The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1910-10-31

BY Cynthia Grey

BY Cynthia Grey
A tailor-made suit Is the back
bone of your wardrobe, and don t
wear anything but plain tailored
suit, for few people look we'll in a
dressy suit. A dark suit is the
favorite, and is becoming to the
majority.
The model I have chosen will
give splendid general service, may
be worn on better" occasions, and
will be especially appropriate for
visiting, with your. pretty silk
blouse. The coat is the new hip
regulation fashionable thirty-two
Inch length and two-piece sleeve.
The skirt shows straight, slender
lines and has four cores. another
one of fashions mandates.
Five and one-half yards of ma
terial are needed. Don't buy loose
! ly woven stuffs; they sag readily.
Serge is one of the most reliable
materials. 1t comes in wide widths,
is loose in appearance, but firm in
texture. See that your material
will stand a considerable amount
of wear and tear. Fancy worsted
effects, broken diagonals and bas-
ket weaves in one or two shadesI
are also popular. You can get a.
good quality of any wooden cloth,
fifty-four inches wide, at Is cents
per yard. We will use a blue
serge for making our suit. Buy it,
already "shrunk." If it is not
"sponged, it will shrink and spot
readily.
Next select the Innings for the
coat. Get pretty striped SATIN
ette." 1t comes thirty-six inches
wide. at 81 " cents per yard. 1t
wears well and has fast color.
Other materials required areI
one-fourth yard of bias velvet for
collar, or one-half yard of
"moire antique" if you prefer it.
Velvet is the only material sold on
the blast. Also -four largo and
eight small buttons, at % centsl
and II cents per dozen, Iespect-l
lively; yard of soft finished
"shrunk" canvas; two spools of
silk and binding for seams to-
skirt.
Your suit will cost you:
u yards of 54-inch mate
rial, at rs cents 50. 13l
I31k yards of 36-inch lining,
at 81 ~ cents .......... 1.31
Il yard of 1S-inch velvet at
ST ........ .25I
1 yard of 24-inch canvas. -. ISL
Buttons, patterns and find
1ngs ........... .o3
1Oldl FO.DO
Buy coat pattern by bust meas
ure, and skirt pattern by waist
measure.
After alterations in both pat
terms have been made, but your
skirt, doubling material and fold
ing it lengthwise. Match notches
and don't forget your tailor's
tacks for perforation of inverted
pleats. Make as specified on pat
tern envelope.
AS this is your first attempt at
coatmaking, and cloth is too ex-
pensive to spoil. make a cheap pa
per muslin pattern of your coat
before attempting to cut material.
Basic and fit it. When defects
have been corrected, rip apart and
cut away allowance for seam
edges. Then fasten muslin pat
tern to cloth, and mark outline of
each section of pattern, bust and
waist line with tailor's chalk; per-
forations with tailor's tacks. and
cut material, allowing one-half
inch all the way around. Remove
pattern and thread-mark over
chalk marks. To do this, you
loosely haste through materials,
using double thread. When fin
ished, cut threads between the two
thicknesses of material which
leave markings on both pieces.
Have thread markings meet in
making.
To aid you in making this gar
ment. Let me give you a few bits
of advice. . We no longer use tiff
canvas, but depend on the con-
tractive lines of the coat for the
shape.
Catstitch your canvas pieces
and collar to coat before the first
fitting. After fitting, tape edges
which form lapel and eatstitch
canvas and cloth by invisible
stitches - which do not show
through on the right side-to have
coat retain Its shape.
In cutting lining, cloth and vel
wet for collar carefully mark per-
forations where collar turns and
stitch lining, cloth and canvas, as
Him frofad Tn focfp1 f..onfa eel