Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-10-22
MEMS AUTUMN FASHIONS
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES FURNISH
FEW NOVELTIES IN CLOTHES.
Some New Color Effects, But the
Same Old Forms-The Getaway
Sack-Long, Peaked Lapels.
From the HAherdaSher.

From the Haberdasher.
Almost needless to remark to an au-
dience Of haberdashers and clothiers. au-
tumn brings no radical change in mems
dress. With the recurrence Of every sea-
son We have made similar observation.
The habit now has become fixed. Need
we empha size. either, that change is the
life of trade in clothes? We think not.
The fact is universally recognized among
thinking men. In the domain Of women's
dress, fashion causes more buying than
wear; at least, that is the verdict of men
who should know. Nor is the plea for a
like condition in connection with mems at
tire. What then? Merely an evidence of
progress, or at least progression, along
any lines. whether it be art, utility or
convenience, or all three of them. The
creation Of what the trade commonly
calls freak fashions is not progress. In
this respect, we are in no danger Of fall
ing into the foremost fault Of women s
fashions. Rational standards must rule,
and will. The whole state Of modern man
requires it. Some talk OF a prospective
revival of frills and flounces. That cam
not be, if only for the reason that every
tendency for decade past has been
toward simplicity. and every indication
modify existing forms. I believe 1 asked
some months ago if there was any sane
reason for the continuance of a collar
such as. we have had, Joined to
small cut-out or notch appears be-
tween them in front. Absolutely none!
Is there any reason why we could not
have shawl collar on our garments for
a change. or. some other shape? Absolute
ly none! To be frank, fashion is now
principally a temporary vogue of different
colors and patterns and an occasional
variation in usage. Forms have not been
changing. There's the rub. Possibly the
absence of associations OF clotliers where
such things might be discussed, is respon-
sibIe. The need is at hand. and no one
manufa cturer set OF manufacturers is
willing to dare With q garment really new.
The originality Of designers seems to he
limited to INSTRUMENTATION changes
from season to season If they are more
serious than that We haven't seen them.
Let us end this tribute TO the clothing
designers Of the country to introduce a
coming mode. 1t Is different, decidedly,
and because Of the sameness and tame
ness OF the fashions of recent years it
will find opposition, for the simple reason
that the clothing conservatives greatly
outnumber the insurgents. The cutaway
sack coat is new only in the sense that 1t
has never been worn to any great extent
in this country. The cut and contour are
old. In brief. 1t is a cross between the
current lounge jacket ana the current cut
away Most men at first glance will say,
'.Impossible." They would say the same
for a shawl collar OH an overcoat, yet
that is coming, too 1t will be a struggle
to pull out of the rut.
Lines Of the Garment.
Consider the lines of the garment.
s.culptors have complained that mems
modern clothes are built on the barrel
principle. round and parallel lines mark
ing the hat, sleeves, body and trousers
legs That is very close to the truth. Here
we make a start with lines in the body
which alter the whole appearance of the
jacket The snugness of the waist and
fullness over the hips will be dubbed eff
feminate-merely because we have become
SO used to the barrel principle. But there
is no grace in straight lines. Here they
aro c,,r.-ad with a result rlea sing To the