davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16

blouse being mounted over a white ba-
tste foundation. On the yoke and cuffs
Is a band Of black velvet to complete
the one-piece effect. The chemisette
and sleeves aresof lace or figured net,
the small round buttons of silver.
Next to her stands model in blouse
made for dark blue serge suit This
serge forms half OF the blouse, the rest
being of dark blue chiffon, with buttons,
as usual. holding the two parts together
On the sleeves and under the yoke the
chiffon is hemstitched, and there is a
double oversleeve. new touch in a
blouse of this kind Is to have cuffs and
collar of plain chiffon piped with satin.
The model with the muff wears a
blouse of not only the same color, but
the same fabric as her suit: corbeau
blue satin finished cloth. so supple that
1t can easily be draped on the bodice.
The deep bodice top and the sleeves are
Of silk wolfe in the same shade. The
same idea can be carried out in silk or
satin for heavy cloth or ratine suit.
The last model is for wear with a
black suit again; it is a chiffon blouse
over bright china blue or blue natter
The lace on the front pleats is applied
to the blue underblouSe and the chiffon
yelled over 1t. The buttons are fat
pearl ones, about the size of a dime.
Wolfe de sole and net share with chif-
fon the favored places in fabrics for
these blouses, and the combination or
black and nattier blue is another IA
vorite.
In remodeling an old cloth gown; IT is
well to consider this separate blouse.
taking the fullness from the skirt and
usingi it as trimming on the blouse. Thus
with two yards of chiffon OF the same
color and a few odd buttons the now
blouse would be complets. q
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Fashion Notes
From Paris
PARIS, Oct. 6.


T oNG velvet coats are to be used
this winter. They are just as Ell
IL fective as the long fur cloaks or
last year and less expensive-a fact
that should be thankfully received by
women on both sides Of the water.
Very supple velvet is used, giving soft.
rich folds and varying from one-toned
effects and iridescent patterns TO cash.
mere designs. Skunk fur is favored for
edging the skirt. sleeves and collar. This
latter, by the way, is not so long and
rolling as last year. You can depend
upon certain slight changes IN cut, for,
as one emphatic Frenchman exclaimed.
what is fashion for, madame?'
Large muffs to match these full-length
coats are trimmed with ribbon velvet.
and are frequently combinations of silk.
velvet and fur. An artificial rose is
attached TO q fur muff. but it must be
exquisite IN texture and coloring.
sashes and girdles Of all kinds are
seen on dresses and suits. Fringe is
used to edge them. And right here let
the emphatic favor in which fringe is
held be sounded. 1t is Of any depth and
OF any material and is used on every
conceivable garment.
The high-crowned turbans are still
shown IN the morning. Marie Noyal,
Georgette, Dalnys and Clerice are ex-
plotting these. A chic model shown the
other day was OF supple felt with a
scarf and cocarde Of tapestry at one
side. Generally speaking. the effect is
simple and quite different from the
elaborate evening chapeaux.
These latter are large, low-crowned
velvet or satin beavers, trimmed with
, plumes. laces or aigrettes.
Silver and steel tissues are used for
trimming many large felt hats. Silver
and steel beaded fabrics will be the
principal fabrics for the gathered tunics
over satin for evening.
Blue OF the ravens wing, or 'cor-
beau" as we call it. over white is a
combination much used by Paquin and
Drecoll. Old-gold satin veiled with
nousseline in "renge ancien"-a red al
most ike e~en v;olet-is another color
scheme thai is new and wonderfully
beautiful ELOISE
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Bathrobes

TT is getting cold enough now to
think OF the new bathrobe that
- serves many women in place OF q
kimoao in winter.
Blanket material is. OF course. ia
vorite; it is cut perfectly plain, without
trimming, and is fastened with heavy
cord and tassel at the waist. Gray, blue
and garnet with white or black are
popular shades.
Ripple eiderdown is another staple
material, sometimes trimmed with SOU
tachs braid or with applique designs in
broadcloth.
Turkish toweling In extra thicknesses
ts seen in the brighter coiors. and fleece
Down and hannelette ere not unknown.
Many OF these are faced or piped with
bands OF satin IN contrasting colors
which give them a smartness they
would otherwise lack.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Millinery Hints
"HE Paris milliners tell US:
That velvet poinsettias viii

III
That velvet poinsettias win be
- a popular flower on winter hats.
That the newest roses have their
petals outlined with tiny beads.
That many OF the new willow pIunes
will be shaded like rainbows.
That velvet and lace make a modish
combination.
That laces Of gold and silver are
very popular. and that silver and gold
soutache braids are used on net to good
advantage
That ribbons embroidered and en-
bossea in gold and other metals are
quite the fad
That tinsel ribbons with black velvet
stripes are also fashionable.
That Pocahontas bands Of feathers,
which stand up around the hat like a
feather fence, are the smart thing
That some OF the turbans are made
entirely of feathers. their only trim
ming being a bow Of ribbon or a wav-
ing tail feather.
That pretty hats are made OF black
beaver initiating broadtaii In dts texture.
That mobcap of black velvet with a
frill of white valenciennes is quite the
chic hat for the girl with pretty face.
That the modified Cossack turban.
which completely covers the hair and
comes down well on the back OF the
neck. Is becoming to the younger set.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
The Wedding Veil

time 70 time attempts are made
II TO Danish or supersede the we'd
- ding veil; but, In spite OF all OBJ
1ectsona. Il still persists In the favor of
the bride. who is apt 20 be sentimental
rather than reasonable. The way or
wearing it, however. has been largely
changed; many brides now wear the veil
as a sort OF cap. not falling over the
tAce at al, but fastened back with
cdrclet OF flowers. In front Il reaches
only 10 the knees, but IN back TO well
below the ankles.
Tulle. except for those who have rare
and beautiful old lace, is succeeding
lace in favor; perhaps because there is
no danger Of having part of the design
ornament ones nose or eyel A soft
tulle veil, properly draped. fastened by
invisible pearl-headed pins and fall
TAG over q coronet OF jewels or Of bios
SONS, Is as pretty q sight as any we'd
ding guest could hope % see.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
rF YOU are economical. you shaVid
shower praises upon the latest Paris

shower praises upon the latest Paris
Il fashion.
For It is nothing more nor less
than the wearing with tailored suit
of a blouse exactly matching that suit
IN colors and often trimmed with the
same fabric, especially IL the suit
material be velvet. This gives the effect
of a one-piece dress, and yet the suit
is ready for all occasions.
These blouses are all being made with
the long shoulder line, with three-quar-
ter sleeves, with high collars Che collar
less day has gone, alasD and with tiny
chemisettes and undersleeves of lace.
The latter may be of the color OF the
blouse or it may be white-whichever
is more becoming. A frequent trim
ming is rows of small buttons. some
times not so large as shoe buttons.
Let us see how these tendencies mani
fest themselves in the five blouseS
shown here.
The maiden to the left with reticule
wears a chiffon and velvet blouse Of the
new gray brown. ''patou,'' to go with
velvet suit. The chiffon is gathered
over the velvet bib, which is fastened by
imitation tortoise-shell buttons with SOU
tache loops. These buttons match the
shell ones of the coat.
The lady to the left of the two at the
tea table is in blouse which is also de-
signed for wear with a velvet Suit-but
a black one this time. 1t is of black
chiffon over natter blue, the whole
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Uses of Velvet

W ELvET is used in this seasons
" modes in ways that would have
been called odd a few years ago.
Even white lingerie dresses nave bor-
ders Of velvet. applied like deep hens.
and the velvet is used for revers on the
gowns.
Another striking combination is to
use velvet with the English eyelet en-
broidery on white linen or cambric-
This embroidery is sometimes made up
over black silk and bordered with black
velvet. Sometimes the velvet is the
foundation and the embroidery is used
as a sort OF tunic.
While black just now IS the most pop
ular. the colored velvets seem to be
rapidly gaining favor with the fash
icnable. and they. too. have their share
In the sudden popularity OF the fabric.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Leather Collar Sets

EATHER collar and cuff sets ON
tailor-made suits are. OF course,
not very new: but they are being
revived in the sudden return OF leather,
and are seen frequently in black patent
leather on tweed or covert suits OF
brown, blue and gray. Sometimes. too.
they are In white: one such was worn
with white serge coat. cut in empire
style and disclosing a very smart red
and-white striped waistcoat beneath
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
New Scarfs

A PRETTY example Of the fash
~ ionable scarf seen recently was or
- gray moire on one side and OF
MORE satin on the other. the end finish-
ed with little round bows Of ,sray and
mauve satin ending in a silk-covered
wooden bead
For those in half mourning comes an
other lovely scarf Of white ninon az
sole. with large chenille dots in black.
This is very stunning with a black-and-
white costume.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Fashion Jottings

|" HE genenal effect desired IL the fall
fashions is that of slimness, with
short and rather 4arrow skirts.
Suit coats are generally short; sepa-
rate coats long.
Evening dresses have round length
shapes; trains. when used, are narrow.
Draped effects are seen IN skirts for
wear on all sorts OF occasions.
Both short and long sleeves are
shown; the choice here is absolutely
free.
Large. low collars appear on both
dresses and coats. and for street or
dress wear.
The high waist line. several inches
above the normal. is now firmly estab-
Lshed.
The principal fabrics used are serge.
ratine. mems tailored sutings, striped
cloths. velveteeu, satin. molre. CHIFFON
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Chinese Ennbroid dery
WONnEREII1. achievement q

(( A WONDERFUL achievement OF
dazzling beauty" such us the
= cry of admiration of an Eng
lish writer on describing superb bed
spread in rich brocade embroidered in
the eighth century by Chinese prin-
cess. The device, she continues. con-
sisted of at least 5000 pairs of mandarin
ducks, sporting amid sprays Of rare
MOWERS and foliage, scattered all over
the silk ground. on which sparkled
shower of beads made of native precious
erer less taste, Imagination. skill and
1noustry than her American sisters OF
the twentieth century1
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Hat Flowers

HLOWERs on the new hats are no<t.
n ly Of silk or velvet. but some are
OF cambric. and yet others OF chif-
fon or ninon. with the material slightly
gathered into a corded edge. Leaves
are made OF cretonne, each leaf beinx
cut out separately from largs-nowersa
pattern.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Bordered Bows

r S WHAT one inilliner calls the Inn
mense bows worn on many of the
new hats, usually OF white oAt-
lined with black. The bows them
selves are frequently Of lace or net,
and are edged with narrow pipingsS Of
satin. Sometimes the satin forms a
lining which projects like border all
around the lace. Occasionally, white
edginE black Is seen also.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16

fur, satin-in every possible variety OF
style and use. Bandings. collars. re-
vers. buttons. etc.. are included among
these trimmings of velvet
With the craze for Paisley has como
the Paisley bead embroidery. which Is
really new and very beautiful. Beads
in the Paisley colors are worked into
the familiar designs and used on the
collars. lapels and turnback cuffs of
dark tailored SUITS They add touch
describable.
And. OF course, always and forever
this season-fur trimmings are In vogue.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
New Autumn Trimmings

N MONG the very latest in autumn
~ dress trimmings is the use of very
wide black braids in plain weaves
or in fancy radium patterns upon cloth
tailored suits. AS far as these cloth
suits are concerned. it is evidently to
be braid season.
On such materials as black or navy
blue velvet or chiffon, white rubber
bead embroideries are all the thing.
They are especially marked on these
trast of color.
Velvet trimmings are combined with
al sorts OF other fabrics chiffon. lace.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
and marquisette.

Fur coats are seen in both
long and pocket lengths, also
sets of fur-and-velvet and fur
and-chiffon.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16

Among the modish trim
minSs are broad black braids.
black velvet ribbon. oriental
embroidsries. fancy bead and Jewel
trimmings, spangled gold and silver
lace and metal embroideries.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16
Autumn Shoe Styles

~ GLARS. or bands around the top,
are the latest fancy. Sometimes
~ they are Of contrasting leather,
and they are two or three buttons deep.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16

Trimmings for dress shoes consist of
OF the vamp. and fancy buttons of
pearl, crystal and cut Jet
Tips are straight in cut, with a sim
gle dot in the center Perforated tips
are almost out Shield tips are also
seen.
Laced shoes are to be more in favor
than buttoned, especially for walking
otyle&
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16

Large. low collars appear on both
dresses and coats. and for street or
dress wear.
The San Francisco call., 1910-10-16

The high waist line. several inches
above the normal. is now firmly estab-
lished.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14
w n

President Taft discussed with mem,
berS of his cabinet the final details of
the special message he will send to
congress dealing with proposed amend
ments to the interstate commerce and
Sherman antitrust laws. Mr.. Taft be-
gan work on the important document
Thursday.
Prospects for remedial legislation
at this session of congress are not
entirely promising.
The state department is becoming
impatient at the manner in which the
Mexican government is delaying &C.
ton in the case Of James A. Cook, an
American citizen, who was arrested,
charged with completely in the rob.
Ding of trains.
Executive clemency has been exer.
cised in the case of Thomas West
moreland now undergoing life impri-
sonment following his conviction in
the circuit court, eastern district of
Texas, for murder committed in the
Indian territory in June 1898.
Representative Mcguire of Nebras.
ka announced that he has selected
George T. Liddell of Tecumseh as
principal to take the examination for
entrance to West Point, and Thomas
]. Doyle of Lincoln to take the exami-
nation for Annapolis.
The magnitude of the W systems
Of the largest cities is set forth in a
bulletin just issued by the census
bureau. Aggregating the seyers in
the 1877 largest cities of the United
States. their combined length would
be sufficient to girlle the earth at the
equator; or /. laid on the bottom of
the Atlantic would provide seven sub.
ways from New York to London.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14
MORE SCHOOL N
Bill Introduced Providing for Standing
Rock AGENCY,

Washington. Jan. G.-Cne hundred
sixty thousand acres of lane in the
Cheyenne and Standing Rock indian
reservation in North and South Dakota
representing school sections 16 and SO
are turned over to the above named
commonwealth by the Gamble bill
which VAS favorubly reported from the
scnate committee on ndian affairs to-
day.
The bill also carries an appropriation.
If $4lo,0oo to pay the Indians for the
land at the rate Of $3.50 per acre. An
effort was made to reduce the price
to $1.25 but this met with vigorous OPP
position at the interior department
which maintains that the lane is worth
anywhere from s. TO SO per acre.
$4,000 is aked to complete the Indian
allOtmentS.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14
TAFT WORKING Overtime
SPECIAL MESSAGE CAUSES HIM
SOME LITTLE GRIEF
The Antitrust Message Is Ready But
the Interstate Commerce Recon-
mendations Are Not

washington, Jan. 4.-Another change
In President Taft's programme of spe-
clal messages to mgr was an
nounced at the White House today 1t
was stated that the message on inter-
state inc law would probably
not go to until Monday or
Tuesday.
The antitrust message is still
scheduled for Thursday
On Friday. President Taft will send
to the senate a brief message trans
hitting all of the papers and the re-
port or the attorney general concern
ing the CLAWS charges against Secre-
'arN ballllSer. These paperS were
called for by a scnatc resolution. The
president had intended yesterday af-
ternoon to send his special message
on interstate law changes
to congress on Friday. 1t was said
today that he desired to consult fur
ther with members of the interstate
committee of the senate and
house.
In q special message President Taft
will send to congress next week a loan
or $4,000 to complete the existing
irrigation projects will be suggested.
1t was stated today that verbal
changes agreed to in a conference with
a number of railroad presidents yes
terdaN would require the rcprinting of
both messages and the Wickesham
bill. e~nmbodying the presidents views
His bill is to be placed at the disposal
OF the congressional committees if
they desire it. The special message on
conservation of natural
which the president a hoped to get
ready by Monday next has been post
poned until the latter part of next
week.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14
NO PEACE FOR NICARAGUA,
Neither Side Is Making Any Effort
to End the War.

Washington. Jan. 4.-Apparcntly
neither President Madriz nor General
Estrada are making any effort in the
interest of peace in Nicaragua. A
telegram from United States Consul
Cladcra received this morning says
that military activity continues at
Managua.
Unofficial adVices indicate that Es.
trada is putting his army in readiness
Tor an early move on the capital and
that Madriz is Fastening an army
eastward to meet tIstrada's advancing
forces.
a conflict therefore may be expect
ed before Estrada's army has reach
ed the n~eighborhOOd of Managua.
Details as to strength and prepared
ness of either army are unknown, and
what will be the issue of the con-
1lict can only he guessed.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14
McCumber's Prohibition Bill.

Washington, Jan. 4.-AccOrding to
Senator McCumber it will not be long
before the senate will pass his bill to
prevent the sale of Intoxicating liquors
IN buildings, ships. navy yards and
parks and other premises owned or
used by the United States govern
nlent. The bill already has received
favorable action at the hands Of the
senate committee on education and
labor. and nj now on the calendar
awaiting the action of the u per house.
a violation of the proposed statute
viii mean punishment by a fine of not
less tina 500 nor more than $500.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14

PUT INTO NJ
PARAGRAPH
5 Washington, Congressional, PoIiti' 8
) cal and Other Events Briefly Told 8
Foreign.

At Alexandria, Egypt, he customs
tobacco stores containing tobaccos to
the value of nearly 100000 was
Quilted by fire. Firemen. assisted by
200 sailors from the German cruiser
Freya. succeeded in saving the great
er part Of the tobacco. The loss is
estimated at 81. 900. 900.
Sir George Henry Lewis, the most
famous solicitor of the present genera
ton, who has been engaged in all the
greatest legal cases in the last half
Gentry, retired from practice with the
new year. Sir George Lewis knows
more of the social life of Great Britain
than any other man, and had been
called the Geeper Of English SOciety's
Skeletons.
Estrada's pledge for the disarma'
ment of Nicaragua does not disarm
the world of the suspicion that he
means to be its president.
A telephone message from Kabula
Miro states that the American eXpe-
dition camped on Monday night at
Katwe, eight miles beyond kabula
Miro. Colonel Roosevelt and the
others Of the party are we'll. The
hunters have covered %fifty-fOur miles
since leaving Kampla Unganda De-
cember %. The immediate objective
point is Kisingo, fifteen miles from
katwe.
The Chinese government formally
complained to Japan against the viola
ton Of the M%anchurian telegraph con-
vention of 1908. The complaint con-
sisted of two counts, which purpOrted
to show that the Japanese were
guilty of extending telegraph and tel
egraph lines and traffic in Manchuria.
The special committee of Copenha-
sen university which investigated DR..
Frederick A. Cooks polar records is
now considering whether or not it will
publish a second report, giving further
details of it's work. If the committee
should decide to do so, it will issue
the report about the middle OF
January.
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14
BOY TORTURED BY ECZEMA

When my boy was six years old, he
suffered terribly with eczema. He
could neither sit still nor lie quietly in
bed, for the itching was dreadful. He
would 1rritate spots by scratching
with his nails and that only made
them worse. A doctor treated him
and we tried almost everything, but
the eczema seemed to spread. 1t
started in a small place on the lower
extremities and spread for two years
until it very nearly covered the back
part of his leg to the knee.
FINALLY l got Cuticura Soap. Cuti.
cura Ointment and Cuticura Pills and
gave them according to directions. I
used them in the morning and that
evening, before l put my boy to bed,
l used them again and the improve.
prlsing, the inflammation seemed to
be SO much less. l used two boxes Of
Cutlcura Ointment, the same of the
Pills and the Soap and my boy was
cured. My son is now in his sew
enteenth year and he has never had
a return of the eczema.
Il took care of a friends child that
had eczema on its face and limbs and
l used the Cuticura Soap and Ointment.
They acted on the child just as they
did on my son and it has never re-
turned. l would recommend the Cuti-
cura Remedies to anyone. Mrs. A. J..
Cochran, 1923 Columbia Ave-, Phila-
delphia, Pa, Oct. 20, 1909"
The Ekalaka eagle. [volume] (Ekalaka, Mont.) 1909-1920, 1910-01-14
MANY ARE DEAD OR MISSING
BECAUSE OF RECENT SEVERE
BLIZZARD.
bLIzZARD SWEPT EAST
Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas and
Fart OF Mississippi Covered With
Snow-Coid Record Broken
In Missouri.

Winnipeg. Man. Jan. G.-The bliz-
1ard OF the last few days claimed
many victims, particularly along the
$500 me. Among those dead or miss
'h& Tor several days are:
Sh"rlf Whitehead, Weyburn.
Jos. Clark. Lang.
John Hillborn. Il homeSteader south
If Releau.
Lawrence Tremble. Estevan.
Andrew Coleman. employed in Oar
Win wood camp.
Glenn Bradley. employed in Darwin
wood camp.
Little boy fOund frozen to death il
l haystack south of Yellow Grass be-
Sld his two sisters. who were living
ana Whonl he kept warm n saved.
FlcAmond. Va. Jan. Ga sleet
storm is causing havoc here. The
streets, trees and buildings are shroud-
cu IN ice. The public schools are
closed, dozens of persons have fallen
ana several have suffered broken
llmhs. The stores refuse to deliver
goods. Many telephone and telegraph
wires are down and trolley wires
broken.
Kansas City. Jan. 6.-Eighteen de.
grees below zero was recorded unotfi-
clally IN Kansas today. the lowest
temperature in this part of the south
west in twelve years. Intense old
covered Missouri and reached into
Oklahoma. Arkansas n Texas.
st. Joseph. Mo-, Jan. ct was +
degrees below zero here at I o'clock
this morning, the coolest of the winter.
Much suffering of live stock is re-
ported. This is the coolest since 1899.