The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1910-06-16
NEW YORK LETTER.
Frills and Latest Furbel0ws In the
Realm of Fashion,

that might be worn with any cos
tune has gone out of fashion. Each
frock intended for outdoor wear calls
for its own coat or wrap,and even the
sheer summer muslins, the elaborate
afternoon frocks and the evening
frocks are accompanied by cores
pondng coats and accessories If they
come from the establishment of a
prominent designer. The long, all
covering coats of silk, tweed, serge,
etc, designed primarily for motor
wear but often used for trotting pur-
poses, are almost the only offerings
be found in the shops.
Tailors make up coat and skirt
models which are worn with blouses
to match, or froclt and coat model for
ordinary street wear There are
quantities of silk coats, satin taffeta,
MORE, corded silk, crepe, messaline.
etc. but they are made en- suite with
frocks and are seldom adaptable to
other costumes. In Paris these silk
coats. often of vivid blue. are almost
Invariably very short and prone 20
piquant, old fashioned lines. Even
the Eaton is once more in evidence.
and along with it come quaint little
hasqued affairs, loose. frilly short
Jackets. Russian coates with belts
and with peplum reaching only to the
hip line, picturesque Directoire mod
els with big soft revers, shoulder
capes, etc. funny little dolmanlike
wraps which have capes over the
shoulders and scarflike draped fronts
crossing surplice fashion.
There is no end to these short coats
and wraps and each is more chic than
the last, though you need time to ac
custom yourself to their abbreviation.
Whether they are SO generally becom-
ing as the longer coats and cloaks is
question of taste 1t is true, they
consort with the short skirt which is
predominant in Paris, but the long
flowing lines are kinder to the aver
age figure.
1t is a well recognized fact that
American women. as a rule, are far
more conservative than their sisters
in France. The importers know this
and they usually order the original
models modified to suit American
taste before bringing them over here
However, not all of the costumes
produced by the famous designers In
Paris are bizarre. Many of the hand
soonest creations are devoid of any
sensational features and may be worn
by the most conservative women.
Long coats and cloaks for carriage
and evening wear are lovelier than
ever before. and the triumph of the
season is the filmy cloak of chiffon,
net or lace, usually without lining
other than another tone of chiffon.
The seasons yelling mania is reflected
in these diaphanous summer cleaks,
and here as in. the chic frocks eXquis-
lite color harmonies are obtained
through supervising one sheer layer
upon another of contrasting tone.
Sometimes, however, the cloak is of
one tone, the color contrast being left
to the frock worn under it. Sheer
black or white is often exquisite when
a colored frock CLOVIS softly through
its yelling folds, and the same is true
of some of the neutral tones such as
the popular pinkish beige, sand color
and the grays.
Sometimes a plain chiffon is laid
over Powered chiffon, and there are
beautiful models in shaded chiffon
unlned and finished with bordering
marabout. Graceful models of this
type but in plain one-tone chiffon and
of simply draped lines are offered at
very moderate prices.
All sorts of odd little shoulder
capes or wraps draped in chiffon,
lace, satin, etc, are being exploited
by the French designers. but usually
Ell suite with frocks. Oddly enough
Drectoire modes, supposed to have
vanished. are reasserting themselves
not only in millinery but in coat and
frock details Directoire coats with
revers, shoulder capes and waist line
shortened in the back if not all
around are numerous in Paris, and
the short wasted frock has never
been really out of fashion for evening
and house wear.
Nine out of ten frock models i'm
ported from Paris have kimona
sleeves. Often the blouse is of the
simplest sort, plain over the chest,
shoulders and arms, very slightly
fulled into the waist band or girdle.
trimmed only around the neck and
sleeves and relieved by thin guimpe
and undersleeves. Where the blouse
is of chiffon or other sheer stuff.
there is usually fiat trimming upon
the foundation. showing vaguely
through the yelling. or scarf dra-
perry of vivid color under the chiffon
Sometimes there is not even this
yelled trimming and the model
achieves distinction In the simplest
fashion by the beauty and harmony