Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1910-06-11

| the dramatic and art critic Pierre Neter;
/ but he dismissed the criticism with a
! word: The late King OF England invent
ed it,.
And. really. what is more ungrac eful
/ than great folds of frork coat hanging
unbuttoned beyond the stomach? Stout
men who wear the bu.toning frock should
/ keep ii always buttoned, but here is a
slender youth who sets them the example
of the chain. to merely join the edges of
less vo!rninous garment-not made to
button. The trocA extends below the
! knees: the lapels are very large. only
| half covered with fancy silk: the vest is
| open. four bu.toned. without collar. the
points at bottom long and cut diagonally
wide open.
| Frock coat or GETAWAY? It will he the
standing debate of the coming chamber Of
deputies. The Comte de Nun. roNaist
leader and descendant Of kings. clamors
for the frorll coat. the deputies true
uniform. Even Gambetta put ii on fer
hs great speeches. Waideck- Rousseau. to
deceive the people. innovated the more
democratic cutaway. and now there are
deputies who sit in sack suits,
/ Andre de Fouquieres. when he ran for
parliament had none of Bon de Castel-
lanes naive hope Ito teach those depu-
ties how to wear their frock coats" He
knows that it cannot be done. Frock and
cutaway are not interchangeab "a d the
well-dressed man feels the occasion.
! The sack suit garment of the morn
ing he says, should leave an impress
sion Of the temporary, the provisional
! the frock and cutaway. garments of the
| afternoon. should bring out the value OF
| the cravat, but the dress suit must be
! impeccable. You can count the few who
know how to wear it. OF an evening
amid hundred gentlemen who pass well
enough in frock coats. the grand seigneur,
| the real dandy. stands out, easily recog-
| nized. Yet to vulgar eyes nothing is sc
| impersonal evening suit.
! The dress coats of M. de Fouquieres
| have short lapels that stop al the opening
| of the vest-a great innovation that leaves
| its white expanse we'll in view Be care
full to have the white dress vest open ir
ogive form, four-buttoned. very close to-
gether. its points cut Giagonaliy wide
But" he added thoughtfully. 1.-The roll
ing lapel is also very elegant for the even
ing.
"You do not like American mems
clothes?" | asked.
American men of Paris society dress
like every ore else served by good Lon
4 don tailors," he replied. But the masses
of Amer:cans-those tourists that one see:
mo: do not approve their clothes
What is wrong with us?" | asked.
Properly speaking. there is no Ameri
can style" he said. Americans are
above all, practical. hence the large
shapeIess. loose-itting suits which the
average American is content to wear
He wants plenty of play for his limbs ant
sacrifices all to it, TIE result is terribly
nartistic. American shoes with theil
bullying fronts also Illustrate this neglec
Of the beautiful. American women. too
dress badly. when straight from home
1t is not surprising that the little trav
eled American man or woman is SO easil!
recognized in Europe. Their clothes be
tray them.
was looking at the cutaway of NJ
Andre de FouQuieres. The vast lapel
Joined with single button at the waist
A lot of braid was visible along its edges
The vest was almost as decollete at bot
tom as at top. The soft. blue-dove-gra
checked pants bore no crease of having
been turned up.
I learned the trick from another youn
elegant of Paris, whose sack-suit pant
turned up at the bottoms as L coul