The Norfolk weekly news-journal., 1910-12-09
The Wei Dressed Woman.

happy. Also are the milliners happy,
likewise the cloakmakers, shoemakers,
lingerie designers and "haberdashers
to women" for this is an age of spe.
cializing and one finds II in the world
Of dress as well as IN the realm of
commerce or finance.
The most discussed mode of the mo-
ment Is the new skirt, very serious
rival to the hobble or course the
term hobble has long since gained
sufficiently in elasticity to include all
of the close-fitting models. instead of
being confined to the "mince-your-
steps" dimensions. The newest skirts
are long and narrow, with guagings
at the waistline. II the materials are
soft and pliable; or. with tiny plaits
and folds to take in the fulness if the
heavier cloths are used.
Perhaps the very smartest skirts
are those showing one piece tunics,
falling farther low, but showing a
foundation skirt. Very often this low
er skirt is of another color, and not
infrequently one sees it of entirely diff
ferent material. The tunics are al
ways trimmed, usually with braiding
Of soft, rather large black silk or col.
ored cord, and buttons to match. The
skirt Is usually trimmed with fur, or
with band Of velvet or satin.
The short skirt, merely touching the
ground or just clearing it, associated
with separate train or trained tun.
ic has considerable vogue and is Of
ten very charming. The train at the
side instead of the middle of the back
If an amusing whim of fashion, yet
one sees it occasionally. even upon the
more conservative Partisan modes, the
ideas giving scope for the exercising
of very artistic drapery wizardry on
the part OF inspired designers.
Skirt with irregular bottom line are
gaining in favor. although women of
fashion looked at them askance upon
their first appearance. The skirt bot
tom rounded up to a sharp point front
and back is perhaps the most popular
version OF the irregular bottom line,
and since this point is not deep. mere
ly showing the instep, 1t is not ex.
treme enough to offend conservative
tastes. The line allows more freedom
in a very narrow skirt than the
straight bottom line does, and one is
compelled to admit that in connection
with pretty feet and the smartest of
footgear this skirt is really attractive.
After black and white the colors
most affected by well dressed women
seem to be certain shades of dark vio-
let and purple, greys of the vapor,
mouse and medium tones rather than
on the taque shades so long popular,
and the deep blues. One sees all red
Of the Burgundy tone, and rather more
dark brown than usual, though for
some reason or other it is the excep.
tional costume in brown which sue
ceeds in looking noticeably chic.
For the lovely velvet tailor made
gowns there is nothing more elegant
than the velvet shoe. especially when
these frocks are finished with satin.
For satin frocks there are elegant
shoes of soft, lustreless corded silk,
to peep out from the hem of the skirt
Almost any kind of shoe, so long as
it is neat and not exaggerated as to
cut, is en- regle with the new skirts.
but the duller the leather, perhaps,
the better At least it is so in Paris
and New York, where women are seek
ing doeskin for chaussures of every
description. Doeskin, by the way, has
largely taken the place of suede, which
it resembles closely enough to be mis-
taken for it quite often.
There never was such an abundance
of smart blouses as this season. One
of the French coutourieres has turned
out simple model that is attracting
attention on both sides of the water.
The design owes much of it's style to
the ribbon straps crossing the should
ers, and to deep beaded girdle done
in jet and STEEL with mock jewels (or
real, if it can be affordedD, to give a
touch of color. There is a yoke of old
yellow linen, eXquisiteIy embroidered
by hand. This is outlined with bead
ed band.
Wells are of prime Importance in
the wardrobe of the smart women,
and this season they show greater
novelty than ever before. The shape
of the hat and the occasion for which
the veil is needed decide its manner
of draping, and this is point that fire.
quently is overlooked, by women 9TH
erwise perfectly groomed. The wells
that are put on perfectly loose and
that flow all around are especially
popular, but there are many inven-
tions with women who prefer other
methods. More black and white wells
than anything else are being used.
Hats are not matched in color with
them as formerly. The newest veil
just now to attract the attention of
pretty faces is the flesh-pink one spot.
ted with black. A coarse mesh black
veil lined with white maline is useful
for the winter when the winds begin
to blow, and it is very modish and be-
coming.
The all-over wells of cobweb and
octOpus design are still poDular Also