Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-08-27
The Straight and Narrow Silhouette Still the IDEAL
Coats May Be Any Length That Suit the Figure.
Tailors Making the Fur Fly as Trimming.
The Pierrot Suit With Velvet Rosettes.

skin. Utmost simplicity, YOU see: We,
what chic. what cachet what hopele ssly
inimita Die style for the average tailor 10
duplicate,
Ratine is a new wool material that is
as light and soft as thistledown. and
which Is used for smart motor coats and
for utility suits. Brocades of great beauty
are being used for handsome limousine
and evening coats. Broadcloths and
serges hold the palm for coat and skirt
costumes. and there are basketweaves
and cheviots which answer for rough
weather coats and suits. All Of these
materials are more or less trimmed with
fur. JIudsoR seal being the most popular
fur for bands and border trimming.
though the soft silky moleskin is used
on SOME suits and on frocks of light ma
teralt
!. ThoAgh Paris has not gone into mourn
ing, al has much of the fashionable so-
ciety of. England. because OF the deaf.
of the English king. this lamentable
eyent-nas influenced all French costumes
for the courteous Edward VII was a
great favorite at the French capital. and
the attitude of the French people has
been most sympathetic toward England s
loss The great Paris dressmakers, also
have made most of the mourning for the
royalties in England and this has natur-
ally had an influence on other costumes
turned out during the same season. Black
and white is very fashionable; grays OF
all sorts are high in favor and black-and-
gray combinatons. though somber enough
in tone, are immensely chic. All the
shades OF mauve and violet will also he
much in vogue, and there is a new prune
color which is particularly well liked by
the Paris couturfers. Huckleberry is a
blue-violet shade, which Is shown il
cloth and satin fabrics, elderberry being
a similar shade with more of the bur
gundy tone.
The coats OF these somber suits are
frightened. however. with very cheerful
Innings OF bright satin or of Persian silk
a pretty little suit by Cheruit made OF
blue lavender satin CLOTH has a coat lin
ing OF pindotted white swiss over thin
white silk and the effect Is decidedly
dainty. Lovely pale coIored Innings OF
apricot pink. tea rose yellow and cafe
an lait tan are put into street tailored
coats, and the French tailor never forrets
the little shirred lining pockets that arc
so invaluable for the slowing away n,
small belongings.
A black self-striped mohair suit b. Jeann.
Lanvin. pictured today, Is trimmed
with black and scarlet changeabie velvet
and the lining is bright cherry-colored
satin which makes a charming splash oi
color when the coat Is thrown across q
chair-back in tearoom or restaurant
Ihs SUIT = interesting also because OF
the trimming OF ribbon rosettes thi.
Pierrot-like ornamental ton being lust now
the smart notion in Paris
Ihough the new tailormades are any
! thing but masculine in type, freakisf
cuts and eccentric modes Of trimminr
making Them more feminine in STYLE thar
any costumes that have been brought out
IN years. the general outline of the sill.
nouette na> mannish suggestion. This
oue 10 the very narrow. straight skirt
Whcn clihss closely TO the limbs. and to
the short. loose coat on boSy lines The
monalr Lanvin suit. mentioned just above
mas inns ooxy, mannish cut, though the
Jauhty little jacket is built in overlap
p.ns ssc'iohs caught together on the hips
with the anything but masculine rosettes
/: Box coats of this type are used for
morning wear. the more definitely fitted
garments appearing in the afternoons a.
costumes du ceremonie. A suit by Pa
quin. also pictured. is of the latter order
This suit is made OF dark blue MORE silk
and. though the lines seem simple il is q
deceitful Paquin simplicity, the cut hay
ing all the intricacy of this artiste's rep.
resentative models. The skirt fall.
straight at the side. but at back and from,
outlined with a cording of velvet The
quaint little coat with it's suggested waist.
coat garnished with huge buttonhole mo.
tifs OF velvet is very chic, and further
trimming is added i'm the way of blue
velvet cuffs and revers OF Persian satin
At the back of the coat Is the square
sailor collar. an introduction of the Cal
lots. but now appearing on all the smar;
models this season. This sailor collar Is
placed straight across the back and at.
tached TO the revers in front by a strar
OF trimming on the shoulders.
An American tailor suit in imitation
OF the French box type has a hip-lengtf
coat. almost united. and q straight, yer,
narrow skirt 10 the ankles. AT the lower
edge of the coat are three tucks. and sim
liar tucks are placed at the foot OF the
skirt.
Diagonal. curved and vandyked cuts ar,
the rule on the gay little tailored coat.
OF the new season. 1t is unusual to Sc,
a coat front opening straight from bus
10 hip. without a slant in one direction
| or a lap in another. I.apped-over effectl
ga nroc.fI ~.