Omaha daily bee., 1910-01-09

9AENER has lingerie been so elaborate ~
never before has so much attention been
paid to cut, At, and finish. Although the
n lingerie OF the moment is more exqui-
R- sitely himsy than ever before much
IBf9kYaN thought Is given TO its endurance. Lace.
KR1G&&E which gave place for a short time to
- delicate hand embroidery, is again in
vogue, but instead of the conventional narrow vslen-
ciennes inserting and edgings' huge medahtons OF
embroidered handkerchief linen.
The countless stitches that are required to make up
the lingerie shown this season necessitatea a vast
amount OF labor, and where the garments are i'm
ported the prices asked are not within reach OF the
average woman. But II one is handy with the needle
the expense Of these garments is ridiculously small,
a fact OF which you can easily convince yourself by
glancing at the imported lingerie models shown on
the page.
II one does not care for the hand sewing or her
time is limited, good effects may be obtained by fine
sewing machine stitches. In the embroidsriss shown
for corset covers eyelet designs are good. but the
English open effects are better. Much favor is also
shown the Lorraine embroideriea, which are a good
imitation OF the hand embroidered goods so much
used on corset covers and combination sets. The en-
broidery is especially good and often as effective and
durable as the Amer &na more expensive hand en-
broidery. The English openwork embroideries include
inssrtings, medallions, nouncings, and headings.
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The newest lingerie designs show no influence of
the empire style. Even in night gowns they all indi-
cate that the waist has moved down. for the belts
that are In evidence sncircle the figure just above the
hips, not just below the bust A great many Of the
practically the same size check as proved so popular
In last seasons lingerie.
bhopSA0pS1 AuA @shOA law NSSh
relegated to the past. The princess model in combi-
nation with drawers and corset covers and in petit
coats, long and short, that ut without a wrinkle, are
the present day demands in lingerie. The combination
skirt and corset cover or corset cover and drawers
made in the most elaborate fashion of the finest main
sock and great quantities of insertings. But for the
fact that 1t is worn beneath, 1t has all the appear
ance OF a charming gown,
The ht of these garments is most important. for it
must curve into the ngure nicely and not a sugges-
ton Of a seam or wrinkle be allowed to show. Some
are even made with castings on the lower side, Into
which whalebones are slipped, and with these the
corset is frequently dispensed with. Another thing to
take into consideration In the making of these gowns
Is that as nearly all skirts and drawers are cut cir
cular. great care must be taken that the finished gar
ment does not sag.
The every day house frock receives important con-
sideration this season. We have advanced Tar from
the day when any cloth skirt and shirt waist made
up the costume for house wear. 1t took women a
long while to discover the fallacy Of this costume as
a conventional one. The adjustment of q shirt waist
with it's many accessories, all fresh and all in the
best OF order, was never an easy matter. A belt
could never be put ON carelessly. a collar takes time
to adjust properly. and a cravat often is clumsy.
Another temptation is the tendency that even the
best Eroomed woman is occasionally a victim to-
that Of putting on the waist just once too often.
Therefore the popularity of the one piece house frock
now has been assured.
As the frock stands today, IL il made without a
boned lining, is held in place by q three inch ntted
girdle of betting, and there is a soft body lining. The
skirt is extra short. the neck usually is finished with
a wide Peter Pan collar OF lace or lingerie, The
blouse part of the frock is arranged in tucks or small
plaitB ana the Fastening usually IL III NJ dck
Sleeves are long and entirely of the material or have
a lower half sleeve of net or some contrasting ma
terial. The skirt is cut with a slightly high waist
and Joined to the blouse under a fitted band OF the
material.
The fabrics for these comfortable frocks are many.
nut the most favored are the soft woolens, worsteds,
hepherd's plaids, and foulards. They se trimmed
with bands of embroidery. braiding, pipings. or rib
bon,
All the new petticoats that are not made in combi-
nation are cut circular, with absolutely no fulness
at the top. They are OF the finest nainsook or linen
lawn. and from the knees down there Is q shaped
hounce. These are elaborate. sometimes OF English
eyelet embroidery or of the still finer French work
A novel idea Is the addition OF an extra hounce OF net
below the one of embroidery and lace, This is tucked
aud finished with a narrow edge. 1t looks pretty and
funny, washes well, and is a change from the muslin
one.
The tendency in silk petticoats is largely in favor
Of plain colors OF the same shade as the gown itself
sometimes a pretty combination Of coiors is chosen
such as a green underskirt with a gray gown or a
rose with a tan. The matching shades. however, are
by far the better taste,
A number of most attractive wash models ar,
ehown in ginghams, seersuckers. ehambrays, linens
and pongees. Some pretty stripes are also seen. A
popular trimming in these petticoats is a nounee EN-.
broidered TO give the effect Of handwork. Thi
usually consists of a scallop with few dots or flowers
above It.
The correct features OF the corset OF the momsn
are long. slender lines, with slightly incurving waists
the fiat erect preserved absolutely across the front
with a slight spring at the back and sides. Some o
the newest spring models show a little more fullnes
at the hips. indicating a return to the more curvlnI
lines While this change is indicated in a degree. tn
ndHbe - sllBhI Inc corset lines OF n last coupl
OF seasons are lines Of health and comfort. The pres
emit fashion OF the hipless, straight back figure /
nearer than ever to that of a perfect woman.
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A corset TO NJ properly should not be too tight no
too LOOSE II should not be pulled down too far on tn
figure. The Earters should be fastened In exactly tn
right place. The right corset is a big help to prope
breathing and correct carriage. The first prinoipl
to remember In fitting a corset is that beauty lies h
proportion, not In size. The breadth OF the diaphragm
must be ample, for a corset narrow In that partieula
makes a most distressing appearance.
A aatt O. ha nhaArvad In IA sn.l,- .,..t.
the lowering cut OF the bust. In one OF the new
models this il so exaggerated as 70 result in a grid
top. This, when too extreme, as can readily be seer
IS not practical, and is only adapted for small pro
portioned figures. The medium bust lipe is nue.
TO be preferred.
Among the specialtiss shown this season In corset
is a model having a specially constructed hip n
duoer. The hip eonaner is patented and OF spsela
design, but may be attached to any corset. II 1
constructed OF twelve inch bands OF elastic whlc
conform to the figure and rasten around the thigh
10 form a sort OF a pantaloon- This with additions
supporters attached to the hose, makes a snug, hgur
casing garment, showing no break AZ the ends OF tn