davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
THE CABOCHON

TT IS any round ornament. From
that point it's description widens
- into wonderful variety that IN
cludes hats and gowns, and the use OK
different materials only serves to IN
crease its extent.
On gowns the cabochon can be huge
jeweled ornament. This, again, can be
made the center around which ribbon.
lace or chiffon is wound like cable or
as q frilling.
On the hats this favorite trimming ap-
pears in many roles. Velvet is twisted
in rope to form a ring for holding
loops and bows.
Lace is frilled around roses to form
an immense ornamental disk on the
turned-up brim of a hat: or rings of
movers and loops of ribbon in alternat-
Ing rows are used to trim the crown OF
a turban
Talle and gold cord outline a jeweled
face Of brim. For outing hats. fringed
linen is effectively used around velvet
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
A Sea Gown

"TE HAVE had flower gowns and
Wv historical costumes on and OF
the stage; we have had cos
TUNES that by curious colorings have
been supposed to epitomize certain
moods of. the wearers: but it has
remained for an artistic eye to catch
the shade and shine of the sea" and
with gray and green and blue to com
bine satin and chiffon in one of the
most gorgeous evening dresses of the
season.
Best Of all. when you count the
cost. 1t is not beyond the consideration
or the usual woman when the selection
OF the good-looking gown must be
Over a grayish-green satin a tunic
OF blue Chiffon is hung This is cut
on slim and straight lines and hangs
halrway between knees and floor
That Is not all. Again a tunic of green
silk net. the shade of the sea on gray
oay. Is hung. the whole embroidered
with gems of the aquamarine color.
renewed here and there by the dull
seed pearls This embroidery forms l.
plastron below the plain yoke of gray
tulle; of course, the sleeves are short
and the yoke is square
When with this sea gown the for
tunate wearer wears a glistening dog
collar of silver incrusked with green
or blue stones. and a bracelet 10 match
mark this point, madameD, the ef-
feet is worthy Of the name of a crea-
tion.
The charm. iridescence and beauty
OF the sea are here. 1t is a dress
that can stand for individuality, and
Ii will not meet face to face it's equal
at dinner or dance.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
A Double Tunlc

OR evening robes the tunic, so pop
nlar. has been repeated, so that
double idea Is secured on one
skirt
The French, when they wish to suggest
colors that are almost indefinable, use
yelling of the most transparent quality
over other opalescent shades.
In one lovely model the upper tunic
is of the same material as the draped
portions OF the bodice and sleeves. This
falls In straight band around the skirt.
dipping down at the back. A band Of
embroidery outlines the edge of this
filmy lace.
The under tunic. which reaches almost
to the hem. following the line of the
first, Is of chiffon weighted down with
row OF wooden beads colored to match
the rec shades of the gown. The foun-A
dation Is OF dead-rose charmeuse. but
there Is really very little of tnis silk In
Doubly blessed is this gownl
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

cut from the material. embroidered
with pink and rose rope silk in a
rambling design. These bands cross
In front and form. the girdle, and the
tiny vest of the same soft flannel is
tucked across it's width.
White materials are ideal for all
negligees and in this most washable
of stuffs there is no more serviceable
garment than that of embroidered
swiss. = 1t Is its own decoration. and
by the use of cherry ribbons or those
gotten to match the color scheme of
the boudoir. richness to any desired
extent is given.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

~ OWADAYS the hatpin is an i'm
I'M portant millinery accessory. and
\ cleverly combines beauty with
utility in an almost unfeminine way. :
So important is this little ornament
that the only trimming on a large shape
will be jeweled disks that are very sat
isfying to the woman who aims at cle-
CANT simplicity.
Besides the huge round forms, there
are long cylindrical pins studded with
jewels; there are conventional forms
that hint of the Orient in their color
ing; there are pins that offer sugges-
tions of home manufacture, for brocade,
tapestry and linen are the materials
used. One little shop in Paris has shown
pins with tops of straw or raffia, woven
to match the hats with which these
novelties are TO be worn.
In another milliner's. lace flowers are
used to cover the Dresden silk cushion.
These are extremely pretty with the
tulle turbans and large lace-trimmed
sfraws.
The Frenchwoman insists upon hat
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
A Watch for the Cuff

MYTH many of the mannish jack
wv cts the stiff linen cuffs are be-
ing affected.
The latest novelty is a cuff watch
to be inserted as button in the
left cuff, just as a stud would be. 1t
is inconspicuous and extremely conven-
lent, for the maker has insisted upon
terfere In no way with the reliability
as a timekeeper
To the women who refuse to wear
their watches pinned in tempting to
the thief array at the front, and to tbs
ones who cannot with convenience push
one below the belt, this new idea comes
as suggestion. Whether 1t will be
adopted Is another question.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
A LINEN GOWN

In la Barricade.'' one of the new
plays, a very attractive gown is Of old
rose linen heavily embroidered with
narrow gray braid. Three-quarter length
sleeves. the collarless guimpe of tulle,
the belt and the suggestion Of the tunic
are combined on this one costume in a
delightful epitome of the seasons lines
Sheer voile. chiffon and mousseline are
worn over satin slips. the varying OF
the color of which gives a different ef-
feet for the frock; surely a practical
suggestion!
Drecoll is using taupe voile over cerise
for an attractive afternoon gown. The
embroidery is done with coarse stitches
OF linen thread-simplicity at its best,
many of the Parisiennes declare.
Just hint now and then in these
spring days Of the glorious balmy April
beyond lures us into bursting out in
the beauty of colors that are always be-
coming to the eternal feminine. whether
at the play. in the shops or out in the
green walks Of the environs Of this gay
city. ELOISE-
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

to result successfully. They do not
make mistakes. and it is well to follow
directions in the copying of their models.
Just trifiing difference may mar the
gown
Rose batiste. with washable ribbon
bows to match. has been used for the
very loose robe. One OF the very sim
plest designs this. but its beauty lies in
a choice of rich, creamy lace with in
sertion OF the same pattern and In Its
extremely comfortable cut 1t is intend
ed as a slip-on garment for all such
hurried moments as would exclude the
fitted negiigee
We have a more shapely model in the
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
plish. they never approach the pink

plish. they never approach the pink
tones.
The house frock intended to do neg
ligee duty has been successfully de-
veloped in dotted swiss, with wide
lace frills. with broad Insertion to
match 1T and with charming inset
of puffed footing wherever there is
insertion. The little garment buttons
comfortably at the center of the back.
A flannel robe for seashore or noun
tain use is shown in surpHce line in
the last model. Made of deep rose
-elored flannel of most desirable
thinness, 1t is trimmed with bands
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

TF THE amateur be wise in her
generation. she will fill in the sew
II ing time on her dressing gowns and
negligees while she waits to as
simulate the styles that have been given
her In such liberal number
We are always certain of the little
indoor frock or boudoir robe. and we
do not hold off as fearfully as when
planning for the street frock or evening
gown.
French modistes who originate these
pretty frivols are more than clever
they are artists in their choice of ma
ter:al and decoration: they recognize the
necessity for touches of color and for
combinations Of sheer stuffs calculated
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
Separate Coats

"HERE is a revival of the separate
coat though it has departed en-
IL phatically from the long top
s-~ats and now It is a part of a costume
ruau Is composed OF skirt of checked
nlaterial. with one or the colors recur-
ring in the plain short jacket.
A blue and tan check is particularly
nodish when worn with a 5aunty blue
coat perhaps trimmed with braid. en-
broidered plaques or stitching. The cos
tune can be- changed by wearing a bis
cuit-colored jacket of the short length
so much in vogue, but cut on an entirely
different line.
Blue and green, black and white. diff
ferent tones OF gray are some of the
checks within the reach of every one.
For travelling suits or for business. the
checked skirt with its separate coat is
TO be welcomed.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
The New Veil

TT ORIGINATED in Paris. but you
need not wait upon the pleasure OF
the French or the amiability OF the
shipping clerk to adopt the very at
tractive and convenient veil for this
spring.
The mesh should be Of coarse silk
filet. the threads of a gossamer-like
texture. Beauty without the trip to.
the oculist is promised.
But let's get to Hecuba- The main
point is that the veil is divided in
front. falling from the turban in
straight lines at each side and the back.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

next, blue 3hanghai silk with deep
violet satin girdle. 1t has been Tapped
over in surplice shape with flowing
sleeves. The plastrons OF German valen-
ciennes lace are put upon the surface
in the easiest possible manner. and the
silk has not been cut away from be-
meath them.
The combining of blue and violet is a
delicate matter that the French so well
understand. and which may be indulged
in by those who copy. II it be borne in
mind always that the violets used with
blue are by no means lavender. and that
even although they border on the pur-
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
AVOID EXTREMES

Short women should not wear i'm
mense hats. even though the shapes be
alluring in line and decoration. A wom-
an in the small class cannot possibly
wear with any distinction large Gains
borough hat To this type the full-length
mirror viii show to what extent the
proportions Of figure can be altered IN
aspect.
Extremes OF fashion are never IN good
taste. and the figures of the wearers
must be considered when making a
choice.
OF course, there is always the ad-
visibility Of selecting flowers that will
not fade away, and material that will
perish in the first spring storm must be
eschewed by the wise woman Of mod
crate income
Never economic by making one hat
play the role Of outing hat and the
shape for dressy occasions. for the con-
tinuous wear will soon render it shabby
for both. The first double expense Is
better economy in the end
When considering the hat. do not for
get the woman Each can be made
ridiculous by an inappropriate combina-
ton: and there is the promise Of added
beauty to both If the guiding stars be
conservatism. a knowledge of good
points and little defects, and the eternal
fitness OF things
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
NOVEL HATPINS

PIN sets that are kept with their re-
spective shapes. and on no occasion will
the disks be used to fasten the wrong
hat on her head. 1t is just one more
evidence of her attention TO the little
details that combine to create a har-
monious whole
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

G.sAs. Some cabochons are Of leather,
others are of velvet ribbon.
The form is most important as trim
ming, and offers ornamentation at the
cost OF little material and small time.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20

SOME OF THE
NEW HATS

TN THIS season Of general upneaNal'
when silk vies with flowers on
spring millinery and raolcaA
changes in shapes and trimming
clamor for first place in the modistlc
scale, it were well to hearken to the
wisdom that comes from experience
and TO keep in mind the fact that two
things must be considered when
choosing a hattie lines and colors
Of the model IN general and the suit
ability Of that particular style TO
your own type.
There always will be the artistic
woman who intuitively can select the
beautiful, regardless of the dictates OF
fashion. But to the other class OF
maker or buyer let there be sounded
q sharp warning against the pitfalls
awaiting the reckless and inconsid-
crate following of spring fashions.
One OF the most important factors In
the becomingness of a hat is the face
beneath. Indeed, we may include the
figure also, for in spite Of the fact
that this latter occupies a fair amount
Of time in the planning Of a gown. 1t
claims your attention when the selec-
tion OF hat is made.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
FRENCH
FASHION
NOTES

PARIS, March 10.
:" TITH characteristic enthusiasm
Y" Of the French. the great play
"Chantecler'' has been received
as one of the potent influences
in the field of fashion. In the Maison
Lewis many models. modified and soft
ened down. retain the idea of the color
and decoration. but are sufficiently con-
servative TO admit of a sane expIOita-
.tion on pretty heads
A large. dark-blue hat. with wids
brim faced with black. is a striking ex-
ample of what the Partisan milliner can
do when given a gentle hint At the
back huge panache OF cocks feath-
ers is placed, held by a brilliant red
pieated fan, to represent the cocks
comb
The pheasant. with its gold and tan
coloFs, is extremely well liked as TRIM
ming for smaller hats. and birds and
gayly colored plumage are coming as a
change forA high-erowned turbans.
PLUMEs ON HATS
The Louis XVI shape turned up AZ
the back is trimmed with long bright
plunes. or changeable ostrich feath-
ers. or combination of colors arranged
to give the iridescent effect so notice
able in afternoon costumes.
All shades of blue will be used for
flowers. The cornfower blue. the
"bleu- -de-roi." the dull tapestry bIues
and all the violet shades are favored
for the flower wreaths on the large fat
hats.
For evening gowns. tulle of different
colors will be placed in layers, with the
delightful changeable effect so striven
for. These little short dance frocks are
frequently trimmed with artificial flow
ers, occurring at the girdle, in garIands
on the skirt or outlining yoke and
sleeves.
There are two new styles of hair
dressing much worn. There is what we
call over here the "coiffure Moyen-
Age, which IS an Arrangement OF
platts brought from the back and wound
In disks over each ear, much Ike the
medieval headdress. Then there is the
fashion that seems to be a reflection of
grandmothers days, when the hair was
parted and drawn into two curls at
each side of the head.
Little fans must now match the even
ing gowns in color and material, and
the same pattern Of embroidery must be
used for their decoration.
The San Francisco call., 1910-03-20
AS OTHERS SEE YOU

There are some shapes that require
absolutely a support Of hair beneath.
All Of US have felt the sense of made
quacy when gazing at the aching
void at the back of turban or cava-
lier shape that has projected from the
head with a shelhike appearance.
Endeavor 10 see yourself as others see
you, and refuse TO be tempted by q
shape whose requirements you are not
willing to fulfil
The hat turned up at the back is
rnodish but trying II generally sug-
gests a straight line in front that must
be wrestled with and conquered II sue
cess be your aim.
And right here let It be suggested
that the nose is an important point to
be considered. The profile is capable Of
being made ridiculous or more attract
i've by the tilt of the front brim. Do
not neglect a look at your profile.
Long. oval faces are lessened in the
extreme effect IL a hat OF considerable
width be worn. A round. fat face
should not shine forth under q round
beehive shape, giving the effect Of two
overlapping disks. The upturned brdm
at the side requires soft hair beneath
it. while the stiff. straight brim Of the
always good-lookng sailor is very ap-
prcpriafe when worn with what might
be called a tailored" coiffure-neat,
straight and lacking in ornamentation-
It is not difficult to predict a safe and
sane wearing of the mushroom type
that is again in the ranks. Even women
realize the absurd extent to which this
shape was worn, enveloping the head
and resting upon the shoulders. with the
disastrous and ludicrous results of a
caricature.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
NEW YORK rRopuCE ,1ARKEr.

New York. October 15.-Flour-Firm and
barely steady. Spring patents. s5.e5955o;
winter patents. s5.5o@5.s0. Rye Flour and
Rye-Steady. Buckwheat Flour and Buck
wheat-Qulet. Cornmeal-Quiet. Barley
Firm. Wheat-Steady; No. . red, 81 eleva-
tor, and s1.oois T. o. b. afloat. Futures clos
ed &c. net higher. December, s102ss; May,
sLWM. Corn-Steady: No. 2, 57Ac. elevator,
domestic basis, to arrive. and 57Ac. +. O.
afloat Futures closed unchanged to &c.
net advance. December s. c.: May, 66c.
Oats-Steady: standard white. s7,sc. Futures
closed A@kc. net advance. October, Sc;
December. s7kc.: May, s9lsc.
! Beef, Lard, Tallow, Petroleum and Rosin
All steady. Turpentine-Ftrm Rice
Quiet. enthusiastically. sugar-Raw. mar
ket steady: refined, quiet coffee-Futures
opened and closed quiet at net loss OF
lie; Santos, No. I. 11.s@1Nc. mild.
Butter-steady. Cheese-Firm and I'M
changed; receipts. 1850 boxes; no exports.
Eggs-Firm; receipts, 5.9s7 crates. State,
Pennsylvania and nearby hennery, brown.
fancy. s4Q3scs; gathered brown. sl@ssc.:
fresh gathered, extra first, 2s!s q Soc; do.
first. es1s @27,sc.; do seconds 24@25c.;
fresh gathered, dirties, No. I, candled. p %
22c.; do, No. g 10000.
Cottonseed oil market was quiet with
prices easy under cheaper crude offerings.
scattered liquidation In October and lack
Of snot. Futures closed 4@l0 points net
lower october, Sal @s.4i; November, 1890
751. December, S.4o@S45; January. 744@7.46.
February 7.4oGD752. Prime crude. prompt.
S.S6: prime yellow. S.6S9S,64; prime summer
white, S.40@1o0O.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16

q TO arrive Futures opened steady at a
decline of 1oa1l points in resnonss - ,oy.
er cables than Expected and some little
week END selling out By longs The
weather map was extremely favorable. as
~ indicated warm and dry weather every.
where in the cotton belt, and bui1etin,
from the Weattar Bureau concerning tho
tropical storm showed that danger to the
cotton section was no longer to be feared
TINS increased selling orders, and prices
gave way under teh pressure. the trading
months at the end of the first half hour OF
business standing i5Gls points under yes
terday's close. Around the middle OF the
morning large exports from South Atlantic
ports steadied the market. but selling be-
came heavy again toward noon. Futures
closed steady. Closing bids: October, l445;
November I54: December. 1856; January.
1854; March, i4ss; May, 1885: July, 1876.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
MARINE INTELLIGENCE.
PORT or RICHMOND. ocToBER *

PORT OF RICHMOND, OCTOBER Is. 1910
ARRIVED.
Steamer Berkeley, Shelly, Norfolk, mer-
chandise and passengers. Old Dominion Line.
Steamer Pocahontas. Graves. Norfolk and
James River landings merchandise and pas
sengers, Virginia Navigation Company.
James River landings. merchandise and pas
sengers. Phillips Line.
SAILED
Steamer Berkeley. Shelly. Norfolk. mer-
chandise and passengers. Old Dominion Line.
Steamer Aurora, Barrett, Petersburg and
James River landings, merchandise and pas
sengers. Phillips Line.
Schooner Alice G, Ogden, signaigo. Will
cox Wharf. merchandise.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
CATTLE MARKETS.
RICHMOND LIVE STOCK MARKET.
(Sales at Union Stock Yards)

Richmond, Va, October l5 1910.
Report of the live stock market for tho
week ending October 10:
Receipts-cattle. Bis head: calves. IS head;
sheep. II head: hogs. $50 head
Best steers. 81 9Gc.: few extra higher;
medium TO good, Az q 5l4c.; common to fair
3H9ikc.; best hefers, SIC; medium to
good. Hs95c.: common to fair. sls q 4c.; hes,
cows &C.: medium to good, 3isg3Ac.; com.
6@7lsc.: extra, S@s1sc. Cows and calves
SOS q 5000 per head Sheep. 2isG4,sc.; lambs,
497c.: extra, 7iac.; best hogs, &c.: few ex.
ira. exc; fair TO good. shaS%c.: COWS and
stays 79Sc.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
COTTON MARKETS.

New York. October B-Lower cables than
expected and more favorable weather re-
ports were followed by quite sharp re-
action in the cotton market to-day. the
12917 points The market opened steady
at decline of sdl3 points in response to
lower cables, AT first the selling was re-
stricted by early reports indicating that
South Florida and threatened to sweep up
the South Atlantic coast, and shortly after
the opening prices rallied or points from
the lowest. In other respects the weather
news was generally favorable however.
there being no sign OF frost. and when pri-
vate wires were received from New Or
leans claiming that there had been
change in the course OF the tropical storm.
which would carry 1t out over the Atlantic,
selling here became heavier as result OF
active realizing for over Sunday. and opera
lions for reaction followed the recent
rapid advance and the new high records OF
yesterday. There seemed to be a cons:d-
cradle demand from trade interests on a
scale down, but last prices were at the
lowest of the day. Reviews OF the dry
goods situation were generally encouraging,
as they suggested that the high prices had
not checked demand, and comparatively
largo business was reported at Fall River.
These reports in connection with many prt-
vate wires from interior Southern points,
claiming very firm spot markets no doubt
helped tn orally after the opening decline.
but local sentiment seemed to favor reac-
ton on the ground that prices were high
and that the good weather In the South
justified some increase In estimates of the
crop.
Receipts at the ports to-day were e5 900
bales against 4s,27 last week and 71,s77 last
year. For the week 100000 bales against
days receipts at New Orleans 5oSl bales
against 972O last year.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
CHICAGO GRAIN MARKET.

chicar 60 ILL.,. October 15.-Taklng hint
from, European markets, all OF which clos
ed to-day at an advance wheat here FIN
ished with a net gain Of = to y @ w; The i.e
end Of trading left corn down Me, oats Is, on
from o,ac loss to rise OF 15c.
The leading futures ranged as follows:
-''SSf NY'TS-.''S Oman High low Close
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
MISCELLANEOUS MARKETS.
PEANUT MARKET.
Richmond. Va, October ia. /

(Reported by Rodgers Mccabe & Co,
Petersburg. Va, October 15-Peanuts-
spanish.-Market hrmer. sales made to-day
at Sl-3a per bushel; old stock virtually en-.
hausted. Weather conditions remain nm.
favorable for harvesting new crop, $50
per bushei being offered freely for new
goods; none offering.
MISUNDERSTANDING weak with few sales.
Fancy farmers stock, 393kc: machine
picked stock. 2H92&c.; Smelling stock "a
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
NAVAL STORES.
Sava

= Savannah. Ga, October l5.-Turpentine-
Firm at 74a a74hc.; receipts 4ss casks;
shipments 90 casks: stock 1852 casks. Ros-
in-Firm; sales 2o4s barrels; receipts 1913
barrels shipments $50 barrels: stock S. 6s7
barrels! Quote: B, sb.G45.95.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1910-10-16
DRY GOODS MARKET

New York, October 1.-THE cotton goods
market grows stronger. Amoskeag tickinss
and Atlantic brown sheetings have been
advanced nc. a yard. The yarn market
continues very strong. Linens are firm and
in steady request.