The Detroit times., 1910-11-01
BY CYNTHIA GREY.

1 BY CYNTHIA GREY.
This first experience in home dress
making will take up a waist and
blouse. but right here | want to sug-
gest a few preliminaries.
Begin your work by getting the
proper working implements, a bust
form. your size: yard stick, some
thumb tacks. plenty OF pins. and
sharp pair of scissors. Fix an old
kitchen table, OF a good size, with an
oiicioth covering, for you require
smooth surface TO cut and trace on
Place in your work basket tape
measure, tracing wheel, tailor's chalk
and several spools OF colered thread
for tracing delicate materials. Then
have some one take your measure
ments. after which go to your nearest
agency and get your pattern.
The first model l have chosen Is
to be a waist, and has no trimming
design, yet il is charming. II Is.
known as The Gibson Waist" Made
up in linen, madras, percale, striped
shirtings, smooth finished hannelette
or cotton crepe, all of which come at
12bc per yard IL will make you
serviceable garment.
To develop IL you require for
medium size (36-inch bust measure)
3 "a yards of 27-inch material and
Q "a yards of 36-inch material. You
will find the quantity for your size
specified on the front Of pattern en-
velope. and the expense will be as
follows:
2h yards OF 36-lnch material
at 1212c. ................ SOC
Half dozen pearl buttons at 12c
per dozen. ................... &c
Pattern and thread. ..............l5 c
Total SAC
Before you begin to cut waist, al
ter pattern to At. closely following
directions given Then cut and haste
carefully. Remember that time spent
in basting is never wasted. Follow
directions for making as given on en-
velope. Exercise care in placing
Gibson" plat. II must be two and
one-half inches at shoulder and one
inch at waistline. Get your walstiine
gatherings in place. Lap fronts and
pin before attempting TO MT. In hitting,
smooth garment across 'front.' ana
back and adjust defects at shoulders
and armholes. Allow plenty OF ease.
n armholes is too snug, adjust by
clipping edges. See that collar is not
too high and meets properly at back.
| II you have not used machine ex-
pertinent by running long straight
seams before attempting TO sew the
waist. Finish shoulder and UNDER
armseams by French seams. 10
make. sew narrow seam on wrong
side, turn on right side and sew IN
hastings Stitch Gibson and box
plaits all the way down. Bind sash
and armhole See that sleeve hangs
properly. For buttonholes, lap Guns
and waist fronts and cut horizontally.
Work openings closely.
Our holiday" blouse viii look par
ticularly striking with your tailored
suit on Sunday afternoons or foT an
evening at the theater. II is the lat
est kimono style with the unbroken
shoulder line, a noticeable feature OF
all imported clothes, and Is some
times called the peasant blouse. IL
looks stunning" made OF satin lum-
| ineaux. warp raiah. or pongee, which
come 81 inches wide and sell for 3yc
a yard. We will make our waist OF
the satin lumineauz which comes In
many shade tones. You require three
Yards for developing It, and half a
ward OF silk of a contrasting shade
| for bands.
This blouse will cost you:
! 3 yards at &c.. .S11
! u yard OF silk at 9c........... 20
FOR pattern. sewing silk and
I nuting OF frill ............... %
| Total .................s.s 49,. eA'po
Alter pattern, IL necessary. Before
cutting waist. cut one selyage strip
/ 31h inches wide from l 1-2 yards Of
material for frilI; then divide into
three equal parts the remainder Of
material and Join b. seams Tuck
with l-s-inch plaits every three,quar-
tiers Of an inch, using machine tuck.
err In tucking material. lay strip
I of newspaper under each tuck stitch
I Ing through both. Paper keeps
machine from drawing gods Pull
tit away as soon as stitched. The
bands are cut on the bias. To do this,
fold the Y yard OF silk diagonally
Iacriss center. and measure on sci
three and ono-quarter inches
u and fold up entire material in
Nd one-half inchnfNlds. and>c
.pattern OF material