davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
SOME LITTLE POINTS

Flowers are largely yelled with sons
thing diaphanous. and the same sheer
stuff with which we are growing so ia
miliar is used instead Of artificial leaves.
1t is poked in among roses and other
flowers to give the leaf effect in small
green loops
The cabochon has not escaped friyo-
lous touch. The tiny quills that 20 to
make up large feathered disks are
brought into cabochon shape and char
acter by pleated or gathered strip OF
maline mounted upon a disk OF cape net.
The pleatins surrounds the disk and the
feathered wheel fills UP the center.
The same pleating OF malins surrounds
many rosy cabochon made Of artificial
flowers and leaves.
More than ever before is It necessary
for the home milliner TO know certain
choice materials belonging to the trade.
Cape net is one OF these. II Is a sttf-
fened bobbinet used for the backs OF
certain round or high ornaments. ana
for the stfffsning OF large crush crowns
tnat would otherwise not stand In place.
Another friend Of the milliner Is the
thinnest possible wire covered with ssw-
Ing SILK 1t Is sold by the yard from
spools and is not always easy to locate.
Usually the kind-hearted milliner VIII
sell 1t from the stock OF artificial aov-
erS and feathers.
1t Is necessary IN maline work in the
gracing OF the tall lace bows and for
surrounding the edges OF upturnsd lace.
Those who would attempt the manu-
facture Of the French handmade aowsr
viii ind 1t invaluable for the bracinx
OF the leaves and for long silk stems;
for these purposes the green covered IN
desirable.
When We talk OF roses made by hand.
maine once more comes to mind. for
there Is no newer flower than the ma
hne (or chiffon) rose. In either ma
terial they may be accomplished by
hand and with patience. The latter 10
a most necessary part OF the process,
but the result will justify all expendl-
ture or time and energy.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Straw Roses

~TRAw hat braids are being utilized
by clever women for the manufac-
~ ture OF artificial roses In the very
little sizes-the tiny cluster roses that
form tight punches or cabochops.
They are chiefly seen on tailored hat
models Of rough-and-ready straw, and
are made to match the hat. although
OF a softer, more pliable straw braid.
or they are made Of a contrasting
brighter color.
This flexible straw braid IS rolled be-
tween the thumb and finger, and is
then held tightly and sewed into rose
bud and surrounded by other buds like
1t to the number Of two dozen or more.
To this group is added an edging OF
artificial grsen leaves, and they arc
clapped against the velvet band OF a
trim tailored hat to serve as buckle or
bow where the velvet joins.
Deep rose red with green leaves looks
well on a light rose-colored straw
trimmed with black velvet ribbon.
The all-lavender hat made up Of straw
with self-colored velvet trimming Ia re-
lieved by these tiny roses made of plia-
BILE black straw braid surrounded by
green leaves; and the white rough-and-
ready sailor shape with rose-colored
silk as a scarf drapery is made more
fetching by bunch of the roses OF
straw braid to match the silk and the
necessary addition of the green leaves.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Embroidery Upon Lace

TYPON some Of the most exquisite
French underwear there is a
copyable little note for the deft-
fingered women Of our needlework guild.
Heavy motifs Of embroidery ornament
valenciennes lace.
They appear upon the cross section Of
the nightdress, the chenaise and the cor
set cover: also upon those strips pass
ing over the shoulder. and again on the
lace drawer ruff1es. Several strands of
white untwisted cotton are used for this
work. and the pattern of the lace is usu-
ally selected as the design-that is, some
single motif or spray OF blossom and
rear is set in exactly the. proper place
wneu the garment is made. so that It
may be made more prominent by this
enriching process.
sPainting the lily" you will suggest,
tnis putting Of embroidery upon lace;
but 1t Is recommended as is all extra
enort, to the persistent embroiderer who
does not hesitate to involve herself in q
vast amount Of work.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
To Roughen Leghorn

TT is almost impossible really to In
jure a good Ieghorn hat. and by
Il the toughest sort Of process the
too well.hnished specimen may be
brought into such complete state
Of submission that It will finally
turn out the thing you most desire
II to be. :
For the present season 1t should
be rough. unfinished. uneven and a de-
lightful natural yellow, and this Is
possible IL Il be scrubbed with strong
soap, ammonia and a scrubbing
brush until ell the dressing has dis
appeared.
It should be pressed on its wrong side
with a hot iron. but with a piece Of
new unblsaehed muslin between iron
and hat. and, further, upon the wrong
side Il tho straw shows the least tend
ency to get fat or glossy.
After the hat has been properly
pressed It should be colored g. deep
yellow with q mixture OF oil paint
and gasoline.
This will also tend to roughen It
to that delightful texture now so fash
fonable
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Henstitching

ITO THOSE women who wish the at
traotive touch OF hemstitching
- without the trouble and time
necessary for handwork, a suggestion
comes from one Of our circle that is
well worth trying.
After drawing the required number OF
threads. turn down the hem and baste,
with the edge of the hem in the center
Of the drawn threads.
Now loosen the tension OF the ma
chine. and stitch the hem on the exact
edge. Remove the basting threads and.
with the hem In one hand, pull the gar
ment away from IL, thus drawing down
the stitching 10 the bottom of the
drawn threads.
Hemstitched tucks can be made in
tne same way, and after a little prac-
tice a degree OF perfection can be at
tained that makes the result scarcely
cistinguishable from handwork.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Wash Silk for Children

NNE Of the best ways Of trimming
the striped wash silks for very
~ little girls is with the narrowest
ribbon velvet made into bows.
1t is not generally advisable to use
silk for little children, but We make the
exception in favor Of colored striped
silks from Japan and China. which are
so very launderabie and which shed the
dust as do no wash materials of cotton
or linen.
The ribbon velvet bows and rosettes
are necessarily ripped OF when the lit
tie garment goes 10 the wash.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Parasol Embroidery

"HE monogram, or even the single
initial, has demanded its peculiar
- place on the embroidered para
sol Whether there be a full all
over design or the merest touch OF
work on linen, silk or pongee. 1t is
always possible to make space upon
some one single section to wedge in
the heavily embroidered monogram OF
the woman who insists upon thus
making her belongings personal.
This means the planning of one sec
tion in a slightly different design
from others, and 1t should be quite
possible to the proficient worker who
has frequently moved her designs
about to ft them into crevices and
corners.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Footing Frills

~ NE Of the most girlish white
dresses of the season is a ba-
~ tiste model having no other dec
grafton than several widths of white
footing.
The skirt IS bordered with three
f1ounces of batiste six inches deep,
each set six inches above the last.
Now each scant ruffie is frilled with
two widths Of footing. two inch and
q one inch being shirred into outstand
ing frills.
The narrower width of footing
adorns the bodice, with the wider one
mitered in as square Dutch neck.
and used as a cuffband for the three
quarter sleeve.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Black Embroidery

HCRU linens striped with black ara
n good. and are bought by the ar
ustic dressmaker with a view to
tneir embroidering possibilities.
Siack mercerized cotton Is ''fast'' and
WI WI MorK up well in solid work upon
tne striped linen ground
Inc pattern Is stamped upon the stripe.
regardless Of it, for therein lies the
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Tucks to Curve Sleeve

n KADE on rather straight lines, the
M best blouse sleeves of sheer linen
ASA show from five to seven tiny
tucks crossing the front seam of the
sleeve just where the sleeve naturally
wrinkles with the turn of the arm.
You see, these will give the desired
the necessary-curve, and you may Sc
lect the exact position for your own ex-
elusive pleats by trying on the blouse
with the sleeve in place and secured at
the armhole. and by observing the wrin-
kles at the turn of the arm.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Striped Collars

HoLLARs. the plain turnover var,-
ETY., are once more embroidsrad
upon striped linen and in the color
of the stripe.
This Is particularly attractive idea
for the wearer of black and white, and
In layenders it produces most attract
i've effect.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
cHANeEABLE EFrECrs

The last note In drsssnal<ing and IN
millinery Is the effect chan ngeabls. and
delicate hat fabrics give wonderful op-
portunisy for bringing thts about.
Black over gold-colored or over whito
maline Is fetching. or the rolling or
plating together OF long strands OF ddf-
ferent tones, such as blue with black or
light green with black. 10 most effective
and suggestive OF this very prominens
note in millinery.
IF you would cover a whole hat With
rolls or plaits OF naline. get a smaller
beehive frame than Is your Anal object.
because these big. loose twists will
vastly increase the Eze. On a large
brimmed model from Paris-ons with
roll to the side-there was a piait OF
maline made up OF three long strips
loosely folded over some long strands
OF raffia. The plait was so large and
thick as to lie loosely upon Ehe whole
brtm.
Bordeaux red rama covered with black
on black hat II perfect eombina-
ton
The large bows upon the maline-deco-
rated hat are almost innumerable if
counted and the millIner no longer de-
pends upon wires, which she may or n
not conceal, to hold them up. She boldly
twists round each wire a long. wide
ribbon, and this she loops IN the center
OF each big maline loop, so that II holds
up the great bows. while it helps 70
adorn them and the hat
Persian. paisley and even pompadour
ribbons have been used under almost
any shade OF plain maline in this sup
port. Still another device is the looping
into bows OF two thicknesses OF maline.
one black. the other a deep rose. and
then covering the upholding wires with
a thick decorative wrapping OF the rose
maline
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Stocking Feet

H ONT consider it an economy TO
put children's feet into last sum-
mer's outgrown stockings. Short
feet in stockings may permanently de-
prive the child Of grace, and may even
years of expensive shoes to counteract.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
The Flowing Sleeve

TY HE sectional sleeve has now taken
within its more ample folds an un-
- dersleeve.
Just as soon as the guimpe sleeve be-
comes a puff we term 1t an under
sleeve, and Immediately the overhanging
section Of sleeve which has been closely
fitted widens and forms almost the
flowing sleeve Of tygone day.
The looser or upper sleeve Is half
length, three-quarter or quite full length.
but is always decorated and SO care
fully faced as to admit OF free move
ment Of the arm without danger OF dis
closing an. unfinished interior.
Undersleeves are lace, lawn, net or
organdie, chiffon, marquisette and even
delicate silk.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10

Z ct me say to one and all among
or embroiderers that Il always
- affords me pleasure when 7 am
able to comply with requests for needle
work designs.
The design shown on the page today
grew out Of the very sensible suggestion
for slip covers for table mats in the or
dinary scalop we ell ike so well
Il is the edge with which many of Us
ere familiar in the machine-made en-
broidery, except for the fact that here
has been added an eyelet TO beautify.
Embroiderers all know that these SIM
pie table necessities are far more salts
factory when made at home. They are
so planned that the platter mat cover
will inclose a 9 by 1s inch asbestos mat.
whsch is the size usually sold. The
vegetable dish size will accommodate a
mat by inches, again the most popu-
lar one. The ovals Of asbestos may be
bought at most Of the shops in regula-
ton sizes already bound.
The smaller oval here shown is for
the inside OF a bread tray, and again
let me say this is the size most fre-
ouently sold.
In making the mats, after the heavy
hnen has been marked with the design
e piece Of linen the same size is basted
beneath the first: basted with absolute
precision all along the edges and
through the center to secure perfect
smoothness. Through these two thick
nesses are worked the padded button
holes and the open eyeiets
Now, to get the asbestos mat inside.
an opening is made along the one edge
OF the mat by cutting an incision along
the under side just within the seal
Hoped edge. This cut edge is straight
ened and hemmed. Now I have told
you the simplest method for the letting
IN Of the mat, but there is a second.
Can you grasp a slightly more COM
plcated idea in writing?
Cut a piece Of heavy linen ample In
size as a backing for the mat. Slit
one-Quarter OF II on on the lengthwise
OF the goods. Hem this and hem the
larger piece with half-inch hens. Baste
these hens together by overlapping
them. This win again give you a solid
piece Of linen Gf you disregard the
fact that you have basted IL together).
Now line the stamped mat with this
piece, laying It beneath the mat so that
the piecing is very far toward the one
side
After you have embroidered the
double mat. rip out the hastings on the
under side, make two loops and sew
on two small fat buttons. ana the mat
3e finished.
An altogether desirable piece Of
needlework for mother or daughter 70
keep on hand ana q Joy when finished,
for the table mat is one Of the prob
aems OF the housekeeper.
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
Shirtwaist Tucks

MOULD you vary your shirtwaist
w tucks? Use the widest-a two-inch
tuck, alternated with the narrowest.
which are pinch tucks
The San Francisco call., 1910-04-10
FOR THE HOME
MILLINER

EALINE in the hands OF the up
MI to-date milliner has taken unto
AL itself a new significance As
actual trimming it now appears,
whereas il was once used merely to
bolster up the hat or 10 soften il
along the line OF the coirfure. Poked
into the crevices beneath the hat. it
has done noble duty in the past. but
IT Is now raised to a more prominent
position in the millinery world.
The spring hat, and even more no
ticeably the summer hat. win show the
maline treatment at it's best.
Whole hats are made OF It upon wirs
frames. Firstly. let the danger note b:
sounded: keep the hat airy and dainty s"
and. secondly. be 1t remembered THAI
quantity stands for almost more than
quality in nlaltne-
Upon no condition cover the frame
frst with heavy silk; one Of the beau
ties OF the shirred or rolled maline hat
Is its sheerusss. Never mind IL the
daylight shows through your crown or
your brtm; this 10 one OF the notes OF a
very lacy season.
So that you may be able to make ths
hat. cover the frame first with malins
itself. or with the sheerest mousssline OF
the same shade. or the lighter OF the
two II yours has been a choice OF two
shades to make a chanEeabb0 hat.
The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1910-12-09

telegraph is used and in each state Uncle Sam
has a saaried state agent who devotes his
whole time to travelling over his state and Sizing
up" the situation, sending in his conclusion by
telegraph but taking the precaution to write his
messages in secret code or cipher so that no,
person, not the telegraph operators who han
die them, could catch their meaning and thereby
gain hint to what might be expected in a
forthcoming crop report.
1t is at the crop reporting headquarters at
Washington that this scheme OF keeping watch
on the maturing cotton crop involves task that
taxes human endurance. To convey an idea of
It's magnitude it is only necessary to explain that
during the cotton growing season the statistcians
are in correspondence with more than sixty thous
and public and private ginneries and upward of
fifteen thousand bankers, merchants and others
who are In position to form opinions on the cot
ton yield. The advices from all these volunteer
intelligence officers" are looked up as received
at Washington and kept closely guarded until the
day appointed for preparing the monthly report
Then the body of experts known as the Crop Re-
porting Board is locked in and. taking all
the accumulated information, goes it and
prepares general summary that embodies their
fndings-the average 1t were, of all the
ports received from every quarter Conditions may
vary greatly in different parts of the country but
the general report will give the people of the ma
ton birds eye view of the whole situation In
broad sense 1t is this report which at the ap-
pointed hour is made public and inside OF few
minutes is flashed to all parts of the country and
to foreign parts
Observation-Disclosures HeEegAaARAEAaAa
Throw out the mail sack, ordered the man
with the rife
81 reached down and flung the sack into the
road. .
BETTER throw out the wes-Fargo box, too
guess he added
IL kicked over the treasure box ordered.
"'Thats all, said the man. CURLY. Drive on.
II touched up the team and went bowling
merrily down the canyon. There was not word
spoken for full ten minutes. Then the young
woman, turning to me, said, guelessy
THAT looked like mighty lonesome place to
have postofice!"
The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1910-12-09

fred! So glad-so very glad, to see
you'll"
Dearest gave him both her pretty
hands.
You old dear!" she cried How
nice of you to GOMEZ"
And now sit down and tell us all
about it" said my wife. "Wilfred has
given me his version, of course, but 1
want it from headquarters. It's the
most exciting thing in the world! How
nice Of your Aunt Georgy to give us
all such an interesting problem to
solve."
Terhune sat down in my wicker
chair and seated myself on the grass
by Dearest.
yes, indeed. I feel quite grateful
to her for providing US with such a
genuine bit of romance" she contln-
ued. ITS as good as a dime novel.
and Wilfred and l would be too
pleased for anything to assist in it's
denouement."
1T does seem extraordinary" ac-
quiesced Terhune, that such thing,
an event so out of the common, should
happen to me. Who would ever have
thought of Aunt Georgy carrying on
like that! Why, she's promised me
the property all her life, and to go and
decree suddenly, out Of clear sky,
that | must marry in ten days or for
felt 1t. just because I'm forty years
old! Why, it's the most absurd thing
ever heard in my life!" And he
mopped his brow fussily as he spoke.
Dearest smiled at him sympathetic
ally. Finding a wife in as short
time as that does sound like a pretty
difficult proposition" she murmured.
"Beastly difficult" exploded Arch.
And that's what I came up from Lon
don to see you for. | thought If any
one could suggest an expeditions way,
1t would be my friends the Vincents!
You know you did things in rather
hurry yourselves" Making reference
of course to my rapid courtship of my
wife during the exciting and some
what unusual events pertaining to
six weeks visit made by Terhune and
myself at Castle Wyckhoff the year
before
And your confidence is not at all
misplaced, my boy" said ]. "as you
will find!" And fell to telling him of
our house party plan all in breath
and as fast as could talk.
Terhune was first amazed, then
doubtful. and then, as the full beauty
of it struck him. he rose in his en-
thusiasm and seized hand of each of
u.s.
Agatha SIXTH" he cried; who
else? 1t shall be she and no other.
What friends you two are to give me
the chance!"
The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1910-12-09
CHAPTER III.

And If you'll believe me, the evening
Of the next day saw our two other
prospective guests, the Misses Agatha
First and Sixth, actually under our
roof. We had sent motor over to
Chiltern house that morning after a
telephone Capitalization between my
wife and the mistress of that estab-
lishment, and by dinner time our rath-
er peculiarly interesting house party
was gathered round the table COM
plete.
We were very gay-my wife and
myself as head conspirators in a
matrimonial plot = especially so,
though the two girls were almost as
merry. Agatha First had much to
tell of her visit at Chiltern house
and Agatha Sixth of my wife's friends
in America, so that the dinner hour
passed rapidly. Agatha First had
been with Mrs. Chiltern the longer, it
seemed, Agatha Sixth having had
friends In London to visit, had only
been with her week. The two girls
were not intimate friends, Dearest
told me afterward. They had not
been as much so with each other as
they had been with others of the six
Agathas who had first visited her
at Castle Wyckhoff lay stress upon
this fact because 1t accounts for a
number of things to occur later. or
all the party. Arch was the only one
who seemed at all quiet. and l guessed
The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1910-12-09

he sitting up there as pretty target one ever
saw in a shooting gallery Furthermore, the last
man they want to shoot is the driver, for that
would mean runaway team-of all things what
the robbers don't want; they've got enough to
keep them busy, as it is Perhaps cannot illus
trate better what occurs at real stage robbery
than by giving you my experience when | was
driving stage through southern Idaho in the early
eighties
81 driving from Shoshone to Boise City,
about dusk one evening going down the
canon road that leads from Camas prairie to the
headwaters Of the Payette-not settler for miles
around. There was only one passenger aboard,
young woman from New England
Now, while the country she had come from
and that she was going to civilized all right,
the strip in southern Idaho then trav-
cling over was pretty wild. But didn't say a
word to her about it for fear of frightening the
little thing
"She was sitting up on the OK with me and
admiring the sunset tlnts in ne western sky
when, as swung around nd in the canon
a man standing in the middle I the road about
fifty feet ahead, with Winchester rifle lying In
the hollow of his arm, flung up his hand to me.
He was the first human being we had since
we left Shoshone at daybreak that morning
though that wasn't the reason threw my leaders
back on their launches, flung the brake and
came to sudden STOP
The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1910-12-09

There's nothing differs more from real west
ern life than the tales of real western life as told
by writer's who claim to have taken part and In
deed played the star role in most of the adven-
lures they so carefully describe, with an adver-
tised view to correct details" said an old from
tiersman of the seventies. And of all the tales
of western life there's none that differs so widely
from the real thing as the tale of the stage coach
hold-up.
1.-THE breathless reader sees vividly the out
laws lying in wait along the edge of the mesa
bluff is too common word to use-while the
coach tolls up from the 'arroyo'-so is 'gulch'-
the leader, we'll masked in his poncho-likewise
is Enthusiastically surveying the doomed vehicle.
Then comes the attack, the killing of the
driver the wild pursuit, the Staying of the leader
. of the band by the brave young mining engineer,
who has thrown himself in front of the beautiful
miionaire's daughter just in time to save her
life and get bullet in his arm that she nurses
through to marriage, the repulse of the outlaws,
etc. all pentlfully garnished with mongrel Mexi-
can terms that are never heard except on the
melodrama stage or seen outside the tale afore
said.
"Now In real life there is seldom any shooting
IN stage-coach robbery. One thing is certain,
the driver never gets shot The driver is never
even shot at for he very sensiby puts up his
hands. knowing how suicidal would be any at
tempt at resistance against armed outlaws, and