The San Francisco call., 1910-09-20
MILADY MUST
WEAR CHEMISE
ON The OUTSIDE
Likewise She Must doll Up"
Like a Length of Stovepipe
or Cream Roll
Greek Chiffon" and a Bolster
Slip" Gown Are DEGREES
of Fashion for 1911

CHICAGO. Sept. ls.-The fashion
ably dressed woman hereafter must
wear TWO chemises-one underneath
and one on top.
This is the latest dream Of those who
make clothes for womee and which
was exploited today at the opening of
the annual convention Of the Chicago
dress makers club.
Ofhcially. the new idea is character
lied as the Greek Chiffon, but Pa
risian article" il being explained that
this appellation was used for the pur-
pose OF making it go down easily.
much as q branded peach once helped
2 dose OF quinine. The thing is really
an outside chemise" and was invented
20 help out the top end Of a contraption
Just now which is known in the dress
making shop as the bolster slip gown"
One Of the star demonstrators al the
convention this year is Mrs. Middleton,
who has spent Is years studying how.
they create fashions in Paris and clamp
them on the rest of the world.
FASTENS on SHOULDER
The outside chemise fastens on the
left shoulder" she said. ITS the next
thing after you leave a Greek gown.
YOU know, and happened first back
there with the early Christions. They
are TO be made in different lengths and
OF all sorts Of material. They are a
part Of the dress, not q cloak or wrap
Of any sort They viii be worn next
year"
The bolster slip" gown. which is
coming right along, by the way. is the
fnal outcome of the hobble skirt.
Among real dress makers. it seems.
the hobble skirt never was, isn't and
never viii he. but it has created a
Tendency" and the bolster slip" is a
child Of that tendency.
To make a bolster slip gown:
Anything viii do for the neck yoke
-and sleeves. Take something you had
last year and turn il.
HOW THEY'RE MADE
For the remainder of the dress take
2 piece Of cloth s long as you are
from under your arms TO the top of
your shoes-anj it's going to be
largely of some Oriental stuff with
Oriental coIors.
Next measure how much YOU are
around right under the arm pits, and
that's what the width must be. Cut
Il square and then sew the edges to-
gether Sew it tight, beca use-well,
it's. got to be sewed tight.
When it's finished it will look-if
you're slim-like a section Of stove
pipe Of an empty cream puff.
If you're fat. don't make one.
To get into a bolster slip" gown:
Stand the gown on the floor under
meath the chandelier. Use a small
sized step ladder 10 get up above it.
Grasp the main part of the chandelier
firmly with both hands Draw the feet
UP under the arms. then slowly wriggle
into the bolster slip" from the top to
the bottom
7nppTNG AFFAIR TT TS
Never sit down fn bolster slip
gown There would be a report like
something ripping and it would have
10 be sewed again.
The outside chemise" is to be hung
over the bolster slip gown. A
glance in the mirror will show perfect
telegraph pole lines and you are cor
rectly dressed in the 1911 fashion.
The Chicago dressmakers' club this
year is particularly interested I'm get
ting under way a project for the estab-
afshment Of a museum and trade school
a. Chicago. In this museum VIII be
housed textiles from all over the world
p The school. which il is hoped may be
IN sflliation with the public school
system Of Chicago. will train young
boys and girls 10 be artistic dress
makers. The matter is to be discussed
and action viii be taken at BANQUET
to be held at the Palmer house Friday
evening.
Thursday afternoon the dressma kers'
club Is to hold q theatrical ma atinee'
at the Palmer house, when actresses
who are playing in Chicago will an
pear IN their prettiest gowns. The
convention continues tomorrow.