The Democratic banner. (Mt. Vernon, Ohio) 1898-192?, 1910-07-12

dom should be allowed, the mode re.
quires tight band to be put around
the skirt just above the ankle to draw
all the fullness remaining into alb
surdly small width.
These skirts are very hard to make,
although at first glance they may not
seem to be SO. All lines run up and
down as much as possible, fiaring
slightly toward the hem, but being
held In place by band or fold of the
material. This makes it difficult to
give the requisite air of style to the
gown. But, for all that, very few long
skirts are to be seen.. Many gowns
intended for daytime wear have no
trains at all, and those that cannot
be called short lie on the floor.
Smoke-gray voile ninon, material
that lends itself to dressmaking more
easily than mousseline de sole, is be-
ing employed in the latest models for
the summer. A charming design is
carried out of gray voile over a foun-
dation skirt of white taffeta covered
with creamy mousseline de sole that
gives warm tone to the general ef-
feet of gray. If the short skirt is diff
ficult to make SO as to look we'll, the
new waist Is puzzle. 1t is univers-
ally cut in one with the sleeve. The
kimono sleeve is the general outline,
but with bunchy fullness under the
arm being avoided by a seam. The
desired effect is produced by always
making the waist over fitted lining,
with sleeves set in the regular should
er seam. Over the taffeta comes the
white mousseline de sole, and then the
voile, slightly gagged at the waist and
finishing at the hem with four-inch
band of gray taffeta. The bodice is
made entirely of white lace-Valencien-
mes, Malines, Chantilly or any thin
filmy weave-and shaped like an or
dinary blouse that can be worn with
or without the smoke-gray voile dress.
Over this lace blouse are crossed brac-
es of colored ribbon, toile de Jouy, or
rose cretonne, yelled with the gray,
material, giving just the
touch of underlined color that makes
the dress attractive.
The sleeves are of the transparent
lace, without lining covered with
the voile. A gray satin scarf, lined
with white satin, is draped around the
shoulders and falls in long ends from
the arms, tightly held across the back
with the pretty movement some wo-~
men know so well, and a gray hat
and white gloves make the prettiest
of toilets.
Satin scarfs are worn a great deal
in Paris. From morning till night the
graceful width of satin lined with
white is seen on each toilette of the
day, and again with the low dress at
dinners or receptions. The scarf
matches the dress in color, but is in
variably of the softest satin, be the
dress in mousseline de sole or en-
broidered lawn.
Maline is used to an ever increasing
extent as the season advances, not on
ly for yelling flowers and features
on hats, but for bows and loops on
hats, for neck bows and for yelling en-
tire costumes it has a distinct place
The rosette on the plain sailor hat
gives all the richness necessary. Fold
ed like a rose in round shape, a
bliss piece of Persian silk has been
so manipulated that its final effect
would suggest both expense and art.
Tailored costumes with the white
linen or the fine hair striped of black
or color are remarkably smart if made
UP with pipings of plain linen,
matching the color of the hair line.
Some of the pretty foulard petit
coats are finished with lace-trimmed
ruffles. A muslin ruffle under the out
er ruffle helps to lengthen the life of
the skirt.
The short coats range in length
from hip to within two inches of the
knees. So far the really short coat
and the Elton Jacket" have not gained
any secure position.
The new corset is a good deal lower
in the bust than was the case last
year. It's waist is still long, and it's
hips are narrow, straight and long.
Gilt buttons are used for trimmings
as well as for fastenings on the trim
linen suits for young girls.