The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-04-24
RE In COATS POR SPRING
Less STIFFNESS FRR ETTOR1
90 LEADING TAILORA

Ter WuNnn1Nn on1 MoRo EaImoa WUn4
atm n Vavsp-NsgGelh Sssazsas A9An
Ths aAckcoAt n worn % much more than
any other garment thas 10 b % ehisf Ia
Ssrsss % ths great majority Of msa- Ths
sack coat of tho spring may no RoaahlR
described In . esw words. 10 viii b 81
moderate bsngth. IL win ho made NO vim
htte or no padding In the shOuldars ana
all features that might lmpart STIFFNESS
or Formality will bs lsft out by thu hsss
tAiloruL Yea combined with this lAcS %
lnsoFmality Il n imperative 70 have q aank
coat outline the figure distinctly and
above all smphanins the waist line. per-
haps that 10 the most important dstail
Of mems dress this summer. Although
thsFe Ia such an erect 81 lnformality thas
one Of the Nfth avenue tailors has called
a suit tho .PiaSa. lounge. there munt be no
haGRineas nor unnecessary looseness IN
the nc of q coat. o..
To 20 generally into the qualities % the
summer SACK without Speaking % the do
tails 10 might be added that thers are No
prssssd down revers on tho collars this
spring. They are turned hack % loosely
that thsy sometimea seem TO be no lonRsr
than tho button 10 which the coat happsns
20 be opsnsd at a particular Tins. There
IN also shade ls~s width IN trousers than
there used 10 he. There In. moreover.
still greater tendency 10 wear them shorA
10 had seemed a. 70 the height &c wh'oh
trousers had been worn by young men
who like to be IN tho vanguard OF pro-
nounced fashions could not be made any
more decided. hut there are Indications
that there will he this summer still more
of the cock or the top 81 the boot exposed
TO view s..
The sack coat - still cut with the open-
ing lower than that Of the waistcoat -
that u In visible. while there are flaps ON
the change pocket an we'll ~ the two sids
pockets. The handkerchief pocket 10
indeed the only one that escapes the nap.
since the minute the tailor begins TO 10
informal in his STYLES he also wants 70.
put on ~ MANY hapS a. possible. The
turned hack cuff that finishes the sleeve
haS a button 20 ornament ". The coea-
should ~ cut away at the bottom. since
10 there il one stvIe that has alto@ethsr
disappeared IL is the sack coat that clusee
right down To the bottom.
The lapel In 80 wide this year as to make
a coat almost have the effect Of double
breasted garment This gives q certain
breadth 20 the figure which used 20 be
secured by the padded shoulders. The
collar Of the coat il Of course nosiceably
narrower than the lapel. A detail some
OF the tailors are adding this year Ia tho
bringing OF the OUTSIDE seam around to tho
front Of the sleeve At the cuff. This xivss
the effect q an inward curve that has
great value To thoee careful dreesers who
must have the latest styles. The waiss-
coat OF course has no collar nowadays
and IL IL considered excessive 20 have tho
coat 80 cut that more than two buttons
show az the neck opening.
In aplte Of the smartness % . sack coat
there are always men who feel the call 20
invest in q business cutaway Whenever
the time 20 take 81 their overcOats arrives.
These men II may be added. are likely 30
he older than thoss VINO are devoted 10
the sack coat and az q rule they are likely
10 he somewhat more rotund in figure.
This year thew are more numerous than
ever, since there has been . tsndsncy co
make the garment fashion able for all
ages In tweeds aud other rough Goods
there has been a considerabls demand Tor
thsas sslits. The idea IN these coats 10 20
give heig 60 the Wearer while decreasing
at the same time his Rirth. There arc
only two buttons on most OF these coata
and the side pockets which are covered
nv Aaps are inserted in the seam that
ioins the skirt 10 the body OF the coat.
There il also a Zap over the handkerchief
pocket which iE not found IN the sack OF
the year. These fans are in reality 20
distinguish the business c'Itaway from
The more dreesy morning coat Of diagonal
and braid. shade OF novelty 10 impaired
to this coat by the straightness OF the
seams in the hack. They curve a. slightly
a. those in the sack coat and the eject OF
this u to make the wearer look shghte,
1ailorS are prophesytng the introduo-
ton Of the Norfolk jacket a. a coat for
town wear 90 an extent that was never
known before OF courpe this announce
ment brings interest TO only very young
men. since u would be daring person
Of over rs who would drees himself up
in such a coat to parade Fifth avenue
Of wider interest n the fact that the black
rnided cutaWay u the modish dress
Of springtime for mankind. " h the coat
that has been most freuuentIy seen &C
the spring wedding and will he worn until
the season 10 far enough advanced 70
assume the still more formal sack suit
whatever the occasion may be This
coat is of course beet IN the widewale
and also most dressy In that
goods, but at the same time any single
colored goods either dark gray OF black
OF rough or smooth finish may be used.
There had usually been until this season
two buttons on these coats. but tailoFp
soon found out that their customers
were buttoning only one In order 20 get
the deep lapel effect and turning that
rack So this year the most modish coat
has only the one button and the deep
lapel that really ends almost at the bottom
Of the coat.
The eHcct II this coat should he 10 make
the wearer look a. slim a. possible and 10
Ats closely over the shoulders. into the
waist line at the hack and also shows
the inward bend % the waist &C the sidea.
That the coat should nc 90 tight, however.
as to have the effect Of corsets 10 noe
desirable. The diagonal cutAway has
only one Zap on the change pocket md
even the handkerchief pocket h with
out IT, There 10 allowed some variety
in the matter Of the sleeve nnish. which
10 smart when a cuh 10 put on with braid
about the upper edge and button
in the centre.
There are men who viii be glad TO hear
that the double breasted sack coat " 20
come once more into fashion. II u be-
coming TO stout men In spite OF the pro-
theory that u h not. 10 oon-
ceala their too. too visible curves. ThtB
yeas'a model Of q SACK coat IL most mts
tractivo in its details. The coat n mod
crate in length and tits tightly about the
---s-a ,-sek Kill aEfwaa Tk@v.a - No. s~~.nu.