and, therefore, we
are antagonizing it as being false to
ante-bellum Democracy. and false to
the best interests of the people,
(4) I suppose that I will have to
say that the compulsory school law
is all right, but I am certainly not
hungry about it. 1t is a very serious
proposition for the State to enter
into a mans private dwelling and
say what he must do with his chill
dren. Any compulsory school law
should be so constructed as to Dre-
vent poverty from being penaIized.
l would vehemently oppose any
school law which did not furnish
books and absolutely free tuition.
without incidental expense, or other
contemplate little graft, at the same
time that it compelled poor man to
send his children to school. There
are so many direct and indirect
charges made in the public schools
that it is almost farcical to say that
we furnish education free. The
school book trust gets in it's work,
and the incidental fee business is
with us always. I hardly know of
anything that needs a more thorough
Over-hauling and drastic reform than
our present school system, which is
in danger of being run for the bene-
fit of the teacher, rather than that
of the scholar.
go Yes, I do. If you were
twenty-one years old, we would see
if we could elect you.
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26

Get wise on the propaganda of the
Socialists. Read Watson's Political
and Economic Handbook, 81 per
copy. The Jeffs, Thomson, Ga.
The Jeffersonian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1907-1917, 1910-05-26
You Can't be Happy With an Aching Sole

When your feet pain you, either from
Corns, Callouses, or Bunions, or if they
are sWeaty, tired, or blistered, your
whole body suffers in consequence.
Let US tell you how to treat them by
sending a &c stamp.
GOODWIN CO.. 81 e. 81 st ST., Chicago. M.