The Salt Lake herald-Republican. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1909-1918, 1910-03-13

on a white ground, or the white line
on a navy blue ground.
Although the three-piece suit in the
more elaborate styles will persist, the
silk suit. consisting only of skirt and
coat, bids fair to push to the front
again as the smart apparel for semi
dressy occasions. Tussah and pongee
silk are used almost exclusively IN
these suits, though ribbed and corded
effects are also good. Foulards, which
grew and grew to such extravaganza
in sprawl and color that they lost ia
vor with the discriminating woman
are insinuating themselves into her
good graces again by their soft color
ings and modest designs. The smaller
the pattern the smarter the fonlard is
considered to be. Another revival of
a once popular silk is that of the
changeable or chameleon silk, which
is to be found in the taffetas and
satins. Many of the new suits and
coats are lined with this ehangeable
silk, in a contrasting shade.
Though the suit coats have eli been
shortened up into Russian blouse and
even Elton lengths, the separate coat
for spring continues to be full length,
though often developed in the Rus
sian effect. The straight cut garments
on closely fitting lines are easily in the
lead Silk coats, of black taffeta, or
the natural shades OF pongee and tus-
sab, will be much worn. One model IN
tussah illustrates a new feature in the
combination of a blouse front with a
belted effect, without a belt, however.
The fuliness of the blouse front is con-
fined in three narrow tucks to which
is extended the skirt panel, thus form
ing a sort of low, broad belt. The very
mol - ha Of CrfIi (
feature of the new coats. together with
the left side tapping. Sometimes a
single button fastens the coat at the
waist line, and more than three are
never used.
The color note for spring is a sub
dued one. Soft, silvery grays, greens
with yellow glints in them, natural
pongee shades, and all the pastel col
orings predominant. In the change
able silks and foulards the tans, grays.
rose, violet and green are preferred.
The neutral tones of the street cos
tunes are often relieved, however, by
touch of brilliant color at the neck.
and the use of contrasting color in
some of the new Innings makes subtle
color harmony possible. A striking
pOngee coat having a shawl-shaped
collar of orange taffeta, embroidered
in the same color, had lining of coin
spotted Misunderstanding black dots on
burnt orange ground.
Belted Effects Prevail In House and
Eve..Ine Gowns.
The popularity of the ready-made
gown for every day or dress occasions
has resulted in a wide selection of
these to be found in the shops. They
range in price and elaboration from
he eli arIn tot IN, ell
lightweight wool materials to the din
ner gowns and evening costumes,
swathed in chiffons and a-glint with
tinEel. The modes seem to have con-
spired TO aid the woman who thriftiIy
makes things over" Overskirts,
draperies, sashes. the use of several
different materials on the same gown,
sleeves made from net or chiffon or
gold cloth-what possibilities for the
refurnishing of the old direetoire gown
or ruffled evening dress, or worn
jumper suit these fashions PRESENT.
The materials favored for the sim
pier dresses are tussah and foulard
silks, wool batistes, voiles and cache
mire. The Russian influence is strong
ly shown in the insistence upon a nor
NAL waist line, either suggested or en-
circled with girdle, or belt of leath-
er, or folds of material, often in a con-
trasting color. Though it was predict
ed that the vogue of the tunic would
be f1eeting, many variations of its
simple outlines are being shown. The
most approved style is cut off at the
knees and is either of even, round
length, OF falls in points below the
hips. With a short skirt the effect is
not always graceful. so that tunie
modes are best employed in the more
elaborate costumes.
The trimmings of the palmer dresses
consist generally of self-covered cord
Ing, or braids in the cord or tubular
effects. The preference for the military
styles. with the side tapping of coats
and costumes, has brought out many