The Wenatchee daily world. [volume] (Wenatchee, Wash.) 1905-1971, 1910-08-13
WASNOTCOMPLEIE
FAILURE


headed an expedition which attempt
ed the ascent of Mt. Mckinley this
summer will be interested in the fol-
lowing account of the perilous and
unsuccessful enterprise sent to the
Portland Oregonian by Mr.. Rusk
from Seward, Alaska, Immediately
after his arrival at that seaport on
July 81:
After one of the bitterest struggles
in the history of mountain climbing,
the Mazama expedition, supported
by the Portland Oregonian and the
New York Herald, was compelled to
abandon the ascent of Mt Mckinley
for this season.
The provisions of the party were
exhausted, and a quick retreat was
found necessary to escape starvation.
On leaving Talkeetna, May 90, the
members Of the party found that
their polling boat was untitled to
carry the supplies of the party up
the swift Chulitna. The outfit d.
vided and with an Indian boatman
secured for a week the party strug-
gled up the treacherous stream, wet
to the skin each day. Hampered by
sloughs, sinking into quicksand to
the waist, rowing through rapids in
the overloaded boat, lining around
the perpendicular walls of the Chu-
litna canyon, the expedition won its
way mile by mile until on the after
noon of June 10, Camp Rodney on
the TOkositna was reached, with
scant supply of provisions.
1t rained every day. The Indians
who had agreed to bring more food
failed to come A young caribau
wandered into camp and was killed
by Ridley and added to the scant
supply of stores.
A trail was cut three miles through
a tangled forest to the moraine of
Ruth Glacier. The party began re-
laying it's outfit on June % toward
the glacier, having three packs of
from 40 to 60 pounds to each man.
Several glacial rivers were crossed
on foot-logs, and one river at the
glacier was waded with the entire
outfit. The lower half of Ruth Gla-
cier was very rough. 1t took five
miles of travel to gain one mile. The
way led over the rough, boulder
strewn moraine, the broken ice
fields and rotten snow stretches
Men with their packs often fell into
holes and crevasses. The only foods
were pemmican, pea soup and jerked
caribou. For seventeen days alco-
hol was the only fuel.
Cool returned on July 1 to the
base camp on account of shortage of
food. Camp Independence was es-
tablished on July 4, near where DR..
Cook took his alleged photograph OF
Mt. Mckinley. A side trip was
taken on July to find this spot.
The upper part of the glacier was
covered with snow. There was no
plant or animal life. 1t was ver-
liable Arctic world.
The foot of Mt. Mckinley was
reached after twenty days of trem-
endous hardship and Camp Nor
den was established on the snow in
the midst of the most sublime see
merry on the globe.
The expedition was now con-
fronted by the great perpendicular
walls of Mt. Mckinley, up which it
would require weeks or months OF
exploration to find a way. Only a
few days provisions remained and
there was no way to get more. All
that could be done was to take a
lot of pictures and reconnoitre a
way for a future ascent.
The weather became fine on July
ID. Point Piper was climbed and
some splendid views were taken.
Pittock Pass was assembled the next
day, and Pittock Peak was named
There now being only enough pro-
visions left for the return, the party
started back on the 18th Of July
with 60 pounds each and made two
days journey in one.
The last Thirteen miles of the gla-
cier were made in one day, IN
pouring rain. Camp Rodney was
reached late on July IS, and the
whole party started down the river In
the boat July 10. The journey to the
mouth of the Chulitna, which had
required six days of hard work to as
cend was made in four hours. Two
DAYS were lost at Talkeetna on ac-
count of bad weather, but on July ~
the party ran down IS miles OF the
Susitna to Susitna Station in nine
and three-fourths hours, coming in
to Seward by way of Turnagain Arm
and the Alaska Northern. Cool and
Ridley arrived Thursday and Rojec
and l got here last night. Cool and
Ridley left on the Alameda for Sc
attic this morning. ROjec and | will