The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1910-06-11
THE FAMOUS
CHANTICLEERl
Is Having a Wide Vogue among
American Women What M.
Rostand is Responsible for

little to the left, is a fiat bow OF burnt
orange velvet ribbon.
In the upper right-hand corner Is
one of the modified Gainsborougns.
IT differs In that the crown Is more
dome shaped and the brim turns UP
more over the face than at the side.
1t is made of mauve-colored Neapoli-
tan braid with a tangle OF purple ana
white clematis with leaves and ten
dri'5 ebout the crown. -.
Many Of us will welcome the straw
tooue that is always In good form with
almost any style Of costume. One
shown in very exclusive shop Is OF
gray horsehair with two rich mouse
gray plumes that are almost green IN
the shadows. They are fastened TO
the crown with cabachon OF pearls
and cerise velvet, which Is twisted
about the crown.
The bicorne greatly resembles the
Chanticleer, which is the latest sensa-
tion from Paris.
The one in the illustration is about
the largest adaptation OF the Napoleon
that has been offered. 1t is OF black
velvet and trimmed with tall, glossy,
black brush aigrette. In the back the
brim rolls nearly to the crown and Is
slightly pointed in the centre, where, /,
in the front, the point is cut out, max J
| ing a triangular opening in the brim, I
which shows the crown. This iS
great Improvement, as an abruptly
turned-up surface Is very trying toi
some faces, and the crown showing
beyond the brim gives perspective, as
it were.
The Chanticleer differs from this In
| that 1t is trifle shorter from ear to
ear, and the back and front OF the
brim roll up over the crown till they
nearly meet all the way, thus making
a very narrow, almost straight hat ,
with not the slightest suggestion OF
a corner or a triangle. Instead OF the
aigrette, a tall cockade, very much
like the tailfeathers Of the lordly cock,
wave defantly to the winds.
The hat to the left Is one Of the
sunshade variety and very picturesque
for country or seashore wear. 1t Is
1 made of net black or lace, shirred onto
wire frame with transparent rim:
of horsehair of soft, light-blue tonA
that does exquisite things to the corrs
plexion. About the crown Is a tanglo
of small flowers, blue hyacinths, lilies
of the valley and smilax leaves AMI
tendrils. The distinguishing feature
lies in the black velvet ribbon TINT
passes over the crown, hanging on tslo
brim in long streamers.
New this summer is the less of
turning up the hat directly In front,
Most faces require the soft unduis-
tion of wide supple brim as bacs-
ground, however. For those who cer
wear severe hat, the one illustrated
is very modish. 1t is made Of glossy
golden-brown Neapolitan braid, the
front being held to the crown by q
band of tobacco-brown velvet ribbon.
This forms a background for the three
large yellow poinsettias and lilies OF
thevalley that are placed with studied
carelessness about the crown.
The tricorne in the lower left-hand
corner shows the universally becom-
ing type of Napoleon. 1t is a model
that can be worn the year around
with almost any costume. It is OF
ueep, bed-sTeeH IHpuc, ldctu with
black satin, and has poised at the
back, little to the left, three beauti-
full glossy plumes of deep, gray
green shade, with black ribs. The
I placing of the plumes is excellent, but
while 1t looks very simple, really re-
, quires masterhand to adjust. A
soft drape of greenish-gray tulle fills
: in the space between the dome-shaped
{ crown and the brim.
Another type belonging to the same
class is depicted in the lower right
: hand corner, and, for women who can
wear unique clothes, this is very stun
: ming in its masterful severity. The
v tip is Of white ottoman silk, the Wide
t Haunting brim being faced In black
5 velvet. The brim in front lies qutts
Y fiat and narrow above the face, gredL-
] ally rolling upward, on the right side,
i whore 1t Is held near the crown by .
cabachon OF black carved jet frcm
i which escapes long drape OF carved
jet beads connecting 1t with the ca
I bachon that fastens the brim 70 the
q crown in the back.