The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-04-03

again In littIs motifs on the bodice and
sleeve. Black lace h dTaped below the
veil ed band Of green on the skirt and
used lightly on shoulders and sleeves.
OF tho tendency TO hold the shirt ful-
neas In toward the bottom We have spoken
often. but only a. the season advances
are the DISASTROUS Developments Of this
mode seen. Verify POiret. the revolution
airy dreaamaking artist who has impressed
himself 90 fOrcibly upon the dre~smaking
world OF Paris this season. has much to
answer for. He In responsible for the peas
ant skirt. by which h TO be understood
all the varisties of drawn in skirts, and
az ts best his idea. a. has been admitted
before. has muUh To commend Il. but the
trouble with this skirt 10 that Il demands
| a master artist hand In the designing. and
unfortunately the master artists q
dressmakinR arc few while the Audacious
bunglers are many.
n in skilled hands the Developments
Of the Poiret idea are freakish n often ~
beautiful and in the hands Of the bsmgler-
well. look about you and ses the lamen-
table results. There are always women
who will adopt any extreme style. whether
il h beautiful or not. and the manufac-
turers have provided for this class COS
TUNES which would be funny u they were
not 30 nearly tragic.
Last Saturday young woman appeared
on the avenue In a blue serge with short
belted coat and skirt WHOSE front breadth
was plain. while around sides and back
the skirt was pullsd into the vaistbAnd
and drawn into plain hand az tho bottom.
This hand was about q foot and q half
deep and with the plain front breadth
made the bottom OF the skirt Measure
not more than two yards. u that. Above
tho fulness hooped out barrelwiss. and .
moro ridiculous silhouette u would be
hard to imagine. yet the costume was Of
good materials and the wearer shufied
and minced alonR-she could not walk
freely-proudly convinced that tho heads
- all the paaseEsby turned 70 watch her
progress In profound admiration.
The peasant skirt II unquestionab bly,
adapted only u housc wear. and even
there IL must be- a gem Of its kind: 60
meadame-. unless you can afford to ern-
ploy q dre~smaker ~ the highest class
turn your back upon che Poiret skirt
Fortunately there are plenty Of grace
full models Of Other types. though IL mus;
be confessed that a majority &C the
French models insist upon a narrow.
limp skirt and a straight slenderness
70 line throughout the figure. There
are sporadic attempts among the great
dressmakers tn introduce fuller and more
houffant lines. hut the women have
proved INV Hing ~ give up the straight.
coIlante lines and the drc-smakers have
r.rforc~ bowed 20 the preference. The
sott veiinRS and drsperics soften the
clinging outlines. and On the whole the
l~.s extreme ~ ths seasons lines are
very graceful and wea-able.
CERTAIN mO0otoBy Of effect pro-
Goods from the almost universal Use
~ the modified japanese sleeve. Though
details vary there IL a striking resem-
bhance between the upper parts Of bodies
because ~ this sleeve w one With the
shoulder and usually falling in short
rather loos~ lines or used m theae same
lines over little IDdo-aleeVe 81 some
kind The -IeeS" whom prop~gly cut and
handled - generally becoming and gra~e-
ful bu, the Fat. plain effect across chest
and shoulder which often Accompanies
10 j. not becoming n sv~rv figure and
many women look better in a draped
NJ full bodice
Surplicc drzpe-v. hib arrangements.
.
upper part of the bodice aud l"~ev bosiic-.
sections full from a Nat yok" cui in one
With the sleeve. are all used. and il ~
possible 10 find something n sit every
figure.
The sketches illustrate various ar
ranSements of shoulder and sleeve and
these models all bear names 81 famous
makers. though. a. has been SAID before.
II haN AR Of a. al
InlucsiIy black and white drawings
give lees adequate impressions than
usual this season when 80 much depends
upon color schcnss.
One Of the OvsRest models We have
-~en ~ the Frakcis frock illustrated IN
me % the small cuts. a duh pink chiffon
Of exquisite tone veiling a bOrdsred Per-
sian silk. The bottom ~ tho skirt. tho
Kirdle aud plated bands are OF dun pink
silk and there ~ line 81 creamy white
hnishing the collarless neck. so much
one can describe. but To give an idea Of
the lovely melting color harmOnies 81
the Persian tones and their old pink veil
ing IL a hopeless task, and lacking com
prehensiOn Of that one has hut little
understanding ~ the models beauty.
Persian design and color gives the
oachet to a model from I.afeivi@re. hut
this time the Persian effect appears onlv
in a border upon n soft beautiful INV silk
OF white ground sprinkIed with little black
dots.
ground. and many OF the prettisst late
models are in wide or narrow strips.
gray and white or white and black being
a favored colOrnG. with the usual dash OF
bright color 60 liven the schsme. A smart
L. 4.