The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1910-04-17

satin in q desp shade. Over this
wns q long fun bsltsd cont % chiffon
| matching Tho satin. bat finely soutachsd
all over in a shade Of blue just tribe
lighter.
0ulmpe. collar and long sleeves were OF
plain blus chiffon in tho lighter shade.
There vas q narrow band Of dull gold
Gallon on the collar and On each slosvS
and the belt was Of dull gold. The very
nllRht contrast Of ths two tones. the
beauty OF the soutachS embroidery and
the perfection Of linz made this q most
individual and admirable model. though
In point u general limo o. had much hi
common With q host Of undssirables.
Less soutache embroidery In seen than
last season. yet Il appears effectively on
many Of tho most successful mod"ls'
Tavernior has o frock which has beon
copied frequently and with various mOdi-
hcationa. In one Veraion Il n OF white
tcrepo. q simple bodice and skirt. the lAtter
trimmed Nm q doop nounOo Of Valsncisnnes
| lnoS inaee with VenStian motifs. This
aOunSo N weighted down by . wide Dor
der Of -Mnaiaus' psinssd oOtton-it mighe
he described a. q cretonno Of quaint
dsaign and RAy oolOring-which almost
loses Ies Identify by having len dootgn
outlined by flns Whiee sOutache.
Tbs soWtachs noe only outlines ehs
dnsl4n bue n manasd la scroll design hare
and thers over tn surface. As hrse
@lam~s d b almost impossible % tsll just
how eha effect h produced. You In
clins toward believing thae gay Bull
Earian b mingled With .soatashs sua-
broldery. bus a closer scrutiny reveals
tbs oomp0sifion. Rsvsrs 0f tfze poutachsd
cosenn are on the bodice. which h largely
of ths lace. and bands of tho trimming
finiah the abort. wide peasant sleevss 81
crepe.
Rank among The first Parisann makers
was predicted fAr Tavernier when shs
Iflrst looEasd upon the fashionable horizon
and hsr models were practically un-
known here. She has unquestionably
arrived. but still comparatively fow Of
her clever and original creations ara SEEN
among the imported models. Tho Inn
porter OF tho erAps and crotonns model
was asked 20 explain this stats % affairs.
He ahruaRed his shoulders. -
she does not want u.s. he said. Her
ambition In q tremsdOu@ly chic private
trade and shs has won t. She told me
frankly this spring that Ahe woald make
ne . fTook or two for friendship's sake
but that she did not care Tor shop trade
The Bulgarian embroidery. of which
tho soutachs embroidsrad crwtonne
offered q suGgostsca. h used effectively
on frocks OF the son. heavy homespun OF
hand woven linsns which are soextremsiy
smart. 40 expensive and 30 hard TO Oh
tain. These linens como In several
effects copying the weavss Of ths English
woo!lsns--strspe. chsvvon. basket and
mixed ws&vev-and some Of tho French
drs.snskins houses have exclusive
wssveS I'm these llnens. 90 that you can
obtain material 60 duplicate their linen
models only through them.
Several attractive imposted tlnsn models
Of this class seen IN one shop had trim
ming Of very heavy open mesh linen lace,
and about the neck. on the cuffs and In q
mere touch on the best was heavy Bul.
garian embroidery In bold dssign and
bFiRhs colors. For Instance. a aoft, dull
light blue linen was embr0tdered IN
bright yellow. black. white and darker
blue. An oyster white linen had embroid
cry Of bright red. bright blue. black ans
green.
AprOpos OF things homsspun Il may b,
noted that there are some imported taIIol
snits Of wonderful Scotch homespunI
woven On hand loouas. s0fe, looas stuff
which WIN wear unsndingly and n of de
llghtful texture and cOloring. The ma
tsrial ssIls a. high - % and u yard.
Black and whiss wooIssns. parsiSuiaFl,
OF the always popular check designs. BIZ
fair 20 rival dArk blue serge az q summe
uniform They are nc their best whei
made up on severe tailored lines.
Smarter from q Partisan point a vie,
are the suits OF striped black and white
and these often have a touch OF colo
in the collar. say q collar Of heavy re-
or dull blue linen embroidered in whit
X and borSiered by black satin fold. Blu
and white stripes arr being made up afte
- the same fashion by the French tailor.
-. and the stylish striped grays in eEo G
:. three tones are also well liked.
"A Collars ef black satin are used upon
nj majority Of the severely tailored suit,
With black MORE sometimes taking th
an place Of the satin. and other trimming {
90 black satin n often added. One goo
-, tailored costume Of dark blue serge Ia
a. black satin on collar. cuffs and waisi
~ cost. and the stralghe. closs skirt oper
io all the way zap one side to show a plai
m undernlirt Of black satin. Very wild
!. black silk braid IL wsad upon some OF Ii
=, good looking dark blus serge trOssin
mo- suits turned out by the fashionabI
IA taiIOrs.
IN A heavy. son. corded silk OF the Otts
mi man variety n made Up with q oorbea
blue cloth in one new and SUCCESSFUL mode
-, the silk forming a plain deep band on Oh
bottom Of the skirt. this hand ascendin
= above the knees. The short coat. crossin
:. 20 Rassen with q single bag button bar Z
~ one side and at the waist line. 10 enttrel
~ of the Ottoman and h untFimmsd. but Ia