davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

of half or a full dozen, are set on the
back edge of the double Sits at the back
of the coat. If of fabric these often
times match the colored lining, as in the
case of a blue serge lined with dove
gray blue, the buttons being of the lin
ing material, rather heavy grade of
surah. Again these buttons are grouped
on the collar, in this instance, of shawl
shape and rolling to the bust line. Some
models roll to the waist line, though
the opening at the neck extends only
to the bust When this is the case two
or three large buttons accomplish the
fastening. Hip-length coats is the die
tum this season, and since we have so
successfully taken off our hips and in
cidentally years of our age, with proper
corseting, there is no reason to expect
anything but universal approval of this
length garment-the youthfulness of
which is its chief attribute.
While the majority of coats are cut
on semi-htting lines, there is no sug-
gestion of looseness in the new models.
On the contrary every good line of the
figure is brought out by perfect fitting
without exactly defining it. Some mod
els have a peculiar bias cut under the
arms which tends to narrow the figure
perceptibly at the hip line. This and
other tricks of cut will make many new
friends for the tailormade suit this sea-
| son.
Sleeves are still of the regular coat
model, with a turnback or applied cuff
with and without groups of buttons or
namenting the back seam.
Skirts Show a Change.
Skirts are a matter of individual
choice, so long as they complete the
straight, narrow silhouette of the figure
prescribed by Dame Fashion. One may
take the banded skirt as Paris calls it
the cuff skirt one designer designates il
which is the high style note in skirts
for Fall, the new narrow gored or the
pleated model. These last two because
of their conservative shaping will doubt,
! less prove the more universal
A word anent the banded skirt ~
to yards is the accepted width of the
French model. Put the average Amer.
can woman in skirt of this width anc
she looks ridiculous. We cannot TAX,
this French skirt without adaptingi it. 1
must be widened proportionately TO on
figures. Mademoiselle is petite. Hel
figure is round and compact, her hip:
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

simple little dresses Of serge and fine
worsteds in stripes and checks, as an
auto or travelling wrap, is built of
a natty mixture-a Scotch mixture in
brown and white with trimmings of
velvet. Designers have taxed their
ingenuity in the matter of trimmings
Very frequently the coat material cut
on another way of the goods forms
the trimming scheme. Such trimming
is applied plain or outlined with a pip
ing of velvet. The one detail manu-
facturers seem to universally agree
upon is the collar. No matter what
its formation, its width or it's length,
it is so moulded that stormy weather
will see it buttoned snugly about the
wearer's throat
Though the brown mixtures rank
as first favorites one may choose from
black and white and green and white
the same models made in the brown
toning. Large buttons are a feature
of all these garments. So also are
the pockets. Some are set in with
flaps of contrasting material or color,
others are of the patch" variety,
quite long and set somewhat nearer
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02
Fall and Winter Tailor Styles for 19lO-19l1

small. She has youth in every line and
curve, therefore the two-yard skirt. But
the typical American woman must adapt
this new style. The American is larger
of frame, athletic, the product of our
sane and healthful out-of-door life.
With her greater height and hip meas
ures she must increase the skirt width
proportionately.
Very clever types of the banded-in
skirt are brought out by American de-
signers; pleated models have wide bands
halfway between knee and hem; foot
bands slightly circular, the spring of the
circular band being more becoming to
the American figure than is the straight
narrow band. There is also a straight
band with inverted pleats at side and
back, which is very good.
Skirts are of course short, anywhere
from two to three inches from the
ground. Here again we have an Ameri-
can fashion adopted by our friend, the
Parisenne. The French woman was
welded to trailing skirts, but the last
few seasons she has taken up our Amer
lean fashion of short skirts, and even
wears them more emphatically short
than we do ourselves. Furthermore, she
wears the short skirt for dressy COS
tunes, as we'll as for the street, but that
is another story.
Fabrics and Their Colors.
Dark blue serge in narrow and wide
vale, basket weaves and cheviots come
first in the list of materials. Black will
have its following, but blue, particularly
dark, rich black-blue will be the popu-
lar favorite, with browns and dark
greens as second choice. Innings will
be plain or striped or Persian, printed
foulards be relegated to the past Sum
mer.
Novel bone and wood buttons will di-
vide favor with some new and unique
buttons of composition in various colors
odd in shape, and sometimes set in meta
rims. A smart touch of red or emerald
green on blue suits will find repeat ir
the buttons and the lining.
Manyish mixtures, browns, grays and
greenisn grays are classed as the sea,
sons novelties These homespuns anc
Scotch worsteds straight from the hand
looms of the Land of lads and lassies,
are however finding their greatest use
in smart top coat, the story of which
you will find elsewhere on these pages
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

Another season is upon us, and won-
anlSind the world over Is asking herself
the old, old question, what are to be
the styles this Fall" And particularly,
what is to be the style in the tailored
suit ?" as 1t a three or two-piece cos
tuner What kind, of a skirt will we
have? Is the coat to be long or short,
belted or loose fitting, and most impor-
tant of all is it to be real tailormade,
or a coat and skirt too far removed in
point of cut and trimming from the
simple man-tailored coat suit to be
classed as a tailormade?"
These and like queries are agitating
feminine minds at the moment. And
we'll may they. For the tailormade is
the piece de resistance" of every wom-
ans wardrobe and the garment that de-
serves her first and best attention.
Long before any of us had thought
of the Fall, and even before many of
our Summer wardrobes had reached
the stage of completion, designers had
come 70 definite understanding on the
subject of Fall, 1910, suits with this
result. The tailormade this season is
TO be a tailormads, that is the strictly
man tailored coat suit smartly and sim
ply cut and beautifully made.
We are to be emancipated from the
fancy coat suit which invaded the fash
ion world last Spring and allowed to
return TO the simple effects. So strongly
has the tailormade costume established
itself in the regard of the American
woman, and the American man as well,
be il noted, that it is now considered as
q national street costume in this coun-
try. Even Paris has taken up the plain
tailormade for street wear, and OF
course London can always be counted
on for approval of an idea which OUT
English cousins really originated.
A simple, smart tailor coat suit, cor
rect millinery and accessories, and mi
lady fares forth with the utmost conf
dence that she is httingly CARRIED fol-
any occasion of the morning or after
noon.
The general suit outlines of the Fall
and Winter are these; Slender sllhou,
cite, hipless effect; coat slightly fitted
coat length 80 to "a inches, with occa-
sionally a 36-the suitable length de-
pending on the hight and general builc
of the woman; skirts short, clearing the
ground ? to 4 inches, this again de
pending on the figure and age OF the
wearer skirts narrow, either quite
bLTAigIh WITH uIudu DOA peat III udNf
or front or both, or in some of thu
many new banded-in effects described
below material, fancy mixtures anC
plain dark colors in serge and chevio
weaves, very little trimming and tina
of the simplest nature.
The Question of Coats.
The main and most striking featur-
of the new seasons coats is their sim
plieity-simplicity Of outline or silhou
ette-whieh is the later and more ap
propriate fashion term. There is sim
piicity in the trimming scheme also, i
indeed any trimming be used Wher
trimmings appear they take the form o
buttons cleverly and judiciously used
alone and in company with small braids
preferably soutache. Wide plain braid
are simple and smart, Tiny meta
or fabric covered buttons, scaTcel
larger than the proyerbial pea, in group
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

the back this year in an effort to aid
in narrowing the hip line.
The Coat Silhouette.
Right here let it be remarked that
the new coats, like the new dresses,
do not fare. They describe the straight
silhouette, which is fashions dictum
this fall. One of these models is
styled the polo coat. 1t is plain to
the point of severity, of soft, warm
fabrics, with deep patch" pockets and
big pearl buttons for trimming. Then
there is the rug coat. Have you seen
itl To see it is to want it. It's such a
novelty, but withal so smart, and
make ones figure look so youthful
that its success cannot be doubted. It's
material is two faced. plain and plaid
steamer rug, the plaid on the inside of
the garment proper and on the outside
in the collar, cuffs and pockets. II
hangs perfectly straight and close to
the figure with the fringe at the bot
tom, and fastens with low rolling revers
below the bust line with four large wood
buttons. Blue rugs with red, white and
blue plaid back; gray with gray and
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

white, and brown with brown and white
plaid are the three choice combinations,
though it must be confessed, the blue is
by far the most attractive.
This Seasons Black Garment.
Some very good black coats in MORE,
heavy soft satin and bengaline weaves
are seen, these for early wear, and black
broadcloths and rough weaves for later
on. Black is the fashion this year, nance
these black coats are doubly important.
Black is always practical, since it may
be worn to advantage with a dress of
any color, and can, If a suitable model
be chosen, be made to serve as a semi
dressy as we'll as a street coat.
One unusually handsome wrap of this
character shows the three-q
sleeves cut in one with thu coat body.
The coat is somewhat shorter in the
front, curving up from the skirt hem in
the back to the knee where the last
button of four between this point and
the bust line fastens the rment 1t
is lined throughout with old blue satin,
and the wide roll collar and high cuffs
are of the same.
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

The vogue of the dress-"the little
dress" as the smart dressmaker rather
endearingly terms it, is directly re-
sponsible for the popularity of the
separate coat,
Last winter in Paris every woman
wore one of these little dresses" and
a handsome coat of velvet or seal, inn
itation seal or muskrat, if we term
1t correctly, trimmed with skunk
bands and heavy cord ornaments and
buttons. This with the dress Of vel
vet constituted the highstyle Paris
ienne costume of 1902 High style in
Paris one season means high style in
America the next. Accordingly we
may expect to see much of this class
of costuming this winter. Manufac-
turers of separate coats have gone
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

the point OF looks as we'll as wearing
qualities.
Coats for Real Service.
We Americans are practical people
and we like practical clothes. In this
day and age woman is an important
factor in the business affairs of our
country, and it behooves the designers
of women's clothes to consider her to
no small degree. Then there are her
more fortunate sisters who though in.
clined to the frivolties of life demand
practical clothes for travelling, auto,
MODELLING and like occasions.
The Overwhelmingly known as
the ulster in days gone by-is a de.
cidedly chic affair this season. 1t is
designed for good, practical service
of course, but it's practicability has ir
no wise interfered with its smartnesss
1t is beautifully and sometimes smart.
ly cut, and its perfection of tailoring
is the hall mark of good style.
Scotch Mixtures the Favored Ma
terials.
The ultra smart top coat which will
do duty as a street garment ovel
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02
A Separate Coat Season Ahead Of Us

in heavily on pile fabrics, velvets and
pushes making them up into attract
i've garments sufficiently moderate in
price to please the vast majority of
buyers. The most appealing virtue
of such garments is their adaptability
for both day and evening wear. This
fact alone will give them great popu-
larity.
Coats.
Many mediocre limitations of seal
will be forced upon us with clever ar
guments on their quality and durabil-
ity. Beware. fair readerl Nothing
so cheap and taudry as a cheap imi-
tation. Unless one can afford the ex-
penditure of fair sum of money the
velvet garment is far the wiser choice,
and infinitely more satisfactory from
Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1910-10-02

the point OF looks as we'll as wearing
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
MRS. POTTER PALMER
RAPS HOBBIE SKIRTS

Chicago.-"The hooDle skirt is aw-
full. but the customs inspection law
is an outrage and curse on the wo-
men of this country"
Mrs. Potter Palmer delivered her
self of these two comments when she
reached Chicago the other day. Mrs.
Palmer was one of the many passen-
gers of the Mauretania who were
forced to stand on the New York
dock at go in the morning while the
customs inspectors searched all cab
ns for smuggled goods. She roundly
denounced the law, but not the men
enforcing 1t.
"In spite of this outrage" she de-
clared, "the men stand idly by and
watch their wives, or mothers, or
daughters subjected to the outrages
of the legal mandate and never raise
hand to have it stopped. 1t is a per-
secution against every traveller, par
ticularly against the people Of mod
crate circumstances and I insist, par
ticularly a persecution of women"
Mrs. Palmer said that dressmakers
in New York were particularly re-
sponsible for such actions, as they de-
manded protection against smugglers
although the great share of the cloth
smuggling is done by some Of their
number.
1.-THE hObble skirt-why it is alb
surd. Do you know the modistes in
Paris are commencing to realize that
the skirt is impossible and are trying
to blame its origin to American de-
signers. 1t is purely a French crea-
ton though; know the designer, but
he does not deserve the advertise
ment he would get II gave his name.
The hobble skirt is awful and I'm sure
IT will never be taken seriously. l
think the fad of wearing It will soon
die out Let us hope so. at any rate"
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
LITTLE CHANCE TO
FISH IN ROGUE RIVER

Marshfield, Drudge Hamilton in
the Curry county circuit court has
granted permanent injunction
against the Union Fisheries company
restraining the company from fish
ing in the waters OF the Rogue river.
The injunction was asked for by the
estate of the late r. d. Hume. Ac-
cording to the order of the court the
company cannot trespass on the
Hume land, which extends for about
12 miles from the bar on both sides
of the river. and cannot anchor in the
waters. The fishing is next to i'm
possible il the boats cannot stop The
Union company has been stopping on
an island which was formed at the
mouth of the river, but according
to the order OF the court there is lit
tie chance for any fish to be takeneout
of the river excepting by the Hume
estate. r. d. Hume, when he was
alive, maintained control of the waters
ot the Rogue river for many years.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
Japs Fear White Peril.

Portland, Ore.-"More than the
Americans fear the yellow peril the
japanese fear the white peril" said
Bishop Y. Honda or the Japanese
Methodist church. while in Portland
Wednesday. The japanese fear that
the white race small IN numbers, but
dominant in desire to rule, plans
usurpation of territory in Japan and
China" said Bishop Honda.
Besides being head of the Japan
ese Methodist church with a district
1000 miles long, and with headquar-
ters in Aoyama and Toxic, Bishop
Honda is a close student of oriental
affairs.
China" he said, "is on the verge
of revolution. There are 400,000,0 600
people there. it is true, but they are
not united and they never will be
They are under the unfriendly Nun
chu dynasty. Only the interferences
of the powers has prevented an upris-
ing long before. At the same time
it is like one province fighting against
another. They are like different ma
tons"
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
POPE PUTS BAN ON HOBBLE
SKIRTS AND BATHING TIGHTS

Paris.-The Catholic priests of Mi
Ian, Turin and Venice are making
scathing attacks on the prevailing
street and beach costumes of the wo-
men of Italy and Paris, following the
denunciation of the fashions by Pope
Plus y, and the pulpit of France
Is about to take up the crusade. In
fact, in several of the smaller parishes
around Ostend, where the bathing
tights are much in vogue among the
women, pastoral letters have been de-
livered asking that disfavor be cast
upon such scanty, even If attractive,
attire on the part of the fair sex.
The hobble skirt, which has reach
ed the extreme of oddity in Paris, Is
one of the particular objects of His
Holiness disapproval, and he has so
expressed himself in communication
to all the bishops.
OF course the Holy Father has never
seen any Of these scandalous cos
tunes, as propriety demands that
women. when granted an audience,
shall be attired in anly the plainest
and most somber of clothes
The effect of the holy edict is said
to be seriously felt already by some
OF the fashionable dressmakers of
Paris and a serious financial crisis
is facing several of the bigger exclus-
i've costuming establishments.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
At the Pastime.

THE House With Closed Shutters.
Biograph, drama. A thrilling COM
mentary upon the difference between
cowardice and bravery. A dramatic
recital of circumstances which seem
to make direct appeal. 1t is natur-
al to loathe a coward. 1t Is quite as
natural to love bravery, and the two
are forcibly contrasted in this picture.
The actions of the cowardly son, the
heroism Of the young girl and the
consistency Of her lover all combined
with careful acting makes this the
biggest feature film Of the week
'"The Wooing OFT" Vitagraph,
comedy. Another fascinating light
comedy. How a pair of old lovers
learned to court from the example of
the boys and girls.
"Caglistro." Pathe, drama. A dra-
matte adaptation from Alex Dumas
we'll known work, "The Memoirs of a
Physician"
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
Mayor Bars Fight Films.

Palouse, Wash.-Interested parties
are here TO close negotiations for put
ting the Johnson-Jeffries moving pic
lures on at the Lyric theater here.
The proprietors applied to Mayor
Lamphere for his consent. who in
formed them that he was unalterably
opposed TO the exhibition of the pic
lures. believing they would have de-
moralizing effect, especially upon the
young. and that he would invoke all
available power to prevent their ex-
hibition.
1t appears that since Spokane is
closed against the display of these
pictures the owners of the concession
are making efforts to interest the
show people in the smaller towns, and
although under ordinary circumstan-
ces the charge for their use is prohib-
tive, they are made to believe that
will be such a drawing card that peo-
pie will flock in from all nearby plac-
es and make money for the proprie-
tors who put them on.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02

The old-fashioned round garter was,
or were, garters. you know, because
there were two of them. But the new
hobble garter is merely garter, and
is singular, instead of plural, because
the two garters are hitched together,
and that makes only one. Purple is
the newest color tone out, and the
new puppies run all the way from
the pale heliotrope to the eggplant
shade Fashion followers are making
up some of the dearest cutest little
hobbies you ever dreamed of, and they
are lilac with pastel bows! What col
or are yours going to be?-Portland
Telegram.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
YOUNG MAN NOT HAPPY
UNLESS AT HARD WORK

Manchester. n. H.-F J. Vreeden-
burg marine recruit, who fell heir to
SIS 900 and purchased his discharge
a month ago. has reennsted at the
local recruiting station and will be
transferred 20 marine barracks, Mare
Island. Cal
He declares that he intends to re-
main in the marine corps until he Is
retired on a pension, as he likes the
life. which keeps him free from temp
tations that usually beset the young
man who suddenly acquires a for
tune.
A month after his first enlistment
he inherited a fortune through the
death Of his father. He bought his
way out of the service to enjoy his
fortune. which consisted of real prop
erty near San Diego. One month Of
idleness sufficed.,
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
NEW "HOBBLE" GARTER
CONTROLS THE GAIT

Ahem, Have you seen the hobble
garter? Object, you know. Is to reg
ulate the gait, so the strain won't be
too great on the sometimes fragile
hObble skirt. The hobble garter made
its appearance in the display window
OF a local department store a couple
OF days ago, and were the passersby
Interested? Dear me, no, not a Bit
They just walked right on by and
never paid any attention at all, only
big policeman had TO go and swarm
up TO the place crude thing and clear
the crowds off the sidewalk.
The hobble garter is Just like any
other garter, except that 1t has a
hobble strap, just 1s inches long
and it won't stretch-much! That
strap does the business-dear me, yes
no danger whatever Of taking too
long a stride and ripping a seam in
your new hobble skirt, not a bit!
But say girls, there Is Just one
DANGER You know how a little rub
ber band stings when II breaks and
flies back and hits your finger
stings something Dreadful Well,
you know the hobble strap that holds
the hobble garter together, It is Of
elastic, too. all covered over, Of
course with shirred silk ribbon-just
the sweetest shade ever. Of robbins
egg blue, too. But don't you know
5upposing you should go to step on a
high car step, or something like that
ia your new hobble skirt, and wear
ing your new hobble garter; then sup
posing. you know. that you forgot
and took the step a little too vigor-
ously, and suppose the hobble-strap
should break-ouch.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1910-09-02
At THE PICTURE SHOWS
The OrDheum.

l. Daisies. DR.. vitagraph, 1000
feet long. Another good college love
story.
2. An Unexpected Reward Drama.
Edison, 1000 feet long. The girl has
two lovers, one of which is much
braver than the other. He not only
saves her life but RECEIVERS from the
water bracelet which she lost. For
this he receives not the reward that
was advertised, but another much
more satisfactory.
3. Bumptious AS An Aviator. Com
edy. Edison. Our stout friend gets
ambitious and wants to be quite up
to date by building his own air-ship.
He does so and he flies too-but how
A scream from start to finish.
4. The Rival Serenaders. Comedy,
Urban, 1000 feet long.
5. Paris, Viewed from the Eiffel
Tower. Scenic, Urban.
Song-Some Day Gabriel