Semi-weekly herald., 1910-11-28
FADs AND FASHIONS.

Paris as well as IN New York Black
velvet holds first place; then comes
myrtle green; ''pstou". named for the
| grayish tan of the dog in "Chantecler"
and soft golden brown are the favor
| lite colors. Entire suits of velvet,
nuffs. hats. bags and trimmings may
be seen. Evening gowns and wraps.
TOO, are effective when made of chiffon
velvet, with its olinging lines and the
innovations in texture and coloring
that weavers are exploiting. Chan
geable velvets and striped and checked
designs are the newest Two-toned
velvet is much used. It is triumph
of the weaver's art and affords beaut-
iful ground work for embroidery, bead
work and the alliance with satin.
| Gray is fashionable color In Paris
at the moment, and for simple one.
piece gowns there is nothing more
attractive or more generally becoming
Not the dark stone gray, but a much
lighter. silver-gray shade. This can be
made OF velvet of the same shade or
the sharp contrast of black velvet
can be used or all one material will
work out WE'LL Brown Is also fash.
ionable. tobacco brown, but brown
is n dangerous color to recommend
too generally. If the shade Is not lust
right or If it is unheaomming. no
matter how well the gown is made,
it will not be satisfactory. The light
er shades are safer, and tan shades
combined with dark brown velvet
are very smart.
A certain shade of mole gray Is
very smart this winter, and combined
with either moleskin or sealskin, Is
remarkably becoming. the gray OF the
moleskin and the brown CT the seal.
skin each blending well with the shade
of gray. A touch of deep crimson,
green, blue or yellow is the color con
trast introduced, and the most becom.
ing of the three should he chosen
Black velvet with this shade of gray
is not successful; 1t is one of the few
colors that cannot be combined with
black satisfactorily. and even the ad-
ded touch of color does not solve the
difficulty.
The favorite place for the waist
line at present is Just trifle above
the normal; but there are many waists
with rather long WASTED effect in
front, more on the order of the fash
ionable line of three or four seasons
past, while the line from the shoulder
to the bust Is much longer than last
year The majority OF skirts are made
short. With a gown to he worn in the
street, the short skirt is to be advo-
Gated as sensible fashion, but for In.
door wear the short skirts are not
so attractive.
Crepon, so fashionable several years
ago, is among the new materials now
receiving marked attention The so
called silk crepon Is not, as might be
supposed, light weight silk crepe
but looks and feels like silk finish.
ed cloth, often with line In IT.
1t Is quite lusturOus and has almost
a satin sheen and some warmth 1t
Is most effective material and for
a one-piece simple gown is delightful
while to wear with velvet or fur
coat 1t Is more practical than anything
else A dark blue trimmed with black
silk braid and with blue velvet coat.
n shade deeper in color, is is most pop
ular model
There are lighter weights of crepon,
more like heavy silk crepe, that are
used for tea gowns and house gowns
enough for street wear. Among them
are many of the changeable effects,
a pinkish mauve shading into green
n great favorite and extremely new
The material does not require much
trimming, Is not too expensive and,
altogether deserves its popularity. but
at the same time 1t is only practical
for the house during the winter season
Black satin is favorite and prac-
| tical material for the central utility
coat and 1t would be hard to find any
thing more serviceable and chic for
| the uses which the average woman
must put her evening coat. Delicate
lined satlns and velyets, costly and
porishable stufs, are very well in ones
private limousine and for the wo-
man who does not have to lengthen
out the term OF service of her clothes:
but for her less fortunate sisters black
satin is as good material as they
could choose.
One of the enveloping black satin
coats OF good quality. lined throughout
with white or plain color, having an
enormous soft floppy collar of the satin
needs no trimming save handsome fast
enings and ornaments of silk cord,
cord covered with the satin or passem.
enteris. Is an admirable thing for the
woman who must be practical. Many
Of these black satin coats are slightly
draped. caught up In folds to the point
where they fasten.
As an inevitable result of the ad
option OF directory modes the dress
rayarg apnear on hodicea roofa and