The San Francisco call., 1910-01-30

6f the waist. with tuckins or hem-
stitching or an embroidered edge. Very
attractive detachable side fri0s, for USE
on the plain waists, are to be found
In every display OF jabOts and neck
wear, and many OF them are exceed
ingIy beautiful The center IS almost
invariably formed by a strip OF inser'
tion Of one OF the heavy laces, such
as Irish or cluny, and the sheer liner
rufiing Is often bordered with mar
row edgfng Of the same lace On the
side opposite to the fri11, the right side
for the ruffie is always on the LETT,
shaped strip Of fine linen IS often
placed. with buttonholed edges and del
icate designs in hand embroidery.
The tailored models are used a great
deal this season, and even the flny
blouses OF chiffon cloth are many OF
them made in styles that are plain and
severe. Small buttons trim many Of thu
waists, sometimes covered with the
material. or made OF metal or cOmpO-
sition; and frog effects in braid are
also frequently seen.
The waist OF a gown invariably wears
out before the skirt. or at least becomes
shabby, so that with several separata
waists a suit can be made to do duty
emuch longer. and at the same time look
better than IL only the bodice OF ths
gown is used Tt is not to be mag
be given up easily. and II seems likely
that the separate waist. In some form
or other, wiki remain with Us from sea-
son TO season as a permanent member
of the wardrobe.
THE TURBANS AND TOQUES
Among the turbans worn at this late
winter season are many in which some
tightening of the effect is apparent, as IL
IN preparation for the spring. The tur-
shown in the illustration. is an exampls
OF this tendency. and quite often one
sees turbans made entirely Of tulle and
trimmed with feathers or silk flowers.
These are worn side by side with the
wintry looking fur or velvet creations.
which will be kept in countenance by
the season and the weather for some
time TO come.
Swansdown trimming. which looks
like a feathery snowbank, Is used
great deal; 1t is one of the most strilS-
ing materials that has been seen in
the millinery this winter, and its cost
has kept 1t from being worn too COM
monty. otherwise 1t might have shared
the fate of the cheaply initiated err
mine.
The crowns OF the turbans. are often
made OF the duh silver 1aces and bull
lions. and it IS matter for speculation
whether this craze for metallic effects.
partment of the fashions for the last
few months. will appear in the styles
OF the coming season.
Feathery sprays OF paradise and
gourah are among the favorite trim
mings. and ostrich is now, as always,
indispensable.
Flowers. especially roses In silk OF
the soft pastel shades are often used
even on the heavy toques OF fur and
velvet. and many bird and breast now
elites are to be seen.
In placing the turban or toGue on
the head. the feather ornament IS gen
orally turned a little to the left but
this IS a very elastic rule. and the prin-
cipal idea IS to place the hat IN such
a way that ii will form the most har-
monious lines with the wearer's face
and hair. In some cases the hat may
look best with the ornament to the
front or to the right; and the same IS
true Of the fitting. although the slant
is supposed to be toward the right
some hats need to have the brim line
level. and X tilted appear to have been
accidentally knocked crooked
There is one safe rule. however. that
can be followed in all cases: the hats
and turbans should be placed as far
forward as they can becomingly be
worn; for nothing takes the style out
of a hat as completely as placing 1t
too far back on the head.
The turbans are among the most
comfortable Of the forms OF headgear
especially In windy weather. for even
when they are heavy they have not the
tendency to tip and veer with every
breeze. as the brimmed hats have a way
OF doing. but Mt snugly and closely TO
the hair.
The large hats continue to be worn
a great deal. especially for dress oc-
casions, but the turbans seem to ha
even more popular. and are seen I'm
every style and variety and In tar
greater numbers than they were earlier
In the season