davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Waists for Suits

"TASTS for tailor-made suits
wv match the suits IN color. That
Is the final dictum OF fashion,
and white and even Persian waists are
60 be distinctly secondary IN smartness
and Importance 10 the smart colored
blouse.
The effect, OF course, is that OF q
three-piece gown; and sometimes the
trimmings are Of q sort to give the ap-
pearance even OF a two-piece costume.
These waists are most frequently Of
chiffon, marquisette. wolfe or net In
less expensive costumes they are being
made OF messaline and tafeta with
chiffon.
You will want TO know. Of course,
the popular colors for suits, so as to
be able to match your blouse correctly.
Most fashionable are navy blue, seal
and golden brown. dark green and
black. There are also some lighter
shades which are IN the mode, such
as ocher, Lavender, natter blue. taupe
and bronze.
When Persian waists are worn now.
they ere veiled with chiffon or some
other sheer fabric, or toned down with
AD4AE VI Eld4A C44h NL Sd-AAAt Usually
black. Black waists are usually OF
silk. such as taffeta, messaline, satin.
crepe de chine and silk meteor. How
ever, chiffon and marquisette are also
seen. chiefly in veiled models.
A good many black waists are made
over white or fancy silk Innings, have
small yOkes and collars OF white lace, or
are otherwise trimmed or combined with
white. A few have a touch OF
oriental or metallic embroidery.
Wash waists are nearly all tailored,
for street and business wear, of linen,
madras and fancy shirrings. A few
have white grounds with colored
checks, stripes or jacquard effects. The
sleeves In these are mostly of the
kimonO or peasant smock cut. Few
lingerie waists viii be seen; what few
there are are OF lawn, marquisette or
cotton VOile.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Fall Fashions
in Epitorne

TT IS impossible to give a better -
sumo OF the fall fashions in general
- than by taking as text one modish
woman properly gowned. From hat to
skirt such a woman illustrates admira-
bly, an the newest and smartest tenden-
cies
The hat first. The new high crowned
and wfde-brfmmed beaver. much wider
IN the back than in the front. where the
orim is lowered as In the steeplechase
mats OF another season. The hat itself
Is olue-blaek. but the lining is OF old
rose satin. feature that is TO be marked
IN autumn millinery. Not only hats,
however. but suits also are TO be lined
with silk or satin OF strongly contrast
ing cOlor-a sort OF reaction from the
somber shades that In general fashion
has imposed upon US.
The willow plume. OF a slightly bright
er old rose. Is arranged rather far back
on the right side. in the outstanding mill
tary effect that we have renamed the
chantecler. There is no other trimming
on the hat. the effect aimed at being
rather striking simplicity than ornats
elaboration.
Ihe suit is OF plum-cOlored broadcloth,
cut In semiempire style. with lines
closely conforming to the figure, with a
swaIow-tail coat whose waist nns Is
higher than we have been accustomed
70 seeing or late. The sleeves are fuIl-
length and rather loose. widened IN
sailor fashion at the cuffs and orna-
mented with a row OF Ave large white
pearl buttons.
Inese buttons are repeated at the
Side OF the skirt. which Is narrow In
cut without being tight. and itself Is
chnglng and almost trailed at the bot
TOM The coat Is double-breasted and
fastened by these same pearl buttons.
White. black and smoked pearls are
TO be very much seen on button counters
this fall.
The wide FUR scarf and nun are ad-
mirable examples OF the autumn fash
ions in furs. Gray shares with white
and black the favor OF the f1r-wearers
Chuman. not an1malD. and where the
nature OF the fur VIII not allow OF
very wide effects. the strips are sewn
together IN striped effect. Another hint
TO the wise: Line your nuns with white
satin, for white gloves are to be very
popular, and they are easily sofed.
Another distinctly fashionable touch
Is the single rose. real or artificial.
fastened into the fur scarf, Just where
1t crosses, and contrasting harmoniousIy
with the color Of the costume. The
craze for artificial flowers Of rice paper
and silk tissue continues, and roses are
among the prime favorites.
1t will be noted that our dainty LADY.
wears hfeb br1tfoDad Sbooz - .Y-Ax.
topped kid, and that her separate
blouse IS OF messaline silk. In color
midway between the plum or her suit
and the old rose OF her plume
Thus equipped. our maiden may 20
forth triumphantly into the world OF
fashion. AS we have said, she repre-
sents the sum total and the epitoms OF
the Paris styles for autumn.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Black Velvet

/" HE vogue for black velvet reached
its height when some Paris design
- ers allied It with English eyelet
embroidery. People gasped, stared and
then as quickly as possible went and did
likewise 1t Is not surprising TO see how
general the use OF this supple material
for it must be supplies.
1t edges the 1lny materials OF evening
gowns. A broad band OF velvet Is used
at the hem or TO gather IN the fullness
of tunic- This note Is repeated on tina
sleeves that might suggest too little
strength Of weave to sustain the weight.
but 1t can be done with safety and un-
deniable effect
Black velvet with lace is another com
oination that Is charming. Spanish lace.
IN white. black or colors, Is relieved by,
strips and panels OF velvet that gives a
rich body to any flmy gown and affords
contrast in textures.
As rosettes. girdles or pipings tho uss
OF Oiack velvet is without limit. The
color ltsen serves to bind together two
contrasting shades into a veritable har-
Inony- Again. 1t gives a line OF contrast
between two tones OF one color. thus
ing lines
Sashes are dominant note thI. -
son. or black velvet, fringed with beav1,
sllK or allied In unexpected ways win
chiffon or tulle. sash win add siSti1c-
ton to the simplest frock. The sensfbl,.
way is to make it adjustable. for the
friendly black can be taken from ona
froek and used on another gown wtth
great effect.
Black velvet hats for aeternoo, a,A
evening are undoubtedly In the foremost
ranks. They are shown IN soma ad-S
vanced openings m large, low shapeaf
with oval crowns Frequently there ara
contrasting under surfaces OF brixht
satin.
For evening gowns the black ve,vse
models bid fair to carry the laurels.
They are combined with gold or silver
embroidery or with wonderful beaded
plastrons that reflect the colors OF thu
rainbow.
When you discover the magniacenr
evening wraps OF black velvet that are
friendly IN that they viii grace any COL
ored costume. then, indeed. the fun Sig
nihcance OF beauty win burst upon YOU.
These can be lined with metallic tulle
under chiffon; they can be lined with
soft hand-painted satin or brocaded silk
and are so lovely on the inner surface
that many owners will be tempted TO
turn them inside out for a change
But remember that black velvet il fbo
fabric for this autumn and winteri
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
The Tunic

"HE tunic continues in favor for fall
styles. It is usually very long
II though short tunics have been
seen in Paris; and it is frequently caught
into a band below the knees.
Sometimes it is of self-material. but
more frequently of some such sheer fab
ric as marquisette. silk voile or chiffon
Overdresses. very much akin to tunics,
are Of sheer fabrics also. and are espe-
cially popular for afternoon and even
ing gowns.
The chief use Of the tunic as trimming
the popular oriental effects. Sometimes
the tunic is edged or banded with the
fabric it wells.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Some French
Notes


A T RUMPLEMEYER'S there have
IA been seen some Of the most at
4 \ tractive toilettes this last week
Afternoon dresses OF blue Nolie
over gray satin seem TO predominant.
To carry out the alliance Of blue ana
gray, these frocks are worn with huge
gray hats trimmed with plumes
A practical street hat seen at tnis
place was OF leghorn. with puffed
crown Of black velvet It's narrow brim
was caught at one side underneath a
velvet strap and two velvet buttons.
Scarfs are worn by everybody as pro-
tecting and lovely accessories for morn
ing or evening. Satin is perhaps the
d. fabric most generally used. but chiffon
and supple fur are gradually being
wound about the necks Of lovely women
when the cool air Of the country or
watering places claims a thought.
Crunwaldt. in the Rue de Ia Paix. IS
showing short fur coats that are differ
ent from last years models, but just as
conwncingly pretty They fall in loose
Xnes, are finger length" and have large,
rolling collars and huge ieweled buttons
On the full-length evening wraps Of
FUR soutache IS combined with jeWeled
buttons Motifs Of braid hold an any
slight fuIlness that occurs at the back or
sleeves.
Velvet for afternoon gowns viii be the
most favored material Either as plain
little dresses with a slightly high waist
line, trimmed with fringe. or as elabo-
rate suits that are reminiscent Of the
Louis styles. It IS equally effective.
Empire styles are exploited by the best
rnodistes. Deep cuns and revers, sashes.
buckles and buttons and all little touches
that are traceable to the French courts
are much in evidence.
Bechon- David have created a stir IN
che world OF fashion by their evening
gowns. Orange is the favorite color OF
this firm. It is introduced on many Of
che costumes in unusual ways. Broad
bands OF chiffon on white mousseline de
sole, huge plastrons OF silk embroidery
and plaques Of orange Opaque beads are
the effective methods.
Gold and silver scarfs over brown
chiffon and bordered with skunk fur are
shown. They must be considered with
regard 10 the evening gown. for In the
scarf lies much power 10 enhance the
beauty OF a costume. and no one knows
4 better than the Parisienne.
Blouses OF striped linen for wear with
che early fall suits are shown. They
have plain white linen jabots and col
lars, and the belts worn with them must
match the skirt.
Green promises TO be a fall color Blue.
cerise, black and white, with odd combi-
nations OF shades, attest to the fact that
it IS a colorful world IN which we live.
For children, models OF black and white
checked serge and cheviot are practi-
cal. These are frightened Up by touches
Of blue or red broadcloth or linen and
tiny brass buttons. A pleated skirt, with
quite q long-wa3sted blouse. is the most
accepted type OF simple frock.
Hats for the little ones are usually in
the bel shape cloche." we call it
while in the showing OF fall models
beaver predOminates. Simplicity is the
main note. Little cocardes OF metallic
ribbon OF cabochons OF gold and silver
cord are on the best shapes. ELOISE
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Misses Garments

" HESE are the same sizes. but not
the same cut or fashion, as the
- clothes for small women. The OBJ
tect is to meet the demands made by the
figures and style of young girls from "A
70 20.
For street wear there are smart tailor
made dresses IN serge, fancy mixtures
and panamas. Most OF these have the
peasant blouse, and one OF the many va
rieties Of the new straight. narrow skirt
Sailor collars are frequently seen. and
small yokes are also favorfte trimmings
Jabots or frills of chiffon. lace or silk
are likewise popular.
For afternoon messaline. satin. tafreta,
broadcloth, cashmere and velvet are all
IN favor. The usual trimmings are hand
embroidery. lace. braid and oriental ap-
piiques. Some of these afternoon frocks
have a collarless neck and three-Quarter
sleeves.
Dancing frocks for the young girl are
Of chiffon plain or bordered; net, mar
quisette or some other soft, sheer fabric.
All OF these are made over Innings OF
satin, meSSaline or silk. Nearly all silk
frocks are yelled to soften the effect.
These dancing frocks,. meant primarily
for the older girls. are nearly all made
decollete and with very short sleeves. A
few are gathered at the ankles. with
sashes to match the girdIes and the
color OF the dress.
Artificial flowers are often seen as
trimmings. Beads are also in the mode
in both white and colors. Most OF these
shades of pink. blue. green. Lavender and
yellow.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Fine Stripes

h HE latest French fashion is in
striped goods, fine stripes Of white
on pink or blue on green or black
on white. The str5Yes themselves are
used as trimming on morning and
tailored dresses by using the fabric
with the stripes running up and down
for the body of the frock. and horizon
tally for the. bodice trimming bands
and the wide skirtband
A little touch of black is usually in
troduced at the neck and sleeves In
the form OF satin piping. Sometimes
there is a little fall cravat of tinted
lace or of black velvet
Another combination Is the striped
fabric with the plain in the same shade.
the stripes being used either as the
oody OF the dress or as It's trimming.
Ints trimming usually takes the form
or yoke. oversleeves and wide skirtband.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Early Fall Suits

" HE new suits are to be largely
braid trimmed. Braid appears on
- the coat in collar, cuffs, revers
and pocket flaps. and on the skirt as
banding and tuck edging.
Embroidery. not so pronounced as to
be elaborate. Il being used on the suits
for dress occasions. It Is usually done
in self colors.
Velvet. satin and moire are some of
the new trimmings. and fancy buttons
are much used. especially when they are
OF the same material as the suit.
Collars. cuffs and revers are frequently
of plain or printed satin yelled with
chiffon, the climax of the fad for veil
ing. Fur is already seen, and 1t prom
tses TO be fur winter.
1t will soon be time to think about
that suit for fall. and the information
here given will guide you In your
choice OF fashionable garment
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
New Laces

"HE light and sheer laces are the
coming fashion Colored laees ara
u also to be popular. especially IN
colored figures on black. white ~, eol-
ored net Often the pattern Of +Ss. -,
Is tinted. and metal threads are CO...
bined with the color
The oriental tendency still Lasts -.
and silver being frequently seen1r9e,,, 5o,s
often than not, tndeed-with the Persis1
designs. Maine and chantiIly hold tIaiT
own. ana run laces are quite smart
Many or these fiat laces resernble rna
old and priceless patterns and are .{bs
more eagerly sought after on that 40
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Outing Hats

CNALlENT features of outing hats are
their sensible simplicity, their mod
- ish lines and their unusual mate
rails
Some are OF leather simply trimmed
with a band and a buckle. Suede.
patent leather and stitched kid are
among the newest models.
Tweed hats faced with chamois are
extremely attractive. A wing of cha
mos, cleverly made Of folds, would
deceive any casual onlooker. These
IoloS are In the crossed herringbone
underneath.
The use Of wings for trimming on
placed at one side and held in place
by eabochons of braid, heather, plaid
siikSor-wcoden= beads.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Glove Fashions
TN his is 70 be a white glove season.
Both long and short white gloves
Il VIII be very much worn


Owing 10 the dark colors OF even
dress costumes this fail, matched gloves
viii not be much in demand, but black
will be worn instead.
The short and three-ouarter-length
sleeves call for long gloves, and since
this style prevails in dress gowns, most
Of these long gloves will be of kid and
silk.
o. I.ambskin IS much in favor, also
capes, mochas and chamois, the last
81 mousouetaire. There Is always & de-
Jnand for silk and Isle for wear with
mufIs, but not much glace kid will be
seen except for evening wear.
Long gloves are no longer worn loose
and wrinkled, but are pulled up
smoothly and tightly. Twelve-button
lengths, therefore, are 70 be preferred
70 sixteen button
Pastel shades will be chiefly worn for
evening, but soft mode will be much in
favor for street dress wear also.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

wash and dental floss. put up IN
individual packages and all inclosed in
a rubber case.
Trays and mats. six, seven or eight
inches wide, made Of sponge rubber.
They are thin, flexible and washable,
and can be used on stone or metal
washstands-
A combination file. nail cleaner, cuti-
Gle pusher and buffer, made of bone
and inclosed in an imitation leather case,
and costing. complete. only 19 cents.
Tablets OF rouge, just large enough
and Of the right color for lip painting.
made In the form of cloth flower leaves,
and sold by the four-petaled flower"
TortoIse-shell manicure sets. with
handles all of the real shell, come at
$40 set or ss or "a apiece. Mother
of-pearl outfits sell for s2O
Clothes brushes with velvet backs,
shaped into the forms OF animals. the
illusion being helped out by beads for
the eyes and q few judicious en-
broidery stitches.
Hairbrushes with backs of ivory. the
brushes being OF the rubber air-cush
fon type. which. it is said ventilates
the hair In brushing and invigorates the
scalp.
A 'currycomb for the hair" a fat
piece Of leather Sx4 inches. with wire
teeth whose points are turned back
ward The scalp is massaged by comb. !.
ing with It.
Flexible scrapers for cleaning the
tongue-not very pleasant idea, but a
really valuable sanitary instrumental
for the small sum Of 10 cents
Etched art nouveau" bottles for per-
fume. each in it's velvet case and filled
with rose extract. which is the approved
perfume OF society this fall.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

FTI1R all line in belted coat that
Paris
successfully
confined belt dressmaker
the fashionable
nope ano promises of successful manipulation
chic time, practical mooel5
pe Stched the Jacket or leather passed
enIUusn slotS at distances around the waist line
the model with sailor collar there exploited
inevitable
touch black
Inc coat buttons of the collar and
black silk buttons loops
q o
eoge On the
stitched and piped
and black rough material is used for the suit that
suggests models Is
collar with broad the black inset
crossing side outlined with buttons codng
suede military
skirt
OF belt
oack and displaying silver buckles
ce
coa Flat
on the belt and side silver braid used for the tabs between
mp bias band the bottom
lines the
satin scarfs lined with
suggestion with Will
wit fur. = "
Last of all
OF old
ana point down The modified slightly
rose and gray soutache used to trim the sleeves
plain, in and falling in straight
70 the
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

A combination file. nail cleaner, cud-
Gle pusher and buffer. made Of bone
and inclosed In an imitation leather case.
and costing. complete. only 19 cents
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18
Toilet Novelties

N ENTAIL outfits, consisting OF tooth
brush, dental powder, mouth
wash and dental floss. put up IN
individual packages and all inclosed in
a rubber case.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

Trays and mats. six. seven or eight
inches wide, made Of sponge rubber.
They are thin, flexible and washable.
and can be used on stone or metal
waShstands
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

Tablets OF rouge. just large enough
and Of the right color for lip painting.
made In the form of cloth flower leaves.
and sold by the four-petaled flower"
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

ross ana gray soutache are used TO trim the Sleeves
plain, fastening in front and falling in straight
lines to the ground. -
For business wear or for inexpensive and prac-
teal afternoon suits these four present the latest
ideas. They being adopted by well dressed
women in Paris and sent to America with the
knowledge that they sensible.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

Tortolse-shell manicure sets, with
handles all of the real shell. come at
$40 set or 50 or "a apiece. Mother
of-pearl outfits sell for 500.
The San Francisco call., 1910-09-18

A T RUMPLEMEYER' there have
A been seen some Of the most at
4 \ tractive toilettes this last week
Afternoon dresses OF blue wolfe
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1910-01-08
WIFES SOLVES NEW WAY
TO GET HUSBAND HOME

A troublesome rodent nearly
caused a panic in the Manarch
home on south High street last
night. Mrs. Manarch was at home
while the man of the house was up
town Mrs. Manarch phoned to her
husband that a monster rat was in
the house and that his presence
was reqpired TO put the nervy ami
cal out Paul marched homeward
with umbrella in hand, with a de-
termination to slay the rat. After
locating the beast, Mr. Manarch
made vicious stab at him with his
fiye dollar umbrella and the rat
stepping nimbly aside, shot out Of
doors, while the would-be slayer's
shower stick was twisted into use
less shape by being jabbed into the
wall casing. The rat escaped being
punctured with the umbrella, but the
matador did not mind so as he
freed his home of pests,
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1910-01-08
BOOSTER
FACTS OF
PRODUCTION
Great Development Campaign
Bringing Results as to
Crops of 1909.

The Capital Journals campaign
for facts with which to advertise
Oregon in 1910 is bearing fruit
see statements of producers below.
Can't you help us get some of these
facts to advertise your neighborhood
in this great movement to fill Ore
gon with people.
Statements of Fact.
| have raised off one acre of pota-
toes this year. 1909, $50 bushels
which brought me $156.5O.-Wil-
liam Held, George, oregon.
Sold from eight cows, three OF
them two-year-olds, during the
months of November and December,
1909, cream worth $1S7, 7,02.-John
B. Soy, Buena Vista, Ore.
| We sold 5000 worth of potatoes
from five acres, at $1.65 per 100 lbs.
| We have a large prune orchard.
/ trees IA years old, which brings
800 per acre. 1t is also fine apple
and and good for stock of any kind.
j. r. Bailey, Buxton, Washington
County, Ore.
From 16 acres we sold 81 900
worth of loganberries in 1909. This
was only one-fourth of a crop ow-
lllR W lIOSlSs - EAnuiAA W al IL C1't
Brooks.
In 1908 cut 67 tons clover hay
from IN acres irrigated land. In
1909 cut 55 tons of claver hay from
Z u acres irrigated land. Irrigated
morning before seven O'Clock and
after six o'clock at practically no
cost.-W. H. Bagley, Forest Grove,
Route 2.
1 keep six COWS, mostly grade Jer-
seys. They average us $40 each per
year.--F. G. McLench, Polk County.
My observations as to raising po-
tatoes leads me to believe the Will
lamette Valley potatoes excel the
famous Greeley and Fort Collins
product, both in superior flavor,
SIZE and larger yield, and I lived in
the Coorado district over five years.
w. H. Paine, Salem.
Eighty Mammoth Black Twig
apple trees produced IT'S boxes, sold
at Butteville for $1.00 per box, re-
J tanning forty boxes for my own use.
A. j. Stevenson, Butteville.
See if you cannot help our cam
paign by sending us more facts like
the above to help along the adver-
tisement of the resources of our
state in a practical manner.
! Lebanon express report of Annual
Business Mems banquet New Years
Eve:-Hon. e. Hofer was the first
to address the audience. 1t is we'll
known that Colonel Hofer is an en-
thusiastic Oregonian; that to him
there is no place equal to the Beav-
er state-unless it be heaven-and
he has not had glimpse of the lat
ter place, some of his friends are
suspicious, lest he might waver in
his choice should the occasion arise
Mr.. Hofer gave a brief review of the
wondrous progress made by this
state and what is expected in thC
near future.