New-York tribune., 1910-09-04
TIE Orocfe.s fFasbf0n Speak
Great Dressmakers Show Empire MODES for
Evenine-Two-Piece Costumes for Daytime

he worn: IL promises to be a season OF
| velvet. There are satin-faeed cloths as a
cIcse rival, and 1t is quite new fabric
/ that is cIassed under this name, with 4
real true satin surface and with some
times a shot effect OF color underlying 1t.
| For morning tailored suits come a lot OF
| loosely woven wO9Is, some OF them
| loosely woven as TO look as Il knitted by
hand These in mixed white gray and
| black and broken white. gray and black
plaids promise to be most fashionable. TINS
best decora ton on stuffs OF this SORT is a
bit OF bright red, few tas5eis hanging
from the bust decoration and repeated on
the skirt Buttons are used in pr0fusion
on tailored suits. but the buttons must
! be unique and designed for the costume.
otherwise their use falls into the realm os
the ready made"
There are. OF course. no banded skirts. 4
fashion that quite finished with the Grand
Prix, if il ever existed among well gOwned
French women. In fact. there is little cir
cUlar trimming at all skirts. save wide
fur bands, which are seen on most of the
very handsome models. Skirts are not fa
the least wide. and the idea that they were
to increase largely in width seems TO bs
a wrong one. Two yards and a quarter
to three yards. depending on the figure f5
the proper width for the hem of A walking
skirt. Most of these are cut with straight
panels. often overlapping each other with
buttons, bands and Cording Some few
skirts show insertions of pleats. but only
a few Often the back and front panels
are trimmed and fall free from the hem,
and in some few cases the sides are slightly
fulled in to the front and back panels
Sashes have sprung into such prominence
this summer that it is not strange to find
them the autumn models. but with the
difference that might be expected. We see
fewer examples of the big Japanese back
bow. Most sashes now end al a side panel
whether the panel be in front or on the
back of the gown. and naturally the deco
ration is different. A big rosette and
single long trimmed end are generally suf1-
Client. There are half sashes with falling
and trimmed ends In fact. any pretty and
original idea in sash decoration is good
STYLE but, considering that ribbon has
Teen so much used during the summer
breadths OF silk, moire. satin or velvet
are better. Most of the new models show
sashes made of breadths OF stufs and
these are trimmed and weighted in most
fanciful ways.
For evening gowns the Empire modes
little evening costumes consist of q few
yards OF a soft stuff falling in graceful
folds from a high waist or high belt effect
Most of these have deep collars falling
from the low decolIetage, and the best OF
these collars are deep and round. ending
in nothing the bust. The really up-to-
date finish on an evening frock is a deep
hand of fur on the edge Of transparent
short sleeves II important touches are re-
membered. the getting up of a simple even
ing frock for the winter is not difficult
These Empire skirts are cut with full.
round hens that clear the floor. Another
style of evening costume shows the mayeD
age or the Greek effect, and drapery is
laid over drapery. The richest stuffs may
show only as foundation. The trains ot
these gowns are most amusing They may
consist OF point of some drapery trailing
a bit behind. or the back panel may drag
a bit below the edge of the gown There
seem to be no examples of ordinary. con-
ventional trains.
There is no limit to the amount OF fur
trimming that will be used during the
coming season. Skins will be dyed every
color and shape. and even expensive fUrs
Will be mixed with feathers and ribbon dec
Grafton. Muffs are larger than they have
ever been before. StoIes are generally
shaped. large and deep behind and narrow
times the ends cross over the bust and
fasten behind. making fur fchu
ETHELYN MIDDLETON.