davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23
CAPE CLOAKS
TO- REAPPEAR
Moire and Bengaline will Ger
tainly be Used in Spring
Coats

effects. Such scarf is illustrated on
this page. There is no fitting or shaping,
just length CASUALLY about three yards)
OF the chosen material in full width
Smaller scarfs of satin with edging and
lengthwise stripes of marabout or fur
are worn as neckpleces, and have large,
fiat muffs to match. A very pretty form
OF net scarf has the ends decorated with
a simple geometrical sort of design,
worked in coarse chain stitch with en-
broidery silk; other scarfs are made of
alternate rows of ribbon and lace. A
form of scarf that may be arranged as a
unique dress garniture is divided in half
and each end is gathered into the end
of band that is about five inches wide
and eight inches long This band is of
some handsome trimming or of the
scarf material embroidered or braided.
There are several ways to arrange it on
the waist. One is to place the narrow
band at the front, carry the scarf ends
back under the arms, cross them at the
back and bring them over the shoulders
to the front again, where they should be
slipped under the front part of the scarf
and fall, one at each side, in a straight
down line The arrangement might be
reversed, and in either case a novel,
jacket-sort of arrangement would re-
suit
Goats will grow shorter, as is to be
expected for spring and evidenced by
some exceedingly early models, but it
seems more than probable that the long,
straight cape-cloaks, so well liked this
autumn, will reappear, for a time at
least. MORE and bengaline have been
so successfully used for coats that they
are rather certainty for the spring. A
very limited trial was made this fall of
tailored coat and skirt suits of foulard
silk. They were so very successful that
we may expect to hear more of them
Fou1ard and the Raiah weaves own the
field for any sort of dress suit as the
days grow WARMER. There are still
many cold days to come, however, and
foulards and Rajahs need not come into
the story yet, except that anyone with
the comforting knowledge that she has
one or the other hanging safely and
comfortably away may bear it in mind
for possible re-development of some
model that may attract. In. woolens for
spring the tendency Is toward rougher
surfaces, but for general wear serge,
with hard rather than a soft cheviot
finish, is to be preferred, and these. with
panamas and mohair, will be by no
means neglected among the materials of
moderate price. Navy blue and black
continue to be the most popular colors,
and for spring gray and gray effects are
promised.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

This stitching finishes the pocket-open-
ing and also holds the two ends of the
strip of drilling, making a pocket FIVE
inches square.
If the cloth is not very stout the
fronts of the Knockers may be lined with
lining material cut to the same shape,
but if this is not necessary a small stay
piece of lining should be basted at the
crotch on each of the four sections; it
is shown on the left-front in the first
illustration. Here also is shown the
facing in which the buttonholes are to
be worked and the facing-piece of lining
that ernust be scanned to the cloth first.
There were three of these cut in lining
and two in cloth. Lay one of the lining
pieces on the edge of the cloth section
and facing it, with the notch in both cor
responding Stitch a seam at the edge
from the top of the section to the notch.
Turn the lining piece under to the
wrong side and haste the edge. Join
one of the lining pieces to one of the
cloth facing pieces in the same way.
Stitch it at the basted edge, then basic it
in place to the front. The buttonholes
may be worked in it before or after It
is applied Illustration II shows the
right-front with the underlap applied to
it. This underlap is composed OF ~cloth
and lining section scanned together at
the outer edge, not on the curved side.
The curved edge of the cloth facing is
scanned to the front edge of the trousers
section, from the waist to the notch, the
seam pressed open; then the linlng-piece
is turned under at its curved edge and
basted over the pressed-open seam On
this underlap the buttons are to be
sowed to correspond with the buttonholes
in the facing The inch or so on both
pnder1ap and facing, from the notch to
the lower end, is left loose, and is later
included in the seam that joins the two
leg portions together.
Now, with the hip-pocket in place and
the facings on both front portions, IS the
time to insert the side pockets. A mar
row facing of cloth must be basted to
the inside of the pocket-edge that is to
be joined to the front; the correspond
ing facing for the back was cut in one
with the back portions as narrow ex-
tension at the top of each Both these
facings are for the purpose of conceal
ing the drilling at the pocket-opening.
Seam the faced side Of the pocket to the
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23
ELASTIC IN HENS OF LEGS
MUST NOT BE TOO TIGHT
Be Careful that Marks for the Buttonhoes
in the Correct Places

edges of the drilling pocket and stitch
together through the two fold-edges,
leaving the raw edges inside the pocket.
Stitch the inside leg seams, and press
them open. Join the two leg sections
together by scanning from the notch at
the lower edge of the front facing to the
waist at the back. Press the seam open,
and, on the inside, basic a strip of tape
or of lining over the pressed-open seam,
then from the outside make row of
stitching at each side of the seam
Cut the belt. of drilling, marking the
positions for the buttonholes. Fold the
belt lengthwise through the center, turn
under the raw edges and haste together
through the fold-edges, making the belt
double with the seams inside Face the
top of the lnickers with piece of lining
material. Let the facing extend to the
edge of the underlap on the right front,
but on the left slip it under the edge of
the facing. Measure the belt to the in
side of the waist-line of the knickers,
and observe that the marks for the but
tonholes come in the correct places. On
the right front, buttonhole should be
even with the seam that joins the under
lap to the front portion. The fifth but
tonhole should be even with the center
back seam. The ready-made knickers
fasten at the front of the waist with
wide, hook and eye-a kind sold for the
purpose-although the so-called seal
hooks, used for closing fur garments,
may be used If either is difficult to
get, the closing may be made with but
ton and buttonhole, the latter worked in
the end of the belt When the hook is
used it is sewed between the belt and
the outside, leaving only the hook part
extended beyond the cloth. The eye
portion is inserted in the seam that joins
the underlap to the right-front, the seam
being ripped a space for that purpose.
The closing will look better if the end
of the belt on the left side be faced with
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

-" HERE seems to prevail a gen.
eral idea that the making of
the pockets in boys and mems
clothing is mysterious pro-
cess, unfathomable by the amateur Be-
cause of this mistaken notion | have
been told that some unhappy small boys
are doomed to a pocketless condition
when their Knockers are of home make
Such state of affairs demands instant
remedy, and illustrated proof that put
ting IN the pockets is really simple
matter. The hip-pocket might be spared,
but the e-pockets-never The first
illustration shows how these are pre-
pared. Drilling is the best material for
these pockets, as they need to be strong.
A piece about ten inches square is folded
in half, forming a pocket FIVE inches
wide and ten inches deep. Pin one of
these to each front section of the kpick-
erS, and trim the edges to the same
shape as the cloth edge, which usually
slopes in trifie toward the waist-line,
and make at the edge the notches that
indicate the length of the pocket-open-
ing. The lower edge may be left
straight or one corner may be rounded,
as shown in the illustration. If the hip
pocket be made, it should be inserted in
ther ight-hand back portion before that
is joined to any other; in fact, that is
the solution of the only difficulties in
trousers-making-the order of procedure.
The hip-pocket is placed first, then the
facing on the fronts, next the side
pockets, then the outside leg-seams; fol-
lowing these the inside leg-seams, then
the seam joining the two g-sections
and finally the top-facing, the belt and
the lower end of each leg. For boys of
eight years and over the trousers are
usually made to button down the front,
with an undertaking Tin which button
holes are worked On the left side and
an underlap, to which the buttons are
seIed on the right-frout. a pattern Of
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23
Contrasts in Fabrics


The use of two fabrics in one costume,
when they are happily chosen, is at
tractive to the eye and to the sense of
economy, for the scant models of the
past few seasons have allowed little op-
portunity for making over without the
addition of some other material. Con-
'trasts are sought in fabric and often in
color, and best of all, the sleeves, al
ways difficulty in the remodeling prob
lem, are seen in two fabrics. A navy
blue serge, for example, may have little
jacket effects of black silk on the waist,
and the upper portion of the sleeves will
be of the black silk, with the lower of
the serge. Some sort of shaping will
be given the joining edges, to suggest
an intentional, and not pieced-out eff
feet. Remodeling is largely matter of
cutting the coat according to the cloth,
but many highly original effects are born
of the planning contingent upon a miss
ing corner on an otherwise satisfactory
piece of cloth. Many of the late winter
models show so much in the way of
chemisettes, cross-over bands, vest
edges, plastron. and panel and girdle
that with these models in mind, the am
ateur dressmaker must exercise discre-
ton to avoid the effect of scraps and
patches That all men do not think
alike saves life from a dull rnonotony,
and there is the same gracious relief in
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

the cloth, or lining the same color. to
avoid showing a line of white drilling.
The facing at the top of the Knockers
may be made wide enough to extend be-
low the belt, and in that case it will
cover the canvas and make a neat in
side finish for the work on the hip
pocket If the facing is only the width
of the belt, the canvas and pocket-top
should be trimmed and neatly over
handed. Illustration III shows the in
side finish with the narrow facing.
Make a line of machine stitching, from
the outside, at the lower edge of the
belt The belt may be tackled to the
facing between the buttonholes, and the
facing at the left-front should be SINH
larly tackled. Hem the lower end of each
trousers leg and insert a piece of fat
elastic in the hem. Have the elastic tight
enough to avoid slipping down, but not
sufficiently tight to interfere with cir
culation. If the knickerbockers are made
of galatea, brown Holland or other ma
terial that will be Numbered, the elastic
must be removed before the knickers
are tubbed. To facilitate replacing, a
good plan will be to sew hook on one
end and an eye on the other of the
elastic The knickerS may be gathered
into a band to button below the knee
The band should be made long enough
to lap at least an inch, and the leg-seam
on the outside should be left open per-
haps two inches make the banded open
ing large enough for the foot to slip
through The band is made double and
about three-quarters of an inch wide
when finished. The lower edge of each
knicker leg is gathered, and the edge
slipped between the two fold-edges Of
the band, which is then stitched.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

piece of the cloth five inches wide and
about one inch deep, to serve as a fac
ing to the top of the pocket, that the
drilling may not show through the
pocket-opening. Basic the unfaced end
to the lower edge of the pocket-opening
and stitch from the outside, on a line
with the row of hastings; then haste the
faced end (the facing toward the cloth
of the trousers) to the upper edge of
the pocket-opening, and make CORE
spending row of stitching on that side.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

extension piece on the back portion of
the knickers, making the fold-edge on a
line with the stitching-line of the leg
seam. that will be made three-eighths of
an inch inside the raw edge of that seam.
Stitch this pocket edge in place and
stitch also the edge of the facing piece
that extends inside the pocket Basic
the leg seam from the pocket notch to
the lower edge. Turn both raw edges
of the seam toward the front, in order
to make lap-seam effect on the outside,
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

front section, having the cloth facing
against the outside of the cloth and run
ming the seam from the upper to the
lower notch. Turn the pocket over to-
ward the inside, haste, then stitch the
fold edge Turn under a seam on the
other pocket edge and slip it under the
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

Oh, come, let's all be poets!
What though we cannot rhymef
It's easy when we know it's
Just singing all the time.
Just sounding on the tabor
God places in our hearts,
And taking to our neighbor
The message He imparts.
JOHN KENDRIcK BANGS.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23
SHORT COATS
ARE REVIVED
Latest Swing of Fashions In
dicates that Lengthy Gar
ments are Doomed

TNHAT the very long coat is
n doomed seems to be the uni
versal opinion of tailors and
dressmakers now. The latest
news from Paris is to the effect that
short coats are coming into their own
once more. The smart little travelling
suit shown on this page verifes the
promise anent shorter coats. 1t was
sent over from the French fashion cap
ital for Spring bride. This model of
reseda green mohair, shows the long
front opening now in vogue, the fasten-
ing being arranged with one button a.
the waist.
New Spring Foulards
AS rich as brocades are the foulards
being made up for Palm Beach and other
southern wear during the early months.
A charming model in gray-green foulard
is illustrated here, the bodice having a
trimming of silver embroidered banding
over green satin and the little yoke being
of silver net over green chiffon The
green cord ornament across the bust
suggests the Egyptian winged hawk
motif
Simplicity Of Line
TlOQc1S III IdllO1eQ wear
show simplicity of line together with
elaboration of decoration. On the grace
full suit of dead" rose broadcloth in the
picture the braiding of soustache does
not at all interfere with the elegant sim
plicity of line.
Very bride-like is the dainty frock
of white satin meteor, with draped 30
dice and overskirt in graceful effect as
shown in the illustration. The feature
of the little dress is the white lace
scarf, draped over the shoulders in fichu
effect and, confined at the waist under
pearl clasp, falling in sash ends over
the skirt.
January the Turning Point
This is probably the one month in the
year when fashions receive least atten-
ton, yet it is the turning point, we might
say, of the fashion year. February
brings displays of spring and summer
materials, and the models for their
making-up are already being prepared.
Fashion designers live in a topsy -turvy
world, where fur models are fitted and
perfected in July and dinnities and or
CANDIES grow into gowns with equal
indifference to snow and ice. Lighter
fabrics will require appropriate treat
ment, ana tun1CS ana OVer-QraperleS, real
and simulated, may be expected. Prin-
cess lines have held in favor so bravely
that we must believe they will continue
into the spring, even though modified in
form From the princess vogue has de-
veloped revival of the jersey waist of
twenty-five years ago. These are de-
veloped in jersey cloth, that may now
be bought by the yard, or in any dress
fabric. Another adaptation of the jersey
or Middle Ages" form is the Univer-
sity or COED. dress, that is having the
greatest possible popularity for girls of
twenty and under. The waist is really
a middy's blouse, with slight shaping
at the waist and the lower part worn
outside of the skirt. which is usually
plated and attached to a yoke. The
skirt portion is frequently shown of
plaid material and the blouse of plain
color.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

the fact that all women do not dress
alike. Even SO, in the piece princess
season, there have been separate waists
and skirts, and the combination is grow
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

and stitch from the outside, making the
stitching an apparent continuation of
that on the front edge of the pocket
opening. Make a similar row OF stitch
ing from the upper pocket notch to the
waist Turn IN a seam on the Uni oined
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

ing in favor rapidly. The waist, to be
sure, should match the skirt in color, but
the materials for selection are many.
What is proclaimed the tailored waist is
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

difference is that the shirt-waist sleeve
is not used, something of more dress eff
feet being substituted. Usually it takes
the form of a fitted sleeve with hori-
zontal tucks, in size from one-eighth to
one-half an inch, and in any sort of
grouping choice may suggest. Bands of
cloth and soutache braiding trim these
waists, and the entire color scheme is
in one and matches the skirt. The
waists are lined throughout with white
net, in plain blouse shape, the object
being greater strength and wearing
quality. Waists of taffeta and of mes.
saline are also being shown in simple
models and with rather full braiding de-
signs applied to the front, strongly sug-
gestive of the embroidery on lingerie
waists.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23

made of heavy, round-mesh net or chif-
fon cloth, and any pattern suitable for a
waist of linen, madras or other wash
able material may be used. The only
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23
Huge Scarfs Popular

The long coat and the long cloak have
kept securely in favor The popularity
of the loose, untitled cape cloak, almost
a huge scarf in fact, has been a. bit in
consistent when worn with the closely
fitted princess gowns, but there is no
question of the popularity of the scarf in
every size and material. In heavy satin
or satir-faced cloth, edged on all four
sides with a band of marabout, an en-
veloping wrap for evening wear is pro-
duced, capable of most graceful drapery
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1910-01-23
MAKING POCKETS IN BOYS
KNICKERS NOT DIFFICULT
Hapess Lads need not 60 Pocktess when Garments
Homemade Directions and Diagrams

y HERE seems to prevail a gen.
eral idea that the making of
the pockets in boys and mems
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1910-06-30
NEW AUTO ENG|NE
JOY TO MOTORISTS
Burton Brothers Invention Shows
New and Important Features
Cranking Is Eliminated.

w. ]. Burton, president OF the w. j.
Burton Co., manufacturer OF roofing
material. and his brother, George Bur-
ton, president of the Economy Manu-
featuring Co.. have invented an auto
mobile engine which promises to be-
come immensely popular with motor
lists and manufacturers. A working
model is now nearing completion and
will be tested out within a week. IL
1t comes up to expectations. a COM
pany will be formed for the manufac-
ture of the engine on large scale at
once.
The engine has several distinctive
features, calculated to insure greater
efficiency and economy and TO tighten
the burdens of the chauffeur. But two
Of them, In particular, will bring
about shouts Of rejoicing from the mo-
toring world. One Is the elimination
OF the crank abomination, a pump, OPP
Grated from the drivers seat, taking
the place OF the oldfashioned crank.
or even greater importance is the oil
ing system, and this will be the Bur
tons biggest talking point In this en-
CINE the lubricating oil is used over
and over again. which not only means
economy In the use OF oil. but also
prolongs the life OF the engine, for,
with this system, the parts can never
get dry, inasmuch the oil supply Is
never exhausted. II will only be
necessary to remove the oil from time
to time, strain it. and put it back IN
the receptacle.
The Burtons have applied for pat
ents on all the new features OF the
engine and are prepared to go ahead
with the arrangements for its manu-
facture as soon as the model Is COM
pleted. provided the practical demon
stration works out satisfactorily.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1910-06-30
PROPOSED GRANT
+ TO N. j. R. IS 0. K.
Day-to-D Day Franchise With Provision
For Purchase By City Is Legal,
Says Corporation Counsel.

Interest Is added to the proposition
OF the Michigan United Railways to
run a terminal line into Detroit by
an opinion sent to the council fran
chise committee by Corporation Coun-
selP. ]. M. Hally, Wednesday after
noon. According to his opinion the
new line and the existing three-cent
lines could be forced to exchange
transfers, the former by definite
agreement and the latter under the
terms of the franchise OF the Detroit
railway. -
Under section 10 OF this franchise,
Hally points out. any new company
coming into the city would have the
right to operate its cars over lines
belonging to the Detroit railway
within the half-mile circle, on pay
ment OF just compensation. The free
territory, however. does not extend
beyond the half-mile circle.
Hally says that 1t would be per-
fectly legal for the city to make a
day-to-day franchise arrangement with
the Michigan United Railways, under
which the city would be able to buy
the tracks and equipment OF the rail-
way company at first cost less depre-
citation, and the agreement could be
so framed that the company would be
allowed to bring It's suburban cars in
over the tracks after city ownership
had taken effect.
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1910-06-30
USED CONSUL'S NAME
IN BEGGING FOR MONEY
Man Nabbed by Dresden Police Got
Living by Telling Hard Luck
Story to Americans.

BERLIN, June 29.-The Dresden
police have locked up man for trying
10 impose on the charity of Americans
resident In that city. He pretends to
be an American from Pittsburg, but
as he has given his name as Dryer and
again as Williams the police are by no
means certain that he Is an American.
He obtained money and the charge
against him is that he got 1t by false
pretences.
He worked in company with a Ger
man rascal named Levin Williams.
They went the rounds of the American
residents saying that the American
consul had sent them. This story
opened many purses to them. Some
of those who gave mentioned the mat.
ter to the consul, who denied all
knowledge of the man.
He made such success Of his beg.
ging that the. police were able to catch
HING by watching american houses,
and PLACES where Americans meet. He
had TO identifying papers ana was
unable to give satisfactory account
OF himself
Should the charge of obtaining
money by false pretences be pressed
against him he will be sent to prison.
Otherwise he will earn his keep In
the workhouse as a vagrant.