davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
FRENCH
FASHION
NOTES
PARIS. April Il.

PARIS, April a.
TATs and more hats! In endless
r linz they are displayed, and so
IL beautiful are they in either their
sweet simplicity or their gorgeous deco
ration that one is restrained only by
the limit Of ones purse.
At Rumplemeyer's a white chapeau
attracted considerable attention. It was
faced with ''bleu de roi' velvet and
trimmed with white coque feathers that
encircled the crown and lowered at the
back IN a huge bunch. On the same
afternoon was seen a black hat, OF chip
faced with black velvet and draped
with black satin. A stiff bow tied in
four loops was placed at the side This
model. by the way, can be carried out
n 1oulard or chiffon.
B-irns roll away from the face at the
front on many OF the newest models.
Reboux favors this idea. while Lewis
snclines toward the large fat shapes
with low crowns. draped with scarfs
OF bright blue or cerise silk veiled with
black chiffon. This milliner IS using
many flowers fashioned Of satin
Street hats designed by Camille Roger
are trimmed with huge bows Of change
able silk
Fewer turbans are seen as the season
advances, probably because Of the In
creasing warmth Of old Soils rays The
lingerie hats are lovely. They are fat
and large. and when their tulle, lace or
embroidery is simply embellished with q
velvet rose or poppy or a cabochon Of
mixed blossoms. they leave nothing to
be desired.
For lingerie frocks there are many
unusual combinations Of materials. Ecru
English eyelet embroidery is combined
with bright green OF cerise silk IN the
girdIe, the whole touched up with black
tulle. TuIle and Irish lace are fire.
uuently combined. Other lingerie frocks
are embroidered in japanese colors and
designs.
Foulards. plain and figured, are allied
with great success. The deep hem
reaching to the knees IS q happy solu-
ton OF the problem Of contrasting silks
Z may be plain or figured, and the note
OF contrast finds repetition in the bolero
effect on the bodice.
White satin veiled with ''bleu de mutt"
chiffon and embroidered with green and
blue tiny wooden beads IN large plaques
is q wonderful combination for an even
ing gown.
SCheruit IS still exploiting the short
length afternoon and evening dresses
for which this house is famous.
Voiles of extremely large mesh, called
"toIle ondee," are much IN vogue for
afternoon wear. as are also chiffon over
cashmere designs and changeable silks.
ELOISE.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Handbags

A WOMAN can be happy II her
"A spending money be limited, and If
- l. the restraining hand Of economy be
kept on q purse that is good looking
and Of a style that is distinctive. A
momentsry extrava gance in the pur-
chase Of new handbag will cover a
multitude Of rebellious feelings against
the limitations OF a moderate income;
and Il the Joy Of a beautiful one be
powerful in decreasing discomfort with
ones lot. then woman must, perforce,
be happy.
Handbags are offered in tempting
form, and Of sizes that viii be generally
more satisfactory, for the extreme factor
Is not apparent in the spring models.
The newer ones that should attract
the woman of conservative taste are
from ten TO twelve inches in length and
almost equally as high. but are much
smaller at the top than at the bottom,
thus making less the danger Of losing
the contents when the bag is carelessly
left open.
The 5eweled framework IS a feature
of the newer models. and the decoration
ranges from a simple stone set IN the
center 10 q framework incrusted with
Jewels throughout it's entire length
Heavy Russia leather holds first
place. as usual, but there are many va
riauons Of softer skins.
There IS a tendency toward decorating
the leather itself One lovely bag of
gray has a shadowy Egyptian design in
conventional pattern in faint colors
stenciled on the back.
Two duh green eblong stones stud the
center. and the framework is Of French
silver delicately chased.
It is lined with lavender, and has
many compartments and pockets
This lining, Of colOred watered silk, is
very pretty, and is seen in most Of the
newer bags.
There is q revival OF the use OF velvet
bags, and many Of plain black. beauti-
fully mounted, are seen in the shops.
Others. embroidered heavily with silk.
are shown. while gold or silver thread is
used on velour, and matches the mount
ing IN delecta-ble fashion.
OF suede and stamped leather ba
there is no end, while among those caT
rled for ornament, as well as for use
the e&QUIsltely beaded ones. rafternad
from those that our grandnOthers oar
rled. are proudly exhibited as proofs
lhat no period Of fashion is too remote
for the all-seeing eye of a modem
woman who is willing 10 accent the
best from any time
Inc handbags are necessities ,7ov.-
adays.- They are capacious enough to
carry coin, small packages and a c,,,,
plete outfit Of toilet articles. and &c.
serve the double purpose of a useful
lrlend and a decorative accessory
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Plaids Again

are dangerous reef in the
r. ocean of economy. In the hands OF
Il the inexperienced they may prove,
indeed, expensive luxuries. and even alb
ject failures
Their attractiveness. however. is Un-
disputed and their appropriateness for
morning wear assured
Ginghams this season are irresistible.
The ever-ready plaid frock long ago
made it's lasting appeal to the yOung
girl. to the mother of a family of little
children and TO the grown-up: and those
who have looked their best in the large
or even the medium plaid have long ago
learned to make allowance for their
own peculiarities of color. size and fig
ure.
From the smallest checks in one
color and white to the largest Of broken
plaids in harmonious tones. the sOftest
Of rose colors and old blues predOminate.
Strawberry and raspberry reds are eX-
quisite and the usual line of black and
white will prove smart as ever when
made on the bias This last device
often saves the day and the DRESS
where plaid hangs in the balance.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
The Spanish Hat

TIME Spanish toreador gives a sug-
gestion to some alert milliners,
Il and although modified in many
instances. stands out as a hint of Cas-
tile. In red straw one of these new
shapes has been developed. and If a
dark-haired woman be fortunate enough
to own it. there will be an irresistible
effect gained.
The Spanish hat can be made with the
wide turned-up brim, approaching the
turban shape. or there can be only an
inch or so at the turned edge.
In many models velvet is used as
facing, while a fine silk canvas or
striped taffeta is also effective.
To be strictly Spanish, pompons of
straw, so fine that the appearance
closely resembles cut ostrich feathers,
should be used. Black or red is very
becoming on red hat.
A departure from the accepted trim
ming however. can be made by any of
the variations of the cabochon. Net.
pAated and surrounding a dull jeweled
ornament. or silk fringe in circular form
looks extremely well at the side.
Of course. there is only a certain type
of beauty that should flaunt the Spa n
ish hat. but when possessed, the torea.-
dor hat is happy choice.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
A New Blouse

THE English send us what they call
an emergency blouse" although
u we suspect 1t of being of French
origin. so closely does it resemble the
Partisan garments of the moment
OF most simple pattern, it can be run
together in almost no time, provided the
materials are handy and the spirit will
ing
Its somewhat slouchy lines may even
appeal to the tailor-made American
girl when she recognizes their French.
mess
Front. backs and short sleeves are all
made in one piece. the shoulder seams
and dart above the bust being the only
shaping necessary.
Neck line and back opening are then
finished, and there is required for wear
with this short-sleeved jumper blouse
a sheer guimpe with undersleeves
In effect. this is one of the peasant
fashions
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Charming Jabot

Il CHARMING jabot struck an IN
~ usual, and therefore a welcome.
note. Made Of fine white material
and edged with Irish crochet, as nine
tenths Of the handsomer ones are. it
was cut with deep point as its center.
which left a bias or diagonal along its
upper edge.
ms was finished with Irish insertion,
ana Just mere began the tiny hand-run
tlchs iolded on the bias of the goods
Zach tuck grew shorter than fhe last
as they approached the point. and each
one 1eh open at its ends for several
ancnes. giving. facinating cascade ap-
pearance 10 the whole jabot
There Is a decided return to the plain
tucked and boned stock collar Fastening
at the back They are ever acceptable
70 those wearers of the ruche who seek
It's most becoming accompaniment in
collar form.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Robe of Embroidery

HTIDE embroidered founcing lends
NM itself successfully to the lingerie
w froek of the season. Pin tucks
and appliques are in evidence upon the
same garment. but its prevalent note IS
the use of this widest of allover and
scalloped embroidery for tunics and for
whole skirts.
To complete the one-piece frock. similar
wide embroidery is brought into use
for sleeves and bodice, thus making a
perfect garment at less expense than
the robe, which is always valued at the
high price of exclusive pieces.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Contrasting Belts

"HERE is a late fancy among
fsome Partisan costumers for
u making the belts of the more
elaborate gowns of color in con-
trast to the whole color scheme OF
the garment.
This g1rdle. though differing in its
tone, is of like material. and is mere
ly a new touch-a little Oddity-and
more evident because OF the atten-
ton bestowed on the waist line at,
present.
A dinner gown Of sapphire blue.
trimmed with crystal embroidery, is
siven an old rose girdle, and the
combination could win its way any
where, so knowing and artistic was
the choice of shades.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Colored Irish Lace

TOR evening wear there is a return
II of colored Irish lace, dyed to match
the gown. Indeed, the lovely and
durable pattern has retained its place
in the modist's favor, for there is al
ways the possibility of matching the de-
sign, and to any woman who despairs
when told that I'VE haven't any more
of that trimming" the reliability of
stock patterns is gratifying.
Ihere must not be too much of col
ored lace used on a gown. A hint at
the chemisette. or sleeves, or Just a
suggestion in the center of a motif Is
frequently enough to add richness with
out over-elaborateness
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Sashes

~ ASHES are with us once more. The
broad belts now so popular are
~ continued In soft knots and
long ends. when the gown TO be orna-
mented is of light summery texture.
Wide fowered ribbon in pOmpadour
patterns, soft broken plaids of
dainty color on white, new satin
brocade in soft Self-t0nes and the
ever-beautiful messalines are all sought
by the foresighted summer girl
The sash or girdle of ribbons, or
even of silk by the yard, is as much
a fashion for the child as for the
grown-up.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
Something New in Summer Hosiery

A design accentuating a circle just
above the instep is new and there are
innumerable drop-stitch effects in the
weave that will have reader sale than
for several past seasons
The. colors are unusually varied and
can be found to match any gown. Some
are OF most beautiful changeable silk,
while others are so closely embroider-
ed that they have the two-toned effect
without being actually woven in that
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

"HE latest hosiery shows more
elaborate patterns in the higher
II priced designs and many beautiful
innovations.
Those beaded across the instep and up
the ankle are perhaps the most novel.
while others embroidered in vinelike
designs appear more graceful than
those with the decoration scattered in
discriminatory in an allover or loose
pattern.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

way.
ram stockings of Isle silk or gauze
sui hold their popularity with the
woman of conservative taste for all
except most elaborate occasions or for
nome use with dainty house gown or
lounging robe. In other words, the
tailored suit and the plain linen cos
tune still demand the plain. sensible
stocking Of black or tan, according to
the shade of the shoe.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

tt YOU contemplate making a gift
for that friend of yours who is to
be married, why not fashion "a pair
OF garters that in the rush of affairs.
would possibly not receive the time and
work in their construction from the
bride-elect? There are attractive new
forms that are fowerlike in their
silken beauty, and though the effect
OF these new garterS is delightfully."-
ornate, their construction is quite
simple.
The pond-lily form is of white satin.
The elastic casing is bordered on the
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

larger rosesa double or triple
would otsufhce
have
sharply
with is
as
considered hat
mot weart rolling brims
of
the ii
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

welcomed by the bride. and when they
are sent with the personal touch of
your own handiwork they give double
pleasure. White is always appro-
PIRATE. though the invasion of pale
colors into the trousseau is evident
this season Black, too, is extremely
effective in these forms, and has the
additional value Of durability.
For brideS-to-be, or for the many
friends who appreciate the handmade
gift, these garters deserve the atten-
tion OF the woman who is apt with
her needle.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

OF silk. and. holds in the fulness at the
center.
Extremely easy of construction is
the f1uted sunflower form. The center
Is of puffed satin, and the outer circle
is not of separate petals. but is
straight width of ribbon adjusted in a
wide quilting.
Just soft bow of ribbon can un-
dergo pleasing metamorphosis by
allowing the long ends to be gathered
into satin balls, to the ends Of which
silk tassels may be attached.
These little accessories are always
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
f 6.oe% awoRW -. .laUH DeIaIevA0zz G1nZzv~-..

upper ana lower edges with a narrow
rune secured by the fulness. Long,
sum petals surround white silk cro-
cneteu buttons. The unusual cluster
OF points suggests charming departure
from rosettes or round forms.
II. however. the rose with its wide
petals appeals to you, a variation can be
,ii.., iil..roouced by edging the separate pieces
Win quilting. A narrow strip of satin
Is Ioiued In toward the center, one edge
otsverlapping, and the shirring passes
The disk is covered with a SHRED piece
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24

"HB size Of the incoming
hats is almost a byword.
IL but there is much more
hope of their being an actual mid
summer style and lasting through
out the season than If they were
some small and curious shape.
Summer suns demand a shade hat,
and fashion usually grants US, as
the season advances, certain shapes
that serve as hat and parasol in
one.
Every variation of the wide
brimmed hat will be seen and
sought for; crowns are round and
square; trimmings vary from the
simple quill or ribbon bow to
clouds of maline and veritable
gardens of roses. Their varia-
tions introduce US to lace which is
veiled with maline and to small
beds of blossoms studded with
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-24
ONE-PIECE
FROCK OR
SHIRTWAIST

"O CONTRAST these two gar
ments is 10 take various points
into our consideration. 1t may
Franklin's paper the statesman., 1910-04-16
Who !, suHiei.n. For tn. Task,

"0ld Hickory" writing In the Dallas
CTexl Express. says, "The policy Of
President Taft not to appoint Negro
to office unless the world, the flesh
and the devil and his wife were all sat
!shed as to the dcsirableness OF such
appointment has borne bitter fruit for
the race ever since 1t became known.
Therefore the widespread frost fol
lowing the census frameup ought not
to cause any surprise"
Franklin's paper the statesman., 1910-04-16


''The record Of this court will show
that | offered to produce testimony OF
an affirmative and positive character.
giving the names Of the participators
persons not in the military service Of
the government in and details Of an
alleged conspiracy to commit this
crime
''The record Of this court will also
show that no effort has been spared
10 produce before this court evidence,
NO matter how fiimsy or circumstan-
tial, which might in the slightest de-
gree tend to demonstrate the guilt Of
the men vino formerly defended the
Dag and the honor Of this our common
country"
The particular instructions given by
Secretary Dickinson to the court at
the outset OF the investigation, to
which Mr.. Marshall took especial e1-
ception, are as follows:
"Such conclusions as may be reach
ID by the court in respect to the ell
gibility for re-enlistment Of the former
enlisted men Of the Twenty-fif'h In
fantry, at Brownsville. who were sep
arated from the military service In the
operation Of discharges without honor,
should be affirmative and positive In
character and based upon such pre-
ponderance Of testimony as will sup
port It's specific finding"
The court listened TO the lawyers re-
marks without comment and arranged
to sit again to hear the closing ad-
dress Of Captain Rowland, which will
include summary OF the evidence
submitted to the court. together with
his conclusions.
In view Of the gross injustice TO 167
brave colored soldiers. not one Of
whom has been found guilty and for
whom Joseph Benson Foraker sacri
deed his political life, and for the sake
Of justice and free institutions In this
republic the National independent Po-
litical league urges every colored cit
lien TO write his protest to a congress
man or senator and to President Taft
Every church. society, organization
and league should do the same and
this injustice be protested publicly at
special or other public meetings State
and local branches Of this league are
asked TO do likewise The loyalty OF
the colored Americans to these soldiers
as against injustice is one OF Its great
ct glories. Let us not desert now
the "black battalion"
Franklin's paper the statesman., 1910-04-16
Tu.k.o..'. Rising Young Orators.

THE Demand For Negroes Of Bust
ness Training is the subject Of the
valedictory address which will be de-
livered by Jesse Whitfield at the forth.
coming graduating exercises at Tus-
kegee institute in May. Coils Rob.
hnson viii deliver the salutatory.
Franklin's paper the statesman., 1910-04-16
To R.produe. Noted Scholar. Works.

10 Reproduce Noted scholars works.
Edward Wilmot Blyden. LII D.. Of
Sierra Leone. West Africa. who is the
foremost Negro scholar Of the age. has
authorized John 4. Bruce Grit Of
! onkers, N. Y, to reproduce his writ
hgs in the United States. DIR. Bly,
den Is at present engaged on several
books and pamphlets on race ques-
tions. which will be published in this
country In the near future.
Franklin's paper the statesman., 1910-04-16
Long Fight For
Soldiers Ended
Justice 10 Discharged Men Of the Twenty,
flfthhfantD Rendered impossible by Sec.
fetaD Of Wars Instructions s-Shrewd
Move BY Attorney n. B. Marshal.
Political league Protests.
BY N. BARNETT DoDsoN.

The board Of army officers appointed
under the amended Foraker bill TO de-
eide upon the possible re-enlistment OF
the discharged soldiers of the black bat
talon has closed its hearings. and the
recorder Of the court shows his inten-
ton to deny re-enlistment on the ground
that the evidence proves that colorel
soldiers did the shooting and that no
colored soldier has afflrmativcly prov.
ed his innocence Of participation In the
shooting or In the so called conspiracy
Of silence. The senior counsel for the
colored soldiers, " b. Marshall. Esq,
refused to argue and declared the In.
structions to the court by the secre-
tary Of war improper in compelling
the soldiers TO prove their innocence
affirmat.vely and the action OF the
court one sided. This episode In the
tragedy Of injustice against these 10y.
al soldiers Of the nag. an episode des-
tined to be historic and one in which
we can take special pride because At.
torncy Marshall Is colorcd American
and also because OF the improper In.
structions OF the war secretary, Is re-
ported In a recent Issue OF the Wash.
ington Star, which says:
-
duced during the closing sessions OF
the army court of inquiry which is in.
vestigating the Brownsville raid OF
August, 1905. by statements made by
n. r. Marshall OF the Washington bar.
who was associated with Brlgadici
General 4. II, Daggett, U. S. A., re
tired, as counsel for the Negro soldiers
seeking restoration to the army.
Attorney Marshall declined the offer
Of the court to submit an argument on
the general ground that II would serve
no purpose and Implied broadly that
the court had been improperly Instruct.
ed by the secretary Of war and that
tu' IcNoiuei VI iue 'uuit- Naptaiu
Charles II. Howland. Twen,y-iirst In.
fantry, had made no effort TO produce
any evidence favorable TO the dis.
charged soldiers
In declining TO argue the case Mr..
Marshall gave two specific reasons, rs
follows:
First, because the procedure adopt.
ed by the recorder Captain Howlandl
and acquiesccd In by this court leaves
1t undetermined In my mind whether
this court Is court Of inquiry or a
court martial, or. In other words
whether the recorder is an impartial
investigating officer or prosecuting
officer; second, because the instruc-
lions OF the secretary OF war TO this
court conflict so fundamentally and
totally with my legal training as TO
make It impossible for me to build an
argument which would attempt to
prove negative.
.'For these reasons" said MIR. Mar
shall, II can neither argue nor can
appeal TO your mcrciful consideration.
for. in all honor, this honorable court
Is bound by the limitations imposed by
the authority from which its instruc-
tons proceed
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1910-03-19
PRESIDENT HAS
NOTHING TO SAY
Will Keep Hands Off Of Fight
in the House.

Ashtabula, o., March 19.-President
Taft, on his way from Chicago to
Rochester, N. Y, where he is to speak
before the chamber of commerce
made brief stop here. The presi
dent eagerly read the morning papers,
containing news of the house fight
that were put aboard his train at
Cleveland, but would not comment in
any way. He felt that his information
was not complete enough for this, but
it was doubtful whether he would say
anything under the circumstances
even if he were in Washington.
The president all along has le: it be
known that he would not interfere
with any fight the insurgents might
make on the speaker or on the rules
of the house. He has insisted. how
ever, that the insurgents shall give the
administrations bills loyal support If
such members are still to be reearded
as Republicans and expect to share ia
the patronage that Republican presi
dent can give. So far the insurgency
in the house has not extended to any
of the presidents measures recon
mended in fulfillment of party pledges
In fact, many of the insurgents have
pledged him their support and until
they show some disposition to break
this promise the president will keep
"hands off,