davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06
Manufacturing Rubies

TT NOVEL and profitable industry has
 Hsprung up in Paris. that of manu- - afacturing artificial rubies. A ruby, after all, fin spite of its exaggerated value. is not such a wonderful thing when Its composition alone is considered. It Is just plain. ordinary clay, containing q trace of chromium. This clay, however, differs from ordinary mud in that it is crystallized. At the top of the furnace used in the manufacturing a little cal cined alum. mixed with the right per centage of chrOmium-oxide to give 1t the true ruby color. Is placed in a fine sieve. which is gently tapped at regular inter vals by an appliance operated by an cleo tro magnet.
 This causes the powder to sift down through the oxygen gas. where it finally meets the hot zone made by the eOmbi- nation of the two gases, hydrogen and oxygen. The temperature of this zone varies from $500 to 3,600 degrees Fahren- heit The powder fuses and drops into the platinum receptacle, and as each drop falls 1t unites with the others in the dish, thus forming a pear-shaped ruby resting on Its stem.
 Each blowpipe has an output of about s to 10 carats per hour. and single oper- ator can attend to a dozen blOwpipes. Rubies weighing So carats can thus be built up. These rubies, after they have cooled, are split lengthwise. They are cut and polished, the fine polishing being done with tripOh aud water. The cut gems, ready for the market, are worth about 40 cents per carat
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06
raAAGAogaSSg83d
Ridi1g As An Exercise for Women.

the first fingers
 It is not well for a beginner to start posting or rising. but she should jog along until she feels the balance of the horses trOt. The muscles should feel the saddle properly, and one teacher sug- gests that good way to obtain balance Is to count one, two, three, four. the same as in dancing. but to the horses step. This Is done in a 'trotting gait until the pupil has complete control of her balance She should not in posting either pull herself up by the reins or push up from the stirrup; the chief work should be done by the right thigh.
 In cantering the break of the body should work separately from the lower part and should be at the hips. That Is to say. the limbs and thighs are kept firm, while from the hips up the body sways gracefully with the motion of the horse. When a rider has this seat per fected and has her horse under perfect control in hard gallop she is qualified to jump.
 Up to this point of posting the curb rein may be used by the teacher and the near-side rein passed back of the horses mouth and through the other snaftie ring. This gives the instructor a more even guidance of the horse. When the rider begins to post she should be given the
 
 that she must control her horse. Pulling her curb rein suddenly may cause her horse to rear. and she will make him nervous If she jerks him up suddenly. She cannot afford to be cupriciOUs or meaningless with her Feins, for a horse soon learns when she has no power.
 The riding posture has been q debated question for some years, with arguments for and against cross saddle and side saddle riding. Many riding-schOol instruc- tors favor the cross-saddle. and others will have nothing but the side-saddle. Some women riding teachers claim the woman's figure is not made for the cross saddle and contend that the side-saddle tRsureS stronger seat. especially in all cases of pitching forward when on a stumbling or kicking horse. or when land Ing after d jump. With safety skirts and safety stirrups the danger from drag sing is obyiated The appearance is un- questionably better in the side-saddle; very few women look well when riding astride.
 In the mountainous West on long trails there are advantages in the crOss-saddi- These saddles are different in cOHstruc. ton from those in the East. They are Mexican style. with wide wooden stir rups. a high horn in front and very high cantle, forming practically dished- out seat, and are satisfactory on those trOtting lOping horses. The proper con structiOn of the side saddle depends large ly GpOn the third pOnInei. This should set straight out from the saddle and come out over he eft knee. with the end well curved down. This renders the posi- tion so firm that it is almost impossible tO become unSeated.
 The simplest possible costumes are the smartest and they represent excellent re suits in the tailOr's art. Many women. especially those who are just learning to ride exaggerate the styles. This should not be done; the more simple the style the better Se appearance.
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

dinner snd walked out on the veranda when that poor little Jenkins woman passed us She can't help being plain. can she? She can't help being 2S and still unmarried. can she? No. of course not! But did that make any difference to you women? Not a bit of it.
 Says Mrs. Simpkins, indicating the Jenkins woman with a smirk: My, she looks older every day I see her-all she needs is a cat and a canary and she'll be a typical old maid And what does that Clarkson woman replyT My dear, ali I think she lacks is the canary she said, didn't shei Well, now that may be considered clever bit of repartee by some peOple-but I cant see it, and poor Miss Jenkins is far from being a cati
 And now just stop and think a minute about what that same Clarkson woman said of Mir. Crouch at the table. Mrs. Suburbanite, you'll have to change my seat-apy place except across from Mir. Crouch. His table manners are atro- eious!' she whined, didn't shei Perhaps they are, Blossom, but that is Groucn's misfortune. and any fnir-minded person would pity him and keep silent about it.
 And then all this talk about other peo- ples business. You're just as much to blame as any of them, too, Blossom. T don't believe she's very happy with him. says Mrs. Simpkins. referring to some one of the married women here. I know ]
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

couldn't live with him. tSou remark. And Mrs ClarksGn then breaks the ice com pIetely with: My dears. you have no idea how terrible it Is. Our room Is right next to theirs. and we can hear everything they say. He's brute.' And. forthwith. Mrs. Simpkins perks up her ears and you draw your chair little closer and Mrs Clarkson proceeds to regale you-a and anybody else who cares to listen with a full account of what she heard by standing. with her ear close to the wall. Oh, yes.' I know all about 1t. You're all in the same boat,
 But what gets me is how anyone of you is able tO trust the other. How does Mrs. Simpkins know but what Mrs Clarkson talks to you about her when she's not present. or Vice versa? And how do you women distinguish your friends from your enemies? Or is it that every woman is a friend to your face and the friend 10 the other woman be- hind your back? Huh? You needn't an swer if you don't care to, Blossom. but there's no use your getting hufTy about 1t and pouting. I'm doing this for your own good aud I mean 1t an in a friend ly way t1f 7in
 Now take the men out here You don't hear us chattering and gossiping about each other. do you? Not a bit of it. We don't get sore at each other and pick up every little point we can and
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

on the place-excepting you, of course. my dear.
 Mrs. Justwed smiled amusedly.
 You needn't have added that. Homer" she said meaningly. We all know how devoted you are to Mrs. Tompkins. Really. it's been quite the talk of the place"
 'It-it-bur-r-r-rr' claimed Mir. J. Ut has. has 1t! And you let them talk about"
 Just then Mrs. Clarkson and Mrs simp- kins approached.
 "Oh, Mir. Justwed," Mrs. Slmpkins ef fused. I'm so sorry Mir. Tompkins beat you in tennis this morning by just one game. wasn't IF Really. don't see how be did il. Everybody says you're by far the better player. It was an accident wasn't itT'
 Well, no. couldn't exactly say that. " replied Mir. J. dubiously. but he did get several lucky breaks on balls just over the top of the net. you know. that would not have been good if the net had been reSu- lation height. But he's lucky in every thing!'
 ''Lucky?" queried Mrs Ciarkson "why didn't know that: fin fact. ! thought he was rather unfortunate. He hasn't much of a position, has hei" Not very much of a one. as positions go nowadays" answered Mf. J. ''I should say not over a hundred a month. But he has q snap of 1t and Is always getting tips on what stock to play in the market from old Moneyba his em ployer. and then. too. he nearly always wins at cards. In fact. I should say thar he clears something between fifty and hundred every two weeks at the club.
 Funny. isn't it. how luckll stick to a man. If you put TomPains in any stIalghtaway business I'd bet anything he couldn't earn his salt. A friend Of mine was telling only yesterday that he'd make some frishtful mistake in performing commission for Moneybugs. and that maybe thered be q good many thousands of dollars lost because of his error."
 Oh" exclaimed Mrs Clnrkson. softly. isn't that too bad. Do tell Us more about it.
 Homer-dear was just abont 10 reply when Mrs. J. interrupted with:
 My. my. ladies, yon'll have my esti- lnable husband gossipins next, and he simply detests it,''
 Oh no." objected MT. J promptly. this isn't gOsslp-these are facts Does all gossip have to be untrue:' asked Mrs. Justwed.
 CARMEL CALVERT HALL
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

run straight to another fellow and tell him all about 1t. do wei Well. just guess not. And as for the clothes we wear, gee whiz. l couldn't tell you what color neektie Clarkson had on this morn- ing to save my neck And l don't know whether Simpkins has one suit to his name or a different one for each evening iu the week
 But you women? Why only the other day heard Mrs Thornton say to you: Isn't it pity. Mrs. Justwed, that poor little Miss Jenkins. doesn't at least try Co make herself presentable-she's worn the same dress every evening this week. Now I want to know what difference it makes If MISS Jenkins chooses to wear the same gown for a whole year-and who's business 1t is. anyway. Seems 10 me you wOmen'll gossip about any old thing just so it's gossip.
 And reputatiOnS? Heavensi At least a half dozen people here haven't a shred of one left to them, Why do you all jump on Mrs. TOmpkins? Just because she's pretty and attractive and lively that ClarksOn woman Is forever and q day accusing her of flirting with every man on the place. And she's convinced she's signalled out MT. Clarkson as an especial object of her attention. As matter of fact. Mrs. Thompkins is. fin my estimation. the most attractive woman
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06
Latest Lingerie Ideas for Summer.

shaped fiounce. A novel idea is the ad- dition of an extra flounce of net below one of embroidery and lace. This is tucked and finished with a narrow edge. It Is pretty and fluffy. washes well and Is a decided change from the muslin one. The tendency in silk petticoats is largely in favor of plain colors of the same shade as the gown itself.
 pretty combination of colors can he chosen. such as a green underskirt with a gray gown or a rose with a tan. The matching shades. however. are in much better taste. number of attractive wash models are shown in ginghams chambrays, linens and pongees, as well as some pretty stripes. A popular trim ming for these petticoats is a hounce embroidered to give the effect of hand work. This usually consists of a scallop with few dots or flowers above it.
 The correct features of the latest cor set are long. slender lines. with slightly incurved waists. the fiat effect preserved absolutely across the front, with slight spring at the back and sides. Some are shown with little more funess at the hips. Indicating a return to the more curved lines. This change is slight. The corset lines of the past couple of years have been for health and comfort and the corset to fit propegy should not be too tight nor too loose.
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

great points in riding. On the other hand. since 1t is conceded that a child's training is best begun before the mind and body have reached their full develop ment, the importance of embracing the art of horsewOmanship in the elementary educa ton cannot be too strongly advO- cated- And at whatever age the beginner approaches the subject the endeavor of both teacher and pupil should be 10 elim- mate all tendencies which are opposed to recognized rules.
 Children take naturally to the sport and are more easily taught, but age Is really no imped.ment fin learning to ride. Women of fifty and sixty go to California and other parts of the country. where the only way to view the beauties of the scenery Is from the back of a horse. and they become used fin short time to the invigoration of riding.
 Good instructors go very slowly with a beginner who exhibits nervousness or signs of fear. She is started in a walk. after her stirrups have been adjusted to the proper length, giving her the correct position of the limbs and she has been told to sit squarely on the top of her saddle. with the shoulders level and the hips well in line. The snaffie rein Is passed back of the hand and held outside the little fingers, so that they run up through the palms, and the reins should then be pressed by the thumbs against
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

- HIS season has brought ont more elaborate ideas Tn women's lingerie
 than any other season heretofore ~ More attention Is being paid to the
 cut. finish and ht and the lingerie is more flmy than ever before But notwithstanding the latter fact, much thought is given to its endurance. Lace Is again in vogue hand embroidery be- ing preferred to the more delicate ma terial. Instead of the narrow Valen- ciennes insertlngs and edgtngs. huge me dallions of baby Irish or Cluny lace are used on the finest hand embroidered hand kerchief linen. A vast amount or labor is required in the making of the latest lingerie on account of the great number of ..itches required, When the articles are. imported the prices are hardly within reach Of the average woman.
 If woman is handy with a needle. the expense of these garments Is ridiculously small If one does not care for the hand sewing or her time Is limited ceod effects may be obtained with fine sewing machine stitches In the embroideryfOr corset GOV CTS eyelet designs are good. but the Eng lIsh open effects are supposed 10 be much better Favor Is also shown the .orrtine embroideries which are good imitation
 
 used on corset covers and combination sers This embroidery Is especially good and often as effective and durable as the finer and more expensive hand emhroid- cry The English openwork embroidefles include insertings. .nIedallious. houncings and headings
 The latest lingerie ideas show no infin- ence of the empire style Even the hight robes indicate that the waist lines have
 .f fAr 10 hni that are in evidence encircle the figure just above the hips and not just below the bust great many of the new mod els are shown fin the barred dimtiies In practically the same sized check tnat proved 50 popular In last seasons hn- rerie The shapeless, full-gathered under wear has departed. The princess modei fin combination with drawers and corset covers and In petticOats, long and short that 1t without wrinkle are the present. day demand for lingerie.
 The combinat ton skirt and corset cover or corset cover and drawers is now a necessity to ones wardrobe. It is usually made in the most elaborate fashion and of the finest nainsook with great quanti- ties of insertings. But for the fact that il is worn beneath. It has all the appear ance of charming gown. The fit Of these garments is another important feA- ture, for they must curve Into the figure nicely, and not a suggestion of a seam or wrinkle be allowed to show.
 Some are even made with castings on the underside, into which whaiebOnes are slipped, and with these the corset is ire duently dispensed with. Another thing to take into consideration In the making of these gowns is that nearly all skirts and drawers are cut circular. great care being taken that the finished gar ment does not sag.
 One peculiar fact is that the everyday house frock is receiving consideration
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

~ HERE were once two Rising Young
 Men who went after and got a Raise in Salary They had Different Meth ods of making the Boss open up his Purse Strings and slip an extra .tenspot Into their Pay Envelope. And they also had quite Dissimilar Ideas of just what a Raise Is and how 1t should he Handled.
 Chan No. 1 believed in the Personal At tentien route That is, he played up to the Boss at all times He lost no oppor- tuiiity to let the Boss see how hard he was Plugging Away nt his Job and what n Faithful Workman he was. He made every effort to establish a sort of Personal Eelntionship between himself and the Eoss. He was intimate. without being i'resh.
 If the Boss gave him an inch he didn't take an. Ell He took Secession to meet rhe Boss outside of the office without seeming to do So Purposeiy. Whenever he Put Oyer n Good Thing for the firm he made sure that the Boss knew he was the Lad who'd Landed IL.
 He Got Busy around the office and found out the Salary of every other Chap em- ployed in iIis department. He kept tab on fbe amount of Work they were doing and iIst what they Accomplished He figured out his Chances for Raise to a hairs breadth, and rehearsed over and over again jBst what he would say to the Boss when the time came to Approach him. Finally be decided that he would be Jus tifed in asking the Boss about an h. crease.
 So be went to him and Laid Bare the facts in the case. The boss, who was always wiling to be Convinced. listened to what he had to say and admitted the justice of Many of. his Claims He said he'd Think about It. In the end he gave The young map the desired Raise.
 Chap No. :, working in the same office. also desired. n -Raise. and hoped to get 1t some day. But he wasE't Sitting Up Nights losing sleep over the fact that he hadn't got fl yet. His was the policy of working for the Works Sake and letting fte Raises take care of themselves. Some times he. got BiseQuraged when he'd Put Over. Good Thing for the Firm aud spparentsy had been given but scant Rec orrition for doing SO Bat he kept on Pluerfng Away. firm fin the convention thaf- eft. and Service will win out in fhe epfi and Compel recognition.
 Moreover he didn't believe in the Person al Altepriop smrpod Little Bit He came
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

IL his life he'd been opposed to
 A it-yes' 'm. all his hfe, Time and
 again he'd lectured Blossom about y it In town, and here, first crack
 out of the box. he'd run smack dab into 1t again! Among strangers none of whom they'd known longer than a month-it scarcely seemed likely to manifest itself. But 1t had-and in more virulent form than Mir. Justwed had ever heard 1t before
 Why do women have to gossip. anyway? :? And why-especially why-should gossip be so prevalent among the boarders at Mrs Suburbanites? Couldn't q half-dozen or so women live together in a boarding house for month even without letting their tongues go wagging away with their heads? If not-why not?
 These questions and many more like them did MT. J. propound to Mrs J. as they sat at one corner of the veranda after supper on certain evening in July. And. somehow, Mrs. Justwed had failed to give satisfactory answers to any of them-at least. they must have been unsatisfactory to Mir. J., for he ramblcd on thoroughly warmed up to his subject.
 Now just look at Mrs. Simpklns and that Clarkson woman over there" he ex- cldliueut lnulcdIlnE TWO or the DOar0erS seated at the other end of the porch Look at 'emI They've got their heads close together and I'll bet you a new fall suit against the hole in a doughnut that their tongues are wagging away about somebody here-maybe us! Why do I say that? What makes me think they're gossiping? Why. just look at 'em-dOn't they look as happy as a cat eating cream! That's why! And It's the truth. too!
 ''I haven't said much to you about 1t out here, Blossom, but I've been keeping my eyes open. It's been most interest iRg-thOugh unpleasant study in human nature. The first week we were here l didn't see any of it-I guess you hadn't known the rest of 'em long enough to be let in on the insideI The second week l noticed that you'd become quite chummy with that Simpkins woman and Mrs. Clarkson. Besides, you let fall a few choice fragments of conversations you'd had with those two estimable ladies. And now? Well, now. I'm wondering how we're ever going to live through 1t the rest of the summeri
 Tt may be funny and amusing and ail that. but I can't see that it's anything more than plain, straight, spiteful gossip the remark of Mrs. Clarkson's the other evening, l mean You don't know what I'm referring to7 Well, I'll remind you. The three of you and had just finished
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

- ORSEBACK RIDING is, without HA doubt, one of the best of exercises 4 for women. In late years 1t has n been adopted more frequently in
 the cities, after a decade when 1t was almost forgotten. Those who have never been in n saddle are learning from experts and riding masters. In many of the Eastern cities riding has become part of the education of a child. It is regarded as the very best exercise for the promotion of health to those who know the exhilaration of travelling over a good road on a perfect mount. In fact there Is no substitute for riding as healthful out-of-doOr sport.
 The first difficulties of learning to ride overcome, its good effects soon become noticeable. not only in improved clrcula- ton and appetite, but in the self-control and decision 1t teaches. Quite as neces- sary as the proper use of hand and legs are the mental requirements necessary for the making of a horsewoman. She learns to control by mind as well as by her hands and riding lends an ease and grace which few other accomplishments can give.
 At the age of seven or eight Is the best time to begin taking lessons In riding, for when younger a nrtle girls legs are too short and 1t Is difficult for her to keep her balance. Balance is one of the
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06
To Make Pipings.

"S pipings arc so fashionable and
 form a part of the finish of almost y severy gown, it is well to know how they should be made For a quarter of an inch piping cut the material into bias strips an inch and a quarter wide, and for wider plpings increase the width ac- cordingly. Fold these strips through the center lengthwise and baste close to the fold.
 Under the part to be piped lay the folded strip, allowing a quarter of an inch to show, and three-qunrters of an inch for the seam After the piping is pasted in place stitch it as close to the edge as possible When a narrower pip ing is wanted the goods is cut according ly: but be sure to see that there is good three eighths of an inch allowed for the seam.
Arizona republican., 1910-08-06

A FHCiAL interest attaches tO the Summer Home during this heated
 season and the use to which such ~a home is put has changed quite
 considerable from former times. People that fled the city for the conn try for two or three months during tine summer are now building their summer homes fin such a manner that they can be lived in with comfort during the cold months of the year The light-construct- ed and frail summer cottage is fast giv- ing place to the better and more per manently constructed houses.
 The design shown can be completed at cost of s3,000. It has all the ad- vantages of a supmer cottage, with a large living surrounded on the front and one side by wide, spacious screened piazza that Is also enclosed with glazed windows during the winter months. making a fine sun room. The living room Is opened up well with the. piazza by wide glass or French windows and 1T glazed door In the center. The seo,nd floor Is of mill construction, show