The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1910-04-12
Party Of hlonntaineersF From Fairbanks, Alaska,
Make the Ascent and Prove That DR.. Cook
Never Climbed the blOuntain==American
Flag Is Placed on the Peak

Fairbanks, Alaska, April l2.-The
Fairbanks expedition TO Mount Nc
Kinley. the tallest peak in North
America, reached the summit April 8.
after a climb of one month from the
base No traces of DR. Frederick A.
Cooks alleged ascent were found
Thomas Lloyd, leader of the eXpedi-
tlon. arrived here last night. His com
panions were Daniel Patterson, w r.
Taylor and Charles McGoDigle. and
all reached the top of the great noun
tain.
The expedition, which left Fair
banks December 10, while the contro-
yersy over DR.. Cooks disputed ascent
was still raging, was financed by Gus
Peterson and William McPhee of this
city. Tho plan WAS to 20 into camp
on the mountain as high as possible.
and. probably about the middle of
Nav, make dash for the summit.
The obstacles encountered were not
so great as had been predicted. Four
camps wero established during the
ascent and trail was blazed all the
way to the crest. Up TO 1900 feet
the climbing did not present unusual
difficulties. For the next 1000 feet
".
which at first seemed to forbid further
progress, but through which, upon eX-
ploration, IL was found possible to To-
cate path The final dash TO the top
was made from the 16,600-foot camp
Mount Mckinley terminates in twin
peaks OF equal height, one somewhat
rounded and covered with snow. the
other composed of bare and wind
a. ~. l.
Fairbanks climbers paced an Ameri-
can flag in a monument of stones.
The expedition, which was provided
with Or. Cooks maps and book. en-
deayored to follow his alleged route.
but utterly failed to verify any part of
his story of an ascent
The Mount Mckinley expedition.
news Of which has been receiver from
Fairbanks, was made up OF Thomas
Lloyd. Robert Horn. Harry Karsten
and Charles McGonnigle. all expert
cnccd monntaineers The members of
the party agreed to forfeit $4,000 il
none of them reached the summit
One of their objects was to verify or
dsprove TO their own satisfaction the
claim of DR.. Frederick A. Cook that
he reached the summit in the fall OF
1906.
Dr. Cook claimed TO have ascended
Mt Mckinley and to have reached the
summit on September 16. He said he
left at the top of the mountajn proofs
that he had been there.
Prof Herzchel G. Parker OF Colum-
bla university was a member of the
expedition that DR.. Cook led TO the.
mountain. and he later disproved DR..
Cooks assertion that he reached the
summit after the professor and other
companions had turned back.
Recently Professor Parker organ
lied an expedition TO attempt the as
cent of the mountain, and 1t was
planned that this party should leave
New York April 25 next. They intend
ed to go TO Seattle and then by steam
ship TO Cook Inlet. From that point
the party planned to travel by motor
boat TO the Chutnjta glacier. where a
permanent base would be established
Mount Mckinley is the assumed cul.
ninadng point Of the North American
continent and Is in the Alaskan range.
latitude 63 degrees 4 minutes north.
longitude 151 west. It's height Is
given as 2O,464 feet 1t is extensively
glacial and has always beon regarded
as most difficult of ascent.