davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
The Newest Brocades
WITH all the beauty Of other days
wv and the suppleness Of this sea-
w sons fabrics. the brocadeS have

MYTH all the beauty Of other days
wv and the suppleness Of this sea-
sons fabrics. the brocades have
come back into the fashionable realm,
and are .deservedly occupying first
place.
They are very much favored in Paris
Indeed. they are now used for the pfin-
cess slips. over which are dra ped tunes
and veilings of net. chiffon or lace
Wonderful effects are shown in colors
through which is run gold or silver
beautiful colors and metallic threads
are used for the newest fur-trimmed
evening wra ps. You cannot imagine the
exquisite beauty Of these silk fabrics.
Brocaded velvets are very much in
evidence. They are combined with
satins. laces and fur and are made into
hoods, wraps, evening gowns and slip
pers. Perhaps the prices Of these beau
tiful materials are a trife high. but
more effective on gown than two Of
the usual trimming.
collars, revers. bands and facings can
De made of these brocades When used
on the outer garments as trimming
they are very effective when worked
up with beads green leaf here and
there can be made solid by little beads
or perhaps the background of silk can
be emphasized by beads that will throw
velvet forms into marked relief
As Innings for wraps these brocades
present many opportunities. They wear
well and the surfaces of most or them
are well covered. The colors harmonize
with nearly all the shades and the rich
ness OF a brocade lining is undeniabIe.
Do not neglect to buy a real bargain
ID procades II you have an opportunity.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
Baby s SacQue

TTAvE you ever thought Of crepe
for this little lounsing robe Z?
- 1t is soft. inexpensive and
warm. It also takes the hand en-
brotdery that you probably wish to
add.
The circular pattern il very good.
Slashes at the sides of fronts and
back will make the kimono sleeves,
These can be tied into place by baby
ribbon.
Some imported sacques show the
Introduction of beadwork. White fiat
beads worked in dainty designs on coll
to busy fingers. Embroidery and bead
work are combined on many Of these
sacQues.
Little lace collars are now hand
made and added to flannel sacques al
a soft snowy touch. They can be re-
moved, for they are attached by rib
bons to crocheted rings at the top.
Quilted sacques are quite easily
made Of china silk over waddinG.
Handwork is used, and the tiny
squares OF crossed stitches are the
most usual form OF the quilting.
Lilies Of the-valley. tiny forget-me-
nots, little daisies and rosebuds dro
appropriate for embroidery on the
baby's sacque.
Last Of all, have two or three Of
these little kimonos or sacques. SO
that the little one will be warm, al.
ways clean and will rejoice in q
variety of ''negligees."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
Evening Wraps
\ HE lines are straight. loose ana

TINE lines are straight. loose and
- Sleeves are ample and are of the
kimono type There is no seam at the
armhole, although few have the ma
terial Joined at the top line of the
shoulder. extending down into the sleeve
portion. This is for narrower velvets,
satins, etc.
Huge revers are quite evident. One
usually crosses over to the side and
fastens under jeweied buttons or corded
ornaments
Sailor collars. straight or with modi-
ned lines are chic on evening wraps.
The collars may be Of lace, fur or en-
broidered net.
Tassels CT silk, gilt or silver are
used to weight revers and collars. With
them cords to match are excellent for
outlining cages
Velour. brocaded velvets and satins
AID silk tapestry effects are the fabrics
most used
Every wrap has a lovely lining Use
full, too. must this be. Large pockets
for coin purses and handkerchiefs, and
outtoned securely over the openings. are
the main features. These are shirred
or pleated TO relieve strain.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
The Latest
In BlOuses

= UST as a rest from tho ever-com-
polling questions Of dress come again
= new ideas in blouses. They are beau
tiful in lines and colors and occur In
such variety that every woman should
be suited.
There's the velvet blouse. for instance.
It is a natural outcome Of the reign Of
velvet. and for women who cannot wear
the filmy chiffon and net blouses this
favorite material promises modish com.
fort
Velvet blouses are made to adhere
rather closely to the lines Of the figure.
No fullness is used at the shoulder line.
and generally the front and back are
plain. This allows the sleeves and
bodice to be cut In one piece from tho
ordinary width Of velvet Tho sleeves
are short. but can be edged with broad
bands of silk. braid or perhaps fur. In
nearly every case. sub-cuffs or lace or
net lengthen the velvet form. The yoke
and collars are transparent.
Now az 70 trimming. Tho velvet
blouse Is very fine as a background for
a military decoration. Cords. buttons,
braid in colors or in metallic shades
are much in vogue. These are quite
simply applied. the straight lines OF
loops on the front and shoulders being
easily made and very stunning.
A cascade Of inch lace is q touch that
is elegant. especially on black velvet.
Deep revers OF satin. too. are in order.
while Persian and Japanese embroidery
enrich a blouse Of velvet In q wonder.
full way
Ninon de sole, marQuisette chiffon and
cotton wolfe are the favorite materials
for other blouses. The lines ON which
these are cut are simple. Innings Of
silk, lace or net are inevitable and ire
quently the whole trimming 10 under
the slip-just one Of the outcroppings
OF the hidden beauty of the hour
Perhaps white porcelain beads ara the
most effective. They are applied on ir-
regular plaques. as bands to outlins
yokes. and the very latest is the hand
application OF beads In q tiny conven-
tional design on the entire surface OF
the blouse
The bolero line is suggested in many
blouses. A strip of colored satin 10
brought from the seams under the arms
and pointed up toward the center Of
the front and back Metallic lace IL
used in similar fashion and butterfly
bows Of tulle. silk or chiffon velvet
burst from the beautiful Innings at I'M
expected places. The result is charm.
ing.
Satin blouses are made quite like
these others. The satin must match in
color the shade Of the suit. II Il does
not, there is the white satin blouse
made military style. trimmed with
black, gold or silver.
No longer is the blouse the iu-nttinr
bulky 'ready-made' garment of other
years. 1t Is now a thing Of beauty and
satisfying to wearer and to observer.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
edEing on the butterfly bow.

edging on the butterfly bow.
A simple frock Of black velvet forms
the next design. It Is cut almost on the
lines Of the robe bebe," the upper part
Of the blouse being of chiffon over lace.
The buttons on the bib are Of dull
silver.
The hat. . round cloche shape, Is OF
black velvet faced with ermine, and
with Q white chantecler plume in back
How velvet is used in the dressy suit
il shown by the next model. Alice blue
velvet Is used here. but dark blue or
green would really be better. The sailor
collar Is Of MORE to match the velvet
and Is edged with skunk fur. The turn
back cuffs match the collar in effect.
The dashing military hat is of black
velvet. with a high aigrette either Of
paradise feathers or Of fur made in the
shape Of q quill.
Very like the second figure. but hav-
ing q distinct charm of its own, Is the
one-piece frock of black velvet with
bodice Of tucked black chiffon over
white. The buttons are again Of dull
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
Fashion Notes
From Paris
PARIS, Dec. Is.

PARIS, Dec. ID.
DY THE time that this reaches you
X we will be writing our Christmas
~ greetings on our cards for the
day. Just now. however. wheI
the eternal feminine is not buying gifts
she essays a peep into the establish
ments In the shopping districts, and her
curiosity Is not without reward. Modistes
over here know no end of their work.
Every week there are expectations OF
some new lines. combinations or fab
rics. The world of fashion is as
euredly an interesting piacei
Little toques Of fur are now built very
high and worn very low over the head.
Ermine, opossum and chinchilla are the
favorite furs OF which they are fash
ioned, and the owners wear these simple
chapeaux with long velvet coats In the
afternoons. Muffs carried with these
wraps usually match the velvet OF the
manteaux and are trimmed with fur to
match the hats.
smart dress worn at q very exclu.
sive luncheon the other afternoon was
Of black velvet yelled with white chif-
ton. Unusual wasn't it? Ermins
formed a deep hem on the tunic and
edged the ha!f-length sleeves.
Black charmeuse trimmed with or.
mine is another idea for afternoon
dresses
For tailored suits there are shown
models by Drecoll, Paquin, Bechon-
David and the Ney Soeurs that en-
phasize the vogue for immense col.
lars. Fancy a Bordeaux ratine with a
large collar Of chinchilla; or a black
and gray striped ratine trimmed with q
huge collar Of black velvet and white
corduroy, ornamented with smoked
pearl buttons! Immense collars of col.
ored satin and velvet are much used on
the new suits. They promise a popular
acceptance by the well-dressed.
AT the little oriental restaurant at
the entrance Of the Bots afternoon
Yea is served to groups Of we'll
dressed Parisiennes, who motor out
Tor the friendly cup
For evening there is q decided
1avoritism being accorded to yellow
In combination with all shades Of
green.
The most effective evening gowns
are of cloth of gold with velvet
figures. the entire foundations yelled
with jeweled gauzes and chiffons.
Some exquisite color alliances for
formal occasions are. peacock blue
Chiffon over orange brocade, cerise
chiffon over silver gray. lavender net
over an intense blue. both over cloth of
silver
Jabots trimmed with fur, are used
with separate blouses Here is an
idea for little ieft-overs after the fash
toning of scarfs and nnuffs Tiny
bows of ern1ine. edgings OF skunk fur
combined with lace and pieated frills
OF net are displayed in little lingerie
shops and in the greater establish
ments' that. being truly Partisan. con-
slider nothing too small for their at.
tention.
Embroidered cotton voiles will be
the materials for lingerie dresses Of
the coming season. Many will be
embroidered with white or colored
porcelain beads when the heavy,
padded embroidery is not used.
Before the new year knocks at our
door there will be formulated few
startling changes in fashions. There
is a promising air of mystery when
the sanctum of a great designer is in
vaded. So be patient and wait
ELOISE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
Fur-Trimmed Hats

~ ESPITE the warning of the physi-
clan and the prophecy Of the head
- ache. woman is wearing hats that
are heavy-but, oh so beautiful!
The fur-trimmed hat is not a surprise
to US In this season of fur. 1t is lovely
In its new form and Is an excellent way
to use the small pieces that the furrier
returns to you
Can YOU imagine a large nat shape of
coral silk for evening trimmed with the
softest gray fur: Steel gray 1t Is, and
1t outlines the brim In a two-inch band.
At the side OF the crown is q fur cabo-
chon in a wheel effect. with a central
disk Of steel beads. These beads arc
embroidered over the brim and part OF
the crown. Tho whole Is a beautiful
exploitation of the two most popular
trimmings for women's garments.
Another black velvet shape is of the
low. oval-crowned variety edged with
fur. This IS the expensive ermine. and it
is repeated In the edging on an immense
lace bow placed at the back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

If you but pinch the upturned br1m to-
gether at each side and pin the hat from
the back. the hatpins holding the shape
on the head
In other words. this hat Of many
moods Is ready for anything ana nils
the requirements Of the most exacting
owner. It will change from one to
another, retaining one characteristics
through all phases-that Of . comfort.
able becomingness that should b haileG
with joy.
having a bone. horn or mother-Of-pearl
exterior, conceals its equipment OF cut
lery in a manicure buffet! Or. in more
common parlance. q nail pOlisher. The
buffer Is made Of dark leather and has q
stitched strap handle on top. The under
side is of padded chamois. and between
the leather and the channels is the re-
ceptacle in which fit cuticle knives. flles
and scissors.
Fur as a trimming is as greatly used q
feature In children's frOcks as it Is In
their elders
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

case. shaped like a mans billfold. opens
out nat and attached to the lining OF
moire silk. which. of course matches the
outer layer of buffed calf. are various
pockets, containing a chiffon veil-also
matching the int of the leather case
a veil pin, a comb for smoothing wind.
disturbed tresses. a small mirror. q nat
smelling bottle and powder pun. The
last named accessory Is particularly clever.
for the useful little lambs wool pun il
Enclosed in the center of q dainty silk
handkerchief. SO that one may be busting
ones complexion with taIcuW while seem.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

TT HAS nothing to do with the sea,
although 1t comes over the water
- from Paris and II you wish can be
worn on board the ocean liner. It il as
varying in shape, as the mythical god
from whom 1t takes Its name, and very
much more comfortable than that we'll
known gentleman.
II you buy this accommodating hat. Il
Will probably como home to you In .
new Martin restaurant one afternoon last
week. had these little arrows embroidered
on the blue In slightly darker shade
Each arrow was three inches long. the
crosspieces on the tail being, Of course
very near the pointed head There were
three arrows on either side OF the bodice
front and three down the outer side OF
each sleeve.
The New Winding Draperies.
THROUGH its name rather unpleasantly
suggests the gld,time winding sheet,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25
Notes and Novelties.

Another Luxury for Fair Motorists.
CANTA CLAUS has been slipping an
~ other dainty belonging into the
Christmas stocking of the woman who
motors this year This Is charmingly
dainty case of tinted leather which may
be carried by a strap over the finger, like
a pocketbook. and which holds all the i'm
mediate needs Of the automobilist The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

IN HE craze for velvet IL nowhere
more clearly seen In the Queen
City of Fashion than In the
afternoon gown, hat and wrap.
The reason for this is. of course. easy
to discern: 1t Is to semidress gowns OF
not too severe cut that velvet-most Of
all, black velvet-is especially adapted.
1t is pretty in the coats also. however.
See the first model today as an instance.
1t is long coat Of silver gray or tan
velvet. with ratine sailor collar and
cuffs. The coat itself IL lined with
ratine Of the same shade
Black velvet edging makes an effective
touch. OF course, IL this were an even
Ing wrap. 1t might boast a lighter selec-
ton Of colors-say white velvet, with
rose lavender satin cuffs and collar.
But it Is very smart just as it is in the
tan or gray and black.
The hat 10 one of the very new high
velvet turbans. just like that worn by.
Mile. Lauteline in ''Marchand de Bon
hour" 1t Is trimmed only by silk braid
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

long. nat box. There will be no "han-
S Sesuty e t. You can crush 1 L n ye sas
hands and roll It into any shape. and it
will bob UP serenely, ready for another
experiment on your part.
The shape 10 Of flexible beaver and re-
ssmbles q huge brimless clowns hat.
surface IL attached 2 cabochon Of braid
or beads or jewels. Inner. you say?
Yen, for In tho twists or turns that
the new winding gown" is really rather
charming as well as a decidedly striking
creation. Over q satin foundation yards
Of deep lace houncing arc arranged in
spiral fashion, beginning at the waist
line on one side and continuing round
and round the skirt until the hem has
been reached; The upper edge of lace
only is attached to the satin skirt, the
lower edge falling free without fullness,
and over the whole Is dropped tunic of
chiffon which keeps the lace fat and also
partially softens the spiral trimming eff
feet SOMETHING'S line Of metallic en-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

becomes the outer.
A Tyrolean shape is shown. This IL
obtained by bending up the brim at one
side and drawing 1t down narrower and
to q point on the other side. The crown
Is kept in its original pointed shape.
Suppose that you wish a round form.
Your fatpdns will do the work, pushing
In the brim at the sides and back. The
crown In this case Is pressed down and
the change is complete.
Then . Little Corporal effect il yours
broIoery follows the top of the lace
cleaning through the chiffon tunic will
much the same effect-on the narrow Skin
of a corkscrew. At the bottom Of these
costumes there Is usually the inevitable
dark band Of fur.
A Jackknife in Disguise.
WYE are used to seeing all sorts of i'm
!" plements. from manicure scissors t.
corkscrews. tucked into the capacious in
terror of horn jackknife, but here is q
new sort Of jackknife. which, instead Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

ing to be merely wiping of the dust Of
travel.
Arrows q New Fad.
nOTS have had their day. Now the
woman who embroiders is working
little blunt arrows on her frocks and
shirt waists. the little arrows being placed
in rows. one beneath the other. and all
pointing the same way. An afternoon
frock Of dull blue marquisette over silk Of
the same color, which was worn at the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-12-25

Raccoon 10 widely used on both dark
and light BACKGROUNDS. 1t being a longer
haired fur. is generally all that is re-
quired for trimming.
II the question of brims or separate
crowns be under consideration, sealskin
IN tho genuine or imitation is the most
Favored. 1t wears well and fits rich
brown harmondzes with all colors Chin
chilla Is just as beautiful. but less dur
able. 1t combines with bright coral.
green. blue or orange with fine effects.
From huge crowns for turbans to just
few ddsks Of fur on large velvet hat
this gray peltry claims your admiration.
Turbans with bands Of fur at the
bases Of their crowns are evident. If
the supply permits. you may add q bind
Ing Of the same fur on the under sur
face Of tho brim. This style, by the
way. Is just as effective for young faces
a. for older ones. Fur-trimmed mil
hnery then. II you can afford it. il the
latest cry from PariS.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1910-10-28
BELL HAS SEVENTEEN
SPEECHES ON DAYS TRIP
Democratic Candidate to Make a
Circuit of the Citrus Belt
Tomorrow

Theodore Bell will made seventeen
speeches tomorrow, when he will
make the circuit of the Kite-shaped
track. 4 special coach is to be at
tached to the big BellSpellacy special
which will leave Los Angeles over the
Santa Fe Kite-shaped track at S:15
o'clock a. m. The extra coach has
been made necessary by the demand
for tickets which has exceeded the ex-
pectation o; those in charge of the
whirlwind tour of the citrus reg ons.
Richmond Plant, one of the local
Democratic leaders, who will person.
ally conduct the Bell-Spellacy .eXcur-
sion, stated that under the new ar
rangements there will be room to ac-
commodate everyone, and all Demo-
Gratis or Republicans who are inter-
ested in Mr.. Bells campaign can now
be accommodated if they desire to ac-
company the Democratic standard
bearers on the kite-shaped tour.
Tickets are on sale at AIS Fay build
ing, or can be had at the offices of the
Democratic state central committee, or
of the county central committee, which
are on the same floor. TIE charge is
$3.50 for the round trip. There will be
a public dinner and reception to Mr..
Bell and Mr.. Spellacy at Redlands, and
in the evening a banquet automobile
and torchlight parade and rally at
Santa Ana.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1910-10-28
JUDGE SWOONS IN CAR
FOLLOWING HARD WORK
Strain of Long Confinement in
Court Proves Too Much
for Mccormick

Hard work is not always healthy,
particularly when it involves mental
strain and close confinement indoors.
The moral to this lesson can be found
in the rather startling fact that yes
terday, when Judge Paul Mccormick
went down to assume his labors on
the bench, he was caught in faint
ing spell on a street car. For
time considerable alarm was eVlnceo
by his fellow passengers.
In commenting upon this one OF
Judge McCormick's friends said yes
terday:
Judge Mccormick has been sitting
on the bench now about three months
and has declined to take any vacation.
even with the temptation before him
to assist his political opportunities in
his Independent candidacy for his I'M
expired term to succeed himself as su-
perior Judge. Close application to the
duties of his position, however, has
caused considerable anxiety to his
family and friends. Since his incumb-
ency he has been shifted from one
department to the other, handling
many arduous cases, and has had the
term trial jury in his department since
October /.
During the short time OF his occu-
pancy of the bench, Judge Mccormick
has tried more cases than any of the
other judges of the superior court or
this county for the same period HIS
work has been most diversified, con-
sisting of all kinds of civil cases, and
also one weeks time has been spent
in the criminal department in trying
criminal cases. Since the first of Oc-
tober he has been working on an aver
age of nine hours day, rs many jury
cases which have occupied his time
since that date have gone rar into
the night and required his constant
attendance in the court room. He has
had some very important matters as
signed to his department since his oc-
cupancy of the bench. Notable among
the cases which he has decided, was
the case involving the removal of the
garbage reloading station, wherein he
held that the same was q nuisance and
ordered it's removal from its present
location"
Judge Mccormick was not at his
usual position on the bench yesterday
but his indisposition will not deter him
from resuming his duty as judge in
the morning.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1910-10-28
JOHNSON GETS HEARTY
WELCOME At SANTA ANA
Republican Candidate for Cover
nor Holds Big Meeting in
Orange County

SANTA ANA, Oct. 27-The biggest
political event in the history of Orange
county took place tonight with the
visit of Hiram Johnson to this city.
AS all his meetings over this county
had been abandoned people poured in
from every nook and corner of the
county and filled Surgeons hall to
overlooking to hear the Republican
candidate for governor
Preceding the big meeting Johnson
was welcomed with a monster demon
stration in which a long procession
of automobiles, the blare of bands
and the burning of red fire were en-
livening features. The gubernatorial
candidates party arrived here about
$3.50 and after dinner reviewed the
parade.
The meeting at Surgeons hall was
called to order by Attorney q. e..
Keech and was presided over by J..
p. Baumgartner, editor of the Santa
Ana Daily Register Some sixty vice
presidents were seated on the plat
FORM among this number being In
cluded prominent Republicans from
different parts of the county.
Johnson, the only speaker, delivered
his set speech, declaring that the Re
publican parry has thrown the railroad
out of the party and it now remains
for the people to throw 1t out of the
state government by placing the DOM
inant party, freed of the railroad, in
control. He declared that Theodore A.
Bell is allied with Hearst, whom Bell
denounced four years ago, and said
that the railroad is seeking his (John-
son's) defeat.