davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

ing fashions Objectionable, sufficient full
ness is let into the back either by a
single immensely wide box plat or by
cleverly inserted cores slopng from the
rear of the hip seams.
X *
Plated skirts continue to survive the
warfare regularly made upon them, and
this season plaits of any sort are mod
ish, providing that the skirt of which
they form a part is not too Voluminots
and hangs perfectly. Box plalts, how
ever, are decidedly in the lead, and that
variety which is the spice Of fashions,
as well as of existence, is loaned to the
mode by using them alternately with
narrow cores and with straight panels.
Another attractive form of the plated
skirt shows clusters Of rather narrow
side plaits used entire deuX with shapey
panels which, while only few inches
across AT the waist line. gradually widen
to twice their original size as they over
lap the hem of the skirt 1t is on these
gracefully proportional panels that satin
pipings and braid trimmings are used IN
the greatest advantage, as they lend 70
the figure those long lines which add
llcneS TO IHe apparent ItlSiiI VI Liz
pocket Venus and slenderness to the
beauty of heroic mold.
The choice of material for a spring
tailormade depends entirely upon the pur-
pose for which it is chiefly to be used
For the costume which must serve for
sem-formal occasions, for weekend Wis
its at country clubs or for travelling to
and from a fashionable house party, a
handsome diagonal serge. a chiffon mo-
hair or a fine permo-finished fabric is best,
as any of these materials are perfectly
adapted for elaborate braid, MORE and
satin application. The coat should BE
cut after one of the new smart models
permitting of an ornamental belt or
military decoration across the front, and
should have a satin lining of some de-
cided hue, as that apparently unimpor-
tant detail gives the last touch of smart
ness to a really nice costume. For hard
service there are coarse, lightweight
serges, chiffon panamas, chevrons, striped
effects in two tones and the perenniaily
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

might as well be out of the world as out
of the fashion. In no respect Is the nor
NAL waist line more prominent than In
the suit coats at present being brought
forward by the leading tailors of both
Paris and New York. In fact, il would
seem as though these sartorial artists
were working in harmony and were filled
with an amiable ambition to please their
clientele rather than with the idea of
forcing them to adopt a mode which
could only become that rare specimen of
the fair sex-the woman with an abso-
lutely faultless figure.
Another commendable feature of the
current styles in tailored suits is the use
of the belt. partially or entirely enc.r-
cling the waist of the coat, for by virtue
of the great vogue of this erstwhile minor
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

accessory it is quite possible to bring up
to date the tailormade Of yesteryear.
But 1T must be belt of the straight, stiff
variety calculated to make a straight line
about the waist, and should, consequent
", be of leather or firm kid, albeit deco
rated with handsome clasps and often
combined with velvet, MORE. satin or
whatever silken material may trim the
suit. The belt is worn in various ways.
Sometimes it goes about the waist pre-
cisely as the small boy confines the full
ness of his Russian blouse, again it
merely crosses the back Of the coat, thus
taking UP the looseness at that point and
allowing the front forms to fall straight
from the shoulder, or the ends are woven
through straps set upon the under-arm
seams and then Joined directly in front.
Because the coat of last seasons suit
is not Of the loose, box type. it Is no rea-
son why it may not be brought up 20
date by the addition of a belt. for while
it would be absurd to use one with any
outer garment which is actually tight
fitting, like the exceedingly severe, man
nish taiormade model, the demi-clinging,
moderately long coats are easily adapted
to the present mode.
This season especial attention is de-
voted to the sleeve and neck finishings of
tailormade suit coats. While many of
the mannish, turned-over, notched collars
are joined at about the top OF the bust,
the tendency is to extend the opening to-
ward the waist line, the better to exhibit
the dainty blouse worn beneath the coat
a detail which adds immeasurably to the
dressy effect of any tailored costume.
This cut-out scheme necessarily calls for
the deeply rolling collar which Is dis
tinct feature of the best class of spring
models and readily lends itself to the
decorative scheme Of relief. On the sim
pier suits the deep, rolling collar is of
MORE or satin or q tone matching or con-
trasting with that Of the suit, while the
more deliberately tailored costumes are
glorified with collars appliaued or en-
broidered with exquisite blendings of col
ors, sometimes mingled with gold. de-
veloped with heavy embroidery floss or
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

size and covered with the fabric of the
costume. With gray and brown ma
terials, the smoked pearl fastenings ac-
cord we'll The Russian and Hercules
trimmings seem to demand silk cord but
tons, and when a suit is in some dark,
dull tone, unrelieved by a contrasting
neck and wrist finishings, it is frightened
by a chased silver or gold metal disc
placed at the joining of the deep, roll
ing collar.
Plain, plated and paneled skirts are
almost equally in favor. Some of the
imported models have something susges-
tive of the sheath effect about the front
and sides, but fortunately for the peace
Of mind of those women who find cling
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13
MEAT ABSTINENCE CAUSES VEGETABLES TO BE MUCH FAVORED

until brown. basting frequently with
melted butter or Stock.
Cream of Vegetable Soup.
Have ready two hcaping tablespoonfuls
each diced onions, carrots, turnips, Gel
cry and potatoes. Cook slowly in three
tabIespoonfuls of good drippings or but
ter for fifteen minutes, taking care not
to let them brown. Put in the double
boiler over the fire five pints of milk, to
which have been added a bay leaf, a spriS
of parsley and a small blade of mace.
When il comes to a Scald, thicken with
three tabIespoonfuls of flour. smooth.
with IL little OF the milk saved from the
original measure Stir until thickened,
then season with salt and pepper, adding
the cooked vegetables. Cook twenty-five
minutes longer in the double boiler. then
just before serving stir in the beaten
yolks of one. two or three eggs. Serve
with croutcns.
Many a summer gown will have the
skirt made up of a series or ruff1eS or
varying length
Dresses of colored embroidery on white
will be among the unusual gowns for
summer wear
1t is not unusual to find four five and
even six kinds of lace in combination on
Il single gown.
Silk and cotton and silk and linen mix
lures are to be much in evidence In the
spring materials
The newest theater bags are of gold
cloth with d raised embroidery of gold
cord in a pattern.
Worn with auto coats are gloves Of
brown or gray channels or reindeer, with
wide gauntlet cuffs.
Black and deep blue velvets have been
constantly resorted to as becoming con-
trastS in Paris neckwear.
Some of the white leghorns which
being seen at southern resorts have the
brims faced with black
Handwork more elaborate than ever be
fore is shown To advantage on coats and
gowns of wash materials.
Not only are nets. gauZeS and grena-
dimes sown with beads. but also the vel
vets, satinS and brocadeS.
Square or oblong buckles of marqui- .
settle, matching ones evening gown in
color are an effective adjunct to many
II costume.
As happy medium between the high
waist line Of the directoire period and
the low line of the moyen age, the Sirdle,
more attractive than ever, has been
placed on many OF the newest gowns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

OW that the waist
line has definitely
returned to it's nor
NAL position, there
is rejoicing in the
ran ks of those
women who accept
ed the Moyen Age
modes only after
many and loud pro-
testations, and then
only because they
realized that they
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13
No. 3-Walking Dress.

it was cooked. Vary from time TO time
by adding a good-siZed sweet green pep
per cut in pieces. half cup grated bread
crumbs, or a tablespoonful cheese added
Just before taking from the fire. y
tablespoonful of sweet butter Is alSo
added Just before taking from the IRE.
One or two eggs lightly beaten stirred
in at the last makes the dish SO much
the more nourishing.
California Stuffed Bell Peppers.
Use for this delectabe stuffing a cupfuI
and half Of any tender cooked green's,
such as dandeion, spinach. mustard OF
Swiss chard Put a generous Tablespoons
full of butter in the frying pan, add the
green's and heat through. Beat four
eggs, add a cupful of cream to them, and
stir in with the greens. together with
two cups of bread crumbs and one cup
grated cheese. Cook until thickened.
stuff the peppers and bake in the oven
The new short coats will fit loosely and
hang in straight lines.
Fringe is being used on many of the
turbans Of draped straw or silk.
Indications are. that the bolero and
Elton will again come into favor.
Dyed lace of simple pattern is worn I'M
der the top blouse of sheer material.
The coming season is to give much inn
portance to thin stuffs of all kinds.
High shoes of white buckskin promise
to be very popular the coming spring.
Great round bolster muffs are rivals TO
the fiat and large envelope affairs.
The Russian blouse Is one of the proml-
nent features of advance spring styles.
when fashioned from tule, braid and lace.
The marabou handbag, which matches
the turban is one of the newest things TO
arrive.
AS long as the tunic remains in vogue
border trimming will continue to be liked
The new embroidered French linens are
very attractive and will be used for
waists.
The newest black silk stockings are
embroidered up to the instep with tiny
jet beads.
Quaint is a bag of white suede i'll
raised pattern of swan outlined In
briliants
Velvet in black and deep rich tones is
very much In favor for formal gowns
and especially for walking suits
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

NORMAL Waist Lines the
l " Prominent Features of
Suit Coats-The Vogue of
the Leather Belt-Inlaid and
Appliqued Collars and Cuffs
Braid Trimmings and Satin
Pipings-Sleeves of Two Dis
tinct Types Fashions in
Buttons for Tailored Cos
tunes = Plain, Plated and
Paneled Skirts-Popular Ma
terials for Spring Service.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13
Description of the
Fashion Photos Above
No. IA Semi Russian Street Suit.

No. IA Semi-Russian Street Suit.
style are seen in an attractive street
spring suit model to be developed III mo-
hair or light weight serge. The skirt, of
comfortable length for walking. has a
pointed tablier. broken at back and front
with double box plat, affording plenty Of
width about the feet, and the blouSe-tunic
is rendered trim about the wa st by the
use of narrow paits of about the length
of the obsolete dart. A long rolling col
lar displays a dainty lingerie waist, and
Russian sleeves, shirred into the arms
eyes, have the underside form, which
extends into cuff. The black velvet
trimmed gray milan hat is wreathed
with pink roses.
No. 2-For the Weekend Trip.
THE, problem of how to make one cos
tune do duty for a short railway
trip and for morning at country club
during the weekend may be solved by
providing a really smart tailored suit in
some dark shade. The indigo-blue. wide
vale serge on the left has plain. demi-
trained skirt trimmed with black Russian
braid, a military decorated Jacket, with
applied hip piece; close sleeves and ca
nary satin inlaid collar. The blue-and-
white straw turban is trimmed with black
velvet ribbon and aigrettes The other
figure represents a light weight black
broadcloth skirt with satin-piped panels
between cluster plaitings: satin-piped
and belted coat, pastel-blue satin inlaid
collar and cabbage-blue straw turban
trimmed with n shaded blue satin rosette.
No. 3-Walking Dress.
THE tendency to define the normal
/ waist line is evidenced in many Of
the high-class suits imported from Paris.
and in none more so than in those af-
fected by matrons who wish TO emphasize
the youthful lines of the figure. \ me-
dunn shade of mode mohair is used for
smart little walking costume having
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

Il SIXTH lalu III DOS pldllS vi liouei hte
width and a hip-length belted Jacket trim
med with moire-covered buttons Set OF
by a MORE collar embroidered with gold
soutache. The mode horSehair turban Is
draped with piece velvet Of a matching
shade.
No. 4-Young Woman's Costume.
A SMART little costume for informal
"a visits and small luncheons is made
up in diagonal worsted in two tones of
gray. The widely boX-plaited skirt, bare
ly escaping the floor. has left side
panel effect produced by silk hercules
braid applications. The almost tight-tit-
ting. half-long coat, perfectly defining the
figure. is braid trimmed and has an in
laid collar of gray MORE silk. A fine
straw cossack turban draped with velvet.
cravenette shoes and glace kid gloves re-
peat the tones of the suit.
No. 5-Serge Office Suit.
THE; girl who aims to always look trim
during business hours needs at least
two simply tailored suits for each season.
Fo. spring and occasional use during the
summer a good quality all-wool, light
weight serge in dark blue is most sery-
iceabIe The skirt should be widely box
two-inch coat made with mannish sleeves.
rotched collar and smoked pearl button
fasteninss. The black rough straw hat.
faced with black velvet, may be trimmed
with cerise satin, draped and knotted.
No. 6-Debutante's Afternoon Cos
tune.
ONE Of the new diagonal weaves in
~ pastel blue is used for a natty shop
ping suit for debutanteS of the willowy
type of figure. The walking skirt. while
scant from waist to below the knees, where
the pointed tunic terminates, has a simu-
lated underskirt composed of plaits and
sored panels and half-fitting thirty-two-
inch jacket has the gradually widening
fronts, the pointed hip pieces, semi-Rus-
sian sleeves and mannsb notched collar.
The. girlsh looking hat is of tan-colored
net shirred over wire and maline, re-
lieved by bunch of pale pink ostrich
tips and several loops of wide black vel
vet ribbon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13
Motor THE,ZIEET-E;ND TRIP

with fine soutache. Likewise do the
cuffs of the seasons tailormade suit coats
show new ideas in shape and treatment.
Sometimes the wrist finishing is an ex-
tension of the under-arm form of the
sleeve, a unique combination Of the braid
and satin trimmings Of the jacket or
merely a two-inch-wide, perfectly fitting
MORE silk band cuff.
To say that braid trimmings and satin
pipings distinguish 1.-The new spring suits
does not imply that they in any way re-
semble the trimming scheme of garments
heretofore produced. While a great deal
Of coarsely ribbed tailor and finely woven
Hercules braids are used, they are ap-
piled to simulate panels and horizontal
effects, chiefly below the waist lines OF
the palmer coats and upon the sides Of
the walking skirts. Soutache, which APP
parently has come to stay with US for
ever, appears in conjunction with both
Hercules and tailor braids as well as
with the exceedingly heavy and very
ornate Russian braid which has come for
ward in company with the craze for
peasant modes. Satin pipings are so wide
and bulky that they really deserve to be
technically described as satin cordings.
They are chiefly used on the finer quality
Of tailored costumes, meaning the coat
and skirt suits which are intended to do
duty for semi-formal occasions and are
made up in chiffon broadcloth, chiffon
mohair and the finer diagonal weaves.
4 =
Coat sleeves are of two distinct types.
The palmer tailored suits show the mod
erately sized mannish sleeve shirred into
the arms eyes and finished at the wrist
with heavy stitching and solitary but
ton in lieu of a cuff. Then there are the
Russian sleeves, easily recognized by their
fullness below the elbow and a gathered
effect at the wrist. These sleeves almost
invariably have a deep cuff, which in the
case of a rather high-priced costume is
of some slken fabric, attractively orna-
mented with hand work.
Although comparatively few buttons
are used on the new tailormades, they
lend an immense amount of style to such
suits. Some of them are of silver-quarter
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

he usual L.enten
abstinence from
I | e s h. combined
with the wide
spread movement
TO curtail the
m e a t bill and
bring the beef
barons to repent
ance. is giving a
greater impetus to
the evolution OF
appetizing and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

Said l. LET the lambkin no longer
Be led TO the slaughter for me.
Let tue OK. honest beast,
Still continue Ia feast,
With the grass growing up TO his knee.
No more shall they jelly the conger
To crafty palate of mine.
The chick shan't he taken
And served up with bacon
To make me a dish when / dine.
Refined shall be my food.
Aud simply chaste my fare;
t'pon some humble cereal
My soul shall grow ethereal:
Gross thoughts shall ne'er intrudc
To raise my startled hair
II ] hut crunch nut for lunch
And dine upon a pear. Punch
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

Soak the fish in cold water over night
In the morning drain and boil in plenty
of water. Drain and place unbroken in
the center of a hot platter. Place around
1t boiled parsnips, cut in halves, and
cover with a dressing made as follows:
Mix a wine glass of good vinegar with a
cupful of wafer. When boiling stir in a
mixture of two tablespoonfuls of butter,
stirred smooth, with two tablespoonfuls
OF -four. and salt and pepper to season
When thickened stir in three hard-boiled
eggs, chopped fine, and serve with pic
killed. cucumbers and baked potatoes.
Fresh Herring With Sauce Tartare.
Fresh herrings are delicious broiled
whole. Clean and wipe dry, cash through
to the bone at intervals. and rub with
salt, pepper and olive oil; wrap in but
tered paper or broil over clear flame
without wrapping; when ready to serve
loosen from the broiler and slide off on
to a hot platter; spread with sauce tar
tare and garnish with parsley and lemon.
The sauce tartare is a good mayonnaise
to which has been added a tablespoonful
each chopped olives, capers, cucumber
pickles and parsley. This, If you prefer
it cold. A hot tartare sauce is made by
mixing together in a small bowl one ia
blespoonful each of vinegar and Worces-
tershire sauce, one teaspoonful of lemon
juice, a saltspoonful of salt, dash of
pepper and one-third cupful of butter
Drowned in a frying pan. Heat all the
ingredients but the butter over hot water,
then strain the butter into it.
Waldorf Astoria Curried Oysters.
Peel and cut into thin slices a half of
a medium-sized Spanish onion. Put a
tablespoonful butter In frying pan, add
the onion and fry brown. Stir in a table,
spoonful and half curry powder. adding
another tablespoonful butter. Mix well,
then pour in gradually a cup of broth,
cover and let come to a boil. Peel and
chop a small sour apple and crate half
cocoanut. Put into the pan with the
other ingredients and cook slowly until
the cocoanut is tender. Mix a tablespoon
full Of -four in little water and thicken
the mixture; season with salt and pepper
and cook five minutes. Put cup of
strained tomato into a stewpan with fifty
oysters, their liquor and half the milk of
a cocoanut. Simmer for a few minutes,
stirring occasionally. Add to the first
mixture with a tablespoonful lemon
Juice, then turn the curry on to a hot
dish, garnsh with croutons and serve
with a separate dish Of rice.
Raked Ha1ihut Steak
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

grating of nutmeg, and send to the table
with a spoonful of cream on each plate.
Serve with croutons.
Broiled White Fish.
Clean and wash with a cloth dipped in
salt water. Wipe dry. Split down the
back, remove head, wipe over with olive
oil and dust with salt and pepper and
place in q double wire broiler well greas-
ed. Broil the flesh side first. as the skin
scorches easily. Move the broiler from
time to time SO that all parts Of the fish
may be equally cooked. then turn and
simply crisp the skin side. The broiling
will take about fifteen minutes for a
slide off carefully onto a heated plat
ter, leaving the flesh side OF the fish
uppermost Spread with maitre d'hotel
butter. garnish with sliced lemon covered
with finely minced parsley and serve pip
ing hot
Baked White or Blue Fish.
4 good dressing for baked fish consists
Of pint of bread crumbs mixed with a
quarter pound minced fat salt pork, or a
half cup butter, or drippings. and sea-
soned with salt, pepper. minced parsley,
a little grated lemon and hint of thyme
daiu S"cci iiidi Jul StuIl tic iioii anu
sew up. Lay wafer-thin slices of salt
pork in the bottom of a baking pan, or
its equivalent in dripping, place the fish
on it. lay more waters of the pork or
drippings on top. put into the pan lit
tie boiling water seasoned with tomato
juice. and bake to a rich brown. basting
frequently. Bass, weakfish, lake trout
and paddock may be baked in the same
way. When the fish is done take up on
hot platter and garnish with watercress
and sliced lemon. Serve with rich
gravy made by adding a tablespoonful of
flour to the drippings in the pan. When
blended add a cupful or more of hot
water with tomato sauce to flavor and
cook to a smooth sauce.
Salmon Croquettes.
Prepare two cupfuls salmon freed from
skin and bone. minced fine. and seasoned
with a level teaspoonful salt, a good dust
ing of paprika or white pepper. a tea
spoonful minced parsley and a teaspoon
full lemon juice. Make white sauce by
melting two tablespoonful butter in a
saucepan, adding four tablespoonfuls
cornstarch, and stirring and cooking I'M
til we'll blended. Then add two cups hot
milk and stir until smooth and thick.
Season with trife of salt and pepper
to taste. add the fish. stir until heated
then turn out on a platter to cool. When
cold and firm shape into croquettes, roll
in fine bread crumbs, then in egg and
again in crumbs, and fry in deep, hot
fat. Serve very hot with a garnish Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-02-13

inch thick Wipe with a clean, wet cloth
and scrape the skin. Season with salt
and pepper and brush over with table
spoonful each of butter and flour cream
ed together, add a small quantity of
grated nutmeg if you like, cover with
thin slices of fat, salt pork, cut in mar
row strips laid across dlagonally and
bake about twenty minutes IN hot oven
or broil under a gas flame. Lay diagonal
Iy across a hot platter, pour white sauce
or caper sauce favored with essence of
anchovy and lemon in the lower right
hand corner, arrange mound OF Par1sl-
enne potatoeS in the left-hand upper cor
ner. garnish with lemon and parsley and
serve.
Potatoes au Gratin.
Make white sauce, using one table
spoonful each Of -four and butter, quar-
ter teaspoonful white pepper. teaspoon
full of salt and cupful of milk. Cut
cold boiled potatoes into thick slices or
half-inch cubes, butter a baking dish
nut in a layer of potatoes. then one of
salt and butter. Continue until all are
in. The proportion of potato should be
two cupfulS. To one cupful of dried and
sifted bread crumbs add one teaspoonful
of melted butter and stir until evenly
mixed. Spread over the contents of the
baking dish and place in a quick oven
twenty minutes. or until delicatey
Drowned For change little onion
juice, chopped parsley grated cheese
may be added to the same.
Baked Beans With Apples.
Soak one pint pea beans over night.
In the morning cover with fresh water
and bring to a boil. When the scum
rises skim it off bring again to a boil
then drain. Rinse well and pour over
the beans quart of water, half cup
sugar and salt and pepper to season.
Bring again to boil and simmer until