davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
Frills

VERY blouse nowadays Is frilled,
and II 1t is not already so sup
A< piled. milady OF the needle flastens
TO the rescue Of her passe shirtwaist
and adds the very necessary adornment-
There is the frill demure, OF accordion
pleated lawn or null or linen, with its
scalloped edge Of embroidery. Or, some
times. the edge is only a deep fold OF
black or color. Large white handker-
chiefs with colored borders, have come
TO their artistic end in many Of these
friIIs.
Then there is the friu aristocratic, of
lace or allover embroidery, elaborately
tucked and edged with eccordion-pleat-
ed satin. Sometimes the frill aristo-
cratic is Of net, with silk-embroidered
dots and a stiff lace edge. This is worn
with the silk or expensive lingerie waist.
And there is the frill practical. really
part Of the waist and concealing its
opening. This is likely to be adorned
with a diagonal row Of buttons-black,
II the folded edge is black; colored, IL
colored-or else is Of plain strip .em-
broidery. hiding the band Of buttons and
buttonholes below it. It has been seen
N TIE DiOuSc AldteiA Add, piii-luShco.
But always It is the frill various It
may spring from q Dutch collar Of
plain linen, with colored edge to
match that OF the frill; It may be con-
tinued in a stock. fashioned on the
same lines and OF the same tints and
materials. often II has cuffs TO match,
and sometimes a belt or grdle. It may
seem a blouse trimming. or be simply
part Of the blouse itself; sometimes 1t
Is really adjustable. and fastens by
means OF pearl buttons and crocheted
loops OF OF gold baby studs. Occasion
ally il is mctamorphosed into a scarf
fastening under an embroidered band
across the slashed middle Of the blouse.
And, above all. it is the frin easy to
make and beautiful.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
Embroidered Wells

NOWADAYS. when wells are so heav-
M ily embroidered, the woman who
- is exact and delicate in her nee
dlework can save herself a pretty penny
by herself embroidering her plain net
wells. The work must be done in the
finest embroidery silk In a loose outline
stitch, and great care must be taken
not to tear the mesh OF the VEIL It IS
best to confine ones self TO the simplest
patterns-the new comet design. after
our late visitor. is a good example-and
to choose the large sprawly designs, so
popular in any event. as the different
figures viii never approach the machine
stitching in exactness; and this Is less
between.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
SheicA at
H7zo1eq MhE
Dress Accessories
for the Clever
Woman

"HE woman who can turn bar
hand to the making OF unusual
- and dainty things has a wealth OF
material from which to choose IN the
making over and embellishing OF her
summer clothes.
She can, for instance. embrolder IN
heavy cream-colored silk the broad but
tons OF her pongee or foulard dress. and
insert new yoke Of spider embroidery
"a sort OF fagoting that looks almost
like drawn work.
Then there Is the lengthening OF the
allover embroidery gown by means OF
two or three bands OF net, just above the
knees-not enough OF It to make the
skirt sag. however.
II her white serge suit shows signs Of
wear in minor points, she can freshen
1t by means OF pipings. collars and cuffs
and big buttons OF figured foulard.
From her heavy evening cloak she can
take the padded lining, and replace IL
with white or cream-colored silk chif-
fon, edging the lining with a tiny quill
ing OF chiffon.
Then she can remove its worn buttons
or frogs, and use instead oriental pip
ing made into tubing and braided, three
strands together, as rosettes and cords
Her old straw hat will be wondrously
improved by means of net in ths
same shade. Nothing so freshens straw
as stiff net. Let her make a scarf Of It.
and on each side run this through sort
OF buckle formed OF three rows Of ac-
cordion-pleated net. sewed on either end
to the straw Of the crown.
The silk dress whose yoke and long
cuffs show signs Of wear should have
these cut out and replaced by plain net,
with wide band of Dresden silk en-
broidery at the bottom Of the yoke. and
squares in Dresden colors corresponding
to those in the embroidery. worked in
satin stitch at regular intervals over the
net.
Finally, here are two new sewed-on
jabot ideas for our clever seamstress.
The first is a quilting OF black satin
formed into a circular shape and bound
by a piping OF red velvet, from which
the cream-colored lace jabot falls. The
other is a band OF narrow black vel
vet around the neck, caught IN front by
one blue satin ring, and again, about
three inches down, by another, and end
ing in three little blue-and-black tas-
sells.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
The Longtime Effect

VT7HICH same might be entitled the
wv Longtime effect and how TO get
w It," For all OF US must look like
sylphs nowadays. and IL Nature has
been unkiEd. she must be gently assisted
to kindness.
Nothing succeeds for this purpose.
her own devisings like the vertical band
running down the front OF the one-piec
frock. almost from chin to toes.
The gown may open In this manner. so
that there Is q row OF fabric-covered or
pearl buttons or OF braid frogs all
down the front, caught at the waist by
loose girdle Many Of the new skirts
also open IN the front, seeming nothing
but wide oblongs Of dress goods wrapped
about the form feminine.
Or that long line may be simulated
opening. whereas the dress fastens quite
conventionally in back. Then there is a
frill effect OF lawn or linen. deeply seal
loped and perhaps edged with embroid-
cry or itself embroidered. Indeed. a
fold and a row OF buttons In the exact
desired effect with minimum Of trou-
bic.
Then there IS the tunic effect. A
tucked undersl<irt and a tunic slashed
down from the frilled Dutch collar 10
below the knees viii make one look de-
nghtfully long and slim.
Moreover. simple defining embroidery
viii do q great deal; and there is al
ways the sash, appropriately draped and
fastened at shoulder and knee.
And the applied strip OF embroidery
49, - hraf a.
figured IN a contrasting color TO the
plain fabric. always succeeds IN its ef-
fects, especially when the whole skirt
is vertically pleated in wide folds and
the appliqued band reaches entirely TO
the low-cut neck.
The important thing to remember Is
not to undo the effect, laboriously gained.
OF the straight front line BY wide
frills or tucks elsewhere in the gown.
Let everything be subdued to this one
feature, so that the idea OF length Is ac-
centuated.
And SO. all hail to the Longtime efrectl
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
A Hat for 20 Cents

TN HIS IS not strictly true. for 1t was
lined With black satin and had a
- huge draped bow OF the same.
both taken from an old hat. But every
woman has these somewhere In her
storeroom or scrapbag. And the rest7
1t was a bathing hat. purchased for
10 cents, and nodded over a hot chat
ing dish to the required scoop-bonnes
shape. Then the black satin was ap-
piled, fore and aft so to speak. and
In front was placed a square buckle
contrived from a 10-cent piece OF white
chamois. purchased also at the sand
10-cent store. And there you areI The
exact replica OF a $50 French hat. but
fashioned by the cleverest girl in town
for 20 cents.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
Sewing Ideas New and Useful

Silk undersidrts always give first at
the seams. Therefore. while the petit
coat is new, sew silk seam binding over
each, Fastening it on the right side. This
Will serve often as a cure for wornout
petticoats as well as a preventive.
In drawnwork and hemstitching on
linen, soap the place where the threads
are to be drawn. using q thick soap
lather and a soft brush. After the Linen
IL drawn It will be easy to take out the
threads.
Always sew horn mating with rama
Rama stretches and covers the rent
quite edfectually. Use q regular carpet
needle. with largo eye.
Try making tiny eyelets On collar that
must be fastened with gold pins, one
eyelet where the pin goes In and an
other where 1t comes out. There will be
much less chance OF having torn coli
lar to mend later. And. by the way.
when making an oblong eyelet, work II
around q drawing and cut It out after
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17

the plaster a little larger than the
hole and apply with the unglazed back
to the inside. This is too heavy for
fabric gloves. however. and tears them
still further.
When the very tip breaks OF OF one
blade of a pair of scissors, the point
may be renewed by fling or by rubbing
hard on a milestone. The points Will
be uneven. but they will cut. The Same
treatment Is good for blunted needles.
Wherever you have a placket or vent
to fasten, use glove clasps instead Of
hooks and eyes. They will stay shut
much better and cost just about the
same.
If you are in hurry for darning
cotton and cannot secure 1t Immediately.
ravel an old stocking. pulling one thread
first to make raveling easy, and use
the thread thus obtained This is es-
pecially good in silk and fine .lisle
stockings, where ordinary darning cot
ton makes an ugly. coarse appearance.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17

ward You viii be sure, then, of hav-
ing just the right size without pulling.
Keep your pieces and dress scraps in
a bag or bags of mosquito netting or
scrim, SO that you can see at a glance
just which piece you want. If you have
a great deal of this leftover material.
try having separate bags for different
colors or different fabrics.
In sewing on a button to be used on
heavy material, sew over a slate pencil,
making the thread fast with a stout
knot. There will be less danger OF los
ing the button again and the result Is
not so unwieldy as the tape-sewed but
ton often used on children's clothes.
In sewing net curtains or other mate
rial of the same sort, instead of basting
or using pins to mark the hems, run in
visible hairpins up the net. They will
hold their place and show plainly.
Instead OF eyes to go with hooks, try
tiny safety pins. Certainly they are
easier to adjust; and where they will
not show they are every bit as useful
Above all. be sure to have all your
sewing materials ready before you start
your work. What should you think
OF the carpenter you had called to your
home IT, when he arrived, he found he
was out of nails and had forgotten his
miterbox? AS soon as your supply OF
any sewing accessory is exhausted, re-
plenish it, and keep your workbox UP
to date. When any new invention comes
to view in the shops. see II It Is worth
while; and In that case. make It youz
own.
And all this Is worth doing. 1t IS re-
markable hoW the little things. as
have said. help the home sewer; for the
dressmaker or the woman who sells her
wares (and such sewing as the embroid-
ering Of initials and monogranns on
linens ana the making OF dainty layettes
and lingerie offers a lucrative and too
neglected feld they are invaluable.
Finally, look out for these little hints
everywhere; keep a card catalog or file
of them, and refer to them frequently
until you know them by heart. with
each new addition. Thus you will make
of even your home sewing a profession
and raise it from the ranks Of unskillet
labor.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17

/" HERE are so many little things
that will save time and give good
Il results for the busy needlewoman!
Here are some Of them:
When darning a rent In WOODEN goods.
darn with hair from your own head.
The loose weave of tho wool loses the
hair In its meshes, So that the darn Is
invisible.
The best thing to clean rusty needles
better than emery--is common earth.
just go out in the garden and stick
your rusty needles into the ground two
or three times and you will be surprised
at the result
When q button comes off shoe, run
through all the other buttons with the
same thread with which You replace
the missing one. 1t will strengthen
them all and make the next button
sewing a task far in the future.
Very often small holes In black or
white kid gloves are better mended
with court plaster than by sewing. Cut
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
A Cushion Edge

~ CALLOPsIarge shallow scailops
done in coarse buttonhole stitch
~ with linen floss or heavy cotton
form the attractive edge OF a cretonne
sofa pillow.
1t is advisable to use the natural linen
color Of the background, as il will be
found more effective than the more
brilliant colors Of the flowers.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
The Tailored Parasol

TN PARIS, the home Of taste and
fashion, only the very plainest sort
= OF sunshade Is worn with tailored
suits or simple morning dress The
parasol is of silk or OF silk and cotton
and matches In tone the chief color OF
the costume. The only decoration al
lowed is one easily made at home: three
large hemstitched tucks about four
inches from the edge. Match the silk
and apply this idea to your plain sun
shade of the tailored season OF 1905. and
you will be in the latest Partisan mode
for about half q dollar and an hours
work.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
The Cretonne Hat

"HE new poke bonnet and Corday
shapes in millinery are now to be
Il seen covered with Powered cre-
tonne IN blended tints-a good hint to
the lady Of the worn straw hat, for fire.
ouently turbans and the crowns and
brims Of largo hats are likewise so
treated. Flowered ribbons. with spring
Ike flowers and frillings of lace, are
used TO trim these hats. giving an ap-
pearance qIaint and before-the-w wary
and vet very modish.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17

- BE combination garment has
been lauded 20 the skies by
women who appreciate the i'm
portance of smoothness Of fit in
an undergarment I am giving. there
fore. with much pleasure. a rose design
that should appeal TO every feminine
heart and hand.
You will notice that there is in
timated an effective use of stitches on
the leaves, the combination OF solid
and seed stitch being a favorite one
OF the French, who are masters of en-
broidered lingerie. Half of the leaf
you will I'LL in with stitches that fol-
low the directions OF the lines. The
seed stitch is merely a tiny back
stitch In straight lines. On the half
Of the leaf where this is used the
outline stitch must be used. If you
wish. you can whip this outline with a
single strand Of the mercerized cotton.
The conventional rose design is
beautiful and easy. Over-and-over
stitching the shortest way OF the
petals will work very quickly: some
designs have the tiny central petals
filled in with French knots.
The scallops are small and quickly
worked after padding. For the ribbon
drawing string the eyelets in groups
can be buttonholed as you have al
ways done on corset covers.
These form q pretty. substantial
edge for the rufie Of the garment, and
although numerous TO the impatient eye,
fully compensate the worker IN their
durability and effective finish
Daintiness OF underwear is the mark
Of well-dressed women. From the
combination garment the step to a
complete set of the rose design is
easy. am happy to point the way TO
all my readers.
The San Francisco call., 1910-07-17
New Bolero Effect

TTYIDE shirring has found its way
wv even into the bolero. A pom
w gee bolero suit shows this
shtrred effect everywhere except in the
upper sleeves. There are three bands
of shirring about halfway down the
tuntc skirt, also, and the entire effect
Is dainty and summerlike.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
One Record Made by Women.

Through the activity of women, in
the anti-tuberculosis campaign, sana-
toria and hospitals for the treatment
of tuberculosis have been erected;
travelling libraries have been circu-
lated, posters, circulars and other
kinds of literature have been distrib-
uted to the number of millions OF
pieces. thousands of lectures have
been given, large sums of money have
been secured, hundreds of needy cases
have been helped; tuberculosis work
has been started in many communi-
ties where no movement had existed;
and millions of women have learned
The dangers and methods of proven
ton of tuberculosis. The work OF the
women extends from the drawing room
of the rich to the homes of the poor,
and embraces all classes, including the
factory girl and millionaire. During
the coming year a special campaign Of
lectures to women will be carried on
10 all parts of the United States.
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
" SYEK LAYS DOWN SCEPTRE
Ruler OF Hermit Kingdom Finally
Yields His Title, Submitting
Gracefully to the Inevitable.

Tokio.-The official PRONUNCIATION OF
the treaty of the annexation of Korea
by Japan, under Tie name Cho Sen,
was made at o'clock Monday morn
ing. At the same time mass OF
documents providing for the future
government of the new colony was
made public
Seoul Korea-Upon the relinquish-
mept of his power and the turning
over of his country and people to the
sovereignty of Japan. Emperor vi
Syek issued the following farewell
rescript: Notwithstanding our I'M
worthiness. we have succeeded in the
arduous task handed down by our an,
cestors. We have eDdeavored, up to
the present, to follow modern admin
istrative principles, but long existing
evils and deep rooted weakness make
IL impossible for us to effect reforms
in a reasonable time. Daily and night
~ we were concerned, but were unable
to rectify these conditions.
Therefore, we feel constrained, be.
lieving it wise, to entrust the great
task to other hands"
The deposed emperor appealed to
his people not to create commotion
and declares that in taking this steI
he has not disregarded their interests
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
STUNG BY BASE lNGRATlTUDE
Bowery Denizen Seemingly Had Right
TO Be Indignant at Old Friends
Attitude.

'Ycu remember dat guy, Jim
Burke?" asked an irate Bowery deni-
zen. He's dat stiff OATS dom time
up der river-Sing ing-boiglary-
ten years. Well, you know all | done
fer dat stiff. When he was pinched
didn't put up der coin for der law
yers? Didn't | pay der witnesses?
Sure | did De oder day ! thinks III
Just go an see dat mutt just t leave
him know his frien's amt tied de
can on i'm. So | drives out to d jail
and goes into d warden's Office and he
says l gotter send me card in. Me
card! Dye get dat? Well, anyway,
writes my name on piece o paper
an guy takes it into Jim Burke, an
what d. you t'ink dat stif tells dat
guy to tell me?"
i've no idea," said the listener.
"He tells him." concluded the angry
one, "t' tell me dat he amt in!"-
From Success Magazine
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
IN AGONY WITH ECZEMA

mo tongue can tell how l suffered
for FIVE years with itching and bleed
ing eczema, until l was cured by the
Cuticura Remedies, and l am SO CRATE
full | want the world to know, for
what helped me will help others. My
body and face were covered with
sores. One day 1t would seem to be
better, and then break out again with
the most terrible pain and itching. I
have been sick several times, but
never in my life did / experience such
awful suffering as with this eczema.
had made up my mind that death was
near at hand, and | longed for that
time when / would be at rest. l had
tried many different doctors and medi'
cines without success, and my mother
brought me the Cuticura Remedies, In
sisting that l try them. l began tc
feel better after the first bath with
Cuticura Soap, and one application Of
Cuticura Ointment.
Il continued with the Cuticura Soar
and Cuticura Ointment, and have
taken four bottles of Cuticura Resolv
ent, and consider myself well. Thi:
was nine years ago and l have hae
no return of the trouble since. An,
person having any doubt about thi!
wonderful cure by the Cuticura Rene
dies can write to my address. Mrs
Attic Etson, SO Inn Road. Battle Creek
Mich, Oct. 16, 1909"
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
NO CHANGE TO GO WRONG
State rent Of Beauty Doctor May Have
Been True, but II Was Not
Gallant.

William F. Oldham. bishop OF Sing
Apore, talked at a dinner. on his last
visit to New York. about missionary
work
"A certain type of man." he said.
goes about declaring that we dom
inant races civilize the savage out Of
existence-that we do them harm in
stead ~ good
We'll. as matter of fact. II these
cavaliers knew what | know about
some tribes, they would speak less
confidently. Some tribes are so de-
based that to do they anything but
good would hardly be possible. They
are, in fact. Just like the ugly WON
an who visited the beauty doctor.
This woman was ugly in everv fea.
ture, but her nose was particularly
ugly. That, no doubt, was why she
desired the beauty doctor to begin
on It,
81 am willing she said, to pay
you literally, doctor. but | demand in
return substantial results. We will
start with my nose. Can you guar
antee to make 1t ideally beautiful?'
THE doctor. after looking attentive
ly at the woman's nose. replied:
"'Well, madam, can't say as &c
ideal beauty, but nose like yours
couldn't help improving If hit 1t with
a mallet."
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
All the Difference.

The professor was delivering an elo-
Quent address on cruelty to animals,
and to Illustrate how a little judicious
forethought would eliminate to great
extent the sufferings that even small
insects are subject to. said:
"As l was coming through the hah
tonight ! saw a bald-headed gentleman
very harshly treat a little innocent
house-fy which had aHghted on his
head
Nov, II there was any justification
for such bad temper, l would be quite
justified in indulging in 1t at the pres
ont moment for fly has just alighted
ON the back of my head l can't SEQ
Il, but ! can feel 1t.
Possibly some of you can sec 1t
now; 1t is on the top of my head. Now
~ rs coming down my brow; now 1t is
coming on to my G-r-r-eat pyramids
II Egypt, It's a-wasp!"
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
Touch Luck.

II thought you said this was
young chicken" remarked Viewed, as
he sawed away at portion of the
bird.
And | thought 1t was" rejoined his
better half. II looked in its mouth and
it showed no indications of having cut
single tooth yet The dealer must
have imposed upon me-
did he tell you 1t was young
chicken ?" queried her husband.
NO." replied Mrs. Viewed. But I'm
sure he must have extracted its teeth
before offering it for sale"
The Oakley herald. [volume] (Oakley, Idaho) 1908-1961, 1910-09-02
LACK OF MONEY
Was a Godsend In This Case.

It is not always that lack Of
money Is a benefit.
A lady of Green Forest, Ark, owes
her health to the fact that she could
not pay in advance the fee demand
ed by a specialist to treat her for
stomach trouble. In telling of her
case she says:
Il. had been treated by four differ
ent physicians during 10 years OF
stomach trouble. Lately l called on
another who told me he could not cure
me; that had neuralgia of the stom-
ach Then l went to a specialist who
told me l had catarrh of the stomach
and said he could cure me in four
months but would have to have his
money down. | could not raise the
necessary sum and In my extremity |
was led to quit coffee and try Postum.
$50 stopped coffee and gave Post
um a thorough trial and the results
have been magical l now sleep we'll
at night, something l had not done
for long time; the pain in my stom-
ach is gone and l am a different
woman.
II dreaded to quit coffee, because
every time | had tried to stop 1t suf-
fered from severe headaches, SO | con-
unued to drink it although | had rea-
son to believe 1t was injurious to me,
and was the cause of my stomach
trouble and extreme nervousness. But
when / had Postum to shift to 1t was
different.
ITO my surprise | did not miss cof-
fee when began to drink Postum.
Coffee had been steadily and sure
ly killing me and didn't fully realize
what was doing 1t until | quit and
changed to Postum
Ever read the above letferf. new
one r,uenrs from time to time. They
ere genuine. true, and full; Of human
Interest.