The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-05-29

voll0asly embroidered. but other modoh
depend upon line rather than oEnAmsntA'
don. and these when truly successful AF'
veritAbls works of art.
Ono peculiarly lovely model WAS In q
vsTy supple satin finished silksn stun
Whlch Ras probably . Sr4ps q sSns kind
Il Was In q most delicious. soit 0yOlAmsn
tone and Il wa lined with q deep toned
smoky gray ohiffoa over whose surfAcs
WAs scattered q design % primrOSss In
several cyolAman tints. Tho fFOntn fell
back in soft dFApsd revers 10 show this
chiffon facing.
An sorts q odd little shoulder wraps
dEApsd IN chiffon. hos. Natin. 40. arr being
sxplolted BY the Preach designers. but
usually en- Euita with frOoks. Oddly
enough. DirUutOlre modes. supposed to
have vanished with tbs 1nows Of yostsr
yaAF. are reAaBsFtinR themselves not only
In millinery but IN coat and frOck detAllB.
Dirsctolre coats with rsvsgs. shoulder
oApos and waist line shortened In the
back II not all around are humorous In
Paris. and The short WASTED frOck, has
never bean really out Of fashion for svs-
ming and house wear.
For that matter. As has been sAid many
times before. this seAson's modes are 20
elastic that there no need 10 conform TO
any cot lAws 0f limo. Delicious things are
being done with rIllles and frills and
qulIllnSs and hchns. You may have q
full shirt u you will. and. though straight
hanging. Il need not be very narrow at the
foot nor held In at the ankles. You may
b FFAgonard or ROmnSy. Oriental or
Magyar or CossAck. 1850 or 1910.
All that Ia demanded 10 that whatever
you do shall be done well. The very
amArtsst Of the Frsnch frOcks have an
air Of simplicity though the simplicity
Of line Il often the result Of cOnsummAts
art and h Od'sst By subtlety Of material
and color asaoalaslSns
Such . little frOck a. the model In
Ohangoable RAnRs which Ia pictured IN one
og The small cuts u . casa IN point. Moth
Ing could be more demurs. yet the change
abs sheer stuff over soft silk Of third
tone 0slFiOualy yet perfectly harmonic
Inc. and . sOarf drapery Of yet another
shade speaks more loudly of an artists
skin .than does many = very ornate model.
and the simple blouse and shirt with their
little tEills d the Ranne would beextTAOr-
siinaFily awkward II bunglsa. ,
The kimcno aleeve-we call Il that
for want Of . better name for the sleeve
out ID one with the bodice-is ubiquitous.
Nine out % TN Of the Paris models have
IL: and consequently. despite the variety
In the modes there IA too a certain
mOnOtOriy. Often the blouse 10 Ot the aim
plsat s0rt. plain over chest. shoulders and
arms. vsEy slightly falled into a waist
band or gifdle. trimmed only around the
neok and alsgvss and relieved by thin
guimpe and undsrslssves. There. as h 20
often the eaRs. the blouse In Of chiffon or
other sheer stun; there y almost always
FAT trimming upon the foundation.
showing vaguely through the vslling, or
a scarf drapsry Of vivid color under the
chiffon.
somstimea there h not even thin vellsd
trimming and the model achieves dis
tinotiOn IN the simplest fashion. a. IN go
case Of q green chiffon illustrated mere
Anything more simple than both blouse
and skiFt Of this model il would he hard
10 imagine. but the frock had deoidsd
0anhaf. thanks 70 the lovely color and ma
leriHl and the perfection Of cut A fire
les bad embroidery down the entire front
and around the sleeves supplied the
only note Of trimming.
Equal simplicity Of line IL irequsntly
relieved by . uss Of striped or figured
foundation under the simple chiffon
yelling. or perhaps a striped chiffon or
cause 10 used over plain silk Of contrast
ing oolog. A gray and white striped gnuze
over the most delicious Of shrimp pinka
was q charming example Of such treat
msnt. the usual deep hand Of silk az the
skirt bottom being Of gray. a. were the
bordering bands on the surploe bodice
fronts and kimonO sleeves.
There are exquisite. filmy fFOoks en-
tiFely in gyay-the soft. delicate. creamy
sFayB- with embroidery weighing down tho
cloudy folds and perhaps a touch Of ine
wearing lace about the throat. in sleeves.
One importer Ia showing four bsautiftil
models Of thia typo and. among Their CON-
pani0na. usually dashed with vivid color
ing. the misty gray creations have q
peculiar refinement and distinction.
Yet on the whole this 10 a season %
morn AEssrtivs color. color usually yelled
but audAciOualy vivid. The Persian or
caoAsmiFS dsSiRns and colOrinRs have haa
an enormous success. particularly in the
ganaea and chinona. and are laviahly used
undsR vsilings Of one tone for trimming
and for blouass.
Ths blouse Of oaohemirs. cAiEfou or
other thin stuG. cut all in ono and made
with the utmost simplicity. Il ConSidsrsd
extremely chic for wear with plain tailored
COSTUMES Of serge. &C. and the Parinians
liks Il particularly IN connection with
their white sarRss. Cream or Whits
frills uSually aniah The oollarlsas mack and
the alsevea.
Ths plated fFtIls are betns 90 woRulry
Ovsrdons that 10 seems thsiP vogue
cannot last long and yet they are very
charming and used on even the arnarteat
models. The narrow bottom, tied in
skirt 10 another mode which surely viii
not Be Of long duration. Already the
moving f0reass In decline. and plated
and full skirts aEo certainly on the IN
orsass. though not violently sslf-saasr-
tive e. yee.
Ono Of the most attractive little ioulard
ErOckB SEEN Was Of SaGs blue and white
An n msska A.ma@m naN kasa H. = A