The National tribune., 1910-01-27

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Of two or three, but just the general
impression of morning thoroly en-
joyed, which has left me with the keen
est sort of a desire to some day revisit
this wonderful gallery with time enough
to really study the pictures intelligently.
Yesterday We took q drive. You re-
member your Uncle P. lived in this city
for about 10 years, part of the time as
a gay bachelor and part as Benedict,
the married man. / was rather curious
to see the house to which he took your
Aunt NJ, then a beautiful young bride,
and where they lived In almost princely
fashion Cor so it seemed to mel for sew
eral years. My imagination had pic
tured this building as little short of
palace, and l was quite disappointed to
find 1t simply a rather modern hand
some house. Antwerp is considered the
most interesting city in Belgium. It
isn't beautiful like Brussels. but is far
more quaint Gn spots) and picturesque.
AS l told you in my last letter, it stole
Bruges's commercial prosperity in the
early part of the 18th century. and at
that time numbered 125,000 inhabitants,
which was quite n town for those days.
1t was then the richest and most pros
porous place on the continent, rivaling
even Venice itself. The Schelde was
filled with vessels from all parts of the
gave the merchants of the civilized
countries an excellent excuse for rum
ming away from the restraints of family
life for awhile in order to attend them.
Godfrey de Bouillon, our crusade friend
was Margrave of Antwerp at one tune,
which means that he had the deciding
of things in that important city. The
disappointment / had experienced at
first in finding Antwerp so modern in
appearance passed away during this
drive. The old part of the city is de-
ciGedly medieval, full of narrow streets,
Iscarcely more than alleys, and over the
entrance of most of the stone houses,
black with age. is a statue of the Vir-
gin, with the Holy Child in her arms.
One view was deliciously picturesque.
The driver stopped the horses and
called our attention TO it. 1t is evident
ly one of the sights of the city. At the
end of narrow street were the ruins
OF an old convent, and at one side the
curve Of d small stone archway gave
viStas of the street beyond. I'm sure it
must have been painted hundreds Of
times. and you may have seen pictures
representing il, but ] never have. STILL
you have to go out of your way to find
these old bits; generally the town has
very modern look. There is one beau
tiful broad residence street, lined by
handsome houses and all around the
handsome hotels and theatcrs What
its present population IS / cannot say.
but about 10 years ago it was 305, 800.
Its steamer traffic is very great, as, of
course, you well know. Antwerp is the
principal arsenal of Belgium, and is one
of the strongest fortresses in Europe. 1t
is we'll defended by forts and massive
ramparts, eight miles in length, and ii
is calculated that it would take 8n
army of 100000 to besiege it and at
least a year to reduce it by starvation.
Part of the environs can be placed un-
der water, after the fashion of Amster-
dam, in case of an invading army.
But / must tell you about Rubens's
masterpiece in the old Cathedral before
we both get tired out Your Aunt E.
and l went there this afternoon, so the
whole thing is very fresh in my mem
ory. Elizabeth was obliged to hunt for
some Isle thread stockings (the need |
of them had unexpectedly come to herr, |
so she went off to the shops instead of |
us. The Cathedral, which |
dates from the 14th century, faces the I
public square, and is the largest church |
in the Netherlands. In it are three of |
Eubens's pictures, his sO-called MASTER |
piece, The Descent from the Cross |
The Elevation of the Cross" and the |
picture of the Virgin over the altar, |
called The Assumption" said to be one
VI titS ~ DtSl Wien we entered Ine /
vast building, dimly lighted, the soft.
sweet notes of an organ played by some |
one in a distant part of the church,
could be distinctly heard, and you can
imagine how greatly this helped to
create an atmosphere" Facing each
Of the three pictures We're a group Of |
chairs, and your aunt and ! seated our
selves at once before the Descent"
never budging for three-quarters of an
hour, anyway, L am sure. This truly
great picture is in three parts, a CEN
trail scene and two panels or wings, as
believe they call them. The right
wing represents the infant Jesus in the
arms of st. Christopher. while opposite
TO him stands q hermit in a black robe.
regarding the baby with the most natur-
al look of delight on his face, just the
same look that everyone has when there
IS baby around. The other panel rep
'esents the Virgin in a wonderful blue
gown and basket in her hands, calling |,
Jn Eliza beth. Whether the basket con-
aimed a few fresh eggs and pat of
her own butter We are not told; but, of
course, there was something in that
basket No, ] am mistaken; Mary didn't
nave the basket: it was third woman,
and the guide book tells US that the |;
wife and daughter of Rubens furnished |,
he faces for these two. l.
But the central picture, Favorite
|
taking Christ down from the cross. and
his body IS resting on a sheet, one end
# which is held in the mouth Of a man
al the head OF the cross. Others are |
around helping. The figure Of
,Hrist is wonderfully natural and grace
.dl. Three of the Marics are present L
bn" of whom wears blue robe. The /
'"loring is beautiful. 1t is diff
.ult 10 put into cold words the effect
II such picture on you. 1t Is casy
enough to understand, tho while look
ng at it, the hold Catholicism must
have had in the old days on the minds
II the people. The vast Cathedral, these
great canvases, with their
sacred subjects, combined with the
splendid music and the Spectacular
ceremonies of the Church. ONLY /
John Knox could successfully with
stand such an appeal
The Elevation" is fine, but NOT So
inished. 1t also is in one central pic
ure and two wings, one of which rep
'esents group of women and children
regarding the elevation Uhe central
Dlcture) with horror on their faces, enc
;hild clinging to her mother Can ex-
remey Rubenesque creature) as a
,hlld would when frightened. The
igures are larger than those in
ne other picture, but still very
Ifelikc. In the central picture
he Christ nailed on the cross. Is
being borne up a narrow, rocky path
me perspective is remarkable. The
Dther wing represents men on horse
PACK, urging on the thieves, who are to
De ChristS S companions on Calvary. ri
lld not care so much for the altar pic- l.
-ure or the virgin. and shall not take